CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
Cornell University Library 
 DT 361.P48 1891 
 
 New light on dark Africa: 
 
 3 1924 028 752 750 .......i 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this bool< is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028752750 
 
NEW LIGHT ON DAEK AFRICA. 
 
 DR. CARL PETERS. 
 

 Di" E Altept i C9 lictogp 
 
New Light on Dark Africa: 
 
 BEING THE NARRATIVE OF 
 
 TLbc (Berman jemin jpasba lEypeMtion, 
 
 ITS JOURNEYINGS AND ADVENTURES AMONG THE NATIVE TRIBES 
 
 OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, THE GALLAS, MASSAIS, 
 
 WASUKUMA, ETC., ETC.^ ON THE LAKE BARINGO 
 
 AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA. 
 
 RELATED BY 
 
 DR. CARL PETERS, 
 
 THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY 
 
 H. W. DULCKEN, Ph.D. 
 
 WITH THIRTY-TWO PAGE ENGRAVINGS AND SIXTY-FIVE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DESIGNS BY 
 
 RUDOLF HELLGREWE, AND A LARGE EXPLANATORY COLOURED MAP, REPRESENTING 
 
 THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION FROM DAY TO DAY. 
 
 WARD, LOCK, AND Co., 
 
 LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE. 
 1891. 
 
 {All Rights Reserved.] 
 5 
 
Printed by Hazell, Watson, &' Finey, Ld., London and Aylesbury. 
 
AUTHOR'S PHEFACE. 
 
 "TN the following representation of the German Emin 
 -L Pasha Expedition I have to give as clear a picture 
 as possible of the outward course and of the inward con- 
 nection of the German enterprise undertaken for the purpose 
 of aiding Emin Pasha to maintain his position on the Upper 
 Nile. The narrative, written down immediately after the 
 conclusion of the expedition, is based upon our memoranda 
 and upon reports received on the spot, and may accordingly 
 also in its subjective sense claim to possess the value of 
 truthful instantaneous photographic representations. Upon 
 the correctness of the views expressed on separate points 
 there will be disputes ; but I shall consider my task in the 
 following book as fulfilled if, allowing for this diversity of 
 opinion, I have succeeded in enabling the reader to form an 
 accurate and a clear conception of the external and the in- 
 ward course of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. 
 
 Such being my endeavour, I am scarcely called upon to 
 offer an apology for beginning the narrative of the undertaking 
 with the enterprise itself, instead of giving a detailed prelimi- 
 nary history, reaching back, if possible, to the times of the 
 Pharaohs. I take it for granted that the reader of this book, 
 when he takes it into his hand, just wants to know what 
 was the course of our expedition, and will be glad to dispense 
 with details which he will find in a better and more connected 
 
vi AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 form in other books, and which are not at all necessary for 
 the comprehension of the following narrative. 
 
 Now that I am giving to the public this history of the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition, I am obeying an impulse 
 of my heart in once more expressing my thanks to those 
 to whose co-operation it must be attributed that the under- 
 taking ended in the manner described in the following 
 pages, and that it did not collapse at the very beginning, 
 or come to a tragic conclusion on the continent of Africa, 
 as it often appeared about to do. In this place I publicly 
 offer my thanks to the men who, in the German Emin 
 Pasha Committee, backed and supported the undertaking 
 at home, and to the high-hearted subscribers who, by their 
 liberal and ready assistance, enabled our expedition to be 
 realised. I also thank my comrades in the expedition 
 yonder, among whom Herr von Tiedemann was my constant 
 and faithful companion, while Herr Oskar Borchert proved, by 
 his journey up the Tana, that he was imbued with the spirit 
 which alone can achieve the right result in such affairs. 
 
 But after all, even with such support, I should not 
 have been in a position to write a description of the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition had not a higher Hand 
 manifestly led us, through all hindrances and dangers, 
 back to our native land. In all humility we have to offer 
 thanks to Providence that it has been vouchsafed to us 
 to return home in safety from the elevated plateaus of 
 Leikipia and from the incalculable entanglements in the 
 countries on Lake Victoria. 
 
 CARL PETERS. 
 
 Essen, "Auf dem Hugel," 
 February 1st, 1891. 
 
PEEFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. 
 
 THE book here offered to the English public, in a form which 
 every effort has been made to render an attractive one, 
 has already, in its original German garb, been received with 
 emphatic appreciation and general approval by a large number 
 of readers. Accordingly, the publishers consider themselves 
 justified in looking confidently forward to an equal measure of 
 success for this, the English edition of Dr. Peters's valuable 
 and interesting work. 
 
 The question of the opening up of Dark Africa, with its 
 vast prospects for trade, commerce, and agriculture, and still 
 more important capabilities for the diffusion of Christianity and 
 the spread of civilisation, is coming more and more to the front, 
 and occupies a continually increasing amount of public atten- 
 tion. The natural desire for information on this great and 
 important subject has been increased and stimulated by the 
 works on the African continent, that have lately appeared from 
 the pens of eminent travellers and explorers ; the more so, per- 
 haps, from the wide divergences in the views and the methods 
 of action advocated by the various authors. 
 
 It has always been the custom in England, " according to 
 the fair play of the world," to give an impartial hearing to the 
 different statements put forward by those whose experience 
 and labours entitle them to speak on an important subject. 
 Englishmen like to know what each man has to say, rather 
 than giA'e their unhesitating adhesion to the perhaps dogmatic 
 views of any one writer. " In a multitude of counsellors there is 
 wisdom ; " — -and nowhere more than on the question of carrying 
 
viii PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. 
 
 forward the banner of culture and Christianity into regions now 
 desert, but where, in future ages, civilisation's lofty scenes shall — 
 
 " Be acted over, 
 In states unborn, and accents yet unknown." 
 
 Among those writers who have earned an incontrovertible 
 right to be listened to with respect, Dr. Carl Peters undoubtedly 
 stands in the first rank. That he has, in the fullest sense of the 
 term, thrown " New Light " upon Dark Africa, no unprejudiced 
 and impartial reader of his work will for a moment be disposed 
 to doubt. Fearlessly, and with a transparent honesty of inten- 
 tion which will especially commend itself to English sympathies, 
 he claims for his country a share in the great work of the 
 civilisation of Africa ; criticises his competitors with outspoken 
 frankness, without withholding from them his meed of admira- 
 tion ; protests boldly where he considers himself hardly dealt 
 with ; points out what he considers to have been errors in judg- 
 ment and action, and gives his reasons in every case. He has 
 the courage of his opinions, and his trumpet gives no uncertain 
 sound ; but while he frankly dispenses praise and blame, he tells 
 his own story with an equally plain straightforwardness, and an 
 absence alike of self-laudation and self-depreciation singularly 
 graceful in a man who has passed through great perils, and 
 achieved very remarkable results, with very moderate means. 
 
 Mr. Stanley, in a passage in his "Darkest Africa'' (Vol. II., 
 p. 406), says: "It is to be the destiny of the Germans to carry 
 out this work " (the civilisation of Ugogo), " and," he adds, " I 
 envy them." The leader of the enterprise here recorded under- 
 took it in this spirit. No man more completely dedicated himself 
 to a great task, or carried it out with more persistent devotion 
 and daring ; and in every page the reader will see vindicated 
 the soundness of the judgment that placed Dr. Carl Peters in 
 authority as the head of a most important national undertaking. 
 
 Various fallacies dissipated, a fund of useful information 
 gained, and the ground prepared for future work and progress in 
 Africa, may justly be chronicled as constituting the triumphant 
 results of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. 
 
 H. W. D. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 IN GERMANY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 First Ideas of an Expedition. — Stanley's Departure for Africa. — Steps 
 towards a German Expedition. — Managing Committee Appointed. 
 — Amountof Money Required. — Dr. Peters Appointed Commander. 
 — Arrangements with Lieutenant Wissmann. — State of Eastern 
 Africa. — Encouragement from Prince Bismarck. — Proposed Tana 
 Route. — Rumours concerning Emin Pasha. — Communication from 
 Count Herbert von Bismarck. — The Expedition to Start under 
 Dr. Peters. — Choosing Officers. — Doubts and Difficulties in 
 Prospect ........... 1 — 18 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 IN ZANZIBAR AND THE BLOCKABED TERRITORY. 
 
 Insurrectionary Districts to be Avoided. — Supply of Soldiers and 
 Porters. — Shipping Arms. — In Aden. — Commencement of Diffi- 
 culties. — Prohibitions and Restrictions. — Landing at Merka 
 Abandoned. — Vexatious Proceedings and Useless EffiDrts in Zan- 
 zibar. — Threats of the Sultan. — The Neoera Chartered. — Confisca- 
 tion of Weapons. — Report to the Committee. — By Steamer to 
 Bagamoyo. — Departure of Herr Bley. — Conference with Admiral 
 Fremantle. — Authority from the Committee. — Departure for 
 Dar-es-Salam. — The Voyage. — Alarm of Eire. — Scarcity of Water. 
 — Danger of Shipwreck. — Arrival at Kwaihu Bay. — At Pasa. — 
 Embarkation of Recruits. — Proceedings of Admiral Eremantle. — 
 Ifavigation in Dhows. — Siyu Canal. — Passage to Shimbye. — 
 Arrival in Witu 19—45 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 IN THE SULTANATE OF WITU. 
 
 Success of the Commander's Plan. — Delay and Doings at Shimbye.— 
 Report to Germany. — Visit to Wanga. — Exaggerated Reports. — 
 A Hurried Departure. — H.B.M.S. Boadicea and the Blockade. — 
 
X COXTKXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Landing of the Expedition at Mgine. — Eendezvous at Hindi. — 
 The ^^eoera Brought to Book.—" Where is Dr. Peters ? "—Diplo- 
 matic Correspondence with Admiral Fremantle. — Letter Received 
 from Herr Borchert. — The Neoera Seized and Taken to Zanzibar. 
 — The Consequent " Nemra Lawsuit." — Difficulty of Procuring 
 Porters. — Division of the Expedition. — Porterage. — Disciplining 
 the Company. — Manners of the Natives. — Character of the 
 Somalis. — Troubles of the Rainy Season. — The Start from Hindi. 
 — Unruliness of the Porters. — Missing Loads and Deserting 
 Bearers. — New E,ecruits. — System of Rewards and Punishments, 
 Rules, etc. — Camp at Mansamarabu.— Our March to Witu. — The 
 Scenery, etc. — Swamp and Forest. — The Plain. — Sultan Fumo 
 Bukari. — Statistics of Witu. — Grand Reception. — Report to the 
 Committee. — Negotiations.- — The Somalis. — Sheriff Hussein. — 
 Preparations for Departure. — Prosperous Condition of the Column. 
 — Departure for Engatana . . . . . . 46 — 76 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 VP THE TAXA TO THE GALLAS. 
 
 The First Day's March. — Encampment in the Valley. — Buana Shamo 
 Promises a Guide. — Poetry of Camp Life. — Start for Ngao. — 
 Aspect of the Country. — Search for Water. — Camping in the 
 Wapokomo Quarters. — AiTival at the Tana. — German Missionary 
 Station at Ngao. — Scarcity of Food. — Discontent in the Column. 
 — Ants and Mosquitoes. — " Shauri " with the Porters. — Deser- 
 tions. — The Missionary Wiirz. — Departure from Ngao. — The 
 Boats at Marfano. — Disappointment and Discouragement. — The 
 Monsoon. — Dr. Peters's Illness. — His Letter to his Friend Hof- 
 mann. — ^On the Banks of the Tana.- — Supplies from Witu. — 
 Untrustworthy Somali Messengers. — Rumours of the English 
 Expedition. — Hussein's Diplomatic Proposal. — Smith's English 
 Expedition. — Camp at Engatana. — Hamiri's Failure. — Missionary 
 Heddenstrom. — Dangers at Mitole. — Parting from the Wapokomo. 
 —Scenery of the Tana. — The Steppe.— Animal Life.— Climate. 
 — A Cheerful March. — Complaints of the Elders. — Hamiri's 
 Eloquence. — Hiring Boatmen.— Foreign Hostility. — Departure 
 by Boats from Muina.— Good News.— Supplies. — Passage of the 
 Tana.— Arab Treachery. — Nderani. — Miaus. — Characteristics of 
 the Wapokomo. — Interview with the Sultan Suakini.— German 
 Flag at Malalulu.—Massa.— Wapokomo Festival. — The Galla 
 Regions. — Kidori. — Nature of the Mboni. — Hamiri and Pembo 
 moto.— Traces of the EngHsh Expedition.— Sources of the Tana. 
 ^Scarcity.— Triumphal March to Oda-Boru-Ruva . 77-123 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 WITH THE GALLAS IN ODA-BORU-EUVA. 
 
 Scouts Sent Across the Eiver. — On the Tana. — Sultan of Gallas.— The 
 Gallas.— The Wapokomo. — The Suaheli of the Tana.— Character- 
 istics of the Gallas. — Negotiations with the Sultan. — Waiting for 
 the Second Column. — Sultan Hugo's Concessions. — Mr. Pigott's 
 Expedition.— Mr. Smith's Expedition.— Consultation with Sultan 
 Hugo. — Explanation on Both Sides. — Treaty Between the 
 Sultan and Dr. Peters. — Illness of Herr von Tiedemann. — Sojourn 
 Among the Gallas.— Von der Heydt House.— Bad Conduct of the 
 Gallas. — Alarming Reports. — Defeat of the Gallas. — Hostages. — 
 Grain Stores Seized. — Hostile Somali.— Gall-Galla's Cunning. — 
 Sultan Gallo. — His Deposition. — Sadeh made Sultan. —The 
 Treaty. — Waiting for Bust's Column. — Difficulties. — Instructions 
 to Lieutenant- Captain Rust. — Proposed Route of Dr. Peters. — 
 Discretion Allowed. — Decision to Cross the Steppe . . .124-151 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 OR THE UPPER TANA TO KIKUYU. 
 
 Exceptional Character of the Expedition. — Delays of the Gallas. — 
 Grain Wanted. — Stragglers. — Galamba. — The Women and Chil- 
 dren to be sent Back. — The Fugitives on the River. — Yembamba's 
 Doleful Narrative. — Course of the Tana. — Its Islands. — Tana 
 Settlements. — Glorious Hameje. — The Lion's Visit. — Cataracts of 
 the Tana. — Hofmann Falls. — Branches. — Tiedemann's Hill. — 
 Emperor William II. Mountains. — Boat Voyage. — Kiapf's Con- 
 jectures Concerning the Tana. — Great Volcanic Elevated Plateau. 
 — Jibije and Mountain Range. — The Wandorobbo Tribe. — Pro- 
 jected Route. — Embassy to the Wandorobbo. — Tokens of Ap- 
 proaching Strife. — Insolent Demands. — Negotiations. — A Bad 
 Bargain. — Order of March. — Nogola's Misbehaviour and Punish- 
 ment. — Attack with Poisoned Arrows. — Explorations on the 
 Tana. — A Dangerous Position and Timely Rescue. — Somalis and 
 " Strayed " Cattle. — The Tana : Question of Fords. — Barakka's 
 Accident. — The Forest and its Animals. — The Kiloluma Fall. — 
 Wakamba. — The Wadsagga and their Country. — Krupp's Moun- 
 tain. — Marongo and his Demands. — War with the Wadsagga. — 
 Their Punishment. — Tree Warriors. — Difficulties of the Mountain 
 March. — Excited Somalis. — A Resolute Policy maintained. — Herr 
 von Tiedemann's Position. — How to Cross the Tana. — The Raft 
 and the Rope. — Building the Bridge. — Difficulties and Failure. — 
 
XI 1 CONTEXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Augusta Victoria Fall. — Hunting Incidents, etc. — The Carl 
 Alexander Cataract. — Schweinfvirth Fall and Krapf Hill. — 
 Steppe of Ukumba Kitui. — Passage of the Dika. — The Tana Con- 
 quered. — The Kenia Mountain. — The Friendly Wakikuyu. — 
 Passage of the Marawa. — Solemn Entry into Konse . . 152 — 212 
 
 CHAPTER VII, 
 
 THROUGH THE MASSAIS, OVER THE LEIEIPIA PLATEAU TO 
 THE BARINGO LAKE. 
 
 Stay at Kikuyu. — The Thievish Wakikuyu. — March through the 
 Kikuyu Country. — Treacherous Customs of the Country. — Region 
 of the Guaso Nyiro. — Mountain Region.^ — The Leikipia Plateau. 
 — The Kenia Peak. — Guaso Nyiro River. — Question of Water 
 Supply. — The Gretchen-Thal. — Plan of the Expedition. — The 
 Massais and their Characteristics. — Nomadic Herdsmen. — Their 
 Warlike Propensities. — The Elmord,n, or Warrior Massais. — Their 
 Equipment, Customs, etc. — The Gnare Gobit. — Meeting with 
 Massai Warriors. — The Chief Kradl of Elbejet. — Rukua, our In- 
 terpreter. — Insolence of the Natives. — Hostile Demonstrations. — 
 Attack on Elbejet. — Attack by the Elmoran. — Battle with the 
 Massais. — Burning of Elbejet. — Orders for an Advance. — Rout 
 of the Massais. — Precautions against Surprise. — Opportune 
 Eclipse. — A Disturbed Christmas Eve. — The March Resumed. — 
 Peace Proposals and Treaty. — The Dongo Gelesha Range. — Teleki 
 Rock. — Hostile Massais. — Joyful Meeting with Herr von Tiede- 
 mann. — Difficult March. — The Guaso Narok. — ^Thomson's Route. 
 — Desertion of Porters. — -Water Found. — ^A New Year. — Talk 
 with the Wandorobbo. — The Guaso Tien River. — Lake Baringo 
 and its Surroundings. — Crossing the Guaso na Nyuki. — Arrival 
 at Njemps 213—269 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FROM THE BARINGO TO THE VICTORIA NY AN Z A TERRITORY. 
 
 Ways and Means. — Herr von Tiedemann's Illness. — Massai Agri- 
 culture. — The Wakuafi, or Dealers. — ^Report to the Committee. — 
 Communication with Oda-Boru-Ruva. — Treaty with the Wa- 
 kuafi. — Mr. de Winton's and Other Expeditions. — Arrangements 
 for our Advance towards the West.— The Kamasia Plateau. — 
 Pemba Motu and the Wakamasia. — Land of Elgejo. — Demonstra- 
 tions of the Natives. — Conversation with Arabs. — Report on 
 Kawirondo.— Candle Manufacture.— Death of the Somali Achmed. 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 —People of Elgejc— Xirobani, the Guide.— A Carnivorous Camel. 
 — Elgejo Guides. — Fight with the Waelgeio.— Easy Victory.— 
 March to the Angata na Nyuki. — Grand Solitude of Nature.— 
 Violent Tropical Thunderstorms. — ^A Dream and an Imaginary 
 Conversation.— Wild Cattle.— Route to Kabaras.— News of White 
 Men. — A Letter to a Possible European. — The Kawirondo People. 
 —Mr. Thomson's Opinions.— A Land of Plenty.— Conversation 
 
 with the Sultan's Messengers. — The Sakwa's Possessions. Town 
 
 of Sakwa. — Porters from English Expedition. — Arrival of All 
 
 Somal. — Accounts of Emin Pasha. — Bewildering News. The 
 
 Sultan's Proposal. — Report on the Wasoga and Waganda. — 
 Sakwa's Politeness. — Triumph over the Mangati. — Treaty with 
 Sultan Sakwa. — Explanatory Letter. — Advance to Kwa Sundu. 
 
 270—311 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ADVANCE UPON UNJORO AND DEVIATION TO UGANDA, TO 
 ASSIST THE CHRISTIAN PARTY. 
 
 Visit from the Sultan and Chiefs. — Mr. Mackay's Despatch. — Muanga, 
 Son of Mtesa. — His Rebellion against Karema, King of Uganda. 
 — Mr. Stokes's Enterprise. — Expected British East African Ex- 
 pedition. — Proposal to Emin Pasha. — Political Missionary Inter- 
 ference. — Mr. Jackson's Proceedings. — Letter of Pere Lourdel. — 
 Conversation with the Wasoga Men. — Kiswahili and Kisogo 
 Languages. — The Sultan's Information respecting Unjoro. — 
 Guides Required for Journey to Kwa Telessa. — ^Ali Somal's Dis- 
 suasions. — Hussein's Report. — Dr. Peters's Speech to the Somalis. 
 — Result of the Conference, or Shauri. — Crossing the River 
 Nsoia. — The Country of Kwa Tindi. — Messenger from Sultan 
 Tindi. — Attack on the Kraal by Robbers. — Particulars Concern- 
 ing the Country. — March through the " Junker Range." — To 
 Kwa Tunga and Kwa Telessa. — ^White Men in Wanjoro. — Con- 
 jectures Concerning Emin. — Dr. Peters's Letter. — The Wissmann 
 HUls. — A Mysterious Visitor. — Marco and Talabanga. — Proposal 
 to Visit Unjoro. — Stanley's Camp. — Stanley's Refusal to go to 
 Uganda. — Letter to Monseigneur Livinhac. — Offer to Muanga.— 
 Life in Usoga. — Particulars. — The Napoleon Gulf. — The Banana. 
 — The Wasoga. — The Sultans and their Power. — The Wachore and 
 their Jovial Sultan. — His Visit. — Kamanyiro Kanta's Career. — 
 Return Visit to Wachore. — Report from H. M. Stanley. — Up, to 
 Uganda ! — Pleasant Journey towards Usoga. — Kamanyiro's One- 
 eyed Men. — Murder of Bishop Hannington. — Welcome from 
 Christian Waganda. — Passage Across the NUe. — Ripon Palls. — 
 First Encampment iu Uganda. — A Dangerous Enterprise . 312 — 367 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 IN UGANDA. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fatal Accident to Eukua. — -Letter from King Muanga. — Declaration 
 of Kamanyiro Kanta. — March in Military State. — Dismissal of 
 Kamanyiro. — Letter to Mr. Gordon the Missionary. — A Gloomy 
 March Through a Desolate Region. — Message from King Muanga. 
 Entry into Mengo, the Capital. — Audience of the King, — Muanga's 
 Friendliness. — Pfere Lourdel's Ideas. — Dr. Peters's Advice. — Visit 
 of the Katikiro. — At the French Mission. — Thoroughness of the 
 Catholic Mission Stations. — Mechanical Ingenuity. — King 
 Muanga's Palace. — Private Interview with the King. — Impor- 
 tant Treaty Proposed and Signed. — Trade of Uganda. — Extensive 
 Traffic with Usukuma. — Objections of Gordon and Walker. — 
 Freedom of Residence for White Men. — Muanga's Plain Declara- 
 tion. — Explanatory Letter to Mons. Lourdel. — Letter to Herr 
 Arendt. — Letter to the Englishmen in Kawirondo. — Monseigneur 
 Livinhac. — The Slave Trade. — Prospects of the Supremacy of 
 Christianity. — Monseigneur Livinhac's Opinion.^The Waganda, 
 their Great Abilities. — Their Customs. — Music, Architecture, etc. 
 — Their Cruelty. — ^Advantages of Climate and Soil. — Origin of the 
 Waganda. — The Beyma People.— Comparison of Languages. — 
 Ancient Records. — The Mountains of the Moon. — Ancient Maps. 
 Royal Tombs at Mengo. — Arab Account of Ancient Egypt. — 
 Gumr and El Gumi. — Cave Dwellings. — Thomson's Account of 
 them. — Historic Traditions and Unproved Theories. — The Kati- 
 kiro, and Difficulties in Uganda. — Mr. Jackson's Letter. — Dispute 
 between Muanga and the Katikiro. — Muanga's Message to 
 Europe. — Collecting the Forces. — Defiance to Karema. — Mr. 
 Walker's Yisit. — Gabriel's Letter. — The Land of Bulingogwe. — 
 Brilliant Expectations .... ... 368 438 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 ROUND VICTORIA NY AN Z A TO USUKUMA. 
 
 Mons. Lourdel in Bulingogwe.— Particulars of Mr. Stanley and Emin 
 
 Pasha. — Sir William Mackinnon's Plan. — Arrival of Nugula. 
 
 Dilatory Boatmen.— Mons. Lourdel's Energetic Measure.— Its 
 Fatal Consequences.— View on Lake Victoria.— The Sesse Islands. 
 —Arrival at Mfoh.— Great Thunderstorm.— Letter from the 
 Katikiro, and Reply.— Sesse Songs.— Starting Afresh for Sesse. 
 —The French Mission.— Meeting with Herr von Tiedemann.— The 
 
COXTENTS. XV 
 
 French Station Civilised Life. — Mr. Mackay and Monseigneur 
 Livinhac. — Sunday at the French Station — ^Arrival of the Boats. 
 — Eesumption of the Journey. — French Missionary Boats. — 
 Interchange of News. — Flat Shores of Lake Victoria. — Village of ■ 
 Boats. — Dumo. — Sango. — The Eiver Kagera. — Conference with -• 
 the Chiefs in Tabaliro. — Warning to the Wasiba. — Their Reply. 
 — Letter from P6re Lourdel. — Collection of Tribute. — Letter 
 from Monseigneur Livinhac — Departure from Tabaliro. — Voyage 
 Along the Coast to Busiba.— Island of Bukerebe. — The Sultan's 
 Submission. — Easter Sunday. — Island of Bumbide. — Friendly 
 Natives. — Towards Soswa — Volcanic Region of Lake Victoria. 
 — Soswa Islands. — Arrival of Boats. — Encampment in Bande- 
 lundo and Kuru. — Catholic Mission of Nyagesi. — A Banquet. — 
 News from Europe. — Condition of Massailand. — Prospects of 
 Opening up Africa. — Means to be Adopted. — Principles of Chris- 
 tianity and Freedom. — Idea of a New Expedition. — Results 
 Already Achieved. — A Prosperous Region. — Removal to Xlkumbi. 
 — Round through Usukuma. — Welcome by Monseigneur 
 Hirth. . . 439—482 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 FBOM LAKE VICTORIA TOWARDS HOME. 
 
 The Mission Station of Nyagesi. — Its Occupants. — Dry Season in 
 Usukuma. — Good Qualities of the Wasukuma. — Flight of the 
 Arabs. — Life of the Expedition in Ukumbi. — Luxuries of Civili- 
 c-ation. — Religious Services. — Musa Devoured by a Crocodile. — 
 Lion Hunt. — " Walpurgis Night " Watch. — lUness of Dr. Peters 
 and Herr von Tiedemann. — Departure from Ukumbi. — Probable 
 Future Importance of the Wasukuma. — Encampment at Kabila. 
 — The Difficult River. — Fording the Stream.- — The Nera Country. 
 — ^Tactics of the Wasekke. — The African Character. — Crossing 
 the Wami. — Mr. Stokes's Business Activity. — Trade in Africa. — 
 Caravan Routes. — Opening up a New Road. — Settlement of 
 Busiba. — Keletesa's Cordiality. — March through Thicket and 
 Scrub. — The River Sanguke. — Crossing the Wembaere. — Through 
 the Wilderness. — People of Iramba. — Sultan Kilioma. — The 
 Peaceable Iramba People. — ^Iramba Plateau. — An Unladylike 
 Sultana. — Importance of Usure. — Illness, Rest, and Travelling. — 
 District of Uweri-weri. — In Kabaragas. — District of Ugogo. — The 
 Arab Mohammed Bin Omari. — Achievements of the Badutschi. — 
 The Kilima Tindi Ridge. — ^The Wagogo People. — Makenge and 
 Mr. Stanley. — Lesson to the Wagogo. — Demand for Tribute. — 
 War with the Wagogo. — Burning of Wagogo Villages. — Arrival 
 
cox TEXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 of the Wanjamwesi. — Wagogo Cattle Seized. — ilakenge's Sub- 
 mission. — Wanjamwesi Caravan. — Mohammed Bin Omari's 
 Caravan. — Circuit Round the Lindi Mountains. — A Caravan 
 under the German FJag. — Tidings of Emin Pasha. — Kwam 
 Yagallo. — The Marenga Mkali Country. — To Mpuapua. — Meeting 
 with Emin Pasha. — Consultations with Emin. — Criticism of 
 Stanley's Proceedings. — Emin's Position on the Upper Nile. — 
 Discrepancy between Accounts. — Emin's Estimate of Stanley. — 
 Character of Emin Pasha. — Parting from Emin. — Arrival at 
 Usagara. — The Arabs of Mkondogna. — Stay at Loanga. — March 
 to Bagamoyo. — News from Europe. — Crossing to Zanzibar. — To 
 Italy and Germany. — A Few Words with Admiral Fremantle 483 — 560 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Supplement I. — The German Emin Pasha Committee . . 561 
 
 Supplement II. — Relations with Admiral Fremantle and the British 
 
 Blockade .566 
 
 Supplement III. — The jVeoera Lawsuit ...... 574 
 
 Supplement IV. — The Fate of the Second Column .... 578 
 
 Supplement V. — The Uganda Treaty ...... 585 
 
LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Portrait of Dr. Carl Peters 
 
 Attempt to Land at Merka 
 
 Transfer of the Necera's Freight to the Dhows 
 
 Camp in Mansamarabu . 
 
 Reception of the Somali-Kawallala 
 
 View on the Tana 
 
 On the March .... 
 
 Flotilla of the Expedition on the Tana 
 
 Fight with the Gallas . 
 
 The Hofmann Falls 
 
 View on the Emperor William II. Mountains 
 
 Negotiation with the Wandorobbo 
 
 In the Mumoni Mountains 
 
 The Augusta Victoria Falls 
 
 The Karl Alexander Falls 
 
 The Kenia 
 
 Elmordn Warriors advancing to the Attack 
 
 Attack on Elbe jet 
 
 Attack on the Masaais at Gnare Gobit 
 
 Christmas Eve at Guaso Nyiro 
 
 The Teleki Rocks 
 
 By Lake Baringo 
 
 Encounter with the Waelgejo 
 
 In Camp before Kabaras 
 
 Passage of the Nile 
 
 Triumphal Entry into Uganda 
 
 Reception by Muanga 
 
 On Lake Victoria 
 
 " How, Dr. Peters ? — You are not dead ? " 
 
 Camp in Usukuma 
 
 In Usukuma 
 
 The Wagogo Attacked and Defeated 
 
 The Meeting with Emin Pasha. 
 
 . Frontispiece 
 To face page 25 
 
 » „ 40 
 
 !i II 63 
 
 I, ,, 71 
 
 ,, „ 101 
 
 „ ,1 121 
 
 „ „ 133 
 
 „ „ 141 
 
 ,, J, loy 
 
 „ II 161 
 
 II II 168 
 
 „ ,1 191 
 
 „ „ 201 
 
 II „ 205 
 
 „ ,1 219 
 
 II II 227 
 
 ,1 ,1 236 
 
 II II 238 
 
 ,1 II 246 
 
 II ,1 252 
 
 ,, II 267 
 
 II I, 289 
 
 II I, 296 
 
 II 11 366 
 
 11 II 372 
 
 ,, ,, o7y 
 
 II II 445 
 
 II 456 
 
 ,1 II 477 
 
 11 „ 485 
 
 II II ^^o 
 
 „ „ 536 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. 
 
 The German Emin Pasha Committee . 
 
 Portraits of Rudolf von Bennigsen and Dr. George Irmer 
 
 Portrait of Lieutenant-Captain Rust . 
 
 Portrait of Herr von Tiedemann 
 
 Portrait of Oskar Borchert 
 
 PAGE 
 
 9 
 11 
 20 
 
 21 
 22 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Portrait of Fritz Bley . 
 The Neosra running out from Dar-es-Salam 
 " Is Kwaihu Peak in Sight ? " . 
 Landing in Shimbye 
 Loading the Camels 
 Instructing the Somalis 
 Rukua, First Servant to Dr. Peters 
 Hamiri's Illustration 
 Crossing the Tana at Mbuji 
 On the Tana 
 
 Tana Landscape, near Oda-Boru-Euva 
 Von der Heydt House . 
 The Von der Heydt Islands 
 The " Devil's Field " . 
 Wadsagga 
 
 Building the Bridge across the Tana 
 Hunting the Rhinoceros . 
 Fording the Dika 
 Hut of the Wakikuyu . 
 Annoyed by Bulls 
 Peace Proposals from the Massais 
 The Wakamasia demand Tribute 
 Wakawirondo 
 
 Hussein, Leader of the Somalis 
 Shauri with the Somali Soldiers 
 Mount Sohrceder and Arendt Bay 
 Dr. Peters Reads Stanley's Letter 
 A Missionary at the Plough 
 Monseigneur Livinhac .... 
 Musical Instruments of the Waganda . 
 Household Utensils of the Waganda . 
 Monseigneur Livinhac blessing his Pupils 
 Wasiba of the Island of Tabaliro 
 Voyage Along the Coast of Busiba 
 • Usukuma Woman Preparing Corn 
 Wasukuma . . . . 
 
 Mission House in Ukumbi 
 
 The Chief Porter, Musa, Killed by a Crocodile 
 Animal Life in the Desert 
 An Usukuma Dandy 
 View of the Plain of Ugogo near Mtive 
 Destruction of the Wagogo Villages 
 Usagara Landscape .... 
 
 34 
 37 
 43 
 60 
 76 
 80 
 103 
 108 
 118 
 128 
 138 
 157 
 164 
 183, 184 
 199 
 204 
 208 
 215 
 232 
 249 
 281 
 298, 299 
 
CHAPTER 
 
 IN GEiuiAyr. 
 
 " ThiDkcst thnu, jicTcliance. 
 That I mj' life should hate, 
 And to the desert flee. 
 For that not erery 
 Blossom-dream hath ripened;.' ' 
 
 n^HE idea ol' carrying help to 
 -L Emin Pasha, on his post at 
 Waclelai, M-as alreacl_v mooted in 
 the spring oi' 1886, by Professor 
 SchAveinfurth, who was at that 
 time still residing at Cairo. 
 Schweinfiirth in those days wrote 
 
 ^^i^mt^^i^Mi^S'-ij 
 
 ■:- Kaii.., 
 
2 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 me a series of letters, iu which he made communications 
 
 concerning Emin's situation, and drew attention to the great 
 
 importance of his position on the Upper Nile. These letters, 
 
 which I gave to the public, did not fail to produce 
 
 First ideas . ° . . „ 
 
 of an an impression m the colonial circles of Germany; and 
 already at that time a few efforts, though feeble ones, 
 were initiated with the view of succouring our fellow-country- 
 man. I, for my part, was so completely engrossed, in the 
 year 1886, in business connected with the East African colonial 
 acquisitions, and in founding the German East Africa Company, 
 that, with the best will in the world, I was not in a position 
 to give my attention to any less immediate tasks of the kind. 
 It was the year in which Jlihlke accomplished his Somali 
 Expedition ; the year in which the Universal German Congress 
 held its sittings in Berlin, in which the financing of the East 
 African undertaking was begun, and the so-called London 
 agreement created the sphere of English interests in Eastern 
 Africa. 
 
 Soon afterwards, Stanley took up the idea of carrying help 
 to Emin Pasha; and he qiiickly succeeded in financing the 
 Stanley's undertaking in England. Already at the beginning 
 departure of 1887, he Started from Europe for Eastern Africa, 
 
 lOTC A.£nc9. 
 
 ' and in the spring of the same year he arrived at the 
 Congo, with the band he had recruited in Zanzibar. 
 
 I was in Zanzibar in that year, occupied in regulating the 
 affairs of the coast, and in introducing a few fundamental 
 measures of administration in our colony. I was successful, 
 Public ^" J"^y 1^^^' ^^ inducing the Sultan of Zanzibar to 
 'ezclted' ^o'^clude a preliminary treaty, which in principle 
 established the transfer of the administration of the 
 customs and the coast to the German East Africa Company. 
 Nevertheless, the Stanley expedition to the territories of the 
 Upper Nile naturally could not fail to draw the attention of 
 the public circles more and more to itself, and especially the 
 attention of all who were practically interested in the develop- 
 ment of the regions around the lakes of Central Africa. In 
 the first rank of these stood the German East Africa Company. 
 
HOW THE GERMAN EXPEDITION AROSE. 3 
 
 When I reached Europe again, in February 1888, after my 
 recall from Zanzibar, the chairman of the German East Africa 
 Company, Herr Carl von cler Heydt, at Nervi, handed German 
 me a memorial, which set forth circumstantially the Ixpedfuon^ 
 idea of a German Emin Pasha Expedition, and gave a projected, 
 prospect of a subscription of 300,000 marks (£15,000), provided 
 I felt inclined to undertake the leadership. I acquiesced in the 
 proposal in principle, but declared that my final decision must 
 depend upon the manner in which the idea was received in 
 Germany. 
 
 Meanwhile the fate of our countryman in Wadelai had 
 gradually awakened the purely human interest in large circles 
 of the German people. This more general interest manifested 
 itself in a motion by the Nuremberg division, of which my 
 brother was at that time secretary. This was put before the 
 directing body of the German Colonial Company in April 
 1888, and represented the succouring of our countryman in 
 Wadelai as a duty that touched the honour of the German 
 people. The directorate of the Colonial Company gave a 
 favourable reception to this motion, and declared itself ready to 
 support an undertaking conceived in the spirit of the proposal. 
 
 It was to get this carried into effect that I invited a number 
 of friends of the colonial cause to meet, on June 27th in 
 that year, for a private discussion in a hall of the House 
 of Deputies. On that evening, gentlemen to the rirst steps 
 number of fourteen put in an appearance, and these rerusfng 
 determined, after an introductory deliberation, to *^^ ^^**- 
 constitute themselves a provisional committee for the relief 
 of Emin Pasha. The provisional chairmanship of this com- 
 mittee was entrusted to me ; it was further determined definitely 
 to settle upon a form of appeal to be issued, and to work 
 privately for an increase of the provisional committee, in 
 order to carry it out. I here insert this appeal in the form 
 in which it was drawn up on September 17th, 1888, as it 
 accurately portrays the views in which the German Emin Pasha 
 movement originated, and accordingly sets forth the ultimate 
 basis of our undertaking : — 
 
4 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " Appeal ! 
 
 " The insurrection of the Mahdi in the Soudan has destroyed 
 the first holdings of European civilisation on the Upper Nile ; 
 the cultured world sees with terror how the horrors of an un- 
 bridled system of slave-dealing are spreading more and more. 
 The report that our German fellow-countryman, Dr. 
 
 Services ^ . 
 
 of Emin Eduard Sehnitzer, Emin Pasha, was able to mamtain 
 the Equatorial Provinces in the south of the Soudan, 
 entrusted to him by the Egyptian Government, against the 
 assault of the Mahdi, and is there defending with his troops 
 a last bulwark of European culture, has awakened in Europe 
 the hope that Emin Pasha's provinces will be able to furnish 
 the point of departure for the civilising of Central Africa. 
 With ample means Stanley went forth, commissioned by the 
 English, to re-establish communications with Emin Pasha ; 
 unfortunately his expedition must be considered as a failure. 
 " Emin Pasha, however, is in urgent need of help ; his 
 letters announce that his ammunition and stores are becom- 
 ing exhausted. Shall our heroic countryman, left without 
 succour, be abandoned to destruction, and his province, won to 
 civilisation by German energy, become the prey of barbarism ? 
 The attempts to reach Emin from the Congo have failed ; but 
 from Eastern Africa the best and safest way leads to the Upper 
 Nile, and there is German territory that gives the safest points 
 of departure and support for an Emin Pasha Expedition. The 
 Duty of the German nation is called upon to bring help to the 
 tlwarT German Dr. Sehnitzer. But this help, if it is not to 
 i^- be too late, must be given without delay. Accord- 
 
 ingly, the German Emin Pasha Committee turns to the nation 
 for practical support. May each man contribute his share 
 to the accomplishment of an undertaking, which not only aims 
 to advance our transmarine position, and open new paths to 
 German commerce, but is pre-eminently calculated to fulfil a 
 duty of honour, incumbent upon the bold German pioneer. 
 Considerable sums have already flowed in upon the under- 
 signed Committee ; but to proceed at once to the carrying out 
 
THE COMMITTEE AND THE LEADERSHIP. 5 
 
 of the expedition, the promptest general and readiest liberal 
 participation of extended circles is necessary. We beg that 
 contributions may be made payable to our Treasurer, Carl 
 von der Heydt, in Elberfeld, at the places appointed by him : 
 The German East Africa Company, in Berlin, W., Krausen- 
 strasse, 76 ; or the German East African Plantation Company, 
 in Berlin, W., Kaiserin-Augusta-Strasse, 71 ; or to Herren von 
 der Heydt-Kersten und Sohne, in Elberfeld." 
 
 (Here follow the signatures.) 
 
 In conclusion, it was determined, already at this first meet- 
 ing, on the motion of Dr. Otto Arendt, to put forward my name 
 as the leader of the expedition, with extensive powers. The 
 following gentlemen, according to the report, took part in the 
 sitting: Herren v. Steun, J. Wagner (classical-school teacher), 
 Baron v. Langermann, Councillor v. Vedden, Governmental 
 President v. Pilgrim, Schultz-Lupitz, Livonius, Lucas, Major- 
 General v. Teichmann and Logischen, Dr. Schroeder, Dr. 
 Timotheus Fabri, Dr. Arendt, and Ministerial Director „ 
 
 ' ' Managing 
 
 Sachse. For the further prosecution of the affair, a committee 
 managing committee of five members was chosen from 
 among these gentlemen. It consisted of Herren Arendt, 
 Livonius, Peters, Sachse, and Schroeder. 
 
 This committee, which met on July 7th, determined, 
 before any other steps, to send memorials to His Majesty the 
 Emperor, and to the Imperial Chancellor Prince von Bismarck, 
 soliciting their approval of the projected undertaking. In a 
 sitting of July 18th we elected the following gentlemen as 
 additional members of this committee: The Minister of ^.^j _ 
 State V. Hofmann, Professor Dr. Schweinfurth, Retired mentoftiie 
 
 „ committee. 
 
 First Lieutenant Wissmann, and Assessor Lucas, irom 
 this day the attempts began to arrange a co-operation between 
 Wissmann and myself in the leadership of the expedition. 
 In Madeira, where he had been staying for three-quarters of 
 a year, for the healing of a diseased lung, Wissmann had also 
 conceived the idea of a German Emin Pasha Expedition, and 
 we at once agreed, at any rate, to try whether it would not be 
 possible to undertake the matter in common. 
 
6 
 
 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 This attempt certaiiil)^ did not offer any great prospect of 
 a good result, because it placed in jeopardy the first condition 
 of success in such an aflFair, namely, the unity of command. 
 Co-opera- This was as iuUy recognised by Wissmann as by myself; 
 wissmann accordingly, we very soon agreed upon the point that 
 proposed, it would be necessary to bring about a division of the 
 expedition itself, or, to put it more clearly, to set two expedi- 
 tions on foot. Here, again, the difficulty arose, how to bring 
 about unity of action in the locality itself, the Equatorial 
 Province. To render this practicable, Wissmann made a 
 written declaration, at Wiesbaden, that in carrying out the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition he would subordinate himself 
 to me, in such measure as I should consider necessary. 
 
 In Wiesbaden the preparations could be made for the 
 definitive constituting of the German Emin Pasha Committee and 
 resolutions passed ; and here, on the occasion of a public meet- 
 ing of the committee of the German Colonial Company, 
 of the this constitution was accordingly effected. The sub- 
 aM'prince scriptions had at that time already reached the amount 
 Bismarck, gf 324^413 jjjarks (£1J,220 13s.) ; and answers to the 
 memorials sent by the provisional committee had been received 
 from His Majesty the Emperor and Prince Bismarck, sympa- 
 thetically welcoming the carrying out of a German Emin Pasha 
 Expedition. The committee had, moreover, spread itself over 
 the whole of Germany, and now counted more than a hundred 
 members. 
 
 In the decisive sitting at Wiesbaden, on September 12th, 
 1888, the following gentlemen were present : — 
 
 Vice-Admiral Livonius, Berlin. 
 Chamberlain Count Behr-Bandelin, 
 
 Giitzkow. 
 Dr. Irmer, Hanover. 
 Professor Dr. Fabri, Godesberg. 
 Prince Hohenlohe-Langenburg. 
 Privy Councillor Simon, Berlin,deputy 
 
 of the Landtag. 
 J. Ulrich, Pfungstadt, member of the 
 
 Reichstag. 
 
 PtumpfF Schloss Aprath, deputy of the 
 
 Reichstag. 
 V. Pal^zieux, Weimar. 
 Dr. Schroeder, Poggelow. 
 K. V. d. Heydt, Elberfeld. 
 Dr. Otto Arendt, Berlin, deputy of 
 
 the Landtag. 
 Privy- Commission Councillor Lucius, 
 
 Erfurt, member of the Landtag. 
 Heszler, Erfurt. 
 
INITIATORY MEASURES TO BE TAKEN. 
 
 Dr. Ritter, General Director, Wal- 
 denburg, in Silesia. 
 
 Dr. Fritz Becker, Worms. 
 
 Dr. Eud. Grosse,Strassburg, in Elsass. 
 
 Lieut. Maercker, Strassburg,in Elsass. 
 
 Wissmann, retired First Lieutenant. 
 
 Dr. M. Busse, Mining Councillor, 
 Dortmund. 
 
 Dr. M. Lindeman, Bremen. 
 
 L. Friederichsen, Hamburg. 
 
 Max. Schubert, manufacturer, Chem- 
 nitz. 
 
 G. Wittenbrinck, teacher at the High 
 School, Burgsteinfurt. 
 
 Dr. Wibel, M.D., Wiesbaden. 
 
 D. Kreszmann, retired Major, Karls- 
 ruhe, in Baden. 
 
 Grosz, advocate, Pforzheim. 
 
 Dr. Grimm, Ministerial President, 
 retired, Karlsruhe, in Baden. 
 
 Gerhard Eohlfs, Weimar, Consul- 
 General. 
 
 Chr. Frhr. v. Tucher, Government 
 Councillor, Niirnberg. 
 
 Sachse, Director in the Imperial Post 
 Office, Berlin. 
 
 Dr. E. Sernau, Berlin. 
 
 V. Hofmann, Minister of State, Berlin. 
 
 Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 Heszler, Government Architect. 
 
 G. Truppel, Rudolstadt. 
 
 Heinrich Schaerer, Niirnberg. 
 
 Wilhelm, Prince of Wied, Neuwied. 
 
 V. Cuny, Privy Councillor of Jus- 
 tice, BerHn, deputy of the Eeichs- 
 tag and the Landtag. 
 
 The feeling in this meeting was entirely in accordance with 
 the great thought for the realisation of which it had assembled. 
 Almost unanimously, the conviction was held that the question 
 of supporting our countryman in Wadelai involved a duty of 
 honour for the German people, and that the circles who had 
 inscribed the colonial-political idea on their banner were called 
 upon, more than all the rest, to discharge this honourable duty. 
 The colonial-political points of view have, in the whole move- 
 ment, been regarded as of secondary importance. In accordance 
 with this unity of view, the resolutions of the day were all 
 carried unanimously. Among these the most important were 
 the resolution to convert the provisional committee Definite 
 into an authoritative one, and the resolution, on the o"the com- 
 motion of Prince Hohenlohe, to instal myself, the ™i"ee. 
 Minister of State v. Hofmann, and Dr. Schroeder as presidents. 
 Herr Carl v. d. Heydt was chosen as treasurer, and Dr. Arendt 
 as secretary. The general committee requested the committee 
 of management to carry on an extensive agitation in speech and 
 writing, and on all sides the necessity of speedily putting our 
 intentions into practice was emphatically insisted upon. The 
 sum which we then considered necessary for carrying out the 
 
8 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Emin Pasha Expedition we estimated at 400,000 marks 
 (£20,000). The question was, accordingly, the collecting of 
 176,000 marks in Germany for the undertaking. But the 
 assembly was under the impression that this would hardly 
 occasion any serious difficulty, as in a very short time, in a 
 , , narrower circle, the amount of full 225,000 marks 
 
 Amount of 
 
 money (£'11,250) had been reached. To give an impulse to 
 such further subscriptions, the appeal, which had till 
 then been pursued in a private manner, was now to be signed 
 by the full committee and brought before the public. 
 
 The sitting was closed in an enthusiastic spirit, with cheers 
 for His Majesty the Emperor. But it was a very remarkable 
 coincidence, that just at that moment I received the first de- 
 tailed despatch on the spreading of the insurrectionary move- 
 Troubies in ™®^* On the East Coast of Africa. The thought 
 the east of obtruded itself whether these occurrences in Pangani, 
 Bagamoyo, and Dar-es-Salam might not perhaps neces- 
 sitate, if not the entire cancelling of the plan for which we had 
 assembled in Wiesbaden, at any rate considerable modifications 
 in carrying it out. Meanwhile, however, already in the after- 
 Dr. Peters ^°°^ °^ September 12th the committee of manage- 
 appointed meut assembled for a private sitting, at which, in 
 
 commander. ' °' ' 
 
 consequence of the answer given by Wissmann, the 
 command of the entire undertaking was entrusted to me, with 
 a co-operation that was to be as independent as possible on 
 Wissmann's part. 
 
 Concerning this determination there have been discussion 
 and disputation in the press. We did not at that time make it 
 public in its entirety, and, as is often the case, throughout the 
 whole winter of 1888-89, public opinion, in its conjectures, 
 moved along a false track. The question of the division of 
 the command between Wissmann and myself occupied the 
 Arrange- committee of management once more on September 
 ment^be- 19th, 1888. On that day Herren Livonius, Sachse, 
 ImIZ. ^^^ Schweinfurth were commissioned to conclude 
 ' agreements with Wissmann and me, concerning the 
 carrying out of the Emin Pasha Expedition, on the basis of 
 
10 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the Wiesbaden resolutions. As a basis of our joint advance, it 
 was determined — and in the main it was adhered to, so long as 
 Wissmann remained in the combination — that he should start 
 at once with a small column to march as far as the Albert 
 Nyanza Lake. Meanwhile I was to organise the main column. 
 At the Albert Nyanza we were to meet, and Wissmann, with 
 his column, of which he was to retain the independent com- 
 mand, was then to take part in a plan of operations, to be 
 instruc- delivered to him by me, and determined on by the 
 to'wifr^"^ committee. On September 23rd it was added that 
 mann. Wissmann was to start for Zanzibar on October 5th or 
 12th, and that the question of the route should be left to us two 
 leaders, aided by the advice of competent persons. In the same 
 manner, the selection of the guns was to be left to us two. 
 
 During this period the movement was going forward in 
 Germany. On the foundation of the Wiesbaden resolutions the 
 Livei in Gierman Colonial Company joined it. In Hanover the 
 terest in North-West German Union for the assistance of Emin 
 Pasha was founded, under the presidency of Rudolf 
 von Bennigsen. An address which Herr Ministerial Director 
 Sachse had delivered at Wiesbaden was circulated throughout 
 the whole of Germany, and collections began to be made every- 
 where, in smaller circles, so that there was no longer any doubt 
 that the required 400,000 marks would be raised. 
 
 But at the same time the insurrectionary movement on the 
 East African coast went on side by side with it. The East 
 Progress Africa Company was compelled to evacuate, in quick 
 African*'' succession, the coast places given over to it on 
 disturb- August 15th, with the exception of Bagamoyo and 
 Dar-es-Salam. In Kiloa Kirindshe the officials of 
 the Company were murdered ; and, looked at from Europe, it 
 appeared as if the whole of Eastern Africa were bursting into 
 flame. This certainly proved afterwards to be altogether an 
 error ; and the Emin Pasha Expedition especially was able, 
 by its proceedings, to show that it was so. The agitation did 
 not, in fact, extend to the real negro world of Eastern Africa, 
 with the exception of the tribe of the Mafiti, who were personally 
 
THE Rifiixa IN EASTEB.y AFTUCA. 
 
 11 
 
 stirred up by Bushiri. Even the Wapokomo, on the Tana, had 
 no intelligence of this insurrectionaiy movement, ranch less 
 the Gallas and the Massais. 
 
 Nevertheless, it is manifest that the leaders of the Emin 
 Pasha movement fonnd themselves compelled, at the end of 
 September 188S, to consider the question whether the expe- 
 dition could be carried out at that moment, when the state 
 of things that had existed in the "Wiesbaden days had been 
 so entirely altered. This was the cjuestion that occupied the 
 committee on the morning of September 30th. In this sitting, 
 
 Rudolf v. Eexnigsen. De. George Iioiek, 
 
 FrL'xhhfHt, Vice-Pirs'idvut. 
 
 Of the. XiirthAVest Gi-nnan Unhm for the Succonr of Emin Fashu. 
 
 besides members of the committee. Dr. Junker of Vienna also 
 took part. I had to announce at the meeting the opinion 
 adopted by the German East Africa Company, that the rising 
 in Eastern Africa had become organised under a unity of 
 leadership, and held possession of the caravan roads. At 
 the conclusion of my rejiort, I suggested the question whether 
 an advance in union with England and the Congo State did 
 not recommend itself, in view of this new condition Question of 
 of affairs. Wissmann declared on the same occasion, titn with 
 following up my announcement, that in his ophiion England, 
 tlie Emin Pasha Expedition, according to the original design, 
 had now become impossible. Dr. Junker, too, sided with us. 
 
12 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 and recommended united action with England and Portugal for 
 the subjection of the Arabs. My advice was that we should, 
 in the first place, put ourselves in communication with the 
 English Emin Pasha committee. In view of these proceed- 
 ings, Herr Ministerial Director Sachse insisted on the necessity 
 of going on with the collections under all circumstances, so 
 that the favourable moment might be seized, when it should 
 present itself, for putting the enterprise in execution. His 
 Excellency von Hofmann and I supported this method of 
 procedure, and drew up the following motion, which was 
 unanimously adopted : — 
 
 " Considering that according to the declared opinion of 
 competent persons whose counsel has been sought on the 
 Besoiution ^^^j^ct,* the accomplishing of the Emin Pasha Ex- 
 forpost- pedition, according to the plan hitherto proposed, has 
 become impossible at the present moment, in conse- 
 quence of the disturbances that have broken out in Eastern 
 Africa, the committee resolves to postpone the expedition until 
 such time as it shall appear possible in the view of the Imperial 
 Government, but meanwhile to proceed with the collections for 
 the undertaking in the way already adopted." 
 
 The contents of this resolution were published by us at the 
 time, and the news was welcomed with great jubilation by our 
 opponents in the press. It was considered the undertaking had 
 failed. 
 
 In consequence of this sitting, a report was made to the 
 Imperial Chancellor, Prince Bismarck, who in his reply, dated 
 Friedrichsruh, October 16th, expressed a wish that the manag- 
 ing section of the German Emin Pasha committee should enter 
 Encourage- iuto relations with the German East Africa Company, 
 Price"™ ^'^^ endeavour to agree upon a plan for a common 
 Bismarck, advance and mutual support. Thereupon the managing 
 committee resolved, on October 21st, 1888, to inform the Im- 
 perial Chancellor that it would obey the suggestion offered in 
 his letter, and place itself in communication with the German 
 
 * Schweinfurth also took part in this sitting. 
 
QUESTION OF THE TANA ROUTE. 13 
 
 East Africa Company. Negotiations were accordingly opened 
 with the aforesaid Company, and led to an agreement which was 
 reported to the Foreign Department ; but a new position taken 
 up by the Government, with respect to East African affairs 
 in general, caused the business to deviate into an entirely 
 different direction. 
 
 Meanwhile, in view of the state of things prevailing in the 
 German East African protected territory, the question arose in 
 the managing committee, whether it might not be possible, for the 
 carrying out of the expedition, entirely to avoid this insurrec- 
 tionary region. Wissmann especially, and various others, drew 
 attention to the Tana route as a possible way of reaching the 
 Equatorial Province. This route, if it were practicable, cer- 
 tainly offered the advantage that the undertaking proposed 
 would be commenced forthwith. There could not, the Tan^a 
 indeed, be a question of a definite Tana route, for ^ Material 
 the caravan traffic of Eastern Africa had never yet Province, 
 taken that direction ; and in such cases the existence of certain 
 physical obstacles may always be counted on, that hinder 
 traffic along so great a river as the Tana. It was hardly to 
 be supposed that commercial intercourse would not have taken 
 its way along the Tana if that route had really been suited to 
 the peculiar conditions of East African commercial life. There 
 was moreover the fact that the greater part of the subscrip- 
 tions had emanated from the circles of the German East 
 Africa Company, which supported the Emin Pasha Expedition, 
 in the hope that this undertaking would develop itself chiefly 
 in the German East African protected territory. These ques- 
 tions became the subject of discussion in the German „ . . 
 
 J _ Opinions or 
 
 Colonial Company on November 22nd. Wissmann on wissmann 
 that occasion recommended the Tana route, about which 
 I expressed doubt. These debates on pure matters of detail, 
 which moreover were concluded by a complete understanding, 
 already on November 25th, furnished the hostile press with 
 matter for outbursts of joy, on the dissension in the German 
 Emin Pasha committee — " Wissmann contra Peters ! " 
 
 On November 25th, the German Emin Pasha committee 
 
14 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 resolved unanimously to take in hand, without delay, the 
 starting of the Emin Pasha Expedition ; and Wissmann, to 
 whom, according to the decision of September, the free choice 
 Resolution of his route was left, was to betake himself, as quickly 
 withThe* as possible, to Africa, where he could study the cir- 
 expedition. cumstauces On the spot, and select his route according 
 to the information obtained. It was noted as desirable that, 
 if it could be done Avithout undue loss of time, the route should 
 be through the German East African territory. It was further 
 arranged that I also should prepare the part of the expedition 
 entrusted to me as quickly as possible, and begin carrying it 
 out. On the strength of this resolution, we both at once set 
 about purchasing the equipments necessary for the expedition. 
 
 Affairs were in this state, when Prince Bismarck resolved 
 to take Government action in East Africa, placing First 
 Lieutenant Wissmann in command. Wissmann accordingly 
 retired from the German Emin Pasha Expedition ; and now the 
 Prince plan of a dual expedition was naturally abandoned. 
 ^hangr^f° Although a valuable power was thus withdrawn from 
 *^°"*- the enterprise, on the other side all the means were 
 now placed in one hand, and, above all, the unity of command 
 was assured ; and whatever aspect affairs in German East 
 Africa might assume, the first condition for the success of the 
 undertaking was thus fulfilled. 
 
 It is well known that during all this time various rumours 
 concerning Emin Pasha were spread abroad from England 
 throughout all Europe. At one time Emin Pasha and Stanley 
 were both said to have been killed by the Mahdi ; at another 
 Conflicting *^^ former was reported to be alone in captivity at 
 corerning ^^^^^^""^ ' ^S^^^' ^^^^ ^^^^ Said to be retreating 
 p^ha ^^^^ *^^ province of Wadelai. These rumours, 
 which were at first believed here in Germany, were, 
 however, so contradictory, that we at last came to the con- 
 clusion, which was not confuted by the subsequent actual 
 departure of Emin Pasha with Stanley, that they were inventions 
 put about with a purpose, and calculated to prevent the carry- 
 mg out of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. For of the 
 
DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES. 15 
 
 departure of Emin and Stanley nothing at all was known in 
 England at that time, and there was consequently no objective 
 foundation for the appearance of these reports. Accordingly 
 we were resolved not to be deceived by them. 
 
 Our position was different with regard to the plans of the 
 German Imperial Government in Eastern Africa. It was, of 
 course, altogether alien from our intention to undertake any- 
 thing whose accomplishment might be obstructive or Embarrass- 
 even inconvenient to the Imperial procedure. WeJi^^'^-Ji 
 had, indeed, planned the German Emin Pasha Expedi- 1?^^^ *" 
 tion solely with the object of thereby doing service to ment. 
 our German East African colonial undertakings. How could it 
 have entered into the thoughts of the German Emin Pasha 
 committee, consisting as it did entirely of national men, to 
 advance otherwise than in full agreement with a Government 
 which at that very time, was about to act in accordance with 
 the wishes of the colonial-political elements of Germany in 
 Eastern Africa ? If even one or another had cherished the 
 wish to carry out, under all circumstances, that German Emin 
 Pasha enterprise, on which so much strength and time had been 
 expended, a resolution in this sense was entirely precluded, in 
 a large majority of the committee, in the event of an in- 
 timation from the Imperial Government, to the effect that in 
 the present state of affairs in Eastern Africa it no longer 
 thought this expedition desirable. 
 
 Thus in January 1889 we were especially desirous to 
 ascertain definitely the actual attitude of the Foreign Office. 
 On January 3rd, the managing committee determined, on 
 the motion of Herr Ministerial-Director Sachse, _ , .. 
 
 Kesolution 
 
 "to abandon the hitherto contemplated division offor unity of 
 the command of the expedition ; to entrust to Herr 
 Dr. Peters the leadership of the entire expedition, according 
 to the stipulations agreed upon with Captain Wissmann in the 
 compact of December 20th, 1888, those regulations being 
 omitted, which were made in contemplation of a second 
 expedition." This resolution was at once made known to 
 the Foreign Office, and was not followed by any withdrawal 
 
16 
 
 NEW LIGHT ON BARK AFRICA. 
 
 of the former expressions of sympathy with the carrying out 
 of the expedition. I was privately informed, through Wissmann, 
 that a written answer would not be given to our last com- 
 Co uni niunication ; but that the Secretary of State Count 
 cation from Herbert von Bismarck gave me to understand that the 
 Her Imperial Government was now, as formerly, favourably 
 
 Bismarck. (j^gpQgg^^ towards the project, and only requested 
 that I should maintain an understanding with it concerning 
 the steps I intended to take. In this case the German 
 Government would be glad to support the expedition, so far as 
 was compatible with its action on the Eastern coast of Africa. 
 This declaration, which Herr Dr. Arendt and I were able 
 officially to announce at the sitting of the general committee 
 on January 31st, 1889, appeared to the committee sufficient 
 ground for resolving on the immediate carrying out of the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition. 
 
 At this sitting the following gentlemen were present : — 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Liickhoff. 
 
 Dr. Wagner, teacher at the Latin 
 
 School. 
 Major von Steun. 
 Assessor Lucas, Director of the 
 
 German East Africa Company. 
 Parliamentary deputy Government 
 
 President von Pilgrim. 
 Ministerial Director Sachse. 
 "Vice- Admiral Livonius. 
 Imperial deputy Count von Mirbach- 
 
 Sorquitten. 
 Parliamentary deputy Count Hue de 
 
 Grais. 
 Count von Hake. 
 
 His Excellency von Drigalski Pasha. 
 Imperial deputy Count Arnim- 
 
 Muskau. 
 Parliamentary deputy Professor Dr. 
 
 Friedberg. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Pobbe. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Syndic Tramm. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Muhl. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Privy Coun- 
 cillor Simon. 
 
 Imperial deputy Woermann, of Ham- 
 burg. 
 
 Imperial deputy RudoH von Bennig- 
 sen. 
 
 Imperial deputy J. Ulrich. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Gerlich. 
 
 Minister of State von Hofmann. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Dr. Otto 
 Arendt. 
 
 Parliamentary deputy Government 
 President von Tiedemann. ' 
 
 Imperial and Parliamentary deputy 
 von Kardorif. 
 
 Dr. Irmer, of Hanover. 
 
 Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 These gentlemen unanimously resolved to commence the 
 
CONFLICT OF HOPES AND FEARS. 17 
 
 expedition immediately, and to commission me to proceed to 
 Africa at the first opportunity, to undertake the com- ^j^^ ^^p^^j. 
 mand there in person. In my proceedings in Eastt^'"'*"' 
 
 A f- • T ^1 n r. . ? . , Start Under 
 
 Atrica 1 was to keep myself m accord with the Dr. Peters, 
 impending Government action. 
 
 By this resolution the German Emin Pasha movement had 
 provided the basis on which we were to work in Eastern Africa. 
 It was a very serious moment for me, when I expressed my 
 thanks to the committee for the confidence displayed towards 
 me, by placing me at the head of such an enterprise in such a 
 difficult time. I resigned the chairmanship of the committee, 
 which the Minister of State von Hofmann undertook ; for now, 
 as its commissioner, I was to labour for the object in view. 
 The preparations in Germany were fully completed in Prepara- 
 the course of the month of January ; the officers f^l^^ 
 for the expedition were engaged, and Herr Fritz chosen. 
 Bley in Zanzibar was already authorised to proceed with the 
 hiring of porters. The very next day, February 1st, on the 
 strength of the resolutions of the preceding evening, I 
 directed Lieutenant-Captain Rust and Herr Fricke to start on 
 the evening of that day for Aden, there to recruit one hundred 
 Somali soldiers for the expedition. Those indeed, who opposed 
 German colonial enterprise on principle, now as ever, took 
 up a position of protest against the expedition ; and espe- 
 cially in various circles of the nation, the confidence in my 
 ability to carry such a task into execution, was very far from 
 strong. But after the resolutions of January 31st, Doubts and 
 opinions and dispositions of mind at home were of*'"^*^"*'"^'- 
 little importance, as the basis for the work was here fully 
 assured ; the position of affairs at Zanzibar and on the coast 
 would now determine the future fortunes of the expedition, 
 and the manner in which we should set about our task on 
 our arrival. Opinions and humours at home had no more 
 importance in that moment than the blowing of the autumn 
 wind round the battlements of a strong castle. But already 
 more real obstacles were looming on the horizon, obstacles 
 which we could only make head against in Africa itself ; and it 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 NE] 
 
 L/(,'//T ()X DMIK AFIlfCA. 
 
 was these obstacles that diverted tlie course oi' the German 
 Emin Pasha Exjiedition uito far different ways thai! we could 
 „-^ ,.• have auticii)ated ibr it ou January 31st, 188!*. When 
 
 Difficulties i _ • ^ 
 
 to be en- on February :35th of that j'ear I set out from Berlin 
 
 countered. ,. i, " » !• • x r ^ i 11 1 ■ t 
 
 lor Eastern Airica, 1 perlectiy understood what kind 
 of difficulties and dangers I was going to encounter; and my 
 ]iarting with my iViends at the Anhalt railway station Avas 
 characterised rather by seriousness and emotion than by 
 joyful hope. 
 
 i 
 
 —'^'^ 
 
 ;,^*wiS3 
 
 "'*'*^■^l,.t^. 
 
 ij^Bt '^■j^ljt^S^^^lrti*^^ 
 
 /^^- 
 

 CHAPTER II. 
 
 IN ZANZIBAB AND 
 THE BLOCKADED TEBBITOBY. 
 
 Aequam memento rebus in arduis 
 SeiTare mentem ! 
 
 (Horace.) 
 
 Februar)' 20th I had despatched 
 Lieutenant von Tiedemann to 
 Aden, to assist Lieutenant-Captain Rust in 
 transporting to Lamu the hundred Somali 
 sohliers enlisted by the latter. After mature 
 «=""" deliberation I had determined to organise my 
 expedition far away from the turmoil of the East African 
 disorders, in Witu. In Germany I had not altogether The insur- 
 made up my mind to take the Tana route, being fully distriTtrto 
 aware of the technical difficulties it presented ; but I ^e avoided, 
 foreboded that I might be compelled to it. At all events, the 
 tranquil condition of the sultanate of Witu offered a far more 
 convenient basis for the building up and combination of an 
 expedition than the unquiet state of affairs in Zanzibar and on 
 the East African coast, Avhere the Imperial action might at 
 
 K'^iV'-' 
 
20 
 
 .\7-:ir Lu:u'r ax umik afhica. 
 
 au}' moment be cum])elle(l to thrust aside the interests ol' the 
 German Emin Paslia Expedition. If, on m_y arrival, I should 
 find it practicable to carr_v out my great \yish of leading the 
 expedition through the disturbed territory, I could, even then, 
 have my whole troo]) carried across from Witu to Dar-es- 
 Salam or Bagamoyo. 
 
 Accordingly, I connnunicated by telegrai^h with Lieuti'nant- 
 Captain l>ust in Aden, and sent him corresponding instructions 
 
 Lieutbnaxt-Captain Kust. 
 
 through Herr von Tiedemann, in the first place to lead the 
 hundred Somalis across to Witu, and to proceed to drill then) 
 Supply of ''^'^ ^'^^ nucleus of the troop I should organise. I 
 soldiers had received Jrom Herr Fritz Bley from Zanzibar the 
 
 and porters, i* ■ • n* 
 
 preliminary intelligence that he expected to be able 
 to supply nearly two hundred porters. I now commissioned 
 Herr von Tiedemann to push forward the engaging of porters 
 as energetically as possible iuWitu and the surrounding region, 
 in conjunction with Lieutenant-Captain Rust. By the kind 
 
nECRUITfXG PORTERS ;~DIFFICrL TIER. 
 
 21 
 
 interventiou of the Witu Company, I procured au introduction 
 for these t^yo gentlemen to its representative, Herr Toeppen, in 
 Lamu ; and thus I might hope, if I could not do it in the 
 protected territory, to raise a troop here, which would render 
 practicable an energetic advance into the interior of Atrica. 
 
 Here vox Tiedejiaxn. 
 
 For the transport of my weapons to Eastern Africa, the 
 Imperial Commissary Wissmann granted me ]3ermission to 
 shij) them on board of one <jf his steamers, the Martha. I 
 could therefore expect to avoid the disagreeables and Arms 
 diflficulties that might otherwise arise from the block- '^^pp^'^'"' 
 ade of the coast that had been recently ordered. I 'Martha." 
 took it for granted that, also in English quarters, there would 
 
■')0- 
 
 .v/nr LiaiiT ox dauk afiiica. 
 
 bf consideration ibr an expedition organised by a nation with 
 whirh tlie English were then, as it seemed, working together 
 in a, iriendly manner in Alrica ; the more so, as we were 
 determined to advance there in strict accordance with the 
 action tlie German Empire had taken. 
 
 After taking these measnres, I ]:)roceeded with Herr Oskar 
 Borchert to Egypt, in the hope of there gaming some definite 
 
 JS"- 
 
 OSKAE BOKCHERT. 
 
 Proceed 
 ings at 
 Aden. 
 
 information as to tlie position of Emin Pasha. Not sncceeding 
 in this, I went on to Aden, to work personally at the recrnitiug 
 of an effective t^omali or two, bnt especially to procure 
 camels for the nse of the expedition. I reached 
 Aden in the third week in March ; and here, to my 
 great satisfaction, I found Count Teleki and Herr von Hiihnel, 
 who had just returned from their expedition in Massailand, 
 and gave me very valuable information on the position of 
 affairs l)y Lake Baringo, thr(jugh which territory my course 
 
LANDING AT LAMU FORBIDDEN. 23 
 
 would surely lead me, and concerning the regions northward of 
 the lake, especially Engabot and Turkanj. I also had the 
 pleasure, at Aden, of seeing and speaking to our friend Pro- 
 fessor Dr. Schweinfurth, who was just returning from his 
 Arabian joarney. On the evening of March 24th, Wissmann 
 likewise arrived at Aden from Cairo ; and after I had arranged 
 my affairs, we started, on March 25th, 1889, with Wissmann 
 and a few of his gentlemen. Dr. BumlUler and Herr Janke, for 
 Zanzibar, where we arrived on March 31st, towards two 
 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 Already during this passage Wissmann had shown me a 
 telegram from his representative in Zanzibar, announcing that 
 Rust had landed my Somalis in Bagamoyo. I could not make 
 up my mind to accept the contents of this telegram as correct, 
 as this proceeding was directly contrary to the instruc- commence- 
 
 tions I had given to Rust. But, on March 31st, "'^'^tof 
 
 Til ,,..„. difficulties 
 
 immediately on my landing m Zanzibar from the and 
 Mendoza, I received the necessary explanation through *'^°"^^^^- 
 
 Herr Fritz Bley, and this explanation, at the same time, threw a 
 
 hard light upon the prospect of the things that awaited me in 
 
 Zanzibar. I found that, although Lieutenant-Captain Rust had 
 
 at Aden asked for tickets to Lamu for himself and the Somalis, 
 
 and had duly obtained them from the British India Steam 
 
 Navigation Company at that place, the agents of the company 
 
 had nevertheless forbidden the disembarkation of the people at 
 
 Lamu. The steamer of the British India line had been obliged 
 
 to turn round in front of the harbour of Lamu, and had gone 
 
 with my people to Zanzibar. There, probably at the 
 
 instigation of the English representatives, the Sultan prohibition 
 
 of Zanzibar had likewise opposed the disembarkation ° ^''°^*^®' 
 
 of the Somalis, and thus it had become necessary to carry them 
 
 across to Bagamoyo. I also heard, at the same time, that the 
 
 Sultan of Zanzibar was determined to forbid me the passage 
 
 through Lamu, and to prevent my taking it ; and by this, as 
 
 it seemed, the Tana route was lost to me. As, moreover, the 
 
 whole blockaded territory, German as well as English, was 
 
 closed against me, there seemed to be no access to the interior 
 
24 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 for the German Emin Pasha Expedition from Delagoa Bay to 
 the Juba Islands, and I could not help seeing that the position 
 for me in Zanzibar was much more difficult than m)' worst 
 forebodings in Germany had allowed me to expect. 
 
 On the following day I resolved personally to inspect the 
 
 position at Lamu, and perhaps also beyond it, on the Somali 
 
 coast, which in case of need might be brought into the 
 
 question ; and on April 2nd, on board a Sultan steamer which 
 
 .„ , . happened to be navigating in those waters, and had 
 
 Difficulties ^^ ° " 1 -r> • • 1 T-i A ' • 
 
 with the meanwhile been chartered by the British East Airican 
 Company, I went away in company with Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust and Herr Friedrich Schroeder towards the 
 north. I had previously instructed Herr Fritz Bley to take 
 action in my name against the British East India Steam Navi- 
 gation Company for breach of their contract to land my 
 Somalis at Lamu, laying the damages at ^15,000, or 300,000 
 marks. 
 
 When I arrived in my Sultan steamer, the Kiloa, at 
 Mombas, I was informed by Mr. Buchanan, the representative 
 of the British East Africa Company, that although I had taken 
 passage for Lamu, the steamer must not touch at the harbour 
 there, unless I gave my word of honour that, in the event 
 Vexatious of the ship's running in there, which would only be 
 restrictions. fQj. ^ fg^ hours, I would uot go ou shore at Lamu. 
 Willingly or not, I found myself obliged to give this pledge, 
 because I still had the hope of having a short talk on board 
 with my representative at Lamu, Herr von Tiedemann, who had 
 gone to that place a few days before in the Barawa, and of thus 
 giving him new instructions. It happened as I expected ; and 
 besides Herr von Tiedemann, I saw at Lamu, though only 
 hurriedly, Herr Kurt Toeppen and Herr Gustav Denhardt. 
 AYith Herr Toeppen I arranged that he should endeavour, for an 
 adequate indemnification, privately to procure for me, through 
 Engage- ^"^ ^"^^^^ portcrs for the German Emin Pasha Expedi- 
 "orter°s^ *^°°- ^ ^i^hed to have these porters sent to Lamu. I 
 requested Herr von Tiedemann to give me information 
 concerning the bays and landing-places northward of Lamu. 
 
ATTEMPTED LAXDIXG AT .UERKA. 2r) 
 
 After this had been done, our vessel steamed out aoahi, and 
 we ran to the Somali coast to Barawa, Merka, and Mogdishu. 
 Before each of these places we la}' at anchor for some days ; 
 but the Arab administration there was so weak and cowardl)', 
 and perhaps, also, so malicious towards the Europeans resident 
 in Zanzibar, that until then it had been quite an unusual thing 
 for the captains of the shi])s that ran iu, or for tlieir super- 
 
 Feitz Blet. 
 
 cargoes, to go on shore. The dealers used to come on board 
 the ships and do their business. After submitting to this 
 treatment at Lamu, I determined on my own responsi- Attmpt to 
 bility to make an attempt at landing at Merka. With ^erka 
 Lieutenant-Captain Rust I passed in a, canoe through -b^"*"-*- 
 the somewhat formidable breakers. But when we came to land, 
 there arose such a tumult on the beach,-to which was added an 
 official order from the Arab governor commanding us to turn 
 Ijack,— that we, who were only armed with revolvers, were 
 
26 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 obliged, whether we liked it or no, to abandon our design of 
 getting a nearer view of the circumstances of the place, so far 
 as they concerned our expedition. 
 
 Thereupon I betook myself back to Zanzibar ; and here fresh 
 events had occurred, that rendered the successful accomplish- 
 ment of our undertaking more and more improbable. Contrary 
 to the express instructions I had given in Europe, my hunting 
 Vexations weapons had been shipped from Antwerp by the North 
 at zanzibar.Qgj-j^g^Q Lloyd to Aden, and transhipped from thence 
 to the British India line. By this line they had arrived in 
 Zanzibar while I was on the Somali coast, and, in pursuance of 
 a literal interpretation of the blockade regulations, had been at 
 once seized by the English Admiral Fremantle. As the weapons 
 had been marked by the firm which consigned them to me, not 
 as " ammunition," but as " merchandise," the British India 
 Company also assumed an attitude as if it were pursuing an 
 action against me for £15,000, or 300,000 marks, damages. 
 
 Now I knew that my real weapons of war and the Reming- 
 tons which I was to take to Emin Pasha were likewise lying at 
 Telegraphic Aden. There was a pressing danger that these also 
 tions^witii ■would be carried on board the British India line and 
 Aden. seized at Zanzibar. I immediately put myself in active 
 telegraphic communication with the German Consulate at Aden, 
 to procure the transhipment of these weapons of war to one of 
 Wissmann's steamers, preferably to the Martha, which was 
 expected from Hamburg. The captain of the Martha, Freiherr 
 von Gravenreuth, declared, however, to the Consulate at 
 Aden, that the ship was full, and could not take my chests of 
 arms. Then by means of the telegraph, in which Wissmann 
 supported me, I endeavoured to get my weapons on board 
 the Harmonie, which was expected later. But, to my painful 
 surprise, I received, in answer to my last telegram, an intima- 
 tion from the German Consul at Aden that the arms had been 
 Useless shipped on board the British India line. I now tried 
 help at °^ at the German General Consulate in Zanzibar to pre- 
 zanzibar. ^gjj^ ^j^g seizure of this part also of my equipment, by 
 showing my telegraphic correspondence with Aden, and thus 
 
OPPOSITION FROM THE SULTAN. 27 
 
 proving how it was against my express instructions that the 
 consignment of arms had been put on board the English 
 Zanzibar line. But I found it impossible to get any kind of 
 support here ; and thus this part likewise of my store of 
 weapons fell into English hands so soon as it got to Zanzibar, 
 and was first deposited on board an English ship of war, and 
 afterwards sent back to Aden by order of the British Admiral. 
 
 On my return to Zanzibar, a second great disappointment 
 awaited me. Zanzibar had always been the traditional furnish- 
 ing-place, with regard to porters, for all expeditions proceeding 
 from Middle Eastern Africa into the interior. Here Application 
 the Pagasis are engaged, and until lately there was Mreponers 
 not an expedition that could do without calling at ^^"^^^'^*^*- 
 Zanzibar. Accordingly I lost no time in making the usual 
 application to the German Consulate, with the request that the 
 permission might be obtained for me to hire porters there from 
 the Sultan of Zanzibar — a mere formality, the permission being 
 granted to every expedition as a matter of course. Consider- 
 ing my old relations with the Arabs, it could not be diflRcult for 
 me to procure porters in Zanzibar, and in fact several hundreds 
 of persons had already offered themselves to me in that 
 capacity. When I returned to Zanzibar on April 17th, 1 heard, 
 to my astonishment, that no answer had been received to my 
 application to the Consulate ; and at the same time I was 
 informed that the Sultan had caused it to be made The suitan's 
 known that every black man who took part in the *^'^^**' 
 expedition should have his head struck off at whatever time 
 he might return to Zanzibar, and that I must not reckon on 
 engaging porters. 
 
 To meet these difficulties, Herr Fritz Bley, who was at that 
 time my representative at Zanzibar, had, very judiciously, on 
 his own responsibility, cast about for a steamer for us ; and he 
 had succeeded, by tihe intervention of the Indian Sewa Hadji, 
 in securing one for me, namely the Neoera, from the Bombay 
 Steam Navigation Company. I had originally wished to 
 work with sailing boats, but, in view of these quite unex- 
 pected and entirely unusual hindrances, it was exceedingly 
 
28 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 likely that the possession of a steamer would be necessary, if I 
 was to take up the contest at all. ^o with a heavy heart I 
 The resolved to disburse the large sum required for the 
 
 ch^rtertd at chartering of the Neoera; and this resolution naturally 
 heavy cost, involved a very important change in my plan of or- 
 ganising the expedition. As I was compelled to spend nearly 
 75,000 marks (£3,750) only to secure the landing on the coast, 
 — a thing for which, as a rule, every other expedition received 
 facilities on all sides, — I could no longer hope to carry out 
 an expedition estimated to consist of a hundred soldiers and 
 six hundred porters. 
 
 Accordingly, already in April I made up my mind to dismiss 
 at least two-thirds of the Somali force ; and I now began to 
 contemplate an expedition of a hundred and fifty to two hundred 
 porters. 
 
 But fate seemed bent on forbidding the execution even of 
 this design. The following weeks were characterised by efforts 
 on my part, if not to recover all my arms, at least to release 
 my hunting weapons from the English blockade ; and on the 
 other hand, by diplomatic intervention of the Empire, to pro- 
 cure access to Lamu. With this object in view 1 telegraphed 
 Endeavour ou April 29th to the Emin Pasha committee in Berlin, 
 the'poreign requesting that an application might be made to the 
 Office. Foreign Office, to procure for me, from the English, 
 permission to proceed to Witu. After waiting for some days 
 without receiving news, I renewed the application on May 
 6th; and on the 10th I begged for mediation that my confis- 
 cated arms might be given up. On May 13th I received the 
 reply, " Foreign Office refuses all mediation and support." 
 Thus I was cut off from all further hope in this direction. I 
 was now thrown back entirely on my own resources, and had 
 DiffioiiitieB-*° P"* *^^ question seriously to myself, whether I really 
 confiscation believed I could carry out the expedition under these 
 
 of weapons. . -^r 
 
 Circumstances, or not. My weapons were confiscated, 
 with the exception of the muzzle-loaders and breech-loaders, 
 which Wissmann had formerly bought for his section of the 
 expedition, and had handed over to me in Berlin. These were 
 
REPORT TO THE C02rMlTTEE AT HOME. 29 
 
 lying at the depots of the Imperial Commissariat at Bagamoyo 
 and Dar-es-Salam. But it was still a question whether the 
 delivery of these weapons would not also be refused from 
 Berlin. Such was the condition of the affair in the middle of 
 May. I expressed my opinion of the general position, in a 
 report from Zanzibar to the German Emin Pasha committee, 
 ■dated May 17th, from which I give the following extract: — 
 
 " If the Imperial Government did not wish that the German 
 Emin Pasha Expedition should be undertaken, it should have 
 forbidden the project, which it was the more bound to do, as 
 it had from the commencement approved of the Extract of 
 movement, and indeed had set it going. Moreover, Emin'pasha 
 we have at once informed the Imperial Chancellor of ''°"™""®^- 
 each of our resolutions. But to have allowed the development 
 of the project to the present point, and now to permit its being 
 hindered under every imaginable pretext, amid the derision of 
 all the nations represented here, and even with the co-operation 
 of the German authorities, is certainly a very peculiar method 
 of advancing German interests and German honour on the 
 shores of the Indian Ocean, and a curious application of the 
 * Civis Romanus sum ' of which Prince Bismarck formerly 
 spoke in the Imperial Diet." In conclusion, I explained my 
 position, in view of our difficulties, in the same report, in the 
 following manner : — 
 
 " But in face of the difficulties in every direction, in face 
 of the intrigues with which we have to fight daily, all of us 
 here, I am proud to say, are only the more firmly resolved to 
 carry on the undertaking to the utmost verge of possibility. 
 The blockade extends from 2° 10' to 10° 28' south latitude, 
 and there are still points of access enough, which the jj^tg^^jj^^. 
 European powers, Germany and England, have no Uon to 
 legitimate pretext for closing against the German 
 Emin Pasha Expedition. If our weapons are permanently 
 confiscated, we shall procure compensation. We shall certainly 
 be powerless against violence by sea. But once in the interior 
 we shall, for the time, be masters of the situation." 
 
 The report concludes with the expressed conviction : " If 
 
30 .V^ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the political circles in Germany and we here work on together, 
 resolutely and unbewildered, in this persuasion, we shall accom- 
 plish our purpose, as there is a providential Power that rules 
 over human affairs. In this firm conviction I remain, with 
 perfect esteem, etc." 
 
 Thus the resolution was firmly upheld, under no circum- 
 stances to abandon the expedition until mechanical obstacles 
 rendered a further advance entirely impossible. 
 
 Meanwhile, in the beginning of May, the Necera had arrived 
 Thesteamerat Zanzibar. The steamer proved to be a very sturdy 
 "Neoera." ^^^^le craft, that could make her eleven miles an hour, 
 and I considered her of the first importance for the prosecution 
 of our enterprise. By means of the Necera, if it came to the 
 worst, I had the power of bringing weapons from some other 
 part of the Indian Ocean, and, before all other things, it became 
 possible for me to collect porters on the coast, and event- 
 ually to evade the blockade. In the first instance, I put the 
 little craft in the service of the Imperial commissariat, as the 
 Wissmann steamers had not yet arrived, and it was especially 
 important, before all things, to get my muzzle-loaders and my 
 ammunition away from Bagamoyo and Dar-es-Salam. I also 
 depended especially, for the enlisting of porters, on Bagamoyo, 
 where Lieutenant-Captain Rust, who commanded our Somalis 
 there, had already established relations for this purpose with 
 the French mission. 
 
 On May 17th I crossed over for the first time to Bagamoyo, 
 in the Necera ; and during this passage, as happened to me 
 repeatedly during the expedition, I suddenly felt pene- 
 Bagamoyo, trated With a profound certamty that the undertaking 
 was destined to be put into practice in spite of all 
 difficulties, and, so far as we were concerned, to be accom- 
 plished. During the following days I took some hundreds of 
 Wissmann's troops, with Wissmann himself, across to Dar-es- 
 Salam, and obtained from him permission to take away a 
 hundred muzzle-loaders and fifty breech-loaders from his 
 dep6ts, where they lay. 
 
 When I returned to Bagamoyo, a few days afterwards, I 
 
DETERMINATION TO PROCEED. 31 
 
 received the very agreeable information that Brother Oskar, of 
 the French mission, had about sixty Central-African porters 
 ready for me. Besides the breech-loaders and the hundred 
 muzzle-loaders, the manager of the depot in Dar-es- 
 Salam had delivered to Herr Oskar Borchert seventeen of the 
 repeating weapons, for which Wissmann at Bagamoyo ^^p^*^''""^- 
 very kindly gave me three thousand ball cartridges. I de- 
 posited all these stores of weapons in the houses inhabited by 
 the Somalis at Bagamoyo, and on Sunday, May 26th, betook 
 myself back to Zanzibar to transport my tents and other 
 equipments from thence to Bagamoyo. I took seventy-three 
 Somalis across with me to Zanzibar, and dismissed them there. 
 
 Here, in the meanwhile, Herr Fritz Bley and Herr Borchert 
 had practically concluded the re-packing of the loads, 
 dimmishmg their numbers. From Herr Bley, how- of Herr 
 ever, I was obliged on the following morning to part, ^^' 
 as the state of his health urgently necessitated his return to 
 Europe, and it was obvious that for undertakings such as 
 we had in view only sound and vigorous constitutions were 
 available. 
 
 I remained in Zanzibar until Saturday, June 1st ; and this 
 week was important in two directions for the carrying out of 
 the Emin Pasha Expedition. On the one hand, we commenced 
 negotiations during this week with Herr Gasch, who stood in 
 communication with the southern places, and received ^^^^^^ 
 advice from him, concerning the further procuring of ceedmg de- 
 
 . rr, ■ -r-> Ti /r 1 • ternuiiedon 
 
 porters, perhaps m Tungi Bay, or Mozambique, or 
 Delagoa Bay. Through these conferences there arose in 
 Zanzibar the settled conviction that I should, in the first place, 
 go with the Necera to Mozambique, to get porters from thence ; 
 and this conviction was remarkably useful to us during the 
 next week in the accomplishment of my real plan. For, though 
 I had not myself made any communications in reference to 
 it, this opinion was held, in a certain degree, by the com- 
 manding admirals in Zanzibar. On the other hand, during the 
 concluding week in May, I entered into personal communica- 
 tion with Admiral Fremantle, with the view of effecting, at 
 
32 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 least, the delivering up of my hunting weapons ; and in this I 
 succeeded. 
 
 I myself went on board the British flagship, and had a 
 lengthy conference with Admiral Fremantle, which threw a 
 clear light on the situation of affairs. A few days previously, 
 the Deputy Commander in Zanzibar had announced to me, in 
 Conference the abseuce of Fremantle, that I had no right to put 
 Admiral ^^ith the Necera, although she did not in general fall 
 Fremantle. ^ndgr the blockade regulations, into any place that was 
 under blockade, especially Mompas, whither I had wished to go 
 to have a conference with Fremantle. I asked Fremantle what 
 were the reasons and motives of this peculiar order, and he 
 declared to me, in the plainest possible manner, that I was 
 inconvenient to the English in Eastern Africa, and might there- 
 fore not reckon upon enjoying, with their sanction, the same 
 right that any one else would have. Twice he openly gave me 
 to understand that, with respect to me, it was a state of war — 
 " C'est la guerre ! " If ihis did not suit me, I should send a 
 despatch to my Government in Berlin ; a despatch from Berlin 
 to London, and from London to him, would completely alter 
 the state of things. This he explained to me repeatedly. He 
 deplored all this condition of things, but must obey his instruc- 
 The Ad ^ions. Nevertheless, at the conclusion he promised me 
 mirai's not to come in my way outside the line of blockade, 
 
 declaration. , i-rv^ i ■ • i /. n -»-r 
 
 and to put no dimculties m the way or the Necera, in 
 case I wished to send her to Lamu, provided that neither I nor 
 contraband of war was on board. 
 
 " C'est la guerre ! " With these words Fremantle had also 
 indicated to me my position in the affair. If I found no legal 
 protection it behoved me, in carrying out the commission 
 entrusted to me, to try how much I could accomplish without 
 it. I considered it more consonant with our national honour 
 and our national interests to perish, on the sea or on the land, 
 Reference with my whole expedition, than to retreat before this 
 mittee IT" paltry mass of obstacles and intrigues. To do this 
 iiome. ^j^^j^ ^ gQQ^j conscience, it was certainly necessary that 
 I should have another expression of authority from the body 
 
DEFINITE START FOR DAR-ES-8ALAM. 33 
 
 whose commission I held, the German Emin Pasha committee. 
 It happened fortunately that, on my arrival at Zanzibar, I had 
 found a telegram waiting for me, asking for information con- 
 cerning the state of the expedition and our condition as i-egarded 
 weapons. I telegraphed back that the arms had been replaced, 
 and that I hoped to be able to start in four weeks. Then, on 
 May 30th, I received the welcome reply : " All right ! Authority 
 forward ! Hofmann." I had now what I wanted, and *" a*va"oe- 
 was resolved to delay no longer, but to extricate myself at once 
 from this state of thraldom in the blockaded territory with the 
 means that were still at my disposal, however limited they 
 might be, and to seek in a freer field the scene of further 
 development of events. I was now determined to lead my 
 expedition northward round the line of the blockade, and to 
 seek more suitable points of support for the advance, in Witu 
 and on the Tana. 
 
 On June 1st, in company with Herr Oskar Borchert, and 
 with Herr Friedenthal, who had been engaged expressly for 
 packing the cases, I crossed over to Bagamoyo, having Departure 
 my hunting weapons and the other paraphernalia of ^°™ ^^f *' 
 the expedition on board. The whole of the following Dar-es- 
 day, and on June 3rd, I was shipping my arms and 
 ammunition in Bagamoyo, and on the 4th I caused Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust to take into actual service the porters enlisted 
 through Brother Oskar. On June 5th I embarked all my 
 forces, and on the morning of the 7th we steamed out of the 
 harbour of Bagamoyo, bending our course towards Dar-es- 
 Salam. In Bagamoyo it was thought that I should lie for a 
 week at Dar-es-Salam, to procure additional porters, and then 
 betake myself to the south. I should indeed have been very 
 glad to get more porters at Dar-es-Salam, as I had procured 
 only fifty-three men in all at Bagamoyo. I feared, however, 
 that by longer tarrying in Dar-es-Salam I should risk every- 
 thing without a proper equivalent, and consequently contented 
 myself with hiring some fifteen more men there on June 8th ; 
 and already, on the morning of the 9th, a Sunday, I proceeded 
 
 onward from Dar-es-Salam. 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 .V/-:il' IJilllT ox UAUK AFIHrA. 
 
 Hen-en Teramiii, Maercker, Kilsel, ami liabe had helped lUf 
 with all their mii;hl, in the kindest manner. I took leave ot 
 them at eight (/cluck in the murning, on the (jna)' at Dar-es- 
 Salam, and shaped my conrse at hrst towards the sonth, to get 
 sai'ely clear of the entire blockade territory. The gnns of the 
 station sainted the departing ^^(^lVl■a, and we took leave of onr 
 countrymen on the coast with a return salvo IVom our rej)eating 
 
 rifles. 
 
 It was a nhirions moment when the outlines of the islands 
 
 '"1 
 
 ,• .,._^;sX 
 
 
 The "Neosra" running out prom Dae-es-Salam. 
 
 of Dar-es-Salam faded away behind us. A stift' breeze came up 
 Hopes for from the north-west, and the sea was strongly agitated, 
 the future, jj^g future, indeed, lay before us shrouded in uncer- 
 tainty, even in darkness ; but the sentiment that moved us 
 three — Lieutenant-Captain Rust, Oskar Borchert, and myself— 
 at that instant, Avas certainly one of relief, of release from a 
 heavy pressure, the feeling of liberty, of movement. If we 
 made our way hito tlie free ocean, we could shape our plans as 
 we chose, and had not to apprehend being crushed unceremoni- 
 ously by measures of brute force. It was only on the preceding 
 
THE PASSAGE TO KWAIHU BAY. 35 
 
 evening that I had disclosed my definite plans to the captain 
 of the Necera and to Lieutenant-Captain Rust. I was going 
 to hold a northward course outside of the islands of Zan- 
 zibar and Pemba, and endeavour to gain Kwaihu Bay, pianofpro- 
 that lies north of the blockade territory. Technically, needing, 
 this undertakmg was no easy one, for Kwaihu Bay is blocked 
 from the outside by reefs, and generally cannot be entered 
 without a pilot's help. We had naturally not been able to 
 procure a pilot in Zanzibar, for this would have frustrated 
 the whole plan. 
 
 But it was necessary that I should run this risk, if I did 
 not wish to give up the expedition as such. So we took the 
 responsibility on ourselves. After we had run for ten ^ devious 
 miles to the south-east, the course was altered towards "''""*• 
 the east, in which direction, by six o'clock in the evening, we 
 had steamed about fifty miles. Then we shifted our course to 
 north-north-east, and in the night ran past Zanzibar and Pemba, 
 steering directly for Lamu. Till four in the afternoon we 
 steamed on through a very rough sea, till about the latitude 
 of Lamu, and from thence we held on to the north-west, shap- 
 ing our course for Kwaihu. Zanzibar and the whole blockade 
 were far out of sight astern. 
 
 On the evening of the 10th our expedition was near coming 
 to a sudden end. I was sitting after supper on the quarter- 
 deck, over a cigar, with Lieutenant-Captain Rust and Alarm of 
 Oskar Borchert, when suddenly a bright glare of fire ^''^■ 
 shone from the saloon, where all our powder and ammunition 
 were stored. The heavy rolling and pitching of the vessel had 
 overthrown the petroleum lamp, which exploded about three 
 feet from the first powder barrel. We rushed down at once 
 with the captain and engineer, caught up a number of woollen 
 blankets, which we threw upon the fire, making a kind of 
 package of the whole, and threw the flaming mass overboard. 
 Except a few burns on Rust's hand, there were no casualties 
 to record. I took this as a fortunate omen, and a complete 
 confidence in the further fortunes of the expedition filled my 
 heart. 
 
36 ^!EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th we awoke with the impression 
 that we were in the latitude of Kwaihu Bay. We skirted an 
 A stormy island which, according to the marine charts, corre- 
 passage. gponded to Kwaihu Bay. There was a heavy sea, the 
 wind whistled from the south-west, heavy rollers broke con- 
 tinually over our little boat, which threatened every moment 
 to capsize. The chests were thrown violently to and fro, and 
 my people groaned with sea-sickness and alarm. Till nearly 
 eleven o'clock we were sounding and tacking. Then I had the 
 gig lowered, to attempt a landing through the roaring breakers. 
 But the boat was nearly overturned, and we had to get it back 
 on board quickly, or we should have lost it. An imperfect 
 observation of the sun's altitude at noon indicated that we were 
 about 1° south latitude, conse'quently thirteen miles north of 
 the Hohenzollern harbour, or about sixty miles from Kw.aihu 
 Bay, and in sight of one of the Dundas Islands. So strongly 
 had the coast current carried us towards the north. 
 
 We steamed at full speed towards the south-west until seven 
 in the evening, making only seven (German) miles against 
 Harassing the monsoon ; and we had, beyond this, to reckon for 
 navigation. g^jljQ^^ three miles of leeway towards the north; so 
 that our actual progress on our course comprised only four 
 (German) miles. By seven in the evening we had made about 
 forty miles. From that time we went at half-speed, to avoid 
 getting into the English blockade, until four in the morning, 
 whenwe put on full speed again. After long soundings, etc., 
 and observation of the sun's altitude at noon, we simply found 
 ourselves in about the same position as yesterday. So greatly 
 had we still under-estimated the set of the stream towards the 
 north. 
 
 Now matters became really serious, for a want of water 
 began to make itself felt. At Zanzibar I had ordered the 
 Scarcity of ^^P^^-in to take about a week's supply of water on 
 water on board, and he had done so : but he had only reckoned 
 
 board. j? i • i • , 
 
 tor his own ship s company, and had not allowed for the 
 people I was to bring. In Dar-es-Salam I had endeavoured to 
 supply this want. It had, however, been impossible to get large 
 
DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 37 
 
 quantities of water on board ; and thus, in the expectation of 
 being in Kwaihn Baj- in three daj's at the latest, I had steamed 
 awa)" with an insufficient store of water — undoubtedl}" a great 
 mistake in administration. The captain began to lose courage. 
 Then I made arrangements for catching the rain water, and 
 
 ■■Is KwAiHU Peak in Sight.'" 
 
 away we went again, under press of steam, to the south-west, 
 against a heavy sea and roaring wind, like yesterday. Sleep 
 was not to be thought of, as we were all berthed on the after- 
 deck ; it was the more impossible, as heavy downpours of rain 
 wetted evervthing through. We steamed at full speed till lour hi 
 the morning ; then steered west by north towards the land and 
 
38 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 sighted— one of the Dundas islands. The captain was much 
 depressed, and demanded to go back to Zanzibar. Accordingly 
 I issued a written instruction to him to cruise before 
 ^tt the*' Kwaihu Bay, until he should receive a different order 
 captain. ^_^^^ ^^ j threatened, if he did not obey my direc- 
 tions, to hold his company answerable for the loss of £20,000. 
 That sufficed for the day. By dint of more extensive measures 
 I further succeeded, on this Thursday morning, in collecting 
 and storing in the tanks about 1,500 buckets of rain water. 
 
 At half-past twelve we had a gleam of sunshine, and the 
 captain took the sun's altitude for 2° south latitude, so that we 
 must be near our goal. At half-past one I drew Herr Borchert's 
 attention to the fact that I thought I descried Kwaihu Peak, the 
 landmark of Kwaihu Island. Immediately afterwards a very 
 heavy squall arose, with black rain clouds, so that everything 
 Banger of vanished, and we had hurriedly to steer away from the 
 shipwreck, j^nd, lest we should be thrown upon the reefs. At 
 four o'clock the captain came on the after-deck, and asked 
 me to step on the bridge and see if the island opposite was 
 not Lamu. I ithought it was, and Lieutenant-Captain Rust 
 was even more decidedly of the same opinion. We slowed 
 down ; then, as we imagined, passed Manda Island northward, 
 till we thought we saw the entrance to Manda Bay. Now we 
 seemed to know where we were. We were obliged to hold off 
 from the shore because the sun sank. Through the night we 
 cruised in sight of the island. The next morning we were to 
 go along Patta and to Kwaihu Bay. In such a mood as used to 
 be mine in my boyish days in anticipation of Christmas Eve, 
 I lay through the night sleepless on my swaying chair. Next 
 morning at dawn we went on. Yonder was Manda, yonder 
 Patta — now Sewy Point and Sewy Spit and Kwaihu Bay with 
 Botteler's Ledge must come. Sure enough there it 
 
 Doubts as ^ . „ p 
 
 to our posi- was. But the bay was obstructed by a barrier of reels 
 and by violent breakers. And what was yonder island 
 in the middle, that was not marked on the marine chart ; and 
 why did the soundings not correspond P At twelve o'clock the 
 solar observations showed us that we were in 1° 34' S. latitude, 
 
THE PASSAGE ACC02IPLISHED. 39 
 
 consequently twenty-nine to thirty German miles northward of 
 Kwaihu Bay. The coast formations along the Benadirland are 
 so uniform, that such mistakes as happened to us must not be 
 too much wondered at. I believe we may have had Fairhead 
 before us on this mournfully fine Friday. 
 
 Off we went again, under full steam, towards the south ! In 
 the evening we were opposite the fancied Lamu, where we 
 had cruised the night before. Next morning onward to the 
 south-west ! And there it rose before us. The peculiar, unmis- 
 takable Kwaihu Peak was there at length, and finally Kwaihu 
 Bay itself ! It is impossible to picture the feeling of 
 
 •' fro Arrival at 
 
 deep satisfaction I experienced. It must be remem- Kwaihu 
 bered how much was at stake on this occasion. With ^^' 
 what derision we should have been received, and how kindly the 
 English blockade would have welcomed us if, as might easily 
 have happened, we had stumbled into it ! A slight accident to 
 our engines or our screw might have overthrown everything. 
 However, these were cures passatcB, and between ten and eleven 
 o'clock on Sunday, June 15th, we passed through the breakers 
 of Kwaihu Bay. At eleven the Necera anchored. Behind 
 us lay the breakers of Siyu Spit, and before us, though cer- 
 tainly at a distance of five miles, the continent of Africa. 
 What very seldom happens to me now, after these four days 
 of exhaustion and sleeplessness I felt someAvhat excited. 
 
 But there was no time for recreation. We had no boats, and 
 a fresh breeze was blowing into the bay, and more than a 
 hundred persons and about twenty thousand pounds of cargo 
 had to be landed. Consequently, at half-past eleven I stepped 
 into the gig with Lieutenant-Captain Rust, to proceed losiyufor 
 to Siyu and secure people for unloading and carrying, """^^t^- 
 As a precaution I took with me the jolly-boat with six of my 
 soldiers ; and it was only towards three o'clock that we reached 
 the village of Siyu, on the north side of Patta. We quickly 
 succeeded in establishing friendly relations. But I learned that 
 dhows were only to be had in Pasa from Buana Mse, with the 
 concurrence of the Arab governor. Quickly resolved, I sailed 
 on westward, with Rust, in the jolly-boat to Pasa. Herr 
 
40 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Friedenthal, who had meanwhile arrived with the other jolly- 
 boat, was dkected by me to follow me slowly in this second 
 boat, with ten soldiers, and to lay to in front of Pasa. 
 
 Pasa is a town of between four and five thousand inhabit- 
 ants, with a fort and an Arab garrison. Hundreds of people 
 surrounded us when we were ceremoniously ushered into the 
 Governor's presence. At Pasa the sympathies were decidedly 
 English, as Mr. Mackenzie had shortly before been 
 
 Our for- * ' •' 
 
 tunes at strewiug gold around. The inhabitants took us for 
 Englishmen, as the Necera sailed under the English 
 flag. I saw no reason to undeceive them in this matter ; and 
 hajf-an-hour later I sailed back with two great dhows to the 
 Necera, which we reached towards seven o'clock. Buana Mse 
 had also secured for me a hundred and fifty porters, whom, 
 however, he did not afterwards produce. 
 
 That same night, with the sea running high, we succeeded 
 in getting all the contraband of war, powder, ammunition, etc., 
 into one of the dhows, with twelve soldiers to guard it. The 
 second dhow we loaded next morning at daybreak ; and as at 
 this moment a third dhow ran up to the steamer, I was now 
 Embarka- ^^'® **^ embark all my people at once. On Sunday 
 tionofthe moming towards eight o'clock we made all clear for 
 leaving the Necera. Indeed, as is usually the case, it 
 appeared at the last moment that all the things had not been 
 got out of the boat ; but as the ebb was setting in fast, and 1 
 would no longer run the risk of exposing the whole business to 
 the chance of a coz<jj de main of the English, I made up my 
 mind to leave Herr Friedenthal behind, and to let the re- 
 mainder of the things follow us on that day or the succeeding 
 one. I should probably have done this far more zealously if 
 I had been aware of what was taking place meanwhile, just 
 south of Kwaihu Bay. 
 
 Fremantle, whose attention must have been attracted by 
 my departure and my sudden disappearance from the Zanzibar 
 waters, had meanwhile put himself in motion, with his flagship 
 and three other men-of-war, in the certain hope, as it appears 
 to me, that I should endeavour to run into Manda Bay, and 
 

PROCEEDINGS WITH THE DHOWS. 41 
 
 that he should succeed in laying hold of me there. His flag- 
 ship lay ahout two German miles from me. He had neglected 
 to occupy Kwaihu Bay, because he looked upon the entrance 
 to it as closed up ; which I consider an unpardonable prooeed- 
 error on his part. That he did not, as was afterwards ^f^ai 
 affirmed in English quarters, consider Kwaihu Bay I'remantie. 
 as lying outside the region of his blockade and that I had a 
 right to land there, is shown by the fact that a few days later 
 he forbade the Necera to land her effects in Lamu or in the 
 adjoining bays and harbours, — a prohibition that undoubtedly 
 included Kwaihu Bay. Thus Fremantle was quietly lying in 
 Manda Bay, when at about ten o'clock I with my three sturdy 
 dhows parted company with the Necera. In the first jj^ ^^^^^^ 
 of these I had embarked with Lieutenant-Captain Rust, i»i the 
 in the second was Herr Borchert, the third I had care- 
 lessly left without any white man on board, as it was to be 
 commanded by Herr Friedenthal, whom at the last moment I 
 had ordered back to the Necera. It was with a feeling of 
 exaltation that I saw the white line of breakers gradually dis- 
 appear behind us. Such may have been the emotions of the 
 much-enduring Ulysses, when Circe's island disappeared beneath 
 the ocean. 'v 
 
 At eleven o'clock a heavy shower of rain drew up, veiling 
 before as in twilight the islands of Kwaihu and Fazy,- and 
 also the continent. Thus we could not accurately control our 
 course, and were anything but pleasantly surprised when, 
 towards twelve o'clock, the dhow suddenly struck ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ 
 heavily, and at the same time the sail came down, dhow navi- 
 without any command from us. The '' captam ot 
 the dhow informed us that the Arab governor had given orders 
 we were to come once more to Pasa before we betook ourselves 
 to the continent. As I afterwards ascertained, the gentlemen 
 had held councils during the night, and after learning who we 
 were had resolved to keep us at Pasa until the British Admiral 
 Fremantle sent to decide what should be done with us. To 
 acquiesce in this was certainly not now my intention. I could 
 not think of making the success of the whole undertaking 
 
42 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 dependent on the humours of Arabs who were in the pay of 
 the English. I gave orders to hoist the sail again. After a 
 short resistance my people succeeded in carrying out the order, 
 at which the Patta people half voluntarily and perhaps half 
 under compulsion sprang overboard, and we were now com- 
 pletely masters of the boats. I requested Lieutenant-Captain 
 Energetic Rust to take the helm in my boat; the two other 
 measures, pursuing dhows that now arrived, and manoeuvred like 
 the first, had also to turn round, when Herr Borchert at my 
 call interposed energetically; and after I had succeeded in 
 putting some determined Somali soldiers into the third, by 
 means of swimming, we drew off hastily from the land, when 
 we saw masses of people coming along with loud cries, and 
 now with full sails we steered for the continent of Africa. 
 
 The rain, which had ceased for a time, now began to fall 
 again more heavily, and a grey mist hid the Siyu Canal, into 
 which we now ran. At half-past one o'clock we anchored before 
 a place that was designated to me as Kiwani. I wondered at 
 seeing no houses, but caused myself to be carried by 
 does not three men a long distance through the sea, to look 
 about me. There was the usual mangrove thicket. 
 A grey swell struck incessantly into the knotted tree roots 
 on which we stood. Lieutenant-Captain Rust, who had landed 
 with''six Somali soldiers, agreed with me either that this was 
 not Kiwani or that Kiwani was not the place for us. There- 
 fore back into the boats ! I now took my place in the third 
 boat, ordering Lieutenant-Captain Rust into the first one, so 
 that each boat was furnished with a commander. 
 
 Before us lay the Siyu Canal, which runs into Manda Bay. 
 On the left, in graceful lines, extends the island of Patta, which 
 The Si u ^ kuew Very well from having visited it a year and 
 Canal; a a half before. In the north the continent of Africa 
 new p an. ^^^^^ boldly aloug, curviug into a series of bays. A 
 soft rain was rippling down, and wrapped all things in a mys- 
 terious grey tint. This invited us to the execution of a plan 
 which had appeared tempting to me already at Zanzibar, but 
 which I had not ventured seriously to contemplate. 
 
QUESTION OF LANDING THE COODH. 43 
 
 Whoever looks at the map will see that the Siyu Canal 
 nearly opposite the town of Patta, makes a wide cnrVe to the 
 north. We should have had to avoid the northern bend of this 
 
 3f[,i'<"" 
 
 Landi^'g i>; Shimbye. 
 
 canal if we had landed opposite Kwaihu. With a lull comple- 
 ment of porters this would have taken us three days to do, hut 
 with our limited supply would require at least six or seven. 
 But this northern bay is already bounded on the west by the 
 
44 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 sultanate of Witu. If we could enter it, unperceived, from 
 the Manda Baj-, the problem of evading the blockade 
 ade to be would be successfuUy solved this very day. I made 
 evaded. ^^ ^^^ mind to make use of the opportunity afforded 
 me, by the secure possession of three dhows, to carry this plan 
 into execution. Forward, therefore, with a good wind, to the 
 west ! The two front dhows lowered their sails to obey this 
 new order of proceeding ; and then we rushed along, at about 
 the same latitude. Opposite Siyu we inclined to the north, 
 and at four in the afternoon, drenched to the skin, we cast 
 anchor at Mbaja. I had the little dhow unloaded at once, as 
 I wished to send it back immediately to the ship with Herr 
 Borchert ; meanwhile we established ourselves comfortably at 
 Mbaja. 
 
 I had intended to cross that very night to Shimbye in the 
 
 sultanate of Witu ; but the complete state of exhaustion of 
 
 captains and crews alike compelled me somewhat to 
 
 *"'°" delay these proceedings. We supped on a little cold 
 meat, put a sufficient iiumber of soldiers into the dhows, and 
 at half-past seven o'clock all went to sleep ; but our rest was 
 uncomfortably disturbed by the continual leaking of the rain 
 through the roof of the negro hut. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning Herr Borchert, with four 
 soldiers to guard the possession of the dhow, returned to 
 Kwaihu Bay. At half-past five Lieutenant-Captain Rust and 
 I had all the things stowed in the third dhow, and all the 
 Passage to people placed in the two others, which floated deep in 
 Shimbye. ^jjg ^^ter and were crowded ; and at sunrise we again 
 put to sea. iEolus was gracious to us ; the sun shone 
 pleasantly, and already at half-past seven we were able to cast 
 anchor at Shimbye. The place itself lies some twelve minutes 
 from the anchoring-ground. I went at once into the village ; 
 found that it was admirably suited to our purpose ; secured 
 the hire of a few houses from the elder ; and went back to the 
 strand to superintend the landing of our effects. This business 
 was continued till about twelve o'clock, and furnished a very 
 lively and, for us, an exceedingly satisfactory spectacle. When 
 
A PROSPEROUS CONCLUSION. 
 
 45 
 
 everything had been landed, 1 went back into the village to 
 take in hand the stowing of the baggage, while Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust remained on the shore. The porters safe arri- 
 ran to and fro ; and by two o'clock in the afternoon g^itanate 
 of June 17th everything was snugly housed at Shim- of'Witu. 
 bye, in the sultanate of Witu, under the flag of Fumo Bakari 
 that waved above us. 
 
•■#■ 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE SULTANATE OF WITU. 
 
 " But wildly did tliey fare, — 
 I fear 'twill rend ; — 
 God makes not the account 
 
 At each week's end.' 
 
 Goethe. 
 
 
 THE impediment of brute force offered 
 by the blockade had thus been 
 o\ ercome ; and the task of conquering 
 this difficult}' had not been a very difficult 
 if^*/''y out- A little cool calculation and, above 
 
 * ' , ^ - " all, complete discretion had been sufficient to 
 A ^ ' stultil} the prophecies of friends and foes in 
 
 ■ \ Success of Zanzibar. There the C4erman Emin Pasha 
 
 •■'•' mand°ert Ex])edition had already been looked upon 
 
 plan. as a lamentable failure, and there had been 
 rejoicing over the i'act. But the English had been too con- 
 fident of success, Miiich in general appears to me to be a 
 national fault ^Yith them, and one that may some day cost 
 
THE EXPEDITION AT SHIM BYE. 47 
 
 them dear ; and so the Ne(£ra, in spite of four English 
 ships of war, had happily run into the northernmost ba.y 
 of the system of the Lamu harbours. The consciousness 
 of having prevented this ignominious stifling of the conflicting 
 expedition at Zanzibar was naturally calculated to call feelings, 
 forth in us a certain feeling of triumph. But, on the other 
 hand, the position in which we were now placed was scarcely of 
 a kind to keep alive in me feelings of satisfaction. 
 
 I had landed, all in all, at Shimbye, some sixty porters and 
 twenty- seven soldiers. With these, on June 17th, I had in 
 the first place to confront the task of getting more than two 
 hundred and fifty loads of ammunition and other stores to Witu, 
 in the face of the British fleet. That in the event of further 
 violence on the part of the English I was entirely desti- 
 tute of rights, I understood perfectly well. Moreover, hostile in- 
 so long as I remained on the coast I was not safe for a 
 moment in my own camp from the danger of a visit of English 
 marines. Though I had been obliged to make use of stratagem 
 against the English ships of war, I was certainly resolved to 
 employ the means far more sympathetic to me, the ris vim 
 vi expellit, in opposing any such violence by land. But the 
 position of the German Emin Pasha Expedition was hardly 
 improved by this resolution. 
 
 At Shimbye I was obliged to wait for a few days to give 
 the whole column a little rest. The people were greatly ex- 
 hausted by the hardships of the sea passage. It was also 
 requisite thoroughly to clean the arms, which had suffered 
 greatly from the sea water, to mount the gun, and Doings at 
 to take the tent-loads to pieces. In addition I had to shimbye. 
 wait for news from Herr Borchert, and the dhow, with the 
 remainder of our things from the Necera. With regard to 
 these things I had directed that everything which falls under 
 the designation of " merchandise " should, according to the 
 permission given me by Fremantle, go to Lamu, from whence 
 I could have it delivered to me on the continent by means 
 of nine camels I had formerly bought at Aden, and that were 
 now stationed at Lamu; that, on the contrary, everything 
 
48 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 which fell under the designation of " contraband of war " and, 
 consequeutl}^ under the regulations of the blockade, should 
 be brought to me by dhow to Shimbye, which lies to the 
 Measures north of the blockade line. On June 18th, Herr 
 ing'thr' Friedenthal arrived at Shimbye with this portion of 
 stores, etc. ^jjg things. Herr Borchert sent me word that he had 
 considered it better for his part to go to Lamu with the goods 
 intended for barter than personally to superintend the loading 
 of the camels. Already before the arrival of Herr Friedenthal 
 from Shimbye, on June 18th, I had put myself in communica- 
 tion with Herr von Tiedemann and Herren Toeppen and Gustav 
 Eeport to Deuhardt in Lamu. On that day I wrote a report to 
 Germany. Germany, which, with regard to Jackson's expedition, 
 concluded with these words : " We will just see if the English, 
 with all the start they made, have overtaken us." My whole 
 attention during the next few days was directed to procuring 
 additional porterage power. For this purpose I betook myself 
 on June 19th to Wanga, with a few people. Close by the shore 
 there I found a house which had quite a European character. 
 I entered, and found in it Herr Schonert, an official of Herr 
 Visit to Denhardt. He received me kindly, and at once pointed 
 "Wanga. q^^ ^q me, in the bay before his windows, a ship well 
 known to me, the Boadicea of Admiral Fremantle, which 
 had arrived shortly before. At one o'clock in the day Herr 
 Schonert accompanied me back to Shimbye, and here I had the 
 agreeable surprise of seeing Herr von Tiedemann, who, on 
 receiving the news of our landing, had at once betaken him- 
 self with Toeppen, Denhardt, and Gerstaecker on board a dhow, 
 to seek us in the environs of Kwaihu Bay. It was somewhat 
 late before they discovered us at Shimbye. Already before ray 
 Exaggerat- letters arrived at Lamu rumour had carried thither 
 ed reports. ^]^g announcement of our landing. But with what 
 exaggeration ! A thousand Germans were reported to" have 
 landed in Kwaihu Bay, and there was great excitement among 
 the white and black population. To my sorrow I soon con- 
 vinced myself that my hope of procuring porters through Herr 
 Toeppen had little chance of being realised. But I arranged 
 
A VERY DIFFICULT POSITION. 49 
 
 with him that he should undertake the fitting out of my ex- 
 pedition, with suitable articles of barter, for the Tana route. 
 I had caused ninety-six loads of articles of barter to be brought 
 together from Zanzibar in view of a Tanga-Massai Articles of 
 route. I was at that time still possessed with the ''*'^*"' ®**- 
 traditional views of African travel, that it was necessary to 
 provide, with the most anxious care, a selection of articles of 
 barter for each separate route, suited to the tastes of the 
 inhabitants of the districts through which a man would pass, 
 if he wanted to travel at all in Africa. 
 
 Accordingly I arranged with Herr Toeppen that he should 
 take over the articles of barter I had brought with me, and 
 conveyed to Lamu. The part that could be used he was to 
 include in the collection to be made by him ; the rest uew ar- 
 he was to sell on the best terms he could get ; and rangements. 
 then, from his own camp, and from other wares that were to 
 be procured at Zanzibar, he should put together the articles I 
 should require on my route. 
 
 On this afternoon I also learned for the first time that 
 four English men-of-war were cruising in these waters without 
 any ostensible reason. But to me the reason was ostensible 
 enough ; and in consequence of this news I determined ^ hurried 
 to start with my expedition at once towards the departure, 
 south-west, to get away in the first instance from the vicinity 
 of the sea. Therefore on the same evening, at half-past five, I 
 sent my ammunition by the land road to Wanga, and in the 
 night, between eleven and twelve, I despatched a dhow laden 
 with provisions under Herr Friedenthal to Mgine. June 20th 
 and 21st afforded us the diverting sight of our dhows, with 
 the stores for the expedition, moving, in view of Admiral 
 Fremantle and the Boadicea, from Shimbye towards xte " Boa- 
 Mgine, at which place they all arrived in good con- "*"**•" 
 dition. The gentlemen perhaps took us for quite ordinary 
 slave dhows, which were not worth chasing, — especially as by 
 so doing the interests of their new friends of Patta or Manda 
 might be compromised. Certainly, the Boadicea was lying here 
 pursuant to the orders of the blockade, quite irrespective of 
 
50 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 US, to watch the dhow traffic with respect to contrahand of war, 
 ammunition, and slaves ; and the excuse that they could not be 
 aware that dhows were transported by sea to Mgine would 
 accordingly not have been valid. It was indeed a system of 
 surveillance calculated to inspire respect ! 
 
 On the morning of June 20th I myself went, in company 
 with Herren Toeppen, Denhardt, and von Tiedemann, with a 
 number of loads to "Wanga. On this day the Boadicea fired 
 many salutes, and had run up the Wali flag; a proof that Walls 
 were on board, my friend Buana Mse being probably among 
 them. In every case the fact of our landing must now 
 
 13'6CGSSltT 
 
 for quick be Undoubtedly known to the English. In spite of this, 
 judging from the proofs I had already had of their 
 vigilance, I resolved, as I wished to get matters concluded 
 quickly at Shimbye, to work that day with dhows also on the 
 sea. We got together three such dhows, two of which I sent 
 to Shimbye with new instructions for Lieutenant-Captain Rust, 
 keeping one for myself. 
 
 Besides this, behind the bushes which hid them from the 
 view of the English man-of-war, my people were all day long 
 carrying loads of ammunition for me from Shimbye to Wanga. 
 Rust put the remainder of the things in the two dhows sent to 
 him ; and on June 21st, by ten o'clock at night, the whole 
 The landing expedition had been transported to Mgine, from 
 atMgine. -^vhence the much frequented land road leads to Witu. 
 Already on this day, at nine in the morning, Herr Friedenthal 
 arrived with his dhow, then Herr Gerstaecker on one of the 
 two Shimbye dhows. The ammunition I did not send from 
 Wanga quite to Mgine, but landed it opposite Wanga on the 
 further side of a creek, under the supervision of Herren 
 Toeppen and Tiedemann, to have it carried from thence by the 
 land road to Mgine. This overland transport I superintended 
 myself, M'ith Herr Denhardt. I arrived M'ith about fifty loads 
 at Mgine, at half-past six o'clock, and at once sent the people 
 back to bring up the remainder, which Herr Tiedemann was 
 guarding, the same night. At ten o'clock, as we all sat in very 
 cheerful mood at supper in Mgine, to my great satisfaction 
 
ASSEMBLING OF THE EXPEDITION. 51 
 
 the last dhow arrived, under Lieutenant-Captain Rust ; and at 
 daybreak next morning I had everything deposited in safety 
 on shore, and immediately sent sixty loads of ammunition 
 further inland to Hindi, which was about nine miles distant. 
 
 I had selected Hindi as the spot where I would gather 
 together all the means and powers I possessed, and organise my 
 expedition. The place was situated some miles from 
 the sea, immediately behind Lamu, in the midst of a vous at 
 richly cultivated region, and appeared therefore to ^'''^" 
 fulfil all the conditions for my work of organisation. I betook 
 myself thither on the 23rd in company with Herren Denhardt 
 and von Tiedemann, while Lieutenant-Captain Rust once more 
 remained behind to superintend the reserves. Through the 
 whole of the 23rd, 24th, and 25th we worked to get all the loads 
 housed at Lamu ; in which business my camels, drawn from 
 Lamu on the morning of June 24th, proved themselves very 
 useful. 
 
 On June 25th, 1889, the whole expedition was assembled 
 at Hindi. I had the tents set up in the middle of the place, 
 my guns loaded, and the houses around occupied. On the 
 road towards Lamu, from which direction further forcible 
 proceedings on the part of the English were perhaps to be 
 expected, I had a guard maintained, day and night, to get 
 timely notice of any such movement. The gentlemen, however, 
 did not favour us with a visit. These last measures of mine 
 might appear exaggerated, if it were not taken into con- 
 sideration what feelings must have been awakened in us by 
 the events that had taken place, in the interval, at Lamu. 
 
 At that place Herr Borchert had arrived on June 20th 
 with the Necera, which had meanwhile suffered damage by sea. 
 On the way it had almost appeared as if the Necera must go 
 to pieces. They had been obliged to cast out the The 
 sheet anchor ; and the captain advised Borchert to be brought to 
 prepared for the worst. Nevertheless on June 20th, on '"">''• 
 the day when from Herr Borchert's window I was, with peculiar 
 interest, watching through a telescope the proceedings on board 
 the English flagship Boadicea, the Necera reached the harbour 
 
.32 .V^ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of Lamu. As she ran in she was met by a pinnace from the 
 English ship of war Mariner-, whose officer called up from the 
 boat, " Where is Dr. Peters ? " The question was asked in a 
 tone as if the officer were enquiring, not whether I was at 
 Zanzibar or in the interior, but in the cabin or on the quarter- 
 deck. The more startling, accordingly, was Herr Borchert's 
 answer, "Dr. Peters .P Dr. Peters is gone into the interior, to 
 Emin Pasha." Next morning Fremantle himself appeared, and 
 summoned the captain of the Necera. To our general regret we 
 heard at Hindi that Admiral Fremantle had been very angry 
 indeed in the presence of the captain. We were told he gave 
 manifest signs of considerable disturbance of spirit. For five 
 days, he exclaimed, he had been cruising in these miserable 
 waters with three men-of-war, the Boadicea, the Mariner, and 
 the Cossack, for the sole purpose of intercepting us — for five 
 days, five days! And now, after all ! — Poor Admiral Fremantle! 
 We all pitied him sincerely. But from his anger — which 
 appeared to me personally somewhat inexplicable, inasmuch 
 as he had given permission for the Necera to land at Lamu 
 provided neither I nor ammunition were on board — there 
 were evolved in him manly resolutions, which promised him 
 satisfaction. 
 
 The two following letters should be read by those who 
 would form an opinion of what occurred at Lamu subsequently 
 to June 20th. They were written in English, and I herewith 
 give them : — 
 
 " Bagamoyo, June dth, 1889. 
 
 " Your ExcELLENcr,— I have the honour kindly to inform 
 Your Excellency that I shall most likely have to send the 
 Necera to Lamu. 
 
 " According to the promise kindly given by Your Excel- 
 lency to me, that you will raise no objections to my doing so in 
 case there are neither arms and war ammunitions nor my own 
 person on board, I kindly beg from Your Excellency to instruct 
 the commander of H.M.S. at Lamu of my intention. 
 
 " I probably shall send to Lamu either Herr Borchert or 
 
CORRESPONDENCE WITH ADMIRAL FREMANTLE. 53 
 
 Herr Friedenthal or both, and this will be about from June 
 25th to 30th. With the expression of my sincere respect, 
 " I remain Your Excellency's most obedient Servant, 
 
 " (Signed) Carl Peters." 
 
 " BoADiCEA " AT Zanzibab, June 11th, 1889. 
 
 " Sir, — I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your 
 letter of the 9th instant, informing me of your intention to send 
 the Necera to Lamu, but that in accordance with what I men- 
 tioned in our recent interview you would not go yourself, and 
 no arms or ammunition would be on board the ship. 
 
 " Under the above circumstances I shall not object to the 
 Neoera going to Lamu, and I will give instructions to our 
 blockading ship accordingly ; but her proceedings there will be 
 watched, and I shall direct that she is ordered to quit the port 
 if anything whatever is being done or suspected which would at 
 all be liable to create disturbance or injure the British Imperial 
 East Africa Company. 
 
 " It would tend to remove suspicion if you were to make a 
 candid statement of the object for which the Necera is required 
 to go to Lamu. 
 
 " I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient Servant, 
 
 " Feemantle, Vice-Admiral. 
 
 " To De. Gael Petees, Bagamoyo." 
 
 This letter of Admiral Fremantle I did not receive until 
 afterwards at Witu, and was consequently unable to send an 
 earlier reply. To further elucidate the position I also append 
 the following letter : — 
 
 " Lamu, June ilst, 1889. 
 
 "To OSKAR BOECHEET, EsQ., 
 
 " Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, Lamu. 
 
 " Sir,— I have the honour to inform you that I have received 
 order from Arbuthnot, Commander of H.M.S. Mariner, to pre- 
 vent the ss. Necera from landing the cargo consigned to the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition in Lamu. 
 
 "I further have to state that I have examined every 
 
o4 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 package, and hereby certify that I have found neither arms 
 nor ammunition nor powder amongst them. 
 " I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 " (Signed) D. E. Egberts, Seaman H.M.S. ' Mariner .'" 
 
 When, on June 23rd, I arrived at Hindi, Herr Oskar 
 Borchert had come over in person from Lamu, to report to me 
 on the contents of this letter. The matter no longer formally 
 concerned me, as already in Kwaihu Bay I had transferred to 
 Herr Borchert the right of directing the movements of the 
 Neoera, and had left the articles of barter which were on board 
 the steamer, as already stated, at the disposal of Herr Oust 
 Toeppen, at Shimbye. Nevertheless I was naturally materially 
 a£fected by these occurrences, inasmuch as I was anxious, from 
 financial considerations, to get a fresh charter for the Neoera as 
 soon as possible, and, on the other hand, Herr Toeppen was 
 going to furnish my new equipment for the expedition partly 
 from the articles of barter I had surrendered to him. Conse- 
 quently I gave Herr Borchert new instructions for his conduct 
 in the affair, and hoped, looking at the concluding sentence of 
 Roberts's letter, that it would be quickly settled. Accordingly, 
 who shall describe my astonishment when on June 24th Herr 
 Borchert sent me a copy of the following letter :— 
 
 " H.M.S. ' Mariner,' at Lamu, 
 
 June 22nd, 1889. 
 "To OsKAE Borchert, Esq., 
 " Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. 
 
 "Sir, — Acting under orders from the naval Commander- 
 in-Chief in these waters, and in consideration of the existing 
 blockade of this part of the coast of Africa, I have to inform 
 you that the stores at present on board your ship for Dr. Carl 
 Peters cannot be landed at this place, or at any other part 
 within or adjacent to that part of the coast which is at present 
 under blockade. Those stores now in a lighter alongside your 
 ship must be taken on board again, and you are to quit the port 
 as soon as this is accomplished. I shall send an officer and an 
 armed party on board to support you in carrying out this order. 
 
THE ARTICLES OF BARTER. 55 
 
 The officer will accompany you to Zanzibar, in order to!seethat 
 the stores are not landed at any other port on this part of the 
 coast. His passage to that place will be taken and paid for. 
 " (Signed) Charles E. Arbuthnot, 
 
 " Commander." 
 
 This order was apparently the means adopted by Admiral 
 Fremantle of airing his displeasure at the landing in Kwaihu 
 Bay. I may emphasise only one point — that in the matter of 
 the confiscated goods there was no question of the equipment 
 for my expedition, but simply of merchandise, from which Herr 
 Toeppen was going to select articles of barter for its use, and 
 which I might in any case hope, at least in part, to find procur- 
 able in the stores at Lamu itself. Thus the proceeding „ . ^ 
 
 r o Borchert 
 
 of Admiral Fremantle was evidently not so much in- and the 
 tended for a blow at the German Emin Pasha Expedition 
 as for a means of expressing his anger at what he had not been 
 able to prevent. Enough to say, twenty-five English marines 
 were sent on board the Neoera, the steamer's engine was de- 
 molished, and the vessel itself towed to Zanzibar. As afterwards 
 became manifest, the course of the expedition was considerably 
 altered in consequence of this measure. After a few weeks it 
 was found that the articles of barter required for the Massai 
 country were not to be had at Lamu, and in the course of the 
 following months it became manifest that I should never be 
 put in possession of the new articles procured from Zanzibar, 
 which Lieutenant-Captain Rust was to bring after me. The 
 English succeeded in bringing it about that the German Emin 
 Pasha Expedition acquired a character that differed in every 
 way from that of usual African travels. But they were not 
 able to thwart the undertaking, or even essentially to weaken its 
 action ; and in looking back upon these events during the course 
 of the expedition, the biblical text frequently came into my mind: 
 " Ye thought evil against me, but God meant it unto good." 
 
 Practically these proceedings of Fremantle's had the effect 
 of entirely removing from the sphere of my action, for the whole 
 further course of the expedition, Herr Oskar Borchert, whom 
 I had intended to take part in it in closest contiguity to myself. 
 
56 A'filF LIGHT ON J)ARK AFRICA. 
 
 He was obliged to go to Zanzibar, because I was determined to 
 defend myself with the utmost seriousness against this clums)' 
 
 jj^^ infringement of rights on the part of the English. 
 
 "Necera" There he prosecuted with effect the so-called Neoera 
 lawsuit, which, so far as I have ascertained, awakened 
 general interest throughout the whole of Europe, and of which 
 I give a few particulars in the Appendix. Not until the con- 
 clusion of the suit was Herr Borchert able to lead the second 
 column of the expedition up the Tana. 
 
 To this first blow which fell upon me at Hindi was soon 
 added a second, in the painful consciousness that it would not 
 be possible for me to increase my force of porters in the Witu 
 Difficulty of territory, in such a manner as to let me hope that I 
 procaring should be able to carry up the Tana, in one column, 
 
 porters. ./ j. ^ j 
 
 even the loads that I had remaining. The Suaheli of 
 Witu and Lamu has not the enterprising spirit possessed by the 
 Wangwana on the German East African coast. There is no 
 idea of any intercourse, by means of caravans, with the interior, 
 and thus it was only one by one that candidates appeared to 
 take part in my expedition ; and those who came were not just 
 the best of their tribes. All kinds of disreputable rabble ap- 
 peared, with the intention of getting -porter's pay for one or two 
 months in advance, and then running away. I could, more- 
 over, scarcely meet such fraudulent proceedings effectually in 
 those regions, because the only possible measure against them, 
 namely, that of putting suspected characters in chains, and 
 punishing such deserters as were captured with the most rigor- 
 ous severity, could not, from political considerations, be here 
 put into practice. The highest number of porters I ever 
 nominally had under my authority amounted to about ninety; 
 but in reality we probably never possessed more than seventy 
 porters. I was, therefore, the more anxious to strengthen my 
 camel column, and to supplement the deficient carrying power 
 by the purchase of asses. I succeeded in bringing my column 
 of camels up to seventeen head, and in purchasing nine donkeys. 
 Thus it was clear that I might not hope to convey all my loads 
 at one time up the Tana. I was obliged to divide the expedition 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE MARCH. 57 
 
 into two columns, the second of which I placed under the 
 command of Lieutenant-Captain D. Rust. He was to organise 
 a boat expedition on. the Tana, and to join me again . . . 
 in Oda-Boru-Ruva, with the loads left behind, and the expedi- 
 especially the articles of barter expected from Zanzibar. *^'"*' 
 As it was not possible to strengthen myself with new porters 
 among the Suahelis, I now put my hope in the Wapakomo or 
 Gallas on the Upper Tana, where this attempt might perhaps 
 succeed, and where, in any case, I should be in a position, in 
 case the articles of barter from Zanzibar reached me, to equip a 
 caravan of asses, and with these to get to the Equatorial Province. 
 These were the hopes that animated me in Hindi and Witu, and 
 in accordance with which I made my resolutions. How small a 
 portion of them was destined to be fulfilled in the end ! 
 
 On the other hand, a thing completely accomplished in Hindi 
 was the ordering of the burdens. The portion of the water 
 that had been spoilt was reiected ; the rest was accu- 
 
 . . Porterage 
 
 rately booked, and divided betweeu the two columns, arrange- 
 From LamuHerr Toeppen sent in all about thirty loads ™*" °' 
 of powder, biscuit, lucifer matches, and woven stuffs, all very 
 useful things, only that none of them were of any value for the 
 route I had selected through the Massai lands, as here nothing 
 will pass current but iron, and copper wire, and beads. On the 
 whole I estimated the loads my column was to carry up at about 
 a hundred and fifty, and left behind with Lieutenant-Captain 
 Rust the same number, to be brought up after me. Herr von 
 Tiedemann was to go up in my company. 
 
 Besides these obvious labours, I especially occupied myself 
 at Hindi in disciplining and organising my originally very 
 disorderly column. As I was compelled to begin the ^.^^. ^_ 
 march into the interior without any real articles of ing the 
 barter, I could not pay my way, as Thomson and other "'""P^'^y- 
 people were accustomed to do, by giving tribute to the native 
 chiefs ; therefore the discipline of my people, and the control I 
 could exercise over them, became of the very greatest conse- 
 quence for the success of the undertaking. If I could not 
 carry out the German Emin Pasha Expedition in the usual 
 
58 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 peaceable fashion, as I had originally hoped to do, I must face 
 the fact that I might ultimately be compelled to organise our 
 column as a warlike band. Now it is a well-known physical 
 law, that the effect of a power may be increased quite equally 
 in one of two ways — either by the augmentation of the mass, 
 or by the increase of velocity. To increase the mass of my 
 troops, looked upon as a warlike force, was not in my hand ; 
 the possibility of increasing their quickness or availableness 
 depended solely upon the carrying out of an unwavering dis- 
 cipline. To attain this, I had to turn my attention principally 
 to the Somalis of the column, by means of whom, if I got them 
 well in hand, I could carry out a thorough physical authority 
 over the porterage element, which was made up chiefly of 
 Thena- Central Africans. Such African masses of men can 
 thlirm^n- ^^^J ^^ ^^P^ i^ control by a determination uncom- 
 ners. promisingly to carry out one's own will in the teeth of 
 all opposition. I, too, have found this the only thing that makes 
 an impression upon one's own people. The so-called Bwana 
 Wasari (good masters) will not, under critical circumstances, 
 possess the authority which is necessary to carry an expedition 
 safely through the vicissitudes and dangers of the elements and 
 ol warfare. The impression I should recommend leaders of 
 expeditions to aim at producing must be the verdict of the 
 people : "Kali sana laikini hodari sana " (Very strict but very 
 thorough). By this feeling in separate things there is woven 
 in time around the leader and his followers an almost demo- 
 niacal bond, which is sufficiently strong to withstand the crises 
 and catastrophes in a life of African travel. The Somalis possess 
 Character gi'eat Sensibility, and if they are properly managed, and 
 mails* ^''" *^^^^ prejudices are respected, they are easy to lead. 
 Of course, with them also, one must not think to manage 
 matters entirely on the lines of the " point of honour." In the 
 course of the expedition I had even for my Somalis to introduce 
 corporal punishment, and to inflict it rigorously. 
 
 The development of all this, which naturally could only evolve 
 itself during the Course of the expedition, was already begun 
 during the week we spent at Hindi. It was a wonderful time 
 
EXPERIENCE THE BEST TEACHER. 59 
 
 of cares, labours, plans, and hopes. The tardy rainy season 
 poured whole waterspouts down upon us every day ; and it was 
 seldom that the sun shone upon us, as we laboured The rainy 
 at the burdens. In these days I had caused a saddle- '^='''"'- 
 horse to be bought for me in Lamu, and repeatedly rode out on 
 excursions in the environs of Hindi. I rode for hours along 
 the way to Lamu, until I saw before me the peculiar dune of 
 that place. I knew that if I went into Lamu I should run the 
 risk of personal arrest. I had the feeling that banished men 
 may experience, of being cut off from Europe and my home. 
 For me there was only one thing : 
 
 " To westward, oh, to westward yet, 
 My gallant bark, speed on ; — 
 Dying, my heart's last wish shall greet 
 The land I would have won." * 
 
 There was no thought of turning back. Whether the goal 
 of our desires could be reached appeared at Hindi more than 
 improbable. But then there was only one fate for us all — 
 destruction ! Thus a peculiarly mournful and emotional tone 
 characterised these our first days on the continent of Africa. 
 There was only one consolation, that of bowing the soul entirely 
 under the mysterious dispensations of Providence. 
 
 On Wednesday, July 3rd, I at length set out from Hindi, 
 having the day before received my articles of barter from 
 Lamu. I wished first to lead my column as far as „, 
 
 •' The start 
 
 Witu, and there to wait for the second column under from 
 Rust, and the first march was to be only seven miles, 
 as far as the place called Kibokoni. First, I had the camels 
 loaded ; then the asses received their burdens. How clumsily 
 the whole work was still managed is shown by the fact that it was 
 ten o'clock before we had completed this business. At a later 
 period of the expedition, the loading of the camels and asses 
 was always finished by six o'clock in the morning. Everything 
 has to be learnt, especially the leading of an African expedi- 
 tion. That I had still something to learn in this respect was 
 
 * From " Columbus," a poem by Luisa Brachmann.- — Tr. 
 
60 
 
 NEW LltiflT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 mauii'estcd b_y mj'self, in the fact that after the beasts of burden 
 had been loaded, I marched oft' with them instead of waiting, 
 as I ought to have done, to be the very last to quit the camp, 
 especially on that day; and that I left to Lieutenant-Captain 
 Rust and Herren von Tiedemann and Friedenthal the task of 
 loading and superintending the porters. But I altered this as 
 early as the following day. 
 
 As my horse had been somewhat chafed by the saddle, I 
 
 JjOADINU THE (JAMELS. 
 
 marched on foot out of camp, at a (quarter past ten, on July Srd, 
 High and I may declare that I sallied forth in the best of 
 hopes. spirits. The landscape before me was richly planted 
 with wheat and mtama. The sun lit up held and woodland, and 
 now ] was at last, as it appeared, beginning in earnest the great 
 journey towards the west. It appeared that I was about to 
 frustrate definitely the calculations that had sought to nullity 
 my expedition at Zanzibar ; and this tilled me, during the whole 
 march, with a sort of joyous satisfaction. 
 
 This feeling-, however, was much diminished when 1 came 
 
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PORTERS. 61 
 
 to think over the result of this first day's march. Some of the 
 asses broke down under badly-packed loads ; but the greatest 
 failure was in the discipline of the porters. I had arrived at 
 Kibokoni at half-past twelve o'clock with the camels and a 
 small proportion of the porters, had immediately caused my 
 tent to be set up, ordered fires for cooking, and then waited for 
 Herr von Tiedemann and the rest of the caravan. Not a man 
 appeared. As corn for cattle and men was not to be had at 
 Kibokoni, I had sent at once to Hidio, distant about two miles, 
 to purchase grain. Towards half-past two Herr Friedrich, the 
 owner of the plantation there, appeared at my tent, 
 with the intelligence that he could supply us with ^me'''^'' 
 corn. I at once sent two camels to fetch it. Six ^*"''^'''' 
 o'clock came, and then at length Herr von Tiedemann arrived, 
 and reported that a portion of the carriers had disappeared, 
 or, in fact, had run away, manifestly because they objected 
 to carrying loads. Thus twenty loads had remained behind 
 at Hindi ; the other portion was on the way under Friedenthal. 
 I at once ordered two camels back to Hindi, and determined to 
 investigate the affair thoroughly next day. 'Herr von Tiedemann 
 had to return to Hindi next morning, and at noon brought the 
 last loads, with the news that there were no more porters at 
 Hindi. They must, therefore, have arrived at Kibokoni. 
 
 I now counted our loads over, with the list in my hand, 
 and ascertained afterwards that the porters were all actually 
 present. I then arranged the loads in three heaps, for camels, 
 donkeys, and porters respectively, and thought myself sure of 
 my affair when, at two o'clock, I gave the signal for Missing 
 marching onward to Mansamarabu. But again thirty ^°''^^- 
 porters' loads were left behind. The experiences of the previous 
 day had determined me for the present to take my position at 
 the rear of the column, and I accordingly sent Friedenthal 
 forward with the first loads and a few soldiers. The way from 
 Kibokoni to Mansamarabu leads through a creek which is not 
 passable for beasts of burden. The way for these leads round 
 the creek, and takes two hours, while on the direct road only 
 an hour to an hour and a half is required. After starting the 
 
62 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 porters I intended to march with the beasts of burden round 
 the creek. At three o'clock I had the camels put in motion, 
 and the neighbourhood was scoured for my porters. As a few 
 Deserting Continued to come in, I suspected the missing ones to 
 porters. ]jjg gj.j|2 g^^ Kibokoui, and accordingly left Tiedemann 
 behind with orders to bring the rest of the column by the 
 direct road to Mansamarabu, while I myself started with the 
 asses at four o'clock. Two miles short of the place some laden 
 asses broke down, and I had to return to Kibokoni. All this 
 was very discouraging. At five o'clock I was back in the aban- 
 doned camp. I immediately sent letters to the Rust column 
 at Hindi, and to Friedenthal at Mansamarabu, with orders to 
 verify the number of porters, and to send all that were present 
 to me. I then had my tent set up again, and passed a few 
 very uncomfortable hours, waiting with Herr von Tiedemann 
 for news. At eleven o'clock eighteen porters came from 
 Mansamarabu, whom I sent back loaded the same night, under 
 Herr von Tiedemann. 
 
 Friday, July 5th, broke dark and heavy with rain. Early 
 in the morning came thirty to forty porters, who carried the 
 rest of the things quickly away. Thus I was able to send off 
 the donkeys that morning with quarter-loads, and at half-past 
 New seven I mounted my horse and rode rapidly along 
 
 recruits, ^j^g longer road round the creek to Mansamarabu. 
 There I arrived at ten o'clock, completely wet through ; found 
 the gentlemen and all the loads waiting ; and immediately held 
 a general muster of the people. 
 
 The result showed that all the porters were present. It was 
 therefore manifest that on the previous day, also, a number of 
 men must have slunk away without loads. I made the porters 
 a speech, in which I told them that I knew the good people, and 
 also the bad ones ; that I was a good master to the good ones, 
 Bewards ^^* ^^^^"^ *° ^^^ ^^^ ones. I gave double pocho to 
 and punish-the men who had carried loads the previous night, and 
 
 ments. n i • • n • n • o ' 
 
 succeeded m identitymg a porter who, on July 3rd, had 
 thrown down his load in a maize field and run back to Hindi. 
 I had him laid in chains and flogged before all the people. In 
 
-,,'yH , ^ 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR CAMPING. 63 
 
 the same waj' a few other persons were punished, concerning 
 whom I could prove that they had carried no loads on the 
 previous day. I now announced to the porters a scale of 
 punishments, to be inflicted for running away, and for the 
 throwing down of loads. This communication, which was 
 made intelligible on the spot by a few examples, produced a 
 decided impression. I concluded this memorable display by 
 the distribution of a slaughtered ox and the meting out of a 
 measure of maize to each man. 
 
 At five o'clock in the evening I assembled the people again. 
 Not a man was missing. I made another short speech, in which 
 I communicated the following command : " Each morning at 
 half-past five o'clock, at the sound of the trumpet, 
 every man has to appear, ihen to each will be given muBtering, 
 his load, once for all. At a quarter before six the * "" 
 caravan is to take the road in due order of march. On arriving 
 in camp every load is to be given up, when it is to be verified 
 by the list if a man or a load is missing. Each load is num- 
 bered, and each porter has his load, which is noted in the list 
 for the day." 
 
 I have chronicled these arrangements in detail because, after 
 their introduction on July 5th, essential order reigned in the 
 caravan. The success of the expedition depended in a great 
 measure upon the maintenance of this order. Some amount of 
 time was still requisite before my expedition had so accustomed 
 itself to this order as to march, to a certain extent, by itself. 
 
 Our camp at Mansamarabu presented an exceedingly 
 picturesque appearance. Our three tents had been set up in a 
 glorious park, under splendid mango trees and baobabs. Before 
 my tent, which stood in the centre, the German flag ^^^ ^^ 
 waved on the right, and, so long as we were in the Mansa- 
 sultanate of Witu, the flag of Sultan Tumo Bakari on 
 the left — white and red, with a white pentagram in a red field. 
 Under the German flag the artillery was placed, guarded night 
 and day by a sentinel. Behind the tents, on the greens^yard, 
 camels, donkeys, and my Arabian horse grazed. Before them 
 the loads were piled up, likewise guarded by regular posts 
 
64 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of Somali soldiers. Behind these are the houses in which the 
 porters are lodged, in many cases with their trim young wives, 
 — strong, robust figures, contrasting advantageously with the 
 Suahelis of Witu. The rain of the morning had passed over, 
 and we were sincerely sorry that there was no painter present 
 to perpetuate the sunny scene by a sketch. 
 
 During that day Herr Friedrich from Hidio was with us 
 again, and very obligingly related for our benefit his experiences 
 of the country and people. On the following morning I was 
 Order of obliged to leave Herr von Tiedemann behind, as it 
 maroii. appeared that we had taken eight loads too many of 
 guns with ammunition from Rust's camp at Hindi, and had no 
 porters to carry them. But I had the great satisfaction of 
 seeing that the last porter marched with his load at six o'clock ; 
 that at seven the artillery followed, dragged by two Gallas; and 
 that in the course of certainly two hours more donkeys and 
 camels went away loaded. I brought up the rear on horseback, 
 with my two dogs. Our way led through a flat country, to 
 which its flora imparted a very peculiar character. I soon rode 
 past the beasts of burden, which I knew to be under the direc- 
 tion of trustworthy Somalis, and was alone in the wilderness. 
 Recollections and pictures of my childhood's days arose before 
 me involuntarily in this charming, blooming landscape, which 
 is overgrown with a shrub that reminded me forcibly of our 
 heath-plant, and on which bees and butterflies were hovering. 
 Not a sound breaks the solemn silence. Above me the blue 
 vault of heaven is spread out, under which an eagle soars at 
 intervals in sweeping circles. Thus I ride onward through the 
 Scenery Saturday afternoon. My dogs soon get tired of hunt- 
 and sur- ing through the open field and searching for game in 
 
 roundingB. . ° . 7 ^ i i • n i , • 
 
 vam, so they trot along behmd my horse, and give 
 the soul leisure for quiet contemplation. At about two 
 o'clock I ride past Pemba, where the ground assumes a heavy 
 character, and maize and wheat-fields appear, ranged side by 
 side. Here I dismount for a moment, let my horse and my 
 dogs have some water, and inquire about the state of provisions 
 at Funga Sombo ("Tie thy bundle"), the goal of our march 
 
A MARCH THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 65 
 
 for to-day. The required information is cheerfully given, and 
 I ride further, following the track of the artillery. At a 
 quarter to three o'clock the road leads past Massivatato ("the 
 three lakes"), and a quarter of an hour later I am hailed with 
 joyous shouts by my porters, who have already found quarters, 
 and of their own accord come to meet me with fruits. As 
 they had done their duty to-day, I caused another ox to be 
 slaughtered, and the meat to be distributed among them. 
 
