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 Cornell University Library 
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 Excursion from Jericho to the ruins of t 
 
 3 1924 028 748 642 
 
The original of tliis book is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
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A^ EXCURSION 
 
 JERICHO 
 
 RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITIES 
 
 GERAZA AND AMMAN, 
 
 COUNTEY EAST OF THE EIVEE JOEDAN. 
 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 T. HATCHARD, 187, PICCADILLY. 
 
 1852. 
 
 Vi 
 
 I'// MM 
 
LONDON : 
 G. J. PALMER, SAVOr STREET, STRAND. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following extract from the journal of 
 a Radcliflfe Travelling Fellow of Oxford, is 
 intended to caU the attention of travellers to 
 the interesting country to which the Author's 
 journey relates. A country tending to awaken 
 associations in the minds of educated and of 
 Christian men more than any other portion 
 of the globe : inasmuch as it is intimately 
 connected with every period and with every 
 narrative of sacred and profane history. 
 
 Whilst the fabulous plains of Troy, and of 
 the kingdom of Lavinia — the battle grounds 
 of Hector and Achilles — of Turnus and 
 
 a 2 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 Mnens — whilst the wonclerous remains of 
 Thebes and PersepoHs, of Egypt and Assy- 
 ria — whilst the storied fields of classic G-reece 
 and every site of Roman glory — whilst 
 every incident and every trace of the might 
 and magnificence of the heathen world, have 
 been, and continue to be the subjects of in- 
 tense interest and minute research, — the 
 country of the Bible history — the sure and 
 certain lands where history itself begins — 
 where the Deity deigned to make known his 
 laws and his commands — -where Abraham and 
 Moses, Joshua and Saul, under the inspira- 
 tion of God's will, reigned and conquered 
 and built great cities, — that country excites 
 no interest, and invites no enterprising tra- 
 vellers. This inquiring age is absorbed in the 
 elucidation of profane, not of rehgious his- 
 tory ; of heathen, not of Biblical geography. 
 These observations do not apply to the 
 Holy Land, commonly so called. That li- 
 
PREFACE. Y 
 
 mited portion of Syria, the scene of the 
 labours and the sufferings of our Lord and Sa- 
 viour, has obtained all the honour, the interest, 
 and the investigation which it demands ; but 
 why is the Jordan to remain the Rubicon of 
 man's research in Scriptural geography 1 
 
 The author has wandered over the length 
 and breadth of the country of the Ten 
 Tribes — from the Orontes (" the entering into 
 Hamath ") to the " River of Egypt," and from 
 the Euphrates to the " Great Sea," and he 
 can assure the traveller that he will find in 
 those deeply interesting, but neglected re- 
 gions, all that can gratify his most ardent 
 expectations, and recompense him for the 
 severest toils. 
 
 The climate is pure and healthy, and 
 portions of the country are in the highest 
 degree picturesque and beautiful. In the 
 Houran especially, his path will be encum- 
 bered with the ruins of ancient cities, the 
 
Vi PREFACE. 
 
 sites and former names of which require 
 ekicidation. 
 
 The inhabitants, although under little au- 
 thority, are nevertheless easily managed by 
 courteous treatment and pecuniary recom- 
 pense ; and their laws and their habits of 
 life illustrate, in a remarkable manner, the 
 records of the sacred historians. 
 
 What a fresh and fertile field is here pre- 
 sented for the operations of our Christian 
 missionaries, as well as for the investigations 
 of erudite travellers ! How often has the 
 author observed and lamented the ardent 
 aspirations, and the feeble performances of 
 the former, lingering on " this side Jordan \" 
 
 The Holy Land is, indeed, a most attrac- 
 tive vineyard for the labours of the Christian 
 husbandman. The soil of that degenerate 
 country is yet a stony waste, or rank vrith 
 Roman weeds ; but in vain do the indefati- 
 gable members of the Bible Society spread 
 
PREFACE . \n 
 
 the sacred volume on the surface of that holy 
 ground. They sow plenteously, but reap 
 sparingly. They little know by what subtle 
 means the enemy, the Roman Catholics, 
 defeat their endeavours. How stealthily 
 they follow in their track, sowing " tares," 
 and devouring the " good seed " almost be- 
 fore it has reached the earth. 
 
 The emissaries of the Papal Power in 
 Syria are ever on the watch to purchase the 
 Bibles which the missionaries distribute, or to 
 beg them as a boon from their unsuspecting 
 hands, for the purpose of consigning them to 
 the flames. 
 
 Orthodox Christianity can never be esta- 
 blished in the Holy Land by the efforts of 
 wandering agents of any Missionary Society. 
 The Roman Catholics, by the radiating in- 
 fluence of their fixed stations, and their resi- 
 dent propagandists, effectually circumvent 
 the locomotive missionary, rendering his la- 
 bours abortive and his path trackless. 
 
VIU PEEPACE. 
 
 A different and more comprehensive sys- 
 tem must be adopted to regenerate apostoli- 
 cal Christianity in the land of its birth. 
 
 In the meanwhile, the author would ear- 
 nestly entreat the ardent pioneers of Chris- 
 tian truth not to pause on the banks of the 
 Jordan, but boldly to cross that consecrated 
 stream, and plunge into the wilderness be- 
 yond. And, amongst the mountains of Gi- 
 lead, and the ruins of Geraza and of Am- 
 man, he will find a country morally, as it 
 is physically, untrodden and uncultivated by 
 the sowers of God's holy Word, and almost a 
 blank in the map of modern geography. 
 
AN EXCUKSION, 
 
 Sre. 
 
 At the distance of forty miles, to the east 
 of Jerusalem, is a vast plain, scathed and 
 blighted by a burning sun and subterraneous 
 fires ; a rapid river flows through the cen- 
 tre, and barren mountains encompass it on 
 every side but one, where a lake, into which 
 the river discharges itself, expands into a waste 
 of salt and bitter waters, its desolate shores 
 shrouded by frowning precipices, and its sullen 
 surface reposing in the stillness of death. 
 
 In the midst of this dreary region, a few 
 wretched habitations -surround a ruined 
 tower, and this is all that now remains of 
 the ancient city of Jericho. I had lingered 
 
 B 
 
2 EXCURSION PEOM 
 
 three days with my companions* in this me- 
 morable spot, waiting the arrival of some 
 Arabs, who had been summoned from their 
 mountains to escort us to Djeerash.t Towards 
 the evening of the third day they appeared 
 to our anxious view, first, as a dark spot in 
 the horizon across the plain eastward, and, 
 growing every moment more and more ap- 
 parent, until, ere long, five horsemen, with 
 their lances dancing in the air, were distin- 
 guished advancing rapidly towards us ; some 
 soldiers of the Aga of Jericho rode out to 
 meet them, and, after a short parley, con- 
 ducted them into the village. Having dis- 
 mounted and fettered their panting horses 
 to the ground, they approached our party, 
 
 ■■' M. Alexandre de Laborde, a name well known 
 in French literature ; M. Leon de Laborde, his son, 
 a distinguished traveller and author ; and M. Becker, 
 the son of a general of the French army. 
 
 t Geraza. 
 
JEKICHO TO GERAZA. 3 
 
 which was formed to receive them, consisting 
 of the Aga and his guards, three or four 
 soldiers of Jerusalem, who had accompanied 
 us from thence, ourselves, and attendants. 
 
 The Arab strangers proved, as we had an- 
 ticipated, to be our promised escort ; they 
 were invited by the Aga, with much cour- 
 tesy, to seat themselves ; and, cofiee having 
 been offered to each, an arrangement for our 
 safe conduct to Djeerash and our return to 
 Jericho was soon agreed upon, and we pre- 
 pared to depart before the dawn of the fol- 
 lowing day. 
 
 The Arabs were five in number, two of 
 them were brothers, the elder, whose name 
 was F4hdel, was chief of a tribe, which, in 
 league with two others, commanded the 
 country through which our intended journey 
 lay. Sheik Fg,hdel was not less distinguished 
 from his companions by his rank, than by 
 the superiority of his personal appearance ; 
 
 B 2 
 
4 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 he was above six feet in height, thin, but 
 well-proportioned ; his walk was particularly- 
 upright and graceful ; and his manners were 
 dignified, because they were perfectly natural. 
 
 His brother was a fine youth, about twenty 
 years of age. There was a strong resem- 
 blance between them ; in stature he was less 
 than his brother, and his features were not 
 quite so regular, but his expression was more 
 pleasing and animated ; he seemed to feel 
 embarrassed by the formality of the party 
 which surrounded him, and he told us af- 
 terwards that he had never before been in 
 the presence of strangers. 
 
