TH 1 Q 1 3 a aPCRTi-rMMLlPMiT COmCLL^WWCiilTT Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073872776 Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original . It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell ' s replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z3 9. 48 -1992. The production of this volume was supported by the National Endowment for the Humanities . Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1995. Scanned as part of the A. R. Mann Library project to preserve and enhance access to the Core Historical Literature of the Agricultural Sciences. Titles included in this collection are listed in the volumes published by the Cornell University Press in the series THE LITERATURE OF THE AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES, 1991-1995, Wallace C. Olsen, series editor. Come IRew l^orft Si Ht-A^r ... U XHniversit^ Xibrari? OF THE tate Colleae of agriculture ^ 1 3778 A Group of Finished Carpentry Projects. Problems in Carpentry A Course in Practical Carpentry for Manual Training Classes By LOUIS M. ROEHL Director of Farm Mechanics, Milwaukee County School of Agriculture and Domestic Economy Wauwatosa, Wisconsin (X COPYRIGHT, 1913 By WEBB PUBLISHING COMPANY All Rights Reserved PREFACE Carpentry is now being introduced into the more progressive schools, and, when properly presented, fulfills one of the chief aims of vocational teaching. A course in carpentry such as is here outlined not only gives the student an insight into the build- ing trades, but develops thought, observa- tion, and the necessary practical training of the hand. The great difficulty in teaching carpentry has been the lack of a method that would give the student actual carpentry work to do. Various systems have been tried, all of which are open to serious objections. Constructing miniature buildings of lum- ber which has been sawed to scale is one method that has been employed, but this has not been found entirely satisfactory, be- cause the students consume a great deal of lumber by repeating certain operations and learn nothing new by the repetition; neither do they get. the practice of working lumber full scale, as in the trade. Another method used in some schools is that of having a class of manual training students build a house, barn, woodshed, or other building for someone near the school who wants such a building constructed. This is a good way if persons can be found who want their building done by those who have not learned the trade. In most in- stances, however, he who wishes a building constructed would rather have experienced carpenters do that work, even though it costs a little more, than to risk having it poorly done by beginners. This method has the further objection that the class work must be done in the spring or autumn when the weather conditions are favorable for outside work. The course in carpentry as outlined in this book has been found to overcome success- fully the above mentioned difficulties. The problems are those that are met with in actual carpentry, the lumber used is full scale, and the work may be done in the manual train- ing shop at any time of the year. The aim is to afford a complete and practical course of instruction, covering not only tools and tool operations, materials, and joinery, but also practice in framing, roofing, lathing, plastering, inside and outside finishing, paint- (5) PREFACE ing, plaster finishing, and floor finishing. Both the ability to do and the ability to judge correct carpentry are developed. As may be observed from the illustra- tions, each problem is complete in itself and gives practice in all of the work involved in the part of a house represented by that problem. If a more extensive project were attempted, unnecessary lumber and space would be consumed, and nothing new learned. On the other hand, a smaller project would not make a complete, typical problem. Each project, like the problems in furniture mak- ing, is small enough to be built and handled by the students in the manual training shop. Each may be taken to a convenient place for plastering and painting. It has been found that by means of the bill of material, plates, and halftones accom- panying each problem, even eighth grade pupils are able to go forward with the work in a manner best designed to develop the desired thought and observation and the ability to assimilate readily new knowledge as both the theory and the practice of each step are worked out. Without further sug- gestions than those given, too, the instructor is able to direct the class work to the best advantage; and the flexibility of the course permits the fullest adaptability to local needs and conditions. Before taking up the problems, it has been found advisable to have the student become familiar with the carpentry tool operations; and some preliminary work in making a few of the joints used in practical carpentry, as represented in Plate I, is also recommended. The method of building certain parts of the projects herein represented may vary somewhat in different localities. The kind of lumber used for building purposes varies in different parts of the country, and, in ordering lumber, one may safely order what is being used by the better local builders. On page 16 are listed the kinds of lumber for given purposes in common use in the Central West. Plastering, wood finishing, and painting are not carpentry work, but are very closely allied to it, and the work offered by the problems furnishes a good opportunity for students to get an insight into those trades. In agricultural schools, particularly, it would be well to make comparisons of vari- ous features of the projects with correspond- ing parts of barns and other outbuildings. It will be found that the building problems in house construction embrace those met PREFACE with in barns, which are in most cases much simpler. Students completing the house prob- lems will therefore have no difficulty in comprehending the construction features of barns and sheds. A very satisfactory way of conducting the class-room work is to assign one project to a group of three or four students. One member of each group may then be appointed foreman of that group. The foreman should get his directions from the instructor in charge, and, in turn, im- part the same to his fellow workmen on his project. The instructor should observe, how- ever, that the directions are conveyed accu- rately. The foreman should be made to feel the responsibility of having the work done accu- rately. Each student should be given an opportunity to act in this capacity. Each will then experience valuable practice in taking, retaining, and giving directions. It is a good plan to have the classes make tours of observation and inspection of buildings that are being constructed in the locality while the school projects are in the process of construction. LOUIS M. ROEHL. CONTENTS Page Preface 5 Tools Used in Carpentry 9 Carpentry Tool Operations 10 Woods Used in Carpentry 16 Joints Used in Carpentry 18 Sill, Wall, and Floor Construction (A) 21 Sill, Wall, and Floor Construction (B) 30 Sill, Floor, Wall, Door, and Window Construction 35 Interior Wall Framing and Finish 44 Window Construction 47 Roof Construction 52 Corner Hip Box Cornice 57 Corner Hip Cottage Cornice 65 Page Box Cornice With Return 71 Porch Floor and Steps 77 Porch Roof With Return 81 Hip Porch Roof. . 91 Valley Cornice 91 Carpenter's Specifications 97 A Typical Bill of Lumber for Bungalow 102 A Typical Bill of Lumber for Interior Finishing of Bungalow 104 Lumber Measurement Table 106 Nails 107 Builder's Hardware 109 Topics for Supplementary Study 110 (8) PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY TOOLS AND TOOL OPERATIONS TOOLS There are many makes of carpentry tools on the market, many of which are good and some of which are too poor in quahty to warrant their use. None are efficient unless kept clean and in good working order. If possible, several makes of each tool should be used in the same class-room and their merits found out by actual use. Each item in the list of "Essential Tools for a Carpentry Kit" and "Extra Tools for a Carpentry Kit Frequently Used" may be taken as a topic for class discussion. The following outline is suggestive of points to be considered in the discussion of a tool: 1. Name of tool. 2. Quality. 3. Cost. 4. Weight. 5. Size. 6. Uses and adaptability. 7. Adjustments. 8. Handhng. 9. Care and repair. ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR A CARPENTRY KIT 1 Cross-cut saw. 1 Rip saw. 1 Jack plane, 14", with 2" cutter. 1 Carpenter's draw knife. 1 Marking gauge. 1 Sliding T bevel, 8". 1 Try-square, 8". 1 Mallet. 1 Saw set. 1 Set of auger bits, 4-16" to 16-16", inclusive. 1 Ratchet brace. 2 Screw drivers, one 6" and one 10". 1 Rose countersink. 1 Nichol's steel rafter framing square No. 100 A. 1 Pair pliers. 1 Saw vise. (9) 10 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 1 Flat file, 10". 1 Triangular file, 8". 1 Half round wood file, 12". 1 Auger bit file. 1 Pair 8" winged dividers. 1 Oblong carborundum oil stone, 8". 1 Cabinet scraper. 1 Straight claw hammer, 16 oz. 1 Level, 24". 1 Coping saw. 1 Dowel plate. 2 Nail sets. 1 Four-fold pocket rule, 2'. 1 Block plane, 6", 1^" cutter. 4 Socket firmer chisels, M"> W, 1". 1 1/" EXTRA TOOLS FOR CARPENTRY KIT, FREQUENTLY USED 1 Bishop handy saw. 1 Compass saw. 1 Turning saw. 1 Jointer, 22", with 2^/^" cutter. 1 Universal plane, with cutters. 1 Block and babbett plane. 