 The evening was passed in preparations for the following 
 day's heavy march of seven or eight hours, the first real 
 achievement for the heavily-laden caravan. I secured 
 
 ■' . On the 
 
 a lew more porters to assist, and commanded the march to 
 .march for Sunday, July 7th, to begin at five in the 
 morning. At that hour the call of the trumpet resounded 
 through the village, and immediately after the porters gathered 
 together beside their loads, which they now already knew. 
 At a quarter to six the last porter was with Herr Friedenthal 
 on the road to Witu ! At half-past six the camels and donkej^s 
 marched away with the last packages. I was just going to 
 mount my horse, when it was announced to me that there 
 were people from Conumbi, who wanted to sell me a camel. 
 It took half-an-hour to conclude the bargain. I wrote a longer 
 letter to Herr von Tiedemann, to whom I sent the purchased 
 camel, so that it was half-past seven o'clock before I myself 
 followed my caravan. But in an hour's time I overtook the 
 donkeys, and soon afterwards the camels, which I could for 
 the time leave behind me, as they were under secure guard. 
 I rode forward, and once more the solemn gloom of the wilder- 
 ness surrounded me. This time it was a wilderness indeed. 
 The Sultan of Witu had well understood how to secure his seat 
 thoroughly from attack. In Funga Sombo, in 1855, stood the 
 Arab advanced posts. From that place to Witu the swamp 
 way leads for hours through swamp and forest. The *°* '""'*• 
 solitude is the more impressive, as it is not broken even by the 
 cry of a wild animal. I had been told at Funga Sombo that 
 the region abounded with lions and panthers, and that only a 
 few days before a man had been devoured in broad daylight 
 
 5 
 
(i6 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 by a lion ; so that I had already made up my mind to some 
 interesting occurrences. But not a solitary animal appeared. 
 There was, however, the less time for dreaming to-day, as I 
 had soon overtaken my porters, and had to give a few direc- 
 tions to Herr Friedenthal. So I fell back again, to personally 
 conduct the camels and donkeys through the swamp. To make 
 this practicable, I had to get a way made through the forest, 
 which took two hours to do. A camel fell down in the swamp, 
 and had to be unloaded, and then loaded afresh. Thus it was 
 The plain three o'clock in the afternoon before we reached the real 
 ofWitu. plain of Witu. Our approach to that place was made 
 manifest to us, in the first instance, by thirty soldiers of the 
 Sultan, who came to bid us welcome in their master's name. 
 
 About a mile from Witu I was greeted by Sheriff Abdallah, a 
 very cultured Suaheli, accompanied by Herr Doerfer, an official 
 of Herr Denhardt, who also bade me welcome. I sent the 
 caravan forward under our flag, and in charge of Herr Frieden- 
 thal, and determined for my part to wait for the camels, which 
 had again remained behind. But as soon as they appeared in 
 sight on the horizon I entered the smiling valley of Witu, in 
 company with Herr Doerfer. Here I found good heavy corn 
 ground, and the land was laid out in maize and wheat fields. 
 
 Witu itself lies on a slight ridge of hills, and is thoroughly 
 surrounded by a fastness of forest. The entrance to the place 
 Importance is by two gates strongly fortified, with sentries keeping 
 of Witu. gy^j.^ jj-g^^ ^^^ jj^y_ ^r.^^ j^g^g perhaps three thousand 
 
 inhabitants ; but, by the number of civilised Suahelis, the idea 
 is kept alive that the stranger is here in one of the centres of 
 East African life. The court does not afford the brilliant 
 aspect of that of Zanzibar, but makes a more satisfactory im- 
 pression through the general and patriarchal unanimity of its 
 constituents, and was to my mind more interesting, through 
 the elements of population that were new to me. Here types 
 of Gallas and Somali crowd among the Suaheli, and beside 
 these appear the strange head-dresses of the Waboni, and the 
 muscular forms of the Wapokomo. 
 
 Amidst an enormous thronging of the crowd, I rode into 
 
THE FERTILE COUNTRY OF WITU. 67 
 
 Witu. I noticed our flag hoisted in front of a house, and 
 learnt that the Sultan had put at the disposal of our people 
 four houses, and an ox for their entertainment. I re- „ , 
 
 Snltau 
 
 quested Herr Doerfer to ohlige me by going at once to rumo 
 Fumo Bukari, to report my arrival, to thank him, and 
 announce my intention of paying him a visit on the morrow. 
 Fumo Bukari conveyed to me the expression of his satisfaction 
 at my arrival, and his desire that I should always make him 
 acquainted with my wishes, for that I was a welcome guest, 
 and he would be glad to receive me to-morrow morning at 
 nine o'clock. When I had seen my people settled, I went with 
 Herr Doerfer to his country house, which was about twelve 
 minutes distant, to seek a place wherein to quarter the camels 
 and my horse. Meanwhile I had the tents set up in the largest 
 open square. After Herr Doerfer and I had taken a bath, we 
 returned to my tent, where we supped together in exceedingly 
 good spirits. 
 
 The sultanate of Witu, which I have traversed chiefly in a 
 direction from north to south, appears in its whole extent as 
 a very flat country, well cultivated here and there. g^.g^tjgtijg 
 In its northern part it is manifestly less fertile than of thewuu 
 
 . Ill J? • T. svdtanate. 
 
 in the southern portion, and probably no part or it has 
 the luxuriance that is found in southern districts, as, for 
 instance, in Usambara. The population, too, is generally poor. 
 Only in a few places did I find possessors of large herds, whose 
 property could be estimated at a hundred thousand rupees. 
 The native inhabitants generally present a feeble aspect, which 
 may be chiefly ascribed to insufficient nourishment. Especially 
 noticeable to persons coming from Zanzibar is the reversal of 
 the usual credit system, which is carried out to the smallest 
 detail. When I want to buy cocoa-nuts or any other trifling 
 article, I must first lay down the money on the table, and then 
 my purchase is handed over to me. If I order any work to be 
 done for me by an artisan, he demands payment in advance. 
 On the other hand, he himself takes each and every article 
 from the European, on credit. All this makes a very poor 
 impression. On the whole, I feel convinced that the productive 
 
68 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 power of the country might be verj- much increased if the 
 conditions of labour were more favourable. There can be 
 no question that the ground, at certain points, can produce 
 anything. The natural flatness of the country, with arms of 
 the sea intersecting it deeply everywhere, also presents favour- 
 able conditions for transport. If greater powers of capital were 
 brought to bear here, a very rapid development of culture 
 might be expected. The hopes, however, with which I once 
 regarded the back regions of Witu have proved to be entirely 
 erroneous. Witu is nothing more than an oasis in the great 
 East African steppe, thrusting a line of cultivation, along the 
 Tana, into the steppe itself. 
 
 On Monday, July 8th, I for the first time met the ruler of 
 this territory. The Sultan Fumo Bukari had fixed the hour 
 A grand of nine in the morning for my reception. I resolved 
 rec^eption ^^ ^jj-g gccasion, SO far as I possibly could, to show 
 council. ]^jjj^ tjig honour due to a prince acknowledged by Ger- 
 many. Consequently I caused my soldiers to march out, with 
 the German banner and the Sultan's flag at their head. They 
 were made to present arms when we entered the Sultan's house 
 and when we quitted it. The highest officials of the court, 
 Sheriff Abdallah, and the first officer of the Sultan's troop, 
 Omar Hamadi, came to fetch me ; the latter wore the uniform of 
 a Prussian officer of artillery. I had put two of my servants 
 into rich red Cavasse uniforms embroidered with silver ; they 
 had to follow me, bearing the presents for Fumo Bukari — a 
 handsomely gilded Arab sword, with a real Jehalla blade, and 
 two unused Dreysesch repeating guns of the newest construc- 
 tion, with three hundred cartridges. I was accompanied by 
 Herr Doerfer and Herr Friedenthal. The Sultan, on his part, 
 had about forty soldiers on guard to receive us, and welcomed 
 us surrounded by his whole court. His stone house, indeed, 
 made a very plain effect ; but the assembly did not materially 
 differ from the surroundings of the Sultan of Zanzibar on 
 similar occasions. 
 
 Fumo Bukari came as far as the door to meet me, and 
 conducted me to an armchair on the left of his raised seat ; 
 
PREPARING FOR THE START. 69 
 
 a chair similar to mine on his right being occupied by the heir 
 to the throne, a brother of the Sultan. Fumo Bukari is a man 
 of about forty, with a gentle, benevolent expression of r„„io 
 countenance. His conversation was in the Kiswahali f"''^"'^. 
 
 - -, . . declaration 
 
 language, and its subject was naturally the purpose of of friend- 
 my expedition, which the Sultan promised to further, ^^^' 
 so far as he could. At my request he at once granted me a 
 written order to his elders to forward Rust's column directly 
 to Witu. He also declared himself willing to furnish Tana 
 boats for me ; and in general he repeated his message of the 
 day before, that I was to let him know each of my wishes, for 
 that he was too good a German not to be ready to meet them 
 in every particular. 
 
 The audience lasted an hour, and during the rest of the day 
 the great men of the place hastened, one after another, to pay 
 their visits. Some of them were truly cultivated and dignified 
 men. The same evening I ordered my camels back to Hindi, 
 with the Sultan's letter, to bring up Rust's column to Witu. 
 
 On the following day I had the satisfaction of seeing Herr 
 Tiedemann arrive at Witu with the baggage that had been left 
 behind ; so that my own column was now reunited. I now 
 took the greatest pains to strengthen myself as much as 
 possible ; but it soon became apparent that porters were not 
 to be had at Witu in anything like sufficient numbers, prepara- 
 and that as a point of support to an expedition, the ^^'"^^ ^^^ 
 
 . . . ■ II precau- 
 
 country was not in any direction sufficient. I especially tionsfor 
 noticed how small was the knowledge of the territory * ^^'"' ' 
 of the Tana, and of the whole back districts of Witu generally. 
 The land resembles an island which has no communication at 
 the back. The intelligence, also, that I had obtained from a 
 few Gallas and Wapokomo in Witu, afterwards proved utterly 
 inaccurate, and indeed mendacious. So much was perfectly 
 clear at Witu, that I must seek other points of support for 
 carrying out my expedition, perhaps on the Upper Tana or 
 further in the interior, if I would hope to reach my goal, the 
 Equatorial Province. All this was not encouraging ; T often 
 had the feeling as if everything I arranged turned out against 
 
70 XE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 me, and eveiy day the doubt pressed heavily upon me, whether 
 it would not, after all, be better to give the affair up. Actuated 
 by these feelings I wrote on July 20th to the committee : — 
 
 "I have the honour on this occasion to repeat the declara- 
 tion I made from Alexandria, that I will carry on the under- 
 Eeport taking to the very utmost bounds of possibility. In 
 German ^^^ Summer of 1888 I maturely considered the ques- 
 committee. tion whether I should undertake the task. ^JVow that 
 heaven and earth seem to rise up against me, the committee 
 may be assured that I know my duty." 
 
 In the same report I added : — 
 
 " This one remark I still wish to make : If our expedi- 
 tion succeeds, I certainly believe that the almost overwhelming 
 opposition will, in fact, contribute to make it useful to Germany. 
 For England the whole course of events till now, the motives of 
 action being known, is plainly a humiliation. I do not believe 
 that this will be, or can be appreciated in Germany, — the whole 
 inimical press-manufacture from above and below will take care 
 of that; but in spite of this it is fortunate for us that the German 
 Emin Pasha undertaking has, after all, not succumbed to the 
 English counteracting efforts. And this much I will answer 
 for, that we shall not experience the fate of the English expe- 
 ditions into the interior. We may perish, but in somewhat 
 different fashion from Messrs. Jackson, Last, and Martin." 
 
 I had to remain waiting at Witu throughout almost the 
 whole month of July ; partly because I still hoped to procure 
 porters from Lamu, and furthermore because I heard that, in 
 stay at ^his mouth, there was no possibility of supporting even 
 ■^i*'^' a small expedition on the Tana. It was requisite to 
 buy corn from the Arabs on the coast, and to transport it for 
 me to Engatana, to convey it up the stream in boats, alongside 
 of the caravan, if I wished to undertake an advance in that 
 direction. All this required time. 
 
 The constituents of my expedition, as I at last made it up 
 by the exertion of all my forces, were as follows : 
 
 I. Sixteen camels. 2. Eight donkeys. 3. One riding horse. 
 4. Two dogs. 5. Eighty-five porters (on. paper : the worshipful 
 
CHEERFUL DAYS AT WITU. 71 
 
 porters from Witu, as a rule, took to their heels very soon after 
 receiving their payment in advance, which I was not able 
 fully to ascertain until the day before my departure). 
 6. Thirteen women— porters' wives, who only carried ofth?*'' 
 the private baggage of their lords. 7. Twenty-five *^p'*"^°°- 
 Somalis (twenty-one soldiers and four camel drivers*); of 
 these I took twelve soldiers and four camel drivers for my 
 column, the others remained for Lieutenant-Captain Rust. 
 
 8. Eight private servants (including cook's boys, cook, etc.). 
 
 9. I had engaged Hamiri, a Lamu man, as a guide. 
 
 With this force I had to move one hundred and fifty to 
 one hundred and sixty loads. At Witu this did not appear 
 a very difficult task ; but it soon became manifest how un- 
 certain transport by camels was. Already in Engatana I lost, 
 on the whole, six camels ; and on the Lower Tana the porters 
 also were quickly reduced by desertion to their original 
 number of sixty. While I lay encamped at Witu, Herr Clemens 
 Denhardt arrived there, with Herr von Karnap, Herr Gustav 
 Denhardt, and Herr Gerstaecker, whereby our social life 
 became a very lively and stirring one, especially as Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust also made his appearance during the second 
 week of my stay. These gentlemen were with us pieasant 
 almost every day, and in the evening the soldiers of intereoirse. 
 the Sultan, and also my Mangemas and Wangamwesi, used to 
 entertain us with war dances. I look back upon these weeks 
 at Witu with a kind of mournful pleasure. It was, in a certain 
 way, the last glimmer of European life that played around us. 
 Often during the expedition we looked longingly back on the 
 comfort and sociability which here for the last time brightened 
 our days. 
 
 * One of my camel-Somalis had committed suicide at Witu. One evening 
 he had stolen a sheep from me. Accordingly, the next morning I called the 
 Somalis together, and explained to them that I would have nothing to do 
 with thieves ; I should load the thief with chains, and in that condition send 
 him back to Aden to be punished. The Somahs declared themselves ready to 
 execute the order. When they approached the criminal he shot himself 
 through the head with the rifle, which he fired off with his toe. 
 
72 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 A veiy interesting and useful incident for me, during my 
 residence at ^Yitu, was the appearance of an embassy of the 
 Kawallala Somalis, which came to negotiate with the Sultan 
 concerning the opening of a free road of commerce towards 
 Wanga. These Kawallala Somalis dwell between Djuba and 
 Tana, and have of late also spread southward across the Tana 
 iTegotia- in their warlike expeditions. They press more and 
 commercial more upon the Gallas, who are compelled to retire 
 ""*^- step by step before them. It is like a powerful 
 flood, which will probably only be arrested by the strong dam 
 of the Massai kingdom. On the Lower Tana all tremble 
 before these tribes, and only the Witu sultanate itself forms 
 the strong rampart before which they stop. In view of the 
 breech-loaders of the Witu soldiers, these worthies, as we have 
 said, condescend to negotiation ; whereas, in general, they 
 simply take whatever they have a mind to. On July 10th 
 twenty-three warriors, under Sheriff Hussein, arrived at Witu. 
 On that day there was no milk to be had in Witu, because all 
 the Gallas, notwithstanding that they were under the protection 
 of the Sultan, had fled in panic terror into the woods, with 
 their herds, before the Somalis. 
 
 With us the Somalis endeavoured at once to enter into 
 friendly relations. At the news of their approach, my Man- 
 Friendiy gemas, my Central African porters, had rushed to 
 tions"onhe their weapons without orders, and my soldiers had 
 somahs. loaded the cannon to receive these wild visitors. Thus 
 our camp made a very warlike appearance when the Kawallala 
 went past ; and this did not fail to produce its effect. On 
 July 11th Sheriff Hussein also appeared with all his people, to 
 pay his respects and conclude a treaty of amity with me. He 
 said his tribe had heard of my landing at Kwaihu, and the 
 Sultan, Ali Nurr, had especially ordered him to convey to me 
 the friendship of this tribe. I assured him of the high 
 value I had always set on the friendship of the Somalis, and 
 added that it had been my intention to march through their 
 country, but that the way was shorter to my goal through 
 Witu ; that he was perhaps aware that the Somalis were not 
 
TREATY WITH SHERIFF HUSSEIN. 73 
 
 popular in Europe, but I hoped he had heard that I had always 
 been their friend, and had consequently already several times 
 sent expeditions to them. Sheriff Hussein replied, that this 
 was known to him and to all the Somalis, and therefore now 
 also they would help me. My enemies, he said, were theirs, 
 and whoever was my friend should be reckoned by the Somalis 
 as their friend likewise. I rejoined, that I hoped I conversa- 
 should not stand in need of help ; let him look at my sm"^ 
 arms and my artillery. It was strong enough to over- Hussein, 
 come every attack by force ; but what I wanted was stores- 
 oxen and camels. I knew that his tribe ruled over the 
 countries to the west, between Djuba and Tana. I was about 
 to ti-avel in that direction, and requested him to provide me 
 with cattle and camels for purchase, and with good guides to 
 the Kenia. Sheriff Hussein promise'd he would take counsel 
 with his people concerning these matters. 
 
 In the days next following we had various consultations, 
 and the result was that the Sheriff declared himself ready to 
 sell me five camels immediately, and to have more driven 
 together for my inspection. He declared himself especially 
 anxious, as he dwelt in the neighbourhood of Oda- Hussein-s 
 Boru-Ruva, that I should remain neutral in a cam-S^*'""' 
 paign against the English that he was planning. The ^"^"■"^y- 
 English, he declared, had shot one of his people, and it was 
 consequently a matter of honour that he should make war 
 upon them. That, therefore, was the reason why the Kawallala 
 afterwards scattered Mr. Smith's expedition. 
 
 I have never had to fight with the Somalis, and this I 
 attribute to the treaty of peace which was set up in writing 
 between me and Sheriff Hussein, and was concluded on the 
 last day of my stay at Witu ; wherein the Somalis expressly 
 acknowledged that they would recognise me not only as their 
 friend, but, if I demanded it, as their leader also. Several 
 times, when the affairs of our expedition on the Lower Tana 
 were in a desperate state, I entertained the idea of betaking 
 myself to these Somali tribes, in case things should come to 
 the worst, and to try if it were not possible to excite them to 
 
74 MEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 a march against the Massais, and lead them to Wadelai. The 
 further course of events happily obviated the necessity of 
 adopting this measure. 
 
 Sheriff Hussein is a tall and dignified figure of a man, with 
 an entirely European cast of countenance, sparkling eyes, and 
 Appearance prominent nose. His face is surrounded with a full, 
 aufhir^"^ close-cut beard. Like him, the other envoys of the 
 followers. Kawallala tribe were of slender and elastic build, re- 
 cognisable from afar by their haughty gait and cavalierlike 
 bearing ; born warriors and commanders ! They wore their 
 hair long, parted in the middle, and falling in ringlets upon their 
 shoulders, so that they had almost the appearance of wearing 
 full-bottomed wigs. They created an impression by their be- 
 haviour, similar to that made by the proud Elmoran of the 
 Massais. The presence of a certain courteousness in their 
 manner makes their inborn pride appear the more plainly. 
 On the day of my departure from Witu they performed a war- 
 dance to my honour, in which was expressed, in a very charac- 
 teristic way, the ultimate destruction of certain presumptuous 
 foes. 
 
 After various postponements I had at last fixed upon July 
 26th as the day of my departure. To secure a firm point of 
 support in Witu, and especially with a view to Rust's column, I 
 had invested Herr Clemens Denhardt with the management of 
 our expedition there, and had also opened a credit for him with 
 Pre ara Hansings at Zanzibar. I hoped that, before all things, 
 tions for Denhardt would get the loads of the Rust column sent 
 for me to Ngao on the Tana, and from thence by boat 
 up to Oda-Boru-Ruva, where I purposed to wait for the said 
 column. With respect to my own column, I had requested 
 Herr Clemens Denhardt to send me a hundred loads of corn, 
 and the necessary transport boats, to Engatana, to enable me 
 to lead my men along the course of the Tana. 
 
 On July 25th it was reported to me that the loads were 
 lying ready for me at Engatana ; and now there was no longer 
 any reason further to delay my departure from Witu. On that 
 day I parted from Herr Friedenthal, who wished to go back to 
 
READY FOR THE MARCH. 75 
 
 Zanzibar, and definitely appointed Herr von Tiedemann to my 
 column. With him alone I intended, in the first instance, to 
 march up to the Gallas on the Upper Tana, a territory which, 
 according to Ravenstein's maps, which we had before us, would 
 lie close to the eastern declivities of the Kenia. This after- 
 wards proved to be a very gross blunder. On July 25th my 
 column was quite ready for the march ; all loads were packed, 
 and according to the estimated amount of my carrying Prosperous 
 powers, I had even reserve porters at my disposal, l^^^^^'^^^ 
 My Somalis were under good discipline, and nine of column, 
 them were armed with repeating rifles, for which I carried with 
 me two thousand rounds of ball cartridge. For my little bush- 
 piece J had one hundred rounds of grapeshot and the same 
 number of bombshells. I myself carried a capital express rifle 
 by H. Lenne, in Berlin, with Mauser cartridges, besides a double 
 shot gun, a Lancaster repeater, and a six-barrelled revolver. 
 Herr von Tiedemann was armed in the same way. The rest 
 of my Somalis and my private servants and a few reliable 
 porters I armed with breech-loaders, for which I had un- 
 fortunately allowed myself to be persuaded in Europe to take 
 •cartridges with paper cases. Besides this, every porter carried 
 a serviceable muzzle-loader, and for these I had five Efficient 
 loads of cartridges, and in case of need five hundred *""=''°«"i*' 
 pounds of powder, which I had certainly, in the first instance, 
 brought with me for Emin Pasha. Thus, small as our number 
 was, we were well enough equipped ; and if I could only manage 
 fully and properly to discipline this column, and if the neces- 
 sary resolution and prudence in the leading of it, on which 
 everything principally depended, were not wanting, I might 
 venture to push forward into the land of the Somalis and Gallas, 
 and whatever might lie behind them. 
 
 To do this I was now resolved ; and on the afternoon of 
 July 25th I took my leave of Fumo Bukara, to whom I declared : 
 " Nitapeleka bandera ako katika barani " — " I shall carry your 
 flag into the wilderness." In the evening all the Europeans in 
 Witu were assembled at my quarters to celebrate our leave- 
 taking once more. The Somalis had organised a great dance 
 
76 
 
 A7:ir 1.I(;I1T (IX DAIIK AFlirCA. 
 
 on the space in front of my tent in honour of this partini;-, the 
 melodies ol' which have also accompanied me throughout the 
 exjieditiiin. Early on tlie morning of July 2f)th the trumpet 
 sounded through the streets of Witu, summoning my people to 
 the march, and shortly after six o'clock Herr von Tiedemanu 
 led forth the porters into the steppe which divides the sultanate 
 ||f^Vitu from the Tana, marching towards Engatana. 
 
 Departure ~ _ 
 
 forEnga- I had still Ijusiuess in the house of Herr Clemens 
 Denhardt, where I gave my final directions to Lieuten- 
 ant-Captain Rust, settled accounts with the Somalis, and ordered 
 ten camels to be packed. At eight o'clock T gave instructions 
 for the camels to start, and rode forward myself at a sharp 
 trot, after Herr von Tiedemann, towards the camping-ground 
 that had been agreed upon. The die was now cast. When once 
 I had left the gates of Witu behind, there was no way back for 
 me but by the circuitous route across the Tana, Baringo, Nile, 
 and. Clod willing, through the Equatorial Province. 
 
 iNSTEUCTINfi THE SOMALIS. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 UP THE TANA TO TEE GALLAS. 
 
 ''" ■ '= . . And, lie thou counscU'd, 
 
 Love not the sun too dearly, nor the 
 istars." — (Goethe.) 
 
 ~VTTHEN I broke up ni}' camp 
 V\ nu July 26th I had the 
 iDtention of marching from\Altu 
 straight upon E'ligatana. The 
 Suaheli there had given me ac- 
 curate information with regard 
 to the road, and had declared to 
 me that I could quite Avell reach 
 Engatana in Avhat would cer- 
 tainly be a somewhat severe 
 day's march. As, however, this 
 had been represented to me ^^^ 
 in other quarters as doubt- first day's 
 
 * ., , , march. 
 
 Ill], and a first day s march 
 always brings with it a numlier oi' unex- 
 pected hindrances and difficulties, I had determined once more 
 to set u]i my camp, for July 26th, in the neighbourhood 
 of Witu, at a distauce of from five to seven miles, in a 
 
 
78 \EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 plantation belonging to the Sultan Fumo Bukari, and I had 
 issued instructions to Herr von Tiedemann accordingly. 
 
 After the camels had been loaded, I hastened on, alternately 
 
 at a trot and a gallop, behind the porters, to make the necessary 
 
 arrangements myself for the pitching of the first camp. 
 
 menUn' I arrived at the Sultan's country seat, but no expedi- 
 
 thevauey. ^.^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^ there. I was informed that the 
 
 column had betaken itself into the forest, in a north-westerly 
 direction. Towards twelve o'clock I came up with it, and 
 Herr von Tiedemann reported to me that, in consequence of 
 the peculiar features of the ground, as the Suaheli had pre- 
 dicted, a further advance in the direction we had taken seemed 
 to him impracticable for the camels, and he therefore proposed 
 to me that we should halt for to-day at the place we had 
 reached, there being water in the neighbourhood. It was a 
 charming valley in which we found ourselves : on the left a 
 declivity, along which a watercourse took its way ; on the right 
 a gradually rising ground, covered with maize and mtana. 
 Though with some reluctance, I made up my mind to act upon 
 Herr von Tiedemann's proposal, and gave orders to pile the 
 loads and set up the tents. 
 
 These operations, during the first days of our march, were 
 always carried out with a certain slowness, as the people had 
 Doubts and ^'^t been sufiiciently schooled in the art of setting up 
 difficulties, jjjg teuts. On this occasion the circumstance was 
 added, that some very high grass had to be cleared away 
 before a place could be gained for the tent ; and so we sat 
 on our boxes, in the burning sun, in a somewhat depressed 
 frame of mind. The discouraging thing was the fact that if the 
 Suaheli of Witu were not able to give us accurate particulars 
 even concerning the way to Engatana, it could hardly be 
 expected that what I had heard from them with respect to 
 the Tana regions would have any practical significance.; and 
 that therefore the march into these regions to a certain extent 
 meant a leap in the dark, which for an expedition like ours is 
 generally extremely dangerous. For in such expeditions, in 
 the end, everything depends on the disposition of the porters, 
 
CAMP LIFE AND ITS PLEASURES. 79 
 
 on which the leader has altogether to rely. But the porter, 
 on his part, is exceedingly sensitive until he has become bound 
 to the leader personally, and unfavourable impressions during 
 the first days may easily once and for all decide the fate of an 
 expedition. I was always conscious of the fact that there were 
 in no direction any reserves for me, and that I must therefore 
 only reckon upon the materials I had immediately in my hand ; 
 and that was little enough in comparison with the extent of the 
 journey before us. However, immediate exertion was effectual 
 then, as always, in banishing such moods of discouragement. 
 
 I at once sent back to Witu to procure that very day a 
 guide to Ngao, as the road to Engatana was impracticable. 
 This certainly involved a circuit that would cost us two or 
 three days ; but, in proportion to the periods of time we had 
 now to take into consideration, that was practically of no 
 importance. Meanwhile the encampment had been completed, 
 my Central African porters had built up their huts of wood 
 and leaves in a remarkably short time, and when I had had 
 an ox slaughtered, the whole assembly was soon busy cooking, 
 and in remarkably good spirits. I myself was gratified, in the 
 afternoon, by the appearance of a Witu Suaheli of rank, Buana 
 the Wall of this district, Buana Shamo by name, who ^s^V^"' 
 announced to me that the guide would be with me sii^e. 
 that very evening. He himself remained, with his wife, as 
 my guest in the camp, until my departure. 
 
 Towards evening there arrived also in the camp from Witu 
 Herren Denhardt, Doerfer, and Friedenthal ; and it was, in 
 truth, for all of us, an equally picturesque and pleasing ^^^ ^^ 
 sight to view the men of the column encamped in the of camp 
 wilderness round their many fires, with the various 
 groups feasting, singing, and narrating adventures. It was, for 
 the first time, a real inland African expedition, now that we 
 were clear of the civilised districts of the Witu sultanate. It 
 was the poetry of camp life that we had now before us. Un- 
 fortunately, the pleasant impression of this fresh picture was in 
 some measure disturbed by the announcement of the Somalis, 
 that one of the sixteen camels I had with me had strayed from 
 
80 
 
 XEW LIGHT ON JKIRK AFRICA. 
 
 the pasture-ground m thi' forest, aud was not to be found. As 
 I did not lite to abandon this camel to its fate, I determined 
 A prosaic to postpoue the march from this place lor a Aay, and 
 loss. ijj, (ii^, ^lext moruini"; to try every means to find the 
 
 animal in the forest, which did not appear a very difficult 
 matter. It was only necessary to tVdlow up its traces ; and if 
 we did not get hold of it, we should at least satisfy ourselves as 
 
 EuKUA, First Servant to Dr. Peters. 
 
 to its fate, — if, for instance, it should have fallen a prey to some 
 wild beast during the night. And, in truth, that very evening 
 the Wali sent intelligence to his slaves, who appeared in the 
 camp next morning, as early as ten o'clock, with the missing 
 camel, that had been somewhat severely hurt with the thorns, 
 and had lost its saddle into the bargain. 
 
 This July 27th, a Saturday, was proljably in every respect 
 a joyful day lor Herr vou Tiedemann, as it was for me. Herr 
 
PREPABING FOR A LONG MARCH. 81 
 
 Friedenthal came back once more to pack up a few loads, 
 whereby the number was brought to a hundred and fifty-three! 
 In the morning we fired the trial shots from our little cannon, 
 and in the afternoon, in the forest, from our rifles a joyful 
 and other guns. It was the powerful poetry of the ^^y- 
 wilderness that was irresistibly borne in upon us, and that 
 still imparts a hallowed character to that day ia the memory 
 of us all. It was not until eleven at night that the kiongosi, 
 or guide, ordered from Witu, arrived in camp ; and already, 
 at three in the morning, I had the alarm beaten and the 
 trumpet sounded. I had been told that the distance to Ngao 
 would be a journey of twelve hours. 
 
 Accordingly, I was desirous of starting at four o'clock in 
 the morning, to reach our destination by four in the afternoon. 
 But the night was so dark, that the porters with Tiedemann did 
 not move from their position till half-past five ; and the camels 
 and donkeys, with which I was to follow, were not loaded 
 and ready until past seven. So sluggish were even now the 
 movements of our expedition. 
 
 I rode off with my camels in a westerly direction, hoping 
 that I should not meet the column of porters till my arrival at 
 Ngao. But, to my disagreeable surprise, I came upon An ineffi- 
 it already at ten o'clock. The guide sent me by the "^''^s"^*®- 
 Sultan of Witu did not even know the frequently traversed 
 road to Ngao. Consequently, my column had gone astray, 
 and was now encamped. I at once caused them to make a 
 fresh start, while I myself stayed behind to wait for the 
 camels. But once more, no later than twelve o'clock, I came 
 again upon Tiedemann's column, encamped beside some water ; 
 and its elders, the Mangema Nogola and the Dar-es-Salam man 
 Musa, begged permission to rest for to-day. This I refused, 
 and we journeyed onward, further and further towards the 
 west, through the burning heat of that Sunday afternoon. 
 
 The landscape, in its flatness, has a Dutch appearance. 
 The eye ranges far away across the steppe, which is Aspect of 
 only here and there scantily clothed with bushes, and''^^*"'"''*'^''- 
 the hot air lies brooding over the moorland waste, deceiving 
 
82 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the eye with atmospheric mirages and fata morgana. ^Yater 
 was nowhere to be seen ; here and there the dry bed of a river, 
 or a ditch. The affair began to become wearisome. Towards 
 three o'clock I rode forward, past the caravan, to look round 
 in advance for the road, always keeping the imbecile guide 
 before me. Thirst began to make itself felt, and I lounged 
 lazily in the saddle, while my fancies began to present to me 
 pleasant pictures from home. At about four o'clock we came 
 into a wooded district, where the few people whom I had with 
 me— Hamiri was among them— at last discovered a swampy 
 pool, to which they rushed with great rejoicing. Behind it 
 was a clear space of three thousand yards in breadth, beyond 
 which the forest began again. In this second forest I dis- 
 covered a camping place, on which Wapokomo had probably 
 rested. 
 
 In the belief that I was close to Ngao, I again declined the 
 proposal of Hamiri to stay there for the night, cut through the 
 wood, and came anew into a bushy region, characterised by 
 the presence of great hills of the termite ant, which from a 
 Seeking for distance looked almost like Wapokomo houses and 
 Ngao. villages. As my horse was exhausted, I marched on 
 foot with Hamiri and my servant Rukua till towards half-past 
 five, without seeing anything of Ngao. Then I was incautious 
 enough to throw myself down under an acacia to rest, and to 
 remain half an hour stretched on the ground, waiting for my 
 people. Not a man came. Desolate, oppressive silence over 
 the whole plain ! Where was my caravan ? 
 
 The sun was going down. I went back, and near a thicket 
 I found nine of my camels, with some Somalis ; I was obliged 
 to have a way cut for them in a quarter of an hour. I ordered 
 the Somalis to march on, and not to halt till they came to the 
 Camping in river ; and they obeyed my command. I myself went 
 komo ^^''' further back, and found one set of my porters at the 
 quarters. Wapokomo campiug-place I had before discovered, and 
 another at the swampy pool we had found that afternoon in the 
 wood. Whether I liked it or no, I had to make up my mind 
 to set up the camping-place here for sixty porters and five 
 
A NATIONAL PATRIOTIC PROGBESS. 83 
 
 camels. Five porters and one camel had remained behind in 
 the steppe. I myself encamped in the Wapokomo camp, where 
 I had the tents pitched, with my private servants and a few 
 porters. Towards nine in the morning a heavy thunderstorm 
 came on, with a deluge of rain, which thoroughly wetted my 
 column ; and in the night we had, for the first time, the 
 pleasure of hearing lions roaring close to our tents. 
 
 On Monday morning at six o'clock I first sent forward all 
 the camels that had remained behind (the sixth had made its 
 appearance at an early hour), and then I despatched Nogola, one 
 of the best of the Mangema men, and two of the best Somalis 
 to look for the five straggling people. At half-past seven 
 o'clock the caravan of porters was in complete order, „ , . 
 
 ■*■ ■*■ Marching 
 
 and marched forth with beat of drum, with the black, wUhaiithe 
 white, and red flag carried in the front. I followed 
 as usual on horseback ; but Ngao was still not to be descried. 
 When we had quitted the wooded tract we came once more 
 into the burnt-up steppe which had made such a melancholy 
 impression on us the evening before. No water, no grass ; 
 only a darker strip in the distance. Was it, perhaps, the course 
 of the Tana ? 
 
 At ten o'clock I ordered the procession to incline to the 
 south ; for in this way we must strike the river somewhere. 
 At eleven, there it lay before us ! Very invigorating Arrival at 
 to us was the sight of this water, rolling its yellow *^® ^^"*- 
 flood towards the Indian Ocean. The Tana is here about as 
 broad as the Weser below Miinden. We reached it about six 
 miles above Ngao. I now rode forward, still following the 
 river, in a south-east direction. Amid the beating of drums 
 and the joyous shouts of the porters, who reckoned upon a 
 good meal after the fatiguing march, I halted at twelve German 
 o'clock before the house of the German missionaries Son')*'^'' 
 in Ngao, and was welcomed by Herren Wurz, Weber, ^^*°- 
 Heyer, and Booking. At two o'clock Herr von Tiedemann 
 arrived with the last of the porters, and at six o'clock Nogola 
 appeared with two of the Pagases and Somalis we had lost 
 the day before. The impression made by the steppe between 
 
84 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Witu and Ngao had been too much for the nerves of the 
 other three. They had let the Emin Pasha Expedition be the 
 Emin Pasha Expedition, and shown it a clean pair of heels. 
 Most likely they had gone back to Witu. 
 
 I immediately sent off two men with a donkey to bring in 
 their loads, and at the same time despatched a letter to Witu, 
 to have them arrested there if possible. All this was in the 
 highest degree annoying. 
 
 But altogether alarming was the news I at once received at 
 Ngao, that no food was to be had there for the porters, for that 
 Disagree- the Wapokomo themselves were suffering from hunger, 
 abietidings. ^gj.g gyg^ dying of hunger. This was certainly a very 
 agreeable piece of intelligence ! It absolutely seemed as if our 
 expedition were destined to end in a truly miserable manner ; 
 and that, too, when it had just begun. I heard, however, that 
 soldiers of the Sultan of Witu had gone in boats to Engatana 
 the day before, to carry corn for me there from Kau. 
 
 Acting on this intelligence, I at once, that very Monday 
 afternoon, sent Hamiri with two Somalis by boat up to Enga- 
 tana to bring down immediately to Ngao eight loads of the grain 
 stored up there, for I feared that otherwise my whole column 
 would run away altogether on the very first day. Without 
 these eight loads I could not even hope to reach Engatana, as 
 probably no food would be obtainable on the road between 
 Ngao and that place. At the same time I wrote back to 
 Witu to Herr Denhardt, commissioning him immediately to 
 purchase there ten oxen for slaughtering, and to send them 
 to Engatana. 
 
 I hoped by these measures to counteract the first heavy 
 disappointment. I called my people together, explained the 
 state of affairs to them, told them that there was corn enough 
 for them at Engatana, and that on the Upper Tana the new crop 
 Ex lana ""'^'S already ripening. But the negro does not love the 
 tions not music of the future ; he is a realistic politician of the 
 
 S11CC6SSflll 
 
 first water. And the next morning I was confronted 
 by the very reassuring fact that seven of the Dar-es-Salam men 
 had considered it preferable to seek their fortune elsewhere. 
 
A NIGHT AMONG THE MOSQUITOES. 85 
 
 Perhaps the unpleasurable experiences of the night had 
 contributed to this result. We had suffered comparatively 
 little from mosquitoes during the expedition; but Ants and 
 on no night were we molested by such swarms of °"'^*"'*''*=- 
 these little pests as attacked us at Ngao. The mission had 
 built its house close by the Tana, amid a wild, luxuriant 
 grass steppe. Here milliards of mosquitoes swarmed; and 
 so soon as the sun went down they threw themselves raven- 
 ously upon the welcome guests, who seemed to offer them 
 a fresher nourishment than they were accustomed to. It was 
 of no use that we surrounded our tents and ourselves with 
 a smoke that brought tears into our eyes ; it was of no use 
 that we put on drawers and wrapped up our hands in cloths. 
 The sharp sting of the mosquitoes, who threw themselves 
 upon us in black serried ranks, pierced through trousers and 
 drawers ; nor was the mosquito-net any protection against our 
 unwelcome visitors. Thus the nights passed away, bringing 
 us disturbed sleep, and, unrefreshed, we rose to encounter 
 the labours of the day that brought one disappointment after 
 another. 
 
 I endeavoured at Ngao to procure at any rate fish for my 
 people, but was told that no fish could be got from the Tana 
 at this season of the year. There was only the mambo to be 
 had — a kind of eel — and these, unfortunately, but in very 
 sparing quantity. I immediately sent soldiers in pursuit of my 
 runaway porters, and especially hunted for them among ,^^ g^ug^g 
 a tribe of Gallas who had established themselves in *= p°1"«- 
 the neighbourhood, whose chief came to bring me a tribute 
 of five sheep, three of which I handed over at once to my 
 porters. I held a council with these Gallas in the midst of the 
 whole congregation of my men. In order to terrify these from 
 further desertion, I charged the Gallas, in the event of my 
 runaway porters refusing to return, simply to cut them down. 
 I also held a shauri (conference) with my porters, in ugijauri" 
 which I explained to them that I would not have people with the 
 
 1 1 -IT -IT porters. 
 
 m the column who were not willmg to go with me, and 
 
 called upon them to give me notice at once if they wanted 
 
86 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRTCA. 
 
 permission to go home. No one presented himself; but as I 
 verj' well discerned, the temper of the men was very unsatis- 
 factory and doubtful. If a leader cannot feed his men well, 
 especially at the beginning of an expedition, they go away ; and 
 for this they can hardly be blamed. 
 
 Thus Monday went by, and no news from Engatana, towards 
 which place I was looking hopefully for corn. My soldiers 
 came back ; not a trace of the fugitives had they discovered. 
 I was obliged to confine myself to sending the names of the 
 Further ruuaways also to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Witu, in 
 of the"''' the hope he would succeed in bringing at least one or 
 Witu men, two to puuishmeut there. The men engaged at Witu 
 left me in pairs ; during these days, among others the private 
 servant of Herr von Tiedemann, whom we used to call Fremantle, 
 betook himself home to his Penates. But this worthy could not 
 make up his mind to depart without a remembrance of his 
 master, and accordingly took with him some good shirts and 
 coats, and, unfortunately, also a money pouch containing 
 700 marks (£35). The affair was the more deplorable as 
 there was nowhere a gleam of hope of better things. How 
 could I expect it would be better at other points of the Tana 
 than in Ngao, which was comparatively nearer to civilisation ? 
 Or how could I assume that the main body of my porters would 
 be intrinsically more faithful than those who had already de- 
 serted me ? But if my porters went off, the whole 
 anceofthe undertaking would prove a fiasco of the most ridiculous 
 por ers. Yvix([ ; and the landing and the difficulties we had already 
 overcome would assume an altogether comic character. To 
 make things worse, Herr von Tiedemann, who had gone across 
 the river on Monday, in the heat of the sun, to. the English 
 mission, to see after our runaway porters, had got an affection 
 of the head from the sun, and was suffering from the most 
 violent cerebral pains. 
 
 During those days I had much intercourse with the missionary 
 Missionary Wllrz ; but our Conversation on the Gospel according 
 ^"'■'^ to St. John and the Lutheran dogma hardly sufficed 
 to free my mind from the gloomy cares that oppressed it, 
 
DIFFICULTIES OF THE TANA ROUTE. 87 
 
 and made our thoughts revert continually to the miserable 
 circumstances of the moment. 
 
 On July 30th, towards evening, the eight loads ordered 
 arrived at last from Engatana. It was a positive heartfelt 
 comfort to me to be able to serve out rice and maize in abund- 
 ance to my people. This was certainly more calculated than 
 my address to raise the sinking courage of the men. On 
 August 1st I marched away from Ngao, still in a very March 
 depressed frame of mind, to betake myself at least as^'*""^^*"' 
 far as Engatana, where I hoped to find waiting for me some 
 ninety loads of grain, and the necessary boats for transporting it 
 onward. We wanted to sleep this night at Marfano ; and I was 
 accompanied by Herr Weber, from the mission at Ngao, who 
 wished to look at Engatana, with a view to a possible missionary 
 settlement there. 
 
 This marching day very considerably strengthened the im- 
 pressions of discouragement which the Tana route had awakened 
 in me when I first entered upon it. There was no real road, for 
 the Wapokomo carry on their trade by boats. So we had to 
 march continually through bush and steppe, always in danger 
 of losing our way, which indeed happened to us several times. 
 Then at last we got into a broad and deep morass, in which the 
 porters disappeared to their hips, and the camels got embedded 
 in such a way that they had to be unloaded and hoisted ^^^ ^^.^ 
 up with levers, a work in which the whole force of ma 
 porters, already sufficiently wearied by a ten or twelve 
 hours' march, were obliged to help. Moreover, at Marfano there 
 was nothing to eat ; and in the night another porter ran away, 
 and I could never learn what became of him. That was the 
 Tana route, to which we now stood committed. 
 
 On this day I determined at any rate to make use of the 
 advantages of this route, by partly unloading my heavily 
 burdened column, and having a portion of the things trans- 
 ported up the river in boats. Already at the beginning j^i^j^^i 
 of July seventy or eighty Arabs had gone up the river, ^^^'^^^ 
 whether on English instigation I do not know, but at all 
 events to English satisfaction, to stir up the inhabitants of the 
 
88 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Tana banks against my expedition, and especially to stop its 
 
 progress, and neither to sell me provisions nor give me the use 
 
 of boats. But the gentlemen who proceeded in this manner 
 
 against me had not reckoned upon one thing, namely, that 
 
 these continual hindrances and oppressions would necessarily 
 
 compel me, on my side, to meet extremities with extremities, 
 
 and where I found people refusing to let me purchase what they 
 
 Necessity of possessed, to fall back upon the right of self-preser- 
 
 seif-heip. vation and the right of arms, which is everywhere 
 
 acknowledged in Africa, and simply to take what I required. I 
 
 had a formal right to do this, inasmuch as I appeared here, to a 
 
 certain extent, as an authorised agent of the Sultan of Witu, 
 
 whose flag I carried, and whose influence I had undertaken to 
 
 spread towards the west. The Sultan's Walls have everywhere 
 
 the right to requisition boats and men for the objects of their 
 
 lord ; and I appeared in these lands, in some measure, invested 
 
 with this power by a document from Fumo Bukari. Therefore 
 
 I took possession of two boats at Marfano, and requested the 
 
 proprietors to forward a part of my loads to Engatana under 
 
 The boats the guard of some Somalis ; and the goods arrived 
 
 at Marfano. ^]^gj.g g^^ ^^q Specified time. Thus relieved to some 
 
 extent, I set forth from Marfano on the morning of August 
 
 2nd, and arrived at about eleven in the morning with my whole 
 
 column safe and sound at Engatana. 
 
 Here I encountered the great disappointment with regard to 
 my measures from Witu, and this disappointment was nearly 
 overturning everything. At Witu I had made a contract with 
 the Banyans of Kau for the delivery of six miaus or Tana 
 canoes, with one hundred loads of grain, at Engatana ; the six 
 miaus were to be at my disposal for use up the river. As in 
 the meanwhile Herr Clemens Denhardt had undertaken to 
 Failure of represent me at Witu, I made him acquainted with this 
 Indmfau arrangement. Herr Denhardt offered to manage the 
 contract, affair in a safer way for me, through the Wali of the 
 Tanga territory, Buana Shaibo in Kau. Two days before my 
 departure from Witu, I sent Tiedemann to Denhardt with the 
 inquiry whether I might depend upon finding the grain and the 
 
WAITING FOR THE JIEANS OF ADVAXCE. 89 
 
 miaus at Eugatana. "When Herr von Tiedemann brought me 
 an answer in the affirmative, I broke off my own negotiations 
 with the Banyan, and marched to Engatana. But on August 2nd 
 I found at Engatana, instead of the expected hundred loads, only 
 fifty -four, and not a single miau. Buana Shaibu had believed 
 he had herewith sufficiently fulfilled his engagement ! 
 
 For the time, this decided the fate of my column. Without 
 miaus I had no means of shipping the grain up the stream, and 
 had consequently to remain in Engatana. Herewith began the 
 darkest weeks of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, serious 
 Our position appeared to me almost hopeless. In discourage- 
 spite of the greatest economy, I was obliged to expend °'®'^*- 
 from two to three loads of grain each day to satisfy the hunger 
 of my people. The grain decreased more and more from day 
 to day, and the time could be accurately calculated when it 
 would come to an end. Whatever was to be got at Engatana, 
 in the way of unripe bananas and other articles of food, was 
 soon completely consumed. 
 
 It happened, in addition, that the rainy season this }'ear was 
 unusually prolonged. Night after night cataracts poured down 
 from the skies, and soon sickness began to rage among my 
 camels, which in a short time were reduced to the number often. 
 My people also fell ill, and the desertion of men, one by ^ 
 one, continued, until I made up my mind, once for all, season and 
 to chain up every doubtful character among them, 
 under the guard of a Somali, day and night. But worse than 
 all this was the circumstance that I myself began to lose my 
 elasticity of mind. 
 
 Opposite Engatana is situated a wide region of swamp, the 
 so-called Shechababu lake. This lake afforded for our support 
 an inexhaustible shooting-ground for ducks, fowl, and geese. 
 At this time we lived almost entirely on birds. 
 
 But the south-west monsoon, which continually blew with 
 unusual violence across our camping-ground, incessantly The mon- 
 drove the marsh vapour over upon us ; and as we were ^"53 'Jj)l_ 
 in the habit of carelessly sitting, often for hours, after ^^t^^s- 
 supper, in the open air in the front of my tent, I was seized in 
 
90 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the course of this detention at Engatana with a rheumatic fever, 
 which shook me violently for two days, and then left behind it 
 a painful lameness in my left knee, and also in my right arm. 
 Against this rheumatic suffering I used strong doses of Salicin, 
 but I did not succeed in completely overcoming it ; and, on 
 the other hand, the use of quinine and salicyl had the disagree- 
 able effect of greatly depressing my spirits, and especially my 
 power of will. How could I thus hope to command an Emin 
 Pasha Expedition under ordinary conditions ? how much less 
 to face the quite unusual difficulties of my exceptional position ? 
 But how could I have reconciled myself even to continue to 
 live, if the Emin Pasha Expedition broke down in 
 
 WG6i£S 01 , _^ 
 
 dreary this manner P Thus I sat for weeks m Engatana, 
 wai ing. |3j.QQ(j^,^g Qygj. jj^y fj^^g g^jj(j ^jjg future, while the south- 
 west wind whistled round my tent, and the sky, from its 
 murky clouds, poured down torrents of rain on our expedition.* 
 
 * I cannot more forcibly express the feelings that pervaded me at the 
 beginning of our detention at Engatana, than by reproducing a letter which 
 I addressed on August 8rd to Government Architect Hofmann. This letter 
 is not without interest for me, because it especially indicates the hopes to 
 which I still clung at that time. The literal text is as follows : — 
 
 " I must confess that this Emin Pasha Expedition makes unusual demands 
 upon my patience and strength of purpose. The famous Tana route is, just 
 as I said in the autumn, in reality quite unavailable for expeditions. At 
 that time the whole river plain is in a state of famine. This it was that 
 ultimately caused the failure of the English (Pigott's) expedition, and I must 
 exert all my powers to escape such a fate. I have my provisions carried with 
 me in boats, which naturally gives occasion for delays. So I only get forward 
 slowly. In three or four weeks the crops will be ripe, and the misery past. 
 We are looking forward to an abundant harvest. Now, the people here are 
 living literally on grass and the bark of trees. There is nothing at all to he 
 had except water, of which there is enough in the river. You would not 
 believe the difficulties that arise in provisioning, especially in furnishing 
 supplies for my camels, donkeys, and my riding horse. To this must be added 
 the quite unusual days' marches we have to make. Repeatedly we have had 
 to march from quite early in the morning until from four to six in the after- 
 noon, before we get to a halting-place. The Tana valley, in its formation, is 
 quite like that of the Nile on a small scale. The river has carried a fertile 
 but narrow alluvial surface into a quite desolate steppe. Along this region I 
 journey ; that is to say, I encamp in it. I do not follow the windings of the 
 river, but travel diagonally across the steppe towards my camping-ground. 
 
PBOSPECIV AND LABOURS. 91 
 
 On the 24th, my condition of mind had become considerably 
 more passionate, by the state of tension throughout these weeks. 
 On that day I wrote a letter to Dr. Denicke, from which I 
 extract a few passages : — 
 
 " Meanwhile, every attempt to cause me to waver in my 
 fixed determination to carry out my task, whether through 
 hunger, negro mobs, rain, wind, or sickness, appears to me 
 downright ridiculous. I do not for a moment think of retreat- 
 ing. . . . I am cut off from my rear. Germany will, as usual, 
 since I have the distinction to work for German interests, be 
 ' indignant ' at me. I have ' contrived ' to make myself 
 
 Here I must again wait for a few days]" (such was my expectation even on 
 August 3rd) " for grain from Kipiri and Kau, and for my boats. 
 
 " So soon as I am at Korkoro, whicli will be God knows when, but with- 
 out question will be effected, I shall profit by the immediate neighbourhood of 
 the Kawallalah Somalis " (which was also destined to be a sweet delusion), 
 " and shall also immediately put myself in communication with the Massais. 
 The former made a compact with me the last day I was in Witu ; they came 
 after me. I was to remain neutral in case the Wagalla " (and Englishmen 
 with them) " attacked them ; in return they will bring cattle and camels to 
 me to Korkoro, and also to Oda-Boru-Ruva " (which they never thought of 
 doing) ; " and I am always to be their Sultan so long as I remain in Africa. 
 So runs the concluding part of the treaty set up by Sheriff Hussein. The 
 Massais must furnish me with donkeys. Then I think I shall be able to get 
 easily to the great caravan road of Baringo, where further means of help are 
 to be found. I must operate in this way because I am cut off from Zanzibar, 
 and from the rear. 
 
 " I have already several times experienced in my life how apparently 
 invincible obstacles yield to a persistent will ; and I also believe that Provi- 
 dence actually wills this undertaking, however all appearances seem to declare 
 against it. For it is only now that I see, with complete clearness, what this 
 undertaking is capable of becoming for this part of Africa. Steamers must 
 run up the Tana ; then the Baringo trade will certainly be drawn this way " 
 (which was an error). " The Wapokomo must be protected against the 
 Somalis and Massais, so that they gain courage to follow cattle-breeding and 
 agriculture on a large scale. Stations must make the north-west trade route 
 safe, far into the south. Perhaps the task of breaking the ground here is 
 reserved for me. In that case I should understand the contrarieties that 
 beset me, and that have compelled me to have recourse again to camels, and 
 always force me back upon the river. I have been obliged to emancipate 
 myself from all the received traditions of Central African expeditions. But 
 thus this undertaking may in reality form an epoch in the history of Central 
 
92 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 • unpopular ' in wide circles there. It is a worse thing that 
 Zanzibar and the coast are cut oif from me, with regard to 
 porters and provisions. This certainly, throws me back on my 
 own resources. . . . Once more. The billows that roar against 
 me may perhaps bewilder my temper here and there, but never 
 my resolves. Whatever my feelings may be, facts will always 
 find me meet them like a man. ... My dear Denicke, I hope 
 — and God will not be so cruel as to will it otherwise— that I 
 shall do you no dishonour ; and if, to avoid this, I should perish 
 here with all I am and possess, it will be in the strife, and 
 whatever may happen, I shall fall as a man ! . . . People like 
 myself will, probably, not usually get beyond a certain limit, 
 
 Africa. Firm as a rock in tliis conviction, I work from morning till evening, 
 and in this confidence I am determined to oppose my whole being to all 
 difficulties and troubles, in full trust that if I aid myself, God will also aid 
 me in the end. 
 
 " From Ngao I have taken with me Herr Weber, one of the Neukirchen 
 missionaries, that he may take a survey of this land in connection with his 
 duties. He will probably go a few days' journey further up with me." (This 
 was not done, in consequence of our lengthened detention.) 
 
 " You and all friends in Germany only require to have patience with us. 
 Though we drag ourselves forward but slowly, you may be sure that we stiU 
 get on as quickly as ever it can be done ; our base as far as Witu remains 
 permanently secured, and at all events I shall avoid a catastrophe. This is 
 my first duty. The German Emin Pasha undertaking must in every case be 
 carried out, and have a practical result. By this undeviating resolve I will 
 stand or fall, if my force of will be not broken by sickness. But this I do not 
 apprehend. 
 
 " I have especial pleasure in putting myself in communication with you 
 to-day. Close in front of my tent flows the Tana, very like the Weser at 
 Hameln. The opposite shore is luxuriantly covered with bananas and maize. 
 Weber and Tiedemann have gone out hunting, and it is a calm, fine morning, 
 one in which the soul can thoroughly go into and strengthen itself. Behind 
 me lies all the jarring of Europe, like the blustering sea, of which not a 
 whisper, much less an angry sound, penetrates to us here. Let wind and 
 waves rage behind us ; before me lies the future, and ' Forward ! ' is my 
 watchword. 
 
 " When I look up from this letter my glance always falls upon the mirror 
 of the Tana, whose waters glide by me, dumb and mysterious. , Whence does 
 it come ? Perhaps it may be vouchsafed to me to behold its source. That is 
 in the hands of the Eternal Powers, that regulate the fate of individuals and 
 of the whole. Farewell." 
 
DAYS BY THE TANA. 93 
 
 even of life. And th'ey fail, indeed, in this manner : on the 
 one hand, they want to display qualities which, in fact, must 
 go beyond the rule and measure of prescribed bounds if they 
 are to fulfil their task ; on the other hand, their qualities are 
 to remain within the limits of private action. The reconcilia- 
 tion of a contrast and contradiction is here demanded." 
 
 The Tana here rolls through a pleasant scene, onward 
 towards its mouth. Close by the margin of the shore was a 
 Wapokomo hut, with a barasa or verandah. Here Herr von 
 Tiedemann and I were accustomed to take our early breakfast, 
 and I used then for hours to gaze down the river, hoping that 
 round one of its windings help might appear from the coast. 
 In the evenings we would again sit before our tent, „ , 
 
 r. On the 
 
 having left the cares of the day behind us. Opposite banks of 
 us, on the further shore, stood a knotted tree, which 
 from the varied effects of light assumed fantastic forms and 
 outlines. Sometimes it looted like an old man with a ragged 
 beard, stretching out his hands threateningly towards us ; 
 sometimes it appeared in the mist like the Erl-king, with hand 
 thrust forth, pointing to the west. To my somewhat melan- 
 choly fancy it always had a threatening appearance. But it 
 was not on ghosts and apparitions that my fate depended. If 
 there was any help for us, it must after all be in ourselves. 
 
 I shall pass briefly over the many efforts I made in this 
 direction. I at once sent Hamiri down river to Ngao to bring 
 up fresh supplies of grain. He actually succeeded in procuring 
 thirty -four loads, and getting them to Engatana. From g^ppugg 
 Witu, through the exertions of Herr Denhardt, I re- fi'of 
 
 > o Witu. 
 
 ceived nine oxen, and if anythmg could keep my 
 people in good heart it was the appearance of the nine oxen in 
 question. I used to tell Herr von Tiedemann that so long as 
 a single one of these oxen walked in front of the expedition 
 the people would follow him, as iron is drawn by the magnet. 
 What modest views we still had at that time with regard to 
 cattle — and how entirely different had our ideas become, a few 
 months later, when we marched along, with herds of hundreds 
 and even thousands of oxen, the prize of war !— Our expedi- 
 
94 XEW LIGHT 0\ DARK AFRICA. 
 
 tion, still so hungry at that time, was destined to become one 
 of the best fed that ever marched onward in Africa. I further 
 succeeded in procuring two large miaus from the Arabs. 
 
 On August 8th I sent a few people up the river to look 
 about, as far as Kosi Nderani, for miaus, and to bring down 
 any they could get. However, as it usually happens, the 
 Somalis came back without fulfilling their commission ; they 
 declared there were no miaus ; they had not been able to get 
 untrust- any. Thereupon I sent Herr von Tiedemann up the 
 Toml^f river ; and next morning already he sent me down a 
 messengers.iniau, and after several days, to my great satisfaction, 
 came back himself with a second one. This last miau had 
 certainly cost a few lives, as the Wapokomo of Nderani, who 
 were being goaded on by the Arabs, had refused to let us have 
 The cap- oue. Not Only had they insulted Herr von Tiedemann 
 tured miau. g^^ a couucil, but, when he, notwithstanding, went away 
 with the miau, they had even shot at him, so that he was 
 obliged to return their fire in self-defence, on which occasion 
 four of the Wapokomo fell. 
 
 So, after all, I had for the present a little flotilla of four 
 miaus lying at Engatana, guarded day and night by Somali 
 sentries. On account of the total want of provisions with 
 which we were threatened, I reduced the posho or allowance for 
 the porters to a load and a half per day. The people resisted 
 Short this in their peculiar manner, by declaring they would 
 allowance. ^^^ accept a ioad and a half. But when I told them, 
 in reply, that this would suit me all the better, for that then I 
 should save all my grain, they came to me in the evening, and 
 begged me to give them the load and a half, and they would be 
 content ; which I, on my part, did not do, for I put them off 
 to the following day. Hereby I put an end, once and for all, 
 to this kind of resistance, in my own column, for the whole 
 remaining period of the expedition. Th'e people got more 
 strict and more accustomed to leave it to me to decide for 
 discipline, ^j^g^ ^^j^g^^ ^gj, ^Q ^g ^Q^g lj^ ^j^g expedition. Such 
 
 " shauris " as, according to the books of travel, were usual 
 in other expeditions, especially in those of Stanley, I never 
 
AN ENGLISH EXPEDITION REPORTED. 95 
 
 tolerated in the German Emin Pasha Expedition. Nevertheless, 
 as a precaution, when I adopted the before -mentioned measure 
 on August 6th, I had all the people put in chains who had been 
 engaged at Lamu and Witu. 
 
 The longer I remained at Engatana the more did suspicious 
 Arab characters show themselves, day by day, around my camp. 
 Already at the beginning of August reports came daily of the 
 approach of an English expedition to Engatana. Naturally I 
 listened to all these communications with the greatest interest. 
 The English expedition was said to be commandqd by Mr. 
 Smith, as proved to be the case, and had specially put Eumours 
 itself in communication with the Kau Arabs. As it English 
 was now reported to me that the Arabs from Kau were expedition- 
 trying to stir up my people to desert, and as men belonging to 
 the approaching English expedition had already been seen in 
 my quarters, I determined to put a stop to this, by one day 
 chaining up some yellow gentlemen from Kau, and keeping 
 them with me, to a certain extent, as hostages. The envoys 
 from the English expedition, who had manifestly endeavoured 
 to persuade my people to desert, I caused to be flogged, and 
 sent them back. 
 
 By this means I established something like peace towards 
 the end of my stay ; but the general condition of the expedition 
 was only negatively improved thereby, inasmuch as a time of 
 there was one danger less, to threaten us. From Witu, ^^^p*''^®- 
 to which place I continually looked for help, none appeared; on 
 the contrary, the expedition was looked upon there as having 
 already failed; and an endeavour was made to persuade me 
 that this could not have, been otherwise, that it had been pre- 
 dicted. Among the peculiar plans that were discussed among 
 us day by day, to help us out of the blind alley in which we 
 were, I cannot forbear giving an account of a proposition made 
 to me, in all seriousness, one morning by Hussein Fara. 
 
 I was accustomed at that time to get some hours' instruction 
 every morning from Hussein in the language of his people, that 
 I might give my commands to the Somalis, who did not un- 
 derstand the Kiswahili tongue. Then Hussein one morning 
 
96 XEW LIGHT Oy DARK AFRICA. 
 
 came out deliberately with the observation that my porters were 
 very powerful and well-built people. When I assented to this 
 
 proposition, he went on to remark that Sheriff Hussein 
 cai^ ° °^^' in Witu had already said the same thing. I observed 
 studies. ^^ Hussein that every one could see this for himself, 
 and that I did not wonder at it. Yes, he said, Sheriff Hussein 
 was desirous to buy himself a lot of slaves. Now, our porters 
 were in the habit of running away, and so he had agreed with 
 Sheriff Hussein, that when we came into the district where the 
 latter was with his herds, I should give over my porters as 
 slaves to him, and he would give me five camels in exchange 
 for every porter. He advised me to conclude this business. 
 In the first place, a camel carried much more than a porter, and 
 
 then I could afterwards sell the camels on the coast 
 diplomatic when the expedition was over, and I should make a 
 proposal. gQQ(j profit by the transaction. Husseiii made me this 
 proposition on August 22nd, and frequently reverted to it later 
 on in the expedition. He could not understand why I should 
 not make up my mind to so manifestly profitable a transaction, 
 and he had noticed with astonishment that the whites did not 
 enter into such little undertakings on the coast. During the 
 course of this conversation Hussein also expressed his opinion, 
 that when I had once seen how lucrative such an affair could 
 become, I should perhaps make up my mind to do business 
 more frequently in this manner in Africa, But, tempting as 
 the matter appeared in his eyes, I could not bring myself to 
 close with his proposal. 
 
 Meanwhile the English expedition, under Mr. Smith, act- 
 ually marched past Engatana, on the opposite side of the Tana 
 river. But if Mr. Smith had been commissioned to close the 
 Smith's P^*^ against me there, I must confess that, from his 
 English first appearance on the scene, he did not follow his 
 ■ instructions very conscientiously. For, instead of keep- 
 ing close to my camp, and if possible drawing over my porters 
 to his side, he seemed to find it more convenient to march 
 round it in a wide circuit, so that altogether I did not get 
 sight of him and his column. This relation between us was 
 
ENCAMPED AT EN GAT AN A. 97 
 
 practically maintained during the whole time we were both 
 marching along the Tana. When, later on, I followed his 
 traces, Mr. Smith, whom I repeatedly expected to meet, 
 had always started again a few days earlier ; so that of him 
 personally I saw nothing at all, and of his people only so many 
 as fled to me after the Smith expedition, one hundred and sixty 
 strong, had been scattered by the Somalis. One day, moreover, 
 two boats passed our camp, carrying grain up the Tana for the 
 Englishmen. 
 
 During the whole time I had the camp closely guarded by 
 day and night, because reports were continually reaching our 
 ears of Arab machinations to attack and plunder us ; and it was 
 necessary for me, at all hazards, to resist any raids that might 
 be attempted on my cattle or my boats. I need hardly Danger of 
 say that I was not much afraid of this Arab coast ^"^^^ '^*^*^- 
 rabble. I had too much confidence in the discipline we had 
 introduced in my troop for that, and in my artillery and our 
 repeating rifles. Seen from the river, our camp at Engatana 
 had a sufficiently picturesque look. In the foreground ^^^^^^^ 
 was my fine large tent, with the German and the Witu atEnga- 
 flags. In front the artillery was placed. On the right 
 was the smaller tent, of Herr Tiedemann, and behind my tent, 
 and to the left of it, the Somalis, and further off the porters. 
 The whole presented a handsome and warlike appearance. 
 
 On August 23rd I had ordered Hamiri to a rich Suaheli in 
 the sultanate of Witu, to try and procure me grain from that 
 place. I had given him eight camels, to bring home the grain 
 into camp. But already on the morning of the 24th Hamiri-s 
 Hamiri came back. The camels had not been able to ^'*'^""- 
 pass through the primeval forest, and so he had been compelled 
 to return. Now I only wished to wait for the definite decision 
 from Witu, from whence I still reckoned on assistance, before 
 making my final resolve. The grain on the Upper Tana was 
 already ripening. Like the first swallow in spring, an Arab 
 had a few days before passed Engatana in a boat with twenty 
 loads of rice, which he said he had " bought " on the Upper 
 Tana. The maize cobs, too, were already gleaming golden, and 
 
 7 
 
98 .Vt'ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 could furnish good food. It was towards the close of August, 
 when the chief harvest time of these lands is approaching. On 
 No hope the 25th, in the morning, came the report that there 
 fromwitu. -^yj^g x^othing more to be expected for us from Witu. 
 FiA'e minutes afterwards I gave the order to make the four 
 boats clear, and to load them. The time of gloom}' brooding 
 was now to be over. If the fate of the expedition was to be 
 accomplished it seemed to me more desirable to follow the 
 old Virgilian motto, " Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior 
 ito,'" than to receive our kismet with the resignation of the 
 Mahometan. 
 
 Sixty-seven loads were deposited in the boats. Wapokomo 
 of Engatana were requested to embark in them as boatmen. In 
 Onward by every boat a soldier was posted, with a loaded repeating 
 boat. g^jj^ g^j^(j ^j^g command of the whole fleet was entrusted 
 to the brave Hamiri. Towards three o'clock in the afternoon the 
 boats Avent off, each displaying a little black, white, and red flag, 
 that fluttered gaily in the breeze. An hour later the camels 
 followed with forty loads. Then I sat down with Herr von 
 Tiedemann to breakfast, when suddenly it was reported to me 
 Missionar ^'^'^^ ^he Somali post that a white man, an Englishman, 
 Hedden- wished to speak to me. This last designation was 
 
 Strom. . ^ ° 
 
 incorrect ; for the white man who now stepped into the 
 tent was the Swedish missionary, Heddenstrom, from Kulesa, 
 above Engatana, whom we had already, on the previous evening, 
 seen passing our camp in a boat, and who came to make us a 
 certainly not very edifying communication. 
 
 The next station between Engatana and Nderani was a 
 village called Mitole, near which there is a tolerably large 
 forest. Missionary Heddenstrom now informed us, he had 
 certain intelligence that there were concealed in this forest 
 three hundred men belonging to Futilla, a formidable Somali 
 in the sultanate of ^Yitu, under a Kau Arab named Bwana 
 Omari, and that their object was to attack our camp, or lie 
 in wait for us in case we marched through the forest. 
 
 At this news I was not, indeed, anxious about our expedi- 
 tion as such, but I feared that the Arabs might attempt to 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 99 
 
 get possession of my boats in case thej' put to shore at Mitole ; 
 — I consequently gave immediate orders that Herr von Tiede- 
 mann should betake himself at once to Mitole with six Dangers at 
 Askaris, the camel men, and the artillery, to clear the """i*- 
 wood and protect the boats. Herr von Tiedemann accordingly 
 set out at once, but saw nothing of the reported three hundred 
 Arabs. I may mention at once that two days later, in a wood 
 between Muina and Mbuji, I came upon a few hundred figures, 
 who might have furnished the foundation for Heddenstrom's 
 report. I immediately had my ordnance brought up, and went 
 forward, armed only with my revolver and accompanied by five 
 men, towards the hill where the fellows stood ; and we had not 
 even to fire a shot, so quickly did the whole assembly vanish, 
 like chaff before the wind. 
 
 After Herr von Tiedemann had marched away with the 
 Somalis on Sunday afternoon from Mitole, I called my porters 
 together, and gave orders that they should make everything 
 ready for setting out on the following morning. I told them I 
 had intelligence that the harvest was ripe on the Upper Encourag- 
 Tana ; that I had had enough of the hungry time for d^fgs^tothe 
 my people, and would now lead them into districts people, 
 where there would be plenty to eat, if they were prepared to do 
 their duty. These words did not fail to produce a good effect. 
 " Maneno niasuri kapissa" ("Exceedingly good words!"), 
 replied Nogola in the name of all the porters, and the feeling 
 with regard to the departure from Engatana was manifestly one 
 of pleasurable excitement. 
 
 It is a remarkable peculiarity of human nature that we 
 perhaps feel a greater attachment to places in which we have 
 had to suffer, than towards those where we have passed happy 
 days. That was my experience on Sunday, August ^^^^^_ 
 25th, after Herr von Tiedemann had marched away, brances of 
 
 . . suffering. 
 
 My feeling with regard to quittmg Engataaa was one 
 of deep sadness. I once more visited all the spots where I 
 had brooded over the hard strokes of fortune that had alighted 
 on our expedition, and could hardly refrain from tears. 1 
 learned to my joy on the same evening that Heddenstrom's 
 
100 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 report had been unfounded. Next morning, in a pouring rain, 
 I sent away the caravan of porters likewise to Mitole. 
 
 The Wapokomo of Engatana hypocritically assumed the 
 appearance of a kind of sorrow at their parting with me, but 
 put on a very joyous air when, at the last moment, I made them 
 a present of a few empty boxes and chests. We parted 
 from the Ostensibly as good friends ; but this did not prevent 
 apo omo. ^^g^j, ggj^tiiijg an embassy to the Sultan of Witu, with 
 the declaration that my expedition had ruined them, and a 
 petition to be allowed to found a new village. Ingratitude is 
 the world's reward also in Africa. It was a great satisfaction 
 to me that, when we began our march, not one of the porters 
 was missing. The experiences I had had, nevertheless, caused 
 me to secure with cords all I still had of the people from the 
 Lamu district, and to lead them up to Oda-Boru-Ruwa under 
 especial guard. 
 
 M^hen all were on the road, in a continuous pouring rain, I 
 left Engatana with Hussein Far a, my servant Rukua, and Tell, 
 the last remaining one of my dogs. The ground was so clayey 
 and slippery that we only advanced slowly, and did not reach 
 Mitole until towards twelve o'clock, though it is only seven 
 and a half miles distant from Engatana. I was very glad to be 
 able to substantiate, on this journey, that the remains of my 
 rheumatism had disappeared. 
 
 The way by the Tana is always outside the belt of river 
 scrub that runs uninterruptedly along by the stream in its 
 Scenery of lower and. middle course. Especially in the middle 
 the Tana. cQu^se this uuderwood is comparatively broad, so that 
 in the morning we had to work our way tolerably far from the 
 camp out of the thicket, and in the afternoon were obliged to 
 work back to it. This wood is only broken, in the immediate 
 vicinity of the villages, by plantations. Here are growing 
 bananas, mtama, maize, batatas, and various kinds of bean 
 fruits. 
 
 Seen from the river, the banks of the Tana throughout pre- 
 sent a very charming landscape appearance, whether they are 
 bordered by plantations or by bush forest. Outside this belt 
 

THE STEPPE AND ITS CHARMS. 101 
 
 one comes upon the dry steppe, a region exceedingly conAe- 
 nient for the march, covered with mimosas of various kinds, 
 whose thorns, however, often unmercifully tear the Eegjon ^j 
 clothes and skin of the horseman. Frequently the *^® ^*^pp«- 
 march is for hours through tracts of cactus, whose hard prickles 
 become dangerous to the feet of porters and beasts of burden. 
 This steppe, through which the Tana rolls its flood along, forms 
 a part of the great North-East African border plains, the abode 
 of Somalis and Gallas. Unfruitful as it is, from its aridity, for 
 plantations of any kind, it yet offers a very picturesque and 
 lovely scene to the eye of the traveller, especially after the 
 rainy season, and also affords a lively and exciting picture from 
 its wealth in game and animals. There is the ante- 
 
 . ° Animal life 
 
 lope m large flocks ; there may be seen each morning of the 
 the heavy traces of the elephant and the rhinoceros ; ° *^^^' 
 there great companies of baboons and other apes pursue their 
 gambols, and bucks of all kinds afford welcome occupation for 
 the rifle. In the air, pea-hens and other fowl fly abroad, the 
 wild duck and the wild goose sweep by, and here are seen the 
 great pelican, vulture, and eagle. 
 
 Nothing more delightful can be imagined than a march 
 through this Tana steppe at an early morning hour. When the 
 column was on the road, in good order, and I left the camp in 
 the rear of all, either riding my horse, or striding with Hussein 
 and my servants through the dewy steppe, the eye ExHiarat- 
 roved delighted over the plain covered with its strange i^is'iimate. 
 formations of bush. Seldom in Europe can such a delicious 
 elastic clearness of the air be enjoyed as is found in the morn- 
 ing hours in Africa, almost under the Equator. On the left, 
 after we had crossed to the right bank of the Tana, the river 
 winds along, a dark-green, snaky line ; before us, on the 
 horizon, is seen the column of porters, like a little straight 
 thread ; and behind it the camels, with their strange swinging 
 movement. In all the leaves and blades of grass millions of 
 dewdrops are gleaming like diamonds, in the bright but a cheerful 
 not oppressive tropical sun. The heart beats higher '^^'"'^■ 
 with joyous excitement, and all the privations of the life, com- 
 
102 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 pared with that of Europe, are forgotten in this pure feeling, in 
 viewing this manifestation of the greatness of God, which offers 
 itself to our contemplation more immediately here than where 
 man has mingled his creations with it. These were wonderful 
 hours, which were further brightened by the consciousness that 
 we were moving towards the appointed goal ; that we were on 
 our way to Emin Pasha in the Equatorial Province. Over this 
 first part of the expedition lies in our remembrance a bright, 
 sunny glow ; perhaps because the impressions of Zanzibar and 
 the coast were yet recent in us, and formed a dark background. 
 
 On these marches it was my custom to leave the camp last 
 of all, and then, when we approached the goal of our day's 
 Order of the march, to Overtake the others; so that I generally 
 procession, arrived first at the new camping-ground. It was Herr 
 von Tiedemann's duty to march immediately behind, and with 
 the porters. This arrangement was modified several times 
 during the course of the expedition. When we had passed 
 beyond the districts where we could procure guides, and it 
 became necessary to settle our own route with maps and the 
 compass, I made it a rule to march at the head of the expe- 
 dition. But here we were still in the territory of the Wapokomo 
 tribe, where in every village a few ells of stuff would purchase 
 the services of a guide to the next. To-day we are encamped 
 at Mitole, a little cheerful place, surrounded by plantations of 
 maize and bananas. 
 
 Already, as I drew near the village, the elders of the place 
 came out to meet me, to complain that my porters had plun- 
 compiaints ^^^^^ ^^^^^ maize fields. Sorry as I was for the 
 of Mitofe^" Wapokomo, this was, in one respect, an agreeable 
 piece of news for me, as it proved that the maize 
 harvest was really ripe, and that I should accordingly, in all 
 likelihood, find subsistence for my people, during the continu- 
 ance of the expedition along the Tana. I have already men- 
 tioned that I had with me a writing from the Sultan of Witu, 
 addressed to the village elders of the Wapokomo. 
 
 The reading aloud of this despatch was always the proud 
 achievement of fat Hamiri, who, according to the varying wants 
 
L]rP/!ES,<<IVE ADDRESS BY IlAMrni:. 103 
 
 of the expedition, read all kinds of things out of it, with a 
 fluency that perfectly amazed us. If it was grain we wanted, 
 he would annouuce to the elders in a loud voice, how it was 
 the particular desire of the Sultan of Witu, that all 
 the ^^ apokomo should hasten to bring corn and maize, imaginative 
 If we required boats, it was boats that formed the ''°°-''™'='^- 
 subject of the Sultan's letter. Astonished, like the ibwls at 
 the preaching of Reynard the fox, the Wapokomo would stand 
 
 /■Ls^sB-S^r^'r 
 
 ' That's the Height oe the Englishman ! ' 
 
 in a. half circle, listening ; and they were filled with the most 
 profound respect when, at the end of this oration, Hamiri 
 exhibited to each in turn the seal of Fumo Bukari, with which 
 the letter was stamped. Then, in conclusion, he would proceed 
 to explain to the people the difference between the Englishmen 
 and me. The Englishmen, of whom every one in the district 
 knew that they wanted to prevent the expedition, he declared 
 to be " kidogo kapissa " (exceeding small), and he would hold 
 his outspread hand about six inches over the ground ; I, on the 
 
104 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 contrary, was "mkubua sana; " and he would hold his hand 
 high — as high as he could, and, as his own height did not seem 
 to him sufficient for the occasion, he would jump two or three 
 feet from the ground. The worthy chiefs of the Wapokomo were 
 then accustomed to quit the conference with a secret shudder, 
 and at its conclusion they would bring together as much as 
 they could collect of the articles demanded by Hamiri ; the 
 only deplorable circumstance was that the said Hamiri was 
 much given to the practice of demanding, say, one half of the 
 supplies thus afforded, for his own worthy person. Whatever 
 could be obtained disappeared in his insatiable maw ; a fact that 
 did not greatly conduce to his popularity in the caravan. 
 
 If at Mitole we succeeded in some measure in supplying the 
 wants of the caravan, aifairs unfortunately wore a very different 
 aspect on the next day at Muina, a village lying about ten miles 
 A difficult further up the stream. The journey thither was already 
 hungry ^^'■T exhaustiug and toilsome. The place lies very 
 march. rnuch hidden in the river forest, and I was obliged to 
 send forward Wapokomo to cut a way for porters and camels 
 through the tangled underwood. Thus we did not arrive at the 
 place until between three and four o'clock. Here the Wapokomo, 
 if indeed they still possessed anything in the way of supplies, 
 had carefully carried it away, and I saw myself compelled to 
 have one of the six oxen I had with me slaughtered, that my 
 people might have something to eat. I immediately entered 
 into negotiations with the chiefs of this place for the supply of 
 boatmen as far as Oda-Boru-Ruwa, and these negotiations were 
 Hiring terminated in a peaceful manner. The twelve Muina 
 boatmen. ^^^ whom I had with me took the boats up safely to 
 the Gallas territory. I put them all under Hamiri's special 
 superintendence, and thus I had personally very little to do 
 with the management of the boats. 
 
 But in Muina my expedition had to experience a porter's 
 tragedy, which, if it had no other result, at any rate decreased 
 my confidence very considerably. After I had made all prepara- 
 tions for next morning's march, I went to bed at nine o'clock ; 
 but I was aroused even before eleven o'clock by my servant 
 
DETAINED AT MUINA. 105 
 
 Rukua, who came to tell me "Pagasi wiote wamekimbia" ("All 
 the porters have run away"). This certainly proved to be an 
 exaggeration, for Nogola came directly afterwards, and E^eiting 
 reported that eight porters had just absconded, taking '^^^^ '='"'- 
 their wives with them ; but these were not coast people, thrporters. 
 but Mangemas. In the fact that the Central African men were 
 beginning to desert lay the alarming element of the affair, quite 
 apart from the inconvenience of the reducing of the expeditiori 
 by the loss of eight bearers. I immediately had the Somalis 
 mustered, and at once despatched six of them in a boat 
 down the Tana to Mitole, with orders to capture the porters, 
 who would make their way to the place by land, or to shoot 
 them down. The Somalis, under the command of Nurr, posted 
 themselves in ambush in the forest near Mitole. As they could 
 not get the porters, who were seen approaching at dawn of day, 
 to stand, they shot two of them, whose corpses were thrown into 
 the river. 
 
 Meantime I lay dozing, with very unquiet dreams, in my tent. 
 I fancied myself back at Neuhaus, on the Elbe, my native place, 
 but still occupied in getting back the absconding porters. The 
 dream ended each time with the sudden discovery that all my 
 porters had run away. Next morning, however, I so far re- 
 strained myself as to compliment Nogola, to whose 
 tribe the runaways belonged, in the presence of all the the best of 
 people, on his vigilance. I thus effaced the evil im- ^*' 
 pression which the absconding of eight men might have made, 
 by putting the others in good humour. I was now obliged to 
 stay at Muina until my Somalis returned from Mitole ; but 
 towards noon, having succeeded in obtaining some maize from 
 the neighbourhood, I sent Herr von Tiedemann with the porters 
 up the river to Mbuji. Meanwhile I remained encamped at 
 
 Muina, with very gloomy prospects for the future. I uespond- 
 derived a certain amount of comfort from the perusal ency and 
 
 n T-* 1 • philosophy 
 
 of a chapter in Schopenhauer's " Parerga " and " Parali- 
 
 pomena," on the apparent design in the fate of the individual, 
 wherein Arthur Schopenhauer demonstrates the necessity of 
 everything that has happened. But after all, in situations of 
 
106 XEW LIGHT ON BARK AFRICA. 
 
 real difficult}-, the thought that we suffer from the inevitable is 
 not a very powerful consolation. Still, as the mind in this way 
 arrives at the recognition of a fixed plan and providence in the 
 world, there is a certain amount of comfort to be extracted from 
 it. It was also on this day that I had leisure to reflect on 
 Goethe's advice, not to be too fond of the sun and the stars, but 
 to follow even into the empire of darkness. The first two lines, 
 Avhich I have prefixed to this chapter, appeared to me at the 
 time especially suitable to our condition, inasmuch as Herr von 
 Tiedemann had suffered, in bodily health, and in elasticity of 
 mind, by the action of the sun, and I had paid dearly for 
 incautiously exposing myself to the starry sky. 
 
 On the evening of August 28th I made up my mind to cross 
 the Tana on the following day, and to enter English territory. 
 On the one hand this would certainly create an additional 
 barrier between my expedition and Lamu, but on the other I had 
 ascertained that the right bank of the Tana was more highly 
 cultivated, and thus would aff'ord better points of support for 
 my advance. The British East Africa Company had, indeed. 
 Foreign previously informed me that it could not allow me to 
 hostility, march through its territory ; but I knew then, as well 
 as I do to-day, that the British East Africa Company had no 
 right to issue such a prohibition, as all these regions fall under 
 the provisions of the Congo Treaty, which guarantees an equal 
 right of colonisation and freedom of transit to all the contracting 
 powers. On the same evening I made Lieutenant -Captain Rust, 
 further down the river, acquainted with this my decision. 
 
 Next morning I was considerably delayed at Muina, because 
 the boatmen engaged by me the day before had not put in an 
 Departure appearance. I was obliged to have the surrounding 
 boatBfrom region rausacked, and pick them up as I could, where- 
 Muina. upon J gent them down under a safe escort to the boats. 
 Shortly before my departure I received, to my great joy, a 
 Good news Communication from Lieutenant-Captain Rust, dated 
 articles of fi'om Ngao, informing me that he had effected the 
 barter. journey to that place, and that the articles of barter 
 that Herr Toeppen had looked after at Zanzibar had already 
 
GOOD TIMES OF PLENTY. 107 
 
 arrived at Kau. This was an extremely welcome piece of 
 news. The dangerously uncertain character that the expedition 
 threatened to assume was now suddenly altered, and the affair 
 brought into a practicable track. If I had articles of barter I 
 could procure means of porterage ; and if Rust was on the 
 Lower Tana, this was another door closed between my porters 
 and the coast. I could now dispose more freely of the few 
 articles I had with me, and thus possible causes of quarrel 
 between the natives and my expedition would be obviated. 
 In buoyant spirits I accordingly quitted Muina, between seven 
 and eight o'clock, and betook myself to the road toM'ards 
 Mbuji. 
 
 It was on this march I had the encounter, already mentioned, 
 with a few hundred armed men, who ran away precipitately 
 before me and a few Somalis. The incident had no further 
 practical result than that of increasing my contempt for the 
 African world in general, and thus working favourably upon 
 my later resolutions. When I approached Mbuji, Herr von 
 Tiedemann met me, and I thought, "What disagreeable news 
 may he have brought ? " Herr von Tiedemann had the 
 same feeling with regard to myself. But this August good for- 
 29th was to be a day of good fortune for us. Herr von 
 Tiedemann had to report that he had discovered an Arab rice 
 magazine of twenty to thirty loads ; while I could give him, in 
 return, the glad tidings of the approach of Lieutenant- Captain 
 Rust. As the rice store was in a territory into which Herr von 
 Tiedemann had forced his way a few weeks before to a supply 
 defend himself against warlike proceedings, we declared o^""^' 
 it to be lawful prize according to the rights of war ; and now, 
 after their sufferings from hunger, my people for the first time 
 revelled in plenty. Men and beasts filled their empty stomachs 
 with the precious grain, and the feeling in the camp was one of 
 pleasurable excitement. 
 
 I determined to cross the river that same afternoon. 
 Towards one o'clock my boats made their appearance ; and 
 now I began, in the first instance, to send across a few soldiers 
 with Herr von Tiedemann, and then boat-load after boat-load of 
 
108 
 
 .V/:il' fJClIT ox HARK AFRICA. 
 
 packages of amiiuuiition was transported to the opposite side. 
 The \A'apokomo of Kosi >,'derani, who had assembled od the 
 opposite bank at our arrival, disappeared like chaff before 
 tlk' wind, so soon as we began to operate with our boats. 
 
 We worked the whole afternoon ; camels, oxen, and 
 of the donke3's were fastened behind the boats, and thus 
 
 taken over to the o]iposite side. In the evening at six 
 o'clock the ])assage of the Tana, had been accomplished. I had 
 
 The pas 
 
 sage 
 
 Tana. 
 
 Crossing the Tana at Mbdji. 
 
 the camp pitched, and the porters were watched all the night 
 through by five sentries with loaded guns. 
 
 When the Nderani people saw that we had succeeded in 
 establishing ourselves upon their bank, and heard that I in- 
 tended to march next morning upon Kosi itself, the Sultan 
 Visit of the appeared in the evening with some of the chief men of 
 Sultan. ^Y\^, j)lace, threw himself on the ground before me, and 
 begged for peace. I enjoined him to furnish a guide on the 
 morrow, to have a way cut through the forest, and to supply 
 
PENINSULA OF KOSI NDERANI. 109 
 
 two miaus. When, on his part, though in a frightened tone, 
 the man demanded presents as restitution for the men shot 
 by Herr von Tiedemanri, I answered him roughly, and this 
 item disappeared from the order of the day. Meanwhile our 
 relation to each other remained but a "sour-sweet" one. 
 
 During the night I three times visited my sentries, who were 
 guarding the porters. While my attention was entirely con- 
 centrated on this point, a Kau Arab, named Ahmed, who was in 
 my service, managed to play me a shabby trick. He unmoored a 
 miau containing nine loads, broke up the loads with an 
 
 1 1 1 T , A piece of 
 
 axe, and sank them down the stream, afterwards over- Arab 
 turning the miau. On the following morning I managed, ^^^^ ^^^' 
 indeed, to recover the miau itself and two loads of preserves, 
 but we had lost two chests of bombshells and grenades, the 
 whole of our library, two loads made up of tea, cocoa, coffee, 
 sugar, and salt, a chest containing tow, revolvers, parts of guns, 
 etc., the only load of beads I possessed, and a load of cognac. 
 Nevertheless I caused the column to march away next morning 
 for Nderani, carrying with me all the boat-loads, which j.oj,fjfig^ 
 from that time I always had regularly landed. In camp at 
 Nderani I established myself in a strong camp, which 
 I caused to be completely surrounded by sentries ; and on 
 August 31st I went with two boats, four soldiers, and two 
 porters back to Mbuji, where I succeeded in finding out the 
 place where Ahmed had sunk the loads. 
 
 The first thing we fished up was Thomson's " Through 
 Massailand," which afterwards did me good service. We 
 worked the whole day long, and presently got up a number of 
 bombshells and grenades. To continue this work I myself 
 remained at Kosi Nderani on September 1st, on which Description 
 day I sent away Herr von Tiedemann with porters and ofNderam. 
 camels to Makers. Kosi Nderani is a charming and ex- 
 ceedingly fruitful peninsula, running out into the Tana, where 
 the French missions of St. Mary and the Sacred Heart esta- 
 blished a station only half a year later ; which, however, had 
 to be abandoned, as the place was too much subject to inunda- 
 tions of the Tana. The Wapokomo here have a wealthy and 
 
110 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 prosperous appearance, for we are now reaching the most 
 productive districts of the Lower Tana. 
 
 On September 1st I succeeded in recovering about half the 
 lost goods from Mbuji, and in procuring two more miaus at 
 Kosi. I had now seven miaus in all, of which I sent one down 
 A supply of to Ngao to Lieutenant-Captain Rust, under guard of a 
 ™^='^=- Somali soldier, with the order to send me part of the 
 articles of barter as soon as he should have got together a 
 small array of boats. On the morning of September 2nd, ^yith 
 a few of my people, I followed Herr von Tiedemann to Makere, 
 after taking a friendly leave of the Sultan and his followers. I 
 was struck by the enormous number of game animals on this 
 tract. Great herds of antelopes awoke the instinct of the 
 Game chase, and I practised, for the first time, the art of 
 animals, pm-guing the herds of antelopes on horseback, and 
 shooting one of them down from the saddle, — certainly with 
 a negative result. This is the manner in which the Somalis 
 are accustomed to hunt ; they kill the lion from their horses 
 with lances. In Makere I found my people safe and sound, and 
 at once entered into friendly relations with the Wapokomo. 
 But when I enjoined them to bring in provisions and to provide 
 guides for the following morning, to lead me to Keredja, 
 the whole population vanished at once ; and to prevent my 
 people from suffering again from hunger I was obliged to supply 
 Tribute Kiyself on my own account, from the ripening maize 
 from the fields. When my men made use of the permission 
 ^'accorded them, the Wapokomo sought to drive them 
 away by force, on which occasion, to my regret, two of them 
 were wounded by my people. The foolish suspicion of the Wapo- 
 komo was continually,'during the further course of the expedition, 
 giving rise to similar incidents. They could not imagine that 
 any one who had so much power in his hands as we possessed 
 could make up his mind loyally to fulfil the obligation incurred, 
 and, like the real " Friend Lampes "* that they are, they pre- 
 ferred to abandon house and home, and, if necessary, wife and 
 
 * Lampe is the hare in the burlesque epic of " Reynard the Fox.'' He 
 i.s depicted as exhibiting the proverbial timidity of his race. — Te. 
 
KIN A KOMBE AND ITS SULTAN. Ill 
 
 child also, rather than maintain relations with us. To get them 
 to come back to Makere I at last threatened that if this were 
 not done I would burn down their village; but even charaoter- 
 this threat, which, by the way, I did not carry into t^g°^f „ 
 execution, did not induce them to return ; and thus it ^0™°- 
 happened that on the following morning I had, for the first 
 time, to start without a guide on my way to Keredja. 
 
 This day again it rained very heavily, and my column had 
 to suffer considerably, especially the camels, which I could not 
 put under shelter at night, and which succumbed, one after 
 another, to the hardships of this Central African climate. 
 Here, at Keredja, however, I had at least friendly intercourse 
 with the natives, who brought me food, and sold me a large 
 miau, which would carry fifty loads. When I had completed 
 this purchase, I sent away two of the miaus I had brought 
 with me to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Ngao. On September 
 4th I arrived at Kina Kombe, the chief place of the , . , 
 
 ^ . Arrival at 
 
 whole territory of the Lower Tana. The place is Kina 
 so hidden in the primeval forest that in the after- "^ ^' 
 noon we had, in the first instance, marched past it, and only 
 arrived, by a very circuitous route, towards five o'clock. Here 
 is a comparatively intelligent Sultan, the only ^\'apokomo 
 on all the Tana who makes anything like a dignified im- 
 pression upon one. Kina Kombe is a great village, surrounded 
 by a strong fortification ; besides the Wapokomo who live 
 here, it is inhabited also by Gallas and Waboni. The j^^g^^g^ 
 Sultan led me into a house belonging to Herr with the 
 Schlumke, who from here had carried on ivory- 
 hunting. In this house I stayed the night. The Sultan 
 declared his willingness to sell me food, and asked me to 
 forbid my Somalis to go into the place, as the Somalis on 
 the one side and the Gallas and Wapokomo on the other were 
 deadly enemies. Food was also brought in abundance, and I 
 determined to stay here through September 5th to feed my 
 people up a little. 
 
 On the morning of September 6th we resumed our route, to 
 reach a camping-place, not far from the English station of 
 
112 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Subakini, by five in the afternoon, after a very heavy march. 
 According to the accounts I had received at Kina Kombe, I 
 had to expect that I should at length meet the English 
 ftatiof expedition of Mr. Smith, whose intention it was, I had 
 at subakim. ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^ further advance up the Tana. 
 
 Consequently, I did not march that evening as far as Subakini, 
 for I wished to bring a fresh and a quiet mind to the contem- 
 plation of this English problem next morning. As the affair 
 greatly interested me, I marched the next day, with ten soldiers 
 and my loaded ordnance in advance, towards the English station. 
 I presumed that I should find Mr. Smith just at breakfast, and 
 already rejoiced when I thought of our salutation. Just before 
 the place, I drew my column of camels around me, made a 
 circuit round the English station, and appeared suddenly on the 
 western side, in sight of it. A lively rattle of musketry 
 resounded in the station when they saw me. I galloped up, 
 and as my Wapokomo ran away the moment they heard the 
 firing, in order to give them courage I jumped my horse over 
 the not very high enclosure of the station. This was certainly 
 not a very prudent proceeding, supposing, as I at first thought, 
 the firing had a hostile intention. But hardly had I 
 the Arab jumped dowu from my horse, revolver in hand, in the 
 garrison, j^^^jg^ ^^ ^j^g Arab garrisou, than they all bowed before 
 me, and kissed my hands. They said the firing had been 
 intended as a salute ; and I heard immediately that Mr. Smith 
 had already marched away a few days ago, and was accordingly 
 still in advance of me. I also received positive intelligence 
 here that the Pigott expedition had gone to wreck on the Upper 
 Tana. The very intelligent chief of the station, a half-breed 
 Arab from Zanzibar, behaved very amiably to us, pointed out 
 a very beautiful camping-place under a mighty fig-tree in a 
 field of maize, brought me rice for my private use, and also 
 poultry, and procured me miaus from the inhabitants of the 
 place, so that I was able to dispatch two more boats the next 
 day to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Ngao. Unfortunately on 
 this day my own six miaus did not arrive, and therefore I 
 resolved to wait for them, with some few of my people, on 
 
SATISFACTORY DEVELOPMENT OF AFFAIRS. 113 
 
 September 8th at Subakini, sending Herr von Tiedemann 
 forward once more with the porters. He was to march upon 
 Sissini, where I would overtake him on September 9th. He 
 was to accomplish the long march to Sissini in two days, so 
 that no loss of time might arise from my waiting at Subakini. 
 Here, from Subakini, I wrote a detailed report to the German 
 Emin Pasha committee, sent the two miaus, as I have stated, 
 to Lieutenant-Captain Rust, and at about two o'clock Arrival of 
 I was rejoiced to see my own flotilla of miaus, under ^fth'tL 
 Hamiri, sailing up with colours flying. I sent this "i^*"^- 
 flotilla onward towards Sissini the same day. Thus things 
 developed themselves at Subakini in a very satisfactory way. 
 How the report could have originated, that was afterwards 
 despatched in telegrams to Germany, that I had established 
 myself here for a lengthened stay, and was waiting at 
 Subakini for goods from the coast, has never been clear to 
 me. Perhaps it arose from the fact that I had my letter from 
 here forwarded through the agency of the English mission 
 at Goldbaute. 
 
 Already on September 9th I marched to Sissini, where I 
 rejoined my main column. Here also I succeeded in procuring 
 plentiful supplies of food for my people. I still 
 
 • 1 , 1 ■ n ^\ L- 11 Sissini. 
 
 contmued to have their hrearms taken away irom all 
 the porters every evening, and posted two sentries to prevent 
 any possible further desertions ; but gradually I began to show 
 more confidence with respect to the people, as the relations 
 between us had desirably altered to my advantage. On 
 September 10th I arrived at Malalulu, where we were 
 altogether out of the territories of the Sultan of Witu. The Ger- 
 Here I resolved to hoist the German flag for the first Sristedit 
 time on the north side of the Tana, to make -it clear to Maiai»i"- 
 the English that the sphere of their interests extended only 
 to the southern side of that river. On a lofty mast our flag 
 was run up, and waved in these regions, for the first time, in 
 the evening breeze, saluted with volleys of musketry and some 
 cannon shots. I had brought over from the Sultan of Malalulu, 
 on the opposite bank, a sheep, to celebrate the day, and on my 
 
114 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 part bestowed on the W apokomo, as a return gift, a camel which 
 had fallen that day. 
 
 From here we went forward in long marches towards 
 Massa, which we reached on September 12th. The grain was 
 Arrival at iiow completelj^ ripe, and the whole Wapokomo com- 
 Massa. munitj in a very jovial humour in consequence. In 
 the next villages to which we came it was rather difficult 
 to meet with sober people with whom we could negotiate, as 
 the yellow grain is consumed chiefly in the form of brown 
 pombes or beer. The consequence to us was, however, that we 
 also had enough to live upon, and the expedition accordingly 
 consolidated itself more and more. Massa is the name of a 
 whole region, whose settlements lie on both sides of the river. 
 The Massa The chief place is on the northern bank of the Tana, 
 region. ^^^ ^^^ Sultau of it asked me to hoist the German flag 
 there, and concluded a treaty of protection with me. To make 
 the relations between us more intimate, I remained in this 
 district on September 13th, because for me and for Rust's 
 column it was of especial importance to completely assure 
 ourselves of this last great place, before entering upon the Tana 
 steppe proper. 
 
 Some distance above Massa the lower course of the Tana, 
 where that river has formed a fruitful alluvial tract in the dry 
 steppe, comes to an end, and we get to the middle part of the 
 Lowest river's course, in which the character of the steppe is 
 Murse^of completely maintained. The middle course is marked 
 the Tana. -\^j ^jjg abseuce of alluvium and by the close approach 
 to the stream of high steppe-shores. We hoisted the German 
 flag on September 18th at Massa in the middle of the village 
 square. It was, as before, saluted with firing of cannon, and 
 in the evening a great popular festival was held in the place, 
 duly to celebrate the joyful occasion. Hamiri was the 
 manager of this popular entertainment, which consisted in a 
 Cheerful general dance of the Wapokomo ; that is to say, of the 
 ^nceofthe male part of the population. To the beat of drum 
 
 Wapokomo. -\^^^■^■, 
 
 and the rhythmical hand-clapping of all the ladies in 
 the place the old Sultan and the different Wapokomo danced 
 
.1 2IERRY VILLAGE C02niUNITY. 115 
 
 along, in all kinds of more or less graceful or ungraceful 
 evolutions, in front the old Sultan, who, during the afternoon, 
 had enjoyed himself over the cognac in my tent, and in his 
 own quarters had already done adequate justice to the pombe. 
 After supper we crossed over to the right side of the river, to 
 get a nearer view of this spectacle ; and when I considered the 
 cowardice of these robust fellows, which had exhibited itself all 
 along the Tana in a perfectly comic fashion, I was obliged 
 involuntarily to think of friend Lampe, with his family, how he 
 enjoys life guilelessly and merrily, but yet is always on the 
 alert to escape by flight from real or fancied danger. Noctnmai 
 Till late into the night the sounds of the "ngoma," or ^^^t^^ai. 
 drum, sounded across into our camp, till at last I made them 
 call out to the people beyond the river, that now there had been 
 enough of it, and I requested they would go to sleep. 
 
 From Massa we marched on September 13th to Bura, which 
 also lies on the left bank of the Tana. Here we arrived as 
 early as eleven o'clock in the morning. I sent to ask the 
 Sultan, on the opposite side, to come across, which he imme- 
 diately did ; and, early as the hour was, the old gentleman 
 was considerably heated ; in fact, he and his whole following 
 were completely drunk at eleven in the morning. They laughed 
 incessantly, and made the most absurd remarks. Con- ^n excited 
 sequently, I sent the Sultan back again, and pointed assembly, 
 out to him that he should despatch to me some one who was 
 not drunk. So, after an hour, his brother appeared, and made 
 excuses for the lofty potentate, who had been enjoying his 
 early pombe, and lamented that the Sultan was in general too 
 much addicted to that liquor. Unfortunately, I had to point 
 out to the brother that he was in no better condition than the 
 Sultan ; but as he replied by naively declaring that he was the 
 least intoxicated man in the whole village, I retained him in 
 my company, with an intimation that he would have to ^^^ g^^^.^^ 
 remain in mv camp until the Wapokomo had brought as a 
 
 ■^ ^ hostage. 
 
 food across for my column. There were, it appears, 
 
 some difficulties connected with this ; accordingly, in the 
 
 afternoon I despatched some soldiers to Bura, which, however. 
 
116 .VEir LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 only resulted in setting the whole populous element scampering. 
 Onlj' the servants of the Sultan's brother, wishing to rescue 
 their master out of my hands, towards evening sent a few 
 boat-loads of maize, for which I paid. As my repeated re- 
 quests were ineflfectual in drawing from their forest retreats the 
 Wapokomo, who must by that time have got over their fit of 
 intoxication, I found myself compelled to borrow a fine large 
 miau without their express permission ; but, as a pledge, I left 
 behind me at Bura one of the small miaus I had brought 
 with me. 
 
 The question of provisioning began to be a serious one for 
 me, as I knew that I was close to the entrance to the steppe, 
 stron ^^^ ^^^^ ^ must get together a supply for a few days 
 measures for my people, to enable me to get to Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
 
 for procur- . . 
 
 ingpro- On the toUowmg day, at Ischarra, I accordingly saw 
 visions, iiayself necessitated, inasmuch as I was sufficiently 
 acquainted with the cowardly tactics of the Wapokomo, to take 
 into custody all the three chiefs of the place immediately on 
 my arrival, to detain them until sufficient corn should be 
 brought in for my column. Here I heard for the first time 
 that hordes of Somalis were roving in the surrounding country. 
 The Wapokomo told me that a few days previously some 
 Somalis had visited them, and plundered them completely out. 
 TheGaiia At Ischarra we first came into the regions of the 
 regions. Galla language. Until we arrived there, the men of 
 higher rank among the W^apokomo had always talked a little 
 broken Kiswahili ; the language of the Gallas now took its 
 place. From olden times the Gallas ruled here, who have now 
 been thrust back upon Oda-Boru-Ruva. I managed, with the 
 utmost exertion, to procure sustenance for us at least for one 
 day, and also to obtain a little meat for the morrow. In view 
 of the danger from the Somalis, I arranged a strict sentry 
 service for the night, with great fires before the camp, which 
 were kept up all night long ; however, no Somali made his 
 xidori, on appearance among us. On September 15th we reached 
 the Tana, gifjoj-i, the last Settlement of the Wapokomo on the 
 lower course of the Tana. I consider this place as forming 
 
ON TO THE UNINHABITED STEPPE. 117 
 
 the point of separation between the lower and middle course of 
 the river. The inhabitants complained that they had been eaten 
 out of house and home by the English expedition of Mr. Smith, 
 and gave me more accurate details on the wrecking of the 
 English expedition by Somalis, which had occurred at a point 
 somewhat above this place. Already at Massa I had received 
 into my column a few porters who had fled there before the 
 catastrophe happened, and had learned the fact that Beported 
 Mr. Smith had been surprised and beaten by a horde smith* "^ 
 of Somalis. Here I heard that in broad day, at three expedition, 
 in the afternoon, thirty Somalis had managed actually to defeat 
 the English expedition of one hundred and sixty men armed 
 with guns, and to hurl it back upon Kidori. This seemed to 
 me not so much to evidence the efficiency of the Somalis as the 
 miserable spirit in the English expedition. For me, it had the 
 effect of making me much more cautious in arranging the 
 details of management of my expedition. 
 
 At Kidori I only succeeded in provisioning my people to 
 a very small extent ; I had therefore to trust to my fortune, 
 and strike into the steppe without a supply of corn, scarcity of 
 Thereby the position of the expedition became a very s"^""^- 
 difficult one. In this steppe, which we entered on September 
 16th, we certainly found here and there settlements of hunting 
 Mboni ; but of these people themselves we nowhere caught 
 sight. There was something quite unearthly about the fashion 
 in M'hich they were acquainted with every one of our move- 
 ments, to the smallest detail, without our even once getting to 
 see them. The Mboni is swift-footed as the antelope Nature of 
 he pursues, and keen-sighted as the falcon he brings ^^^ Mbom. 
 down from the air with his bow and arrow. I had taken two 
 guides with me from Kidori, who were originally to have led 
 me only as far as Oda. So soon as I ascertained that I could 
 not procure other guides onward from this place, I saw myself 
 compelled to put them in chains, and carry them with me 
 through the steppe. Though they were not acquainted with 
 the route by land across the steppe, they had several times 
 gone up the river, and knew its bendings. By hard severity 
 
118 
 
 xr:]]' ijciir <>x i>mik afiuca. 
 
 I effected thus nuicli in a few days, tliat they at least only 
 made such assertions ;is they were sure of bein<i able to verify. 
 
 As regards the road itself, 
 [ was entirely unable to 
 make enquiry in an_v other 
 direction. 
 
 At Oda an incident hap- 
 pened that is characteristic 
 of the spirit existinij; in my 
 expedition, and may there- 
 fore l)e related by me. 
 Hamiri had, as was quite 
 right, the command of the 
 boats; but through his whim- 
 sical egotism, that made hiii] 
 arrogate everything to him- 
 self, a bitter hatred had heeu 
 gradually aroused in the 
 whole column against hira. 
 Hamiri A Mangema bearer, 
 and^pembo- Pembomoto, had 
 
 quarrel. gQ^e tO the plaCB 
 
 where the boats lay, to wash 
 himself. Hamiri w;iuted to 
 turn him away, and without 
 further preface the two were 
 engaged in a violent light, 
 in which their chief weapons, 
 heirribly enough, were their 
 teeth. Pembomoto bit 
 Hamiri in the breast, and 
 Hamiri toue Pembomoto's 
 (■yebrows from his forehead. 
 Thereupon the Mangemas 
 came to me, and demanded 
 that Hamiri should be punished. \>'hen I caused Hamiri, and 
 Pembomoto also, to be put in chains, they suddenly rose up, and 
 
 On the Taxa. 
 
FIGHT BETWEEN PEMBOMOTO AND HAillRI. 119 
 
 threatened that if I would not punish Hamiri, they themselves 
 would attack him and cut him down. The spokesman of the 
 Mangemas was Nogola, a demagogic champion of the first order, 
 who terrorised his people, and at that time still kept the whole 
 column in fear of him. At that moment the question was 
 whether Nogola or I was to be master of the expedition ; and I 
 met his impudent words by ordering all the people to fall in, 
 stationing the Somalis with loaded repeating rifles around the 
 porters, having the latter deprived of their guns, and Nogola 
 put in chains. This settled the affair. From that day Nogola's 
 credit declined rapidly, and the recurrence of a riot such as 
 that of September 16th was out of the question. Here „ 
 Hussein once more rejoiced me by a very neat pro- idea of 
 position, and one that is characteristic of the Somalis. ''"^ "*' 
 "Master," said he, "dost thou wish Nogola dead.P Then, do 
 not have him shot before the porters, or they will all run away. 
 Simply tell him he is to march with the camels to-morrow, and 
 then we will shoot him down from behind." As a distinguishing 
 mark of this proposal, I must add that Hussein and Nogola 
 were very good friends, and continued so during the whole 
 further course of the expedition. Hussein could never rightly 
 understand why, on my part, I declined this exceedingly 
 practical offer of his. 
 
 On Tuesday, September 17th, the real difficulties of the 
 march through the steppe began. In the afternoon, at half-past 
 one, after an eight hours' march, all steaming and a weary 
 glowing with heat, we reached, instead of the camping- "'^"^'='^- 
 place traced out for us, a primitive forest, without finding water. 
 I now perseveringly looked for the traces of the English 
 caravan, which, after being surprised by the Somalis, had 
 advanced again on this side of the river ; and I knew for a cer- 
 tainty that if we did not find the English spoor on this Tuesday, 
 we should undoubtedly be compelled, wanting food as we did, to 
 turn back. Therefore I left to Herr von Tiedemann the com- 
 mand of the expedition, which presently found water, and I 
 betook myself, with Rukua and Nogola, to the search for 
 the English road. At about two o'clock we succeeded in 
 
120 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 finding traces of footsteps. So soon as I had found this, I 
 sent Rukua back into the camp to inform Herr von 
 
 Tr8.cfis of 
 
 the English Tiedemann that I should follow the English traces 
 expedition, ^.^^ j came to their camping -place by the water, and 
 I desired that something to eat and a blanket might be sent 
 to me. 
 
 It is quite unnecessary to give here the description of a 
 march through the steppe, with the sun in the zenith and the 
 More torments of thirst. This has been very often done, and 
 ttnraih^ the reader would after all not get a clear conception 
 the steppe, from a description. After close and repeated observa- 
 tion of my own sensations, I have come to the conclusion that 
 the tortures of thirst bear the closest resemblance to the torments 
 of suffocation. Perhaps the proportion between them may be 
 thus stated : the torment of suffocation is in the same measure 
 more intense, as the time required for dying by thirst is longer 
 than that for death by suffocation. It is, in truth, a fearful 
 torment. On September 17th I had to experience it in all its 
 anguish. We continued marching till sunset, and it was only 
 just before the coming on of darkness that I succeeded in 
 Fire signal breaking through the thicket towards the river, and 
 at the river.j-eaching the bank. To give my servants who might 
 follow me an indication of the way, I ordered Nogola to set 
 trees on fire ; and soon the sea of flame, visible for miles, 
 towered above the steppe, mirrored in the flood of the Tana ; 
 and with its roaring and hissing voice singing a mighty slumber 
 song to me, as, weary to death, with my boots under my head 
 for a pillow, and my loaded double-barrelled rifle resting on my 
 arm, I stretched myself to rest. Towards nine o'clock I heard 
 shots fired at a distance. I answered them, and half an horn- 
 later I was surrounded by a few of my servants, who brought 
 me some food. Herr von Tiedemann had even packed up one 
 of the last half bottles of sekt. With what comfort I set about 
 the business of eating and drinking, only those will understand 
 to whom such situations are known. The feeling of comfort, 
 through contrast of the present circumstances with the past 
 endurance, is converted into sauciness and joviality. Next 
 

 '"^ 
 
 ¥ 
 
 wi 
 
 ^ 
 
STRICT REGULATIONS FOR THE MARCH. 121 
 
 morning at five o'clock I sent Nogola back to the expedition to 
 serve as guide. I myself once more followed the 
 English traces. At ten o'clock I came to the camping- track of the 
 place of that expedition by the river, and here i^"^^"**- 
 awaited the arrival of my column that was marching from the 
 south-east. This day we continued our march till three in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 Such a journey through the steppe is always hot, and as a 
 rule also dusty, but it has great attractions for the leader of 
 an expedition. Beasts of burden and men pass along 
 
 1^ o Severity of 
 
 With equal pace and uninterruptedly, inasmuch as the steppe 
 latter also do not see much temptation in the shadow- ^°^'"^^^^- 
 less plain to fall out of the ranks and rest. When, therefore, 
 the caravan is once set in motion, at least towards the after- 
 noon, it lies entirely in the will and pleasure of the leader in 
 what direction it shall bend its course, or where it shall halt. 
 The preparations for the march used now to begin regularly at 
 five in the morning, and at about a quarter to six the porters, 
 under Tiedemann, would start, while it was generally six before 
 the camels and donkeys could follow. I left the camping- 
 ground when the last beast and the last man had gone. „ 
 
 ~ _ ~ Theroutiue 
 
 Then I would remain behind till the word was passed of march- 
 
 iuff. 
 
 and the steppe reached ; thereupon, as a rule, I rode 
 past the loaded animals, to get the porters in sight. Generally 
 I would turn back once more, to let the camels defile past me. 
 Towards midday I was accustomed to leave these behind me, 
 and gradually to advance to the head of the column. Such had 
 been the rule of march under ordinary circumstances. 
 
 Matters assumed another form now on our march through 
 the steppe, where I had to make out the way and take the head of 
 the column. This steppe would, but for the Tana, be alto- 
 gether untraversable for an expedition with porters ; it is only 
 the Tana, which is here entirely without tributaries, that sources of 
 furnishes the life-giving element of water. That it was ^^^ ^*''^- 
 able to roll such ample masses of water through the sandy 
 plain to the Indian Ocean, made me already at that time form 
 an estimate of the great volume of the sources from which it 
 
122 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 gushes forth. The Tana receives its waters from the same 
 plateaus from which the Nile issues forth to flow northwards. 
 In fact, in its whole conformation it may he called a Nile on a 
 small scale. Like the larger river, it has carried itsownarahle 
 land into the desert, and, as with the Nile, the middle course of 
 the Tana has the real steppe character which I have described. 
 Through this steppe we travelled in a march of five days. 
 It was a march for life or death. After I had slaughtered the 
 last ox, on September 18th, we were for three days 
 
 Tfirriblfi 
 
 suffering without food of any kind, and were exposed, besides, 
 from want. ^^ ^^^ danger of perishing of thirst. On the 17th we 
 reached the region of Korro-korro, which we passed in one 
 day, as we were in continual danger of losing the English 
 spoor, finding no way to the river, and succumbing to thirst. I 
 now made my people march from five in the morning until 
 
 sunset. 
 
 So we went on uninterruptedly on September 18th, 19th, 
 and 20th. The worst day was September 21st, when I marched 
 at the head of the expedition from early in the morning until 
 half-past six in the evening, when at last, in the darkness, I 
 made my way to the Tana, and not only found water, but also 
 the prospect of obtaining provisions next day. On September 
 21st, a Saturday, I found the first settlement of the 
 
 Arrival at 
 
 theGaiia Gallas in Odagalla. Herr von Tiedemann, with the 
 emen . jj^g^j^j-j^y ^f ^jjg porters, did not reach the camp at 
 
 all on this occasion. He was compelled to pass the night in 
 the steppe, amid frightful torments of thirst, although on that 
 night, between Saturday and Sunday, I had the whole forest by 
 the river set on fire, so that the flames blazed up to the firma- 
 ment, as a signal from us to the Gallas that the expedition of 
 the Germans had arrived. It was not until towards noon on 
 the Sunday that Herr von Tiedemann arrived ; all the rest of 
 the day, stragglers were coming in. In the morning I had 
 already succeeded in procuring some maize from the island 
 opposite us, and here, to my regret, I had again been obliged 
 to put in practice the expedient of chaining the Sultan when 
 he paid his visit, because otherwise my column would have 
 
ODA-BOlir-RrVA TN SIGHT. 
 
 12?, 
 
 rim a great risk of actually perishius; tlirouoh hunger. In 
 the afternoon I ^vas also fortunate enough to get a purchase 
 of hens from a neighbouring villasje, so that Herr von 
 
 ■^ ' '- . Beginning 
 
 Tiedemann and I were able once more to refresh our- of better 
 selves with iiesh meat. I remained at Odagalla through- "^^' 
 out iNIonda}' the 23rd, because one of mj" people had not made 
 his wa}" in from the steppe, — a certain Amdurabi, who carried 
 the load containing my private blankets. He appeared at last 
 on September 26th, emaciated and three parts dead, at my camp 
 at Oda-Boru-Ruva. On Tuesday, September 24.th, while it 
 was yet early, 1 broke up my camp Triumphal 
 at Odagalla ; and now, with waving od^-soru- 
 flag and beat of drum, we went ^'^^^ 
 forward to the great Galla sultanate of 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva, seven English miles 
 distant. Towards eleven o'clock we 
 found the path through the primeval 
 forest to the river, and half an hour 
 later avb saw for the first time before 
 ■ us, on the other side of the Tana, the 
 rich plantations and the villages of 
 the Gallas of Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
 
1777/ THE GALLAi< IN ODA-BOIW- 
 RUVA. 
 
 " Within tliy bosom are thy fateful stars." 
 
 SCHILLEE. 
 
 TOWARDS noon I encamped 
 with my caravan in the prime- 
 val forest of the Tana, opposite the 
 settlements of the Gallas, Avhich 
 were seen gleamina; trom the o])po- 
 site side. \Ye had the pleasure — 
 the first occasion for a long time 
 — of once more seeing maize 
 plantations. Bnt the thing to he 
 done was to establish communica- 
 tions with the opposite shore ot 
 the river, which was a matter of 
 -• difficulty, as my boats had not 
 
 Scouts sent yet arrived. I therefore sent 
 
 across the ^ 
 
 ■ .- river. some Souialis across the river, 
 
 which is tolerably broad at this point, and they succeeded 
 in getting possession of a boat, which they brought over to 
 
THE GALLAS OF ODA-BORU-RUVA. 125 
 
 US. They reported that the whole district was deserted. I 
 sent the boat back once more, and made them bring two 
 more Galla boats across. I now crossed with a few soldiers 
 and my servants to the left bank of the Tana, leaving the 
 actual column behind under the guard of Herr von Tiede- 
 mann. As I could not at all tell how the Gallas would 
 behave at our arrival, I at once ordered one of the boats to the 
 maize-fields, to have it filled with grain, and then q^ the 
 taken to the camping-place we had yet to find out. "^^^^ "^«'^- 
 Meanwhile we rowed past a broad fork of the river, followed 
 the southern arm, and at last landed, after an hour and a half, 
 at a little village on the right hand, where I saw a few people. 
 This was a slave settlement of the Gallas, and consisted chiefly 
 of Suahelis of the sultanate of Witu, who had been kidnapped 
 by the Gallas and dragged to this place. It happened by 
 chance that Bin Omar, whom I had with me, had formerly 
 been a very good friend of one of these slaves, named An old 
 Mandutto, and at once resumed his old relations with ance^^^'^* 
 him. Under a mighty tree a bench had been fixed, '^e'^og'^iBed. 
 and here I sat down, at once sending back my boats to bring 
 more men across ; and I sent, moreover, an invitation to the 
 Sultan of the Gallas, asking him to give himself the trouble 
 to come to me, that we might consult about our quarters. 
 They brought me fruit and maize cobs to eat, and apparently 
 the Suaheli were much rejoiced at the arrival of our expedition. 
 
 An hour had passed before Sultan Hugo appeared with his 
 suite. He was a little man, with a very cunning look, dressed 
 in a kind of brown toga gown, and decked out with a -^^ suitan 
 copper chain round his neck, and thick bracelets of the "^ "^aiias. 
 same material. In his hand he carried a lance, according to 
 the custom of the Gallas. 
 
 These Gallas are, as a rule, of an imposing appearance. 
 Tall and of slender build, they exhibit the same type I had 
 formerly admu-ed in the Somalis. The shape of the face is 
 entirely different from that of the negro, and in its narrow, 
 delicately-cut features reminds one entirely of the Caucasian. 
 Their dark eyes have a melancholy look in them, but begin to 
 
126 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 sparkle when their hearts are sth-red by passion. The Gallas 
 belong to the handsomest peoples of the earth, and have some- 
 thing very noble in their carriage. In their language 
 
 Description ^ •' . loi i- -ii 
 
 of the the}' have a close aflanity to the bomalis, with whom, 
 Gauas. nevertheless, they live in deadly enmity. Wherever a 
 Somali and a Galla may meet, they stand towards each other in 
 a state of warfare. The Somalis themselves say that the two 
 had formerly been one nation, but parted, because the Gallas 
 remained faithful to the old national belief, while the Somalis 
 adopted the teaching of Mahomet. The Gallas of Oda-Boru- 
 Ruva, especially, belong manifestly to the race of the Borani 
 Gallas that still ruled in the north, but were in the course of 
 centuries carried down by the Somali flood into the country of 
 the Bararetta Gallas, from whence, according to their own 
 assertion, they were again chased towards the north by the 
 Wakamba. They had now been settled for a long time on the 
 great island of the Tana, which they called Oda-Boru-Ruva, — ■ 
 Oda signifying fork of the river ; Boru, to-morrow morning ; 
 The Wapo- and Ruva, rain ; — and from hence they held under their 
 komo. dominion the Wapokomo, who are seated along the 
 Tana to the neighbourhood of Hameje. These Wapokomo have, 
 indeed, still their own Sultan, who has his place in the councils 
 of the Gallas, but are obliged to do menial service for the 
 ruling Gallas caste, especially in the matter of boat navigation. 
 Besides this, as I have already mentioned, the Gallas keep 
 slaves, who have to do their work in the fields, and other labour 
 of the kind. These slaves are settled in special villages, and 
 also hold possession of some arable land for themselves and 
 their families; but they are never in a position to accumulate 
 property, because what they have is regularly taken from them 
 by their masters, the Gallas. To all appearance the two races 
 lived in a good understanding with each other, the intelligent 
 Mandutto being the representative of Suaheli interests with the 
 The Sua- Dallas ; but a bitter hatred had arisen in secret between 
 heiiofthe the governing race and the governed, and this was 
 
 Tana . o ? 
 
 destined to have a very remarkable influence on the 
 fortunes of our expedition. The Suaheli of the Lower Tana 
 
THE SULTAN HUGO AND HIS MEN. 127 
 
 considered themselves as really the superior race, and gnashed 
 their teeth at the haughtiness with which the proud Gallas 
 treated them. They were especially enraged at the fact that 
 the young Galla warriors seized their wives and daughters 
 at their pleasure. Among the sufferers from this state of 
 things was Mandutto, with whom I soon entered into closer 
 relations, and who afterwards became a valuable member of 
 my expedition. 
 
 Taking all things together, the Gallas of Oda-Boru-Ruva 
 are in a very constrained position, threatened on all sides. In 
 the north they have to defend themselves against the Somalis ; 
 in the west they fight against the Wandorobo, and from the 
 south-west the Wakamba make raids upon their herds. 
 According to my estimate, the Sultan Hugo had, in the position of 
 year 1889, still about one thousand two hundred warriors *''* "^^n^^- 
 at his disposal. " Look at my warriors," he once said to me, 
 when I made it a reproach that the once powerful race had re- 
 treated to this island of the Tana ; " only look at my warriors ! 
 Once they numbered many thousands ; they have now shrunk to 
 hundreds. In every direction we have to fight, and I can see 
 the day coming when the foot of a Galla shall no longer speed 
 through the steppes on the Tana." Thus these Gallas resemble the 
 tribes of North American Indians — stubborn in resistance, but 
 destined to perish ; and there is a mournful strain in their fate. 
 From the outset I had a strong S3"mpathetic feeling for this war- 
 like and heavily-oppressed race — these proud men with the 
 melancholy eyes, and the reserved, pensive-looking girls, whose 
 outward appearance forcibly recalled the type of the gipsy women. 
 This interest was not extinguished in me when, later „^ . 
 
 ° ' Their per- 
 
 on, I was obliged, through the development of events sonai ap- 
 and the hard necessity of self-preservation, to use p^*'^*'"'*' 
 forcible measures against the Gallas ; and it had a great share 
 in deciding the position I took up with regard to the tribe, 
 after the combat I had to wage with them in the night of 
 October 6th. 
 
 The settlements and villages of the Gallas spread them- 
 selves out in a pleasing manner over Oda-Boru-Ruva. The 
 
1-28 
 
 xr.iv Tjanr ox dark Africa. 
 
 foot -wanders there as through a garden, maize field after 
 
 maize field ajipears, interspersed with banana plantations and 
 
 hatatn, fields. The houses are certainly small and 
 
 Beauty of . . • 
 
 their round, after the manner of haycocks, but they are 
 
 conn ry. ^^\^,.^^^ j^^(| jj^^at. Oda-Boru-Ruva had its origin in the 
 alluvium of the Tana, and is an oasis in the midst of the steppe, 
 which se]iarates it towards the east from the cultivated strips of 
 land of the Lower Tana, and towards the south, Avest, and nortli, 
 
 Tana Landscape, near Oda-Boru-Euva. 
 
 from Wapokonin, Massais, and Somalis. Here every kind of cul- 
 tivation would be possible ; for instance, the native tobacco is 
 quite suited to European taste, and was smoked by us for a long 
 time. As the river affords the means of a cheap communica- 
 tion with the coast, so also the fmitfulness oi" the soil and 
 the enchanting loveliness of the landscape directly invite the 
 foundation of a station, the more so as the Gallas themselves 
 declari' that from this part a trade in ivory is already carried 
 on with the elephant countries in the west, and that it seems 
 capable of ready development. 
 
FIRST NEGOTIATION WITH SULTAN HUGO. 129 
 
 In bold sweeping curves the Tana rolls along by Oda- 
 Boru-Ruva, and the eye roves delighted over the river, whose 
 shores are covered either with plantations or with course of 
 stately woods, and which, besides Oda-Boru-Ruva, *^« '^^''^■ 
 forms a number of larger and smaller islands at this part. A 
 breath of sweet poetry rests upon the landscape, and invites 
 the spirit to dreamy and abstracted contemplation. 
 
 When, on September 24th, I entered into my first negotia- 
 tions with Sultan Hugo, I could not suppose that this sunny 
 and poetic region would very soon be the scene of the first 
 serious battle, for the German Emin Pasha Expedition. Sultan 
 Hugo at the very beginning gave permission for my expedition 
 to take up its quarters opposite the island of Oda-Boru- 
 
 If 6Grotis>- 
 
 Ruva, on a place that should be assigned to us. He tions with 
 also said that he would take counsel with the elders of ^^^ ^^^^^ 
 the tribe, to open a regular market for the provisioning of my 
 people. Among the Gallas, the Sultan cannot by himself 
 decide any important question ; he is rather a chosen magis- 
 trate than a hereditary ruler. Although it would appear that, 
 in general, the lineal succession is maintained, the Gallas are 
 not bound to observe it, and the Sultan is even liable to be 
 deposed if he administers his ofiice badly. The decision is 
 always with the council of elders, which also pronounces 
 sentence in cases of heavy crimes committed against members 
 of the community. It was to a council of this sort that 
 Sultan Hugo at once betook himself, in the interior of the 
 island, promising to send me boats, to bring me to the landing- 
 place that should be assigned to me. For further explanation 
 he left with me Gall-Galla, a Galla who had been stolen in his 
 childhood from the Arabs, and had long lived as a slave in the 
 sultanate of Witu. He had gone through an adventurous 
 career, and had lived for years among the Kavallala Somalis ; 
 in consequence, besides knowing the Galla language, he Avas 
 master of the Arabic, Kiswahili, and Kisomali, which was of 
 great value for us. At my wish, he at once sent messengers to 
 my column in the forest, to bring them to the landing-place 
 appointed for them. 
 
130 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 During this time I was waiting for the boats the Sultan had 
 promised ; and with the two boats at my disposal, I caused 
 about twelve men to be carried across the river to me. The 
 boats promised by Hugo not arriving, I declared, towards three 
 o'clock, that I would march down the river bank towards the 
 island till I came to the point opposite the landing-place, and 
 then the Gallas should set me across. The Gallas refused to 
 do this, and I had to threaten them with war, to avoid damaging 
 Difficulties our positiou at the outset, and to carry ray point. For 
 and delays, three-quarters of an hour we marched under Gall- 
 Galla's guidance up the island, and past the settlements of the 
 Gallas. We were not conducted into any of these. At the 
 entrances there were always standing fierce troops of Galla 
 warriors, who gazed with hostile, threatening looks upon the 
 strangers. At length, after passing several Wapokomo villages, 
 we reached a clear space by the Tana river, from which, to my 
 great joy, I could already see my people and camels on the 
 opposite shore. Under a giant tree, with which I was destined 
 to become much better acquainted in the course of the next few 
 weeks, I aM'aited the boat, which soon carried me across to my 
 column on the opposite side. The boat laden with maize, which 
 I had ordered in the morning, had already arrived, and I was 
 accordingly able to distribute food to my people at once. But 
 a really joyous state of mind was not to be attained. 
 
 Our camping-place was a burnt-out steppe, from which the 
 wind continually whirled up black masses of ashes. The view 
 upon the Tana was certainly a charming one, and the landscape 
 in the background presented a striking and yet pleasant wood- 
 land scene ; but I found immediately on my arrival that the 
 locking of our ordnance would not act, and this present case 
 at once suggested serious anticipations as to what might be 
 further in store for the expedition. Here I had to wait for the 
 Waiting second column under Lieutenant-Captain Rust. Sup- 
 second pose a misfortune happened to it, and it did not join 
 column, n^gp -^Tg^g jjy^ perhaps Oda-Boru-Ruva the ultimate 
 point of our German Emin Pasha Expedition altogether ? Yes, 
 for the moment itself I was in grave embarrassment. My boats, 
 
THE CAJIP BY THE RIVER. 131 
 
 with the few articles of barter which I possessed, had not 
 arrived. Would they be sufficient to secure for us so much as 
 a lengthened, peaceful stay at Oda-Boru-Ruva ? — Such were 
 my cogitations as, sitting on a chest, I ordered the camp to 
 be pitched. 
 
 Towards half-past five o'clock Sultan Hugo suddenly made 
 his appearance, with some hundreds of his warriors, on the 
 opposite bank, and summoned me to come to a conference under 
 the above-mentioned great tree. I made a few soldiers step 
 into the boat, and rowed across to Hugo. But these little Tana 
 canoes are so rickety, and my people were so unskilled in 
 managing them, that before we could reach the opposite shore 
 our boat was upset, and I had to proceed, swimming, to the 
 conference' with the Gallas ; a somewhat comic episode, which 
 was frequently repeated during the next weeks, and lost us a 
 load of goods and several guns. When I emerged from the 
 water among the Gallas, dripping with wet. Sultan Hugo an- 
 nounced to me that the Gallas were ready to open a market 
 for us for our necessaries, and that he personally intended to 
 give me some fowls. But when I asked him to send g^^^^^ 
 me one at once, as I had not yet eaten anything that Hugo's coa- 
 
 .,,. 11-.. li cessions. 
 
 day, he considered it would be time enough to-morrow 
 morning ; and I could not induce him to change his opinion. 
 Thus it happened that on this evening we had to satisfy our 
 hunger on boiled maize and butter, and that the newly-awakened 
 feeling arose in my mind, that perhaps the peace policy I had 
 taken up was not, after all, the right one in the face of this 
 arrogant tribe, but that we should perhaps for the first time 
 have to resort to an appeal to arms, to demonstrate whether it 
 was necessary to starve, when the land produced such a store of 
 food for man and beast. I determined, under all the circum- 
 stances, to assume for my part a higher tone towards these 
 proud sons of the steppe ; and next morning, when the Sultan 
 appeared again for a conference beneath the tree, I sent Herr 
 von Tiedemann to represent me. 
 
 Herr von Tiedemann was to offer the Sultan a few presents, 
 tokens of friendship from me ; but only on condition that the 
 
132 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Sultan, on his side, offered me proportionate gifts. This was 
 done. I received a few boat-loads of grain, and bananas, and 
 Change of Several fowls, so that on this day, for the first time, we 
 policy. could at least begin again to take our regular meals. 
 To-day also, to my great satisfaction, my boats with the articles 
 of barter came in ; and, for the time, we should have obtained 
 a regular supply of provisions, by purchase from the Gallas, if 
 they had at once fulfilled their promise of opening a market for 
 us. To induce them to fulfil the obligation they had undertaken, 
 and, above all, to secure ourselves from the danger that con- 
 tinually threatened us, of perishing from hunger, I caused another 
 Its success, foray for grain to be undertaken, on the following night, 
 by three boats, under Herr von Tiedemann. It was completely 
 successful, and caused the Gallas to proceed with the opening of 
 the market without further delay. 
 
 Here in Oda-Boru-Ruva, half a year before, the Englishman, 
 Mr. Pigott, had stayed with his expedition, concerning whose for- 
 tunes I had heard particulars already on the day of my arrival. 
 According to the account given by the Gallas, Mr. Pigott had 
 attempted to push forward in the north of the Tana. But when 
 he had seen the settlements of the Galla tribes to the north he 
 had become apprehensive, and had turned back. Ac- 
 andhis cordiug to Other accounts, which seemed to me more 
 expe 1 ion. gj.gjjj^|j2g^ ]yjj._ pigott was reported to have come upon 
 
 desert steppes in the north, and had turned back for that reason. 
 Then he had attempted an advance southward from the Tana, 
 but had found no food there, and consequently had been com- 
 pelled to march back to Mombassa. Mr. Pigott was said to 
 have founded two stations among the Gallas, and to have left a 
 garrison behind in one of them ; but this garrison had betaken 
 itself down the river ten days ago. Mr. Smith and his expedi- 
 tion had arrived about a week before, after the English garrison 
 had already gone. He had lived there for a few days ; but when 
 Mr. Smith's the uows Came to Oda-Boru-Ruva of our approach, 
 expedition. ^^ Smith had one morning quite suddenly gone, and 
 he, also, had marched back through Ukumba to Mombassa. 
 The Gallas added that there was no connection for an expedition 
 

 i i 
 
COUNTERACTING MEASURES. 133 
 
 towards the west, because no people lived there, and nothing 
 but the broad steppe was before us. If one marched further 
 towards the west, one would get into the mountains, which we 
 could already see when the sun was going down, rising here and 
 there on the horizon. 
 
 According to the London agreement, the Tana was to be 
 the boundary of the territory of English interests ; therefore the 
 English had no kind of right to establish stations northward of 
 the Tana. Mr. Pigott had, notwithstanding, done this, wherein 
 I was neither able nor desirous to alter anything. But in order 
 to get the spirit of the London agreement acted upon here, I 
 began on my side systematically to work at bringing the Theiondon 
 Gallas under German sovereignty, and to induce the ^s'^eement. 
 Sultan and the elders of the tribes, as an outward sign of this, 
 to solemnly hoist our flag in the north of the Tana. These 
 matters occupied me very seriously during the next days, and 
 led to a very favourable result for us. 
 
 It was on September 28th, at two in the afternoon, that I 
 met the Sultan Hugo and the great men of the Gallas, under 
 the before -mentioned tree on the further side of the Tana, at a 
 great consultation, to bring the question to a definite Great con- 
 conclusion. I sent several boat-loads of soldiers in withsuitan 
 advance, then I myself followed, and gradually had ^~so. 
 my whole force, with the exception of the camp sentries, ferried 
 to the island. I had our two carriers' chairs taken across for 
 Herr von Tiedemann and myself, and on these we at once took 
 our places. Besides Sultan Hugo, three sultans of the Wapo- 
 komo had made their appearance, to take part in the delibera- 
 tions. From the Sultan Hugo, with whom I had discussed the 
 affair beforehand, I had heard that there was among the Gallas 
 a strong opposition to my proposals, and I therefore made up 
 my mind for an interesting assembly. Beside and behind Hugo 
 reclined the warriors of the Gallas, with whom my Somalis 
 exchanged looks of defiance. The hatred between the ^hreaten- 
 two races was so strong, that several times I had the i^s^oi 
 greatest trouble to prevent a sudden outbreak and blood- 
 shed. Every moment the Gallas were starting up, brandishing 
 
134 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 their spears, to rush upon the Somalis, or my Somalis were 
 bringing their musket stocks to their shoulders to shoot down 
 the Gallas. To prevent this, Sultan Hugo recommended me 
 to send hack mj^ soldiers to the opposite shore ; but in view 
 of the many hundreds of Galla warriors assembled there, I 
 could not make up my mind to this. While we were negotiat- 
 ing, there was a continual streaming to and fro of the people, 
 so that the whole produced a very lively effect. 
 
 I opened the proceedings with a short address, in which I 
 asked the Gallas if they wished to have peace or war with me. 
 Thereupon Sultan Hugo and the elders of the Wapokomo 
 expressed their opinion at great length something to the follow- 
 ing effect : " We know that thou art a great man, and hast 
 , much power, and that thou mayst have still more. 
 
 Fair words ^ ' •' 
 
 andpeacefui We have also heard that more Germans are following 
 thee, and will soon arrive here. Thou art as God, 
 compared with us, and we wish for peace with thee. There 
 have been Englishmen here, too. But we know that the 
 Englishmen are quite little, and thou art very great. Thou art 
 as God. Give us peace, great Lord ; we will do everything 
 that thou desirest." To this I replied as follows, after the 
 general sentiment of the peace party among the Gallas had 
 been thus declared : " I have been sent hither by the great 
 nation of the Germans (' Wadutschi'). W^e dwell in the 
 middle of Europe, and are the strongest of all the nations of 
 the earth. You know the English and you know us ; you can 
 judge for yourselves which of us is the greater. But we make 
 war upon those who attack us first ; we overthrow them and 
 kill them ; while we give peace to all those who wish to live 
 peaceably together with the Germans. We protect the weak ; 
 we cast down the strong, if they rise up against us. I am 
 Expiana- "ow Only passiug through the country of the Gallas, 
 in'ientionY ^^*^ ^"^ g°i°S ^0 march far to the west, through the 
 andde- Massais, to a great German who lives alone in the 
 
 maads. ■in n a /> • 
 
 middle of Africa ; and in this, if you wish to be our 
 friends, you must help me. Westward of this is a great moun- 
 tain, which is white ; to that I wish to go first, and what I 
 
SUBmSSION OF THE GALL AS. 135 
 
 want of you is, that you give me guides thither. That is the 
 mountain Kenia, in the land of the Massais ; thither I want 
 guides from you. I know that on the way thither there is no 
 food for us, therefore I want food from you, and hoats to carry 
 it up the river. If you will help me in these two things, I am 
 ready here to hoist our flag, which the Somalia know very well, 
 and which will prevent them from attacking you. Here is a 
 writing of the Somalis, that I will leave here with you. It is 
 from the Sheriff Hussein. In case the Somalis should come, 
 show it to them, and they will he your friends." 
 
 Long discussions now arose, after the Gallas had declared 
 themselves willing to grant my requests generally. Twelve 
 hoatmen were provided for me at once, whose names I entered, 
 and who only asked permission to go to their homes and 
 take leave of their families, before removing into my camp. 
 Three guides were also brought before me, who were to show 
 me the way over Hamege, and from thence to the Kenia. It 
 was five o'clock when these matters were settled, and I laid 
 before them the treaty, which, in pursuance of the unanimous 
 decision of the popular assembly. Sultan Hugo signed next morn- 
 ing in the name of the Gallas. The treaty is worded thus : — 
 
 " The following treaty is this day concluded between Dr. 
 Carl Peters and the Galla Sultan Hugo : 
 
 " Dr. Peters acknowledges as Sultan's territory the Treaty 
 land on the Tana, from Massa to the Kenia. suiu^n an/ 
 
 " Sultan Hugo places himself, with all his territory, ^^- ^^t®"^^- 
 under the protection of Dr. Peters. Dr. Carl Peters will endea- 
 vour to obtain for the Galla sultanate the friendship of His 
 Majesty the German Emperor. 
 
 "Nevertheless this treaty is not dependent upon the 
 granting of the protection of the German Empire or upon its 
 ratification by any European power. 
 
 " Sultan Hugo cedes to Dr. Carl Peters the right of working 
 the country above and below the ground in every direction. 
 
 " This right especially includes the exclusive commercial 
 monopoly, the right of establishing plantations, and the exclu- 
 sive mining monopoly. 
 
136 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 "If gold is found, Sultan Hugo is to have a quarter of the 
 net profit from the production of it. 
 
 " Dr. Carl Peters is to be supreme lord in the country of the 
 Gallas, to command the armed forces, and judge the people. 
 
 " This is done for the blessing and welfare of the Galla land. 
 
 "After several long conferences, and after its contents have 
 been deliberated, and unanimously resolved upon, in a great 
 public popular meeting by the Gallas in general, this treaty is 
 formally concluded this day by Sultan Hugo and Dr. Peters. 
 
 "Dr. Peters. 
 
 " Hugo's mark. 
 "Von Tiedemann. 
 Mark of Hugo Valogalgal, brother 
 
 and Prime Minister of the Sultan. 
 The Interpreter's mark." 
 
 " Witnesses 
 
 This treaty was accepted amid lively acclamations, and was 
 signed by us the next morning. Meanwhile my people pro- 
 vided a tall stem of a tree, and dug a hole, to raise the German 
 flag with all due ceremony. I considered it more correct to have 
 the actual business of hoisting done by the Gallas themselves. 
 , So the Sultan and his great men had to accommodate 
 
 Kaismg of 
 
 the German themselves to fastening up the flagstaff and running 
 *^' up the flag. When the sun disappeared in the west 
 
 behind the mysterious chains of mountains, which, according to 
 the opinion we held at that time, bounded the Massai territories, 
 the black, white, and red flag waved for the first time in the 
 evening breeze over the Upper Tana, saluted with three volleys 
 by the whole of my people, while the slim forms of the Galla 
 warriors danced around it. That this whole procedure made 
 a deep impression upon the people is proved, among other 
 circumstances, by the fact that at the^end of December, two 
 months after my departure, Herr Oskar Borchert found the 
 flag still there, and regarded by the Gallas with a kind 
 of superstitious awe. 
 
 During the following days, I had the opportunity of making 
 nearer acquaintance with the lovely island of Oda-Boru-Ruva 
 
THE EXPEDITION A2I0NG THE GALL AS. 137 
 
 and with the peculiar manner of the Gallas. Unfortunately, on 
 September 29th, Herr von Tiedemann fell so sick, whether of an 
 affection of the spleen or the liver we did not know, that I was 
 most seriously alarmed for his life, and made him the 
 proposition that he should go back to the coast Herr von 
 in our great boat. Thus for the weeks that were next ''^'®^^"*°"- 
 to come I was to depend entirely on myself; and the powerful 
 magic of solitude is thrown over the recollections of these 
 sunny days of Oda-Boru-Ruva. Sunny days they certainly 
 were. Between two and three o'clock the thermometer, in 
 the deepest shade, regularly attained a height of 45° (centi- 
 grade thermometer). The heat was now and again simply 
 almost intolerable, but the ground was dry, and there were 
 no real cases of fever in the expedition. Of an afternoon, 
 when the sun was sinking, I was in the habit of „ . 
 
 ° Sojourn 
 
 having my horse saddled, and making excursions among the 
 into the wide and wonderful steppe. I would gallop 
 for two or three miles towards the west, to a hill, from 
 which the eye could range far to the dark mountains behind 
 which our destiny would have to be fulfilled. When evening 
 drew on, and the moon shone down upon the dreamy landscape, 
 I was accustomed to sit in front of my tent, and listen to the 
 rushing of the Tana, bringing down mysterious tidings of the 
 countries beyond the mountains. A deep peace and sweet 
 repose lay spread over this region in such tropical nights. 
 "When Orion flames exactly over us, or the Southern jj^^g^.^^^. 
 Cross stands in the heavens, and the whole firmament picai 
 glitters with the sparkling of the stars, the heart 
 trembles with awe at the Eternal, and the Godhead is vividly 
 brought before the soul. In face of the wonderful vicissitudes 
 of this expedition, the heart, from a natural necessity, reverted 
 more and more to this last source of comfort ; and herein was 
 the sublimity of these lonely hours. 
 
 That we might not altogether waste our time in idleness, 
 I began already on September 29th the task of founding a 
 German settlement on the island of Oda-Boru-Ruva. In the 
 course of the next fortnight a neat little house arose on the 
 
138 
 
 XEW LIGHT ON JiAUK AFRICA. 
 
 opposite shore, thatehed with straw aiKl Iniilt oC wood ; it con- 
 tained three rt)oms. A strong fence ran roiuid tlie little building 
 ,„ (in three sides, and on the fourth, the river front, I had 
 
 New settle- ' . 
 
 ment. The;,, laudiuu-place made for the boats, i his settlement, 
 Heydt"' to which I liad a shed for goods added, 1 called " Yon 
 ^°''''' der Heydt House." I had caused it to be erected 
 especially with reiereiice to the secoud colunu), whose arrival 
 I expected, and in the hope of establishing a route lor traffic 
 from here to the Baringo, where I pur])osed founding a 
 second station. Mv idea was to be able, irom hence, to direct 
 
 "]''■'" 
 
 Von dek Hetdt House. 
 
 the ivory traffic of the Massai territories to Germany, and to 
 establish a rivalry with the English Mombassa route. 
 
 The English station, which still stood on the opposite side 
 of the river, was in those days burnt by the Gallas, and I was 
 powerless to prevent it. If the hopes I entertained while 
 founding the Von der Heydt House have not been realised, 
 at least the little settlement afforded me, during those 
 
 , ^. October davs of 1889, the full and pure enioyment of 
 
 Completion - ' i j j 
 
 of the labour as such. When the house was completed we 
 
 Tl Oil RP 
 
 made a little tablet, on which we inscribed in Roman 
 characters the name, " Von der Heydt Haus, 1, 10, 1889," and 
 we fastened the tablet to a pole on tlie left (if the house. Herr 
 
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE GALLAS. 139 
 
 Borchert found both house and tablet in perfect preservation in 
 December. 
 
 But fate refused to fix the pure impressions of peaceful 
 industry upon our residence at Oda-Boru-Ruva. My relations 
 with the Gallas, which were at first hearty enough, unsatisfac- 
 gradually began to cloud over. The burning of the *?J^ "^^^j^ 
 English station (an act committed without my order) theGaiias. 
 annoyed me, and I was put still more out of humour by the 
 fact that when, on October 5th, I sent to the second English 
 station for the articles of barter there, which I wanted to 
 have deposited in security at my own place, these articles had 
 vanished, and were already in the hands of the Gallas. Accord- 
 ingly, on October 6th, I despatched a categorical request to 
 Sultan Hugo for the restoration of these English articles of 
 barter. He came to me personally, in a very friendly manner, 
 and remained all the afternoon in my camp, explaining to me 
 that he had not had the custody of the English wares, for that 
 the Englishmen had confided the care of them to another 
 Galla ; and that altogether he did not believe there „ , 
 
 ' ° Hugo's 
 
 had been English goods left at the station at all. I doubtful ex- 
 
 . . , 1 p 1 planation. 
 
 was not m a position to test the truth oi these asser- 
 tions, but declared myself satisfied with Hugo's explanation. 
 Meanwhile, however, another affair had been maturing, which 
 led to strife and combat. The Suaheli slaves Mandutto and 
 Yembamba had put themselves into communication with 
 Hamiri, in the first instance, and through him with me, with 
 the enquiry if, in case of their coming into my camp with their 
 fellow-tribesmen, I should be willing to take them under my 
 protection against the Gallas. After some negotiation, I de- 
 clared that I would protect all those Galla slaves who could 
 prove that they had neither been bought by the Gallas, nor had 
 become prize of war, but had simply been stolen. Thereupon 
 thirteen men had had themselves inscribed on my lists, being 
 able to furnish the required proof. I informed the ^^^ g^j 
 Sultan Hugo of this on October 6th, and he replied tan's re- 
 
 ~ , T T T 1 1 monstrance. 
 
 that I was lord of the Gallas, and could do as I thought 
 
 right, but that his tribe would look upon such a proceeding 
 
140 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 on my part as a violent measure. Sultan Hugo had a very 
 beautiful wife, of gipsy-like appearance, but no children. He 
 hoped that I could give him a charm to remove this trouble, 
 and this formed one of the subjects of our conversation. I 
 promised to give him a final answer the next morning. 
 
 A fine moonlight night was ushered in by the evening of 
 October 6th. 1 had been still sitting in front of my tent towards 
 nine o'clock, and then I went to bed. Towards ten o'clock I 
 Mas aroused by the sentry before my tent, who reported that 
 Yembamba and Mandutto had appeared on the other side of 
 Alarming the Tana, with the news that the Gallas were holding 
 reports. ^ great stormy council, and had just determined to put 
 the Suaheli slaves in chains, and to attack my camp that 
 same night. I have from the beginning, throughout the whole 
 expedition, where I considered a conflict as unavoidable, 
 adopted the tactics of being the attacking party, so as to 
 secure to myself the advantages of the initiative. I was much 
 too weak in numbers to afford to practise concession in dealing 
 with the warlike propensities of the proud tribes of Northern 
 East Africa ; and I am convinced that we should have all been 
 lost men, if I had attempted such a yielding policy as would 
 have strengthened the lust for combat in our opponents and 
 weakened the courage of my own men. If the Gallas really 
 attacked my camp on October 6th, in the night time, it was 
 Difficult very probable that they would be beaten back. On 
 position. ^]^g Q^j^gj. j^g^jj^^ ^Yie task of resisting them would pro- 
 bably cost a great many more cartridges than an attack on my 
 part ; and, what was more important than all, the morale of 
 my troops must suffer considerably, if they found that my 
 position was not even strong enough to deter black men from 
 attacking our camp. Therefore I made up my mind at once 
 to bring the whole thing to an issue that very night. 
 
