"' Jlr-'-^-'-' >■ '■*" «^ -fl^s^ New York State College of Agriculture At Cornell University Ithaca, N. Y. Library 3 1924 050 307 325 Cornell University Library The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924050307325 SALMON. FISHING IN CANADA And this OUT life, exempt from public haunt, Finds tongues m trees, hooks m the running brooks, Sermons m stones, and good m everything SALMON-FISHING IN CANADA BY A RESIDENT EDITED Br COLONEL SIR JAMES EDWARD ALEXANDER KNT. K.O.L.S. Uth REGT. AUTHOB OF ' EXPLORATIONS Irr AMERICA, AFRICA, ETC.* WITH ILLUSTRATIONS THE CaaiEEJH^Ul LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 LOWDON PRINTED BY SPOTIISTVOODE AND CO. NEW-STEEET SQUARE INSCEIBED TO LIEUT.-GENERAL SIR WILLIAM EOWAN, K.C.B. Colonel ISth Regt. LATELY COMMANDING THE FOECES AND ADaHNISTEATOK OF THE GOYEENMENT OF CANADA INTRODUCTION. It is impossible to over-value the provinces of Great Britain tying in North America beyond the Atlantic wave. They have attracted, and will con- tinue to attract, the greatest attention, as the hope and the home of the emigrant. A haven of rest, after honourable toil, will be found there by those who are debarred, by the competition in "the old country," from reahsing thek cherished dreams of independence. The eastern townsliips of Lower Canada will receive and occupy the wanderer ; Canada west has many modes of emplopng him, its resources are being so rapidly developed by steam and rail. The dark forests of New Brunswick, laced with bright rivers, were not created to be X INTRODUCTION. unsubdued by the hand of man ; and the valuable though neglected island of Cape Breton, a de- pendency of Nova Scotia, "with its great salt lake, the Bras d'Or, is rich m coal, possesses exliaustless fisheries, and a soil capable of supporting large numbers of industrious settlers. The heart of Canada may be reached for 6/., the Maritime Provinces of North America for 4/. ; an advantage which is not shared by our distant though important possessions in South Africa and Austraha. The soldier and the civihan, the merchant and the farmer, m the West may diversify and lighten their duties and then- toils witli the most exciting sport in these vast regions, — the haunts of the bear, the deer, and the fox ; and the fisherman has such a scope for his " gentle art " on the lakes and rivers fi'cquented by the great maskanonge, salmon, bass, Avhite fish, &c., that home-fishing would appear very tame ever after. The careless manner in which some of the greatest boons of the Almighty Creator are treated is evinced INTRODUCTION. XI in tlie reckless destruction of tlie valuable salmon family. Some rivers are protected in Britain and America, and the salmon are judiciously used there ; but it is too often the case that some of the finest sahnon rivers are now abandoned on account of even the gravel of the spawmng beds bemg removed to make walks, whilst poachers destroy fish, lean and un- wholesome at the breeding time ; and weirs, stretch- ing across a river near its mouth, by some old feudal right, and for the benefit of one proprietor, absorb what might be a means of existence and pleasure to hundreds hvhig liigher up the stream. Surely this great abuse camiot contmue. We have hunted, fished, and explored in the British Provhices of North America, and sojourned there for years, and now propose to give some account, mixed up with facetious matter, from the notes of a very experienced hand, of salmon fishing IN Canada ; adding, in an Appendix, cmious informa- tion of various kinds bearing on salmon fishing m oivc North American possessions generally. We may add that the highest degree of enjoyment is to be sai INTRODUCTION. found in a cruise to the salmon grounds on the Lower St. Lawrence, whilst enthusiastic iishermen from England find it well worth their while to go aU the way to the American maritime provinces to " make camp," and cast their lines over the clear waters of the rivers which empty themselves into the Bay of Chaleiu-. J. E. A. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE L INTEODUCTOET AND EGOTISTICAL 1 n. — IS TKEEE SALMON PISHINO IN CANADA? 17 III. TVHAT FLIES ABE SUITED POE CANADA? 39 rV. — HOW AEE TVE TO GET TO THE SALMON EIYEES IN CANADA? . 59 Y. WHICH AEE THE SALMON EIYEES IN CANADA? . . .79 VI. — A SUNDAY AT THE SAGIIENAY Ill Til. SALMON FISHINO IN THE SAGTIENAT 141 VIII. — SALMON KSHINa IN THE TEIDUTAHIES OF THE SAGDENAY . 159 IX. — THE ESQUEMAIN 177 X. — THE PETITE BOMAINE, SAULT DE IIOUTON, POET NEUF, AND BEESIMITS 193 XIV CONTENTS. CHAP, PAGE XI. — SHELDBAEE, QOODBOUT, MATANE, AUB METIS . . . • 209 XII. — TEDniT, PENTECOST, MAEGAfiET 227 XIII. ■WHAEE FISHING IN THE ST. LATVEENCE, AND WHALE STOEIES . 247 XIV. — SALMON FISHING IN THE MOISIE 277 APPENDIX 287 CHAPTEE I. INTEODUCTOKY AND EGOTISTICAX. " Low Tvas onr pretty cot, our tallest rose Peeped at the chamber windo'^' ; "we coiild hear, At silent noon, and ere and early mom. The sea's faint murmur. In the open air Our m}T:tles blossomed, and across the porch Thick jasmines twined. The little landscape round Was green and woody and refreshed the eye ; It w^as a spot which you might aptly call The Valley of Seclusion." CHAPTEE I. INTKODUCTOET AND EGOTISTICAL. HE reader who takes up this book with the design to peruse the following pages, may be desirous to learn in the first instance with whom he is about to travel, what description of person pretends to publish his experience in the " gentle art," and in what company he is invited to explore the rugged banks and unfrequented pools of the romantic and secluded Canadian rivers. Such a desire is only reasonable, but, no doubt, a short sketch will be deemed suflScient. The lines which are prefixed to this chapter accurately describe, as far as they go, a comfortable but small glebe house, which by the favour of the bishop of the diocese, the writer took possession of at the age of twenty-six, having been for the previous three years cm-ate of a populous and considerable town near the centre of Ireland. This house was situated in a western county, and although 4 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. well sheltered, and surrounded by an ampliitlieatre of moimtains, stood on comparatively high land about the middle of the valley. Its windows commanded an ex- tensive view of a chain of blue and limpid lakes, aboimding in pike and perch, which stretched away towards the foot of the mountains, while partly hidden by intervening trees, was another series of still more beautiful sheets of water, whose shores were well wooded, whose surfaces were inter- spersed with green islands, and whose depths were w^ell stocked wdth most magnificent trout and abundance of silvery roach. The reader will readily come to the conclusion that these lakes, and the streams flowing from them, were not over fished by a superabundant population of sporting gentry, when he is informed that the writer, being not a little proud of his promotion liy a learned prelate, and being moreover under some slight impression that he was n well waxed thread of hemp. Quickly was my gold-tinselled fiery brown, with claret hackle and mixed wings, attached to my single gut casting-line ; for very rarely have I used ' any other : rapidly did I make my first three throws in the very jaws of the gorge, and just as rapidly, on the third throw, did an animated mass of molten silver, as it ap- peared, rush along the surface of the water, engulph my fiery brown in his wide-spread jaws, and turn to descend into the depths beneath him, when he received, from some involuntary and indescribable turn of my WTist, which is called the " strike," such a twinge in the lower part of his tongue, as made him believe that he was held fast by some- thing amazingly hot, which it was his duty to extinguish and resist by every means that was afforded to him by water, tail, and fins. His nishes to and fro, his dives deep and long, his leaps many and rapidly repeated; the adroitness with which the Indian received rae into his frail and unsteady canoe at the very moment when the last foot of line was rolling off my reel ; the steadiness and ({uietude with which he brought me over my fish; the A " STRIKE AND CATCH. 89 celerity with which he followed him in all his manoeuvres ; the skill with which he enabled me, coaxingly, to draw him into the still water at the head of the pool ; and the deadlj^ certainty with which, on the first opportunity, he fixed the cruel gaff in his side ; all this I spare the reader, con- tenting myself with stating that at the end of about twenty- five minutes, the " water angel,'' as a Yankee writer calls the salmon, was tested as to weight, and found to be rather more than twelve pounds. Again I prepare my fiery brown for a throw, having found him unruffled and uninjured by the late encounter. Two, three, four, five times I flung him forth so as to descend as lightest gossamer upon the sparkling waters, at each throw drawing about a foot of line off my reel. About the sixth throw there was a lash and a flash as my fly floated from the stream into the still water, and I felt an evident strain upon rod and line ; but too soon it was clear that though a fish had risen at it, and toiiched it, he had escaped the bait. As it becomes all prudent fisher- men to do in such circumstances, I then examined my fly, and found that the hook was broken off exactly in the middle of the bend. To search my fly-box and find another similar fiery brown, did not take me half the time which it took me mentally to objurgate Martin Kelly, whose hook I believed had broken against some bony part in the fish's mouth. Again I cautiously and deftly proceeded to throw my 90 SALMOX FISHING IN" CACVADA. line downwards and across the stream, gradually elongating it, until the fly passed over the same spot in which the salmon had risen. No sooner had it reached this sp
l : just then I was enabled to get a good piuU upon him, when m}' line became lax and flaccid, leaving nie, dejected and disgusted, ■\\-ith notliing else to do but to wind it up. Again I ex- amined my fly, again I found the hook broken off at the middle of the bend, again I thought rmkiudly of IMartin Kelly, again I extracted from m}^ box another fiery brown and jiroceeded to attach it to my casting line, when I found myself gasping for breath and nearly blinded with smoke. On turning round I perceived one fire of dead leaves, and withered branches, and wet drift wood, and damp grass, giving out volumes of smoke, on my right hand, another on my left, and my amiable Indian busily employed in kindling a third immediately and closely behind me. The day was bright, the sun was intensely hot, and the rock on which we stood was exposed to all his rays ; so that what could be his object in increasino- the already ardent heat was a mystery to me, until having interrogated to him as well as I could by pantomime, he BLACK FLIES. 91 pointed to the myriads of black flies wliich were crawling upon the rock at my feet, and which he assured me by his signs would long before have fixed their fangs and left their poison in my forehead and my throat and behind my ears, were it not for the smoke proceeding from the fires which he had lighted. Soon after, however, I began to feel a certain degree of uneasiness about the calves of my legs, and a cijnsider- able inclination to scratch them to any extent. The fact is, that I wore strong Wellington boots, in the usual manner, under my pantaloons ; that the black flies, com- pelled to keep their humiliating position on the ground, sought to wreak their revenge and to satiate then- brutal taste for blood by creeping up my trowsers and biting me accurately round the top of the boot, so that by the time I reached our boat that evening I presented the appearance of having been beautifully fired in both legs for bone- spavin. This taught me a lesson which I have not for- gotten, and by which I recommend all the readers of this little book to profit, namely, when in fishing the Canadian waters I wear boots — and no man ought to wear anj'thing else — to draw them over my pantaloons. Again I sent forth my fiery brown to kiss the bright surface of the Chute-en-haut, again I gradually lengihened my line, again I felt the sullen pull of a hea\'y fish as he grasped my feathered bait, and again it returned to me mutilated and broken. Again I substituted another, with 92 SALMON FISIIIXG IX CANADA. which I had not long continued to tempt the denizens of the Chute, when in making a throw a few inches longer than the previous ones, it became fastened in a small patch of moss which grew in a fissure about half way up the high wall of hard rock, which stood at my back, and against which, blinded by the smoke and rendered thought- less by my eagerness, I had smashed no less than eight beautiful hooks in less than an hour, and so managed to lose five or six splendid fish which had risen at and taken the baitless and mutilated fly into their jaws. Never since have I visited the Chute-en-haut, and rather think I never shall, for since the time I write of, mills have been erected on its placid waters, dams which effectually and unnecessarily render it impossible for the salmon to ascend the river, have been built ; and instead of the solitary half-Indian half-voyageur and his wild but mild and obliging son, there is now to be found at the Echemin a population of nearly two hundred lumberers, wheel- wrights, carpenters, and their families, with all the abomi- nations of grog shops and grocery establishments. But this is a great digression from the object of this chapter, which is to point out to the gentle inquirer which of the rivers in Canada are salmon rivers. The only manner in which I can attempt to solve this question is by giving a list of all the rivers which from the best accounts I have been enaljled to collect are salmon rivers, with any observations which each may call for ; to BEST KNOWN KIVERS. 93 speak more particularly of those of which I have received authentic intelligence from trustworthy friends, or which have been written of by credible authors ; and to treat more particularly still of those which I have myself visited, and which I have myself fished. With regard to the Jacques Cartier, the St. Charles, the St. Joachim, the Petite Riviere, and the Riviere du Grouffre, I shall not make any further observation than that I do not believe that any one of them is worthy the attention of a person who comes from a distance for the purpose of fishing ; either from the circumstance of their being already over fished, as they can be reached from Quebec by land, or from their having been seriously injured by the in- judicious manner in which milldams have been erected across them. The next in order, as we descend the river St. Law- rence from the westward, is the Jumeaux at Malbaie, a river which I have never had the good fortune to visit, but which has been so well described by that accomplished gentleman and skilful sportsman Dr. Henry, that I make no apology for extracting the follomng from his "Port- folio." "Ninety miles below Quebec, and nearly opposite Kamouraska on the south shore, the Malbaie river enters the St. Lawrence. After an impetuous mountain course of two hundred miles, it escapes through a gorge, tumbles down a granite rock, and then winds very prettily along a 94 SALMON FISHIXG IX CANADA. cultivated tract, six or seven miles, until it meets the tide. Tliere is a tolerable wooden bridge at its mouth, whose large abutments loaded with great boulders, tell of the formidable floods that sometimes sweep down the valle}-. A respectable church, with its long roof and glittering spire, and a tall elm or two, stands on an elevated point near the junction of the river with the St. Lawrence. " A very quiet and moral population of seven or eight hundred people inhabit this secluded valley. We are informed that after the conciuest a number of soldiers of Murray's regiment settled here, intermarrying with the Canadians, and leaving traces of their larger stature and peculiar lineaments which are still visible. Some of the customs of the good liabitans, too — social flimily worship night and morning, for instance — may be of Scotch origin : for, however dissipated the life of a Scotch soldier may have been, he is apt towards the close to show the salutary effect of former religious instruction. The good seed, whose early germination had been checked by the storms of his profession, seldom loses all vitality, but often brings forth fruit when the turbulence of a military life is past. Be this as it may, the cross appears to have improved the l)reed considerably : the language of the military settlers, however, which may have been half Gaelic half English — has yielded to that of the more numerous class, and the whole community now speak French. " Many of the Malbaie families are very large, and from THE ErnSR MALBAIE. 95 fifteen to twenty children are not uncommon. They marry early — get a stripe of a concession from the seigneur, and a house is run up for the young couple, inore Hibernico, by their relations. They are then set adrift, but never separate far from their o^vn connexions. There is infinite social comfort in this custom ; but the worst of it is that the bit of land is soon exhausted. " Their neighboms in the Bay of St. Paul, on the other side of a long mountain, have a very indifferent character ; but the peasantry of this remote and pretty glen are the most virtuous people I have ever seen in any country. As to temperance with regard to spirituous liquors, our good philanthrojDists who are endeavouring to reform the world in this way — would find their labours needless here. Among these primitive people, drunkenness is absolutely unknown : and whole families pass their lives without any individual ever having tasted intoxicating fiuids. Some surprising instances of this kind have come to the writer's knowledge. " Having been on four fishing expeditions to Malbaie, I hope that a short account of one of these may not be tiresome to the reader. "In the latter end of June, 1830, my friend. Major Wingfield, of the 66th, and myself, set out from Montreal on a fishing trip to Malbaie. We embarked in buoyant spirits, well provided with choice apparatus, and taking with us materiel for preserving our fish — namely; salt. 96 SALMON FISHING IN C.INADA. sugar, spices, and a large cask of vinegar. A good-natured American general, with liis aide-de-camp, were our fellow passengers in the steamboat to Quebec. They were heretics of the utilitarian school, and thought it not a little extraordinary that we should make so long a journey to catch fish that might so easily be obtained in the market. " On reaching Quebec, we found, to our great mortifica- tion, the wind blowing up the river, strong against us, and no steamboat running whither we were bound. We were therefore obliged to wait there three days, and then take our passage in a miserable schooner from Kamouraska; the captain engaging to land us at our destination on the opposite shore. The voyage was extremely tedious and disagreeable, lasting four interminable days and nights, though the distance was only ninety miles. jMoreover, our lubberly skipper very nearly upset us half a dozen times, by bad management during the gale from the eastward that lasted almost the whole voyage. To add to our misfortunes we were half starved as well as half foundered ; for our sea stock was laid in under the anti- cipation of a few hom-s' voyage, and consisted only of a loaf, a quarter of cold lamb, and a bottle of wine. Thirty or forty dirty habUans from Kamouraska were on board, and occupied the limited space below ; we were therefore obliged to wrap ourselves in our cloaks and bivouac under the ' grande voile^ on deck. This was all very well as PLEASUEE AFTER PAIN. 97 long as the weather continued dry, but on the third day the rain came down in torrents — often extinguishing our cigars ; but we took fresh ones, still maintained our ground on deck, and puffed away bravely in hopes of better times. Towards the end of our wretched voyage, sheer hunger made us purchase some bad salt pork, and sausages crammed mth garlic, as our own barrels of provisions were hooped up, and if we broke bulk there might be a sorry account of them. " At length, with beards like Jews — cold, wet, half starved, and every way miserable, we reached the mouth of the Malbaie river, where we had bespoke lodgings, at the house of a Canadian named Chaperon. " By a beneficent ordination, oru- sense of present enjoyment is keen in proportion to the recollection of recent discomfort or distress ; but I shall say nothing of the converse of this, having little to do with that branch of the subject at present. Dryden has condensed the idea in five words — ' Sweet is pleasure after pain.' Indeed the sensations of my friend and myself, when at length we found ourselves clean and comfortable in M. Chaperon's pleasant parlour, were much to be envied. Sweet, very sweet, was our shave, and our bath, and the feel of cool linen, and the sense of total renovation per- vading our whole persons — but, shade of Apicius ! how H 98 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. exquisite the Grimpowder and Pekoe tasted after rancid pork and garlic ! " On our way from the shore we cast our hungry eyes on a salmon, just come in with the tide and floundering in a net : we incontinently licked our lips and purchased him. When we reached the house our servant handed the fish over to jMadame Chaperon, with instructions to broil it for our breakfast — not alive, but as near as might be. Our toilet being finished we drew the table to the window, into which a rosebush in full bloom was peering from a flower-garden underneath. There, amidst the mixt aro- mata of flowers and fish, we commenced an attack on a pyramid of toast fit to form a new apex to that of Cheops — numerous dainty prints of fresh butter, some half gallon of thick cream, and half a bushel of new laid eggs — which was kept up vigorously for a couple of hours. " On Monday morning, July the 5tli,we engaged a caleche witli a good-looking Canadian boy named Louis Panet, to attend us on our daily visits to the Glade, about six miles distant. The road up the valley is very good, follomng the winding course of the river, and overhung on the other side by green globular hills, very steep in many places. These are covered with a thin soil, which often after rain peels off in large patches, carrying down trees, fences, flocks, and even the houses, ' in hideous ruin and com- bustion ' to the bottom. One of these frightful eboulements HOOK MY FISH. 99 had fallen across our road lately, and the country peojile were still busy in clearing away the rubbish. " From my former experience, the first glance at the river assured me we should have good sport. Instantly our fishing-rods were got ready, and taking Jean Gros with us — a liahbant who had accompanied me on former occa- sions, we descended the steep bank, got into his crazy canoe, and were ferried across to the best part of the stream. " There was a large granite boulder in the river, in the wake of which I had formerly hooked many a fine fish. At the very first throw here I rose a large salmon ; but although he apfieared greedy enough, he missed the fly. On these occasions, particularly so in the early season, the best and most experienced anglers will feel a slight palpitation arising from a struggle of opposite emotions, hope of success, doubt of failure, and uncertainty and curiosity as to the size of the fish. Giving my finny friend time to resume the position at the bottom he had quitted, and to compose himself, I then threw the fly lightly over him, communicating to it that slight motion which imitates life. He instantly darted at the glittering deception, and I found him fast on my line. After a few moments' won- dei-ment, he dashed madly across the river, spinning out the line merrily and making the reel 'discourse eloquent music' This fish did not stop in his career imtil nearly touching the opposite bank, when he turned, made another run for the middle, and then commenced a course of H 2 100 SALMON FISHING IK CANADA. leaping a yard or two out of the water. This is a dan- gerous time, and here unskilful anglers most frequently lose their fish : for each leap requires a corresponding movement of the arms and body to preserve the proper tension of the line. In fact, on these occasions a good angler will make a low courtesy to his fish. I played this active gentleman fully three quarters of an hour, when he gave up the contest, and I gaffed and secured my prize, — a beautiful male fish in fine season, weighing twenty-five pounds. " We continued at our sport till mid-day, when it became too hot and clear. By this time my companion had caught a number of large salmon trout, and I picked, ujD two more salmon and several trout of the same descrip- tion, marked with the most brilliant colours. We then crossed to the shady side and reposed ourselves ; and having discovered a copious spring bubbling through the gravel, close to the water's edge, we enlarged it into a well, into which we plumped our fish and a bottle of Hodson's Pale Ale, covering it with green boughs. We then emplo3^ed ourselves in collecting strawberries for a dessert to our sandwich ; and after lunch enjoyed our cigars, and chatted over our morning exploits. ' Fronde sub arbore:>, ferventia temperans astra.' " When the shade of the high bank stretched across the river, we resumed our sport, and returned to a late dinner THE PLAGUE OF FLIES. 101 with our caleche literally full of fish. A goodly show they made, as they covered two of Madame Chaperon's largest tables: the sum total being five salmon, weighing 105 pounds, and 48 trout, averaging three pounds a piece. " Next morning, after an early breakfast, we started for the Chute, taking a tent with us, which we pitched on a knoll overlooking our fishing ground. It proved, how- ever, more ornamental than viseful; the banks being so umbrageous that we did not require it by day, and we always returned to our lodgings in the evening. " Nothing mimdane is without its alloy. Our enjoyments were great, with one serious drawback — the flies, those volant leeches that surrounded us — and not-sdthstanding om- defence of camphorated oil smeared over our hands, faces, and necks — sucked cm- blood without compunction.* A fly is considered a stupid creature not\vithstanding his powers of observation, but our Malbaie musquitoes were insects of great sagacity, for they appeared to watch their opportunity to take us at a disadvantage, and when they saw us occupied in playing a fish, they made play too, and had fifty spears in our skins in half a minute. The little invisible sand flies, too, teased us extremely, and those insidious black ^vretches, who give no warning, like the honest musquito — these crawled about our necks and up our sleeves, tracking their way with blood. * See Supplementary Chapter. H 3 10-2 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. " Another plague that annoyed lis not a little, was the dogs on the road from home to the scene of oiir sport ; which were certainly the most ill-mannered brutes I ever had the misfortune to be acquainted with. Twice a day had we to run the gauntlet, and sustain a continued attack ; each cur when he had barked himself hoarse, handing us over to his neighbour. Horses in Canada are so accustomed to this that tliey pay little attention to yelping, unless some brute, more savage than the rest, attempts to seize them by the nose, when the)^ sometimes get frightened, and may run away. Once or twice we observed our sagacious little horse looking a little bothered at the assaults of one fierce brute, who must have had a cross of the bull-dog in him. This was a black and shaggy cur of great size, wliose wont was to dart at once at the poor horse's mouth. We had often flogged him severely, but he did not mind it in the least, being protected by his thick woolly hair. One day I put a long handle in my salmon gaff for his express use, and when the savage darted at us, I watched my opportu- nity and hooked him by the side. Louis whipped his horse, who bj^his movements appeared to enjoj^the punish- ment of his enemy. Away we went at a rapid rate, the dog yelling hirleously, and the hab items running out of their houses at the noise, and holding up their hands in astonishment. After a little we stopped and I shook him off, apparently not much the worse for the discipline he had received. Next morning in going to our sport we saw GOING WITH THE STREAM. 103 him at the door of his own house : and certainly no punishment could ever have a better effect. As soon as the brute recognised us, he pixt his long tail between his legs, limped into the house as mute as a fish, and never annoyed us again. " During om- second day's fishing I had a little adventure which was not iTuattended with danger, though such was the excitement of the moment, that I was scarcely conscious of it. Having observed a large salmon rising at a fly in the middle of the river, I got into the canoe and made old Jean Gros pole me out to the spot ; kneeling as we were often obliged to do, for fear of upsetting the unmanageable little craft. I soon hooked the fish, and making my Charon stick his pole firmly into the bottom, we brought our tiny vessel athwart it, kept our position against the force of the current, which here ran very strong ; and having a fine range of the open stream, I played the fish for half an hour until he was quite subdued. M. Jean was then desired to weigh anchor, and push for a shelving sandy bank where we had been accustomed to gaff our salmon. In pulling up the pole, which was shod with iron, the old man, by some inexplicable awkwardness, lost his hold of it ; away the rapid stream bore us, whilst the long pole was left standing perpendicularly, vibrating still and shaking its head at us very ominously. " Jean Gros' shoulders elevated themselves to his ears in- stantly, and his wizened and corrugated face was elongated H 4 104 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. some three or foiu- inches to the obliteration of manifold wrinkles that adorned it. It was irresistibly comic, and I could not help a loud laugh, though it was no joke. We had no paddle nor anything else to assist us on board, and were running at six knots an hour towards the jaws of a dangerous rapid. My old voyageur, after his first astonish- ment, uttered one or two indecent oaths, like a veritable French colonist ; then, apparently resigning himself to his fate, became paralysed w th fear and began to mumble a prayer to some favourite Saint. In the meantime some good-natured habitans, who had been watching us playing the salmon, ran down the shore, parallel with us, when they saw us drifting down ; flinging out to us every stick they met for the chance of our catching and using it as a paddle. All this time the salmon remained on the Hne, and my large rod occupied one hand entirely, and prevented much exertion in stretching for the floating timber ; but as for abandoning rod or fish — neither was to be thought of for a moment. Once I overstretched myself and canoe and all were wthin an ace of being upset. At last success attended us — I secured a piece of board, and the first employment of it was the conferring a good sound thwack on Jean Grros' shoulders, accompanied with ' Ramec! sacre, ramez!^ The effect was electrical — the old fellow seized the board and began to paddle vigorously, steering, as we approached an island, down the smaller branch, where the rapid could be passed with safety. By great good luck our co-voyageur LA RIVIERE NOIRE. 