1 Expansive bit with two cutters, ]/§" to IM" and IW to 3". 1 Set twist bits, Yg" to Vs" by 32ths. 1 Yankee spiral ratchet screwdriver with chuck, drills, screwdrivers and countersink. 2 Jorgensen patent adjustable hand screws No. 4. 2 Steel bar carpenter's clamps, open 3'. 1 Agricultural wrench, 10", IH" open- ing. 1 Putty knife. 1 Glue pot. 1 Miter box. CARPENTRY TOOL OPERATIONS The carpentry tool operations should be learned and the hands trained to execute them before attempting the use of tools in actual carpentry work. The preliminary exercises to secure this training are outlined under the heading "Joints Used in Carpentry" page 18. A beginner is likely to want to do those operations that he has already learned, in- stead of striving to master new processes. This tendency should be carefully guarded against; and as soon as one can execute any particular operation, he should count that one as an asset and work on others that are less familiar. Because two persons seldom experience the same difficulty in acquiring the correct uses of the various tools, it is difficult to have all members of a class do the same work at the same time. What is comparatively easy PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 11 for one person often proves a hard task for another. It is well to note carefully one's own difficulties and to continue the practice work until the desired skill is obtained. All of the following operations will be applied in constructing the projects, and as the operations are studied in practice their application in the various problems may be anticipated by the student or pointed out by the instructor. 1. Rip sawing. 2. Cross grain sawing. 3. Leveling. 4. Plumbing. 5. Erecting. 6. Tool sharpening. a. Saw filing. b. Grinding. c. Whetting. 7. Measuring. 8. Squaring a line at right angles. 9. Planing. a. Flat surface. b. Edge. c. End. 10. Laying out chamfer. IL flaying out and cutting bevel. 12. Boring. 13. Doweling. 14. Mitering. 15. Chiseling. a. With grain. b. Cross grain. 16. Nailing. 17. Nail setting. 18. Nail pulling. 19. Screw driving. 20. Screw drawing. 21. Counter sinking. 22. Tapering. 23. Scraping. 24. Sanding. 25. Round surface edging. 26. Mortising. 27. Wood filing. 28. Tongue and groove cutting (Match- ing)- Rip Sawing. — In learning the carpentry operations, one should learn to rip any piece of lumber while holding it without a vise. This can be done by the use of a saw bench, box, stool, or nail keg. As soon as the beginner can saw to line and get a square edge by the use of these conveniences, he should learn to saw as well by holding the lumber in some more inconvenient position. Then when he is called upon to rip a board in actual practice he will not be handicapped for lack of a vise to hold the wood. 12 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Cross -grain Sawing. — What applies to rip sawing applies to cross-grain sawing. Each time a piece of wood is sawed, the beginner should test the result with the square, and in each succeeding effort train the hand to guide the saw so as to overcome the previous trouble. One learns to tell by the feel of the saw just how true he is cutting. The result would be to saw true without special thought or effort. Leveling. — The carpenter's level should be within convenient reach at all times. Sills and plates should be placed level on the bench or floor on which the project is being worked. Plumbing. — By use of the level and steel square the projects in carpentry should be kept perfectly plumb. The two words plumb and level must be kept foremost in thought while all framing is being done. It is more difficult to keep small projects, such as are shown in this book, plumb aud level than a whole building, and it is necessary, therefore, to test the work with level and square fre- quently. Erecting. — Erecting is a distinct opera- tion in carpentry. It refers to the raising of barn bents, placing of plates, girts, etc., in frame buildings. The various pieces are assembled on the ground or foundation and erected to position in convenient groups. The principal tool operations are performed on the timbers while in a convenient position on the ground. Tool Sharpening. — One of the first lessons that a beginner in carpentry should learn is that a workman is handicapped if he has poor tools, and that the best success cannot be obtained if one tries to work with dull ones. Each shop should be equipped with a saw vise, a few triangular files, a grindstone or carborundum grinder, and a carborundum oil stone. Each student should have a set of tools to work with and should have pride in the condition of each tool. Measuring. — Before a carpenter can be- gin work with cutting tools, he must learn how to measure. All members of a class should get the same results if asked to measure all parts of a work bench, for example. It is well to learn to follow both verbal and witten directions for measuring. Accurate measuring is fundamental to accurate work. Squaring a Line at Right Angles. — The carpenter's steel square should be used for drawing lines at right angles to an edge or other line, especially on large timbers or wide pieces. Planing. — a. Just enough broad surface planing should be done in practice to learn PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 13 the correct method. More planing than that is a waste of time and should be done at the mill. The lumber should not be held in a vise but on the bench against a bench stop. b. Edge planing is an operation that a carpenter meets with in nearly every job. One should learn to plane an edge at right angles to the side of the board, removing the least amount of stock possible. c. End planing should be done as little as possible. It may be considered in most cases as a method of fixing up a poor cross cut. If a piece of wood has been carefully measured, marked, and cut to line, it is very seldom that end planing need be done. d. Chamfer planing is so much like edge planing that what has been said of the latter applies to the former. Beginners need to be cautioned to cut to line and to be careful not to cut below it. La3ang Out Chamfer. — The method of laying out a chamfer depends on its size. Most carpenters lay out small chamfers by using the finger as a gauge. One's judgment of distance becomes so correct that the result obtained in this way is practically as good as if done by the use of a marking gauge or ruler, and it is much handier and quicker. Where exact measurement is necessary, how- ever, a ruler and straight edge or gauge should be used. Laying Out and Cutting Bevel. — Bevels may be laid out by the use of the bevel square or steel square. They are usually cut with the plane. Boring. — Each student should be taught how to sharpen an auger bit and a twist bit. The mortise-and-tenon joints afford an oppor- tunity early in the course for learning how to bore straight and to test for depth. Doweling. — A dowel block should be at the carpenter's command. If not, the wood used for doweling should be squared to size of hole; then cut octagonal, and one light cut from the remaining corners will make dowels true for practical work. Mitering. — Every carpentry shop should have a miter box, but in learning the car- pentry tool operations the students should lay out the miters by the use of the steel square and cut them with a hand saw. When the skill necessary to lay out and cut miters by this method has been acquired, the miter box may be used. It is not wise to use the square and saw method further than as a means for acquiring skill. By the use of the miter box such work can be more quickly and accurately done. 14 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Chiseling. — ^Wherever possible in chisel- ing, the tool should be held at an angle, so as to obtain a shear cut. It is the easiest way to get a smooth surface. Usually stock may be removed more quickly by the use of a saw or plane than by means of a chisel. If the result sought can be obtained as well, any tool may be used that will do the work most quickly and easily. Nailing. — On page 108 is given the name of each kind of nail used for different pur- poses, the various sizes of each, and how specified. Then by looking over the draw- ings the places where each has a use may be pointed out. The hammer shoiild be swung freely so as to drive the nail with as little energy as possible. Nails must be set with a nail set for all interior finish, and the holes filled with putty. Screw Driving. — A hole must be drilled in all hard wood before a screw can be inserted, and if flat head screws are used the hole must be countersunk deep enough so that the head of the screw will be flush with the surface of the wood. A screw may be placed in soft wood without boring a hole. The screw may be started with a tap of the hammer. The jaws of a screw should never be marred, and only experience will teach just how much forcing they will stand. Tapering. — Tapering is an operation sel- dom met with in practical carpentry. In agricultural schools it may be taught in the making of singletrees, eveners, wagon tongues, etc. The principal point to be kept in mind is that a center line must be drawn length- wise of the stock and the taper measured on both sides of this center line. Scraping. — Soft wood cannot be scraped, the fibre of the wood being so soft that the cabinet scraper slides over it. All the hard- wood interior finishing lumber, including hardwood floors, should be scraped before putting on the oils or varnish. All planer marks and other