 I got up, ordered a short trumpet signal to be given, took 
 ten soldiers and twenty-five porters with me, and without 
 acquainting the sick Herr von Tiedemann, whom I supposed to 
 be asleep, with my intention, I crossed to the opposite side of 
 the Tana. For half an hour we marched towards the south- 
 
COMBAT WITH THE GALL AS. 141 
 
 south-east upon the Sultan's kraal, in which the council was 
 being held. When I look back upon the events of this night, 
 I can see that the attitude I took up showed a great Decisive 
 want of experience in these matters. Later, I should measures 
 not have thought of doing what I did on October 6th, theGaUa 
 which was to advance with eight men of my main column, and 
 with these first eight, among whom was not one of my Somali 
 soldiers, to step, without ceremony, into an assembly of Gallas, 
 who were excited by the liberal use of beer. But I did not yet 
 believe in an impending battle ; I thought that I should succeed 
 in overawing, the people by my appearance, and in adjusting 
 the points in dispute between us by a consultation. So I 
 entered the Galla kraal, from which hoarse cries had reached 
 me from afar, and called twice aloud to the assembly, " Amani, 
 amani ! "(" Peace, peace ! ") But I had considerably over-esti- 
 mated the effect of my appearance. The answer to my 
 coming was, that a Galla warrior hurled his lance of Gaiia 
 at my head, grazing my ear, while a second made a ^°'"^'"^°- 
 thrust at my chest, which attack I only escaped by Hamiri's 
 dragging me on one side, whereby I fell on the ground, and 
 struck my head against the barrel of his gun. I pulled out 
 my revolver to shoot the Galla down, but unhappily my re- 
 volver cartridges missed fire, and I had to seize my rifle to 
 defend myself. For a moment the position was critical ; but 
 after we had fired on the whole about six volleys, by which the 
 Sultan and seven of his chief men were laid low, the matter 
 was decided within three minutes, and the whole tribe sudden 
 was scattered abroad. The Gallas were so completely fiiur°e™'f the 
 frightened, that some of them fled as far as the coast, "Sana's' 
 and there spread the report that I had fallen ; by which means 
 Europe for several months stood under the impression that our 
 expedition had been wrecked by the Tana, and that I myself 
 was dead. 
 
 When the fight was over I felt, indeed, the proud intoxica- 
 tion of the victor, but also a great disturbance of the nerves at 
 the thought of the first shedding of human blood. But there 
 was no time for such reflections ; circumstances urged us to 
 
142 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 action. I at once perceived that it would be of the greatest 
 importance for the safety of my expedition, if I could secure 
 Necessity myself by a pledge against further enterprises of the 
 ofottain- (][a,llas. Accordingly I had all the women who were 
 
 ing nos- ^ •' 
 
 tages. hidden in the kraal, twenty-three in number, brought 
 out of their houses, to carry them with me into my camp. I 
 also found some men, Avhom I likewise carried off as prisoners 
 of war. I could not help perceiving, also, that it would probably 
 be no longer possible to obtain grain from the Gallas by pur- 
 chase, and so, the same night, I took possession of all the 
 stores I could find, and on the following days I increased these 
 The Gallas by further boat-loads that I caused to be brought across 
 ftor^s *° ™®- ^'^ *^® whole I succeeded in heaping up about 
 seized. eighty boat-loads of corn in my camp. Proud as 
 Thusnelda,* the wife of Sultan Hugo marched back, with 
 her companions in misfortune, into my camp, when towards 
 one o'clock we left the island. From the Sultan's kraal I 
 had marched at once into the slaves' village, and had here 
 set free about thirty slaves, men, women, and children, and 
 immediately taken them into my camp with all their property. 
 When I awoke on the morning of October 7th I stood face 
 to face with quite a new condition of affairs. Now I was the 
 true lord in these regions ; " there was nothing that did not 
 belong to me." But my situation, nevertheless, looked at m 
 its true light, was a worse one than that of the day 
 to^fte" ^* before ; for how, without the Gallas, was I to find 
 Tana? ^^^ ^^^^ ^p ^j^^ Tana river ? How could I hope to 
 
 regain communications with my second column if I lived in 
 enmity with this race, who could always interrupt the com- 
 munications between Massai and Oda-Boru-Ruva ? How, in 
 conclusion, could my plans, which I attached to the founding^ 
 of the Van der Heydt House, be fulfilled, if the Gallas quitted 
 the neighbourhood and it became converted into a desert, like 
 that which bordered Oda-Boru-Ruva to the east and west? 
 
 * ThiTsnelda, in the history of the ancient Germans, was a heroic German 
 woman, the wife of Hermann, or Arminius, the conqueror of the Roman 
 general Varus, at the battle of the Teutoburg Eorest, a.d. 9.— Tk. 
 
NEGOTIATIONS REOPENED WITH IHE GALL AS. 143 
 
 Added to this, I had just received the news, on October 7th, 
 that the Somalis had encamped by the river, between me and 
 the coast, and, in a body five thousand strong, were The hostile 
 cutting oif the communication down stream . A few days somaiis. 
 before I had sent off a report to Germany and to Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust. On October 7th my messenger Abocca returned 
 with the announcement that he had found it impossible to 
 make his way through the Somalis. 
 
 These considerations determined me to make the attempt 
 to resume peaceful relations with the Gallas ; accordingly, 
 already on October 7th I dismissed the men I had Fortifying 
 captured, with a message that the Gallas might return, *® ''^'"P' 
 for I was willing to deliver up their wives to them. At the 
 same time, I began that day to "fortify my camp, by having 
 strong palisades and an almost impenetrable thorn fence raised 
 around it. Three gates gave access to the camp — one above 
 and one below, close by the river, and the third at the back. 
 A double post of sentries was established at these gates night 
 and day, and the sentries were visited every night by me or by 
 my worthy Hussein Fara. I may mention that it was my prin- 
 ciple, in the further prosecution of the expedition, to consider 
 the deep responsibility of guarding against chance surprises by 
 hostile tribes. I knew that I owed it to my people to take care 
 that a surprise, either by night, or on the march, or under any 
 circumstances, should be a thing that could not happen to the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition, and that, whatever our fate 
 might be, it was for me to secure to the expedition the Boldness 
 possibility of fighting against destruction to the last, autr"*''"^ 
 Therefore I determined to be bold in my general deci- necessary, 
 sions, but in details to cultivate the greatest and most painful 
 caution. Thus there was now introduced in the German Emin 
 Pasha Expedition a guard system that has not, I think, been 
 surpassed, up to the present time, in the history of African 
 explorations. In me Massai lands, afterwards, eight ^^^^^^^^^ 
 posts were established, almost regularly every night, ^^^^''**<'^- 
 and the sentries were visited every hour. Before the 
 . posts I caused great fires to be lighted, that we might overlook 
 
144 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the ground about us, while the camp itself was kept dark. I 
 afterwards abandoned altogether the s}'Stem of fencing in my 
 camp, because it took from my people the proud feeling of 
 superiority and security which was the only basis of victory for 
 my little column. Our safety depended entirely on our sentry 
 service. 
 
 The negotiations with the Gallas went on for some days. 
 On the evening of October 8th Gall-Galla made his appearance 
 Gaii-Gaiia'sii ^^7 camp. His tribe had been restored, he said, and 
 cunning, jjg offered himself to me as a servant. The sly fellow 
 only wanted to have a pretext for finding out how I was in- 
 clined towards the men of his tribe. I learnt from Gall-Galla 
 that the Gallas had chosen a new sultan, named Gollo, and 
 that they were willing to enter into negotiations with me con- 
 cerning the arrangement of a peace. On October 15th the 
 assembly of the people was to be held, in which I would treat 
 Sultan with the Gallas. They duly made their appearance, 
 GoHo. ]3y(- tjieii- young sultan Gollo had considered it prefer- 
 able to solace himself with beer, and thus missed the sitting, 
 which took place on October 16th. On that day I crossed 
 the river, and found Gollo to be a young gentleman of very 
 cavalier-like appearance ; he had almost the outward style of 
 an officer in the Guards, and did not assume any great humility 
 of behaviour towards me. He demanded that before he entered 
 into negotiations with me for peace, I should pay blood-money 
 for the fallen Gallas, according to the custom of their tribe. 
 To deal with him, I affected an access of fury, seizing my 
 three-legged stool, and throwing it at the Sultan's head. I 
 jumped up, and declared that if the Gallas came with such 
 demands, I, for my part, should prefer war ; and I now ordered 
 them to choose another sultan, — that I did not wish to nego- 
 Deposition tiate any more with Gollo. This produced its effect. 
 Sultan"' That very same day Gollo was deposed, and a man 
 sadeh. named Sadeh, who was friendly to the Germans, and had 
 been on a good footing with me from the beginning, was chosen 
 sultan. Gollo also betook himself that very same day to " sum- 
 mer freshness ; " that is to say, he went elephant-hunting, and 
 
A TREATY OF PEACE. 145 
 
 we soon heard that he had succeeded in killing an elephant. I 
 entrusted to Sadeh the sultanate in my name, and placed Gall- 
 Galla at his side as my agent and as chief of the station " Von 
 der Heydt House." On October 16th the negotiations with 
 Sadeh were brought to an end in the following treaty : — 
 
 "Von der Heydt House, October l&th. 
 
 " The two undersigned herewith conclude peace and 
 friendship : 
 
 " Dr. Carl Peters, Chief of the German Emin 
 
 Pasha Expedition ; and 
 " Sadeh, Sultan of the Gallas. 
 " Dr. Peters respects the lives and property of the ^^^. 
 Gallas. i®*^^? 
 
 Dr. Peters 
 
 " The Gallas unreservedly acknowledge Dr. Carl and suitan 
 Peters as their lord. 
 
 " They promise to respect the station ' Von der Heydt 
 House,' and to co-operate in its extension. 
 
 "They undertake to support, with all their strength, the 
 expedition of Dr. Peters and his gentlemen. 
 
 " The whole of the land on the ' Von der Heydt Islands ' 
 belongs to Dr. Peters, and the Gallas will sell ivory only to 
 him and his representatives. 
 
 .„. -,. ("Dr. Carl Peters. 
 {btgned) |<<g^^^^^ Sadeh's mark. 
 
 f" Von Tiedemann. 
 "Sec. Lt. k.l.s. of the Dragoon Regiment 
 
 Von Wedell (Pomerania, No. 11). 
 " Mark of the Galla Galgalla. 
 " „ Galla Galgalla Mse. 
 
 " ,, Somali Hussein Faea. 
 
 " „ Porter Headman Musa. 
 
 " ,, Bana jMaku, second servant of 
 
 Dr. Peters. 
 
 " „ MSUAHELI SaDIKL 
 
 " Certijied as correct, 
 
 " Von Tiedemakn." 
 10 
 
 Witnesses 
 
146 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 The negotiations were this day conducted in the Von der 
 Heydt House, and were accompanied by all the ceremonial of 
 The treaty the Galla State. They were confirmed by the present 
 ratified. qJ ^ gheep wMch Sadeh had brought with him. This 
 sheep afterwards had a somewhat curious destination, half of it 
 being made into invalid soup for one of the camels, a medicine 
 which had been hit upon by those wise gentlemen, my Somalis. 
 " Give him some soup, sir," said Hussein. 
 
 During those days I wrote down a series of observations 
 and notes concerning the Gallas, which I intended to send to 
 Germany. I left this budget behind me at Oda-Boru-Ruva ; 
 but unfortunately it has not been delivered up to Herr Oskar 
 Borchert. Probably the Gallas were afraid, and that with 
 Missing reason, that in my reports I had given information of 
 reports, j^y fight with them ; and thus they preferred to sup- 
 press the whole packet. Thus it happened that in Germany 
 they were for months without any news of me, as later reports, 
 which I sent off for Germany from Hargazo and Murdoi, also 
 did not get further than Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
 
 I likewise resumed my excursions in the neighbourhood, 
 during which I saw a mountain ridge gleaming to the north of 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva ; probably it represented the watershed between 
 Discover J^^a and Tana. I have called these mountains Galla 
 of mountain Mountains. But I especially devoted much pains to 
 procuring information concerning the upper course of 
 the Tana, as well from geographical interest as with reference 
 to the further march of my expedition. The moment when we 
 should resume our march was necessarily approaching. Week 
 after week went by, and in vain did I look longingly down the 
 river, waiting for my second column under Lieutenant-Captain 
 
 Waiting -^"^*' °^' ^* ^^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^S° °^* lif^ fro'^ that direction, 
 for Bust's The full moon came and waned, and no news reached 
 
 column j^~. 
 
 me. The Somalis advanced to Oda Galla, about six 
 miles off. Where was Lieutenant-Captain Rust, and what had 
 become of my second column? Already on October 8th I 
 had made the sacrifice of sending Hamiri with Muhamed, a 
 Somali, down the river to re-establish the communications 
 
THE SECOND COLUMN IS 3IISSING. 147 
 
 with Rust. Two weeks went bjs and of them, too, there was 
 no intelligence ! 
 
 I was now obliged to look a very serious decision in the 
 face. I did not possess any articles of barter for the Massai 
 lands, with the exception of a load of iron wire and half a load 
 of beads. Should I, setting at nought all African 
 
 PGrulBxitiGB 
 
 traditions, risk the march among the dangerous tribes and 
 of the west, or should I, under all the circumstances, ^*°^*"- 
 wait at Oda-Boru-Ruva, at least until I heard news as to the 
 fate of my second column .P But this waiting consumed the 
 collected supplies to no purpose, and depressed the spirits of my 
 troop. Beyond this, every month of delay might jeopardise the 
 fate of the undertaking in the Equatorial Province itself. I 
 could not expect an answer to this question from without. The 
 stars to which I gazed up enquiringly remained voiceless, and 
 no token was vouchsafed to me by Providence ; unless, indeed, I 
 chose to interpret as such a jesting oracle I one evening setup 
 on my own account. My expedition was still in possession of 
 a herophon, into which I placed plates for playing different 
 pieces of music. One evening I determined to seek for an omen 
 in reference to the further fortunes of the expedition ah appeal 
 by means of this instrument. In the darkness I put in *° *^*^' 
 the first plate that came to hand, with the idea of taking the 
 character of the piece that turned up, as a sign from Heaven. 
 I could not help smiling when, all at once, the well-known 
 march from Carmen rang out. I shall, however, be believed 
 when I say that my decision was not actively influenced by this 
 circumstance. But I certainly was now to march away. 
 
 The considerations that led me to this step, I have noted in 
 the instructions which I left behind me at Oda-Boru-Ruva for 
 Lieutenant-Captain Rust. This memorandum of instructions was 
 as follows : — 
 
 " Oda-Boeu-Ruva. From the Von dee Heydt House, 
 " October 20th, 1889. 
 
 "To Lieutenant-Captain Rust. 
 
 " For four weeks I have waited here in vain for you, or 
 for any sign of life from you. This long delay of any kind of 
 
148 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 intelligence, in spite of my repeated attempts, I can account 
 for to myself in four ways : 
 
 " 1. My letters may have been lost. 
 
 " 2. Some deplorable physical accident may have happened 
 to you personally. 
 
 " 3. Your column may have been temporarily wrecked, by 
 instruc- *^^ running away of your boatmen, 
 tionsfor "4. You may have been prevented from carrying 
 
 Lieutenant- . . j i t i i ii 
 
 Captain out the commission entrusted to you by those 
 "'*■ machinations from behind from which we have 
 
 already suffered so much. 
 
 " However this may be, in the absence of all intelligence, 
 although as lately as the 8th instant I sent off Hamiri to you, 
 my honour and my duty now compel me, with the small forces 
 I have at my disposal, to undertake to push forward at once to 
 Emin Pasha. If I did otherwise, I should expose the expedition 
 to the danger of total wreck, being utterly unable to ascertain 
 what has taken place in my rear. You will yourself be able to 
 judge with what grave consideration I expose myself to this 
 new salto mortale, thus marching away, without any articles of 
 barter, for Massailand and the territories situated behind it. 
 Nevertheless I have made up my mind to grasp at the last 
 chance of success, which now lies entirely in prompt action, 
 in view of the tolerably certain prospect of failure if I remain 
 here longer ; and I start from here to-morrow, with about 
 ninety loads. 
 
 " My plan is, supposing I find a guide at Ukamba, to march 
 past the Kenia direct to Kawirondo, by the Victoria Nyanza to 
 Proposed Massala. If I do not find a guide, I must go to the 
 route of Kitui of Couut Telcki, to get from thence to the Baringo, 
 
 Dr. Peters. ' o o ' 
 
 and so onward to Massala. As I take guides from here, 
 you will learn whither I have marched ; which you can, more- 
 over, at all times ascertain on any march you may undertake. 
 From Massala I will travel along the northern shore of the 
 Nyanza, to where the Nile flows out of the lake, and there set 
 myself right as to whether the route is to be taken through 
 Uganda, or if Uganda is to be skirted to the east. My next 
 
RESOLVE ON A NEW ADVANCE. 149 
 
 chief point would be Mruli, in Unjoro, from which it requires 
 only a week to get to Emin Pasha. I reckon to Massala, not 
 taking interruptions into account, five weeks, and from thence 
 to Mruli two to three weeks. From the Kenia I shall perhaps 
 go by the so-called Thomson route, which, according to his 
 book, leads to Massala over Njemps in four to five weeks. I 
 hope, however, to find Teleki's guides at Kitui. 
 
 " I now leave behind me the following instructions for you : — 
 " Make use of the relations I have established here with 
 the Gallas. The first sultan whom I met here, Hugo, I con- 
 sidered, in consequence of his treachery, which threatened our 
 camp, as an enemy, or at any rate as a lukewarm friend, and he 
 fell, with seven Gallas, in a nocturnal fight against us. His 
 first successor, Gollo, who behaved with considerable pouoyto 
 insolence towards us, and was called to order by me towards'** 
 with some asperity at a public assembly of the people, ti^e Gaiias. 
 and threatened with war, was deposed by his subjects. He 
 must be kept in view as the so-called leader of a possible 
 war party. The present sultan, Sadeh, was appointed with 
 my sanction. He has made a treaty with me, in which he 
 acknowledges me as lord of the Gallas, cedes territory to me, 
 etc. ; in return for which I secure to him life and property, so 
 far as I come into question. He promises in the treaty espe- 
 cially to support our expedition. He has promised me by word 
 of mouth, in the presence of witnesses, to provide porters for 
 you to the Kenia. If he does not fulfil this, it is said that 
 donkeys are to be had, three days' journey from here. The 
 Wagalla are to help you to organise an expedition with 
 donkeys to the Nyanza. 
 
 " This I commission you to do, if you are ready by December 
 15th, and can follow me. But if I should march over Kitui and 
 the Baringo, I further commission you to establish jj^^^^j.^^ 
 stations in each of these places, and eventually to to be taken 
 complete those I have founded. As guards, depend- 
 able people belonging to the place itself are always in the 
 first place to be kept in view. At Massala you would hear 
 further from me. 
 
150 NEW LIGHT ON DA UK AFRICA. 
 
 " Jf you consider the organising of a donkey expedition by 
 December 15th of this year as impracticable, I request you to 
 disband your column as quickly as possible, to provide the 
 Discretion Station here with articles of barter, and to leave 
 the ueut- Hamiri behind with a few Askaris. The rest of your 
 Captain, column I request you to dispose of in Lamu or Zan- 
 zibar to the best possible advantage, for the benefit of the 
 German Emin Pasha committee. I should relieve you of your 
 responsibilities with regard to my expedition, without, however, 
 shutting you out from our undertaking. Until the result is 
 decided, I entrust you with the representation of our interests 
 first at Lamu, then in Zanzibar, until you hear further con- 
 cerning the fortunes of my column. Kindly suggest to the 
 committee, if necessary, to summon you to Germany to make 
 your report. In such case, I request you to order home Herr 
 Borchert to Germany, regard being had to my obligations made 
 under contract, and the commercial accounts being settled ; for 
 The report I have heard that his health has suffered. I request 
 to Europe, y^^ ^q ^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^f ^^^^^ instructions, as soon as 
 
 possible, by the quickest way to Europe, and likewise beg you 
 to send the accompanying packet down river as soon as 
 you can. 
 
 "With the best wishes foi- your prosperity, and for the 
 completion of your commission, 
 
 " I remain, with friendly sentiments, 
 
 " Yours faithfully, and with esteem, 
 
 " Carl Petees. 
 
 "P.S. — Let an attempt be made, moreover, to purchase 
 ivory ; and please take under your protection the station garden 
 and the plantations that are to be laid out. Signed (C. P.)" 
 
 The. decisive cast had now been made. On October 18th 
 I had the articles of barter packed and marked anew ; and on 
 the 19th my whole column was employed in pounding maize, 
 for I had ordered that each man should take with him a supply 
 of meal for twenty-five days. The steppe which lay before us 
 had, until now, completely resisted every attempt to penetrate 
 
FAREWELL TO ODA-BORU-nrVA. 
 
 151 
 
 through it. Two English expeditious before miue had been 
 wrecked. In the maize flour I hoped to hud the magic key 
 that should open to me the portals of the desert. On the I8th 
 there appeared, provided for me by the Gallas, eight The deci- 
 guides, whom, for the sake of security, I immediately cj-o^s'the 
 caused to be chained. On the afternoon of October ^^^vv^- 
 20th I once more visited the beautiful island of Oda-Boru- 
 Ruva, which was still deserted by the Gallas, and sat for the 
 last time, for a quarter of an hour, in my Yon der Heydt House, 
 the erection of which had afforded me so much pleasure, ^ly 
 frame of mind was grave, yet mingled with joyful emotion. 
 The sinking sun that day again showed me the mysterious 
 ridges of mountains in the west, which hid from me the world 
 of the Massais. My resolution was taken ; all preparations were 
 made. "We will try if we can succeed where the two „ 
 
 .... . Hopes and 
 
 English expeditious failed. Let us penetrate into the auticipa- 
 girdle of wilderness that guards the lands of the West, 
 and let us see if the magic key we hold is able to unlock for us 
 the gates of the territory of the Nile. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM ODA-BORU-RUVA. 153 
 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition was for the future to bear. 
 It was plain that if I was not in a position to go forward 
 in the Massai land, paying the usual tribute, I must Exceptional 
 expect to experience warlike opposition in that ter- ^^^^^/^^"^ 
 ritory. I did not go away from Oda-Boru-Ruva ^^peiiition- 
 with the intention of leading the expedition onward, in this 
 sense. As a last resource, I thought at that time I could 
 have still made use of the powder which I carried with me 
 for Emin Pasha, as an article of barter in these lands. I 
 also cherished the hope of meeting with Arab dealers at the 
 Baringo or the Victoria Nyanza, from whom I could perhaps 
 purchase articles of barter, paying by a cheque on Zanzibar. 
 Nevertheless, when on the morning of October 21st I quitted 
 the Oda-Boru-Ruva that had become so dear to me, it was 
 with a feeling that our expedition was now gliding 
 
 " ^ b & Xjig future 
 
 away from the tracks of the calculable into the region incaicui- 
 of the adventurous. The one thing that comforted * 
 me, under this impression, was the certain conviction, that 
 the only way to carry out the task proposed was the one upon 
 which I was that morning entering. 
 
 The night before, I had sent an order to the Gallas to 
 provide four great boats for me, to convey corn up the river. 
 As these boats had not yet appeared at six o'clock next Delays of 
 morning, I was compelled to send my column forward ^^^ Dallas, 
 towards Galamba, and to wait with a few Somali soldiers. I 
 bad received about twenty slave-women, with their children, 
 into my camp, and at the last moment I resolved to send these 
 also by boat up the Tana. Towards seven o'clock the Gallas 
 arrived with the four boats I had ordered, and I could then 
 follow my column on horseback to Galamba. How right it was 
 to have sent grain up in boats, was not fully shown till jj^^g^jity 
 a week afterwards, when I found that my people had ofprovid- 
 
 1 in^ grain. 
 
 already, in the first days, either eaten up or thrown 
 away the grain served out to them, that was to have lasted 
 them for twenty-five days. By means of these four boat-loads 
 of maize I had it once more put into my power, at Hargazo, 
 to provision my column for several days. And this was partly 
 
lo4 XEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the reason why we did not experience the fate of the English 
 expeditions, in the steppes into which we had now advanced. 
 
 The impressions of the first day's march from Oda-Boru- 
 Ruva up the Tana were for me very depressing. Though I 
 had put most of the slave-women, with their children, into the 
 boats, a few had preferred to march with their husbands. As 
 Inveterate I I'ode onward, in the rear of my expedition, I found 
 stragglers, ^j^ggg ^g^y elements lying, some here, others there, by 
 the wayside, and was repeatedly compelled to adopt measures 
 of punishment, to maintain the old order of march. At this 
 first march, I at once recognised the fact that it would not 
 be possible to caiTy on the German Emin Pasha Expedition 
 further, with the wives and children of the newly -enlisted 
 Gallas, and consequently I made my decision on the evening 
 Gaiamb °^ *^^*' ^^^' ^* Galamba. This place lies opposite the 
 point in the river where the island of Oda-Boru-Ruva 
 terminates. Wapokomo and Gallas live here together, and by 
 the latter we were welcomed in a friendly manner, immediately 
 upon my arrival. 
 
 From Galamba onward I began, so to speak, to hunt for the 
 " Kiloluma," which was marked on the maps of that day as a 
 tributary of the Tana. For this purpose I made a boat excur- 
 sion up the Tana this afternoon, whereby I ascertained that 
 here at least no Kiloluma existed ; and, by enquiries I made, 
 I conceived a suspicion that no tributary of the kind flows into 
 Supply of *^® Tana. When I returned to my camp from this 
 fish in the excursion, in the evening, I found all my people 
 employed pulling fish out of the river. Behind Oda- 
 Boru-Ruva the Tana begins to be very full of fish ; a circum- 
 stance by which my column learned to profit more and more. 
 
 This day was not fated, however, to close amid such cheer- 
 ful impressions. At seven o'clock I caused the slaves of the 
 Gallas who accompanied me to assemble for a consultation, and 
 represented to them that it would be quite impossible to carry 
 their wives and children with me into the interior of Africa. 
 They had all seen to-day, I said, how wearisome such a march 
 was, and yet to-day we had only had half or a quarter of a day's 
 
SLAVE WOMEN AND CHILDREN SENT BACK. 155 
 
 marching. We were as j'et still in countries where we could 
 journey onward in peace. But it would be certain destruction 
 to women and children, when once we should have sot „ . . 
 
 ' ~ Decision 
 
 into the territory of the Massais. T was very sorry for concerning 
 it, but I must put it to them, whether they would be- and 
 take themselves, with their families, back to the Gallas, ''^^ ^*"' 
 who were friendly to us now ; or, as an alternative, I should 
 be willing to send the latter under an escort, this very evening, 
 in some of my boats down the Tana to Ngao. At that place 
 there was a station of Germans, to whom I would write that 
 they were to give the needy people a kind welcome ; and this 
 they would certainly do, as they had come to help the black 
 people. The slaves declared that they were prepared to die, all 
 of them, with wives and children, sooner than let their families 
 fall once more into the hands of the Gallas. They good sense 
 could see plainly that they would probably lose many "ftiiemen. 
 of their people in the interior, if they went with me ; therefore 
 they accepted, with great joy, my proposal to send the women 
 and children to Ngao, until the expedition was finished. Yem- 
 bamba and another old slave should accompany them, and the 
 others would go forward with me, to return to their wives and 
 children within a year. I immediately had two large boats 
 unloaded, and placed at the disposal of the Gallas. 
 
 It was urgently necessary that they should pass by Oda- 
 Boru-Ruva that very night, because it was to be feared that by 
 daylight the Gallas would pursue the boats, and get them into 
 their possession. Accordingly, I urged an immediate departure. 
 During the next half-hour a very touching and heart-rending 
 scene was enacted. Men were taking farewell of their parting 
 little ones, who cried and wept aloud. Women packed "='''''• 
 their things into the boats, and my Somalis cursed at the whole 
 affair, which gave them so much work in the hours of night. 
 The boats rode deep in the water, when, towards nine ^^ j^^. 
 o'clock, all was ready for departure. I urged the tives,o^n^ 
 necessity of rowing quickly down the river ; and if my 
 exhortation had been attended to by Yembamba, there is no 
 doubt that, in the deep darkness that reigned around, they would 
 
156 yi-JW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 have got past Oda-Boru-Ruva unperceived. I felt quite easy 
 in mj- mind as to the late of the column, when towards eleven 
 o'clock the Galla Sultan Sadeh, and his brother Parisa, appeared 
 in a most innocent manner in my camp, to pass the night with 
 us. I naturally assumed that they had not seen the fugitives 
 making their way down the river, or else that their fear of us 
 was still sufficiently strong to protect the latter in their 
 retreat. 
 
 Concerning the fate of the party I was first enlightened 
 three days afterwards, when Yembamba rejoined us, bleeding 
 and half-starved. The boats had, it appeared, run on a sand- 
 Yembamba's bank in the dark night, and could not be floated off 
 doleful re- until towards the morning. They had then been chased 
 
 appearance 
 
 andnarra- by the Gallas, and after Yembamba had killed three of 
 the pursuers, all the fugitives had fallen once more 
 into the hands of their mortal enemies. Yembamba had 
 escaped to the right bank by swimming ; and from thence, 
 pursued by the Gallas, he had made his way back to my 
 column. 
 
 It was one of the cruel necessities to which I was exposed 
 during this expedition, that it was not permitted me to turn 
 back once more, to release those women and children from the 
 hands of the Gallas. With a heavy heart I was compelled to 
 pursue my march towards the west, where greater questions 
 were awaiting settlement. 
 
 From Galamba upwards, the Tana presents an uninterrupted 
 succession of island formations. About forty-six miles above 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva its upper course changes to its middle course. 
 Flowing onward through a rocky bed thus far, it enters the 
 sandy steppe at Hargazo, and in the varying height of the water 
 Course of new channels of streams continually are produced, and 
 the Tana, corresponding formations of islands. At intervals are 
 expanses in the form of lakes, so that the river reminds one 
 vividly of the Havel between Potsdam and Spandau. All these 
 islands, whose uniform character was first noticed by us, I 
 afterwards entered in the map under the common appellation of 
 the Von der Heydt Islands. The shores are here clothed with a 
 
THE COriiSE OF THE TAXA. 
 
 157 
 
 thick fringe of forest, which, seen from the river, appears in 
 parts like a hanging wood. The ishuids rise, dark green in 
 cohjur, from the bright snrface of the water, so that boat 
 excursions here on the Tana, of whicli I undertook xhe islands 
 several, offer unusual charms of landscape. On thi' ^"^ '^^ "^"^■• 
 left bank are still found some Wapokomo settlements, which 
 extend as far as Hameje. The right side of the river, along 
 which we marched, is already a completel}' desert steppe, un- 
 peopled b)" the wars of centuries between Gallas and Wakandja, 
 
 
 The Vox dek Heydt Islands. 
 
 who extend their predator}- raids as far as this region, aud 
 whose camping-places we had an opportunity of observing, 
 already in the first days of our march, behind fralamba. 
 
 The river dt'viates here more and more from its nortli- 
 western course to a western direction, but from Hargazo begins 
 to turn back towards the south-west. Tlie names settlements 
 entered upon the map, sucli as Gakashannjrra, Iposa, ""^ ''^'"''■■ 
 Galangogessa, Hameje, and so on, do imt signify towns, but 
 (inly ])]aces by the rivei'. I conjecture that they were once 
 (Taila settlements. The forest on the margin is here unusually 
 broad, and the openings to the river can hardly be descried, 
 
158 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 SO that my messengers whom I had sent up the stream a few 
 weeks before from Oda-Boru-Ruva had almost perished from 
 exhaustion. We had, however, three efficient Gallas as guides, 
 imder the leadership' of Parisa, the brother of Sultan Sadeh. 
 Thus, by a five days' march through the steppe, we arrived safely 
 at glorious Hameje, where, with its luxuriant islands 
 Hamejeandand lake-like expansions, surrounded by magnificent 
 Its islands, i^g^jjgijjg ^yoods, alive with all kinds of game animals 
 and fowl, the stream assumes an altogether imposing appear- 
 ance. Hameje represents a ford to the water, and forms one 
 of the broad dry arms of the stream, where tracks of wild 
 animals lead to the water. As had been often the case before, 
 in the night we heard the roaring of lions immediately in 
 front of our tents, and Herr von Tiedemann was even obliged 
 to vacate his tent in rather quick time, because one of these 
 amiable guests, moved probably by a kind of curiosity, felt 
 himself impelled to bring his head a little too near the tent. 
 Visit from Tiedemauu struck at him several times with the 
 lion. revolver, whereupon both parties took a most summary 
 leave of each other — one betaking himself into the forest, the 
 other to the camp-fires of the Somalis. The next morning 
 when we started I enjoyed the still more original spectacle of a 
 lion stretched out, in broad daylight, close by our line of march. 
 I was unfortunately on horseback, and had given my rifle to a 
 servant to carry, so that our meeting was to a certain extent 
 only a platonic one ; though the lion did not seem at all in a 
 hurry to get up, but measured me for a tolerably long time 
 with his eyes, before he slowly betook himself into the forest. 
 
 On the afternoon of October 25th I made a boating excur- 
 Excursion siou of Several hours up the Tana, still searching for 
 on the Tana. ^^g Kiloluma ; the noil-existence of which river, as far 
 as Hameje, I had already proved by the boats I sent up. This 
 day I navigated along the northern bank of the Tana, till close 
 to Hargazo, without seeing any stream running into it from the 
 north. Next morning I caused my boats to follow me to 
 Hargazo, and the boatmen corroborated the fact that there was 
 no river-mouth on the north as far as that place. 
 
a 
 
CATARACTS OF THE TAXA. 159 
 
 A bright halo encircles that day at Hameje in the memory 
 of us all. Here for the first time the mountain chains in the 
 west came clearly into view. My people revelled in the 
 enjoyment of the supplies that were brought to us „ . . 
 
 1 . - , " Eemmis- 
 
 here m the boats, and tumbled about merrily in the oences of 
 broad shallow river, after the six days' marching ^*™*''*- 
 through the scorched steppe. We all imagined we had the 
 Kenia before us, and fancied ourselves a month and a half 
 nearer to the goal of our journey than we were in reality. 
 In the most cheerful of spirits we marched next morning upon 
 Hargazo. 
 
 The surface of the country here for the first time begins to 
 lose the character of a steppe, and to assume a more undulat- 
 ing form. The character of the bush flora becomes more 
 luxuriant. In cool valleys a fresher wealth of grass Eiojj^ggg 
 and a richer store of flowers appear. Many-coloured of the 
 butterflies hover above the glittering array of blossoms, ^' 
 
 and the granitic ground gives indication that we are very neai' 
 the mountains. At Hargazo, where we arrived at eleven in 
 the morning, the Tana again spreads out in a lake-like form ; 
 and here it seemed to be at last, the fork of the river that we 
 had been seeking so long. The Tana here falls from its upper 
 into its middle course, in a series of rapids and a cataract of 
 about 20 to 22 feet in height. To this fall I at once betook 
 myself, by boat, with my servant Rukua and a few 
 Wapokomo. " Kiloluma ! " cried the Wapokomo when of the 
 
 Tana 
 
 they saw it. To the left of the fall a broad arm bends 
 away in a south-west direction. Towards the north-west the 
 Kiloluma falls down. There it was at last, as it seemed ! 
 Full of joyful emotion, I had myself rowed close under the fall, 
 whose refreshing spray I enjoyed to the utmost. I climbed up 
 the rock on the left, from which it poured down, and thus 
 ascertained its height with tolerable accuracy. In honour of 
 the President of the German Emin Pasha committee, Hofinann 
 Minister of State von Hofmann, I named it " Hofmann ^^^^^^ 
 Falls," and then I immediately returned down river to the 
 camp, to impart my discovery to Herr von Tiedemann, and to 
 
160 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 note it down at once. On that morning I did not yet know 
 that " Kiloluma " is merely the Ukamba word for a rushing 
 stream or waterfall, and that the whole Upper Tana is known 
 by this name among the Wakamba. 
 
 That the fork of the river I had seen in the morning had 
 
 nothing to do with a second river coming from the north, but 
 
 was simply a dividing of the Tana itself into two arms, I was 
 
 able to verify as early as the afternoon of October 26th. 
 
 "Rta.ti ftTl PR 
 
 of the On that afternoon I determined to follow up my dis- 
 ^*'^°" covery of the morning, and therefore directed Herr von 
 Tiedemann to proceed with two boats up the left arm of the 
 river, while I myself, with a company of people, followed the 
 course of the stream on the same side by land. Something 
 more than a mile above the place where the river separates 
 into branches below the fall, I came upon the boats, which had 
 stuck fast in the rapids of the southern arm. To my astonish- 
 ment I could perceive, from the high river bank, that these 
 The rapids, rapids in the southern arm rush down somewhat above 
 a branching of the stream towards the north, so that we had 
 manifestly an island formation before us. Could the upper 
 arm of the river perhaps be identical with the current that I 
 had seen from below in the morning, and which throws itself 
 into the Hofmann Falls ? This trace must be followed up. 
 
 Accordingly, I had a boat brought over to me, — which was 
 done with great difficulty, — embarked upon it with Herr von 
 Tiedemann, a Somali, and two Wapokomo, and then had it 
 taken into the northern arm of the river. Along this we drove 
 down for some distance, and then went on shore to the north, 
 to get a general survey of the surrounding country. On the 
 Tiede- proposal of Herr von Tiedemann we ascended a hill to 
 mann's Hiu. the north of the Tana, which I have called, after him, 
 Tiedemann Hill. From this point we had the view we wanted. 
 There, to the west, in front of the setting sun, rose an impor- 
 tant chain of mountains, losing itself in unlimited distance 
 towards the north. Those were the mountains which we had 
 already seen, under peculiarly favourable conditions of light, 
 from Oda-Boru-Ruva, — the chain which here met our view, 
 
THE VARIOUS FOUNTAIN CHAINS. 161 
 
 and which, following the old maps, Ave had always considered as 
 connected at least with the Kenia mountain system. Especially 
 magnificent rose, to the north-west of where we stood, a moun- 
 tain peak, whose summit had something of the form of a round 
 half-overturned garden tahle. Behind the first chain, peak 
 after peak reared its head. "We stood, strongly inter- 
 
 j. 1 •, ■• . n . , . , Mountain 
 
 ested, opposite an entire region of mountains, which chains of 
 the eye of no white man had yet beheld. In the *''*^'''''" 
 glowing evening sky the outlines of the mountains stood forth 
 with especially picturesque distinctness. It was the first time 
 the German Emin Pasha Expedition stood in view of a magni- 
 ficent formation of land ; and mindful of the powerful The "Em- 
 bond which, here in the far-distant land, united us two ^[juam n 
 Germans the more closely with our German home. Mountains." 
 I christened these mountains the " Emperor William II. Moun- 
 tains," and called the most prominent peak, towering before us, 
 the " Hohenzollern Peak." 
 
 The sun sank in the west, and, willingly or unwillingly, we 
 were obliged to tear ourselves from the sight before us, for 
 fear of losing oar way to the boat and the camp, in the rapidly- 
 approaching darkness. With some difficulty we succeeded in 
 getting back to the boat ; and now, in the grey twilight, we 
 drove down the current of the northern Tana into the rapids, 
 that rolled more and more ^Yildly. The little boat flew hissing 
 through the foam of the rushing river. The people An adven- 
 had to be continually baling out the water that poured boat"^ 
 in over the gunwales to keep the boat from sinking. ''°y^s^- 
 At times there was a danger of its being shattered on a pointed 
 rock ; sometimes of its capsizing in a hissing whirlpool. It was 
 a nerve-bracing passage, lasting about half an hour, when 
 suddenly we heard the roaring of the cataract in front of us. 
 At first our boatmen had launched with reluctance and fear 
 into the foaming rapids ; but gradually they had gained cour- 
 age, probably imagining that we possessed a charm against 
 capsizing, and now they were for boldly rowing down Danger to 
 the Hofmann Fall itself, which is from 20 to 24 feet *^" '"'^*- 
 high. With the greatest difficulty we managed to bring the 
 
 11 
 
162 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 boat up, at the last moment, on the right bank, where it was 
 drawn ashore, and carried down to a point below the falls. We 
 were, in truth, below the Hofmann Fall that I had discovered 
 that morning ; and thus the fact was confirmed, that in this 
 " Kiloluma " there was no question of a tributary from the 
 north, but simply of a fork of the river ; and that consequently 
 the land in the south is merely an island, which I have named 
 Hofmann Island. I was able still further to establish this 
 GeograpM- when, ou our passage back to the camp, we again passed 
 cai results, ^]^g forked poiut to the south-west that I had seen in 
 the morning. Thus on Octbber 26th, 1889, a very noticeable 
 negative result was gained for the geography of the Upper 
 Tana ; and in consequence we returned in a very jubilant frame 
 of mind into the camp, where on the same evening I wrote a 
 report of the morning's and afternoon's observations for trans- 
 mission to the German Emin Pasha committee at home. 
 
 My Galla guides were desirous of returning to their country 
 that very evening, according to the terms of their ,agreement, 
 The GaUa ^lade in Oda-Boru-Ruva. I ordered two of them, how- 
 guides. ever, to accompany me further up the river, until I 
 should succeed in procuring fresh guides. I sent one of the 
 Gallas, with a few Wapokomo, during the night, to their people, 
 to satisfy the latter concerning the fate of their fellow-countrymen 
 who were with us. Thus with fresh courage, on October 27th, 
 we resumed our wandering towards the unknown west. 
 
 As I was entirely uninstructed in the geography of these 
 countries, I determined to make an attempt to get my boats 
 xrapfs con- farther up the Tana. Krapf had, in his time, 
 concerning expressed his opinion, from Ukamba Kitui, that the 
 the Tana. Xaua might be navigable down to its mouth. I 
 resolved, in summary fashion, to established the correctness 
 or error of Krapf's conjecture. The very first day brought the 
 proof that his hypothesis was utterly untenable ; which is not 
 at all surprising, when the fact is taken into account that the 
 level of the land at Hargazo is about 1,000 feet above that of 
 the sea, and that after the first day's march of about nine miles 
 ■we had already reached a level of 1,500 feet. In consequence 
 
NATURE OF THE UPPER TANA COUNTRY, 163 
 
 of this scale of ascent from Hargazo, which is uninterruptedly 
 maintained up to the source of the Tana, the stream Nature of 
 from this point presents a series of cataracts and "^ '^°'^^^- 
 rapids, which in several instances exhibit themselves on a 
 magnificent scale. The descent from this part is through a 
 series of terraces, and these terraces slope generally in an 
 abrupt form towards the east. To the traveller coming from 
 the east, a terrace ridge of this kind appears, from the dis- 
 tance, as a sharply-defined mountain ridge. After ascending it, 
 he finds himself in a flat steppe, like that of the lower and 
 middle Tana, and sees towering on the horizon a new mountain 
 range, which afterwards, in its turn, proves to be the ridge of 
 a terrace. 
 
 Thus it goes on uninterruptedly as far as Kikuyu and the 
 Leikipeia plateau, where we have before us, at an elevation of 
 7,000 feet, the culmination of this grand elevated plateau forma- 
 tion, which on the other side slightly declines again towards the 
 Victoria Nyanza. This general swelling upward of the _, 
 
 i.ii6 ^r6&>ii 
 
 great mass of land surface evidently shows a peculiar elevated 
 
 plateau 
 
 formation, the centre of which is the volcanic hearth 
 of the Baringo territory, and on which the conical peaks of 
 the Kenia, the Subugula Poron, the Tchibcharagnani, and the 
 Elgon, all similar in character, are superimposed. These four, 
 in tolerably regular declivities, surround Lake Baringo, which 
 is manifestly nothing more than an extinct crater. The great 
 mass of this elevated plateau is divided in the midst by a 
 tremendous rift, in which, among others, are situated y^j^^jjij. 
 Lake Nairwasha and Lake Baringo, besides a series of nature of 
 smaller lakes. I shall have to return to this peculiar 
 formation. It will suffice here to remark that the ascent con- 
 tinues uninterruptedly from Hargazo, and that, accordingly, 
 from this place the Tana takes the form of a Kiloluma, or uoisy 
 river, and therefore there can be no question about its being 
 tinnavigable. 
 
 Our camping-ground on October 27th was at a place called 
 by the Gallas Jibije. Here the line of hills of the Emperor 
 William's chain crosses the Tana, and they appear as very 
 
104 
 
 iVSTF LIGHT ON DABK AFRICA. 
 
 extraordinary rocky iViniiatioDs. One of these peaks, 2,000 feet 
 hkh, I ascended in the afternoon with Herr von 'I'iede- 
 
 Jibije and ^ ' xi j- ii • *I 
 
 themoun- mann ; and we had once more the lull vievv over the 
 *^''''^''^'- Emperor William II. Mountains; and in the north-east 
 we ajjain saw tlie line ol' the Galla nnjuntains displayed. 
 
 My people had not been able to bring the boats up to 
 Jibije ; and if, on that evening, I attributed the non-arrival of 
 those vessels to want of energy in my followers, I was able on 
 
 The " Devil's Field.' 
 
 the following day to convince myself, by the witness of my 
 own eyes, of the complete impossibility of navigating 
 
 1. ll6 1. a>llS> 
 
 not navi 
 srable. 
 
 the Tana. For on this day the stream poured itself 
 along over rough grey boulders, which reminded me 
 vividly of some parts below the Brocken, and which I was 
 inclined to insert hi my maj) as " Devil's Field." The river here 
 merges into a series of raging torrents. All is lost in a grey 
 foam, and there is nothing like a regular stream. But directly 
 we have ascended the terrace, M'e have suddenly before us once 
 
MURDOI AND THE WANDOROBBO. 165 
 
 more the quiet Tana river, standing out darkly in the shadow 
 of the forest trees. From this point the Tana receives a 
 number of small tributar}^ streams coming from the north, from 
 the mountains. Along the stream, growing higher with each 
 day's journey, rises a chain of mountains, forming, perhaps, the 
 southern slope of the Emperor William Mountains, and which 
 I have named Bennigsen Chain. 
 
 To the south of the Tana we here arrive in a land which 
 till then was not marked on the maps, — Murdoi. About 
 fourteen miles beyond Hargazo this little country begins ; I 
 have not been able to determine its extension towards the south. 
 Here the Massai tribe of the Wandorobbo ranges with 
 
 Tile Wan- 
 
 its herds through the steppe, which, so far as I know, dorotijo 
 here alone rejoices in independence of the real Massais. 
 Between Wakamba and Gallas they roam over the country with 
 their great herds of oxen, sheep, goats, and asses, exhausting 
 ■one pasturage after another. Like the Somalis below Oda- 
 Boru-Ruva, they likewise were compelled in the year 1889, 
 through the drought in the back districts, to keep, with their 
 herds, near the Tana ; — a piece of great good fortune for the 
 -German Emin Pasha Expedition. For some distance „ 
 
 J^ Traces of 
 
 beyond Hargazo we had still come upon traces of Pigott's 
 Pigott's expedition. But suddenly these traces of *^^^ 
 ■encampment had ceased, and we had been able to ascertain that 
 the expedition had turned oflf towards the south. It had been 
 compelled to this by want of provisions. This fate we should 
 scarcely have experienced, as we still had some stores in hand, 
 and I should in no case have marched upon Mombas, but under 
 all circumstances should have tried to work my way through 
 to Ukamba Momoni, from thence to Ukamba Kitui, and Projected 
 so to the Baringo. Still the situation already began to '^°"*®- 
 be very embarrassing, as my people now only carried with them 
 a portion of the provisions that had been given them. Conse- 
 quently I felt a most lively interest in the footsteps which we 
 discerned for the first time on October 28th. 
 
 On the following day, when, to ascertain the way, I was 
 marching with the Gallas and a few Somalis in front of the 
 
166 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 expedition, we suddenly saw female footsteps of the preceding^ 
 Footsteps day, which led to a river ford. I now at once resolved 
 of women, jq make an end of the uncertainty I felt, through the 
 lack of all information concerning the countries in front of us. 
 If women had come to the river the day before, their tribe must 
 be in the immediate neighbourhood, for it would hardly have 
 allowed its most valuable possession, which was represented by 
 the women, to wander to any distance. Accordingly, it might be 
 assumed that the tribe, of whatever race it might form a part,, 
 to which these female footsteps belonged, must dwell in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of the river ford. This could also b& 
 conjectured from the many foot tracks of sheep and oxen which 
 covered the whole ford. Now these tribes used to drive their 
 herds to the water at aoon. It was now eleven o'clock. I deter- 
 waiting at mined, consequently, to let Herr von Tiedemann and the 
 the ford, column pass by, and to commission them to choose a 
 suitable camping -place, but myself to remain in ambush, with 
 a few soldiers and able-bodied Mangemas, around the ford, to 
 establish relations in this manner with the natives. My people 
 hid themselves in the thicket, and I seated myself, well hidden, 
 on a block of stone in the river ford itself. We had hardly been 
 there half an hour, after the departure and marching past of the 
 expedition, when suddenly the lively chattering of girls was 
 heard from the south. There were eleven girls, more or less 
 young, coming towards the Tana with water-pitchers. Suddenly 
 they were challenged, and great was their astonishment when they 
 saw me, an apparition such as they had never seen, rising out 
 of the bed of the river. With the help of the Gallas I succeeded 
 in ascertaining that they belonged to the Wandorobbo tribe, 
 ca ture of Strangely enough, they looked upon me with far more 
 Wandorobbo astonishment and curiosity than fear, and made nO' 
 sort of resistance when I made them understand that 
 they must follow me into my camp. That is the right of war 
 in these lands ; and the women know that, in surprises of this 
 kind, they run no peril of their lives. 
 
 I informed them that I should let them go immediately, if 
 their tribe, which for some days had kept timidly aloof from 
 
A BRUSH WITH WAKAMBA WARRIORS. 167 
 
 US, would consent to communicate with me, for the sale 
 of food and the supplying of guides. After ahout Embassy 
 an hour's march I came upon our camp, and at once *" ti^s 
 sent away two of the girls with presents, to carry robbo."' 
 my proposals of peace to the Wandorobbo. 
 
 While they were away, fate decreed that the want of guides, 
 at least, should be supplied in a different manner. Suddenly 
 three new figures appeared in my camp — ^three young men of 
 lofty stature, completely naked, with only a piece of stuff 
 wound round the neck and hanging on the back, and each man 
 with a sort of travelling bag bound round his forehead with a 
 string. I requested them to draw near, which they wakamba 
 readily did. But so soon as they saw my Gallas, ■warriors, 
 they jumped up suddenly with long leaps, and wanted 
 to take to flight. I caused my Somalis to prevent them 
 from doing this, and had the three secured, for safety. They 
 were Wakamba warriors, from the Mumoni mountains, and 
 had gone out on a foraging expedition after female slaves. 
 They knew the lands before us very accurately, and I informed 
 them, in all friendship, that they were to have the kindness 
 to show us the way to Ukamba, where I would dismiss them 
 with presents. They had wanted to go slave-catching, and 
 were not at all agreeably surprised at having fallen into the 
 toils themselves. I was still pacifyins them on this „ . 
 
 ^ •' ° Ominous 
 
 subject, when suddenly war cries and the rattle of sounds of 
 musketry were heard from the direction where a por- 
 tion of my Somalis had encamped with the camels. The 
 Wandorobbo, instead of entering mto friendly negotiations with 
 me, had preferred at once to attack my camp ; but they were 
 at once driven back with volleys from our repeating rifles, 
 and chased beyond view of our camps. Only one of them 
 was left dead on the field in this attempt. 
 
 I now sent away to the tribe two more of the women we had 
 brought home, with the intimation, that if they con- Dr. Peters' 
 tinned such foolish proceedings, I should make war with thrwan- 
 them on my part, and they would very soon have to dorobbo. 
 repent their rashness. If, however, they would live in friendship 
 
1G8 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 \\\{\i me, I would at once send back the rest of their girls 
 to them. But I must insist, as I had guides from elsewhere, 
 that they should at least bring me a few sheep and goats for 
 sale. My column had been so excited by the occurrences 
 of the morning, that repeatedly, both by day and night, 
 the men allowed themselves to be startled by false alarms, 
 and rushed to entirely unrealised encounters with imaginary 
 enemies. At one time came the report that one of my porters 
 Adverse had been killed at the river by the Massais ; at another, 
 reports, q^q gf ^j^g j^en was firing blindly into the thicket, 
 because an enemy had been descried there. All this made 
 a very disagreeable impression, and, in consequence, I again 
 had a fence erected around the camp. 
 
 Towards three o'clock in the afternoon appeared the 
 ambassadors of the Wandorobbo, two wonderful apparitions, 
 to us who came from the east. They were entirely nude, with 
 their whole bodies besmeared with red clay, their hair artfully 
 The Wan- arranged in ringlets round the head, the quiver full 
 ambassa- of poisoned arrows, and the bow over their shoulders, 
 ^'"^^- and the lance and Massai shield in their hands. The 
 feeling involuntarily arose, that we had now penetrated among 
 entirely new tribes, and into completely strange regions. While 
 among the Gallas there had always been a certain maintaining 
 of relations with the coast such relations were here entirely 
 absent, and there was not the slightest sign that these people 
 had ever seen Suaheli or Arabs, much less white men. The 
 Wandorobbo ambassadors brought out their demands in a loud. 
 Insolence ™perious toue, SO that I had to admonish them several 
 of their times to moderate their voices, as this shouting was not 
 and de- the way to my heart. They demanded that their girls 
 mands. should be given up ; I, on the other hand, declared, 
 I must first have my sheep ; and when they protested that 
 they had not the power to give me them, I ordered them, if 
 that were so, to come again the following morning, and to 
 Fortifying bring the sultan of the tribe with them. Not until then 
 the camp, ^guld I negotiate with them for the delivering up of 
 the women. I made use of the evening hours further to fortify 
 

 
 XeGuTIATION \VITH Tlli; ^\'A^'DMl;OBB^,) 
 
HUNTING FOR A BREAKFAST. 169 
 
 the camp, and in the night I had good watch kept. But 
 ■with the exception of a few false alarm shots, we remained 
 undisturbed. 
 
 I now wrote a last report for Europe, in which I related the 
 occurrences until the evening of this day, and especially my 
 discoveries on the Tana. I purposed next morning to send the 
 Gallas and the Wapokomo I had brought from Oda-Boru-Euva 
 back to their homes, and to get my packet to Europe 
 in this way, through the intervention of the second for 
 column, which might be coming up, or perhaps by the "'^°'^' 
 post messenger whom I expected with news from the coast. 
 
 They departed on the morning of October 30th, already 
 before sunrise, as the Gallas feared to be seen and killed by 
 the Wandorobbo or the Wakambas. As I was afterwards 
 informed by Herr Borchert, Parisa arrived home safely parisa's 
 at Oda-Boru-Ruva with his people, but did not deliver ^^si^ct. 
 any of the reports for Europe that had been sent by him. Early 
 in the morning I was gratified by the agreeable intelligence that 
 there was no meat for our breakfast, and that our private ser- 
 vants had had nothing to eat since yesterday. A very prospect of 
 charming piece of news, if we consider the complete fa™!"^- 
 isolation of such a position. It is certainly much more easy 
 to criticise, after the fact, the manner in which any one has 
 extricated himself from such a desperate situation, than to 
 manage extrication at the place itself. 
 
 I threw my gun over my shoulder and, that I might at 
 least do something for us, went forth from the camp, with my 
 servant Rukua, into the steppe to shoot. Two thin pigeons 
 were the entire result of my foray, from which I a useless 
 returned half dead with hunger two hours afterwards. *'''^°^- 
 The pigeons were as quickly forgotten as eaten. The Wando- 
 robbo question began, indeed, to become a burning one. Then, 
 towards eleven o'clock, the AVandorobbo elders at length ap- 
 peared before the camp, with the five sheep I had demanded. 
 After we had demonstrated and sworn, by spitting at each other 
 several times, that our intentions towards each other were good, 
 we entered upon the negotiation for exchanging the women 
 
170 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 for the sheep. The Wandorobbo must have thought us veiy 
 bad men of business to give them back their women for the five 
 sheep. In these countries the price of a woman gene- 
 robbo nego- rally rises to fifty sheep; and according to African 
 bad bar- ideas 01 polity, our right oi possession was mde- 
 ^*'"' feasible after the occurrences of the day before. Two 
 sheep were quickly slaughtered ; one of them was given to the 
 people, and one was consigned to the cauldrons for us and the 
 Somalis, and within an hour it had been consumed. 
 
 I now caused a start to be made, to get, as soon as possible, 
 to Ukamba Mumoni, which, according to the statements of the 
 Wakamba, lay only two or three days' journey before us. The 
 way lay through rugged bush and over some stony and ever- 
 rising ground. On the way I succeeded in killing a guinea- 
 Tbe order ^'o^f^, which I gave Nogola to carry. The march wag 
 of march, exceedingly fatiguing ; the camels, especially, could 
 only advance with difficulty, and every now and then they had 
 to be unloaded to climb up the heights. At four o'clock, as I 
 was marching at the head of the column, I discovered a ford 
 in the river, and determined to encamp there. I sent Nogola 
 to the chief column, to Herr von Tiedemann, to show him the 
 place, to which I myself proceeded with a few Somalis to 
 commence the work of clearing away, before pitching the camp. 
 Five o'clock came, the sun began to sink, and not a human 
 Anxiety for being appeared. I sent two Somalis back, and towards 
 the column, half-past five had the pleasure of seeing at least my 
 camels clambering down the steep declivity leading to the ford. 
 But where were the porters, and where was Herr von Tiede- 
 mann ? Towards six o'clock we succeeded in ascertaining that 
 the column had marched round the ford, and must be already 
 at a considerable distance to the west of us. The chief loads 
 belonging to my tent were with it— my camp bed and my 
 blankets. Whether I liked it or not, .1 had to make up my 
 mind to do without those articles for that night. But the prin- 
 A disagree- cipal task was to put myself into communication with 
 able nigbt. ^j^g ^j^^gf columu that same evening. I therefore sent 
 some reliable people behind the main body of the column, and. 
 
THE FALL OF NOGOLA. 171 
 
 according to my custom, set fire to the bush forest on a hill to 
 the westward of us. At ten o'clock I had the satisfaction of 
 hearing a few dropping shots in the distance, and soon after- 
 wards several of the porters appeared with my private luggage, 
 which Herr von Tiedemann had sent to me for the night. Now 
 at least each of us knew where the other was encamped, so that 
 there was no difficulty about our meeting the next morning, as 
 I had directed Herr von Tiedemann to defer his departure until 
 I joined him. 
 
 Thus, as early as five o'clock next morning, we broke up 
 towards the south-west, and at about half-past seven I met Herr 
 von Tiedemann, who with his column was waiting for uogoia's 
 me, in readiness to march. Nogola, who was to blame misbehavi- 
 
 our and 
 
 for the mishap, had meanwhile been enjoying himself punish- 
 over my guinea-fowl. Perhaps he had only led the ™*" ' 
 column round the ford at which I was encamped, to accom- 
 plish this in all quietness of mind. But the matter had a bad 
 ending for him. I administered an emetic to make him give up 
 the stolen goods as far as practicable, and, in addition, caused 
 him to receive twenty-five lashes, which were duly counted out 
 to him in the presence of all, as a warning and a lesson to the 
 whole community. The impudent fellow was, in addition, put 
 in chains for the rest of the day. From that time his position 
 in the caravan sank rapidly ; and he did not recover it to the 
 day of his death, which happened on the 22nd of the following 
 December. 
 
 On October 31st I pitched my camp in a glorious wood by 
 the Tana river. On that day I had repeatedly met Wandorobbos 
 on the road, and I invited them to visit me, and to bring wandorobbo 
 me sheep for sale. In spite of all that had happened, i'lsoience. 
 the whole set of them were, and remained, brazen and impudent. 
 When, on the march, I took hold of one of these people with my 
 crooked stick by one of the earholes that hung down to his 
 shoulders, because he would not come on, he tried, in return, to 
 seize me by the ears too. But as we sat at table the chief of 
 the Wandorobbo appeared in my camp. This was reported to 
 me in my tent. I rose from the dinner table, and went out to 
 
172 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 him to ask him where the sheep were, that I had ordered. He 
 replied that the sheep would come on the morroM' or the day 
 Visit from after. Now this, it will he allowed, is very cold com- 
 the Wan- jf-^j.^ when one has a hungry column to provide for, 
 chief, and has oneself hardly meat enough left for one day. 
 Consequently, I explained to the Sultan that this delay was not 
 according to my wish, as I proposed to march forward the next 
 day, and that he must remain in the camp until his trihe fur- 
 nished the sheep. Hereupon on a sudden he raised his loud 
 . war-howl, like the cry of the jackal ; and in a moment 
 
 Attack with ^ u ' 
 
 poisoned the poisoued arrows of the Wandorobbo came flying 
 arrows. ^^^^ ^^^, camp from every direction. One of them struck 
 into my trousers, and was within an ace of killing me. I at once 
 had the Sultan knocked down, and fettered ; then took him 
 by the ears, and shoved him in front of me, as a kind of shield, 
 towards the shooting Wand orobbos. I forbade my people to fire 
 on these people, as I wished to have peace with them. 
 
 As they did not like, of course, to shoot at their Sultan, 
 they were obliged also to pause ; and by signs, with the help of 
 a few broken words of their language, I contrived to announce 
 A peace to the Sultau, and through him to his people, that if 
 patched up. |jy ^j^g evening they brought me five sheep and four 
 donkeys, I would deliver up their Sultan to them, and give 
 them stuifs for clothes. This treaty was sealed before the people 
 by my spitting several times at the Sultan, while he spat at me ; 
 and the Wandorobbos withdrew to bring the ransom for their 
 chief, who remained with me. Quite friendly relations were 
 established in the course of the afternoon between myself and 
 him ; and when, in the evening, no donkeys, indeed, but 
 eight sheep made their appearance, I presented the chief and 
 several of his principal men with red clothing material, and 
 dismissed them, unharmed, to their people. 
 
 Next morning I expected to see the Wandorobbo once more, 
 Expiora- ^ccordiug to agreement made on the previous evening, 
 tions along to buy more meat from them. Not to let the time 
 
 the Tana. -i i • • i 
 
 until their arrival pass by unused, I went with Hussein 
 Fara and Rukua along the upward course of the Tana, to find 
 
FALLING INTO A TRAP. 173- 
 
 out if there were a way for the camels, in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the river, h}^ which I might escape the tiring 
 devious road through the steppe, as I should have to come 
 back to the river in the evening. After a reconnaissance of 
 two or three hours, we ascertained, to our discomfiture, that 
 there existed no such way along the river, as the rocks here 
 began to offer a steep descent towards the rushing Tana. I 
 returned to the camp, and was just passing through the dry 
 bed of an affluent from the south, which poured its waters into 
 the Tana during the rainy season — we were in the middle of this 
 watercourse — when suddenly nearly a hundred figures of Wando- 
 robbo sprang up before me out of the thicket, with their Threatened 
 arrows ready to shoot. I was going to withdraw from thl^^an^ 
 these disagreeable neighbours into the bush on the other dorobbo. 
 side of the river bed, when Wandorobbo rose up there also, and 
 suddenly the side of the river towards the Tana was likewise 
 lined with them. I had managed to fall into a trap, and these 
 gentlemen might now have taken their revenge for yesterday. 
 I did not, however, let them perceive my embarrassment, but 
 laughed in friendly fashion, and beckoned with my hand to ask 
 them to wait a moment, while with a face of apparent amuse- 
 ment I approached a tree on the upper side of the dry river 
 course. So soon as I had reached this, I pulled out my Atemporis- 
 rifle, which was in its case, and made ready to fire, at ^^^ p"^^''^- 
 the same time continually waving tufts of grass in the air as 
 a sign of peace, this being apparently everywhere the accepted 
 international African form. I now made the Wandorobbo 
 understand that my servant Rukua should hasten into my camp 
 to bring presents for them; and that in return I expected a 
 present of sheep from them. 
 
 Rukua accordingly hurried into camp with the order to 
 bring the presents, and twelve of my soldiers besides. As the 
 .poison of the Wandorobbo arrows, which they prepare from 
 the bark of a tree, is immediately fatal, my position during the 
 ensuing three-quarters of an hour was not the pleasantest. 
 The Wandorobbo continually tried, though perhaps not with 
 hostile intentions, to get nearer to me ; and I as continually 
 
174 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 motioned them to stay where they were until the presents ar- 
 rived. At length my soldiers appeared, and the position 
 arrival of of affairs was altered. I placed my soldiers in a half- 
 circle behind me, with their repeaters prepared ; then I 
 put down my own rifle, and made the Sultan of the Wandorobbo, 
 my friend of yesterday, understand that he also should lay aside 
 Solemn his ^ow and arrows, and give me a personal meeting 
 agreement, jjj ^jjg ^^^[[(jie of the dry river bed. After we had spat 
 three times at each other, there was no further danger of an 
 attack at this place ; and we now arranged that the Wan- 
 dorobbo should bring ten sheep to a cleared space by the river 
 above my camp ; in return for which, I undertook for them 
 that they should be allowed, without molestation from us, to 
 drive their flocks to water at the ford, which I could command 
 from my camp. I also promised them some fine clothing stuffs 
 as presents. We shook hands upon it ; on which occasion 
 Eatifioa- i^^ither I nor the Sultan omitted, as a sign of the 
 tion by honesty of our arrangements, each to spit into his own 
 hand, which is, indeed, the recognised form of greeting 
 among friends in all the Massai tribes. We spat once more in 
 each other's face, and thereupon parted good friends, each going 
 his own way. 
 
 On arriving at the camp, I at once ordered the camels, with 
 Herr von Tiedemann, round the bush forest into the steppe. I 
 would only wait, with a part of my people, for the ten sheep 
 promised by the Wandorobbo, and then quickly follow the 
 camels, which marched but slowly. Accordingly, I betook 
 myself, with ten or twelve men, to the clearing by the river, 
 wando- where the Wandorobbo also appeared immediately 
 Ind eva^j'*^°afterwards. But they had not yet brought the sheep, 
 sions. First, we must eat liver together, they said, as a sign 
 that our nations, the Germans at home and the Wandorobbo in 
 Murdoi, were at peace, and then they would give me the ten 
 TJnjus- sheep. The sun began to burn hot ; and, as the Wan- 
 encroach- dorobbo Commenced taking all kinds of liberties,— 
 ments. demanding that I should show them my breast, and 
 pull off my boots, with various other jests of the kind, — I 
 
DEALINGS WITH THE WANDOROBBO. 175 
 
 became considerably angry, because I had no inclination to 
 creep through among these tribes, in the clowning manner of 
 Thomson. Accordingly, I forbade their bold proceedings in a 
 sufficiently rough tone, and sent them away with the injunction 
 to bring the sheep at once, or I should no longer recognise our 
 ■compact of the morning. 
 
 My humour became none the more rosy when I suddenly 
 saw the camels come marching back from the side of the river. 
 Herr von Tiedemann had not found any road. It was plain, 
 accordingly, that I must remain to-day in the same 
 
 1 ITT f -I r. An enforced 
 
 place ; and i only transterred my camp from the forest encamp- 
 into the clearing where I was, that I might be nearer ^^'^^' 
 to watch the development of events that would no doubt take 
 place at the ford. The tents were pitched, and I sat down with 
 Herr von Tiedemann to our scanty meal, when suddenly the 
 Somalis came rushing, with very disturbed looks, into the tent, 
 and told us the Wandorobbo were driving an immense Excited 
 number of cattle to the river. The Somalis always p°^gp^^^'g ^^ 
 looked disturbed, when they saw cattle in other men's plunder, 
 hands ; but here especially, because the Godsend was so well 
 within their reach, and they were in a hungry condition. In 
 mere absence of mind five of them had brought twenty kids 
 into my camp, which, as they averred, they had "found" by 
 the river. Inasmuch as such a manner of keeping treaties does, 
 not generally square with our German ideas, I stood up from 
 table, and myself brought the twenty kids to the Wandorobbo up 
 the river, where these people were certainly driving herd after 
 herd to the water, and away again. As a proof of my friendly 
 intentions, I had only brought two men with me, and for myself 
 I had my six-shooting revolver in my pocket. Now I ,^ ^^^^ ^^ 
 had the clothes stuffs brought, to redeem my promise city" to be 
 with regard to the presents; but I demanded, once more, 
 that the Wandorobbo should deliver to me the promised ten sheep. 
 With discontented faces they at last brought up five at their 
 Sultan's orders. One of these was at once slaughtered, Renewed 
 the liver was taken out, and without much ceremony p^*"^- 
 laid in the fire, whereupon each of us received a piece of it to 
 
176 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 eat. xVud herewith the treaty of peace was sealed between the 
 German nation, as such, and the \Yandorobbo. 
 
 I now once more demanded my ten sheep, and became 
 somewhat suspicious when I noticed that the warriors, or 
 Ehnoran, of the Wandorobbo began to snigger, and that some 
 figures posted themselves near me, on the left, in the bush. 
 The Wandorobbo refused my pieces of stuff, and I said I would 
 send to my camp, and have a load of iron wire brought, which 
 Measures of they would perhaps prefer. I sent Hussein Fara into 
 aglinst"'" the camp with a note to Herr von Tiedemann, in which 
 treachery. J requested him to come, with thirty men, to our place 
 of council, and ordered the Somalis immediately to start for 
 the dry ford, which they were to occupy some distance up, and, 
 at a trumpet signal from me, to drive as many head of cattle 
 as they could get together into our camp ; and directly they 
 had secured a herd they were to fire a shot, that I might know 
 what was going on. 
 
 Herd after herd belonging to the Wandorobbo went away 
 from the river ; when the last had quitted the water-side, the 
 people suddenly let three of the five sheep there go, so that only 
 one very skinny specimen remained for me. All at once an 
 Tokens of arrow flew past my ear. I coolly rose, and called out 
 hostility. J.Q them, " Take care of yourselves, you dogs ! " and 
 quietly had my things packed up, and ordered them to be 
 carried back into the camp. Hussein Fara soon reappeared 
 with the intelligence that my orders were being executed, and 
 Herr von Tiedemann presently came marching along with thirty 
 men. Now I suddenly caused the trumpet to be blown, and 
 quietly fell back upon my camp. When my people came hurry- 
 ing up, the Wandorobbo disappeared with one accord into the 
 Herr bush. I requested Herr von Tiedemann to follow them 
 m^nn'^s'^^' through the clearing and the dry river bed, which 
 position, he was to occupy M'ith his thirty men. Then, on my 
 side, I went back quietly into the camp, when suddenly the 
 shot I was so anxiously awaiting rang out from the bush. I 
 immediately ordered the people who had remained in camp to 
 get up a fence for the cattle that Heaven was going to send us. 
 
PLENTY OF PROVISIONS. 177 
 
 then sat down in my tent to a cup of tea and cognac, and took 
 up " Mommsen." I had been sitting there for about twenty 
 minutes, when there came a trampling like an approaching 
 cavalry attack, sheep and goats jumping along merrily in a 
 crowd, and a donkey also had "strayed" over to us — soTheSomaiis 
 the Somalis reported, who came running behind them u^jr^y*^,, 
 in a state of enthusiastic excitement. The sheep were ''*"'^' 
 now driven to the water, and surrounded by my people, till the 
 fence was finished. After about ten minutes came also Herr 
 von Tiedemann, who was to have taken the Wandorobbo, if 
 necessary, between two fires ; he had not got sight of one 
 Wandorobbo. He was naturally highly delighted when he saw 
 the sheep. 
 
 Now we settled down to a mighty slaughtering and feasting. 
 To every five men a sheep was given, and to every two men a 
 kid. Joy, jovial dancing, and merry songs were the order of 
 the day. We had two hundred and fifty sheep in our ^vaiuaWe 
 possession, and with this there was an end, once and'"''^- 
 for all, of famine in the German Emin Pasha Expedition. The 
 pleasurable part for me, in the occurrences of this day, was 
 that, in the first place, no human blood had been spilt, and, 
 secondly, that I felt myself, morally, entirely in the right in 
 the measures I had put in action. 
 
 In the night I had the camp well watched, and now and 
 then I ordered rockets to be thrown up over the bushes. But 
 these measures of precaution proved to be superfluous. The 
 Wandorobbo, who, as I heard from Wakamba, were under 
 belief that the fiend himself had personally, and with a great 
 following, appeared in their land and among them, — to 
 which conclusion they were brought especially by the contem- 
 plation of my broad-brimmed flapped hat, and also probably 
 of the black shining spectacles in which I was accustomed to 
 appear at the conferences— vanished in the darkness of night, 
 going down stream with their herds. I never set eyes upon 
 them afterwards. 
 
 Next morning I wished to cross the Tana at this place, as 
 Herr von Tiedemann shared the opinion with the Somalis, that 
 
 12 
 
178 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 outside the bush forest there was no road up the stream, on 
 the right bank of the Tana. For that reason I caused my 
 people to go through the river, which was very broad here, in 
 The Tana ; the early morning, to ascertain if it was fordable for 
 tion'lT^' us at this spot. Strangely enough, from the earliest 
 lords. morning this November 2nd, a continuous rising of 
 the Tana occurred, so that already in the afternoon the whole 
 sandy cleared space by the brink, where the negotiations of the 
 former day had taken place, was under water, and in the night 
 the Avater penetrated into our camp. My people lost all relish 
 for working in the Tana, on the sudden approach of a row of 
 suspicious dark objects, which were soon identified as so many 
 crocodiles. I was able, indeed, to scare these creatures away 
 from the surface with bullets from my rifle, but hardly altogether 
 to banish them from the vicinity. 
 
 So from nine o'clock I devoted myself, with entire zeal, to 
 constructing a raft, for which I made my people bring fifty 
 trunks of trees, as uniform in size as possible. Towards twelve 
 o'clock the raft was finished ; but when I made the attempt, 
 Attem ^^^^ quite alone, to trust myself to the currents with 
 cross with it, the heavy wood sank beneath the surface. The 
 
 a raft . 
 
 trial resulted in complete failure. Now there was 
 nothing for it, but to devote the remainder of the day to finding 
 a way for my caravan on our side of the Tana. I sent the 
 best of my people out on this business, and they succeeded 
 in establishing the possibility of a march for the next day. 
 On the morning of November 3rd we therefore started with 
 beat of drum, always up hill, up hill, through bush and forest. 
 But still we made progress, and, what was most fortunate, our 
 flock of sheep and goats got forward with us cheerily enough. 
 Marching ^^^ *^^^^ herds are accustomed to nomadic wander- 
 with the ings, and must therefore not be judged entirely by a 
 
 European standard. From this time, during the whole 
 further course of the expedition, I carried herds along with me. 
 Thus the sordid care for the body's food and nourishment was 
 removed. We could look forward with pleasure to the march, 
 the arrival in camp, and dinner, instead of contemplating with 
 
CHEERFUL TIMES OF RECREATION. 179 
 
 a kind of horror this arrival, and the ugly scenes that would be 
 associated with it. Herewith the advance assumed a much 
 more pleasant character. The heavy wrong the Englishmen 
 had done us in Lamu, by the confiscation of our articles of 
 barter, had in some degree been remedied by Providence, and I 
 began to get rid, more and more, of the doubt as to the definite 
 accomplishment of my task. 
 
 On this day I encamped by a beautiful cataract of the 
 Tana, just beneath the fall, near a ford of the river, so that, 
 if we wished, we could enjoy the refreshing rain of spray in 
 front of our tent. On the other side of the Tana the Bennigsen 
 chain day by day exhibited more imposing forms, cheerful 
 Lovely bush forest surrounded my camping-place, in oFthe* 
 which a cheerful busy life appeared, for the people ""^"it^y- 
 were now in good humour, in consequence of winning the 
 herds. On this day I again wrote reports for Germany, in 
 which I described our adventures with the Wandorobbo. 
 
 I was busy with this task, when all at once the Mangema 
 Barakka, surrounded by his followers, came rushing into my 
 tent with loud howls. My people were accustomed regularly 
 to fill up the afternoon hours with fishing. Barakka also had 
 drawn forth with the hook from the cooling flood a ^ , , 
 
 ^ Barakka's 
 
 great, a very great, inhabitant of the Tana. But the formidable 
 fish, taking the joke in evil part, had bitten Barakka 
 soundly in the finger. \Yhen a black man sees blood he thinks 
 it his duty to howl, and the people were very much astonished 
 at my not taking the affair tragically ; and it was certainly not 
 tragic, for a little chloride of iron suflSced to stop the bleeding. 
 In the night a heavy storm drew up, the rolling thunder 
 mingling harmoniously with the sound of the waterfall — the 
 first practical token that the short rainy season was at hand. 
 The landscape became more and more magnificent, g^.^ 
 the onward sweep of the Tana more turbulent, ever indications 
 
 ^ . ' , of the 
 
 more majestic the forms of the mountains and the rainy 
 primeval forest that surrounded us. The Tana here =^^^'"'- 
 rushes downward through short stretches in mighty cataracts 
 to the depths. Terrace after terrace were we obliged to climb. 
 
180 X!-:]]' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Every day wo mounted more than three hundred feet. We were 
 surrounded by all the mysterious glamour of the wilderness. 
 We were out of Murdoi, and no trace of a human being was 
 visible in the bush forest we were traversing. There M^ere 
 certainly paths, but they were the clean tracks the hippopo- 
 tamus makes, and which always led back to the river. Here 
 the rhinoceros breaks himself a road through the bushes, 
 and ni2:ht after nisht the lion roars and the hyena 
 
 In the 1 .11 1 
 
 pathless howls arouiid our camp. And the south-west mon- 
 soon, rushing through the tree-tops, shouted the chorus 
 to these voices of the animal world, and the Tana growled in 
 unison, in such measure that we often felt the rocks on its 
 banks trembling under our feet. A mighty concert it 
 animal was in its coucord of sounds ; the world could hardly 
 ing om. Y\g^xQ found a more magnificent voice. In memory 
 these noble and stately sounds still echo through the soul. 
 
 On November 4th, as I was examining a place near the 
 Tana, with respect to its accessibleness, I was within a hair's 
 breadth of stumbling over a lion, who, however, decamped with 
 The lion the utmost Speed. This time, again, I had not my 
 Mppopo- ^'^fl^ ^^th ^®' ^^'^ could therefore get no shot at him. 
 tamus. This region on the Tana swarms with thousands, one 
 might almost say with hundreds of thousands of hippopotami. 
 They sometimes lay so crowded together in the stream that it 
 appeared possible to walk across to the other side of the river 
 on their heads. But any inclination to attempt such a feat 
 vanished in view of the fact that their good friends the crocodiles 
 were present in equally large numbers, often lying peaceably near 
 them on a sandbank, or asleep on a slab of rock in the river. 
 The}' often became a mark for my trusty double-barrelled rifle, 
 but I never succeeded in killing one of these crocodiles, though 
 I killed several hippopotami. 
 
 On November 6th, at eight in the morning, we reached the 
 waterfall Kiloluma, where the road from Mombas leads through 
 Ukamba Mumoni over the Tana to Mbe, and further east, past 
 the Kenia, to Lorian.* This place it was that led Krapf to 
 
 * I need scarcely observe that under tlie term " caravan road," a road 
 
GRANDEUR OF THE LANDSCAPE. 181 
 
 assert that Wakamba had told Mm they had crossed the river 
 Kiloluma to go to Mbe ; to Avhich I attribute the whole erro- 
 neous theory of the tributary river Kiloluma falling j,^^^^^^^^ 
 into the Tana. Already half an hour before Ave reached theory 
 the Kiloluma we could feel the rocks trembling beneath KiMuma 
 us ; and in truth, standing above the falls and look- "''^''' 
 ing down into the yawning gulf that the tumbling mass of 
 waters has opened there, is like gazing into the pit of hell. 
 Yet this waterfall is not by any means the greatest on the 
 Tana ; we were destined to see very different ones. As in 
 most cases, it appears in the form of several cataracts, one 
 over another, of which the loftiest may be about eighty feet 
 high. But the mass of waters in the Tana is so colossal that 
 these falls represent a force which I am unable to estimate 
 according to " horse -power," but its capacity must The great 
 be enormous. By this roaring cataract we spent the cataract, 
 whole of November 6th. Unfortunately, the bridge on the way 
 to Mbe, of which we still saw some traces, had been swept 
 away by the rising waters of the Tana. We pushed some of the 
 beams down into the whirlpool. It was interesting to observe 
 how the beam at first disappeared altogether, and then, after a 
 long interval, reappeared in the whirlpool on the opposite bank. 
 It must have been five minutes before it came to the surface. 
 I visited the principal whirlpool with Herr von Tiedemann and 
 Hussein Fara, in the afternoon, towards sunset. Hussein Fara 
 was of opinion that it was just like in the Somaliland, Hussein 
 an assertion he was in the habit of making when compari- 
 anything struck him as grand. His exact meaning I ^°^^- 
 could not quite understand, as in the Somali country there are 
 neither such rivers, nor, in all probability, any cataracts. He 
 made the same observations at a later period, when he came to 
 visit me in Berlin, and lived at the Kaiserhof Hotel. He said 
 that was quite like in Somaliland ! 
 
 according to European notions is not to be understood. It is a little track, 
 running through the bushes, on which, every couple of years or so, a Mombas 
 caravan or a company of native Wakamba takes its way. The " road " does 
 not much contribute to enliven the landscape. 
 
182 NE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Next day we made a long march, and had throughout 
 the afternoon to endure a pelting fall of rain, which set in 
 regularly, and was repeated almost daily for the next month 
 and a half. On this day, we first came again upon 
 of inhabited traces of men. My people thought they descried in the 
 districts. ^|jg^a^j^(.y "shambas" (plantations), and the pleasant 
 expectation was strengthened in the afternoon by the appear- 
 ance of two Wakamba, who said that on the morrow we 
 should reach inhabited districts. 
 
 According to my custom, I kept these visitors in the camp 
 
 through the night. But as I did not like, on the following 
 
 morning, to lead them back to their countrymen bound 
 
 Securing ° p i 
 
 the with cords, they got away, with one of the ^Yakamba 
 
 a am a. J ^^^ brought with me from Murdoi, as soon as I set 
 my column in motion. On November 7tli I felt slightly indis- 
 posed, which occasioned me to take strong doses of ipecacuanha, 
 and in a few hours I had quite recovered. On this day also the 
 Somali, Daud Wais, fell sick with dysentery, from which he 
 suffered till the end of the expedition. The land we approached 
 on the following morning was, to my astonishment, not 
 Ukamba, as I was obliged to assume from the maps, but the 
 The land of land of Dsagga, which stretches out, in lovely ranges 
 Dsagga. of noble outline, over the Tana. The land is richly 
 cultivated, and makes a most picturesque appearance, with 
 its little villages, built in the Swiss style, and surrounded 
 with strong circumvallations. It is situated in front of the 
 Bennigsen Mountains, and to a certain extent corresponds 
 with Kikuyu, which lies in front of the plateau, only that iu 
 Kikuyu the mountain chains are higher, and the air is in 
 consequence still more pure. 
 
 The Wadsagga, again, are Bantu, and closely related to the 
 Wakamba and the Wakikuyu, as also to the people of Mbe, with 
 The Wad- whom they posscss a common language. According 
 sagga trihe. tQ enquiries made by Krapf, the Wakamba are said 
 formerly to have had their dwellings on the Kilima-Ndsharo, 
 and to have been driven thence towards the north by the 
 Massais. Perhaps this has to do with the similarity of sound 
 
THE WADf^AGGA TRIBES. 
 
 183 
 
 in the names Dsagga and Dshagga at the Kilima-Ndsliaro 
 The foremost tribes, in this emigration, made their way across 
 the Tana forward into a region which by those w])o dwelt 
 behind it was called Mbere, Mbele, or Mbe (Iront). This is the 
 laud that stretches from Dsagga along the left bank of the 
 Tana, and belongs to tribes of quite the same race as Ukamba. 
 The Wadsasrra, like the "Wakamba, have some- „. , , 
 
 '~'~ . High Dreeding 
 
 thing of high blood in their demeanour. They and haughtiness 
 
 f\f I'll A ^JV Jl fl ^ fl P^ P* R. 
 
 love to deck themselves in chivalrous st_yle, to 
 ornament themselves with feathers, and to wear on their feet l)its 
 of iron which clink like spurs at every step. 
 Their women are voluptuous, cheer- 
 ful looking creatures, plentifully 
 adorned with beads and rings. I'hey 
 werefond of promenading saucily with 
 their adorers in front of our encanij)- 
 ment, to have their beauty admired. 
 
 Into this country also, no know- 
 ledge of white men had yet pene- 
 trated. I believe they did not 
 know even Arabs or Wangwana. 
 They took our guns for cudgels, 
 and when they looked at our 
 leet, clad in high boots, they 
 began to laugh aloud ; for they 
 thought we had thrust our feet 
 into donkeys' legs that we 
 might marcli the better, or that we ourselves had donkeys 
 leet. On the declivities of the charmingly-situated laud long 
 ranges of ]ilantations ai)pear, between which great herds and 
 flocks, oxen, sheep, and goats are pasturing in peaceiul a primitive 
 smmy groups. The whole scene, with the Tana tra- '=°'"'^'^'^' y- 
 versing it, makes an idyllic impression; and when, on November 
 Sth, we encountered these people for the first time, we thouglit 
 we had come upon a " peaceful shei)herd tribe." 
 
 This impression was very quickly altered when I entered 
 into commercial relations with them anent the purchase of 
 
 WADSAGQA. 
 
184 
 
 \i:\r LKriir o.v jiauk afiuca. 
 
 orain. T asked tliem to I'urnish nie ^Yith a oreat bulk of grain 
 
 nt (UK-o, ami in return I was ready to make a proportionate 
 
 in'esent. liut as all monarchical unity was wanting here, 
 
 Egotistical ^ i • 'i i t i • 
 
 ideas of it was not possible to eiitorce this deniand. iLacn lu- 
 
 ''''"^'' divi(hial lirouglit a little pot or a little l)nii(lle ol'mtama, 
 
 for winch he asked his own utterly exorbitant price. As 1 was, 
 
 aboye eyeiything, in urgent want of strong food for my riding 
 
 hoise and the camels, I at last made short 
 
 \^ork of it, by taking possession of 
 
 he grain that had been brought, and 
 
 paying an entirely a(k'<|nate price for 
 
 it in cloth. At this there arose a 
 
 great outcry, so that, to ayoid a 
 
 l)reach of tht' peace, I had the 
 
 whole comjtaiiy turned out of the 
 
 camp. For all that, our relations 
 
 coutmued to be of the most friendly 
 
 kind. TheWadsagga, of their own 
 
 accord, proyided a, guide, who was 
 
 to lead us as far as Mbe, so tliat I 
 
 could now dismiss, with rich gifts, 
 
 Mkamba, whii Avas still with me ; 
 
 antl on the morning of Noyember 
 
 !)th we went forth, amid friendly 
 
 greetings from all sides, through 
 
 the beautiful land ; — now past yil- 
 
 lages from which men and Wfjnien 
 
 rushed forth to gaze at ns ; then on well-kept woodland paths, 
 
 upliill and downhill, nntil towards noi.m ayc came into a second 
 
 district of the Dsasiiia land. Before we crossed the 
 
 Marcn ■- ' . 
 
 through the Iron tit'r, hundreds of the Wadsagga, who had now 
 coun ly. gj.Q^yjj (phte confidential, took leaye of us, and we 
 marched into the second district, under the impression that we 
 should be able to trayerse the whole country as friends, and 
 thus might reach ^Ibe in the most agreeable manner. Beyond 
 Mbe, we were told, there was a ford of the riyer, which I 
 desiy'ned to cross. 
 
 WADSAC4GA. 
 
THREATENING OF A STORM. 185 
 
 When I entered the second district of Dsagga, b)^ way of a 
 high hill that sloped gradually down, I saw on the other side of 
 the shore a great mountain, which ]-emained in sight The xrupp 
 as a landmark for us for days afterwards. The Ben- ^o^^tain. 
 nigsen chain, which had run, as far as this mountain, in a south- 
 south-west du-ection, here deviated a little towards the west, and 
 ran south-west, so that the mountain we had seen stands at the 
 angle of the range. I decided to name it the Krupp Mountain, 
 and encamped opposite it, at one in the afternoon, by a ford 
 of the Tana. Presently numerous Wadsagga came in ; their 
 insolence of manner, in communicating with us, at once , , 
 
 ° Insolence 
 
 impressed me disagreeably. I asked them to bring of the 
 food for us to purchase, within an hour ; but immedi- * ^^^^^' 
 ately learned, to my complete astonishment, that one of my 
 porters, Ajabajir, who was somewhat unwell, and consequently 
 had been marching in the rear of the column, had disappeared, 
 having probably been captured by the Wadsagga. To get at 
 the truth of this I immediately sent back some soldiers, who 
 presently returned bringing me a confirmation of the news. 
 
 We were just sitting at breakfast, when it was suddenly 
 announced that the gentlemen Wadsagga had set about driving 
 off my five donkeys. They had indeed been put to , 
 
 •I . . Aggression 
 
 flight by prompt action on the part of the Somalis ; and re- 
 but the intention of paying no respect t'O our rights of 
 property was apparent enough. In this condition of affairs 1 
 determined to take vigorous measures, and replied by giving 
 my men the order to drive as many head of cattle from the 
 surrounding pastures into my camp, as they could get posses- 
 sion of without a breach of the peace. The command was 
 promptly obeyed, and by half-past four we had six hundred 
 sheep and about sixty oxen in the enclosure. The herdsmen 
 had been driven away by a few shots fired in the air. 
 
 Towards sunset one of the patriarchal elders of the district 
 came to the camp, begging from afar for peace. As it ^ ^^^^_ 
 seemed hardly possible to keep the someAvhat unruly seeking 
 oxen with us through the night, I sent the greater number 
 of them back to the elder, with the remark, "He should have 
 
186 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 peace." If he wanted to treat, he must come to me next morn- 
 ing. In the morning, accordingl)', the old and really venerable- 
 looking man made his appearance, with a few younger warriors. 
 I took him to task, and asked how the Wadsagga had dared to 
 carry off one of my people and to try to drive away my donkeys. 
 I told him, before I would negotiate further with him he must 
 A categoric deliver up my man, and that I further wished the 
 demand. ^Yadsagga to bring corn for my beasts of burden. I 
 had already, yesterday, ordered them to do this, but not a grain 
 had been voluntarily brought in. The elder thereupon departed, 
 but returned about one o'clock in the day, when I was just re- 
 turning from an excursion in the neighbourhood ; he brought 
 with him nothing but my porter's gun. Accompanying him 
 was a personage, who, for weeks afterwards, was one of the 
 principal figures in my expedition. This was Marongo, a tall 
 lanky Mkamba, who had come from Ukamba to Dsagga to buy 
 beer, with a little bundle of things, which was still lying in the 
 . . hands of the Wadsagga, and a mouth that stretched 
 
 An acquisi- . tt- p • j i 
 
 tiou for the almost Irom ear to ear. His lace was characterised by 
 a half crafty, half good-natured expression about the 
 eyes, and his arms swung to and fro by his sides, extending 
 down almost to his knees. The man spoke a little Kiswahali, 
 and consequently at once excited in me a desire to secure him 
 for my expedition, so that the wearisome exchange of broken 
 words and pantomimic systems of conversation might cease. 
 
 I gave the elder one of my jackets with red and white 
 squares, which I put on him myself. To my inquiry con- 
 Dr.Peters's earning Ajabajir, he replied, he thought he could 
 complaint, i^iform me that the man was no longer with him ; 
 he had fled to the Wakamba, but here was his rifle. I 
 informed the elder that I did not believe his assertion, and 
 once more complained that no grain had yet come. I said 
 I had wished for peace with the M^adsagga, but they seemed 
 to prefer war. If that were so, they could also have war. 
 Then we sat down to table, while the Sultan, with Marongo 
 and the Wadsagga, remained sitting outside the tent. Then I 
 went and sat down with them again, whereupon the peripettia 
 
STRONG MEASURES SUCCESSFUL. 187 
 
 of the whole incident came quicklj-. Suddenly Morango 
 hegan to talk,, in the elder's name, of sheep that I was to 
 deliver up. "What sheep?" I asked. "Well, the sheep 
 that had been driven into my camp yesterday evening." 
 Thereupon I replied, that he had seized Ajabajir yesterday, 
 adding, " And to-day, when I want to have him back, . , . 
 
 •^ 'A plam 
 
 you say that he has run away to the A^ akamba. Now statement 
 I will tell you, that is exactly the state of things ° *" ^' 
 with your sheep. I am afraid that your sheep will also run 
 away to Wakamba with me. If you bring Ajabajir back, 
 there can be a council held to decide what is to be done with 
 the sheep that are in my hands. If you don't do this, the 
 matter will remain as it is. We can even then part in 
 peace if you wish it. If you do not wish it, you may do 
 what you can." All at once the Wadsagga sprang up, seized 
 their spears, and hurried out of the camp. 
 
 As Marongo was also about to follow them, I asked him, 
 through my Somalis, to stay, as I should want him for the 
 further negotiations. After some resistance, he yielded „ 
 
 o ' J Marongo 
 
 to necessity with a good grace, only asking that his submits to 
 
 llis fSit^G 
 
 bundle should be obtained for him from the Wadsagga. 
 I now dismissed the Wadsagga guides, as Marongo knew the 
 way to Mbe, and at once sent off five men to the Wadsagga 
 to have his bundle brought into my camp. I had no fore- 
 boding of evil ; and as the sun was shining hotly down, I 
 seated myself in my tent to pass my Sunday afternoon in 
 quiet. All at once my people rushed into the tent, and an- 
 nounced to me that the Wadsagga were attacking our herds, 
 and already advancing upon the camp from the other sides. 
 At the same moment I also heard firing from the direction 
 of the herds, and saw my embassy of five men running in 
 headlong flight from the opposite side, towards the camp. 
 With a force of more than a thousand men, the Wad- ^^^^^^.^ ^ 
 sagga attacked our camp on every side. I entrusted the wad- 
 Herr von Tiedemann with the command on the upper ^*^^*' 
 side of the river, and threw myself, with a few people, upon 
 the enemies who came crowding up from the lower side. 
 
188 XE\r LiailT ox DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Suddenly the \\'adsagga came to understand what sort of cudgels 
 our guns were. A row of them came tumbling head over heels 
 clown the hill ; the others stopped bewildered ; but as man after 
 man was picked off, they turned suddenly back, and took to 
 flight wildly. (3n the other side, also, Herr von Tiedemann 
 succeeded in making an end of the affair, and in half an hour 
 all was decided. Behind a hill in the south-west, the Wadsagga 
 collected like ants whose nest has been destroyed. The sun 
 was already low in the west, and I considered it more prudent 
 to conclude the whole affair by daylight, than to run the risk 
 of being roused up once more at night by an attack. 
 
 Therefore I took some twenty of my people, leaving the 
 command of the camp to Herr von Tiedemann, and determined 
 to attack the hill on which the Wadsagga then were. Below 
 the camp, a deep rain gully or stream ran into the Tana. Along 
 this we noiselessly crept, as it went in the direction of the 
 hill aforesaid. But we must have been observed ; for as we 
 crept up the hill, at the back, it was suddenly deserted. I 
 now turned towards the neighbouring villages of the Wadsagga, 
 to give them a serious lesson before the night came on. At 
 our approach the villages, too, were speedily deserted. I 
 Reprisals Ordered everything that could be of value to us to 
 on the foe. ^^g quickly taken out, and had six of these villages 
 set on fire, one after another. It appeared to me necessary to 
 make the people understand cest la guerre, because the safety 
 of our further march depended, in the last instance, entirely 
 upon this. When the sun went down, the glare of the flames 
 spread over the wide hilly region, plainly discernible from 
 the camp, where our column was naturally watching these 
 occurrences with the keenest interest. 
 
 Heavily laden, I returned with my band to the camp, from 
 which the other, people came forth singing and dancing to 
 meet me. I was able that night to feed my beasts of burden, 
 The"Kii- and also to distribute some grain to the column, 
 sharo'' ^^w the state of mind arose more and more in my 
 feeling. camp which I was accustomed to call the " Kupanda- 
 Sharo " feeling. Kupanda-Sharo, that is to say, climber of 
 
HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS. 189 
 
 mountains, was the name which I had borne from the beginning 
 of my expedition, and which is now becoming more and more 
 known among the native tribes. M_v people had composed 
 special songs upon this name, and these thej- were accustomed 
 to sing upon such occasions as the present, especially the 
 Wanjamwesi girls. I remember how, on that very evening, 
 one of these girls, as she husked the corn, sang a song of 
 which the burden always was : " Others have nothing to eat ; 
 Kupanda-Sharo gives us to eat." 
 
 From this time I could count more and more on the com- 
 pletely reliable spirit in the expedition, at least among the 
 great majority. This evening I prepared a spectacle for the 
 people, by having the last load of petroleum poured ^ grand 
 over a dried mimosa bush, and setting it on fire. ^°^^^^- 
 On the morning of this day one of the porters' wives had 
 given birth to a child, and therefore I had consented to 
 encamp for a day opposite Krupp Mountain. But next morn- 
 ing before sunrise we were on our onward path towards the 
 south-west for Ukamba, which I hoped to reach the same 
 day. Of the AVadsagga at first nothing was to be seen. But 
 soon, first singly, then in hundreds, they popped up on the 
 hills to right and left of us, following our track like jackals, 
 to see if they could not find an opportunity to attack us. 
 During the whole marching day there was skirmishing, and 
 the rattle of the guns never ceased. Unfortunately the Wad- 
 sagga succeeded in capturing the above-mentioned porter's wife, 
 who could not keep up with us, and carried her otf with her 
 child. A bloody retribution was exacted ; but a loss Rgt^ibu- 
 of this kind, to a hostile tribe, is always very painful ^^^^^^^l 
 to the feelings of a leader. Whatever villages of the 
 \Yadsagga could be reached during the march were set on 
 fire. At twelve o'clock, the procession was moving through 
 a narrow pass. I thought the Wadsagga had at length gone 
 back, and therefore galloped my horse from the rear to the 
 head of the column, to find out a suitable place for our camp. 
 But just in front of this defile the Wadsagga were lying in 
 ambush, and were within a hair's breadth of succeeding in 
 
190 ^'EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 driving off our herd of cattle. The attempt only failed through 
 the cleverness of the Somalis in driving the beasts. The 
 herd was made to rush at a wild gallop through the narrow 
 pass, which Herr von Tiedemann meanwhile covered with a 
 few Somalis. 
 
 I found a very suitable camping-place in a deserted planta- 
 tion, into which I threw myself with my caravan. As the 
 Wadsagga immediately occupied all the heights round about, 
 I caused a circuit of one of these heights to be undertaken 
 by the Somalis, under the leadership of Hussein. So soon as 
 the volleys from our repeating rifles flew among the "Wadsagga 
 from the rear, causing some of them who were perched 
 in the in the trees to descend involuntarily to the earth with 
 ^^^^^' unwonted celerity, they abandoned the field in the most 
 violent haste, and were seen no more. Only on the hill towards 
 the west, a company of Wadsagga remained standing for the 
 rest of the day. After dinner I myself went towards this 
 post ; but the people there sent to ask me why we were always 
 shooting at them, inasmuch as they had no war against us. 
 " Why are you perched up there ? " I called up to them. 
 " Because," they cried, " we are at war with the Wakamba, 
 who are on the other side of the hill, and we are defending 
 ourselves against them." "Oh, indeed," I called up, "then I 
 wish you a pleasant afternoon ! " 
 
 With the Wadsagga on the other side of the river peace was 
 also concluded at midday. They declared, likewise, that they 
 Peace and ^^^ nothing at all to do with the Wadsagga tribe with 
 fair whom We were at war. They would be our friends, 
 
 and would show us the way to Ukamba next morning. 
 It was a marvellously beautiful afternoon that we passed in this 
 plantation. Just like the mountains of the Danube between 
 Passau and Vienna, the western continuation of the Bennigsen 
 chain here stretches along the stream. 
 
 On the opposite side, up the stream, mountains extended to 
 the Tana, filling me with a certain disquietude, because they 
 threatened to put new difficulties in the way of our advance. 
 Nevertheless, I still hoped that I should succeed in finding 
 
J.\ THK ill'lIUNI J[(jr.\TAIXs. 
 
A TOILSOME AND DISHEARTENING MARCH. 191 
 
 a way between these mountains and the river; and, for 
 the rest, I depended upon the knowledge which Marongo 
 declared he possessed of the roads in this region. 
 These were the Mumoni Mountains, and we marched through 
 into them on November 12th. At first there certainly u'n'^e™' 
 was a way between them and the river ; but presently ^°^^- 
 the rocks approached so closely and so steeply to the Tana, that 
 I was compelled, whether I liked it or no, to leave the river, and 
 betake myself to the valleys that slanted into the mountains. 
 As I liked to sleep by the river, on account of the water, I 
 turned back towards it after a march of about three hours ; and 
 now began about as difficult and uncomfortable a climbing 
 match as can well be imagined. The mountains then assumed 
 a very steep and precipitous character. They were covered, 
 throughout, with thicket, like a primeval forest, and thorny 
 bushes, which made marching very difficult and painful. It 
 must be remembered that we had here to march not only with 
 porters, but with a column of camels that still numbered seven, 
 and with many hundred sheep. Sometimes we had to climb 
 up a steep declivity, sometimes to scramble down an abrupt 
 descent, and continually we were cutting our way with the axe. 
 
 Considerably tired, I fixed my camp, at about three o'clock, 
 in a less precipitous place, and gradually gathered the whole 
 column about me. My people were in anything but a cheerful 
 humour, and their spirits did not greatly rise, even when I 
 gave them, in addition to their regular daily fare, a number of 
 sheep as an extra present. I saw well enough that an -^^^^-^^^^ ^^. 
 advance in this direction was impossible. Throughout vance im- 
 the whole afternoon I accordingly caused various little 
 excursions to be organised, to try in what direction a better way 
 could be found for us ; and I learned, before evening, from the 
 Somali Musa and my servant Rukua, that by going away in the 
 first instance entirely from the river, in a south-east direction, 
 we should get to an open country. 
 
 The Tana here turns more and more completely towards the 
 south, so that to all the difficulties of our advance was added 
 the uncomfortable feeling, that at the end of each marching day 
 
192 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of this kind we should be farther from, instead of nearer to, 
 our real goal, the Equatorial Province. Next morning we 
 Change of marched awa)^ in a south-easterly direction, therefore 
 direction, exactly opposite to that in which Emin Pasha was to 
 be sought. However, by this means we got out of the primeval 
 forest, and into an open region, though it was pouring with 
 rain. Then I gradually inclined towards the south, and then 
 towards the south-west, always keeping the margin of the wood 
 at my right hand. 
 
 Towards ten o'clock we descried some people at a distance, 
 and Marongo informed me that these were Wakamba Mumoni. 
 Marongo, who now was literally of vital importance to us, was 
 usually led in advance of the column, with a cord round his 
 ^ neck, under the uuard of a Somali. He now begged 
 
 Marongo ' ~ . 
 
 securely to be allowed to conceal the cord from his countrymen. 
 ^^^ ^ ' Accordingly, a handsome cravat was made for him out 
 of a great piece of red stuff, which was only fastened at the 
 back, in the most discreet manner possible, to the cord covered 
 by the material. When this toilet had been completed, 
 Marongo beckoned his countrymen to approach, and informed 
 them of my wish to be shown a way through the mountains. 
 We enforced the request by a present of stuff, and the Wakamba 
 at once put themselves in motion in advance of us. 
 
 They were desirous of showing me a place by the river, 
 where the native caravans were accustomed to cross the water 
 to get to Mbe. I had already given them their advance pay, 
 but at every hundred paces the fellows would sit down and 
 demand a fresh payment before they went further. I had made 
 up my mind to practise patience in this country to the utmost 
 possible extent, to get through peacefully ; but practically I 
 could not help seeing how impossible it is to get on with 
 Severity natures like these negroes without recourse to cor- 
 necessary ^^^^.^^ punishment. But for this resource, a man is 
 negroes, entirely pow-erless against such breaches of contract 
 and hindrances of every kind ; and for these people themselves it 
 is much better, if they are made clearly to understand that 
 lying, thieving, and cheating are not exactly the things that 
 
THE BEST POLICY FOR AFRICA. 193 
 
 ought to be in this world, but that human societ)' rests upon 
 a certain reciprocity of responsibility and service. Beyond all 
 question, that is the manner in which the way will be best and 
 most safely prepared for the opening up of Africa. To make 
 oneself the object of insolence of the natives is the very M'ay to 
 confirm the blacks in the lowest qualities of their characters, 
 and especially to degrade our race in their eyes. The practice 
 of undertaking such responsibilities, and then leaving them 
 unfulfilled, under all manner of pretexts, is always founded upon 
 a certain under-estimation of the other party. It is quite a 
 mistaken motto of travellers, that in Africa one must learn 
 patience, and that no one who has not patience should travel 
 there. It certainly is far more consonant with our interests 
 and with civilisation if we take it as our motto, on the 
 other hand, that we will impart some of our character- 
 istics to the natives of Africa, instead of simply truckling to 
 their faults. The great principle that makes itself j^^^.^^ ^^ ^^^ 
 felt through the universe, even in inorganic nature, is shown and 
 
 . . ... enforced 
 
 the principle of unlimited justice. But this principle 
 is quite as much disregarded when the black man is allowed 
 to overreach the white man, as in the opposite case. During 
 the whole time of my leading the expedition I was always 
 conscious of acting upon this principle. 
 
 In the middle of the day, between one and two o'clock, we 
 at length came upon a high hill, with a very steep declivity 
 towards the Tana, down which the column was led with much 
 trouble, to the ford designated by the Wakamba. Here we found 
 cooking stones and other signs of the camping of caravans 
 and expeditions. At this place the Wakamba entered into 
 commercial relations with the people of Mbe. But at that 
 time the Tana was so high that the carrying across of the 
 porters with their loads was not to be thought of. Abortive 
 much less, even, the transport of the cattle. On ^^^^Xe*"" 
 that day four attempts were made to find a suitable ^a^i*- 
 place, but they all failed. The Wakamba told us that expedi- 
 tions often had to wait here for many months till the river had 
 subsided. That is just the way of the black men. Instead of 
 
 13 
 
194 KEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 buckling all together to the work of making an ordinary boat, 
 
 they will wait for half a year until the river has gone clown. I 
 
 was now compelled, willingly or unwillingly, to continue my 
 
 march on the right bank. 
 
 In laboriousness and in lack of result our next march was 
 
 quite equal to that of the previous day. It was always up hill 
 
 and down hill, through primeval underwood, where only the axe 
 
 could make something like a path. It was, in truth, very 
 
 depressing, especially when the ultimate object of the journey 
 
 „ ^^ was considered. Whither would the Tana, thus run- 
 Doubts . . ' 
 
 as to the ning continually southward, ultimately lead us ? There 
 was something ridiculous in the idea of journeying in 
 a direction just opposite to the goal of the journey, merely 
 because it was impossible to cross a particular river. It recalled 
 to the mind certain campaigns of the Turks south of the 
 Danube. I began to consider, more and more seriously, 
 whether it would be well to devote a few days to throwing a 
 bridge across the river. 
 
 On November 14th I encamped on a small clearing in the 
 forest, and here we were very agreeably surprised, in the even- 
 ing, by the visit of about a hundred Wakamba to our camp. If 
 any one could do it, they were the people to help us out of the 
 disagreeable position in which the expedition then was. More- 
 over, they declared their readiness to do this, and asserted that 
 we should soon come to the end of the mountains. On the 
 Advice of ^^"^ic6 of these Wakamba, I marched entirely away 
 
 kaLbl*" ^'^°™' ^^^ ^'^^^^' ^^^^ *° *^® ^^^*' *^^^ ^° *^^ south- 
 east, afterwards to the south, and gradually towards 
 the south-west and west. On that day we absolutely made a 
 circular movement, and though marching over more than seven 
 miles of surface, we were only some 1,100 yards from our old 
 camping-place when we halted in the afternoon. I was once 
 more led by the Wakamba to a place where the Tana was wide, 
 and where, according to their assertion, the people of Mbe crossed 
 the river in the dry season. Here I determined to make an 
 attempt to get across, or, as we were pleased to call it, I resolved 
 " to force the Tana."' 
 
A DIFFICULT TASK. 195 
 
 Hemmed in between the river and the mountain range, 
 •with its thick growing wood, I had a lengthened encampment 
 made here. With the help of Marongo and of the Wakamba 
 who accompanied me, I put myself at once in com- communica- 
 naunication with Mhe people on the other side of the *i.'"^,y,'t'i 
 river. I oiiered them rich presents, cattle and stuffs, people, 
 if they would transport me and my whole expedition across the 
 Tana. The conversation is here carried on by the natives on 
 the opposite banks in a very remarkable manner. They speak 
 with voices hardly raised, and yet each side can perfectly hear 
 what the other says. Every sentence is answered by the cry of 
 " eh ! " in token that it has been understood. We found just the 
 same practice afterwards in Kikuyu, Kamasia, and Elgejo. 
 
 As the Tana was altogether too high to be crossed by wading, 
 I resolved, in order, in the first place, to establish a communica- 
 tion with the opposite shore, to get a rope on to an island lying 
 opposite, which was only separated from the further The pro- 
 bank by a narrow arm of the river, which did not seem ^lf^-°^ 
 
 J ' crossing" 
 
 likely to present many difficulties. The Mbe people the river, 
 professed themselves ready to help us, and already in the after- 
 noon they contrived, by wading up to their shoulders in the water, 
 to reach the island from the opposite side. There was a second 
 declivity about fifty yards above the island on our side of the 
 river. From this point I made attempts the whole afternoon to 
 reach, from our own bank, the island lying below. In the course 
 of these attempts Hussein at one time was caught in the rapids, 
 and shot, swift as an arrow, down the Tana and past the rapids, 
 so that I feared for his life ; but by exerting his utmost strength 
 he contrived to regain the right hand shore. At last the 
 Somali, Omar Idle, managed to reach the island, soomaridie's 
 that he could hail the Mbe people from thence. But ^^p^"^'- 
 this brought us little practical advantage. On this first day I 
 had also acquired a complete knowledge of the characteristics of 
 the water at this place, and I decided, on the following morning, 
 to proceed with the building of a great raft, which I intended to 
 have strongly secured with ropes, and then to draw to and fro 
 between our side and the little island lying lower down near 
 
196 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the opposite bank, and thus to get the column across in 
 sections. 
 
 My people worked with perfect zeal, as I had promised 
 rewards ; and a raft about six times as large as the one we had 
 made at Murdoi was constructed in the course of the day. At 
 the same time I made the attempt to draw a rope 
 Ind the across to the island, by which the people might swing 
 ^°^^' themselves over, and their packages also. With their 
 utmost strength the best swimmers of the expedition, among 
 whom was Herr von Tiedemann, toiled to reach the island with 
 the rope. Either each fastened it round his breast, which was 
 important as preventing them from being carried down into the 
 whirlpool, or two persons took hold of it, to reach the island 
 with it by swimming. But directly they were a certain distance 
 from the island, the strong current swept man and rope on one 
 side, or drew them under the surface. 
 
 Meanwhile the Tana was continually sinking. I had made 
 a measuring rod, which I fastened in the river, and by which I 
 The river could accurately gauge the height of the water.- As 
 falling. ^Yie river had fallen about one foot in the night between 
 November 16th and 17th, I continued the attempts with the 
 rope. At the same time I caused the Mbe people on the 
 opposite side to be asked to show us a place where the Tana was 
 narrow, and where we might hope to throw a bridge across the 
 river. They said that there was such a place a little way higher 
 up. I sent a few people there ; and when they came back and 
 reported that a bridge seemed possible in that place, at noon I 
 gave up the attempt to reach the island by the rope, inspected 
 the place proposed for the bridge, and decided, as the scheme 
 of the raft must always be exceedingly dangerous, on account 
 of the rushing current and the heavy woods, to proceed with the 
 construction of the bridge instead. 
 
 The usual method of building bridges of this kind in Africa 
 is by pushing forward heavy piles on both sides into the river, 
 as far as the current will allow. The piles are then fastened 
 together by cross beams, and over these long slender trees are 
 stretched across, the thrust being always from below upward. 
 
BUILDING A RIVER BRIDGE. 197 
 
 "When beams can no longer be used, the wort is continued with 
 hurdle work, tier upon tier being pushed forward as 
 far as the supporting power of the wood will bear. If tuiid a 
 this hurdle work, which is pushed forward from both ^"*^*' 
 sides at the same time, does not suffice, the last space is spanned 
 by tough ropes made of the bark of trees. In this manner a 
 bridge is produced, unsteady, indeed, but strong in itself, if the 
 supports are able to stand against the current. 
 
 My people, assisted by the Mbe men, worked with the 
 greatest energy and with truly heroic exertion at this bridge, 
 from November I8th to the 22nd. On the 21st the wattles had 
 been pushed so far forward on each side that only a Energetic 
 space of about fifteen feet remained to be joined by operations, 
 ropes. In the afternoon three such ropes were drawn from one 
 side to the other. The whole hung down, indeed, somewhat 
 close to the surface of the water, but I determined that when the 
 ropes had been bound together by a cross-plaiting, I would have 
 a, fencing made on either side to keep my people from being 
 drawn into the current. Of course I could not have the smaller 
 animals driven across such a bridge, but each one had to be 
 carried across separately. But as a row of porters could be 
 posted for this duty, to pass the sheep and goats from hand to 
 hand, and as this had only to be done across the middle space 
 of the bridge, it only involved the expenditure of a few hours' 
 time. 
 
 On the 21st, at night, I went to bed in the firm hope that 
 on the morrow the bridge could be completed, and the passage 
 •effected. We had had the great good fortune, that since the 
 beginning of the building of the bridge the rain had suddenly 
 ceased ; a fact the Wakamba attributed to my magic power. 
 But in the evening, on the 21st, I saw with disquietude completion 
 that the whole western horizon was covered with thick of the 
 clouds. Still, next morning, the bridge was completely 
 above the water, though the Tana had risen somewhat in the 
 night. Evidently there had been rain higher up. At seven 
 o'clock I went to where the bridge was building, and found my 
 workmen zealously employed in filling up the last gaps. Six 
 
198 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 ropes had been drawn across ; and through these, cross-piece 
 after cross-piece of wood was twisted, and firmly attached to 
 the ropes. Over the cross-pieces other pieces were to be bound 
 lengthwise, and the whole was to be finally secured by a strong 
 paling at the sides. The cross-pieces were laid down, and at 
 nine o'clock I returned to the camp, and gave orders to prepare 
 everything for crossing at eleven. 
 
 I retired into my tent for an hour to do some writing, when 
 all at once my attention was drawn to a wonderful rustling and 
 splashing in front of it. Looking out, I found that the Tana 
 had suddenly risen to the entrance of my tent. I hastened 
 Eising of towards my bridge. The whole bottom of the valley, 
 the waters, ^hich until then had been partly dry, was under water. 
 People from the bridge itself came hurrying towards me. The 
 bridge had been torn away and carried down the stream, the spite- 
 ful river having thus destroyed in a moment the arduous work of 
 six days. In half an hour the Tana had risen about four feet. 
 
 By the carrying away of the bridge, my people, who had 
 been at work on the other side of the river, were suddenly cut 
 off from us ; and as they had no weapons they were actually in 
 Our work- danger of their lives. By the most strenuous exertions 
 men cut off. Qyj. brave Somali, Mahomed Ismail, at length suc- 
 ceeded, after several useless attempts, in getting a rope across, 
 and fastening it on the other side, so that I could draw the 
 people over to me. 
 
 To keep up the spirits of the caravan, I now, in spite of our 
 failure, distributed rewards to the most diligent of our people 
 for the work they had done in the bridge-building, and com- 
 mented on the whole affair rather from the humorous point of 
 
 Change of ^^^^" ^ ^^^° ^* °^'^® despatched a column up the 
 plan of river, to settle on a path for the march of the following 
 morning. But I felt very heavy at heart as I returned 
 to my camp, for again we were to encounter all the misery of a 
 march through the forest in a direction that was turned away 
 from the goal of our journey ; and I did not even know whither 
 this march would ultimately lead us, as the position of the 
 source of the Tana was as yet unknown to me. 
 
PERSEVERANCE UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 199 
 
 In the afternoon the river suddenly began to fall again, and 
 once more the delusive hope played around me, as I had once 
 set my heart upon it, that I should cross the Tana after all, and 
 get rid of it. The follo^Ying morning I started for a reconnais- 
 sance down the river, and discovered a place where, from our 
 side, great blocks of rock projected for about a third into tlie 
 narrower river, while on the opposite side, as I was Another 
 assured by the Mbe people, who were proceeding '='^'^°'=^- 
 ixirallel with me on the other shore, a flat sandbank thrust 
 
 BUILDINC4 THE BeIDGB ACROSS THE TANA. 
 
 itself into the waters. In the midst, the water was naturally all 
 the deeper, and roared along with enormous power ; but this 
 si)ace only comprised about thirty feet, and it might be assumed 
 that it could be bridged over with hurdle work and ropes. 
 
 I will pass in silence over the labours of the next days. On 
 the evening of November 25th I once more believed that we 
 should be "able to cross the river on the morrow. Herr von 
 Tiedemann was unwell on that day, and I sat alone in front of 
 my tent. On this evening I enjoyed the strange spectacle of 
 beholding, not indeed the setting of the moon, but rather the 
 
200 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 rotation of the earth, in a manner I had never before expe- 
 rienced. The moon stood like an immovable point, exactly 
 on the horizon, in an atmosphere that, above the Tana, 
 optical"^* had been completely cleared by thunderstorms. When I 
 delusion, g^^^ ^y ^y^g steadily upon it I saw, not by any means 
 the moon moving away, but the earth turning upward, like a 
 huge balloon, from west to east, whereby the moon disappeared 
 from my view. 
 
 Towards nine o'clock heavy masses of cloud drew up from 
 the west, and soon the crashing of thunder and the glare of the 
 lightning became incessant, while plashing rain poured down 
 on us like a deluge. My people were some of them crying out 
 in the midst of the tiood, and I experienced a downright feeling 
 of shame to think I should be lying dry in my tent, while out- 
 side all were roused up in wild confusion, and had to suffer. 
 
 With dismal forebodings I went next morning to the place 
 where the bridge stood. The river had risen again five feet 
 during the previous night, and I could see already, from a dis- 
 tance, that the bridge was entirely below the surface of the 
 water ; it Avas only on the opposite side that some of the beams 
 Failure of ^tood forth. Like Frederick the Great at the battle of 
 the bridge. Kolliu, I was ready, as I could not induce any of my 
 people to go across to the other side, to throw myself alone on 
 the rope into the raging current. But so soon as I reached the 
 furthest point of the rock, and heard the roaring, howling, and 
 hissing of the floods, I understood that any attempt of the kind 
 would be constructive suicide ; and I at once gave the order for 
 breaking up the camp and resuming the march down the margin 
 of the river. 
 
 In half an hour the expedition was on the march, with beat 
 of drum, and the black, white, and red flag displayed in the van. 
 I was the last in the camp, and stood there with very peculiar 
 A day of feelings. " Idly gazing and astounded, seeth he his 
 misfortTines. ^^Qj.]jg destroyed." * I ordered them to saddle my 
 horse. But my horse, dead beat from the rain deluge of the 
 
 * From Schiller's " Lay of the Bell " — describing the impotence of man 
 against the forces of nature. — Te. 
 
A RIVER AXD ITS CATARACTS. 201 
 
 last days, stood with trembling knees, and when we tried with 
 cuts of the whip to get it to move, it suddenly sank to the 
 ground with half-extinguished eyes. So I had to part from the 
 faithful beast, and pursue my way with the wanderer's staff in 
 my hand. 
 
 The march soon led through a high leafy wood, always up 
 hill, till towards eleven o'clock we were about five hundred feet 
 above the level of the river, and now looked straight down upon 
 the current. What a magnificent view was displayed before us ! 
 Below our feet the river poured down a glorious cataract, and 
 we heard the roaring of this fall in all its majesty. Looking 
 towards the north-east, the eye wandered for a long distance 
 over the rapids below the fall, and like a silver thread the Tana 
 wound its way through the rocks, that reared their heads in bold 
 outline, and the green woodlands. I was obliged to acknow- 
 ledge that if the Tana with its powerful current was 
 
 T ,. . -, . „ . .A grand 
 
 inconvenient enough from a practical point of view, it forest 
 produced an elevating and, indeed, an altogether over- °''^"^' 
 powering impression, contemplated thus objectively. And up 
 here, under the deep blue vault of heaven, face to face with the 
 development of power in the depths, rested the peace of God. 
 The sun beamed all the clearer after the storm of the preceding 
 night ; it played with the tops and crowns of the trees, and 
 painted varied shadows on the ground, which was gay with 
 fresh grass and flowers of every kind. In the branches could 
 be heard the cries of the feathered world, and over the blossoms 
 in the woodland shade hovered many-coloured glittering butter- 
 flies, and the fresh forest air poured with an invigorating flow 
 into the lungs. Over the sordid cares of the moment the soul 
 soared away amid these impressions, and new hope came into 
 the heart. 
 
 I determined to chronicle on the map of the Tana the union 
 of powerful grandeur and moving loveliness presented by the 
 landscape at this part, and called the cataract with ^^^ ,_ ^.^ 
 its rapids, after the name of Her Majesty the German toria au- 
 
 T-, 1 -,T- • > 1 T-< n )j ffusta Fall." 
 
 Empress, the "Victoria Augusta tavL 
 
 Towards one o'clock I found Herr von Tiedemann, with the 
 
202 XEW LtGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 column, waiting in the wood, expecting me. Om- march was 
 finished. I went with Hussein and Rukua and the elder of the 
 porters, Musu, to look for a camping-place. Towards three 
 o'clock we had found one, and I sent Rukua back to lead the 
 column to it. The porters came, but the camels delayed to 
 Various make their appearance, and when at last they arrived, 
 losses. a,t about seven o'clock, I was informed that besides my 
 horse the list of victims for the day included a camel, a donkey, 
 and a porter named Omari Washikura. At all events there was 
 a completeness about the losses of this day. 
 
 On the morrow we marched about seven thousand paces 
 further, in a tremendous rain. I pitched my camp in a clear 
 space by the river, where the current in the middle was so 
 strong that it caused waves like billows of the sea to roll to the 
 banks. As on this day the Tana repeatedly rose and fell again, 
 a man might easily imagine himself by the shore of the ocean. 
 
 The following day deserved to be marked with red letters. 
 At first we still moved on among mountains. All at once the 
 declivities became gentler, and then they suddenly ceased alto- 
 gether. We were on level ground. The mountain chain was 
 A " red- passed, and once more we had the steppe before us. 
 letter day. '"^g Were uow about 2,500 feet above the level of 
 the sea. I cannot describe what a feeling of satisfaction it 
 was to have these Mumoni Mountains behind us, with their diffi- 
 culties and discomforts, that for a time had almost threatened 
 to spoil our expedition. 
 
 Once more I pitched my camp by a dry affluent of the Tana. 
 A glorious afternoon, full of sunshine, dried the exhausted 
 column, and soon brought back the old confident tone of mind 
 among the people. As Omari Washikura, to whom I had, on 
 the day before, immediately sent his brother, Ben Omari, 
 "Sick proved to be utterly incapable of following us, his 
 leave" brother came back to me to-day, asking permission to 
 granted, j-gj^^^in with him, and as soon as the sick man was 
 convalescent to return with him to the coast. I gave him the 
 required permission, and fitted him out richly with five sheep, 
 cartridges, and pieces of stuff. I also gave him letters for the 
 
WILD SPORTS IN THE FOREST. 203 
 
 coast ; but unhappily the two brothers never reached Lamu. 
 Probably they were slain by the Wakamba, or captured as 
 slaves. 
 
 In the night between November 28th and 29th, to the terror 
 of my people, three lions appeared in our camp ; but they soon 
 rushed away. For the next few days we were once more sui-- 
 rounded by the complete solitude of African bush steppes. We 
 came into regions where the wealth of animal life was Lions in 
 greater than anything we had yet met with. On the ^'^^ ''"^^■ 
 march, on the 29th, we heard for a long time the roaring of 
 lions close by the column, and we repeatedly came upon rhino- 
 ceroses, which in their stupidity rushed full upon us, till the 
 bullets from my double-barrelled rifle, catching them in the 
 region of the eyes, forced them to turn round. On the left a 
 mountain region now appeared, which was called by Marongo 
 the Tia mountain land. He informed me that it was a day and 
 a half s journey from thence to the place Kitui. 
 
 Thus we came once more into regions where a white man 
 had been before us, if only for a short time — the old Krapfs 
 faithful Krapf. I now began to hope that we should '"'"'^*'"y- 
 soon come upon the fords of the river indicated by him. 
 
 The vegetation assumed ever a fresher and more attractive 
 character. Magnificent fan palms formed a lovely screen to the 
 Tana, and great colonies of cacti shot up amid the jj^pp^ 
 various kinds of acacia in the steppe. On Novem- tamue 
 
 .„. 1 . ■ . shooting. 
 
 ber 30th I succeeded m killmg two hippopotami in a 
 
 little aflfiuent of the Tana,— a welcome addition to the store of 
 
 meat for my Waniamwesi. 
 
 On December 1st we came to a place in the river where it 
 divides into seven forks. " Here," thought I, " is where we 
 must cross," and I at once began to ascertain the depth 
 of the separate arms of the river. Meanwhile my column had 
 come up, and we halted on the right hand shore, while my 
 people waded across one arm after another. As we were thus 
 taking our ease, an enormous rhinoceros suddenly Hunting a 
 rose up, in one of the little islands situated in '^'""'°^""'- 
 the river, and was about to cross the arm of the river 
 
204 
 
 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFIUC'A. 
 
 that separated us from the island, exactly in the fece of 
 nor column. M_v jK^iplo jnmjDed up in alarm, but a shot in 
 tlie head from my rifle induced the colossus to retreat, and 
 atU'nijJt tlie passage of the river somewliat lower down. But 
 this brought the animal directly into the line of fire, and not 
 onlv Ilerr von Tiedemaini, l)ut several of the 8onialis also shot 
 
 ttf ' '^ Ij<^ HUNTINCJ THE lilllXO- 
 
 -^■J^f 
 
 . '■"'" '' at it, so that the rhino- 
 ceros fell on the ground not 
 far from the place where we 
 had intended crossing. This was a slight encouragement, but 
 not enough to sweeten the failure of the passage. 
 
 Six of the arms were fordable ; but the seventh represented 
 the real course of the Tana, and hard as my people tried to 
 find a place where they could wade across, the thing this 
 time again proved to be impossible. I remained at this fork 
 
The -Carl Alexander Falls. 
 
THE KARL ALEXANDER CATARACT. 205 
 
 of the river all the day, and next day marched further up 
 the stream amid a succession of showers of rain. En- 
 counters with rhinoceroses now formed part of the cuit laaa 
 incidents of each marching day. On December 2nd I ^^^^' 
 moreover lost my last faithful dog Tell, who suddenly ceased 
 to follow me, and, when I coaxed him, all at once fell down 
 trembling, with glazed eyes ; so that I had to leave „ ^ , 
 
 , ^ , Deatn of 
 
 Rukua behmd, with a request to Herr von Tiedemann faithful 
 to shoot the poor creature. On such expeditions as 
 these it is, in fact, unadvisable to take dogs, or anything to 
 which our heart grows attached, for it is necessary to part from 
 one after another, and each parting has its separate heartache. 
 
 According to Marongo's assertion, we were to arrive in 
 Kikuyu to-day, but this prophecy turned out to be a great 
 mistake. We did, indeed, come once more to a wooded mounted 
 region, in front of which the Tana spreads out into a broad, 
 lakelike form. This I caused to be sounded at various places 
 with regard to its depth, and thus gained something like a 
 measurement of its surface, which I should estimate at an 
 average of 3,300 square yards. 
 
 A little above this lake-like broadening of the river the mass 
 of water flings itself down in a cataract, which, though it rushes 
 over several terra,ces, must, according to the aneroid barometer, 
 have a total height of more than three hundred feet, and may 
 accordingly be safely reckoned among the greatest a grand 
 waterfalls of the earth. As it began to rain towards thf^Kari 
 noon, I pitched my camp on the slope of a hill, about Alexander." 
 90 feet below the summit of this cataract, and here the rock 
 literally trembled beneath us. The uproar was so loud that we 
 could hardly keep up a conversation. If this waterfall were 
 situated in any other part of the world it would certainly every 
 year be a goal for the journey of the cultured world. I named 
 it, after His Royal Highness the Grand Duke of Saxony, the 
 " Karl Alexander Fall." 
 
 From the heights I could see, in the north, a quite peculiarly 
 formed mountain region, which I was a few days later to identify 
 as Kikuyu Muea. Mbe was, accordingly, now behind us, and 
 
206 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the hope that Me should be quit of the wearisome Tana 
 became stronger. 
 
 From the mountains that had so much frightened us on 
 December 2nd we emerged on the following day. The Tana 
 likewise began to depart from its southern direction, and to 
 incline first towards the west, and soon afterwards even a little 
 towards west-north-west. This likewise was a hopeful sign. 
 
 On this day, December 3rd, I shot a magnificent waterbuck 
 
 and an antelope ; and now it was that I suddenly astonished 
 
 Herr von Tiedemann with an art which he did not 
 
 Sport and „ . 
 
 culinary at all suspect me 01 possessmg. 1 began to occupy 
 science, j^yggif -with the kitchen, and prepared pieces of the 
 back of the waterbuck with a sauce that almost excited Herr von 
 Tiedemann to admiration. He thought he had never tasted 
 anything like it at Hiller's or Uhl's. As we always had a supply 
 of milk and cream, and the proportion of meat in the strong 
 broth was of no great consequence, and we had also salt and 
 pepper still in store, the preparation of a strong sauce did not 
 present very formidable difficulties. From that time we occupied 
 ourselves more and more with the labours of the kitchen, and 
 practically degraded to the character of a scullion the brave 
 cook, Bamberger, who seemed to be of opinion that, for possible 
 scientific investigations in Europe, he ought to accumulate 
 , ^ every kind of East African remnant in our cooking pots. 
 
 Bamberger •' . . . . 
 
 and Ms Bamberger was one of the originals of the expedition, 
 °°^ ''and entirely disproved the dogma of the educational 
 importance of the whip of hippopotamus hide. In the best 
 natured manner he opposed all measures of mine that were 
 directed towards cleanliness, or even the punctual accom- 
 plishment of work. When the hippopotamus hide whip was 
 flourished over his back, he prayed to Allah, which he never did 
 at other times. When the unpleasant performance was closed, he 
 would betake himself Avith a cheerful smile, once more to his 
 cooking pots, which might have done well for the retorts in the 
 witch's kitchen at a performance of Faust. In the further 
 course of the expedition I appointed him as drummer ; and as 
 he^showed himself completely competent for this office, and 
 
CROSSING THE GREAT STEPPE. 207 
 
 also fought most manfully in our combats, a reciprocal feeling 
 of esteem was developed between him and us, towards the end 
 of our intercourse. 
 
 On December 3rd, about ten miles above the Karl Alexander 
 Fall, I discovered another waterfall, which poured down 
 its waters like a note of interrogation. It turned towards the 
 north, then towards the east, shot down in that direction, and 
 immediately below the fall the river turned to the south, and 
 then, by the west, took its way back directly to the north. 
 This fall I entered on my map, after the name of jj^^ 
 our most prominent scientific African investigator, "sohwein- 
 
 furthFall" 
 
 as the " Schweinfurth Fall." At noon on this day I aiid"Krapf 
 pitched my camp below a conical rock, which is ^^^^'" 
 situated- about at the place where Krapf must have reached the 
 river. The spot cannot be determined with complete accuracy, 
 as the statements of Krapf are too undecided. In honour of the 
 old German missionary and honest investigator I called this 
 hill " Krapf Hill." 
 
 The forest that skirts the Tana now, to my great joy, 
 receded more and more, and on the following day ended 
 entirely. Instead of it, there extended before us the wide, red 
 grass-covered steppe, over which the eye could range 
 for many miles, where on the horizon great herds of ukamba 
 antelopes or bucks stood forth, and among them zebras 
 and giraffes ; where the rhinoceros thundered along, and where 
 at night the lion lifted up his voice. This is the actual 
 elevated steppe of Ukamba Kitui, which we now entered, and 
 the sight of which made our hearts beat higher, in view of the 
 fact that from here we should come direct into the region of 
 Kikuyu. 
 
 In this steppe the Tana began to receive affluents from the 
 south side likewise; a proof that we were approaching the 
 western chains of mountains. On December 6th we crossed 
 several of these southern tributaries, that cut their way iributa-'ies 
 deeply in the red clay soil, but generally contained only °^ *^® ^*"*- 
 a little water. I had learned from the people of Mbe that the 
 Wakamba of Kitui, when they went to Kikuyu and the Baringo, 
 
208 
 
 NEW LiaUT OX DARK AFRICA 
 
 crossed tlie Tana at a place where it becomes two rivers (niito 
 niibili). The name of Dilca Avas given as that of tlie secoud 
 river, which was described as coming from the soutli. For 
 some days we had been looking for this division of the river. 
 On December 6th I made a long excursion up the Tana for 
 this purpose with Hussein Fara. The river had here taken a 
 course exactly towards the west-north-west, and my servant 
 Rukua liad declared, already on the preceding day, that he had 
 seen the Kenia, which is not improbable, as he had very sharp 
 eyes. Hussein and I discovered the long-sought fork, on (he 
 
 
 
 
 
 .^,, 
 
 ji t 
 
 jm 
 
 
 
 
 - fl 
 
 ■^fc^-1 
 
 M 
 
 Ih 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 HI 
 
 4 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^*' 
 
 
 "'^ 
 
 iSJ- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 m--_^ef!l!f(^_ 
 
 i'01;LJI\(.i- THE DiKA. 
 
 6th, in the far distance. Greatly elated by this fact, we 
 returned to our camp that afternoon. 
 
 On December 7th, after a two hours' march, this division of 
 the river was reached towards the south-west, among the moun- 
 tains towards the Naiwasha lake, and the passage over the 
 Dika, in which the people had to wade up to the chest in 
 Passage of Water, with all the cattle and the burdens, was happily 
 the Dika. accomplished in about the same space of time. I made 
 the people stand in a row across the Thika river, which is about 
 90 feet wide, and thus one sheep after another was passed 
 from hand to hand to the opposite bank. From this spot the 
 Tana turns more and more towards the north. 
 
FIRST VIEW OF KENIA. 209 
 
 We are now at an elevation of about 4,800 feet, and the nights 
 begin to be refreshingly cool. The thermometer at night falls 
 to 15° C. (58 Fahrenheit), and the evenings are agreeable and 
 refreshing. The firmament in the hom-s of night appears more 
 immeasurably lofty than anywhere else on account of the 
 more rarefied atmosphere. The grasses and herbs be- The steppe : 
 come sweeter and fresher, and entirely new kinds of '*^^^*'^*^ 
 
 •^ ana am- 
 
 trees appear. The number of game animals is enormous. ™^i^' ^t"- 
 Zebras, antelopes, rhinoceroses, wild hogs, and waterbucks are 
 often seen feeding peacefully together. Every day's march yields 
 prizes to the gun. The enclosure of the Tana again increases, 
 but it has lost the hard character that marks the lower steppe, 
 and offers an easy access to the waters. On our left the mountain 
 chain begins ; its outlying ridges extend to the river. It can be 
 none other than the Kenangop range that borders the Naiwasha 
 lake on the north-east. Already on December 6th we xraces of 
 had suddenly, to our great joy, come upon traces of *'^*'®"^'^=- 
 mankind, in the shape of a place with cooking stones and tent 
 pegs that had been left behind. These traces soon ceased again, 
 but we could perceive that they led across the river. I was in- 
 formed in Kikuyu that they were those of an Arab caravan, 
 which had marched from Mombassa to Lorian. 
 
 All this led us to suppose that the time of our laborious 
 march on the Tana was drawing to its conclusion, and that we 
 must be near Kikuyu. After the passage of the Tana, ^^^ ^^^^ 
 as I was accustomed to express it, the " poison fang " of difficulty 
 the river had been extracted. Its volume of water had 
 decreased by one half, and it flowed quietly and modestly 
 onwards. On December 8th we suddenly came upon some men. 
 They were upon the opposite side of the Tana, but with Marongo 
 as an interpreter, we were able to make ourselves understood by 
 them. They were people from Kikuyu, who had driven their 
 herds down stream, and they told us that we should reach their 
 countr}' on the morrow. 
 
 On this day we descried for the first time, though it was to 
 some extent veiled, the mighty cone of the Kenia, just in front 
 of us, on the horizon in the north. When towards evening the 
 
 14 
 
210 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 clouds parted, its snowclad summit was also to be seen. That 
 was an impressive sight ; and our hearts beat higher when we 
 The Kenia thoughf amid how much toil, care, and exertion we had 
 Mountain, ^j^g^ jg^j ^j^yg fa,r. On October 25th we had thought we 
 beheld the Kenia before us ; and now December 8th had come 
 before our passionate longing had been realised. Wliat a wealth 
 of impressions and experiences filled the space between those 
 two dates ! Unhappily, on that evening, one of my porters from 
 Dar-es-Salam, Amdallah, was left behind. He had for some 
 Poor time suffered from consumption, and I had long since 
 Amdallah. relieved him of his burden. The lions, which roared on 
 that night louder than usual behind us, unfortunately left no 
 doubt as to the poor fellow's fate. 
 
 On December 9th, the Tana again turned a little more 
 towards the north. "We crossed a second western tributary, and 
 now quitted the Tana altogether, which from this place turns, 
 in curves visible at a long distance, towards the Kenia, from 
 The Aber- which it flows. About uoou On this day, we came to a 
 dare Range, j-^^j^ Water poud in the neighbourhood of the Marawa, 
 after we had journeyed all the morning over long-drawn ridges 
 of hills with gradual declivities. The Kenia was continually 
 half to our right, and on the left were the mountains of the 
 Naiwasha Lake, called by Thomson the Aberdare Range. 
 
 We were now in Kikuyu, a high plateau region between 
 Kenia and the western mountain ranges, in which the Tana 
 really collects its volume of waters. In the afternoon the 
 proud, noble Kenia Mountain stood for the first time before us, 
 in its whole unsullied purity, in the sunlight, with its snow- 
 fields sparkling in the brightness. Towards four o'clock on this 
 day my Somalis and Rukua, whom I had sent out to settle on 
 the road for next day's march, suddenly brought five Wakikuyu 
 wakikuyn ^^*° °^^ Camp. ThcsB Were the first strange faces we 
 men in the had eucouutered for more than a fortnight ; and for 
 
 camp, 1, J? • • o ' 
 
 the first time again, since that period, vegetable food 
 for us and our people ! They told us, that they would lead us 
 next morning to their villages, and declared themselves willing 
 to pass the night in camp. They also immediately inquired 
 
AMONG THE WAKIKUYU. 211 
 
 whether I had come to bu}^ slaves of them, announcing them- 
 selves as having some of both sexes for disposal. 
 
 Violent showers poured down upon us at night, as the)' had 
 previously done by day. Next morning early we were already 
 on the march, in a north-westerly direction. The Wakikuyu 
 showed me the place, in the distance, where Count Teleki had 
 lived. At eleven o'clock, when we mounted a far-extending 
 acclivity, we came upon the first settlements of men. The 
 people hurried to meet us, bringing flour, sugar, and mtama 
 for sale, of which my people bought as much as they were 
 at all able to carry. 'J'hen, accompanied by a crowd Friendly 
 that could be counted by thousands, we ascended ^^^thThe™ 
 another range of heights, and so through thick grass, natives, 
 waving like a sea, down to the margin of a little river, the 
 Marawa, which we had here to cross. The \\^akikuyu knew the 
 white race, and indeed in a manner advantageous to us, for 
 Count Teleki and Herr von Hohnel had lived here. These twO' 
 had taught the people of Kikuyu a certain amount of good 
 manners ; and it amused me to see how, in consequence, the 
 natural insolence of these natives was continually mingled with 
 outbreaks of fear. 
 
 Of this I had immediate experience when, by the river 
 Marawa, people came towards me, with the demand that I should 
 pay tribute before I crossed. I gave them to understand that 
 such was not the custom with us ; but I was obliged to order 
 them in peremptory tones to stand away from the ford, before 
 they suddenly declared themselves entirely willing to 
 
 let us pass the Marawa without tribute. Here, in the of the 
 afternoon hours of December 10th, a very original 
 passage of a river was effected, my people and the Kikuyu 
 working harmoniously together. The water reached about to 
 our necks, and it may be imagined what difficulties were 
 experienced in getting the cattle and the loads of powder through 
 the rushing current. I had at once caused a rope to be stretched 
 across the river, by which the men could hold fast. The work 
 went on diligently, the camels and donkeys were pulled across by 
 the rope, and at about four o'clock the last had been carried over. 
 
•212 NEW LKHIT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Here it was that the brave Marongo manifested all the 
 noble qualities of his character. His time of suffering was now 
 over, and I intended to send him, rewarded with presents, back 
 to his home. For the first time he walked with us to-day as a 
 Maron o a " gentleman," unguarded. His heart, filled with grati- 
 gentieman tude. Swelled high when I presented him, in addition, 
 with an old gun and some ammunition. He brandished 
 the gun like a lance, high above his head, pointing it at the 
 Kikuyu people, and marching upon them with enormous strides 
 whenever, during the passage, they came too near the baggage. 
 He maintained strict order, and was thoroughly impressed with 
 his own personal importance. " The Wakikuya take me for a 
 European," he said, glancing with a grin at his European 
 costume. 
 
 A little above the ford by which the caravan had passed 
 over was a swaying bridge, high over the river ; and by this I 
 myself, with Herr von Tiedemann and a few soldiers, crossed 
 to the opposite side. Our tents had already been pitched there, 
 A crowd, some thousands strong, surrounded our camp, curious!) 
 and importunately. Partly from a freak of ostentation, I re- 
 solved to have a solemn entry. Two Somalis were sent on in 
 advance, incessantly blowing the trumpet, and behind them 
 came a drummer beating a march. Then followed Rukua with 
 Solemn *^® black, white, and red flag ; behind him came I, and 
 entry into behind me Herr von Tiedemann. Two Somali soldiers 
 
 Konse. i i ^i ■ t t ■ 
 
 closed the procession. In this way we proceeded along 
 the distance, some hundred paces, to our camping-place. The 
 first thing I did was to have the crowding Kikuyu people, who 
 had come dangerously near our flock of sheep, driven back 
 twenty or thirty steps in every direction by the Somali soldiers, 
 and to inform the elders that any raids upon our herds or upon 
 the goods of the expedition would be answered by shots from 
 my guns. Then I entered my tent. We were now in Konse, 
 about five miles from Kitura, the Kitui of Count Teleki. The 
 way to Baringo appeared to lie open before us, and we thought 
 we had left behind us the technically difficult portion of the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition. 
 
^^^mm^^- 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 J THROUGH THE MASSAIS, 
 OVER THE LEIKIPIA 
 I'LATEAU TO THE 
 BARINGO LAKE. 
 
 "Who helped me 'gainst the Titans' 
 insolence, 
 Who rescued nic from death, from 
 slavery ? " 
 
 Goethe. 
 
 I' 
 
 N Kiknyn seA'en days 
 (if rejoiciuj; re- 
 I'reslK'd the expedition, 
 wliicli was greatly ex- 
 lia Listed by marclies on 
 the I'pperTana. stay at 
 Kikuyii is a hind ^^''^''■ 
 tliat can feed its j)eeiple, 
 a region literally flowing 
 with milk and honey. It 
 is a monutainous conn- 
 try, with gently-sloping 
 lines, inclining towards 
 
 the Kenia on the south, richly Avatered, and with a fresh and 
 
 verdant appearance everywhere. 
 
-214 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 There are two divisions of this country : Kikuyu Mbi on 
 the right side of the Tana (Kikuyii 2), where we now were, 
 and Kikuyu Mnea on the left bank of the river (Kikuyu 1). 
 Thomson has much to say of the untameable cruelty of the 
 inhabitants — exaggerated like all the pictures of the dangers 
 among the inhabitants of this steppe offered by Thomson to 
 the wondering European. Count Teleki and Herr von 
 of the Hohnel had thoroughly impressed the thievish Waki- 
 ^' kuyu with the superiority of European weapons ; 
 accordingly, as I have already stated, we were brought face 
 to face with a whimsical mixture of impudent, thievish pro- 
 pensities and sentiments of timid submission. The native 
 chiefs hastened to make their peace with us, which was ratified 
 by the slaughter of a goat or a sheep. The younger inhabi- 
 tants, however, could not restrain a propensity to thieving, 
 confirmed by transmission through many generations, even 
 after, with the concurrence of the elders, I had ordained that 
 every attempt at robbery should be visited with capital punish- 
 ment, and a number of them had suffered the penalty for in- 
 Their dulging their thievish proclivities. If the flocks were 
 propeu- driven through the land, luxuriant with grass, a black 
 sities. s^YTO., its posscssor entirely hidden in the bush, would 
 be suddenly thrust forth from one side, and seizing a sheep 
 by the hind leg, would endeavour to vanish with the prize as 
 quickly as it had appeared. Then the Somalis would fire into 
 the bushes, out of which a yell of pain would burst forth, pro- 
 claiming that just punishment had overtaken the evildoer. 
 
 Thus for seven days did we travel through this beauteous 
 Kikuyu, whose flora already exhibits the forms of the temperate 
 zone. Here we met with a kind of tree that reminded us vividly 
 Journey of our European oaks. Here I saw the fresh green 
 thrK^uyu clover of the North German borders, on which donkeys, 
 country, goats, and sheep browsed with much enjoyment. Clear 
 rivulets gushed onward through all the hollows, with an average 
 temperature of only 14-15° C. (55-58° Fahr.). The nights were 
 already bitterly cold ; the thermometer fell by ten o'clock to 
 8-9° C. (44-47° Fahr.). In the morning the hoarfrost lay spread 
 
JOT^RXF.Y n/RorG/r kikvyu 
 
 215 
 
 over the I'resh landscape. On December 16th the registerinij; 
 " lowest tempera tnre " thermometer for the first time exhibited 
 the register at the freezing-point. 
 
 The ways here generally lead along by the far-extending 
 hills. "When we had reached the heights, we every morning 
 enjoyed the view of the grave and majestic lines of the Kenia, 
 
 Hut of the Wakikuiu. 
 
 which appeared more and more prominently in the north. The 
 Wakikuyn snatched greedily at the colonred and white Trade with 
 l)ieces of stnft" which we still had with us, and brought ^''^ °''*'^''- 
 in return into our cam]) ([uantities of poultry, milk, and honey, 
 besides abundance of grain of all kinds, so that black and white 
 revelled alike m the treasures of this beautiful land. 
 
 Kikuyu is, beyond all question, the pearl of the English 
 
216 iVA'ir LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 possessions, with the exception of Uganda. It is unfortunate 
 that this cool and fruitful land lies so far distant from the 
 coast ; otherwise it would most certainly be suited for colonisa- 
 tion by European agriculturists. 
 
 On December 1 7th we were approaching the western rampart 
 of Kikuyu. On this morning I had endeavoured to engage 
 fifteen fresh Kikuyu porters, as far as to the Baringo. The 
 impudent fellows, not taking warning by the experiences of the 
 preceding days, had believed they could completely overreach 
 us by demanding payment in advance, in stuffs, for their ser- 
 vices to the Baringo, and then absconding with their 
 
 The cll68it- cj ' *— ' 
 
 ing Kikuyu booty. But I was prepared for an attempt that was so 
 portere. g^actly in their way. The fugitives were at once laid 
 low by a few bullets from our guns, and we succeeded in getting 
 hold of and securing eleven of these Kikuyu people, who were 
 now compelled to make up their minds to undertake with us 
 the march into the Massai lands they detested. This happened 
 in the midst of a crowd of people that might be counted not 
 by thousands only, but certainly by tens of thousands ; for the 
 whole of Kikuyu is extraordinarily populous. But the multitude 
 was so intimidated that the people dared not attack us, though 
 there were only about fifty of us in all. 
 
 We were led by the High Priest Kikuyus, who, with all 
 manner of mysterious ceremonies, blessed the bridges we had to 
 cross, and sprinkled the roads. We were also requested every 
 Magic moment, when we came to a parting of the roads, to 
 ceremonial. gp^^_ -pj^g Wakikuyu declared it was to avert the evil 
 omen ; but I suspected it was to deliver us over to evil spirits. 
 We passed by a number of pleasant-looking kraals and fish- 
 ponds, with the glittering Kenia beside us, towards the right 
 hand. Gradually the cultivated land was left behind. A dense 
 primeval forest separates Kikuyu from the land of the Massais. 
 Climbing plants twist themselves among the primeval thickets. 
 Defences ^''^'^ malignant stinging nettles make any deviation 
 made by from the beaten track practically impossible. Over 
 
 thenatives. ^, , i i i , n -rr-n \ i i 
 
 the only path that leads out oi Kikuyu they have made 
 strong fences, between which deep chevaux-de-frise, concealed 
 
WESTERN BOUNDARY OF KIKUYU. 217 
 
 from the traveller, have been sunk, their beds studded with 
 sharp pegs, to receive the unsuspecting stranger falling into 
 them. I had one of these trap pits opened, and found that it 
 was at least eighteen feet deep. Whoever falls among these 
 sharp pegs is lost beyond all question. To the left, through the 
 wood, I was obliged to have a way cut, to avoid such dangers 
 for my column. ^Ye came immediately to a great clearing, 
 where for the first time for a week we again saw great herds of 
 game animals. Here we halted, and took leave of the chiefs 
 of the Wakikuyu who had accompanied us. I only took three 
 guides forward with me ; they were to lead us out of the prim- 
 eval forest to the elevated plateaus of Leikipia, as far 
 
 ^ r ' Guide to 
 
 as the boundaries of the Massailands. In the west, to the Massai- 
 the left of us, — for we were now marching continuously 
 to the north-west, — rose sharply and clearly defined the moun- 
 tains of the Naiwasha Lake, called by the Massais Subugu la 
 Poron. To the right, permanently in our view, rose the Kenia, 
 an invaluable landmark for the further progress of the expedi- 
 tion, as I knew that it is situated exactly on the equator, and 
 that the Baringo Lake, which I was trying to reach, is about f° 
 north. I had, with the exception of the question of water, no 
 difficulty as to keeping the line of march for the following 
 weeks. 
 