 Two of the Arabs were nearly related to 
 the Sheik, and the fifth was an attendant. 
 Their dress consisted of a double shirt, 
 which reached below the knee, sinking a 
 little over the bosom ; a girdle of leather 
 was bound round their loins ; the chief and 
 his brother wore a pair of cotton drawers, 
 
JERICHO TO GEliAZA. 5 
 
 and a tattered robe of silk over their shirt ; 
 two of them had nothing on their head, and 
 their feet were bare. The Sheik wore a 
 small turban which had once been white, but 
 was now the colour of his own tawny com- 
 plexion ; the two others wore the usual Arab 
 head-dress, consisting of a coarse party- 
 coloured handkerchief, in which the yellow 
 prevails, placed on the crown of the head, 
 and bound round the forehead with a cord 
 (or skein) of raw worsted, the ends of the 
 handkerchief hanging down on the shoulders 
 and neck, and the forehead almost concealed 
 by a deep fold of the handkerchief, falling in 
 front under the bandage. 
 
 Their only weapon was a lance of eight or 
 nine feet in length, except the chief, who had 
 a sabre loosely swung over his shoulders by a 
 long loop of cord, reaching to the middle of 
 the thigh. 
 
 Our party started, as had been agreed 
 
" EXCUESIOlir FROM 
 
 upon, at three o'clock, a.m., well armed and 
 well mounted. Our own dress was similar to 
 that worn by the Turks of Palestine, which 
 diflfers little from the common Oriental cos- 
 tume, except that a handkerchief, after the 
 Arab fashion, as a protection to the eyes 
 from the scorching heat of the desert, is 
 sometimes substituted for the small red cap 
 or turboosh, upon which the folds of the 
 turban are piled. 
 
 The plain was cold even to chilliness, and 
 we were therefore well disposed to make up 
 for the time we had loitered at Jericho, by 
 pushing on at a rapid pace for the banks and 
 fords of the Jordan. Several horsemen be- 
 longing to the Aga accompanied us as far as 
 the river, which we reached after a journey 
 of two hours and a half, having traversed 
 a desolate plain, partially covered with scanty 
 shrubs. The Jordan, at the spot where we 
 arrived, was divided into two branches, 
 
JERICHO TO GEKAZA. 7 
 
 forming an islet, clad with the same rough 
 bushes, and bordered, like the banks of the 
 river, with weeping-willows, whose pendent 
 boughs swept the surface of the stream. 
 And this is the spot resorted to by Christian 
 pilgrims for the performance of their ablu- 
 tions, as the same where our Saviour was 
 baptized by John. Not a modern building, 
 nor the ruins of any of a former period, 
 were to be seen in the neighbourhood. The 
 western branch of the river, which is the 
 most considerable, is about eighty feet in 
 breadtb, and five or six in depth, and the 
 current is extremely rapid. 
 
 The melting snows of Lebanon had in- 
 creased the abundance of its waters, so that 
 we were obliged to remove our baggage, and 
 to place it in such a manner on the tallest 
 horse of the party as to secure i,ts safety and 
 keep it dry whilst passing the river. Some 
 of our party took off their clothes, and, 
 
8 EXCUESIOK FROM 
 
 plunging into the stream, gained the opposite 
 bank by swimming. For my own part, hav- 
 ing entered the river below my companions, 
 I was forced, by the strength of the current, 
 much beyond the point where, from the 
 nature of the opposite bank, an easy landing 
 was to be obtained. I was thus hurried 
 amongst the willows and other bushes on 
 the borders, and had not one of the Arabs, 
 who had already arrived at the opposite side, 
 hastened to my assistance, I should most 
 probably have been drowned. 
 
 We were cautioned on gaining the eastern 
 bank to keep near each other, the spot being 
 much infested by predatory Arabs from the 
 neighbouring shores of the Dead Sea, who fre- 
 quently attack strangers at the ford, ere 
 they regain possession of their arms, and 
 when they are too fatigued, from the exer- 
 tion of swimming, to defend themselves. 
 
 We now continued our route across an 
 
JEEICHO TO GEEAZA. 9 
 
 undulating tract, intersected by gentle hills 
 and ravines, entirely uncultivated and unpro- 
 ductive. We next entered on an extensive 
 plain, traversed by a small rivulet, tributary 
 to the Jordan, and for the most part thickly 
 studded with the oleander and other "wild 
 shrubs ; the most common of which was a 
 bushy tree, as large as our hawthorn, covered 
 with sharp prickles, and bearing a small 
 round fruit about the size of the wild 
 cherry, which, after it has become rotten, 
 is sweet and pleasant to the taste. This 
 bush (the Spina Christi of botanists) is 
 supposed to have supplied the crown of 
 thorns with which our Saviour's head was 
 encircled at the time of his crucifixion. An- 
 other shrub, very common in the plain of 
 the Jordan, produces a fruit from which they 
 were wont to make the balm of the Sama- 
 ritan. 
 
 We observed hereabouts many spots of 
 
10 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 cultivated land, and crops of corn ready for 
 the harvest ; which in some degree relieved 
 the desolate appearance of the surrounding 
 country. These patches of cultivation were 
 the property of the Arab tribe, whose chief 
 was our guide, some families of which were 
 accustomed to descend from their mountain 
 resorts at the season of sowing, and pitching 
 their tents for a while in the plain, to pre- 
 pare the soil in the rudest manner, and 
 depart, leaving the seed scarcely beneath 
 the surface, to be drawn forth to perfec- 
 tion rather by the fructifying operation of 
 a brilliant sun, than by the influence of an 
 arid soil. They return at the season of the 
 harvest to gather in the ripened grain, when it 
 sometimes happens that enemies, of another 
 tribe, have already robbed them of their 
 anticipations, or the wild boars of the woods 
 have destroyed the expected crops.* 
 
 ■* " The boar out of the wood doth waste it, 
 
JERICHO TO GEEAZA. 11 
 
 The day had become exceedingly hot, 
 and we halted for an hour to enjoy the 
 shade of the high bushes, and the refresh- 
 ment of the cooling stream. A few tents 
 were scattered here and there in preparation 
 for the approaching harvest, and as I strolled 
 in the front of one of them, I observed a 
 group of the occupants eating " parched 
 corn," of which they offered me, with care- 
 less smiles, a handful.* 
 
 Continuing our journey, we soon began 
 to mount some barren hills, the roots of 
 the mountain ridge which we were about 
 to cross. Here we fell in with a moving 
 
 and the wild beast of the field doth devour it." — 
 Psalm Ixxx. 13. 
 
 * " He reached her parched corn, and she did 
 eat." — Ruth ii. 14. 
 
 Parched corn is frequently eaten in Arabia. The 
 laborious process of making bread being often in- 
 convenient or impossible. 
 
12 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 camp of Arabs belonging to the tribe of 
 our chief, which was changing its station ; 
 it was composed of about eighty famiUes, 
 and we were much struck with the beauty 
 and strength of the camels, and the nume- 
 rous flocks of sheep and goats. In the 
 rear were the sumpter camels, laden with 
 the women and tent materials, and the 
 moveables of each family. The saddles or 
 panniers of the camels here were of a dif- 
 ferent form from those we had observed in 
 the Syrian Desert ; the mats and carpets 
 were thrown over the back of the animal, and 
 on these were hung two round hollow pads, 
 large enough to hide and entirely envelop 
 the hunch on the back of the camel. In 
 this nest-like contrivance, the women, with 
 their infants, were crouched, and almost con- 
 cealed ; while in some I observed the head 
 of a new-born lamb or kid, forming part of 
 the family group. 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 13 
 
 On reaching the summit of this hilly coun- 
 try, which we had been laboriously climb- 
 ing for several hours, we halted again to re- 
 fresh ourselves and horses, and to eat of the 
 coarse fare which we had brought with us. The 
 spot selected was under the shade of two or 
 three stunted oaks, and commanded a magnifi- 
 cent view, extending towards the Dead Sea and 
 its surrounding mountains, and over the plain 
 of Jericho, traversed longitudinally by the 
 river Jordan, whose winding channel was 
 marked by the darker line of vegetation on 
 its banks, — ^beyond were seen the mountains 
 of Judaea, which bounded the plain on the 
 side of Jerusalem. 
 
 We again resumed our journey, and the 
 country improved as we advanced ; gentle 
 elevations clothed with the richest herbage, 
 and crowned with groves of trees, enclosed 
 us on every side. 
 
