CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM cornel. Unlversrty Ubrary 'fTS 032 193 652 olin.anx _^__ sVl X^ Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924032193652 o o _l > UJ EC o Picturesque Berkshire PART l-NORTH Complete in Two Parts, with 1200 Illustrations PICTURESQUE PUBLISHING COMPANY NORTHAMPTON, MASS. THEE MT F. jPlDjOlIXCS GOnvEP=jPL]Srir SPRINGFIELD, MASS. I. , Picturesque Berkshire Published by the Picturesque Publishing Co., Northampton, Mass. CHARLES F. WARNER, Editor and Manager. This work is published in two parts, showing north and south sections of the county. Uniform with previously issued volumes of the " Picturesque" series. Price, Family Edition, in one volume. Cloth, $4 ; each part separately bound, $2 each. Holiday Edition , both parts, $6. The book will be sent, post or express paid, on receipt of check or money order. Address THE W. F. ADAMS COMPANY, Old Corner Bookstore, Springfield, Mass /^yf;L(c^JJ Other Publications of the Picturesque Publishing Company Northampton, Mass. Comprising the four western counties in Massachusetts (with Berkshire as above) as follows : Picturesque Hampshire. In one volume, uniform in style with Picturesque Berkshire. Cloth, $2. Picturesque Franklin. In one volume, uniform with the above named. Cloth. $2. Picturesque Hampden. In two parts, showing east and west sides of the county. Family Edition, in one volume, Cloth, $4 ; in separate parts, also Cloth, $2. Uniform with the series. Any of the above named publications will be sent on receipt of price named, in the iorm of a check or postal note. Address THE W. F. ADAMS COMPANY, Old Corner Bookstore, Springfield, Mass. IN PREPARATION: ' Picturesque Worcester," Detroit," ' ' Picturesque Catskills," " Picturesque Picturesque Boston." NT^oJUcTo The hills throw a spell ovei- their ciiildren which is never dissolved. To one born and reared where moun- tain summits kiss the clouds, and mountain streams make ceaseless music, no spot on earth can ever be so dear as his " native heath." He may wander in other lands and under other summer skies, but he finds no attractions potent enough to break the attachment he feels for the hills amid which he first drew breath. The natives of " the hijl country," anywhere on ^ the face of the globe, have shown the same fond af- fection for their first and early home.. In those who have gone forth from the mountains of Switzer- land this passion is almost uncontrollable. Indeed, it can hardly be stirred to its depths without the peril of ^ii^^^_^^ AN OLD CEAIETEEY a tragic fate: — " The intrepid Swiss, who treads a foreign shore, Condemned to climb his native heaths no more, If chance he hears the song so sweetly wild, Which on those cliffs his infant hours beguiled. Faints at the long-lost scenes that round him rise, And sinks a martyr to repentant sighs." The natives of the Berkshire hills feel this emotion as sincerely, if not as pas- sionately, as though it had been kindled among the Alps. It was nourished by the same fountains, and inspired at the „same shrine. For, Nature reveals herself the dweller in the mountains, in ways unKaown to the natives of the plains. The^ried and entrancing view from the hilltop; the mysteries of the deep lying valley; th^parkling foam and gladsome notes of theWscade, as it dashes down the hillside; fte clouds at play, making ever-changing p^tures of field and forest ; the indescribable gorgeousness of the sun- sets—these delights, which are forever denied to the dwellers on low and level lands, are the sources of pure and noble impulse ; and at these the imagination is set aflame, glowing with the love of our native home. With whatever advantages Nature has endeared the western prairies and plains, which are not enjoyed here, we do not regret them; our hills are so affluent in all that tends to develop the truest manhood, that we can at least afford to be generous. For, from the Revolu- tionary period till now, Berkshire has been the home of a stalwart race, distinguished for the imaginative force which the highlands generate, and for a spirit of manly independence and undying love of liberty. Picturesque Berkshire is designed to minister to the best sentiment of the people for whom it has been prepared. It is the purpose of Art to translate into its own forms of expression the language in which Nature speaks in its most striking scenes. The face that is dear to ijs, and on which we have looked lov- ingly for years, speaks to us in ideal sweetntss and beauty from the accurate . ^ lines of the photograph. So that majestic hilltop, which has become so familiar to our gaze, to ^_ which our eyes have wandered so often as the first flash of the morning sun turns its brown sum- mit to burnished gold, will beam with more love- liness and grandeur when the artist has reproduced it on the pictured page. Thus in this book one familiar and much-loved scene, at least, will be embalmed for the delight of each of Berkshire's sons and daughters. But more than this, in the light of these pages, these sons and daughters may explore the entire ex- tent of the county. For, starting from their homes in whatever direction they will, within these limits, scenes of which theythave heard but never seen, as well as those which have been hidden from their thoughts till now, will be brought home to them by the artist's skill. and they may discern the actual in the ideal pictui-e. How else could they learn to know so well all the most salient and beautiful features of the land they love so well, as by poring over these pages, where all that is mflst picturesque and impressive is spread out before them, as in a vivid map, from the eastern boundary of WIMTEK WOOttS A GLEN IN sriuua the county to the New York line, and from Greylock to " the Dome ? " And info this beloved Berkshire, which Nature has so lavishly endowed, Industry, in its varied forms, and Art, with its mar- velous revelations, have come to combine their triumph with hers. To the music of the streams has been added the music of the mill wheel ; and while, in his happy home, the lonely farmer may exult in the harvest produced by his toil, the groups of skilled and contented workers in the factories are daily adding to the treasures of production for which we are indebted PICTURESQUE, BERKSHIRE to that image of divine energy, the creative force of Labor. So Art, also, has found a lodg- ment in these hills —Art, not alone in the wonders of the pencil, the brush and the chisel, but in more splendid and artistic forms of life. From the scorching heats of the great city, from the mansions where Wealth has set up its house- hold gods, and where Fashion wears her most attractive guise, come the groups that find, in these our mansions fresh from Nature's hand, the delights which even the wealthy city denies them. Let Nature and Art go hand in hand, as becomes them, in inevitable and happy union; but let it be remembered, to the glory of the first, that what industry and afflu- ence cannot find in the intermin- fiood of 1874, where the ravines show traces of the disaster to this day. Noon found us taking a quiet lunch in a sheep pasture beside a sparkling spring of water at the foot of Goshen hills. The after- noon did not seem so cheerful, as snow banks began to appear, and we dismounted to plod behind, and allow the poor horse to zig-zag around the mudholes on up the long hillsides. It was some com- pensation, however, to turn and see the blue haze of Holyoke range rising up through the bare brown woods, and the flash of silver from the Connecticut river. Soon the roadway cut through a high snowdrift, and the little church of Goshen appeared through the rift. The village straggled over the hill summit, and the trees seemed to bend their backs to the north wind, and send out tops and branches entirely toward the southern sun. Across the divide we turned to the west and commenced the descent into Cum- mington. The road ran beside brooks rushing in a new direction, sometimes coming from a hill above, or roaring through a rocky gorge a hundred feet below us. The forests became sombre with tall pines, and ghostly with the dead leaves of giant beeches. Soon the clear waters of our rushing brooks mingled with the muddy stream of the Westfield coming from higher western hills. Through Cummington we came into the shadow of Deer Hill, the sunset gleam- ing through the budding trees, lighting up the smoke and steam of factories and sending fantastic pictures across snow-speckled mountain sides. On through washed- Or.D-TIME PITT5FIELD rilTSiUKLD STATION able avenues that intersect the city, in the vast warehouses and palatial residences they have built, or in their magnificent temples of pleasure, they rejoice to discover amid these hills — the celestial ichor of the pure breath of heaven, the vigor born of closer contact with Mother Earth, the returning bloom of the faded cheek, the new light flashing in the wearied eye, the glories of the cloud and sunshine, the inspiration caught from the voices of the mountains, the forest and the stream. Thus Nature and Art, united in happy harmony, are making of Berkshire one of the bright garden spots of the land. These are some hints of the message which these picturesque pages will carry to the homes and workshops of Berkshire ; and much more might be said, only that the panorama before us has more eloquent expression than pen can give. When this book shall reach the hand of some far-off native of Berkshire, in a distant city, or in western wilds, it will, we trust, kindle memories as ardent as rise before the Swit- zer, when he listens, in a foreign land, to the Rans des Vaches ; but these memories, instead of overpoweringhim in a fatal swoon, will quicken all the nobler instincts and im- pulses which they were treasured to inspire. TliE KAILKOAD TEACKS FROM THE SOUTH STREET CROSSIKG prjror^^j^ A GREYLOCK PILGRIMAGE Started out on a fine spring morning from Northampton, with a companion who took all the care, and a quiet horse at the end of a buckboard, to interview the famous Greylock mountain of Berkshire county. The snow had disappeared from the valleys, and we stirred up considerable dust as we jogged along through Florence and Leeds, the sun warming us up so that we felt quite disposed for a lark. On through Williamsburg, over the track of the terrible mr VIEW OK THE NOKTH SIDE OF WEST STREET out glens in the gathering twilight to a farmhouse in the edge of Windsor, to sleep in a bed near the rafters, and to waken in the morning by hearing the rain patter on the roof, as in childhood. On this morning we tried to see the famous "Windsor Jams," and found a narrow, rocky gorge filled with ice and snow, with a rushing stream underneath. The weather clearing, we followed the course of the Westfield river through the snow and mud, up into the hills of Savoy. Deserted homesteads became plentiful. Perhaps a turn in a rocky ravine revealed a bit of smooth grass and an old apple orchard. In its center was atumble-down ruin of a house and barn, desolate and forsaken. At Savoy Hollow the air became quite chill, as clouds obscured the sun, and the wind swept down off the snow-clad hills. The road became a quagmire as PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A PIOInEESQUE GLIMPSE AT THE CITY FKOM KEAH THE STATION our poor horse plodded on and on, getting higher and higher into the mountains. We were told that we could get a glimpse of Greylock from the highest point at Savoy Center. And sure enough, as we landed our horse over the last washout, and climbed the highest point in the village, we caught a glimpse of his crown just as the sun broke out for a moment before disappearing for the night. But we had yet to go to the northward, and in the gathering twilight pushed on up dotted with groves of evergreen and maple, while lakes and streams flashed in the sunlight. North Adams nestled in a ravine at the foot of the mountain, the smoke and steam from railway trains drifting across steeple and chimney, the blue and purple terraces rising majes- tically to the heavens, out of the noise and strife. To the southward toward Pittsfield the blue line of peaks move on and are lost in the distance, while northward the mountain is isolated from the main range by a ravine that leads to William stown and the west. In the afternoon the scene was indescribably grand from the hills north of North Adams. The groves with their long shadows, the road- way leading down into the city, all partly sinking into gloom, formed the support for a picture of the mountain and its crater-like summit, liathed in a glow from sun-lighted clouds above, opening just' enough for a glimpse of the blue sky beyond. It seemed a golden pathway leading up out of the city, through granite gateways, over fleecy, shining portals, directly into paradise ! Elbridge Kingsley. WHAT THE BOOK IS AND IS NOT It seems somewhat necessary, in a work of this kind, to show its reason for being, and what it is intended to accomplish. Thousands of people, doubtless, will take up this book, who have never seen the other books of the "Picturesque" series — or did not BLOCKS OS WliST STHEET ... £>^i^.> AN OUTLOOK FKOM THE PARK know there were any others — and it should therefore be stated that " Pictur- esque Hampshire," the first of these volumes, was issued in 1890, " Pictur- esque Franklin " in 1891, and " Picturesque Hampden" in 1892. This book was only needed to complete the series, as noted in another article, and this is the raison d'etre. The response of the people in each county to this unique line of work, into the Florida mountains, and stopped for the night within sight and hearing of the traflic through the Hoosac tunnel. The next morning was sharp and frosty, and the sky without a cloud. The road descended into deep ravines and wound up again in a bewildering fashion. After traveling two hours, through drifts as high as the horse's ears, a look across the gorges showed us our last night's stopping place in plain sight, only a short distance in a straight line behind us. Coming to a sharp turn of the road in a deep snow- drift, we were obliged to lift the horse and buckboard around to get through. Before noon we were at Florida church, its little steeple directly over the tunnel, and overlooking the Deerfield valley. And very interesting it was to watch the tiny, snorting worms emerge from the bowels of the earth, and move on down the valley beside the Deerfield river. Here we struck the old stage road, full of mud and snow, and telegraph poles. Up and down the hills we went. A little snow — then a little mud — till our horse, looking about, said: "Haven't we had about enough of this sort of thing?" We agreed that it was enough. And after one more pull through mud up to the hub, we emerged from the slough of despond out upon a plateau overlooking the valley surrounding Greylock. Dismounting and walking out upon a jutting point, there we were two thousand feet in the air, looking upon a mass of mountains rising over a thou- sand feet higher out of the plain below. Down in the valley, the surface was LOOKING TOWARD THl'] PARK PROM THE STATION 8 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lias been something unusual, considering the fact that the publishers were unacquainted with the art of scientific bookselling, and now that the sale of these books has been taken in hand by such experienced booksellers as the W. F. Adams Co., of the " Old Corner Bookstore," Springfield, Mass., the publishers feel that it will not be many years before every family in Western Massachusetts will have one or more books of the series. In time, it is be- lieved, too, that only the complete set will satisfy, for the series represents a large territory, in which all the inhabitants have more or less interest in com- mon; but this point is amplified upon elsewhere. Next it is in order to say what this book is, and this necessarily involves a further statement as to what it is not — in order to satisfy those who expect THE ATHEN^UM THE FIJKST COSGREGATIONAL CHURCH • not only multum in parvo, but much that is not worth while. It is quite evident what Picturesque Berk- SHiREis; asafirstthing — itisabook of pictures, and plenty of them. The term "profusely illustrated," was, it is believed, never applied to any work so justly as it may be to this, and when it is stated, as is the truth, that every engraving used in this book was made expressly for it, a better idea may be had of the value of this feature. Let the subscriber for this book imagine, if he can, what it would cost him to travel and make the collection of pictures given in this book, some of which, however, he could not collect by any amount of traveling. Certainly the same ex- tent of territory has never been so elaborately pictured before. Every town in the county has been represented by a variety of characteristic and attractive views. Everything will not be found here, for of subjects of interest there is practically no end, and the apology for things absent is lack of space, not neglect. To any who live, or have lived, in the Berkshire hills, the book must have a special attractiveness. With few exceptions, not only the most secluded glens and rockiest hilltops, but the churches and public buildings in every town have a place. The pic- tures show great variety. There are the high mountains, the meadows, the streams, the orchards, farmhouses, the farmers at their work, the children at their play, and the bits of roadway, as well as the cultivated landscapes and elegant residences at the summer resorts. In studying the picturesque side of human nature the artist carries us from tlie group about the country tavern fire to the crowded grounds of the country "cattle show," and shows us many of those touches of nature which make the whole world kin. This is what the book is — a pictured representation of life all over Berkshire, and to make this faithfully — to do this one thing well — obliged the pub- lishers to discriminate carefully in the work of compilation, and this requires a state- ment qI what the book is not. Picturesque Berkshire is not an historical work, for the very good reason that we have stiready hinted at — that it is' not possible to do everything at once well, and tfien Berkshire ,htstory has been pretty well handled already. While the book is not historical, ths picturesque past is linked with the present time by the narration of old stories and notations upon old customs relating to pictures of objects yet in existence. In the main the book is made up, in text and illustration, of such things as a leisurely traveler of an appreciative turn of mind would find interesting and attractive. He do:s not delve deeply into the musty records of the past, or attempt to unravel its tangled skeins. A monument may take his attention, or an old house suggest a question, and thus bring out a bit of tragedy or romance; but nature and life right around one, with such reminiscences and reflections as these easily start, are the real substance of the work. This book is neither a gazetteer or guide-book, yet any one interested will readily get an impression of the nature of different parts of the county, and the work may be a sug- gestive aid to those planning a carriage trip, and a help in choosing a country home for the summer. It can be easily seen that the book is no advertising scheme, and the main aim has been kept distinctly in view all through — that being to show in the most attract- ive manner those features of Berk- shire county which give it charm and interest, and to do this at a popular price. Pictures which once could only have been the possessions of the rich may now add to the attractive- ness of the humblest home, and it has been the earnest effort of the publishers to place an art work within the reach of all. NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN IN BERKSHIRE WINTER VIEW OF THE I'ARK Berkshire, more than any other county in Western Massachusetts, seems to have been prolific as a field of action, of a great number of men and women of note. As Clark W. Bryan shows elsewhere, the county bid fair at one time to become the country-seat, if not the general dwelling place of many of the literati of the land; and while the ST. STErHEN'S — METHODIHT CHURCH IN DISTANCE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE play of Hamlet with Hamlet left out, if portraits were not given of Messrs. Tinker and Foster, those famous characters in an active, but bygone political age, and while it is not the province of this book to discuss politics, it may be said that these gentle- men's successors in their line of action will probably never appear on this terrestrial stage. As the day of the tythingman has gone, so also has that of the political master .i!f%r"^ fr. . . ,,^__ . . __. ... -:- ■■%^. .. . I CORNER EAST AND SOUTH STREETS " Picturesque" books have, heretofore, not been at all noted for portrait work, it is found absolutely necessary to use a considerable number of portraits in this volume, that the county may be given credit for what it has furnished in the way of famous and picturesque personal, human character, as well as magnificent scenery, and cultivated landscapes. The limits of this book forbid extended mention of the subjects of our portraits, and inasmuch as this is not a biographical work, it will probably not be expected that we should give an extended, or even any perfunctory account of the lives of the notable men and women whose por- traits are given in succeeding pages. The records of such characters as William CuUen Bryant, Longfellow, Hawthorne, Beecher, Melville, Jonathan Edwards, Mark Hopkins, Rev. John Todd, Gov. Briggs, Cyrus W. Field, Charlotte Cushman, Fanny Kemble Butler, Catherine Sedgwick, and others are well known to all, and their identification with the interests of the Berk- shire hills is alluded to in Mr. Bryan's and other articles. For similar reasons it is not deemed neces- sary to give a biographical account of other subjects of portraits, such as Elder Leland, , " Josh Billings," Edward R. Tinker and Edward Foster, and "Weather- Prophet Beebe." With the exception of the latter picturesque Bear Mountain character, ex-Senator Dawes, aiid those once very noted politicians, Messrs. Tinker and Foster, the above named subjects of por- traiture have joined the " silent majority; " and who of the present generation needs to be told of the ex- tended general service which the incorruptible Berk- shire sfatesma:n' has performed for his time, and for all time, and humanity, in his study of the Indian question— and how, despite the proverb, he is a prophet whom his own country delights to honor ? The management of this book were advised that a book devoted to northern Berkshire would be like the PUBLIC BUILDINGS NORTH OF THE PARK and "legislative manager." In the names we have given of their representatives, Berkshire has furnished the very best men of their class, and they will, doubt- less not rebel at the slight touch of humor involved in linking them with a very picturesque political past. The discriminating and perspicacious reader will readily see, it is believed, why the subjects of portraiture are not treated of in the text specifically. It is certain that no county in the " Old Bay State" can make a more honorable and interesting showing, in the way of a portrait gallery of the good and great who have honored its hills and valleys as their abiding places, and who have also written poeiii 'and prose in praise of their surroundings. PICTURESQUE WESTERN MASSACHU- SETTS COMPLETE REV. JOHN TODD, D. D. With the issue of Picturesque Berkshire the publishers have completed their representation of Western Massachusetts, or all that part of the state lying west of Worcester county. , The counties of Hampshire, Franklin and Hampden have, as is pretty generally known, been presented in their order, in four volumes, and any public-spirited inhabitant of these shires, who has one or more of these books,, will BUSINESS BLOCKS ON KOBTH STK?ET HOKTHIiSTKEET, EKOM IHE.l'AKK 10 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE library. For children it will be an invaluable educator regarding that part of the country they live in; the pictures will not only please but instruct, and exert a refining influence in the home. Who can estimate the interest these books will possess to the absent sons of this part of the state who are wander- ing in the far west? No gift will be so prized by them as one or more of iliese volumes ; it will come to some of them, at least, like a beatific vision, 5.^%. A NORTH STREET VIEW some day want them all. No other such area in the Bay state is so fair to the eye, and so celebrated in song and story, and its inhabitants should consider the complete " Picturesque " series of books a possession of as much value to their households as the dictionary and gazetteer. This is claimed not from the mere advertis- . ^ ing instinct of a publisher, but be- cause it is believed that these books .are a valuable complement to those other now conceded-to-be family necessities. Then again, every lover of his country ought to possess such a comprehensive memorial of her as these books constitute. For, surely, if they did not appeal to patriotic pride, we might well ask, in those well-known lines : — " Breathes there a man with soul so dead, Who never to himself hath said, ' This is my own, my native land ! ' " It should not be forgotten that the Western Massachusetts series gives a representation of the old county of Hampshire, which originally com- prised the present counties of Hamp- shire, Franklin, Hampden and Berk- shire, and when one reflects that nothing in any way approaching to such a pictured representation of this region has been given before, or been possible to make, at any price, it will not seem extravagant in the publishers to claim that they have furnished, in the now complete series, something which every family in Western Massachusetts should be proud to place in the home UNITARIAN CHURCH amid the wearisomeness and frequent repinings of exile. When one reflects that in the four volumes comprising the Western Massachusetts series there are over three thousand five hundred illustra- tions, embodying the study and appli- cation of many trained artists and writers for over five years, and that exactly the same work can never be duplicated, it will not be deemed out of place to here enforce the impor- tance of securing the series of these books complete, while it can be had. Those desiring further information on tliis point are referred to the ad- vertisement on the back of the title- page of this book. Berkshire men are noted for their local pride. A well-known poli- tician was a member of a state con- NORTH STREET — LOOKING SOUTH, VIAPLEWOOU Bl-Il.DINCS THE OLD FIRST CHUKCH vention at Worcester, and being asked by the chairman, who, strange to say, failed to recognize him, to give his name, replied, " Mr. Emerson, Sir, from the grand old hills of Berkshire." PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE II ness and variety. Our hills boast no astounding grandeur; there is nothing about them of an Alpine character ; they possess few scenes which can properly rank with the sublime. The highest mountain tops, the most precipitous cliffs — sufficient to claim our admiration, wild enough to be the marvel of tourists from the tame coast country — cannot for a moment compare with similar scenes among the White moun- X> K£KKSUIK£ OUIMT HUME FOR AU£U WOMEN A PEN DESCRIPTION OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS Probably the best printed description of the Berkshire hills ever given was that written many years ago by " Godfrey Grcylock," author of " Taghconic, or Letters and Legends about our Summer Home." The book is a familiar one to Berkshire people, but for the instruction and pleasure of many out of the county, who have not seen it, we quote : KOKTH STKEET — THE BArXJST CHLKCH A>D VICISITY tains or the Alleghanies — not to mention more unapproachable wonders of nature. Our deepest ravines, often penetrated by smooth, flower-bordered roads, are very different things indeed, from the earthquake-rifted chasm of other lands. If the traveler seek some object for a day's or a week's won- der, some tremendous cataract, or "Heaven-piercing Cordillera," SOUTH STKEET COURT-HOUSE "Berkshire is a region of hills and valleys, of lake and stream, of woodland, farm and field. Its beauty is world renowned, for the pens of Bryant and Mrs. Sedgwick [and since their time many others. — Ed.1 have made it their favorite theme. Within its limits are Monument mountain, the Stockbridge Bowl, Green River, Icy Glen, and a thou- sand other scenes of storied or of unsung loveliness. * * * "Within this mountain- walled amphitheatre lies cradled the upland valley of the Housatonic, witli all its fertile farms, its mansioned homes and frequent villages. Some- body has called it the Piedmont of America. I do not know how just the appellation may be, but I do know that if Piedmont can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a delightful region. " What we most admire in Berk- shire scenery is its freshness, bold- THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH he must seek it elsewhere. But if he asks for a retreat among wild and picturesque scenery, adorned by much that is pleasant and refined in his city life, but far removed from its heat and turmoil; where he can draw closer the silken cord of social intercourse, and yet throw loose some of its galling chains ; where nature ennobles by her greatness, but liever chills with a frown, he may find it all amid the varied beauty of the Berk- shire hills. " The inexhaustible variety of our vistas is wonderful. It is marvelous in what an endless series of com- binations, mountain, valley, lake, stream, rock, field and wood present themselves. Wherever you go, you meet a succession of changes which at once charm the eye and delight the heart. At every turn " You stand suddenly astonished, You are gladdened unaware." 12 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE SOME FACTS ABOUT BERKSHIRE COUNTY T The management of this work had believed their series to be complete on chronologi- cal lines, when the three books, " Picturesque Hampshire," " Franklin " and " Hamp- den," were published, but farther historical research shows that Berkshire was set o£E from the old county of Hampshire as early as 1761, while Hampden and Franklin did not secure separate autonomy until 1812. Berkshire was thus set off by the " General BUglMESa OUTSKIRTS ON KOKTH STKEET A KOKTH STKEET SIDEWALK Court" of the old Province of Massachusetts Bay, in the first year of the reign of George! II, fifteen years before the Declaration of Independence of the colonies. The width of Berkshire on the north is fourteen miles, on the south twenty-four, and its length, the entire west boundary of the state, is fifty miles. This county is the most rough and hilly of the four western ones of the state, but there is a considerable quantity of fine land, mostly in the interval of the Housatonic, and no region of the state is so attractive as Berk- shire to the summer visit- ors from New York and other large places. Nearly every town in the county has a large quota of pleasure seekers, from June until late autumn, and the fame of this beautiful country is world wide and requir- ing more defini te descrip- tion elsewhere. It is the most elevated region in the state, and the familiar expression, WOCONAH STREET — LOOKING TOWARD THE MOUNTAINS "frohi the hills of Berkshire to the sands of Cape Cod," means something of a descent. The Green and Taconic mountains cross the county from north to south, and their average height is about 1,200 feet above the level of the sea, while Mountains Gteylock and Everett, in the north and south parts of the county, are from two to three times higher. BISHOP TRAINING SCHOOL FOR NURSES AND HOUSE OF MERCY The county possesses in rich and inexhaustible abundance three very im- portant articles of com- merce, in iron, marble and lime, and its wood and water power are sufficient to enable it to fit them for useful purposes. The population of the county by the census of 1800 was 33,835, and it has steadily increased since then, until now (census of 1890) it is 81,108. FENK STREET SCHOOLHOUSE A BLACKSMITH'S SHOP Two OTHER Notable Sons of Berkshire. — Among other notable sons of Berkshire, who left their native hills and "won name and fame for themselves in the far west, might be mentioned Francis E. Warren, who once labored on the farms of Hinsdale, but afterward became Governor of Wyoming and United States Senator. George F. Root, the composer of many of the most stirring war songs, was a Berk- shire boy, though his melodies had their inspiration in,— at least were published from, ^prosaic Chicago. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 13 liiait I II I -, I THE JAIL WINTElt AT 8ILVEB LAKE -IP 1 1 -IfliK > «. LIKCOLN STllEET TRIALS OF THE EARLY SETTLERS The facts of this article were gathered from J. K. A. Smith's excellent history of Pittsfield. It is, indeed, a collection of extracts which, without delving deeply in detail, portray some of the more picturesque aspects of the days when the forefathers first pefr^lrated the Berkshire wilds. The tide of population, satting westward from Plymouth Rock, in the brief space of twenty-six years advanced to the shores of the Connecticut, where Springfield was founded, in 1636. Thirty additional years carried it forward barely ten miles to Westfield, where, stayed at the base of Tekoa mountain, it paused for more than half a century, until suddenly, in 1725, it overleaped the Hoosacs, and the village of Sheffield was planted upon the broadest and most fertile meadows of the Housatonic. Twenty-seven years more elapsed before a permanent settlement was effected at belated Pontoosuc. Thus one hun- dred and sixteen years intervened between the settlement of Springfield and that 'Of Pittsfield. The early settlers found the mountainous district of Western Massachusetts teem- ing with the various-species of game and fur-bearing animals then common in New England. Here, too, they met occasional hunting parties of Indians, mostly Mohe- gans. The permanent native inhabitants were, however, sparse, even beyond the ordinary meagerness of Indian populations. The petty villages of a few insignificant ADVENT OBURCH UBTH0DI8T CHUBGU squads alone broke the solitude of the moun- tain wilderness. One of these little hutidles of savage wigwams lay between Sheffield and Great Barrington, and the smoke of others curled up among the woods where Pittsfield, Stockbridge, New Marlborough and Dalton now stand. It is not probable that they had settled abodes at these places, but, as was cus- tomary among the aborigines, they removed their lodges, or abandoned them, and sought a new home as convenience dictated. The lakes Onota and Pontoosuc must have been favorite resorts of the Indians. There their frail birch- bark canoes glided when they fished, and from the tangled coverts alongshore they shot the deer which came to drink or to immerse them- selves to escape tlie heat of the summer days and the' insect pests of the woods. Near the outlet of Lake Pontoosuc was an Indian burial PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ORCHAED STREET SCIIOOLHOUSE 1. ~ * d-ifi^'Mba, I'E.VN STREET place and here have been exhumed some of their skeletons interred in the usual sitting posture. But by the summer of 1752, which is usually accounted the birth-year of Pittsfield, some o? the settlers had log cabins ready to receive their families. First came Solomon Darning, from Wethersfield, with his wife Sarah behind him on a pillion. Mr. Deming's farm was on the north side of Honasada street, in the eastern out- skirts of the township, a region much frequented by the Indians, who were accustomed toftiake themselves a terror and an annoyance to the wives of the settlers, calling at their cabins in the absence of the men, and, with insolent threats, demanding food and drink. It was considered impolitic, in the precarious state of public affairs, to offend the red nuisances by well-deserved punishment; and the only recourse. — one to which only the bolder dames dared to resort — was to shut and bolt the door in their impudent faces. In the same summer, came Charles Good- rich, "driving the first cart and team which ever entered the town, and cutting the way through the woods for a number of miles." It is of tradition that he reached the last of the Hoosac summits which he had to pass, ju.st at nightfall; and, fearful of missing the path if he attempted to proceed in the dusk, tied his horses to a tree, and kept guard over them all night against the wild beasts, w alking around to prevent himself from falling asleep, and munching an apple, his sole remaining ration, for supper. Goodrich was a man of consider- able property and long continued the wcaltliiest citizen of the town, as well as one of those most distinguished for enterprise and intellectual ability. Pittsfield was approached by one or two rough roads. But many of its settlers appear tb have come by the most direct route practicable, through the woods, guided by marked trees. This was done more easily than we are apt to suppose, on account of a practice which prevailed, both among the aborigi- nes and the pioneers, of burning the underbrush, in order to facilitate hunting. RESIPENCE OF H. W. BISU01> RESIDENCE OF MRS. THOMAS ALLEN A PICTL'RESQUE CORNER ON FENN STREET as well as to destroy the lurking place of enemies, and, by the natives in order to prepare some portion of the ground for their rude culture. It is a mistake to picture the aboriginal forest of New England as a scene altogether, or chiefly, of sombre shades and tangled thickets. The hunters of a labor-hating race, courting neither difficulty nor danger in the chase, did not choose that their grounds should be cumbered with thickets which at once PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 15 field, Tyringham, Alford, Egremont and Mount Washington. Northward a few families had made their liomes in Williamstown and Lanesborough. Here and there, among the green woods, solitary hunters and trappers — hardier even than the pioneer farmer — planted patches of vegetables in the scant clearings where they built their lonely cabins, — seminaries which produced the boldest and most successful scouts in the coming war. The Indians formed a more considerable element in the population of the SUMMER ON EAST STREET impeded their pursuit of game, and afforded concealment to hostile braves ; and so, since it cost but a kindling spark, the annual fires swept them clear. Even the patient squaws were not enamored of hard work, and the same ready agent helped them to pre- pare the meadow for the hoe. Thus immense tracts were swept of their undergrowth, while the more mossy trees were unharmed; so that it is related that a deer could be seen, in a heavily-timbered country, at a distance of forty rods. Even the upland forests were passable — with a little occa'sional aid from the axe — for carts and drays, such as were used by the early settlers. The Plantation of Poontoosuck had, in August, 1754, made respect- able progress. Most of the sixty home-lots had been taken up; and, although in some instances two or more were purchased by a single settler, the population of the place must have been nearly two hundred. The dwellings were as yet all of logs ; but CharKs Goodrich was preparing to build, on Wendell Square, the first frame house in the township. Between the years 1725 and 1754, the territory embraced in the present Berkshire county gained a popula- tion of perhaps something more than fifteen hundred, — almost all of it south of Poontoosuck. The towns of Sheffield and Stockbridge were incorporated; and settlements were planted in New Marlborough, Sandis- WINTER OX EVST STIiEKT LOOKING UP WILLIS STREET FROM EAST valley than at any previous date ■ since its settlement by the English, showing a census of probably about three hundred. The mission commenced in 1734 and established at Stockbridge in 1735, had in twenty years produced an admirable change in the condition of the Mohegans; but it had not wrought a miracle upon them. Ever well disposed toward the white man, and, upon the whole, well treated by him, they received at his hands the gifts of education and religion with a readiness which was not to be ex- pected in tribes whose experience had been of a different character, and they adopted the usages of civi- lized life with astonishing facility. They did not, however, leap at once from the depths of barbarism to the plane which the Saxon race had reached only after ages and genera- tions of painful climbing. Much less did they elevate themselves above the human passions and frail- ties from which their teachers were not themselves free. There was. moreover, a va^ahnnrl class, who liad'lost the virtues ST. STEPHEN'S BECTORY — RESIUENOE OF KEV. W. W. NEWTOS EAST &TKK1';I' i6 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ]USS1DENCE OF MRS. ENSIGN KELLOGG KESIDENCE OF WILLIAM A. TLUNKETT — THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE of savage life without submitting to the restraints of civilized society, — loose fellows, who hung around the settlements, selling the fruits of their hunting and trapping for rum, and then roaming from farm- house to farmhouse, committing the annoyances of which mention has been made. They were frowned upon by the more respectable and numerous class of the tribe ; but they created a bitter prejudice, in the minds of the unthinking, against all of their color. Nor were the annoyances to which the settlers were subject wholly unprovoked on their part. The pro- vincial government, its agents, and the better part of the people, did, indeed, treat the Mohegans, not only with scrupulous justice, but with tender and earnest regard for both their temporal and spiritual welfare, and with generous forbearance towards the frailties and perversities of their wild neophytes. But there were too many exceptions to this rule, even among men in some small authority, who had come from sections of the province where the Indian, without distinction of person or tribe, was known only to the masses to be detested. And if the Mohegans suffered injustice from the hands of those who should have been in some degree restrained by the well-known wishes of the ■government, the treatment was simply intolerable which he received at the hands of a rude soldiery, hereditary haters of every redskin, and ignorant or regardless of the long-tried fidelity of the tribe of Uncas to the English cause. In the spring of 1753, one Wampaumcorse, a ' Schaghticoke Indian, domiciled at Stockbridge, being in Sugar Camp at Hop Brook in Tyringham, saw two men, Cook by name, passing by with horses which he IIENEY W. LONGFELLOW suspected to be stolen. He pursued them, and in an altercation which arose he was shot dead. The Cooks were thereupon arrested, and tried at Springfield. One was convicted of manslaughter, and the other acquitted; which seems to have been what the law and the evi- Somewhat back from the village street Stands the old-fashion'd country-seat ; Across its antique portico Tall poplar trees their shadows throw— ' And from its station in the hall An ancient timepiece says to all^ Forever, never, Never, forever. Longfellow's " Old Clock on the Stairs." dence required. But in the minds of the Schaghti- cokes, as in those of the exiled PequotSi murderous resentment against the English was always ready to be aroused ; and this affair was used with the utmost success to exasperate the Indians. Its effect was soon apparent " in the surly behavior of several in whom it had not before been observed ; " in the stealing of guns ; in more frequent intercourse with distant tribes, and the consorting together of the worst-tempered and worst-behaved fellows, who had a drunken pow- wow, which was kept up, in the woods some six miles west of Stockbridge, with fresh supplies of rum from Kinderhook ; and finally some negro slaves reported a plot, in which they had been invited to join, for the massacre of as many of the whites as possible, and flight to Canada. Upon this, the wildest excitement prevailed at Stock- bridge, and not less, of course, in the more exposed outpost of PoontoOsuck. The people of the former place wisely determined to call the Indians together, let them know their apprehensions, and endeavor to ascertain what foundation there was for them. > It appeared, as had bfeeh' anticipated,, that " the great body of the tribe were jentirely unacquainted with the secret plot, but that the thing was real with ^^HHP '. ■■--'■-; s ■ ' ^-S^ ^^■r ■-.,4 '-'X^ ' ||H' *^ V; ^Ql ^^ ■fc . ---*»^ ^ '^ P^T', ^^ K rArittil 1 y StM Im w „SP1 ■■ \ L! EAST STREET HOMES KESIDEXCE of; RUSSELL ALLEN PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE regard to so many that the authorities looked upon them- selves as in a worse state than in an open war." To restore quiet and avoid the Indian resentment, the sum of £zo was distributed by the government among the friends of the dead savage. As a result the excite- ment among the natives to some degree subsided. On the evening of Thursday, the 29th of August, some Stockbridge Indians, who had been northward on a hunt- ing excursion, returned in haste with the startling report that, on the previous day, they had, in concealment, wit- nessed the total destruction of Dutch Hoosack, a village northwest of Williamstown, by a band of six hundred strange savages. Even yet, however, there appears to have been no ap- prehension, at Stockbridge, of danger from any of the Indians then in the town ; and timely notice was expected, from the scouts who were scouring the woods, of the approach of any others. The people attended church as usual; and, in the absence of their neighbors for that purpose, the family of one Chamberlain, who lived in the retired locality of "The Hill," seem to have considered themselves in perfect safety, until they were suddenly attacked at about three o'clock in the afternoon. There were in the house Chamberlain, his wife, three children, and' another man, named Owen. Two Indians only at- tacked the house. Chamberlain, his wife and a child escaped. Owen, after a severe struggle, was killed and scalped, as was also one of the children. The third child 17 HENRT L. DAWE,-: a laboring man from Canaan, Conn., who had been at work in Poontoosuck during the summer. The woods were full of the prowling savages. A scout sent out from Fort Massachusetts towards Albany ascer- tained that, "on the 25th or 26th of August, forty-two canoes of Indians, of five, six or seven in a canoe, crossed the lake " (either Lake George or Lake Champlain), " with a design to make a descent on our frontier." On the 6th of September, a man who had ventured to return to Poon- toosuck was "shot at by three Indians, and the bullets penetrated his clothes in several places." He returned the fire and "shot one down, but did not get him." The reliable local tradition is, that the white combat- ant, having procured a re-enforcement, traced his oppo- nent by his blood to the shore of Lake Onota, and found a pebble wrapped in cloth, which had evidently been used to stanch the wound. But the injured man had disap- peared ; whether carried off by his friends, or plunged into the lake to save his scalp from his pursuers, is uncertain. For several years the border communities carried on their work in armed fear of sudden attack. Poontoosuck, f4\ 7/^ fw 1 i/'- ■ -;-«^^ft*l»*i«-S!S;,:- ■■ -cyap' hr' ' ■ - ■ \. ■- .- 'is^ ^-f- " THE HOUSATONIC.IN WINTER was made captive, but was killed by the savages when, after a short flight, they came upon a party of English from Poontoosuck. The party from Poon- toosuck was a portion of the population of that place, mounted on horses flying to the stronger settlements of the south. On their way they were repeatedly fired upon from the woods ; and some of the fugitives narrowly escaped the bullets of the hidden foe. But the only person who was killed was one Stevens, mm''^^- THE END 01 EAST STREET HOME OF SEKATOBilBAWES in common with most of the frontier towns, had its fort which was garrisoned by an average force of thirty men. Tradition is garrulous of encounters in the township, both before and after the breaking out of the war, between the white man and the red, with fatal results to the latter; but these stories are happily discredited by the fact, that no mention of them is made in contemporary reports, in which every \f: ' ^' . f'l A FOOTBRIDGE ACROSS THE STREAM indication of the presence of the enemy on the border was scrupulously noted, and whose writers were well informed of every incident which happened at Poontoosuck. Two Indians were, however, killed near the fort at Lanesborough ; and the universal belief that the woods, up to the very walls of the forts, were full of hostile savages, i8 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE must have had some foundation in fact. Peace was at last assured in 1760 and the settlers were again left free to win for themselves comfort and prosperity. THE DEAR OLD HOMES OF BERK- SHIRE HEK3IAK MELVILLE Many of the homes amid the Berkshire hills are ancestral homes, from whence pre- vious generations have been removed to the larger, higher life, after their warfare had been accomplished here. Hallowed associa- tions linger around these dear old homes and the reminiscences of childhood days, that have been " put away in the heart, like rose leaves, are taken out to fill life with sweetness now that the roses are gone." What beautiful pictures, we, who long years ago crossed the threshold of those homes, to enter upon the commerce of the world, call to THE GAS HOUSE NEIGHBORHOOD mind as the twilight deepens. All along the journey of life we meet with "a touch of the vanished hand," and a strain of the mother's hymn, she sang to us when we nestled in her safe, loving arms. We never travel too far away, or grow too old to lose those holy influences that were about us in those " mothering days." Sor- rows, disappointments, and many " ills of the flesh " have come to us, and we long for her hand to rest again in blessing on our heads and to hear her gentle voice in words of love and sympathy and guidance. Those were the days when we walked with light and willing feet through the pleasant fields, gathering the butter- cups and daisies in our childish hands — days "when we flew in little curves over all prickles and alighted only on blossoms." Now, when the travelers go back to the old homes, as they often do, how much that made up life in childhood time has passed out of it. We can say with Heine, " I beheld the mountains looking at me earnestly and nodding to me with their mountain beards. Here and there I remarked a distant hill, which appeared to raise itself on tiptoe and look curiously over the hills in order to see me," for the hills of Berk- shire remain unchanged, amid all other changes. Down in the hollow is the old red school-house, where we toed the mark, at the crack between the two wide boards that met in the floor, just in front of the teacher's desk, where the broken pitcher stood filled with " bouncing bets," or hollyhocks ^.nd marigolds. What a volume of learning there was in " Webster's spelling book." How we pitied the maid who lost her eggs, her chickens, and her beautiful green gown, because the thoughts of assured ON THE OUTSKIRTS — POMEROT AVENUE prosperity caused her to forget, for the moment, to carry her head level, and her milk was all spilled upon the ground. Now, we see a new genera- tion of boys and girls coming out of the door, and somehow they do not seem in touch with those who came out at close of school when we did. The rail fences have given way to wire ones and there are no more play- houses in the corners, with pretty bits of broken china placed in a row on the rail for dishes. The tall steeple of the old meeting-house still points toward heaven, as it did in childhood days, but the silvery haired shepherd who led the flock on the hillsides, long since passed into the better country and his weary feet are resting in "the green pastures and by the still waters." " The blue-eyed girl, who sang air " and " the black-eyed girl, who sang THE SAMPSON PLACE OBAl'TOWEK — THE POLLOCK PLACE alto," have joined the company of singers in the holy city. The sober, staid elderly people who sat in the front pews, with their bunches of fennel and carryway in the summer time, are not there to listen to the word as it is preached in the church militant. They have had their membership transferred to.the church triumphant. But no place on earth, notwithstanding the changes, brings us so near to heaven as a visit to these old familiar places. We wonder we did not better appreciate the holy influences of those early days when wewere mingling with them and they made part of our lives But they gave us strength of heart later, and have enabled us to carry one spray of %A-,'^^" I KESIDBNCE OF FKANK DllTTON THE RIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY P ITTSFIELD. Berkshire is a district of mountains and tumbled hills. The only spot where it can fairly be said to repose in quiet is the wide valley basin where the country city of Pittsfield stands. Even here PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE palm branch and stem of passion flower — symbols of the victories and the glories of suffering — with a steadier and more trust- ful hand. Susan Teall Perry. 19 lU I , KESIUEKOIi OF CHAKLEb ATWATEli OUT FOR A WALK Pittsfield, by reason of its elevation, has to a considerable degree possessed itself of these blessings, and in addition has a rare ac- cessibility and surroundings within easy driving distance, as high and wild and picturesque and beautiful as one could desire. It is the focusing place of several railroads, and is therefore an easy place to get out of, or, what is more to the point, to get into. The central village is located on a mildly elevated plateau where ItESIUENCE OF WILLIA31 A. WIllTl'ELSY ELMWOOD — KESIDENCE OF MRS. EDWARD LEARNED the high, blue waves of the encircling hills are in clear view on every side, and no matter what outgoing road one takes, it soon brings one into a region which has the reported Berkshire character. Though to the eye Pittsfield is in the lowlands, yet in fact it is one thousand feet above the sea level, a height which takes one to the mountain tops in the Connecticut valley, where, at that height, coolness, pure air and breezes are supposed to reign universal. its streets radiate from a little elm-arched park. A determined looking bronze soldier stands guard here on a high granite pedestal. He has a sword HOMES ON liAKTLETT AVENUE JiBSlDEMCE OF G. H. LAFJ^IN at his side and carries a flag, and he seems particularly interested in railroading, for it may be observed that he is invariably looking down toward the depot. In the midst of the elm bower a fountain plays, and various settees are distributed along the borders of the gravel paths. There are almost always loiterers here. In the morning you see them reading the Springfield Republican., and during the rest of the day, I suppose, 20 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE WENDELL AVENUE — SOUTH FROM EAST HOUSATONIO STREET WENDELL AVENUE — NOKTII FKOM EAST HOUSATONIO STREET WENDELL AVENUE HOMES at least the elderly men whom I have seen in earnest discussion there, are settling the affairs of the nation to suit themselves. On the north side of the square stands the massive granite Atheneum and the big marble court-house, which is nearly hidden in summer by the grove of elms before it. To the west the most prominent building is that of the widely known Berkshire Life Insurance Compamy. On the north side arc the granite First Congregational church, the brownstone Episcopal church, and sandwiched between these the city hall, which has every appearance of being an old-timer. St. S tephen's, of all the group, is the building that lingers longest in the mind, though at first sight it seems, with its short, heavy tower, almost clumsy in its massiveness. I cannot say just where its charm lies, but it nevertheless was to my mind a very satisfying and delightful structure. On the remaining side the park looks down the broad thoroughfare of East street. This street has a noble double file of old elms on either side and many comfortable and handsome homes repose behind the masses of foliage. It is not the purpose of this article to catalogue or describe in detail the fine residences and public buildings of the place, for that to most would be tiresome. The pictures are so profuse as to them- selves tell the story with some completeness, and these written impressions are simply supplemen- tary. The city is well sup- plied with trees, and on the residence streets the dwellings are so screened from view as to make pic- turing them in summer well-nigh hopeless. For this reason it was neces- sary to take most of the pictures about town when the leaves were off. Pittsfield's chief busi- ness street runs north, the business blocks beginning near the park. It is lined solidly by substantial brick blocks for a half- mile or more and in a scattering way still far- ther. This is the great trading center for all the southern half of the county, and the produce, the vehicles and the char- acters which appear on the street are varied and interesting. The stranger will, perhaps, regard the broad-brimmed Shakers, who come from West Pittsfield and Mount Leb- anon, with as much curi- osity as any. In the winter the most interest- ing of the pilgrims to the town that I met the day I was there was a tall farmer who had come down from some mountain on the front bob of a sled. While he watered his horse at the stone trough east of the park he told me he had got in all over in the snow. r ■- 1 f^' Alii , ,. ' ■^-■ ■'^yM ^ , s k H M'/^ ■ 'p % m ml. ^ ■ ; 1 1 ^■Wffjf' I i i 1 t J ^- I WiM 1 1 awWi^?^-'- - ■ ■■'^ iXM s«#* - - ^ ->^M:- ^T -'^^^r' \ ' * ^^*-«^^ -* ^ *^-, J Si* - /2^j;,_ TMK HIGH SCUUUL ■".■'-"T;?^'^';^?^^^, P>^-.-v|^™^jr -^-x-?^"^^ - HIS FIKST I'ANTS AN ENTRANCE TO THE LEARNED PLACE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 21 RESIDENCE OF MRS. A. C. JOSLIN Before one of the Main street stores the sojourner in town remarks with aston- ishment some gigantic foot- prints which start from tlie horse block at the curbing and go straight for the en- trance. It is a question whether these are the foot- prints of the proprietor or of a customer. The owner must be worth seeing if lie is at all proportionate to hi,'; number twenty-seven boots but the possibility of his proving unamiable prt- vented my following him. On the way up the street one is impressed by the lofty and symmetrical spire KKtolDEMCE OF THEUOORE POMEROY of the big Catholic church and by the long white row of buildings behind its park of trees that in former years was the Maplewood Institute and is now a favorite summer hotel. Back of this is a square, high building con- nected with the hotel by a bridge at the second story. It looks very like a church and suggests the idea that the hotel people must be uncommonly religious to have a church all their own in such close connection. In following the side street back one comes quite unexpectedly on a good-sized park just south of the railroad. Halt of it is a grove of young shade trees and the other half is a clear, grassy expanse where the boys play ball. The street adjoining continues to East street. On the lat- ter are two dwellings that I cannot refrain from giving a more marked mention. First there is the large and beautiful old-fashioned house where the preacher and writer, Rev. William VVilberforce Newton, makes his home. It would be difficult to find a finer example of its type of gambrel-roofed simplicity and commodiousness. The second dwelling is " Elm Knoll," now the home of Mr. Plunkett. Aside from its attractive situation this is notable as having been the summer home of the poet Longfellow for several seasons. It was here he wrote that favorite poem, " The old clock on the stairs." Not far beyond where you turn the corner and go down a little hill is the modest home of Senator Dawes. If you continue, the street becomes a country road and wanders out into a fine farming district where some of the mansions are so large and handsome that they would add distinction to any street in the city. This is a characteristic of all the gently rolling outskirts of the place. Of these great farms one of the most noted is some two miles east of the center. A finely proportioned stone arch guards the entrance and emblazons the name of "the Allen Farm." The road leads through it THE OLD MARTIN PLACE up a gentle rise to a racing track and what seemed to me the largest barns I had ever seen. West of Pittsfield, on the high ground near Lake Onota, on opposite sides of the lake, are the great Valen- tine and Walker farms. To get to these you leave the village and follow West street up the hill under its fine arch of old elms and maples and past a number of thrifty intervening farm- houses, till you come to some highly cultivated fields fenced in along the road by a massive and new stone wall. Over the fence are some sub- stantial buildings and slick inclos- ures where, the day I passed, a family of pigs were industriously digging up the earth with their noses, and a flock of guinea fowls was picking about in a grassplot. On the rise beyond was a most charming and picturesque modern farmhouse, and far back, across the fields on the 'WW«^9P _ ^'f^^ . *^ ^_ ' _■ SOUTH COJStiKECATIOJNAL UIIUKCU KZBKIEL COLT PLACE edge of a pine wood, stood the summer mansion of the Valentines, over- looking the lake. On the west shore of the lake is a similar place owned by Wirt D. Walker of Chicago, so like the other in attractiveness it would be difficult to choose between the two. From the south end of Lake Onota I had one of the most charming views of Greylock that I met with in the county. Another fine view of this mountain is from a turn in the road about a mile south of the city where, from a terrace, you overlook a long reach of lowland which seems to extend in a wildly undulating expanse to the very base of the mountain. The day I was at this spot I drove westerly through some mill villages in the glens to the Shaker settlement in West Pittsfield. I made pictures of the various houses and big buildings belonging to the community amid the fertile, well-cultivated fields about, and, as it was nearly sunset, tried to get kept over night. Company prevented a granting of my request, and after visiting a 22 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 'lllli aALlJsllLUY bCHOOL THE EATON PLACE i COllKEB BROAD AND SOUTH STttEETS access than that up at Pontoosuc lake. The electric cars take you straight there. A pleasant road follows the winding eastern shore line of the lake up to Lanesboro, its full length. Another road turns westward at the lower end, but I don't know where that goes to. I followed it in the expectation itwould take me along the west shore. Instead, it went up into the hills and when I lost sight of the lake and began to get into the mud I thought it time to turn back. By the shores of the lake are boat houses, wharves, sum- mer cottages, and on the west side of the sheet of water a white steamer was moored. At the northern end of the pond its borders become swampy and, alongshore, like levia- thans of the deep, are many great stumps with huge, sprawling arms, barely afloat. They looked so much like devilfish I could almost imagine they were alive. The two lakes room where penwipers, match scratchers, emery bags, pin cushions, baskets, etc., were kept for sale, I made a purchase and wended my way toward Pittsfield. When I entered the city I accosted a young man near the park and asked him to direct me to a good hotel. He said the Burbank and the American House were both good, "but," said he, glancing at my machine, "the American is the one you want — there are some other surveyors up there." He seemed to know what I ought to do and I took his advice. That night 1 slept in a room whose windows seemed to be just over the railroad track; for every now and then I was roused by a train that came crashing in with a sound which, to my. unfamiliar ears, seemed like an impending doom that was going to raze the town. Perhaps there is no prettier pleasure ground, and certainly there is none easier of Tin-: CAMPBELL PLACE S^ - f'^^ ' HUUTH STHEET HOMES gOUTH STKKET BELOW THE HILL PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 23 week or so. They were almost indignant that I should suggest such a thing and said it would be lucky if it was finished by the time snow flew. But what they could occupy themselves with- that length of time was a mystery to me, for it seemed nearly finished then. However, I reflected that this bit of a building was to cost )^27,ooo, and that was so much beyond my comprehension I saw good reason why the other should be AN OLD LANDMARK ON SOUTH STREET Pontoosuc and Onota, with the woods and fields bordering them, and the fine hill and mountain ranges rising not far back, are, I fancy, among the most charming to be found in New England. On the way back to Pittsfield one can conveniently stop at the cemetery. It has a very fine stone-arched entrance. To get to the burial section you have to follow a winding road along a stream, across bits of meadow, over hills and through strips of well-grown woodland. I doubt if there is anything finer in its way in the state than this half of the cemetery. In a park-like meadow, a;t the foot of the slope where the stones begin to appear, are some miniature ponds where a family of ducks have a floating house, and enliven the scene by their excursions on the water and alongshore. I made a tour among the stones A MEADOW STREAM — FROM A DRAWING BY ADELAIDE MOPFATT also. Nevertheless, I thought, as I walked back along the winding road to the entrance, that however rich and awe inspiring the finished mausoleum proved it never could be as fine as nature in these woods and meadows. Here I write " The End." These are but rambling notes and impres- sions, and just where they come to a close is no great matter. Clifton Johnson. r .,,.,.,-™. ,. THE HOLMES PINE PICKING FLOWERS 'FOR I THEj TEACHER^ on the hilltops until I came to a new tomb in process of construction. It was a many-sided marble building with an unpainted shed against its side and many chips and a few old barrels about. Some workmen were putting gold leaf on a slab of mosaic at one side and were having a hard time of it, for a brisk breeze blew that had a strong tendency to catch and scatter the glittering tinsel. Inside, several more men were at work polishing and dabbing in ways that were quite beyond my understanding. I asked would they have the place finished in a OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES M ^ -~ TILLOTSU»'s MILL I'OSD BARKEUVILLE 24 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE TILLOTSON MILLS THE AGASSIZ ASSOCIATION BY HARLAN H. BALLARD Berkshire county is full of interest to students of nature. Its geological ■structure has for many years drawn the attention of eminent men of science. Its flora is rich and varied. It produces many plants whose flowers attract the eye of the summer tourist by their beauty, and many, rarer and more modest, which are sought in hidden corners by the botanist. Its valleys are alive with More persons are doing that to-day than ever before. Never has it been so widely acknowledged that every square inch of the .earth's surface affords opportunity for thought and discovery. Never has the importance of training the young to habits of close attention been so strongly felt. Methods of teaching are passing through a change which is revolutionary. Facts regarding nature are not now conned from a book and recited. Pupils are made to ONE OF THE HOMES OP WEST PITTSFIELD SHAKERS SIIAKEli VILLAGE— THE OFFICE THE MAIN STREET IN SHAKER VILLAGE the birds common to New England and New York, and its higher hills are visited by strange birds from more northern districts. The quiet beauty of Berkshire scenery is of itself enough to draw people out of doors. Nothing is so uninteresting as a person who is hardly to be interested. The faculty of taking a lively interest in one's natural surroundings can easily be cultivated in this county. It is easy here to imitate White and Kingsley, who studied the wood they burned on the hearth, the stones they trod on, the brook that wet their feet. The fact that these men and others of like character have derived such enjoy- ment from a somewhat untechnical observation of nature makes it probable that it were wise for many of us to follow in their footsteps. liUtLDINGS OF THE WEST FITTSFIELD SHAKERS handle the things they study. Instead of reading about minerals, they break them, weigh them, heat them, and test them with strong acids. The union of those who are working in similar lines increases their interest. If you have found a new flower, it is pleasant to have some appreciative friend to rejoice with you. It was a favorite dream of Louis Agassiz to see small societies established in every town for the purpose of studying the district in which they live, for a radius of five or ten miles. He felt that such a combination of students would render possible the THE EASTERN VALLEY, PROM POTTER MODMTAIH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 25 A WHITE BIliCH THICKET ON POTTER 3I0UNTAIN purchase of books and apparatus which indi- viduals could hardly afford to buy. He hoped that libraries might be started, cabinets built, local museums founded. With the desire to realize in some measure these ideas of Agassiz, a little society was organ- ized in connection with the Lenox high school in 1875. It was called the Lenox High School Scientific Society. Its members made many delightful excursions in search of plants and minerals, and while most of their findings were very common things to educated eyes, they were new to those that found them, and quite as in- structive as if they had been rarer. Now and then, too, something really out of the ordinary was discovered, as where the fruit of the trailing arbutus was plucked on the rocks of the " Pinna- cle" — and when a vein full of quartz crystals was brought to light. The success of this society attracted the notice of other schools in Berkshire, and similar organizations were started with equally good results. These joined the Lenox society, and the name, "Agassiz Association," was adopted. The collection of specimens taken from distant points, and the comparison of observations >made by many observers helped to broaden and correct views and theories based on merely local study. In order to in- crease and extend an in- terest in nature-studies, a sketch of the societies' work was published in 1880, and a general invita- tion extended to all who might be interested, to form local clubs and unite with the "Agassiz Asso- ciation." The responses to this invitation were far more numerous than had been anticipated. Branches, or "chapters," were formed in nearly all the states of the Union, and some in foreign lands. Since 1S80 more than fifteen hundred of these local societies have been started. Some of those first organized are still active. The greater part, however, liave maintained an organized existence, averaging about four SD A WOOD KOAD L00KJKI3 AgiiySS LAilK U^UTA TOWARD GllEyLOCK years, during which time they have devoted themselves either to a more or less systematic study of their own districts, or have fol- lowed one or more of the courses of study, which it was found expedient to provide for those who had no experienced leader among their own number. Most of the societies, therefore, seem to have regarded their connection with the Agassiz Association much in the light of a four-years' course of observation and study, during which prepa- ration could be made for entering upon a more strictly scientific course in a college or university. The greater benefit has come to those clubs which have caught more clearly the true purpose of the association, viz. : to estabhsh local societies, which may become permanent and continue adding to the knowledge of their environ- ment. Owing to the juvenile character of the magazine in which the first invitation was issued, and in which for six years the pro- ceedings of the association were published, the greater part of its membership for the first few years were children, and the methods of study pursued were often desultory. Owing also to the vast circulation of the popu- lar magazine which was the first "offi- cial organ" of the association, an extremely large number of members was enrolled — amounting to a total of more than twenty thousand. This was unwieldy, and, moreover, foreign to the original purpose of the association. Another medium of communication was sought in a journal called the '■'Swiss Cross," mhonoroi the national emblem of Agassiz's native land, and this paper, conducted wholly in the interests of the association, and edited by its president, soon gave a new tone to the society, and stimulated real work among such of its members as were truly interested and earnest. Quite an army of boys and girls who had joined the association just "for fun," now left it, but on the other hand a steadily increasing number of young men and women and of adults united with it, and the society grew and 26 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A SOUTIIEHN VIEW ACUOSS ONOTA One of the chief reasons for securing the incorporation of the Agassiz Association, was the necessity of obtaining a permanent fund, the income from which might be applied to meeting the current expenses of the society, engaging teachers to conduct its courses of study, publishing a suitable official paper, aiding needy students, etc. Within a week after the organization of the A. A., the first donation of five thousand dollars was received. It came from Mr. H. E. Deats of Flemington, N. J., a young man prospered until in iSHgthe publisher of the Swiss Cross wsls forced to suspend its publication. This sudden cutting of the main cord which united the scat- tered chapters was a serious blow to the " A. A.; " a blow from which it has now (1893) but just recovered. Room was soon found for a department in Popular Science News, published in Boston, and this department, called " The ON THE ROAD WEST OF LAKE OKOTA Out Door World," has for several years contained a monthly summary of the societies' work and progress. If the A. A. were able to publish a. journal of its own, it would be much to its advantage. The Agassiz Association was incorporated with the following incorporators: Harlan H. Ballard, W. R. Plunkett, Edward T. Slocum, George H. Tucker, J. F. A. Adams, Henry W. Bishop, Zenas Crane, James M. Barker, H. E. Deats, Alpheus Hyatt. PREPARATIONS FOR A DAT S HOEING BUILT IN 1777 — OLD FAKMIIOUSE NORTH OF ONOTA ciation in their gifts and in their bequests, when they realize the widely beneficial character of its work. A CENTRAL MUSEUM This year, 1893, the Agas- siz Association makes an exhibit at the Columbian Ex- position. This exhibit con- sists of the literature of the society. Specimens collected by various chapters, photo- graphs, illustrations of chap- ter work, courses of study with prepared collections of minerals, and a quantity of material fully illustrating the methods of work pursued by the association. The Berkshire Atheneum, the leading literary and scien- tific institution of the county, has made arrangements to who had for several years been a member of the association, and who was desirous of testi- fying in this manner to the benefits he had secured from the society, and of helping it ex- tend those benefits to others. It is very impor- tant that this endowment fund be increased to fifty thousand dollars, and to this end the society confidently appeals to all who are in- terested in helping young men and women educate themselves. The Agassiz Association is a pioneer in the work of University Extension. It is believed that every chapter and member of the associa- tion will contribute to this fund according to his ability ; and that generous-minded men and women will be induced to remember the asso- ON THE WAT TO PASTURE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 27 CAUSEWAY ACROSS OKOTA receive this exhibit entire at the close of the fair, and to preserve it as the nucleus of an Agassiz Association Museum. Thepresidentof the A. A.- is the librarian and curator of the Atheneum, which will consequently become the national headquarters of the society. This museum will in time doubtless contain a collection fully representing the natural re- sources of Berkshire, as well as interesting specimens contributed from all parts of the world. to draw out this leviathan with a hook. They snap- ped like pipestems in his horny mouth, which fairly bristled with broken hooks, the trophies of his numerous encounters. Sometimes he could be seen basking in the sun in the shallow water near the bank, or, on a moonlit evening, lashing the water of the pond, and turning somersaults, or, stretching out full length, chasing a venturesome and belated muskrat that was making for the other shore. This made him look like a sea- serpent five rods long, with SIMMEK KE&IDENOE OF BENKY C. VALENTINE 1 ¥ ^ IN A PASTURE SUSIMER HOME OP WIKT D. WaLKEU Y ^ UP WEST STREET HILL A BERKSHIRE COUNTY EEL STORY He lived in a pond not many miles from Pittsfield. He had had it all his own way there for many years. Fishermen from far and near had tried to capture him. Some had got their hooks into his mouth, but it was impossible AN OLD WEST STREET DWELLING a muskrat head at the forward end of him. As this old eel was getting domineering in his en- croachments, and'had chased Sam Pomeroy and one of the Briggs boys, who went in swimming one evening, half way home, there was an ill-feeling created against him that led to concerted measures for his destruction. Jim Knight and myself, both of us then mere striplings, thought we could cover ourselves all over with glory if we could drag him out. So he slept with me one night and we concocted schemes that we thought ought to secure him a dozen times over before evening. We finally decided we would build a raft and sally out after him, meeting him in his own element. Our raft was made of logs with boards loosely laid on. We left the ignoble, gaping crowd of other boys, and boldly pushed from the shore. We were armed with a strong pole, to which we had tied two long, tough whiplashes made of woodchuck skin, at the end of which we had attached a weighted slip noose of brass wire. This we planned to pass over his head and by a sudden impulse throttle him. The sun was shining in his circuit overhead, and the pond was still, transparent, and glassy as a mirror. We could see an occasional sucker rubbing his swollen gums on something succulent on the bottom; but what cared we for suckers then? We THE VALENTINK FAUMHOU FEEDING TITE CHICKRXS PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE It was a fearful moment ! I glanced at ray companion. He was as pale as ashes. Should I give the desperate jerk ? I looked at the landscape, at the distant shore, thought of home and longed to be there. These things passed through my mind with the speed of light- ning, like swift-winged messengers of doom. I felt that I should unmask a volcano by a jerk. I gave a vigorous pull. In a second all was chaos, the water boiled like a pot, and the quick surges leaped along the shore. The ei 1 coiled and doubled, he lashed the deep, he leaped half his length out of the water. I could see the glittering noos2 with its deadly embrace about his waist, Jim and I clung to the pole with desperate strength. The tough wood bent, and the line of whiplash hummed like a trolling line that strikes a log. At length the eel made directly for the raft and was upon us with open mouth and writhing like a serp ent. I clung to the pole with one hand while I pounded him with a paddle with the other, my companion joining in LOOKI^G AT PICTURES WITH GRANDMA WEST STREET WILLOWS moved warily from place to place, and thrice I laid down the paddle and took up the pole with the fatal noose attached, thinking I caught a glimpse of him. At last we really saw him. He was busily swallowing his morning meal. I tell you 'twas a splendid but a fearful sight. He was a monster! The bub- bles came up from his fanning gills to the surface of the water, and there he lay with his silvery sides and his tail gently undulating and playing in the shadowed and uncertain depth, apparently caring nothing for our doings over- head, and looking, to my magnified vision, about as long as a rod of rubber hose does to a drunken fireman. With a firm hand I lowered the glittering noose and passed it lightly over his head, just brushing his fins and sliding it gently along a little farther. THE POND AT POMEROY'S UPPER MILL FARMHOUSES ON WEST STREET ST. JOSEPH'S ROMAN CVTUOLIC CHURCH the melee. In the struggle the raft was rent asunder and went to pieces, and we were both instantly in the water. I clung to the pole, perhaps more with the instinct ot self-preservation than in the interests of fishing, and with my free hand clutched a PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 29 THE OLD GEK^[.■\^- LUTHEKAN CHURCH IN THE CHILDREN ? -HOUSE or MERrV FRENCH CATHOLIC CHUIiCII fragment of the raft. I expected momentarily that every leg I had would bo bitten off close up, but just at this juncture a man appeared with a boat and rescued us. I stuck to the pole with the tenacity of a snapping turtle to the leg of a young gosling, and the man pulled stoutly toward shore, I tugging with the writhing monster behind, leaving a wake like that made by a screw propeller. On landing, the three of us joined in drawing him up on the bank. He knocked me over with his tail, but we finally succeeded in killing him. I do not say how long he was — don't ask me. He was skinned and cut up in sections and distributed through the village, and peace reigned once more throughout her borders, for the dreaded terror of the waters was vanquished. The selectmen held a meeting and decreed a vote of thanks and further, as a tilting testimony to our courage, they be- stowed upon my compan- ion and myself a medal. It was a ten-cent piece with a hole and a string in it to wear about the neck as a rich memorial. I have- mine yet. It won't pas."