irregular- ities on the surface of the wood should be removed by use of the smoothing plane and scraper, so that a smooth, even surface will be obtained for the finishing. Sanding. — All interior finishing lumber, including floors, should be sandpapered smooth after being scraped even with cabinet and floor scrapers. A sandpaper block should always be used for sanding flat surfaces, as holding the paper in the hand does not pro- duce an even surface. The sandpaper may be held in the hand without the use of a block when sanding round surfaces or edges. Round Surface Edging. — If a carpentry shop is equipped with an adjustable iron PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 15 plane, cutters may be obtained for cutting rounds, hollows, mouldings, etc. If no such plane is at hand, round surface edging may be done by planing a series of chamfers and finishing by sanding. The front edge of the tread in stair building is often rounded in this way. Mortising. — Mortising is done principally in big timber framing. The corner posts of a timber frame barn are fastened to the sills by the use of a mortise-and-tenon joint. Studding, in house framing, used to be fas- tened to the sill by the use of a mortise-and- tenon joint, but the methods shown in this book are being used almost entirely now, and are quite as satisfactory. Wood Filing. — The wood file is not greatly used in practical carpentry. Stock can usually be removed more rapidly and a fit obtained as well by the use of the block plane and other edge tools. Tongue-and-groove Cutting. — Matching is the term applied to groove cutting. An adjustable iron plane is necessary for this work. As may be seen in the plate on window construction, a groove is cut beneath the window sill to receive the lap siding. In PLATE I may be seen two samples of tongue- and-groove work — one for flooring, the other for tanks. In tank building, a groove is cut in each of the joining pieces and a piece called a spline, about one inch by one-half inch, is placed in the groove. WOODS USED IN CARPENTRY WOODS Some woods are better adapted to cer- tain purposes than others. Woodworkers should become sufficiently familiar with the various kinds to know which is best adapted to a given purpose. For outside finishing, the lumber should be such as will stand the weather and hold paint well. For inside finishing, it should have a good, even color and should hold its shape. Lumber that has a tendency to warp should not be used for inside finishing. All framing lumber should be thoroughly air dried, and all finishing lumber and floor- ing should be kiln dried, before using. The study of woods is excellent supple- mentary work while the projects are being built. The following outline is suggestive of points to be considered in the study of a particular variety: 1. Expense. 2. Workability. 3. Texture (hard or soft). 4. Grain (open or close). 5. Finishing possibilities. 6. Warping tendencies. 7. Durability 8. Color. 9. Strength. 10. Principal uses. KINDS OF WOOD TO USE FOR GIVEN PURPOSES Balusters. — Basswood, oak, birch, white pine, maple, cypress, white ash. Baseboard. — Oak, birch, white pine, bass- wood, cypress, fir. Beams. — ^White pine, yellow pine, hem- lock, Norway pine, tamarack. Braces. — ^White pine, hemlock, yellow pine, oak, Norway pine, tamarack. Bridging. — Any soft wood. Ceiling. — White pine, yellow pine, cypress, fir. Drip cap. — No. 1 white pine, cypress. Door frame. — White pine, oak, birch, cypress. Drawers. — Basswood, white pine, maple, cypress. Doors. — ^White pine, birch, oak, cypress. Fascia. — White pine, cypress. Frieze. — White pine, cypress. (16) PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 17 Finish floor. — ^White pine, matched floor- ing — ^" maple, ^" maple, 5^" oak. Girts. — White pine, Norway pine, hem- lock, yellow pine, tamarack. Girders. — White pine, yellow pine, hem- lock, Norway pine, tamarack. Hand rail. — Oak, birch, white pine, bass- wood, maple, cypress, white ash. Headers. — White pine, Norway pine, hemlock, yellow pine, tamarack. Inside casing. — ^White pine, yellow pine, basswood, oak, birch, cypress, mahogany, gumwood, sycamore, redwood. Joists. — White pine, Norway pine, yellow pine. Lath. — Pine, hemlock, basswood, poplar, spruce. Lap siding. — No. 1 white pine, redwood. Outside moulding. — White pine, cypress. Inside moulding. — Oak, birch, basswood, white pine, cypress, fir. Newel post. — Basswood, oak, birch, white pine, maple, cypress, white ash. Outside casing. — No. 1 white pine, cypress. Plancher. — Yellow pine, matched ceiling, white pine, straight or matched cypress. Plates. — ^White pine, Norway pine, hem- lock, yellow pine, tamarack. Posts. — ^White pine, hemlock, yellow pine, Norway pine, tamarack. Roof boards. — No. 2 white pine, hem- lock matched fencing. Rafters. — ^White pine, hemlock, yellow pine. Ridge board. — White pine, cypress. Rough floor. — No. 2 white pine, hemlock. Risers. — Maple, oak, white pine, cypress, birch. Saddle board. — White pine, cypress. Shingles. — -Red cedar, white cedar, white pine. Sheathing. — No. 2 white pine, No. 1 shiplap, hemlock, fir. Sills. — ^White pine, Norway pine, hem- lock, yellow pine, tamarack. Studs. — ^White pine, Norway pine, hem- lock, yellow pine, tamarack. Stair stringer. — White pine, yellow pine. Trimmers. — White pine, Norway pine, hemlock, yellow pine, tamarack. Treads. — Maple, oak, white pine, cypress, birch. Wainscoting. — ^White pine, yellow pine, cypress, fir. Window frame. — ^White pine, cypress. Water table. — No. 1 white pine, cypress. Window sash. — ^White pine, cypress. JOINTS USED IN CARPENTRY. (PLATE I) Method of reducing . stock for joints to measurements : a. Plane one surface smooth and mark I. b. Plane one adjoining edge or surface at right angles to surface /, and mark II. c. Draw a line across surface I at one end at right angles to surface II and remove the end stock to line with saw or plane. Mark end surface III. d. Measure off the length of the required piece on surface / from the end surface, ///, and reduce stock to length with saw or plane. e. Measure off the width of the required piece on surface / from edge, or surface II, and remove stock to line with plane. /. With marking gauge, measure off the thickness of required stock from surface / and remove stock to line with plane. In squaring a piece of wood for a joint, the try-square should be used constantly, to obtain right angles with the adjoining surfaces. Having reduced the wood to the required dimensions, lay out the measurements for the joint. If accurate work is desired, a knife should be used for marking. A pencil mark is too indefinite for exact work. In removing the stock for a joint, work accurately to line, but never cut it away. Cuts should be made with a saw, if possible, and should be made so accurately that no fitting with the chisel need be done to make a neat, close-fitting joint. Neither the wood file nor sandpaper should ever be used in making a joint, for a good-fitting, workmanlike result cannot be obtained by their use. Braced frame construction of houses has been quite extensively replaced by the balloon construction, so that few joints are now used in house building. The simplest joints with the least number of bearing surfaces should be used. The making of joints affords an excellent opportunity to give practice in the tool operations, and students should be able to make in a workmanlike manner any of those shown in PLATE I before attempting the carpentry problems. (18) Butt Joint Studding Jo/sfs Casing Oblique Butt Joint Gracing mtreJoint Rafters noutdings Fascia, Piancfier OripCap DadoJoini Di'av\itrs TanHQ Butt \ii//tt} Shoulder Post and Beam TanKs Chd Half Lap Si/Is °"^'^^ flooring ^ Cross Half Lap TUnHs Sills PLATE I. Joints TJsed In Carpentry, Giving Name of Joints and Where They Are Used. (19) Half Lap Dove Tail Open BeyeledJfil/c^ W noKlfSe and Tenon Posts Gifts BndqeJoinf^"x3"x20". Putty. Wood stain. Wood filler. Linseed oil. Varnish. Alabastine. Outside priming paint. Two colors of paint for outside painting. SUGGESTIONS The method of construction in this problem varies from the construction shown in PLATE IL The header is placed inside of the studding, which extends down to the sill. This makes an air space between the header and the sheathing. The corner post is made of two 2 x 4's nailed together. If the furring is well nailed so that the lath can be securely fastened, a solid corner will be obtained. It is a method commonly used. The drip cap here used may be made by ripping a board about 2" wide, beveling, and placing as indicated. 