 Our direction, which had been due east 
 
14 
 
 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 from the plain of Jericho, now turned a little 
 north. After riding for several hours, some- 
 times following the winding of a secluded 
 valley, and sometimes concealed amongst the 
 woodlands above, we struck into a narrow 
 defile, on entering which, our guides, sud- 
 denly interrupting the silence and regularity 
 which fatigue had for some time imposed 
 upon our little troop, began to shout aloud ; 
 and giving us to understand that we were ap- 
 proaching the place of their encampment, 
 pressed forward to prepare for our reception. 
 Inspirited by this welcome news, we forced 
 our tired horses into a trot, and soon emerg- 
 ing from the narrow pass, a scene burst upon 
 our view, the most picturesque and the most 
 interesting I had ever beheld. A spacious 
 lawn was spread before us, covered vrith a 
 mantle of deepest green, and decked with 
 flowers of every colour ; rounded slopes and 
 lengthened vistas opened out in every direc- 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 15 
 
 tion, here, terminated by groves of trees, 
 clad in all the splendour of their summer 
 foliage, and there, abruptly closed by rocky 
 eminences projecting their rugged points 
 amidst the wild shrubs that entwined around 
 them. A limpid stream flowed through the 
 midst, and a bold and varied outline of lof- 
 tier hills encircled in the distance this se- 
 cluded region. Clusters of tents were scat- 
 tered around, and their occupants, assisted 
 by numerous dogs, were busily engaged in 
 gathering the flocks together for the night. 
 
 We rode direct to the camp of our chief, 
 which was placed almost in the centre of the 
 landscape I have described ; the men came 
 forward to greet our party as we approached ; 
 the women appeared in the front of their 
 tents, and the children ran wild and naked 
 around us. 
 
 Having dismounted, our horses were led 
 away to a short distance to be fettered to the 
 
16 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 ground, and we were received with a frank 
 and unaffected welcome beneath the dwelling 
 of our noble chief. 
 
 Coffee was soon prepared and offered to 
 each ; meanwhile a lamb was slaughtered, and 
 a fire having been lighted in the centre of the 
 tent, the reeking carcass was thrown upon the 
 burning embers, and being turned over, ever 
 and anon, with the points of swords and fire- 
 brands, was soon pronounced, in the language 
 of our interpreter, to be " ben' cotto," and we 
 were summoned to our repast. Fortunately 
 this was not the first time that we had been 
 guests at such a banquet, and we joined the 
 circle with less repugnance perhaps than a Pa- 
 risian epicurean would have done. We received, 
 each in our turn, pieces of mangled flesh, torn 
 from the carcass by the hands of our tawny 
 companions. It is a mark of favour and con- 
 descension on the part of the chief and the 
 aged, in these feasts of hospitaHty, to give 
 
JEEICHO TO GERAZA. 17 
 
 their half-devoured morsels, or half-gnawed 
 bones to strangers to finish, and I received 
 several proofs of such kind distinction. 
 
 Having finished our dinner, if such a repast 
 merits the appellation, an aged man, darker 
 and leaner than the rest, with a sprinkling of 
 grey hairs hanging few and far between, over 
 a deep-furrowed forehead, with one eye ex- 
 tinguished, and the other small, black, and 
 fiery, drew himself on his haunches, push- 
 ing forward a large mortar containing the ap- 
 paratus for preparing coffee, forced himself 
 through our aristocratic circle, and taking up 
 a position close to the fire, went through all 
 the ceremony of roasting, bruising, and boil- 
 ing. This unregarded coffee-maker had no 
 sinecure, for our tent was fiill of visitors, and 
 it was necessary to offer a cup to each with- 
 out distinction. Much conversation followed, 
 and the simple and earnest manner of ex- 
 pressing their sentences, but without any 
 
 c 
 
18 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 rhetorical action, and the gravity of their 
 demeanour, gave an air of sincerity at least, 
 if not of dignity, to their intercourse. They 
 talked over the affairs of their tribe, their 
 losses of cattle, and the wars of their neigh- 
 bours ; but as we had travelled that day 
 fifteen hours, we had withdrawn ourselves 
 one by one to a short distance from the fire, 
 and, wrapped in our sheep-skin cloaks, had 
 fallen asleep long ere our host and his guests 
 had settled the politics of their nation. 
 
 Perhaps my readers will not object if I 
 here interrupt the narrative of my journey to 
 Djeerash, for the purpose of mentioning a 
 few of the most interesting of the laws and 
 customs of these Arabs of the mountain, 
 which we learned during the five or six days 
 we sojourned amongst them. 
 
 The tribe of the Adooans, under whose 
 protection we now were, is composed of three 
 great divisions, each commanded by its own 
 
JEEICHO TO GERAZA. 19 
 
 sheik : the name of one of whom is Sulei- 
 man, of another Deeab, and the other Pah- 
 del, our friend and conductor. The three 
 are equal in authority, and nearly so in the 
 number of their forces — unitedly, they could 
 bring into the field one thousand horsemen, 
 and a numerous body of fighting men on foot. 
 
 In addition to a lance, (the usual weapon 
 of an Arab horseman,) some had a sabre or 
 pistols. 
 
 The whole population of the tribe is from 
 ten to eleven thousand, and the territory 
 which they command extends from Djeerash 
 to the Jordan, comprising a great portion of 
 the ancient Gilead. Their wealth consists 
 chiefly in camels and horses, and in flocks of 
 sheep and goats ; but they are also, in a slight 
 degree, cultivators of the land. They are 
 richer and more civilized than the Arabs of 
 the Syrian Desert ; and they have a greater 
 reputation for bravery. The best proof of 
 
 c 2 
 
20 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 their courage is found in their wealth and 
 independence, although surrounded by war- 
 like and hostile tribes. 
 
 The sheik claims by right a fourth part of 
 the produce of the cultivated land, which 
 consists in wheat, barley, durra, and maize. 
 Their time of sowing is when the leaves fall 
 from the trees, and the harvest is in the 
 month of May. Their flocks are sheared in 
 the same month ; and at the same time of 
 year they pluck the hair from their camels to 
 construct their tents. 
 
 Each tribe protects itself by military regu- 
 lations ; they have stations of outposts, and 
 the different encampments communicate with 
 one another by established signals. In the 
 day-time, when an enemy is perceived, a lance, 
 with a handkerchief on the spear-head, is 
 placed on the highest ground near the spot 
 where the attack is expected ; and those in 
 the distance hasten to the rendezvous ; at 
 
JERICHO TO GBRAZA. 21 
 
 night they fire matchlocks to apprize the 
 camp of danger. 
 
 The sheik is despotic — he is the chief 
 judge in all disputes — he decides for peace 
 or war ; and he orders the removal of the 
 tribe from one station to another. 
 
 Moreover, he designates his successor, and 
 generally chooses amongst his sons the one 
 who . bears the best character for bravery, 
 and whom he thinks the most capable of de- 
 fending and protecting the interests of the 
 tribe. 
 
 At the death of the chief of a family, his 
 possessions in flocks and herds are divided 
 equally amongst his sons. The eldest receiv- 
 ing, in addition to the others, the tent and 
 its furniture, and the water-skins ; the daugh- 
 ters are left under the protection of their 
 brothers. 
 
 The birth of a child is not celebrated by 
 any ceremony, and the nurture of its earliest 
 
22 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 years differs in no way from that of the 
 lambs and kids belonging to its parents. 
 
 When there are in the encampment many 
 children from the age of eight to twelve 
 years, an itinerant master is obtained to 
 teach them to read, and repeat their prayers. 
 As soon as a boy acquires sufficient strength, 
 he is made to mount on horseback, an event 
 of great joy to the father, which is partici- 
 pated in by the whole tribe, because they are 
 about to have another protector of their U- 
 berty. At the age of seventeen or eighteen a 
 young man generally marries, for this purpose 
 he addresses himself to the father of the girl 
 on whom he has fixed his affections, and 
 agrees with him for the amount of the pre- 
 sent which he is to give in exchange for her 
 hand. The number of their wives is hmited 
 to four, according to the Mahommedan law ; 
 but here, as amongst the richer and more ci- 
 vilized followers of that creed, few can sup- 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 2'S 
 
 port the expenses, and still fewer the incon- 
 veniences of the Prophet's generosity. When 
 either of the party desires to be released 
 from the marriage tie, a young colt is the 
 price of separation, and the children, if any, 
 remain dependent upon the father. 
 
 When a man dies, he is buried near the 
 spot where his ancestors repose ; and the 
 whole encampment, men and women, follow 
 his corpse to the grave ; but the women only 
 attend their own sex to the tomb. 
 
 Their funeral processions are silent and de- 
 corous. Nor do they, like many of the Be- 
 dooeen tribes, hire strangers to recite the vir- 
 tues of the deceased, and to mourn aloud his 
 death with frantic lamentations. 
 
 Amongst the Arabs the difference of for- 
 tune is seldom very great ; they may almost 
 be divided into three classes — the sheik, who 
 is before all — those who have a horse — and 
 those who have not. 
 