^, because it's punched. A. E. Bartlett, in " The Co7nic Angler' BEFORE THE RAIN The silver poplar's pearl and emerald sheen Glimmeis incessant, shadow- ing the eaves ; The willow's wide, fair foun- tain fall of green WhispeiS Uke rain; a pulse of gladness heaves The world of waving leaves. Florence Perry. SECO^D CO.NCKUGAIIUNAL (.I.Li.Cll vCoLul.liDj OLD MILLS ON WAHCONAH STREET THE NEW GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCH Advice for the Fisherman. — In fishing you should never be in a hurry. Note the following instance of patience exhibited even in a small boy. He was sent by his mother to a neighbor's to get some sour milk. When told that they had none he sweetly said, " Well I gusss I'll sit down and wait till it sours." That boy would, with proper training and diet, make an excellent fisherman. Fish as a general thing are shy on first acquaintance. They will not meet you at the landing ; they will not come to you, but you must go to them. And when you go, go slowly ; you must wait their moods, study their habits. Have patience like the little boy, and while you are waiting remem- ber the fish are growing. A. E. Bartlett, in " The Comic Angler.'''' 30 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ENTRANCE TO THE PITTSFIELD CEMETERY MAPLEWOOD INSTITUTE One of the most prominent institutions of Berkshire for many years was Maplewood Institute, a seminary for the instruction of young ladies. It was so well known and so popular all over the country, and so far in advance of its time as to give a deserved celebrity to Pittsfield, and materially add to her reputation as an educational center. This institution and the Berkshire Medical college, which ranked among the first of its class; the half-dozen famous schools for young men and young women which contemporaneously by N.S.Dodge as a board- ing school for girls. During this brief re- gime, which in all covered but a few years, the middle build- ing of the three was burned to the ground and the school was given up altogether. In 1841 be- gan the real ex- istence of the Young Ladies' Institute. In November Mr. and Mrs. Tyler commenced their school with only eight pupils, but such was the reputation of Mr. Tyler, and the quality of the school he established, that in less thanfouryears it had increas- ed to more than one hundred boarding pupils, overflowing the buildings and coloniz- ing in the neighboring houses. The day school had experienced an even more phenomenal growth, for no less than sixty girls from the town itself had availed themselves of these opportunities. The school was known as the Pitts- field Youhg Ladies' Institute. The months of May and October were the only vacations, the anniversaries occurring the last of September, and the school year beginning in November; nor were holidays allowed to interfere with study and discipline, with a single exception ; although nothing was known of Christmas, the Fourth of July was abundantly and suitably celebrated ! The cost of an education at this, one of the best and most fashionable schools of its time, reads somewliat curiously to-day. In 1844, ^170 a year covered the expenses of the boarding pupils, unless they chose to pursue music at $10 per quarter, the classics at $3 each, or French at JS5. And the day scholars might get the basis of their education for $12 or #28 a year, ac- cording to their ages! It must be concluded that even then these were hardly adequate prices, or that fashion changed all that, for when Mr. Tyler left the school ten years later, these figures had more than doubled, and ex- penses were otherwise greatly increased, though still coming so far below the modern idea, as to seem absurdly small. In 1847 the tide of prosperity was THE CATHOLIC CKMETEKY A ROAD IN THE CEMETERT or successively dwelt within her borders, long gave a widespread and enviable reputation to this Berkshire town, and in large meas- ure determined her well-known character as an intellectual center. It is more than possible that the underlying reason for the entire change into a busy commercial community, and the consequent revolution in her social atmosphere, is connected with the deca- dence of these institutions of learning. In 1841 Rev. William Hart Tyler, a brother of the famous pro- fessor of Greek at Amherst college, secured the property known in local parlance as the case might be either as the Cantonment grounds or the Gymnasium buildings. Already this property had experienced a varied and not inconspicuous history. Almost at the beginning of the war of 1812, the government established there a " Cantonment " for military encampment. Three plain wooden buildings served as barracks for the new soldiers, while the " Light Dragoons " encamped on the meadow. A year later the fortunes of war turned this post into a military prison, and sometimes as many as two thousand prisoners were crowded within its limits. Upon the close of the war the Cantoement grounds were sold at auction to Lemuel Pomeroy, who replace^ the old wooden barracks by three substantial brick buildings built on the same unattractive models as their predecessors, and Prof. Charles Dewey opened there a preparatory school for Williams college. It was known, with some pretense at foreign ways, as the Berkshire Gymnasium. After nine years of successful and famous existence, various causes operated to close this school, and the buildings were then occupied THE CEMETERY DUCKS PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 31 PECK'S UPPER, MILL ON THE BANKS OF THE WEST BRANCH OP THE HOtrSATONIC had been the home of the First parish, and Mr. Tyler bought the structure, moved it to the rear of his new chapel, and turned it into a gymnasium of re- markable amplitude and convenience for that day. These four buildings, the East building, the West building, the Chapel and the Gymnasium, set in the midst of their beautiful grounds, constituted the school as it was.known to gener- ations of fortunate schoolgirls, for more than forty years. It may not be uninteresting to quote from a little old catalogue of 1846, the de- scription of the grounds as they looked to the pedagogical and parental eye of that date, "A Ijrge part of the original twenty acres," says this enticing catalogue: — such that Mr. Tyler felt amply justified in replacing the burnt dormitory with a some- what elaborate chapel of Grecian architecture, being an exact reproduction of one of the famous temples to Minerva. Its general style, dignified aspect — in particular such details as the marble floor, laid in alternate blocks of the blue and the white limestone of the county — testified to the aesthetic and intellectual atmosphere of the institution. Four years later a fire badly damaged the old church in the town, which since 1794 A GLIMPSE OF RUSSELL S WOOLEN MILLS e. , -^«L ^ >1 . ,-. . peck's lower mill WOODS AND MEADOWS NEAR THE CEMETERY Known as the military fferounds,— from their association (Iwith the scenes of the last war, are 'still within the enclosure of the institute. "Four acres are laid out in a circular garden, sloping from the green in front of the building towards the south, surrounded and intersected by spacious gravel walks, ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, tastefully set off with parterres and arbors, and enlivened by an artificial fountain. Grounds at once so ample, retired and beauti- ful, present every inducement for physical exercise, where, without exposure to passers by, the pupils engage in the various sports which taste and health may require, enjoy their walks, their conversation, their buoyant and gleesome laugh- ter and even their retirement, in the open air without danger of intru- sion from abroad or of becoming themselves an annoyance to others. The circular walk enclosing the garden and one-fourth of a mile in length is used by the pupils for equestrian exercises, while every week in suitable weather they are carried abroad a few miles for exercise and relaxation, among TREES AND GABLES BY THE STKEAM-SIDE 32 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE HilNi; INT(; PONTOOSIit' VILI A(JK the scenes of novelty and beauty which abound on every side. And for this purpose the insti- tute is furnished with conven- ient and elegant carriages seat- ing from twenty-five to thirty at a. time. As a further means of securing health, there is attach- ed to the establishment a bath- ing house, retired, commodious, and fitted up with every con- venience for warm and cold ablutions, and no one of these advantages is attended with ad- ditional expense ! " Among the new ideas domesticates! here by Mr. Tyler, were' the estab- lishment of a board of trustees, decidedly an in- novation in a private school, and the " Examin- ing Committee," selected yearly from- persons of experience and acquire- ments, who examined the progress and considered A BACK-YARD GROUl* be despised to-day, and which was much more advanced than that required by later patrons of the school. The text- books used are now indeed somewhat antiquated, but they were the best in their day, and the subjects studied there by the schoolgirls of 1844 bear comparison not unfavorably with those pursued by their grandchildren in the colleges of 1884. And it must be remembered that these girls were much younger than the modern college student. One who was still in school at nineteen, was so old as SVMMEK ON PONTOOSUC LAKE to be an object of equal interest and dismay ! Special attention was paid to music ; as it was the intention to make this a musical center, no pains nor money were spared to that end. Shortly, other and more startling ideas came to Professor Tyler. Already he was using in his classes the written questions he had pre- viously used in his classes at Amherst college when a tutor there, and it was not a very long ^tep practically when A WIKTEK St'NSBT A MILL 1'0>U the needs of the school, making a report^of its condition. This valuable feature did much for the institution with the public. Such was the famous school in its early days, or rather, such was its outward and visible form. The "inward and spiritual grace" was equally advanced and remark- able. Professor Tyler was an extraordinary man. At a very early date he saw the need and the possibility of what we call to-day the "higher education" of women. The eai-liest catalogues give us a curriculum which in its essential features is not to A iiUIET DAY PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 33 in 1845 he arranged the curricu- lum of the school in a regular course of four years and his first class of eight young women was graduated. In an educational way it was a tremendous stride, however, almost a leap in the dark, for only two schools for young women had preceded him in such a daring experiment. In like fashion he introduced, at a very early date, "Calisthenics," developing into gymnastics as time and knowledge advanced, to the mingled admiration and horror of the community. The earliest catalogue reveals more- over that if French was inex- pensive, it yet was correct, for the instruction was given by a native Frenchman, a rare privi- lege in those days. Very early, too, appeared scientific appa- ratus and other departures in the way of scientific learning very new for women. " Object teach- ing," the great ide?, that had invaded the kingdom of learners, and was shortly to revolutionize all their ways, was a favorite idea with Mr. Tyler. It so per- vaded all the work of the school, that however crude its methods', its main principle, that of teaching the mind to think for itself, was so inwrought in the mental fiber of the pupils as to cause the actual de- ficiencies of the education of that time to disappear before the mental strength engendered. A distin- guished observer has said of this remarkable man, that in his mind indomitable energy to execute and far-reaching sagacity to contrive, were happily blended. Perhaps no more noticeable evidence of this can be given than the fact that in 1853 he called together a convention of distinguished educators to consider the practicability of turning his school into an actual woman's college. The work of Mrs. Tyler was as much a feature of the school as that of her husband's. Her careful attention to the social edu- cation of the girls committed to her charge was no less valuable thanthe other side of their instruction. Morals, manners and even the fashions of the day, were instilled by precept and example. To produce educated women, who should-yet be gentlewomen, was the aim of this seminary, and it is little wonder that undersuchcontrolitwas a favorite and fashion- able schojl, combining in some ways the later popalirity of Farmingto.i and Vassar, and occupy- ing a similar position in the educational world, to either or perhaps both of those institu- tions. So wide-spread was its popularity that at one time it contained pupils from every state in the Union, and that from the families best known in social and public circles. It reached such distinction as to become the subject of a well-known caricature. Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes, sometime resident in Pittsfield, succumbing to a highly influential social preju- dice originating in local quar- ters, made it a feature of his story of ' ' Elsie Venner, " under a most unfair disguise. The car- icature was so extreme, however, that it had little effect, and was probably seldom recognized. It was always the same school though time and circumstances changed its methods somewhat. In 1854, at the height of its popu- larity, after more than twelve years of real and wonderful suc- ^. THE VIEW OF roNTOOSUC LOOKING KOUTIl TOWARD GREYLOCK I'OXTUOt^UC IN Tllli DAYS OF' THE FIRST SKTTLKKS A PICTUKKSCfUE BIT Oi' THE XOUTH SHORE cess, private reasons induced Mr. Tyler to sell the school to Prof. J. H. Agnew, a man of considerable literary distinc- tion, who carried it on along the same lines for three years. The school at this time also began to feel the interest in sesthetic.=, developing throughout the coun- try, and its more solid features were to some extent superseded by the new accomplishments, especially drawing and painting, wliich shortly took on much im- portance in its scheme of study. Prof. Agnew's interest in and devotion to literature, his high- bred courtesy and air of distinc- tion created an intellectual and aesthetic atmosphere, and gave a distinct character to this school for the few years dur- ing which he remained there. Financial reasons somewhat affected the prosperity of the institution' and eventually led to a change of ownership. In 1857 the school was sold to Rev. C. V. Spear, who had long been- one of the principal members of its faculty. With him was associated Prof. James R. Boyd, but in i860 Mr. Spear assumed entire control of the seminary, which after this time remained in his possession until 1884, when it was given up altogether. Under Professor Agnew, the name was changed to Maple- wood Young Ladies' Institute, usually shortened to Maplewood Institute, and by that name it was known for the greater part of its life. The'high standard and great popularity of the school continued unabated. Perhaps it reached its zenith in 1864, at which time it was crowded with pupils — 201 in all. It had always had both a south- ern and western contingent and its patrons still continued to be the most prominent people of their region, while the large number of day scholars showed the confidence of the community which knew it best. The growth of the town had reduced the size of the grounds to the more manageable dimensions of nine acres, but the winding walk, the grove and garden of the flowery early catalogues remained, and like the buildings had added much of beauty and convenience. Vacations had also greatly increased and taken to themselves more at- tractive seasons. March; August and September- were all vacation months, and holidays were no - longer unknown. But with all its advantages, its expenses had not increased correspondingly. Three hundred and thirty dol- lars a year is a price which would seem something more than ridic- "* ulous to the proprietor of a fash- ionable school to-day. But no- where was an education at once solid and graceful to be more successfully obtained for the young lady of the period, before the war, than at Maplewood. Mr. Spear was a man of an exceptionally alert mind, much interested in the sciences, and anxious to avail himself of every new discovery. Exact and thorough, he felt that founda- tions must be perfect and knowl- edge certain, and on that basis he endeavored to build up. the structure of a general education. Careful to a fault, he spent his strength too much upon detail perhaps, but the versatile and non-persistent minds of young women needed such constant 34 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE NORTH ADAMS CESTKE A BLLUK1I> UtiAI.'D checks that it is not strange he should have despaired of any other method. Nevertheless, while he recognized that the de- velopment of new methods, and the experiments of new depar- tures, were not for such a school as his, but rather that he must lead his flock in sure paths, he was more than ready to pursue new paths so soon as he was con- vinced of their value. Just at this point, when the per- manency and continued success of this great school seemed assured, when its natural course was to re- turn to its earlier paths and fall into the new lines of the higher education just opening before the young women of the land, and perhaps to evolve into a wonikn's college, it received a fatal blow. In the summer of 1864 the school was devastated by an epidemic of typhoid fever, of a peculiarly virulent and fatal type. More than fifty cases occurred, thirteen of which resulted fatally. It was THK VILLAGK AKD TH K MOUNTAIJfS proved beyond a doubt that the disease resulted from local condi- tions. Sanitary science was then almost in its infancy, and much that was most harmful was the result of ignorance, rather than neglect. Nor was it ignorance of a culpable character, for it must not be forgotten how little was known of what is " A, B, C " to- day. It was the study of this very epidemic which, more than any other one thing, turned public attention to the causes of typhoid fever and its possible prevention. The suffering which fell upon this school was indeed in some sort a vicarious suffering of the whole community for its own ignorance, and the dreadful result did more than can now be measured for the safety and health of the whole public. The causes of the trouble were carefully removed, and there- after there was perhaps no safer school in the country in its sani- tary conditions, but the ijistitution only partially recovered from this CATHOLIC CHLKCa fROW ChSTKK STltKBT SUilMKK HTKKKT PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE blow. The public could not be expected to forget the past, or to run more risks. The school crept back into life somewhat slowly — and at first its scholars were drawn almost entirely from Pitts- field itself or from a very narrow circle, whence their health could be very carefully watched. In 1 866 it had returned almost to its former numbers and prosperity, and pupils were again drawn largely from the West, when a second blow fell with crushing force. In the spring of that year, several severe cases of cerebro- spinal meningitis occurred, with one death from that disease, re- sulting in a final loss of confidence in the school. The causes of this epidemic were never discovered and the highest medical authori- ties believed it to have no local cause whatever. But the public could not be made to believe that this was not a repetition of the first experience, and resulting from the same causes, and con- fidence could not be revived. GKETLOCK FHOSr FLORIDA MOUNTAIN 35 and suddenly from that season of business depression combined with other causes, and it never again regained a full comple- ment of pupils. In 1883, failing health com- pelled Mr. Spear to give up active work, and at that time he leased the school to Mr. Louis C. Stanton, who had been for some time one of his teachers, but this experi- ment lasted only a short time. Mr. Spear soon presented the property to Oberlin college, which, after due consideration of the field, and some futile experiments on its own account, eventually sold Maplewood for a summer hotel — a use to which the build- ings had already been put. The year 1884 was the last year that saw a school within its gates. For nearly seventy years, Maplewood had been an educational institu- tion. For more than forty it had sheltered a famous and popular school for girls. Thousands felt its molding power, and all over the country to-day matrons, young *! f MAIN STRERT NORTH ADAM> THF, LIBRARY Under these conditions, it be- came impossible to step forward into the new place required by the demands of the higher education, nor was it possible, on the other hand, to retain the fashionable character of the " Institute" as a finishing school. Mr. Spear, whose interest in the school was great, kept up the struggle gal- lantly, under considerable per- sonal strain, and sometimes at much financial loss, for some years longer. With the advent of Prof. B. C. Blodgett in 1867, music, as has been said, always a great feature of the education, was made a principal department, which largely increased the num- ber of scholars temporarily, and indeed during the rest of its exist- ence this became a central point of attraction. Thus the school at times almost regained something of its former popularity, and the financial depression of 1873 found ft with more than 150 pupils. For some reason it suffered greatly and old, testify to its great value, and dwell with affection upon its beauty and its power and influgnce for good. Certainly such an in- stitution deserves at least a back- ward glance from those who look upon its outward shell and wonder at the old-fashioned structure, or admire its famous trees. Anna L. Dawes. GRKYLOCK FROM ABOVE NORTH ADAMS A NEWSPAPER writer, once de- , scribing the personnel of certain picturesque (though highly re- spectable) officials who took part in a commencement day proces- sion at Williamstown, said : " The spotless white cravat and the un- diminished figure of Rev.'' Dr. Davis of Westfield, vice-president of the institution, surged in the throng. And among others pres- ent was Graham A. Root of Shef- field, sheriff of 'our county of Berkshire,' at whose hands, on ac- count of his politeness, a hanging would be shorn of half its terrors." 36 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE AX HISTORIC MILL JIAIN STRlUiT VHOM IHE WFST TEACHING IN A COUNTRY SCHOOL THE KOKTn ADAMS STATION ^-r--*\ A KOAU DOWN THE HILL fUOW TH IC KOUTii Berkshire's faculty for furnishing^reat men in an emergency has often been noted, and was thus once facetiously alluded to by Samuel Bowles, editor of the Springfield Republican, on the occasion of a political convention : " Hampden has but one man to offer, but up in Berkshire, where great men are plenty, the case is different. Barrington can furnish one, also Lee, and Pittsfield several, to say nothing about North Adams ! " If ever the old adage was falsified, it certainly was not in the fifties of this century, when one in her early teens made her maiden effort at teaching a country school on the bleak hill-tops of Western Massachusetts. There was no "royal road," but rugged and devious were the ways that led to these academic heights. In vain the panorama of mountain, vale and woodland appealed to the youthful imagination. Old Greylock with his cloud-encircled top pierced by rising sunbeams, or glorified by departing day, had no tale to tell the homesick girl of a world beyond with a larger outlook. Was it that the newer methods, which make the education of the young a A LOOK ACIIOSS THE VILLAGK TOWAUU TIIK KAST THE INDISPENSABLE MAN PICtlJRE.SQUE BERKSHIRE pleasant, instead of an arduous task, had not been dreamed of, or did the appreciation of the wonderful landscape need the discipline of maturer years ? The forest was the only witness of the silent tears ot the forlorn one, and the birds alone were benefited by the carefully pre- pared lunch. The first step in the formidable undertaking was the examination of teachers, usually held i1 UNION SCHOOL on the Saturday before the opening of the spring term, when the teachers from out of town were expected to have arrived. This was a painful ordeal for the young and timid Taeginner, for in addition to that digaified body the school committee, there were some teachers of mature years and large experience, who to the eye of the younger aspirant had little mercy upon her fearful, timid answers. The school committee usually consisted of the clergyman of the town and two other members. These last might be either some retired male teacher of advanced years or some farmer who had succeeded in acquiring a little more schooling than had the average of his class. There was no feminine element upon the school Jboard, at this time, to soften A TET DOG KMKKlNfi THK TOWN FHOM IHE W KsT BAPTIST CHURCH A GLIMPSP. OF THE ARNOLD PRINT WORKS 38 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE FAUM.S ON TMH NOIJTHRRX HILt.TOF MILLS BY THK STREAM and grace the proceedings. This rubicon successfully passed, the teacher was handed over to the care of the prudential committee of the district in which her lot was cast. Most happy was her fate if, as sometimes was the case, that committee was a just and conscientious man, a leader in the social and religious life of the community, with a wife from the best nurtured of the New England liFXlH CVTIIOI.H I'l'rscOPAL cnriicil farmer community. Quite otherwise was her fate if some neighborhood feud of long standing existed, and the committee was a hard man, unyielding and narrow minded. In that case, although in his self-willed obstinacy he might stand by the teacher of his choice, even to the extent of producing a rawhtde for her use, yet tlic other party to ihe quarrel would as zealously assert his rights, and ABOVE THE TOWN' the path of that teacher would be filled with pitfalls for lier unwary feet. Happily, the teacher of to-day has no district committee with neighborhood prejudices to stand between her and the higher body. Another trial to which she was subjected was the boarding round among the families of the pupils, this supposed to be a necessity in order to eke out the teacher's small salary. Again was the poor teacher fortunate when her turn came to spend- the week with the one or two cultured and more prosper- ous farmers, or with the physician or clergyman of the village. More frequently the term was lengthened out to three or four weeks with some poorer, ignorant people of large families, and direst condition of all from which she shrank most was the sharing her sleeping apartment with one of the most undesirable of her flock. At this time, instead of choosing the pleasantest and easiest time of travel in the year, the two school terms were taught, the one in the hottest, the other in the mostinclement season. Oa one bitter December night, after a weary day, the teacher climbed a hill of nearly CO.NGKEGATIOSAL CHURCH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE BLACKIXTUN RESXDBNCK HESIDKSCK, Of UEORGK W. CHASE length of the alternate week to the unhappy one who was not near enough to return to the home fireside. The schoolrooms of those days were not made attractive with charts, maps and appliances to make teach- ing interesting, neither was it considered important that the taste be cultivated by papered and tinted walls ; indeed, in one in- stance at least the dilapidated portion of one NORTH ADAMS AS IT WAS HESIDENCE OF H. TOKREY CADY two miles in length, as the concession of board- ing at that place before the deep snows should arrive was granted. In vain the young, home- sick girl sought some scrap of reading to beguile the long, weary evening. At last she succeeded in unearthing a small volume telling the thrill- ing story of some Siberian exiles, and by the dim light of a tallow candle, with a sympathetic heart, she lost herself in their greater woes. The lot of the teacher of those days was not ameliorated by the frequent observances of re- ligious and patriotic holidays, the only recog- nized ones. Fourth of July and Thanksgiving day, were carefully arranged for outside the regular school term, and the Saturday holiday allowed only once in two weeks. And oh ! the SLIDING TIME J> TUK WKSTKBN VIIJ,AS THK HILLS 'I U THE EAST country in her need, and they are remembered upon Decoration day by their com- rades in arms and a grateful nation. STATE STREET hamlet set upon a lofty hill-top went out some to fill responsible and honorable places in the world's arena. One became an honored pupil and associate in the short-lived but famous Agassiz school on Penikese Island. Another was a teacher for years in one of our most famous young ladies' colleges. Another fills with honor that profes- sion so eminently appropriate for women, who are the healers as well as the teachers of the nation. Of those young men whose records we seek, several served their A Day in the Country. — " The meal proceeds. This butter is from our cows. This is cheese which grandmother made. The bread is so white, the currants so red, the shaved beef so country like, the tea just as good as city tea. The boys are bursting to narrate the wonders of their experi- ence. The wood- ■■..'km. chucks, the squir- ' rels, the hawks, were all chroni- cled; the rides, the accidents, .the hens' nests found, and a ■world of eager news were set forth. Each boy was eager to go forth and show us all the wonders of the new place ; the barn, the woodhouse, the well, the great elm tree, the cel- lar, the garret, the orchard and the garden." — Star rUperS, ^^jj IMVERbAIlsT UHL KOH 42 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE favored few whose ardor and devotion leads them far astray from beaten tracks of com- merce and " crowded hives of men." How much of pleasure one may find in woodland walks and forest glades — the golden sunlight darts here and there among the trees and, touching first a leaf then fern orbit of moss or lichen-covered bark, brings out their gracefulness most perfectly. Ti ; n i i*"T 'Jllli HOSPITAL WOODLAND TRAMPS Full half the charm and beauty of the Berkshire hills is lost to all who know them only from the highway. That half — the better share — is found by lake and stream, in wood and mead, upon the mountains' sides and on their wind-swept crests. Nature is always at her best when man is least conspicuous: 'tis true she offers here and there along the wayside glimpses of pleasing form touched up with bits of dainty coloring, but all her fairest works of floral wealth and land- scape beauty she hides securely from vulgar eyes, sharing them only with the LUOlCINr; INTO TlllC VILLAGE KliUM THE NORTHERN HILL OX TIIL sold II IJLANt II OF THE HOO.SAC M-:w LKIVEIISALIST CIU'ltCH In every hook beneath the sheltering arms a host of wild flowers find congenial homes. The hardy liverleaf is first to make its spring debut, while April charges vainly at the snowy ramparts of old Marius. There are two forms of this Hepatica, known by the segmentation of the foliage. A sort with sharp-lobed leaves and white or slightly pink or bluish-tinted flowers is most often found, while one with rounded lobes and deep-blue flowers is not rare. Mingled with these in open upland woods are tall Canadian violets,- whose seemingly pure white petals are externally purple — the largest and finest of our many species, of which the yellow sorts, both stem- less and caules- cent, together wi th rostrata and sylvesfris, are quite plentiful. Here, too, are clumps of purple trilliums, and In- dian turnips — a vile slander on the red man — cut leaved and white VIvAZIK .STKEKT .SCHOOL PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 43 l:i>[i>i;xcK fickle bloodroot, too — how various are the memories that word recalls — in truth it is a pretty flower, though so fragile, and, later in the season when its rank leaves are fully grown, makes quite a foliage effect among the underbrush. Our rocky ledges furnish species no less interesting — bright columbines im- properly called honeysuckles, and little mayflowers, a term unlimited in applica- tion, but here intended for the early saxi- frage and not for the arbutus which is so common in rich upland woods. This little rock breaker, such is the meaning of its Latin name, bears-quite a contrast to the homely species found in swampy lands, and being easy to transplant and cultivate deserves a place in every shaded lawn. Occasionally one comes across a soli- tary bush of barberries, showy alike in flower and in fruit, a straggler from some yard or garden plot, its pendent racemes of small, yellow roses — the very picture of sweet innocence — offering a set of roguish traps for each unwary bee. The stamens are laid back against the floral leaves, but let an insect touch the inner basis of the filaments and up they spring quite to the ovary and stigma, a delicate arrange- ment to insure perfection of the fruit. Allied to the berberis, but in no way re- sembling it, or for that matter one another, are the may apple and the blue cohosh. Both are perennial woodland herbs; the i;F-IEiKXrE OF COL. JOHN B K ACEWKl.L dentarias with spicy root stocks far more edible; — ground nuts, that little plant which causes so much trouble to the bota- nists seeming now rue and now anemone, or neither one, yet very like them both. Its larger relative, the early woodrue, is more reasonable and quite content to be a true thalictrum. The pale spring beauty with unpleas- ant odor, ill deserves its name, but for- tune's favors are not always just. And the true O. spectabilis — the only one that botanists have left us in that genus — which opens its few showy flowers in May or early June to the wax-flowered Jacob's ladder with its spiral spike which dots the moister meadows in October. Ragged, fringed orchids in purple, green and white, as well as several .V |)0\\XLOOK Fi:0-M THE MOUNT \IN UKaivliV AlOKT — PUBLIC PARK former variously known as mandrake, um- brella plant, wild lemon, Indian apple and the like, conceals its beautiful white flower, of which it has no need to be ashamed, under a pair of broad, web-footed leaves. The blue cohosh is a more common plant with regularly triternate foliage and uncon- spicuous flowers. While yet quite young its seeds enlarge so as t BLACKINTOX flapped and snapped, the mud flew and it seemed as if I was to be blown off the hill. I hastened the horse and some distance beyond drove under an open shed by the roadside. A house was near and I ran up to it to ask shelter. The kind old lady who came to the door did not give me time to speak, but said, " Come right in out of this dreadful storm." She made me very comfortable by the kitchen stove, and was good enough to go down cellar and get a pan of apples to regale me with. The weather held threatening all day, though the hardest of the rain was presently over. The valleys were misty and the near moun- tains were shut from sight half way down by the clouds, and the wind rattled and surged around unceasingly. It was four in the afternoon when I left. I would gladly have stopped all night, but All I O l!l. \' UIN 1 ■ 1> IIIK VILI.AGK 48 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE could not, because all the extra bed-ticks were in the wash. However, I was advised that I could without doubt get a place at the second house up the road toward "the Notch." With this I started. The wind was still fierce and the air misty. At the place I had been directed to, a man was sawing boards by the roadside. He would keep me, he said, if he had a place for my horse, but he'd got the barn floor torn up. There were three brothers lived up the road toward the Notch, mighty nice folks, too; he knew very well I could get kept there. I drove on. At the home of the three brothers some men were at a shed hitching up a horse. They would keep me, they said, but they had no place for my team. But I could get kept a little ways up the road, indeed, most any one would keep me. The next likely house was one near a big watering trough. Two men came out on the piazza in response to my knock. They, likewise, had no place for my A WINTER SUKSKT CHUKNIKG DAT white cottage at the end of the road. The man was at the barn and I had to drive across the yard to it and hunt him up to get my horse taken care of. He was nowhere to be seen. I hallooed in a door and frightened a cow and a calf. I thought I stirred up the man, too, though I could not see him, and I was still looking in that door when he appeared around the corner of the barn, outside. The little place, hemmed in as it was that night by the fog-veiled hills, seemed to me very charming and the morning view was no disappointment. The day opened bright, breezy and sunlit. Wind clouds were sailing in the blue sky and trailed fine patches of blue shadow over the landscape. Across a deep ravine ran a steep mountain ridge and there was a beautiful outlook down the road of fields, orchards and distant valleys and hill ranges. It would be difficult to find a prettier place for a country drive or vacation than the Notch. I made an early start, but stopped just beyond the first house down the road to get a photograph. horse, were overcrowded with stock — even the barn floor was filled with sheep. They recommended the place beyond — I could get kept there — they had plenty of room up there. I continued to climb the hill. At the back door of the next house were a number of men, sheep and turkeys. The men were awfully sorry, they would like to keep me, but their barns were so crowded they had to keep these cosset sheep in the woodshed, and they ha^ no place for my horse. I could get kept at the next place, sure. If I couldn't, come back and they would take care of me somehow, if they had to keep my horse in the " parlor. The way wended upward, hemmed in by misty mountains. „ As I went on two dogs followed me from the last place, barking savagely till they lieard a hound baying on the mountain, opposite, when they stopped and gave him their attention. The people at the next house gave me the shelter I had been so long seeking. It was a pleasant. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 49 THt; COUNTRY SCHOOL TEACHER TBK IiOAI> DOWN THE NOTCH THE NOTCH CASC^UK I left my horse and went some distance across a field for the purpose. While I was making ready my horse began to walk along. I shouted, " Whoa," again and again, left my camfera and and ran to stop her. She then broke into a trot, and, to add to difficulties, the two dogs whose ac- • i/ '^^"^-^l^ .V* •«**.«»»•-> great mountain ranges flanking on either hand its mild meadows. Zylon- ite is Adams' northernmost village, and Renfrew its second, both manufac- turing places with great modern mills and long lines of monotonous brick SUMMER FIELDS quaintance I made the night before, at that moment came barking down the road. I was frightened at this and thought a runaway unavoidable. But the climax came suddenly. The horse stopped at a pool in the road and began to drink and some one ran out from the house and called off the dogs. I hitched the horse to a fence before I went back to my camera. The road I traveled was the one I had come up on the evefting previous and I con- tinued on it down the hill to Blackinton. This is a manufacturing village. It has pleas- ant meadows about, and some fine residences and handsome elms at the center, and the village looks toward the fine mountain ranges southward. Greylock village is in charac- ter and surroundings much like Blackinton, but has a newer look. Just outside the village to the west was once a famous battle ground of the whites and Indians. There stood Fort Massachusetts, the most exposed of the line of frontier fortifications. In a cornfield on its site now grows a thrifty young elm planted some years ago to commemo- rate the spot. I passed through North Adams and on its eastern outskirts made a picture of some teams grading down a steep hill, with the Greylock ranges behind making a mighty back£;round. My route lay down the valley t« Adams, and a noble valley it is with the 1W» R»AD tr TBI NOTCH so PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE but the farmer with whom I staid knew no more of the persons buried there and why it was so neglected than I did. A short walk from the house in another direction are the Whit- ford Rocks. This rough ledge has many visitors and its attractions '' A ' .-I'JUNG woi:k in Tllr: NOTC:r mill houses where tlie oper.iuves make their homes. In Adams, itself, manufacturing is predominant and the valley level is largely given up to the mills and homes of the operatives. I did not linger long in the town, for gloomy clouds had been rolling up in the northwest that threatened rain, and I YllOM A JIOrNTAIK SIDE AA I^lEULSTl^t. ll.fcl wished to get as far as possible in my journey toward home. At Cheshire I turned up the hill eastward, and by that time the sun had set and I sought lodging at a farmhouse. In the morning I looked around. Far across the valley, northerly, Greylock raised its blue summit high in air and all along the west were handsome lesser ridges. In a scrubby pasture not far away was a deserted burying ground, fenceless and forlorn to the last degree. Most of the stones were fallen and half covered by the moss and grasses. The dates were of the last part of the last century and the first part of this. TUK FKIKND BY TIIK WAYSIDi: '■ S'1M|;SI-;'S AKY BKKUIKH UVKU 'IHKllKV" ON GKEYLOCK are various. The rocks have on one side an irregular ascent clothed with bushes and small trees. On the other it falls away abruptly to the field below in a perpendicular descent of many feet. Over this the gentleman whose name the rocks bear fell or threw himself years ago and met his death. Like- wise, no less a personage than the devil has an interest in the spot, for here is a deep hollow in the rocks, partly filled with water, which is known as the Devil's Washbowl. Last, and perhaps not least, the rocks are clothed, in their season, with clouds of laurel blos- soms, the only ones which grow in a ten-mile circuit. Truly, it is a place worth visiting. The road to Windsor was all up hill, my host told me, and he was >VKi: 'S' M.K THE i;0 \l. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE right with a vengeance. Much of the way led through the woods where were many ragged fields which had been cut over, now wastes of brush and stumps. At the points where there were breaks in the forest, there were fine back views of Greylock. The mud grew worse and worse as I went on and the road was much drifted with snow. I calculated my progress to be about a mile an hour. At length the path left the snowy highway and meandered about the water-soaked pastures. I followed this black trail of mud wherever it led, through bogs and over stone walls and numberless hummocks 51 ON GBETLOCK SUMMIT the tricklings from that give it a muddy green hue that it keeps for miles. When I came out of the woods at West Cummington, I was in Hampshire county, and whatever further adventures I had on my homeward trip are, of course, excluded from this Berkshire narrative. A GAMPEB S TEST AT SIGHT till it again entered the main road. In spite of mud, ruts and snow, I in time came to the village of Windsor Hill. Flocks of sheep were picking about the brown fields among the snowdrifts, and were the chief signs of life, though the cross- roads' store and the black- smith's shop were open forbusiness. Butthelittle village on its great, roll- ing hill-slopes, with dips here and there into wide, wooded valleys, was pecu- liarly attractive; and all those roads criss-crossing TITK WIt.l.IAMSTOWX STAGE about the stone-walled fields must be well worth following. When I passed the white church and town-house, I encountered a young man with whom I exchanged some remarks about the lateness of the snow. He said if I was in- terested in that sort of thing 1 could find a drift twenty feet deep over there on a near hill. But 1 was fully satisfied with those I had already traveled through, and I spattered along down the muddy road to East Windsor. This village is in a tumbled glen where two mountain streams meet. It has two or three small, wooden mills and shops, and a bit of a church set off in a field entirely outside the group of village houses. The brook water was very clear here, but down the hill the stream skirts an enormous clay cliff, and WILD WINDS W ILLlAMSTliW.N Oh ! oh ! how the wild winds blow ! Blow high, Blow low, And the whirlwinds go To chase the little leaves that fly. Fly low and high, To hollow and to steep hillside : They shiver in the dreary weather, And creep in little heaps together, And nestle close and try to hide ; Oh, oh, how the wild winds blow ! Blow low. Blow high. And the whirlwinds try To find a crevice, to find a crack, — They whirl to the front, they whirl to the back; But Tommy and Will and Baby, together. Are snug and safe from the winter weather. All the winds that blow Cannot touch a toe, Cannot twist or twirl One silky curl ; Though they rattle the door in a noisy pack The blazing fires will drive them back. Mrs. M. F. Butts, in Youth's Comf anion. 52 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE M< • llli A.T THU STATI«K -^rr ' \ \l I "^ I A ''•ly' . 'i A> %1 ^ 3f/ 1 - h / \; <'t*m St: . ONE OF THE OLD MASSIOKS GREAT ORIGINS IN BERKSHIRE In the " Professor at the Breakfast Table," Dr. Holmes makes this claim : "Boston has opened and kept open, more turnpikes that lead straight to free thought, and free speech, and free deeds than any other city of live men or dead men;" and in order to balance his claim and keep the eastern end of the state from sinking into the ocean from sheer weight of merit, we will make the counter- claim, that Berkshire has produced a race, which for independent thought, daring schemes and achievements that have had world-wide consequences has not been surpassed. We claim also that more of those first things that draw the chariot FKENCH CATHOLIC CHURCH ANP VICIKITT ii ''^""'-^""■^''fiifiifl «BIFFIN HALL REStDEKOE OF FRESIDEHT OARTSB PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 53 ' J- <\~ \f/MI // H ,■>% hKLTA >'S1 BnrsE LOOKING TOWARD THS METHODIST CHURCH o£ progress forward so that people can see that it has moved, have been planned and executed by the inhabitants of the 950 square miles that constitute the territory of Berk- shire, than can be credited to any other tract of equal extent in the United States. Men who were liable to be killed and scalped at any moment, learned to think quickly and to the point without waiting to find out the opinions of other men, and so as we should naturally expect, men who had lived, — with eyes and ears wide open, — through the " era of provocation and preparation," in which George III had been studying new ways ^•~V<, f^io^ ' i. ji»\ ' » f ' \ MORGAN HALL in which to wring more taxes from his American subjects, were ready to re- sist the royal grab-game in every possible way, and their first aggressive action was to establish a boycott on those things whence the filling of his coffers was to come. All over the state, assemblages of citizens — generally called Congresses — were held to "take into consideration the alarming state of public affairs," but it was prompt, wide-awake Berkshire which took definite action first. [The action taken was similar to that described in the resolutions known as the "Lenox Covenant,'' given on page 8 of Part II.] Then these God-fearing patriots communicated their action to the pastors of the churches — at that time the sources and centers of influence — and appointed a solemn day of fasting throughout the county, in which they went to church, and listened to political boycotting sermons from men who believed '■' -^i WIKTIR OK THK »Tlt«K* college: chapel 54 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE (.JKEYLOCJi HULSK WKST C0LLK<;E that political responsibilities rate as important as any in the eye of that God who has seen fit to place man in communities whose existence depends on the fulfillment of mutual duties. The men of Berkshire had but few luxuries, — they bravely determined to go without these, and the women were not a whit behind, for they not only decided to forego their tea, but resolved to wear only a black ribbon around the neck in sign of mourning for their " nearest and dearest." This action on the part of Berkshire was soon followed throughout the state, but it was the dwellers among these glorious hills who gave the cue. Five weeks later a town meeting was held in Pittsfield to consider the threatened revocation of the state charter, and they said, " We believe it to be of the greatest importance, that the people of this Province utterly refuse submission to said acts, * * ♦ and that the courts of justice immediately cease and that the people of this province fall into a state of nature, until our grievances are fully redressed by a final repeal of these injurious, oppressive, and unconstitutional acts," etc., etc. The Court was to sit in September at Great Barrington, but when the sheriff. WILLIAMSTOIVN KLM& according to ancient custom, commanded the people to make way for "the court," he spoke to an assemblage of Berkshire yeomanry, who to the number of 1,500 had assembled for resistance to the " Royal Court of Injustice," and filled the court-house and the space about it, and told the sheriff that to no laws but the ancient ones would they give way on any terras. The royalists thought order — submission to the king after the revocation of the charter — would soon be restored, but no other court ever sat in Berkshire under the royal authority, and Governor Gage wrote home to England : " A flame sprang up at the extremity of the province. * * * The popular rage is very high in Berkshire and EAST COLLEGE J.\- WILLIAMSTOWK STREET MAKK HOFKINS MEMORIAL BflLDIKG PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 55 LAWRENt-K LlBUAIty makes its way rapidly to the rest." The judges retired from Great Barring- ton, to insure their safety, and the duty of " obstructing " the courts was inculcated all over the state, from the pulpit and platform and by the wayside, but the Berkshire CongresS and active opposition was a beacon light, an- swering back to the torches that lighted the pouring of the tea into Boston harbor, and did much to consolidate the sentiments of those who could not see with the statesman's prescient eye. One of the most intense and eager patriots of the state, who had much to do in the moulding of the new order of things after the revolution, was Hon. Theodore Sedgwick of Stockbridge. Here in a house still standing, there was born on December 28, 1789, his illustrious daughter — Catherine Maria Sedgwick — who was the first among American women to achieve a ALPHA iJKr.TA rm hou^k VIf,l,\<;B KOOFH ANN S1'1I!KS liKblUtiVUK OK a. T. I'KOCTOK true fame in literature — to produce books which not only delighted the cultivated and literary classes, and were read by thousands of the plain people here, but were ap- preciated in England, and reproduced there, and translated into many of the continental languages, by sheer force of their own merits and their picturesque style, and that, too, just at the time when the brilliant and genial Sidney Smith was asking the; '^m HOMES 0>" THE STREET LASI;;\-M'', (lYMN-AHIVM, 56 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ^v^. UuysES WEbT OF THE PAICK contemptuous question that has cost his reputation so cruellj', " Who reads an American book ? " It is difficult to describe to this volume-surfeited generation the sensa- tion caused by "A New England Tale," put forth by its author with many misgivings in 1822. It was a genuine book — had pictures of life and people not before described, and sent back an echo to the writer which sustained her while producing " Red- wood," which came out two years later and producedagenuine literary furore. What it was to the women of America, no words can tell. They felt that through this priestess of the imagina- UAYliTAGK UUMLMiiM' TV-ILLIAMSTOWK FROM AK OLD PEIKT five, the whole land had experienced an anointing from the chrism of the immortals, and to-day among all the flood of books, no purer, fresher % pictures of life and human nature can be found than in her numerous novels, and when she was fifty she wrote a series of "Letters from Europe," which surpass in charm any of the recent hurried, alleged descriptions, contained in the rapid tours, which consist mainly of arrivals and de- partures at railway stations. She may be called a woman who had dared, and she held that the posses- sion of a talent was sufficient warrant for its use, and she is always seeing new opportunities for women, and perceiving ways in which their status and condition can be amelio- rated. Many of the accomplished facts in their activities now, were HASK HOPKINS TACOWIC llfM THF, ilAitii HOPKINS HOi'SE cm P81 ][«usi PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE CONGREGATIONAL CHUECH her dreams half a century ago. She is a bright star in the Berkshire galaxy, and apropos of women and their doings, it is not amiss to mention that Miss Susan B. Anthony is a native of Adams in Berkshire. Up to 1864 there stood in the center of Pittsfield park a tree known far and wide as " The Old Elm " — an original forest — tree that sent out no branch till it was ninety feet high, and above that bore a rounded crown of greenery that carried its height up to 128 WATER STREET / -|"*' ir |{ (HI? CLARK HALL TWO OF THE THOMPSON' LABORATORIES feet. Its loftiness and symmetry had so appealed to the men of the time, that it had been spared in the general denudation of the land, and it had re- mained a conspicuous object and a celebrated landmark up to 1790, when a new meeting-house was to be built, and the same sort of vandal was living then as now, who, to raise or depress a sidewalk a foot, will sacrifice one of God's beautiful green trees that it has taken three centuries to produce. It was proposed to cut down this tree, so that the front of the meeting-house could occupy its place. Madame Lucretia Williams threw herself between the axeman and the tree to save it, and defied him to go on although the axe had already struck three blows. She was the wife of the principal magistrate of the town, and the axeman was awed into desisting, till a further consulta- tion could be held. The reprieve was improved by her husband to good ■x'a HOMES EAST OF THE HILL LOOKING TOWARD THE TOWN FROJI WATER STREET 58 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 'iiiiiiiiiiiiii! iiiiiifiiii^ :MILL HU5IES NEAR THE STATION purpose, for he made a proposition to give as much land from his acres south of the tree for a public park, as the authorities would give by setting their church back to the north. Successive strokes of lightning finally destroyed the tree, but not till its foreseen destruction had been discounted by planting a circle of elms about it, and so to a plucky woman is Pittsfield indebted for its pretty green centerpiece. We have recalled the old elm, because it was the rallying place for all festive and important out-of-door occasions, and beneath its spreading branches in i8io was held the first cattle show and agricultural fair, which was a ..J > WINTERlLANDSCAPE true farmer's holiday, recognizing that men must be entertained and amused at times, as well as to have opportunities to claim well-won prizes. This became the model and pattern for similar fairs throughout the land, and affords a striking example of the thriving of a, cause that is championed by one of those enthusiasts reproachfully called one-idea men, and hobby-riders. The belief that great good might be effected by improving the breeds of domestic animals, had taken possession of Mr. Elkanah A\ HOUSE Con the otjtskikts ENTUANUEVro FLOKA'b GLEN A EARM IN THE VALLEY PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ..■ y-T. 59 LOOKING TOWAKD THE MOUNTAIN A HAIM- DAY INDOOKK Watson, an accomplished and traveled man, of great versatility and fertility of mind, and for ten years it so dominated him that he says he "neglected his private affairs," but during that time, taught by the errors and blunders of other regions, he evolved the cattle show and agricul- tural fair into a stated festi- val, which was copied in all the length and breadth of the land. As the population of Berkshire increased, great- er efforts were constantly making to improve the means of communication with the outside world, for their isolation was the everlasting fly in the oint- ment of the Berkshire peo- ple ; but the hills could not be abolished, they must be A W001>LAND 8TKEAJ1 of enginei ring as to be visited and studied by foreign rail- road builders. Overcoming the first steep grade of eighty- five feet to the mile, had demonstrated that "impossi-, ble" was barred out of the railroad dictionary, and that no matter how formidaljle the moun- tain, its conquest resolved itself into engineering skill and an adequate amount of fuel. Compared with the ascent of Pike's Peak and the White IK IIOUSE-CLEASIXG TIME \/ . BERLIN PASS AND DODD S CONE, FROM BEE HILL surmounted, and there are some people living to-day who can recall the boundless jubila- tions when, on the 27th of December, 1841, the first railway train passed across the county to Albany, coming through the " deep cut " at Washington, then such a marvel A lUNTING tXlM-l;ITI<..N 6o PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ST. PATRICK'S CATHOLIC CHURCH mouiiiains, tliis seems very insignificant, but remember it was the first heavy grade conquered — As Tennyson says, " All can raise the flowers now For all have got the seed." Berkshire was now fully " joined on " to the new time and the modern era, but she still had another mighty first thing to create, in a marvel of man's power — in the boring of the Hoosac Tunnel, a glorious achievement, whether viewed from the standpoint of a triumph over natural obstacles, or that of the faith and indomitable perseverance of the men who finally saw their dream realized. OLD PLACE ON THE HOPPER ROAD TO SOUTH WILLIAMSTOWN a route for a canal from Bt^ton to some point in New York, and their report had been made in 1826. The engineer — Col. Loammi Baldwin, one of the most famous men of his day — finally fixed upon the exact route afterwards occupied by the Hoosac Tunnel, and proposed, to make a canal-tunnel as the least formidable solution of the problem. He made careful' and detailed estimates of the THE HIGH SCHOOL The completion of the Albany and Schenectady railroad in September, 1 83 1 , with great pomp and ceremony, am id unbound ed commercial rejoicings and the assured success of the Erie canal, sent an envious, bitter pang to the souls of Massachusetts states- men, because, as Charles Francis Adams says, "These ad- vances in New York had given anew and portentous significance to the Berkshire hills, causing them to throw a dark shadow over the future of Massachusetts. They seemed stationed on the western border of the state, an inseparable barrier, against which the eastward tide of commerce struck, and then with a deflected course flowed quietly in the direction of New York. Either in some way that barrier must be overcome or the material prosperity of the state would be seriously threatened." Previous to this, a commission had been appointed to survey GOODRICH BALL this by at least ten years, and had the benefit of the knowledge and experience gained in its construction, to help in pushing forward their own work. The experimental work on this was begun in 185 1, but not till twenty-four years after did the first car pass through it. The difiiculties overcome as new problems presented themselves would require a volume instead of a sketch, and the history of its finances alone would make an exciting chapter. Private capital fought shy of it, and there were long seasons when all work on it ceased, and all the world remembers Dr. Holmes' prophecy that when the first car should pass through it, people might don their ascension robes. When the war came, paralyzing great public projects, the wiseacres shook their heads, and said " that's the end of the Hoosac Tunnel," but the Berkshire '. ,*« • -i* * c «i:^: HATE SOME? cost of tunneling, and showed that the highest possible cost would be $^.2$ per cubic yard, and placed the sum total of expense at ^5930,832, while the actual cost of the railway tunnel when com- pleted, with all the aids that the most accomplished scientists and engineers could lend, was JS20 per cubic yard, and at a total cost of more than $10,000,000 ! J It must not be forgotten that the longer and more conspicuous Mont Cenis and St. Gothard tunnels in Europe were later in conception and execution than 8H001 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 6i WINDSOR JAMS — I men of whom it had taken possession, were not to be daunted and succeeded in tunnel- ing into the state treasury, and there was nothing for it, as the pessimists sadly said, but to "send good money after bad," and the state finally completed the work and on February 9, 1875, the first train of cars passed ^through its four and one-half miles, bear- ing some gray-headed men, the dream of whose middle life had at last material- ized. When begun, hand-drilling was used, and gunpowder was the only explosive known. The successive discovery of dyna- mite, and the power of compressed air, and the invention of the diamond drill facilitated gthe last half of the work immensely, and now as the traveler makes his comfortable trip through it, 1,028 feet under the moun- tain at its deepest point, he emerges into a very different world from that addressed by the writer in the Boston Courier, at the time the canal-tunnel was projected, who, having made a careful calculation, isaid it would "take fifty-two years and nineteen days to complete it, for, as C. F. Adams says, "it seems scarcely possible that any human life can have spanned the well-nigh incredible gap that separates the America of 1878 from that of 1830." It was the faith and indomi- table perseverance of Berkshire men who carried to completion the first great railway- tunnel of the world. Cyrus W. Field — the man who carried to its triumphant completion, in the face of WINDSOR JAMS — II ALLENVILLE tremendous odds, the first Atlantic cable, was born in Stockbridge. The story of " How Cyrus laid the cable," is familiar to every schoolboy, but not so obvious is it how he was appointed to the work by that providence of God which knows when and where to find its instruments in each generation — and puts a passion of enthusiasm into selected souls, that can know no rest till that which they have been set to do is accomplished. At thirty-five years of age Cyrus Field had accumulated a fortune, and achieved a high position in the business world — there was nothing in his outward life to prevent him from sitting at ease and at peace, beneath his own vine and fig-tree, to the serene end of a long life, but the idea that a telegraphic nerve of communication between the continents might be laid beneath the Atlantic took possession of his spirit, and thenceforth there was for him no further rest, for the busy thirteen years that intervened between the first meetings of a handful of capitalists around a table in his library, to study globes and charts, and hear the answers to letters addressed to Morse, who thought it quite possible to send a message through thousands of miles of wire, and from the geographer of the bottom of the ocean — Maury — who said there was a plateau of land highly adapted to being the resting-place of a cable, between Newfoundland and Ireland, but he cautiously added that he "did not pretend to consider the possibility of finding a time calm enough, the sea smooth enough, a wire long enough and a ship big enough, to lay this tremendous coil across the ocean." Less than Jioo,ooo were at first subscribed by the capitalists for a work that in the end cost many millions, and the fearful difficulties to be surmounted A COUNTRY BRIDGE UlKKFIl TIME 62 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A WIMKK JtUAifW^l C •^4i^WL.ito-:-;.vl(*'^^'' - i>.'.:-r^- ta-f*i: _ ■ ■at&!tii.:£;'_k-;-i^ju..^x. hAowv> — -aAX Ul liULLUW I PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE were mercifully hidden from the eyes of its pro- jector. The first wood pulp and the first paper made from it was made in Lee about thirty years ago by Charles H. Plumb, and its usfe since then has cheapened the dissemina- tion of knowledge won- derfully. Williams college was the first one in America to have an astronomical observatory as an adjunct of its instruction, and from this college was sent out the first college natural history expedition. It went to Nova Scotia, and the results were gathered up and published by Prof. Albert Hopkins, its organizer and inspirer. But not all the glories of Berkshire are natural and intellectual. She has had her share in those works of philanthropy and piety that will make the nineteenth illustrious among the centuries. 63 ■1 THE OLDEST INHABITANT SAVOYj'HOLLOW I HILL^l'^■ — **lJO\VKKll'y .WOY lIOl.l.OW PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE The first attempt to in- struct, Christianize, and transform the American Indian into an intelligent and conscientious citizen was made in the year 1734, in Stockbridge, by Sargeant and Woodbridge — mis- sionaries, — acting under the auspices of the Board of Commissioners for In- dian Affairs in Boston, who held funds contributed in England for the promotion of the gospel in foreign parts. The whole experi- ment is full of instruction, showing the measureless sacrifices our ancestors were willing to undergo to save souls, and its final out- come points to the inevita- AN OLD ItESIDENT ble conclusion that on this continent the Indian is but "provisional," and destined to fade and disappear. But a far more potent influence was to flow from this supreme estimate of the value of the human soul, and the belief in the power of efforts to uplift and save it. In 1807 there were held in the shadow of the immortalized "Haystack" those open-air prayer meetings and confer- ences that resulted in sending the first foreign missionaries from Williams col- lege, — but those conferences were also the germ of what afterwards developed into the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, which certainly has kindled a network of points of light over most parts of the known and ON THE ROAD TO FLORIDA accessible world ; so that when we review the glorious origins in Berk- shire, we say " Their line is gone out through all the earth, and their words to the end of the world." H. M. Plunkett. A WILDERNESS of sweets ; for Nature here Wanton'd as in her prime, and play'd at will . Her virgin fancies, pouring forth more sweets, Wild above rule or art, enormous bliss. Mi/ton. THE GRASS-GROWN ROADWAY A HOME ABOVE SAVOT CENTltE THK (>I:KVL0<:K llANiil-: I'UnM riA\"(tY CENTKE SaVOY CEKTUE, lUOM THE WEST ON THE ROAD NOKTIf OF SAVOY HOLLOW PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 65 A STORY WITH AN APPLICATION In Irving's "Salmagundi," "town "is defined as "an accidental assemblage of a church, a tavern and a blacksmith shop." Such towns occupied many a THE "NEW STATE" CHURCH THE ROAD TO THE VALLEY But if an old man, Berkshire born, would see how old is the new, and how new is the old, let him follow my example and foot it across Wind- sor on a summer day. He must not hurry, but take time to absorb the scene. He should even hill-top in Berkshire early in the present centurj', while the great lines of travel were still by stage across these moun- tain ranges. The " Meet'n- Haouse " was the general rallying point and hub of the township, the tavern was the traveler's home, and, on rainy days in summer, the black- smith shop was board of trade, club, lyceum, gymna- sium and morning paper, all in one. All that is changed. The ruddy glow of the forge and the cheerful "come- pound, go-penny '' that rang from the blacksmith's anvil are merely a memory; the tavern has faded to a tradi- tion, and the church to a lonely and emaciated kinder- garten. Perhaps " Savoy Holler " answered to Geoffrey Cray- on's definition of a town, down to as late a date as any other place in Berk- shire. The " Gixen .Alountain ON THE KOAD AFTER SUNSET climb the old church belfry, to widen his view, when he reaches "the Hill." If Solomon could have stepped out of his walls of cedar and ebony, and have looked on this land- scape, with its eternal newness of near-by fields, abloom with clover and daisies ; with Potter mountain and his fellow Taconics lying like a resting caravan between Hancock and " Lanesberry ; " and blue Grey- lock to the northwest, sleeping away " the still lapse of ages," the author of the song of songs could not have House," atleast, (lately destroyed by fire,) held on bravely to all the good old tradi- tionary ways of a country tavern. A few - years since, after an absence at the West of some thirty years, I passed through the silent street of Savoy, and saw, leaning against one of the cool, long-legged columns of the Mountain house veranda, the well-remembered figure of good, kindly Calvin Bowker, the proprietor. He seemed to be in a deep brown study, and I remembered that when I passed through the place thirty years before, he stood in the very same spot, in the same attitude, and in the same brown study ! My first impulse was to touch him, to see whether he was a living landlord, or a petrifaction. The mould of quiet years had gathered on him, but he was alive, and no doubt was living over, in his day-dreams, the time when the elder Bowker kept the old red hostelry across the road and a little farther to the west, and the boy Calvin tended bar and knew just how many fingers of Medford rum or cider brandy each customer required. SUGARHOUSE ASKING THE WAY 66 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ( 4 r •■ .-t - out, 'n' whilst I was lookin' 'em up, I gut kinder lost in the woods, 'n' wan- dered 'round 'n' 'round a long spell. Finally I come to what I fust thought was Kingdom Come, for nobody talked about anything but souls. They told me it was the place where they furnished souls for such unfortunate people as missed gettin' one in the uzhle way. They kep' ther stock in a thunderin' big buildin' with shelves all 'round. The lower shelves, where the big souls was kep', was several feet wide, 'n' they gut narerer 'n' narerer, till, 'way to the top, where they put the little contracted souls, they wasn't more 'n two inches wide. I watched the crowd, comin' and goin', 'n'pricin' souls. Them on the A COW LANE felt that he was in a stale and wearisome world. And yet, as I walked down a dis- continued and grass-grown road toward Cheshire, there was such an intense melan- choly and loneliness over it all, that the rollicking song of a bobolink seemed like a comic song among the tombs. I missed, most of all, as I passed the "town," the blacksmith shop, where a rustic Socrates in the old days was wont to scatter bits of a quaint philosophy, as sparks flew from the ringing anvil. Certain art- ful ones who used to con- gregate there, h ad a peculiar way of freeing their minds in cases of bitter personal hostility, without actual A COLD DAY collision. This way was, for each of two enemies to invent some cutting fable, vision or revelation about the other, which he would rehearse to the rainy-day group around the forge, in the other's presence and hearing. I will give a single illus- tration. Two Windsor farmers, X and Z , who had long been too hostile to speak to each other, had improved their opportunities alternately, in the above mentioned way, at periods of days or months apart. I will give one of these deliverances which I happened to hear. It was' in haying time, a quiet rain was falling steadily, and a considerable company of men and boys was gathered, as usual, mostly barefoot and in shirtsleeves. There were forks to be mended, tubs to be hooped, heel wedges and bow-pins to be made, and a wrestling match to be settled. X and Z were both there, and both knew that the sturdy smith would allow no blows or loud abuse. X , a big, brawny fellow, with a reputation for being "close as the bark of a tree," sat on the end of the water box, flahbling a little nervously in the blackened water. It was Z — -'s "turn," and the company was mildly expectant. The blacksmith, as he lighted his pipe with a red-hot nail rod, opened the way by asking Z what made him look so solemn .■■ " Wal, I'll tell ye," said Z , " I hed the rot darnedest dream las' night thet ever a feller dremp. I dremp that some of the yerlins gut MitlM. TH I. Rlnl MAIN TUE SLOPES IN MIUSliMMER PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 67 u-i;ii, r>iMi)> PASTURES AND FORESTS wide shelves come awful high, but the folks that gut 'etn walked out like kings 'n' queens, with faces shinin', heads up, 'n' hands open. Them that gut the little ones sneaked out as if they'd stole somethin'. Bime by, who should I see comin' in but X . You can all guess what he called for, 'n' you'd guess right, too. He wanted the biggest soul in the store, 'n' wanted it quick. But when he found he couldn't beat 'em down on the price, he kep' on tryin' cheaper 'n' cheaper ones, till he gut to the very top shelf. Them, the clerk told him, was fo'pence (6X cents) apiece. 'An' is them the cheapest you've gut?' says X . Then the clerk ast the boss if they was any souls made for less than fo'pence. ' No,' says the boss, ' but ther's a few two-cent gizzards up stairs, if anybody wants.' X said he'd look at 'em. So the clerk brought one down, 'n' it turned out to be jest a fit. Soon's X gut it into him, he gut right down on his belly 'n' crawled out o' the store ; 'n' the clerk slammed the door after him so hard that it waked me up, 'n' behold, it was all a dream ! 'N' now I'm lookin' for some Joseph to interpret the 'tarnal thing ! " But this was a story with too plain an application, and of course X had his inning on the next rainy day. E. R. B. A HILLSIDE ,' « A LOOK BACK AT FLORIDA A UILLIOF BARNYAKD 68 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE LOOKING INTO THE VALLEY FBOIC THE OLD STAGE BOAD the greatest thinkers, writers and preachers in the denomination, Rev. Washington Gladden and Rev. Theodore T. Mungcr. Several other churches are close by. Of these I would mention the very handsome granite structure of the Episcopal, and the charming modern architecture and fine color of the brown brick Universalist church. The building last mentioned was still incom- plete when I was last in the town. Just across the street a parish house was being erected by one of the church societies, and this afternoon they were dedicating it. Nothing but the ground floor was laid. Near the front stood a lonesome piano and at the back a large tent where, through the door, I could see a booth of figures. Near the street was a little group of people and one man among them was urging the others to come in to refreshments. I stopped to ask a question and was immediately invited to become one of the company. I confessed to being a stranger in town, but the man said that made no difference. He seemed to be making literal application of that portion of Scripture which commanded to '• Go out into the highways and hedges, and compel them to come in, that my house may be filled." The invitation was so kindly and cordial, I was sorry not to accept it. On the spur of a hill which rises abruptly above the town is Drury academy. It fronts no street, but is approached by a lane on one side and a picturesque, shadowed path on the other. On a fine terrace of the northern hills stands the large and fine-looking hospital of the town. On the neighboring hill to[the east is a good- T ^ ■ ^ FLORIDA CHURCH EASTERN HILLS, FROM FLORIDA sized park, and a second park of which the town is proud is on its southern borders down the Hoosac valley. One feature of peculiar interest within North Adams limits is the natural bridge on the hill-top back of the village. It is in a little hollow and so secluded NORTH ADAMS AND ADAMS Of all large towns and cities in the state, I am of the opinion that North Adams carries off the palm for striking picturesqueness. You get slight hint of this from the railroad station, orfrom anywhere along the Fitchburg line. The railroad traverses only the depths of the valley basin in which the town lies ; but follow any of the streets back to the base of the near northern hills and you begin at once to realize the Alpine beauty of the place. The streets which ascend the hill are alarmingly steep, and those which skirt its slope bring you almost directly above the roof-tops of the houses below. This in itself makes the hillside interesting tramping grotlnd, but the glory of it all is the immense line of mountain domes southward. They are so near and so lofty that the view toward them from any point on these steep streets is magnificently impressive. A tiny tower on the ridge which reaches highest into the sky marks Greylock. East and west are other mighty ranges which are only less impressive than that to the south. The town in the hollow, with its masses of roofs, chimneys apd spires, makes a pretty picture in contrast with the mountains, and some views which bring a big mill or other large btMlding into the foreground are especially interesting. •• Main street runs east and west on the lowest level. It is closely occupied by business and its blocks are as a rule substantial and well appearing. The new building of the Hoosac savings bank is particu- larly handsome. At the upper end of the street are tiie town library, Ihe soldiers' monument and two large brick churches, tlie Baptist and Congregational. The latter numbers among former ministers two of FLORIDA VILLAGE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 69 names painted. Some were laid on very large with red paint, but none of the indi- viduals whose names were recorded were persons of special distinction, so far as I noticed, and they could well be spared. In the wild gloom of the rock arbor to which I descended, a few rods below, the virtues of a certain baking powder are extolled and numerous additional names adorn the rocks. Thus do business, pleasure and nature Tnt: Filial TKAiW — PET IIOI-STEIN RED BRIPGE THE PET H0L3TEIN Princess of the Low Countri^, I'urn your handsome, dusky face ; Tell me how you came to be Far from all your race Live your kin, remote or near, In the land of dyke and dune,— Windmills whirr and skies are clear. Clacks the wooden shoon. ON THE KOAD TO AIJAMS llCi(iM"OK r\>TMKS AMI HILLS U K TW E EN NOIM'H AI>AMS ANP AP AMS IK MAIN STKF.ET IN ZVI. UNITE In your wide ancestial halls, Blooms the rose at pane and door ; Snowy lace I he curtains fall, White the sanded floor. Surely you do nut belong In this home of low degree.— With its roof not half so long As your pedigree? Z\LUKITE CIIArEL Then the farmer sings her praise, Boasts her wondious yield of milk. Praises all her gentle ways. Strokes her coat of silk. And Ih'.' good cow never stirs. Chews her cud quite placidly ; Royal ancestry is hers. Yet content is she. Laura .SanumksOn. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 73 BENFREW MILLS ^ I went back six or eight miles and tried the Goshen road. All went well till I came within sight of the hill-top houses. There the hurricane and drifting snows held lull sway and were savage enough to turn the sleigh over several times and shoot its contents out into the drifts. Chance brought along a friendly farmer and with his assistance I pulled through to the hotel. The next day travel was entirely suspended in those parts and i made friends with the sitting-room stove at the hotel and talked about the weather and the roads with such individuals as happened in. It was their unanimous opinion that I had better go home, that my undertaking bordered too close on hardship and the impossi- ble. I accepted this advice and the following day, at noon, when the drifts had been rudely channeled, I departed. The winter was an unusually snowy one and the roads much worse drifted than usual, or the trip would not have been cut so short. As it was, Picturesque Berkshire had to content itself, as far as winter is concerned, with picturing -3?»^ -..