105 in the water took the same channel, and down the stream we all went merrily for half a mile. The rapid ended in a deep and quiet hole where the fish was soon gaffed ; and after a little rest, and a coup of brandy to the old man, notwithstanding his delinquencies, he placed the canoe on his shoulders, I carried the fish, and we retm-ned by the bank. " The practicability of passing the smaller rapid being thus established, Wingfield, two or three days after, having hooked a large salmon, and not being able to prevent it from going down, guided it in the canoe through the same branch of the river; but, unfortunately, the line caught in a rock near the bottom and the fish broke off. " We spent a delightful fortnight at Malbaie, killing many fine salmon, and a great number of magnificent trout ; whilst we employed our servant, when we were fishing, in pickling, smoking, or salting them. But the season became dry, the river fell, and the fish ceased to rise in any con- siderable numbers. Towards the end of July we struck our tent, embarked in a large boat, and proceeded twenty miles down the north shore of the St. Lawrence, \vith the intention of exploring a small salmon stream, called ' La Eiviere Noire,' which it was said had never been fished. " The north shore of the great Canadian estuary is an interesting field for the geologist ; and it has not yet been half explored. Indeed, a comprehensive and scientific 106 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. research through both these great provinces is yet to be made, and would, I am persuaded, develop great natural riches, as well as many objects of curious inqiury. " At the falls of Montmorenci, a little below Quebec, that river has cut through the junction of sienite with the superincumbent limestone, and illustrated not a few of the recondite secrets of the early history of rocks. At Beauport, in the same neighbourhood, enormous quantities of marine shells in a state of remarkable preservation — the colours even yet perfect — are found embedded in blue claj'. Further down the north shore, the country liecomes more purely granitic and mountainous to the very edge of the St. Lawrence ; the bold capes and headlands increasing in boldness and altitude, until they are interrupted by the singular and enormous fissure through which the Saguenay runs. The waters of this great tributary, beneath a perpendicular bank, from 600 to 900 feet high, and only a yard from the sliore, are one thousand feet deep, and in some places no bottom has yet been found. " It was a fine afternoon when we left Malbaie ; the river was calm, and the white i^orpoises, those unwieldy looking creatnres, were tumbling in all directions. We had guns, and tried a few shots without effect, the balls ricocJiettinfj off then- smooth and oily skins, whenever they struck them. As it approached sunset our Canadian boat- men began a quartette, by no means inharmonioiTS, though the voices were rough enough, and kept it up with great BIVOUAC FOR THE NIGHT. 107 spirit nearly all the rest of the voyage. At midnight we arrived at the mouth of the river, where we found a fine dry sandy beach, -ndth a line of creamy surf rippling gently against it, in a wild and uninhabited country. We landed, found plenty of wood to kindle a large fire ; ate our supper, which we shared with our voyageurs; for which they gave us another song under the exhilarating influence of a coup or two of brandy. We then wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, looked out for a soft stone for a pillow, placed our guns by oru- sides, put our feet to the fire, and soon fell asleep. " The morning sun awoke us : we started up and took a refreshing swim in the salt water, whilst our attendants were getting breakfast ready. When the meal was over we prepared our rods and set out to reconnoitre the stream, the banks of which were covered with almost impenetrable jungle; but after great exertions, we explored to the distance of four or five miles, yet only got one small salmon, which my friend caught, for our pains. The river, as far as we could reach, was a continuous succes- sion of rapids and falls from one enormous granite rock to another. " On our return we disturbed a huge bear, who was busily employed in tearing up a large rotten pine to get at a colony of ants that inhabited it. We stopped and so did he ; feeling, no doubt, as displeased as any christian, at being interrupted, in his meal. He then walked away, and 108 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. as we had left our guns at the boat, we felt no inclination to follow him. " Next day we returned to Chaperon's, and the following morning visited the Chute, and found that a fresh batch of fine trout had made their way up the river, low as it was, which afforded us capital sport ; rising greedily at our salmon-flies, and very lively and strong on the line — but we could see no salmon until late in the evening, when we noticed a very large one sucking in some small flies in the middle of the stream. We embarked in the canoe, and both covered him, endeavouring to tempt his palate by various flies resembling those on the water ; using at the same time a single gut casting line, but all in vain. At last, just before starting for home, I tried one more cast over him, when he rose like a young whale, and I found him firm on the hook. The tackle was slender, no doubt, but the delicate fibre that held him prisoner was of the best description, and though of nearly invisible tenuity, possessed gnreat strength, which the flexibilit]' of a long and admirable rod materially assisted. Great was the ' certaminis gaudium ' during the exciting play of that noble fish, and many, many apprehensions had we of the result. But the staunch O'Shaughnessy kept its hold, and the tenacious gut failed not. Finally, after a glorious struggle of an hour and a quarter, this magnificent fish lay gasping on the sand. It PRESENT STATE OF THE MALBAIE. 109 weighed twenty-eight French pounds, or about tliirty-one English. " On the 3rd of August we returned to Quebec, with two barrels of fish, for distribution among our friends ; and I guess, if our utilitarian Yankee acquaintances had met us then, we should have been less the objects of their derision." Such is Dr. Henry's narrative of his tour to Malbaie. I regret, however, to state that the accounts of more recent visitors to that stream would not justify me in leading the fisherman to expect that he would now find similar sport there. But am happy to learn that the present proprietor of the seignory has gone to considerable expense in levelling the dams which have hitherto obstructed the passage of the fish, and that there is every prospect, under his care and protection, that this charming stream will again become the birthplace of many a large salmon. CHAPTER VI. A SUNDAY AT THE SAGUENAY. 'As inward lore breeds outward talk, The hound some praise, and some the hawk ; Some, Letter pleased with private sport, Use tennis, some a mistress court ; But these delights I neither wish Kor env}', while I freely fish. ' Who hunts doth oft in danger ride ; "Whi^ hawks lives oft both far and wide ; "Who uses games shall often prove A loser ; but who falls in love Is fettered in fond Cupid's snare : My angle breeds me no such care. ' Of recreations there is none So free as fishing is alone ; All other pastimes do no less Than mind and body both possess, My hand alone my work can do, So I can fish and stud}'' too. ■ I care not, I, to fish in seas, Fresh rivers liest my mind do please, Whose sweet calm com'se I contemplate, Aud seek in life to imitate : In civil bounds I fain woidd keep. And for my past offences weep. ■ The first men that our Saviour dear Did choose to wait upon him here Bless'd fishers were, and fish the last Food was that He on earth did taste: I therefore strive to follow those Whom He to f>Uow Him hath chose." — Isaac Walton. 'Wanderers on the dark blue sea! As yoiu" bark rides gallantly, Prayer and praise Viecomc ye well, Tliough ye hear no temple bell ; The Sal:ibath hours which G-od has given, Give ye to worship, rest, and heaven." 113 CHAP, VI. A SUNDAY AT THE SAGUENAY. EADEB, have you ever formed any idea as to the manner in which fisher- men in Canada pass their Sundays ? I ask the question, be- cause I know that un- founded impressions on this subject have been made upon the minds of many amitible and well- disposed persons, by the " evil speaking, lying, and slander- ing " of a few evil-disposed and malicious individuals. I ask the question without reference to the merchants' clerks, the artisans, and the handicraftsmen of the cities, too many of whom, 1 fear, " Air their Ijuttous, after six days' rust," by the side of some swift running brook, or on the bosom of some smiling loch, armed with a white ash wattle, called I 114 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. a fislaing-rod, and depending rather upon the slice of fat pork which covers the hooks of their flies, for deluding the trout, than upon their skill in angling or their taste in imitating the winged Ephemera. I ask the question -with regard to those who may be really denominated "fishermen." Men who weigh anchor in their yachts or chartered schooners for a month's or six weeks' residence amongst the rivers, where " They hear no temple hell ; " where there are neither churches nor clergymen, but who, nevertheless, are not forgetful of Him who " made the heavens and the earth, and all that in them is," and who " holds the waters in the hollow of His hand." I ask the question that I may answer it ; and few, I believe, are more capable of affording an answer, for few have more frequently visited the scenes of which I ^\^:ite, and still fewer have been associated in their excursions with a greater variety of characters. And I have no hesitation in stating that I have very rarely witnessed the manifestation of any disposition to desecrate the Lord's day by making it a day of amusement ; and that whenever such disposition has shown itself, it has been at once dis- countenanced and overruled by the majority of the party. On the contrary, I have almost invariably found every in- dividual comprised in the expedition, including sailors, servants, and Indians, not only inclined to make the TADOUSAC. 115 Sunday a day of rest, but to assemble and meet together, to " set forth His most worthy praise, to hear His most holy Word, and to ask those things that be requisite and necessary, not only for the body but the soul," from Him who " giveth us life and breath and all things." In the month of July 1846, a little cutter yacht, having on board the Commissioner, the Baron, the Captain, myself, and a crew of three men, a boy and two servants, staggered across the river St. Lawrence, from the Eiviere du Loup to Tadousac at the mouth of the mighty Saguenay, the largest and most remarkable of the many streams which add to its volume. The meaning of the word Tadousac is said to be " the mouth of the sack ; " from what language derived, or from what circumstances bestowed upon this spot, I have not been able to discover. It is a very beautiful bay on the east side of the Saguenay, from which it is separated by a bold headland ; in shape it is a deep crescent, has a lofty shore of rock and a beach of beautiful sand. The salmon in their annual emigi-ation from the north to their spawning beds in the tributaries of the St. La^vrence, turn into this bay in great numbers, and used to be taken in hundreds by seine nets, for the drawing of which its smooth beach affords every facility. From hence, when the wind answered, they were despatched in schooners to the Quebec market, from which cncumstance arises the question which is invariably put to the fisherman who visits the 1 2 116 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. Lower St. Lawrence. "Well, what sport have you had at the Saguenay ? " The evening was balmy and beautiful when we cast our anchor into the deep clear water and found it firmly fixed in the shining sand beneath. A gauze-like atmosphere surrounded the houses of the Hudson's Bay Company's offices, the flagstaff and the cannon which stand in front of them, and the Indian encampment^ and ruins of a Eoman Catholic church close by, which latter is said to have been built by Jesuits, some two hundred years ago, and to have been the first building composed of stone and mortar wldch reared its head upon the continent of North America. Having presented oiu' credentials from the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company's territory to their chief officer at Tadousac, we walked across the tongue of land which separates this lovely bay from the startling and picturesque featm-es of the Saguenay, which cannot be beheld without awakening in the heart sensations of wonder, fear, and reverence. The immense mountains which overhang this fathomless river, whose solemn gloom has only lately Ijeen cheered by the industry or presence of man, are of stupendous and matchless grandeur. The peaks of some of them rise above it, not only upright as a wall, but hanging over to the height of two thousand feet, while their bases sink beneath tlie dark waters — the deepest river in the world — into all but imfathomable depths. Language cannot describe the emotions of wonder and fear JVmSQUITOES. 117 which affect the beholder as he looks up and beholds this awful display of the Creator's power. In a nook among these mighty mountains near Tadousac, stands a small nest of houses, together with some mills and storehouses, belonging to ]Mr. Price, the extensive, enter- prising, and respected merchant of Quebec, under whose fostering care more than one prosperous and flourishing village has started up in this hitherto almost unknown and un"\T.sited part of Canada. Here we were frankly and hospitably received by Mr. William Price, who having kindly received our notice that we proposed having divine service on board our yacht on the following day, and undertaken to give notice of it to the persons under his authority, placed some boats at the disposal of our party, and accompanied us on our evening excursion a mile or two up the Sagaienay for the purpose of trying our hands at sea-trout fishing, which Sfjort we enjoyed in very gi-eat perfection for two or three hours — with one drawback only, that we were persecuted beyond description by mus- quitoes and black flies. Some idea may be entertained of the revolution caused in " the human face divine " by the assaults of these venomous insects from the narration of an event which occurred on the evening I write of. There were four of our party in one boat, which were too many to permit us all tij fish in comfort ; one therefore volunteered to go on shore and take his chance in a deep bay where the trout were rising merrily. We placed hiin I 3 118 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. on some rocks at the southern extremity of this gloomy inlet ; and then the Commissioner and myself, accompanied by Mr. W. Price, proceeded higher up the great river, killing many trout of various sizes and weights, until the shades of evening added to the gloom of the overhanging cliffs warned us that it was time to turn homewards in search of shelter and of rest. As we moved along round each headland we cast our eyes into the darkling inden- tations of the rocks, in search of our friend whom we had left behind us. At length we came rather suddenly within a few yards of a very dark-^dsaged gentleman who at the moment was plaj'ing a fish ; whereupon the Com- missioner addressed him, congratulating him on his appa- rently good sport, and inquiring whether he liad seen another fisherman during the evening. He was answered by a guffaw from our friend, and not onlj? by a guffaw, but hj a pretty smart jobation for our having left him so long to be eaten alive by flies. The voice was the voice of our friend, but the face was the face of a negro in convulsions. To accoimt for which it may be well to state that the assault of the black fly is generally sudden and unexpected . that the first indication you have of his presence, is the running of a stream of blood over some jiart of j^our face, which soon hardens there, and that these assaults being renewed ad infinitum, under favourable circumstances, soon renders it difficult even for his nearest and dearest female relative to recognise him. The effect during; the THE BLACK FLY. 119 night following a mastication of this sort is dreadful. Every bite swells to about the size of a filbert — every bite itches like a burn, and agonizes like a scald — and if you scratch them it only adds to your anguish — the whole head swells, particularly the glandular and cellular parts, behind and imder the ears, the upper and lower eyelids, so as in many cases to produce utter inability to see. The poison is imbibed and circulated through the whole frame, producing fever, thirst, heat, restlessness and despondency. Patience, cooling medicines, and strict temperance are the only remedies : the best preventives are temperance and fly oil ; the latter should be composed of equal portions of castor and fine almond or olive oil, strongly scented with essence of jjennyroyal and spirits of camphor. This mixture, carried in a soda-water bottle, and frequently apphed to the exposed parts of the head and face, will be found in general a preventive. (xauntlets which draw over the sleeves of the coat, made of jean or some other light and strong material, will be found particularly useful in defending the hands and wrists from the cruel attacks of the terrible winged insects, who are certainly the greatest drawback to the enjoyment of the sportsman in Canada. That good and kind man the Bishop of Quebec, diuing a journey to the Red Eiver in 1844, wrote the following lines, amongst others, in his sweet " Songs of the Wilder- 120 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. MOSQUITOES. ' Among the plagues on earth which God has sent Of lighter torment, is the plague of flies : Not as of Egypt once the punishment,* Yet snch, sometimes, as feehle patience tries. "Wliere wild America in vastness lies. Three diverse hordes the swamps and woods infest. Banded or singly these make man their prize ; Quick by their subtle dart is blood expressed Or tumour raised. By tiny foe distressed.t Travellers in forest rude, "udth veil are fain To arm the face ; men there whose dwellings rest Crouch in thick smoke ; like help their cattle gain. ]; wise in trials great, in troubles small. Jjiit to return to our Sunday at tlie Saguenay. The morning dawned bright, serene, and clear ; everything on lioard the cutter had been made as clean as holystone and swab.s, and mops could make them the evening before. About half past ten o'clock Mr. Price, accompanied by six * " We do not read, howerer, tliat in this plague, which, like others, had its pointed meaning, indepiendently of its simple eifect as a judgment, the sting of the insects formed an addition to it." t " The three kinds of stinging insects which we encountered, are called l>y the French Canadians maiimgoiuns, moustiques, and brulots ; the first, and not the moustiques, being our mosquitoes. The two latter are extremely small black ilies, one of them almost imperceptible, which draw the Mood." } "I have been assured that the cattle, in situations where this protec- tion is provided for them, come lowing to the house to have the fire renewed, if it happens to fail. It is necessary, sometimes, that they should stand in a thick smoke to be milked." § " My moral is, I hope, less equivocal than that which concludes Gay's fable of the Man and the Flea ; the insect l.ieing made there to declare, in repression of human arrogance and self-elatiou, ' that men were made for fleas to eat.' " THE SEEMON. 121 or seven respectable-looking mechanics, was seen winding his way along the shore toward us ; following close upon them, were several gentlemen from the Hudson's Bay- Company's post and a few Indians. They were all soon on board, and having been received by the Commissioner, were accommodated with seats in the main cabin at each side of the dinner table, where also sat our crew and servants ; the whole representing a very fair number of the various religious denominations into which the inhabitants of the province are divided, together with a goodly number of the Church of England. At the head of the table, clad in a sober suit of black, with a decent white choker, stood the gaunt and melan- choly looking parson — melancholy looking I say, for the man was not of a melancholy but of a sanguine and cheerful disposition. Having read, in a plain and unaffected voice, the morning service of the Church of England, with the psalms and lessons for the day, he opened a volume which lay beside him and spoke as follows. "In the 21st chapter of the gospel according to St. John at the 3rd verse, it is thus written, ' I go a fishing.' " Whose words were these, my Brethren ? By whom were they spoken ? Were they uttered by some ignorant heathen, some negligent disciple or some false Apostle ? No ; they are the words of the ardent, the energetic, the 122 SALMON" FISHING IN CANADA. heroic Saint Peter — of that Peter whose declaration of the di^anity of the Eedeemer, whUst others hung in doubt, drew from the Saviour's lips the memorable words, ' Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I mil build my church ' — of that Peter who was one of the first and principal supports of a fabric whose greatness reaches from earth to heaven, and whose glory shall fill immensity — of that Peter who was ordained by Christ Himself to be a minister of the New Testament — who was selected by the great Head of the church to celebrate His sacraments, to dispense His ordinances, and to establish His kingdom — to whom was entrusted the care of interests, and the dispensation of blessings in comparison mth which the pride and wisdom, the honoiu- and splendour, of this transitory world shrink into a nameless, an inappreciable vanity — of that Peter, who, mth his brother Andrew, was first called to be the ordained minister of the King of kings, the chosen pro- genitor of the Christian priesthood — of that Peter b}' whom the first declaration of salvation was made to the j^eople, by whose advice the first churches were planted, b}' whose counsel they were governed, by whom the prejudices of Judaism were first fairly surmounted, and the Grospel preached to the Gentiles — that Peter who, imdismayed by imprisonment, declared to the Sanhedrim his determination to persist in the preaching of the cross — that Peter, from whose fettered limbs the Angel of God struck his chains, and led him forth from the precincts of the prison house THE SERMON. 123 to life and liberty and fui-ther labour in bis divine Master's cause — tbat Peter wbo wben condemned to crucifixion by tbe cruel Nero, did not deem bimself wortby to die a deatb of agony in the same manner as our divine Redeemer, and was at bis own request fastened to tbe cross witb bis bead dowTiwards — tbus, in meekness and bumiliation following tbe footsteps of bis Saviour, on eartb, obtaining a martyr's crown, in beaven securing a saint's diadem of everlasting glory. " At tbe time be gave utterance to tbe words of our text, seven of our Lord's disciples bad assembled togetber on tbe sbore of tbe sea of Tiberias ; as soon as Peter announced bis intention to tbem to ' go a fisbing,' tbey all agreed to accompany bim, and spent tbe nigbt in fruit- less toil, for tbey caugbt notbing. " Wben tbe morning came, as tbey approacbed tbe land, tbere stood upon tbe sbore One wbom tbey did not recog- nise, and wbo inquired of tbem wbetber tbey bad any meat ? On tbeir answering in tbe negative, be directed tbem to cast tbe net at tbe rigbt side of tbe sbip, and assured tbem tbey sbould find. " Tbey cast tbe net mthout besitation, and immediately enclosed so great a multitude of fisbes tbat tbey were unable to draw it. " Tbis miracle was so similar in its nature and circum- stances to tbat wbicb bad preceded tbe calling of Peter 124 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. that tlie dullest must have entertained a suspicion, if not a conviction, of the presence of the Saviour. " But it was the disciple whom Jesus loved — for affection is quicksighted — who first satisfied himself as to its being the Lord ; and on his telling this to Peter, that impetuous and ardent discijjle threw himself into the sea, that he might hasten to the Master whom he had lately so fiercely denied, but to whom he now longed to give proof of a devotedness increased by the remembrance of his fall, and the graciousness of his forgiveness. The other disciples, acting with less vehemence, Ijut equally desiring to be with their Lord, proceeded towards the land in their ship, dragging vfith them the net and its ponderous enclosure, and there they foimd a ' fire of coals, and fish laid thereon and Ijread.' " How came this fire of coals on this lonel}^ shore ? Who kindled it ? Who laid out the provision, the fish and the Ijread ? If, as we can scarcely doubt, there was something symbolical or significative in what thus met the disciples' view, what are the truths, what the lessons, that were thus figuratively conveyed ? '■' The inspired historian gives nothing but the facts ; but the facts would not have been written, excejjt for our admonition and instruction. Let us therefore avail our- selves of the aid of an acute and eloc^uent divine * of the present day, wliile we study them in simple dependence on » Melville. THE SERMON. 125 the teaching of the Holy Spirit, through whom alone can the dark things of Scripture he made clear, and the intricate plain. " The fire could hardly have been kindled by the disciples themselves during the night ; they had been absent many hom-s, and what they had lighted would have been extin- guished : they would hardly have left fish behind them on the shore ; for they had caught nothing, or if they had, the fish which now stood ready for their meal could not have been that which their own hands had placed on the coals. " Besides, there is something peculiar in the manner in which St. John mentions the fire and the provision. He is particular in noting that it was ' as soon as they were come to land ' that the disciples saw this fire of coals. It was the first object which met their eyes on landing. There would have been nothing to mention had this fire been only what they had themselves kindled overnight. And we may believe that the Evangelist is so careful in pointing out that the fire was seen on the instant of reach- ing the shore, on purpose to make us understand that the disciples did not light it after they landed, and that neither did they stir up the embers of the day before. It might have been expected that the disciples would have been so engrossed with looking at their risen IMaster as to have had no eye for any other oljject. Neither would they have had, we may venture to believe, unless for something startling and mysterious. But that strange fire, kindled, as they may 126 SALMON FISHING IX CANADA. have felt, by invisible hands, seems to have drawn off their attention even from the Lord Christ ; it fixed their gaze as they set foot upon the shore, and perhaps, like the burning bush with Moses, helped to persuade them of the actual presence of Divinity. And now you will observe, that though there was all the material for a repast, the Saviour does not forthwith invite them to dine, but first of all — this is a very significant circumstance — directs them to bring of the fish which they had caught. Neither was this direction complied with in haste ; there appears, on the contrary, to have been great deliberation ; the net was drawn to land, the fish were counted, and found to be in number one hundi-ed and fifty and three ; and it was not until this had been done, and as we may conjecture, some of the newly-caught fish had been dressed, in addition to those already prepared, that our Lord bade his disciples partake of the meal provided by Plis supernatural power. " Such are the main circumstances of the narrative, in the perusal of which we are inevitably impressed with the sense as of something strange and unearthly. " It may readily occiu to the thoughtful mind as one ex- planation of the kindled fire, and prepared repast, that Christ had been thinking kindly of His wearied and hungry disciples ; that, knowing how they had spent the night, and how much they would be in need of refreshment, He had graciously employed His power in making ready a meal, where, had they been left to themselves the}^ would have THE SERMOX. 127 been utterly destitute. We need not exclude this explana- tion. We may believe that it was part of the purpose of our gracious and compassionate Lord, to supply the bodily wants of His followers, to provide fire to warm them, and food to satisfy them. But there is too much reason for regarding the miraculous draught of iishes, like every other miracle of oru Lord's, as designed to serve for a parable, to allow of our being content with an interpretation of the text which would strip it of all figure, and reduce it to a mere evidence of the tender consideration of Christ for the bodily wants of His people. "There is another explanation which may suggest itself, and which makes the whole transaction refer especially to St. Peter. It would certainly seem as if one great object of this manifestation of Christ, had been the publicly restoring to the Apostleship the disciple who had so shamefully denied Him, but whose repentance had been as bitter as his offence had been flagrant. So soon as the dinner was over, Christ addressed Peter with the question, ' Simon, son of Jonas, lovest thou me more than these ? ' And when Peter had replied, ' Yea, Lord, thou knowest that I love thee,' Christ said unto him, ' Feed my lambs.' This was, as it were, the reinvesting Peter with the pastoral office, of which he might justly be thought to have stripped himself when he basely, and with an oath, declared that he belonged not to Christ. But Peter denied his Master thrice ; and thrice did Christ now propose the same ques- 128 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. tion, and receiving the same answer, thrice did he deliver the same charge of feeding the flock. As if Peter had thrice lost the Apostleship by thrice denying Christ, Christ thrice restored to him the office, that he himself and the other Apostles might have no doubt as to his having been forgiven. And when our Lord had thus, as it were, rein- vested Peter with the Apostleship, he proceeded to pro- phesy ' by what death he should glorify God ; ' so that almost the whole of this interview, as far as it is recorded by the evangelist, was occupied with matters personal to St. Peter, as though it had been on his account, or for his sake, that Christ showed Himself the third time to His disciples. " But how does the mode or character of the manifestation agree with the supposition of its having been granted ^\'ith an especial view to St. Peter, to his reinvestment with the pastoral office ? IMost accurately ; for when Simon Peter was first called by Christ to devote himself to the preaching of the (xospel, the Lord wrought, as you will remember, a miracle precisely similar, in its nature and circumstances, to that recorded in the narrative which we have under review. Simon Peter and his partners were then in a ship on the sea of Gennesareth. They had then toiled all night and taken no fish. At the bidding of Christ they then also let down the net, and the result then also was, that imme- diately they ' enclosed a great multitude of fishes.' And then it was that Simon Peter, being overcome by the miracle, THE SERMON. 129 Christ separated him for the office, to which he afterwards gave hira a more solemn appointment and commission. " It can hardly be imagined but that the similarity of the miracle must have painfully forced itself on the attention of St. 'Peter, bringing back to the mind of the penitent discij^le the happy occasion on which he had forsaken all that he might follow our Lord, and perhaps suggesting how deplorably he had since altered his position, through overweening confidence in his own steadfastness and courage. " But, it may be asked, what had the ' fire of coals ' to do ■with the transaction ? If we consider that our Lord caused a miraculous draught of fishes to remind Peter how He called him originall}^, and to produce in him a sorrowing remembrance of his grievous apostasy, might not the ' fire of coals ' help in a measure to produce these effects ? This much is certain, that the expression ' a fire of coals ' occurs only in one other place in the New Testament, as though this were not the ordinary sort of fire, and the evangelist wished especially to mark of what it was made. And it is the same evangelist, St. John, who uses the word on the two occasions, — St. John, whose great object in writing his Gospel appears to have been to supply the omissions of the preceding historians. But what is the other occasion on which St. John mentions a ' fire of coals ? ' It is when he is relating what took place in the palace of the High Priest, after Jesus had been apprehended K 130 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. and brought before Caiaplias : ' And the servants and officers stood there, who had made a fire of coals — for it was cold — and they warmed themselves, and Peter stood with them and warmed himself.' " It was, then, whilst he stood by this ' fire of coals ' that Peter denied his blessed Lord and Master. It was whilst he stood by this fire of coals that the Saviour threw on him that look which painting has never ca\ight, and which caused him to go forth and weep bitterly. Was not then ' a fire of coals,' found mysteriously kindled by unknown hands on the shores of the lake, likely to recall to Peter the circumstances of his apostasj' ? It were hard to believe tliat he could have looked on that strange fire, produced to all appearance by a miracle of Christ, and not have had all the scene in the High Priest's palace brought back upon him with a sort of crushing power. Again is he standing as he stood on that fatal night, and again he meets the look, which, more terrible in its meek reproachfulness than the fiercest glance of indignation and vengeance, convicted him of apostasy and convulsed him with remorse. " Nothing could be better constructed to fix his attention on the Apostleship than a miracle most accurately resem- bling that which had first moved him to forsake all and follow Christ; and according!