CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND GIVEN IN 1891 BY HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE Cornell University Library arV15842 Gems from the Coral Islands 3 1924 031 389 327 olin.anx Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031389327 GEMS m OK INCIDENTS OF C0NTBA9I BEIWfiEN SAVAGE AND CHRISTIAN LIFE SOUTH SEA ISLAN*DEES. THE RET. WILLIAM GILL, BAKOTONGAi EASTERN EOLyNESIA: OOMFBISINQ THE ftA'BQTONGA GROUP, PKNRIITN ISLANDS. AND SAVAGE ISLAND. PHILADELPHIA PRESBYTERIAN BOARD OP PUBLTOATION, NO, 265 CHESTNUT STREET. BTEUEOTYPED BY JESPEll HARDING & SON, NO. 57 SOUTH IHIBD BTREET, PHILADELPHIA. INTRODUCTION. The islands of the Hebvet GROtrp, whose missionary history is naiTated in this volume, are first in order of dis- covery and date of Christian instruction, ia relation to those of Western Polynesia. With a view, however, to give the reader an insight into the wretchedness and cruelty of the islanders in their heathen state, — the consequent difficulties whiqh have to be overcome, and the plans adopted, both by European missionaries and native teachers, in opening up intercourse with them, — we have noticed the last visited islands, first, and the first, last. This has been done upon the same principle, and for the same reasons, which would lead us to invite the Christian voyager who might be about to investigate for himself the progress of missions in those lands, to travel from the west to the east. In the extreme west, near Australia, he would see heathen natives in all their ruin and misery ; in the New Hebrides, and some of the adjacent islands, would be found tribes, recently visited by the Christian teacher, and who are just (iii.) IV. INTRODUCTION. emerging from their heathenism and idolatry ; and, further eastward, onward to the Earotonga group, he would discover an amount of civilization, intelligence, and Christianity, as elevated and as pure as any yet gained by the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean. Thus much of explanation is thought necessary for devi- ating from what is the chronological order of their missionary history; and now, without any remarks respecting the details of the work itself, but rather asking for them a careful and candid perusal, we would only state, that the simple design has been to colnmunicate correct information, — to record facts relative to the past history and the present state of the islands noticed, — to illustrate the efficacy of Christianity by incidents of contrast between the once savage and now. civilized condition of the islanders. This design has, we trust, in some measure been accom- plished ; and while the church of Christ gives thanks to Almighty Grod for the successes which have been gained, may it have a yet more vivid and enlightened realization of the work still to be done, and supply an increased amount . of sympathy, prayer, and instrumentality for the onward progress of Christian missions in the whole world 1 CONTENTS. THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. CHAPTER I. PAQS Islands of the Hervey Gfroup — Situation, dimensions, physical cha- racteristics of Rarotonga — Ancestral tribes of the present popu- lation — Captain Cook's discovery of the other islands in the group — Reports of hie expedition brought to Rarotonga by na- tives — The people pray to their gods that the Kookes may he brought to their island — Their prayer answered-;— Reports reach the island of the English missionaries being on Tahiti — A Sydney trading vessel visits the island — Ijengthened resi- dence of oaptain and crew — Numerous evils arising therefrom — ■ The vessel leaves the island — Natives are taken away on board, 17 CHAPTER ir. Location of the different tribes in Rarotonga — Native family^ houses, . ^ and furniture — Frequency and cruelty of their wars — Religious character of the people in their heathenism — Their gods — Their convictions of sin — Their ideas of moral evil — Ancient prophe- cies concerning the overthrow of heathenism — An example — The necessity of an atonement for sin felt by the people — Their efforts to satisfy their convictions — Occasional human sacrifices — Missionaries' visit to the oven of atonement — The belief of the people in a future state — Their ideas respecting it — The adaptation of the gospel to their wants and experiences. . 26 1* (v) VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER in. The natives taken away from the island are left at Aitutaki — They hear of Christianity there — Information respecting the island {?onveyed to the missionaries — Teachers landed on the island in 1823 — Tapaeru's reception by her countrymen — Heathen merry-making on account of her return — Night of danger to the teachers on shore — Missionaries resolve to leave the people without a teacher — -Papehia's determination to remain as teacher — Tapaeru*s influence for his safety — Surprise of the people at the new things he made known to them — His preaching to the natives in a grove of cocoa-nut trees — Their questions respecting God — They think his book to be his god — Visit of Messrs. Tyer- man and Bennett to the island — Encouraging advance of the mission. . i . . . . • .35 CHAPTER IV, European missionary resides on the island, 1827 — Separation of the tribes to their own districts — Adoption of a code of civil law — Attention of the people to planting and house-building — Build- ing of chapel at Ngatangiia— The opening service — Arrival of Rev. A. Buzacott in 1828 — A painful reaction on past successes — Moral defection in a native teacher — Opposition of heathen priesthood — Houses of the Christian party and chapels destroyed by fire — Mission house in danger — Destitution of necessary sup- plies — Heavy floods — Destruction of missionary's house — Gene- ral and fatal sid^ness — Painful and joyful deaths. . • 44 CHAPTER V. Aroran^ settlement formed — Description of the station — Happy condition of the people — New station at Titikaveka — Notice of the adult and children's schools — Observance of the Sabbath by the islanders — -Nature and object of native classes — Weekly public services — Hurricane in 1831 — Distress occasioned there- by — Fresh trials from the ungodly — Introduction of printing press to the island, 1832 — Rarotongan native Christian teachers go forth to Samoa the same year — Notice of Teava — His prayer ■ — His labours. . . . . . , .64 CHAPTER VI. Formation of Christian church on Rarotonga in 1833 — Translation of Scriptures into the native language — Notice of Rarotongan CONTENTS. yil FAQE dialect — (STew Testament in native language sent to England to be printed in 183i — Attempts to instruct the people in cotton spinning — Growth of cotton on the island — Failure of health in missionaries — Timely native assistance — Notices on the institu- tion of marriage — Statistics — Interesting united gathering of the natives — Native letters. . • . . .63 CHAPTER VII. Missionary ship Camden, 1838 — Arrives off Barotonga, 1839 — Christian village— Chapel, schpol, an^ Sabbath services — Mis- sionary house^Five thousand copies of New Testament, in native language, taken on shore — Joy of the people — Chiefs messenger from Arorangi — Young missionary takes up his resi- dence at his station — The work he has to do — First attempt in speaking the native language — Missionary makes a globe and maps — Building mission house — Fatal epidemic — Happy deaths — Orphans Of the island — Letters to friends in England — An aged native's speech. . • . . .' .72 CHAPTER YIII. Statistics of the island, 1843 — Notices respecting reported island of Tuanaki — Reports respecting Tahiti and New Zealand reach the island — Native impressions respecting those reports — Conse- quent laws — An American resides on shore — His difficulties re- specting planting and land — Befusal of land on rent to mission- ary — Formation of boarding-school — Besults — How sustained — School-recreations — An account of heathen cruelty to children — Building of a new chapel at Arorangi — Contrast with heathen temples — Death of an aged deacon. . . . .83 CHAPTER IX. Formation of an Institution on Rarotonga for the education of na- tive teachers — The desire of the natives to extend the blessing of the gospel to other lands — The building completed in 1843 — Report of Institution to 1844 — A fearful hurricane, 1846 — Its oommeneement, progress, devastation, at each settlement — Pro- ■ vidential supply of provisions after the gale — Liberal aid sent out to the island from England — Native occupation at their plantations — Subsequent restoring of the Tillages — Rev. A. Buzacott leaves the island for England. . . .92 VIU CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. PAax Daily occupation of natives — Structure and furniture of native bouses — Their meals — Their dress — ^G-eneral civilization — Daily en- gagements of a missionary with the natives — Those of mission- ary's wife^-The mission printing press — The premises, office, workmen — Statement of books printed in Barotongan language up to 1855 — Total press work for five years — Further notices of the Institution — Students' engagements and studies — Review of the results of the Institution, 1852 — Inexpensiveness of its support — Formation of Hatavera settlement — Laws respecting fermented liquors. . . . . . . . 102 CHAPTER XI. Anxieties respecting the rising generation — Statement of annual crime — Severe and general illness of the people, 1851 — A very general awakening and revival — Death of a ringleader in evil practices — The church aroused to prayer and activity — An in- stance of obdurate hardness of heart — His conversion — The revival advances — Statements of numbers brought under con- victions of sin — Letter of a native penitent — ^Speech of a native convert — An address of native to the church — A united com- munion service of all the church-members on the island — Re- port of native addresses. . . - . . . 112 CHAPTER XII. The return of Rev. A. Buzacott to the island, with first edition of complete Bible in native language — How purchased by the peo- ple — Native auxiliary missionary societies — Letters from native secretaries to the parent society — Missionary efforts among the young people of the island — Children brought from Rimitara to be educated — ^Statistics of the stations to 1853 — Notices on de- crease of population — Native sailors — Shipping trade with the islanders — How conducted, and results-— Character, life, and death of Tinomana, chief of Arorangi — Conclusion. . . 122 THE ISLAND OF MANaAIA. CHAPTER L Relative position of the island to Rarotonga — When discovered and the landing of Christian teachers — An out-station to the Tahiti mission up to 1839 — Maretu, the first Barotongan teacher sent CONTENTS. IX PAQB to the isla.nd — Native addresses on the occaaipn of missionary of Arorangi going to Mangaia — Circumstances of the voyage — A prayer of a native at sea — Circumstances of missionary laud- ing, 1841 — Weekly arrangements to attend to native inquirei'tf — A Sabbath-morning prayer meeting^— Public service — Burial service of a heathen — Native inquiries respecting ancient cus- toms — The oppressed condition of Mangaian females. . . 133 CHAPTER II. Erection of a new school house — The opening service — Native speeches — The number and character of scholars — Want of books — Parents betroth their children in infancy — -Visit to Ta- marua — A public service there — Desire of the people for a mis- sionary — Settlement of a native pastor there — Experience of a young convert — Increase of people attending Sabbath services at Oneroa — People erect galleries in the large chapel — Notice of subterranean caverns — Account of heathens on the island, 184:1 — Desire of the young people to attend the schools — Number in church communion at principal station — Native contributions to London Missionary Society — Native letter to London Mis- sionary Society. ....... 143 CHAPTER III. Calamitous accident to the native pastor — His removal to Raro- tonga— Missionary visit to Ivirua settlement — Industry of thd people and beauty of the valleys — The old natives* remem- brance of Captain Cook's visit to the island — Their sorrow at the cruel treatment of Papehia — Homage done to the first pig put on shore — Opening of a new chapel at Ivirua — Settlement of Pori there as native pastor — An English captain's unjusfc trade with the, people^— Third missionary visit to the island in 1843 — State of education at the principal station — Christian Visitors* Association — Statistics' of Oneroa — Missionary visit to a heathen family — The death of Ngatae, a native teacher. . 154 CHAPTER IV. Amusing incident connected with the first rabbit seen by the natives -^— Alarm occasioned by cats being taken to the island — Prac- tice of tattooing, and laws respecting it — Conversion of a native from an exposition of Romans vii. 9-^A native's encounter with ft shark at aea^Happy results — Third visit to Ivitua — The X CONTENTS. PAOB journey — A tale of heathen barbarity — A missionary prayer- jneeting — Schools and church of Tamarua — Historical notice of an old natire — The missionary's departure from Barotonga — Keflections. ....... 16* CHAPTER V. Another teacher sent to the island — Supply of books in native lan- guage — Appointment of English missionary to Mangaia— His landing in the year 1845 — Native speech on the occasion — Missionary daily labours among the people — Reading — Schools — Assisting in work — Building new chapel — Native laws respect- ing foreigners who came to the island — Arrival of two French- men with letter from French consul — General statistics of the island, 1845 — Native views of the past and present position of the island — Exhortations — Pleasing state of the mission on the island, January, 1846. •..••■ 174 CHAPTER VI. An account of a devastating hurricane, March, 1846 — The natives rise above their depressing circumstances — Send contributions to London Missionary Society and to Bible Society — Improve- ment of public roads round the island — Arrival of missionary ship at the island, 1848- A joyful and refreshing public service with the natives — An address on the occasion by a native — Opening of a new chapel — Present chapel and school accommo- dation on the island — Arrival of English missionary to inland stations — Pirst complete edition of Bible in native language re- ceived on shore — Effects of a rain storm — Two men, the last of the heathen families, converted — Death of the first native teacher to the island — Death of the native who first destroyed the idols of the land — Conclusion. . . . . 185 THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. CHAPTER I. Aitutaki, the third island of the group in size and population— The first visited by the Christian teacher — Mission commenced, 1821 — Success of native teachers — Complete overthrow of idolatry — The Camden, mission ship, visits the island, 1839 — Location CONTENTS. XI PAGE of Rev. H. Royle on the island — Wanton act of cruelty by a captain of an English ship — Fears of the people — Inconsistency and laxity in marriage — Evils of divorce — Evils arising from betrothment of children — Missionary fidelity and consequent troubles — Encouragement in schools — Chapel burnt down by a disaffected party — Chapel rebuilt — An attempt to set the whole settlement on fire — New chapel destroyed — Missionary's life threatened — S uccessful issue of faith^ patience, and labour. . 196 CHAPTER IL Effects of a storm on the island — Many of the most abandoned cha- racters reclaimed — Deaths of some of the missionary's early native friends — Illness of the missionary's wife — -Visit to Raro- tonga — Mutual rejoicing of the natives of both islands — A speech of an Aitutakian — State of the island in 1846 — Some reasons why a mission ship is needed for the islands — Mission- ary's ill treatment on board a ship — His danger — Another voy- age — Misconduct of seamen^A vessel wrecked on the reef of the island — Disorder introduced on shore by the crew — Euro- pean missionaries for some time required at stations visited by ships — The mission advances — Pleasing instance of a young Christian. ....... 206 CHAPTER III. An American whale ship wrecked on the island — A native letter of report — The Captain's testimony — Contrast in the cruelty of natives of a heathen island — Missionary encouragements — The church the keystone of society — State of the two stations on the island — Missionary wife— Maternal Association — Numbers in school — Missionary zeal of the native church — Its members gone to heathen lands — Devastations of a storm in 1854 — Grati- fying instance of native kindness and concern for the mission family — Ravages of measles on the island — Practical Chris- tianity of the natives — Their missionary contributions— Con- clusion. .- . • • • • • ,215 THE ISLAND OF ATIU. Tahitian natives driven to Atiu in a storm — The island discovered in 1777— First missionary visit, 1822— Trials of the native CONTENTS, PAQB teachers — Progress of the mission— Papehia visits the island — . Rev. B. Krause resides among the people — Incidents of his land- ing — Illness of M. Krause — State of mission in 1843 — The Eev. _ H. Royle's visit to the island — His labours — His trials and per- secution — State of the people in 1845 — Romantic tale of a hea- then voyager — New chapel opened in 1846 — An account of Rupe, the native pastor, on Atiu — Natives of Atiu employed in aiding the missionary cause — Conclusion. . . . 225 THE ISLAND OF MAUK^}. The island visited by Lord Byron — His lordship's surprise at the civilized state of the people — Testimony of a sailor who lived some time on Mauk^ — Lamentation of the chief — Missionary visit to the island, 1843 — Bangers in lauding — Arrival at the village — Public services — Missionary contributions — Want of school material — Missionary visit to the island in 1845 — Fright of the natives on seeing the new mission- ship — Explanation of the cause — Progress of the mission — Itio, the teacher, and his wife — Itio's letter to the church on Rarotonga — The annual meeting of the schools — United services witt natives of other islands — Conclusion, ...... 235 THE ISLAND OF MITIAEO. The situation and general appearance of the island — Its soil, fruits, and lake — Its first people came from Atiu — The people of Atiu take the gospel to Mitiaro — The overthrow of idolatry on the island — The Tahitian teacher takes up his abode with the peo- ple — Succeeded by a Rarotongan evangelist — Missionary visits to the island in 1843 and in 1845 — The teacher's letter to the missionary, 1849 — The . teacher's wife in trouble respecting the women of Mitiaro smoking tobacco — Her husband's measures to do away with the practice — Teacher's endeavours to advance civilization — People prepare to build a stone chapel — Supersti- tious difficulties — many of the people visit Mauk6 and Aitutaki — Opening of the new chapel — Native contributions to the cause of missions — Conclusion. ..... 244 CONTENTS. XlU THE ISLAND OF MANIIKI. PAGE Situation of Penrhyn islands — Native youth from Taliiti landed on Maniiki — His report of Christianity — Voyages of the islanders in their canoes — Consequent calamities — Nine natives in a canoe picked up at sea by an American captain — These are brought to the Hervey group — Landed on Manual — Incidents while there — Attempts of Aitutaki church to visit them — Theirremoval to Aitutaki — Kind reception — The Maniikians wonder at what they see on Aitutaki — The natives taken to Maniiki in the mission ship — Rarotongan teachers land — Incidents of landing — Success of the teachers — Chieftain pride rebuked^Mission- ary visit in 1852 — Complete copies of the Bible token on shore — Present state of Maniiki. , . , ■ . 256 THE ISLAND OF TONGAEEVA; OE, PENEHYN'S ISLAND. Tongareva a lagoon island — Visit of an American ship in 1841 — Tho wildnesg of the natives — Opinion of a Queen's Commissioner respecting the natives — Murder of a New Zealander — Sub- sequent blight on the cocoa-nut trees of the island — A Cali- fornian vessel wrecked on the island — The crew saved — Two natives of the island brought to Rarotonga — Native teachers return with them to Tongareva — Successes — Novel coincidence about the act of sneezing — Keflections — Conclusion. . . 265 SAVAGE ISLAND; OE, THE ISLAND OF NIUE. Savage Island discovered, 1774 — The heathen character of the people — Missionary visit in 1830— Two natives taken to Raiatea — Returned to instruct their countrymen — Were murdered — In- terview with a Savage islander ou board the mission ship — His SlY CONTENTS. PAOB reports respecting his countrymen — Intercourse with the peoplo in 1840 — A scheme to murder the missionary, 1842 — Native teachers landed in 1846 — The fears and prejudices of the islanders — Their ill treatment of the teacher — Subsequent success — Chapel built — Law and order partially established — Lament- able affray with a ship of war, 1852 — Visit of mission ship, 1854 — Complete overthrow of idolatry — Conclusion . . 270 ILLUSTRATIONS, Mission School-house, Ngatangiia, Rarotonga.- —Frontispiece. PASE Tititaveka Chapel, Rarotonga . 55 Avaraa Chapel, Rarotonga . 73 Interior of Avarua Chapel . 74 Arorangi Chapel, Rarotonga 90 Institution House, Rarotonga . 108 "What! all alone, Tinomana?" ■ . 131 Mangaia. Mission House, Chapel, etc. . . 146 Natives of Mangaia .... 161 Mangaia. A Rain Storm . 192 The Island of Aituta,ki 199 Papehia. Isaia, Papehia's Son . 227 A Coral Reef, Lagoon Island 261 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. f |« f erirjg Islanlr 6rij«p. THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. CHAPTER I. Islands of the Hervey group — Situation, dimensions, physical charac- teristics of Karotonga — Ancestral tribes of the present population — Captain Cooli's discovery of the other islands in the group — Beports of his expedition brought to Rarotonga by natives — The people pray to their gods that the Koolces may be brought to their island — Their prayer answered — Reports reach the island of the English Mission- aries being on Tahiti — A Sydney trading vessel visits the island- Lengthened residence of captain and crew — Numerous evils arising therefrom — The vessel leaves the island — Natives are taken away on board* The Hertet Island group consists of the islands of Earotonga, Mangaia, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mauke, Mitiaro, and Manuai. These are all inhabited, except Manual, and are situated between 157° and 160° west longitude, and 18° 30' and 22° south latitude. Most of these islands were discovered by that untiring navigator, Captain Cook, in the years 1773 and 1777; by him the group was denominated by 2* (17) 18 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. its present name, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of the Navy, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Earotonga is nearly seven hundred miles south-west of Tahiti, is situated 21° 12' south latitude, and 160° west longitude, and is the largest island of the Hervey group. Its outer reef is thirty-five miles in circumference, and its mountains rise four thousand feet above the level of the sea. Its barrier reef is a protective wall of immense, deep, com- pact, block coral, from a quarter of a mile to a half a mile broad; which at low tide is almost bare, but which at high tide has ffhir feet to six feet of water on it. The chasms seaward, in the reef, vary from ten feet to twenty feet in width, and form passages of egress and ingress to canoes and boats; one of these, in the north, is large enough to admit a vessel of forty tons burden, but affords no protection ; and on*ithe south-east side there is another, which forms a miniature harbour, deep and safe, and beautifully adorned by four evergreen lovely islets ; but being windward, it is not available for ships. With these exceptions, there is no anchorage round the island. It is a reef-bound coast, shelving slightly seaward, then sinking perpendicularly thousands of feet towards the foundation of the sea. Against this barrier, the mighty waves of the Pacific, of deepest blue, rise in majestic grandeur to a height of more than twenty feet, then, curling over, break in innumerable myriads of silvery white spray, and dash in subdued, yet graceful beauty on the shore. A long, white, sandy beach, varying from ten to a hun- dred feet wide, forms a natural margin to a comparatively level tract of land, round the whole of the island; and which is richly and constantly covered with fruitful groves of chestnut, cocoa nut, bread fruit, and banana trees. Beyond this, inland, there is for the most part a long, low, fljip of marshy ground, cultivated as taro swamps, at THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 19 wtose base rise hills innumerable j then, deep, wild, ragged fertile valleys intervene between another range of higher hills; then, other valleys; and thence, hill on hill, and moun- tain on mountain, piled on each other in rich variety of size, and form, and verdure. Some of them present a broad, bold, black basaltic face ; others, yielding to the effects of time and weather, reveal a decomposed red sandy soil; while others betray their heterogeneous origin by conglomerated masses of pebble, sand, and fragment rock. For the most part, however, both hills and valleys are covered with deep alluvial earth, yielding an abundance of trees and shrubs, and fruit and fern, which cover the highest mountains, whose lofty summits are seen sixty miles at sea. It is a lovely spot, one of nature's fairest gardens, where, if anywhere on earth, we should have found man an incarnation of love and holiness, and intelligent adoration of the Creator; but where, in reality, we found him, true to his apostasy, ignorant, and vile, and hateful; a worshipper of idols, a slave to' carnality, a personification of the devil. The present inhabitants of the island of Rarotonga are descendants from two ancestral tribes, who, according to traditions, came together to the island about thirty genera- tions ago. Stripping those traditions of what may be deemed fabulous, it appears that one tribe came under the guidance of a renowned Tahitian warrior, called Tangiia ; and that the other tribe was headed by a distinguished chief, called Ka- rika, froni Samoa ; but although the Karika tribe was the last who came direct from Samoa, yet it is evident that the Tangiia party had also come from that westward group some generations before, and had found their way to Tahiti. On reaching RaJotonga they found an aboriginal race on the south side of the island, who were physically and mentally much inferior to themselves. The people of this tribe were few and feeble, and most of them were soon sub- 20 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. duedj while the remnant amalgamated with the new pos- sessors of the soil. The whole of the land was then divided, almost equally, between the Ngati-Tangiia and the Ngati-Karika tribes; each keeping itself distinct and independent from the other. Thus established, they continued on more or less terms of amity, until about a hundred and fifty years ago, there arose a most tyrannical chief over the Tangiia tribe ; so sacred was his body considered, that he rarely ever walked on t^ie ground, but was carried on a man's shoul- ders ; and whenever he appeared in public before his people; he was seated on the naked backs of two or three of his slaves, whose bodies were laid prostrate on the ground for this purpose; all land, and fruit, and fish, and property, and persons in the district, were subjected to the cruel des- potic will of this would-be god. The people bore this oppression long, but finding that it grew beyond all endur- ance, a few petty chiefs, who had well-nigh lost all their rights, united in a revolt, and succeeded in driving the des- pot and his family to the west and south-west parts of the island. Since that time these confederate chiefs have maintained their independence. Hence the third party on the island. 1. Ngati-Karika, who occupy the north dis- tricts, and are governed by the Makea family. 2. Ngati- Tangiia, being a confederate body of independent landholders, who retain the south-east and south portions of the land ; and who have vested magisterial power in the elder branches of the families of Pa, and Kainuka, two mighty warriors of ancient renown. And, 3. Ngati-Tinomana, who are the descendants of Ngati-Tangiia, and retain equal rank with the Makea family; these with their landholders and clang inhabit the west and south-west parts of the island. In his passage from Mangaia to Aitutaki, Captain Cook must have passed very near the island of Earotonga but he THE ISLAND OF RAROXONGA. 21 did not discover it. From time immemorial the people had known much of Tahiti, and Samoa ; but they had no know- ledge whatever of other lands or other people, until about seventy years ago, a canoe having drifted from one of the adjacent islands to Earotonga j in which there were natives who landed and remained some time on shore. These were the first to give reports respecting the white-skin foreign- ers, whom they called Kookes. These visitors had seen Captain Cook; and their descriptions of his vessels, the number of his men, the vast quantity of his property, the years they were away from their own distant land, their food, their guns, and numerous other matters connected with the white men, formed the whole subject of conversa- tion; and the intelligence, with repeated additions and exaggerations, spread from tribe to tribe, until the whole of the people became so excited and interested in the Kookes, that they made special prayer, accompanied with special offerings to the gods, that these wonderful people might be brought to their land. In answer to this prayer, as it would seem, a large Eng- lish ship, soon afterward, appeared off the island ; at its sight the joy of the people exceeded all limits, shouts of praise to Tangaroa were heard from every lip, and multitudes of them hastened to the beach, expecting the white man would land ; hut as the mighty vessel came near to the shore, it hove to ; and their fear became equal to their previous joy. None of the mysterious strangers appeared disposed to come to the land, and for some time, none of the natives would venture off to them. At length one bold-hearted fellow boarded his canoe and paddled along side the vessel; his heart however failed him, and he was about to turn back, but being encouraged by the foreigners he went on board. Kindness overcame his fears, but not his astonishment; with almost breathless surprise he silently viewed the 22 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. ship, the rigging, the people, and other things; and after remaining some time he returned to his canoe, and the ship passed on her voyage. On landing, this hero of the day declared that he had been on board a floating island ; that groves of cocoa nuts and bread fruits and bananas were growing there ; and that they had not heard the half respecting the wisdom, the pro- perty, and the kindness of those wonderful Kookes. Years rolled by and no other ship came to Karotonga ; and no further tidings were gained respecting the white man, until a canoe, driven by a storm from Aana, near Tahiti, reached the island, having on board two or three natives. These not only confirmed former reports respecting the Kookes, but revealed still further wonders; stating that some of these strangers had come from Beritani, and were the servants of Jehovah, their God, and that they were teaching his word to the people ; that Jehovah was the true God, and Jesus Christ, his Son, was the only Saviour. This news alike interested and astonished the islanders; Many looked forward with anxiety, and all with curiosity, to a day, as being certainly near, when these new and great things would reac]^ their own land. But nearly twenty years passed away before another English ship visited their shores, and this was the last before the introduction of Christianity to the island ; and as it is intimately connected with that event, we must give a brief detail of its visifr: — In the year 1820, or thereabout, a merchant ship from one of tfie colonies, sailing between the islands of the Her- vey group, discovered the then unknown island ; and com- ing near shore, a boat's crew of white men was landed on the district belonging to Ngati-Tangiia. Without intending any mischief, the wild, savage, yet delighted natives, rushed to the boat, and made attempts to secure, each one for himself, a.white stranger. This rough THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 23; dealing however alanued the sailors, who fled to their boats, and on being pursued, thev fired their guns over the heads of the natives, and thus escaped. Not willing, however, to leave an island they had been so fortunate to discover, and thinking its resources might add to their merchandise, they sailed round to the north side. There the vessel was brought to an anchor, and the captain and crew were more mildly received by the Ngati-Karika party, than they had been by the Ngati-Tangiia. They landed every day, for nearly a week, and then removed to the little harbour in the east, where they remained three months. The real ob- ject the captain had in view in so long a stay, among such a people, we have never been able to discover, except that he employed his men, some portion of the time, in cutting down large quantities of nono trees, a yellow wood, which might have been mistaken for sandal wood. Be that as it may, the whole history of their stay on the shores of Raro- tonga was a continued series of rapine, cruelty, vice, and bloodshed. So disgraceful was their conduct that the cap- tain did not, either for his own credit or safety sake, publish the longitude and latitude of this lovely island ; of whichj but for his wickedness, he might have received the honour of being the discoverer. Besides the captain, there were nineteen Englishmen, two New Zealanders, and one New Zealand woman. After setting themselves on shore, the whole party gave themselves up to work all manner of wickedness with greediness. Lay- ing aside their own clothing, they adopted the more than half-naked costume of the native ; and fully revelled in all their abominable habits. Taking advantage of their visitors, who in the mean time had become so much like themselves, the Ngati-Tangiia party solicited their aid, with their guns, to make an attack on the tribe at the west of the island To this they consented, and in the affray, three of the natives 24 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. were stot dead on the' spot. This produced much conster- nation in the people, even in the friends of these wicked men, for they knew not how soon these deadly weapons might be employed for their own destruction j they wished them gone. The foreigners, too, who had given themselves so fully to vice, now felt that their deeds brought forth fruits of distress, and pain, and death ; having stolen food, and pigs, and property of the people, having violated the sanctity of the native temples, and at the mouth of the gun robbed the chiefs of their wives, the natives, with one consent, resolved to rid themselves of their oppressors. A con- spiracy was formed, aided by Tumu, a New Zealand man, one of the crew. This was detected by the white men, and they secured him, and in the midst of the people, shot him, as an example. He was buried in Matapare. Things now came to a crisis. The New Zealand native woman was the next to fall ; and subsequently, four of the white men were murdered by the natives. As these troubles increased, pigs, and property, and women were removed from the settle- ments to hidden places in the mountains ; and fearing a secret onslaught on the remainder of the ship's comJ)any, the captain gave orders to prepare the vessel for sea. Glad to aid in this purpose, the people became off their guard, and . allowed the women to come again about the beach ; several of whom were taken by force on board the ship. One of these was a young chieftainess, called Tapa^ru ; as she was being dragged to the boat, her father in deepest distress rushed into the crowd, clasped her in his arms, and weeping on her neck, cried to his gods for help ; and that failing, he exclaimed, "Better that we two die here, than that these savages should take you away with them to sea." But he was compelled to yield his hold ; Tapaeru was taken on board ; and the ship sailed away from the land. Alas I we blush for our fellow-countrymen who thus acted, and THE ISLAND OE RAROTOKaA. 25 wto led the Rarotongans to conclude, that the white man was as far beyond themselves in wickedness, as he was superior in power and in wisdom ; that -Jehovah, the Grod by whom they swore, sanctioned deeds of cruelty and blood- shed that their own gods deprecated ; and to resolve, as far as in them lay, to prevent the white Kookes from again landing on their shores. 3 CHAPTER II. Location of the different tribes in Rarotonga — Native family, house, and furniture — Frequency and cruelty of their wars — Religious character of the people in their heathenisna — Their gods — Their convictions of 1 sin — Their ideas of moral evil — Ancient prophecies concerning the overthrow of heathenism — An example — The necessity of an atone- ment for sin felt by the people — Their efforts to satisfy their convic- tions — Occasional human sacrifices — Missionaries' visit to the oven of atonement — The belief of the people in a future state — Their ideas respecting it — Ihe adaptation of the Gospel to their wants and expe- Bepore recording the circumstances under which Chris- tianity was introduced to Rarotonga, we purpose in the present chapter to give a few brief illustrations of the pre- vious moral, social, and religious character, and habits of its people. We have already noticed the location of the different tribes. In times of peace these tribes inhabited the low, level tracts of lands near the sea-side, but in war they fled to the mountain fastnesses ; they were not, however, mi- gratory, but formed themselves into fixed settlements, of more or less concentration, as circumstances rendered expedient for their safety. In each settlement the ariki (chief) was supreme in power, and despotic in rule. Next in rank to him were ui mataiapo, a class of independent (26) THE ISLAND OP EAROTONQA. 27 landholders, either related to the ariki, or having gained their position by deeds of valour. Under these were ui rangatira, a kind of dependent tenantry, having certain privileges which distinguished them from the mass of common people, who were called e au uniga, and who under the above three ranks, were in the condition of serfs. Caste did not exist as a system, yet each grade had its dis- tinct position in the heathen society of E,arotonga. A family, as the term signifies to an English ear, was not known among this people. The chiefs, mataiapos, and ran- gatiras, were wont to have from three to ten wives each, according to rank, or property, or renown. Their habita- tions were long, narrow, low, reed huts, the ground being covered with dried grass, and the whole of the furniture consisting only of sleeping mat, native bark cloth, cloth- making block and mallet, stools, and bowls. Licentiousness, deceit, and theft prevailed to a fearful extent; and, so gen- eral and constant were the enmity and jealousy of one tribe toward another, that the majority of the people were con- fined to the range of district where they were born, only hearing vague reports, but knowing little definitely, respect- ing the tribes beyond them. War, either offensive or defensive, was their continual employment and delight. A state of peace was rarely ever known to continue long between the tribes. Frequent quar- rels arose, sometimes by the people of one tribe trespassing the boundary line of their neighbour's land ; at others, by the absconding pf wives from their husbands ; sometimes they were occasioned by acts of plunder on the cocoa nut and bread fruit, and taro plantations ; and at others, by re- venge of former wrongs. These quarrels invariably led to fighting, in which the warriors of each tribe engaged with the utmost desperateness and cruelty. The first victims se- cured in war were presented to the gods, and the head of 28 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. each was taken in savage triumph, while yet reeking m its blood, to the chief of the tribe, and the bodies of such were eaten in their cannibal feasts. Cannibalism prevailed, but not to so fearful extent as among the tribes of Western Polynesia, and infanticide was committed on a large scale, but was chiefly confined to female children, when two or thrile were already in a family. Thus, without entering into detail on these subjects, which is not the design of this work, we see that the inhabitants of this lovely garden-island of the sea, were sunk in an abject state of naked, barbarous, savage heathenism. Gross darkness covered the people, and their dwelling-place was full of cruelty and abomination. But, although such was the moral and social degradation of the inhabitants of Rarotonga, yet it must be remembered that they were, nevertheless, a religious people. They be^ lieved in the existence of gods; they had convictions of sinj they felt the need of an atonement; and they had a firm hope in a future state, after the death of the body. They believed in the existence of gods. We have never found a heathen people in the islands of the South Sea, who denied the existence of a God. It appears to us, that Satan has never tempted these degenerate tribes to deny the existence of a God, but, in his great masterpiece of sin and iniquity, he has given them deities innumerable. The Karotongans had gods of wood, anji of stone, and of cloth, and of feathers. After consecration, these images or idols were supposed to be uruia, or possessed by the vaerua, spirit of some individual personage, or power, and was henceforth worshipped with all sincerity. There was a god who presided over the birth of children, another who super- intended man's journey by land, another who had especial charge of the sea, another who gave fertility to the soil, others vrhose special aid was solicited in war, and others THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 29 who had the decision of man's destinies at death. Over all, there was one great Deity, the Creator of all things, and the preserver of all things, called Tangaroa, a god alike known and honoured by the natives in all the islands, inclusive of New Zealand in the south to the Sandwich Islands in the north, and from Tahiti in the east to Samoa in the west. The people of Rarotonga, in their heathen state, had also conviction of sin. Naked, wild savages as they were, they needed not a written revelation to inform them that they were not morally what they ought to be. They were conscious of certain obligations of right and duty, which they aught to have discharged to the gods and to their fellow-men, but which they had not discharged. They felt they had done things which they ought not to have done, and left undone things which they ought to have done. This is sin ; and these heathens in this sense felt that they were sinners. They held that it was sin to profane the names, the representations, the word, and the habitations of the gods. They knew it was wrong to steal, to commit lewdness, to murder : they felt that these and other wicked deeds. Were followed by punishment here, and that they would be subjected to penalties hereafter. They had, as we are taught by Jehovah to expect, more or less developed, in every heathen people, a " law written in their hearts," their consciences also either condemning or commending every action of their lives. Besides this, there were a few men in each generation raised up publicly to reprove the abounding iniquity of the times, and who exhorted their fellow-countrymen to live orderly, honestly, and peaceably; to oSevjmre (prayer) and akapaapaa (praise) to the gods, and to expect a time to come, when good should prevail over the evil, and happineis abound over the misery by which they, were then sur- 3* 30 GEMS TEOM THE CORAL ISLANDS. rounded. Among tke sajdngs of thfise sages, one of many is often referred to by the people as haying been now fulfilled. It is as follows : — Takaiakai marei, e, E aku au potiki e ! Aua e oro pu i te kino, e, E, i te tamaki, e mate ei e Takatakal marei e, E aka au potiki e ! Te vai ra tetai inapotea e ! Kia ora, e aku potiki e ! Kiu:e teia e mou. A heathen father is here represented as exhorting the young men, growing up around him, not to ruin themselves in acts of folly and in war. It may be translated thus : — sons beloved ! Xread gently in your course. Bun not rashly to do evil. Or into deadly war. sons beloved ! . Tread gently in yonr conrse. For seasons bright. Of shining light. As full moon night. Are yet to be seen on earth. And may yon live ! My sons beloved^ For the present is not lasting. Kepeating these lines, at a missionary meeting, a year or two ago, an old native, who for many years had been a con- sistent member of the church, said, " Thus did my father exhort me, and blessed, indeed, are my eyes, for now I see these ' seasons bright, of shining light,' of which he spaie. Jesus is that light, and we rejoice in him." But without enlarging at present on the happy change now come over the people, as contrasted with the reign of THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 31 darkness, under which they had these convictions of sin, we must notice the fact that, urged by fears and anxieties arising out of these convictions, they were led to devise various schemes of atonement for sin. They felt the need of an atonement. They were not those convietionless, fearless, thoughtless kind of beings which some persons suppose heathens to be. They had painful anxieties and dreadful apprehensions. In approaching their gods, they felt that it was necessary to perform some service, or to present some sacrifice, in order to expiate con- tracted guilt, and to secure a desired blessing. " Mow shall I come before the gods ?" was the heartful cry of every in- dividual who visited the heathen altar of sacrifice. All beasts and fowls, all fruits and flowers, all birds and fish, all precious ores and precious stones — ^yea, all that a man had would he give, if so be he might thereby propitiate the gods, and gain peace to his troubled heart ; and, often feeling that his all was too poor and inefficient to secure that which he needed, the distressed heathen, in the depth of his extrem- ity, had recourse to human sacrifices, and not unfrequently olfered the fruit of his body for the sins of his soul. Such was the condition of the Earotongans prior to the introduc- tion of the gospel. They had sacrifices of pigs, and fish, and food, and also human sacrifices. They had, what might be denominated, acts of national atonements, and of family atonement, and of individual atonement for sin. On the prevalence of any great calamity in the island, such as famine, sickness., war, or death, the first thought of the people was, that some ofience had been given to the gods — that they were angry. In order to avert this anger, and to gain a removal of the calamity, sacrifices— generally on such occasions human sacrifices — were resorted to. Two or three natives, the most wicked of their own, or of other tribes, were secured- Their arms and legs being bound 32 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. with green thongs, they were dragged to the great altar of - sacrifice, on which they were presented alive to the gods, the priest at the same time making confession of sin, and suppli- cating a removal of the calamity. This ceremony heing over, the living bodies of the victims were then removed and placed on an oven of red-hot stones, sometimes called te mnu Jdmi ora, or, " seeking salvation oven," and at others, te umu tarangaara, or the "oven of atonement." Three or four years ago, in company with a few old men, who had spent the first years of their manhood in heathen life, I visited this great oven of national sacrifice. The paths leading to it had long since grown over with brushwood, which we had to cut down as we advanced. On reaching the spot, I found an area of comparatively clear ground about a hundred feet in circumference, surrounded by high trees and dense bush. In the centre, was a pit five feet deep and twelve feet wide. This pit was wont to be filled with firewood, on the top of which were piled large basaltic stones. These were heated to a red-hot heat, and as the wood consumed, they sank to a level with the ground. This was the oven ; on it the living human sacrifices were placed, and burnt to death, as an atonement for the sins of the people. As we gazed on this scene, and remembered the generations of bygone days, our hearts were filled with emo- tions of mournful interest; and, singing a hymn, expressive of sympathy with the heathen yet in darkness, we retired, praising God that the knowledge of the true atonement for sin had been brought to the inhabitants of Rarotonga, not a few of whom had proved its efficacy, and rejoiced in its grace. From what has been said, it will be seen that, in trans- lating the Scriptures into the language of this people, and in expounding to them the gospel of salvation by Jesus Christ, we have no need to introduce foreign words to THE ISLAND OF EAROTONQA. 