 On the margin of the primeval forest, in a second clearing 
 of the wood, I had my camp pitched, towards noon, near a pool 
 from which the column could draw water. All the waters of 
 Kikuyu pour themselves into the Tana. We now stood ^^^^^ ^^ 
 on a watershed, for we came this day to the river the Guaso 
 
 Nviro 
 
 region of the Guaso Nyiro, which, emerging from the 
 mountains of the Naiwasha Lake, makes its way towards the 
 north, past the Kenia and the Endika Mountains, where it turns 
 towards the east. We stood here, on December 17th, at a part- 
 ing from whence a portion of the waters flows towards the north, 
 while close by, the Tana, having its source in the Kenia, pours 
 its flood towards the south. In Kikuyu the Tana bears the 
 name of Sagana, which is identical with Kilima, meaning 
 simply " mountain." 
 
218 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 To-day the Wakikuyu guides left us. They could be of no 
 further use to us, as they did not know the Leikipia Plateau, 
 through which the Massais range. 
 
 The thermometer this night sank to 28° (Fahr.). It was 
 true Christmas weather, suitable for the approaching feast. 
 Coldness of The lightly-clad people cried out with cold and pain; 
 the nights. ^^^^ J i^^ygelf used, from this time, to wake regu- 
 larly every morning between three and four o'clock, shaking 
 with cold, though I was ensconced in four blankets, wore 
 woollen drawers and shirts, and spread my winter wrapper 
 over me. In the morning, when we marched through the frost- 
 whitened grass, the cold seemed to cut into our feet, though 
 we wore woollen stockings and boots up to the knee. 
 
 When the sun got higher, we had the most lovely weather 
 of a German August and September. The air above was so 
 thin that the eye seemed to rove through immeasurable dis- 
 tance. A hill, a tree, even a single leaf on the tree, stands out 
 in the crystal air as though it might be grasped. The game 
 animals, feeding in the sunlight in crowded groups, seem so 
 entirely within range, that involuntarily the traveller raises his 
 gun again and again for a shot at them. But, behold ! the ball 
 strikes midway between the hunter and his intended prey. But 
 A mountain throughout the whole bright morning, on the right, rises 
 region. ^]^g Keuia, with what appears to us its seven-peaked, 
 icy crown towering into the blue sky, lifting itself proudly and 
 royally above the eminences around. Spotless and pure it 
 stands, not like a thing created, but like an embodiment of the 
 Eternal Himself; and involuntarily the heart is lifted up above 
 the petty cares and thoughts of every-day life. When, at noon, 
 the sun rises to the zenith, the temperature likewise rises to 
 30°. But now the Kenia begins to veil his icy head in the 
 clouds, and early in the aftel'noon a hailstorm, or a driving 
 rain-shower, descends upon our camp, by which the temperature 
 is at once cooled down again to 17-13° C. (62-55° Fahr.), so 
 that from five o'clock we have congenial and cool November 
 weather. 
 
 Thus the march through the Leikipia Plateau goes on, so 
 
THE HEIGHTS OF THE KENT A. 219 
 
 long as we are under the north-east monsoon that sweeps down 
 from the Kenia. This whole country has something TheieiHpia 
 spectral and unearthly about it. We are here, perhaps, ^i**^^'^- 
 on the oldest piece of earth, which has certainly been turned 
 towards the sun for millions of years. Leikipia stood above the 
 surface of the sea at a period since which South America has 
 twice been buried deep in the waves, and thus it still confronts 
 the gazing wanderer. It is an ancient, wrinkled woman, weary 
 of life, and withered ; ready, on her part, once more to dive 
 down, rather to-day than to-morrow, into the reposeful abyss 
 of death. To the right and to the left it has set up its sons — 
 sifnilar to itself, and ancient likewise — Subugu la Poron and the 
 Kenia. But the Kenia is the firstborn. He wears the The grand 
 kingly crown that sparkles like diamonds, and with Kemapeak. 
 him is the habitation of the dark forms of the primeval forest 
 that here perform their mysteries. According to the belief of 
 the Massais, the Godhead itself dwells on the Kenia, and, un- 
 approachable, this seat of the Divine is cut off from the contact 
 of the finite. To ascend the towering height of 23,000 feet will 
 be a problem which only the boldest and most stout-hearted of 
 our Alpine climbers might hope to accomplish. Proudly he 
 draws around him the threefold girdle of bristling, impenetrable 
 virgin forest, of boulders of the wilderness, and, lastly, of iron- 
 bound glacier ice. If the Hellenes had seen the Kenia they 
 would have dethroned Olympus, and have transferred hither the 
 abodes of the Eternal Ones. Had Shakespeare wandered upon the 
 plateau he would have made it the scene of the witches' incanta- 
 tions in Macbeth ; for here, and not in the Scottish Highlands, 
 is the grandest background for the creations of Ossian. 
 
 This plateau we reached on December 18th, penetrated with 
 the awe of the eternal in the presence of these mysterious and 
 minatory scenes of nature. On the 19th we had still The Guaso 
 to traverse a lengthened woodland district, to cross ^yi"^"^'^^'- 
 several rushing brooks, which brawled along over volcanic 
 debris towards the north. On this day we set up our camp at 
 the Guaso Nyiro, which, cutting its course deeply through 
 volcanic stone, rolls to the north, to the left of the Kenia. On 
 
•2-20 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the afternoon of this daj' I ascended a hill, which commanded 
 the surromiding counti\y. There all at once the sight stretched 
 immeasm-abl}' into the endless distance of the north. The land 
 undulates gentl}', and there is nothing to limit the observer's 
 o-aze. The fancy is awakened, and the sight seems to stretch 
 to Abyssinia, to Egypt ; a delusion, certainly, occasioned by 
 the transparency and elasticity of the atmosphere. 
 
 I determined, in the first place, to traverse this steppe in a 
 northern direction till the Kenia turned oif to the south-east, 
 Line of ^lud then to turn westward, to hit one of the southern 
 march. afflueuts to Lake Baringo. 
 
 The land seemed deserted. On the summits of the hills 
 appeared the peculiar circumvallations of the Massai kraals. 
 No human beings were to be seen. All this increased the 
 gloomy character of the landscape in the highest degree. The 
 Important danger in this marching through pathless regions, 
 quesuon of ^j^^^q^^ guides acquainted with the locality, is prin- 
 auppiy. cipally connected with the question of water. The 
 finding of water is entirely a matter of chance. How could I 
 know, when I broke up my camp in the morning, where I 
 should find water, or if I should find it at all ? With this object 
 in view, I used always, with a few of my people, to precede the 
 column by at least an hour's march, always keeping a look-out 
 for the course of a brook, or a pond of standing water. 
 
 On December 20th, I certainly succeeded in solving my 
 problem in an especially favourable way. That day we en- 
 camped due east of the Kenia by an affluent of the Guaso 
 Nyiro, the most charming camping-place we had found on the 
 whole expedition. The shore is here fringed with a growth 
 of fine grass, which in the autumn is bright with all kinds of 
 colours. This carpet is studded with picturesque groups of 
 trees, among which the acacias, with their sharp outlines, are 
 Camping especially prominent. On account of its loneliness I 
 Gretchen- named this valley — which I can recommend to future 
 Thai. travellers as a camping-place — the " Gretchen-Thal." 
 This name suddenly occurred to my mind when, on returning 
 from a prospecting excursion towards the north, I looked down 
 
PLAN OF THE EXPEDITION. 221 
 
 on the pleasant picture of mj' encamped column, engaged in 
 cooking, and on the grazing herd, the camels and donkej^s, and 
 the cheerful people. On the afternoon of December 20th, just 
 as I was working at a report for Germany, in which I declared 
 that Leikipia appeared deserted, and that it seemed as though 
 the Massais had fled before us, the Kenia suddenl}^ and a tropical 
 for the last time, poured down on my tent such a hail- ^*'"'"'- 
 storm as threatened almost to crush it to pieces, as though to 
 express utter scorn of my delusion. The Kenia, whose sons the 
 Massais call themselves, knew his children better ! He was 
 perfectly aware that they retreat before no man, and least of 
 all before a little expedition like ours ; and of this we were to 
 receive proof next day. 
 
 Before continuing my narrative, I will here insert a short 
 account of the general plan of the German Emin Pasha Expe- 
 dition under my leadership. Previously to my expedition, the 
 Massai route had in general been considered as practically 
 almost impassable. Entirely exaggerated opinions were held 
 as to the dangers of this road. In view of these difficulties, 
 Stanley had made up his mind to make the long pjanofthe 
 circuit round the Cape and up the Congo, although, E^^pasha 
 compared with ourselves, he had unlimited means Expedition, 
 at his disposal, and had the support of all official circles 
 working in Africa. An assertion of Stanley's has been com- 
 municated to me, in which he gave it as his opinion, that to get 
 through the Massais in warlike fashion, a man must have a 
 force of at least one thousand Europeans at his back. A large 
 part of the German Emin Pasha committee continued to hold 
 similar opinions. Wissmann, as well as Reichardt, declared 
 the Massai route to be impracticable ; and Wissmann Eeichardt's 
 especially, when he laid before the committee his plan ''v^-^°''- 
 for the march up the Tana, had included in it, as a matter of 
 course, the avoiding of the Massailand and Uganda. 
 
 This view, moreover, could not appear altogether unwar- 
 ranted, after perusing the reports of the two travellers who 
 up to that time had traversed Massailand, namely, that of 
 Dr. Fischer, and that of Thomson especially. Thomson com- 
 
222 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 manded an expedition in Massailand, compared with which our 
 Thomson's I'esources must appear altogether ludicrous ; and yet 
 expedition, j^g jjg^^j jj^ ^j^g^^^ countrj Submitted to a treatment 
 which, judged by a European standard, not only falls below the 
 notion of " gentlemanlike," but must be plainly designated as 
 unworthy. Proofs of this are plentifully found in his book of 
 travels. Thomson thought he could produce an impression on 
 the Massais by all kinds of tricks, as, for instance, by playing 
 the part of a great magician, taking out his set of false 
 teeth and putting it back again, preparing eflferyescing lemonade 
 with Eno's Fruit Salt, and declaring the devil was in the 
 mixture. I have tried to produce an impression on the Massais 
 by means of forest fires, by fiery rockets, and even by a total 
 jj eclipse of the sun that happened to occur on December 
 
 ment ofthe23rd ; but I have found, after all, that the one thing 
 which would make an impression on these wild sons of 
 the steppe was a bullet from the repeater or the double-barrelled 
 rifle, and then only when employed in emphatic relation to their 
 own bodies. 
 
 The results of the Thomsonian manipulation were what 
 might have been expected. I will cite a few passages from his 
 book of travels which prove this very clearly. I do this, on the 
 one hand, to prove what ideas the Massais in these regions must 
 Effect of ^^^^ ^^^ °^ *^^ white race, and, on the other, because 
 Thomson's for my part, on my first meeting with the Massais, I 
 
 treatment. i(- • ^ n , i • 
 
 mysell was mfluenced by the mipressions produced by 
 Thomson's descriptions. I was firmly resolved, let come what 
 would, not to put up with such behaviour towards myself. 
 
 Among other things, the Massais had forbidden Thomson to 
 shoot on their territory. Thomson himself tells us that though 
 there were oxen, showing the neighbourhood of Massais, about a 
 mile off, he resolved, in consideration of their starving conditioi), 
 to risk a shot. The beast falls, and Thomson's servant rushes up 
 to it, and at once tears off a piece to eat raw. Thomson tells 
 us, in continuation (3rd edition, p. 368), "My exclamations of 
 disgust were stopped by hearing warning voices, and, turning 
 about, I saw my men pointing in the direction of the Massai 
 
THOMSON'S RELATIONS WITH THE JIASSAFS. 223 
 
 kraals. ' We are in for it now ! ' I mentally ejaculated, as I 
 saw great numbers of warriors with their gleaming spears com- 
 ing towards us at full trot. I retreated at once towards mj^ 
 men, Brahmin bringing a huge chunk of zebra with him. The 
 warriors were soon down upon us, and in response to their cries 
 we stopped, and closed up. The Elmoran, in the most savage 
 manner, demanded an explanation. As they stuck their great 
 spears in the ground, they asked us if we wanted to fight. If 
 so, they were ready ! We at once put on our most ' umble,' 
 Uriah Heep manner, and looked profoundly contrite. We were 
 deeply grieved, we said, for thus infringing their customs, but 
 we had done it for the purpose of getting a particular part of 
 the creature's entrails, which was necessary for the making up 
 of our medicine. They had to be further softened by a largesse 
 from our sadly -diminished stores, and then they consented to 
 let us go on." 
 
 On page 379 Thomson further says, concerning the Massais 
 of the region into which we were now going : " Certainly they 
 were rude to a degree I had not yet seen. They scrupled not to 
 stop us, by holding their spears at my breast, and demanding 
 beads. . . . The Massais were in very great numbers, and con- 
 tinued nasty to a degree that was maddening. They played 
 Avith us as a cat does with a mouse, and the ending would, with- 
 out doubt, have been the same, but for a certain hazy respect 
 and fear they had of me, as a phenomenon the power of which 
 it was not safe to rouse." (So Mr. Thomson imagined!) "I 
 had to sit continually on exhibition, ready to take their filthy 
 paws, pull out my teeth for their admiration, and spit upon 
 them, to show that I did not mean them any harm." 
 
 On page 381 he says: " I was plundered of almost every- 
 thing. The warriors were quarrelsome, and the slightest accident 
 at any moment might be the signal for a massacre. The Massais 
 in front ordered us not to come near them till they had discussed 
 all the pros and cons of my case. ... At last, after four days' 
 detention, we were rejoiced to hear that we might proceed." 
 
 Thomson also relates how one day a Massai took hold of 
 him by the nose to see if it were as loose as his teeth ; that 
 
'22-i XE]V LIGlir OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 another da}' the Massai warriors cut down his guards, and 
 Massai that he was then compelled, in addition, to pay 
 arrogance, ^j-ibute to the Massais because blood had been shed 
 on Massai soil. 
 
 Such had been the previous record, in the relations between 
 the white race and the arrogant Massai nation, which I was to 
 encounter on the following day. 
 
 For a long time it was believed that the Massais belonged 
 to the great Hamitic race in the north-east of Africa, and were 
 related to Somalis and Gallas. According to newer investiga- 
 tions, thev are said to belong to a Great Central African 
 
 Character „ " , • f i t^ tvt-i i ht 
 
 of the race, from the regions or the Upper JNile and iVlam- 
 bukuland. This point I must leave undecided. Like 
 Attila's Huns and other nomadic peoples, they have developed, 
 in the highest degree, a propensity for plunder and a thirst 
 for blood. The continual flesh diet on which they live has 
 physiologically increased their natural savageness, and the 
 brutalising of the feelings that must ensue with people who 
 are in the habit of slaughtering and devouring, in a cold-blooded 
 manner, the domestic animal they themselves have reared, 
 appears here in a very decided manner. A people of herdsmen, 
 where, the shepherd is not at the same time the butcher of the 
 cattle, will be able to develop the gentler feelings of the 
 heart, as we have often found them described in the Arcadian 
 songs. But where, through centuries of generations, the herds- 
 man has been also the slaughterer of his cattle, as is the case 
 Social with the Mongols on the elevated plains of Central 
 the*nomadic A-sia, and with the Massais on the elevated plains of 
 herdsman. Central Africa, there, by inheritance, an almost abso- 
 lute state of brutalisation must ensue. This law has always 
 explained why the herdsmen of the nomadic races have constantly 
 furnished the most savage phenomena in the world's history, as 
 we have seen them embodied in Europe, in personages like 
 Jhengis Khan and Attila. 
 
 In addition to this psychological law comes the fact, that 
 such races are prevented, by the peculiarity of their employ- 
 ment, from establishing themselves anywhere permanently. The 
 
CHARACTER OF THE MASSAIS. 225 
 
 possession of great herds necessitates a continual change of 
 domicile. While the agriculturist is obliged to remain on his 
 soil, to which his heart becomes attached, the nomad warUke 
 is indifferent to the charms of owning a home. Where omT^^''^^ 
 there is pasture for his cattle, where there is water for ^<>'^^^- 
 them to drink, thither he goes with his herds ; and the practice 
 he thus gets, from his youth up, makes him capable of under- 
 taking warlike expeditions across great tracts. Thus the 
 Massai has become the terror of the whole of East Africa, 
 Living in the elevated plains eastward of the lakes, Avhere 
 winter and summer, following each other not within the round 
 of twelve months, but within the space of twenty-four hours, 
 dwell together all the year round, where night has taken winter 
 for itself, while tropical heat rules by day, he is hardened to all 
 discomforts of climate. With hasty foot he traverses the 
 steppes to the rich lands of the Bantu in the south, 
 
 1 11 1 T-i'ipi Eeligious 
 
 and even to the places on the coast. Baithiul to the and moral 
 natural character of his kind, he has built up for him- ^ * "^' 
 self a religious belief, according to which only the Massais are 
 sons of the Deity, and as such have a natural right, con- 
 firmed by God, to all the cattle of the earth. Any man, not 
 being a Massai, found in possession of cattle is guilty of death, 
 and the Massai remorselessly murders not only the able-bodied 
 men, but the infant at the mother's breast, girls, and old women. 
 Slaves from other tribes he altogether despises. 
 
 But if all the conditions are present that tend to bring to 
 full development the wild and brutal qualities of the man, on 
 the other hand, among the Massais there may be recognised the 
 ennobling influence which is produced in every people by the 
 inherited consciousness of rule. Accustomed to see all around 
 them tremble at the name of Massai, the warriors of the race 
 have acquired a natural pride, which cannot be desig- Haughty 
 nated otherwise than as aristocratic. From the first the bear^gdV 
 Massais assumed towards me the deportment of young portment. 
 haughty noblemen. They recognise only one kind of work, 
 namely, war and the protection of the herds. All industrial 
 occupations, such as trading with passing caravans, the 
 
 13 
 
226 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 manufacture of weapons and implements, and the driving of the 
 herds, are undertaken by the Wandorobbo, a kind of Massai, 
 who live here intermingled with the warrior tribes. 
 
 The haughty and warlike spirit innate in the Massais is 
 considerably strengthened by the peculiar matrimonial institu- 
 tions, and by the constitutions of the race. Their form 
 
 Form of ' •' . , . , • i i i • i 
 
 govern- of government is the very ancient patriarchal one which 
 "^°*' we meet with in the Old Testament. The elders of the 
 families manage the great affairs of the tribe in their councils, 
 and represent the tribe abroad. The family and the tribe, into 
 Avhich it has developed, is self-contained with regard ■ to those 
 without ; consequently here, as everywhere under the same 
 conditions, the vendetta has developed itself in its purest form. 
 If a member of one tribe is murdered by a member of another, 
 retribution is exacted from the second tribe as such, whether 
 the vengeance strikes the murderer or another. 
 
 But the point that seems, above all others, peculiar to the 
 Massai community is the strict social separation of the married 
 The from the unmarried element. The unmarried Massai, 
 
 ai'^^^the called ElmorAn, is simply a warrior. He may live 
 Massais. only ou milk or flesh, at any rate only on animal 
 food, and, more than this, he may only take one of these at a 
 time. If he wishes to go from the milk to the meat diet, or the 
 reverse, he must begin by taking an emetic, so that the two 
 kinds may never meet in his stomach. This also is an arrange- 
 ment that has been hallowed by religious consecration. He is 
 likewise fond of sucking the blood from a live ox, a hole being 
 cut in the neck or the nape of the beast, out of which the 
 Massai warrior drinks the blood in full flow, afterwards stuffing 
 up the hole with grass. Vegetable diet is only permitted to the 
 married Massais and the women. The warrior considers it 
 effeminate. But amid the great plateaus, far from the borders 
 of any tribes who practise agriculture, this must be only a very 
 Milk diet, rare interruption of the daily milk diet. The milk is 
 generally eaten sour, in the form of curds, when it certainly 
 affords a very wholesome and palatable food. 
 
 On entering a Massai kraal, this precious beverage is seen 
 

 
 ^^' 
 
 ^ I 
 
THE EL2F0RAN, 2IASSAI WARRIORS. 227 
 
 in a number of gourds, standing against the walls in the houses, 
 that are built of clay and cow-dung. The milk is in various 
 stages of sourness, up to ten days old. 
 
 The Elmordn, the unmarried Massai warriors, live in villages 
 of their own ; with them are united, by free-love bonds, the 
 girls of the tribe, each of whom has a right to choose a 
 lover according to her fancy. This is a new incentive Eimoran 
 to the warlike rough spirit of the Elmordn ; for a girl ''"*s^'- 
 will choose the man who rushes into the battle with the greatest 
 fierceness and temerity, who kills the greatest number of 
 enemies, and brings home the largest booty in cattle. Thus 
 even the soft impulse of love impels the Massai warrior to his 
 marauding foray, and when he creeps along to the villages of 
 the Wasagura, or penetrates into the streets of Mombassa, he 
 has perhaps in his heart the image of some fair one of the 
 elevated plains under the Kenia, to whom he wishes to do 
 honour. 
 
 While the Massai warriors stride along absolutely naked, in 
 the right hand the broad handsome lance, on the left arm the 
 broad shield adorned with heraldic devices, which „ . 
 
 Equipment 
 
 covers almost the whole body, and perhaps a short fur, of the 
 embroidered with beads, thrown over the shoulder, and 
 falling to the hips, the girls are clad very decently in furs, 
 reaching up to the neck, as I have found customary among all 
 the proud and warlike tribes of north-eastern Africa. On the 
 other hand, the more slothful and effeminate tribes of the Bantu 
 in the north-east of the Victoria Nyanza, and the people in 
 Kawirondo, let their girls go nude. Soma! is, Gallas, and 
 Massais prefer keeping the charms of their fair ones for 
 themselves. 
 
 Widely different from this more poetical relation between 
 the sexes in the kraals of the Elmor4n is the actual marriage 
 state among the Massais. It is a mere matter of pur- jj^^^^j^^g 
 chase, which is managed by the father for the sdu, who among the 
 is not always much gratified to change the ireer liie oi 
 the Elmordn kraal, by a removal into the kraal of the old 
 married people. In contrast with the impulses of jealousy 
 
228 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 which characterise the relations of the Elmordn kraal, the 
 Massai in the married state is said to be exceedingl_y indiflferent 
 with respect to his wife's faithfulness. To have as many 
 children as possible, especially sons, in whatever way it may be, 
 is the chief object of the mature man, who altogether, as far 
 as the idea of possession was concerned, in his practical stolidity, 
 reminded me greatly of our peasants in the Lower German 
 marches 
 
 On December 21st, I was destined to make the acquaintance 
 of these remarkable tribes. On that day I had kept the course 
 of my expedition towards the north-north-west, in order tO' 
 approach, in some measure, the mountains that run from the 
 Naiwasha Lake northwards ; at the angle I hoped to come upon 
 A hunting the Guaso Narok. As I was pursuing my way, in 
 country, advauce of the column, with Hussein and two of my 
 servants, I came upon great herds of zebras, and with my gun 
 I brought down two. I left a servant behind with the slain 
 beasts, with orders for my column, when it came to the place, 
 that the zebras should be cut up, and their flesh carried into the 
 camp. I went on with Hussein only, to continue the search 
 for water, beside which to encamp. On the way Hussein 
 informed me that the Somalis did not care for zebras, and con- 
 sequently I promised him to shoot an antelope for the Somalis 
 and myself Towards eleven o'clock we came to a running 
 stream, which we afterwards ascertained to be the Gnare Gobit. 
 After some difficulty we succeeded in finding a place for cross- 
 ing ; Avhereupon I sent Rukua back to bring up the column. I 
 myself fastened a piece of paper to a tree for Herr von 
 
 Crossing y . . 
 
 the Gnare Tiedemauu, with a request to pitch the camp at this 
 spot, and then I continued my way in a northern 
 direction, to shoot the promised antelope for Hussein. The 
 Gnare Gobit is skirted throughout its whole course by a strip' 
 of high forest, which, however, does not extend beyond the 
 margin of land fertilised by the river. In this strip of forest, 
 by the ford of the river, the camp was to be set up ; and 
 through it we now strode on to look for antelopes. It may 
 be about three hundred feet broad on the left side. We had 
 
2IAKING ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE 2IASSAIS. 229 
 
 not yet passed through it, when on a clearing on the left 
 I suddenly saw great numbers of oxen. On an ac- Massai 
 clivity beyond the forest I also saw great herds. ^^''^^■ 
 
 I called Hussein's attention to this phenomenon, and he 
 immediately informed me, in his broken English, that he saw 
 " too much men." These could be none but Massais. I whistled 
 through my teeth, and thought we had better leave the antelope 
 hunting alone for that time. It would be more prudent, after 
 all, to go back to our camping-place, and wait there for the 
 advancing column. We had scarcely got once more to the tree 
 with the paper on it for Tiedemann, when all at once, cheer- 
 fully singing, " ho ! ho ! " from our side of the river, and 
 up stream and down stream on the opposite bank, in groups of 
 three and four, Massai warriors came pouring in upon First meet- 
 us. As we had established no kind of relations with^fg^j"' 
 these Massai tribes, I ordered Hussein to guard the warriors, 
 rear, and presented my gun at the group that was approaching. 
 I had laid my revolver on the ground beside me, to have it 
 ready at hand. The Massais, so soon as they saw my proceed- 
 ings, laid down their shields and spears, and thus unarmed came 
 in a friendly way towards me. I also laid down my rifle, and 
 the Massai warriors greeted me with an amiable "Wadsak," 
 after first, in token of their friendly sentiments, spitting at me 
 and likewise at Hussein Fara. To my questions they answered, 
 that I was in the territory of Elbejeto. In an instant we were 
 surrounded by twelve or fourteen young slender Massai warriors, 
 who immediately began to sing a monotonous song, aud to 
 dance round us in a row. 
 
 Gradually, to my great satisfaction, my column came up ; 
 first a few Somalis, who in general are not at all behind the 
 Massais in haughtiness, and were accordingly at once acknow- 
 ledged by them as equals, whereas no Massai condescended to 
 greet one of my porters. The Massais endeavoured to frighten 
 my people, by exhibiting to them the effect their lance thrusts 
 could produce, and also that of their poisoned arrows, a game of 
 I was very glad to see that my Somalis simply laughed '"^*^" 
 at it, while they retorted by trying, by pantomimic representa- 
 
230 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 tion, to give the Massais a notion of what our repeating guns 
 could do. 
 
 Suddenly some new Massai warriors came, with the request 
 that I should look out another place for my camp, as this 
 was the ford at which they were accustomed to water their 
 horned cattle. I informed the Massais that I did not feel 
 inclined to do this. "You can, however, drive your 
 of trouble cattle to the ford, although we are encamped here." 
 to come, ^fj-gj. g^ \oTig hesitation they gave way ; and so, on 
 that morning, everything went on in a friendly manner 
 enough. 
 
 I resumed my interrupted sporting excursion beyond the 
 
 forest, ordering four men of my following to go with me. On 
 
 stepping forth from the wooded enclosure, the traveller sees 
 
 before him a low hill, entirely covered with pasture grass, 
 
 Avhich runs parallel with the Gnare Gobit, and gradually 
 
 The.hief ^ i i 
 
 kraal of shelves away towards the south-west and north-east. 
 Eibejet. q^ ^j^^^ j^^^^ ^^^ ^1^^ south-west lies the chief kraal of 
 
 Elbejet, and in the northern slope the Elmordn kraal that 
 belongs to it. Further kraals are also situated on the right 
 bank of the Gnare Gobit, and towards the north all the heights 
 are occupied by such villages. 
 
 Some of these kraals consist only of huts of clay, standing 
 contiguous to one another in a circle, and open on the inner 
 side ; but others are surrounded outside the exterior walls of 
 these clay huts with a fence a yard thick and three or four 
 high, made of thorns and underwood, with gates leading through 
 Fortified it to the interior ; and, according to African circum- 
 ^^^^^^- stances, the place becomes absolutely impregnable if 
 well defended. The Massais, who on their foraging expeditions 
 always sleep out in the open, trusting only to their own vigil- 
 ance, have, in their own country, perhaps the best fences that are 
 to be found in all Africa ; and herein, again, is manifested the 
 practical warlike spirit of this nation. 
 
 On the declivities of the hill, by the Gnare Gobit, thousands 
 of oxen and sheep were grazing, guarded by ElmorAn warriors, 
 or by Wandorobbo. The Elmoran are armed only with lance 
 
INSOLENCE OF THE MAS8AIS. 231 
 
 and shield ; the Wandorobho and the older Massais with bows 
 and arrows. 
 
 Our appearance before the gates of Elbejet naturally pro- 
 duced a considerable sensation. From all directions warriors 
 came hurrying up to welcome us, and the Massai girls also 
 pressed forward, manifesting curiosity; and they, too, welcomed 
 us with a grasp of the hand. Unfortunately I shot Reception 
 twice at a vulture with my rifle, and missed each time ; ^* '^^^^i^^- 
 whereupon there arose contemptuous laughter, especially among 
 the old Massai women. The conceit of the Massai women, with 
 regard to their sons, beats anything one can ever meet with in 
 the way of unreasoning or monkeylike affection ; and they are 
 fond of showing this feeling as ostentatiously as possible, by 
 contemptuous behaviour towards other men. 
 
 When I returned into camp, towards two o'clock, I met 
 some bulls of the Massais that had turned wild ; and from 
 the right hand a few elders of the Massais came hastening 
 towards us. As one of the bulls was preparing for a hostile 
 attack upon us, I stretched him on the ground with a shot 
 from my rifle ; an incident which evidently impressed the 
 Massais in a very disagreeable manner. I then requested 
 the elders to follow me into my camp, to hold a conference 
 with me. "When we approached my quarters, I noticed large 
 numbers of the Massai warriors drawn up beneath a tree, 
 and about to regale us with a war song. I knew that the 
 sequel of this would be their demanding tribute fi-om me, 
 which I was resolved not to pay. Besides, I had very vividly 
 before my eyes the ill-treatment that Thomson had suffered 
 at this very place, and wished to clear up certain matters 
 between myself and the Massais without delay. Accord- 
 ingly I shot at a vulture on the tree under which p^^t^^ ^^ 
 the Massai warriors were seated ; and when a fat elder a toid 
 
 ... front. 
 
 came to me in front of my tent, whera I was sittmg m 
 an arm-chair, to forbid my shooting, I twice fired off" my rifle 
 over his head. Then I at once gave orders to my Somalis to 
 turn all the Massais out of the camp ; but I myself followed 
 them, and summoned them to a conference outside its precincts. 
 
'2:V2 yKw Liairr on dark afiiica. 
 
 As T could only speak a little of the Massai language in a 
 Eukuaas Iti'okcn liisliiou, the negotiati(tns had to be conducted 
 interpreter. I |||.^iii^l^ oue oi' the Kikuyu prisoners as interpreter, 
 for Rnkua, my servant, could in some degree make himself 
 
 />^^ 
 
 ^«*' 
 
 V\T\()-iED B\ 1 LLLS 
 
 understood by that 
 people. 
 
 I ])iop()st.d to the 
 elders of the j\Iass;iis ~ 
 that they should furnish 
 me ^\ith guide-, as tar as 
 the Baringo Lake, and 
 sell me a few donkeys. In 
 return, I would give them the only load of iron wire I possessec", 
 and also a few beads, of which ornaments I had a small bag 
 with me. We would mutually secure each other in our posses- 
 sions, and part as triends. 
 
STRAINED RELATIONS WITH THE NATIVES. 233 
 
 "You must know," I said, "that among white men also 
 there are diflferences. Five years ago, a white man came to you, 
 whose race differs from our race as much as, for instance, the 
 Wakikuyu differ from yours. The white man who was . . ,. 
 here was an Englishman (Inglese), and you treated speech to 
 him badly enough. But I belong to the race of the 
 Germans (Badutschi), and we would rather die than submit to 
 such treatment. If, therefore, you will not agree to all friendly 
 proposals, you have only to tell me so, and you can also have 
 war with us." The Massais thereupon caused it to be made 
 known to me that, in the first instance, I must pay tribute for 
 their young warriors, before they would consent to treat The 
 further with me. When I simply refused to do this, decidefor 
 they rose up suddenly, without a word of leave-taking, '^*''- 
 and the Kikuyu man told me that now we should have war. 
 
 I went into the camp to breakfast, and resolved to bring the 
 matter to an issue that very afternoon. I gave over the com- 
 mand of the camp to Herr von Tiedemann, and betook myself 
 with thirty men to the chief kraal of Elbejet, to make sure of 
 the intentions of the Massais. I posted my people in a half- 
 circle behind me, and stepped into the foreground with p^^ ^^^_ 
 Rukua and a Kikuyu interpreter, beckoning the elders tions aod 
 
 -_- . -. proposals. 
 
 of the Massais to come to me. I now waived my 
 demand that they should sell us donkeys, and asked only for a 
 guide to the Baringo, offering to pay for the accommodation. 
 The exasperation on the part of the Massais, who had restrained 
 themselves in the morning, was so great, that several of the 
 Elmordn came rushing onward with levelled lances to transfix 
 me. But I was glad to find that my people replied to this 
 demonstration with shouts of laughter. In fact, two or three 
 volleys would have been sufficient to lay low all the Massais 
 who were present. 
 
 While I thus negotiated with the Massais, an old Massai 
 woman came and stood next to us, breaking out into a ^,^^^^^66- 
 scornful laugh at every word I spoke. I had her put ^^^^^^ ^^ 
 aside by two of my Somalis, and came to an agreement 
 with the elders of the Massai that both sides should keep the 
 
234 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 peace, that the)' should next morning furnish me with a guide 
 to Baringo, for which service I was to pay, and that they were to 
 respect my property and I theirs. 
 
 IMy Kikuyu man had contributed greatly to the procuring of 
 this agreement. When he had tried to intimidate the Massais 
 by saying, " You cannot make war against the white man, he 
 comes from God. See ! he leads eleven of us Wakikuyu bound 
 with cords," — the Massais answered curtly and proudly, " But 
 we are not ^Yakikuyu, we are Massais." 
 
 After the treaty which I had concluded with them had been 
 sealed by the spitting ceremony, I went back to my camp, with 
 the feeling that, diplomatically, I had after all been beaten by 
 Insolent this arrogant Massai elder. My attempt to make head 
 onhr°^'^ against their last plans had failed when opposed to the 
 natives. pQJfj arrogance of this man, whose equal in imperturba- 
 bility could hardly be found, and who, quite at the close of the 
 conference, when he had concluded the treaty with me, ex- 
 pressed his contempt for my porters, who were sitting inside the 
 enclosure, by stepping up close in front of them, pointing at 
 them with a derisive gesture, and breaking out into a short 
 scornful laugh. 
 
 He may probably have scattered Zanzibar caravans often 
 enough. Firearms do not in themselves intimidate the Massais 
 at all. Even in the year 1887 they cut down, to the last man, 
 an Arab caravan numbering two thousand guns, laid all the 
 corpses in ranks and rows side by side, and in scorn put each 
 man's gun across his shoulder. Generally, in fact, the cara- 
 vans fire their guns once, and then immediately take to flight ; 
 Behaviour '^tisreupon they are regularly massacred to the last 
 of Zanzibar man by the swift-footed Massais. The Massai knows 
 
 caravans. -. . 
 
 how to protect himself from the first shot by throwing 
 himself on the ground, or sheltering himself behind a tree ; and 
 long before the muzzle-loader has been made ready for a second 
 discharge, he has come bounding up, to finish the matter with a 
 thrust of his lance. 
 
 In the evening I had four sentries posted round the camp, 
 and towards nine o'clock I betook myself to the margin of the 
 
THE 2IASSAIS BREAK THEIR CONTRAST. 235 
 
 wood, to send up blue and red rockets, as a token to the 
 Massais that we were on the alert. I heard the Precautions 
 turmoil and roaring of the Massais in both kraals. ^'"'^"P' 
 when I turned back to mj^ camp. 
 
 In the night, I was awakened several times by shots from my 
 sentries. When I enquired the reason, I was told that Massais 
 were prowling about the camp, and had just been attempting to 
 steal a load of cartridges from it. Already in this night the 
 thought came into my mind whether it would not be best to 
 attack Elbejet without hesitation. As yet our people had 
 beaten all who had stood against them ; but terror of a critical 
 the Massais was still alive in the majority of the position, 
 porters, and I knew very well that it was just the first result 
 that would here be decisive. I let the idea go, however, in the 
 hope that the Massais would next morning fulfil the obligation 
 they had taken upon themselves, of providing a guide for the 
 journey, and that I should be able to leave the whole disagree- 
 able state of things behind me by a rapid march. 
 
 When I rose next morning it was reported to me, in the 
 first place, that the promised guide had not come ; secondly, 
 that, in spite of all our vigilance, two loads of stuff had 
 been stolen out of the midst of the camp during the demon- 
 
 s til's. 1 10 US 
 
 previous night ; and, thirdly, that we had been pelted 
 
 with arrows. Quite a number of these arrows were exhibited to 
 
 me as a proof 
 
 My resolution was now taken. If the Massais had so little 
 respect for our agreement of the previous day, it was clear that 
 if, after the kind behaviour I had exhibited on Saturday, I left 
 this breach of the treaty unpunished, they would proceed to far 
 greater acts of aggression. It was one of the most critical 
 decisions of the expedition, and I asked Herr von Tiedemann 
 for his opinion. As he agreed with me, I gave him the order 
 to hold thirty -five men ready for action. Silently we Prepara- 
 strode onward through the forest, when suddenly all l^^ the 
 the Somalis fell on their knees at once, and began to "*='»"• 
 implore the protection of Allah from what we were now to 
 encounter. On reaching the border of the wood we formed a 
 
236 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 long line. I took the right wing, and gave the left to Herr von 
 Tiedemann,Avhile Hussein Fara led the centre. The black, white, 
 and red flag was carried by Rukua, who hurried on a few steps 
 in advance of the line. Thus we marched rapidl}?^ to the north, 
 directly upon the kraal. Between the kraal and ourselves were 
 a great number of cattle, and the man who kept them called out 
 to us in the most insolent tone to go round his herd, or we 
 should drive the beasts away. That we few men should intend 
 to attack Elbejet, the worthy fellow in his conceit never sup- 
 posed, until a bullet passed through his ribs, and permanently 
 silenced his insolent tongue. 
 
 On account of the cold in the morning the Massai are fond 
 of sleeping late, and consequently we completely surprised 
 Attack on Elbejet. Our fii'ing woke up the sleepers. On a 
 Elbejet. sudden, the men came rushing out of the gate against 
 us, while women and cattle ran down the declivity on the other 
 side in precipitate flight. I was opposed especially by the 
 elder with whom I had negotiated on the previous day, and by 
 his following. They tried to defend the entrance into the kraal. 
 Three of the elder's arrows flew past me ; and, for my part, I 
 also missed my mark twice. My third bullet crashed through 
 his temples. And now the Massais poured down the opposite 
 declivity in headlong flight. We succeeded in this first fight 
 in killing seven of them in all, and, so fai', we had not yet 
 suffered a single casualty. 
 
 I was now master of Elbejet, the dominant position of this 
 whole region, and had also a herd of cattle numbering more 
 Design *^^^ *^° thousaud in my possession. I now determined 
 to hold to send back a part of my company to the camping- 
 place by the river, and at once to bring up all my 
 column to this capital position. This resolve, though un- 
 doubtedly judicious in itself, could not be carried into execu- 
 tion, because suddenly the rattling of musketry sounded from 
 the camp, and I saw that great bands of Massais were rushing 
 Back to the towards it from all sides. If the camp should be taken 
 camp. |jy ^j^g Massais, and our ammunition thus fall into their 
 hands, we were all of us lost. Therefore, back to the camp 
 
.lA"^ 
 
A DANGEROUS MARCH. 237 
 
 at full speed to guard it. For my part, I had shot away all my 
 cartridges, and was obliged to hasten to my loads of ammu- 
 nition. The trumpet gave the signal for a retreat, which 
 was accordingly commenced by us in perfect order. For all 
 that, in the course of it, three of my jjeople were laid low by the 
 Massais, Nogola, the Mangema elder, being one of them. 
 
 On arriving in the camp I at once had ammunition served 
 out — to the Somalis as many cartridges as each of them was 
 able to carry ; for myself seventy -five cartridges, fifty of which 
 I entrusted to Rukua. In an instant the tents were down, and 
 the order was given to march out of the wood towards ne order 
 the right. I went on in advance with Musa Somal, Alo "^ ™*'^oi^- 
 Agal, and my two servants, Rukua and Buana Mku, to decide 
 upon the road for the column. The great herds, the camels, 
 the donkeys, and women, were placed in the centre, and Herr 
 von Tiedemann, with another detachment of Somalis, brought 
 up the rear. 
 
 We had been marching only three minutes through the 
 forest, some thirty yards in advance of the column, when Alo 
 Agal suddenly reported, "Mimanka brenjehei!" (Many men!) 
 And there they were coming on, the proud Elmoran of the 
 Massais, like a great pack of wolves, in hundreds, pass- ^^^^^^ 
 ing tree by tree to get at us. Alo had scarcely made by the 
 
 , . n . n ,n 1 1 • 1 ■ 1 Elmoran. 
 
 his report to me, when he fell dead at my side, pierced 
 by an arrow. Rukua and Buana Mku, as soon as they saw 
 what was coming upon us, were seized with a panic, and fled 
 precipitately towards the column. I knew perfectly well that if 
 I did the same the Massais would come thronging after us with 
 their battle-cry, and we should be defeated and overthrown 
 in an instant. Consequently I made up my mind to take up 
 the gauntlet there and then ; and it was fully clear to me that 
 now every bullet must find its billet, if this day was not to 
 bring the end of things for me, and perhaps for the German 
 Emin Pasha Expedition also. 
 
 Then a very singular combat occurred here in the river 
 forest of the Gnare Gobit. From tree to tree the Massais 
 advanced, but always with caution, to cover themselves from 
 
238 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the bullets. I ma)^ say truly, that for the next few minutes I 
 A running g^ve up my life and all of us for lost ; nevertheless, 
 flgit- on noticing the perfect skill of their method of attack, 
 I could not suppress a kind of admiration of my opponents, 
 whom, at the same time, I mortally hated. Several times I 
 succeeded in knocking over two of the foremost Massais with 
 a double shot ; whereat the others were startled, and left me 
 time to load again. But it was especially Musa's repeating gun 
 that had quite a remarkable effect upon them. With the muzzle- 
 loaders they had already made acquaintance, but the system of 
 the repeaters must have appeared to them supernatural, and 
 therefore uncanny. Meanwhile I was calling for Hussein ; and 
 after five minutes of the most painful anxiety I was joyfully 
 surprised at seeing my people at last hastening up from behind 
 1 f to the rescue. A Massai, who was just preparing to 
 reinforce- thrust at me, was first laid low by a bullet in the 
 face from our kitchen-boy Fargalla ; and now, with a 
 hurrah, I advanced upon the Massais. At first they stood firm, 
 but gradually they gave ground ; and after half an hour of 
 fighting we reached the margin of the wood, from which the 
 Massais, with their faces still turned towards us, slowly re- 
 treated towards Elbejet, drawing off on each side. 
 
 By this time the rear column, with Herr von Tiedemann, had 
 also been attacked, and the rattle of musketry at times increased 
 to an extent that was somewhat alarming for me. Herr von 
 Tiedemann got into imminent danger of his life, by the sudden 
 Herr von ^^^1^^'^ ^^ the mcchauism of his repeating rifle, while 
 Tiedemann the Massais Were likewise pressing in upon him. But 
 the intervention of the porters — the preliminary fight 
 having allowed the time necessary for bringing them into line- 
 very soon decided the affair on this side also ; and now I pressed 
 forward more and more upon Elbejet, driving away the Massais 
 right and left, until I had two-thirds of the hill in my power. 
 
 The command, " Misigo miote embele ! " (" All loads to the 
 „. ^ front ! "), which I called into the wood, was a welcome 
 
 Victory. . ^' ' ^ 
 
 signal to Herr von Tiedemann that the affair in the front 
 had been decided in our favoiu* ; and presently there appeared, 
 
BURNING OF TEE ELBEJET. 239 
 
 on the margin of the forest, first my camels, then the goat- 
 herds, and, lastly, all the porters with their loads. These 
 loads I caused to be laid down, two-thirds of the way up the 
 hill, and drew up the people for the second attack on Elbejet 
 itself. 
 
 At first we moved cautiously towards one of the gates, in 
 front of which we took up our position ; and then we moved 
 round the kraal to the other gates. As we slowly ap- 
 
 1, J ii_ i 111 J r Second 
 
 proacned the entrance to the kraal we became aware, attack on 
 to our satisfaction, that Elbejet was abandoned. At ^^''^•'^*' 
 the second attack we had also discovered our two loads, that 
 had been stolen the previous night. Now I gave orders to have 
 Elbejet plundered, and set on fire at eight corners. 
 
 There were howls and roars of rage when the Massais, who 
 were concealed by thousands in the thicket round the hill, 
 beheld what we intended to do, and saw that what they had 
 been accustomed to inflict upon others was now for once 
 happening to themselves, in their own country. 
 
 What time the Advent bells were calling to church in 
 Germany, the flames were crackling over the great kraal on all 
 sides, and mounting towards the heavens. "We felt a Burning of 
 short glow of triumph ; which was, however, very soon ^^^ ^'^**^- 
 removed by the thought of what had now to be done. 
 
 At the side where I had fought, we found forty- three Massai 
 corpses, all killed by bullets in front. But the loss of the 
 Massais must certainly have amounted to three times that 
 number, as the fighting had been just as hot in the rear as in 
 front, and the enemy had in most cases been able to carry off 
 their fallen fellow-tribesmen. As those who had fallen on our 
 side, seven in number, had been mutilated in a shameful 
 manner, we made reprisals, for our people cut the heads off the 
 .^lassai corpses, and hurled them high through the air, and 
 down among their fellow-countrymen by the hill below. 
 
 But we had lost seven men in the fight ; a loss which was 
 sufficiently grave, considering our scanty numbers. But much 
 more serious was the fact of which I became aware while the 
 flames of Elbejet were soaring up, namely, that the Somalis 
 
240 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 had shot off nine hundred cartridges from their repeating guns, 
 and that consequently I had only six hundred cartridges left. 
 Serious ex- ^^6 porters, too, had fired away quite inordinate quan- 
 penditure ^j^-j^.^ gf ammunition. In fact, I could have exclaimed 
 
 of ammuni- . 
 
 tion. flith Pyrrhus, " One more such victory, and 1 am 
 
 lost ! " For I was not even in a position to go through with 
 a second fight like the one I had just waged. The Massais had 
 only to keep on attacking us, and they would with mathematical 
 certainty hunt us to death. 
 
 Added to this, I Avas entirely without guides for the road, and 
 in a hostile country where we could not expect to receive any 
 information as to the whereabouts of water. 
 
 It was eleven in the forenoon. My column was to the last 
 degree exhausted. Some of the people had also been wounded 
 with arrows. I had a great mind to encamp up on the 
 of proceed- hill for the rest of the day. On the other side of it the 
 '"^' Elmordn kraal was still standing, into which I could 
 
 throw my column. But in that case I should probably have 
 had to fight my way anew to water, and, beyond this, I should 
 be exposed to the far greater danger of the Massais drawing re- 
 inforcements from the neighbouring district of Lashau, so that 
 on the next morning we should have a much more perilous 
 battle to fight out than we had fought to-day. In such a 
 position as mine, thoughts of retreat will flash for a moment 
 through a man's brain. How if I marched back to Kikuyu, 
 and from thence undertook an advance in some fresh direction ? 
 The sweet peace of the evenings lately passed came with 
 seductive power before my soul. 
 
 I rejected both the ideas that occurred to me, and at half- 
 past eleven gave orders for marching onward in a course 
 Orders for towards the north-east. There I might hope to find a 
 ^"^ ^*'*"°®- water-course, either the Gnare Gobit or the Guaso 
 Xyiro. But the chief thing was, that I should thus get out of 
 the centre of the infuriated Gallas, and might hope, by making 
 a circuit, to avoid their whole territory. 
 
 Forward, therefore ! The great herds in the centre, all loads 
 l^acked, I set the column in motion along the hill. On the 
 
"THE 2IASSAIS AGAIN DEFEATED." 241 
 
 opposite side I first had the Elmordn kraal set on fire, and then 
 marched in slow time down by the north-east slope of the hill. 
 Not a single nail of all our property was left as a prize ^^^ ^.^^^ 
 to the Massais ; not one head of all the cattle we had ran kraai 
 taken was left behind. The Massais, who did not at 
 first understand our movements, presently set out on the 
 march behind us, at a convenient distance. But the bullets 
 that we sent towards them from time to time, from my double 
 barrel and from Tiedemann's repeater, kept them far from the 
 column. 
 
 Towards three in the afternoon I succeeded in finding an 
 approach to the river, by which I could water my thirsty 
 caravan, men and animals. Northward of this place I saw a 
 hill above the river that commanded the surrounding region, 
 and here I would pitch my camp. I made towards it with my 
 advanced guard, and found that it was occupied by many 
 hundred Massais. My nerves were so relaxed, and the The Massais 
 occurrences of the previous night and of the present ^Jeir pj^i™ 
 morning had made us so indifferent to danger, that, *""• 
 without waiting for the main column, I marched forward towards 
 the hill with the few men I had with me, and fired into the 
 Somalis. And the defeat of that morning had made such an 
 impression upon these people, that they rushed from the place 
 in wild flight, and crossed over to the right bank of the Guaso 
 Nyiro. 
 
 Above, I found an enclosure for cattle. I at once had 
 twelve sentries posted round about the hill to watch the 
 Massais, who occupied the heights around, had the tents pitched, 
 and established my column comfortably. Each man received 
 permission to kill as many beasts as he liked, and then ^jg^stfor 
 a terrible slaughter began among the oxen and sheep, the black 
 The digestive powers of a negro are of a magnitude of 
 which we in Europe can hardly form a conception. If he has 
 one sheep he eats it up ; if several are given to him he makes 
 them disappear in the same manner. 
 
 Towards evening I betook myself, with some of my soldiers, 
 to a ford below the hill by the river, and had great quantities 
 
 16 
 
i!42 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of water carried up for the column for cooking purposes. Not 
 a Massai was to be seen. 
 
 Our frame of mind was a very grave, but by no means an 
 unhappy one. Herr von Tiedemann wrote a conclusion to his 
 journal on that day, because he thought we should not outlive 
 the night. I also was of opinion that the Massais would attempt 
 an attack in force during the night, and consequently kept the 
 half of the column commanded by Herr von Tiedemann 
 
 Precautions '^ 
 
 against Under arms until midnight, and the other half, which I 
 surprise, commanded, watchedfrom midnight until morning. I 
 had outposts pushed far forward, which were visited continually, 
 and watchfires were lighted as far down the slopes of the hill as 
 possible. 
 
 The night was pitch dark. Showers of rain fell at intervals. 
 I also caused rockets to be thrown up, to show the Massais that 
 An anxious we Were ou guard. The noise of these rockets unfor- 
 "'^^*' tunately scared away a part of our herd, on which we 
 never set eyes again. 
 
 In all these troubles the only comfort was resignation to the 
 unalterable decrees of Providence, and the conviction, that what- 
 ever might happen I had no need to give the hated foe the 
 satisfaction of having themselves given me my death. In such 
 a case I considered I should be fully justified in reserving my 
 last revolver bullet for myself 
 
 Before daybreak I marched away in a northerly direction. 
 Whatever we could not carry off with us of the Massai furniture 
 March ^® ^^^ Captured I had broken to pieces, so that it 
 along the should uot fall again into the hands of the enemy. The 
 whole morning we skirted the margin of the river in a 
 north-west direction. Not a Massai showed himself. The bound- 
 less steppe seemed dead, as it had appeared two days before. 
 
 After a march of seven hours, necessarily slow, as the 
 herds of cattle had to be kept to right and left of the column, 
 we came to a bend in the river, where it turns suddenly towards 
 the west. . Here I found a ford, on which I made the whole 
 column cross to the right shore, and then again set up my camp 
 in a Massai kraal on the hill, on the opposite bank. 
 
PERILS AND TROUBLES ;— THE ECLIPSE. 243 
 
 Could it be that the Massais were giving up the notion of 
 taking revenge for their defeat of the previous day ? j, b f i 
 We tried to persuade ourselves to nourish this hope ; tactics of 
 and for a little distraction from our cares Herr von 
 Tiedemann and I, after breakfasting, sat down in my tent to a 
 game of ecarte. 
 
 Towards five o'clock my servant came into the tent to re- 
 port, " Massai wanakuga ! " (" The Massais are coming ! ") We 
 went out to the entrance of the tent, and, sure enough, there 
 they were, advancing across the chains of hills that lay by the 
 shore ; marching on silently, in columns, ever from east to 
 west. A troop came close up to the other margin of An attempt- 
 the river, and established itself under a tree on the meat frus- 
 shore, exactly opposite our camp. I called for my t"^^'***- 
 rifle, and shot across, hitting one fellow in the leg, whereupon 
 the whole column incontinently decamped. 
 
 I had now made up my mind for the last and decisive 
 combat. If the Massais attacked again, after their defeat of the 
 previous day, I could only assume that all this was done in the 
 full determination to destroy our column at any cost. That 
 was only to be effected by simply rushing upon us regardless of 
 the number slain on their side, and thrusting us to death with 
 their lances. 
 
 Then, suddenly, a thing happened such as I had until then 
 been accustomed to read of only in romantic pictures of travel. 
 At about five minutes past twelve the sun all at once began to 
 be darkened. At first we did not ourselves know the meaning 
 of this, but very soon saw that a total eclipse of the An oppor- 
 sun was commencing its course. More and more ecupse of 
 deeply did the gloom spread over the wide desert land- ^'^^ '^°- 
 scape, out of which the Kenia and the Subugu la Poron yet 
 reared their heads threateningly aloft. As though the earth 
 would throw itself once more into that chaos and old night 
 whence it issued forth, so lay the lofty plateau of Leikipia 
 before our gazing eyes. The shudder of the infinite crept even 
 into our hearts, lifting them above the present, and the cares 
 that were before us. My own people were seized with terror at 
 
244 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 this sign from the Godhead which was being displayed in the 
 heavens. So much does each individual feel as if he were in 
 the centre of the created world, that he associates even the 
 great phenomena of nature with his petty destiny. 
 
 The Massais, w^hom I had allowed, two days before, to enter- 
 tain the belief that I was commissioned by their Engai, believed, 
 as I heard a few days later, that in this appearance in the sky 
 they beheld a great stroke of magic of my effecting. Or 
 perhaps they thought that there was in the eclipse of 
 the phe- the suu a warning from their god to themselves. Cer- 
 on the tain it is, that when the sun illumined the landscape 
 assais. ^j^pg more, we saw them marching away westward, in 
 separate bodies, silently, as they had come ; and there was no 
 attack made upon us that evening. Only a single outpost was 
 established on the hill beyond the river. The Massais set fire 
 to one of their own kraals, probably to warm themselves, and 
 as I assumed, to keep us awake. In the evening my servants 
 waited at supper, each with his rifle on his shoulder, as we sat 
 On the at table, and I was again compelled to keep half the 
 alert. column under arms through the night. Real sleep 
 was, of course, not to be thought of. 
 
 Next morning I searched the valleys by the river for hostile 
 spies, and I succeeded in starting a few on the opposite bank. 
 I shot at these fellows, but without hitting one of them. 
 
 At six o'clock I started on the march, with the conviction 
 that the Massais were certainly on the right road to annihilate 
 us. They had only to keep us constantly awake, so as to 
 Fabian Scatter our nervous power, and to attack us from time 
 tactics to time, that we might shoot away our cartridges, and 
 
 possible. T 111 . 
 
 there could be no question but that we should fall 
 victims to them at last. 
 
 It was December 24th, a day on which we are accustomed 
 in Germany to light up the Christmas tree. On this day we 
 March of "^^^'^hed until one o'clock in the afternoon, always in 
 r^c^mber a north-west direction. On the march a number of 
 
 sheep and goats dropped down, and I had them killed, 
 for I would not let them fall alive into the hands of the 
 
JfERRY CHRISTMAS. 245 
 
 Massais. My attention was kept on the alert the whole of this 
 morning by Massais, who continually marched in a parallel 
 line with our expedition on the opposite bank of the river. I 
 shot across several times, but uselessly, for the distance was 
 too great. 
 
 At one o'clock I had the camp pitched once more upon a 
 hill that commanded a view of all the surrounding country, on 
 the right bank of the Guaso Nyiro. I distributed a load of 
 powder among the bearers, and kept them casting bullets the 
 whole afternoon. I also completed the supplies of repeating 
 gun cartridges carried by the Somalis, so that each 
 
 11- • . -, . . Preparing 
 
 man had again sixty cartridges m his bag. Then I ammunj- 
 gave each of my bearers a piece of red cloth, as a head ^^°^' 
 covering, from the flag stuffs we had brought with us, to make 
 their outward appearance more warlike, and to imbue them 
 additionally with the feeling of the soldier. 
 
 Thus the state of feeling in the camp was one of consider- 
 able liveliness, and the cheerfulness was increased when, shortly 
 before three o'clock, I succeeded in bringing down, with a good 
 shot at eight hundred yards, the leader of the seven Massais, 
 who had also halted on the further shore opposite to us. 
 
 The Guaso Nyiro flows round the hill on which we lay, in 
 almost an exact half-circle. That evening I established eight 
 outposts round the camp, and again had fires kindled in advance 
 of these. 
 
 At six o'clock we were at supper, and something like a 
 Christmas feeling came into our hearts. I asked Herr von 
 Tiedemann to keep watch for a few hours, and to wake j^^igt^rbg^ 
 me a little before midnight. I wanted to celebrate Christmas 
 Christmas Eve by stretching myself on my camp bed 
 as early as half-past seven, though fully dressed, and endeavour- 
 ing to get a few hours' sleep. 
 
 At ten o'clock I was awakened by a shot, which was fol- 
 lowed by a whole volley. Directly afterwards I heard from the 
 south-south-east the hyena-like battle-howl of the Massais. 
 
 The Massais had advanced from the north, along the course 
 of the river, and thought to surprise our camp from the south. 
 
246 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 They had come upon Daud Wais, who kept watch here, and he 
 had at once knocked one of them over, by which means the 
 Somalis had been alarmed. I came out of my tent, and, to 
 An impend- encourage my men, called out to the Massais, " Ka- 
 ing attack. y.[]y^^ Elmordu, mutakufa wiote!" ("Come on, Elmordn, 
 you shall all die ! " ) 
 
 I at once had everything in the way of camp-fires extin- 
 guished, gave over to Herr von Tiedemann the command on 
 the river side where we were not attacked, and myself turned 
 to the further side, where the Massais were howling. I had 
 everything we possessed in the way of chests and loads pushed 
 forward, and ordered my people to lie down behind this rampart, 
 to shelter themselves from the hail of arrows from without. 
 Plan of Till this was done they were to keep up a partial fire 
 operations, ^f yoUeys upou the Massais, to frighten them from 
 attempting to storm our camp. Then I had rockets brought, 
 and one rocket after another flew hissing up into the black sky 
 of night, giving just enough light to enable our best shots to 
 pick out their mark among the threatening figures. A fantastic 
 picture, which could not fail of its effect upon sensitive nerves. 
 My people set up a rhythmical song, always ending with the 
 burden, " Kupkndu, Kupkndu Scharro ! " 
 
 This night was indeed a whimsical illustration of the biblical 
 text, " Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good- 
 will toward men ! " The crackling of the rockets, the roaring 
 of my own people, and the banging of the shots, together made 
 a din that truly appeared more consonant with the Walpurgis 
 night of the First of May than with the solemn seriousness of 
 the celebration of the birthday of Christ. 
 
 Till one o'clock did the din continue. Then we heard the 
 roaring of the retreating Massais gradually dying away in the 
 south. On our side only one man had been wounded, a porter 
 Eesuits of of the name of Boma ; he had been shot through 
 the fight, ^jjg ^j.jjj jjy ^]^g Somalis, in the line of whose fire he 
 had foolishly placed himself. The Massais had had greater 
 losses, as was proved next morning by numerous pools of blood 
 and various shields that had been left behind. 
 
THE GUASO NYIRO PLATEAUS. 247 
 
 ThuS' the surprise had failed ; but our situation next morn- 
 ing was more gloomy than on the previous day. The Massais 
 had it in their power to attack when they would. If they were 
 beaten, the situation remained for them unaltered. But continued 
 if we were only once beaten we were all of us lost. **''&«'^- 
 Added to this was the fact that for four nights I had been with- 
 out real sleep. 
 
 Towards sunrise I started once more with my exhausted 
 column. I marched onward, for an hour, along the right bank 
 of the Guaso Nyiro, which I then crossed by a ford. I wished 
 on that day to try and make an advance in a more westerly 
 direction across the steppe, as I could not know at all whither 
 the Guaso Nyiro would lead me. 
 
 "We were now away from the districts that are touched by 
 the winds which sweep down from the Kenia. We came into 
 completely dried-up plateaus, which had been burnt by the 
 Massais only a short time before. The plains which south- 
 ward of the Leikipia appear slightly undulating, here exhibit 
 themselves in a more massive and compact form. ^ ^ 
 
 r Features 
 
 They are real border plateaus, of which the one that of the 
 is placed higher always leans steeply towards the lower 
 one, forming to a certain extent a fringe. In the north, pecu- 
 liarly-formed groups of stone are found on these plains, and give 
 the landscape a strange and remarkable appearance. 
 
 The wind, whistling in a ghostly manner from the north 
 over the dreary steppe, whirled up columns of ashes, that went 
 sweeping across the plain, visible from afar like forms from 
 the shades below. The north wind droned or rather sighed 
 through the half-burnt flute trees, in melancholy fashion, a 
 spectral tune to the procession of these phantoms of ashes. 
 
 A feeling of infinite desolation and solitariness fell upon 
 our hearts, when, on the left bank of the Guaso Nyiro, we 
 had climbed to these plateaus. The black expanse seemed to 
 stretch out to infinity. Nowhere a river course or a M-ater 
 pool to be seen. Here and there on the horizon forms of 
 Massais emerged, to disappear again so soon as I fired my 
 far-carrying double-barrelled rifle at them. 
 
1!48 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 So Ave went onward continually in a north-west direction, 
 till the sun shone perpendicularly down. Then suddenly fresh 
 green shone before us, and there was a decided declination in 
 the plateau. Could it be that we had a stream of 
 concerning Water before us ? Alas, no ! An anxious and accurate 
 ■water. investigation brought the certainty that the declivity 
 was dry, and there seemed to be no water far and wide. 
 
 Nature confronts us here in all her bitter cruelty ; and thus 
 brought face to face with iron necessity, to hold-discourse only with 
 inexorable fate, the soul is ready to sink into despair. If there is 
 no water here, we all run the risk of dying of thirst on our further 
 advance. Therefore, " Back to the river ! " was the command. 
 And from our north-west course we deviated towards the east. 
 
 We marched on for two hours more. Then all at once we 
 saw the Guaso Nyiro again before us. At least for this after- 
 noon we have water ! 
 
 Suddenly Rukua reports, "Massai Tele!" ("Many 
 Massais ! ") True enough, all the hills are covered with figures! 
 Then there must be more fightins;. 
 
 Beappear- ~ ~ 
 
 anceof the I say, " Then we will beat the Massais here ! " But 
 Rukua drew my attention to an enclosure by the river, 
 into which we could drive our herds, and where we should have 
 better prospects for the fight. 
 
 Forward then ! In with the herds into the enclosure, which 
 is at once shut. " Bunduke teare ? " (" The guns ready .?•") I 
 cry to my people. " Teare," is the reply of all. 
 
 So we wait for the decisive combat, perhaps with a secret 
 M'ish that it may put a period to our troubles. 
 
 But not a Massai appears. Suddenly an old Massai woman 
 approaches, waving the bunch of grass. 
 
 "What is that?" I say. 
 
 " The Massais want peace," the Wakikuyu tell me in reply. 
 
 Perhaps I never approached a lady with greater eagerness 
 Pacific over- than I now displayed, with an expenditure of all my 
 tures. gallantry, towards this repulsive-looking old Massai 
 woman. I also caught up a bunch of grass, and took care that 
 there should be a flower among it. I came forward as grace- 
 
THE ^^AfiSAIii IXriTE A PARLEY. 
 
 249 
 
 I'uUy as possible towards the lady, and seized her by the hand, 
 to induce her to seat herself beside me. 
 
 
 
 
 Peace Proposals proii the Massais. 
 
 The confabulation was soon in progress. I heard that the 
 Massais wished to have peace with me, provided I would refrain 
 from burning any more of their villages, sliooting at them, or 
 carrying off their herds. 
 
250 .VEir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I replied to the Massai woman that I was quite ready to 
 promise this, if the Massais would furnish me with guides to the 
 Dialogue Baringo. " But," said I, " whither does this river run 
 MaLl am- heside which we are now ? " 
 
 bassadress. gj^g indicated that the Guaso Nyiro, in the first 
 instance, flowed on to the north, but that northward of the 
 Endika Mountains it turned towards the east. 
 
 " How far is the Guaso Narok from here ? " 
 
 " About a day and a half, if you follow the Guaso Nyiro ; 
 one day, if you march across to the Guaso Narok." 
 
 " And where does the Guaso Narok come from ? " 
 
 She pointed in the direction towards the Baringo. 
 
 " How far is the Baringo lake from here ? " 
 
 " Five days, if you march well." 
 
 " Do Massais live there, too ? " 
 
 "The Massais live everywhere," she answered. 
 
 " Surely it is not the custom with you for women to decide 
 concerning peace and war ? If the Massais wish to have peace 
 with me, let them send to me men of their tribe, to whom I 
 can give presents, and with whom we will conclude the treaty 
 of peace in due form." 
 
 She promised that towards evening eleven men of the 
 Massais should come to me into the camp ; and so went away, 
 with a ring on her finger that I had put there, and with the 
 flowers in her hand, to carry the message of peace to her 
 tribe. 
 
 At the dinner which now followed, I took the oppor- 
 Arthur tuuity of delivering a short address to Herr von 
 hauer'T" Tiedemauu on Arthur Schopenhauer's negativity of 
 philosophy, ^-j^g perception of pleasure. After all, it seemed that 
 the Christmas message was to find its fulfilment with us. 
 A costlier Christmas present even Europe could not have 
 offered us. 
 
 Unfortunately, on this day, for the first time, the early 
 symptoms appeared in Herr von Tiedemann of a serious disease, 
 dysentery, by which he was attacked two days later. 
 
 I have forgotten to mention that since our departure from 
 
A CONFERENCE, AND A TREATY. 251 
 
 Kikuyu we had no longer vegetable food, but had to confine 
 ourselves entirely to a flesh diet. To this were added the cold 
 nights and the exciting incidents ; the result being that several 
 cases of illness occurred among my people. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening eleven Massais appeared, but 
 did not venture to come into our camp. I did not feel inclined 
 to expose myself unarmed to their lances, as I knew well enough 
 the malignity of these fellows. So I took a few people with me 
 armed with rifles, which were laid down in a demonstrative 
 manner, while I requested the Massais to do the same on their 
 side, and to meet me at a spot half way between the a treaty of 
 two piles of weapons. This was done, and conditions p®*"*' 
 of peace were at once settled by both sides on the basis of the 
 agreement of the afternoon, and ratified by the men mutually 
 spitting at each other three times. I then gave a finger ring 
 and a few beads to each of the Massais, and in token that our 
 tribe and theirs would live in friendship and peace together I 
 killed one of the sheep I had myself taken from the Massais, and 
 gave it to them. They asked permission to sleep that night in 
 the camp ; but this I cautiously declined, telling them it 
 would be better if they slept some distance away. If they came 
 to the camp at night, my sentries had orders to fire at ^^^^^^^^ g^, 
 them. I was the more cautious, iust because we had eluded from 
 
 '' . -f the camp. 
 
 made peace, and instead of the usual eight outposts 1 
 doubled them that night. I also remained, the greater part of 
 the night, sitting on my chair, in front of my tent, in the open 
 air ; on such occasions I was accustomed to make astronomical 
 observations with Hussein Fara. 
 
 Next morning the Massais duly made their appearance, 
 ostensibly to fulfil the part they had undertaken of the contract, 
 by leading us to the Baringo. The negotiations with them 
 continued to be conducted by a very worthy young our Kikuyu 
 Kikuyu man, who looked so strikingly like old Vol- " 
 taire, that I had bestowed upon him that name, which at once 
 became popular with my expedition and among the Massais. 
 
 The Kikuyu people began to feel very comfortable with the 
 column. First of all, it had been a matter of great rejoicing to 
 
2.32 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 them to see their deadly enemies, the haughty Massais, so 
 
 thoroughly beaten. Then they feasted to their hearts' content 
 
 on the number of sheep and goats I caused to be given to them. 
 
 Thev do not slaughter these creatures, but strangle 
 
 TheKikuyu •' , n? n t i i • • xi xi i 
 
 mode of kiii-them, SO that all the blood remams in the flesh, 
 mg cattle, gig^^^gj^^gj-gfj j^g^t ^g j^gt as detestable to them as 
 
 strangled beasts would be to us. The sight of one of them 
 holding a sheep or a goat by the throat, and choking it to death, 
 always struck me as something completely disgusting. 
 
 Quitting the river, we now again ascended the elevated 
 plateau to the left, on which we moved forward, still keeping a 
 north-west direction. Soon, there came in sight to the west- 
 west-north-west the long ranges which, the Massais informed us, 
 Avere called the Subugu la Baringo (Subugu signifying a fringe 
 of mountains). That, therefore, must be the Dongo 
 
 The Dbngo ^ ^ 
 
 Geiesha Gelesha. On the plateau we found great herds of 
 *"^*" Massai cattle, and for the sake of peace and quietness 
 I willingly consented to halt until the Massais had driven these 
 away from our, to them, unwelcome vicinity. When this had 
 been done, young Massai warriors hastened up to us to greet 
 us with the usual salutations of " Sotua " (friend). All this 
 had a very pleasant appearance. 
 
 Towards noon we descended from the plateau, to the right, 
 to a dry river-bed, and came upon an entirely black volcanic 
 region. The name Guaso Narok signifies in the Massai lan- 
 guage Black River, because it flows over black stones ; for me, 
 therefore, this dark ground was a satisfactory sign that we were 
 The'Teiekii'eally approaching the river. A dark, high-towering 
 Rock. • volcanic group of rocks, that we left on our right between 
 the afiiuence of the Guaso Narok and the Guaso Nyiro, I called 
 the " Teleki Rock," after my forerunner on the Guaso Nyiro 
 territory. 
 
 The heat upon the black stones began to be disagreeable. 
 We now came upon a broad sheep track. The Massais informed 
 me that I had only to follow this track, and I should reach the 
 Guaso Narok in an hour. In the meantime, they said, they 
 Avould go to their houses to get provisions. So I went on with 
 
?^i«a; 
 
THE MASSAIS RELAPSE. 253 
 
 Hussein and Rukua, in front of the column, in search of the 
 Guaso Narok. 
 
 The behaviour of the native population entirely changed in 
 these mid-day hours, inasmuch as all we saw hurried 
 away from us in an altogether inexplicable flight. All in nativT 
 this was very suspicious. behaviour. 
 
 Towards two o'clock I found eight donkeys and a loaded ox. 
 They had been abandoned by their masters, and were carrying 
 household implements and milk. Following up the ox spoor, I 
 came into a narrow valley. By this time it was three The narrow 
 o'clock, and the affair began to be very serious, i^aiiey. 
 resolved to halt and await my column, but meanwhile to send 
 out Hussein and another Somali, who had come up, to ascertain 
 if the course of the Guaso Narok was to be found in a long 
 valley that opened before us. The messengers had not yet 
 returned, when suddenly the rattling of musketry sounded 
 behind me. 
 
 All at once the surrounding heights were covered with 
 Massai warriors. Now all was explained. I had the loads at 
 once deposited together, and commanded fifteen porters, 
 who had arrived in the meantime, to go back with me. pearance of 
 But my people had become so tired and stiff through 
 the burning march that I could not get six men together. So 
 I hurried back myself, accompanied only by one Somali, to see 
 what had happened. 
 
 Directly afterwards, I met Herr von Tiedemann with the 
 camel-driver. He reported that our Massais of the evening 
 before had, on a sudden, treacherously stabbed our sick porter 
 Saburi. They had, indeed, been at once scared away by himself 
 and the Somalis, but Saburi had expired in terrible agony. So 
 the racket was all to begin afresh ! Exhausted as I had before 
 felt, I was filled with such rage at the thought of the dastardly 
 assassination, and, at the same time, with such contempt for these 
 Massais, that the idea of fighting them was altogether agreeable 
 to me. 
 
 " Forward ! Drive the donkeys to the porters ! " I cried to 
 the Somalis, when I saw the eight Massai donkeys still standing 
 
254 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 there, that I had till now refrained from taking. " Let us kill 
 the cowardly rascals like dogs ! " The Somalis were not 
 somaiis dis- exactly edified by this prospect, nor could they under- 
 courage . ^^^^^^ ^^y indignation at the tactics of the Massais, 
 which seemed to them entirely justifiable, as the blood spilling 
 of December 22nd had not yet been expiated. However, I suc- 
 ceeded in seizing five of the donkeys ; a very welcome booty for 
 the overladen column. 
 
 When I got back to the resting-place Hussein reported to 
 me that the long valley before us was dry. On the right hand, 
 joining it at right angles, there was certainly a river course, 
 but it contained not a drop of water. 
 
 Here lay the real danger ! Judging by all that had hap- 
 pened, I was obliged to consider that I had been completely over- 
 reached by the Massais. The thermometer stood at about 50° C. 
 (122° F.). We were steaming with the glowing heat. Our dry 
 tongues clave to the roofs of our mouths. And here we lay, 
 . ,. , surrounded by hostile warriors, who only awaited the 
 
 A distress- -' / •' 
 
 fui predioa- moment when we appeared entirely exhausted to make 
 an attack upon us. In such moments Nature assumes 
 something of an unpitying, even of a cruel character, as I once 
 experienced in the English Channel, where I was hurled down 
 by the raging billows, apparently to inevitable destruction. 
 There is no deliverance from without ; a man feels unsparingly 
 thrown back upon himself. But it is just in such positions 
 that the despairing heart is suddenly penetrated with the 
 thorough conviction of a protecting Providence. Even separate 
 resolves then appear like inspirations from above. 
 
 Thus it was with me at that moment. All at once the 
 thought thrilled through me, that if I hurried forward over a 
 declivity in the west of the neighbouring valley I should find 
 A sudden Water. Therefore forward ! " Blow the trumpet ! Beat 
 inspiration, ^^g drum ! The flag in advance, and away with the 
 Massais ! " An impression, as of the supernatural, must have 
 been made upon these Massais, who were watching us on all 
 sides, when they saw us make this sudden movement, exactly in 
 the direction in which water really lay. There was no real 
 
WATER A PARAMOUNT NECESSITY. 255 
 
 resistance on their part, when we suddenly turned oif at a right 
 angle from our road. Whatever men showed themselves on the 
 rocks were at once shot down, and thus we started off on a 
 march for life or death towards the west. 
 
 Behind us the Massais followed like hyenas ; but they 
 cautiously kept out of gunshot. Now and then I heard the 
 sound of the guns echoing from the hills in front of me or behind 
 me, just as the double crack of my rifle was heard by the rear. 
 But what did we all care, at that moment, for the Massais .P 
 Within us there was a cry for water, water ! Yonder 
 a river course becomes visible. " Webigi ! " cried the disappoint- 
 Somalis. " Madgi ! " cried the porters. We came up 
 to it, and — ^the watercourse was empty ! It was evidently the 
 same that Hussein had already seen lower down. 
 
 The sun is sinking low ! It is four in the afternoon ! What 
 is to be done ? 
 
 " We will cross over the next row of heights, to see if we 
 can perhaps find water on the other side ! " I called out to 
 Hussein and Musa, who, with me, formed the advanced guard. 
 Onward, therefore ! When I had climbed half-way up the hill, 
 Tiedemann came hurrying up, calling to me from below, 
 " Come back, Doctor ; the Massais are attacking us from the 
 rear!" "Then do you beat back the Massais; I shall search 
 for water." 
 
 Aloft on the height stood a broad Massai kraal, near which 
 a man was sitting. Like wolves we sprang upon him ; the 
 Somalis seized him, and I held the muzzle of my six- . 
 
 ' ■' An oppor- 
 
 chambered revolver to his temples. " Show me the tune 
 Guaso Narok, or depart into the world below." "Guaso 
 Narok," he answered, trembling with fear; "Guaso Narok 
 hana " ("Guaso Narok there"), pointing with his hand to the 
 valley below. It was an Andorobbo who gave us this joyful 
 news. I believe that no angel's voice could at that moment 
 have inspired me to offer more sincere thanks to the Thankful 
 Highest. "Who saved me from death, from slavery! feelings. 
 Hast Thou not Thyself accomplished everything, holy, glowing 
 heart ? " Ah ! how humbly, on this evening of December 26th, 
 
256 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 did I put away from me anj' such expression of Titanic daring [ 
 How devoutly did I bend before that mysterious Power that 
 shapes the fate of men, and had once more saved us from 
 perishing miserably ! 
 
 Gradually the porters came dropping in, and I at once sent 
 twenty -five of them, with a suitable military escort, down to 
 the river with the Andorobbo to bring water. Then Herr von 
 Tiedemann came in. I had sat down in my arm-chair at the 
 entrance to the kraal, had already quenched my thirst from the 
 Jo fuimeet -^wdorobbo's jug, and was smoking a pipe. "Well, 
 ing with Herr von Tiedemann, a little tired ? " " Water ; have 
 we any water .P" "Water," I rejoined, with feigned 
 indifference, " why should we not have water ? Down yonder 
 is the Guaso Narok. Meanwhile do you take this," and I 
 handed him the jug by my side, " or would you like a mouthful 
 of brandy with it ? " Herr von Tiedemann seized my hand with 
 both his own. " Thank God ! Then we shall perhaps get to 
 Lake Baringo after all." 
 
 I threw my column of porters and the herd of cattle into 
 the Massai kraal, which I made defensible by burning a 
 few of the outlying buildings. Our tents, and that of the 
 Somalis, I caused to be erected outside. I again established 
 eight outposts, as the camp-fires of the Massais glared 
 A comfort- threateningly down from all the hills around. At 
 able supper. ^^^^ o'clock we Were sitting comfortably in the 
 moonlight over a mutton cutlet, with cognac and water, and 
 I had once more an opportunity of explaining to Herr von 
 Tiedemann Schopenhauer's theory of the negativity of pleasur- 
 able sensations. 
 
 This night I had, for the first time since many days, a 
 lengthened sleep, and I made my servant Rukua lie down 
 before the door of the tent ; and the Somalis had assured 
 me that, for their part, they would keep the sentries suffi- 
 ciently awake. I had also arranged that the column should 
 not take the road next morning until half-past six ; and so 
 I woke up, on December 27th, refreshed, and like a new 
 man. 
 
MARCH ACROSS THE STEPPE. 257 
 
 Unhappily, such was not the case with Herr von Tiedemann. 
 On the preceding night he had not heen ahle to sleep, Herr von 
 and on that morning dysentery definitely declared mann's 
 
 itself. illiiess- 
 
 Towards seven o'clock, with my herd and my whole column, 
 I crossed the Guaso Narok, which rushed below clear and fresh 
 over the rocks. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river a few Wandorohbo came 
 towards me, and informed me that the donkeys which I had 
 taken away on the previous day belonged to them. As they 
 were not, however, able to bring any proof of this statement, I 
 rejected it as "unfounded." On their part they declined my 
 proposition that they should approach a little nearer, to dis- 
 course with me concerning the way to the Baringo. 
 
 Amid enormous difficulties, partly through hard and thorny 
 thickets, we got to the summit towards nine o'clock. Before 
 us lay a black, charred steppe, over which the north Difficult 
 wind swept, while a deserted Massai kraal appeared ™ross the 
 here and there. When we looked down the slope we ^*«pp«- 
 had climbed the eye could follow, to an apparently immeasur- 
 able distance, the course of the Guaso Narok, bending off towards 
 the south-west, and behind it, in the far distance, the slopes of 
 the Elbejet district. 
 
 We now advanced in a west-north-west direction. Of 
 Massais not a trace was to be seen. All kraals were empty. 
 Until one o'clock I marched, according to the compass, exactly 
 keeping the direction I had taken. Soon it was reported to me 
 that the herd could no longer follow, and that a part of it had 
 already given in on the way. This compelled me to a compui- 
 halt to draw the column together again. I gave the ^oryhait. 
 people half an hour s rest, and intended then to go on until 
 the evening. But Herr von Tiedemann reported to me that he 
 was ill, and would not be able to make a forced march of this 
 kind. Of course, this decided the matter. 
 
 I had had the plateau inspected, far in advance, by Rukua. 
 \A hen he came back at two o'clock, with the announcement that 
 water was nowhere to be found, I gave up the advance I had 
 
 17 
 
258 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 l)]annecl, and turned in a southerly direction towards the Guaso 
 Narok. 
 
 At four o'clock, hastening on far in advance of my column, 
 
 I came upon a deserted Massai kraal, in which I hoisted our 
 
 flasj, and took possession of it for our use. It was soon 
 
 Hoisting ~ ^ i 
 
 the German cleaned up by my people, and by a little help put in a 
 ^^^' condition of defence. So soon as Herr von Tiedemann 
 
 was established there, I went off with a few of my people in a 
 southern direction in search of water. 
 
 At about five o'clock we found a pool of water among some 
 boulders of stone, and the whole column was able to cook some- 
 thing for supper. 
 
 That night I found it only necessary to establish three posts 
 around the kraal, and for the second time I had a healthy 
 sleep, as we were in perfect safety within our enclosure, sup- 
 posing an efficient watch to be kept. 
 
 For December 28th I resolved to give the exceedingly 
 exhausted column, and especially Herr von Tiedemann, a day's 
 rest. I confined myself to removing the camp some distance 
 nearer to the water we had discovered the evening before, and 
 Fortifying again threw the column into a strong Massai kraal, 
 the camp. ^]^ig]^^ \yy burning the outworks and strengthening the 
 enclosure, I converted into a perfectly impregnable fortress. 
 
 It was grey, dreary weather, and of the Massais there was not 
 a trace to be seen by day or night. But the disquieting circum- 
 stance was, that regularly by night their camp-fires gleamed 
 upon the neighbouring hills ; a sign that now, as ever, they 
 were prowling like hyenas round our column by night, and that 
 the greatest caution must be our permanent rule. 
 
 As Herr von Tiedemann was now confined to his bed, I was 
 more than before compelled to depend upon myself; and in these 
 weeks I found comfort in reading Carlyle's " Frederick II.," 
 whose shining example now wrought its effect in troublous 
 times, even in the distant Leikipia plateaus. 
 
 On December 29th we again pressed forward, through a 
 tolerably dense woodland thicket, to the Guaso Narok, whose 
 course I now followed, throughout a somewhat severe day's 
 
SUBUGU LA PORON. 259 
 
 march, ever towards the south-west. The Kenia still reared its 
 height behind us in the south-east. The mountain, Avhich had 
 been my delight a few weeks ago, had now a very „ , , 
 
 -, • m- 11 March, by 
 
 depressmg effect upon us all. We did not want to see the Guaso 
 it any more, because we had suffered so much on its 
 declivities. But immovably it looked down upon us. What 
 cared he, the mighty Kenia, apparently created for eternity — 
 what cared he for the petty movements of human suffering ? 
 
 Wherever we now came the Massais had fled before our 
 expedition. The kraals on the opposite side of the Guaso 
 Narok were likewise all of them deserted, though ^he massais 
 they exhibited traces of quite recent occupation ; for soared, 
 instance, smoking fires. This was a very satisfactory indication. 
 On the other hand, our caravan was again attacked on December 
 29th by a stupid rhinoceros, until a ball from my rifle caused 
 it to deviate from its course towards us, and after running 
 furiously round in a circle, to take to flight towards the north. 
 Unfortunately, a number of our people let themselves be carried 
 away by excitement, and sent a quantity of powder and ball 
 rattling uselessly behind it. 
 
 At one o'clock I again established my column in a Massai 
 kraal, which lay exactly to the north of the Subugu la Poron, a 
 mountain that had here just the appearance of the Kenia. To 
 my joy, the Kenia on this day began to glimmer blue, while 
 on the western side the boundary mountains of the Leikipia 
 plateau stood out more sharply. If the eternal flesh diet, with- 
 out any vegetable additions, had not begun to become improved 
 disagreeable to us, our position might by degrees have pi^ospects. 
 taken the character of comfort, for we had gradually become 
 accustomed to the system of keeping watch. 
 
 On the following day a march of seven hours brought us to 
 a large handsome Massai village, about at the place where the 
 Guaso Narok begins decidedly to bend its course to the south, 
 around the northern spurs of the Aberdare Chain. On this day 
 we had marched past a series of great papyrus marshes, papyrus 
 which are nothing more than stagnant portions of the ^^^^p^- 
 Guaso Narok on the plain, that here presents an entirely 
 
260 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 horizontal level. These seem to be the same marshes \yhich 
 Thomson saw on their southern side. 
 
 In the afternoon I sent out eleven of ni)- best people, to 
 
 ascertain if the Guaso Narok here really bends towards the 
 
 south. If this were the case we had reached the point from 
 
 which, in his time, Thomson had turned off in a 
 
 Thomson's . . t i t-i • n i 
 
 route un- north-west direction to Lake Jt5armgo, and on the next 
 in 'the dry momiug we should have to undertake the same salto 
 season. mortale. It would truly be a salto mortale for us, 
 inasmuch as Thomson marched in the rainy season, whereas 
 we were now in the dry time of the year, and ran the risk of 
 finding no water. Accordingly, before we started I had all 
 our cattle watered, and after about an hour's marching we 
 entered the dense thorny thicket, of which, in his book of 
 travels, Thomson has given a doleful description. But the 
 affair did not appear to us so bad as Thomson makes it out. 
 
 A few Somalis marching in front, with sharp swords and 
 axes, opened a path for us in a north-west direction, from 
 which, however, I deviated at noon towards the west, hoping, 
 in this way, more quickly to reach the Guaso Tien, which flows 
 into the Baringo Lake, and was to be my basis for the further 
 advance. 
 
 While we were thus working our way through the thicket, 
 all at once the Kikuyu people threw down their loads, and dis- 
 Desertion appeared towards the right. I thought at first they had 
 Kikuyu ^^^'^ sonie Massais, and sprang towards the left side ; 
 porters. \^^i j^g ^q Qjjg appeared in that direction, it dawned 
 all at once upon me that this was not so much a case of panic, 
 as one of simple desertion on the part of these gentlemen, for 
 which I could not altogether blame them. Only two of the 
 Kikuyu people had been kept hold of by the Somalis, and had 
 to go with us as far as the Baringo. But I was obliged now to 
 burden the camels with the loads that had been thrown down, 
 whereby our march was still further retarded. 
 
 All the woodland brooks we found here were dry ; and our 
 state of mind was the more despondent, as we had no points of 
 intelligence, by which we could judge when we should succeed 
 
DIFFICULTY IN FINDING WATER. 261 
 
 in working our way out of the thicket, or if we should do 
 so at all. 
 
 At noon I allowed the column a short rest. The Somalis, 
 and Hussein especially, prayed aloud to Allah for help, which I 
 always encouraged them in such circumstances to do, 
 
 , 1 • 1 rm , , Confidence 
 
 to keep up their moral tone. Ihe porters showed, as in the 
 they did generally in these days, a touching confidence "''''"^•" 
 in me personally. They said, " We shall find water, for the chief 
 has said it, that we should find water to-day." 
 
 Throughout the whole afternoon we worked on. At length, 
 from four o'clock, the thicket began to grow a little lighter. We 
 came to a broad rhinoceros spoor, and at five o'clock into an 
 open, but, unfortunately, an entirely dry valley, evidently the 
 one designated by Thomson the Marmose valley. Here I 
 pitched our camp. 
 
 Herr von Tiedemann told me, directly we were in camp, that 
 he had decidedly identified his symptoms with those of dysentery. 
 I had had a tub of water brought for the two of us, and now 
 had some cocoa boiled for Herr von Tiedemann. Grave 
 But my heart was very heavy. How could I help him ? o? vjn °" 
 Dysentery requires peculiar treatment. Thomson had Kedemann. 
 been brought down, almost to death, by this disease during his 
 return march out of Africa, and we had scarcely half of our 
 march into Africa behind us. 
 
 But it was more important, for the moment, to find water for 
 the caravan. For this purpose I sent two columns in a south 
 and south-west direction respectively, while I myself, with 
 Hussein Fara, went off' in a north-west direction on the seeking 
 same quest. Towards six o'clock we came back with ^'"^^a'ter. 
 our errand unaccomplished, and I ate a scanty supper alone in 
 front of my tent, after posting the sentries round about the 
 camp. Rukua had also returned, with his troop, from the south 
 unsuccessful. 
 
 It was New Year's Eve, and my friends in my own country 
 were probably sitting within the circle of their dear ones, 
 assembled round the punch bowl. The temperature was still 
 cool during the nights, and above me the stars of the equatorial 
 
262 yK]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 world were flaming like thousands of mysterious signs of 
 interrogation. In the thicket around were heard the sounds of 
 the wilderness — the jackal howled, and in the distance sounded 
 the roar of a lion. 
 
 I was making mournful reflections on this conclusion of the 
 j^ear 1889, when towards midnight joyous cries suddenly re- 
 sounded from the southern side of the camp, and directly 
 afterwards the Galla man, Mandutto, Avas led up to me 
 found by in triumph by some porters. He had just returned 
 from his foraging expedition to the south-west, and on 
 his shoulders he carried two jugs of water. "Mandutto has 
 found water," was the joyful tidings, which ran at once from 
 mouth to mouth through the whole camp, and suddenly trans- 
 formed the general temper from melancholy brooding into a 
 lively state of joy. 
 
 With a heart full of thankfulness, I now laid myself down to 
 rest. In a somewhat marvellous way this danger also had 
 been averted ; and full of cheerful confidence I slept into the 
 year 1890. 
 
 The water discovered by Mandutto was brought from a rain 
 pool on the slope of the western margin of the Leikipia plateau. 
 The pool was hidden in the reedy grass, and had thus been 
 prevented, so far, from drying up in the sun. To this pond, 
 Beginning which was situate about four miles from our camp in 
 a new year, g^ gouth-west direction, I transferred my camp on the 
 morning of January 1st, and there I again held a day of rest, 
 before accomplishing the march to the Guaso Tien on the 
 following morning. The wind whistled raw and cold from the 
 north, true January weather; but we had water! We could 
 drink cocoa and cook soup; and so I spent a fine holiday, 
 thinking of what lay behind us. On that day I began to work 
 out my Massai report for Europe, and I also wrote letters to 
 my beloved ones at home. 
 
 We were now at an elevation of more than eight thousand 
 feet, and would certainly next morning come to the slope of 
 the Leikipia plateau towards the west. 
 
 As I sat in my tent that afternoon a report was suddenly 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE WANDOROBBO. 263 
 
 brought to me that there were people in the vicinity who 
 apparently wished to enter into communication with us. 
 I had them invited by signs to approach, and found thewando- 
 that they were young Wandorobbo. "^^''' 
 
 " Do you know the way to the Guaso Tien ? " I asked them, 
 when they had seated themselves in my camp. 
 
 "The Guaso Tien is very near," said they. 
 
 " It leads to the Baringo, does it not ? " 
 
 " The Baringo is out yonder." They pointed to the north- 
 west. 
 
 "Then that mountain yonder which we see is probably the 
 Dongo Gelesha ? " 
 
 They answered by lively signs in the affirmative, evidently 
 astonished that I knew the name. 
 
 " Now I will tell you something, my good Wandorobbo. 
 You are to show me the way to the Guaso Tien and to Njemps. 
 In return, I will give you some head of cattle, and handsome 
 clothes, when we arrive in Njemps." 
 
 They looked at one another, and did not seem inclined to 
 agree to the proposals. Accordingly I continued, — 
 
 "Where I come from, it is the custom to show the way 
 to strangers who come ijito the country when they ask it. 
 Whoever does not do that of his own free will is compelled to do 
 it. You do not seem inclined to follow our custom. . ^ .,. 
 
 A startling 
 
 Therefore I must ask you to sleep the night with my announce. 
 Somalis, so that you do not steal secretly away in dark- 
 ness and mist. For the rest, you will receive good treatment." 
 
 When, in spite of my friendly words, the two men suddenly 
 attempted to escape, they were seized by the Somalis, and 
 secured. The next day we marched in a very friendly manner 
 with them to Njemps, from whence they were allowed start for 
 to return to their tribe with rich presents. Thus ^Je^ips- 
 the chief care of the past week was overcome, and to-day, 
 for the first time, I looked forward with complete confidence 
 to the cheerful prosecution of our expedition. 
 
 Next morning we crossed the western margin of Leikipia, 
 guided by the two Wandorobbo, first passing through burnt-up 
 
264 NEW LIGHT UX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 and tangled bushes, then suddenly towards the west, on a 
 broad way appearing almost like an avenue, down the declivity. 
 
 Suddenly my whole column broke out into a loud cry of 
 rapture. A green valley opened before us, into which the 
 Leikipia plateau fell perpendicularly down. Along this valley 
 TheGuaso meandered a river. " Guaso Tien," was the answer 
 Tien river, ^f ^]^g Wandorobbo guides to my question. Thus we 
 had reached the river domain of the Baringo. We had left 
 behind us the rough and inhospitable plateau of Leikipia, and 
 probably with it, for ever, the anxiety of fighting the Massais. 
 
 Through grass that grew to a man's height we marched on 
 for a quarter of an hour to the Guaso Tien. The river was for 
 the most part dry, and only in the places where a tangle of 
 high reeds kept off the rays of the sun was a little water, from 
 which the caravan refreshed itself. I resolved, accordingly, to 
 march farther down the river, where, according to the assertion 
 of the Wandorobbo, better water was to be had. 
 
 It was nearly three o'clock when we came to a mighty 
 gorge, where the Guaso Tien begins to cast itself, with a steep 
 fall, into the depths. Over rough boulders and great blocks of 
 stone, where we had often a difficulty in picking our way, we 
 A difficult clambered down. But at last the path became very 
 path. narrow, and disappeared altogether when we came to a 
 massive rock, that entirely filled up the bed of the river, pre- 
 senting a perpendicular descent of at least sixty -five feet. Here 
 was an insuperable obstacle to further climbing, and I therefore 
 made up my mind to pitch my camp for the night by a little bend 
 higher up the river, where there was a little water under the rock. 
 The shores rise steep on either side, so that every word, 
 even if spoken softly, makes a loud echo in the gorge. Here I 
 needed only to establish two outposts, one above and one below, 
 to be safe from any hostile surprise ; and when in the evening 
 the camp-fires of the expedition blazed up by the rocks and 
 in the river gorge, we had the most magnificent scenery of a 
 wolf's glen* before us that can be imagined. 
 
 * The " Wolfsschlucht," or wolf's glen, it will be remembered, is the scene 
 of the incantation of Caspar in Weber's Freischutz. — Tb. 
 
VOLCANIC REGION OF THE GUASO TIEN. 265 
 
 On the day before, while attempting to descend with the 
 camels, my Somalis had discovered a path to the right of the 
 Guaso Tien, by which I travelled next morning. It led us 
 first, at an elevation of 8,100 feet, to the furthest margin 
 of Lake Baringo, from which the Dongo GeleshaAnewpath 
 appeared only like a hill of slight elevation. I had *"''''*• 
 from here a complete view round this very remarkable margin 
 land, and think I may assert that we have here to do with an 
 enormous crater ring, the diameter of which, as it reaches to 
 the ascent of Elgejo, I was afterwards able to determine at 
 fifteen German miles (seventy English). Within a great ring 
 a number of little crater rings appear to be set up, the deepest 
 of which is Lake Baringo itself. Thus we here stand voioanio 
 opposite a crater formation, to which not one that I "^'"'■ 
 know in the world can be likened, and which I could compare 
 only with one of the annular systems in the moon. The 
 descent from this margin to the deep land is almost perpen- 
 dicular, and as a landscape is truly magnificent. 
 
 On a path Avinding down in a zigzag shape we now de- 
 scended, to strike the Guaso Tien again at a point where it 
 turns from its southern course, almost at a right angle, towards 
 the west. From here we had to follow the course of the river 
 itself. The rocks to the right and left, which completely close 
 it in, rise to the height of about eight hundred feet. In some 
 places they are close together, at others they are farther apart. 
 It seems as though the rock had here been split asunder by 
 some convulsion of the earth, developing a large cleft, into 
 which the Guaso Tien precipitates itself A remarkable thing 
 in the course of this river was, moreover, that wherever „ 
 
 ' ' Course of 
 
 it was in deep shadow it had a certain depth of water, the Guaso 
 but in those places where the sun shone down perpendi- 
 cularly upon it only a dry river-bed appeared. It was difficult 
 to see where the water at once came from again. 
 
 In one place the rocks were so close together that a donkey 
 could hardly force its way through the passage, and the camels 
 actually stuck fast. Consequently I had the camp pitched for 
 the second time below this spot, in a wider part of the gorge 
 
266 ^V£Tr IJGIIT ON DARK AFJUCA. 
 
 itself, and remained encamped here a whole day, to pull out 
 the camels, which was done after much exertion. 
 
 So it was not until January 5th that we quitted the gorge 
 of the Guaso Tien, a river which reaches to the south-west 
 angle of Lake Baringo, to turn our steps, in a westward course 
 on the edge of the declivity, directly across the plain of 
 Njemps. The Dongo Gelesha now lay to the north-east, and 
 soon appeared, looked at from below, in all its imposing slope, 
 before us. On this day 1 had the camp pitched below the 
 Dongo Gelesha, by a little affluent of the Guaso Tien. While 
 Anaoci- this was being done one of the porters let a burning 
 dental fire, ^j-^nd fall iuto the tinderlike grass. It caught fire at 
 once ; and with express-train speed the conflagration spread, 
 happily in a direction away from the camp, over the slopes 
 and the grassy steppe. This occurrence fortunately occasioned 
 me to seek a camping-place that had already been burnt bare, 
 and consequently presented no danger of fire. I say " fortun- 
 ately," for in the evening the wind veered round, and now all at 
 once the fire, which at noon had rushed forth across the steppe, 
 came back upon us by a circuitous route, and, indeed, with a 
 speed which, if we had been among the masses of grass, would 
 have rendered flight almost impracticable. With difficulty we 
 succeeded in getting the donkeys and the ammunition into the 
 centre of the little bare camping-place I had selected. Herr 
 von Tiedemann, who had set up his tent on the edge of the 
 A danger- g^'^^^y stcppe — indeed, in the steppe itself — was obliged 
 ous posi- to rush out, unclothed, in headlong flight, to escape 
 the danger of being burnt alive in it. As is always 
 the case where there are high and low grounds in close prox- 
 imity, perfectly malicious gusts of wind prevailed here on this 
 day, so that all night long we were in danger of seeing our tents 
 suddenly blown down. 
 
 W"e were glad enough next morning to leave this inhospit- 
 able place, in the hope that before night we should see Lake 
 Baringo itself Even with such longing may Moses have gone 
 forth, when it was declared to him that he should now behold 
 the promised land. 
 
AROUND LAKE BARINGO. 267 
 
 Thomson had drawn seductive pictures of Lake Baringo. 
 We hoped to find food there in abundance, and to regain the 
 feeling of security for life and limb. Patiently, therefore, we 
 accepted the fact that we had to march for hours through the 
 parched prairie, and then to ascend towards the last circumfer- 
 ence around Lake Baringo. Towards eleven o'clock this was 
 reached ; and there, in truth, lay the lake before us ! A green 
 grassy steppe extended far and wide, shading off, here and there, 
 into brownish and reddish tints. Opposite, just below lake Ba- 
 ns, a steep group of rocks rose up, which, according to [tTlur*''* 
 the maps, could be nothing else but Kamasia. This roundmgs. 
 was, moreover, corroborated by the Wandorobbo, who were 
 astonished, as before, that I could tell them of such names. 
 But to the right the lovely basin of Lake Baringo bends 
 like the bay of Sorrento, or that of Naples, and towards the 
 north scattered islands rise above its surface. Thus the 
 Baringo looks up with its deep blue eye at the gleaming heaven. 
 One hardly knows if that blue surface that appears below, or the 
 canopy that stretches its expanse above, is the real sky. Like a 
 scene from fairy-land the picture lay spread out that we there 
 viewed below us. 
 
 So it is really to be vouchsafed to us that we shall quit, 
 as living men, the inhospitable steppes of the Massais ? Yes, it 
 has been vouchsafed to us ! We have only to descend, to grasp 
 the reality. 
 
 For about an hour we revelled in the contemplation of the 
 picture glorified by every poetic charm. Whether the enthu- 
 siasm of my corn-lacking porters was not chiefly called forth 
 by the anticipation of what they should find to fill improved 
 their cooking-pots withal, I will leave an open question, prospects. 
 At all events, the feeling of satisfaction was universal, and on 
 the strength of this general feeling the very troublesome descent 
 was made more rapidly and easily than would probably have 
 been the case under other circumstances. We had to clamber 
 down an almost perpendicular space of about twelve hundred 
 feet ; certainly not a pleasurable task for the camels, or for 
 the porters, with their loads that weighed sixty pounds. On 
 
268 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 reachiug the utmost verge of the crater circumference, I halted 
 to collect the whole column. Unhappily I had lost one of my 
 camels that morning, so that I had only three left. 
 
 But what did that signify, weighed against the fact that we had 
 now, of a certainty, reached the Baringo territory P Towards 
 two o'clock we marched away with beat of drum, through the 
 grassy steppe, towards the west. For the first time after a long 
 interval, acacias and mimosas again appeared on our horizon. 
 
 . ,,. They grew on the borders of the Guaso na Nyuki, 
 
 Crossing the . . .^ ' 
 
 Guaso na towards which we were pressing. At about five o'clock 
 
 Nyuki r o 
 
 we crossed it, and, as I had foi-merly done in the quiet 
 days by the Tana, I set up my camp under the. widespreading 
 shade of the mimosa trees ; and it was with a sensation of 
 heartfelt joy that I sat down to my evening meal in front of 
 my tent, at seven o'clock, with the moon shining silently and 
 peacefully down. 
 
 Of the natives we did not, on this evening, get a glimpse. 
 The two Massai settlements, Njemps Ndogo and Njemps Nkubua 
 (Little Njemps and Great Njemps), are situated on the Guaso 
 Tigerish, which rolls towards the Baringo, two or three miles 
 westward of the Guaso na Nyuki. To-night I again lay down 
 to rest, with satisfaction like that I had felt on Christmas Eve. 
 
 Next morning early we were up and away, with the drum 
 beating, towards the south-west. Soon we came upon a broad 
 road, and presently I heard human voices calling to us on my 
 left. It was almost like a home feeling to hear the old " lambo " 
 of the coast repeated here in the heart of Africa. At once we 
 felt that we were once again in peaceful communication with 
 the outer world. A few hundred paces more, and the thick 
 Arrival at thomy riugwalls of Njemps rose before us. The elders 
 Njemps. Q^ ^]^g j.j,j^g came out, and replied to my " lambo " 
 with a friendly " lambo sana." Hands were duly spat in and 
 shaken. 
 
 Presently a troop of the natives placed themselves at the 
 head of the column, and led us round Njemps in a circuit 
 towards the west. We crossed the Guaso Tigerish, and found 
 ourselves under the shade of the cool mimosa trees, by the 
 
COMMKXCEMEXr OF BETTER TlMEf^. 
 
 269 
 
 iKjrtlioru wall of the place, on the old campinij-g'rouiid of the 
 travelliuu- caravaiis, where Mr. Thomson, Dr. Fischer, „ 
 
 Camping 
 
 and Count Teleld had all dwelt in their time. Quickl_v among 
 the loads were dejjosited and the tents set u]), and 
 soon we experienced the pleasant feelinii' of reposing- comfort- 
 ably among a friendly tribe. 
 
 The toils and dangers we had endured among the Massais of 
 the Leikipia plateau began, like the stormclouds when a tem- 
 pest has spent its rage, to sink gradually away on the horizon 
 of our memory. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FROM THE nAIUNGO TO THE VIC- 
 TORIA XYAXZA TERRITORY. 
 
 " In the realm of dreams and magic 
 Have we, as it seemeth, entered." 
 
 GOBTHE. 
 
 IVTJEMPS lies about five miles 
 A~-\ soutli of Lake Bariuiro. I 
 am sorry to say I cannot join in 
 the Thomsonian hymn of praise 
 concerning this place and its iii- 
 labitauts. He was euclianted with 
 the security of the life lie enjoyed 
 here, and that may have biassed 
 his spirit. We had won our own 
 safety, until now, by fighting, and 
 
 we had not paid tribute any- 
 where, so that these two 
 
 '"^^ considerations did not weigh 
 C**;^''^ „ . , heavily in the 
 
 Cluestion of ■' 
 
 ways and SCale ot GUI' 
 
 means. , , , 
 
 well b e 1 n g- 
 
 But as regarded the important question of our b(jdily food and 
 necessities, thanks to the circumstance that we could pay for 
 
 V ^» 
 
RELATION WITH THE MASSAIS. 271 
 
 food with food, we were able to procure from the Massais grain, 
 honey, and fish. They were themselves suffering hunger, and 
 would hardly have declared themselves ready to part with eat- 
 ables for clothes-stuffs, and still less for ornaments, purchasing 
 But I paid in goats and sheep, and thus succeeded in ^"ppiies. 
 purchasing for myself and my people a corresponding supply of 
 " veri-veri," a kind of small red millet, and also in getting 
 some honey and a daily supply of fish. Of the corn we pre- 
 pared a kind of meal, which, boiled in salt water, made a very 
 tasty addition to our milk. 
 
 Among the sheep we brought with us, the Massais here and 
 there recognised animals that had been stolen from them by 
 their cousins of Leikipia, with whom they lived in deadly feud. 
 Of course I could not consent to give these back without an 
 equivalent ; had I done so, I should soon have got rid of my 
 whole flock. All things considered, we lived in good friendship 
 with each other, being united by our common enmity towards a 
 third nation. 
 
 I had very soon recovered from the fatigues of the march 
 over Leikipia, but, unfortunately, Herr von Tiede- ^^^^ ^^^ 
 mann was not able to regain his health in the four Tiedemann's 
 
 1 T 1 -n • illness. 
 
 days we spent by Lake Baringo. 
 
 The depressed region between the Dongo Gelesha in the east, 
 and the Kamasia plateau, that falls off steeply at about the 
 same elevation, in the west, was 3,400 feet above the sea level, 
 and for the first time, after a long interval, we had now warmer 
 nights, while the days still remained tolerably cool. 
 
 The whole of this depression is filled with a kind of reddish 
 clay, in which the sun burns great cracks and clefts. The 
 drawback in this region is the remarkable dryness, which often 
 destroys the harvest and occasions famine. The^j^gg^i 
 Massais, who, in contrast to their brethren on the *e™^"'^"- 
 elevated plateaus, practise agriculture, have indeed arranged a 
 very ingenious method of irrigation ; but this irrigation depends 
 upon the state of the Guaso Tigerish, which also almost dries 
 up at this season of the year. 
 
 I visited Lake Baringo on Sunday, January 12th. By the 
 
272 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 way we saw great numbers of game animals of all kinds. But 
 of the lake itself not much was to be seen, for it 
 
 Shores of . . ■ i i i 
 
 lake IS surrounded on its southern shore with a broad 
 anngo. j^g^j.g^jj gf reeds, which must be pressed through before 
 the expanse of water is descried. 
 
 Lovely as this lake appears seen from the heights, there is 
 little charm of landscape on its shores themselves. The 
 inhabitants of these regions, called by the WanganncBsi 
 " Wakuafi," that is to say, dealers, — a name which, by 
 uafi or the way, is not known among the Massais themseh'es, 
 — have been much reduced in number and humbled by 
 wars, and are consequently more modest than their insolent 
 cousins on the plateaus. They belong to a great tribe which, as 
 it appears, was entirely defeated and scattered in all directions 
 by the other Massais, at the beginning of this century, being 
 partly driven still further north to the lakes discovered by 
 Count Teleki, partly to Usaguha, partly to Kawirondo, and 
 close to the shores of Lake Victoria. The people are intelli- 
 gent, and certainly capable of culture. They are favourable to 
 strangers, because they expect through them to get protection 
 from the Massai tribes, who fall upon them again from time to 
 time. The trading strangers, whether they be Arabs or Euro- 
 peans, have likewise an interest in permanently maintaining 
 here this colony of peaceable and friendly Massais. 
 
 I expressed myself on this point in a report which I pre- 
 pared at Baringo, on January 10th, for the German Emin Pasha 
 committee, and which was not published for a long time : — 
 
 " A Baringo nation would be of the very greatest import- 
 ance for the general opening up of Central Africa, and for the 
 Be ort to S^'^^^ plateaus, over which our way led. Here, in what 
 the com. resembles a peaceful oasis, the expeditions which, ap- 
 
 mittee. , ■ ^ , , } -, . f 
 
 proachmg irom the east, are making their way to the 
 north and west, can rest and gain strength for the further dif- 
 ticulties that lie before them. It is also known that Njemps and 
 the Baringo form one of the great centres of the ivory trade of 
 Eastern and Central Africa. I consider it equally important in 
 the interests of' civilisation and of a general European trade to 
 
REPORT FOR THE COMMITTEE. 273 
 
 defend, and permanently to secure, the colony of intelligent and 
 submissive Wakuafi dwelling here from the destruc- 
 tion with which they are continually threatened at the of inter. 
 hands of the Massai and Wosuk. In a word, I consider ''^"*'''"- 
 the establishment of a strong European station by the Baringo 
 to be called for in the interest of the whole further development 
 of civilisation in Eastern and Central Africa. Five white men 
 and twenty-five well-armed Askari, with a piece of ordnance, 
 would, according to my estimate, be quite sufficient to secure 
 this charming valley in a military point of view ; and I also 
 believe that such an establishment would very soon pay for 
 itself as a commercial factory. Which nation it is that esta- 
 blishes such a station here is of no consequence, from the point 
 of view of civilisation. I should unquestionably do it myself, 
 if I did not require all my powers for the further prosecution 
 of the task before me ; for the greater part of my resources 
 have been taken from me, by brute force, in Zanzibar and on 
 the coast. Meanwhile, in order at least to effect something, I 
 have concluded a treaty with the Wakuafi, which assures to 
 them the friendship of the Germans, and places their land at 
 my disposal with regard to further steps to be taken in the 
 matter. At the same time I hoisted the German „ 
 
 German 
 
 flag at Niemps on January 9th. I think I am war- flag hoisted 
 
 -, . . , 1 , ^^1. atNjemps. 
 
 ranted m assuming that, at the present moment, the 
 black, white, and red flag is the one most dreaded by the 
 Massais ; and until the matter is decided in Europe, I hold it to 
 be the most practical thing that this flag should wave here. 
 Accordingly, I proclaim Njemps to be a European and especially 
 a German possession. I consider myself entitled to do this, 
 because the Baringo, with Njemps northward of the Equator, is, 
 according to an objective explanation, manifestly not included 
 in the London agreement. 
 
 " From hence, as I assume, a lasting communication with 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva could be best established and main- communica- 
 tained to the north of the Kenia ; and if Emin Pasha oda-BMu- 
 is still in Wadelai, and is willing to co-operate in this ^™'*- 
 plan, a European chain of stations might be established, 
 
 18 
 
274 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 extending into the heart of Africa, which would have its support 
 in the navigableness of the Tana, and might become exceedingly 
 important, alike as regards commerce and civilisation, for 
 Eastern and Central Africa." 
 
 As the conclusion of this chain of reasoning I had already, 
 on January 8th, concluded the following treaty with the 
 elders : 
 
 " Njemps, on the Baringo, 
 
 ''January 8th, 1890. 
 
 " The elders of the Wakuati at Njemps and on the Baringo 
 come and solicit the friendship of Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 " They have heard that he has beaten the Massais, who are 
 their enemies. 
 
 " They declare that they acknowledge Dr. Peters as their 
 
 lord, and beg him to make application to His 
 
 with the Majesty the German Emperor for the incorporatioD 
 
 Wakuafi . . 
 
 of the Baringo country in the German protected 
 territory. 
 
 " Dr. Peters, after a negotiation of several hours with 
 an assembly of the Wakuati, declares himself ready to 
 grant them his friendship, and to protect them against the 
 Massais so long as he tarries on the Baringo. He declares 
 himself ready to hoist the German flag, thereby to show 
 to the Massais, in the time to come, that he looks upon 
 the Baringo territory as his, and that it stands under his 
 protection. 
 
 "The regulating of the further relations of Njemps and the 
 Baringo territory Dr. Peters reserves to himself. 
 
 " The cession of Njemps and the Baringo territory to Dr. Carl 
 Peters, and the acceptance of it on the part of Dr. Peters for 
 himself and his friends, is solemnly ratified by the signatures 
 of both the contracting parties, and with the forms usual among 
 Ratification *^^ Wakuafi ; as also the taking possession, by hoist- 
 trel^^ ing the German flag within the enclosure, of Njemps 
 Mkubua ; and Dr. Peters declares himself still prepared, 
 in case it should yet be possible, to enter into negotiations with 
 
AN ENGLISH EXPEDITION EXPECTED. 275 
 
 Emin Pasha, with a view to transfer his territory of power to 
 these regions. " Gael Peters. 
 
 " Elders of the Wakuafi of Njemps and Baringo: 
 Signatory mark of Laonama. 
 Signatory mark op Sombeja. 
 Signatory mark of Baezalat. 
 
 Hussein Fara, 
 Witnesses I MusA Dar-es-Salaam 
 
 Signatory mark of Longoletea. 
 Signatory mark of Lendeka. 
 Signatory mark of Nendalom. 
 
 BwANA Mku, 
 
 RUKUA, 
 
 I 
 
 I " Von Tiedemann. 
 
 " This testifies that the foregoing act has been accomplished 
 in the form of a treaty, on the present day, between Herr Dr. 
 Peters and the ^Yakuafi of Njemps and the Baringo. 
 
 " Njemps, January 8th, 1890." 
 
 On January 9th the German tiag was accordingly hoisted 
 within the enclosure of Njemps, and it was visible far over the 
 region around. 
 
 I had really expected to find an English expedition here, 
 inasmuch as Mr. de Winton, so early as in the winter of 1888, 
 had dissuaded us Germans from sending me out, on the 
 ground that I should meet an English expedition that winton's 
 would then be already returning from Emin Pasha. *^^^ 
 On this point also I expressed my opinion in the above-quoted 
 report, and I will reproduce my expressions here, literally, as 
 they clearly indicate what was my disposition in those days. 
 
 "I had expected a white man here, perhaps Mr. Martin, 
 but there was no Mr. Martin anywhere to be seen. I had 
 supposed that here at last the prophecies of Mr. de Winton 
 would be fulfilled, and that the returning English expedition 
 of rescue would appear on the scene. I had, indeed, repeatedl}' 
 come upon traces of English expeditions engaged in effecting 
 a retreat. Already at Aden, when I was still on my way to 
 Zanzibar, I had encountered Mr. Swaine, who had been men- 
 tioned as the leader of the English East African Expedition. 
 In Mombas, in April, I saw Mr. Last, who was coming back 
 from Ukamba ' to fit himself out afresh.' When I was in 
 Witu, at the beginning of July, I heard that somebody belonging 
 to Mr. Jackson's expedition 'had come back in haste from 
 
276 yfj]]r LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the interior, and was fitting himself out anew in Malindi.' 
 Afterwards I had been privileged with my own eyes to behold 
 the retm-n of Messrs. Pigott and Smith on the Middle Tana. 
 
 " There was, in truth, a sufficiency of returning English East 
 African expeditions ; but while Mr. de Winton and his friends 
 counselled that I should on no account be invested with the com- 
 Previoua mand of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, they had 
 E^g/*^''* nevertheless said that one Emin Pasha Expedition was 
 ditions. already encamped by the Baringo, and that I should 
 meet it here, if, on my side, I marched to Emin Pasha. Here, 
 on the Baringo, no one has seen anything of that expedition. 
 
 " Even if I were to assume that the English leaders of it 
 had moved onward — invisible, by some kind of spiritualist 
 manipulation — ^I am too well acquainted with the masticatory 
 Question of processes of Zanzibar porters to be able to believe, that 
 their route, f^^^ hundred of them could be pushed past the Baringo, 
 without leaving tangible traces. I am accordingly inclined to 
 think that no English Emin Pasha Expedition has ever been 
 here. But then, how came Mr. de Winton and his friends to 
 tell this to the world .P And what reason has the world to 
 attach more credit to other tales these gentlemen may put forth 
 than to this one ? " 
 
 It was afterwards told me, in Kawirondo, by Ali Somal, who 
 was with the Jackson expedition, that Mr. Pigott had originally 
 been intended for the Baringo. Whether this is true or not, I 
 am unable to say. At any rate, we had at this point again got 
 the better of English competition, and, very naturally, we were 
 not exactly sorry in consequence. 
 
 For our further advance towards the west, I had the burdens 
 solidly packed together, so that, as a rule, from that time for- 
 Adjusting ward, only the porters were told off for the carrying of 
 the burdens, tj^gj^^ and the beasts of burden, especially the three 
 camels, were only to be used in case of necessity. " Sir, let 
 them go like gentlemen ! " said Hussein Fara. 
 
 Besides this, I attended to the provisioning of the column, 
 as I knew very well that the uninhabited Angata na Nyuki 
 was now to be passed by us. As I have already noticed, the 
 
DUTY OF VICTUALLING AN EXPEDITION. 277 
 
 question of commissariat in African expeditions really consti- 
 tutes the chief task of the leader, who must do justice to it, if 
 he would show himself at all equal to his position. And 
 here I may quite candidly declare, that the manage- Jg'the"''" 
 ment of an expedition makes no figure, in my eyes, ''°'°""'- 
 unless it is quite perfect from this most important point of 
 view. Stanley has much to tell of the sufferings his expe- 
 dition had to endure from hunger on their march up the 
 Aruwimi. In reading that narrative I could not avoid think- 
 ing, " Yes, but does Stanley not feel at all that in these pictures 
 he exposes an inexcusable fault of his own ? " In the description 
 there is not a syllable to indicate this. Now, I will grant that 
 one cannot always be held responsible for a misfortune 
 
 J? J.T- • 1 • n 1 1 1 • 1 T f 1 • . Importance 
 
 01 this kmd, although m general I feel convinced it is of the com- 
 exactly in this particular that the commander of an ™^^°*"**- 
 expedition should make enquiries concerning his route, before 
 he leads hundreds of men into such regions ; or, if such a 
 prosecution of enquiries is not possible, he should guard against 
 the starving of his people by driving herds with him, or by 
 previously establishing victualling stations proportionate to his 
 needs. But that Stanley, even in his third journey through the 
 forest, when he was thoroughly acquainted with all the circum- 
 stances, has again to tell of a "starvation camp," does not, I 
 confess, maintain at its height the admiration I was formerly 
 inclined to bestow on him, especially as a leader of an expe- 
 dition. For my part, I should consider very seriously, before 
 entrusting a great expedition to a man, who looks upon such a 
 neglect of the principal duty of an expeditionary chief, as quite 
 in the proper order of things, and even seems to be of opinion 
 that he will awaken the sympathies of Europe, by giving a 
 picture of the sufferings that resulted from such carelessness. 
 
 On the Baringo I gave each of my people a twelve days' 
 ration of fiour, and as I had still about four hundred state of our 
 head of cattle at my disposal, I considered, on Janu- supplies- 
 ary 13th, that I might, with a good conscience, begin the advance 
 westward towards Kawirondo. 
 
 That day we encamped about seven miles westward of 
 
278 .V£ll' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Njemps, at a lovely bend of the Guaso Tigerish, where, in his 
 time, Count Teleki had pitched his camp for weeks. 
 
 Next morning we had to climb the wall of the Kamasia 
 Plateau, which inclines steeply down into the plain. 
 
 Clim'bingto -, ■, n ■ i 
 
 the Kamasia We began our march before sunrise, and now we went 
 Plateau. (.j^jj^bi^g upward continually, while the sun shone down 
 more and more hotly upon us. 
 
 The Kamasia Plateau is, in every respect, the opposite to 
 the Dongo Gelesha and the Leikipia Plateau. Like the latter, 
 it forms a series of levels, or terraces. It was as though we 
 had to climb up a succession of crater walls, lying in annular 
 form one within another. 
 
 I had induced my friend Laonania to show us the way as 
 far as the first watering-place in Kamasia. We marched until 
 past noon, as water was nowhere to be found. At 
 camping- length we halted at a spring that trickled very 
 ground. gparingly in the dried-up bed of the Guaso Kamnje, 
 where we were obliged to pitch the camp, in a very crowded 
 manner, by the slope of a mountain ; before us was the steep 
 slope of the last portion of the eastern acclivity of Kamasia. 
 
 The people of this land are Massais, like the rest, and have 
 much of the insolence of the inhabitants of Leikipia. Though 
 they knew that we had beaten these latter, they came noisily 
 crowding about us, and behaved turbulently enough, so that I 
 turned them out of the camp. However, they brought capital 
 honey to sell to us, and their boldness did not go so far as to 
 bring on a fight. 
 
 On January 15th our way led, in zigzag windings, to the 
 crest of the Kamasia, a complete climbing expedition, which, 
 to my surprise, was accomplished even by the camels, who 
 certainly marched along Avithout burdens as " gentlemen," only 
 having to carry Somali Achmed, who had fallen ill of pleurisy. 
 While the eastern slope of Kamasia is very dry, a 
 part of series of brooks are to be found on the western side, 
 and consequently fresh plantations also. 
 
 At Njemps, at the request of my porter Pemba I had left his 
 sick wife behind, in the care of the Massais there ; and the day 
 
MISBEHAVIOUR OF THE WAKAMASIA. 279 
 
 before, my porter Chamsin, who carried some iron utensils and 
 limped, had not arrived in camp. On the morning of January 
 15th, Pemba Motu was suddenly seized with a longing for his 
 wife's company, and just before the expedition started on the 
 march he absconded, leaving his load behind him. 
 
 This day I again set up my camp on a very confined space 
 at the corner of a mountain slope, just above a little spring. 
 Until then, the people of Kamasia had abstained from hostile 
 demonstrations against us. At midday, the report was made 
 that they had attempted to steal sheep from our flock, but had 
 been quickly put to flight by the Somalis firing at them. To- 
 wards three o'clock, Pemba Motu suddenly made his „ ^ „ , 
 
 ' •' FemDa Motu 
 
 appearance in headlong flight, completely naked, and and the 
 without his weapons. He reported that the Wakamasia 
 had felled Chamsin to the ground, and taken away his load ; 
 that they had also attempted to capture him, Pemba Motu, 
 and that it was only by leaving all his things behind him that 
 he had managed to escape, and to rejoin the expedition. 
 
 Though there was here a manifest casus belli, I could not 
 make up my mind once more to make the difficult march back, 
 across the crest of the Kamasia, but contented myself Question of 
 with issuing an order to my people to meet every "P"sais- 
 hostile act perpetrated by the 'SYakamasia, from this time 
 forward, with reprisals. 
 
 So we travelled onward on the morning of January 16th, 
 continually traversing hilly and, in some parts, steep ground, 
 towards the west. The Wakamasia repeatedly endeavoured to 
 break into our herd of cattle, but were driven back by the 
 Somalis, several of them being struck down. 
 
 It was nearly twelve o'clock when we reached the western 
 declivity of the Kamasia Plateau ; and, to our no small conster- 
 nation, we perceived before us, separated from us by a broad 
 valley, another steep, rocky wall, apparently extending down 
 perpendicularly into the deeper ground, which seemed to stretch 
 out in limitless length northward and southward. I The land 
 was told that this was the land Elgejo, where the °*^^eeJo. 
 people were very bad ; much worse than in Kamasia, the 
 
280 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Wakamasia declared. I was now in the south-west district 
 above Kapte, the region which surrounds the western declivity 
 of Kamasia. 
 
 After slaughtering a " goat of peace " with the people on 
 
 the higher ground, I began the descent, which was more 
 
 readily accomplished than we could have anticipated from the 
 
 higher position. Suddenly I saw that a green barrier 
 
 Demonstra- i i . . 
 
 tions of the had been placed across the way, and behind it fifty or 
 na ives. ^^^^^ natives were lying in wait, lances in hand, and 
 with bows and arrows ready to shoot. The people were simple 
 enough to demand tribute from me, but immediately gave up 
 this friendly intention when I pointed my gun at them, and 
 threatened them with war. They had been spoilt by Thomson, 
 who, with regard to this system of tribute, tells us in his work 
 " Through Massailand," that he and his men had several times 
 to halt, until they received permission to go on. The way was 
 closed by putting green twigs over the footpath, and their 
 stepping across that sacred symbol, before permission had 
 been given, was enough to throw the people into paroxysms of 
 uncontrollable excitement. 
 
 When the Wakamasia afterwards tried to take forcible 
 possession of the tribute they demanded, by seizing some of my 
 cattle (remembering also the assassination of Chamsin of which 
 they had been guilty), three of them were shot down in the act 
 of robbery, and by this means peace was restored in the land. 
 They now came to explain to us that they were willing to be our 
 friends, without receiving tribute. 
 
 This day I encamped somewhat to the south of Kapte, on 
 the western slope of the mountain range. The Kamasia people, 
 who now were quite amiable in their behaviour, brought us 
 The eatables of every description for sale, and we looked 
 
 waka/ forward to a quiet afternoon, when our attention was 
 masia. suddenly attracted to a rattling of musketry at some 
 distance below the terrace on which our camp had been pitched. 
 
 What could it be ? Surely, a coast caravan, if not Euro- 
 peans. An English expedition .P Perhaps Stanley, or even 
 Emin Pasha himself .P 
 
ARRIVAL OF V'ELC'0:]fE V/STTORS. 
 
 281 
 
 The Wakamasia who stood around soon relieved me from 
 my state of doubt, b}' informing me that this was a caravan of 
 Juma Kimameta, well known to me from Thomson's and also 
 from Teleki's descriptions of travel. 
 
 Presently the foremost of the new-comers appeared on the 
 
 "/ S,/f//, ^/3^>^^,- 
 
 Tpie Wakamasia Demand Teibute, 
 
 slope of the hill. In quick succession they fired their guns in 
 the air, and 1 replied by a shot from my tent. 1 sent my 
 leader of the porters, Musa, and my servant Buana Arrival of 
 Mku, to mei't the new arrivals, and welcome them. 
 Soon afterwards six picturesquely-attired Arabs, the lenders ol 
 the approaching expedition, made their appearance m my tent. 
 
iJ82 XEW LKrl-lT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I felt as the mariner may feel, who, sailing on an entirely 
 desert ocean, perhaps in the Polar Sea, suddenly sights another 
 ship. The Arabs appeared to us almost like fellow-country- 
 men, for they spoke Kiswahili, with which we were well 
 acquainted, and they came from Pangani, which I knew so well 
 from former years. Here in the Massai tribes the opposition 
 of interests to those of the Arab race disappears. We have all 
 a common interest, namely, to assert ourselves against the wild 
 natives, who, on their part, make hardly any difference between 
 Europeans and Arabs. 
 
 The new-comers told me that they had come down from 
 Turkang, and had tarried for some time in Engabot. 
 
 I asked them, natural^, if they had any news of Emin Pasha. 
 
 " Emin Pasha — who is he .P " 
 conversa " ^ '^hite man, who lives on the other side of Tur- 
 
 tion with kaug, by the Nile. Have the people of Turkang never 
 spoken to you of such a man ? " 
 
 " No, never." 
 
 "Have they not told you that on the western boundary of 
 their territory the ' Turki ' are seated ? " 
 
 " No, nor that either." 
 
 " What news do you bring us down from the north ? " 
 
 " Turkang is a dry land. The inhabitants are peaceable, 
 but last year the Massais came up, and they have driven away 
 the camels of the natives." 
 
 " You were also in Engabot — had you food there ? " 
 
 " The people of Engabot were formerly good, but now they 
 have become bad." 
 
 " Have you any kind of news from Kawirondo ? " 
 
 " They say that there is a white man in Kawirondo, in 
 Kabaras, who came round the lake. So the people in Elmut- 
 tiey told us yesterday." 
 
 " A white man ? what kind of white man P Does he come 
 from the coast, or from the interior P " 
 
 "He does not come from the coast. He is said to have 
 many women and soldiers with him. But who are you, and 
 where do you come from ? " 
 
CONVERSATION WITH THE ARABS. 283 
 
 "I am a German, and my name is Kupanda Sharo— in 
 Europe, Dr. Peters. We have traA-elled up the Tana, 
 through the Gallas, and across the Leikipia Plateau ao'ooi^roV 
 through the Massais. We have beaten the Massais, '''"'""■ 
 and burnt Elbejet. You see yonder the remains of the herds 
 which we have driven away from them." 
 
 " Beaten the Massais ? That is very fine ! (Ngema sana !) 
 The white men beat everyone now. Buana Mkubua (Count 
 Teleki) beat the Wasuk in the north last year." 
 
 " We are obliged to fight everywhere, as we will pay no 
 tribute, and the people attack us. Here in Kamasia, too, we 
 had a skirmish this very day." 
 
 " Very good. But where do you want to go ? " 
 
 "I. will go to the white men on the Nile, and in the first 
 place to Uganda. Have you news from Uganda ? " 
 
 "Not from Uganda, but you will get every information in 
 Kawirondo. There the people are very good. You may go out 
 walking there without a gun — with a stick. There is Report on 
 much to eat there, too, and you will get all the infor- kawirondo. 
 mation you can possibly want. Wangwana are living there, 
 too, from whom you may buy stuffs." 
 
 This was an interesting communication, but our imagina- 
 tion was particularly excited by the news about the white men. 
 The information brought by the Arabs sounded mysterious, 
 and we conjectured that it must have a connection of some 
 kind with the aim of our expedition. I made the Arabs a 
 present of some oxen, and asked them if they would , 
 
 ^ ' •' Arrange- 
 
 carry a writing with them for me to the coast. They ment for 
 said they would ; and, amid a general salutation from 
 my people, they went back to their column, promising to return 
 in the evening. 
 
 Great was the rejoicing among my people at the news we 
 had heard. The generally expressed opinion declared that if 
 a white man, with great herds of cattle, was in Kawirondo, he 
 must be a German, for other people did not drive herds of 
 cattle — so thought my porters and soldiers. 
 
 After breakfast I wrote a short report to the German Emin 
 
284 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Pasha committee on the progress of the expedition up to that 
 time. This report arrived safely in Zanzibar at the beginning 
 of April, and was the first actual evidence that our expedition 
 had not been destroyed. This agreeable work occupied me 
 until six o'clock in the evening. 
 
 After dinner the Arabs, among whom especially the very 
 
 intelligent Buana Mku, from Pangani, led the conversation, 
 
 came to us once again. I treated them to cocoa and sugar, 
 
 and while the rain Mas falling without, we chatted 
 
 Another P 
 
 visit from away several agreeable hours m my tent, the Arabs 
 
 questioning me closely, to get information concerning 
 Leikipia, which they seemed inclined to prefer to the Naiwasha 
 route. Our conversation was carried on in the dark. 
 
 I have forgotten to mention until now, that from Massa 
 onward we had been entirely without lights. There can hardly 
 be a notion, in Europe, of the quantity of privation involved in 
 this slight circumstance. It makes one entirely dependent on 
 
 the sun and moon ; and when the moonlight failed us, 
 manufac- we Were compelled to sup before six o'clock, and to go 
 
 to bed directly afterwards. It was not till we came 
 to Uganda that the idea occurred to me of manufacturing the 
 means of illumination, from our store of fat and twisted 
 cotton stuff. 
 
 I may mention, in this place, that the English in Lamu had 
 taken from me six hundred cigars, so that for this narcotic 
 enjoyment we had to depend entirely on our pipes and native 
 tobacco. On the Baringo the last bottle of cognac was also 
 expended ; and now we were restricted, for beverages, to coffee, 
 tea, and cocoa, which, I may observe by the way, we found 
 eminently conducive to our health. 
 
 At parting I presented Buana Mku with a keg of powder 
 and a new robe, and, bearing our despatch, the Arabs withdrew 
 Partin ^°^' ^^® night. Ncxt moming there was another leave- 
 with Buana taking, and with mutual pious wishes we parted from 
 
 each other — we to proceed to Uganda, they to make 
 their way back through the Massais of the Kilima Ndsharo. 
 This meeting with the Arab expedition was like the first 
 
ELMUTTIEY ; ELGEJO AND ITS PEOPLE. 285 
 
 faint dawning of day for us, with respect to our expedition's 
 aim. In the white man, who was said to dwell in Kawirondo, 
 we had a subject that occupied our thoughts during the march, 
 and often enlivened our conversation afterwards. Each of us 
 was now greatly thrown back upon himself, as Herr von Tiede- 
 mann's illness continued, and he generally went to bed so soon 
 as the day's march was over. 
 
 From Kapte we journeyed to Elmuttiey in a march of eight 
 hours. Elmuttiey lies in the great depression which extends 
 between Kamasia and Elgejo in a north-west direction, and is 
 traversed by the Weiwei river. 
 
 On this day died the Somali Achmed, who was buried in 
 the evening, by the light of flaming fires, by his fellow tribes- 
 men. A very fantastic spectacle was that of his burial. They 
 uttered their Mohamedan prayers in a kind of wild convulsion. 
 Each man solemnly laid it on the dead man's con- jj^^jj^^f 
 science, to mention his name in the presence of Allah, the somaii 
 Strangers who witnessed this singular scene must have 
 taken it for a grisly incantation, with magic formulas and 
 exorcism of evil spirits. 
 
 In these depressions, between two towering walls of rock, a 
 very singular appearance is presented at night by the fires 
 maintained in the villages built on the hills. This spectacle 
 had already attracted us at Lake Baringo, and here it appeared 
 still more peculiar. 
 
 I had heard that there was plenty of food at Elgejo ; but the 
 people here kept aloof from us in a singular manner. Inclined 
 from the beginning to insolence, just like the Wakamasia, they 
 still did not feel quite safe in approaching us, having heard of 
 the fate of their tribal relatives of Kamasia, and especially of 
 what had befallen the Massais. They are clothed like ne people 
 the Wakamasia, whom they also resemble in appear- "f^is^J"- 
 ance, wearing a short cloak hung over the shoulders, that leaves 
 the body itself completely nude. They carry a slender spear, 
 about seven feet long, besides a bow and arrows. The language 
 here, as in all the lands of this region, is that of the Massais. 
 
 On the recommendation of Buana Mku, I had, immediately 
 
286 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 on my arrival here, enquired for a guide, Kirobani, who, it was 
 Kirobani, Said, knew the way to Kawirondo, and, for an adequate 
 the guide, j-g^ju-jj j^ Cattle, would perhaps be inclined to show us 
 the road. Kirobani declared himself willing, after we had 
 settled to pay him five sheep and a reasonable quantity of stuff, 
 for his services. 
 
 As the supply of provisions the column possessed did not 
 seem sufficient for the march across the steppe that lay before 
 us, I determined to remain here for the following day, to increase 
 our stock. In the morning I at once sent my people into the 
 villages, on the slope of the mountains, to purchase, but they 
 came back in the afternoon with their commission unfulfilled. 
 The natives would not sell anything ; and all my own efforts in 
 this direction, continued until the evening, were of no avail. 
 
 To my chagrin there also arrived at my camp, on this day, 
 a deserter from the Arab ranks, whom unfortunately I could not 
 Arrival of a ^snd back, as the distance between the two expeditions 
 deserter, ^^g already too great, and whom I was, therefore, com- 
 pelled to receive into my column. The man's name was Buana 
 Maramba, and he was a native of Mombassa. 
 
 When I resumed the march with my column on January 18th, 
 Kirobani, in spite of his emphatic promise, had not made his 
 appearance. I therefore sent out men to seek him, and in the 
 meantime set forward with my column towards the wall of rock 
 which we had to climb. 
 
 Kirobani, who had already received part of his payment, was 
 discovered by my people, hiding in a mtama field. I went up 
 to him and said, " Forward now, old boy ! Show us the way to 
 Misconduct Kawiroudo." A short dogged " A-a-a ! " was the reply 
 of Kirobani. ^.Q ^j eucouraging address. I said, "Forward!" 
 Again the snarling, " A-a-a ! " Thereupon I took him by the 
 shoulder, and gave him a slight shake. Then he snarled, just 
 like a cat setting up its back against a dog. My patience was 
 exhausted. A well-aimed blow in the face, and a cord fastened 
 round his neck by the Somalis, made it manifest to Kirobani 
 that I was not inclined to have my contracts broken in that un- 
 ceremonious way. He immediately assumed a very polite and 
 
OUR TRUSTWORTHY GUIDE KIROBANI. 287 
 
 modest demeanour, and strode onward, up the mountain, in the 
 most cheerful manner, followed b}' my column. This morning 
 I was compelled to have the last but one of my camels killed, as 
 it was entirely unable to march up the rocky path. 
 
 A little before twelve o'clock, I encamped on a promontory, 
 half way up the ascent, where a little brook went rippling by. 
 
 I caused Kirobani, who was now our very good friend, to be 
 chained up ; and in this situation he received the visits of his 
 family. I had him well fed, and he said I might quite safely 
 set him at liberty, for he was glad to go with us to Kawirondo. 
 But I was not sufficiently convinced of this gladness of heart in 
 him, and consequently persevered in the measures I had taken. 
 
 To strengthen our last remaining camel, the Somalia cooked 
 a whole sheep for it. To our great astonishment the The cami- 
 beast ate up the flesh, quite ravenously, to the last camei! 
 morsel. 
 
 On this day also, all our efforts to procure food for the 
 caravan failed. The natives would not sell anything, while on 
 the other hand their behaviour was not such as to justify a 
 declaration of war. 
 
 In the evening a violent shower of rain poured down upon 
 us, which we welcomed gladly, because it strengthened the hope 
 that we should succeed in finding water on the Angata na Nyuki 
 (red plain). But the night was dark as pitch, so that one could 
 not see one's hand before one's eyes, and the outposts had 
 taken refuge from the sheets of rain under the tent-roof of the 
 Somalis. Here was an opportunity for Kirobani, of which Escape of 
 he did not fail to take advantage. Next morning he kirobani. 
 had vanished, with the chain round his foot. He had only been 
 able to take the shortest of steps, like Gretchen on the Blocks- 
 berg, when Faust beheld her in the distance ; but, for all that, 
 he was nowhere to be found. Accordingly, I had to face the 
 disagreeable necessity of marching forward upon Kawirondo 
 without a guide, after all. 
 
 All night through, there had been a wild yowling and roaring 
 noise in the villages above us. The inhabitants had been hold- 
 ing high revel throughout the dark hours, and looked dissipated 
 
288 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 enough when we continued our march up the rocky incline next 
 morning. 
 
 The ascent became steeper and steeper. After passing the 
 villages, we presently came to a strip of forest. Here we suc- 
 ceeded in striking a bargain with three men from Elgejo, 
 Eigejo who agreed, in consideration of a stipulated number of 
 ^"^ *'■ arm-lengths of stuff, to lead us up to the plateau, and 
 then to return. When the belt of forest had been passed, we 
 came to another shoulder of the mountain, where I halted, to 
 wait for my herd and the donkeys. Here it was reported to me 
 that two donkeys had fallen down, and could go no further, and 
 that a part of the herd had also dropped behind. 
 
 From all sides Waelgejo came running up in many 
 hundreds, even in thousands, and their demeanour towards us 
 was manifestly more equivocal than on the two preceding days. 
 At length the herd emerged from the wooded thicket, and. now 
 we went on, upward along the dizzy path on the margin of 
 the rock. 
 
 At its highest point the Elgejo Plateau is crowned by a lava 
 
 cap, which descends perpendicularly, and would be quite inacces- 
 
 sible, but that it is traversed by a cleft, in which one 
 
 J. 116 ^r6Sil 
 
 Elgejo can climb upward, as on a staircase. But to do this, 
 it is of course necessary to know where this cleft is 
 situated. 
 
 Where the lava cap surmounts the rock is another shoulder, 
 on which there is room for the encampment of a caravan. This 
 point was occupied by a crowd of Waelgejo, and when I 
 appeared upon it, with the advanced guard, my three guides 
 suddenly stepped aside, and refused to show me the entrance to 
 the rocky staircase. All my persuasions were answered with a 
 stubborn, " A-a-a ! " and when I at last laid my hand upon 
 Quarrel °^^ °^ *^® ^'^^> *° compel him to do his duty, for 
 withtiie which he had been paid in advance, a wild war-cry 
 suddenly arose among the Waelgejo. They brandished 
 their spears, advanced upon me in a demonstrative manner, and 
 from rock to rock the war-howl echoed across the land. 
 
 All at once musket shots rattled from below. The 
 
FIGHT WITH THE WAELGEJO. 289 
 
 Waelgejo had thrown themselves across the path of the 
 Somalis and my herd to steal the cattle. This was enough ! 
 As the Waelgejo now also began to shoot at us from above 
 with arrows, we fired among them, whereby three of 
 them were killed; whereupon the rest quickly dis- '"'™''** 
 appeared behind boulders of rock to the right. "We succeeded 
 in getting hold of at least one of the guides, whom we secured 
 with cords, to compel him in this manner to show us the last 
 ascent. 
 
 From behind their rocky screens, the Waelgejo continued 
 their war-howl and their shooting with arrows, which, however, 
 was entirely without result. I contented myself with firing off 
 my double-barrelled rifle, for which I had still five hundred 
 ■cartridges, in their direction every now and then, to The easy 
 keep the horde at a distance. The Somalis below had ''"'""^y- 
 also very soon put their opponents to the rout ; and, after wait- 
 ing an hour, I had the satisfaction of seeing not only my 
 herd, but also the remaining camel and the donkeys make their 
 appearance at our halting-place. 
 
 We now went onwards towards the last rocky ascent. The 
 guide had to show us the approach, willingly or unwillingly, and 
 we began to climb upward step by step. Unfortunately, how- 
 «ver, in spite of my warning, he suddenly sprang aside from the 
 rocky path right into the depth, clinging to the bushes, in an 
 attempt at flight. One of my people shot down at him, . 
 and so, to my regret, this Elgejo man fell also ; for rigibie 
 which I was the more sorry, as we knew the way now, ^"^ '" 
 and the skirmish with his fellow-tribesmen might be considered 
 as ended. 
 
 At length we had gained the summit, and before us, on the 
 heights of Elgejo, at an elevation of 2700 feet, lay a thick forest 
 of juniper trees, into which a path led. Here I halted, to wait 
 for the whole column. Gradually the porters came panting 
 along, and I had to send them back immediately to ^^^^^ ^^ 
 bring up the burdens of the animals. It was reported the last 
 
 I 1 • 1 camel. 
 
 to me that the camel had unfortunately stuck m the 
 narrow path, and could neither be moved forward nor back. I 
 
 19 
 
290 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 was obliged to give the order to have its throat cut, to prevent 
 it from falling into the hands of the ^\'aelgejo, and to make 
 room for the column. After two hours of strenuous labour all 
 of us were at the top. 
 
 Under us, at a dizzy depth, lay the settlements of the 
 Waelgejo, from whom we were now delivered ; before us the 
 wood, which must lead us to the Angata na Nyuki. Forward, 
 therefore, on the path, at whose entrance we were encamped, 
 and which, in the meantime, I had already had inspected by 
 A difficult Rukua and a Somali. The road was rendered much 
 path. more difficult by a kind of sharp stinging nettle, which 
 hung across it on both sides. But half an hour brought us to 
 the opposite end, and now there lay before us the Angata na 
 Nyuki, which separates Elgejo from Kawirondo. The afternoon 
 was grey and cold, as in the Highlands of Scotland. Now and 
 then a slight shower of rain descended upon us, and a cold 
 autumnal wind whistled from the north across the steppe that 
 lay spread before us. 
 
 This day I encamped a couple of miles further on, at the 
 edge of a thick wood. We found no water to-day, but I 
 descried a black swampy ground, out of which my people 
 pressed a liquid, that though sufficiently sandy, yet made it 
 possible for us at least to boil soup and meat in the evening, 
 and to drink a cup of tea. 
 
 Next morning we proceeded in a due westerly direction up 
 to the completely bare Angata na Nyuki (red plain). To the 
 right, just in the north, we sighted the Ischibscharagnani, and 
 March to ^^^^ *° *^® right, in the north-west, the Elgon, the two 
 the Angata corresponding mountains to the Kenia and Subugu la 
 Poron on the other side of the Baringo Falls. This 
 Angata na Nyuki, in its whole character and structure, exactly 
 corresponds to the Leikipia Plateau, which it even somewhat 
 exceeds in elevation. The equivalent to Kikuyu, which 
 stretches beyond the Leikipia in the south, is furnished on this 
 side by the land of Wandi in the south. The whole enormous 
 ridge gradually declines towards the west, towards the Victoria 
 Nyanza, to about 4,000 feet, and to any one who traverses it 
 
DESERT REGION OF ANGATA NA NYUKl. 291 
 
 with an observant eye the unity of its geological character 
 becomes indisputably apparent. The action of the expansive 
 central forces, which have thrown it upward in immeasurably 
 distant times, must be acknowledged in the Baringo territory. 
 
 But whereas the Leikipia Plateau had been peopled by 
 human beings, here in the Angata na Nyuki we came into an 
 entirely uninhabited region. Not so very long ago there lived 
 here tribes related to the Wakamasia and Waelgejo. These 
 have been exterminated, to the last man, by the a deserted 
 southern Massai tribes, and at this day the empty """''t'^y' 
 steppe is traversed only by the flying feet of great herds of 
 antelopes and zebras, and by the rhinoceros and buffalo. Each 
 rising and each declivity appears in clear outlines through the 
 transparent air. Before us, on the horizon, rise the Surrongai 
 Hills, which we shall have to traverse to reach Kawirondo. 
 
 A dreamy feeling steals over the heart in this magnificent 
 solitude ; a solitude only broken once in a couple of years by 
 a caravan wending towards the west. Yonder is the ^^^^^ g^jj_ 
 Elgon, apparently so tangibl)^ near that it seems as tude of 
 if we might get to it in a few hours. Does it not seem 
 to look scornfully and contemptuously down upon us puny 
 mortals, and to ask what we are seeking here, where Eternity 
 itself has set up its habitation, and gazes down upon us ? 
 
 In Elgon, according to Thomson, there are to be found 
 singular cave structures, which led him to conjecture that ages 
 ago a civilised people had laboured here. What a historical 
 past has once run its course on this marvellous scene ! Are 
 they the voices of old hero-races that speak to us in the 
 strange accents of the north wind sweeping across the plain ? 
 
 We have now emerged from the dry zone. The clouds are 
 fantastically piled up on the horizon, and press forward with the 
 storm over the Angata na Nyuki. Daily the dark heaven pours 
 down its waters in heavy showers of rain upon the violent 
 thirsty earth, which is already becoming overspread thundei- 
 with a new freshly green surface of grass. Like the »t'"^°'=- 
 rolling of drums, the heavy raindrops fall pelting down upon the 
 tents, and the organ pipe of the wind sounds among the reeds 
 
292 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 on the river's brink. In Nature more violent combats are ex- 
 hibited. The firmament rolls its stormy clouds together, to call 
 forth the dark forces in the womb of the earth. Threateningly 
 the cloud army is marshalled onward, and flash upon flash of 
 lightning darts across the dark plain, now blinding white, now 
 glittering blue, and, like the discharge of cannon, roll peal upon 
 peal the short, echoless thunder-claps ; and we have now, every 
 evening, the opportunity of observing the spectacle of the sheet 
 lightning flashing before us in the south-west, from the region 
 of the Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 The temperature is cool and agreeable. The nights are not 
 so cold as on the Leikipia Plateau, and, on the other hand, the 
 ■days are less hot. We have almost the temperature of northern 
 Europe during the latter half of September. The water question 
 has also assumed a satisfactory appearance. 
 
 Already on the first day we came to a southern tributary 
 of the Nsoia, and the farther we marched towards the west the 
 Success and Hiore quickly did brook succeed to brook, so that we had 
 good spirits. Qf^gjj to cross about a dozen of them on one morning. 
 The cares of the weeks we have left behind us are flown, and 
 the soul can look into itself with tranquillity. 
 