}^, after another night of fruitless toil, the net is again ordered to be cast into the sea, and again encloses a huge multitude of fishes. But how, upon this wild sea-shore, is he to be forcibly reminded THE SERMON. 131 of his apostasy ? What shall people that shore with recol- lections of the scene of disaster and shame? Nay, if it was by ' a fire of coals ' that the recreant apostle stood when he thrice denied his Lord, and if ' a fire of coals' were amongst the last things to be looked for on the solitary coast, it might be hard to say what could have been better fitted than a ' fire of coals ' to fill Peter with a remembrance of his terrible fall. Oh it must have been to him as though there thronged up from the past the taunting tjuestions of the servants, and his own fierce execrations, and the shrill crowing of the cock, and the piercing, subduing look of his Lord, when so soon as he was come to land he ' saw a fire of coals there,' lighted, he knew not how, but for what he could not doubt. " But whilst we think that such an explanation agrees admirably with many of the circumstances of the case, and is replete with interest and instruction, we cannot give it you as in every respect satisfactory. We have still to seek an explanation which shall satisfy all parts of the narrative ; and this, we think, is to be found in the progress of the Gospel, and the connection between the old and new dispensations. "In one of our Lord's parables, the kingdom of heaven is likened unto a net, which, being cast into the sea, ' gathered of every kind ; ' so that we may be said to have our Lord's own authority for considering that tlie miraculous draught of fishes represented the bringing of multitudes K 2 132 SALMOI^ FISHING IN CANADA. into the Cliiirch through the instrumentality of the preachers of the Grospel. It is observable also that Simon Peter is said to have drawn the net to land : there may have been a reference here to the fact that in reward of his noble confession of Christ, Peter was intrusted with the opening the Clim'ch to the Gentiles; he it was, who, instructed by a vision from Grod, admitted by baptism Cornelius and his friends to the privileges of Cliristianity. For there can be no doubt, that in this second miraculous draught of fishes, there was a special reference to the combining of all nations in the visible Church. The number of fishes is to be carefully noted ; ' an hundred and fifty and three ; ' and so also is the remark of the evangelist, ' And for all there were so many, yet was not the net broken.' As to the number, it appears that one hundred and fifty and three was exactly the number of kinds or varieties of fish then known; so that we may most justly conclude that the number was an indication that persons of all nations and conditions should enter into the Chiux-h. And then the remark as to the net not being broken, though it enclosed so many fish, must be considered as prophetic of the capacity of the Christian Church ; unlike the Jewish, whicli was not constructed for enlargement and extension, the Christian Church might embrace the ends of the earth and not be overcharged, whatever the multitude and variety of converts. So far there is little difiiculty in assigning the parabolic character of the narrative before THE SERMON. 133 us ; every one may readily follow the facts, and be aware of their typical import. " But now we come again to the ' fire of coals ' and the prepared repast — what truths did these symbolically teach, when taken, as they must be, in immediate connection with the other figurative facts ? My brethren, you are to observe and remember, that the Jewish and the Christian dispensations are not so truly distinct and detached economies, as component parts of one great plan and arrangement. There have never been two ways in which sinners might be saved ; in the Old Testament, as in the New, ' everlasting life is offered to mankind by Christ, who is the only mediator between God and Man, being both Grod and Man.' In the New Testament, indeed, we have the clearer exposition of the great scheme of mercy ; God's wondrous purpose of saving the Church through the sacrifice of His only begotten Son, is there set forth with a fulness and precision, which it were vain to seek in the writings of the Old. Nevertheless there is no difference whatsoever in the doctrine propounded, but only in the measure of its revelation : and however great the change which was made through the coming of Christ when external distinctions were swept away, and life and immor- tality especially brought to light, there still went on the original process for the deliverance of the fallen race of man. The process was but continued, though with less of vail and obscurity, and they who were first enclosed within K 3 134 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. what might in strictness be styled the Gospel net, were caught — to keep up the metaphor — within the same meshes, and drawn to shore through the same instrumen- tality, as men of olden times, the ■ righteous who obtained eternal life ])y the assistance of the patriarchal or of the legal dispensation. "But let us see whether this great truth may not have been figuratively taught by the facts of which we are endeavouring to iind an explanation. There was already a fire kindled when the Apostles dragged to sliore the net, which especially rejuresented the Christian Church, tlie church that was to suljsist in its expanded form sul isequently to the coming of Christ. And on the fire which was thus burning there were fish already laid; yea, and the first directiiin to the Apostles was, that they should Ijriug of the fish which had just been caught, and add them to those whicli were already on the coals. Now since by the fish of all kinds which the net enclosed, we are undoubtedly to understand the memljers of the Church under tlie Gospel dispensation, ought we not to understand by the fish already on the coals, the members of the Church under the Jewish dispensation ? This is nothing but preserving or keeping up the metaphor. If the fish just caught, rejjresented the converts that would be made by the preaching of the Gospel, the fish which had been caught before, and not by those who now drew the net to land, may — we should rather say must — represent those of whom the Church had THE SERMON. 135 been composed during the ministrations of the law. So that the vii^ihle Church before Christ was iigured by tlie fish ah'eady on the coals, the visible Church after Christ by the fish just enclosed in the net; and when the newly caught fish were placed on the same fire with those which had previously been secured, was it not shown that the visible Church before and after the coming of Christ, was virtually but one and the same? that its members, at whatever time they lived, had to be brought to the same altar, and to be purified by the same flame ? I know not why we should not think that that strange fire, mysteriously kindled, on the lonely shore, was typical of the propitiatory work of the Eedeemer, through whom alone the men of any age can be presented as a sacrifice acceptable unto God. We have all to be laid upon an altar ; we have all, as it were, to be subject to the action of fire ; but there is no altar but the one Mediator, and no fire but that of His one great oblation, which will answer for those who seek to consecrate themselves, a whole burnt-offering, to their Creator in heaven. " And what could be a more lively jjaraljle of this fact, than that, just before His departure from earth, when standing on the margin of the sea, — the separating line, so to speak, between time and eternity, — Christ caused an altar to rise, mysterious as Himself — for no human hands reared it — and crowned it with burning coals, which had not been kindled by any earthly flame ; and then brought K 4 136 salmo:n' fishixg m canada. about that there should be placed on this sacred and signi- ficant fire representatives of the one visible Church, as it had subsisted before His incarnation, and as it was to subsist till He should come the second time to judgment ? "Now it can hardly be said that there is any part of the remarkable transaction before us which does not thus find a consistent interpretation. It is true, indeed, that we have made no observation on there having been bread as ■.veil as fish already provided ; whereas the evangelist is careful in noting it, and in afterwards mentioning that our Lord took of both, of the bread and the fish, and gave to His disciples. But you will remember that Christ, on a former occasion, had fed a great multitude with a few loaves and fishes, typifying how the truths and doctrines of His religion should suffice for the spiritual sustenance of the world. The disciples would naturallj' be reminded of this miracle, when Jesus again took bread and fish, and distributed amongst them — reminded too, and what parting lesson could be more important? that the food which Christ delivered to them as spiritual pastors, would be an abundant provision for the men of all ages and countries. " But now considering that a sufficient and consistent interpretation has been assigned to the several parts of the narrative before us, we would show you, in conclusion, into how beautiful an allegory some of the facts ma}'' be wrought, when a broader view is taken, one which shall more distinctly comprehend ourselves. We would not. THE SERMON. 137 indeed, claim, for what we have now to advance, the character of an explanation, or interpretation, of the significative circumstances — it is at best but an accommo- dation of the parable — but when a portion of Scripture has been expounded as if relating rather to others than to ourselves, it is both lawful and useful to search for some personal application, that we may feel our own interest, and find our own profit in the passage reviewed. " It is a natural and aj^propriate simile which likens life to a voyage, a voyage which has a variety of terminations — sometimes in calm, sometimes in storm ; the vessel, in one case, casting anchor in placid waters, so that the spirit has but, if we may use the expression, to step gently ashore ; in another, suffering ship\\T:eck, so that there is fearful strife and peril in escaping from the waves. We shall all reach the shore of another world : for though some may be said to be thrown violently on that shore, whilst others are landed on it as by the kind ministry of angels, none can perish as if existence might terminate at death ; of all it will have to be said, as of those with St. Paul in the ship, some by swimming, some on boards, and some on broken pieces of the ship, ' it comes to pass that they escaped all safe to laod.' " And there is something of a delineation of this variety of modes of death, in Peter's struggling through the water, whilst the other disciples approach the shore in their boat. Peter's is the violent death, the death of the martyr ; but 138 SALMON FISHING IX CANADA. his companions find a gentler dismissal from the flesh : theirs is the natural death, death with fewer of the ac- companiments which invest the last act with terror and awfulness. Yet, die when we will and how we will, there is a mysteriousness about the moment of dissolution, which must cause it to be expected with some measure of fear and apprehension. The passing in that moment from time to eternity — the becoming in that instant a disembodied spirit, a naked, unclothed soul, launched upon an unknown scene, with none of the instru- ments heretofore emjjloyed for the ingathering of know- ledge or the communication of thought — oh, who ever marked, so far as it can be marked, the noiseless flitting away of man's immortal j^art, without experiencing a painful inquisitiveness as to what had become of that part, as to where it was, as to what it saw, as to what it heard ? There may be thorough assurance that the soul has gone to be with the Lord ; but wliilst this destroys all anxiety on its account, it does not, cannot, repress the striving of the mind to follow it in its fliffht, the intense "aze at the folds of the veil which hangs between the present world and the future, as if it mu.st have been so far withdrawn for the admission of the spirit just freed from the flesh, that some glimpse might be caught by the watchful of the unexplored region beyond. " Biit in vain this striving of the mind, this intenseness of gaze. Wliilst we live, it is as an infinite desert, which no thought can traverse, that separates the two worlds ; THE SEEMO]!f. 139 though when we come to die, it will be found but a line, like that which the wave leaves on a sandy shore. Let it satisfy us in the meanwhile, that, whatever the mode in which the soul of the righteous is dismissed — whether that mode be imaged in Peter's casting himself into the sea, and struggling to the land, or whether it be represented in the quieter approachings of the boat with the other disciples — the soul will find preparation, as it were, for its reception; Christ stands there expecting his faithful servants, and of all of them it will have to be said, ' As soon as they were come to land, they saw a fire of coals there, and fish laid thereon and bread.' Oh, this may well shadow out, what we have abundant warrant for believing from more express statements of Scripture, that, to the faithful in Christ, the moment of being detached from the body is the moment of being admitted into a state of rest and peace and happiness. ' As soon as they were come to land,' all that was needed was found ready ; the fire kindled, and the banquet spread. " Yet who doubts that the righteous will not only find the material of happiness prepared, but that they will carry ■mth them, so to speak, additions to that material, and make heaven all the richer and brighter by their arrival ? It is ' the communion of saints ' ; and whilst each saint shall draw cause of rapture from those who have gone before, they also shall draw cause of rapture from him. How beautifully apposite then is the direction, ' Bring of the fish which ye have now caught.' The banquet, the 140 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. marriage supper of the Lamb, shall be furnished from the contributions of every generation ; all that any man, in any age, has been enabled to accomplish in works of righteousness and faith, every spiritual battle won, every convert made, shall be mingled in that vast store of happiness, of which the glorified Church shall everlastingly partake. ' Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord ; yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labours ; and their works do follow them.' They ' rest from their labours,' in that, as soon as they come to land, they see a ' fire of coals there, and fish laid thereon and bread : ' — 'their works do follow them,' in that they are there bidden to bring of the fish which they have caught. Oh that we may all so labour during life, that hereafter, when judged, as we must be, by our works, there may be found, not indeed — what can never be, a claim to the happiness of heaven, biit an evidence of our having loved the Lord Jesus in sincerity and truth. Amen." CHAPTEE VII. SAL3I0N FISHING IN THE SAGUENAY. ' Very good trong, And Terj- well sung ; Jolly companions, Every one." 143 CHAP. vir. SALMON FISHING IN THE SACUENAT. ANY were the commen- taries made by the indi- viduals ■ comprising the various groups, on the ser- mon of the chaplain, as they ■ retired from the cabin of the cutter to their residences on a:£^ the land or to their quar- ters on board the vessel. One only met the ears of his reverence, which was uttered by the blithe and careless Baron ; namely, " that it was very fishy ; " calling forth from the Priest a grave rebuke, which was received, as every lecture or scolding or quizzing was by the Baron, with the most imperturbable good humour. The Baron was a very handsome man. He was six feet two or three inches in height, had a profusion of dark brown hair, with a black beard and whiskers, which had now grown to an enormous length — features which, in 144 SALMON PISHING IN CANADA. repose, were tinged with a hue of deep melancholy, but when animated — and that was almost alwaj's the case — beaming with good humour, intelligence, and playfulness. Light of limb and agile as a roebuck, his every step was gTaceful. These natural advantag-es had been cultivated by education, and his manner polished by association with the highest society in Europe — every countrj^ and court of which was familiar to him, and almost every language of which he spoke with ease and fluency. In early life he had entered the navy of his native country, and there became an excellent mathematician and an admirable practical navigator ; but having soon inherited the title and large possessions of his father, a distinguished officer, he was appointed to a place at court, when, " disdaining a slothful life," he took to the pursuit of pleasure of every descripti(3n, an exercise which is very seldom found to be conducive to the improvement of a man's patrimony — as he soon began to feel — and in conse- quence had visited Canada to look after a large tract of land which his more prudent parent had purchased some years previously. He was a delightful companion, and the very best- tempered man I was ever on a cruise with. I saw him angry once, and only once. We had set out on an expedition to fish the rivers on the coast of Labrador with the ostensible intention of being absent from Canada for one month only, at the expiration of which he was THE BAROISr. 145 pledged to meet the Baroness at the Falls of Niagara. But we had already spent more than six weeks in going from river to river, and had been encamped for more than a fortnight on the banks of the beautiful Mingan, where the water becoming low, and the sport slack, we resolved to turn our faces homewards ; and so with sorrowful hearts struck our tents, and conveyed our traps to the yacht. We found the wind blowing very fresh, exactly in our teeth, with a heavy sea rolling, so that it would have been useless to make sail. The next day was dark, the wind had gone down, the air was calm, but the mighty waves " curling their monstrous heads," — like girls preparing for a ball — came tumbling into the mouth of the harbour, and with their hoarse voices plainly forbade us to go to sea. "VMiere- upon the Captain and I resolved to have one cast more for a salmon, and proceeding to the pools, passed a delightful afternoon, killing on that little sandbank, which neither of us will easily forget, five fresh-run, short, and beautiful fish of 12, 15, 17, 19 and 21 pounds weight. Whilst "we were on our way down the river, returning to the schooner, we overtook the Commissioner in his canoe : he had also killed his fish, was in good spirits, and gave us a most animated account of the Baron's anxiety to be off. Upon which we formed a conspiracy to propose the recon- struction of our camp, near the junction of the two rivers, in order to try his temper and have a laugh at him. Dinner was come and gone, the Baron was dejected and 146 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. paid small attention to the proportions in mixing his brandy and water. The cloud-compelling Jove would have hidden his diminished head had he seen the wreaths of curling smoke which came pouring forth from his lips. The rest of us talked over the events of the day, and " twice we slew the slain ; " when the Commissioner made an obser- vation on the weight and freshness of the salmon we had that day killed, as indicative that they were the heralds of a new run of large fish. " Do you know," said the Cajjtain, " that the very same idea was passing through my mind, and that I think it folly for us to remain here, losing four or five hours in each da}^ going to the pools, when we might just as well wait for a fair wind at the camping ground." The Baron looked steadily at him and finished his glass of grog. " I was all along opposed to our coming on board till everything was ready for a start," said the Commissioner. Here the Baron mixed another glass of brandy and water with still less regard to the usual proportions. "Well then," said the Captain, "let us put it to the vote. Old Jean Pare the pilot says that we shall have to-morrow un gros nord-est, and there's no manner of use in stay- ing here to be tossed about like shuttlecocks at nio-ht and to break our hearts in polling up against the stream in the morning. I am for pitching our tents again. Come, Commissioner, what say you ? " THE BAEON. 147 '' I say ditto," answered the Commissioner ; " we cannot lose more than one tide by doing so, we can cook our fish better at the camp fire than in the stove here, and we shall be home time enough." The Baron finished his tumbler. " Priest, now it is your turn," said the Captain. " 'V\Tiat do you think is best to be done ? " The Baron looked towards me with great confidence — for he knew that I had long been anxious to be homeward bound, — while I, thromng as much patience and resignation into my counte- nance as I could assume, replied : — " It is little matter to me now how long we stay here, I have long since overstepped the limits of my leave ; and that being the case, the consequences will be no worse if I am detained away another month : so that the prospect which to-day's sport affords of some good fishing, induces me to vote for deserting the ship to-morrow, and pitching our tents in the " old spot." The Baron, who had just compounded another tumbler- ful] of brandy and water, swallowed it at a draught, then slapped the glass with such emphasis on the table that it flew into fragments, and before he could be asked for his vote stalked out of the cabin towards the companion-ladder in an unutterable rage ; but the peals of laughter by which he was followed opened his eyes to the joke, and brought him back to join in the amusement Avhich his rising so readily L 2 148 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. at so rough a bait caused us. I never saw him angry before or since. Those who were present mil not readily forget that at one of the rivers which we visited during the expedition mentioned above, we encountered a gentleman, who, like the Baron, had been for some time in the navy, and that between them many nautical subjects were canvassed, and many differences of opinion discussed. On one evening when this very worthy man was our guest, the conversation — as was not unusual — turned upon what each of us had seen and done in the way of salmon killing. The Baron — who by the hje was no gTeat fisher- man — was eloquent on the suliject of some Hucho fishing he had had in the Danube, and mentioned one particular Hucho which took him several hours to bring to land. Our new acquaintance was a very matter-of-fact personage, and questioned and cross-questioned him till he was on the ver)^ verge of impatience. At length, after having drawn from him every particular regarding the flies, casting-lines, rods used in killing Huchos, and the weight of the one alluded to — which I think the Baron stated was 140 lbs., — he inquired whether he had hooked him from the bank or from a boat : the answer was " from the bank," which was followed by the question, " Then I suppose you had to run with him a long way down the river ? " The Baron's reply, which was given wth the utmost coolness, and with a well- bred stare, was, " Oh, not far — about three leagues ! " THE CAPTAIN. 149 " Sweet in temper, fail' in favour, Mild in manner, firm in fight ; Baron, nobler, gentler, braver, Never shall behold the light." The Captain. How shall I describe the Captain ? If the Captain wanted shirts, he would proceed to a haber- dasher's and order home a hundred dozen. If the Captain took a fancy for oysters, he would purchase a schooner full. If his leaning was towards claret, he would negotiate for the produce of a vineyard, He was hospitable, and had a wife who adorned his home — hewas " sui profusus," but he was not "' alieni ap'petens" unless the " chose in action " was a sporting salmon, in which case impartiality compels me to record my opinion, that he would rather prefer to hook and kill the fish himself than that any other individual in the wide world should do so, and small blame to him. He was an exceedingly agreeable companion, highly educated, had served in various parts of the world while very young — during one of his campaigns in a far distant and distracted land I first met him, was a hand- some man and knew it, rather impatient when everything did not go quite right, tard soit peu argumentative, and a little unmanageable when unadvisedly contradicted. Like many others, he was apt, if the wind was easterly, to magnify disagreeable mole-hills into mountains of mis- fortune ; and he, who would face fearlessly the raging bear, jump boldly at a yawning mountain chasm, or swim a swollen torrent in his clothes, would occasionally suffer 150 SALMON FISHIXG IN CANADA. himself to be put out of temper by having to breakfast or to dine an hour earlier than he thought fashionable or suitable. He had read much, and remembered well ; was a good linguist, a temperate man, a good churchman, tied an excellent fly — of which he was particularly careful — was a laborious and persevering fisherman, and had great taste in dinners and in dress. The first time we sailed in his yacht, he, from some un- accoimtable whim, arrayed himself in a full suit of scarlet, — scarlet jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and scarlet trousers. Upon landing at Mingan Harbour, we found that in order to ascend the river in our boats, we should either have to make a detour round a large sandbank at its mouth, of some six or seven miles, or have the boats carried across a narrow strip of land, three or four hundred yards, which separated us from it. The officer commanding at the Hudson's Bay Company's post having obligingly offered us a sled and a bull for the purpose, determined us to adopt the latter course. The bull was caught — harnessed, and, not without sundry manifestations of unwillingness, led to the water's side, where the boats had been already drawn up ; when the seamen, mth the assistance of a couple of Indians, set about placing one of them upon the sled. During this process, the Captain who was directing it, passed in front of the bull, who gazed at him, apparently ^nth a mixture of fear and amazement, showing symptoms of a desire to re- THE CAPTAIN .\ND THE BULL. 151 treat, disturbing in. some degree the equilibrium of the boat, and causing the Captain to repass hastily in front of him. Then fear forsook him, and indignation occupied the place of amazement in his bovine bosom ; he rushed furiously, his head lowered, and his horns directed towards the acute angle in the scarlet trousers, overthrowing on his hands and face the old habitant who endeavoured to restrain him with the reins, and by the violence of his movements breaking one of the traces which attached him to the sled and to the boat. The other trace having held out against the rapidity of his speed and the suddenness and streng-th of his plunges, caused the brute to slew round suddenly, which brought him again in full view of the Captain — who had been dodging round the sled — in his full suit of scarlet. The exasperation of the bull at this reappearance of the apparition which annoyed him, then knew no bounds ; he made a desperate lunge at the Captain — the Captain ran for it — the bull, jangling the chain traces at his heels, pursued him — the Captain increased his speed to the utmost — the bull was closing upon him — the Captain doubled — the bull's breath felt hot upon the captain's back, but neither his coolness nor his pluck forsook him ; he espied a small opening imderneath the wharf, for which he directed his hasty steps, and where, in about five feet of water, the suit of scarlet was com- pletely hidden from the glaring and disappointed eyes of the infuriated bull, whose attention was immediately occu- L 4 152 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. pied by the barking, gi-owling, howling, and snapping of about a hundred and fifty Indian dogs from an en- campment of the Eed Men. close by, causing, him, in his endeavours to escape from them, to run a capital ring through the bush at the rear of the post, and affording us — while we held our sides with laughter — an excellent idea of a buffalo hunt. The Captain gladly emerged from his concealment, looking very like a seedy river God in a pantomime, and, to the best of my lielief, has abjured scarlet as a fishing costume. The third individual comprised in our party on the occasiciU was the Commissioner. The Commissioner was a curiosity. He was the most expensively and the most ill-dressed man on the wide continent of North America. One would almost be inclined to think that he studied incongruity as the model after which he arrayed himself, except that his slovenliness forbid the idea of his having ever bestowed a thought upon the subject. I have seen him at one time promenading a populous city in a dirty, powder-smeared and blood-stained shooting coat, while his nether man was encased in black dress pantaloons, silk stockings and highly varnished french -leather dancing pumps. At another, I have met him with one of Gibbs' most recJierche dress coats, a ragged waistcoat, and worn- out trousers, all looking as if he had slept in them for a week, and lain inside of the bed among the feathers. His shirts never had a button upon them, which constantly THE COMMISSIONER. 153 caused his brawny and hairy chest to be exposed to view, while a fringe of ravelled threads from their wrists usually hung dangling over his fat, freckled, and dirty hands. It was a complete puzzle to his acquaintances where he ob- tained all the old hats he wore. That he changed his hats frequently was evident, for none of them ever bore the same shape for two days together ; their forms were mul- titudinous, so Protean, as to defy description ; but it may be said of them generally, that their outline was that which might be expected of the hat of an Irishman, who had been so well beaten on a wet day, in a fair, as to be induced to sleep all night in a ditch. Though his head was white, and his face purple — like a red cabbage in snow — he was, as Nathaniel Hawthorne says "a wonderful specimen of winter green." With his brisk and vigorous step and his hale and hearty aspect, he seemed — not young indeed, but a new contrivance in the shape of a man whom age and infirmity had no business to touch. His voice and laugh had nothing of the tremu- lous quaver and cackle of an old man's utterance, they came strutting out of his lungs, like the crow of a cock or the blast of a clarion. Looking at him merely as an animal, he was a very satisfactory object, from the thorough healthfulness and wholesomeness of his system, and his capacity, old as he was, to enjoy all, or nearly all, the pleasures which he had ever aimed at or conceived. The careless security of his 154 SALMON FISHIXG IS CANADA. life, in an official situation, on a regular income, with but slight and infrequent apprehensions of removal, had, no doubt, contributed to make time pass lightly over him. The original and more potent causes, however, lay in the rare perfection of his animal nature. To hear him talk of roast meat was as appetizing as a pickle or an oyster. It made one's mouth water to listen to him expatiating on fish or pou.ltrj^, and the most eligible methods of preparing them for table. His reminiscences (if good cheer seemed to bring the savour of turkey or lobsters under one's very nostrils. It was marvellous to oljserve how the gliosts of bygone meals were continually rising up before him, not in anger or in retribution, but as if grateful for his former appreciation, and seeking to renew an endless series of enjoyment at once shado^\'}' and sensual. A tender loin of beef, a spare rib of pork, a par- ticular magnum of claret, or a remarkably praiseworthy jorum of punch, which had satiated his appetite or appeased his thirst in days long gone by, would be remembered, while all the subsequent experience of our race, all the events that had brightened or darkened his individual career, all memory of the friends who had clung to him in his misfortunes, had as little effect upon him as the passing breeze. His temper was as uncertain as the wind towards his subordinates; sometimes familiar as a playfellow, at others as imperious, overbearing, and unreasoning as a Tiuk. He THE COMMISSIOX^EE. 135 was more cautious, however, with his superiors, and with those whose opinions might affect his interests. But — he was capable of a good-natured act, was a persevering fisherman — could tie, roughly, a killing fly — enjoyed a joke — made no objection to hard work, or coarse diet by " flood or field," and altogether was not a bad sort of com- panion for an expedition to the rivers in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. One of his boasts was to travel with the smallest possible quantity of luggage, indeed he seldom incumbered himself even with a change of linen. I re- member one very wet summer, that he and the Captain and I were encamped at the Upper Pool of the Goodbout : we got thoroughly saturated mth rain, and had to invent some device for drying our clothes ; with this intention, we erected, near our camp fire, two uprights and a cross ])o\e, to act as a substitute for a clothes' horse, on which we spread our moist and heavy garments, in hopes that the rain would cease during the night, and that in the morn- ing we should be enabled to array ourselves more com- fortably than we had done for some days. But, " allter visum esi," — the rain fell in torrents, the wind blew in fearful gusts, and we slept like tops, and did not even venture to put our heads outside of the tent, until the blushing morn tinged the heads of the dark pines, on the western bank of the river with a rosy hue. Then what a scene met our view ! The tempestuous wind had over- turned our clothes' horse and our clothes into the blazing 156 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. camp fire, which was now quite extinguished, but enough remained amongst the charred and blackened logs to prove to us that our garments had fallen victims to the fire and the wind. Here we could dimly discern the remains of a beloved red flannel shirt ; there we saw the sole of a well- nailed and trusty shooting shoe ; in one place might be seen the arm of a jacket, and in another, as if it had walked away from the fire, the leg of a shepherds-plaid trousers. We did not long mourn over om' misfortunes ; the day promised well for fishing ; the Captain and I were enabled to rig ourselves somewhat in the fashion of European Christians, but the Commissioner had literally nothing to cover him. At length, however, after having for a con- siderable time rooted amongst the ashes, he appeared ar- rayed in one half of a light blue flannel waistcoat, one leg and thigh of a pair of blackened russia-ducks which were held up by a piece of silk-fishing line, a shocking bad hat, and a pair of spectacles ; in which costume he fished, and diued and breakfasted and slept for nine da3'S and nine nights, "without a murmur, and, as I believe, without any doubt or misgiving but that he was as well dressed as he need be to attend a ball or a levee. The Priest, or, as he was often called by his friends, the Bishop, was the last item in the composition of this parti quarre. He, however, has no notion of drawing his own picture. If the amiable reader cannot form some idea of his mind and character from the perusal of the foregoing THE PRIEST. 