33 represent ideas of God, and sin, and atonement, and sal- vation ; but that we adopt their own words, which express sentiments and feelings in accordance with the doctrines of Christianity, and which are, in a measure, understood and appreciated by those whom we seek to instruct and to In closing these notices, we can only further add that the natives of Rarotonga, in their heathen state, believed in future existence after the death of the body. This will have been inferred from what has already been said ; their con- victions, fears, and sacrijSces could have no other interpret- ation, and consequently we find that this doctrine formed a part of their faith. It was usual to speak of persons dead as being adeep, as having fallen, as gone away, and as having sailed their last voyage. These terms were never employed to denote the death of beasts, or birds, or fish ; concerning them the word mate, dead, was invariably and exclusively tised. With most of the tribes of East and West Polynesia, the Rarotongans believed that when the body died, the vaerwa, or soul, escaped towards the setting of the sun, to a region called Avaiki; that the favourites of the gods ■were admitted into their presence, where, with chiefs and warriors, they revelled in every excess of sensual gratification, while those excluded from this place went to the po, a region of darkness, horror, and distress. Much more might be said on these important subjects, both by way of fact and illustration, but enough has been advanced to answer our present purpose. These heathen tribes were, in their heathenism, a religious people. They had ideas concerning Grod, and right and wrong, their con- victions of sin were pungent, and led to a practical concern about something which they called salvation. But, alas, poor distressed creatures ! they were there left to grope in the dark. Neither the beautiful light of nature, nor the 34 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. convincing light of reason, was sufficient to lead them to peace, purity, and joy. Nature and reason, indeed, did enlighten, but it was only to convince and to condemn. Hence the wisdom and the love of Jehovah in Christ, and his mission: — "I give thee a Light to lighten the Gen- tiles, that -thou mayest be my salvation to the ends of the earth." The whole history of Christianity in the world proves its divine, perfect, and exclusive adaptation to the end proposed. Its facts, and no less the facts of man's religious condition in the heathen world, make it an imperative duty, on Christians, to preach the gospel to every creature. These facts form the basis on which is built the glorious and benevolent superstructure of Chris- tian missions, and are our apology, to unbelieving and selfish men, for the talent, and the time, and the wealth expended in attempts to reach the necessities of a heathen world. CHAPTER III. The nativea taken away from the island are left at Aitutati — They hear of Christianity there — Information respecting the island conveyed to the missionaries — Teachers landed on the island in 1823 — Ta- paeru's reception by her countrymen — Heathen merry-making on account of her return — Night of danger to the teachers on shore- Missionaries resolve to leave the people without a teacher — Papehia's determination to remain as teacher — Tapaeru's influence for his safety — Surprise of the people at the new things he made known to them — His preaching to the natives in. a grove of cocoa-nut trees — Their questions respecting God — -They think his book to be his god — ^Visit of Messrs. Tyerman and Bennett to the island — Encourag- ing advance of the mission. At the close of the first chapter we had occasion to mourn over the wickedness and cruelty of the white man in his first intercourse with the natives of Earotonga ; we have now to see how Grod, in his providence, restrains the wickedness of the wicked, and overturns their deep-laid evil schemes, to their own confusion, and to his own glory_ As Kurunaki sailed away in his ship from the shores of Earotonga, he no doubt regretted the loss of four of his crew, but must have rejoiced that he had escaped with his own life, and in having gained what he would call a triumph over the savage islanders.. What purposes filled his mind in reference to Tapa^ru and her captive companions, whom he had on board, we know not, but after two day's sail the (35) 36 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ship made the Island of Aitutaki, situated about a hundred and fifty miles north of Karotonga; and having had inter- course with the people, he was induced to put the Haroton- gan natives on shore there. This act led to the introduction of the gospel to Karotonga. Thfi man thought not so ; but God was there, going before his servants, a breaker-up of the way, securing means for their access to a heathen people then unknown to the world. In 1821, the Rev. J. "Williams, on his voyage to New South Wales, succeeded in locating native teachers on the island of Aitutaki. He had previously heard in the legend- ary tales of the Tahitians, of Rarotoa, and now the fact of its existence was confirmed by accounts which he gained from the Aitutakians, but which they called Rarotonga. In their first letters to Mr. Williams, the native teachers on Aitutaki gave more information respecting Rarotonga, stating, with certainty, that they knew its situation, and moreover mentioning that a number of Rarotongan natives were on Aitutaki, " who had been brought there in a white man's large ship ; " that these natives had renounced hea- thenism, had put themselves under Christian instruction, and that they were desirous to return to their own land, in order to introduce the Christian teacher to their people. This was good news to the missionary brethren on the eastern islands; it was considered a sufficient call for further effort; and after conference and prayer, Messrs. Williams and Bourne were appointed to visit Aitutaki, and thence to seek the introduction of teachers to Rarotonga. This voyage was taken in 1823. The ardent, toiling zeal of the missionaries was alike rewarded and strengthened on their reaching Aitutaki, in witnessing gospel successes there; and having gained all possible information about Rarotonga, they determined to set out without delay for its discovery. The people of Aitutaki did all they could to dissuade them THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 37 from their purpose, saying that the people of Karotonga ■were very numerous, and that they were known to be savage cannibals. But this moved them not, and having received the exiled natives on board, in company with a body of teachers, they set sail. The first and second days at sea were spent pleasantly and profitably in listening to details from the natives about the various islands of the group, but from the third to the sixth days the voyagers were in tedious and anxious sus- pense, being baffled in their attempts to discover the de- sired island. Altering their course, the vessel then made a circuit of the known islands of the group, Mangaia, Atiu, and Mitiaro. At each of these islands additional informa- tion was gained respecting Karotonga, which encouraged another attempt to find it. Again they set sail, and after many days of further anxiety, just at the moment when the ship's stores were nearly exhausted, and when hope and patience had well nigh yielded to despair, the soul-inspiring shout of "Land 0! Land !" was heard from the looker- out at the masthead ; and in a few hours afterwards, the lovely island lay unveiled before the enterprising men of God. As the ship drew near to the shore, an immense number of natives were seen in a state of great excitement. Their surprise was great indeed when they saw a native canoe laden with their own people coming from the ship; but their excitement exceeded all bounds when they were told that Tapaeru and hgr party, who had been taken away in Kurunaki's ship, had returned, and that they had brought with them e pulee orometua to instruct the people about Jehovah, and his Son, Jesus Christ. Under other circum- stances the announcement of the arrival of the puke oro- metua would have been the great matter of interest, but now the fact of Tapaeru's return was predominant in heart 38 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. and utterance. The chief ordered a special escort to go to the ship, headed by his eldest son, to convey her to the shore. On landing she fell at the feet of her uncle, who was seated in heathen state under the shade of a wide-spread temanu tree. Reverential and affectionate obeisance was paid to him, and then in a most affecting manner she intro- duced to him Papehia, Vahineino, and the other Christian teachers. The missionaries did not venture on shore. It was not prudent so to do, for apart from the naturally savage character of the people, they still remembered, with emo- tions of revenge, Kurunaki's ship, and were jealous of another white man landing in their midst. Whilst the ship lay off and on the island, and the missionaries were on board in anxious and prayerful suspense, the natives were revelling on shore; the finest fed hogs were slaughtered, the best fruits of the plantations were gathered, and as the shadows of evening came on, groups of savage priests and warriors came from all parts of the island, and regaled themselves in a sumptuous feast. As night advanced, song, and dance, and hava, inflamed the worst passions of the savages, and they talked of murdering the teachers, and of placing their wives in the seraglio of the chiefs. Preparations were even made to perpetrate their vile deed, and it only remained for the chief to give his nod of assent, and the devoted teachera would have been sacrificed; but Tapaeru, faithful to her promise, was their protectress; she argued, and wept, and literally fought for their preservation. Spared through the night, at early dawn the following morning the teachers returned to the ship. Delighted to see them alive, the first inquiry of the anxious missionaries was, " Can you remain on shore ?" " Alas !" replied the teachers, " these people are the fiercest savages we have ever known. The Tahitians were bad, but these are much worse." Pointing to the bruises on their bodies, and exhib- THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 39 iting their torn garments, they continued, " We have spent a fearful night ; but for Tapa^ru we should not have been alive this morning j" and the general impression was, that none could venture to live on shore. It was felt to be a trying and a responsible hour ; but just at the moment when the missionaries had decided that the island must be left unoccupied, Papehia, a young native Christian, came forward, and, " instead of uniting with us," says Mr. Williams, " in our useless regrets, resolved to he left to attempt the work." " Whether the savages spare me, or kill me," said this intrepid preacher, " I will land among them." Ko Jehova toku tiaki. Jehovah is my Shepherd. Tei roto au i tona rima. I am in his hand ;" and leaving his all behind him, simply clothing himself' in a shirt, and a few yards of calico as a wrapper, and tying in a handkerchief a book containing portions of the Holy Scrip- tures, printed in the Tahitian language, he was prepared for his work. On the reef there stood a number of tall, ath- letic warriors; they looked in proud anger and disdain on the servant of Jesus as he came near the shore, and with their spears poised had a will to hurl them at him ; but they were restrained, and Papehia landed, alone in the midst of the heathen population of Rarotonga, the first Christian teacher, to instruct them in the knowledge of the true God, and of salvation by Jesus, his Son. Of the few natives who had come with the teacher from Aitutaki, only two or three could be depended on as being faithfully attached either to himself or to his cause ; among these, Tapaeru was the most conspicuous, who already gave evidence that she had not received the mercy of God in pro- fession only but in power. Under her influence, the chief promised his protection to her friend, but laughed at his at- tempting to overthrow the gods of Rarotonga. From the first day of his landing Papehia gave himself 40 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. solely to tis work; every act of his daily life stood out in bold contrast with the deeds of the people, and was a lesson of instruction concerning God and the doctrines of his word. Whether at home or abroad, whether at meals or at work, he was at all times surrounded by a number of natives, curious to see and hear some new thing. As his actions and words were reported from clan to clan, crowds of people came from all parts of the island, to whom he gave a simple exposition of the great design of the Evan- gelia a Jesu, and narrated to each party details respecting the overthrow of heathenism and idolatry in the Tahitian islands. That there was no more war among the tribes of those lands was as mysterious and marvellous as that the former gods were no more; and, without understanding anything of the genius and ultimate design of the gospel, the masses of these barbarous people knew and appreciated the advantages of peace, and were willing to wish success to the tuatua tu he,, the strange word that could secure its establishment. Hence were kept in abeyance, for a time, those feelings of hatred and opposition which a more intimate acquaintance with the purity of the gospel ex- cited, and which threatened, subsequently, to destroy the mission. At this time, however, novelty and excitement brought the people together in such crowds as to create the necessity for more formal public worship. A large and beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees was selected for the temple, and there, in the midst of the wild multitude, the man of God day by day expounded the mystery of the words of his book. At first scarcely anything excited more ridicule than his prayers ; to how iefore nothing, and to speak to a deity ' not visible, was in their estimation the climax of folly. " Does not your God visit the earth?" inquired some of the people. " He is everywhere present," replied the teacher, THE ISLAND OP RAROTONQA. 41 " presiding over and blessing all tLe ■works whicli ie iath made." "Ask him to come down and show himself," was then demanded. " He is a Spirit, and a spirit only," was the answer. " What ! a god without a body I" was the jeering retort. "Who will believe that?" The teacher was unable to go beyond his first replies; and if he had had the ability, the persons taught had no power to receive it. But, adapted to his work, Papehia turned the discourse to something practical. " You and your fath- era," he said, "believe that Tangaroa, and Kongo, and Oro, are great gods of power, and that to injure their tlM would be followed by death. Now, in the Tahitian islands, these gods have been destroyed ; they are no gods, they are a lie. Jehovah is the true Grod. He is a Spirit, and can- not be seen." At these remarks the excited natives con- cluded that the teacher was not only nevena, a fool, but that he was a tangata pikileaa, a liar. " Why does he talk thus," said they, " does he think that we are matapo, blind ? He says that his God cannot be seen, and yet look at him, he carries his God about with him. See, how he talks to it, and what his God says to him he tells us. Wherever he goes he carries it, when he sleeps he has it near him — that is his God." It was his book to which they referred. They for some time sincerely believed his book was his god, as much as Tangaroa was theirs. The next important movement which engaged Papehia's attention was the establishment of a daily school. Having a few books in the Tahitian language, he began to teach the young people the alphabet, and many of the old folks learnt portipns of Scripture by memory. By these and other methods knowledge increased, and with it grew a distaste for the follies of heathenism and idolatry; and it became evident, on this account, as well as from the determined opposition of the priesthood, that Papehia needed assist- i* 42 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ance. Up to this time he had been the only teacher on the island, but just now he was joined by another from Tahiti, and the pioneering work of the mission advanced most rapidly. There were but few real converts, yet so mighty had been the teaching of the gospel in. this short time, that the foundations of idolatry, as a system, were evidently beino- broken up. The priests were the most inveterate in their opposition to Christian teaching ; yet strange it was, that one of the priests was the first man on the island who publicly gave up his idol, at the same time placing his son under the care and instruction of the teachers ; and within ten days after the destruction of his idol, fourteen others were consumed in the flames. The first chief who publicly gave up his idols was Tino- mana. One day after a final conversation with Papehia on the subject, he said to one of his attendants; "Take a torch, and set fire to the vaerua Jcino and his temple. "Do it not," commanded his priests, " he is mad." Still Tino- mana persisted, against the expostulations of the people. He said, " My heart has taken hold of the word of Jeho- vah ;" and truly nothing but this could have induced him to burn the gods that his fathers held so sacred, and wor- shipped so devotedly, finm time immemorial. Thus the work of destroying idols began on Rarotonga, and ceased not until, within the short space of a few months, a great number of the people from each district had nomi- nally renounced heathenism, and placed themselves under Christian instruction. Partly to secure this object, and partly to strengthen themselves against a threatened attack from the remaining portion of the heathen population, the Christian party formed an alliance, and lived together in one district; and not fifteen months after the landing of Pape- hia, the London Missionary Society's deputation, Messrs. Tyerman and Bennett, called at the island, and found the THE ISLAND OP EAROTONaA. 43 people erecting a chapel 300 feet long ! This building was finished ; a pulpit was placed at the extreme of either end, from which each teacher simultaneously, and without an- noyance, addressed near fifteen hundred naked, wild savages, whose wildness, however, was marvellously kept under restraint, by a general conviction that Christianity was truth, and by means of the novelty and excitement its in- troduction to the island had occasioned. Mr. Bourne, of the Tahitian mission, who, it will be re- membered, was with Mr. Williams when Papehia was landed, visited the island about twelve months after Messrs. Tyerman and Bennett; he preached in the large chapel, saw the change that had been efiected, and wished that his brother Williams had been with him to share his joy. How wonderful ! A nation changed in a day ! Two native teach- ers, themselves born heathens, and trained in idolatry, in an island nearly seYen hundred miles away, land on Rarotonga, and in less than two years and a half were the sole instruments in bringing about the revolution we have thus far witnessed in the character, habits, and worcihip of its heathen population. CHAPTER IV European missionaTy resides on the island, 1327 — Separation of the tribes to their own districts — Adoption of a code of civil law — Attention of the people to plantin); and house building — Building of chapel at Ngatangiia — The opening service — Arrival of Rev. A. Buzacott in - 1 828 — A painful reaction on past successes — Moral defection m a native teacher — Opposition of heathen priesthood — Houses of the Christian party and chapels destroyed by fire — Mission house in danger — Destitution of necessary supplies — Heavy floods — Destruc- tion of missionary's house — Gteneral and fatal sickness — Painful and joyful deaths. The 6tli of May, 1827, was a day of peculiar joy to the enterprising missiooaiy Williams. For the first time, he then landed on the shores of Karotonga. Each past hurried visit to the island had impressed him with the importance of making it a principal mission station ; and to further this object, he had now come to reside awhile with the people, in order to consolidate and direct their transitive state. He had the happiness also to be accompanied by the Rev. C. Pitman, who had been appointed to take up a permanent abode on the island. Who can describe the heart experience of these two devoted men, as on that day they witnessed the remarkable advance already made against former hea- thenism, and more especially in the enthusiastic desire, manifested by a majority of the population, to be further (44) THE ISLAND OF UAROTONGA. 45 instructed in tlie word of God. Williams remembered his days of labour, and his nights of anxiety when, four years before, he put Papehia on shore; and now he was permitted to reap the first fruits of an abundant and glorious harvest. Pitman was young and devoted, discriminating and cau tious; and whilst he rejoiced that the foundations of Christianity had been laid, yet he felt that a great and responsible work demanded the best energies of himself and colleagues, to build up the desired superstructure of an enlightened, pure, and active Christian people. Hence, on the day of his landing, he exclaimed in the language of united praise and prayer : " This people, so recently pagan, have renounced idolatry, and professedly are Christians. The large chapel is crowded with them, and they are preached to by a native teacher. thou great Head of thy church, now begin and carry on thy regenerating and sanctifying work in their hearts." Much pioneering work had been done, which could not have been donff by missionaries : but now the people were prepared, and requii-ed instruction and discipline,- which native teachers at that period were not able to give ; and as we proceed in this narrative, we shall have abundant reason to rejoice, that European missionaries were placed on the island just at a time to take advantage of the previous in- valuable labours of the teachers. We have already noticed, that the natives who renounced idolatry had, for the purposes of instruction and safety, assembled themselves together on one district of the island. This plan was wise at the time, and not without its beneficial effects ; but as the people belonged to different tribes, it was soon found not only to be inconvenient, but to be attended with positive evils; and soon after the landing of Williams and Pitman, meetings were held with the people to discuss the propriety of forming two distinct and independent 46 GEMS PROM THE COKAL ISLANDS. Stations. This was advised by tte missionaries, and most of the natives wished it, but peculiar difficulties arising out of their family and land relations, increased by their pride, envy, and jealousy, for some time prevented its accomplishment. These, however, were at length overcome, and the Tangiia party took up their residence in their own disteict, Ngatangiia; and the Karika tribe, together with TiQomana and his party, settled at Avarua; each division of people numbered between three thousand and four thou- sand, and their separate location was an important epoch in the history of the island. It was the commencement of order, which introduced a state of civil and social life of which the natives had previously been ignorant. In their heathen state every form of civil and social crime was rampant ; theft, adultery, and murder were acts of every-day occurrence; and although punishment, it is true, was sometimes inflicted on offenders, yet it was at the will of the chief, who was alike cruel, unjust, and despotic ; to whose will were subjected life and property, and who was himself often the greatest criminal in the community. In the new state of things, however, now introduced, the neces- sity of a righteous code of common law was soon felt ; and circumstances led to its establishment. Time after time, as offences occurred, both people and chiefs consented to the enforcement of such laws as were adapted to meet these offences; until the simple code became sufficiently complete to meet the existing condition of society. In each case the law was discussed, and agreed to in a popular assembly of ui ariki, and ui mataiapo, and ui rangatira, by whose authority it was written, and afterwards signed by the chief3 of the different districts. A staff of tried men were selected as a police force, trial by jury was adopted, and the office of chief magistrate was vested in an individual of known char- acter and ability, at each settlement. THE ISLAND OF RAEOTONGA. 47 Hoping that the plunder and desolation occasioned by war had ceased, the people were encouraged at this period of the mission to attend to their plantations with greater care and constancy than they had hitherto done ; and the industrial arts of civilized life were also introduced to them as fair as the limited resources of the missionaries allowed. Instead of the low unhealthy huts in which the natives had formerly lived, they were instructed and assisted to build neat comfort- able lime and wattle cottages;' and in this, and other works connected with civilization, the carpenter's saw, and plane, and mallet; the smith's forge, and bellows, and anvil; and the builder's scaiFold, and rule, and line, and square, were in daily use; and every achievement completed by these mighty instruments was its own reward, and gave a healthy impetus to the newly awakened energies of the semi-heathen people. The large chapel, three hundred feet long, built by the native teachers, was a novel and interesting building ; but it was also rude, inconvenient, and unsubstantial. The time had now come when something better should be intro- duced, and the people of Ngatangiia began in good earnest to accomplish the work; tons of coral lime were burnt, immense trees were felled, and sawn, and otherwise prepared for the building; a suitable site was cleared, and in two months from the time of commencement, the first chapel, worthy the name, was finished. It was one hundred and fifty feet long, and fifty-six feet wide. Its thatched roof was sup- ported on either side by seven iron-wood pillars twenty-five feet high. There were ten doors, three at each side and two at each end, and twenty windows of large Venetian blinds placed at proportionate distances round the whole of the building. Not being ceiled, the roof was exposed ; and ft the request of the people, some of their former av, tiki, or carved gods, were stripped of their sacred bark cloth, and 48 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. hung by their necks at the rafters, as an emblem of their degradation and death. On the occasion of its being opened for public worship, Mr. "Williams preached an appropriate sermon from 2 Chron. vii. 14 — 16 : " I will forgive their sin, and will heal their land. Mine eyes shall be open, and mine ears attent unto the prayer that is made in this place, and«mine heart shall be there perpetually." This was a sacred season of holy joy both to the mission- ary, and teachers, and people. It would be gratifying to linger here, and to give further and more minute details of the practical development of the new life of the people at this stage of the mission ; but this we must not attempt. Things having been thus far arranged, Mr. Williams removed to the Avarua station; leaving Mr. Pitman to carry on the work at Ngatangiia, who preached his first ser- mon to the people in the month of August, 1827. Anxious to extend his missionary enterprises amongst the heathen natives on islands further west, Mr. Williams was encouraged in his purpose by the appointment of the Kev. A. Buzacott to the Earotonga mission ; who landed on the island February 4th, 1828. The people of Avarua would willingly have detained Mr. Williams as their missionary, but finding that he had other work to do, they gave a hearty welcome to Mr. Buzacott; and, quick to perceive his numerous and peculiar qualifications, and adaptation, they exclaimed, " This is the man for us ! Koia ia, Truly, this is the man for us !" He proved himself worthy of their highest confidence and praise. In teaching, and preaching, and labours abundant, he and his devoted, yet more weakly and often-afflicted colleague, Mr. Pitman, were, in the short space of seven years after the introduction of the gospel, permitted to see two large Christian settlements, which for organization, attendance on instruction, and general results of civilization, presented a fruit of Christ's gospel as com- THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. ' 49 .^jlete and as glorious as any gained in its previous conquests over the heathen world. We have hitherto witnessed the advance of Christianity on this island under circumstances favourahle to its pro- gress; but we must now record some of those untoward events, and those opposijjg powers, which are usually ex- perienced by it soon after the announcement of its triumphs. A reaction, severe and painful, yet natural and salutary, now set in upon the professedly Christian stations. The first blighting influence occurred in the moral defection of one of the native teachers, not Papehia, but his early com- panion. He was a man of strong passions, also of superior mental and physical power; and he succeeded in gaining a dominant position among a party of this subdued and hesi- tating people; in this position his grace failed him, and he fell. His fall was an arrow in the hearts of the faithful few, a stone of stumbling to many of the formal professors, an offence and a reproach from the heathen ■ party ; and a sig- nal triumph of the spiritual powers and principalities in high places. Encouraged by this circumstance, and the subsequent declension of many occasioned by it, the revengeful priest- hood sought opportunity, even now, to crush Christianity. Seventy of them vowed a vow over their sacred fires, and in the name of the neglected gods, to die rather than sub- mit to the gospel of Christ. These were aided and sustained by some of the greatest mataiapo of the land, who did all they could to involve the two settlements in war. This, however, failing of success, they had recourse to setting fire to the houses of the Christian party. At Ngatangiia, one night soon after the missionary had retired to rest, the war whoop was heard from a hundred voices in the settlement, and many houses near his own were seen in flames. Anxious to save the chapel from de- 5 50 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Btruetion, lie ventured out into the midst of the mixed crowd of friends and enemies ; but alas ! his efforts were unavailing, and that night the beautiful house of prayer, to which we have already referred, was consumed by the flames to the ground. At Avarua the same ruthless work of destruction was carr^p d on. Night after night, house after house was burnt to the ground ; until things had advanced so far, that it ap- peared only to require the destruction of the missionary's house in order to secure the complete overthrow of the mis- sion. The little band of Christians arranged themselves into classes of fifteen to twenty individuals nightly, to guard the mission house ; these had wooden gongs which they struck continually, making a noise sufficiently loud to be heard a mile distant ; so long as these gongs were being beaten, and their harsh, discordant, deafening sounds kept up, so long could the mission family sleep, for that was a sign of safety; but as soon as the gongs ceased, and were quiet, the missionary was awakened through fear, lest the • watch should be asleep ; and not knowing the moment his house might be in flames, and he, wife, and children, buried in its ruins. This was a time of trial. Neither of the mis- sionaries was able to render assistance to the other. Each was surrounded by the same circumstances of distress, and stood in jeopardy of his life every hour. Their situation was further rendered more trying, at this period, from the fact that no ship had visited them for eighteen months; hence they were left without supplies of clothes, and flour, and other things necessary to their continued existence. There was no "Children of England Mission Ship" then; and the little known of the island was so unfavourable to mer- chant ships going there, that captains were not willing to take supplies, unless their exorbitant demands were met. But one morning, after waiting twelve months in anxious THE ISLAND 01' EAROTONGA. 51 suspense, a slip was seen off the island, as if coming from Tahiti. The missionaries were sure it was a vessel of relief, but alas ! for them, it was a stranger, a merchantman, direct from England, too, but not having a particle of supply to aid the mission in its circumstances of distress and want. These disastrous events of defection and war, and fire and famine, had scarcely subsided, before another calamity occurred which occasioned much distress, alleviated only by the thought that it came direct from the hand of Grod. Heavy and long-continued rains caused the whole of the badly-drained low lands to be flooded, which induced much dysentery, together with fever and ague, amongst the peo- ple. The members of the mission families were also laid low by the disease, and both Messrs. Pitman and Buzacott were brought near to death. Mr. Buzacott's house had been built on low ground, and one night, after he had retired to rest, a rush of water came with great force from the mountains ; the banks of the river overflowed, plantations were destroyed, and the missionary . house became knee deep in water, before the calamity was known. The house being a wooden frame was in danger of being swept away by the flood ; and it was with difiioulty that the family escaped. In a state of exhaustion and fright, Mrs. Buzacott was carried by a native to a hut some dis- tance inland ; and was laid aside by a sickness of three months' duration from the time of the catastrophe. Distressing, however, as these personal calamities were, the devoted missionaries and their wives were sustained j gaining daily strength equal to daily trial and duty, they kept a constant watch over the best interests of the peo- ple ; and although the majority had hitherto proved them- selves unworthy of their altered position, yet it was a cause of deep sorrow to see them suffer and die. During the pre- valence of the disease, which assumed the form of a fearful 52 GEMS PEOM THE CORAL ISLANDS. epidemic, almost eveiy house on the island was a scene of desolation and woe ; and so great were its ravages, at one time, that the known deaths numbered one hundred a day. In this aflliction most of the ringleaders of the late dis- turbances were cut off, many of whom died in agony of de- spair, saying that they were sure of eternal destruction. Their statements, at death, respecting themselves, their deeds and their intentions, had their lives been spared, were awful in the extreme, and made a deep impression on the hearts of those who survived them. In the case of others it was greatly affecting to witness a fixed Pharisaical self-complacency, because they had given Tip heathen practices, and had been regular in the duties of external Christian profession. There were, however, a few who knew in whom they had believed. Their minds were enlightened, their hearts were renewed, and their previous life had shown that they were ripe for heaven ; as a kind of first-fruits of those who should be saved from amongst the tribes of Barotonga. When spoken to of the ability and willingness of Jesus to save sinners, one Christian man replied, that he felt it was only through Jesus that he could be saved, that he felt his sinfulness, and that his heart was continually grasping after the word of God. Another, who had been one of the most active, consistent Christian women of the community, said, when reference was made to her consistent deportment, " that it was like her poor, worthless, helpless, dying body, of no avail for her salva- tion, but that Jesus was all her salvation." These evi- dences were cheering to the heart of the missionaries, and encouraged them to be instant in season and out of season in proclaiming the words of eternal life ; and they needed these consolations the more, as they saw several of the few excellent young men, who had bid fair soon to become of great assistance to the mission, laid low among the dying. THE ISLAND OF RAROTONQA. 53 Many of these themselves felt, as was expressed by one, " that it was a great struggle to give up the prospect of a useful life in aiding forth the cause of the gospel, which he was quite sure would advance on the island;" but giving up his soul to Jesus, he exclaimed, "It is all right. I must die. The first surge of death has passed over me, I have now to pass through the flood of hitter water, but I do not fear. My trust is in Jesus. There is none other." The redemption of one soul is precious. Let us rejoice, then, with the brethren, at this period of our narrative ; who through Christ were brought out of their tribulation more than conquerors; and who, rewarded and adorned with the priceless gems of his grace, give him the glory, and were yet willing to do, or to suffer, all his will. 5» CHAPTEE V. Arorangi settlement formed — Description of the station — Happy condi- tion of the people — New station at Titikaveka — Notice of the adult and children's schools — Observance of the Sabbath by the islanders — Nature and object of native classes — Weekly public services — Hurricane in 1831 — Distress occasioned thereby — -Fresh trials from the ungodly — Introduction of printing press to the island, 1832 — ^Karotongan native Christian teachers go forth to Samoa the same year — Notice of Teaya — His prayer — His labours. Some time prior to tlie disasters mentioned in the last cliapter, it was found necessary to form another distinct sta- tion at Arorangi, for the numerous and independent tribe under the chief Tinomana. Since the overthrow of idol- atry, most of his people had resided with the Karika tribe j but owing to the distance of their plantations it was found that a number of them were kept away from religious in- struction. This, together with evils arising from the two tribes living at one station, led the brethren to advise a sep- aration. The site fixed on for their settlement is about six miles from Avarua, a level piece of ground two miles long, at the base of a noble range of beautiful mountains, and fa- cing due west. It involved no little difficulty and labour to clear this land, for it was densely covered with trees and brushwood, the growth of many generations; but the clearing of the land was only the small commencement (54) THE ISLAND OF EAEOTONGA. 55 of labour compared with that required for building and other things connected with the formation of the settle- ment. The people had a mind to the work, but it needed the as- sistance, direction, and time of the missionary, and these he cheerfully gave. A day was fixed on late in 1828, and, ac- companied by the chief and the people, the Key. A. Buza- cott began the honourable work of founding a Christian village. An abundance of hogs, bread fruit and cocoa-nuts was served up at a feast worthy of the occasion j praise was presented by the people to Jehovah, who had caused them to return, with gospel mercies, to their own district of coun- try ; prayer was offered for his help and blessing, and that day, a man was famous according as he lifted up his axe, or wrought with other tools,- as instruments to establish and to advance the common cause of civilization. In a few months the village was completed. It was nearly a mile and a-half in length; a wide and straight road, gravelled with sea-side sand, was made from one extremity to the other, on either side of which were rows of the tall and delicately beautiful tufted-top ti trees. The houses were built of lime and wattle, with general uniformity, from thirty to forty feet long, twelve feet high, twenty feet wide each, and divided into three or four rooms. Each row of houses stood fifty or sixty yards from the road, and were about the same distance from each other, and the whole was pro- tected seaward by numerous large trees which girt the shore. In the centre of this settlement was erected an are bure anga, house of prayer, and opposite it an are apii anga, house for teaching, each seating a thousand persons. The public opening of thg chapel dated the official settle- ment of the station. It was a day of great rejoicing. Only a few years before, yonder mountains, which now form the background of the villagCj were the fastnesses of the people 56 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. when oppressed by their conquering tribes. How changed their condition ! War, tyranny, and dread, exchanged for peace, and liberty, and joy; and the honoured man, Papehia, who first took them the gospel, was stationed amongst them as their teacher. In the habitation where "dragon^' lay, there was now safety, fertility, and civilization. The wilderness was glad, the desert rejoiced and blossomed as the rose. A highway for the word of God had been established, and it came to the people with recompense and salvation. At a later date than that which marked the formation of Arorangi station, was the location of a part of Tangiia tribe in the district of Titikaveka, on the south side of the island. The settlement of this people was the cause of much toil and anxiety to the Rev. C. Pitman, but subse- quently yielded its proportion of encouragement and reward. Soon after the landing of Papehia on the island, it will be remembered that he succeeded in gathering together a few lads in his native hut, for the purpose of teaching them letters and reading. His ability was small, and his means still more limited, yet he did what he could, and a few made- good progress. The missionaries, who subsequently resided among the people, took advantage of this previous prepara- tion, and from the first gave themselves to daily labour in the schools. The formation of a settlement, or the erection of a chapel, was never thought complete without an appropriate school-house. At each village, adult classes for teaching to read were formed, and attended to from half past five o'clock in the morning until seven. Not more than one half of the adults, however, were found capable of learning to read at all, and not more than two- thirds ever gained sufficient knowledge to enable them to read fluently, so that, at this period of the mission, it was deemed desirable to encourage them to commit to THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 57 memory catechisms and portions of Scripture, whicli would give instruction to their minds, and influence their con- duct. In this way, many of the natives who were fifty years old when schools were formed, gained a correct knowledge of Watts's First and Second Catechisms, the Assembly's Shorter Catechism, together with chapters, and in a few cases, whole books of the word of God. At the dispersion of the adults from the school-house, the children were collected together, and for nearly two hours every morning were taught in classes the elements of reading, writing, arithmetic, and geography, according to their several attainments. During the first years of the mission, it was not without much difficulty and labour that anything like a regular good attendance could be secured ; but so popular had the schools become in 1831, only eight years after the landing of the Christian teacher, that out of the limited population of the island, no less than one thousand six hundred adults; and two thousand children, were under daily instruction and consequent mental and moral discipline. Nothing, however, at this time, was more remarkable or pleasing in the people of Rarotonga, than their attendance on public worship and Christian instruction on the Sabbath- day. The greater part of the entire population were in attendance on the services held in the chapels, and after the services, many of them met together at a friend's house, in order to collect and to arrange what each had remembered of the sermon, and otherwise to aid each other's advance in knowledge. This led to the formation of classes ; voluntary associations, numbering from fifteen to .twenty natives, were formed into a pwpu, or class, each of them having a teacher of known intelligence and character appointed to superintend its affairs. Three or four of these classes were met by the missionary, separately, and on different days, between each Sabbath, which constituted a kind of Bible- 58 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. class ; and by this means, nearly the whole of the natives desirous of being instructed, were periodically brought into contact with the missionary. This plan was found to be of great practical utility, alike in the direct information received by the people at the time of meeting, and in the knowledge gained by the missionary about them, by which he was able opportunely and appropriately to direct his labours for their welfare. These classes led to the establishment of a Friday evening public service at each village, which has been continued to the present time, and to the benefit of which we shall have to refer in a subsequent part of this narrative. Members in class, both men and women, have a united service every Friday evening, at which, after singing and prayer, and a five minutes' introductory address from the president, four or five of the natives give short addresses in rotation. Sometimes these addresses are on points of doe- trine or experience, arising out of the sermons of the pre- vious Sabbath, at other times incidents of past heathen life are related, and a lively and grateful contrast is given be- tween the past and the present position of the island ; and frequently, appropriate reference is made by the speakers to events that are passing over their own or other lands. While the individuals attending this meeting were all class mem- bers, they were not all regarded as being truly converted to Grod. Many of them, at the time of which we write, had not been baptized, but each person was expected to be of known moral character, and having a desire to be instructed in the truths of Christianity. Thus the affairs of the mission were gradually yet en- couragingly advancing, when, in December, 1831, a trying calamity blighted its opening prospects, and but for the vitality of the word of Grod, which had been received in a few hearts, must have proved fatal to the future welfare of THE ISLAND OP RAROTONQA. 59 ihe island. A fearful hurricane devastated the whole land, plantations and buildings were utterly destroyed, so that the missionaries and people began the year 1832 in distress, lamentation, and woe. After the storm had subsided, the sea was as calm and the sky was as bright and as blue as ever. The hearts of the men of Grod were also calm ; they were still and held their peace, for it was the Lord's doing, but there was no sunshine there j it was the stillness of that deep unuttered feeling of the inner soul, which apprehends approaching evils, more fearful than those which have past, and finds its only strength in quiet repose on God. In the might of this repose, they prayed to be enabled to meet all the difficulties of their isolated position, in work, in famine, in declension of the people, and in disease. The work of each settlement had to be recommenced, for every chapel and mission-house, and almost every native dwelling, was in ruins ; but before these could be attended to, the plantations had to be cleared and planted, which, with the greatest industry, did not yield a sufficient supply to meet the wants of the people for six or eight months afterwards. During this time both the people and the- mis- sionaries suffered much want, and the mass of the popula- tion had npthing to eat but the sialics of the banana tree cooked with the roots of the ti. It was a distressing season. Many died of starvation, all were much injured in constitu- tion, and weakness and disease were induced, the results of which are, to this day, felt by the people. Amongst the people at this time there were many who manifested a deportment worthy of their Christian profes- sion ; but a far greater number of them were, under the influence of superstitious notions connected with their semi- heathen state, led to draw back from their attachment to the new state of things brought about by the gospel ; and there were not wanting those who did all in their power to- 60 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. make tte calamity an occasion for the re-establisliment of heathenism and crime. The struggle was severe but not doubtful. -The founda- tions of the ancient system had been razed, never again to be laid. Although the great enemy is permitted, at times, to wield air, and flre, and disease as instruments to retard the progress of Christ's kingdom ; yet he is but a permitted agent, confined within prescribed limits. Hitherto shalt thou come and no further. It was so in Rarotonga, in the troubles we are recording. After a few months of labour, in faith and patience, prosperity again dawned on the mis- sion, and before the end of the year, which commenced so disastrously, the settlements were comparatively restored to their former state; new chapels had been built, schools were recommenced, and an organization was set in motion, which has yielded, through God, the numerous beneficial results we shall have to notice as we advance in this mis- sionary history. The two most important events which closed this year, were the introduction of & printing press to the island, and the sending some of the first converts to Christianity to the heathen islands beyond. The circumstances of destitution in which the mission was placed by the gale, led the Eev. A. Buzacott to visit Tahiti for the purpose of gaining sup- plies, and of making arrangements with the missionaries there to secure a more frequent and certain visitation of the island. While .there, Mr. Buzacott gained a sufficient knowledge of the art of printing to enable him to be- come a practical man at the work, and, returning to Raro- tonga, he took with him an old press, and equally old fount of type, with which he had the honour of instructing many of the natives in printing, who, in their proficiency and results of labour, far exceeded his most sanguine expectation. THE ISLAND OF EAROTONQA. 