 Yonder before us, in the north-west, to the left of Elgon, 
 opens the gate which might lead us to the lands of Emin Pasha. 
 How if we were to press forward directly towards it ? The temp- 
 tation is sufficiently strong, but we are still entirely without 
 intelligence of what may have happened, in the interval, in the 
 Equatorial Province ; and, on the other hand, Kawirondo beckons 
 us, and the mysterious form of the white man, of whom we 
 have been told in Kamasia. Forward, therefore, in a direct 
 line, towards the Surrongai Mountains ! 
 
 I was startled out of such lucubrations as these, on the 
 Angata na Nyuki, by a dream that had about it almost the 
 character of clairvoyance. As a general thing, I dream little 
 or not at all ; but already, on the Upper Tana, I had had three 
 times one and the same dream, which was bound to influence 
 my frame of mind, if not my decision. Three times, on the 
 Upper Tana, when the continuous barrier of the river began to 
 
A REMARKABLE DREAM. 293 
 
 tire us all out, I had dreamt that I had given up the expedition 
 at this stage, that I had marched back to Mombas, and was 
 now in Germany. On each of the three occasions, the a curious 
 first joy at meeting my friends again in my native ^"^ea"!- 
 country had been succeeded by an exceedingly painful feeling, 
 because the expedition had been interrupted here in the midst ; 
 and immediately a lively wish had arisen, to take it up again 
 where it had been abandoned. Each time I had awoke with the 
 anxious feeling, — How shall I again get through the blockade 
 into the interior, and to the place from which I returned home P 
 On the Angata na Nyuki I lay sleeping one night, and dreamt 
 I was in the place where, in fact, I had encamped that day, but 
 that the appearance of Africa had changed. I was not in my 
 tent, but in a stone house, which had been built by Germans, 
 and where, besides the Government architect, Hoernecke, there 
 dwelt some other engineers and several ladies. I entered the 
 house, mentioned my name, and told how we had come here 
 after heavy combats against the Massais, and that I proposed to 
 march to Emin Pasha. I was received very amiably by all, but 
 to my last observation they replied unanimously, "To Emin 
 Pasha ! But he is in Berlin. How is it you are seek- -^^^ ^ 
 ing for Emin Pasha here in Central Africa ? " — I said, conversa- 
 "Emin Pasha is in Berlin? But what are you doing 
 here?" — "Do you not know that either? We are here to 
 build a railway to Uganda." — " And what is Emin Pasha doing 
 in Berlin ? "— " He has left the Equatorial Province long ago." 
 — " I do not believe that. At any rate, I must ascertain that 
 at the place itself." 
 
 During this last part of our conversation we continually 
 heard a discontented growling, as of something supernatural. 
 It was as though a ghostly thing were rushing onward, nearer 
 and nearer. 
 
 In the perturbation it occasioned I awoke, and found mysslf 
 in the midst of one of the tropical rain-showers of which I have 
 spoken. 
 
 Thus ended this dream, which made a certain lasting im- 
 pression on my fancy. This is not the place to touch upon the 
 
294 XE]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 secret of dream- life ; but perhaps it may occur now and then 
 that the enigmatical power which surrounds and enfolds life 
 can, in certain situations, exert an influence in this manner on 
 the resolutions of individuals. 
 
 As a landmark for my march, I had, from the very first day, 
 chosen a lofty eminence in the Surrongai Hills, which, in con- 
 trast to the other heights, looked quite white, and manifestly 
 A useful formed the eastern projection of these mountains. The 
 landmark, ^yhitc colour arose, as I afterwards ascertained, from the 
 fact that the grass on the other hills had been burnt up, and 
 only remained on this one. 
 
 On January 22nd we crossed the Guaso Marim, and on 
 the following day we entered the Surrongai Hills themselves. 
 The Angata na Nyuki becomes more and more luxuriant the 
 further we advance to the west. Towards the west, also, are 
 glorious stretches of wood, and by the courses of the springs 
 we again, after a long time, came upon the fan palm. The 
 number of game animals increases more and more. Herds of 
 Enorm us ^^^ff^'^o, to be couuted by thousands, — or, I may say, 
 lerds of teus of thousauds of head, — graze by the margin of the 
 ■ forest, rushing off in a thundering gallop when the rifle 
 bullet crashes in among them. On January 24th I shot five 
 buffaloes, which all fell, though I could only secure one ..gigantic 
 specimen, as a pursuit, even of a quarter of an hour, would 
 have been too great an interruption to the business of the expe- 
 dition. To give my people time to cut up the great beast, I 
 set up my camp at noon near the western slope of the Surrongai 
 Hills, once more halting this side of Kawirondo. 
 
 It was a dull, rainy day, but we were all in a state of 
 joyous excitement ; for now we knew for certain that next 
 morning we should reach the fruitful land of Kawirondo, 
 where we hoped to receive news concerning the object of 
 our expedition. 
 
 Just before two o'clock, four Wandorobbo suddenly ap- 
 peared at my camp. I invited them to stay the night with 
 us, and on the next day to show us a convenient way down 
 into Kawirondo, which was situated at a considerably lower 
 
THE DESCENT TO KAWIRONDO. 29-5 
 
 level. On this daj'-, January 25th, it was proved that the 
 course I had pursued, without alteration from Elgeio, „ 
 
 . 1 ' . - & J ' Fortunate 
 
 had been entirely the right one. In an almost direct route to 
 line we struck Kabaras, having deviated from the 
 chief town only half a mile, towards the north. 
 
 A march of three-quarters of an hour brought us to-day, 
 first to the edge of the Surrongai Mountains, and then we all 
 at once beheld before us the villages and plantations of Kawi- 
 rondo, from among which cheerful, fair-promising clouds of 
 smoke rose towards the sky. 
 
 The Wandorobbo accurately pointed out the chief place of 
 Kabaras, and then begged permission to return, as they were at 
 war with the Kawirondo people. I granted their request. 
 
 We had now before us the difficult task of finding a way 
 down to the lower ground. The Angata na Nyuki here forms 
 an almost perpendicular wall of 1,400 feet, and, at first sight, 
 it seemed impossible to commence the descent. Twice we were 
 obliged to turn back, because again and again there were a difficult 
 places where the descent was literally perpendicular, and »<!ra"i''ie- 
 which were impassable. At last I discovered a more gradual 
 slope ; and here, going on in advance with the Somali Omar 
 Idle, I found a way for my caravan, first over loose rocks, and 
 then through grass as tall as a man. 
 
 Within two hours, all had arrived below, and I now resumed 
 my march exactly in a western direction, according to a land- 
 mark I had fixed upon above. I marched till nearly three in 
 the afternoon, and halted when I found myself by the side of 
 a stream, opposite the first plantations of the Wakawirondo. 
 According to my custom, I wished to meet the inhabitants of 
 the country for the first time, not with a weary and hungry 
 caravan, but on the next morning, with one refreshed by rest. 
 
 I had marched in advance, with Rukua, Hussein, and two 
 other Somalis, and I now sent two Somalis back to bring up 
 my people. It was more than an hour before they succeeded in 
 bringing in the herd, and it was almost six o'clock when Rukua, 
 whom I sent off later, managed to find the porters and Herr 
 von Tiedemann, who had lost their way, and branched off in a 
 
296 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 wrong direction to the south. There was just enough time to 
 set up the tents before it grew dark, and then the usual stormy 
 rain came splashing down upon us. But the kitchen was under 
 a tent-roof, and so we could enjoy a strengthening 
 under soup and some roast mutton, — each of us separately, 
 ■ however, as Herr von Tiedemann was still ill ; and 
 afterwards over a pipe, while the rain, now more gentle and 
 melodious, continued to fall, we gave ourselves up to pleasant 
 contemplation of the improved prospects of our expedition. 
 
 A short march of hardly half an hour brought us, next 
 morning, to the first villages of the people of Kabaras. I fired 
 off two shots as a greeting, and then, with the flag borne in 
 advance, we marched with beat of drum upon the capital, 
 Kabaras, a place encircled by a wall of clay, at the northern 
 entrance of which sat the elders, ready to give us a friendly 
 welcome. " Jambo Sdna ! " was the cry. We turned off to the 
 left outside the town, and under some mighty cotton trees, a 
 little below the southern enclosure of Kabaras, we pitched our 
 camp. 
 
 My first enquiry was naturally after the white man in 
 News of Kawirondo. "Are there any white men in Ka- 
 
 wMtemen. ^ondo .P " 
 
 " Yes," was the simultaneous reply of all. 
 
 " How many ? " 
 
 " Some say two, and others four." 
 
 " Have the white men many soldiers ? " 
 
 " Yes, a very great number, and every morning they blow 
 the trumpet, just as you do." 
 
 " Do you know the names of the white men ? Is one of 
 them called Emin Pasha ? And are Turkis among them ? " 
 
 " Emin Pasha ? We don't know him." 
 
 " Where do the white men come from ? Do they come from 
 the coast, or have they come from the interior ? " 
 
 " They have come from the south, round the Nyanza." 
 
 " Then perhaps their leader is called Stanley ? " 
 
 " Yes, yes, quite right, Stamuley." 
 
 These questions I addressed repeatedly to several of the 
 
" TO ANY EUROPEAN GENTLEMAN." 297 
 
 Wakawirondo, and always got the same answer, "Yes, cer- 
 tainly, Stamuley. They have also cattle with them— a great 
 herd, and their head man is called Stamuley ! " 
 
 That was certainly a very notable piece of news for us. 
 Could Stanley, of whose movements I knew nothing further 
 than that he had marched back, the first time, from Mwutan 
 Nzige to the Congo, perhaps have marched to the Victoria 
 Nyanza by the Udidji Tabora road, and from thence to 
 Kawirondo, to get in touch with Emin Pasha from that place ; 
 or was Emin Pasha with him, though perchance the natives 
 did not know the Pasha's name ? 
 
 I immediately sat down, and wrote the following letter: — 
 
 "Kabaras, January 2Qth, 1890. 
 
 " SiR,^On my arrival here this morning I got news, that 
 Europeans are in Kwa Sundu. As I shall arrive at 
 
 Letter to a 
 
 Kwa Sundu on Wednesday or Thursday next, I shall possible 
 be charmed to meet any gentleman who may be at "'^"p®*''' 
 that place, and shall be obliged for a line to tell me whom 
 I may have the pleasure to see. 
 
 " I have the honour. Sir, to be, yours truly, 
 
 " Dr. Gael Peters. 
 " To any European gentleman who may be in Kwa Sundu or 
 in Kawirondo." 
 
 This letter I immediately sent off by the two Somalis, 
 Sameter and Jama Ismael, with a Kawirondo man for a guide, 
 to Kwa Sundu, with orders to send me the answer to Kwa 
 Sakwa, to which place I intended to march next day. 
 
 Meanwhile I observed, with real interest, the remarkable 
 figures of the Kawirondo people, who crowded into my camp. 
 In great gourd bottles they brought grain of all kinds, ^^^ g^^._ 
 and honey, besides eggs, fowls, and milk. The men are rondo 
 clothed with an apron, but the ladies of the land are as 
 unclad as possible ; a remarkable contrast to the Massailands, 
 where exactly the reverse was the case. Only the married 
 women wore an apron of very limited size, and had also rings 
 
298 
 
 .Y/-:ir LinuT ox davk afjuca. 
 
 oil tln'ir ;ir]iis niul k\i>s and in their ears, and cliains aliout their 
 iiecl;s. The inmiarried j^irls went abont exactly as Heaven liad 
 made them. 
 
 Mingied with the L'antii jjopnlation are here to he tiniiKh 
 
 Wakawieosdo. 
 
 everywhere, fragments of the once mighty Earingo-x\Iassai trihe, 
 called Wakuafi, who were driven ont trom the Angata na Nyuki 
 by the Southern Massais. Here they generally do landskneclit- 
 service for the native sultans, and, in fact, supply the principal 
 warrior contingent f jr the whole of Kawirondo. 
 
-VAXyEBS OF THE WAKAWIBOXDO. 
 
 299 
 
 Thomson has much to tell of the danger of his position in 
 Kawn-oudo. He was veiy apprehensive of being killed. I must 
 confess that we experienced no anxieties of the kind, among 
 these simple and sociable ix^oiile. In fact, it was true 
 
 , , .1 4 , . T- \ \ ■ , ' Mr. Thom- 
 
 Avtiat the Arabs m Kapte had said, one could go (_»ut son's 
 walking here without arms, and only with a walking- °^'"'°''- 
 stick. Among the Massais themselves, Thomson had exhibited 
 
 p''" 
 
 Wakawikoxdo. 
 
 a good nature of which I have alread}' spoken. That this good 
 nature did not altogether emanate from the Christian feeling of 
 love for oue's neighbour, in pursuance of the command to offer 
 the right cheek when the left is smitten, Th(jmson manifests 
 by the description of his behaviour towards the 31assais in 
 Kawirondo, in his work entitled "Among the Massai." He 
 tells how the Wakawirondo attempted the same insolent bragga- 
 docio and arros;ance, but how he soon made them understand 
 
300 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 that what he had put up with from the Massais in tlieir own 
 country, he would not endure from them ; and further acknow- 
 ledges that, from a certain desire of vengeance, long suppressed, 
 it gave him no small satisfaction to encounter those rascals 
 wrathfuU}', when any one of them tried his patience ; and that 
 his people were equally charmed to have it out with them, and 
 to threaten, with tremendous objurgations, to inflict unspeakable 
 torments upon them. 
 
 I have also always found the Massais in Kawirondo quite 
 well behaved with respect to us, and was not obliged, on a 
 single occasion, to repel insolence on their part. 
 
 The luxurious plenty in food, in this country, had a per- 
 fectly inspiring effect on us and my people. The fowls were 
 fat and tender, and three of them were scarcely sufficient to 
 satisfy the appetite of one of us at breakfast, so strong was 
 the craving of our bodies, after the toils of the last months, 
 A land of to patch themselves up anew. The honey was perfectly 
 plenty. ^yhite, like sugar, and deliciously fragrant of flowers. 
 We had also milk and eggs, which latter were eaten in the 
 poached, and especially in the omelet form. Beans and corn, 
 and grain fruits of all kinds, eaten with milk, as porridge, or 
 with strong gravy as a concomitant of meat, formed an agree- 
 able change from our ordinary meat diet ; and glorious bananas, 
 eaten raw, or baked in fat and sugar, made a capital dessert. 
 The whole world appeared in new colours ; and then, the 
 mysterious white men were in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 On January 27th we celebrated the Emperor's birthday by 
 a special dinner, and with beat of drum we went, on the 28th, 
 with our guide in advance, on well-made paths, towards the 
 south. The landscape put on a more and more cultivated 
 appearance, with villages close to each other, and well-fed herds 
 of oxen to be seen in the meadows. When we marched past, a 
 settlement of people would come and offer corn, milk, and honey 
 Fear of the for Sale. Here the reputation of the conquerors of the 
 Massais. Massais produced its full etfect. I dare to assert that 
 on the strength of this fact we were more popular in Kawirondo 
 than in any other part of our march, for here the Massais are 
 
INTERVIEW WITH WANGWANA. 301 
 
 sufficiently known in all their brutal cruelty and dangerous 
 wildness. 
 
 Between two villages, on a lovely declivity in a richly- 
 cultivated plain, I pitched my camp on this day, and unfurled 
 the great flag of the expedition at the margin of the slope, so 
 that it was visible over the whole landscape. 
 
 Scarcely had I had the tents set up, when suddenly shots 
 were fired in the low ground beneath us, and directly 
 
 afterwards five men, clad in white shirts, came hurrying from the 
 up at full speed, with friendly greetings. 
 
 " There come the messengers from the white men ! " said 
 the Wakawirondo, and forthwith the newcomers were led by 
 my Somalis in front of my chair. 
 
 " Who are you ? " I enquired. 
 
 ""W'e are Wangwana from the coast, and these are the sons 
 and the people of the Sultan Sakwa, of Kawirondo. The Sultan 
 sends us to bid you welcome to his country." 
 
 "What white men are there in Kawirondo, and what do 
 you know about them P " 
 
 ' " They are Englishmen— Mr. Jackson, Mr. Martin, and two 
 more." 
 
 " How long have they been here ? " 
 
 " For many months ; but a short time ago they went to 
 Elgumi, and farther up, to shoot elephants." 
 
 " What are they doing here ? " 
 
 " They have made a station in Kwa Sundu, and are buying 
 ivory. Messengers have come to them, too, from Uganda, but 
 in Uganda there is war, and no one can go there. The Arabs 
 have driven away Muanga, and killed all the Christians. The 
 Englishmen do not like to go into this country." 
 
 " Are they friends with your Sultan ? " 
 
 " Sakwa, our Sultan, is great and rich. He does not love 
 the people who come here to buy ivory and shoot ^^j^^p^,.. 
 game. Sakwa loves the thorough people who under- tant oon- 
 
 ^ • 1 1 i xi_ verBation. 
 
 stand war. We know that you. Sir, have beaten the 
 Massais, and therefore Sakwa will be your friend. He sends us 
 to announce this to you, and invites you to march to-morrow 
 
302 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 to his residence at Kwa Sakwa, to make a station there ; Sakwa 
 will not have the English, he loves the Germans. But whither 
 are you journeying ? " 
 
 "I am journeying into the land of the Turki, to Emin 
 Pasha. Have you any tidings of him ? " 
 
 " The Turki are said to he yonder " (pointing to the north), 
 "hut they are very far away. We have no tidings of them. 
 Emin Pasha we do not know." 
 
 " Do you know the way to Unjoro P " 
 
 " Unjoro is very far off; we do not know the way there. 
 Six years ago a white man came here ; he wanted to go to 
 Uganda, hut the Waganda killed all his people. The Waganda 
 are very bad, and none of us go out in that direction." 
 
 " Send messengers back to your Sultan, and tell him I shall 
 come to him to-morrow ; that I want to go to Uganda, and 
 come as a friend. Everything else I will talk over with him 
 personally to-morrow." 
 
 So now we had the explanation concerning our white men in 
 Kawirondo ; and, in truth, it was the nascitur ridiculus mus. 
 We had come across the Jackson Emin Pasha Expedition, 'and 
 probably the people of Kabaras had heard the name of 
 " Stanley," with whom this expedition was to co-operate, 
 mentioned in it. 
 
 The following days would bring us further explanations, and 
 therefore for to-day we entirely refrained from conjecture. 
 
 Next morning we proceeded in a south-west direction over 
 some high ranges. Everywhere we saw enormous herds of 
 The sakwa's cattle. "All those belong to the Sakwa," said the 
 possessions, glides. The Massais who tended the cattle hurried up 
 to greet us respectfully, and after we had crossed an affluent of 
 the Nsoia, all at once the great red walls and the lofty gates 
 of Kwa Sakwa rose before us, not like a village, but like a 
 town. 
 
 A dense crowd came streaming out of the gate towards us, 
 and I was immediately informed that the Sultan himself, with 
 his brothers, was coming to meet us, to give us suitable greet- 
 ing. But as I did not sufficiently know the intentions of these 
 
ARRIVAL AT K^YA SAKWA. 303 
 
 people, I gave orders to have the firearms ready for action, for 
 whatever might happen. 
 
 Thus in close order we marched towards the north-east 
 gate of the town. About three hundred j'ards to the right, by 
 the wayside, was a gigantic tree, and under this tree Sakwa sat 
 with his people. A great bronze chain hung round his neck, 
 and his arms were profusely ornamented with artistic copper 
 rings. He carried a lance in his right hand, and a shirt of a 
 cotton fabric covered his body. When I marched towards him, 
 he rose from his seat, with all his following, and strode towards 
 me with his hand extended. Hand in hand we then moved 
 with ceremonious gravity towards the entrance gate of Kwa 
 Sakwa. A wide ditch surrounds the walls of the place, over 
 which a dam leads to the gate. On entering the en- The town 
 closure, the stranger first comes upon a great open "* sakwa. 
 space, surrounded by the houses of the war garrison of the 
 place. From thence he comes to a second great space, which 
 is surrounded, in a wide circle, by the many houses of the 
 sultan. All these houses are full of hundreds of women, in 
 whose midst he himself dwells. The king pointed out to me 
 that this place belonged to me. I might either dwell in his 
 houses, or have my tents set up. At the same time he pointed 
 to two fat oxen, that were to be my food for to-day, and every 
 morning, so long as I stayed there, two other oxen would be 
 ready for us. Then brown beer was brought for us in great 
 jugs, and to this were added honey, eggs, poultry, and milk, 
 as well as golden yellow bananas. Soon houses had been 
 prepared for my people ; the tents were set up, and at the hour 
 of noon the black, white, and red flag waved for the first time 
 in the midst of Kwa Sakwa. 
 
 Scarcely had I established myself comfortably in my tent, 
 and bathed and shaved, as I was accustomed to do every day 
 so soon as the march was ended, when a sudden firing portera 
 of guns from the southern gate announced a new visit, ^l^^ll^ 
 Porters belonging to the English expedition came to expedition, 
 welcome us, and from them I received more definite informa- 
 tion concerning its objects, and especially about Ali Somal, 
 
304 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 who was, they told me, chief of the station, in the absence of 
 the four white men. They said that the expedition had a 
 strength of five hundred porters, and was armed with Reming- 
 tons, and well supplied with ammunition. They had more 
 than fifty loads of cartridges still in stock. 
 
 In the afternoon Ali Somal came over himself from Kwa 
 Sundu to greet us — a young Somali, of intelligent appearance, 
 and almost gentlemanlike bearing, in a completely European 
 garb, who very courteously bad us welcome, and immediately 
 Arrival of Came out with an invitation that we should shift our 
 Ali Somal. quarters, as soon as possible, to his place in the Enghsh 
 station. He said, "Mr. Jackson would be much offended with 
 me if I allowed you to live herewith the Sakwa. He will regret 
 very much that he is absent just now ; but at all events you 
 must wait until he returns." 
 
 " But where has Mr. Jackson gone ? Has he perhaps 
 marched through Elgumi to Emin Pasha P " 
 
 "By no means. If he had gone to Emin Pasha he 
 would certainly have taken me with him. No, he is hunting. 
 He has been hunting for some time — several weeks — yonder 
 on the Elgon, and has killed several elephants, and has 
 probably now marched further to the northward for the same 
 purpose." 
 
 "But if he only wants to hunt, why does he take four 
 hundred and fifty men, and all the white men, to the 
 northward with him ? Has he only come into this region 
 to hunt.P" 
 
 "Not so. We were commissioned to put ourselves in 
 communication with Stanley from this place, to support his 
 expedition in the Nile countries. But Stanley has marched 
 back, by the western side of Lake Victoria, to the coast, and 
 so we could not help him." 
 
 " Stanley has marched off, by the western side of Lake 
 Victoria ? But then he has gone back for the second time to 
 Emin Pasha; and has Emin Pasha perhaps even gone away 
 with him.P" 
 
 "No, Emin Pasha has remained behind in his country. 
 
INFORMATION AND EXPLANATION. 305 
 
 With Stanley another white ' man went southward. Emin 
 Pasha has been at war with the Wangoro, who have . 
 
 ^ Accounts of 
 
 beaten his people, and driven him up towards the Emm 
 north. He is quite alone now in the Equatorial 
 Province, and to reach him from here is impossible." 
 
 " How do you know that ? " 
 
 "Mr. Jackson would have been uncommonly glad to march 
 to Emin Pasha, or at all events to Uganda ; but he might not 
 do this, as all the tribes to the west of us are hostile, and we 
 should simply have gone to our death if we had marched 
 thither. The Wangoro will have nothing to do with the whites, 
 and the Arabs rule in Uganda. The Waganda kill every white 
 man who comes into the country, and an expedition that 
 advances into these regions is lost from the beginning." 
 
 " Have you had news from Uganda ? " 
 
 " Yes, repeatedly. The people of the last Waganda depu- 
 tation are at present still in my camp, and you can question 
 them yourself. The Christians of Uganda have already sent to 
 us several times, asking us to bring help to them, and then 
 they would accept the English flag ; but Mr. Jackson has always 
 declined this, saying he was too weak for it. Wait for Mr. 
 Jackson ; he will relate all this to you more clearly himself. 
 In fourteen days he must be back." 
 
 " I cannot wait here for fourteen days, for in a few days I 
 shall march away from here to the west." 
 
 " You intend to march from here to the west ? " 
 
 " Most certainly. If Emin Pasha is alone in his province 
 now, he has the more need of help." 
 
 " But to go to the west is quite impossible. You will be 
 leading yourself and all your people to death. Emin Pasha has 
 been beaten, and is no longer what he was." 
 
 "If Emin Pasha has been beaten, he needs help all the 
 more. Moreover, how do you know for certain that an advance 
 to the west is impracticable ? 
 
 "We have good intelligence from every quarter. I can 
 show you the letters from Uganda itself, if you care to see them. 
 You will then see it all yourself, and give up the plan of leading 
 
 20 
 
306 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 all your people to destruction. I have an especial interest 
 in this, as there are twelve brothers of my own in your expedi- 
 tion, whose lives I would wish to save. Read the letters from 
 Uganda yourself to-morrow, and you will say I am right." 
 
 " Very good. Now go to the Somalis, who will give you 
 news from your country. So long as you remain with me in 
 Kwa Sakwa you are my guest." 
 
 "What tidings were these that I received here ? The great 
 English Emin Pasha Expedition had been lying for months past 
 Bewilder- on the borders of the Nile countries, without venturing 
 concerSng ^m advauce in this direction. Emin Pasha beaten by 
 ^™^°- the Wangoro, and remaining behind, solitary at his post, 
 while his white companion (evidently Casati) had gone away 
 with Stanley to the coast ! Uganda in the hands of the Arabs, 
 and Kaba-Rega, whom, from Emin's description, I knew to be 
 his faithful friend, now the enemy of the Europeans and of 
 Emin himself! It will be understood that I was excited to the 
 utmost degree by these tidings, whose authenticity we had no 
 reason to doubt. But out of the chaos of my feelings the soli- 
 tary figure of Emin Pasha rose again and again, amid a world 
 of hostile powers, forsaken by all, assailed by the Mahdi in the 
 north and the Wangoro in the south, with nothing left before 
 his eyes but ruin, and, as it appeared to us, resolved to en- 
 counter it. How could we for a moment waver in our deter- 
 mination, now more than ever, to hasten to him, either to give 
 him help, or, if it must be, to fall with him ? 
 
 But let us first wait to see what the next day will bring in 
 the way of further explanations. It brought, in the first place, 
 a peculiar request on the part of the Sultan Sakwa. Early in 
 the morning he appeared in front of my tent, to make me the 
 following proposal : — 
 
 " Two hours to the north of this place," said he, " dwells 
 the robber tribe of the Mangati, in a land which we call Ngoro. 
 These people are continually making inroads into my territory, 
 threatening my herds, and burning down my villages. They 
 have laid waste the whole west, from the Nsoia River. I have 
 begged the English repeatedly to beat back these Mangati, and 
 
PROPOSAL TO FIGHT THE JfANGATI. 307 
 
 offered, if they would do this, to accept their flag for Kawirondo. 
 But the English are people of fear ; they have shut themselves 
 up in their stations, and are afraid of the strife with the Man- 
 gati. Now you Germans are come, you who have proposal of 
 beaten the Massais themselves, I will give you all my ^'^^ ^""*^- 
 Askaris. You shall then beat the Mangati, and I will accept 
 your flag, and give you half of the cattle that shall be taken 
 from the Mangati," 
 
 " But what have I to do with the Mangati ? I have no 
 thought of fighting with the Mangati. We have been obliged 
 to fight with the Massais because they attacked us first. We 
 Germans, in fact, only fight when we are attacked, or when 
 people are attacked who are under our protection." 
 
 " Well, we will come under your protection. You shall be 
 our lord if you beat the Mangati for us." 
 
 " Even if I wished to do you that favour, I could not at the 
 present moment. I must march to the west, to a great white 
 man who lives there. If I shoot away my cartridges here, how 
 am I to get to my friend on the Nile ? " 
 
 " You cannot get to the Nile, anyway. There dwell the 
 Waganda, who are very bad, and kill every one who comes to 
 them. A little while ago a white man was among us here, who 
 also wanted to march into those lands. The Waganda killed 
 him and all his people." 
 
 " But are the Wasoga as bad, too ? If I march on this 
 side of the Nile, through Usoga, and afterwards on this side 
 of the river past Unjoro, I have no occasion to fear the 
 Waganda." 
 
 " The Wasoga and the Waganda are just the same," said he. 
 "The Wasoga are slaves of the Mfalme (king) of Uganda, and 
 must do everything he tells them." 
 
 " But by the time the news of our marching through arrives 
 at Uganda we shall have long passed Usoga ; and if the 
 Wasoga hinder us in doing so, we will beat them just as we 
 have beaten the Massais." 
 
 " In Usoga there are many Waganda, and they have there 
 very many guns. All the tribes behind you you could beat. 
 
308 NEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA. 
 
 but if you attempt to make war on the Waganda and the 
 Report on Wasoga, j'ou Will perlsh. Beat the Mangati for us, 
 Indwa^'^^and accept our hospitality. Meanwhile, we will send 
 ganda. tidings to the white man. If he is as great as you say, 
 he will send you soldiers, so that you may come safely to him. 
 We know very well that yonder, towards the sinking sun, the 
 Turki dwell, and that they have many guns. If their sultan is 
 a white man, wait here for news from him, and then you will 
 get to him safely." 
 
 " I have now understood all your words. Go now, and leave 
 me alone, that I may refer it to my God. This afternoon I will 
 give you my answer." 
 
 The alluring part of Sakwa's offer was that by accepting it 
 I should be sure of being strongly backed from Kawirondo. If 
 we beat the Mangati, our credit towards the west would also be 
 considerably increased ; and this, again, might possibly be 
 decisive in the matter of our march to Usoga. On the other 
 hand, it was not in accordance with my principles to attack, 
 under the German flag, a tribe that had not first committed 
 acts of hostility towards us. Accordingly, I resolved 
 acceptance that while I would give support to the Sultan in 
 
 lance. p^^^^j^g (Jq^^ ^he plundering tribe in the south, I 
 would not allow the German flag, or any one of us white men, 
 to have a part in the affair. 
 
 I granted him, for the next morning, thirty -five men, under 
 the leadership of Hussein, with the stipulation that, on his side, 
 he should also put under Hussein's command all his Askaris, 
 his Massais, and his Bantu, and should give them an oppor- 
 tunity of pushing forward to the Mangati that very night, that 
 they might attack their foes, and beat them next morning before 
 sunrise. 
 
 Sakwa acquiesced in everything ; but, as the negroes do, he 
 only half fulfilled his promises. Instead of Hussein's being 
 Sakwa's Conducted to meet the enemy between four and five 
 politeness, o'clock, as I had demanded, it was between seven and 
 eight before they reached Ngoro, which was not four, but 
 between six and eight miles distant. 
 
DEFEAT OF THE HANG ATI. 309 
 
 The Mangati had taken the alarm, had driven their herds 
 to the rear, and were awaiting my people in order of battle. 
 A very obstinate and even murderous combat ensued, 
 
 1 • 1 TT ■ • n ^ , The best 
 
 m which Hussem committed a fault, by not fol- tactics in 
 lowing the tactics we had always put in practice, *^'''"'^- 
 of advancing with a " Hurrah ! " after a few volleys, but 
 still cautiously, and keeping distance, and thus routing the 
 foe. 
 
 The whole morning we heard the lively rattle of the per- 
 cussion guns, and the sharper ring of the long barrels ; and we 
 also saw the flames rising from some villages in the south. 
 
 Towards three o'clock in the afternoon the soldiers of 
 Sakwa were the first to come marching back in great bodies, 
 each some hundreds strong, singing a harsh war-song, with a 
 rhythmic measure, something like the following, " Hu, hu, hu, 
 hu, hu ! hu, hu, hu, hu, hu ! " and then my people came march- 
 ing home, intoning their own war-song. The Mangati . 
 had indeed been thoroughly beaten, had lost two villages return of 
 and fifty-six men ; but Hussein had not succeeded in 
 getting possession of herds of cattle, and the expedition's store 
 of cartridges, already greatly lessened before this combat, had 
 by it been reduced to the utmost. I had now only forty to 
 fifty cartridges per man for the repeating rifles, and, into the 
 bargain, we had several men wounded. On the other hand, all 
 Kawirondo was certainly full of admiration of our little troop, 
 and this was speedily communicated towards the west as far 
 as Uganda. That same evening, Sakwa brought oxen to be 
 slaughtered for my people, and on the following afternoon hoisted 
 the great black, white, and red flag, on a hill in his capital, on 
 a flagstaff" fifty feet high. His wives performed dances in honour 
 of us. 
 
 But, after all, what did this signify, compared to the fact 
 that we had so few cartridges left, and with this reduced strength 
 were now to march away into the dangerous territory of the 
 Nile ? 
 
 The treaty which I concluded with Sakwa on February 1st 
 was in the following words : — 
 
310 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " Sultan Sakwa, of Kawirondo, begs Dr. Carl Peters for 
 his flag. He acknowledges Dr. Peters unreservedly as his 
 lord. 
 
 "Dr. Carl Peters promises to protect Sultan Sakwa according 
 to his power, and to help him in the conquest of the 
 with Sultan whole of Kawiroudo, so far as is consonant with Dr. 
 Peters's other plans. 
 
 " Sultan Sakwa solemnly hoists the German flag to-day in 
 his capital. Both parties complete this treaty by the signatures 
 of witnesses. 
 
 " Dk. Carl Peters. 
 
 " Mark of the Sultan of Witu. 
 
 Witnesses 
 
 Son of the Sviltan Lutonia, Wasua. 
 Brother of the Sultan, Kueju. 
 Son of the Sultan, Sanialute. 
 Htissein Fara, leader of the Somali ; and 
 " Musa, headman of the porters." 
 
 On the basis of this treaty, I left with the Sultan the follow- 
 ing letter for the English : — 
 
 " Sultan Sakwa has asked me for my flag, and I have 
 granted his request, that I may have a support behind me for 
 my further advance to Emin Pasha. Sultan Sakwa has accorded 
 to me that he will look on his place as my property, for the 
 purposes of my expedition, and for any other plans 
 plaining I may have in this part of Africa. I accordingly 
 ^ "^^^ ^' declare the land of Kawirondo to be my possession, 
 until I may dispose of it otherwise with the concurrence of 
 Sultan Sakwa. Accordingly I shall deal with any infringe- 
 ment of the rights of Sultan Sakwa as with an infringement 
 of my own rights. 
 
 (Signed) " Dr. Carl Peters." 
 
 Next morning, in spite of the importunate entreaties of 
 Sakwa that I would stay longer, I marched away, with beat of 
 
FORWARn TO THE SOUTH. 
 
 311 
 
 drum, through a well-cultivated country, towards the south, 
 to set up my camp on that day in the English station of 
 Kwa Sundu. Here I should receive definite intbrma- 
 
 <_• • ii , /. , . . , Advance to 
 
 tion concernmg the state ot thmgs m the west, and Kwa 
 could make up my mind accordingly, whether I ^'""'"• 
 might risk the march through Uganda, or whether I had 
 the choice of passing round that country and pushing forward 
 direct upon Unjoro. 
 
 
A/JVANCE rpox rxjoiio 
 AND DEVIATION TO 
 
 UGANDA, TO ASSIST THE 
 CHPJSTIAN PARTY. 
 
 For, with the 
 
 presume , 
 
 Himself to measure.'' 
 
 there sbah no man 
 
 Goethe. 
 
 WE were very soou coni- 
 I'ortablv established iu 
 
 The young sultan received us with a 
 
 Ibrtably est 
 the English station. 
 present of honour of three oxen for slaughtering, though he 
 certainly added to the gift the cool retiuest : We had beaten the 
 Mangati in the vicinity of Kwa Sakwa, and therefore he begged 
 „. ., . that to-morrow we would beat the Manszati in the 
 
 Visit from ... _ ~ . 
 
 the Sultan viciuity of Kwa Suudu. There came, besides, the 
 
 and chiefs, i • ,. ' j-. , ^ r . . . « 
 
 chieis (jt the iViassais m Kawu'oudo, with presents oi 
 honour, and the request to be allowed to enter into the position 
 of a treaty, and into iriendly relations with me. They declared 
 they were all oi' them ready to acknowledge me as their lord 
 antl chief I put them all oft till my return fr(jm tlie Equatorial 
 
I DISTURBANCES IN UGANDA. 313 
 
 Province. So soon, I said, as I had reached my German brother 
 there, I would come back with an increased force, and then we 
 would hold introductory councils on their relation to my tribe. 
 From the written communications laid before me by Ali 
 Soma! I first obtained the following authentic intelligence out 
 of a despatch from Mr. Mackay, dated Usumbiro, 
 August 25th, 1889, to Emin Pasha, which was evi-kay'sde- 
 dently lying here, in the English station, to be for- °^**''''' 
 warded, and I herewith give an extract of the substance of its 
 contents : — 
 
 " Muanga, the son and successor of Mtesas, King of Uganda, 
 developed more and more, in the year 1887, into a malignant 
 tyrant, until in September or October 1888, after he had 
 attempted to murder his guards, most of whom were 
 either Christians or Mahometans, these guards suddenly son of 
 mutinied, and drove him from the throne. The de- 
 throned king escaped in a canoe to the south side of Lake 
 Victoria. 
 
 " A brother of Muanga's, named Kiwewa, was invested with 
 his power, and, in the first instance, proclaimed freedom for all 
 beliefs ; but soon afterwards he turned against the Christians, 
 and, after a slaughter among them, drove them all away. They 
 took refuge in Buragalla (Usagara), which is also The rule of 
 called Ancore, whose king, Antari, received them as '^'"^^^■ 
 colonists. (See on this subject Stanley's ' In Darkest Africa,' 
 vol. ii., ch. 32, pp. 333-37). Only a few escaped in canoes 
 to the south side of the lake, and were received, some by the 
 Romish priests in Ukumbi, and some by the Englishmen in 
 Usumbiro. Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker, as well as the Romish 
 missionaries in Uganda, were kept prisoners for a week, and 
 both the mission stations were plundered and destroyed, and 
 thereupon all missionaries were allowed to leave Uganda in the 
 Christian boat. Naturally, the Arabs were the chief instigators 
 and the principal agents in the overthrowing of the Christian 
 missions ; but they themselves did not long enjoy the favour of 
 Kiwewa. He found them too zealous in their desire to circum- 
 
314 ysW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 cise him, and one day he caused all their chief men, declared 
 Mahometans, to be arrested in Burgah, and with his own hand 
 killed three of their leaders. In some way or another the others, 
 however, got back their freedom immediately afterwards, and 
 now Kiwewa had to fly for his life. 
 
 " Then another brother, named Karema for Kalema), was 
 
 chosen king, and his troops succeeded in annihilating the army 
 
 assembled by Kiwewa. The latter fell into the hands 
 
 Karema *' 
 
 chosen of Karema, and was chained up, and killed. Muanga at 
 first took refuge with the Arabs of Nuya, but after- 
 wards left them, disgusted at the bad treatment he had received, 
 and betook himself to the French in Ukumbi, where he resided 
 until April 1888. Meanwhile Mr. Stokes, formerly a member 
 of the English expedition, now a trader, arrived from the coast 
 with a boat of his own. Muanga pressed him to take him back to 
 Uganda, and to make an attempt to regain his lost throne. 
 The boat was landed in the neighbourhood of the mouth of the 
 RebeiUon Kagcra, where Muanga raised the standard of rebellion, 
 raised by and soou gained a great following, especially among 
 the brotherhood of the banished Christians in Busagala 
 or Ankora. Karema sent a strong army to meet Muanga, and 
 destroyed his warlike force. 
 
 "Muanga himself escaped to the Sesse Islands, where he was 
 acknowledged by the islanders. He once more found himself at 
 the head of a not inconsiderable force, with all the canoes of 
 Muanga at ^^^ ^^^^- ^^^^^ these he advanced to Murchison Bay, 
 Mandf^ and disembarked on a little island opposite Mun- 
 yonyo, formerly th^ residence of a king. It was called 
 Bulingogwe. 
 
 " Karema sent out an army to prevent Muanga from landing, 
 under the leadership of an Arab named Hamis Belul ; but this 
 force soon retired. Muanga's troops landed, and burnt Mun- 
 yonyo. A battle also took place in Kyagore, in which Karema's 
 army was beaten." 
 
 So far the information extends in Mr. Mackay's writing. 
 He goes on to say that Mr. Stokes soon afterwards returned to 
 
:]rrANGA's power and position. 315 
 
 Ukumbi, and now, namely, in August 1889, had the intention 
 to return with a new supply of weapons and ammunition to 
 Muanga's assistance. Muanga had sent an invitation Mr. stokes's 
 to the French and the English to come and establish e''t«'^P"'«- 
 themselves in the Sesse Islands. A few Frenchmen had already 
 started, and Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker were going off in 
 canoes to Sesse next day. 
 
 Mr. Mackay adds his own reflections: "Of course the 
 missionaries cannot assist Muanga in the fight, but their 
 presence is able to give prestige to his name, while it may also 
 give courage to their respective communities, who at this 
 time contribute almost the sole force of Muanga. Protestants 
 and Catholics together, they number about fifteen hundred men, 
 but according to their own estimate, two thousand. „ . . 
 
 . Opinion 
 
 They have, I believe, one thousand guns in all, but very of Mr. 
 little powder. Besides these, Muanga has several 
 thousands of heathen adherents, armed with spear and shield, 
 while Karema has more than two thousand guns, and all the 
 Arabs and their slaves at his back. But Karema is, I believe " 
 (which was a mistake of Mackay 's), " not inclined to Islam, and 
 only uses that party as his chief means of defence. A short 
 time ago he murdered all the princes and princesses on whom he 
 could lay his hands, for fear one or other of them should come 
 forward as a rival for the throne. 
 
 " This has not increased his popularity, and I hear that 
 several of his leading adherents are rebellious ; but they are 
 afraid to attach themselves to Muanga, as he is bitter against 
 all who have made profession of Mahometanism. My counsel 
 to Muanga is, for the present, to remain quietly in position of 
 possession of the Sesse Islands, and with the help of ^"^'^sa. 
 the numerous canoes he possesses (while Karema has none) to 
 blockade the coast of Uganda, (Buganda in the Kiganda 
 language), and to hinder the Arabs from obtaining reinforce- 
 ments. In this way he will gradually gain many adherents. 
 In fact, most of his former chiefs, offended by Karema, have 
 already attached themselves to him, though certainly with only 
 a few followers. 
 
31(i NEW LIGHT 0^f DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " When Mr. Stokes left Uganda the news had reached 
 there of the arrival of a few white men in the vicinity of 
 Wachores land. This, we believed, must be the advanced guard 
 Ex ected °^ ^^^ British East African Expedition, on its way to 
 British Wadelai with provisions and ammunition for you 
 African (Emiu), for whose assistance Muanga has sent, to put 
 Expedition, ^.^^^j^.^ alliance with them ; but we have no further 
 news of them." (This information evidently had reference to the 
 English expedition in Kawirondo, in whose own camp we were 
 tarrying just then.) 
 
 Mr. Mackay now continues with a someAvhat cool proposal 
 to Emin Pasha, to whom it appeared no less quaint when I 
 afterwards communicated it to him at Mpuapua, than it did to 
 me when I first read it. 
 
 " Now is the time to strike a strong blow for the right to 
 
 win Uganda. For if they (Jackson and his companions) assist 
 
 , Muanga in pulling down Karema and his Arabs, and 
 
 Chances of . ° ^ . " 
 
 an attempt bring Muauga himself back to the throne, the land will 
 gan a. g^f^gj-^g^j-jjg ]^q virtually in their hands, and they will 
 possess the key to all the western environs of Lake Victoria. 
 But, I fear, the British East Africa Company has for soldiers 
 Zanzibar porters, on whom little reliance can be placed." 
 
 Now comes the point. 
 
 "You (Emin Pasha) have the army, and only by the 
 assistance of one or two regiments of your troops, under suitable 
 leaders, does it become possible to overthrow Karema's fanatical 
 army, and to restore the ex-king Muanga to power, not, as before, 
 as an independent sovereign, but as an agent of the British East 
 Africa Company." (Certainly exceedingly attractive for Emin 
 , ^ Pasha. Fancy a German missionary making such a 
 
 Proposal to •' j n 
 
 Emin proposal to an Englishman of birth, to win a kingdom 
 for a German Colonial Company ! ) " His deposition and 
 banishment appear to have taught him a lesson, and I at least 
 have some hope that if he once again gets into power, he will rule 
 more wisely than he has done. Nevertheless, according to my 
 
MR. .VACKAY'S PROPOSAL TO E.VIX. 317 
 
 conviction, it is especial!)- desirable that it should not be left to 
 him to rely upon his own sources of help, but that he should 
 become dependent upon outsiders for his kingdom ; that is to 
 say, upon yourself aud the British East Africa Company. In 
 this way his future good behaviour will be secured. 
 
 " I have asked Messrs. Walker and Gordon to write to you 
 on your arrival in Sesse, and accurately to explain the situation 
 of affairs as they found it, I have been requested, theough 
 
 THE CoNSUL-GeNBRAL IN ZANZIBAR, AS WELL AS THROUGH Decided 
 THE AGENTS OF THE COMPANY (MeSSRS. SmITH, MACKENZIE mUsionlry 
 AND Co., AND BY Mr. MaCKENNON HIMSELF ), TO PROMOTE "^*^'^^^^*""®- 
 THE INTERESTS OF THE COMPANY SO FAR AS I CAN." (Surcly this 
 
 means to work as its political agent !) "I do not see how I can 
 do this better, from m)^ standpoint, than by making you and 
 the gentlemen at the head of the expedition acquainted with the 
 exact position of things at this time in Uganda, in the belief 
 that there is at present a rare opportunity, which might never 
 recur in our lifetime, not only to secure the market in Uganda, 
 but also to acquire the control over the whole country. The fact 
 that my ' brethren,' as well as the French missionaries, are 
 prepared to attach themselves to Muanga will, I am sure, be to 
 you an efficient guarantee that this side must be preferred. 
 Karema is fanatical, and so long as he is in power he will ever 
 be the enemy of all those who, like ourselves and the British 
 East Africa Company, have at heart the welfare of the maritime 
 territory." 
 
 This letter will, in the first place, form a not uninteresting 
 commentary on Stanley's assertion ("In Darkest Africa," 
 vol. ii., p. 350): "The Christian converts gave them (the 
 missionaries) an excellent character, and repeated Stanley's 
 much of the good advice Mr. IMackay had bestowed on X"^? °^ 
 them ; which were undoubted proofs that though the sionaries. 
 yoke of Muanga was exceedingly heavy to them, the mission- 
 aries had in this abstained from meddling in the politics of the 
 country." 
 
 I have given it here in its entirety, because it really gives a 
 
318 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 very clear picture of the position of affairs in Uganda, and 
 especially of the English designs upon these lands. 
 
 From other documents, of which I got a view in Kwa Sundu, 
 I further learned that, with the assistance of Stokes, Muanga 
 had, in fact, beaten Karema's followers on October 4th, 1889, 
 and regained possession of the throne, and that he had de- 
 victoryof spatched two embassies to the English expedition in 
 Muanga. j^^wirondo, with the request to Mr. Jackson to bring 
 him assistance, professing himself ready, if this were done, not 
 only to bestow on the British East Africa Company the mono- 
 poly of trade in Uganda and all his lands, but also to place 
 himself under a British protectorate. 
 
 This correspondence was signed by Muanga himself, by the 
 English missionaries, and also by Pere Lourdel. From the 
 series of letters I was able to ascertain that Mr. Jackson had 
 first delayed this affair, and then in writing declined it alto- 
 gether. This answer I did not see until later in Uganda, and 
 there I found that, with his five hundred Remingtons, 
 Bon's pro- he had not considered himself strong enough to march 
 upon Uganda, where, according to all that he knew, 
 the parties were pretty equally balanced, but preferred to go 
 out hunting to the north, where he was at that time. From 
 the last letter signed by Pere Lourdel, dated on December 1st, 
 from the Island of Bulingogwe, it appears that at the end of 
 November the army of Muanga must again have been beaten 
 (which had really happened on November 22nd), that the 
 Christians had once more taken refuge on the islands of Lake 
 Victoria, and from thence had despatched a more urgent prayer 
 than ever to the English expedition for assistance. The docu- 
 ment bearing upon this I herewith reproduce : — 
 
 "BULINGUSE, 1, XII., 89. 
 
 " BiEN GHEE MoNsiEUE, — Nous avous appris avec peine que 
 vous ne pourriez pas venir, au moins pour le moment, porter 
 secours k Muanga et aux Chretiens du Buganda comme nous 
 I'esperions. 
 
 " Le roi Muanga m'avait charge de vous ^crire en son nom 
 
FATHER LOURDEL'S LETTER. 319 
 
 la lettre Kiswahili que je vous ai envoyee, lorsqu'il n'aTait pas 
 encore appris la nouvelle de la defaite de son armee. Ayant ete 
 force de se refugier dans I'ile de Bulinguge il demande , 
 
 Ijflt'tfll' of 
 
 plus que jamais votre secours avec instance. En Pere 
 recompense outre le monopole du commerce dans le ^°'"'**^' 
 Buganda, il vous offre comme cadeau cent brasilas d'ivoire, 
 (=3,500 Pfd.), qu'il vous donnera, lorsqu'il sera remis sur le 
 trone. II se charge aussi de la nourriture de vos hommes et 
 accepte votre drapeau. Pour nous missionaires catholiques, 
 nous serous tres-heureux et tres-reconnaissants de profiter de 
 la protection, que vous pourrez, je I'espere, accorder aux mis- 
 sionaires et Chretiens de ce pays, si vous parvenez k chasser 
 les musulmans. Veuillez avoir la bonte de presenter mes 
 salutations empressees a vos intrepides compagnons de 
 route. Je prie Dieu de continuer k henir et favoriser votre 
 entreprise. 
 
 " Daignez agreer. Men cher Monsieur, I'expression de mes 
 sentiments de profond respect et de ma parfaite consideration, 
 avec lesquels j'ai I'honneur d'etre, votre tres humble serviteur, 
 
 " Simeon Louedel, 
 
 '• Premier Catholique dans le Buganda." 
 (TRANSLATION.) 
 
 " Very dear Sir, — We have heard with pain that you could 
 not come, at least not at present, to bring assistance to Muanga 
 and to the Christians of Buganda, as we hoped you would. 
 
 " King Muanga had charged me to write to you, in his 
 name, the Kiswahili letter I have sent to you, when he had 
 
 NOT YET RECEIVED THE NEV7S OP THE DEFEAT OF HIS ARMY. 
 
 Having been forced to take refuge in the island of Bulinguge, 
 he more than ever urgently asks your assistance. In return, 
 besides the monopoly of commerce in Buganda, he offers you, 
 as a present, a hundred pasilas of ivory (equal to 3,500 lbs.), 
 which he will give you when he is restored to the Translation 
 throne. He also takes upon himself the provisioning lourders 
 of your men, and accepts your flag. For our part, we ^®"*'^- 
 Catholic missionaries shall be very glad and very grateful to 
 
320 XI'JW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 take advantage of the protection which you will be able, I hope, 
 to grant to the missionaries and Christians of this country, if 
 you succeed in driving out the Mussulmans. Have the kindness 
 to present my special greetings to the intrepid companions of 
 your journey. I pray God to continue to bless and favour your 
 enterprise. 
 
 "Deign to accept, very dear Sir, the expression of my 
 sentiments of profound respect and perfect consideration, with 
 which I have the honour to be, your very humble servant, 
 
 " Simeon Lourdel, 
 
 " First Catholic in Buganda." 
 
 So far, including the knowledge that the English, upon such 
 information, were gone, not into this disagreeable Uganda, but 
 elephant hunting to the north, did my own information in 
 Kawirondo extend. 
 
 I have here related these facts, accepting the danger of 
 incurring suspicion of having violated the secrecy of letters 
 in Kawirondo ; but I hope such a reproach will be considered 
 unjustified. In the first place, it is not a question of opening 
 letters, on my part, but of documents which were laid before 
 me by the acting official chief of the English station, with the 
 Reasons Observation that he knew that " my brethren," his 
 the'^doou"^ masters, would be glad to communicate all these facts, 
 ments. g^^jj further information also, to me, if they were on 
 the spot, and with the express permission to take copies of 
 them. Secondly, my position must be taken into account — 
 the responsibility I bore with regard to the expedition and 
 my people, which made it my simple duty to gain all the 
 knowledge I could in any way acquire with regard to the lands 
 that lay before us. 
 
 After I had thus, in general, found where I was, I had the 
 Wasoga, who had carried the last Uganda post into the English 
 camp, brought before me, to question them at large. 
 
 " You are Wasoga. Who has sent you hither ? " 
 
 " We are compelled by the Waganda to show them the way 
 to the English camp in Kawirondo." 
 
INFORMATION CONCERNING USOGA. 321 
 
 " What news have you from Uganda ? Who is the master 
 there ? " 
 
 " In Uganda there is war. A little while ago Muanga had 
 beaten the Arabs ; but at last Karema was king conversa- 
 again, and Muanga and his people had fled to **"" ''"^ 
 
 ^T . 1 1 „ '■ ^ the Waso- 
 
 the islands. gamen. 
 
 "What kind of country is Usoga.P Do you belong to 
 Uganda, or have you chiefs of your own ? " 
 
 " We have chiefs of our own, but they are all subject to the 
 Kabaka of Uganda." 
 
 "Are strangers allowed to travel through Usoga without 
 permission from the Kabaka of Uganda ? " 
 
 " If a stranger comes to Usoga our sultans have to report 
 to the Mfalme * of Uganda." 
 
 " Is there food in Usoga ? " 
 
 "Food, as the sand by the sea," and they went through the 
 movement of heaping up sand in both hands. 
 
 " What kind of food ? " 
 
 " Bananas, grain, and flesh of all kinds." 
 
 "Do the Wasoga love the whites, or do they make war 
 upon them ? " 
 
 " The Wasoga love the whites, but they must do what the 
 Waganda tell them." 
 
 " Are there Waganda in Usoga ? " 
 
 " Yes ; they come every year to get tribute from thence, 
 and now many of them are there who have fled from the war 
 in Uganda." 
 
 " Do the Wasoga belong to Muanga's party, or do they hold 
 with Karema ? " 
 
 "Muanga is the Mfalme of Uganda, and Karema is only a 
 wicked man, who makes war upon him." 
 
 " Now 1 want to know, what is the Kisogo for a quantity of 
 words from the Kiswahili language." 
 
 * Kabaka or Mfalme is the title of the King of Uganda. I conjecture 
 that Kabaka is a Bantu word, while Mfalme is perhaps of Semitic origin. 
 The title Kabaka is evidently the same as the Kaba in the title of King 
 Kaba Eega of Unjoro. 
 
 21 
 
322 
 
 iY7?ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I noted down a number of words, which show that the 
 language of the "Wasoga is maiulj' of pure Bantu origin : — 
 
 
 English. 
 
 Kiswahili. 
 
 Kisogo. 
 
 Eiswahili 
 
 the way 
 
 ndjia 
 
 njola 
 
 and Kisogo 
 
 goes 
 
 anakwenda 
 
 elegenda 
 
 languages. 
 
 where ? 
 
 wapi? 
 
 ekuba ? 
 
 
 to the Turks 
 
 qua Turki 
 
 kubo Turki 
 
 
 want corn 
 
 nataka veri veri 
 
 dsagga limere. 
 
 
 water 
 
 madji 
 
 madsi 
 
 
 fowl 
 
 kuku 
 
 koko 
 
 
 eggs 
 
 majai 
 
 magi 
 
 
 milk 
 
 masnia 
 
 amata 
 
 
 forward 
 
 twende 
 
 tugende 
 
 
 I want 
 
 nataka 
 
 ndgale 
 
 
 a guide 
 
 kiongosi kwa 
 
 munlu (man 
 wakuntare 
 
 
 to TJnjoro 
 
 TJnjoro 
 
 TJnjoro 
 
 
 slowly 
 
 pole pole 
 
 genan pole 
 
 
 give 
 
 nipe 
 
 npa. 
 
 Twhahili) 
 
 I then sent for the Sultan and his suite, and asked him, — 
 
 " Do you know a country called Unjoro ? " 
 
 He pointed in a north-westerly direction. 
 
 " Are the Wangoro your friends or your enemies ? " 
 
 " The Wangoro are our friends ; the Waganda our 
 enemies." 
 
 " If you want to march to Unjoro, must you pass through 
 Usogo or Uganda ? " 
 
 " No ; if we want to go to Unjoro we have to go by way of 
 Kwa Telessa. From thence we go to Akore or Akola, and 
 thence direct to Unjoro. It takes four days to reach Akore, and 
 another four days to get from there to the Nile, at Unjoro, and 
 one day to cross the Nile ; so that we have a nine days' march 
 to Unjoro from this place." 
 
 " Have you much intercourse with the Wangoro ? " 
 
 "Yes; the Wangoro come to Kwa Telessa, and bring us. 
 powder and ammunition. We take cattle and corn to them, 
 and receive powder in exchange." 
 
 " Is Kwa Telessa a large place ? " 
 
GUIDES FOR KWA TELE8SA. 323 
 
 "Kwa Telessa is a large town, and there you hear news 
 rom all the countries of the west." 
 
 " Can you give me guides to Telessa ? " 
 
 "Certainly; I am your friend, and you may command 
 here. If you want guides to Telessa I will give you them." 
 
 " How many days' march is it from here to Kwa Telessa P " 
 
 " We sleep the first day in Kwa Tindi, the second in Kwa 
 Surga, and the third day we reach Kwa Telessa." informa- 
 
 " What sort of people live in these countries ? " Kwa^'""'' 
 
 " The Walukuma live there." ™«s^- 
 
 " Are you friendly with them, or do you live at war with 
 them.P" 
 
 " The Walukuma are our friends ; hut close to them live 
 the Walunda. They are very bad people, and with them we 
 are at war." 
 
 " Then when I march to Kwa Telessa, and from there to 
 Unjoro, I have no need to go by way either of Usoga or 
 Uganda ? " 
 
 " No. You leave those countries to your left, and you go 
 straight to Unjoro." 
 
 " Then get me some guides to Kwa Telessa. To-morrow I 
 shall remain here, and the next day I shall march from here to 
 Unjoro. When I come back I will beat your Mangati* for you." 
 
 The next day the negotiations were continued, and the final 
 result of them all was that I engaged three guides (Gasia, 
 Amoquaja, and Waschitoba) to lead us to Kwa Telessa. 
 
 February 3rd was one of the most unsatisfactory days of 
 the whole expedition. I had certainly the pleasure of seeing 
 Herr von Tiedemann completely restored to health ; but an in- 
 cident occurred on this day which threatened to upset all my 
 plans for the future, and forced upon me, to my dismay, the 
 conviction that I was by no means so absolutely sure of my 
 own followers as I had supposed already. In the morning Ali 
 Somal came to me, with Hussein, endeavouring to persuade me 
 not to undertake the march towards the west. " The Doctor is 
 
 * I afterwards came to be of opinion that a confusion between Wangoro 
 and Wachoro was involved in this information of the Sultan's. 
 
324 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 very fiery, is the universal opinion," they told me ; " he is not 
 afraid, but he will lead us all to destruction." " Pray wait 
 here," added Ali Somal, " till Mr. Jackson and his three gentle- 
 men come back with our people. Then you can all take counsel 
 together, and I know that Mr. Jackson will be very glad to carry 
 out a plan in concert with you." 
 
 " But Mr. Jackson has already been lying here for more than 
 
 four months, and you told me yesterday that so soon 
 
 sou's pro- as he returned from the north he would march back 
 
 ee mga. ^^ ^^^ coast. How cau you say that he will be glad 
 
 to carry out a plan in concert with me ? " 
 
 " Mr. Jackson would have been only too glad to go to Uganda 
 himself, but he was afraid to do so because of the uncertainty 
 in the whole state of affairs. If he sees that you are determined 
 to advance, he will probably attach himself to you." 
 
 " Well, then it would, after all, be better for me to go on 
 first and see if the roads are safe. Then I will write to Mr. 
 Jackson, and I shall be glad if he will follow me." 
 
 " I cannot decide as to that," said Ali Somal ; " but I 
 should like to save the lives of my brethren, the Somali, who 
 all say you are too fiery, and would rather wait here than go 
 on with you at once." 
 
 " Is that true P " I asked of Hussein. 
 
 " Yes, sir. I will gladly go with you, to die with you ; but 
 the others think you ought rather to wait here. They are tired 
 of carrying on war every day." 
 
 " Well, then, go and tell your people that I have heard your 
 words. I thought I had men and soldiers with me, but I see 
 now that such does not seem to be the case. Tell the Somalis, 
 that to each one among them who may prefer to stay here with 
 the English I will give permission to do so, and that I do not 
 mean, either, to deduct anything from the pay which they have 
 earned until now. But tell them also that I shall know, by 
 the decision which each man comes to, whether we Germans 
 have been deceived in the Somalis or not. And ask them what 
 report of your brethren I am accordingly to give some day in 
 Aden." 
 
DEBATE Wrrn the SO-VALIS. 
 
 325 
 
 " Very good, sir." 
 
 Hussein went a^Yaj, and returned in an hour with the answer 
 that the Somalis thought that, from my having asked them 
 whether they wished to stay behind, they might assume that I 
 had no further need of them. Accordingly, they asked per- 
 mission that all of them might remain here. 
 
 "Hussein, do you want to stay here, too.P" 
 
 HussEix, Leader of the Somalis. 
 
 "No, sir. I should like to go with you, but I should like 
 the other Somalis to come too." 
 
 " Well, then, call your people together for a conference 
 with me." 
 
 Thereupon the Somalis appeared before my tent, and I spoke 
 to them to the following efl'ect : — 
 
 " You know that I had you all engaged in Aden, to go with 
 ]ne in search of a great German who rules in the land of the 
 Turki. We marched together up the Tana, where the English 
 Expedition was forced to turn back, and we reached Bariugo 
 
326 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 sooner than they did. We are the men who vanquished the 
 haughty Massais of Leikipia, and every tribe that tried to stop 
 our march we have overthrown. Did you ever, during this 
 expedition, hear any resolutions come to by me which resulted 
 in placing our lives in danger ? Have I not, up to this point, 
 always brought you safely through every difficulty ? " 
 
 " You speak the truth, sir." 
 
 " Have we not always had food in plenty ? Have I not led 
 you through countries where there was neither road nor track, 
 and where I could only find the direction from books ? " 
 
 " It is true, sir." 
 
 " Do you not believe that your lives are as precious to me 
 as my own, and that if you died I should perish too ? " 
 
 "You were always foremost, sir." 
 
 " Well, and do you think, then, that I wish to die in this 
 infernal land of Africa P Do you believe that I would march 
 Speech to iito couutries where a certain death is awaiting us ? 
 the somahs. ^^^ ^^ y^^ ^^q^ think that if I now move westward, 
 in spite of all, I must have information which is better than 
 all that you hear about it ? I have read the great letters that 
 Ali Somal has given me, and I know as well as he does that 
 we are no longer able to make war in the countries that we are 
 now going to enter. But do you not know that I am able, if 
 I please, also to make peace, as I did with the Gallas and at 
 Lake Baringo ? W^ell, what do you say ? " 
 
 Musa Somal answered, " Sir, when Hussein asked this 
 morning whether we would stay here or go with you, we thought 
 you M'ere tired of us, and wished to go forward without the 
 Somalis. But now that we hear that you still love your 
 Somalis, and will be, as ever, father and mother to them, we 
 cannot forsake you, and we will go forward and die with you." 
 
 " What are you talking about dying for ? I have just told 
 you I have no intention of dying here. We are all of us in 
 God's hand. If it is Allah's will, we shall die, whether it be 
 here or in any other place. But if such is not His will, we shall 
 not die, wherever we go." 
 
 A murmur of assent greeted this remark, and I continued, 
 
DR. PETER'S DECLARATION TO THE SO.VALLS. 
 
 327 
 
 " So now, then, I will tell you what my plans are. There is a 
 route from here to Emin Pasha which leaves Usoga and Uiianda 
 on the left hand, and leads direct to Unjoro. In Unjoro there 
 is a kins:;, Kaba Rega, who was formerly Emin's friend, and with 
 whom I hope to make friends. If I succeed, and receive inform- 
 
 Shauei with the Somali Soldiers. 
 
 ation to that effect, I shall cross the Nile at a place c;dled 
 Mruli. If I do not succeed, we shall march along the right side 
 of the Nile d(jwn to Fauvera, one of Emin's stations. If we 
 march well we can get to the Nile in nine days, and after that 
 God will help us. And now go, soldiers of the Sonialis, and 
 ponder the words which you have heard." 
 
328 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Meamvhile the bearers had got wind of what was going on 
 among the Somalis ; and thereupon thej^ too held a meeting, and 
 sent a deputation to the Somalis with the message, " If you do 
 not wish to go any farther with Kupanda Sharo we shall not 
 go either. Let us know what you have decided to do." 
 
 To this the Somalis replied, "We are Somalis, and you 
 bearers are different people. We obey the commands of our 
 The Somalis cMef, and if you are not willing to do so we shall fight 
 reply. against you at his command, and shoot down every 
 man who runs away." This answer was confirmed to me after- 
 wards by Musa, the headman of the bearers from Dar-es-Salam, 
 who had headed the deputation. 
 
 The plan which I had laid before the Somalis was the result 
 of information of different kinds which I had received in Kwa 
 Sundu, and was based upon the repeated assurances of Ali Somal, 
 that Emin Pasha had remained alone in his province. In this 
 case it was of course impossible to neglect any chance or 
 refuse any effort to reach him, and I was firmly resolved once 
 more to stake all for this purpose. Any other decision would 
 have seemed to me as futile as if I had received the commission 
 Dr. Peter's to explore the interior of Vesuvius, and after collecting 
 decision, everything necessary for the purpose, had proceeded 
 to the edge of the crater, and then faced about, and returned 
 home with my report, " It cannot be done ! " 
 
 After the communication from Uganda I was obliged to 
 desist from passing through that country, because by so doing I 
 should have needlessly increased the risk twofold ; and if I were 
 successful in crossing Uganda alive, the dangers in Unjoro 
 would not be diminished in the least. 
 
 On the other hand, I was able to hope that, if I had the good 
 fortune of falling in with Emin Pasha I might, together with 
 him, take into consideration what was possible to be done for 
 the Christians in Uganda. It was evident that we should have to 
 make the question of Uganda our first subject of deliberation, 
 because it comprised within itself the quickest possibility of 
 procuring ammunition for the Pasha. The plan of my farther 
 advance, which I decided to put into execution on the following 
 
THE MARCH FROM KWA SUNDU. 329 
 
 morning, was framed to suit these considerations. There 
 was no object now in our remaining any longer in ^ 
 Kawirondo. Our doing so would simply waste the for the 
 stores of the expedition for no purpose, and weaken the ®""°"- 
 spirit of my people. And, in the last place, I should have 
 rendered myself completely independent of the English. 
 
 Nevertheless, since it was impossible to foresee the result of 
 the advance, Herr von Tiedemann and I resolved to leave behind 
 our letters and reports at the English station, to be forwarded to 
 the coast for Europe ; a fatal resolution, which had for its result 
 the loss of the whole packet. Exactly the same fate befell 
 me with respect to all the letters sent to me at Zanzibar 
 by the English mail. " Horse and horseman saw we never 
 more ! " As it seemed to me desirable, if it was in any way 
 possible, to secure the stores of ammunition collected by 
 the English for Emin Pasha, I left a letter for Mr. Jackson 
 at his station, in which I informed him of my march in 
 the direction of Uganda, and offered him my friendly co- 
 operation. I promised to keep him constantly au courant 
 of the characteristics of the route, and hoped that he would 
 then decide, in the interests of civilisation and humanity, to 
 follow me with his expedition into the Equatorial Province, in 
 order to work in union with me for the relief of Emin Pasha. 
 
 At sunrise on February 4th I marched out of the English 
 station at Kwa Sundu with beat of drum. I had previously tried 
 to make it clear to the Sultan and his relations, that they would 
 do better not to bring into play the intrigues and faithlessness 
 of the black races, of which all travellers complain. As I was 
 preparing to depart the guides declared, all at once, Faituess 
 that they did not wish to go with me to-day ; and ^'^**'- 
 when I urged them to fulfil the engagement into which they 
 had entered with me, I was again treated to the dogged 
 "A-a-a-a!" which I have already described. 
 
 A few well-directed blows distributed among the whole 
 population and the English intimated delicately to the Sultan 
 and his family that this behaviour was not to be tolerated by us. 
 But it was not until I had threatened to burn the place over 
 
330 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 their heads that the}' resohed to undertake the guiding of our 
 part}', for which I had already paid them on the previous day. 
 
 On this morning I was in an especially irritable frame of 
 mind, because I had been told that one of my Somalis, named 
 Ismael Ali, had deserted. This could only have been possible if 
 either the English garrison or the native population had con- 
 nived at it. But we had something better to do than to stay 
 here; looking after a deserter, and so at about six o'clock we 
 . ^, started off in the direction of the north-west. At seven 
 
 On tlie 
 
 march o'clock we crossed, with some trouble, the stony river 
 Nsoia, which flows into the Victoria Nyanza below Kwa 
 Sundu, after draining the Angata na Nyuki. 
 
 The Wakawirondo, under the protection of our dreaded 
 expedition, pressed forward with their herds to the river, to 
 seek the pasture -ground on the opposite bank, which they had 
 formerly avoided out of fear of the western tribes. 
 
 The Nsoia is very swift in this place, and the crossing 
 was attended with great difficulty. Again and again some of 
 my cattle were carried down stream, and had to be recaptured 
 with much trouble. By nine o'clock all were on the right bank, 
 and now our way lay onward into the distant unknown West. 
 
 The scenery through which we marched presented, indeed, 
 a dreary spectacle. Everywhere ruined plantations and burned 
 or half-burned villages. The Mangati had been "at work" 
 here, and if up to this morning I had been rather angry with 
 myself for having allowed myself to be drawn in to take part in 
 the fight against them, I now rejoiced at having for once given 
 these robbers and bandits a well-merited lesson. 
 
 So we went on for six hours through long stretches of hill 
 Through districts. The mountains which shut in Kawirondo 
 thehius. -^ ^jjg gj^g^ ^^^ Samia in the north, lay extended 
 before us in a south-westerly direction. 
 
 At about three o'clock in the afternoon we reached their 
 north-eastern spurs, and here I set up the camp by the little 
 river Manieni, which flows into the Victoria Nyanza about 
 three miles to the west of Nsoia. 
 
 The landscape here puts on a somewhat fresher character. 
 
EMBASSY FR02I SULTAN TINDI. 331 
 
 We found ourselves again in inhabited districts and among 
 kraals, which were surrounded by fields of grain. 
 
 This was the country of Kwa Tindi, that is to say, of the 
 Sultan Tindi, who rules over the western part of Kawirondo. 
 No white man had ever been here before us, but the natives had 
 heard of us, and the women, including the naked daughters 
 of Kawirondo and the Massai women, who are clothed up 
 to the neck, soon crowded round my expedition, offering for 
 sale fire -wood and provisions of all kinds. Moreover, the 
 Sultan Tindi had no sooner heard of our arrival, than he 
 sent messengers to me from his capital, which lay about a mile 
 away to the westward, with the reproachful question, " Why do 
 you set up your camp so far from my capital ? Why do you 
 not come to me, who would so gladly be your friend ? " 
 
 I answered the messenger, — 
 
 " Tell your sultan that my people are too tired to be able 
 to march as far as Kwa Tindi to-night. For all that, the 
 sultan may be assured that I have come into his Message to 
 country with intentions wholly pacific. To-morrow I *^^ ^""*"- 
 intend to pass through his land toward the west. Ask your 
 lord whether I can do so in peace, or whether he prefers to 
 measure his strength with us in war." 
 
 "Tindi desires your friendship, but we hasten to carry 
 your words to him." 
 
 In an hour and a half, towards evening, they came back. 
 
 " The sultan bids us say. Why does the great white man, 
 who has beaten the Massais, our enemies, and the Mangati, 
 who plunder our villages, speak to me of war ? I and my land 
 belong to him, and I only wish that he would come to-morrow 
 and set up his tent in my capital. We will give him all he 
 desires, and show him every honour which is his due." 
 
 I replied to the messenger, — 
 
 " Tell your sultan that I have heard his words of peace, and 
 received them as such. To-morrow I shall march by his capital, 
 because I am going on farther to Unjoro, but when I come 
 back, then I will stay with him, and we will exchange gifts of 
 friendship." 
 
332 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 On the evening of this day I was again to have an oppor- 
 tunit}' of learning from ocular demonstration more about the 
 " settled " condition of this district. I had just lain down in 
 bed, when all at once a diabolical row broke out in the kraal 
 that lies ten minutes' walk to the east of our camp, and by 
 which we had marched in the afternoon. Horns, drums, pipes, 
 shrieking, and wild howling clashed together in a chaos of 
 sound. From time to time there came a pause ; but then the 
 tumult broke out with renewed violence. I called my sentry 
 Attack on i^to the tent, and asked what was the matter. He 
 the kraal, ijrought the guides from Kawirondo to me, and from 
 these I learned that robber bands from Elgumi had just attacked 
 the kraal, and that its defenders were now fighting. 
 
 "That is what Tindi's Massais say," they told me; "they 
 are just gone by to beat back the Waelgumi." 
 
 I sent for Hussein, and bade him give out about a hundred 
 cartridges for my people immediately. The danger to our 
 camp was twofold. It was possible that the Wakawirondo, in 
 case they were defeated, would flee to us, and that so we should 
 be involved in the struggle ; or, on the other hand, that the Wa- 
 elgumi, even if this did not occur, might attack us in the mere 
 wantonness of their victory. It is significant of the indiffer- 
 ence with which we were all of us accustomed by this time to 
 regard such possibilities, that we all stayed quietly in bed. Not 
 until the noise broke out on the other side of the kraal and in 
 the immediate vicinity of our camp did I get up, put my guns 
 in order, light my pipe, and sit down in my armchair in front 
 of my tent. I sent to beg Lieutenant von Tiedemann to join 
 me, and we had, from ten o'clock to one in the morning, the 
 curious experience of being able to observe, at least as far as 
 the sound is concerned, a battle between natives close at hand. 
 
 The moon shone bright above the scene, the crickets chirped, 
 frogs croaked in the brook below, and man alone demonstrated 
 The comba- his likeness to his Maker by the tumult and cries of 
 tive natives, p^^j^ which Continually clashed upon our ears, amid 
 the sweet peacefulness of nature. 
 
 Towards one o'clock the Massais, who were in the pay of 
 
THE EXPEDITION PASSES KWA TINDI. 333 
 
 Tindi, advanced to their attack, and gradually the din of battle 
 died away in the north, where, however, the natives were still 
 awake, and received their retreating friends with cries and yells. 
 
 The whole aifair passed away like a vision, and once more 
 the earth lay at our feet in softest repose and deepest peace 
 under the floods of moonlight. My people had paid so little 
 attention to the whole transaction, that they peacefully snored 
 all round us during all the noise of the warfare. 
 
 At dawn on the following day I gave orders for the trumpet 
 to call the march out, and we started at once in the direction of 
 the north-west. A little after six o'clock we crossed the Sio, 
 and towards seven we reached Kwa Tindi. The town is pic- 
 turesquely situated on a height, between basalt rocks. It is 
 surrounded by a strong wall of red stone and a deep 
 
 FfliT tic 111 Sirs 
 
 dike ; the gates boldly and picturesquely arched, and concerning 
 connected by dams with the outer world. As soon ^''""''^'^y- 
 as we approached any village the drummer had orders always 
 to beat a tattoo, and in this manner Ave passed by Kwa Tindi. 
 The population streamed out of the gate in crowds to stare at 
 us, and I thought I saw among the throng the Sultan himself, 
 with his retinue, recognisable by his ornaments. However, I 
 did not choose to make an)'^ demonstration of greeting. At a 
 short distance I passed by the town, and soon the whole scene 
 lay behind us like a Fata Morgana. We now crossed two more 
 streams, tributaries of the Sio, one of which is named Nogombe. 
 When we had passed the latter the guides suddenly turned away 
 from the north-western to a westerly direction. W^hen I pro- 
 tested against their doing so they answered, — 
 
 " To the north of us live the Walundu, with whom we are at 
 war. We cannot go thither. But be of good courage, we will 
 lead you to Kwa Telessa to-morrow by this road." 
 
 I asked, " What land lies yonder to the left of us ? " 
 
 They said, " That is the land of Samia, and behind it lies 
 Usoga. We will not bring you there, but to Kwa Telessa, 
 from where you can go on to Unjoro." 
 
 " What is the name of those mountains yonder to the left, 
 behind which Samia lies P " 
 
334 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 "That is the Fukulu." 
 
 " And the mountains here to the right of us, that reach 
 across from ElgonP" 
 
 " That is the Eshekulu." 
 
 (KuIk is certainly the same root as the Kiswahili Jcili, 
 meaning mountain. ) 
 
 Between these two chains of hills, which we had seen already 
 from Kwa Sundu, and which from that place looked like one 
 uninterrupted uniform mountain range to the west of Kawirondo, 
 we now passed on. There is a gap of from fourteen to eighteen 
 miles wide between the two, forming a well-cultivated plateau, 
 still at an elevation of nearly four thousand feet. As the first 
 white man who ever marched through this gap and explored the 
 March formation of these mountains, I named the mass of 
 "^Junker*''* mountains in the south, after our countryman whom we 
 Kange." were endeavouring to reach, the " Bmin Pasha Moun- 
 tains ; " while I christened the chain to the north, after his friend 
 and companion, the "Junker Range." The two ranges have 
 nothing in common in their formation. The Emin Pasha 
 Mountains extend in an east and west direction, turning only 
 their counterslope towards Kawirondo, and belong altogether to 
 the volcanic girdle of the Victoria Nyanza Lake ; while the 
 Volcanic Juuker Range is nothing more than the south-westerly 
 
 formation. ^^^^. ^^ ^^^ jgjgQ^_ Qf ^^^^^^ ^j^^y ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ 
 
 magnificent volcanic system to which the whole plateau, over 
 which we marched, owes its origin. When, on the morning of 
 February 5th, I fixed upon these designations, I felt that we 
 were now indeed entering the regions in which the activity of 
 these two men was displayed. 
 
 Kawirondo now lay behind us, and the landscape gradually 
 assumed a new character. The doom-palm appeared again, and 
 the character of the inhabitants themselves gradually appeared 
 under a new aspect. We marched on over valley and moun- 
 tain, through stream and swamp, till two o'clock in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 We then reached the great place called Kwa Tunga, also 
 surrounded by proud walls and with high gates, over which 
 
FORWARD TO KWA TELESSA. 335 
 
 appeared gables and roofs, which reminded me, in some degree, 
 of India. " Habesch ! " cried my Somalis, when the}- March to 
 came in sight of the place; and when I asked them ^'^^ ^""sa. 
 what they meant by that, they said, " Just like those of Kwa 
 Tunga are the villages of Abyssinia built." 
 
 Kwa Tunga lies exactly to the north of the Bmin Pasha 
 Mountains, and marks almost the centre of the chain. I set up 
 my camp by the southern ramparts of the town, opposite the 
 mountain range which I had before my eyes all the afternoon. 
 
 Below the hill on which the place and my camp were situated 
 flows a little brook. The air was as clear and pure as . , 
 
 . ^ Fnendh- 
 
 on an August day m Germany. Our relations with ness of the 
 the natives were of a friendly character, and in a ^^°^ *' 
 hopeful and joyous mood we spent the afternoon and evening. 
 
 Although we had food in plenty, one of my bearers deserted 
 on the following morning, with his wife. Uganda, in fact, still 
 rose before my people as a menacing phantom of terror. 
 
 On this day we marched on again, in a west-north-westerly 
 direction, towards Kwa Telessa. The aspect of the country 
 became more and more cultivated and fertile along the „ , . 
 
 " March to 
 
 green slopes. Village after village appeared, with large Kwa 
 herds of oxen and flocks of sheep pasturing. The 
 natives were very demonstrative in their friendliness. Our 
 guides had only to tell them that we were the people who had 
 beaten the Massais and the Mangati, to call forth stormy 
 salvos of applause from them. 
 
 The method of salutation here is by snapping with the thumb 
 and forefinger, which, when it is done by large numbers of men 
 together, has a very pleasing and attractive sound. 
 
 Whenever we passed by a kraal, the women and girls came 
 out to bring us water and steaming batatas. The way these 
 Walukuma fortify their villages is peculiar. The clay wall, such 
 as is seen even at Kwa Tunga, now disappears, and in its place 
 great enclosures of cactus are made, which surround the Mhole 
 place to a height of from eight to twelve yards ; a defence equally 
 tasteful and efficacious. At one o'clock we reached Kwa Telessa. 
 
 This place is surrounded by a thick growing hedge, and lies 
 
336 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 completely hidden in a grove of bananas, within which the huts 
 Description are picturesquely grouped. More and more we began 
 of the town. ^^ realise that we were in Central Africa. Kwa Telessa 
 was the first place to which the description of the Seribas of 
 Central Africa, written by Emin Pasha and Schweinfurth, applied. 
 At the same time we made our first acquaintance with the dress 
 materials of Uganda, namely, the brown bark of the wild fig- 
 tree, woven into a kind of cloth. The dialect itself was different ; 
 and already among the sounds which we had heard at Kawirondo 
 were blended the more indistinct accents of Uganda. 
 
 We pitched our tents under a mighty cotton-tree, inside 
 the hedge rampart of the place, while the men were quartered 
 in the neighbouring huts in the shade of the banana trees. 
 Readily and amicably the natives came forward. When, after 
 my arrival, I was taking a short rest, reclining in my arm-chair, 
 my attention was suddenly aroused by a tittering at the door 
 ladies of ^t the back of my tent. I turned round, and saw, 
 the country, standing there, three really charming young girls, in 
 dresses of red stuff", and adorned with beads, who, as soon as 
 I turned my head towards them, greeted me almost roguishly 
 with the usual snap of the fingers. The girls, in their demeanour, 
 reminded me in some degree of European young ladies. 
 
 There was food to be had here in abundance, and presently 
 the Sultan Telessa came from a neighbouring plantation to 
 Visit of greet me — an old man, looking much like a German 
 Telessa. Qf Lower Saxouy, with square-cut broad features, 
 which, however, bore the stamp of very considerable strength 
 of will. 
 
 Telessa and his suite crowded in front of my tent, while he 
 examined me Avith unfeigned astonishment, but with a certain 
 reserve that spoke of tact. 
 
 "Peace be with you," was my greeting to him. "I rejoice 
 to be in Telessa's country. I have heard of you already in 
 Kawirondo, and have come here to make your acquaintance 
 and receive from you information about the lands to the west." 
 
 "Let the Msurgu (white man) ask what he desires to 
 know." 
 
AN INTERVIEW WITH TELESSA. 337 
 
 " I wish to know whether you have any acquaintance with 
 the country to the west. Do you know Unjoro and its king 
 Kaba Rega P " 
 
 " The Wanjoro I know, but Kaba Rega I do not know." 
 
 " Do you know the great river in the west, the Nile, which 
 the people here call Kyira ?" 
 
 " I know the Kyira well. The children of my concerning 
 people often travel thither." "''^"'• 
 
 " And how many days' journey is it from here to Kyira ? " 
 
 " Five days. In how many days have you come here from 
 Kwa Sundu ? " 
 
 " In three days." 
 
 "Then you have still five da}rs' journey to reach the 
 Nile." 
 
 " And how far is it to the Wanjoro ? " 
 
 "To the Wanjoro you will come in four days from here." 
 
 "Have you any news of white men who live in Wanjoro ? '' 
 
 " Oh, yes, I have news of that kind. Two great white men 
 live there, who possess many soldiers and great houses. 
 One of my people has been for a long time in the p wan- 
 service of the white men." ■'"°' 
 
 "Are the soldiers of these white men Turki, or what kind 
 of men are they P " 
 
 " I think they are Turki. But my man will be able to tell 
 you all this better than I." 
 
 " Is this man to be found here in Kwa Telessa ? " 
 
 " He lives not far from here." 
 
 " Then send to him, and bid him come, and let him know 
 that I have rich presents for him. This evening, ^^^ ^^_ 
 when the sun sinks in the west, come back with him, quiry ad- 
 a.nd then we will hold a further Shauri concerning the "'""'^'^^ ' 
 business." 
 
 I was determined to tarry the next day in Telessa, to 
 collect all the information which was to be had in the place. 
 Although I was not inclined to put faith in the signs which 
 .seemed to open out before me, yet it was evident that before I 
 went further I must, with especial vigilance, study my position 
 
338 ^Y/:;ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 again and again with regard to the circumstances of the case, 
 that I might not lead my column hlindly to destruction. 
 
 In the evening Telessa returned, and we began by ex- 
 second changing the usual gifts in sign of friendship. He 
 m Mview ijj.Q^gj^^ cattle, eggs, and milk, honey, and bananas, 
 Telessa. while I presented him with bright coloured stuffs, a 
 little powder, and some beads. 
 
 " Well, have you brought the man with you who was in the 
 service of the white men at Unjoro ? " 
 
 " I have sent to him, but he will not be able to be here till 
 to-morrow morning." 
 
 " So you know for certain that there are white men living 
 in Unjoro ? " 
 
 " I am as sure of it, as I am of the fact that we are here 
 together." 
 
 " And do you also know the place where they live ? " 
 
 "Yes, I know it well. They have a large house, and 
 manjf, many people." 
 
 " Then I daresay you will be willing to forward a letter 
 Concern- ^^°°^ "^^ *° t\ie&e white men, if I pay your messengers, 
 ing the and give you some more presents for yourself ? " 
 
 white men. . ^ •' 
 
 "I Will very gladly do that, and you can wait 
 here for the answer, to see whether I speak the truth, or am 
 lying." 
 
 " And in how many days do you think the messengers can 
 be back here ? " 
 
 "In three days they can be here again from the white 
 man." 
 
 " Well, then, I will tell 5^ou what. Give me messengers 
 who can carry my letters in advance, and give me guides who^ 
 Proposal '^^^^^ conduct me, by the same road, after them. Then 
 Peters *^*^ messengers, in returning, will meet me on the way, 
 so that I can receive their news from them on my 
 journey. If the white man is so near, I shall soon be back 
 here with you, and then we will exchange more presents with 
 each other. You shall have my flag, and we will make a last- 
 ing friendship." 
 
QUESTION OF EMIN'S WHEREABOUTS. 33» 
 
 " I will gladly take }-our flag, for I know that you have 
 beaten the Massais. Two years ago the Massais came as far 
 as here, and drove away my cattle." 
 
 " Good ; then, to-morrow, do what I have commissioned 
 you to do." 
 
 A lively snapping of fingers, from the assembled people,, 
 showed with what satisfaction the conclusion of our agreement 
 was received by the multitude. 
 
 On the following morning, at seven o'clock, there was. 
 another great assembly of the people. The mysterious servant 
 of the white men of Unioro was certainly not yet „ , 
 
 <* J J Telessa's 
 
 there ; but Telessa had brought two messengers who, two mes- 
 he said, knew the way thoroughly, and would carry ^^'^^^'^^^ 
 my letters forward. I drew up two documents, therefore, in 
 presence of the large circle of people, and these were de- 
 spatched in the course of the same morning. I was not at 
 all inclined to apply to Emin Pasha the news which Telessa. 
 brought ; nevertheless there might be some trace given in this 
 direction. 
 
 When Emin Pasha received news of Dr. Fischer's advance,, 
 as he himself relates, he pushed forward his troops to g^^-g^ 
 Mruli. Might he not now, after Stanley's departure, tures about 
 have heard rumours of the approach of East African 
 Relief Expeditions, and might he not be working to establish 
 communication with them in that direction by means of 
 advanced posts .P 
 
 Accordingly, since I could not take for granted that Emin 
 Pasha himself was to be found here in the east, but at most 
 could only conjecture that Casati, or some Egyptian officers, 
 might be there, I wrote the following letter in English and in 
 French : — 
 
 " February 1th, 1890. 
 
 " To any gentleman, or any official of His Excellency 
 Dr. Emin Pasha, who is stationed in Unjoro. 
 " On my arrival yesterday in Kwa Telessa, on my way ta 
 His Excellency Dr. Emin Pasha, I received the news that a 
 
340 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 European was in East Unjoro. If such is the case I shall be 
 ixperi- much obliged for some brief particulars. I shall 
 Telter\t despatch this letter to-da}^ and follow on the same 
 Dr. Peters. j^-Qg^^j ^y^^]^ ^y gmall expedition to-morrow. An answer 
 Avill find me on the route by which this letter has come. 
 " This answer will greatly oblige, 
 
 " De. Carl Peters." 
 
 When this letter had been sent off, I dismissed my guides 
 from Kwa Sundu, by whom I sent the news of the incidents of 
 our advance, to the gentlemen of the English expedition, and 
 to whom also I gave a letter for Messrs. Hansing & Co., in 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 In the course of the day, my people were again disquieted 
 _. . by news of dangers of war in the west. The Walandu, 
 
 Iisquiet- ./ o 7 
 
 ingru- it was Said, were makmg the passage towards the 
 north-west impossible. 
 
 My people seemed to have changed altogether. They were 
 thoroughly infected by the apprehensions that reigned in the 
 ranks of the English expedition. It was as though the band- 
 ages had been suddenly torn away from their eyes, and they 
 now saw on the edge of what a precipice they were walking in 
 my company. 
 
 They forgot that the path, up to this time, had not been 
 exactly a safe one. To guard against further desertions, I called 
 Tendency them together in the evening, took their guns from 
 to desertion.^jjgjjj^ and once again put the suspicious characters 
 among them in chains. 
 
 In spite of this I was informed, on the following morning, 
 that one of them had run back to Kawirondo. 
 
 On the following morning I had, first of all, the usual ex- 
 planation with Telessa, who had no intention of fulfilling his 
 promise of furnishing me with guides, but who was induced to 
 March perform his duty by the usual arguments. Then we 
 towards began our march westward, along a chain of heights 
 M'hich rose before us, lying in a north to south direc- 
 tion, exactly under the thirty-fourth degree of east longitude as 
 
MARCH TO THE WISSMANN HILLS;— A STRANGER. 341 
 
 far as one degree north of the lake. I ordered the guides to lead 
 us to the northern end of this chain of mountains ; but they 
 explained that it could not be done, for fighting was going on 
 there ; we should all be killed if we marched that way. It 
 was a fact that, during our march, we had repeatedly heard the 
 noise of fighting to the north of us ; and in consideration for the 
 demoralised state of my people, I consented to cross the hills in 
 front of us, a little below the northern end. These hills, which 
 formed the boundary of Usoga proper in the east, I The "wiss- 
 have named " Wissmann Hills." Where they are ap- ™annHuis." 
 proached from the east they present a precipitous and steep 
 aspect, but on nearing them, it is found that the ascent is a 
 very easy one. In reality it is accomplished almost imper- 
 ceptibly, through groves of bananas and other plantations. 
 
 The next day was an unpleasant one for me, for my people 
 repeatedly pressed me to stay in Kwa Telessa until the answer 
 came to the letters I had sent forward the day before to Emin 
 Pasha, before travelling further into a region of uncertainty. I 
 concluded the matter by decidedly forbidding any interference 
 with my leadership of the expedition ; and so we went on, past 
 crowds of people, who also warned us against going further 
 towards the Wissmann Hills. When we had nearly reached 
 the foot of these hills, Herr von Tiedemann suddenly gave the 
 trumpet signal to halt. I was eager to know what could have 
 happened, when all at once I saw a handsomely-dressed ^ 
 youne man, with a small suite, likewise of stately terious 
 
 • 111 rni visitor. 
 
 appearance, hastening to me along the column. Ine 
 young man was dressed in a dark Arab kaftan, embroidered with 
 gold, and wore a red turban. When he came up to me he fell 
 on the ground before me and kissed my feet. We were unable 
 to make out in the least who he was, or what he wanted ; but he 
 immediately placed himself at the head of my train, drew out a 
 flute, and led the way, playing at the same time, sometimes in 
 pathetic, sometimes in strange, quaint, short melodies, which 
 his followers accompanied with rhythmical, peculiar kind of 
 singing. In this way we went on through very bare country, 
 along Minding paths, in a south-easterly direction. There was 
 
342 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 something mysterious in the whole occurrence. The young 
 stranger seemed to me like the prince in a fairy tale, who had 
 come to lead us to his castle, and my fancy was excited to 
 penetrate the secret of his appearance. The idea began sud- 
 denly to awake in me that this might have some connection 
 with the object of my expedition, and that some decided explana- 
 tions lay before me in this direction. 
 
 When we reached the crest of the Wissmann Hills the whole 
 character of the landscape changed on a sudden, as in a fairy 
 tale. Emerging from the steppe, which for three hours had 
 A. region surrounded us, we at once passed into a fruitful, culti- 
 cf plenty, y^ted district. The way led through bananas, and yet 
 again through bananas ; and this day we noticed, for the first 
 time, the grey parrot. My people feasted to their hearts' con- 
 tent on the rich treasures ; and again, as in a fairy tale, we 
 suddenly found everything at our disposal. The people came 
 pouring out of the houses, offering us fat quails in little baskets, 
 and fatted fowls, grain, and fruits. Banana wine was brought 
 out in great bowls for the drinking of healths, and on all sides 
 were heard the lively notes of the flute, or the beating of the 
 fiery drum. Every one bowed low before my mysterious guide, 
 and I could at once perceive that he was a man in authority in 
 these parts. 
 
 At the western foot of the Wissmann Hills I pitched my 
 camp and made my toilette, during which my young unknown 
 friend favoured me with another concert on the flute, when 
 suddenly two shots resounded from the south, and two new 
 figures appeared on the scene. These were the Waganda Marco 
 Marco and and his Companion Talabanga ; and now the veil of 
 Taiabanga. mystery, which had given a character of excitement to 
 our encampment, was suddenly to be dropped. Marco was a 
 man with small features, indicative of unusual intelligence. 
 Like his companion Talabanga, he was a Roman Catholic Chris- 
 tian, and both of them spoke Suahili. They had no sooner 
 taken their seats on the ground before Herr von Tiedemann and 
 m)'self, than I demanded their names and station. When they 
 had answered me on this point, I asked, — 
 
PARTICULARS CONCERNING MUANGA. 343 
 
 " In what country are we here P " 
 
 " We are here in the territory of Muanga, the Mfalme of 
 Uganda, in Usoga. He yonder " (pointing to my friend of the 
 morning) "is Mlamba, son of the Sultan Wachore, whose 
 country, Akola, lies to the north of us, and can be reached in 
 one day." 
 
 " What are you doing here in Usoga ? " 
 
 " Muanga, King of Uganda, has sent us to the English in 
 Kwa Sundu, in Kawirondo, to entreat them to give help to the 
 Christians ; but the English are afraid, they have ^ 
 
 ' ^ 'J The envoys' 
 
 not come. Now we have received intelligence that account of 
 Badutchi are approaching who have beaten the Massais, 
 and that is why we have waited for you here. The letters which 
 you sent yesterday from Kwa Telessa arrived here in the night. 
 I have sent them on to Muanga." 
 
 " Where is Muanga now P " 
 
 " Muanga is on Balingogwe, an island on the Lake Victoria 
 Nyanza. With him there are five white men. Write to him 
 that you have arrived in Usoga, his country, as is the custom 
 with the Waganda. Muanga will be glad if you will come to 
 him." 
 
 "I shall be glad to visit Muanga, and glad to help my 
 Christian brethren in Uganda. But to be able to do this, I 
 must first of all bring up more assistance, and that is Dr. Peters 's 
 why I am now marching direct to Unjoro to the chief fo'vuit 
 of the Turki, who is a German, and a brother of mine. tr^Jo". 
 I will take counsel with him, and he shall give me more men, 
 with whom I will then come to the aid of the Christians in 
 Uganda." 
 
 " You want to go to Unjoro P But do you not know 
 that Kaba Rega is the enemy of the Europeans, and that he 
 will make war against you ? " 
 
 "Yes, but with the help of Emin Pasha I Jhink?I shall be 
 in a position to get the better of Kaba Rega." 
 
 " Emin Pasha P Who is Emin Pasha ? There are no more 
 white men left in Unjoro. They are all gone away with 
 Stanley." 
 
344 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " You are mistaken," I said ; " not all the white men of 
 Unjoro are gone away with Stanley. The chief of them, Emin 
 ftnestion of Pasha, has stayed behind. Do you not know Emin 
 S- P^^ha ? " 
 
 abouts. " I speak the truth. All the white men are gone 
 
 away, and there is not a white man left in Unjoro (Wiote 
 wametoka na hapana wasungu Katika Unjolo). Send letters, 
 and enquire of the white men who are with Muanga. If I am 
 telling you a lie, take my life." 
 
 "But how do you know this.P " 
 
 " How should I not know it P Have I not myself been with 
 Stanley in Busagalla (Ankore), to beg him to give help to the 
 Christians of Uganda ? 
 
 " In his camp I have seen not only his officers, but 
 also Amdallah and Amdallah's daughter, Emin's white man, 
 Stanley's ^^^ besides these many, many Turkis. Some time 
 camp. a,go Amdallah sent to Uganda to buy stuffs from us ; 
 but the people were set upon and plundered by the Wanjoro, and 
 he never received the stuffs. That is why he and all his people, 
 whom I saw with Stanley, were clothed in skins. I have seen 
 them all ; there is no white man left in Unjoro." 
 
 " You exhorted Stanley to bring help to Muanga ? Was not 
 Stanley willing to do this, then ? " 
 
 " No ; he said he must go to the coast. The English are 
 afraid, and that is why they do not come to Uganda. But, for 
 
 Pro osai to J'*^^^ P^^*' ^° ^^^ Write to Muauga before you go farther 
 write to towards Unjoro. "Write to your white brothers who are 
 uanga. ^^.^^^ ^^^ king, and they will confirm to you what I have 
 said. We will march together to Wachore's capital, and you 
 can wait there till the answer comes. If there is a white man 
 left in Unjoro, you can go there. If, however, all the white men 
 are gone from Unjoro, then come and help the Christians in 
 Uganda, and then, if you will, we can all go together against the 
 Wanjoro afterwards." 
 
 " When can I have the answer from Muanga ? " 
 
 " In six or seven days." 
 
 " Good ; then I will send letters to Bulingogwe. Now go ; I 
 
STANLEY AND THE WAG AND A. 345 
 
 will take into consideration what you have said besides, and give 
 you my answer this afternoon." 
 
 As to this communication of Marco's, I have to remark, that 
 Stanley's account of the request of the Waganda to send them 
 help, appears calculated to weaken the importance of the whole 
 affair. At all events, what he says about it in his book (vol. ii., 
 pp. 333-37) does not agree with what I heard confirmed from 
 another quarter in Uganda. Stanley says nothing at all about 
 King Muanga's having put himself in communication with him ; 
 and yet already, on February 13th, Pere Denoit wrote to me as 
 follows from Bulingogwe : — 
 
 " Quant a Emin Pascha, il doit etre arrive en ce moment 
 k Zanzibar, ou meme en Europe. II etait au sud du ^.^^ 
 Nyanza vers la fin d'Aout. Ilyetait arrive en com- DenoU's 
 
 letter 
 
 pagnie de Stanley par la route de Ounyoro, Ousagara, 
 Oucaragwe, etc, sans toucher a I'Ouganda, quoique les Chretiens 
 de ce pays lappelassent k leur secours." 
 
 Thus Pere Denoit says here, then, that the Christians of 
 Uganda had appealed to Stanley for help ; while Stanley himself 
 represents the case as if only the, Christians of Ankore Stanley's 
 had been to him. As Muanga himself told me after- "arch to" 
 wards, he had sent Marco first to Stanley, with a formal irganda. 
 petition for assistance, exactly as he sent him afterwards to the 
 English in Kawirondo. Subsequently, Emin Pasha gave me some 
 exceedingly interesting details about the story of the refusal of 
 this petition on the part of Stanley. From what I was told, 
 Emin Pasha pressed Stanley to grant the Waganda what they 
 wished, but Stanley immediately became downright angry about 
 it. " We are much too weak," he declared repeatedly. " You do 
 not know Uganda, if you think that with our force " (which, by 
 the way, amounted to 1,000 men) " we could go to Uganda." 
 Thereupon Emin Pasha offered to undertake the help of the 
 Waganda Christians by himself with his own people. Stanley 
 flared up at this, declaring the Pasha had no longer a right to 
 any such independent action ; he would have him put under super- 
 vision if he tried to carry out any such plan. He, Stanley, was 
 responsible for the safe return of the Pasha and his people to the 
 
346 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 coast, and without the command of the Queen of England he 
 did not choose to mix himself up with the affairs of Uganda. 
 
 This information, which Stanley does not give in his account, 
 certainly throws a substantially new light on the whole of the 
 New light proceedings. It shows that Stanley did not feel himself 
 tan™^""^' strong enough to go to Uganda, and he accordingly 
 events. omitted this remarkable opportunity of drawing this 
 country into the interests of his own nation. It is the same 
 blunder which Stanley, in my opinion, repeatedly committed, 
 and which gives the whole undertaking such a contradictory, 
 and, to outsiders, such an almost incomprehensible character, to 
 which I shall on occasion again refer. 
 
 Meanwhile I wrote letters to King Muanga in Kiswahili, to 
 Monseigneur Leon Livinhac in French, and to Messrs. Gordon 
 and Walter in English. As the contents of the three letters 
 were identical, I extract the following from the translation of 
 the letter to Livinhac : — 
 
 " MoNSEiGNEUK, — I have the honour to inform you that with 
 a small expedition I have arrived in the land of the Sultan 
 Wachore. When I crossed over the boundary of this land your 
 servant Marco came to me, and told me that the Europeans 
 letter to whom I supposcd to be in Unjoro were in Uganda, and 
 neur^Lfou that he had sent my letters for them to you. Besides 
 Livmhac. ^jjjg^ jjg gg^yg jj^g important information concerning the 
 departure of Emin Pasha with Stanley for Europe. If this news 
 is true, my expedition for Emin Pasha is obviously at an end. 
 
 " Marco tells me that King Muanga would be much gratified 
 if we would come into his land. Monseigneur would oblige me 
 very much by a brief account of the occurrences in the Equa- 
 torial Provinces, and of the reported departure of Emin Pasha. 
 If this news is confirmed, and King Muanga invites me, I am 
 prepared to march to Uganda. 
 
 " In case the news of the departure of Emin Pasha is not 
 confirmed, and you, meanwhile, send me word that the route 
 through Unjoro is not practicable, I shall still be prepared to 
 take my route through Uganda." 
 
COMMISSION ENTRUSTED TO MARCO. 347 
 
 In my letters to Muanga and the Englishmen I added to 
 this, that I was ready to place my small force at the offer to 
 service of civilisation and Christianity, in case the f^lt^^ 
 king requested me to do so. English. 
 
 In the afternoon I sent for Marco again, delivered to him 
 these letters, which were forwarded on the morrow to Uganda, 
 and imparted to him my decision in the following manner : — 
 
 " I have given you these letters, which you are to send to 
 Uganda. Meanwhile I shall continue my march towards Unjoro, 
 as far as the north-west boundary of Wachore's land ; Decision 
 so that in case I receive no satisfactory answer to my oated^o^" 
 enquiry in Uganda I may be able to resume my ^^^^°- 
 advance, either on this side of the Nile, or through Unjoro 
 direct. If it turns out that you have spoken the truth, and if, 
 as I do not yet believe, Emin Pasha has gone away from the 
 territory of the Turki, I shall be ready to go to Uganda to 
 make war against Karema and the Arabs, and to bring back the 
 Christians, my brethren, to Uganda. Therefore, send messengers 
 now to Wachore, and inform him that I shall come into his land 
 to-morrow, and into his capital on the next day, and that I have 
 already put myself in friendly communication with Muanga," 
 
 A loud joyful clapping of hands was the answer to this 
 announcement, and my commands were immediately , 
 
 rrn T 1 1 • Approval 
 
 put into execution. The more I thought over the m- by the 
 formation which Marco had brought, the more I was 
 gradually inclined to disbelieve its accuracy. I conjectured 
 rather that Amdallah might be one of the Egyptian officers of 
 Emin Pasha, who had, perhaps, been put in command of a troop 
 of Egyptian soldiers under Stanley. I thought this all the 
 more when, in answer to my question, " Who is the chief of 
 the whole expedition, Stamuley or Amdallah ? " Marco replied, 
 "Stamuley." This appeared to me scarcely compatible with 
 M'hat I then imagined to be Emin's position. 
 
 A cheerful activity was now displayed in my camp. The 
 supply of meat and drink was abundant, and the M'hole a festive 
 evening the Wasoga ran about through the camp Ayith ^"^^^s- 
 great torches, to light up the drinking, dancing, and playing. 
 
348 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 On the next day we marched onward in a northerly direc- 
 The march tion, keeping the Wissmann Hills always to the right 
 resumed, j^aiid. We met large troops of fantastic-looking Wasoga 
 warriors, who carried tasteful shields of twisted wood, orna- 
 mented at the sides with monkeys' and other skins. They were 
 travelling eastward to the war against the Walandu. 
 
 On this day another porter ran away from me. I did not 
 have him pursued, since the fate of the expedition, now depended 
 on quite other conditions. We went forward through bananas 
 and richly-cultivated land, until, at eleven o'clock;, we again 
 pitched our camp in a splendid banana plantation. ,, .; 
 
 Our life in Usoga was particularly pleasant. We had guides 
 for the march, so that I myself was able to walk along 
 life in in quiet contemplation. When we arrived at any place 
 ^°^^' the natives at once had to turn out of their houses, in 
 which my people were installed, and plenty of food was at once 
 brought, without any one thinking of demanding that we should 
 pay for it. 
 
 A farther march brought us southward to the capital of 
 Wachore, and now, according to the statement of the natives, we 
 had only three marches, or about six expedition marches, to 
 bring us to the Lake Kioga, in the Nile. From that place I 
 could have easily established a communication with Emin 
 Pasha, supposing that he was in his old stations. I had im- 
 „ . mediate communication by the river with his stations 
 
 Communica- ^ ^^ 
 
 tion with Kodyi and Fauvera. Amid extraordinary difficulties 
 
 the stations. ,^ . 
 
 and dangers we had arrived as lar as the borders oi the 
 Equatorial Province from the east. The question was now, 
 whether or not fortune, on her side, would vouchsafe us the 
 reward of so much toil and struggle ? 
 
 I had again repeatedly questioned Marco ; but his state- 
 ments contradicted each other here and there, and so I 
 encouraged myself to hope afresh that perhaps Emin was, after 
 all, at Wadelai, and that it would be vouchsafed to me not only 
 to reach the goal, but to eifect the purpose of the German 
 Relief Expedition. 
 
 If I should meet Emin in Wadelai, I would undertake from 
 
TERRITORY OF USOQA ;—AKOLA. 34'J 
 
 thence to put myself in communication with Muanga, and by a 
 united advance to overthrow Unioro, and so force a free 
 
 I" i ,1 -TT- . n.T Further in- 
 
 passage tor our countryman across the Victoria Nyanza tentions of 
 to the German East African coast, from whence assist- ^^' '^**^'^°' 
 ance could be speedily obtained for him. If this were accom- 
 plished, we could afterwards, when I had been able to learn 
 particulars on the spot, examine the Mahdi problem somewhat 
 closer, to ascertain whether the attempt at least could not be 
 undertaken to put into execution the plans, which the imagin- 
 ation of Europe had devised concerning the movements of the 
 " White Pasha " in the summer of 1888. 
 
 Meanwhile I regarded the land and people of Usoga with a 
 certain increase of interest. This country had been represented 
 on the map until then as merely a white patch. Before GeograpM- 
 we came there, no intelligence of any sort concerning farsT/'"™" 
 it had been brought to Europe by whites ; and yet it is ^^°s^- 
 well worth while to bring the knowledge of Usoga to the white 
 world. For this same country is so fertile, and possesses such a 
 high degree of cultivation, that it is an agreeable surprise for any 
 one marching here from the east ; and there is no question that 
 the land promises to be of great importance in the future 
 development of the dark continent. 
 
 Akola forms a portion of the general territory of Usoga, in 
 which it takes the leading position, through the power and 
 intelligence of its sultan, Wachore. Usoga appears to extend 
 l^-" northward from the lake. Its western boundary is formed 
 by the Nile, which is here called Kiyira, or Nyiro. In the east, 
 and again to the north-west, the Wissmann Hills form a frontier 
 against the Walukuma and the Walundu. This whole scenery of 
 little territory, seen from the top of a hill, resembles a ^^°^'- 
 billowy sea, the crests of whose waves are scattered by the wind. 
 The tops of the hills are mostly crowned by rocks or stones. 
 The journey over the rising ground can be made without any 
 difficulty, generally lying through banana groves. The whole 
 hill country is called in Usoga Namakokowa Wachore. The 
 maximum difference of level between the mountain and 
 the valley, which stretch out lengthways in an irregular 
 
350 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 direction, maj' be about one hundred and fifty to three hundred 
 feet. 
 
 Not until the western part of Usoga is approached do 
 decided mountain chains appear, which stretch out from south- 
 south-west to north-north-east. They cut oif the valley of the 
 Nile on the east. They have a breadth of some twelve miles, 
 The hilly ^"^^ exhibit heights of about 5,500 feet. Towards the 
 region. north they lose themselves in immeasurable distance. 
 The most southerly, and, as it appeared to me, the most impor- 
 tant mountain in these chains which rises over the Nile, is 
 called Ndira Wera (Wera means white. Whether Ndira again 
 is connected with Kiyira or Nyiro, or whether it simply means 
 "way," I was not able to discover). I named these border 
 chains "The Reichart Ranges." 
 
 I encamped under the Ndira Wera on February 1 7th, exactly 
 on the spot where Bishop Hannington and his column were 
 Eeiics of murdered five and a half years ago. The camping- 
 nj^lt^^g^'^'ground is some distance to the north-eastward of 
 party. Ukassa, and we found still a number of skulls and 
 bones there. Here, on the following day, I visited the N3'anza 
 for the first time, having had a view the day previous of a far- 
 reaching creek belonging to it. 
 
 Some half-hour s journey from this camping-place there is 
 a completely enclosed bay of about two square miles in extent, 
 out of which three long narrow creeks extend landwards. This 
 bay is connected by a river-like canal with the Nj^anza, and, 
 j^g indeed, with the farther end of the Napoleon Gulf. 
 
 Mapoieoa Fishermen's huts, picturesquely scattered about in the 
 banana fields, surround the shore. A long hilly ridge, 
 visible on both sides during several days' march, separates this 
 bay from the Napoleon Gulf on the west, and lends to it through- 
 out the character of a large lake. I do not know if Stanley, on 
 whose camping-ground we slept several times, ever saw this bay. 
 I do not find it on the maps. Since it is a noticeable feature in 
 Arendt Bay ^^^ formation of this part of Usoga, I have given it a 
 name, and I have called it " Arendt Bay," and the hilly 
 ridge which closes it in to the west " Schroeder"s Mountain." 
 
THE BANANA MEAT AND DRINK. 
 
 351 
 
 On February ISth we at last encamped on Scliroeder's 
 Monntain, and were only twelve minutes from Napoleon Gulf, 
 which I l:)eheld ibr the first time on that day. 
 
 This little enclosed country of Usoga, which, in its inland 
 parts, may be compared to Thuringia, carries on chiefly the cul- 
 tivation of bananas to a great extent. The banana is „, , 
 
 ■- The banana 
 
 roasted, baked, boiled, eaten raw, and, above all, drunk ; as food and 
 and the people have, moreover, various ways of pre- 
 paring their drinks. The muenge, which resend^les lemonade, 
 
 Mount Schroeder and Aeendt Bay. 
 
 is prepared by pressing the juice out of the ripe fruit without 
 fermentation. 
 
 Besides this there was a strong, bitter, intoxicating drink, 
 which the natives simply call pombe, prepared with nitama ; 
 and still another medium beverage called mritfa, in which the 
 admixture of mtama is wanting. The Wasoga drink or suck 
 up this wine, or this beer, from early morning till late at night. 
 As early as midday my friends, the Sultans, were, as a rule, 
 in a state of considerable joviality. Besides these variously 
 
352 .YETI' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 prepared bananas, man}^ batatas are eaten, and also various kinds 
 of grain and pulse. 
 
 The countr_Y is likewise rich in cattle, sheep, goats, and all 
 sorts of poultry. Besides fowls, they eat a very delicate kind of 
 fat quail, which were brought to us almost daily in little plaited 
 baskets. 
 
 Everywhere we found the Wasoga an amiable, light-hearted 
 
 people. Among them the beer-pot is never empty, and day and 
 
 night the drum and flute are resounding. With regard to race, 
 
 they belong altogether to the Waganda ; a foundation 
 
 AppC&r&llCB , 11'' n 1 •• 
 
 of the of Bantu, with a strong addition oi north-east immi- 
 *="ea- gj-a^tion^ iQ which I shall again refer. But they have 
 softer features, and are undoubtedly among the best-looking 
 races of East Central Africa. There is, in the expression of 
 their eyes and the softness of the lines of their faces, something 
 decidedly feminine ; and it is accordingly the female portion of 
 the population that attract most attention. Their dress, as 
 among the Waganda, is usually of red bark-fibre stuff, which is 
 confined to the waist by a girdle, and covers the whole body ; 
 but various cotton fabrics have already made their way among 
 them, so that a good variety is noticed in their costume. For 
 ornaments, they are fond of pearls and rings, of which 
 costume and latter they manufacture some very tasteful ones them- 
 selves in ironwork. Besides this, they are very skilful in 
 twisted wood- work and mat-making. Indeed, they show in every 
 department of such manufacture a remarkable degree of neat- 
 ness and taste. The same advance from a primitive condition 
 to a higher level of culture is shown in their style of arming 
 themselves. Bows and spears seem to have been the original 
 Their weapous of the people, with a shield of plaited wood, 
 •weapons, fantastically bedecked with skins. Nowadays, however, 
 every one who wishes to be thought of any account endeavours 
 to procure a rifle ; and, indeed, among the men of higher rank, 
 the original muzzle-loader is already thought an inferior weapon, 
 In Usoga, as in Uganda, almost every make of weapon may be 
 found represented, even to the very newest. As a rule, the diffi- 
 culty is with the cartridges, and in these last days with powder 
 
THE WASOGA AND THEIR SULTANS. 353 
 
 and bullet. But I scarcely think that it will he possible ever 
 again to root out the craving for these articles. These tribes 
 will no more be turned back to an uncivilised kind of weapon 
 than will the Arabs. 
 
 The houses are like great bee-hives, shaped like half a 
 globe, or else built with ridges and gables. The interior is 
 strewn with hay or straw, in a clean and comfortable ^asoga 
 manner. Wherever we came it was a matter of course ^^eiiings. 
 for the inhabitants at once to vacate their houses, to make room 
 for our people. 
 
 This country is divided politically into a number of little 
 sultanates, of which the most important is Wachore, in Akola. 
 Wachore means, strictly speaking, the people of Akola, 
 or Achore, which is the same. It appears that every and their 
 sultan of this country bears the name of Wachore, ^°'"^^' 
 which, therefore, would seem to be not a proper name, but a 
 title. All these sultans are subordinate to the mfalnie, the 
 King of Uganda, to whom they are obliged to send yearly a 
 strictly-calculated tribute in ivory, cattle, slaves, and other 
 articles. I believe Wachore would gladly have availed him- 
 self of the disturbances in Uganda at that time, to free himself 
 from this obligation, if only he had had powder enough, and 
 could have relied on all his own countrymen. The Waganda 
 who accompanied me were, for two nights, in fear of an attack 
 by him in Wachoreland ; an apprehension which formed some- 
 thing of a contradiction to their former contemptuous treatment 
 of the W^asoga. But, indeed, Wachore himself was unwilling, 
 after all, to engage in a conflict with us, who had concluded a 
 treaty of friendship with him. In short, the attack did not 
 take place either time, and it is to be supposed Wachore has 
 let the opportunity slip for ever. 
 
 My relations with Wachore were, from the first, of a most 
 cordial nature. I reached the south of his capital on February 
 18th, and a banana plantation belonging to the Sultan Friendly 
 was immediately allotted as a camping-ground for me ^ith"''^ 
 and my people. The Sultan at once sent me, as a 'Wachore. 
 princely gift, two fine milch cows, with their calves, and 
 
 23 
 
3,34 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 indicated his fields and banana groves as a foraging ground for 
 my people. As a return present, I put together for him an Indian 
 silk shawl, a handsome turban, a cask of powder, together with a 
 breech-loader and a dozen cartridges, calibre twelve. I then made 
 \\\y two servants put on their smart, gold-embroidered liveries, 
 and despatched the whole present to Wachore. He, meanwhile, 
 had set out, with the ladies of his harem and a numerous suite, 
 to pay us a ceremonial visit. My messengers met him on the 
 way, and he had already adorned himself with the new turban 
 Avhen he entered our house, about three o'clock in the afternoon. 
 His Highness was in a somewhat " elevated " condition. 
 Probably he had been drinking, to get his courage up. For, 
 A jovial certainly, the most wonderful rumours had preceded us, 
 potentate, ^j^icji^ jf ^j^gy (ji(j jjot precisely mark us out to be 
 
 cannibals, yet represented us as something very much of the 
 kind ; and that the normal occupation of the Badutschi was that 
 of murdering people, was a belief that I found to exist in quite 
 intelligent Waganda men. According to what Marco told me, 
 the English and Arabs spread reports of this kind on the Vic- 
 toria Nyanza. What stamped us specially as such was the 
 fight with the Mangati, and, above all, the driving off of the 
 herds of the Massais. Wachore is a man of about forty years of 
 ■age, with strikingly intelligent and attractive features. A deep 
 .sabre -cut on his face gives proof that he has not shrunk from 
 the turmoil of the battle. He had brought with him large 
 j)itchers of various kinds of wine and beer, and whether we 
 liked it or no, we were forced to pledge him more frequently 
 than we would have wished. He talked and laughed incessantly, 
 and we were soon good friends. His ladies, who glanced slyly 
 out at us from under the fantastic shields, hung with asses' skins, 
 ^j^^ which they held horizontally over their heads, inspected. 
 
 Sultan's in the meantime, with undisguised astonishment, the 
 guests, whose like they had never seen, the tent, the 
 motionless Somalis, standing by in their picturesque splendour. 
 I caused a small mirror to be handed to each of them, for which 
 they thanked me with many coquettish smiles, and, like true 
 •daughters of Eve, they immediately understood the use of them. 
 
ARRIVAL- OF KAMANYIRO KANT A. 355 
 
 Wachore touched lightly upon his relations with the King of 
 Uganda, with a certain diplomatic dexterity. He received us 
 simply as friends of Muanga, and confined himself to wachore's 
 explaining, on his part, that he was a friend of any one ^i'"- 
 whom Muanga recognised as a friend. It struck me that though 
 Marco treated him with an apparent friendliness and courtesy, 
 there was yet a certain degree of self-sufficiency half hidden 
 under ceremonial formalities. 
 
 " My land is your land," said Wachore. " If you wish for 
 anything, let me know, and you shall have it at once." 
 
 At half-past four o'clock he at length withdrew with his 
 suite, and immediately afterwards large baskets of fowls, eggs, 
 and quails, together with sheep and goats, were dragged up to 
 us, as proof that the Sultan had been pleased by this visit to 
 our encampment. 
 
 Scarcely 'had the sound of Wachore's drums and flutes died 
 away in the north, when all at once the mixed music of many 
 more drums and flutes, belonging to a new procession, ap- 
 proached my tent from the west. I asked Marco what this 
 meant, and he answered, — 
 
 "This is the great chief of the Waganda (mkubroa). Do 
 not be friendly with him ; he is bad, and a liar, and he knows 
 not the words of Jesus Christ." 
 
 With genuine astonishment, I presently saw coming towards 
 me a personage, who, from his costume, might have been a fit 
 denizen of an Oriental court, but was such an apparition as 
 I certainly should not have expected to see in Central Africa. 
 
 A dark caftan, embroidered with silver, fell over wide sky- 
 blue trousers, also adorned with silver embroidery. On his 
 head he wore a diadem, made entirely of strings of beads of 
 different colours, artistically interwoven, and rising in the form 
 of a kind of crown. The wearer of this adornment was Kamanyiro 
 Kamanyiro Kanta, the cousin of the late King Mtesa, Muanga's 
 and uncle of Muanga, to whose party he belonged. At '^''^^■ 
 the overthrow of the Christians he had been driven across the 
 Nile by the Arabs, and was now staying in Usoga, where he 
 claimed to represent the interests of his country as ambassador 
 
356 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 extraordinary of Muauga. Under this pretext he had got 
 together a large amount of property, and among the rest a 
 harem of extraordinarily pretty girls. 
 
 He came up to salute me with loud yells, which his musicians 
 accompanied by a wild flourish on their instruments. I then 
 took him by the hand, and led him with slow steps in front of 
 my tent, where he took his seat upon a chair, which he had 
 brought with him, while I seated myself opposite him in my 
 own armchair. Herr von Tiedemann, who had been drawn 
 from his tent by the noise, was not a little surprised to find this 
 new procession with us. 
 
 Kamanyiro Kanta's feeling towards Marco seemed at first ta 
 be one of great irritation. As Marco informed me afterwards, 
 he had asked him reproachfully why he had not brought up the 
 Career of great English expedition from Kawirondo. Kamanyiro's 
 Kamanyiro. pgj.^Q(j of prosperity Seemed to have been in the days of 
 Mtesa, and especially during the months that Stanley spent at 
 Uganda. Accordingly, he felt from the beginning a natural 
 sympathy with the English; a sympathy which he certainly 
 took care to hide from me, but from which he could never quite 
 free himself. Marco, however, made him a very quiet report, in 
 which he paraphrased the old Latin saying, " Ultra posse nema 
 obligatur " (" Since the Englishmen would not come, it had not 
 been possible for him to bring them"). Then he passed on to 
 a description of our expedition, pointed to the cattle that we 
 had taken from the Massais, and further declared that it was 
 I who had beaten the Mangati on the north-east of the Victoria 
 Nyanza. 
 
 At every remark of this kind the old gentleman sprang 
 from his chair, with loud yells, to clasp me in his arms, each 
 embrace being accompanied with a loud flourish from his 
 orchestra, which consisted of about seven performers. 
 
 "When Marco had ended, Kamanyiro said to me, "I salute 
 you, German, as the friend of Muanga, and as my friend ! 
 We are all one. What we possess is yours, and what you possess 
 is ours." 
 
 After this the whole procession, which was composed of 
 
RECEPTION BY SULTAN WACHORE. 357 
 
 about seventy persons, went on its way, and presently had 
 vanished, amid beating of drums and tootling of flutes, like a 
 vivid mirage ; and once again I sat alone in the sweet rest- 
 fulness of the banana grove, on which the full moon shed its 
 light. 
 
 On the following morning we paid our return visit to the 
 Sultan Wachore. 
 
 For visits of this nature we donned a uniform which had 
 been devised by Herr von Tiedemann — white trousers, trimmed 
 with a broad stripe of gold down the side, stuck into Return visit 
 high boots, coming up to the knee, and white jackets, *<> ''^*<'''^<"^6- 
 with red lappets at the shoulders embroidered with gold, and 
 cuffs to the sleeves to match. The helmet was also adorned 
 with bands of gold, and I wore, in addition, a black and gold 
 scarf. Appearances count for much in Europe, and for still 
 more in Central Africa, and it would have shown very little 
 wisdom not to have turned this fact to profit. 
 
 Wachore received us in a dome-like hall, open on one side. 
 He was reclining on an Indian divan, placed on the ground, and 
 was dressed in a black caftan, embroidered with gold. He was 
 smoking a pipe, and had, of course, a large bumper of banana 
 wine at his side, from which he sucked up the intoxicating 
 liquid through a reed. 
 
 " We are come to salute you," I said, when we had taken 
 our seats before him on the chairs we brought with us, " and to 
 tell you that we are your friends, and that we intend to remain 
 your friends." 
 
 "Every one who is the friend of Muanga is niyp^^pj._ 
 friend. I love white men, and am especially glad tomentsand 
 
 ' ^ „ ceremonies. 
 
 be friends with the Germans, who understand war. 
 
 " Have you ever seen any white men ? " 
 
 " Once before this, in Uganda." 
 
 "Now that we have been here among you, no doubt many 
 more white men will come into your country." 
 
 "They will all be welcome," was the repl)^ "and especially 
 the Germans." 
 
 The conversation continued in this style for more than an 
 
358 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 hour, during which the banana wine circulated without inter- 
 mission, and the pipes were refilled. Above Wachore's sofa a 
 few guns were hanging. They were breech-loaders of various 
 construction, and one in particular, a Martini rifle, Wachore 
 A tragic Ordered to be taken down and handed to us. It was 
 accident. ]^q^^ loaded and cocked, and suddenly went off in Herr 
 von Tiedemann's hands. The bullet passed through the head 
 of one of Wachore's attendants, so that his eyeball fell at our 
 feet, and the man was dead in a moment ; and a second was hit 
 on the jaw, which was shattered, and he, too, afterwards ex^Dired. 
 There was a moment's deep silence, and then I apologised to 
 Wachore for Herr von Tiedemann. 
 
 " My friend weeps sorely," I said, " that the weapon went 
 off in his hands." 
 
 Wachore suddenly burst out into a roar of laughter. " It 
 does not signify in the least," he exclaimed ; " the man was 
 only a slave. Your friend did not do it ; it was the gun that 
 did it, so do not trouble yourselves about that." 
 
 The whole court joined in the laughter, that seemed, how- 
 ever, a little forced. The corpse was quickly removed, sand 
 ,. was strewn over the pools of blood, and the bowl of 
 
 Cheap esti- . . ^ . . 
 
 mate of banana wine was immediately handed round again ; just 
 uman i e. ^^ ^]^gjj ^^ Europe a guest has broken a valuable piece 
 of china, and the well-bred hostess is anxious to pass over the 
 unpleasant incident as quickly as possible. Such is the value 
 set on human life in Africa. 
 
 This painful scene was just ended, when Kamauyiro Kanta 
 appeared, with his attendants, and I arranged with them that I 
 should march westward towards the Nile, by slow daily stages. 
 As soon as the answer confirming the report of Emin Pasha's 
 departure arrived from Uganda, I would be ready to march 
 across the Nile M'ith the Wagandas, who had fled to Usoga, and 
 to make the attempt to bring back Muanga and the Christian 
 party into that country. 
 
 We had scarcely returned to the camp before Wachore sent 
 to Herr von Tiedemann a basketful of eggs, to show that he 
 had no ill feeling against him on account of the occurrence at the 
 
.1 BUDGET OF ENGLISH LETTERS. 359 
 
 morning's drinking party. On my side, I sent another gold- 
 embroidered caftan in return to Wachore. 
 
 My people were still not quite easy as to the fate which 
 lay before them. Thinking to inspire them with a greater 
 feeling of security I gave orders that only one sentry should 
 be on duty at night, instead of the four who generally kept 
 guard ; for I knew perfectly well that if we should be attacked 
 in these regions it was quite immaterial how many men were 
 on sentry duty. In any case we should, if attacked, be hope- 
 lessly lost. 
 
 My frame of mind during these days was somewhat agitated 
 and uneasy, with respect to the approaching decision concerning 
 the final object of the expedition. This decision was to be 
 given earlier than I had anticipated. 
 
 According to the agreement, I set out on the following day, 
 advancing slowly towards the west. We now always made 
 short marches, with drums and fifes playing, and regularly 
 pitched our tents in some banana grove. Our life was in every 
 respect a pleasant one, for there were no immediate problems for 
 the expedition to solve. Wachore alone was entirely responsible 
 for the provisioning, and Wasoga provided guides. 
 
 On February 13th we happened to have a great number 
 of Wagandas and Wasogas in our camp. Kamanyiro's band was 
 playing, and the beer was flowing in streams, when Letters for 
 suddenly some Waganda men came up to me, andusiex^ 
 handed me letters. These letters were addressed to^^*"''"'- 
 the gentlemen of the English expedition, and I was on the 
 point of returning them, when I suddenly perceived that on one 
 of them H. M. Stanley was indicated as the sender. A joyful 
 hope thrilled through me at this sight, that the news of 
 Stanley's departure must be incorrect, for if he was now send- 
 ing a letter to Usoga he could not possibly have left the 
 Equatorial Province five months ago. Marco put an end to 
 ray uncertainty by tearing open the letter, and giving it to me 
 to read ; and under the peculiar circumstances in which I was 
 placed, I felt myself perfectly justified in doing so. 
 
 And now the veil fell from the shrouded image, and I saw 
 
360 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 it before me in all its nakedness. The letter was to the follow- 
 ing effect : — 
 
 " Chuech Mission Station, Makolo. 
 " September AtA, 1889. 
 
 " Mr. H. M. Stanley and the expedition for the relief and 
 rescue of £min Pasha haA'e arrived at Makolo Station, at the 
 southern extremity of the Victoria Nyanza, accompanied by 
 Emin Pasha, Signor Casati, forty Egyptians, and about four 
 hundred Soudanese. 
 
 " The Equatorial Province is accordingly abandoned. Lado, 
 
 Mugi Geri, and Dufile have been for some months past in the 
 
 hands of the Mahdi. After the evacuation of Wadelai 
 
 Report 
 
 from H. M. and Nuguru Station most of the troops deserted in a 
 ^"^ ^^' body, and went to Makraka. A small body of troops 
 were last heard of at Msua, but all the soldiers M'ho were 
 found in the province are rebels against the Egyptian Govern- 
 ment, and cannot be trusted by a European. A letter con- 
 taining similar information to this has been sent to Mr. Stokes. 
 Mr. Stanley arrived here on August 28th, 1889. In a few 
 days the expedition will start from here for the coast vid 
 Mpuapua. 
 
 (Signed) "H.M.Stanley." 
 
 Such was the cold, dry purport of the letter. Not a greet- 
 ing to his countrymen ; not a word of counsel or of suggestion 
 Disappoint- to Jackson and his colleagues ! Although I had, for 
 discourage- Several days past, conjectured the kind of news con- 
 ""''*• tained in this letter, the effect on me was simply 
 crushing. So, while I was yet in Muina, Emin Pasha had 
 already been at the southern end of Lake Victoria. When I had 
 landed in Kwaihu Bay he must have quitted his province long 
 before. For this, then, we had endured all the dangers, 
 anxieties, and toils ; to receive this news there, at the very 
 gates of the Equatorial Province ! What could have been the 
 design of Providence in permitting us to advance so far, only to 
 make it clear to us at last that our labours had been all in vain ? 
 
AN OBJECT TO BE ACTTIEVET). 
 
 361 
 
 " I will march on to Wadelai, in s])ite of it," was ni_v first 
 resolve. "Perhaps Emin Pasha av ill come some day or other 
 to deliver ns," was the mocking echo of my thonght. But this 
 impulse of defiance was soon succeeded by more reasonable 
 considerations. 
 
 ^!W,^ 
 
 
 ^'dWl'' 
 
 
 Dr. Peters reads Stanleys Letter. 
 
 There was yet, I knew, a possibility of making the ex- 
 pedition, after all, conducive to the great aims out of whicJi 
 it had arisen. If Emin Pasha was gone, and the Equatorial 
 Province evacuated, the solution lay in the great contrast 
 Ijetween the Christian and the Arab system to the north ot 
 Lake Victoria, in Uganda. I'ganda must lie made a rampart. 
 
362 XEW LIGHT O.Y DARK AFRICA. 
 
 to keep back the deluge of Mohammedanism from invading 
 Determina- the uorth, aud perhaps a starting-point for winning 
 oeed with"" back all that had been lost there. The two English 
 the march, expeditions from the west and from the east had 
 been fearful to interfere in the tangled disturbances of this 
 country. If, then, the German Emin Pasha Expedition suc- 
 ceeded in contributing to the solution of the question in a 
 Christian sense, we should have the right to say to ourselves, 
 that the toils which had led us to Wachore's capital had not 
 been in vain. The expedition would then have effected a 
 tangible object, and we should be able, with a clear conscience, 
 to meet those who had sent us out. At the same time, I might 
 hope to have an opportunity of working for the furtherance 
 of the special national interests of Germany in Uganda. I 
 learnt afterwards that, even before my expedition started, 
 Uganda had been ceded to England, but no information of 
 the cession had been communicated to us. A great German 
 expedition had been allowed to march into these countries, 
 without its having been thought necessary to vouchsafe to it 
 any information whatever on that important transaction. 
 
 On February 13th, 1890, I was naturally under the impres- 
 sion that the die that settled the fate of Uganda had not as yet 
 Up to been cast in Europe ; that the prize of the contest was 
 Uganda! g^jj^ ^^iexB, and would fall to the lot of the boldest ; and 
 that in any case the monopolising of the country for the special 
 interests of England could yet be prevented. This prospect 
 could not fail to be a seductive one, and to nerve my resolution. 
 Providence had rendered abortive all our plans regarding Unjoro 
 and the north. To resist fate was beyond our power. On the 
 other hand, it pointed us clearly and unmistakably to the 
 south-west, where vast interests of civilisation were at stake. 
 Up then, and away to Uganda ! 
 
 Half an hour after the receipt of Stanley's letter, — which, by 
 Preparation ^^^ ^^'^^^ ^ ^^^* 0"^ t° Kawiroudo, — I gave orders to my 
 for depar- columu to hold itself in readiness for the march, to 
 
 ture. ' 
 
 turn off" towards Uganda early on the following day. 
 I was well aware what risk I once more took upon myself by 
 
HOPING FOR TBE BEST. 36S 
 
 SO doing ; but I can honestly say, that although I saw that I could 
 now make. an honourable retreat upon the English expedition in 
 Kawirondo, which I had reason to believe would at any rate not 
 be hostile to us, I never for one moment entertained the thought 
 of so doing. 
 
 In the evening I sat longer than usual in serious conversa- 
 tion with Herr von Tiedemann, in front of my tent. The twi- 
 light of the banana grove conjured up grotesque images before 
 our eyes, and a gentle night wind rustled through the waving 
 leaves. In the distance could be heard the drums, fifes, and 
 songs of the Wasoga men ; in the camp all was still. 
 
 Afterwards, when I lay down to rest, there came over my 
 heart an infinite sense of forlornness and a profound self-pity. 
 My thoughts wandered back to my country, which had conflicting- 
 allowed it to come to pass that a foreign power should e^oti""'- 
 dare to deprive us of almost every means of making our appear- 
 ance effectively, here on the scene of action. I seemed to be a 
 repudiated man, and my passion of distress was lightened by an 
 outburst of convulsive sobbing. Without, the night wind swept 
 through the rustling leaves of the banana groves ; the lofty 
 boughs of the tall fig-tree, beneath which my tent had been 
 pitched, swayed in the wind, and whispered to each other strange 
 weird stories. At last, my spirit was soothed into a quiet 
 composure, and bowed itself in submission to the eternal and 
 inscrutable designs of Providence. 
 
 The rising sun found us next day on our march towards the 
 south-west. I wanted to cross the Nile at Jinga, above the 
 Ripon Falls ; and I again despatched letters to Muanga, with 
 the request that he would send boats to Grant's Bay, that from 
 there I might open communications with the Christian party 
 across the lake. 
 
 Our further journey onward towards Usoga was accomplished 
 in a very agreeable manner. The daily marches were short, 
 out of consideration for Kamanyiro and his surround- pieasant 
 ings. There was abundance of food and drink, and JJ^^^g^'' *"" 
 in the afternoons and evenings we were entertained ^^oe*- 
 by the dances and songs of the girls of Kamanyiro's harem, to 
 
tl 
 
 364 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 which entertainments we were regularly invited after dinner ; 
 sometimes, also, an assembly of the people was called, in which 
 Kamanyiro would convey our greetings to the Wasoga men, and 
 assure them of the close friendship Avhich united us to himself. 
 As the afternoon drew on Kamanyiro invariably got drunk ; but 
 as he was always in a good humour, he contributed in no small 
 degree to the hilarity of the expedition. Indeed, it was alto- 
 gether an extraordinary contrast, when I thought of the times 
 when we were marching over the high plateaus beneath the 
 Kenia, or over the Angata na Nyuki. Kamanyiro's drummers, 
 like all his other followers, were one-eyed. When I 
 
 Kaman- . . •' 
 
 yiro's one- asked him how it happened that he had engaged none 
 eye men. ^^^ one -eyed people, he made a gesture with his hand, 
 to indicate the action of tearing out a man's eye, and, with a 
 .snap of his fingers towards the ground, cried, " Eh, it looks 
 better ! " This one-eyedness was, as it were, the livery of 
 Kamanyiro's servants, and was not by any means the effect of 
 accident ; the old gentleman himself knew best how it had 
 been brought about. 
 
 On February 16th, I at length received the letters from 
 Uganda which confirmed the news of Emin Pasha's departure, 
 and invited us to come to the aid of the Christian party. At 
 the same time the French certainly told us that plague, 
 famine, and black small-pox were raging in the country. This, 
 however, did not have any effect on my decision. 
 
 On February 1 8th I encamped, as I have mentioned, on the 
 spot where Bishop Hannington had paid with his life for the 
 Bjgjj jj^jj_obstinacy with which he had persisted in his march 
 nington's from the east to Uganda, in spite of the warnings given 
 
 murder. , . _ . . , ^ , 
 
 him on the subject, in the most urgent manner, by the 
 French and English. The Sultan Douba, who had executed the 
 punishment of death on Hannington, had fled at the approach 
 of our expedition, and kept entirely aloof from us. I should 
 have dearly liked to avenge on him the murder of a white man ; 
 although, as a matter of fact, he had merely carried out a 
 judicial sentence pronounced in the capital. 
 
 The Waganda have an old prophecy, according to which an 
 
ARRIVAL AT TEE NILE. 365 
 
 expedition coming from the east is to " eat up " the land and 
 make an end of the dynasty of the Wakintu. For that reason 
 the approach from the east has always been strictly forbidden, 
 and my expedition was the first which had entered the country 
 from that direction. Muanga had, accordingly, forbidden 
 Hannington to come to Uganda from Kawirondo, and cause of 
 had even sent him boats, to carry him to Usukuma, and ^^^ '='^™^- 
 thence to Uganda. Bishop Hannington's death, therefore, had 
 no connection whatever with the persecution of the Christians, 
 which happened later, but was occasioned by entirely different 
 considerations, which had nothing at all to do with religion. 
 
 On February 19th the waters of the sacred Nile suddenly 
 gleamed at my feet. I must confess that a thrill of proud 
 triumph ran through me when I beheld the Nile. The Arrival at 
 little German Emin Pasha Expedition had achieved ^^^ ^'■^^■ 
 what none had ever accomplished before. Tana, Baringo, the 
 Nile ! With only some sixty men, we had penetrated through 
 Gallas and Massais, to the eastern boundary of Uganda. What- 
 ever Fate might yet have in store for us, in every case honour 
 was saved. 
 
 I pitched my camp about fifty paces above the river bank. 
 Hundreds of Christian Waganda, especially girls and women, 
 came crowding round to greet us. They welcomed us -welcome 
 as deliverers and liberators ; but declared, in answer to christian 
 my proposal that they should go with me to the "Waganda. 
 opposite bank, that they were quite willing to do so, but would 
 wait for " two days." The attachment and confidence of these 
 people struck me as something quite touching and affecting. 
 
 When, on the following morning, I directed the passage of 
 my expedition across to Uganda, the whole right bank of the 
 Nile was covered with hundreds of these figures, clad in gar- 
 ments of brown fibre cloth. I had had my chair set up on a 
 prominence, on the right bank of the river, so that from that 
 position I might superintend the passage of the caravan. 
 
 Below me was displayed an extremely gay and animated 
 scene ; the fantastic Waganda boats, with their long projecting 
 prows, adorned by branchiog antlers hung with skins and beads. 
 
366 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 crowded along on the water, to embark my people and the 
 cattle. These boats are made of planks sewn together and 
 Handsome held firm by a series of strong ribs* Above these ribs 
 thf ^ °^ small benches are arranged for the rowers, on which, 
 waganda. according to the size of the boat, from fourteen to thirty 
 rowers take their places, and propel the vessel by means of a 
 kind of paddle. On one of the benches aft stands the singer, 
 who directs the whole, and whom the rowers accompany in 
 chorus with their rhythmic songs. The helmsman sits in the 
 bow. The whole presents a picturesque appearance. The rate 
 of progress, when the men work lustily, is a very fair one — as 
 much as five English miles an hour. The boat has a sort of 
 keel, by means of which it cuts swiftly through the water ; the 
 end of this keel is prolonged beyond the fore part of the boat, 
 and forms the great beak or prow before mentioned. The 
 vessel, altogether, recalls the representations sometimes seen on 
 Lavish Egyptian temples. But what a lavish waste of power 
 ture^f^ is displayed by the whole arrangement of these vessels ! 
 labour. From twenty-five to thirty men are required to trans- 
 port six or seven passengers or eight or ten loads across the 
 lake ! No one can wonder that the result of work obtained is 
 everywhere in Africa so insignificant, when power is wasted in 
 this way. 
 
 Meanwhile the transport of my men and luggage and of 
 the cattle was quickly effected. Load after load was 
 
 Passage . ^ •' 
 
 across t ( deposited on the opposite shore, which I had already 
 visited on the previous day. When all had been carried 
 across, I passed over myself with the flag to the left shore, and 
 then marched at once with my column in a southern direction 
 to a plantation of Kamanyiro's, where I purposed to encamp for 
 the day. 
 
 The crossing was accomplished a few hundred paces above 
 Ripon Falls. The Nile is here about 6,500 feet in breadth. 
 Eipon The Ripon Falls are precipitated on the left or Uganda 
 ■^^"^- side in a cataract, and on the other side in the form of 
 rapids, towards the north. 
 
 The fall may be from twenty to forty feet in height. It is 
 
ARRIVAL IN UGANDA. 367 
 
 astonishing what a number of fish are carried down by these 
 falls. The Waganda have a curious method of catching them. 
 They drag them out of the water, at a place immediately Fishing by 
 under the falls, with a large hook, without using any ^^^ ^^^^'■ 
 bait. It is probable that the fish are so stunned by the fall 
 down the cataract that they are easy to catch. I saw a man 
 bring out nine or ten large fish in five minutes. The fish are 
 excellent eating. There were both flat fish and some of the 
 salmon kind, which made a very agreeable variety in our 
 monotonous bill of fare. 
 
 Towards twelve o'clock we had reached Kamanyiro's planta- 
 tion, and established our first camp on the soil of Uganda. 
 "When the last of the boats which had carried Kaman- „. 
 
 First en- 
 
 yiro and his men across to us turned back towards oampment 
 Usoga, a kind of oppression stole over my heart. We ^^ ^^^ *' 
 were now manifestly face to face with dangers which exceeded 
 all those that lay behind us. I neither knew Muanga and the 
 temper of his faction, nor had I any information as to the 
 position of the Arabs. How if the boats which I expected to 
 meet me at Grant s Bay were not there ? Must I not then 
 assume that the Arab faction would try, under all circum- 
 stances, to prevent my joining Muanga .P And how^^^^ ^^ 
 could I entertain any reasonable hope, if they resorted ous enter- 
 to force, to escape being destroyed, with my whole 
 expedition ? I knew for certain that we were in no condition 
 to resist Karema, if he were to make a resolute attack upon us. 
 We could certainly sell our lives as dear as possible, but there 
 could be no thought of a victory, or even of escape, in case we 
 were attacked by the Arabs. So that our position at this time 
 was just that of men playing at hazard and risking everything 
 against the bank. 
 
 When we entered Kamanjiro's plantation, with drums beat- 
 ing and colours flying, my people were jovial and of good cheer. 
 But my own feelings were more serious than ever, and the 
 immediate future rose in a threatening form before my mind. 
 
The old. must fall, and time itself must chanpe, 
 And lliiis new life shall hlossom frum the rniiis.' 
 
 SCHILLEE. 
 
 IF my mind was iiielint'd to super- 
 stition, I foiuid occasion I'or 
 jiloomy forebodings immediately upon 
 our entrance into Uganda. I had 
 seated myself under a tree, and given 
 orders to my servant Rukua to pitcli 
 my tent on a spot which I pointed out 
 to him. Rukua placed his Lancaster 
 repeating rifle against a banana tree, 
 and was just preparing to carry out 
 „ ^ , . my orders, when all at once 
 
 Fatal acci- - ' 
 
 dent to a shot was heard, and he fe 
 
 Eukua. Ill- p mi 
 
 bleeding at my leet. llic 
 bullet had entered his body close to 
 tJie spine, ])assed through the lungs, and come 
 out under the left arm. I thought for a 
 moment that the shot was fired by Talabanga through care- 
 lessness, and had already drawn my revolver to punish him 
 
DISAPPOINTMENT AT GRANT'S BAY. 369 
 
 for it, when I saw that Rukua had been shot down by his 
 own weapon. He had again, in defiance of my repeated 
 warnings, been carrying it not only loaded, but cocked; 
 it had slipped down from the banana tree, and gone off as 
 it fell. 
 
 There was no chance of the faithful fellow's surviving. We 
 bandaged the wound at once, but every breath he drew came 
 whistling through the shot holes, and black spirts of , 
 blood welled out on the ground. He at once began to death and 
 wander, calling incessantly on my name, and that of ^^^ ' 
 his friend and countryman, Selek. I had him placed on my 
 bed and carried into a hut close by ; but he died within half-an- 
 hour, and we had only the sad satisfaction of giving him an 
 honourable funeral. I now forbade any further carry- precaution- 
 ing of loaded guns throughout the whole expedition ; ^"^y '"^**'^- 
 for the mere marching with them was a serious danger to life 
 •and limb, quite apart from any hostile attack. 
 
 In the afternoon Kamanyiro came to me as usual, and 
 brought me the information that the boats which were to carry 
 ns to Muanga were waiting for us in Grant's Bay. 
 
 The next morning we accordingly started for that place. 
 We marched first along the high road which leads from Usoga 
 to Mengo, but soon after nine o'clock turned away from it to 
 the left, and made a wide circuit round the bay so as to ^^^ ^^^^^ 
 reach its south-western extremity. Here we arrived at not pro- 
 noon, to find that no boats were there ; but I received, 
 instead, a letter from Mr. Gordon, inviting me to march over- 
 land to Mengo. 
 
 " BuLiNGOGWE, J^eST-Mosr!/ 18«/i, 1890. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — Muanga, King of Uganda, thanks you for your 
 letter of February 14th, 1890. He wishes us to tell you that the 
 plague was ravaging the island where we all lived crowded to- 
 gether. We left that island, and intend to return to ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ 
 Mengo, to the mainland. We have no fear of the plague King 
 
 .,...-,■, lluanga. 
 
 there, for there is not a human bemg living m the place. 
 
 The king sends you a messenger, named Mika Sematimba, who 
 
 24 
 
370 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 understands Kiswahili, and will be your guide to Mengo, 
 where you will meet the king. Muanga invites you to come 
 quickly, and if you will cross the lake to Usukuma, he will give 
 you canoes. 
 
 " Yours faithfully, 
 
 " E. C. Gordon." 
 
 The correspondence with Muanga was carried on by means 
 of boats on the Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 I now found myself in anything but an agreeable position. 
 The Christians on the islands urged me to go overland to the 
 Doubtful capital, and they would then place themselves in com- 
 position, munication with me from the opposite island. Between 
 me and the capital lay a completely desolate region, and I had' 
 no accurate information concerning the attitude of the Arab 
 party. I had, indeed, been informed that the Arabs had recently 
 been driven back by the Christians before Mengo, but even 
 after this occurrence the court had still remained on the 
 islands, and the messengers told me expressly, that Karema also 
 was still in the north of Uganda. How could I suppose that he 
 would refrain from attempting to prevent my effecting a junc- 
 tion with the Christians P 
 
 I sent for Kamanyiro in the evening, and said to him, — 
 
 " You told me yesterday that I should find boats to-day here 
 in Grant's Bay on Lake Victoria. Well, where are these 
 boats P " 
 
 " The boats are not there." 
 
 " I know that myself. I am a German, and we Germans do 
 ^ , ,. not like people to tell us lies. If there were no boats 
 
 Declaration ^ y 
 
 ofKaman- here, why did you say yesterday that we should find 
 
 yiro Kanta. „ „ 
 
 some ? 
 
 " My people had reported it to me." 
 
 " Yes, indeed, your people had reported it to you. I do not 
 believe your words, and I advise you in future to refrain from 
 acting towards me in such a manner. I now inform you that 
 we shall start to-morrow morning to march towards Mengo ; 
 but I shall no longer march after the manner of the Waganda, 
 
PLAIN SPEAKING TO KA2IANYIR0. 371 
 
 men, as I did in Usoga, but in the German fashion ; that is, 
 we shall move quickly forward, from before sunrise in Definite in- 
 the morning till afternoon, to get to Mengo as quickly ^J jj*'""' 
 as possible. Have your men in readiness, therefore, and Meters, 
 send everyone who is not able to march quickly, back across 
 the Nile for the present, to Usoga. I especially advise you to 
 send back your women there. If you are not able, yourself, to 
 accompany me, you can also return to Usoga. These are my 
 orders, and I now leave it to you whether you will obey them 
 or not." 
 
 This tone was to some extent new to the old Uganda chief, 
 who on the day before had had a whole village flogged, simply 
 to give us an idea of his power. I may refer to the statements 
 of Emin Pasha and of Stanley, to show with what arrogance 
 these chiefs were formerly accustomed to behave towards white 
 men. Kamanyiro had already tried once in Usoga to take that 
 tone with me. One morning, when I gave the signal for starting 
 and my tent was already taken down, he sent a servant with 
 the message, that I might as well have the tent put up again, 
 as we should not march that day. I thereupon sent for ^^^^j^g^jj^. 
 him, and asked him drily whether he was of opinion that ing with 
 
 . Ill Kamanyiro. 
 
 I had lost my wits during the night, or whether that 
 calamity had happened to himself; — after which, in three 
 minutes' time, we found ourselves amicably marching along 
 together. 
 