5^" maple flooring is used quite exten- sively for a finishing floor, and is satisfactory if well laid on an even, rough floor, and is covered largely by a rug. All finish flooring should be scraped smooth and sandpapered before applying oil or varnish. (30) v5///, r/oor and Wall ConefKuction /s Cornel' Goara- Paper Lapn Sub Sill Furring Lap Siding Sole Piece Paper Drip Cap Sheathing Water Table Furring nortar Oead/l/rSpace PLATE IV. Door, Window, Sill, Floor and Wall Construction. (36) Fig. 5. Inside View of Problem Three. " (In actual building construction the rough flooring is laid diagonally, instead of the manner shown here). (37) Fig. 6. A Side View of Problem Three. (39) Fig. 7. Outside View of Problem Three. (411 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 43 SUGGESTIONS. (PLATE IV) The drawing in PLATE IV is slightly different from the project represented in the photographs accompanying this problem, though the construction and work in general are the same. The 2 X 4's are doubled around openings. Particular effort should be made to keep the studding plumb and the horizontal members level. The rough flooring is shown as it should be placed in a house. In constructing this problem, however, it is well to lay it at right angles to the joists, as is shown in PLATES II and III, thus giving a nailing surface for each end of each piece. Oak finish flooring is used for the best class of interior finish. The boards should be laid so that the grain of the wood matches well. Only sufficient of the window appears in this problem to show how the parts are constructed and assembled. PROBLEM FOUR INTERIOR WALL FRAMING AND FINISH. (PLATE V) and MATERIAL Joists, 2" X 10" X r 4". Rough flooring, 6 feet. Studding, 2"x4"xll' 2". Sole piece, 2" x 4" x 3' 2" Lath, 18 common 4'. Plaster, about 10 pounds wood fibre. Maple flooring, 33^ surface feet. Soft wood flooring, 1 square foot. Furring, 12 linear feet. Hardwood door casing, 1" x 4" x 4' 6" Hardwood door jamb, 1" x 5^" x 18". Jointed door jamb, 1 piece hardwood 1 piece softwood 1" x 2^" x 18". Soft wood door casing, 1" x 4" x 18". Threshold, hardwood, K"x3J^"x3". Stop bead, 3^"x l5-^"x 18". Three-member base, hardwood 3' 1". Three-member base, softwood 1' 73^" Linoleum, 1 square foot. Small quantity: Wood stain. Interior paint. Varnish. Raw linseed oil. Alabastine. Nails. One door hinge, 3" butt. SUGGESTIONS Joists are always doubled if a wall is to be supported as shown in PLATE V. They are usually placed about 2 inches apart, so as to permit water and gas pipes to be built in where they will not be exposed in the rooms. Where two walls meet, the stud- ding should be placed as indicated, to prevent cracks in the corners of the rooms. This problem represents three adjoining rooms, and each room may be finished to suit the particular purpose for which it may be intended. The doorway between the kitchen and the adjoining room is constructed so as to be closed with a door. The threshold is sometimes omitted, making it easier to sweep the doorway. When two adjoining rooms are finished with different woods, the jamb of a door between the rooms is jointed, (44) Interior Vial I rraming and Hnish Softwood r/nish Softwood noor\ PLATE V. Interior Wall Framing and Finish. Problem Four. (45) 46 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY one half of the jamb being made of the wood used in one room and the other half of wood used in the other. Where two adjoining rooms are separated by a door, different color of stain, paint, or plaster finish may be used for each room; but where two rooms are separated by an archway, the finish in the two rooms should be alike. A maple finish floor is usually laid in kitchens, and is the best floor for that place; but when a floor is to be entirely covered with linoleum, as in this problem, a soft wood floor is satisfactory. PROBLEM FIVE WINDOW CONSTRUCTION. (PLATE VI) MATERIAL Wall frame, 2" x 4" x 34' (linear). Window sill, 2" x 8" x 2' lYz". Window jamb, 1" x 4^" x 6' 6". Blind stop, l"x lH"x6' 6". Outside casing, 1 piece 1}/^" x i' 8J^", 1 piece lK"x5"xl' 11 J^". Parting strip, J^" x 1" x 6' 2". Sheathing, 20 board feet of 1" lumber (shiplap or hemlock matched fencing). Drip cap, 1 piece 1" x 2" x 6' 9". Building paper, 20 square feet. Frieze, 1 piece 1" x 6" x 4' 9". Water table, 1 piece 1" x 8" x 4' 9". Lip siding, 52 linear feet of 5". Lath, }/2 bundle. Plaster, 20 pounds wood fibre. Window stool, 1" X 4" x 2' 1". Window casing, 1" x 4" x 6' 5". Window apron, 1" x 4" x 2' 1". Stop bead, 3^" x 23^" x 5' 11". Cap trim, 1 piece 2' 3". Cove mould, 1 piece 2' 5". Fillet, 1 piece H"xlH"x2' 1". Glass, 2 panes 12" x 12". Window sash, for two panes 12" x 12". Sash cord, 4 feet. Window weights, 2. Sash cord pulleys, 2. Putty. Exterior paint for lap siding. Exterior paint for trimming window frame, frieze, and water table. Stain, wood filler, and varnish for finish- ing interior casing and baseboard. Alabastine, calcimine, or interior paint for plaster. SUGGESTIONS The wall frame at the bottom of the drawing shows the framing used to accommo- date the window in the problem. The 2 x 4's are doubled in actual practice, but need not necessarily be doubled in this project, since the framework is sufficiently strong, and less lumber will be required if they are left single. The problem accommodates two panes of glass 12" X 12". In placing the lap siding (47) o U o I -rrr'P-^ ■!?'• %i ■< (48) Fig. 8. Interior View of Window and Wall. Problem Five. (49) PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 51 the distance to be covered should be care- fully spaced so that the upper edge of one board will be in line with the lower edge of the window sill, another in line with the drip cap, and the upper edge of the upper piece should reach the frieze without ripping. For outside window casing, 1)^" lumber is used. The inside casing may be made of oak, birch, cypress, or pine. Oak is the most satisfactory wood for interior finishing. It should be carefully planed and scraped before being placed. In finishing, two colors of paint are used on the outside, the body paint for the lap siding, and a trimming for the frieze, casing, drip cap, and water table. The interior is finished by applying one coat each of wood stain, wood filler, and varnish. A flat varnish may be used if a dull finish is desired. Two shades of plaster finish may be used and applied, as shown in the picture of the project, or the whole wall may be covered with one coat. ROOF CONSTRUCTION There are four kinds of rafters; namely, common, hip, valley, and jack rafters. The common rafter has three cuts; namely, plumb, heel, and end cuts. The others each have four; namely, plumb, end, heel, and side cuts. Roof framing consists principally in finding the length of rafters and laying out the cuts. A modern steel square has the figures on the blade which must be used for laying out any of the above cuts for any pitch of roof. The figures in the tables following are taken from the steel square and are placed in this way for convenience and study. As indicated in PLATE VIII, the pitch, run, and lookout of a roof must be known before the rafters can be laid out. By span of a building is meant the dis- tance from the outside of one side wall plate to the outside of the opposite wall plate. (PLATE VIII.) By run is meant one-half of the span. (PLATE VIII.) By rise is meant the distance a roof rises to a foot of its run. (PLATE VIII.) Rafter Framing Table for Common and Jack Rafters. {PLA TE VII) 15-24 = ^, use 12" for run, 15" for rise, 12-24 = H. use 12" for run, 12" for rise, 9-24 = ^, use 12" for run, 9" for rise, 8-24 = 3^, use 12" for run, 8" for rise, 6-24 = M. use 12" for run, 6" for rise, 4-24 = 1^, use 12" for run, 4" for rise. for 5^ pitch, for 3^ pitch, for ^ pitch, for 3^ pitch, for J^ pitch, for 1^ pitch. hypotenuse 19.20" hypotenuse 16.97" hypotenuse 15.00" hypotenuse 14.42" hypotenuse 13.41" hypotenuse 12.64" Rule : — To find the length of a common rafter, use the length of the hypotenuse (of the pitch used) as many times as there are feet in the run plus the number of feet or parts of a foot in the lookout. (52) ^ vj w / / / / • 1 -t2 a / y _, -5' M ' X ^ " //\yk^ .- -5 '/ -^ -^ 1 1 1 1 1 M M 1 1 l^f'T'l'l 1 1 1 M 1 r ~l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 /Z" /^I'Qun ~74'lsp> \an PLATE VII. Illustrating Pitch of Roof. The position which rafters will have when a roof is framed at a certain pitch is shown by the dotted lines. For example, the dotted line connecting 4 and 12 represents the position of a rafter at J^ pitch; the line connecting 6 and 12 represents the position of a rafter at J^ pitch, etc. (53) Ell /o/fchj = /e.97" run cj' lookout / ie.97' 4- 9 12 67.38 S- 7se\^ EL '^/r i '/?i/n —TofalRund- e'span pihhj-. /&B7" runs' ) ., /ooHout/&' 1 /e.97' 4.S 6733 ,, iz\7e.J6S 6-4.36" PLATE VIII. Roof Construction. Illustrating Ae Way in Which the Steel Square is Used in Determining the Length and Cuts of Rafters. (54) /2-^r-> IT ^^ V^'^V .,21- C^' 0^ 0^^ PLATE IX. The Cuts of Rafters and How Determined. (55) 56 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Rafter Framing Table for Hip and Valley Rafters. Use 17" for run and 15" for rise for ^ pitch hypotenuse 22.67" Use 17" for run and 12" for rise for 3^ pitch hypotenuse 20.8" Use 17" for run and 9" for rise for ^ pitch hypotenuse 19.23" Use 17" for run and 8" for rise for }4 pitch hypotenuse 18.78" Use 17" for run and 6" for rise for K pitch hypotenuse 18.02" Use 17" for run and 4" for rise for J/^ pitch hypotenuse 17.46" The rule for finding the length of a common rafter applies also to hip and valley rafters. The difference is that 17" is always used for the run of a hip or valley rafter, and the hypotenuse is thus a different length. The above table gives the hypotenuse for each of the six common pitches. Table Showing Cuts of Hip, Valley, and Jack Rafters. % pitch 3^ pitch H pitch M pitch Ji pitch Ve pitch Plumb, end, and heel cut, hip or valley rafter 17-15 17-12 17-9 17-8 17-6 17-4 Side cut of hip or valley rafter 6-8 9-11 7-8 9-10 15-16 7-7M Plumb, end, and heel cut of jack rafter. 12-15 12-12 12-9 12-8 12-6 12-4 Side cut of jack rafter 10-16 12-17 12-15 10-12 9-10 9-9K PROBLEM SIX CORNER HIP BOX CORNICE, i/^ PITCH. (PLATES X AND XI) MATERIAL Studding, 4 pieces 2" x 4" x 3'. Plate, 3 pieces 2" x 4" x 18", 1 piece 2" X 4" X 14". Hip rafter, 1 piece 2" x 6" x 4' 6". Jack rafters, 2 pieces 2" x 4" x 3' 7.6". 