Thom^^o/s HAj^lDY-BonK' 01' THK j^lowei^Gai^jei^ Fifth Eoniof/ i^eto gorb S>taff College of Sfgriculture at €avncU Unibcrsitp Sttiaca, J?. B. ILibvavp LIBRARY FLORICULTURE DEPARTMENT • GORMELL L;Niv::RoITY ITHACA, NEW YORK Cornell University Library SB 453.T46 Handy book of the flower-garden, being pr iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinii, 3 1924 002 827 578 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002827578 HANDY BOOK THE FLOWEK-aAEDEN ' Nature, in her cnltivated trim, Dressed to his taste, inviting him abroad- Can he ■^"ant occupation wlio has these?" HANDY BOOK THE FLOWEE - GAEDEN BEING PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE PROPAGATION, CULTURE, AND ARRANGEMENT OP HARDY AND HALF- HARDY PLANTS IN FL0WBR-6ABDENS ALL THE YEAR ROUND BY DAVID THOMSON AUTHOR OF * A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTURE OF THE PINE-APPLE,' 'FRUIT-CULTURE UNDER GLASS," ETC. FIFTH EDITION WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBUEGH AND LONDON MDCCCXCIII s PREFACE TO NEW EDITION. The idea that prompted the pubhcation of the first edition of this Handy Book — namely, that a want existed for such a practical work on Mower- Gardening — has been amply justified by the fact that the instructions contained in the several editions of the work have been widely appreciated and acted upon. With the lapse of time, Flower-Gardening has greatly extended among all classes of the community ; and in order to place the book within the reach of the humblest, it has been decided, in publishing this, the fourth edition, to present it at a reduced price. In doing so, the author is happy to be able to convey his instructions in a bold and easily read type without lessening them. Indeed, while the Hardy Flower department has been considerably ex- tended, the Half-Hardy and Tender departments have not been reduced. The revisal of lists has been carefully attended to ; and what is considered an improvement has been made in the arrangement of the matter, so that it is hoped the work may still deserve the public favour that has been accorded to its former editions. DAVID THOMSON. Deumlanrio Gabdens, March 1887. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION, . Kemarks suggestive of improvement, PAGE 1 CHAPTER I. REVIEW OF THE PHIKOIPAl GENERA MOST SUITABLE FOR SUMMER GROUPING, ETC., 10 CHAPTER II. PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT OF HALF-HARDY AND HAEDT PLANTS MOST SUITABLE FOR SUMMER AND AUTUMN BEDDING, White, pink, scarlet, and other varieties of plain-leaved and Zonale Pelargoniums — au- tumn propagation and win- ter management, Late autumn propagation, Spring treatment, . Spring propagation. Soil most suitable for them, . Select list of them, List of ivy -leaved varieties. Sweet-scented-leaved varieties, Variegated Pelargoniums — au- tumn propagation and win- ter treatment, . Spring treatment of autumn- struck cuttings, . 15 Spring propagation. 26 Soil suitable for them, . 27 Select list of them, 27 Winter Pelargoniums in a, 15 spare room. 28 18 Lifting and wintering old 18 plants. 30 20 Tuberous Begonias, 33 21 Verbenas — autumn propaga- 22 tion and winter treatment. 34 23 Their spring propagation, 36 23 Soil suitable for them, . 39 Select list of them, 40 Slu-ubby Calceolarias — au- 23 tumn propagation. 41 Spring management, 42 25 Soil suitable for them, . 43 Vlll CONTENTS. Select list of them, . . 43 Centaurea ragusina, . 43 Verbena veuosa, , . 45 Lobelia erinus speoiosa, &o., . 46 Polemonium CEeruleum varie- gatum, . . 47 Gladioli, . . 48 Select list of them, 49 Dahlias, . . .50 Select list of them, . 52 Achyrooline Saundersonii, . 53 Antirrhinums (Snapdragon), . 53 Amaranthus caudatus (Love- lies-bleeding), . . 54 Asters, . ... 54 Agathea coelestis, &c., 55 Alternantheras, . . .55 Arundo douax variegata, 56 Agapanthus umbeUatus, . 56 Arabis lucida variegata, . . 56 Arabis alpina and mollis, . 56 Ageratums, . . 56 Dell's Beet, ... 57 BeUis perennis aucubsefolia, 57 Cineraria acanthafolia, . . 57 Cineraria maritima, , . 57 Carnation Duke of Wellington, 58 Cerastium, . . 58 Clematis, . . .58 Campanula carpatica, . 69 Cheiranthus Cheirii (Wall- flower), .... 59 Coleus, 60 Chrysanthemum frutescens,&c., 60 Chrysanthemum sensation, . 61 Dactyhs glomerata variegata, . 61 Fuchsias, .... 61 Gnaphalium lanatum, . . 61 Gazania splendens, Humea elegans. Hollyhocks, .... Heliotropes, .... Iresine Lindenii, Koniga variegata, . Lobelias, perennial herbaceous, Linum grandiflorum, Mesembryanthemum cordifo- lium, .... Nemophila insignis, Nierembergia gracilis, &c., Nepeta teucrifolia, Oxalis corniculata rubra, CEnothera taraxifolia, Petunias, Pentstemons, Phlox Drummondii, Perilla nankinensis, Pyrethrum Golden Feather, Saponaria, Salvia patens, Salvia fulgens, Sedum spectabile, Santolrna Chamsecyparissus, . Senecio argenteus, . Scrophularia nodosa variegata, Stachys lanata, Stellaria graminea aurea. Stocks, Intermediate, Tropeeolums, . Thymus citriodorus lutea, Tussilago farf ara variegata, Tagetes signata pumila, . Veronicas, Viola cornuta, Viola tricolor (Pansies), . Vinoa major variegata. 62 62 63 63 64 C4 64 64 64 65 65 65 66 67 68 68 68 69 69 69 70 70 70 70 70 70 71 71 72 72 72 73 74 CHAPTER III. WINTERING TENDER PLANTS IN COLD FRAMES — MANAGE.MENT BEFOEE PLANTmO OUT — PREPARATION OF BEDS ASD SOIL Management of plants before i Flower beds and borders, being planted out, . . 77 I 75 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER IV. ORHAMENTAL-POLIAQED PLANTS, . . ... 83 List of those suitable for plant- I Culture of these at Mayfield, . 89 ing as single specimens, &o., 83 Ferns suitable for single speci- Their cultivation and preserva- mens or groups, ... 90 tion, 84 I List of hardy Ferns, . . 91 CHAPTER V. PICTUEESQUl; BEES 92 CHAPTER VI. SUCCULENT AND CUEIOUS-LOOKIKG PLANTS — CABPET-BEDDINQ, . . 98 Mode of planting, . . . 100 i Carpet-bedding, . . . 103 Select greenhouse list, . . 102 | Cleveland House garden de- Select list for covering beds, . 103 I scribed, .... 104 CHAPTER VII. The Hardy Flowee-Gaedbn. haedy hebbaoeous perennial plants, . . . 107 Their culture and arrange- ment, . . . .108 Select list of them, . . Ill Remarks on arrangement of mixed borders, , . 117 General culture of herbaceous plants, .... 119 CHAPTER VIII. The Hardy Flowbr-Gabden {Continued). ALPINE PLANTS — HAEDY PERNS — AQUATICS, ETC 123 Selection of Alpine or rock- work plants, . . . 123 Rock-plants — their culture, . 127 The hardy fernery, . .129 List of hardy Ferns, . 130 Aquatics or water-plants, . 133 List of them, . . ,133 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. The ITahdy Flotceh-Gakden {Continued). EAELT-FI.OWERING OHEYSANTHEMUMS — DELPHINIUMS — DIANTHtTS EAE- BATnS — PjEOXIAS — PHLOXES — PYEETHRITMS — TEITOMA, . Clirysanthemums, . . . 135 Early-flowering varieties, 136 Late-flowering varieties, 137 Delphiniums, . 137 List of them, . . .138 Dianthua barbatua (Sweet- William), ... 139 . 135 Herbaceoua Pseonies, with list, 140 Shrubby Pseonias, . . .141 List of them, . 141 Phloxes, . . .142 List of early varieties, . 142 Pyrethrums, with Hst, 143 Tritoma uvaria glaucescens, 144 CHAPTER S. The Haeby Flowee-Gaeden {Continued). HAHDY ABHUALS— EIENNIALS- -OENAMEKTAL GEASSES AND EVERLASTING PLOWEES, . 145 Soil for them, . 146 1 Biennials, 152 Time of sowing. . 146 Sowing of these, . 152 Sowing, . 147 Soil and transplanting, . 152 Thinning, &c.. . 147 Select list of them. 153 Staking, 148 Ornamental grasses and ever- Select list of hardy annuals, . 149 lastings, 153 HaU-hardy annuals. . 150 : List of grasses for bouquets, 154 Select list of them. . 151 List of everlastings, 155 CHAPTER XL The Haedy Flowee-Gabden {Contimied). OAKNATIONS, PICOTEES, AND PINKS, Soil for them, . . . 156 ^ Select list of them, Propagation by pipings and Pinks, . layering, . . . .157 Propagation, . Carnations and Picotees, . 158 List of them, 156 159 159 160 160 CHAPTER XIL The Haedy Flowee-Gareen {Continued). ROSES, Propagation by cuttings. Propagation by budding. 162 i Propagation by layering, 164 I Soil suited to them, 161 166 167 CONTENTS. X] Pruning, 167 Provence or Cabbage, 173 List of Hybrid Perpetuals, . 169 Moss and perpetual moss, 174 Bourbons and Hybrid Bourbons, 170 Austrian or yellow. 174 Chinese and Hybrid and Crim- Boursault, 175 son Chinese, 171 Ayrshire, 175 Tea-scented, . 172 Evergreen or Sempervirens, 175 Noisettes, 173 Banksian, 176 CHAPTER Xin. The Hakdy Flower-Gaeden {Continued). srEraa flowers, . 177 Neglect of spring garden ing, 177 Hepaticas, . . . . 198 Reaction in favour of it. 178 Christmas Rose, . 199 Plants available for it. 179 Hyacinths, 199 Annuals, . 180 Candytuft, . 201 List of these. 182 Irises, ..... 201 Hardy perennials and bulb- Grape Hyacinth, . 202 ous-rooted plants. . 183 Forget-me-not, 202 Ajuga, . 183 Narcissus, 202 Alyssum, 183 Omphalodes, . 203 Adonis, 184 Phloxes, 203 Anemones, . 184 Primroses, . . . . 204 Arabis, . . 186 Ranunculuses, 205 Aubrietias, . . 187 Santolina, .... 206 Daisies, . . 187 Saxifrages, . . . . 206 Bulbocodium, 188 Scillas, 206 Gardamine, . . 188 Serapervivum, 207 Gerastium, . 189 Intermediate Stocks, 207 Gentaurea, . 189 Tulips (smgle). 203 Wallflowers, . . 190 Tulips (double), 209 Corydalis, . 192 Triteleia, . . , . 210 Crocuses, . 192 Vinca 210 Cyclamen, . 193 Violas, .... 210 Dactylis, . 194 Pansy section, 211 Dielytra, 194 Sweet-scented Violets, . 212 American Cowslip, . 195 Hardy spring-flowering shrubs. 213 Winter Aconite, . . 195 Rhododendrons (early), . 214 Dog's-tooth Violet, . 196 Rhododendrons (medium). 214 Euonymus, . . 196 Rhododendrons (late), . 214 Grown Imperial, . . 197 Soil suitable for them, . 216 Snowdrops, . . 197 Lifting and transplanting. 217 Gentians, . 198 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER SIV. DECIDUOUS HAEDT SPKING-FLOWEEING SHEUBS SUITABLE FOB BEDS AND SHEUBBEET BOEDEES, ETC., Culture of these, List of them, Spring - flowering evergreens and sub-evergreens, . Berry-bearing evergreens, 218 219 220 221 Hardy evergreens with varie- gated foliage. Climbers suitable for walls, . Shrubs for covering walls. Summer Climbers for walls, Plants for vases and baskets, . 218 221 222 223 223 224 CHAPTER XV. AHRANGEMEITT OF COLOURS, Arrangement according to the law of contrast, . . 227 And according to that of har- mony, ... 230 226 General remarks on plant- ing of beds and groups of beds, . ... 231 CHAPTER SVI. A±tKAiMiJlMJli> ± AiMJ rijAJ>i±J>iLr U Design No. 1, 238 5 A.Nii uituura ur Btjua, Shaded beds, . 260 Design No. 2, 246 Pincushion beds, . 260 Design No. 3, 247 Pyramidal beds. 261 Villa Garden Group, No. 4, 249 Circular bed, . 262 Design No. 5, 251 Mixed borders. 263 Design No. 6, 252 Borders of fine-foliaged plants. 264 Planting long borders, Design The Designs planted as spring No. 7, . . . . 253 flower-gardens, . 267 Ribbon-border planting. 257 The White Sand Garden at Examples of planting beds. 258 Drumlanrig, 274 CHAPTER SVII. PLANTING OUT AND WATEEING, .... Planting out, . . . 276 | Watering, . 276 281 INDEX, 285 ILLUSTRATIONS. SEVEN PLATES OP DESIGNS ILLUSTEATING THE PLANTING OP BEDS AND GEOUPS OF BEDS, ...... At end of Volume. PLATE VIII. ... . . To face page 93 11 IX. . . ... 1, 99 n X. . . . ,1 274 " XI. . . . . . . At end of volume. INTEODUCTION. The practice of horticulture has been regarded as the most healthy employment and most delightful recreation in -which human beings can be engaged. This remark holds good of all its branches, unless it be the forcing of flovers and fruits under glass, which is adverse to physical wellbeing. It is true that in the departments of culinary vegetables and fruits the element of utility is of first importance ; but even they are not without their pleasures of a satisfactory nature. The retired Eoman emperor Diocletian was so pleased with watching the growth of the cabbages which he had planted with his own hand, that he refused to leave them in order to resume the reins of power. Doubtless the originators of new fruits, such as the late Mr T. A. Knight and Van Mons, not to speak of more modern instances, enjoyed the most exquisite delight in cultivating and watching the progress of their seedlings, in realising their gains, and in imparting them to the world at large. It is pleasing to enjoy the consciousness of skill applied, of diligence and power exercised, and of cherished expectation gratified at length. Flower-gardening — the subject of this little work — has less of material utility than the departments just referred to. It does not contribute to the substantial of the table, but it does to its elegancies, and has numerous other and more refining attrac- tions, which have always made it a favourite pursuit. If the late distinguished Prince Consort was right in calling horticul- ture one of the fine arts, it is this department of it which especially vindicates the name. It gives scope to the arts of design, and works with the most beautiful materials ; it affords pleasure both to the artist and the observer ; it exhibits to the greatest advantage beautiful flowers, which are amongst the most admirable objects of nature, and presents them arranged, 2 THE FLOWER-GARDEN. harmonised, and contrasted in the most favourable circum- stances ; it adds a grace to the magnificent country residence, the moderate villa, and the more humble cottage home ; and it imparts an interest to the oft-revisited flower-patch in the vicinity of large towns, where perhaps the pale mechanic or little shopkeeper, tending a few flowers, realises the truth of Keats's celebrated line — " A thing of beauty is a joy for ever." Much sentiment might be expended on the pleasures derivable from flower-gardening, and much might be written on the elevating tendency of the study, culture, and arrangement of flowers, and of the joys that the sight of them is capable of raising in the hearts of the sorrowful and afflicted, and more than enough said to justify the exclamation, " Give me a fine day and a flower-garden, and I ^vill make ridiculous the pomps and pageants of emperors and kings." They mistake the use of flowers who regard them as a mere luxury. Theirs is something akin to the office and power of the simple melody, which often fills the eye with tears and softens the heart. The love of flowers is coexistent with the infant's dawn of consciousness, and lasting as life ; and surely there was beneficent intention in the formation of the teeming multitude of flowers which meet the eye at almost every step. Science informs us, that though there were gigantic Club-mosses and Ferns in the earliest period of the earth, there were no bright nor fragrant flowers till the era of humanity. They formed part of the preparation in that Eden home, where a delicately sensitive human organism and an emotional mind were to vibrate like a well-strung harp of a thousand strings to every influence from without. Reflecting the colours which stream in light from the centre of worlds, the influence of flowers cannot be regarded as anything less than one of the gifts bestowed by Providence to make the sweets of life outweigh its evils. Philanthropists are now more than ever recognising the moral influence of flowers as an auxiliary in raising the masses of our pent-up cities — only as an auxiliary, however ; for potent though that influence be, it falls short of stirring the profoundest depths and touching the highest chords of our nature. Having taken a glimpse within the threshold of the temple, and half bent the knee at the shrine where only poets and philosophers can acquit themselves, we retire to the less dreamy and chosen sphere of the practical. INTRODUCTION. 3 The elder brethren of our profession, who can look back, for instance, to the introduction of the Dahlia, give us but a poor idea of flower-gardening as it was practised in the first decades of the century. Flower-gardens had then seldom a separate locality devoted to them ; and when they had that advantage, they were generally composed of unshapely figures cut out in turf, and arranged, as the designers fondly but erroneously imagined, after the principles of English gardening as inculcated by Wheatley and Uvedale Price. These figures were mostly filled with a miscellaneous assortment of shrubs and herbaceous plants, many of which possessed only botanical interest. The Californiau annuals were then undiscovered in the Far West, and all the fine recent introductions were unknown and un- thought of. Florist flowers, indeed, as they are distinctively called, were in some cases — if less formal and bright — not much less beautiful than they are now, and hence they received dis- proportionate attention. The consequence naturally was, that attention was almost exclusively directed to individual plants, instead of to general effect ; and the progress of flower-garden- ing was very slow, till the improvement of existing species and the multiplication of beaJutif ul varieties have rendered separate flower-gardens, suitable for the efiects such flowers are capable of producing, if not absolutely necessary, at least highly desirable. Hence those highly artistic parterres that generally spring up close to every country-seat This, again, led to the well-recognised distinctions of the promiscuous (or mixed) and the grouping styles, and to the great change which has accordingly crept over the face of flower-gardens within the last forty years. In all that is of human contrivance, change is not invariably improvement. Whether this be applicable to the change that has taken place in decorative gardening, is regarded by some as questionable.. In this, however, as in most other things, individuals have yielded to the current of general sentiment and usage, and fashion is as tyrannical in the court of flowers as in any other. Whatever can be said either for or against the style of grouping plants of one sort and colour together in quantities, so as to make each bed a distinct picture, and blend all into a harmonious whole, it must be admitted that it makes the work of the gardener much more an art than it was half a century ago. The ofiice of art is to educate the perception of beauty; and if detaching objects from unmeaning and embar- rassing variety be one of the virtues of art, it will be allowed 4 THE FLOWER-GARDEN. that the present style of flower-gardening has a higher claim to that virtue than any that has preceded it. Mixed borders of hardy flowers of various heights and colours are calculated to yield a never-failing fund of interest and delight as well as instruction. The simple perception of natural forms is a dehght, and all the works of God have a general grace diffused over them. And whUe it is assumed that if a gorgeous and imposing -picture is to be attained, it must be by massing and blending distinct colours together, I have not, at the same time, any sympathy with those who cannot recommend the one system without condemning the other. He conceives meanly of our resources who thinks the best of flower-gardening is past or accomplished in either the one system or the other. The massing style can justly claim more impressiveness — an effect upon the mind of the general observer so vividly illustrated by the effect produced upon the poet's mind by the " dancing daffodils," the remembrance of which, because seen in quantity, filled his heart with pleasure while he lay upon his couch. A single or a few daffodils would never have led him to immortalise them in verse, as did the " dancing sea of daffodils" by the shore, which, as the poet puts it, " outdid the sparkling waves in glee." It is not, however, a primary object here to balance the merits of the mixed style of flower-gardening against the popular and more imposing style of massing. To do so would not only be a fruitless task, but a gross injustice to both systems — to set them up as rivals for popular favour. They are distinct in principle, and alike applicable to certain and distinct positions. There is, consequently, as little room or reason why both systems should not add their distinct charms to our gardens, as there is for playing the one off against the other. The one should not, and cannot, entirely displace the other. Each should have its own niche ; and when a fitting niche can- not be commanded for both, circumstances must decide which shall have the preference. The requirements of my employers, and the adaptability of the gardens I have had to work upon in -^-arious parts of the country, wide apart and under very dissimilar soUs and climates, have devolved upon me a very considerable amount of thought and practice in both the systems referred to. I do not here attempt to shield the more gorgeous massing system from any faults with which it can be fairly and legitimately charged. At the same time, it is submitted that t]>ose who INTKODUOTION. 5 have most severely and sweepingly condemned it, have done so without sufficient thought. It cannot be denied that there is enough in a border of hardy herbaceous plants, with a few annuals and half-hardy plants mixed in, especially when the selection is judicious, to gratify the keenest sensibility to that which is both gay and interesting. But that is a very different thing from holding that, under all circumstances, and partic- ularly in those geometrical and architectural groups of beds which compose so many of the flower-gardens in proximity to mansions of a certain style of architecture, the promiscuous system is the best, or that, indeed, it would not be entirely out of place. Such is not the niche for mixtures of hardy herba- ceous plants. They must give place to a system of grouping in accordance with the surroundings. One of the arguments which have often been urged against composing our parterres of half-hardy plants, is the compara- tively short-lived display which such plants produce ; and it is maintained that it would be much less objectionable could the season of full bloom be greatly protracted. It is to my mind questionable whether this be either a well-founded or philo- sophical ground of objection. Such an objection need not necessarily exist. Vacant beds can be filled up at once with abundant material for an early spring display, or even with a variety of beautifully ornamented shrubs, where families are resident in winter; and this cannot be so fully applied to the case of hardy border-plants. And where a family is only resident at any given place during the months of say July, August, and September, the half-hardy plants yield by far the finest display then. Both systems, as circumstances demand, are now practised, and in these ways the bareness is more efTectively remedied than is possible when the summer and autumn shows are principally dependent on permanent herba- ceous plants. The argument is consequently not well founded, neither is it philosophical. Would the charm of our summer and autumn galaxy of bloom not cease to produce those pleasant emotions with which it is contemplated, were it possible to sustain its sameness all the year ? To the attentive eye, each change in the seasons brings its own peculiar beauty and charm. If, instead of change, we had one continuity of song, leafy woodland, and flowery garden, would it not become monotonous, and cease to be a source of exquisite pleasure to the mind? Lovers of flowers ought to be thankful that the year and the human heart have room for changes. b THE FLOWEE-GAEDEN. Vulgarity is one of the epithets which have been applied to the massing style, and I will not undertake to say that this is not in some cases correct. But that does not prove anything beyond the fact, that the art of disposing of flowers in beds and borders is not correctly understood by aU. Such, however, cannot be accepted as proof that the most chaste and refined effects cannot be, and are not, produced by tastefully disposing of masses and lines of plants with various shades of colour. Properly worked out and understood, the pleasure of the par- terre becomes one of intellect ; and long may it form a part of our gardens ! Its object is in some cases, I fear, confounded with purely botanical science ; but it is folly to contrast or compare the one with the other. If the first attempts at grouping beautiful flowers, with the view to contrast and harmonise their colours, were hailed as at least a most desirable feat are in flower-gardens at a time when suitable plants were much less plentiful than they are now, and when the art of disposing of them effectively was in its infancy, it would surely be one great and desirable feature lost were the whole thing, in its now improved condition, swept away, as some have predicted that it will be. Any system can be carried to excess ; and the evil has not been that tender plants have been bedded or grouped on the principle of a single or two or three sorts in a group, but that this system has been allowed to drive from many gardens those beautiful hardy herbaceous and bulbous plants which should always form one of the chief charms of every well-appointed garden. The object of the following pages is to give plain practical instructions how to propagate and cultivate such plants as are suitable for the grouping system, as well as for mixed arrange- ments of hardy and haK-hardy plants, and practical illustrations of grouping them in various ways beside the humble cot and lordly hall. And I am happy to think that many of our hardy plants, as well as bulbs and annuals, that can be managed with the feeblest resources, are among the most effective for planting in masses and lines. These have, therefore, the additional recommendation of being available, not only by the wealthy, but by the many with the simple plot before the door. These latter, as well as the well-to-do amateur with perhaps a tiny greenhouse and fi-ame, are included among the objects of the following pages; for I conceive that it is erroneous to estimate the merits of, or the pleasure derivable from, a flower-garden more by its extent than by its arrangement and keep. One bed INTRODUCTION. < or border well planted and well kept ■will be more a fountain of pleasure than an incongruous jumble, however extensive. Mere extent in ilower-gardening, without a proper order of things, becomes only the more ridiculous and repulsive in proportion to its extent. My purpose, therefore, in this treatise, is to embrace the many ; and I trust what I have to say may, however feebly, help forward and stimulate in the proper pursuit of an object that may be reckoned among those which afford the most whole- some relaxation and the purest of earthly enjoyments. Bemarhs suggestive of Improvement. — Flower-gardening has made very considerable progress within the last twenty years. The improvement is prominent in two distinct features: the plants at the command of the gardener, generally speaking, are much improved both in extent of variety and in brilliancy and variety of colour, and the art of arrangement has made equal progress. Indeed it has been hinted that some of the sections of plants are scarcely susceptible of much further improvement; and as to arrangement, it might almost be said that the plants at our service have already been used in every conceivable arrangement and relationship to each other, and that there cannot be much to achieve within the limits of good taste in this direction. If this be near the truth, and the rate of progress is to be maintained, and the interest in flower-gardens freshened, we must necessarily look to a new order of plants, and to the reintroduction of many that have been much neglected, and in fact never cultivated as they ought, with a view to continuity of blooming more than to fresh designs executed with those we already possess. And it is gratifying to find that many long neglected hardy plants, that were long ago grown and planted in twos and threes, are now much more extensively planted. It is not by any means vain to hope that there are yet much grace and elegance — we have no lack of colour — to be added to our parterres. Already something that is at least suggestive has been attempted in a very few favoured localities. Some plants which thrive best when strictly confined to our stoves and warm greenhouses have been grouped out of doors. To such efforts we owe much, and the observant carmot fail to profit fi'om whatever measure of success has attended them. There are, however, few places in the United Kingdom where it would be anything short of hopeless to attempt outdoor decoration with such plants as are most at home in a tropical climate. Notwithstanding the insurmountable obstacle which climate throws in the way of introducing subtropical decorations into 8 THE FLOWER-aAEDEN. our flower-gardens, I consider it very desirable to work into a still greater variety a hardier class of plants, resembling, m grace and elegance, those tender plants which can only be seen in real health and beauty in plant-stoves. Hardy plants, such as I have referred to — or rather the multiplication and use of them — are one of the greatest desiderata of the modern flower- garden. A most desirable and attractive feature is being added to the arrangement of beds and borders by the introduction of the order of plants that I have indicated, and very similar efiects to those that can be produced by subtropical plants are attainable by a liberal use of many half-hardy and hardy plants already enumerated in the nurseryman's list. Greenhouse Dracaenas, Yuccas, Aloes, Cordylines, Agaves, Grevilleas, Gycads, Araucarias, &c. &c., may be mentioned as a few among many indicative of the order of plants for which I am pleading, and which are every day becoming more popular for this purpose. As centres, starting-points, panels, vase- plants, &c., surely it is desirable to recruit from such ranks. A dozen, a score, forty, fifty, or a hundred such plants, according to the capabilities and extent of the place, would add greatly to the beauty of many a garden. The annual housing and plunging of these would not require much more space nor labour than those plants which they are designed to displace. And there cannot be a question, as to the wisdom of ha-s-ing curtailed, in a measure, the once too prevailing weight of colour, to make way for plants with graceful foliage. The selection of such plants need not be confined to those that require protection of any sort in winter. Jlany of our perfectly hardy shrubs and trees can be used in a young state A\"ith very striking effect ; and I hope the training of such in special ways for this purpose will one day be well worth the attention of nurserymen. With the introduction of more graceful and ornamental foliaged plants, a striking improvement may be expected on the present brilliant order of flower-gardening. Another important consideration, in prospectively con- templating improvement, lies in the undue amount of extent on which, in many instances, flower-gardening is attempted to be carried out. Proprietors, and gardeners too, are alike in fault in this matter, — the one from the idea of enlarging the sources of their enjoyment, the other with the view of getting more scope for displaying their taste and skill. Instead of realising this, it may perhaps be considered bold to say that few things would tend so much to the improvement of flower-gardening, in a INTEODUCTION. 