157 pages, he must be content to live and die unknown and unappreciated. But here the reader may be inclined to say, " I did not open this chapter to be bothered with de- scriptions of the Captain and the Commissioner and the Priest. I wanted to learn all about salmon fishing in the Saguenay, and there is not one word upon the subject, although it is headed with these very words." My dear friend — don't be impatient — don't be angry. The reason you have learned nothing about salmon fishing in the Saguenay from this chapter is simply, that there is no salmon fishing in the Saguenay ; so keep your temper and turn tranquilly to the chapter which follows, and " you shall see — what you shall see." CHAPTEE VIII. SALMON FISHING IN THE TEIBUTAEIES OF THE SAGUENAY. ■' If all the seas were one sea, AVhat a great sea that would be ; If all the trees were one tree, AVhat a tall tree that would lie ; If all the axes were one axe, What a sharp axe that Would he ; If all the Yankees were one Yankee, Wliat a 'cute Yankee he would be ; And if the 'cute Yankee took the sharp axe, And cut down the tall tree. And let it fall into the great sea, What an immortal splash that would be." HoLYO.iXE's PoEJIS. 161 CHAP. viir. SALMON FISHING IN THE TEIBUTAEIES OF THE SAGUENAT. OME, Bishop," said the Captain, as we sat at the breakfast table in the cabin of the cutter on IMonday morning, " as it is raining too hard for us to expect any sport to-day, I toU tie some flies, and yrju -will tell us what you know about the salmon fishing higher up this river." " My dear fellow," replied the Priest, " you are quite right to avail youi-self of the opportunity which this terrible weather affords, for adding to your stock of flies, which is easier than increasing your store of information about the fishing in the Saguenay, if I am to be the source from whence your knowledge is to be derived, for I have never been farther up the river than we were on Saturday evening, and all I know about the matter is from hearsay, M 162 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. and that is never to be depended upon in matters pisca- torial, with regard to which I say deliberately, that which the Psalmist said in his haste, ' All men are liars.' But I have a little book here published by Carey and Hart of Philadelphia, purporting to be written by a Mr. Charles Lanman, wdiich may throw some light upon the suljject." " What's the title of the book ? " said the Captain. '"A Tour to the River Saguenay in Lower Canada,' replied the Priest ; " and I think I may just as well read you what he says about the river, in addition to what he says about the fishing, as his account is not a bad one. " ' The scenery of the Saguenay,' says he, ' is vnld and romantic to an uncommon degree. The first half of its course averages half a mile in width, and runs through an untrodden wilderness of pine and spruce covered hills ; it abounds in waterfalls and rapids, and is only navigable for the Indian canoe.' " Here the Baron asked what he meant by the " first half of its comse ? " was it the half adjoining the St. La^\Tence, or the half nearest to its source? "The half nearest its source of course," answered the Priest, and went on read- ing, " ' A few miles below the most southern fall on the river, is located the village of Chicoutamie, where an ex- tensive lumber business is transacted, and the Hudson's Bay Company have an important post. The villao-e has an ancient appearance, and contains about five hundred inhabitants, chiefly Canadian French. The only curiosity THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 163 in the place is a rude Catholic church, which is said to have been built by Jesuit missionaries upwards of one hundred years ago." "If it was built by Jesuits," said the Captain, "the Yankee ought to have called it a Roman Catholic church." " Don't interrupt me," replied the Priest, " or I'll leave you to read the book for yourself." " ' In the belfry of this venerable church hangs a clear- toned bell, with an inscription upon it which the learning of Canada, with all its learned and unnumbered priests, has not yet been able to translate or expound. " ' About ten miles south of Chicoutamie, there recedes from the west bank of the Saguenay, to the distance of ten miles, a beautiful expanse of water called Grand Bay. The original name of this bay was, " Ha Ha," descriptive of the surpjrise which the French experienced when they first entered it, supposing that it was the Saguenay, until their shalojjs grounded on the north-western shore. The tides of the ocean are observable as far north as Chicoutamie, and this entire section of the river is navigable for ships of the largest class. " ' That portion of the Saguenay extending from Grand Bay to the St. LavsTence, a distance of sixty miles, is greatly distinguished for its wild and picturesf[ue scenery. I know not that I can better portray to my reader's mind the peculiarity of this river than by the following method. Imagine for a moment, an extensive country of rocky and M 2 164 SALMOX FISHIXG IX CAXADA. thinly clad mountains, suddenly separated by some con- \T.Usion of nature, so as to form an almost bottomless chasm varying from one to two miles in width ; and then imagine this chasm suddenly half filled with water, and that the moss of centuries has softened the rugged walls on either side, and you mil have a pretty accurate idea of the Saguena}^. The shores of this river are composed princi- pally of granite, and every bend presents you with an imposing bluff, the majority of which are eight hundred feet high, and many of them upwards of fifteen hundred. Grenerally speaking, these towering bulwarks are not con- tent to loom perpendicularly into the air, but they must needs bend over, as if to look at their own savage features reflected in the deep. Ay, and that word deep but tells the simple truth ; for the flood that rolls beneath is black and cold as the bottomless pit. To speak wdthout a figm'e and from actual measurement, I can state that manj' portions of the Saguenay are one thousand feet deep ; and the shallowest parts not much less than one himdred. In many places too the water is as deep five feet from the rocky barriers as it is in the centre of the stream. The feelings which filled my breast, and the thoughts which oppressed my brain, as I paddled by these places in my canoe, were allied to those which almost overwhelmed me, when I first looked upward from below the fall to the mighty flood of Niagara. Awful beyond expression is the sensation which one experiences in sailing along the THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 165 Saguenay ; to raise his eye heavenward and behold hang- ing directly over his head, a mass of granite apparently ready to totter and fall, and weighing jjerhaps a million tons. Terrible and sublime, beyond the imagery of the most daring poet, are these cliffs ; and while they proclaim the omnipotent power of God, they at the same time whisper into the ear of man, that he is but as the moth which flutters in the noontide air. And yet is it not enough to fill the heart of man with holy pride and un- bounded love, to remember that the soul within him shall have but commenced its existence when all the mountains of the world shall be consumed as a scroll ? " ' It is to the Saguenay that I am indebted for one of the most imposing storm pictur'es that I ever witnessed. It had been a most oppressive day, and as I was passing up the river at a late hour in the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind came rushing down the stream, causing my Indian companion to bow as if in prayer, and then to urge our frail canoe towards a little rocky island upon which we immediately landed. Soon as we had surmounted our refuge, the sk}^ was overcast with a pall of blackness which completely enveloped the cliffs on either side, and gave the roaring waters a death-like hue. Then broke forth from above our heads the heavy roar of thunder, and as it gradually increased in compass, and became more threaten- ing and impetuous, its voUies were answered by a thousand echoes which seemed to have been startled from every crag M 3 166 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. in the wilderness, while flashes of the most vmi lightning were constantly illuminating the gloomy storm-made cavern which appeared before us. Down upon his knees again fell my poor Indian comrade, and while I sat by his side trembling with terror, the thought actually flew into my mind that I was on the point of passing the narrow gateway leading to hell.' " " What an infernal funk the fellow must have been in," said the Baron ; " when he thought he was going to hell." "And through a narrmv gate too," added the Com- missioner ; " he must have been an obese brute or sucli an imscriptural idea would never have occurred to him.'' "Pray be silent," said the Priest, continuing to read. " ' Soon, however, the vsdnd ceased to blow, the thunder to roar, and the lightning to flash ; and in less than one hour after its commencement the storm had subsided, and that portion of the Saguenay was glowing beneath the crimson ays of the setting sun. " ' From what I have written, my reader may be impressed with the idea that this river is incapable of yielding plea- surable sensations. Sail along its shores on a pleasant day, when its cliffs are parti}' hidden in shadow, and covered with a gauze-like atmosphere, and they will fill your soul mth images of beauty ; or if you would enjoy a still greater variety, let your thoughts flow away upon the blue smoke which rises from an Indian encampment hidden in a dreamy-looking cove ; let your eye follow an eagle sweep- THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TBIBUTAEIES. 167 ing along his airy pathway near the summit of the cliffs, or glance across the watery plain, and see the silvery salmon leaping by hundreds into the air for their insect food. Here, too, you may always discover a number of seals bobbing their heads out of water as if watching your every movement, and on the other hand, a drove of white porpoises rolling their huge bodies along the waters, ever and anon spouting a shower of liquid diamonds into the air. yes, manifold indeed, and beautiful beyond com- pare, are the charms of the Saguenay. " ' The wilderness through which this river runs is of such a character, that its shores can never be greatly changed in their external appearance. Only a small por- tion of its soil can be brought under cultivation, and as its forests are a good deal stunted, its lumbering resources are far from being iiiexhaustible. The wealth which it contains is probably of a mineral character ; and if the reports I hear are correct, it abounds in iron ore. That it would yield an abundance of fine marble, I am certain ; for in passing up this stream, the observing eye will frequently fall upon a broad vein of an article as pure as alabaster. " ' In speaking of the Saguenay, I must not omit to men- tion its original proprietors, a tribe of Indians, who are known as the Mountaineers. Of course it is the duty of my pen to record the fact that, where once flourished a large nation of brave and heroic warriors, there now exists a little band of about one hundred families. Judsring M 4 168 SALMON FISHIXG IN CANADA. from what I have heard and seen, the Mountaineers were once the very flower of this northern wilderness, even as the Chippewas were once the glory of the Lake Superior Eegion. " ' The Mountaineers of the present day are sufficiently educated to speak a smattering of French ; but they know nothing of the true God, and are as poor in spirit as they are indigent ^^utli regard to the necessaries of life. The men of this nation are rather short, but well formed, and the women are beautiful. They are proud in spirit, intel- ligent, and kind-hearted ; and many of them, it is pleasant to know, are no longer the victims of the baneful " fire- water." For this blessing they are indebted to the Eomish priesthood, which fact I record with great pleasure. The jMountaineers are a particularly honest people, and great friends to the stranger white man. They are also distin- guished for their expertness in hunting, and take pleasure in recounting the exploits of their forefathers.' " Here the Priest ceased reading, and laying do\\Ti the book exclaimed, " I have never read so many inaccuracies and mistatements in the same number of words, as are contained in this last paragraph. First, the worthy Yankee calls this tribe of Indians ' JMountaineers,' which is not the translation of the word jMontagnais, nor is it descriptive of the localities which they inhaliit, for the}' dwell chiefly in the great valleys to the northward of the Saguenay. Secondly, he states in the same sentence that they are THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 169 ' proud in spirit,' and ' poor in spirit ; ' thirdly, he says ' they know nothing of the true God,' whereas in the very next sentence he states that ' they are no longer victims to the baneful fire-water,' and that ' they owe this bless- ing to the Eomish priesthood.' Now I ask, is it likely that the Eoman Catholic priesthood would teach these people the vii'tue of temperance, without having also imparted to them a knowledge of that Grod whose ministers they are, or that they would exercise the self-denial of the Christian without any knowledge of Christianity ? But there is no occasion to ask or to answer these questions, when we visit the rivers Jeremy, Groodbout, and Mingan we shall see them in hundreds attending public worship in their churches at these places, churches which have been built for them, and are maintained by the Hudson's Bay Company. " I remember that on my first visit to the Eiver Grood- bout, iu going through the Hudson's Bay Company's store there, I observed a large number of old hats and old shoes, whilst everything else was spic and span new. In answer to my inquiry respecting this collection of coverings for the head and its antipodes, the very obliging store-keeper informed me, that they were provided and kept for the purpose of lending them to the squaws when they were about to attend prayers in their church. "He goes on to say, 'that they are sufficiently educated to speak a smattering of French.' Now the fact is that they all read and write, in proof of which I can state that 170 SALMON FISHIXG IN CANADA. to my own knowledge a petition from them was presented in 1849, to the Parliament assembled in Montreal, by J. C. Tache, Esq., M.P.P., the member for Eimouski. This petition was written or scored mth a style on a piece of birch bark about two feet square, and addressed in the Montagnais idiom to 'Les grands Bourgeois du Grouvernment.' There was, attached to the petition, a translation of it in French, in which they excused them- selves for having made use of ' Le papier des sauvages.' In their writing they make use of the form of printing tj-pes, as shown in the following Christian names, Piel . . . . Pierre. Planchois . . . Franfois. Glegloile . . . Gregoire. They have no R nor no F in their idiom, the L takes the place of R and P of the F." "Well now, Bishop," said the Baron, " that's enough about jonr dirty Indians, what does the Yankee say about salmon fishing in the tributaries of the Saguenay ? " " AMiy," replied the Priest, " his accuracy in the above instance is but a poor guarantee for his veracity on that subject, but hear and judge for yourself. 'The lithe, mid and beautiful salmon,' says he, ' pays an annual "^Hisit to all the tributaries of tlie St. Lawrence, lying between Quebec and Bic Island. ' " " Aye, and to all the tributaries far Ijelow Bic Island too," interrupted the Captain. THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 171 " ' But he is most abundant on the north shore, and in those streams which are beyond the jurisdiction of civilisa- tion. He usually makes his appearance about the 20th of May, and continues in season for two months. Nearly all the streams in this region abound in water falls, but those are seldom found which the salmon does not surmount in his 'excelsior' pilgrimage, and the stories related of his leaps are truly wonderful. His weight is commonly about fifteen pounds, but he is sometimes taken weighing full forty pounds. The common mode of taking is with a stationary net, which is set just on the margin of the river at low water. It is customary with the salmon to ascend the St. Lawi-ence as near the shore as possible, and their run- ning time is when the tide is high ; the consequence is, that they enter at one tide, and are taken out at another, and it is frequently the case, that upwards of 300 are taken at one time.' " " MTaat does the fellow mean," said the Captain, by "entering the net at one tide and being taken out at another ? " "I don't know," said the Commissioner, "except it be an awkward mode of communicating the fact that they become entangled by their gill covers in the meshes of the net, while the tide is high, and that they are taken out dead, by the fishermen, at low water." The Priest continued to read. " ' The Indian mode of taking them is with the spear. 172 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. by torch-light. Two Indians generally enter a canoe, and while one paddles it noiselessly along, the other holds forth the light — which attracts the attention of the fish, and causes them to approach their enemy — who pierces them with the cruel spear. This mode of taking the salmon is to be deprecated ; hut the savage must live, and has no other means for catching them.'" " The Yankee is right there," said the Captain ; " constant spearing will destroy any river, for there is nothing the salmon have such a fear and horror of as the taste or smell of blood. You remember. Parson, when we were at the JNIiugan, and that one of our party went out spearing on one single night, tliat the run of the fish ceased, and with it our sport for the season." " I remember it well," replied the Priest, " and there are few things aljout which fishermen ought to be more careful, than allomng their servants to clean the fish they have killed in the stream, or to throw their offal into it, for it is a fact well known, that the slightest tinge of blood, or the smallest portion of intestines, -will alarm a whole shoal of salmon, and send them running back in terror to the sea. The servants of the Hudson's Bay Company are well a^vare of this, and at all their fishing stations you will find that the place at which they clean the fish is at some distance from the river, and that they invariably dig a hole in which they deposit scrupulously all the offal. THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 173 " But our author goes on to say : ' j\Iy first salmon expedition of the season was to the St. Margaret River. I had two companions with me, one an accomplished fly- fisher of Quebec, and the other, the principal man of Tadousac, a lumber manufacturer. We went in a gig-boat belonging to the latter, and having started at nine o'clock, we reached our place of destination by twelve. We found the river uncommonly high and a little rily. We made a desperate effort, however, and threw the line about three hours, capturing fom- salmon, only one of which it was my privilege to take. He was a handsome fellow, weighing seventeen pounds, and in good condition ; he afforded my companions a good deal of fun, and placed me in a peculiar position. He had taken the hook when I was wading in swift water up to my middle, and as soon as he discovered his predicament, he made a sudden wheel, and started down the stream. ]\Iy rod bent nearly double, and 1 saw that I must allow him all the line he wanted ; and having only 300 feet on my reel, I found it necessary to follow him with all speed. In doing so, I lost my footing and was swept by the current against a pile of logs ; mean- time my reel was in the water, and whizzing away at a tremendous rate. The log upon which I depended hap- pened to be in a balancing condition, and when I at- tempted to sm-mount it, it plunged into the current, and floated down the stream, having your humble servant astride at one end, and clinging to it with all his might. 174 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. Onward went the salmon, tlie log, and the fisherman. Finally the log fonnd its way into an eddy of the river, and while it was swinging about, as if out of mere devilry, I left it, and fortunately reached the shore. My life having been spared, I was more anxious than ever to take the life of the salmon which had caused my ducking, and so I held aloft the rod, and continued down the stream, over an immense number of logs and rocks, which seem to have been placed there for my especial botheratiijn. On coming in sight of mj^ fish, I found him in still water, with his belly turned upward, and completely drowned. I immediately drew him on a sandbank near b}^, and while engaged in the reasonable employment of drying my clothes, my brother fishermen came up to congratulate me upon my success, but laughing in the meantime most heartily. The lumber merchant said that the log I had been riding belonged to him, and it was his intention to charge me one shilling from the rift where I had hooked the salmon to the spot where I had landed him, which was in full view of the Saguenay ; and my Quebec friend remarked, that he knew the people of Yankee-land had a C[ueer way of doing things, but he was not accjuainted with their peculiar mode of taking salmon.' " " Well," said the Commissioner, " that is about as romantic an account of the death of a fish, winding up with as dreary a pleasantry as I ever listened to." " Yes," added the Baron, " and besides it gives us THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 175 literally no account of the fishing in the Saguenay's tribu- taries as the Priest promised." " My dear friend," replied the patient Priest, " I never promised to tell you anything about the tributaries of the Saguenay, for I have never fished them. There are but two, as I am informed, in which there is any salmon-fishing, the St. Marguerite and Petit Saguenay ; of the former I have given you Mr. Lanman's account, and of the latter I know nothing, save that salmon are killed there, and that Mr. Price has extensive saw mills upon it." CHAPTEE IX. THE ESQUEMAIN. " Solitude is sweet only in the yicinity of gi'eat cities." Eeexahdin St. Pleeee. " Miscenela et alternanda sunt soKtudo et fi-ec[ueutia." — Sentsca. 179 CHAP. XL THE ESQUEMAIN. OU have been at the Eiver Esquemain, Bishop," said the Baron. " What sort of place is it, and how far is it from this?" " The Esque- main," replied the Priest, " is just thirty miles below Tadousac, and a beautiful stream it is, or rather, it was, as I have narrated to you " — in the 5th chapter of this book. " The American writer from whom I have so largely quoted on the subject of the Saguenay, speaking of this river says, ' It is a cold, clear, and rapid stream, aljounding in rapids and deep pools. At its mouth is located a saw mill, but its water-works are so managed as not to interfere with the salmon. The fish of this stream ascend to a great distance, and, though rather small, are exceedingly abundant.' " N 2 180 SALMOX FISHING IX CANADA. " I have killed as heavy salmon in the Esquemain as in any other river in Canada," said the Commissioner. " So have I," added the Priest, " except when I once went there after the erection of the water-works, which this gentleman says do not interfere mth the fish, but which I found to present an impassable barrier to their ascending the river, and then I killed only two or three ; but I saw the little urchins from the newly created village stabbing the unfortunate fish with common two-pronged steel table forks, as they leaped upon the apron of the dam in their endeavours to reach the upper pools." " ' Tlie best fishing,' proceeds the American, ' is at the foot of the waterfall, which forms a sheet of foam, about one mile above the mouth. My Quebec friend accom- panied me to this place, and though we only threw the fly about six hours, — three in the evening and three in the morning, — yet we killed thirteen salmon without losing a single line, and with the loss of only three flies.' " " He to IMoses!" exclaimed the Commissioner : " you and I have fished the river, Bishop, in its best days, before any dam or saw-mill defiled its beautiful waters, and we never did as much as this fellow snjs he did." " I mil not deem him completely unworthy of credit on that acco\mt," replied the Priest, " for the fishing in all oiu- Canadian rivers is most uncertain. For example, you and I have often fished the Groodbout, and I do not think either of us have ever killed more than five or sis fish in a SPORT AT THE ESQUEMAIN. 181 day; and there is the Captain, who may in some degree he denominated our pupil, and wlio witli liis own rod played and landed forty-two salmon and grilse in two half days." " It's true," said the Captain ; " and the two friends who were with me on that occasion had also very excellent sport." " I remember," added the Priest, " that one of the best apparent morning's sport we had at the Esquemain, was on the occasion of our first meeting the Captain on a fishing cruise. The Commissioner and I had pushed our cutter up the river to very near where the bridge crosses the stream, anchoring her there, and supporting her at low water with crutches, then providing ourselves with comfort- able quarters in the immediate vicinity of the fishing ground. Here we remained for three or four days, during which we had very fair sport, until on the morning to which I allude, npon going on deck about five o'clock we perceived a schooner at anchor to the eastward of us, and a bell tent pitched on an island close adjoining. Figures were moving about the tent, which our glasses told us were those of fishermen, a fact which tended to expedite our movements towards the favourite pool. Upon arriving there our very worthy friend and Captain, Vauglian, per- ceived that there was a net set in its southern side, from which, having drawn it ashore, he drew five fine salmon. In the meantime the Commissioner and I plied our rods, and soon had three noble fish stretched on the green grass, when Vaughan came to me telling me that the other N 3 182 SALMON FISHIXG IN CANADA. party was coming up, and that it was a murder the five fish were marked by the twine of the net, as, if they were not so, it would appear that they had all been taken by the rod. Upon this I very quietly scored the whole eight fish across with my knife, and set to fishing immediately. By this time our friends the Captain and John Cayley were close upon us, and just as they arrived, I was fortunate enough to hook another splendid fish, which I killed in their sight, and scored with my knife as I had done to the others. Seeing which, no doubt entered their minds but that we had killed the whole nine with our fiery-browns. It was some months before we undeceived them. The Yankee thus proceeds vnth his narration. " ' Owing to the bushy shores of the stream, we were com- pelled to fish standing upon boulders, located in its centre ; and whenever we hooked a fish, there was no alternative but to plunge into the current and trust to fortune. For some unaccountable reason — of course it could not have been our fault — we lost more than half of those we hooked. But it was worth a moderate fortune to see the magnificent leaps which the fish performed, not only when they took the fly, but when they attempted to escape. There was not one individual that did not give us a race of at least half a mile.' " "Well, that is a whopper,'' said the Commissioner ; "the entire distance from the pool under the fall to the bridge is not a quarter of a mile. But go on. Bishop." BLACK PESTS. 183 The Priest read on. " ' The largest taken during this expedition was killed by my companion, and caused more trouble than all his other prizes. Not only did the fellow attempt to clear himself by stemming the foam of a rapid, and rubbing his nose against a rock, to break the hook, but he also swept himself completely round a large boulder, poked his head into a net, and ran, with the speed of lightning to the extreme end of his line. It took my friend forty minutes to land this salmon, and I assure you he was particularly pleased when he found that his fish weighed one pound more than the largest I had taken. The fact was, our rods were alnlost precisely alike in length and strength, and as two countries were represented in our persons, the strife between us was quite desperate. I will acknowledge that the Canada gentleman took the largest salmon, but the States angler took them in the greatest number. Notwithstanding all the fine sport that we enjoyed on the Esquemain, I am compelled to state that it was more than counterbalanced by the sufferings we endured from the black fly and musquito. The black-fly is about half as large as the common house-fly, and though it bites you only in the day time, they are as abundant in the air as the sand upon the sea shore, and venomous in an uncomm'on degree. The musquito of this region is an uncommonly gaunt, long-legged, and hungry creature, and his howl is peculiarly horrible. We had been almost devoured by the black-flies diu-ing the afternoon, and soon as darkness N 4 184 SALIIOX FISHIXG IX CANADA. came we secured a couple of beds in a Frenchman's house, and, as we tumljled in, congratulated oirrselves upon a little comfortable repose. It was an exceedingly sultry night, and though we were both in a complete fever from the fly poison circulating in our veins, the heat excelled the fever, and our bodies were literally in a melting condition. We endeavoured to find relief by Ipng upon the bare floor, with no covering but a single sheet, and this arrange- ment might have answered had it not been for the flood of musquitoes which poured into the room, as one of us happened to open a window to olitain fresh air Every spot on our bodies which the flies had left untouched, was immediately settled upon by these devils in miniature. They jiiierced the very sheets that covered us, and sucked away at our blood without any merc)\ Un^\dlling to depart this life without one effort more to save it, we then dressed ourselves and sauntered into the open air. We made our way towards a pile of lumber, near the saw mill, and without a particle of covering endeavoured to obtain a little sleep, but the insect houuds soon found us out, and we bolted for another place. Our course now lay towards the rude bridge which spans the Esquemain, just above the mill. Our intentions at the time, though not uttered aloud, I verily believe were of a fearful character. On reaching the bridge, however, a refreshing breeze sprang up and we enjoyed a brief respite from our savage enemies. We now congratulated ourselves upon om- good fortune. A MISERABLE NIGHT. 