-^ AN ADAJIS SCHOOL EUILDIKG some of the snowy aspects of town scenery as it is to be noted in Pittsfield and Willi amstown. The spring was a backward one and even in the valleys the snow long lingered. It was the last week in April when I again started. A buckboard was substituted for the sleigh and I had an artist friend for company. For some miles the roads were hard and even dusty, but we found Goshen hill sadly muddy and not yet free from shreds of winter's snowy garments. We followed up the Cummington valley, and cool evening was settling down when we crossed the Berkshire line and began to look for a stopping place for the night. A farmer at Allenville accommodated us, and after a substantial supper we drew up about the kitchen stove with the family, including two dogs and an equal number of cats, and chatted away the evening. Just before bed- time, when we looked out of doors we noted that the moon was encircled by a hazy halo, and we retired with premonitions of a rainy to-morrow. Sure enough, it began to mist at daybreak and by breakfast time it rained heavily. We staid indoors and read the local papers and thus learned what a good many people we had never heard of before were doing and something of WHY BKUOK BUILDINGS OK UrrEl! PARK STKKET 74 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE the short-comings of each paper's contemporaries. We also studied the pictures and mottoes on the walls and perused a county gazetteer. About the time we had exhausted these sources of entertainment the weather showed signs of clearing, and under the guid- ance of a young man of the house we visited the famous Windsor Jams. On the way we stopped at a busy sawmill. It was like a thousand others scattered along the streams among the hills, — low, spreading and unpainted, with an acre or so of log-piles about it. Within the circular saws were humming, a big beech log was being sliced into boards, and a quantity of short sections of spruce was being converted into barrel staves. It was astonishing how fast this barrel material was turned out. To get to the Jams we followed the mill raceway back among the pastures and entered the woods. Here the snow lay in drifts and patches and there were places where it was fair sled- ^ ding. The woods were all adrip with moisture, and if one chanced to jar a tree he passed under he brought a shower of water drops down on himself. Under foot the ground was soaked, too, and we had to fish our way very guardedly in the more boggy spots. We crossed a rude bridge which, on account of the rain, was half inundated. Our guide wore rubber boots and he slopped through the thin streams, sliding over the planks without hesitation. We followed with no more mishap than having a little water slide into our shoes. The woods here were very fine — tall, clean-trunked beeches and maples, mostly, with scattered groups of evergreens. To the beech bushes and the lower limbs of the full-grown trees clung withered fringes of last year's leaves, and they looked very ghostly among the som- ber tones surrounding. We crossed a second bridge, climbed a rough hill and crept along the verge of the wooded precipice which, with the steep crags opposite, walls in the wild ravine. In the depths, hemmed in by the irregular, moss-grown cliffs and overhung by the scraggy trees that look almost as aged as the rocks themselves, is the roar- ing, foaming stream. I wanted to get a photograph from below and the guide and I essayed a descent. We slipped down the bank, clutching at convenient tree- trunks and branches, standing, sitting, creeping, as circumstances demanded. Everywhere were dead stumps, moss, rot- ting leaves and wetness, and the going down was no pleasure trip. The torrent nearly filled the glen . Now and then a great boulder broke the stream and snow and ice jams lingered along the banks. As my guide was crossing one of the latter it collapsed and he made a sud- den descent into the water. Luckily it did not come above his boot-tops. The stream tumbles through this rocky channel for a half-mile or more, and we climbed along the banks as far as the upper end before we turned back. It was not possible to keep along the bed of the stream, as is sometimes done in the low water of midsummer. Even then it is considered quite an adventure to make one's way clear through from end to end. By the time dinner was eaten, the clouds were so shredded with blue sky we thought it safe to start. The little hamlet where we had spent th^ night was almost at once cut from sight by the turns of the half-wooded road which followed up the crooked ravine. We passed many little farmhouses on the way to Savoy Hollow, but most of them were deserted and with the run-down, faded fields about, all on the lifeless edge of spring, looked uncommonly forlorn. It was beautiful, too, and must be particularly charming in blossom time when GREYLOCK FRONTISPIECE ILLUSTRATION Who fitly can declare The glory and the value to mankind Of the great hills that rear Above the bustle of the busy plain, Above the want, and sorrow, and doubt, and sin, Above the struggle of toiling hand and brain, The infinite consolations of their calm ? Round all the earth, down all the hollow years, Since Israel's king lifted his weary eyes To their eternal strength, and sought the balm Of their sweet quiet,— yea, to this our day, Shall men resort where these great preachers rise ; The everlasting truths which hold the world UKICYH^UK, FltOlM ADAMS Teaching, in wordless sermon and silent psalm ! Come here where Greylock rolls Itself towards heaven ; in these deep silences, World-worn and fret'ed souls Bathe and be clean ! Cares drift like mists away. Reformers, hurrying the Millennium's dawn,— Urging to-morrow's blossom to bloom to-day, — Here gird your baffled, warring minds anew With God's enduring patience ! Linger here When through light leaves the west wind whispering goes, When summer's breath the warm pine filters through. When tempests strike and shines agcinst these sides When terrible in its inaccessible snows,— You who would learn the secret of the hills, God give you giace to know it, and hold it true ! Julia Taft Bayne. the thickets of mossy and neglected old apple trees are in bloom. The afternoon was only half-way pleasant. At times threatening clouds would gather and throw the earth into gloomy shadow, and then the warm sunlight would break free and flood the landscape. We found Savoy Hollow to be a wide vale flanked by high hills darkly wooded, with evergreens in places, and, again, with grayer forests, showing here and there wide patches of desolation where the choppers had recently been. A little stream makes a swift winding way through the low meadow land, and a village with two little white churches has its place where the valley nar- rows northward. The most striking buildings of the village were the old hotel with its quaint pillared front and a big, brown farmhouse which in its day was plainly a very pretentious mansion. Its sagging, two-story portico caught the eye, as did the remnants ~ ^ of old-style wooden ornaments aloi^ the eaves and about the windows. Indoors, the antique hall and best rooms and fire- places have still much of their old-time flavor, and are well worth a visit. The hills grew wilder as we went on, and the road rougher and more muddy. The horse could do little but plod, and in the worst places we got out and walked. At length we came into a lonely clearing in a spruce wood. In the midst of this rough acre was the town-house. Some one was shingling the roof; otherwise we might have thought it forsaken. It is so much the habit of the larger valley towns to choosfi their pleasantest sites for public buildings that this situation seemed unaccountable. The reason for it, so we were told, was that the villages of the town- ship were none of them large and none central, and the placing of the town hall was a compromise. STime distance beyond we began the ascent of a steep hill and half way up came upon Savoy Centre. It seemed a joke to call it the center of anything, for there were only two or three houses there and a school-house a quarter-mile down the western road, but the title is inherited and had some logic in it in the early days of the town. We hitched our horse to the wheel of a wagon standing in a farmer's yard, and climbed a steep hillside to get a view of Greylock, which we were prom- ised could be had from there. We panted slowly upward through the drifted snow patches intermitting with the faded grass, and once on top sat down on one of the numerous boulders strewn about, and looked into the west. Across a wide valley rose some low hills and beyond their even horizon line there floated in the air the giant form of Greylock. It was distinct in color from everything surrounding and seemed in its gray blueness as much a part of the sky as of the earth. A tiny tower marked the highest summit. This tower has no interest as a matter of beauty, but it was always mentioned in connection with Greylock by the people we spoke to along the way about the mountain. Indeed, we sometimes questioned if they did not think the tower more important than the mountain itself. When we returned to the wagon we kept on in our course northward. The road did not lack the muddy features of those we had been getting accustomed to, but, as well, was generously supplied with snow patches. In wooded places these were quite extended, and at one spot, just ofi the road in an orchard,the snow piled well up into the apple-tree branches. The farms were few and far between, and in the whole afternoon's travel we met only one or two teams. It was remark- able in some places how subdivided the clearings were by stone walls, and it seemed to me it made the faims PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 75 THE L. L BUOWN MILL look strangely foreign. At nearly every place we passed, a dog or two came out in front of the house to look at us, and in the main were very solemn and gentle- manly about it. They were a particularly wholesome, fine looking lot of dogs, I thought, and had many points in their favor as compared with the town and valley dogs. There were frequent twinklings of red sap buckets among the maple thickets along the way, but the season was nearly over and not much seemed to be going on about the rude little sugarhouses. Toward evening we passed the little Union church with its long line of horse sheds and adjoining school, and when the darkness began to deepen we commenced the descent of a long hill, with a magnificent valley view before us. Half way down was a picturesque group of farm buildings, and there we applied for shelter. The V I s \ / \ A LOOK TO^VARD THE JIOUXTAIKb woman of the house was willing to take us in if the man at the barn was. I crossed the road to the building indicated, opened a door and entered a shed. I could discern a second door before me. It was open and within was pitchy darkness. This was discouraging, but from the blackness came the sound of milk streaming into a pail, and I ventured a salutation. When I asked for lodging the man hesitated to say "yes "to a stranger whom he had not even a sight of, but after some conversation and CAl nilLIC u^iiytt ■a CENTi:K .SJUKI.T ASU IMVKHSALIST CHUECJl KNTEKINU AD.\il.-. tUuM IIIK KOKTH 76 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lENIlJEf STl.Kr, [• EL(tCK.S EPISCOPAL CHUKCH serious consideration he said he would attend to us when he finished millcing. In time we got in out of the chilly night air and drew up by the briskly burning fire in the kitchen stove. We had maple syrup with our biscuit and butter for supper, that was so good I cannot forbear mentioning it. Indeed, at all the farmhouses I stopped the maple syrup seemed much thicker and more delicious than we get in the valley. J OLD QUAKER CHURCH In the morning the first sounds were of some one stirring about the kitchen and a lone bird caroling out of doors. The sun shone clear in the east, but the air was very keen in the early day. The ground was frozen stiff and rocky and the snow was hard enough to walk on, and all the pools were glazed with ice. Everything, to the farthest distance, was sharply defined in the sparkling air. Our host pointed out the central shaft of the Hoosac tunnel far off across the valley where we could discern some stone work and curling wisps of smoke. At eight we had hitched up and started. The way led down a rough, frozen road that would have shaken us up fully as much as was necessary even without the frequent thank-you-m arms which broke its course. In places it was so icy it seemed best the horse should sit down and slide. We were fearsome she would take some less safe method of sliding, and at length con- cluded we had better insure ourselves against destruction by getting out and walking. We had no sooner reached the foot of the hill and crossed a little Af ivnrnrns r cHriicii "1 BAPTIST CHUROH A UILL POND PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 77 HOOSAC STREET SCHOOL-HOCSE COKGREGATIONAL CHUhCH ... /.MJi^i^-^-^ z -f*! PARK STREET A MAPLE GROVE VIEW side. All along we had beautiful Swiss view s into the southern valley, with a magnificent wooded mountain slope on its farther side. At length we came to a spot in the road where an extensive snowdrift still held forth. In the midst of this we had to make a turn on to a side road, and that turn was in the nature of the apex of a sharply pointed wedge, with not the least sign of relief in the way of a rounded corner. We studied the matter while the horse stopped and went to sleep, but the solution of the difficulty by any natural method was too much for us. We alighted ; my companion woke the horse and engineered her while I lifted around the back end of the vehicle. bridge tThtt spanned a swift stream, then the road began to ascend rather more steeply, if anything, than it had come down. It was necessary to make frequent stops to rest the horse until we came to milder territory, where the road turned eastward and skirted the hillside. By the wayside here was a small cemetery, barren and treeless and hemmed in by stone walls. It had not even pictur- esqueness in its decrepitude. Luckily this type of cemetery, which has neither tree, shrub nor vine to relieve its bareness, is not numerous. When, a little later, our path began to descend we were astonished at the roadway drifts we encountered. They were channeled through, or we should have been shipwrecked in them, for they were five or six feet deep. The inhab- itants calculated that the last of them would not disappear before June. The road led into a deep ravine where a picturesque, covered bridge spanned a little river. Beyond, it made a long ascent up and around a great, rocky pasture hill- RILLBIDE HOUEB 78 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE T. niAULrS CAIUOLIC CITLHCir 'We were shut in by a patch of woodland, but as soon as we left it we were among brown fields again and on ahead was a little village. It _.was Florida — just two or ■ three houses and a mite of a church on a great hill. In all our journeying about the township I looked in vain for aught that would give reason for its name, unless it was oppositeness, just as school children will sometimes nick- name a very fat fellow "Sliver." But if Florida lacks flowers, it has some wonderful views, and there is perhaps no to wn in the county more interesting to make a circuit of in a drive. Im- mediately beyond the church the road dips sharply east and north, and you look down into a beautiful, great valley, beyond which are immense blue hills rising one after the other and rolling away to the horizon. In the deepest depths of the hollow we caught glimpses of the Deer- iield river, saw tiny trains creeping along their sinuous tracks, and heard the faint whistling of the engines. The railroad seemed an in- vader and lent the scene an THK SOVTIIEUN OI' UF SIAIM.E 11 MAPUE GIIOVE- TIIK SCHOOL BUILDING air of mysterious strange- ness. Indeed, the rough vastness of the region gave one the feeling that it should naturally be an unbroken solitude, entirely given over to its native wildness. The road skirted the hill- side and the views were very fine all along. At length we came to the old stage road over the mountain and began a steep ascent. Three lines of telegraph poles straggling along the way gave it quite a metropolitan air. Toward the crest of the rise the road went through a rough and horribly muddy pasture to avoid the snowdrifts with which the main highway was blocked. We had been through mud a-plenty before, but nothing like this. The pasture was a waste of soggy moss through which many wheels had ploughed a wide, black track of deep, sticky mud. I walked. My com- panion drove along the trail of his predecessors and nearly disappeared, horse ON THE WINDSOR EOAD— A CIIOPl-EK'a LUNCH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 79 ' *W lEsliNii litiw JANI. AlUtciW WINDSOK — SCHOOL-HOU&K ON THE WINDSOR HILLS and all. Then he tried the mossy borders, and, though the wheels cut in less deeply, the vehicle pitched about so violently over the rough hillocks that I begged him to get back into the mud again. We were thankful when we came once more to comparative terra firma on the main road, and there we gave our panting horse a rest. In time, progress over the rolling, half-wooded -t A JtOADMUli CU.Ml'AMUA WINDSIIK POKD i^. •:.■ B^:^EFICrAlU^;s of thk fuesii air fpnd WISIKll— ON THIS WAY TO. SCHOOL mountain top brought us to a spot where the blue western valley opened before us. Here the tele- graph poles left the road and pitched straight down through a narrow and brushy clearing into the valley. On a grassy knoll here we ate our lunch, while the horse investigated a bag of meal by the roadside. It was a wonderful down-look. The great valley basin sweeping away to the great hills westward, the tiny farm buildings dotting _ the fields at the foot of the slope, and, in the low- est level. North Adams' outreaching streets and jl THE^OLD^CLEVRLANDllIIOLSH AviMisoi: poirr (irnrv 8o dwellings veiled in the smoke of its chimneys, combined to make a scene of impressive beauty. Greylock's serrated ridge loomed up vast to the south, but, unhappily, was nearly hidden from this point of view by a fringe of birch woods. The steep, downward plunging road brought us after a little to a sharp turn, where we emerged from the woods and had the monarch range of Grey lock straight before us. It was a very clear but mellow day and the out- looks from the long loops of the roadway as it zigzagged down the mountain side were delightful. I felt sure a ride over the mountain on the out- side of one of the old coaches must have been a great treat. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE were touches of green along the water courses and on protected south- ern slopes. I ate my lunch on the square before SUNSET IK IIAYIKG TIME a deserted log house. The windows were gone, so I looked in. The cracks between the logs were chinked with mortar and the interior was divided into four little board-partitioned rooms. As I went on I began to get glimpses of a big white church with a handful of houses about it on the great, bare hill-top southward. The spring was late and the fields were, for the most part, brown and withered, but there AKRIVAL OF A PRESIT AU: EOT J'KIMITIVR l-'AKM BLILUIXii; Teru, Hinsdale, Dalton, Berkshire On the warm, bright morning of May eleventh I was toiling up the roundabout hill road from Cummington to Peru. Now it led through the woods, and now across pasture fields. The farmhouses I passed were few and far between, and some of these were de- serted. At other spots where houses had been were only a dil^idated barn or two left, or perhaps a pair of broken chimneys and a cellar hole. I passed a stone school-house where the children were out at recess and, in a ragged, half-treed district beyond, found 1^^ Hi^ :-■ ■ ^Eff^. inrff!!^ s, ^«f*^P*; ,;?;- W ^ iM^H^^ "M ^^^^m % hHR^^^ '-\m^k\,, ill'-i» ^SmfwV^^^KntL i^mBSHIP^^ ~^ w ' * W HK jf^^i^^^^^^p^HS ■ r^" fH^^HHf ,y^H J ■:. v\ ■•' ■ " ' - ' '' ' ■■■ -'-•" "'"v. " ^^ , i -f.-.-' -''■■, -;■■■"" ■—..■'■ ^ A BHOOK IN SPRING ^^^^^ . M m H /• #: m ^-^ w -A'i ■i (.rV i>-/ "^"^ ^^§ A a . _ 1 iv 1^^^ Hk^hh """■*'-- FORD HAKSION OLD HOUSES ON THF WAY TO HIKSDALE eastern hill, while scattered farmhouses dot the slope across the meadow. The homes looking from beneath the elms and maples appeared pleasant and well kept, and the regio/i as a whole seemed uncommonly fertile and thrifty. This effect is counteracted to a degree by the vacant cones of two charcoal kilns in the meadow and by a silent, towering iron furnace in the middle of the settlement. Special interest attaches to Lanesboro as being the birthplace of the famous humorist " Josh Billings." His real name was Henry W. Shaw, and the old Shaw homestead, where he passed his early years, still looks down from its position on a high plateau of the western hill. It is a large, substantial building with a wing on either side and many outbuildings. Josh Billings is remembered as a reticent boy who cared little about the companionship of other boys, but preferred to go around by himself. His father was the richest and most prominent man in the village. Indeed, Squire Shaw's reputation was national. He was a man of marked ability, knew more theology than the minister, and more law than nine-tenths of the lawyers, and Zg-r HOUSEKEEPING ON THE LAWN the town always elected him to the Legislature when he wanted to go. In Bos- ton, if his support was gained for a measure, that measure was considered as good as passed. He was a forcible speaker, and he could shed tears and work on the feelings of his audience and be inside as cool as a cucumber. The squire frequently came down to the store where the post office was and sat for an hour or more to talk politics. The villagers were always glad to listen. f*^ ' i I lilt ^ 'iTRANGE TBASI ON PEliU COMMON CAUSEWAT AT THE ASHMERE RESERYOIR 86 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE LOOKING DOWN PLUNKETT STREET BEIDGE BELOW HINSDLAE BKOTHERS' MILL HINSDALE, FROM THE EAST "Hen Shaw," as Josh Billings was called by the villagers, went to Lenox academy, then the most notable school in Western Massachusetts, and later was sent to Hamilton college. After a time it was whispered around that he had run away and joined a menagerie. But it was not known surely, for nobody dared ask the old squire about his affairs. Two or three years later Josh came home. He then showeda decided fondness for getting around the tavern and store to talk and crack jokes. Once a menagerie came to town and he spent the day in showing up the animals. So odd and humorous were his comments and descriptions that he kept a crowd about him from morning to night. That confirmed in people's minds the story of his running away from college. After Josh won fame as an author and was making a fortune by his writing in New for there was wisdom and depth to what he said. He would have made a far greater reputation had he not loved money better than political honors and given businessprecedence. In his younger days he was a democrat, but later became an ardent Clay man, and it was understood that had Clay been elected tO'the presidency. Squire Shaw was to have been his secretary of state. ~ 1l«^ j^ HINSDALE — HEAR THE STATION A VILLAGE KOADWAT THE PARRISH MILL PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 87 r-:-.r .Y /■ •^ H, ^^M H ^% '"^ fe^V M m w L ■ "^ ^ P fe HBHe|hs^^1,.^^uj 3pi M p 44 ''^ p E ^MjK^IJ^HK. ,, -v^«^- : -"a» tl Ul ■!^4 1 himself much. He had not been brought up to habits of systematic work and was physically lazy. In figure he was a broad-framed man, over six feet tall, spare, bony and round shouldered. After he began to write he let his hair grow long and cultivated oddity. He was a keen judge of charac- ter and in his humor was not a little thought and wisdom. " w mm i 1 Hp''-"' " ■^tMMI ie m^ ^^^^H^^ ^g ^^^ ^ m -«sji HINSDALE OUTSKIRTS York and his lecture tours, he still made Lanesboro his summer home. He boarded at the hotel and liked to sit around and talk to such listeners as gathered. Once in awhile he would go fishing, but he did not like to exert StTMSriT OF WARNER, HILL BERKSHIRE KENNELS It was his desire that he should be buried in the Lanesboro cemetery, and that his grave should be marked by a block in the rough from the marble quarry in the town, on which there should be simply his and his wife's names. When he died the Lanesboro quarries were no longer worked, and a great, rough bowlder was brought from Pittsfield. There it is, halfway up the hillside in the neatly kept cemetery among the village homes. Not far from this stone is one of the old table monuments, beneath which rests the body of Johnathan Smith, a man who wielded great influ- ence in the last century in helping establish the republic. I deciphered and noted down the ancient lettering on the marble slab. It reads thus: In Memory of Mrs Esther Smith Consort of Col. Johna- than Smith Who departed this life June the 12th 1797 in the 53d year of her age. also Of Col. Johnathan Smith Who died Sept. the 9th 1802, Inthe62d(yearof his age. When you pass by re- ,/( -r.:- member me. RAYMOND'S BLOCK A GAME OF MARBLES 88 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE As you are now so once I was. As I am now so you must be. Prepare for death and follow nie. I went up the pleasant Lanesboro valley lOVer an increasingly steep road. The neigh- boring hill ranges became higher and more rugged and tumbled, and held in their hollows many beautiful but lonely little intervales. When I passed over the last rise and began to dip downward I had some fine mountains in view and in the midst of them, on an irregu- lar terrace, I came upon the very picturesque little town of New Ashford. A small, white church marked the village center. Next it was a brown, unpainted school-house and as I passed the children looked up from their books and out of the open windows to discover who THE LIBRARY MAPLE STEERT, LOOKING EAST perched far above with an attendant hemlock tree ; and then into the deep, gloomy hollow whence come faint gleams of foamy waters. The road pitches along down a fine, half- wooded valley that in time opens out wider and affords handsome views of the big hill ranges along the north. At South Williams- town I made a turn westerly and southward. The village by the stream which winds around the hillside is very pretty, and the mountain views on every hand are very charming. The place has a church, a hotel, a store and on a fine hill a great, vacant school building. Everything was very quiet, though I wit- nessed one incident which narrowly missed being striking in more senses than one. It THE MONROE EJIMOHS HOU: MOONLIGHT AT HINSDALE BKOTHEKM DAM IJ was passing and his business. The farmhouses were scattered, and the adjoining fields and pastures were exceedingly hilly and the mountain slopes very near and steep. It is doubtful if there is a place in the county more interestingly varied in its scenery. Down the northern road is a white-stoned cemetery on a high knoll, and a little after you come upon a qu\int, weather-worn little mill in a hol- low, that has below it a deep, rock-walled ravine. It is well worth one's while to get out and clamber down the hillside for a look up at the tiny mill THE PLUHKETT RESIDEXOE A FAMILIAR FIGURE CATHOLIC CHURCH THE LONE FISHERMAN PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 89 IN THK BUSIMBSS CKNTEK— MINSDALK KOAD TO PLUNKETt'S EKSERVOIR lcU12^ti B£LUVV 'iUE VILLAGE was all about I was not near enough to guess, but, as I said, it came very near being striking. Now I began to travel down the Hancock valley. The town is fifteen miles long and three wide, and lies between two mighty hill ranges. The road undu- lates along over the little side spurs that jut down into the valley from these hill ranges. On the top of every rise is a house and nearly every one made a was this. A small colored boy was playing about the door of one of the humbler homes. Suddenly and without warning a colored woman with a pipe in her mouth and a broom in her hand rushed violently out of the house door. She made some wrathful ejaculations and flourished the broom, while the small boy made haste to scamper clown the road. What it HINSDALE:. BHOTHEKS' MILL THE Renfrew uIll ENTERING JERICHO QO PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE COKGKEGATIONAL CHUKCH — HALTuN EVIfiNING— DALTON, FROM DKPOT STHEET picture in contrast with the surrounding nature. It was a pretty piece of farming country. At the rear of some of the houses I noted there was a great kettle swung up from the ground on a rail. I was curious enough to ask what it was for, and learned they were made ready for the spring soap boiling. The sun disappeared early behind the western ridge, though for hours its mellow light continued on the eastern slopes. I asked a man I overtook on a load of boards how far it was to Hancock Centre, but he said the town was so strung out 'twould be hard to tell where the center was. I persevered, however, and at length the valley took a westward turn and let in the sunlight on a little village. There on the level were a white church, a small stone mill and rows of little mill houses crowding close up to the sidewalk. Down the street the valley broadened out into a wide interval of mellow farming country. I concluded to drive over to Lebanon Springs to spend the night. While jogging along a lonely stretch of road I was approached by a man riding awhile MAIN STKEET ON THE " FLAT ' horse and leading a colt. My horse pricked up her ears and of a sudden made a violent jump to the side of the road. This sharp cramping with the suddenness of the stopping had like to have thrown me out. As it was I managed to keep my seat and clung to the reins. The harness had broken and the thills had shot above the horse's back in a most alarming manner. But the man on the white horse stopped, my horse quieted down a little and 1 got out and held her while he drove past. Then I mended the harness with some cord I carried and journeyed on once more. THE TOWN HALL THE BEGINNING OF SUMMER On sloping hills the daisy blossoms show Their harmony of blended sun and snow ; And from cool sweeps of meadow sweetly ring The choral notes that joyous warblers sing. THE HIGH SCHOOL CltANK rONl> PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 91 'GREYLOCK OF GREYLOCK' Deacon Hiram Brown, son o£ " Sweet Billy Brown " of Cheshire, born in the " Notch " in 1797, was a unique and admirable character, well worthy a page in local history. He reached a sweet and green old age of ninety-four years, and has lately been gathered to his fathers. His life was a checkered one, but marked by singular purity and philanthropy, and his earnestness and rare sweetness of character left their impress on his handsome countenance. Greylock mountain looks immediately down on his early home, from which circumstance and from his flowing white hair, he was known in the home of his de- clining years — Elm wood. 111., — as " Greylock of Greylock." A good part of his life was spent in Cummington, Mass., where he was fore- most in religious matters, and from 1845 to i860 was the leading spirit in that region in the anti-slavery and anti-sectarian movements, for which Cummington was a rallying-point at that time. He was the intimate friend of Garrison, Phillips and Pillsbury, and Garrison pro- nounced his hospitable home " the greenest spot on all the Green mountains." As an off-hand speaker and debater, the hearer had no fear that he would blunder. He was quick of thought and sympathy, and by nature a leader. His grace of manner, native courtesy and ready wit, notwithstanding his entire lack of school education, opened wide all doors to him ; but nothing could seduce him from the thorny path of the reformer. The following autobiographical sketch of his apprenticeship is given just as it fell from the old man's lips with- out a moment's previous notice to him : " I was born in ' the Notch,' Cheshire, Mass., October 24, 1797, and am now nearing my ninety- fourth milestone. My father, William Brown, better known in Berkshire county history as 'Sweet Billy Brown,' failed in business, and there being a large family of us, I was apprenticed to Mr. Crane, paper maker of Dalton, 1809! I was then only twelve years old and remained until I was fourteen. I could not be spared from the mill to go to school. " At Carson & Crane's I was employed as layboy, and after the firm dissolved, remained with Crane. Dalton then had one meeting-house and one store. I was small of my age and had to stand on a stool to reach my work. It was my part to take the sheets off the felts, when they came out of the press, and also to size the paper by dipping a half-quire at a time in THE Z. AND W. 41. CUAKE MILLS WINTER ON THE CRANE GROUNDS a tub of thin glue, which I made from leather scrapings from the tanneries. The paper was then hung in a loft, surrounded by shutters, to dry. There were no rollers to calender the paper, but three or four girls inspected it and went over it with broad knives, scraping off the " nubs," and then it was pressed again, but not ruled. They made all kinds of writing paper and music paper, but the whole output was only about ten ream s a d ay . The power for the beater was an over- shot water wheel on the brook, and there was a splendid spring of pure soft water. The vat man dipped the pulp from the vat on to a screen, and shook it till it was in the right state to be turned over on the felt ; and a great deal depended on the vat man's skill at his part of the work. We made good, honest paper and it -r-- wasmostly sold in Albany. Ped- ~ ~~ ' dlers brought in a large share of the rags, some of them smelling bad enough ; but the best came from the Shakers. These were mostly linen and were always clean and sweet. " I lived in Mr. Crane's family, and had a lonesome, homesick time of it. Sundays, in the summer, I used to go off into the woods to cry. Once in a long while I walked across the hills to 'the Notch,' to the mingled joy and grief of my mother. "The law of the state allowed apprentices to choose a new trade at the age of fourteen, and as my life in the paper mill had been a hard one, I changed and became a clothier. Even at Dalton there was always some fun or some kindness to lighten the time. The last of my old playfellows at 'the Notch,' my cousin, John Stafford (Stafford's Hill), has just passed away, and I stand like a lone, leafless tree on a bleak landscape. I have had many steep pitches to climb, and have made some sacrifices for freedom of mind, and the freedom of the slave, but, on the whole, life has been sweet and good, and this has been, and is still a good world to live in." The following poem, written as a birthday song, and repeatedly sung on the anniversary by his neighbors, is the composition of his son, Edwin R. Brown, a native of Adams, now of Elmwood, 111.: — SUUI12B NEAB THE CBANES' UILLS Birthday Song— ( The man of Cheshire once was fresher, Ere he grew so grey, But, I'm thinking, while we're drinking To his health to-day, — Though the fire once burned higher, In his youthful veins, That his living and his giving Bring him precious gains ; Air : Sally Horner) So we greet him as we meet him, With a round of cheers, Telling once again the story Of the rolling years. Pass him sweetly, years that fleetly Glide his white head o'er, And, for Greylock of old Greylock, Bring your richest store. 92 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A RAIKY DAY ONE OF THE OLD HOUSES — " PRIEST " JENNINGS' HOME Many sorrows left their furrows On his frosty brow ; Many a pleasure, many a treasure Cheered his heart, as now ; Smiling, weeping, true ways keeping, In Truth's battle strong ; Living cleanly and serenely, Life is sweet and long. So we greet him, as we meet him, etc. Swift the rolling years go bowling — Who knows whence or where ? Ends, or middle, life's a riddle. And a mystery rare. But there's beauty, and there's duty In this world of ours, And their wooing and their doing Grace the passing hours. So we greet him, as we meet him, etc. -Sunset nearing, never fearing Is the patriarch true. Living longer, love grows stronger Still from me and you. Hands are grasping, arms are clasping — Ready! you and I, And to Greylock of old Greylock Drink a bumper dry ? So we'll greet him, as we meet him, etc. RESIDENCE OF ZENAS CRANE TUE GHAUREKLAIN HOUSE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 93 RKSIDENCS OP EX-HF^TE^A^T G0VFR^01t V ESTON THE IRVING HOUSE THE RIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY Berry Fond, Potter Mountain, Cheshire, Windsor The sky had had a murky look the night before along the west when I drove into Lebanon Springs, and this morning, about breakfast time, it began to rain. I sat in the hotel office and read a Springfield Republican of the day before and listened to the tale of a traveling medicine man who had a shiny two-horse cart at the barn. Two other gentlemen came in and sat while they smoked a cigar apiece and settled it to their satisfaction that the world's fair was "the greatest beat out." The rain did not fall very earnestly, and after a time some straggling beams of sunlight encouraged me to start. . On the previous evening I had made the acquaintance of a young man, whom I overtook on the road, and gave a ride, and who had offered to pilot me up the mountain to a picturesque cascade he knew of. I called on him this morning and he and his brother went with me up a steep side road and across the pastures to the woods. ON THE ZENAS CRANE GROUNDS There we began at once the ascent of a ragged ravine. A young growth of trees clothed its sides. Over its black, mossy rocks a little stream was making the steep downward descent in a series of silvery cascades. In the spongy, treacherous soil, among the trees of the stony banks of the ravine, many wild woodland flowers flourish, particularly wake- robin and the delicate little flower known from its peculiar shape as " Dutchman's Breeches." For half a mile or more we toiled up the steep mountain side. Then, all at once, we came into a little opening where lay a small lake. Here on the mountain top the THE POND AT THE WESTON MILLS WILLOWS- ZKHAS OKA.NK OKuLKOO A TILLAGE VIEW — ilAIN STRBBT 94 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ON VVKST MAI2J MKKKl' wind was blowing a gale, and the waves on the little sheet of water ran into whitecaps that fiercely lashed the stony shore as they broke against it. The trees about were strangely twisted and misshapen, showing how windy a situation it was. Back on a low, bare ridge was an old cellar hole where once was a house, and there were traces of an old road winding down the steep hillside through the woods. It IHB OLD STOMB MILL la DALION CEMETERY seemed a wonder any one should think of building on such a bleak, desolate height and so inaccessible. But every hill-top had once its home, no matter how exposed or how toilsome the way to it. At the edge of the pond lay two battered old boats filled with water, and I learned that fishermen sometimes resorted here to catch bullheads. The pond is one of the bottomless kind, but my companions said its reputation had been injured for them by soundings they had taken, which proved twelve feet to be its greatest depth. At the time A. T. Stewart's body was stolen, some years ago, a story appeared in a leading New York paper to the effect that four men, shortly after the theft, had been seen bearing a mysterious burden up this moun- tain side. On arrival at the pond they had gone out in a boat and lowered their heavy object into the water. The tale created considerable excitement till it was traced back to a man whose reputation as a roman- cer was such that the story was immediately discounted about one hundred per cent. We followed the faintly marked old road in going down the mountain, and thereby encountered one or two brush fences. A brush fence is made by lopping young \'\ ^ trees down BPI8C0PAL CHUBCH IN THE LIBBART PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE with a blow of the axe that half severs the stem about three feet above the ground. The more trees that are brought down into this live tangle of brush, the better the fence. It is more effective than barbed wire, I judged from the effort it cost to getthrough. Butacombination of crawling and climbing and patience took us through its difficulties, and we were, in i'-** the course of time, down the mountain and back on the main highway. 95 A PAKTIAL VIKW OF TBESwESTON .MILLS BBTWfiEW DAhTOS AND HIN8DALE,1| I went on alone. At Hancock I was overtaken by a smart shower and drove under the horsesheds and ate my lunch, while I waited for it to pass. Afterwards I went eastward and climbed the long, zigzag road up Potter mountain. The view of the western valley basin kept getting finer and finer. From the summit I looked back on the great sweep of lowland hemmed in on three sides by the mighty wooded hills. Its fresh spring greens were flooded with a sudden burst of sunlight from the threatening blue cloud-drifts. The effect was magnificent. • The road here turned a corner round a hillock, and I was struck by a chilly eastern wind, and found a good-sized snow- drift by the wayside, with an attendant patch of soggy mud for the horse to toil through. The mountain top was much of it mossy and brushy pasture land, but with no sign of flocks or habitations, save one or two old cellar holes. I soon began to skirt the hillside in descent, and there was a great sweep of blue valley before. Northward was , Greylock, lost in clouds, but lesser ranges lent variety to the landscape, and two shining lakes of dainty outline lay directly eastward. Shreds of sunlight were wandering here and there over the wooded hills and green fields, and to the south a shower was trailing its delicate gauze over the spires and roof-tops of Pitts- field. The road as it dessended the hillside passed through some fine groves of large trees, and along the borders of several bar- ren, ragged slopes of cut-off land. During the three days following I was about Pittsfield and in AROHITEOTDHAL DETAIL— WESTOH BOUSE the southern part of the county, sections which receive a separate treatment, and this narrative is discontinued for that space. It was a clouded afternoon when, many days later, I left the village of Berk- shire on a journey northward. My path led up a narrow valley flanked, east and west, by rugged hill ranges, and the road was often shut in by young woods. The leaves were fast un- folding and the fields were well ZEiiAS CHASE ENTKANOKS TO THE TOWN UALL fc^. A SKETCH FROM CBANT! AKD COMPANT'S DAM carpeted with green. Along the brook and in the wet meadows were thick growths of cowslips bright with yellow blosso*ns. As I approached Cheshire the road bordered a long, narrow lake, choppy with waves and gloomed by the overhanging clouds. Midway the lake was crossed by a low, picturesque causeway to a sp_qt where was some kind of a mill with two or three spans of horses on the roof, furniBhiTig-power by walk- ing up the endless incline of a tread.-wUl. The day was one of the lowery q6 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE iJAltToA VlljLJi VliiiV WINTER AT THE WESTON MILLS P1TI:&FJELU AAD i»ALTON STAGE THE CATHOLIC CHUIiCJI TUE LUNG BKlI>Uii sort that is supposed to give fish an appetite for the baited hook, and I saw a number of fishermen and fishergirls scattered alongshore, trailing their lines in the waves. On the road I met a team drawing a load of sand that was so white and so like sugar it made one's mouth water to look at it. The sand is found in Cheshire in great creamy cliffs and mining and pre- paring it for the glass workers is a chief industry of the town Cheshire CIlUUL toLLl(jlll;]JjK \ i M ^J J j^S IQHh ^ m HH pHHBHI ^^ " ^ j^FOJtTE-UUCllKKE 01' THt. ZLNAf Cl;A^E KKblliENCJ-; elongated pieces of mossy and pebbly granite rock. I thought it would be interesting to bring away one as a specimen. But when I lifted a bar I concluded it would be better to order my specimen sent by freight. I looked into the furnace through a space where a board had departed, but was not thereby much enlight- ened as to the process of iron-making. Not far from the piles of pig iron are some waste fields filled with heaps of slag, and above the building much powdered charcoal scattered about and then acres of great piles of cord wood. Among TUK EAULK village has a pleasant r situation on the broken valley hills at the northern end of the reservoir I had been skirting. Its roads concentrate at a stone bridge which spans the stream easterly. Near this is an iron furnace — a monster building, silent and weather worn, which has not been used for months and may not be again for years. On the level near the stream are many piles of pig iron in gray bars. Each had a broken, rusty end, but other- wise had the look of WINb.SOK ,1'ALL^ PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 97 UESIDKNCK OF 51K?«. J. B. CRANE these woodpiles are several large, white cones where the wood is burned to charcoal. Several men were wheeling barrows of the four-foot sticks up an inclined causeway to an upper door of one of these kilns and I followed after to investigate. In the black interior was a man packing the wood in solid from base to apex. It held fifty cords, he said, and took twelve days to, burn it. A cone above was burning and I got to leeward of the smoke, went up close and looked it over. It was tightly closed, save for a few chance cracks and some small openings near the bottom where an occasional brick had been taken out. You would expect fifty cords of wood to make some noise in burning, but all I could hear was a faint sizzling of sap. Nor was aught to be seen save the smoke puffing out at the vent holes and a black ooze creeping downward from the cracks. As for heat, that was only perceptible when you approached very close. Cheshire has four little churches in its village group, a num- ber of quite handsome residences among the cottage houses whicli are therule, and several interesting old ones. It began to rain while I was touring the town and I hastened to a hotel. The most re- markable feature of my stopping place was the presence in the best room of two pic- tures in elaborate frames which were identical in size and subject. It is a mys- tery to me still how it could have happened that the place should possess these twin luxuries. The weather, next day, was still threaten- ing in spite of the papers promising fair and everybody's say- ing they thought it was going to clear soon. Had the weather been more promising, I would have made my trip more extended. As it was I took my way up the steep road of the eastern moun- tain, which led toward home. In a rough, cut- off clearing I came upon a chopper sitting on a log eating dinner from his tin pail. I made his picture, pie in hand, and he was very anxious I should send him a print. He said, " I know who'll be tickled to see that picture! It's my daughter." The road went on, up and up, through the woods much of the way, till, after long hours, I came out on Windsor hill. RKSIDENCF. Oi' SIRS. MARSHALL CRANi: ON A BACK PIAZZA ^ti n^'" I'f 'P ^^1 wm SOME OLD STOXF-S JuJk _-i' '<)a. UESIUKSUE OF MRS. JOHN D. CAKSON ^ OFFICE OF W. CKANB, AKD OLD CRASE HOUSE On the height, the highway was still a slough of mud in spots, and was badly washed in other places, and was at its worst in the shadow of the httle store at the crossroads. The twenty-foot snowdrift I had seen on the pasture slope two weeks before still held its own and looked as if it would last half the summer. The inhabitants of the hill could doubtless snowball on the fourth of July if they chose. At the school-house, within sight of the drift, many of the boys were barefoot. I continued down hill through the woods by a fine dashing strLam. The thank-you- marms of the road proved too much for the string with which I had mended my har- ness and I was alarmed to see the thills, on a steep descent, shoot up over the horse's 98 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE LKllKIM; 'Ju\\-Al;Lt I'll 1 M-ll.l,l> FKuM 1 1 1 Iv rlMKTEIIV lOWX Mill SI-; ASI> MR TIIUDIs !■ rilMICII UPPER MAIN STKCET — WESIONVILLK BUSINESS BLOCKS NEAR THE WESTON MILLS crossed the county line than the sun, as if in mockery, burst forth with great splendor and the clouds all about seemed to melt far back toward the horizon. The wet, sunlit landscape, framed by the uproUing, vapory cloud-maisses was very beautiful. Clifton Johnson. WINTER AMONG THE BERKSHIRE HILLS Summer dwellers lose much of the beauty of the Berkshire hills in winter. The northeasters bank the snow up against the locked doors and barred windows of the homes of the city comers, who always go away with the birds. But here and there are homes where the smoke curls out of the chimneys and where the walks are kept well shoveled between the front gate THE WESTON CHALET ON' MOUNT WESTON BAPTIST CHUnCH head. But the horse is one of the kind that is always glad to stop, and nothing serious was the result. Again the horse stumbled and one of the lines un- hitched from the bridle. At the same moment my um- brella caught in the wheel and made a great clattering. However, nothing broke, even with these complica- tions. When peace and order was restored it began to rain hard and so continued till I reached the valley bot- tom. But no sooner had I THE CKANE MILL, WHERE THE GOVERNMENT PAPER IS MANUFACTURED PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 9Q tLD BKKKSnil!!-. 5IU.T.S h\ IIIL 1 0^D SIDE — BERKSHIRE iiig of being drifted in with the snows of extreme weather, says : " The snow has been so heavy that for days the only morning paper I had was the sheet of fresh fallen snow in front of my window, which recorded the events of the night beforeto any one who had the eye to see them." " To any one who has an eye to see them," the beauties of winter in Berkshire will be held at as high a value as the glories of the summer time. To such " the winter of discontent never comes." " God exhibits himself in a frosted bush to-day, as much as he did in a burning bush to Moses of old." S. t. p. GLENMON "WOOLEN MILL — DALTON and the door. These are the homes of " the stayers " — the people who live here throughout the year and who love nature in her winter dress as well as in her summer one. A walk through the woods on one of the still, cold days of winter, over the crust of snow, is exhilarating and full of interest, especially if one walks as Thoreau suggested, "like a camel, which is said to be the only beast that ruminates when walking." The leafless trees are hung with icicles, r which sparkle in the sun like jewels, and the evergreens laden with snow are a beautiful sight. "The lady of the woods"— the white birch, with its silver sheen, stands in front of the background of evergreens ; pretty patches of green and brown moss lie on the cold, grey rocks. No sound is heard to break the solitude except the wood chopper's axe. or the "haw' and gee" of the farmer as he drives his oxen down the moun- tain road, with his load of fire- wood, We go up the elevations and we feel that we have reached one of the table-lands of the journey, and it becomes a mount of vision for us. The tints of the sunset sky are never more ethereal than at the closing of a cold winter's day, and the moon- light of a winter's night is marvel- ous in its beauty. True, in a sense the "country stayer" is shut in, and leads a more inward life than in the other seasons of the year. John Burroughs, speak- BKRESHIRE GEESE GRKTLOCK— LOOKING NORTH FROM THE WILTON FARM Berkshire Glass Sanq. — " Godfrey Greylock," in his book called "Taghconic," thus de- scribes the sand in Berkshire, which is used for making glass : " It was white and fine as the purest snow that is driven over our mountains. The i magination' can conceive of nothing more bril- liantly white than this mass glit- tering in a July sun. Strangers exhaust their rhetoric in their at- tempts at comparison — the driven snow, salt, loaf sugar, the silver fleece, the fleecy clpud, are all im- pressed into the service. One very young gentleman likened it to his lady's bosom ! " They tell a story of one, Mr. R., of Lanesboro, whose good lady had a box of this sand placed upon a shelf, close by a similar box of salt ; but the two getting somehow transposed, Mr. R. gave the sand to his horses, for salt, for some days, before he discovered hismis- take— for the beasts made no mention of it, although un- doubtedly they had it on their tongues." 100 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE WILLIAMSTOWN AND ITS COLLEGE The first time I saw Williams town was in the winter. In the morning, at sunrise, it had been biting cold and the snow was so solid and stiff it would hold one up, but as the day advanced the snow softened and the roads be- came slushy. The village of Williamstown is a mile distant from the station, and to get there I took the coach which I found in waiting at the platform and hung on while the vehicle pitched along over a road chiefly remarkable for the number of cradle holes it got in to the rod. The voyage ended in safety at the Taconic Inn and I at once began to explore the town. It is made up of one long, wide street, along which the houses and churches and college buildings cluster thickly, and of a 4 OS THE POND — BERKSHIRE type, and seems in peculiar har- mony with the country landscape. Williamstown has a remarka- bly charming situation. Its main street rambles up and down the several hills on which it is built and by which it is elevated above the meadow lands surrounding. Its horizon line is an unbroken circle of noble mountains. The wide, chief thoroughfare is a park of well-grown elms, and the village, as a whole and in detail, looks wellkept and thrifty. Among the comfortable homes are several wooden stores, one or two brick blocks, and two commodious sum- mer hotels, but most prominent, of course, are the college build- ings. Of these there are not far from twenty and, besides, a num- ber of well-built college fraternity houses. The proportion of new buildings of goodly size and handsome architecture is larger A MORNING VIEW OF BERKSHIRE VILLAGE number of side streets on which the dwellings soon become scattering till the streets are merely country roads running over the adjoining meadows and hills. Even far out there are occasional fine summer houses and in the main village are many of them. Of these the new Proctor house is especially notable and to my thinking there is not a more beautiful mansion in the country. It is in the large, square, white-painted colonial THE CHAPEL THE ROAD TO BERKSHIRE BALANCE ROCK— LANESBORO than fortune blesses most colleges with and their aspect is increasingly pleas- ing by reason of the fine setting the old town affords. The college began work just a century ago this year. 'The president and a single tutor did all the teaching and old West college served for dormitory, chapel and recitation rooms and whatever other purposes were necessary. It was the only building the college possessed. West coHege still stands and in spite of its age shows no signs of decrepitude. It has the appearance of being one of the kind that never wears out, and may be expected to at least last several hundred years to com e, though it may be necessary to occasionally replace the stone doorsills which the passing feet wear away grain by grain. This building stands on the highest knoll of the village, in the middle of the street, as if it were a fortress of defense to which the people might flee in case of assault. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lOl SCHOOL-HOUSE AND METHODIST CHURCH — LANESBORO In front of West college I met a man who said, in response to my inquiry, " Yes, Gar- field used to room in this building. He and my uncle used to sweep it out. Garfield was poor and besides sweeping had to cut wood to help out." Besides President Garfield, such men as Bryant the poet, several members of the famous Field family, William D. Whitney the noted philologist. Prof. A. L. Perry the political economist, and many others of scarcely less reputation are among the college graduates. Near the depot is a village so different from the one 1 have described, it seems hardly a part of the same town. The little Hoosac river wanders along through the hollow here and beneath an old-time covered wooden bridge. Close by is a great brick mill with Tllh: .si.K TH I.I:N r.XL- nl TIIF._\I1-LA LAXESBOBO VALLEY OLD COAL KILNS A FAEMHOI'SF. 102 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE rather than the boys. The way in which they were put on the head was very expressive. Some had a serious tilt forward ; some a jolly or free-and-easy position on the back of the head ; others had a don't-care or desperate twist sidewise. Without doubt they to some degree expressed the mental attitude of the wearer. They certainly had much more character than the stiff derbies which still linger, or the little caps some wore that stuck to their heads like a clamshell to a clam. It was prijme snowballing this particular day and the boys were improving the occasion to the best of their ability. Every time a class came from a hall and began to scatter on the street, the fellows who broke off from the main gang went in a storm of flying balls. Whenever one took a side path he made a dash to gain a safe distance, and then turned GRAVE OF JOSHfBILLIKGS ''Vt W^ -^^-^'^'^r -3'^'/'*^f '"* ' '^"\' ' y"'^' ^^4 ^^^^ '"'^ "" "- ON THE VALLEY ROAD BIRTHPLACE OF JOSH BILLINGS LANESBORO CEMETERY ti^'-'. '*''^''' -«. BAPTIST CHLECH attendant rows of white wooden houses. While in this neighborhood I saw a horse flying along a side street, dragging a vacant sleigh. It turned a sharp corner and in a flash the sleigh tipped over and went scraping and plunging along on its side.- Asiit dashed on toward the town, men and boys came into the street and began chasing and yelling. As nearly all the yelling was in the horse's rear he went none the slower on that account. In the evening at the hotel the comment on the runaway was in this wise : " He was a young horse and that's his third time running away. He's spoilt now. He's got the notion 'o running and he'll do it every chance he gets — might just as well sell him to the horse railroad. He'll never be safe anywhere else." The college boys about town, in the main, wore the slouch hats that have recently become the fashion, and they were a curious study — I mean the hats GRAVE OF JONATHAN SMITH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 103 IIKMil' W. SHAW — "JOSH BILLINGS ■A boy Things I Don't Hanker After to See.- under fifteen with over fifteen bad habits. A man who has more hair under his nose than knows under his hair. It is not only highly natral tew luv the feriiail sek, but tis highly pleasant. Verry few people enjoy munny, bekause tha kant git enufi uv it. Dew a good turn whenever you kan even if you hav tew turn sumboddy's grinstun tu dew it. The word " kolide," used bi ralerode men, haz an in- definit meaning tew menny folks. Thru the kindness of a nere and dear frend, i am able tew translate the wurd so that enny man ken understand it at onst. The term " kolide " is used tew explain the sarcumstance ov trains of cars triing tew pass each uther on a single trak. It is ced that it never yet haz bin did suckcessfully, hense a "kolide." Josh Billings. EPISCOPAL CHUKCH to return the fire. Once a fellow threw a snowball through a glass case on a lamp-post. The sound of breaking glass seemed to exhilarate. the students' souls and they joined in a general fusillade of the partly dismantled lamp. I understood, however, that such performances were exceptional and that the students, as a rule, were very considerate of other people's property. . In the afternoon I was astonished by the sight of a student running in a wild sort of fashion through the sloppy streets straight along the middle of the way. He was bareheaded and his long hair was flying in a breezy tangle. Except for his black stockings he was dressed in a complete suit of white. I watched him out of sight and wondered what was the matter with him. He ♦V THE SCHOOLBOY A DISTRICT SCHOOL-HOUSE NORTH OF LANESBORO tains looming along the hori- zon make a grand frame for the quiet beauty they inclose. This time in town I made views of the house of Presi- dent Hopkins, who for so many years was at the head of the college and whose thought and teaching have been an inspiration to so many of the students who were in his classes. In an evergreen grove beyond this substantial dwelling is a monument which commemo- rates thefact thatonthat spot AJI OLD TIMER had such a look of serious con- cern on his face I concluded he could not be out for pleasure. I visited Wiiliamstown again in June. It was a debatable question whether it was more beautiful then than in winter. The snows bring out all the graceful contours of the hills, and the trees without their leafage allow one many delightful views of the mountains that are hidden in summer. Nevertheless, nature is sleeping in snowtime and many prefer the world of green into which it is transformed a few months later. The town is then enveloped in foliage and, from with- out, the towers and a few high roofs are about all there is to be seen. The village street with its lines of fine old trees and clean lawns is like a park, and the grassy slopes and meadows around, with their symmetrical, isolated elms, are no less delightful, while the blue moun- Gt>V£BNOR BRIGGS 104 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE creature,'' that later was carried into execution by several of the party, who were among the first and most notable of our foreign missionaries. It was commencement time and the seniors, who were to leave next day, had " high jinks " that night, whatever those may be. At any rate, I was given to understand that "high jinks " were somewhat devious and mysterious in their nature and that they lasted till after midnight. The latter fact was not >' *4pJi^-'i ON THE ROAD TO NEW ASnFORD the American Board of Foreign Missions made its start. The story is, that in a neigl- boring field the students, in the early days of the century, were in the habit of gathering to prayj Once a thunderstorm drove them to the shelter of a haystack, and while the rain drenched the landscape, the thought and purpose came to " preach the gospel to every A MOUNTAIN VIEW— NtW ASHFOHD H|||||iii^> ^'■isjNr IN A PASTURE conducive to the early ris- ing of the participants, and in the morning breakfasts were hurried and some run- ning was indulged in to get to chapel on time. The seniors on this occasion wore gowns, and little caps with a square top piece and a tassel, and one of their number said the class look- ed very fine all up in the front seats at chapel. My chief impression of the gowns was that they were not very good to run in. The morning was mild, the fields were dewy and blue mists were trailing about the hills. By the time the sun had fairly gained possession of the valley realm about I betook myself to the depot to await the next train east. AN \U'rUSIN UEAN STACK ^'y^'yii/'.. ,^y^^-s^. A I>AT*S FISHING A TFARM IH THE VALLET PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE OLD MEETING-HOUSE IN LANESBORO 105 Embowered in spreading elms and maples, it stands on a hill set apart for the purpose in the original allotment of the land, and before a single house had been built in the township. Its square belfrey, surmounted by the traditional white-painted spire, overlooks a rich valley bounded on either side by sentinel hills. The meeting-house itself, a plain, brick ,.::«?- ,' '.» ■ r-if' NEW ASHFORD HILLS ON THE KOAD WEST OF THE VILLAGE HBW ASHFOBD NEAR THE TOWN structure, has outlasted for many generations those who originally raised its walls and offered praise and prayer within them. What praise that was — "in the use of the Old Hundredth hymn" — lustily rendered by bass viol, violin and chorus choir ! With what vigor and skill the well-remembered leader guided his singers through the intricate mazes of the anthem or brought out their full lung power in " Crown Him Lord of all ! " To-day the broad white doors stand hospitably open as they have on so many Sabbaths past, and the bell peals out its summons, echoing and reverberating from the eternal hills, which caressingly, pr6tectingly shut in the little hamlet on everyside. Indeed, they seem to joininthe everlastingpsalmandtoringinthe day when the "mountains and hills shall break forth into singing" — and shall echo the joy of the whole earth as they have so long echoed its groaning and woe. With other summer guests, and the few remaining descendants of the sturdy founders of this church, we ascend the steps of broad, white flagging, cut from the neighboring quarries, and enter the ancient sanctuary. The bell has ceased its measured tolling and the audience — painfully small in com- parison to olden times — is seated in a solemn hush. Here was our child- hood's home ; yet by very few among those there are we recognized and bid welcome with kindly greeting — still for us the whole room is filled with the presence of those who worshiped there in years gone by. We are again seated in the old family pew where once our childish feet swung helplessly, guiltless of any contact with the floor and where we whiled -away the "seventhly and eighthly " sermons and "long prayer " by counting over and over again the diamond-shaped panes in the old windows. Perhaps these were open in the drowsy summer afternoons and a buzzing fly or wander- ing bee would saunter in, greatly to the delight of restless youngsters ; or, yielding to the soporific influ- ences of the place and hour, our little heads sank lower and lower till, pillow- ed on father's arm or on moth- er's lap, we slept, blissfully uncon- scious of the "decrees" of " election, justi- fication "and the terrible realities of sin and sor- row which make the message of a Saviour so in- finitely precious to human hearts. The old church has been much changed since thatunconscious child slept there. A fine new pul- pithas supplant- ed the high box affair with its immense sound- ing board be- hind it. The galleries and the old square pews ^ piotukesque ratihe io6 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE AN IIISTOBIC BARN THE KOAD NORTH OF NEW ASHFORD vanished lorrg ago, and even those which replaced thetti, are now old. The diaraond- paned windows, too, are gone and the greater comfort of the neat inside blinds hardly atones to us for the loss of the old-fashioned windows — our solace through the weary sermon-time. We miss them as we do the faces of our early friends, and how the well-known forms arise before us as we sit in the old place to-day ! In memory's vision, before us sits the SOUTH WHiLIAMSTOWN HILLS squire's family — " a rosebud garland of girls " long since blossomed into the fullness of reliant womanhood. The squire, a distinguished-looking man, with massive brow, sits at the end of the pew, with gold-headed cane between his knees. Here was a man whose fame was by no means local, who had been a member of the chief legislative council of our land, and a personal friend of men whose names will be forever enrolled among their country's most valued sons. Nor is the squire's the only name which would be known, should we mention it here; for, not far away sits a young lawyer who afterwards became the governor of his state. And so, from out these old white churches on the New England hillsides have gone forth noble men and women with stalwart faith and consecrated zeal to become bone and sinew of city churches ; to plant the faith of their fathers in new states and territories; to maintain all that LOOKING INTO SOUTH WILLIAMSTOWN j / 1 ^'^ V 1| ^ \ 1 il4 V ' t 1^ 1 ) 1 "5]l I ^ A ROADSIDE VIEW A MANSION ON THE HILL PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 107 THE CHURCH AT SOUTH WILLIAMSTOWN is best and truest in our American life, and to hand down to future genera- tions the priceless heritage of a God-fearing ancestry. At the other end of the squire's pew sits his sweet-faced wife, who counts the welfare of this zion above her "chief joy." She is the president of the ' ladies' society, of the missionary association, and, next to those of the minis- ter's.wife, her opinions are sought and respected. She would merit the title of lady in its original derivation of "loaf-giver," did she not by rank or blood. Behind her is another dear old " mother in Israel." Always can that placid face be seen in its place and with it is associated in our memory the slowly waving palm-leaf fan of summer days, and the little foot- stove carried on her arm into the unwarmed pew for winter com- fort. At this moment the faint odor of fennel an d caraway steals across our senses and a white hand SOUTH WILLIAMSTOT^-K HANCOCK — DlfSBKTED surreptitiously reaches us a few sprigs. Across the aisle is Deacon T., his grey head and broad shoulders bent in prayer; Deacon D. comes slowly down the aisle _.: with contribution box in hand, and Deacon S. sits with keen black eyes fixed on the parson, for, with theological lance in rest, he anticipates the passage at arms that shall ensue the next time they shall be slowly pacing together under the branching elms of the village street. There is sweet Lucy T., the belle of the village, whose pretty face and dainty gf.wns charmed /jj A LOOK TOWARD THE MOUNTAINS scenes of her happy girlhood. How the shadows throng around the pastor's pew ! Here sits the minister's young wife whose thoughts are dis- tracted from her husband's best efforts by anxiety lest the young olive branches at her side may, by some more out- rageous prank than usual, cause an exchange of knowing LOG HOUSE BETWKFN HANCOCK AXD LVSESBOKO our childish fancy. Poor girl! The de- sire of half the county, she married a worthless fellow at last and now oc- casionally wanders back in widowhood and sadness to visit the graves of her parents and the A VALLEY SAWMILL io8 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE nearly through his sermonistic effort, (we fear we cannot even tell what the text was,) and the doxology, wheezed out by the little cabinet organ in the corner, recalls us as in an awakening from a dream to the present, but we feel that we have to-day almost "joined the choir invisible!" have worshiped in the old meeting- house with the "great majority." If this visit has taught us anything, it is the necessity of " strengthening the things that remain." All honor to the brave few, diminished in numbers by removals and death, who are striving to keep the candle alight in the old place ; and shall not those whose paths may stretch far from the old church door, but who tenderly recall the old associations of the ancient house of God, encourage by prayer, sympathy and perhaps financial aid these feeble churches in the hill towns? There are still lost sheep on the hillsides and the watch-fires of pure religion should be kept alight on the mountain tops. Anna M-. Fuller. THE WILLIAMSTOWN ELM looks among the sages, as if to say : '^A^inister's children! What else can you expect?" As this vision fades, the saintly face of another minister's wife is seen. Rapt with an almost more than mortal beauty, that eager, uplifted countenance inspires the burning words of faith and zeal which fall to us from her husband's lips and in her own sweet daily life she is to us a "living epistle, known and read of all men." Here also sits a little auburn-haired girl who has since traveled far from her father's first parish and has served her father's God and her own, for many ^ - years as a missionary in India. In the pulpit, instead of the young student - preacher whose bodily presence occupies it to-day, a succession of shadowy forms rise and fade away before us as dissolv- ing views on a panoramic canvas. Here stand grave men, high-browed and stern, whose arrows theologic are hurled with a zest ; men whose reputation has been by no means circumscribed and whose influence none can measure. Fatherly faces smile kindly down upon us and the white hands raised in benediction have often patted our childish heads. The young student is TWILIGHT IN TRAINING THE HANCOCK KOAD BETWEEN SOUTH "WILLIAMSTOWN AMD HAHCOCE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lOQ t 1 '^ _^^J< ^'^ ri E xJ^i + • s » THE WILLIAMSTOWN KLM — SPRING AMONG THE HANCOCK HILLS A DIP IN THE ROAD PROFANITY WITH PROVOCATION and woe to him who could not hold it, or who failed to "heel in" and "point out " properly. If one, lacked muscle, he must make it up in keeping a keener edge on his scythe. There must be three strokes between mowers ; anything more was lagging, anything less was crowding. From overwork and exposure farmers broke down instrength earlier in life then than now, and had to take their place with the children in spreading swaths and carrying drink. While whetting the scythes, which had to be done every few rods, there was lively banter and brag among the mowers, much of it theological, but there was very little profanity. I remember being with such a gang, where "the old man" had been sent back on one occasion a quarter of a mile, for a jug of the favorite drink — sweetened water and ginger, with a dash of vinegar. The old man in this case was a good deacon, with a countenance of such'profound solemnity and gravity, that, as Charles Lamb would have said, Newton might have deduced Before the days of the horse mower and reaper, it was always an interesting sight to See half a dozen stalwart mowers swing off on a big meadow, keeping stroke with mili- tary precision, and taking turns in the lead. It was the incarnation of democracy, each one being a leader in turn. The pace was set by whoever was leader for the time being. 1 A CIDER UILL IN HANCOCK VILLAGE HANCOCK HOMES no PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE the law of gravitation from it. Just as he reached the group of mowers, who were rnopping their brows and casting out tobacco quids, preparatory to a good swig, the bottom dropped out of the jug. The old man stood a moment, looking in a dazed way, alternately at the bottom on the ground, and the empty shell in his hand, and then slowly ejaculated to himself, "That — beats — the — devil! " One or two of the more impenitent sinners among the mowers smiled a little, but the rest were horrified at the good deacon's unheard-of profanity. They could hardly have been more shocked if the minister, in taking his sermon from his pocket on Sun- day morning, had pulled out a deck of cards with it. The deacon made proper con- fession the next Sunday, but claimed great provocation ! e. r. b. IIAMCOCK CHURCH Curiosities of Natural History. — The following facts, though remarkable, are not solitary; several similar cases are recorded. In 1806 a strong and beautiful bug ate its way out of a table made from an apple, tree which grew on the farm of Major General Putnam, in Brooklyn, Conn., and which was brought to Williamstown when his son, Mr. P. S. Putnam, removed to that town. It was cut down in 1786, sixty-five years after it was transplanted, and if the tree was then fifteen years old, it was eighty years old when it was cut down. As the cortical layers of the leaf of the table are about sixty, and extend within about five of ihe heart, as the inner ones are quite convex, about fifteen layers have been cut off from the outside. In 1814 a third bug made his way out, the second having appeared two "I'M RISING NINETY-FOUR" GRETLOCK OF GRF.TLOCK [See also page 91] The patriarch of Elmwood, Iiending low with weight of years, His handsome face a record true of countless smiles and tears, Passed down the street with feeble step, the setting sun the while Touching with gold his snowy hair, symbol of Heaven's smile. A trav'ler paused beside him, with, "Your pardon, aged sire, I come irom good old Berkshire, and your blessing I desire " "God bless you, then," the old man sighed, " 'Twas there I dwelt of yore, Tell the boys at ' Cheshire Corners ' that I'm rising ninety-four. " They'll be coming from ' The Kitchen,' from ' The Notch,' and ' Stafford's Hill,'— 'Twas in 'The Notch 'that I was born, I see the old home still.— Tell them, if down at ' Wolcott's Hall' they dance the ' Money Musk,' I'm with them in the spirit, though my body's but a husk ! Take a message to my brother George,;'twill do his old heart good ; Tell my sister,"— here the old man stopped, a moment doubt- ing stood, — " Alas, how I forget myself ! they all have gone before, While I^lone am waiting, and I'm rising ninety four ! " Take an old man's greeting to his friends, if any yet remain In the dear old town of Cummington, for there with might and main. ON THE SHORE OF BERRT POKD OUTLET OF BERRY POND We fought the demon slav- ery,and there the proph- ets came, To kindle in that moun- tain nook fair freedom's sacred flame." A gleam of joy illumined then the sage's wrinkled face, As sunshinetints aruin old With transient glow and grace ; " Ah, glorious days were those," said he, "but I shall fight no more ; I'm weary, and would rest me, for I'm rising ninety- four." The old man's voice grew weak and hoarse, a tear bedewed his cheek. His eyes put on a far-off look, as he went on to speak,— _ " My dear ones, they are sleeping in the mountain graveyard lone. The Hoosac sings their lullaby when gentle south winds moan ; Remember poor old ' Grey- lock,' sir, if e'er you pass the spot, For they were true and tender, and shall never be forgot ; If friends of mine are liv- ing still, O bless them o'er and o'er,— How gladly would I meet them — but I'm rising ninety-four I " E. R. Brown. Elmwood^ III.^ i8q3. or three years before. The last bug came forth from nearest the heart, and forty-five cortical layers distant on the supposition of its age, from the outside. The tree had now been cut down twenty-eight years. Of course the egg must have been deposited in the wood seventy-three years before. This bug ate about three inches along the grain, till it emerged into the light. The eating of the insect was heard for weeks before its appearance. These facts were given by Mr. Putnam, in whose possession the table still remains, and were first published in the Repertory at Middlebury, Vt., in i8i6. One of the bugs, preserved for some time by the Rev. Dr. fitch, " was about an inch and one- fourth long and one-third inch in diameter; color dark glistening brown, with tints of yellow." — History of Berkshire, fiage jg. A (iUMl-MC )F CflKSRIUE liESFKVoIR PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE III MARK AND ALBERT HOPKINS FLUKK LELASn The brothers Mark and Albert Hopkins were united, not simply by kinship, but by intellectual affinity and by an inti- mate and life-long participation in the same successful under- taking. Their inheritance from ancestry was of a positive and commanding type. The New England temper, in its more liberal and cultivated form, came to them as a birth- right. They were, by the inevitable drift of their lives, men of refined and earnest sentiments, of large and generous intellectual activity. Their native gifts, their early surround- ings, their later training, and the duties which enclosed them all lay in one direction. They seemed to find, to create and to take possession of a world congenial to them as they went forward. The field of their activity was not an ambitious, nor ap- parently a wide one, but they rendered it most memorable and serviceable. Born in Stockbridge, — the one in 1802, the other in 1807,— they were both graduated at Williams college, were soon associated in instruction in the institution, and spent their lives in Williamstown. The younger brother became professor of mathematics and natural philosophy in 1829; and the older brother, of moral philosophy and rhetoric in 1830. Albert Hopkins remained a professor till his death, in 1872. His work in later years was confined, first to natural philosophy and astronomy, and at length to astronomy. Mark Hopkins became president of the college in 1836, and retained this office till 1872. His chief line of instruction was moral and intellectual philosophy. This vvjrk he continued after his resignation, till his death in 1887. No two men have been more completely identified with Berkshire county, have more perfectly expressed its best phase of life, have more rejoiced in its liberal gifts or more freely added to them, than these two brothers. The college, the best- known and most influential institution in the county, owes much of its growth and power to them. They were admirably fitted to work together, and to perform successfully the particular task which fell to them. The progress of the college was simply the unfolding of their own powers and preferences. Neither of them was desirous of any more prominent position than that he held, or any more conspicuous service than that he was rendering. Their successes were slowly accumulative through long lives, and in the end they found, even beyond an- ticipation, that they had built up a college ready to carry on to remote periods their labor and their memory. They were fortunate in their surroundings. They were able to exert a powerful personal influence over young men. They had, also, the wisdom to see that this was an ample and adequate task for any man to perform. They were appreciative of the the high character of their work, and rendered it with unfailing enthusiasm. There were points of striking contrast, as well as of agreement, between them. They supplemented each other in giving character and strength to the college. They were both possessed of an even, spiritual temper, but the one on the emotional and prophetic side, the other on the intellectual and practical side. The one called out TOWN HALL AKD BAPTIST GBCRCH, CHESHIRE insight by insight, by a quick, flash-like response tothe import of spiritual things; the other deliberately unfolded and en- forced the reasons of faith, and made faith seem wide, rational and constructive. In the one case, the emotion gave rise to rapturous vision; in the other, the reposeful vision called out firm and sufficient belief. Both men were steadfast in their spiritual moods, but the strength of the one was more instinctive, and of the other more reflective. Both loved to come in contact with men, met them easily, and impressed themselves strongly on those they met, but the words of the younger came forth from a more personal and pungent atmosphere, one charged with more electric and spiritual impulses. The older brother took a wider, more social pleasure in men and delighted in a play of thought that readily included both the jocose and the serious. He did not so much bring a controlling temper with him, as give scope and vivacity to the temper already present. Professor Hopkins was strongly drawn to nature, de- lighted in its study, and entertained ^a genuine enthusiasm for its beauty. 