9 general way, as that the area over which it is attempted should be reduced by one-thiixl, and to some extent this step in the right direction is in progress. Surely it is more desirable to have a dozen beds about a place well filled and arranged with choice plants, than four times that number made up indiffer- ently. And then there is the most important matter of dress and high-keeping the whole season, than which there is not anything else that so much affects the enjoyment and comfort of all concerned. The greatest possible amount' of flower- gardening cannot be pleasing, or contribute to the enjoyment of ladies and gentlemen with any pretence to refined taste, unless a high state of cultivation and neatness prevails. Half the number of plants, with the same amount of labour properly applied, would be more certain to minister enjoyment, and tend to advance the art. One bed of flowers may be made to attract more attention and cause more admiration than a great number ; and the smaller groups of beds may be made far more attractive than the larger, if attempted with the same means. Flower- gardens are not to be disapproved of merely because they are large. Wbat is contended for is, that a small garden well arranged and highly kept, must, in the nature of things, be far more productive of enjoyment, and tend more to the advance- ment of the art, than a larger one out of proportion to the means of its owner, and consequently badly kept. 10 OHAPTEE I. KETIEW OF THE PEINCIPAL GENEKA MOST SUITABLE FOE SUMMER GEOUPING, ETC. The number of beautiful plants which have been furnished to the flower-gardener of the present day, and the well-matured experience in making judicious selections for various soils and climates, give us considerable advantage over those who were the pioneers of the grouping system. And if it be true, as doubtless it is, that so extensive a use of comparatively tender plants has led to the neglect of many an interesting hardy border -plant, all has not been loss. That wonderful law of compensation which pervades the universe has not been absent here. In proof of this, we have only to review the many beautiful half-hardy plants which have been added to our lists, and have disputed so successfully the position of popular favourites. And as the current of popular taste is at present flowing in the direction of mixed flower-beds and borders of hardy plants, there must be a compromise. Selection from both the hardy and half-hardy orders of plants is creeping on just as fast as it is being discovered that some desirable feature or efi'ect is gained ; and thus, by a sort of mutual concession, the flower-garden is being furnished with judicious selections, and not with an omnium gatherum of all sorts. In taking a retrospective glance at some of the plants which are now so extensively used, it cannot fail to be abundantly apparent to those who are conversant with the plants which formed, as it were, the da-mi of the grouping system, that the improvement in some cases has been wonderful, and in nearly all very considerable indeed. About forty years ago, the very headquarters of flower-gardening were all but entirely destitute of anything in the way of Pelargoniums that would now be PLANTS SUITABLE FOE SUMMEIl GEOUPING. 11 tolerated, unless as a curiosity. The old Horse-shoe among Zonales, and old Frogmore among plain-leaved scarlets, were the gems of those days. In variegated Pelargoniums the poverty was even greater still ; and as for the tricolor-leaved sort, they were never dreamed of nor hoped for. General Tom Thumb, the history of which is more like i-omanoe than reality (in being saved from a dust-bin, where, after the tender mercies of a nursery of children, it was cast to die the death of an un- proved seedling), led the way in improvement ; and, in company with new Frogmore, the plucky little General has marched through many a gaudy garden, and probably these two have held their ground for a greater length of time than any others. Globe Compactum and Shrubland Superb led the way among sorts with zoned or horse-shoe leaves ; and, when properly managed, both varieties were very effective, although dark- zoned leaves are not now so highly prized in a bed of scarlet- flowered Geraniums. About 1850, Flower of the Day com- menced the era, and a new race of silver-edged varieties. And what have we now 1 It would indeed be difficult to say how numerous these varieties are, and more difficult to describe their beauty and adaptability for one purpose or another. From pure white up through tlie various shades of pink, peach, rose, cherry, salmon, scarlet, to crimson of various shades, with foliage of all shades of green, to say nothing of the shimmering beauty of the creamy, silver-edged, golden-edged, and bronze varieties, we have them, thanks to the skill and energy of hybridisers and sport-savers ; and all culminate in the gorgeous tricolor-leaved varieties, which almost combine in one leaf the colours of the rainbow, and vie in beauty of marking with the tenants of our stoves. Looking at Verbenas, I cannot help recording my conviction, that though now, owing to the great variety of Pelargoniums and other more striking and popular plants, rendered less of a necessity, the principle of arranging plants in masses owed them very much, perhaps more than any other genus of plants. The introduction of the Verbena had a very considerable share in the advent of the grouping style, and helped to establish it. Verbenas made dense and dwarf masses of long-continued and brilliant colours possible, and were found of easy culture. For bedding purposes, perhaps, the improvement has not been quite so striking as in Pelargoniums. The desirability of growing only such varieties as will stand rains the best, combining distinctness of colour with a compact stiff habit of growth. 12 EEVIEW OF THE PEINCIPAL PLANTS good foliage, great substance of petal, and a prolonged pro- fusion of bloom, has very mucli contracted the choice of Ver- benas ; as well as the fact that of late years they have, from some cause or other, not succeeded so well as they did in former times. As a distinct species, now more generally pressed into service, what can excel Verbena venosa ? It stands unrivalled by any other for producing a mass of purplish violet that withstands aU weathers ; but in cold, late localities it does not succeed. The work of improvement in that style of Calceolarias which is suitable for planting outdoors, and that keeps up a long succession of bloom, has not been so striking as in the Pelargonium. Nevertheless, since the days when C. rugosa and 0. angustifolia were the best, much has been gained. Of Dahlias a new race of dwarfs has been furnished for com- parativelj' dwarf groups and lines. True, some of these are not such in their individual blooms as would be looked upon by a florist with much complacency; but they yield a compact and long-continued profusion of blooms of pure whites, purples, scarlets, crimsons, yellows, and various other shades. For back lines and large beds they are very useful, and withstand rains about as well as any flowering plants. I think perhaps the most telling group I ever saw was chiefly composed of Dahlias. And of late years the old single Dahlia has been pressed into the service, and is most efiective for general purposes. We have now a few varieties of Stocks which are most effective. It may be said that, in some localities at least, the grouping system has done much for Stocks, and they have done much for grouping. It has led to so careful a selection of seed, that we have now scarlets, purples, and whites which, in colour, habit, profusion, and long -continued blooming, are perfectly unique. Of these, five-sixths invariably come double. Indeed it is difiicult to get singles enough among the purple and white to perpetuate them. They are, moreover, so hardy, that aU the care they require is to be sown under a common haiid-glass in spring, and they are generally in flower from the end of July till December. Many can remember when our dwarf pale-blue Lobelia, such as gracilis, was a cherished pot-plant for front .shelves in green houses. Now, we have many intense blues that are largely used and admired by all. A better blue colour is hardly pos- sible in Lobelias. Wliat flower-gardeners have often wished for is a plant of the same colour, about a foot high, and of upright stubby growth, to take a premier position in various SUITABLE FOE SUMMER GROUPING. 13 combinations. Salvia patens is too straggling and uncertain except for mixed borders ; and, especially on light soils, hot ■weather tries it much. Plumbago Larpentes some twenty-five years ago was sent out to fill up the want, but it signally failed. Quite recently an early-flowering race of Chrysanthemums have appeared, that are most useful for both mixed borders and massing. These are represented by such as Madame Desgrange, St Mary, Precocity, and many others. Who can look at the glowing beauty of Gladioli without being struck with the wonderful improvement which hybridisers have effected in them ? We have only to look at Gandavensis and Psittacinus, and compare them with such a magnificent progeny as can now be cheaply bought, to see how much superior our material in Gladioli is, as compared to that of the past. And what shall we say of Roses ? Their name is legion, and their beauty perfectly wonderful. The great dilficulty of the gardener nowadays is to select the best. Some of the sections are admirably adapted for beds ; such, for instance, as the Chinas, Bourbons, and Perpetuals, which, at several seasons of the year, yield a magnificent profusion of bloom. To point out the wonderful improvement which has been wrought in the Rose, would indeed be needless. But for purely parterre-work we would not recommend their use very extensively, as there are certain seasons when there is a pause in their blooming — except, indeed, it be Chinas — that would mar the unity of designs ; and for that reason I would recommend them to be grown in beds or borders by themselves ; and what can be more delightful in its way than a rosary? They also are charming in mixed borders of hardy plants. Among plants with grey or almost white foliage there is Centaurea ragusina and its varieties, which, but for the grouping style of flower-garden decoration, would more than likely have been all but lost to the country, but which is now one of the most popular and efiectively used plants. It is most charming and graceful for many purposes, and for some it stands unrivalled. C. argentea and C. gymnocarpa are also very pretty and useful plants. Cineraria maritima. Cineraria acanthafolia, Senecio argen- teus, Santolina incana, Stachys lanata, Cerastium tomentosum, and Cerastium Biebersteinii, are, for their various positions, most efiective. These silvery -foliaged plants have added a softening touch to parterres which would now be much missed were it withdrawn. 14 PLANTS SUITABLE FOE SUMMER GEOUPING. In variegated plants we have most useful dwarf edging-plants, such as Arabis lucida variegata, A. alpina variegata, A. mollis variegata, variegated Balm, Dactylis glomerata variegata, D. glomerata variegata elegantissima, Veronica pumila, V.speciosa variegata, V. Candida, and, most beautiful of all, Polemonium cseruleum variegatum ; also, for positions where taller plants are required, there are Acer Negundo variegatum, and a few others, nearly all of which have the great recommendation of being quite hardy. Crimson and dark foliaged plants are now plentiful for grouping with the greys — Iresine Lindenii, Coleus in variety, Amaranthus, Orach, Oxalis corniculata rubra. Some of the dark-crimson foliaged Beets are in many cases used with excel- lent effect, though some object to them because they have an edible tuberous root. One or two more plants are much used ill the south of England, among which are Alternantheras. The Coleus and Alternantheras succeed well outdoors only in the southern part of the kingdom. Among plants with golden foliage that prove highly effective in most localities, there are Pyrethrum Golden Feather and the hardy Stellaria graminea aurea, &c. A very great improvement in lively lavender-coloured plants are the dwarf Ageratums, and others, which may be regarded as among the most useful grouping plants of recent intro- duction. Numerous varieties of Violas are most useful and largely grown, particularly in the northern parts of the kingdom, and being hardy, they are everybody's plants. Then what can be more effective than Tritomas for back lines ? Of these there are T. uvaria and T. grandis, which, if planted alternately, keep up a fine line of bloom for four or five months. The latter begins to bloom when uvaria ceases, and it is fre- quently fine at Christmas. Notwithstanding the fact that hardy Herbaceous plants have come more to the front these last few years, a nurseryman in the neighbourhood of London, who makes bedding plants a specialty at a cheap rate, tells me the demand for such is greater every year, thus proving that the cultivation of 'flowers of every kind by the public is extending. 15 CHAPTEE 11. PEOPAGATION" AND GBNEEAL TREATMENT OF HALF-HAEDY AND HAEDY PLANTS MOST SUITABLE FOE SUMMEE AND AUTUMN BEDDING. AliTHOUGH it is my intention to treat of the majority of the plants according to alphabetical arrangement, I am induced to depart so far from that general rule as to give especial pro- minence to a few of the leading subjects, by treating of them in a more distinct and extended manner first. Proceeding on this principle, I have no hesitation in selecting and beginning with the Pelargonium as the chief of flowering plants suitable for the parterre. White, Pink, Scarlet, and other Varieties, of Plain- leaved and Zonale Pelargoniums. — Autumn Propagation and Winter Management. — About the 12th of August is the best time to begin the propagation of these Pelargoniums. By that time the plants have made a vigorous and firm growth, and the beds and lines are generally so well filled up that a couple of cuttings from each plant will not afiect the appear- ance of the garden. In choosing the cuttings, take as many of them round the outside of the beds as can be had. They are usually short-jointed and firm, and make finer plants than when long-jointed and immature. Large cuttings are in all respects preferable to small ones. They are less likely to damp off, strike sooner, stand the winter better, and require less coaxing to grow them into good plants in spring ; and they bloom earlier than plants raised from the mere points of the shoots. Unless it be some of the very dwarf varieties, the cuttings should be about 9 inches long — some of the strongest growers even more than that. In selecting and making them. 16 ZONALE PELAKGONIUMS. every care should be taken not to bruise them ; for if the stems are bruised, they are more subject to damp off. In making them, cut the bottom end off; close to the first leaf, with a sharp, thin-bladed knife ; remove the leaves close to the stem up to the third joint. They are then ready for insertion, which should be attended to before the cutting becomes flaccid. They should be dibbled in with a dibble considerably thicker than the cuttings, so that the hole is sufficiently large to allow of them being inserted without abrasion. Boxes 2J feet long, 1| foot wide, and 4 inches deep are excel- lent for striking in. In each box there should be nine auger- holes for drainage, and over each hole a single crock. Then prepare a compost, consisting of one part loam, one part leaf- mould, with a fourth of the whole of sand. This should be passed through a half -inch sieve, to separate the roughest part, and thoroughly mix the whole. A thin layer of the siftings should be placed over the bottom of the box, and then fill up to the rim, and press firmly, especially round the sides of the box. Where sand is plentiful, it is a good plan to cover the surface of the soil not more than a quarter of an inch deep with it. This prevents mouldiness on the surface of the soil, and keeps it moderately moist with less watering. Sixty cuttings of the stronger, and seventy of the smaller growing in each box are quite sufficient. If inserted thicker, they become drawn, and do not stand the winter so well, nor make such fine plants. As soon as the cuttings are put in, the boxes should be removed at once to the most warm and airy place at command — such as the bottom of a south wall, or any position where they can have the full blaze of the sun : a cool shaded place is the worst possible for them. The boxes should be placed on bricks, rails of wood, or anything that will raise them off the ground, so that worms do not get access, and to keep the boxes from rotting. They should have as much water given to them through a fine rose as will wet the whole of the soU, and settle it well about the cuttings, and afterwards be kept in a medium state of moisture. If they can be placed in cold pits or frames, so that, in the event of heavy rains, they can be covered with glass, all the better ; but glass is not neces- sary for any other purpose in striking them. In about three weeks they will be well rooted, and commenc- ing to grow. All the blooms, and the very point of each cutting, should be picked off for the present, and no more water must be given than is sufficient to keep the soil in a moderately AUTUMN PROPAGATION, ETC. 17 moist condition. The great object for successful wintering is to get hardy stocky growth ; and if kept liberally supplied with water, or shaded, this is not attainable. When they begin to grow, any of the cuttings that overtop their fellows should have their points pinched out again ; and when the leaves become crowded some of them should be removed, to allow a circulation of air about the young plants. They may stand outdoors till danger from frost or drenching rains is apprehended, which time depends considerably on the climate of the locality. A good place to winter them is a dry pit, with sufficient amount of fire-heat to keep them safe from frost, and expel damp when necessary. They will winter per- fectly well in any cool, airy, light house, where they can be kept dry, and have a free circulation of air. If they are thick of foli- age at housing-time it should be thinned. It is much better to remove it while in a healthy state than first to allow it to become unhealthy and decaying, which is generally the case if they are housed without a little thinning. After being housed they should be carefully preserved from damp overhead ; and after the end of October they should not have more water than is sufficient to keep them from drooping ; and during damp weather in. winter, they sometimes do not require water for weeks at a time. All through winter, decaying leaves should be removed as they appear, and occasional fires be made to dry up damp. In this way I usually winter many thousands of these Zonale Pelargoniums with scarcely any loss of plants ; and in boxes such as I have described they occupy little space, and are easily moved when required. In large establishments where there is plenty of glass, it is a good plan to put the cuttings at once into pits where there are hot- water pipes, to preserve from frost. In this way neither boxes nor pots need be used, the body of the pit being prepared with five or six inches of light soil, and the cuttings dibbled in according to their sorts ; they may remain undisturbed till spring. In this way less trouble and labour ai-e needed than by any other : few places, however, can so accommodate them, and the next best way is that which I have described, and which is more generally applicable both to small and large quantities. Some gardeners strike them in the open ground in light sandy soil, and as soon as they are rooted, lift them and pot them, either singly in small pots, or a few together in larger ones. This is a very good method, but it has tlie disadvantage of B 18 ZONAIE PELAEGONIUMS. requiring more labour in the first instance, and more room and attention in watering through the winter, than the box method, which is equally as suitable for the amateur, who only requires to strike and winter a few scores on a shelf in his greenhouse; for the boxes can be of any dimensions to suit the position in which they are to be wintered. Late Autumn Propagation. — When circumstances occur that prevent the propagation of the required number of Pelar- goniums at so early a period as I have recommended as the best time, and when the propagation cannot be completed till later in autumn, different treatment is required to be successful. When later than the middle of September, it is best, in most localities, to put them under glass as soon as they are put in the cutting-boxes. A light, airy, dry house or pit, avoiding a cold, damp bottom, is the best for them at that date. When propa- gation is delayed till October, they do not root with certainty or success without artificial heat. At this season the cuttings should be selected even larger than I have recommended for early propagation ; and 8-inch pots are preferable to boxes for striking in, inasmuch as their depth gives more room for thorough drainage, which is indispensable. Moreover, the air and light play more freely about the cuttings in small round detachments than in larger squares in boxes. This is of im- portance, because damp is the greatest evil to contend mth in late striking. No more water should be given than is just sufficient to keep them from shrivelling; and a close, damp, cold atmosphere must be prevented by fire-heat and air-giving during dull weather, with a temperature of about 60° at night. Cuttings put in up till the end of October do very weU. It is necessary to winter these in a temperature a little warmer than is sufficient for early-struck stock, for striking by fire-heat at a duller season renders late ones more tender, and liable to suffer in a cold, damp atmosphere ; and, besides this, they require to be kept somewhat more moist at the root than plants with firmer tissues, and on that account more warmth is necessary to guard against damping off. Spring Treatment. — The middle of February is early enough to begin potting off Zonale Pelargoniums; and the spring treatment required to make fine plants by the middle of May, of such a stock of young plants as is produced by the practice I have described, is very simple, and different from that which is rendered necessary by selecting small cuttings at a later season, and afterwards treating them tenderly. Unless in the SPRING TREATMENT. 