185 and had just concluded to be quite happy, when we dis- covered a number of Indians on the river, spearing salmon by torch-light, and as it was after midnight, and the heathens were spearing on our fishing ground, we mourn- fully concluded that our morning's sport was at an end. But while in the very midst of this agreeable mood of mind a lot of skylarking musquitoes discovered our retreat, and we were again besieged. We now endeavoured to find relief on board the boat which had brought us from the Saguenay, and here it was that we spent the two last hours of that most miserable night. Though not exactly in a fitting condition to throw the fly with any degree of com- fort, we made an effort after salmon in the morning, and succeeded in kilhng a portion of the thirteen already mentioned. That we enjoyed a good breakfast which we had prepared for our especial benefit, and that we departed from the Esquemain as soon as possible, are facts which I consider self-evident.' " The only part of this story which I do not believe to be overdra^vn is that which relates to the anguish inflicted by the musquitoes and black-flies," said the Priest. " I perfectly agree with you," added the Commissioner ; " once their poison is absorbed into the system it produces not only local pain and intolerable itching, but a depression of spirits and despondency which can only be compared to the last stage of hypochondriasis, and any attempt to alleviate these painful effects by artificial stimulants, such as wine, 186 SALMON FISHIXG IX CANADA. brandy or beer, is only attended, by a fearful aggravation of them." " Let us alone about the musquitoes," said the Captain. " I have been reading a book which, if I were an Irishman would make a repealer of me ; but as I have not that honour it will tend to increase my admiration and respect for the Irish character. It is entitled ' The Rise and Fall of the Irish Nation,' by Sir Jonah Barrington. Just listen to his description of a pet of his, one Beauchamp Bagenal, ' His person was fine, his manners open and generous, his spirit high, and his liberality profuse. During a tour on the continent he performed a variety of feats which endeared him to his countrymen. He fought a prince, jilted a princess, made the Doge of Venice drunk, carried off a duchess from Madrid, scaled the walls of a convent in Italy, escaped from the Inquisition at Lisbon, and ran a celebrated fencing master through the body at Paris.' " " He certainly was a most respectable man," added the Baron ; " but I have never yet met an Irishman, who had not something similar in his history, or who did not appear to aspire to something of similarity with it in his character.'" " You are both exceedingly complimentary to my country and countrymen," said the Priest, " but I would have you to know that Sir Jonah Barrington is considered in Ireland an authority just as reliable in matters of history, as JMr. Charles Lanman is in Canada, on the subject of salmon fishina;." STORY OF A GOLD RING. 187 " Come, Bishop, draw it mild ; you can tell some whoppers yourself about fishing. What was that story you told me, at the sandbank in the Manitou last summer, about a salmon and a gold ring?" said the Captain. " I told you a plain unvarnished fact," replied the Priest, " and there are persons alive, though it is long ago, who can substantiate every word of it." " Come, Bishop, let us have the story ; the Captain is querulous to-day with this east wind, and we are not all such infidels as he." "Well," said the Priest, " it is no such wonderful matter after all ; and if the Captain will promise to hold his tongue while T am speaking, and to retie this dark claret for me, I'll tell it to you." The Captain having nodded assent, and unlocked the box containing his portable stock of silks, colours, wax, gut, feathers, &c. &c., the Priest proceeded as follows. "On the 6th of August 1834, I was on a visit, with Mr. and the Hon. Mrs. Drew, at a lodge which they occupied near Doonass, on the banks of the Shannon, and on the morning of that day went salmon fishing with the Hon. Wilham Massey, the brother of Mrs. Drew, who was anxious to get a fish for JMrs. Cuffe Kelly, with whom we were to dine, to meet a party given in honour of Miss Crosbie of Ballyheigh Castle in the county of Cork, to whom the said William Massey was about to be married. Well, we fished and we fished, we changed our flies, and in every direction 188 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. we thrashed the river, but not a single rise did we get, not a single fiu did we meet, not a fish did we see ; and about four o'clock getting perfectly disgusted were giving up in despair, when we saw Frank Drew and ]Major iMassey walking towards us hastily. They came to know what we had done, and to inform us that ujDon our efforts depended the character of jNIrs. Kelly's dinner, for that by some most unfortunate mistake the fishmonger had neglected to send the turbot she had ordered from Dublin, and that therefore unless we could produce a salmon all was lost. " Upon this I handed my rod to Frank Drew, and William Massey gave his to his brother the Major; we pushed the cot across the stream, and they fished Lacka, the most beautiful of pools, in vain, and then we all resolved to give up. The river is broad at tliis place and \\-e had to cross it : Drew having returned me my rod, I let out a long line trailing it after the cot. When we were just at shore, and I was winding up, I felt a feeble pull, and upon bending my rod found I had hooked a fish, which showed little sport, and was soon brought to the gaff, proving to be a ten pound fish, lank, and in poor condition. Bad as the fish was we were glad to get him for the peace of poor Mrs. Kelly's mind, and sent him forthwith to her cook, while we went to dress. " I should have mentioned before that, some two or three years previous to this occurrence, William Massey's wife, in crossing the Shannon, near the spot where I hooked this sal- STOKY OF A GOLD RING. 189 mon, in a fog, was lost, with her footman and two boat-men. Seven o'clock came, and William Massey having handed his bride elect to table, sat at the head of the hospitable board aroimd which were assembled twenty people, and proceeded to carve the salmon which we had so recently killed. Upon placing the fish knife near the gills to take off the first cut of the head, it grated upon some unyield- ing substance, which prevented his making the proper incision in the fish, whereupon he took a fork and drew out from a bed, which it had formed for itself beneath the gills, a solid gold finger ring, with the word " pure " stamped iipon the inside of it. It was handed about as a curiosity, and it was whispered at the table that it was one of the rings of the former Mrs. IMassey ; but this her husband denied aloud ; and eventually his sister, the Honourable Mrs. Drew, took possession of it, and I doubt not has it safe at Drewsborough at this moment." "How the deuce could it have come there?" said the Baron. " That's not easily accounted for," replied the Priest. " Still I think it can be readily imagined that the same description of fish, which is found in almost every stream which they frequent, to rise at and attempt to swallow a showy tassel made of tinsel and bright feathers, should rush with similar greediness at a glittering gold ring, pushed rapidly along the course of the river by the impetuosity of the water, and that being unable to swallow it, or to eject it 190 SALMON FISHING IN a\NADA. from the gills, with which it had probably become en- tangled, it gradually by its pressure formed the cavity in the salmon's throat, from whence William 3Iassey ex- tracted it." " You are dry to-day. Priest," replied the Baron. " If I am," said the Priest, " it's what you appear always to be, if we are to judge from the frequency of your drink- ing. I have just met an account of a temjjerance family, in an American newspaper, of which you would have made an excellent member : listen to it.'' "Joe Harris was a whole-souled merrj' fellow, and very fond of his glass. After living in New (Jrleans for many years, he came to the conclusion of visiting an old uncle away up in Massachusets, whom he had not seen for a long time. Now there is a difference between New Orleans and jMassachusets, in regard to the use of ardent spirits, and when Joe arrived there and found all the people run mad about temperance, he felt bad, thinking, with the old song, that ' keeping the spirits up by poming the spirits down ' was one of the Ijest ways to make time pass, and began to fear, indeed, that he was in a pickle. But on the morning after his arrival, the old man and his sons being or^t at work, his aunt came to him and said, ' Joe, yon have been living in the south, and no doubt are in the habit of taking a httle to drink about eleven o'clock. Now I fceep some here for medicinal purposes ; but let no one know it, as my husband wants to set the boys a good A TEMPERANCE FAMILY. 191 example.' Joe promised, and thinking lie would get no more that day, took, as he expressed it ' a buster.' After a while he walked out to the stable, and who should he meet but his uncle. ' Well, Joe,' says he, ' I expect you axe accustomed to drink something in New Orleans, but you find us all temperate here, and for the sake of my sons, I don't let them know that I have any brandy about, but I just keep a little out here for my rheumatism. Will you accept a little ? ' Joe signified his readiness, and took another big horn. Then continuing his walk, he came to where the boys were hauling the rails. After conversing a while, one of his cousins said, ' Joe, I expect you would like to have a drink, and as the old folks are down on liquor, we keep some out here to help us on with our work.' Out came the bottle, and do-wn they sat, and he says that, by the time he went home to dinner, he was as tight as he could well be, and all from visiting a tem- jperance family." CHAPTEE X. THE PETITE EOiMAINE. — SAULT DE MOUTON. — POET NEUF AKD BEESIMIS. ■' Here lies John Shaw, Attorney at law. When he died, The Devil oried Give ns your paw, John Shaw, Attorney at law." MooEE, not Haiojah. 195 CHAP. X. THE PETITE EOMAINE. — SAULT DE MOUTON POET NETTF AND BEESIMIS. ON'T tell him, Bishop, where you found that epitaph. Every one ought to have read the book, as a beautiful biography of Ireland's greatest poet." " I won't tell him, as you desire it ; but I trust you have no objection to my reciting another epitaph, and telling him where he will find it." " Not the least ; go on," said the Commissioner. " Well, then, in the parish burial ground of Pewsey, in Dorsetshire, England, there is a tomb on which is in- scribed — " ' Here lies the body of Lady O'Loony, Great niece of Burke, Commonly called " The Sublime." O 2 ]96 SALMON FISniNG IN CANADA. She was bland, passionate, and religions. Also She painted in water colours. And Sent sereral things to the Exhihition. She was first cousin to Lady Jones And " Of such is the kingdom of Heaven." Amen.' " There is anotlier in the churchyard of Moreton-in i\Iarsh, which speaks thus : *' ' Here lie the bones of Eichard Lawton, ■Whose death, alas ! was strangely Ijrought on. Trying one day his corns to mow off. The razor slipped and cut his toe off: His toe, or rather what it grew to, An inflammation quickly flew to, "Wliieh took, alas ! to mortifying. And was the cause of Richard's dying.' "•'A correspondent of Tlie Builder gives some instances of curious epitaphs, one from Dorchester, Oxfordshire, is as follows : — " ' Here hes the body of * * * * " ' And when he di^d lie owed Nobody nothing.' "' Another from Bideford, Devonshire : — " ' The wedding day appointed was, And wedding clothes provided. And when the day arrive it did, She sickened ajid she dieded.' STEAJS^GE EPITAPHS. 197 " From Ulverstone : — " ' Hero lies my vdfe, Hera lies slie, Hallelujah, Hallelujee.' '•■ From Doncaster: — " ' Here lies two brothers, Ly misfortune surrounded, One died of his wounds, and the other was drownded.' " I cannot recollect where I saw the following, but I can answer for its being genuine : — " ' Sacred to the memory Of Miss Martha G^^ynne, She was so very pure within, She burst the outward shell of sin, And hatched herself a cherubim.' " The present Bishop of Quebec, the Eight Eeverend G. J. Mountain, mentioned to me one which he had himself seen in some burial groimd in England, of which I forget the name. " ' Here lies — — — ****** She had two bad legs and a very bad cough, But it was the bad legs that carried her off.' " These are certainly strange and grotesque instances ; but I admire ' John Shaw ' most." " Come, come, leave off this nonsense ; we have now a nice breeze, and shall shortly be abreast of the Petite Eomaine, and must determine whether we shall land there O 3 198 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. or not. Can you tell us anything about it, Parson ? " said the Commissioner. " I cannot," replied the Parson, " except that the en- trance to it is so encumbered with shoals, sandbanks, and mud, that few schooners venture into it. In fact the same may be said of the Sault de Mouton, and the Port Neuf rivers. At the former — the Sault de Mouton — I was once for a few hours, and killed a multitude of trout, but do not think it looks like a salmon stream, in fact I doubt very much whether the salmon could surmount the falls, which are upwards of eighty feet high, and very near the sea. Besides which there is no safe anchorage near it, and as you appear to be impatient to flesh your maiden rods with fish, I would recommend you to proceed directly to the Bersimis." " What do you know of the Bersimis, Bishop ? " said the Baron. " Nothing personally," replied the Priest. " But I have here a letter from an excellent angler and a very honest man, who made an excursion there in the year 1847, some extracts from which may not prove unsatis- factory. But before I read them, pray turn to what Bayfield says of the entrance to this river ; as, in my opinion, a river that is difficult and dangerous to get into, and conse- quently difficult and dangerous to get out of, loses many of its attractions." " ' Bersimis Kiver," read the Commissioner, " ' enters the THE BEESIMIS EIVEE. 199 sea to the eastward, and one mile and three-quarters north east from the south extremity of the point of the same name. The south side of entrance of the river, for more than three quarters of a mile, is of low and bare sand. The opposite point of entrance is also of sand, and bears north-north-west, at the distance of rather more than a mile from the south point ; but this wide mouth of the river is closed by sands at low water, with the exception of a very narrow channel. The river within, for the first three miles, is wide and full of sand shoals. " ' The bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water, and shifts frequently, being completely exposed to southerly and easterly gales, it extends nearly a mile and a quarter to the eastward of the south point of entrance. Directions for entering the river must therefore be use- less, but it may be as well to remark, that within the bar the channel is always close to the south point of entrance, and keeps on that side through the wide part within, with a depth of nine feet at low water. The depth that could be carried in over the bar, in the month of July, was six feet at low water, and from thirteen to eighteen feet at high water, according as it might be neap or spring tides. " ' This river discharges a great volume of water, es- pecially in the spring of the year, and the water is fresh enough for drinking, when the tide is out, two miles within its entrance, o 4 200 SALiVION FISfflNG IN CANADA. " ' The Bersimis Eiver is navigable to the falls, which are thirty or forty feet high, and over granitic rocks. These falls are distant thirty miles north-west, three quarters north in a direct line from the south point of entrance, but the distance is nearly forty miles by following the windings of the river. The banks of the river are high and precipitous, being either of granite or cliffs of sand and gravel over clay. The basins and vallej^s between the hills are filled with these last named deposits, which sup- port a heavy growth of trees of the pine and spruce species. There is good timber to be met with occasionally. The breadth of the river varies from 100 to 300 fathoms, and its depth is usually from 2 to 5 fathoms, but 2 fathoms is as much as could be carried up to the foot of the falls. Hi * * * * goats can row up this river to the foot of the falls.' " "Well, all that is good enough in its way," said the Baron ; " but what we want to ascertain is, whether there is salmon fishing to be had in this river." " All the information I can give you upon the subject is to be found in the letter which I hold in my hand ; but it is not confined to an account of the Bersimis. However, as it speaks of another river or two which we shall jDrobably visit, I think it may not be uninteresting to read the whole of it ; so here it is," said the Priest. THE GOODBOUT RIVER. 201 " Bmire du Lonp. July 31st, 1847. " My dear Bishop, " In the first place I must thank you for your kind attention in writing and forwarding the papers, which we were hungry for, when we arrived, I can assure you, which happy event took place last evening, when we were fairly tired out ; but this morning we feel ourselves as fresh as ever, and ready to start again. I will now give you a sort of precis of our proceedings, which, as far as sport is con- cerned, have been satisfactory. " 1st. We left this place on the 14th of June, and sailed dLrect for the Groodbout, where we arrived on the evening of the third day, having had light bafHing winds. We found that the fish had commenced running on the 7th, that is that Franfois — the Maitre de Peche — killed his first salmon in the nets on the 7th ; last year he killed his first fish on the 1st of June. He informed us that the fish had not yet reached our old pool, en haut, as he had men on the look out, having let the fishing to two men from Eimouski. We therefore fished the large pool below the first rapid, where the portage commences, and killed several very fine salmon, 11, 12i, 13 lbs. weight, my own flies — red ones — telling handsomely. Mr. C went to the upper pool and fished it all day, only killing one salmon. " The musquitoes and black-flies at the lower pool were 202 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. really dreadful, and as there was no temptation to encamp at om- old ground, the fish not yet having run up, and Mr. Comeau represented the Trinity Eiver in such favourable colours, we thought we would go down there, fish that river, and return to encamp. We tried the Trinity, and a prettier river you never saw ; it was also full of fish ; we could see thousands of them in the first large pool, jump- ing and plunging in all directions, but not one of the rascals would look at a fly. T hooked one, — -outside I believe, — but lost him. I went up the river to the rapids, fanc}T.ng that we were too near the sea, but met with no success whatever ; so we agreed at once to return to our old quarters, and back we came. " Taking our tents, &c., we started for the upper pool and had the evening's fishing, from 5 o'clock till 8 on the 29th, when our numbers stood as follows : — • S n .... 13 Salmon T d .... 6 „ J s .... 2 „ average weight 11 pounds. " We fished nejct day, all day, and in the evening we stood again, S n . . . .13 salmon T d . . . . 11 „ J s .... 3 „ THE BERSIMIS RIVEB. 203 four or five of which were 13 lbs., the rest between 10 and 11 pounds. " The mornmg fishing of Thursday was not very good. T killed three fine fish, but by this time the flies and musquitoes had swelled us up to such a degree that we were absolutely compelled to give in, and go down to the ship to get well, as we cou.ld neither see nor hear, and we were all in a fever, particularly as we did not drink cold water. We went down to the vessel and Mr. Comeau reported such wonders of the Bersimis River, that we determined to try it, particularly as we were obliged, in self-defence, to get to sea. We accordingly sailed next morning, crossing over for supplies to Matane, where we were windbound for two or three days, killing, however, quantities of codfish. We left for the Bersimis after this rest, and crossed the gulf, anchoring at night in Sheldrake Eiver, and starting again in the morning, encountered a very heavy blow from S.E., which we were compelled to run before, when, passing the Bersimis, we ran for shelter to the south shore and anchored at night under Barnaby Island near Eimouski. I consider from what has since occurred that we were in great danger during all that day. The sea was very heavy indeed — very; and the vessel behaved well ; however, at Eimouski we were becalmed for a few days, but at last having got a slant of wind we crossed over and ran into Bersimis Eiver, a fine and beautiful stream. We hired three canoes, manned by Indians, and 204 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. started in high spirits for the falls, forty miles from the mouth, with full hope and expectation of making up our bag to a hundred salmon, having up to this period killed seventy- eight. At four o'clock in the morning of the 13th of July the canoes were alongside, and away we went, pulling up the river for about nine miles, wliich from thence assumed a bolder character, and as we went on increased in beauty and grandeur every pull. Some of the cliffs were perfectly beautiful. We encamped at about thirty miles from the mouth of the river upon an island, dined, and left early in the morning, arriving at the falls about ten o'clock, where we beheld the most beautiful pools and sweeps and salmon beds j'ou can imagine ; but what was our horror at beholding, instead of salmon, that at least 500 seals had taken possession, and from that moment we despaired. We fished, however, but in vain ; and after spending the day in fruitless efforts and unavail- ing regrets, and muttering curses loud and deep, and after slaughtering a dozen of the poor beasts with our rifles, we started again for the vessel, running clown the river in a day. Here was a quandary. It was time for us to go back, and we were all anxious to do so, but then how to make up the number of our salmon? At length we decided to run back to the (xoodbout and give the pool a last fish- ing. We left accordingly with morning, and at eight o'clock were safely moored and handing Fraufois a glass of wine. Next morning we went up to the pool, but alas, my THE BEST FLIES. 205 friend, the lost time could not be regained. The small fry had taken possession, and our success was very indifferent. We found it was no use wasting time ; the fish were there but would not take at all : now and then we caught a grilse. So we started, numbering only eighty-four salmon — one queer gaffer says eighty-five ; but by all our note-books we cannot make more than eighty-four. This is very pro- voking, as there is not the slightest doubt that if we had remained at the Goodbout we should have numbereii at least 150 fish ; but really we could not stand the fl.ies. 'WTiat shall we do another year ? " And now about flies. You will remember that we had a lot of O'Shaughnessy's make and a few of Martin Kelly's : the best were my 0"wn. I have no hesitation in saying that my own were out and out the best ; they are stronger, do more work, and take better ; but the hooks are not worth much. O'Shaughnessy's flies tore at once both in hackle and tinsel, standing no work whatever. I\Iy best killing flies have been red body with dark hackle, topknot tail, mixed wing and gold tinsel, in fact the ' fiery brown.' Second best, dark claret. The two best days' fishing con- sumed almost all my bright flies ; now I have none, but I think I know exactly what to tie for you and myself next year. I lost some tackle, principally single gut casting lines, by the fish taking do^vn the rapids. I tried the double and treble, but do iioi approve. Ishall send for very strong single gut next year, and use it altogether. I broke the top of 206 SALMON PISHING IN CANADA my rod by a heavy salmon taking under the boat in which I was fishing, and that is the whole amount of my accidents. I killed the greatest number of fish, and have to thank you and H. H. K. for all I know of the noblest art in the world — my number of the eighty-four fish being thirty- nine : so much for your pupil. But the party all maintain that I had great luck ! ! ! I never pretended to skill, but I dare say I shall learn. " Having determined to leave the Goodbout for the Eiviere du Loup, we started and ran all night with an easterly wind, which changed early in the morning to the west, blowing very hard indeed, and we crossed over in the hope of reaching JMetis. We failed, and ran for jNIatane, where our pilot in running over the bar into the river got frightened, completely lost his head, gave contradictory orders, played the devil, and ran us ashore on a sandbank where, in five minutes we were full of water, and the sea dashing over us in all directions. We got our boat out and attached a rope to it, and T — • — d and I with the seamen agreed to try and get on shore, from which we were distant about sixty yards. We started amongst the breakers, but the rope would not pay out and our rowlocks were gone ; so that after several ineffectual attempts to push to the beach through very heavy breakers with one oar only, we saw that our only course was to swim for it ; so in we dashed, and after a pretty severe struggle, the tide A WRECK. 207 setting outwards, we reached terra firma, more dead than alive, and cold enough. A boat now put off from shore, the wind lulling a little, and after a good deal of trouble she managed to get near enough to take off all the rest of the party. "The tide was now making very fast, and we gave up all idea of saving anything, but to my great astonish- ment we have saved everything. The watches are damaged, but all our tackle and bedding and everything were saved. We had some idea at first that the ship might be brought in and patched up, but the wind was very strong from the westward for two days, and the vessel was literally so rotten that she went bodily to pieces, and nothing now remains of the poor Shannon but her keel, which remains upon the sand bar of the river Matane. We have brought up a pai't of one of her timbers, which is completely rotten. It is very lucky for us that the accident happened when and where it did, as we might have lost our lives had we been caiight in a heavy gale, as I am certain her timbers would never have stood a pounding sea. Here ends our adventures, except that we hired a boat and came up in five days very comfortably. " I have thus given you a hurried sketch of our proceed- ings, which you will find somewhat interesting, and trust that next year we may be together, and in my next letter will give jou my ideas of how that is to be managed. We •208 SALMOK FISHING IN CANADA. shall remain here a week and then go to Nahant. I am glad you taught the Quebeckers how to fish.* " Yours very sincerely, "J. S." * The information in the foregoing letter, vrith regard to the Bersimis, is perfectly relialjle, Imt it is right to add that there are two or tliree tribu- taries of that noble rirer, ivhich abound with the heaviest salmon, and are admirably adapted for fly-fishing. ..■^y' ^>H, ^-"^ CHAPTEE XL SHELDEAKE. — GOODBOUT. — MATANE. - IIETIS, " Bear lightly on their foreheads, Tirae Strew roses on their way ; The young in heart, however old, That prize the present day. " I lore to see a man forget His blood is growing eold, And leap, or s'n'im, or gather flowers, Olilivious of his gold. And mix with children in their sport. Nor think that he is old. '■ I love to sec the man of care Take pleasure in a toy ; I lore to see him row or ride. And tread the grass mth joy. Or throw the circling salmon fly As lusty as a lioy. " The road of life is hard enough, Bestre^Ti with slag and thorn ; I would not mock the simplest joy That made it less forlorn. But flu its evening path witli flowers. As fresh as those of morn." 211 CHAP. XI. SHELDEAKE. GOODBOtJT. MATANE. METIS. 71 N several occasions, where it has been my good for- tune to make excursions in the gulf of St. Law- 5i;-:ffa rencB; I have fearfully ex- perienced the great un- certainty of being able to calculate \ipon arriving at any particular point within any given time. I left my party at the Mingan in the year 1852 at about 11 o'clock on a Sunday morning, and dined in my own house in Quebec on the following Thursday, whilst my companions, who followed me, took thirteen days to traverse the same distance. In 1853 we rattled down to the Mingan harbour in four days, and when after our season's fishing we had to retrace our steps, we took twelve long, calm sunshiny days to accomplish the journey. It was on this occasion, I believe, that the followdng P 2 212 SALMON FISHIXG IK CANADA. verses were composed ; at all events I find them amongst my memoranda in the hand-\\Titing of one of the finest fellows who composed that happy party. ATIRSES AGAINST THE ART OF NAVIGATION. "Ah siire the greedy ^vretch is pent In endless chains of deep damnation, Who first to plagne us did invent The cursed art of Narigatiou ! "AVhen to the "wind "we spread our sails, Along the patliless ocean strolling. Crammed in a tub stuck fuU of nails. Like Ecgulus. we die hy rolling. " The race of man, in ancient times, Were heut on rapine and on slaughter. But Hearen, in vengeance for their crimes. Decreed their fate, and sent salt water. " Of all the heav)' judgments passed On Egj-jjt for her sins rcnoivned, 8alt water was reserved the last, And Pharaoh and his host were drowned. "And now that we are tra-ned to fish. And with the sciu-vy grown all scaly, We make for sharks a eiirious dish, ■ftTiilst overboard we're tumbled daily. " All you who on (he laud abide, Our element to mourn us borrow, Let fall of tears, a briny tide. Salt water is the sign of sorrow," The poor fellow's leave must have expired, and his spirits been very low, when he gave vent to .siich despondent abuse " GINGER. 213 of " The sea, the sea, the deep, deep sea." The association of ideas — notwithstanding all that Locke says upon the subject — is a very unaccountable process; at least I cannot discover any reason why the above verses should have suggested to my mind the recollection of some others, which were transmitted to me by my very excellent friend and erudite companion. Dr. W. Winder, librarian to the Legislative Assembly, in a letter from which I take the following extracts. " I think j'ou will regret to learn that ' Ginger of ours ' is no more." Ginger was a corpulent bandy-legged terrier who was ever present with W. B. Lindsay, Esq., clerk of the Commons House of Assembly of Canada. " The poor fellow, not ' sleeping in his orchard,' but playing in the Place d'Armes, ' as was his custom in the afternoon,' was set upon by two large ruffianly Newfoundland dogs, and literally worried to death by them. Some one suggested that so faithful a friend as Ginger should not be permitted to disappear from the scene, without some testimony to his fame and character. Our Poet Laureate — Spink, I believe, rejoices in that honourable title — was spoken of as the proper person to sing the fame of Ginger ; but the invisible great unknown, though as it seems ever present Cangan, took the hint, and a few days thereafter Lindsay received the within imitation of the 24th Ode of Horace, by Horatius Canganus. " An amusing incident occurred, I am told, when P 3 214 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. Cangan read his verses to some very literate person. This wisdom-strickeu youth, with great critical acumen, ijbserved, that the Latin was incorrect if ' Tarn Cari ' meant Tom Carey — for though ' Tarn ' might be Scottice for Tom — yet ' Cari ' would never answer for ' Carey.' Cangan, although ready to explode with a thundering guffaw, restrained his feelings with that inimitable tact for which it is said he is so distinguished, and merely turned on his heel, and whistled — whether my uncle Toby's favourite air of ' Lillibullero' or not, is not stated. As you may suppose Cangan's name is more up than ever, and 'Who's Cangan?' with the occasional emphatic addition, 'Who the is Cangan?' was frequently heard resounding throutch our lobbies." ODE XXIV. TO LINDSAY. " Quis dcsiderio sit pudor aut modus Tarn cari capitis." — Hoe. Carm. Lib. 1. Parodied from, the ivrsimi of Br. Freincis. — Hy Cvsg.yn. " W\\j strive we, Lindsay, to conceal The sorrow we so deeply feel ? The gushing tear, tlic sigh repressed. For trusty Ginger sunk to rest ? Sweet muse of melting voice and lyi'e Melpomene — the strain inspire ! When shall affection so sincere, Fidelity, the sister fail'. " GINGEK. -21.5 Sagacity, unerring, staid. And truth in ai'tless guise arrayed, Among the race of canine kind An equal to our Ginger find? How did the good, the friendly, mourn. And pour their sorrows o'er his urn ! But Lindsa}', thine the loudest strain, Yet all thy pungent grief is vain. In vain do you the Fates implore Thy faithful Ginger to restore ; AATiom on far otiier terms they gave, By nature destined to the grave. — AVhat though j-ou could the IjTre command. And sweep its strings with softer hand Than Orpheus — whose harmonious song Once drew the Usteniug trees along, — Yet ne'er returns the vital state. The shado^^^ form to animate. For when the gliost-corapelling god Shakes o'er his prey his horrid rod, He "will not, lenient, to the breath Of hope, uuhar the gates of death ! 