24 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 The great ambition of a poor Arab is to 
 possess a horse ; he is then held in some es- 
 timation, because he can number himself 
 amongst the chief protectors of his tribe, 
 and can follow his sheik to battle. 
 
 The Arab on foot, who has no other arms 
 than a bad matchlock, and sometimes only a 
 club, is of much less importance ; he can 
 assist in the defence of the encampment on 
 an occasion of regular attack ; but, as he 
 cannot fly at the signal of alarm to oppose 
 the enemy, he must be contented with the 
 more ignoble part of remaining beneath his 
 tent, whilst the horseman, leaping on the 
 back of his ever-ready courser, speeds to the 
 post of danger. 
 
 If disputes are not unfrequent amongst 
 these children of nature, they rarely demand 
 the intervention of judicial authority to 
 terminate them. AH the inhabitants of the 
 same encampment are more or less united 
 
JERICHO TO GEEAZA. 25 
 
 by the ties of relationship ; and a whole 
 tribe is no other than one great family, often 
 sprung from the same stock. Thus, Avhen 
 strife arises, a brother is always at hand to 
 act as mediator ; should that resource fail in 
 producing reconciliation, the afiair is brought 
 before the chief of the encampment to which 
 the disputants belong ; and, as a last appeal, 
 which is seldom necessary, it is referred to 
 the sheik of the tribe. 
 
 In the case of theft, four times the value 
 of what is stolen must be restored. If a 
 man kills another accidentally, he must pay 
 the value of one thousand Turkish piastres 
 (about 25^.) to the nearest relative of the 
 deceased. 
 
 But, in case of intentional murder, five 
 thousand piastres is the price of blood ; and 
 if the murderer will not or cannot pay the 
 ransom, he is put to death. I asked, if a 
 child killed his pai'cnt, or a husband his wife 
 
26 EXCUESION PKOM 
 
 (crimes not uncommon in civilized countries), 
 what price would redeem such a deed 1 The 
 reply was, that their laws allotted no punish- 
 ment for a crime that was not conceivable. 
 Prisoners of war are made to redeem their 
 liberty by the sacrifice of all that they possess. 
 Their tents, and their horses, their camels, 
 and their flocks, must be given up to their 
 vanquishers ; and they are often bound to a 
 tree until an assurance has been obtained 
 that nothing has been withheld. 
 
 Mild as are the laws of these • uncivihzed 
 wanderers, they are nevertheless sufficient to 
 bind them in mutual peace and love, and to 
 afford them security in their individual pro- 
 perty ; whilst their unanimity of heart and 
 hand enables them to protect their joint 
 possessions from the assaults of their enemies. 
 
 Almost as naked and wild as the hiUs 
 which surround them, they lie down to slum- 
 ber in security when the shades of night 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 27 
 
 spread around, and they rise with the day to 
 roam in careless freedom amidst their bound- 
 less dominions ; and if we consider that the 
 feelings of humanity and of brotherly love 
 are strong and active amongst these untu- 
 tored people, and that they blend the gentler 
 affections of the heart with the nobler quali- 
 ties of virtue in an eminent degree, it must 
 be conceded that, however we may boast our 
 intellectual superiority, and the more refined 
 pleasures of civilization, their portion of 
 happiness is as great as our own. 
 
 Although these roving inhabitants of the 
 wilderness have neither temples nor taber- 
 nacles dedicated to the Prophet, nor a Shiloh 
 for a Holy Place, still they neglect not the 
 outward forms of prayer, and they are strict 
 in the observance of those religious ordi- 
 nances which do not require the intervention 
 of priests or identity of place. 
 
 If we venture to compare these denizens 
 
28 EXCURSIOJf FROM 
 
 of the Syrian mountains with the majority of 
 the inhabitants of the great cities of our own 
 favoured land, or even with the major part 
 of its rural population, — if we think of the 
 drunkenness, the vice, and the infideUty of 
 the one, and the sober, moral, and religious 
 demeanour of the other, how stands the 
 comparison 1 I fear that the unsophisticated 
 and obedient followers of an arch-impostor 
 will put to shame tens of thousands of pro- 
 fessing Christians. 
 
 The truth is, that Mahomet, like all the 
 leading charlatans of the European, as well 
 as of the Oriental world, political as well as 
 religious, has had the cunning to discern 
 that the Christian revelation contains a sys- 
 tem of morahty and of order infinitely su- 
 perior to all the boasted ethics of the hea- 
 then or of infidel philosophy. Thus, the 
 Koran, by combining religion and civil law 
 in the same code, — its borrowed precepts of 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 2.9 
 
 Christian morality are enforced by the au- 
 thority of Oriental despotism. 
 
 The day after our arrival at the camp of 
 the Arabs was the feast of the Beyram, 
 the principal of the only two religious festi- 
 vals permitted by the Arabian lawgiver. It 
 is a day of rejoicing and of mutual congra- 
 tulation, and follows immediately after the 
 great fast of the Ramazan, which is an 
 ordinance of severer self-denial than is to be 
 found in the ritual of any Christian sect. 
 
 The Ramazan lasts thirty days, during 
 which period, besides the extraordinary 
 prayers and penances which are com- 
 manded at that season, it is forbidden to 
 the faithful to put a morsel of food, or a 
 drop of water between their lips, from the 
 rising to the going down of the sun. And 
 being a moveable fast, falling sometimes in 
 the hottest season of the year, it requires no 
 small degree of faith and obedience, especially 
 
30 EXCUESION FROM 
 
 on the part of the poor, who are ohhged to 
 labour all day in a burning sun, to support 
 such painful privations. 
 
 It was an interesting sight to behold the 
 Arabs arriving from every point on their 
 beautiful mares, and dismounting before the 
 tent, to see them affectionately and fre- 
 quently embrace their Sheik and his brothers, 
 who were assembled to receive them ; con- 
 gratulating one another on having happily 
 passed through the privations of the fast just 
 terminated, and wishing each other the full 
 awards of their rigorous and painful obedi- 
 ence to the commands of their Prophet. 
 
 They did not forget the strangers in the 
 tent — the friends of their Sheik, but came 
 and saluted us with a frank and friendly 
 hand. 
 
 Fahdel and his brothers, in their turn, 
 went to visit their neighbours, and to inter- 
 change the compliments of the day with 
 
JERICHO TO GEEAZA. 31 
 
 Deeab and his chiefs, whose encampment was 
 not far off. 
 
 Scarcely had we returned to our tent, 
 after witnessing these interesting ceremonies, 
 when Abdullah, a brother of F^hdel, rode at 
 speed into the centre of the camp, and, 
 checking his horse in front of our tent, 
 hastily informed the Sheik that the outposts 
 of the tribe were attacked, and, without 
 waiting for orders or reply, galloped back in 
 the direction from whence he came. The 
 Sheik seized his lance, and, springing on his 
 horse's back, rode after his brother, shouting 
 for the horsemen to follow. In a moment all 
 around was bustle and confusion ; those who 
 had horses were seen mounting and dashing 
 at speed in the direction of the alarm, whilst 
 the herdsmen, assisted by the women and 
 children, were driving the cattle and the 
 flocks in the opposite direction for security. 
 
 As for myself and companions, we were 
 
32 EXCURSION FEOM 
 
 not obliged, for want of arms, to submit to 
 the indignity of being robbed and rudely 
 handled, and our lives imperilled, as hap- 
 pened to us in the Desert of Palmyra, by a 
 fierce attack of Bedooeen Arabs, a short time, 
 previous to the incident I am now describing. 
 We now followed our friends, as well as our 
 less spirited horses would permit, to assist in 
 the defence of their camp ; and pursuing 
 the track of the horsemen over some low 
 hills for about a quarter of an hour, we 
 came up with our Sheik suri'ounded by a 
 strong party of his Arabs, who were consult- 
 ing on the expediency of pursuing a party 
 of an adverse tribe, who, taking advantage 
 of a day devoted to enjoyment, had fallen 
 suddenly on the flanks of the Adooans, hop- 
 ing to seize some of their cattle ere alarm or 
 resistance could be made ; but, finding that 
 they were thwarted in their expectations, had 
 fled hastily away. 
 
JEEICHO TO GEEAZA. 33 
 
 F4hdel observed our approacli with evi- 
 dent signs of pleasure, and to reward us for 
 the zeal we had shown in his cause, paid us 
 the compliment of saying, that if he had one 
 hundred horsemen, as well armed and with 
 as good will as ourselves, they would not fear 
 all the Anazees of the desert. 
 