19 case of scarce sorts that I wish to increase by spring propaga- tion, they are never put into heat after being potted off. Not that a little fire-heat, for a fortnight or so after they are potted, would be anything else than favourable to their wellbeing, but that all available space in heat is reserved for the variegated and more tender sorts ; and those of which I am now treating grow into fine sturdy plants without it. About the second week of February preparation for potting should be made by having the necessary number of 3-inch pots clean and in readiness. For such strong healthy cuttings, drainage of any description is not necessary in the case of this size of pots. The soil should consist of two parts loam, one part of well-rotted dung — dry, and sifted through a half-inch sieve — or leaf -mould, and about an eighth part of the whole of sand. The young plants should be removed from the boxes with as little breakage to their roots as possible. To this end the soil should be rather dry, so that, after tlie box gets a sudden shake or two, the plants can be pulled out of it with their roots almost entire. In potting, the soil should be pressed firmly into the pots. In disposing of them after they are potted, they may be placed in peach-houses, vineries, or any available structure where they can be kept at about 50° of heat. Should the weather be dull and damp, watering should be delayed till a few days after they are potted off". When watered, they should get sufficient, through a rather fine rose, to moisten the whole soil. Light and air are essential to make fine sturdy plants of them; and when they get well established in their pots, and before they become shaded by the leaves of Vines or Peaches, they should be removed to cold pits, to remain there, if possible, till planting time. By the middle of May the plants under this hardy treatment are strong and stocky, bristling with bloom and bloom-buds, and receive no serious check when removed to the open air. This treatment cannot, of course, be pursued where such house-room does not exist : if, instead, there be light dry pits, from which frost can be excluded by hot-water pipes, they answer the same end. In the case of those who have only pits or frames to which artificial heat cannot be applied, and where, unfortunately, as is too often the case, the only accommodation for flower-garden plants consists of vineries and peach-houses, the best course to pursue is to pot ofi" in March, when the advantage can be had of a short time of heat in such houses ; 20 ZONALE PELARGONIUMS. after which the plants can be removed to cold pits and frames, where late spring frosts can be excluded by coverings, and where they can be properly hardened off. Such is the treatment by which fine plants are raised, when early autumn propagation is practised as I have described. But there are many so circumstanced that, though they find room to winter them in cutting pots or boxes, they cannot, at so important a season as spring, command convenience to enable them to pot each plant singly. Such cases demand special rules. What I would recommend as a good course under such circumstances is, that the cuttings be put in somewhat thinner than I have recommended for those to be potted off, and early in February to pinch the points out of each cutting, to cause it to make lateral growth, and to let them remain in their boxes till planting-out time. For treating them in this way I prefer 8-inch pots to boxes, as a greater proportion of the plants are at the outside of the small round detachments, and they are therefore not so liable to suffer from crowding. Moreover, the extra depth of soil given by the pots, as compared with boxes, affords the plants more nourishment, and at planting time they can be shaken out with better roots. jNIanaged thus, they do not flower so early ; and in damp cold soils they have a greater tendency to grow to leaf at the expense of flower than when potted off. But in dry soils I have planted them out from the cutting-pots, and, though later in blooming, they ultimately do exceedingly well. Spring Propagation. — Deficiency of stock, arising from what- ever cause, has frequently to be remedied by spring propagation. This can be carried out with success only where there is a command of artificial heat all through the spring. The method I have adopted is to place the stock of autumn-struck and of older plants in a temperature of 60° to 65° early in February. As soon as they make a fresh growth of a few inches, and have pretty well filled their pots with roots, they are topped for cuttings. A few leaves should always be left on the parent plants ; and all the cuttings should not be taken from old-lifted plants at once, because, if cut too close, they receive a sudden check. The best way is to go over them several times, taking the strongest cuttings. The best time to strike these is in March and early in April, after the plants have been excited into fresh growth. Cuttings always strike more freely after than before the growth, and it is also much better for the parent plants. Well-drained pots SPRING PEOPAGATION. 21 pans, or boxes, filled with equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and sand, sifted through a quarter-inch sieve, form an excellent medium for striking in. After the cuttings are put in, a water- ing of lukewarm water should be given, to settle the soil about the cuttings. They should be placed in a temperature of 65°, near the glass, and where they can have full sun, from which it is not desirable to shade them, unless it be a short time in the middle of the day — more to prevent drying the soil than anything else. Keep the soil moderately moist, and in three weeks they will be ready to pot off. In potting them, care is required in turning them out of the pots, so as not to injure the young roots. I very frequently pot off as soon as the roots are just formed; and when room can be commanded, put the cut- tings at once into the pots in which they are to remain, to obviate the check from breakage of roots at potting-off time. After being potted, return them to the same heat in which they have been rooted, till the roots reach the bottom and sides of the pots, when they can be removed to colder quarters to make room for others. Of course, if increase of stock be urgent, they can be kept in heat till they in their turn yield their tops for cuttings. By thus keeping old and young plants in heat for three months, it is astonishing how stock can be increased. The principal evils to be avoided in spring-striking, are a damp, stagnant atmosphere, and keeping the cuttings too damp on the one hand, and on the other allowing them at any time to become so dry as to cause them to droop and shrivel. Bottom- heat is not requisite, although, when the other necessary con- ditions can be applied along with it, there is no objection to it. Soil most suitable fw Beds of Zonale Pelargoniums- — A light sandy loam, moderately enriched with either well-rotted dung or leaf-mould, and resting upon a dry gravelly bottom, is the best for producing a moderately strong growth and profusion of bloom. The stronger varieties, especially of this section, grow too much to leaf when planted in rich, damp, heavy soils, more particularly in wet localities. In such localities, the beds, if possible, should be made up of soil more light and porous than is desirable for dry situations. The depth of soil should be less, and the beds more elevated, and thoroughly drained, with the view of promoting a growth more productive of bloom. In some parts of the country, such as the wetter parts of the west and south-west of Scotland and north of England, it is a good plan to plunge the plants in the beds, in pots varying from 4-inch to 6-inch sizes, which has a greater tendency than 22 ZONALE FELAKGONIUMS. anything to throw the plants into bloom. When this practice is adopted, as it is in many instances, it is desirable to save and use as large a jjroportion of the plants for several years in suc- cession as possible. Old plants flower more freely, and by being kept in their pots the blooming disposition is increased. It is generally found that, when kept thus a few years, and it is decided to keep them no longer, they acquire such a short- jointed habit that they may be turned out of their pots the last season with advantage. Some sorts are more suitable for certain soils and localities than others, and these peculiarities can only be thoroughly decided by experience in various local- ities. When practised in a damp locality, I have seen the flowering qualities of some of the strong-growing ones wonder- fully improved by making the beds shallow, and mixing burnt clay, sand, and cinders with the heavy soil, to make it dry and porous. It is a good plan to go over Pelargonium beds, which have a tendency to strong growth, about the beginning of August, and pinch just the terminal bud out of each shoot. This checks the wood or stem growth, and the trusses grow more strongly and are thrown up more prominently than when stopping is not practised. ISelect List of Zonale and Plain-leaved Pelargoniums most suit- able/or Beds and Lines.— The following list comprises varieties all of which have excellent bedding qualities. Their merits vary under the influence of soils and climates; but, generally speaking, they are all very good. Bayard, crimson scarlet, large truss and tine liabit. Bonfire, crimson scarlet ; fine. Brutus, dark scarlet. Captain Holden, dark rose. Caxton, rosy scarlet. Charles Smith, dark crimson. Constance, pink ; superb variety. David Thomson, crimson. General Outram, dark crimson. Glow, scarlet ; fine habit. Helen, salmon. Henry Jacoby, deep crimson ; extra fine. Jean Sisley, fine scarlet. John Gibbous, dark scarlet. King of Nosegays, orange scarlet ; fine. Lawrence Heywood, magenta. Lizzie Brooks, cerise scarlet. Lord Derby, scarlet ; extra fine. Madame Vaucher, white. Master Cliristiue, pink; better than Christine. Maurice Beriiardine, salmon ; fine. Metis, rosy scarlet ; extra fine. Milton, crimson scarlet ; free. Mrs Holden, splendid pink. Mrs Mellows, crimson. Mrs Turner, lilac pink. Pink Queen, very fi*ee. Prince Arthur, sciirlet ; fine. Princess Alice, white, pink eye. Rebecca, crimson lake. Rev. A. F. Atkinson, crimson scarlet. Rev. S. Hey, rosy red ; very good. Shakespeare, red. Sir H. Stanhope, scarlet. Sirian, very light pink. Sophie Birkin, salmon. Sybil Holden, pink ; fine. Tom Thumb, scarlet. Trentham Rose, rosy scarlet. Triomphe de Stella, crimson. Vesuvius, scarlet, dwarf, and in every respect superb. Violet Hill, lively rose ; extra fine. TAEIEGATED PELAEGONIUMS. 23 Waltliam Seedling, dark crimson. West Brigliton Gem, scarlet ; line. White Vesuvius, white. William Thomson, crimson ; very free. William Underwood, scarlet extra. Ivy-leaved Felarffonmms suitable for Edgings and Vases. Ariosta, pink. Bridal Wreath, large white flowers. Dolly Varden. Elegans foliis variegatis, silver-mar- gined leaves. Golden Ivy, very ornamental. L'Elegante, silver-edged. Le Vesuve. Old White. , foliis variegatis. Peltatum elegans, mauve - coloured flowers. Scarlet Ivy Leaf. Willsii rosea. Sweet-scented-leaved Pelargoniums. Apple-soented. Citron-scented, fair Helen. Lady Mary Fox. Lady Plymouth. Lady Scarborough. Lemon-scented. Lothario. Odoratissimum. Peppermint-scented. Pheasant's Foot, very elegant. Prince of Orange. Rose-scented. „ , , silver variegated leaves. A vast number more might be included, but these are "what I have proved to be the best for beds and lines, because they are the freest bloomers, as far as my experience goes. I have proved hundreds of varieties, many of which are very fine, judged by the iudividual trusses of flower, and most of them are very fine in pots ; but it requires a combination of habit and freedom of bloom to qualify a Pelargonium for the parterre. ■Variegated Pelargoniums. — Autumn Pro2^agation and Win- ter Treatment. — Under this head I include the golden, bronze, and tricolor leaved varieties. Variegated Pelargoniums are among the most chaste and pleasing parterre plants that we possess. Being of a compact and even habit, they are strikingly efiective either in beds, or when used for edgings and long lines. They have also the merit of standing wet seasons remarkably well. They are considered more tender and difficult to propa- gate and winter than the Zonale varieties ; and, generally speaking, they are so, and will not put up with the same hardships. With regard to the time of tating cuttings, their size, and preparation, the same rules are followed as in the case of Zonales — namely, they are taken early in August, selected of large size ; and great care is taken that, in collecting, making, and putting them in, they are not bruised. After trying various ways of striking and wintering them, 24 VARIEGATED PELAEGONIUMS. I give the preference to 8-incli pots over either large pans or boxes. The pots are thoroughly cleansed outside and inside. They are drained with 2 inches of rather finely-broken crocks, over which is placed a layer of rough dry mushroom dung about an inch deep, and about 2 inches of rich soil, consisting of one part loam, one part finely-sifted rotten dung, and about a fifth of the whole of sand ; and the pots are filled up firmly with loam, leaf-mould, and sand, in equal proportions. The whole is mixed thoroughly by being passed through a half-inch sieve before the pots are filled up. The number of cuttings put iato each pot varies from fifteen to eighteen, according to the habit of the sorts ; and great care is exercised in dibbling them in mth a large dibble, so as not to bruise them. As soon as the pots are filled with cuttings they are placed in cold frames or pits, on a dry bottom, and watered sufficiently to wet the whole soil. The lights are then put on, and raised entirely off the frame at back and front, so as to cause a free circulation of air about the cuttings. The only object in putting glass over them at all is to prevent them from getting rain when they are sufficiently moist without it, and to keep them from the influence of night dews. Except for this, they would be quite as well without the glass. The warmer and more exposed to the sun the better, provided there is circulation of air. Shade is never applied. In watering them, the object is to keep them moderately and uniformly moist. Excess causes them to damp off, and too little to shrivel. Careless watering — erring in either extreme — is their greatest enemy. In a month they are generally rooted; and though they will then bear a greater supply of water, it should only be slightly increased, as stiff hardy cuttings are more the object desired than larger and watery ones. From the day the cuttings are put in, cleanliness must be attended to — that is, every leaf that turns yellow should be removed, and not allowed to drop on to the surface of the soil to breed decay. The frames should not be shut up by night or day, for stagnant air and shade increase any tendency there may be to damping off. In cold, damp localities, I would advise that, instead of placing them in low cold frames to strike, they be put into some dry airy house or elevated pit, where they can have a dry warm bottom, and full exposure to light and air. I have always found that variegated Pelargoniums strike better, and can be wintered with less loss, in 8-inch pots, than when put into large pans or boxes. During the time thev are SPUING TKEATMENT. 25 rootless the soil is easier kept in a proper state of moisture than in smaller pots, and is less subject to excess of moisture than in large pans or boxes ; and when placed in their winter quarters in small round clusters, they get a free play of air about them, which diminishes the tendency to damping. Should the early part of October be wet or dull, and damp appear to affect them, they are removed to the front and back shelves of early vineries and peach-houses, where they get all the light and air to wliich these houses are then exposed. Till the middle of November sufficient water is given them to pre- vent their drooping, and after that date I have known them go for two months without a drop of water. Every decaying leaf should be removed as it appears ; and, managed in this way, the percentage of loss is trifling compared to what takes place when they are struck in close frames, and wintered on a damp cold bottom far from the glass. When tender varieties show any signs of distress in the short damp days of midwinter, they should, if possible, be removed to a warmer temperature than that of a cool vinery or green- house. Still, even these varieties, when large cuttings are struck early, give very little trouble, and winter perfectly well in a cool dry house, when small cuttings, struck later in the season, would succumb. Spring Treatment of Autumn-struck Cuttings. — As vineries and peach-houses are started, and any other accommodation in warm temperatures can be made available in the spring months, the cuttings are carefully shaken out of their store-pots, potted up singly, and placed in heat, generally ranging from 55° to 70°, ac- cording to circumstances; 60° is an excellent temperature for starting them. The smallest cuttings and slowest-growing va- rieties are potted first, and vice versa. In the matter of pots and son. the same treatment as is applicable to Zonale Pelargoniums answers for variegated varieties. If any difference be made, it should be to have the soil fully richer and the pots a size smaller for the variegated sorts, especially the slower-growing varieties. They should not be allowed to remain in vineries and peach- houses till the foliage of the vines closes over them, otherwise they soon suffer from the absence of light. When removed from such houses, it is most desirable that the quarters for hardening them off should be dry and light, with glass over them. In many cases this is most difficult to provide, from the limited amount of glass, and the many things demanding careful treat- ment in spring. 26 VARIEGATED PBLAEGONIUMS. In the case of amateurs and others who may not have room in heat into which to put them when potted singly, many of the strongest varieties do tolerably well by being kept in the cutting-pots till they are planted out. When such a course has to be pursued, they should not be so thickly inserted in the cutting-pots in autumn. Bijou, Flower of Spring, and others of a similar free habit, succeed in this way, provided the beds are free and rich. On the other hand, where the amoiint of glass is sufficient, consisting of such structures as those from which frost is being excluded, but without heat sufficient for potting off tender varieties early in spring, I would advise that the potting off be accomplished in autumn, so that the plants may be well established before the dead of winter, or else deferred till the end of March, when there is more natural warmth. They are, however, greatly improved by a few weeks in heat after they are potted off in spring. Spring Propagation. — Variegated Pelargoniums can be as easily increased in spring as the other sorts. The plants from which the cuttings are to be taken, whether young autumn- struck or older-lifted plants, should be excited into fresh growth in heat for a few weeks before the cuttings are taken from them. If put into heat early in February, they are generally in a nice condition for propagating about the second week of March, which is an excellent time for striking. Cuttings taken from plants while they are in a dormant state earlier in the season, I have not found to do so well ; besides, the old plants break more freely when they are cut back after their roots have become active. For striking I generally use 8-inch pots prepared exactly as directed for spring propagation in the case of Zonales, except that the pots are drained a little more, and the top layer of soil into which the cuttings are put is made a little more sandy ; though an excellent plan is to put the cuttings singly into 2i or 3 inch pots at once, putting a little sand in the centre of the pot for the cuttings to root in. In the spring of 1869 I struck 10,000 cuttings of silver and golden varieties in this way, with scarcely two per cent of failures. In taking off the cuttings, all crushing or bruising of either stems or leaves should be carefully avoided. Bottom-heat is not necessary, although desirable. They root very freely in any house or pit where the temperature ranges from 65° to 70°, where there is not much steaming or moisture, and where they cixn be placed within a few feet of the glass, and slightly shaded during a few SELECT LIST. 27 Iiours in the brightest part of sunny days. The two extremes in watering must now be even more strenuously avoided than in autumn-striking ; for variegated Pelargoniums, though im- patient of much moisture before they are rooted, are equally impatient of the other extreme. Water should be applied from the spout of a small pot without wetting the leaves. The whole of the golden and silver varieties root very freely, managed in this way ; and by being potted off before the roots get more than an inch long and liable to breakage, they make fine plants very quickly if kept in heat for a month or six weeks. Spring- struck plants generally grow very freely when planted out, and frequently produce finer foliage — for which the variegated varieties are especially prized — than autumn-struck plants. It is, however, always desirable in these high-pressure times to accomplish as much of the propagation of Pelargoniums in autumn as possible. Spring propagation of the variegated sorts, in particular, need only be attempted where there is the command of artificial heat. Soil most suitable for Variegated Pelargoniums. — This section, being grown principally for the beauty of their foliage, can scarcely be grown too vigorously. They make the finest leaves in a rich sandy loam. They are, however, exceedingly im- patient of stagnant water, and will not thrive in ill-drained beds. Indeed, some of the more tender sorts do not thrive well in districts which are wet, and where the soil is cold. What they thrive best in is a rich, light, well-drained soil, with a moderate amount of wet. Where the soil is sandy, dry, and poor, they never thrive well, nor increase much in size. In such situations they require rich manure and plenty of water. This is the reason why they thrive so luxuriantly in a moist warm stove, when they get plenty of water and light. Select List of Variegated, Gold, Bronze, and Tricolor Zonale Pelargoniums most suitable for Beds and Lines. — Nearly all these marked thus * are well-proved varieties, and suitable for small collections; those marked G. are golden-leaved, T. tricolors, and B. bronze zones. AllDion Cliffs, fine. * Alma, scarlet flower ; leaves deeply margined with white. B.* Beauty of Canlderdale, large leaf; extra. * Bijou, bright scarlet ; leaves margined with pure white. B. Black Douglas, fine. , Bright Star, one of the hest. * Castle Milk, variegation very white ; extra fine. B. Countess of Kellie, distinctly zoned, and very effective. , G.* Crystal Palace Gem, an improvement on Cloth-of-Gold ; extra line. 28 PELAKGONIUMS. Dandy, white variegation ; very dwarf, and good for small bods. T. Dr Masters, a highly-coloured variety. B.* Earl Rosslyn, fine. T. Empress of India. * Flower of Spring, flowers cerise ; leaves deeply margined with white. G. G-olden Harry Hiover, iine for edgings. G. Golden Pheasant, fine gold-leaved variety. G. Golden Tom Thumb, similar to Golden Chain, but stronger. B.* Imperatrice Eugenie, clear yellow ground with crimson zone. T.* Lady Cullum, resembles Mrs Pollock. Lady Plymouth, variegated white and green ; sweet-scented, and on some soils admirably adapted for edgings. Lord Carlingford, line. T,* Louisa Smitli, like Mrs Pollock ; free grower. B. MacMahou, fine. T.* Macbeth, perhaps the best bedding of tricolors. * Mangles, an old and most useful variegated white-and-green sort. T. Masterpiece, brightly zoned ; fine. May Queen. T. Mr Henry Cox, zone of crimson, bright yellow margin ; line. B.* Mrs Harrison Weir, rich yellow leaves, with dark zone ; fine. T.* Mrs Headley, very fine. T.* Mrs H. Waiter, fine. * Mrs Kingsbury, very effective. T.* Mrs Pollock, margined with yellow, bronze zone, belted with crimson ; splendid free-growing variety. B.* Mrs Quilter, leaves pale yellow, dark zone ; grand sort. B. Mrs Whalley, leaves large, golden-yellow centre with chestnut zone. Mrs Carr, double pink flowers ; fine. G. Pet of the Parten-e, fine. G. Pillar of Gold, fine. Pink Pearl. Princess Alexandra, tine. B. Prince Arthur, leaves deep yellow, with chocolate zone ; fine. B.* Princess of Wales, smooth, well-marked, and free grower. T. Queen of Tricolors, extra fine. * Queen of Queens, large scarlet flowers, silvery-edged leaf ; extra fine. T.* Queen Victoria, tine smooth foliage. B.* Robert Burns, very large leaf, bright yellow, with very dark zone ; a grand variety. G. Robert Fish, fine for edgings. * Shottesham Pet, creamy variegated. Silver Chain, pink blooms, silvery-margined leaf. T.* Sophia Cusack, extra fine. T. Stanstead Bride. St Clair, large trusses, pink flower, in great profusion. The Queen, silver variegated ; fine. B. The Shah, large yellow leaves of great substance, with well-defined zone ; very fine. Variegated Tom Thumb, scarlet flowers, leaves margined with white. Venus, like Flower of Spring, but has a light rosy-jiink flower. G. Verona, fine pink flower. Waltham Bride, white flowers and sil\-cry leaves ; fine. T. W. E. Gumbleton, dark zone, golden ground. B. Zulu Chief. Instructions for those who have neither Pit nor Greenhouse, and who wish to Winter Pelargoniums in a S2Mre Room. — Under all circumstances, and more especially when Pelargoniums have to WINTEEING IN SPAKE KOOMS. 29 be wintered in a spare room, tlie cuttings sliould be put in before the middle of August. Amateurs are vei'.y often in error in selecting far too small cuttings — the mere points of the shoots. As the successful preservation, under not very favourable circumstances, depends so much on the description of cutting selected, I want to impress those whom I am now addressing with the desirability of selecting large cuttings. They should be from 8 to 10 inches long, according to the respective sorts, instead of 3 to 4 inches, as is so frequently the case. Strong firm cuttings not only root more speedily, and with scarcely a failure, but they stand the trials of winter better and with far less attention, and in spring make finer plants with less nursing than small ones. To preserve them in rooms with the greatest possible success, I recommend 8-incli pots instead of wooden boxes. The pots should be well drained and filled up with a compost consisting of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, in equal proportions. This is the best soil ; but when it cannot be had, common light garden soil and road-drift in equal proportions, with the addition of a little sand, does very well, and is easily attained by most amateurs. The pots should be filled up firmly with this com- post after it has been passed through a half-inch sieve. The cuttings should not be put in too thickly. Fifteen in an 8-inch pot are plenty, and in the case of the strongest sorts even 12 are enough. After the cuttings are made, and dibliled in as formerly directed, the best place to set them to root is the hottest place outdoors, where they can have as much sunshine as possible. If struck and nursed in the shade, they never thrive nor winter so well as do those hardy stubby plants that are struck in the full sun and air. They should be left outdoors as long as there is no danger of injury from frost or heavy rains; and, in this case, if they can be sheltered from these, they are best left out till near the end of October. This will be better for them than placing them in a room, unless the trouble be taken to set them outdoors every fine day. By this treatment plants are produced that rustle as the hand is drawn over the leaves, and are therefore much more able to go through the hardships of winter than are cuttings struck later, or in some shady corner. The best place to winter them in is a room with a bovr- window having a south aspect, inasmuch as they get much jnore light than in an ordinary window; and if the window- shutters are white, all the better, as the light is thereby re- 30 PELAEGONIUMS. fleeted on to the plants. After housing them for winter, they should have no more water than is sufl&cient to keep them from drooping, and that will not be a great deal, unless in a room where a strong fire is kept. It is often, I might say, painful to see Pelargoniums which have been struck late and placed in a window, supplied with a liberal quantity of water, which they are unable to absorb because of the poverty of their roots. Of course, a large percentage of deaths is the result. Over- water- ing is one of the greatest evils when they are stored in a room where frost is merely excluded. By being kept comparatively dry, they multiply their active rootlets much more, and acquire an amount of irritability which insures rapid progress and robust plants in spring. It is not possible to give definite instructions as to the quantity of water that should be applied. In a room with a constant fire, more will be called for than where there is no regular fire. Plants in rooms are generally placed in saucers to prevent the water from being spilt ; and in the dead of winter it is a good plan to pour a little water into the saucers, to rise by capillary attraction to the soil and roots. This prevents damp about the stems and leaves near the surface of the soil. In a cool room, where there is only a fire made in very damp or cold weather, to dry the room and keep the plants safe from frost, very little water indeed is required. They should just be kept from drooping, but nothing more. In severe frost they can be lifted into the warmest comer of the room, and covered over with a cloth; but a little fire, with some extra protection at the window, is preferable to covering up. Pelargoniums, in the hardy condition that I have described, will not sufier with the thermometer at the freezing-point, if all about them is dry. Dust must be kept from collecting in the leaves and filling up the pores. This is best prevented by sponging the leaves with a moist sponge. Managed in this way, they give comparatively little trouble in spring, when, with the increase of light, heat, and water, they make fine strong plants, which, after being hardened ofi' by being set outdoors every fine day after the middle of April, may be shaken out of their pots and planted out with success. Of course, when the weather is fine, they should be supplied with air by opening the windows, when it is not desirable or con- venient to set them outdoors. Amateurs will find other points of management in former paragraphs, which it is not necessary to repeat here. Lifting and Wintering OM Pelargonium Plants. — In cold LIFTING AND -WINTERING OLD PLANTS. 