1 Dr. Hopkins, while sensitive to physical , objects, sought persons rather than things, = was social in his nature, and formed his habitual pleasure in keeping step with the thoughts of men. The philosophy of the one was natural philosophy; and of the other, moral philosophy. Profes- sor Hopkins strove to bring the inspi- ration he formed in the world to men as an immediate revelation; Presi- dent Hopkins endeavored to widen the processes of mind till they enclosed great fields of light. The one brother was active, athletic, full of physical impulse; the other was slow, physically sluggish, and used his large resources simply as so much fuel with which to maintain mental heat and vivacity. Both owed much to bodily en- dowments. Professor Hopkins, tall, erect, firmly knit, with a sharp eye and overhang- ing eyebrow, made the impression of re- serve penetrative power. Dr. Hopkins, large of frame and deliberate in movement, with an open, intellectual and genial face, imparted dignity to speech, and used n '.v.. #r. UNIVEKSALIST CHURCH CHESHIRE CORNER his physical gifts as a favorable pedestal from which to win the eyes and ears of men. The college, slowly gaining breadth and reputation, chiefly by their influence, owed them a very different debt. In instruction, its leading obligation to Professor Hopkins was an earlier and wider interest in natural science than might otherwise have fallen to it. But this influence was by no means so extensive or superior as to have assigned him the position he actually held in the college. His true kingdom was a much larger one. It lay in the world of spiritual impressions. He himself pos- sessed, and so carried with him, a sense of nearness and reality in connection with the higher and more fugitive convictions of his faith altogether unusual. No one ap- proached him in this respect. In all that touched the religious life of the college, as an actual experience of spiritual things, he ruled and ruled alone. It was not easy to shake off the sense of invisible relations in a college or in a community in which he (Continued on(pag& 113) 112 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE MiiTHoi*iSr CHUKCH LOOKING SOUTH FROMlTHE SCHOOL 'BTJILDING PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 113 MARK AND ALBERT HOPKINS (Continued from page iii) was present as their constant witness. He had the true prophetic spirit, the same in all ages — vision, the product of personal life, personal life momen- tarily renewed by vision. His charac- ter was so faultless that it brought no limitation to his words, even in close contact with sharp-eyed and critical young men. Faith in him as a man enabled him to bear the prophetic mantle as he rendered to us spiritual things. Rarely has one ever inspired more awe, or awakened more suddenly overpowering belief than he speaking from the mount of revelation. There was that in him also which addressed strongly the imagination and grew in successive classes as a mythical con- ception of the man. For many years he did not so much guide, as consti- tute, the religious life of the college. He maintained a daily prayer meeting CHESHIRE, ON THE OVTPKIRTS in which the petition of our Lord found most direct answer,— Give us this day our daily bread. Professor Hopkins, like his brother, was especially fitted to deal with young men, and it is hudly possible to find another example of:so peculiar, so pro- tracted and so powerful an influence as that which he exerted over the students of Williams college. and fully to him. The alumni of Wil- liams college have been remarkable for their loyalty to the institution, and the secret of it has been in a large meas- ure in their personal relations of its earlier years. Nothing is so signifi- cant to life as life itself; and without it, the accessories of life are one and all burdensome. The Dr. Hopkins work, in its variety and amplitude, gathered about this one center. He was primarily a teacher, and so a preacher and a philosopher. His sermons were addressed in the same wide and awakening way to the minds of men. His books, were lectures on themes he had handled in the recita- tion room, and his influence everywhere was that of one who knew how to quicken and guide in a clear, practical way the intellectual processes of his own generation. Every man of power strikes the circle of his life around some dominant center. It includes or excludes spaces ir FEEDINO THE SHEEP LOOKING INTO THE VILLAGE FROU THE SOUTH here and there as they stand related to the superior tendency. The elaboration of truth, not as a fine-spun theory, an abstraction personal to the thinkers, but as a spiritual process and practice between men and men, was the crowning faculty and force of Dr. Hopkins. To this work he gave himself, where this work is most fascinating and far reaching, in the training of young men. He overlooked many things. He took little satisfaction in accumulation — the material of knowledge so easily becoming the rubbish of knowledge — or in handling the details of life, but he chose, with the clear election of a large mind, that good part which the progress of years shall not take from him. Berkshirelias no more picturesque features, in its social unfoldingj than these Dr. Hopkins was much superior to his brother as an instructor. His^'powers all culminated in the recitation room. He brought to it a genial interest in young men, a pleasure in making and guiding their thoughts, — slow or nimble as they chanced, — a large, free and fearless handling of the topics of discussion, and a sportive satisfaction in the responsive attitudes different minds were taking in the rapid fling of the truth, backward and forward. In the active rebound of thought he showed the dexterity and pleasure of a boy playing his ball against a barn. Many teachers have given more information than President Hopkins ; few indeed as much impulse as he. He was not avaricious of knowledge. He preferred rather the power of the mind itself, and he made of instruction an intellectual gymnastic in which his pupils put their strength to instant exercise. If this end — effort directed toward the truth — was reached, he cared little what particular opinions and facts had furnished the occasion for it. He belonged to that earlier school which is always passing out of vogue and always returning into vogue according to the measure of our personal powers, that school in which life andlifeonly is relied on to beget life. With the immense accumulation of the material of knowledge which has overtaken us, the pupil is often put to the hard work of harvesting facts, till eager in acquisition and slow in assimilation he says to himself, I must pull down my intellectual barns and build greater that I may have where to store my goods. The person knowing was always greatly superior with Dr. Hopkins to the thing known, and he never undertook to add dignity to moderate endowments by loading them down with stuffed panniers. This spirit made his exercises delightful even to the less eager minds, and few teachers have called out the respect and persorjq.1 aftacbnjent which fell so readily THE TRON FURNACE INDEX TO TEXT EDITORIAL Introductory, Notable Men and Women in Berkshire, Picturesque Western Massachusetts Complete, Some Facts about Berkshire County, . Trials of the Early Settlers, . What the Book Is and Is Not, CONTRIBUTED A Berkshire County Eel Story, A. E. Bartlett, A Greylock Pilgrimage, Elbridge Kingsley, A Story with an Application, Edwin R. Brown, Great Origins in Berkshire, H. M. Plunkett, Greylock. A Poem, Julia Taft Bayne, PAGE 5 27 6 65 S2 74 Greylock of Greylock, Edwin R. Brown, "I'm Rising Ninety-Four," E. R. Brown, Maplewood Institute, Anna L. Dawes, Mark and Albert Hopkins, Prof. John Bascom, Profanity with Provocation, E. R. B., Teaching in a Country School, Henrietta S. Nahmer, The Agassiz Association, Harlan H. Ballard, The Dear Old Homes of Berkshire, Susan Teall Perry, The Old Meeting House in Lanesboro, Anna M. Fuller, The Pet Holstein. A Poem, Laura Sanderson, The Ride About the County, Clifton Johnson, Pittsfield, PAGE no 3° .1" 109 36 24 105 North Adams, Clarksburg, Adams, Ches- hire, Windsor, 45 North Adams and Adams, .... 68 Windsor Jams, Savoy, Florida, . . 71 Peru, Hinsdale, Dalton, Berkshire, . 80 Lanesboro, New Ashford, South Williams- town, Hancock, 84 Williamstown and its College, . . 100 Two Eccentric Ministers 114 Winter Among the Berkshire HillSj S. T. P., 98 Woodland Tramps, Arthur Harrison, 42 SELECTED 72 An Endless Variety of Scenery, , -115 A Pen Description of the Berkshire Hills u 19 Oliver Wendell Holmes, . . 114 ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece. Greylock. Elbridge Kingsley. TOWNS AND VILLAGES DESCRIBED PAGE Adams, 72-78 Blackinton, ... ... 46-47 Maple Grove, 77-78 Cheshire, 110-115 Clarksburg, 71 Dalton, Florida, Hancock, Hinsdale, HoosAC Tunnel, LanesborouGh, . Berkshire, New Ashford, . North Adams, . Peru, . 90-99 Pittsfield, . 68 Savoy, . 107-109 Williamstown, 86 South Williamstown, . 70-71 Windsor, . 99-103 AUenville, . 99-100 Windsor Jams, 104-106 East Windsor, . 34-50 Windsor Hill, 83 Wahconah Falls, . • 6-33 . 62-67 51-61 107-109 . 79-82 81 61 82 81 82 CiARK W. Brtas Compart, PrinfCTs, SPRiNGprELi). Mass. UJ o a I I- o oc a z z EC H UJ < tu =)■ CO < Hi Picturesque Berkshire PART II-SOUTH Complete in Two Parts, with 1200 Illustrations PICTURESQUE PUBLISHING COMPANY NORTHAMPTON, MASS. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Picturesque Berkshire Published by the Picturesque Publishing Co., Northampton, Mass. CHARLES F. WARNER, Editor and Manager. This work is published in two parts, showing north and south sections of the county. Uniform with previously issued volumes of the " Picturesque " series. Price, Family Edition, in one volume. Cloth, $4 ; each part separately bound, $2 each. Holiday Edition, both parts, $6. The book will be sent, post or express paid, on receipt of check or money order. Address THE W. F. ADAMS COMPANY, Old Corner Bookstore, Springfield, Mass. Other Publications of the Picturesque Publishing Company Northampton, Mass. Comprising the four western counties in Massachusetts (with Berkshire as above) as follows : Picturesque Hampshire. In one volume, uniform in style with Picturesque Berkshire. Cloth, $2. Picturesque Franklin. In one vplume, uniform with the above named. Cloth, $2. Picturesque Hampden. In two parts, showing east and west sides of the county. Family Edition, in one volume. Cloth, $4 ; in separate parts, also Cloth, $2. Uniform with the series. Any of the above named publications will be sent on receipt of price named, in the form of a check or postal note. Address THE W. F. ADAMS COMPANY, Old Corner Bookstore, Springfield, Mass. IN PREPARATION: " Picturesque Worcester," " Picturesque Catskills," '" Picturesque Detroit," " Picturesque Boston." COPYKlGHt, 1893. BV THE PiCTURESyUE PUBLISHING CO., Norchampton, MisS. NTROD The -traveler, passing from the northern to the southern part of a pleasant land, leaving scenes which have lighted the eye and thrilled the' sense, will often find himself unexpectedly confronted by new visions of loveliness, surpassing any he has left behind. His past impressions are by no means obliterated ; on t^ie other hand, his joy in the treasures of beauty whicli his eye caught up and engraved qn his, memory is intensified by the newer visions. For in the illimita- ble capacities of the sense of beauty, no object once seen can be suppressed, but all objects cling together in one harmonious impression. In this Second Part of Picturesque Berkshire, in which we traverse the south- ern section of the county, we trust that those whose eyes dwell on these pages, as well as those who have studied the First Part, will find open to themthe happy experi- ences of the fortunate traveler. No doubt the settlement of Berkshire in- volved almost incredible hardships. The wilds were subdued in the face of constant perils from the savage foe. The pioneer, as he with immense labor made a clearing in the primeval forest, doubtless deplored the extra toil which the removal of these huge growths cost him, be- fore he could prepare his land for the seed. But Nature, in her exuberance, took no thought of human ease. Yet is there not great wisdom manifest in the distri- bution of her favors? Are there not compensations to atone for the hardships she imposes ? ^ The toil-worn farmer in his hillside home, glancing over" his cultivated acres, and remembering how the swinging axe had to precede the plough, how the cpn- suming fire had to complete the work the axe begun — but still happy in the pride he feels in his native hjUs ; still conscious of the vigor with which the free moun- tain air had nerved his arm ; of the priceless health with which his children had grown to hardy manhood and beautiful womanhood — does he think he would exchange places with the pioneer of the prairie, with its inevitable malaria, its sickly atmosphere infected with chills and fever, and without a single hill in sight to relieve the dreary monotony of the dull, flat and painful expanse? The plain may have grown no tim- ber to be first cleared away, but it is destitute of'" THE MODERN LENOX VILLA mountain breezes and inspiring summit-views, and all those charms which bring calm content to him who dwells where the deadly cyclone can never paralyze him with its midnight dread. So the Berkshire farmer may gaze on fields made fertile by toil. Labor has won- its triumphs; the wildness of Nature has been tamed, and he may cast no look of regret at sunnier and warmer lands. But the landscape is not yet complete in its possible beauty. And now comes Art, with its hand- maid Wealth to complete the picture. The more generous instincts of our common nature are not to be stifled in the crowded marts of trade, and the glare of Fashion cannot blind the eye to the glories of the hillside, the cloud and the sunset. An intelligent .sense of beauty, armed with the ample resources elsewhere garnered, now surveys the scene, and splendid improvements are to adorn the barren wastes. A new style of architecture supplants the old. The square and bare box of a dwelling has had ils day. It was the best the early settler could con- struct, and let him have all praise that for his time he could do so well. But now on a site selected by the best taste, the modern villa attests the progress of Art — affluent of varied an2;Ics and far-seeing towers, rich in cornice and capital, magnificent in outline — the crowning beauty of the scene. And where are the nobler qualities of human nature displayed in more useful service than where man devotes his means and his genius to the work of adorning the face of Nature, and applying the pruning knife to the lavish excess with which she has loaded the green earth ? Here an obstruction is to be leveled, there an unsightly ravine to be filled — prosaic methods, to be sure, but very poetic in results. In one place are terraces ; in another, lawns. And, when impertinent objects are cleared away, a new landscape appears, the very shimmer of which is the breath of undreamed-of rapture. And so the natural adornment is made more lovely by the touch of Beauty. Man does nowhere seek, indeed, to "gild refined gold," or to "add a new perfume to the violet ; " but his labor may fairly challenge admiration when he brings the hidden gold from its native recesses to glisten in the sunlight, and clears away the dead leaves that have choked the violet, that it may unfold its matchless loveliness and send its fra- grance heavenward. Nor are these beauties entirely cov- ered by tide deeds, for the humblest citizen of Berkshire is entitled to feel a personal pride as he gazes on the wonderful de- velopments of Nature and Art in these hills and valleys. As the summer visitors throng to these abodes — and nearly every town is enlivened by their presence — the darker cares of life fly before their advent. The resources of refined taste are devoted to the forms of recreation which the season invites. ^>.' "" ' Nor can it all be con- fined to an exclusive world. The passing " Tally-ho " summons girls to the windows of farmhouses and boys to the farm fences. And while Music sends its notes out on the still night air, and Beauty whirls in the rapture of the mazy dance — while the hills re-echo the sounds of pleasure — it is not to be forgotten that the native youth and maiden are sharers in all this free and fair delight. Thus it is to be hoped that in a winter home in the distant city, the pages of Picturesque COMFORTABLE rARMIIOUSE A GLIMPSE THROUGH A NOTCH IX THE JIODSTAISS Berkshire will become a memento of happy hours passed in this beautiful land, while in many a farm- house fond eyes will linger on the beauties of famihar scenes. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE SOUTHERN "SENTINEL" SONG TO BERKSHIRE Tune : " The Old Oaken Bucket ' Dear Berkshire, dear birthplace, the hills are thy towers, Those lofty fringed summits of granite and pine ; No valley's green lap is so spangled with flowers. No stream of the wildwood so crystal as thine. Say, where do the March winds such treasures uncover? Such maple and arrow-wood burn to their full. As up the blue peaks where the thunder gods hover In cloud-curtained Berkshire who cradled us all? Then here's to old Berkshire, To granite-ribbed Berkshire, To cloud-curtained Berkshire who cradled us all ! The voice of her fame is in tongues without number ; It laughs through the torrent, it lurks by the cave ; The brown matted sod, where the weary limbs slumber, Is sweet with the praise of the shrewd and the brave. In legends long hallowed, in jest and in story. The rude scattered hamlets their founders recall. And love follows close on the footprints of glory In broad-bosomed Berkshire, who beckons us all. OUNT EVERETT, or , " The Dome," as it is more popularly called, has become possessed of much the same affection ^nd pride of the people in its vicinity that Greylock has with its friends in the north part of the county, and all the inhabitants of the county glory in them both. While Grey- lock is more widely known throughout the country, peyhaps, in print, "the Dome'' and its contiguous territory was generally visited by admirers of Berkshire scenery some time before Greylock, probably because accommodations for summer visitors were sooner offered in the south- ern part of the county, and the picturesque views in the vicinity of the mountain are not equaled in any other section of it. Rough and primitive as the tion at Mr. Spurr's place in Mt. Washington, and furnish interesting reading. The Dome Ascend the Dome — Taconic's topmost height. And gaze upon the billowy land below. A Land of Hills I that bursts 'upon the sight Like the great deep, swol'n with convulsive throe. The hills, like waves, seem heaving to and fro. While gazing as from some tall vessel's mast. Thine eyes sweep o'er that circle's gorgeous show, Till, objects crowding on them thick and fast, They shrink before a scene so volumed and so vast. C. P. D. Dr. Timothy Dwight, in his "Travels in New Eng- land and New York," thus speaks of the mountain: "Taghconic, clad at this time in misty grandeur, partly embosomed and partly capped by clouds, par- ticularly ornaments the landscape. Its sides are not precipitous, nor its summit angular, but it is everywhere limited by lines which are flowing and graceful. This fact has always appeared to some to sensibly diminish its magnificence; still it is a highly sublime object." Rev. Dr. Edward Hitchcock, president of Amher.st college, ascended the mountain in 1845, and thus wrote of it and the little town in which it lies : "The height of Mount Everett (the Dome) is rather more than 2,600 feet. It is surprising how little vn-;\V {.OUTII, OVKlt Tni! IIOUSATONIC valley, from GROVNDS of JOIIK E. PAKSONS, LESOX A health to old Berkshire, To honor-crowned Berkshire, To broad-bosomed Berkshire, who beckons us all ! In camp or in court or as fortune may find us. Like children we turn to the purple-topped Dome ; We go where we must, but our hearts are behind us — Thy name is of childhood, thy breath is of home ! The long shady street in our dreams we remember. The smooth sloping orchard, the vine-mantled wall, — In dreams we return with the snows of December, To sound-hearted Berkshire, who waits for us all. Then here's to old Berkshire, To old, happy Berkshire, To sound-hearted Berkshire, who waits for us all ! Dora Read Goodale. Thou shalt look Upon the green and rolling forest tops, And down into the secrets of the glens, ' And streams that with their bordering thickets strive To hide their windings. Thou shalt gaze at once Here on white villages and tilth and herds. And swarming roads, and there on solitudes That only hear the torrent and the wind. And eagle's shriek. William Cullen Bryant. accommodations were, at first, when Milo Smith opened his hospitable farmhouse to city boarders, a hearty welcome and clean, wholesome quarters and food, with plenty of pure air, were sufficient to en- courage the annual hegira of hundreds of transient guests every summer to the town of Mount Washing- ton, and to inflame them, almost invariably, with an ambition to emulate the example of Longfellow's youth, who cHmbed as he cried "Excelsior! " Greylock and "the Dome " have been often called the "twin sentinels of the county," and their repre- sentation in the northern and southern parts of this work comes quite as a matter of course. Doubt- less thousands who have visited these mountains will appreciate their "counterfeit presentments," impossi- ble even, as it is, to here convey any idea of the sensa- tions connected with a close actual acquaintance with their charms. The visitors to "the Dome" comprise a multitude — many of them famous men and women — some of whom have left their names and records of their impressions in the visitors' books near the mountain. In one of them may be found the fol- lowing : These books may be seen now, upon applica- is known of this scenery in other parts of Massachu- setts. I doubt whether nine out of ten of our intelli- gent citizens beyond Berkshire county are not igno- rant of the existence of such a township within our limits. And even in the vicinity, very few have ever heard of the scenery of that place, which almost re- pays a lover of nature for a voyage across the Atlantic." For many years the mountain was called "the Peak," and it is thought that a colony of Swiss, loca- ted at its base, gave it that name. Catherine Sedg- wick refers to the mountain, in her story, " The Boy of Mount Righi." When President Hitchcock visited it he gave the name " Mount Everett," to the disgust of many. Dr. Orville Dewey made many protests, and Miss Sedgwick wrote the following lines thereupon: — Oh, call it not Mount Everett ! Forever 'tis the Dome Of the great temple God has reared In this our Berkshire home. And let the name the red man gave To all this mountain range So sacred be that other term Shall seem an utterance strange. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Taghconick — what that name imports - Has been but vainly guessed. As Urim let it reverence claim, Worn on that rugged breast. OUR ARTISTS AND OTHER HELPERS The "Picturesque" publica- tions have, in their inception and progress, been singularly fortunate in the esteem and interest which has been extended them by some of the foremost artists of the country. Prominent among such artists the management are pleased to have placed such a name as that of Kingsley, the painter-en- graver. He has constantly incited to high ideals in this line of work, and his suggestions have helped forward, so that the experiment is now made of issuing Picturesque Berkshire as a purely art work. It is well understood that the claim for this of an art work, will be disputed by some ; such a heterogeneous mass of pictures, it v/ill be said, cannot be considered an art collection of great value. But that depends upon the plane of effort upon which one stands. One may sigh for "more worlds to conquer," and, like Archimedes, for a place to put his lever, but he can only con- sole himself .; with the thought that "All things come to him who waits." One thing at a time must suffice the accomplishments of the " Picturesque" publica- lot of work, and in none of the "Picturesque" books has the varied life of the people and their institutions been more carefully pictured. Walter Cox and William L. Maclean of New York and Fred- erick Knab of Chicopee have con- tributed striking pen and ink work, and we are indebted to J. L. War- riner, Esq., of Pittsfield, H. F. Keith and Isaac Spurr of Mount Washington, H. S. Gopdale of New York, S. S. Wheeler and the Berkshire Mutual Insurance Company, also of Pittsfield, the Sedgwick Institute and Artist Costello of Great Barrington, and Prof. Dodd of Williamstown, for many originals, and to many others for single rare pictures. Credit is due to the Boston En- graving Company for the excellent results achieved with the now favorite half- tone process. The notion was long ago exploded tliat only New York concerns could do justice by such work, and the quality of the illustrations in tliis work will long be referred to with pride by every son of Berkshire. pLD-TIME LEXOX ON MAIS STItEET tions management, and it is believed to be a step forward that this book is issued without anything savoring of advertising in its pages. Mr. Kingsley has inspired to this end, and in so far he has been a friend and helper. Of the part he has taken in engraving for all these publications, what need be said ? '• It is Kingsley!" That is enough, except that it might also be said, in allusion to his magnificent frontispiece of Greylock, here is something which must ap- peal to every son of Berkshire. Never, it is believed, has this subject been better treated. Kingsley's Greylock must take its place among the best of the engraver's works. The artistic motive power, so to speak, of this work was in the hands of Clifton Johnson of Hadley and R. Lionel DeLisser of New York, in the order of the books. Mr. Johnson's work in other "Picturesque" publications has given him reputation, and his name is now becoming a familiar one in the world of letters, throuj^h his contributions to the leading magazines and some excellent bools of the day. The Southern Berk- shire country is to be con- gratulated that so excel- - lent an artist as Mr. De- Lisser has been enabled to picture its charms. He has hterally ransacked this beautiful section, and only lack of space pre- vents the use of many more pictures than are even now seen in his crowded Second Part. It is, however, a representa- tive and carefully selected THE OLU COLKT-IKUSE — NOW THE CHAIJI.ES SEDGWICK LIBKARY Without good printing, however, the book would be a failure. Good paper, fine engraving and interesting text would all be spoiled except for care in " the art preservative of all arts," and so tribute is rendered to the printers, the Clark W. Bryan Company of Springfield, Mass., who were constrained by all the ties of self-interest and kinship, as '•to the manor (Berkshire) born" to make this book, in mechanical execution, the crowning one of the series, as it ccrtainlv must be conceded to be. TUK EGGLESTOS MOXIMENT ON CLIFFWOOD STREET Henry Ward Beecher thus wrote, in his "Star Papers," of scenes in Lenox, some of which are pictured in these pages : — " If one spends July or Oc- tober in Lenox, they will hard- ly seek another home for the summer. The old church stands upon the highest point in the village, and if in summer one stands in the door, and gnzes upon the vast panorama he might, without half the Psalmist's devotion, prefer to stand in the door of the Lord's house, to a dwelhng in tent, tabernacle or mansion." PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE NEAU THE CL'KTIS HOTEL THE OLD CHURCH THE "PICTURESQUE" SERIES For the convenience of those who desire to know some- thing in detail about tlie other "Picturesque" books of Western Massachusetts, it may be said that " Hampshire," the first book issued, has Northampton, the " Meadow City," for its center of description. This is the seat of Smith col- lege, tor women, and the center of a great educational in- fluence. Within a radius of eight miles there are more institutions of learning than in any similar area in the United States. The scenic beauties of the place and its surround- ings have been commemorated in song and story by many famous writers, and the beauties of the Hampshire hills are considered by many fully equal to those in the other western counties. Here William Cullen Bryant, Charles Dudley Warner and J. G. Holland were born, Jenny Lind lived sev- eral summers, and Jonathan Edwards first thundered forth his anathemas against sin and iniquity. "Little Franklin," often so called, was represented in the sfecond book issued of the " Picturesque" series. The beau- a very interesting manner, and Holyoke, as a manu- facturing place, is made to show many hitherto hid- den artistic places. Elbridge Kingsley con- tributed a frontispiece to all these books, and Clif- ton Johnson had the gen- eral art management. It would seem that no private or public library in New England ought hereafter to be considered complete without the series. Information as to price, etc., will be found on the back of the title- page of this book, and all editions are limited. THE OLD ACADEMY THE BIRCHEN ROAD TO THE DEPOT A SCENE NEAR THE DEPOT tlful inland town of Greenfield is the shire seat of this county, and the hill towns about are rich in beauty. Indian history, too, gives the Deerfield valley a deep tone of romance and trag- edy, and the book is one of the most artistic of the series. " Picturesque Hampden," the last of the series issued before the Berkshire books' publication, is in two parts, one taking Springfield and the other Hol- yoke for centers of description, each with those towns on each side of the Connecticut river to which they are related. In- land city life is here depicted in AN INTERESTING DOCUMENT LENOX STATION Itwasnotlongafterthethrowingof theteainto Boston harbor, in 1774, that many patriotic towns and cities all over the country took measures to discourage or "boycott" all importations of Great Britain. Among these towns was Lenox, and its example in drafting and securing the signatures of its citizens generally to a pledge was what led to similar action elsewhere. The paper circulated in Lenox reads as follows and was called " The Lenox Covenant " Whereas, the Parliament of Great Britain have of late undertaken to give and grant away our money, without our knowledge or consent, and in order to compel us to a servile, submission to the above measures, have pro- cefded to block up the harbor of Boston; also have or are about to vacate the charter and repeal certain laws of this province, heretofore enacted by the General Court, and confirmed to us by the king and his predecessors : there- fore, as a means to obtain a speedy redress of the above grievances, we do solemnly and in good faith covenant with each other— PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 9 " jst, That we will jiot import, purchase, or consume, or suffer any person for, by or under us, to import, purchase, or consume in any manner whatever, any goods, wares, or manufactures which shall arrive in America from Great Britain, from and after the first day of October next, or such other time as shall be agreed upon by the American Con- gress ; nor any goods which shall be ordered from thence from and after this day, until our charter and constitutional rights shall be restored, or until it shall be determined by the major part of our brethren in this and the neighboiing colonies, that a non-impoita- tion or non-consumption agreement will not have a tendency to effect the desired end, or until if shall be apparent that a non-importation or non-consumption agreement will CUCRCII STKEEr, FKOJI WALKER not be entered into by the majoaty of this and the neighboring colonies, except such ar- ticles as the said General Congress of Noith Ameiica shall advise to import and consume. "2dly, We do further covenant and agree that we will observe the moststiict obedi- ence to all constitutional laws and authoiity, and will at all times exe;t ourselves to the " utmost for the discouragement of all licentiousness and the suppression of all disordeily mobs and liots. A VIEW (IN A XATLEAL FRAME) OVEK LENOX — SOUTHWEST FkOMrrlAZZA OF JESll' PLACE it, shall not adhere to the real intent and meaning thereof, he or they shall be treated by us with all the neglect they shall justly deserve, pai ticularly by omitting all commercial deiling with them. " 6thly, That if this or a similar covenant shall, after the first day of August next, be offered to any trader or shopkeeper, in this county, and he or they shall refuse to sign the same, for the space of forty-eight hours, that we will, from henceloith, purchase no article oi'Brilish manufacture or East India goods from him or them until such time as he or they shall sign this or a similar covenant. " Witness our hands, dated at Lenox, this 14th day of July, 1774. The above was signed by over ninety heads of families in Lenox. ^AW^' '^ „E. ''^J^ RECOLLECTIONS OF LENOX THE TOWN HALL To recollect Lenox, — " Lenox the Beautiful," as it has been called by an enthusiastic admirer, — means to rec- ollect the most popular, and at the same time most beautiful autumn resort in America. What nature has left undone to make the place attract- ive has been supplied by the hand of man, so that to-day the countless magnificent summer homes vie in wealth and beauty with those of New- port, Bar Harbor, and the other famous resorts. An English tourist, who had made a circuit of the world, once said of Lenox that it is the most beautiful spot on the face of the earth. This is a good deal to say, but thdse who live there and those who have passed seasons in its borders all agree that Lenox the "Beautiful" well fits it. CATHOLIC cnuRcn So long as my recollections of Lenox do not date back to 1769, when the the first church was established there, and when the name was taken proba- bly from Charles Lenox, the Duke of Richmond, I shall not attempt to go into the' early history of the town. Instead, it will be my province and pleasure to give my impressions and recollections extending back ten or more years. I shall never forget when in the early morning in the latter part of THE EPISCOPAL CHfRCll "jdly. We will exert oui selves, as far as within us lies, in promoting peace, love and unanimity among each other, and for that end we engage to avoid all unnecessary lawsuits whatever. "4thly, Asastiict and proper adherence to the non-importation and non-consumption agreement will if not seasonably provided against, involve us in many difficulties and inconveniences, we do promise and agree, that we will take the most prudent care for the -raising of sheep, and for the manu- facturing all such cloths as shall be most useful and necessary, and also for the raising of flax, and the manufactuiing of linen, further, that we will, by every prudent method, endeavor to guaid against all those inconveniences which might otherwise arise from the foregoing agreement. " 5thly, That if any person shall refuse to sign this or any similar covenant, or, after having signed VIEW ON MAIN STREET, WEST 10 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE m%Mt SIIATTL'CK— " BROOKIRKST'* STABLE ON THR JESLP TLAOk, LENOX THE FRELINGHUYSEN PLACE September I approached Lenox. There was a chill in the air, but coming from the lowlands it seemed so clear, pure and in- vigorating that to inhale it was like old wine. But the beauty of the scene was so impressive that I thought little of the air. The approach to the town is hardly attractive. Leaving the train on the Housatonic railroad, the tourist finds himself with only a small and decidedly unattract- ive wooden station in view. The town is two miles away, but the drive, especially in the early morning, is delightful. Through a thick forest, with great shade trees nea'rly arching over the road, past cornfields and acres of golden grain shin- ing in the mornings sun, by orchards with gnarled old apple trees, — not perhaps the oldest inhabitants can tell how old, — thickly hiing with late fruit; up the winding hill road all the, way, until one enters the main street of the toWa. And all during the ride, especially if it be for the first time, new beauties of landscape are continually unfolding to the view, until one- - wonders how so many varieties of view can be gathered to- gether in one section. Butun- til the tourist reaches the town he sees only na- ture — nature un- adorned. It is re- served for him until he reaches the town to see architectural and an artificial beauty. There the two are com- be so favored, rent some one of the cot- tages or mansions for the season, or better still for a term of years. During many seasons of the past the latter was a popular mode for life in the town, as many cottagers were absent in Europe, and some of the most at- tractive cottages were let with advantage to tenant and owner. I need scarcely speak of the past when I say that the well-regulated society person can no more neglect a visit to Lenox during some part of the season than he can omit to observe Lent or to speak French at dinner. So fashionable is the place that the society butterflies are watched as closely as the hands on the dial of a clock, and the people who are within the charmed circle know as surely, and can indicate as clearly,. when the fashionable people are to arrive. The surface of the town is delightfully diversified in the north and western sections by picturesque hills and valleys, and the Lenox mountain, on the border of Richmond, in the eastern part. Here is found the deep and wide gorge known as "the Gulf." Nature has indeed spread her favors with a lavish hand through the section, but none have received richer gifts than Lenox. It was formerly the shire town of the county, but the removal of the court-house to Pittsfield did not take with it many of the old and noted New England families. Much of the wealth, culture and refinement of the county remained there, and they still remain. Now, as in the olden time, the lover and student of nature goes to Lenox for his sum- mer and autumn pleasure. THE V,'. B. BACON PLACE ■^^.I^ EESIDENCE OF MORRIS K. JESUP Both my reader and myself are losers because my recollections do not extend back to the days "when Nathaniel Hawthorne, Dr. Channing, Charlotte Cushman, and other noted persons of the past frequented THE AN60N PHELPS STOKES PLACE — " TliEHOMESTEAD ' bined. Perched high on a broad and fer- tile plateau, and over- looking the beautiful hills and vales of Berkshire, stands Lenox, the pride antl glory of those who are fortunate enough to live within its bound- aries, and the Mecca of the thousands who go there each summer and fall because it is fashionable, and who in order to do so flock to the hotels, or if they RESIDENCE OF WM. D. SLOANE— "ELM COUliT ' PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE II .VMi:i: I'Lvi Till. Bl>lli'l 1 I. Till-: .rti'ii \v, lu i;i>: TlIK WuiiL^KV I'LAf'K- C01:SE11 OF THE IIAVEX liESIDEXCE the Berkshire hills. But next to remem- bering the celebrities is to remember those who remember them, and that it is my good fortune to be able to do. Nathaniel Hawthorne went to Lenox from Salem in 1850, and the three years which followed are designated as the "productive period" of his life. Cer- tainly he accomplished a vast deal in a literary way during the years he was at Lenox and the subsequent period of his life at Concord. Perhaps more was ac- complished during the time he lived among the hills than at any other period of his wonderful life. After having written the book that made him famous, '" The Scarlet Letter," he buried himself among the hills, and produced in rapid succession " The House of the Seven Gables," begun and finished while he lived in Lenox; '• The Blithedale Romance," drawn from experiences found elsewhere, but put into shape there, " The Wonder Book for Boys and Girls," "Tanglewood Tales," " The Snow Image," and his short " Life of Franklin Pierce." Only recently I saw a letter written by Hawthorne to his publisher in October, 1850, and it recalls my last visit to his quaint, homely little cottage. It seems by his letter that the famous novelist drew , inspiration from the hills when the leaves were turning, for he writes as follows : " I shan't have the new story ready by November, for I am never good for any- thing in the literary way until after the first autumn frost, which has somewhat such an effect on my imagination that it has on the foliage here about me, — mul- tiplying and brightening its hues ; though they are likely to be sober and shabby enough after all." Before it was burned down it was my pleasure to visit the little red cottage, perched high on the hills, and near the famous Stockbridge Bowl, in which Haw- thorne lived during this fruitful, if not eventful period of his life. All that could be said for the dwelling was that it was picturesque. It certainly was not com- fortable, and the successful novelist of to-day, his son Julian, for instance, would not live there for a day. The few rooms were close and inconveniently arranged, and the only charm came from the view of the surrounding hills. That was perhaps enough to compensate for the discomforts the family must have found in the cramped and narrow quar- ters. Yet, Julian tells me the family was happy there, and that his father worked through the day, and sometimes far into the night. There are those still in Lenox who remember distinctly the famous author. To one of these I once went for information regarding his life while in the Berkshire hills. I was told that he lived almost entirely by himself, that the people of the vicinity saw very little of him. Occasionally he went to Lenox to buy provisions, or for something he needed, as he did to Pittsfield, but the villagers saw little if anything of him socially. He wore his hair long, and, in the words of my informant, '' always appeared to be think- ing." To think was considered almost a crime in those early days of American literature, and it is needless to say thai among the people of the vicinity Haw- thorne was anything but popular. This anecdote of Hawthorne was told to me, and is now printed for the first w \ l;|i's l;i:,s|i.i,.\ri-; - " i. \K\\( Ml>.s 1 . 11 i;M.--^ ri. ' IMI'sE iiK THE IMIKIJ'S STukEs TL 'rilE (iix.UiJlAN 1-1. \rE — '■ Y(.iKl N ■"■J ■ ■' i'w ■ ■"-^^-;-■V^ / EKTRAKCE TO THE MCKIM COTTAGE 12 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE I'OLSOM PLACE — " SUNNY RIDUE" LOWER ENTRANCE TO THE WOOLSBY PLACE time. He was far from ricli in the goods of the world when he lived in the little red cottage, and so long as he could not afford to keep a carriage he walked when he had to go to Lenox. But he was a good deal of a pedes- trian, his health was never better than during the lime he lived in the hills, and he in no way objected to a long tramp in the bracing autumn air. One morning when he was reluming from Lenox, laden with bundles and baskets filled with purchases of househbld goods, he met a farmer who asked him to ride. " Ride,'" he said, look- ing squarely in the farmer's eye, "ride, why, only the rich man rides. Did you ever hear of Adam riding? It is a new fashion, and I belong to the older generation." Then remembering his natural courtesy, which he extend- ed to every one, he added, " I thank you, but I love to walk, and I love your beautiful Berkshire hills." But now the little red cottage, which was in later years visited by so many people, has been destroyed, and all MRS. DE P. caret's PLACE —" GUSTY GABLES " and the lovers of the beautiful. To watch the foliage during the summer months, as green as the sea, take upon itself the richer 'and more beautiful coloring, is always a delight. To go to Lenox to see the leaves turn has grown to be am expression widely known among the people who fre- quent the fashionable resorts, and the expression means a vast deal to the lover of nature and nature's ways. It is in the glorious autumn days when the coaching parades come, when the finest turnouts of the sec- tion are brought out, and when the fashion and beauty of Lenox is best displayed. The tub parade never ceases to be a novelty, and its never- THR LIVINGSTON PLACE — " OSCEOL \ LODGE," that is left of Haw- thorne in the Berk- shire hills, are the memories of him, and tliey are fas^t becoming so dim that it will take only a very few years to entirely obliterate them. It is not wonder- ful that the visitors to Lenpx are enthu- siastic over the beau- tiful hills. They have a charm pe- culiarly their own. taking as they do the pleasure-seekers from the larger seaside and northern resorts when the summer season closes. It is doubtful if any other northern resort could hold out sufficient induce- ments to draw the great number of tourists who go there every autumn. Once there they stay. The beauty of the place is enchanting. When the visitor goes there in the summer he cannot and will not depart until he sees the leaves turn. This is the delight of the hills. The great stately maples, the hickories and oaks, all take upon themselves different color- ings; the maples the brightest scarlets and yellows, the hickories dull browns and bronzes, and the oaks the richest maroons and sober tints. Looking off over the broad sweep of valley below the pl.iteau upon which the town rests, the scene during the autumn days is a most wonderful and pictur- esque one. Skilled and noted painter^ have gone to the hills from time immemorial to transfer to their canvases the rich and beautiful colorings of the foliage, and some of them have succeeded, but the task has been a difficult one, and they have goae away little satisfied with their work. Perhaps no- where in the world is the autumn landscape coloring so rich and beautiful as in the vicinity of Lenox, or, to put it more broadly, throughout the Housatonic valley and the Berkshire hills. The panorama seems all the time changing, — always offering special pleasures and novelties to the lovers of nature, RESIDENCE iJb EGMO.NT SCUEKMERHoKN THE LENOX CLUB HOUSE ending variety gives to it a continual charm. I shall liever for- get the first tub parade I witnessed in Lenox. It was in 1883. 1 1 seems as though the later ones were not so brilliant, and that AUCHUUTY — ''THE DORMERS '' PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 13 THE H.VIECLAY PLACK— "IJONME BIJ VE ' HOME Outside fall the snowflakes lightly ; Through the night loud raves • the storm ; In my room the fire glows brightly, And 'tis cozy, silent, warm. Musing sit I on the settle By tlie fire-light's cheerful blaze. Listening to the busy kettle Humming long forgotten lays. Heine. THE r.^STURia GATE THE LITTLE SCHOOLGIRL OF 1820 '»WWW«P»^WII«( SCHEUSrEKHOUX K^TATE ENTRANCE they did not so abound in variety and beauty. It was more of a novelty then in this country, there having been few if any held, and all who took part seemed to vie one with another for beauty and artistic effect. Then, as now, there were all sorts of equipages in the parade; the drag, the dogcart, the tallyho, the stately landau — all figured in the great procession — and all were decorated, not only with the rich and varied flora of the' section, but with banks and clusters of blossoms from the private and public green-houses of Lenox and the surrounding towns. Added to this was the turning and turned foliage of the " thousand hiljs," crimson, maroon, yellow, brown and gold. The perfectly groomed horses, the handsome women in gay and becoming costumes, and the elegant and well- dressed men, all formed a most attraciive part of the picture, and one which one who has seen it is not likely to soon forget. The tub parade seems to herald the close of the society season, for after it many of the cottagers and visitors go away But even though the season closes, Lenox has its charm. Many of the stately old mansions open their doors during the winter season, and when they are opened out of season the visitor finds all the hospitality and comfort of the southern or colonial home. But to its friends, — to those who appreciate it, — Lenox is always hospita]3le, and its guests are always welcome. Albert Hardy. Grandmamma was ten years old when she went to school at the Lenox Academy. Schoolmasters were very severe in those days ; they never allowed a scholar to be spoiled because of sparing the rod. But about this time a new schoolmaster came who did not believe in corporal punishment. He had many novel ways of punishing the offender. One morning, very soon after he had entered upon his duties, he intro- duced "Ichabod" to the scholars. " Ichabod" was a round stick of wood, two feet long ; it was dressed in a grotesque manner and had a foolscap on its head. Any scholar who broke a rule of the school, or did anything to offend the teacher, would have to take " Ichabod " and go to the " Court-house," (Lenox was the county seat at that time), and make a bow, or a courtesy, to the judges and the squires. For a number of days the sight of "Ichabod," standing in the corner, was enough to keep every scholar right up to the standard. Any BL'TTEKNUT COTTAGE — MliS. boy or girl would far rather take a good whipping than go with " Ichabod" to the court-house. One afternoon while the teacher stood in the middle of the room, with a pin between his thumb and finger, waiting for the scholars to become quiet enough to hear the sound of its drop- ping on the floor, grandmamma broke the silence by laughing aloud. How could she help it when the boy who sat nearest to " Ichabod," stuck a piece of broken pipe in the mouth of the grotesque figure while the stern man's back was turned. " Eliza ! " thundered out the deep voice of the schoolmaster, " lake ' Icha- bod ' and go to the court-house." Poor little Eliza! There was no demurring from the demands of those who were in THE OLD HILL NEAR wood's FOKD authority in grandmamma's time. Obedience was inculcated in children's education from their earliest years. Eliza took "Ichabod" in her arms; not a scholar dared even to give her a look of sympathy, although she was a great favorite, not only with her young companions, but with her elders as well, because of her bright, cheery disposition. Eliza was a pretty child, and as she stood in the door of the court room and made her courtesy to the honorable body, they looked very stern and wise. They had heard of the new schoolmaster's mode of discipline and were bound to stand by him and uphold his form of government. Grandmamma turned and H PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE went out as soon as sbe could, feeling that she was disgraced for ever- more in the eyes of those wise men, but one of the judges, with his quill^pen stuck behind his ear, came out and followed the little girl down the steps and asked her what her offense had been. " I laughed out loud, sir," little Eliza replied, hanging down her head so the curls almost hid " Ichabod." The judge patted her gently on her head, and IN THE SHADE AT STEADMAN'S BROOK Edwards in the church at Stock- bridge, was invited to the house of a brother divine in an adjoining town. This divine was very fond of "the cup that cheers but does not inebri- ate." Patriotism audi divinity went hand in hand and tea had been ban- ished from the table of these good par. sons in the county. No tea was men- tioned in the invi- tation to take " supper." On arriving Dr. West was confounded .by the steaming urn on the table, with its' tempting odor. But the persuasion of his brother divine and the circumstances induced for once a compromise. The doors having" been carefully locked and the curtains drawn, they proceeded to the enjoyment of the tabooed beverage. Scarcely had the first sip crossed their lips when a loud knock at the door upset their pleasure and the urn as well, which, in his attempt to conceal, the sleeve of the host caught ancj turned its torrid contents CliOSS-ROADS — LENOXDALE AND LEE said, kindly : " Well, child, don't do such a thing as that again in the schoolroom, but laugh as long and as loud as you want to out- side of it. The Bible tells us that ' A merry heart doeth good like a medicine.' " Grandmamma's burden of disgrace was made so much lighter by these words and the merry twinkle in the judge's eye, that she felt she had not committed an unpardonable sin after all. She marched back to school with a much livelier step, and a sort of triumphal look on her face, that indicated to her companions that her punishment had not been greater than she could bear. The Lenox academy is just the same outwardly as it was in those earlier days, I am told. So it could be used for an illustra- tion to this article, and an old-fashioned little schoolgirl pictured to go with the incident, which is strictly true. The old court-house is still there and I believe is used for town business. Susan Teall Perry. AN UNLUCKY TEA PARTY When the " Tea Question " was at its height in the hands of our government, Rev. Stephen West, who succeeded Rev. Jonathan •n ■•- '" ,. -«I*V ' :l''i"^^^m^^Mi EUINS OF THE HAWTHOKNE HOUSE into the lap of his guest. Close-fitting small clothes and stockings proved a poor defense, and for a few moments the words and demeanor of the victim were anything but clerical. Yet Rev. Stephen West was reverenced so much for his great piety, that it is related that at the time of' Shays' rebellion, his was the only house not molested. His power over the children was so strong in its influence for gdod that a little boy- who had to go at nightfall through the woods after his father's cow, and who was a very timid boy, kept up his courage by constantly repeating : " Old Dr. West ! Old Dr. West ! " sure that nothing would harm him while he possessed such a protection. ' ' NIGHT COLDEN-KOD How beautiful is night I A dewy freshness fills the silent air ; No mist obscures, nor cloud, nor speck, nor stain, Breaks the serene of heaven ; In full orbed glory yonder moon divine Rolls through the dark blue depths ; Beneath her steady ray The desert circle spreads, Like the round ocean, girdled with the sky; How beautiful is night ! Southey. THE r.l!IIK;E AT STEADMAN S BEOOK PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 15 BEADY FOE THE TUB ;is<^^?&»isfexs'--. THE OLD COURT-HOUSE of her regard for Mr. Charles Sedgwick, for a long time clerk of the courts, a man greatly respected and loved by all the people of Lenox and the county. It is now generally known as " Sedgwick Hall." Mrs. Scher- merhorn placed the title in five trustees, for such uses by the town as are indicated by the name given it. She died soon after the purchase, and her son, Mr. t'. Augustus Schermerhorn, and her daughter, Mrs. Col. Auchmuty, put it in complete repair. Later, the old court room, being deemed unsafe for large assemblies, Mr. Schermer- horn built an addition for that purpose known as the "Assembly Room." The pres- ervation of the building for many years yet to come has been thus secured and in a manner highly appreciated by the town. This old The old court-house in Lenox is an object of especial interest and is one of the very few buildings of the olden time which have been preserved to the present day. Erected in 1S15-16, of brick, two stories in height, at a cost of $26,000, of which the town of Lenox contributed $3,500, it is of a style of architecture simple and beau- tiful. This cost does not seem a large sum in this day, especially in com- parison with the more costly marble court-house in Pittsfield, but relatively it is quite as much, and in the eyes of many the building is not less attractive. It took the place of a stillmore simple wooden structure known then as the " Old Court-house," built in 1788, when the sessions lIEXKir WARD BEECHER EOLU o'clock tea of the courts were removed from Great Barrington to Lenox, which became thereafter the shire town. The courts were held in this building from the time of its erection till the re- moval of the county seat to Pittsfield in 1868. Soon after it was vacated by the courts and county officers, it was purchased of the county by Mrs. A. C. Schermerhorn, apublic- spirited lady of New York, who resided in an elegant summer home in Lenox. She gave to it the name of "The Charles Sedgwick Library and Reading Room," in token court-house will, while it remains, be associated with the early history of the Berkshire bar and with a manner of social life long since passed away. The conditions under which the early life of that bar became so charming have disappeared, and the like will never return. Lenox was then a small, quiet village filled with a delight- ful social life of its own, of people of culture and distinction. During all that time the town was without railroad, telegraph, or telephone. Lawyers, in court time, gathered there for the week and sometimes longer, and while there, formed with the people of Lenox a social circle unusually attract- ive and brilliant, spending their leisure hours out of court in entertainments and social intercourse where wit and repartee of rare quality enlivened the passing hours. AFTER THE TLB PARADE ..^r^^V '&'■^'"^^^■ ^-^ EVENING OS LAUREL LAKE NEAR THE^SIETHODIST CHUUrU The bar of the county, in those days, took high rank in that of the commonwealth for the learning and ability of its members, and this building has been the theatre of many forensic contests of great interest, taken part in not only by lawyers of Berk- shire, but also by those of the old county of Hampshire and of the adjoining county of Columbia in the state of New York. The records of these contests and the tradi- tions of their unwritten his- tory would form material for rare and entertaining story. i6 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Contemporaries who yet survive give most interesting descriptions of the distinguished actors of those times, and of striking characters among the officials and other habitues of the courts when they were held here. The sheriff, arrayed in blue coat with gilt buttons and buEf waistcoat, with cockade in hat and drawn sword in hand, going in and out by the side of the judge — the crier in wig, and himself as time-worn as the walls of the building, opening and closing the daily sittings of the court with as murli formality and solemnity as if the portals of/ the temple of justice itself opened and .V LOOKOUT ON LAUKEL LAKK AT THE BOAT LASDISG, LAUUEL LAKE the present spacious public house so favorably known among summer visitors. Here, when the work for the day was over, the lawyers passed their evenings in a freedom of social intercourse and in discussions and idebates, enlivened by wit and repartee nof often equaled for brilliancy or spirit. At nine o'clock Mr. Curtis always appeared in their midst with something warm, and if there had been any lagging of interest it soon revived and seldom failed to rise higher than ever. Marvelous were the stories which Mr. Curtis shut at his command — and the venerable doctor of jJivinity, the lofty rhetoric of whose prayers invoking, at the beginning of each session, the guidance and blessing of the god of justice upon all engaged in its administration, was like the music of a deep-toned organ — these and other unique and worthy personages, who contributed so miuch to the respect and awe which the courts of justice in olden time inspired — ON WOOD S POND NEAE THE LENOXDALE SMITHY broughtin every night, with' his creature com- forts always pre- pared with un- surpassed skill. It was not his fault if any one went away ignorant of the minutest detail of current or uncurrent gossip pertain- ing to any phase of Berkshire life. He was often prodded with interrogatories and applauded for the wisdom of his answers. He had a genius for his call- ing, carried a big heart and a warm I.EXOXDALE CENTEU THE HOTEL AT LENOXDALE all have passed away with their generation. It would be well if their portraits adorned the walls, of this old court-house, reminding all who go in and out of^its doors of the days when justice was there meted out without the fear or favor of man. Outside of the court-house, but always associated with it in the memory of those times, was the home of the lawyers at the house of Ochran Curtis, on the opposite side of the street. The host was the father of the popular proprietor of DAM A>'P BRIDGE, LEKQ^DAI^S hand. Since his death there has been no one like him. The Rev. Dr. Shepard, whose prayers were so promi- nent a feature at the. opening of every session of court, was a grand personality. He commanded the most affluent and gorgeous rhetoric in all his utterances. It was once said of him by an irreverent lawyer that " Dr. Shepard never used a word of less than ten syllables in all his prayers." Be that as it may, it was his own fault if any one was no better for listening PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ; A HAILSTORM IN BERK- SHIRE 17 LEXOX CEMETF.ltY *' I will not rise to trouble any one if they will let me sleep here. 1 i my head and lyolc out on this glorious scene." — Fanny Kembli Butter. 'ill ask only to be permitted, once in a while, to raise to them, for all in their turn, the judge who was to preside, the lawyers who were to conduct the causes, the parties litigant, the witnesses called upon to testify and the jurors who Were to wfeigh the evidence were, each in their proper order, separately and impressively presented in fervent petition for special guidance in language that no one ever mocked. He was ever ^ATHA^•IEL HAWTHOIISE a welcome guest at the Curtis house where, without loss of dignity, he made himself one with the lawyers in what- ever entertained or delighted at their celebrated evening sessions, contribut- ing his full share of wit and humor to tlie good-cheer of those occasions. Mr. Charles Sedg- wick, clerk of courts, whose name the building now bears, was the charm of court life at Lenox. He was a gentleman of the highest culture and attainments, qualified to adorn any public station or social position, of a personality most attractive and a character most lovable. To lawyers and laymen alike, his demeanor was so winning that every one deemed him a devoted friend. His office in the court-house was the resort of whoever had a leisure hour for social amenities or pleasant conference, and no one ever turned from his door who had not been gladdened by his smile and cheered by a kind word. This building, though it has ceased to be a court-house, will still carry with it the pleasantest memories so long as it shall be called " Sedgwick Hall." H. L. Dawes. Among the diversified expe- riences of a varied life, nothing is more vivid than the recollec- tion of a hailstorm that 1 wit- nessed some years ago in the town of Lenox. I was at that time a humble member of the useful and popular tribe of •' summer boarders." I had gone in search of a country retreat where I could, for some weeks, enjoy the delights of seclusion and repose, "far from the mad- ding crowd's ignoble strife." By a lucky chance I discovered my paradise in a farmhouse, where, contrary to the fate of some sojourners, the fare and hospi- tality were all tliat my imagina- tion had conjured up. I soon found that this farmer was not of the New Jersey type, pictured in the funny papers, who reduce a beefsteak to tenderness by the use of a mallet and chopping block. In fact, beefsteak was not often on the table ; but the sweet-faced farmer's wife served me with viands which forestalled any regret that the meat markets were at a distance. This gentle woman had the gift of imparting to every dish she prepared a delicious flavor, which might have been the envy or the despair of a Parisian chef. One dish in particular, frequently on the table, was a revelation of the sweeter glories of the culinary art. From a memo- FAKNT KKSIBLE BCTLER HAIVTHOKXES LITTLE RED HOUSE randum which I per- suaded her to give me, and which is now lost, I found that it was compounded of salt codfish, eggs, and cream, with some other simple ingredients that I have now forgotten. If you partook of that )-ou knew what was meant by the phrase "table luxury." When, the next win- ter, I gave a supper to a few friends at But to me there is a pe- culiar, quiet charm in these broad meadows and gentle eminences. They are better than mountains, because they do not stamp and stereotype themselves into the brain, and thus grow wearisome with the same strong impres- sion repeated day after day. A few summer weeks among mountains, a lifetime among green meadows and placid slopes with outlines forever new, because continually fad- ing out of memory — such would be my sober choice. Hawthorne. CIIAKLOTTE CUSHMAN UN 1{0\1> FJ:0M LENOX TO STOCKBIJIDGE Delmonico's, I asked, showing my memoran- dum, if I could have that dish served among others, and was told that it should be done, per- fectly, though it was rather below the art of their cuisine. I fondly fancied that I should give my friends a surprise. But on tasting it, none of us could eat any. I concealed my bitter disap. i8 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A FINE ELM NEAR THE pointment ; but I reflected that it is the divine gift of cooking, and not the ma- terials of which a dish is composed, that conduces to digestion or commends it to the palate. How many women there are, unknown to fame, who in in this, as in other arts, surpass the proudest achievements of men. I arrived at this farm- house at the close of a long day and a tiresome journey; and that night I sank to slumber between the whitest of sheets, feel- ing that I could willingly resign the joys of New York. I wandered for days amid the most magnifi- cent ; scenery. I found such calm restfulness among the hills, and felt an influx of so much new life and vigor as I looked over the varied landscape, or listened to the music of the mountain streams, that I asked myself if it MISS SAKGEUT'S fXem BUILDINGS IN LENOX of a window, engaged in writing. Several partly finished manuscripts were lying on the table in scattered heaps. They were the fruits of the desultory occupation with which I beguiled my idle hours, — sketches and studies to be afterwards polished into forms fit for the editor's eye. Noticing that the bright sunshine had become obscured, I turned my eyes and saw that a cloud of exceeding blackness was rising' above the summit of the hill. With the passing thought that a shower of possibly unusual violence was soon to burst, I gave my attention again to my work. In a few moments I heard a slight patter on the windows. I looked again, and saw a spectacle that must be forever inlpressed on my memory. A solid wall of hailstones was rushing towards the house, as though the heavens had discharged a million Galling guns at once, and sent against me an irresistible volley. I say a " solid wall," because the storm did not ap- proach in detached masses or irregular shapes, but rose in its perpendicular terror with a smooth and even front, and compact as the serried ranks of a A BIT Of LAUREL LAKE should ever be my lot to behold anything more impressive and sublime. But a new wonder was to come. The house at which I had been for some weeks a guest was situated near the top of a hill. One afternoon, early in August, I was seated at my table in front " MRS. GAINES 'KITTY AND ME THE LATE COL. AUCHMUTY'S WAR HORSE m^^M^^M" READY FOR THANKSGIVING PICTURESQUE BERKS trt RE 19 military phalanx. For some seconds I was lost in wonder, before I apprehended the portending danger. I sprang up, and had just time to draw back the table from the window when the embattled storm struck the house. The instantaneous destruction was sublime. Every pane of glass 6n that side was broken. At the first stroke they were nearly all demolished ; and then the few that remained were heard to break, like the scattering shots at the conclusion of a battle. In perhaps A GLIXPSE OF THE "BOWL," OR LAKE MA'HKEENAC ' STOCKBRIDGE BOWL The Stockbridge Bowl ! Hast ever seen How sweetly pure and bright Its foot of stone and rim of green Attract the traveler's sight ? — High set among the breezy hills. Where spotless marble glows, It takes the tribute of the rills, Distilled from mountain snows. Lydia Sigourney. BERKSHIRE HOMES " Where run bright rills, and stand high rocks. Where health and beauty comes, And peace and happiness abides. Rest Berkshire Hills and Homes.- The Hoosac winds its tortuous course. The Housatonic sweeps Through fields of living loveliness. As on its course it keeps." Clark W. Bryan. LAKI! MAHKEENAC, FROM TIIK STOKES FAIIM while the tempest raged, and I was the while pelted with hailstones of the size of walnuts. Outside of the house the havoc was terrible. That patient farmer, when the cyclone had passed, went over his fields only to see that the labor of the entire season went for naught. All his growing crops were gone. Corn, potatoes, beans, and a flourishing vegetable garden, were all destroyed. Trqes were stripped of their foliage, and in the orchard the half-grown apples lay thickly strewn beneath the branches whereon they grew. In perhaps five minutes all was over ; the sun came out again, to shine upon a ruin more coinplete than im- • "' ' '~ 1 agination could depict, or language fitly describe. A few other farms suffered, but none so much as this. This fated spot bore the chief fury of the storm. But this farmer and his wife looked .<• upon their losses without a complaint or murmur. In the calmness of their forti- tude, in the courage with which they met adversity, I saw in this patient man and this brave woman what ,vir- tues are bred in the hills of Berkshire. Can there be a disaster which is not attended with a touch of humor? In this locality the luxury of ice was then unknown in summer. But in two or three house- holds there were busy hands to make the most of this calamity. After the tempest had ceased, hailstones were in the unusual delicacy of LAKE MAHKEENAC, FROM LESOX ROAD, BY MOONLIGHT gathered, and youth and maiden found comfort ice cream. It has been said that Nature repairs all her damages with every returning spring. But here was one exception. I visited the same spot the next summer, and I saw that the scars of the previous summer's devastation had notall been healed. Shade trees and apple trees still bore the sad marks of the destruction that had sWept over them. They lifted against the sky bare and barren branches and sprays to A GLIMPSE Ol'" THE HOLSATOMC twenty seconds the assault was over, and the carnage complete. The shots poured into the room thick and fast. Such was the force of the blast that drove them that the hailstones flew laterally across the roolm, and struck the opposite wall like bullets. Meantime, my manuscript had been scattered all over the floor ; and I cannot forget the ridiculous situation in which I was caught as I attempted to save them,— flying about the room to gather the imperiled papers, VIEW OF THE VALLEY FKUM DK. FIELD'S GEOINDS SlUUIibKlifOE 20 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE which the foli- age had not been restored. Even the rcsebuslies mourned a par- tial decay. But my friends at the farmhouse were as cheerful and hopeful as though no ad- versity had test- ed their courage. Or rather should I say that their courage was in- vincible against disaster ? We have been ac- ON THE IIIUIIWAY TO STOCKBltlDG I". customed to say that man is powerless beforethe forces of Nature, when it goes forth in its fury. But may we not say that man is capable of displaying forces sublimer still? Let a surtimer tem- pest do its worst; but against all the havoc it makes, I weigh out the constancy, faithfulness, the inexhaustible mental and moral resources, which rise superior to every assault, and enable the human hand and brain to defy all that Nature can do. J. M. s. B. THE RIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY Lenox, Stockbrtdge and Great Barrington One who finds himself at Lenox for the first time, altliough he come with the idea that the good old town has perhaps been ad- THE STOCKBKIDGE ISN M^AK IHE TUWK vertised for more than she really can lay claim to, is willing to admit, after a day or two of driving or walking about, that the " half hasn't been told." One cannot tell which charms him most in Lenox — her natural beauty and wealth of changing scenery, or the hand of art and architecture in " cottage life," as it is called in this the " Inland Newport." Of course We speak of it in the sense that has made Lenox famous — a summer resort. From every eminence, and these are legion, one gets a wealth of view and sweep of loveliness in hill, mountain and valley that is as changing as a kaleidoscope ; and herein lie? the charm of Lenox , life. Whether it is northward away off to Greylock, southward, with the Monument mountain a few miles away or farther on the THE FOUNTAIN An Anecdote of Dr. Shei^herd — Rev. Dr. Shepherd, who preached many years in Lenox, was a puritan of the strictest sort, but was a very witty man. He had a habit of keeping his eyes open when he prayed. Not far from Lenox is a village that has always been noted for its frequent change of ministers. The Lenox divine had been, called on so many different times to be one of a council to dismiss and settle parsons there, that once after coming home from settling a new shepherd over the fastidious flock he said to his man as he drove into the yard ; " Don't take the harness off from the horse yet, David. I've just settled a man down there in the village and I'm expecting to be sent for every moment to dis- . miss him.'' Dome, to the south portal of the Taconics east to the mountain tops, west to the range of forest and hill, it is a charm, and varied changeful scene. One might give pages of the beauty of Lenox; its life, its social gayety, ils quiet home life of the cottager or the hotel guest in summer. It isn't a striking village is Lenox. It nestles at the foot ot the liill as one drives into it from the north, embowered among the trees, with roof and spire peeping up through the foliage each side of the broad street. The old church is on the hill. Dr. Parkhurst went from here to minister to and agitate New York. Here in the old tower ANUTHEK ViEW ON THE MAIN TlIOBOUGHFAltE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE it THE UECTOKY 1)N MAIN STUICKT, STOCKBUIDGE historic fame, gave the old church this clock, when she was a dashing young woman years ago, and was among the earliest to see the beauty of Lenox, when a sum- mer's outing and a country residence was a thing thought of by but few. The church- yard close by has many noble names chiseled on its marble. Here in Lenox Charles Sum- ner came, and in the vil- lage made his suit and did his wooing as he and his bride walked up and down the quiet streets. Not the streets of to-day, to be sure ; and yet the village in many ways has not changed much. The old church is here ; the old court-house build- ing is here, but its walls echo no more to plea of lawyer, and judges no longer sit in judg- ment and equity, for Lenox ceased to be a county seat more than twenty years ago. All the old " county offi- cials " have gone ; their homes are owned now by " city folks." THE CHIMES The " Woolsey Place," away back in the woods and from which one gets a charming view down south, is among the earliest of the summer homes. It was the Aspinwall place, the summer home of the steam- ship men of other days, and Mrs. Woolsey inherited it from her father. STOCKBIUDGE 0\SINO Curtis' hotel is heri.' ; the same as of old, ex- cepting that it has been added to and en- larged. Landlord Cur- tis, the senior, has a rich fund of anecdote and reminiscence of the other and early days of the summer business that would fill a book. Across the way on the vil- lage green is a monu- ment telling the hero- ism of one of Lenox's sons in the Revo- lution. Last year a grandson had his re- mains brought here ASSEMBLV ROOM IX THE CASISO ^ SI i Hi- MOSUMEST TO JONATHAN 1 I'W A i: IJ^ THE OLD MISSION UoLSE 22 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE entire length by the roadside. Hon. David W. Bishop, the railroad magnate, with his " Interlaken " villa. George Westinghouse, the electrical inven- tor, the foundation of whose fortune was laid with the air brake. His marble mansion is on a beautiful eminence overlooking Laurel lake. He lives in the town of Lee 5 but they call it Lenox. The Anson Phelps Stokes mansion, " Bonnie Brae," overlooking "Lake Mahkeenac.'' Mr. Beckwith's nearly completed mansion, with Mr. Cook's just planned, will each cost up into the mil- lions, before they are erected and furnished. The city cousin adds much to the wealth of Lenox in many ways. Here he and his family come in June and stay till fall. They come to enjoy the drives, the scenery, the quietude and the social AIs ULJJ WILLOW CTRUS W. FIELD from far away and the monument was dedi- cated with military pageantry; the regulars came to do honor to the bones of the revo- lutionary hero and his wife. The little old town haU has served Lenox for a century nearly; a modest, square building, unpreten-. tious and unassuming, and all efforts to change it have failed. Its quaintness and antiquity please the town. There is too much to tell of Lenox to crowd it into a simple chapter; to particu- lajize would take too much time and space. The " cottage " feature of Lenox life is grow- electricity are found in Lenox ; barring, possibly, a few private gas or electric light plants. Kero- sene is used for domestic and public lighting in all the village. The old academy has been spared in the ENTRANCE TO THE CEMETERY IN THE CEMETERY life in dinners, receptions, dancing parties, literary entertainments, archery, tennis, coaching parties, tub parades in autumn, etc. And yet they are in- terested in Lenox for 'herself and themselves. Recently a plan for macadamizing the streets- was promoted. The town appropriated liberally, and private subscriptions among the "cottagers," as they call themselves, m^de up the balance, some )f lo.coo. It must beremembered that non-residents, these same cottagers, pay a good share of the town's taxes besides. Sewers make the village healthy ; a village improvement society is sustained; the water supply is from the mountain side miles away. The library is well maintained ; a bank does a fine business. And yet the streets are lighted at night by lamps, and neither gas nor CATHRRINE SEDGWICK march of progress. It is of old-time architec- ture ; square, two stories, with a little belfry and weather-beaten. Here, in the days agone, were educated many men who have made prominent places for themselves. ing. Some one told Mr. Curtis some years ago (and I don't know but it was Fanny Kemble) that the time would come when all the hardhack pastures which were then monopolizing the various slopes, would command fabulous prices, and would be the abode of wealth and the sites of mansions. Whoever made the prophecy was a true prophet; and Mr. Curtis has lived to see it fulfilled. Think of land selling in a country village at the rate of $9,000 an acre! And yet that has been done in Lenox, time and again. One of these desirable summer cousins, as they are called, has brought another. We speak of Lenox, to be sure ; but it must be remembered that the town of Stockbridge comes almost to the very doors of the hotel, but it is all "Lenox." Here have come such prominent names as Hon. John E. Par- sons, the lawyer-philanthropist; the Havens, W. D, Sloane, a son-in-law of Mr. Vanderbilt, and his brother who has just pur- chased the General Rathbone property and formerly the Henry Ward Beecher homestead on the Lee road, where that famous divine wrote his celebrated " Star Papers " years ago, when he was in the prime of his manhood and fame. Here is the sum- mer home of Charles Lanier, the banker, the Frelinghuysens' old colonial mansion where ex-President Arthur came after his term of office, to seek rest and absolute quiet in the home of his Secretary of State. Hon. Richard Goodman, a pioneer cottager. General Barlow, Henri Braem, Joseph Burden, Mrs. Haggerty whose cottage ex-Secretary Whitney occupied, where Mrs. Cleveland was en- tertained and in whose honor, a few years ago, was given one of the grandest receptions of its kind that Berk- shire ever saw. The Morgan cottage (a mansion costing away up into the millions and just finished), The Schermerhorn place hid in the trees and walled in. Colonel Auchmuty's home on one of the sunniest slopes and grandest of views in all the town on the Pittsfield road. Mr. Bradford, with a mile of domain and terraced its IN MEMORY OF MRS. THEODORE SEDGWICK THE FINE ROAD PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 23 The handsome Trinity Episcopal church stands in the triangle opposite the Frelinghuysen mansion, and the rectory is just beyond. It is ,a handsome edifice, of granite, rough hewn, and its portals are wide open every day in sum- mer. Its memorial porch ^nd chancel are handsome. It was largely planned* and greatly assisted in the building by the late Colonel Auchmuty. The second largest piece of mosaic pavement in the country is found in Trinity church ; its columns are fashioned after some of the oldest temples in Europe. Other churches are the old Congregational on the hill, the Methodist and the Catholic. All are well sustained. At Trinity, in summer, gather congregations whose wealth may be counted by millions, and few young men minister to more wealthy or refined congregations than the rector of Trinity in summer. Speaking of the late Colonel Auchmuty, Lenox has much to be proud of, in his quiet, unostenta- tious life here. His establishment of the famous trade schools in New Yorkishis best monument. His old war horse, "Mrs. Gaines," was an animal which the villagers pointed out with pride many years. She was be- lieved, at the time of her death, this year (1893), to have been the last remaining horse that was with General McClellan's Army of the Potomac. The social life of Lenox is also manifest in the Lenox Club, an association of gentlemen whose summer homes are here, or who are guests at the hotel, for not all Lenox ESS'o.'Siasa&s'ii. TIN ItOASTEK OLD FIREPLACE UTENSILS here. Once a year the club give a reception to the ladies, and the occasion is one of interest, and looked forward to as among the real attrac- tions of the year. The reception at the club is usually the closing leading social event of the season. Lenox has much of history ; but we are not dealing with perfunctory historical matters in this liesurely walk about Berkshire. Yet, Lenox doesn't lay claim to so much of his- tory as Stockbridge, Williamstown and some other Berkshire towns ; although old in point of settlement and prominent as the county seat for a cen- tury. The fame of Lenox lies and has re- mained for many years in her natural beauty and the attractions which have brought to her borders, year by year, wealth, aristo- cratic society and all that makes up an " In- land Newport," as it is called. The cottagers come in June in goodly numbers, either to their own homes, to leased cot- tages or the hotel, for the season. In July, they go to Newport, Bar Harbor or, possibly, journey early to Europe, mayhap for one season, but SPINNING WHEEL lives in its own house. Not an elaborate clubhouse ; but a two- story wooden building, with wide lawns and ample grounds, a tennis court, bowling alley and wide, cool piazzas tempting one to rest and quiet. One would hardly call it " clubhouse " in that sense ; for there is nothing stiff or formal in it. It is the gathering place of the gen- tlemen who find, in summer, their resting place at Lenox, and meet each other socially here. Many things for the betterment of Lenox, in its public affairs, have been created and promoted usually to stay only a few weeks and return in September, when social gayety and the round of pleasure begins. This it is that has made Lenox famous in all New England, and she is " ex- clusive " to a certain extent. Man- sions costing a quarter of a million, with handsome grounds to corre- spond, dot the hillsides and the slopes. The Lenox of old, in its farms and middle classes, is de- parting. The city man is taking up his domain at a large price. They are homes. A gem in the Berk- shires is Lenox, the queen of re- sorts, — quiet, peaceful, isolated and charming. The railway station is two miles away; the cottagers wouldn't have it nearer if they could. It's a steady up-hill from the station to the village, and the stagecoaches to and from the village are one of the features of Lenox. Electric cars between the village and the station would be an innovation that Lenox life would hardly want to experience. Royalty has been here every season in the per- son of embassadors froih nearly aU the prominent European nations. Stockbridge One needs more than a chapter to tell of the beauties and the glory of Stock- bridge. She nestles as peacefully in the valley as a child at ease in his mother's • arms. The high hills each side, the Monument mountain, so full of legend and story, as the sentinel towards the south, the range of the Taconics dividing the town from West Stockbridge on the west ; all these are set off to great advan- SAP PAILS AND YOKE SNOWSnOES MONUMENT TO THE STOCKBRIDGE INDIANS KITCHEN UTENSILS tage by the Housatonic river flowing so peacefully along in its windings through meadow and Vale and at last tumbling itself by a sort of cascade and water . power at the southern boundary of the town at Glendale and Housa- tonic. Seen at the best in the summer or springtime is Stockbridge. She invites rest of the most delightful character, the moment one leaves the pretty railway station of stoned and brick, the well-kept grounds and landscape gardening greet the eye as you leave the train, showingthat some organized effoi-t has brought this about. The Laurel Hill Association, the pioneer village improvement association of the country, formed many years ago, through the efforts of one public-spirited lady, Mrs. Goodrich, has lived all these years, quietly doing its work, as seen in better sidewalks, street lights, hiding of un- sightly bits of scenery about the village and giv- ing the whole village bounds an air of neatness and improvement, and inciting everybody to her borders. Stockbridge, like many of the other Berk- shire towns, is rich in her old families ; fami- lies who have in some instances all passed away, and the first name is no more; but yet living in many things that have made for the best kind of popularity of the place. Here was the Sedgwick family of whom YA-EK ntAMB 24 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Catherine, who later lived in Lenox, and by her pen made Berkshire famous, was of that good old stock that has representatives here yet. The Dvvights, a good family, row nearly all gone. Here were the Fields, both the elder D. D., who so many years ministered here in the latter part of 17C0, and whose remains repose in the village cemetery. Here are also his sons, David Dudlej', Dr. Henry M., Cyrus W., — the latter known from his connection with laying the Atlantic cable and now deceased — the Fields and Stockbridge are practically in- separable. They turn to her now more fondly than ever as life nears a close. There are many more of the families who gave Stockbridge its early promi- nence. Judges half a score; con- gressmen, divines, authors, artists, and in fact, all the walks of life have come from Stockbridge, as a native town, in goodly numbers. Her main street is a beautiful place. The great elms, planted here some of them almost before there was any vil- THE SEDGWICK PLACE lage, have found the soil indigenous to their growth. A huge willow, said to be the largest in the country, grew to prodi- gious proportion from a riding whip planted sometime in 1756, by. a passing' traveler. Broad streets, houses with ample grounds in front, and well kept, are on every side. Just a quiet, cozy home life. Monuments, one to the soldiers of the town and the other to commemorate the memory of Jonathan Edwards, that emi- nent divine, are in the little triangles at the street corners. Fountains, drinking — tubs for man and beast are private donations. The hotel is also an ideal country inn. It was the "Red Lion Tavern" and was erect- ed in 1764. The old sign is preserved yet, and here are the old- fashioned Franklin stoves, old-style tin lantern on the porch, antique furniture all about ; and a collec- tion of ceramics, (for Mrs. Plumb is a con- noisseur in that direc- tion) which makes one almost envious to pos- sess some of the rare display. Hosts of dis- STOGKBRIOGE TOWN HALL JONATHAN EDWAIiDS A DKINKISG FOrNTAIN THE METHODIST CHURCH ^f^ *- '* - ^^^^f^-'M tiCOlsT. PAUL'S CHURCH tinguished guests have been sheltered beneath its hospitable roof. It has recently been enlarged, but the original red lion is preserved. Here is the old Jonathan Edwards home, with the same clapboards upon it that were hewn out in 1756, and nailed on with hard-wrought nails. Tliis is also known as Edwards Hall. .,.r PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Stockbridge history is also interesting. Here were the Stockbridge In- dians, among whom came John Sargent to labor, and who was instrumen- tal in the conversion of many souls. This was in 1736. Sargent's re- mains repose in the village cemetery hard by the resting place of the dusky people whose ameliora- tion and salvation were Ills study and work. Then 25 -y---^ THE OLD STOCKBRIDGE DEPOT came Stephen West, famous by his writings years ago. Then came Edwards in 1751-S; and here his famous "Freedom of the Will" was written. His desk is preserved as an heirloom and cannot be purchased. The Indian burial ground is on the Great Barrington road, on a knoll overlooking the meadow, and thence on to the river. A monument of native stone marks the spot where the Indians sleep their last sleep. The site of the Mission church now has a chime of bells donated by Hon. David Dudley Field, said to be one of the ablest legal lights in the world, and whose form even now is seen in Stockbridge in summer, although over eighty winters have passed over his head. He has just given the town a handsome piece of land for a public park. The Mission house yet stands, th-; oldest building in the town. The chimes are rung out every sunset, THE HEIGHTS RESIDENCE OF DAVID DUDLET FIELD at Mr. Field's ex- pense, and are a memorial to his grandchildren. His daughter. Lady Musgrave, died some years ago. Summer homes are beautiful in architecture and in- viting to the city cousin. The sum- mer homes of such gentlemen as David Dudley Field, Mr. Blakeman, Mr. Southmayd, Hon. Joseph Choate, the RESIDENCE OF BIRHSKYE BLAKKMAX eminent lawyer; Tuckermans, Prof. Joy, and others, a long list of them. Many prominent men have sought Stockbridge for a few weeks' rest, while in the other years such men as Web- ster, Marcy, VanBuren, Garfield and others have been at Stock- bridge. Dean Stanley came in ■1887, and preached in the little St. Paul's church. He was Mr. Jt'ield's guest and was charmed with Stockbridge iii autumn. Across from the hotel is the handsome St. Paul's church of granite, a memorial to his wife by Charles E. Butler, the emi- nent New York lawyer, who, with his partner, ' Mr. South- mayd, had summer homes here for many years. Some beautiful gifts are in the church. It is open every day for prayer or \'isitation. The public library, Jackson library, was a gift to the town, and the hall above was also presented to Stockbridge by the late John Z. Goodrich. Her academy, known in the past as "Williams Academy," is now the high school, and is buried almost in the edge of the wood. \ lEW FROM MR. CIIOATE S FLOWER GARDEN A SCMMEK HOUSE beyond which is Laurel hill. The old Congregational church is farther along to the west, a substantial structure, built many years ago. Its tall, graceful spire is one of the first things seen among the trees as the traveler by train enters the town. The cemetery is across the broad street. The town-house, the church, the Mission chimes, are all on the same triangular piece of land. Yet, all of Stockbridge is not in the village, for the northern boundary of the town takes in a portion of what is known as Lenox village. Here are the mansions of Messrs. Sloane, Lanier, Bishop and others. Curtisville is a port" . -^f Stockbridge, and on the edge of its lake, formerly Stockbridge Bowl, now known as La,. , Mahkeenac, are the elegant summer homes of Mr. Beckwith, who has bought hundreds of acres of land in that 26 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE vicinity to add to his grounds, his lawns and his fields. H. H. Cook's handsome place on the opposite shore of .the lake is also in Stockbridge. Anson Phelps Stokes' " Bonnie Brae,"— for- merly the home of Sam Ward of New York, will be one of the largest country seats of the kind in the country when it is completed a year or so hence. On the shore of Mahkeenac was the little " Red House '' wherein Hawthorne wrote the " House of tl\e Seven Gables," and whose desk is now in the Pittsfield museum at the Atheneum. The " Lit- tle Red House " was sacredly guarded by its owner, and few visitors saw it ; but some care- lessness a few years ago resulted in its total de- struction by fire. At Curtis vi lie, Hon. John E. Parsons of New iWILLOW, AND MONt'MEKl MOUMAIJ^ IN 1HSTA^CE iV ELEGANT ROADWAY IN STOCKBUIDOE York and Lenox has recently bought the old hotel, some adjacent buildings and the water privilege of the lake, so that no manufactur- ing should disturb, and here he has erected "St. Helen's Home," a memorial to his daughter. Miss Helen, who died of fever in Florida, a year or so ago. - Here come every fortnight in summer a contingent of fifty poor children from New York, under the auspices of the Fresh Air Fund. So " being dead, slie yet speaketh," may well be said of THE HULL PLACE 'lage green, is not only a weird scene, but is one of the annual features of summer life in Stock- bridge. Bear mountain is to the southeast, and here has lived for- many years Mr. Lev^ Beebe, who from his mountain perch has made himself felt the country over through his weather fore- casts. His domain is 1,300 acres on the moun- tain top. Charming views greet the eye from every side in Stockbridge. They are KRSIDENCE OF MRS. lASIGII tlie lovely young woman whom " St. Helen's Home '' com- memorates, through the kindly benefaction of her father. The chapter on Stockbridge widens ; abridgment of a town so lovely and so closely allied with the literary history of the county. and also with its material prosperity, is' difficult. There are three lakes in her borders — Averic, Mahkeqnac andGlendale. Icy Glen is a charming retreat. So completely isolated and shaded in the woods is it, that ice is found therein all the year round, for . the sunlight does not disturb it. Ex- cursions through the glen by torchlight, the young people dressed in fantastic costumes, and on their re- turn a dance on the vil- LIGHT AND SHADE ON THE HODSATONIC too numerous to repeat, for the guidebooks are full of them. It is a changing panorama wherever one walks, climbs, rides or drives. The drives, too, are legion, southward over Monument mountain, so full of legend and story. The tale of the Indian maiden and her lover sitting all the day and then throwing themselves from the jagged, rug- ged cliffs is told again and again with renewed zest and relish. North to Lenox or Curtis ville; over the mountains to the west along the. range of high hills in that direction ; eastward to Lee, or farther on to Tyringham, or over tlie well-kept but steeper highways to Bear mountain; or down the region known as " Muddy Brook," and' thence AN ICNTHANfVE TO PRIVATE GUOUMtS to Great Barrington. The river road is also charming with its bits of scenery at every turn. Stockbridge presents a wealth of handsome things to tempt the eye and to make the stay in the village for a summer, or a permanent residence, all that one can desire.