2 pieces 2" x 4" x 2' 0". Lookout blocks, 4 pieces 2" x 4" x 16", 1 piece 2" x 4" x 18". Ceiling joists, 1 piece 2" x 6" x 18". Lath, about 18 common. Plaster, about 10 pounds wood fibre. Sheathing, 6 board feet of 1" lumber. Paper, 6 square feet building paper. Frieze board, 2 pieces 1" x 8" x 19". Corner board, 1 piece 13^"x4"xl3", 1 piece iy8"x3"x 13". Lap siding, 8 pieces (5"), 15" long. Plancher, 2 pieces 1" x 10" x 2' 6". Fascia, 2 pieces 1" x 6" x 2' 7". Roof boards, about 10 board feet 1" lumber. Crown moulding, 5' 6". Bed moulding, 3' 4". Shingles, about 8 square feet, 43^" to weather. Exterior paint, two kinds, one for body, one for trimming. Interior paint, alabastine, calcimine, or other interior finish. SUGGESTIONS The cornice projects must be kept plumb and level while in the process of construction, and absolute accuracy must be insisted upon in finding the lengths and laying out the cuts of the rafters. The cuts should be laid out around the stock and the stock held in a vise while the cuts are being made. The use of the vise, however, should be discontinued and the rafter held on saw benches for saw- ing as soon as the workman has acquired sufficient skill to insure accurate work by use of the latter method. The corner must be kept square or it will be difficult to make the finishing lumber fit. In the roof framing problems, the corner hip indicated has been selected because it (57) rmminq ofHipBoxComicciPitch /a PLATE X. Framing of Hip Box Cornice H Pitch. Problem Six. (38) r/n/iSh ofHip BoxCornice^J P/tch iS/i/ngles Roof Booms Crown- Mouldinq fosc/o P/oncher Bedflou/di, rneze (Sheoth/ng Building Paper Lap hiding PLATE XI. Sketch of Inside View of Hip Box Cornice, }4 Pitch. Problem Six. (59) 60 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY furnishes all of the cuts for hip, jack, and The cornice problems should not be common rafters, and by referring to the rules undertaken until a thorough study has been and tables each length and cut may be de- made of the steel square as applied to roof termined. framing. Fig. 9. Inside View ofj|Hip||Box^Cornice. Problem Six. (61) Fig. 10. Outside View of Hip Box Cornice. Problem Six. (63) PROBLEM SEVEN CORNER HIP COTTAGE CORNICE, % PITCH. (PLATES Xn AND XIH) MATERIAL Studding, 4 pieces 2" x 4" x 2' 6". Plate, 3 pieces 2" x 4" x 18", 1 piece 2" x 4" X 14". Ledger board, 1 piece 1" x 5" x 32". Lookout and ceiling joist, 2 pieces 2"x6"x2' 6"; 1 piece 2" x 6" x 2' 4"; 1 piece 2"x6"xl6"; 1 piece 2"x6"xl8". Rafters, hip rafter 4' 3"; 2 jack rafters 2" X 4" X 3' 6"; 2 jack rafters 2" x 4" x 2' 0" Sheathing, 6 board feet of 1" lumber. Paper, 6 square feet of building paper. Plancher, 1 piece l"xll"x4' 8". Frieze board, 1 piece 1" x 8" x 3' 4" Lap siding, 8' (linear) of 4". Roof boards, 7 board feet. Fascia, 1 piece I"x5"x4' 10". Crown moulding, 1 piece 5' 4" long. Bed moulding, 1 piece 3' 8" long. Shingles, about one-fourth of a bunch. Lath, about 8, 4 feet common. Plaster, about 8 pounds wood fibre. Priming coat, 25% white lead, 75% linseed oil. Exterior paint. Interior paint, frescoat, calcimine, ala- bastine, or muresco. SUGGESTIONS In constructing the cottage or bungalow cornice, the ceiling joists need not be so heavy, for these joists have no great weight to carry. They rest on the ledger board and extend by the studding 12", thus also performing the function of lookout blocks — a nailing surface for the plancher. A double 2" x 4" should be used for the plate, as shown in the framing. If the joists are placed as shown in the drawing, a piece of furring must be used between the short joists at the ledger board for nailing the lath. The problem may be constructed by extend- ing thejoist marked a; in PLATE Xllthelength of the building, thus giving a nailing surface for the lath. The short joists will then extend only to joist x, and will serve as look- out blocks. Placing the roof boards about 1}^" apart gives the roof a better opportunity to dry . Matched ceiling is very frequently used for the plancher in bungalow construction. (65) J. rmming of Cot to qe Cornices Pitch dide Cut of Hip Rafter Side Cut of JacH flatter < \ \ / =>/umb Cut of JacK Rafter ■£-2'WP/ofe //ee/Cut 2!'){6'i/Oi6f%:/2" Loo/ - 1 I •)« \^ \ du/-;//Dfl\ (82) rmm/nq ofPorch Roof w/th Rcturnd Pitch PLATE XIX. Sketch of Porch Roof with Return, K Pitch. Problem Ten. (8.3) Fig. 13. View Showing Framing of Porch with Return, }4 Pitch. Problem Ten. (8.5) Fig. 14. View Showing Finish of Return. Problem Ten. Fig. IS. View Showing Ceiling of Porch with Return. Problem Ten. (89) PROBLEM ELEVEN HIP PORCH ROOF. (PLATES XX AND XXI) X 10'. MATERIAL Bearing joists, 2" x 6" x 12'. Lookout and ceiling joists, four 2" x 4" Jack rafters, 2" x 4" x 16'. Hip rafter, 2" x 6" x 6' Casing, 1" X 73/i" x 12' and 1" x 4" x G'. Fascia, I"x5"x4' 2" Matched ceiling, 20 feet. Roof boards, 16 feet. Shingles, J^ bunch. Tin hip shingles, 4. Crown moulding, 8' 6". Bed moulding, 12'. Putty. Linseed oil and varnish for ceiling. Outside paint. SUGGESTIONS Porch roofs are usually built with a re- turn or with a hip. The framing of the bearing and ceiling joists is nearly the same in either case. The main difference is in the manner of building the roof. Matched ceiling is very frequently used for the plancher, and, like the ceiling, is finished with oil and varnish. In this problem the side casing extends over and below the under casing of the bear- ing joists. This is better construction than the method used in PLATE XVIII, as it prevents moisture from gathering and being held on the casing. (91) rrominq of Hip Porch Roof^Pifch LooHout\ CeilingJoi^t PLATE XX. The Framework of Hip Porch Roof of M Pitch. Problem Eleven. (92) rinish of Hip Porch Roof, ^ Pitch ^notched Ceiling COi'enouldinq m/- Ploncher Crown nou/d/na PLATE XXI. Sketch of Hip Porch Roof, M Pitch, as Finished. Problem Eleven. (93) PROBLEM TWELVE VALLEY CORNICE, H PITCH. (PLATES XXII AND XXHI) MATERIAL > 5 pieces 2" x 4" x 12'. Studding Plate Jack rafters Lookout blocks Valley rafters, 2" x 6" x 4' 6". Sheathing, 16 board feet. Building paper, 16 square feet. Corner boards, Ii^"x8"x2' 6' Frieze, 1" x 10" x 8' 6" Plancher, 1" x 10^" x 10' 0". Fascia, 1" x 5M" x 10' 0". Lap siding, 14 board feet. Roof boards, 26 board feet. Crown moulding, 12'. Cove moulding, 6' 6". Tin, 1 piece 14" x 4' 6". Shingles, 1 bunch. Lath, 1 bundle. Plaster, 3^ sack of wood fibre. Nails. Putty. Exterior paint, two kinds. Alabastine or other plaster finish. SUGGESTIONS In framing this problem, particular care must be taken to keep the studding plumb and the corners square. The same figures are used for finding the length and cuts of the valley rafters as are used for hip rafters. In this problem the plancher is nailed to the lower edge of the rafters and the lookout blocks. In building a tin valley gutter, tin of not less than 14" in width should be used, and not more than 2" exposed. This amount of exposed surface will carry away the water properly; whereas the rain will beat up under the shingles and cause the roof to leak if tin narrower than 14" is used. Some builders bring the shingles together in the valley, entirely concealing the tin. This is not good construction, for the water gets under the shingles and causes them to decay rapidly. (94) rraminq of l/al/ey Cornice J P/fch PLATE XXII. Framework of Valley Cornice. Problem Twelve. (95) riniJh of Vol lei/ Cor nicc,^ Pitch Corncf Board PLATE XXIII. Sketch of Finished Valley Cornice. Problem Twelve. (96) APPENDIX CARPENTER'S SPECIFICATIONS The following "Carpenter's Specifica- tions" should be studied in connection with the carpentry problems while they are in the process of construction. These specifications do not in all instances apply to the problems in this book, but represent a typical set of specifications which carpenters must follow. 1. Lumber. 2. Frame work. 3. Joists. 4. Posts. 5. Special framing. 6. Bridging. 7. Studding. 8. Grounds. 9. Wall plates. 10. Rafters. 11. Sheathing. 12. Building paper. 13. Cornice. 14. Outside finish. 15. Shingles. 16. Roofs. 17. Scuttle. 18. Porches. 19. Columns, Balusters, and RaiHng. 20. BHnd floors. 21. Attic floors. 22. Maple flooring. 23. Window frames. 24. Sash. 25. Window stops. 26. Outside door frames. 27. Inside door frames. 28. Doors. 29. Thresholds. 30. Inside finishing. 31. Casings. 32. Picture moulding. 33. Plate rail. 34. Fixtures. 35. Stairs. 36. Wood in stairs. 37. Hand rails. 38. Porch steps. 39. Shelves. 40. Closets. 41. Drain board. 42. Window weights. 43. Basement sash. (97) 98 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 44. Flooring divisions. 45. Rubbish. 1. Lumber. — All lumber used in the construction and finishing of this building is to be thoroughly seasoned pine, unless otherwise specified, free from defects that impair its strength or appearance, and in all cases fit for the purpose intended. 2. Frame Work. — ^All work must be done in a substantial, worknianlike manner; the frame work is to be straight, plumb and true, well spiked and sized to a uniform width, of dimensions specified and indicated in the plan. 3. Joists. — Joists are to be doubled under all partitions running parallel with them; also double all headers and trimmers. All joists are to be placed with- the crowning edge up, 16 inches o. c, and crosswise of building, unless otherwise indicated. 4. Posts. — Posts in basement are to be surfaced . 