61 This year also witnessed the extension of Christianity from Rarotonga, and by Rarotongan native agents, to islands of the Samoan group. These far-distant islands, up to this time, were in heathen ignorance and idolatry, and the Earotongans had no sooner felt the power of the gospel of Christ themselves than they earnestly desired to take the boon to others. Among these early converts Teava deserves honourable mention, as a distinguished fruit of good Pape- hia's labours, and an illustrious imitator of his example. In maiing known his desire to go as a Christian evangelist to the savage tribes of Samoa, he wrote : — " My desire to fulfil Christ's command is very great : He said to his dis- ciples, ' Gro ye into all the world.' My heart is compassion- ating the heathen who know not the salvation which Grod has provided for the world. Let me go to those savages. Why is the delay? May God direct us : but my desire for this work is very great." This good man's desire was fulfilled. He was taken to Samoa ; he landed in the midst of its savage population; he gained a position at Monono, an influential station, and, besides being one of the most intelligent and consistent pioneers to the European missionaries there, he has for many years been one of their best native assistants in translating, in schools, and in the general work of the stations. A part of "a prayer of this excellent teacher has been recorded by Mr. "Williams, which he offered to God, on board ship, on his passage to Samoa, which is worthy of a place Kere, and will suitably illustrate the design of these pages: ". ... if we fly to heaven," said the good man, addressing God, " there we shall find thee ; if we dwell upon the land, thou art there also ; if we sail on the sea, thou art there; and this affords us comfort, so that we sail upon the ocean without fear, because thou, God, art in our ship. 6 62 OEMS FROM THE COKAL ISLANDS. " The king of our bodies Las Ms subjects, to whom he issues his orders, but if he himself goes with them, his presence stimulates their zeal ; they work with energy, they do it soon, they do it well. Lord, thou art the Bang of our spirits j thou hast issued orders to thy subjects to do a great work ; thou hast commanded them to go into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature. We, Lord, are going upon that errand, and let thy presence go with us to quicken us, and enable us to persevere in the great work until we die. " Thou hast said that thy presence shall go with thy peo- ple even to the end of the world. Fulfil, Lord, to us this cheering promise. " I see, O Lord, a compass in this vessel by which the seamen steer the right course, that we may escape obstruc- tion and danger. Be to us, Lord, the compass of sal- vation." In reading this effusion, no less striking for its intelli- gence and piety, than it is beautiful for its originality and novelty, let it be remembered that only nine years prior to its utterance, Teava was one of the heathen, idolatrous, and savage inhabitants of the island whose history we are nar- rating, and from among whom many such as he, were, at this early period of missionary labour, purified by the grace of God, and dignified to the glory of gems in the diadem of Jestjs the Saviour. CHAPTEK VI. Formation of Christian cliurcli on Rarotonga in 1833 — Translation of Scriptares into the native language — Notice of Rarotongan dialect — New Testament in native language sent to England to be printed in 1834 — Attempts to instruct the people in cotton spinning — Growth of cotton on the island — Failure of health in missionaries — Timely native assistance — Notices on the institution of marriage — Statistics — Interesting united gathering of the natives — Native letters. Prudent and cautious, as they were laborious and ardent, the early missionaries on Rarotonga delayed for some years instituting the ordinances of the church of Christ ; wishing rather to instruct and to root the converts in the doctrines and principles of the gospel. But the important and happy day had now arrived, deemed the proper time to select a few of the long-tried and intelligent Christians, who with the missionaries and teachers should be united together in visible Christian communion, around the "table of the Lord." On Sabbath, the 6th of May, 1833, just six years after the landing of English missionaries, the church of Christ was formed on the island. Each missionary at his station, one with five, and the other with three, of the first-fruits, broke bread together, and drank of the fruit of the vine, in remembrance of the Saviour. With trembling joy the (63) 64 GEMS FROM THE COKAL ISLANDS. brethren, speaking of tte occasion, say, that it was a season truly delightful ; that they had confidence in the reality of discipleship of those with whom they united ; that they had others in view who would soon be added to their number ; that they felt themselves to be in the path of duty in the course they had adopted; and they looked forward with pleasure to the time when He, who despises not the day of small things, would cause their little one to become a thousand. In addition to the abundant labours which devolved on the missionaries of Karotonga at this time, they had to give much of their time and energy to the translating of the Holy Scriptures into the language of the people. Many portions of the Scriptures had been printed in the Tahitian language, at the Mission press in that group, and these were supplied to Karotonga as opportunity occurred ; but it soon became apparent that the people would make but little progress, either in Scriptural or general knowledge, until books were circulated among them in their own lan- guage, but before this could be accomplished, it was neces- sary to compile a correct dictionary and grammar of the language, every word of which had to be picked up, and every line written by the missionaries. The language of Karotonga is a dialect of the one prevailing Eastern Poly- nesian language, varieties of which are spoken in all the islands within 2500 miles of longitude, and 4500 miles of latitude. The use of the k and the ng, however, in the Barotongan dialect, which are not found in the Tahitian, and other diflFerences in structure and pronunciation, rendered it impracticable for the Barotongans to adopt the Tahitian books. Scarcely, however, could idolatry be said to be overthrown on the island, before the brethren gave themselves to the preparation of the word of Grod into the proper tongue of THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 65 tte people ; and as fast as the manuscript was finished so was it printed. Some portions were printed at the Tahit- ian Mission press, and others at Mr. Buzacott's press, to which reference has already been made ; and thus, in the tenth year after Mr. Williams landed Papehia on the island, he had the happiness to receive Messrs. Pitman and Buza- cott's manuscripts, and printed portions of the New Testa^ ment, which enabled him to print the first complete edition on his arrival in England in 1834 ; while the brethren con- tinued their translations, and in a short time supplied the people with an edition of the Pentateuch, Psalms, and other portions of the Old Testament, from the Mission press on the island. Anxious to encourage and assist the natives in things which pertain to their temporal, as well as to their spiritual condition, the directors of the London Missionary Society had sent to the Tahitian islands Mr. Armitage, an efficient artisan in cotton-spinning, with a view to instruct the peo- ple in the manufacture of clothing for their own use. With this object in view, Mr. Armitage came also to Rarotonga, and towards its accomplishment the missionaries rendered him all the assistance in their power. Under the superin- tendence of Mr. Armitage, the natives made many spinning- wheels, warping machines, and loomsj much material was brought into a state of forwardness for wearing, and a few pieces of cloth were finished, greatly to the delight of the wondering people. Circumstances, however, occurred which proved that the time had not yet come when the manufacture could be carried on efficiently, or with justness to theopera^ tive, which, with the early departure of Mr. Armitage from the island, led to the discontinuance of the work. Still it was an era in the history of the people, in which they re- ceived much useful information, and they frequently speak of it with gratitude and pleasure. A great quantity of cotr 6* 66 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ton is still grown on the island, and much more might be raised by cultivation, but it is doubtful whether it can ever be largely prepared on the spot for use; yet it is hoped that the time is not distant when it will be generally cultivated, and form an important article of export, and in that way be one means of pi-oviding a supply to meet the demands of the advancing civilization of the people. Amidst the- brightening prospects which now opened upon the mission on this island, the frequent, and often- times severe ill health of the missionaries, and of their wives, was a great trial, and a source of much apprehension. Past labours, and difficulties, and privations, had wrought their natural effect on the bodies of the brethren; and the Kev. C. Pitman, especially, was more than once so far reduced in strength as to be obliged to cease from labour. But happily the toils, which had induced ill health, yielded timely fruit, in efficient and appropriate native agency. Several pious and intelligent young men, among whom were Maretu, and Iro, and Rupe, and Okotai, were raised up to assist in the schools, and to take part in public wor- ship, by which means the work at each station was con- tinued without interruption, during the different periods of temporary absence of Mr. Buzacott to Samoa, and of Mr. Pitman to the Tahitian islands ; and it now becomes difficult to- select and to compress, within the limits of one short chapter, the varied and abundant successes which crown these years of the mission. The institution of the ordinance of marriage among the people, was one of the most important connected with the establishment of Christianity on the island ; it had, as will be apparent, a powerful and regenerating influence over the whole moral and social condition of this once heathen and licentious population. The manner, introduced, of celebrating the ordinance is as simple as the institution is sacred, and THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 67 it is generally found to result in an amount of fidelity and happiness, which forms a striking contrast to the poly- gamy and libertinism of former years. When affection is conceived for an indiyidual, without running the risk, as they think it, of a lengthened and uncertain courtship, an offer is made, sometimes by letter, at others in person, but mostly by some well-known and confidential friend. In case of mutual agreement, the parties, accompanied by their respective witnesses, come to the missionary or native teacher, for the purpose of having their names registered. These are then published at a public service, either in the chapel or school, at which time it is stated, that the wed- ding will take place on such a day, except reasonable cause be shown why it should not. Supposing matters to proceed favourably, the bride and the bridegroom make their appear- ance the day fixed on, each accompanied by friends ; the usual questions are proposed, and by joined hands, held in the hand of the minister, while he pronounces them to be man and wife, the important deed is ratified. According to the station and consequent property of the parties, so is the character of the feast, varying in quantity from 100 to 1000 cocoa nuts, 100 to 1000 breadT'ruits, 100 to 1000 bananas, 20 to 100 fish, and from 2 to 200 hogs ; together with potatoes, taro, and other vegetables in pro- portion. Numerous presents are also made, consisting of native bark cloth, baskets, English cloth, bowls, stools, and cloth-beating mallets ; and these, with the food, according to ancient custom, are mutually exchanged by the parties ; the bridegroom giving his portion to the bride, who orders it to be distributed among her friends ; while she gives her own portion to her husband, which he distributes to his friends. From 1827 to 1834, inclusive, 450 couple were married, 250 adults and 360 children were baptized, 40 members 68 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. were admitted to church-fellowship, many more than that number were hopeful candidates, and the whole population was under Christian instruction. But scarcely under any circumstance was the happy change and positive improve- ment of the people more strikingly seen than in their united assemblies, where 500 persons of one settlement met 500 others from another settlement, in the "house of prayer," — ^persons who but a few years before were enemies, and hating one another with heathen revenge, and a blood- thirstiness of cannibal desire. Now, twice a year they met together as brethren in Jesus. After reading the Scrip- tures, singing, and prayer, sermons were preached from such texts as, " Old things are passed away, behold, all things are become new;" "He is our peace, who hath made both one;" "Ye were sometime darkness, but now are ye light in the Lord;" "Other sheep I have which are not of this fold; them also must I bring;" "Ye are not your own, but ye are bought with a price;" "Such were some of you, but ye are washed;" "That they all may be one;" " Blessed are your eyes, for they see, and your ears, for they hear." These, and like passages, had a peculiarly beautiful and signincant application to their hearts at the time, and many of them would make short speeches, in which they unburdened a grateful heart in praises to God, and expres- sions of love to one another. After one of these gatherings, the following letter was written by a native young man to Mr. Pitman, which illustrates his piety and his intelligence : " The love of Grod is great indeed. He has given his be- loved Son to die for the world. Had he withheld him, no man could have been saved. This is the only source of salvation, — ^the shedding of his blood. But for him, the desire of Satan would have been accomplished — all men would have been lost. The wrath of God for the sins of men was placed upon him. He sustained it. He died that THE ISLAND Oi" RAEOTONGA. 69 man miglit live. Now, men have found happiness ; have obtained salvation. This was according to his purpose. He died. This is my desire, that his blood may be known and valued by all the world. Let the word of God spread all over the world — it will then be well. I am continually thinking on the anger and the love of God : his anger toward sin; his love toward men. May many in this land return from their sin, forsake wickedness, and be made the children of light. This is all I have now to say concerning the great love of God, which has reached even unto us." Thus did the people realize and appreciate the marvellous change which had taken place in themselves, and desired to extend the same blessing to others. Teava, whom we have noticed before as having gone out a native evangelist to Samoa, affords another happy illustration of this, in a letter he sent to his fellow countrymen at Karotonga : — "My brethren, my heart is much rejoiced by your letters which have reached me, telling me of the continued growth of the word of God in Karotonga. That is the work of the Holy Spirit; as it is written by Paul, 'I have planted, ApoUos watered, but God giveth the increase.' Truly it is of God. When I left you, the good work had not taken much root, but now I hear it has spread over the land. All the people have received it. My friends, be diligent in the use of the means, in learning, in reading, in hearing, in prayer: search the word of God. But I will ask you. Do you expect to be saved by your works ? No; no man can be thus saved. Salvation is obtained through Jesus. There are two kinds of scaffolding — one of banana-stalks, and the other of iron- wood ; those who trust in their own works are resting on the banana-stalks, and will fall; but let our minds be fixed on Jesus alone, then we shall be safe. I am seeking nourishment in this land, but I can only. get at the sap of the tree, but you in Karotonga have the heart, and 70 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. may have it for your own. Tou have prayed for Samoa, and your prayers have been heard. The word of the gospel is taking root here. The idols are being abandoned. The evil practices of heathenism are being done away, and the people are receiving instruction." The little company of believers at Avarua had sent Teava a present of native clotb, mats, and other articles useful to him in his work among the heathen ; and he, having obtained a bell from a ship that called off his station, writes back, " Friends, my body is far away from you, but my heart cleaves to you closely as two pieces of cloth joined with paste. I have lately gained an English bell, which I now send to you as a token of my affection, to call the people to the house of God." In these simple notices of native writing, the friends of missions will find much to gratify and to encourage. The foundations of knowledge, truth, justice, purity, and peace, had been deeply and substantially laid, and the people, growing up in them, developed a character at once the re- ward and joy of all who had taken part in the work. In the midst of this growing prosperity, when every de- partment of the mission required labours more abundant, when schools, church-members, candidates, when workers in wood, and in iron, and in stone, and when those in the printing department, demanded the continued oversight and directions of the missionaries, it was with deepest anxiety that they apprehended the entire failure of health in Kev. G. Pitman. Writing at this time respecting him, Eev. A. Buzacott says, " His illness is severely felt, for we need an increase rather than a decrease of labourers. Besides the work to be done on this island, there are the other islands of this group to be visited." To meet this demand, it was proposed to the directors of the London Missionary Society, that another missionary be sent, who, should assist in the THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 71 various departments of labour on this island, and, by alter- nate visitation to the other islands, extend and consolidate the interests of the whole. The friends of -missions enabled the directors to respond to this call in 1838 ; and in the future chapters of this nar- rative we shall have to record further triumphs over local evils, and successful efforts to extend the aggressions of Christianity on the idolatry and heathenism of distant lands. CHAPTEE Vn. Missionary ship Camden, 1838 — Arrives ofiF Earotonga, 1839 — Chris- tian village — Chapelj school, and Sabhath services — Missionary house — Five thousand copies of New Testament, in native language, taken on shore — Joy of the people — Chief's messenger from Aro- rangi — Young missionary takes up his residence at bis station — The work he has to do — First attempt in speaking the native lan- guage — Missionary makes a globe and maps — Building mission house — Fatal epidemic — Happy deaths — Orphans of the island — Letters to friends in England — An aged native's speech. The llth of April, 1838, is a day still fresh in the'mem- ory of many friends of the London Missionary Society in England, when they accompanied the Rev. J. Williams and his band of missionary followers down the river Thames, to the missionary brig Camden. Two of these were appointed to oconpy stations on the Rarotonga group as might be deemed advisable on our arrival. On the morning of the 4th of- February, 1839, ten months after leaving England, we came in sight of the island ; and as we drew near the windward station, Ngatangiia, two or three natives came off to us in their canoes, who, as soon as they discovered who we were, added no little to our interest and amusement, by quickly paddling back to the shore to announce to their countrymen that it was Wiliamus' missionary ship from Beritani, Britain. Sailing round to the north we were soon (72) *%|fcf>#ii;^ ^ •' \^ THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 73 under the lee of Avarua station, and finding a patch of coral rock in moderate depth of water outside the reef, we came to an anchor. We were soon Tisited by the Rev. A. Buzacott, who em- braced his friend Williams with no ordinary delight, and gave the young missionaries a warm fraternal welcome to the island. On landing in the midst of the people, we were pleasingly afiected with the mildness of their manners, and general decorum of conduct, as compared with what we had expected to see in a semi-heathen population. The first conspicuous object which attracted our notice was the large commodious chapel, built in a frame, 140 feet long and 45 feet wide, filled up With wattle and lime plaster, white as driven snow. On entering this building, we were filled with emotions of astonishment and grateful praise ; it was well floored, surrounded by a deep well-arranged gallery, and had a unique ornamental pulpit and desk at one end. It was a wonderful and overpowering sight, our first Sabbath on shore, to see this house of prayer filled with more than 1600 na- tives, all, with but few exceptions, clothed in native cloth ; and to remember, that only ten years before they were wild, naked savages, but now subdued, and a goodly number of them thirsting for instruction which should still further dignify and bless them. Next to the chapel stood the large and well-planned school- house. At eight o'clock on Sabbath morning, 700 chil- dren were in it, each class of ten or twelve scholars having its teacher ; a hymn was sung, prayer was ofiered, a short passage of Scripture was then repeated by one of the boys, and a few words of address given by the missionary, after which each class removed to the chapel. Only next in interest and importance to these buildings was that of the missionaries' house ; with it we were much pleased j it was a neat, commodious, clean, home-like abode. 7 74 GEMS FROM THE CORAI ISLANDS. Not, however) liemg large enougt to accommodate our par- ty, Mr. Williams and ourselves were lodged in the chiefs house. This was a large, wdll-built, convenient dwelling, erected by the assistance of an American carpenter who had been detained on the island. It was also well furnished with chairs, sofas, tables, and beds, and the floors covered with mat-s. As we looked at these things, we endeavoured to realize the change which had been effected over this peo- ple and their habits by the wonder-working power of the gospel of Jesus. It was our privilege to convey to this people, on this occasion, the first complete edition of the New Testament, in their own language; 5000 copies had been printed by the British and Foreign Bible Society. As fast as these were taken to the different settlements, so were they purchased by the natives ; the missionaries' house was more like a public bazaar than a private dwelling for many days after our arrival. Crowds of inquiring natives came to and fro from morning unto night, some to purchase books, others to relate details of what had happened on the island since Mr. Williams' departure ; some were eager to know all about the printing of the Testaments, the purchase of the mission ship, and the state of the churches in England; while others listened with delight, and gave occasional sugges- tions, respecting plans to aid the advance of God's word on their own and other islands. One day, while in the midst of this excited multitude, a fine, tall, half-naked native was observed running up the pathway leading to the house, and his entrance commanded immediate silence. Seating himself cross-legged on the floor, and for a minute or two vigorously using his fan to cool himself, addressing Mr. Williams, he said, " Blessing on you, I am a messenger of the chief Tinomana." "Blessing on you, my friend," replied Mr. Williams ; " what is your mea- THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 75 sage ?" " Tinomana has heard of your arrival, and is greatly glad, and he has sent to inquire if you have fulfilled your promise." " My promise !" inquired Mr. Williams, " what did I promise ?" " You promised," rejoined the messenger, " that when you returned from Beritani you would bring a missionary for our part of the island. I am in haste. Tell me. It is the chiefs message." Pointing to one of the young brethren with a nod, and with one word to the native, Mr. Williams signified that his promise was fulfilled. The sign was no sooner given, and the word uttered, than the messenger leaped from his seat, and hastily exclaiming, " It is enough I" he bounded down the road with the swift- ness of a hunted deer, and stayed not his speed until he reached his distant village. Never was there a more literal fulfilment of the joyous exclamation, " Behold ! how beau- tiful upon the mountains are the feet of him' that bringeth glad tidings of good things !" than that now felt by this long-expecting people. Scarcely a week had elapsed after the announcement of our arrival, before arrangements were made to receive us at the station. Long before sun-rise, on the day appointed, about a hundred stout men came to aid the removal of our goods and supplies — and the conveyance of them formed one of the most amusing and grotesque incidents of early missionary experience. Tying each article to a pole, two men carried a box, other two a bed, other two a bed-post. Six or eight took charge of a barrel of flour, others of chairs, and pans, and kettles, and other things necessary to the settlement of a European station. Arriving at the village, we were conducted to the native teacher's house, where the whole of the day we received the kind welcome of the people ; some of whom brought presents of fowls, pigs, and native vegetables for an immediate supply of our wants. As night drew on, it became necessary to put up our bed- 76 geMs from the coral islands. stead; as it was the first Englist made one that the people of this statioii had seen, nothing would satisfy their curios- ity hut allowing them to see its erection, and I suppose some two or three hundred of them visited the bed- room for that purpose before we could retire to rest. To describe the feelings of a young missionary not know- ing the language, left alone in such a situation, is quite out of the question J he is surrounded by much to gratify, much to annoy, and much to urge to diligence atid patience. Much work has to be done of which he had no conception until his arrival, work that must be done, and done by him- self, if he would secure a position among the semi-barbar- ous tribes, worthy of his character, and beneficial to their advancement. In proportion to his desire to adapt himself to his new circumstances, so he feels the limited resources at his command — no shops, no stores, no trades, no pro- fessed artisans nearer than four thousand miles across the sea. Within a day's sail of Karotonga, I remember, in great anxiety, saying to Mr. Williams, " Alas ! what shall I do ? I have forgotten to bring hinges for the doors of our house, but I suppose there are smiths on shore who make them." Smiling at my plight, and rubbing his hands, in his own good-natured way, he replied, " O sir, you will find the natives able to make and do an^f thing thai you wiU teach them." Our nearest flour-market being at Sydney, we had brought a barrel or two with us from that colony, but how to bake it became a serious question. The native oven in which they cook all their food is a pit dug in the ground, around which are laid stones heated to a proper heat, on which the food is placed, and covered with leaves and earth until done. This mode of cooking was found to answer well for native vegetables, but it was not available to bake bread. It there- fore became necessary to attempt an umu papaa, a foreign THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 77 oven; and returning from Bohool one morning we set to work. With large stones we built up a table about three feet high and four feet square, on which we raised a mound of earth to the size and shape required, and then built it over with small fire-proof stone. This contrivance answered our purpose very well until we obtained bricks from a vessel wrecked on the island. One great anxiety of a missionary entering on a foreign field of labour is the acquisition of the language of the people. Towards attaining this object we had had almost daily classes on our voyage ; and on landing on the island, acting on the advice of our eHer brethren, we spent as much time as possible during each day in actual contact with the people, learning from them, rather than from books alone, the words, idiom, and pronunciation of the language. Every morning we went to the schools, many hours during each day were spent with the people at their work; and every evening, visits were encouraged to the native class- room. Early attempts, however, to speak correctly in a new tongue, are generally failures, and are sometimes of a most ludicrous character; but the natives are kind, find although they laugh at your mistakes, yet they take great pains to set you right, and with a moderate share of diligence and perseverance, each missionary on the group has begun his first public speaking in the assemblies of the people with tolerable correctness, within six months after his residence among them. In attempting to advance the young people in general knowledge, we much felt, at this period of the mission, our limited supply of school material. A few simple elementary addresses were given on astronomy and geography, which much interested the awakening minds of the scholars, and led us to try our skill in map and globe making. A cala- bash 18 inches in diameter was procured, native cloth was 7» 78 GEMS PROM THE COKAt ISLANDS. pasted over the ends to make it shapeable, and the whole was covered with writing-paper ; on thb we marked in ink, with sufficient correctness for our purpose, the different nations, and continents, and islands of the globe, which, being varnished and placed on a pedestal, mightily asto- nished and in some measure instructed the people. In "addition to these things, we had to superintend the building of our dwelling-house ; and, with a view to give information to friends who have made inquiries respecting the mode of erecting such buildings, I may be excused for giving a short detail here. On the location of a missionary ,or teacher at a station, either the chief or principal land- holder gives him, in virtue of his office, a piece of ground sufficiently large to build a house on ; the proprietor reserv- ing to himself the right of possession when the missionary leaves the station. On this ground the missionary builds his house, and it is the only landed property held by mission- aries in the Rarotonga group. Towards the erection of his house the majority of the people voluntarily assist : a feast is given by the missionary, and it is understood that all who come to the*feast, pledge themselves to erect the shell and to thatch the building. On the day of thatching, another feast is given upon a larger scale than the former, when the missionary selects his workmen for finishing off the different apartments of the house, to whom he gives an ample supply of tools. When the work is finished, an- other feast is provided for the workmen, and each receives, at a fair valuation, articles of clothing, as a remuneration for his labour. In this way our house was biiilt at Aroran- gi, and we were permitted to occupy it within ten months after our arrival at the station. At one end of it there was a large native room, capable of containing fifty persons, in which, besides select gatherings two or three evenings in each week, Bible and other classes were daily held. THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 79 About this time the last settlement formed on Karotonga, Titikaveka, was adorned with a beautiful, strong, stone chapel. It was the first stone building erected on the island, and still stands a monument of the industry of the people, and of the skill of Mr. Cunningham, a gentleman then re- siding with the people; and who, by superintending the erection, rendered good service to the missionary in his at- tempts to advance their civilization. The gospel was intro- duced into this district in .1832, and when this chapel was opened in 1843, the whole population formed a flourishing Christian out-station of Ngatangiia, and was conducted by the efficient agency of a native teacher. Amidst the spiritual successes which now obtained on Karotonga, the missionaries had continually to mourns over the ravages of death on the population. The hurricanes and subsequent famine of former years had induced disease, which threatened speedily to depopulate the island. But amidst this sorrow there was joy, for hundreds of converted souls, ripe for glory, were by this dispensation gathered into heaven. A volume of no mean dimensions might be written, devoted entirely to the record of the individual Christian life and triumphant death of those who were the first-fruits of Christianity on the island, only one of whom, however, we can notice here. " To-day," writes Mr. Pitman, " I have spent an hour with my valued friend Tupe, a deacon, whose days are fast closing. ' It is strange to observe your seat in the house of God vacant,' I observed. ' Ah !' he replied, ' it is the will of Grod. As I hear the people sing, oh ! I wish to be there. But Grod is with me here ; he will not forsake me.' I then spoke of several texts from which 1 had recently preached, and found that he had. been told them by his family ; and referring to the promises of God, he said, ' Not one good thing hath failed me.' I mentioned to him my sorrow at 80 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. the loss I should sustain by his departure. ' Yes/ he said ; ' we have been permitted to work together for God : his love has been great to us, but grieve not ; detain me not. I have no fear : Christ is my refuge. Salvation is of grace, through the blood of Jesus.' Calling again on the day of his death, I inquired, ' How is it with the soul, now V ' All well.' ' Do you find the Saviour near ?' ' Yes ; he ts near.' 'Is the pathway clear?' 'All clear,' he replied; 'no ob- struction whatever.' ' What shall I say to the church for you ?' I inquired. ' Tell the church,' he replied, ' to be strong, to be diligent, to hold fast unto the end.' Life was fast ebbing, and he said, ' I shall now soon drink of the wa- ter of life. Christ is mine. Be not cast down.' These were his last words, and his spirit took its flight to glory." One distressing circumstance arising out of these frequent deaths, was the destitution which they occasioned in nu- merous families ; so much so, that in 1842 it was found there were no fewer than a thousand orphans on the island j as far as possible, their relatives provided for their subsist- ence, but it was utterly out of their power to clothe them. A statement of their case was at this time made to friends in England, many of whom sent out a liberal supply of gar- ments, to be distributed to the most destitute; and the following are specimens of native letters sent by these young persons to their benefactors. "Brethren and Sisters in England: — Great is the joy of our hearts— the destitute and fatherless — because of your compassion to us. This is that by which we know your love to us. You formerly prayed for us, and your prayers were prosperous. God heard them, and his word grew quickly on Barotonga ; and now you have given clothing to the fatherless. We shall now think continually of God's love, and we will also pray to him for you, that his love may grow abundantly with you in your land." THE ISLAND 01" EABOTONGA. 81 Another writes : " Friends and Brethren : — We had for- merly heard of God's love to you, but now we know that you have been loved by him, because you have had compas- sion on us. You have sent us the 'good word,' and slates, and pencils, and teachers; and more, you have sent us clothes, that we may be clothed on the Sabbath-day. Our mothers are dead, and we now dwell parentlessj God is our parent. Our native cloth soon rots. It is only the bark of a tree. Therefore we are glad for the clothing now sent by you. May you be saved by the Messiah !" While thus assisted, the people were desirous to assist, to the best of their ability, the onward interest of the mission. They had no money then, but readily fell in with the sugges- tion to have an annual missionary service, with an especial view to gain information respecting the work of God in the world, and to give contributions of native property towards the support of the Societe Medua (Parent Society) ; and during the two or three years of their deepest poverty, they raised arrowroot for the society to the value of forty pounds, and sent to the British and Foreign Bible Society the same sum, in part payment for the New Testaments they had so recently received. At one of these annual services, an aged- native spoke thus to the young people : "Exalt your voices high in praise to God ; he has saved you from the pit of heathenism. We, your fathers, know the character of that pit ; some of us were born there. The place on which we are now met was once a fearful place — a place of murder ; spears were our companions, and the sling and stone were our cherished property. Alas ! alas ! we ate human flesh, we drank human blood ; but now we are saved out of that death. Let us praise God. His love is great, and let us do what we can to send the word of God to those who are as we once were. The church of Christ is doing much ; they call on us to 82 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. help ; we have no property, but we have land, and we know how to plant. Let ns continue to plant arrowroot for this purpose ; and what we do with our hands, let us see that our hearts be there also." That year, three thousand pounds of arrowroot were subscribed, at the different settlements on the island,- towards the funds of the London Missionaiy Society. CHAPTER VIII. statistics of the island, 1843 — Notices respecting reported island of Tu- analti — Reports respecting Tahiti and New Zealand reach the island — Native impressions respecting those reports — Consequent laws — An American resides on shore — His difficulties respecting planting and land — Refusal of land on rent to missionary — Forma- tion of hoarding-school — Results — How sustained — School-recrea- tions — An account of heathen cruelty to children — Building of a new chapel at Arorangi — Contrast with heathen temples — Death of an aged deacon. The STATISTICS of the island for the year closing Decem- ber, 1843, were as follows: — Population, 3300. Deaths during that year, were 448. Births for the same time, 100. Total admissions to membership in the church since its for- mation to this date, 722. Number admitted to membership that year, 91. Total in communion at the same period, 408. In adult schools, 850. In children's schools, 1300. The only distressing feature of these figures is the immense dispropor- tion of Births to the deaths in the population ; but as we shall have to notice this fact more fully in a later period of this history, we pass on to detail works connected with the in- dividual and general improvement of the people. Early in 1844 a little schooner came from Eurutu, an island in the Tahitian group, to Rarotonga. Under the di- rection of the Eev. G. Piatt, it had been sent in search of (83) 84 GEMS FROM THE COKAL ISLANDS. an island called Tuanaki, known by tradition in all the islands of our group, but yet undiscovered. It is asserted to be situated not more than 200 miles to the south, or south-west of Rarotonga, and is said to consist of three low islands within one reef, and to be thickly inhabited. Prior to the arrival of the Rurutu vessel we had heard much of this island, and had taken a voyage of a week, hoping to have seen it. Two native sailors have seen the island, at different times, when on board whaling ships, one of whom had intercourse with the people. He says, that " they ex- actly resemble the Mangaians in person, dress, and customs; that they had heard of the overthrow of idolatry on Raro- tonga and Mangaia, and that they were waiting with expec- tation some foreign teachers to visit them." That such an island exists there seems to be no doubt, and that it is com- paratively near to the Hervey group is confirmed by all reports, but of its exact position we can gain no correct in- formation. The natives are, however, quite sure it will be found, and often pray for means to commence a voyage of discovery. About this time the inhabitants of Rarotonga became much concerned and discouraged at reports about the doings of the French in Tahiti, and the war between the English and natives of New Zealand. Every captain and ship's crew who visited the island was strictly and separately ques- tioned respecting those events, and on reports thus gained they formed their own opinions respecting those events. Sometimes, prejudicially to their own interests, they were evidently suspicious lest the establishment of Christianity on their island should ultimately lead , to such disasters as those of which they heard in other islands. Hence the authorities convened, and resolved, that it should be a law not to sell any land to foreigners, neither to allow them to marry native females j concluding, from what they had THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 85 heard, that these were the begetting causes of the evils which they dreaded. In order to illustrate the policy, independence, and de- termination with which they carried out this purpose, it may be stated that, some time afterward, a respectable American captain conceived a desire to make the island his home. On landing, he was received and entertained by the chief judge of the station, as his visitor and friend. Marking a somewhat larger piece of unoccupied ground than usual between the judge's house and his neighbour's, the captain one day produced a large quantity of cabbage, coffee, pump- kin, and various other seeds. "Fine place this to plant some of these seeds," said the visitor. " Truly so," replied the native, " let my servants help you." And the thing was done. A month or two afterwards, when the plants had grown, the captain asked and gained permission to get a wall fence put up, round the small plantation. Early one morning, before the judge's friend had made his appearance, two stout young men were on the spot with wood for framework of a house, and they began to clear the ground for its erection. The captain was soon with them, and commanded them to desist. "No," said the young men, " it is our land, and we are going to build our house on it." " It is mine," replied the angry foreigner, and he would, in all probability, have laid hands on them, had not John, the judge, very opportunely made his appearance. Depending on his friend's interference on his behalf, he de- manded immediate redress; but was answered with pro- voking coolness, " that it was bad to be angry, and worse to fight ; and that the thing could soon be decided in court before the chief." That day the case was heard, and the foreigner was obliged to relinquish what he supposed he had secured. The two young men were sons of a native who was dead. The spot of land planted was the site of their 8 86 OEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. father's house, hut during their minority, they had heen living elsewhere ; now, one of them was about to settle in life, and he adopted the only plan in his power to regain his homestead. This matter being thus decided, much to the chagrin of the captain, he inquired about a small coffee plantation inland, which he had planted on the sole ground of friendship, as in the other case. " Very good," replied John, " the seeds have grown, the plants are high, and when they bear fruit, the fruit is yours, but the ground is mine, and the trees are mine." " Nonsense," replied the foreigner, " they are both mine, and when I leave the island cannot I Bell them to whom I choose ?" " No, no," rejoined the native, " we do not dispose of our land ; as long as you re- main you may have the fruit, but the land and the trees are mine." The missionary had not heard a word of this affair, until the captain himself came on the evening of the day to re- hearse his supposed grievances ; and he only seemed to moderate in his feelings of displeasure when he was re- minded that he knew how highly the natives esteemed their missionary, and that only a few weeks previously they had refused him the annual renting of a small potato plantation, upon the ground that they had resolved neither to sell nor let their land to foreigners. Frequent attempts have also been made by English and American sailors to disannul the law respecting marriage, but hitherto both the one and the other remain in force on the whole island. Different opinions will doubtless be formed respecting these decisions ; but it must be remembered that they are entirely of native origin, created by their own opinion of foreign interference in other lands. There are reasons which wpuld induce the missionary to advise a con- trary course of procedure, could the relation and the alliance prohibited, be secured on principles of good faith, honesty, THE ISLAND OF RAROTONOA. 