31 localities, where the soil and subsoil are damp, young plants have a tendency to grow too much to leaf, and yield but a scanty amount of bloom. Under such circumstances, it is very desirable to lift a good many old plants out of the beds in autumn, and preserve them for another year's service. Old plants, in damp localities particularly, always bloom much more freely than either autumn or spring struck plants. To winter these successfully, they should be lifted before they get injured by frost. They should be raised out of the bed with a spade, preserving as many of their roots as possible, and taking care not to bruise their stems. All the large leaves with long footstalks that are likely to wither and decay about the plants should be removed at once, and the long straggling roots cut back a little. The more entire the plants are pre- served, the more certain is their well-doing ; and I recommend the removal of the large leaves only to avoid their damping or decaying about the stems. They may be potted singly, or two or three together, in 5 and 6 inch pots. It is not desirable, if potted singly, to use larger pots than will just hold the roots and steady the plants. To pot singly requires more room and labour. I am very partial to the plan of potting six to eight plants in 8-inch pots, and shaking them out and potting singly in spring as room can be afforded them. When a number are thus potted closely together in one pot, all their leaves should be removed, except those which are about the size of a half- penny at the points of the shoots. For the more hardy and robust sorts, boxes may be used instead of pots; but for the tender variegated sorts 8-inoh pots are decidedly preferable, when there is not convenience to pot each plant singly in. smaller pots. Whether pots or boxes be used, the treatment required is much the same. The soil used should be light and moderately rich. One part loam, one part leaf-mould, and one part sand, makes a fine compost, sifted through a half-inch sieve, to make it sufficiently fine to be easily worked or packed closely about the roots. In potting, press the soil firmly down, and make it compact and close, so that air may be as much as possible excluded from the roots. If the soil is, as it ought to be, moderately moist, water will not be necessary for some time at so dull a season, especially as the greatest enemy to the well- doing of the plants is damp. To render it unnecessary to apply water, and at the same time keep the roots in a medium sufficiently moist, it is an excellent plan to cover the surface of 32 PBLAEGONIUMS. the soil in the pots with about half an inch of very fine dry soil. This prevents evaporation, and keeps the soil moist without watering for a long time. This treatment applies especially to the case of those who are not able to give the newly-lifted plants a start in heat at a temperature of 60° till they begin to root afresh and make new leaves. Where they can be placed in heat for a month or six weeks after being lifted, they should be watered at once. Wheii this can be done, I do not recommend that the plants should be so much denuded of their leaves when potted ; on the contrary, the greater portion of the leaves should be left. When, after they have had a start in heat, they are removed to a cooler place, they should just have sufficient water for the winter to prevent their showing signs of distress. Pelargoniums managed thus can be cut down in spring, and the cuttings struck ; and the old plants, having a hold of the soil, break afresh, and make splendid dwarf bushy plants that bloom with great profusion ; but for the centres of beds and back rows, a portion of the plants should be left without being cut down. Lifted plants, such as are now being treated of, when managed as has been directed, can be wintered with a tolerable amount of success in any dry cool place where frost can be excluded, such as a spare room, loft, outhouse, or even cellar, where they will not be subject to damp, and where the tem- perature ranges from 35° to 40°. If to be placed in such sit- uations, the whole of the leaves are best removed when lifted, and they should not be watered till spring. Indeed, the soil in which they are potted or boxed should be rather drier than it is generally used for potting. Success depends on dryness and an equal temperature, to prevent their suffering on the one hand from cold, and on the other from such a degree of heat as would excite them into growth in the absence of other favour- able conditions. Wlierever they are wintered, they should be frequently examined, every morsel of decay cut away, and the wounds dusted with lime in a dry and caustic state. When stowed away in dark places, where there is a difficulty in keeping the atmosphere about them sufficiently dry, they should be lifted out occasionally for a few hours in the middle of fine days. It must, however, be remembered, that wintering them in such places is, at the best, a makeshift. Still it is well that such useful plants as Pelargoniums can be preserved in such places, and those who can command no better need not be without them. TUBEKOUS-EOOTED BEGONIAS. 33 Amateurs who are destitute of any Jietter resources than those referred to, would do well, especially in damp soils, not to plant their Pelargoniums in the usual way, but to plunge them, pots and all, into the beds. In this way they grow less robustly, flower more freely, and are easily lifted and housed in autumn without being severely checked. Being established in their pots, and their growth stubby and firm, they are in the best possible condition for rough treatment in winter. Should they be considered too tall, they should be cut down in spring to within 6 or 8 inches of the rim of the pots. Tuberous-Rooted Begonias. — The extent to which these very showy plants have been used in outdoor flower-gardening of late years, and the splendid crop of pleasing flowers which they pro- duce for months in succession, could scarcely have been antici- pated a dozen years since. Among tender bedding plants there is perhaps no other genus so efiective when properly cultivated. Their wonderful power of withstanding the heaviest rains without being damaged, gives them a superiority over even our finest Pelargoniums. This no doubt accounts for the hundreds of thousands raised annually, and sold by several nurserymen who have made Begonias a speciality. Besides the qualities referred to, they are so easily stored in winter and managed in spring before being planted out, that every one who has cold frames can grow them perfectly well. These Begonias can be very easily raised in thousands if necessary, by those who have the command of artificial heat ia early spring. And the first season from the seed, they can be made to produce a splendid display in beds and mixed borders. In the case of those who have no artificial heat, it is best to procure a stock of seedling bulbs from the nurserymen who grow them so extensively, and who send them out in a dormant state at moderate prices. To raise them from seed, it should be sown about the middle of January, in well-drained pans of light rich soil. The surface soil should be sifted through a sieve with an eighth of an inch mesh. It should not be covered, only gently pressed with the hand, and watered carefully with a fine rose. The pan should then be covered with a square of glass, and placed in a temperature of 60° to 65°, until the seeds show signs of vegetating. The surface of the soil must be attentively supplied with moisture ; but after vegetating, mois- ture must not be overdone, or the tender seedlings may damp ofi'. They should be raised so as to be within a few inches of the roof of the house or pit, and of course the glass covering to the pan discontinued. As soon as they can be handled, they o 34 VBEBENAS. should be carefully pricked off into light rich soil, placing them an inch apart. When they thoroughly meet in the pans or boxes, pot them into 2|-inch pots, and when these are pretty well filled with roots, shift into 5 -inch pots: all the while keep them in a temperature of about G0°, and never allow them to get dry, as they are moisture-loving plants. When they begin to grow freely in the 5-inch pots, remove to a cold pit, keeping them near the glass, and excluding frost. Here they will grow steadily and be fine plants, ready for planting out when all danger of frost is past. The first season from seed is the only one in which they require much care and attention. When lifted in autumn (or if received from the nursery), we winter thou- sands of the bulbs in barrels among rather finely sifted leaf- mould, or any light, moderately moist soil. The barrels are placed in a cool shed, where frost cannot get at them. They remain in the barrels till spring, when they are frequently looked at, and the moment they show signs of sprouting, they are taken out and planted in cold frames in light rich soil. Here, with plenty of air and light, they make splendid sturdy growths, and are lifted with balls and planted where they are to bloom, when they are safe from frost. The beds or borders in which they are to bloom should have a good dressing of manure dug into them ; and if mulched when planted with some finely broken up manure or leaf-mould to keep the beds moist, all the better. Should the season be dry, copious waterings will be necessary. The reason why Begonias have not been satisfactory in many instances, is simply that water and manure have not been applied in sufficient quantity ; and we know of no bedding plant that so well repays careful culture in these respects. The same bulbs will do duty in this way for years. As they gain strength, fewer are required to fill a bed. There are now many pleasing shades of colours, from pure white up through pinks, rose, cerise, violet, purple, to scarlet and crimsons of the deepest shades ; and if the seed be carefully saved, they come wonderfully true. The stock of extra fiLne varieties can be freely increased by cuttings in cold frames or even hand-lights in summer, choosing good strong cuttings, and inserting them in light sandy soil. The strains are now so fine that it is not necessary to buy named sorts for bedding. Verbenas — Autumn Frojiagation and Winter Treatment. — Looking at Verbena cuttings before they are taken from the AUTUMN PROPAGATION. 35 parent plants, we see them in all the health and vigour attain- able in a rich soil, and under the influence of sun and air. The end to be attained is not simply how to get them rooted and established as independent plants: this could be- effected in many ways, and at different times. The question is, how to effect it in the easiest, quickest, and most convenient way, and at the same time entail the least possible debility on the young plants in the process of striking ; and when struck, how best to treat and dispose of them, so that they will go through the winter in the greatest health and robustness possible. Early in August, about 9 or 10 inches of half -rotted leaves are beaten firmly in the bottom of a cold frame ; over the leaves is put about 3 inches of light soil, composed of one part loam, one part well-rotted leaf -mould, and rather more than one part of sand : this is well mixed, passed through a half-inch sieve, and firmly beat down with the back of a spade : in this state the frame is in readiness for the propagator. There is not much ceremony about the selection of Verbena cuttings, beyond their being short, stubby, fresh shoots, that have not yielded blooms, and become wiry and long-jointed. They are cut through at the third joint from the top, the two bottom leaves removed, and dibbled into the frame about an inch apart as they are made, and all watered with as little delay as possible, so that they are not allowed to droop and get checked by being dried up. When all are in, they receive an extra watering, sufficient to moisten the whole of the 3 inches of soil, so that after- watering is rarely necessary till they have formed roots. The frame is shut down, and during strong sunshine in the middle of the day they are shaded for a few hours with double mats ; at other times, and during not very bright days, one mat is sufficient. In fact, everything is now done to keep them cool. If the evenings are calm, the lights are either tilted up or drawn off for a few hours ; and when put on for the night, air is left on. In the morning, if the day is likely to be hot, they are gently dewed overhead with a very fine rose or syringe. Under such treatment they root without making much top-growth — very little, indeed, as compared with similar cuttings struck later in the season in warmer quarters. When they have made roots about an inch long, they are pricked off in round pans 14 inches in diameter, and 5 to 7 inches deep. For the more healthy and vigorous-growing kinds, boxes answer very well ; but I prefer earthenware to wood for delicate sorts, such as Purple King. The pans are prepared by placing 36 TEKBENAS. a thin layer of finely-broken crocks in the bottom, then a layer of old mushroom dung; and they are filled up with a very substantial compost, consisting of equal parts of loam and mushroom dung, and a slight addition of sand. About thirty plants are dibbled into each pan, with as little injury to their short young roots as possible. They are then returned to cold frames, shaded slightly for a few days, and as soon as possible, but gradually, fully exposed to all weathers except heavy rains. They grow rapidly, and are repeatedly stopped and kept free from bloom-buds as they grow. They are placed in their winter- quarters about the middle of October, and by that time they are strong healthy plants, leaving not a vestige of the soil in the pans to be seen. From their vigorous and hardy condition, they can be wintered in an airy, cool, dry house or pit, from which frost can be excluded. In the matter of watering, they should never be allowed to become dry, nor yet be kept otherwise than just moist, through the winter months. There is, however, more injury likely to arise from drought to such plants as Verbenas than from a little overdose of water. The pans being thoroughly filled with strong healthy roots, they are less likely to suflfer from water than weaklings that have been struck in September in heat. By following out this early and cool propagation, the amateur who can only command a hand-glass, or a few flower-pots and some panes of glass, can root and get up a nice healthy stock of Verbenas, that he could winter in the spare-room window, or in a moderately light place, where he can keep them from frost. The more light, however, in winter the better : they could be placed outside, to get fresh air and light in fine weather, in winter and spring. They are very subject to green-fly and mildew in winter, and these pests must be kept under by tobacco-smoke and flowers of sulphur. Spring Propagation. — Although fine fresh-looking cuttings could be taken from such pans or boxes before being put into heat, it is best to put a growth on them in heat first. They strike more freely after being a fortnight in a moist atmosphere with a temperature of about 65°. If placed near the glass when being thus forced, all the better. This system of wintering a considerable number in large pans saves much time and labour, and affords a far healthier supply of cuttings. The production of fine healthy cuttings quickly in spring is a very important point in preparing the requisite number of plants; for if SPKING PEOPAGATION. 37 cuttings cannot be had in quantities at a time, propagation is necessarily extended over a longer period, and much valuable time is frittered away in nibbling over small numbers at many different times. To strike cuttings of Verbenas in spring, I am not certain that any appliance for the supply of heat is better than the old hotbed, properly prepared with dung and leaves. There is, however, much less labour attendant on the operation when a more modern propagating house or pit is at command. And where the heat can be regulated by means of hot- water pipes — and all gardeners who have much flower-gardening to do should be supplied with such a house — circumstances will, in most instances, decide how the top and bottom heat necessary for spring propagation is to be supplied ; but those who cannot command a smart top and bottom heat need not attempt spring propagation. To do it in cold pits or frames is out of the question. At the same time, any amateur or gardener who can make up a hotbed 6 feet by 8, and about 4 feet deep, and put a hot lining to it when the heat declines, is in a position to pro- pagate many thousands of plants through the course of March and April. Sawdust, cinder-ashes, or a little tan, or even light dry earth, when nothuig better can be had, to plunge the cutting pots or pans in, and sand to put the cuttings in, are the principal materials wanted. There are few operations within the whole range of gardening calculated to prove a more pleasing recreation than the propagation and rearing of young plants ; and when the gaieties of the garden are the work of one's own hands, this must enhance many degrees the pleasure and satisfaction derivable from such a source. For the sake of amateurs, I will remark that there are many simple ways of propagation, so far as the source of heat is concerned. Take, for instance, a vinery or forcing-pit, heated by either flue or hot water. Let a box 15 or 16 inches deep be placed on the flue or pipes, fill it half-way up with sandy soil, and follo^^' with an inch or two of finely-sifted sandy and light rich earth in equal proportions, and over all an inch or two of pure sand. Cuttings of Verbenas, and many other plants, inserted in the sand and covered by a few large panes of glass over the mouth of the box, will root freely. A space of 2 or 3 square feet used in this way, may be made to produce as many plants as will fill a good many beds. Verbenas have a wonderful power of emitting roots when they are in a healthy, growing condition ; and in a high tem- 38 VEBBENAS. perature, where the atmosphere is moist, they will root without bottom-heat, but of course not so freely and surely as with it. A good practice, in the absence of a propagating-pit supplied with bottom-heat by hot water, is to propagate in a pit the body of which is filled up with hot leaves, and about a foot of tan on the surface, while the atmosphere is heated by hot- water pipes. It does not matter much, so far as mere striking is concerned, into what sort of vessels the cuttings are put. But looking at the work in the light of time, labour, and attention, as well as economy of space, shallow boxes 2^ feet by 1^ foot, and about 4 inches deep, are the best. The crocking and nibbling connected with small pots and some other makeshift receptacles are avoided. In the case of these boxes, all that is necessary in preparing them is to strew a little of the rough and fibry part of loam, or any open material, over the bottom ; blind this over with a little finer mould, and then lay on a sufficient depth of sand for the insertion of the cuttings. From 500 to 700 Verbena cuttings, according to their size, are put into each of these boxes. After being well watered, they are placed on the surface of the warm tan. Here they root in a few days, without any further watering or attention beyond being shaded from the sun ; and very little space is required to raise a large stock of plants. Perhaps the most speedy way, where a very strong heat can be commanded, is to fill common garden-flats with pure sand ; water it till it becomes quite soft and full of water. Into this the cuttings are put, and placed on a strong heat. They root very quickly, and with very little trouble ; but there must be a bottom-heat of from 90° to 100° to carry out this plan successfully. Although every joint of most sorts of Verbenas may be made into a cutting, a decided preference is given to strong cut- tings. They require a shorter time's nursing in heat before being hardened ofi', and it is much preferable to have to pinch the tops off than to subject morsels of cuttings to weeks of coaxing. As soon as the cuttings have made roots from half an inch to an inch long, they are immediately pricked oft". "When allowed to remain longer in a strong heat in sand, they become drawn and weakly, and make long roots, which are broken more or less when pricking ofi' is delayed. For this purpose the same sort of boxes as those recommended for striking is used, and from which the Scarlet and other Pelargoniums have at this season SOIL SUITABLE FOK VERBENAS. 39 just been potted off. A crock is put over each liole at the bottom of the box ; theii about an inch and a half of mushroom- bed dung, sifted through an inch sieve. The boxes are then filled up nearly to the top with loam and leaf -mould, in equal parts, with a Little sand. Into each box from 150 to 200 plants are pricked. They are then put into any convenient place where they can have a night temperature of 60°. They are shaded as little as possible, no more than is necessary, in conjunction with a moist atmosphere, and an occasional sprinkling overhead with a fine rose, to keep them from flagging. A short time in such quarters suffices to set them growing freely, and they are then removed to cold pits or frames where there is no artificial heat. For a week they are kept close, and sun-heat is husbanded by covering up early in the evening. In the case of those who cannot even accommodate newly- struck stock in heat after pricking off, the plants may be hardened off in the cutting-boxes, or whatever they are rooted in; and after they are well hardened, they may be pricked off into boxes or cold frames about the beginning of April. In this way they make fine plants by the end of May; or, as is some- times practised, a trench the same as for celery is thrown out, and filled up with hot leaves, over which a layer of light soil is placed, into which the hardened-off cuttings are pricked, to be merely protected by mats or canvas. And in the case of those who may not have the command of a corner in heat to strike cuttings in at all, their best and only way is to strike the required number of plants in autumn, and winter them as recommended. The management of Verbenas has been thus minutely entered into, because much of what is applicable to their propagation and management applies to a good many other things used for flower-gardening; and in the case of these, what has been here said need not be repeated. Soil suitable for Verhenas. — To have a long-continued bloom of Verbenas, the soil must be rich and loamy, but well drained. On dry sandy soil they bloom with great profusion for a time, but do not maintain it throughout the autumn so well as when the soil is of a heavier nature. Well-decomposed cow-manure is the best for light hot ground, and leaf-mould for heavy retentive soil. On very sandy ground it is almost hopeless to expect the Verbena to bloom for any length of time. Under such circumstances, the bed must be forced or made up with 40 VERBENAS. loam, or else the Pelargonium substituted for the Verbena, for Pelargoniums do better on hot soils. Select List of Verbenas most suitable for Beds. — The Pelar- gonium, with its every shade of colour, has very much displaced the Verbena for beds, but some of the following varieties are very eflfective : — Verbenas suitable foe Mixed Borders. Beauty of Deal, white, pink centre, large and sweet-scented. Carnation, white, striped with violet. Countess of Rosslyn, blu.sh, with carmine centre ; fine. Crystal Palace, crimson, wliite eye, fine truss. Diademe, crimson. Dr Dollinger, dark scarlet, tine truss. Eclipse, crimson; first-rate, Edward Perkins, large white, rose centre. Enchantress, white violet centre. General Jacqueminot, scarlet. George Peahody, red, primrose eye ; good. Great Eastern, very large, light pink, white eye. King of Lilacs, very fine lilac. Lass o' Gowrie, blush white, with red centre ; fine. Lustrous, scarlet white eye. Master Jacob, dark plum, white eye ; fine. Mauve Queen, fine mauve self. Miss Neville, pure white. Mrs Jno. Gould, lavender, creamy centre ; fine. Mrs Sanders, light blue, white eye ; fine. Nemesis, rich crimson. Purple Emperor, large truss, fine purple white eye. Roland, crimson. Suzanne Hugues, cerise, white centre. Bedding Verbenas. Scarlet. Crimson King. Edwin Day. Firefly. Foxhunter. Lord Raglan. Melindres Grandiflora. White. Bexley Heath Beauty. Blanche Castile. Le Grand Boule de Neige. Mrs Holford. Snowflake. Purple. Blue Bell. Celestial Blue. Purple Emperor. Purple King. Rose and Pink. Lady Cowley. Mrs Newman. Peacemaker. Sunny Thoughts. Crimson. Admiral Dundas. Couspicua. Eclipse. Geant des Batailles. Lord C. Percy. Maroon. Ariosto Improved. Master Jacobs. The older sorts are still the best for bedding, less attention havmg been given to raising bedding varieties than previously. AUTUMN PROPAGATION. 