5. Special Framing. — In framing joists and setting studding for partitions, pay particular attention to the location of heat- ing and plumbing pipes, so that no cutting will be necessary after floors are laid. 6. Bridging. — The bridging is to be made of sound lumber 1" x 3", well fitted and put in as soon as the joists are leveled and spiked. with two lOd nails at each end. Joists of from 9 to 12 feet bearing are to have one row; 12 to 18 feet bearing, two rows; 18 to 25 feet, three rows. 7. Studding. — The studding is to be straight and of uniform width, set 16" o. c. for all frame walls and partitions. To be doubled at all corners of house and angles of rooms and around all doors and windows. 8. Grounds. — Grounds for all casings, bases, wall rails, and wainscoting caps are to be put on straight and true, J^" thick where lime mortar is used, and J^" thick where hard or patent plaster is used. 9. Wall Plates. — Wall plates for outside walls and for partitions at top are to be doubled, 2" thick by width of studding, with joints lapped at least 4 feet. 10. Rafters. — All common and jack rafters are to be 2" x 4" and placed 20" o. c. Valley and hip rafters are to be 2 inches wider and 2 inches thicker than common rafters. 11. Sheathing. — The frame work of out- side walls, roofs, and decks are to be lined with 6" matched and dressed hemlock or Georgia pine fencing, face and blind nailed through each piece with 8d nails to each stud, rafter, or joist. All sheathing must be free from shakes, holes, and loose and bad knots. PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 99 12. Building Paper. — AH sheathing of walls is to be covered with a standard 3-ply building paper. Paper is to be brought close under casings, around corners, and under frieze. All joints are to lap at least 1 inch and be securely fastened. 13. Cornice. — The plancher of the cor- nice is to be made of yellow pine matched ceiling, blind and face nailed. The fascia is to extend below the plancher % inch. 14. Outside Finish. — All exterior finish- ing lumber is to be white pine, free from sap, shake, holes, and large, loose or bad knots, and finished as shown in plans. Where siding is shown on plan, a 1-inch lap is to be provided and siding securely nailed to each studding. 15. Shingles. — Where shingles are indi- cated on walls, each shingle is to be fastened with two large-head galvanized iron shingle nails. No shingle wider than 8" is to be used. All joints are to be carefully broken and shingles are to be arranged in courses as indicated. All shingles are to be well seasoned Washington extra "Star A Star" red cedar. 16. Roofs. — All roofs are to be covered with extra "Star A Star" brand cedar shingles, 4:}4" to the weather, joints carefully broken, with a side lap of not less than 2"; each shingle -to be fastened down with not less than two large-head galvanized iron shingle nails. 17. Scuttle. — There is to be a scuttle in the roof with an 18" x 24" clear opening. Lid and flange are to be made of common flooring and provided with hook and fasten- ings. The lid is to fit snug on 2" thick sur- faced frame, and be clear of roof shingles. 18. Porches. — ^All porch floors are to be 134" X 4" matched and dressed select flooring. Each joint is to be laid in white lead. Floor is to have a pitch of 1 inch to 6 feet. The porch ceilings are to be covered with matched and dressed, beveled, yellow pine ceiling. Angles in ceiling are to be finished with I" cove moulding. 19. Columns, Balusters, and Railing. — Columns are to be built up in sections, and all joints of columns, balusters, and railing are to be laid in white lead. 20. Blind Floors. — Where double floors are to be laid as indicated, the first or rough floor is to be of hemlock boards dressed to an even thickness, laid diagonally, double face nailed to each bearing, closely joined and free from holes. 21. Attic Floors. — The attic floor is to be of matched and dressed fencing, fit up between rafters and up to roof boards. 22. Maple Flooring. — Maple flooring y^" X 2J^" face is to be used for finishing all 100 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY interior floors excepting the attic. It must be clear grade, of uniform color, and be end matched as well as matched and dressed. The lumber is to be thoroughly seasoned and kiln dried. The hardwood floors are not to be laid until all casings and baseboards are on, doors hung, and interior woodwork given two coats by painter. All floors are to be scraped flush and sandpapered smooth. 23. Window Frames. — ^AU window frames are to be made of No. 1 soft pine with cast- iron pulleys 2" in diameter. Frames are to be made according to details. Window sills are to have a ^" groove at bottom to admit lap siding. 24. Sash. — The sash are to be made of soft pine 1^" thick, and are to slide smoothly and fit closely at the completion of the build- ing. 25. Window Stops. — All window stops are to be fastened with adjustable window stop fasteners, which are to be placed 18" o. c. 26. Outside Door Frames. — The outside door frames are to be 1^4" thick and rabbet- ed for doors, with casings to correspond with windows. 27. Inside Door Frames. — The inside door frames are to be 13^" thick if made of pine, and %" thick if made of hardwood. The wood is to correspond with the finish of apartments. 28. Doors. — Front outside door and doors of main apartments are to be 1^^" thick, veneered with wood to match apartments in which they show. The cove is to be made of pine strips in most approved method. All doors are to be designed according to plans in details. The rest of the inside doors above the basement are to be built of soft pine 1^" thick. The inside basement doors are to be built of soft pine l}i" thick. The rear entrance door is to be built of soft pine IM" thick. 29. Thresholds. — All outside doors are to be provided with thresholds ^" thick, of wood to match the floors on which they are fitted. 30. Inside Finishing. — No inside finish- ing is to be done until the plaster is thoroughly dry. All wood must be of good quality which will take either a natural or a stained finish. The woodwork must be of thoroughly sea- soned kiln-dried lumber and must be neatly smoothed off, sandpapered, and left clean for the painter. 31. Casings. — All door casings are to PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 101 be set back 34" on the jambs at both sides and top. The window casings are to be set flush with the edge of the jambs and the joints covered with window stops. 32. Picture Moulding. — Picture mould- ing is to be provided for all halls and rooms, except kitchen, and placed as indicated. 33. Plate Rail.— A plate rail is to be placed in dining room as indicated, of the design shown in details. 34. Fixtures. — ^The carpenter is to pro- vide the woodwork for whatever fixtures the plans call for, of wood to match the finish of apartments. 35. Stairs. — The inside stairs are to have the treads and risers housed into the wall strings and wedged and glued together. They are to be built on substantial carriages. 36. Wood in Stairs. — ^The treads and platforms of stairs must be of wood to match the floors of adjoining room, and the risers are to be of wood to match the finish of the apartments. 37. Hand Rails. — Hand rail with bal- usters of design shown in details is to be provided for open stringers. 38. Porch Steps. — Porch steps are to have 1^" treads, made in two sections with open joints 3^" wide, with cove finish. The risers are to be J4" thick mitered into the plank open end stringer. 39. Shelves. — Pantry and closets are to be provided with shelves of neatly finished lumber. 40. Closets. — All closets are to be pro- vided all around with l"x4" chamfered- edge cleats for clothes hooks, of height shown. 41. Drain Board. — The kitchen sink is to be provided with a drain board of maple 13^" thick, with drawers and cabinet beneath as shown in plans. 42. Window Weights. — All windows above basement are to be hung and balanced with best quality sash cord and provided with locks and lifts. 43. Basement Sash. — The basement sash are to be hung at top rail to top jamb by two butts. They are to be fastened with two eccentric sash fasteners at lower edge to sill and, when open, with hook and eye to joist above. 44. Flooring Divisions. — The partitions indicated in the basement are to be of matched and dressed flooring, surfaced -both sides, with 2" X 4" dressed girts at top and bottom. 45. Rubbish. — All rubbish in and about the house caused by the carpenter is to be entirely removed and the building left broom clean before inside painting is commenced. BILLS OF LUMBER A Typical Bill of Lumber for a Bungalow. Number of pieces Description Feet Price per M 299 128.00 528 28.00 355 28.00 1,056 33.00 320 31.00 205 33.00 140 30.00 256 32.00 96 34.00 43 34.00 33 32.00 23 30.00 704 28.00 224 27.00 767 28.00 720 29.00 300 31.00 327 29.00 128 30.50 2,700 25.00 Amount 14 33 19 33 12 7 7 3 1 1 1 1 44 16 115 60 25 35 12 2"x8"x 16' 2" X 8" X 12' 2" X 8" X 14' 2" X 8" X 24' 2" X 8" X 20' 2" X 8" X 22' 2" X 6" X 20' 8" X 8" X 16' 8" X 8" X 18' 8" X 8" X 8' 2" X 10" X 20' 2" X 10" X 14' 2" X 6" X 16' 2" X 6" X 14' 2" X 4" X 10' 2" X 4" X 18' 2" X 4" X 18' 2" X 4" X 14' 2" X 4" X 16' White pine, sized . Norway pine . White pine, sized . Hemlock, sized . .... White pine, sized . u a it " " dressed one side and one edge Hemlock boards dressed one side . . (102) $ 8.37 14.78 9.94 34.85 9.92 6.77 4.20 8.19 3.26 1.46 1.06 .69 19.71 6.05 21.48 20.18 9.30 9.48 3.90 67.50 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY A Typical Bill of Lumber jor a Bungalow — (Continued). 