'Tis hard ; but mortals must endure The ills that sorrow cannot cure." " CANGAN. •Quebec, 11th Dec. 1851." But what does the kind and patient reader care for Cangan or Lindsay or Ginger ? Absolutely nothing. He wants to know what fishing he can have in the Sheldrake, and I regret that I cannot give him any accurate information on the subject. That there is such a stream, within ten or twelve miles west of the Hudson's Bay Company's station at the Groodbout, there is no doubt, although it is not mentioned by Bayfield — and that there are salmon in it P 4 216 SALMON PISHING IN CANADA. admits of no question ; but whether it is a good stream for the angler's pastime is still an unsolved question, for my belief is that it has never as yet been visited by any man who knew the use of a rod and fly. Mj impression is that this river is usually, by navigators and voyageurs, called by its Indian name Oljetsie, a salmon stream in the same imme- diate neighbourhood — with regard to which I can only give the following extract from the journal of a friend and Inxither fisherman kept during the season of 1853 : — " 12th July. The Canadian fishermen arrived this morning from the Obetsie, having left off fishing for lack of salmon ; they say that the take was most miprofitable this year." * * Since the al)OTe was WTitten, I haye receiveJ fi-om my friend Mr. George Clerk — a first-rate angler — a letter, from which I take the following extracts for the information of my readers. ■' I know the Obetsie riyer, and always thought it to be the same as the .Sheldrake. There is, howeyer, a riyer which I neyer entered, a few miles higher up than the Obetsie, which I haye slightly examined ; its Indian name is marked by me as Mastissimi, and it may be the Sheldrake. There is a large and striking rock at its mouth, aliout half way between the Obetsie and Pancras Cove, wdiere there is good anchorage, plentj' of fresh water, but no fishing except for sea-trout." " The Obetsie is distant from the Goodbout about four or fiye leagTies ; its mouth is distinguishable a long way ojf at low water by an immense reef of black rocks extending a considerable distance out, making it very difficult of access for anything drawing more than four or fiye feet of water. At high water these rocks are covered." " Once inside the river, the anchorage is good, but I woidd achise no one to attempt the entrance in anything larger than a pilot boat. At the mouth of the river there is no shelter at all, except in one or two coves for small boats." " The Obetsie is an early river, and the salmon cease running up it sooner than they do in the Goodbout. I was there on the 13th of .July, whilst the latter river was fuU of fish, but I did not stir a fin iu the THE GOODBOUT. 217 The next salmon river on the northern shore which is worthy the attention of the angler is the Groodbout. This stream is, according to Bayfield's admirable sailing direc- tions, eight miles westward from Point de Monts, and enters the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, and has a bar of sand, which extends from the eastern point of entrance to the distance of nearly half a mile, dries in great part at low water, and is extremely bold to seaward. There is usually at low water not more than four or five feet over this bar, on which a heavy surf very frequently breaks ; there are fifteen or sixteen feet of water over the bar at high water spring tides. There is a trading and salmon-fishing post of the Hudson's Bay Company at this river. It is possible to anchor on either side of the bar of the Groodbout river, but too near to the shore to be of general use. Notwithstanding the low depth of water and the intricacy of the channel at the entrance, this river is frequented every summer by schooners drawing eight and nine feet. I have been frequently there, and never experienced any difliculty in getting inside to a safe and commodious Obetsie, from which I conclude that the best time for "visiting it must be in June." " It looks like a, good fishing river. There are some pretty easts in it, and aljout a mile up there is a waterfall, but not so high 1jut that, when the water is large, salmon can surmount it ; at its foot there is a fine pool. Altogether I should say that to a party camped at the Goodbout, with plenty of time and a small boat at their disposal, it is wortliy of a visit about the end of June, but I should not think it is large enough for more than two rods." 218 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. tH r S r- ^ P o 1 ^^ P « c3 ^ S ^ O o, -J Q O o 2:, 1 1 p >: r-i ^ ^ o o ^ n ^ o o [i| "C S ^ > KH txH •""* H c^ £h rd ^ ■X! rd y=l ^ ^ cd (_, !-^ H !^ :3 ■^ r O O ^ ^ •-^1 o '^ 2; -3 HH ^ ^ o '"-' V. r-; ^ ^ <— ' C c ^ o O C o W J THE GOODBOUT. 219 anchorage, but have sometimes seen schooners fail to beat out when the wind blew strong from the west or south- west. This I believe to be one of the best rivers in the world for the angler; of course it varies much in different seasons; and although I was one of two white men who first threw a fly upon its upper pools in 1845, and have fished it often _ since, it has not been my good fortune to be on its banks in the seasons when it has been most prolific in salmon. The last time I fished this river was in 1849, when I arrived there on the 18th of June, remaining till the 3rd of July, during which time only twenty-one fish were killed, — a remarkable contrast to the case of Captain J. M. Strachan who, two years before, took forty-two salmon in parts of two days. The fishing in this stream consists of what are called the lower and the upper pools ; in the former fish are first caught, and they continue to afford the best sport as long as the water is high and the fish are running up from the sea : between them and the upper pools there is a succession of rapids, through which the salmon do not venture to ascend until the spring floods have greatly subsided, and then they do not remain in the lower pools, but push on upwards. I would recommend any one going to fish this stream to be there about the 7th of June, to establish his camp near the spot indicated in the chart at page 218, to remain 220 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. tliere till the salmon came up, and when his sport began to grow slack, to make an occasional visit to the upper pool, shifting his camp to that vicinity as soon as he finds the fishing better there than below. This mil be no trifling task, for the portage between the pools is about three miles of the steepest and roughest walking that ever it was my lot to meet with in a mountainous country, but it will be attended with much advantage, for it is always _ well to shift your tent occasionall}'', and you will be on the spot where you are to expect the greatest portion of your season's sport. In order to give some idea of what this may be, I do not conceive that I can adopt a better course than to give some extracts from the journal of an angler and a gentle- man, which he kept during his visit to this river in the summer of 1853, and which he has kindly placed at my disposal* "Left Quebec at 6 p.m. 7th June, 1853. Anchored off the Goodbout river at 7 p.m. on the 10th. Ban into the river at 3i a.m. On the 11th arrived at the camping ground at about nine o'clock. In the afternoon — the * It may lie \rell to mention that during tlie Trliole of this season, 1853, the employes of the Hudson's Bay Company had ticelvc Ijan-ier nets across different parts of this beautifid stream, some of them actually '" tlie very best of the pools. A suicidal policy which can only be accoimted for in one of two modes, either they wanted to disgust the gentlemen who were fishino- there, or being about to gire up their post at the rirer, they eudeavoui-ed to kiU (ji'cry fish in it. THE GOODBOUT. 221 river being very high — took a few casts from shore, but rose notliing. S y rose three fish in the evening, fishing from his boat. ''June I2th. Fished from boat from 7 until 8 J a.m., rose two and killed one. Fly, blue body, silver tinsel, mixed, gaudy wing, medium hook. S y killed one from boat. "June I3th. Hooked a large salmon at 11 a.m., at the head of the stream between the shore and the island, held him for several minutes, when, in spite of the butt, he caught the rapid and carried away the fly, — dark body, silver tinsel, wing of light mallard and turkey, black hackle. S y killed one fish of 7 lbs, and S one of 8 lbs. Weather clear and windy. A few fish running up, but not many. " I4th June. Divided the hours for fishing. S y began from 4 to 6, and brought in a salmon of 7 lbs. I fished from 6^ to 8^ rose one. S killed one of 9 lbs. From 4 to 6 killed a 9^ lb. fish with a 14 foot rod. From 6 to 8 rose ten fish, hooked and lost two in lonsr rapid on the north shore of the second island. Evening clear and calm. Several salmon playing in the pools, but rising shyly at the fly. "June I5th. From 4 to 6 a.m., hooked a salmon at the head of the long rapid, fought him for a few minutes, but lost him and casting-line in the stream. The claret and fiery-brown bodied flies, the favourites, varied in the 222 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. evening by blue with silver tinsel. Eose two fish in the evening ; B came up in the evening and dined with us. Weather intensely hot and sultry. Later, a strong breeze sprung up, but died away with the setting sun. S y killed two, and D his first salmon. "June I6th. From 4 to 6 a.m. killed a small salmon above the long rapid. From 7 to 10 killed another at the tail of the long rapid. S killed one at the point of the first island, and in the evening S y slew three fish in the long rapid. Weather very bright and hot, and the black flies niunerous. This day we agreed to di^dde the boats, two of the party fishing from 4 A.M to 12 ; the other two from 12 to 8 p.m. "June 11 til. Fished from 12 to 8 p.m., killed two ^.almon in the tail of the long rapid, hooked and lost two more in the same place. S killed three fish. Thunder showers. "June I8th. From 4 to 12 killed one fish. S killed two. During the day I rose, hooked, and lost four. Cloudy. "June I9th. Walked with D after breakfast to the upper pool, tried for, but found no salmon there. In the evening hooked and lost two fish. S killed three. S y three. Weather hot and bright, and the black flies awful. " June 20th. Killed one fish between 4 and 6 A. M. S killed three during the day. S y and D THE GOODBOUT. 223 one each. Thunder storm in the evening. Net put across the river by the Hudson's Bay Company, confound them ! Weather cloudy. Eiver low. Fish increasing, but not plentiful. Flies, slate-coloured and gray bodies, red hackle, turkey feather wing. " June 2lst. Killed a foul fish. D slew a sixteen pounder in gallant style. Weather still very hot and bright. " June 22nd. S killed three fish in the stream above the fall. S y killed one. Weather hot and bright. High spring tide in the morning. Went with D to the upper pool, which we found high and salmonless. In the evening fished from shore, but had no luck. " June 2Srd. Lost a big fish a short distance below the falls. S- ■ killed four above the fall dming the day. Weather cloudy but calm, and the salmon difficult to move. In the evening tried for the first time the green drakes, and found an admirer. S y and D bagged no end of sea-trout at the post. Ordered the schooner to Matane to make inquiries about the fishing there. Preparations being made for netting the upper pool, it is high time we should be off out of this. Salmon, from all accounts, a complete failure this year. Sorry I cannot say as much for the flies, to which the Egyptian plague must have been a trifle. " June 24:th. Last night the Indian whom we had hired 224 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. with his canoe, left us with the intention of not returning, because the flies were killing him. This morning, however, he made his appearance as the weather was coldwith a strong easterly wind and few flies. S y and S went to the upper pool, found it full of salmon, and brought home thirteen, having lost several others. In the evening the weather being cijld and inclined to rain, I fished for an hour, and hooked and lost a large salmon which carried out all my line in the rapid, and broke my casting line like C(.ibweb." The party remained from this date till the 1 1th of July, chiefly fishing the upper pool, and killing da)^ after day, four, six, ten, eleven, twelve, and thirteen fish. In the former part of the period dim flies were successful, in the latter they found small bright flies more attractive. They killed the greatest numbers in the upper pool, on the 28th of June, 1st, 2nd, and 4tli of July. They then set sail in their schooner for ^latane, where they found no fishing; from thence they proceeded to ]\Ietis, where they were lodged upon the bank of a beautiful stream abounding in salmon and saw-logs, the latter rendering it almost impos- sible to kill the former ; in addition to which there was no lack of hands to use the nets by day and the spears by night. Mr. Ferguson is the Seig-neur of ]\Ietis, and speaks of entirely removing a very detrimental dam which is across the river, of building a commodious hotel for the accommo- THE METIS. 225 dation of sea-bathers and fishermen, and of erecting shanties for the shelter of sportsmen, on the side of a lake about sixty miles off, which is said to be the som-ce of the Eistigouche river and to contain multitudes of salmon and large trout. Our party visited this piece of water, whichis called Salmon Lake ; but there they found no salmon and only a few small trout, the scenery however being very grand : from thence they wended their way to a spot on the Metapediac, one of the tributaries of the Ristigouche river called " The Forks," where, under the guidance of a civil and obliging man named Noble, in whose house' they found sufBcient accommodation, they fished the streams for some days without any success, though there were salmon in the river. If good fishing is to be had here at any time, it is in June, when the Indians do not use the spear, and when the water is too high in the lower parts for the nets to be worked effectively. Subsequently my friends, after a long, hot, and harassing land journey, returned to Metis, where, in spite of spears and saw-logs they managed to hook and lose and kill a few large salmon. The conclusion arrived at, by the friend, from whose journal I extract the foregoing particulars, is that there is no dependence to be placed on any account of salmon fishing on the south shore of the St. Lawrence. Yet it appears to me, from his own showing, that if an angler happened to be at Metis at the proper season — June — 226 SALMOJf FISHING IN CANADA. he would stand a good chance of killing some large fish, and of losing a great many also ; and that if the Seigneur keeps his word, removes the dam, and clears the river of logs, it may prove to be worth some thousands a year to him as a salmon river. CHAPTEK XII. TEINITY. —PENTECOST. — MAUGAEET. Q2 " oil, ye valleys ! Oh, ye moimtains ! Oh, ye groves and crystal fountains ! How I love, at liberty, By turns to come and visit ye." Cotton. 229 CHAP. XII. "TRINITY. — PENTECOST. MARGARET. is to with INGE we commenced jot- ting down our reminis- cences in the foregoing pages, we have had fre- quent occasion to make mention of the Hudson's Bay Company, and we think it is not improbable that our readers might wish to know something more of that honourable body than be found in those allusions, and therefore furnish them the following sketch.* * In the year 1669, a company was formed in London, under the direc- tion of Prince Eupert, for the purpose of prosecuting the fur trade in the regions surrounding Hudson's Bay. This company obtained a charter from Charles II., granting to them and their successors, under the name of " The Governor and Company of Adventurers trading into Hudson's Bay," the sole right of trading in all the country watered by rivers flowing into Hudson's Bay. This charter also authorised them to build and fit out men-of-war, establish forts, prevent any other company from carrying on trade with the natives in their territories, and required that they should do all in their power to promote discovery. Q3 230 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. The concerns of the Hudson's Bay Company are man- aged by a governor and deputy-governor resident in Canada, and a committee of directors established in London, by whom all general regulations and orders are devised, and sent forth, and by whom all the accounts, reports of subordinates, and other matters of interest are examined and controlled. The conduct of this body is enveloped in profound seeresy. Even the communications which they are required to make to the government in writing, are made with studied brevity and caution, and contain only what is absolutely required. This policy, which originated in apprehension of rivalry and of parlia- mentary interference in their interior regulations and intercourse with the Indians, it is to be regretted, has resulted in the suppression of a multitude of facts im- portant to science at large, and especially so to our geographical knowledge.* The duty of the governor, who is resident in Canada, is to visit the various trading posts, to superintend and direct the conduct of the commandants, and to collect and transmit to the Board in London an accurate account of their proceedings. Each interior fort or trading post has a commandant and a clerk, as many traders as are necessary to carry the goods into the villages * This disgrace, however, will no longer attach to them, for beside the dis- coTeries made by Heme, Dease, and Simpson, there is at the present day an ex^iedition on foot, under one of their most experienced and clever servants, to complete the survey of the northern coast of America, left unfinished by the last-named explorers. THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY. 231 and bring in the furs, and as many voyageurs or hands as are required to transport the goods to the various points at which their trade is carried on. The strictest dis- cipline and regularity, and the most rigid economy, mark all their proceedings ; and as the civil and criminal affairs and tribunals are composed of their own subjects, the Com- pany may be said to exercise all the functions of govern- ment, saving to the Crown only due homage and a nominal control. The posts of the Company are dotted all over Northern America from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The most northern is situated on M'Kenzie's Eiver within the Arctic circle, and is called Fort Good Hope. In all these territories there are near 100 of these posts. They are, with the exception of Fort Churchill, York Factory, and one on Vancouver's Island, stockades, with little wooden bastions at the corners capable of holding a travelling party of thirty or forty persons. But the unrivalled in- tercourse with the Indians has given them so complete a control over them, that, for purposes of trade in safety, they never need, and rarely have, more than four or five tenants. The largest of these posts, prior to the late treaty with the United States, was Fort Vancouver, on the Colombia Eiver, about ninety miles from its mouth, and accessible to vessels of fourteen feet draught. It consisted of a stockade, inclosing four acres of ground, a village of sixty houses, stores, mills, workshops, a farm f» '^^^^- •STi errant Banni de ses foyers ^ J^_> ^ E^ES Un Cana - dien Banni de ses foyers Parcoui'ait NKfn^^r^^rP^ ^ en pleurant Des pays etran • gera Parcom-ait en pleurant te§ ^ Ji^^ o: ^ ^ t2=t2=i^ Des pays dtran-gers Parcourait eu plem'ant Des pays eti-angers. Un j our, triste et pensif Assis an bord des Acts, Au courant fugitif II addressait oes mots : " Si tu Tois men pays, JMon pays malLem-eux, Va dire a mes amis, Que je me souvieus d'eux. " Pom' jamais separe Des amis de mon cojur, Helas ! oui, je momTai, Je mounai de doleur. " Plonge dans les malheurs, Loin de mes chers parens, Je passe dans des pleurs B'iufortmies moments." APPENDIX. APPENDIX. I. Tlie Decrease, Restoration and Preservation rjf Salmon in Canada. By the Eev. William Agar Adamson, D.C.L. Brillat Savarin, in liis " Physiologic du Gout," asserts that the man who discovers a new dish does more for the happiness of the human race than he wdio discovered the Georgium Sidus. If this be true, then he who could devise means for the presei-vation and increase of an old, wholesome, and higlily coveted article of food would not labour in vain, nor would, I imagine, his endea- vours be despised by the members of the Canadian Institute, how- ever humble his abilities, and however unskilled he might be in scientific lore. Actuated by this belief, as well as desirous t(5 respond to the demand for co-operation among the members of the Canadian Institute, I would venture now to give some notes upon the decrease, restoration and preservation of the Salmon (iS'a/mo Salar) in Canada.* It is unnecessary to magnify the importance of this fish as an economic production, or as an article of commerce. As food it is beyond comparison the most valuable of fresh water fish, both on account of the delicacy of its flavour, and the numbers in which it can be supplied. By prudence, a little exei-tion, and a very small expense now, it may not only be rendered cheap and acces- * Tliis valuable paper -was first prepared for the Canadian In.stitute. — J.E.A. tl 290 SALilOX FISHIXG IX CANADA. sible to almost every femily in Canada, Ijut also an article of no small commercial importance as an export to the United States, in Avliich country, liy pursuing tlie course which Canada has hitherto imitated, this noble fish lias been almost exterminated. T"\venty-five or thirty years ago every stream tributary to the St. Lawrence, fi-om Niagara to Labrador on the north side, and to Gaspe Basin on the south, abounded Avith salmon. At the pre- sent moment, with the exception of a few in the Jacques Cartier, there is not one to lie found in any river between tlie Falls of Niagara and the citj^ of (Quebec. This deplorable decrease in a natural production of great value has arisen from two causes: 1st. — the natural disposition of uncivilised man to destroy at all times and at all seasons whatever has life and is fit f )r foiod ; and 2nd. — the neglect of those persons who ha"\'e constructed mill dams, to attach to them slides, or chutes, hy ascending which the fish coidd pass on^wards to their spawning beds in the interior. It is sTipiposed Ijv manj' tliat the dust from the s;r\vmills getting into the gills of the salmon prevents them from respirating fi-eely, and so Ijanislies them from the streams on which such mills are situated; but I am pierp^iuaded that this is a mistake, for salmon are found in consideralile numbers at the mouths of many such streams, lielow the dams. Li the Marguerite, in the Saguenay, at the Pi'tit Sa(pienay, the Es-qucmain, Port Neuf, Eimouski, IMetis, and others that might be named, the real cause of the decrease is the insuperable olistacles presented by mill-dams, which prevent them fi-om ascending to the aerated waters, high up the streams, which are essential for the fecundation of their ova, and so for the propagation of the species. Would you then — it may be asked — pull down our mills in order that we might have salmon in our rivers ? most certainly not, I reply, for it is cjuite possible to maintain all our mills, with all their mill-dams, and yet afford to the fish an easy and inexpensive mode of passing upwards to their breeding places. APPENDIX. 291 ]Marvellous stories are told of the great heights which sahnon Avill leap in order to sumioimt the obstacles which nature or art may have erected between the lower parts of a stream and the upper waters which are suited to breeding purposes. Natural historians used gravely to tell us that salmon, in order to jump high, were in the habit of placing their tails in their mouths, and CANADIAN SALIION LBvU-S. then bending themseh'cs like a bow, bound out of the water to a considerable distance, from twelve to twenty feet. The late Mr. Scrope, inhisbeautiful book " Daj's and Nights of Salmon Fishing," calculates that six feet in height is more than the average sjiring of salmon, though he conceives that very large fi.sh in deep water could leap much higher. He says, " Large fish can leap much higher than small ones ; but their powers are limited or augmented U 2 29-2 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. according to the depth of watex- they spring from ; in shallow water they have little power of ascension, in deep they have the most considerable. They rise very rapidly from the very bottom to the .surface of the water by means of rowing and sculling as it were with their fins and tail, and this powerful impetus bears them upwards in the air, on the same principle that a few tugs of the oar make a boat shoot onwards after one has ceased to row." However this may be, we know that salmon use almost incredible efforts to ascend their native rivers. Modes have recently been adopted in France, in England, Scotland and Ireland, by which they can do so with ease, and which can be much more cheaply applied to mill-dams m Canada than in any of the countries above mentioned. This is simply by constructing beloAv each mill-dam a congeries of wooden boxes proportioned to the height of the dam — which could be done, in any weirs I have seen requiring them, for a sum not exceeding twenty dollars. We will suppose that the mill-dam to be passed over is fifteen feet high from the surface of the water, and that the salmon can surmomit the height of five feet at a single bound, then it would be only necessiuy to erect two boxes, each five feet high, one over the other (as in the illustration) to enable the salmon, in three leaps, to reach the waters which nature prompts him to seek for the propagation of his .species. In many Canadian rivers — such as Jletis, iMatane, Eimou.ski, Trois Saumons, &c. — this simple apparatus might be put in operation for one half the sum I have mentioned, and I trust it has only to be suggested to the gentlemen residing on their banks to arouse their patriotism and excite them to activity in the matter. There can be no doubt that were the mill-dams removed, or boxes constructed adjacent to them, and protection afforded to the spawning fish, many of the rivers in ZTpper Canada would again abound with sahnon. I have myself, within a few years, taken the true Salmo Salar in Lake Ontario, near Kingston, and many persons in Toronto laiow APPENDIX. 293 that they are taken annually at the mouths of the Credit, the Humber, and at Bond Head, in the months of May and June, which is earlier than they are generally killed below Quebec. Wliether these fish come up the St. Lawrence in tlie early spring, under the pavement of ice which then rests upon its surface, or whether they have spent the winter in Lake Ontario, is a question which I must leave to naturalists : merely mentioning that there is some foundation for believing that salmon will not only live, but breed, in fresh water without visiting the sea. Mr. Lloyd, in his interesting work on the field sports of the North of Europe, says, " Near Katrineberg, there is a valuable fishery for salmon, ten or twelve thousand of these fish being taken annually. These salmon are bred in a lake, and, in consequence of cataracts, cannot have access to the sea. They are small in size and inferior in flavour," which may also be asserted of salmon taken in the neighbourhood of Toronto. Mr. Scrope, in his work previously quoted, states that Mr George Dormer, of Stone Mills, in the Parish of Bridport, put a female of the salmon tribe, which measured twenty inches in length, and was caught by him at his mill-dam, into a small well, where it remained twelve years, became quite tame and familiar, so as to feed from the hand, and was visited by many persons of respectability from Exeter and its neighbourhood. But the fiict that salmon are annually taken near the Credit, the ,Humber and Bond Head is sufficient ground on which to base my argument for the probaljility that were the tributary streams of the St. Lai\Tence accessiljle to them they would ascend and an-ain stock them with a numerous progeny. Even were this fomid not to be the case, — then we have the system of artificial propagation to fiill back upon — a system which according to the Parliamentary Reports of the Fishery Commissioners has been practised with immense success in different parts of L-eland — according to M. Coste, Member of the Institute, and professor of the college of D 3 294 SALJIOX FISHIXG IX CANADA. France, in his reports to the French Academy and the French Government, has answered admirably in France, and according to Mr. W. H. Fry and others, quoted by him in his treatise on artificial fish-breeding, has been generally effective in Scotland. This system, as is well known, consists simply in transporting from one river to another the impregnated eggs of the salmon, and placing them m shallow waters with a gentle current, "where they are soon hatched, and become salmon fry or par and able to take care of themselves. In consequence of the ova of the salmon wdiich are deposited in the spawning beds in the months of October, November, and December, becoming congealed by frost iu the subsequent months, Canada appears to offer greater facilities for their safe transport than those coimtries in which the system has been so successful, but whose climates are more temperate. Surely, supposing this is a mere untried experiment — wliich is far from being the case — it would be "well worth the 'while of some of tlie many wealthy and intelligent dwellers upon the banks of our beautiful rivers to test its value, particularly when they call to mind the well-known fict in the natiual historj- of the salmon, that he invariably returns to the stream in which his youth was spent, and that so they may calculate upon having their present liarren rivers stocked with as valuable articles of consumption and of commerce as their fowl-houses or their farm-yards. I shall for brevity's sake alostain from enlarging on this suliject, merel)' observing that ample infonnation can be obtained upon it by consulting the works of M. M. Coste and Fry, which are to be found in the libraries and bookshops in this citj'* ; and that in the streams in which it may be put into operation — if there are mill- danrs upon them — the artificial construction to enable the fish to descend and ascend to and fi-om the sea will still be requisite. Having said so much on the decrease and restoration of salmon * Queliec. AI'PENDIX. 