87 and morality ; but it will be clearly seen to be both bis duty and his strength to be quiet in the matter. To return to the advance of missionary work on the island, we must notice the establishment of boarding schools. It was felt desirable, as the mission advanced, to select a few of the best scholars, of good ability, acquirements, and char- acter ; and for the purpose of taking them away as far as possible from native influence, to make arrangements for them to reside on the missionary premises, where they should be taught in branches of knowledge which could not be taught in the general schools, and, as far as necessary, be provided with board and clothing. Mrs. Pitman established one of these schools for girls, at Ngatangiia, which for some time was efficiently conducted by her sister. Miss Corrie. Subsequently, Miss Buzacott has superintended one of the same kind, at Avarua, upon a more extended scale, and which will be a lasting blessing to the people. At Arorangi, we commenced our boys' boarding-school ia 1848. The school-house was built on our premises by the people of the settlement, at a very moderate expense ; and during ten years, twenty-six lads were admitted to its ad- vantages. Two classes were attended to every day, embra- cing lessons in reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, his- tory, English reading, and lectures on general useful subjects ; besides which, three hours a-day were spent in learning the use of carpenter's tools, under the care of a native artisan. Without entering largely into details, the following report, given in 1853, will show the result of its working : — Twenty-six scholars were admitted during ten years; of whom one was a heathen lad from Maniiki, who returned home educated and hopefully pious ; three were young, and characters not formed ; four were intelligent, but no evidence of piety ; one died ; three engaged as seamen on board American ships; five were candidates for church 88 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. fellowship; eight were members of the church, four of whom were usefully employed in the settlement schools; and three had gone out as teachers to the heathen. There were generally twelve or fourteen youths in the school at one time, and the whole expense of board and clothing each did not exceed three pounds a year. Five of the above number were supported by friends in England, who unitedly subscribed fifteen pounds a year; this sum was laid out in the purchase of articles of English manufacture, and forwarded to us, and the others were provided for by boxes of articles, sent to us from congregations, and ladies' missionary associations — contributions of famous and useful notoriety in every field of missionary labour. Desirous to enliven as well as instruct the children of our schools, we were in the habit of having half-yearly treats and recreations for them. At some of these, the children of other settlements united in the festivities of the occasion. The principal gathering was held in the month of May. Jlach class, accompanied by its teacher, walked to the end of the station, where they were joined by the visitors, and where together they sang a hymn of praise to God for gospel privileges. Having partakeu together of a feast, they were formed into ranks, and, with banners of native cloth of many colours, decorated with leaves and flowers and fea- thers, they marched from one end of the village to the other. At the close of such occasions, they were addressed by one or two of the old men, who had been redeemed out of actual heathenism, and to whom the young people always listened with interest and delight. The following will serve as a specimen of such addresses. An old man, who in former years had been a warrior, priest, and cannibal, engaged the attention of the children, by reciting in a vehement manner an ancient invocation to Tangaroa, their idol. He then said : " Children and youths, listen to me. These were our words, and this was our man- CD '-'- Q_ C =3 "0 -n ^ it's at? 3 CQ W Q.CQ CD '-'- Q_ C =3 "0 -n ^ it's at? 3 CQ W Q.CQ THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 93 per prudence, had not their isolated position and limited means prevented. Tuanaki, Maniiki, Tongaveva, Samoa, and other islands were constantly mentioned before God in prayer, with more than ordinary desire to convey to them the tidings of salvation, and not a few of the natives suitably qualified for the work then to be done, said, " Lor(f, our God, Jehovah, here are we, send us. Let a ship come to our help in this work. We feel the heathen to be our brethren. Lord, let us be the means of saving them, in this world, from the teeth of the savage, and of leading them to Jesus, the Saviour." Such was the language of their prayer ; and no hymns of praise were sung with greater fervour or sincerity, than those which had reference to the heathen, of which the following are almost literal transla- tions : — « Mourn for the heathen. In blindness they sin, Boand a^ in prison, And Satan their king." " Let all the idols perish, Lord, False, and only false are they ; Thou, and thou alone, art God, Evermore we worship thee." "Shall we who hare knowledge, And life from above, Shall we quench this knowledge ; This life-lamp of love It is life, yes, 'tis life ! Oh, sound it abroad ; Lot all the world know it, And live by this word!" " Ye messengers of Christ, sent forth. Many are your foes and strong ; But Jesus is your shield and strength. By him, victory is won ; And the crown Of everlasting glory, yours." Thus did the early converts of Earotonga sing as they sent out Teava, Marie, Matatia, and Anania, as their first evangelists to the heathen. These brethren, and many others like them, were each for some years under the private tuition of the missionaries, but in order to secure an efficient native ministry, as well as to provide a continual and suitable class of pioneers, it was found needful to establish an In- 94 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. stitution where, by a few years' residence, the character and qualifications of candidates might be proved, and where they might enjoy advantages which could not be secured by any private missionary instruction. This object engaged ^ the best attention of the Directors of the London Mission- ary Society, during the stay of the Rev. J. Williams in England, and in 1839, on his return to the island, means were supplied' to commence the work without delay. An extensive and suitable piece of ground was purchased from the Chief of Avarua, on which to erect the Institution Building, with an understanding that, if the Institution should be ever given up, the ground* should return to his family. In 1840, a number of ueat and commodious stone cottages for students were built, and in 1843, the house for resident missionaries, containing a large Lecture Koom, and a room for female classes held daily by the missionary's wife, was completed. The Eev. A. Buzacott was architect and superintendent of the building ; the labours of which, together with the duties of the station, were arduous and self-denying beyond all eulogy, but in the fruit of which he has had a reward, and a joy peculiarly his own. Writing in June, 1844, Mr. Buzacott reports that, since its establish- ment in 1839, thirteen students had been admitted, eight of whom were married, whose wives had also received daily instructions by Mrs. Buzacott ; and six young men had been admitted, with a view to go forth as pioneers to heathen lands. The whole number, male and female, who had received its advantages, up to that date, was thirty-three; some of whom were then engaged in the work of stated ministry on the home stations, and others Bad gone forth to the western islands to prepare the Way for more efficient labourers. Thus, in the twentieth year after the landing of a Chris- tian native teacher on the island of Rarotonga, in the midst THE ISLAND OP RAROTONOA. 9S of a heathen, idolatrous, and cannibal people, we see these evils razed at their foundations, and the institutions of Christianity and consequent civilization established on theiT , ruins, and largely sustained by the voluntary and unaided efforts of the people themselves. We have yet to give further details of missionary successes of this mission, but before doing so, we must notice one of the most devastating aiBictions that ever befell the island, and which, for some time, curtailed the resources, and retarded the advance, of the people. For a week prior to the 14th of March, 1846, heavy rains had been falling, whieh rendered most of the roads on the island impassable ; and on that day the weather was so un- favourable, that it was with difficulty public worship was held in the chapels. On the morning of the 15th the wind had increased much, but steadily blowing from the east, we did not apprehend danger, as the usual season of storms had passed by, and we had had two rather severe gales within the past three months ; but alas ! in a few hours — a few, aw- ful, never-to-be-forgotten hours — our prosperity was blighted, and our hearts caused to mourn in anguish, over a desolation before unknown either to ourselves or the people. The wind steadily increased through the day, and in the evening was more fitful, and came in gusts of fearful strength, which generally precede a hurricane, and the mercury indi- cated an increase of the storm. Clouds of densest black- • ness were very low, and flying with terrific rapidity ; tor- rents of rain, with scud from the sea, mingled by the force of the wind, fell on the ground with a density and power of heaviest hail. As far as possible efforts were made, by natives and missionaries, to secure the thatch of the roofs of our houses from being raised, and loose and portable ar- ticles of furniture and stores were packed away in places thought to be most secure. As night came on, the fury of 96 GEMS PEOM THE COKAL ISLANDS. the storm increased, accompanied with heavy thunder and vivid chain-lightning ; and the dense flying sheet of clouds which enveloped the island, descended nearer and nearer until the whole was completely enveloped. So terrific was the roar of wind that the loudest thunder was not heard; it was one continued deep, hollow, awful, maddened moan of destruction, and although it was the time of full moon, yet it required the most concentrated flash of lightning to reveal the nearest objects to our view. In the short space of six hours, the barometer fell from 30° to 27° 0' 50", and faithful to this indicator, the storm raged with increasing fury until about midnight, when suddenly there was a calm — a perfect calm — ^the rain abated, not the faintest whisper of wind was heard — the falling of heavy drops of water, and the sound of swelling streams around us, alone broke the silence. This continued for the space of three or four minutes, and so mysterious was the suspense during the time, that the experience of every individual was that of intense, breathless anxiety, which was only re lieved when the centre of the hurricane had passed over us, and it began again to blow, from another point, with more than its former violence. This completed the work of des- truction : plantations, houses, chapels were made the play- thing of the storm, and our expectations would have been realized, had the foundations of the island been broken up, and every vestige of its existence been swept from the bosom of the sea. At Ngatangiia a little trading schooner was lying at an- chor within the reef, and as the sea rose it was in imminent danger. With a view to save his own life and that of the crew, the captain hoisted the sails of the vessel, and cutting the cable gave her. up to the wind and sea, to be driven landward. She was instantly lifted up by the raging bil- lows, carried over trees eighteen feet high, and taken some THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 97 distance beyond the beach, whence it took the natives three months' work to get her back again into the sea. Ngatan- giia itself was a complete ruin. The sea had in most parts obliterated every sign of its ever having been a settlement ; native houses, chapel, school-house, and missionary's house were swept away, and the mission family hardly saved from a watery grave. Mr. Pitman lay some time senseless from exhaustion. Mrs. Pitman sat many hours, in great danger, on a stone wall, surrounded by a sea of water, and Miss Corrie was only saved from death by the timely attentions of a friend, who, with a native female, was instrumental in her rescue, by dragging her through the water, which in some places was neck-deep. At Avarua, upwards of three hundred houses were de- stroyed, and the entire station desolated. On the mission- premises, the student's cottages and printing-offices were unroofed; and the Institution-house alone surviving the wreck, lamps were put in each window, in order to en- courage natives who might see the light, to come there for shelter ; it soon became filled to overflowing, and intense, indeed, was the subsequent horror of the missionary's heart, when the house trembled at its foundations, and. every gust of wind was expected to ingulf the occupants in its ruins. At Titikaveka, every house was unroofed, many were entirely destroyed, and its stone chapel alone was left stand- ing in the midst of surrounding desolation. At Arorangi, about nine o'clock in the evening, while removing books, medicine, and papers, into boxes for safety, our house gave indications that it could not long withstand the fury of the storm. We sought shelter in a stone house, which stood near, but had scarcely entered it before it was in ruins. During this consternation, a native ventured-to carry Mrs. Gill to a small detached sghool-house on our premises. I lingered awhile, hoping to arrange a box or 98 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. two, SO as to preserve- a few stores. Before, however, this could be done, a native, who had been watching our dwell- ing-house, came, crying in most piteous strains, " Oh, where is the missionary ? Listen to my voice !" (nothing could be seen.^ " The house is down ! we shall all die ! we cannot live out this night !" Hastening, in a crawling position, to Mrs. Gill, we endeavoured to encourage each other in God, and then removed, unsheltered, accompanied only by a single native, to an open field. We dared not go towards the mountains, for trees, torn up by the roots, were being carried through the air in every direction, and we could not go towards the settlement, for the floods had covered ill the lowlands. Thus exposed, we well nigh despaired of life ; but receiving strength from on high, we watched for the morning. Oh, that morning ! It is still living in our experience. Every village a ruin; almost every dwelling-house de- stroyed; every 'pfeffitation devastated; furniture spoiled; wearing apparel injured; valuable books, a mass of rubbish; and our store-barrels, in which had been our future supplies, were for the most part empty, and swimming in the floods. But all this was borne with comparative patience and quietude, until the natives ventured to tell us that our beautiful new chapel, so recently finished, was an utter ruin. This was the climax of desolation ; it overwhelmed our soul, and for a moment we yielded to despair. Looking toward the settlement, I saw a long procession of 300 men and women, coming to offer their condolence and sympathy; they were literally clothed in sackcloth, and rags, and ashes. As they came near, their loud cry of lamentation and woe was heard, but not exactly understanding it, I inquired of the natives, who were with me, who said, "that this was an ancient method of expressing their grief, and that they were coming to compassionate me." Arriving on the ruins of THE ISLAND OF EAROTONGA. 99 our house, the whole party wailed and wept bitterly ; after which an old man, the appointed speaker, addressing me, said, "Alas, our missionary 1 Oh, our missionary ! What will you do in this death ? Our hearts are full of grief for you. We are at home. We can eat roots of trees. We have known these trials before ; but what will you do ?" Then referring to the chapel, he continued, "0 Ziona, Ziona ! our holy and beautiful house ! our rest and our joy ! What shall we do for thee ? Who shall comfort us for thee ? When shall we be able again to build thee ? But it is written, 'Jehovah is our refuge.' Let us, then, be strong in him." Whilst these aiFectionate Christian natives thus sympa- thized with us, and expressed their sorrow on the mission- ary's account, the missionary's heart was filled with dis- tressing apprehension on their behalf. Many months of famine were before them, whichj in their already weakened state, led us to fear the most disastrous consequences; and even with the utmost labour and prosperity, we felt that five or six years would be required to place the stations in the same position they were in before the calamity. But our hope was in God ; and his grace and providence were timely and appropriately bestowed. The first remark- able interposition on our behalf was the arrival of a home- ward-bound American ship, a few days after the gale, hav- ing a large supply of biscuits, flour, molasses, and other stores to dispose of. The next mark of God's care for us in ouj isolated position, was the unexpected arrival of our mis- sion ship, only a fortnight afterwards, having on board our supplies from Sydney. She was bound for Tahiti, but was driven out of her intended course by contrary winds, which much perplexed the captain and all on board, until in our condition they saw that the " Lord had brought them by a rii-ht way." Another great advantage to the people arose 100 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. from the fact that, a few weeks before the gale occurred, a quantity of superior and prolific pumpliin-seed had been brought to the island, which had been extensively planted. These soon grew, and yielded a large and timely supply of fruit. As soon, also, as the tidings of our distress were known in England, the Directors made an appeal to the churches on our behalf, to which they responded with promptness and liberality ; and a large supply of clothing and tools was for- warded without delay, to assist in rebuilding our chapels, schools, and mission-houses. This was a noble testimony and evidence of Christian sympathy, and, besides the actual ser- vice rendered towards restoring our waste places, it did the Christianity of the natives good, by showing them the dis- interestedness with which the churches in England sought their temporal, as well as their spiritual good. Thus encouraged and assisted, the people, for many months, gave the best portion of their time to their planta- tions, and at the close of the year were permitted to rejoice in an abundance of food. The villages however were not so soon restored — ^it was a great work; yet by patient and prudent and regular labour it was done. Temporary huts and houses were at first erected; but being convinced of the importance of more substantial buildings to withstand these periodical storms, the people resolved to build strong, stone houses, in the accomplishment of which they spared no time nor labour. As an illustration, we may mentipn one village as a specimen of the whole. The inhabitants did not exceed 800 persons, of whom not more than 300 were available for work ; but in three years this handful of people, besides attending to labour connected with provid- ing their daily subsistence, built eighty reed huts, fifty lime and wattle houses, forty strong, stone cottages, a stone chapel and mission-house ; and in less than five years after THE ISLAND OF RAUOTONGA. 101 the hurricane on the islands of Mangaia and Karotonga, there were built, not including a large number of inferior houses, twelve large, substantial, stone chapels and school- houses, three mission-houses, and upwards of 300 stone cottages, averaging from thirty feet to sixty feet long, twenty feet to thirty feet wide, with walls twenty inches to thirty inches thick, and ten feet to twelve feet high ; these, with an annually increasing number, now adorn the differ- ent settlements of each island ; and we trust their superi- ority to the old style of building may preserve them — a reward to the people for their industry, whenever the island may again be visited by so fearful a storm as that from which they have so happily recovered. One of the direct, and at the time painful, consequences of the calamity we have recorded in this chapter, was the failure of health in Rev. A. Buzacott, which obliged him to leave the island, in December, 1846. For some time previous to this, the missionaries had met together two weeks in each month, to revise and correct the manuscript of the Old Testament Scriptures, with a view to print them ; hut, this work being now interrupted, with but little prospect of speedy recommencement on the island, it was committed to Mr. Buzacott to be completed in England. Thus we were the more reconciled to his departure, feeling that while his absence would be a present loss to the mission, it might be a means of restoring his health for future years of service, and of giving to the people of the whole group, at an earlier period than could have otherwise been secured, the first complete edition of the Bible in their own language. CHAPTER X. Daily occupation of natives — Structure and furniture of native bouses — Their meals — Their dress — General civilization — Daily engage- ments of a missionary with the natives — Those of missionary's wife — The mission printing press — The premiseSj office, workmen — Statement of books' printed in Karotongan language up to 1855 — Total press work for five years — "Further notices of the Institution — 'Students' engagements and studies — Review of the results of the Institution, 1852 — Inexpensiveness of its support — Formation of Matavera settlement — Laws respecting fermented liquors. In reply to numerous inquiries in reference to the daily occupation of the natives of Rarotonga, and the general habits of their domestic life, we will, without entering very minutely into these subjects, give a few brief notices. Com- pared with most natives of tropical climates, the people of this island are an active and industrious race : they are capable of enduring any amount of privation and toil for a limited time, but the want of physical stamina unfits them for long and continued labour. Their principal food is vegetables and fish ; pigs and poultry are numerous, but are rarely cooked except on festive occasions. There are no shops or stores where food is sold ; each family and, in nu- merous cases, each individual has to labour daily in pro- viding and preparing his sustenance. A large majority of adults, male and female, attend to (102) THE ISLAND OF RABOTONGA. 103 educational exercises every morning, from half-past five o'clock until half-past six. A family meal consisting of taro, potatoes, and fish, is taken about eight o'clock, and at nine o'clock most of the men, frequently accompanied by their wives, are on their plantations, variously engaged during the day in planting, weeding, and preparing food for the evening meal, and for that of the morning of the next day. Each person is pretty much his own master in the choice of his daily work, and the time in which he does it ; even the ungas, or dependants on the land proprietors, have prac- tically their own plots of land, and, as serfs under an easy feudal system, are only expected to bring their masters a certain portion of food grown on the land, and occasionally to assist in work connected with his house. Besides planting, the men are variously occupied in house-building, canoe-making, net- weaving, and fishing; the women prepare food for mealsj frequently assist in plant- ing, make bark-cloth, work bed and seat mats, and sew garments for the family. The natives have three kinds of houses — ^reed, wattle, and stone ; the reed hut is a long, low building, having a floor of dried grass, and when new and clean is comparatively comfortable. The wattle house is higher, and more con- venient and durable than the reed hut, one or two rooms are generally floored with planks of wood, and have Venetian blinds. The stone cottages, to which we have already made reference, are the best kind of buildings, and are yearly inoreasino- in number. The furniture of the houses of the poor, and the slothful, consists merely in a bundle of bed- mats, clothes-box, two or three bowls, and trinkets of knives, scissors, looking-glass, and articles of the like character; but those of the more wealthy and industrious have, in addition to the above, bedsteads, beds, sofas, chairs, tables, 104 GEMS FROM THE COKAL ISLANDS. cupboards, and the floor covered with finely-wrought mats. It must not, however, be thought, that chairs are generally used as seats, even by the better classes of the people ; their habit is to sit on mats, with their legs gracefully crossed over each other, whether at meals, or at work, or in com- pany. Af^ their regular meals, morning and evening, the whole family assemble and sit round the food, which is served up on a table-cloth of fresh plucked leaves, spread on the floor. Every article of food is divided, and all equally distributed to each individual at the table — none is reserved — each person eats what he chooses, and collects the remainder of his own portion, in a green cocoa-nut leaf-basket, which is taken to the table for that purpose. Their dress consists of light English and American cotton material, made up in loose European style; the women having a native cloth wrapper, as inner garment, over which is worn a long flowing robe; they have no shoes, but a bonnet of finely wrought plait,* and neatly trimmed with foreign ribbon, is considered essential to complete their dress. The men wear shirt, trowsers, waistcoat, and coat ; most of them have strong rush hats, for common use, and finer ones for occasional service, and about one in every twenty com- pletes his full dress by putting on stockings and shoes. The general appearance of the whole population is appro- priate to their climate and habits, and in this sense is civil- ized, decent, and respectable ; so much so, that a stranger * A bonnet of this native-wrought material, neatly made in English Btyle, was, in 1854, presented to Queen Victoria, for the Princess Royal; which Her Majesty *'was graciously pleased to accept; and at the same time to express her deep feelings of gratification, at the results of the teaching of the doctrines of Christianity to the islanders," and, with a ■view to encourage the industry of those far-distant island females, Her Majesty ordered a quantity of the plait, fur the purpose of having it made up. THE ISLAND OF RAEOTONQA. 105 to their past history, landing in their midst, could not dis- cover, in their present position, any sign of their former idolatry and heathenism, and would scarcely believe that they are the same race, and in many instances the very same men, who, only thirty years ago, were the naked, savage cannibals described in the former chapters of this work. Many curious questions have been asked respecting the practical every-day employment of a missionary among such a people as the Rarotongans ; and anxious to diffuse correct information on this as on other subjects of island life, we will give a statement of the daily routine of his engage- ments. It will be remembered that I write of missionary life on Rarotonga, which, with its Institution and printing press, has its local peculiarities ; yet, with little variation, it will be found to correspond, more or less, with the duties of each missionary station in the islands of the South Seas. During the first years of the mission, the missionary had to attend the early morning adult service ; but now, that being conducted by native teachers, he devotes the hour from six o'clock to seven, in giving out medicine to the sick ; from eight o'clock to nine he is either at the children's general school in the village, or attending to private ad- vanced classes at home, or having converse with natives ^ about public matters in settlement or island, on which they wish his advice. Trom nine o'clock until eleven he meets the students in class room. From eleven o'clock till twelve he is generally in workshop, where either the students' of Institution, or the boys of boarding-school, are practising the use of carpenter's tools. The next hour is spent in the printing-office, where the natives have been putting up type, printing, and binding, since seven o'clock in the morning. Prom one o'clock to two is the dinner and reading hour ; from two o'clock till three the missionary has individual and private conversation with three or four members of the 106 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLAND. church, or candidates for church-fellowship, or inquirers af- ter sacred and general knowledge. Four days in the week, from three o'clock to four, Bible classes are held with inqui- rers, or classes with the teachers in the schools. At most of the stations public services are held, three evenings in the week, from five o'clock until six : one, a church members' prayer meeting, another preaching, and a third, the Friday general class meeting, at each of which the missionary pre- sides. From six o'clock till seven, if the weather be fine, the missionary and his wife take walking exercise in the settlement, embracing this opportunity to call on natives who are sick; from seven o'clock to eight he is in his study, either reading, or translating, or preparing students' lec- tures, or sermons, or proof-sheets from printers ; and from eight o'clock to half-past eight is devoted to the service of family prayer with students, scholars of boarding-school, and domestics ; from which time until nine o'clock is engaged in free general conversation with the natives of the house- hold, with a view to enliven and instruct, and thus closes the public labours of the day ; these, with little variation, are the engagements of the missionary each day on Raro- tonga, with the exception of Saturday, when the natives are more or less individually employed in personal and domestic duties, which leaves the missionary free. The missionary's wife, isolated from all European society, as her first duty, attends to household matters, making her home as free from care as possible to her husband ; then, beyond this, if she loves the cause of the natives next only to her husband and family, she comes in daily contact with the females of the district, over whom, by domestic example, by practical deeds of female education, by private and indi- vidual conversation, by classes of elder girls, and by Bible and other classes for adults, she exercises a silent and mild, yet powerful, and moulding, and lasting influence over the entire population of the island. THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 107 We have spoken of the mission printing-office on Raro- tonga. It stands on an elevated site near the Institution House, Avarua ; it was the first stone huilding erected by the people of that station, and it has been a means of doing much to promote enlightened views of Christianity, and to extend its successes both in the Hervey group and in islands many thousands of miles distant. It will be remembered, that the B,ev. A. Buzacott introduced the printing press to the island in 1831, and in 1839 the directors of the London Missionary Society supplied the mission with a new press and new fount of type. Several native lads, aided by the self-acquired knowledge of Mr. Buzacott, became proiicient workmen ; two or three of whom, in order to become perfect in the art, went to the mission printing establishment in Samoa. At various times we have been much aided in this department of labour by grants of paper from the British and Foreign Bible Society, and the Religious Tract Society. Books printed in the Rarotongan language, from the commencement of the mission to the present time, are : — several editions of first and second class school books ; a large edition of the Pentateuch and other separate books of the Old and New Testament ; many thousands of small and large Hymn Book ; numerous editions of Brown's, Watts's and The Assembly's Catechisms ; a large number of James's Church Member's Guide ; The Sinner's Friend ; Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress ; a good supply of elementary works on Geography, Astronomy, Arithmetic and Grammar; a small book on Scripture Characters; a periodical of missionary and general information ; school books and Scripture extracts in the languages of Mar^, and Lifu, and New Caledonia; a code of laws and regulations for Aitutaki, drawn up by the chiefs of that island ; short commentaries on the book of Isaiah, on the gospel of John, on the epistle to the Corinth- ians, on Leviticus, and on Romans; and two editions, 5000 108 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. each, of the complete Bible : all of which, with the excep- tion of the Bible, Commentaries, and Scripture Characters, have been printed at the mission press on the island, ^uring five years, ending Dec. 1851, there were printed 132,500 sheets, containing 1,590,000 pages; 20,350 tracts were sewn in limp covers, and 5543 books were bound in leather^j the whple of this work was done by young men, some of the first-fruits of missionary instruction, and whose fathers knew no letter or sign to represent the sounds of their then unwrfEteh- language. Having, in a former chapter, spoken of the establishment and progress of the Institution, on the island, for the education of a native ministry, to the year 1843, we shall here give some account of its internal management, and of its success to the present time. Its advantages are laid open to pious, intelligent, suitable young men of all the islands of the group, only requiring that eligible candidates shall be of known piety, of active habits, and have been in twelve months' membership with the church whence they come,' and that they always be recommended as worthy of trial, by the missionary or teacher of the station. This being done, they are admitted for six months' probation. Each married student has a cottage, and, as far as possible, each single young man has a room to himself; a detached eating-house is built near the Institution House, where the whole of the students and wives, have two hot meals a-day, each in rotation giving a weekly superintendence to this depart- ment. An hour every morning, from seven o'clock to eight, is devoted to classes of practice in geography, arithmetic, and to perfecting in other school studies, — the most profi- cient acting as teachers to the others. Two hours every forenoon are devoted to instruction in class-room. A short prayer is ofiered by one of the students, who also reads from an appointed book, when ten minutes are allowed for / I rrHE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 109 Criticisms on the manner in which the reading was done. The missionary then reads a lecture^ each student writing it as read ; during which, however, pauses are allowed for correcting, inquiry, and conversation. The course of instruction embraces Theology, Church History, Biblical Exposition, Biography, Geography, Grrammar, and compo- sition of Essays and Sermons. A body of divinity, com- prising eighty-four lectures, has been carefully prepared, and is transcribed by each student, during the first two years of his residence in the Institution. From eleven o'clock until two in the afternoon, the students employ themselves in the workshop; and during afternoon they are severally engaged either in study, or class, or examination. From 1839 to 1852, seventy students were admitted, thirty of whom were married, making a total of one hundred individuals, most of whom remained three or four years under trial and instruction before they were sent out to occupy stations. In viewing the character and conduct of these men, it is a cause of devout thankfulness to God and of much encouragement in our work, to find that so few of them have proved unworthy of the trust committed to them. In the Hervey group of islands, no less than nine or ten stations are efficiently worked by these native teachers ; in Samoa, three or four of them have stations and possess the confidence and praise of the missionaries; in Western Polynesia, they have proved themselves equal to labour, to language, to suifering, and to death for the gospel's sake ; in the Maniiki group they have introduced the gospel ; and in 1853 one of these was appointed to labour as missionary to the natives of Rarotonga and Mangaia, residing on the island of Tahiti. The following statistical table of the In- stitution for a period of five years ending March, 1852, will be interesting and instructive to the thoughtful reader : 10 110 GEMS FROM THE COBAL ISLANDS. — Thirty-four men and eighteen women, a total of fifty-two persons, were admitted : of whom two died ; four retired on account of ill-health ; two men and three women were dis- missed for improper conduct ; twenty-four were appointed to stations; and fourteen remained in the Institution. Of the three women who were dismissed, one died ; the other two were restored, not to position, but to repentance and hope, and their husbands became useful assistants in the schools of Aitutaki and Mangaia. Another Institution of kindred character, and yielding equally gratifying results, is in existence in Samoa ; and nothing can be more conducive to present prosperity and future advance of our missions, than that all such seminaries be liberally sustained ; and let the friends of missions who feel interested in this essentially important agency, remember that the whole expense of each student is only five pounds a year ! and that the entire out- lay for maintaining such an Institution as that we have now described — educating, clothing, and boarding twenty students, and providing for all its working apparatus, does not amount to the trifling sum of three pounds a week.* This fact -might be enlarged on, and be made the founda- tion of appeal, but we must leave this duty with the reader, and proceed in narrating further incidents connected with the missionary history of this island. In the year 1849, when we had in some measure recovered from the efiects of the gale of 1846, and were enjoying a good measure of prosperity, a few disafiected and evil-disposed young men determined to create a disturbance, which aiFected the pub- lic peace of the island. The site of the village of Ngatan- giia had been rendered unfit by the storm for again building on, and the rioters determined to embrace this circumstance as an occasion for breaking away from the majority of the people, and forming a new settlement for themselves some * Fifteen doUars. THE ISLAND OF RAEOTONGA. Ill two miles distant from the original village. This plan was opposed by the chiefs and principal landowners of the dis- trict. The contest was carried on between the two parties with such violence and ill-feeling, that it had well nigh proved fatal to the best interests of the whole community. After a long season of anxious suspense, however, the good offices of the chiefs of the other tribes of the island were called in, and the matter was amicably settled by the estab- lishment of a fifth settlement called Matavera. This party soon built a chapel and school-house for themselves, and have now a native teacher located among them. Just twelve months after the above troubl'e was over, a party of ungodly young men came to the island from Tahi- ti, and secretly taught some of the natives how to mix and ferment orange-juice, so as to make orange rum. This be- ing prohibited by the law of the land, was effectively sought into by the police, and parties detected were fined. For some months the right and power of law and order, were sharply contended with by those who wished to introduce drunkenness and consequent disorder; but the authorities of the island proved themselves equal to the occasion. By their firmness and diligence the evil was subdued, and the triumph of the wicked was cut off. Thus we have the evil and the good, the light and the shade, which make up the experience of the progress of truth and righteousness in every age and in any part of the world ; but by placing one thing over against the other, we see our cause still in the ascendant — rising to the praise and glory of Him who has conquered every foe, realizing and illustrating the truth, that because " he lives, his shall live also." CHAPTEK XI. Anxieties respecting the rising generation — Statement of annual crime — Severe and general illness of the people, 1851 — A very general aTvakening and revival — Death of a ringleader in evil practices — The church aroused to prayer and activity — An instance of obdu- rate hardness of heart — His conversion — The revival advances — Statements of numbers brought under convictions of sin — Letter of a native penitent — Speech of a native convert — An address of native to the church — A united communion service of all the church- members on the island — Report of native addresses. In preceding chapters we have seen how the adult popu- lation of Rarotonga rejoiced in the happy change which the gospel had eiFected in their character and condition ; but at the time of which we now write, the large majority of the fathers, who were living when the missionary first landed among them, had died, and a new generation, their chil- dren, lived in their stead. These were called " the gospel- born generation;" they knew nothing of practical heathen- ism, and had to be told, as a matter of history, concerning the idolatry of their land. From their infancy they had been instructed in the mission schools ; they had attended on the institutions of Christianity ; and not a few of them were intelligent, active, consistent Christian men — the reward of the missionary,-the joy of their parents, and the hope of the island. But fully one-half of the young people gave (112) THE ISLAND OF KAROTONGA. 113 US no small amount of anxiety ; they had obtained much Christian and useful knowledge; they were Christians, as much as any nominally so in any Christian country j but we desired to see an inward change of heart more generally in- dicated, as the only power which could resist temptation, and secure the growth, and extension of true piety and lasting prosperity. The two cases mentioned in the conclusion of the last chapter will, in some measure, illustrate our meaning ; but the cause and nature of our anxiety respecting this rising generation will more fully appear in the following police report of the island. In a population of little more than 3000 persons, no fewer than 900 oases of crime were annu- ally brought before the magistrates of the various stations ; cases which represent about 250 different individuals, each of whom was imprisoned or fined, two, three, and four times a year, for fornication, stealing, tatooing, breaking public peace, making orange ■ rum, and other deeds pro- hibited by the law of the land. In addition to anxieties on this account, the month of January, 1851, was a season of peculiar trial ; the whole community was visited with severe attacks of fever, ague, and influenza ; many thus afilicted died ; and for a few weeks all work, schools, and public services were suspended ; but in March, the population was again in its usual health, and towards the middle of the year there were evident tokens of a spiritual blessing about to be poured out upon the very class who had for so long a time excited our most painful apprehensions. When we were dreading a calamity which threatened to overwhelm us as a flood, the Lord, who is wonderful in counsel and mighty in power, raised up the standard of the Divine Spirit; the billows receded — the plague was stayed; and. many, very many, of the most wicked and obdurate at every settlement on the island, were rescued from present misery and future eternal ruin. 10* Ill OEMs FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Among the many providential causes -whicli were instru- mental in leading to this awakening, I well remember the death of a fine, educated, wicked young man. Eighteen months before this took place, he had left the island in a whaling ship for a voyage to the Sandwich Islands. There he associated with the most abandoned characters, and on his return became a ringleader in vice. He was, however, taken ill, and, during the first weeks of his affliction, deter- mined to harden himself and companions in folly and sin, by opening his house to assemblies for dancing and de- bauchery. But his illness increased, and with it the viper' of his iniquity gained strength, and stung his inner soul witb bitterest remorse. He desired to die, but could not. In an awful state of'mental agony he was kept alive almost miraculously, to warn and to exhort those who had been his willing victims in crime. While in this state, he was fre- quently visited by those who desired his redemption, even at the eleventh hour; but nothing hopeful could be ob- tained from him — nothing but declarations of self-condem- nation, and fearful, convulsive groans, which, he said, were the commencement of everlasting death. The excess of his folly was the cause of his wreck, and his grave was, to his youthful companions, a fire-beacon of danger, which pre- vented their following on in the same wild career of de- struction. A spirit of prayer was poured out on the churches ; re- pentance, and fear, and desire for religious instruction were manifested by those who heretofore had been, scornful or unconcerned. This called out the energies of the godly ; domiciliary visits were made, Bible-classes were held, copies of the Sinner's Friend were largely and eagerly sought after, and several hours daily were appointed by the mis- sionaries and teachers in the different villages to talk with those who sought direction and consolation in their awakened state. THE ISLAND OF RAEOTONGA. 115 But in the midst of this, time of spiritual good, there ■were not wanting those who did despite to the Spirit of grace, and, as far as in their power, kept themselves back from his influences, and endeavoured to frustrate his de- signs on others. One such case occurred in a young man who had been frequently visited by two aged good women, for Christian conversation. Always before going they had spent a short time together in prayer to Grod for his direc- tion and blessing, but week after week the wicked man only hardened his heart, and at length became so impudent, that the sisters of mercy to his soul resolved on paying only one visit more; and the young man had also determined on a daring deed, by which to decide that this visit should be the last. It was eventide ; the sinner having arranged his scheme, sat on the threshold of the doorway of his reed hut. " Come in, come in !" he cried to the Christian women, as they approached him. Surprised at this unwonted bland- ness, the women entered the house. It was dark, and the young man requested that they would be seated awhile, until he got a light, saying, at the same time, that he hoped they had brought their book's. Seating them near the doorway, he appeared to be feeling after the two pieces of touch-wood, with which the natives get a light, when, unseen by the good women, he took up his gun, already charged for the purpose, and pulling the trigger, discharged it over their heads. The flash and report almost frightened them to death ; but finding themselves still alive, they re- turned to the village, thankful for their own preservation, yet mourning over the finally lost young man. So they thought; but it was not so. Instantly, on their leaving his house, a horror seized his soul ; he fell to the ground, and remained most of the night in an awful state of trembling despair. The extremity of his wickedness was the climax of God's grace. His mind was enlightened, his llff GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. heart was subdued, and, after sorrowing many days because of his transgressions, he obtained peace to his soul. As this good work advanced, it became necessary to have frequent and protracted meetings for expounding the Scrip- tures, for prayer, and exhortation. With an endeavour to moderate undue excitement, so natural to such circum- stances, every opportunity was afforded to instruct and to confirm the minds of those so recently awakened, very few of whom, however, were admitted that year to church-fellow- ship. During the four months of this special visitation of grace from the presence of God, more than five hundred souls were brought under anxious concern for their salva- tion, three hundred of whom remain to this day consistent disciples of Jesus, known and read of all men. It would be easy and interesting to notice in detail the history of many of these numerous converts, but neither the design nor limits of this work will allow; but with a view to give information respecting their state of mind when brought under those new and happy influences, we will record the following. A female wrote : — " Blessings on you from Grod, who is feared by his angels in heaven, and by his people on earth, but whom I have not feared. I have sinned against him, and I now feel that my sins are numer- ous. I now remember the words of exhortation which you formerly spoke to me, and which I then despised. They are now like thorns in my flesh ; and my sins are drawing my soul down to destruction. Alas ! the fearfulness of that place. . I am filled with distress. Oh, that God would com- passionate me, and draw my soul out of the net of the devil ! My desire is, that you may become to me like Evangelist in the book of the Pilgrim. I had been attempting to take care of my own life, but I have fallen. May the Lord compas- sionate me, a guilty sinner ! I am in shame on account of my sin. I am an orphan, lean of heart, and have no joy j THE ISLAND OF KAROTONGA. 