 The ceremonies of the day having been 
 fulfilled, and the tranquillity of the camp 
 insured, we proposed to F^hdel that we 
 should pursue our journey to Djeerash with- 
 out further delay ; to which he at first ob- 
 jected, observing, that, in consequence of the 
 threatened attack on the outposts of the 
 camp that morning, and from some circum- 
 stances which he had learned during his 
 visits to the chiefs of the tribe, he had rea- 
 son to think that the country through which 
 we were about to travel was not entirely free 
 from danger ; and he, therefore, suggested 
 that it would be better for us to remain 
 
 D 
 
34 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 another day in security beneath his tent, 
 that he might obtain more certain informa- 
 tion respecting the probabihty of our meet- 
 ing with difficulty on our way. But, as we 
 had often suffered on former occasions by the 
 procrastinating character of our Arab con- 
 ductors, we replied, that if there was any 
 danger in our undertaking, we were ready 
 to share it with him and the companions he 
 should think proper to select for our escort ; 
 that we were well armed, and felt ourselves 
 secure under his guidance. When he saw 
 that we were in earnest in our wishes to de- 
 part, he promised, that " ere the sun should 
 sink behind the western hills we should be 
 seated in our saddles ;" adding, that " he had 
 promised his friend, the Aga of Jericho, to 
 conduct us in safety to Djeerash, and, God 
 willing, he would fulfil his word, or his life 
 should pay the forfeit." 
 
 A more plentiful, but not more dehcate 
 
JEEICHO TO GEEAZA. 35 
 
 meal, than that of which we had partaken 
 the day before, was prepared previous to our 
 departure. A young camel had been killed 
 in the night by wolves, the rescued carcase 
 of which, cut into pieces, and roasted on the 
 live coals, constituted the only viands. The 
 frequent arrival of new guests, chiefly con- 
 sisting of the elders of the tribe, prolonged 
 the repast till the hour of our departure. 
 And whilst the last rays of the sun still 
 lingered on the summits of the surrounding 
 mountains, we were, as our chief had pro- 
 mised, " seated in our saddles." Six horse- 
 men, each armed with a single spear, were 
 chosen to accompany us, and Fahdel, plac- 
 ing himself at their head, led the way across 
 the hilly country to the eastward. 
 
 Our path at first conducted us through 
 several encampments of the tribe ; the cat- 
 tle and the flocks were collected together in 
 front of the tents, and fires, for the prepara- 
 
 D 2 
 
36 EXCURSION PROM 
 
 tion of the evening meal, were beginning 
 to blaze within. The Arabs came forth, and 
 greeted our party as it passed, and expressed 
 their wishes for our safe return. 
 
 For some time the twilight enabled us in- 
 distinctly to observe the character of the 
 country through which we journeyed. Low 
 hills, thickly planted with trees, and broad 
 winding valleys clothed with rich pasture, 
 seemed to extend in every direction. 
 
 We rode almost in silence till midnight, 
 when our chief proposed that we should halt 
 till the morning. The spot where we alighted 
 was on the brow of a hill, skirted by a wood 
 which screened us from a chilly wind that 
 had began to blow with considerable vio- 
 lence ; having secured our horses in the 
 usual manner, by staking them to the 
 ground, we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks 
 and slept for four hours without disturbance, 
 except that on one occasion, an Arab, who 
 
JEEICHO TO GERAZA. 37 
 
 was on the watch, observing two wolves pass 
 near our party, interrupted our slumbers by 
 his strange outcry to scare the animals 
 away* 
 
 At dawn we continued our journey. [No- 
 thing can exceed the magnificence of the 
 rising day in an eastern climate — especially 
 in the mountainous districts, where no mists 
 or exhalations, generated by the first influ- 
 ence of the sun, ascend and conceal the 
 purity and brilliancy of the heavens, but one 
 broad blaze of yellow lights up the eastern 
 horizon, blending by degrees with the deep 
 blue ether of the zenith. 
 
 The morning air was pure and fresh, and 
 our Arabs were in high spirits ; often, when 
 the ground was level, they would dash for- 
 
 * Wolves prowling in the evening appear to have 
 been common. See Jeremiah v. 6 : " A wolf of the 
 evening shall spoil them." " Their horses fiercer 
 than evening wolves," — Hab. i. 8. 
 
t8 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 vard and engage one another in mock fight, 
 ;hecking their horses in speed, and turning 
 )n their adversary when pursued with incon- 
 ;eivable rapidity. Sometimes we exchanged 
 )ur horses and arms with them, and they 
 were highly amused at our vain attempts to 
 mitate their adroitness in the use of the 
 ance, and seemed much pleased at their own 
 superiority in the management of that wea- 
 Don. We thus rode gaily on for several 
 lOurs through the same undulating and pas- 
 iUre country as we had traversed the pre- 
 vious night, without meeting any Arabs or 
 heir flocks, or any object to attract our at- 
 ention, except a wild boar of extraordinary 
 ize, which was seen not far from our path ; 
 s there was no wood or other cover very 
 ear, we endeavoured to ride him down and 
 ring him to bay, but he beat us with great 
 a,se, especially up hill. 
 We now began to descend into a deep 
 
JERICHO TO GBEAZA. 39 
 
 and narrow valley, called Ouadi el Zacca, 
 running in a direction nearly north and 
 south ; a small stream flowed through the 
 centre, shaded by laurustinus and other 
 shrubs. Having crossed this valley, we soon 
 came to a second still more profound, and 
 divided also by a rapid stream, which, we 
 were told, was the river of Djeerash. 
 
 We here took a more northern direction, 
 and continued on the acclivity parallel with 
 the gorge, until we arrived, after seven hours' 
 riding, at the object of our search. 
 
 The few travellers who had visited the 
 ruins of Geraza (or Djeerash) had described 
 them as being equal in extent and magnifi- 
 cence to the most celebrated remains of an- 
 tiquity ; and they had even been brought 
 into comparison with Palmyra. Our expecta- 
 tions, therefore, were raised to a high degree, 
 and we urged forward to enjoy the first im- 
 pression, which the sudden view of a pros- 
 
40 EXCURSION" FEOM 
 
 trate city in the midst of a wilderness is 
 powerfully calculated to produce. 
 
 Geraza stood on two corresponding plains 
 divided by a deep and narrow valley, through 
 which flowed a rapid stream, having its ori- 
 gin from fountains in the centre of the town. 
 Two bridges of stone, connected the opposite 
 sides, but the principal monuments and 
 buildings of the ancient city occupied the 
 western bank of the river, presenting, as we 
 viewed them from a slight elevation, a beauti- 
 ful and imposing appearance. 
 
 A triumphal arch, gateways, theatres, tem- 
 ples, long lines of columns, and architectural 
 masses met the eye over a wide extent, 
 stretching to the northward. Vast frag- 
 ments of ruined edifices had rolled down the 
 sides of the valley which intersected the city, 
 and were half concealed by wild shrubs and 
 vegetation, amidst which the streamlet found 
 a difficult and noisy channel. 
 
JERICHO TO GEEAZA. 41 
 
 The first object which engaged our atten- 
 tion, on approaching the city from -the south, 
 was a triumphal arch standing alone at a 
 short distance without the walls ; its front 
 was ornamented with four columns of slight 
 proportions, the shafts of which, springing 
 from a design of palm-leaves, seemed to stand 
 on inverted capitals, placed on tall and slen- 
 der pedestals ; the upper portion of the co- 
 lumns were broken, and the crowning capi- 
 tals, with portions of entablature, were de- 
 stroyed, and lying in fragments around. 
 
 The architecture of this arch was Corin- 
 thian ; it was probably erected in commemo- 
 ration of some great event connected with 
 the welfare of the city ; or as a triumphal 
 gateway for the passage of some victorious 
 commander and his army. 
 
 Between this monument and the walls of 
 the city, to the right, there was an extensi^'e 
 oval exca^'ation, measuring about three hun- 
 
42 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 dred and eighty feet, by one hundred and 
 fifty, the sides of which were supported by a 
 wall of fine workmanship, surrounded with a 
 moulding of wrought stone. This vast arena 
 at first suggested the idea of a stadium or 
 hippodrome, but, on more minute examina- 
 tion, it was evident that it was intended for 
 a naumachia, or theatre for the exhibition of 
 a sea-fight, the channels by means of which 
 it was filled with water being still observable. 
 
 Passing onwards we entered the precincts 
 of the ancient city by a gateway, great part 
 of which was destroyed, but enough remained 
 to show that its original design was similar 
 to the triumphal arch already described. No 
 more than substructions of the wall on either 
 side of this gateway were discernible. 
 