41 Shrubby Calceolarias. — Autumn rio2mgation. — Though the Shrubby Calceolaria is occasionally subject to disease, and to die oflf in quantities, especially on dry soils and in hot summers, it is nevertheless easy to propagate and grow. It has the great recommendation of being a plant which not only does not require heat at any time, but it always does best when not subjected to a high temperature. Like almost every other plant, the details of its propagation may be varied according to circumstances. Generally speaking, it flowers with such great profusion in summer, that it makes little or no growth from which cuttings can be had till October, and that is just the time when cuttings can be struck with most success. The cooler days of autumn, and its damp nights, are more favourable to growth; and young growths suitable for cuttings are then usually produced in profusion. The cuttings may be put in with success from the 1st of October till the end of November; but it is always best to take them as soon after the 1st of October as they can be had, and before they are touched with frost. In selecting the cuttings, choose those which are fresh-looking, of medium size, avoiding the largest sappy-looking cuttings, and those that are weak and wiry. They should not exceed 3 inches in length, nor have any incipient bloom-buds in them. If they have three joints, one to be inserted in the soil in the ordinary way, and two on which the leaves are to be left, it is quite sufficient. Such short compact cuttings are less subject to damp than the more succulent, long- jointed growths, and make more stubby young plants. A cold pit or frame placed in a dry position, and into which can be put a foot or more of any porous material that will not heat, such as spent leaves, or a spent cucumber or melon frame or pit, are excellent places for striking Calceolarias in; and when a pit which has a hot-water pipe, to be used only in cases of severe frost, is at command, all the better. Over the material in the bottom place about 6 inches of light soil, such as equal parts loam and leaf -mould, and finish off the surface of the bed with two parts leaf-mould, two parts sand, and one part loam, sifted through a half-inch sieve. Tliis, beat down firmly with the back of a spade, is ready for the cuttings, which should be inserted as they are made, and not allowed to droop. Two or three inches apart, according to the bulk of the various sorts, is not too much to allow; for if thicker, they are more apt to damp off and become drawn as soon as they begin to 42 CALCEOLAIIIAS. grow. A watering sufficient to wet the surface layer of sandy soil should be given at once. They now require to be carefully shaded from sunshine, kept shut up close by day when dry and breezy, taking off the shading as soon as the sun ceases to shine on the frame ; and when the weather is mild, leave a little air on each light all night. They require to be kept from frost when it occurs by coverings of mats, or any other dry loose material, such as hay or straw. In about two months the cuttings wiU be struck; and when the weather is mild, the glass should then be drawn off every day, except when it is rain or very damp, when, of course, they are best kept on and shut down. Every appearance of damp or mould must be removed through the winter, when frost is severe and continuous; and when they are not in a place where a hot- water pipe can be used, it is best to keep them covered up so long as the frost continues. Axid in the event of their being subject to a few degrees of frost, the coverings should not be removed when it thaws till the plants have thawed, and then the covering should be removed by degrees; and their exposure again to light and air should also be gradual. Those who have neither frame nor pit may strike Calceola- rias under hand-glasses, and preserve them all winter in dry sheltered spots, where there is no stagnant moisture, and where they can be covered up sufficiently during frost. And those who have merely a greenhouse without pit or frame accommo- dation, can strike them in pots or deep boxes in a shady part of the greenhouse, where the sun does not reach them till they are rooted. Spring Management. — As in the striking of Calceolarias, so in their after management, various ways may be adopted, according to circumstances. When grown in beds or boxes, they generally thrive best after they are planted out, without ever having been put into small pots at all. ^That I would recommend, and have adopted sometimes when suitable, in the absence of cold pits and frames, is to throw out trenches like those generally used for celery -beds, put 6 inches of rotten leaves in the bottom, and then 6 inches of light rich soil. Here the young plants, lifted with as little injury to their roots as possible, should be pricked out about the end of March, 6 inches apart each way. When all are planted, water well, and lay some trellis -work or common stakes across the trench, and cover with mats or canvas when cold weather renders it neces- CENTAUEEA ItAGUSINA. 43 sary. For the first fortnight after being transplanted, thoy should be shaded during the day when the sun shines. Thus managed, they make fine strong plants with very little attention. As they grow they should be looked over at inter- vals and topped, so as to keep them dwarf and well furnished. About three weeks before they are to be planted out, a spade, or any other sharp-edged tool, should be run along between the lines each way, cutting to the depth of 6 inches. This separates the roots of each plant from its fellow, checks them for the time, but causes them to make fresh roots nearer home; and the result is, that they lift with good balls, and scarcely re- ceive any check when planted out. Should they droop when thus operated upon, give them a good soaking of water. Amateurs and others requiring small quantities of plants may adopt a similar plan to this, by transplanting them into boxes 6 inches deep, prepared much the same as directed for the trench, and otherwise managing them in the same way. In this case they can be lifted into any outhouse, or even covered over outside in case of spring frosts. When from any cause the stock is not equal to the demand, the points of the young plants strike freely in March and April in a gentle heat; but autumn-struck plants are in all respects to be preferred. Soil most suitable for Calceolai-ias. — Like the Verbena, the Calceolaria requires a deep, rich, loamy soil to grow and flower it well throughout the season. They are very subject to die off in hot sandy soils, and at best do not bloom for any length of time. Tagetes signata pumila is the best substitute for Calceo- larias on light sandy soils, that are also too poor for Violas. Select List of Varieties most suitable for Beds. Those marked * are l)est. * Ambassador, "bronze crimsoin ; the best of the crimsons, 1 foot. Amplexicaulis, lemon ; fine for back lines and large beds, \\ foot. * Aurea floribunda, orange yellow ; suitable for damp localities, 1 foot. Bijou, crimson, 9 inches. * Golden Gem, deep yellow ; fine constitution and free bloomer, 15 inches. * Hyssopifolia, lemon, 9 inches ; compact in habit. Invincible, lemon, very dwarf; compact habit, free bloomer. Orange Boven, orange, 1 foot. " Prince of Orange, orange brown ; compact habit, 1 foot. Princess Louisa, .sulphur yellow ; dwarf good habit. Victor Emmanuel, .scarlet, sj)otted with crimson, 15 inches. Centaurea ragusina and its Varieties — Silver Foliage, 1 to Ij foot.— This beautiful silvery-foliaged plant ranks among tho 44 CENTAUKEA KAGUSINA. gems of its class. It is considered by some a difficult plant to propagate and winter. The way to manage it most success- fully is to keep a set of plants in pots, and grow them outdoors all summer and autumn, and to house them before the wet and damp weather of late autumn sets in, by which time they are fine stately plants, some in 6-inoh, some in 8-inch pots, and sometimes larger specimen plants, as the case may be. To keep them in the best state for affording fine healthy cuttings in spring — which is the best time to strike it — they require to be kept in a dry airy house, and to be sparingly supplied with water, just sufficient to keep them from drooping. It is a plant very liable to suffer from damp in winter, if freely supplied with moisture. In spring each plant is found with a quantity of young shoots suitable for cuttings studded all round it. If these shoots are short, and without a bit of clear stem about a couple of inches long, the plants should be put into heat till they make a little growth. When ready, these side-shoots are cut off close to the main stem of the plant, and made into cuttings iu the usual way. The pots or pans into which the cuttings are put should be well drained, and filled to within 3 inches of the top ■ftT.th equal parts leaf-mould, loam, and sand, and then filled up with pure sand. When the cuttings are put in, water well, and plunge them in bottom-heat, where there is a temperature of 70°. Plunging is not absolutely necessary, although thus treated they root more quickly. They may be placed on a shelf in a vinery or pine-pit, and shaded only during very bright sunshine. During the time they are striking they must be kept moderately and regularly moist, but wet the foliage as little as possible. As soon as they have made roots about 2 inches long, they should be potted off into 3-inch pots ; for if left till the roots extend more, they get broken off" in shaking them out. They like light rich soil and a temperature of 60° after they are potted off, till the roots reach the sides and bottom of the pots ; then they thrive best in a cool dry place. When big specimen plants are not to be kept over another summer in a large state, they may be cut up into large cuttings about 8 or 9 inches in length, "isith a portion of a firm stem. These, put to the number of about ten or twelve into an 8-inch pot, and placed in a temperature of 60° to 70° in the full sun, root more quickly than, and as certainly as, smaller cuttings; and when potted off into 5-iuch pots, make fine plants by IMay. The end of February is soon enough to begin taking cuttings VERBENA VENOSA. 45 for striking in. heat. If propagation be deferred till April, strong cuttings root well in a cold dry pit or frame, and make fine plants by the first of June. Strong cuttings put in in the middle of October, when old plants in beds can be lifted and broken up, strike well in a temperature of 65°, and are ready to pot ofT by Christmas. I have also increased this plant very successfully and with little trouble in April, by shaking out those that have been wintered in 6-inch pots, and that have perhaps three to four principal stems, and splitting them off down through the collar with a portion of the old roots attached to each. Those potted into 5-inch pots, and just placed in cold frames, make beautiful compact plants by the end of May. When planted out, the Centaurea is very impatient of cold, damp, ill- drained soil; and when in such soils it frequently rots off in wet weather in autumn, when it should be at its best. A good plan is to raise it above the surface, when planted as centres or panels, on a ring or two of stones or bricks. A light, rich, dry soil suits it best. It is a plant that does not lift well in autumn ; and the best way, when a reserve cannot be kept, is to plunge it in pots. Autumn propagation is seldom so successful as that of spring. If put in in August or September, they should be placed in a dry, airy, cool house, where they can have partial shade. C. argentea and gymnocarpa are also very effective sorts, and do well under the management described above. C. ragusina is very easily propagated by seeds, which, to make plants available for planting in May, require to be sown in a temperature of 65° in January; and when they can be con- veniently handled, potted singly into small pots, and kept in heat till the middle of April, when they require to be hardened off. Verbena venosa — Violet, \\ foot. — This old and distinct species of Verbena is, when it does well, one of the very best plants we have for large beds, lines, and groundworks. It is raised from seed sown in the early part of February, in a temperature of 65° to 70°. The seed should be steeped for several days before it is sown, and never allowed to become dry afterwards. It should be sown on an even surface of loam, leaf-mould, and sand in equal proportions, and very slightly covered. After watering well through a fine rose, cover the mouth of the pan or box with a pane of glass to prevent evaporation, and shade from the sun till the seed vegetates 46 LOBELIA EEINUS SPECIOSA. and the young seedlings appear. It is very irregular in its vegetating, and is sometimes pricked off from the same seed- box for nearly two months. As soon as the young plants form two rough leaves, prick them off into rich soil" about 1| inch apart, and keep them in heat till they meet in the box ; then put them into a cool place near the glass. It can be propagated by taking up its roots in spring, and cutting them into as many pieces as there are buds on them, placing these thickly in boxes, and putting them in a brisk bottom-heat till they appear above ground ; or the long fleshy roots can be put whole into boxes, sprung in heat, and the plant struck from cuttings like other Verbenas. Seed some- times does not vegetate freely, and it is well to have a reserve of roots to fall back upon. If left in. the ground to spring of its own accord, it comes up too irregularly. It is a grand autumn-flowering plant, but for early summer bloom it will not suit, being long in coming into bloom ; but when in bloom, it holds on till most others are over. It will not do well for poor hungry soil, as it must have rich soil ; and in cold, back- ward situations it does not bloom suflSciently early to warrant its being grown. Under favourable circumstances it does remarkably well, and affords a violet shade of colour, which is not easily got in any other plants suitable for grouping. Lobelia erinus speciosa. Blue, 4 to 6 indies — L. Mrs Murphy, Pure White — L. Bluestone, Blue — L. Brighton Blue — Ii. "Wave of Blue — Sno-wball, White — Swanley Blue — Paxtonii, Fale Blue — L. pumila lustrous. Blue — L. pumila grandi- flora magnifiea. Blue. — One of the chief recommendations of these popular and useful plants is that they are easy to manage. The first-named can be had sufficiently true for all practical purposes from seed, when carefully saved ; but the others, to be had true, must be propagated from cuttings. On cold soils and in wet localities it does not flower so profusely from seed as when perpetuated by cuttings. Either way it is easily managed. When raised from seed, this should be carefully selected from the plants that are most twiggy in habit, and that yield the greatest amount of bloom of the best blue. It should be sown, if possible, in September, and wintered in a cool dry place near the glass : a greenhouse temperature is sufiicient. Autumn sowing is the most desirable when early blooming is an object. When sown in heat the first week in February, and preserved POLEMONIUM C^EULEUM VARIEGATUM. 47 in stoVe-lieat for a couple of months, it makes fine strong plants by the end of May ; but those who can command nothing more than a greenhouse temperature should always sow in autumn. Sown in September, it vegetates freely without artificial heat. A pot, a pan, or box, according to the amount required, should be well crocked, and filled up to within an inch of the top with light rich soil ; and then a layer of finely-sifted soil, nicely smoothed and levelled, makes the vessel ready for the seed, which should not be sown very thickly, and not covered with any soil. The surface should be equally pressed down with the palm of the hand or a piece of smooth wood ; then water gently through a fine rose, and cover over with a bell-glass or piece of glass, and shade till the seed vegetates ; then the shade and glass should be removed, and the young plants gradually inured to light, but not scorching sunshine, till they get a good hold of the soil. The spring-sown crop should be placed in stove-heat and kept there till the plants are fit to handle and can be pricked ofi" ; then put them for a few days into an inter- mediate temperature. In pricking off, use the same sort of boxes recommended for Verbenas, prepared with the same soil ; only let the surface half -inch be made fine by being passed through a quarter-inch sieve. Each box 2j by 1^ foot holds 200 plants. They should be kept in heat till they nearly touch each other in the boxes, and then turned into cold pits and frames and hardened off. To propagate by cuttings, a few dozen store plants should be grown outdoors all summer, and never allowed to flower : in this way they form fine hardy growing plants. They can be wintered anywhere where frost can be excluded, and that is not damp. In February they are shifted and forced for cuttings, and managed the same way as recommended for Verbenas. Polemonium eaeruleum variegatum. ■ — Silvery Variegated Foliage, 1 foot. — This variegated form of Jacob's Ladder, which is a native of Britain, is one of the prettiest and most useful plants for lines and edgings, and though yet comparatively scarce, must eventually become a very popular favourite. It has a striking resemblance to a variegated fern. Being a British plant, it is of course perfectly hardy ; but my expe- rience of it for some time leads me to recommend its being lifted about the end of October, just before its foliage begins to fade, potted in light, rich, sandy soil, and wintered either 48 GLADIOLI. in a dry cold pit or a vinery or peach-house at rest, from which frost is excluded. Where large quantities of it are grown, it is less trouble to lay in light soil in a cold pit or frame, and it keeps its variegation equally as well as when potted. It should not be allowed to get dry through the winter. It begins to grow in spring in such a situation about the begin- ning of February ; and as soon as it has formed a few young leaves 2 or 3 inches long, is the best time to propagate it. It then begins to emit roots from the stem of each crown; and when it does that, shake it out and divide into as many pieces as there are single crowns, preserving the roots as entire as possible. Pot them singly and deeply up to the leaves in 3 or 4 inch pots; place them in a cold frame and shade from the sun, and keep them regularly moist. They wUl not bear drought. It is not necessary to pot it except when the sub- division, for the sake of propagation, is very minute or severe. It does very well to divide each plant lifted in autumn into three or four pieces in April, and plant it at once where it is to be all the season. If left ia the ground all winter, it loses its beautiful varie- gation to a great extent, and in many cases entirely. This does not occur when lifted, and hence the reason for lifting it at all. When well rooted, it should be planted out in a rather rich soil. If it shows any disposition to throw up flower-stems — which it rarely does — they should be cut away. By some this is considered a difficult plant to manage ; but, treated in this way, it is not found to be so. It grows much more freely and better marked in Scotland than in England. Gladioli. — It would be difficult to describe the beauty to which these have been brought. They are fine plants for back lines, and can be used with striking efl'ect planted thinly in large beds filled with dwarf er and more compact blooming plants. Some of the sorts — such as Brenchleyensis and Le Poussin, for instance — throw out lateral flower-spikes after the leader has gone out of flower, and such varieties flower for a long time. They are very easily managed plants. If wanted to bloom early, they should be potted singly and started in a little more than greenhouse temperature, and planted out early in May when about 6 inches high. But to flower in the latter part of August and onwards, they need not be potted where there is a suitable soil : all that is necessary is to plant them where SELECT LIST. 49 they are to bloom at once about the middle of April. Each bulb, when planted, should be covered with a little light sandy soil ; and when the soil is levelled over them, they should not be more than 2 inches deep. They thrive best in a deep, rich, sandy loam ; and in such soils, in favourable localities, they make splendid bulbs in this country. They should be left in the ground as long as there is no danger of frost getting at the bulbs ; and while the foliage keeps green, it is best to protect them by covering the surface of the bed with any light porous material till they have well matured their bulbs. I rarely lift them before the middle or end of November ; indeed they keep better in dry soils in the borders than by being lifted ; but care must be taken that frost does not reach the bulbs. Generally it is necessary to lift them, to allow of a different arrangement every year. The best place to keep them in during the winter is in any dry place where they will be cool and free from frost. The beds intended for Gladioli should always be trenched, well drained, and rich. They are most suitable for amateurs, as they can be kept through the winter with little trouble, and are cheap to purchase now. If wanted to bloom early and in cold localities, they will spring nicely in a room window in pots, and kept moderately moist. In good soils they double them- selves every year. They can also be increased by preserving the young bulbs about the size of peas, which form about the sides and bottoms of the parent bulbs. These should be pre- served by being mixed with light damp soil or sand all winter, and sown in spring in rows a foot apart, and two inches be- tween each bulb. In two years they make fine blooming bulbs. Select List of Gladioli. Adanson, rose, tinted with lilac, lower petals blotched with amaranth ; very striking variety. AdMe Souchet, white, shaded with rosy carmine ; large, fine shape. Afrioain, striped scarlet and pure white ; fine. Argus, fiery red, centre and lower petals white. Bayard, carmine red, and white ; fine. Bertha Eabourdin, pure white, shaded with carmine ; very fine. Brenchleyensis, deep crimson ; extra fiue for lines and masses. Camille, light lilac, mottled with mauve. Ceres, white, stained with purple. Charles Dickens, rose tinted, and striped with chamois and carmine. Comte de Momy, cherry, with white blotches ; very effective. Constance, amaranth, creamy blotches ; fine. Cuvier, amaranth, shaded with purple ; very large. De Lesseps, white, striped with red ; fine. Dr Lindley, rose ; lower petals blazed with carmine. Emperor Napoleon, vermilion, with white spots ; extra fine. Eurydice, pure white, blazed with rose ; very fine. 50 DAHLIAS. Flamboyant, bright scarlet ; large and fine. Fulton, vei-milion red, with purple stains ; large. Grand Eouge, scarlet, dotted with violet. Homer, amaranth, streaked purple ; very fine. Horace, scarlet, with white blotches ; fine. Imperatrice Eugenie, white, suffused with rose. James Veitch, crimson, stained with violet ; large and fine. John "Waterer, cherrj', with white stains. La Candeur, white, tinted with violet. Le Poussin, top petals light red, under ones pure while; most delicate and beautiful. Lord Byron, brilliant scarlet, stained and streaked with white ; most efTective. Mabel, white ground, carmine variegation ; fine. I\l.acaulay, crimson, stained with carmine ; very fine. Madame de S6vigne, cheiTy, stained with white. Madame Vilmorin, rose, with white centre, with darker rose edges ; extra fine. Marechal Vaillant, scarlet, stained with white. Meyerbeer, bright red, streaked with vermilion ; fine shape and substance. Milton, white, tinted with rose and blazed with red ; very fine. Mozart, violet, flecked with carmine. Napoleon, scarlet, under petals blotched with white ; one of the best. Nereid, rose, with violet dots. Newton, crimson, streaked with white ; very ple.asing variety. Opale, soft rose ; very large and Rne. Oracle, cherry rose. Orpheus, rosy white, flamed with carmine ; very fine. Papillon, yellow centre, edged with carmine ; fine. Pegasus, blush, maroon blotch ; fine. Penelope, fleshy white, lower petals yellowish, with stripes of carmine. Prince of Wales, bright red, with white blotch ; extra fine. Princess of Wales, white, blazed with carmine. Semirarais, rose and white ; fine. Shakespeare, white, blazed with rose ; large and showy. Solfaterre, sulphur yellow. Sultane, rose-shaded carmine. Thomas Methven, violet, tinted with rose. Velleda, orange rose; large and showy. Victor Jacqueminot, reddish, orange-flamed scarlet. Vulcan, vivid crimson. Walter Scott, flesh colour, spotted with yellow. Dahlias. — These old favourites are perhaps not no-w so much employed as their merits deserve. Very gorgeous masses can be made of the taller growing sorts when pegged down to make them suitably dwarf. But now that the race of compact dwarf-growing varieties has been increased and improved, they form a very effective group. The dwarf sorts, too, come much earlier into bloom than tall varieties; and though they are lacking in form, they yield a great and even mass of bloom. Their tubers are, with a few exceptions, not so subject to decay as some of the high-bred show flowers; and this is no small recommendation, now that so many tender plants have to be wintered with care. As soon as leaves and flowers are destroyoil by frost, the roots should be lifted ; or if inconvenient to do so immediately after DAHLIAS. 5 1 frost, a little earth should be drawn up round their stems, to prevent a second night's frost from injuring them near the surface of the soil : for if injured there, the stem is more likely to decay downwards, and cause destruction to the collection of buds at the base of the stem, upon which their life depends. Lift the roots carefully, cutting the stems away about 6 or 8 inches from the vital part of the tubers ; then allow them to remain three or four days in a cool dry shed, to dry them and the little mould that adheres to them ; after which, lay them close together on a dry floor; and when placed, put fine very dry soil all round and over them, filling up all the crevices about the tubers and up the stems till the vital parts of the root are covered about 3 inches. The storing place should be cool and dry. They should be examined about the end of January; and should they be looking well and fresh, covered over again for a month ; but if decay be doing its work, all the suspicious-looking tubers at least should be put into heat, to excite them into growth. But when all goes on well, the 1st of March is early enough to place them in heat, except in the case of those which are to be as much increased as possible, and these should be started early in February. Any place where they can be put in boxes, or on the shelf or._ floor of a house, and covered over "with some leaf -mould, with a temperature of 60°, will start them nicely. Most of the dwarf sorts are very easily struck from cuttings, which should be put in, when 3 or 4 inches long, in a place suitable for striking Verbenas and other bedding plants. Prince Arthur, which is probably our finest dwarf Dahlia, is very shy to sti'ike, and succeeds best when allowed to remain growing on the tuber till it throws out a root or two among the leaf-mould, which it does pretty freely. Those growths that root, if carefully removed with their roots and potted, always do well. Those which do not throw out roots are potted with a portion of the tuber attached. This variety keeps badly, and a stock of pot roots should always be held in reserve. When rooted, the free sorts, such as Zelinda, do well pricked ofi" into boxes and 8-inch pots, instead of potting them oS. Into an 8-inch pot about ten plan< s are put. Tender sorts require potting oS singly. For cold late soils it is best to pot all ; but in light early soils they sufier very little when shaken out and planted and watered at once, and much less room is required for them. They should be grown in a rather rich soil, well hardened ofi" before being planted, and not planted till at least the last days of May, even in favoured localities. 