-i-.One of Berk- shire's handsomest towns is '' Old Stockbridge," as it is yet called by the elder people. RESIDK>CK OP JOHKPH WINDERMERE — RESIDENCE OF REV. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 27 A GLIMPSE OF THE HOVSATOXIC Great Barrington In whichever direction one enters the lovely — yea, charming — village ot Great Barrington, he is pleased and delighted with what the eye rests upon. Pen fails to de- scribe in a single chapter the loveliness of the scene ; whether in the time of spring- ing buds and forest singing of the birds; whether in sum- mer's heat you find rest and comfort along its shady streets ; whether in glorious autumn, when the early frosts have just tinged the mountain-side for- es,ts witli the glories of the variety of tint ; or in the frosts of a clear winter's day when the hill- sides are covered with snow and the air is filled with it. Historically speaking, Great Barrington (so nam- ed from Lord Bar- rington, I believt) lays claim to many features which make her story of the past eventful. Its history has been THE OLD GRISTMILL, STOCKBBIDGE way to the sea. The well-kept farmhouses are an attraction, just on the village outskirts. Great Barrington is the market town for a large tract of terri- tory east and west ; it has a railway station and the merchants and tradesmen do a thriving business with outlying farmers. It is not OX THE ROAD TO ICY GLEX told time and again, and ac- curately and interestingly so, by Charles J. Taylor, the treasurer of the local savings bank, a loyal son of the town and who has made his work a " labor of love." Here was the first armed resistance to King George III, and the judge of the King's Bench met opposi- tion in the yeomanry of the ICY GLEN A VIEW IN GLEXDALE day and lime, who set him on horseback with his face to the rear and sent him out of the town. That was before the revolution. Here Shays' rebellion found some comfort and finally collapsed near Great Barrington. Here was the first triumph of liberty in slavery times when, at the Berkshire court (then Great Barring- ton was the shire town) a runaway slave was freed by Theodore V VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE AT GLEXDALE Sedgwick's claim that she could r.ot be held under the Massachusetts Bill of Rights. Great Barrington has a scope of Berkshire scenery peculiarly its own, and unlike any other. It is more than a panorama ; It is a kaleidoscope in its wealth .of variety and attract- iveness at every turn. A' chapter on views and drives and walks with a new point of interest could be written. How snugly the village proper is nestled in its quie- tude in the valley along the river, the lovely Housatonic, flowing so peacefully and gently along in its winding E.M» UL" THE STREET, GLEXDALE THE SOHOOLHOUSE AT GLEXDALE 28 a manufacturing place to any great extent, although here were the first rubber mills and the Russells were and have been the woolen manufacturers, father and sons, for many a year. Housatonic village, on the north- ern borders of the town, is the busy manufacturing village of Great Harrington and a delight- ful village at the west side of Monument mountain. Here, at Great Harrington village, is the location of the Housatonic Agri- cultural society — said to be the best managed, the most liber- ally patronized and withal the best " cattle show " organization in all New England, if not in all the country. It is the great holiday occasion of the region for miles around. Here is seen life in all the phases peculiar to PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ON llOAD TO WKST STOCKBltlDOE cattle show days. Your artibt has caught 'some of the charac- teristic scenes of a country cat- tle show; 20,000 people assem- bled to renew old acquaintances, to witness t^e contests of horse and man in sports, to discuss the vegetables, cattle, talk politics, exchange gossip, etc. A motley group of exhibits — ah equally motley gathering of people. Monumentmountain is in the northern border of thetovm and is claimed alike by Great Har- rington and Stockbridge. A lovely road leads over a portion of the mountain side and its huge cliffs can be easily seen from the roadway. Here is the legendary part of Great Har- rington. Octave Henzel, Hryant and others have told the story, — it need not be detailed. The picture of the Indian maiden throwing herself from the cliff, because by the law of her tribe slie could not wed her cousin lover, was for years the vig- nette oE the old bills oE the Ma- haiwie bank, in other days, be- fore it was nati on aliz- ed. - Every one in Berkshire knows, or thinks he does, the tradiiion of Monument mountain; it nted not be repeated here. Views are innumerable, from whatever point one climbs. What a sweep one ,s;ets Irom the west of the village towards Berkshire Heights. It is a study and a lasting memory; once drunk in, never forgotten. What a view one gets from June OLLN AVLMl, JAKED UEID, Jl{. OLD "dobbin's*' FKIKND A VISTA ON IliE WILLOW EOAD OS ROAD TO LENOX FKOM STOCKEHIDGE mountain! It is the other side of the panoramic wealth of beauty. How quietly the village nestles at your feet in the valley! It is wonderfully social, more so than most villages. Call on a business man, say at five in the afternoon, and it is fortunate if you do not find him "out to tea" with Jiis wife and friends, the guest of some neighbor. This indicates the good feeling and fellowship of the town and village. Here is tlie handsome church, the Congregational, the gift of Mrs. Hopkins- Searles, (^e was then Mrs. Mark Hopkins). It is a handsome church of grey dolomite ; its great organ is the pride of the village, because it is the handsomest and largest in the county, and indeed takes a high place among those of the country. Its echo organ in the opposite gallery require^ over two miles of electric wires to put its harmony into response chords with its larger and con- trolling fellow. The church parsonage and grounds are the pride of the village; PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 29 the building is open every day and the visitor can call and examine it at will. Handsome, rich furnishings ; not a particle of veneer or sham about it. Its material was In part taken from her quarries across the river. ' The Searles mansion of grey dolomite is a striking figure of Great Barrington attractiveness. It is a castle indeed. It was begun when Mrs. Hopkins was a widow; it was the site of her girlhood home when she was Miss Kellogg, and she named it " Kellogg Terrace." Its archi- tect, Mr. Searles, was afterward and now its owner; he married Mrs. Hopkins, inherited part of her millions and their union is said to be a love affair, despite the difference of ages ; — she was older than he. I need not attempt to describe the terrace ; visitors are not admitted, for its high stone walls are securely guarded at the portals. One of the haiidsomest of views in all Berkshire is obtained down the valley, with the June mountain at the left. Its wealthy original owner has long since ceased to dwell on its beauties. The high fountain is in front. The lawn is a real mead, and its present possessor, Mr. Searles, seldom or ever comes here. It may be a school of art or music some day; that is the question the villagers often ask themselves. Here in this village Mark Hopkins was a country hardware clerk, and he and his bride years ago (afterwards Mrs. Searles) went to California together to K*A*?5i|fe IIAWi'HoltN BUSH AND tLM c.irve out their mark on ihe scro'l of fame and fortune, and did it in the higher niches. Here Bryant the poet lived, and his residence was across the broad street from the Searles place. He was town clerk of Great Barrington, and the record of his own marriage, as his duties required him to make, is still shown in the town clerl<'s office. His house is yet preserved. The Berkshire Inn, a quaint and charming piece of hotel architecture, made somehow just to fit the spot and the surroundings, stands also on the same plot of ground which Bryant owned. It is a prominent summer resort, and Mr. Ticknor has made a reputation for it and for himself. The Collins sanitarium and other places attract and accommodate the summer tourist. Here Bryant wrote his " Green River," the little stream coming into town btlow the village, after leaving its LOOKING WEST FROM GLEX AVKXT3E, STOCKBIUDGE head waters at Austerhtz over in New York state, and coming down through Egremont to Great Barrington. Many of Bryant's loftiest productions, to many minds, were inspired by and at the time of his residence in the " Grand Old Hills of Berkshire." While Bryant's memory lives, Great Barrington will share in a good degree this honor as his residence, though not his birthplace. Long before the locomotive whistle woke the echoes of the valley, the summer guests came. Their names are legion and among them many promi- nent. Garfield wrote verses in Great Barrington ; the first Chinese servant in Berkshire came years ago with the Chinese consul. Major Gibbons came A IIAYMAKKU'S DAY SCENE IN THE £l'Cl'UBS some years ago and built himself a summer home here. He was a southerner; was crossed in love, his affianced marrying a rival, I be- lieve, on the day of his to-be wedding. He retired frorn publicity, and female society or servant seldom or never graced his house in this village. His property is no w owned by Colonel Brown of the New York A'ews, who has made a lovely place of his belongings ; and, as he says, he prizes Great Barrington over any other place he finds. So divines, poets, authors and scholars have sung ; it would be superfluous to- reiterate what they have so beautifully told in their rapture of delight. Other summer residents are here. There was the David Leavitt place, south of the village and just under the shadow of June moun- tain. Its great barn was for yea^s the wonder of the town; his art gallery was immense and his summer home was that of princely wealth, where hospitality unbounded was dispensed. It is now owned by a Mr. Crowe of New York. The residences of the Teff Is, William E. and son, merchant princes of New York, are below the village at "Jumbo Tent." Mr. Frank Pope, who has made himself felt in the electrical world, owns the oldest house in the village, built in 1757, and he has enlarged it materially ; but leaves the old inscription on marble in the brick work. William Stanley, Jr., the electrical inventor, is a native of the town. Judge Dewey of the superior court lived here many years, and loves Great Barrington even yet above all other places. All her sons love Great Barrington; many of them are doing much to 30 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE improve her as a sum- mer resort and to add to her reputation. Mount Peter is a delightful elevation just in the village and the place to which easy and daily walks are made. Eldon's cave in the "Tom Ball" region, dividing Great Barrington from Al- ford, is in easy dis- tance of the village and is a curiosity. Belcher's cave is al- most in the village ; it has its legend or history to the effect that in the revolution- ary times it was re- sorted to by one Bel- cher, a noted counter- feiter. Near here lived Crosby, the hermit, who went to the asylum BIRD'S-EIE VIEW Ot GKEAT BAltHIiGTO-N spirit of its former self remains, although the age of progress gives the village all the moder.n improvements in railway, telephone, electric lights, steam, etc. The village is a gem; well kept and lidy even on the back streets or in the locality across the river known as " Brooklyn," be- cause it is annexed to the village proper. Its town-hall is a beauty — an ideal — with court room, town offices, registry pf deeds ofifice, library and sole public hall, all under one roof. The old cannon cap- tured from the British ship " Macedonia" in the war of 1812, stands on the green in front of the town-house. It is too old for use and has been spiked. The handsome soldiers' monument near the hall is a tribute of .Great Barrington to her soldier dead. Yes, Great Barrington is an ideal village ; it is an ideal town in its natural beauty and in its lavisli gifts, in attractiveness from the hand of .Nature. Her churches are well sustained ; a hopeful sign of every. community. Her schools are well kept and liberally maintained. Her village heeds are well supplied by an enterprising population. Her streets are regular and handsome, with few or no fences. Her highways are also well looked after. Her water supply is bountiful and pure. Tiie moral and literary tone of her people is good and all A GLIMPSE TOWAKD THE HILLS • a year or so ago. A love affair crossed his path and eccentricity followed. Tht auction sale of his effects furnished a sketch for your artist. East Rock and Moijnt Bryant are nearly 1,500 feet above sea level; Berkshire Heights 980 feet above tide-water and 264 feet above the village, invite the tourist to a wealth of view in all directions. To the Heights the waters of Green river are pumped up from the west to flow down to the village again by gravity, as a supply for the villagers. WAYSIDE HOMES that makes for her betterment and to make it a safer and better place for the; people, their sons and daughters to dwell in; all that makes for a cordial invitation and pleasant sojourn to the visitor, are maintained and cared for. . We might linger in Great Barrington for days, with new things to feast on and to dwell on constantly. The artist paints the picture as seen; it needs to be tasted and feasted upon long to be appreciated. , - o. If you are English, and hesitate about expressing too much pleasure among these scenes, you may recall that Lord Coleridge said that " England has nothing more pleasingly picturesque than Berkshire." SUMMER RAIN t'-^v^~- A BIT FKOJI THE PASTUItE either for domestic or other purposes. In lime the whole slope will be the site of cottages — the dream and hope of the original projectors. Then you may go six miles east over Three Mile hill to Lake Buel ; a charming resort for camping, picnicing, fishing or rowing. Two groves invite to rest and a day or longer of ease and comfort. It is the lake resort of Great Barrington and the vicinity. Ice Gulf, where in a chasm ice is found all the year, is also an attraction only a little way from the village. There are drives in every direction. The life of Great Barrington is peculiarly New England. The A GLANCE PKOM 'I'llE IllLLMUE .A.slant thfe driven rain incessant streams ; The thirsty meadows sigh as with delight ; The wind-blown poplar shifts from green to white, .^nd whit^ to green, as aimlessly as dreams. Down lea^js the torrent from the gurgUng spout And plunges, foam-white in the dash. The roof Resound^ with hasty drops, like hoof on hoof Of elfin horsemen — a wild, cantering rout ! The windows stream and blur the world witli mist, Gray Night comes creeping early from the nills, Pallid and tearful like a child unkissed, That broods upon its little wrongs and ills. /ames Buckham. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 31 solid bronze, cast in Municli and cost j!i5,ooo. From the lialWay, immediately after entering, is the entrance to the grand atrium. There are three of these atria, and they are the central feature of the house. The grand atrium is of large size, and its angular lines are broken on either side by rows of ON THK MAIN , STREET. GliEAT BAUIUKGTUN THE HOPKINS- SEARLES MANSION Berkshire county enjoys the distinction of having within its borders one of the handsomest and most costly private houses that stands upon the American continent, and the town of Great Barrington will be for many years famous as the location of the " Hopkins mansion." Some years ago Mrs. Mark Hopkins conceived the idea of erecting the magnificent structure pictured in these pages, and in 1884 the work began. The Hop- kins place contains about 150 acres and lies a little south of the centre of the town. The mansion stands near the north end of the place, and is some distance from the road. Itfaces the north and sits on the side of a hill, which slopes to the south and stretches away to the beau- tiful meadows below. Several architects have been employed upon the mansion, at different times, and the house is not even yet completed. The building has a frontage to the north of 180 feet and is about loo feet deep. Its massive walls -are broken by seven beautiful towers and numerous gables. The material is native blue dolomite from a quarry across the Housatonic river, which, by the way, is one of the features of the beautiful land- A VIEW ON srAIN STREET atfC? THE BUSINESS CESTIIE massive marble pillars which support the roof. These pillars represent all the marbles of the world, no two being alike. In the hall-way or pas- sage leading to the atrium, the wood- work is all of the finest English oak and the ceilings and upper wall are of stucco work, pure white and of exquisite design. Right here it may be stated that throughout this entire mansion there is not a particle of coloring, excepting that which may be in carpets, hangings or furniture. The walls and ceilings are all of oak and stucco, and not a drop of paint or oil has been used in the finish of the wood. It is polished by hand alone and the finish is magnificent. To the right of this grand atrium, in one of the towers, is the library, and on the opposite side, in another tower, is a reception room. The library has the same finish of oak and stucco, and is lighted by an ingenious ar- rangement of windows over the THE MILLEK HOUSE, GBEAT BAKKJNGTOS scape here. It is somewhat difficult to designate the style oC architecture of the building, but it may be said to be a com- bination in which the old French style predominates. At the north the house has four stories, and at the south there are two more, made by the slope of the hill. On the south side is a high and massive terrace which is paved with marble, the rail being surmounted with the same stone. Under this terrace is a large winter conservatory in which are kept the plants that beautify the grounds in summer. The appearance of this terrace gives the impression of a fortress, and it is one of the most striking features of the building. The main entrance to the mansion is through a grand porch on the north side. The doors for this entrance are historical THE BEKKSUIliE COUKIEU OFFICE SOLDIl^RS' MONUMENT shelves. The walls of the reception room are paneled in oak, these round rooms being very tasteful and handsome. Coming back into the grand atrium, one has his attention drawn to the brilliant light that comes through a massive arched doorway at the opposite end. Looking toward this, the main source of light for this royal chamber, the idea of light and distance obtained is marvelous, and a look between the massive marble columns and a second double row of oak columns, to the music room entrance, is like a glimpse of oriental magnificence. The floors of the atrium are of quartered oak, the walls are wainscoted high with oak, and above the beautiful marble columns rises the arched roof. The surrounding rooms are for domestic purposes and are 32 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A BUSY DAT OK MAIN STREET is not marred by a player's seat, but the organist is located on a conical-shaped booth, depressed somewhat and place4 some; distance from the organ. The room is lighted by several hundred incandescent' lights concealed in the ceiling, and these are controlled by the organist, the lights being raised or lowered in ac- cordance with the character of the music. Above and apart from the music room is a beautifully finished chapel for the Use of the family. Leaving the mu- sic room and com- ing back through the grand atrium the collius house in perfect harmony with the rest of the house. The second row of columns just mentioned are all o£ a rare oak of tan color, and are richly carved. The columns lead up to the grand entrance to the music room, and the oak, like that used in the grand archway, is of the same kind as that used in the music room. England and Scotland were hunted over to find enough of this rare wood, and its cost was ^35,000. Passing on under the arch, one enters the music room, in an extension on the north side. Pages might be written about this music room, and it would not then be adequately described. The room is oblong, the organ occupying one end, while the other end is circular. The ceiling is arched and very high, with a view to obtaining the best acoustic effects. At one side over the arched entrance from the atrium are two balco- nies, which curve and sweep in irregular lines, giving a peculiarly pleasing fe-ti'^jSS.^5- ,« '-•*!ffiii£i-T-' ON RAILROAD STREET effect. The side walls are wainscoted high up, and above the oak is again seen the marvelous stucco work wrought in emblematic musical designs. About the room, in niches, are magnificent carved oaken seats, so arranged as to be retired, and hung with beautiful tapes- tries. But the crowning glory of this room is the organ. The case is a beau- tiful musical temple, made of carefully selected oak, and is a work of art in itself, that is probably not excelled, in this country. The wood used in thig case cost jSi2,ooo, and a large number of men worked two years in carving the into the hall-way, the grand stair case is sure to be noticed as an ob- ject of interest. It is made of oak, but the rail, which was made in France, is of hammered steel of unique design. There are also two elevators in the house, making easier access to the upper floors. All the rooms in the house are of different designs and each is a study in itself. There is a Moorish room, Turkish room, Roman and Grecian rooms, and in each the stucco, the carving, the windows, and everything are in keeping with the style of architecture represented. Many of the passages are wainscoted to the ceilings, and others only part way. All through the house are scattered the most magnificent bronzes, statues and other works of art. The kitchen has a tile floor and a tile wainscoting and is as nearly complete in its way as any room in the house. The main idea of the building is a great musical palace, all else being subservient to this. The music room is, therefore, the central feature, and the magnificent atrium is designed simply as a preparatory chamber for the sublimity of the musical temple beyond. From the south windows of the house the views are as fine as any in southern Berkshire. They take in the beautiful Berkshire meadows, the valley of the lower Housatonic and the range of East and June mountains. It is the intention of the owner to make of the 150 acres a grand park or garden, and a few years will probably see this plan carried out. Two beautiful and artistic bridges will be thrown across the river, the grounds will be traversed by carefully con- structed roads, and the whole will become a veritable garden of Eden. In such an article as this the place can be but briefly described, but the time will probably come when the public will be permitted a nearer view of the structure upon which, when finished, some ^2,000,000 will have been expended. The first indictment — regularly found by the grand jury — that resulted in atrial in Berk- shire county, was one against Landlord Root of Great Barrington, it being charged that he "did wittingly and wilfully suffer and permit singing, fiddling and dancing in his dwelling- house, there being there a tavern or public house." It is recorded that he pleaded guilty and was fined ten shillings and costs. , THE BERKSHIRE INN ■M THE RAILWAT STATION elaborate designs. The organ case and the balconies are built into the room, and the effect is of an entire whole, not a place broken by protruding line of balcony and organ case. The lines are so softened that the harmony is perfect and the effect is marvelously delicate and beautiful. The organ, which cost ^75,000, is of the best metal, and one of the best instruments ever niade. The front of it AUCTION SALE^OE HERMIT CROSBY'S EFFECTS PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE GOOD STOCKBRIDGE INDIANS 33 [From the Boston Post Boy, September 3, 1739] In a letter from a friend in the country dated August 21, 1739, we have the following passages : I have lately been to see my friends at Housatonnoc, (now called Stockbridge) and was well pleased to find the Indians so well improved, particularly in husbandry, having good fields of Indian corn, and beans, and other sorts of grain, as oats, etc. They have good fence about their field, made with their own hands. Some of them live in houses built after the English man- ner and Capt. Concopot has built a barn that is well shingled, etc. They have several horses among them, and some cows, hogs, etc. They are many of them grown industrious in business and diligent; I observed several young women sewing clolh,making shirts, etc. But I was in special gratify'd to find them improv'd in learning; several of them have made good proficiency, can read in their Testaments and Bibles, and some of them can write a good hand; the children are in gen- eral as mannerly as you find in any country town. There are about twenty families of Indians that live there ; and now the great and general court have taken such effectual care, and put them in possession of the land, they have designed for them (which hitherto they have been hindered from possessing). I make no doubtbut they will greatly ■■ uld jialedoxia' BRIDGE STRKKT, LOOKING EAST A THANKSGIVING INCIDENT OF STOCKBRIDGE THE TOWX HALL The day before Thanksgiving of the year 1756, a stagecoach stopped in front of a quaint house, still standing (although modernized) in the village of Stockbridge. The travelers who got out were President Burr of Princeton college, and Esther Edwards, his wife, whose father was Rev. Jonathan Edwards, the parson of the church at that time. They had journeyed with their two little children from Princeton, New Jersey. As the young wife went into the open door of the home, her mother met her, and with a show of mater- nal pride in her face the daughter laid the little bundle of flannel she had been carrying, into the mother's arms. " This is my boy," she said. The grandmother peeped into the small breathing place left open in the warm out- BliU'OE STREET CORNER OF MAIN AND ELM STUKET:? side wrappings and saw the face of her grandson, Aaron Burr. The young mother was beautiful. A writer in the New York Gazette said of her, after mentioning the marriage of the president of the college : " They came to town Saturday evening, the 29th ult.,the president and his beautiful young bride. I think her a per- son of great beauty, though I must say I think her too young (being only twenty-one years of age) MONUMENTS IS THE CEMETERY increase in number ; for several Indians have been with them, and manifested a desire to tarry with them, could they have land to work upon. There is a church gathered and fourteen Indian communicants; the number of the baptiz'd is near sixty. While I was at Stockbridge, the Rev. Mr. Sargeant (the minister there) was married to Mrs. Abigail Williams, a virtuous and agreeable young gentlewoman, daughter of Ephraim Williams, Esq. There were ninety Indians present at the marriage, who behaved with great gravity while the prayers were being made, yea, dur- ing the whole ceremony, and seem'd exceed- ingly well pleased that their minister was married; they show him great respect, etc. And I hope he may prove yet a great blessing among them, and be instrumental of -turning many of them from darkness to light. IIRNER DRESSER AVENUE AND .MAIN STREET for the president who is so much older. However, I hear she is a very valuable person." The bride's father was not a modern preacher with a large salary, and presents from his rich members thrown in at intervals. It is recorded that when the town of Stockbridge settled him it agreed to pay him in this manner : " The Indians and English inhabitants of this town will give 100 sleigh loads of fire-wood for the Rev. Jonathan Edwards annually, and carry it to his dwell- ing house. That is to say, the Indians are to give eighty loads and the English twenty. The English residents of the town shall also give the Rev. Jonathan Edwards £fi. 3s. 4d. lawful money." The minister's pretty daughter could not expect much " pin money " out of her father's meagre income. To get her wardrobe she painted fans and made lace for the rich ladies in Boston. The old fireplace before whose blazing logs the happy grandmother took the wrappings from her grandson, is still preserved intact. Long years afterward when Aaron Burr was branded with difgrace he came to Stockbridge, unknown at the time to any one, and asked per- mission to go over the old Edwards place. What his feelings were at that time were only known to the Searcher of hearts. s. T. p. 34. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE .ESTHETIC STOCKBRIDGE Apropos! Why should the excess of women over men — in Massachusetts — be always cast up against the state as a reproach or, at best, as a fit subject for derision? Did nota certain Darwin discourse most eloquently on the "survival of the fittest"? Ought not the proportion of women to men — following Darwin — be a matter for pride and congratulation to those most nearly concerned? a matter for deep and painful thought to those who have hitherto mocked? Stockbridge is the subject of EPISCOPAL CHUKCH my story, not woman, but Mrs. Nickleby and I have this much in common, that the appropriateness of our " apropos" is not always discernible. The size of Stockbridge is not at all commen- surate with its importance in other respects. Geo- graphically, it is a point ; politically, it is nowhere. Out of a population of 2,200 it can muster but 500 voters. (This apparent afterthought, no person of intelligence need be told comes first in order of sequence.) To a place in the world of business Stockbridge can clearly lay no claim. It does not ! It scorns business ! The world of letters is its domain ! Literature is in the air ! Stockbridge is picturesque ! It is aesthetic ! Incidentally it is fashionable. But Stockbridge is no common sum- mer resort. Its frequenters are reputed possessors of mind and culture, and to a degree higher than the rest of mankind. Allow me to present you ! This is Stockbridge Main street — one corner of it — and it is so ob- viously intended for a picture, that the ubiquitous camera is leveled at it almost daily. Artists of the brush do not visit the place as frequently as could be desired, but the amateur photographer— ye gods ! His name is legion ! Those big elms are a century old. One of the oldest inhabitants METHODIST CHUaCH, GREAT BARKINGTON Stockbridge, in his will, a goodly sum of money outright and a yearly income to be invested in books to the end of time. Somebody else gave land, another somebody gave the library building. Some few misunderstandings have arisen because of this multiplicity of donors. The library committee and the representatives of the givers of the building and the land hold different views. The committee has radical views — wants heterodox volumes, Sunday reading rooms, etc. The others are more conservative. Too much latitude under such circumstances, of course, will be forever out of the, question, but on the whole things go smoothly, and the library is utihzed to its fullest extent — prayer meetings on the top floor, reading rooms on second, and a short time ago a " Boys' Club" in the basement. This is the oldest house in "town," as the natives say. There have been many changes in the old place since it was first erected, but there is a flavor of an- tiquity about it even to-day. Go behind and look at the house, you are reminded of a huge spyglass pulled out to its fullest extent. There have been additions upon additions, and no two are of the same height. The front of the house, inside, is the old part. It was built in 1737. The woodwork is largely as it used to be and the great (double) doors are a genuine antique. The hinges stretch clear across each door and the latch turns down under the crosspiece instead of resting upon it as other latches do. This door is never locked, — there is no lock, — but a substantial bar is put up every night to give a semblance of securing the prem- ises against intrusion. Many illustrious men have lived in this old house in the old days. In its title, Ed- wards hall, it preserves the name of the most famous man of them all, Jonathan Edwards. Of late years it has become a summer boarding house, and illustrious men, to this day, are not lacking within its walls. Frank R. Stockton is one of the latest visitors well-known to fame. Edwards hall was built for the parsonage. Stockbridge came into existence as a missionary station, and still the church holds a prominent pl^ce. There are four churches, but of them all this is the gem — pictorially— it is the Episcopal church. Mr. Butler and his children built it in memory of Mrs. Butler. Mrs. Butler was a second wife, and one of THE CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH CATHOLIC CHURCH almost remembers when they were plant- ed. This next bit of Main street takes in the library. It is a free library, stocked with all kinds of books — frivolous as well as ponderous. That library has a history. Long years ago a poor boy, appointed to light the fires in the schoolhouse, lighted a fire not on the programme. He burned down the building accidentally, and then, terrified, ran away from the village as fast as his legs could carry him. He didn't have a cent, but he had pluck. He helped a drover with a lot of sheep and received one sheep as payment. From that animal grew a large fortune. Mr. Jackson — the run-a-way's name was Jack- son — died wealthy, and to compensate for the damage he had done learning's cause by the fire in his early days, he left to THE CONGREGATIONAL PARSONAGE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 35 the few step-mothers on record who had justice done to her able administration. The duties of step-mother are not easy, but this dear lady was appreciated and loved, which made her task comparatively light. The church outside is gray with red tiling roof; inside the prevailing hue is brown, with accents of brilliant color in the stained-glass windows. Artists rave over the pews — such is the beauty of the wood (quartered oak) of which they are composed — and from chancel to church- porch there is nothing short of perfection in every mi- nutest detail. establishment, more money was asked and paid than would have bought, in the begin- ning, all the ground owned by the syndicate. But the Casino behind the undertaker's enterprise had quickly built a stable. Stable was not to be bought at any price. The Casino was built to hide the stable. En passant, it is used for dances and theatricals. It is truly ornamental — it was built for a purpose. Vide Ruskin. S. A Story of Dr. Bellamy.— This story is told of Dr. Bellamy, a noted divine and teacher of theology in this country years ago : One of his parishioners, a notorious scamp, came to him one day, saying, in the parlance of the divinity that prevailed in this part of New England at that period, " I feel that I have obtained a hope ! " The doctor looked surprised. " I realize that I am the chief of sinners," continued the hypocriti- cal canter. "Your neighbors have long been of that opinion," rejoined the doctor. The man went on to say out the lesson—" I feel willing to be damned for the glory of God." " Well, my friend, I don't know any one who has the slightest objection." Once a member of Dr. Bellamy's church was brought before that solemn tribunal for some profane words spoken in wrath. He was a man liable to be provoked to a sud- e:;ti;axce tu hie guulmjs THE SKARLEF-HOPKIKS PLACE, FKOil MUUST PEIEK The church was designed by Mr. McKim — so was the Casino. The Casino is an awful innovation — a new departure of the most pronounced type. These are sadly degenerate days. Our fore- bears found amuse- ment for them- selves. Their de- scendants,forsooth, must have their "■^-^mammi^C^ amusements provided for them. The elect few dance in the Casino every Saturday night unofficially. The same few dance in the Casino every chance they get. Anchovy sandwiches, lemonade and coffee are pro- vided for Saturdays; other times the feast of reason must suffice. If the library has a history, the Casino has a story — it was forced into being. Some uncultivated ground was for sale, but no one wanted to buy it. It lay idle for years. A syndicate (they didn't so name it) of workingmen bought the land at last and proceeded to build thereon. The great Demos! On the main street! Think of of that! Ye gods! But that was not the end, to prove possession and stir up things generally. An undertaker moved house and sign to the most conspicuous place on all acquired property. That was the last of the Demos straw. After that everybody (of fhe few) in the village wanted to buy that property and nobody wanted to sell. When at last the .irgumentsof the wouM-be purchasers prevailed, they found, to their cost, delay was not cheap, as for the strip of land whereon stood Mr. Undertaker's OLD BUILDINGS AND SITE OF THE HOPKINS PLACE (FKOM AS OLD PlLIMj den gust of passion by a scamp, but tender and cherishing as a June dew to the widow and father- ""---.^ less. After hearing the evidence of his accusers. Dr. Bellamy said: "The man is a grievous sinner on one side, but, ray friends, I think he has more of \ the milk of human kindness in his heart than all the rest of my church together." BIRD S-Iil'E VIEW Among other things. Great Barrington is noted for having bt-en the first county seat of Berkshire county. In 1761 it was incorporated as a town and made the seat of justice for the shire. County buildings were afterwards erected in the town and courts were held here until 1787, then they were re- moved to Lenox. About 1755, m the second French war, a block house was built, about a mile above the bridge on the west side of the riveir, as a place of security to which the inhabitants might flee in case of an attack. In 1743, when there were only thirty families in the place, the people employed Rev. Samuel Hopkins to preach for them. He was after- NEAR THE GROUNDS A PEEP UETWEKN THE TREES wards made a doctor of divinity, and while at Great Barrington he published a num- ber of sermons and books on subjects of doctrine that excited considerable con- troversy. The sentiments he advocated were in the line of the most inhuman and repulsive Calvinism, and are generally termed " Hopkinsinian." 36 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A NOTABLE BERKSHIRE TOWN Multitudes of people have been enraptured with the scenic beauty of the Housatonic valley in the lower part of the county of Berkshire, and multitudes of pens have gracefully delineated, in charming pen pictures, its pleasing alter- nations of vale and hill and mountain. It is sufficient for the purpose of this brief article to say that, in the early colonial times, the Housatonic, which gently meanders through this lonely region, was fringed with a strip of fertile interval land, in some places expanding to considerable width, and in others contracting to very narrow limits ; that the uplands and hills on either side gradually rose higher and higher as they approached the mountains ; that the mountains in majestic grandeur looked down upon the hills ; and that both the hills and the mountains were clothed with a dense forest in which game was so abundant as to afford a comfortable subsistence to th; aboriginal inhabitants. And who were these aboriginal inhabitants ? They were the red men sub- sequently known as the Stockbridge Indians. Traditions which were carefully kept alive among them narrated the annoyances and dangers to which they were exposed by the raids of their savage neighbors on the west and north. The fierce and warlike Six Nations in Central New York sometimes threatened them and sometimes protected them, and the secluded region which sheltered them between the Green and Taconic ranges of mountains was sometimes WILLI-VM CULLEX BUTANT picturesque, but compared with most of the modern what a wonderful advance! For the pleasure of qu.iint verges accompanying each picture. menaced with an invasion of hos- tile tribes from the north. But these Stockbridge Indians, unlike most of their race, appear to have been endowed with exceptional sagacity and wisdom, measured by the remarkable utterances of Mr. Pickwick. Being asked what he would do if he found himself en- veloped in a mob, that profound philosopher replied that he would shout with the mob. But, said his persistent interlocutor, suppose there are two mobs. Shout with the loudest and biggest mob, was the triumphant answer. Sothese Stock- bridge Indians, with an instinctive sense of future security and safety, in the conflicts between the colo- nists and the Indians, prudently shouted on the side of the former, or what was substantially the same thing maintained a "masterly in- activity." In process of time, when the colonists became involved in the French and Indian wars. engraver's specimens in this book — the reader, we reproduce below the THE BllYAMT SCHUOL Lake Buel was so named in honor of Samuel C. Buel of Tyringham, who saved several persons from drowning, July 23, 1812. A silver medalwas struck and award- ed Mr. Buel, by the Washington Benevolent society of Great Barrington. m A CURIOUS OLD BOOK FOR CHILDREN Nothing marks the improvement in modern methods over the times of our forefathers, so much as the progress which has been made in engraving and printing. This is shown very forcibly in the reproductions made on this page of four little pictures taken from a book for children printed no longer than fifty years ago. This book was presented by William CuUen Bryant to a little girl in Cummington, Hampshire county, of whom he was very fond, and who is now living. The book is filled with quaint pictures of the char- acter herewith given, and doubtless the people of that day thought the animals and scenes depicted very COME, JfLAY IN THE GAUDICN Little sister, come away, And let us in the garden play, For it is a pleasant day. We will not pluck the pretty flowers, That grow about the beds and bowers. Because, you know, they are not ours. And much I hope we always may Our very dear mama obey, And mind whatever she may say. BKEAKFA8T AND PUSS Here's my baby's bread and milk. For her lip as soft as silk : Here's the basin, clean and neat ; Here's the spoon of silver sweet ; Here's the stool, and here's the chair, For my little lady fair. No, you must not spill it out, And drop the bread and milk about ; But let it stand before you flat, And pray, remember pussy cat ; Poor old pussy cat that purrs All so patiently for hers. True she runs about the house, Catching, now and then, a mouse, But, though she thinks it very nice. That only makes a iiny slice ; So don't forget, that you should stop. And leave poor puss a little drop. FjauUTENED BY Good stranger I here repose to-night, And with the morning's earliest light We'll guide you on your way. THE &TltA>GKK Who knocks so loudly at the gate ? The night is dark, the hour is late, And rain comes pelting down ! O, 'tis a stranger gone astray I That calls to ask the nearest way To yonder little town. Why, 'tis a long and dreary mile For one o'ercome with cold and toil ; Go to him, Charles, and say, FRIGHTENED BY A COW A very young lady. With Susan the maid, Who carried the baby, Were one day afraid. They saw a Cow feeding, * Quite harmless and still Yet screamed, without heeding The man at the Mill— Who, seeing their flutter, Said, Cows do no harm ; But send you good butter. And milk from the farm. liVAKT HOUSE PICIURESQUE BERKSHIRE 37 THE OIITRCH PLVCF, CREVT B.VnnrxGTON Konkapot made known the wish of himself and his people to receive Christian instruction, to some of the ministers of the province, but notably to the Rev. Mr. Hopkins of West Springfield, who having some intimation that certain funds belonging to the "Trans-Atlantic Society for the promotion of the gospel in foreign parts," were in the hands of commissioners in Boston and unemployed, visited John Stoddard as early as 1734, to ascertain whether the income of this fund or any part thereof could be rendered available for the gratification of Captain Konkapot's wishes. Mr. Stoddard was familiar with ihe relations of the Indians to the province, and of the uses to whicli the missionary fund could be applied. The information which he imparted to Mr. Hop- kins appears to have been satis- factory, as that gentleman ini- ■HHBHEBSSHHKBUlb^' 'W' ! mediately consulted the Rev. Dr. Williams of Longmeadow, who united witli him in a re- quest to the Rev. William iheir zeal and valor in behalf of the New Eng- land colonies were rec- ognized by the promo- lion of two of their prin- cipal chiefs, Konkapot and Umpachene,. who were commissioned re- spectfully as captain and lieutenant in the provin- cial service. Like Henry IV of France, when he proposed to return to tlie mother church, and solicited relig- ious instruction, Captain GRiiUXDy i)N COLoMM, RROWN .-. ESTATE RESIDENCE OF J. a. BREWER IHE UULLlsTEU I'LACE about four hundred persons, and Rev. John Sergeant was selected by the commissioners of the missionary fund to impart religious instruc- tion to them, with a salary of one hundred pounds per annum. The duties of thiS; position he faithfully discharged until his death after a ministry extending over a period of fourteen years. These Stock- bridge Indians seem to have possessed many of the qualities and iittributes with which Cooper invested his ideal Indian. They were brave, generous and magnanimous. Their vices, and no doubt Williams of Hatfield to write to the commissioners, soliciting them to bestow some attention to the condition of the Housatonic Indians. Then as nowpublic bvisiness was mainly transacted through the agency of committees or commissions, wherein the usage of the province did not inaterially differ from the present practice of the commonwealth. Mr. Williams complied with this request, and the result was that Mr. Hopkins and Dr. Williams of Longmeadow were appointed a committee to visit the Indians and ascertain their wishes in respect to M '"' %iiiMftf '^^%,i^.^,iiS^Ji religious and other instruction. After all on the east road to Sheffield HLVKi; ^tkect lURNING TO EGREMOXT they were addicted to some vicious prac- tices, were not of the degrading and brutalizing character that prevailed among some of the tribes of American savages. Mr. Sergeant is authority for the state- ment that their religious ideas and opinions had not descended to abysmql depths of darkness when they solicited instruction from the ministers and churches in the province. Indeed, it is explicitly stated that they believed in one infinite and supreme creator and ruler of the universe^ — the embodiment of wisdom, goodness and love — who loved the chil- dren he had created, and was not THE IIUDBELL FI.ACE the useless processes of circumlo- cution had been exhausted, which Thackeray satirizes with keenest irony in his "Wax and Pomatum " officials, and after another com- mittee consisting of John Stoddard, Ebenezer Pomeroy and Thomas Ingersoll had gently removed all obstacles and impediments, the Indians were withdrawn from the present townships of Sheffield and Great Barrington, and located in the town of Stockbridge, which was incorporated for their especial benefit in 1735. By accretions from Connecticut and New York, this Indian colony presently numbered THE BERKSHIRE HEIGHTS RESERVOIR 38 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ON WAIEK STKfikl constantly fulminating threats of vengeance and destruction against them. This Indian concensus of religious belief very nearly corresponds with the opinions of many Unitarians at the present day. They had even symbolized the heavenly bodies as visible signs of the existence of the happy hunting grounds which they hoped and expected to inhabit when they passed into the purely spiritual condition. Oh the termination of the pastorate of Mr. Sergeant, the great theologian, Jonathan Edwards, appears upon the scene. In some respects Mr. Edwards is the most remarkable man that has" ever lived on the western continent. As the fortress and bulwark of fancies and delusions which at various times have seemingly blocked the pathway of religious progress and development. That Mr. Edwards fully believed in this iron-clad creed is sustained by the following brief summary of his views. Says one of his biographers; " If these doctrines, (Calvinism) in the whole length and breadth of them, were relinquished, he did not see where a man could set his foot down, with consistency and safety, short of deism, or even atheism itself, or rather universal scepticism." Mr. Edwards had been involved in an irreconcilable unpleasantness with the church and people of Northampton. For twenty years, more or less, he had persistently labored to impress upon the minds of his people that God was influenced by sentiments of hatred and revenge against the human race, except such — ah infinitesimal number com- pared with themass of mankind — as he had^lected to be saved. And, per contra, that men are " naturally God's enemies." Is any reader sceptical or incredulous in this matter?. Let him read the series of sermons which Mr. Edwards preached to his people in Northampton on this particular phase of Calvinistic theology, and be convinced. At this late day it is the prevalent impression that Mr. Edwards did not feed his people so much on the pure inspiring and elevating truths of re- ligion, as upon the gloomy, drearj', despairing abstractions of an irra- tional theology utterly repugnant to the beneficent attributes with which the human mind invests Omnipotence. It is not clear that these simple, unsophisticated sons of nature, the Stockbridge Indians, comprehended, to any ap- preciable extent, the tendency and scope of the teachings and doctrines of the great New England divine. And, just so far as they did not comprehend them, it may be assumed that their peace and happiness were promoted and assured. Imagine the feelings of these untutored red men when required to surrender their belief in the great and beneficent good -., '•^■•t '■• BEUKSHIKE KITTKNS VIEW ON THE BAST KO.iD TO SHtrFiELD the dogmas of Calvinism against the assaults of the disciples and fol- lowers of Artoinius, he occupies a conspicuous and eminent position not only in his native land, but also in Europe. Morally and intellec- tually he was infinitely a greater and better man than the originator and inventor of the Calvinistic system of theology. His mind was larger, broader and more comprehensive than Calvin's. It is doubtless true that, while in conformity with the prevailing sentiment in Massa- chusetts, he would have placed rigid restrictions upon the propagation of Arminianism and Quakerism in the province, fully convinced that they were pestilent heresies, his better nature and his humanity would have revolted with horror at the bare suggestion that the apostles of error should be burned at the stake, wherein he would have been unlike Calvin, in procuring the burning of Servetus, who differed with him in opinion, and was never known to express any contrition for the atrocious act. We can now, m view of the advanced state of public opinion in regard to the fallacy* of the doctrine of a limited salvation, smile at the zeal which Mr. Edwards manifested in defence of the dogma of election, predestination and the final damnation of at least nine-tenths of the human race. It was merely an incident in the evolution of religious thought and advancement in the age in which he lived, and will unquestionably take its place in the category of errors, spirit who had watched over and protected them for ages ; in the happy hunting grounds where their fathers disported among green hills, tower- ing forests and majestic rivers, where every pros- pect 'attracts and pleases; and in the place of these satisfying and fascinating illusions and fancies, accepting as immutable truth the allegation that their an- cestors were writhing and shrieking in the torments of liquid fire, and that their torfut-e, owing to some trivial transgression of some remote progenitor in the dim and misty past, was eternal in its duration. Contemplated from any point of view there is something sad and pathetic in the career of Jonathan Edwards. We very much dislike to invest him with a OLD HOUSE 0> IIOAD L"P MOhUMENT 3I0DNTAIN '^^'^MpM^l rO^ VIEW Bl IHL WATSIDl', (,01hG II" UIK MO^.MIAI^ PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 39 ■'^**,Ma.*(*rf.*.'-'- * '■* 1,^2.^*^ ^ >.'- -«*. 15>ft.UMENT MOUNTAI> IN UISTASgE selfishness and self-complacency not only injurious to him, but repugnant to our own estimate of the man. He was unhappy in his Northampton pastorate — one of the most important churches in New England — because his preconceived opinions were not in harmony with those of his people. They would not yield what they deemed fundamental truths ; and he could not yield, as he was never known to recede, in the slightest degree, from any position he had conscientiously assumed, even to secure peace and concord between pastor and people. A few years after Mr. Edwards removed from Northampton to Stockbridge, to become the spiritual instructor and guide of the Indians, and subject their faith or their credulity to the severest strain by exacting their entire acquiescence in n OLD MAK OF THE MOUNTAIN A SCENE NEAR HTDB'S PEAK system of theology, stern, austere and forbidding to all except the elect, the Rev. Aaron Burr who had married his daughter Esther, and was officiating as president of Princeton college, suddenly died. It was very natural that the attention of the authorities of the college should be directed to Mr. Edwards as the successor of his son-in-law, and he was elected to the presidency of the institution with entire unanimity. He left Stockbridge for Princeton in January, 1758, and died in March of the same year. Among his last words, recorded by his daughter as he uttered them, were these : " Give my kindest love to my dear wife, and tell her, that the uncommon union which has so long subsisted between us, has been of such a nature, as I trust is spiritual and therefore will continue forever." Perhaps in the superior world this hope has been realized, and Mr. Edwards may still be pon- dering and meditating on abstruse metaphysical dis- tinctions, as was his habit in the earth life, while his amiable and excellent con- sort finds her time fully oc- cupied in attending to duties analogous to those which were incident to her existence in the material body. Mrs. Esther Burr and her two children, a son and a daughter, were inoculated for the small-pox at the same time as Mr. Edwards, and seemed to have perfectly recovered at the time he died. But suddenly she was seized with a violent disorder of which she died A GLIMl-SE OP THE UOUSATONIC THE DEVIL'S PULPIT in a few days, and which the attending physician said he " could call by no name but that of a messenger sent suddenly to call her out of the world." She died fifteen days after her father, and in the twenty-seventh year of her age. Contemporary authorities assert that Esther Edwards Burr excelled most of her sex in personal beauty. In manner she was plain and unafEected, but graceful and fascinating; in conversation fluent and interesting. It is said that she possessed a vivid and lively imagination, and great cheerful- ness and pleasantness of temper. " She was hopefully converted when she was seven or eight years old," and it is averred that her conversation and conduct until her death were such as " becometh godliness." This estimable 40 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lady, endowed with such rare and shining qualities, was the mother of Aaron Burr, vice- president of the United States. Her daughter, and the granddaughter of Jonathan Edwards, the writer thinks was' the wife of Tapping Reeve, a justice of the Supreme. Court of Connecticut, and the head of the celebrated law school at Litchfield. Mrs. Edwards soon followed her husband and daughter to the invisible world. A few months after the death of Mr. Edwards, Mrs. Edwards undertook a journey to Phila- delphia to look after the welfare of her two grandchildren, the orphan children of her daughter Esther, then in that city ; but as they had no relatives in that section of the country, she proposed that they should become inmates of her own family. A few days after her arrival sheVas attacked with a malignant dysentery which terminated her life in five days. Her remains were taken to Princeton and deposited by the side of Mr. Edwards. " Thus they who were in their lives remarkably lovely and pleasant, in their death were not much divided. The father and the mother, the son and the daughter were laid together in the grave, within the space of a little more than a year." And the biography previously mentioned thus moralizes : " Surely America is greatly emptied by these deaths ! How much knowledge, wisdom, and holiness is gone from the earth forever ! And where are they who shall make g(5od their ground ! " AH accounts agree in describing Mrs. Edwards as a. woman of rare mental gifts MONUMENT MOUNTAIN and, uncommon personal loveliness. Dur- ing the whole of her married life she Thou who wouldst see the lovely and the wild Mingled in harmony on Nature's face, Ascend our rocky mountain. Let thy foot Fail not with weariness, for on their tops The beauty and the majesty of earth Spread wide beneath shall make thee to forget The steep and toilsome way. There as thou stand'st, The haunts of men below thee, and above The mountain summits, thy expanded heart Shall feel a kindred with that loftier world To which thou art translated, and partake The enlargement of thy vision. Thou shalt look Upon the green and rolling forest tops, And down into the secrets of the glen And streams, that with their bordering thickets strive To hide their windings. Thou shalt gaze at once Here on white villages, and tilth and herds, And swarming roads, and there 'on solitudes, That only hear the torrent and the wind, And eagle's shriek. There is a precipice That seems a fragment of some mighty wall. Built by the hand that fashioned the old world To separate its nations, and thrown down When the flood drowned them. To the north a path Conducts you up the narrow battlement. Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild, With mossy trees and pinnacles ol flint. And many a hanging crag. But to the east Sheer to the vale, go down the bare old clitfs— Huge pillars, that in middle heaven uprear ; Their weather-beaten capitals here dark With the thick moss of centuries, and there Of chalky, whiteness, where the thunderbolt Has splintered them. It is a fearful thing To stand upon a beetling verge and see Where storms and lightning, from the huge, gray wall, Have tumbled down vast blocks, and at the base Dashed them in fragments, and to lay thine ear Over the dizzy depth, and hear the sound Of winds, that struggle with the woods below, Come up like ocean murmurs. But the scene Is lovely round ; a beautiful riveijjhere Wanders amid the fresh and fertile meads. The paradise he made unto himself, Mining the soil for ages. On each side The fields swell upward to the hills ; beyond, Above the hill, in the blue distance, rise The mighty columns with which earth props heaven. Bryant. A GLIMPSE BY THE WAYSIDE managed, and successfully managed, the temporal affairs of her husDand. When she died, at the age of forty-nine, although Uie mother of eleven children, she had hardly an equal in matronly beauty. Later there came to this town of unsur- passed natural attractions, as settlers or residents, individuals whose names are household words in the nation. The names of Bacon, Sedgwick, D wight, Wil- liams, Hopkins, Palmer, Hart, Field and Sergeant are inseparably associated with the history of Stockbridge and of Berk- shire county. s. B. Q. BEECHER ON BERKSHIRE Henry Ward Beecher thus wrote of some of the more beautiful towns in this county : " Great Barrington is one of those places which one never enters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of great numbers of the stateliest elms. It is a place to be desired as a summer residence. " Next, to the north, is Stockbridge, famed for its meadow elms, for the pic- turesque scenery adjacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along a level plain, just under the rim of the hills. If you wish to be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the summit of this encircling hill ridge, in a summer's afternoon, while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic winds, in great circuits, all through the valley, carrying willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The horizon, on every side, is piled and terraced with mountains. Abrupt and isolated mountains bolt up here and there over the whole stretch of plain, covered with evergreens." Mr. Beecher's comment upon Lenox has already been quoted. His paiticularly local references close with this paragraph : " From Sheffield to Williamstown, and then to Bennington, in Vermont, there stretches a county of valleys, lakes and mountains, that is yet to be as celebrated as the lake district of England and the,hill country of Palestine." THK SPHINX ABOVE THE CLOUDS Fanny Kemble, who lived some time in Lenox, is remembered as a remarkably generous woman, and there is not an aged person in the region to-day but can tell stories of her munificence. She was very unconventional in her habits, however, and it is not to be supposed that many of the graver people would look with much complacency on the conduct of so spirited a lady, much less on her man-like pro- pensities to driving, hunting and fishing, and less than all on her man-like attire. 15ut she had the tender sympathies of a noble woman, as many poor people at whose bedside §he watphed, and whpm she attended in sickness, have testified. uLu boot's TAVEHN (DB.STHUYEDJ PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 41 PICTURESQUE LEE Though the town of Lee is less widely 'famed for its natural beauties than some of its neighbors, the reason is not so much its inferiority in this respect as the lack of descriptive pens to advertise them to the world. There has also been a lack of mo- tive in this direction. Its predominating interest for most of the century has been manufacturing, and there has been little motive to ex- ploit its attractions for the tourist and the summer resi- dent. At one time there were no less than twenty-five paper mills in the town, and now there are more than half that number. So absorbed have its inhabitants been in their business pursuits, that perhaps they have themselves hardly appreciated their aesthetic advantages. As matter of fact, both in the gen- eral, character of its scenery, and in many of its more special features, the town may clialleage comparisonwith the most famous of its Berkshire rivals. Itaboiiiid.s in charming landscapes, and there is hardly an acre of its territory from which in some direction there is not an appeal to the sense of beauty. Lee is situated in the valley of the Housatonic and on the slopes of its border- ranges along a converging yista of hills for thirty miles to Greylock, whose clearly cut form standing squarely across the line of view closes it in that direction. The Housatonic river, first touching the town at its extreme northeastern point, forms for some distance the boundary between Lee and Lenox; then entering the town at Lenoxdale, it pur- sues a beautifully winding course to South Lee, where it turns abruptly west into Stockbridge, in search of an escape from its entangle- ment in the hills, which it finds at last at Glendale. Its descent through the town, though gradual, is quite rapid, securing a swift cur- rent and furnishing nunier- ous sites for mills. Seven dams and eight bridges cross the river within the limits of the town, and they add much to the picturesqueness of the views as one follows the river up or down the valley. Its waters are increased during its course through the town by numerous tributaries from the hills, attractive to the artist for their ever varying beauties and to the sportsman for their supply of trout remaining mysteriously unexhausted after the ravages of a century by successive troops of the devotees of Izaak Walton's gentle art. Three of ^these tributaries are of con- TIIK, CREAT HAIIKINGTON CATTLE SnoW THE KACE — KEADY TO START 'ONLY FIVE CENTS TO niT niBl!' ing hills. Viewed from neighboring emi- nences its main portion shows as a long a;id deep depression in the landscape, shut in on all sides except the north by ranges of hills, the river winding almost exactly through the middle. On the east it is bounded by the long undulating range known as Washington mountain, lying -partly within its own limits, and partly in the town of Washington. On the south the view is closed on the right by the massive pile of the Beartown range, and on the left by Pixley mountain, with an opening between- into the beautiful valley of Tyringham. In the middle of the view on the west rises the ridge called Rattlesnake mountain, revealing over its northern slopes the more distant hills of Richmond, and over its southern ones those of West Stockbridge, and from some points the peaks of the Catskills on the far horizon. Northward the eye lllE MIOOl'INC siderable size. One, the outlet of Laurel lake, falls into the river in a little cascade near the Eagle mill at the center of the town. The second, through which flow the combined waters of Greenwater lake in Becket and of Lake May in the north- eastern part of Tyringham, empties about a mile below the center. The third, called Hop brook, flowing lazily down from the valley of Tyringham, meets the river -near South Lee. The Lake May stream, descending several hundred feet in the course of three miles, is hardly inferior, as a source of water power, to the Housatonic itself, and is utilized by several mills. Shut in closely between the hills and plunging down its deep gorges, it presents many scenes of wild beauty for the pencil and the cam- era of the artist. A somewhat peculiar feature in the landscape of Lee is a series of rocky PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE CANE STAND 42 eminences running diag- onally across the valley from Laurel lake on the west nearly to the moun- tains on the other side. They rise so precipitously as to be at many points inaccessible, and with their crowns of ever- greens, they are promi- nent and attractive ob- jects both summer and winter. One of these emi- nences, rising at its high- est point two hundred feet above the river, and called Fern Cliff, is almost in the village limits, and furnishes from its summit a beautiful view of the village and its immediate surroundings. A shaded and grassy amphitheatre at the top forms an almost ideal place for picnics and open-air assemblages, while its secluded pathways and cool recesses make it a most refreshing place of resort of a summer day. It forms an admirable adjunct to the play- grounds of the neighboring schoolhouses, and is supposed to be a favorite trysting place for lovers on moonlight evenings. On its northern slope is a detached portion of cliff, large as a house, called Union Rock. Every visitor is expected to climb itj a somewhat difficult feat except for youthful agility, but well repaying the effort by the added prospect of the village and valley which the outlook affords. On the eastern side of Fern Cliff is a deep recess formed by a shelving rock, which is known as Peter's Cave. The story is that in the time of Shays' rebellion, with which the inhabitants of Lee were deeply implicated, this cave furnished for some time a hiding place to Peter Wil- cox, one of Shays' men, who with others had been outlawed and condemned to death for treason against the government. Here he was secretly fed by friends from the neighboring farmhouses until the ban of the governmpnt was lifted. In its deep seclusion and diiificult accessibility it is not poorly adapted to ■'■•■'■ such a purpose even now, and it is seldom visited except by adventurous boys. Another incident of this abortive uprising is associated with the eastern part of the town. While General Lincoln was on his march towards' Western Massachusetts to restore order, two hun- dred and fifty malcontents gathered on the ridge in Cape street, where Mr. Sennett. now lives, then occupied by Arthur Perry. Here they were confront- ed by several hundred government troops under General Patterson of Lenox, who had taken a position half a mile away on Hamblin's hill on the other side of Greenwater brook. Shays' men, it is said, supplied their lack of cannon by mounting Mrs. Perry's yarn beam on a pair of • wheels and parading it as a piece of artillery. The government officers had not reckoned on being compelled to face cannon balls, and so precipitately -nithdrew, greatly to the exultation and amusement of the rebels at having beaten the government with a Quaker gun. The prob- ability is that there was no serious purpose of bloodshed on either side. The points of vantage for fine and extensive landscape views in Lee are numberless, but some claim special mention. From numerous points on the Washington range of hills, there are most commanding views westward to the Catskills, and northward and southward al- most to the limits of the county. From Golden hill in the extreme north of the town there are views in all directions hardly to be paralleled in the county for variety and beauty. High Lawn farm in the northwest part of the town, belonging to the estate of the late Hon. Elizur Smith, and iilLALUUT HUUHKb famous for its breed of horses, is a landscape in itself, such is its extent and variety of surface. Comprising more than six hundred acres under the most perfect cultivation, variegated with groves of maple and evergreen, commanding magnificent views in every direction, northward the cultivated beauties of Lenox, eastward the rugged ones of Mount Washington, Rattlesnake mountain on one side, and the blue waters of Laurel lake on the other— it presents a combination of attractions possessed by few estates in the country. From one point Greylock in the north and the Dome in the extreme southwest can both be seen at the same moment. This estate alone could furnish desirable sites for quite a township of summer palaces. Laurel lake ill itself and in its surroundings is one of the most charming little slieets of water in New England, as worthy of a poet's descriptive pen as the lakes of Wordsworth, and certain sooner or later to find its place in song and story. Adjoining High Lawn on the north, partly in Lee and partly in Lenox, is the beautiful place of Mr. G. W. Westing- house, called Erskine park. With 'its numerous white buildings, almost a hamlet in themselves, and its private electric plant, whose numerous lights set the hill-top aglow at night, duplicating themselves in the waters of the lake, it presents a rare and charming spectacle. It seems like a fragment of the White City— Chicago —set down AFTEHKOOS TEA UN TH K UUuUNUS ANr» l.l'ITIJ-; \Vn among the Berkshire hills. Cornhill on the road to Stockbridge is almost equally rich in beautiful landscapes and commanding sites for residences. The view in the direction of the Tyringham valley is especially delightful. From the heights of Beartown the views open magnificently northward through the whole extent of the Housatonic valley. It is from this van- tage ground that Levi Beebe, the Beartown prophet,"has for more than thirty years studied the weather signs and gained skill in weather pre- diction that has made his name a household word through all the region. He has come to seem a part of the mountain itself, and is as picturesque in character and person as anything in Berkshire. One interesting fea- ture of all the landscapes of Lee is the- commanding steeple of the Con- gregational church. It appears as a central object in nearly every view, — now towering high in the air, and now just visible above the hills and trees. Its builders builded better than they knew. Their spire stands more widely significant of the supernatural among the beauties of the natural than they thought when they thrust it so far up towards the sky. It is an object of constant admiration to the summer visitors, and they have repeatedly expressed their desire in case of its destruction by fire or storm, to contribute for its restoration, that it may be kept perpetually PICTUllESQUE BERKSHIRE 43 in its place as a part of the landscapes of Berkshire. The villagers of Lee are modest in their pretensions, and make no claim to comparison with some others in the region for elegance and beauty. They are suggestive of comfort and com- petence rather than of wealth and luKury. But there are few pleasanter nooks in the county than the square in the south part of the center village, with its gem of a park and its hand- some public and private buildings. Portions also of East Lee village and of South Lee are very attractive. As one of the youngest towns of the county, Lee has few residences of historic or ancestral interest. The Hyde parsonage, just west of the river in the center, has something of this did in one sudden wave it proved irre- sistible. Trees were uprooted and carried down stream, and even boulders tons in weight were torn from their beds and swept along like pebbles. At last the wave with its accumulated debris struck the houses and other buildings lining the Greenwater brook. Some of the inhabitants, startled by the thunder of the approaching flood, had just time to escape from their beds to the neighboring hills. Others were roused by David Baker, who, from his home on the mountain, having early notice of the disaster, at the risk of his life raced on foot before the wave to warn the people in the valley of their danger. But to some alas the warning came too late, and seven were swept to their death. One family of five went down in the wreck of their house, and only one survived. Only two or three who were caught by the flood came out of it alive. The wave did not spend its force until it reached the Housatonic, and it left the valley for two miles a scene of ruin indescribable. The loss of property was very large, and though partially met by contributions which poured in generously luUT OF CHUIJiTIAN HILL THE SEDGWICK INSTIllTE interest as the residence of Dr. Alvin Hyde, for more than forty years the pastor of the Congregational church ; as also does the house of Theron L. Foote, built in the last century, but in perfect preservation and occupying one of the most charming sites in town. Mr. Foote is the fourth in direct descent from the original settler on this spot. This house once served as a tavern, and dur- ing the Shays rebellion is said to have been the rendezvous of Shays men in all this region. The Jared Bradley house in Bradley street, and the Bradley homesteads on the north road to Stock- bridge, also have some claim to antiquity, as have a number of houses in South Lee. In East Lee, near Mr. McLaughlin's foundry, is standing a house said to be the first frame building erected in town. It now serves as one of the outhouses of the foundry. The East Lee valley was the scene a few years ago of a destruc- tive flood, the traces of which still remain. In the early morn- ing of 'April 20, 1886, Mud pond, on the mountain in the extreme eastern part of the town, a little reservoir of two or three acres used for storage purposes, suddenly, for spme cause as yet unexplained, burst through its embankment and poured itself down the mountain side and out into the valley. The amount of water was absurdly small for the effects wrought, but coming as it from all parts of the country, that part of the town has never fully recovered from the shock to its prosper- ity. Many of the buildings have been repaired, but not a few stfll lie in the ruin in which the flood left them ; and the deep gorge ploughed by the mad waters down the mountain side will remain forever a m.emorial of the East Lee flood. Lyman S. Rowland. THE SEDGWICK BOYS AT I'LAV— POLO IN THE WATEII, ETC. Dean Stan- ley, when in Berkshire, stood on the piazza of Rev. Henry M. Field's home in Stockbridge, and as he looked off upon the beautiful land- scape said : — " Can Heaven be more beauti- ful than this?" >»1.1tli / If Ik L)X EAST sTHEKT THE -MU.NLJIL-N !