 Our observation was now directed towards 
 a magnificent oval colonnade, fifty-eight co- 
 lumns of which were standing with their en- 
 tablature ; on some of them were cut, in 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 4o 
 
 Greek characters, the names of individuals 
 by whose munificence they were erected. 
 From this colonnade a double range of co- 
 lumns was continued in a straight hue run- 
 ning parallel with the banks of the river, ap- 
 parently marking the direction of the princi- 
 pal street. 
 
 Before penetrating farther into the town, we 
 turned to the left to visit a theatre and tem- 
 ple, which occupied a commanding situation 
 immediately within the walls, on the south- 
 east angle of the city. 
 
 The temple was of large dimensions, and 
 had been surrounded by a peristyle of Corin- 
 thian columns, which were all fallen, but 
 the walls of the temple were almost entire. 
 Judging from the prostrate fragments of the 
 frieze, the cornice, and the capitals, this tem- 
 ple must have been a beautiful and splendid 
 ornament to the city. 
 
44 EXCURSION FEOM 
 
 The theatre was close to the temple, si- 
 tuated on a gentle declivity, its cavea was 
 partly excavated in the ground, and partly 
 constructed of masonry ; it was shaped like 
 a horse-shoe, being a segment of a circle, 
 about one-tenth more than a semicircle ; it 
 contained thirty rows of seats, divided into 
 two series by a broad circular platform, or 
 open corridor, from which small flights of 
 steps, disposed in equi-distant radii, ascended 
 and descended for the convenience of the 
 spectators to reach their stations. Sufficient 
 portions of the orchestra and scene remained 
 to show the original plan of the theatre, and 
 that much labour had been bestowed on its 
 architectural decorations. 
 
 On quitting the theatre we returned to the 
 oval colonnade, and pursued our way along 
 the imaginary street before-mentioned, having 
 a range of columns on each side. These co- 
 
JERICHO TO GERAZA. 45 
 
 lumns were for the most part erect : they 
 were of the Corinthian order, but not uni- 
 form in their proportions or execution. 
 
 At the distance of about two hundred 
 yards we came to a point of intersection with 
 another street ; at each of the angles was a 
 massive pedestal of a square form, which had 
 either been surmounted with columns, some 
 fragments of which, of a large size, were 
 lying beneath, or they might have supported 
 an elevation in the form of a double tri- 
 umphal arch or gateway. To the right, this 
 intersecting street, which was also orna- 
 mented with an avenue of columns, conducted 
 to a bridge ; to the left, it was lost amidst 
 mouldering heaps of fallen buildings. Beyond 
 this point we noticed three columns of the 
 Corinthian order, of larger proportions and 
 finer execution than those around ; a fourth 
 was lying on the ground. The pillars had 
 evidently constituted the fagade of a small 
 
46 EXCURSION FEOM 
 
 prostyle temple of a semicircular form, which 
 had its front towards the street. 
 
 Continuing forwards in the same direc- 
 tion, we came to a gateway on the left hand, 
 the frieze and cornice of which was highly 
 wrought and richly ornamented ; this led to 
 a flight of steps conducting to an elevated 
 platform, on which were the remains of a 
 large temple, the walls of which were entire : 
 it had been encircled with a double peristyle 
 of Corinthian columns, but they were almost 
 all fallen to the ground, and lay scattered 
 amidst vast fragments of the other parts of 
 the building. Opposite to this temple we 
 observed the ruins of a Christian church of 
 the middle ages : eight columns, which had 
 assisted to support the interior nave, were 
 standing. 
 
 At the northern extremity of this magni- 
 ficent street was another gateway, very simi- 
 lar in design to that by which we had en- 
 
JEEICHO TO QEEAZA. 47 
 
 tered the city, and connected on each side to 
 the walls. 
 
 The ruins of many more public buildings 
 than I have mentioned, clusters of columns, 
 subterraneous galleries, and monumental struc- 
 tures attracted our observation on all sides, a 
 description of which would require much 
 more space than this short sketch of an ex- 
 cursion to Geraza is intended to occupy ; but 
 I have said enough to show the former gran- 
 deur and importance of that far distant city, 
 amidst the splendid remains of which we 
 wandered a whole day with amazement and 
 delight. 
 
 In the extent and number of its monu- 
 ments, and in the picturesque beauty of its 
 situation, Geraza may justly claim the first 
 place amongst the ruins of the ancient cities 
 of Syria ; but it cannot challenge a compari- 
 son with the mighty Temple of the Sun and 
 the giant pillars of Palmyra. Moreover, the 
 
48 EXCTJESIOK FEOM 
 
 chief part of the buildings of Geraza are 
 constructed of a dark sombre-coloured stone,* 
 which gives them an air of heaviness, and 
 destroys the light and shades of their archi- 
 tectural decorations. But in the city of the 
 " Desert Queen" all is brilliant as the sun 
 which glitters on its walls, and the tints as soft 
 and delicate as the sand which surrounds them. 
 It was our intention to pass the night at 
 Djeerash, that we might complete our imper- 
 fect examination of some of the most inter- 
 esting monuments more at our leisure the 
 following day ; but having ascertained from 
 some Arabs of the Adooan tribe, who dwelt 
 at Djeerash at that season of the year, to col- 
 lect the produce of a few patches of arable 
 land in the vicinity, that a strong party of 
 the warlike tribe of the Benneseukers were 
 encamped not far off — and as it was very 
 probable that,, if they should become ac- 
 ■■■■ A species of trapi'ock. 
 
JERIOHO TO GEEAZA. 49 
 
 quainted with our situation, and the object 
 of our journey, they would attack and plun- 
 der our party — ^it was determined by our 
 chief that we should quit the neighbourhood 
 of Djeerash that night. Accordingly, when 
 the evening advanced, we prepared for our 
 departure. 
 
 On leaving the ruins we took a direction 
 incUniijg to the south, and journeyed for se- 
 veral hours, following the windings of the valley 
 in which the little river of Djeerash flowed. 
 At midnight we halted on the margin of the 
 stream, and bivouacked until the morning in 
 security ; but we were unable to close our 
 eyes in sleep, owing to the incessant howHng 
 of jackals, attracted to our station by the 
 smell of some camel's flesh which we had 
 roasted for our supper, on a fire that stiU 
 blazed in the centre of our party. These 
 creatures, although as diminutive and, even 
 when collected in numbers, as little to be 
 
 E 
 
50 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 feared as foxes, are far more troublesome to 
 the weary traveller than animals of a larger 
 and fiercer kind ; there is something so wild 
 and piteous in their cry, and they prowl so 
 near and fearlessly around him, that no fatigue 
 is proof against the excitation of their noisy 
 approach. 
 
 We commenced our journey the following 
 morning as soon as the sun had begun to' 
 streak with a golden tinge the summits of 
 the distant hills. Having crossed the stream, 
 we ascended its western bank, and proceeded 
 in a direction a httle west of south, for the 
 purpose of visiting the ruins of Amman, the 
 ancient capital of the " Children of Ammon," 
 before we returned to the camp of our chief 
 
 Our path, which had hitherto traversed 
 the territory of Deeab, one of the princes of 
 the Adooans, now began to skirt the district 
 of a hostile tribe. F4hdel here made our 
 party halt, and desired us to look to our fire- 
 
JBEICHO TO AMMAN. 51 
 
 arms, and to be silent and watchful, observing 
 that we might be surprised and attacked in 
 the woods and defiles through which we were 
 about to pass : and he advised us to keep 
 close together, " for," said he, " a single 
 Arab, springing from an ambuscade, may 
 dash across our path, and strike with unerring 
 spear some unwary straggler of the party." 
 
 As we advanced the country became more 
 wild and beautiful, our track winding in and 
 out amidst thick forests which clad the base 
 of lofty hills, whose bare and broken sum- 
 mits towered above their dense vesture of 
 wood. Sometimes, turning round a steep 
 angle, the trees would break away, and leave 
 the eye to roam over a wide extent of rich 
 and varied country. But no inhabitants nor 
 habitations, no flocks nor herds, no trace of 
 man of present or past times met the view 
 in these luxuriant regions — once the country 
 of the giant kings of Bashan — once the fer- 
 
 E 2 
 
52 EXCUESIOK FROM 
 
 tile hills of Grilead, and the rich pasture lands 
 of the numerous tribes of Eeuben and of Gad, 
 and the country of the " ten cities " of the 
 Roman conquests, east of the river Jordan ! 
 We had ridden for six hours with more 
 than ordinary speed, and our horses, as well 
 as ourselves, stood much in need of refresh- 
 ment and repose. The heat, too, had become 
 oppressive ; our chief therefore proposed that 
 we should halt for an hour. 
 