 Here on the Nile was the province of which Kamanyiro was 
 Governor, and the very next day was to bring his antiquated 
 claims into open conflict with the ideas which we had been 
 accustomed to carry out in the expedition. On this day, before 
 sunrise, we had already climbed the ridge that encloses Lake 
 Victoria like the walls of a crater. Uganda in its south- 
 western portions is less fertile than Usoga., It may be ^^^^^^ 
 said that in Usoga the greater part is cultivated, and dessert ^ 
 in Uganda the greater part is steppe. The whole 
 country parallel to Lake Victoria is framed by a hilly range 
 forming a table-land; and a similar mountain formation 
 extends along the Nile to the north, as far as the eye can range. 
 
372 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 The formation of the mountains is very singular, such as I have 
 never seen elsewhere ; always table-shaped, with blunt flattened 
 summits. 
 
 These hills stretch uninterruptedly as far as the north-east 
 angle of the lake, to the mouth of the Katonga near Buddu. 
 As I said before, the mountains generally slope abruptly down 
 to the lake, in crater-like formation. 
 
 As the lake runs into the land in many bays, and a row of 
 more or less beautiful islands lies facing the shore, the view 
 from the heights is extraordinarily attractive and 
 from the picturesque. If the eye is allowed to wander towards 
 ^^ °' the right, over the plateau northwards, a broad plain 
 is seen stretching out, only broken here and there by isolated 
 hills. Where the land slopes away to the north 1 ie the 
 villages and plantations of Waganda, everywhere enclosed by 
 ever-green banana groves, surrounded by fields of corn and 
 batatas. The whole scene makes a curious but a very pleasing 
 impression. 
 
 The billows of war had not yet rolled to this farthermost 
 south-west corner of Uganda. It was not until the second day 
 that we came to a devastated and burnt- out district. Here we 
 ^j^^ found people still left, who gazed in mute fear at the 
 
 astonished great black, white, and red flag, which in front of our 
 expedition was carried for the first time through 
 Uganda. 
 
 As I well knew that in the case of possible Arab enterprise I 
 should have to rely principally on moral impressions, I had taken 
 care that our reputation should precede us, and had been 
 ■careful above all to bring with me from Usoga a band of war 
 March in ^i^ums, which should send the signal of war resounding 
 military before US over the far-spreading heights; — three drums 
 tuned in fifths, on which the roll was beaten, and the 
 big drum coming in between, the whole producing a solemn and 
 threatening effect. 
 
 In this way we went on the whole morning, in a westerly 
 direction. We passed over one chain of hills after another, 
 and in the valleys several watercourses were crossed, which 
 
r" 
 
 .n 
 
 i 
 
 Jif^^ 
 
 tf^ 
 
 
 S' 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 \^ 
 
KAilANYIRO'S DUPLICITY FRUSTRATED. 373 
 
 carry the waters of Uganda into the Victoria Nyanza. On 
 February 22nd I encamped in Ischioragama, a large Encamp- 
 and well-preserved plantation belonging to the king, J^oMorl- 
 with a broad road running straight through it, along- ga^a. 
 side of which I established my encampment. 
 
 Kamanyiro Kanta did not make his appearance until an 
 hour after our arrival, and even then he was very weary, and 
 groaning from his exertions. I went a few steps forward to 
 meet him and congratulate him, a little ironically, on his 
 prowess in marching. I then took him by the hand and led 
 him, as usual, to the chair in front of my tent. But now the 
 old gentleman suddenly broke out into a flood of in- „ 
 
 , *^ Kaman- 
 
 vectives and curses, of which I certainly did not under- yiroKanta's 
 stand all, as they were principally directed to the large '^ ""^"y' 
 crowd of Waganda men who stood round ; but I gathered that 
 they were chiefly levelled at the arrogance of white men, who 
 imagined that they could now play the part of conquerors in 
 Uganda. He wound up his address with the announcement to 
 me, that the king had sent word I was now to remain for three 
 days in Ischioragama. I answered Kamanyiro, very quietly, 
 that in future, when he wanted to hold a conference with his 
 assembled people, he must be kind enough to choose some other 
 place for it than my tent ; and, in addition to this, he was not 
 to bawl so loud when he was close to me, as I could hear very 
 well. As regarded his communication, I did not believe Muanga 
 had made any such demand upon me. Moreover, even if this 
 were the case, I should not be in a position to fulfil it, as it did 
 not suit my manner of travelling. 
 
 "You say that this way of travelling is your custom in 
 Uganda. Well, you Waganda may keep to it. So far as I am 
 concerned, you can stay not only three days, but three Dr.Peters's 
 years, here in Ischioragama. For my part, I am a "p^^- 
 German, and am accustomed not to copy the ways of strangers, 
 but to follow my own." 
 
 Hereupon Kamanyiro poured forth a fresh torrent of 
 imprecations. He had always said so— the white men would 
 " eat up " Uganda yet,— but that all came from their allowing 
 
374 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the words of Jesus there now, and letting the old religion 
 perish. 
 
 Then I stood up, and said to Kamanyiro, "Now I desire to be 
 alone. Go away to your own houses." 
 
 Then, as he did not obey this request, I summoned some 
 
 Somalis to my aid, which had a completely terrifying effect on 
 
 the Waganda men. Much as I was disposed to make 
 
 Summary . 
 
 dismissal of some allowance for the self-willed obstinacy of an old 
 amanyiro. -^^^^^^ chief, I did uot think it conducive either to 
 German or to our own interests to play the part which former 
 travellers — Stanley above all — had been content to act. As I 
 learned in Uganda, Stanley had been kept there a complete 
 prisoner for seven months, and Kamanyiro always quoted him 
 when he came to me with demands. Upon these grounds, I 
 was very glad of the opportunity of making clear to the old 
 gentleman, in the first place, that there was a difference between 
 the year 1889 and the time when Stanley was in Uganda; 
 secondly, that when a man came at the head of an armed expe- 
 dition to the assistance of the King of Uganda, it was not the 
 same thing as when Stanley entered the country alone, and 
 only on a visit ; and thirdly, that apart from all this, I was not 
 inclined to play the traditional part accepted by white European 
 travellers in this part of Africa. 
 
 When I had dismissed Kamanyiro, I wrote the following 
 letter to Mr. Gordon : — 
 
 " IscHiORAGAMA, February 22nd, 1890. 
 
 " Dear Sir,— Kamanyiro Kanta informed me to-day that the 
 king had sent him word that I was to remain here three days, 
 letter to As tMs is in direct contradiction to your letter of 
 the'mis^- "'yesterday, I cannot believe that it is true. But, how- 
 
 sionary. g^gj. ^j^g^^ .^^^ -^q^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^ aCCOrd with 
 
 my plans and the manner of my journey, and I shall conse- 
 quently continue my march to Mengo. I shall encamp to- 
 morrow at Katente, and the day after at Wakarimbue. Kindly 
 ask the king whether it is really his wish that I should wait for 
 
DIFFICULT POSITION OF THE DIPLOMATIST. 375 
 
 three days in a plantation by the roadside. Let me have a 
 brief answer. There is no food here for my expedition. 
 
 " Yours sincerely, 
 
 " Cabl Peters. 
 " To E. 0. Gordon, Esq." 
 
 I sent this letter at once to Kamanyiro Kanta, with the 
 request that he would forward it across the lake to the king. 
 Kamanyiro, who may very well have guessed the contents, 
 after breakfast sent to me the supervisor of his harem — who 
 was accustomed to preside at our afternoon entertain- Kamanyiro 
 ments — with the remark, that he noticed on the march ap^re^-'^ 
 my sheep did not get along very well. He feared J^e^sions. 
 that, if I continued to advance in the same manner, I should 
 lose very many of my sheep. I could not restrain a smile at 
 this, but I sent back the reassuring answer that from Massai- 
 land, where I had acquired them as spoils of war, to this place, 
 the sheep had got used to much longer marches. Besides, it 
 mattered little if some of them were lost ; when this flock came 
 to an end, I should very well know where to get another. 
 
 Upon that, Kamanyiro sent word back : " Did I wish the 
 letter to the king to be sent to-day or to-morrow ? " I answered, 
 "To-day," and, in fact, "immediately." 
 
 Meanwhile evening was drawing on, when suddenly I heard 
 my old friend coming towards me in grand procession. He 
 drove before him several oxen for slaughter, and Renewed 
 brought fowls in baskets, and some bananas and '"^*- 
 honey. With loud yells, as was his custom, he sought to 
 embrace me, which in a very cool, dry manner, I stopped him 
 from doing. He then seated himself by my side, in front of 
 my tent, trying to hide his confusion from his companions by 
 continual chattering and laughing. He also tried repeatedly, 
 after his old fashion, to drink with me, which I, however, 
 courteously declined. I purposely refrained from speaking of 
 my departure on the following morning, and was now curious 
 to see whether Kamanyiro would stay behind or attach him- 
 self to me. 
 
376 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Next morDing, as we were about to start, we noticed that his 
 women were already prepared for a journey ; and when, towards 
 Kaman- mid-day, I had set up my camp in Katente, he came 
 fheVro^' up to greet me, limp as a broken lily. On the way he 
 cession. jja,d complained to Herr von Tiedemann, that he was 
 an old man, and could not march as we young people did. I 
 advised him accordingly to have a litter made for himself, and 
 let his slaves carry him in it ; but Kamanyiro declined this. 
 He may well have feared that his slaves, who one and all hated 
 him from the depths of their souls, would seize some oppor- 
 tunity of launching him down a precipice. However that may 
 have been, from this time forward our relations to each other 
 were established on a proper footing, and this remained a 
 precedent in all my future dealings with the Waganda. 
 
 After we left Katente, we came into a perfectly desolate 
 country. Not only were the villages burnt, and the groves of 
 
 bananas destroyed, the whole landscape was simply burnt 
 region of up, and lay there a black expanse. By the roadsides 
 
 lay skeletons and corpses still in process of decom- 
 position, poisoning the air. The sunshine, which had smiled 
 over Usoga, had vanished ; the heavens were for the most 
 part covered with grey clouds, and the wind either in fitful 
 gusts whirled the black heaps of ashes up in the air, or flung 
 sudden cold showers on the expedition. The carrion vultures, 
 who were gorging themselves with the flesh of the unburied 
 corpses, seemed to be the only inhabitants of this land. Every 
 trace of human beings had vanished. An oppressive desolation 
 filled our hearts. For even if these impressions were not 
 powerful enough to shake our resolution, they could not help 
 to have a great influence on our spirits. Dull and almost 
 spectrally echoed the roll of our drums from the hills, as we 
 crossed the heights one after another. "When we descended 
 A gloomy into the valleys, there would be a brook or a water- 
 march, course to pass over, whose broken bridge increased 
 the aspect of desolation around us. And who was to warrant 
 us that from behind any of the rocks on these hill ridges, over 
 which we had to march, we should not be suddenly greeted by 
 
A WELCOME REINFORCEMENT. 377 
 
 a volley from the Arab followers of Karema? Who could 
 have deemed his own life secure from one five minutes to 
 another, by day or by night ? 
 
 So we went on, anxious and gloomy, and joyless was the 
 time spent in the dreary encampment, which no longer yielded 
 us any sustenance. Thus we travelled on, two days more, past 
 Kigogorro and Numuyango, until, on February 25th, the road 
 suddenly began to become lively once more. In the 
 first instance, I received on this day the answer to Dr.peters-s 
 my letter from Ischioragama, which informed me that ^*"*'^' 
 the king had given no order whatever to stop me anywhere. 
 On the contrary, he was desirous that I should come to him as 
 soon as possible. 
 
 The road, which for the last part of the way had wound 
 round Murchison Bay in a north-westerly direction, turned 
 suddenly to the southward. At this point some of Muanga's 
 soldiers were stationed, who welcomed us with ioyful . 
 
 . «• •' A scene of 
 
 shouts, presenting us with golden-yellow bananas, and brightness 
 pledging us in foaming drinks fronj. mighty pitchers. ^^ ^°^' 
 We were approaching Kisallosallo, a plantation of the king's, 
 some miles to the north of the capital, Rubaja-Mengo. From 
 all sides Muanga's soldiers hurried up ; their line of outposts 
 had been pushed forward during the last two days as far as 
 Kisallosallo. We now reached the place, and were so far in 
 safety, since the united fighting power of Muanga and my own 
 men would be sufficient to stand against the Arabs, Wanjoros, 
 and the Mahdi's followers from the north. 
 
 We pitched our camp in Kisallosallo, and I immediately 
 sent messengers to the king, to announce to him our arrival in 
 the neighbourhood of his capital. I learned that I -^^^ ^^ 
 should meet Muanga in the morning at Mengo, and King mu- 
 that the French mission intended to transfer its 
 quarters thither from Bulingogwe on the following night. 
 In the evening Muanga's drum-band met us, to honour us with 
 a tattoo, and to accompany us solemnly on the following 
 morning into the capital. 
 
 The early dawn found us, as usual, on the march. A broad 
 
378 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 road led us over two more ridges of hills, now ever in a 
 southerly direction ; from all sides crowds of people came 
 hurrying along, either to offer us joyful greetings or in 
 respectful silence to watch us as we marched by. To the right 
 I noticed a line of buildings, which looked, from a 
 
 Approach . . - , 
 
 to the , distance, like pyramids, but were m reality cone- 
 capi a . ^ g]ja,ped. I learned afterwards that they were funeral 
 monuments of Mtesas and the kings of the Wakintu dynasty. 
 
 Suddenly, a handsomely-dressed servant of Muanga's hurried 
 up to me, murmured a few words, and vanished as swiftly as 
 he had appeared. Marco informed me that he brought a 
 message from Muanga, which expressed the anxiety of his 
 master to see me at once. This was repeated three or four 
 times. 
 
 A hill now rose up before me, on which I perceived some 
 buildings. This, I was told, was Mengo. At the bottom of 
 this hill we wheeled round towards the left hand, to turn into a 
 banana grove, where a flourishing plantation had been set apart 
 for us for our temporary abode. I quartered my soldiers in the 
 huts, but had the tents set up for ourselves, according to my 
 custom. I then made a hasty toilet and shaved myself, ready 
 to present myself before the king. 
 
 Every five minutes messengers appeared from his majesty, 
 always repeating the same entreaty, that we would come as 
 quickly as possible, — the king was dying of eagerness to behold 
 us. This is Uganda courtesy, with which we were here made 
 Solemn pro- acquainted for the first time. We dressed ourselves, 
 cession. ^^^ ^j^g soldiers, with a few selected porters, were 
 marched up. With the flag borne in advance, we went slowly 
 along the wide road up to Mengo, to pay our first greeting to 
 Muanga, the Mfalme and Kabaka of Uganda. 
 
 The farther we advanced up the hill, the more dense became 
 the throng. On the top of the hill was an enclosed space, like 
 a meadow, into which we entered through a gate. To right 
 and left were drawn up Muanga's soldiers, presenting arms, 
 lining the approaches to an impromptu hall of audience, built 
 of reeds. The roll was beaten on European drums, and 
 
MUANGA, LOURDEL, GORDON, AND WALKER. 379 
 
 trumpets were blown, while we passed slowly through the line 
 of soldiers, saluting as we went. At the entrance of First 
 the hall my Somalis were drawn up on guard, and we of Eng^ 
 stepped forward into the closely-packed area, filled with "^^^.nga. 
 the great men of Uganda, who sat or stood against the walls to the 
 right and left. As soon as we had come inside the hall a man, 
 still young in years, and dressed in complete European costume, 
 rose from a seat at the far end of the room. His dark eyes 
 were fixed on us with a kindly look ; a dark beard surrounded 
 his face, which had quite an European cast. His nose and 
 mouth were regularly shaped ; the latter certainly was rather 
 large, but was remarkable for faultlessly white and beautiful 
 teeth. His whole appearance had in it something which was, 
 at the first glance, both agreeable and sympathetic. This was 
 Muanga, King of Uganda, known for a long time past in the 
 European press as the " bloodhound " Muanga. He nie king's 
 wore a coat, trousers, and waistcoat of black and white ^pv^^'^^^"^- 
 check, which gave him the look of a well-to-do European 
 gentleman in summer costume. 
 
 "Step this way," he said, in fluent Suahili (Karibu), ad- 
 vancing at the same time a few steps towa,rds us and pressing 
 our hands. " How are you ? Take a seat ! " pointing to two 
 chairs which had been placed for us at his right hand. 
 
 At this moment I was addressed in French by a gentleman 
 whom, at the first glance, I should not have taken to Father 
 be an European. He was dressed in a .long white ^<>^^^^^- 
 garment, and had a small red cap on his head. 
 
 " Je suis le pere Lourdel, et je vous ai envoye des lettres." 
 
 This, then, was the Superiorof the Catholic Mission in Uganda. 
 He told me at once that he had only come over from Bulingogwe 
 on the previous night, and that they had all, for the moment, esta- 
 blished themselves, in a makeshift way for the time being, round 
 Mengo. Immediately upon this, two more Europeans appeared 
 in the doorway, and greeted us in the English language. ^^ ^^^^^^ 
 These were Messrs. Gordon and Walker. During the and M^r. 
 formal ceremony of this reception, I witnessed the 
 spectacle of my old friend Kamanyiro Kanta crawling on all 
 
380 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 a 
 
 fours to greet the king, according to the ancient Waganda 
 custom ; his majesty, however, received the homage with extra- 
 ordinary coldness and indifference. 
 
 " I rejoice, Muanga, to behold the Kabaka of Uganda," were 
 the words with which I opened our conversation. " I have 
 Address to joumejed from the east up the Tana, past Mount 
 the king, ggj^ja, and have had to fight with the Gallas, the 
 Massais, and many others, and learned in Usoga that Emin Pasha, 
 to whom I was marching, had gone away with Stanley, and that 
 you were in need of help from Europeans. Therefore I have come 
 across the Nile and marched hither through your territory." 
 
 " I have heard that you have beaten the Massais, and I know 
 that the Germans understand war and are all soldiers. I wel- 
 come you. I am glad that Germans especially should come to 
 visit my country. Now tell me of your combats with the 
 Massais." 
 
 " The Massais are very savage," I said, " and are no friends 
 to the white men. They dared to make attacks on my expe- 
 Dr. Peters's ditiou, but we beat them back four times, killed a 
 explanation, gj-g^t number of them, burnt many of their villages, 
 and drove off plenty of their herds." 
 
 Muanga laughed, well pleased at this description. 
 
 " The white men are not generally liked in the east of your 
 land," I continued. " In Kawirondo, also, we were obliged to 
 beat the Mangati." 
 
 " That too we have heard about here," answered Muanga. 
 " Where have you your artillery ? " 
 
 " I have left my artillery behind with the Gallas. Perhaps 
 a second column of my expedition will march after me here, and 
 if so I hope they will bring my artillery with them ; if they do 
 I will make you a present of it." 
 
 " I thank you much," he said. " I hope you will stay here 
 with me, and wait for the second column. Anything that you 
 Muanga's ^^'i^ti to have in my country shall be yours ; only make 
 fnendiiness.jjj^Q^jj yQ^j. ^ig^gg^ g-ud Send direct to me when there 
 is anything you wish to have. I intend to have a large house 
 built for you close to my own." 
 
CONVERSATION WITH FATHER LOURDEL. 381 
 
 " I cannot stay long with you, because I must go onward to 
 the German colony on the other side of the lake. If you choose 
 to send any message by me to the coast, and I can be in any 
 way of service to you, it shall likewise be done." 
 
 " I should like to send a message by you to the coast, but 
 we will not speak of that to-day." 
 
 Everything that Muanga said gave us the impression of 
 quiet, modest frankness, and when we parted from him at the 
 close of our half-hour's interview we carried away with us the 
 most favourable impression. We had imagined him to be a very 
 different man. Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker accompanied us to 
 our tent, where, unfortunately, I could regale them with nothing 
 better than tea and coffee. Directly afterwards Mons. Lourdel 
 appeared, who stayed on after the Englishmen had gone away. 
 He soon turned the conversation on the state of affairs pgre Lour- 
 in Uganda, and gave me details of the English proposals, ^®^'° ^*®*°' 
 which, he said, had afterwards come to nothing, since Mr. 
 Jackson not only never came himself, but would not even send 
 powder and ammunition." I asked him, — 
 
 " Does the king wish for any kind of European Protectorate 
 at all ? " 
 
 " Certainly not. Even during the time of his banishment 
 from Uganda, we were only able, after much persuasion, to get 
 him to enter upon any negotiation of the kind." 
 
 "Well, then, he should address himself to the European 
 Powers, with the request that they would constitute his land 
 neutral ground, exactly as has been done in the case ^^ p^jgrg's 
 of the Congo State. If we could get the Upper Nile advice to 
 
 1j}i6 kin? 
 
 neutralised, all the European Powers would be equally 
 benefited thereby. Only Muanga would certainly then be 
 obliged to make up his mind to adopt throughout his territory 
 certain universally recognised principles of international law." 
 
 " Do you think that such a proposal on Muanga's part would 
 find favour in Europe ? " 
 
 " That I am unable to say. You know that I am sent out 
 by a private German committee to the relief of Emin Pasha, to 
 whom I thought of making a similar proposition. I have no 
 
382 ^TEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA. 
 
 kind of commission for Uganda from my committee ; I have 
 Offer to 110 official Commission from Germany at all ; but if 
 posais^to*' Muanga is prepared to make proposals of the kind to 
 Europe. the European Powers, I shall be very willing, for my 
 part, to take charge of them and deliver them there. First of 
 all, however, Muanga would have to accept the articles of the 
 Congo Act for his own territory, and to furnish guarantees to 
 the Powers that the slave trade and the exportation of slaves 
 shall be suppressed in his own country." 
 
 " The king will be very ready to do that, for he hates the 
 Arabs, and, moreover, cannot witness with satisfaction the 
 dragging away of his subjects. Before we brought him back 
 from Usukuma to Uganda, we often held conversations with him 
 on this subject. In the meantime we should have to reckon 
 with the intrigues of the English in carrying out such plans." 
 
 " I cannot understand what interest England can have in 
 proclaiming a Protectorate just here in Uganda." 
 
 " England wants the monopoly of trade." 
 
 " Such a thing is not possible on the face of it, since Uganda 
 lies within the zone of land in which free trade is established by 
 the Congo Act. A Protectorate without a monopoly of the kind 
 would only be an expense to the English. If Muanga were to 
 Conflicting offer to US Germans the Protectorate of Uganda, and I 
 interests, .^^gj-g ^sked my opinion about it in Germany, I do not 
 know whether I should not decidedly advise the rejection of the 
 offer. England is in exactly the same position." 
 
 Thus I came to an agreement with Mons. Lourdel as to the 
 plan of our task on the very first morning. 
 
 In the afternoon, Herr von Tiedemann and myself were 
 invited to dine at the English station. It was situated to the 
 north of the capital, and was naturally of a very primitive 
 description, as all the former buildings had been destroyed in 
 the insurrection ; but the sensation of being once more the 
 guests of Europeans had in it, to our thinking, something 
 extremely delightful. 
 
 After the dinner Muanga 's minister, who bears the title 
 Katikiro, made his appearance, to hold some conversation with 
 
DESIGNS FOR THE FUTURE. 383- 
 
 me on business. This personage was, like all the higher officials 
 in Uganda, still quite a young man, with a very ener- visit of the 
 getic and crafty cast of features, which did not make ^^^■^'^°- 
 an altogether pleasant impression. He asked quite openly, — 
 
 " What presents do you intend to make the king ? " 
 
 "I will give him from one hundred to one hundred and 
 twenty pounds of fine gunpowder, a Lancaster repeating rifle 
 with fifty cartridges, a thousand percussion caps, and a number 
 of small things besides, such as soaps, etc." 
 
 " And how long do you think of staying here ? We are 
 hoping for a visit of at least three to four months. Karema has 
 posted himself in the north, and may at any moment attack the 
 capital. So long as you are with us, this will scarcely happen, 
 for he has already retreated northward on the advance of your 
 expedition. Then, too, the fugitives from our Christian parties, 
 will be coming back to Uganda, from all directions, and our 
 position will be materially improved thereby." 
 
 " I regret that I cannot stay here from three to four montha 
 under any circumstances. I have no commission of any kind 
 to tarry here in Uganda ; every day my expedition costs Q^^ggti^^ 
 50 marks {£2 10s.) in wages for my people. I am of length of 
 prepared " — (here I began to make a calculation) — " to 
 remain here until March 16th ; to-day is February 26th, — that 
 makes three weeks." 
 
 " This is not the 26th, but the 25th of February," said the 
 English missionaries. 
 
 "Excuse me," I said, opening my diary, "to-day is the 
 26th of February." 
 
 " Well, we make this the 25th of February," said both of 
 them. 
 
 It turned out afterwards that by some oversight we had 
 really got a day in advance in our calculations, and that the 
 Englishmen were right. I have, nevertheless, always kept to 
 our own reckoning in my previous account, because we were no 
 longer able to verify on which day the disarrangement of dates 
 had occurred. 
 
 "Be that as it may, we will fix March 16th, once for 
 
384 NEW LIGH't ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 all, as the day of my departure from Uganda. I have not 
 enough ammunition to be able to propose to the king that I 
 should attack and beat Karema and the Wanjoro in the north. 
 If Karema, on the other hand, should advance towards the 
 south, I should be prepared to support Muanga with my whole 
 expedition, and, if he wished it, I would take the com- 
 
 Heoessity r ' ' 
 
 for disci- mand of his people. If I am to do that, however, I 
 ^"'*' must request that I shall be allowed to drill the 
 soldiers, and, above all, the officers of his troops, every day from 
 this time forward, so that they may become accustomed to our 
 method of fighting." 
 
 After a long consultation, Katikiro declared himself satisfied 
 with this agreement, which, to a certain extent, was concluded 
 under the guarantee of the English mission, and which after- 
 wards was accepted likewise by Muanga and the Roman Catholic 
 party. By March 16th, I was confidently assured, the boats 
 should be on the spot, to transport me over Lake Victoria to 
 Usukuma. 
 
 On the following day there was another solemn reception 
 held by Muanga, when I presented him with the gifts I 
 Second ^^^ brought. Muauga was exceedingly pleased, for 
 audience of the hundred pounds of powder enabled him to provide 
 five hundred of his soldiers once more with ammu- 
 nition for a fight, a thing that under existing circumstances 
 might be of the greatest importance to the maintenance of 
 his throne. 
 
 In the afternoon Herr von Tiedemann and I, dressed in 
 
 uniform, paid a visit to the Catholic mission. Here we were 
 
 introduced to Father Denoit by our acquaintance of the previous 
 
 day. Father Lourdel. While Father Lourdel was an 
 
 Visit to •' ' 
 
 the French extremely energetic-looking man, with strong features, 
 we beheld in Father Denoit, who may have been about 
 thirty years of age, a figure that recalled St. John, with a mild, 
 gentle face, with dark beard, the eyes of an enthusiast, and a 
 very sensitively-formed mouth. Both of them belonged to the 
 Algerian Mission, the so-called " White Brothers," and Father 
 Lourdel had been already labouring for ten years in Uganda. 
 
THE CATHOLIC illSSIONS ON LAKE VICTORIA. 385 
 
 On my asking if he did not feel a longing to go back once 
 again to his home in France, he replied, — " We have come here 
 to die ; we shall never return to our country." 
 
 He could have had no foreboding at that time how soon 
 these words of his were to be fulfilled. He was accustomed to 
 say also, " Si nous sommes en bonne sante nous ne voulons 
 pas, et si nous sommes malades nous ne pouvons pas retourner " 
 ("If we are well in health we will not, if we are ill we cannot 
 return"). 
 
 I expressed to him my admiration of the courageous self- 
 sacrifice shown by his Order. In the years during which that 
 Order had laboured by the lake it had lost fifty per cent, of 
 its brethren by sickness. I said to Father Lourdel, — 
 
 " People talk so much of us travellers, of Emin Pasha, 
 Stanley, and others ; what you are doing here is in . 
 reality much more heroic, and you do it exclusively for kmds of 
 your great Ideal. Your names are scarcely mentioned 
 by us in Europe ; and the ambition which urges others on never 
 enters into your calculations." 
 
 " We expect to receive our reward after death, if the Lord 
 wills it so." 
 
 I have learned to know the work of this Catholic mission, 
 everywhere round about the lake, in Uganda, on the Sesse 
 Islands, and Usukuma, and I must express my sincere admira- 
 tion for the achievements of these men. For the very reason 
 that they have taken on themselves the vows of poverty, 
 obedience, and chastity, because they may not possess ihorough- 
 any property of their own, nor ever look forward to cathoUo 
 returning permanently to their homes, they have ™""°"s- 
 a double interest in making their stations as comfortable as 
 possible ; and as they receive very little assistance from 
 Europe, they are compelled to develop, to the utmost of their 
 power, the natural advantages of the country. As the Protes- 
 tant missionaries on Lake Victoria really work there only 
 temporarily for salaries, and since they have before them the 
 desire of returning, sooner or later, to England, and after that 
 of finding some little provision awaiting them in London, they 
 
 '2r, 
 
386 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 are themselves less identified with the mission, they do not 
 take root in the land in the same way, and consequently cannot 
 be of so much use to the country. What I have seen of the 
 English missions shows them to be behind the French ones 
 in every particular. The Catholics have everywhere large 
 and convenient houses, covered by far -projecting roofs, with 
 pillared verandahs, which enable the inhabitants to protect 
 themselves from the heat of the sun, and to take bodily exer- 
 cise even in rainy weather. At these mission stations I found, 
 everywhere I went, gardens, in which not only tropical vege- 
 tables, but all kinds of European vegetables were grown. 
 
 While the English missionaries were obliged to live 
 means of just as the uatives do as to food, the Roman Catholics 
 
 enjoyed European potatoes, bread and butter, cheese, 
 which they made themselves, brandy manufactured from burnt 
 bananas, colerabi, turnips, greens of all kinds, pineapples, oranges, 
 and other fruits for dessert. While the English lived in badly- 
 built houses, every Roman Catholic Father or Brother had his 
 own cool whitewashed room, and they assembled for their meals 
 in a pleasant refectory. As they cannot obtain any European 
 labour in the country, and yet wish to establish theinselves 
 comfortably there, they are obliged, as indeed they are en- 
 joined to do by the rules of their Order, to use all possible care 
 Mechanical ^° training their people to work. If they want to have 
 ingenuity tables, chairs, kitchen utensils, they must get them 
 
 developed. ', , '. ., , / / , „ 
 
 made by their pupils, and they have, therefore, a 
 particular interest in teaching the people to make these articles 
 properly. Hence again the system of freres, or brothers,, 
 serving for this purpose, is also especially practical, one or 
 more of them are attached to each station. A settlement of 
 industrious and skilled workmen is formed in this way by 
 means of the Catholic mission, which consequently exerts a 
 most beneficial influence upon its surroundings, and upon the 
 whole land. 
 
 It is true that on February 27th there was not much to 
 be seen of the Catholic station in Uganda. It had been 
 destroyed by the Arab faction, and only the foundation walls 
 
PRTVATE INTEBVIEW WfTIT KIXG MUAMrA. 387 
 
 were left standing. Mons. Lourdol, like all the rest, had been 
 obliged to domicile himself in a makeshift lasliion, and 
 received me in a hall surrounded by a fence. Here we Mers 
 partook of tea, to which Monseigneur Lourdel con- ^'''"'"■ 
 tributed a tin of sardines in oil, a rare treat for us, and one 
 which recalled memories of our distant home. 
 
 From the Catholic Mission we returned, under the convoy 
 of Mons. Lourdel, to King Muanga. I was desirous, as soon as 
 
 A Missionary at the Plough. 
 
 possible, to convert the arrangements which I had drawn up the 
 day before, in concert with Lourdel, into accomplished facts, 
 and for that purpose I had asked for a private interview with 
 the King of Uganda. We found Muanga, attended by only a 
 few of his followers, sitting in a room of one of his houses, 
 which sprang up like mushrooms in daily increasing numbers. 
 Access is gained to the interior of the palace through a ^. „ 
 
 ~ _ J ~ _ King Mu- 
 
 perfect labyrinth of courts, passages, and gateways, in anga's 
 which it is customary to station the soldiers of ^^ ^'^' 
 Uganda by day and night. Close by are buildings erected for 
 
388 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the king's women and for Ms other court attendants. The 
 whole place produced upon me an impression such as I always 
 associated in imagination with the court of Attila in Hungary. 
 All the buildings are of unplaned wood, but their spaciousness, 
 and the great number of the rooms, give them an appearance of 
 grandeur and suitability. 
 
 When we entered Muanga's presence, he, at my request, 
 dismissed all his servants, and, without my asking him, he sent 
 Private iuto the adjoining rooms to see if there were any 
 wit-hth7 persons there who might overhear our conversation, 
 ^■^g' P^re Lourdel then whispered my proposal in the ears of 
 Muanga, whereupon Muanga took hold of Lourdel by the ear 
 that he might in turn whisper his reply. The result of this 
 somewhat singular interview was Muanga's declaration : — 
 
 " If the Doctor will carry my message to Europe, I am willing 
 to make a treaty with him, in which I resign, in favour of the 
 Germans and the other Europeans, the right of the Mfalme that 
 the people of Uganda may only travel, carry on trade, and 
 build houses by his permission. I am also prepared to sell my 
 Muanga's ivory to noue but the German Company, if they will 
 declaration. gypp][y jj^g jj^ exchange with powder and ammunition. 
 I will be the servant of no European. They shall all have 
 ■equal rights in my country, but I prefer to conclude friendship 
 with the great Sultan of the Germans alone. If the Doctor will 
 •draw up a treaty to this effect, I will sign it, and I will see that 
 all my chiefs put their names to it too." 
 
 This was exactly what I was aiming at. If I succeeded in 
 binding the King of Uganda to such promises, I believed that I 
 .should do great service to the whole European cause. 
 
 Everyone who reads the accounts of travel in Uganda 
 knows what restrictions on their freedom of movement are 
 encountered by Europeans in this country. Felkin and Stanley, 
 Emin Pasha and Juncker, have all experienced this. If the king 
 accepted the principles of the Congo Act, the country would for 
 the first time be really thrown open to European traffic. And 
 that must be to the common advantage of all the nations who 
 have any interests on the coast territory. 
 
TREATY WITH KING MUANGA. 389 
 
 I immediately repaired to my tent with Mons. Lourdel, and 
 proposed to him the following draft of the treaty, which, with a 
 few alterations in the style, susreested by Lourdel, has 
 been retained. I he treaty was drawn up m French, in a treaty 
 the language of Kiganda and in Kiswahili, and it was p'^'p*'^^*- 
 afterwards signed in all three languages. I have inserted it in 
 the appendix in the French and Kiganda text ; and I subjoin 
 here a verbatim translation : — 
 
 "Mengo, Feb. 28th, 1890. 
 
 " Between King Muanga, Kabaka of Buganda, and Dr. Carl 
 Peters, the following preliminary treaty has been agreed 
 upon : — 
 
 " The King Muanga accepts the decrees of the Berlin Treaty 
 (Congo Act) of February 1885, so far as they have reference 
 to Buganda and its tributary countries. He throws open these 
 countries to the subjects of His Majesty the German Emperor 
 as to all other Europeans. He guarantees to the subjects of His 
 Majesty the German Emperor, as to all other Europeans who 
 may wish to avail themselves of it, entire freedom of trade, and 
 the right of travel and settlement in Buganda and all tributary 
 states. 
 
 " King Muanga enters into friendship with His Majesty the 
 German Emperor, and receives for his subjects per- Articles 
 mission to trade, with the right of free passage and of pga^'nja 
 settlement in all the territories of His Majesty the treaty. 
 German Emperor. 
 
 " Dr. Carl Peters undertakes to propose the ratification of this 
 preliminary treaty to the German government. 
 
 " This treaty is drawn up in Kiganda, Kiswahili, and French. 
 In case of any disputed interpretation, the French text alone 
 shall be considered as binding." 
 
 On the following day, February •28th, we finished the three 
 drafts of this treaty ; and on March 1st I went again to 
 Muanga with Mons. Lourdel, and was received by the king in 
 his cabinet council. He had with him his two ministers, 
 Cyprian, the minister of his household, called Kanta, the real 
 
390 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 minister of state, Katikiro, with a few other great men. I laid 
 Interview before them the principal heads of the treaty, explaining 
 •with the ^Q them that since Uganda had become Christian, 
 
 ministers ^ -it 
 
 of state, and the Christian party was here in the .ascendant, 
 it was necessary to frame the treaty in its general particulars 
 according to European principles. 
 
 " The European powers," I continued, " in a treaty which 
 was concluded in Berlin in 1885, have come to an agreement 
 concerning certain general principles of law respecting Africa. 
 I wish to see these accepted also by the Waganda, and I have 
 accordingly drawn up the following treaty," which I then caused 
 to be read aloud in the Kiganda language. " I now call upon 
 you to sign it." 
 
 The king and Cyprian Kanta signed immediately, after 
 Muanga had declared that he wished to enter into the same 
 Signing of relation to the European powers as that in which the 
 the treaty, g^^^an of Zanzibar stood towards them. 
 
 The Katikiro, the leader ■ of the English party in Uganda, 
 
 refused to affix his signature, saying that he wished 
 
 Katikiro's first to talk over the affair with Messrs. Gordon and 
 
 refusal. --.y ,, 
 
 Walker. 
 
 This brought the whole matter to its second stage. The 
 refusal of Katikiro had now made a conflict necessary, to bring 
 the treaty to a full recognition by the government of Uganda. 
 
 I was the more determined to carry the matter through, 
 when in Uganda the great importance of these countries from a 
 political and commercial point of view became abundantly clear 
 to me. Ivory comes pouring in, to Uganda, in the form of 
 tribute, and as an article of trade to be exchanged for food and 
 other things, from all the states to the north and west of Lake 
 im ortaut ^i^toria, as far as the Albert Nyanza, to be despatched 
 trade of from Uganda across Lake Victoria to Tabora and the 
 coast. A good part of the trade of Uganda, which cannot 
 indeed be calculated, but which anyone who understands African 
 aff"airs may estimate from the fact that from sixty to eighty 
 Arabs have settled in this country, has to do with the customs 
 levied along the coast by the German trading company. The 
 
TRAFFIC ON THE VICTORIA NYANZA. 391 
 
 same thing is shown by the quantities of European weapons, of 
 ammunition, stuifs, manufactured ivory, and other articles to be 
 found in Uganda. For all these articles have come, in the last 
 place, from the coast and from Zanzibar, to be sold in exchange 
 for ivory. The Arabs in Uganda cultivated the closest relations 
 with their co-religionists in Tabora, and carried on, as „ 
 
 o ' ' Prooeed- 
 
 factors, the exchange of goods between that place and ings of the 
 Uganda, and indeed beyond Uganda to the north. As 
 I was able to ascertain, gunpowder was carried to Unjoro by 
 means of the Kimbulus in Busiba (Karague), and, as I was told 
 in Uganda, even to the Mahdi himself. The whole traffic, 
 therefore, of the Victoria Nyanza lies in the Tabora trade ; and 
 all great commercial and political disturbances in Uganda must 
 accordingly make themselves felt immediately in the traffic and 
 barter on the coast, and also in the revenue drawn from the 
 customs of Bagamoyo and Dar-es-Salam. The Uganda ivory 
 filters through a thousand channels, apart from the direct expor- 
 tation of the pm'chased goods across the lake to the south. It 
 is the great medium of exchange for these regions, and passes 
 perhaps through six, seven, or even more hands before it reaches 
 Tabora or Irangi, where the Arabs have likewise settled ; and 
 arriving at the coast, is absorbed into the commerce of the 
 world. This internal trade is engaged in, among others, by the 
 inhabitants of the island of Bukerebe, whose carvans of traders I 
 have seen myself both in Busiba and also in Usukuma. They 
 pay with fish and articles of iron, which they, on their side, 
 exchange again in Usukuma. I think that in estimat- j^po^tant 
 ing the political and commercial affairs of East Africa ^^^^^^^t'' 
 too little stress is laid on this internal trade among the 
 tribes. In it lies the chief investment of the slave trade. But 
 there is another series of products, which have, as it seems, 
 been exchanged for centuries between tribe and tribe. Thus 
 Usukuma supplies hoes and iron goods to the tribes as far as 
 Usoga. We sometimes met caravans coming from the south- 
 east, as we were marching through the steppes. When I asked 
 them, " Where to ? " they answered, " We are going to 
 Usukuma." " What do you want there ? " " We want to buy 
 
392 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 hoes " (yembe). In this way it is that the barter trade of 
 Uganda along the coast defies all direct calculation. It can 
 probably be ascertained only in Uganda itself. But the facts 
 -which I have mentioned above leave no doubt of its importance 
 as a whole. 
 
 As Uganda is entirely shut off from any approach from the 
 east, the promotion of traffic in Uganda, which I had most urgently 
 pressed upon Muanga, would in the first place be of the greatest 
 advantage to traders from the German territory, but would in 
 the end be of service to every nation that desired to enter 
 Arbitrary iuto any Undertaking in these countries, — among others 
 by the*'°"° especially to Mr. Stokes, whose agents I had met in 
 idngs. various places round the lake, and to the English 
 missionaries, who after the ratification of this treaty were 
 preserved from the fate which had often befallen them before, 
 namely, from being forbidden by the king, for months at a 
 time, to leave their houses, even to take a walk, which had 
 happened to Messrs. Gordon and Walker ; or from being sud- 
 denly banished from the kingdom, as Mr. Mackay had been ; 
 and from many similar restrictions of personal freedom. 
 
 I was therefore the more surprised when Mr. Gordon and 
 Mr. Walker, who dined with me on the evening of March lOth, 
 
 ob'ections ^^^^ ^^ ^^^* ^^^^ must dispute Muanga's right of 
 of Gordon entering into negotiations with a third power, since he 
 
 and Walker c^ o r ' ^ 
 
 had already placed himself under British protection. 
 On the other hand, this objection certainly gave me a welcome 
 opportunity of formally and definitely bringing the affair to 
 a conclusion. 
 
 I therefore wrote, putting a formal question to King 
 Muanga. The English had told me, I said, that he was de- 
 jjj, pg^g^j.g pendent upon the British East Africa Company, and 
 letter to had uo longer the right to conclude treaties with any 
 
 other persons. Before I could proceed further in the 
 affair, I must first know how this matter stood, as I had no 
 intention of carrying an invalid treaty back to Europe. I must 
 beg that not only Muanga, but also the great men of the 
 country, would declare whether they were dependent (watuma— 
 
DR. PEIERS'S SPEECH IN THE COUNCIL. 393 
 
 slaves) on the English, or ^Yhether the king had still the same 
 right as that enjoyed by Mtesa. 
 
 Meanwhile, on March 2nd, the treaty was signed in the 
 house of Mons. Lourdel, and afterwards in my tent, by all the 
 great men and governors of provinces of the Catholic Great as- 
 party, who formed the majority in the country. On ceSdnytte 
 the morning of March 3rd Muanga assembled a state ^^^^^■y- 
 council, to which were invited all the great men of the land, and 
 also the princesses of the house of Wakintu, as many of them, 
 namely, as had escaped the murderous hands of Karema. I was 
 the last man to arrive. The two Englishmen did not know 
 what was the business on hand. Muanga first disposed of a 
 number of less important matters of state, appointments of 
 governors, and so on. Then I rose, and spoke to the following 
 eifect : — 
 
 " I have come hither, at your request, to help you against 
 the Arabs. I have become Muanga's friend and yours. We are 
 all Christians ; we all know the words of Jesus and love them ; 
 the white men and the Waganda are quite the same. It is 
 necessary, therefore, that the Waganda should acknowledge the 
 same things to be right towards us white men, which we in our 
 countries acknowledge to be right towards them. When people 
 from Uganda wish to come to Germany, they could travel, and 
 live, and carry on their trade wherever they choose ; and they 
 can do the same if they go to France or to England. I demand 
 that you Waganda should grant the same right to us Europeans ; 
 not to us Germans only, but to all Europeans, to whatever 
 nation they may belong. Muanga has declared himself fuu free- 
 
 .,,. •' . •' , . , 1 ■ 11 ti/tj. I- J- dom of resi- 
 
 wilhng to give up the right claimed by Mtesa, or tor- aenee for 
 bidding the white men to travel or trade in Uganda,'"^"' "'''• 
 or of banishing them out of the country whenever he likes. 
 He has concluded a treaty with me to this effect. In this 
 treaty he asks for the friendship of the great Emperor of the 
 Germans. Now the Englishmen who are sitting here by me 
 come to me and say, Muanga and the Waganda have no longer 
 any right at all to make such treaties; they say that the 
 Waganda have become the slaves of the English. Therefore 
 
394 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I ask the question of you Waganda — Have the Englishmen 
 spoken what is the truth ? Then I will tear up the treaty. 
 Or have they spoken what is not the truth ? Then declare it 
 now openly." 
 
 These words called forth such a storm of indignation against 
 the Englishmen from the whole assembly of the 
 
 Excitement 5^, ^„ _„ ,., inii 
 
 in the Waganda that I feared for a moment it would lead 
 assembly. ^^ ^^^^ ^^ violence. Then Muanga sprang up from his 
 throne and said, addressing himself particularly to Messrs. 
 Gordon and Walker, — 
 
 " You have heard what Dottore Patasi has said. Now tell me 
 yourselves whether his words are true ; whether you really did 
 go to him and tell him what he has stated, or not." 
 
 A little taken aback, Mr. Gordon now explained that 
 certainly the king had accepted the flag of the British East 
 African Company, and that that was the same thing 
 don's ex- as accepting the British Protectorate. Such, at least, 
 p ana ion. ^^^ their interpretation of it, and that was what 
 they had told me. 
 
 To this Muanga made answer, — 
 
 " You all know that when we were on the island of Lake 
 Victoria, we sent messengers both to Stanley and to Mr. Jackson, 
 Mnan a's ^^y^^S' '^ome and help us, and we will accept the English 
 plain flag, and grant to the English a monopoly of trade in 
 speec . Ugaiicia.' The Englishman alone was to be allowed to 
 trade in Uganda. Bring me back upon Mtesa's throne, and it 
 shall be as I have written. What happened then ? Stanley, 
 who came from Unjoro with Amdallemin, refused to listen to 
 the entreaties of his Christian brothers, and made a wide circuit 
 round Uganda. Mr. Jackson, who had been staying with many 
 soldiers for a long time in Kawirondo, not only did not come 
 himself to our assistance, but .did not send a single cartridge or 
 a handful of gunpowder to help us ; and now the Englishmen 
 say that because Mr. Jackson sent me his flag in a parcel I must 
 consider myself to be under British protection. The only people 
 who have come to our aid are the Doctor and the Germans 
 (Badutschi). If I placed my land under any one's protection, 
 
OFFER OF ASSISTANCE AGAINST KIMBULU. 395 
 
 it would be under that of the great Emperor of the Germans. 
 But I will remain like Mtesa, I will belong to no one. They 
 shall all be welcome in Uganda. If the Germans desire to 
 •come, let them come ; if the French wish to come, let common 
 them come ; if the English wish to come (and you can Ilf e^/o-'' 
 write this to Mr. Jackson), and wish to have the same p^^°'' 
 right as the Germans, they shall be equally welcome. But if 
 they wish to ' eat up ' my land, I will make war upon them, for 
 we Waganda will be free, and I will remain what Mtesa was." 
 
 This speech was received with what in Europe we should 
 call "enthusiastic applause," in which the whole assembly 
 joined, with the exception of a few leaders of the English 
 party. 
 
 Every one sprang up and pressed forward to shake Muanga 
 by the hand. 
 
 I then rose for the second time. 
 
 " I have heard your words, King ! and I see that you and 
 jour chiefs are agreed, and I know that you and all your chiefs 
 will sign the treaty. Hear now what I intend to do to show 
 jou that 1 am really the friend of the Waganda. I hear, 
 Muanga, that to the west of Lake Victoria there are still Dr. Peters 
 ■enemies, allies of Karema, who refuse to pay you the figh^t°°^^ 
 tribute which they owe. I am told that, in Busiba par- ^imbuiu. 
 ticularly, there is Kimbulu, who gets gunpowder from Unyan- 
 jembe for your enemies in Unjoro. If you want to make war 
 in the north, you must first of all have the whole south in your 
 power. I am ready to help you to do this. Give me some 
 boats and a few men, and I will force the people of Busiba to 
 acknowledge you, Muanga, as their lord, to pay you tribute, and 
 banish Kimbulu out of the countl-y. In this way I think to 
 secure for you a safe communication with our German colony 
 •and with your friends the Christians on the coast." 
 
 The king laughed aloud for joy when I had ended my 
 speech, and the other Waganda, including Gabriel, the com- 
 mander of the Waganda troops, came up to thank me for my 
 offer. Then Muanga rose once more and repeated, " that all 
 may know it," — 
 
396 KEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " I am the son of Mtesa, and what Mtesa was in Uganda 
 that will I also continue to be, and against every one who will 
 not have it so I will make war." 
 
 He then turned round suddenly and disappeared 
 assembly through a door at the back of the hall into his private 
 dismissed. a^pg^j.|.jQg^j-g^ thus putting an end to the sitting. 
 
 Upon this the stream of people, led by M. Lourdel, rushed 
 
 to the house of the Katikiro, the leader of the English party. 
 
 I preferred to take no part in this assembly, by which 
 
 Katikiro's Katikiro was to be forced to add his signature, and I 
 
 °^^^' withdrew to my tent. The crowd meanwhile demanded 
 
 of Katikiro that he should either sign the treaty or resign. 
 
 In the afternoon Messrs. Gordon and Walker came to me 
 and informed me that the deputation had very nearly come to 
 blows, and that the temper of the people had been inflamed 
 to such a degree that they feared the evening might witness 
 a general butchery. 
 
 " Show us the treaty," they said ; " we will read it, and then 
 decide what we ought to do." 
 
 They then at once read the text, and it was Mr. Walker who 
 said to Gordon, " I really think we should get our people to 
 sign to the affair." 
 I answered, — 
 
 " You must know best what attitude you ought to take up. 
 I attach no importance to the signature of the chiefs, because 
 Expiana- the king's name legally binds Uganda with regard to 
 other states. Moreover, in case of any collision 
 between the two parties, which I should extremely 
 deplore, and which I am resolved to endeavour to prevent, I 
 offer you a refuge in my camp. For my own part, I shall give 
 orders to fire on whichever party fires the first shot." 
 
 I then wrote at once the following letter for Mons. Lourdel : — 
 
 " Mengo Rubaga, Mars Uh, 1890, 
 " BiEN CHEE Monsieur, — J'apprends que les deux parties 
 chretiennes vont faire guerre entre elles-m6mes. 
 
 " Je crois que ceci sera la fin de la dyHastie, par ce qu'il 
 
 tion to tlie 
 mission- 
 aries. 
 
DR. PETERS'8 LETTER TO MONS. LOURDEL. 397 
 
 enforcerait k FAngleterre la necessite d'une occupation, et je suis 
 sur que vous ferez tout ce qu'est dans votre puis- Letter to 
 sance pour pacifier les coeurs de nos hommes et ™- ^''°'^**'- 
 emp^cher des actes de violence. 
 
 " J'expecte avec beaucoup d'interet la reponse du roi sur ma 
 proposition. 
 
 " Veuillez agreer, mon cher monsieur, les sentiments les plus 
 respectueux de votre serviteur 
 
 " Carl Petees," 
 
 (TRANSLATION.) 
 
 " Mengo Rubaga, March ith, 1890. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — I am informed that the two Christian factions 
 are on the point of commencing hostilities against each other. 
 
 " I think that this would be the end of the dynasty, because 
 it would force upon England the necessity of an occupation. I 
 am convinced that you will do all in your power to tranquillise 
 the minds of your people and to prevent any outbreak of 
 violence. 
 
 " I await with much interest the answer of the king to my 
 proposal. 
 
 " I am, dear Sir, 
 
 " Respectfully and faithfully yours, 
 
 " Carl Peters." 
 
 On the evening of this day, all the great men of the English 
 party, with the Katikiro at their head, came and signed the 
 treaty. On the other hand, I received a reassuring communica- 
 tion from M. Lourdel, to the effect that they, the missionaries, 
 were there to do the works of peace, and not of war, and that it 
 was a matter of course that they would make every effort in 
 their power to secure peace ; which indeed was not in any way 
 threatened, as no one meditated resorting to acts of violence. 
 
 The conclusion of my letter referred to a proposal which I 
 had laid before the king on March 3rd, in which I urged him to 
 
398 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 place his admiral, the Djumba, at my disposal, in order to 
 get together as many boats as possible among the Sesse 
 Boats re- Islands, for the projected expedition to the west of 
 thf expedi- the lake. To give this affair more importance, I 
 tion. wished to send Herr von Tiedemann also to Sesse, 
 where he would find safe quarters with Monseigneur Livinhac 
 in the French mission station. 
 
 At the same time I drew up a short report, to the German 
 general consulate in Zanzibar, of the proceedings in Uganda, 
 and the treaty which I had concluded, and despatched it direct 
 to Usukuma, by a boat which the king had given me for the 
 purpose. My own sentiments during this time are shown in a 
 letter addressed to Dr. Arendt, written at the same time, and 
 sent with the report across Lake Victoria : — 
 
 "RuBAGA IN Uganda, March 7th, 1890. 
 
 "Dear Arendt, — You will, I daresay, have received the 
 
 telegraphic communication that my expedition had penetrated 
 
 to the boundaries of Emin Pasha's territory, when I received 
 
 the information of his departure iust in time to be able 
 
 Letter to i n i tt j 
 
 Herr to tum to the south-west and march to Uganda. 
 Arendt. g^^ictly Speaking, I had perfectly fulfilled my mission 
 in Wachore's capital, for, as Emin Pasha could testify, there was 
 no longer any difficulty in advancing from thence to Fauvera, 
 where Emin once had a station. At this present time I am 
 not very far away from Mwutan-Nzige, and could betake myself 
 thither at any moment if Emin Pasha were still there, instead 
 of the Mahdi and the rebels of the Equatorial Province. Emin 
 Pasha, or Stanley, or Dr. Felkin, or indeed any one acquainted 
 with the affairs of these localities would be able to confirm this 
 statement for me. In any other country I could do without 
 such a confirmation, since I myself know better than anyone 
 else with what tension of nerve this result was attained. In 
 Germany, I am anxious to have some such certificate to prove 
 that I have accomplished my task like an honest man. 
 
 " Without assuming to tell you anything new, I may also 
 
DR. PETERS'S LETTER TO DR. ARENDT. 399 
 
 make the following statement. Three times during my expedi- 
 tion the English have crossed my path ; and each time, opposition 
 under very various circumstances, I have been for- overcome, 
 tunate enough to hold my own against them. The first time 
 they wanted to close the way to Witu against me, and after- 
 wards to prevent my advance from that place to the Tana. I 
 have put an end to English influence in Oda-Boru-Ruva, and set 
 up the German influence in its place. Then, according to Mr. 
 de Winton's prophecy, I was to find an English expedition at 
 Baringo. The English expeditions were obliged to turn back 
 in the steppes of the Upper Tana, through which I made my 
 way, and the German flag now waves over Baringo. Lastly, the 
 English had already sent their flag to Uganda, and everything 
 was ripe for the British protectorate. The English flag is now 
 withdrawn from this place, and the king, Muanga, has recently 
 solemnly withdrawn from English protection, or rather from his 
 consent to it, and I am bringing back with me a treaty of 
 commerce and peace. 
 
 "I have had occasion, in carrying out this expedition, to 
 fight, one after another, the Wagalla, Wandorobbo, Wadsagga, 
 Wakikuju, Massai, Wakamasia, Waelgejo, and Mangati tribes. 
 None of these tribes have been able to check my Advan- 
 advance, and they have all learnt to fear the German thf Ger°- 
 flag. I have attained this result with fifteen Askaris "^'^ *^^- 
 and about fifty bearers ; and with articles of barter collected in 
 Lamu from the refuse of the stock of the encampment, which 
 had been described to us as probably sufficient for the march 
 between Tana and Oda-Boru-Ruva. Such, my dear Arendt, is 
 the German Emin Pasha Expedition, from the Bay of Kwaihu 
 to the capital of Uganda :— Tana, and Baringo, and the Nile ! 
 
 " The most important achievement of the expedition is un- 
 doubtedly the affair of Uganda. It was 1884 over again, but 
 in a grander style. ... I tell you these things, my dear 
 Arendt, not from any feeling of boastfulness, but because I 
 desire to make my standpoint clear in the sight of all men. For 
 I cannot tell>hether I shall return, having now undertaken the 
 task of clearing the west of Lake Victoria of the Arabs, and if 
 
400 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 my cartridges hold out I intend afterwards marching on Unjan- 
 jembe, to observe for myself the position of Tippoo Tib. 
 
 " An effort has been made to hinder me from taking any share 
 in my old work ; and Fate has given me its revenge in truly 
 grand fashion. If I fall, it shall not be in faint-hearted fashion, 
 but proudly, and the German flag which I have carried thus 
 far shall be spread over me for a pall. I have always been 
 anxious, in my own way, to raise it to honour. That I have 
 differed from the majority of my countrymen in my idea of the 
 manner in which this was to be effected has been not the most 
 unimportant reason of the hatred and vituperation which I have 
 encountered in Germany. But I love the black, white, and red 
 flag none the less passionately on that account, and for the rest 
 a good deal of the blame is my own. . . . 
 
 " Uganda, a splendid country, is at present trodden down by 
 
 war. . . . 
 
 " With kindest regards, 
 
 " Yours, 
 
 " Gael Petebs. 
 
 " PosTSCKiPT, March 8th. — A former servant of Emin Pasha's 
 is just now sitting by my side. I have to-day succeeded in 
 gaining from Muanga the prohibition of the export of slaves 
 from his country. — C. P." 
 
 I sent to the Englishmen in Kawirondo a copy of the treaty 
 in French, accompanied by the following letter : — 
 
 " Dr. Peters begs to enclose the above copy to the gentlemen 
 of the B. E. A. A. Expedition, with the information that King 
 Expiana- Muanga yesterday, at a public meeting, at which the 
 toThe*"^"^ gentlemen of the English Mission attended, has declared 
 English, himself free from any engagements which the B. E. A. A. 
 may claim upon his letters addressed to Mr. Jackson, as the 
 conditions, he thinks, have not been fulfilled which he made 
 his terms under the protection of the abovesaid Company. 
 
 " Dr. Carl Peters leaves this entirely to be settled between 
 the two parties, and thinks that his treaty does not injure the 
 rights of any European nation." 
 
PLEASANT QUARTERS IN UGANDA. 401 
 
 On March 6th I received the king's decision concerning my 
 proposal of collecting boats at the Sesse Islands. Muanga 
 declared himself willing to send his admiral thither, and to 
 allow Herr von Tiedemann to travel in the same boat to the 
 French Mission. I accordingly at once gave instructions to 
 Herr von Tiedemann to hold himself in readiness to start on 
 the following morning. The Djumba, however, did not appear 
 at the time appointed, and Herr von Tiedemann had to defer 
 his departure until the following day. 
 
 On the morning of March 8th he betook himself, with his 
 personal attendants, to the shore of Lake Victoria, 
 opposite to the island of Bulingogwe, and already on of Herr von 
 the day afterwards I received the information that he ^^''^"°'*""' 
 passed the night in Bulingogwe, and expected to arrive in 
 Sesse in three days. 
 
 I myself removed on March 8th, together with all my 
 people, to a charming country house which the king had given 
 me. It stood in a banana grove on the eastern slope of Rubaja 
 hill. The house consisted of three large rooms, built of cane 
 reeds after the Indian fashion. The kitchens and ser- , , 
 
 J ... ... A pleasant 
 
 vants offices were established m the adjoining houses, camping. 
 As is usual among the Waganda, the courtyard con- ^"" 
 sisted of a number of squares, with partitions of twisted reeds. 
 The houses for my column stood at the entrance of these court- 
 yards, so that I had all my men around me, and yet was 
 completely private and undisturbed. From the flagstaff by 
 the principal gateway waved the great German flag. I may 
 mention in passing that I had four sentries on duty day and 
 night in Uganda, round our camp, according to my principle 
 of considering a surprise, from whatever quarter it might come, 
 as a downright disgrace to myself. 
 
 On March 9th I had the great pleasure of making the 
 acquaintance of Monseigneur Livinhae, who had come jj„„ggj 
 over from the Sesse Islands to visit the newly-esta- neur Livin- 
 
 . hac 
 
 blished Catholic Mission. Monseigneur Livinhae, like 
 so many of his brethren in these countries, is a strikingly hand- 
 some and dignified-looking man, with a magnificent long black 
 
 26 
 
402 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 beard. A crucifix, set with brilliants, hangs down over his 
 white cassock. I found him to be a ver)' cultivated man, of 
 great delicacy of feeling, and entu-ely free from prejudice ; full 
 of enthusiasm for the cause he served, and possessing a clear- 
 sighted intelligence as to the great changes which are taking 
 place, at the present time, in African affairs. 
 
 I had the pleasure of seeing him for the first time on 
 March 8th. On Sunday, March 9th, we dined together at the 
 Catholic Mission ; the crown of the feast was a bottle of 
 Algerian wine, brought by Monseigneur Livinhac, — a rare treat, 
 which, together with the animated conversation, put us in a 
 frame of mind that was almost European. 
 
 During the following days, I began to take in hand another 
 great question of principle with respect to Uganda. If 
 Muanga and his party wished to participate in the 
 and the European and Christian system, it was absolutely 
 'necessary that he should take his stand, on prmciple, 
 on the anti-slavery movement. Chiefly on account of the 
 great beauty of the women of Beyma, Uganda had formerly 
 been one of the greatest centres of the slave trade. Between 
 March 9th and 16th Monseigneur Lourdel and I succeeded in 
 obtaining from the king the following solemn declaration, which 
 brought the whole matter to a conclusion : — ■ 
 
 " Moi, Muanga, roi du Bouganda, j'afRrme, en presence de 
 Monsieur le docteur Carl Peters, et du R. P. Simeon Lourdel, 
 Muanga's que j'interdis la traite des esclaves dans le Bouganda, 
 cerning""' and les pays qui en dependent ; and que je ferai tout 
 slavery, j^qj^ possible pour empecher I'exportation des esclaves 
 de tous les pays qui me sont soumis. 
 
 " Muanga, Kabaka du Bouganda. 
 
 " Simeon Lourdel, de miss. d'Algers, Superieur 
 de la Mission Catholique. 
 
 " Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 " Mengo, le 16 Mars, 1890." 
 
 This decree was issued at the same time in the Kiganda 
 
2[r^AX(rA PLEDGES HIMSELE TO REFORMS. 
 
 402 
 
 language, in which it was announced to the chief men of the 
 country, at a solemn public assembl}". 
 
 To bring out more clearly the Christian sentiments which 
 underlay this decree, I induced the king, in a formal memorial 
 addressed to the signatories of the Congo Act, to request the 
 
 *'" '*^jj|^ife 
 
 MONSEIGNEUR LiVINHAC. 
 
 neutralisation of Uganda and the territory ot the Upper Nile in 
 the spirit of the Congo Act, and to pledge himself to make 
 Christianity the one dominant religion in all his dominions. 
 The king appointed me his plenipotentiary for the negotiations 
 concerning this matter, in case I should consider, on my return 
 to Europe, that there was any prospect of their leading to a 
 
404 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 practical result. The Christian religion was, moreover, for- 
 prospectsofmally proclaimed as the religion of the state, by the 
 thesupre- decree that all government appointments should be 
 
 macy of " / ^ t i 1 1 
 
 christi- filled by Christians only, and that, accordingly, all 
 ^'"'^^' heathens who refused to be converted to it must 
 resign their appointments. This decree was carried out in 
 Uganda to the fullest extent, and it was in this way that my 
 The queen's old friend Kamauyiro Kanta lost his province. The 
 Ifficiair queen-mother, Mtesa's widow, who had herself remained 
 dismissed. ^ heathen, was obliged, although I was on very good 
 terms with her, to dismiss all her court officials who adhered to 
 the old belief, and to surround herself with a retinue of Chris- 
 tians, a proceeding which was anything but agreeable to her. 
 Mohammedanism, as such, was simply forbidden, under penalty 
 ■of death. Heathenism was tolerated, but Christianity alone was 
 in every respect to be the dominant religion. 
 
 I co-operated very zealously in all these matters, because I 
 •considered that these measures were suited in every respect to 
 the existing condition of affairs in the north of Lake Victoria. 
 Mohammedanism received its deathblow by the prohibition of 
 the slave trade. It had to be forbidden in Uganda because it 
 aimed openly at the extermination of Christianity ; and if it 
 were in any degree tolerated it could have easily gained the 
 ascendency, supported as it was by the neighbourhood of the 
 great Mohammedan powers in the north. Heathenism, from a 
 political point of view, might be tolerated, if only its followers 
 were prevented from holding any positions of influence in the 
 country. To give them such positions would be dangerous, 
 jTeoessity because in the old heathen religion a supernatural 
 0^ Mm a - ygjjeration was paid to the dynasty itself, and it was 
 heathenism. ^jjgj-gfQj-g ^q ^g assumed that although Muanga went 
 with the Catholic party, there yet existed in that ruler a strong 
 attachment to his former religion, which might easily become 
 dangerous to the development of Christianity, unless the latter 
 held in its hands the control of every department of the state. 
 If heathenism were dealt with everywhere as we dealt with it 
 in Uganda, it Mould hold something like the position which it 
 
.-1 CULTIVABLE AND IJIPROVABLE LAND. 405 
 
 occupied about the middle period of the Roman Emperors, and 
 there is no doubt that it would very soon fall to pieces. 
 
 In order to deal a blow at Karema's party, I tried to induce 
 the king to set a price of fifty frasilas of ivory upon his head, 
 and to grant to all his -followers, if they would abjure 
 Mohammedanism, an amnesty and permission to return Lourders 
 to Uganda. I did not, however, pursue this idea, owing "p""""- 
 to the representations of Mons. Lourdel, who said that in the 
 utter absence of all truthfulness here no one would believe either 
 that the price promised for the head of Karema would be paid, 
 or that the amnesty would be observed, and that therefore an 
 announcement of this nature would be unpractical. I certainly 
 had not thought of that. 
 
 But in spite of all this, I had during these few weeks in 
 Uganda the great satisfaction of being able to observe the rapid 
 advance of the country in prosperity. In the north of Mengo, 
 the daily market had been re-opened under lofty trees ; and 
 every day saw fresh crowds of Christian fugitives from every 
 quarter streaming back to their home. Houses and villages 
 sprang up on every hill, almost like blossoms after a 
 spring rain. The fine broad roads, which had become of the 
 overgrown with grass, were soon cleansed again, and "''"'' ^^' 
 presented the trim appearance which is peculiar to all these 
 settlements. Digging and planting went on everywhere ; and 
 as, strangely enough, our entrance into the country had been 
 accompanied by a return of the rain, every place seemed to 
 burst out at once into verdure and bloom. The members of 
 both confessions betook themselves at once to building places 
 of worship. The symbol and the blessing of the cross were to 
 be seen everywhere. 
 
 This was to me the greatest satisfaction that I could possibly 
 have received, for 'all the dangers and anxieties of the journey. 
 Whenever I showed myself in public, which I always did with a 
 certain display of ceremonial, men and women crowded round 
 me rejoicing, to salute me, and thank me for the help I had 
 brought them. I felt deeply moved during these hours and 
 days, when I reflected what might be made of this country, so 
 
406 .V/:Tr LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 highly favoured by God, if it continued in the paths of industry 
 under European influence, as it had shown itself happily 
 disposed to do during these weeks of my stay. 
 
 As I was so entirely isolated, and generally lived alone, I 
 Acquaint- had leisure enough, after my political labours, which 
 the cJ^nuy never took up more than a few hours of each day, 
 and people, ^q gtudy the couutry and the people, and to become 
 acquainted with their manners and customs. 
 
 I could not, of course, arrive at any definite conclusion 
 in these respects ; but for the very reason that I saw Uganda 
 under such peculiar circumstances, my observations may be 
 found not entirely devoid of interest. 
 
 If nations may be divided into two classes, those which are 
 destined to rule and those which are compelled to obey, the 
 Waganda belong unquestionably to the former class. Proud 
 even to passionate vindictiveness, brave and courageous even 
 to cruelty, they have within themselves that instinctive feeling 
 of their superiority over others which is the natural and in- 
 dispensable condition of sovereignty. It is not very long 
 since the King of Uganda looked upon himself as the first 
 „ ., , monarch of the world, and looked down with an equal 
 
 Pride and ' '- 
 
 ignorance contempt upou white men and Arabs. Mtesa was un- 
 sophisticated enough to ask for the hand of a daughter 
 of the Queen of England in marriage, and thought he was 
 conferring a great deal of honour in so doing. The English 
 missionaries prudently kept back in Usumbiro the document 
 containing this proposal. But the individual Waganda also, how- 
 ever submissive he may be at home to the despotism of his 
 Mfalme, understands perfectly well how to command when he 
 is abroad. I had several opportunities of remarking this, both 
 in Usoga and on my journey round Lake Victoria. There was 
 with me as guide 8tephano, a young servant of the Katikiro's, 
 and I was delighted to see with what authority this man, who 
 behaved like a slave towards me, ordered about hundreds of 
 rowers from Wausu, and how he, standing alone, gave his com- 
 mands to men of the western tribes. This gift of authority is, 
 as it were, in the blood of the Waganda, and this superiority is 
 
SUPERIORITY OF TEE WAG AND A NATION. 407 
 
 nowhere denied. " Oderint dum metuant " is most assuredly 
 the only practical motto for Africa, and seems indeed to be the 
 accepted principle of the continent in the treatment of other 
 people. 
 
 In the development of their intelligence, the Waganda un- 
 doubtedly excel every other African nation. The missionaries 
 have assured me of the fact, and I had occasion my- 
 self to remark with what quickness they caught up ties of the 
 and assimilated ideas. In contrast to all other negro ^*sanda. 
 tribes, the Waganda feels the necessity of progress. Christianity 
 has spread among this people with amazing rapidity, when once 
 the superiority of the white race was understood ; and in its 
 train have come the arts of reading and writing. The mis- 
 sionaries of both confessions agree in their descriptions of the 
 eagerness with which the Waganda presses forward to be taught. 
 How utterly different from the morally and mentally degraded 
 Uwangwana on the coast, or the stupid Usukuma and Mjammesi. 
 In the Waganda there is fire, appreciativeness, and intelligence, 
 and without question this tribe has a future before it. 
 
 It is true that these advantages are accompanied by a 
 number of faults. I never saw the simple impudence of which 
 Emin Pasha complains. " Other times, other manners ; " and 
 it certainly makes a difference whether you come to Mtesa as 
 a private individual, or to Muanga at the head of an Eespeot 
 efficient military expedition ! On the whole, with ^y resoiu- 
 Christianity there has come a greater respect for th^ *^°"^- 
 white race which introduced it. The superiority of the white 
 man, as I said before, has become clear to the Waganda, and 
 they are eager to learn from us as much as possible. But their 
 desire to hold a certain rank leads them to despise common 
 unskilled labour, and, since they must live, they have re- 
 course to begging or stealing. In a country where private 
 property is entirely at the mercy of the ruler's caprice, the 
 chief spur to honest solid acquisition is wanting, and the 
 dangerous blessing afforded by the perennial banana, which, 
 without demanding any cultivation to speak of, bestows every- 
 thing necessary for the support of life, has naturally intensified 
 
408 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the general inclination to idleness. These fortunate people 
 
 only need to build houses, for which the reeds of the country 
 
 supply a convenient material, and to weave their cloth- 
 Life easy m ^^ •' T 1 1 f i • -IJ £ 
 
 waganda- ing stuffs, mbugo, froHi the bark ot a certain wild hg- 
 ^^''^' tree ; the rest of their time can then be wasted merrily 
 in a doles far niente. The unripe banana, when dried, yields 
 the finest white flour I have ever seen. I prefer the ugali (or 
 broth) made with banana flour even to that made with wheat 
 flour. Or again, the green banana may be roasted, and yields 
 a dish not unlike potatoes baked in their skins ; while one 
 . . variety of banana, when ripe, is boiled in the skin, and 
 
 Capacities •' ^ ■ i • i 
 
 oftheba- when it is afterwards peeled it makes a preserve which 
 has exactly the taste of our stewed pears. For dessert 
 a capital dish is afforded by the ripe banana, peeled, cut in 
 half, and baked in a pan with butter and sugar ; prepared in 
 this way it is certainly quite equal to our European dish of 
 apple cake or tart. There are other ways of cooking bananas, 
 not to speak of the various effervescing drinks which are ob- 
 tained from this fruit, from the light muenge (tamo tamo), 
 which resembles champagne, to the heavy intoxicating varieties 
 of pombe ! Truly, the gods could not have bestowed a more 
 valuable gift on the countries on the northern shore of Lake 
 Victoria than its vast banana groves, which afford an easy and 
 pleasant means of subsistence to millions of people. But, as is 
 said to be the case in the South Sea Islands, this gift of the too 
 easy provision of the necessaries of life is attended with dangers 
 not always overcome, even by the restless energy of this race. 
 The traveller in Uganda must look well after his goods and 
 chattels, especially at night, and will do well to harden himself 
 against the begging of high and low. Unless he does this, he 
 will not carry much away with him from this country. 
 
 The form of salutation among the Waganda is lively and 
 cheery. When two acquaintances meet, one of them says, as he 
 Customs of grasps the other's hand, " Otiano." "Eh," replies the 
 civility, other, in a grunting tone ; and now arises an interchange 
 of complimentary grunts— "eA," "eh," "eh," "eh," "eh," "eh," 
 varied with an occasional "otiano" the voice in diminuendo 
 
CUSTOMS;— THE NATIONAL DRUM. 409' 
 
 tones. The method of giving thanks is by falling flat on one's 
 stomach, and holding the two hands palm to palm, waving 
 them in a slanting direction through the air, uttering over and 
 over again — " Niansig, nianzig, nianzig." 
 
 As might be expected from the lively, sanguine temperament 
 of the people, a love of music is strongly developed among 
 them. 
 
 Stanley translates Uganda as meaning " The Land of 
 Drums." I have vainly sought to discover any justification for 
 such a translation. On the contrary, Uganda means in Kiganda 
 the brother, and Uganda should therefore be translated the 
 " Brotherland," analogous to our German word " Fatherland." 
 But if Stanley's interpretation be etymologically incorrect, it 
 can certainly be justified practically, for Uganda is indisputably 
 a land of drums in the fullest sense of the expression. Drum- 
 ming goes on there day and night, from one end of the land to 
 the other. The hilly country, with its surrounding heights and 
 its echoing valleys, to a certain extent invites this proceeding. 
 Indeed, from the heights of Mengo or Rubaga the country 
 may be governed by means of signals given by beat of drum, 
 certainly for a circuit of five miles around. This is fully taken 
 advantage of at the royal court. Muanga has a whole house- 
 ful of the most various kinds of drums. By means of these 
 the greatest variety of signals can be given, which are im- 
 mediately understood by all the country round. Often ^^ ^^ 
 when Gabriel, the head of the army, was with me, he ganda 
 would suddenly get up and say : " The gates are bemg 
 closed," or " The king wants to see me," or " The Askaris are 
 ordered to dance," or something of the sort. And when I 
 asked him, " How do you know that ? " he would answer, smil- 
 ing, " Ngoma '" (" Drum "). The drum used in war is especially 
 effective, even to a European ear. Three drums, tuned in 
 fifths, are beaten in a peculiar roll, which has a solemn, 
 dignified, and at the same time menacing effect. 
 
 Next to the drum the various kinds of flute are very plenti- 
 ful in Uganda, both reed and wooden flutes of all kinds and 
 sizes. An orchestra of flutes in Uganda is extremely comic. 
 
410 
 
 y/:]]' Ljnnr on dark afrka. 
 
 ilUSICAL 
 THE 
 
 Muauo-a 
 
 Six or more gentlemen, with 
 portentously solemn expression 
 of conntenance, but Avithoiit the 
 slightest pretension to tune or 
 time, pla}' against each other, 
 every one choosing his own 
 air, and endeavouring with all 
 his might to play down all 
 the others. It seems that the 
 different flutes belonging to a 
 waganda band of this kind are 
 flutes. tuned according to 
 some kind of method, for instru- 
 ments of various pitch, some 
 higher and some lower, were 
 always to be recognised ; but the 
 general effect produced was a sort 
 of " charivari," that made us in- 
 voluntarily raise our hands to our 
 ears. Besides this, the Waganda have 
 stringed instnunents, horns, and even 
 
 very full-sounding specimen in King 
 s collection of instrmnents. Together with these 
 
MUSIC AND ARCHITECTURE IN WAGANDA. 411 
 
 instruments the singer makes his appearance. He recites to the 
 accompaniment of a drum, beaten by himself. He appears to be 
 performing love-songs, or songs in praise of the Msungu, or of 
 some of the chiefs who are present. While singing the love- 
 songs he smiles significantly, or accompanies his chant with a 
 rhythmical dancing movement, without, however, moving from 
 his place. The Waganda also sing in chorus, not unmelodiously ; 
 sometimes rather plaintively, sometimes with a wild and shrill 
 sound. You never quite lose the feeling that they have picked 
 up a fragment of a tune, like parrots, but that they do not know 
 how to put the different parts together, so as to blend them into 
 a real and complete melody. It is always a beginning, but 
 never comes to any completion, as if they were trying Musical 
 to utter something they wanted to say, and could never „{ "^^r'*^*' 
 find the right expression for it. However, my visit to waganda. 
 Uganda was at too serious a time to allow me to form a proper 
 opinion as to the joyousness and love of singing inherent in 
 these people. There was dearth in the land, and war stood on 
 the threshold. Such a time is not very favourable for singing 
 and dancing merrily. But still the population streamed back 
 into the land, day by day, in ever increasing-numbers. Every- 
 where building was going on, fields were being tilled, and on 
 the whole T was able to gain, I think, a very fair idea of this 
 side of the national character. 
 
 The houses of the Waganda chiefs are very tastefully built ; 
 they are generally neatly made, entirely of reeds, in something 
 resembling the Indian style of architecture. 
 
 My house at Rubaga, into which, as I have already men- 
 tioned, I moved in the second week of my stay, presented at the 
 front and at the back two semi-circular halls, in which I esta- 
 blished myself very comfortably. The centre was occupied by a 
 large, partially-darkened room, which was approached ^^^^^^^ 
 from a third side by a door which could be locked, architeo- 
 
 ,. , . T ture. 
 
 The trim little house was enclosed by a square ot bigti 
 fences made of matting, above which only the lofty trees of the 
 banana grove appear, near which the house was situated. The 
 courtyard was again divided, by similar fences of matting, mto 
 
412 ^^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 diifereiit parts, one of which contained the house used as our 
 kitchen. Three doors on three sides led from the outer fence 
 into tlie open countrj'. Before one of these doors, at about ten 
 or fifteen paces distant, lay the houses for the slaves, in which I 
 quartered the Askaris and the bearers. I had installed my own 
 servants and the kitchen in the separate parts of the courtyard, 
 so that I had all my people at hand, and yet was entirely alone 
 and undisturbed. It is certainly the pleasantest style of build- 
 ing that can be imagined for these countries. As the court- 
 yards are paved with hard-trodden clay, the most scrupulous 
 cleanliness can be maintained throughout. 
 
 The houses of the slaves and of the poor consist, like those 
 of the Bantu, of huts shaped like haycocks, and entered by a 
 door with locks or fastenings, and supported inside by a peculiar 
 arrangement of pillars. The Waganda are extraordinarily skil- 
 skiifui ful in house building. Give them three or four days, 
 builders. ^^^^ whole villages appear where before there had been 
 a desert. In Mengo not only reception halls of colossal dimen- 
 sions arose, as it were, out of nothing, in the course of a single 
 week, but also hundreds of houses for the guards, drummers, 
 and slaves of the king. 
 
 Besides this aptitude for building, the Waganda, as Emin 
 Pasha has observed, have a great turn for blacksmith's work. 
 At Rubaga there is a smithy of this description, which I 
 visited' The men were working there almost exclusively with 
 European tools, and, in my opinion, with almost European skill. 
 I had occasion myself to have several guns repaired here, and 
 among other things it was necessary, at one time, to replace in 
 one of the magazine guns a lost part of the machinery, by 
 which the cartridges were rapidly thrown out after the weapon 
 had been discharged. In every case the work was done in a 
 neat, Avorkmanlike manner. This particular trade is still held in 
 honour in this place. The owner of the forge had lately been 
 appointed one of the chiefs of the land. The Waganda im- 
 port their iron either from Unjoro or from Usogora, on the west 
 of the lake, or in the shape of iron wire from the coast. No 
 minerals of any kind are obtained in Uganda itself. 
 
PROSPECTfi OF UGANDA TN THE FUTURE. 
 
 4K 
 
 The facts 1 havi' thus brouglit forward show that in all pro- 
 bability we have before ns, in this lively ami hearty jieople, a 
 
 Household Uteksils of the Wacjanda. 
 
 rising race, whicli has a future before it in the development ol 
 Central Africa. They pass their lives in their own mountnin land, 
 
414 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 mth its vallej's and heights, like the Thuringians, loving song 
 and merriment. But here are imprinted, more deepl}' than in 
 Cruelty of the German race, the dark featm-es of bloody revenge 
 the people. g^jj(j j^putal Cruelty. In Uganda we are within the 
 limits of the dark despotism of Central Africa. The stranger 
 marvels at the number of human beings he encounters who 
 have lost one eye, or both ears, or their noses, or lips ; but the 
 missionaries have stories to tell of much worse things. Every- 
 thing in the whole of this country belongs to the ruler alone. 
 He issues his command, and the people at once bring him their 
 cattle, daughters, and wives. He commands, and hundreds of 
 his subjects are dragged off to the place of execution, and there 
 put to death with fearful tortures. The limbs of the victims 
 are hacked oif one by one, roasted before the very eyes of the 
 unfortunate sufferers, who are then forced to eat their own 
 flesh. The mutilated trunk is then slowly roasted, and every- 
 thing is done to prolong the agony as much as possible. This 
 is what Mohammedans and Christians have had to live among 
 here, and only recently, with the introduction of Christianity, 
 has the state of things taken a turn for the better. And 
 yet this country is both in climate and scenery cheerful and 
 beautiful, so that one wonders how, under these skies, such 
 bestial cruelty can have established itself. 
 
 According to Father Lourdel, the thermometer in Uganda, 
 even in the hottest season, which is in February, never rises. 
 
 Climatic ^^°^^ ^^° ^- (^^° Fahr.) in the shade ; while in the 
 advantages coldest period, July, it sinks to 13° C. (55° Fahr.) 
 gan a. ^^ ^^^ night. Strange to say, Uganda belongs, in 
 its seasonable periods, to the southern hemisphere, while 
 geographically it is in the northern. Moreover, there is 
 not such a sharp division into a dry and a wet season as. 
 in other tropical countries, although the precipitation of rain 
 is greater than usual between the months of March and May.. 
 It rains irregularly at all times of the year, owing to the 
 Tropical influence of the lake, and the embraces of sky and 
 tempests, ^^^^j^ ^^^^ ^iere of an extraordinarily fiery character- 
 Nowhere have I met with such numerous storms of thunder 
 
WAGANDA CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 415 
 
 and lightning, or of so violent a kind, as in Uganda. During 
 a storm one can almost say that the space of time between the 
 flashes is shorter than the time covered by the flash itself ; it 
 flickers continually like a gas flame in an autumn wind. It 
 is accompanied by short rolls of thunder. Even when we had 
 not thunder-storms just overhead, the horizon in one direction, 
 generally to the north, was in flames every night in March. 
 But the earth here shows herself grateful enough for the blessed 
 rain of heaven. Everything blossoms and flourishes, and I am 
 convinced, as are the missionaries, that the land here is able 
 to bring forth, without exception, every product of the tropical 
 and temperate zones. I will only mention the excellent 
 Uganda cofifee, which we drank regularly, and which anrproLo- 
 grows wild here. Herr von Tiedemann bought fifty *^^^''^='- 
 pounds of it for, I believe, four arm-lengths of stuff" ; I find no 
 difference between this and Mocha coffee. Besides this I must 
 mention tobacco, and sugar-cane, manioc, red sorghum, peas,, 
 beans, batatas, etc. At the Roman Catholic mission station 
 every kind of European vegetable is grown. The country is 
 also extremely healthy, no missionary having died here before 
 Mons. Lourdel, and for lung diseases Uganda is probably as 
 much to be recommended as Madeira. 
 
 And now, whence come the inhabitants of this land ? 
 Whence have they their peculiar characteristics and their 
 superiority in culture over the other Bantu races P ^ . . 
 for that they are of Bantu stock there is no question, the 
 as the construction of their language proves it ; but *^*° *' 
 among this original population a second element has been 
 introduced, which came from the north. Emin and Felkin 
 call these people from the north Wahuma (inhabitants of the 
 north), and I found in Uganda the probably identical name 
 Beyma in use. In Usukuma the Massais are called Wahuma, 
 and this word is identical with Wasukuma itself, which signifies 
 nothing else than North-folk. These Beyma came long ago 
 from the far north, passed over the Nile, not far from Mruli,. 
 and conquered all the country to the north and west of the 
 lake. They founded here a great kingdom among the Wakintu,, 
 
416 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 from whose race springs the present dynasty of the Uganda 
 kings. Their kingdom extended as far as Mwuta Nzige, and 
 southwards to the north end of the Tanganyika ; and the 
 countries of Usoga, Uganda, Unjoro, Meru, Usagara, and Uhha, 
 in the south, all belonged to it. In Uhha the Beyma race still 
 exists, pure and unmixed. In the north they became absorbed 
 into the aboriginal population, or were sharply distinguished 
 from the general mixed race in the Beyma pastoral tribes. 
 
 These Beyma are still found in Uganda by hundreds of 
 thousands. They keep entirely to themselves, though their 
 The Bey- "^™Kien are everywhere sought for, on account of their 
 ma people, remarkable beauty, and through them the Beyma 
 blood is making its way everywhere. So far as I saw, the 
 Beyma were of a slender type, with dewy, dreamy eyes, and 
 features of almost a Caucasian cast ; their colour is light 
 brown, and their faces reminded me of the figures in an ancient 
 Egyptian temple. Felkin states that they were also called 
 Wawitu; an assertion that I was not able to verify. This name 
 would seem to point to a connection with the countries east 
 of the Samu. At present it is of the greatest importance to the 
 history of Central and North Africa to know whence come 
 the Beyma, and to what race they may belong. They' speak 
 Kiganda, but in an outlandish dialect. After a closer research, 
 however, I succeeded in proving the existence of a number 
 Com ari- ^^ '"'ords in their language, which are not Kiganda, 
 son of Ian- and SO may belong to the original language of the 
 
 guages. -pj -J- -. . -, (DO 
 
 Beyma. i here give these words, hoping that more 
 erudite men than myself will be able to draw conclusions from 
 them': — 
 
 nglish. 
 
 Suahili. 
 
 Kiganda. 
 
 Special Beyma. 
 
 clay 
 
 siku 
 
 naku 
 
 birro 
 
 God 
 
 mlmngu 
 
 katonda 
 
 Dubaga (or Eubaga, 
 like the former 
 capital of the Ugan- 
 da) 
 
 devil 
 
 slietani 
 
 Rubale 
 
 batwesi (rather, as it 
 seems, archangel) 
 
LANGUAGES OF EASTERN AFRICA. 
 
 417 
 
 English. 
 
 Suahili. 
 
 Kiganda. 
 
 Special Beyma. 
 
 star 
 
 tonda 
 
 ratonda 
 
 iguru 
 
 sheep 
 
 kondoo 
 
 diga 
 
 ntc\ma 
 
 rain 
 
 mwua 
 
 mkubd 
 
 njtirra 
 
 how are you ? 
 
 haligani 
 
 otiano 
 
 mirembejo 
 
 honey- 
 
 asali na njuki 
 
 nubiss 
 
 bugeme 
 
 peace 
 
 amani 
 
 kwegaisia 
 
 kwesengelessa 
 
 hair 
 
 uelle 
 
 mwiri 
 
 soke 
 
 father 
 
 baba 
 
 sebo 
 
 tata. 
 
 Any. one who wants to obtain an answer to this question 
 must also examine the words which are common to the Kiganda 
 and Beyma, but differ from the Suahili, for it is quite 
 possible that words have crept into the Kiganda and xigan- 
 language from the Beyma. I must leave these en- *^ *'*^^''*'' 
 quiries to experts, since of the Kibantu languages I only know 
 Suahili, and the tribes that differ from Suahili may simply be 
 the Uganda dialects of Kibantu. I will here give a few such 
 words, as specimens, which will perhaps repay examination: — 
 
 English. 
 
 Suahili. 
 
 Kiganda and Beyma. 
 
 ox 
 
 bird 
 
 wife 
 
 ngombe 
 
 ndege 
 
 manamke 
 
 nte, unte 
 
 njungu 
 
 mkasi 
 
 sultan 
 chUd 
 
 sultani 
 mtoto 
 
 kabaka (Beyma, mukama) 
 muana 
 
 night 
 soul 
 
 usiku 
 roho 
 
 kirro (comp. birro = day) 
 mtinsa 
 
 stick 
 fat 
 milk 
 war 
 
 fimbo 
 mafuta 
 masiva 
 mwita 
 
 mkoni (Beyma, mugo) 
 
 msigo 
 
 mdte (Beyma, matA) 
 
 baruana (Beyma, turuani) 
 
 I content myself with these specimens, because the enquirer 
 will doubtless find noted in Monseigneur Livinhac's grammar of 
 the Kiganda language other non-Suahili tribes in Kiganda. 
 
 Felkin is of opinion that the Beyma are of ancient Abyssinian 
 origin, and I should be inclined to believe that they belong to 
 the Somali of the "Wagalla race. They are unquestionably, like 
 the latter, an entirely pastoral population, and a few words of 
 
 27 
 
418 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 their language sound to me like some well-known Somali or 
 Wagalla words. Thus hirro, day, is in Kisomal heri, in Kigalla 
 boru, to-morrow morning. Njurra, rain, is in Kisomal gdrrah. 
 I leave this point undecided. I own that I await, with the 
 keenest interest, the answer which will be given, by an Oriental 
 scholar, to the question thus raised. 
 
 Meanwhile, I may be permitted to bring forward the reasons 
 Ancient re- which have led me to suppose that there has existed 
 lations with jj^^gj-gQ^Pgg jjj ygj-y ancient times, between the lake 
 
 civilised ' •' ..,..„ 
 
 countries, district, especially Uganda, and the civilisation oi 
 ancient Egypt. 
 
 1. It is a well-known fact that the ancients were acquainted 
 with the lakes of Central Africa. Aristotle, in his " Historia 
 Animalium," viii., 2, mentions in a brief and sober way, that 
 " the cranes migrate as far as the lakes beyond Egypt, where 
 the Nile has its source. There dwell the pigmies ; and this is 
 no fable, but the simple truth. Both men and horses, so says 
 report, are small size, and live in caves." 
 
 What seems to me remarkable in this passage is, that 
 Aristotle mentions the fact that the Nile has its source in the 
 lakes of the south country, not as anything new, but casually, as 
 something already known to his readers. The additional remark 
 " and this is no fable," etc., proves, moreover, that Aristotle had 
 his information about the nation of dwarfs from a source he con- 
 Ancient re- sidered trustworthy, probably from travellers ; and the 
 their teaoii- story has been shown in our own day by Schweinfurth 
 ^"58- to be perfectly well founded. Schweinfurth also recog- 
 nised the nation of the pigmies in the tribe of dwarfs of the 
 Akka, to the south of Manbuttu.* Now, it is of course possible 
 that such information may have arrived in Egypt at third or 
 fourth hand. However that may be, the passage at least proves 
 a certain intercourse. Eratosthenes also, about 200 B.C., speaks 
 of the Nile as issuing from lakes. 
 
 Ptolemy seems to have had more accurate information, for 
 on his map he indicates two Nile lakes (the Victoria and 
 
 * Accordingly, it was not Stanley who first discovered the dwarf tribes 
 of Central Africa. 
 
DOUBTS REGARDING THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON. 419 
 
 Albert Nyanza P), and marks down the Mountains of the Moon 
 to the south of the lake. These Mountains of the Moon, accord- 
 ingly, appear even before the Christian era, and are given in 
 somewhat uncertain form by every subsequent geographer. 
 Can it be doubted that these Mountains of the Moon point to a 
 knowledge of Unjamwesi ( Un land, ia form of the genitive, and 
 mwesi moon, thus making Land of the Moon), to the south of 
 the Victoria Nyanza, from which, as a matter of fact, issue the 
 last streams flowing from the Nile ? 
 
 Stanley thought, not long ago, that in the Ruwenzori he had 
 discovered the fabulous Mountains of the Moon ; but he gives no 
 reasons of any kind for his belief. He reprints the Stanley and 
 accounts of the Mountains of the Moon given by the tafnf of tie 
 ancients, but adds nothing to show why these accounts '^o""- 
 should be applied to the Ruwenzori ; while the ancient maps, 
 that he himself prints, flatly contradict his hypothesis, as they 
 one and all place the Mountains of the Moon to the south of 
 Lake Victoria. There is no great difficulty in selecting some 
 mountain or other, and saying, " Here are the Mountains of 
 the Moon ; '' and one man has pointed to this mountain, and 
 another to that. But the solution is evidently to be found much 
 nearer at hand ; and the fact of deriving the origin of the 
 name from Unjamwesi, the name of the country at the present 
 day, is supported above all by the places marked on the map by 
 the Greeks and Arabs. It is probable that Uganda traders learnt 
 that beyond the lake lay Unjamwesi, the Land of the Moon, and 
 brought this information back with them to Egypt. The deri- 
 vation of the name Unjamwesi itself is not quite clear ; the 
 mountains of Unjamwesi, seen from the east, are crescent- 
 shaped, and give something like the impression of the rising 
 moon. It may be that the name, Mountains of the Moon, may 
 be traced to this circumstance ; but that is not now to the point. 
 
 All that Stanley quotes from the reports of the ancients 
 ■concerning these Mountains of the Moon belongs entirely to the 
 realm of fable, and may just as well apply to any other moun- 
 tain range as to the Ruwenzori. The mountain described in 
 these accounts is called, not Ruwenzori, but Kumr, and there is 
 
420 
 
 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 mention of caves and great buildings within it. It is well 
 
 . . , known that Thomson discovered large rock-cut build- 
 Ancient . . , _ , ° 
 
 maps and ings both in Elgami and, in fact, in Elgon. It cannot, 
 
 of course, be proved that there is any reference to 
 
 these buildings in Elgami in the legends told of the mysterious 
 
 Unbekannt 
 
 Mondgehirrja 
 
 Cbntbal Africa, after Edeisi, 1154. 
 
 MITTELMEERa 
 
 Map of Sylvanus, 1511. 
 
 Map of John Euysch, 1508. 
 
 mountain Kumr ; but there is perhaps a clue better worth fol- 
 lowing up than that of the Ruwenzori, — which, by the way, was 
 discovered, not by Stanley, but by Casati. We cannot really be 
 induced to accept Ruwenzori as the Mountain of the Moon 
 simply because Stanley happened to march past it. If it is 
 
ANCIENT :\[APS AND CHARTS. 
 
 421 
 
 granted, however, that we are justified in finding, in the reports 
 of the ancients concerning the Mountain of the Moon, the proof 
 that they were acquainted with Unjamwesi, we shall also he 
 forced to conclude that their commercial intercourse extended 
 as far as to the Victoria 
 
 1 ,, ... MABE MEDITERRANEVM 
 
 Nyanza, and that either 
 travellers had penetrated 
 from Egypt to the lakes, or 
 from the lakes to Egypt. 
 The latter is the more im- 
 prohable, and therefore the 
 historical expert will pro- 
 nounce in favour of the 
 former conjecture. 
 
 2nd. The name for the 
 Nile is, in Uganda, Kyira, 
 or Kyila, the " r " and " 1 " 
 in the Kibantu language 
 heing the same sound. In 
 Usoga also I found that 
 the word for Nile was Nyiro 
 or Nyilo. This is the an- 
 cient name for the river. Accordingly, the Nile, at the present 
 day, bears at its source the same name which it bore thousands 
 
 MARB 
 PRA^SOHYM 
 
 Map of Sebastian Cabot (16th Cbntuet). 
 
 Map op the Mae&aeita Philosophica, 1503.* 
 
 of years ago at its mouth. This may be explained, since it is 
 highly improbable that it should have happened by chance, by 
 
 * In all the maps given above the Mountains of the Moon are marked at 
 about the spot of the present Unjamwesi. 
 
422 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the assumption either that people from the north travelled the 
 regions of its source, or vice versd, and that there must have 
 Theory been a time when men were acquainted with its identity 
 anoien?"^ at hoth cuds of the river. The force of this fact is in 
 relations. ^^ ^^y diminished by the circumstance that now im- 
 migrant tribes of later date, along the centre and upper course, 
 have given new names to the river. It is quite possible that 
 the old aboriginal inhabitants remained established only at the 
 source and at the mouth of the river, which, accordingly, here 
 retained the old name. This, again, can only be explained by 
 the supposition that communications existed in ancient times 
 between the territories at the mouth and those at the source of 
 the river. 
 
 3rd. There are at Mengo thirty-three royal tombs of the tribe 
 of the Wakintu.* In the most ancient of these are said to be 
 buried primeval records of the dynasty-. I was not only 
 tombs at informed of this by Muanga, but the missionaries con- 
 *"^°' firmed his statement. I tried to obtain permission to 
 have the records disinterred, but the superstition of the Waganda 
 is still so deeply rooted that Muanga, though in very courteous 
 words, refused my request. On the other hand, I received per- 
 mission to visit some of these tombs. Dr. Felkin tells me that 
 he has already seen the tombs, but he has not given- any descrip- 
 tion of them. I mention, first of all, that the number of tombs 
 being thirty-three does not prove beyond dispute that only thirty- 
 three generations of the Wakintu have ruled over Uganda. 
 From the statements of the Waganda it appears that the capital 
 of this dynasty was originally situated more in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Albert Nyanza. The name Kitarra, i.e., city of the 
 Wakintu, that remains to the present day in the north-west 
 of Uganda, seems to point to the conclusion that the race 
 originally ruled in that place. We cannot determine with 
 certainty the maximum, but only the minimum number of 
 ruling generations from the number of the thirty-three tombs. 
 
 * The title of the king, as has been before stated, is Kabaka, or Mfalme. 
 Might Mfalme perhaps be a Bantu modification of the Egyptian title 
 Pharaoh ? " L '' and " r " have the same sound in Kibantu. 
 
TOMBS OF DEPARTED DYNASTIES. 423 
 
 These tombs are arranged in the following manner : On 
 approaching them from a distance the traveller thinks he sees 
 pyramids before him, but in reality they are in the form of 
 large cones, and are built of wood in Uganda fashion. On 
 entering, the visitor finds himself in a dusky hall, supported by 
 a row of columns. In the background of this hall is a painted 
 curtain, before which are ranged the weapons and favourite 
 movables of the deceased. On putting aside the curtain a dark 
 area is entered, from which shafts and corridors have been 
 excavated in the ground. In these passages textile stuffs, cowrie 
 shells, and other articles of value, which in Uganda „ 
 represent money, are heaped up. At the farthest ex- in the 
 tremity of these passages is deposited the coffin, with ""^ °' 
 the embalmed corpse of the dead person. It appears that the 
 regular procedure for preserving the corpse is by drying it, 
 and swathing it tightly in wrappings ; but the Waganda also 
 told me that they understood the art of preserving the body 
 from decomposition by injections into the blood. In front 
 of the curtain twelve girls watch day and night on behalf 
 of the one last departed ; at present, therefore, for Mtesa. 
 From time to time all the great men of the land come to 
 the dead man, with drums and fifes, to pay him a visit, as if 
 he were alive. 
 
 What speculations may be founded on this.P Manifestly, 
 we have here to do with forms which are not met with, to my 
 knowledge, among any other Bantu tribe. How is it that just 
 the Waganda have this method of burying their dead ? I know 
 very well that customs of the kind exist also in Mada- Ancient 
 gascar, and that the old Aztecs had a similar practice of^Aztecs,^ 
 of sepulture ; but these two regions of culture are too ^*''- 
 far away to allow of the idea of any communication with them. 
 It is much more probable to suppose here an influence from the 
 north, from Egypt. Certainly this proof has nothing absolutely 
 striking about it, but in connection with what I have already 
 cited a certain probability for my conjectures will always be 
 manifest. 
 
 I have already mentioned that Thomson found great rock- 
 
424 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 cut buildings in Elgon, which, according to his description, 
 none but a civilised nation could have produced. The Elgon 
 rears its height in the north-east of Uganda. By whom could 
 Elgon rock such structures have been raised P Other relations 
 dwellings, j^a^y jjgj-e ije conjectured. Indians or Arabs might 
 have pressed forward from the east coast over the Baringo, 
 and have reared these buildings. The most probable conjec- 
 ture is, perhaps, here again that which points to Egyptians. 
 From an Arabian description of the Nile Stanley extracts 
 the following narrative, which is interesting, though it sounds 
 somewhat fabulous. (See "In Darkest Africa," vol. ii., 
 p. 282.) 
 
 " Historians relate that Adam bequeathed the Nile unto Seth, 
 his son, and it remained in the possession of these children of 
 prophecy and of religion, and they came down to Egypt (or 
 Cairo), and it was then called Lul ; so they came and dwelt 
 among the mountains. After them came a son, Kinaan, then 
 his son Mahaled, and then his son Yaoud, and then his son 
 Arab ac- Hamu, and his son Hermes — that is, Idrisi the prophet 
 Anc^ent^ (Enoch). Idrisi began to reduce the land to law 
 ^gypt- and order. The Nile used to come flowing down upon 
 them, and they would escape from it to the high mountains and 
 to elevated land until the river fell, then they would plant what- 
 ever country was left bare. Idrisi gathered the people of Egypt, 
 and went with them to the first stream of the Nile, and there 
 adjusted the levelling of the land and of the water by lowering 
 the high land and raising the low land, and other things accord- 
 ing to the science of astronomy and surveying. Idrisi was the 
 first person who spoke and wrote books upon these sciences. 
 He then went to the land of Abyssinia and Nubia, and gathered 
 the people, and extended the distance of the flow of the Nile, 
 or reduced it, according to the swiftness or sluggishness of the 
 stream. He even calculated the volume of the water and the 
 rate of the flow. He is the first man who regulated the flow of 
 the Nile to Egypt. It is said that in the days of Am Kaam, one 
 of the kings of Egypt, Idrisi was taken up to heaven, and he 
 prophesied the coming of the flood ; so he remained on the other 
 
THE CAVES OF EL GUMI. 425 
 
 side of the Equator, and there built a palace on the slopes of 
 Mount Gumr. He built it of copper, and made eighty-five 
 statues of copper, the waters of the Nile flowing out through the 
 mouths of these statues, and then flowing into a great lake, and 
 thence to Egypt." 
 
 " Idyar el Wall says : ' The length of the Nile is two months' 
 journey in Moslem territory, and four months' journey ^^ 
 in uninhabited country.' Its source is from Mount waii's 
 Oumr, beyond the Equator, and that it flows to the ^'""'™*- 
 light, coming out of the river of darkness, and flows by the 
 base of Mount Gumr." 
 
 "King Am Kaam, mentioned above, is Hermes I. The devils 
 carried him to this mountain, which is called Gumr, and there 
 he saw how the Nile flows out of the Black Sea and enters into 
 the Mountain of Gumr. King Am Kaam built, on the slopes 
 of the mountain, a palace, having eighty -five statues, to which 
 he collected all the water that flows from this mountain, con- 
 ducting it in vaulted conduits until the water reaches the 
 statues, and flows out of their mouths in measured quantities 
 and calculated cubic contents." 
 
 If these descriptions have reference to any real facts, would 
 one not naturally, at the sound of the name Gumr, be reminded 
 of El Gumi, in which the Elgon towers aloft with its Gumr and 
 unexplained and mysterious cave dwellings ? From "^""" 
 Mount Elgon the Nsoia pours itself into Lake Victoria, and on 
 in another direction, though at some distance from it, the Nile 
 flows past the slopes of the mountain. Could the imaginative 
 narrator have heard some confused rumours of magnificent 
 Egyptian undertakings in El Gumi, of which the caverns 
 discovered by Thomson are to the present day dumb but 
 eloquent witnesses ? In explanation I here give an extract 
 of Thomson's description of them ("Through Massailand," 
 pp. 510 and 512). 
 
 "There lay before me a huge pit, thirty feet deep, one 
 hundred feet long, and about twenty broad, cut perpendicularly 
 out of a volcanic agglomerate of great compactness." In this 
 cave Thomson found entire villages. " On inquiry as to who 
 
426 KEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 made this curious excavation, I was told that it was God's work. 
 'How,' said they, 'could we, with our puny implements' (ex- 
 hibitiiio; a toy-like axe, their only non-warlike instrument), 'cut 
 out a hole like this ? And this is nothing in comparison with 
 others which you may see all round the mountain. See there, 
 and there, and there ! These are of such great size that they 
 penetrate far into utter darkness, and even we have not seen the 
 end of them. In some there are large villages, with entire herds 
 of cattle. And yet you ask who made them ! They are truly 
 God's work ! ' . . . There was absolutely no tradition regarding 
 these caves among the people. ' Our fathers lived here, and 
 their fathers did the same,' was the invariable reply to all my 
 questions. . . . And yet the caves bore incontestable evidence 
 on the face of them that they had neither a natural nor super- 
 natural origin. They must have been excavated by the hand of 
 man. That was a fact about which there could absolutely be no 
 two opinions." 
 
 Thomson himself comes to the following conclusion : " Look- 
 ing at everything, I can come to but one conclusion, and that is, 
 that in a very remote era some very powerful race, considerably 
 advanced in arts and civilisation, excavated these great caves 
 in their search for precious stones, or possibly some precious 
 metal. . . . Are we to suppose that the Egyptians really got 
 so far south ? If not, what other race could have cut these 
 extraordinary recesses ? " 
 
 And now let us hear what the people in Uganda still, at 
 the present day, relate concerning the origin of the first Kintu. 
 The first Kintu came from the north to Uganda, and was in 
 every respect a supernatural being. He possessed the know- 
 ledge of all things, and brought civilisation and culture into 
 the land. After having given many proofs of his supernatural 
 greatness, Kintu married a daughter of heaven, and from this 
 marriage sprang the dynasty that at the present day still sits 
 on the throne of Uganda. (See Felkin, "Waganda, Tribe of 
 Central Africa," " Proceedings of the Royal Geographical 
 Society," pp. 764, 765.) 
 
 Thus we meet with mythical indications from Egypt con- 
 
IDEAS FOR FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 427 
 
 cerning the undertakings of a remarkable man proceeding 
 southwards, and in Uganda we find similar mythical recollec- 
 tions of the appearance of a hero from the north. Even at the 
 present day we find in El Gumi magnificent monuments of 
 old civilised work, and in Arabian narratives we meet with 
 the name Gumri, which has a marvellous analogy in sound 
 with El Gumi. Do not these facts combine to prove that 
 there was a time when Egyptian enterprise actually extended 
 as far as the source of the White Nile ? The historic tradition 
 which still lives in Uganda tells of the conquest of the Historic 
 entire territory by a white race that descended from the a'^^iie^ °^ 
 north, crossed the Nile at Mruli, and united the whole ^^''^^ 
 region around Lakes Victoria and Albert into one great king- 
 dom. These are the herdsmen tribes of Beyma M^ho, as I have 
 stated, have remained to this day an unmixed race in Uganda, 
 being either of old Abyssinian origin, or at all events repre- 
 sentatives of nations from the north of Uganda. Does this 
 tradition stand in any connection with the old fabulous myths 
 which I have just mentioned, and according to which the son of 
 an Egyptian king assembled the peoples of Abyssinia and the 
 Soudan, to lead them to the source of the Nile ? And to what 
 a great historic revolution does not all this point ! 
 
 I must confine myself to throwing out all these ideas as 
 problems for further investigations, and to suggest explanations 
 for which, perhaps, no real premises may ever be found, unproved 
 as they come to us only through the misty dawn of t^«»"«^' 
 prehistoric times. As memorials, there remain to us only the 
 rock-cut dwellings of Elgon and the sepulchral monuments 
 of the Wakintu ; but who can assert that these stand in direct 
 connection with each other ? 
 
 I sum up briefly, under the following heads, the result of my 
 own observations and conclusions. 
 
 1. Ancient Egyptian relations and civilising influences 
 spread, either directly or indirectly, as far as Uganda, and 
 their fame at least reached even to Unjamwesi (the Land of 
 the Moon). ' 
 
 2. In historic times an immigration took place into Uganda, 
 
428 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of a race stronger than the Bantu, and they founded a great 
 kingdom, under the dynasty of the Wakintu, and from their 
 Summary of intermixing here with the aborigines has arisen the 
 ticfnslnd Uganda nation of the present. 
 
 conclusions. 3 Perhaps it was this very immigration which 
 brought about the cultured relations with Egypt to which the 
 graves of the kings seem to point. One might conclude that 
 these proceeded from nomad tribes of Southern Egypt or of 
 Abyssinia, perhaps under the leadership of an Egyptian prince 
 (Mfalme). Or it might be, that the trade relations of ancient 
 Egypt, extending to Lake Victoria, and this authentic immigra- 
 tion from the north, were separate from each other, and only in 
 Uganda became amalgamated into that system of Avhich obscure 
 traces can be still recognised. 
 
 4. The Wakintu are described, both in legend and tradition, 
 as coming of a far superior race, which brought the first begin- 
 nings of culture to Uganda, and in consequence are venerated, 
 to the present day, with divine honours. The members of this 
 dynasty still retain, according to their own belief, the gift of 
 prophecy, of which Mtesa frequently makes practical use. We 
 may conclude that in them and their surroundings the reason 
 may be found for the higher position occupied by the Waganda, 
 compared with the other Bantu, and for their country possessing 
 a proportionately greater history. 
 
 It was not possible for me to prove anything definite. It 
 would be necessary either to seek for exact information in 
 Egyptian hieroglyphic evidence, or, if the statement be true that 
 records exist in the most ancient tombs of the kings, to disinter 
 these records and decipher them. Were we to succeed in obtain- 
 ing accurate knowledge, a new light would be shed both upon 
 the history of the Egyptians and the development of affairs in 
 Central Africa. 
 
 ***** 
 
 Amidst such occupations and conjectures the days in Uganda 
 passed away rapidly enough. In the afternoons I was in the 
 habit of taking longer or shorter walks with Mons. Lourdel ; or 
 the gentlemen of the English Mission would come to spend the 
 
INTRIGUES OF TEE KATIKIRO. 429 
 
 evening with me. The afternoon hours I frequently spent with 
 Muanga, with whom I continued uninterruptedly to maintain 
 friendly relations. I also associated much and gladly with 
 other great men of Waganda. With the Katikiro alone 
 I could not get on a good footing. At the beginning he tiro and Ms 
 strove to win me over by clumsy flattery. Failing in °®''*™®'^*°- 
 this, he thought proper to adopt towards me the lofty demeanour 
 of the Prime Minister of Uganda towards strangers. Every 
 moment his servant Stephano brought me the message, " Kati- 
 kiro amekwita " ("The Katikiro sends for you"). At first I 
 would politely decline to go to him. At length the thing became 
 rather too strong for me. " The Katikiro? " "Yes, you are to 
 come to him immediately." " Ask the Katikiro whether he is 
 gone mad. If he wishes to see me, he can come to me ; if I 
 wish to see him I will go to him ; but I do not wish to see him." 
 This put an end to his intrusiveness ; but from that time forth 
 our meetings at court were of a bitter-sweet character. 
 
 In the English Mission in Uganda I had also found some 
 books, amongst them Shakespeare, and Gibbon's " Decline and 
 Fall," which I was accustomed to read. March 15th, the 
 day fixed for my departure, came round ; but nothing was to be 
 seen of the boats. Dr. Felkin is right in saying that it Difficulties 
 is easier to get into Uganda than to get out of it. On ^^ ^s»"**- 
 reading the accounts of travellers through this country we find 
 this statement fully verified. 
 
 Consequently, on March 16th I betook myself to King 
 Muanga, and said to him, " To-day the boats were to have been 
 ready for me. Where are they ? " 
 
 " I have received information," he replied, " that they are 
 already assembled at Sesse, and are on their way to Uganda." 
 
 " As they have not yet arrived, I prefer to go by land,, 
 through South Uganda, to Bunjako, and to reach Sesse in that 
 way. I intend to leave here on Monday." 
 
 " Wait another week," answered Muanga, "and if the boats 
 have not arrived by that time you can depart ; but I am certain 
 that they will be here." 
 
 " Very well, then, I shall wait another week." 
 
430 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 On arriving at home I received a letter from Herr von 
 Tiedemann, confirming the statement made by Muanga regard- 
 ing the assembling of the boats. 
 
 But the next week went by, and again nothing was to be 
 heard of the boats. During this week I made friends with 
 A lady in Muanga's mother, the favourite wife of Mtesa, whom 
 Uganda, j yisited, and with whom I exchanged presents of 
 various kinds. She is a woman who can be really called a 
 lady, about forty years of age, of still youthful appearance, and 
 extremely agreeable manners. 
 
 On March 21st I informed Muanga that I had finally 
 decided to leave for Bunjako, opposite Sesse, and that I should 
 break up my camp on Monday, March 24th. On the 22nd, 
 just as I had finished dinner, and was smoking my pipe, the 
 king sent to me with the request that I would step across 
 to the court. I quickly donned my uniform and hurried off. 
 Important in the hope of at length receiving tidings of the 
 wUh the^ arrival of the boats. I found Mons. Lourdel and 
 king. Messrs. Walker and Gordon already in waiting. On 
 my arrival Mons. Lourdel informed me that a letter had arrived 
 from Mr. Jackson, which I should request the king to let me 
 see. Muanga sought at first, from what motive I do not know, 
 to prevent my reading the letter. On my repeated request, 
 however, he handed it to me, remarking, at the same time, 
 I was not to allow myself to be disturbed by its contents, as he 
 attached no sort of importance to it. I took Jackson's letter 
 in my hand, — and who shall describe my astonishment on 
 reading the following statement made by this gentleman ? He 
 had received information, he wrote, that Dr. Carl Peters and 
 Herr von Tiedemann had reached Uganda, on their march 
 towards Emin Pasha. He considered it his duty to inform 
 Mr Jack- ^^^^?,^ that these two gentlemen were sojourning 
 son's in these regions without the consent of their Govern- 
 
 letter . 
 
 ment. With the sanction of the German and Enghsh 
 Governments, he had undertaken the task of preventing their 
 further progress, and, if necessary, of arresting them. Being 
 absent himself, he now requested his friend Muanga to carry 
 
2rR. JACKSON'S PROCEEDINGS. 431 
 
 out this arrest, as these two men had clone mischief enough 
 in Africa already. Moreover, he hoped soon himself to see 
 Muanga, as he was coming with five hundred men. 
 
 The letter was dated in the first days of March, and was 
 marked as being sent from Kawirondo. I have already stated 
 that I had repeatedly offered Mr. Jackson friendly co-operation 
 in these regions, that I had given him information concerning 
 the road to Uganda, and had loyally made known to him my 
 negotiations with the king. And this letter to the king of 
 Uganda was Mr. Jackson's reply ! He had been afraid to 
 march into the place with five hundred men, and knew Muanga 
 only as the murderer of Hannington and the persecutor of the 
 Christians. He now requested this ruler of Uganda, dreaded 
 by him, to arrest Herr von Tiedemann and myself ! 
 
 Mr. Jackson must have known, by the whole tenor of my 
 expedition, what such a request meant. Above all, he must 
 have known that I would allow myself to be arrested Danger of 
 alive by no man, and that, on the other hand, Muanga, aassacre. 
 if he felt inclined to accede to the wishes of the English, would 
 (Certainly not have ordered simply our arrest, but would make 
 things safe by the massacre of our whole expeditionary force. 
 This did not deter him from sending such a proposal to Uganda. 
 I must confess, that the first sentiment I experienced on reading 
 this letter was one of contempt for the Englishmen in Kawi- 
 rondo, who appeared to me to be just the people, indeed, to stop 
 the German Emin Pasha Expedition, or even to arrest us ! 
 Mr. Jackson, with his pedantic way of carrying through his 
 expedition, and his timid indecision, was the right man to 
 make an impression on me ! My second sensation was one 
 of heartfelt pain, that an Englishman should venture, painfui 
 here in Uganda, to claim the authority of the German sensations. 
 Government in taking measures against a German expedition. 
 It was not until afterwards that I ascertained that Mr. Jackson 
 was here speaking advisedly. On March 22nd, after reading 
 this letter, I could quietly inform Muanga, from my firm belief, 
 that this statement of Jackson's was contrary to fact. 
 
 " It is well known in what relation Mr. Jackson stands to me." 
 
432 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " Certainly, certainly ! " said Muanga, to whom this explana- 
 tion appeared quite plausible. 
 
 After we had all taken leave of the king, I again returned 
 to him with Mons. Lourdel. 
 
 Muanga once more took up Jackson's letter, spat upon it, and 
 threw it behind him over his shoulder. Then he said to me, — 
 
 " Jackson is my enemy, and I am the enemy of Jackson. 
 Now I am your friend. The Katikiro and the Englishmen have 
 Muanga's hecu here, and have urged me to invite Mr. Jackson 
 declaration, g^gg^^j^ to Uganda. If you like, take my soldiers, go to^ 
 meet them, and do with them what you think right." 
 
 "This does not appear to me to be either to your interest or 
 to the advantage of us all," I replied. " It is in Europe that 
 whatever is to take place here in Uganda must be decided, and 
 Dr. Peters's it IS better not to let myself be hindered in my depar- 
 ^^^^^- ture towards the lake. Mr. Jackson is in the habit of 
 marching very slowly, and who can tell when he may arrive 
 here, or whether he will come at all ? It is better that I should 
 acquire for you the lands on the west side of the lake, and 
 then make my way to th^e coast, to look after your affairs- 
 there." 
 
 " This appears to me the better way also," said Muanga. " I 
 have received intelligence that the boats have already reached 
 Ntebe. If you will, you can go thither and embark in them." 
 
 How right I was, in my supposition that Jackson would be 
 long indeed before he came to Uganda, was proved in the follow- 
 ing month. He did not arrive there until the latter half of 
 April. 
 
 In those days violent disputes took place between Muanga 
 and the Katikiro. Though Muanga was ready to permit 
 Dispute Jackson's visit to Uganda, he persistently asserted that 
 between he considered himself freed from all obligations towards 
 
 jxLuanga ana ^ 
 
 theKati- the English, and that he had not the slightest inten- 
 tion to renew such obligations with them. 
 I gave orders that everything should be made ready for my 
 departure. On the afternoon of March 22nd I took a formal 
 leave of Muanga. 
 
MUANGA'S LOYAL EXPRESSIONS. 433 
 
 "Tell the people of Europe," said he, "that in case the 
 English should form an alliance with their friends, the Arahs, 
 and attack me, I protest, through you, against every 
 act of violence on their part. If the English try to set message to 
 up their Protectorate in Uganda I shall make war ^"°p®- 
 against them. If I am beaten, I shall go forth with all my people 
 to another country. This I empower you to make known in 
 Europe, and do you come hack to me soon, my friend. I know 
 that you are my friend, and beg you to say this to your great 
 Emperor. I shall always remain the friend of those Europeans 
 who wish to live peaceably in Uganda, but especially the friend of 
 the German people. This I swear by God and by Jesus Christ." 
 
 " Farewell, Muanga. I came willingly to Uganda when you 
 called me, and have been glad to help you. You know for cer- 
 tain that 1 shall always remain your friend, and shall always be 
 glad to help you." 
 
 Then Muanga replied, " Accept my thanks for what you have 
 done for me and the ^Yaganda, and tell the Europeans and tell 
 your Emperor to send you to me again." 
 
 Contrary to his usual practice, Muanga accompanied me 
 to the outer gate of his palace. Another pressure of civilities of 
 the hand, and I hurried down the hill of Mengo towards ^^^ ^"^• 
 my camp. 
 
 Two hours later, a messenger from the king appeared before 
 me, with the announcement that Karema was marching from the 
 north, that he had burnt a number of villages, and that in a 
 day or two he might arrive before Mengo. Under these circum- 
 stances Muango warned me not to proceed along the land route 
 by Ntebe. 
 
 " Wait here a few days longer, until we receive accurate 
 intelligence." 
 
 " How does Muanga know this ? " I asked. 
 
 " The Katikiro is with him, and has brought the man with 
 him who came with the news from the north." intrigues 
 
 " Then tell Muanga, no announcement made by the of the 
 
 ^ . . . Katikiro. 
 
 Katikiro shall prevent my carrymg out our arrange- 
 ments, and that I intend starting to-morrow morning." 
 
434 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I saw cleai"ly at once, what proved a few days later to be the 
 complete truth, that the Katikiro had made use of Karema's 
 advance as a ruse to induce the king to call Mr. Jackson to his 
 aid, and thus to serve the English cause. I was determined to 
 put a spoke in his wheel in this matter. 
 
 The next morning I betook myself, with my whole column, 
 which was kept in readiness for marching, in the first instance 
 to the Roman Catholic Mission, to obtain further information. 
 A heavy downpour of rain gave occasion for giving my men 
 refuge in the barns of the station, and deferring their march. 
 Mens. Lourdel informed me that the Catholic party, to which 
 Muanga belongs, had meanwhile received reports of Karema's 
 approach ; and soon after I received, in addition, an imploring 
 letter from Muanga. 
 
 " Stay in Uganda, my friend. Karema and the Arabs and 
 „ , Wanioro are coming. To-day or to-morrow we shall 
 
 Muanga's '' o .; 
 
 imploring have war. Do not forsake me in this need, and I shall 
 be eternally grateful to you." 
 My resolution was at once taken. I must not, under any 
 circumstances, quit Uganda until this matter had been decided. 
 On the morning of March 24th, believing a struggle to be immi- 
 nent, and hearing that the boats had reached Kasi, opposite 
 Bulingogwe, I first asked permission to send away the women 
 and invalids of our expedition at once as far as Sesse, where 
 they would be in safety under the protection of Herr von Tiede- 
 mann. This was at once granted, and the column set out, in 
 consequence, at nine o'clock, for Lake Victoria. Retaining only 
 Collecting twenty-five men at Uganda, I returned with these to 
 the forces. ^^ camp, and then sent to the king, requesting him 
 immediately to call together a general council of war, consisting 
 of the army and the great men of the Waganda. By one o'clock, 
 all Mengo and Rubaja were full of Muanga's picturesquely 
 adorned dancing soldiers. I then betook myself, with my 
 Somalis, to the ro3'al fortress, where the chief men of the land 
 were already ass^embled. A fantastic and spirit-stirring im- 
 pression was produced by the approach of the several troops of 
 soldiers surrounding their king. Carrying their muskets sloped 
 
THE GREAT COUNCIL AND ITS OPINION. 435 
 
 over the right shoulder, one column after another came 
 dancing along, singing fierce songs, in which they swore de- 
 struction to Muanga's enemies, and fidelity to their king. The 
 entire assembly rose on my entrance, and • I addressed Muanga 
 as follows : — 
 
 " "Well, Muanga, Karema is advancing. This is good, for 
 to-day we can bring this whole matter to an end." 
 
 An approving laugh rang through the spacious hall. Then 
 I continued, — 
 
 " Weil, this affair must be cleared up. If Karema is in the 
 north of Uganda, burning your villages and driving away your 
 subjects, let us go forth this very afternoon to beat him Defiance to 
 and drive him back to Unjoro. If this pleases you, I ^^^^ema. 
 am prepared, with the few men that remain with me, to put 
 myself at the head of your army, and will undertake the 
 responsibility of overthrowing the enemy." 
 
 " The tidings are still uncertain," replied Muanga. " What 
 say you, Gabriel ? " 
 
 Gabriel, the commander of the Waganda troops, and my 
 very particular friend, prostrated himself before the king, ^^^^^^^ ^^^ 
 and said, " Mfalme ! the white man, the Doctori, is difference 
 right. Let us march northwards, and attack Karema." 
 
 Thereupon the Katikiro's confidential man arose, and said, 
 "We Protestants, when we returned with thee a few weeks 
 since to Uganda, bound ourselves to fight Karema and the Arabs 
 only in case they should attack your capital ; but we are not 
 bound to march to the north, and to attack Karema ourselves. 
 Tell Dr. Patasi to wait here until Karema attacks us in Mengo. 
 If he desires to go, however, let him await the arrival of Mr. 
 Jackson with the English expedition, when we shall be strong 
 enough to beat not only Karema, but the Wanjoro as well." 
 
 I rose and said, " We are strong enough as we are to beat 
 both Karema and the Wanjoro, and if the Katikiro and his 
 party do not wish to march with us, then let us go j,^ ^^^^^^ 
 alone to attack Karema, or at least find out whether ^^ii^^'t;^"'^ 
 he is in Uganda at all. If you do not like this either, 
 then send out scouts to bring in tidings from the north. If, as 
 
436 XKW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the Katikiro asserts, Karema is really only one day's march 
 north of Mengo, the scouts can bring us news by to-morrow 
 afternoon. I will stay in Uganda till the tidings come. Should 
 this prove not to be the case, I will then march to Lake 
 Victoria to join my boats, and leave all the rest to you. This is 
 my determination. Now say whether it is good or not." 
 
 Muanga replied, " Thou hast spoken rightly. If the Kati- 
 kiro and his party will not join us in the fight, let us send out 
 scouts, who shall bring us tidings by to-morrow afternoon. If 
 they tell us that Karema is coming, fight with us against him ; 
 but if they report that the news is a lie, go to the lake, where 
 the boats shall remain waiting for thee in the meantime." 
 
 This proposal met with general acceptance, and I was told 
 it was immediately to be put into execution. Accordingly, I 
 Mr. wai- returned to my camp. That evening Mr. Walker, of 
 ker's visit, ^jjg English Mission, came to tell me that he did not 
 believe any scouts had been sent out. He was already inclined 
 to think that the whole matter was a fabrication. 
 
 I waited until the following afternoon, when Mons. Lourdel 
 called, to inform me he had received confidential information 
 that Karema was not in the country at all, and that the whole 
 story had, according to my former supposition, been invented 
 merely to frighten Muanga, and to force him once more to make 
 the offer to Jackson that he would accept the British Protectorate 
 in return for assistance. In the afternoon I received a letter 
 Gabriel's from Gabriel, which I still have in my possession. He 
 letter. wrote thus : " My scouts have just come in, and they 
 report that neither Mahdi, nor Karema, nor Wanjoro are in 
 Uganda, and that the whole thing is a lie. Leave here to- 
 morrow if you wish. If, on the contrary, you will stay here, 
 we shall rejoice." 
 
 I now gave decisive orders for departure the next morning. 
 That evening Gabriel spent at my supper table, where I regaled 
 him with tea. 
 
 We talked much of Germany and Uganda, and he expressed 
 a wish to visit me some day in Germany. But it would be still 
 better if I should soon return to Uganda, to arrange all matters 
 
DEPARTURE FOR BULINGOGWE. 437 
 
 in friendship between the Germans and the English. I may 
 honestly say, that it was a matter of genuine sorrow for me to 
 part from the distinguished and quiet-mannered young Waganda, 
 the only real native gentleman whom I met with in this 
 country. 
 
 It was still early next morning when, according to the old 
 custom, we set off southward with beat of drum. The air had 
 been cleared in the night by thunder -showers, that had 
 lasted up to nearly six o'clock, and a brilliant sun the morn- 
 illumined the smiling landscape. What a different ^"^' 
 picture I now saw before me from that of the desolated Uganda, 
 on the day when I first entered it ! Everywhere, once more, 
 broad and well-kept roads and happy groups of people ; every- 
 where the blessing of labour in field and village. A feeling of 
 gratitude arose in my heart at the remembrance that it had 
 been vouchsafed to me to assist in bringing about this peaceful 
 state of things in the country, and I experienced a joyous hope 
 for the future. The German Emin Pasha Expedition had been 
 able to do good work after all ; and who could tell what further 
 results it might be instrumental in producing for the later 
 development of Central Africa ? 
 
 Thus with light hearts we travelled ever in a southerly 
 direction through the well-cultivated country. Soon the fields 
 gave way to a park-like forest, traversed by a wide road, a land of 
 Now we enter the region of the hills which tower P^*''*y- 
 around the Victoria Lake on the north. Suddenly the water 
 gleams at our feet on the left. The shimmering blue lake lies 
 stretched before our astonished gaze. We descend the slope, and 
 I ask, — 
 
 "What country is it that we see before us over ^^^^^^^^ 
 there .P" ofBuUn- 
 
 gogwe. 
 
 " It is Bulingogwe," replied Marco. 
 
 The boats lay at Kasi, on the right side of the furthermost 
 inlet of Murchison Bay. The Wasesse were speedily made 
 aware of our arrival, and scarcely half-an-hour had elapsed 
 before the quaint boats, with their far -projecting prows, were 
 running across to take my entire column on board. In rapid 
 
438 
 
 .YEW LIGHT ON DA^K AFRICA. 
 
 course our boats £;-o liissiuii; through the calm mirror of waters to 
 Buliugoiiwe. Ill ten minutes we reach the island, and I give 
 orders to set up our camp u])on the picturesque slope overlooking 
 ]Murcliisiiii Bay and the broad lake towards the south. Behind 
 us lies the dust of Uganda's intrigues ; before us rises a, new and 
 Brilliant great jjroblem, which we have to solve. For the first 
 f,fi''„t'J,?/' time for weeks, the little marchina; flag of the German 
 
 lul expec- ' ^ ~ 
 
 tations. Euiiu Paslia Expedition, which had seen the Kenia and 
 been carried before us in our Massai encouuters, flutters in the 
 breeze. 
 
 The eye wanders with delight over the glorious bay, with its 
 wood-crowned slopes, and the heart swells with exultant joy. 
 A grand DifRcult tasks aud serious obstacles may yet lie between 
 prospect. ^^j_, ..^^^^ p^^j, native country ; but now, for the first time, 
 the words of Schiller arise in our minds ; — 
 
 " For each vessel's stately prow 
 Toward health and home is pointed now, 
 And rifiht homeward ai'o we wendintf." 
 
 
 V, 
 
 MsaMsf^' . 
 
Goethe. 
 
 ON the island of Biilingogwe, I 
 had been' passing my time, on 
 March 26th, in reading Carl3de's "Life 
 of Frederick the Great," when snd- 
 denl3% towards evening, my attention 
 was aroused by loud calls, proceeding 
 
 from the mountain ridge which intersects the island in a westerly 
 direction. On going to the entrance of my tent, which was 
 
440 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 pitched upon the western slope of Murchison Bay, I perceived 
 Mons. Lourdel descending the steep, with a few companions. I 
 Hona. had presented one half of the donkej's I had taken from 
 Lourdel, ^j^g Massais to the Roman Catholic, the other half to 
 
 the rrencn 
 
 missionary, the English missionaries. Mons. Lourdel informed me, 
 he had heard at Mengo that the Djumba had had us taken 
 to Bulingogwe, but had then recalled the boats. It at once 
 struck him that this was a trick of the Katikiro's, in whose 
 power we were completely ; so as soon as the boatmen received 
 orders to return to Sesse with their vessels, accordingly he 
 had ridden over on one of the donkeys I had given him, 
 and was going to spend the night with me. I oifered 
 . , Mons. Lourdel my best thanks, and at once ordered a 
 
 Particulars •' 
 
 of Stanley festive supper. During the meal Mons. Lourdel 
 acquainted me with some interesting facts respecting 
 Stanley's carrying off of Emin Pasha. I had already remarked, 
 that in the first letter I received from the French in Usoga the 
 news of the revolt of Emin's troops had been communicated 
 in somewhat sceptical terms. " If credit may be given to 
 certain rumours, Emin's troops are said to have mutinied." 
 Now for the first time Mons. Lourdel distinctly told me, " II n'a 
 pas voulu ; Stanley I'a pris comme un voleur ; " ("He did not 
 wish to go ; Stanley captured him like a thief") ; " and, as our 
 people at Ankore have noticed, he treated Emin very badly.'' 
 
 As these communications made to me by Mons. Lourdel 
 only represented what he had heard from others, I could not 
 Incredulity -"^^^^ up my mind to attach much importance to his 
 of Dr. words, as I could not imagine that Emin Pasha would 
 
 Peters . 
 
 allow himself to be removed by Stanlej^, against his 
 will, from a province in which he was governor. Not until 
 I reached Mpuapua did I discover that the tidings I had already 
 received in Bulingogwe, and still further in Ukumbi, did not 
 even convey the whole truth. 
 
 By his coup of April 5th, 1889, Stanley not only obliged 
 Emin Pasha to come away with him, but induced him, by 
 holding out various promises, to submit to his dictation. 
 He told Emin he would conduct him round Lake Victoria to 
 
ARRIVAL OF MUANGA'S ADMIRAL. 441 
 
 Kawirondo, and then from Mombas furnish him with the means 
 not only of recovering his former position in the Equatorial 
 Province, but also of reconquering Uganda and Unjoro, though 
 certainly it would be under the sovereignty of the British East 
 African Company. These promises he did not keep, later on, 
 at Usukuma, and thus he compelled Emin Pasha, against his 
 will, to march with him to the coast. This behaviour of 
 Stanleys is the more inexplicable as it was adverse to the 
 interests of those by whom he was commissioned, the sirwuiiam 
 British East African Company. The plan, in his bold ao^^g^o'id 
 way suggested by Sir William Mackinnon, of ac- v^^^- 
 quiring for England the countries of the Upper Nile, must 
 indeed be called grand. That it failed entirely is, in the first 
 instance, the fault of Stanley and no less of Jackson, both of 
 whom, on arriving at the place, were wanting in the necessary 
 determination to put it into execution at the right moment. 
 This matter formed the subject of conversation between Mons. 
 Lourdel and myself during our supper, and Lourdel once more 
 expressed his conviction that, in consequence of Jackson's 
 indecision, England had certainly lost the opportunity of 
 taking peaceable possession of Uganda. 
 
 Our conversation was suddenly interrupted by the landing 
 of people from boats just below my tent, and the arrival of 
 a large procession. Muanga's Djumba (Admiral) appeared, 
 bringing with him presents of honour for me ; he was accom- 
 panied by Nugula, whom he introduced as the Kabaka Arrival of 
 (king's representative) in the Uganda expedition, of^"^"^^- 
 which I was to take the command for the clearing of the west 
 shore of the lake. Nugula prostrated himself before me, and 
 swore to obey me in all things. The flotilla, destined to carry 
 the men employed in the collection of tribute money to 
 Busiba, the projecting land of Karague, to the south of the 
 Kagera, was assembled at Sesse, which I could reach from 
 Bulingogwe in three days. 
 
 " There you will find nearly a hundred boats. To-morrow 
 morning the thirty-three boats especially destined for the trans- 
 port of your column shall be in the bay, to take us first to Mfoh." 
 
442 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " And where shall I find the sick people I sent to Sesse a few 
 
 daj's since ? " 
 
 " These, too, will be here at Bulingogwe to-morrow. They 
 lost their way the day before yesterday, and marched to Ntebe. 
 Nuguia's When I learnt that you yourself had started for Sesse 
 report. to-day I immediately sent boats to bring these back, 
 and to-morrow they will be here again." 
 
 Here was a fresh proof of the way in which the Waganda 
 keep their promises. I now dismissed Djumba and Nugula, 
 once more giving them orders to have the boats in readiness at 
 sunrise. Mons. Lourdel then retired to one of the huts by the 
 shore, below my tent, where he passed anything but a comfort- 
 able night in a lounging chair, as these huts swarm with vermin. 
 The following morning I was roused by a deluge of rain. It did 
 not cease until 6.30, at which hour Mons. Lourdel appeared to 
 breakfast. I take this opportunity to mention, that throughout 
 Dietary on the expedition I adhered to the principle of three meat 
 the march, jj^g^ls a day. In the mornings, previous to the starting 
 of our column, a cup of hot coffee, or cocoa, and milk was taken, 
 at which meal cold meat and, as a rule, some porridge and 
 honey were at our disposal. On the march I caused a halt to 
 be made for a quarter of an hour between ten and eleven, when 
 we partook of cold meat and mustard and cold porridge. On 
 our arrival in camp a good soup was immediately prepared, and 
 some meat was roasted, and this proceeding was repeated at six 
 in the evening. Coffee, for which, having cattle with us, we 
 were generally provided with milk, always formed the conclusion 
 of each meal, and, as a finish, we smoked the tobacco of the 
 African country from a native pipe. The tobacco differs con- 
 tobacco, siderably in the various provinces, but sometimes, as 
 among the Gallas, on the Tana, and in Kawirondo, for instance, 
 it is an aromatic and fragrant luxury. At any rate, we vastly 
 preferred it to some tobacco we found in Ukumbi, which had 
 come from Europe . Occasionally an agreeable addition was made 
 to our table by a good fish from the lake. Besides this, I had 
 the good fortune to secure some large parcels of smoked grass- 
 hoppers, neatly packed in matting, which constituted an excellent 
 
MONS. LOURDEL A HELPER IN NEED. 443 
 
 hors iVceuvre. Fried in fat, they taste A'ery much like pork 
 sausages(?) ; and having had the luck to avert a threatened salt 
 famine by the purchase of ten pounds of Unjoro salt in Uganda, 
 we could indulge in a little salt with them without any twinges 
 of conscience. As at the lake we could always get bananas and 
 other fruits, and often, too, refreshing buttermilk, our scale of 
 provisioning during the next few weeks was an exceedingly 
 satisfactory one for Africa, and, in consequence, we enjoyed 
 good health. 
 
 Mons. Lourdel and I waited till half-past seven for the boats 
 to come across ; but the Sesse people, of whom the boats' crews 
 entirely consisted, gave no signs of moving. As 
 
 ' o o o Dilatori. 
 
 Djumba and Nugula had been taken back to the other nessofthe 
 side, we found ourselves in the very position which, on "* ™*"' 
 the previous day, Mons. Lourdel had feared would be mine. We 
 went down to the shore, and signalled across to the Sesse people. 
 No answer ; not a sign that we had been understood, or that 
 any one was willing to attend to our summons. I now proposed 
 to Mons. Lourdel that he should go with me to the island, 
 and try if we could not ferret out some small fishing boat, in 
 which we could row across to the flotilla. In the bay, between 
 the mainland and the island, a few of these boats were gliding 
 about, with one or two men in each. In vain did Mons. Lourdel 
 make signs to them to approach. At last, on his telling them 
 that he commanded them in the name of the king, one of them 
 came as far as the reeds on the margin of the island, but he 
 refused to come close up to us. Then Mons. Lourdel lost 
 patience. With one bound he was in the lake, and, j^^„j,4gi,g 
 before the fisherman had time to row off, he had seized energetic 
 
 1-1 • in c -I ■ f measure. 
 
 the boat, and, with a vigorous blow or his fist, sent one 
 of them overboard. He jumped into the boat, and, wet through 
 as he was, he by himself pulled across towards the flotilla, calling 
 out to me to remain where I was, and that he would bring the 
 boats. So soon as the Sesse people perceived that we had got 
 in possession of a boat, they immediately unmoored the whole 
 flotilla, and began racing across to us, each striving to out-row the 
 rest. They had evidently not intended, with malice prepense, 
 
444 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 to leave us in the hole, but beinij under no control, had given 
 themselves up to a comfortable " dolce far niente." At the 
 :'i: . lake I was soon convinced that my way of [conducting 
 with idle the expedition, by starting before sunrise, was utterly 
 peop e. impracticable with these people. Every morning I 
 had to begin the struggle afresh against the laziness of the 
 boatmen. 
 
 The Sesse Islands are the great naval station and the sailors' 
 
 s 
 
 recruiting ground of the King of Uganda. Hundreds of boat: 
 are to be found here, which, at a moment s notice from the king, 
 must be placed at his disposal. With this fleet the Waganda 
 have conquered for themselves the supremacy over the whole of 
 Lake Victoria. Any boats belonging to other tribes that make 
 their appearance upon the lake, and do not at once submit to the 
 Kabaka, are, without more ado, seized and destroyed. In this 
 wise all the regions north and west of the lake have been laid 
 under tribute by him. 
 
 About ten o'clock Mons. Lourdel, still wet through, returned 
 to Bulingogwe. I immediately furnished him with a change ot 
 Fatal con- clothiug, but I fear that morning laid the seeds of the 
 toMonr^ fever to which, to my deep sorrow, he soon afterwards 
 Lourdel. fell a victim. I had learnt to esteem very highly the 
 calm and energetic man M'ho so thoroughly championed the 
 interests of his Church in Uganda. He was then thirty-nine 
 years of age, had laboured in Uganda since 1879, and had taken 
 his share in all the vicissitudes this country had undergone. He 
 had, moreover, no desire ever to quit Uganda. 
 
 I now took leave of him. My invalid column had actually 
 been brought over from Kasi to the other side. My baggage 
 and people were soon embarked on the boats, and I took my seat 
 in the largest of them. In the front part of the boat is an open 
 space, where the arm-chair was placed on which I sat. I pro- 
 tected myself against the spray that dashed over the bows with 
 an antelope skin, which Mons. Lourdel presented to me in the 
 moment of our parting. 
 
 " Au revoir, Mons. Lourdel ; au revoir, either in Europe or 
 in Uganda," I called out from the boat for the last time. 
 
T%_ 
 
 t cI 
 
 
 
THE VICTORIA XYAXZA LAKE. 445 
 
 " Au revoir in Uganda, if it be God's will," he replied, 
 waving his handker chief vigorously in salute. 
 
 I returned his farewell salutation, and the boats Parting 
 went hissing through the blue waters towards the south, goodmit- 
 It was indeed a glorious sight, such as is seldom met ^"""y- 
 with. The morning was cool after the downpour of the night, 
 and the power of the sun was mitigated by the fleecy clouds that 
 floated across it. To the right and left the sharp outlines of the 
 coast of Uganda, studded with forests or plantations, stood forth 
 along the wide-stretching Murchison Bay. Before us, in the 
 far distance, was dimly visible a group of islands, of which as 
 yet only the peaks of the mountains showed themselves 
 
 . View on 
 
 above the horizon. And the fantastic boats careered on- the Lake 
 wards, like horses of the sea striving with each other in ^"*°^^^- 
 a race. A light southerly breeze refreshed the senses and nerves. 
 To-day it was scarcely able to curl the surface of the water, nor 
 did we as yet experience anything of the ocean-like motion of 
 the waves which often, even without any great amount of wind, 
 suddenly agitates the surface of Lake Victoria. 
 
 Mobile as the expression of an intellectual face, is the aspect 
 of the Victoria Nyanza. To-day it raises its blue eyes thought- 
 fully towards the lofty firmament, glowing with the sweet fresh- 
 ness of youth, awakening the heart to cheerful thoughts. 
 Sparkling in the brilliant sunlight, it stretches before us into 
 seemingly endless distance. On the horizon gleams a verdant 
 isle, or perhaps the mountain summit of an island, like some 
 beautiful Fata Morgana. Here we have before us the actual 
 realization of the Islands of the Blest. White swans and ducks 
 skim along the deep blue water. Eagles circle above it, intent 
 on the capture of fish, which spring in shoals out of the ^^^ .^ 
 waves, and here and there some large grey-bellied por- lake 
 
 7 ID (D */ ^ Victoria. 
 
 poise tumbles about, rollicking in the tepid flood. Thus 
 in its holiday garb the Victoria Lake stretches before us, and 
 only from time to time, like an apparition from dreamland, the 
 shadow of a fantastic cloud glides across its mirror. By noon 
 the eastern shore recedes more and more ; we keep along the 
 western side, passing sharply-defined groups of trees and pretty 
 
446 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 half-concealed villages. The boats of the flotilla are, by this 
 time, widelj' scattered. My large vessel, propelled by twenty- 
 six oarsmen, and bearing the large black, white, and red flag, 
 shoots forward in advance, marshalling the rest on their way. 
 
 At three o'clock we reach a flat island, exactly facing 
 Murchison Bay on the south. Here we make a halt, to give 
 Noonday the men a short rest and collect the scattered flotilla. 
 ''*"■ But I cannot stay here long. Already, in a quarter 
 of an hour, I give the order to resume our voyage towards the 
 island Mfoh, situated opposite Cape Ntebe, where we are to 
 spend the night. We now turn to the west, leaving Uganda's 
 characteristic coast behind us to the north. Forward we go at 
 accelerated speed, and the foam hisses merrily on the bow of the 
 boat. From time to time we take a wave on board, the spray 
 rolling from my antelope skin. The lake, but this morning 
 smooth as a mirror and almost languishing, seeming to draw 
 the vault of heaven towards it, is now lightly stirred by the 
 gentle evening breeze. Just as when a slight frown passes over 
 a thoughtful brow, its surface now assumes a totally different 
 aspect. Soon mysterious forms arise above the horizon, far in 
 the south-west. At first the spectator cannot tell whether these 
 are boats of strange shape, or whati they are. Marco, 
 the sesse who is seated behind me, tells me they are the 
 western outlines of the Sesse Islands. The sun sinks 
 lower and lower ; the lake in the west is like a glowing mass 
 of fire. My boat rushes swiftly through the waters. I look 
 around me, and find that we are alone. Those distant specks 
 upon the horizon are the nearest of the boats following me. 
 
 Our course is directed straight to the land that rises up, ever 
 more sharply defined, before us. I am told, on enquiring, that 
 these are the outlines of the Island of Mfoh. Uganda's coast 
 winds along in a series of bays. Now it makes a sharp turn 
 northM'ards, jutting forward into the lake, like an isthmus, 
 towards the islands for which we are steering. "That is 
 Ntebe," explains Marco. 
 
 The sun has sunk into the west ; the evening glow in the 
 sky has flamed up and died away, and now Lake Victoria lies 
 
THE ISLAND OF MFOH. 447 
 
 bathed in the pale light of the full moon. The islands to the 
 south-west are no longer visible. Straight in front of us, dark 
 and rocky, rises steeply from the waters this volcanic island, 
 covered with gnarled and often strangely-shaped trees. We 
 involuntarily wonder how a landing-place is to be found here. 
 On nearer approach I become aware of a canal pene- 
 
 The canal 
 
 trating into the land, which we now enter, and that 
 we have to effect a landing on the Island of Mfoh. Whilst 
 the coast on the east is very steep, to the south and west it 
 is flat along the water's edge. Here the shore forms a wide 
 bay, and now, at seven in the evening, our boat voyage for the 
 day is to terminate. Soon the boat grates upon the flat sandy 
 shore, and the Sesse people jump into the water, to pull it a 
 long way further in. Then I am borne to the shore upon the 
 shoulders of two sturdy fellows. We have reached Mfoh, after 
 a passage of eight or nine hours, but we have still to wait 
 for the other boats before we can pitch our tents and prepare 
 supper. 
 
 Half-an-hour elapsed before the first boat came up, and at 
 midnight, when I held a final muster, some of them were still 
 missing. Fortunately the tents and accessories were Arrival at 
 in some of the foremost ones, so that by eight o'clock ^^''^■ 
 my tent was pitched close by the edge of the lake. I had to 
 wait for my supper until nearly ten o'clock, but the moon shone 
 bright, and the contours of the islands rose like phantoms out 
 of the water. My people were lodged in houses in different 
 parts of the island, and late into the night I was busy posting 
 sentries, that the boats might be watched with suf- jj^^ggji^y 
 ficient care. In those days I still feared intrigues for vigi- 
 from Uganda. Should the flotilla disappear some *'"'*• 
 night, we should probably all have been doomed to perish, 
 imprisoned on one of the islands of Lake Victoria. It was late 
 when I lay down to rest ; but I was destined not to get much 
 sleep that night. 
 
 A storm came up that night, the like of which for grandeur 
 I can hardly remember. Flash followed flash, and that I was in 
 the very midst of the electric disturbance I knew by lightning 
 
448 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 and thunder being simultaneous. The rain came hissing down 
 Great thun- on the tent and into the lake. It was as if the flood- 
 derstorm. gg^^^gg Qf heaveu had opened for another deluge, and the 
 earth was about to be swallowed up by the raging elements. 
 The storm howled and whistled. As my tent, with its iron- 
 tipped poles, was the highest point in the landscape, my position 
 was one of imminent danger. Yet I had no wish to rise. At 
 last it seemed as if Providence intervened to rescue me. The 
 storm and wind that stirred up the waves of Lake Victoria, 
 and dashed them almost to the very door of my tent, caused 
 the tent to rock to and fro, so that every moment I dreaded 
 it would collapse. I may have lain thus for about half- an - 
 hour, when my fears were suddenly realised. The ropes that 
 held down the roof on one side gave way, and I lay buried 
 
 beneath the weight of the tent. At the same instant 
 struck by the flagstaff in front of it was struck by lightning, and 
 ig nmg. J ^^^^ ^^^ shock in every nerve. The next morning 
 I discovered the flagstaff lying in pieces upon the ground, with 
 its lance point bent and half melted away. For me there was 
 but one thing to do. With nothing on but my shirt, I ran at a 
 venture towards the huts, where I knew the Somalis were housed. 
 I found them seated round a fire, and at once casting off my wet 
 garment, I wrapped myself in a woollen blanket. Then Jama 
 Ismael folded me in his arms, so that I was soon quite warm, 
 and thus escaped the dangerous consequence of my involuntary 
 shower-bath. 
 