117 and water is in my eyes night and day. I am sa.ying, ' "Where is God ; will he cast me off for death ?' Fire burns in my heart; but I am seeking salvation. May I not join the Bible class for instruction ? None can teU how soon death may come. In conclusion, blessings on you." The following train of thought, spoken by one of the con- verts, is rather amusing, but sufficiently serious in its con- clusion to serve our purpose in these illustrations. In the course of his address he said : — " Fathers and brethrenj — Last night as I lay on my bed, thioking on my present ex- periences, the cocks began to crow, and all at once a thought came into my mind that they resembled our teachers and missionaries; they are always crowing — warning and teach- ing us from God's word. Papehia came first, and he crowed every moming and evening, making known the sins of the people and the love of God ; then came Wiliamu, and Piti- mani, and Barokote, (Williams, Pitman and Buzacott,) and they all crowed, all alike, and continually. Ah ! it was morning then; and some of you fathers awoke up out of your sleep of sin, and you have had a long day, but many of ns slept on : we just heard the sound of the voice, and lifted up our eyelids, but soon folded our hands in our folly, and slept on in our sin. It was thus with me ; but I am thank- ful the missionary did not fly away to another land, and leave us to sleep on until death. He remained, and kept on crowing the word of God. But, alas ! it is noonday now ; my morning is passed ; yet I rejoice that I have been awakened out of my sleep, and desire to give the remainder of my day to God's service." On another occasion, an elderly native, addressing the church-members, said : " Brethren !" and, pausing for a mo- ment, continued : " Ah ! that is a new name ; we did not know the proper meaning of that word in our heathenism. It is the evangdia a Jesu, that has taught us the true mean- 11^ GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ing of the word ' brethren.' But, am I here — here in the midst of the church of Jesus ? What a marvel ! I mar- vel—you marvel. I here ! It is the boundless love of God. You all know me." Pointing to a man about his own age, he continued : " Do you not remember , whom we killed on yonder mountain, and whose body we cooked and ate ?" He mentioned three others by name, whom he and others in the church had thus devoured in cannibal feasts : and then with tears running down his cheeks, he exclaimed, " Oh, the love of God ! how far beyond all measurement ! These hands have killed eleven men during the reign of Sar tan here, whose bodies, with those of many others, I have eaten in our feasts. And is it true that I am here ? Why, even you young men know me. I was a wild savage, long after the gospel was preached in this land. I was one of seventy others who blistered their breasts over the sacred fire of Tangaroa's temple, and I vowed the vow of death to the word of Jesus. I was among the number who burnt down the houses of those who received that word ; and the chapel, and school-houses, and missionary's house we burnt to the ground, and only desired to burn him in it. But the word of God was more mighty than I, and I am here. I think I have loved God some three or four years past, but have not been able to profess that love by joining the church until now. Whenever I have thought of doing so, the sin and guilt of my cannibalism have always prevented me. This has been the great barrier, until, six months ago, I heard the missionary preach from that great word written by the prophet Isaiah, which speaks thus, ' I have blotted out thy transgressions as a cloud, and as a cloud thy sin. Eeturn unto me, for I have redeemed thee.' That word was my salvation ; my burden was removed, my soul was set at liberty ; and, because of the power and love of Jesus, I, the greatest of sinners, am here." THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. il9 This man is now living, a consistent, useful Christian elder, and is a representative of hundreds of souls who have gone to heaven, and of hundreds more .in the flesh who com- pose the first-born of the church of Christ, redeemed from among the tribes of the coral islands of Eastern and Western Polynesia. In August, 1852, a united, communion service was held at Ngatangiia, to commemorate the thirtieth anniversary of the landing of the first Christian teacher on the island. Early in the morning, crowds of persons were seen coming from Avarua, Arorangi, Titikaveka, and Matavera, until, about nine o'clock, A. m., more than half the population of the island had assembled together. About a thousand per- sons got inside the chapel, seven hundred of whom were members in communion in the various village churches. Mtst of the deacons and teachers and missionaries from the surrounding islands had come to us for the occasion. The captain and crew of the missionary ship were there j Kev. C. Hardie, representative of the distant Samoan churches, was there ; the honoured fathers and founders of the mis- sion, Kev. Messrs. Pitman and Buzacott, who had wrought labours abundant, and had endured trials unrecorded, were there; the venerable Tinomana and Pa, chiefs who had lived thirty years of heathen life before the gospel was taken to the land, were there ; the noble chieftainess, Makea, the worthy successor of her sainted parent, was there ; Papehia, the aged and the honourable, who, thirty years before, had landed in the midst of the heathen population, at the peril of his life, to preach to them the word of salvation — he was there; and to complete the hallowed chain, Tapaeru, the native woman who was taken away from her island home a heathen captive, and returned a Christian pioneer — a heroine who fought for the life of Papehia, when her savage country- 120 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. men had designed his murder — she was there. Nearly one thousand native memhers of the church had, during its twenty years' existence, died in faith ; and seven hundred were then living, and that day were united in one commu- nion of holiness and love, and partook together of the me- morials of his death, whose power and grace had introduced them from the kingdom of darkness into his marvellous light. It was a holy day, a sacred convocation, suggestive of numerous and practical reflections, salutary in its various and Christian influences, and ever to be remembered by the aged and the young who formed the two generations present on the occasion. After praise and prayer, the missionaries spoke, by ar- rangement, on the past history, the present position, and foreign missionary relations, of the island; — the elements of the communion were then distributed, and afterwards, a goodly number of the members gave short and appropriate addresses : the fathers spoke of themselves in idolatry and heathenism, and of themselves now under the reign of Jesus ; the young people, with gratitude for their privileged position ; and pledged themselves, by the grace of God, to hold fast their profession, and to do all in their, power to extend the blessings of Christianity to those yet in heathen darkness and degradation: Britain and British churches were borne in grateful remembrance, and fervent prayer was offered to God, still to cause his face to shine on her and them, to make her a still more extended blessing to the nations of the world. Last of all, good old Papehia spoke ; tears rolled down his furrowed face, whilst he unburdened the emotions of his overflowing heart; and holding up in his hand a copy of the Holy Scriptures, just completed in the Karotongan language, he said, that it was the Holy Spirit of God who had wrought the triumphs they had com- THE ISLAND OP RAROTONGA. 121 memorated ; and having committed tlie word of God as his legacy to the rising generation, he prayed, "Now, Lord, lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seen thy salvation, — ^the glory of thy people Israel, the light to enlighten the world." Thus terminated the Thirtieth Anniversary of Christian missionary labour on the island of Karotonga. 11 CHAPTEE XII. The return of Key. A. Buzacott to the island, with first edition of com- plete Bible in native language — How purchased by the people — Na- tive auxiliary missionary societies — Letters from native secretaries to the parent society — Missionary efforts among the young people of the island — Children brought from Rlmitara to be educated — Statistics of the stations to 1853 — Notices on decrease of population — Native sailors — Shipping trade with the islanders — How conduct- ed, and results — Character, life, and death of Tinomana, chief of Arorangi — Conclusion. A PEW months previous to the meeting recorded in the last chapter, the island was gladdened by the arrival of the . Rev. A. Buzacott from England ; he returned in improved health, and brought with him the invaluable boon of 5000 copies of the first complete edition of the Holy Scriptures in the Rarotongan language. These had been supplied to the mission by the generous aid of the British and Foreign Bible Society, and their being taken on shore forms an im- portant era in the history of the island. At the several sta- tions, public religious services were held to commemorate the event, and nothing could exceed the desire of the peo- ple, each one to receive a copy for, himself. Those who had no money to purchase, brought arrow-root, dried banana, coffee, and various other produce, as barter; by which means, in three years, they, in company with the natives of the (122) THE ISLAND OF BAROTONGA. 123 other islands of the group, transmitted to the Bible Society more than five hundred pounds, as part payment for the edition j who, in return for ihe encouragement thus given to its labours, have printed an additional grant of 5000 copies. Besides in this manner paying for their books, the people of Rarotonga have formed an Auxiliary Missionary Society, with a view to send contributions to the parent Society in England, the result of which, given out of their poverty, will show both their gratitude and zeal. Having but little money, the larger part of their contributions is given in arrow-root, the preparation of which involves an amount of time and labour but little understood in this country. The seed is planted, and as the plant grows, for six months it has to be frequently weeded ; then the root is dug up, and is afterwards grated ; then it is washed three or four times and subsequently dried, and pounded, and sifted : and after this expenditure of time and labour, it only yields twopence-halfpenny per pound, when sold to the merchant who may, at long and uncertain intervals, bring his ship to the island to collect it. For many years, however, in this way did these willing and diligent people prepare 4000 pounds weight of this article for the Society ; which, together with money subscribed, amounted to about eighty pounds sterling a-year. Latterly, however, they have prepared less arrow-root, but by barter of other produce have raised more money ; so that, in the year 1854, this native Auxiliary con- tributed to the funds of the London Missionary Society no less a sum than one hundred pounds ; which added to the amount raised for the same object by the people of Mangaia, Aitutaki, and the other islands of this group, makes a total of nearly three hundred pounds a year! This result is as important as it is gratifying, and although we deduct the fact that neither time nor labour is as valuable there as it is in England, yet we repeat it is a significant result, and 124 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. one which nothing but Christian principle could have secured — that besides building and keeping in repair all their chap- els and schools, and subscribing largely, in native property, to the wants of the teachers in Western Polynesia, the limited population of this small cluster of islands should raise so large a sum for foreign missions ; — a people, who but twenty years ago, were just emerging out of the most abject state of heathen destitution, and concerning whom, at that time, the missionaries themselves said, " So great is their poverty, and so few their resources, that we cannot encourage the hope that they will ever be able to contribute the least assistance to the funds of the Society." In 1842, one of the secretaries of the native Auxiliary, writing to the Society in this country, says : — " My letter is concerning the growth of the word of God j we are re- joiced while thinking of your compassion towards the heath- en, — but ours is a land of no property ; we have, however, contributed arrow-root the last three years, but no ship has come to buy it until now. We were formerly heathens, but when our teachers came we found life : the darkness fled away, Eph. v. 8. Then we knew the good word of God ; then were our idols abolished ; and now we are thinking that this word shall grow in all lands still in heath- en darkness." Fourteen years after the above letter was written, another native, sending to England an account of their contribu- tions, writes, — "To the Receiver of the Society's property. Blessing on you from the Lord Jesus, the Messiah. The letter you wrote has come to my hand, and I am thinking ■ by what means we may obtain property to aid this cause after the like manner with you : you English people have an endless variety of ways to get money, even to digging it up from the earth beneath you ; but alas ! where shall we find such means ? We can only cut fire-wood, plant pota- ' THE ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 125 toes, and other things, and sell them to ships. We will, however, be diligent; our hands are given us to work; it is right therefore that we should be strong; and our desire is great that the word of Grod may grow in all heathen lands. In cbnclusion, we will continue to aid you. Although but small, we will continue." With a view to fulfil this promise to continue, the natives co-operate very largely with the missionary to instruct the rising generation of the island, and to encourage them in deeds of benevolence. They have their Juvenile Missionary Association; and their half-yearly school, examinations, and numerous other engagements whose tendency is to form an active, useful people. In the Hervey group of islands, we have more than three hundred teachers in the children's schools, who give their willing and gratuitous services two hours a day for the present welfare and future prosperity of the young islanders. Miss Buzacott, in giving a report of her select school, 1854, mentions eighty-eight scholars in her advanced classes, and gives a pleasing account of the last distribution of prizes to those who had excelled in their studies. Natives also from Rimatara, an island four hun- dred miles north-east of Rarotonga, had brought six of their children to place under her instruction, at the same time leaving a native guardian to watch over their interests. In the midst of this prosperity which prevailed on the island at the time of which we write, the people were visited with the scourge of measles. The infection was brought from Tahiti, and was lamentably fatal, so that the mortality of that year, and consequent weakness of those who sur- vived, added to the previously decreasing population, have excited the most gloomy apprehensions. Prior to the hur- ricane in 1831, it will be remembered that an epidemic pre- vailed, which swept off a great number of the people; and the famine subsequent to that calamity proved still more 11* " 126 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. fatal, especially among the females, so much so that, only sixteen years afterwards, it was found, in the reduced popu- lation of a few more than 3000, there were 150 men in excess of every 100 women ! and, for many years past, the number of deaths beyond that of births has been most fearful, as the following table will reveal. Annual Statistics of Deaths, Births, &c., on the Island of Rarotonga, for eleven years, ending Dec., 1853. Tear. 1843 . . . Deaths. 442 Births. 100 Marriages. 61 Admission to Church. 91 1844 . . . 220 73 86 100 1845 . . . 166 95 78 85 1846 . . . 181 97 51 84 1847 . . . 168 66 23 49 1848 . . . 119 93 45 78 1849 . . . 159 95 40 60 1850 . . . 1851 . . . 97 119 89 70 55 49 58 112 1852 . . . 1853 . . . 81 91 67 92 47 24 206 113 Thanks be unto God ! the last two years give hope for the future ; but of the causes which produced the alarming de- crease of population of former years, we can give no satis- factory explanation ; and, but that almost every island with, which we are acquainted has been suffering the same calamity, in a greater or less degree, it would make the mystery as, peculiar as it is distressing. It must be observed that the climate of Rarotonga is salubrious; that the people'Jiave a vast variety and generally an abundance of food; "that they are notoriously free from many of the most loathsome gangrenous diseases which for- merly so extensively prevailed ; that they have no foreign THE ISLAND OP RAKOTONaA. 127 residents living with them on shore ; that they are active, and, compared with some other islanders, are of cleanly habits; and that salutary domestic and social order prevails, to which they were strangers in heathen life. We think, therefore, that the foundation of the calamity must be looked for in the entire want of physical stamina in the native con- stitution, which renders it peculiarly susceptible to influences which induce bodily weakness. Amongst these influences, we may, no doubt, reckon famine, consequent on the gales ; introduced diseases, such as scrofula and dysentery ; periodi- cal attacks of influenza, with low fever ; want of suiEcient prudence when ill ; and a lax state of juvenile morality ; these, together with the minority of female population, may in some measure account for want of increase ; but we cannot regard them as the entire primary causes of that fearful decrease noticed in the preceding table, and which was going on before' the introduction of Christianity to the island ; for we have reason to conclude, from districts depopulated in heathenism, and from the well-authenticated accounts of the people, that during the last fifty years of their heathen life, not only were disease and war and infanticide making rapid havoc, but that the actual births were then, as subsequently, fewer than the deaths. We, however, hail with delight the manifest improve- ment in health and strength which is at present seen in the population, and our hope is, by our increasing knowledge and by assiduous attention to their physical wants, suc- ceeded by the blessing of Grod, that a season of increase and prosperity may yet be in reserve for this long-afflicted people. It should be further noticed, that the former dispropor- tion between the sexes is now become more equal ; numbers of young men have been taken from the island in the ser- vice of the American whale fishery, and are for the most 128 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. part spoken well of by their captains ; and when remune- rated with equity and justice, and not discharged at a foreign port, they render good service to their friends and relatives by property thus gained. In connection with this subject, and with a view to bring the notices of this island to a close, I will here give an account of the manner in which trade is conducted by the natives with shipping. A ship arives off the island. On its approach to the shore, a native pilot goes to it in his boat, and the captain, on landing, is met by the appointed salesman of the station. Giving the stranger the right hand of brotherhood, he salutes him in the native language, Ria ora na, Blessing on you. The captain is then led to the market-house, where are stores of potatoes, yams, bananas, pumpkins, cocoa-nuts, hops, fowls, &c. A chest of American or English goods is then given to the care of the salesman, who executes the order, and pays all expenses, and engages three, four, or five boats, according to the amount of supplies, to take it off to the ship. The whole business is generally conducted with propriety and satisfaction, and the captain leaves the island,, thankful, or ought to be, to the Christianity which has sub- dued the cruel barbarity of this once heathen people, and has made the island a mart, a refuge, a home, as he may require, during his long and dangerous voyage from .his far- distant native country. During two years, ending Decem- ber, 1851, upwards of twenty merchant vessels, laden with valuable articles of barter, and sixty whalers, having on board more than 100,000 barrels of oil, called at the island, did trade with the people, were boarded by the natives, gained suitable supplies for their voyage ; and in each of these departments found law, and order, and honesty, and tlie commercial deportment of the islanders to be such as could not be well exceeded in any port of a more ancient civilized country. At the entire group, not less than one THE ISLAND OF EAROTONaA. 129 hundred ships annually trade with the natives, and receive produce of native labour in exchange for manufactured wares, amounting to not less than three thousand pounds. In this way does industry, civilization, and commerce fol- low in the footprints of Christianity, and deriving from her their security, extension, and glory, they are bound to do universal and perpetual homage to her power and grace; this is their tendency, and it would always be practically secured, but for the perverseness of man's covetous and wicked heart, which leads it to extol and to rejoice in these blessings, and at the same time to ignore (strange infatua- tion !) the source whence they are derived ! In conclusion, we cannot more suitably close this brief sketch of thirty years' history of Christianity on Raroton- ga, than by recording the triumphant Christian death of Ti- nomana, the chief of Arorangi. By reference to the third chapter of this work, it will be remembered that he was the first chief who destroyed his idols, and was ^Iso the first to abandon polygamy^^that prolific source of heathen war and bloodshed ; these things he did in opposition to his brother chieftains and fellow-countrymen, who thought him a fool and madman. In the wars previous to the introduction of Christianity to the island, he and his people were driven to the mountain-fastnesses, and literally hunted by the canni- bal warriors, like birds of prey. Those mountains he never forgot. Pointing to them, and referring to his heathen life there, I have frequently heard him appropriate the language of the prophet, and say, " See the rock whence I have been hewn ! the hole of the pit whence I have been digged I" After more than ten years' consistent Christian life, he joined the church in 1836, at Arorangi, of which he con- tinued an irreproachable member until death. In discharge of his civil duties he was righteous, just, kind, and firm ; in the settlement he was revered and loved, and always quo- 130 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ted as an authority and example ; in the church he was de- votional, humble, and inquiring. His love to, and research into the word of God, were pre-eminent ; and the remem- brance of his simple, confiding and loving disposition, of his benign, active, and peaceful influence, and of his kind, sin- cere, and constant friendship, is among the sweetest, and holiest, and most grateful reminiscences of my mission- ary life. This testimony is not mere language without spirit ; it is the truthful and natural unburthening of a heart that knew him well, and that will fondly and sacredly cher- ish his memory, until, in company with honoured fellow- labourers, Papehia, and Pitman, and Buzacott, we may present his redeemed and glorified soul and body to the Sa- viour, a gem of his own seeking and sanctifying ; and who, with an untold multitude, will remember their heathen life on Earotonga, and other lands once like it, and with grate- ful and eternal emphasis exclaim, " See the rock whence we were hewn ! the hole of the pit whence we were digged !" Referring to his last illness, the Eev. C. Pitman says :— " Good Tinomana, anxious to see us once more here (Nga- tangiia), was brought by natives in his arm-chair, and ac- companied by his old and faithful friend, Papehia. Arriv- ing at our house, he seemed to forget his weakness, and walked alone; but he soon became exhausted, and was obliged to recline on the sofa. As soon as he revived, we had delightful conversation together, respecting the great things God had done for the sons and daughters of Earo- tonga, about God's love in Christ, prospect of a glorious im- mortality, and joy at meeting there ; — it was indeed a re- freshing season. We met again on the following morning, and after further conversation, I said, 'This is our last^ meeting on earth.' ' Yes,' he replied ; ' but we shall meet above.' I then proposed prayer, and the aged saint bend- ing forward on his chair, prayed ; — praising God for mis- THE ISLAND OF RAROTONQA. 131 sionary labour on Rarotonga ; he earnestly commended us, and our work, and the people, to his continued protection and love. They were holy moments to us : we felt on the very precincts of a blissful immortality." The E.ev. A. Buzacott frequently visited this good man during his sickness, and speaking of those visits, he says : — " On one occasion, I found him alone, reclining on his couch, on the verandah of his house, leaning on his elbow, intently looking into his Bible. ' What, all alone !' I ex- claimed ; ' No, I am not alone,' he replied ; ' God is here with me.' 'What have you been reading?' I inquired. Adjusting his spectacles, he took up Jiis Bible, and read, ' For we know that if our earthly house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a building of Grod, a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens ;' and looking up to me; he said, ' That is what I am expecting.' " Reference was made, by an old attendant, respecting the propriety of his being interred in the ancient tomb of the , chiefs, at Avarua, and to evil consequences which he super- stitiously thought woiild follow, if this custom were not at- tended to.' But Tinomana signified his desire to be buried in the midst of his own people; and referring to the entire overthrow of the whole system of heathenism, he exclaimed, " That season of, darkness is past away, and a different dis- pensation now exists." His heart was fixed on God, and in a most happy frame of mind he waited for his dismissal from the flesh, which occurred in October, 1854. He had reached the good old age, rarely attained by natives, of threescore years and ten, nearly forty of which were spent in heathen life, before the introduction of the gospel ; he was the first man of influ- ence who gave, instrumentally, the death-blow to the idolatry of the people ; he lived to be the last of the generation of chiefs whom he represented; and died, cheered with the 132 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. prospect that his son, of Christian name, Setephano, and Christian character, will follow in his steps. With this prospect we close these missionary notices of one of the fairest of Polynesia's Coral Islands; only adding, its first resident European missionary, the Rev. C. Pitman, has, on account of age and infirmity, heen obliged to retire from the mission, leaving, at present, the Rev. A. Buzacott alone, to superintend its afiairs, which includes five villages, with their churches and schools, and printing press, and insti- tution for the education of teachers and pastors ; in each of which departments, however, he is happily and efficiently assisted by an intelligent, consistent, Christian native in- strumentality. The Lord hath done great things for us; and to him be all the praise ! THE ISLAND OF MANGAU- CHAPTER I. > Relative position of the island to Barotongii — When discovered, and the landing of Christian teachers — An out-station to the Tarhiti mission up to 1839 — Maretu, the first Rarotongan teacher sent to the island — Native addresses on the occasion of missionary of Arorangi going to Mangaia — Circumstances of the voyage — A prayer of a native at sea — Circumstances of missionary landing, 1841 — Week- ly arrangements to attend to native inquirers — A Sabhath-morning prayer-meeting — Public service — Burial service of a heathen — Na- tive inquiries respecting ancient customs — The oppressed conditioa of Mangaiau females. The island of Mangaia is a low coral rock formation, situate about 120 miles, south-east by south, distant from Rarotonga. It is rather more than 20 miles in circumfer- ence, and is surrounded by a reef which has no break large enough to admit a boat ; landing is effected in canoes on the rising surf, over the reef, at which the natives are so expert, that but few accidents occur. The island has about 3000 inhabitants, who are among the most healthy, strong, active, thoughtful, and orderly tribes of Eastern Polynesia; and 12 (133) 134 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. whose missionary history demands special notice in this work, as illustrating the character and efficiency of Christian na- tive agency, — ^having been exclusively left to that agency for twenty years after the introduction of the gospel to its inhabitants. The island was discovered by Captain Cook in the year 1777. An attempt was made to locate Tahitian native teachers there by the Rev. J. Williams, at the time he was in search of Rarotonga; but the wildness and bar- barity of the people at that time not only rendered the at- tempt abortive, but had well-nigh proved fatal to the lives of the devoted pioneers. Two years afterward, however, Messrs. Tyerman and Bennett, accompanied by the Rev. T. Threlkeld, were making a voyage from the Tahitian islands to Sydney, and two young men, Davida and Tiera, members of the church on the island of Tahaa, who had been sepa- rated to the work of preaching the gospel to the heathen, were put on board their vessel to be left on any island open to receive them. Arriving at Mangaia, intercourse was had with the people, by whom a willing consent was given to them to commence their work on their island. Having no- thing with them but the light calico dresses which they wore, and a portion of the New Testament, printed in the Tahit- ian language, which they tied upon their foreheads, these two devoted pioneers, leaping into the sea from the canoe, swam to the shore, and were the honoured instruments of overthrowing the idolatry and heathenism of the island, and of laying the foundations of the kingdom of Christ, which kingdom has successfully grown there, and has, instrumen- tally, by. the aid of its inhabitants, been extended to other and far distant islands. For many years the mission on this island was under the superintendence of the missionaries of the Tahitian islands, and occasional visits were made to it by the honoured brethren THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 135 Barff aad Piatt, who were privileged to gather into church- fellowship the first-fruits of Christian native labours there ; many, very many of whom passed from this life into life eternal before a European missionary took up his permanent abode on the island, and who are now among the redeemed in glory. In 1839, Rarotonga having received a reinforcement of missionaries, Mangaia, naturally belonging to its group, was passed over by the Tahitian mission to our care ; and we had great pleasure in sending to the island, Maretu, one of the most intelligent and efficient Rarotongan native pastors, to take the oversight of its schools and churches, and the general interests of the people. Davida, the first teacher, was yet living, and labouring there, and had sustained a consistent Christian character ; but his advanced age, his fifteen years' isolation, together with his limited knowledge, rendered this step necessary, and it was followed by the most beneficial results. In 1841, it was arranged that we should visit Mangaia, and with a view to gain correct knowledge respecting it, and to advance the interests of its people, we proposed to remain among them some three or four months. The natives of our station, on Rarotonga, fell in with these plans in a spirit worthy of Christianity, as will be manifested in their addresses at a meeting of the church, held previous to our departure. One member said: — "Brethren, the time we have been ex- pecting has come. Jehovah has sent a ship to take away our teacher from us, that he may go for a while to our brethren on Mangaia. They have no missionary residing in their midst. We are now sorrowing that our missionary is going to leave us ; but what shall we do ? Shall we say he must not go ? No; that would be sin. While we weep at his departure, we, in compassion to our brethren on Mangaia, say to him, Go ! and prayer for his safety and blessing shall ba our constant employment during his absence." 136 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Another said : — " My brethren, I have been looking at that passage of the word of God where the apostle says, ' Pray for us, that the word of God may be glorified among lis as with you.' I am thinking this is just what our friends on Mangaia are saying to us to-day. We have prayed, and it is now time that the word of God had covered every dLstrict of that land; let us, therefore, send our missionary. Do not let us be vexed because he is going — ^but let us still pray that success may attend his visit there." An older member then rose, and said : — " I have a word of consolation to address to you." Observing some who were weeping, he continued, "Has not Jesus said, I will not leave you orphans, but I will give my Spirit unto you, and he will be your Father and Comforter. Now, if we are his disciples, he will be with us, as he was with his disciples of old. We are one in him. This also is a ground of consolation. He is the Head of all his members. Our bodies only may be separated, but we shall continue one in Jesus. I have been thinking of the sun in the heavens ; there are not many suns — there is only one sun for all the people of this world — ^they all look to it, and all receive light and heat from it. There is also but one Jesus for us, for those who remain and for those who go ; let us, then, be comforted ; he will shine into all our hearts ; we shall be one in him; let us think of this." Such were the simple Scripture sentiments expressed by the natives of the Arorangi church, on the eve of our leaving them for the island of Mangaia. It is not needful to apologize for their insertion : the design of this work is, as far as possible, to give a correct idea of native thought and character; and this we hope will in some measure be secured by the following notices of the inhabitants of this island. The voyage from Karotonga to Mangaiia, is generally made THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 137 in one or two days, but the little schooner which took us was nine days on her passage. The sea was rough and the wind contrary, and, much to our distress, we were driven hither and thither, until we had well-nigh determined to put back for Rarotonga. Ill however as we were, we could not help smiling at a part of a prayer ofiFered by a native, one morn- ing, and this we did without any conscious irreverence. Af- ter praying for grace to enable us to bear with patience our present affliction, the good man said, — " O Lord, I have been thinking that we are like the children of Israel who were led by thee up and down the wilderness, forty years, on account of their sins. Surely this is just our case now. " When we left Rarotonga we thought we should soon be at Mangaia ; is it not a very near land ? But, alas for us ! we are driven about in this troubled sea — we are first ou this tack, then, on the other; we are sometimes near the land, then, we are blown oS. Alas ! we have need to con- fess our sins before thee ; Lord, hear us ; have mercy on us ; forbid that we die here, as the people of Israel died in the wilderness !" This prayer was answered for us, and nine days after leaving Rarotonga we were permitted to see Mangaia. As we drew near to the coast of the principal station a number of canoes came off to us ; these were manned with young men, who appeared evidently well-disposed towards us, but they were most wild in their manners and appearance; their bodies werd but partially clad, their long, very long, black hair was either hanging oVer their shoulders, or was tied in a knot on the top of their head, the back part of their heads being shaven, and their sing-song chant, while rowing their canoes, was most heathenlike ; altogether we were disap- pointed and surprised, and were only relieved by being in- formed that these belonged to a party disaffected to Chris- tianity, and who lived in the interior of the island, away from all instruction. 12* 138 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Finding the surf on tie reef too higt to allow us to land at the station, we sailed leeward — here we found the sea more quiet, and the reef nearer the beach ; which is a bold shore of perpendicular, barren, coral rook, varying from 20 feet to 60 feet high, indented with deep caverns, into which the mighty sea beats, with awful grandeur, when, lashed by the wild winds, they pass the natural reef boundary. We embarked in a canoe about half-an-hour's passage from the land, and on our approach were glad to iind that a goodly number of the natives had come from the settlement to assist our going on shore. Most of these waded knee-deep into the sea, to the edge of the reef, and as our canoe ap- proached, some of them swam towards it, and took it to the place where the surf breaks, when those who were waiting there caught it simultaneously, and raising it to their shoul- ders bore us away to the village. There was no little stir in Mangaia that morning. We were the first European missionaries come to reside among the people — and the missionary's wife excited no small curi- osity and surprise. Having in some degree recovered from the morning's excitement, we held a public meeting in the afternoon. About 800 persons came together, to whom we explained the object of our visit, and the probable length of our stay. On the evening of the same day, upwards of eighty persons came to the class room in the teacher's house, where we were residing ; they came to express to us their gladness at our arrival, and anxious to lose no time, tgld us that they desired we should at once begin instruction. Some of them were members of the church, and others were candidates. Not a few had brought their New Testaments, and wished explanation on passages which they had marked in the course of their reading ; others wished to converse on subjects connected with civilization, and some about duties of social and domestic life. All this was very grateful to a THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 139 missionary's heart, but continuing night after night, we found it necessary to make orderly arrangements to enable us sufficiently to attend to their desires. We therefore de- Y»oided on the following plan for each week during our stay. Monday evening — to converse with as many as chose to come to the class 'room, about the sermons of the Sabbath. Tuesday evening — for explanations of passages of Scripture to those who had found difficulties in the course of their reading. Wednesday evening — to meet ten male members of the church, and five female members in the forenoon. Thursday evening — to meet inquirers and candidates for baptism and church communion. Friday evening — a Bible- class with young men who were members of the church and congregation; and Saturday evening — to meet the deacons and native teachers. This arrangement gave us time to at- tend to schools and other duties of the settlement during the day; it met with the general approbation of the people, and was conducive to our comfort and usefulness. Our first Sabbath on this island was a day of peculiar interest, and would have refreshed the heart and rewarded the labours of all who take active interest in the cause of missions; and its services most especially illustrate the pro- gress of Christianity under the sole agency of natives. I contrived to attend unobserved the early morning prayer meeting, which was conducted by the natives. More than 300 persons were present. A church member entered the desk, and gave out a hymn, which was sung by the whole congregation. He then read a portion of Scripture, and engaged in prayer. It was truly delightful to hear the simple heart eloquence of the good man while he praised Grod for the mercies of the past week, for the overthrow of idolatry, for the blessings of the gospel, and while he prayed for blessings to rest on the minister, and congregation, and schools that day. To every sentence of this devout effusion, 140 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. the most enlightened Christian might have uttered his hearty Amen. Another church member then officiated, another hymn was sung, another portion of the word of God was read,'' and prayer again offered. Then a deacon entered the desk, aod gave a few words of suitable exhortation, which he con- cluded by a short prayer. On my return home, I was de- tected ; but the object I had in view had been accomplished ; my heart was filled with gratitude to God, and I think it was reconsecrated that day to a work which yields such blessed fruits — a foretaste of more glorious results to be realized above. On my way to the chapel for the forenoon service, I Visited the school ; 800 or 900 children and young persons were present, who, after singing and prayer, were led in classes to attend public worship. The chapel was a lime and wattle building, 130 feet long, 38 feet wide, walls 14 feet high. Looking at it as the entire work of the natives, it was the wonder and admiration of all who visited the island. The numberless rafters of the roof, each neatly coloured with native paint, were supported by 12 or 14 pillars of the finest wood, which were carved in cathedral style. This large building was not only full, but overflowing; even the windows were crowded with attentive listeners to the word of life ; there could not have been fewer than 2000 persons present, individuals who but a few years before were sunk in base and cruel heathen practices. In the morning, I preached on " Christ crucified, the glorious theme of the gospel ministry," and in the evening, from John ix. 25, "One thing I know, that, whereas I was once blind, now I see." It was altogether a day of deep interest — one that we had little expected to experience among a people who had only been favoured with a native teacher's instruction. THE ISLAND OF MANQAIA. 141 A day or two after our arrival, a Christian young man wished me to bury his father, who had died a heathen at an inland district. Thinking it would be a favourable oppor- tunity to speak to the living of the place, I consented to the service. The corpse was brought to the grave by the heathen friends of the departed ; and two of his wives and their numerous children were also present. They were dis- tinguished from the Christian party by their long hair, by their dress, by their wrist and ankle ornaments, and by their wildness of manner. The whole party, however, listened attentively to an address giving a Scripture account of death, of a future state, and the increased guilt of those who reject the offers of mercy made through Christ — founded on John viii. 21, " Ye shall die in your sins, and whither I go, ye cannot come." Through the blessing of God, a salutary effect was produced on the hearts of many — the widows, and many of the children, soon afterwards joined the settlement and schools, and were led to make an intelligent and con- sistent profession of faith in Christ as their Saviour. Among the population, there were many individuals who had renounced idolatry and heathenism, but who as yet ha^ very imperfect notions respecting the spiritual nature and requirements of the gospel of Jesus ; and there were others who still adhered to old customs; it was not, however, a bad sign to find them desirous to be instructed in things connected with their daily life, and although their questions were sometimes amusing, yet they were natural, and im- portant to them. "Is it a sin to eat raw fish?"- one would ask; "We are very fond of half-cooked pork," anothtr would say ; " is it wrong to eat it ?" " Does the Bible com- mand wives to sit at meals with their husbands ?" a third would inquire. Others said, that they began to think that they were wrong in being angry at the birth of girls in their families, instead of boys; nearly all the men were very 142 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. inquisitive respecting their plan of making the women do the most laborious work of the island, and not a few inquired if it was wrong to eat rats. These, and many other such questions connected with their old customs, gave some little uneasiness to the whole of those who came to converse with us, for only few of them had had principle strong enough, fln their joining the Christian «6ttlement, entirely to lay them aside. Some of the more zealous, who had risen superior to their brethren, wished the chiefs of the island to make laws to prohibit these practices among the entire population. We, however, informed them that it was not needful for Chris- tianity to call in the aid of such authority to effect the change which they desired. Eeferring to themselves as an illustration of the power of an enlightened mind, we advised- them to instruct the people in the true religion, and to have confidence in its efficacy, to regulate all things appertaining to daily life in obedience to its laws. The most important thing to be corrected was the degra^ dation and oppression to which the female part of the popu- lation was subjected J it universally prevailed in their heathen life, and was found to be the last thing which yielded to the benign influences of the gospel. We always, however, found that expositions of Christian duty on this matter were listened to by the women with deep interest, and they were not altogether without a beneficial effect on the sterner sex, who were literally, on Mangaia, mdsters of their wives. CHAPTEK II. Erection of a new school house^The opening seirice — Native speeches — The number and character of scholars — Want of books — Parents betroth their childii^ in infancy — Visit to Tamarua — A public ser- vice there — Desire of the people for a missionary — Settlement of a native pastor there — Experience of a young convert — Increase of people attending Sabbath services at Oneroa — People erect galleries in the large chapel — ^Notice of subterranean caverns — Account of heathens on the island, 1841 — Desire of the young people to attend the schools — Number in church communion at principal station — Native contributions to London Missionary Society — Native letter to London Missionary Society. Finding that the school accommodation was too limited for the number of scholars in attendance on the station, we proposed to assist the natives, during our stay, to build a new house. This was agreed to, and a goodly number of them gave themselves willingly and voluntarily to the work ; a site was cleared, and, in less than two months, a conveni- ent school-house was built, the dimensions of which were 92 feet long and 45 feet wide : the walls being wicker-work covered with lime plaster. On its completion it was pub- licly opened, and the occasion was one of much rejoicing. A large feast of fowls, pigs, and native fruits, was prepared, which being arranged under booths of cocoa-nut branches, in front of the building, the children assembled for a reli- gious service. The house was quite full, 1200 children and (143 1 144 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. young people got inside, and a goodly number of tteir pa^ rents crowded the windows and doors. Our subject of dis- course was founded on 1 Cbron. i. 10, 11 — Solomon's prayer for wisdom and guidance, an example and encouragement for the young to seek the Lord. The children listened with- undivided attention, and their speaking eyes, expanded with an expression of deep interest, were too full of meaning to be misunderstood, and too affecting to leave the missionary's heart untouched. In the afternoon another service was held in the school-house for young people and adults. A hymn of praise was sung, a prayer was offered, and after- wards many speeches were delivered. One old man, who had spent his best days in idolatry and war said, — " Friends, this is a new era to us, — ^an era of love, — an era which our fathers and forefathers never knew. God has Idved us, even Its, and therefore we love each other. During the dominion of Satan over our land we had gatherings, but not like this. Of our food, at our ancient feasts, we used to take a large portion to the gods, our false gods, — ^but to-day we look to Jehovah. He is our G-od. He giveth us all things. Formerly our wives were not allowed to eat with us, but to-day they are here, and our children are here, and we are not afraid to leave our homes, — all is love, — all is peace, — this surely is in part the fulfilment of what Jesus said, ' My peace I leave with you.' And, look at this new building, built by ourselves, and for what purpose ? to teach our children the word of Grod. Oh, how strange ! how glorious ! these are new things ; and now let us give good heed to our children, and put no hinderance in the way of their learning." Another old man rose up hastily, at the conclusion of the above address, and with much energy called out, " Brethren, the fields are white unto the harvest : come ye teachers, who have been taught to read, come, here is work ; ■ come teach these children !" and in this strain he encouraged the THE ISLAND OP MANQAIA. 