 A grove of lofty trees in the middle of a 
 grassy plain not far from our path, offered a 
 refreshing shade, and at the same time secu- 
 rity against sudden attack. Here, having 
 dismounted, we threw ourselves beneath the 
 dense foliage of the trees ; a streamlet of 
 purest water trickled through the lawn at our 
 feet, some draughts of which, and a few 
 handsful of cold boiled rice, soon renewed 
 our strength, and enabled us to continue our 
 journey. 
 
JERICHO TO AMMAN. 53 
 
 Whilst reposing in this delightM spot, an 
 incident occurred which placed the character 
 of our Arab conductors in an interesting 
 point of view. One of the party, a younger 
 brother of our chief, had been always re- 
 markably silent and reserved, and he had 
 held no converse with his brother during the 
 whole of our journey. This young man, 
 whose name was Hahmet, was now seated 
 apart from our little group, holding the bri- 
 dle of his horse with one hand, and with the 
 other plucking the grass and scattering it 
 carelessly around him like a man suffering 
 under some mental vexation. 
 
 Whilst thus secluded and unobservant, one 
 of his companions, the eldest of the party, 
 approached him, and taking him by the hand, 
 led him reluctantly to the Sheik, who rose up 
 and received him with some degree of stern- 
 iiess. The brothers regarded each other for 
 some moments in silence, then, rushing into 
 
54 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 each others arms, cordially embraced. From 
 that moment a new spirit seemed to have 
 been awakened in our Arabs, no sooner were 
 we mounted to proceed, than they showed 
 their satisfaction at the reconciliation which 
 had taken place, by galloping and skirmish- 
 ing in loud, and sportive contention. The 
 young Hahmet especially betrayed, by his 
 wild and joyous behaviour, how heavy a bur- 
 den had been removed from his heart. 
 
 The circumstances which gave rise to the 
 scene I have described were simply these : — 
 on setting out on our journey to Djeerash, 
 Hahmet signified his desire to be one of our 
 escort, but his brother, the Sheik, would not 
 consent to his wishes, reminding him that the 
 enemies of his tribe were hovering about the 
 camp, and that he ought to remain at home 
 to defend his family and his possessions in 
 case of attack. 
 
 The disappointment of the young chief 
 
JEKICHO TO AMMAN. 55 
 
 was very great, and he made use of some 
 rude words in reply, which so offended his 
 brother, that in a moment of anger, he struck 
 him, and forbade him to quit the camp, and 
 we departed without him ; but on the fol- 
 lowing morning when we rose from our bi- 
 vouac to proceed on our journey, young 
 Hahmet was amongst the number of our 
 Arabs. As we were then ignorant of what 
 had taken place between the brothers, we 
 cordially welcomed his arrival ; but his sub- 
 sequent silence and reserve were a frequent 
 subject of conversation amongst our party. 
 
 We had not continued our journey long ere 
 the foremost of our party checked his horse, 
 and, retreating hastily to the centre of our 
 troop, informed us that the prints of horses' 
 feet, fresh and numerous, were observable in 
 the path we were pursuing. At this news 
 our Arabs became very uneasy ; having 
 halted, they conversed amongst themselves 
 
56 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 more earnestly thau they were ■wont to do : 
 they knew that war was raging between two 
 tribes which occupied the country in the vi- 
 cinity of our route, and they conjectured 
 that we must inevitably faU in with some of 
 the contending parties. The Sheik ordered 
 two of his men to precede us at a short dis- 
 tance, and to give immediate information on 
 perceiving the enemy ; for such it was con- 
 cluded must be the horsemen whose track 
 had just been discovered. The Arabs flour- 
 ishing their lances, brought them into a posi- 
 tion adapted for instant use, and pressed 
 onwards in close phalanx. 
 
 We proceeded for some time without meet- 
 ing any more substantial proofs of danger, 
 when suddenly the advanced posts halted, 
 and without looking back, waved their lances 
 for us to hasten forwards : on joining them, 
 they pointed to about a dozen horsemen 
 riding at an easy canter up the slope of a hill 
 
JERICHO TO AMMAN. 57 
 
 at a short distance before us. A few words 
 of encouragement passed rapidly between 
 our Arabs, and in an instant they dashed 
 forwards, shouting the war-cry to the ad- 
 vancing party. 
 
 In numbers our apparent foe was Kttle su- 
 perior to our own, but our fire-arms added 
 much to our strength and confidence. The 
 Sheik had given us strict orders to keep in 
 the rear, and not to intermeddle until we 
 should see their lances crossed with those of 
 the party we pursued, lest we should use our 
 fire-arms before it was ascertained whether 
 they were friends or foes. Unfortunately our 
 hopes of witnessing an Arab skirmish were 
 once more disappointed. 
 
 The party we followed, on discovering our 
 approach, faced about, and placing their lances 
 in rest, waited on the brow of the hill to re- 
 ceive us with the advantage of ground. We 
 galloped up with breathless speed to break 
 
58 EXCUESIOK FROM 
 
 their line, but before a blow was aimed, we 
 were recognized as friends. 
 
 Both parties dismounted as a sign of peace, 
 and after the usual forms of salutation had 
 been observed, seated themselves on the 
 ground face to face, and mutually explained 
 the circumstances which had conducted them 
 to that part of the country. Our own story 
 was soon told, and the presence of infidel 
 strangers corroborated the statement. 
 
 The Arabs we had overtaken with so much 
 suspicion and anxiety, belonged to the tribe 
 of Suleiman, one of the Adooan princes. 
 They informed us that, on the previous day, 
 a strong body of Anazees (a fierce and wan- 
 dering race of Bedooeens, the terror of the 
 Syrian deserts) had fallen suddenly on one 
 of their principal encampments, and before a 
 sufficient reinforcement could be summoned 
 from the more distant stations to repel the 
 attack, the Adooans were defeated and plun- 
 
JEEICHO TO AMMAN^. 59 
 
 dered. Eight horsemen, and eleven footmen, 
 were killed, and forty camels, besides many 
 horses, were driven away in triumph by the 
 conquerors. 
 
 Suleiman, on being acquainted with the 
 insult offered to his tribe, instantly rallied a 
 hundred of the boldest and swiftest of his 
 Arabs, and set out to avenge the blood of his 
 children, and to redeem the honour, if not 
 the possessions, which they had lost. 
 
 He came up with the An^zees fatigued 
 with the exertions of their enterprise, and 
 delayed by the difficulty of conducting the 
 camels and horses which they had seized. 
 
 Finding it was in vain to contend against 
 foes so many and" so vigorous, the Anazees, 
 after a slight resistance, deserted their spoil, 
 and escaped to the recesses of the surround- 
 ing hills, but not before sixteen had paid the 
 forfeit of their lives for their rash under- 
 taking. 
 
60 EXCURSION PROM 
 
 The Arabs with whom we now conversed 
 were in search of the camels and horses which 
 had been released from their Bedooeen cap- 
 tors, and which, taking advantage of their 
 temporary freedom, had wandered wherever 
 pastm-e and seclusion invited. 
 
 The object which both parties had in view 
 having been thus explained, we all rose from 
 the ground, and, exchanging the salutation of 
 peace, remounted our horses, and renewed 
 our respective expeditions. They struck into 
 a diiferent path, and were soon lost to our 
 view amongst the woods and hills. We con- 
 tinued our journey to Amman. 
 
 From time to time we observed some 
 camels grazing tranquilly in the grassy val- 
 leys near our path, probably a part of the 
 locomotive plunder of the An^zees. These 
 were the only evidences, besides a bridle, a 
 broken lance, and the rude turban of an 
 Arab, clotted with blood, which met our eye, 
 
JEEICHO TO AMMAN. 61 
 
 of the contention and slaughter of the pre- 
 vious day in that part of the wilderness. 
 
 The evening was far advanced before we 
 came to Amman. Some herdsmen, who had 
 taken up their abode for the night amongst 
 the ruins of the ancient city, were greatly 
 alarmed at our approach, and advanced to 
 meet us in a hostile manner, supposing that 
 a party of horsemen could have no other ob- 
 j-ect than plunder ; but when they found that 
 we were men of their own tribe, and that 
 Fdhdel himself was with us, they came 
 forward to salute their chief and welcome our 
 arrival. 
 
 We had journeyed a whole day beneath a 
 burning sun, but the continual expectation of 
 attack had kept up our spirits and destroyed 
 fatigue. That excitement having now sub- 
 sided, we felt much exhausted, and when we 
 had eaten of the provisions with which the 
 shepherds of Amman kindly supplied us, we 
 
62 EXCURSION' FROM 
 
 slept soundly till the morning dawned, in the 
 arena of an ancient theatre, surrounded by 
 camels and herds. 
 