52 DAHLIAS — SELECT LIST. When it is desired to keep a stock of pot tubers, and tlie weakest cannot be spared for that purpose when the others are planted, the best way is to put in cuttings from the short side- shoots about the middle of July. They root freely in bottom- heat, and a number can be kept in a small space by using narrow deep pots. This is not necessary, except in the case of those which are troublesome to keep in the ordinary way. Prince Arthur is the worst I have grown, and even it keeps pretty well when lifted and wintered as has been described. Amateurs who cannot command the aid of a glass house or frame, with artificial heat, will find Dahlias not easily managed. I have known Dahlia roots kept well and flowered for years in succession, in dry soils especially, by simply cutting them down to the surface of the ground, and covering above and all round the roots with litter, ashes, or any other material that will exclude the frost. Indeed, Dahlia roots are probably as safe in this position as in any other. They start and come away with several shoots, which should be thinned out to one or two as soon as it can be seen wluch are the best to leave. Select List of Show Dahlias. Acme of Perfection, primrose, 4 feet. Alex. Cramond, shaded maroon, 3 feet. Bessie Ford, rosy pink, 3 feet. Burgimdy, dark puce, suffused with purple, 3 feet. Buttercup, bright yellow, 4 feet. Cardinal, scarlet, 3 feet. Cecilia, pale yellow, 3 feet. Charles Backhouse, bright scarlet, 6 feet. Charles Lidgard, yellow, crimson edge, 4 feet. Clara, rosy peach, 4 feet. Constancy, yellow and lake, 3 feet. Criterion, rosy lilac, 4 feet. George Dickson, chestnut brown, 4 feet. George Eawlings, dark maroon, 4 feet. Golden Gem, yellow, four feet. Herbert Turner, French white, 3 feet. James Huntly, purple, 3 to 4 feet. James Service, dark crimson, 4 feet. King of Primroses, primrose, 3 feet. Lady Wimborne, deep pink, 4 feet Memorial, pale rose, 3 feet. Mrs Gladstone, soft pink, extr.i, 4 feet. Mrs Glassock, pure white, 4 feet. Mrs Shirley Hibbert, cream -shaded pink, 3 feet. Royalty, orange, 4 feet. Sunbeam, buff, 3 feet. Toison d'Or, pure yellow, 4 feet. Vice-President, orange, 3 feet. Select List of Fancy Dahlias. Adventure, striped red, 3 feet. Annie Pritchard, white, striped lilac, 4 feet. Attraction, white striped, and spotted with purple, 3 feet. Billy Button, buff, striped with maroon, 3 feet. Charles Wyatt, deep rose-flaked crimson, 4 feet. • Duchess of Albany, orange, crimson stripes, 3 feet. Gaiety, yellow, striped red, 4 feet. Gem, rich rosy crimson, tipped with white, 3 feet. Grand Sultan, bnff, red stripes, 3 feet. Hero, crimson, shaded with light puce, 3 feet. Hugh Austin, orange scarlet, striped dark red, 3 feet. ACHYEOCLINE — ANTIEEIIINUMS. 53 Mrs Tiiselton, crimson purple, tipped wliite, 3 feet. President Lincoln, tuff, striped orange, 3 feet. Prince of Wales, orange, spotted and striped with scarlet, 4 feet. Professor Fawoett, lilac, striped chocolate, 3 feet. Purple Flake, purple, striped white, 3 feet. Rebecca, lilac, striped crimson, 3 feet. Regalia, lilac, striped and spotted with crimson, 4 feet. Sparkler, white, tipped with purple, 3 feet. Select List of Dtoarf Dahlias. For a small collection * Alba iloribunda, best white, 2 feet. Captain Ingram, crimson, 2 feet. Carl Mendal, crimson, 2i feet. Cloth-of-Gold, bright yellow, 2 feet. Crimson Gem, glowing crimson, 2 feet. Gem of the Dwarfs, crimson, tipped with white, 2 feet. George Thomson, primrose yellow, 2| feet. John Wyatt, scarlet, 2 feet. those marked * are best. Marguerite Bruant, white, 2^ feet. * Pluton, fine yellow, 2 feet. * Rising Sun, intense scarlet, large bloom, very effective, and comes early into bloom, 2 feet. * Royal Purple, very free and effective, 2 feet. * Scarlet Tom Thumb, best scarlet, 16 inches. * Zelinda, purple, 18 inches. * Zelinda, yellow, 20 inches. Single and Cactus Dahlias. Acquisition, crimson. Alba, or White Queen, white. Cochineal (cactus), dark crimson. Como, pink. Constance (cactus), white. Duchess of Westminster, white. Ellen Terry, pale peach. Evening Star, bright crimson. Firefly, orange scarlet. Francis Bell, rosy purple. Harlequin, deep rose. Huntsman, crimson. Laurezi (cactus), crimson. Lucy Ireland, rich magenta. Miss Mary Anderson, bright crimson. Mrs Hawkins, yellow. Nora, bright pink. Rob Roy, bright scarlet. Sunbeam, deep yellow. Sunset, yellow, tipped with red. Yellow Queen, yellow. Zephyr, crimson and bronze. Aehyrocline Saundersonii — 1 foot to 15 inches. — A very effective silvery-foliaged plant for edgings, quite as white as Cineraria maritima, much more compact, and like the upright- growing Santolina. It can be wintered in a cold frame, and strikes freely under hand-glasses in summer and autumn, and in a temperature of 60° in spring. When well rooted, pot off into small- pots in light rich soil. Antirrhinums (Snapdragon) — 1 to 2 feet high. — Some of these are remarkably showy, and desirable for mixed borders. They can be raised from seed sown in March for autumnal blooming the same way as Stocks ; and to stand the winter for early flowering, they require to be sown and managed the same way as directed for biennials. Named sorts must be perpetuated and propagated from cuttings, which strike very freely both in autumn and spring in the same way as Verbenas. When rooted, pot or prick them into boxes or frames. 54 AMAUANTHOS — ASTEKS. A(lmiratioi), yellow and bronze, striped with yellow. Argus, yellow and crimson. Avenir, yellow, mottled witli crimson. Bertha, striped and mottled with claret. Bride, white and rose. Canary, crimson and white. Coronet, canary and crimson. Eclat, white, striped with purplish crimson. Paiiy, white and rose. Gazelle, sulphury white, striped with rose. Goldfinch, yellow and crimson. Harlequin, white, mottled with rcse. Hendersonii, white, with violet belt. Hero, crimson. Julia, yellow and crimson. Le Grand French, white, striped with cerise. Mayo, light yellow and crimson. Model, bronze and purple. Olga, crimson. Phidias, white and crimson. Premier, white and rose. Eegalia, yellow and bronze, striped mth crimsou. Bob Roy, white and scarlet. Sparkler, white and purple. Stella, white and crimson. Striped Unique, white, striped with crimson. The Bride, orange, mottled and striped with red. Virginia, pure white, splashed with rose. Vulcan, crimson and yellow. Yellow Boy, yellow. Amaranthus caudatus (Love -Lies -Bleeding) — Crimson, 2 to ifeet — When well managed, this is one of the most imposing and striking-looking plants that can be grown for back lines and as single specimens. I have grown it in lines 4 feet high, with its crimson ropes pendent to the ground. To grow it well, and get it early to perfection, it should be sown in the begin- ning of April in a slight hotbed, very similar to the manner in which Celery seed is sown. It always does better sown in a slight hotbed than sown in boxes in heat. When about 4 inches high, it should be transplanted to its blooming position — well watered, and shaded by a few evergreen boughs, or by being covered with flower-pots through the A&y, for a short time. The soil should be deep and rich ; and when it has arrived at its full size, a few of the leaves should be removed to show ofi" its crimson racemes to advantage. Of course it suc- ceeds very well sown in the open border in the end of April, but it never attains the same magnificence as when brought forward earlier. Asters. — These are so very much improved, that they deserve more attention as autumn flowers. For mixed borders, and AGATHEA — ALTEKNANTHEEAS. 55 even for beds and Knes, they are very effective. They require to be sown at the end of March, either in a slight hotbed or in boxes in heat. They should be kept near the glass, and not over-watered till ready to handle freely, when they should, to do them justice, either be potted singly in small pots, or pricked off into frames two inches apart each way. When they begin to grow freely, give plenty of air, and keep them rather dry than otherwise to make them stocky. They do best in a warm situation, in rich soil, into which transplant with balls, and water, if the weather be dry, till they begin to grow freely. The bouquet varieties are especially neat and useful for cutting for vase and stand decoration. Agathea eoelestis. Pale Blue, 9 inches — A. ooelestis varie- gata, Variegated Foliage, 6 inches. — Although this plant is not so much grown as it was at one time, it is worth enumerating and cultivating, and for some purposes deserves a place among bedding plants. It produces a very pretty effect by mixing it with Mangles' Variegated Geranium. Autumn-struck plants generally flower best. Cuttings should be put in pans or boxes in August, and in spring pot them off, and give them a little heat for fourteen days. The variegated form of this plant is rather shy of growth ; rich dry soil is most suitable for it. Altemanthera amoena — A. amcsna speetabilis — A. m.agni- flea — A. aurea nana — A. amabilis — A. amabilis latifolia — A. paronychioides — A. paronychioides major — A. tricolor — A. versicolor. — These bright little and rather tender plants do not succeed in cold wet districts ; but in the drier and warmer parts of the country they produce very pretty, bright effects, especially in carpet-bedding, now so fashionable. Any one who has not a place somewhat warmer than an ordinary greenhouse cannot winter them successfully. But when they can be placed in an intermediate temperature they are easily managed. They strike as freely as a Verbena, and the stock can either be rooted in August and kept over in pans or boxes, or stock plants can be kept and cuttings taken in March, when they strike very rapidly in bottom-heat in a dung-frame or propa- gating pit. They should be potted off singly or pinched off in light rich soil in boxes, and kept warm till well established. Before putting them out — which should not be before the middle of June — they should be gradually and well hardened off. They like rich soil and plenty of water in dry weather. 5 6 ARUNDO — AGAPANTHUS — AKABIS— AGEEATUM. Arundo donax variegata — 4 to 8 feet. — This plant has been truthfully described as "the most stately and graceful of all known variegated grasses of the garden. It forms a robust, vigorous plant of majestic habit, with long, broad, elegantly decurved leaves 1^ to 3 feet in length, and 2 to 3 inches in width, picturesquely marked with broad silver margins their whole length. As a single specimen, it forms a very orna- mental and diversified feature." It is, however, from the height to which it attains, best for back lines, and as such it has a distinct and tropical appearance, while it is quite hardy : it thrives in any good garden soil, but does best in peat or loam heavily manured with leaf -mould. It is propagated by division of the root in spring. Agapanthus umbellatus foliis variegatis — Foliage 18 in- ches, blooms 2^ feet. — Being a variegated form of the well-known A. umbellatus, it is all but hardy. Wben this plant becomes more plentiful and better known, it cannot fail to take a high position for beds. Its foliage is very lovely at all times, while it yields large umbels of blue flowers that last in bloom a long time. It is easily propagated by dividing the plants in spring, and potting them singly till well established, when it may be planted out early in May. It requires rich, rather moist soil . to grow it to perfection. Arabis lucida variegata (Golden Arabis) — 3 inches. — This is probably the most lovely dwarf golden-leaved hardy plant we have. It is exceedingly useful for front lines and edgings. It is very easily propagated by division either in spring or autumn. Lift and divide it about the end of October, and plant it out either where it is to remain or in nursery beds in light soil, and transplant it in March. To get it in its finest dress, it should be grown in rather heavy rich soU, and allowed to remain undisturbed for a few years. It must not be allowed to flower, otherwise it never makes such fine foliage. Arabis alpina variegata — A. mollis variegata — Foliage, 6 inches. — These two are similar to A. lucida variegata, only they are stronger growing, and the variegation is white instead of gold. Both are useful plants, either when white flowers are required in spring, or variegated dwarf foliage in summer and autumn. They all do well with the management recommended for A. lucida. Ageratum mexicanum (Imperial Dwarf) — Countess of BEET — BELLIS— CINEEAllIA. 57 Stair, Livdy Lavender, 8 inches — Her Majesty — Swanley Blue — Cupid — Cannel's Dwarf— Lady Jane, Strong Grower. — These are very easily managed, and a few pans of cuttings struck in a close frame in September are sufficient to yield a large stock for spriag propagation, wliicli is exactly the same as for Verbenas. Where there is no convenience for spring striking, the whole stock must be struck in autumn. They winter very well in boxes ; and in spring keep the plants well pinched in, as they are apt to become tall and slender. They flower best and longest in rich loamy soil. Dell's Beet — Darh Crimson, 1 foot — The foliage of this Beet, when quite true to name, is of a lustrous bronzy crimson, and in growth it is very regular and compact. I do not know of any dark-foliaged plant that is so generally effective, although some object to it simply because its roots are eatable. It thrives well in any ordinary garden soil. It should be sown the last week of April where it is to remain, and when 2 or 3 inches high thinned out to 10 inches between each plant. This variety does not run to seed, and it is much more effective than Perilla. Bellis perennis aueubeefolia — 6 inches. — On cool heavy soils, and in shady situations, this Daisy is well worth growing for summer edgings ; but in dry soils it looks shabby in hot weather. It is a desirable plant for amateurs, being of course hardy and easily managed. I have seen it flower well in autumn ; and, with its scarlet blooms and variegated foliage, it is an interesting little plant. Cineraria aeanthafolia — 1 to \\ foot. — This is a very orna- mental plant, as silvery as C. maritima, and is of a much more compact and better habit. In this respect it ranks between Centaurea ragusina and C. maritima. It has been found slow in striking from cuttings in spring, and after they are rooted, slow growing for some time ; but when once established, grows freely. It does with the same treatment as C. maritima, and is a very effective panel and vase plant. Cineraria maritima — Silvery-grey Foliage, 1 to l^foot. — The superiority of Centaurea ragusina has somewhat eclipsed this very useful silvery-f oliaged plant. The quickest way of getting up a stock of it is to purchase seed, and sow in pans, in light rich soil, the first week of February. Placed in a temperature of 65° to 70°, it vegetates in a few days. As soon as it forms 5 8 CAENATION — CEKASTIUM — CLEMATIS. two rough leaves, prick it off into boxes 2 inches apart, and place it in heat again till the young plants almost meet in the boxes, after which it grows freely in a cold pit or frame. In this way it makes fine strong plants by the middle of May, and transplants safely even without any ball. It does not, however, get its best coat of silvery down the first year. The best way to get the plant in all its beauty is to propagate from cuttings in spring, choosing the twiggy side-shoots. By sowing the seed at midsummer, and keeping them till the next year before planting out, they become very white before the end of the season. Carnation Duke of Wellington — Scarlet. — Very few Carna- tions are admissible as beds in positions where dense sheets of bloom are required for several months at a stretch. But such is the free-flowering habit of this variety, and its long season of blooming, that it keeps up a sheet of bloom from July till October; and it may be placed in any combination of beds in the flower-garden without fear of its becoming a blank. It is also excellent for cutting and bouquet purposes. For cultiva- tion, see our remarks on the culture of Carnations at another page. Cerastium tomentosum (Snow -in -Summer) — C. Bieber- steinii — Silvery-grey Foliage, 4 inches. — This well-known lovely little hoary plant is one of the most useful we possess for parterre- work, and is also one of the easiest managed. A good practice is to bed out a quantity of it in reserve beds at the end of October. It is taken without any preparation, simply tearing it from the old plants and laying it in thickly lik e Box. It roots through the winter, and is transplanted in spring to where it is to remain. It can also be planted out in March, in the open beds, in single cuttings without roots; and by keeping it watered, if the weather be dry, it begins to grow very freely, and in this way it makes exceedingly neat lines. The single cuttings are dibbled in, 3 inches apart. It should never be allowed to bloom if required to be in fine foH- age all summer and autumn. It succeeds in almost any sort of soil, and can be cut into any desired dimensions. Clematis Jackmanii, Violet-purple— FTincs of Wales, Pucy /■wrpZe— Lanuginosa nivea. Pure IF/Mfe— Lanuginosa Candida, French or Tinted TF/tite— Lady Bovil, Light Blue.— These are the best varieties for beds. Of course a Clematis bed is so far CAMPANULA — CHEIEANTIIUS. 59 a permanent one that they bloom for years in succession, and do not bear moving frequently ; so that in beds where a change is wished for yearly, they are not admissible. But they make such gorgeously effective beds that no garden should be without a few of them. The beds should be carefully prepared, and where the soil is either very sandy or clayey, it should be par- tially removed and replaced with loamy soil well enriched with manure, and should be at least 2 feet deep. In fact, a border that would grow Vines well is just the thing for bringing out the capabilities of Clematis. The young plants should be planted about 2|- feet apart each way, and if well tended they will cover the whole surface with bloom the first year, but of course not so densely as in after-years. They should be pruned in pretty closely every year after they have shed their leaves, and an annual top-dressing of rotten dung will keep them vigorous. In dry weather it is scarcely possible to over- water them if the drainage is good. They seem to like a damp climate, for iu wet localities in Scotland they bloom continuously from July till November. They can be slightly raised by placing some twiggy branches on the surface of the bed. Campanula carpatica (Carpathian Bell-Flower) — Blue, 1 foot. — A very useful edging hardy plant, which is easily pro- pagated either by division of the roots in spring, or by seeds, from which it comes perfectly true. The seed should be sown iu a temperature of 60° in February ; and when large enough to handle freely, prick it off iato boxes and keep it in heat for a few days, till it begins to grow freely ; then turn it iato cold frames, and plant out early in May in rich soil. This plant lasts a long time in bloom on heavy rich soils, but in hot situa- tions and on light soils it is apt to succumb before autumn. The seed-pods should be picked off as they form, and it should be heavily watered occasionally in dry weather. It is a very useful plant for those who have no glass, as it is perfectly hardy, and easily increased by division. About the latter part of March the roots should be lifted, and the ground trenched and manured, and the roots replanted, and watered if the weather be dry. Cheiranthus Ch.eirii (Coinm.on "Wallflower). — For its sweet- ness, if for no other reason, the Wallflower should find a place particularly in mixed borders. On account of its being so easily managed, it is very useful for amateurs with little con- venience for tender plants. 60 COLEUS — CHEYSANTHEMUM. The plants are as easily raised from seed as a bed of Cabbage, sown either in rows or in beds on light garden soil. For summer and autumn flowering, the best time to sow is in the beginning of July. When about two in ches high, prick them out into a nursery bed, in rows about 4 inches apart; here they may remain till the borders are dug in spring, when they should be lifted with balls, and planted where they are to bloom. By picking the seed-pods off' as they form, the season of blooming is prolonged. Select double varieties must be propagated by cuttings, and May and June are good times for putting them in. They strike freely under hand-glasses, in light sandy soil, in a shady situa- tion. When rooted, plant them out into beds as recommended for seedlings. They will grow and bloom in very barren soil ; but to have a long continuance of bloom, they must have rich dry soil. Coleus. — It is a great pity these beautiful-foKaged plants do not succeed except in dry warm situations in the south of England, and even there few of the many varieties succeed well. Old Verschaffeltii is still the hardiest and mostly used. In Scotland, generally, they soon lose their beauty, and as the dews of autumn come on rot away. They strike most freely in bottom-heat, and an old plant or two will give hundreds of cut- tings in heat in spring. They require a stove or intermediate temperature to keep them through the winter. Most of the now numerous varieties of Coleus are effective for a short time out of doors in warm seasons and places. Clirysantliemumftutescens (Marguerites), White, 1-| to 2 feet — C. grandiflora, W7iite, Ij to 2/eei— Etiole d'or. Yellow, l^foot. — These are three large, white, single daisy-flowering looking plants, with elegant foliage — in the case of the first-named, of a glaucous hue — that are generally kno'mi as the Parisian Daisy, from their having been so much used in the gardens and parks of Paris. They are very continuous flowering plants. From June tiU far on in October they yield their pure-wliite blooms in great profusion, and are excellent for centres of large beds or in combination with such plants as Purple Dahlias, Nepeta teucrifolia, tall Ageratums, &c. ; and for shrubbery margins and recesses they are excellent. Being all but hardy, they strike under the same treatment as Calceolarias, and can be wintered with them and Gazania in cold frames. They are deserving of much more notice in this country than has yet been bestowed on them. CHRYSANTHEMUM — DACTYLIS — FUCHSIAS — GNAPHALIUM. 6 1 Ch-rysantliemum Sensation — 2 to 3 feet, hut can he pinched and kept dwarf. — A beautiful variegated-leaved Chrysanthe- mum, and most useful for the centres of large beds or back lines, as also for intermediate positions when kept pinched. A few old plants potted up in autumn yield abundance of cut- tings in spring, and it strikes as freely as any common Chrys- anthemum. It can either be pricked off into boxes when rooted, or potted singly into small pots. Moderately rich soil brings out its variegation best. Daetylis glomerata variegata — 1 foot. — A variegated form of a native grass, and one of the most useful edging plants we possess. It is most easy of propagation by division of the plants either in autumn or spring. It requires a rather heavy soU ; but in this respect it is not very fastidious, and thrives in almost any soil, if rich. If the soil be poor, it is apt to get rusty-looking in dry autumns. It should not be allowed to flower. It bears clipping to keep it dwarfer. D. glomerata variegata elegantissima is said to be superior to this variety, but I have not yet seen it. Fuchsias. — Various Heights and Colours. — Many of these are most beautiful border plants, and when grown as pyramids, are splendid for centres in beds. For amateurs, the hardy varieties, such as Eiccartonia, are very useful, and stand the severest winters if their roots and collars are well protected with a little litter. Fuchsia Meteor, with its crimsony foliage, makes a most effective bed in some places. It is as easily managed as any of the ordinary Fuchsias, and strikes freely in autumn and spring in a little heat. The beds should be made rich with well-rotted manure. F. Carolina is an excellent variety for planting out in beds as dwarf standards, it being a vigorous grower and free bloomer. Fuchsia Vengeur, with white corolla and red sepals, makes a good bed, and so does F. Blanchette. They all delight in rich loamy soil when planted out. Golden Fleece, lately sent out, is said to be fine. The hardy F. Eiccartonia is very useful as a shrubbery plant ; and in the case of those who have not much glass, it may be used for the centres of large beds. Gnaphalium lanatum — 1 foot to 18 inches. — A silvery- foliaged plant suitable for edgings, and perfectly hardy. It is very easily propagated by division in spring, and is whitest and most compact on dry poor soils. It bears pegging down, and should never be allowed to bloom. 62 GAZANIA — HUMEA — HOLLYHOCKS. Gazania splendens — Orange, 4^ inches; and G-. splendens variegata. — Where these appear in their best dress, they are most effective plants, and most useful for various purposes. They are very easily propagated either in autumn or spring. In autumn they strike very freely, managed in all respects like yello"W Calceolarias, and they can be wintered and managed in the same way. They strike equally freely in heat in spring; and it is a good plan to propagate half the stock in autumn, and top them for cuttings in March, and prick them off and manage in other respects like Verbenas. Of the two sets of plants, those struck in spring are preferable. They are most accommodating plants, and amateurs can easily strike them in boxes in August, placed out of doors, where they get the morning and afternoon sun, from which it is not necessary to shade. When rooted, place them in a hot sunny place till housing time, when they can be wintered in cold frames or pits where they do not get more than a few degrees of frost. Some have planted them on poor soil with the view of making them flower more freely, but they do best in rich soil when well exposed to the sun. They do very well in winter with " spare- room " treatment. Humea elegans — Brown, 5 to 6 feet. — A half-hardy biennial, and very useful decorative plant, especially for back lines and centres to groups. The seed should be sown in !May, and being very small must just be covered, but no more, with finely- sifted sandy soU. It will vegetate freely in greenhouse tem- perature ; indeed, it comes up in the open air self-sown in light warm soils. Cover the seed-pan with a little moss or a pane of glass till the young plants appear ; then place in the Hght, to keep from drawing. When fit to handle, prick off into pans or boxes. Pot ofi' singly, when .3 inches high, into 4-inch pots, in which they will winter. In March shift into 7-inch pots, in which, by the middle of May, they make iine plants for planting out. It should never have more than greenhouse temperature. When planted out, the soU, if not very good, should be made up for it in pits, as for Dahlias, with half loam and rotten manure. In fine loamy soils, all that is necessary is to enrich and trench it. Hollyhocks. — Splendid autumnal plants for planting in shrubbery borders or back lines to one-sided long borders. Unfortunately they have recently been all but extinguished in this country by a parasitic disease ; and consequently, though IIELIOTROPIUM — lEESINE. 