145 teachers to commence their work in the new school-house. Good old Davida, the first native teacher to the island, contrasted their present with their former condition, and the whole service was one of much delight to all present, and a means of helping forward hoth the aged and the young in duties connected with their civilization and Christian education. Before opening the school-house, we had assembled all the children in the chapel for the purpose of arranging them into classes, and found no less than 1060, — 550 boys, 510 girls, had been in the habit of attending to daily instruction. The boys, from the age of six to fifteen years, were fine-looking lads, their shoulders, backs, and arms were beautifully tatooed with varied designs of foliage j they appeared healthy, but their long hair gave them a very wild appearance ; still we were pleased to see them, and to find that upwards of 300 of them could read well. Not so with the girls ; having had to submit to the oppression we have before noticed, they possessed neither the time nor mental vigour necessary to their improvement ; only 50 of the 510 could read i For this mass of children, arranged into more than 100 classes, our next anxiety was to pro- vide teachers, and we succeeded in gaining 60 young men for the boys', and 50 for the girls' classes : only one-half of this number we considered competent, but the other half were all of good moral character, and could read well, and we were glad to have their services for the smaller children. Our want of books was much felt; we had brought from Earotonga copies of the Acts of the Apostles and of the Pentateuch ; also elementary reading first-class books, and others on geography and arithmetic ; but in many cases we were obliged to divide each book into three or four parts, and in some classes to distribute them in leaves only to the children j and we only had 50 slates for the schools of the whole island. 13 146 GEMS FKOM THE COEAI. ISLA'NDS. The practice of parents betrothing children in their infancy prevailed much on Mangaia in their heathen life j it was not wholly overcome when we visited them, and was found to have many injurious results on the rising genera- tion of the island, and on the domestic relations of the people generally,^-one-half of those recently married had been compelled to do so by engagements made for them by their parents. This evil we attempted to remedy, by reasoning with the adult population, and by determining not to marry any party until, by the strictest inquiry, we had discovered the real wishes of those most intimately concerned. Having thus set things in order at this, the principal station, we took leave of the teachers, and visited Tamarua, the second village of importance on the island. Our path- way lay over low barren hills, and narrow fei-tile valleys ; these were bounded on either side by perpendicular walls of coral block, fifty feet to one hundred feet high. As we . entered one of these long valleys, full of cultivated taro patches, and shaded with young and old cocoa-nut trees, we saw at a little distance a newly-finished lime-built house of prayer. At this spot many of the natives, who had heard of our approach, came out to meet us, and on reaching the village we took up our abode in a native reed building. Tamarua, \ip to this time, had not had a resident teacher ; those living at Oneroa had alternately visited it for school instruction and Sabbath-day services ; the whole population, however, was professedly Christian : very many had been baptized, and seventy persons had been admitted to communion with the church at Oneroa. These were now desirous to have a teacher of their own, and to be settled at their own station. At a public meeting of the natives, held in the afternoon of the day of our arrival, we were much pleased. The chapel was large, and pleasantly situated on THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 147 a rising eminence in the valley, and it was well filled with a people thirsting after knowledge ; here we saw the aged man, just spared to behold the light of the gospel-day before he died ; here, also, we saw young men, whose softened manners, earnest attention, and glistening eye, half lost in the rising tear, excited, as we looked on them, joyful emo- tions of heart, unspeakable. We exclaimed. Truly the isles wait for thee, Lord ! and we thought of the prophecy, " He shall see his seed ; he shall prolong his days, and the pleasure of the Lord shall prosper in his hands." After giving a short address, the people were invited to speak. One church-member said, " Now look at our house of prayer — it is finished ; look at our children here ready to be instructed — these also are the members of the church; all that we want is a missionary, and a missionary we must have. You say Maretu is going back for a while to Earotonga, and that Bupe will be stationed at Oneroa; but remember the ship is gone, and we will not pray for its return : the deep sea is between nis and your laind, and here we intend to keep you until you let us have a teacher." Another closed his remarks by saying, — " Yes, we are all of one opinion ; we have been left long enough j year after year we have prayed for missionaries to come to us from Beritahi (Britain) or Earotonga ; and now you are come, you must remain." A third said, " Why should there be missionaries on Earotonga, and not on Mangaia ? Are they afraid of us ? Since the days of our ignorance we have never ill-treated a servant of God. But alas ! here are the sheep ! where is the shepherd ?" These appeals were over- powering ; and my reflections at the time were : " Oh, that the churches of Christian England could see this assembly, and hear these addresses ! surely some one of the thousands of Israel there would say, ' Here am I, send me.' " In reply to their speeches, I said, that we on Earotonga, 148 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. were fiilly alive to the importanoe of Mangaia, and should have visited the island before, but that, owing to the death of Mr. Williams, the mission-ship had been put out of her intended route ; and that now, determined to wait no longer, we had engaged a vessel to bring us, at the cost of 350 dollars. Karotonga, they knew, printed books for all the group, and had an Institution for the education of teachers, therefore needed continual missionary superin- tendence; but that we had no doubt that a missionary would, in a year or two, come out from England to reside among them. With these explanations they appeared satisfied, especially as we appointed a native pastor to dwell with them in the mean time. A day was fixed on for the settlement of this teacher at Tamurua ; numbers of persons from the other stations came to the service ; the chapel was crowded ; I preached from 1 Cor. ix. 22 ; Maretu took the devotional exercises ; and the teacher, in reply to several questions, gave a concise and intelligent account of his views, and purposes, and doctrines of the Scripture; and he was set apart, by the laying on of hands and by prayer, to the duties of his office. In the afternoon another meeting of the people was gathered, who were addressed on their duty and responsibility, from Ezekiel xxxiii. 4. And this was the first service of the kind which had been conducted on Mangaia. The schools at this station next engaged our attention. The adult school numbered 200, and the children's school 250 ; and here again we felt the want of more books. Among the many applicants for books, with whom we were interested during our stay, was a young man who had recently joined himself to the people of God. Coming one evening to our reed hut, he said, " that he had a great desire to possess a hymn-book." I told him that all the hymn-books I had brought for that station had been dis- THE ISLAND Of MANGAIA. 149 posed of! " But have you no others ?" he inquired. " Yes," I replied, " I have others at Oneroa, some of which I will bring when I come inland again ; but, having only a few, I must reserve them for the teachers. Are you a teacher?" I inquired. "No," he replied, "I have but lately forsaken my sin." "Then you have lived your past years in the service of sin ?" I said. " Yes," he answered, " I have been one of the most wicked young men in the vil- lage." " Were you more conspicuous than others in your wickedness?" " I think so now," was his reply. "I have been before the judges six times for crime." " But what has produced the change ?" " The love of Jesus." " Did you long resist that love ?" " Yes," he replied, " from my childhood until Maretu came to us. His preaching about the love of Jesus to the guilty made my hard heart soft. I hated my sin ; I left my wicked companions ; and am now united to the people of God." I gave him a translation of the Sinner's Friend, and James's Church-Members' Guide, and promised him a hymn-book on my return to the station. This young man became an intelligent and consistent student of the' word of God. With a view to devote his life to teaching in the schools, he went with us to Rarotonga for further instruction; but there he was taken ill and died, to enter into the fulness of that love, in which he had begun to rejoice on earth — a brand plucked from the burning, a reward and joy to the church, and a triumph of the Redeemer's saving and sanctifying grace. On our return to Oneroa station, we found that the con- gregation had so much increased, that the whole of the people could not be admitted to the chapel; it was, there- fore, decided to erect galleries; one hundred workmen volunteered their services ; each man had an adze, but there were only six saws and twelve chisels, and a few gimlets, as tools for the whole work ; yet so great was their 13* 150 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. diligence and ingenuity, ttat the work was quickly done, and done well, by these natives. Being completed, they were occupied by the children, and much added to the comfort and improvement in conducting public worship. One of the natural curiosities of Mangaia is its numerous subterranean caverns, which abound in stalactite spars of great variety and beauty. During our stay on the island, we visited some of these caverns, and found them very high and deep, extending in some instances three or four miles towards the centre of the island ; one or two of them have lakes of brackish water, which are evidently con- nected with the sea. In each of these caverns there is an endless number of deep narrow recesses, into which the women and children were wont to escape for safety in time of heathen war, and much valuable heathen property still remains there : many of these recesses are now used as tombs for the dead. In order to understand the reference to attempts to bring under Christian instruction a party called " heathen," which we found on this island, we must remark that there were, in 1841, thirty or forty families, who lived in the valleys, and who had resisted all efforts to bring them to join the Christian settlements. They had given up idolatry, but still retained many customs connected with heathenism. These were brought in almost daily contact with the Christians, and many of the younger branches of their families were able to read : the church-members on the island took a lively and prayerful interest in their welfare. We visited all these families, and found many of them thoughtful, inquiring, and kind; but most of the old people said, that they intended to adhere to the things left them by their fathers, and after their death their children mighl do what they thought right. One of these much interested us. He was more than seventy years old, of fine THE ISLAND 01' MANGAIA. 151 tall figure, over which was cast a flowing robe of the best white native cloth ; the hair on his head and beard was very long, and white as snow. I frequently visited him, alnd read the Scriptures to him, and prayed with him ; he always gave me welcome, and learnt to repeat the fifty-first Psalm. He never came to the Christian settlement, but he had a clear, although limited view of Divine truth ; and I cannot help thinking that his spirit is among the polished gems of grace in heaven, sought out from the heathen world. Many of the children of these heathen families had a great desire to attend the schools at the settlements, but were prohibited by their parents. Some of them, in the excess of their desire, did evil with a view to secure their object ; they stole cocoaruuts and bananas from the planta- tions, and secured other youths to give information against them, in .order to be taken to the Christian settlement before the police authorities ; and, after paying their fine, they remained many days attending the children's school. While there, they gained from their companions school- books and hymn-books ; these they took with them when they returned home, and formed a daily class in the valleys, to instruct themselves j and some of them have subsequent- ly become intelligent, active, and consistent Christian men. The time now drew near for our return to Rarotonga; we had been on the island three months, and had become deeply interested in the people; our labour had been incessant, but our reward was great. If one thing more than another caused us anxiety, it was the largeness of the number who had been admitted to church-fellowship by the native teachers. More than four hundred were in communion at the principal settlement. During our stay we had private and individual conversation with each of these. With three-fourths of them we were satisfied, both as regarded their intelligence, experience, and consistent Christian life j 152 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. but there were some respecting whom we doubted; and this was to be expected, left as they had been, more than fifteen years before our visit, to the entire superintendence of the first teachers, who had but limited advantages during the infant state of the Tahitian mission. Altogether, however, viewing teachers and people, the advance of the population was wonderful in our eyes. It was indeed, the Lord's doing, and not man's ! On leaving the island, the natives committed to our care, as contributions to the London Missionary Society, the sum of £16 2s. i.d., and £47 17s. Qd. to the British and Foreign Bible Society, in payment for New Testaments they had received from that noble institution. These amounts were raised, not in money, but by labour, in fish- ing-nets and arrow-root; and twelve months afterwards, these same people, by the same means, sent a further con- tribution of £11 12s. 6c^. to the Missionary Society, enclosed in the following letter to the Directors : — " Friends, Bre- thren, and Sisters — Blessing on you from God ! When Wiliamu ma fiirst came to us we were heathens, — they brought us the word of G-od, and we ill-treated them and their wives, — we scattered their property, and took the books which they brought us, and used them as ornaments in our heathen dances. This we did in our blindness; but when we knew the word of God we wept greatly. But the word spoken by Isaiah (ix. 2), isi now fulfilled. Through your compassion and prayers we have obtained the knowledge of J6sus our Saviour. Our former gods — many in number — were of wood and stone ; each family had its separate god ; but now we have one God, as is written by Paul, Ephe- sians ii. 13. Look at that passage ! Brethren, here is another little word to you — we are much in want of slates,, paper, pens, ink, and pencils. We have learned to write on sand and on leaves, and we desire you to send us a supply THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 153 of the things mentioned. We now greatly rejoice in the testimony of Paul, 2 Cor. v. 18, 19. By that Word we know our former state of hlindness, and are now reconciled to God : because of his great love our war-clubs are laid aside, and we are become brethren ! Signed — " NuMANGATiNi, who collects. (Treasurer.) SoLOMONA, who writes." (Secretary.) CHAPTEE III. Calamitous accident to the native pastor — His removal to Rarotonga — Missionary visit to Ivirua settlemeat — Industry of the people and beauty of the valleys — The old natives' remembrance of Captain CooVs visit to the island — Their sorrow at the cruel treatment of Fapehia — Homage done to the first pig put on shore — Opening of a new chapel at Ivirua — Settlement of Fori there as native pastor — An English captain's unjust trade with the people — Third missionary visit to the island in 1843 — State of education at the principal station — Christian Visitors* Association — Statistics of Oneroa — Missionary visit to a heathen family — The death of Ngatae, a native teacher. TwELVH montlis after our return to Rarotonga, from the visit to Mangaia, noticed in the preceding chapter, we were called to go back to the island under circumstances most painful. An American whaler had called there, and had taken in a supply of hogs, yams, potatoes, &c., the captain of which had shown much kindness to the people. On his taking leave of them, they asked him to favour them by giving two or three volleys from the te pupui maata o te pai, or the big guns of the ship, the report of which they had heard was like mangungu or thunder. Getting on board his ship, the captain gratified the desire of the people, and they heard the thunder report of the great guns, which won- derfully astonished and pleased them. With a view to return the compliment, Maretu filled (154) THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 155 his double-barrelled gun with powder, and fired a salute; in doing so, however, the barrels burst, and one of his hands was completely shattered ; and the poor man fell as dead to the ground. A canoe was immediately sent off to the ship to give information of the accident; the captain went on shore, and after giving the natives all the information in his power, as to the mode of treating the case, he sailed direct for Rarotonga, in order to communicate to us the distressing intelUgence. A small trading schooner had just come to Rarotonga from Tahiti, which we chartered, and sailed for Mangaia, which "we reached a week after th^ accident had taken place. Cretting near to the shore, sjfcveral natives came off to us in their canoes, calling out, as they approached us, " Praise be to God ! You are come ; hasten on shore ; Maretu still lives, and has been praying to see you." Poor fellow ! We found his hand fearfully fractured, afid his whole body in a high state of fever. Detaining the y'essel several days, we did our best to subdue the worst symptoms, but concluded, that in order to prevent mortification, it would be necessary to amputate some part of the arm ; and not wishing to undertake this responsible work alone, we resolved to remove him to Rarotonga; this we did with as Jittle loss of time as possible, and the good man recovered, re-entered on his labour, and is, at this time, one of the fathers among the native pastors of the islands. Previous to our leaving the island in 1841, we visited the third settlement called Ivirua. On our way thither, we were gratified with the evident marks of the industry of the people. The land is sterile and unfruitful, compared with the luxuriant richness of Rarotonga, whose mountain sum- mits and coral shores are alike covered with every variety of verdure ; but here the well-watered and highly cultivated valleys formed a striking contrast to the surrounding hills, 156 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. ■which were covered with nothing but sun-burnt grass and weather-beaten fern. The houses which formed the village of Ivirua, were built on detached spots of rising ground in one of these valleys, and were surrounded with taro swamps and yam plantations, and shaded with the wide-spread branches of the lofty cocoa-nut trees. The population of this small station was about 500, sixty of whom were united in church-com- munion at the principal station, Oneroa; and two hundred children were in daily attendance at the school. During our stay here, we had frequent conversations with the people who visited us, respecting their former heathen state, and the blessings of the gospel which were now so richly enjoyed by them. The old natives gained new vigour of body and mind, while they related to us, in language of deprecation, the facts and details of their idol-worship and their heathenism. The last man who had seen Captain Cook, when he visited the island, had died a month or two before we arrived ; but most of the present population remembered the accounts respecting him and his ship, as given to them by their own parents; and they preserved with great sacred- ness an axe, and two or three old knives, which were left on shore by this early navigator and discoverer of the island. It was Interesting also to witness their emotions of sor- row, while they told us of their cruelty towards Papehia, the Christian teacher, whom Wiliamu wished to leave among them, and of their subsequent affliction, by which God prepared their hearts to receive Davida when he came. They also told us, with much shame, of a singular instance of their heathen ignorance and superstition. When Davida landed on the island, he brought with him a pig. Having never before seen any animal larger than a rat, they looked on this pig with mingled emotions of awe and pleasure, — they believed it to be a representative of some superior THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 157 spirit, i te ao a muri afu, of the other world. The teacher did all he could to convince them, that it was only an in- ferior animal, brought by him on shore with a view to bene- fit the people ; but they were determined to do it temple honour; they clothed it in white bark, sacred cloth, and took it in triumph to the principal Marae on the island, where they fastened it to the pedestal of one of their gods. For some time she resisted such honour, and made attempts to get at large, but all efforts to escape proved futile ; for two months her degraded votaries brought her daily offerings of the best fruits of the land, and presented to her the homage of worship. At length, however, she repaid the degraded devotees by a litter ; and the young ones also were considered as sacred as the mother : for some time they kept within the precincts of the temple, until, becoming more unmanageable than the dumb gods, they were left to the privilege of a wide range over the land. The teacher, who had not ceased to- ridicule their folly, succeeded in having the sow returned to him, which he killed, and cooked, and ate ! Thus was the spell broken ; and since then tlje pos- terity of this honoured ancestor of the pig tribe have been left to their natural state, administering no small gratifica- tion to the people at their feasts, and, by barter, are now the principal means by which they obtain foreign property from ships that call at the island. It will be pleasing to the friends of Christian missions to the heathen, to turn from such degradation to the scenes which awaited us on our second visit to this station. Dur- ing the twelve months of our absence, the natives had built a large and commodious chapel, and we arrived just in time to take the opening services. This lime-built house of prayer stood in the midst of the scattered reed huts of the people; the wooden gong was beaten, the sound of which echoed from valley to valley, announcing the worship of li 158 OEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS.. Jehovah, the living and the true Grod, in the place where Satan held absolute and universal dominion a few years be- fore ; and where the people had been wont, alternately, to revel in the delights of heathen wickedness, and to listen with frantic excitement to the war-whoops of their neigh- bours, who made frequent attacks on them. Now, how changed and how happy their condition ! We saw company after company coming along the paths of the mountains and of the valleys, all cheerful, and enlightened, and free. They entered the new house of God, and after praise, and prayer, and reading the Scriptures, we meditated on one of the gospel promises by the prophet Isaiah (Ivii. 7), " My house shall be called a house of prayer for all people." After the morning service, we held a church-meeting, and had the pleasure of locating at this station Fori, a native teacher from the Institution, Rarotonga. He was a good man; and with prudence, intelligence, and consistency he fulfilled the duties of the ministry, until -he was removed by death to his rest and reward. The Christian natives of Mangaia were about this time injured and annoyed by an injustice in barter, which was calculated to excite the worst passions of retaliation. An English captain went on shore, who, by friendliness -towards the teacher, disarmed the people of all idea of deceit in trade. The deacons of the church were in want of wine for the communion-service, and offered to barter fishing-nets — the contribution of the church — in order to obtain a supply. The captain assured them that he had on board the best that could be bought, and that he would, as a favour, let them have some, but it was very expensive; terms were stated; an agreement was made; the box of wine was landed, for which an unheard-of, exorbitant price was paid, and the captain left the island. On opening the purchase, however, it was found to be the veriest filthy mixture of THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 159 claret, water, rum, and other things, that can be conceived of, and the whole was thrown away. This act of unjust ad- vantage on the ignorance and simplicity of the natives, done by one who professed to have interest and sympathy in Christian missions, did much to withdraw the confidence of the godly, and became a justification with the ungodly in their attempts to impose on foreigners who afterwards visited their shores. In 1843, not having a missionary ship for the islands, we were obliged to charter a trading vessel to take us to the out- stations of the Hervey group, and on the 17th of June we again landed on Mangaia j it was our third visit to the island, and we remained there six months ; during which time we gained much information respecting the correct state of its churches, schools, and stations, the whole of which was peculiarly gratifying, as the result of native Christian in- strumentality. One of the most pleasing features of the island at this time was the prosperity in the adults' and children's schools. No fewer than ninety male and female teachers were daily employed in instructing nine hundred children. With these teachers we had four, and sometimes six classes g- week, giving them lessons in history, biography, geography, and Biblical expositions. Besides these, we met, every other day, adults in church-fellowship, and others under instruc- tion, of whose attainments the following figures will give to the thoughtful reader a pretty correct idea : — An adult male Bible-class, 23 in number — 19 able to read well ; 6 had Testaments ; 17 had leaves of books only. Another male class, 17 in number — 4 only not able to read ; only 1 had a complete Testament. In a third class, 19 in number — 14 could read well ; 14 had complete Testaments. In two other classes, 49 in number — 37 could read well; 42 had complete Testaments. In the adult female classes, con- ducted by the missionary's wife, it was gratifying to find 160 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. that a decided improvement had taken place in tieir con- dition since our last residence among them. Much more, however, remained to be done before they attained a proper riiental or social position. In a Bible-class of female adults 14 in rnunber — 3 only could read, and 12 had portions only of books. In another class, 20 in number — 4 only could read well, and 3 only had " complete books. In two other classes, 39 in number — 18 were able to read ; 8 only of whom had Testaments. In accordance with arrangements made by us in 1841, no members had been admitted to the church, but all candi- dates had been formed into Bible-classes, receiving weekly instruction from the teacher j and hence we found seventy men and women, some old, others young, waiting among the inquirers after Zion, with their faces thitherward. Many of the members of the church had also united them- selves together in a Christian Association, for visiting the careless and ungodly of the island. The following were the resolutions agreed on by themselves, under the superin- tendence of Tairi, an excellent Rarotongan teacher : — 1st. " That compassion towards our brethren in this land, who are living in unbelief and sin, leads us to unite in this plan for their good. 2nd. That we purpose to visit such at their houses twice a-week, and also on Sabbath evenings, for con- versation, reading, and prayer. 3rd. That we meet the first Wednesday of every month at the teacher's (native) house, to give in a report, and to unite together in consulta- tion and prayer." To the efforts of this Association the subsequent spiritual prosperity of Mangaia is mainly indebted. Most of its members were pious, active, prudent men; and many of those for whose welfare they laboured are now the glory and stability of Christian truth on the island. The general statistics of Oneroa, the principal station, in 1843 — not THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 161 twenty years after the landing of the first Christian teacher — were, inhabitants, 2000 ; number in adult classes, 306 ; boys and girls in children's school, 900 ; number in church^ fellowship, 360. For the year ending September 30, 1843, there were sixty-five births, forty deaths, twenty-two mar- riages, forty-five infants and four adults baptized. One afternoon we passed over the low hills which separate two districts, in order to visit one of the heathen families referred to in the last chapter. In a long, low, reed hut we found the father of this family seated on a stool. He was tall in person, well clad with native cloth, grave in manner, and about forty years old ; numerous ornaments of shell and human hair were suspended at the lobe of each ear ; his own long hair hung dishevelled on his back, and about thirty of his children, and children's children sat around him. " Friend, we have come to see you," I said, on entering his house. " Blessing on you !" " What is your name ?" " My name is Tiraj,"- was his reply. " Are these your chil- dren ?" " Yes, most of them are my children." " How many wives have you ?" I inquired. " I have only one wife now living; three are dead," he replied. "Is this your dwelling-place?" "Yes; here my father, and my father's father lived, and here I live with my children, and here I intend to die."' " Friend," I continued, " the light of the word of the true Grod has now been shining a long time on you, in Mangaia. Have you no desire to attend to instruction in that word?" "No," he replied; "but I sometimes hesitate." " You are getting old, my friend," I rejoined, "and death may come and find you destitute of that good which alone prepares for another world." " Yes, death may come," he replied; "and then there will be an end." " An end !" I exclaimed ; " but you believe in a future state, do you not?" "Yes," he continued; "but who knows the truth about it ?" Here we tried to explain li* 162 GEMS PROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. to Hm the truths of the word of God, about sin and salva^ tion, this world and the world to come, and these things were evidently not new to him ; but he became sullen and slow in his replies, and conqluded the conversation by say- ing, that he had seen the folly of idol-worship, but that he still believed in the religion of his forefathers, and that he intended to remain in his present state. Finding that he could read a little, I sent a New Testament for his accept- ance, expressing my hope that he would read it ; but to the dismay and grief of all, he returned it, saying he had made up his mind to do without it. This was the first and the only instance known, in the history of the island of refusing to accept a book, and it produced no little anxiety in many of his children who attended to Christian instruction. This man was frequently visited by the members of the church, but he lived on in obstinate unbelief until death came upon him ; and the native teacher, speaking of his death, says : " Tira lay ill a long time, and became very unhappy. His mind was light, but his heart was hard. He was full of fear, and trembled continually. He told his children not to follow him in his unbelief; but he died in obstinate un- belief himself." His eldest son became an excellent Christian man, and, •with many of the younger branches of his family, joined the Christian village. Three elderly men of the same class as Tira, received New Testaments, allowed their children to come, without opposition, to the schools, and welcomed the members of the native visiting Association to have Bible-classes and prayer- meetings at their houses; but they never made a public profession of Christianity. One of the wives of these men, however, after a long season of reproach and persecution, induced her husband, who had two other wives, to give her up. He retained two of their children, and she brought THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 163 two with her to the settlement, where she lived with some of her relatives, and became a consistent member of the church. A severe and fatal epidemic was, about this time, brought to the island, and many of the natives were prematurely cut off from the midst of the living., in the prime of life. Among these was Ngatae, one of the teachers; but the joy and pea,ce which he experienced in death, did much to comfort and instruct the people ; not that we needed this..to assure us of his fitness for heaven, for his life had been a perpetual evidence of his faith ; but his dying experience was, at the time, peculiarly appropriate to the afflicted circumstances of the people. His words of consolation to the godly, and his exhortations to the ungodly, were lessons of instruction em- ployed by the Holy Spirit for much good. His last words were : " The billows of death are breaking over me, but my vessel is safe; it is fixed by the anchor which entereth within the vail, where Jesus, our forerunner, is. My heart is fixed, my heart is fixed on him !" CHAPTEE IV, Amasing incident connected with the first rabbit seen hy the natives— » Alarm occasioned by cats being taken to the inland — Practice of tattooing^ and laws respecting it— Conrersion of a native from an exposition of Romans vii. 9— A native's encounter with u shark at sea — Happy results — Third visit to Ivirua — The journey — A ta^® of heathen barbarity — A missionary prayer-meeting — Schools and church of Tamoma — Historical notice of an old native — The mis- sionary's departure from Barotonga — Reflections. We have already had occasion to notice that the people of Mangaia in their heathenism knew no animal largelt than a rat; we have also ohserved their ignorance and superstition on seeing the first pig that was taken on shore. It will be somewhat amusing, and not altogether below the design of these pages, in noticing native habit and character, to give a brief account of the introduction of another animal, which now so largely abounds on the island. On our voyage thither in 1843, we were accompanied by many natives, among whom was a young man who was re- turning from Sidney, whither he had gone as a sailor. This young man was taking home a rabbit; it waa a fine creature, and much thought of by the owner, and by the natives on board. One day while standing on deck, fondling his rabbit, and thinking what notoriety he would gain among his coun- trymen for taking it on shore, the young man waa accosted (164) THE ISLAND Or MANGAIA. ]65 by an elderly man, a friend of his, who was a deacon in the Mangaian church — a man of known piety and integrity, and moreover, honourably connected with the bench of magis- tracy on the island. " Friend," said this worthy man, "that is a pretty creature ; what is its name?" "It is a rabbit," replied the young man, "and," he continued, " they are very numerous in foreign lands." "Numerous, are they ?" replied the old gentleman, " allow me to nurse it awhile." The rabbit was immediately handed over to him, and for some time he continued to stroke its head and back very playfully, and then, in a moment, to the distress (jf all who stood by, he wrung its neck, and cast it into the sea. Astonished and irritated at this unprovoked conduct, I united in condemning it, and in demanding an explanation. But finding myself too much vexed to institute a calm inquiry, I turned aside, leaving the enraged young man to discuss the matter with his friend, who was provokingly easy, and, withal, apparently kind in the midst of the storm of angry words which bore down upon him. Some time afterward I seated myself among them, and asked an explanation, assuring the good deacon that I thought he had done a very wrong act. " Oh no," he re- plied, " it will all be right when we get on shore. I shall report it to the magistrate"; the thing will be justified, and the young man will receive native property more than the value of the animal." " Indeed I" 1 inquired ; " how so ?" " Last year," the old man replied, " a ship came to our land and put on shore two beasts much like that rabbit. At first we were all pleased with them, but very soon they became the plague of the island. They took up their abode in the hills and bush ; and so rapid was their increase, and so ferocious and wild their habits, that they had well nigh de- stroyed all our poultry." " Tell me what kind of beast it was," I asked. " It was much like that rabbit," rejoined 166 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. the old man, who continued his conversation with an ^ir of consciousness that he had done right. " These animals he- came so destructive, that the chiefs and landholders held a council and resolved to hunt them to death, and that no such animal should ever be permitted to be brought on shore." " What do you call it?" I inquired. " We call it Keao," answered the old man. " KSao, K^ao !" I repeated again and again', " what can it be ?" " Oh, it is a real savage beast ! You will soon see it," was the reply. About a fortnight after landing, a terrible uproar was heard at midnight, in the settlement. On making inquiry as to the cause, I saw a multitude of half naked natives armed with sticks and stones, and carrying flambeaux, and was told it was a Keao hunt j and in a short time afterwards, shouts of vic- tory were heard, and the hero of the night was seen return- ing through the settlement, holding up a large cat by the tail ! Yes, it was poor puss ! She had been landed among a people who did not know her quiet domestic habits j circumstances had driven her to the bush, where she had become wild, and had occasioned the grave incidents we have noticed in the island life of the people of Mangaia i The young man to whom the rabbit belonged received pro- perty, by order of the chief, from the public store, which more than remunerated his loss' but which did not oyer- come his regret, that his quiet and pet animal had been mistakenly supposed to have relationship to the cat tribe. Among the many laws made by the people of Mangaia, the one prohibiting tattooing was the occasion of more trouble and annoyance to the police than any other. The natives of this island more generally practised this art, and were more proficient in its execution, than those on the other islands of the group. We had frequently questioned the propriety of imposing a penalty on its practice ; not that we thought its continuance desirable, but from an opinion THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 167 that the individual who tattooed himself committed no puhlio wrong, and that a just sense of propriety induced by a con- tinued course of proper education, would in time do away with the custom. The native authorities, however, who knew the nature and design of the practice, were determined to attach a severe fine to its execution, which occasioned a large majority of the young men of the island to be brought into the criminal court, before the age of twenty ; which doubtless did as much, or even more injury to their moral feelings, than the act for which they were judged. Thus in this, and many other things of which the native code of civil law takes cognizance, the missionary on those islands often finds great opposition in his advice to secure prudence and moderation, and much difficulty in showing the people the difference between rules for the exercise of discipline in the church, and laws for the establishment of order and morality in a general and mixed population : hence the caution necessary in advising tribes just emerging from heathenism about the adoption and enforcement of civil law, lest in some cases they increase and perpetuate the very crimes which they desire to subdue. I well remember an address given by a young man on his admission to church-fellowship, at one of the villages on this island. He said, that between the years of fifteen and twenty, he had often been publicly tried in the criminal court for tattooing, and had been degraded, and heavily fined. At first he felt the degradation most severely, but he after- wards became hardened, until he found himself destitute of any desire for that which was good, and entirely free from shame in reference to that which was evil. Thus he con- tinued to sink deeper and deeper in sin, until one Sabbath afternoon he, thoughtlessly, came to the chapel. A sermon was preached from Romans vii. 9, concerning the spiri- tuality and extent of God's law. " It was then," said the 168 GEMS FEOM THE CORAL ISLANDS. young man, " that I felt for the first time the nature of the law of Grod, — I felt that it was above me, and under me, and around me, and in me-^^all my sins, of hand and heart, came up to my view, and I became as a slain man. At first I desired to die, but I could not. It is this that has driven me to Jesus as my Saviour and refuge : — now I have peace in him. He alone is my joy and trust." In this way the divine efficacy of the gospel most illustriously appears in the moral regeneration of these once degraded tribes ; — translating them from the kingdom of Satan into the king- dom of Christ, which is righteousness, and peace, and joy- At the same church-meeting at which the young man referred to above was admitted, another man, redeemed from among the vilest of the heathen, gave an account of himself; he had been brought to see the error of his way by a different means than his companion, but the nature and effects of the change were the same. Standing before the members of the church, he said : — "Brethren, my heart is wondering at the way by which I have been brought in from my sin, and led to seek fellowship with you. You know that I have been one of the most vile young men in this village. It is true I frequently used to come to chapel, but all I heard there I laughed at, for I loved folly, and after it I ran. But one day, while fishing in my canoe out- side the reef, a shark upset the canoe, and for some time he held my thigh in his mouth ; I had no hope of life ; my pain of body was great, but a shining light burst into my mind — all my former life came up to my view. The shark still held my thigh ; I felt his teeth go to the bone, and expected it to be bitten off by him ; but God had mercy on me. I did not cjy for mercy at the time, for I had nothing but horror and despair in my heart. A companion, who was also fishing, came to my assistance, and helped me on THE ISLAND OP MANQAIA. 