 " And I will make Rabbah a stable for 
 camels, and the Ammonites a couching place 
 for flocks."* 
 
 Amman, or Rabbah, the chief city of the 
 Ammonites, occupied the centre of a rich 
 valley divided by a stream, which is tranquil 
 and shallow in the summer, but in the winter 
 becomes deep and impetuous. 
 
 " Wherefore gloriest thou (Amman) in thy 
 valleys, thy flowing valleys ?"t 
 
 The ruins of Amman at present existing 
 show that it was once a large and magnifi- 
 cent city. 
 
 A theatre of extraordinary size and pre- 
 servation, the remains of temples, of a church, 
 and of many public edifices, are found on the 
 southern side of the stream ; but the chief 
 * Ezek. XXV. 5. t Jeremiah xlix. 4. 
 
JERICHO TO AMMAN. 63 
 
 portion of the ancient town was situated on 
 the northern bank, where the plain of the 
 valley is broader. 
 
 A bridge of stone, consisting of a single 
 arch, united the opposite sides of the city. 
 
 The banks of the river appear to have 
 been paved, and its waters now glide over 
 fragments of sculptured marble, which are 
 visible beneath its surface. 
 
 The loftiest of the hills which bound the 
 northern side of the valley is crowned by 
 ruins of a castle, probably the work of 
 the middle ages, based on more ancient foun- 
 dations. 
 
 The substructions of the ancient walls may 
 be traced throughout a great part of their 
 circumference, crossing the valley and en- 
 closing the hills on either side. 
 
 » 
 
 Without the precincts of the city we ob- 
 served many tombs, some excavated in the 
 
64 EXCURSION PROM 
 
 sides of the hills, and some constructed 
 wholly of masonry. It is not my intention 
 here to describe more minutely the ruins of 
 Amman, but I cannot avoid recalling to the 
 mind of my reader how perfectly the fate of 
 Rabbah and of the Ammonites is in accord- 
 ance with the prophecies of the sacred his- 
 torians. Indeed every step which a traveller 
 advances in that devoted land is confirma- 
 tive of the truth of the Bible history. 
 
 The ruins of its ancient cities attest its 
 recorded power and population ; ' its hills 
 clothed with forests, and its valleys with the 
 richest pasture, prove the productiveness of 
 its soU, and that it would stUl abound in 
 corn, and flow with milk, and oil, and wine, 
 was not the curse of God stUl upon it. 
 
 It is trodden by the foot of the wanderer, 
 but it is no man's inheritance. It knows not 
 the plough, and receives no seed. The 
 
JEEICHO TO AMMAN. 65 
 
 flocks which fatten on its surface are the 
 prey of the robber, and their possessors are 
 cut off and carried into captivity. 
 
 " I will deliver thee (Amman) to the men 
 
 of the East for a possession They 
 
 shall eat thy fruit and drink thy milk." * 
 
 Another long day's journey through a wil- 
 derness abounding in picturesque beauty and 
 variety brought us once more to the chief 
 station of the Adooans, and tents of our 
 conductors ; every one came out to meet us 
 as we approached, expressing great joy at 
 our return. 
 
 •We had been absent longer than they 
 had expected, and so great were their fears 
 concerning our safety, that a large party had 
 determined to set out the next morning in 
 search of us. 
 
 The reports which had reached them of 
 the attacks of the An^zees upon Suleiman, 
 
 * Ezekiel xxv. 4. 
 
66 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 their ally, had much increased their alarm at 
 our delay ; moreover, their own camp had 
 been surprised the previous night by robbers, 
 who had succeeded in obtaining possession of 
 three camels and a valuable mare, before 
 they were discovered and repulsed. 
 
 We passed the day following with our 
 friends, and were permitted to enter freely 
 into their tents, and to converse with their 
 women. This privilege was not likely to be 
 abused, at least by those who consider 
 beauty as the chief attractive quality of the 
 daughters of Eve. Their clothes consisted 
 of a cotton shirt with a girdle, and a robe 
 of the same form and materials, hanging 
 loosely over it. Their hair was plentiful, and 
 bound on the head with strings of worsted. 
 Their forms were erect and well-turned, but 
 their persons were much neglected ; yet 
 their love of finery and admiration was not 
 the less. Fortunately we had brought with 
 
JBKICHO TO AMMAIf. 67 
 
 US a few trifles from Jerusalem, such as 
 glass bracelets and beads, which we gave, 
 according to the best of our judgment, to the 
 prettiest amongst them. 
 
 I was much struck with the silent and 
 sombre demeanour of our friends, which, 
 harmonizing with the wild and deserted 
 scenery around, gave an air of repose, if not 
 of sadness, to their character. I observed 
 no evidences of domestic enjoyment, no 
 demonstrative fondness for their children, or 
 pride in introducing them to our notice. 
 How far the pleasures of the imagination 
 are indulged by these descendants of the 
 olden world it is difficult to conceive. If, 
 in their converse with one another, they ex- 
 patiate on the wonders of the creation, and 
 the beauties of the external world, — if they 
 discourse eloquently upon the feelings which 
 engender hope and love, and excite to mar- 
 
68 EXCUESION PEOM 
 
 tial glory, — the stranger who wanders 
 amongst them perceives it not. 
 
 Looking, not to the past for precedent, or 
 to the future for encouragement, their am- 
 bition and their hopes seem not to extend 
 beyond the grave. They honour the re- 
 membrance of their dead from feehngs of 
 affection, not for their recorded prowess 
 and the benefits they had conferred on the 
 commonwealth ; self-preservation and pas- 
 sive enjoyment is the day-tenour of their 
 lives. 
 
 Nevertheless, there was much to make me 
 believe that this cannot long remain the con- 
 dition of these interesting people. Their 
 expressive and benignant physiognomies, 
 their manly forms, and the configuration of 
 their heads, prove them to be of a higher rank 
 in the scale of humanity than the subtle and 
 stunted inhabitants of the sandy desert. 
 
JEEICHO TO AMMAN. 69 
 
 They only await some call to a nobler and 
 more intellectual existence. Their capaci- 
 ties are ripe for instruction, — their hearts 
 are already formed in a soft and pliant 
 mould. 
 
 Fdrhdel had undertaken to deliver us 
 safely back into the hands of the Aga of 
 Jericho. Accordingly, on the second morn- 
 ing after our return to the camp of the 
 Adooans, we were summoned before the sun 
 had risen, by the same party which had 
 accompanied us to Djeerash. 
 
 And as the herdsmen were unloosing 
 their camels and driving their flocks to the 
 hills, we commenced our journey to the west- 
 ward. 
 
 Eefreshing breezes moderated the heat of 
 a day unusually warm in those elevated re- 
 gions, until we began to descend into the 
 Valley of the Jordan ; but when we ex- 
 changed the mountain air, and the green 
 
70 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 carpet of the hills for the white and arid 
 soil spread out beneath a still and sultry sky, 
 our conductors as well as ourselves began 
 to complain of fatigue. 
 
 It was evening before "we reached the 
 banks of the Jordan ; being much exhausted 
 and heated by our long ride, we were un- 
 able to resist the temptation and luxury of 
 bathing ; and, instead of following the more 
 prudent example of our guides, who forded 
 the river on horseback, we plunged into the 
 stream, and swam to the opposite shore. 
 Two hours more brought us to Jericho, 
 where we found the Governor anxiously 
 waiting our return ; for the time of our ex- 
 pected absence had been lengthened by 
 several days. " I doubted not," said he, 
 "the honour and faith of Fdhdel and his 
 Arabs, but I thought of the enemies and 
 robbers who abounded in the land you had 
 gone to ^isit." 
 
JERICHO TO AMMAN. 71 
 
 The time had now arrived for taking- 
 leave of our friends : after so short an ac- 
 quaintance, and the faliilment of a bargain, 
 in the civihzed world, a formal salutation 
 and a heartless, adieu would have made 
 up the parting scene ; but not so with 
 these barbarians, — tears stood in their eyes 
 when they took our hands, and prayed that 
 God might bless us, our parents, and chil- 
 dren ! 
 
 In them self-interest had not yet frozen 
 up the springs of the heart, nor taught them 
 to despise and conceal the kindlier feelings 
 of our nature. If they were fierce and re- 
 vengeful in war and hatred, they were yet 
 more sincere and gentle in peace and friend- 
 ship. 
 
 We now turned our horses towards Jeru- 
 salem, and they rode back to their native 
 hills and savage freedom. 
 
 When the links of virtue shall become 
 
72 EXCUESIOlir FEOM JERICHO. 
 
 more numerous than those of vice in the 
 chains of civilization, then, and not till 
 then, may the Adooans wear our boasted 
 bonds. 
 
 G. H. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED By G. J. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. 
 
January, 1851. 
 
 A LIST OF BOOKS 
 
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