103 Number of Price pieces Size Description Feet per M. Amount 6" Hemlock matched fencing 2,100 $25.00 $ 52.50 4" Beveled siding, pine 2,100 35.00 73.50 2M" No. 1 maple flooring 1,400 42.00 58.80 4" No. 1 matched fencing, pine . 1,500 31.00 46.50 I)i"x4"x7' Fir flooring . 65 50.00 3.25 lM"x4"x8' it iC 140 50.00 7.00 4 2" X 6" X 10' No. 1 Soft pine, dressed two sides. . 40 28.50 1.14 1 2" X 12" X 12' a ti u u ic a 24 33.50 .80 Vs" X 4" " " yellow pine beveled ceiling . . 650 33.00 21.45 lK"x4" " " white pine, dressed one side and two edges 350 50.00 17.50 6 lJi"x 12"xl2' Select cypress, dressed two sides. . . . 90 55.00 4.95 5 lM"xl2"x 16' a it a a a 120 60.00 7.20 1" X 8" ic u a a a 400 48.00 19.20 l"x6" it a ii u a 300 47.00 14.10 6 IJi" x 8" X 12' 11 u a ii " 60 55.00 3.30 6 4" X 4" X 14' White pine, dressed four sides 112 34.00 3.81 18M Extra Star A Star shingles . 3.75 67.50 Total \" ■ $664.16 104 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Typical Bill of Lumber for Interior Finishing of Bungalow. 1 Window, 3' 6" x 5', l%", 2 lights, open. 2 Windows, 1' 8" x 5', 1^", 2 lights, open. 4 Windows, 2' 4" x 6', lYs", 2 lights. open. 3 Windows, 1' 6"x2' 6", 1^", 1 light, open. 2 Windows, 2' 2" x 5', 1^", 1 light. open. 4 Windows, 2' 0" x 2' 4", 1^", 1 light, open. 2 Doors, 2' 10" x 6' 8", 1^", 1 panel, 1 glass 2' 0" X 4' 1" oak veneered. 3 Doors, 2' 3" x 6' 8", lY^", 5 cross panels, oak veneered. 6 Doors, 2' 6" x 6' 6", 1^", 5 cross panels, cypress. 1 Window frame 3' 10" x 5' 6" 2 Window frames 2' 0" x 5' 6" 4 Window frames 2' 8" x 6' 6". 3 Window frames 1' 10" x 3' 0" 2 Window frames 2' 6" x 5' 6". 4 Window frames 2' 4" x 2' 10". 6 Side casings, 5' 6", red oak. 6 Side casings, 6' 6", red oak. 6 Casings, 3' 0", red oak. 4 Casings, 5' 6", cypress. 8 Casings, 2' 10", cypress. 1 Head casing, 4' 6", red oak. 2 Head casings, 2' 8", red oak. 4 Head casings, 3' 4", red oak. 3 Head casings, 2' 6", red oak. 2 Head casings, 3' 2", cypress. 4 Head casings, 3' 0", cj'press. 1 Window stool, 4' 8", red oak. 2 Window stools, 2' 10", red oak. 4 Window stools, 3' 6", red oak. 3 Window stools, 2' 8", red oak. 2 Window stools, 3' 4", cypress. 4 Window stools, 3' 2", cypress. 2 Window stools, 2' 10", red oak. 4 Window stools, 3' 6", red oak. 3 Window stools, 2' 8", red oak. 2 Window stools, 3' 4", cypress. 4 Window stools, 3' 2", cypress. 1 Window apron, 4' 6", red oak. 2 Window aprons, 2' 8", red oak. 4 Window aprons, 3' 4", red oak. 3 Window aprons, 3' 4", red oak. 3 Window aprons, 2' 6", red oak. 2 Window aprons, 3' 2", cypress. 4 Window aprons, 3' 0", cypress. 6 Pieces window stop, 16', red oak. 2 Pieces window stop, 14', red oak. 1 Piece window stop, 8', red oak. 2 Pieces window stop, 14', cypress. 3 Pieces window stop, 12', cypress. PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 105 2 Door frames, 2' 10" x 6' 8", 5?^" wide, red oak. 3 Door frames, 2' 8" x 6' 8", 5Ji" wide, red oak. 6 Door frames, 2' 6" x 6' 6", 5}i" wide, cypress. 16 Side casings, 6' 8", red oak. 24 Side casings, 6' 6", cypress. 2 Head casings, 3' 6", red oak. 6 Head casings, 3' 4", red oak. 12 Head casings, 3' 2", cypress. 168 Feet (linear) baseboard, oak. 168 Feet (lipear) floor shoe, oak. 180 Feet (linear) baseboard, cypress. 180 Feet (linear) floor shoe, cypress. 128 Feet picture moulding, oak. 112 Feet picture moulding, cypress. 3 Pieces door stop, 16'. 2 Pieces door stop, 14'. 1 Piece door stop, 6'. 3 Pieces 1" x 12" x 3' 6" cypress shelving for closets. 36 Feet (linear) closet strips. 1 Side board 6' 6" x 20" x 6' 8" high, red oak as per drawings. 1 Medicine case 24" x 28" x 5}i" deep, open for mirror, cypress. 1 Flight of stairs, red oak as per draw- ings. 2 Thresholds, 3'. 76 Tile cap moulding. 150 Feet 33^" crown moulding. 100 Feet 2^" bed moulding. 36 Feet top porch rail. 36 Feet bottom porch rail. 230 Feet baluster stock. 100 Feet ]/$" cove moulding. 8 Porch columns, 7' 6" 106 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Lumber Measurement Table. 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 i ■ 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 2x4 3 4 5 7 8 9 n 12 13 15 16 17 19 20 21 23 24 25 27 2x6 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 38 36 40 2x8 5 8 11 13 16 19 21 24 27 29 32 35 37 40 43 45 48 51 53 2x10 7 10 13 17 20 23 27 30 33 37 40 43 47 50 53 57 60 63 67 2x12 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 52 56 60 64 68 72 76 80 2x14 9 14 19 23 28 33 37 42 47 51 56 61 65 70 75 79 84 89 93 2x16 11 16 21 27 32 37 43 48 53 59 64 69 75 80 85 91 96 101 107 3x4 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 3x6 6 9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36 39 42 45 48 51 54 57 60 3x8 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 52 56 60 64 68 72 76 80 3x10 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 3x12 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54 60 66 72 78 84 90 96 102 108 114 120 3x14 14 21 28 35 42 49 56 63 70 77 84 91 98 105 112 119 126 133 140 3x16 16 24 32 40 48 56 64 72 80 88 96 104 112 120 128 136 144 152 160 4x4 5 8 11 13 16 19 21 24 27 29 32 35 37 40 43 45 48 51 53 4x6 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 52 56 60 64 68 72 76 80 4x8 11 16 11 27 32 37 43 48 53 59 64 69 75 80 85 91 96 101 107 6x6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54 60 66 72 78 84 90 96 102 108 114 120 6x8 16 24 32 40 48 56 64 72 80 88 96 104 112 120 128 136 144 152 160 6x10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 8x8 21 32 43 53 64 75 85 96 107 117 128 139 149 160 171 181 192 203 213 8x10 27 40 53 67 80 93 107 120 133 147 160 173 187 200 213 227 240 253 267 8x12 32 48 64 80 96 112 128 144 160 176 192 208 224 240 256 272 288 304 320 10x10 33 50 67 83 100 117 133 150 167 183 200 217 233 250 267 283 300 317 333 10x12 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400 12x12 48 72 96 120 144 168 192 216 240 264 288 312 336 360 384 408 432 456 480 12x14 56 84 112 140 168 196 224 252 280 308 336 364 392 420 448 476 504 532 560 14x14 65 98 131 163 196 229 261 294 327 359 392 425 457 490 523 555 588 621 653 PROBLEMS IK CARPENTRY 107 NAILS Wire nails is a common name for common nails, casing nails, and brads, or finishing nails. They are made from steel wire. Com- mon nails have flat heads and are used where the head is to be left flush with the surface of the wood. Casing and finishing nails are used when it is desirable to have them incon- spicuous, as for inside finish. They are sunk, or '"set," into the wood and the hole later filled with putty. The size of nail is specified by the term penny (d), prefixed by a number; as, 6d, lOd. This term had its origin in Eng- land, when it formerly represented the price in pence per pound. The other fastenings which are most ex- tensively used in carpentry work are dowels and flat and round -head screws. In timber framing, the joints are usually fastened with dowels made of hard wood, preferably maple. Flat-head bright screws are most commonly used. Hinges are usually fastened with screws of this kind, as the head of the screw sets flush v/ith the surface. Round-head blued screws are used where it is not neces- sary to have the heads flush with the surface, and when the screws become a part of the decorative scheme. Number c / Nails to the Pound Size Leng th Number per pound Common Finishing Casing 2d 1 in 860 1,558 1,140 3d com. IJi' 594 884 675 4d m' 339 767 567 od iH' 230 491 396 6d 2 ' 205 359 260 7d 2H' 135 317 239 8d ^'A' 96 214 160 9d 2H' 92 195 148 lOd 3 ' 63 134 108 12d 3M' 52 120 99 16d 3V2' 38 91 69 20d 4 ' 30 61 50 30d 4H' 23 45 40d 5 ' 17 35 oOd 5^' 13 60d 6 ' 10 Quantity of Nails per M Feet of Lumber. Sheathing, per M, 8d com 20 lbs. lOd com 25 lbs. 8d com 30 lbs. lOd com 35 lbs. Flooring, per M, 108 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Studding, per M, lOd com 14 lbs. 20d com 10 lbs. Furring, per M, lOd com 10 lbs. Finish flooring, per M, J/g" 8d fin... 20 lbs. Finishing, %" per M, 8d fin 30 lbs. Finishing, lYg" per M, lOd fin. ...40 lbs. Beveled siding, per M, 6d com. ...18 lbs. Lath, per M, 3d com 6^ lbs. Shingle, per M, 4d com 4 lbs. Sizes of Nails Balusters Baseboard Braces. ... Bridging . Ceiling Drip cap. . Door frame . Drawers Doors Fascia. Framing. Frieze Used for Given Purposes. 4d finishing. 8d finishing. 16d common. . 8d common. . 6d casing. 8d casing. 8d common. 6 and 4d casing. 6d common. 8d casing. lOd, 16d and 20d common. lOd casing. Finish floor 8d casing. Hand rail 4d and 6d casing. Inside casing 6d and 8d finishing. Inside mouldings . 6d finishing. Lath 3d fine . Lap siding 6d casing and common. Newel post 8d casing. Outside moulding 8d and 6d casing. Outside casing 8d and lOd casing. Plancher 8d casing. Roof boards 8d common. Rafters lOd and 16d spikes. Ridge board 8d common. Rough flooring 8d common. Risers 8d common. Saddle board 8d and lOd common. Shingles 3d coarse galvanized. Sheathing. 8d common. Stair stringers. 16d common. Treads 8d casing. Wainscoting. 6d common. Window frame 8d common. Water table. 