295 in Canada, let us now turn our attention for a few moments to tlieir preservation in tlie rivers in wliich they still abound. These rivers I believe to be as valuable and inexhaustible as any others upon the face of the globe ; but so circumstanced that their capabilities have not been developed, and that one j'ear of neglect will cause their serious injury, if not their utter destruction as salmon streams. They extend along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence fi-om Quebec to Lalirador, a distance of about 500 miles, and are many in number. They are chiefly held under lease from the Govern- ment of Canada, by the Hudson's Bay Company, who fish some of them in an unsystematic manner, with standing nets, because they can be conveniently and cheaply so fished, whilst others are left wholly to the destructive spear of the Indian. In the smaller streams on which the fishermen of the company are employed, a series of standing barrier nets (which kill indiscriminatelj' every fish of every size and weight) is used, a process which in Eitro- pean rivers would have long since banished salmon fi-om them. But in Canada the high water in the spring enables some of the largest and strongest of the breeding fish to ascend the streams before those nets can be set, and when they get beyond them, they are comparatively safe in the mountain rivers and lakes, which never hear a human footfall till winter — which congeals their surfaces into ice — tempts the poor Indian to tread their banks in pur.suit of the bear, the martin, the mink, and the otter. In well regulated salmon fisheries in Europe, the fish — by the construction of proper weirs and reservoirs — are almost as much tmder the control of the managers as the sheep on their farms or the fowl in their poultry yards. They can send such of them as they please to market, permit the fittest for the purpose to pass on to propagate their kind, allow the young to enjoy life till they become mature, and suiFer the sick and unhealthy to return to their invigorating pastures in the depth of the ocean. But U4 i96 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. no portion of this system is practised in our American rivers. There is not a salmon weir in the province; and tlie consequence is, that young and old, kelt and grilse, worthless and im- wholesome, the fish are killed by the midiscriminating net and the cruel spear. It appears to me that the Hudson's Bay Company set little value on these fisheries, and maintain them merely as an accident appertaining to the fur trade which is far more profitable. The approaching termination of their lease and the consequent un- certainty of their tenure may perhaps appear a sutficient reason for their not incurring the expense of erecting weirs, by which much more profit could be made of their fisheries. Unproductive and wasteful as their mode of fishing is, the protection the Hudson^ s Bay Company affords is the only present safeguard for the exis- tence of Salmon in Canada. I am persiraded that were that pro- tection icitlulrawn for one summer, ivithout the suhstitiition of some other as effective, this noble fish ivould he utterly exterminated from our country. Fishermen from Gasp^, Rimouski, Now Bruns- wick, Labrador, Newfoimdland, the Magdalene Islands and the United States — whose numbers and skill would enable them to do thoroughly what the servants of the H. B. C. from their paucity and inexperience do ineffectually — would swarm up our rivers, and with nets, spears, torches, and every other engine of piscine destruction, would kill, burn and mutilate ever^r fish that ven- tured into the rivers. Already has this been attempted. For the last two or three years schooners from the United States have i:egularly arrived, in the salmon season, at the Bay of Seven Is- lands, their crews well armed, and have set their nets in the river Moisie, in despite of the officers of the H. B. C. Similar circiunstances have occun-ed at other fishing stations in the tri- butaries of the St. Lawrence ; no means, that I am aware of, having been resorted to for prmishing the aggressors or prevent- ing a repetition of their outrages. The river Bersinies has this APrENDIX. 297 year (1856) been altogether in the hands of a speculating and rapacious American, who employed the spear of the Indian to furnish him with mutilated salmon, several boxes of which he brought to Quebec, in the month of September wlien they were out of season, unfit for food, and flavourless, having previously elutted the markets of Portland, Boston and New York with more palatable fish. There can be but httle doubt that many of the salmon streams in Lower Canada would be as productive, under proper manage- ment, as rivers in Europe for which large annual rents are paid ; but it must be admitted that the great distance at which they are situated fi-om civilisation, the want of the means of intercourse between them and the inhabited parts of the country, the liability to trespass by armed ruffians, and the dreadful rigor of the climate in winter, present very serious (jbstacles to those who might wash to undertake such management : for obviating some of which I see no better method than the employment, during the simmier months, of one or two armed steamers of light draught of water, such as are used for a similar purpose on the east coast of Denmark. These steamers should each have a commander on board, who should be a magistrate and empowered by parliament to act smnmarily in cases of infi-action of the Fishery Laws, and besides supplying the lighthouses and other public works with stores, oil, building materials, etc., conveying the workmen man- agers and fishermen to their several stations, and protecting the lessees of the province, might also be profitably emploj'ed as the means of transporting the fresh caught salmon from the several rivers, packed in ice, to the Railroad Stations at St. Thomas and Quebec ; from whence they could be distributed to the markets of Canada and the United States. Two Bills for the pro- tection of salmon and trout in Lower Canada have recently become Acts of ParUament. These may possiljly be productive of some good in civilised and inhabited districts, but must Ije utterly in- 298 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. effective in those parts of the province where there are no settled inhabitants, no magistrates, and no tribiuials before Avhich those who infringe the law can be cited; and this is the case of all the best rivers in Lower Canada. I cannot close these observations without endeavouring to im- press on all Avho hear me the necessity for prompt action in this matter ; for there can be no doubt upon the mind of any man A\dio is acquainted with the localities, that if the King's Posts should be abandoned by the Hudson's Baj' Company, before some well devised system be adopted for carrying on the work which they have hitherto effected, two melancholy residts -will be the inevitable consequences, A'iz. — the salmon rivers will be taken pjossession of liy hordes of lawless men, who AviU in no way con- tribute to the revenue of the country, but will quickly and recklessly exterminate the fish, and then desert our shores, leaving Ix'hind them no trace of their temporary occupation excepit the destructitm they ha"\'e wrought; and — more terrible still — a "whole trilie of Indians (the Moutagnards) will be reduced to a state of positive starvation, for upon the Hudson's Bay Compjany they have hitherto been, and are now, dependent for their anmuuiition, guns, and other means b}" which they oljtaiu their food and clothinu'. AI'PEXDIX. . 299 II. Ohservations on the Ilahits of the Salmon Famih/. Bij W. Hekrv, EsQR. Inspector General of Hospitals.^ The physical structure of fishes, so beautifully adapted to the nature of the element in ■which they live, has been the subject of especial notice and admiration amongst natiu-alists and philo- sophers, ancient and modern. The wedged-shaped head — the gradual and well proportioned enlargement of the Ijody — the .skilful machinery of the fins — the mailed and glossy skin — the ballasting air-bladder, and the rudder-tail, evince the wisdom, as the magnitude of the le^'iathans of the ocean show the power, of their Creator. But the use of the delicate painting with which the skins of many fishes are so richly adorned is not so apparent ; and on a superficial view, it would almost seem to be a waste of bright colours lavished amidst the dim twilight of the deep. Yet -we may Ije well assured from all analogy, that even this rich tinting of tlie mute tribes inhabiting the waters has not been bestowed on them without an object : and farther even, that it may serve pru-poses of the greatest importance in the economy of nature. The tiny lamp of the glow-worm and the fire-fly is delicately beautiful ; but it is also believed to be of great value as a minute beacon, governing and directing the movements of the male in- sect towards the female. Thus it is not improbable that the * Dr. Henry was one of the best fishermen in Canada, and a very intelligent man ; he wrote much and well. — J. E. A. 300 SALMO.\ FISHING IS CANADA. goTgeousness of the skins of many fishes is a point of attraction between the genders, keeping up the grcgariousness of the dif- ferent families amidst the vast aqueous spaces they traverse. However tliis may be, the painted skin of tlie fish, considered merely as ornamental, harmonises with the rich fur of the quad- ruped, the lirilliant phimage of the bird, the umbrageous foliage and blossomi)ig glory of the tree ; and, above all, the exquisite adornment of the flower. All should be viewed as boons from the gi-eat Source of measureless beneficence. We can conceive that a dull monotonous uniformity of shape, and sombre, melancholy colom-s, might have characterised the animal and vegetable kingdoms ; but it has pleased tlie Deitjf to fill the heavens and the earth, and e-s'en the waters under the earth, with beaut}', and to confer on his rational creature, man, the capacity to compirehend and enjoy it. Conspicuous amongst the finny tribes, as well for the cjuality of tlie delicious flesh, as for great elegance of colouring and symme- try of f)rm, are the Sahiwiiitv or Salmon famil)' : but principally, according to ni)' conception, is the Salmo Salar or common salmon, which lias been approjiriately placed I13' Cu^'ier, at their head. In fact, we can scarcely conceive anything more perfect than the tout eitseinblc of this noble fish, lie is moulded in accordance with our notions of great muscular strength, com- bined with remarkable lightness of outline: and every C|uality of the animal corresponds "with his appearance. His tunic of rich silver tissue is in the chastest taste ; his movements in his own element are peculiarl}' easy and graceful : he is flistidious in his food, as a fish of such high blood ought to be ; but he can on emergency Ijear hunger well, and even total abstinence for a long period without injury. His spirit is ardent, adventm-ous, and persevering, and his speed is great. It has been my fortune to be conversant -witli the habits of tlie salmon from early youth, in a river m the north of Ireland, on the APPEXDIX. 301 banks of which I was born. This association has been extended in afler life to many other salmon rivers, in different parts of the world, where I have enjoyed tlie pleasures of " the angle." I am enabled, therefore, from personal observation, to communicate some particulars respecting the natural history of the fish, which, probably, are not generally known, and may be, to a certain extent, interesting to the members of the Literary Society of Quebec. The Salnio Salar is placed by Cuvier at the head of the fourth family of the Malacopterycju, or soft-finned fishes. In a paj^er of this light and desultory nature, it does not appear necessary to describe its generic characteristics more minutely. It is an in- habitant of cold, or temperate climates, to the north of the equa- tor ; having never been found in the south. Indeed, such is the dislike of this fish for a warm climate, that it is very rarely seen in Europe southward of the 45th or 46th degree of latitude, but it abounds in the northern waters of the old world as it does in the new. Salmon run from the Pacific up the Columbia river, as fi'om the Atlantic into the St. Lawrence. The rivers of the Polar regions swarm with salmon during the short summer, and they are caught there in prodigious numbers. Commander Eoss obtained a ton weight of the fish from the Esquimaux in exchange for a sailor's knife, value about sixpence ; and his men afterwards took 3300 salmon at a .single haul of the seine. The rivers of Newfoundland and the Labrador coast contain abundance of these fish, which are also caught, but in diminish- ing numbers, in the streams of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. They are found in the Kennebec and Connecticut rivers, and a stray fish may be sometimes taken in the Hudson and the Dela- ware ; but this is a rare occun-ence. Salmon never ascend the Mississippi. Norway is said to be the finest salmon counti-y in the world. These fish go up the Khine as far as the falls of Schaffhausen, which they cannot surmount. They are found in the Loire, but 302 SALilOX FISIIIXG IN CANADA. I Ijelieve do not frequent any rivers fartlier south. In Gascon}' I have fished niimerous streams, tlie trilmtaiies of tlie Garonne and Adour, adapted as they Avould appear to be to the taste of the fish for cool waters, by the mehing of tl]e Pyreua'an snow, bait never met with, or heard of tlie Sahiio Sulor ; and very seldom found any trout, the smaller membiers of the family. I have also fished with mudi care se^■eral of the Spanish and Por- tuguese rivers, biit never found a salmon or trout in any of them. No Siilmon are to bie met witli in the [Mediterranean, nor any of its rivers. Tliey are also strangers to the Caspian and Black Seas ; though a large coarse fish, bearing some resemblance to the Scihiiri Sdlar, called the JTiieho, is found in (lie Danube. JNIost intelligent persons are aware tliat the salmon is a great anil intrepid tra'i'eller, migrating annually fi'om the sea to the fresh water, and ascending the largest rivers to their distant sources. Infinenced by unerring inslinct, it quits the deep .sea in sjjring or early summer, and repairs to the estuary of its native stream. It remains some days in tlie bi-ackisli water; probabdy to prepare tlie gills for the great change in the fluid they will liave to breathe. At the mouths cif small rivers the fish generally wait for a flood ; moving up and dowir witli the tide luitil the stream swells. Tlie salmon then boldly pushes on, dashing through rapjids, and even overleaping dams or other impediments in its way. After the first rush from the salt water, it avails itseff of the convenient resting place of a deep pool, or other spot where the current is gentle, to draw lireath for some hoiu's, or even a day, if the stream is strong and rapid. It there recovers its wind, and recruits its strength with a fly or a gras.shopper as they float down the river. The fish thus gradually appriiach the upper and shallower parts of the streams they fi'equent ; journeying by day "when the weather is cloudy, or the water sufficiently muddy to mask their movements ; but when the river is clear they travel APPENDIX. 303 hy night— partioiilai'ly if there is a moon ; otherwise very early in tlie morning. They seldom move, I believe, in the evening ; but then, when flies are most numerous, look out; for food. At length the salmon reaches his destination high up the stream, where he may look out for a mate, and take measures for the important business of propagating his kind. When a strong rapid, or even a fall of a few feet, occurs in the course of our adventurous traveller's voyage, the obstacle is surmounted without much difficulty. But when the stream is deep and full and the fall considerable, the impediment becomes a serious matter, and the poor fish stops and is sadly puzzled how to overcome it. He soon begins to reconnoitre his position, exploring in all directions for a passage, and leaping frequently several feet out of the water, apparently with the object of dis- covering the topography of the scene of his difficulties from this elevation. When he finds the obstacle insurmountable, he is obliged to wait till the river fiiUs ; or, in the event of the place being within the range of the salt water, which .sometimes hap- pens, until a spring-tide comes to his assistance. There are many salmon-leaps in Europe — particularly in the British Islands and in Norway. Two of tlie most remarkable are at Coleraine and Ballyshannon in the north of Ireland. With the latter of these I am very well acquainted. The large and very beautiful lake. Loch Erne, fifty miles long by ten or twelve broad, pours its water.s into the Atlantic by a short and rapid river, which, after an impetuous course from Belleek, and a last fall of fifteen or sixteen feet at Ballyshannon, meets the tide at the bottom of a perpendicular ledge of limestone rock. En passant I may remark that Sir Humphre}' Davy in his " Salmonia " praises the Erne as the best salmon river he ever fished ; and I think very justly. The sea is only three miles distant from the fall ; and in early summer innumerable salmon run up the river and assemble in " the pool," as the abyss below 304 SALMON FISHIXG IN CANADA. the rock is called, checked in their career by this formidable barrier. In the course of a week many thousands are here col- lected, waiting, as it wovild almost appear, for a spring-tide to raise the water in the pool and lower their leap. In the meantime they are taken in the seine in great numbers — sold on the spot, or shipped off, either pickled or in ice, to London. In the year 1808 I saw COO salmon taken there in one haul : two of which, weigli- ing fifty-four and fifty-six pounds, were afterwards exhibited as curiosities in the fish-house. Men, however, are not here the only fishers. Seals follow the siilmon from the sea and prey upon them in the pool, pur- suing them with greater speed and success than the unwieldy appearance of these amphibious creatures would lead one to expect. But these daring poachers, who tlms imprudently ven- ture into the presence of the lords of the creation, are generally shot — very often in Jiagraiite delicto, as they emerge fi'om the froth at the bottom of the ilill, with salmon writhing in their mouths. The Ballyshannon salmon leap is a scene of much curiosity and interest, particularly during spring-tides, when the weather is fine, and then attracts a great number of spectators. As the water rises the fish begin to leap — perhaps two or three hundred in an hour. The young salmon very generally miscalculate the direction they should take ; leaping perpendicularly out of the water, and of course falhng back immediatel)'. But the older fish, many of which, no doubt, have been up before, and are besides better mathematicians, manage differently. These dart to the crest of the cataract in a line with the curve of the falling mass, and there cling for some seconds, wriggling themselves into the torrent. In this very difficult position they can only work on the water Avith the pectoral and ventral fins ; the force of their powerful tail, by which they had sprung from the bottom, being now lost in beating the air. Many notwithstanding succeed, dip APPEXDIX. 30;; into the ■water at the top and shoot up the riTcr : but the great majority — probably five-sixths of the mtmber, fail, and after the most gallant struggle are tumbled back into the pool. At some of the salmon-leaps in Scotland, men are accustomed to catch the fish in a large landing-net, 'with a long handle, as they fall back after missing the leap. In Kilmarnock they tell a story of the eccentric, and somewhat savage Lord Lovat, who was beheaded on Tower-hill, which is characteristic of that noble- man's peculiar disposition. He was wont to have a fire Ivindled in a cleft of the rock close to a salmon-leap in a stream of that neighboru'hood. When it was approaching his dinner hour, he would direct a pot of water to be placed on the fire to boil, in the expectation that an ruifortunate fish, after missing his leap, might tumble over the edge of the rock into the boiling water, and tints commit self-salmocide. The tradition is, that his lord- sliip often succeeded in this quaint but cruel experiment. After the great effort of surmounting a considerable fall, the snccessftil fish rest during several hours in the first gentle current they meet, before proceeding farther on their journey. Some naturalists have estimated the first day's voyage of a salmon, after entering the fi-esh water, at fifteen or twenty miles ; but it is evident that the distance cannot be calculated accurately, and must vary according to the nature of the stream. If the river is rapid and obstructed by falls, the fish's stages must be short ; and vice versii. It appears to be necessary for the salmon to remain from tivo to three months in the rivers for the due development of tlie generative system, before pairing and the deposition of the spawn can be eflTected. In the meantime the Cjuality of the animal's flesh deteriorates — the skin, which is a correct index of the con- dition of the fish, changes from a silvery white to a tinge of reddish brown, and then to a dirty black brown. The firmness of tlie muscles softens ; the curd between their laj'ers disappears, and X SOG SALMON FISniXG IX CANADA. tlie cutaneous fat is alisorbcd. As the excitement cf the sexual passion increases, the appetite for food ceases, and the sahiion emaciates daily. At length the flesh loses all its nutritive qua- lities as human food, and becomes to a certain extent poisonous. The food of salmon in the sea, whatever it is, is eminently nutritive. The suliject is still involved in obscurity, though some clever naturalists have lately paid much attention to it. Dr. Knox, wlio has written a scientific and able paper on the natural liistory I if the fish, which was pulilished in the Transactions of the Eo)'al Society of Edinburgh for 1834, believes that he has discovered the secret. lie a^'crs that salmon in the salt water feed prin- cipalh', if not ivholh', on the eggs of the Astcrias Glacialis, or cross-fish, one of the Entomostnien, or testaceous insects. Now, from the animal's teeth, one might think he Jived on more sub- stantial food tlian almost microscopic ova. But there is positive evidence that cannot be doulited, of .sand-eels and small fish being eaten in the sea by salmon. Sir "Wm. Jardine*, who made an excursion to Sutherlandshire in 1834, for the purpose of examining the natural productions cif the countrj', and paid par- ticular attention to the haliits of the salmon, states that they are fften taken on the Sutherland shores at the haddock lines, halted icitlt sand-rclf, and in tlie Dirness Firth with Lines set on pm-pose with tlie same liait. xVnd what is quite conclusive on the subject, nn' ii'iend Dr. Kelly, of the Eoyal Navy, informs me that in the summer of 1835, when accompanying Capt. Eayfield, E.N., in surveying the Gulf, he saw some salmon, recentlv caught, cipened Viy the fishermen at Gaspe, and ohservcd three sand-eels and tiro smelts in the stomaeh af one of them. Dr. Kell}' adds that the fishermen told him this was a common occm-rence. After entering the fresh water, it has been a question whether sidmon eat any food at all ; as the stomachs of many individuals ■' Fourth Pieport of the British Association, p. 613. APPENDIX. 307 hfive been opened at different times, by various persons, and nothing oonld be discovered in tliem. According to my experience, the case stands tlius. Wlien tliey first ascend the rivers they Avill eat greedily enough — jump at flies of every description without hesitation — devour worms, grasslioppers, and even small fish. In the Lakes of Killarney they are caught under these circumstances by trolling with both natural and artificial minnow. At this period, as every salmon fisher knows, they will rise at his fly with eagerness. I have myself foimd, in at least a dozen instances, the larva of insects, remains of earth-worms, grasshoppers and various kinds of flies, in the stomachs of salmon caught soon after quitting the sea. But, after a month or six weeks' residence in the rivers, when the sexual propensities and organs begin to receive their development, the fish cease to eat, and then appear to be able to live for several Aveeks without any food whatever. Even before this time, and when they first run up the rivers, salmon are capable of bearing a long fast without injury. At Dayree's bridge on the Jacques Cartier river, nine leagues above Quebec, there is a tank, or reservoir, fed by a copious spring gushing out of the bank of the picturesque dell, through which that fuie stream runs. In this receptacle the fish which are not injured in being caught, are sometimes kept three weeks or a month, until a suflicient number are collected to be sent to the Quebec market. Under these circumstances, they continue in good health, and do not appear to lose flesh. There is a ford on the river Esk, about a mile to the eastward of the town of Donegal in the north of Ireland, which in my young days was a favourite resort of salmon in the breeding season. The lower part of this ford, just above the commence- ment of a small rapid, was generally the chosen spot. Here the bottom consisted of loose gravel, the stream flowed gentl)-, and, in ordinary states of the river, the water was about twelve or X 2 308 SALMOX FISHIXG IX CANADA. fourteen inches deep. Concealed in a thicket at the root of some willows on the bank, I have at this place, on more than tiventy occasions, witnessed for hours the interesting niana-uvres of the iish. With admiraole instinct these creatures never select a stream that is likely tc. dry up. It is essential, I believe, that the bed or nest of the ova should be at the bottom of riuining water of moderate dejith, — not in too strong a current, ivhich, during floods, would be likely to carry off and destroj' the deposite ; — nor in a stagnant part of the ri^"er, where a mud sediment and the want of water sufhcienll}" aerated might choke the embryo brood. When the place is chosen, both fish set to work to scoop out a pro})er IiliUow fur the spawn. On every occasion I observed that the female commenced the operation, as she had in all probability selected the site of the bed. She is easilj- distinguished from the male by her large and matronl)^ size, as he is conspicuous by the curious hooked appendage projecting upwards from the centre of tlie lower ja-w. The female then, in curious analogy with the hen-bird, begins to make her nest, by digging into the gravel i\'ith her belly and tail, sometimes poking a refractory peblile out of the way with her n(jse. The male fish all the time keeps Avatcli iu the inunediate neighbourhood of his wife ; and although nature has denied him the power of serenading her with a song, after the fashion of the cock-bird, our gallant ."^almon does not the less tenderly guard the privacy of his spouse, but s-\\'ims round her in a protecting circle, to pre-\-ent interlopers from disturl.iing her m her interesting employment. When the lady-fish has worked long enough, which may lie from a cpiarter to half an hour, she rests fir a little, and the attenti-\-e husliand takes her place im- mediately and commences digging. — She then circles round and watches over him iu her turn. Indeed, there is much moral in- terest excited liy these proceedings ; and I may venture to add, APPENDIX. 309 that tlie reciprocal punctuality and affection witli which this labour of parental providence is carried on by the silent pair, are Avorthy of all imitation by more exalted husbands and wives. Soon after the bed for the ova is finished, which is a trench five or six feet long, and about a foot and a half in breadth and depth, both fish remain for a short time in close dalliance imme- diately above it. The roe is then deposited by the female, and the fecundating milt shed over the eggs by the male. They then simultaneously commence pushing the gravel they had previously raised over the precious deposit ; and generaUy continue thus occupied during the remainder of the day, filling up interstices and compjletiug the work at their leisure. I believe they then retire, appearing to have done all that parental duty requires ; and although I have watched carefidly several times at the same spot, I have never seen either fish in the neighbourhood the day after the spawning. Em-opean salmon generally spawn in October or November, and the ova remain in their bed of gravel about 140 days. The increasing heat of March and April then vivifies the brood, and the young tadpole fish work their way by degrees out of the nest, with the filmy envelope of the egg, like an umbilical cord, still adhering to the belly. They grow with great rapidity, eat with voracity, and will jump at a dragon-fly as big as one of them- selves. In the latter end of April and the beginning of JMay, they gradually drop down the rivers, keeping in the shallow water near the edge, both to pick up their food and to avoid the attacks of pdves or other ravenous fish. By the end of the first week in Jime, they are all clear of the fresh water, under ordinary circumstances. These little fishes are extremely delicate, and will not bear rough handling. They are incessantly rising at an angler's flies, and I have caught some thousands of them and thrown them in again. If the hook has only a slight hold of the mouth, and is X 3 310 SALMOX FISHIXG IN CANADA. taken out with care and gentleness, they -will sirim away briskl}', quite tminjured ; but if the barb goes deep, or any rouglmess is used, they are destroyed. An accidental fall on the ground from the height of a foot or two, kills them immediately. Various attempts have been made to I transport them to fishponds fi-om their native streams, but, I believe, mth imiform want of success. I have several times made the experiment of removing smelts, as the fry are called, in a bucket of water, to a fish-pond adjoining the river, but fed fi-om a different source. — None of them lived two hours. Under these circumstances, it is probable that the most of the stories we have been told of these delicate fry having been caught and marked, and afterwards discovered in the cotirse of the same summer, gi-ilses, or young salmon, four or five pounds weight, are fictions; though there can be httle doubt of their gTowth in the sea being extremely rapid. In all probability the fiy which enter the .salt water in the beginning of June, return in September, or even earlier, small salmon. Shaw, in his Zoology, states that I\I. de la Lande fastened small rings of copper to the tails of different individuals, and found that they retiuned during three successi'i'e seasons. I ha"\"e never lieen able to ascertain this fact from my own experience, though I have caught some dozens of fiy, marked and liberated them, but in no instance had the good fortune to meet with any of my Httle captives after- wards. The condition of the parent fish, after spav\7iing, is verj' de- plorable. They become so weak and thin that they can scarcely stem the current of the river, and then usually seek the repose of some deep hole where they may remain Cjuiet, and to a certain extent recover their strength. But they continue languid and torpid during the winter, in a condition httle better than that of the hybernating animals. From the great emaciation of the body, the head appears disproportionately large, and looks as if APPENDIX. mi it belonged to another fisli. The flesh is "svhite, m- o: iirty yellow ; tasteless and unhealthy. When hooked by the anglei- tinder these circumstances, they are quite passive and helpless, and suffer themselves to be dragged almost unresistingly to the shore. In early spring they fall do'vvii the rivers, and, like other valetudinarians, repair to the sea for the recovery of their health. From the peculiar structure of their single heart, the circula- tion of the blood in most fishes is iveak and venous, and without the arterial vigour of terrestrial animals. Under certain circum- stances, salmon wid permit their body to be felt all over with the hand, and even appear to derive some gratification from gentle friction. I have repeatedly endeavoured to ascertain if there was any beating of the heart or pulse in any part of the bodj^, but never could discover the least pulsation anywhere. Authorities state, notwithstanding, that the heart of a large carp beats thirty- sis times in a minute. The salmon, being a larger fish, has pro- bably a slower circulation, if we may judge from analogy with respect to the mammalia. Man's heart contracts seventy-two times in a minute — a horse's thirty-six, and an elephant's (as I have myself ascertained) only twenty-four times. The respira- tion of fishes is, I believe, quicker than is generally supposed. From a mean of many observations made on seven salmon of different sizes, in a reservoir fed by a copious stream, I foimd that they breathe fifty-four times in a minute. Man's re.spiration is twenty. There is a peculiarity in the instincts of salmon worthy of notice, viz. ; their almost invariable habit of returning from tm- known distances and depiths of ocean to the streams where they were bred. They may be forced by stress of weather, or the pursuit of some of their natural enemies, into the mouth of a strange river — like a ship driven by a storm into a hostile port — but the vast majority find their way back to their native waters. X 4 312 SALJIOX nSHIXG IN CANADA. In the north of Ireland, and I believe all ronnd the coast, the fishermen -will immediately point out a stray fish. For, although the Sdliiio Salar is the same as to generic characteristics in every part of the British Islands, still there are minute variations of shapje and colour betAveen the fish of diflerent rivers, only recog- nisable by the keen eye of an experienced fishennan. Some recent experiments on one of the Duke of Sutherland's Scotch estates, if the accounts in the newspapers are correct, would appear to confirm the general belief as to this local instinct. It is stated, that in two branches of the Tay, no salmon had ever been found, although these streams appeared sufliciently tavourable for their habits and propagation. In 18.35, the Duke's agent jilaced a pair of breeding fish in each stream. The rivers -were carefully ^vatched and preserved — they bred ; and, true to their instinct, the young fish in 183G ascended those waters where a salmon had never licen seen before. Like tra^'ellers on liad reads, these fish undergo gi-eat faticues, and often suffer serious injuries in forcing their way up a power- ful anil rapid stream. They are driven by the cun-ent airainst sliarp and imseen rocks, and Ijruised and wounded more than would fie considered proliable. Tlie snout, with which they feel th.eir way wlien the water is muddy, is, under these circum- stances, always excoriated, and generally rubbed white. The fins too, particularly the pectoral fins, and even the tail, are often foiuid split ; tlie fine, liut strong membrane that l>ind3 the rays, having been torn Ijy the ■\-iolent eiforts their toilsome journey renders necessary. "\Ve had opportunities of seeing this every summer at Dayree's bridge on tlie Jacques Cartier river, wliere almost every salmon in the reservoir was thus woimded or disabled. Indeed the poor fisli have extraordinary difficulties to encounter in that beautiful but most rapid stream. I may here oljserve, that, although the distinguished epicures of ancient Eome explored every known region for dainties to APPENDIX. 