■ MILLS iiiii(_|,: 44 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Bolivar ,and the two-seated wagon had disappeared from the post under the ipaple tree. Old Bolivar had gone to meeting and was standing, with a sanctimonious look on his face, in his accustomed place under the meeting-house shed, and he was at his post before the last bell stopped ringing. Grandfather walked the two miles to the meeting-house, but the rest of the family stayed at home. From that time old Bolivar Was a noted character in Berkshire. " ^. ■*»*&^ On TllK EAST UOAD 10 bliLUlLLD OLD BOLIVAR Grandfather's go-to-meeting horse was one of the noted characters of Berkshire, sixty years ago. He was such a trust- worthy animal that after grand- father had hitched him uj), he needed no tie strap to ensure his faithfulness at his post. Grandfather was a very pfunc- tual man and his Sunday-go-to- meeting shoes, and those of his family, were never known to go squeaking up the aisle after meeting had begun. Old Bolivar was always standing under the ipeeting-house shed before the last bell stopped ringing. One Sabbath morning grandmother found that the children had not learned their catechism ques- tions perfectly, and she had been hindered about getting ready, trying to make the chil- dren "see their way through adoption, justification and sanc- tification." They had run: away from the catechism ques- tions — those dear grandc{iildren, during the week. The new-mown hay, the flowers of the field, the singing of the birds had entirely obliterated the catechism from their minds, and now at the beginning of the " Day of all the week the best," their good grandmother had brought them face to face with the doctrinal points they must be able to define at Sunday school, and do credit to their religious home teaching. Grandfather grew very uneasy as he watched the pointers of the clock go round. " Keziah," he said to his wife, in an impatient tone, " the last bell has rung — we'll be late to meeting — I always said I'd never go squeaking up to my slip after the preacher be- gins, and I won't." So grandfather took off his Sunday-go- to-meeting shoes and put on his everyday ones that were too weary with their daily march through the week to an- nounce themselves as coming into meeting. Grandmother put on her leghorn scoop bonnet with the A Curious Circumstance.— The following circumstance is, related by Dr. D wight as having occurred at the great bridge in Great Barrington: "A Mr. Van Rensselaer, a young gentleman from Albany, came one evening into an inn kept by a Mr. Root just at the eastern end of the bridge. Mr. Root replied that that was im- possible, because it had been raised that very day, and that not a plank had been laid on it. Mr. Van Rensselaer said that it could not be true, because his horse had come over without any difficulty or reluctance; that the night was indeed so pro- foundly dark as to prevent him from seeing anything distinctly, but that it was in- credible, if his horse could, see sufficiently well to keep his footing anywhere, that he should not discern the danger, and impossible for him to pass pver the bridge in that condition. Each went to bed dissatisfied, neither believing- the story of the other. In the moaning Mr. Van Rensselaer went, at the solicitation of his host, to view the bridge, and finding it a naked frame gazed for a moment, with aston- ishment, and fainted."' > THE MOUNTAINS IN OCJOBER A SCEKE Ua THE HluHVV'Ai ^EAK UKEAT BAKKl^U'XUU That scenery which a few weeks ago. stood in summer green now seemed enchanted. The Housatonic was the same. The skies were the same. The mountain forms were un- changed. But they had blos- somed into resplendent colors from top to base. It was strange to see such huge -moun- tains, that are images of firm- ness and majesty, now tricked out with fairy pomp, as if all the spirits of the air had reveled there, and hung their glowing scarfs on every leaf and, bough. I stand alone upon the peace- ful summit of ]the hill, and turn in every direction. The east is all aglow ; the blue north flashes all her hills with radiance ; the west stands in burnished armor ; the southern hills buckle the zone of the horizon together with emeralds and rubies, such as were never set in the fabled girdle of thd gods ! Only the brotherhood of evergreens — the pine, the cedar, the spruce and the hemlock — refuse to join the universal revel. They wear their sober green straight through autumn BlilDGE A\D -UAil AT JIEAU UF UliEEX KXVKK IIEAU Oil' GEEEN RlVElt WATEli I'UWEtt long, black lace veil hanging down the side, drawn off from her face like a cur- tain, folded a white muslin handkerchief across her black silk waist and was ready. But when the door was reached, old OLD "ff'ILLOWS and winter, as if they were set to keep the path of sum- mer open through the whole year, and girdle all seasons together with a clasp of endless green. But in vain do they give solemn examples to the merry leaves which Irolic with every breeze that runs sweet riot in the glow- ing shades. Gay leaves will not be counseled, but will die bright and laughing. Beecher. In his " Wonder Book for Boys and Girls," Nathaniel Hawthorne gives some accurate descriptions of Lenox scenery. Therein he has clothed six of the classical myths in forms adapted to the capacities and suited to the improvement of the young, and with remarkable success. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE BROOK AND POND LIFE 45 Born of the quaint old Indian tongue, the word Taghconic, with its pleasing sound, mimics the gurgle of the babbling brook, and with its meaning "plenty water," well fits the mountain range that in its quiet beauty bears the name. From Vermont and the Greens upon the north to Connecticut and the Canaan mountains in the south stretches a double line of hills that form the natural foundation upon which the commonwealth has reared the superstructure of a county. Double, I called these hills, but m '^■i<'-w* THE TRESTLE AT VAX DEUSKN VILLE VAN DEUSENVILLE GREEN RIVER A VlfeTA ON THK (iliEES RlVEi; they might, indeed, be termed an arch — for the two pillars, the Hoosacs on the east and the Tagh- conics on the west, resting their bases on the southern Massachusetts border, stretch to the north- ward in a narrow line across the state and there, joining in When breezes are soft and skies are fair I steal an fioiir from study and care, And hie me away to the woodland scene, Where wanders the stream with waters of green. As if the fringe of herbs on its brink Had given their stain to the wave they drink ; And they whose meadows it murmurs througli, Have named the stream from its own fair blue. Yet pure its waters — its shallows are bright With colored pebbles and sparkle of light, And clear the depths where its eddies play, And dimples deepen and whirl away, And the plane-tree's speckled arms o'ershoot The swifter current that mines its root, Through whose shifting leaves, as you walk the hil], The quivering glimmer of sun and rill. With a sudden flash on the eye is thrown, Like the ray that streams from the diamond stone. Oh, loveliest there the spring days come, With blossoms and birds and wild bees' hum ; The flowers of summer are fairest there, And freshest the breath of summer air ; And sweetest the golden autumn day In silence and sunshine glides away. Bryafi/. i*ff * .^ r^^M' ^,iMi*3j3»* t"i'jii"i* .■T\':£2r"^-2:ji^^v!:i"l i>i,ikR.-Hii{K iiEn;in> •^1^ iaK DAM AT \ AK l>ELbEi,\'lLLE LUKG LAKE a single sweep, they claim the rugged form of Greylock as their keystone, while from out this quaintly rustic arch the Housatonic flows. Much has been said and written about these Berkshire hills, but strangely few are they who have yet sung the praises of the Berkshire valleys. Yet whai were one without the other? Nor are her valleys all, for the streams that wan- der through their lower levels, when seen in the sunset light, form but the silver setting of the emerald green of nature. New England, north and west, takes a just pride in the winding Connecticut valley, while the old Nutmeg state her- self glories in her Housatonic, and New York dwells long upon the theme of her favored Hudson, but Berkshire levies alike her tribute upon each and claims a portion of them all. Thus three great water basins draw from her a portion of their aqueous supplies. Where, in the prehistoric, earlier days once OA TUE SEliJioKii KiVEK 46 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ebbed and flowed the seas of Silurian time, now ebb and flow only the seas of Time itself. Water, indeed, is there, but its strange lives and its salty nature both are gone and the babbling brook now meekly wanders o'er the rocks that tell the story of its former greatness. Often in summer. Upon the. rounded boulder that in former ages the glacier has crunched and ground beneath its ponder- ous weight, now sfts the sun- tanned schoolboy whose naked feet bathe idly in the pool below. FOOT OF THREE-MILD HILL CLIMBING THE HILL Given the freedom of the stream, and alike to him are the weighty questions of both church and state, of polity and policy. Lit- tle cares he for aught — aught save the dread mos- quito ! With his skates in winter, and in summer his fishi ng tackle of string and crooked pole, he forms as much a part of the brook life of Berkshire as does the fish that shyly nibbles at the harmless bait on his bended pin. It is well that the potent Yankee forces within him should, in their younger days, be thus tamed and softened by a contact with nature, such as life, in its busier seasons, cannot know and many a time, in after years, when the purling stream shall have long since ceased to ripple over those wading feet and heavy toil and care shall have worn their deep lines in both brow and palm, the ferny bank and shadowy pool will come into his thoughts in a way so deep that only soul itself can understand. It was thus as a schoolboy among these hills that I learned to know and love alike the sunny lake and the mud-pool by the roadside. Nothing brought more happiness than a tramp of miles along some mountain stream, by day or night, in sunshine or in storm, and later years have not dimmed for me the charms of nature. A brookside visit still will serve to brighten many a com- ing hour of toil. Many of the more common, living forms that find a home in and around our streams and ponds are quite familiar to us all, but let us catch for a moment a glimpse of some of those which spend their humble lives in quieter obscurity. The stem that nobly bears yonder water lily as its fitting crown bears other treasures, too, beneath the water's sur- face. Such a friendly shelter as this is the chosen home of many a molluscan form. Rarest of these among our Berkshire pools is the " fresh water limpet," or ancylus, as it is technically called. It consists of a single, delicate shell, shaped much like the scale-bugs so common upon cultivated trees and plants, but unlike them it does not always feed upon the host over which it travels. Scarcely the size of a single rice grain and but little thicker than the paper of the page you read, this almost transparent shell yet bears within a strange living form that yields rich treas- ure to the scientist. , Like all shells of its class, the under side of its entire length is flattened into a soft, muscular surface, called the foot, by means of which it crawls. Near the front edge of this foot, and still underneath its body, is found the mouth, almost circular in outline, and curiously furnished with three minute, horny jaws, one in front and one upon either side, each deeply grooved, and all working like three washboards rubbing across each other. But turn a A LONG LAKE WOOD PATH Still more powerful lens upon this complex mouth, and yet other wonders will await us. We shall find here also a per- fectly transparent tongue, broad in proportion to its length, and armed like the tongues of nearly all shells, with several thousand siHcious, glassy teeth. All of these bright teeth, for bright and shining they are, are so sharp that the most powerful microscope shows not a sign of dullness upon them, while even their seemingly broad bases are so narrow that a dozen of them could stand in position side and side across the edge of the keenest razor. They are arranged in rows running in both directions, from front to back, and from side to side. The teeth in every row that run along the length of the tongue are wholly different from all the others except those in the corresponding row just opposite. Thus the outside rows upon both edges of the tongue are exactly alike, and so are the two next, and the two next to them, and so on. The rows from side to side vary in size, but all are duplicates of each other. The teeth along the outer edges are exceed- belciirr's caae AT THE TOF OF THltKE-MILE HILL ingly small and sharp, but we shall find a regular gradation in size between these and the larger teeth along the middle of the tongue while a' powerful glass will reveal the fact that many of them have their sharp edges cut and divided into the most delicate, needlelike pmnts. When first hatched, this shell, like all its relatives, has but a narrow tongue, furnished with only two or three rows of teeth, but as it grows older, other rows are added along its edge, until some have as many as seventy-two lines of these minute, shining knives. Far different from their human friends, these little forms are strangely consist- ent in their ways for, if ever a single tooth varies from what it should be, every tooth within that row will be found to have the same deformity. With such a set of jaws and teeth, do you wonder that the lily stem from which it came should have upon it tiny marks as if its surface had been eaten ? But the study of its mouth does not exhaust the won- ders of this little traveler, for like its larger neighbors, it is furnished with a full set of NEVE illE TO\S5. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 47 ON THE IIOUSATONIC muscles and organs for sight and motion, hearing, feeling, and digestion and has, besides, a perfect heart with perfect blood and perfect circulation. Although this tiny creature leads a quiet life in its home among the water sedges and the lily stems, yet its kind has traveled far and is known to many climates. It is found in the grassy pool at your feet, and found alike in the islands of the Spanish Main and the rivers of the west, from the cold Canadian lakes to the tropic groves of South America, and from the high mountains of the New World to the daYnp vales of the Old. But now close beside the rough, time-worn stone that the ancient gla- ciers once tore from its rocky bed beyond the Canadian border, comes swimming the yellow and brown and speckled body of the lazy triton. No wonder that his repulsive form and ridiculously serious face and scale-like spots have made him the namesake of the fabled sea triton of Greek mythology. Like many of the lower batracliiaus, this quaint mock sage has the strange power of reproducing portions of his body that are lost. Its feet and tail are easily broken and are doubtless often snapped off by the fishes, but they all soon grow again. Even an eye, when once put out, is, in a few weeks, replaced by another, bright and new. From time to time these animals lose their outer skin and come forth in a newer and a larger suit, and often have I laughed to watch this comic sham, with look as wise as Solomon, go through the act of shedding his speckled coat. The skin, which for a few days has looked more dull than usual, cracks open in a short line along the back ar.d the little hand-like fore feet slowly reach up to the back of the neck and there evidently try to unbutton his refractory collar, the creature, meanwhile, posing, for all the world, as though he were waiting to hear something drop. At last after many trials, the work is done and bending his longhead underneath hisbreast he proceeds to pull his shirt off over it. This allows his head to project through the slit in the back. Then demurely winking fast one eye and then the otljer, and repeatedly gaping his new mouth so wide that one would think he were about to divide into halves, like a pea pod splittinglehgthwise he looks himself over carefully and then rubs and pulls the skin from his fore feet exactly as a laborer rolls down his sleeves. The stupidly simple interest he takes in the whole proceeding is ludicrous in the extreme, and after the changing of his coat has at last been completed, the way those knowing eyes survey his new jacket from end to end is droll beyonb description. The Menobranchus, or mud puppy, whose darker form, scarcely four inches in length, is so strangely like, yet unlike, that of his neighbor, the triton, finds here also a congenial home. This animal, with its curiously fringed and tufted gills standing out upon either side of its neck, is more nearly like the siren of the South and the axolotl of Mexico than any other that has yet been found within the limits of our North- ern waters. Like the old sailor who had fallen overboard in the mid-Atlantic, the green frog sitting on the rock at my feet is " Wet, ma'm ! wet ! very wet ! ! " but a close examination of his damp form will bring to light many unseen charms. Even the tiny leech that clings to his curious feet, though dark and repulsive at first, yet, when seen through the keen eye of the microscope, reveals a subtle beauty, for even he is curiously and wonderfully made. But these strange creatures have yet other neigh- bors as fascinating as they. From between the bowl- shaped leaves of the pitcher plant, the buck bean, or three-leaved Menyanthes, lifts its dainty, star-like flowers, so finely fringed with white, as though a snow- flake from a winter's storm had fallen on the slender stem and changed into a crystal flower. It is with us a rare plant and a choice one, for no mountain pass or meadow vale within our Eastern states yet held a fairer gem. Above and around it, among the grass and sedges twine the yellow, thread-like stems of the dodder. Starting, like others, from its seed, this little twiner soon lays hold upon some neighboring plant and opens its career of theft. Its nature changes and a parasitic life begins. No longer needing connection with the earth, its useless lower portions die away while the leafless top grows on, dwarfing the life and sucking the juices of the plants over which it twines, while it decks their dying stems with garlands of its small, white flowers, so different from the bright morning-glories with which it scientifically belongs. But just here, rising above this tangled mass, stands perhaps the most picturesque of all the water-side plants of Berkshire. It is the common Typha, or cat-tail flag, whose naked spadix and noble leaves unite with the ferns and sumachs in lending such a tropical air to the shores of many of our Northern ponds. In Europe the young sprouts of this plant are often eaten, especially by the Cossacks along the Don, and it is even used in some parts of Britain where it is locally known as Cossack asparagus. Around us the showy heads of the tour-pronged cuckle, Bidens chrysan themumoides, form a yellow mass, with flowers as large and handsome as those of many of the much-prized chrysanthemums of our gardens, while beneath them, in the long, damp moss, the rare Drosera finds a home. This is a queer little, insect-eating plant whose history dates back into the remote geologic ages of the fossil beds. Its leaves are strangely covered with long, stiff hairs whose ends are tipped with glands secreting a viscid juice that proves a deadly trap for the unwary fly. Passing farther on, we may find the surface of the pond covered, in places, with a bright green, scum-light growth. It is the curious pond weed which always floats, with scarcely a visible root or top, spending its whole time drifting about and growing and dividing. In such a short tramp one can notice but a few of the living forms around him, for the kinds that inhabit even our Berkshire streams are hundreds in number, and the study of them has been the life work of many a scientist. But here the pool ends and we reach the stream again. Going a short distance up its ferny bed, one catches the beauty of its shadowy way. In the words of Trowbridge it is: — " Just a brooklet, so perfect and sweet, Like a child that is always a child ; A picture, as fair and complete, As softly and peacefully wild, As if Nature had only just made it And laid down her pencil, and smiled." Who would wish now to break the charm its quiet beauty brings to soothe the mind? Resting upon a mossy stone, we try, with the fish and flowers, to share once more a portion of the brooklet's life. We watch the sparkling water play with the dancing light and shade until the cricket sounds its evening chirp and the twilight glow of the sunset sky fades slowly o'er the westerri hills, till Nature seeks again her quiet rest and day is lost in the dusk of evening. Walter Harrison. VACATIONS IN BERKSHIRE THE HIGHWAY, NEAR THE VILL\OF. The advantages of the Berkshire hills as a place for summer resort are marked and increasingly manifest. Situated as this region is a thousand to fifteen hun- dred feet above the tidewater — two hours distant from Springfield and Albany, and four and a half hours from New York and Boston, the natural, social, busi- ness, literary, political and religious associations make this country the most attractive arid the most available of any mountain region in New England. The White mountains are always interesting, but they are distant, and are given up to tourists, who descend upon the hotels like an Egyptian plague of locusts and leave not any "green thing" to those who come after them. But the Berkshire hills are quiet, peace- breathing, easy to get into and easy to be lost in, and there is a peacefulness and refreshment about them which the more notorious mountain haunts fail to develop. Pittsfield, Mass., is the terminus of four distinct railroads, and from this as the center of the Berkshire region it is possible to go to New York by eight distinct routes — three ways by water and the rest by rail. These routes are: The Boston & Albany, the Housatonic, the Harlem, the Hudson River, the West Shore, the night boat from Albany and Troy, the day boat from Albany, and the boat from Hudson. HOLSATONIC 48 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Perhaps some day when our Shaker friends are through with their experiment of celibacy and retirement from the world and have given in their witness to the testimony and revelation of Ann Lee, their great caravansaries may become philanthropic schools of reforms for our gamin boys and wayward girls, and thus the superfluous energies of our now overdeveloped and complex parochial life may seek this line of work as the next and newest field for the exercise of its powers. One other interesting excursion from Pittsfield, the queen city of the Berkshire region, is through the enterprising town of Dalton where Lieutenant-Governor Weston has his picturesque chilet, " Great Hearth," on Mount Weston, past Windsbr Falls to Cum- mington, the hom^ of the poet Bryant. As one NMAli TIIK TOWN, CIltKAT BABRINGTON DEEP SHADOWS IK TlIK HOUSATONIC, SOUTU FROM IRON BRIDGE, GREAT HARRINGTON The carefully prepared map of the Berkshire Life Insurance company furnishes a most convenient choice of roads for a carriage itinerary through this wonderful county, extending as it does from the hills of Connecticut to the Green mountains of Vermont. Here are the famous drives to Williamstown, along the Cheshire Harbour valley with the manufacturing towns of Adams, Renfrew, Xylonite and Maple Grove scattered along the sides of Greylock. Then from North Adams a detour can be made to the pretty little hamlet of Florida, or on through Williamstown to Pownal and Benning- ton, where the great monument now stands, and back again to Pittsfield, around the beautiful mountain road which skirts the western side of Greylock and leads into the quaint old town of Lanes- borough and along the shores of Lake Pontoosuc into Pittsfield. Or one can ride out over the causeway that spans Lake Onota, past the beauti- ful mansions of Mr. H. C. Valentine of New York and Mr. Walker of Chicago, places which remind one, in the beauti- ful glimpses of lake and mountain seen from their lawns, of views upon the Lake Como and the Lake Maggiore in Italian Switzerland, just before reaching Milan. Then from Onota's placid water, the mountain path leads on to Lulu cas- cade and Balance rock and over Potter's mountain to Hancock and Stephentown. • From Potter's mountain the Catskills are plainly visible, with the Cats- kill Mountain house ledged like a white flower on some ravine's slope, and in the op- posite direction the white meet- ing-house of Peru on its high hill-top is easily seen. The ride to Peru itself is most interesting, showing as it does a typical deserted hill town, and the route on to Savoy leads through a wildly picturesque region. Still another drive is to Lebanon Springs, stopping at the Hancock and Lebanon Shakers, where, if one is so fortunate at the latter spot, he may happen to see the remarkable and now quite famous Brother Alonzo Hollister, whose facial resemblance to Emerson is quite marked, and whose busy pen and eager mind together make him a most attractive visitor. The famous lake of " Queechy," giving as it did the 'title to the novel of that name, fur- nishes another beautiful drive through the environs of the quaint old town of Richmond and past the celebrated Richmond iron works. Burnham farm, near by, at present under the charge of the Brothers of St. Christopher, is also an object of interest to the tourist who wishes to see the practical and most successful working out of the problem of caring for and developing the wild and wayward boys of our cities, who are saved by this experiment at Burnham farm from becoming classed early in life as jail birds and prison hangers on. ^Mr ^r^ ^^V_ ; '", l^fSxR.' ^--^^*~~Ttf W^' •'■''i*t".f-^jSt PUP^^y ^^■f vt;. m ' ' ^-'S^ r '^. W-W ■jm^ ■ 1 \ ■■ B^^J ■?v-,- •' ■."• ■ "■ ' '■-' ' ■" ' ' ,;^S tPP^^S'"''.':'^ n MAIN SIKKIiT Ki:O.M PLEASANT, IIUUSATONIC wandersoverthe grounds of this home of the poet in his boy- hood, in some strange way the association of the arbor cul- ture in that neighborhood brings forcibly to mind the matchless rhythm of our great poet of nature in his famous " Forest Hymn " : — " The sroves were God's first temples ere man learned To hew the shaft and lay the architirave And spread the roof above them, ere he framed The lofty vault to gather and roll jback The sound of anthems ; in the darkling wood, Amid the cool and silence he knelt down, And offered to the Mightiest solem^ thanks ; And supplication, ****#* + * * * Let me often to these solitudes Retire, and in thy presence reassure My feeble virtue. Here its enemies The passions at thy plainer footsteps shrink, And tremble and are still. Be it ours to meditate. In these calm shades, thy milder majesty. And to the beautiful order of thy Works, Learn to conform the order of our lives." A little brook which runs near by this old Bryant homestead seems as if it might have been the occasion of the composition of his exquisite little poem : — THE RIVULET " Thou changest not, but I am changed, Since first thy pleasant banks I ranged. And the grave stranger came tri see The play-place of his" infancy, Has scarce a single trace of him, Who sported once upon thy brim, The visions of my youth are pastj — Too bright, too beautiful to last. I've tried the world, it wears no more ; The color of romance it wore, Yet well has nature left tl.e truth She promised in my earliest youth. And I shall sleep and on thy side, As ages after ages glide. Children their early sports shall try. And pass to hoary age and die. But thou unchanged, from year to year, Gayly shall play and glitter here ; Amid young flowers and tender grass, Thy endless infancy shall pass ; A nd singing down thy narrow glen, Shall mock the fading race of men.'' ON MAIN SlUEEl, HOUbAiONlL IKT, HOI.^'^AT'0^■!C PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE While the natural advantages of Berkshire cannot be surpassed, it is by no means devoid of literary life, aid many authors well known to fame have made their homes among the Berk- shire hills. The picturesque settlement of Williamstown, the seat of the college, stands on the side of Mount Greylock. This pretty tow n, boasting of but one street, is the center of ;ill literary life at the 'present day, and it was here that Mark Hopkins lived, worked and died. The college has been the Alma Mater of many famous sons, who have gone forth and lived their lives and left their influence to bear testi- mony to the moral strength which they have here acquired. It was on his journey hither that President Garfield was bent when he was so cruelly shot in the depot at Washington. Williamstown ■ has much natural beauty, aside from the many hapdsome buildings attached to the college. The broad avenue which runs through the center of the town, is bordered by sentinel-like trees, magnificent elms which have stood the st^-ess of many seasons. The college library stands back from the street, and near it is the chapel, a quaint, old-fashioned building containing a window to the memory of Presi dent Garfield, erected by the students. The college buildings are scattered through the town, and across the campus one goes to watch the athletic talent of the college teams, foot or baseball, as the case may be', and the crimson of Harvard or the purple and white of Amherst are frequently seen, mingling with the royal purple of Williamstown. Once, many years ago, a little band of students met behind a haystack, -T near the college, to listen to the preaching of a zealous mission- ary, and thus, in this primitive manner, was formed the Ameri- can Board of Foreign Missions, nearly a century ago. 49 of the Breakfast Table " gave the delightful story of " Elsie Venner " to the world. He has laid the scene of the story in the city of Pitts- field, at the time of the novel's first appearance, merely a pretty country town. Dr. Holmes owned a residence in the southern part, and used a certain mountain in the neighborhood for the scene of Elsie's adventures, and so it hap- pens that South Mountain is the object of much speculation, and many a school-girl and boy has tramped the mountain for the sole purpose of seeing " Rattlesnake Cave," where they fondly imagine Elsie used to seclude herself. The cave in question is a small one with an opening at each end, and there are ledges of rock in- side; a damp, gloomy place, suggestive of snakes VIEW NEAR TIII5 MILLS, HOUSATONIC CORKER MAIN AND PLEASANT STREETS I '■ THE NEW MILL " Rose Terry Cooke, who, until so recently charmed us with her prose and poetry alike, lived for many years in Pittsfield, and many a passer-by has seen the authoress as she sat on her piazza on summer days. Then, too, there is Herman Melville, who, a generation ago, charmed the boys with his famous stories of adventure. '' Abby Lodge," the. beautiful home of the author, is a short distance from Pittsfield and affords a pleasant drive. On one of the principal streets of "' ' Pittsfield stands an old-fashioned house, which is said to be the house spoken of by Longfellow in his poem of "The Old Clock on the Stairs." Across its antique portico, however, no shadows fall, and the house has been somewhat changed within the last few years. In the ceinetery of Lanes- borough is found the grave of the gifted Shaw, familiarly known as "Josh Billings." It was among these quiet hills that the author of "The Autocrat and rheumatism. Maplewood school, which no longer exists, was undoubtedly the "Insti- tute" of the novel, and so for these reasons Berkshire people claim the story of Elsie Venner as their especial property. Pittsfield, the center of Berk- shire county, might well be called a city of churches, possessing as it does the sanctuaries of all denominations: Lutheran, French, Colored, German, Roman Catholic, Unitarian, Methodist, Baptist, First and Second Congregational, Advent- ist and Episcopal. In fact, there is one place "in the town where there is a church on every corner, and the churches of the Congrega- tional, Baptist, Methodist and Episcopal denominations look toward the four corners of the globe. As one comes from the station in this beautiful place which never seems a city, he faces the shady park, with the soldiers' monument, looking west. The Congregational and Episcopal churches on the north side, and the court-house and Athe- neum on the south. Magnificent elms stretch far down the avenue, and shade the court-house and the park; and the gleaming white of the court-house marble contrasts with the green verdure. The stone is from the Lee quarries, where some of the finest marble in the country is cut. Next to it stands the Atheneum, a gray stone building, erected by the late Hon. Thomas Allen, containing the library lecture and reading rooms, and the museum. In the central PARK ftlltKET, HOUSATONIC UN JIAIN STREET EAST MAIN STREET hall stands the exquisitely wrought statue of Rebecca meeting Isaac, by the great sculptor, Benzoni. The veiled face is wonderfully executed and the features, even through the marble covering, are very clear, and the body is covered with the same veil-like substance. The rest of the hall is taken up with casts of famous statues. The First Congregational church fac- ing the Atheneum, is of gray granite, and the interior decoration of oak wood is very fine. Next to it is the new Episcopalchurch, St. Stephen's, built of CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH 50 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 'GUS" BARNES ET ALS. ON llIK UUU.SATOMC lilVEU Longmeadow sandstone. The win- dows in this' church are particularly fine, and are the work of Miss Tilling- hast and Tiffany in New York, Clayton and Peel of London, and of Ford and Brooks of Boston. The body of the pulpit has inserted in it three panels six hundred years old, and nearly everything in the church is given in loving memory of some dear friend. The attractive church, Trinity, in Lenox, has only been built within a few years, and the channel is especially worthy of note. There has recently been added a new rectory, built in the same style as the church. St. Paul's church, Stockbridge, is a beautiful building, with an exqui- site baptistry and Florentine chancel. Under the organ loft may be seen the famous "Singing Boys," executed in marble. Although the church is small, it is an exquisite gem, and well suits the quiet, beautiful town in which it stands. Were time and space allowed, one could extend to an almost indefi- nite length the description of this most picturesque region. But let us hope that enoughhas been said concerning "Picturesque Berkshire," to induce the unfamiliar traveler to see for himself its many beauties, and we are confident that he will go away exclaiming with the Queen of Sheba, when she went on her willing pilgrimage to King Solomon in all his glory, and gave as the verdict of her itinerary, that, " Behold, the half has not been told." Wm. Wilberforce Newton. BAILROAD OftOSSING AT HOUSATOSIC VILLAGE It is related that, in the early days of the war, a barbecue was held by the patriots upon the summit of Mount Peter, and here, after the sports of the day were over, their flag was left flying '■ Gus " Barnes was an " institution " of southern Berkshire in other days. "Gus" dwelt at Great Barrington and kept tavern there in the old Berk- shire house building, which has since been converted into a business block with stores and offices. Everybody new "Gus." In fact, not to know him was held to be a very great lack in equipment of local history. And nobody could know him without knowing that he was first, last and always a demo- crat. He voted the ticket straight, from presidential elector down to town constable, and faithfully read and fully believed the Pittsfield Sun as next to the Bible, the most important compendium of truth extant. Though the temperance people were wicked enough to declare that " Gus " was " experi- mentally " acquainted with the quality of the potations dealt out at his tavern, " to be drunk on the premises," no one can say that he ever saw " Gus " the " wuss for liquor." Still, there's a tradition on that point which " will not down." After a sojourn of two years at Chicago, he returned to Berkshire and called, of course, on Phineas Allen of the Sun, and after he had renewed his subscription to the paper and the two had " indulged in refresh- ing remembrances of the past," Barnes arose to leave. Thereupon Allen remarked, as he took the hand of his old patron and fellow democrat, " By the way, Gus, I forgot to ask you how you like the water at Chicago." To tliis came the quick response, " I vanny, Phin, I forgot to try it ! " One of the men who knew "Gus" was the late Hon. J. M. Seeley, or " Uncle Mark" Seeley, as he was affectionately and familiarly called by his Berkshire neighbors. But " Uncle Mark" was of a different makeup from " Gus." He managed a factory instead of a tavern, and was a republi- can rather than a democrat. Never having sought office he was all the more available as a candidate for the legislature, when the time came for his friends to demand that he accept a nomination. The democrats had several times elected "Hen" Wright of Great Barrington, who was so popular with "the boys" of both parties, that it was difficult for the republicans to hit upon a man to beat him. The next session of the legisla- ture would be the one for election of United States senator, and naturally the republicans wanted to win. It was the segacious Mr. Tinker of North Adams who, knowing the lay of the land, politically, all over the county, saw that " Uncle Mark " was the man to name as the " favorite in the race " against " Hen " Wright. He was entered in the lists and beat by several lengths ahead, served twice in the House and was promoted to the Senate. Sheffield, that as everybody in Berkshire knows, was for many years the home of the excellent and talented' Unitarian divine, Rev. Dr. Orville Dewey, was also the birthplace of a celebrity of another denomination, the late Bishop Edmund S. Janes of the Methodist Episcopal church, KEAK FKEicHT BFPOT. iToisATosic who, iH the exerclse of the upon the liberty pole erected for the occa- sion. During the night the Tories succeeded in cutting it down, but the flag was soon in the hands of the patriots again, who " lashed the pole, with a flag attached, to a tree top, filled the body of the tree witli iron spikes, and with prudent watchfulness kept their colors flying despite the Tories. CATHOLTC CHURCH IIOL'SATONIC^PASSENGER DEPOT PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 51 functions of his office had ^become known throughout the land, presiding as he did in the sessions of conferences from Arobstook to San Francisco. Those posted as to localities of note in southern Berkshire point the traveler to a grass- grown cellar place near the roadside where the house stood in which this divine was born. It is near the Salisbury, Ct., town line. Here at Sheffield, too, was for many years the home of that prince of polite court officers, the late Graham A. Root, who was for many years sheriff of "our county of Berkshire," and of whom it was once remarked, and that appropriately, " at his hands, on account of his politeness, k hanging would be shorn of half its terrors ! " SOME REMINISCENCES Amusing reminiscences are given of early settlers on the hills of the eastern borders of Berkshire. And among others which have " come down to us from former genera- tions," is one concerning a certain picturesque " old stager " jvho dwelt someiyhere on the heights of Becket, and who outlived his fourth wife. The funeral of the last of the four successive wives was over, and the oft-married and oft- bereaved man, accompanied by his minister, went with the cortege from the place of obsequies to the mountain "grave- yard." On the way, the minister remarked, in confidential condolence, " Brother , it is indeed a great affliction to lose a wife ; and how a man thus afflicted must need the grace of God to sustain him. And how much, surely, he must need divine help on losing a second and a third part- ner of his joys. But here you are called topartwith afourth wife! May Heaven sustain you in the unspeakable sorrow of your great bereavement ! " To this abundance and acme of tenderness came the response, " I swanny, parson, 'tis tough; aint it? Why, I'd riither hev lost my best farrow keow! " Thus much is historyV-what follows is embellish- ment, added, as the story has been repeated. It is that, on the return from the interment, the mourning man picked up near the "graveyard" a horse-shoe, and exclaimed, "Well, there's no great loss without some small gain." The wicked ones in giving this addenda make the adjectives change places so that the proverb quoted reads in their version to make the wailing widower say, between sighs, "With this small loss a greater gain." It was this same " stager" who, complaining to his neighbor that a cow from the herd of the latter had for a second time trespassed on his grounds, said, " You don't suppose that my wife and I as we sit at home of a Sunday morning readin' the Bible want to be disturbed by that air old keow-bell ! " In another neighborhood of the same town lived another of the "old stagers," who was still alive when Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, was in America. Receiving the adulation of thousands upon thousands all over the land as a supplement to the honors shown him in Europe, the great chieftain of the Magyar en route with his retinue through Massachusetts to Albany must have felt humiliated not alittle by the unseemly familiarity of the "old stager" aforesaid, who had come down to the country station of Chester to see the hero. The Hungarian traveled by the afternoon train, which in these days, made halt at the little depot at half-past one o'clock, tarrying usually for five minutes. Schoolmaster Allard, a teacher well remembered of yore in that region, sensing the importance of the event of Mr. Kossuth's journey through America, forgot for the time the drill of the school-room in which his voice, as is still remembered by his pupils, was so often heard in his arith- metical injunction of " Units under units, tens under tens," and in the morning asked the pupils to assemble at the school-house promptly at one and march to the station to see the lion of the times. There, drawn up in double file, they stood in respectful attitude by the coach of the train from which the dark-visaged Magyar of renown beamed kindly on the lads and misses, asking them questions and smiling at their ready replies. People of the village stood around in respectful attitude, or at least with curiosity that was pardonable. But this "stager" from the hills wasn't agoin' to let the occasion pass without talking face to face with the celebrity from beyond the seas ; not a bit of it. The man coming must be a good deal of a fellow because all the people were talking about him. So, judging of him as he (Continufid on page 52.) "yi country Ooy Oy t/t£ old stotie wall A POEM WITH A HISTORY When Albert Hardy, now editor of Godey^s Magazine, in New York city, was engaged in literary work in New England, he passed many of his summer months among tlie Berkshire hills — chiefly in Lenox, and in the vicinity. His home was then in Springfield, and it was his especial delight to make extended pedestrian tours among the hills, he very often walking from Springfield to Lenox and Pittsfield. It was in the summer of 1889 that Mr. Hardy wrote " Sam," the poem which follows. It was first published in the Boston Globe, and was shortly after popularized by being read by the famous elocutionist, A. P. Burbank, at Chau- tauqua. Impressed with the manliness and beauty of his young friend, Samuel E. Houston, son of Hugh Houston of West Becket, Mr. Hardy wrote the poem, which has since been incorporated in many books of verse, and which is very popular with elocutionists. This is the poem : — SAM AN IDYL OK THE BliRKSHIRE HILLS A country boy by tlie old stone wall, That keeps the meadow and road apart, Stands handsome and manly and strong and tall ; And sturdy is he as the maple tree That's by his side. For Sam is young And his honest heart is as light and free As the bird that sings in the summer slties. He loolcs far off o'er the distant hills, \^'hile a soft light shines in his hazel eyes ; And leaning there by the meadow wall, He gives this sweet, familiar call : "Co', bossi CO', boss! co,"boss!" Xow to manhood grown, and the bells sound sweet As the cows come slowly from out the wood ; And he leaves the wall and hurries to meet The mild-eyed creatures, for they all know The hand that strokes them as they pass Along the road where the daisies grow. A nd each one stands by the cowyard bars Seeming well content with the strong brown hand That milks them there 'neath the summer stars ; And Sam's eyes look love as he sings again The well-remembered, sweet refrain, "Co,' boss I CO,' boss! co,' boss ! " iH^ '"«P^.> A, ""^ '^H» ■■ And a ftping voice o'er tlie old stone wall ' 'Twas a day in June, such as poets love, There by his side a fair girl stands, And the flying clouds in the sky above Seem to play at forfeits with the sun. How well Sam knows that a lover's heart Throbs 'neath his coat, and that every one Of the clover blossoms in the field Is breathing to him an old love-song. And that every bud a joy can yield. So the maiden there by the broken wall Takes up and sings the old-time call. " Co,' boss ! CO,' boss ! co,' boss ! " Once more Sam stands by the meadow bars With his wife beside him, and her arms Enfold a dear form, whose baby prate Is sweeter to them than the brook's gay aong As it flows away at the foot of the hill. Happy they wait, for they know eie long The cows will come from the meadow side. So Sam caresses his little son, While the young wife looks with joy and pride ; And a piping voice o'er the old stone wall Just breathes in baby notes the call, " Co,' boss ! CO,' boss I co,' boss ! " ' 'Twits a day in June, such as poels love^' 52 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE would of oxen, he put on his best "hard-times " frock, as he would if he had been going out to buy the best pair of bovines on the hills. Thus clad and with his best ox whip he drove in his new cart to the village, where he halted his steers at the shed of the "store." Thence going to the station, he elbowed his way through the crowd and up to the car window, where, readjusting the quid of tobacco in his mouth, by way of emphasis, and to get a good start in the memorable remark he was to make, he said, as he looked with his mingled innocence and audacity into the face of the distinguished visitor, "Well, Mr. Kossuth, erbeout whut is yeour everidge heft? " To this impertinence the well-bred foreigner very good-naturedly replied, as he tried to hide the smile that dawned on his care-worn visage, "1 haven't been weighed very lately." The man with his new frock and best "cattle team" drove back to his farm, thinking that he had done the smart thing of the occasion. Be- fore starting from the village he had to stop, of course, at the " store ' ' and talk about it to "Lorrunce" and "Reel" Root, pat the big brindle dog "Bose," lying half asleep and half awake on the floor, and buy a fresh supply of " the weed " for himself and an extra pound of old Hyson for "the wpman," in celebration of his accomplishing the feat with which he had charged himself as he set forth on the morning, big with the possibilities of agrand achievement ! The "good old times " were spiced with operations of sharp men. And Mr. .Adams, the veteran ex-conductor of the Boston & Albany (Western) railroad, still living at Springfield, recalls one of these experiences wherein a man in partnership with Alexander Birnie, brother of the late William Birnie, undertook to rob his associate of the stock of goods which they had in a store for the supply of workmen engaged in building the railroad. This partner had, in the evening, during the absence of Mr. Birnie, made out a bill of sale of the whole stock to a Becket man who was not particularly inquisitive as to the manner of acquiring property. He gave the seller money and also a horse and sleigh, with which the latter made good his escape out of town and beyond the state limits. The next morning the purchaser appeared at the store and laid claim to the entire stock in trade. Prompt action on the part of Mr. Birnie and his clerk, Mr. Adams, soon brought a trial before a country jus- tice of the peace, at West Becket, where assembled a great crowd of the curious, and in which litigation figured such well- remembered old-time lawyers as "Squire" Filley, the rotund magnate of ancient Otis. The result was a finding for Mr. Birnie, that established his claim to the goods which had been fraudulently con- veyed, and so of course in the purchaser's losing the money he had, advanced, his horse and sleigh and the cost of the litigation. This in keeping with the rules of court proceedings in those days, in- cluded the fees of both lawyers and the pay and mileage of witnesses on both sides of the case. But Becket had other than thtese picturesque fellows. And in the congre- gations of Rev. Mr. Mills, Rev. Mr. Hyde and other ministers of the Becket church, there were many fine families. It was at Becket Centre where the father of L. B. Williams of Northampton and his brothers, H. F. and C. H. Williams, did a large business as a country merchant and was a magistrate respected by the people around him. His sons were born in that town, and there the eldest began to learn the ways of the business world. There were Wadsworths, Snows, Huntingtons, Perkinses, Clarks, Chaffees, Rudds and others who gave good account of themselves and some of whom are doing well in the world, in and out of the state, to this day. A tradition of the eastern border of the county shows the oppbsition which the projectors of the first railroads met in forwarding their enterprises. It is to the effect that a farmer by the name of Deming, through whose acres in the town of Washington, the route for the Western railroad was laid, determined to stop the i,, ' encroachment, andjfull of the consciousness of his right and power so to do, appeared on the / scene where a party of surveyors and construction men were at vyork, and declared with the emphasis of righteous indignation, " Gentlemen, I own as high as heaven and as deep as hell, and this road isn't; going through ! " TJie re- mark, which, it may be imagined caused a smile on those who heard it, was tpld by some of the work- men at the neighbor- ing farmhouses where they boarded, and of cours,e became [part of the legendary lore of the region. BTAUIIFUL BECliET — IHE VILLAGE ilvOM THE HILL, LOOKING WEST A Country Store. — Odd stories are often told of the compre- hensiveness of the stock of a country store, and much may be allowed for the stretch of imagination; but this of a store still , open, in the town of Becket, is vouched for . Two visitors to the village made a bet, upon the statement of one of them,' that the other could not name anything of merchantable nature which could not be found at that store. The doubter rather stretched his bounds ^hen he named a church pulpit as the article which he did not believe could be found in the place. The other man's faith is said to have been somewhat shaken when this unusual article of merchandise was named by his friend, but he bravely stood by his bet, and both men walked down to the village store and at once informed the gray and grizzled proprietor what they called for. " Yes, yes, I've got one," he said, to the delight of one man and the amazement of the other. Then he led the way to a back room and showed them a church pulpit which had but recently been taken out from a Baptist church in the town preparatory to the tearing down of the edifice. NOVEMBER ' ' When is November ? " When skies are graji, with scarce a fleck of blue, When sharp winds blow which pierce you through and through ; When bird-songs cease, and empty nests hang high, When butterflies and flowers have said good-by ; When silver frost-work gleams on field and hill. When hearth-fires flame and glow, as nights wax chill; When dead leaves drift through lonely forest ways, When comes the glad New England day of days ; Then is November. Emma C Dowd. THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE STKI^ET Wisdom's self Oft seeks so sweet retired solitude ; Where with her best nurse. Contemplation, She plumes her feathers and lets grow her wingsi That in the various bustle of Resort Were all too ruffled, and sometimes impaired. Milton- PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 53 THE CLAFLIN HOUS£ reached, a glimpse is afforded of a few farm- houses in the little valley on the left (the murderer Coy lived off there, just by the little Methodist meeting- house), but little hint is given of the beautiful country beyond, as the train rolls over the ridge, and the barren- ness of the scenery would discourage one from investigating far- ther, did he not know that the " Promised Land " was not far away, and the pictur- esque little village of Hinsdale and the fair- ly beautiful town of Dalton lies ter- raced on the hills and in the valley, but a little further on. Yet Washington — bleak Washing- ton — bleak hill-top that it is, is not by any means devoid of picturesque in- terest in itself. It is 1,700 feet above the ocean level, and, therefore, about OLD TAVEBN SIGKS THE JIIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY Washington, Lee, Becket and Tyringham The town of Washington, on the Boston & Albany railroad, in this county, should not be confounded with the town of Mount Washing- ton in the southwest part of this county, for they WATSIDE REFRESHMENT have some historic interest. Washington has an interesting history, too, and has furnished the business and the political world with those who have made their mark. Notable among these was the late ex-Governor Edwin D. Morgan, war governor of Ne.v York, and United States senator, and whose father was ' the well-known " Squire " Morgan, old-time magistrate of the town. Sad it is to see that the old meeting-house on the hill has gone to ruins — that the sanctuary fragrant with the memory of such earnest preachers as the Rev. Moses M. Longley and others like him, and of such good people as the Morgans, the Blakes, the Abbotts, the Pomeroys and others, should be left to tumble to pieces. Becket Becket, too, is on the Boston & Albany railroad, and is one of the few ideal pure country places in the county, without a cultivated landscape, but attractive because of its natural simplicity. Our artist appropriately calls it " Beautiful Becket." The elevation of the town is 1,200 feet, the air is clear and cool in summer, and the scenery close by the village is wild and romantic in many places. There are three villages in the town, but North Becket, where the depot and hotel (the Claflin house) are located, is the business; part of the town. The hotel, kept by Landlord Schlesinger, is a favorite stopping-place with- Hampden county people, as well as others, and was named after ex-Gov. William Claflin, who originally &iL£AT BtUKtT 700 feet higher than Mount Washington, and there are some very fine views on the west slope, over- looking Pittsfield, and near the Congregational church. Ashley lake, Pittsfield's source of water supply, lies here, and is a mile long. Oc- tober mountain is in this town; the outlook here is charming, and in the fall months the foliage effects are magnificent. Roar- ing brook, which has its source near the base of the mountain, is a pretty stream running through Tory Glen, a place said to are very different places. Our pictures give some idea of the views which met our artist when he entered this part of the Berkshire, yet it should not be understood that the town of Washington is utterly unworthy of its great patronymic. Here the Boston & Albany railroad enters the small village, clustered about the little raikoad station, through a deep rock cut, at about the highest point on the road. Coming from Springfield, by rail, the traveler has been steadily ascending, and the iron horse snorts and pants before he enters the rocky rail gateway into the charming Berkshire lands. In the last half-mile before that place is A WATSIDE HOME TOO LAZY TO FISH 54 PICTURESQUK BIlRK SHIRE occupied the place for a summer residence. The drives are interesting all about, and the tally-ho frequently finds its way here. Mountain scenery of much variety and grandeur is to be seen here. Becket mountain is but two and a half miles from the depot, and is 2,200 feet high, It is easily reached and at its base is located the reservoir of Bulkley, Dunton & Co. Wadsworth mountain, three miles south of North Becket, is 200 feet lower, but from its summit the steeples of eight churches can be counted. Benton mountain also gives a good view; it is 1,800 feet high, and only half a mile from the depot. For THE SHADED BUOOK a good view of the village, one need only ascend .the little hill and the highway just to the east of the railroad crossing, where he will behold our artist's " Beautiful Becket." Yokun and Centre lakes are pretty sheets of water near the depot village, and there are others in other directions, but less easy of access. Within the past few years the residence portion of the village near the depot has been much improved, and its convenience of access will continue to make it popular for; Connecticut valley people, over some other parts of the county. Lee The drive from Becket to Lee is about five miles, up hill and down, and gives one many a glimpse of what back coun- try farm life is, on the exterior, and when one drives into Lee Itself he is agreeably surprised at the bustle and energy evident in the place. It is not a large town, but is the smartest in the county, reckoned by its size. Here are large marble quarries and paper mills, and the first paper pulp made in this country had its origin here. Marble went from Lee for a large part of St. Patrick's cathedral. New York, Girard brought this last sen- tence to a close, we unexpectedly found close corroboration of our judgment: Prof. Gildersleeve of Johns Hopkins University says, " This is the only place I was ever in where I could walk all day and find a new and charming view every five minutes." Our artist's pictures in this charming town also give plentiful hints of what is to be found here. The old-time Shak- er interest of the town is referred to else- where, and need not be alluded to here, except as Mount "Horeb'' is related thereto, j This place was selected by the Shakers for their "spiritual commun- ion '' place in 1844, and the prospect from this point is magnificent. At the summit of this mountain the Shakers cleared a small piece of ground and built a fence around it, an in- ner fence around the " spiritual fount," and erected a marble monument, with an engraved message purporting to be from . God himself, warning all to keep sacred the grounds and never desecrate them. The Shakers held services there for several years, and finally discontinued them of course when the organization broke up, after which the monument was broken, carried away piecemeal, for relics, by strangers. TIIL KaVINE 0OKGEE6AXIOSAL CHUHCH THE DLD GUISTMILL college^ two wings of the capitol at Wash- ington, and many other handsome build- ings, and at on€ time Lee paper manufac- turers furnished the largest part of the paper used by the great New York dailies. "Highlawn," the "home of the brood mares," was famous the country over for its fine horses. Here the famous "Alcyone" and "Alcantara " stallions were raised and petted. At one time there was )fi5o,ooo worth of horseflesh here', and it was probably the most costly establishment of the kind in the country. The picturesque features of the town are so comprehen- sively treated of elsewhere, in an article from the pen of Rev. L. S. Rowland of Lee, that we are obliged, on account of restricted space, to "cut short" the record of the extremely pleasant impres- sions of our jaunt through this part of the county. Tyringham One of the most delightful of country drives is that from Lee to Tyringham, and once within the limits of this latter, quaint, small town, one sees new scenes of beauty unfolding every hour, providing, always, of course, he keeps moving and has his eyes open. Turning to a well- known authority on Berkshire, as we TH£ BAPTIST CHCBCH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 55 Nothing is now left, and the whole Shaker property passed into other hands. Among other interesting matters in this town is the geological collection of Daniel Clark at his residence in the southwest part of the place. Tyringham is not a railroad town, but it is easily reached by carriage from Lee, and the people are entertaining a yearly in- creasing host of summer visitors. Thost who once come here generally appear at least a second season if they can. ] WHAT THE FARMER READS ^^^t^ WAMIINGTI The Lee Powder Mill. — Besides the flood disaster in East Lee, pictured in these pages, the town of Lee has been noted for other shocking calamities. In September, 1824, a scene of most appalling desolation was'exhibited in this town. It was the explosion of an extensive powder factory, owned by Messrs. Laflin, Loomis & Co. At the time it was estimated that there were about five tons of powder in the different buildings. On a very pleasant morning, when the Work- men thought all things were going securely, in a moment every building was razed from its foundations with a tremendous explosion. Three of the unfortunate workmen were instantly killed, and a fourth, who was thrown into the river, lingered for a short time, till death relieved him. Every house in the neighborhood was more or less injured, and every breast was shocked. Such was the consternation produced in the minds of the inhabitants that they univer- sally protested against the ' rebuilding, and the feelings the dksertki> om-RCH The dusk of winter's eve falls early in New England's hills, and no gaslights illumine the snowdrifts. The farmer's cheery abode shows but dimly against the murky sky, save where the bright rays of a lamp project from an uncurtained window, and make a broad pathway of light across the snow. Perhaps by the aid of that light, one can see the snowflakes falling silently, or j a misty rain, or perhaps its brightness is _„„T- ■"" ' paled by the winter moon which slowly &.\'^_ f, -.' .%'«;.- '^t''--. I emerges from some low-lying clouds in the east and makes a glittering fairy-land ''■ '''•■''TBK q£ ^]j qjji- pf doors. If we look in that lighted window we see the farmer's family gathered around a bright and glowing fire. Theirs is the " abode of comfort but not of luxury." A rag carpet covers the floor. The walls are papered in bright and glowing tints and a few chromos, no less bright and glowing, are hung around the room. There is an organ in the position of honor, an old-fashioned desk and clock and plenty of rocking-chairs. In front of the large stove, capable of holding an immense '' chunk," a table is drawn, and on it is placed a large lamp. By the light of that lamp the farmer alternately reads and dozes, as he sits in his particular rocking-chair, his stockinged feet toasting on the fender. He is tired ; his day's work has led him to the ice pond or the wood lot or to the distant mills in the valley, and after the discomfort of the day, this is elysium. Mistress Farmer sits on the opposite side of the fire and briskly stitches or knits on the endless succession of stockings, or chops the corn-beef hash for to-morrow's breakfast. And the farmer's daughter ? Perhaps she is busy with the latest pattern in crochet, or with deft and nimble fingers she apes the styles of the city, and "fixes over" her second best woolen dress. Perhaps, her ambition is to graduate from the Normal school, and she is studying Latin with the minister of the village church, and so takes this quiet time to con the next day's lesson. >IETH0D1ST CEVllCiT THE HIGHWAY OVER THE IIAILKOAD of the proprietors coinciding, the site and water privilege were soon after sold, and an extensive paper mill erected. Thrice happy hfe! who on the sunless side Of a romantic mountain, forest crowned, Beneath the whole collected shade reclines ; Or in the gelid caverns, wood- bine wrought, And fresh bedew'd with ever spouting streams. Sits coolly calm, while all the world without, Unsatisfy'd and sick, tosses at noon. Emblem instructive of the vir- tuous man, Who keeps his tempered mind serene and pure, And every passion aptly har- moniz'd. Amid a jarring world with vice inflam'd. ^^^_^_^ Thomson, SlLlsar WALLS AS EXPRESSIVE SEBMON 56 She probably has a novel laid away on the top of the organ, waiting until that quiet hour after she is in bed, when she can read a little before the light is blown out. The boys are in another corner, and have a huge bowl of Baldwins and Greenings, which they busily munch while hands and brains are occupied with a game of cards or dominoes. Later they will read in the Youth's Companion or some favorite book of ad- venture until the tall clock in the corner gives nine sonorous strokes — the bedtime signal for the boys. These long winter evenings become the reading harvest of the farmer, and so also are the long, lazy Sunday afternoons when the family are home from church. All the week-day pastimes and occupations are then laid aside. No dinner is provided, but all take their turn in helping themselves to "a snack" from the pantry shelf. In summer under a shady tree, and in winter around the fire, they rest and read the papers. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE MORNING SOUNDS But who the melodies of morn can tell ? — The wild brook, babbling down the mountain side ; The lowing herd, the sheepfold's simple bell ; The pipe of early shepherd, dim descried In the lone valley ; echoing far and wide The clamorous horn the cliffs above ; The hollow murmur of the ocean tide ; The hum of bees, the linnet's lay of love, And the full choir that wakes the universal grove. The cottage curs at early pilgrim bark ; Crowned with her pail the tripping milkmaid sings ; The whistling ploughman stalks afield ; and, hark ! Down the rough slope the ponderous wagon rings ; Through rustling corn the hare astonished springs ; Slow tolls the village clock the drowsy hour; The partridge bursts away, on whirring wings ; Deep mourns the turtle in sequestered bower, And shrill lark carols from her aerial tower. Barnes Beattie. ship of ten. The annual tax was afterwards increased to fifty cents, and later reduced to twenty-five cents, at which sum it still remains. The library consisted of thirty volumes in 1825, principally historical and religious works; for ex- ample, " Stillman's Travels," " Watts on the Mind," "Baxter's Call," " Cowper's Poems," "Edward's Affection," etc., and not a work of fiction among the original thirty! Additions have been made nearly every year, and although books have been sold at several times the library now consists of two hundred and eighty-seven volumes. The largest number of members was twenty-three, in the seventies, but at present only fourteen persons are entitled to draw books from its shelves. It has been kept at the home of one of the members for twenty years and before that was lodged in the house of one Samuel IJawes for forty-eight years. People took more care of books then, I think, than they do no\y. The following is copied from the records :— EARLY MORHINQ a few stray books, or study the Sunday-school lesson, until the gloaming the strains of the organ are heard and the daughter of the house plays simple hymns. Her sweet voice leads mother and the boys in song, while father listens with pride, and thinks that little organ a good investment, and his girl the best and prettiest and the smartest in all the country round. The farmer reads first and foremost the ■ county paper ; after that what takes his attention will depend on the bent of the individual. If all his interests are purely agricultural, the Homestead, Farm and Fire- side or some other of the numerous papers of that class becomes a weekly visitor. Another person who has more interest in politics and very possibly is a " prohibition " crank or takes delight in the cognomen of " mugwump " will take a daily. A third type is the deacon of the church or the Sabbath-school superin- tendent. Such take the Congregationalist or the Watchman, and the Home Missionary. Of books, the history of his county or town, and the annals of the war interest the farmer most. But few take time for books. Those who do, choose Edward Eggleston or J. T. Trowbridge, and may find themselves enthralled in the machinations of Rider Haggard. Sometimes a little circulating library is in existence and in this the farmer and his family find books and readings I know of one such organized as long ago as 1825, in one of the most rugged, barren and bleak localities of the Berkshire hills. Themselves living on wind- swept, rolling heights, the inhabitants see in the dis- tance the dim, blue cone of Greylock with a faint spiral of smoke rising from Hoosac mountain at its base. On the other side Remington hill stands guard, its summit crowned with rugged evergreens. This particular library was organized, according to the constitution adopted April 15th, 1826, "for the promotion of general knowledge." Any one might become a member on payment of one dollar and an annual fee of fifteen cents. It started with a member- FINES For grease on one book. . 2CtS For blood on cover, . . I " For ink on one book, • 4. " Corner of cover broken, . 2 " Grease on one book. . 2 " " " " " . . I " The farmer's wife, if her husband recognizes her need for literature, usually subscribes for 7%^ Ladies'' Home Journal, The Home Magazine, or some other periodical of that class, or for a paper that devotes a corner to crochet work and another to flowers or fash- ions, while the Sabbath-school libraries purvey the more mild and rather vacuous volumes of Pansy and the exciting tales of E. P. Roe. These generally are all that the woman's busy cares allow time for her to read. The growing sons and daughters of the farmer are either not allowed novels at all, as being injurious, or are permitted to roam at will through any evil-smelling, (Continued on page 59.) PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 57 AMID THE WILD FLOWERS BY MRS. D. H. R. GOODALE Everybody admits that there is a kind of intimate charm about the Berlvshire hills; a nameless fascination, which binds the beholder and invites, not mere cold admiration, but positive lovp. Throiis;hrnit this whole region the distinguishing character of the scenery com- bines a noble, natural beauty with a softness in the near views and a restful, almost human loveliness, peculiarly winning. Even the casual tourist returns to review his happiness and ends with leaving a bit of his heart behind. Yet surely these lovely hills and valleys would miss much of their endearing attractiveness without the in- exhaustible grace and delicacy of that lavish succession of native wild flowers in which they are clothed. At cer- tain seasons there are certain flowers in apparent posses- sion of the entire landscape. No gardening of man's design can vie with a whole mountain-side of one burst of laurel, or with miles upon miles of massive golden-rod. That lowly carpet which creeps over unnumbered acres, scarcely noticed in the mingled woodland greenery, under the prescient power of April's sun, springs suddenly into rare perfume and ethereal color, filling the woods on every side with the sweet breath of trailing artutus. This is the Puritan's mayflower, inimitable in its exquisite and tender loveliness, the very aroma and blush of spring. But in the calendar of the flowers " every day is the best in the year." Each one, as it appears, is itself the flower of time; each is a vivid impersonation of beauty, the vital overflow and positive expression of that maternal energy of the earth which keeps alive mankind and silently sustains all her manifold races, whether of bird or bee, or tree or flower. Mysterious power! What is itthat brings to birth these frail, aerial children of the soil ? They lift their heads to commune with man of something in his deeper nature, to whisper mysteries of the high destinies of an aspiring soul. Too weak a race for hard utility, with what an irresistible power they plead for beauty ! Surely they are the expression of something divine which we cannot wholly fathom. In truth the lightest wayside blossom can set us dreaming of a freedom from limita- tions, an intensity and purity of life above and beyond all the inevitable struggles and imperfections of the mortal lot. Even in a severe climate — and Berkshire has her moods of terrible austerity — the season of wild flowers is a long one, longer than we are apt to realize. It lasls from March to November and even the three intervening months are not absolutely flowerless. The wandering witch-hazel, with its twisted ray -flowers of pure, pale gold, holds these treasures firmly; in sheltered coverts they may be found far into the winter. It has happened, in- deed, that the enterprising foot-traveler has discovered them in February, and classed the witch-hazel, therefore, as the earliest flowering shrub of spring. That richly mottled arum, the sy?nplocarpits, less prized for its dark beauty and its hardy vigor than ignored because of its bad ■ name (in the vernacular, skunk cabbage) and its undesir- able odor, occasionally shows its strong spathe in warm "WILD ROSE DAIiilKS AND GUAfeSI^S hollows, in February, and comes in March quite as a matter of course. These are extremes that sometimes meet. Before the trailing arbutus appears — usually early in April, though in a favorable season it may open its long- nurtured buds in March — it is not unusual to find a few firstlings of the year. The early yellow violet — Bryant's violet — shows its cheerful head on moist banks sloping to the sun. The coltsfoot, like tiny, stemless dandelion.<, spangles with gold the sandy brookside. Here the wei- shod alder is hanging out her catkins of rich maroon to rival the quick-springing pussy willows. With red maple in bloom to hang high the floral banner, the season of efflorescence is fairly begun. A whole sisterhood of modest beauties come hurrying after, all retiring in their nature, yet each made to give a pure delight. In rich, sheltered woods we find the cluster- ing hepaticas with faint, changeful color, varying from a blue white to a warm pinkish-purple. There is something infantile in its exquisite fragility and innocent fairness, nestling among its downy leaves. In the same woods the light anemone, pure white or touched with rose, nods on its slender stalk with every breath of wind. The graceful adder's-tongue lily loves the water couises, and in moist WILD LILV OF THE VALLEY places dense colonies outspread, with thou- sands of yellow, drooping heads above the handsome, parti-colored leafage. More rare, and worthy of long pursuit, is the shy trillium, with its unexpected beauty audits strange, faint scent of the sea. The pointed trillium, white with crimson stains, is more rare than the dark maroon, not un- common along many ravines and mountain streamlets. As the season advances, the hurrying violets turn the very meadows to a purplish cloud of bloom with their abundance. The fortunate pedestrian finds the spring beauty beside his path a dainty nosegay on a single stem. Or at length, as he comes out upon a sunny opening, behold! a dense colony of new leaves, each sheathing as in a half-closed hand the stem that uplifts the brilliant flower of the bloodroot, with its splendid whiteness, and the full perfection of its cupped, yet starry form. In the woods the shad-blow is white enough to draw the eye from afar. It is a beautiful little tree at this season, wreathed as it is in dazzling white flowers, while the delicate leaves are pricking in mere points, and attractive again in June when its pleasant carmine fruit (the bilberry) is ripe. It finds a place in good catalogues of ornamental shrubbery and lawn trees, and in one of the best of these it has this mention: "On* of BELLEWOllT the finest very early flowering trees ; not appreciated as it should be." With the advent of June, or oftener late in May, when the apple blossoms are falling, and just at that fair, fragrant crisis of the year when all life seems pausing on the 58 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE l--u^. J -.;^ » " i^ - ^ "^m' :>''^-l^B ■a*-^ FOND LILIES threshold of a new perfection, the deeper wave of summer heat and fullness floods the woods and hill pastures of Berkshire with a new vitality. Spring is over. The long weeks of delay and hesitation are past. The time of tender hopes, of eager expectation, has brought us, with many a coy denial, to the hour of surrender. Summer is at the door. Richer color, fuller fra- grance, more various and riper beauty in the flowers of field and meadow attend the culmination of the genial year. The shy, elusive flowers of early spring, with their lovely, silent grace that shrinks from too bold a gaze, evanescent in their best estate, have had their brief day and passed from sight. The roses and lilies of summer, the field flowers that deck every meadow, and the sturdy wayfarers that take their ease upon the roadsides, are a more robust and cheerful race. They love the sun and shrink from no less powerful eye. The saucy columbine, all red and gold, still nods along the rocky pastures. The exquisite hairbell, more enduring, more secure in our hearts, holds these rough hill sides also, and will keep her light foothold there till harsh November comes to chill her with his nipping frosts. In lush bottoms the purple wild geranium and the feathery meadow rue stand knee-deep in tasseled grasses. In the fertile meadows the oxeye daisy and the bold buttercup — merry vagrants that they are — mingle with clover, white and red, to make every farm gay in despite of the farmer. The cone flower or gypsy daisy, a native of the Western states, has become so thoroughly at home here that its rich, brunette colors everywhere deepen the effect of these pictur- esque culprits. In old fields and pastures the eglantine and sweetbrier are sheeted with their rosy bloom. Our beautiful native lilies, the magi- cally graceful cana- densis, a whole can- delabra of drooping bells upon one stem, those flaring bells that tremble and sway with the deep, swaying meadow grasses ; and the vestal wood lily, whose chaste chalice turns ever toward the sky, now thrill our hearts once more. 