169 shore. I lay ill a long time ; many members of the church came to see me, who talked and prayed with me, and led me to see that Jesus was the Saviour I needed. I have given myself to him, — he has led me in among you to-day, and my heart is full of wonder and praise." Again leaving Ivirua in charge of the native teacher, we proceeded to Tamarua ; our path lay over hill and dale, — sometimes we were on the summits of the hills, whence the whole island and the far-extending sea lay open to our view ; at other times we were passing through the dales, which were richly and gratefully shaded with groves of cocoa-nut trees. Our company would have afforded no small amusement to an English spectator. Owing to the badness of the roads, the missionary's wife was borne in a chair on men's shoulders ; the missionary followed, and then came, single file, a motley group of merry natives, carrying our bei and boxes, and other articles necessary for a temporary so- journ in a native reed hut, at Tamarua. As we proceeded on our journey, the old people pointed out to us many spots of renown for heathen cruelty and death. One of these in particular excited our sympathy and grief. It was a small valley, at the foot of two low hills ; on reaching it, an old man, as if awaking from a reverie, exclaimed, "This is a spot of ancient fame, — this was the devil's ground I" We halted awhile, and another of our company related a sad tale of heathen wickedness and sorrow, one would think not often surpassed even in cannibal, savage life. On an occasion of general peace on the island, about six or eight years after the visit of Captain Cook, an aspiring chief, who had been defeated in former wars, conceived a plan of wholesale slaughter, before unknown to the people. Sending his mes- sengers to all the tribes on the island, he gave an unlimited invitation to all, to attend a feast in commemoration of the peace : the day was fixed on j a large quantity of food was 15 170 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. prepared ; and on the morning appointed, an immense number of the people from the different clans came to- gether. An oven of extraordinary dimensions was heated, which consisted of a large, deep hole dug in the ground, filled with stones heated to a red-hot heat. But when all was ready, and each man was about to arrange his food in th^ oven, a host of bloody warriors, belonging to the chief who had given the invitation, rushed forth, at the sound of a preconcerted signal, and, with fiend-like fury, hurried an ■untold number of the visitors into the flames of the oven, and for many days afterwards the sky was literally dark- ened by the ascending smoke of this gigantic funeral pile ! The old man who gave us this account was, at the time it took place, a heathen little boy, but is now a consistent Chris- tian deacon of one of the village churches. " Let us rejoice," he said, addressing those who stood around him, "that those -dark days are passed away, never more to return; the bright Sun of Righteousness has arisen upon us with healing be- neath his wings : let us rejoice in his light and salvation !" On the evening of the day the above was told us, we held a missionary prayer-meeting in the chapel of Tamarua ; and it was indeed cheering to hear the praises and the prayers of those whose fathers had been in the degraded state referred to ; they were sensible that they were indebted to the gospel for all the privileges of their changed condition, and were devoted in their desires, and contributions, and agents, to extend the same blessings to the heathen beyond them. Encouraging progress had been made by the people, at this station, under the teacher's superintendence, since our visit in 1841. The total number of children in daily attendance atthe school was 255 ; and no less than fifty-six men and women had joined the adult classes ; many of whom we were grati- fied to meet as candidates for church-membership. During THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 171 our stay wo admitted some of these to communion, one of whom was the oldest man in the settlement, who, in giving an account of his experience, said : — Listen to me, my brethren ; I am an old man, and, as I have now taken upon me the word of life, I will say a little about my former his- tory. I was born a heathen; my father was .a great warrior, and he was determined that I should be one too. I remem- ber, when I was very young, he frequently led me out to see the bodies of 'the victims he had taken in war, and he taught me to eat human flesh. As I grew older, I was always with my father, — he taught me all the manners and customs connected with idol-worship and heathenism, and he gave me a war-club, and a spear of his own making ; and when he knew I had killed N , of yonder settlement, he was much rejoiced ; a great feast was prepared on the occasion, and afterwards I became wise in all the practices of the priesthood ; and thus my heathen greatness continued to increase until the teachers, the men of Jehovah, came to our land. Some people of Oneroa received them, but we despised them ; I was full of pride and anger towards them, and more than once I led my people to fight against the Christian party. Many of our tribe went to live near the teacher in order to be instructed, but I, and my wives, and our children, remained here, at Tamarua. About three or four years ago, I went to the teacher's village to see my brother ; there I first listened quietly to the meaning of the word of God, and afterwards, Maretu came to preach in this place ; he visited me, and explained to me all about myself • and salvation. I then began to attend the word of God on the day of the Lord, and my mind became enlightened. I felt that my heart was as old in sin as my body was old in years. I have truly been very wicked, but I am now looking to the cross of Jesus. He is my Saviour, — a great Saviour for a great sinner I" And turning to the members of the church, 172 GEMS FEOM THE COEAIi ISLANDS. he said : — " Brethren, in the name of Jesus, receive me as one of his saved ones." It is a pleasing reflection, that most of these natives ad- mitted to church-fellowship during our visits to the island, have remained faithful to their profession. Many of them have died, leaving their characters as bright examples to succeeding generations, in all practical godliness ; and others are now living, the pillars of the church in Mangaia. Returning from Tamarua to Oneroa, the principal station, we prepared for our voyage to Karotonga. An American whaler came to the island, the captain of which offered us a passage thither. It was Sabbath morning when the captain landed ; in the afternoon our arrangements were complete, and I preached a farewell sermon. The large chapel was crowded to excess, by a congregation of more than two thousand natives, who listened with deepest attention to a discourse founded on Eev. iii. 11 : — " Hold fast that which thou hast, that no man take thy crown." The manifest expressions of affection and sympathy of the people were beyond all description : sobs and cries frequently interrupted the service, and the whole circumstances of the day were fraught with gratitude for the past, joy in the present, and hope for the future welfare of these interesting islanders. Nearly three thousand of them accompanied us to the beach, while a few of the most sturdy and expert took charge of our canoe, which was on the boundary reef, and rising with the swelling surf, we were paddled to the boat in waiting, and taken on board the ship. As we sailed away from the island under these circum- stances, our hearts were full of wonder and praise at what our eyes had seen, and what our hands had been permitted to do, in the moral and spiritual elevation of a race of men who, less than a quarter of a century before, were savage, heathen idolaters, and scarcely known to the world; but who THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 173 now, by native teachers' instruction, and occasional visits from the European missionary, had attained a position in intelligence, in morality, in civilization, and in consistency of Christian character, thaf suffered nothing by comparison with missions of older date, or other islands of Eastern Polynesia. The word that Isaiah, the son of Amos, saw, concerning the mountain of the Lord's house, has come to pass : it is exalted on the top of the hills, and all nations flow into it. 15* CHAPTEE V. Another teacher sent to the island — Supply of books in native langnage — ^Appointment of English missionary to Mangaja — His landing in the year 1845 — Native speech on the occasion — Missionary dtuly labours among the people — Reading — Schools-e-Assisting in work — Building new chapel — Native laws respecting foreigners who came to the island — Arrival of two Frenchmen with letter from French con- sul — General statistics of the island, 1845 — Native views of the past and present position of the island — Exhortations — Pleasing state of the mission on the island, January, 1840 The circumstances of the mission on Barotonga in 1844 prevented us from visiting Mangaia that year, but we were happily able to send an excellent native evangelist, Katuki, to occupy Ivirua station. By him we sent 300 copies of the New Testament, 400 copies of Psalms, and other copies of the Old Testament, 1000 Hymn-books, and 1000 ele- mentary books for the schools, all of which, except the New Testaments, had been printed and bound at the Earo- tonga printing office; these were distributed among the people of the three villages, and proved a great blessing, in facilitating the onward progress of the mission on this island. While we have rejoiced in the progress of Christianity and civilization on Mangaia, under the superintendence of native agency, as given in the foregoing details, it must have (m) THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 175 occurred to the reader that the future improyement of the people rendered it desirable that a missionary should be permanently stationed there. Under this impression the Directors of the London Missionary Society about this time appointed the Kev. G-eorge Gill as resident missionary on the island. On his voyage thither, he was detained a few months on Karotonga, and the delighted people of Mangaia, hearing that he was there, wrote a letter to us to hasten his arrival among them, of which the following is an extract, written by Maretu, the native pastor. " Friend, — Your letter has reached us, by which we know that our mission- ary has come from England. We have long prayed for him, and now the church is rejoiced. Great good is growing upon the land, and the church is dwelling in peace. We have prepared to build a house for our missionary, but we are hesitating as to the kind of house he will desire. Do not linger — come speedily ! We send our love to our new missionary and his wife. Do not linger, but come to our May meetings !" On the 19th of July, 1845, the new missionary ship, John Williams, was seen, for the first time, ofi' the island of Mangaia, and had on board the missionary so long desired by the people; vrith a view of introducing him to his sphere of labour, and of rendering him assistance in his new work, we also accompanied him. It was a lovely South Pacific day, and the sea so calm, that the waves broke with more than ordinary gentleness on the reef. We embarked in the ship's boat, and on approaching the land, we heard the shouts of the joyous people, echoed from the coral rocks which form the back ground of the settlement ; Ko te Pai Oromedua teia ! Ko nga tavini o te Atua tela ! Kua tae mai! Kua tae mat ia! ! "It is the missionary ship ! Here are the servants of God ! They are come ! They are truly come !" Rowing the boat near to the reef, 176 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. it was seized by a number of natives, who bore it, and ns in it, to the teacher's house. At a meeting held about two weeks after our landing, for the purpose of giving public welcome to their missionary, the following characteristic speech was delivered by one of the natives. Addressing the people, he said, "Brethren — God is truly a hearer and answerer of prayer. We have prayed to see what we now see this day. God has heard us, and here is our missionary among us. He is going to live with us. But, brethren, do not let us leave oflf praying. Let us ask God to assist him in learning our language ; that is the first thing, and then to assist him to do his work, and then let us seek to be prepared ourselves to receive instruction. Pray also for his wife, and for their child, now so young ; and ask that he may live and become a missionary to our children. We all rejoice that our teacher has come. Now, this is my thought : let us see to it that not one lock of his hair be ruffled, — ^I do not mean by the winds of heaven, — but that his heart be not grieved by any evil conduct on the land, or in the church. Let us go to his house frequently, and inquire of him about things of which we are ignorant, and about the word of God. Remember he is neither an angel, nor a spirit merely — ^that you should not go near him. He is come to live with us, as our brother, companion, and friend. If you see his face, and hear his voice on the Sab- bath only, you will not receive much good. You must be matau, accustomed to him daily, and he to you. Let us praise God for his love to us ! May we remember what I have said ! And may the Holy Spirit prosper our mission- ary in the midst of us !" Surely no language could be more appropriate, or loving, or scriptural than this was under the qsiroumstances of its delivery, and it is suggestive of much that is gratifying and useful. This speech was made on Friday, the first of THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 177 August, and with a view of giving an idea of what mis- sionary work is at such a station, I will transcribe a few notes from my Journal for the month, as they were entered daily : — " August 2. Morning, ^et the parents of a number of children, who were to be baptized on the morrow. Noon, with the deacons of the church, for conversation and ar- rangement of matters about- the church and settlement. Evening, at the church-meeting, for prayer and exhortation." " August 3. Lord's Day. Morning, preached in Oneroa chapel, 2000 persons present. Text, Dan. xxxii. 25, ' Shoes of iron and of brass,' or divine grace appropriate and suffi- cient to daily labour and trial. Afternoon, public admini- stration of the ordinance of the Lord's Supper to more than 300 church-members, in the midst of the great congregation. Evening, united prayer-meeting with native preachers, and their families, in the class-room of our house." " August 4. Morning, at adults' early school. Forenoon, at the children's school. Held a meeting with some of the principal people of the station, who are desirous to build a stone chapel. Noon, assisting in making some alteration in mission-house. The new missionary having brought from England some glass windows. This was the first glass the natives had ever seen, and it caused no little wonder to them. Afternoon, visited one or two sick persons." "August 5. Morning, held missionary prayer-meeting in the chapel ; read to the people letters just received from two of their own countrymen, who are native teachers, on the distant island of Tana. Forenoon, met the teachers of the adult classes. Evening, Bible-class with young men." "August 6. Forenoon, at the children's school. After- noon, a public serviM — preached, John iii. 8, ' The influ- ences of the Holy Spmt in conversion.' Evening, a meet- ing with the visitors of the Christian Instruction Society. 178 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Increased their number for that village from twelve to twenty." " August 7. This morning a monthly prayer-meeting of the teachers of Oneroa schools : 48 male teachers, and 51 female teachers present. Noon, assisting natives in mission- house work, and preparing books for inland stations. EvOi- ing, church-members' Bible-class." " August 8. Attended the teacher's class this forenoon. At noon a schooner arrived off the island, from Tahiti — brought information of the surrender of the Queen, which occasioned much remark and sadness among the people. Afternoon, went to the village of Tamarua; five o'clock, p. M., held public service in the chapel there." " August 9. Morning, attending to the sick ; met candi- dates for baptism, and had private conversation with the deacons of the village. Native teachers' labours had been blessed to the people — schools were well attended — and up- wards of fifty candidates for church-communion." " August 10. Lord's Day. Preached in Tamarua chapel^ More than 700 persons present. Text, Philip, ii. 12, ' Fear and trembling connected with securing salvation.' Afternoon, public service, text, Psalm li. 11, 'Take not thy Holy Spirit from me.' Evening, attended a prayer-meeting in the native teacher's house." " August 11. Attended early morning adult school ; 300 present. Noon, dined with the chief of the village. After- noon, met the deacons, made arrangements to locate a teacher here, whom we had brought from Rarotonga Insti- tution. Evening, visited, with the natives, one or two of the subterranean caverns." "August 12. Forenoon, at children's school — after which selected a singing class of young peopk, — all delighted with brother George's proficiency to teacn them singing : much room for improvement in them — ^but they are diligent and THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 179 ■willing learners. Afternoon, churcli-menibers' candidate class. Evening, church prayer-meeting. Night, met seve- ral young men, who wish to go to Rarotonga Institution." "August 13. Morning, a preaching service — text, Deut. vi. 12, ' Necessary caution while in the possession of privi- leges.' Forenoon, took leave of the people of Tamarua, and journeyed to the village of Ivinia. People gave us a hearty welcome to their resident missionary. Evening, preached from Psalm Ixxxix. 15, ' The blessedness of hearing, and attending to, the joyful sound.' " "August 14. Forenoon, disposing of books to the people. The missionary wives with the girls' school. Afternoon, visited some of the heathen party, to whom reference has been made in former chapters.'' "August 15. Morning, instructing the teachers of the children's schools. Noon, a native teacher came with his proposed bride to make arrangements for their marriage. Evening, conversed with a member who had been suspended from the church for disorderly conduct." "August 16. Forenoon, met the deacons of the church at Ivirua — added an excellent and tried young man to their number. Evening, meeting of the church-members — six candidates admitted." "August 17. Lord's Day, public services were well attended — sermons from Job xlii. 5, 6, ' Knowledge of God necessary to true repentance ;' and from Isaiah v. 20, ' Delu- sions and punishment of sinners.' The young missionary made his first attempt to speak in native language, publicly, by reading the Scriptures, and oiFering prayer." "August 18. Attended children's school, and took our return journey to the settlement of Oneroa." "August 19. Forenoon, had private conversation with •Maretu about texts he had selected for sermons. Noon, a little girl having fallen from a precipice was brought with 180 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. fractured limbs to be dressed. Afternoon, churcli prayer meeting. Evening, yoting men's Bible-class. At night, a little boy was brought, whose stomach, while he was asleep, had been dreadfully mutilated by a savag© pig — ^it was dressed, but the poor fellow died." "August -20. Drawing plans for proposed new stone chapel. Afternoon, married Tangiia the native teacher to Miriama. Evening, preached from text, Gen. xxviii., ' Jacob's journey, trust, and vow.' " "August 21. After attending to children's school, was with natives marking out the foundation of new chapel, 90 feet long, by 62 feet wide, which was partly dug out in the afternoon. Evening, church-members' Bible-class." "August 22. Teachers' classes in arithmetic and geogra- phy. Noon, conversation with candidates. Afternoon, with carpenters who have commenced window and door frames for new chapel. Evening, public service. Night, conversa- tion with one of the native teachers." ' "August 23. Preparation for Sabbath services." "August 24. Lord's Day, large chapel full — subjects of discourse, ' Zeal for God's house,' Neh. ii. 20 ; and Zech. iii. 2, ' A brand plucked from the fire.' Evening, house- hold prayer meeting." "August 27. Public service on the site of the new chapel — ^upwards of 2000 persons present. Brother George gave out a hymn ; I read a portion of Scripture ; Maretu en- gaged in prayer, after which I gave an address. The foundation-stone, in which were placed native books, and writings respecting circumstance and date of the build- ing, was then laid by Numangatini, the chief of the island ; and the services of the day closed with singing and prayer." Such were our daily puWic missionary engagements for the month, and which, with but little variation, occupy THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 181 the time and thoughts of the missionaries now on the island. The native population of Mangaia had been frequently visited by foieigners, some of whom had taken up a tem- porary abode among them ; none, however, had perma- nently resided on the island, except one Frenchman and an American — these had married native females, and, for the most part, had conducted themselves with propriety. Two or three others had also married native females, but after a time ,they had left them and their families, which had occa- sioned no little trouble to the people. Hence the authori- ties of the island made laws to prohibit marriage of native females to foreigners, and also the sale of land. Some little time before we reached the island, 1845, two Frenchmen, and an American who gave himself out to be a Mormon, came to the island from Tahiti. They brought a letter, purporting to be from the French Consul, Tahiti, to the chief, of which the following is a copy : — " Papeete, April 22nd, 1845. " To the chief, and those in power at Mangaia — Blessing on you ! Certain Frenchmen are now going to your land, and the governor desires that you should treat them kindly, and with justice like other foreigners. No evil will be to your land. But if you ill-treat these said foreigners, or any other Frenchmen who may hereafter come to you, evil con- sequences will be to you. Blessing on you I" On their arrival, the strangers delivered the above letter to the chief of the island, and they were treated with courtesy ; but on being assured that the people intended to abide by their law, not to marry their females to foreigners, nor to sell any land, they left the island in the same vessel which brought them. The general statistics of the island in the year 1845 were, 16 182 GEMS rilOM THE CORAL ISLANDS. adult males, 655, adult females, 676. Young persons and children of parents then living, 1789. Young persons and children whose parents were dead, 447, making a total of ■ 3567 population, of whom 1429 were females, and 2138 were males. 500 persons were in church-communion, be- sides whom, there were 600 in adult classes, receiving daily instruction. For the year ending December, 1845, there were on the island 101 deaths, 156 births, 99 baptisms, and 50 marriages. Such was the position of the mission on the island of Mangaia when we left it in charge of the Rev. George Gill, 1845, and returned to Earotonga to resume our labours there ; and, beyond the pleasing features brought out in the above statistics, it is gratifying to remember, that besides supplying a sufficient staff of native agency, for schools and other organizations connected with sustaining the cause of Christianity and education on their own island, the church of Mangaia sent, during a period of ten years, no fewer than thirty-four of its members, male and female, to the Institution on Rarotonga, as native teachers and evangelists to the heathen ! Just before leaving the island we attended a public service at Tamarua, where one of the elders of the people gave an address, in which he unburdened the joy of his grateful heart, in language so appropriate to the circumstances of the island, that a few sentences of it cannot fail to interest the Christian reader. " Brethren," he said, " I am an old man, but to-day I feel young again with joy — the darkness and distress of our heathen life are passed away, — that season was indeed a dreary winter season, but it is past — we now have light, and joy, and peace ; and I have been thinking of one of our prettiest heathen songs, which ex- horted the people to be glad on the approach of spring ; it was as follows : — THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 183 ' The sky is bright, and storms are o'er. The bud and the fruit reward the sower; ■ The birds are ringing, and the trees rejoice. The winter is past ; exalt your voice !' " This," continued the speaker, " was never properly ful- filled in heathenism, but it has now come to pass. This is a season of sunshine. Our storms are now blown away lee- ward. The messengers of God now sing in the land. We have begun to eat the fruit of summer, and a richer harvest of knowledge and love yet awaits us. Let us rejoice I" In concluding his remarks, he said, " But, my friends, in the midst of this joy, I have a little trouble : we have not yet reached the heights to which we aspire, but we are still climbing upwards. Oh, let us not resemble those, who climbing up the hills, hold by the tufts of grass, and sud- denly fall backwards ! I mean, let us not merely hold by ravenga kopapa ua, outward forms, and bodily doings, but let us lay hold of Jesus, as the root of our faith, and then we shall be safe." This good man did hold fast his profes- sion, with consistency and honour, until death introduced him into the joy and purity of heaven, for which he had been prepared on earth by the grace of Jesus, his Saviour. In reporting his first year's progress, and giving a short notice of a new year's service, held the 1st of January, 1846, the missionary says, "The members of the three village churches met this day at Oneroa. Early in the morning they assembled with propriety and delight. I preached from Psalm cxxii. 6, ' Pray for the peace of Jerusalem ;' after the sermon we surrounded the table of communion, in remembrance of our crucified Redeemer. I remembered that formerly these very men lived in enmity, war, and bloodshed, but now they walk together in peace and concord. Many a greyheaded and feeble old man, who had journeyed six miles before morning dawn, in order to be present at the 18-4 GEMS FROM TUE COIIAL ISLATSDS. service, was there; and as their countenances were ani- mated with delight in the service, I wished the churches in England could have been spectators of their joy." Yes, such scenes are incontrovertible evidences of the power of the religion of Jesus ; also of its universal suitability to all the wants of men; — they are its triumph and its glory. Where is the wise ? Where is the scribe ':" Where is the disputer of this world ? Hath not God chosen the foolish things of this world, and the base things of this world, and the things which are despised, to confound the things which are mighty — that in his presence no flesh should glory ? CHAPTER VI. An account of a. devastating hurricane, March, 1846 — The natives rise above their depressing circumstances — Send contributions to London Missionary Society and to Bible Society — Improvement of publio roads round the island — Arrival of missionary ship at the island, 1848 — A joyful and refreshing public service with the natives — An address on the occasion by a native — Opening of a new chapel — Presentchapel and school accommodation on the island — Arrival of English missionary to inland stations — First complete edition of Bible in native language received on shore — Effects of a rain storm — Two men, the last of the heathen families, converted — Death of the first native teacher to the, island — Death of the native who first destroyed the idols of the land — Conclusion.^ The year Thicli commenced so happily, as noticed in the last page of the preceding chapter, was one of severe trial and toil, both to the missionary and to the people on Mangaia. The destructive hurricane of March, 1846, the effects of which we recorded in the narrative of Rarotonga, extended its ravages to Mangaia. Travelling at the rate of about thirty miles an hour, it commenced its fury on this island about four o'clock on the morning of the 17th of March. The missionary and his family were aroused from sleep by the bursting open of all the doors of their house ; the sparkling foam of the billows rolling in/rom the sea, as it dashed on the reef, gave light to the darkness of the night, 16 * ( 185 ) 186 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. and, as dawn of morning appeared, the wind and the sea increased in violence ; the sand brought from the beach by the wind, fell like stones of hail on the settlement, and the whole population was thrown into a state of the utmost confusion. Speaking of this calamity, the missionary says, " Driven from our house, we were supported by natives, for it was impossible to stand without help. Who can describe the anxiety of that hour ! Our dwelling-house was roofless, and the gable end had fallen. The house, in which we kept our stores, was shivered, and rocking, and roofless ; the rain fell in torrents, and we were without shelter, and trembling with cold. The natives gathered around us for comfort and counsel, but I was unable to speak. An awful shriek then rent the air; it rose higher and louder than the roar of winds and waves. The wind had changed, — it had assumed the character of a whirlwind, the roof of every house in the village was caught up by its violence ; trees, either torn up by the root, or broken off, were whirled rapidly, like wheels, in the air. Another gust came, and other houses and the large school house fell. But looking toward the new chapel, in the upper settlement, I rejoiced to see it standing ; but another moment, — and another gust, — it rocked the chapel as a cradle, — the roof was lifted up, entire, in the air, — and the whole building fell !" The mis- sionary saw it fall, and with it he fell to the ground, and for some time remained comparatively senseless. The follow- ing eyening was as calm and serene as the morning had been tempestuous and destructive. Almost every house on the island was destroyed, and at night, the missionary and the natives lay down to rest, but not to sleep : they watched the broad expanse of the starry heavens, and all being peace in the midst of desolation, they endeavoured to comfort them- selves in the promises of God. The succeeding Sabbath was a day of mingled humiliation, THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 187 and prayer, and praise. Amidst the wreck of homes and plantations, and the desolation of the sanctuary, the people sat down and wept. The missionary, as well as he was able, gave a few words of address, and afterwards many of the natives spoke appropriate words of warning, encouragement, and consolation. " Why are we thus ?" inquired one speaker. " Who can tell me ? I ask the sea, and the land, and they reply, — ' It is God.' I ask the ruins of our habi- tations, the havoc on our plantations, and the desolations of our house of prayer, and they answer, — ' This is of God.' The Lord is great, and of great power — ^his ways are un- searchable !" Under these circumstances of trial, all public instruction in schools and classes, was for some months suspended ; but in the mean time temporary chapels were built, and the people rejoiced in the ordinances and rest of the Sabbath. Encouraged by the sympathy and assistance received from England, both they and the missionary, as soon as the planta- tions had been attended to, began to restore their settle- ments ; and only one year. after these afflictions, they gave substantial proof of their interest in, and gratitude to, the London Missionary Society, by sending a contribution of seventy-three pounds to its funds ; and, in addition to fifty pounds to the Bible Society, in 1848 they sent one hundred and twenty pounds to the Missionary Society. Thus, this poor and destitute people, blessed by the labours of the British churches, rejoiced to aid, even in the midst of their troubles, the cause of Him whose love had made them rich in spiritual blessings. In 1847, the missionary, besides attending to other and more important duties, connected with the education of the people, had great pleasure in superintending the making of a public road round the island ; the old paths were bad, and frequently crossing the tare swamps were often impass- 188 GEMS PROM THE CORAIi ISLANDS. able. The settlement also of Tamarua, formerly situated in an unhealthy valley, was removed to a higher site. These, and other sanitary improvements, if done at all, had to be looked after by the missionary, and in return for such labours, he had much gratification in witnessing the con- tinual advance of the islanders in things essential to their civilization. In May, 1848, the John Williams reached Mangaia, on her second voyage from England. The natives had long anticipated her, and were desirous to have a religious service on shore with the captain, crew and the missionaries who were bound to stations westward : this desire was now gra- tified, and the day will live long in the remembrance of all who were present. At an early hour the company came on shore : the morning service was conducted in the usual manner; but in the afternoon, Captain Morgan gave an account of the missionary voyage, and of the continued sympathy of friends in England towards the islands of Poly- nesia. Mamoe, a Samoan teacher, who was returning from England, quite electrified the delighted people, by giving an account of what he had seen and heard; — the wonders of the far-distant country — the love of the churches to the heathen — and other things connected therewith, were spoken of with emotions of unspeakable joy and gratitude. When so excited as unable to express himself in language, he used gesticulations, which frequently continued for many minutes; for instance, wishing to convey his idea of the extent of British love, he silently exhorted his hearers, by the movement of his hands, to trace the extended circum- ference of the horizon, which could be seen from the chapel, stretching far away beyond the sea ! At the conclusion of Mamoe's address, Meduaarutoa, an elder deacon, spoke. He commenced his remarks by exclaiming, — " Behold, what manner of love the Father hath THE ISLAND OF MANGAIA. 189 bestowed on us ! Never has this land seen the like of this before. Here are our brethren from England ; formerly we had fellowship with them in prayer and thought only, but to-day we have so in body. We are all the children of God — there is no diflference ; they and we are all the same — we and they are children of God. I have now a thought which makes me wish to die soon, that I might see my brethren who have died, even from the time of Moses ; for we and they, and they and we, are the children of our Father who is in heaven. My heart is large when I look upon our brethren and sisters from Britain. I shall only see them to- day in the flesh, but I shall soon die, and then I shall see them again with Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob." At this meeting, Christian brethren from England, and Tahiti, and Barotonga, and Aitutaki, and Atiu, and the distant islands of Samoa, met together : missionaries, native teachers, native deacons, and the members of the several native churches on the island, were united in Christian fellowship, who, twenty years before, were not only ignorant of each other, but who, for the most part, were a heathen and an idolatrous people ! Three years after the devastations of the hurricane to which we have referred, the natives of Mangaia had rebuilt their house of prayer, at the principal station. It was ninety-six feet long and sixty-six feet wide, having an end gallery, and would seat upwards of two thousand persons. The opening services of this noble stone building formed a pleasing era in the history of the island, especially after the destruction of their former chapel. Two sermons were preached, one by a native pastor, and another by the mis- sionary. Past suiferings and trials were for the time for- gotten; the promises of a faithful God were experienced, and the house was filled with his glory. The present chapel, and school accommodation on the island 190 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. may be estimated by the following figures : — tTiere are six large, substantial, stone buildings, the walls of which are three feet thick ; the three chapels, called Barbican, Bethel, and Beulah, measure unitedly 248 feet long, by 158 feet wide; and the three school-houses measure 211 feet long, by 114 feet wide. ■•The people of the inland settlements on Mangaia had long been desirous to secure the permanent residence of a European missionary among them, and at a meeting held in 1848, they, through the missionary at Oneroa, resolved to write to the directors of the London Missionary Society, on the subject. Finding their call not acceded to as speedily as they wished, they said, " Write again ; ask how much property we shall send to England to buy a missionary; for we will buy one, and will feed him, and pay him." Consi- dering the isolated position of this island, and with a view to assist the brethren on Earotonga in visiting the other islands of the group, the directors acceded to the importu- nate request of this interesting people, and appointed the Kev. Wyatt Grill to the station ; who, after a voyage of seven months and a half in the John Williams, lauded on Man- gaia, on the 1st of March, 1852. Long before the arrival of the vessel, the natives had been expecting it, and were looking forward with pleasure to re- ceive by it the complete edition of the Bible in their lan- guage; so great was their desire to obtain this boon, that many of them brought payment for volumes some months before the ship came. The length of time that elapsed, ex- cited their worst fears and doubts respecting its coming at all. Some said, "Surely Barokoti (Buzacott) is dead." Others thought, " The Society could not finish the work." At length, however, all their apprehensions were put to flight ; the missionary ship came, and for two days many able-bodied men were engaged in bringing the boxes over THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 191 the reef, with the greatest spirit of zeal and delight. It was with difficulty they could be restrained from breaking open the boxes, in order to see the whole Bible; and when a copy was held up before them, they gave utterance to their feelings in a loud and long continued shout of joy and pleasure. A box of the sacred volumes was then taken into the chapel, and after praise and prayer, they were distributed to the people. At a subsequent missionary prayer-meeting, an aged disciple, addressing the assembly from Job v. 17 — 19, said : — "I have often spoken to you from texts out of other parts of the Bible than those which we had, but this is the first time we have seen the' book of Job, in our own language. It is a new book to us. When I received my Bible, I never slept until I had finished this book of Job. I read it all. Oh, what joy I have felt in the wonderful life of this good man ! Let us read these new books — let us go to the missionary and inquire into their meaning; let us be at his door before he rises ; let us stop him when we meet him, that he may tell us about these new words." And lifting up his Bible before the whole congregation, he continued, " My brethren and sisters, this is my riSsolve. The dust shall never cover my Bible, — the moths shall never eat it, — the mildew shall never rot it ! My light ! my joy!" The Rev. Wyatt Grill, soon after landing on the island, was stationed at Tamarua, and in speaking of the people, he says, " that he could hardly realize the fact, that they had been in former years nurtured in superstition and idolatry : during the first year of his labours, seven members were admitted to the village church, and six went to the Raro- tonga Institution, for the education of native teachers. In the midst, however, of his successes, his ardent spirit had to pass through a trial of patience and labour, in the efl^ects of 192 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. a rain-storm, whioli deluged the low grounds of Ha station, in February, 1854. At midnight, a mountain torrent swept through the village, situated on the upper ridge of the island ; and rushing down to tJie plantations in the valleys, devastated the whole of the district. But although these trials, and others of a more seriou^ nature, often oppressed the heart of the missionaries, yet receiving strength from on high, they rose above them ; and, resuming their labours, they are now cheered with growing success. Very recently two of the la^ of the heathen party, aUuded to in former chapters, were brought in from the folly of their ways, to place themselves under Christian instruction. One of them had often said, " My father lived and died a heathen, and I wish to live and die as he did." Much, however, to the surprise of the missionary, who had frequently visited him, when the Bibles were being sold he came to purchase', one fdr himself. " Is it true that you are come for a Bible ?" , inquired the missionary. " Yes, it is true ; my thoughts are now very different from what they were formerly. Let you and me talk together, and I -will tell yon all." He was found to be deeply affected with his past conduct, — ^his con- scienle was awakened ; he sought peace, and became one among those who inquire vfha,t they must do to be saved. Another case is that of an aged man, who, for many years, was an officiating priest in heathenism. On listening to a sermon from Jer. vi. 4, " Woe unto us ! for the day goeth away, for the shadows of the evening are stretched out," he was seen to be much interested, and it led to the redemption of his soul. Feeble and infirm, he now often comes to the house of his spiritual teacher, for conversation and instruction. His snow-white head, and eye dim with age, carry the thoughts back to a period when he, in his darkness, vainly directed his fellow-oountiymen to dumb ndoh and to superstitious rites, in order to obtain peace. THE ISLAND OF MANQAIA. 193 The history of such a man, embracing, as it does, some forty years of heathen life, and twenty years of opposition to the gospel, and afterward, some few years of gradual and effec- tual opening of his heart to receive Jesus, as his Lord and Saviour, is indeed a history of interest and wonder, that will, in eternity, reveal to us the amazing sin and depravity of man, and the over-abounding power and love of Grod, which passeth knowledge. In bringing our missionary notices of this island to a close, we cannot do so more appropriately than by recording the happy death of the honoured teacher who introduced the gospel to the people ; and also that of the native who first destroyed the idols of the island, and was instrumentally the cause of the overthrow of the whole system of heathenism. The father and founder of this mission was Davida, who, it will be remembered, landed here in 1824. During the whole period of his missionary life, he had been a consistent, active man. In his last illness he delighted to contrast what Mangaia now is, with what it was, when he came to its heathen people; and one day, speaking to the missionary with all humility of his labours, he inquired, " Is it right for one to adopt the language of Paul, and say, ' I have fought the good fight ; I have finished my course' ? These people were wild beasts when I came among them, but the sword of the Spirit subdued them. It was not I; it was Grod who did it." At another time, he dwelt with much anxiety on the passage, " Lest that by any means, when I have preached the gospel to others, I myself should be a castaway." While disease was making rapid inroads upon his body, a beloved daughter died, after which he sunk fast. " Do you really know that this is the hand of death on you ?" asked the missionary. " I know it," was his reply. " This is the messenger — I shall soon go ;" and seizing the missionary's hand, as if resigning the earthly charge which 17 194 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. he had so honourably sustained, he said, with much anima- tion and emphasis, " I go to God, and to Christ ! Oh ! what life ! Oh ! what joy !" Thus his body died : devout men carried it to its burial, and made great lamentation over it, but his spirit entered into honour, glory, and immortality ! This good man landed on Mangaia in 1824, when idol- atry and heathenism were rampant in every district, and the whole population was a race of the most haughty, despotic, cruel savages, of all the tribes of Eastern Polynesia. He died in 1849 ; just five-and-twenty years after he commenced his missionary labours ; and was honoured to see the com- plete and universal spread of Christianity on the island. 500 members were in consistent church communion ; 1600 children and adults were under daily instruction ; and, be- sides the evangelists gone to the heathen islands, almost 3000 miles away, there were more than one hundred native teachers in the schools, willingly and gratuitously employing themselves in teaching the generation, rising up to fill the places of their fathers ! * Davida, the teacher, is now united in glory with hie old friend Meduaarutoa, who was formerly a heathen priest and warrior, and was the first man on the island who embraced Christianity. For nearly thirty years he was one of the most zealous and devoted fruits of the gospel among the people of Mangaia ; as a deacon and" class teacher, he was most efficient ; and his occasional exhortations were always characterized with intelligence', power, fervour, and energy. During his last illness, his enlightened confidence in the love and merits of his exalted Saviour was cheeringly ex- plicit. The emphatic motion of his emaciated hand, and the reanimation of his dying eye, as he said, " I know in whom I have believed," were satisfactory and encouraging. His hope of a glorious resurrection was unclouded, and his joy in death often excited him into ecstatic expressions of heavenly gratitude and praise. THE ISLAND OP MANGAIA. 195 Oil ! it is joyous to realize that Davida, and Meduaarutoa, and Barima, and Meduaauti, and Ngatae, and Tairi, and Simiona, and an untold number of other Mangaia worthies, are now among the saints in light — having learnt more fully, and are still learning, the mysteries of that mana, e te aroa, power and love in salvation, of which they were wont to talk on earth. And it is no less encouraging to remember^ that there are now living, Numangatini, and Rokoia, and Sadaraka, and Ata, and Zacharia, and Katuki, and others, who by their faith, patience and labours, are consistently discharging. the duties of life; are holding honourable in- tercourse with the foreigners who call at their shores ; and are sowing the seeds of Christian example and educa- tion, which, by God's blessing, shall spring up, and perpet- uate and extend the triumphs of the gospel for generations to come. Even so, Lord ! And, " Let the whole earth be filled with thy glory. Amen and Amen." THE ISLAND OF AITUTAKI. CHAPTEE, I. Aitutaki, the third island of the group in size and population — The first visited by the Christian teacher — Mission commenced, 1821 — Suc- cess of native teachers — Complete overthrow of idolatry — The Camden, mission ship, visits the island, 1839 — Location of Rev, H. Royle on the island — "Wanton act of cruelty by a captain of an Eoglish ship — Fears of the people — Inconsistency and laxity in marriage — Evils of divorce — Evils arising from betrothmeut of children — Missionary fidelity and consequent troubles — Eucounige- ment in schools — Chapel burnt down by a disaffected party — Chnpel rebuilt — An attempt to set the whole settlement on fire — New chap- el destroyed — Missionary's life threatened — Successful issue of faith, patience, and labour. The Rarotonga. island of Aitutaki is situated 150 miles north of It is a small island enclosed within a barrier reef, which, towards the south, is nearly seven miles from the beach. The land itself is a fertile little garden, rich in every variety of tropical fruit, and its interesting people are now amongst the best educated, and most orderly of all the inhabitants of the Hervcy group of islands. Although (196) THE ISLAND OF AITUTAKI. 197 the third island in the group in size and population, it was first to receive the messengers of Christianity ; and although in its subsequent history it raised much opposition to the purity of practical godliness, yet in later years it has pro« duced, and is still yielding, some of the brightest gems of Christian character to be found in the native churches. In the year 1821 the Kev. J. Williams visited Aitutaki. The natives who came off to. his vessel were the most wild and savage he had ever seen. Some of them, he says, were tattooed from head to foot; some were painted with pipe- clay and ochre, others were smeared all over with charcoal ; and all were dancing and shouting in their canoes, in such a frantic manner, as quite bewildered and surprised the good man's heart, — ^for these Aitutakians were the first heathens Williams had then seen. The chief of the island came off to the missionary ship, and there he heard the strange tale of the total destruction of idols and idol worship on Tahiti — the overthrow of the dominion of Tangaroa, and of Kongo, and of Oro, gods well known and wor- shipped by the people of Aitutaki. He was also told of the word and knowledge of the true God by which this revolu- tion had been brought about, and was asked if he would receive on shore, and give his protection to native teachers, who had come from Tahiti, in order to instruct him and his people. Most marvellous to relate, the chief not only offered no opposition, but with much willingness and desire gave an affirmative to the inquiries of the missionaries : yea, on having the teachers introduced to him, he seized them with delight, and by the ceremony of rubbing noses, which con- tinued some time, he gave them a hearty welcome. Thus, having gained an entrance to the people, Papehia and his companion Vahapata commenced the work of teaching Christianity to the people of Aitutaki. Twelve months after- 17 » 198 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. wards, another native evangelist was sent to the island, who took with him a supply of books in the native language, and some school material ; good progress had been made against the old institutions of idolatry and heathenism, but the people were evidently afraid to destroy their idols — lest some great calamity should befall them. " Tell the missionary to come to ns," they said to the messenger who was about to return to Raiatea, " tell the missionary to come, and we will then burn our idols, destroy their temples, and give ourselves to learning the word of God." With a view to encourage the teachers, and hoping to gain access to other islands of the group, the missionary returned to Aitutaki in the second year of its missionary history, and to his great surprise he found that most of the idols had been destroyed, that the profession of Christianity was general, that not a single idolater remained on the whole island, and, that a chapel 200 feet long had been built by the people, for the worship of the true God ! Novel, romantic, and almost incredible, is the tale of triumph effected by the labours of these native teachers, as recorded by Williams; but it was true, all true, and we have in the former details of these pages witnessed the same thing over and over again, leading us to exclaim, "It is not by might, nor by power, but by thy Spirit, Lord ! It is thy doing, and is marvellous in our eyes." For eighteen years, however, after the introduction of the gospel, this island was left without the superintendence of a resident missionary — occasional and hurried visits were paid by some of the fathers of the Tahitian mission, as we have seen was the case on Mangaia ; but its distance from that group, and the urgent duties of stations there, which were only then in their infancy, rendered it impracticable for those missionaries to leave home, and withal, there was no missionary ship then, in which to visit the islands, but THE ISLAND OF AITUTAIil. 