313 furnish tlieir luxurious boards, our noble fisli never graced their banquets. Apicius might load his table with wild boar, the brains of swans and peacocks, and the tongues of larks and nightingales; or even introduce mullet, turbot, or Colchester oysters as a third coui'se — but one exquisite dish was wanting — he had no salmon. Mutability is tlie characteristic of every thing human ; and often, even the transition from the most distant extremes of luxury and penury is observable in nations, as in individuals. In the same country where the proud lords of the world were woBt to give suppers to tributary kings, in saloons dedicated to Jupiter or Venus, at an expense of 30 or 40,000/. the Patrician now dines on a modicum of macaroni, value a few pence ; whilst the descendants of the painted British, barbarians, so despised by the haughty Romans, give, at the present day, the most sumptuous entertainments in Eome ; and some years ago were wont to feed even their domestic servants, in their own country, with a dainty fish of far superior flavour to any that ever apj)eared on the talsle of Lucullus or Augustus. It is a fact, that about a hundred years ago, such was the abundance of salmon in the Severn, the Humber, the Tyne, and several other English and Welsh rivers, domestic servants sti- pulated Avith their masters, when hiring, that they should not be fed on this food more than twice a week. In Scotland and Ireland the same agreement continued to be made to a much later jseriod, even in the memory of some old persons now living on the banks of the Tweed, but with reference chiefly to the salted fish. In those days they were unacquainted with the mode of preserving the fish in ice, or even pickling them ; and they had no steamboats to convey them in a lew hours to London. It has been doubted whether the Sahno Salar of Europe, and the salmon of the North American rivers, are identical. As far 314 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. as I am capable of judging, they appear the same fish. The shape, colour, habits, conformation of the brancliias, number and posi- tion of the fins and of their rays, form of the tail, and niimber of the vertebras (Gl) are, I believe, generically the same. The flavour, too, of the American fish, caught unfatigued and fresh from the sea, mider equal advantages of cookery and appetite, is not in- ferior to that of his European brother. About the middle of JMay the salmon begin to run up the St. Lawrence, but not in any considerable numbers, till the middle of June. They coast along on Ijoth sides, on the look out for their respective rivers, I presume ; but ascend along the north- ern shore for the greater part, where the tributary streams are clearer and more rapid, and pour in cooler water than those in the south. They advance, I believe, with each tide, gradually feeling their way, and running up the small rivers as floods or other favour.al:)le circumstances invite them. Great numbers are caught in the stake nets, or in wooden traps, with which both shores are now thickly studded. Tlie smaller branches of the St. Lawrence absorb a large jiroportion. ftlany thousands, no doubt, ascend tlie Ottawa, to breed amidst its remote streams un- molested by man. Still, a largS'^(?. Marguerite, {en Pentecost . go T'rz??/?'^ (Bay) . Si Goodhout . s6- i s English P 1° Bersimis la a 3 5 S i Nipimewecaw' nan has) Considerable size. Good salmon-fisliery station. Discharges large body ofwater by several channels. Fine salmon river. Large, deep stream. High falls inside. Swarms of trout. Salmon ascending it only to the falls. Empties into spacious bay. Abounds with sal- mon. Celebrated for its salmon fishery. Discharges into fine basin. Good salmon river. Large, but shoal stream. Salmon abound. Is remarkable for a rare, beautiful, and flavorous quality of white or sUver trout. Bold, rapid river. Affords fine salmon fishing with fly. Good net-fishery station. Salmon abundant — steep rapids impeding their ascent. Fishery in bay. Famous stream. Salmon of finest kind and numerous. Large stream. Good sahnon-fishery location. (N.E. bound of "Lordship of Mingan.") Tolerable size. Fair fishery. Excellent net and fly-fishing for salmon. Pools always hold a heavy run of large fish. Branch of the Mingan, equally good and well known. Very large stream. Splendid salmon fishery. Tolerable good fishery for salmon. Eapid little river. Considerable stream. Chiefiy net fishery. Large — obstructed by perjiendicular fall. At its mouth both salmon and trout resort. Noted for numbers of weighty salmon. Ex- tensive and lucrative net fishery. Fine fly- fishing. Excellent river for salmon and trout. Full, swift stream, much frequented by salmon. Stationary fisheries at the mouth. Favourite river. Salmon and trout fishing, for net and rod. Fine salmon river, widely known as such. The net fishery in its tide- water and adjacent bay is very productive. Empities into deep cove. Salmon fishery. Plenty of trout. Immense stream, and has many tributaries. Sce- nery interesting. Abounds with large-sized salmon. They do not affect the fly except on the waters of its Ijranches. Triljutary of Bersimis. Fairy-like stream. Falls nine miles inside. Exquisite fly-fishing. z 3 342 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. ii Jeremie Colombier Plover Blanclis Laval . Sault de Coclion . 31"! Portneuf ^S Grand Escoumaiii G. Tjcrgcronne L. Berycrunne Small. Trout only. Fur-tradiug post, chiefly. Good salmon fishery. Do. Do. Pictiu-esque and mid river, alternating mth gentle rapids and deep narrow pools. Besides valu- able net fishery, it affords abundant sahnon and trout fishing. Steep falls hinder ascent of salmon. Famous for trout fishing along the estuary border. Pleasant stream to fish with fly. Up to the first falls swarms with trout. For several miles higher up is fi-equented by salmon. Net fishery station along the tide-way. Once famous for sahnon. Mill-dam has now an artificial fishway. Fine net fishery for salmon in bay. Good trout stream. Fair salmon and trout river. (Both the Berge- ronne rivers are withui few miles of Saguenay and Tadousae). Discharge into River Saguenay. St. Margaret {en haul) L. Saguenay St. John's {en haiit) Large tributary of river Saguenay. Fine salmon fishing for both net and fly. Trout abun- dant. Considerable stream, affording tolerable rod and good net fishing. Slill-dam inside, not in use. Do. Discharge into River St. Lawrence. Black, or Salmon . Fomierty good fishery. Murray . . . Flows doira beautifid valley. Yields salmon. Du Gouffre . . Much deteriorated. Ste. Anne . . . Pretty river, and latterly has afforded fair salmon fishing just below the chute. Montmorenei . . Cataract at mouth. The upper water swarms ^ith (river) trout. Jacques Cartier . . ExceUent salmon stream. DuSud OueUe G. Mitis Mataune South Coast. Promises to become again Mill-dam and fishway. Well stocked with salmon. Large stream. Has dam. Fine salmon river. Dam and salmon pass course of erection. a good salmon river. MiU-dam broken up. APPENDIX. 343 St. Ann . . . Formerly good. Now few salmon taken. Mill- dam across. Mount Louis . , Important stream. More noted of recent seasons for sea trout than salmon. Magdelaine . . Salmon river, clear. Dartmouth . . . First-class stream, flowing into Gaspo basin. Abounds with salmon. York .... Do. do. do. St. John's {du sud) . Do. do. do. Grand , . . Fine sabnon-fishery. Mill above. G. Pabos . . . Salmon-fishery. Superior station. Flow into Bay of Chaleurs. . Large and valuable stream. Many tributaries. Abomiding with salmon. . Both the little and great Cascapediacs yield high numbers of salmon. Good salmon fishery in bay. . Considerable magnitude, and abounds with sal- mon. . Noble river. Has fine tributary streams. Salmon frequent it in large numbers, and of heavy weight. Head of Bay Chaleurs. . Branch of Eestigouche. Salmon ascend it about forty miles. . Feeder of Eestigouche. Salmon river. G. Bonaventure Cascapediacs Nouvelle Matapediac Eestigouche Patapediac . Mistouche . Nearly all the rivers described in the foregoing schedule are tidal streams, and most of them have stationary salmon and trout fisheries within the embouchure, and at bays, coves and inlets on either sides. Those upon the north shore of the St. La\vrence descend out of wild, rocky and motmtainous country. Most of these streams, with their numerous tributaries, and the large lakes at the head of each branch, present every variety of river and lake adapted to the breeding and feeding of fish. Where there are mUl-dams it is specially so noted. None elsewhere. The names of certain Elvers at present advertised for sale are printed in italics. The true salmon (Salmo Salar), and the tide trout (Salmo Ti^utta Marina), are herein mentioned. z 4 344 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. The Grand Trunk Railway, now in operation to St. Thomas, will be opened next autumn to Eiver du Loup, 110 miles below Quebec. Passenger steamboats ply between Quebec and the Saguenay. Synopsis of the laws and htj-laivs noiv in force in Lower Canada, having especial reference to the p)reservation and regulation of Salmon and Trout fisheries. (Act 22nd Vict. cap. 86.) Section 4. The Governor in Council to grant special fishing leases and licences ; and make all needful or expedient regulations for management and dis- posal of fisheries. „ 5. A general superintendent and local overseers to be appointed, and paid by the Government, for each province. ,, 8. The Government may set apart any waters for natural cir artificial propagation of salmon and trout. ,, 24. The open season for salmon fi.shery limited betwixt 1st March and 1st August. Fly surface fishing extended to 1st September. Exception in pro- curing spawn for scientific purposes. „ 25. Spawning pools of salmon protected against all fishing. „ 26. Nets and fishing apparatus shall not obstruct the main channel or course of any river ; and such channel or course shall be at least one-thii-d of the whole breadth of a river. APPENDIX. 345 Section 27. Owners of dams must attach fishwaya thereto. „ 28. All parties concerned in breach of 24th Section become liable to fine or imprisonment. „ 29. The meshes of salmon nets must measure five inches in extension from knot to knot. „ 31. Trout fishing illegal between 20th October and 1st February. „ 33. Netting for trout in any lake or stream prohibited, except upon the Eiver St. Lawrence. „ 36. Purchase, sale, or possession, during prohibited seasons, of any salmon or trorrt, made a punishable oifence. Regulations under Order in Council. Bt-Law a. — Parties forbidden to occupy salmon or sea-trout fishery stations without lease or license from the Cro\vn. ,, B. — The use of nets confined to the brackish waters within the estuary tide-way ; and foi'bidden upon the iresh-water stream above confluence of tide. „ C. — All nets, &c., to be set no less than 200 yards apart. ,, E. — No other fishing whatever allowed over limits covered by exclusive leases or Licenses from the Crown, except by express consent of lessees or licentiates. ,, F. — Prohibits capture of salmon or sea-trout by torchhght, and with leister or spear. 346 SALilON FISHING IN CANADA. Bt-Law H. — The receipt, gift, purcliase, sale and possession of speared salmon or trout declared illegal. ,, J. — No mill rubbish to be drifted awaste in any salmon or sea-trout river. Appropriate penalties of fine or imprisonment, with forfeiture of materials and fish, are provided by laAv for the contravention of the several preceding sections and by-laws. Also, effective and smnmary modes of proceeding are laid doAvn for recovery of the same. APPENDK. 347 CROWN LANDS DEPARTMENT — FISHERIES. Toronto, 20th December, 1858. Pursuant to certain provisions of the Statute 22nd Vict. cap. 86, the Governor-General in Council has been pleased to adopt the followina; EEGrxATioNS for Salmon and Sea-Teout Fisheries IN Lower Canada. By-Law A. — In agreement with the intent and meaning of the 4th and 7th Sections of the Fisheiy-Act, it is hereby declared that, henceforth the Crown, for all practical purposes, resumes and re-enters formally into possession of aU fishing stations for sahnon and sea-trout appertaining thereto, in Lower Canada, and that no claim by priority or by reason of past occupation of any of these places, shaU hereinafter exist, and that any party or parties continuing to occupy and use any net-fishery for salmon or sea-trout without obtaining lease or license therefore under authority from the Crown, shall, after previous notice, become Hable to such pains and penalties as are imposed by the aforesaid Act, — saving moreover, aU other recourse in like cases provided by law. -B. — Neither stake-nets, drift-nets, gill-nets, float or steU-nets, scoop-nets, seines, weirs, nor other self-acting machine whatsoever, shall be used within the course of any river or stream fi-equented chiefly by sahnon and sea-trout, at a greater distance from the mouth thereof, than the usual mark of tidal floods, or inside of such other actual limit as may be assigned in the field to each estuary holding by the Superintendent of Fisheries for Lower Canada, or by the stipendary magistrate in charge of the Govern- ment vessel for the protection of fisheries. 348 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. C. — All nets, or other lawful appliances for the capture of salmon and sea-trout, shaU be placed within the estuary fishings at distances of not less than 200 yards apart, the interval so de- signated to mean along either side of the stream, and such mea- sm-ement to leave the space clear fi-om any net on one side to another net upon the opposite shore, without separate immediate nets, or other devise, being set anywhere therein. D. — The superintendent of fisheries for Lower Canada, or the stipendiary magistrate in command of the Government vessel for the protection of fisheries, may prescribe, either by written or published instruction, or on sight, the open space between nets to be set in bays, and elsewhere along the coast. E. — At the outside of the chamber and in the pound of every set or stake-net for the capture of salmon and sea-trout, there shall be maintained a flap or " door " at least ten inches square, which must be left open, affording free egress and passage to salmon and trout, fi'om sundoivn on Saturdays until simrise on Mondays. F. — All other persons are forbidden to take fish of any kind, and in any manner within limits covered by leases or licenses from the Crown, except by special permission of the lessees or licentiates. G. — The fishing for, taking, and killing of any salmon or sea- trout by aid of torch-light or other artificial light, and by means of spears, harpoon (negog), jigger-hooks, or grapnel is hereby absolutely forbidden. H. — Indians may, for their o^vn bona fide use and consumption, fish for, catch, or kill salmon and trout by such means as are next above proliibited during the months of May, June, and July, biTt only upon waters not then leased, licensed, or reserved by APPENDIX 349 the Cro^vn ; provided always that each and every Indian thus exempted sliall be at all times forbidden to sell, barter, or give away any salmon and trout so captured or killed in the manner hereinbefore described. /. — The receipt, gift, purchase, sale, and possession by any person or persons other than Indians of any salmon or trout which may have been speared or taken as aforesaid, shall be punishable according to law ; and every fish so found or had in violation of this rule, shall become forfeited and disposable as the law directs. J. — No fishing shaU be allowed in any water set apart by the Crown for purposes of natural or artificial breeding of salmon and trout, except under express sanction fi'om the Superuitendent of Fisheries ibr Lower Canada. K. — Hereafter no slabs or edgings or other mill rubbish, shall be drifted awaste, or be suffered to drift awaste, into any salmon and sea-trout rivers or streams in Lower Canada. L. — For any breach of the foregoing regulations, the penalty attached shall be as declared in the 42nd section of the statute 22nd Vict. cap. 86. The publication of the present by-laws, in both the French and Enghsh languages, in the Official Gazette, shall be sufficient notice to give legal effect. P. M. Vankoughnet, Commissioner. Crown Lands Department, Toronto, lith Jamiary, 1859. The Superintendent of Fisheries for Lower Canada is em- powered to grant Season Ljcences, covering a period from 1st May to 30th July, in each year, for the exclusive occupation of inferior coast fishing stations, for salmon and sea-trout, on Crown 350 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. properties situate upon the Eiver St. Lawrence and its tribu- taries, in Lower Canada, at discretionary rentals. All persons desirous of obtaining licences should make applica- tion to the superintendent at Quebec, describing the locality and the extent of fishery limit required, also the rent oifered for the use of such j)rivileges thereupon. P. M. Vankoughnet, Commissioner. LONDON PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO- NEW-STREET SQUARE. Illustratfir Morhs w COLONEL SIR J. E. ALEXANDER, K.C.L.S. TRAYELS from INDIA to ENGLAND, by way of BTJRMAH, J- PERSIA, TURKEY, &c, : with Sketche9 of the Fh-st War in Burmah, and of the War in Persia with Russia, whilst attached to the British Mission in Persia. 1 vol. 4to. . . II SHIG-UEF NAMAH-I-YELAET ; or, interesting Intelligence concerning Europe : heins the Travels of Mirza Itesa Modeen, Agent from the Great Mofjul. Trans- lated into Hindustanee and English from the original Perdian Manuscript. 1 vol. 8'vo. Ill TRAVELS to the SEAT of WAR in the EAST, through RUSSIA and -L the CRIMEA, in 1S29 : with Sketches of the Imperial Fleet, and of the Army in Turkey. 2 vols. 8vo, TRANSATLANTIC SKETCHES of REMARKABLE SCENES and i ADVENTURES in NORTH and SOUTH AMERICA, and the WEST INDIES. 2 vela. 8vo. V CKETCHES in PORTUGAL during the CIYIL WAR of 1834 t^ Ivol. 8vo. VI MILITARY EXERCISES and TUITION. 1 vol. 8vo. VII YOYAGE ROUND the WEST COAST, and a VISIT to the V COLONIES of AFRICA : with a Campaign in CafFerland, on the Staff of the Commander- in-Chief. 2 vols. Svo. A N EXPEDITION of DISCOVERY into the INTERIOR of AERICA, -^ through the COUNTRIES of the GREAT NAMAQUAS, BOsCHMANS, and HILL DAMARAS: under the Auspices of the Government, and the Royal Geograpliical Society of London. 2 vols. Svo, IX A LIFE of FIELD-MARSHAL the DUKE of WELLINGTON, •^ E.G., G.C.B. Edited, with Portraits. 2 vols. Svo. X L'ACADIE ; or, Seven Years' Explorations in North America : including a Survey for a Military Road from Halifax to Quebec, for the Board of Ordnance. 2 vols. 8vo, CANADA AS IT WAS, IS, AND MAY BE. Edited. 2 vols. Svo. XII PASSAGES in the LIFE of a SOLDIER ; including Services at the Siege of Sebastopol. 2 vols. Svo. XIII MILITARY EXAMINATION for JUNIOR OFFICERS of IN- ■^ FANTRY; or, 6(i0 Questions and Answers on DriH, Discipline, Interior Economy, Field Fortification, Reconnoitering, &c. 1 vol. Svo. XIV SALMON FISHING in CANADA. Edited, with lUustrations. 1 vol, *^ 8vo. NEW WORKS] IN GENERAL LITERATURE PUBLISHED BY LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 39 Paternoster Row, London. CLASSIFIED INDEX Agriculture and Rural Affairs. Bavldon on Valuing Rents, Sec Cecil-B Stud Farm . Hoskyns's Talpa . Loudon'9 Agriculture Mortoa on Landed Egtates " {J. C.) Handbook of Dairy Hus bandry Arts, Manufactures, and Archi- tecture. Biande's Dictionary of Science, &c. " Organic Chemistry . CreEy'3 Civil EneineerinE Fairbairn's Information for Engineers . " on Mills and Millwork . Falkener's D^dalus " Museum of Classical AntiquitieB Gcodeve's Elements of Mechanism Gwilt'B Encjclopadia of Architecture Harford'B Plates from M. Angelo . HximphTcys'e Parables Illuminated Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art " Common place- Bo ok Kiinig'B Pictorial Life of Luther . Loudon's Rural Architecture , Love's Art of Dyeing .... Loivndes'H Engineera' Handbook . MacDougall's Campaigns of Hannibal . " Theory of War Moseley's Engineering . Piesse'B Art of Perfumery " Laboratory of Cliemical Wonders ] Richardson's Art of [loreemanship ScofTern on Projectiles, &c. . Steam Enpine.by the Artisan Club Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . Biography. Arago'B Lives of Scientific Men Baillia'B Memoir of Bate Brialmont'B Wellington . Bunaen's Hippolytus Bunting'3(Dr.) Life . . Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials Green's Princesses of England Harford'a Life of Michael Angeio Lardner's Cabinet Cjclopffidia Marshman's Life of Carer, Maral. and IVard .... " Life of HaTclock Maundcr's Biographical Troasury Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs . Palleake's Life of Schiller Parry's (Admiral) MemoirB . Peel's Sketch of Sir R. Peel's Life and Character Pi07'zi's Autobiography and Letters Russell's Memoirs of Moore . " (Dr.) Life of Meizofanti . SchimmelPenninck'o (Mrs.) Life . Shee'a Life of Sir M. A. Shee Soutliey's Life of Wesley Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography Strickland's Queens of England Sydney Smith's Memoirs W aterton's Autobiography and Essays . Books of General Utility. Acton's Cookery-Book Black's Treatise on Brewing . Cabinet Gazetteer . . . , " Lawyer .... Cust'fl Invalia's Own Book Hensraan's Handbook of the Constitution Hints on Etiquette .... Hudson's Executor's Guide . " on Making Wills Hunter's Art of Writing Precis . Kesteven's Domestic Medicine Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopiedia Loudon's Lady's Country Companion Maunder's Treasury of knowledge " Biographical Treasury " Geographical Treasury " Scientific Treasury " Treasury of History " Natural History Piesse'B Art of Perfumery Pitt's How to Brew Good Beer Pocket and the Stud Pycroft's English Reading Richardson's Art of Horsei Riddle'a Latin Dictionaries Roget's English Thesaurua Rowton'B Debater . Short Whist Simpson'B Handbook of Dii ,^ Sleigh's Personal Wrongs and Legal Remedies . ThomBon's Intircst Tabl«a Walford'fl Handybook of the Ciril Serrice Webster's Domegtic Economy West's How to Nurse Sick Children Willich-B Popular Tables Wilmot'a Dlack*tone CLAsarriED index to catalogtje. Botany and Gardening. Hassall's British Freshn-ater Alga Hooker'6 British Flora , " Guide to Kew Gardens . Lin'lley'3 Introduction to Botany . " Synopsis of the British Flora " Theory of Horticulture . Louilon's ITortus Britannicus Am:it^u7 G.irdener . Tr-^HSiind Shrubs . Pla^U , Pereira's Mar.eria Mcdica Kivers's Kiise Amateur's Guide Wilson's British Mosses . ChronologT-. istorical Atlas ... 6 Bunsen's Ancient E<;vpt ... 7 Haydn's Beat?on'sIiid.-x . . .ID Jai]uemct's Abridf^ed ChronolO|^y . . 12 Commerce and Mercantile Affairs. Gilbarfs Lopic of Banking ... 9 LorinnT's Toung Master Slarincr . . 13 JIM lulliich's Commerce and Nayigation 15 Thomson's Intereet Tables . . .22 Tooke's History of Prices . . .22 Criticism, History, and Memoirs. Br.Mver's Historical Alias . . . C BuDj-t-n's Ancicnt Epvpt .... 7 " IJipfiol) tus .... 7 Burke's Vicissitudes of Families , . 7 Chapman's Guf-tavus Adnlphus . . 8 Ch-UL'li's Grntk History from Plutarch S C'lm.lh's '^a|i|ii'rs and Miners . . 8 C.^nvl" arc and Howson's St. Paul . . 8 Cr.iivr'^ History of Frr.nce ... 8 Frazer's L--ltt-r8 durina the Peninsular and Waterloo Campaiijns ... 9 Gurnev's Historical Sketches . . . 10 Hayiyard's Essays 11 Hensman's Handboolv of the Constitution U Hersthel's Essays and Addresses . .11 Jefrre\'s (Lord/Contributions . . ]■; Kimble's An clo- Seasons . . .13 Lardncr'B Cabinet Cjclopffidia . . 1:} Latham'sWorks on the Enplish Limj^uage 13 Lowe's Ciimpai^ns in Central India . 14 Jlaeaulay's Critical and Hist.Essajs . U " History of Encland . . 14 " Miscellaneous ■^V^iting8 . 14 " Speeches . . . .11 Mackintosh's Miscell.ineous Works . 15 History of England . . 15 ^I'Cttllocli's Geographical Dictionary , 15 Miiunder's Treasury of History . .16 Meriyiile's History of Rome . . .If, •' Roman Republic . . .16 Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. . .16 Jfure'K Greek Literature . . . .17 Palleske's Life and "Works of Scliitler . 18 Pioz/i's Autobiography .and Letters . iw Porter's Kniyhts of Malta ... 18 Raikcs's Journal : . . ,19 Rii h's Roman and Greek Antiquities . Ifl Kiddie's r,atin Dictionaries . . .IS Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review . IS " (Sam.) Recollections . . l!i Roget s English Thesaurus , . . U SchimmtlPenninck's Memoirs of Port- Royal C '■ Principles of Beauty 2 Schmitz's History of Greece . Southey's Doctor .... Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography " Lectures on French Historv . Sydney Smith's Works . '' Lectures *' Memoirs Thirlwall's History of Greece . Turner's An2-!o-Saions . White and Riddle's Latin Dictionary Whiteside's Italy .... Wiltins's PoUtical Ballads . Wilmot's Brougham's Law Reforms Geography and Atlases. Brewer's Historical Atlas Butler's Geography and Atlases Cabinet Gazetteer . Johnston's General Gazetteer M'Culh.ch's Geographical Dictionary Maunder's Treasury of Geography Murray's Encyclopiedia of Geography Sharp's Britisli Gazetteer . . ,20 Juvenile Books. Amy Herbert ,20 Cleye Hall 20 Earl's Daughter (The) .... 20 Ex|jcrience of Life 20 Gertrude 20 Howitt's Boy's Country Book . . 12 (Mary) Children's Tear . . 11 lyors 20 Katharine Ashton 20 Laneton Parsonage .... 20 Margaret Ptrcival 20 Piesse'9 Chymical, Natural, iind Phy- sical Mag'ic 18 " Laboratory of Chymical Wonders 18 Prcroft'a Collegian's Guide . . .19 Medicine, Surgery, &c. Erodie's Psychological Inquiries BuU's Hints to Mothers . *' I\Ii\nngement of Children Copland's Dictionary of Medicine . Cust's Invalid's Own Book Holland's Mental Physiology . " Medical Notes and Reflections Kesteven's Domestic Medicine Pereira's Materia Medica Spencer's Principles of Psychology Todd's CvclopfDdia of AnatoniT and PlusiohigY . . . . ■ . West on Chi!. Iren's Diseases . Nursing Sick Children . Miscellaneous Literature. Bacon's (Lord) Works Boase's Philosopliy of Nature Bray on Education of tlie Feelings Defence of Ellipse of Faith . Eclipse of Faith Greyson's Select Correspondence Guinev's ETening Recreations Hassall's Adulterations Detected, Haydn's Book of Dignities Holland's Mental Physiology CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE. Hooker's Kew Guide Hoiv.ird's Gvmnnstic Exercises Howitt's Rural Life of England " Visits to Rtmarkablo Places Jameson's Commonpl. ice- Book Jeffreys (Lord) EsBiiys . Macaul.iy's Critical and Hist- EasajB " Speeches Mackintosh's Miscellaneous 'Worlis Martineau's Miscell;inies Newman on L'niversitv Education " Uffice & Work of Univ-rsities '■' 's Lectures and Essays Pycroft's English ReadimK . Rich's DiotionarT of Ajitiquities . RiJillc's Latin Dictionaries . Eon-ton's Debater .... Sii Roger De C'overley . SmiUrs (Rev. Sydney) Works Southey's Doctor, &c, Spencer's Essays .... Stephen's Essavs .... Stow's Training Svslem . Thomson's Laws of Thought Trevelyan on the Native Languages Of India "White & Riddle's Latin Dictionary Wit and Wisdom of Sydney Smith Tonge's Enehsh-Greek Lexicon . " Latin Gradus Zumpt's Latin Grammar . Natural History in general. AgassLZ on Chissification Callow's Popular Concliology Ephemera's Book of the Salmon , Garratt's Mar\els of Instinct . Gopse's Natural History of Jamaica Hartwlg's Sea and itfi l^iving Wonders Kirby and Spence's Entomolosy . Lee's Elements of Natural History Maunder'8 Natural History . Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist Stonetienge on the Dng . Turton's Sb«-n3 of th« British Islands Watf rton'e Essays on Katflral History Touatt's The Dog " The Hors€ One- Volume Encyclopaedias and DictionarieB. Bhiine's Rural Sports .... 6 Brande's .■'citnce, Literature, and Art . 6 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine . 8 Cresy'B Civil Engineering , . . S Gwilt's Archittcture .... 10 Johnston's Geosr.iphieal Dictionary . 13 Loudon's AgricultuiH , . . .11 Rural Architecture . . 14 " Gardening . . , .13 " Plants 14 " Trees and Shrubs . . . 13 M'CuIloch's Geographical Dictionary , 15 Dictionary of Commerce Murray's Encvclnp^edia ol Geography . Sharp's Britisli Ga/.elteer Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. , Webster's Domestic Economy Religious and Moral "Works. Afternoon of Life Amy Herbert .... Bloomfifeld's Greek Testament Bloomfield's Supplementary Annota- tions on the Greek Testament Bray on Educiition of the Feelings Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progresa Culvert's Wife's Mannal . Catz and Farlie's Moral Emblems Cleve Hall Conybe.ire and Howson's St. Paul Cotton's Instructions in Chrifitianity Dale's Domestic Liturgy Defnace of Eclipse of JFaiih Earl's Daughter (The) . Eclipse of Faith .... Esperience (The) of Life Gertrude Hoare on the Veracity of Genesis . Home's Introduction to Scriptures " Abridgment of ditfo Humphrevs's faralden Illuminated Ivors, by the Author oi Amy Herbert Jameson's Saiuts and Hartyra " Monastic Legwnda " Legends of the Madonna " on Female Employment . Jeremy Taylor's Works . Katlidfine Ashton .... Kbiiig's Pictorial Life of Luther . Laneton Parsonage .... Lyra Germanica .... Maguiie'6 Rome .... Margaret Percival .... Marshman's Sirampore Mission . Martineau's Christian Life " Hymns " Studies of Christianity Merivale's Christian Records Moore on tlie Use of the Body " " Soul a.ni Body " 's Man and his Motives Morning Clouds .... RIoseley's Aslro-Theology Neale's Closing Scene Powell's Christianity without Judaiem . „ Order of Nature Realings for Lent .... " Confirmation Riddle's Household Pra.yers . , Robinson's Lexicon to Uie Greek Teii- tament , . .... SchimmelPenninck's Sacred Musings . Self- Examination for Confirmation Scwell's History of the EaHy Church . " Passing Thoughts on Heligion Smith's {Sv'tney) Moral Philosophy " (G.) Weslev.in Methudisra " (J^ Shipwreck of St Paul Southey's Life of Wesley Spitta's Lyra Dumestica Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography Theologia Germanica Thumb Bible (The) Poetry and the Drama, Calvert's Wife's Manual . Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated L. E. L.'s Poetical Works Linwood'N Anthologia Uxoniansis Lyra Germanica .... Macaulaj's Lays of Ancient Rome MacDonald's Within and Without " Poems Montgomery's Poetical Works CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE. Moore's Poetical "WorVs . " Iri.h Melodies . " National Melodies " Sacii'd SongH (u-i'/i STusic) " Sonn3 ami Ballad Poivei's ■\"ircinia'a Hind Shakspeaie, by Boivdler . SoutheVs Poetical Works Spitta's L\r,i Domestica . 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Anatomy 17 Pereira on Polarised Light PesLhel's Elements of I'hyaica Phiilips's Mineralogy " Guide to Geology , Piesfie's L.ihoratory of Chymical "Wonder Po^Tell's L.uity of Worlds " Christianity without Judaiam " Order of Nature lUnisav'-- Glacitrs of North W^les : Swit^.erUud .... Smce'J Electro-Metallurgy . Steam-Engine, by the Artisan Club Tate on Strength of Materials Twiadi^n's Examph-B in Mechanics T\"ebb'<, Celestial ObjecU for Common Telescopes Eural Sports. Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon Bla-ine'e Dictionary of Sports . Cecil's Stable Practice . " Stud Farm . Dead Shot (The) Ephemera on Angling . " Book of the Salmon Freeman and Salvin's Falconry Hamilton's Reminiscences of Sportsman . Hawker's Young Sportsman Howard's Atliletic Exercises Thft Hunting-Field . Mlf's Hints on Shooting Pocket and tlie Stud Practical Horsemanship . Pjcroffs Cricket-Field . Richardson's Horsemanship . Ronalds's Fly-Fisher'a Entomology Salmon Fishine in Canada Suble Talk and Table Talk . Stoneheiige on the Dog " " Greyhound The Stud, for Practical Purposes . Veterinary Medicine, &c. Cecil's Stable Practica " Stud Farm Hunting-Field (The) Miles's Horse-Shoeing " on the Horse's Fool Pocket and the Stud Practical Horsemanship Richardson's Horsemanshi Stable Talk and Table Tal Stonehenge on the Dog . Stud (The) Youatt's The Dog . '■ T)ie Horse Voyages and Travels. Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon Earth's African Travels . Burton's East Africa " Lake Regions of Central Afric; " Medina and Mecca Domenech's Deserts of North America " Texas and Mexico Forester's Sardinia and Corsica Hill's Peru and Mexico . HinchlifPs Travels in the Alps Hind's Nortli American Exploring Ex- peditions Howitt's Victoria .... 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