 The dawn had come by this time, and I succeeded in finding 
 my servant, and procuring a dry change of clothes out of my 
 trunks. Having shaved and dressed, I refreshed myself with a 
 hearty breakfast after the sufferings of the night. The storm 
 The lake ^^^ ^^^^' ^^* *^® waves of the Victoria Nyanza rolled 
 after the aloug hollow, with white crests, so that my Sesse people 
 
 declared we could not proceed further that day. Mean- 
 while Stephano had arrived at Ntebe, sent by the Katikiro to 
 convey letters to the English station at Usumbiro, and at the 
 same time to carry out official measures for my expedition. He 
 handed me a hypocritical letter from the Katikiro, which ran 
 
REPLY TO THE KATIKIRO ;-LAKE VICTORIA. 449 
 
 thus : " 1 send thee greeting, again greeting, and once again 
 greeting, my friend ! Wherefore didst thou depart, my friend ? 
 Wherefore didst thou leave us, thy friends, to yearn for 
 thee in Uganda? What wilt thou reply when thy tiro's "■ '" 
 brothers on the coast ask thee, hast thou driven a^yay ^^"''^' 
 the Arabs from Uujoro, and wherefore didst thou depart from 
 Uganda before this was done P Greeting, again greeting, once 
 again greeting ! " 
 
 Two days later I replied to Katikiro from Sesse : " Greet- 
 ing, again greeting, once again greeting ! I have received your 
 letter, and read it without pleasure. I was glad to 
 leave Uganda because your quarrels Avith Muanga reply ^to*the 
 displeased me. You ask me what I shall say to my ^*''''^"^''' 
 brothers if they ask me why I departed from Uganda ? I shall 
 tell my brothers that you are a liar, and that you and your 
 friends are the ruin of Uganda. T will gladly return to Uganda, 
 and indeed with soldiers and cannon, to help Muanga to gain 
 the mastery over his bad subjects, at whose head you are. 
 Greeting, again greeting, once again greeting ! " 
 
 Although the lake was very rough all the morning, I gave 
 the order at eleven o'clock to embark for the island of Vuvoh, 
 where we intended to encamp that day. To-day the 
 waves of Lake Victoria had the same motion as those under a 
 of the Baltic ; just then one could not recognise it, "^^^^^p^" • 
 remembering the day before. Only by dint of great exertion 
 could my men make headway against the south wind. The boat 
 was dashed from side to side, so that every now and then I 
 expected it would capsize. The waves broke over the bulwarks 
 continuousl}-, and we were soon all wet to the skin. 
 
 The Sesse people are accustomed to accompany the labour 
 of rowing, almost uninterruptedl}', with rhythmic songs. The 
 leading singer stands upon one of the stern seats. He ^^ 
 sings somewhat as follows, " Hei, hei, heia ! Hei, hei, the sesse 
 hei, hei, hei, heia ! " Or different subjects form the ^^"^ ^' 
 burden of his ditty. He narrates, always in rhythm, long tales 
 of robbers connected with the lake, and love stories, to which 
 the chorus regularly sings a refrain. Or again, one of the 
 
 29 
 
450 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 ^Yaganda stands up and sings the praises of Muanga and his 
 friend the Msungu, called Kupanda. This song my people 
 caught up, and made a practice of entertaining us with it every 
 morning between the lake and the coast. 
 
 " Eh ! Buana mkubua etu Kupanda scharo ? " 
 
 Chorus : " Scharo ? " 
 
 Solo : " la scharo ! " 
 
 Chorus: "Scharo?" 
 
 Solo : " la scharo." 
 
 Chorus : " Scharo ? " 
 
 Solo : " Eh ! Buana mkubua etu Kupanda scharo ! 
 
 (" Eh ! " (drawn out) " Is not our leader the stormer of cities .P " 
 
 Chorus: "Cities?" 
 
 Solo : " Yes, cities ! " etc. 
 
 " Yes, our leader is the stormer of cities ! ") 
 
 To-day they endeavoured, by singing with half-hushed 
 voices, to appease the storm ; but in this they were not success- 
 ful. It was not till towards four in the afternoon that my boat 
 reached the island. This time I had taken the precaution of 
 bringing with me my tent, its accessories, and my luggage, so 
 that I was so far independent of the boats behind me, and could 
 at once pitch my tent in a plantation of plantain trees, on the 
 southern shore of the island. The sun of the previous day, and 
 the wind of the present one, had burnt my face dark- 
 audwind- red, and covered the skin with blisters. I became 
 more prudent in future, and used completely to cover 
 my face with linen during the hot hours in the middle of the 
 day, so that, seated in the bow of the boat, I had the appear- 
 ance of the " Veiled Picture of Sais." The voyage lost much of 
 its charm in consequence, but by this measure I escaped the 
 risk of sunstroke. 
 
 My little flotilla had been scattered by the storm, and even 
 
 on the morning of March 29th the boats were not all together. 
 
 Nevertheless, I resolved to pursue my passage to Sesse, 
 
 afresh for It was uecessary, in any case, to encamp there for a 
 
 day, or for several days, to collect the whole fleet. I 
 
 longed for the comfortable station and for the society of 
 
ON LAKE VICTORIA. 451 
 
 Europeans. For that reason I left a few of the Waganda behind 
 to look out for the missing boats, and started about ten o'clock, 
 always steering parallel with the Island of Sesse, which lay 
 before us. Once more Lake Victoria lay spread out smooth as 
 a mirror, raising its dark blue eyes to heaven. The sun lit up 
 with lovely splendour the richly -wooded shores of Sesse, sailing by 
 along whose windings we darted like an arrow. In Jf th™"^*'' 
 front of us, to the north-west, the mouth of the Ka tonga, ^^^'"^sa. 
 where the land turns sharply to the south, was clearly and 
 distinctly visible. Whilst the north of Lake Victoria 
 
 pi'iTiiii ■ • Buddtiland. 
 
 consists or high table lands, the western coast is entirely 
 
 flat. "What land is that?" I enquired. "Buddu," replied 
 
 Marco. 
 
 The experience of the previous day had taught me the wisdom 
 ■of taking on board an ample stock of provisions. So I had well 
 provided myself with meat and bananas, and this greatly con- 
 tributed to make the voyage an enjoyable one. There was also 
 much to be seen that awakened interest. The creeks of Sesse 
 swarmed with aquatic birds of all kinds ; and even if „ ^.^ , 
 
 ^ . . ' . Beautiful 
 
 this had not been the case, it was an intense enioyment landscape 
 
 of Sesse 
 
 in itself to feel in heart and mind the influence of all 
 this gorgeous tropical splendour. The soul drank in, so to speak, 
 the wondrous beauty of the landscape, and, full of idealised 
 ■enjoyment, the mind gave itself up to poetic delight. Thus 
 we continued our voyage westward, until four in the afternoon. 
 At that time we reached the north-west corner of Sesse, and now 
 the boats turned southward. Soon was distinctly visible the 
 promontory where Sesse approaches nearest to the mainland of 
 Buddu. Here I found, as I had been led to expect, the The French 
 French missionary station. The rowers pulled in™"^'""'- 
 regular time, and the boat shot swiftly past the verdant shores. 
 The figure of a white man, accompanied by a servant, came in 
 sight amongst the bushes. "Buana mdogo ! " ("The young 
 master!" literally, "The little master!") cried my Meeting 
 servants. It was indeed Herr von Tiedemann. His yon Tiede- 
 companion, as well as himself, had recognised us and '"*''''• 
 our black, white, and red flag, and as a sign of rejoicing Herr 
 
452 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 von Tiedemanu fired off his gun. I returned his salute. Soon 
 the boat grated upon the strand, and with a warm shake of the 
 hand, Herr von Tiedemann and I greeted each other once more,, 
 after a separation of several weeks. He was much rejoiced to 
 hear that the whole party was on its wa)- hither. 
 
 The news of the disturbances in Uganda had penetrated as- 
 far as Sesse, and Monseigneur Livinhac had thought I should 
 
 not get away from thence within any calculable time, 
 neur All the more joyous were the feelings of my travelling 
 
 companion, when he heard that, without any long stay 
 at Sesse, we should push on southwards. We strode along the 
 narrow pathway leading from the landing stage, and proceeded 
 up the hill to where the French station stood. To the right, 
 when the summit was reached, stood a long dwelling-house, in 
 front of us the chapel, and all around the clean and well-kept 
 houses of the parishioners, the whole surrounded by cultivated 
 gardens, and framed in by a distant background of dark woods. 
 Monseigneur Livinhac received me with the heartiest of greet- 
 ings, and congratulated me upon my unexpectedly rapid 
 departure from Uganda, which he declared to be unique in 
 Arrange- the history of travel in Uganda. I was taken to the 
 ^e"Fre°ucii i"efectory, and at once regaled with a glass of wine 
 station, and with coffee. To my regret, I learnt that one of 
 the fathers, named Schankmerl, was lying in a hopeless state 
 with congestion of the liver. There was something truly 
 sublime, to my thinking, in the calmness with which this state 
 of things was accepted by the companions of the desperately 
 sick man. " AYe are here to die," was their simple, modest 
 reply. Here was no useless lamentation, no sentimental reflec- 
 tion ; nothing but manly resignation to the decrees of Providence, 
 The well-prepared supper, served in European fashion in the- 
 refectory, which was illumined by wax lights, had, so it appeared 
 Deli its of ^° ^^> something of solemnity in it. The level of 
 civilised our Conditions of life had been so greatly depressed,, 
 
 that to sup by artificial light seemed like unheard- 
 of luxury. 
 
 When supper was over a scene was enacted, which sounds. 
 
CONVERSATION WITH JIONSEIGNEUR LiriNHAC. 
 
 453 
 
 ,so romantic, that it might have formed a part of a drama. 
 We conversed abont the affairs of Uganda, Jackson's , 
 
 '- .^ Mr. Mackay 
 
 order for my arrest, and the events of the last few da3's, and his 
 
 and naturally got to mention Mr. Mackay, the leader of 
 
 the English party in this country. I spoke of the great influence 
 
 MOXSBIGNEUK LiVINHAC BLBhSING HIS PUPILS. 
 
 he appeared to exercise in Uganda ; a view which Monseigneur 
 Livinhac entirelv confirmed. I had previously heard, that Mr. 
 Mackay had expressed the hope he felt, of still bemg able to carry 
 out his programme of making Africa an English possession, from 
 Table Mountain to the Atlas, and also giving it as his opinion 
 
454 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 that the German companies working there had no real support 
 from the German Government. When the right time came he 
 would let loose the Arabs upon the Germans, and then we should 
 see how soon the whole undertaking there would collapse. There- 
 upon I suggested the question, whether Germany would not he 
 quite justified in issuing a decree of expulsion against such a 
 man, as these plans really savoured of high treason. 
 
 " I should be quite ready to conduct Mr. Mackay to the 
 coast. But," I continued, " when do you, Monseigneur, think 
 of returning to Europe ? " 
 
 "Jamais ! I shall remain here until my death." 
 
 " That is a pity. I should be exceedingly rejoiced to have 
 had you for my travelling companion thither." 
 
 At this moment a man entered the room and threw himself 
 The bearer ^pou his ktiees at the feet of Monseigneur, whose 
 ofauim- hand he kissed. He said something to him in the 
 
 portant . . 
 
 comnmni- Wasukuma language, which I did not understand. I 
 thought I noticed Monseigneur turn somewhat pale, 
 and I looked at him expectantly. 
 
 " Mr. Mackay is dead," he said abruptly, " and I am 
 recalled to Europe." 
 
 Naturally concluding that Monseigneur Livinhac might wish 
 to be alone after receiving such important tidings, we at once 
 took leave of him, and I remarked to Herr von Tiedemann that 
 had the foregoing scene we had just witnessed been represented 
 on the stage, the author of the piece would certainly have been 
 accused of dealing in the improbable. 
 
 The next morning rose bright and clear, like its predecessor. 
 The previous day I had sent Nugula to the smaller Sesse Islands 
 to collect the large fleet with which I intended to make the 
 attack upon Busiba. 
 
 I spent Sunday, March 30th, at the French missionary 
 sunda at ^^^^i^^' ^0 collect my own expeditionary force there, 
 the French I had had my tent pitched under a huge tree, and as 
 Father Schankmerl's condition was worse that day than 
 before, we took our meals in the tent — Monseigneur, Herr von 
 Tiedemann, and I. In the night a flotilla of Muanga's had 
 
EXPLANATION WITH STEPEANO ;—THE BOATS. 455 
 
 come up from Usukuma, laden with powder and ammunition 
 for the king, and with stores for the Roman Catholic Mission. 
 I asked the leader of this expedition to exchange some of his 
 largest boats for smaller ones from my flotilla, which he agreed 
 to do, after consultation with Monseigneur Livinhac. I sent 
 for Stephano, and in Monseigneur's presence told him that 
 from this time Uganda's intrigues must be at an end, and that 
 I was well aware that he belonged to the English part}'. 
 
 " From henceforth I am again the head of this expedition, 
 and no one else, and every one belonging to it must obey me. 
 If you do this in every particular, faithfully and ^^^^^^ 
 willingly, you shall receive presents from me at Usu- advice to 
 kuma ; but if I once notice that you are working 
 against me, either openly or secretly, you will be flogged and 
 put in chains, and that is what you have to look to." 
 
 If these words addressed to the official representative of the 
 king were somewhat harsh, they produced their effect very com- 
 pletely. Throughout the entire remainder of the expedition I 
 had no cause to be displeased with Stephano. 
 
 In the afternoon the last of the boats scattered on Friday 
 made their appearance, and the same evening I learnt that the 
 great flotilla had also assembled. I left orders at Sesse Arrival ot 
 that Nugula was to follow me immediately with the 
 fleet and meet me at Sango, north of the mouth of the Kagera, 
 from whence we would go forward on the following day to 
 Busiba. I then gave orders in my fleet to have everything in 
 readiness for our leaving Sesse on the Monday morning, as pro- 
 visions were scarce at Sesse, and I was, moreover, impatient to 
 get nearer to the scene of action. So we started southwards 
 already on Monday morning, March 31st. Before leaving we 
 greeted Monseigneur Livinhac, and talked with him on the 
 subject of our travelling together from Usukuma to the coast. 
 
 Monseigneur intended to hurry after us so soon as he had 
 received from Europe the order for his recall fromMonseig- 
 Africa. This document, he expected, would be delivered ^^^ i^ten- 
 to him that very day, as the boats had brought him^'"''- 
 the news that four French missionaries had left Usukuma to 
 
456 ,V7?11' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 strengthen the number of their brethren in Uganda. He told 
 us we should probably meet them on Victoria Lake to-day or 
 to-morrow. 
 
 The morning was gloriously fine. Upon the strand our 
 people and the Waganda, who had come from the south, were 
 Our journey bustling about. In half an hour the boats were un- 
 resumed. moored and ready for departure. I entered the largest, 
 which carried the German flag. Another good-bye and au 
 revoir to Monseigneur, and away we went merrily upon the 
 lake. 
 
 So soon as we had got through the canal that separates Sesse 
 from the mainland quite an oceanic swell made itself felt. The 
 rocks swarmed with sea mews and other birds. The swelling 
 billows dashed unceasingly against the cliffs. All our boats 
 showed themselves equal to the occasion. If at one moment 
 they lay in the hollow of the waves, the next they appeared upon 
 Good boats *^^ Summit, and soon we lost the unpleasing apprehen- 
 and good siou of a possible capsizing. The men pulled steadily, 
 singing rhythmic songs ; and although their progress 
 Avas retarded both by the south monsoon and the heavy, adverse 
 swell, yet we got on rapidly enough, and towards the afternoon 
 had lost sight of most of the other boats. Consequently I made 
 my men row somewhat slower, that I might keep at any rate 
 a part of my boats in sight. Between two and three in the 
 afternoon we sighted a sail — doubtless the expected French 
 missionaries. I gave orders to stop, and sent forward some 
 of the boats. 
 
 It was, indeed, the boat containing the French missionaries. 
 The French ^^^° had no idea of our approach. My people caused 
 missionary them to lower their sail, and now I sped towards them 
 in my large boat. 
 
 "Bonjour, messieurs! Dr. Peters" ("Good morning, gen- 
 tlemen ! Dr. Peters "), I called out to them. 
 
 " Comment, Dr. Peters ! Vous n'^tes pas mort ? Nous avons 
 lu la nouvelle de votre mort." ("Dr. Peters! Then you are 
 not dead ? We have read the news of your death.") 
 
 " Non, messieurs, je ne suis pas mort du tout. N'avez-vous 
 
A MEETING, AND IMPORTANT NEWS. 457 
 
 pas quelques bouteilles de cognac pour nous ? " (" No, gentlemen, 
 I am not dead at all. HaAe you not some bottles of cognac for 
 us P ") 
 
 " Malheureusement pas." ("Unfortunately not.") 
 We were now alongside, and I here learnt, according to the 
 news from Europe, we had been reported as massacred either by 
 the Massais or the Somalis. 
 
 " How do matters stand in Europe ? Is there peace there or 
 war ? " I continued. 
 
 " No war." 
 
 " Has anything of importance in Europe taken interchange 
 place .P" •'*'^'^'- 
 
 " Nothing that we know of." 
 
 " How are things looking in the East African colony P " 
 
 " The road to Bagamoyo is free, so far as the Arabs are con- 
 cerned, but threatened by bands of robbers. Om' Dangers of 
 last letter-carrier was attacked between Usongo and letter-carry- 
 Massali, so that we are almost entirely without news 
 from the coast." 
 
 " What is the state of Usukuma P " 
 
 " Food is to be had there, but the Arabs from Morgo 
 threaten the Europeans." 
 
 " Have you any news of the Arabs in Karague, to whom we 
 are now going ? " 
 
 " No, we have always encamped on the islands, for fear of 
 their attacks." 
 
 " We wish to spend to-night in Baale. Will you not go with 
 us thither, that .we may make one camp of it ? " 
 
 " We much regret that we cannot do so, but we must reach 
 Sesse to-day, as we are the bearers of important tidings for 
 Monseigneur." 
 
 " Then it is true that Monseigneur returns to Europe ? " ^ 
 
 " Yes, we are now taking to him the order for his recall." 
 
 " Then I shall be able to travel with him. I shall expect 
 him at Nyayesi." 
 
 This dialogue was carried on half in shouts, owing to the 
 roughness of the lake. 
 
4o8 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 ]M_V boat now moved off to give Herr von Tiedemann the 
 opportunity of putting a few questions to the gentlemen. In ten 
 „ , . minutes more we had concluded this conversation on 
 
 Conclusion 
 
 of the inter-Lake Victoria, which had taken place under such unusual 
 
 view. 
 
 cuTumstances. 
 
 " Greeting to the gentlemen in Sesse and Uganda." 
 
 " Greeting to our brethren in Usukuma." 
 
 The sail was now hoisted, and we separated on our different 
 ways towards north and south. The sun was just setting, and 
 tinted the bays in the west with glowing red. Presently we 
 rowed past places from which smoke ascended. I gave orders to 
 land, but was informed that we were not far from Baale, and 
 would find provisions there. 
 
 So we continued our voyage by moonlight. At eight o'clock 
 
 our boats grated on the sand. Here, as everywhere along Lake 
 
 Victoria, the coast extends flat and shelving very 
 
 Flat shores . ,. 
 
 of Lake gradually into the water, and the boatmen are obliged 
 to jump into the water and drag the boats a long dis- 
 tance. In fact, the entire lake, which occupies an area about 
 equal to that of the kingdom of Bavaria, is rather flat-shored, 
 and this accounts for the rapid formation of waves at every 
 sudden squall. The whole is volcanic ground. The island 
 groups in the south are, as a rule, nothing more than the edges 
 of craters. It is said that similar crater ridges, forming hidden 
 reefs, exist in some parts under the waters, rendering navigation 
 dangerous. Keelless steamers of light draught are therefore 
 advisable on Lake Victoria, but they should be decked and 
 solidly constructed, to resist sudden squalls and dashing waters. 
 On my arrival in Baale I had only eleven boats with me. 
 The others, unable to breast the waves, had remained, as I 
 Arrival heard later, to the north at Bujaju. A walk of five 
 in Baale. mi^utes from the shore, through woods and maize fields, 
 brought us to the village of Baale, where I had the tents pitched, 
 and quartered the people in the huts. As usual, I placed sentries 
 near the boats. A few fowls were soon procured and put into 
 the pot, so that by ten o'clock we were able to enjoy a hot meal. 
 Our diet was still very good, as we had brought rice with us 
 
DUMO AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 45& 
 
 from Uganda, and bananas were to be had everywhere. I had 
 taught my Somali chef, Hussein, the culinary art. He 
 understood how to prepare really good soup and to th?exp''ert 
 roast meat to my satisfaction. There is no fear of ''°°''' 
 uncleanliness with the Somalis ; they are patterns of cleanliness. 
 T intended spending the next day at Baale, to wait for the 
 coming up of the other boats ; but as I was told, about noon, 
 that they had been seen on the horizon making southwards, I 
 gave orders to start, hoping to reach Dumo on that start for 
 day, April 1st. This place is known from Stanley's """"'■ 
 descriptions of his travels, and, as he relates, he had thought of 
 passing through it this time on his return from Lake Albert. 
 Stanley might have fearlessly gone thither. Sweet peace reigned 
 here, and, as the Christian party were always in possession of 
 boats, he would most likely have been able to collect a flotilla 
 with which to cross the lake to Usukuma. 
 
 We arrived at Dumo by sunset. The place is situated on a 
 little bay amidst fields, which we reach, as at Baale, by going 
 through a marshy and wooded tract. Dumo is small. Description 
 On April 1st it was deserted. This made a melan- "^^ii™''- 
 choly and somewhat discouraging impression upon me. But the 
 evening, when we partook of our meal by moonlight in the open 
 air, passed in lively conversation, and a deep sleep fortified us 
 for the following day. In the morning the lake was rough, and 
 the waves showed white crests, and my Sesse people had no 
 inclination to put to sea ; but I ordered them to do so, and 
 though we got wet through, we reached Sango about three 
 o'clock in the afternoon. The place is picturesquely situated 
 on the summit of a hill, visible from afar, and lying to the north 
 of the mouth of the Kagera. From thence an exquisite view is 
 obtained across the mountains of Ankore or Busagalla. Here I 
 had to collect my whole fleet, as the next day would bring us 
 already to Busiba. Of the remainder of my own people I had 
 seen nothing for three days, and was beginning to feel waiting for 
 a little uneasy about the matter. Meanwhile -we*^*^^*- 
 installed ourselves comfortably in our tents, in the midst of an 
 upland furnished with banana trees. Food was here brought to 
 
460 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 US in abundance, and ^ye could thoroughly take our ease. To 
 my great joy, the boats under Nugula's command arrived in the 
 evening ^yith a great shouting from the crews, and I learnt that 
 all my people were on the way. 
 
 On the shore at the foot of the hill, upon which, slightly 
 inland, stands Sango, a varied and lively activity was now 
 sango and manifested. In all ninety-three boats, manned by more 
 the fleet. ^Yi^iW two thousand men, were here assembled. The 
 line of camp-fires looked like the lights of a town. Food was 
 being everywhere sought for, and joyous songs resounded, first 
 from one camp-fire and then from another, and T looked forward 
 to the events the coming day might bring with the greatest 
 interest. 
 
 Early in the morning we were under weigh, in the hope, if 
 possible, of reaching by noontide Tabaliro, one of the islands 
 of Busiba, in front of the mainland, to the south of the mouth 
 The River of the Kagera. "We had a fine view of this river, 
 Kagera. -which, in great breadth and fulness, throws itself here 
 into the lake. At this spot a row of strange, conical rocks rises 
 out of the water. They are mostly tenanted by birds only. 
 The largest of these islands is the fertile and thickly-populated 
 Tabaliro, which we reached at two o'clock. The inhabitants of 
 this island were followers of Karema, and under the influence of 
 Kimbulus. 
 
 Here my work was to begin. Immediately on my landing 
 with twenty boats, in advance of my fleet, I called together 
 the chiefs of the tribes to hold a council. These are quite 
 a different race from the Waganda of the north. The men 
 A confer ^^® clothed in short coats made of straw, and carry 
 ence with a short spear and lance, bow and arrow ; the women 
 
 +jip diififs 
 
 wear long petticoats of straw, and look like walking 
 brooms. The people have the unmistakable air of true 
 savages. I was the more interested in them as here, for 
 the first time, we had come within the domain of German 
 interests. I let them know who we were and what was our 
 business. 
 
 " I come in the name of Muanga, the king of Uganda. 
 
A^]'O^^G THE wasiba. 
 
 461 
 
 You are to recognise him as tlie Mfalme of Uganda, and pay 
 liim the trilnite that yon owe him. Yon must drive the Arahs 
 
 Wasiba of the Island of Tabalieo. 
 
 out of vonr c.mntry. If you do this yon sliall have peace ; if 
 you will not do it, I shall make war upon you." 
 
 It struck me that these people were less submissive 
 
 than 
 
402 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I Avas accustomed to find the natives. I dismissed them, with 
 the order to meet together in the morning, when we would 
 hold a conference on these matters. 
 
 As several of my boats were visible on the horizon, I entered 
 the village, where I intended, after turning out the inhabitants, 
 to quarter myself. But I soon learnt that the people were 
 preparing to make an attack upon us during the night. I 
 An anxious preferred, therefore, to encamp, with my people, close 
 °^&'''' to the shore in the vicinity of the boats, so we 
 returned thither. The tents were then pitched, and soon, for 
 the first time on German ground, the German flag waved 
 merrily in the breeze over the glorious bay. On its shores 
 boat after boat discharged its occupants, and in a short time 
 the coast was covered with the long-beaked craft. To show the 
 people of Busiba that we were not in the habit of being 
 kept waiting by black men, I directed that all cattle in sight 
 should be driven together and taken possession of, and 
 threatened the people that if they did not submit by the 
 evening I would fire the neighbouring villages. 
 
 " I have been informed that you are going to make war 
 upon us to-night, and believe that you are foolish enough to 
 do so ; but you shall learn to know us. If you choose war with 
 
 ■warnin ^^' ^°^ °^® °^ ^^^ ^^^ Bscape with his life. You see 
 to the that your herds are already in my possession, and soon 
 
 you shall see the flames rising from the roofs of your 
 homes. Therefore decide. Will you recognise Muanga as your 
 king, or die ? " 
 
 " We will acknowledge Muanga and thee as our masters, 
 and we will have nothing to do with the Arabs," was the 
 answer ; but all that evening I received contradictory reports 
 from Nugula and other Waganda. At one time it was that the 
 Wasiba were prepared to fall upon us ; then again, when I was 
 about to go at them, I was appeased by being entreated to wait 
 Reply of ^^°^^^ *^^ morning. Accordingly, I had a good Avatch 
 the kept for the night, and waited for morning to come. 
 
 In the early morning came Nugula, accompanied by 
 the heads of. the tribes, to tell me that all had been arranged 
 
THE LETTER OF PERE LOURDEL. 463 
 
 between them. The Wasiba had submitted to Muanga, and 
 would pay the tribute demanded by him, and indeed they would 
 collect it that very morning. They said that Kimbuku and 
 Mtatemboa, the leaders of the English party on the mainland 
 opposite, had fled a few days previously on hearing of improved 
 our approach. There was, therefore, now no question p^^^p*"*^' 
 of a war, and he, Nugula, was prepared, if I so willed it, to 
 carry on the further business alone. 
 
 This communication was confirmed the following day, in 
 another part of Busiba, by the arrival of a letter from Mons. 
 Lourdel, dated March 31st. It ran as follows : — 
 
 " BiEN CHER MoNsiEUE, — Le roi Muanga me charge de vous 
 informer que Mtatemboa, I'un des chefs tributaires, chez qui 
 vous devez passer, s'est sauve avec une partie de son monde par 
 crainte de votre passage. Le roi Muanga vous prie de passer 
 par le milieu du pays de Mtatemboa, afin de frapper d'avantage 
 de crainte les gens du pays. Je pense que vous n'aurez rien k 
 craindre en passant par I'Uziba. 
 
 " Vous ferez bien de briiler la capitale de Mtatemboa et de 
 le faire disparaitre et mettre un des fils a sa place." 
 
 (TEANSLATIOX.) 
 
 " Very dear Sir, — King Muanga desires me to inform you 
 that Mtatemboa, one of the tributary chiefs, through whose 
 territory you are about to travel, has fled with some ofpereiour- 
 his people out of fear of your passage. King Muanga *^^'°^^"^''" 
 begs you to traverse the centre of Mtatemboa's country, to strike 
 with all the greater fear the people of the land. I do not think 
 you have anything to dread in passing through Uziba. 
 
 " You will do well to set fire to Mtatemboa's capital, to cause 
 him to disappear, and to set up one of his sons in his place." 
 
 The turn matters had taken was a most welcome one to us, 
 as it relieved us of the necessity of fighting once more upon the 
 west coast of Lake Victoria for what, after all, were foreign 
 interests, against foes of whose strength we were not in a position 
 
464 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 to estimate. Had I received Mons. Lourdel's letter before leav- 
 ing Sesse I should certainly have carried out Muanga's wish that 
 I should burn the capital of the fugitive Mtatemboa. As it was, 
 the letter only reached me at Bukoba, when we had left that 
 district far behind us ; and as the report that the entire 
 couseauent party of the Arabs in the country had everywhere taken 
 on the news. ^^ flight On hearing of our approach, proved correct, 
 I thought it best, in view of my small supply of ammunition, 
 and being ignorant of what might still be before me in the 
 German colony, to desist from a pursuit into the unknown west. 
 I therefore contented myself with carrying out to the letter the 
 commission I had undertaken in Uganda, namely, to bring the 
 Wasiba into subjection to Muanga and to collect the tribute for 
 couection him. This I did on April 4th at Tabaliro, and after- 
 of tribute, ^^ards at Bukoba, where I stayed one day for the purpose. 
 I was still less inclined to make an adventurous raid upon the 
 west that was unknown to me after receiving a letter at Tabaliro 
 from Monseigneur Livinhac, describing the situation in the south 
 of the lake, from which I was forced to conclude that there also 
 the German Emin Pasha Expedition would have to fight its way. 
 The letter ran as follows : — 
 
 " Been cher Docteue, — II est vrai que je suis rappele en 
 Europe par mes superieurs. Je vais faire mon possible pour 
 vous rejoindre au sud de Lac et profiter de Foflfre gracieuse que 
 vous m'avez faite de me prendre sous votre drapeau. Le cour- 
 Letter from rier qui a apporte nos dernieres lettres a ete attaque 
 neu^Lmn- ^^^re Usougo et Masali. Presque toutes nos lettres et 
 ^ao. nos journaux ont ete perdus, ce qui fait que nous 
 
 sommes toujours sans nouvelles. Le P. Schynse m'ecrit de 
 Zanzibar. La Caravane Stanley-Emin y arrivait heureuse- 
 ment -d la fin de Novembre. La route est ouverte et le 
 pavilion allemand flotte partout depuis Mpwapwa jusqu'a 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 " Je vous prie de vous arreter a Nyagezi, oii vous trouverez 
 une grande maison pour vous loger convenablement vous et 
 vos hommes. De la au Bukumbi il n'y a que trois heures de 
 
MONSEIGNEUR LIVINHAC'S LETTER. 465 
 
 marche. Les quelques Arabes qui se trouvent ii Masawza (golfe 
 de Speke) font ce qu'ils peuvent pour indisposer les populations 
 •contre les blancs. Yotre arrivee les rendra plus polls, j'espere. 
 " Au plaisir de vous revoir bientot et de voyager avec vous. 
 " En attendant ce plaisir je vous prie d'agreer I'expression 
 des sentiments de profond respect et de haute consideration avec 
 lesquels je suis 
 
 "Votre affectionne, 
 
 "Leon Livinhac, 
 
 " Sup. des Miss, d' Alger." 
 (TRANSLATION.) 
 
 " Very dear Doctor, — It is true that I am recalled to 
 Europe by my superiors. I shall do my utmost to join you 
 south of the lake, and to avail myself of your kind oflfer to take 
 me under your flag. The messenger who brought us our last 
 letters was attacked between Osongo and Masali. Almost all 
 our letters and newspapers were lost, so that we are still with- 
 out news. Father Schynse writes to me from Zanzibar. The 
 Stanley-Emin caravan arrived there safely at the end of 
 November. The road is open, and the German flag waves 
 ■everywhere from Mpuapua to Zanzibar. 
 
 " I beg you will stop at Nyagezi, where you will find a large 
 house to lodge you suitably, you and your men. It is only a 
 three hours' march from thence to Bukumbi. The few Arabs 
 who are at Masawza (Speke's Gulf) are doing all in their power 
 to set the inhabitants against the whites. I hope your arrival 
 will have the effect of making them more polite. 
 
 " Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you again, 
 .and of travelling with you, I beg you will accept the expression 
 of the sentiments of profound respect and consideration with 
 
 which I am 
 
 " Yours affectionately, 
 
 "Leon Livinhac, 
 
 " ,Sup. of the Miss, of Algiers'' 
 
 Taking into consideration that for the repeating guns we 
 
 30 
 
466 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 had scarcely forty cartridges per man left, and that the 
 ammunition for muzzle and breech-loaders had like- 
 the'exp"edi- wise dwindled considerably, it will be readily un- 
 *"""■ derstood why, on receiving the above intelligence, 
 I confined myself to simply fulfilling what I had undertaken 
 to do. 
 
 On April 4th, when all was in order, and Nugula declared 
 
 that I might leave the rest to him, I quitted Tabaliro at 
 
 from'^ ^^^ eight in the evening, and travelled further south, with 
 
 Tabahro. ^^^ intention of reducing the mainland of Busiba also to 
 
 submission. 
 
 Night passages upon Lake Victoria are vastly preferable to 
 those undertaken in the dazzling sun, when the reflection of its 
 rays from the water mercilessly burns the skin, and the heat 
 becomes unbearable if we strive, by covering ourselves up, to 
 Pleasures of protect oursclvcs against them. At night it is cool ; 
 the passage, ^j^g ^^y^ divest oueself of the troublesome sun helmet, 
 and recline at ease in an armchair. The moon stands bright 
 in the heavens, illuminating, with her gentle light, the land to 
 the right and the mysterious surface of the lake. Far off in 
 the east tower, like a strong wall, heavy thunder-clouds, in 
 which the lightning quivers and flashes incessantly ; but above 
 our heads it is clear, and only, like the phantoms of a dream, 
 a light cloud passes from time to time over the face of the 
 moon. All nature lies in peaceful repose around us, and 
 the soul is absorbed in contemplation of the great mystery of 
 the Universe. Like panting horses in a race, our boats fly along, 
 side by side, with the rapidity of arrows, past dark inlets and 
 fantastically jutting points of land, clothed with primeval woods, 
 and stretching precipitately down to the water's edge. My men 
 are asleep, and no sound is audible save the loud breathing of 
 the boatmen and the measured beat of the oars. Involuntarily 
 our thoughts fly homewards to the dear ones in Germany ; 
 night bridges over the barriers of space. Thus we travel 
 onwards through the night till towards the morning. From 
 time to time we glide by small islands, rising out of the water 
 on the left. 
 
-1 STORM IN EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 4G7 
 
 I had intended travelling as far as Biikoba that night, Inir 
 towards three o'clock the thnnderclonds from the east spread 
 above us, squalls of wind set in, and we considered ourselves 
 
 ibrtunate that au' \^ere 
 enabled, by the greatest 
 exertions of the boatmen, 
 to reach the Bay . 
 
 • An ap- 
 of Makonga just proacMng 
 , ,. ' ' storm. 
 
 Iietore the storm 
 came rattling down upon 
 us. Tlie tents were rapidly 
 pitched, and the baggage 
 hurriedly deposited in 
 them. Whilst the light- 
 ning flashed, the thunder 
 rolk'd, and heavy rain came 
 down, I made myself com- 
 tbrtable in one of the 
 liouses of the village, where my Somalis were quartered. Foi" 
 my column I had still at my disposal thirty-three Ijoats, aud the 
 smaller ones, which were behind, had taken refuge where they 
 
 Voyage along the Coast of r.u.siBA. 
 
468 NE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 could along the coast. In the morning, passing hy Makonga, 
 they proceeded earlier than ourselves direct to Bukoba, where 
 the meeting-place had been appointed. 
 
 Before starting for that place I had to inflict a mild punish- 
 ment on my servant Buana Mku. On the previous 
 Mku'smis- evening I had put aside from my supper half a fowl, 
 ijehaviour. ^jj^^j^ j ^^^ asked him to set before me that I 
 
 might finish it. 
 
 " The half fowl ? " said Buana Mku. " Why, you ate that 
 up yesterday evening," he continued, with a bold front, fancying 
 that I had forgotten all about the affair. 
 
 My servants might have had half a fowl, and welcome, as 
 there was no lack of provisions, but the audacity of lying thus 
 Summary to my face iuduced me once more to teach Buana Mku 
 punishment. ^j^a,t it is best to stick to the truth in all the circum- 
 stances of life. Twenty-five lashes caused him to incline more 
 and more to this opinion. 
 
 We then set off for Bukoba, which we reached after a pas- 
 ., , , , sase of two or three hours. On the left, opposite the 
 
 Island of '^ . p -n • 
 
 Bukerebe, Bay of Bukoba, the little island oi Bukerebe rises 
 picturesquely from the water. To the south are 
 grouped a few more small islands ; they are all deserted. As 
 the Waganda have taken possession of the whole lake, the in- 
 habitants prefer to settle in the interior of the country, to avoid 
 being continually molested by passing fleets from Uganda. 
 Bukoba is the chief point of southern Busiba. From here I 
 was told Karague could be reached in three stages. I gave 
 orders to have the camp pitched upon a green meadow, about 
 twenty-five feet above the level of the lake, commanding an 
 exquisite view of the bay. High woods framed in the meadow 
 at the back. The whole formed a landscape of remarkable 
 beauty, and seemed, by its unique position, to invite the esta- 
 blishment of a station. Later on, in Mpuapua, I recommended 
 the spot to Emin Pasha for this purpose. It is the more 
 particularly suited for a station as provisions are to be had 
 in abundance in the neighbourhood, and the harbour offers 
 good anchorage for boats. 
 
THE SULTAN'S SUBMISSION j—BUJIBIDE. 469 
 
 Immediately on m}' arrival I sent Stephano, with some 
 soldiers, to the Sultan of the country, to summon him to a con- 
 ference. He had no desire to be on unfriendly terms The suitan 
 with us, and at once sent considerable tribute offerings, summoned, 
 both for the men and for ourselves. As a return gift, I sent him 
 in the evening some gunpowder, pieces of stuff, and a few finger- 
 rings, and again, on the following day, received from him three 
 oxen for slaughtering, a flock of sheep and goats, as well as 
 milk and honey in abundance. The Sultan, who, on the first 
 day, had sent his sons to welcome me, himself appeared on the 
 second day, a Sunday, to offer his submission. He promises of 
 promised most unequivocally to pay the tribute de- submission, 
 manded by Muanga so soon as Nugula should arrive with his 
 boats for the purpose of collecting it. Here, too, my task was 
 now fulfilled, and I spent a most happy Sunday afternoon on 
 April 6th. 
 
 It was Easter Sunday, and the spirit of Easter pervaded our 
 hearts. The moon was full that evening, and we conversed 
 together in front of my tent until late into the night. ^ 
 
 We were awakened early next day by a downpour Easter 
 of rain, which lasted the whole morning, and pre- 
 vented our starting till towards noon. At one o'clock the sun 
 burst forth, and we set forth, hoping to reach the island of 
 Bumbide (called by Stanley Bumbiie) that evening. Here 
 Stanley had experienced " the day ol terror in Bumbire," as 
 he calls it, on which the natives wanted to drag him out of his 
 boat by the ears, and threatened him with death ; a island of 
 fate which he only escaped by rapid flight. From B^'^i'i*^- 
 here he hastened back towards the south, to the island he calls 
 " Refuge Island " (Banderema), lying opposite Soswa. 
 
 I was most curious to make the acquaintance of the wild 
 tribes that had inspired a Stanley with such fear. 
 
 Towards seven o'clock in the evening the high shores of 
 Bumbide showed themselves straight in front of us. For an 
 hour we rowed parallel with them, in a southerly direction. 
 On landing at eight o'clock we went up a steep incline, 
 upon which villages were scattered. Who shall describe my 
 
470 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 astonishment at discovering an inoffensive, timid people, who 
 eagerly strove to anticipate all our wishes, immediately turned 
 . out of their dwellings for us, lent a hand in pitching our 
 
 ness of the teuts, and brought in as much food as was to be had 
 na ives. ^.^ ^^^ island ! It struck me these people must have 
 changed considerably since Stanley's first visit, and this idea 
 was in no way altered during my further stay on the island. 
 
 The following morning was wet again, as usual, and I was 
 unable to start until noon for the most southern of the three 
 Bumbide islands, which I reached in the evening. Here the 
 camp had to be crowded into a small space on the shore, which 
 was unpleasant, as I had between nine hundred and a thousand 
 men with me. The evenings were now very enjoyable for us, 
 as we were provided with the materials for lighting, which I had 
 devised in Uganda, namely, a large earthenware pot filled with 
 grease, into which we stuck three or four wicks, which were set 
 alight, and lit up the darkness with a flickering radiance. This 
 Avas all the more convenient as the moon, upon whose light we 
 had hitherto depended, was nightly on the wane. 
 
 On the morning of April 9th I climbed the steep ascent of 
 Bumbide, to gain a view over the lake and the surrounding 
 View of landscape. Far away to the south-east a speck was 
 lake pointed out to me as being Soswa, the destination of 
 
 Victoria (~> ^ 
 
 our voyage for to-day. To the south extended a whole 
 circle- of islands, which partially veiled the south-west side of 
 Lake Victoria from view, yet not sufficiently to prevent our 
 being able to follow the line of the coast behind them. My 
 people informed me this was the land of Usindja, extending 
 along the south-west of the lake. I returned in joyful mood to 
 the camp, for to-day would see the end of our southern course, 
 and we were to turn to the east. 
 
 We set off at about eight o'clock, and pursued our journey 
 at first still in a southward direction. Then on reaching the 
 Course to- ^^^^^^ ^^' Rubili, where some of the people hoped to be 
 wards allowed to encamp, I gave the order to turn to the 
 
 east, towards boswa. It was a wonderfully fine after- 
 noon. The air was clear, and we could see far into the 
 
VOLCANIC TRACTS :~ENCAMPMENT OF SOSWA. 471 
 
 ■distance. The group of islands we left behind us on the south, 
 whose circular wreath towards the north is formed by the 
 Bumbide islands, looked picturesque and even strange, and 
 led the mind to reflections as to their origin. On this after- 
 noon T recognised more than ever that the region of Lake 
 Victoria was one of powerful volcanic activity. Everywhere 
 along the lake I could discover traces of the water volcanic 
 having retreated, and at Ukumbi I learnt from Mon- ""^^^^ °^ 
 seigneur Hirth that the water continued to rise during victoria, 
 a period of seventeen years, and then fell again during an equal 
 cycle of seventeen years. Whether this would lead to the 
 conclusion that the bed of Lake Victoria is subject to periodical 
 shocks, I am unable to say, but am inclined to conjecture that 
 this is the case. In like manner, although in longer periods of 
 time, the shores and beds of oceans rise and fall. If these 
 regular alternations in the level of the waters really take place, 
 they can hardly be explained in any other way. 
 
 These were my reflections on April 9th, as we made for the 
 island of Soswa, which became visible on the distant horizon. 
 The sun went down, but Soswa was not yet reached. Our 
 flotilla had long disappeared behind us ; only Herr von Tiede- 
 mann's boat, my own, and a third one, kept an equal speed. It 
 was nine o'clock when we came abreast of the foremost ite soswa 
 of the Soswa isles. It was covered with primeval forest, i^i^^ids- 
 and the wind, which had risen, dashed the waves with -a weird 
 sound against the wall of rock. We passed by several islands, 
 bearing through a sort of canal, until at last, when it was already 
 ten o'clock at night, we landed upon a rocky and inhospitable 
 shore in the south of one of them. Pushing through low brush- 
 wood, we succeeded in reaching an open declivity, where we 
 could pitch our tents. I established the men in some^^^.^.^.^^ 
 dilapidated huts, such as the Waganda have everywhere encamp- 
 prepared for their night encampment on their voyages. 
 They were primitive straw huts, but offered protection from the 
 inclemency of the weather. Many of my men, amongst them 
 all the Somalis, had become seasick on the passage. Had it 
 been necessary to fight just then we should have fared but badly. 
 
472 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 That night another terrible thunderstorm, with \yind and 
 heavy rain, broke upon us, rendering the tent, with its project- 
 ing roof, highly dangerous, while the violent gusts threatened 
 every moment to carry it away. We obtained but little sleep, 
 but on the following morning the golden sun smiled once more 
 upon the glorious lake, whose southern shores were now before 
 our eyes, and cheerfulness reigned around, when at eight 
 
 Arrival . ,- j>ii-i 
 
 of missing o'clock it was anuouuced that some oi the lagging boats 
 of the previous evening had already passed Soswa in the 
 early hours of the morning, on their way to Bandelundo, where 
 it was our intention to encamp that day. At once I gave the 
 order for the boats moored at Soswa to start, eleven of them 
 having come in during the night. 
 
 If our encampment in Soswa had been inhospitable and 
 comfortless, we were richly compensated in Bandelundo. Here 
 Encam ^^^ ^feve able to set up our encampment on level ground, 
 ment in beneath the shadow of a huge cotton tree. The sun 
 ' shone bright. There was a sufficiency of provisions at 
 hand, as we still had with us some of the sheep from the Massai 
 flocks, and grain that we had brought from Sesse. 
 
 Thus we passed a pleasant afternoon and evening at 
 Bandelundo, cheered by the knowledge that the voyage, which 
 gradually began to become very wearisome, would, please God, 
 in two days be at an end. 
 
 All these small islands have a very singular appearance, as 
 they are very rocky, and often form the quaintest shapes. They 
 generally rise sharp and white out of the blue water, conjuring 
 A quiet up fantastic ideas in the mind, especially in the moon- 
 journey. light. We Continued to steer past groups or separate 
 islands, which gave the mind cause for reflections of various 
 kinds. But the charm of novelty had vanished from our 
 passage. As a rule, I used to open my umbrella, and take up 
 to read, out of our little library, some volume that had not 
 been too often studied before. Just then I was once more read- 
 ing Bulwer's " Last Days of Pompeii," and, in truth, surroundings 
 more calculated to bring before the mind the events in sunny 
 Pompeii could scarcely be imagined. That day we ran to the 
 
THE ISLANDS OF KURU AND DJUMA. 473 
 
 island of Kuru, situated opposite to Kome, whose inhabitants 
 alone have been successful in resisting the Waganda, Arrival at 
 and consequently live in bitter enmity with them. We ^°^^- 
 saw cattle at Kome and the smoke of hut fires. I would gladly 
 have sent across to get food from thence, as the corn for my 
 men was beginning to run low, but I had no stuffs to offer in 
 payment, and it went against my conscience to attack a tribe, 
 whose bravery and independence, in the face of the dreaded 
 Waganda, I could not but recognise and admire in secret. 
 
 The shore of Kuru, by which we encamped, is very stony, 
 and it was with difficulty that a place was found where Tiede- 
 mann and I could pitch our tents. We knew that on ^ 
 
 ^ Encamp- 
 
 the following day we could reach Nyagesi, the French ment at 
 Mission station, and were consequently in a very excited 
 state of mind as we sat after supper drinking our tea by the light 
 of our primitive lamp. In Nyagesi, we were told, there was a fine 
 dwelling-house, and we were even dazzled with the prospect of a 
 room on the first floor. Besides, we had been told at comforts of 
 Sesse, that European tobacco was to be had there, and ei'^^ii^atioii. 
 that after months of abstinence we could once more indulge in 
 a glass of cognac and water. All this excited the imagination 
 to joyous anticipation, and it was eleven o'clock when, in high 
 spirits, M'e retired to bed. 
 
 In the morning we continued our voyage, passing first along 
 by the island of Kome, and then by the mainland, which in the 
 south-west stood out every moment more sharply and distinctly. 
 Once more the weather was glorious, and at twelve o'clock we 
 passed the island of Djuma, where Stephano proposed to me 
 again to set up our camp, which I, however, declined to do. We 
 then turned south-eastwards, and now the shores to the nj^ma and 
 left, leading in the direction of the creek of Ukumbi, ^^™''^' 
 became more and more distinctly visible. We could distinctly 
 perceive that we were approaching the end of our voyage on the 
 lake ; but the whole afternoon passed away before we reached the 
 entrance to the sound. At about half-past five we rowed by the 
 marvellously shaped south-west corner of the entrance, and noticed 
 to our left the peculiar, skittle-shaped granitic rocks and basalt 
 
474 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 formations which lend to the coast of Usukuma such an original 
 character. In the middle of the somid rises a steep little island, 
 covered with primeval forest, which we left on our right. We 
 approached nearer and nearer to the eastern side of the sound, 
 where the settlements and iires of the Wasukuma could be seen. 
 The oarsmen were extremely exhausted by the exertions of the 
 last few days, but now they once more put forth all their 
 strength, and with a cheerful singing of songs we approached the 
 spot where, in the twilight, the outlines of the Roman 
 
 Catholic o J 
 
 Hissionof Catholic Missiou of Nyagesi were pointed out to me. 
 yagesi. J g^QQjj ^j^ ^jjg hows of the boat, expectantly awaiting 
 the moment of arrival and the meeting with the brethren of the 
 Mission. We approached the shore, passing by wonderful for- 
 mations of rock. The boat ran in ; I jumped out, and was 
 accosted from the darkness with words of greeting certainly 
 spoken in a strong Alsatian accent. 
 
 " Welcome to you, gentlemen ! I am astonished to see you 
 so soon. Your coming has already been announced to me by a 
 A welcome letter from Monseigneur Livinhac. I am Monseigneur 
 in German, jjirtt^ and I presume that I am addressing Dr. Peters." 
 
 I called out joyfully, " Good evening ! It is indeed a glad 
 surprise to me to be greeted here in the German tongue. Herr 
 von Tiedemann will be here directly ; his boat is immediately 
 behind mine." 
 
 My words were presently fulfilled ; and so we strode onward 
 together, through fields of maize and kitchen gardens, towards the 
 large square yard surrounded by buildings, on the left of which the 
 brightly lighted rooms of the priests' dwelling of the missionary 
 station of Nyagesi gleamed a hospitable welcome upon us. We 
 traversed a long corridor, and Monseigneur Hirth ushered Herr von 
 Tiedemann and myself to the separate dormitories that had been 
 prepared for us. After a hasty toilet, we repaired to Monseigneur 
 Hirth's sitting-room, where Pere Guyaut and the Brother of the 
 station were introduced to us. I handed over the letters 
 
 A sumptu- 
 ous civilised from Uganda, after reading which Monseigneur Hirth 
 
 bade us welcome once again. We were then conducted 
 
 to the refectory, where we found awaiting us what was, according 
 
PROSPECTS OF RETURN— NEWS FROM EUROPE. 475 
 
 to our ideas, a right royal meal. First came a vegetable soup, 
 prepared in the French fashion ; next came fish, potatoes, bread, 
 kohl-rabi, beetroot and cabbage, roast mutton and fricassee of 
 fowl ; then, as a concluding course, cheese, butter, and fruit, 
 with which we drank cool banana wine, the whole feast wind- 
 ing up with a small glass of clear banana spirit. Who could 
 blame us if our mood was a very excited and merry one ? 
 Behind us lay the dangers and discomforts of the Victoria 
 JN^yanza, and we now were actually upon the soil of the German 
 East African colony. Our return to the coast and to our homes, 
 which hitherto appeared as a dream in the hazy distance, became 
 from that day a fact upon which we could once more practically 
 reckon, and our thoughts were duly directed to the future. 
 True, I had still many cares before me. Considering „ 
 
 •' , '^ Hopes and 
 
 the treatment I had experienced since the beginning of antioipa- 
 the expedition, I had to be prepared to encounter fresh 
 difficulties of a similar kind, so soon as I should reach the 
 territories adjoining the coast. But my nerves had been braced 
 by what now lay behind us, and I had long accustomed myself, 
 when new difficulties and dangers arose in our path, to apply 
 to ourselves the old saying, -^ I think we also can bear this 
 like men." 
 
 In holiday mood, I awoke the next day in a whitewashed 
 bedroom. In Nyagesi, in the library of P^re Schynse, I had 
 come upon a number of German and French papers, though 
 they certainly only came down as far as the previous August, 
 amongst others the German Colonial newspaper and News from 
 the Mouvement Geographique, of Brussels, in which ^"™p*- 
 we read the first account, though in a very distorted and in- 
 correct form, of our landing at Kwaihu Bay. I rose, according 
 to my custom, before six o'clock, and seated myself, in the quiet 
 peace of that Sunday dawn, in the cloister of the station, giving 
 m3'self up to peaceful reflection. 
 
 At six o'clock the Mission bell rang for service, and I too 
 bent my spirit in humility before God, who had safely led us 
 hither through all dangers and difficulties. We then met in. 
 the refectory for a sumptuous breakfast, after which I wrote 
 
476 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 reports to Germany, which were to be forwarded at once next 
 Reports for niorning to the coast by express messengers, namely, 
 home. jj^y t^yo porters, Farialla and Pemba Moto. I was the 
 more anxious to send these despatches as quickly as might be, 
 as further details had been made known to me in Nyagesi 
 respecting our reported collapse, and I was ignorant whether 
 our relatives in Germany had been already reassured as to our 
 position, by later information. Therefore I wrote a report of 
 some length to the German Emin Pasha Expedition committee, 
 and to the German Colonial Company. As the first of these 
 reports is characteristic of my state of mind on that day, I give 
 it here, although extracts from it were published some time 
 since in the German Colonial Gasette : — ■ 
 
 " I am told here, on my arrival in Usukuma, that it has 
 been reported in Europe our expedition had failed, and that I 
 myself was dead. The remark has been added, that this was 
 Real con- just what had been predicted, for all the world knew 
 tife Massai that it would be impossible to pass through the Massai 
 country, couutry with an expedition such as mine ; that I had 
 voluntarily rushed to my ruin, etc., etc. I beg the honourable 
 committee kindly to allow me to make the following remarks, in 
 all humility : — 
 
 "1. Firstly, being on the spot, I was probably in a better 
 
 position than our critics in Europe, or on the coast, to judge of 
 
 the possibility or impossibility of accomplishing my expedition 
 
 with the means at my disposal. It was never my intention to 
 
 endanger, like a madman, the lives of those entrusted 
 
 A small D J > 
 
 column to my care. If, nevertheless, I pushed forward with 
 my small column, it was because I did not consider the 
 obstacles in our path to be insurmountable, despite all the talk 
 that was made about them ; and the result fully vindicated the 
 correctness of my view. 
 
 " 2. The difference between my estimate and that of others 
 regarding the difficulties to be encountered, simply lies in the 
 fact that I have but little belief in Arabs or Africans taking 
 the initiative, and therefore feel confident that a certain union 
 
'-Pk. 
 
 l/^ \'} 
 
 ~**k'. *+• 
 
CONDITIONS OF AFRICAN TRAVEL. 477 
 
 of prudence and quick resolve will carry one through. The 
 dangers of Massailand did not frighten me. The travellers who 
 tell us of them — Thomson and Dr. Fischer — never as- 
 
 1 1 , , Arabs and 
 
 sumed a resolute attitude towards these somewhat im- Africans un- 
 pudent sons of the wilderness, and therefore could not he *®p™*^^^®- 
 a,ccepted as authorities concerning the difficulties of this march. 
 In reality, these dangers are in nowise so formidable as people 
 say and believe, and my march through this territory, though I 
 had only about sixty or seventy men altogether, had nothing of 
 the conjurer about it, though not without its difficulties, and 
 though on certain days our situation was, to some extent, grave. 
 I sincerely hope that if our example be followed, the so-called 
 ' Massai dangers ' will in a short time be heard of no „ 
 
 ° . Massai 
 
 more. At any rate, there can be no question of my dangers ex- 
 havmg carelessly risked the lives entrusted to my 
 keeping, seeing that I was enabled pretty correctly to estimate 
 ■existing dangers ; and, as the result has shown, I did not under- 
 rate them. 
 
 "3. It appears to me that, in general, a host of prejudices 
 ■exist concerning African travel, which, in the interest of opening 
 out this quarter of the world, ought to be set aside as Africa to be 
 •quickly as possible. Foremost among these fallacies is "p*''^'^ ""*■ 
 the idea that it is necessary to start with a great quantity of 
 articles for barter, and a large number of porters, to penetrate 
 into Central Africa. As every porter consumes monthly, on an 
 average, the value of a ' doti ' and a half of stuff, it can soon 
 be calculated in what space of time he will have eaten up the 
 •equivalent of his load. If it should be thought that the larger 
 the number of men the greater the capability of resistance, I 
 can only say that, in this respect, everything depends upon 
 •organisation, and that a small force is more easily organised than 
 a large one. The Mgwagwana proper is cowardly, and by his 
 bad example demoralises the better-disposed elements of j^^^^^^^^.^ 
 the expedition. We have proofs of this in the Arab expe- of expe- 
 
 1 1 1 1. i ditions. 
 
 ■ditions, thousands of men strong, who have been beaten 
 
 by the Massais. The English expeditions in Eastern Africa that 
 
 advanced at the same time as I did, though they counted their 
 
478 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 hundreds, were not, I am convinced, nearly so well prepared for 
 fighting, or so capable of resistance, as mine, in which I knew 
 every man, and in which all were animated by one and the 
 Bribery to Same spirit. The danger of being too well supplied with 
 be avoided, articles for barter is, that these are sometimes used 
 to stave off fighting by paying tribute, which only lowers the 
 feeling of respect for the white race, and increases the simple 
 arrogance of the African. I shall be glad if a comparison 
 between the Emin Pasha Expedition and those undertaken by 
 others results in proving that I have never been guilty of this 
 cardinal fault. The result has also shown, that our expedition 
 has been respected, in all countries, in a manner becoming the 
 dignity of the European race. Even in these countries our 
 enemies prefer to take to flight at our approach, as, for example,. 
 , ^ in the west of the Nyanza the powerful Arab, Kimbulu,. 
 
 A resolute -' '^ ' _ _ ' 
 
 front to be who has oue hundred elephant-hunters, fled, with all his 
 following, whom I had undertaken to drive out of the 
 country. The tribes who wish to remain on friendly terms with 
 us have always been well treated. Without exception, we never 
 fought save when we were called upon to do so righteously, in 
 our own defence. 
 
 "4. In this way our expedition, although Emin had unfor- 
 tunately been previously obliged to quit his country, which is 
 ever to be regretted, has always been able to work in the spirit 
 Use of the ^^^^^ l^d US hither. It was reserved to the German 
 German Ex-Emin Pasha Expedition to explore the whole Tana. 
 
 pedition. . 
 
 territory, and Usoga also. We were enabled to conduct 
 Muanga and his party back to Uganda, and thus to erect in the 
 north of the Nyanza Lake a Christian barrier against Islam ; to 
 attach Uganda, by virtue of the Congo settlement and the prin- 
 Priucipies ciple of the suppression of the slave trade, to the half- 
 tianit^and civilised states of Africa, such as Zanzibar, and to clear 
 freedom, ^j^g Western coast of the Victoria Nyanza from Arab- 
 influence. This was mainly the object kept in view in our 
 movement for the countries of the Upper Nile, whereby we hoped 
 to further the culture and development of Central Africa, of 
 which we justly considered Emin Pasha as the pioneer. I believe 
 
PROSPECTS OF FUTURE EXPLORATION. 47& 
 
 that Europe generally will be inclined greatly to underrate the 
 importance of this Emin Pasha Expedition. But perhaps the far- 
 sighted will appreciate the moral influence which the advance 
 of so many expeditions for the rescue of one remarkable white 
 man must exercise over the whole of Central Africa. This fact 
 has stamped us in these countries as a superior race, and this is 
 a gain for all time. All honour to Stanley, to whom it 
 was reserved to conduct Emin Pasha back to the world acMeve- 
 of the white race.* But we, too, have been allowed to ™^° ^' 
 help to establish the conviction that the abandonment of the 
 position on the Upper Nile is only an episode, and that the word 
 ' Tutarudi' ('We shall return ') is still engraven on all 
 hearts. If Europe wishes to extend this conviction to be main- 
 over the entire north-eastern part of this portion of the *^'^* ' 
 globe, it would be desirable to send a strong expedition through 
 the lands of the Somalis and Gallas, in order to. impress these 
 stubborn tribes too with a sense of our superiority, and at 
 length to avenge the murder of Von der Decken. The explora- 
 tion of the entire Juba territory would be the geographical 
 outcome of this expedition, which is really demanded in our 
 time. Such an expedition, although undertaken from ^^^^ ^^ ^ 
 quite other ethical and geographical points of departure, new expe- 
 would naturally take up the views and, perhaps, too, the 
 geographical aims of the Emin Pasha Expedition, and thus 
 would be lifted the last fold of the veil of mystery that now 
 hangs over Eastern Africa. 
 
 "5. It appears to me, as I look back upon our own under- 
 takings, that the great struggle for Eastern Africa, which was 
 carried on there between Europeans and Arabs, has been decided 
 in our favour. The Arab rule has been worsted along the whole 
 line. This is due, in the first place, to the action of the German 
 Government by means of Captain ^Yissmann ; but Stanley, 
 Count Teleki, and ourselves may have contributed to the result. 
 Stanley, inasmuch as he defeated the tribes between the Congo 
 and Mwutan Rzige, as well as the ^Yanyero and Wanera ; Teleki^ 
 
 * So I still thought on April 13th, 1890. 
 
480 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 by overthrowing the Wakikuju and Wasuka ; and we, by de- 
 monstrating the superiority of European arms to the Wagalla, 
 
 Wadsagga, Wakikuju, and Massais, not to mention 
 already smaller tribes, supporting the Christian party in 
 
 Uganda, and breaking Arab influence in the west of 
 the lake, have worked for Christianity in Eastern and Central 
 Africa. Lastly, all these undertakings represent one great 
 general whole, and in this moral connection the German Emin 
 Pasha Expedition must be included. If it were looked upon in 
 this light, much of the former antagonism against this enter- 
 prise would vanish, and it would be allowed that, although 
 apparently the enterprise has failed in its object, it has not 
 laboured in vain in the service of the great moral ideas which 
 are at this moment struggling for realisation in Africa. 
 
 " I have the honour to sign myself, with unalterable respect, 
 the honourable committee's most devoted servant, 
 
 " Gael Petees. 
 
 " P.S. — I hope to be in Zanzibar by the end of June, and 
 to bring with us Monseigneur Livinhac, who has been appointed 
 Superior of the Mission at Algiers." 
 
 After these reports had been finished, and I had written a 
 few private letters, I took a charming evening walk, with ' 
 Monseigneur Hirth, through the plantations of the Mission, 
 which proved to me what can be accomplished in this country 
 A pros- by honest persevering work. The most various kinds 
 gion^oV* of European vegetables were growing here. A great 
 industry, gtretch of land had been cleared and planted with 
 bananas, which had been introduced from Uganda. Everywhere 
 willing industry and the blessed fruits of work ! 
 
 We were still absorbed in these reflections, when suddenly 
 a noise from the shore attracted our attention, and we were 
 informed of the approach of the remainder of my boats, which 
 had not come up on the previous evening. We hastened down 
 to the shore, and, sure enough, there we could count more than 
 twenty boats, all appearing at about the same spot from behind 
 
COMFORTABLE PROSPECTS FOR THE EXPEDITION. 481 
 
 the islands we had passed the daj- hefore. As soon as they 
 perceived the shore they fell into line, and went throu^jh some 
 evolutions and manoeuvres of various kinds. They Arrival of 
 then ran in, and I was quickly surrounded by my *® ^°^*^- 
 missing men, whom I had not seen since we were at Bumbide. 
 I hastened to give out cloth stuffs among them the same 
 evening, that they might provide themselves abundantly with 
 food. They were lodged in the houses of the Mission station. 
 
 j^t\mi"^ 
 
 USUKUMA WOJIAJJ I'REPAEING (JOEX. 
 
 and soon a cheeriiil bustling activity reigned amongst the 
 men, who were now convinced— what they had hitherto often 
 doubted— that they should succeed in getting back to their 
 own country. 
 
 On April 14th I decided to remove, with some of my men, 
 to Ukumbi, which lies some miles south of Nyagesi.^ Herr von 
 Tiedemann also made up his mind to go there for a few Eemovai to 
 days, and preferred to proceed by boat. As the Arabs 
 at Margo had not yet acknowledged German supremacy, I con- 
 sidered it important at once to hoist the German flag m 
 
 31 
 
482 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Ukiimbi, and, by treaty, to bring the country under German 
 protection, the more so as the French Mission had directly 
 requested me to do so. 
 
 On the morning of April 14th Pere Guyaut had taken a 
 photograph of our camp and our Askaris. In the afternoon 
 I started, with Hussein Fara and a few other Somalis, and my 
 private servants, and got to Ukumbi towards the evening. 
 Heavy rain had again fallen, and everything looked fresh and 
 green. It is true that the water, lying in the road, considerably 
 impeded our progress, but a tropical landscape always gains by 
 the watery element. The peculiar basaltic pillars, 
 through granitic formations, which I had already noticed from 
 the boats, distinguished, as I now found, all this part 
 of Usukuma. The road continues to lead past such formations, 
 and here and there a glimpse is to be obtained of Lake Victoria 
 on the right. On reaching a village half way between Nyagesi 
 and Ukumbi I was met by a donkey, which Monseigneur Hirth, 
 who had gone over that morning, had kindly sent for my use, 
 so that the rest of my journey was accomplished in a very 
 comfortable manner. Over a broad marsh we went slowly up 
 hill, through villages intersected by broad roads between green 
 hedges, surrounded by mtama and maize fields. Suddenly, on 
 our left, upon the slope of one of the above-mentioned hills, the 
 handsome Mission station of Ukumbi came in view. 
 
 The sun was setting as we approached, and the bells of 
 
 the church were ringing for vespers. We entered, through an 
 
 •Welcome h ^'^'^hway, into a square court surrounded by buildings. 
 
 Monseig- Monseigneur Hirth appeared on the verandah, and ran 
 
 down the steps to welcome me. 
 
 The bells rang out solemnly through the twilight, as 
 Monseigneur conducted me to his study. Here the sight of 
 a, writing table, with a bookshelf above it, made me at once 
 aware, that I was in a spot where the culture and mental 
 industry of Europe were represented in the heart of Africa. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM LAKE VIOTORIA TOWARDS 
 HOME. 
 
 ■' Bending to mighty 
 Iron laws, eternal, 
 Must we accomplish, 
 One and all among us. 
 The circle of our being." 
 
 Goethe, 
 
 THE station of Xj'agesi had, at the 
 request of ^lous. Lourdel, been 
 speciality erected for the 
 accommodation of AVa- 
 taking 
 
 ,_^ -^ » ucL-iimmuiiaiion oj 
 
 refuf^e in Ustikuma. It was now managed from Ukumlii. 
 As a rule, Pere Guyaut \Yeut over on the Saturday to hold a 
 
48-i ^^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 serA'ice there on Sunda}-, returning to the station on Monday. 
 During the weeks of our stay in these parts, Pere Guyaut 
 The Mission remained, with one of the Brethren, at Nyagesi, await- 
 its^oecV^ ing the arrival of Monseigneur Livinhac. Hitherto 
 pants. Monseigneur Hirth had been the superior of Nyagesi 
 and Ukumbi, but he had just then been appointed head of the 
 Catholic Missions round Lake Victoria in the room of Monseig- 
 neur Livinhac, who was recalled to Europe. Monseigneur 
 Hirth is a tall, spare man, wearing a thin beard and gold spec- 
 tacles. He bears the stamp of a German savant, and is deeply 
 versed in the dogmas of his religion. He speaks and writes good 
 German, though his pronunciation betrays a strong Alsatian 
 accent. Our conversation was carried on alternately in German 
 and French, and many an evening we discussed the differences 
 in the doctrine of our several churches. 
 
 Soon after my arrival I was introduced by Monseigneur 
 Hirth to Monseigneur Hautecoeur, Pere Procureur of the station, 
 a very intelligent and interesting little man, who had 
 Procureur spent loug years in Unjanjembe, and was able to give 
 'me much important infoi'mation concerning Arab doings 
 there. Having a very strong sense of humour, Monseigneur 
 Hautecoeur contributed most essentially to our entertainment at 
 table. He manages all the business matters of the station, 
 and is skilful in all manner of industries, from turning and 
 carpentering, to making cartridges and repairing guns. I used 
 to enjoy walking over to his lodgings of an afternoon, and 
 watching him at his work. 
 
 Over and above these two, there was a serving Brother at 
 
 Ukumbi, who, sad to say, soon after my arrival was attacked by 
 
 Labours of dysentery, of which he died during my stay. This man 
 
 the serving had made himself very valuable to the station by lay- 
 Brother. . ^ n • 1 . T , J J 
 
 mg out a garden, m which he had cultivated many 
 European vegetables, and fruit from the coast, oranges amongst 
 the rest. This garden was below the buildings, and was 
 watered by a mountain stream, turned from its course for 
 the purpose. 
 
 The whole settlement had, for the benefit of health, been 
 
THE CLIMATE OF USUKUMA. 435 
 
 built upon a height, upon the eastern side of the very interest- 
 ing creek ; but even this fact was not sufficient to protect it 
 against fever miasmas. Unlike Uganda, the Usukuma 
 country suffers from considerable drought, and, as I was llL^i. 
 informed, looks quite burnt up during eight months of ^'''''"""*' 
 the year. This drought is often very injurious to agriculture 
 
 Wasukuma. 
 
 and thus it comes that the inhabitants have mostly employed 
 their energies in the rearing of cattle. I was told that during 
 the dry season the beasts are driven into the forests, but I could 
 not quite understand how the people contrived to feed such 
 myriads of cattle the whole year through. When I saw Usukuma, 
 which was during the rainy season, the whole country looked like 
 a fresh, verdant meadow. In the fields maize and mtama were 
 blooming and ripening, as well as sweet potatoes and flourishing 
 
486 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 bean fields, so that I was forcibly reminded of our marsh lands 
 in Lower Germany, when I looked across these plains, 
 aspect of bordered only by the distinguishing skittle-shaped rocks 
 mentioned above. The inhabitants of this country also 
 exhibit the characteristics of the dAvellers in marshy plains. 
 They are heavy and sleepy, but, as it appears, reliable and steady. 
 On the whole, we may regard Usukuma as a valuable possession, 
 as the Wasukuma, beyond a doubt, make the best bearers, and 
 have in every way good capabilities for work. They have a 
 great predilection for establishing relations with the coast and the 
 white race, and will unquestionably, in the future, count amongst 
 our most useful subjects. I place them higher in value even 
 than the Wanjamwesi, more particularly because the latter 
 „ ^ ,. have for centuries been under Arab influences, to which 
 
 Good quali- 
 ties of the the "Wasukuma are decidedly averse. These people 
 
 V^^fl. R 11 K 1 1 TTl fl. 
 
 'soon attached themselves to me, and from all sides came 
 petitions and entreaties to give them a German flag ; petitions I 
 was unable to grant, for the sole reason that I had no more flags 
 in my possession. 
 
 In solemn form I hoisted our flag at Ukumbi, on the morn- 
 ing of April 16th, thus taking possession, for Germany, of the 
 Hoistin ^o^th side of Lake Victoria. Through the interven- 
 the German tion of Monseigneur Livinhac I had, in the first place, 
 ^^' entered into a treaty with the Sultan of Ukumbi, in 
 
 which he recognises German sovereignty, and begs for the flag. 
 It was th&n with due solemnity hoisted in his capital, in a lofty 
 position, and saluted by us with volleys from our firearms. It 
 was visible, also, to all the boats coming from the north into 
 the creek. 
 
 The Arabs of Margo, as I learnt from Monseigneur Hirth, 
 had fled into the forests on hearing of our approach, taking with 
 Flight of them large quantities of ivory ; and the opinion was 
 the Arahs. general in the south of the lake that, after the hoisting 
 of the German flag, they would altogether disappear from that 
 region. Their wealth, in the shape of ivory, already at that 
 time roused the people of the place to propose plundering expe- 
 ditions against them ; but I refused all offfers of this kind, as I 
 
MR. STOKES'f< ESTABLISiniENT. 
 
 487 
 
 was insufficiently acquainted Avith the country, and, in view of 
 my small stock of ammunition, was obliged, moreover, to avoid 
 every imprudent step. It Avas afterwards reported in Eur(ipe 
 that the Wasukuma subsequently set to work, on their own 
 
 account, to slaughter 
 the Arabs, and pro- 
 bably took possession 
 of their ivory. 
 
 The day alter the hoisting 
 of our flag, Herr von Tiedemann v 
 
 returned to Nyagesi, as the accommo- 
 dation at Ukumbi was rather limited; and 
 now began a few exceptional weeks of won- ^ 
 derfully calm existence for the expedition, which 
 had o-one through so manv adventures ot every 
 kind in getting here. In Ukumbi there was an esta- Mrjt.kes-s 
 blishment belon<fing to a Mr. Strikes, which comprised ^ent k. 
 several Wangwana and a number ol ieniale siaACs.^ 
 Here my people found amusement by day and by night, and 
 the beer-jug was never empty. The temper ot the people 
 
488 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 was one of great self-complacence. I could scarcely refrain 
 from smiling, when I saw them dressed up in all sorts of 
 tinsel finery, strutting, with their heads high in the air, 
 among the natives, at whom they scarcely deigned to 
 glance ; or when, lounging by the pombe-pot round the camp- 
 fires, they related to the horrified listeners stories about the 
 Massais and Waganda. They now, for the first time 
 
 Distribu- . ° -11 
 
 tionof during the expedition, received regular poscho, the 
 pose 0. Catholic Mission having been enabled to sell me a 
 sufficient quantity of stuff, accepting in payment a cheque on 
 Zanzibar. They could pay for their own food ; but, in the 
 beginning, they still followed their old habit of simply seizing 
 upon what they wanted, without taking the trouble of pur- 
 chasing, and were intensely surprised when I responded to this 
 
 action on their part by an energetic application of my 
 to the hippopotamus-hide whip. Only by degrees did they 
 
 ' become accustomed to respect, in the Wasukuma, German 
 subjects and men, like themselves, under German protection. 
 
 The course of each day in Ukumbi passed very quietly, in 
 idyllic fashion for me. I occupied a comfortable little room, in 
 The order ^^i^^ I made a practice of reading or writing during 
 of the day the morning. I rose at six to attend the roll-call of 
 
 ■ my men, who had to wait for me drawn up in rank and 
 file in front of the verandah. We then partook of breakfast in 
 the refectory, after which an hour was spent in each other's 
 company in the cool verandah, smoking a pipe of European 
 tobacco. Then I used to pay a visit to my Somalis, who occu- 
 pied a tent to the left of the station. Afterwards I wrote reports 
 or read until twelve o'clock, when the bell called us into the 
 luxuries of refectory to luncheon, which consisted of soup, roast 
 civUisedhfe. jjQ^eat, Vegetables, bread, butter, and cheese ; and a glass 
 of cognac and water tended to promote cheerfulness. After 
 luncheon, another pipe was smoked, to the accompaniment of a 
 cup of coffee. Each one then retired to his own room. I read, 
 or paid a visit to Monseigneur Hautecceur. Soon after four I 
 called for Monseigneur Hirth or Monseigneur Hautecceur, to take 
 a walk in the neighbourhood. We explored the country around. 
 
QUIET LIFE IN UKUMBI. 489 
 
 or we would go to the lake to catch a fish, or into the village to 
 buy honey. At six o'clock came vespers, and at half-past seven 
 we once more met in the refectory for the chief meal of the day, 
 which was followed by long conversations in the room, or, if the 
 mosquitoes were not too dangerously inclined, in the verandah. 
 
 It will be allowed that such a mode of life in the interior of 
 Africa is pleasant enough, and some surprise may be felt when 
 I relate that no more than a week had passed before I Desire to 
 became conscious of an almost irresistible longing to ** *■* '""^'^• 
 do something, no matter what — either to attack the Arabs of 
 Margo, or to drive back the hostile inhabitants from the other 
 side of the creek. This desire for action had been too highly 
 strung up, to be rapidly brought down to the level of the quiet 
 enjoyment of life. Then would come hours when the mind, 
 almost exhausted, like an electric battery, was inclined to lose 
 itself in dreamy reflections and poetic thought. Every effort of 
 will subsided, and the soul became quite the " world-contem- 
 plating eye " of Schopenhauer. The great problems of existence 
 stood forth in all their distinctness, and, as in earlier years, the 
 mind struggled to solve them. 
 
 Sometimes I also took part in the Roman Catholic service. 
 When at six o'clock the bell chimed for prayer, the longings of 
 childhood crept into my heart. I betook myself to the gervicV in 
 chapel, which was illuminated by wax lights and ^^^ "^^p^^- 
 redolent of incense. In this chapel was a harmonium, on 
 which Monseigneur Hirth was accustomed to play with the 
 touch of a master ; and when, to the sound of this instrument, 
 the children sang their Latin hymns with harmonious voices, 
 the soul was touched with a sweet melancholy. On listening for 
 the first time to this music a profound feeling of sadness and 
 pity for myself came upon me. All the passionate struggles 
 and combats of the last few months passed in review before 
 my mind, and I was fain to cover my face with my hands, to 
 repress a convulsive sobbing. 
 
 At such moments, differences of doctrine in the several 
 creeds vanish from the mind. " Feeling is everything, name is 
 but sound and smoke;" and music, which, according to Schopen- 
 
490 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 hauer, is the direct reflection of human aspirations, awakens 
 sentiment, even in a higher degree, amidst the threatening 
 surroundings of African life, than it does in the concert stalls 
 of Europe. 
 
 Thus the days went by in a dreamy uniform fashion. Of 
 INIonseigneur Livinhac we heard no tidings. The rainy season 
 ■Waiting Avas now upon us in all its force ; torrents of rain 
 s°e^ig^e«r poured daily from the clouds, mostly accompanied by 
 Livinhac. thuuder and lightning. From Usukumba, as well as 
 from Usumbiro, came tidings of heavy floods, which, it was 
 said, rendered the roads to the coast impassable for the time. 
 My men fell ill one after another, and on April 24th Herr 
 A'on Tiedemann himself was attacked by violent fever. On 
 the 25th I lost my efficient little Musa from Dar-es-Salam, 
 who, after Nogola's death, had been sole leader of the porters. 
 He had gone with two companions from Dar-es-Salam, to bathe 
 in an inlet of the Nyanza. Hassani, who, by the way, was 
 Musa's brother, and one of his two companions, stand- 
 
 Musa de- ' . \ t i 
 
 vouredbyaing on the shore, suddenly noticed a crocodile 
 approaching the bathers. Instantly they both en- 
 deavoured to gain the shore by swimming, which Maniumku, 
 the second of Musa's companions, succeeded in doing, but before 
 Mi^Sa could reach the land the crocodile had overtaken him, 
 and seized the unfortunate man by the back of the neck ; 
 and, before he could utter a cry, both disappeared together 
 beneath the surface of the water. 
 
 We were just sitting at dessert after our dinner, when Hassani 
 and Maniumku entered, howling lamentably, with the tidings, 
 " Musa has been devoured by a crocodile ! " I sprang from my 
 seat, put on my helmet, and shouldered my gun, hoping at 
 least to be in time to execute vengeance upon the crocodile ; 
 Ferocity of but the Creature had swum with its prey to one of the 
 toria^"" small islands in the creek, and was no more to be 
 crocodiles, gggjj J igamt from the Fathers that the crocodiles 
 of Lake Victoria are particularly dangerous. They overturn 
 small fishing boats to seize the crews, and sometimes even attack 
 people standing on the shore. I was told that many of the 
 
MUSA'S FATE; 
 
 TTEMPTED LIOX IfUNT. 
 
 491 
 
 Wasukuma lose their lives in this wa)'. I reoretted poor Musa 
 much, and forbade my men to bathe any nKjre ; liut such a 
 prohibition was now scarcely necessary. 
 
 As the news from Nyauesi appeared somewhat gra\e, I 
 betook myself thither on April 27th, to call on Herr von 
 Tiedemann. He was afraid, on the afternoon of that day, that 
 he was suffering from inflammati(jn of the liver ; a supposition 
 which fortunately proved to be erroneous. 
 
 ;.>^-'v-ii[w^ 
 
 uMBiS^ 
 
 The Chief I'ortee Musa Killed by a Crocodile. 
 
 I remained at Nj^agesi on the 28th and 29tli, where we one 
 afternoon went out for a general lion hunt, in which Herr \ on 
 Tiedemann was also able to take part. Every ^^ift^'i'-^n attempt 
 noon a lion had carried away a sheep from the flock at uon 
 
 . . hunting. 
 
 belonging to the Mission. \ve took uj) our jjosition 
 upon a height in the vicinity of the flock, to lie in wait for 
 him ; but the impudent fellow must have scented us, for that 
 afternoon he carried off a sheep from another flock that wa^ 
 grazing just behind us. We heard him roaring quite close to 
 
492 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 US, when my servant Mabruk disturbed him, but we could not 
 get within range of him. 
 
 I returned to Ukumbi on April 30th, with my mind relieved 
 concerning Herr von Tiedemann's health. We sat up late into 
 the night, as I had taken a fancy to watch for the Walpurgis 
 The "Wai- hour.* Unable to sleep any longer in a room, on that 
 W^\ night I once again set up my tent in the yard of the 
 watch. Mission station, and retired to it at midnight. 
 
 But this long watch was destined to have its consequences. 
 On May 1st, after breakfast, I was suddenly seized with a slight 
 shivering fit, and at once felt a longing ,to go to bed. An hour 
 afterwards I was lying in a high fever, and it proved to be the 
 real marsh fever, or malaria, by which I was attacked. The 
 peculiarity of this illness is, that it acts, in the first place, on 
 the nervous system, and paralyses the will. The patient suffers 
 greatly from depression and from all kinds of distressing 
 hallucinations. He is either shivering with cold, or lies 
 
 Dr. Peters ° 
 
 attacked by groaning, half dead, with burning heat. In this state 
 ^^^^^' he gets to think he will not live through the day. I 
 was quite convinced I should die, and I can say that there was 
 something exceedingly consoling to me in the thought that after 
 all my anxieties and struggles I should lie at rest at last on the 
 shores of Lake Victoria. 
 
 But Providence had decreed it otherwise. Strong doses of 
 tartar emetic relieved the system, and then Pere Hautecceur, who 
 The Doctor's had taken my case in hand, prescribed regular doses of 
 recovery, quinine, which at last subdued the fever, after I had 
 .had three days of delirium. But what havoc this attack had 
 made of my bodily frame ! Only three days before I was brisk 
 and strong as in Europe ; now I had become emaciated and 
 weak to such a degree that I could hardly stand up to crawl the 
 twenty paces that divided the Mission house from my tent. 
 I mention this to show what the malarious fever is on Lake 
 Victoria. 
 
 * The night between April 30th and May 1st (in some calendars the 
 vigil of St. Walpurgis or Walburga) had already in pagan times been a great 
 festival. See the " Walpurgis-Nacht " in Goethe's Faust. — Tr. 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE FINAL MARCH. 493 
 
 Whilst I was prostrated with fever, the Brother of the Mission 
 had died, and had been buried. On Maj' 4th m)" attack of fever 
 had been overcome, and on the 5th I could once more seat 
 myself in my arm-chair. Meanwhile the report con- Herr von 
 cerning Herr von Tiedemann was a disquieting one. ^ann's 
 He, too, was pursued by hallucinations. One night he in^ieBB. 
 had alarmed the whole Mission station by firing shots from his 
 revolver at some imaginary foes. Such were the tidings Pere 
 Guyaut brought to Ukumbi on May 6th. 
 
 Only one course was left for me to take. I must give up 
 waiting any longer for Monseigneur Livinhac, of whom we had 
 not yet heard anything. If we remained in this region of fever, 
 the attacks would infalliblj' recur, and in the end prove 
 fatal to us. Away, therefore, from Ukumbi, however to make a 
 
 stiEirt 
 
 weak we might feel ourselves, — away to other regions ! 
 Change of climate alone could cure us. 
 
 On May 6th I wrote to Herr von Tiedemann that on the 
 8th we should leave for the coast. On the 7th he arrived at 
 Ukumbi, where I had meanwhile made every preparation for 
 our departure. 
 
 I had engaged twelve new porters, and had bought from the 
 Mission sufficient cloth stuffs to supply the column with main- 
 tenance until we should reach the coast. Besides that, stores for 
 I had laid in some provisions for our personal use, from ^^^ ™*"^- 
 stores which Dr. Hans Meier had sent to the Lake through 
 Mr. Stokes's instrumentality. I took with me eleven bottles of 
 cognac and a few boxes of biscuits. I had also procured two 
 loads of rice. 
 
 By the evening of May 7th, we were so far recovered as to 
 be able to take our places at the general supper-table in the 
 Mission. I shook off the effects of the fever with extraordinary 
 rapidity, and on the morning of May 8th was already quite on 
 my legs again. Heavy showers of rain made us defer our depar- 
 ture until eleven o'clock. We were still sitting in the verandah 
 in front of my room, engaged in earnest conversation with 
 Monseigneur Hirth, when the sky cleared. Then I gave the 
 order to sound the trumpet for the start. A loud burst of 
 
494 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 cheering from all our men proved to me how they, too, had been 
 longino; for the hour of departure. The drum was beaten. 
 
 TI16 st&>rt 00 -I 
 
 from Accompanied by Monseigneur Hirth and Monseigneur 
 Tjkumiji. jjauteccEur, I placed myself at the head of the column. 
 We left the courtyard of the Mission station, turned to the right, 
 and then our way led over the brow of the heights that shut in 
 the Mission at the back, in a southerly direction, parallel with 
 the creek of the Victoria Lake. 
 
 The march on that day was somewhat toilsome, but we kept 
 up our courage by th-e consciousness of being on the road. We 
 March to had repeatedly to cross swampy lakes and pools, so that 
 Ndinga. j^ ^g^g nearly six o'clock before we reached Ndinga, our 
 camping-place for that day. A great popular festival was in 
 progress at Ndinga. Dancing and singing groups passed con- 
 tinually across the open space by the village, on which I had 
 given orders to pitch the tents, until I had to forbid their 
 noise. 
 
 It was a delicious feeling, after the rest of the previous weeks, 
 to feel oneself once more making way ; and in joyous mood we sat 
 down that evening together in my tent, the first occasion on 
 which we had done so for a long time. Unhappily our enjoy- 
 ment was disturbed after supper, for Herr von Tiedemann had 
 a fresh attack of fever, which compelled him immediately to 
 retire to bed. The next morning early we pursued our journey, 
 A pleasant P^^* Well-kept, clean villages, and through a fertile 
 day's march. a,nd highly-cultivated country. The contrast between 
 travelling through this sphere of German interests and through 
 the desert steppes in the north made itself felt in a striking 
 manner. I was in the habit of saying that we danced on our 
 way, from the lake to the coast, like ballet girls. Our com- 
 missariat was accurately regulated ; we had guides to lead us 
 every day who knew the capabilities of the country with regard 
 to the water supply, and I had really no further trouble, except- 
 inteuigent ^^^ *^^* °^ actual marching. Moreover, at Ukumbi, 
 wang-wana three Wangwana, who were in the service of Mr. Stokes, 
 attached themselves to our party, under the direction 
 of Salim and Pangani. These men knew the country and the 
 
? 
 
 THE WASUKUJIA AND THEIR COUNTRY. 495 
 
 people well, and I was able, from that time, to make use of 
 them in regulating my relations with the natives. Besides 
 this, on the second day of our march one hundred Wasukuma 
 joined my expedition, in order to travel to the coast under its 
 protection. These people had herds of cattle with them, which 
 they intended to sell at Bagamoyo. 
 
 The Wasukuma are a people fond of travel, and in conse- 
 quence of the great wealth of the land in cattle, which enables 
 them to procure from the coast the coveted cotton goods, ProbaWefu- 
 the traffic between this country and the places on the anot^f the 
 coast will, the next few years, be increased beyond all Wasukuma. 
 calculation, the more so if, by the establishment of a steamer 
 on Lake Victoria, the activity of the trade between the northern 
 and southern shores is promoted, which will enable the Waganda 
 also to open up trade directly with the coast. 
 
 After heavy rains, the country of Usukuma has very much 
 the appearance of the marshy plains of Lower Germany and 
 Holland. It is as flat as a trencher, completely verdant, and 
 only remarkable for the conical rocks already described. 
 Among these, the eye rests upon mighty herds of cattle, to be 
 counted by many thousands of head, reminding us of the wealth 
 of the Massais in this particular. From these numerous cattle 
 we derived a great advantage, as we could command a land of 
 large supplies of milk, which, especially in the form of pi^''*?' 
 curds and whey, furnished a refreshing article of food. I was 
 now accustomed, throughout the whole march, to carry a great 
 gourd containing buttermilk, a beverage equally nourishing 
 and refreshing, which soon restored my bodily strength, that 
 had been greatly diminished by the fever. 
 
 During the first days of our march, our one inconvenience 
 arose from the marshy state of the ground. Fate appeared un- 
 willing to spare our expedition any of the difficulties of African 
 travel. In the north we had been obliged to struggle on amid 
 dry primeval forests and bush steppes ; now we became Difficult 
 acquainted with the far greater disagreeables of stamp- ^^^^ ^°^' 
 ing along for hours through water or mud, risking at every step 
 the loss of our boots, as we often sank up to our knees in the 
 
496 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 morass, while ever^y day brought with it the danger of a renewed 
 attack of marsh fever ; for these swamps are the most prolific 
 hotbeds of malaria. 
 
 On May 9th we encamped in the precincts of a very rich 
 
 village called Kabila, which is surrounded by good cultivation, 
 
 and especially noted for its enormous herds of cattle. A 
 
 Encamp- r j . p niT 
 
 mentat heavy downpour overtook us in the afternoon, fiUmg 
 us with gloomy forebodings with regard to the march 
 for the following day. 
 
 On that day, after crossing a stream, we were to reach the 
 country of Nera proper, where we should come upon Stanley's 
 route. "NVe left Kabila early, and soon found ourselves in a 
 horrible quagmire, through which we could manage to crawl 
 with dragging footsteps, in the slowest of time. We contrived 
 to reach the ford of a tributary that emptied itself into Lake 
 stopped by Victoria, but every attempt to cross it was fruitless. 
 a river. rpj^g current was violent, and the water rose higher than 
 the men's heads. What was to be done ? The guides proposed 
 that we should return to Kabila. This I declined to do. As I 
 had heard that this river was formed by the junction of two 
 The two streams higher up, I decided to try whether it would 
 braneiies. jjq^ ^g possible to cross these separately, one after the 
 other. So we went pounding slowly along towards the east, and 
 succeeded in finding, in the stream that flowed from the north- 
 east, a broad part, where the water only came up to the men's 
 chests, and where we at last managed to cross. Forward now 
 for the southern branch ! But every effort to find a fording- 
 place here was unavailing ; and as the sun had already passed the 
 zenith, I had to make up my mind, willingly or unwillingly, to 
 look out for a spot in the swampy plain where it would 
 ment by be possible to pitch our camp. Such a spot was found 
 below one of the stony hills characteristic of Usukuma, 
 just to the north of the place in the river near which we then 
 were, and thither I led our whole caravan. " The water here 
 will have run off by to-morrow morning," said one of our 
 Ukumbi guides, " unless it comes on to rain again." 
 
 An alteration had been made in the manner of living in our 
 
ORDER OF THE DAY'S MARCH. 497 
 
 expedition, inasmuch as I had brought with me a packet of wax 
 lights from Ukumbi, and we could accordingly make ourselves 
 comfortable in the evening in our tents. One candle had 
 certainly to last us for four evenings ; but, at any rate, it gave 
 us two hours' light every evening ; and as Herr von Tiedemann 
 generally lay down of an evening, I could devote myself to 
 reading during the hours after supper, whilst enjoying my pipe. 
 This fact, more than anything else, took from our mode of 
 living the makeshift or journeyman workman-like appearance 
 that had characterised our march into the country. 
 
 The next morning we returned to the river, and behold ! the 
 guide had been right ; the waters had so far subsided that we 
 were able to overcome this troublesome obstacle, and Fording 
 though we had an hour's wading through the mud for ^"^^ stream, 
 it, we reached the land of Nera, and, in fact, came to a wealthy 
 village in the same. 
 
 Before leaving Ukumbi, I had ordered two donkeys to be in 
 waiting here, intending thus to secure an agreeable variety in 
 our method of progress for Herr von Tiedemann and myself. 
 These donkeys were driven up in the afternoon, and although 
 they had not been broken in, and required careful 
 watching, especially at the beginning, as they had a useful 
 tendency to run away at any moment into the thorny °^ *^°' 
 brushwood, they nevertheless proved exceedingly useful to us 
 on the march as far as Mpuapua. The following was now my 
 method of travelling. In the morning at 5.30 the first signal 
 to rise was given, after I had washed and dressed myself. The 
 men had at once to go to their loads, and especially to the tents, 
 which were struck in a moment. Two minutes later the second 
 trumpet sounded, whilst we, generally standing about the 
 kitchen, consumed some hot coffee, porridge, and, since our 
 departure from Ukumbi, a few biscuits, so long as they lasted. 
 Some two minutes more and the third signal was given, a mom- 
 the drums beat, and we started on our journey, pns's march. 
 marching in front with the guides and our flag, whilst my 
 column quickly fell into order behind me. I usually marched 
 on for two hours, then, at about eight o'clock, the donkey was 
 
 32 
 
498 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 brought, and I rode on it for about another hour. From nine 
 to eleven I marched again on foot, and then made a halt of a 
 quarter of an hour for breakfast. This meal consisted regularly 
 of cold meat, with usually the addition of porridge. Thereupon 
 we went on again till noon, or past noon, according to the 
 distance of our place of encampment. If it was necessary to 
 march until the afternoon, I made a halt between twelve and 
 one o'clock, and, as a rule, I had cocoa or tea made for Herr 
 von Tiedemann and myself ; but, on these occasions, I allowed 
 no previous halt. The last stage of the journey I generally rode 
 on the donkey. 
 
 In this way we covered from nine to eighteen miles a day. 
 The average on our return journey was daily about twelve 
 miles. Here it was, in Nera, that Salim and his companions 
 joined us, and under their guidance we, on the following morn- 
 ing, pursued our way southwards, further into the land. Here 
 The Nera in Nera Stanley had been compelled to fight, six 
 country, j^gnths previously. I consider that Stanley, in the 
 accounts of his travels, draws far too threatening a picture of 
 his position in Nera. The people of this country have always 
 had a tendency to be insolent in their behaviour to all caravans ; 
 but when, like Stanley, a man has the command of a thousand 
 men and a Maxim gun, this insolence is no more than that of 
 a fly annoying an elephant. In all these countries there pre- 
 vails what I may call the vice of demanding tribute from 
 , , travellers, an evil custom, which is all the more to be 
 
 Payment of ' p • i 
 
 tribute a Condemned as the native chiefs do nothing whatever, 
 either in the way of maintaining the roads or of 
 rendering them safe. Nevertheless, all travellers, Mr. Stanley 
 at their head, have consented to pay this tribute. I always 
 refused on principle to do so, and more decidedly than ever on 
 our return journey, because we were now marching in German 
 territory, and it would have been reversing the natural order of 
 things for the masters of the country to pay tribute to their 
 subjects. This proceeding of mine one day led to a slight 
 skirmish with the most southern inhabitants of the land, the 
 Wasekke. These people employ the tactics, if I may so call 
 
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE WASEKKE. 
 
 499 
 
 them, of shrieking and howling at caravans, in order to intimi- 
 date them. As I learned from my servant Selek, a 
 
 , ■ /-I • iflCtlCB 01 
 
 native of the country, it is by no means the fashion the 
 with them to kill people, but they only do this as a 
 pretence, and generally cause the bearers to drop their loads, 
 
 Animal Life in the Deseet. 
 
 which then become the welcome 
 prey of the natives. "When they 
 Endeavoured thus to intimidate our 
 expedition, they certainly tried it on 
 with the wrong people. We fired in 
 among them, and four of them had 
 to pay for their folly with their lives. 
 I laid three of them low, and Herr 
 von Tiedemann one. In two minutes 
 the whole body of them had disap- 
 peared. I suppose that to Stanley's 
 fancy the dangers of such a position 
 were more vivid than to my brain of Lower Saxony, but this 
 kind of description of travels has the disadvantage of awaken- 
 ing in those who come after a timid frame of mind, which 
 causes them to sixa way to the unjustifiable and The African 
 
 . ,r • A ' character. 
 
 impudent demands of the natives more than is advis- 
 able in the interests of the opening out of these countries. 
 
 "•M 
 
500 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Truth to say, from a warlike point of view, the Africans are not 
 greatl}' to be feared, least of all the Bantu tribes in the territory 
 of the German Protectorate and the rascally Wangwana on the 
 coast. The only people who may inspire any fear in this 
 respect are the Massais of the tablelands. 
 
 From May 12th onward I found myself upon the route 
 which Stanley and Emin Pasha had taken. On the 13th we 
 crossed the Wami, one of the tributaries of Lake Victoria, at 
 Crossing Muamara, and on the 14th we reached the country 
 the Wami. ^f Sekke, where we had to fight a little in the manner 
 above described on the next morning. In entering Sekke we 
 had reached the last border country of Usukuma, and we entered 
 Unjamwesi territory after a four hours' march through a bush 
 region wonderfully rich in game animals, amongst which I 
 was especially struck by the numbers of giraffes and zebras. 
 The Wasekke pursued us for a short distance into the primeval 
 forest, but had carefully kept beyond the range of our 
 of the guns. At length they gave up the vain pursuit, and, 
 as in former days, we contmued our way alone and 
 unaccosted through the wilds. At one o'clock we reached the 
 first Unjamwesi kraal, Sijanga, where we were received by 
 the inhabitants with great heartiness. 
 
 In this country Mr. Stokes, formerly a member of the 
 English Mission at Usumbiko, carries on his business. He has 
 his principal settlement at Usongo, frbm which place 
 business he chiefly trades to the Victoria Nyanza. I have 
 ^" ^' already mentioned that I met his agents in Uganda 
 and in the west of the lake, where they were purchasing ivory. 
 Stokes, like a shrewd Irishman, has hit upon just the right 
 thing in pushing the buying-up trade in the interior, which is, 
 indeed, the one branch in which money is still to be made. 
 There is no room left for large profits in the purchasing trade 
 on the coast, where the European has to compete with the 
 Indians, and where the prices depend entirely upon the markets 
 of Europe. For this reason, from the very beginning, I advo- 
 cated the view that the German East African Company should 
 establish the centre of its commercial undertakings in the 
 
niPORTANT ROUTES FOR CARAVAN TRADE. 501 
 
 interior, where ivory has still no fixed rate of sale, so that 
 practically its price on the coast is regulated only by the 
 expenses of transport. This course the Company has in these 
 last days adopted, and it is to be expected that it will 
 
 1 i_ • 1 •■111 Ideas of 
 
 not only be a gainer, but that it will also contribute trade w. 
 in a much greater degree to the opening lip and ™°" 
 civilising the interior of Africa, than if it had confined itself to 
 erecting factories at different places on the coast. The British 
 East African Company, too, naturally started with this idea 
 from the beginning. The first thing that William Mackinnon 
 did was to erect English stations along the course of the Tana 
 upward, at Miansini on the Naiwascha Lake, and at Kwasundu 
 on the Victoria Nyanza. Through Mr. Stokes's establishment, 
 which is situated about four or five days' journey from Tabor a, 
 Usongo has become, in reality, the second commercial and 
 political centre of Unjamwesi, and, as such, stands in a certain 
 contrast to Tabora. 
 
 The result of all this has been that the traffic from Lake 
 Victoria to the coast has become accustomed to make the 
 circuit over Usongo on the "so-called Ndjia Stokisi. ^^^^ ^^^^^^ 
 As Stokes had to keep up caravan communications of caravan 
 
 trade 
 
 from Usongo to Lake Victoria, and, on the other hand, 
 sent his wares from Usongo to the coast, other caravans also 
 followed this same route, so, amongst others, Stanley and his 
 expedition. A glance at the map, however, will show that this 
 route is a very circuitous one. Many a morning I experienced 
 a certain feeling of annoyance at the thought that we were 
 moving in a south-south-westerly direction, instead of proceed- 
 ing towards the south-east, where lay the goal of our march. 
 Monseigneur Livinhac had, already in Uganda, sug- q^^^^^^^ ^p 
 gested to me the idea whether, in the interests of the ^^^^llf^^^^ 
 trade between the coast and Lake Victoria, I should 
 not strive to open up a direct way from Ukumbi, or even from 
 Speke's Gulf to Bagamoyo. I decided to act upon this sugges- 
 tion, at least in part, and already in Sijanga made up my mind 
 not to take the circuitous route through Unjamwesi, but to make 
 my way straight towards Ugogo, and thus to cross the Wembaere 
 
50'2 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 Steppe in a diagonal line. Salim tried, indeed, to dissuade me 
 from this intention by calling my attention to the dangers to 
 be encountered at the hands of the Massais, which had been the 
 cause of Stanley's taking the circuitous route through Unjamwesi. 
 I replied: "We know the Massais, and are not afraid of them. 
 Let those who fear the Massais march to Ugogo through 
 Unjamwesi. I shall avail myself of the nearest road thither, 
 and must, therefore, procure guides through the Wembaere 
 
 steppe." 
 
 Unfortunately I was unable immediately to carry out this 
 
 intention. At Sijanga I had pitched my tent in the middle 
 
 of the village. In the afternoon, on stepping forth 
 
 Beturn of . _ . -^ i ^i n i 
 
 theukum- from my tent into the open air, i was startled by a 
 bi fever, ^j^gj^^ attack of giddiness. I went back immediately, 
 sat down in my chair, and took a strong dose of quinine. In 
 spite of this, my Ukumbi fever returned in the night, just one 
 fortnight after the first attack. In consequence, I was under 
 the necessity of making only short marches during the next 
 few days, pitching our camp only about five miles further south 
 each day. On the 16th we encamped at Lindilindi, on the 
 1 7th at Sai, and it was not till May 1 8th that, when my fever 
 had altogether subsided, I was able to push forward in a long 
 day's march, in an easterly direction, to Busiba. 
 
 Busiba is the furthest Bantu settlement in the Massai wilder- 
 ness. Here reigns that Sultan Keletesa whom I had seen in 
 Bagamoyo a year previously. The Wasiba people have 
 ment of Constantly to defend themselves against the rapacious 
 Massai tribes. A warlike spirit has, in consequence, 
 been developed among them. 
 
 I was conducted to Sultan Keletesa by a guide who had just 
 returned from the coast. He was the very ideal of an Usukuma 
 A dandy of dandy. The young gentleman sported European trousers 
 Usukuma. ^nd a European shirt ; his head, that he waved in an 
 impressive way, was protected by a European tropical helmet 
 from the rays of the sun, so dangerous to finely-organised brains. 
 But this was not enough for our friend. As he had seen it done 
 in Bagamoyo, he used, when the sun mounted higher, towards 
 
nrii DAXDY I'srKr.UA GriDE. 
 
 503 
 
 eight o'clock, to put up an umbrella ; and for the protection of 
 his delicate hands he would draw on a pair of woollen gloves, 
 No. 13. He looked down with an eye of pity upon our dilapi- 
 dated condition, and received with dignified gravity the well- 
 deserved homage offered by his compatriots, especially by 
 those of the lemale sex. 
 
 Keletesa had no sooner 
 heard of my arrival, than 
 he hoisted in his capital the 
 German flag he had brought 
 from Baijamoyo, ^ , . , 
 
 ^ • ' Keletesa s 
 
 and iireseutly he cordial 
 
 behaviour. 
 
 appeared in person 
 to bid us a hearty welcome. 
 He also showed me a letter 
 from Bagamoyo, signed liy 
 Captain Richelmann, — the 
 first (ierman document I 
 had set eyes on for a whole 
 year. 
 
 I pitched my tent under 
 the shade of a widespreading 
 tree, and mj^ people quartered 
 themselves in the houses of 
 the Wasiba, which were hos- 
 pitably placed at our dis- 
 posal. Mirth and dancing 
 were the order of the day 
 in the kraals, and Keletesa 
 held two long conferences 
 with me. I questioned him as follows : — 
 
 " When you go from here to Bagamoyo which road do you 
 
 generally take ? " Particulars 
 
 " I go throuiih the Wembaere steppe in seven for the 
 days to Usure, and then from Usure to Muhalala 
 and Ugogo, likewise in seven days. ' 
 
 "Is water to be found for a caravan in the Wembaere steppe ?" 
 
 An Usukujia Dakdy. 
 
.304 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " Plenty of water is to be found there now. When the river 
 beds are dry you have only to dig in the sand, and you will find 
 water below." 
 
 " Will you give me guides to take me through the steppe ? " 
 
 " I cannot provide you with guides, as they could not return 
 alone. The road leads all the way close along the Massai 
 country, and you must keep a good watch that they do not 
 attack your expedition. If you want guides, some may accom- 
 pany you as far as Mpuapua, and wait there till your expedition 
 returns here ; but you cannot miss the way if you always follow 
 the traces left by me and my people. Each day you will also 
 find a camping-place I have used, where your people may sleep. 
 There is only one way through the Wembaere steppe." 
 
 " Then I shall find water each day ? " 
 
 " Every day much water," he replied ; " but you ought to 
 stay here a few days, and provide yourself with food, for you will 
 find nothing to eat in the desert." 
 
 " Ah, I need not stay here some days for that purpose," I 
 answered. " My people have sufficient poscho to last them as 
 far as Mpuapua." 
 
 I then summoned Musehe, the head man of the porters, and 
 Hussein, and ordered them to tell the people that each man must 
 buy food for himself for seven days, as we were going to cross 
 the Wembaere steppe. 
 
 We started early on the following morning. At first our way 
 led us past a few settlements. To the left the white steppe lay 
 , . . stretched out in immeasurable distance before us in the 
 
 A region of 
 
 thicket and clear Sunlight. When we had left the last settlement of 
 the Wasiba behind us, we entered a remarkably barren 
 country, a grey and dingy region of thickets, with dried-up trees 
 everywhere. At each step we took a sandy dust cloud whirled up, 
 enveloping the whole column. Thus we toiled along in a south- 
 easterly direction until past noon. Suddenly a river came in 
 The river view. " That is the river Sanguke," said Salim ; " it 
 sanguke. flg^g ^q ^]^g Manouga, by which we shall sleep to- 
 morrow." 
 
 As we had not had a rest the whole morning, I decided to 
 
THE WE2IBAERE REGION ;— RICH IN GAME. 505 
 
 make a short halt here, and then to go on in the afternoon to 
 Keletesa's first camping-place. 
 
 A march of this kind through barren steppes has a depress- 
 ing effect on the mind ; and it was in a somewhat mournful 
 mood that I threw myself down on the river's bank, to await 
 the arrival of my colu 
 
 Herr von Tiedemann had remained a long way behind. 
 When he came up he informed me, very sorrowfully, that he was 
 once more suffering from dysentery, and that it would Herr von 
 be impossible for him to march further that day. So I "^l^-^ m. 
 set myself to the task of seeking for a camping-ground "^^^s- 
 in the neighbourhood. This was difficult enough, as the 
 ground near the water was slimy, and manifestly a fever trap, 
 whilst stiff and thorny brushwood cut us off from the steppe. 
 
 At last, about twenty yards northward from the watercourse, 
 I found a spot that was somewhat more open, and had it cleared 
 by the axe. The Sanguke and the Manonga already belong to 
 the water feeders of the Wembaere. Day by day we crossing the 
 now encamped near some tributary of this river, and 'Wembaere. 
 crossed the river itself a few days later. I was unable to dis- 
 cover whither it flowed. Salim declared that it belonged, after 
 all, to the Kufidschi system ; a theory which, however, I con- 
 sider entirely unwarranted. It appears to find its way north- 
 eastward into the Wembaere steppe, and perhaps forms the 
 upper course of one of the tributaries of Lake Victoria, flowing 
 into Speke's Bay. 
 
 In this 'steppe we passed a sufficiently melancholy afternoon. 
 By making use of his bedstead, I had a sort of litter constructed 
 for Herr von Tiedemann, on which he could be carried on our 
 marches by a few Wasukuma porters. For any one suffering 
 from dysentery, marching should by all means be avoided. 
 
 Thus we pursued our journey next day in a south-easterly 
 direction. The aspect of the country underwent, in so far, a 
 favourable change, that the foliage had a somewhat ^ ^^^^^ 
 fresher appearance, and tracks of game animals were rfgame 
 visible here and there. Many ostriches, in particular, 
 showed themselves in the desert, but none came within range 
 
506 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 of our guns. The porters Avho were carrying Herr von Tiede- 
 mann remained far behind, so that I began to feel anxious on 
 his account, and sent back men to look after him. However, 
 about an hour after m_y arrival at the camp at Manonga, which 
 I reached at two o'clock, Herr von Tiedemann came in. He 
 Travelling- Complained that the stretcher, which exposed him to 
 m a litter, ^j^g burning sun and to the risk of being thrown down 
 at any moment, had rendered the march altogether intolerable 
 to him. Presumably it was to the heat of the sun that we had 
 to ascribe an alarming attack of palpitation of the heart by 
 which Herr von Tiedemann was seized that afternoon, which 
 filled me with dismal apprehension. But on the following 
 morning he felt much better, and was once more able to 
 march. 
 
 On our horizon a sharply-defined mountain land now showed 
 itself, which Salim, in reply to my inquiry, designated as Iramba. 
 „ ^ Towards the left the eye wandered over a barren tract 
 
 The true -^ 
 
 Wembaere of desert land, studded here and there with bush — the 
 real Wembaere steppe, which leads into the land of the 
 Massais. At intervals rose a small group of high trees, under 
 whose shade a fresher flora was able to develop itself. Here 
 great herds of giraffes and zebras were grazing, but I was never 
 able to knock over one of them. Our march now always lasted 
 until after midday, as we were compelled, on account of the 
 necessity for water, to keep scrupulously to Keletesa's camping- 
 March places. My people generally found there the small 
 through the straw huts of the ^yasiba, in which they established 
 
 wilderness, , , V. i- 
 
 themselves, and we could always rely upon finding water 
 in the vicinity. On the whole, this renewed march through the 
 wilderness had great attractions for me after the long stay in a 
 civilised country on the shores of Lake Victoria. The recollec- 
 tion of my forward march along the upper course of the Tana 
 arose in my mind, and my heart could once more hold quiet 
 communion with itself. 
 
 Perhaps an expedition of this kind through Africa offers 
 more opportunities than are found elsewhere for thought and 
 quiet reflection. A man is alone almost the whole day, the din 
 
THE END OF A LONG 2IARCH. 507 
 
 and turmoil of the world are far off, and only the great impres- 
 sions of pure and unsophisticated nature work upon the fancy. 
 Sedately, and free from the feverish strife of Europe, Thoughts 
 existence flows onwards, and the mind is necessarily goiit^je ^f 
 raised to the contemplation of the great and the eternal, 'i^tii'^e- 
 Thus life here gains in mental depth and purity of aspiration, 
 and in the midst of European ciAdlisation the fact of heing able 
 to look back upon these weeks lends to this memory something 
 of the longing desire for the purity and innocence of Paradise. 
 In the throes of the grasping strife and struggles of civilisation 
 the mind longs for the grand impressions and feelings of the 
 wilderness, where the Creator Himself appears to come nearer to 
 us in His works, and eternity seems to speak to us in its own 
 mighty language. 
 
 May 23rd saw the end of our march through the steppe. 
 This day was one of the most disagreeable I experienced 
 throughout our entire expedition. In the morning we pro- 
 ceeded in a southerly direction, always keeping in view the 
 abrupt blue slope of the Iramba plateau, illumined by the clear 
 morning sunlight. Suddenly a surface of a bright green colour 
 appeared before us, which I was inclined to take for a ^ ^^^^^ 
 beautiful meadow. But on this occasion I fared like and dismal 
 
 /-i 1 •!-> 1 J? swamp. 
 
 the grenadiers of Frederick the Great at the mttie oi 
 Prague. I was soon convinced that the supposed meadow was 
 nothing but an infernal swamp. At first I tried to march 
 round it, but in half an hour's time I found that it stretched 
 out before us in apparently endless width, and that we must of 
 necessity wade through it. So now for it. From half-past 
 nine in the morning until past midday we waded, always up 
 to the hips, sometimes to the waist, in water, through rushy 
 ground and clinging slime. From tune to time I was obliged 
 to call some of my men, as my boots were actually sticking in 
 the slime. With enormous exertion we at last reached an 
 elevated place in the middle of the swamp, where we were able 
 to rest for a short period. Then the business began a haven of 
 again, until at last the cause of this marsh became ''^'*- 
 apparent ; it arose from the swelling of the Wembaere river, 
 
o08 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 which had overflowed its banks, and which, as a finish, we had 
 to cross in water up to our chests. We all recollected the fate 
 of Musa, and this remembrance, together with the thought that 
 some hungry crocodile might seize the fine opportunity of 
 securing a substantial breakfast, naturally did not contribute 
 to make the wading more agreeable. Exhausted and wet 
 through, we at length climbed out of the swamp on to higher 
 land, where we quickly changed our clothing, so as to avoid 
 catching a deadly fever in addition to all the rest. We now 
 saw before us grazing herds, with their herdsmen, but these 
 latter scampered off at the top of their speed when I attempted 
 to open a conversation with them. 
 
 In a state of extreme exhaustion, our column halted at half- 
 past one o'clock, under the shadow of some trees, to get a hasty 
 Provision- ^^^^ ' ^^^ we had to march until past three before 
 ing the were ached Keletesa's encampment. I decided to rest 
 here for a day, to collect a fresh stock of provisions 
 ibr the column for the march across the steppe between Iramba 
 and Ugogo that lay before us. That very afternoon I sent to 
 Sultan Kilioma, requesting him to be kind enough to come 
 to me, to enter into negotiations respecting our relations to 
 each other. I asked him not to forget the tribute due to me ; 
 I should require a few donkeys and some sheep. It appeared 
 The people that the people of Iramba are of the same race as the 
 of Iramba. ^^agogo, a mixture of Bantu and Massai blood. They 
 were said to be formidable people, who attack passing caravans, 
 to force them to pay a tribute. Salim told me, however, that 
 the people of northern Iramba were on friendly terms with the 
 Wasiba under Keletesa. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 24th the Sultan appeared with 
 a large retinue, amongst whom my attention was especially 
 attracted by a number of young girls, whose whole attire con- 
 sisted of short skirts made of beads, that were very becoming. 
 I laid before the Sultan the reasons that had induced me to send 
 for him. 
 
 " I know very well that you dwell here, close to the Massais, 
 who come to burn your villages, murder your people, and carry 
 
INTERVIEW WITH SULTAN KILIOMA. 509 
 
 oflf your cattle. Now, I am the enemy of the Massais, against 
 whom we have repeatedly fought, and all enemies of the 
 Massais are my friends. The nearest way from the .,, 
 
 11111 Address to 
 
 Nyanza to the coast leads through your territory, and I suitan 
 conclude that in the future many Germans' will pass ^ ^°^^' 
 through it. For this reason I will give you our flag, which will 
 perhaps frighten away these Massais. But, ahove all, my 
 brothers, when they travel through your country, will know at 
 once you are our friend. You will bring them food, and they 
 will then give you presents, and if they want to have guides 
 you will furnish them with guides to Busiba. Are you ready to 
 enter into such friendship with me ? " 
 
 " I am very willing to do so. The Massais came here only 
 half a year ago and drove away my herds of oxen, and I know 
 that they will come again as soon as they see that my g^j^^^ 
 herds have grown large once more. Therefore I shall KiUoma's 
 
 reply 
 
 be glad if the Germans pass frequently through my 
 territory, and I pray you give me your flag, and then I will be 
 the servant of the Germans." 
 
 " Very good. Here is our flag for you, which my soldiers 
 shall hoist for you to-day, and here I give you your letter. But 
 understand well, that I also now demand of you that you shall 
 give your support to every expedition under the German flag. 
 So soon as you have had the German flag given you you are of 
 necessity bound to give them whatever they require of you, 
 otherwise we shall make war upon you and destroy you all. 
 But if you are faithful and true to us, my brothers, who will 
 perhaps come, will, on their part, always be willing to make 
 you presents." 
 
 After an hour's interview the Sultan left me, and I sent a 
 few Somalis with him, who hoisted the black, white, and red 
 flag on a lofty position. This country is of importance Hoisting 
 
 f* • ^ • the flae* 
 
 for caravan traffic, chiefly on account of its lying ^■ 
 between two steppes, and thus from its position it necessarily 
 becomes a point of support for the journey. 
 
 On May 25th we pursued our march southwards, still keep- 
 ing the Iramba mountains on our left. I noticed that in the 
 
510 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 distance the mountain chain was leyelled down, and I decided to 
 cross its most southern spur. Behind it we came upon 
 ment of the productive settlement of Usure, where we were able 
 to provide ourselves with food for the desert march to 
 Uweri-weri. The plateau of Iramba is covered with handsome 
 forests, in the midst of which the people have formed their 
 plantations. In north Iramba we had been told that we should 
 have to fight with the people in the south ; therefore on that 
 da)' I accomplished the march with all the vigilance I had 
 formerly used in the Massai country. But the Wairamba had 
 PeaoeaWe evidently no desire to measure themselves with us. In 
 thewa*-"^ the forest, through which our road lay, we met with 
 iramba. several wood-cutters, who willingly gave us information, 
 when we asked them, regarding our route. A hostile disposition 
 was nowhere noticeable, and soon we left all trace of this settle- 
 ment behind us, and were once more surrounded by the vast 
 and barren bush steppe. Here we lost the track of Keletesa's 
 caravan, and had to seek our way for ourselves. About noon, 
 however, we found water, and Salim's Wangwana succeeded in 
 finding Keletesa's track again, so that we managed to reach his 
 encampment, in a sort of moor-like water hollow, towards four 
 o'clock. 
 
 The night before I had had the ill-fortune to be found out in 
 my bed by a centipede, which stung me in the finger, so that 
 
 ,. ^ for the next few days my arm was painfully inflamed 
 
 A centipede ./ ./ r j 
 
 and a and almost paralysed. The following night, when we 
 ^ ^^*' had gone to bed at nine o'clock, I had a second un- 
 pleasant surprise. My servant had placed my washing basin, 
 which consisted of a waterproof bag hanging in a three-footed 
 stand, close to my bed, ready for the morning's use. During 
 the night, as usual, the wind rose slightly, and by moving the 
 tent backwards and forwards it caused the basin to overturn, 
 and to pour its whole contents over my blanket and myself. I 
 called my servant, but could not make up my mind to get up, 
 and so remained lying in my wet blankets. The consequence 
 was, that all the next day I experienced the uncomfortable 
 sensations of coming fever. 
 
ON THE IRA MB A PLATEAU. 511 
 
 Duriug this day we continued the course of the expedition 
 towards the southern incline of the Iramha plateau. The ground 
 became more and more undulating, and, in consequence Theiramba 
 of the moisture, was productive of a richer vegetation, plateau- 
 Mighty ferns, like those we had seen along the Tana, towered 
 under the shadow of primeval forest trees, and a growth of fresh 
 grass appeared in the beds of rivers now dried up. From ten 
 o'clock we were continually on the ascent, until, between eleven 
 and twelve, a very steep and difficult mountain barrier had to 
 be scaled. I reached the summit and halted, to await the arrival 
 of my column, that had fallen behind. "We partook of some 
 breakfast, and pursued our way along the plateau till towards 
 three in the afternoon. Then the forest opened, and suddenly 
 we saw a field of maize just in front of us. Half an hour's 
 march brought us through the corn fields, and then, upon a hill 
 straight before us, rose a fortified place, with ramparts of clay, 
 strongly reminding me of Kabaras and Kwa Tindi. 
 
 In these countries it is customary for an approaching 
 caravan to announce its friendly intentions by beat of drum. 
 This I was not aware of, and so it came to pass that the 
 inhabitants began swarming about like bees, especially among the 
 
 USitilVGS 
 
 when they saw the German flag. They were afraid we 
 were going to attack and plunder the place. By means of Salim 
 I soon established friendly relations with them, and learnt that 
 we were now in Makongo, in the vicinity of Usure. I had the 
 tents pitched under a huge tree on the left side of the ramparts, 
 and, at the request of the elders, I forbade my people to encamp 
 within the walls of the town. It might otherwise soon come to 
 a quarrel, the chiefs thought. 
 
 My efforts to enter into friendly relations with the Sultan 
 of the place himself were certainly unavailing. His relatives 
 came presently, begging me to excuse him, saying that ^ ^^j^_ 
 he could not possibly appear, being just then so mduigent 
 exceedingly drunk. They were prepared to accept my 
 suggestion to pour water upon him, so that perhaps he might 
 be able to appear in the evening. On my sending in the even- 
 ing to request that the Sultan might now be brought to me, I 
 
512 XE]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 was informed that the application of water had had no effect, and 
 that he was still drunk, but that he would come to me at five 
 o'clock the next morning. At that hour, however, the state of 
 intoxication continued as strongly as ever. They tried to bring 
 him to me, but he staggered and tumbled down at the gate. As 
 a proof of their friendly intentions, his brother presented me 
 with two oxen for slaughtering, with which I had to console 
 myself for the unsuccessful attempt at concluding friendship. 
 
 On leaving Makongo we proceeded in a south-easterly direc- 
 tion, leaving the southern incline of the Iramba plateau behind, 
 to the north of us. We had soon left the plantations, and were 
 once more out in the bush forest. 
 
 That morning I had the misfortune that my donkey ran 
 away Avith me, without any apparent reason, into the midst of 
 Amischance *^® thorny thicket, where my left hand was mercilessly 
 through my lacerated. From that time I adopted the plan Herr 
 °" ^^' von Tiedemann had always followed, namely, that of 
 having my untrained donkey soberly led by a Somali ; which 
 method, although it did not present a very imposing appearance, 
 was at least a comfortable and practical proceeding. 
 
 At eleven o'clock the forest once more opened before us, and 
 we saw more plantations, which were, indeed, the fields of the 
 sultanate of Usure. But I passed by the first villages without 
 halting, as I wished to press on to the capital, where a Sultana 
 wields the sceptre. We did not reach this place — which is also 
 The un- s^irrounded with strong walls — until after one o'clock, 
 ladylike To our sorrow we were told, immediately on our arrival, 
 that the Sultana very much regretted that she could 
 not receive us, but that she and all her court were very drunk. 
 It was just harvest time, when, as I might easily see, the corn- 
 cultivating tribes of Africa are more or less drunk every day. 
 The movement that hopes, by preventing the importation of 
 Native spirits, to put an end to the consumption of alcohol in 
 and foreign Africa, is in eiTor ; for this reason, that the natives 
 
 alcohol. 1 p 1 T p 
 
 have lor thousands oi years prepared their own bever- 
 ages, and make themselves drunk so long as a grain of yellow 
 corn is to be had anywhere. The different sorts of native pombe 
 
USURE, AN IMPORTANT LOCALITY. 513 
 
 are certainly lighter than European brandy, and as the natives 
 have always been accustomed to put away large quantities, there 
 can be no doubt that brandy is far more injurious to them than 
 their native alcohol. 
 
 I was compelled here in Usure also, on this day, to dispense 
 with the personal acquaintance of the Sultana, formerly a friend 
 of Dr. Fischer. Her prime minister, however, who was dressed 
 altogether in red, visited me several times, enquired respecting 
 our wishes, and very readily supplied us with all sorts of 
 food. 
 
 The fever of which I had felt the premonitory symptoms 
 the day before, now broke out. The attack ^yas indeed Eeturn of 
 a slight one, and passed off on the following day ; but ^^''^^■ 
 it was tiresome, nevertheless, as it had reduced the bodily 
 strength I was only just regaining. 
 
 In Usure also I determined to enter upon a treaty, by which 
 the Sultana acknowledged our supremacy, and to hoist our flag. 
 This was done on May 29th, 1890. On a height, visible from 
 afar, the black, white, and red flag was displayed, and greeted 
 by three volleys from three Somalis. 
 
 The importance of Usure, for the development of the caravan 
 road opened up by me, is similar to that of north importance 
 Iramba. Caravans coming from either side can here °* '''"'^^• 
 recover from the fatigues of the march across the steppe, and 
 take in a fresh stock of provisions. 
 
 When we were just about to make a start, I was informed 
 that Mandutto had disappeared. I learnt that the reason for 
 this step was that, a few days previously, he had 
 wounded his wife — a young and very handsome Galla- partureof 
 woman — in the hip with a knife. In consequence of 
 this she was unable to march any further with us, and Man- 
 dutto would not leave her behind. Negroes are all very faithful 
 to their wives and sweethearts, a fact I was able to verify during 
 my entire journey. So far as regarded Mandutto, I was sorry 
 he had not spoken to me about it, for I would willingly have 
 paid him his well-earned wages, and I now had porters in abun- 
 dance at my command. It was a great sacrifice on the part of 
 
 33 
 
514 A^EW LIGHT Oy DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the intelligent fellow, who forfeited his whole pay in order to 
 remain with his sick wife. 
 
 On Majf 31st we left Usure, and once more made our wa)^ 
 into the bush. The Sultana had presented me with three oxen, 
 Departure which I had taken with us, intending to have one killed 
 from TTsure. gygj.y sccoud day. Besides these, I also provided myself 
 with eighteen fowls, which were carried in baskets for us, as 
 well as several sheep, that were driven. I may mention, by 
 the way, that the food for these fowls gave out in the desert. 
 In order, at any rate, to preserve some of them for our use, I 
 Ouroanni- thereupon adopted the somewhat original method of 
 T)ai fowls, having two fowls killed, cooked, and chopped up every 
 day as food for the rest ; by which measure our stock indeed 
 rapidly dwindled, but nevertheless lasted us for the march 
 through the steppe. Sometimes, too, the fowls were fed with 
 scraps of mutton cutlets. 
 
 On the day we started, I had to break our march near a pool 
 of water we found in the forest, as Herr von Tiedemann once 
 „ more fell seriously ill. He was again attacked by 
 
 Herr von _ •' _ ° •' 
 
 Tiedemaim's dysentery, which, especially on the first day, assumed a 
 truly alarming character, so that I feared the worst. 
 He had faithfully gone through all the fatigues and dangers of 
 the expedition with me ; I could not bear the thought that I 
 might lose him on the last stage of it. 
 
 To give him a little rest, I remained encamped in the forest 
 on June 1st. In these last days I had entirely recovered from 
 A day's Hiy last attack of fever, by sleeping, literally, day and 
 T^st- night. On that June 1st I slept nineteen hours out 
 
 of the twenty-four, the remaining five being seriously devoted to 
 the taking of nourishment. 
 
 On June 2nd I started, a man completely refreshed, but Herr 
 von Tiedemann was so weak that he could hardly keep up with 
 -Hammock the expedition. In consequence, I ordered Salim and 
 travelling, ^^e Waugwaua, in the evening, to make him a comfort- 
 able hammock, and persuaded him to make use of it from that 
 time forth, taking care to appoint four sturdy Wasukuma to act 
 as his bearers. Thanks to his strong constitution, which time 
 
UWERI-WEBI AND ITS INHABITANTS. 515 
 
 after time shook off the attacks of illness, his health gradually 
 improved under these circumstances, so that he was fairly con- 
 valescent on arriving at Mpuapua, where Emin Pasha prescribed 
 more effectual remedies for him. 
 
 Thus we journeyed onward through the arid steppe, ever in 
 a southerly direction. We had always to march until past noon 
 before we came to water, but still we found some every day, 
 although we were compelled every now and then to dig for it. 
 Three or four wells along this route would be quite 
 sufficient to make it practicable all the year round, and able and 
 this would mean a shortening of the way, to the saving °'""^*^°"*^' 
 of nine days in the journey between the coast and Lake Victoria. 
 The road is even and good, although occasionally rendered some- 
 what difficult on account of brushwood, and beasts of burden can 
 also find ample fodder. Therefore I think this route has a future 
 before it. 
 
 On June 6th, after a long day's march, we at length reached 
 the district of Uweri-weri, which Dr. Fischer, so late as in 1886, 
 had found still in a flourishing condition, but which 
 
 The dis- 
 
 was now entirely devastated by the Massais. Instead of trict of 
 prosperous settlements, we found a wilderness, and what ^^«"-'"^"- 
 had once been corn-fields was already choked with brushwood. 
 Only a few miserable ruins remained of the villages, and no 
 human being inhabited the desolate land. The same indigna- 
 tion that had possessed me on the Angata na Nyuki now again 
 stirred within me, against these barbarians of the tablelands, 
 and I sincerely regretted that our old friends did not here make 
 another attempt to try their strength with us. I established 
 our camp just below a hilly ridge, from whence, however, we 
 had an open view of the desert Massai steppe. The day was grey 
 and dreary ; an unpleasant wind swept across the steppe, and 
 I sat, in much depression of mind, in the midst of the desolation 
 around us. Water was only to be found in dirty pools. I 
 ordered the tents to be pitched, and was gi-eatly rejoiced at the 
 arrival, an hour later, of Herr von Tiedemann, who was carried 
 along in his hammock ; he had borne the fatigues of the day 
 better than I had expected. 
 
516 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 For the first time for several days we took our supper 
 together. On leaving my tent, when the meal was over, to give 
 A strange some Orders, I perceived that the western sky was- 
 pheno*^ illumined by a most peculiar red, which, at so late an 
 menon. hour, hardly appeared to me to be caused by the sun. 
 I called to Herr von Tiedemann to come out. He now told me 
 that during the afternoon he had several times fancied he heard 
 the booming of cannon, which appeared to proceed from the 
 west. This excited our imagination to all kinds of conjectures. 
 Could the struggle between our countrymen and the Arabs have 
 extended so far to the west ? Could measures have been taken 
 to occupy Tabora, in order there also to make a clean sweep of 
 the Arab rabble ; a step which we already considered necessary 
 when at Lake Victoria ? But Hussein, whom I questioned 
 respecting the redness of the sky, destroyed the illusion by 
 soberly declaring that the light came from the sun, which, 
 although it seemed very extraordinary after seven o'clock in the 
 evening, was not impossible. 
 
 On the following morning we left Uweri-weri, and pro- 
 ceeded southwards, continually through bushland, arriving be- 
 tween ten and eleven o'clock at Kabaragas, which is inhabited 
 by the tribes of the Wakimbu. The place lies in a hollow, and 
 the people, full of eager curiosity, ran out from behind the red 
 clay walls as we descended the slope. Friendship was quickly 
 In Kabara established between us ; the camp was pitched to the 
 gas;excit- west of the village, and food of every kind provided. 
 For the first time for a week we were again among 
 strangers. The people at once reported to me : " A week ago 
 three messengers of the Badutschi, from Mpuapua, passed along, 
 the Usonga road ; they are said to be carrying letters for the 
 white man who is coming from Uganda." These tidings were 
 afterwards confirmed to me at Mpuapua. The gentlemen of the 
 Mission had wished to send me a friendly welcome, and also- 
 news from Europe. Unfortunately these tidings failed to reach 
 me, because — what no one in Mpuapua could have foreseen — 
 I had marched through the Wembaere desert, and not by way 
 of Unjamwesi. These letters only came into my hands ia 
 
UGOGO;—AN ARAB TRADER. 517 
 
 Germany, several months later. This was the more to be 
 regretted, as they would have spared me much of the anxiety 
 I experienced, even in Ugogo, respecting our possible reception 
 on the coast. 
 
 On June 8th we at length entered the country of Ugogo. 
 Towards one o'clock we arrived at the town and district of 
 Muhalala in 5° 47' S. lat., situated three thousand four District of 
 hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. To '^^''^°- 
 those coming hither from the north this country lies extended 
 in a charming prospect in the hollow. Before us, to the south, 
 rise the mountains of Bunduko, and on the left are other dark 
 ridges. These are the Bachi Mountains. To judge by 
 the maps, one would imagine the whole of Ugogo land aspect of 
 to be a flat savannah plateau. Doubtless this arises from ^^°^°' 
 the fact, that every traveller considers Ugogo to be so well known, 
 that it is unnecessary to give any details about it. The conse- 
 quence is that the map of this country is particularly inexact. 
 
 That day I pitched my camp in an enclosed space on the 
 
 northern slope, just above the villages. We had a splendid view 
 
 over the whole surrounding country. I had scarcely established 
 
 myself comfortably in my tent, when Salim arrived with the 
 
 announcement that two Germans had encamped down below at 
 
 Muhalala, who were on their way from Tabora to Mpuapua. 
 
 I immediately sent off a letter to these reported white . 
 
 ■' ^ An ex- 
 
 men, by some of my Somalis. My messengers re- aggerated 
 
 rfiTiort 
 
 turned in about an hour's time, and said : " There 
 is only one traveller down below, instead of two. This one 
 does not belong to any expedition, but is alone ; nor is he 
 a European, but an Arab, and he is not going to Mpuapua, but 
 to Irangi." Here was another proof of the amount of reliance 
 that, generally speaking, may be placed on the communications 
 of black men. 
 
 In point of fact, the man in question was the Arab 
 Mohammed Bin Omari, one of the great Tabora ^^^^ ^^^^ 
 Arabs ; he possessed places of business in Irangi, trader, Bin 
 and was now following his caravan thither, for the 
 purpose of sending the ivory stored up there to the coast. 
 
518 i\EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 From all I have heard about Irangi in these latter days, 
 I cannot but think that this country has perhaps a future before 
 it. Like Iramba, it appears to be a damp oasis in the water- 
 lacking desert, and I was informed that its inhabitants were 
 "good," from which it may be concluded that there are no 
 Massais dwelling in it. The inhabitants are probably of the 
 same race that we met with in Iramba, who are closely related 
 to the Wagogo. 
 
 Mohammed Bin Omari arrived at my tent after breakfast, 
 to pay his respects to me, and to bring me tribute. 
 Interview " Come nearer," I said, on his appearing with some 
 ta^^d' of his followers at the entrance of my tent. " You 
 Bin Omari. gome from Tabora ? " 
 
 "I come from Tabora," he replied, "and am going to 
 Irangi." 
 
 " Well, how are things looking in Tabora ? Do you Arabs 
 there wish to have war upon the Germans, or do you prefer to 
 have peace ? " 
 
 " We Arabs of Tabora wish to have peace, and have already 
 sent this message to the coast." 
 
 " Well, that is right. I think, too, that it is the very best 
 thing for your own interest, for you must have understood that 
 you are not able to fight against the Germans. You will have 
 heard that my brothers have defeated Bushiri. We, on our 
 part, have defeated the tribes in the north, the Gallas and 
 Massais, and have come down from Uganda." 
 
 "What tidings do you bring from Uganda ? " 
 
 " In Uganda the Arabs have been beaten just the same as 
 in the east. They have all been killed, or have been obliged to 
 Achieve ^^® ^^ Unjoro. The Christians rule in Uganda, and if 
 ments of the the Arabs wish to carry on trade there again, thev will 
 
 Badntschi. , ^ n • . . .1 V.i ■ • 1 m, 
 
 have to submit to the Christians there too. The war 
 is at an end ; you are beaten at all points, and it is to be hoped 
 you will not be unwise enough again to begin fighting against 
 the Badutschi." 
 
 " The war is at an end," repeated Mohammed Bin Omari, 
 " and we, all of us, wish for peace. Pray make our peace with 
 
MOHAMifED BIN OM ART'S INFORMATION. 519 
 
 Uganda. The news about you has already reached us in Tabora, 
 and we know that you can also procure peace for us at Lake 
 Victoria." 
 
 "I must first learn what are the commands of the great 
 Sultan of the Badutschi. If he wishes it, then I shall be quite 
 ready to make your peace with Uganda." 
 
 " Will you not, then, give me a letter to show that I am the 
 friend of the Germans, and wish to have peace with them ? " 
 
 " Such a letter I will willingly give you, but know that it 
 depends entirely upon your own behaviour whether 
 you will permanently remain the friend of the Germans of friend"* 
 or not. Our eyes are sharp, and we soon find out if °^^^' 
 any one is acting honestly by us, or wishes to play us false." 
 
 Mohammed Bin Omari now presented me with a few sheep, 
 some rice, honey, and milk. Then he inquired, — 
 
 " Is there anything else that you require me to do ? If so, 
 let me know ; I will give you all you demand. You perhaps 
 wish for stuffs or beads ? " 
 
 " No, thank you. I want neither cloth nor beads, but give 
 me accurate information concerning the condition of Ugogo. 
 How many days' journey have we to Mpuapua ? " 
 
 " You will want nine or ten days to get to Mpuapua, if you 
 march well." 
 
 " Shall we have war on the road ? " 
 
 " No war as far as Nsagara, if you pay tribute to Makenge." 
 " I am a German, and pay no tribute. I paid no tribute to 
 the Massais, and I expect of Makenge that he will not come to 
 us with any demand for tribute. Then, farewell ! " 
 
 When we descended the slope the next morning, and marched 
 past Muhalala, we found Mohammed Bin Omari standing by 
 the wayside, with some of his followers, to greet us once jjoj^^^j^^gj 
 more, and to make me further presents of rice, sugar, Bin omari-s 
 milk, and sheep. It must be said of the Arabs that 
 they are most polite and respectful in their manners, and their 
 behaviour shows more refinement than is found in the majority 
 of the white race. 
 
 I now continued to advance towards the east. At ten o'clock 
 
520 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 there suddenly opened upon my astonished gaze a far-stretching 
 region, lying considerably below us, bordered in the distant 
 east by blue mountains. This was the land of Ugogo proper, 
 and the rocky incline before which we stood Mas no other than 
 the southern spur of the skirting range of Mau, which we had 
 climbed months previously at Elgejo. The eye rested delight- 
 edly upon the flat country lying in the valley, that spread out 
 before us like a sea covered with ice and snow. 
 
 The difficulty now was to find a place where we might 
 descend. But the Wagogo, who stood around, pointed out the 
 way, and Avith some trouble the column, as well as the beasts of 
 burden, were successfully transported to the foot of the moun- 
 The Kiiima tain in the course of an hour. This mountain ridge is 
 Tindi ridge, galled in Ugogo Kiiima Tindi. The mountain ridges, 
 shining with bluish tints on the distant horizon, belonged to 
 the Marenga Mkali, or to the western boundary of Mpuapua. 
 Salim, who was well acquainted with the country, pointed out 
 all this to me. My troop of Wanjamwesi and Manyema broke 
 into loud shouts of rejoicing on seeing before them the Ugogo 
 they knew so well. 
 
 We now proceeded eastwards until past midday. The sun 
 
 shone hotly down upon us. Stanley calls Ugogo a garden, and 
 
 regrets that he is unable to have a hand in cultivating 
 
 Deceptive ° . 
 
 appear- it as such. He would probably experience a great dis- 
 appointment if he attempted to do so. This supposed 
 garden, more than any other country in Eastern Africa, is simply 
 a dry savannah, in which the watercourses themselves contain 
 water only in the rainy season, and where even those expeditions 
 which, like our own, traverse the country immediately after the 
 rainy season have continually to combat against the drought. 
 
 The river Bubo, flowing from the north to Ugogo, and form- 
 ing part of the Rufidschi water system, was already, by the 
 A dry arid middle of Juuc, entirely dried up, and we had to'dig for 
 region. ^yater in its bed. Out of such a country no garden 
 could be made ; cattle-breeding alone is possible, and the culti- 
 vation of maize and corn only in a very limited area, in particular 
 positions. Of all the countries through which we travelled 
 
CUARAClEBmriC^ OF riJE WAGOGO. 
 
 i21 
 
 Ugogo is the ugliest, and, I may add, the most re]iiilsivc' ; and 
 the disposition of the people is in keeping with the character of 
 the conTitr3\ The Wagogo are originally of Bantu race, but 
 
 if . 
 
 View op the Plaix of U&ogo, 
 
 NEAK MTIVE. 
 
 apparentl_y have a con- 
 siderable admixture of 
 Massai blood. Like the 
 Massais, they are arrogant and 
 addicted to thieving. They 
 look upon strangers simply as 
 enemies ; and as for thousands of 
 ,years traffic has taken its course 
 through their land, they have estaTjlished 
 for themselves a predaceous custom of exacting tribute, under 
 which all the trade caravans have to suffer grievously. 
 
 In his work "In Darkest Africa," vol. ii., p. 40G, Stanley 
 
522 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 thus complains, in a somewhat sentimental strain : — " There is 
 no countr}' in Africa that has excited greater interest in me 
 than this. It is a ferment of trouble and distraction, and a 
 vermin of petty annoyances beset the traveller from day to day 
 while in it. No natives know so well how to aggrieve and be 
 unpleasant to travellers. One would think there was a school 
 somewhere in Ugogo to teach low cunning and vicious malice to 
 the chiefs, who are masters in foxy-craft. Nineteen years ago 
 I looked upon this land and people with desiring eyes. I saw in 
 it a field worth some effort to reclaim. In six months I felt 
 sure Ugogo could be made lovely and orderly, a blessing to the 
 inhabitants and to strangers, without any very great expense or 
 trouble ; it would become a pleasant highway of human inter- 
 course with far-away peoples, productive of wealth to the natives, 
 and comfort to caravans. I learned, on arrival in Ugogo, that 
 I was for ever debarred from the hope. It is to be the destiny 
 of the Germans to carry out this work, and I envy them. It is 
 the worst news of all that I shall never be able to drain this 
 cesspool of iniquitous passion, and extinguish the insolence of 
 Wagogo chiefs, and make the land clean, healthy, and even 
 beautiful of view. While my best wishes will accompany 
 German efforts, my mind is clouded with a doubt that it ever 
 will be that fair land of rest and welcome I had dreamed of 
 making it." 
 
 What a pity for Ugogo that Stanley cannot carry out his 
 plans respecting this country ! It would indeed be an enormous 
 Lost oppor- advantage for the whole of Eastern Africa if the cara- 
 tunities. -^-g^^g^ instead of passing through an entirely dried-up 
 savannah at the back of Usagara, could make their way through 
 a verdant and flourishing garden. Certainly Mr. Stanley had a 
 capital opportunity offered him " to extinguish the insolence of 
 Wagogo chiefs " when he last traversed this country, and it is 
 only to be regretted that he took no advantage of it. 
 
 On June 9th we found ourselves in the western part of 
 Makeiige's country, and on this day I set up the camp at 
 Mtive, once again in an encampment that had been occupied by 
 Mr. Stokes. When Stanley passed through Makenge's country 
 
3rB. STANLEY IN UGOGO. 523 
 
 nine months previously the latter had sent to him with the 
 request that he should pay tribute immediately, ihedis- 
 Stanley, at the head of one thousand men, and possess- ^fggtiMi of 
 ing a Maxim gun, could have utilised this excellent tribute, 
 occasion " to extinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs," for a 
 demand of this kind for tribute, in the face of so strong an 
 expedition commanded by nine white men, may well be called 
 insolence. 
 
 Instead of setting to work " ta drain this cesspool of ini- 
 quitous passion," however, Stanley sent Makenge the accustomed 
 tribute paid by caravans. But with this Makenge was 
 not satisfied. He returned the simple tribute, and now and 
 demanded of Stanley that he should give him up his ^'^ ^^' 
 men for feudal labour. He desired Stanley to have a fortified 
 camp built for him. 
 
 Here was the second opportunity for Mr. Stanley " to ex- 
 tinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs." He was certainly 
 suflBciently angry at this demand of Makenge's, but instead of 
 refusing it, and waiting for the consequences, he considered it 
 the wiser course to give way, and sent Makenge four times the 
 usual tribute, with which the latter was graciously pleased to 
 declare himself satisfied. 
 
 This small episode, which took place during Stanley's sojourn 
 in Ugogo, is not related by him, and I only mention it to make 
 the following circumstances more intelligible. 
 
 It is as clear as possible that if an expedition of the strength 
 of Stanley's in Ugogo consented to pay tribute, one ^^^^^^^_ 
 could scarcely expect either great respect or correspond- payers not 
 
 */ ■*- (_/-»- 1*681] BClJSCl 
 
 ing humility towards the white race from the people of 
 
 the land. Accordingly, what happened to us in this country is 
 
 not in any way to be wondered at. 
 
 We were still sitting at breakfast, when some rascally 
 Wagogo began to crowd round our tent, and one of them placed 
 himself rudely in front of the entrance. On my requesting 
 him to be off", he grinned impudently, but remained where he 
 was. Hereupon Herr von Tiedemann, who sat nearest to the 
 door, sprang from his seat, seized the fellow, and flung him on 
 
524 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 one side. I too jumped up, and called out to Hussein to lay 
 hold of him, and to teach him a lesson with the hippo- 
 the^wa^ ° potamus-hide whip. This was done amidst howls of 
 ^"^"^ lamentation, whilst the Wangwana informed us that the 
 offender was the son of the Sultan of the country. Whilst this 
 Avas going on there arose, to the north of the camp, the war-cry 
 of the Wagogo, which we knew so well. These people had 
 driven away my men from the water because I had paid no 
 tribute, and now came rushing towards the camp. I im- 
 mediately betook myself to the north side of it, and saw how 
 the Wagogo warriors, armed for the most part each with two 
 lances, came dancing along, challenging us to fight. 
 
 As they began to shoot their arrows at us, I fired amongst 
 them, knocking one over, and hitting another in the arm. 
 They now took to headlong flight, and immediately some 
 check to of the chiefs came to me to open peace negotiations, 
 insolence. ,pj^^ debate upou these continued all the afternoon, and 
 in the evening it was at last decided to send messengers to 
 Makenge, to whose capital we were to march on the following 
 day, and to leave the settling of the matter to him. 
 
 I stationed twelve sentries to guard the camp during the 
 „ ^ night, and the following morning set out, with beat of 
 
 Harch to- ~ ' ° . 
 
 wards the drum, On our march eastward, passing great crowds 
 of the Wagogo as we went. Our way led through an 
 almost dried-up river, into the country of Unjanguira. At 
 eleven o'clock we came to a well-cultivated territory, which 
 strongly reminded me of the country bordering Lake Moris, 
 near Alexandria. I remarked that large bodies of men were 
 running about behind the maize fields, and was further dis- 
 agreeably impressed by the hyena-like howl of the Wagogo, in 
 which I plainly recognised a war-cry. 
 
 When we had pursued our way through the maize fields 
 lying east of the villages, I suddenly became aware of several 
 hundred Wagogo warriors, who were kneeling by the left side of 
 the road, with bows bent and lances ready for battle, and one 
 of the chiefs came running towards us, shouting in impudent 
 tones the demand for tribute ("Mahongo! Mahongo ! "). 
 
STRAINED RELATIONS WITH THE WAGOGO. 525 
 
 My contempt for these rascals had been increased by the 
 occurrences of the previous day. I handed my gun 
 
 1,1. 1 , 1 . , . Renewed 
 
 to my servant, and, taking my long knotted stick m demand of 
 my hand, made straight for the Wagogo, calling out *^^ ^'^' 
 to them : — 
 
 "Take yourselves off from here, and mind what you are 
 about ! " 
 
 They all rose, and moved slowly away. I then marched to 
 an encampment in the south of Makenge's capital, and imme- 
 diately sent a message to the Sultan, requesting him to put 
 himself in communication with me, as I desired to know whether 
 he wished for war or peace. 
 
 The messengers returned with their commission unexecuted.^ 
 They had been warned by a caravan of Wanjamwesi, encamped 
 in the vicinity, not to enter Makenge's capital, where, they 
 declared, thousands of warriors were collected to attack us. 
 To be prepared for this emergency, as I was almost jj^j^ggj^jf^ 
 without ammunition for my muzzle-loaders, I sent in ammuni- 
 all haste for the only load of wire I had brought with 
 me on the expedition, had it filed into pieces, and distributed 
 these among my men. We then seated ourselves for breakfast, 
 during which messengers, sent from the Wanjamwesi caravan,, 
 appeared to offer us their friendship. 
 
 Whilst I was speaking to them messengers suddenly arrived 
 from Makenge. 
 
 " Our Sultan sends you word that he wishes for peace with 
 you. He wishes to be the friend of the Germans, and you are 
 to pay no tribute in his country." 
 
 "Tell your Sultan," I replied, "if he desires to be the 
 friend of the Germans, and our friend, he must ex- jj^^g^g^.^ 
 change presents with me. Let him send me corn and mesaenger 
 
 ° ^ , , ^ „ rebuked. 
 
 honey, and I will give him powder and cloth stutts. 
 
 We were still in conversation, when the clatter of guns, pro- 
 ceeding from the west of our camp, again near the water, 
 suddenly resounded. In wild haste my men came rushing to 
 the camp from that direction. Seizing my double-barrelled, 
 gun, I stepped forth from my tent, and cried, — 
 
.526 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 " Where are the Wagogo ? " 
 
 " There, and there, and there ! From every side they 
 come ! '' 
 
 And so it was. From every direction I could see the 
 Wagogo in croAvds dancing forward. 
 
 This sight so roused my anger that I cried out to my men : 
 
 " Dererah, Somal ! " ( " Fight, Somalis ! ") " To your guns, 
 War with SOUS of the Unjamwesi, sons of Usukuma, and sons of 
 thewagogo.jyja^jjyej^a I Forward ! Down with the Wagogo ! " 
 
 The plan of action was soon settled. A few of the Somalis 
 had to protect the east and north side of the camp. To the 
 west and south, from whence the chief attack proceeded, I 
 hastened forward with ahout twenty men to oppose the enemy. 
 Herr von Tiedemann was at first at my side, hut I ordered him 
 back to the eastern side. 
 