63 some imrserymcn give lists of them in their catalogiies, a healthy- stock is at present very difficult to procure, and I cannot, from recent experience, include a list of sorts. I have generally used them in one-sided borders, by planting either alternately with Humea elegans, or in single colours by themselves, planted 18 inches apart. The small shoots, which can be had from the bottom of these in July, cut into pieces with a bud to each like a Vine eye, strike freely under hand-glasses in light, rich, sandy soU. When well rooted, they should be potted singly in 3-inch pots, in equal parts loam, rotten dung, and a little sand. They soon establish themselves, and can be wintered in cold frames where not subjected to severe frost, and kept dry. Some of the more tender sorts are all the better of being in warmer quarters through the winter. Old roots of scarce sorts may be lifted and potted, and forced in heat, like a Dahlia, for cuttings, which strike freely in bottom-heat. The best time to plant out is about the end of April. The ground should be trenched and heavily manured. They thrive best — at least continue longest in bloom, and give the finest bloom — in heavy loamy soils. They should not be allowed to grow very tall if fine blooms are the object. As lines for general effect, we top them at 7 feet. Heliotropium Voltairiamim, Bluish purple, 1 foot — Albert Delaux, Violet rose, 1 to Ij foot — Bruant, Deep blue, 9 inches — peruvianum. Pale blue, 1 to Ji foot — Beauty of the Boudoir, Baric purple, 1 foot — President Garfield, Mauve purple, 1 foot — surpasse guascoi. Lilac — Jean Armour, La- vender, 1 foot. — These are great favourites, and from their deli- cate perfume should always have a place in the flower-gar- den. Cuttings inserted in August root freely in a very gentle heat, and may be wintered in pans or boxes. They should be potted ofi' singly in spring, and placed in heat till they fill their pots with roots. If planted out from the boxes, they suffer very much should the weather be dry at planting time. A few old pot plants wintered and forced for cuttings in spring, and struck the same way as Verbenas or Petunias, and potted off, make fine healthy plants. Indeed, spring-struck plants are preferable. All winter they like a little more than greenhouse temperature if wintered in cutting pots or boxes, especially Beauty of the Boudoir. They should not be planted out before the very end of May, and they do best in rich dry soil. Iresine Lindenii, 1 to Ij foot. — This is a very effective 64 KONIGA — LOBELIA — LINUM — MESEMBEYANTHEMUM, ETC. crimson-leaved plant, and bears pinching to any desired height. It strikes very freely, and keeps best through the -winter in a temperature of 55° to 60° in stove pots. But spring-struck cuttings are best, and can be propagated and managed like Verbenas. It likes a rich soil. Koniga variegata — Variegated A lyssuTn, QtoS inches. — An old favourite that holds its place well, and is most useful for ground- work and edgings as well as lines. A few store-pots propagated in autumn yield abundance of cuttings in heat in spring. In all respects it does with the same treatment as Verbenas. The soil should not be rich, or it will not be so prettily variegated. Iiobelia — Perennial Herbaceous section, various, 2 to 3 feet. — This is now a very interesting group of plants. Even old ful- gens and cardinalis were splendid border plants of peculiarly rich colours, well suited for centres of large beds and mixed borders. Queen Victoria, of recent introduction, is a very bril- liant variety. They are easily increased by division of the plants in spring. To grow them well they must have good rich soil. Iiinum grandiflorum — Brilliant Carmine, I foot. — One of the most beautiful and useful annuals for beds. It produces large rich carmine flowers in great profusion. Sow about the end of April where it is to bloom. The seed should be steeped in water twenty-four hours before it is sown. When about 2 inches high, thin it to about 6 inches between plants. By picking off the seed-vessels the blooming season is prolonged. Dry, moderately rich soil suits it best. Mesembryanthemum eordifolium variegatum — Cream colour, 3 inches. — This is a very pleasing, low-growing, mossy- looking, compact plant, very suitable for front lines, and for covering surfaces of beds for pin-cushion planting. It is very easily increased by cuttings at any time, and a few plants in heat during spring yield a large stock. ITemophila insignis.— Where a splendid mass of blue is the object from July to October, this is a most effective thing. It quite eclipses Lobelia speciosa seen at a distance, and in cold localities it is perhaps superior to the Lobelia, especially when the latter is from seed. To have a fine bed of it in August and September, sow in the first days of June, and ^^■hen well up thin out to 6 inches; when required earlier, it must be sown earlier. It does best in a dry soil. NIEREMBEEGIA — NEPETA — OXALIS. 65 Nierem'bergia gracilis — K". rivularia — N". VeitcMi — White, veined xoith Lilac, 8 inches. — These slender -growing, delicate- looking plants are very useful for edgings and small beds. They strike freely in heat in autumn and spring. When rooted, they should he potted singly, or two or three in a 4-inch pot, so that they can be planted out with a ball ; for if entirely shaken out, they take some time to recover the check. They flower most freely in hot sandy soils. In cold wet dis- tricts they do not flower well, but are suitable for the edges of vases and baskets. Ifepeta teiicrifolia — Bluish Lavender, 9 inches. — Now that the tide of taste has fairly set in in favour of hardy plants suitable for bedding, it is curious that the merits of this plant as a bedder have not been publicly recognised, so far as I have seen. I have grown it in quantity for this purpose for the last seven years, and every year it gains more favour here. The individual flowers are certainly poor enough ; but as a bedder it has everything to recommend it, so far as my experience has gone, on a moist soil — colour, habit, and duration, when pro- perly managed ; and, moreover, it is hardy as a willow. Its colour is beautiful and chaste in lines or masses, being a warm lavender or mauve colour, something like Viola cornuta, but with a shade of crimson in it. Its habit is dense and spreading, upright in the middle of the plant, and lying down on the soil all round like the variegated Alyssum. Its duration of flower- ing is from May to December without faU, and gathering in profusion of bloom and colour to the last. Its management is extremely easy, but it must not be left to itself, as herbaceous plants are generally. It is best raised from cuttings every year, the old plants being thrown away ; and with half the kind treatment given to Purple Eang Verbena, it will flower longer, and will rival or excel it in show throughout the season. I put in a batch of cuttings in fine soil in the open border about September, in close nursery lines, and every cutting strikes before winter. In March we transplant the young plants to where they are to remain; or if that is not practicable until bedding time, we give them more room in the border, when they make nice plants by the middle of May. Oxalis corniculata rubra — Chocolate Foliage, 4 inches. — A dwarf and almost hardy, chocolate-coloured, compact-growing plant, useful for various purposes, and very easily managed. It can either be raised from seed or by lifting a few plants in E 6 6 CENOTHBEA — PETUNIAS — PENTSTEMONS. autumn, and propagating and managing it like a Verbena. If raised from seed, a few plants in pots should be placed on a sheet of paper or cloth, as it bursts its seed-pods suddenly and scatters the seed about, and it is not easily got in the usual ■way of seed-gathering. Sow in March, in a hand-glass or in gentle heat, and prick off into boxes when large enough to handle. It is not easily lost when once it is introduced, as the seeds come up thickly the follo^ving year even on the walks, but too late to be effective in time ; so it is necessary to sow it under glass. Amateurs may keep a few roots of it anywhere free from frost, and in spring they can be divided into many plants. To plant a bed thinly with any silver- foliaged plant, such as Pelargoniums, and then cover the sur- face with this Oxalis, produces a very pleasing effect. CEnothera taraxifolia — 6 to 8 inches. — Large white flowers opening in the evening, when they look very beautiful. It is very effective in mixed borders and round the margins of shrubs, where its flowers contrast in a lovely manner with their dark foliage. It is easily propagated by cuttings in autumn and spring, the same as Verbenas or Heliotropes ; but the easiest way of getting stock is to sow seed in heat in February, and when it forms the rough leaves to pot singly in 3-incli pots, in which it makes fine plants by the middle of Jlay. Unless well established when planted out, it is late of flowering. Petunias — 1 foot — Although Petunias are not now so much used for beds, many of them are very useful, if not for beds, for planting against walls or singly in mixed borders. When in masses, in damp situations particularly, they are apt to damp off in patches in autumn. They flower best in moderately rich soil. For directions as to propagation and treatment, see Heliotropes. Countess of EUesmere, crimson rose. Miss Amy, crimson and white. Crimson Bedder, ruby crimson. Ruby, crimson, veined with violet. Crystal Palace Rose, rose. Spitfire, dark plum, suffused with Dr Hogg, purple. crimson; e.xtra good. Pentstemons — 1 to 2 feet. — Hj'bridisers have effected great improvement in these of late years, and they are very showj- border flowers. They are very easily increased by cuttings in August and September under hand-glasses, the same way as recommended for Verbenas, and can be wintered where tliey are struck, and transplanted in April. To increase scarce THLOX — PERILLA. 67 varieties, the best way is to pot off when rooted, and place them in heat in spring, when they strike very freely in bottom-heat. The side- shoots, without bloom spikes, are best for cuttings. They require a rich soil, and generally speaking are quite hardy. Adam Black, crimson, white throat, blotched "vvith crimson. Agnes Laing, dark rose, white thro.tt. A. Howden, rosy red, white throat. Andrew Kemp, ruby scarlet, red tliroat. Bridesmaid, French white. Beauty, light purple, pure white throat. Charles Smith, rosy crimson, white throat. Countess of Hopetoun, bright scarlet. Duke of Sutherland, scarlet, white throat. General McDonald, scarlet, white throat. George Sand, reddish purple. John M'Pherson, light blue, white throat. John Pearson, purplish mauve, white throat. Mauve Queen, mauve, white throat. Mrs C. Patrick, purple, white throat. Mrs Edwin Clark, crimson, white throat. Mrs Henricq, scarlet, white throat. Mrs James Laing, scarlet. Mrs Q. Gordon, crimson, white throat. Mrs Walter Scott, rose, white throat. Painted Lady, rose, pure white throat. Princess Louise, rosy red, white throat. R, Dean, crimson scarlet, shaded purple. Rev. H. Dombrain, rosy purple. Shirley Hibberd, salmon. Stanstead Surprise, purple, white throat. The Lady, French white-tinged rose. Thomas Kobb, purple, white throat. William Martin, striped crimson. William Paul, rosy crimson, striped with rose. Phlox Drummondii — Various, 8 inches to 1 foot. — Since such a variety of colour has been obtained in Pelargoniums, this pretty plant and its varieties have not been so much grown. They are nevertheless very pretty, and deserving of a place in the garden. The seed should be sown the first week in March, in seed pans or boxes, in light rich soil. Place it in a tem- perature of 65°, and keep it regularly moist. As soon as the young plants can be conveniently handled, prick them off into boxes 2 inches apart each way. Keep them in a temperature of 65° till they have begun to grow freely, then harden off, and stop them when they grow to about 3 inches high. The stopping causes them to make lateral growths. Do not plant out till the end of May, and let them have good rich soil, and they will keep up a long succession of bloom. They must have a place where they are well exposed to the sun. Perilla nankinensis — Bark Chocolate, I to 2 feet. — This annual derives its usefulness from the striking appearance of its dark, chocolate-coloured foliage. It is most effective in lines, and can be kept to any required height by being pinched. The seed should be sown in pans or boxes about the middle of February, in a temperature of 60°. When large enough to handle freely, it should be transplanted into boxes, as has been directed for various other things. If put in too thick, it draws, 68 PYEETHEUM — SAPONAEIA — SALVIA. and becomes weakly. Two inches each way is sufficiently thick. The soil should not be over-rich, as it has a tendency to grow very strong. It should be kept in heat till 4 to 6 inches high, and being tender, must be gradually hardened off. It makes fibry compact roots, and transplants well from the boxes. It should not be planted out till the end of Jlay, and in late places the beginning of June. Soil moderately rich. For those who have not command of artificial heat in spring, this is not a very suitable plant, as it requires heat to get it to a suitable size for planting in proper time ; still it vegetates freely in the open borders in summer, and it might be tried in a warm corner of a greenhouse, sowing it in Jlarch. Pjrrethrum Golden Feather and its varieties — 6 to 8 inches. — A dwarf, compact-growing, golden, fem-leaved-looking plant, most effective for dwarf lines and edgings, and in some localities far more effective than the best Golden Pelargoniums, being of a more dense and graceful growth. The best way to propagate it is from seed. Seedling plants grow far more freely than cuttings, make fine leaves, and have less disposition to run to seed. It can be sown in heat in early spring, and pricked off' and managed as directed for Lobelia speciosa ; makes fine plants for putting out in ^lnj ; or it can be sown in the end of August in the case of those who have not command of much heat in spring, and wintered in a cool house or pit. The best way to get seed of it in cold localities is to keep a few plants in pots, and allow them to bloom early in the season. It likes moisture and manure in liberal doses. Saponaria oalabrica, Pink — S. calabrica alba, W7i itc, 6 fo 9 inches. — This is a charming thing for little beds and edgings. Sow in gentle heat the beginning of April ; when it can be conveniently handled, prick it off into boxes in moderately rich soil. Keep it in heat till it begins to grow freely, then harden off by degrees. When planted, be careful to preserve some soil to the roots, and water well should the weather be dry. It thrives best in a sandy loam moderately enriched. Salvia patens— 5/»c, 1| to ■2. feet.— This, is perhaps the most lively and intense blue-flowering plant we have ; but in some soils, especially shallow sandy ones, it has the defect of dropping its flowers in dry weather, so that it is, under such circum- stances, rather defective and ragged-looking. On better soils it is a desirable plant for large beds and mixed borders. In SALVIA — SEDUM — SANTOLINA. 69 lines mixed with yellows or whites it looks exceedingly well. It can be raised from seed sown in heat early in February, or the tuberous roots can be lifted and wintered like Dahlias, and started in heat early in spring. It strikes freely from cuttings. It can also be preserved by covering the surface of the border with litter or spent bark after the tops are cut down, as referred to in the case of Dahlias, and hence is a useful plant for amateurs. Salvia fulgens and fulgens variegata — Scarlet, 3 feet. — These are very useful for back rows and mixed borders. They are easUy propagated by cuttings in August and September in a close cold frame, and in spring in the same way as Helio- tropes or Ageratums. When large plants are required, the old ones can be lifted and potted, or put close together in deep boxes. They should be cut down to within 6 inches of the soil when potted. Whether in store cuttings, pots, or as old plants, they are easily wintered in any place which is dry, and where frost can be excluded. They are not particular as to soil, and thrive in any common garden soil moderately enriched. Sedum spectabile (fabaria), Darh Rose, 15 inches — S. specta- bile variegata. — These are two of the most useful plants which our hardy herbaceous borders have supplied to the modern system of flower-gardening, though somewhat late of flowering. The variegated variety is most lovely from early summer till late autumn ; while the original form is a most effective plant, from the beauty of its large oval glaucous leaves, and for eight or ten weeks in autumn its large dense corymbs of dark rose blooms are very effective. Either for rows, masses, or dotting on the pin-cushion style among dwarfer plants, they are very effective. Being perfectly hardy, and as easily propagated as a Daisy by division, they are everybody's plants. They like rich soil and moisture ; and when required to bloom early, those who can do so have only to lift and pot a quantity, and forward them under glass, — a trouble they well repay. They are also excellent plants for late autumn, retarded in pots for the greenhouse. Santolina Cliamseeyparissus, 1 foot — S. incana, 6 inches to 1 foot. — Hardy plants, with silvery leaves, of neat and compact habit, and excellent for edgings in conjunction with dark- foliaged or flowering plants. They require liberal culture, and are easily propagated, in the same way as recommended for Verbenas, in autumn ; but September is early enough for them. 70 SENECIO — SCEOPHULAEIA — STACHYS — STELLAEIA, ETC. Senecio argenteus.— A very dwarf iiardy perennial, growing in neat tufts. It resembles Centaurea candidissima in minia- ture, but the plants are much more compact and dense, with silvery- white leaves, deeply lacerated; a very valuable addi- tion to bedding plants. Propagated by division. Serophularia nodosa variegata — Variegated Foliage, l\foot. —This is likewise a hardy herbaceous plant, and very useful for back Lines or edgings to comparatively tall-growing plants. It can be increased by cuttings in August, and by division in spring. To make it produce fine variegated large leaves, it requires rich soU and pinching to keep it from flowering. Staehys lanata — 6 inches. — A hardy sUvery-leaved plant, suitable for edgings and lines ; easily propagated in autumn or spring by division, and thrives in almost any sort of soU. Stellaria graminea aurea. — A hardy golden-leaved chick- weed which creeps and roots on the surface of the soil, and covering it with a thick carpet of gold. It is a useful plant for dwarf edgings, but is probably best adapted for carpeting the surface of a bed to be dotted with other plants. It increases as easily as Cerastium tomentosum, and in the same way. Stocks — Intermediate Varieties — White, Purple, and Scarlet, 1 to 1\ foot. — Some of these are most gorgeous plants for beds and lines, — such, for instance, as the East Lothian scarlet, purple, and white Latermediates ; and being so easily managed, they cannot be too strongly recommended. All that is necessary is to sow in fine rich soil under a hand-glass on a south border about the end of March. Sow thinly, and allow them to remain till large enough to plant out permanently. About the middle of May they are 2 or 3 inches high, and transplant weU. Throughout August, September, and October they fiower magnificently, and are often fine in November. If required to fiower earlier, sow in February in heat, and trans- plant into boxes or frames, and plant out in the end of April. The singles should be lifted in September, and either potted or planted by the side of a south wall, where, with slight pro- tection, they will winter and ripen their seed the follo-\ving summer. Ten -week Stocks are not worth growing when these Intermediate varieties can be had true. They require a rich soil. Tropseolums — 6 to 15 inches. — Some of these are very eflective, and Cooperii and Mrs EUis especially cover the ground with THYMUS — TUSSILAGO. 71 a dense sheet of scarlet blooms that -withstand wet weather exceedingly well. They can be raised from seed, but cannot be depended on for producing the same varieties. To prepare a store stock in autumn from which to propagate in spring, the cuttings should be put in towards the end of August. They root very freely in a gentle bottom-heat ; and by potting them in 8-inch pots filled with rich soU, all but 2 inches of the top, which should consist of equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and sand sifted fine, it is not necessary to prick them off. Forced in heat in spring, they yield cuttings very fast, which can be struck like Verbenas. It is best to pot them off when rooted, for if shaken out at planting time they do not succeed so well. Those who have not means for spring propagation must of course strike the required number in autumn ; but spring-struck plants do best. They all flower most freely in a poor sandy soil. Cooperii blooms freely under almost any circumstances. The following, except Canariense, Brilliant, Eclipse, and Both- welliana, which are strong climbers, are best for beds. I know of no plants that cover a wall with such a perfect sheet of orange scarlet as T. Bothwelliana, and Dumfries House Seed- ling. A dwarf yellow-leaved, named T. ochroleucum, with bright golden leaves, is a fine dwarf edging plant. Ball of Fire, scarlet. Bothwelliana. Brilliant, scarlet. Canariense. Cooperii, scarlet. Eclipse, scarlet. King of Scarlets, scarlet. King of Tom Thumbs, scarlet. Luteum improved, orange yellow, and crimson spots. Mrs Ellis. Eose Tom Thumb, rose. Vesuvius. Yellow dwarf. And others. Thymus citriodorus lutea — T. aureus lutea — Golden Varie- gated Foliage, 6 to 9 inches. — These are most useful edging plants. They do best to be struck from cuttings annually. Being hardy, they strike readily in September in hand-glasses or cold frames, and should be planted out in spring. In selecting cuttings, choose those best variegated, otherwise there is a tendency to revert to the normal green type. Tussilago farfara variegata — Variegated Foliage, 1 foot. — Perfectly hardy, and increases itself like a nettle or couch- grass, by running underground. Indeed, it is rather trouble- some in spreading, and not easily eradicated once it gets a footing. It is very ornamental, and can be used with good effect in shady positions where other plants will not thrive. 72 TAGETES — VEEONICA — VIOLA. It looks very well as an edging to a clump of ferns, or as a groundwork to plants with graceful foliage. Likes deep rich ground. Tagetes signata pumila — Orange Yellow with Brown Spots, 1 /oo«.— One of the most useful annuals, with most wonderful powers of long-sustained and profuse flowering. Sow in the end of March in gentle heat, and when 2 inches high prick off about 1^ inch each way in boxes. It vegetates in a warm greenhouse in April, and is very accommodating. It flowers best in a dry soil not over rich; and on hot soils, where Cal- ceolarias are prone to fail, it is an excellent substitute. It withstands drought and rain equally well. Veronica speciosa variegata, 1 fo 2 feet — "V. pumila varie- gata, 1 foot — V. Hendersonii, 16 inches. — Among the prettiest of our silver- variegated plants, and not nearly so much grown as they should be. July and August is the best time to pro- pagate in order to have nice stocky plants to plant out the following summer. Well-drained pots or pans may be filled with light sandy soil to within 3 inches of the top, then filled up with pure sand to receive the cuttings, which should be se- lected from the side -shoots, taking neither the strongest nor the weakest. They should be from 3 to 4 inches long. When inserted tolerably thick, as they are not subject to damp off, water well, and place in bottom-heat. When well rooted, pot off singly in 3-inch pots, or three or four in 5-inch pots. Keep close for a short time, and then harden off till fuUy exposed. They stand a few degrees of frost with impunity, and can be wintered in a cold pit where severe frost can be excluded. V. Candida has fine silvery foliage growing close to the ground, with a profusion of spikes of bluish-purple flowers, lasting in bloom about a month. Easily increased by division in spring, and perfectly hardy. Viola cornuta. — These lovely dwarf Violas have risen rapidly into favour within the last few years, and they deserve a place in all flower-gardens. Being perfectly hardy, they are among the very best things for those who have no convenience for raising tender plants. They are most easy to propagate, either by division of the roots or by cuttings. They strike freely in hand-glasses in light sandy soil in August and September; or when stock is scarce, they can be forced in spring and struck as directed for Verbenas. To have them in flower early in summer, autumn striking is the best ; and for autumn blooming, VIOLAS. 