199 Toyages had to be undertaken in small, uncertain, trading vessels, and at a large expense. In the year 1838 the brig Camden was given, by the churches in England, to this work, and in 1839 she reached the islands, having on board the Rev. H. Koyle, who most praise-worthily, and in the spirit of self-denial and devoted- ness to the welfare of the natives, willingly adopted the life of a solitary missionary on the lone island of Aitutaki. He was accompanied thither by the Eev. A. Buzacott, who rendered him much assistance in getting an introduction to the people. Just before the arrival of the missionary ship - at Aitutaki, however, the natives had been much harassed and annoyed by the unjust and cruel conduct of a captain of an English ship, which caused them to look with suspicion on the Camden, as she approached their shores. The captain referred to, had brought home a native sailor, whose wife and family were still living, and who did not wish again to return to sea; this much displeased the captain, and he determined to be avenged of the authorities, who could not see it their duty to interfere in the matter. A substitute for the sailor was provided, who was being taken off to the ship, but before he could reach it, the irri- tated man came near the reef, and opened fire with his guns on the island. The first' shot, striking the shore, bounded, and, proceeding in the direction of the chiefs house, struck a branch of a cocoa-nut tree, and was stopped by a large tree only within a few yards of the spot where the chief and a number of his household were sitting in con- sultation. The affrighted people hastened their flight to an inland fastness, but while ascending the hill, a second shot was "fired over the village, which providentially missed its mark, and entered into the side of the hill, some two feet deep. Not knowing the mission ship on its approach to the island, the morning "ftfter the above affair, the people supposed it 200 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. to be their enemy, and when the brethren landed, they found many of them assembled in the chapel, holding a prayer meeting, who were prepared for an immediate flight, should another attack be made on their village. Nothing could be more wanton than this conduct, and nothing more reprehensible : the captain had been on shore some days — trading with the natives, who were honest and obliging to him, and with whom the afiair, of which he felt aggrieved, might have been honourably adjusted. Besides this calamity, not the best adapted to secure for the foreign missionary a kind reception, the greater portion of the natives themselves were found to be in a state of social and domestic disquietude. Many inconsistencies of opinion and practice had grown upon the teachers — ^foreign sailors, disaffected to missionary purposes, had entered into family relationship with some of the clans ; and while the early teachers of this island had succeeded in inducing the people generally to observe the marriage form and vow, in opposition to the loose immoralities connected with their heathen life, yet, both the form and the vow were alike in- effectual in securing that sacred ordinance from profanation, inasmuch as the chief had introduced, and the teachers had sanctioned, a system of divorce, which was so lax, that a man might marry one day, and upon the most trivial excuse, be sanctioned by law to break the marriage vow on the next. Moreover, and beyond these evils, the heathen system of betrothment of children in their infancy was allowed not only to remain, but practically was recognized and joined to the forms of Christianity instituted on the island. Scarcely on any island left to native teachers have we known so many trying evils to have prevailed. There were, happily, many fine exceptions to this character, but such was the condition of the mass of the people, that the first few years of mis- sionary labour among them were years of pain, persecution, and jeopardy. THE ISLAND OF AITUTAKI. 201 The missionary was called upon in the midst of these evils to " set his face as a flint," and to publish the require- ments of the gospel, " whether the people would hear, or whether they forbore." In -the schools, in his public preach- ing, and in the church, he felt himself to be set for a wit- ness against the sins of the people, and sought grace from his Divine Master, to enable him to bear the severe trials to which he was sure such a course would expose him. Writ- ing at this time, he says : — " My situation, owing to these matters, has lately been so trying, that but for daily grace to abide by my determination to speak the truth, and to secure peace only by reformation, I should long ago have been thrown off my balance, and have abandoned myself to despair. It would be easy to render myself popular, and to secure the applause of the populace, but I must not com- promise. I see in the first missionaries of the cross, how they excluded from their consideration the principles of expediency, and how boldly they acted upon the principle of indifference alike to the frowns and the favour of men." Acting out these high, holy principles, the missionary, in the midst of such moral evil and lax government by which he was then surrounded, soon found the whole community, with but few exceptions, set on fire against himj some even who professed sympathy and attachment employed the basest means to slander his reputation, to misrepresent his motives, and to fan the prejudice and discontent of the mob into a devouring flame. It is really astounding to witness the heights to which the wickedness of these tiitfes was per- mitted to rise. The chief and people, at the instigation of white men living on shore, even summoned the missionary to appear before their tribunal, to disprove, if he could, statements made by them respecting his character, office, and the objects of his mission. This was no doubt done to give an appearance of truth to the falsehoods they chose to 202 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. circulate among the people, for they doubtless knew that the missionary would treat such a summons with the disregard it deserved. Wickedness had now gained a triumphant position, it reigned over and ruled the entire populace, so that with a view to induce the missionary to leave the island, a deputa- tion of the most influential men waited on him, and stated plainly that they needed no missionary to reside amongst them, that there was nothing new to be learnt, and that the sooner he left the island the better ! But encouraged by a faithfiil and sympathizing few, in whom he could repose entire confidence, and receiving as- sistance from on high, he heeded but little the opposition he must have felt so keenly. He saw their ignorance, he mourned over their folly, and according to strength given him, he addressed himself to the real duties of his work. With all Christian affection he preached the practice as well as the doctrines of Christianity; with a view to train up a tiseful class of teachers for the schools, he met for daily instruction a number of young men and women, of good ability, and who were desirous to be taught, and before the end of his first year on the island, he had the pleasure of seeing a school of no less than 220 children in regular at- tendance : but as order and discipline were introduced, this number was soon lessened ; still, however, it became evident that good principles and purity were gaining ground. Daily instruction and example, without being too contentious with the wicked^ introduced light and power to the community, and a check was given to previously advancing evils. But the victory of truth was not yet : further struggles awaited both it and its votaries. The solitary missionary, with his wife, had retired to rest one beautiful moonlight night, when the sea-breezes were sweeping overland with more than usual freshness. On a THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 203 sudden a furious yell of many mingled voices was heard from the settlement, and the elements were lighted up with a fierce lurid glare; the missionary, in deepest anguish of spirit, and fear for personal safety, hastened to ascertain the cause. Alas ! alas ! the large chapel of the village was in flames, and in a few hours it was entirely reduced to ashes ! The reader will do well to realize, as far as he can, the bodily danger, and mental anguish of a lone missionary in such a situation, on a small island not fifteen miles in cir- cumference, and no other land in sight across the vast ex- panse of sea by which it is surrounded. The destruction of the chapel was intended as a threat to the missionary, but still, faithful to his trust, he continued to preach to the ungrateful people. The following Sabbath was a day of distress to the few who were anxious to receive Christian in- struction. On the sea-beach, under the shade of the cocoa- nut trees, a congregation was assembled, and the words of gospel warning and admonition were delivered; and for awhile the passions of the disaffected subsided. Availing themselves of this temporary peace, and protected by the arm of native law, which was now enforced for the punish- ment of all persons detected in wantonly disturbing the peace, the Christian party rebuilt their chapel ; thus encou- raged, the missionary continued his labours, and although he was much opposed, yet the numbers of his attached friends increased. Not many months, however, had passed away, when one night, during the rage of a violent thunder-storm, the con- tinued and vivid lightning of which gave the surrounding sea an appearance of an ocean of boiling blue flame — in the midst of these raging elements the house of the chief judge was set on fire, and the whole settlement was thrown in im- mediate confusion, which had scarcely subsided before an- other large house in a different part of the station was seen 204 GEMS FROM THE COBAL ISIANDS. to be in tlie same condition. Tells of destruction vocife- rated from a thousand voices, mingled with cries for retalia- tion ; and nothing but the presence and the advice of the missionary prevented the whole population from rising up that night, in general war, and revenge on each other, which would have been alike ruinous to the mission, and fetal to the future welfare of the island. From this time, for some months, every week witnessed repeated deeds of daring outrage on the habitations of the party, who, although persecuted, continued to increase in number and attachment to the cause of Christianity ; and had it not been that a night guard was kept around the missionary's house, it also would, no doubt, have shared the fate of others. In the midst of all these disasters, the Christians built a large new chapel of lime and wattle-work, capable of con- taining more than a thousand people. This building was opened with thankfulness and joy, but not without some apprehensions for its safety. Sabbath after Sabbath the forenoon service was well attended, and the evening service gave indications of an improved state of feeling in reference to the cause of truth and order. But alas ! many months had not passed by, before one night, this new building was also in flames. The mis- sionary, in his desire to save it, if possible, from total de- struction, hastened to the spot, and had only time to escape, when the roof fell in with an awful crash, and long before the morning light had dawned, the newly erected house of prayer was a ruin ! Suspended on a tree, near where the chapel stood, there was found a notice written on paper, in the Tahitian lan- guage, using the most violent threats against the Christian party ; asserting that it was of no avail to continue theii attempt to secure peace, that those who had set fire to the THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 205 chapel had vowed destruction to the missionary's house, and also to murder him. Under these trying circumstances, it was supposed that, the missionary would leave the island — a number of the chiefa and landholders waited on him to know his intention, to whom he replied, " that he had no intention whatever of leaving them : but that, by the help of Grod, he meant to abide by the end of the persecution, whiCtever that might be." For some time afterward, public services for worship and instruction were held in the open air ; and by these and other means, the missionary gave himself wholly to educating those adults and children who were disposed to attend the schools. A few of the ringleaders of the la+e troubles were detected, and one of them was banished the island : faith, and patience, and self-denying labour had their beneficial influence on the people, and although the trials of this station continued numerous and severe, yet the missionary and his faithful few were able to rise above them ; and in the subsequent chapters of this narrative, it will be our pleasing task to notice the many and substantial tokens of God's favour which now rest upon them, and which dis- tinguish the present inhabitants of Aitutaki for intelli- gence, order, activity, and Christian character, not to be excelled on any island in the Pacific Ocean. In weakness they have been made strong, — and they are now more than conquerors over their enemies, through Him, whose name was their tower and joy, in the day of their calamity. 18 CHAPTER II. Effects of a storm on the island — Many of the most abandoned characters reclaimed — Deaths of some of the missionary's early native friends — ninesa of the missionary's wife — Visit to Karotonga — Mutual re- joicing of the natives of both islands — A speech of an Aitutakian— State of the island in 1846 — Some reasons why a mission ship is needed for the islands — Missionary's ill treatment on board a ship — His danger — Another voyage — Misconduct of seamen — A vessel wrecked on the reef of the island — Disorder introduced on shore by the crew — European missionaries for some time required at stations visited by ships— The .mission advances — Pleasing instance of a young Christian. After about twelve months^ prosperity, the island of Aitutaki was laid prostrate by a hurricane j the sea rose far above its usual bounds; large trees, which had apparently stood for ages, were torn up by the roots ; many houses were destroyed ; two chapels and school houses were blown down, and the food plantations were entirely devastated. So scarce was native provision after this calamity, that many of the people had to subsist on the roots of various shrubs and trees — which are only resorted to in extreme cases of famine ; but while in the midst of these troubles, the heart of the missionary was cheered and encouraged by an in- gathering to the church of God, of some- of the most wicked and abandoned characters on the island. No fewer (206) THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 207 than fourteen of such were in one year convinced of sin, and enlightened in Jieart, who by a consistent Christian life and conversation, proved the genuineness of the change which they professed to have undergone. Two of these had been special ringleaders in the destruc- tions noticed in the preceding chapter, and had sought to destroy the life and the property of the missionary. In speaking of them, the rewarded Christian teacher says, " I shall not soon forget the emotions with which the members of the church listened to their confessions of sin and guilt; and from my own eyes, I am not ashamed to confess, they drew copious floods of tears." These converts learned to read well, and one of them became a useful teacher in the boys' school ! This class of natives, it will easily be ima- gined, were looked upon by the missionary with peculiar interest. In the days of their ignorance, when they little understood the benevolent intentions which actuated him, or the genius of the gospel which he taught, they had done many evil deeds ; but now they were as docile as they were formerly wild, as truthful as they were formerly deceitful, and as useful as they were formerly injurious. About this time the missionary was called to mourn over the death of many who had been amongst his faithful and unwavering friends from the commencement of the mission; but it was his joy to see such gathered into the garner of the Lord, as corn fully ripe. One of these was an impor- tant individual on the island, — a chief, of considerable rank : his natural disposition was proud, hasty, and resentful; but he had become humble, forbearing, and kind. When near death, the missionary asked him if he thought he had done anything to merit eternal life. His only reply was " a flood of tears which accompanied a most emphatic negative shake of the head ;" and afterwards, he said, " Neither is there salvation in any other, for there is no other name under 208 GEMS FROM TEUE COEAL ISLANDS. heaven given among men whereby we must he saved. This was the last time he spoke so as to be upderstood. He died in peace, a trophy of redeeming grace, and entered into the rest and glory of the people of God. In the month of May, 1843, we visited this island, and saw the early fruits of Mr. Royle's devoted labours. "We hud heard much of the improvement of the islanders, but the half had not been told us. In the settlements and houses, the persons and manners of the natives, we were pleased to see the total absence of every thing which characterized their former savage rudeness. The schools received the daily personal attention of the missionary ; and upwards of one hundred members were united in church communion ; in whose lives the principles of Christianity were exemplarily illustrated. The health of the missionary's wife now failed ; and relief from labour, with change of air and circumstances, was deemed essential to her recovery ; but the visits of whalers and merchant ships to this beautiful, yet lonely spot, were uncertain, and a passage in them expensive ; the natives, therefore, built a small schooner, with a view to bring her to Rarotonga. Happily, however, before it was completed, a kind-hearted American captain called at the island, and, by giving the mission family a passage in his ship, relieved their anxieties. Many of the natives followed their teacher to Barotonga, and there had intercourse with native Christian brethren, of whom they had often heard, but had not had much inter- course subsequent to the first year of the mission on the islands. During their stay at Rarotonga it was pleasing to see Papehia and Tapaeru, and these Aitutakian worthies, often grouped together, talking of. the incidents of their early life, and especially remembering those facts of their history which we have recorded in the narrative of Raro- THE ISLAND 01" AITUTAKI. 209 tonga. At a public meeting, held to give ■welcome to the strangers, one of the Aitutakians, an old man, addressed the assembly as follows : — " Brethren, — Let us praise God that we, who once lived in idolatry on Aitutaki and Karo- tonga, are now worshippers of Jehovah, the true God. Oh the love of God ! How great it is ! Let us rejoice that we are met together to-day to talk about that love. We have been brought across the soft path of the sea, and now in this house of prayer, we look at each other with wonder. We, the old people, know the dreadful state from which we have been redeemed. Let us talk to-day ; do not let tht young men speak ; but let us old men rise up and tell what the evangelia a Jesu has done for us. Brethren, my heart is full. Suppose we at Aitutaki had built a vessel in our heathenism and had come to you. How should we have been treated ? What would have been the result ? We should have been murdered, and you would have taken our property and ship as your own. But how different is it with us now ! We are safe, our property is safe, and you call us brethren ! All this comes out of the love of God. The great sea we have crossed is become a sea of love ; the air we breathe is full of love ; from the top of the mountains, down to the belt of the lowland, is all encircled with love ; the church of Aitutaki is come to salute the church at Rarotonga, and you have embraced us in love. Brethren, let us praise God ; he is the author of this." These delighted and grateful people returned to their own island home refreshed in heart, and strengthened for the dis- charge of its civil, social, and Christian duties. In the year 1846 we again visited them, and whilst there were still trials and anxieties connected with the discharge of missionary work, yet nothing was more palpable than the advance which the people had made in every department of general know- ledge and practical Christianity. We had not been long on 18 « 210 GEMS FEOM THE CORAL ISLANDS. shore when a native came to invite us to dine at his house. On inquiring the occasion of the feast, we learnt that he had just finished building a stone house for himself, aud that, according to their practice, he wished to have a religious service of prayer, praise, and exhortation there, before he and his family took up their abode in it. Accompanied by Mr. Eoyle, we went to this service, and were highly pleased with every portion of it. In the afternoon of the same day, we held a public missionary meeting in the chapel of the largest settlement. It was a fine stone building, and 1800 persons were present ; Rev. T. Heath gave an account of the Tahitian mission ; the Rev. G*. Stal- worthy gave an account of his long residence on the Mar- quesa islands ; others spoke of our projected voyage -to Western Polynesia j and many of the natives encouraged each other to prayer and contributions for the sending the word of Grod to heathen lands. With a view to show the importance of having a ship in those seas exclusively devoted to the service of the mission, we will narrate a fact or two connected with missionary voyages from island to island in other ships. The missionary had on one occasion been waiting some time on a neighbour- ing island an opportunity to be conveyed to Aitutaki. At length one occurred ; and agreeing to give a fair remunera- tion, it was gladly embraced; but it was attended with circumstances of discredit to the captain, and danger to the missionary, which had a most injurious effect on the minds of the natives. Insult was added to unkindness by the parties on board towards the man and his family, who were devoting themselves for the welfare of the islanders, and who, apart from spiritual blessings conveyed by his instruc- tion, was training them to hojd honest and kind commercial relations with captains and crews of every nation that might call at their island home. Arriving off the entrance into "THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 211 the lagoon, they found the sea so much troubled as to render landing almost impossible. Uncomfortable, however, as cir- cumstances were on board the ship, yet, for the sake of life, the missionary proposed to lay off until the next day ; this being opposed, he signified his willingness to be taken on to the port whither the vessel was bound, but this also was for- bidden, and he was reluctantly compelled to descend into the boat, and to attempt a landing. On reaching the reef, the surf was rising so high, and its foam so great, that another effort was made to prevent what appeared, to be a most presumptuous act : pointing towards the direction of the break in the reef, through which the boat had to pass, " Do you think you can enter now you see the real state of the sea?" inquired the missionary, who was tremblingly anxious for the sake of his wife and children, who were with him in the boaj;. " I mean to try," was the answer of the man who had charge of the boat; and instantly he ordered the crew to pull smartly, but a mighty billow swept half across them, their oars were as useless as straws, and, gun- wale deep under water, they were taken many yards out to sea. " Take us back to the ship," the missionary Said ; " we dare not make another attempt to land in the present state of the surf." " I will not detain the ship," was the reply ; " You must land I" By this time a numerous body of natives had come to the reef, some of whom swam off to the boat, and, finding that the captain had made up his mind not to wait a few hours, they, at the risk of their own lives, rendered all assistance in their power, and mercifully, yea, almost miraculously, the mission party got on shore alive. On another occasion, this good man was returning to his island home on Aitutaki from a missionary visit to an island of the group, more than a hundred miles distant, and had to endure trials and dangers which we cannot do better than. 212 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. give in his own language. "I cannot say how long, but it was many hours after we left the shore," he says, " before we reached the vessel; and when we went on board we found the mate, part of the crew, and some of the passen- gers, were in a state of intoxication. We were nine days and nights making a passage which, by proper order and management, ought to have been made in thirty hours. Dur- ing these nine nights I do not think I was two hours below in the cabin. In fact, it was some time before any cabin accommodation at all could be gained for us, and, when gained, I used nightly to see my family into their berths, and then return on deck, where I sought rest for my weary limbs, but where my mind was frequently and severely pained by the most obscene language ever uttered by human tongues. The captain expressed himself much pained on our account, but could do nothing to prevent,, and very little to alleviate our circumstances. We must have passed Aitu- taki the second night we were on board, but the excesses of the people led to its not being seen." These notices require no comment; they, will show that apart from the direct service rendered by the missionary ship in opening new fields of labour on heathen lands, its character and service are almost essential to the well-being, if not to the continued existence of our older missions. Escaping from these troubles at sea, the missionary of Aitutaki was about this time called to endure another severe trial, not so much from the natives as from foreigners cast on their shores. On his return from one of his visit- ations to the small islands, he found a beautiful large new ship, lying broadside on the reef, a complete wreck. One unfortunate sailor had been lost, and upwards of forty were let loose, the missionary writes, on this small island, who gave themselves up every day to drunkenness, and who in their ill-judged kindness freely distributed wines and all THE ISLAND 01' AITTJTiilil. 213 kinds of ardent spirits amongst the natives. To an infant mission, scarcely yet consolidated in its social or civil in- stitutions, nothing can be more injurious than these evils from without. There are many Christian native commu- nities now in a flourishing and progressive state, entirely under the care of native pastors, and which, but for inter- course with foreigners, might be left to themselves with safety, but who, having to contend with evils arising out of that intercourse, must for years to come have the presence and superintendence of an European missionary. It will be well for the friends of Christian missions to the heathen, to think about these facts ; and while they desire to see native stations self-provided, and self-sustaining, not to expect or urge a premature withdrawment of foreign agency and assistance. We Lave seen in this chapter a glimpse, and only a glimpse^ of the trials which arise to a missionary at an infant station, from influences from without. More might be said; but we trust the above will be sufficiently sug- gestive, and lead to some practical results. It is however cheering to turn aside from the contemplation of such hin- drances, and on the other hand to witness the positive advance of Christianity beyond the limit of its first suc- cesses. Such is the case on Aitutaki. In every depart- ment of missionary labour on this island, there was, despite all the foregoing troubles, positive advance and improve- ment each year, which cheered and encouraged the faithful labourer. Nowhere, however,'was this more visible than in the schools; to these the missionary and teachers daily gave their best and undivided attention, and they were permitted to see the fruits of their toils. Speaking of one young woman who was prepared, instru- mentally, by those instructions, to leave earth for heaven, the missionary says, " She was marked by death as an early 214 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. victim for the tomb. She had long been in the habit of attending my select Bible-clasSj and her attendance was not in vain ; like Lydia, her heart was opened, and she was directed to Jesus, whom she received as her Saviour. She was devotedly attached to the divine ordinances, and fre- quently have I seen her, seated against the trunk of a tree, quite' exhausted in her attempts to reach the house of God. Alluding to a native practice of friends bringing presents of cloth and other things when they visit the sick, she said, ' Tell them, I do not wish for property ; — a word, a -prayer, an exhortation, I will value more than all the property they can bring.' She was comparatively a child in years, but had attained a maturity in Christian knowledge and expe- rience. When near death, she said, 'I have visited the cross — there I have been able to leave my burdens.' Oh ! how sweet these words : ' He bore our sins, and carried our sorrows — Jesus is my anchor; Jesus is my refuge; Jesus is my all ! Peace be with you, my teacher !' " Such testimonies as these do give peace to the Christian teacher; a peace which, through grace, enables him to be calm in the midst of trial, toil, and persecution; these are his joy here, and the crown of his rejoicing hereafter, when he will present them to the Saviour as the eternal trophies of his own free and boundless grace. CHAPTEE III. -An American whale ship wrecked on the island — A native letter of re- port — The captain's testimony — Contrast in the cruelty of natives of a heathen island — Missionary encouragements — The church the keystone of society — State of the two stations on the island — Mis- sionary's wife —Maternal Association — Numbers in school — Mission- ary zeal of the native church — Its members gone to heathen lands — Devastation of a storm in 1854 — G-ratifying instance of native kindness and concern for the mission family — Ravages of measles on the island — Practical Christianity of the natives — Their mission- ary contributions— Conclusion. In order to illustrate the honesty and business-like habits of the natives of this island, we have now to record circum- stances which attended the wreck of an American whale ship, which occurred prior to that mentioned in the last chapter. The vessel was homeward bound from the Sand- wich islands, and full of oil. Coming between the islands of the Hervey groups, the currents carried the ship beyond the captain's reckoning ; and on a dark and squally night she struck on the reef, which extends some miles off shore ; the sea was rough, and the surf broke violently over the wreck, so that in a very short time the noble vessel was shattered to pieces. Of her five boats, only two remained, and in these the crew reached the shore, thankful that the (215) 216 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. accident had not occurred on a heathen island. The natives rendered every assistance to the shipwrecked mariners, and" aided them in saving a good portion of their property. On leaving the island, the native authorities gave the captain a document, written by one of their number, to the owners of the ship. It was as follows : — "Sirs — the owners of the ship which is now a wreck here. We make known to you the circumstances. When we arose early in the moruing the ship was completely broken up. We then hastened to the assistance of the crew, and found them all safe. A part only of the cargo is lost, and a part we have saved." Here follows an account of the cargo saved by them ; and the letter concludes with, " Bless- ing on you from the Lord." The captain of this ship, who remained some time with the natives, and had good opportunity of seeing them as they were in their every-day life, wrote a statement of his views and feelings to "^The Friend" of the Sandwich Islands, of which the following is a copy : — " During my stay at Aitutaki, I found the natives a kind and hospitable people; they have a large stone church which will contain a thousand persons, and which was well filled every Sabbath while I was there. Every morning, the missionary attends to the schools. There is also in this village a large stone school-house, and many stone native dwelling-houses. Aa regards civilization, the natives of this island have made great advancement." With a view to lead seafaring men to reflect on the advantages of missionary labours to them as a class, the same newspaper gives a contrast to the above treatment from natives who have the Bible, by narrating the circum- stances of a slaughter which occurred on board a whale ship off a heathen island in the Pacific, in 1835. While sailing among the islands neax the equator, a numerous company THE ISLAND OF AITUTAKI. 217 of natives came off to the vessel for the purpose of barter. For a time, things went on amicably ; but, on a signal being given by the chief of the party, the whole body of savages seized the harpoons, whale-spades, and other weapons at hand, and a desperate contest immediately ensued, in which the captain, two officers, and many of the crew were killed. Who can contemplate these facts, and others of like character, without seeing that the diffusion of the gospel among those Pagan islanders is an incalculable blessing to navigation and to commerce ; and surely, missionaries and teachers, in doing this work, if not encouraged and assisted by traders and seamen, ought at least to be saved that annoyance and insult, which they are so often called to en- dure from such parties. Happily, however, the motives which impel the faithful labourer in the missipn field, depend not on either the frowns or smiles of men : his work is undertaken in obe- dience to the command of his divine Master, and, in the devoted discharge of it, he has a peace and joy, and a reward that the world knoweth not. It was thus with the mission- ary on Aitutaki. speaking of the happy change which has come over the people, since his first years of toils and dangers amongst them, he says, " The church of Christ in this island is now the key-stone to the structure of society." Politically free, the people enjoy liberty of speech and action to the fullest extent. Popular feeling is so strong against a mere profession of religion, and, when detected, it meets with such severe censure, that it is hazardous for any one to assume a character which he cannot consistently sustain. The conduct of those who make a profession of Christianity, amidst such a state of society, is open to the closest obser- vation, and their principles and motives undergo the strictest scrutiny. Every gift and acquirement is viewed by the 19 218 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. converts as a talent; every privilege implies in their esti- mation, a duty; and every dispensation of Providence evolves a purpose of God's wisdom and love, leadiflg to some prac- tical purpose : and hence the devotedness and zeal of these native infant churches, which sometimes astonish, and always delight, those who have been instrumental in their organization. As on Karotonga and Mangaia, so on this island, the receipt of the entire Scriptures, irt their own language, was an event of much interest and joy ; and nothing is more remarkable in their character than their desire after, and reverence for, the word of God. Besides the principal village, where the missionary resides, there is another at a little distance, which is partly under the superintendence of a native teacher; and at both places the schools and chapels are well attended. In addition to the ordinary duties of attending to adult female classes, Mrs. Royle has for many years given much time and care to the conducting of a Ma- ternal Association, which embraces the greater part of the adult females on the island. Her weekly Bible classes number no less than one hundred and forty members, and the mothers meet her once a fortnight'*ro pray for, and to converse about the best interests of their children. "In our schools," writes Mr. Royle, " we also find much pleasure, and our labours have not been without their appropriate reward. They continue to be conducted day by day without inter- ruption ; more than -nine hundred scholars, adults and children,,are in constant attendance, and our happiest hours are in their midst. In the children's school the missionary is now efiSciently assisted by fifty teachers : young men and women, who for the most part were little children when the blessings of Christianity were conveyed to their land ; but who, being the first fruits of missionary labour, are giving themselves to do what they can, to extend and perpetuate the blessings they have received." THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 219 It must also be recorded, in reference to the cliurcli on Aitutaki, that it is deeply interested in the spread of the gospel to heatken lands ; it has a Missionary Auxiliary Society for contributions, and many of its best men have gone to Western Polynesia as native teachers : fifteen of its members, male and female, have been sent to the Earotonga Institution during the last ten years, some of whom have died on the high places of the field of conflict, and others are still labouring with devotedness and success. Paoo, the first native evangelist to the Loyalty group of islands westward, is an Aitutakian. Beleazara was another : he fought a good fight in missionary work on the islands of Aneiteum and Tana, where, after enduring much toil and privation, he died, just when the holy cause he served began to rise triumphant over heathenism and idolatry. Apolo was sent out from Aitutaki, as a Christian pioneer to the distant northern group of Maniiki, and he is there doing a good work ; and Vaa, with his excellent wife, both from this island, were companions with the men who, at the risk of their lives, landed on the shores of Eromanga, and are now teaching the truths of Christianity, with suc- cess, to the on(#* savage cannibal men who murdered Williams and Harris. Besides these, Rupe, the native pastor on the island of Atiu, is also from the Aitutaki church ; and it is still its honour and joy to have a goodly number of like-minded men, children of parents who were heathens, but who themselves are, by the grace and teach- ing of the Holy Spirit, preparing for usefulness among their own population, or to those on islands in the far distant Western Polynesia. On the 6th of February, 1854, this little garden island was stripped of its beauty, and shaken, to its centre, by one of those destructive hurricanes, the desolations of which we have had occasion to notice on other islands of this group. 220 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. The sea rose to a fearfal height ; every house on the island was unroofed, every plantation devastated ; and so terrific was the earthquake which accompanied the sttorm, that many miles of new beach were raised up, inside the lagoon, where there had been, previously, a deep sea. The famine which ensued was most grievous ; but the people were spared much labour in building, their chapel and school, and most of their dwelling-houses, being of thick substantial stone walls. In the midst of this calamity there occurred one incident among many, which shows the delicate kindness and anxious concern of these people towards their missionary and his family. The storm had destroyed most of his household supplies in store, so necessary not only to the health, but almost to the existence, of himself and family in their iso- lated situation. The missionary said but little about this to the natives, but they knew it to be a fact, and deeply grieved over it. After many months of suspense, an American whaler was seen off the island, and before the captain could have any communication on shore, several of the natives, unknown to their friends, went on board, and entreated him to allow them to work for him in getting off water and wood to his ship, while it remained at the islaiid. The captain enquired their terms : " Oh, we do not want money," they replied. " Well, then," said the captain, " what cloth will you require ?" " No," they rejoined, " we do not want cloth." "What, then, do you wish?" demanded the cap- tain. " Let us work first," continued the natives, " and then we will tell you afterwards." "No," was the reply, "I cannot engage you on those terms ; you must tell me at once what you will desire as payment for your work." We will leave it with you," said the natives, " but we wish you to pay us in flour and sugar." There was an unusual reserved- ness and importunity about the men that the captain could not understand, but from which he could not escape. Thoy THE ISLAND OP AITUTAKI. 221 went to work ; a peculiar earnestness and sobriety marked their whole conduct, and on being paid their wages in the articles they ha'd desired, they sent them as a present to the missionary, whom they knew to be in want, and who had himself applied to three or four ships to purchase flour, but had not been able to get any. In the same year, before the islanders had recovered from the effects of the hurricane, a ship arrived from Tahiti, having on board a number of natives who were ill of measles ; these were permitted to mingle with the people of Aitutaki ; and about ten days after the vessel left the island, the disease was found to be widely spread among all classes on shore. While the cases were few and scattered, they were tolerably manageable by the missionary, who at all such times is ge- neral physician to the community ; but the epidemic soon extended, assuming a formidable character, until the whole population became prostrate. Every available means was employed to relieve the sufferers, and faithful warning was given to those who had escaped, to observe precautionary measures, necessary under such circumstances. It was, however, painful to witness the carelessness and inattention of those afflicted with this new disease. Instead of keeping themselves warm, the most exposed situations were sought after, in order to feel the cool south wind; some fled to the small islands within the lagoon, away from the main land, and there died ; while others, under the action of high inflammation, bathed in the sea, and after a lapse of a few hours fell victims to their imprudence : great numbers died, and those who recovered were left so feeble in constitution, that the effects of the visitation will be felt for years to come. Upon the whole, it was one of the most severe trials the people of Aitutaki have been called to endure since the introduction of the gospel to their island. 19* 222 GEMS FROM THE CORAL ISLANDS. Such was the condition of this island in 1854. Often have the poor people been depressed, — ^yet tbey have been buoyant, and have arisen above their calamities. Often have the Christian part of the population been cast down ; but they have never yielded to despair ! In their character and conduct we see the might and the grace of the gospel of Christ : — Christianity in them has been opposed by heathenism and idolatry ; it has been persecuted by armed foes from without and within; its inherent life has been tested by storms of fire, and flood, and disease ; but it has ever risen above the tempest, and is higher and brighter, and more deeply rooted on the island now than at any past period of its history, and in no instance have we a finer illus- tration of this, than in the circumstances which occurred almost directly after the afSiction recorded on the preceding page. It had been the habit of the Aitutakians for some years to have an Annual Missionary Meeting, in order to en- courage themselves to aid onward the cause, and to pay in their contributions for the Parent Society. But this year of hurricane and affliction, the missionary proposed that the missionary service should be dispensed with; the people, however, said, " No ; whether our contributions be little or much, we will have our meeting." It was consequently held, and a population not numbering 1000 adults con- tributed money and arrow-root, in that year of depression, to the amount of no less than eighty pounds ($400), as their subscription to the London Missionary Society. Besides this, t^iey made liberal contributions of native cloth, and other articles, for their brethren who were labour- ing in heathen lands. For Apolo, their teacher on the island of Maniiki, they bought a boat at the cost of ten pounds ; and for the poor heathen people, who, just coming out of the nakedness of heathen life, had not the means THE ISLAND OP AITTJTAKI. 223 to buy clothing, these Aitutakians wrought with their own hands 100 bonnets, sixty hats, and 100 yards of native bark cloth, and purchased 300 yards of English and Ameri- can calicoes and prints, all of which were got ready, with much pleasure, to be taken in the missionary ship to the inhabitants of Western Polynesia. One day, while packing these goods for shipment, the missionary, who was with the people, was pleased to find that the paper lining of each hat had a suitable inscription written on it ; sometimes a passage of Scripture, on others a motto, on others a sentence of admonition or instruction to the semi-savages for whom they were designed. On looking into one of them he was deeply affected to find an expression of their benevolence and pious zeal, recorded in the follow- ing sentence : — E pare teia no te tangata i ta ia WiliaTnv, ! — " This hat is for the man who murdered Williams !" Verily here is a climax ! . a climax creditable to themselves, honour- able to their friend, and worthy of the gospel of Christ. Only thirty-two years before, they were themselves a wild, savage, heathen people ; Williams then left among them two native Tahitian Christians ; for more than ten years after that, they were but in a state of semi-enlightenment and civilization, so that at the time of which we have written, they were not, as a people, twenty years old in an elevated knowledge and experience of true religion, — yet, in them we now see the entire absence of what they once were ; they are a well educated Christian community, holding honourable intercourse with ships that call at their shores ; wisely and justly regulated by civil and social order at home, and are sending out an influence, a powerful and benign influence, by their example, and men, and contributions, to all the islands of the Hervey group, and to other groups nearly three thousand miles away from their own island home; and, above all, loving and assisting the very men 224 GEMS FROM THE COEAl ISLANDS. who, in their ignorance and cruelty, shed the blood of him to whom, instrumentally, they are indebted for all the bless- ings they now enjoy. Let the parent churches in England give thanks to God for such fruit from their past labours, and emulate the spirit and example of these its converts, until all despotism and tyranny, as well as all heathenism, be banished the earth, and the purity, and peace, and love of the gospel, reign triumphant over all the tribes of man ! THE ISLAND OF ATIU. CONTENTS. 9 Tahitian natives driven to Atiu in a etorm^The island discovered in 1777 — First missionary visit, 1822 — Trials of the native teachers — Progress of the mission — Papehia visits the island — Rev. E. Krause ■ resides among the people — Incidents of his landing — Illness of M. Krause — State of mission in 1843 — The Rev. H. Royle's visit to the island — His labours — His trials and persecution — State of the people in 1845- — Romantic tale of a heathen voyager — New chapel opened in 1846 — An account of Rupe, the native pastor, on Atiu — Natives of Atiu employed in aiding the missionary cause — Conclusion. In the year 1765, twenty natives of Tahiti embarked in a canoe to go to a neighbouring island ; in doing so they were overtaken by a storm; the greater part of them perished at sea, but four were brought to the island of Atiu, a distance of nearly 700 miles. These Tahitians were kindly received by the Atiuans ; and when Captain Cook discovered the island in 1777 three of them were then living. This island is called Wateoo on most of the old charts, and is next in size and population to Aitutaki in this group. Captain Cook describes the people as being numerous for so small an ' ( 225 ) 226 GEMS FROM THE COEAL ISLANDS. island, when he visited it, and says, that they were of a kind and obliging disposition. It must, however, be remembered, that he had on board a native of Tahiti, who could talk with the Atiuans, and who told them such terrific and extrava- gant tales about the power of the foreigners' guns to blow the island to atoms, that they did not on that occasion • manifest their usual ferocious habits. In 1822, forty-five years subsequent to Captain Cook's visit, the missionaries on Tahiti sent two Christian teachers to this island. These were received on shore by the heathen people, and their lives were spared, but, when visited, they were found to be in a most miserable condition ; the natives had stripped them of every ai-ticle of property, and they were suffering much from want and ill-treatment. This visit, however, was successful in giving correct information to the people respecting the object of the teachers' mission, and of leading to the overthrow of idolatry. A native from Aitutaki, who had embraced Christianity under the teach- ings of Papehia, was on board, and had a long conversation with the chitf of Atiu, explaining to him the wonders that .had taken place on his own island since the people had burnt their idols, and had embraced the doctrines of the gospel of Jesus Christ. The chief and many of his people listened with much interest to these representations, and determined to give more heed to the words of their teacher than they had ^leretofore done. The chief was especially interested and instructed by an exposition of Psalm cxv. and Isaiah xliv. 9 — 20 ; and even with the small glimmering of light which he had then received, he expressed himself surprised that he and his people had been so long deceived by dumb and profitless gods of wood, and stones, and feathers. A Tahitian native teacher was left on the island, and, according to the best of his abilities and acquirements, he instructed the THE ISLAND OP ATIU. 227 people of Atiu in the dootrines of Christianity. A goodly number of them received the word of life, and rejoiced in the salvation they had gained ; good school-houses were erected, and were well attended by