'Twere vain to attempt to include here the in- numerable dwellers WILD AZALEA by field and forest. Their innocent tribes gather on every hillside; they haunt the meadows, the fields, the banks of every stream; the quiet roadsides run over with the spreading families that silently possess and inhabit every inch of territory that man yields. Some are more conspicuous f oi: brilliance of color or, elegance of form ; others more retiring; but each has its own secret, its own voice. Each fills its little part in the wondrous harmony of nature. The crowd of inconspicuous flowers of summer, many of which are individually unimportant and hardly recognized, give in the mass that cheering and enlivening sense of the beauty and prodigality of earth which makes sum- mer a time of joy. Every thoughtful lover of flowers, who has studied them in their hidden haunts, WILD COLDMBIKE knows how much their effect depends upon an appropriate setting. A nook in the deep forest, a sudden turn of the brown, babbling brook, a solitary ravine, where ferns and mosses grow thick and lush and the sun peeps in only at high noontide, each of these shares something of its own spjrit with the flower that blossoms there. Who has not had the experience of finding some rarely beautiful or impressive flower, growing in its own perfectly adapted habits, which, pluck- ed and carried home in triumph, gave at last a sense of disappointment ? Forced into an incongruous place and environment, robbed, perhaps, of its admirably contrasting foliage, its first freshness irreparably lost, that exquisite perfection which was its finest charm has too often disappeared. Was it, we involuntarily ask, so stately, so commanding in its pure loveliness as we imagined in the excitement of discovery ? Ah, yes ! that vivid and suggestive grace was wholly real, yet it was also a part of the scene. You cannot carry away with you that world of magic in which it grew. We have to admit, with Emerson, that for the perfect enjoyment of the world of nature, we find " Too strait and low our cottage doors, And all unmeet our carpet floors." Wordsworth declares " 'Tis my faith that every flower Enjoys the air it breathes.' The budding twigs spread out their fan , To catch the breezy air And I must think, do all I can, That there was pleasure there." And Shelley beckons ,* " To the silent wilderness Where the soul need not repress Its music, lest it should not #nd An echo in another's mind." True poets and nature lovers are at one in this; they realize that something: must be fore, gone if we would have the best of that which tree and rock and AHEMONE flower can bestow. We must manage to shed that crust of formality and self-interest which comes of contact with a worldly world, and approach the world of divine power and beauty in a sincere and -childlike spirit, ready to be happy. To name all the birds " without a gun," to love the wild flowers and leave them growing, is not a matter of exaggerated sentiment, but matter of reverence for a real truth. It is in the fullness of their own life and not when forcibly detached from it and brought by violence into closer contact with ours, that we can learn of them most. The showy lady's slipper is one of those flowers that belong preeminently to the spot in which it appears. Lonely though it may be, as concerns human affairs, we do not feel that the beautiful wonder is "wasted on the earth and sky," but gladly confess that in this case, as in that of the rhodora, ■' Beauty is its own excuse for being." It is called "the most regal of our orchids," by one who has made a special study of the class, and he adds that coming upon it suddenly for the first time in a low, wet wood, he was " as much startled as though a gaudy cockatoo had fluttered by." While it resembles the better known pink lady's slipper, or moccasin flower of the woods, its striking color — a rich rose purple conspicuously mingled with white— is much more effective. There wild lily PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 59 '.leaven, and with silent fortitude awaits the bitter frosts and rough storms of early winter. Still exquisite in that rare depth of purity of color, blue as if " Heaven let fall a flower from her cerulean wall," she stands firm even in crisp November, when snowflakes are flying, a witness to the silent power of aspiration which no earthly ill can subdue. WHAT THE FARMER READS THE OLD BRIDGE AT LEE is a tropical appearance in the whole plant, the robust foliage and the rare size, color and form of the flowers which are commonly grouped in a vivid mass, all strangely exceeding the modest sobri- ety of our Puritan flora. The smaller yellow lady's slipper, nowhere common so far as I know, is not very uncommon in parts of Berkshire county, and a goodly number of native orchids, many of which produce flowers of exquisite beauty and refinement, will reward the patient search of the trained flower hunter. Several of these will be found on the margins of ponds, where the quaint pitcher plant also abounds. Of flowers that give character to the whole view or express an entire phase of the flower-life of the season, none exceed in tender sig- nificance the characteristic flowers of autumn. Along the mountain roadside, on the borders of the woods in every neglected pasture or hill-slope the delicate asters cluster, white or purple or lavender of every varying depth of tint, while the golden-rod stands thick with honeyed richness, a type of every solid good. These gifts of the floral year, as it draws to its inevitable close, lend themselves (Continued from page S6) fifth-rate literature which may fall in their path. The person who can do most to raise the standard of culture among the rural population of the small hill towns is the librarian. A lady once filled this post for a few weeks in a small country town of eight hundred inhabitants. During the one day of the week on which the library was open, an average of fifteen or twenty books was taken out. Two-thirds of the patrons were girls from eight to fifteen years of age. The younger ones disdained to draw books from the juvenile department, with the exception of Miss Alcott's works, which were always in great demand. The remainder they designated as "Trundle-bed trash," and scorned them accordingly. They all had a penchant for novels and were dipping at will into the "Red Hair and Thunder Storms" of Mary J. Holmes, as one sarcastic young man expressed it, or Augusta Evans, Mrs. Forrester and others of their kind. One day the lady ventured to substitute Mrs. Wig- gin's "A Summer in a Canon,'' for a very trashy novel which one young girl of thirteenhad askedfor. The next week the same damsel came again, Saying that " she liked that one very much indeed," and "please would she select her another," and all her mates wanted the book in their turn, "and please would she find them one, too ? " After this as long as the lady acted as librarian she selected the books for all of them. Besides the children, the library was patronized by a maiden lady who wanted books on geology, by the Baptist minister and his wife and by a few students on their vacation visits to the town. Almost every country town has its public library. Some are free; others require the payment of a small quarterly fee. The methods by which the books are selected are various. The committee which have the matter in charge send to publishers for lists, and pick the books out by guess ; or they see them advertised in papers and order by mail; or when some one of the committee visits a city or large town, that one goes into the bookstores and makes purchases. One family who lived six miles away upon the distant hills sent for and returned their books regularly every Saturday, always tying them up with the same stout string riCTURESQUENESS IN BACK YARDS AT LEE VIEW FRUAl 'iUK IKUN BRIDGE ■^*^ most kindly to the uses of man. They are more submissive than the flowers of spring and summer, they do not elude our skill when we bend them to our own ends and avail ourselves of their plentiful wealth for purposes of decoration. But the lovely fringed gentian, an equal favorite and in some of the more remote hill towns, almost equally profuse in bloom, has something of the sun in her composition. A profound intensity is joined with a perfect serenity in her calm regard, securely rooted in earth, she turns her face immovably toward A TURN INTO THE PASTURES OR DOWN THE IIILL 6o PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 7Z^ THE BUSINESS CENTER AT LEK COK^KU OF MAIN AM». l-AKK SXKEETS with a knot on each end that had been used in that capacity for years. Yet another class of reading finds its way into town. Stray summer boarders, visitors, or friends in the city bring or send quantities of the Seaside, Lovell or Franklin Square libraries, and not the best of these series either. The Duchess finds more readers on New England hills to-day than Dickens or Thackeray. Still, if the children of the farmer had some one to guide them and sift the grains of wheat from the chaff of poor books and tell them what to read, the taste for good reading would be much more developed, for they are willing to ^LAK mil. lS DAVIS HOTEL AT SOUTH LEE Hyde of Lee, and she not only maintained the dignified standing of her own family, but was one of the noblest of women. There are many prominent names in Sandisfield. Here came the Sages of Revolutionary story ; the Twinings AS OLD TREE BKUTIIEHLY PRIDE A VILLAGE SCHOOL-nOUSE Farther on is New Boston West and here is the town hall. Along this stream are the ruins of the once prosperous Hull tanneries, which show that years ago an immense business must have been done in that line. They are now silent and deserted and are fast going to decay. Still farther on is New Boston East. This is the business center of the town of Sandisfield. It is on the Farmington, and at one time had quite large prospects of business when a railway was proposed through that section. Here is the only hotel in town — Hunt's — and it is an old-time, old-fashioned hospi- table country inn. Hunt's is famous are an old Sandisfield family ; the Smiths, who came from Cape Cod to locate in the mountain town of Sandisfield; the Merrills, of whom Samuel was the pio- neer, have lived here for many years, and James H., a descend- ant of that name and a merchant at Mont- ville, is almost the last of the old-time Yankee peddler. Our artist has caught him as he is plying his trade among some of the honest country people along his route. Other THE DAM AT SOUTH LEE I .^- ■r^ names are the Demmings, Strattons, Claflins, North- ways, Sacketts, Fargos, Manleys, Wilcoxes, and, in fact, many others. The village of Sandisfield town is on the hill-tbp and near New Marlboro line. Here is the old church, f first organized in 1756, and its present church building " was erected in 1852. It is seldom used now, as the population, which in other days made that section of Sandisfield capable of giving a membership of some 300 souls to it, is now passing away. But the old vil- lage green is there, and the white spire of the church is a prominent figure from any of the hill-tops for miles around as it glimmers in the sunlight. Mont- ville is a little hamlet lying in a valley, upon the east side of which is the high ridge which separates that section of Sandisfield from the other valley through which the Farmington flows. Montville has the Baptist church, erected there several years ago. The Clam river furnishes power for some small industries, like rakes and turning, and a few years ago one man did a very prosperous business in making keelers, or little tubs in which infants were bathed. Here for many years lived George Shepard, who for a generation was the faithful town clerk and the oracle of the Sandisfield history. THE VILLAGE SMITHY SOUTH LEE WATER POWER lllVEKSIDE READING-ROOM 66 HOJIAK CATHOLIC CHCKCH, £0TJ'1H LEE the county over for its honest, Yankee hospitality. Sandisfield met a heavy blow a few years ago. The Lee & New Haven railway was surveyed through Sandisfield on the east side of the Farmington river. Just as the rails were' about to be laid, the scheme failed, the road was bank- rupt, and Sandisfield, in common with Otis and some other towns, drank deeply of a bitter disap- pointment. The town had been bonded in a large amount to aid the road which never came. Some day the iron horse will find its way through this valley. The town paid its interest and maintained its credit, until finally Massachusetts redeemed herself, reimbursed San- disfield, and the. bonds which had been such a burden were publicly burned with great jollification on the village green near the Congrega- tional church at New Boston East. Latterly Sandisfield is becoming PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE due regard for other Berkshire towns, Sandisfield has a variety of beautiful things in nature to attract the visitor. There are many in Berkshire, especially in Northern Berkshire, who will see in Picturesque Berkshire for the first time by photograph the many handsome things which Sandisfield, isolated twenty miles from railway and but little known, has to offer. New Marlboro In many respects New Marlboro is one of the finest old towns in Berkshire, the finest old county in Massa- chusetts. It lies away above the Housatonic valley, and the drive thereto from the lower grounds, like Great Barrington or Sheffield, is practically a continuous up- hill. It is in the southern part of the county and its southern border touches the state of Connecticut. Its history runs back to 1735, and it has had an honorable career ever since. It probably takes its name from .Marlboro, Middlesex county in this state, although OLD GllAVJSSTOSES AT SOUTH LEE A HAPPY FAMILY some claim that it originally traces its title to Lord Marlboro of Eng- land. The town is watered by numerous brooks and lakes and its surface is generally uneven and hilly, and this, like many other Berkshire towns, is what gives it such great facilities for handsome views. The Green mountain range has gradually lost itself before it reaches New Marlboro, and the town is divided from Great Bar- rington and Sheffield by the high ridge or mountain range which is ^. east of Great Barrington and Shef- P^ field plain. For this reason New ,L> Marlboro has a valley which is y peculiarly its own, lying along the Konkapot river. This stream rises in Monterey at Lake Garfield and flows southerly to the Housa- tonic somewhere near Canaan. This valley is one of the most peaceful and quiet in all Berkshire. Unlike any other in Berkshire, there are broad meadows on each side and the rolling lands run back on the hillsides forming the divid- ing line of Sheffield on the west to the summit at New Marlboro town. It is nearly an agricultural town. Some years ago, the village of New Marlboro on the Konka- pot and now the seat of town government, having the town hall and other offices, was one of the busiest of Berkshire villages of its size. Paper mills lined its banks, producing both fine and coarse papers, and there were other industries which made it very active. Fire and financial disaster have completely put an end to all this business. The Carroll mills just below the village, which twenty years ago were very thrifty, have been burned. The fine mills further up the stream are also silent. It is a pretty little village and was the center of much trade. Mr. Sisson, Mr. Stannard and some others have tried for several years for a branch railroad from Connecticut, and it is probable that ere long this will be accomplished. Lake Buel is one of the handsomest sheets of water in Berkshire, and snugly nestled under the hillside, and at its north end is the pretty little village of FERNCLIFF SCHOOL LENOX CKEAUEKY somewhat prominent as a summer resort and some city gentle- men have recently purchased farms in the town. A Chicago artist was the pioneer, and away on the San- disfield heights to- ward South Sandisfield he has built a cottage, and here he entertains a number of artists and literary people in summertime. With all FEUNCLIFF AVENUE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 67 ! ^^:i''**^- |&\ . ^^ffi^ffl^^i^" IIIIIMIHI ^^^^^If UNION ROCK, LK£ TRYSTING PLACE, FERNCHFP Hartsville. Some fine farms lie along the way and there is evidence of prosperity on every hand, although gradually the town, as has been said before, is somewhat depopulated and running back- ward. The long-prayed-for railway from Canaan up through this valley on to the northward, and possibly to Westfield, which may come some day, would give this locality a boom and a prominence of importance. We cannot stop in this brief article to discuss the industries which from time to time have flourished in this good old town. Within its borders have been made whips at Southfield, laces for corsets and shoes, paper and various other in- dustries. New Marlboro town is away on the hill- top, and from its little park or from the high ground in the vicinity, is a regular kaleido- scope of views in all directions. In the years agone it was prominent as an educational center, and the South Berkshire Institute, a roomy and well-construct- ed school building, is now vacant. A few years ago, by reason of imperfect drainage, a wasting fever broke out, some deaths oc- among the PETER'S CAVE, FERNCLIFF ON THE TTRINGHAM RuAl> UAKINO BUTTER AT THE LENOX CREAMERY ON FERNCLIFF 68 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE HOTISATONIC boys sent there, and that, added to the other drawbacks, settled the fate of the South Berkshire Institute. For a few years it was maintained as a summer resort, but now it is idle. It is one of the sightly objects and places of in- terest in the town. Our artist has given us a number of views from New Marlboro and these speak for them- selves. In the village is the famous Bloodgood stock farm which has brought the town into great prominence in that direction. Many summer peo- ple come here for their recreation and vacation and to enjoy the drives, the NEAR THE MACHINE SHOP AT EAST LEE IN THE PATH Of THE FLOOD AT EAST LEE IlELOW THE UAM AT EAST LEE MAIN STHEET, EAST LEE ELOOD KUIMS NEAR THE MILL FUNERAL FROM CENTER OF THE FLOOD DISTRICT THE RUINED GROCERY PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 69 'in- ..•v^^ GOING INTO TTiUNGIlASI FR031 THE EAST SEAR THE BUSINESS CENTER Strolls, the fishing and the other attrac- tions. Down be- low is the little village of South- field. This at one time was a very busy place, but it is gradually becom- ing vacant. The village pastor. Rev. Mr. Benedict, help- ed to plan the lit- tle Baptist church there, and although OK THE MAIK STREET going away for several years, he has returned to minister again to the people whom he had served so long. Although this worthy gentleman never re- ceived a salary exceeding $800 a year and probably not so much, he said once in a public meeting, he was able, by frugality and economy, to keep out of debt, to educate his family and to live at peace with all the world. The history of New Marlboro is too long to attempt to even glance at it. It has been loyal to every call of the country for help. In the war of the Revolution and in 1774 they had resolutions of allegiance to the king, but soon after eepoused the cause of the colonies. In 1812, she responded nobly, THE METHODIST CHURCH, TYKINGHAM and in the war of the Rebellion she expended nearly $26,000, sent 202 men to the war, over twenty of whom were killed or died from wounds during service. The town is rich in good names, like the Baldwins, Freemans, Sheldons, Nortons, Canfields, Adamses, Wolfes, Sissons, Stannards, THE BUSINESS CENTER Alexanders, Gay lords. Harts, Sages, and in fact a long line of which space would not allow enumeration. So New Marlboro, although isolated, is after all one of the most inviting, pleasant and desirable spots to reside in. Her natural scenery is grand, and she has a close rival to the Lanesboro Balance rock, in the Tipping rock near Southfield. It is an immense bowlder, weighing fifty tons, and is so nicely balanced that a slight pressure will JEKVSALEM — TTRINGHAM PICTCRESQUENESS AT THE MILL FOND PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE FEliSSlDE — TYRINGHAM KOUTH UEMTKE SCHOOL OEKTKE SGUOOL LAKE MAY cause it to oscillate. Camel falls on the Southfield line of the town is picturesque, where water pours from a precipice loo feet high. Iron, gold and silver ore exist in limited quantities, and a few years ago, Mr. William Gibson, in the south part of the town, at a depth of twenty-two feet developed ore of both kinds which essayed $2$ to the ton. Marble is also found in considerable quantity. Only a mile or so from Mill river towards Sheffi,eld is Clayton. Here are the extensive china clay works of a large corpora- tion, and kaolin in large quantities is made here. Sheffield The most southerly town in Berkshire, and in fact among the first settled, is the old town of ShefiSeld. A mere chapter could not do justice to it. Its surface is diversified by mountain, hill and verdant valley, and the scenery is charming in the extreme. Shef- field became a township in 1761, but some thirty years before that, the town was settled by people coming from over the mountain and finding a dwelling place there. Her history is among the most interesting of any of the towns of Berkshire. It was in Sheffield that the spirit of liberty manifested itself to such a degree that the Declaration of Independence was practically ratified in June, 1776. It is said that one man who opposed its adoption at the town meeting was as good as sent out of town, and from that time afterward^ Sheffield has been known for her loyalty as well ' as her history. The town is fortunate in being diversified in scenery. It lies along the side of the peaceful Housatonic and the valley at this point is wider than further north, even at Stock- bridge. On the west are the rugged peaks of the Taconics, and its THE HEBMIT il»*^ THE KAKE FACTORY THB LAST GLEAM OF DAY SHAKER POND PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 71 highest is the Dome or Mount Everett, the second highest point in Berkshire county. On the east are the hUls divid- ing the town from New Marlboro, and the open valley farther south extends further over the line into Connecticut. There are innumerable handsome drives in and about Shef- field, while the village itself is a gem. Great broad streets, lined with gigantic elms on either side, are the character- istic feature of Sheffield. There are few handsomer country villages in all the region than Sheffield. One of the elms a mile south of the center is a giant,and Dr. Holmes refers to it in his " Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." Just in the village is Pine Knoll, a sort of park, reserved forever for stroll- ing, picnics and meetings under the tall pines constituting the shady grove. Out to the west is Bear's den and there are also a number of other places of interest. In the southwest corner of Sheffield, because the town is on the border of Connecticut, is Sage's ravine. It is situated between two mountains and the water descends in cascades and falls a distance of several hundred feet within a mile. In the morning when the sun shines directly on the main fall a rainbow is seen in the spray. In fact, nature has been lavish with her gifts in Sheffield, like Ice gulf. Mossy glen, Bat's den, the Dome, Ashley mountain and many others. It is only a short drive to Twin lakes, just over the line in Salisbury, Connecticut, and no wonder the village is becoming more and more famous as a summer resort year by year. But Sheffield is famous in other ways than her natural beauties. The town is rich in its history, and this latter includes the famous Declaration of Rights and Grievances, in 1773. Here was born and here passed the latter part of his life. Rev. Dr. Orville Dewey, one of the purest men Berkshire ever gave to the world, and one of the early exponents of Uni- tarianism. His " Problem of Human Destiny," written in Sheffield in 1850, is pronounced to be one of the ablest works of American intellect. .A.fter many years in active ministerial life in Boston, New Bedford, New York, Washing- ' ton and other places, Dr. Dewey returned to the home of his boyhood to pass the remainder of his days in quiet, and in the village cemetery repose the re- mains of one of the most famous m»n Berkshire ever produced. Citizens of Sheffield, in honor of their distinguished towns- man, erected a few years ago, a hall to his memory, and here are held the meetings of the Friendly Union, a literary or- ganization which meets weekly during the winter, with lectures or other entertainment which give the village a social and educational life that few others maintain. Here was born John Barnard, a superintendent of the military academy, and one of the important military men dur- ing the war. His brother, Dr. Frederick A. P. Barnard, has been president of Columbia college many years. The Deweys, of whom Orville was a branch, have been prominent as judges, divines and professors. " HALLOWE'EN ' One of the most prominent Metho- dist bishops was born and reared in Sheffield. Ashley falls, a few miles below and just on the Connecticut border, is a small village which at one time was quite important on account of its marble industry. In fact, marble is quite plentiful in Sheffield, and the handsome court-house at Pittsfield was built from stone procured in Sheffield. So this old town is rich in many ways. Its farmers are among the independent class. Probably few towns in Berkshire possess more of the thrifty farming element than just the good old town of Sheffield, which has, in a quiet and dignified way, marched steadily on from the first of her settle- ment in 1773, for more than 120 years, until now. In the town of Sheffield, it may be recorded here as amatterof his- tory, a few years ago, the first woman in Berkshire county cast her ballot for school committee, and this was the daughter of the late Dr. Dewey, whose independence and breadth of thought is fully as marked as that of her sainted father. SINGULAR OCCURRENCES IN SHEFFIELD HIVERSIDE FARM A BUSKING PARTY The following singular occurrences are said to have taken place near the boundary line be- tween Massachusetts and Connecticut. Part of these occurrences took place in Sheffield and part in the adjoining town of Salisbury, Conn. The relation of these circumstances was ob- tained from Mr. S. Sage and his family, who were still livingonthe spot (June, 1836) and were corroborated by great numbers of people living about the same time. " These occurrences commenced Nov. 8th, 1802, at a clothier's shop. A man and two boys were in the shop ; the boys had retired to rest, it being between ten and eleven o'clock at night. A block of wood was thrown through the win- dow; after that pieces of hard mortar, tUl the man and boys became alarmed, and went to the house to call Mr. Sage, who arose from bed and went to the shop, and could hear the glass break often, but could not discover from whence the missiles came, notwithstand- ing the night was very light. He exerted himself to discover the cause, without success. It con- tinued constantly till daylight, and then ceased till the next evening at eight o'clock, when it commenced again and con- tinued till midnight ; then ceased till the next evening at dusk, and continued till sometime in the evening, and then ceased. The next day it commenced about an hour before sundown, and continued about an hour, and then ;it left the shop and began at the dwelling house of Ezekiel Landon, 100 rods dis- tant, in the town of Sheffield. It continued several hours and ceased till the next morning; when the family were at break- fast it began again, and con- tinued two or three hours, and ceased till evening, when it be- gan again and continued several 72 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE hours, and ceased till the next morning, when it began again and con- tinued all the forenoon, and then ceased altogether. The articles thrown into the shop were pieces of wood, charcoal, stone, but principally pieces of hard mortar, such as could not be found in the neighborhood. Noth- ing but stones were thrown into the house of Mr. Landon, the first of which was thrown into the door. There were thirty-eight panes of glass broken in the shop and eighteen out of the dwelling houses ; in two or three instances persons were hit by the things that were thrown. What was remarkable, nothing could be seen coming till the glass broke, and whatever passed through, fell directly down on the window sill, as if it had been put through with a person's fingers, and many pieces of mortar, and coal were thrown through the same hole in the glass in succession. Many hundreds of people assembled to witness the scene, among whom were clergymen and other gentlemen, but none were able to detect the source of the mischief." VETERAN I'BDDLBR AND . HIS BUSINESS FIUEND3 HAULING LOGS, TTEINGHAM REMINISCENCES OF SANDISFIELD, acceptance of his constituents and of his patrons. In those days and for some time after, the tanners of Southern Berk- shire, of Western Hampden and and of other sections of West- ern Massachusetts, were a very considerable element in the business life of the region, and had "their say" in the politics of the places where their indus- tries were located. The proc- ess of tanning was then by the use of liquor made from hem- A LOAD OP PUMPKINS In the old days Sandisfield had importance socially, in local politics and in business circles, which one would not think of attributing to it now, with many of the old f amihes gone ; the industries that once thrived there died out and because of these decadences the name of the ancient town is left off the political slates almost entirely. Time was when the politicians went to Sandisfield for a lieutenant governor of the state. The man who had this honor was the late John Hull ; and one of his townsmen, the late Hon. Orlo Burt, who was well known in other days as a tanner, was also state senator and alternated between Berkshire and Boston and leather and legislation, with credit to himself and to the CANNON HILL, TTEINGHAM IPKESH POKE oue:uatebiai,<»'OB CHOEES lock bark ; the hills of many of the country towns abounded in forests of that kind, making bark plenty and to be had at reasonable rates, and with this ne- cessity for the conduct of their business assured, the tanners had nothing to do but to persevere and success was sure. In those days William Clafliuj son of Lee Claflin, a well-to-do bootmaker and leather dealer of Hopkinton, had, in furtherance of his ambitions, started the tanning business with the late J. W. Wheeler at Becket, where the two soon broaden- ed their business so as to need the enlargement of the little old tan- nery they had taken and also a new one of thrice the capacity of the other, which they builded in the lower part of the village. Here ^^^^ ^^^^.^ PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE governor as a visitor in their midst. Within a dozen miles of his indus- try in this hamlet were at least half a score of other tanneries, each do- ing at least a "living business." Norton & Ely were thriving in the " beaver dam " neighbor- hood of North Bland- ford ; there were two other tanneries flourish- ing in Blandford, with one at Russell and several in the town of Chester, one of which latter— that at the depot village — is the sole survivor of all the many that were in operation in its earlier 73 WILLOW GLEN, TyRlNGHAM they were thriving at the time of the war, when Mr. Claflin had risen in political importance so as to be president of the senate, with the governorship, which came later, then full in view, and these experiences but paving the way for a career as congressman. So the people of the busy little Berkshire hamlet of Becket used to have a full-fledged greatest captain of modern times and led the armies of the nation to their crowning victories and the country to its boon of peace. These successes could but have their influence on the humbler toilers in leather making, and they had a right to feel the increas- ed dignity attach- ing to their busi- ness. But, while the names of those who came to na- tional and world- THB OLD SLATKK HOUSE, TTItlNGHAM AN AUTCMN DAT ^ m Mi 1 ¥ m^' ^ M 3 g| i ■1^^^ -TV 11,11)1 eiHfpi n^^mi Hii^^-.^ ^ HH HH HHis^^iLj years. Otis had its industry of the kind, which was conducted by Spencer Watson, son of the ever-to-be-remembered Oliver Watson, who was a Nestor among the tanners. The establishment at Otis was coeval in its history with the one at San- disfield and others in the neighboring towns. Those were the days when, go- ing outside of the state, there were other leather makers found who achieved suc- cess in that business and others growing out of it, and who rose from their art, and by means of it, to political importance. Marshal Jewell, for instance, who had with his brothers and father, come from their little tannery in the woods at Win- chester, N. H., and located in the leather and belt business at Hart- ford, had come to be governor of the state of his adop- tion, minister of the United States to Russia, and the best postmaster- general the coun- try had had up to his day. And every- body knows that from a tannery at Galena, 1)1., went forth to the "war for the flag" the little self-reliant and patriotic man who became the THE WINDING HOP BROOK OLD GRAVESTONES 74 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A GLIMPSE or "OTIS' wide fame rest secure with their laurels, many of the others have, as far as the busy world of to-day is concerned, faded from memory, till concerning them it might be said :— "But gone is all their fame — the very spot Where many a time they triumphed is forgot." From such fate may the pen of the chron- icler spare them. Another source of the importance of Sandisfield in the business world was its maple sugar, which in other years amounted to many tons. But the groves of maples in Sandis- field, as in other hill towns of Berkshire, have fallen before the devastating march of the men of the Rich- mond Iron Works and of the late Mr.^Barnum's Connecticut furnaces, men who have been utterly unmindful of the beautiful and plaintive i jmction, " Woodman, spare that tree," and have laid low forests of beech, birch and maple that had clothed [" the mountains and the foot hills with beauty and maj esty. This to meet their greed for wood to char into coal to feed the furnace fires of the indus- tries in Berkshire and in near-by Con- necticut. People of three- score years of age originating in San- disfield and in any of the neighboring towns will recall, as will some of lesser years, the name and face of Dr. Erastus Beach, a physician of the old school, whose "ride" in Sandis- field and vicinity a hunting pakt^ — ahound the tavern eire at OTIS candidate for governor. But he belonged to a party whose star was not in the ascendant in those days and so he did not reach the executive chamber on Beacon hill. But that Erastus D. Beach attained great success ,in his profession and reflected honor on the town where he originated, no one can deny. A brother of his was the late Theodore D. Beach of Springfield, who is pleasantly remembered in business circles there; and another brother is Dr. J. C. Beach. There is a reminiscence to the effect that Dr. Beach, design- ing his eldest son for a doctor, named him for the scientist Erastus Darwin, and that wishing another son to become a lawyer, named him for a prominent attorney. But, on com- ^^Si^^B t^m v' 5?~'4pF^™^ '-' ''^--V' ■ 1 f' '' Hipplll I M the countky church kept him one of the busiest of men through all the seasons of the two-score years, and who with his family formed an im- portant element in the social life of the region. One of his sons was the late Hon. Erastus D. Beach of Springfield, a law- yer of good parts and of envi- able success in legal practice. He was the very model of ur- banity of manner, a fact which, ' with his- ability as a lawyer, stood him well in hand in his political life. For politics had their charms for him, and more than once or twice was he a M \I.\ 'TKICRT, OTIS DAT s HOTEL THE COKGUEGATIONAL CHURCH ^ - i — '-i^^airf^ ^^^*iJ- ~ POST OPFICE, ETC. OTIS CKHTEE ing to years, the sons reversed the paternal plans, E. D. becoming an attorney and J. C. taking to medicine. For whatever calling the Berkshire doctor intended his son Theodore, local legends tell not. But he certainly was a success as auctioneer. He so magnified his calling that he made almost an art of it; and by the. business he made PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE himself as indispensable to Springfield activities as were city officials or those most successful in the learned professions. Who that ever heard the ready and pat oratory of the urbane man as he glowed over the desirableness of some corner lot which he was selling at "vendue" will forget the charm of his words or the peculiar smile with which, and the accompanying nod, he recognized each successive bid in the scale of rapid ascension which, in the sale, was carried by his periods of " Gem'men, gem'men, I am offered one hundred dollars per front foot — only one hundred dollars for this lot in this good location of our beautiful city — only one hundred dollars? only one — one hundred and fifty dollars. Gem'men that's better. One hundred and fifty dollars — fifty, go two ? fifty, go two ? " and so on through a long line of loquacity 75 that always " did the business.'' This marvel of success in auc- tion oratory was like his more distinguished brother Erastus, a democrat. But there were many republicans who, soon after the "war days," voted for T. D. Beach as representa- tive to Boston, and rejoiced 1o see him elected. THK GROVE AT OTIS PONDS f 'y 4 J,'«-. ffcsMJoj-s^ ^Maci^J ». '?b!ivM«Mf-~_i 1 WEST OTIS Facts About New Marl- boro. — Although the object of this work is not the reproduc- tion of ancient history, certain matters relating to the early history of the town of New Marlboro, on account of their quaintness, come in at this point quite appropriately. As would appear to be indicated by the name, the place was settled by people from Marlboro. During the hard winter of 1739-40 a man named Wheeler remained the only white inhabitant of the town. The Indians, though friendly in most respects, for- bade him the use of the gun, lest he should kill the deer, and thus withheld from him part of the means of his support. His nearest white neighbors WEST OTIS MAIN STBEET were in Sheffield, a distance of ten miles, some of whom came on snowshoes to see him. The town of Northampton, in Hampshire county, is somewhat responsible for the permanent settlement of New Marlboro, for families by the name of Sheldon, Wright and Allen, came from there to stay, while Rev. Thomas Strong, a native of Northampton, was the first pastor of the first church organized in the town. His salary was fifty pounds. OTIS FALLS — EAST OTIS WB8T OTIS — SOT A SUMMER RESORT A DESEItTEH HOME — OTIS 76 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE A pond in the southeast part of the town, long called " Hermit Pond," derived its name from the fact that a hermit lived for several years on its southeastern side. The name of this hermit was Timothy Leonard. He came from Dutchess county, New York, five or six years be- fore the Revolutionary war, and though he purchased a farm he led a solitary life till his death. He died June 13, :8i7, from infirmity and old age, being, as was supposed, in his seventieth year. Unwilling that any one should remain with him during a single night, he died as he lived, alone and unattended. The cause of his leading a solitary life is supposed to be explained by the fact that he was an inveterate hater of women. His description of them was : — " They say they will, and they won't ; What they promise to do, they don't." AT TFE POST OFFICE, MONTEREY 1. ■..Ju«.k '■-JfUKSfS^ " . ^^^""^^ A MONTEREY STREET LAKE GARFIELD Let none smile at the history of Timothy Leonard, for he is not a solitary instance in which disappointed hope and mortified pride have been suffered to blot out the social affections, and produce uselessness, wretchedness and ruin. The Nature of Country Enjoy- ment. — The fullest enjoyment of the coun- try does not arise from strong excitements acting in straight lines ; not from august mountains, wide panoramas, awful gorges, nor from anything that runs in upon you with strong stimulations. All these things have their place, but they are occasional. They are the sub-base and come in as the mighty undertone upon which soft and vari- ous melodies float. A thousand daily little things make their offering of pleasure to those who know how to be pleased. Henry Ward Beecher. SELF-CONSCIOUS, BUT NOT ASHAMED TEACHING THE DOG NEW TRICKS — MONTEREY They love their land because it is their own, And scorn to give aught other reason why Halleck, ,,-;; llhii MONTEREY A W !■ LI -K\U\\> Mn^ I rUI \ I AKMUt PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 77 CONGIIEGATION \L CHURCH, SA^DIS1IELD TflT- I.KSEl.Tlli Ilii\ H)r M)i;r, SAXmsFJKLri iffe- lE JITLL AT WEST M'.W Uo.sTON OLD MILL AT JIONTVILLE A HILLSIDE FARM " Do set down an' git rested 1 I declare, you look real tuckered ! 'Tain't very easy climbln' with your gown so flounced and puckered ; Guess you wa'n't never here afore, you come along so soon, We don't look for you city folks much 'fore the last o' June ; ' What makes us live way off up here ' ? It doos seem pooty tough, But there's more land to the acre, where the sile is middlin' rough. " You'd better have a glass o' milk, an' cool off in the shadder ; ' Who made that little grave yard ' .' Land o' Goshen ! that's our medder; ' What makes that ledge so dirty ' ? Why, that's our new stun wall ! They built it three foot higher when they plowed for corn last fall ; No, 'tain't ' All rocks I ' they're footy thick, but only 'bout enough For there's more land to the acre, where the sile is middlin' rough. " When city folks set out to start, there ain't no use o' backin'. They've worked an' give a pile sometimes, when help an' pay was lackin' ; HAYING It is five o'clock. The morning is clear and fresh. A thin, blue film oi mist hovers over the circuit of Iht Housatonic along the mountain bell. A hundred birds — yes, five hundred — are singing as birds never sing ex- cept in the morning. In our house the girls are astir, and the mystery of breakfast is developing. The little dog is so glad, after the lonesome night, to see you, that he surfeits you with frolic. The men are in the barn, feeding the horses, and getting everything ready for work. Will it rain to-day.? The heavens overhead look like it, but the barome- ter says No. Then a few rounds with the scythe before breakfast, just by way of getting the path open. There they go, a pretty pair of mowers ! The blinking dewdrops on the grass tops wink at them and pitch headlong under the stroke of the swinging scythe. How low and musi- cal is the sound of a scythe in ils passage through a thick pile of grass ! It has a crunching, mellow, murmuring sound, right pleasant to hear. The grass, rolled over in a swath to the left, green and wet, lies like a loose- ly corded cable, vast and half twined. Around the piece, step by step, go the men, and the work is fairly laid out and begun. NEW BOSTON POST OFFICE OLD fuLKS AI noUE THE OLD MILL AT NEW BOSTON I recollect when they fust come was right in squash-bug time. An' some on 'em come up this way a larnin' howtocUmb,— An' one man ups an' hollers, when he'd stopped awhile to puff, ' Wal ! there's more land to the acre, where the sile is middUn' rough.' " They git some air that's fit to breajihe, an' they ain't stuck up, nuther ; They're jest as good as we be, an' you can't tell which from tother ; Theyjest hitch on to all our ways like floor boards to a jist. There ain't no "Bandoned Farm ' talk sence they've j;ive us such a hist ; An' with tlieir help, an' all our hills, I guess we're safe enough. For there's more land to the acre, where the sile is middlin' rough " Laura Sanderson. 78 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE TKOUT POKD AT SANDISFIRLD There sounds the horn ! Breakfast is ready. All the children are farmers' boys for the occasion. Were Sebasto- pol built of bread and cakes, these are the very engineers whoj^irould take it. Bless their appfiites ! It does one good to see growing children eat with a real hearty appetite. Mountain air, a free foot in the grassy fields aind open groves, plain food and enough of it — these things kill the lilies in the cheek and bring forth roses. But we must haste and make hay while the sun shines. Al- ready John Dargan is there whetting his scythe — John, tou^hr as a knot, strong as steel, famous in all the region for ploughing, and equally skillful at mowing, turning his furrow and cutting his swath alike smoothly and evenly, such farmers to spare, let them come on. THE HIGHWAY NEAR HANGING MODNTAIN If Ireland has any more RAIN UPON THE ROOF NKAK TllK HOTKL IN KEAV BOSTON NKAK HANGING MOUNTAIN When the humid shadows hover Over all the starry spheres, And the melancholy darkness Gently sweeps in rainy tears, What a bliss to press the pillow Of a cottage chamber lied, And listen to the patter Of the soft rain over head I Every tinkle on the shingles Has an echo in my heart ; And a thousand dreamy fancies Into busy being start. And a thousand recollections Weave their air threads into woof As 1 listen to the patter Of the rain upon the roof. Now in memory comes my mother, As she used in years agone, To regard the darling dreamers Ere she left them till the dawn; Oh I I feel her fond look on me As I list to this refrain Which is played upon the shingles By the patter of the rain. Then my seraph sister, With wings and waving hair, ■ And her star-eyed cherub brother— A serene, angelic pair- Glide around my wakeful pillow. With their praise or mild reproof, As 1 listen to the murmur Of the soft rain upon the roof. And another comes to thrill me With her eyes delicious blue ; And I mind not musing on her, That her heart was all untrue ; I remember but to love her With a passion kin to pain, And my heart's quick pulses quiver To the patter of the rain. Art hath naught of tone or cadence That can work with such a spell In the soul's mysterious foun- tains, Whence the tears of raptuie well, Asthatsubdued,subduing strain Which is played upon the shingles By the patter of the rain. Coates Kinney. VIEW IN SOUTH SANUISriELD The man of the farm strikes in first ; John follows, and away they go, up the hill, toward the sun. The grass is full of dew, which quivers in the sunlight, and flashes by turns all the col- ors of the rainbow. Round and round the field they go, with steady swing, the grass plat growing less at every turn. Meanwhile the boys have been at work spreading the grass. The hay-cocks of yesterday have been opened, the noon comes on, and it is time to house the hay. The day passes, and the night. With another morn- ing, and that Saturday morning, comes up the sun without a single cloud to wipe his face V . upon. The air is clear as crys- tal, no mist on the river, no fleece on the mountains. Yet the barometer is sinking — has been sinking all night. It has fallen more than a quarter of- an inch, and continues A'lEW NORIil FROM liltllHili, AT KRW IIOSTON MAKING SOAP BT THE WAT8IDK PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 79 which the mountain lifts up its head like a glorified martyr amid his perse- cutors ! Only a look can we spare, and all of us run for the house, and in good time. Down comes the flood, and every drop is musical. We pity the neigh- bors who, not warned by a barometer, are racing and chasing to secure their outlying crop. Henry Ward Beecher. THE RIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY IK MONTVILLE CENTRE slowly to fall. Our plans must be laid accordingly. We will cut the clover and prepare to get in all of yesterday's mowing, before two o'clock. One load we roll in before dinner. While catching our hasty dinner, af- fairs grow critical. The sun is hidden. The noon is dark. All hands are summoned. Now if you wish to see pretty work- ing follow the cart — the long forks leap into the cocks of hay ; to a back- ward lift they spring up, poise a moment in the air, shoot forward, are caught upon the load by the nimble John, and in a twinkling are in their place. We hear thunder ! Lightnings flash on the horizon. Jim and Frank and Henry Sumner are springing at the clover, rolling into heaps and dressing it down so as to shed rain. There are no lazy bones there ! Even we ourselves wake up and go to work. All the girls and ladies come forth to the fray. Delicate hands are making lively work, raking PLOUGHING THE HOME FIELD Monterey, Mount Washington, Alford, West STOCKBRiDcaE, Richmond and Egremont f i -^ Monterey is also one of the hill towns and is as handsome as its^eigh- bors, although its scenery is considerably different. Its early history is written a good deal in connection with that of Tyringham, the first settlement being made in 1739 by Isaac Garfield and others. Out of this Garfield vineTame the lamented President Garfield, and it was of good stock. The surface of Monterey is somewhat peculiar to itself. Extending nearly round the town's entire outline, are high hills, which give it the appearance of lying in a large, elevated basin. Its hills, however, are so broken that excellent roads are conveniently built and its soil is espe- cially adapted for grazing. Monterey has some very thrifty farmers and were it not remote from railway, (its nearest station being Great Barring- ton,) it would have been a very active town. The drives are excellent. The route from Monterey village south- ward, following along the head waters of the Konkapot river, is most de- lightful. In the other direction, 'over the hills to Sandisfield, it is a succes- sion of beautiful views and look-offs to charm the eye. The drive to Tyr- ingham from Monterey village is also picturesque. The road over Dry hill puts one almost abruptly in the valley of Tyringham, and it is one of the many fine panoramic views for which Berkshire is famous. . - Lake Garfield is the principal body of water in the town and is one of Berkshire's'most beautiful lakes.. It was so named soon after President Garfield was elected, having prior to that another name. This is the source of the Konkapot and is practically a reservoir, and built by the BAPTIST CHURCH, MONTVILLE CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, NEW BOSTON NEW BOSTON HOTEL up the dispersed grass, and flying with right nimble steps here and there, bent upon cheat- ing the rain of its expected prey. And now the long windrows are formed. The last load of hay from the other fields has just rolled triumphantly into the barn! Down jumps John, with fork in hand, and rolls up the windrows into cocks. We follow and glean with the rake. The last one is fashioned. A drop pats down on my face — another and another. Look at those baseless moun- tains that tower in the west, black as ink at the bottom, glowing like snow at the top edges ! Far in the north the rain has begun to streak down upon old Greylock ! But the sun is shining through the shower and changing it to a golden atmosphere, in MAD RIVER FALLS mill owners farther along the stream. It is a favorite resort for camping, and its^oating island was for a long time a gre^fe'^riosity. The island is 200 feet long^ a'nd^^ises and falls regularly with the water. Formerly it was located at about the south end, now floatihg from one side to the other, but a few years ago it drifted up the lake to its present moorings and seems likely to remain there. At the foot of Lake Garfield on the high- road to Tyringham is the residence of M. S. Bidwell, one of Berkshire's most famous philanthropists. He is one of the trustees of Hampton Institute, and was among the first to try the experiment of teaching the Indian boys and girls to work on the farm and in the house. His efforts have been very si^ccessful, and every^ guirirner thes^ 8o AT THE FISH HATCHERY, UAKTSVILLE, NEW MAHLBORO sons of the noble red man can be seen in the town of Monterey, at the homes of the various farmers in that section. Mr. Bidwell comes from old English stock, his ancestors being the early settlers of the town, and Rev. Adonijah Bidwell was the first pastor of Monterey, then THE HATCHING TROtTCTBS THE CROW HILL SCHOOL It seems like a dream to me now how Jim and I used to go Ploughing our wdy to the district school through the deeply drifted snow ; Our homespun suits were of black sheep's wool, pantaloons, jackets, and all, Our shoes were made of the " beef critter's " liide father l^pled in. the fall ; The boyb took turns in the winter at cutting the stove wood to fit, 'Twas an exercise we detested, but we made the best of it. The school-house was old and shaky from the peltings of many a storm. The glass was out of the windows, it was awful hard to keep warm ; The schoolmaster's desk was whittled by knives of boys by the score. Initials, peep-holes and ink spots were thick on the sagging old door ; 1 cut the name of my sweetheart in the lid of my desk one day. And the schoolmaster "warmed my jacket" in the old original way. Whenever we disobeyed orders the ferule came into play. And it left a sting behind it that lasted for inany a day ; The boys had a nreJist posted, the girls took turn with the broom, And swept, and garnished with evergreen boughs the walls of the dingy room. Every mprning we read in concert, and lifted our voices high. All firmly resolvefto do our best to make a noise or die. When I think upon those happy days it is like a misty dream I might have in sleepy meadows bordering on a lazy stream— I hear the Tapping waters o'er the smooth- worn Babbles glide — Again I.am a careless boy, and Jim is sitting by my side — Hush] we are in the school-room ! hear the tapping of the master's rule. He is sayingv— ". Order ! I want order here in Crow Hill scWeol ! " 'J HE si'AWX PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Tyringhara, and officiated at the now deserted church near Dry hill. There have been other noble families in Monterey. These include the Steadmans, Chadwicks, Benedicts, Thomp- sons, Langdons, Tyrrels, Townsends and many others. Hyde's falls, a few miles south of the village, is a romantic glen through which a brook de- scends in a series of cascades for nearly a mile. There are many other beautiful places to attract in the vicinity of Mon- terey village. Latterly, (and Mr. Bidwell made the beginning,) Monterey has become quite popular as a summer resort. Its farmhouses are sought by the tired people of the cities and here they live for the season, enjoying the plain hospitality of the sturdy agri- culturists in the vicinity of Mon- terey village, or the farmers on the hillside. The village itself is a pretty little hamlet, but its business is somewhat declined. There is but one store now. A few years ago there were two. The hotel is practi- cally abandoned. The little Congre- gational church on the Four Corners stands on an elevated site, and here the people for miles around come to worship on the Sabbath. There is no manufacturing now in the town, but it is quite a trading point for the farmers, who here bring their produce — butter, cheese, etc. — to the country store, and exchange for other commodities, and the country merchant in turn sends to the city, and by that means quite a trade is built up. There are some very cosy homes in Monterey village. This place has an air of quiet, and is in some respects a model and ideal isolated country settlement. The town has always been generous in her support of churches and schools, and her highways compare favorably for a mountain town with others in Berk- shire. It is thought that some day the railway from Canaan, through Egremont to Otis and thence to We'stfield, will be a verity and will revive the now somewhat dfooping fortunes of this good old town. Mount Washington There is no town in all Berkshire, or indeed in Massachu- setts, like Mount Washington. Jt is isolated, more than any other town; it lies on the very summit of the Taconics and to reach the town proper, it is "all the way up hill," whether one goes from the Housatonic valley at Egremont, or climbs the winding highway from the station on the Harlem road at Copake. The town itself lies just back of the Dome, or Mount Everett, and once reached is a broad stretch of rolling land, and many farmers count in their domains hundreds of acres of pasturage, woodland and fields that are tillable. Its eleva- tion, some 2,600 feet above tide-water, makes it, (so the doctors say, and they should know,) an almost certain cure for hay STRIPPING THE SPAWN fever and this was what first brought Mount Washington into fame and prominence as a summer resort. It would take more pages than we could spare to tell all about this town. It was incorporated in 1764, (funny how old some of the Berkshire towns are,) and has kept its first family names well. These, like the Spurrs, Schutts, Weavers, Races and others yet remain. The town has hardly a store, nor even the proverbial black- smith shop, neither priest, lawyer, doctor or tailor ; neither railway, telegraph or telephone are within her borders. | For years there was only one pauper, a town charge, and •'' he was demented and crippled. Two schools for many years supplied the educational demands of the people, and even now there are no "grammar grades." A little union cliapel, built a few years ago, is supplied by pastors ^ from Uic villages of Egremont and Copake. on the bloodguod stock ..-arm DISCUSSING A DEAD WILDCAT IN THE CLUBllUOMtJ 'A .11 l'«feg ft- " PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Nothing in Berkshire, unless it be Qreylock, surpasses Mount Washington in natural wildness, beauty and gran- deur. Bash Bish falls make Mount Washington famous, and it. is one of Nature's wonders and attractions. Our artist tells the story by camera and pencil in better language than the pen. In a short distance, by a series of waterfalls the little stream, possibly fifty feet wide, makes the descent of some 200 feet and its last leap after the watejs part at the bowldei- is some sixty feet, and known as the Lower falls. OON®ATIOXAL CHURCH, NEW MARLBORO Oa each side of the stream, where it has worn its way all through the ages since it began its uneasy course, , is "Eagle's Nest," with walls some 200 feet high as smooth as those of a hard-finished room, with neither tree nor vine. Then there is "Look-Off" and other interesting bits of scenery. These elevations, like " Eagle's Nest," are acces- sible and stairs or a circuitous path lead to the top; while below are the waters dashing down the ravine. From the .Kl-.i.. A i I'iNAL CHtl;L'U. SOI'THKI F.LD .>s^ 81 highway near the falls and to the north- ward the "Old Man of the Mountain" or "Profile Rock" is clearly seen and much resembles a similar formation in the White mountains. Bash Bish may be photographed or reproduced on the I'OST OFFICE AND OOMilOS, NEW SIAULUORO ORNTRE printed page, but a pen picture — and many a time the story has been graphically told — does feeble justice to the gran- deur, the wildness and the fascination of the scene. It should be visited^ and yet how many thousands there are in Berk- shire, who, while they have read of Bash Bish, have little con- ception of just where it lies and how grand it is! There are other places of interest in Mount Washington. The town is on the southeastern border of the state; for a time a small cor- POKCH AT THE OLD RICHAKDSON HOUSE The town became famous in another direction in about 1878, when the Goodale sisters, and " Sky Farm," their mountain home, came into prominence in the literary world. These then little girls, Elaine and Dora, brought out a volume of "Apple Blossoms," and afterwards " Among the Wild Flowers of Berkshire," which attracted much attention. The books were the collection of simple poems from their pens told in a beautiful ner of it was c&t off and known as Bos- ton Corners. at wo»'e Here was the scene of a prize fight years ago, because it was almost on neutral ground. The pugilists were taken to Lenox, for Massachusetts found a way to put her hand on them, and paid fines in large sums for their encounter. Ex-Senator Dawes was then district attorney, and tells of his interview with Morrisey. He next met Morrisey when both were in Congress, after the Morrisey and Heenan fight, I believe. Bear Rock is a great attraction. Mount Everett can be easily reached on foot from the town. One of the pastimes in summer of some of the sporting fraternity of Mount Wash- ington is to catch rattle-snakes along the mountain side where they have dens, and the oil is sold as a remedy for deafness A STUDY IN BLACK AND WHITE NEAR THE "WOODLAWs" UETHODIST CHURCH, BABT5VILLE A GLIUFSE OF SOUTHFIELD 82 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE AT MILL RIVER the cut of " Sky Farm as it Was," as used in the book " Apple Blossoms. " A party of New York gentlemen a few years ago bought the territory, have laid it out info smaller tracts and it is planned to erect cottages for their occupancy in summer, with a deer park and other attractions of that sort. As said before, few towns in Berkshire afford such attractions in natural beauty as Mount Washington. Its elevation, its isolation, its healthfulness, its abundance of streams fed by "living springs," its wealth of views from many a look-off, all combine to make Mount Washington decidedly unique and in one sense famous. Alford Alford, in some respects, is lik,e a few of the other towns in Berkshire county, way and made a decided innovation. Since then their pens have been prominent. The home life of the Goodales has been very pecu- liar.] Both the father and mother were literary people;. at supper, for some years, it had been the custom of the family to have read from the "Sky Farm Daily," I believe they called it, something which had been written that day. So in this atmosphere and from such a parent- age these ghrls (now to womanhood grown) could not help thriving and finally budding out and blossoming into the very life they embarked in, At eleven the girls were fine Greek scholars, for their mother taught them. An ideal family was that of Mr. Goodale's " Sky Farm home." The family have since gone from Mount Wash- ington ; " Sky Farm " is now a summer resort under another name. We are indebted to Messrs. G. P. Putnam & Son, publishers, for MILL HIVKE CIl.^Tn PLATJIATKS SOUTHFIELD SCHOOL-HOUSE , S^»?', OLD HOUSE AT MILL BIVER NEAR POST-OFFICE, SOUTHFIELD UMPACHENE FALLS OLD BOARDING-HOUSE in that it was never a manufacturing center, but from its earliest history has been purely agricultural. By the terra manufacturing is meant such industries as have been incident to many of the other Berkshire towns, like Pittsfield, Great Harrington, Dalton, Hinsdale, the Adamses and some others. It has, however, valuable deposits of marble aiid some nice specimens MILL RlVKlt POST-OFFICE of iron ore, notably in that section of the town adjoining West Stock- bridge. It is said that some very fine specimens of hematite exist in Alford. A quiet, peaceful town- ship is Alford, and in several re- spects quite romantic. It is a narrow valley, upon each side of which are the mountain ranges. To the east is the range separating it from the Housatonic vallfy, while on the west are the rugged Taconics. Its principal mountain is Tom Ball; from whose summit a' gorgeous view is obtained. Its HOTEL AT MILL RIVER PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE -1 tent. At these quarries is a r very interesting bit of natural scenery, Icnown as the '' Fry- ing Pan Spring." The little stream coming down through the woods, all at once loses itself in a circular hole in the marble, and goes gurgling 83 «**.-IS.. Tn£ SHADED STREAK THE OLDEST Streams are fed by living streams from the mountain side, and are clear and sparkling. Green river, made famous by Bryant, has its source among the highlands in the southwest part of the town. ' On each side of the valley, as it were, the highways leading from West Stockbridge center down through a farming section, with the meadows stretching on to the brook running the entire length of the town. On the northeas* side is a handsome drive from West Stock- bridge center to Alford. A little way from the roadside are the famous marble quarries, formerly owned by Mr. Fitch, and the stone taken from them was used in the construction of the old city hall in New York, and even now retains its color and its hardness to a great ex- TOWM HALL, MILL UIVER down many feet, with a peculiar hissing sound incident to a frying pan. Nearly a mile farther west it emerges from the mountain-side. On the west side are also a number ;0f other romantic glens in the mountain- range which divides Alford from the town of Austerlitz in New York (Continued on page 86) ALKXANDEIt DAJI A^D JIILL r 6f f"'V -4 SISSON'S MILL — hill RIVER .,^. ^ - NEAR THE CUEAMERT, MILL RIVER THE PINE BOAD MILL RIVER CREAMERY BELOW SISSON's DAU 84 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE Eiijsi^S:; ON THE SOAD TO CAMPBBLL S FALLS GIBSON'S GROVE, HEW MARLBORO CURIOUS EPITAPHS The following inscriptions are taken from monuments in the cemetery in Sheffield: — Sacred to the memory of Jonathan Hubbard and Mrs. R. Rachel Hubbard, his consort, this monument is erected. The Rev. J.Hubbard was the first pastor of the church in Sheffield. He was blessed with a lively genius and solid judgment. His public discourses were judicious and his conversation I instructive. He de- parted this life July 6th, 1765, in the 62nd year of his age.— Our Fathers, where are they ? and do the Prophets live forever ? Beneath this stone lies the body of the Rev. John Keep, A. M., pastor of the church in Sheffield.who died September 3d, A. D. 17S4, /Etat 36, et ministeri 13, calmly resigning his mortal life in hope of a blessed jmmortaUty thro' the atonement of Jesus Christ. He was blessed with natural genius improved by educa- tion and a benevolent heart, and was illustri- ous as a Divine, a 'DOLCE FAR NIBNTE " AT LAKE BLEL X RAVINE NEAR CAMPBELL S FALL** CAMPBELL.^ FALLS, IJEW MARLBORO in Sheffield, having been pre- viously the pastor of the church ip Norwich, and also in Taun- ton. Mr. Judson was esteemed as a learned divine, an acute logician, and an evangelical preacher He was mild, cour- teous, and hospitable. By his nunjerous friends he was deemed a wise counsellor, an active peace-maker & a sincere ■Christian. What he was in Truth the Great Day will disclose. Here lies the body of Ma jor General John .Ashley, who died November 5, 1799, inthe 64th year of his age. ; Make the extende.d skies your tomb, Let stars record yjjur worth; Yet know vain mortals all must die. As nature's sickliest birth. This^monument is erected to perpetuate the memory of Col. John Ashley, who depart- ed this life Sept. ist, iio2, in the 93d year of his age. Virtue alone has majesty in death. And triumphs most when most the tyrant frowns ; Earth highest station ends in Here he lies And dust to dust concludes her noblest song. Who lives to Nature rarely can be poor ; Who lives to fancy never can be rich. TURNER S LANDING, LAKE BUEL Preacher, a Friend and a Christian. When suns and planets from their orbs be hurl'd And hvid flames involve this smoking world ; The Trump of God an- nounce the Savior nigh .\nd shining hosts of angels crowd the sky. Then from this tomb thy dust shall they convey To happier regions of eter- nal day. Sacred to the memory of the Rev. Ephraim Judson, Pastor of the church in Sheffield. He died on the 23d of February, A. D. 1813, in the 76th year of his age, and 23d of his ministry V[l.A\ .,).\ LAKE HUKL, NEW MARLBORO PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 85 fir T VIEW OF THE STREET IN SHEFFIELD ON THE MAIN 6TKEET, SHEFFIELD A WINTER MEW, SHEFFIELD The repose and beauty of the scenery of Berkshire, its stimulating climate, its ease of access and its quiet, render it a favorable residence for literary persons, and we suggest to them that, if they desire to write theij novels and poems and histories in the briefest possible time, and with the least fatigue, they should come hither. — Rev. T. T. Mun- ger. O^VILLE DEWEY CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH OLD STONES IN THE CEMETEJIT THE TWO VILLAGES T. DAVID'S — HOME OF THE LATE ORVILLE DEWET Over the river, on the hill, Lieth a village, white and still ; All around it the forest trees Shiver and whisper in the breeze. Over it sailing shadows go Of soaring hawk and screaming crow, And mountain grasses, low and sweet; Grow in the middle of every street. Over the river, under the hill, Another village lieth still; There I see in tlie cloudy night ~\ Twinkling stars of household light, Fires that gleam from the smithy's door, Mists that curl on the river shore ; And in the roads no grasses grow. For the wheels thathasten to and fro. In that village on the hill Never is sound of smithy or mill ; The houses are thatched with grass and flowers ; Never a clock to tell the hours ; The marble doors are always shut, You cannot enter in hall or hut ; All the villagers lie asleep ; Never a grain to sow or reap ; Never in dreams to moan or sigh ; Silent and idle and low they lie. In that village under the hill, When the night is starry and still, Many a weary soul iii prayi-r Ldteks to tlie other village there. And weeping and sighing, longiS to go Up to that home from this below ; Longs to sleep in the forest wild, Whither have vanished wife and child, And heareth, praying, his answer fall : " Patience ! that village shall hold ye all " Rose 'Terry Cooke. 86 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE ^^■ West Stockbridge This town is on the western border of Berkshire, and from its western portal one can easily step over the line and be in " York state," which, it is said, was quite haijdy years ago, when jailing for debt and other misdemeanor made the departure of the victim rather necessary, and sometimes the more hurriedly the better. But all that is long since past and gone. It.was originally a part of the town of ptockbridge, and before its division was known as Queensboro, and was a part of the domain of the Stockbridge Indians. The high Stock- AUTUMN ON THE MAIN STREET, SHEFFIELD THE RIDE ABOUT THE COUNTY Monterey, Mount Washington, Alford, West .Stockbridge, Richmond and Egremont 'i (Continued from pdge 83) state. The little village of Alford itself is s|mply a hamlet. The one church in Alford, and which our artist gives a picture of, is a union affair, supported jointly by the Congregationalists and the Methodists. During the time of the Shays rebellion, this little parish suffered con- THE WILLOWS THAT SAVED THE ROAD siderably, and the pastor, Rev. Joseph Avery, was dismissed because of his sympathy for the rebellion. There is much of interest in Alford. It is a quiet little village, but there are yet quite a number of the sons of the old 'families. Here came early the Deweys, of whom Jud^e Justin Dewey of the METHODIST CBDRCH, SHEFFIELD bridge mountain on its eastern border divides it from the mother town, and some have wondered why Stockbridge and West Stockbridge should be almost synonymous terms and why West Stock- bridge wasn't given another name. The surface of the town is full of charming scenery, broken into hills that vary from 500 to 900 feet above Williams river, which is the principal stream and which flows through the valley, one of the most charming and lovely in Berkshire. The entire length of Williams river from CATHOLIC CHURCH THE HOTEL AT SHEFFIELD THE BRIDGE ROAD Massachusetts superior court is a descendant, and we believe was born in Alford. In this town are the Tobeys, the Williamses, Beebes and the Stoddafds ; this latter family trace their ancestry back to 1060, and the first of the family emigrated to Boston in 1639. Here are the Barnums and Tuttles. Only re- cently there died in Alford Ezra C. Ticknor, nearly ninety years of age, who was one of the oldest living members of the state legislature and. was one of the early promoters of the Boston & Albany railroad. The Ticknors are an old family in Alfbrd and settled there in 1764. * In other days Alford was mpre important as a township than now. It is suffering the decay incident to many other towns away from railway, although it is a beautiful six-miles' drive down the Seekonk creek to Great Barrington. The town abounds in many handsome views, ?nd is gradually coming to be a resting place in summer for a good many city people. State Line to VanDeusenville along through Rockdale is a succession of cas- cades and is hemmed in'by the high walls of the mountain-side. The town of West Stockbridge, as also the southern part of Richmond, has been known for "a long time in respect to its minerals. Geologi- cally its rocks are largely of limestone formation, and this industry has been a source of much wealth to Stockbridge during all its history. Its marble is of an especially fine texture, and as early as 17.90, building marble was taken from its quarries. Much of the marble used in the State House in Boston, the old City hall in New York, Girard college in THE CURTIS MILL PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 87 THE SHEFFIELD ELM scnooL-noiisK and ford at Philadelphia came from this town. In fact, much Berkshire marble is found in most of the public build- ings in many of the large cities. Iron ore, too, of the finest quality and of three distinct kinds, has also given West Stockbridge a good place in the iron-producing world. It is said that ore taken from these mines in this town makes the finest car wheels of that of any m the country. Deacon Nathan Leet, in 1826, opened the first mine upon his farm and it, with the Hudson, Cone and other beds, have made West Stockbridge famous in that direction. For many years flie old Pomeroy iron furnace was very famous. The first railroad in Berkshire county, as we understand, was that from West Stockbridge to State Li ne and then to Albany. Pittsfield found it convenient to ride by team or stage to West Stockbridge and from there go by railroad to Hud- son river. The road was of the primitive class, of wooden sleepers, covered with strips of iron upon which the little locomotives and The drives and walks, with the village of West Stockbridge as a center, are charming in every direction. This whether one goes over the hill to " Old Stockbridge " or around the hill to Glendale and Williamsville. There are charming views in all directions from that side of the town. The drive down the river is very ' pleasant. On the hill at West Stockbridge, where was organized the first church in town in 1789, is also a delightful section of country. The drive northward toward Rich- mond, past the iron mines, many of which latter are now being deserted, is also a very pleasant outing. The village is not as active as it used to be a few years ago, since its iron and lime industries have been considerably crippled, but yet there is much of village pride. Its churches are neatly kept and in good repair, indicative of the good sentiment which pervades that com- munity. One Berkshire man has said that a community which keeps its school-houses, its churches and its sidewalks in repair, needs no better voucher of its citizenship to commend itself to the stranger or its neighboring townsmen. The town has of late begun to offer some inducement for city people to come among her people, and there are many handsome slopes and desirable sites for building pur- poses, or for city homes and country seats which in a few years, it is '""""'^ thought, will be taken up by this desirable class of visitors. Richmond ; Richmond is also famous in a geological sense, for here were discpvered by one of her own sons. Dr. Stephen Reed, (a geologist of much reputation and one of the early .'It PINE KNOLL, SHEFFIELD cars ran. The history of West Stockbridge is as interesting as many of the other towns in Berkshire, from the time of its earliest settlement by Joseph Bryant, who settled in the town in 1766. The town was incorporated in 1774, and during the Revolution the settlement was loyal as much as was its mother town Stockbridge, over the mountain. Many of the old families have de- scendants in West Stockbridge yet. It would be loss of time to go through all the various changes which have occurred in this old town, but such names as appear in its history from time to time are a credit and are looked back to with pride by the residents. 88 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE RETURKIKG HOME lecturers on tem- perance from a physical stand- point) the fa- mous " Rich- mond Boulder Trains." These rocks are well defined as to course across the town and are of chlorist schist. They ex- tend across the town from Try's hill in Columbia county, N. Y., to the Richmond line on the east, the trail being about three miles wide on STOPPIKG TO MAKE REPAIRS OX THE ROATl FROM SHEFFIELD, SOUTH TO THE STATE LINE A LOAD OP APPLES Island, or about Norwalk and that part of Connecticut. They were grand people who came and have left their impress even yet Here came the Piersons, Parmlees, Rowleys, Gates and others equally prominent. The Pierson family of Pittsfield sprang from this early stock. The Rowleys were also prominent edu- cators, President Rowley of De Pauw college being a native of Richmond. The Perrys came from Richmond, the late George Perry, one of the editors of \}a^ Home Jour- nal, being a descendant of the first clergyman of Richmond; they are a literary family. The Cooks^Ros- siters, Dorrs, Gastons, Nicholses, Williamses, Grofifings and others have all left descendants to honor them and preserve the honor of the west of Richmond arid two miles nearer Lenox and Pittsfield. Somfe stones weigh many tons, others are mere pebbles, but they were all un- questionably dropped by floating ice during the LANDSCAPE glacial period, and the " Trains " mark the course of the current. They are wonderful, and their discov- ery and identification in 1842, made Dr. Reed famous and Richmond known as never before to the scientific world. Richmond's settlement dates back to 1760 and in 1765 the first town meeting was held; the early records are yet well preserved. Her history after the separation from Lenox, as a town (and which latter township lies over the rugged mountains) has been eventful. Her set- tlers came largely from Long PRESSING THE APPLES FOE CIDER PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 8q GLIMPSE OF THE HOUSATOMIC AT SIIEFFI Richmond. Lawyers and physicians, clergymen, missionaries and editors of note, as also literary people, both men and women, have traced their ancestry to Richmond from among the early settlers. It is a good old town yet, although declining. For many years, Dr. Reid kept a boys' school on the hill near the old church, that turned out many graduates who have since be- come famous, and the institution had a national reputation. This glory has departed long ago, but its influence yet lives. Some one in writing of this old town, said that Nature was evidently in one of her happiest moods when she created Richmond, for she has left her trace in a marked manner, and none more so than in the depression wherein the valleys lie, and within a short distance the rugged mountain sides. Richmond is one of ,' the Berkshire towns with many marked pecu- . liarities both as to scenery, mountain, hill and dale, peaceful valley and fertile field. Her mineral wealth is also abundant and contributed not a little to her reputation and the thrift of her people. The iron mines in Richmond are extensive and its ore is known wherever iron is converted into car wheels, or cannon are made and used. The air here is bracing and pure. It is a peaceful old town ; the village is hardly such, excepting as the railway station, the store near by and the long street peopled with good far- mers constitute a village. At the Furnace there is quite a settlement, largely of those employed in the mines, the iron works, or superintendents. In Richmond are numerous sources of streams. Here rises the Williams river, which flows south through West Stockbridge; others flow into Richmond reservoir, partly in Pittsfield and thence to the Housatonic. There are also others, and these peaceful brooks through meadow and field are tempting to the trout fisherman. In Richmond is Perry's Peak, famous as one of the best look-ofEs in Berkshire. Its summit is bald and nothing obstructs the view. It is accessible by team nearly to the summit, and from the top the view is simply grand. Far away are the Catskills, while the Shawangunks rise like a cloud line against the sky. South to the Dome, over the smaller hills in Alford, is another handsome stretch of territory. North is Greylock, while to the west the Green mountains, with the valley below and Pittsfield in the distance, make it altogether one of the best views in the country. Lake Queechy, just over the New York line in Canaan, is at your feet ; the Shaker settlements at Canaan and New Lebanon are also nestled just at the foot of the hills. The beauty of Perry's Peak, as one writer says, is the coup (Tceil which it affords in all directions. From Richmond came the Dwights. The elder Dwight for eighteen years was the pastor of the old church, when it was one of the large parishes of the county. Henry W. Dwight, the head of the American express system in New England, was a son. In 1882, the old Congregational church burned, having been the town's place of worship since 1795. Judge Dwight of Auburn came, with his family, to assist at laying the corner stone of the present tasty cottage church, and was called on to make a few remarks. It was a still afternoon in May ; the sun was just going towards the west, and the audience of perhaps 300 were either standing around or sitting in their wagons. Without preparation, standing on the corner stone, his head uncovered, he spoke for fifteen min- utes as one inspired. The picture he drew of his father as he came Sunday —.