 The Wagogo, between two and three thousand strong, accord- 
 ing to Von Tiedemann's computation, and many of them armed 
 with muzzle-loaders, began the attack. An unfortunate circum- 
 stance for me was that my men could only shoot at 
 Tinder diffi- short distances with those wretched pieces of wire, which 
 somewhat lessened the superiority of our firearms. My 
 double-barrelled gun, however, and the repeating guns of the 
 Somalis, maintained their usual efficiency. In accordance with 
 my old Massai tactics, I gave orders to fire several volleys, so 
 as to begin by knocking down some of their warriors. With 
 loud cheers we then advanced, but in such a way as to carefully 
 watch the movements of our adversaries, and when they halted 
 we halted too, and fired upon them again. 
 
 The sun shone fiercely, but in half an hour the Wagogo had 
 been repulsed from the camp towards the south and west ; and 
 now I sent a message to Herr von Tiedemann, requesting him 
 to remain in camp and guard it, as I intended to advance 
 against the villages situated about half a mile to the southward, 
 and there to attack the Wagogo in my turn. I was in the act 
 of carrying out this intention, and was pushing forward against 
 the villages, when I was suddenly met by messengers from 
 Makenge. 
 
PUNISHMENT OF THE WAGOGO. 527 
 
 " The Sultan wishes for peace with you, and will pay you 
 tribute in ivory and oxen." 
 
 I replied, " The Sultan shall have peace. It shall sues for °'" 
 be the eternal peace. I will show the Wagogo what the ^^*''^" 
 Germans are." 
 
 So I advanced against the first village, where the Wagogo at 
 first tried to defend themselves ; but after several of them had 
 been shot down, they rushed in wild flight out at the south gate, 
 and the village was in our hands. 
 
 "Plunder the village, set fire to the houses, and smash 
 everything to pieces that will not burn ! " 
 
 But unfortunately it soon became apparent that the Wagogo 
 villages themselves do not burn easily, being composed of 
 wooden buildings covered with clay, with a circular „ . 
 
 ^ •' ' Burning of 
 
 enclosure around them. I ordered large quantities of wagogo 
 wood to be placed in the houses, which were systemati- " ^^^^' 
 cally set on fire. The axes that I sent for to the camp did their 
 work also in knocking down the walls, so the first village was 
 soon in ruins. Whilst this work was proceeding I placed three 
 Somalis as a guard on the south side, and frightened away the 
 Wagogo with my shots. 
 
 Meanwhile, I sent off a message to the neighbouring 
 Wanjamwesi caravan, with which we had already concluded 
 terms of friendship : " Come and help us. If we capture the 
 herds of the Wagogo you shall have a share of the booty." 
 
 This was between two and three in the afternoon. The 
 Wanjamwesi, however, did not probably feel very confident about 
 the matter, for they did not appear upon the scene of the a renewed 
 encounter until five o'clock. Now Hussein called out ^^^™'- 
 to me : " Master, come ! the Wagogo are attacking the camp ! " 
 
 I answered, " I will show you how to drive the Wagogo 
 away from the camp." 
 
 We crept through the maize fields, and suddenly began to 
 fire upon the hordes, who were rushing on from the east cowardice 
 in flank and in rear. They fled wildly, scattering in of the ^ 
 every direction. My contempt for the Wagogo was so 
 great, that during this fight I said repeatedly to my men, " I 
 
.yjs 
 
 .v/:ir Ljnirr ax dark africa. 
 
 will prove to you what kind of rascals we liave lo deal willi. 
 Stay, all ol' you, where you are, and I will alone drive the 
 Wag'oso away." T went towards the Wagogo, shouted "Hurrah ! " 
 aud away they ran hx huiulreds. 
 
 I uii'Ution this, not to represent our advance as anything 
 
 UesTEUCTIOX <JI the \VAIt()(,i) 
 YlLLAr,ES. 
 
 heroic, hut only to show what 
 
 all tills African population 
 
 really is, and how exaggerated 
 
 are the ideas which exist in Euro])e 
 
 concerning their warlike capabilities 
 
 and the means necessary for 'their 
 
 subjugation. The Wagogo are considered one ol' the trilie? 
 
 most to be dreaded in the whole of the German East Africar 
 
 Protectorate, before whom the Wangwana of the coast tremble 
 
 on entering their country ; and yet we were able, Avith bac 
 
 ammunition and only twenty men, to send thousands of then 
 
 scamperinii'. 
 
 From three in the afternoon I advanced against the otliei 
 
THE WANJAMWE8I :—A CATTLE BAID. 529 
 
 villages in the south. Everywhere the same spectacle was 
 repeated. After a short resistance the Wagogo fled in all direc- 
 tions; burning brands were thrown into the houses, and the 
 axes did their work in hewing in pieces what could not be 
 burnt. By half-past four, twelve villages were thus burnt 
 down ; but I was not in a position to seize the herds that were 
 grazing further south on a mountain slope, for I had, as a 
 rule, only six to ten men immediately around me, and I could 
 not but suppose that the Wagogo would here fight more 
 energetically. 
 
 Suddenly, at about five o'clock, I saw large numbers coming 
 hurriedly towards me, from the direction of my camp. At first 
 I took them for Wagogo, and was just on the point of 
 firing at them. But my people cried out to me, — the wan- 
 
 "The W^anjamwesi are coming ! " jamwesi. 
 
 I now called out to the Wanjamwesi, " Come on, Wanjam- 
 wesi ! Forward upon the oxen of the Wagogo ! There they are, 
 yonder ! Hurrah ! " 
 
 And off we set, rushing wildly past several villages, towards 
 the herds of oxen. The Wagogo endeavoured rapidly to drive 
 their herds away, but we succeeded in seizing two or The cattle 
 three hundred head, knocking over those of the herds- ^i*''® 
 
 ' ~ wagogo 
 
 men who did not flee. My gun had become so hot seized, 
 from frequent firing that I could scarcely hold it. The greater 
 part of the firing on that day fell to my share, as I was almost 
 the only person who possessed a sufficient supply of ammunition. 
 My burning thirst I quenched from time to time with some sour 
 milk we had seized. 
 
 The sun was sinking in the west when I at last gave the 
 order to retire. My people were so full of fighting spirit, that I 
 could scarcely prevail upon them to return. They were plun- 
 dering in the various villages, or scoffing at the Wagogo, who 
 were still either standing or lying about in the background in 
 large numbers. 
 
 At half-past five we began our return march. The cattle 
 were driven along with us, and the Wagogo followed at a 
 respectful distance, still firing upon us, until we were close 
 
 34 
 
o30 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 to our camp. But they were unable to regain possession of a 
 single head of their cattle. On the following morning, they 
 reported their loss on that afternoon as " over fifty." 
 
 When we approached the camp, Herr von Tiedemann and 
 the men there came out joyfully to meet us. 
 
 " Well, Herr von Tiedemann, I think those will last us as 
 far as Mpuapua," I said, pointing to the cattle. 
 
 We shook hands and walked towards the camp. My men 
 performed warlike and triumphal dances round the animals. 
 On entering my tent, I again quenched my thirst, this time with 
 cognac and Avater ; I then distributed the remaining powder 
 and bits of wire, and posted sentries round the camp, 
 ofsun-''™^ I experienced a peculiar heaviness in the head, from 
 stroke. running so much in the hot sun. As became manifest 
 on that very night, I had contracted an affection of the brain, 
 which made itself felt during the next few days in deafness, 
 as well as in feverish temperature and a general feeling of 
 discomfort. 
 
 Before turning back from the villages of the Wagogo, I had 
 shouted to them, — 
 
 " You now know Kupanda Sharo and the Germans a 
 little better than you did this morning ; but you shall learn to 
 Threaten- ^^^^ them in quite another fashion. I shall now 
 d^g the remain amongst you in your country, so long as a man 
 of you is alive, so long as one of your villages still 
 stands, and a single animal of your herds is to be seized ! " 
 
 A great slaughtering of cattle was now going on in the 
 camp, and a joyous spirit pervaded the men seated round the 
 camp-fires, before which reclined also the Wanjamwesi, who had 
 been invited to stay till evening. 
 
 At nine o'clock Makenge sent his sons to me. They brought 
 some ivory, representing a net value of about one thousand 
 Makenge's marks, as a first tribute, and requested to know what 
 submiflsion. ^ygj.^ ^^ conditions of peace. 
 
 " Tell your Sultan that I want no peace with him. The 
 Wagogo are liars, and must be destroyed from off the face of the 
 -earth. But if the Sultan wishes to become the slave of the 
 
CAEAVANS OF THE WANJAiVWEST AND M0HA2IMED. 531 
 
 Germans, then he and his people may live. As a proof of your 
 submission, let him send me to-morrow morning a tribute of 
 oxen, sheep, and goats, let him send me milk and honey, and 
 then we will negotiate further." 
 
 That night I fell into a heavy sleep, from which I was 
 awakened before sunrise by the lowing of cattle. Makenge had 
 sent me thirty-eight oxen, as well as a number of sheep. 
 In the course of the day, milk and honey and other sends 
 articles arrived in addition. I now consented to enter 
 into a treaty with him, by virtue of which he was placed under 
 ■German authority. I promised to send him the flag, as soon as 
 I should reach Mpuapua. 
 
 The great Wanjamwesi caravan, which was encamped in the 
 neighbourhood, sent me a deputation on that day to ^^^ ^^^ 
 say, "Be our leader; we will be your people." This jamwesi 
 •caravan numbered over twelve hundred men, and 
 possessed, amongst other advantages, a great many drummers. 
 
 Having settled everything by June 11th, we started again 
 on our eastward march on the 12th, the black, white, and red 
 flag waving gaily in the morning breeze, the drums beating 
 lustily, and the Wagogo herds in the van. Not a Wagogo was 
 to be seen in the whole country side. 
 
 We encamped this day on the banks of the Bubo river, 
 -which flows from north to south, but which was at that time 
 ■dried up, as I have already mentioned. I could By the 
 scarcely move at all, and on this day had a kind ^"'"' "''"'• 
 ■of litter constructed for myself also, in which it was my 
 intention to be carried on the morrow. After a march of some 
 seventeen miles, we reached Ungombe on June 13th. The 
 water standing here in small ponds had been rendered so dirty 
 by the drinking of herds of cattle at them, that we could not 
 make use of it even for soup. 
 
 On this day Makenge's son, who was governor here, 
 voluntarily sent me twenty oxen as tribute. Here we jj^^^^^j 
 found encamped a large Arab caravan, which was still ^^^^^'^ 
 negotiating with the Wagogo respecting tribute. It 
 was the caravan belonging to Mohammed Bin Omari, whom 
 
532 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 I had met at Muhalala. Scarceh' had they heard of our 
 arrival, when a deputation came to request that I would 
 become their leader ; the}' would be ni}' people, if I would 
 conduct them safely out of Ugogo. I accepted this proposal, 
 and thus became the commander of more than two thousand 
 men. 
 
 In the night I broke out into a healthy perspiration, which 
 brought me relief from my attack of something like a sun- 
 stroke, but on June 14th my deafness still continued. On 
 that day I did not give the order to start till the afternoon,, 
 a proceeding always to be recommended when one cannot hope 
 to reach water in a single march : the people have time to 
 cook their food in the last encampment, the animals can 
 be watered for the day, and on the second day water will be 
 reached. 
 
 On June 14th we turned slightly from our easterly course, 
 and proceeded east-north-east, to avoid the so-called Lindi 
 Circuit mountain chain. Having marched for some hours 
 Lindf*^* through forest and bush, we reached an open space, 
 mountains, gj-aggy but dry, at five o'clock. Here we encamped. 
 It was a dull evening. The wind whistled loudly, and we sat 
 in my tent feeling remarkably chilly. ,. I retired to rest in a 
 depressed state of mind, thinking of my deafness. All kinds 
 of anxious thoughts passed through my brain. What if I were 
 to become blind as well as deaf? How sad would be the 
 future before me ! I fell asleep at a late hour, and, awaking 
 about two o'clock, called to my servant to bring me 
 
 A great •' ~ 
 
 relief from something to drink. I had brought sufficient water 
 with me for Herr von Tiedemann and myself. Who 
 shall describe my feelings of joy on my distinctly hearing 
 Buana Mku's answer, and recognising that my deafness had 
 entirely left me, for I could hear as well as ever ! 
 
 I started, in consequence, early the next morning, in the 
 brightest spirits ; leaving the Lindi chain far behind us, we 
 reached Matako. It was said to be a twelve hours' march from 
 here to Msanga, the nearest place where water was to be had. I 
 therefore determined to alter our ordinary method of proceeding,. 
 
EMIN PASHA REPORTED AT 2IPUAPUA. 533 
 
 and gave orders for marching at midnight, that I might reach 
 Msanga at noon on the following day. We certainly 
 
 ... An early 
 
 overslept ourselves and missed the midnight horn-, so start for 
 that we could not leave Matako before three a.m.; but °*"^^' 
 as the distance proved to comprise a march of only ten hours 
 instead of twelve, we reached our destination soon after 
 midday. 
 
 These night marches possessed one advantage, in that I 
 could comfortably be carried over the ground in a litter, a pro- 
 ceeding for which in the daytime I had never patience, even 
 when I felt unwell. When morning dawned, I generally called 
 a halt in some camping-ground, and set tire to the straw huts, at 
 which we warmed ourselves, and in the glow of which we par- 
 took of our breakfast. Then came the best part of our march. 
 During a few hours thereupon the donkeys were requisitioned, 
 and, as the country bordering the west of Ugogo became gradu- 
 ally more fertile and attractive, that march to Msanga was one 
 of the pleasantest during the whole of our return journey. 
 
 At Msanga we found a great Wanjamwesi caravan, that had 
 come from^Mpuapua. The chiefs immediately came a caravan 
 to salute me. They carried the German flag, and German^^ 
 gave us some news from the coast, though their tidings ^^•s- 
 were somewhat confused. 
 
 " We had heard that you had defeated the Massais, and now 
 the Germans are waiting for you at Mpuapua. There, ^.^.^^^ 
 too, is Min Pasha, who has brought loads for you, and of Emin 
 with whom you are to return to the Nyanza." 
 
 " Do you mean to tell me that Emin Pasha is at Mpuapua .P" 
 
 " Yes, in Mpuapua is Min Pasha, and they have cattle as 
 the sand. There is a large house of stone." 
 
 These tidings were so altogether surprising, that they fur- 
 nished subject for conjecture and conversation during the whole 
 day, and yet, in my inmost heart, I was little disposed to credit 
 them. I expected to find, as usual, that it would turn out to 
 be some mistake. But this time I was to find myself in the 
 wrong. 
 
 June 17th brought us but a short march. We now entered 
 
534 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 the countrj' of Mahamba, and reached a place called, after the 
 Sultan, Yagallo. Kwam Yagallo is situated on the south-western 
 Arrival ^^°P® °^ ^^^ Pauieda hills, that separate Ugogo proper 
 atKwam from Marenga Mkali, and which we had to march 
 *^°' ' round on the southern side. Here we found a number 
 of caravans, which had come from the east under the German 
 flag. The camp was pitched near a watercourse, whose contents, 
 though somewhat brackish, were drinkable. Marenga Mkali 
 means " salt water," and takes its name from the mineral nature 
 of the waters in this district. 
 
 Hardly had the tents been pitched, when my people suddenly 
 Appearance reported, " Massais ! Massais ! " 
 
 ofMassaiB. g^^g euough, on the other side of the camp, were 
 the Massais, driving their herds to the river to water them. 
 Here they were again at last, our good old friends ; certainly 
 a little more slovenly in appearance than the proud sons of 
 Leikipia. The Massais here, in northern Ugogo, also till the 
 soil, and have certainly a little degenerated through the admix- 
 ture of Bantu blood ; but in outward appearance, and especially 
 in the way in which they were armed, they bore a strong 
 resemblance to their brothers of the north. 
 
 " Come, over to this side of the river," I shouted to them. 
 " Bring me presents, and you shall receive presents from me." 
 
 " "Who are you ? " they replied. 
 " Kupanda " I am Kupauda Sharo, and we have defeated the 
 quaintlnM ' Massais of Leikipia." 
 declined. u ^^ . g^g^y y^^ ^p^^ ^^^^ g^^j^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^j^ remain 
 
 upon this side. We are afraid to come over." 
 
 This open declaration was received by my people with a roar 
 of laughter ; but, inviting as the fine herds of Massai cattle 
 were to the Somalis and to ourselves, I considered it more 
 prudent to refrain from attacking the Massais on the other side. 
 By two o'clock they had marched away again into the steppe 
 with their herds. 
 
 That night we were really on the march soon after mid- 
 night. We were going into the Marenga Mkali country, and 
 had left a long stretch behind us before daybreak. After we 
 
THE MARENGA MKALI ;—KA2rPI. 535 
 
 had breakfasted we once more pushed on, and we entered the 
 mountain district that separates Ugogo from Usagora, The 
 our road winding through attractive scenery, over easy ^klii^^ 
 mountain passes. We were repeatedly met by caravans country. 
 of Wanjamwesi, who greeted us with a respectful " Jambo " 
 or " Morning." At times the view opened into the Massai 
 steppe on the left. Once, an eminence was pointed out to me 
 by Salim, on the north-eastern horizon, as Kilima Ndscharo, but 
 1 cannot undertake to say if he was right. 
 
 All that morning we marched through glorious mountain 
 scenery. The air was cool, for a breeze in the valleys continually 
 refreshed us. We came upon great herds of giraffes and zebras. 
 Thus we continued our march until mid-day. Here the road 
 wound down a far-stretching mountain slope to the left. We 
 turn off towards the north, and see before us a narrow mountain 
 pass ; the sides of the hills are clothed with fields of Arrival at 
 maize and mtama. We are at Kampi, the Marenga ^ampi. 
 Mkali lies behind us, and we have only one short day's march to 
 get to the German station in Mpuapua. Here, too, we found 
 more caravans encamped. The traffic all along this route is 
 very considerable. I know no German high-road on which 
 there is such a regular and uninterrupted personal and vehicular 
 traffic, back and forwards, as upon this caravan route from 
 Ugogo to the coast. The number of people who annually pass 
 this way must be reckoned by hundreds of thousands. 
 
 On arriving at Kampi my first proceeding was to write a 
 letter and send it by some messengers to "The gentlemen at the 
 station in Mpuapua," telling them that I should arrive there at 
 half-past ten on the following morning. 
 
 The water was more than two miles distant from our camp, 
 so on that day we had to wait until evening before we could get 
 a meal. After supper, so strong a wind blew from the ^ ^^^^^^^_ 
 east, through the valley where we were encamped, that ^^^^^^^""^^ 
 the tent soon began to bend to one side, and was twice 
 blown down. As there was not the least prospect of the-wind 
 lulling during the night, I had to make up my mind to have 
 my camp bed placed in th« open air, sheltered only by a few 
 
J36 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 bushes, and there to compose myself to sleep ; but I slept none 
 the less sound]_y after all, for the fatigues of the previous night 
 and of the da}- had thoroughly exhausted me. 
 
 And now the day was breaking for our last march before 
 meeting with German countrymen. Full of excited expectation 
 ^. , ^ , we started, first to climb the mountain pass before 
 
 Pmal day's ' ^ 
 
 march to us, from wheuce, we were told, the valley of Mpuapua 
 ^" ' was to be seen. I hastened onwards with a few men 
 of the column. The descent was an easy one. The bush 
 gradually developed into a forest, and we continued to proceed 
 further towards the east. All at once, soldiers in the uniform 
 of the German protecting troop met us, and saluted us. Con- 
 sequently we must now be close to the station. There — one 
 more turn of the road, and on the heights ot Mpuapua we 
 descried the black, white, and red flag. 
 
 Our hearts beat higher at this sight, and, in a state of 
 
 joyful excitement, we pursued the path, which wound round 
 
 . , the north side of the station. Meanwhile we must 
 
 Friends at 
 
 the German have been seen from thence, for, behold, some gentle- 
 station. . T r. ,, , 
 
 men issued irom the gateway. 
 
 Soon, one of them, who was mounted on a donkey, galloped 
 quickly towards me. He jumped down, and, taking off his hat, 
 greeted me warmly. This was Herr Janke. Behind him came 
 two gentlemen on foot. These were the officer in charge of 
 the station. Lieutenant von Billow, and Lieutenant Langheld. 
 " Emin Pasha is here, also." A gentleman under the middle 
 height, wearing a simple blue uniform and helmet, now came 
 forward. A black beard framed in a face whose deep 
 wrinkles told of long-continued mental strain. This was 
 Emin Pasha ! 
 
 "May I introduce Dr. Peters to your Excellency .P " said 
 Herr von Biilow. 
 
 Meeting " ^ ^"^ ^'^^^ S^^^ *° ^^^ 7°^," replied Emin Pasha, 
 
 ■with Emin taking my hand and stroking it. " I do not know how 
 
 I am to thank you for all you have done for me." 
 
 I was so much agitated at meeting my countrymen and at 
 
 encountering Emin Pasha, which was after all a surprise for 
 
^n, 
 
 ^¥ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■v-^ 
 
 ff 
 
 ,;.. fr 
 
 s" 
 
 ' .'/ 
 
 • \ 
 
 
 / '■■; 
 
 'V\ 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 -" 
 
MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA. 537 
 
 me, that I was scarcely able to speak ; therefore I contented 
 myself simply with pressing Emin Pasha's hand. 
 
 " What an expedition you have behind you," continued the 
 Pasha. " None of us believed it possible that you could make 
 your way through. But now, come into my tent." 
 
 " Where is Herr von Tiedemann P " asked Herr von 
 Billow, who was an old comrade of Tiedemann's in the cadet 
 corps. 
 
 "Herr von Tiedemann is following with the caravan," I 
 replied. 
 
 " Then I will ride on a little way to meet him," said Herr 
 von Billow ; and he took his leave. 
 
 Meanwhile, Emin Pasha, still holding me by the hand, led 
 me to his tent. Emin Pasha's camp was pitched under gigantic 
 trees, upon the north side of Mpuapua. Above the 
 
 . ^ . . ^ ^ Eucamp- 
 
 tent little flags fluttered gaily m the breeze, and they ment of 
 bore, to my astonishment, the same initials as our 
 own flags, P. E. P. E. (Peters's Emin Pasha Expedition). Emin 
 Pasha smilingly explained. " You see we, too, bear the device 
 of your expedition." He had taken over the tents which I had 
 left behind at Zanzibar. In front of Emin's tent waved the 
 large black, white, and red flag, flanked on either side by 
 a gun. His Soudanese soldiers were drawn up, and saluted us 
 by presenting arms. 
 
 "Now, what can I give you in the way of refreshment .P 
 
 Will you take claret, or port, or a glass of beer, or Dr. 
 
 Stuhlmann," he called out to a delicate-looking gentleman now 
 approaching us, " here we have Dr. Peters." 
 
 I greeted Dr. Stuhlmann, whom I had known in Zanzibar, 
 and who was just getting about again after a severe attack of 
 
 ^^^'^^- Meeting 
 
 "Now, Doctor, you will let us have a bottle of with Dr. 
 
 „ . -,^^11 stuhlmann. 
 
 sekt, will you not ? " said Emm to Dr. Stuhlmann. 
 
 Emin Pasha had arranged his tent very tastefully, having 
 pushed his bed into the background, and placed a table and 
 chairs in the front. The table was covered with writing 
 materials; books, too, were at hand. Above the table hung 
 
538 KEW LIGHT OX DANK AFRICA. 
 
 carefully-prepared birds' skins. The whole almost conveyed 
 the impression of some German professor's study. 
 
 " And now, Dr. Peters," Emin Pasha went on, " something 
 that will greatly interest you. Prince Bismarck is no longer 
 Imperial Chancellor." 
 
 " ^Yhat ! Prince Bismarck no longer Imperial Chancellor ! 
 „, ,. Is he dead P " 
 
 startling 
 
 news from " Xo, he is uot dead. He has resigned." 
 "^"P^- u ^^(j ^Yio is his successor ? " 
 
 " General von Caprivi," he replied. " I may inform you," 
 he continued, " that His Majesty the Emperor appears to take 
 the greatest interest in our colonial affairs. In consequence of 
 this interest, he has commissioned me to lead an expedition 
 in the Lake Country, in order to restore German influence 
 there. But I should wish thoroughly to talk over with you the 
 manner of executing this commission, as you are, at this 
 moment, among all of us the person best acquainted with the 
 state of things in the Lake Country. But we will speak more 
 about that to-morrow ; and now, ask me what you wish to know 
 further." 
 
 '' What has become of Count Herbert Bismarck ? " 
 
 " He retired at the same time as his father, and Freiherr von 
 Marschall has succeeded him as Secretary of State for Foreign 
 Improved Affairs. Altogether, you will find the position of affairs 
 lor AMcln '^^ Europe, as well as the feeling about your expedition, 
 coionisa- much altered. We all work with renewed zeal, full of 
 confidence for the future of our undertaking," said 
 Emin Pasha. 
 
 I now related to Emin Pasha my arrangements with Uganda. 
 Emin "^^ interrupted me several times by throwing in the 
 Pasha's ap- word, " Charming, charming ! " turning with a pleasant 
 
 probation. -i t^ oi i n 
 
 smile to Dr. Stuhlmann. 
 Meanwhile Herr von Tiedemann came up, and was likewise 
 welcomed by Emin Pasha in the heartiest manner. I im- 
 parted to Herr von Tiedemann the intelligence I had just 
 received, that Prince. Bismarck was no longer Chancellor of 
 the Empire. 
 
IMPORTANT STATION OF MPUAPUA. 53& 
 
 " I know it," replied Herr von Tiedemann shortly. " I've 
 full information." 
 
 His friend Billow had already told him the startling news. 
 
 For about three-quarters of an hour we thus sat in lively 
 conversation in Emin's tent. I gave orders that my expedition 
 should establish its camp close to his ; and thus, through all the 
 hollow between the hill of Mpuapua and the mountain slope in 
 the north, waved the German flags and streamers. 
 
 " Gentlemen, it is time for dinner," said Herr von Bulow. 
 "May I beg you to step across to the station .P I have also 
 invited both the gentlemen from the French Mission, Pere 
 Schynse, a German, and a French Father, so we shall have a 
 large party to-day. I will now make you and these gentle- 
 men acquainted with each other." 
 
 He rose, and Emin Pasha remained behind for a short time 
 to make his toilette. JBy this time the two gentlemen from the 
 French Mission had come up, to whom we were like- xhe station 
 wise introduced. As soon as the Pasha was ready, we »* ^P^apua. 
 proceeded up a path into the station of Mpuapua. It is very 
 solidly built of rock stones, and has a tower more than two 
 yards in thickness. Herr von Billow was likewise having a 
 well dug within the station, and the work was being carried 
 on sturdily. 
 
 This settlement is, in truth, an achievement worthy of all 
 respect. It may be confidently asserted, that Mpuapua is 
 entirely impregnable, if properly defended, with regard a strong 
 to any attack where the assailants are not provided p""*'""- 
 with artillery. I also believe that the neighbourhood is healthy. 
 It is certainly very windy in Mpuapua, and accordingly colds 
 must be guarded against ; but, with proper precautions, people 
 will certainly enjoy better health there than in the damp and 
 heavy air on the coast. We looked at the various buildings, 
 and soon entered a solidly-built dining-room, where a banquet 
 awaited us that might be considered, according to African 
 ideas, worthy of Lucullus, inasmuch as it included European 
 vegetables of various soi*ts. In addition, there were good 
 strengthening dishes of meat, from captured herds of oxen, and 
 
:a() kew light ox dark Africa. 
 
 European delicacies iu the way of preserves. The gentlemen of 
 the station had also been kind enough to save up all 
 uouBban- they possesscd in the way of drinks for the last few 
 '^'^^*' weeks, against our arrival, so that in this department 
 we had such a choice as could hardly have been exceeded, on 
 similar occasions, in Europe itself. 
 
 When we had satisfied the first cravings of hunger, Emin 
 Pasha stood up, rang his glass, and welcomed us in words 
 full of heartiness, alluding to the rumours that had been rife, 
 concerning our destruction, and repeating that he had not con- 
 sidered it possible to reach his province from the east. 
 
 I returned thanks to Emin Pasha, expatiating on his work 
 on the Upper Nile, and declaring that we had gladly endured 
 every toil and danger, in the hope that we might be of use to 
 our great "African" fellow-countryman. Herr von Tiedemann 
 proposed the health of the chief of the station, Herr von Billow, 
 and so the meal went on ; for the first time for a year, we were 
 feasting among our compatriots, and naturally in a very exalted 
 and excited frame of mind. For a long time we sat thus 
 Ajoviai en- together, and the sun was already sinking when I rose 
 campment. ^^ ^^-^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^-^^^ Emin Pasha through the camp, to 
 
 see if all my people had been well lodged. This proved to be 
 the case. They were all feasting, in the highest spirits at 
 having reached the strong fortress of the Badutschi. Now, they 
 considered, all trouble and care was over and past, and the 
 German Emin Pasha Expedition was virtually ended. 
 
 The evening found us all assembled again at the common 
 table ; the conversation of the dinner was resumed, and notably 
 I had more opportunity than in the morning to make the ac- 
 quaintance of Father Schynse, with whom I continued sitting 
 for a long time after the other gentlemen had betaken them- 
 selves to their rooms for the night. 
 
 Next morning, before six o'clock, I had already repaired to 
 consuwa- the camp of Emin Pasha, to hold a practical council 
 uon with ^^-^^^ jj^j^-^ jj^ company with Lieutenant Langheld we 
 Pasha. • breakfasted in the open air, and then I retired with Emin 
 Pasha into his tent, for a closer consultation. I began by laying 
 
DESIGNS AND PROCEEDINGS OF EMIN PASHA. 541 
 
 before him all my treaties from Uganda and Lake Victoria, of 
 which he afterwards caused copies to be taken. I called his 
 attention to the probability of an attempt by the English party 
 in Uganda, assisted by Jackson, to force Muanga to overturn 
 these arrangements, and to make others in the British interests. 
 To safeguard the German interests in Uganda, pending the 
 decision of His Majesty the Emperor, Emin Pasha determined 
 at once to send messengers thither, to announce to the king 
 that at the command of His Majesty the German Emperor he 
 would come to Lake Victoria, and to exhort Muanga to make 
 no new, arrangements of any kind differing from the treaties I 
 brought with me, until the decision of the Emperor should be 
 known. The messenger who carried this letter started for 
 Ukumbi on the very next day. 
 
 When this had been done, we talked together of the state 
 of things in the Equatorial Province. Emin Pasha drew my 
 attention to the fact that he was now in the service of _ . . 
 the German Empire, but that if through any circum- the German 
 
 IT ■• -I • ^ • iTx -i 1. service. 
 
 stances he should get back into his old territory, ne 
 was prepared to undertake for that territory the same 
 responsibilities which Muanga had taken upon himself for 
 Uganda, and to work in the sense of these arrangements on the 
 Upper Nile. Before he decided anything in this direction, he 
 said, he must naturally be made aware of the position taken 
 up by the Imperial Government, and he hoped, if possible, to 
 see me again in Africa. 
 
 On this subject also a document was set up and completed. 
 
 As a third point, we discussed the object that lay before 
 Emin Pasha's expedition. Emin asked me to give him 
 accurate particulars concerning the countries in the west, and 
 asked my advice respecting what he might have, in the first 
 instance, to do to fulfil the commission entrusted to The occu- 
 him by His Majesty. I could only counsel him, to ^aborVL 
 the best of my knowledge and convictions, that before ^i=«^- 
 doing anything else he should at once occupy Tabora, or 
 some other suitable place in its vicinity. 
 
 " Then that is also your view," said Emin Pasha. " That 
 
.542 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 coincides entirely with my own opinion, and with what Father 
 !-ichynse has told me." 
 
 I replied : " I am even in a position to make you an offer, 
 in the name of INIonseigneur Hirth, that in case you are 
 prepared to occupy Tabora, the Catholic Mission will willingly 
 place their station, Kipullpulla, there at your disposal, for 
 your objects. On the question of the practical advantages of 
 occupying Tabora, in the first instance, there is no necessity 
 for much debate. Tabora is the central point of all the Arab 
 influence for the entire Lake territory. Whoever is master of 
 Tabora has in his hands the key to the three lakes, 
 
 Importance . n rrt ^ • i. j2 
 
 of the poei- and therefore the occupation of i abora is the first 
 thing that has to be done on the part of the Germans. 
 If you should decide first to establish a station by one of 
 the lakes, you would, after all, only bring about local results. 
 With Tabora you produce an effect upon all the three lakes 
 together." 
 
 " I am very glad," said Emin Pasha, " that we are so 
 entirely of the same opinion upon this point, and I am deter- 
 mined also to act in this sense. As it appears you have, after 
 all, had a very severe fight in Ugogo, I shall request Herr von 
 Billow to attach himself, with a part of his force, to my 
 expedition into the interior. You would oblige me if you 
 would now give me some particulars on the condition of Ugogo 
 specially." 
 
 " I shall take the liberty of working out for you a very 
 accurate record of routes, in which the peculiar question of 
 water supply in that country shall be specially treated." 
 
 " And what places on Lake Victoria," continued Emin, 
 " would you recommend to me for the establishment of a 
 station P " 
 
 " I would recommend your Excellency with this view to 
 inspect Bukoba, in the south of the Kagera. The southern 
 Advantages margin of the lake is flat and unhealthy ; the western 
 of Bukoba. ][3Qi.(jgj. ^g fertile, and as I think more healthy, as it 
 lies higher. Bukoba appears to me to offer all the conditions 
 necessary for the establishment of a station." 
 
EMIN'S ACCOUNT OF TRANSACTIONS WITH STANLEY. 543 
 
 Emin Pasha noted down all these details verj^ carefully ; 
 and it was past ten o'clock by the time we went up together 
 into the station, where we at once proceeded, with the help of 
 the other gentlemen, to reduce the important discussion of the 
 morning to writing. Thereupon I wrote letters to Monseigneur 
 Hirth and Mons. Lourdel in Uganda ; and thus we had a very 
 satisfactory day's work behind us when, towards one o'clock, 
 we sat down to luncheon. During this meal there came an 
 English missionary, from the neighbouring English ^^ English 
 Mission station of Kisokwe, an amiable, unassuming ■"""""^'^y- 
 gentleman, who enquired with great interest concerning our 
 adventures in the north. He remained sitting beside me the 
 whole afternoon, after the other gentlemen had retired for a 
 short midday sleep. This was the second day. 
 
 After four o'clock I betook myself to Emin Pasha, who now 
 gave me a number of particulars concerning his expedition and 
 Stanley's proceedings on the Upper Nile. To my great . 
 astonishment, I here received the full confirmation of carried off 
 what I had already heard, here and there, in the shape ^ *" ^^" 
 of rumours, by Lake Victoria, namely, that Stanley had carried 
 off Emin Pasha actually by force from the Equatorial Province. 
 
 Emin Pasha told me : " When Stanley came, for the first 
 time, to Lake Albert, he would have been lost if Casati and I 
 had not gone to him. Stanley did not come to us, we went to 
 him. He did not reach the Equatorial Province any criticism of 
 more than you did. When he first arrived at Kiwalli, 11111%^ 
 and found no tidings of us, he did not venture to make iigs- 
 an advance along Lake Albert to Wadelai, but went back for 
 four months, to bring up a boat. Then the expedition came 
 back, and we sought them out, brought them provisions and 
 clothing, and in this way the expedition was saved from 
 destruction." 
 
 Exactly in the same manner did Signor Casati express 
 himself to me, a few months later. 
 
 " Then Stanley began to press me to give up my post. He 
 told me the Khedive had sent him hither, for the definite 
 purpose of delivering to me the order commanding me to 
 
544 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 evacuate tlie Equatorial Province. Stanley gave me to under- 
 stand that he was empowered, in case of need, to carr)^ me away 
 from the Province by force. At that time my position 
 
 Emin's posi- .nn i x j.i ± •£■ t 
 
 tion on the ou the Upper Nile was still oi such a nature, that it i 
 Upper Nile. -^^^ ^^^ ammunition and stuff goods left, I could have 
 maintained myself permanently there. Not until afterwards, 
 and prompted, if not directly by the intrigues, at any rate by 
 the appearance of the English, my people put themselves in 
 opposition to me, and in fact solely on the ground that they 
 would not go away out of their Province. I am convinced that, 
 if I returned there now, with an equipment, they would all 
 rejoicingly bid me welcome. But if Stanley had a commission 
 from the Khedive to lead me away from there, he has certainly 
 not been loyal to the Khedive ; for a few days later he came 
 „^ r .V with an offer from the King of the Belgians, that I should 
 
 Offer of the ^ " . 
 
 King of the hoist the flag of the Congo State m the Equatorial 
 e gians. p^.Q^^ice, and that King Leopold offered me a contribu- 
 tion of £1,000 per month for the expenses of the government. 
 After a short time he advised me not to accept such an offer ; 
 for that the Congo State, from which he just then came, was in 
 a condition of great confusion and distraction. Besides, he said, 
 it was well known to Emin how King Leopold had formerly 
 treated him (Stanley). Therefore Stanley could not counsel 
 him to close with this offer, but he would make him a third 
 proposal. A British East African Company was about to push 
 forward towards the Upper Nile, from Mombas. Stanley 
 accordingly proposed that Emin should enter the service of this 
 company. Emin was to march with all his troops round Lake 
 Victoria, under the command of Stanley, to Kawirondo. There 
 they would find out a suitable island on Lake Victoria on which 
 The British Emin Pasha could fortify himself. Then Stanley 
 African would hasteu back to Mombas, to bring up reinforce- 
 company. j^ents for him. Every officer of Emin Pasha and all 
 his men would, on entering the service of the British East 
 African Company, receive the same salary they had had from 
 the Egyptian government. Emin Pasha might himself nego- 
 tiate with the company in London, respecting his own salary.'' 
 
EMIN AND THE BRITISH EAST AFRICAN COMPANY. 545 
 
 After my return to Europe, I naturally read with lively 
 interest Stanley's account of these propositions, which are also 
 to be found in his book "In Darkest Africa," but in another 
 connection, and, aboA^e all, with other surroundings. Especially 
 does Stanley assert that he made this last proposal to Emin 
 Pasha, not in the name of the British East xVfrican Company, 
 but only as a proposal emanating from himself. 
 
 In contrast to this, Emin Pasha repeatedly asserted, in 
 Mpuapua, in the most positive manner, that Stanley, to provide 
 for the case that Emin might be inclined to accept this proposal, 
 had brought with him from London an agreement Discrepancy 
 signed by the founders of the British East African sunless 
 Company, officially drawn up and with seals attached, l^^j^^"^ 
 at the foot of which agreement Emin had only to sign accounts, 
 his name to conclude the affair. This narrative of Emin's is to 
 be implicitly credited, inasmuch as he had no reason at all for 
 stating what was incorrect, whereas it will be understood that 
 the British East African Company had reasons subsequently, 
 when Emin had entered the German service, to 'disconnect itself 
 from the fact that a proposal had been made to him. 
 
 "However," continued Emin, "even this last proposal, the 
 acceptance of which Stanley forced upon me, half by threats, he 
 did not carry out. When we had arrived in the south of Lake 
 Victoria, he suddenly found that he did not care to lead me 
 round the lake and to take me to Kawirondo, from whence, as 
 had been expressly agreed, I was to reconquer my Emincom- 
 territory of Unjoro and Uganda with the reinforce- ^„f/„^^ *° 
 ments Stanley was to bring up ; on the contrary, he Stanley, 
 suddenly declared that I must go with him to the coast, to com- 
 plete the affair. He said that without the express command of 
 the Queen of England he could not mix himself up with the 
 troubles in Uganda. In this manner I have been compelled to 
 march with him to the coast, whereas originally the question 
 was only that of a transfer of my capital from Lake Albert to 
 Lake Victoria." 
 
 " To interfere in Uganda " — this was Emin's opinion, which 
 he repeatedly expressed—" Stanley did not venture ; as indeed 
 
 35 
 
546 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 in general in the conduct of his expedition, for the details of 
 which I have the greatest admiration, he often made wide cir- 
 cuits, to keep out of the way of the tribes he considered as 
 warlike. This accounts for the wonderful bends and corners to 
 be found in the route of his expedition." 
 
 Emin frequently made the remark : " If at any time Stanley 
 suffered from a slight illness, as, for instance, from catarrh, 
 Emin's es ^® '^s.ed to be kept Avaiting for weeks in one spot. On 
 timate of the Other hand, no particular notice was taken of the 
 state of health, good or bad, of the other members of 
 the expedition. But Avhat distinguishes this man is the extra- 
 ordinary presence of mind and the merciless resolution with 
 which he carried out what he had made up his mind to do. If 
 any unexpected incident occurred, very little time elapsed before 
 Stanley had resolved upon his measures, which were then put in 
 execution, let the cost be what it might." 
 
 I must here declare that, for several reasons, I cannot con- 
 sider this eulogistic opinion concerning Stanley as the leader of 
 an expedition, which Emin Pasha expresses, especially with 
 Dr. Peters's I'egard to his last undertaking, as warranted. Respect- 
 opmion.- ^jjg ^YiQ presence of mind displayed by Stanley in certain 
 dangerous situations I can give no sort of opinion ; but his 
 arrangement of the expedition as a whole, and his decisions at 
 important turning-points of the enterprise, appear to me in a 
 high degree incomprehensible, I may even say confused. It is 
 incomprehensible to me why Stanley, to get to Emin, did not, 
 in 1887, take the more convenient route from the eastern coast. 
 What he says in favour of the western route does not in any 
 way apply. I was afterwards told that in this particular a wish 
 had been expressed by the Congo State, in whose service Stanley 
 still was in the year 1887. That would render his general plan 
 Eeiations intelligible. But then his connection with Tippoo Tib 
 ■witii becomes incomprehensible to me. Stanley seeks to 
 
 Tippoo Tib. ... 
 
 explain this connection on the ground that Tippoo Tib 
 was too dangerous, and therefore he could not leave him behind 
 as an enemy. But then Tippoo Tib was in Zanzibar in 1887, 
 and was brought to the Upper Congo by Stanley himself. Stanley 
 
DR. PETERS' S CRITICISM OF STANLEY'S EXPEDITION. 547 
 
 knew Tippoo Tib as a faithless man. A man of that description 
 is not generally left to guard one's house, nor is it usual to give 
 any post of confidence to him. 
 
 But most incomprehensible of all appears to me the going 
 back to bring up the iron boat after the first arrival at Lake 
 Albert, which cost him four months, when he might have been 
 with Emin Pasha in fifteen days. Precisely from the point of 
 view of an African expedition, I cannot at all understand why 
 Stanley did not at least put himself into communication by 
 letter with Emin Pasha before he went back, and when he did 
 go back, why he did not at once try to put himself in touch 
 with his rear-guard. There appears in these movements indecision 
 of Stanleys, supposing him to be unable to give a proceed-^'' ° 
 better reason for them than that cited in his book of ^"s^- 
 travels, a degree of indecision which I am at a loss to reconcile 
 with the general picture I have formed for myself of this man ; 
 partly, too, from personal acquaintance. Through these move- 
 ments the period of the expedition was lengthened out to three 
 years, which certainly increased the cost of the undertaking in 
 a disproportionate degree. The same rule holds good with 
 African travels as with every other thing, that they are most 
 complete when the greatest possible results are achieved with 
 the smallest possible means. 
 
 It is in this case as in solving mathematical problems — the 
 simplest and readiest way is certainly also the best one. Looked 
 at from this point of view, Stanley's undertaking ap- .^^^^^f^g. 
 pears to me like working an equation with totally s^"^°[^*^^ 
 unnecessary circuitous ways and formulas. And what 
 was achieved in the end by this great expenditure in money 
 and men? The Equatorial Province is deserted; neither 
 Uganda nor Wadelai has been brought under the British 
 Protectorate ; and, on the other hand, Emin Pasha, who was 
 formerly a sincere friend of England, has been turned into an 
 equally sincere opponent— at least, of Stanley personally. That 
 is the final outcome of an undertaking which was announced as 
 calculated to serve the interests of civilisation and of Chris- 
 tianity in Central Africa, and, as certainly appears from 
 
548 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 8tanle3' s third proposal, at least aimed at getting the territories 
 on the EJpper Nile included in the sphere of British influence. 
 Neither the ostensible nor the real object has been attained. 
 Effect on Even the Mahdi himself could not have been more 
 civilisation, injurious to the civilising of the Upper Nile than 
 Stanle}' has been in realit}-. But as regards the establishment 
 of the English in these countries, Stanley, by refusing the assist- 
 ance of JNIuanga, and by avoiding co-operation with Jackson's 
 expedition, has contributed to convert the sentiment in Uganda 
 into positive enmity to England. This matter Stanley may 
 settle with those who commissioned him. These facts must, 
 however, be kept in view, if a just estimate is to be formed of 
 the value of his last expedition. 
 
 It was not till I reached Mpuapua that I learned how it was 
 Stanley's undertaking that frustrated our own plans with regard 
 Effect in to the Equatorial Province. Emin Pasha has cor- 
 Dr! Peters^ roborated me in the assertion that even with the small 
 expedition, powers we possessed we might have materially assisted 
 him ; inasmuch as we should, as I have already stated, have 
 established for him communications with Uganda, and conse- 
 quently with the German East African colony. If Stanley had 
 stuck fast in the swamps of the Aruwimi, Emin Pasha would at 
 this day, according to all human calculation, be still in Wadelai 
 in a perfectly secure position. The whole territory in the north 
 of Lake Yictoria would be a firm buhvark, under Christian 
 influence, which in time could have been extended step by step 
 down the Nile against the Mahdi influence, whereas now the 
 Arab influence extends to the northern boundary of Uganda ; 
 and Uganda itself is torn by the confusion of the strife of 
 parties, and its development is hindered to an immeasurable 
 extent. Therefore it must be stated that Stanley's enterprise 
 has been absolutely hurtful in its eff'ects for the general interests 
 of humanity, and for the special interests of England. 
 
 It can be understood that observations such as these, which 
 we naturally made during our meeting in Mpuapua, were 
 always attended by painful feelings in Emin Pasha and in 
 myself; but we united in the resolution, even if much had been 
 
EMIN PASHAS QUALITIES AXD CHARACTERISTICS. 549 
 
 lost, to hold fast to the idea of winning back in common what 
 had been lost, in one way or another. We entertained Hopes for 
 the hope of gaining for this object the sympathies not *^e*'it'ire- 
 only of the continental Powers, but, in the end, those of the 
 English Government likewise. In Mpuapua we were not yet 
 aware of the contents of the new arrangements between Germany 
 and England, which have materially delayed all these things in 
 the north of Lake Victoria. 
 
 Meanwhile, I had an opportunit}^, in the days we passed 
 together, of studying the purely human qualities of Emin 
 Pasha somewhat more closely, to note his truly German „. 
 thoroughness m the scientific labours he prosecuted of Emin 
 
 • Pasha 
 
 incessantly, and also the natural goodness of heart that 
 speaks out of his whole being. Often when we were talking of 
 the most important things, his bird shooter, who was always at 
 work, brought him a bird he had killed ; which Emin would 
 take in his hands with a kind of haste to examine accurately, 
 register it, and lay it aside for skinning. All his works, includ- 
 ing his journals of travel, showed the greatest closeness of 
 observation and accuracy of insertion. In this particular there 
 is certainly a decided difference between Emin Pasha and 
 Stanley. While, wherever the maps rested on Stanley's declara- 
 tions alone, I used, after a few trials, as, for instance, at Uweri- 
 weri, simply to put them aside, I should accept as authentic, 
 without trial, every particular to which Emin Pasha has put 
 his name. His provident, almost fatherly kindness of ^^.^ 
 heart towards us showed itself in a series of instances amiable 
 
 1 • q.ualities. 
 
 that were really touching. Though we were hastening 
 to the coast, and he, on the other hand, was going for an 
 indefinite time into the interior, he would not rest until we 
 had accepted from him a number of presents, for the greater 
 comfort of our situation. Clothes, linen, perfumes, drinks, all 
 these things were literally pressed upon us, and always in a 
 very delicate manner, and with friendly smiles. Though his 
 saddle-horse had fallen, he was almost angry when for a long 
 time I protested against receiving one of his handsome Muskat 
 donkeys as a present. At the very last moment, when I took 
 
550 ^.^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 leave of him, and was looking around for a stick for my donkey, 
 he forced his o-\vn riding-whip upon me, and to my remonstrance, 
 "But, your Excellency, then you will have none!" he replied, 
 " Oh, I shall manage, I shall find something." 
 
 For everything that, on the other hand, we were able to do 
 for him, his gratitude was simply heart-moving. I left with 
 „ ,., ^ him some scientific instruments, and also a few books. 
 
 Gratitude ' ' 
 
 for small amoug Others a few volumes of Arthur Schopenhauer, 
 which seemed especially to please him. 
 
 In the few days of our intercourse I was not in a position 
 to form an opinion concerning Emin Pasha as a politician or 
 an organiser ; in that respect his deeds must speak for them- 
 selves. But to the man Emin Pasha both Herr von Tiedemann 
 and myself became sincerely attached, and M'e shall always 
 think upon him with grateful recollection. On those days of 
 Mpuapua rests a halo of pleasant heartiness, which always 
 arouses a wish once more in life to experience such hours 
 and days. 
 
 On the afternoon of June 21st we had our photographs 
 taken by Herr Janke, in front of Emin's tent, in a group, and 
 Photo- *^^^ Emin Pasha and myself separately. Our break- 
 grapMc ing up was fixed for the following day. We were 
 
 portr&its. . - 
 
 going to the east and to the coast, and Emm Pasha 
 wanted to commence his march upon Ugogo. Once more we 
 passed a pleasant evening together. Next morning at six o'clock 
 we were all in our camps, making ready for the march. 
 
 At half-past six the two expeditions started simultaneously, 
 with waving flags and drums beating, in opposite directions. 
 On the previous day I had been able to supply Emin Pasha 
 with twenty-seven porters from among my Wasukuma, a 
 circumstance of which he was glad, as a number of his porters 
 had run away on the coast. We, on the other hand, departed 
 from Mpuapua well provided with all kinds of eatables, 
 especially with bread and vegetables. The gentlemen remained 
 together half an hour longer ; then came the time for saying 
 good-bye. Herr von Tiedemann had received from Herr von 
 Bulow a riding ox as a present, and I mounted Emin Pasha's 
 
NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN ROUTES TO BAGA3I0Y0. 551 
 
 white donkey. " Greetings to German}-, and greetings to Lake 
 Victoria, and may Ave soon meet again ! " — and then 
 there was a shaking of hands, and without many more from Emn 
 words I rode off after my column, that had gone on in ^^^^^' 
 advance, towards the east. At a turn of the way I looked 
 round again, and once more my eyes rested on the short, 
 peculiar figure of Emin Pasha. Hats are waved ; and behind 
 me, like a fair dream, Mpuapua and my experiences there 
 sink back together into memories of the past. 
 
 Over the further march to the coast I may pass lightly, for 
 the route from Mpuapua to Bagamoyo is well known. I 
 followed the southern road through Usagara. I confess that 
 I wanted to make the last part of my journey as easy to myself 
 as I could. There were no more perils to be encountered, and 
 I was anxious not to arrive in an exhausted state at the coast, 
 where the danger of attacks of fever is especially strong. The 
 northern way over Mamboyo is steeper, but a few The north- 
 days shorter ; the southern way is the easier and southern 
 pleasanter one. Every marching day was now, to a "^""^es. 
 certain extent, a holiday for us. Eating and drinking we had 
 in plenty ; and already in Tubugne, our first camping-place, I 
 received letters from the coast, informing me that seven more 
 loads of European dainties, notably sausages, preserves, and 
 champagne, had been sent up the country for us by our friends 
 in Zanzibar, and that we might expect every day to receive 
 them. Though they, in fact, only reached us seven days before 
 our arrival at the coast, the very expectation of them was an 
 enjoyment. So material does man become, when for many 
 months he has been restricted to the barest necessaries of life. 
 
 From our second camping-place, Mlale, I sent forward to 
 Zanzibar my last report for Europe, and a telegram, in which 
 I especially related the fight at Ugogo, and my meeting with 
 Emih Pasha. 
 
 At midday on June 25th, from the lofty plateau in the 
 north of the Mkondogna river, my eyes rested for the Arrival at 
 first time again with delight on glorious Usagara, and ^»*s*'*- 
 my heart was so stirred that tears came into my eyes, when I 
 
,3.J2 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 thought that we had heen privileged, six years ago, to gain this 
 land for Germany. My thoughts wandered back to the hours 
 I had passed in the Mkondogna valley with my friend Jtihlke, 
 and of the world of adventures and emotions that lay for me 
 between the December days of 1884 and the July of 1890. 
 
 In slow and easy marches we now moved on, down the 
 charming Mkondogna valley, which again reminded me vividly 
 of the Rhine or the Neckar, as it had done six years ago. 
 
 On the 26th I marched past Mninin-Sagara. At all corners 
 the German flag was now waving, the people came out of the 
 gates, and persisted that they remembered me from my last 
 stay here, which, however, I did not believe. We encamped in 
 the same spots where my first expedition had pitched its tents. 
 TheArabsof On Juue 27th, when I entered Mkondogna, the Arabs 
 Mkondogna. j-gsident there prepared a solemn reception for us. 
 They came in a body to meet us, conducted us to the Barasa, 
 brought us fruit and milk, and when we had taken leave of the 
 first Arab, we had to go to a second, a certain Buana Sani, to 
 partake of a breakfast which the Catholic missionaries in 
 Loanga had sent down for us. Father Home, to whom I had, 
 from Kedar, sent tidings of our approach, sent some pupils of 
 the Mission before us to Mkondogna, who presented us with 
 a large bouquet, and brought us a hearty letter of welcome, 
 with an invitation. We were on no account to pass by Loanga 
 without partaking of the hospitality of the Mission. 
 
 On the afternoon of June 27th we therefore rode with 
 a few men to Loanga, where we found a warm welcome, and 
 stay at ^ quantity of news from Europe. I ha(Ve forgotten to 
 Loanga. remark that in Tubugne we had received our European 
 mail communications from the German Emin Pasha committee, 
 and letters from our dear ones at home, the reading and 
 re-reading of which gave these last days of the expedition 
 a peculiar charm. 
 
 June 28th, a Saturday, we spent agreeably in the pleasant 
 station of Loanga, which is built neatly and tastefully by the 
 Loanga brook on the slope of a mountain, from whence the 
 prospect opens on the mountains of Ukami. We spent hours 
 
TRAVELLERS RELAX. i'f/nxs AXf) EXJOYMEXTS. 5.53 
 
 there in the shady verandali, tclliDii,- the narrative ot onr 
 
 UsAGARA Landscape. 
 
 expedition, or hearini^' ahont EuroiK', sittinii' over a olass of 
 chiret and water, hjoking out upon the ravishingly lieautiful 
 
5.34 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA. 
 
 landscape. Father Home is a Germac, a Hessian, if I do not 
 
 mistake, and a solid and amiable man. On the 29th we stayed 
 
 to dinner at the Mission. I had just sent the order for starting 
 
 the expedition to Farhani, towards Koberens;a, when 
 
 Herr von ' . "" 
 
 Tiedemann Herr von Tiedemann was seized with an attack of 
 again. ^^^.^^. . ^^ j advised him to remain in Loanga till it had 
 passed over. I would wait for him in Mrogro, another mission 
 of the Catholics. I was obliged to march away, because the 
 expedition was already on the road. So I had now to make 
 four days' marches alone through the Mkata plain as far as 
 Mrogro. When I was encamped in Wiansi, a day's march short 
 of Mrogro, I heard that a German expedition was lying in the 
 neighbourhood. I sent Hussein with the announcement that I 
 Another was here in Wiansi ; and, in the evening, when I was 
 expedition, already in bed, Herr de la Fremoise, the chief of the 
 expedition, which was bound to Mpuapua, came galloping up 
 on horseback. He brought with him a bottle of champagne 
 and another of absinthe, and we remained together in animated 
 conversation until late in the night. Next morning we break- 
 fasted together in the open air, and then I marched onward to 
 Mrogro, crossing the Lugerengere. From this side the moun- 
 tain plateau of Ukami appears rising massively, and on its 
 slope lies Mrogro, the most beautiful of all the stations I met 
 with. This morning I received the seven loads of European 
 dainties, close to Mrogro, and, somewhat weakened in body, I 
 Short resolved to make a break of seven days in my journey, 
 holiday at here in beautiful Mrogro, so that I might get to the 
 coast in full health and strength, and, likewise, that we 
 might enjoy the good things in the packages, especially the 
 sausage and preserves, in all tranquillity of spirit. The value 
 we put upon these things was a very different one from our 
 estimation of them in Europe. We quite forgot that when 
 once we got back to Zanzibar or to Europe, we should pro- 
 bably be able to buy sausage and beans, carrots and cabbage, 
 every day. 
 
 In Mrogro, also, I found the heartiest M^elcome from Father 
 Karst and Brother Basilid, two Lorrainers, who speak German 
 
MROGRO STATION ;— ENCAMPMENT IN PIGIRO. 555 
 
 quite fluently ; and in the plantations of this station, which have 
 quite a European appearance, I passed a quiet and reflective 
 week. 
 
 On July 5th Herr von Tiedemann arrived, safe and sound. 
 We had a really capital kitchen, to which Brother Basilid him- 
 self attends ; the coast was close before our eyes, and we also 
 found some new reading in the station, among other things some 
 European periodicals. I felt especial interest in the 
 coffee plantations of this place, which Brother Basilid Basiiid's 
 has laid, utilising in the work a rushing mountain ^ ^"^ * "°°' 
 stream. They not only supplied the' station itself, but also all 
 the remaining Catholic mission houses, with coffee, and Basilid 
 thinks they will very soon have a surplus for trading. 
 
 I should recommend anyone who proposes to establish 
 plantations in Eastern Africa, to betake himself to Mrogro for 
 awhile, to learn there. Mrogro is in reality a pattern for the 
 German East African territory. 
 
 On July 10th I at length started again, to accomplish the 
 remainder of the journey in long marches. I took with me 
 Herr Neuhaus, an hospital attendant from the Protect- March to 
 ing Corps, who had been left behind, sick of a fever, by B^&^^^oy"- 
 Emin Pasha, and whom I caused to be carried along with us to 
 the coast. We journeyed towards Bagamoyo by the well-known 
 route. We were in excellent health, and the expectation that 
 in a few days we should have left behind us all the toils and 
 dangers of this expedition, out of which, for months together, 
 we had had no hope to emerge alive, made every heart beat 
 high. 
 
 On July 15th I encamped in Pigiro, about two miles from 
 the ferry across the Rufu. I heard that a German official was 
 stationed here, and at once sent my servant Selek and the 
 Somali Mohammed Ismael to him, to announce our arrival. 
 They came back and reported that the white man was suffering 
 from fever to-day, but sent his greetings and some fowls. 
 
 Next morning early, we went on towards Mtone. The way 
 led through fresh grass, which was still damp from last night's 
 rain. After we had marched for an hour I saw the Rufu I 
 
o.jfi XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 knew !so well glimmering on the right. On the opposite bank I 
 noticed a very large shed and a European tent. I had a gun 
 The ferry fired, and immediately some boatmen appeared, and 
 atKufu. passed the ferry boat across to us by a chain; and 
 directly afterwards a white man came out in front of the tent. 
 I got into the boat with a few of my people, and when we were 
 in the middle of the river, the white man cried out, from the 
 opposite side, — 
 
 " Are you Herr Dr. Peters ? " 
 
 I answered, " Yes, certainly ; and who may you be ? " 
 
 " I am Bohndorf." 
 
 " I am exceedingly glad that you should be the first man I 
 meet here." 
 
 Herr Bohndorf welcomed me heartily. I had made his 
 acquaintance a year and a half previously in Egypt, and after- 
 wards I had seen him again in Bagamoyo. He led me 
 Bohndorfs into his tent and opened a bottle of champagne, which 
 had been sent there, he told me, for our arrival. Herr 
 von Tiedemann, who came in afterwards, found us already 
 engaged in animated conversation upon our expedition and the 
 occurrences on the coast. Unfortunately my travelling com- 
 panion was once more attacked by fever, so that he preferred to 
 rest for a few hours at Herr Bohndorfs, and I had to traverse 
 alone the short distance that still remained between us and 
 Bagamoyo. Herr Bohndorf told me the gentlemen had intended 
 to meet us at Mtoni, and I should probably find them on the 
 way there. So with a heart beating high with expectation, I 
 marched along the rest of the way, first through brushwood and 
 then through the plantations of cocoa palms which already 
 belong to Bagamoyo. Suddenly the place stood revealed before 
 us. To the right, along the cocoa palm grove, we marched, with 
 The German <^^^^^ beating. When we came in sight of the German 
 station at Station I Ordered my soldiers to fire three volleys. 
 Then the gates opened, and all the gentlemen came out 
 to us ; in front was Herr von Paerbrand, acting as deputy for 
 the chief of the station, who was absent at the time on an 
 expedition. I could hardly speak from joyful emotion, when I 
 
NEWS OF POLITICAL TRANSACTIONS IN EUROPE. 557 
 
 greeted these gentlemen. M}- soldiers were quartered in out- 
 houses, and I was taken into the salon of the station. On the 
 way, Herr Paerbrand informed me of particulars of the arrange- 
 ment with England by which the gains achieved bv ^ 
 
 T • 1 p T ^ "^ Important 
 
 our expedition north oi the first degree of south latitude news from 
 had been transferred to England, in return for which ""^''' 
 Germany received Heligoland ; that the Protectorate of Zanzi- 
 bar had further been given to England, in exchange for which 
 the German East African coast had been definitely ceded to 
 Germany. 
 
 I will pass in silence over the emotions these tidings excited 
 in me. I remained two hours in the salon to regain my com- 
 posure, and begged the gentlemen to say nothing more on the 
 whole subject. Here, in, the room, I found a great Despatches 
 number of telegrams from Europe, congratulating me *^°™ ^°^^- 
 on my return, and among these there were letters from my 
 relations and friends. 
 
 Telegrams of this kind I received from the German Emin 
 Pasha committee, from the German Colonial Company, from 
 Karl von der Heydt, from Wissmann, from various divisions of 
 the Colonial Company, from the German East African Com- 
 pany, and also from Fritz Krupp and other dear friends and 
 acquaintances. 
 
 When I had in some degree recovered from the perturbation 
 of mind into which I had been thrown by the tidings received, 
 and by reading these proofs of sympathy, Herr von Paerbrand 
 came in again to carry me oif to a banquet to which were 
 invited all the German gentlemen in Bagamoyo, among a genial 
 them the Austrian Consul from Bombay, a very amiable ^""^''• 
 and sympathetic gentleman, who was on a visit in Bagamoyo ; 
 besides my friends from the Mission, Father Etienne and Brother 
 Oskar, and all the officers and officials of the Protecting Corps 
 and of the German East African Company. Among others 
 appeared Herr von Sievers, the chief of the Maritime Division 
 of the Imperial Commissariat, who had come over with Herr 
 Domarsky from Zanzibar, in the most civil manner, to put the 
 Munchen at my disposal for my passage to Zanzibar. 
 
558 yE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. 
 
 It was a most cordial gathering at that dinner, the wine 
 was not spared, and the general feeling was one of festivity. 
 
 In the afternoon came Herr von Tiedemann, who, to my 
 great satisfaction, was entirely cured, and was able to join us at 
 supper. As he was an old friend of Herr von Paerbrand, he 
 resolved to stay a lew days in Bagamoyo. We settled that M'e 
 would go together to Europe by the French mail line, and at 
 nine o'clock the next morning I took a hearty leave of all the 
 Crossing to gentlemen to cross to Zanzibar on the Munchen, of 
 Zanzibar, -vyhjch Herr von Sievers himself took command on that 
 day. I took the whole of my little caravan, which had now 
 shrunk to thirty-six men, across with me, and also the Austrian 
 Consul and Herr Domarsky. The Countess Blucher, the Presi- 
 dent of the Women's Union, was also on board, so that we had 
 an agreeable passage over to Zanzibar. — It was an ennobling 
 sight for me when the continent of Africa, on which I had been 
 employed exactly one year, one month, and one day in the 
 carrying out of the expedition, began to sink below the western 
 horizon. It seemed almost as if a great gulf were lying between 
 me and my former life in Europe. The year 1889-90 had been 
 so rich in emotions and impressions of every kind, that it 
 appeared to contain a space of many years, even of a lifetime. 
 I seemed to be quite a different man from the one who had 
 gone off in June 1889 from Bagamoyo to the south, to begin 
 the Emin Pasha Expedition. The continent of Africa disappeared 
 in a hazy twilight, and soon the island of Zanzibar arose before 
 us. Then I recognised all the old places which I had so often 
 visited in the year 1887. Presently the masts of the ships 
 became visible to us, then the houses and the flags of the 
 consulates. We passed close by the German men-of-war the 
 Carola and the Schwalbe, the gentlemen on board giving us a 
 friendly salute. The anchor was dropped, we stepped into the 
 boats, and soon we stood on dry land, on the well-known spot 
 next to Oswald's house. I immediately betook myself to the 
 German Imperial Commissariat, where the officer in charge 
 at that time, Captain Richelmann, welcomed me in the most 
 friendly manner, and invited me to join him at his dinner-table. 
 
HOME BY STEAMER TO EUROPE. 559 
 
 Chance ordained that, living with Captain Richelmann and Herr 
 von Sievers, I found myself in the same house that „, ,, 
 
 • -, -, J. 1 , . . The old 
 
 I had occupied heiore the expedition started. But m quarters in 
 this domicile, too, I could hardly recognise myself for *"''^ ^^' 
 the same man, so deeply and emphatically had the impressions 
 of the year worked upon my inner life. 
 
 In Zanzibar I passed some happy days in the German 
 colony. As I received intelligence from Berlin which rendered 
 my speedy appearance there desirable, and as Lieutenant- 
 Captain von der Gr5ben, whose acquaintance I had made on 
 board the Schwalhe, informed me that the new English 
 steamers, which ran as far as Naples, were very comfortably 
 fitted up, I asked Consul-General Michahelles to put himself 
 in communication with the British Consul-General to procure 
 for me a guarantee for an unintercepted voyage home on one 
 of the steamers of the English line. But here, also, public 
 sentiment seemed to have undergone a change ; the English- 
 men met us in the most obliging way, and so, on the Tuesday, 
 on board the British steamer Madura, in the company of 
 Lieutenant-Captain von der Groben, I commenced my ^^ ^^ . 
 voyage home to Europe. Herr von Tiedemann pre- and Ger- 
 ferred, after all, making use of the French mail. On 
 August 9th I was in Naples; on the 15th I was greeted in 
 Milan, by Herr Oskar Borchert, in the name of the Emin 
 Pasha committee; on the 18th, at Wildbad, I was again on 
 German territory ; and on August 25th, in Juterbock, at the 
 Anhalt station, I was heartily welcomed home, after an absence 
 of exactly a year and a half, to the very day. 
 
 On the evening before my departure from Zanzibar, as I 
 was standing, after taking my walk, at the gate of the German 
 club, I had the pleasure of once more seeing Admiral a few 
 
 ' ^ n 1 • j-T, words with 
 
 Fremantle. He was going past, towards the sea, witn Admiral 
 one of the British captains, when he caught sight of ^""'^''*^*- 
 me. He went a few steps further, then turned round, came 
 towards me, and said, — 
 
 " How do you do. Dr. Peters ? I must congratulate you on 
 the successful accomplishment of your expedition." 
 
ado 
 
 X!:w Linirr nx dauk afiuca. 
 
 " "Many thanks." 
 
 "You have a iircat work licliind yon. It rcqnirefl nincli 
 ent'i;uy and cdurauc " 
 
 " Many thanks ; yes." 
 
 " Yon have i'ound many diflicnlliL's '' "" 
 
 "Especially (.»n the coast." 
 
 " Yes, I know." 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 SUPPLEMENT I. 
 
 THE GERMAN EMIN PASHA COMMITTEE. 
 
 AcKERMANN, Privy Court Councillor, Member of the Reichstag, 
 and of the Saxon Assembly of Estates, Dresden. 
 
 Aeendt, Dr., Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin 
 (Secretary). 
 
 Aknim, Muskau, .Count, Member of the Reichstag, Muskau. 
 
 Balan, Von, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Com- 
 mittee, Schlawe. 
 
 Becker, Fritz, Dr., Worms. 
 
 Behr-Bandelikt, Count, Chamberlain of H.M. the Emperor, 
 Bandelin. 
 
 Belou, Von, Landed Proprietor, Major on retired list, Member 
 of the Executive Committee, Saleske. 
 
 Bennigsen, Von, Upper President, Member of the Reichstag, 
 Hanover. 
 
 BoKEMEYEE, Dr., General Secretary, Berlin. 
 
 BuECK, H., General Secretary, Berlin. 
 
 BussE, M., Dr., Mining Councillor, Dortmund. 
 
 Campe, Von H., Dr., Hanover. 
 
 Christophersen, Member of the Executive Committee, Schleswig. 
 
 Clausz, Manufacturer, Member of the Reichstag, and of the 
 Saxon Assembly of Estates, Chemnitz. 
 
 Cornelius, F., Member of the Council of the German Colonial 
 Company for South-west Africa, Berlin. 
 
 36 
 
562 APPENDIX. 
 
 Cranach, Von, Government President, Hanover. 
 Crede, Dr., Court Councillor, Dresden. 
 Credner, Professor, Leipzig. 
 
 CuNY, Von, Privy Councillor of Justice, Member of the Reich- 
 stag, Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin. 
 Douglas, Count von. Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Aschersleben. 
 Drigalski, Von, Lieutenant-General, retired, Berlin. 
 DziEMDOwsKY, Vou, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Schloss Meseritz. 
 Fabri, F., Dr. (theological), Godesberg. 
 Fabri, T., Dr., Hamburg. 
 Friedberg, Dr., Professor, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Halle. 
 Friederichsen, L., Hamburg. 
 Gerlich, Dr., Land Councillor, Member of the Executive 
 
 Committee, Schwetz. 
 Grais, Hub de. Count, Privy Government Councillor, Member 
 
 of the Executive Committee, Berlin. 
 Grimm, Dr., Ministerial President, retired, Karlsruhe. 
 Grosse, Rudole, Dr., Strassburg in Elsass. 
 Grosz, Advocate, Pforzheim. 
 Guilleaume, Cologne. 
 
 GiJNTHER, F., Commercial Councillor, Dresden. 
 Hacke, Count von, Rear-Admiral, retired, Berlin. 
 Haniel, Dr., Land Councillor, Member of the Executive 
 
 Committee, Mors. 
 Hansen, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Tondern. 
 Hermann, Prince of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, Langenburg. 
 Herwig, Vice-President, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Berlin. 
 Heszler, Government Architect, Erfurt. 
 Heydt, Carl von der. Banker, Elberfeld, Treasurer. 
 HoBRECHT, Actual Privy Councillor, Minister of State, retired 
 
 Member of the Reichstag, Berlin. 
 Hofmann, Von, Minister of State, Berlin, First Deputy President. 
 
APPENDIX. 563 
 
 Irmer, Dr., Keeper of the Royal Archives, Hanover. 
 Jaekel, Land Director, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 Dantsic. 
 
 Kaapcke, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive Com- 
 mittee, East Prussia. 
 
 Kardorff, Von, Member of the Reichstag, Wabnitz. 
 
 Kennemann, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive 
 Committee, Klenka (Province of Posen). 
 
 Kreszmann, Major, retired, Karlsruhe. 
 
 Krupp, F. a.. Privy Councillor of Commerce, Essen. 
 
 Langen, Eugene, Privy Councillor of Commerce, Cologne. 
 
 Langekmann-Erlenkamp, Baron von. Member of the Executive 
 Committee, Lublin (Province of Posen). 
 
 LiNDEMAJSTN, M., Dr., Bremen. 
 
 LrvoNiiTs, Vice-Admiral, retired, Berlin. 
 
 Lucas, Assessor, retired. Director of the German East African 
 Company, Berlin. 
 
 Lucius, Privy Councillor of Commerce, Member of the Execu- 
 tive Committee, Erfurt. 
 
 LtJCKHOFE, Manufacturer, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 Silesia. 
 
 Maerckee, Lieutenant, Strassburg in Elsass. 
 
 Mehnert, Dr., President of the Agricultural Credit Union in 
 the Kingdom of Saxony, Member of the Reichstag, and 
 the Assembly of Estates, Dresden. 
 
 Meister, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive Com- 
 mittee, Sangeran by Thorn. 
 
 Minnigerode, Freiherr von, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 Rositten. 
 
 Mirbach-Sorquitten, Count von. Member of the Reichstag, 
 Sorquitten. 
 
 MtJHL, District Judge, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 Segeberg. 
 
 Nedden, Zur, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive 
 Committee, Marienberg. 
 
 Neubarth, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive 
 Committee, Wtinschendorf. 
 
564 APPENDIX. 
 
 Netjbauer, F. a., Priv,y Councillor of Commerce, Magdeburg. 
 NiETiiAMMEK, Couiicillor of Commerce, Member of the Reichstag, 
 
 and of the Saxon Assembl)- of Estates, Krebsstein. 
 Oppenheim, Hugo, Banker, Berlin. 
 O'Satald, W., & Co., Hamburg. 
 Palesieux, Von, Major and Adjutant of H.R.H. the Grand 
 
 Duke of Saxe-Weimar. 
 Peters, Carl, Dr., Berlin, President. 
 Pilgrim, Von, Government President, Member of the Executive 
 
 Committee, Minden. 
 PoPELius, Member of the Executive Committee, Sulzbach. 
 RiTTER, Dr., General Director, Waldenburg in Silesia. 
 RoBDER, E. von. Chief Master of Ceremonies, Berlin. 
 RoHLFS, Gerhard, Consul-General, Weimar. 
 RuMPFi, Manufacturer, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Schloss Aprath (Rhine Province). 
 Sachse, Director in Imperial Post Office, Berlin. 
 ScHAEFFER, G., Member of the Executive Committee, Gorlitz. 
 Schmidt, Member of the Executive Committee, Sangerhausen. 
 ScHREiBER, Member of the Executive Committee, Wolkrams- 
 
 hausen. 
 ScHROEDER, Dr., Landed Proprietor, Poggelow, Second Deputy 
 
 President. 
 ScHUXTZ-LupiTZ, Member of the Executive Committee, Member 
 
 of the Reichstag in Lupitz (Province of Saxony). 
 ScHV^ARTZKOPF, Von, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Neustadt in Hanover. 
 ScHVFEiNFURTH, Dr., Professor, Berlin. 
 Simon, Privy Councillor of Government, retired, Berlin. 
 Solms-Braunfbls, Hermann, Prince of. 
 Steinrijck, Von, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive 
 
 Committee, Member of the Eeichstag, Seclow. 
 Stengel, Member of the Executive Committee, Stassfurt. 
 Steun, Von, Major, retired, Berlin. 
 Teichmann-Logischen, Von, Lieutenant-General, Berlin. 
 Tiedemann, E. von. Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Bomst. 
 
APPENnLY. 
 
 565 
 
 TiEDEMANX, Von, Govenimeut Pri'sidt'iit, Crombera;. 
 
 TRAiiM, Member of the Executive Committee, Hauover. 
 
 Truppel, G., Riidolstadt. 
 
 TucHER, Freiherr von, Government Coimcillor, Nilrnbero-. 
 
 Uechtritz-Steinkirch, Von, Councillor of the Kummerf,^ericht, 
 
 Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin. 
 Ulbich, J., Member of the Reichstao-, Pfreu^■stadt. 
 Wagner, J., Teacher at High Scliool, Berlin. 
 Wessel, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Committee, 
 
 Stuhm. 
 Wettich, Town Representative, ^Member of the Executive 
 
 Committee, Havelberg. 
 WiBEL, Dr., Wiesbaden. 
 Wied, W., Prince of, Neuwied. 
 WissMANN, First Lieutenant, retired, Berlin. 
 WiTTENBRiNCK, Higli School Teacher, Bur^steinfurt. 
 
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566 APPENDIX. 
 
 SUPPLEMENT II. 
 
 RELATIONS WITH ADMIRAL FREUANTLE AND THE BRITISH 
 
 BLOCKADE. 
 
 " To THE Executive Committee of the German 
 Emin Pasha Committee. 
 
 " I have the honour very respectfully to report the following 
 concerning my conference with Rear- Admiral Fremantle, which 
 has just taken place. 
 
 " It lasted about three-quarters of an hour, and was in a high 
 degree interesting. 
 
 " Admiral Fremantle was engaged on the quarter-deck. He 
 immediately received me, and conducted me to his saloon. 
 
 " I introduced the subject of the prohibition that forbade me 
 to visit any of the English places, and my Neoera to run in at 
 any of them. To this Admiral Fremantle replied, in the first 
 place, with some lengthy observations. My past doings in 
 Eastern Africa, he said, must naturally awaken the suspicions 
 of the English. I had come here, into their territory, and had 
 everywhere hoisted the German flag. He had been suspicious 
 of me before I came here. My behaviour here had greatly 
 strengthened his suspicions. No one knew what my real inten- 
 tions were. I had visited neither him nor the English Consul- 
 General ; here and there I had looked about me on the coast. 
 Rightly or wrongly, he felt fully convinced that I had again 
 political objects in the background. And these aims he would 
 oppose. He was an Englishman, and no one could blame him 
 for doing so. If, indeed, I were protected by my own Govern- 
 ment, he could put no obstacle in my way. I ought to report 
 to Berlin. So long as my Government did nothing for me, 
 nobody could blame him if he tried to frustrate my endeavours. 
 
APPENDIX. 567 
 
 He would readily admit that the blockade was a welcome 
 implement to him, for this end. And he intended to use it. 
 If this was ' unpleasant ' for me, I must at least allow that he 
 met me openly. I replied, his good will was not the point in 
 question, 'but,' I said, 'I onl}' want my right. You must your- 
 self know how far you can justify such measures against me. 
 It is plain that ultimately they will have to be adjudicated 
 upon in another place.' I would have visited him before, but 
 it had several times happened that he was absent when I was 
 in Zanzibar. So far as my objects were concerned, they were 
 expressed in the aim of my expedition. I wished to carry help 
 to Emin Pasha. As regarded the attitude of the German 
 Government, I was not entitled to express an opinion why it took 
 up this or that position ; at any rate, both our Emperor and the 
 Imperial Chancellor had assured us of their sympathy, and I 
 also believed that we possessed the sympathy of our nation. 
 
 " Admiral Fremantle said, that so far as regarded his right, 
 there existed a state of war. That I was, or at least appeared 
 to be, dangerous to the peace of Africa. That when, a short 
 time ago. Sir John Kirk had been here, entirely on private 
 affairs, the Germans had shown themselves to be disquieted, and 
 that Sir John had been obliged, after three days, to take his 
 departure. Now, he had personally a very high esteem for Sir 
 John Kirk. Therefore I should receive more justice than Sir 
 John Kirk. I was, for the English, exactly what Sir John 
 Kirk was for the Germans. If Deinhard declared that he did 
 not want to have Sir John Kirk in Saadani, he could do nothing 
 against it ; and the English did not want to have me in any of 
 their places. Besides, there were such things as telegraphs. I 
 had better complain of him ; an order to him from London 
 would alter the situation for him. 
 
 " I replied that I did not think he was justified in the 
 measures he was taking, for a state of war did not actually 
 prevail ; and for the blockade there were definite normal bounds, 
 which I did not intend to overstep. I should leave it to the 
 public opinion of Europe to form a judgment on the attitude 
 he was maintaining. Beyond this, I was especially anxious to 
 
568 APPEXD/X. 
 
 know accuratel}', to what extent I had to calculate upon his 
 opposition. ' What are the places you blockade ? ' Admiral 
 Fremantle replied, ' The places from Lamu to Umba.' I said, 
 ' Then outside these I have not to anticipate your enmity ? ' 
 He answered, after a short hesitation, ' Outside these places I 
 shall not interfere with you.' I said^ ' Very well ; I now know 
 what I have to expect, and you may be sure that it is not my 
 intention to interfere with the sphere of British blockade.' 
 
 " I then brought forward the subject of my wish with respect 
 to the delivering up of the hunting weapons ; the German 
 authorities had, as I reported to the Committee yesterday, de- 
 clined to mediate for me in this matter. Admiral Fremantle 
 explained to me, in the first instance, that for his part he 
 had never had any other idea than that there was a ' mis- 
 understanding ' in this matter. He had also said to his 
 superiors, that I might have sent the weapons by Wissmann's 
 steamer, so that I had given no cause of complaint. He would 
 send my hunting weapons to me, on board the Necera, and only 
 requested me to give him a receipt for them. 
 
 " During our interview, an impression had evidently come 
 upon the old gentleman, that this attitude towards a single man 
 was not, after all, a very brilliant one, and it was manifestly 
 agreeable to him to do me this favour. 
 
 " In conclusion, I asked him whether I might, if necessary, 
 send the Necera to Lamu. He replied, ' Well, if no arms are on 
 board, and ' (with a smile) ' if you yourself don't go.' 
 
 " I have to apologise if this short extract from our conver- 
 sation should be found incorrect, here and there, with respect to 
 st3de. I have been anxious to give the decisive declarations as 
 literally as possible. 
 
 " I believe this report may be of use, in case of necessity, 
 in characterising the condition of things here, and beg to 
 refer this, with all respect, to the judgment of the honourable 
 Committee. 
 
 " With much respect, 
 
 (Signed) " Cael Peters." 
 
APPENDIX. 569 
 
 " To Captain Cakdale, 
 " Commander of H.B.M.S. Agamemnon, Zanzibar. 
 
 " Sir, — When I had the honour to call upon you this 
 morning, you kindly informed me that you had orders not to 
 allow my person to land at any place within the sphere of 
 British blockade ; neither should my steamer he entitled to 
 call at any port or place blockaded by the British fleet. 
 
 "As it is absolutely necessary that I should have a personal 
 interview with the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral Fre- 
 mantle, and as I have hardly time to wait till next Thursday, 
 I kindly beg of you either to give me passage on hoard one 
 of H.B.M. ships that is going to Mombassa within the next 
 days, or to give a pass for my steamer Necera, on board of 
 which I then will go to Mombassa. As this demand is in 
 entire conformity with the conditions of the blockade, I trust 
 that you will kindly a^ree to it. 
 
 " Your immediate answer will greatly oblige 
 " Yours very respectfully, 
 
 (Signed) "Carl Peters. 
 
 " On hoard S.S. ' Necera.' " 
 
 " To Dr. Carl Peters, 
 " British S.S. Nemra. 
 
 " H.M.S. ' Agamemnon,' Zanzibak, 3Ia>/ 27th, 1889. 
 
 " Sir, — I regret to inform you that it is not in my power 
 either to give you a pass to Mombassa, or to grant you a 
 passage in H.M. ship proceeding to that port. 
 
 "The Rear-Admiral Commander-in-Chief will arrive at 
 Zanzibar at daylight on Thursday next, when you will have 
 no difficulty in seeing him. 
 
 " I am. Sir, your obedient Servant, 
 
 " C. S. Cardale, 
 
 " Captain and Senior Officer. ' 
 
570 APPENDIX. 
 
 "Bagam-OYO, June 9tk, 1889. 
 
 " Your Excellency, — I have the honour kindly to inform 
 Your Excellency that I shall most likely have to send the 
 Necera to Lamu. 
 
 " According to the promise kindly given by Your Excellency 
 to me, that you will raise no objections to my doing so, in case 
 there are neither arms, nor war ammunitions, nor my own person 
 on board, I kindly beg from Your Excellency to instruct the 
 commander of H.M.S. at Lamu of my intention. 
 
 " I probably shall send to Lamu either Herr Borchert or Herr 
 Friedenthal, or both, and this will be about from the 25th to 
 the 30th of June. 
 
 " With the expression of my sincere respect, 
 "I remain 
 " Your Excellency's most obedient Servant, 
 
 (Signed) " Carl Peters." 
 
 "'BoADiCEA,' AT Zanzibak, June Wth, 1889. 
 
 " Sir, — I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of 
 your letter of the 9th inst., informing me of your intention to 
 send the Necera to Lamu, but that in accordance with what I 
 mentioned in our recent interview you would not go yourself, 
 and no arms or ammunition would be on board the ship. 
 
 " Under the above circumstances I shall not object to the 
 Newra going to Lamu, and I will give instructions to our 
 blockading ship accordingly ; but her proceedings there will be 
 watched, and I shall direct that she is ordered to quit the port 
 if anything whatever is being done or suspected which would 
 at all be liable to create disturbance or injure the British 
 Imperial East African Company. 
 
 " It would tend to remove suspicion if you were to make a 
 candid statement of the object for which the Necera is required 
 to go to Lamu. 
 
 " I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient Servant, 
 
 ( Signed ) ' ' Fremantle, 
 
 " Rear- Admiral Comniander-in-Ghief. 
 
APPENDIX. 571 
 
 "To OSKAE BOECHERT, EsQ., 
 
 "Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, Lamu. 
 
 " Lamu, June 2lst, 1889. 
 "Sir, — I have the honour to inform you that I have re 
 ceived orders from Arbuthnot, commander of H.M.S. Mariner, 
 to prevent the S.S. Necera from landing the cargo consigned to 
 the German Emin Pasha Expedition in Lamu. 
 
 "I further have to state that I have examined every 
 package, and hereby certify that I have found neither arms 
 nor ammunition nor powder amongst them. 
 
 " I have the honour to be. Sir, 
 
 (Signed) "D.R.Roberts, 
 
 " Seaman, H.M.S. ' Mariner.' " 
 
 " H.M.S. 'Mariner,' at Lamu, 
 
 " 22nd June, 1889. 
 
 " Sir, — Acting under orders from the Naval Commander- 
 in-Chief in these waters, and in consideration of the existing 
 blockade of this part of the coast of Africa, I have to inform 
 you that [the stores at present on board your ship for Dr. Carl 
 Peters cannot be landed at this place, or at any other part 
 within or adjacent to that part of the coast which is at present 
 under blockade. Those stores, now in a lighter alongside your 
 ship, must be taken on board again, and you are to quit the 
 port as soon as this is accomplished. I shall send an officer 
 and an armed party on board to support you in carrying out this 
 order. The officer will accompany you to Zanzibar, in order to 
 see that the stores are not landed in any other port on this 
 part of the coast. His passage to that place will be taken and 
 paid for. 
 
 (Signed) " Charles R. Arbuthnot, 
 
 " Commander." 
 
572 APPENDIX. 
 
 " WiTU, 2Wi June, 1889. 
 
 " Your Excellency, — It is with the greatest surprise that I 
 learn Your Excellency has given orders to seize the Necera at 
 Lamu, and prohibit her to discharge her cargo at this place. 
 Your Excellenc)', I am sure, will understand my surprise, as 
 you will remember our arrangement made at Zanzibar on May 
 31st. Your Excellency declared my calling at any place under 
 British blockade objectionable, but promised not to interfere 
 with me outside the line of this blockade. When I asked Your 
 Excellency what you meant by ports and places under British 
 blockade, you answered clearly and distinctly that this meant 
 the coast between Lamu and the mouth of the Umba River. 
 The official declaration limits the blockade between 2° 10' and 
 10° 27' southern latitude. Therefore, complying with your 
 demand, I took the trouble to land the goods of the German 
 Emin Pasha Expedition at Kwaihu Bay, about 2° 5' southern 
 latitude, therefore ' outside the line of blockade.' You further 
 promised me not to interfere with the Necera, should she call at 
 Lamu, if neither men nor arms and war ammunition were on 
 board. Now the Necera, trusting to your promise, called at 
 Lamu without me and war ammunitions of any kind. In spite 
 of the promise given by Your Excellency to me at Zanzibar on 
 May 31st, you have given orders to seize her by force, in con- 
 tradiction to international law, and in conflict with the terms 
 laid down in the declaration of blockade. 
 
 " I shall leave it to the public opinion to judge about this 
 conduct, and I have taken steps to have this letter published in 
 Europe. 
 
 " But I may take the liberty to inform Your Excellency that 
 I had transferred the Necera to Herr Oskar Borchert already on 
 t he 1 5th day of this month at Kwaihu Bay, and that I consigned 
 the merchandise on her to Herr Toeppen on the 19th day of this 
 month at Shimbye. For these goods, representing merchandise 
 to be used on the Pangani route, were not of essential value to 
 me while marching north of the Tana river, and therefore I sent 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 573 
 
 them to Lamn instead of landing them at Kwaihii. I expect 
 that Herr Oskar Borchert as well as Herr Toeppen will claim 
 damages from Your Excellency h)' legal proceedings for the 
 losses they incurred through your orders, which you will have 
 to answer for. 
 
 " I have the honour to he, 
 " Your Excellency's most obedient Servant, 
 
 (Signed) " Carl Petees. 
 
 " To his Excellency the Piear-Admii-al and Commander-in- 
 Cliief, Feemantle, on boai-d H.IM.S. Iloadicea." 
 
-j74: appendix. 
 
 SUPPLEMENT III. 
 
 TES "JSTECEKA" LAWSUIT. 
 
 THE English steamer Neoera was chartered in April 1889, 
 through the instrumentality of the Indian merchant 
 Sewa Hadji, by Dr. Carl Peters for a period of six months, at 
 the stipulated price of 6,500 rupees per month, for the German 
 Emin Pasha Expedition. After the landing, which took place 
 in Kwaihu Bay on June 15th (outside the blockaded region on 
 the coast), the articles required by the expedition, especially 
 arms, munitions, wares, etc., were landed. There remained on 
 board about one hundred cases of various articles which were 
 not immediately required for the expedition. According to the 
 arrangements made by Dr. Peters, these goods were to be sold 
 in Lamu or Zanzibar, and in their stead articles of barter were 
 to be provided, which were to be sent after the expedition. To 
 this end. Dr. Peters consigned the goods left on board to the 
 representative of the German Witu Company, Herr Curt Toeppen, 
 in Lamu ; while the charter was transferred on June 15th to 
 Herr 0. Bor chert, member of the German Emin Pasha Expe- 
 dition. Herr Borchert arrived with the ship at Lamu on 
 June 18th. There eighty-seven cases were put on board a 
 dhow, after they had been opened and not objected to by the 
 English naval officer who carried out the blockade service in 
 Lamu. This officer, in a letter to Herr Borchert, dated June 
 21st,* especially acknowledged that he had found in the cases 
 neither arms, nor powder, nor ammunition of any kind. Never- 
 theless he informed Herr Borchert, in the same letter, that he 
 had received orders from Mr. Arbuthnot, the commander of the 
 English ship of war Mariner, to prevent the landing of the 
 goods in Lamu. A letter from Mr. Charles R. Arbuthnot, 
 
 * See Supplement II., p. 571. 
 
APPENDIX. 575 
 
 dated June 22nd,* confirmed this order, with the addition that 
 the goods already transhipped to the dhow were to be put back 
 on board the Necera, and that the latter was to quit the harbour 
 of Lamu immediately. The captain of the Necera was com- 
 pelled to obey this order, and to proceed to Zanzibar, accom- 
 panied by an English officer. 
 
 In Zanzibar the cargo of the ship was again inspected. A 
 case was now found which contained, among other parapher- 
 nalia, a few leather belts and bags, besides a number of knives, 
 or hunting knives, and a small quantity of sounding lead. 
 Hereupon proceedings were taken in the English Prize Court in 
 Zanzibar. There appeared as plaintiffs, demanding the release 
 of the ship : ( 1 ) The proprietors of the Necera (the English 
 firm Messrs. Shepherd & Co.) ; (2) Sewa Hadji and 0. 
 Borchert as charterers; (3) Herr Toeppen as consignee of the 
 goods. The judge had to decide whether the ship had been 
 rightfully seized for breaking the blockade, and the decision 
 turned upon the question whether the articles above described 
 (leather belts, bags, etc.) were to be looked upon as materials 
 of war. On this question English as well as German witnesses 
 and experts were heard. The Englishmen (especially Captain 
 Cardale of the man-of-war Agamemnon, and General Matthews, 
 commander of the troops of the Sultan of Zanzibar) answered 
 the question in the affirmative, while on the German side 
 (especially by Imperial Commissary Wissmann) the opinion 
 was maintained that we had here to do with articles the 
 importation of which was in no way forbidden by the decrees 
 and orders for the blockade. The judge took the latter view. 
 The decision was given, to that effect, on August 5th, 1889. 
 Though it was favourable as to the main issue, inasmuch as 
 an order was made for the release of the ship, the judge not 
 only refused the claim for damages set up by the plaintiffs, 
 but also condemned the owners of the ship in the costs of the 
 suit. At the conclusion of his plaint, Herr Borchert had not 
 only asked for the release of the ship and her cargo, but had 
 
 * See Supplement II., p. 571. 
 
576 APPENDIX. 
 
 sought to make the authors of the seizure of the vessel responsi- 
 ble for all damages he had suffered by that proceeding. 
 
 The question accordingly arose, whether, in view of this 
 last decree, an appeal should be lodged against the decision 
 of the Prize Court, that had been favourable on the chief point. 
 This question was urged upon the German Emin Pasha com- 
 mittee also by the Foreign Office of the German Empire. 
 
 The executive committee of the above-mentioned associa- 
 tion had applied to the Foreign Office with a complaint 
 concerning the hostile measures of the English authorities 
 (preventing the Somalis from landing in Lamu, confiscation 
 of the weapons in Zanzibar, prohibition to Dr. Carl Peters and 
 to the Newra to land within the English line of blockade, 
 seizure of the Neoera), and put forward claims for damages. 
 The Foreign Office, after receiving the report of the Consul- 
 General in Zanzibar, did not, indeed, acknowledge the complaint 
 in all its bearings, but allowed it to be well founded in respect 
 to certain points. With regard to the affair of the Necera, it 
 was proposed to the executive committee that the judgment 
 of the Prize Court should be appealed against to the Privy 
 Council in London, as the English Government could only be 
 moved to give an indemnity in case of the " unconditional 
 acquittal " of the ship. Thereupon enquiries were instituted 
 on the part of the committee in London, in the proper quarter, 
 with respect to the cost and the probable issue of an appeal. 
 The answer was that the proceedings in London would involve 
 an expense which would go beyond the means of the committee, 
 and that the issue appeared doubtful ; possibly, the appeal 
 might lead to a reversal of the favourable verdict obtained on 
 the chief point — the release of the ship. The German Emin 
 Pasha Committee accordingly resolved to refrain from lodging 
 the appeal. This resolve was communicated to the Foreign 
 Office, with the reasons that had led to it. At the same time 
 the claim for damages on account of the seizure of the Neoera, 
 which the Prize Court had pronounced unjustified, and also for 
 the other measures adopted on the side of the English against 
 the expedition, was maintained. Respecting one portion of 
 
APPENDIX. 577 
 
 these claims the Foreign Office had entered into negotiations 
 with the English Government. The provisional German- 
 English agreement of June 17th, 1890, among various yet 
 unsettled points in dispute, which were reserved for further 
 friendly consideration, after it had been declared that there 
 were in principle no serious differences of opinion upon them, 
 had included the "claim respecting the detention of the 
 steamer Necera." The definitive agreement of July 1st brought 
 no decision on this point. To the questions, whether there 
 was still a future prospect that the claims raised for compensa- 
 tion for the illegal treatment of the German Emin Pasha 
 Expedition by the English navy would receive any kind of 
 acknowledgment and satisfaction, or whether all prospect of 
 receiving such compensation must be abandoned, the German 
 Emin Pasha Committee finally received from the Colonial depart- 
 ment of the Foreign Office the answer that compensation for 
 the seizure of the Necera by the English Government was not 
 to be expected. Apart from the occurrences that had accom- 
 panied the commencement of the expedition, the foundation on 
 which such claims could have been enforced in a diplomatic 
 manner had been taken away from the Imperial Government, 
 by the fact that the committee had not adopted the available 
 means for appealing against the judgment of the Prize Court. 
 
 In the report of the English negotiator Anderson on the deci- 
 sion of July 1st, a report which was laid, together with the decision, 
 before the English Parliament, the following passage occurs : — 
 
 " Certain points of difference were specially reserved for 
 negotiation between Dr. Krauel and myself. 
 
 " The first of these related to claims of German subjects 
 connected with the capture of the Necera in Lamu harbour by 
 the British blockading squadron, and her condemnation (.f*) by 
 the Zanzibar Prize Court, and to further claims on account of 
 the alleged refusal of the British blockading squadron to permit 
 the landing at Lamu of some Somali porters engaged for the 
 ■expedition of Dr. Peters into the interior. 
 
 " / have been alle to give satisfactory explanations on loth 
 
 points, and the claims have been withdrawn." 
 
 37 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 SUPPLEMENT IV. 
 
 THE FATE OF THE SECOND COLUMN. 
 
 IN my narrative of the occurrences of Oda-Boru-Ruva, I 
 described in what a painful position I was placed by the 
 non-arrival of all intelligence respecting the second column. 
 At the time I could not at all explain this to myself. It was 
 only afterwards, in Zanzibar and in Europe, that I learned that 
 Lieutenant-Captain Rust had pushed forward beyond Massa to 
 V unite with me, that he had landed a number of articles in the 
 steppe forest, under the care of a Somali, and had then gone back 
 to bring up the rest. Lieutenant-Captain Rust had afterwards 
 lost the greater part of his loads in Kena Kombe by an explo- 
 sion of the powder chests, had afterwards fallen seriously ill, 
 and had returned to Europe. Some messengers whom he 
 despatched to me appear to have been killed. As Lieutenant- 
 Captain Rust has already made public his adventures in a book 
 of his own, " The German Emin Pasha Expedition," which was 
 published by F. Luckhard of Berlin, I may here content myself 
 with referring the curious to his detailed account. 
 
 I shall, accordingly, only subjoin here a short account by 
 Oskar Borchert, which will suffice for the continuity of this, 
 narrative. Herr Borchert intends also to describe and publish 
 his experiences in detail, and his descriptions may be looked 
 forward to with interest. From the following report, it is mani- 
 fest that he set about his task with determination and energy, 
 and that it was not his fault that he did not reach my column. 
 The attempt of Oskar Borchert to overtake us, his march for 
 this object, with a disproportionately small equipment, up the 
 Tana, is in itself an achievement which, indeed, only stands in 
 indirect connection with our expedition, but nevertheless gives 
 Herr Borchert a claim to my acknowledgments, and the approval 
 
APPENDIX. 519 
 
 of the parties interested in Germany. For services must not 
 always be estimated only according to the material results. He 
 who does honour to the German name by the fulfilment of duty, 
 and by courage, serves his nation too, though the effects of such 
 conduct cannot be estimated in figures. This is what Herr 
 Oskar Borchert has done by his march beyond Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
 And now I think it best to let him speak for himself. 
 
 Cakl Peters. 
 
 "To THE Leader of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, 
 Herr Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 " Herewith I transmit to you. Sir, a brief report of my 
 proceedings in connection with the German Emin Pasha Expe- 
 dition. I begin my narrative from the period of our parting in 
 Mbaya, on June 16th, 1889. 
 
 " After we had, on the day before, run into the Kwaihu Bay 
 with the steamer Neoera, and from thence had happily accom- 
 plished the landing of the expedition, I received from you the 
 command of the steamer, with directions to take the articles of 
 barter from Kwaihu Bay to Lamu, to unload them there, to 
 act re steamer Neoera, and then to betake myself, with the 
 articles of barter that could be transported on the camels that 
 were in Lamu, into the Sultanate of Witu, and there to rejoin 
 your column that you had led thither in the meantime. 
 
 " After an exceedingly troublesome passage of three days, 
 against the tide and monsoon, we came in sight of Lamu. But 
 the Necera had sustained great damage from storm and waves ; 
 and the storm, foretold by the captain, came on before we were 
 able to run into the sheltering harbour. Parts of the engine 
 were broken ; the ship, without a rudder, at the mercy of the 
 stormy sea, got off its course into the raging breakers, the wav^s 
 tore away the companion ladder leading to the after deck, there 
 was a foot of water in the saloon, and the captain prepared me 
 for the worst. After many fruitless efforts, we at length suc- 
 ceeded, in this dangerous position, in throwing out the sheet 
 anchor, a difficult thing to do in the situation in which we were. 
 
.180 APPENDIX. 
 
 After temporaril)' repairing the ship, I was able, with the help 
 of a pilot, who had nieaDwhile come aboard at my signal, to 
 run into the harbour of Lamu. 
 
 " The occurrences here, — that is to say, the uncalled-for con- 
 fiscation of our articles of barter and the unjust seizure of the 
 Necera on the part of the English Admiral, Fremantle, — I have 
 already had the honour of reporting to you in detail, in the 
 camp at Hindi. In Hindi I received the order to betake my- 
 self to Zanzibar, and there, by resorting to law proct^edings, to 
 procure the restoration of the Necera. It was only by chance 
 that I succeeded in reaching Zanzibar from Lamu in a steamer 
 of the Sultan line. I now entered an action against the 
 English naval authorities, the captors of our steamer, and 
 addressed a memorial to His Highness the Imperial Chancellor, 
 Prince Bismarck, informed the executive branch of the German 
 Emin Pasha committee of my proceedings by means of a tele- 
 gram, and with the help of an Indian advocate carried through 
 the so-called Necera lawsuit, which in its details was inter- 
 esting. I won it. The Necera with her whole cargo was given 
 up to me ; but by the seizure our expedition had incurred 
 an expense of 54,000 rupees, and in a report transmitted to 
 Berlin I put it to the executive branch of the German Emin 
 Pasha Expedition to decide whether they would appeal against 
 the decision, and institute a separate lawsuit for damages. I 
 transferred the charter of the liberated Necera to Captain Wiss- 
 mann, with the stipulation that he must send me to Lamu in 
 one of his steamers. On September 4th I was at length able 
 to start in the Harmony for Lamu. 
 
 " There I received the news that you. Sir, had already in 
 July started from Witu for Ngoa on the Tana ; according to 
 the instructions left behind for me, I was to follow you to Kitui 
 on the Kenia. I was obliged in Kenia to bring an expedition 
 of my own together for myself, so far as I could manage it ; 
 and I left there on September 12th. Arrived at Witu, I esta- 
 blished friendly relations with the Sultan Tumo Bakari, and 
 from thence led the expedition to Ngoa, to wait there for the 
 remainder of my articles of barter, which I wished to have 
 
APPENDIX. 581 
 
 brought by the maritime route by dhow, through Herr Schlunke, 
 whom I had engaged as far as the mouth of the Tana, to be 
 transported from thence up the Tana as far as Ngoa. After I 
 had waited for some time in vain for Herr Schlunke in Ngoa, 
 there arrived one day from him the bad tidings that the dhow 
 had got on to a sandbank at the Osi mouth and had capsized, 
 whereby many things had been lost, and asking me to come 
 to assist with my people in saving the rest. Just as I was about 
 to start, I received news which had very extensively disagree- 
 able consequences for me, and overthrew all my plans. Lieuten- 
 ant-Captain Rust sent me information from Kena Kombe, a 
 place situate on the Tana, about six days' march above Ngoa, to 
 which place he had meanwhile brought the articles of barter 
 intended for you, that he had lost the greater part of the things, 
 such as guns, ammunition, etc., by a fire, and asking me to help 
 and endeavour to make up the loss of the articles. As I heard 
 at the same time from Lieutenant-Captain Rust that you were 
 going to wait on the Upper Tana for the arrival of the articles 
 of barter, I wrote to Lieutenant-Captain Rust that I would try 
 to parry the blow, and that he should go to you as quickly as 
 possible with the portion of the things that had escaped. With 
 a heavy heart I had now to retrace my steps for the second time. 
 
 " I proceeded with my column through the Belodsomi canal 
 over Kan to Kipini, where with the help of Herr Schlunke I 
 raised the wrecked dhow ; then went on through German Witu 
 land over Mpekotoni to Lamu, made up, by new purchases, for 
 the things that had been burnt, and marched over Mkonumbi to 
 Witu. Here I found news from Berlin, telling how in Germany 
 it was believed the whole expedition had been ruined, and that 
 you yourself had been murdered ; and I also received a letter 
 from the Imperial Commissariat in Zanzibar, wherein was 
 announced the return of Emin with Stanley. These were truly 
 tidings which disturbed me most profoundly. The foremost 
 thing to do was to make certain as to the fate of the first 
 column. 
 
 " On the same day, by a forced ride, I reached Ngoa on the 
 Tana, just as a messenger, Amiri, arrived from Oda-Boru-Ruva, 
 
582 APPENDIX. 
 
 with letters from you, from which I could see that at the time 
 when you were being mourned in Germany as a murdered man 
 you were safe and sound with your column in Oda-Boru-Ruva. 
 I therefore at once sent a despatch to Germany, to quiet the 
 public mind there, in which despatch I stated that it was not 
 the German expedition but an English one that had been 
 destroyed by the Somalis ; that you with your column, as well 
 as Lieutenant von Tiedemann, were in good health, on the 
 Upper Tana. 
 
 "The news of the return of Stanley and Emin Pasha to 
 the coast was officially announced to me by the Imperial Com- 
 missariat; I could no longer doubt it, and was obliged to try and 
 reach you, however small the prospect appeared of my doing so. 
 For some time after I had sent off the despatches to Germany, 
 new rumours were always springing up on the Tana, describing 
 the expedition as having perished, which I certainly did not 
 believe, but which startled me by their continual recurrence. 
 The rumour said that your column had been completely de- 
 stroyed in a fight with the Borani Gallas, and I was enabled 
 to ascertain that nearly all the Gallas who were fit for war, 
 and who lived scattered along the Lower Tana, had gone to 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva. My duty bade me go forward to ascertain 
 the truth. 
 
 " A few days after my departure two of Rust's Somalis over- 
 took me, bringing a mournful message. Rust, whom I supposed 
 to have joined your column long before, was lying sick, they 
 said, in Mnina, in my immediate neighbourhood, and they 
 asked me to come quickly to his rescue, or else he would die, 
 for he had not been able to reach Oda-Boru-Ruva, but had 
 been obliged to turn back, because of his illness. A few forced 
 marches brought me to Rust, and I had the great satisfaction 
 of keeping him alive by my appearance. The situation in 
 which I found him was the most helpless and saddest that can 
 be imagined. I brought Rust by the water route to Kulessa, 
 my last camping-place, and the next morning I had him rowed 
 by a few trustworthy Wapokomo to Ngoa, where he could 
 receive hospitality and every care at the hands of the benevolent. 
 
APPENDIX. . 583 
 
 helpful missionaries. I was told, later on, that Rust had gone 
 to Lamu, and from thence intended to proceed to Europe, by 
 ship, by the first opportunity that offered. I had been pre- 
 pared, by the accounts given by Lieutenant-Captain Rust, to 
 expect all kinds of difficulties and hindrances ; but I may be 
 permitted to say here, that during my march the reality far 
 exceeded all expectation, and my little column, in which I was 
 the only white man, and which at last shrank to six porters, 
 two soldiers, and a few servants, was several times nearly being 
 destroyed altogether. Especially it was the want of water and 
 of guides that brought us into terrible situations. Luckily I 
 was able to support my troop through killing game, which now 
 in the dry season was to be found in great quantities by the 
 Tana. Thus I also had some highly-interesting hunting 
 experiences on my journey. I have further to report, that 
 during my onward march I chose, as a rule, the left-hand Tana 
 territory, which, unexplored as yet, was traversed during the 
 time of my journey by the predaceous tribe of the Kawalalla 
 Somalis, with their great herds of cattle. After many ex- 
 periences of the most varied description, I reached the Galla 
 Sultanate of Oda-Boru-Ruva. The Qallas, from the first, took 
 up a hostile position towards me. 
 
 " Great was my joy when, after long searching in vain, and 
 after using an elephant track leading from the steppe to the 
 river, I found the Von der Heydt House, the station erected 
 by you. 
 
 " The building stood silent and deserted ; but it was a doubly 
 welcome sight to me to see the black, white, and red flag, planted 
 before the station, waving merrily in the wind. 
 
 "As I did not find any direct communication from you 
 there, I sought to obtain, from the Wapokomo and Gallas, upon 
 foraging expeditions which I undertook, authentic information 
 on the fate of your column ; and from the concurrence of the 
 reports I received, I was able to ascertain as certain that the 
 column had not been destroyed, but had marched away in good 
 health and condition from Oda-Boru-Ruva towards Lake Baringo. 
 There was one Galla especially, Parisa by name, who imparted 
 
584 APPENDIX. 
 
 to me the details of your fight with the Gallas, in which Sultan 
 Hugo lost his life. I now also ascertained definitely that you 
 had marched away with the column as long as six or eight weeks 
 before, and that there was no chance of my overtaking you. 
 Still, I would not j^et turn hack ; I was anxious to get as far as 
 the mountain chains that could be descried from the Von der 
 Heydt House. After six days of strenuous marching, I reached 
 the mountain region through which the Tana forces its way. 
 For a day and a half I traversed that district. The furthest 
 13lace I reached was called Garebantai. 
 
 " My march back led me again to Oda-Boru-Ruva. In the 
 meantime a number of Gallas had banded themselves together 
 here, and during a two days' rest I took they twice tried to 
 surprise me, but each time they were driven off" by volleys of 
 musketry. When I began my retreat, my situation was an 
 unfavourable one. Already on my arrival at Oda-Boru-Ruva I 
 had no articles of barter left, my ammunition was decreasing at 
 a serious .rate, and some of my people, footsore and enfeebled, 
 entirely gave in. 
 
 " I now chose for my march the region on the right bank of 
 the Tana, to get acquainted with this part likewise. Though I 
 had to contend with difficulties of various kinds, and myself fell 
 ill at last through want of water and proper provisions, I had 
 many interesting experiences during this part of my journey. 
 At length I reached the abode of the hospitable missionaries on 
 the Tana, and here I still had the opportunity to observe the 
 arrangement and management of the Mission ; then I went on 
 to Lamu, fi-om whence I at once despatched to Germany the 
 news that you had left the Tana station with your column in 
 good health, and were probably across the Baringo. In the 
 beginning of March I reached Zanzibar once more ; there I 
 fe'^aw Emin Pasha, and was able to deliver to him some of the 
 things our expedition had brought from Germany. 
 " I have the honour to sign myself 
 " Your most obedient 
 
 " OSKAR BORCHERT." 
 
APPENDIX. 585 
 
 SUPPLEMENT V. 
 
 THE UGANDA TREATY. 
 
 ENTRE le roi Mwanga Kabaka du Bouganda, et le Dr. Carl 
 Peters est agr^e le suivant traite preliminaire. 
 
 Le roi Mwanga accepte les stipulations du traite de 
 Berlin (acte de Congo), fevrier 1885, pour ce qui a rapport au 
 Bouganda et k ses pays tributaires. II ouvre ces pays k tons 
 les sujets de Sa Majeste I'Empereur d'Allemagne, comme k tons 
 les autres Europeens. II garantit aux sujets de Sa Majeste 
 I'Empereur d'Allemagne, comme aux autres Europeens qui 
 voudront en profiter, entiere liberte de commerce, liberte de 
 passage, liberte de residence dans le Bouganda et tons les pays 
 tributaires. 
 
 Le roi Mwanga entre en amitie avec Sa Majeste I'Empereur 
 d'Allemagne, et re9oit la liberte de commerce, liberte de passage, 
 et liberte de residence pour ses sujets, dans tons les territoires 
 de Sa Majeste I'Empereur d'Allemagne. 
 
 Dr. Carl Peters se charge de proposer la ratification de ce 
 traits preliminaire au gouvernement allemand. 
 
 Ce traite est fait en langue kiganda, kiswahili et fran^ais. 
 En cas de diff^rente interpretation le texte fran9ais seul fera 
 foi. 
 
 21 fivrier, 1890. 
 
 Signed 
 
 (-Mwanga, Kabaka wa Buganda ; and all 
 the great men of the land. 
 
 Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 Temoin. 
 
 Simeon Lourdel, Superieur de la Mis- 
 sion Catholique de Bouganda. 
 
 LUGANDA. 
 
 Kilagano ekyo ekisose, Mwanga kabaka wa Buganda kye 
 alayana na Dr. Carl Peters. 
 
 Kabaka Mwanga, ebigambo eby o Buganda ne bye nsi 
 
586 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 eziingila mu Buganpa ebyatabibwa mu Kilagano kya Berlin 
 (acte du Congo, fevrier 1885) abikkiriza. Ate abantu bonna 
 aba kabaka wa Budatshi, abawa nga bwe yawa abazongu bonna 
 obwinza bwo kuja mu nsi ye. Ate abantu bonna aba kabaka 
 wa Budatshi abalaganya nga bwe abaganya abazongu bonna 
 abalyagala, obwinza bwonna o bwo buguzi, o bwo kutambula, 
 ne bwo kuzimba mu nsi ya Buganda ne nsi zonna eziingila mu. 
 
 Ate kabaka Mwanga aingidde mu ayagalo mkwano gwa 
 kabaka o Mukuru wa budatshi, ate abantu be bonna ne bawebwa 
 bwinza o bwo buguzi, ne bwinza bwo kutambula no bwinza 
 bwo kuzimba mu nsi zomu za kabaka o Mukuru wa budatshi. 
 
 Dr. Carl Peters alitwala ekilayano ekyo ekisose, eri Governe- 
 ment datshi, kitukkirizibwe. 
 
 Kilagano- ekyo ba kiwandise mu luswaili ne luganda ne 
 lufransa naye oba walio empaka mu bigambo olufransa Ime 
 lulisara o msango. 
 
 27 fehruari, 1890. 
 
 Mwanga, Kabaka wa Buganda. 
 Dr. Carl Peters. 
 Simeon Louedel. 
 
 THE END. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Aberdare Range, the, 210. 
 
 Accident, a tragic, 258. 
 
 Achmed Somali, death of, 285. 
 
 Aden, proceedings at, 22. 
 
 Adventurous boat voyage, 161. 
 
 African tobacco, 442 ; . character, 499 ; 
 ideas of trade, 500 ; colonisation, 
 improved prospects for, 588. 
 
 Agreement, the London, 133. 
 
 Ali Somal, arrival of, 304. 
 
 Ambassadress, a Massai, dialogue 
 with, 250. 
 
 Amdalla, porter, 210. 
 
 Ammunition, serious expenditure in, 
 240 ; makeshift, 524. 
 
 Ancient records, their teaching, 418 ; 
 maps and charts, 420, 421. 
 
 Angata-na-Nyuki, march to the, 290. 
 
 Announcement, a startling, 263. 
 
 Ants and mosquitoes, 85. 
 
 Anxious night, an, 242. 
 
 Appendix, 561. 
 
 Arab treachery, a piece of, 109; ac- 
 count of Ancient Egypt, 424 ; 
 trader, Mohammed Bin Omari, 517. 
 Arabs, conversation with, 282 ; visit 
 from, 284 , in Uganda, 391 ; and 
 Africans, undependable, 477 ; flight 
 of, 486 ; of Mkondogna, 552. 
 Arendt, Herr, explanatory to the 
 
 English, 400. 
 Arendt Bay, 350. 
 
 Articles of barter, 49 ; of the Uganda, 
 
 treaty, 389. 
 Augusta Victoria Pall, 201. 
 Aztecs, ancient sepulchres of, 423. 
 
 B. 
 
 Baale, arrival in, 458. 
 
 Badutschi, the, achievements of, 518. 
 
 Bagamoyo, passage to, 30 ; departure 
 from, 83 ; march to, 555. 
 
 Bamberger, his philosophy, 206. 
 
 Banana, the, as food and drink, 351 ; 
 capacities of the tree, 408. 
 
 Banquet, a sumptuous, 540. 
 
 Barakka, formidable accident of, 179. 
 
 Baringo Lake, its surrovmdings, 267 ; 
 shores of, 272. 
 
 Basilid, Br., his plantations, 555. 
 
 Belgians, King of, his offer, 544. 
 
 Beyma people, the, 416. 
 
 Bin Omari, 517 ; interview with, 518 ; 
 homage of, 519 ; his caravan, 531. 
 
 Bismarck, Count Herbert von, com- 
 munication from, 16. 
 
 Bismarck, Prince, encouragement 
 from, 12 ; change of front, 14. 
 
 Bley, Herr, departure of, 31. 
 
 Boadicea, the, 49. 
 
 Boatmen, dUatoriness of, 443. 
 
 Bonfire, a grand, 189. 
 
 Borchert and the Ifeosra, 55. 
 
 Brag, a game of, 229. 
 
588 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bridge, failure of, across the Tana, 200. 
 British blockade, I'elations with, 566. 
 British East African Company, the, 
 
 544. 
 Buana Mku, parting with, 284 ; mis; 
 
 behaviour of, 468. 
 Buana Shama promises a guide, 79. 
 Bubo river, the, 531. 
 Budduland, 451. 
 Bukerebe, island of, 468. 
 Bukoba, advantages of, 542. 
 Bulingogwe, 437. 
 Bumbide, island of, 469. 
 Busiba, settlement of, 502. 
 
 0. 
 
 Camel, the voracious, 287 ; death of 
 
 the last, 28. 
 Camp, poetry of life, 79 ; fortifying 
 
 the, 258; Stanley's, 344. 
 Camping, among friends, 269 ; ground, 
 
 a confused, 278, a pleasant, 401. 
 Canal, Siyu, 42. 
 Candle manufacture, 284. 
 Cannibal fowls, 514. 
 Caravan, the Wanjamwesi, 531 ; 
 
 Mohammed Bin Omari's, 531 ; 
 
 under the German flag, 533. 
 Centipede, a, 510. 
 " Chief," confidence in the, 261. 
 Christianity, prospects of supremacy, 
 
 404. 
 Chi-istmas Eve, a disturbed, 245. 
 CiviHsation, effect of Stanley's ex- 
 pedition upon, 548. 
 CiviKsed hf e, delights and luxuries of, 
 
 452, 488. 
 Coldness of nights, 218. 
 Combat, a, 289. 
 
 Commissariat, importance of the, 277. 
 Cooking under ditficulties, 296. 
 Crocodiles, ferocity of, 490. 
 Culinary science and sport, 206. 
 
 D. 
 
 Dar-es-Salam, 33. 
 
 Deluge, a, 510. 
 
 Demand, a categoric, 186. 
 
 Deserter, arrival of a, 286. 
 
 Desertion, tendency to, 340. 
 
 Desolate region of horror, a, 376. 
 
 Dhow navigation, dangers of, 41. 
 
 Dialects, Suaheli and Kiganda, 417. 
 
 Dika, fording the, 208. 
 
 Discipline, strict, 94; necessity for, 
 
 384. 
 Discrepancy between Stanley's and 
 
 Emin Pasha's accounts, 545. 
 Djuma, 473. 
 
 Dongo Gelesha Range, the, 252. 
 Donkeys, two useful, 497 ; mischance 
 
 through, 512. 
 Dream, a curious, 293. 
 Dsagga, land of, 182. 
 Dumo, description of, 459. 
 
 E. 
 
 East African disturbances, progress 
 of, 10. 
 
 Eclipse of the sun, 243 ; effect on 
 Massais, 244. 
 
 Elbejet, chief kraal of, 230 ; reception, 
 at, 231 ; attacks on, 236, 239. 
 
 Elgejo, land of, 279 ; people of, 285 ;. 
 great plateau, 288. 
 
 Elgon rock dwellings, 424. 
 
 Elmordn, the, among the Massais,- 
 226 ; villages, 227 ; attack by the, 
 237; kraal fired, 241. 
 
 Emin Pasha, services of, 4 ; conflict- 
 ing rumours concerning, 14; ac- 
 counts of, 305, 306 ; proposal to, 
 316 ; conjectures about, 339 ; ques- 
 tion of his whereabouts, 344 ; 
 tidings of, 533 ; Dr. Peters's meet- 
 ing with, 536; approbation of, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 589 
 
 338 ; consultation with, 540 ; in 
 the German service, 541 ; carried 
 off by Stanley, 543 ; his position on 
 the Upper Nile, 544 ; discrepancy 
 between his accounts and Stanley's, 
 545 ; compelled to follow Stanley, 
 545; estimate of Stanley, 546 ; char- 
 acter and amiable qualities, 549 ; 
 photographic portraits of, 550 ; Dr. 
 Peters's parting from, 551. 
 
 Emin Pasha German Expedition pro- 
 jected, 3 ; managing committee 
 appointed, 5, 7 ; resolution for post- 
 ponement, 12. 
 
 Encampment at Ischioragama, 373 ; 
 a primitive, 471 ; in Bandelundo, 
 472; at Kuru, 473; at Kabila, 
 496 ; Emin's, 537 ; a jovial, 540. 
 
 Engatana, departure for, 76 ; camp 
 at, 97. 
 
 England, question of co-operation 
 with, 11. 
 
 Enterprise, a dangerous, 367. 
 
 Envoys, account of themselves, 343. 
 
 Europe, startling news from, 538. 
 
 Expedition, Dr. Peters's, frustrated by . 
 Stanley's undertaking, 548 ; an- 
 other German, 554. 
 
 Emin Pasha, resources of, 31 ; 
 
 division of, 56 ; strength of, 70 ; 
 a previous, 276. 
 
 English, rumours of, 95 ; traces 
 
 of, 120; letters for, 359. 
 expected British East African, 
 
 316. 
 
 - German, 3, 5, 7 ; preparations 
 for, 17 ; difficulties to be encoun- 
 tered, 18 ; plan of, 221 ; use of, 478. 
 
 idea of a new, 479. 
 
 Mr. Pigott and his, 132 ; traces 
 
 of, 165. 
 
 Mr. Smith's, 96, 132 ; reported 
 
 defeat of, 117. 
 
 Thomson's, 222. 
 
 Mr. de Winton's, 275. 
 
 Extract of report to Emin Pasha 
 committee, 29. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fabian tactics possible, 244. 
 
 Famiae, prospect of, 169. 
 
 Feast, a, for the black men, 241. 
 
 Fever, return of, 513. 
 
 Fighting, the best tactics in, 309. 
 
 Fire, an accidelital, 266 ; fire signal, 
 120. 
 
 Flag, the German, advantages to, 399 ; 
 caravan under, 533 ; hoisting, 113, 
 136, 258, 486; at Njemps, 273. 
 
 Flagstaff struck by lightning, 448. 
 
 Foreign Office, endeavours to interest, 
 28. 
 
 Forest scene, grand, 201. 
 
 Fremantle, Admiral, conference with, 
 32 ; proceedings of, 41 ; congratula- 
 tions from, 559; relations with, 566. 
 
 French Mission, the, 384, 451. 
 
 missionary boats, 456. 
 
 station, arrangements of the, 
 
 452 ; Sunday at, 454. 
 
 Fugitives on the Tana, 155. 
 
 Fumo Bukari's declaration of friend^ 
 ship, 68. 
 
 Funga Sombo, swamp and forest of, 
 65. 
 
 G. 
 
 Galamba, 154. 
 
 GaUa, arrival at settlement, 122. 
 
 guides, the, 162. 
 
 regions, 116. 
 
 Gallas, the, as police, 85; with the, 
 in Oda-Boru-Ruva, 124; descrip- 
 tion of, 126, 127 ; sojourn among, 
 137 ; unsatisfactory relations with, 
 139 ; decisive measures against, 
 141 ; policy to be adopted towards, 
 149; delays of, 153. 
 
590 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Gall-Galla, cunning of, 144. 
 
 Game animals, a region of, 505. 
 
 German Government, embarrassing 
 position with regard to, 15. 
 
 German station, the friends at, 536. 
 
 Germany, lively interest in, of expe- 
 dition, 10. 
 
 Gnare Gobit, crossing the, 228. 
 
 Gordon, Mr., missionary, and Walker, 
 379 ; objections of, 392 ; explana- 
 tion to King Muanga, 394. 
 
 Grain, scarcity of, 117; stores seized, 
 142 ; .necessity of providing, 153. 
 
 Gratitude of Emin Pasha for small 
 services, 550. 
 
 Gretchen-Thal, the, camping in, 220. 
 
 Guaso na Nyuki, crossing the, 268. 
 
 Narok, march by the, 259. 
 
 Nyiro, region of, 217; river. 
 
 219. 
 — Tien 
 
 264; 
 
 of. 
 
 265. 
 
 Guide, an inefficient, 81 ; the incorri- 
 gible, 289. 
 
 Guides, arrangement for, 283 ; three 
 Elgejo, 288. 
 
 Gumr and El Gumi, 425. 
 
 H. 
 
 Halt, a compulsory, 257. 
 
 Hameje, glorious, and its islands, 
 
 158. 
 Hamiri, failure of, 97 ; imaginative 
 
 eloquence of, 103 ; arrival with the 
 
 miaus, 113 ; his quarrel with Pem- 
 
 bomoto, 118. 
 Hammock travelling, 514. 
 Hannington, Bishop, relics of his 
 
 party, 350 ; his murder, 364. 
 HauteccEur, the Pfere Procureur, 
 
 484. 
 Heddenstrbm, missionary, 98. 
 Heroes, various kinds of, 385. 
 
 Hindi, the rendezvous at, 51; start 
 
 from, 59. 
 Hippopotamus shooting, 203. 
 Hirth, Monseigneur, welcome by, 482. 
 Hofmann Falls, the, 159. 
 Hostage, Sultan as a, 115. 
 Hostility, tokens of, 176. 
 Human life, cheap estimate of, 358. 
 Hussein, his idea of justice, 119. 
 Hussein, the expert cook, 459. 
 Hussein Fara's comparisons, 181. 
 Hussein Sheriff, conversation with, 73. 
 
 Idyar el Wali's account of the Nile,, 
 
 425. 
 Industry, a prosperous region of, 480. 
 Ingenuity, mechanical, developed, 386. 
 Insolence, a decided check to, 523. 
 Instructing the Somalis, 76. 
 Insurrectionary districts to be avoided,. 
 
 19. 
 Intertropical starlight, 137. 
 Intei-vention, importance of, 273. 
 Iramba, people of, 508 ; plateau, 511. 
 Ischioragama, encampment at, 373. 
 
 J. 
 
 Jack, Mr., proceedings of, 318. 
 
 Jibije, 164. 
 
 " Junker " Range, march through 
 
 the, 334. 
 Justice, to be shown and enforced, 
 
 193. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kabaragas, exciting news in, 516. 
 Kabaras, fortunate route to, 296. 
 Kabila, encampment at, 496. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 591 
 
 Kamanyiro Kanta, 355 ; career of, 
 356 ; his one-eyed men, 364 ; de- 
 claration of understanding with, 
 370, 371 ; diplomacy of, 373 ; sum- 
 mary dismissal of, 374 ; his appre- 
 hensions, 375 ; joins procession, 376. 
 
 Kamasia Plateau, climbing to the, 
 278. 
 
 Kampi, arrival at, 535. 
 
 Karema chosen king, 314 ; defiance 
 to, 435. 
 
 Karl Alexander Fall, 205. 
 
 Katikiro, visit of the, 383 ; refusal of, 
 to sign the Uganda treaty, 390; 
 rush to house of, 396 ; sentiments 
 of, 429 ; intrigues, 433. 
 
 Katonga, sailing by mouth of the, 
 451. 
 
 Kawirondo, report on, 283 ; people 
 of, 297. 
 
 Keletesa, cordial behaviour of, 503. 
 
 Kenia Mountain, the, 210 ; Peak, 
 219. 
 
 Kidori on the Tana, 116. 
 
 Kikuyu, stay at, 213 ; mode of killing 
 cattle, 252. 
 
 Kilima Tindi Eidge, 520. 
 
 Kiloluma river, erroneous theory of, 
 181. 
 
 Kina Kombe, arrival at. 111. 
 
 Kirobani, the guide, 286, 287. 
 
 KiswahiU and Kisogo languages, 322. 
 
 Kiwewa, the rule of, 313. 
 
 Kome, arrival at, 473. 
 
 Konse, solemn entry into, 212. 
 
 Kraal, burning of a, 239. 
 
 Kraals, fortified, 230. 
 
 Krapf country, 203 ; Hill, 207. 
 
 Krapf's conjectures concerning the 
 Tana, 162. 
 
 Krupp Movintain, 185. 
 
 " Kupanda Sharo " feeling, 188; ac- 
 quaintance declined, 534. 
 
 Kwaihu Peak and Island, 38 ; Bay, 
 arrival at, 39. 
 
 Kwam Yagallo, arrival at, 534. 
 
 Kwa Sakwa, 303. 
 
 Sundu, advance to, 311. 
 
 Telessa, march to, 335 ; de- 
 scription of, 336. 
 
 Tindi, particulars concerning,^ 
 
 333. 
 
 Tunga, march to, 335. 
 
 L. 
 
 Lake Victoria, fish in, 445 ; after 
 a storm, 448 ; under a new as- 
 pect, 449 ; flat shores of, 458 ; 
 view of, 470; volcanic region of, 
 471. 
 
 Landmark, a useful, 292. 
 
 Languages, comparison of, 416. 
 
 Leikipia, elevated plateau, 163, 219. 
 
 Letter-carrying, dangers of, 457. 
 
 Letters. — To a possible Eiu-opean, 
 297; of P6re Lourdel, 319; of Dr. 
 Peters, 340 ; of Pfere Denoit, 345 ; 
 to Monseigneur L6on Livinhac, 
 346 ; for the English expedition, 
 359 ; from King Muanga, 369 ; of 
 Dr. Peters to Mr. Gordon, 374; 
 answer, 377 ; to King Muanga, 
 392 ; to M. Lourdel, 396 ; to Herr 
 Arendt, 398 ; Mr. Jackson's, 431 ; 
 Muanga's imploring, 434; Gabriel's,. 
 436 ; the Katikiro's, and Dr. 
 Peters's reply, 449 ; P6re Lourdel's, 
 463 ; Monseigneur Livinhao's, 464 ; 
 from Dr. Peters to executive com- 
 mittee of German Emin Pasha 
 committee, 566 ; to Captain Car- 
 dale, etc., 573. 
 
 Lindi Mountains, circuit round, 532. 
 
 Lion hunting, an attempt at, 491. 
 
 Livinhac, Monseigneur, 401 ; opinions 
 of, 405 ; mentioned, 452 ; inten- 
 tions of, 455 ; waiting for, 490. 
 
 Loanga, stay at, 552. 
 
592 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lourdel, Father, 379 ; his ideas, 381 ; 
 his quarters, 387 ; about Stanley 
 and Emin, 440 ; energetic measures 
 of, 443 ; fatal consequences of 
 wet to, 444 ; parting with Peters, 
 445. 
 
 M. 
 
 Mackay, Mr., despatch, 313 ; opinion 
 of, 315; his influence, 453. 
 
 Mackinnon, Sir William's, bold plan, 
 441. 
 
 Magic ceremonial, 216. 
 
 Maize fields, tribute from, 110. 
 
 Makenge and Stanley, 522 ; his mes- 
 senger rebuked, 525 ; submission 
 of, 530 ; sends tribute, 531. 
 
 Malalulu, German flag hoisted at, 
 113. 
 
 Mandutto, water found by, 262 ; 
 departure of, 513. 
 
 Mansamarabu, camp at, 63. 
 
 Maps and ancient charts, 420, 421. 
 
 Marawa, passage of the, 211. 
 
 March, a weary, 119; triumphal, to 
 Oda - Boru - Ruva, 123 ; through 
 mountain regions, 191 ; of Decem- 
 ber 24th, 244 ; by the Guaso 
 Narok, 259 ; through the Junker 
 Range, 334 ; to Kwa Telessa, 335 ; 
 towards the west, 340 ; dietary on, 
 442 ; a gloomy, 376 ; a morning's, 
 497 ; through the wilderness, 506 ; 
 towards the east, 523 ; to Baga- 
 moyo, 555. 
 
 Marching, routine of, 121. 
 
 Marco, 342, 347. 
 
 Marenga Mkah country, 535. 
 
 Marfano, the boats at, 88. 
 
 Marka, 25. 
 
 Marongo submits to his fate, 187 ; 
 securely guarded, 192 ; a gentleman 
 at large, 212. 
 
 Marthe, the, arms shipped on board, 
 21. 
 
 Massa, arrival at, 114. 
 
 Massacre, danger of, 432. 
 
 Massai herds, 229 ; hostile appear- 
 ance of, 253 ; real condition of 
 country, 476. 
 
 Massailands, guide to the, 217. 
 
 Massais, the, management of, 222 ; 
 character of, 224 ; equipment and 
 marriage, 227 ; systematic speech 
 to the, 233 ; preparations to fight 
 them, 235 ; routed, 241 ; re-appear- 
 ance of, 248 ; peace proposal from, 
 249 ; excluded from camp, 251 ; 
 fear of, 300. 
 
 Mbaja, 44. 
 
 Mbe people, communication with the, 
 191. 
 
 Mboni, native of, 117. 
 
 Mbuji, crossing the Tana at, 108. 
 
 Mengo, royal tombs at, 422. 
 
 Mfoh, arrival at, 427. 
 
 Mgine, landing at, 50. 
 
 Miau, the captured, 94. 
 
 Miaus, and grain, failure of contract 
 for, 88 ; a supply of, 110. 
 
 Mission, Catholic, thoroughness of, 
 385. 
 
 station, Nyagesi, 474, 484. 
 
 Missionaries, Mr. Stanley's opinion 
 of, 317. 
 
 Missionary, an English, 543. 
 
 Mitole, dangers at, 99 ; complaints of 
 elders, 102. 
 
 Mkondogna, Arabs of, 552. 
 
 Monsoon, the, 89. 
 
 Mountain ranges, discovery of, 146 ; 
 region a, 218. 
 
 Mountains of the Moon, 419 ; the 
 Emperor William II., 161. 
 
 Mpuapua, 536 ; station of, 539. 
 
 Mrogro, short hoUday at, 554. 
 
 Msanga, an early start for, 533. 
 
 Muanga, son of Mtesa, 313 ; at the 
 
INDEX. 
 
 593 
 
 Sesse Islands, 314 ; position of, 315 ; 
 victory of, 318 ; his message to 
 Europe, and civility, 433 ; proposal 
 to write to, 344 ; and the English, 
 347 ; his uncle, 355 ; letter from, 
 369 ; message to, 377 ; audiences 
 of, 379, 384 ; friendUness of, 380 ; 
 palace of, 387 ; private interview 
 with, 388; desire concerning slavery, 
 402 ; dispute with the Katikiro, 
 432 ; plain speech of, 394. 
 
 Muina, difficult march to, 104 ; de- 
 parture by the boats from, 106. 
 
 Musa devoured by a crocodile, 490. 
 
 N. 
 
 Napoleon Gulf, the, 350. 
 
 Nature, grand solitude of, 291. 
 
 Nderani, fortified camp at, 109. 
 
 Ndinga, 494. 
 
 Neoera, the, chartered at heavy cost, 
 28 ; arrival at Zanzibar, 29 ; run- 
 ning out from Dar-es-Salam, 34 ; 
 brought to book, 51 ; lawsuit, 55, 
 574. 
 
 Negroes, severity necessary with, 
 192. 
 
 Nera k)untry, 498. 
 
 Ngao, seeking for, 82 ; German mis- 
 sionary station, 83 ; march from, 
 87. 
 
 Nile, the, questions concerning, 336 ; 
 Emin's position on Upper, 344 ; 
 arrival at, 365 ; passage across, 366. 
 
 Njemps, start for, 263 ; arrival at, 
 268. 
 
 Nocturnal festival, 115.' 
 
 Nogola, misbehaviour and punish- 
 ment of, 171. 
 
 Nomadic herdsmen, social status of, 
 224 ; propensities and deportment 
 of, 225. 
 
 Nugula, arrival of — report, 441, 442. 
 
 O. 
 
 Oda-Boru-Ruva, triiunphal march to, 
 123; with the Gallas in, 124; 
 communication with, 273. 
 
 Omar Idle's exploit, 195. 
 
 One-eyed men, Kamanyiro's, 364. 
 
 Optical delusion, a strange, 200. 
 
 Papyrus swamps, 259. 
 
 Parisa's neglect, 169. 
 
 Path, a difficult, 264. 
 
 Peace, proposals of, from Massais, 
 249. 
 
 Pemba Motu, 279. 
 
 Pembomoto's quarrel with Hamiri, 
 118. 
 
 Peters, Dr., appointed commander in 
 the Emin Pasha Expedition, 8 ; his 
 opinion of route, 13 ; expedition to 
 start under, 17 ; illness of, 89 ; 
 proposed route of, 148; speech to 
 the Wandorobbo, 167 ; account of 
 himself, 283; proposal of, 338; 
 experimental letter of, 340; pro- 
 posal to visit Unjoro, 343 ; further 
 intentions of, 349 ; , definite in- 
 structions of, 371 ; reply to Ka- 
 manyiro, 373; advice to Muanga, 
 381; letter to Muanga, 393; pro- 
 poses to fight Kimbulu, 395 ; reply 
 to Muanga's declaration, 432 ; will 
 attack Karema, 435; incredulity 
 of, 440; attacked by fever, 492; 
 parting of, from Emin Pasha, 551 ; 
 return to Europe, 559. 
 
 Plenty, a region of, 342. 
 
 Philological studies, 96. 
 
 Poisoned arrows, attack with, 172. 
 
 Political missionary interference, 317. 
 
 Porters, disregard of apphcation to 
 hire, 27 ; unruliness of, 61 ; rewards 
 38 
 
594 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 and pvinishments of, 62 ; import- 
 ance of, 86 ; exciting news concern- 
 ing, 105; poor Amdalla, 210; 
 cheating, 216; desertion of, 260; 
 from the English expedition, 303. 
 
 Poscho, distribution of, 488. 
 
 Potentate, a jovial, 354. 
 
 Purchasing supplies, 271. 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quarrel of Pembomoto and Hamiri, 
 
 118. 
 Question of ways and means, 270 ; of 
 
 reprisals, 279. 
 
 R. 
 
 Eainy season, the, 58 ; and sickness, 
 
 89 ; stormy indications of, 179. 
 Ratification by spitting, 174. 
 Rebellion raised by Muanga, 314. 
 " Red letter day," a, 202. 
 Reichardt's opinion, 221. 
 Reports, missing, 146. 
 Resolution for unity of command, 15. 
 Rhinoceros hunting, 204. 
 Ripon Falls, 366, 367. 
 Routes, Thomson's, unadvisable, in dry 
 
 season, 260; northern and southern, 
 
 551. 
 Rukua, first servant to Dr. Peters, 80 ; 
 
 as interpreter, 232 ; fatal accident 
 
 to, 368 ; death and burial, 369. 
 Rumours, disquieting, 340. 
 Rust, Lieut.-Capt., 20 ; instructions 
 
 for, 148 ; measures to be taken by, 
 
 149. 
 Rust's column, waiting for, 146. 
 
 Sakwa, Sultan, possessions of, 302 ; 
 politeness of, 308; treaty with, 310. 
 
 Sango and the fleet, 460. 
 
 Sanguke river, the, 505. 
 
 Schopenhauer's philosophy, 250. 
 
 Schweinfurth, Professor, first ideas of 
 expedition, 2. 
 
 " Schweinfurth Fall," 207. 
 
 Sesse Islands, the outline of, 446 ; 
 starting afresh for, 450 ; beautiful 
 landscape of, 451. 
 
 Settlement, new, the Von der Heydt 
 House, 138. 
 
 Severity necessary with negroes, 
 192. 
 
 " Shauri " with porters, 85. 
 
 Shimbye, landing in, 43 ; passage to, 
 44 ; doings at, 47. 
 
 Short allowance, 94. 
 
 Siyu, recruiting at, 39. 
 
 Siyu Canal, a new plan, 42. 
 
 Somali Achmed, death of, 285. 
 
 Somalis, the character of, 58 ; friend- 
 ly demonstrations of, 72 ; untrust- 
 worthy messengers, 94 ; the hostile, 
 143 ; excited, prospects of plunder, 
 175; and "strayed" cattle, 177; 
 the discouraged, 254. 
 
 Soswa, course towards, 470 ; islands, 
 471. 
 
 Spitting, ratification by, 174. 
 
 Sport and culinary science, 206. 
 
 Stanley, H. M., departure of, for 
 Africa, 2 ; camp of, 344 ; his re- 
 fusal to march to Uganda, 345 ; 
 report from, 360 ; and the Moun- 
 tains of the Moon, 419 ; achieve- 
 ments of, 479 ; and Makenge, 522 ; 
 carries off" Emin, criticism of pro- 
 ceedings, 543 ; discrepancy between 
 his accounts and Emin Pasha's, 
 545 ; Emin's estimate of, and 
 opinion of Dr. Peters, 546 ; inde- 
 cision, 547. 
 
 Stephano, serious advice to, 455. 
 
 Steppe, the, animal life and climate 
 of, 101; marching through, 120; 
 
INDEX. 
 
 595 
 
 its plants and animals, etc., 209 ; 
 difficult march across, 257. 
 
 Stokes, Mr., enterprise of, 315; his 
 establishment in Ukumbi, 487 ; 
 business activity of, 500. 
 
 Stuhlmann, Dr., meeting with, 537. 
 
 Suaheli the, of the Tana, 126. 
 
 Subakini, English station at, 112. 
 
 Suffering, remembrances of, 99. 
 
 Sultana, the unladylike, 512. 
 
 Sultanas of Wachore, 354. 
 
 Sultans : — Hugo, of Gallas, 125, 
 negotiations with, 129, his conces- 
 sions, 131, great consviltation with, 
 133, remonstrance of, 139 ; Sadeh, 
 144 ; Gollo, 144 ; Sakwa, of Kawi- 
 rondo, messages from, 301, proposal 
 of, 307 ; of Kwa Sundu, visit from, 
 312 ; Telessa, visit of, 336, second 
 interview with, 338, his messen- 
 gers, 339 ; Wachore, power of, 353 ; 
 Kilioma, address to, 509 ; a seH- 
 iadulgent, 511; Wagogo sues for 
 peace, 526. 
 
 Sunstroke, symptoms of, 530. 
 
 Supper, a comfortable, 256. 
 
 Swamp, a difficu.lt and dangerous, 
 506, 507. 
 
 T. 
 
 TabaUro, departure from, 466. 
 
 Tabora, occupation of, advised, 541. 
 
 Talabanga, 342. 
 
 Tana, proposed route by, to Equa- 
 torial Province, 13 ; arrival at, 83 ; 
 on the banks of, 93 ; scenery of the, 
 100 ; exhilarating climate of, 101 ; 
 crossing at Mbuji, 108 ; lowest 
 middle course of, 114, 129; fire 
 signal at, 120 ; landscape near Oda- 
 Boru-Ruva, 129; how to get to it, 
 142 ; settlement on, 157 ; mountain 
 chains of, 161 ; question of fords, 
 
 178; great cataract of, 181; 
 abortive attempts to cross, 198; 
 sinking, 196 ; how to build a 
 bridge across, 197; rising, 198; 
 difficult again, 205 ; tributaries of 
 the, 207 ; difficulty of, overcome, 
 209. 
 
 Teleki Eock, the, 252. 
 
 Tell, death of, 205. 
 
 Tempests, tropical, 414. 
 
 Thomson, effect of his treatment of 
 Massais, 222 ; " Among the Mas- 
 sai," 299. 
 
 Thoughts in the solitude of nature, 
 507. 
 
 Thunderstorms, 291, 448. 
 
 Tiedemann, Herr von, 21 ; illness of, 
 187, 257, 271, 493, 505, 514, 552 ; 
 position of, 176; in peril, 238 ; joy- 
 ful meeting with, 256 ; grave 
 condition of, 261 ; departure of, to 
 Lake Victoria, 401 ; meeting of 
 Peters with, 451 ; ill again, 554 ; 
 return to Europe, 559. 
 
 Tiedemann Hill, 160. 
 
 Tippoo Tib, Stanley's relation with, 
 546. 
 
 Tombs at Mengo, 422, 423. 
 
 Traces of travellers, 209. 
 
 Trade, egotistical ideas of, 184; with 
 Wakikuyu, 215; important, 390, 
 391 ; routes of caravan, opening a 
 direct, 501. 
 
 Treaty between Dr. Peters and Sul- 
 tan Sadeh, 135, 145; of peace, 
 251 ; signing the Uganda, 390 ; 
 assembly concerning, 393 ; articles 
 of the Uganda, 389 ; the Uganda, 
 585. 
 
 Tribute, payment of, a mistake, 498 ; 
 disagreeable question of, 522; re- 
 newed demand of, 524 ; Makenge's, 
 531. 
 
 Tropical storm, a, 221. 
 
596 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 TJ. 
 
 Uganda, chances of an attempt on, 
 316 ; up to, 362 ; journey towards, 
 363 ; first encampment in, 367 ; 
 through desert, 371 ; treaty, 389, 
 585 ; important trade of, 390; and 
 slave trade, 402 ; cruelty of the 
 people, climatic advantages of, 
 414; diiSculties in, 429 ; a lady in, 
 430. 
 
 TJgogo, district of, 517. 
 
 Unjoro, 343. 
 
 Ukamba Kifcui, steppe of, 207. 
 
 Ukumbi, 473 ; removal to, 481 ; road 
 through, 484 ; Mr. Stokes's esta- 
 blishment in, 487; order of day 
 in, 488 ; start from, 494. 
 
 Ukumbi fever, 502. 
 
 Usagara, arrival at, 551. 
 
 Usoga, pleasant life in, 348 ; scenery 
 of, 349. 
 
 Usukuma, important trade with, 391 ; 
 dry season in, 485 ; general aspect 
 of, 486 ; a dandy of, 502. 
 
 Usure, settlement of, 510 ; impor- 
 tance of, 513; departure from, 
 514. 
 
 Uweri-weri, 515. 
 
 Victoria, Lake, fish in, 445 ; under 
 a new aspect, 449 ; flat shores of, 
 458 ; view of, 470 ; volcanic region 
 of, 471. 
 
 Visit to Wachore, 357. 
 
 Visitor, a mysterious, 341. 
 
 Volcanic region, 265 ; formation, 
 334. 
 
 Voltaire, our Kikuyu, 251. 
 
 Von der Heydt House, 138 ; Islands, 
 157. 
 
 W. 
 
 Wachore, friendly relations with, 353 ; 
 visit of, 355. 
 
 Wadelai, 1, 3. 
 
 Wadsagga tribe, the, 182; haughti- 
 ness of, 183 ; insolence of, 185 ; 
 retribution on, 189. 
 
 Waelgejo, quarrel with the, 288. 
 
 Waganda, the, report on, 308 ; Chris- 
 tian welcome from, 365 ; boats of, 
 366 ; great abilities of, 407 ; drum, 
 409 ; musical proclivities and archi- 
 tecture of, 411 ; origin of, 415. 
 
 Wagandaland, life easy in, 408. 
 
 Wagogo, a lesson to the, 523 ; war 
 with, 525 ; burning of villages, 
 527 ; cattle seized,. 528, 529 ; 
 threatening, 530. 
 
 Wairamba, peaceable conduct of the, 
 510. 
 
 Waiting, weeks of dreary, 90. ■ 
 
 Wakamasia, the, and Pemba Motu, 
 279; the friendly, 280; demand 
 tribute, 281. 
 
 Wakamba, warriors, 167 ; securing 
 them, 182 ; advice of, 194. 
 
 Wakawirondo, 298, 299. 
 
 Wakikuyu men in the camp, 210 ; 
 characters of the, 214 ; hut of, 
 215 ; trade with, 215. 
 
 Wakuafi, the, or dealers, treaty with, 
 272, 274. 
 
 Walker, Mr., visit of, 436. 
 
 '' Walpurgis Night '' watch, 492. 
 
 Wami, crossing the, 500. 
 
 Wandorobbo tribe, the, 165; embassy 
 to the, 167 ; insolence of ambas- 
 sadors, 168; negotiations a bad 
 bargain, 170; insolence, 171; 
 threatened attack by, 173 ; delays 
 and evasions, 174; talk with the, 
 263. 
 Wanga, visit to, 48. 
 
 Wangwana guides, 494. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 597 
 
 Wanjamwesi, arrival of the, 528, 
 
 529 ; caravan, 531. 
 Wanjoro, white men in, 337, 338. 
 
 Want, terrible suffering from, 122. 
 
 Wapokomo, camping-place, 82 ; part- 
 ing from the, 100, 126; charac- 
 teristics of the, 112 ; cheerful dance 
 of, 114. 
 
 Warriors, defiance of Galla, 141 ; 
 Wakamba, 167 ; first meeting with 
 Massais, 229, 253. 
 
 Wasekke, tactics of the, 499 ; pru- 
 dence of, 500. 
 
 Wasiba, the, warning to, and reply, 
 462. 
 
 Wasoga, the, report on, 308; men, 
 the, conversation with, 321 ; ap- 
 pearance, costume, and weapons of, 
 352; dwellings, 353. 
 
 Wasukuma, good qualities of the, 
 ' 486; protection to the, 488; 
 probable future importance of, 
 495. 
 
 Water, scarcity of, 36. 
 
 Water supply, important question of, 
 220 ; anxiety concerning, 248 ; 
 seeking for, 261. 
 
 Weapons, confiscation of, 28. 
 
 Wembaere, crossing the, 505 ; Steppe, 
 506. 
 
 White race, historic tradition of a, 
 427. 
 
 Widow of Mtesa, her heathen officials 
 dismissed, 404 ; ignorance of, 406. 
 
 Wild cattle, enormous herds of, 294. 
 
 Wissmann, Lieutenant von, co-opera- 
 tion with, proposed, 6 ; arrange- 
 ments with Peters, 8. 
 
 Witu, safe arrival in sultanate of, 
 45 ; on the march to, 65 ; import- 
 ance of, 66 ; statistics of the 
 sultanate, 67 ; stay at, 70 ; supplies 
 from, 93 ; no hope from, 98. 
 
 Women, Wandorobbo, 166; footsteps 
 of, 166. 
 
 Women and children, decision con- 
 cerning, 155. 
 
 Wiirz, missionary, 86. 
 
 Year, beginning a new, 262. 
 Yembamba, narrative of, 156. 
 
 Zanzibar, 2 ; Sultan of, 23, 27 ; diffi- 
 culties and troubles at, 23, 26 ; 
 caravans, curious behaviour of, 
 284 ; crossing to, 558 ; old quarters 
 in, 559. 
 
 Zoology, lion and hippopotamus, 180 ; 
 lions in the bush, 203. 
 
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