8d common. BUILDER'S HARDWARE In connection with any of the carpentry problems, as supplementary work, any items in the following list of builder's hardware may profitably be studied. It is an excellent plan to have a sample on hand of what is being discussed. Students of carpentry should become sufficiently familiar with builder's hardware PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 109 to call any piece by its right name, know what it is used for, how to attach it, and its approximate purchase price. Elbow catches. Door buttons. Casement window adjusters. Sash fasteners. Hook sash lifts. Flush sash lifts. Bar sash lifts. Transom lifters. Sash weights. Frame pulleys. Drawer pulls. Flush trap door rings. Screws. Nails. Registers, faces and borders. Building papers. Prepared roofing. Plaster bead. Chimney or flue doors. Chimney caps or ventilators. Metal shingles. Ridge roll. Hip finials. Gable finials. Hip shingles. Formed valleys. Steel siding. Metal ceiling. Flashing hooks. Thumb latch. Barn door latch. Chest lock. Desk lock Drawer lock. Outside door lock sets. Mortise lock sets. Inside door lock sets. Sliding door lock sets. Office door latch sets. Cylinder door lock sets. Mortise knob lock sets. Horizontal rim dead lockf Rim knob latches. Trunk locks. Padlocks. Gate latches. Cupboard catches. Screendoor catches. T hinges. Strap hinges. Box hinges. Brass butt hinges. Steel butt hinges. Loose pin butts. Floor spring hinges. Hinge hasps. Spring bolts. 110 PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY Foot bolts. Chain bolts. Mortise door bolts. Flush bolts. Barrel bolts. Door bell. Sliding parlor door hangers. Sliding door rail. Sliding door sheaves. Barn door hangers. Barn door stay rollers. Barn door rail. Joist hangers. Coat and hat hooks. TOPICS FOR SUPPLEMENTARY STUDY 1. Wood Stains. a. Oil stains. b. Spirit stains. c. Makes of each. d. Colors. e. Color harmony of adjoining rooms and between inside finish and walls. 2. Plaster Tints. a. Makes. b. Colors. c. Color harmony between walls and ceiling and interior finish. 3. Wall Paper. a. Color. b. Design. c. Harmony of woodwork. Outside Paints. a. Makes. b. Harmony of color with interior color between body paint and trimming. 5. Paint Brushes. a. Makes. b. Sizes to use for given purposes. c. Approximate cost. 6. Shellacs. a. How made. b. Colors. c. Uses. d. Application. e. Cost. 7. Plaster. a. Kinds. b. How prepared. c. How applied. d. Approximate cost. 8. Lath. a. Quality of wood lath. b. Metal lath. 9. Shingles. a. Grade. PROBLEMS IN CARPENTRY 111 b. Life of. c. Cost. 10. Prepared Roofing. a. Kinds. b. Life of. c. Efficiency. d. Approximate cost. IL Method of Finishing Hip Roof. a. Wood shingles. b. Tin shingles. c. Ridge roll. 12. Cupboards and Drawers. 13. Kind of Hardware. 14. Number of Rooms. 15. Number of Doors. 16. Number of Windows. 17. Design of Doors. 18. Style of Windows. 19. Sizes of Doors and Windows. 20. Exterior Finish of Doors and Windows. 21. Height of Ceilings. 22. Kinds of Hardwood for Interior Finishing. 23. Styles of Newels and Balusters. 24. China Closets. 25. Size and Arrangement of Pantry. 26. Scaffolding. 27. Bridging Joists and Studding. 28. Building Papers. 29. Dormer Windows. 30. Flashings. 31. Linen Closets. 32. Built-in Window Seats. 33. Archways. 34. Cresting for Ridges. 35. Painted or Dipped Shingles. 36. Storm Sashes. 37. Storm Doors. 38. Screen Doors. 39. Screen Windows. 40. Deafening Floors. 41. Lattice Work. 42. Transom Windows. Standard Vocational Text Books Published by WEBB PUBLISHING COMPANY Saint Paul, Minnesota FIELD CROPS, by A. D. Wilson (Univ. of Minne- sota) and C. W. Warburton (U. S. Dept. of Agr.). A general text for secondary agricultural schools, cover- ing the relationships, production, improvement, mar- keting, uses, disease and insect enemies, judging, etc., of American cereal, forage, root, fiber, and other farm crops. A well balanced, satisfying book. Laboratory exercises and supplementary reading. 544 pages. 161 illustrations. Cloth bound. 12 mo. Price, $1.50 net. BEGINNINGS IN ANIMAL HUSBANDRY, by C. S. Plumb (Ohio State University). A complete animal husbandry text for agricultural schools, giving in a direct but fascinating manner foundation facts of types and breeds, judging, care and management, breeding, and feeding of farm animals, including poultry. The book stimulates and develops in the boy an appreciative interest and sense of values in animals. Supplementary exercises. 216 telling illus- trations. 393 pages. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, $1.25 net. SOILS AND SOIL FERTILITY, by A. R. Whit- eon and H. L. Walster (University of Wisconsin). This book is the strongest elementary text on the sub- ject of soils ever written. Foundation principles of soils, their origin, nature, texture, tilth, fertility, drain- age, and management are discussed from the view- point of crop production. The language used is direct and nontechnical. A favorite text for schools. A carefully selected list of laboratory experiments in- cluded. 315 pages. Well illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, $1.25 net. AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING, bv J. B. Davidson (Iowa State University). This is the only book published that covers in a satisfactory way for the use of schools the subject of Agricultural Engineer- ing. Practical and interesting matter that can be put to effective use every day in the farm is given on the subjects of agricultural surveying, drainage, and irri- gation, roads, farm machinery and motors, farm struc- tures, sanitation, and rope work. A splendid text. 554 pages. 342 illustrations. 12 mo. Cloth. Price $1.50 net. POPULAR FRUIT GROWING, by S. B. Green (Late of Univ. of Minnesota). It is the consensus of opinion among horticulturists that this book is un- equaled as a text for schools and as a guide for practical fruit growers. The principles of fruit growing are presented in this book in a manner that has been found adaptable for use in all parts of the United States. New edition revised and brought up-to-date by LeRoy Cady, Prof, of Horticulture, University of Minn. 328 pages. Illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00 net.' VEGETABLE GARDENING, by S. B. Green. This book and Popular Fruit Growing form the basis of the horticultural courses in a large number of schools and colleges in all parts of the United States. A new revised edition is in preparation. The book will be brought up-to-date and strengthened by LeRoy Cady, successor to Professor Green in the Minnesota Univer- sity. 256 pages. Profusely illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00 net. AGRICULTURE FOR YOUNG FOLKS, by A. D. and E. W. Wilson (University of Minnesota). This is without question the most practical elementary agricultural text for rural and grade .schools ever pub- lished. It presents matter that is of fundamental and vital interest to farm life and connected effectively with the experiences of young students. An efficient text in the hands of both teacher and pupil. 340 pages. Well illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00 net. ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE, by J. H. Shep- PERDand J.C. McDowell (N. D. Agricultural College). An excellent elementary text prepared especially for the public schools of the Northwest. A series of 25 exercises adapted to school conditions and vital to the subject is included. 254 pages, profusely illustrated. Price $1.00 net. DAIRY LABORATORY GUIDE, by G. L. Martin (N. Dak. Agricultural College). A handy laboratory manual of dairying for use of schools. A carefully organized series of exercises that teach most effectively the principles of modern dairy practice. Well adapted ;o agricultural schools and colleges. 140 pages, illus- trated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, 50 cents net. RULES OF ORDER for Everyday Use, by Henri" Slade Goff. Just the thing for anyone who wishes to acquire an efficient working knowledge of parlia- mentary rules without becoming burdened with tech- nicalities. Excellent for school use, and for all assem- blies. Clear, practical, authoritative. Includes civil government facts that all should know. 116 pages. 3M X SYz. Cloth. Price, 50c. FARM BLACKSMITHING, by John Drew (Min- nesota School of Agriculture). A handy guide for the beginner in blacksmithing, suitable for use in the farm workshop or in .schools. Teaches the nature of iron and steel, the processes of working them, and the mak- ing of useful farm tools and appliances. 100 pages. Illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth bound. Price, 50c. HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE, by J. L. Shepperd (University of Minnesota). A practical general text on home economics for high school and college classes. The recipes are excellent, and the suggestions in house furnishing and management, etc., are most valuable. 562 pages. Well illustrated, 6x9. Cloth bound. Price, $1.75 net. LAUNDRY WORK, by J. L. Shepperd. A valu- able text presenting the principles and practice of home and commercial laundering. Used as a class text in many schools. 116 pages. Illustrated. 12 mo. Cloth. Price, 60 cents net. NEW AND PRACTICAL SEWING COURSE, by Margaret J. Blair. A series of seven tablets, present- ing a properly graded course in sewing for public and private schools. Each tablet furnishes a year's work. Each has included the necessary practice material for the learning of processes. The making of practical garments, not models, is taught. These tablets form the best, most practical, most economical, and easiest method of teaching sewing in rural, grade, and high schools. Send for complete prospectus. Any of the above described books will be sent to any part of the world upon receipt of price plus 10 per cent extra for postage. Send for our free complete agricultural and industrial book catalog. Webb Publishing Company INDUSTRIAL BOOK PUBLISHERS SAINT PAUL, MINNESOTA