« -~ after Sunday ministering to the people from 1819 ; of his sainted mother, of the other fathers and mothers of the town, was a memory those who heard it never forgot. To him and others it was nearly holy ground. For more than a century, this same church had only five settled pastors, and this for a period of 120 years. Rev. Job Swift was the first in 1769 ; then came Rev. Mr. Perry, then Rev. Edwin Dwight and so on through the others. In Richmond are many specimens of art. The late Miss Catherine Pierson, whose handsome home was known all over that section, was a lover of art, and, despite her eccentrici- ties, made many people happier by her going through the world. She it was who encouraged the young artist, Bridgman — a Berkshire boy — furnished him with means to go abroad for study, and one of his best and among his first paintings went to his benefactress. Miss Pier- son died a few years ago, leav- ing a large estate, having in- ' herited the ancestral acres and the home of her birth and where her eighty years and more of life were passed. In Richmond, a farmer demon- strated a few years ago that small fruits could be raised for profit, and his example is being imitated and making many of his fellow farmers thrifty and independent. Berkshire's first fish culture was in Richmond. Richmond is a good agricultural THK MEETING THK QUIET STREAM " BOW WOW go PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE POST OFFICE, ASHLEY FALIS METHODIST CHUKCH AT ASHLEY FALLS and South parishes. The South village is an ideal, with its shaded streets, its cottage homes, its single church spire on the slight elevation of landj pointing heavenward. It lies nestled at the very foot almost of the Dome and the mountain ridge of the Taconics, on the summit of which is Mount Washington. The charm of South Egremont lies in the fact that it is within easy- distance of Great Harrington, over one of the best of highways, or to Hillsdale over the mountain ; and yet no locomotive whistle or much manufacturing disturbs its stillness and .repose. The drives in the vicinity are also its capital as a siimmer resort. They are numberless. Here is the Mount Everett hpuse, so named from the Dome, and here Landlord Peck has in his family some of the best of guests. It isn't a fashionable resort by any means ; but men and their families come from the city ; to the Mount Everett and the cottages in the village, for the genuine comfort and restfulness of the village and its attractions, l^obert Carter, the well-known publisher of re- ligious and Sun- day - sch o ol works for years, made this his summer home during his life. How he did op- pose, with his strict Sabbata- rian notions, the HAiLWAY STATION innovation of ASriLI'Y PALIS town and lately is becoming quite popular as a summer resort ; especially by those who purchase places and build summer residences there. E. F. o. Egremont Egremont wouldn't be a Berkshire town if it were not unlike any other; and yet is in many respects akin to the rest of the Berkshire family. The town is one of the thriftiest, agricul- turally, in the county; in fact, Egre- mont Plain is proverbial for her well- to-do farmers and many of them re- side on the ancestral acres. There are two villages in Egremont, the North THB SUSIKESS CENTER, ASHLEY FALLS ir THE BED BBIDSE Sunday trains on the Housatonic a few years ago! One of the ancient homesteads of the town is that known as the Isaac TuUar house, which stands near the brook and near the old TuUar burial ground. He was a wagoner during the French and Indian war, and made some money, with which he came from Tuxbridge, Ct., and bought a tract of land, (now in Egremont,) 1735, and then a part of Sheffield. The brick were made on his own land and here he built the old house which has stood since 1761. His wife was Anna and the heart on the house THE noTKL POBCH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 91 A GLIMPSE THROUGH THE NOTCH the section is the coun- try trading place of well-to-do farmers for a considerable dis- tance. The road to Tfjllsdale is romantic, leading over the moun- tain. At the summit is the famous " Echoes." A shout gives back at least three distinct echoes. The places are all within a few rods of each other and quite a natural curiosity. White's hill, near there, is just over ON THE ItOAD TO COFAKE was to signify their happy union. The property is yet in the TuUar family ; the old pioneer having died in 1797 at the ripe old age of eighty- five. In one portion of the town, lying on the road to Mount Washington, is Guilder Hollow. John Van Guilder was a real Konkapot Indian ; but liv- ing in the family of a Dutch farmer in New York state, he took his foster- father's name and the locality was then known, as now, as Guilder Hollow. It is now deserted. He married the daughter of a white settler named Karner and settled in Egremont; he was a part of the famous Stockbridge Indian tribe. Their half-breed de- scendants were for many years numer- ous in Egremont, but another portion of the tribe went to Granville, N. Y., to another place named Guilder Hol- low and there remain the descendants, are now in Egremont. Egremont as a town dates her history from 1760. The town was named for Lord Egremont, according to some traditions ; butit is generally believed to be named for the '' agreetnent" made with Great Harrington and Sheffield as to boundary lines. The town is rich in minerals, especially in marble, and the late Chester Goodale, the grandfather of the celebrated Goodale sisters the poets, for many years did a large business in that industry ard laid the foundation to quite a fortune. The town has sent out her share of noble men and women to the pro- fessions and to help the world. Grosvenor P. Lowrey is one of the promi- nent members of the New York bar. Andrew Reasoner became a famous COPAEG STATION None of the Indian descendants AN OLD KicIENl> railroad manager. The old families are good stock and are loyal, industri- ous and maintain the reputation of the old town. Here came early the Win. chells, Lowreys, Karners, Dalzells, Klines, Races, Rowleys, Baldwins and many others. To North Egremont village is an easy, three-mile drive. This, too, is an ideal country village on the main road from Austerlitz, over in Columbia county, to Great Barrington, and from the latter village to Hillsdale. Here is the valley of the famous Green river, which flows placidly and peacefully on its way to the Housatonic. North Egremont, too, has its little church and MOUNT WASHINGTON CHUAOH the New York line and is one of the grandest views in all the Taconic range. In all that makes for the comfort of the farmer, the social and educational advantages of a community of that character, Egremont is highly favored. A flourishing academy once existed in South Egremont; but the progress of events and its distance from railway finally led to its abandonment and the town has its high school there. Mr. Greenwood's famous horse and stock farm is just over the Great Barrington line, but so near South Egremont that it properly belongs to the latter town. Judge Rowley lives on the old farm and is one of the best-known agricul- turists in Berkshire ; interested in her f airs,.her improvement among farmers and yet a very level-headed magistrate, one of the associates of the Great Barrington court living in the county. Yes, a grand good old township, .and citizenship is Egremont ! Country and City Life Con- trasted. — It is no advantage to'live in a great city, where poverty degrades and failure brings despair. The fields are lovelier than paved streets, and the great forests than walls of brick. Oaks and elms are more poetic than steeples and chimneys. In the cpun- try is the idea of home. There you see the rising and setting sun ; you become acquainted with the stars 'and clouds. The constellations are your friends. You hear the rain on the roof and listen to the rhythmic sigh- ing of the winds. You are thrilled by the resurrection called spring, touched and saddened by autumn, the grace and poetry of death. Every field is a picture, a landscape ; every landscape a poem ; every flower a tender thought, and every forest a ^ fairyland. Injthe country you pre- serve your iden- tity, your person- ality. There you are an aggrega- tion of atoms, but in the city you are only an atom of an aggre- gation. — Robert G. Ingersoll. I HE "DtHlE* ON A U V/1 DAI In contemplation of created things By steps we may as cend to God. Milton. 92 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE SET FARM COTTAGE AS IT SOME SOUTHERN BERKSHIRE NOTA- BILITIES " Thanatopsis," were quarried from a mine of unequaled literary wealtli, and where the family name is still loyally honored and cherished. The icroll moves on. We see Fanny Kemble Butler, but recently passed from earth, as she was in the full vigor of her noted capabilities and capacities as an actress, a public reader, a poet, and an ardent admirer of nature, untrammeled by the popular chains of social conven- tionalities, as when reading in her marvel- ous tones of voice " Midsummer Night's Dream," to a packed and delighted au- dience in the old Berkshire county court- house, now Sedgwick hall, in Lenox; again accomplishing wonderful feats as an equestrienne along the highways, and even across fields and fences of Southern Berkshire, once reaching the top of Monument mountain on a snow-white ELAINE GOODALE (as a Child) THE LONGING HOUR A panorama of choice bits "Picturesque," the first word appearing on the title-page of this book, was never more appropriately used than when prefixed to that of " Berkshire," one of the most picturesque regions of country " held in the Hollow of His Hand." The designation, " Pic- turesque Berkshire," is, therefore, fully entitled to all that the combined phrase implies. Berkshire has easily won, and modestly wears, the descriptive des- ignation of " Picturesque," and presents its claims to this appellation pleasingly and acceptably to the world at large, or, at least, to so much of its people as have ever looked upon the scenic beauties which nature here spreads abroad with such fair and lavish hands. But while holding its natural charms — nay, it may be said while growing more and more beautiful from year to year and from day to day, even the changes that have occurred in its person- nel — in the rise and fall of gerierations that have come and gone, in turn, one who has roamed within sight of the Dome of the Taghkanics frequently, for nearly a half-century, looks upon the gathering cycle of Time here represented, as upon a panorama, of scenic beauty, charmingly combined with many celebrated Instances of personal character of strong individuality and important circumstance connected with Southern Berkshire life. These recall by the deft handiwork of the camera, the palette, the graver and the press, tender memories, all grouped in one amphithsetre of art in illustrated print, at once welcome and entertaining reminders in pictured display of some who still remain, and of many others who have been prominent ' factors in the growth and progress of Berkshire, but who have now passed on from their labors on earth, and "whose works do follow them" in pleasant and kindly remembrance. After a hurried examination of the photographs and sketches of subjects for illustrating Picturesque Berkshire, the half-closed doors of memory's halls swing wide open, affording a welcome op- portunity for looking within. At first a confused view can only see " men as trees walking," but closer/ inspection brings to sight those who could only be brought prominently forth by means of forging anew the links of memory's chains that bind the past to the present. Prominently pictured on the unfolding scroll of the panorama, on seats of liter- ary eminence, we see the poet Bryant crowned with well-earned laurels from the growth of both our national fields, and from the fields of the world, as well, not as pictured in paintings and sketches of his later years, but rather as when beginning to turn the leaves of the book of life he vowed to " love, honor and obey " the com- panion of both his early and later years, on the site where now stands the Berkshire Inn in Great Barrington, the building in which the vows of love and constancy were exchanged, being still kept in a good state of preservation, as an annex to the Inn, near where his masterpieces, "Monument Mountain," "Green River"and «J^J*iri SKY FAKM COTTAGE AS IT WAS Old Berkshire — her name makes the gentle tear drops start — Fond nurse of my childhood, dear home of my heart ! No scene so familiar, no landscape so kind As to blur that first picture graved deep on the mind. When fancy ran wild with her riotous brood, And mystery lurked in the unexplored wood, When the rill gushed a torrent, the rock towered so high, And the child world was bounded by mountain and sky ! Youth leaves us — Work beckons — reluctance is vain, And the child of the hill-top descends to the plain, Yet, no matter how sweetly life's voices are blent. There are moments that stir with a vague dis- content ; There are rare, lonely hours when he hears in his dreams Her breeze-burdened pines and her free flowing streams ; When a blessed mirage in the distance he sees — Her fair sloping meadows, her many-armed trees ! Then, Beautiful Berkshire, whatever his lot, Its hopes, and its cares, and its joys are forgot, And the pilgrim, the exile, whoever he be. Turns fondly once more to his childhood and thee! Elaine Goodale Eastman. DORA GOODALE (as a child) charger, where it was risky even for the foot of man to venture. Another turn of the scroll, and we see, as if in a faded daguerreotype, the mild, sweet face of Catherine Sedg- wick of Stockbridge, whose " Hope Leslie," " Married and Single " and other (iomestic tales, which were household words indeed when authors were few and books were scarce, as compared with the present day, when " of making books there- is no end;" followed closely by Mrs. Charles Sedgwick of Lenox, whose school for young ladies was one of the leading institutions of learning of her time, and who also ranked only a , little lower than the gifted wife of her brother in the scale of literary acquire- ment and ex- cellence. Th e open face of Nathan- iel Hawthorne meets our gaze with the same grace of per- sonality and modesty of bearing that was his wont when he penned a portion of his famous " Scar- let Letter," in a little cottage near the bor- oj,k of the koohs showk stkakqers PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 93 THE OLD SMITH PLACE, MOUNT WASHINGTON But the scroll unfolds rapidly, and space for de- scription narrows sensi- bly. We can only look hastily at Oliver Wendell Holmes, with the admi- rable bill of fare of his cheerful " Breakfast Table " under his arm ; Herman Melville with " Omoo " in one hand and "Typee" in the other; Charlotte Cushman as " Meg Merriles " in " Guy Mannering," or as "Julia " in "The Hunchback." Among the freshest of the pictures of those of liter- ary fame, we see the " Sky Farm " poets, Elaine and Dora Read Goodale, and their parents H. S. and Mrs.D. H.R. Goodale, from whom their poetical gen- ius is inherit- ed, and all of whom still re- main to fur- nish the read- ing public MOUNT KACE, FKOM MOUNT EVEKETT PROFILE ROCK— OLD MAN'S FACE — NEAR BASH BISH OLDEST CEMETERY IN THE COVNTT ders of Stockbridge Bowl, now modernized into Lake Mah- keenac, and where Stockbridge crowds Lenox to the wall, or rather draws the line between the two towns, almost within the center of the charmed circle, where some of the noted of Lenox's notables " most do congregate." Then comes G. P. R. James, who crossed the ocean to settle within the shadow of Monument mountain, in Stockbridge, and who, after purchasing a homestead and making preparations to build a fully crowned English residence and make America his home, tired of his investment and went back to his old home, without leaving.be. hind, as a memento of his brief residence in Berkshire, even one of his " solitary horsemen," who had been ;n the habit of prancing through all his novels. THE "PENNTKOVAL ARMS'' MILO SMITH AND Wlb'K ODILDEK'S FOND MOUNT EVERETT IN WINTER 94 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE with the products of their gifted and versatile pens. We see E. W. B. Canning of Stockbridge, who but recently laid down the burdens of life, and whose verse in pleasing and cheerful strains, alike with his prose contributions, were popular wherever known. While many of these have gone on beyond, the panorama would not furnish its full quota of those to whom literary honors are due, without mentioning a few of those who are still with us — Mrs. H. M. Plunkett, Anna L. Dawes and J. E. A. Smith, all of Pittsfield, and who are still active and useful in giving to the world the products of their never too prolific pens. The scroll pauses for a moment here, until some distinguished rep- resentatives of Southern Berkshire pulpits are before us. Among these we note Rev. Dr. John Todd, the almost life-long pastor of the First Congregational church of Pittsfield; Rev. James Bradford, of like length of service as pastor of the Sheffield Congregational church ; Rev. Alexander Hyde of Lee, eminent as preacher," teacher and local historian, followed far in the background of gathering years by Rev. Samuel Hopkins, the first Congregational minister of Great Barrington, and his successor, Rev. Sylvester Burt, also of long-time service ; Rev. Orville Dewey, born and buried in Sheffield, who won much fame as a scholar and devot- ed pastor' of Unitarian fame, for many years, in New York city ; Henry Ward Beecher, whose local habitation was in Brooklyn, while his field was the wide, wide worlds and who wrote his famous " Star Papers" and "Norwood," a work J of fiction, while a summer resident f_ of Lenox ; Rev. C, Edwards Lester, ELEOTIOK DAY AT MOrsT WASHlNrtTON author of " The Glory and Shame of England," once pastor of the West Stock- bridge Congregational church, and Rev. J. T. Headley, traveler and author of fame and merit and an intimate friend and companion of Mr. Lester, often exchanging services with each other during his pastorate in Spencertown, N. Y., an adjoin- ing town of West Stockbridge, with Mr. Headley's foster father, the noted blind preacher. Rev. Timothy Woodbridge. Once more a halt, and then some prominent characters in connection with political place and preferment appear, including Hon. George N. Briggs of Pittsfield, a former governor of Massachusetts and who went through all the years of his official life without wearing a shirt collar ; Hon. George Hull of Sandisfield, once lieutenant gov- ernor of the same state; Hon. Lester Filley of Otis, prominent in both legal and political circles, state senator, etc.; Hon. Henry W. Bishop of Lenox, an eminent law- yer and politician ; Hon. Increase Sumner of Great Barrington, of great learning and brusque man- ners; Hon. John Z. Goodrich of Stockbridge; Hon. H. L. Dawes, Hon. F. W. Rockwell and Hon. John C. Crosby of Pittsfield, who to- gether have rounded out nearly half a century of congressional honors from the Western district of Massa- chusetts, Mr. Dawes also holding a seat in the Senate of the United States three terms of six years each. A change of scene, and groups of distinguished families appear, among whom we see the Field family — Rev. David Dudley Field, for a long time pastor of the Con- gregational church in Stockbridge and his son, David Dudley Field, still in the active conduct of his (Continued on page 96) PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 95 DOES FARMING PAY? An Exhibit of the Theory and Practice of Enos Hard- hack, Before the Saughconic Farmers' Club Reprinted from Harper's ATa^axine of October, jSSo. New Ulustr'ations by Walter Cox, Copyright reserved by the Author Wa'aJ, brother farmers, these is cur'ous days T' think o' askin' one ef f armin' pays ! I aint no hand to write, but, ez ye please, I'll try to I'arn ye some o' my ideas. They'll be disj'inted, but yew switch me back When I get runnin' on another track. Doos f armin' pay? It sartin doos pay me. Ti this I calc'late yew will have t' 'gree. I bought thet Guilder farm, some on ye know, Thirty odd year ago, an' bought it low. Both farm an' I ez poor — ez poor ez crows When they air moultin'. Darn it all ! I s'pose They wa'n't a fence them days on thet hull farm 'Ould keep the tarnel critters aout o' harm ; An stun ! haow 'mazin' thick they did crop aout. Fac' trooth they wuz the on'y crop abaout ! The weeds fit everythin' thet gut a stan'. An' alius 'pieared t' hev th' upper han'. Yew better b'lieve them fust five year 'r so I hed a pooty tejus row to hoe. I didn't set daown, much, t' make a plan ; I didn't stan' raoun' like a hired man ; Coat off, 'n' sleeves peeled up, I pitched in rough. An' made work fly — the days wa'n't long enough ; I jerked them blasted stun aout like Ole Nick. They grow'd up inter fences 'mazin' quick : They're there, jest five foot high 'n' four foot thick ! Wa'al, soon ez I hed finished up wall-layin', I bought a jumpin' steer (paid work in hayin'). Put 'im in pastur', 'n' he hed ter stay in ; I swapped some rails an' gut two likely caows, Slickt up my barn Jn' sheds, 'n' patched th' haouse, Meantimes the corn an' taters wuz a-growin'. An' when the hendy moon-lit nights come on. An' other boys wuz sparkin', / wuz hoein'. Still, I own up, I wa'n't contented, quite. Them caows come inter milk, an' gin a sight. Farm, dairy, house-work, proved a'most too much. I tried it on till I got tuckered aout. Then gut a hired gal t' do some sech (It cost a dollar a week 'n' f aound, abaout), Sech waste, sech sars, sech shif'less ways she acted. It druv me fairly ravin' an' distracted! I couldn't Stan' it long; I hadn't orter ; So daown I goes t' see Miss Bills's dorter. They ast me in, 'n' kep' me there t' tea. I guessed the widder's place wuz morgidge free ; I knowed thet Hanner wuz alfired smart; An' so — I made a tendry uv my heart. She tuk me up. I never rued that day, An' Square Betts tied us fast withaout delay. I sort o' linger on them airly days, Tho' thet don't 'zac'ly show haow farmin' pays. With Hanner hitched a raousin' team we made ; Didn't craowd 'n' haul — pulled square. We wa'n' t afrai d T' work, up hill 'r daown, in any weather. We scraped an' saved, 'n' saved 'n' scraped, together, But scrimpin' never pays on stock, ye know : Cob-meal is fillin', but yer pigs don't grow. Feed crops an' critters well ; depend upon't. They'll feed yew bread. But don't spect 'lasses on't. Jes' crawl afore ye run, 'r, sure's yer born, Bimeby yew'll crawl — the slim eend uv the horn ! Thet tells the story haow, in six short year, I'd built new barns an' g^t the humstead clear. Uv course I didn't take the papers much, Ner waste my time on farmin' books 'n such. Fine city chaps who don't know " Haw " from " Gee " Needn't talk their agricultooral voos t' me. Ef they believe in ten-inch ploughin', let 'em; They'll never see it on my farm, I'll bet 'em ; Ef they like buryin' pipes, w'y, let 'em try it, An' dreen their land — 'n' dreen their pockets by it. Let 'em keep Jarseys, let 'em see the folly — They don't sell me their high-priced calves, by golly ! I swow I'm willin' they should " s'il " and " steam," An' bring up Short-horn bulls on Jarsey cream. Yis, yis, Pm willin' ; let 'em ; but I swan It makes me sick t' see sech goin's on. Naow I tell yew, t' fin' what farmin' pays, Jest come clus hum ; study yer neighbor's ways. Look et — we wun't be pus'nal — call him Black: No fence, no critters, nothin' — dretful slack! Huntin' an' fishin' w'ile things go t' rack : A sportin' farmer 'z baoun' t' be — a shack. An' then there's White ; he's one o' yer stiddy kin' ; Looks aout ahead, an' never runs behin' ; Follers his plaough, perdooces corn 'n' taters ; He don't resk nothin' 'ith them speckleaters. Gold up er daown, he hain't no call t' worry; They wun't git red o' his'n in a hurry. No, no. White's keerful ; Tarns us suthin', r'aly ; Wun't drive a hoss t' death he hopes t' sell ye ; But drives a bargain pooty keen, I tell ye. Green — wonder ef ye know wut's ailin' Green ? He works like blazes, fur ez I hev seen; No better farm 'n' his'n in Saughconic, Er savin'r wife from Kersnop to Hustonic; Sober 'z a deacon on a Sabba'-day — Can't tell rye from Jamaiker, so they say ; Stays to his hum ; lives low. Wut hinders, naow, Thet Green c-a-n-'t git a livin' et th' plaough ? Wa'al, we've hed dealin's some; I'll tell ye then — No jedgment, more'n a settin' Brahmer hen. An' thet's the nub on't. E£ ye plan ez he doos, Yer poor ez Laz'rus wuz — whoever he wuz. Don't know Brown much, ner mean ter — grumpy feller ! All his hard cider couldn't make him meller; But they du say he's savin' up at las', Supplyin' village folks with gardin' sass ; He'd orter lay some by, fer yew may bet He don't fool much on't off t' pay a debt — Owes me three shillin'. Wa'al, it ain't no gre't. Le's look et Grey ; wust thing 'baout Grey is — books ; Grey reads t' much, 'n' keers t' much fer looks ; Believes in puttin' picturs up in haouses. An' puts on airs, 'n' dassn't wear patched traouses ; Ef 'twa'n't fer money lef him, goodness knows He might be naow a-wearin' poor-'aouse clo'es. Wa'al, nut thet I've gut anythin' agin 'im, On'y I du say they ain't nothin' in 'im ; No dicker in 'im, sartin — not a hooter ; C-a-n-'t swop 'n' make a cent — a cent o' pooter. Sech farmers scarcely make the salt they're eatin' ; They 'pear t' think thet hag'lin's 'z bad ez cheatin' ; Mebby it is ; ef thet's the way t' figger. We'd ciphered aout aour jail a leetle bigger High-Sheriff Root — he'd jist rej'ice t' du it, App'int more depooties, an' put us thru it. Ha! wa'al, wa'al, it takes all kin's o' folks, abaout, T' make a warld. I've guessed the reason aout. Time wuz I wished some on 'em hadn't come Till arter I wuz borned, an' dead, I vum ! Ye see, these puzzlin' p'ints I understan' Sence they made ch'ice o' me fer 6V-lec'man. Can't all on us be rulers — sakes alive ! 'Twun't work t' hev all king-bees in a hive. Dung 'em an' cultivate 'em ez ye will, The's alluz some small taters in a hill. An', p'int o' fac', yer sWiall-p'tater men Will kin' o' work t' th' bottom uv the ben. Naow le's go back t' Guilder farm once more. We worked ten year much like we did afore. We gut a fam'ly, not by no means small. An' crops an' barns grew fatter ev'ry fall. The widder lef us — kin' o' sudden shock. She lef poor Hanner all her Harlem stock. It went up t' one-ten, 'n' then I sol' it ; One-thirty sence — a fool I didn't hoi' it. Them Yorkers come in thick, 'n' haow Ian' riz ! They air some good, I tell ye wut it is. Rich s'il t' sech chaps ain't no consequence Ner ain't clean crops, ner ain't a nine-rail fence. Wut tickles them is traouts 'n' shutin', lots ; Nice air, red claouds, 'n' awful sightly spots ; Yer poorest pastur' hill where wind is ha'sh, More'n likely is the one thet takes their cash. But naow them days come on wut teched my pride ; Hanner got off the hooks, an' up an' died. Thet wuz a durn hard blow. I jes clean lost The smartest help I ever come acrost. I vow ! I thought I'd ruther 'twould ha' ben My twenty head o' fattin' steer. But then She'd gut the young uns pooty well along ; The h'use-work wa'n't a-pressin' quite s' strong ; Aour Jane could cook fer men, 'n' wait upon 'em, 'N' Silas hoe his row 'ith any on 'em; Might ha' ben wuss ; but this ere loss, ye see, Wuz suthin' more 'an money aout t' me. I sot gre't store by her ; it's kin' o' queer. My farm-work kep' some back' ard all thet year; I foun', too, long afore the grave wuz sodded, Jane couldn't make sech puddins ez her ma did. Yis, mor'n three months I tuk on like all natur' ; But 'twa'n't no use ; I knew thet soon er later I'd gut t' make the best on't. I did so. An' merried Lyddy Runnels, ez ye know. She ain't like Hanner wuz, but hez good p'ints. An' does her work up slick, but can't break j'ints, An' stop up leaks ; 'n' so the farm don't pay Not nigh so strong ez't didin Hanner's day. T' show ye, naow she's hed some posies come An' wastes her val'able time a-tendin' 'em. Naow blows thet don't bring fruit, t' my idee, Air wuthless, even ef ye git 'emfree. ■ --- An' so I tell her; don't du any good ; She'd craowd my onions with 'em, if she could; I hain't a daoubt, she'd chuse a posy bed Afore a bed patch o' solid kebbedge head. Wust on it is, my gals I'arn arter her — C-a-n-'t go t' meetin', 'n' c-a-n-'t hardly stir, 'Ithout admirin' suthin' , I declare, Thet ain't no arthly 'caount t' eat 'r wear. Sech conduc's sinful, 'n' thet's wut / say : Live clus, an' lay by fer a rainy day. Yis, brother farmers, it's the good ol' way: Workin' an' S^vin', the^ makes farmin' pay. Henry S. Goodale^ q6 picturesque (CONTINUED FROM PAGE 94) professional life as counselor at law in New York city, at ninety years of age; Stephen J. Field, chief justice of the United States Supreme Court; the late Cyrus W. Field, who found fame and fortune " when Cyrus laid the cable," the first electrical connection between the Old and New Worlds, and also the first sub- marine cable ever laid; Rev. Henry M. Field, of wide and well-earned fame as preacher, author, traveler and editor of the New York Evangelist; the late Jonathan E. Field, an attorney of prominence in his day, and father of Stephen D. Field, of great native genius and success in the electrical world of to-day ; the late Matthew D. Field, who chose a quieter and less exciting business as tiller of the soil in Southwick, Mass. In a quiet corner of the scroll we see the Dewey family of Sheffield, embracing Rev. Orville Dewey, before mentioned. Prof. Chester Dewey of Rochester New York University, and Mary E. Dewey, who was for many years at the head of a note- worthy and successful school for young ladies, held in the St. David's Dewey home- stead, where she still makes her home, and occasionally favors the public with the products of her pen, which are always ex- cellent specimens of good English and sound sentiment. Near this group may be seen Hon. F. A. P. Barnard, the long-time president of New York's Columbia col- lege, and his brother, the late Gen. J. G. Barnard, both of Sheffield birth and ancestry. The scroll moves more and more rapidly, and we only catch sight of. a miscellaneous crowd, among whom press forward ex- Governor Edwin D. Morgan of. New York, long-time resident of the " hill town " of the Stockbridge Sedgwicks and Dwights of honorable lineage and much public prominence ; the Burts of San- disfield in large numbers, whose shoes have a name and place of great excellence even at the present day; the KMTUANCE TO BASH BISI-I a native and Washington ; BERKSHIRE prominently connected with the iron industry, Isaac Seeley, a noted accountant, afterwards postmaster and register of deeds, all of Great Barrington ; the late George R. Ives, who gave Great Barrington its first notoriety, in building tne Berkshire house, one of the few famed hostleries of the country half a century ago, but which has recently lost its identity in the new and enlarged Berkshire Inn ; the late J. D. Gushing, founder and long-time publisher of the Berkshire Couriers the late C. C. Alger, founder of the Stockbridge Iron Works, now entirely obliter- ated, once located near Housatonic village ; Owen & Hurlbut of South Lee, paper manufacturers of much position and excellent reputation from 1822 on to the present time, with divisions and changes that have resulted in one of the largest paper manufacturing establishments of the country — the Hurlbut Paper Company; Platner & Smith at Lee, who with Owen & Huribut and D. & J. Ames of Springfield, for many years made nine-tenths of the writing paper of our country ; the late Phinehas Allen, who alone established the Pittsfield Sun, and with his son, Phinehas, also deceased, conducted it for many years in connection with the book business in Pittsfield. Too prominently engraved on the tablets of memory to pass by unmentioned appear the names of Misses Sarah, Nancy and Mary Kellogg, whose Great Barrington seminary for young ladies had world-wide reputation and wonderful success in its palmy days; James Sedgwick, for many years principal of the Great Barrington academy, Marshall Warner of Glendale, Jared Read of Stock- bridge, and Rev. Alexander Hyde of Lee, whose schools for boys ranked high among other institutions where the ladder of learning was successfully climbed — all now deceased. The space allotted for this paper forbids further detail, although names without number could be recalled with a little thought, of those who have been prominently connected with the active life of Southern Berkshire, during all the years of the last half-century, and while I must not particularize farther, I cannot turn the scroll of memory before me, without looking at Elihu Burritt, who hammered iron by day, and obtained his education in study A MILL ON a'HK DOUGLASS EoiAiIi Ensigns of Sheffield, who were held in high estima- tion in official and legal circles; the -Dewey s of Alford, now represented before the world by Judge Justin Dewey of Spring- field and the Massachu- setts Superior Court: Merchants Buell & Shel- don, and the Friedleys and Fuarys of West Stockbridge, of fame and prominence in the forties, fifties and sixties, the first as successful country store keepers who were held in high regard throughout all the region round about, and the two latter, noted men, who quarried marble and sent it almost to the ends of the earth; the Plunketts of Pittsfield, Hinsdale and Adams, successful manu- facturers, merchants and eminent in life insurance circles ; Hinsdales and Kitt- regdes of Hinsdale; Pomeroys, Pollocks and Learneds of Pittsfield; Cranes, Carsons and Westons of Dalton* who have always held a proud position as leading paper manufacturers of our country and of the world at large, as well. Of memorable and notable business leaders all along the way, we must not fold the scroll until we may see such men as A. C. & J. C. Russell, better known for a long series of years as the Berkshire Woolen Company, John H. Coffing, ItAVlBE AT BASH BlBil by the light of his forges at night, in a little unpainted black- smith's shop in the quiet village of New Marlboro. Northern Berk- shire, too, has had and still has an equally fruitful field from which to glean inter- esting reminiscence, but the story should be told by some one whose acquaintance- ship and intimacies have been acquired by actual residence near unto or in sight of Greylock, as mine have been from long sojournings within easy reach of the Dome of the Tagh- kanics. BASH BISH I'-ALLS BRIDGE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE What I have mentioned, although but a tithe of what might be added "in the same subject con- tinued," tells, without further comment, the simple story of why the hills and homes of Berkshire have become so famous as to cause a popular de- mand for what is here presented — Picturesque Berkshire. Clark W. Bryan. SECOND FALL AT SAGE'S KAVINE Sage's Ravine and " Bash Bish " Compared. — Henry Ward Beecher, in his " Star Papers," thus refers to the two principal natural attractions of the southwestern part of the county : " Sage's Ravine is the antithesis of Bash Bish. Sage's Ravine, not without grandeur, has its principal attractions in its beauty; Bash Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet most remarkable for grandeur. Both are solitary, rugged, full of rocks, cascades, grand waterfalls, and a savage rude- ness tempered to beauty and softness by various and abundant mosses, lichens, flowers, and vines. I would will- ingly make the journey once a month from New York to see either of them." A MOUNTAIN CLIMB An agreeable excursion from Sheffield is the ascent of the beautiful mountain which broods with wide-stretched wings over the Housatonic valley at that point, and lends an element of strong 97 tiqn, thought fit some fifty years ago to clap a new name upon this venerable pile, setting it down on maps and charts as Mount Everett, which, although a good name in itself, and commemorative of a great orator, is yet absurd and impertinent for the rebaptism of a mountain. One can imagine the crags drawing back from the scientific front like thi old Scandinavian chief, who preferred being damned with his ancestors to going to glory under a new name and with unknown associates. .'The young and strong can climb Taghkonic on foot from the very base, but most people choose the roundabout carriage road for the greater part of the way, and reserve their legs for the final ascent, ^yhere nothing else can avail them. The drive itself is a great delight, and best of all in the latter part of June, when the mountain laurel . ' (Continued on page loo) THE DOUGLASS COTTAGE AND GROUNDS and assured peace to the landscape. The people near about call it the High Peak, a name expressing rather respect for its altitude than appreciation of its gently rounded form, and the dwellers in Stock- bridge and Lenox, as they see its calm height on their southern horizon, speak of it as the Dome, ■- or the Dome of the Taghkonics, but they who Tiave loved it long and well in Sheffield call it simply Taghkonic, the name given it ages ago by the Indian tribes, who have so vanished from their ancient homes that their nomenclature is almost their only memorial. The preservation of sucli relics of a past time and people is of great interest to the archseologist as well as the poet, and for the sake both of science and sentiment, it is un- fortunate that modern geologists, ignoring tradi- UPPEE FALL AT SAGE'S RAVINE A FALL SEAR BEAK KOCK Look Nature tlirough, 'tis revolu- tion all ; All changed ; no death. Day fol- lows night, and night The dying day ; stars rise, and set, and rise ; Earth takes th' example. See, the Summer gay With her green chaplet and ambro- sial flowers, Droops into pallid Autumn; Win- ter, gray, Hoared with frost, and turbulent with storm, Blows Autumn, with his golden fruits, away, Then melts into Spring; — soft Spring, with breath Favonian, from warm chambers of the south, Recalls the first. All to re-flour- ish, fades ; As in n wheel, all sinks, to re- ascend. Emblems of man, who passes, not expires. JUST OVER THE LINE 98 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE BERKSHIRE SO BONNY ■ Ohj Berkshire, so bonny ! With wild g:len and stream — With the billowy hill sweep, The shadow and gleam ! Oh, sunshine and summer! How sweet ye will seem, When ye come back again In the light of a dream ! When the snow whirls in drifts, As the wijd nortliern gust, Wheiithe sweet wild-wood flowers Are ashes and dust — Oh, brighter than ever Thy beauties shall rise, , A fair summer vision, . To gladden my eyes — Fair June on the hills. And a smile in the skies. Anon. Erf^A^l^'W^- ^s^MLV.lil^^'bE Aie-* »£.r .i— V BASH BISH FALLS FALLS OF THE BASH BISH High pacing clouds around Taconic sweep. Losing their vaporous bodies in her hills ; Down whose rough sides the newborn waters leap. Breaking in light cascades and sparkling rills, Till many streamlets one broad current fills That through a gorge its mazy way hath found With murmuring voice that soothing thought instills Till where a chasm yawns beneath profound. It leaps 'a rocky ledge with one delicious bound. • { Rolling and tumbling down its rocky bed, Onward the struggling water cleaves its way, Roundjfallen trees, through mimic caverns led O'er jutting rocks dashing the foaming spray Now wreathed in shapes fantastically gay ; Now torn, distracted, writhing as in pain. Wandering as if it knew not where to, stray. Then, like a charger managed by the rein, Gathering its scattered strength, it leaps a chasm again. PREPARING TO FLOAT AND FISH B.VSH BISH BUOQK: THE BASH-A-BISH ■THE DODGLASS COTTAGE Bash-a-Bish, daughter of rough old Taconic, Sleeping with Winter's cold hand on her lips. Hears the dfeep murmur of far Housatonic, Waves her white arms and to seaward she slips ; Gem of the Berkshire hills. Queen of a thousand rills, Joy to the forest her gay laughter brings — Low bend the stately trees. Hushed is the passing breeze. Summer will come if the Bash-a-Bish sings. High on the mountain side-'lbw in the meadow. Ever impatiently seeking the sea, Here in the sunshine, and there in the shadow. Maker of marvelous music is she ; Fern-fringed the rocky ledge, Moss-hung the inisty 6dge, Quiver the junipers over the brink — Wrapped in a fleecy shroud White as the summer cloud Bash-a-Bish plunges, in crystal to sink. Siren of Solitude ! ever her singing Follows the wanderer, distant afar, Unbidden memory, quietly bringing Dreams of a day that no future can mar Welcome her song of cheer Ringing so sweet and clear. Woven fast into the web of our lives ; Heard in the glare of light. Heard in the hush of night. Heaven's benediction the Bash-a-Bish gives. Laura Sanderson. AMONG THE BERKSHIRE HILLS I cUmbed a rugged mounta,in decked with trees. Towards heaven toiling painfully and slow. And ever stronger grew the playful breeze That laughing softly beat the saplings low. Upward, still upward, over black ravines. Clutching at thorny vines and jutting spurs, I struggled towards the peak where from grand scenes Burst, like a dream, on nature's worshipers. The Swiss may boast of towering mounts of snow. With Alpine wild flowers cowering on their breasts ; Fair France may be exultatitin the glow Of sunny vales and vine-becrowned crests. FALLS AT SAGE'S RAVINE Oh, wondrous hill, from whose exalted brow I watched far, sky-loved mountains, and the yale Through which, Uke silver serpent, then and now, A living river shone with splendor pale ; But, Berkshire Hills, your loveliness need fear Nor Gallic plains nor Switzers' world-famed mounts. More fair, more free, your beauty bloometh here. Than all the charms that Europe proudly counts. Frederic Allison Tupper. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 99 SOME PECULIAR CHARACTERS Every section of the country doubtless has boasted, at one time or another, of one or more peculiar and eccentric characters, or uncouth, wild or uncanny people, and Berkshire has been no exception to the rule. To recite the incidents connected with even a few of these individuals would require some time, and space would be filled in such a book as Pictur- esque Berk- shire at an alarming rate. Yet I am urged to tell a few stories. When in youthful dreams I wander, no more pictur- esque character stands before me than a man whom I will call "Jake," for short. He was one of those peculiar people, without educa- tion, whose dia- lect is unwritten, and whose ori- gin was— well, nobody knows where. As "Topsy" said, they must have" just growed." "Jake" was in the vicinity of sixty years of age when I knew him best, and lived alone in a log cabin on a lone- ly road that skirted along the mountain-side. He was very indo- lent and had no visible means of support except a fishing pole, a tin pail, and an old six-footer English fowling piece, all of which it was his invariable custom to carry with him when away from home. He was followed by a white and yellow spotted hound, the ears and tail of which were his most prominent points. Altogether, "Jake" was not, when fully equipped for a for- aging expedition, a person calcula- ted to inspire one with confidence as to the advancement of civiliza- tion. I remember well that children did not care to meet the man at a distance of more than five rods from a house, when going to and from school. One morning in the late autumn, " Jake " called at the home of a farmer, for a friendly chat and an opportunity to toast his shins at a civilized kitchen fire, when the farmer took the opportunity to ask him some questions concerning his health, prospects for the winter, the condition of his larder, etc., knowing that the previous winter had been a hard one for "Jake." The fellow replied," Veil, I haf laid me down a bar'l of goot fat woodchucks, an' a bar'l of goot fat skunks, an' ef I can't lif better this winter as I did las' I'd's Jief go to heaven's t' ! " " Dick " was another character whose lean, angular form and pleasant features I vividly remember. He, too, was a man without learning, but what he lacked in education he made up by showing the seeming use- lessness of it to himself, through his most ludicrous stammering. It was his custom to visit neighboring villages with a handcart. This was his only means of conveying supplies to a large family of children, at stated periods, and it also generally carried a liberal quantity of fiery fluid, which he used, not to lubricate the axles of his cart, but his throat, very frequently. At one time, when on his homeward journey, he was overtaken by two of his neighbors, farm- ers, who were driving a spirited pair of horses, and he was in- vited to fasten his cart to the rearof the wagon and to get into the cart, which he seemed glad to do. After jog- ging along for a mile or two, the farmers, occupying a seat side by side in the front of the wagon, conceived the idea of treating " Dick " to a little variety of locomotion. There was a short turn in the road a little distance ahead, and they whipped up and soon brought he horses into a 2.47 gait. As they reached the bend in the road, both horses on a run, "Dick" was seated in the bottom of his cart, a hand grasping each side of it, toes straight up and face very small compared with the size of his eyes. One wheel of the cart was strain- ing every joint in its endeavor to keep up with the wagon and co-operate in sustaining the weight which belonged to its mate, which was whirling in mid-air; while " Dick " shouted, " D-d-d-d-d-d-" — but they had rounded the curve, and the cart had assumed its //h ' Gentlemen, we must have less order * D-d-d-donH drive so fast natural position before " Dick " had time to say " Don't drive so fast!" Jack P was one whose English seemed to be at variance with those of our college professors, and he was wont to use words which had no meaning, or which he did not know the significance of. Because of his readiness to freely express his opinions he was elected constable at a town meeting, and the " house " becoming rather bois- terous. Jack was called upon by the moderator to preserve order, where- upon he mounted a seat and shout- ed, " Now see here, boys, we must have less order ! " In relating an incident connected with his do- mestic affairs. Jack said, " My wife has got the immaterial for a new dress and four dozen buttons that she is going to extribute all over the front." People who reside in rural districts are not less favored in their inclinations to dab- ble in a little law than those who are locate,d in the cities, and I am reminded of Mr. S , a thrifty farmer, living one time on the under-moun- tain road, who had been sued for some imaginable or petty offence, by neighbors less favored in the accumulation of this world's goods, and the case was to be tried at B , a distance of ten miles. On the morning of the trial Mr. S called upon the neighbor in question, the plaintiff, and inquired if. he had secured conveyance to the seat of justice, for him- self and witnesses, which he learned were the wife, three or four . grown-up daughters and a son. Upon being informed that they expected to walk, Mr.-S , the defendant, being a man of kindly disposition, courteously offered them the privilege and pleasure of a ride with him behind a pair of fine dapple-greys, an offer which was quickly accepted ! 'After breakfast Mr. S— ^ harnessed his horses to the farm wagon and drove over after the litigant family. As most of the party were women he insisted that it would be unbe- coming to ride without seats, and he thei-efore suggest- ed that each member bring a chair and place it in the wagon, which was accordingly done, and the happy family enjoyed, probably, their first ride for years. When B was reached, the case was called, and as Mr. S had no witnesses, the case was decided against him, through simple pre- ponderance of evidence. After transacting some other business he went to the place where his horses were tied, and found the plaintiff- neighbor and all his witnesses — the family — cosily seated and im- patiently waiting for the homeward ride. This was something like " riding a free horse to death," and whether Mr. S so decided or not, a limit had been reached in his good nature, his manner had chang- ed since morning, and he sternly ordered each member of the family to get out of the wagon, take out his chair and walk home, which — as they could do no better^ it is heedless to say they did, carrying their chairs with them. George S. Whitbeck. • TAKING ANOTHER GOHVETANCE UOUE I GO PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE APPROACHING^ EGREMOST FROM THE SOUTH de-lis, which lends its patrician grace to these poor surroundings with true French adaptability, and patiently bears its emigrant name of flower-de-luce. The men are already in the fields, but the women turn from their early work to look at you through the open doors, and the children, with sun-bleached hair and bare feet, peep and peer at you as you pass. Soon a.11 sight of human habitation disappears and you enter the shade of great oaks and chestnuts ; the mountain begins to enfold you, and here you will do well to send the wagon forward to await you at a spring half-way up the ravine, and, staying till it is out of hearing, walk on in the enchanted solitude to which it will leave you. The great walls of forest rise on either hand; far below on the left, the brook whose waters originally carved this huge cleft in the hillside, tinkles and plashes over its stony path; looking across, the dark pines, stern amid the summer trees whose soft value they accentuate, " Fledge the wild ridged mountains steep by steep," and looking back the wide horizon to the northeast begins to gleam through the large HAKMON POND, NEAR SCENE OF SHATS FIGHT A VIEW AT EGREMONT /% HMl, - • i I « ftfe&^ik^SA. THE BL'SINBSS CENTER, SOUTH EGREMONT VIEW NEAR THE MOUNT EVRKETT HOUSE portals, with its tender azure shades of distance, so relieved by the vigorous foreground as to seem almost as if they belonged to another planet. All around is luxuriant foliage. Between the ferns and vines and mosses on the ground, and the stately growth of maple and beech, chestnut, hickory, elm and oak overhead is the endless profusion of rich, intermingled un- dergrowth that catches and reflects, with myriad forms and shades of verdure, the flickering light that A MOUNTAIN CLIMB (Continued from page 97) (kalmia latifolia) is in blossom. In an open wagon, with strong horses, and starting soon after sunrise, so as to taste the first delicious freshness of the day and see the unwonted revela- tions of the slant early rays from the east, you drive six or seven miles through a lovely country to Guilder Hollow, where the long mountain road begins to climb steadily upward through a wooded ravine. At first there are a few houses by the,wayside, small cabins with each its pa^ch of oats and corn and potatoes, its strag- gling orchard and its scanty garden, where, nevertheless, you are sure to see a few sunflowers, a rosebush or two, and perhaps a tuft of the fleur- 1 VIEW FROM THE ACADEMY. SOUTH EGREMONT CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE lOI Sky Farm, the picturesque old house where the Goodale sisters nourished their young poetic dreams, and wrote "Apple-blossoms." This part of the mountain is the township, for it cannot be called the village of Mount Wash- ington, and it is difficult to conceive a less attractive district. Raised two thousand feet from the sea, the crests around it look like low hills, andit is simply a very dull bit of country. Yet, as a base for fine excur- sions on every side, and on ac- count of its re- markably pure and invigorat- A HOUSE WITH A HISTORY THE OLD ACAT^EUY '^LOOKlNG SOUTH BKI.OW I-'ACTORT, SOUTH EGKEMOST falls through the green roof above. Along the path, and far in the deep recesses of the forest, shine the splendid blossoms of the laurel in pink or white masses, some- times sheeting a whole hill- side with rosy foam under the tall trees, and then tempting you close at hand with magnificent globed clusters of beautiful flowers and vase-shaped buds, set in a frame of what Bryant called — " The laurel's fair, Imperial leaf." The dewy freshness of morning i§ upon everything, the sweet breath of the woods bears ineffable ecstasy to the sense, and the tonic of the upland air begins to brace each nerve. The wayside spring is soon reached, and a draught of its delicious water prepares man and beast for the toil be- yond. Two or three miles more of moderate as- cent through the forest bring the traveler to a broad piece of table- land, where houses and farms reappear. The first of these is THE JIOUNT EVERETT HOCPE DISTBTCT SCHOOL AN AUTUMN DAY ON MAIN STREET I A ', «^** ,^^^:!*! VIEW NEAE THE BUSINESS CENTER THB AXLE FACTORY 102 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE LOOKING NORTH FROM THE IRON BRIDGE, SOUTH EGREMOKT MAIN STI:KET AND ROAD TO HILLSDALE, NORTH EGREMONT ing atmosphere, it draws a crowd of sjum- mer boarders, and the old farmhouses swarm with people in big hats and carry- ing long walking sticks. For two or three miles you drive through this very uninter- esting region, seeing indeed the Dome be- fore you, but deprived of all its majesty, it looking merely Tike a big rocky hill. The sun begins to be hot, and you would begin to fancy yourself tired, were it not for the astonishing energy which you in- spire with every breath of the wonderful air. Suddenly you turn through bars into the very worst road you ever saw, all rocks and holes, and you jolt and pitch through the woods for a couple of miles, till a grassy glade invites you to rest, and Tl MAIN STREET, NORTH JIGREMONT through the whole length of Berkshire to Greylock and the mountains of Ver- mont. On the east is the fertile Hous- atonic valley, with villages set along the banks of its winding river, and roll- ing hills beyond. To the south, with the beautiful Salisbury lakes for a fore- ground, the eye ranges far over quiet Connecticut, while looking westward the ample valley of the Hudson unrolls its luxuriance, bounded by the delicate sky- line of the Catskills, on whose pale-blue front the Mountain house shows like a white speck, and on the river below, gleam- ing here and there through the distance, you may perhaps distinguish the smoke of a passing stearnboat. TTie Adirondacks Rapt into still communion that transcends The imperfect offices of prayer and praise, His mind was a thanksgiving: to the power That made him ; it was bless- edness and love I " Taghkonic is three thousand feet above tide water, and two thousand three hundred feet higher than Shefifield. From its isolated position, it com- mands a larger tract of country than many loftier summits. You look north BAPTIST CHURCH MONDAY IN NORTH EGREMONT " Half the world is in the tubs, Or on the lines adrying." to unpack the timely baskets which have lain perdue all this while in the wagon. Never did luncheon taste so good as this woodland feast, and it gives you courage in good time, for now begins the tug of war. . The horses are tethered, all impediments left be- hind, and you set your breast to a steep, narrow path, twisting among rocks, where you use your hands about as much as your feet. It is called half a mile to the summit, but by the time you get there you will vow you have scrambled two miles, and every joint will have had a share in the work. There is little or no view on the way, because it runs through a thick growth of low birches at first, and higher up, is shut in by scrub oak and dwarfed pines, but near the top there is one glorious burst of vision from a jutting crag to the east, and when, hurrying on, you stand upon the bare rocks of the highest point, and see the immense horizon on every side and the far-spread glory of the firmament above, all fatigue is forgotten, sensation is lost, and your whole soul is lifted up in awe and reverent joy. You are alone, though in a crowd, and feel admitted to the secrets of eternal life. Wordsworth has given voice to stich emotion — " In such access of 'mind, in such high hour Of visitation from the living God, Tho't was not ; in enjoyment it expired. No thanks he breathed, he proffered no request ; loom farther north, and the Sha- wangunk mountains show faint and low down the valley. You are too high and everything is too re- mote for picturesque effect, but for the grand, uplifting sense of vast infinitude and for the exhilarating thrill that runs through the veins of the true mountain lover on reach- ing a commanding height, few places are better than the solitary crest of Taghkonic. Mary E. Dewey. METHODIST CHURCH How various his employments, whom the world Calls idle, and who justly in return Esteems that world a busy idler to Friends, books, a garden, and perhaps his pen, Delightful industry enjoyed at home. And Nature in her cultivated trim, Dress'd to his taste, inviting him abroad. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 103 THE LINE OF BBAUTr IK THE HIGHWAY — ALPORD NOT "TO THE MANOR BORN" A Mount Washington boy, who years ago drove teams for the city boarders in that town, and showed them about generally over that wonderfully picturesque region, tells many funny stories of his experiences with those whose lives were mostly spent within sight only of the brick and stone walls of the metropolis. Once he noticed that a party in his charge were very much attracted by the antics of a rampant bull in a pasture on their route, and he had little difficulty in overhearing remarks of more than ordinary interest, it may be imagined, to a country youth : " Mamma," said a young lady, after a long study of the ferocious animal, " is that a bull ?" "Mamma" adjusted her eyeglasses, and after a long, critical stare at his Taurian majesty, said, with an agonizing drawl, " N-0-0, my deah, that is a gentleman cow ! " The coachman of one of the New York parties was a handsome, sturdy Irishman, "right ABIT OF WOODLAND — ALFOBD ALONG THE SEEHOKK — ALFOKD A GLIMPSE BT THE ROADSIDE from Cork." He was a fine specimen of athletic manhood, and one day, walking out with our country boy, he proposed a swim in the river whose banks they were resting upon. " I have na had a shwim since I left Cork," said Pat. No sooner proposed than both were divesting themselves of their clothes, but the Irishman was soonest at the water and striking for the opposite shore, with magnificent, powerful strokes. Soon, however, out of the stillness of the early summer evening, came the croak of a gigantic bullfrog. It was a loud, blatant bellow for one of this species, and commonplace as it might" have been to the boy, to the man IN TOWN— ALFORD COMING INTO THE TOWN from Cork — the land where St. Patrick laid out the frogs and snakes so many years ago — it was something new and startling. The boy, telling the story, says that the Irishman turned end over end in his fright and hurry to get back to the shore he started from. As soon as he recovered his breath, he inquired, THEjCNION CHURCH 104 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE heavy and glossy — and she bought it before sh^ was married, for a field bedstead. You know what they called field bedsteads, and she had to keep it years and years before she could get the bedstead, and at last it began to crack in the folds, and then she had to make it up. In the same drawer with that was a very nice bedquilt, pieced all of new pieces, in a very curious way, and she kept that a great many years before she could get money enough to buy the cotton and lining. I remember that it was quite an event when at last it was made up. Then in the drawer above was my sister Sally's clothes. (Sally died, you know.) Her dresses (and shoes all fitted to the shape of her feet) were there. She had a very pretty foot, and I remember that she had a pair of morocco shoes. That was a wonderful thing then. My mother kept her infants' wardrobes there, too. Her last babies had more things, I think, than we older ones. Henry [Senator Henry Laurens Dawes] had some very pretty dresses. One was pink — they had colored dresses more then than now — pink trimmed with a green ON ROAD FKOM ALFORD TO SOUTH EGREMOST they make them of pine, with a little veneer. My father made those doors with his own hands, and they were the only ones which we had for years, and 1 remember distinctly what my mother kept in them, years and years ago. In one drawer was a piece of copperplate folded up — copperplate was a kind of calico, ON THE WAT TO ALFOED TOWN .HALLjiALFORD " Me bye, phat was that croaked at me?" The youngster told him it was only a frog, and that it could not harm him. "Och! but the dirthy baste — catch me bathin' in the same water with him. Ohone ! Oh, no, oh, no ! " Considering the probability of Patrick's fellowship with or con- tiguity to the wharf rats the last time he bathed near the Cork docks, the change of scene and companionship was suggestive, but tastes vary the world over. WHAT WAS IN GRAND- MOTHER'S CHEST We sat the other evening in grand- ma's room, close by the large chest of drawers, which had been grandma's mother's. In an idle moment I had been brushing up the brasses with a handkerchief, and that I suppose led grandma to recall the following details: " That chest of drawers were your grandmother's mother's, my child. They are better than any you can find now — cherry clear through^- solid cherry. Now OLD APi'LE TREES cord. Well, that copperplate, when at last she had made it up, she could buy nothing to trim the scallops with. It had very rich colors — green was one, I think. Well, you know Becky Richardson — D wight Richardson's daughter — she got to taking opium, and the doctor supplied her with it for a great many years, and at.last she was heavily in his debt, and he told her that if there was any work my mother wanted done, that she could do, she might do it, and so my mother had her make some fringe to trim the scallops with. She could make fringe in a very curious way. My mother got some yarn and colored it green. First she made it yellow with smart- weed and then she dipped it in the blue dye and that made green, you know. Blue and yellow make green, and out of that Becky made the fringe. It was about — so wide, and my mother sewed it on, and it looked very nicely. These were some of the things that (Continued on page 106) OUBVBD IS THE LINE 0F|BEAUTY "' A.LFOKD POST-OPFICB PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 105 A POTATO FORTUNE A STORY FOR.YOUNC; FOLKS Rob Granger was not lazy. No, but when the sun was hot, and across the fields he could see the cool, tree-shaded river border, he did not like to have a big fork put in his hands and be told he must go to dig ging potatoes. A potato field is at best so hot and dry! The shrivelled tops are disagreeable to the touch and every time the soil is dug into, a cloud of dust rises. It is hard enough to go at it in the morning, harder to take the work up again when dinner has J been eaten, and hardest of all to stick to it through the long hours of the afternoon. But Rob knew he had to do the work whether he liked it or not. In the story books he had read of the way people dug and dug until they found gold. But that potato field seemed a very unlikely place for such happen- ings, and then these lucky ones were always told beforehand about the matter and were watched over by some good fairy ; besides Rob was twelve years old and he didn't believe that kind of stories any more. He knew that when he had dug two rows he must go and pick up the potatoes he had thrown out in a straggling row along the furrow. First he must pick out the good ones, then go batk for the poorer ones. After that the next two rows must be dug and picked up ; and then there were other rows, beyond those, stretching away clean across the field. Rob had thought out several fine ideas of how he could em- ploy himself were he rid of this work. He had thought how it would seem on the' cool piazza, and how it would seem in the border of the woods or on the logs out in the river. Then the bright thought came — he would make believe he was having a fine time digging potatoes. He would say that every potato was something precious and a field of potatoes meant a fortune. Rob had always imagined it must be a fine thing to have lots of money. So now he made him- self think he was raking it in every time his fork went into the ground and was pulled forth again. Every time he turned out a potato he made believe it was a piece of his fortune brought to the surface, and every one he picked up he called a " something " hoarded away or put in the bank. And the bigger the the potato was the bigger was its value in his make- believe. Before he knew it his eyes were glistening, and as he bent to his work he forgot how hard it was. To his mind this was a whole field of riches, and if he only unearthed them, he might have them all. Then he imagined the end come, and he was say- ing to his mother, just as returning sailors did, " I am now a rich man. You needn't work any more, little mother. Just sit down on the piazza and read. Don't sew and don't think of kitchen work. Your servants shall attend to that. And, mother, I made all this money on afield of potatoes." Over the field he went, forking the treasures from the ground, and the rows became fewer, and his bags of wealth became many and full. Truly, he could feel himself a rich man. He was a banker; his bank the field; hiswealththe bags of potatoes on every hand and his increase made him very happy. Then quick the fork would come down into the ground, deep driven enough to bring up a whole hill of potatoes at a time in response to his vigorous pull. When at the close of the hot harvest day, night fell upon the potato field and a hungry boy sat down at supper, father and mother said to him even more than his imagination had made them say. And at bed- time, it was a tired boy who laid himself down and fell into the perfect sleep he had so well earned. What more priceless possession have even the wealthiest at a day's end ? M. A. Ryan. A CONTENTED MIND BETTER THAN GKEAT RICHES The river border, the edge of the woods, the ham- mock on the piazza, that had been the sirens of Rob's early day were faded away before this pleasure of getting rich. Rob was strong enough and earnest enough to keep up his practical play, and between thoughts there stole over him a gladness that he was making so much progress in getting the potatoes ready for market. Father would say, " You did well, Rob," and mother would give the father's words a happy echo, and he would say — to himself — " I am a rich man " — and to the boys at school — " I dug more potatoes than ever did a boy in the district, the last day off from school." A Summer Morning in Berkshire. — The morn- ing came up in clouds, the clouds grew to mist, and the mist rolled out of the valley, and hung, rugged and wild, upon the mountain side. All the trees do clap their hands in the merry wind that now, unburdened of its moisture, runs nimbly through the sunny air. We open the front door, and sit upon its threshold. We look out under the maple trees that shade the yard, over fields, across to the mountain sides, that now stand in the freshest, deepest green. We take our book, and holding it with folded hands behind us, we walk, with uncovered head, up and down the road before the house, beneath the trembling shadows which the maples cast westward — shadows that play upon the ground in gold and dark, as the small wind opens and shuts the spaces of the trees to the sunlight ! This is perfect rest. The ear is full of birds' notes, of insects' hum, of the barn-yard clack of hens and peeping chickens; the eye is full of noble, outlined hills, of meadow-growing trees, of grass glancing with light shot from a million dewdrops, and of the great heavenly arch, unstained with cloud, from side to side without a note or film; filled with silent, golden ether, which surely descends on such a morn- ing as this from the very hills of heaven. Angels have flown through it, and exhaled their joys, as flowers leave their per- fume in the evening air.— " The Star Papers}'' AUTUMN When the maple turns to crimson And the sassafras to gold ; When the gentian's in the meadow And the aster's on the wold ; When the moon is lapped in vapor And the night is frosty cold ; When the chestnut burrs are opened And the acorns drop like hail, And the drowsy air is startled With the thumping of the flail — With the drumming of the partridge And the whistle of the quail ; Through the rustlingwoods I wander, Through the jewels of the year, From the yellow uplands calling, Seeking her that is still dear ; She is near me in the autumn, Nature, the beautiful, is near The spleen is seldom felt where Flora reigns ; The low'ring eye, the petulance, the frown, And sullen sadness that o'ershade, distort, And mar the face of beauty, when no cause For such immeasurable woe appears, These Flora banishes, and gives the fair Sweet smiles and bloom less transient than her own. Covifey. io6 (CONTINUEt) FROM PAGE 104) my mother kept in her drawers, and I can remember now just how they looked, years and years ago." c. D. N. PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE QUIET, SLyMBROUS SHEF- FIELD Aella Greene thus writes of the beautiful town of Sheffield: The uneasy spirit of this mad age has not yet entered every New England village, to the driving out of the spirit of calmness and con- tent. And one of these thus far spared the uprest oi the times is the southernmost town of Berk- shire. This fact, beautiful in the history of Sheffield, seems evident SHAKER MILLS, WEST STOCKBRIDGE as coming from the teeming, war- ring outer world, one enters the quiet central village of the old town, and prepared for serenity by the sweetness and calmness of Lenox, Stockbridge and Barring- ton, through which he has jour- neyed, saunters along the wide and well-shaded principal street, drink- ing in the slumbrousness that per- vades the old elm-bordered aisle. And, meditating on the peaceful life of the people and the fragrant memories of that lover of nature and of humanity, the Unitarian divine. Rev. Dr. Orville Dewey, the visitor continues in his course to the tree that is so large and so well proportioned that in a town full of elms it is known as "the" Sheffield elm. Worship at this shrine over, the traveler, with an SOUTH END OF THE TOWN CENTRE SCHOOL-HOUSE a SCHOOL CHILDREN IN THE MINING DISTRICT ON ROAD TO GREAT EAKRINGTON eyer growing con- sciousness of the, wel- come that this elm and other elms, and other trees, wave him, and the consciousness ;th at ■ ^ - -^ ■■_„| - ^j^ rvti— E K ' '-m ^^ needs the humaniz- %, JBHBK^ i^ "^<* \' % ^"S of this spirit of calmness, retraces his steps to the hospitable home of a friend, or theinviting village inn. The jaunt at morn- 'I I iM»Hliff^irt1iliiill>^ ["""^r. ''"^' ^^°^^ ^^^ country roadways, out from the village, gives views of farms of considera- ble fertility, and of some that, truth to tell, have a light soil which is barren in spots. Sheffield is, on the whole, a good grazing town, and dairying is quite a thing with the farmers, as witness the thousands and TO VVN HALL thousands of quarts of milk shipped every week by daily installments to the great markets of Gotham. There's music in the sighing of a reed ; There's music in the gushing of a rill ; There's music in all things, if men had ears ; Their earth is but an echo of the spheres. CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH Byron. RAILWAY STATION PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 107 DOWN HILL TO WEST STOGKBRIDGE TOWN UAIN STREET FROM WATERING PLACE RICHMOND REMINISCENCES Rev. David Perry was the parson of Richmond for nearly fifty years. Like Michael Balwhidder of Scottish fame, "he was a vehement thrasher of the Word, making the chaff and vain babblings of unbelievers fly from his hand." But the parson's opposite neighbor and parishioner was an avowed unbeliever. At that time there were strolling people traveling through the country who had no money to pay for "putting up at the tavern." They stopped at houses for food and a night's lodging. The parson's opposite neighbor was quite a close man, and when 'I these people begged a shelter for the night he invariably asked, " Be. you the Lord's poor, or the Devil's poor ? " The strangers would naturally reply, " We hope we are the Lord's poor." "Cross right over on the other side, then," the neighbor would reply in a quaint way, " the parson lives there ; he keeps the Lord's poor." _ . A century a^o Richmond was one of the leading towns of the county and took first premiums in a nptable way at the " cattle shows " and C9unty fairs." An old settler told of seeing one hundred iOxen yoked to- gether and chained in a CAPT. JACOB NORTH FROM THE DEPOT BRIDGE, WEST STOGKBRIDGE ON THE WILLIAMS RIVER THE IRON UINES KNTEKING \\'i:?T STitCKBRIDGE io8 PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 1 AV 1 '#■ VIEW NEAE THE QEPOT, RICHMUND long proqession, going from Richmond ^o the " Fair." Nowhere else but in Richmond could one hundred such fine oxen be found. The first Leghorn bonnet ever seen at the county fair was made by a young girl in Richmond, who cut the Leghorn grass in the swamp, bleached it in the sun and braided it into a bonnet, and not a girl in the whole town knew of her enterprise until they saw it on exhibition at the fair. The committee on premiums awarded her five , dollars for her handiwork. There was a noted weaver woman, living on one of the bleak hill-tops, who designed intricate patterns for her linen and woolen manufac- tures. The workings of her loom were so much admired, that women came, not only from the adjacent towns to get their coverlets and tablecloths woven ; but from Albany and Hartford, as well. Married women, however, spem to have had but little identity of their own at that age of the town. In turning over an old church manual of Richmond, we find in the list of the membership wives recorded after this manner: "The wife' of Nathan Cogswell," "The wife of Dr. Crocker," "The wife of Erastus Row- ley." As some of the husbands of these women were non-professors, it seemed quite a novel way of recording the mem. bership. The parson pastured his cows on Perry's Peak, and there being a large number of " olive branches " in the way of boys in the parson's family, they took turns in driving the cows to and from pasture, the distance being so great that it was quite a journey, morning and evening. p. BELOW THE DAM, RICHMOND d»«.< VIEW FROM OFFICE OF RICHMOND FUKNACT! SOME MINERS' HOMES . ,.^„^_ • V ' :/ '* A WINTER FORD 1 ByRNING pHABCOAL ORE BEDS AND ENGINE HOUSE, RJCItMOND FURNACE PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE 109 CONGRBGATIONAT. CHIIBCH AND TOWN HALL A Laconic Lawyer. — Shays' rebellioa engendered a vast amount of ill feeling. It was a war of neighbor against neighbor and family against family — a civil war on a limited scale. In the personal animosities which attended the rebellion, a horse belonging to a friend of the government was shot and killed by his neighbor, a Shays sympathizer. From this arose a suit for damages brought by the former, against the latter. The Shays man was known to be guilty ; but the difficulty was to prove the fact. The case came up for hearing be- fore a justice of the peace and Major William King appeared as counsel to defend the Shays man. It was proved beyond a doubt that the defendant at the, time of the killing had been seen within half a mile of the pasture in which the horse was kept, with a gun in his hands, and that he was heard to hurrah lustily for Shays. The evidence was not very conclusive as to his guilt, but the counsel for the plaintiff laid great stress upon it, and made a labored and lengthy argument. Rising to re- ply. Major King, in his laconic way, addressed the court: " May it please your Honor, the question is simply this : Whether or not hurrahing for Shays will kill a horse at half a mile," and resumed his seat. The defendant was acquitted. UBTHODIST GBUBGH STEVEN'S OLEH RICHMOND FUENAGE THE SGHOOL-HOUSE THE MINSTREL WINDS They lay Their wild hands on the leafless boughs, Which heave In slow-drawn sighs, till all the forest-harp Wails o'er the buried autumn and lets loose The sea-like music of eternity. POST-OFPIGB AND 9TORB O Nature, how in every charm supreme ! Whose votaries feed on raptures ever new ! Oh, for the voice and fire of seraphim, To sing thy glories, with devotion due I Blest be the day 1 'scaped the wrangling crew, From Pyrrho's maze, and Epicurus' sty ; And held high converse with the God-like few. Who to the enraptured heart, and ear and eye. Teach Beauty, Virtue, Truth and Love, and Melody. Beaitie. E4ILWAT STATION Scenes must be beautiful which daily view'd Please daily, and whose novelty survives Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years Cawper. AN OLD H0G3B no PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE THE MONTHS VERSES BY M. A. RYAN ILLUSTRATED BY CLIFTON JOHNSON J" J^ -**"^ ^s^d ^kjmf ^fe^ Z^M JMJi Bleak are New England's Old Hillsides And winds blow fierce in wrath Delaying still the glad spring-tides, Yet giving time for last sleigh rides Along each country path. '■i> /^ Clear is the air to the ringing Of the^ first of the year's twelve strokes. The wind o'er the white fields bringing Sounds of the wood ax swinging Courage and strength invokes. Soft warm rains the wild flowers know, Sent from low gray skies ; Streains swell broad in onward flow, On willow limbs new leaf buds grow, Harsh; winds become mild sighs. What though the brooks are all fettered By the bonds of the Frost King bold? What care has the life snow-sheltered — A covering not to be bettered While winter continues its hold ? t -SET In orchard lanes are blossoms white; Fair earth says, " List, child, play; - For the world is bright All day, all night When the year clock rings out May." PICTURESQUE BERKSHIRE III t8ti#«s!» A gleam of gold in the grasses Where the daisies love to grow ; And roses, whose short life passes Where the bee his honey amasses On the hillsides all aglow. Then Earth has its fullest and ripest days Brief rest between summer and fall; And yet with a boding of end of ways, For old Earth's fullness never stays, But ever must follow Queen Nature's call. Time of harvest now draws nigh, The grains to ripeness grow. And through the golden fields of rye The reaper goes in rich July And lays the tall heads low. Color glories where green leaves grew, And ripe year's fruitage all. Trees spread gay banners, and 'tis true, These days of splendor have their due For nuture spent from bud to fall. KOVEMBEK Once more tell the Puritan story Of the trials of the forefather's days. In peace and in plenty we glory. While the maize guards the hillsides hoary, And prepare for the Thanksgiving praise. DEGBSIBER Sound long the note of December, Last of the twelve-stroked chime. Christmas glories long to remember Are out-borne on this fading ember. And the year yields up to time. THE END. AUGUST The torrid thunderstorm comes on, Bred in the languorous skies. With flashing eye and sullen tone It rushes on, bursts forth, is gone. And a freshened earth behind it lies. INDEX TO TEXT EDITORIAL An Interesting Document, . Introductory Our Artists and Other Helpers, The Picturesque Series, The Southern Sentinel, CONTRIBUTED A Curious Old Book for Children, Esthetic Stockbridge, .... A Hailstorm in Berkshire, /. M. L. Babcock, A Hillside Farm. A Poem, Laura Sanderson, Amid the Wild Flowers, Mrs. D. H. R. Goodale, Among the Berkshire Hills, Frederic Allison Tupper, A Mountain Climb, Mary E. Dewey, A Notable Berkshire Town, 6'. B. Quigley, An Unlucky Tea Party, .... A Potato Fortune, M. A. Ryan, A Thanksgiving Incident of Stockbridge, Susan Teall Perry, Berkshire so _ Bonn y, Anon, Brook and Pond Life, Walter Harrison, 36 34 17 77 ■57 98 97 36 14 105 33 98 45 Curious Epitaphs, Does Farming Pay? Henry S. Goodale, Falls of the Bash Bish, C. P. D. Fox-Hunting in Berkshire, Albert Hardy Gus Barnes et als, Aellq Greene. Not "to the Manor Born," Old Bolivar, Picturesque Lee, Rev. L. S. Rowland, Quiet, Slumbrous Sheffield, Recollections of Lenox, Albert Hardy. Reminiscences of Sandisfield, . Richmond Reminiscences, P. Sam — A Poem with a History, Albert Hardy. Singular Occurrences in Sheffield, Some Peculiar Characters, George S. Whitbeck. Some Reminiscences, .... Some Southern Berkshire Notabilities, Clark W. Bryan. Song to Berkshire, Dora Read Goodale. The Bash-a-Bish, Laura Sanderson The Hopkins-Searles Mansion, The Longing Hour, Elaine Goodale Eastman. The Little Schoolgirl of 1820, Susan Teal Perry. The Old Court-house, Henry L. Dawes. FAGB 84 95 98 60 50 103 44 41 io5 9? 72 107 51 71 99 51 92 66 98 31 92 13 15 The Ride About the County, H. T. Oatman. . Lenox, Stockbridge and Great Barfington, Washington, Lee, Becket and Tyringham, Otis, Sandisfield, New Marlboro, and Slieffield, Monterey, Mount Washington, Alford, West Stockbridge, Richmond and Egre- mont, Vacations in Berkshire, Wm. Wilberforce Newton, What the Farmer Reads, Clementina D. Nahmer, What was in Grandmother's Chest, C. D. N., SELECTED Beecher on Berkshire, Green River, Haying, Monument Mountain, Rain Upon the Roof, The Crow Hill School, The Good Stockbridge Indians, The Mountains in October, The Two Villages, Rose Ten 20 53 63 79 47 55 104 40 Bryant, 45 Beecher, 77 Bryant, 4a Kinney, 79 Anon, 80 33 . 44 y Cooke, 85 ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece, A Pleasure Party Returning from "the Dome," R. Lionel DeLisser. BY TOWNS AND VILLAGES PAGE Alford, 103-105 Becket, .;.... '. 51-54 Egremont, 100-102 North Egremont, 102 South Egremont, .... 100, 101 Great Barrington, .... 30-50 Housatonic, 47-50 Van Deusenville 45 Lee 59-68 North Lee, . . . . 64 South Lee, 62, 65, 66 Lenox 6-i8 Lenoxdale, 14-16 Marlboro, 80-84 Campbell's Falls, and Lake Buel, . 84 PAGE Hartsville 80 Mill River, 82, 83 Southneld, 81, 82 Monterey, 76 Mount Washington 91-99 Bash Bish and Sage's Ravine, . . , 96-98 Sky Farm, 92 Otis . 74, 75 Otis Falls, . . • ■ • 75 West Otis, ... . . 75 Richmond, . 108, 109 Sandisfield, ... ... 77-79 Montville, .... . . 79 New Boston, . 78, 79 Sheffield, 85-90 Ashley Falls go Stockbridge, 1^-29 Glendale, 27 Tyringham, 69-73 Washington 55, 56 West Stockbridge, jo6, 107 GENERAL ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A Potato Fortune, Drawings by Clifton Johnson, 105 Does Farming Pay? Sketches by Walter Cox, 95 Sam — A Poem with a History, Illustrations by R. Lionel DeLisser, 5 1 The Months, Drawings by Clifton Johnson, 110,111 The Sphinx Above the Clouds, By Wm. L. Maclean, 40 Wash Drawings, - By R. Lionel DeLisser, A Happy Family, 55 Early Morning, go Evening, g^ The Meeting 89 Waiting 3^ Wild Flowers, Illustrations by Frederick Knab, 57, 58 Clare W. Betan CoMPANr, Printers, Spetngfibld, Mass.