73 spring-raised plants are preferable. They like a moist rich soil, and do not keep up a continuous bloom in dry gravelly soils. Indeed, to grow them to perfection, they must be treated similarly to Pansies. They withstand any amount of rain, but are subject to die off in some soils, especially when not planted early. Some spurious varieties are in cultivation. Admiration, purple. i Mrs Bollock, white, Alpha, purple. Perpetual Yellow, best yellow. Coruuta Perfection, purple ; fine. Robin Hood, violet purple. Lady Diana, dark purple. i Sovereign, yellow. Lady Sophia, light reddish-purple. | Tory, bluish-purple ; fine. Lutea major, yellow. ' Pansy Section. — YelloTW Prince, Buttercuj? Yellow — Faotory Girl, Lavender — White Bedder, White — Golden Bedder, Golden Yellow — Startler, Light Blue — Cliveden, Blue. — Violas have long found a place in masses in our spring gar- dening, but it is only of late years that their capabilities and merits in summer and autumn flower-gardening have been recognised and tested. There is not a doubt but Violas, like most other plants, succeed best in certain localities, and under certain peculiarities of soil and climate. Still, from what we have observed for several years past, we are of opinion that in nine cases out of ten they are not properly cultivated, and that in many instances where their blooming period is cut short by drought and hot sun, it is because they are not treated in a manner that enables them to compete with adverse climatal conditions. To make Violas bloom continuously throughout the summer in the drier localities of the country, the ground should be as deeply worked and as effectively manured as a quarter that is intended to grow fine summer Cauliflower. Even in the wettest localities, rich deep soil is a condition under which they are most satisfactory and effective. And so striking and con- tinuous are they as plants for massing in summer, that we know of no other class that will yield the same solidity and profusion of colour and bloom. The way to develop their capabilities to perfection is very simple, and places them within the reach and enjoyment of all who can command hand-glasses or cold frames, and ordinary garden soil and manure. For summer and autumn blooming, the cuttings should not be put in too early. The character of the early cuttings is never such as produce free-growing and continuous-flowering plants. The very end of September or 74 VINCA MAJOR. early in October is the best time to propagate. Then is the time that, under the influence of cool moist nights, they produce plenty of young healthy shoots, near the necks or bottoms of the old plants. These small healthy growths that have never formed or produced a bloom-bud are the cuttings that root the most freely, winter with least care, and ever afterwards do the best, and bloom the freest and longest. It is undesii-able to put in long cuttings with a shank and a dangUng top. Two joints in the ground and two out of it are quite sufficient. They should be made ia a cool shady place, and put in the frames and watered and shaded without being once allowed to droop. Any ordinary light garden soil will root them, but a mixture of about equal portions of loam, leaf-mould, and river-sand is best; and 5 inches of this soil, resting on a rather firm bottom, to prevent their sending down their roots deeply, and from which they can be removed in spring with a ball and all their roots, is preferable to a great depth of rich open soil. Kept close, rather moist, and shaded from bright sun, they root with scarcely one per cent of misses, and get well established before winter sets in. Plenty of air after they root is indispensable; and a slight covering over the glass in very severe weather is about all the attention they require till planted in spring where they are to bloom. As can be gathered from what has already been said, the soil in which they are to bloom should be deep and rich ; and under such treatment few plants are so effective for the same length of time, and at the same expenditure of time and labour. The end of March or beginning of April is a good time to plant out, aocorduig to the season and the state of the weather. They should be lifted with all the soil possible adhering to their roots ; and if the weather be dry at planting time, give them a good soaking of water, after which they generally take care of themselves. Vinoa major variegata — Silver-variegated Foliage, 1 foot to 15 inches. — This is a very beautiful plant for permanent edgings, or even for masses. For lengthened effect it copes with the sUver-leaved Pelargoniums, and being hardy it is everybody's plant. For mixing with purple Violas it is excellent. It strikes freely under a hand-glass in September, every two joints making a cutting. It bears the knife well to keep it to any bounds, and the more it is cut the more variegated does it become. 75 CHAPTEE III. WINTERING TENDER PLANTS IN COLD FRAMES — MANAGEMENT BEFORE PLANTING OUT — PREPARATION OF BEDS AND SOIL. In many cases cold pits and frames are all that can be com- manded for wintering tender flower-garden plants. There is sometimes an outhouse, spare-room, or bow- window that can be used as an auxiliary to a pit or frame. With such convenience, indifferent as it may be considered, and really is, it is astonishing how much can be accomplished by judicious management and earnestness of purpose. In the construction of cold pits to be used for wintering such tilings as Pelargoniums, Verbenas, &c., the principal object to be secured is dryness, because damp is a far greater enemy to such plants, and one more difficult to combat, than frost. On this account, sinking below the ground-level should be avoided, unless the walls below ground be made iDerfectly water-tight by cement, and the bottom as thoroughly drained as possible. Indeed, it is a good plan either to pave or cement the bottom of the frame or pit, to prevent water rising by capillary attraction, in which case there must be holes for the escape of all moisture that may collect inside ; and the foundation of the inside should be of open rubble, with a drain to take the water away. Pits sunk a little into the ground, and constructed in this way, are warmer than when raised above the ground-level. But I would rather have all above the level, and construct the walls hollow, enclosing a stratum of air, which is the best non-conductor. One of the principal points necessary to success in wintering plants without the aid of fire-heat is that of preparing the plants in autumn early, and by the coolest system of propa- gation, as has already been recommended; but this is most especially applicable to the case of those who have no better 76 WINTEKING TENDER PLANTS. convenience than cold frames or pits to winter their plants in. Early propagation allows of the plants being exposed to the open air, and enables them to become thereby robust; and their growth is thus ripened or solidified, so that they are not so susceptible of injury from either damp or cold. They of course become well rooted, which is another requisite to success. When it becomes necessary to place the plants in the pits in order to be secure from autumn frosts, the lights should be drawn off by day when the weather is dry, not a drop of water should be allowed on the leaves, and they should be kept dry to the drooping - point. This brings on a state of maturity before winter, calculated to stand a damp, cold, co n fined atmo- sphere, and the absence of light, with the least possible injury. In placing the plants in the pit, do not overcrowd them. The pots should be washed clean ; and where the leaves of such as Pelargoniums are crowded, thin out some of the largest of them. Some dry loose material, such as hay or straw, should be in readiness, as winter approaches, for covering up with in ca^e of severe frost, and some of the same material should be packed round the sides of the pit. But for this avoid anything likely to heat and prematurely excite the jilants by a rise of tempera- ture. Wben thick coverings over the glass become necessary, the material should, if possible, be perfectly dry, and shaken on as loosely as possible ; as the more loosely it lies, the more air, the best non-conducting medium, it contains. If over the loose dry material some light covering, such as strong oUed calico, can be thrown, it will prevent cold winds from pene- trating, and keep the hay or straw dry. When it becomes necessary, from severe and continuous frost, to keep the glass covered up for a few weeks at a time, and when, perhaps, the thermometer inside the pit would indicate a few degrees of frost, great caution is necessary in uncovering and exposing the plants to light and air when the weather changes suddenly to a thaw. To uncover suddenly, under such circumstances, exposes them to such a sudden reaction as will prove far more destructive than a degree or two of frost. The covering should not be touched till the tempera- ture inside has risen ii few degrees above freezing, and then it should not be removed all at once, but gradually. Plants are living things, possessing all the susceptibilities of the most perfect and delicate organism, and are as subject to injury from sudden and extreme changes of light and heat as is the human MA^fAGEMENT BEFOEE PLANTING OUT. 77 frame. Many never think of tliis, or if tliey do, are apt to forget it; and so soon as it thaws, off goes the covering, and the plants are injuriously aflected even by the sudden iiood of light; and if they have been slightly frozen, they are rup- tured by a too sudden thaw, and mould and rottenness follow. Frost should not be allowed to creep in if possible; but if it does, it should be allowed to creep out, not suddenly expelled. The great points, therefore, in wintering plants where fire- heat cannot be applied are — first, to keep the plants dry and in as complete a state of rest as possible all the latter part of autumn and winter ; secondly, when it becomes necessary to cover up for a length of time from severe frost, the covering material should be dry and loose ; thirdly, when thaw takes place, do not uncover at once, but gradually, and not till the thaw is complete. All winter watering should be avoided beyond what is neces- sary to preserve life ; and it is much better to have plants at the drooping -point than the least over -wet. This is equally applicable to plants wintered in spare rooms, and, indeed, even in greenhouses where fire-heat can be used. It is astonishing how little water is sufiicient in winter for flower-garden plants, and especially Pelargoniums, which are often ruined by late propagation and over-watering in winter. Variegated Pelar- gonium cuttings in 8-inch pots on shelves often go without water for weeks at a time, and look splendid, although so dry that some would think they would be starved. I do not wish it to be inferred from these directions that structures of any description, unheated by artificial means, are recommended for wintering any of the plants enumerated, ex- cept those which are all but perfectly hardy. For, from long experience, I am convinced that, in the course of years, heated pits or low span -roofed houses prove cheaper than cold pits, when the expense of coverings, breakage of glass, and the loss of plants are considered; and therefore I would recommend all who have bedding plants to winter to provide themselves with a heating apparatus, which can now be done very cheaply. Management of Plants before being Planted Out. — That all flower-garden plants, whether propagated in autumn or spring, should be well hardened off, in order to their wellbeing after being planted, is a point of management which will no doubt be assented to by the merest tyro. I am, however, persuaded that starvation is often substituted for " hardening off." It is not a very uncommon thing to meet with Verbenas, Calceo- 78 MANAGEMENT BEFOEE PLANTING OUT. larias, and Pelargoniums, &o., in small pots exposed to the full blaze of the sun, and all the influence of cold drying winds in April and May, with the view of making them hardy. Under this treatment the plants become stunted and wiry, and when planted out in such a condition they stand still a long time before they commence to grow freely : the tissues of the plants are so dried up and contracted, that midsummer passes before they make a start into healthy growth. If, instead of exposing small pots to the full sun and wind for weeks, they are shaded from the sun during the hottest part of the day, or else turned out of their pots into beds of light rich soil, they present a yery different appearance by the middle or end of May. Where the accommodation for plants is not far removed from the flower-garden, and where that accommodation is limited, I would suggest that those plants which have been recommended to be potted off when rooted, should, as soon as they have filled their small pots with roots, be turned out of these and planted in frames or temporary pits, in soil composed of equal parts loam and leaf -mould with a little sand. There are great objections to matted balls in tiny pots; and when plants are potted into pots that are less than three inches wide and the same iii depth, the turning-out S5'stem that has been recommended above obviates the evil arising from smaU pots, and at the same time saves trouble in watering, and pro- duces far finer plants. Besides all this, it admits of the neces- sary amount of exposure for properly hardening off, ■n'ithout stinting and starving the plants. But even under much more favourable circumstances they should never be exposed to cold cutting winds, even though accompanied with bright sunshine, the effect of which is, as already indicated, to dry up and stunt the young plants. It is much better during such weather to keep the lights on, merely' giving air to prevent the opposite extreme. A good plan, in the case of those who have to turn plants from under the protection of glass during the cold ^vinds of spring, is to stretch some strong calico tightly about a foot above the plants, and let it remain so constantly. The plants get a fair share of light through such a covering, while they are protected from drying winds, and, if tightly stretched, the calico throws off rains also. Any additional night covering required can be applied over it. In the directions for propagating, it has been recommended to prick off the great majority of plants from the cutting and MANAGEMENT BEFORE PLANTING OUT. 79 seedling pots either into frames or boxes. This system calls for much less labour and room at first ; and in managing the plants up to the time of planting, much less labour is required to produce strong healthy growths. Where the aocomnjoda- tion is limited, and at a distance from the flower-garden, the movable boxes afford many advantages in spring management ; and when to be finally moved to the flower-garden, it can be done speedily, and with no injury to the plants. Throughout the month of April and early part of JMay, plants managed in this way usually make rapid progress, but an evil quite the opposite of stunting must be guarded against, — namely, that of the stock becoming di'a-\vn and weakly. To prevent this, they must be freely exposed during fine weather ; and when the lights are put on for the night, air should be left on. The soil should be kept in a medium condition of moisture ; just enough of water to keep the plants steadily growing and healthy should be given. The quick-growing things, such as Verbenas, Calceolarias, (fee, should be frequently looked over and stopped, — not allowed first to make long straggling growths, and then pinched severely back, but be regularly attended to, and have the mere points of the growths pinched ofi'. Every sign of green-fly must be checked by the usual method of fumigating with tobacco smoke ; for if once this insect is allowed to overrun the plants, they rarely ever thrive so well afterwards ; and before planting out, such plants as Calceolarias, Verbenas, (fee, that are subject to green-fly, should be fumigated, if there are the least signs of the fly to be seen. When it becomes necessary to move plants from the protec- tion of glass to temporary places, where all the protection they can receive is that of being covered with mats or canvas, they should be well established and hardened off previously. The position chosen for such temporary protection should not be shaded, although well sheltered. If placed in a position where they get no sun for weeks before being planted out, they be- come tender and weakly ; and when ultimately planted out in the full sun, they invariably get scorched, lose their leaves, and are sadly checked. This is more especially applicable to Pelargoniums of the variegated class, but to all it is very injurious. Flower Beds and Borders. — It is considered a settled point with experienced flower-gardeners, that the majority of the plants now used for long-continued masses of bloom are as 80 FLOWER BEDS AND BOEDEES— SOIL. exhausting to the soil, and require to have as good a foundation laid for their culture, as many or most of our vegetables ; and although, in treating of the propagation of the various plants recommended, reference has been made to the soil that suits them best, I think it a matter of very great importance that the principles of good cultivation, in so far as the preparation of the beds is concerned, should be specially noticed. ^^Tiat has been already stated in connection with individual plants bears more, and sufficiently as a general rule, on the application of manure, and the nature of the soil, than on its preparation. There are good reasons for fearing that the miserable appear- ance of many a villa and cottage flower-plot owes its origin to the idea that our present flower-garden plants do not require careful cultivation, such as would be expected to produce good crops of vegetables ; consequently I wish to give prominence to the fact, that in order to produce fine healthy plants, and a long - sustained array of bloom in the great majority of the plants used, it is indispensably necessary that the beds be well drained, deeply worked, and well manured. To tliis rule there are, of course, exceptions in the case of some plants, concerning which I have, in treating of them individually, indicated a contrary course of treatment, in regard to manur- ing especially. Few crops are more exhausting to soil than masses of Ver- benas, Heliotropes, Calceolarias, ifec. ; and the unsatisfactory appearance which these frequently present is as often referable to the want of liberal treatment as to anything else. Jethro TuU was not far from the truth when he propounded that deep draining and deep cultivation were all that was needed to pro- duce good crops ; certainly such conditions lie at the foundation of all good culture, and are nowhere more applicable than in the flower-garden. An accumulation of water about a bed of flowers is productive of evils that will thwart the eftbrts of good manage- ment in all other respects : it will keep down the temperature of the soil, prevent the natural action of the atmosphere, and lessen the chances of getting the soil pulverised and sweetened. Every flower-bed that is wet should therefore be well drained, as the first step in successful flower-gardening. As to deep cultivation, the beneflts derivable from it are so many that it would be difficult to enumerate them all. It gives a greater degree of openness to the soil, so that the roots can penetrate it more easily, and in dry seasons go down where the soil is more moist, and escape to a greater extent the evils FLOWER BEDS AND BORDERS — SOIL. 81 of drought. In wet seasons the superabundant water escapes more freely to the drains or subsoil. Many other benefits might be referred to, but these are sufficient to show that deep culti- vation is of much importance in flower beds and borders. I make it a rule to trench, every other year, all beds under my care. This is done in winter, and a rough surface left exposed to frosts ; and the beds are forked over and thoroughly pul- verised before planting-time. The extent to which manure is to be applied must be regulated by the nature of the soil, and dryness or wetness generally of the locality. Where the soil is naturally shallow, or light, or sandy, it is greatly improved by having a quantity of heavy loamy soil incorporated with it. The best manure for sandy soil is cow-dung which has been in heap for at least twelve months, and has lost its rankness ; the next best is old, well- rotted hotbed manure — that is, stable-dung well decayed ; but for heavy loamy soils, well-decayed leaf-mould is preferable. These manures should be applied when the beds are trenched in the course of the winter, and incorporated well with the staple. All rank or partially decomposed manure should be avoided ; and when well-decomposed manure cannot be had, spread it over the surface of the beds, and let it lie exposed for a month or six weeks to the air before digging or trenching it into the soil. Bone-meal is an excellent manure for the majority of flower-garden plants ; and a sprinkling sufficient to whiten the surface of the soil, and well mixed with it, is enough. This is a convenient and efiective manure in the case of owners of small gardens, who may have a difficulty in getting the other manures referred to. The flower-gardener who has a deep, rather light loamy soil that he can trench from 2 to 3 feet deep, and a dry subsoil, has a great advantage over others who have either a shallow poor soil, or one that is wet and clayey. It is scarcely credible to those who have not seen it, how gorgeously most plants grow and bloom in deep light loam, resting on a dry bottom — which should be the standard to be guided by. Owners of small gardens particularly have great disadvantages to contend with where their soil is naturally bad. Generally they cannot easily get their few flower-beds either entirely remade or ameliorated where the soil cannot be wholly replaced. Clay is more efiectually improved by burning the subsoil, and mixing it with the best of the surface soil, than by any other means. The method of doing this is detailed in a subsequent chapter. Boad-grit or light sandy soil added to it will also 82 FLOWER BEDS AND BOEDEKS— SOIL. improve it ; and ■when soil is sandy and poor, the subsoil should be removed, and heavier soil mixed with the best of the natural soil. It need scarcely be said that, when the soil is naturally unsuitable, the most effectual way of remedying the evil is to entirely remove it to the depth of 20 inches or 2 feet, and replace with two parts fresh loam and one part decomposed leaves or leaf-mould. Where the rainfall is great, and many things, particularly Pelargoniums, grow too much to leaf, the soil should be raised more above the ground-level, and of course manure should be more sparingly applied. 83 CHAPTER IV. OENAMBNTAL-FOLIAGED PLANTS. Plants suitable for planting as Single Specimens, and for planting in Groups in sheltered places in the Summer and Autumn Flower- Garden, and that can he mostly wintered in a Greenhouse. — The whole of these thrive well in a soil composed of equal parts turfy loam, with a fourth part peat, a fourth part leaf -mould, and about a sixth part of the whole of sand. Acacia lophantha. H Acanthus lusitanicus. H Acer negundo variegata. H Acuta latifolia maculata. Agave americana. V Agave americana variegata. Agave dasylirioid.es. V Agave medio-lutea. V Agave striata. Agnostis sinuata. Aloe glauca. Aralia Brownii. Aralia daetylifolia. Aralia heteromorplia. Aralia papyrifera. Aralia reticulata. Aralia Sieboldii. V Aralia Sieboldii variegata. Araucaria Cookii. Araucaria Cunningliamii, Araucaria exoelsa. Araucaria Rulei. X Areca Baueri. X Areca lutescens. X Areca rutra. X Areca sapida. H Artemisia annua. H Arundinaria falcata. H Arundo conspicua. H Arundo Donax. V Arundo Donax variegata. X Aspidistra lurida. X Aspidistra lurida variegata. X Baconia caudata. Banibusa ialcata. V H Bambusa Fortunei foliis niveis vittatis. Bambusa nigra. Bambusa viridis glaucescens. Beauoarnea glauca. Beaucarnea recurvata. Caladium esculentum. Canua Annei superba. Canna discolor. Canna discolor iloribunda. Canna erecta hybrid a. Canna expansa. Canna g^ant. Canna major. Canna metallioa. Canna musffifolia hybrida. Canna nigricans. Canna robnsta. Canna rubra perfecta. s Canna rubra superbissima, Canna rubricaulis. Canna Sellowii. Canna Warczewieczii. Canna zebrina coccinea. Centaurea argentea. 84 OKNAMENTAL-FOLIAGBD PLANTS. Centaurea gymnocarpa. Centaurea ragusina. Chamsepeuoe diacantha. Chamserops excelsa. Chamserops Fortune!. Chamaerops humilis. ChamEerops palmetto. Cineraria acanthafolia. 3 Cineraria platanifolia. Clethra arborea. V Clethra arborea variegata. Cordyline indivisa. Cordyline longifolia. V Coronilla glauoa variegata. Corypba australig. X Cycas revoluta. Dasylirion glaucnm. Datisca cannabina. Datura arborea. Doryanthes excelsa. Dracaena angustifolia. Dracaena anstralis. Dracffina Boerhavii. X Dracaena braziliensis. X Dracaena congesta. Dracaena draco. X Dracaena ferrea variegata. X Dracsena Guilfoylii. X Dracaena marginata. X Dracaena terminalis versicolor. X Dracajna rubra. Draotena Veitchii. Echeveria glauoa metallica. Echeveria metallica. Echeveria rotundifoUa. Eucalyptus globulus. V Eurya japonica latifolia variegata. V Farfugium grande. S Ferdinandia eminens. X Ficus Cooperii. X Ficus elastica. X Ficus microphylla. Fourcroya loiigaeva. X Gneonoma pumila. X Gneonoma Scottiana. Grevillea robusta. Griselinia macrophylla. Gunnera scabra. Gynerium argenteura. V H Iris fcetidissima variegata. X Latania borbonica. X Latania Jenkinsiana. X Monstera deliciosa. X Musa Cavendishii. X Musa ensete. s X Nicotiana wigandioides. Paulownia imperialis. v X Panicum plicatum. PhcenLx dactylifera. H Phonnium tenax. V Phormium tenax variegatum, vari- ous. Polymnia grandis. V X Khapis flabelliformi.=!. X Rhopala corcovadensis. X Rhopala Jonghei. X Rhopala magnifica. X Ricinus albidus magniflcus. Bicimis communis. Ricinus Gibsonii. X Ricinus lividus. X Ricinus Obernianii. X Ricinus sanguineus. Ricinus viridis. V Salvia argentea variegata. Sanseviera angolensis. X Sanseviera fulvo cincta. Seaforthia elegans. s Senecio Ghiesbreghtii. s Solanum macrophyllum. Solanum marginatiim. Solanum pyracanthum. Solanum robnstum. Solanum verbascifolium. X Thrinax parviilora. X Tupidanthus calyptratus. XJdhea bipinnatiflda. Verbesina gigantea. Vitis heterophylla. X Wigandia Caiaccasana. X Wigandia Wygenii. Yucca albo-spica. Yucca .iloifolia. V Yucca aloifolia variegata. H Yucca aloifolia cornuta (conciva). V Yucca fllamentosa variegata. Yucca fllifera. H Yucca ilaccida. H Yucca gloriosa. H Yucca gloriosa glauccscens. H Yucca recurva peudula. V Yucca quadricolor. Those marked H are hardy ; x, require the temperature of an intermediate house ; and those marked v have variegated foli- age ; s, those that are easily raised from seed. Of course the cultivation of such plants to any great extent is not practicable, except where there is a considerable amount of glass, and not at all in the case of amateurs who may have only one small OENAMENTAL-FOLIAGED PLANTS. 85 vinery or greenhouse, or even both. Yet many of them can be raised annually from seeds, or be propagated by cuttings in spring from a forced plant of each variety. Among those which are very effective, and that can be got up in this way, are Cannas and Eicinus. The former of these, if sown early in February, and pushed on in heat, make large plants in 6-inch pots before the beginning of June. The same applies to the Eicinus, which can also be sown in autumn, and, win- tered in a small state in a warm greenhouse, makes fine plants the following season. The roots of Cannas can be kept over the winter as easily as potatoes, and with as little trouble, by lifting and packing them in moderately dry soil in any shed or outhouse where frost cannot reach them. In spring they should be started and grown on, similar to a Dahlia. The Cannas are available in this way in the case of those who may not have the best nor the most ample resources. Then there are such eflective things as Nicotianas, Wigandia Carac- casana, Polymnia grandis, Ferdinandia eminens, Senecio Ghies- breghtii, Solanums, &c., which can either be raised from seeds annually, or propagated from an old plant or two where they can be afibrded room, and where a strong top and Ijottom heat can be commanded to propagate with in early spring. Managed in this way, and grown on in heat till the middle or end of May, they make stout plants, which in good rich soil and sheltered situations grow into large specimens the same season. These few kinds, in conjunction with hardy Yuccas and the other hardy plants included in the foregoing list, would help to give variety, and be an interesting feature in every garden where the climate can be termed moderate, and the shelter is sufficient to protect them from winds. As will appear from the directions given for arranging these plants in beds and borders, we are very partial to planting them as panel and centre plants in beds and long borders, because it is then that their character and beauty are best seen, and they give relief to heavy masses of colour. It must not, however, be supposed that, although nearly all the plants we have enumerated are as hardy as the general run of summer bedding plants, this order of gardening can be carried out with success anywhere, except where they are well sheltered from high winds. This of course applies to the quick-growing, soft- wooded, and large-leaved plants ; and we would warn those whose gardens are not favoured with sheltering boundaries, that all their attempts will be labour lost : for although, when fresh 86 OKNAMENTAL-FOLIAGED PLANTS. and healthy, such plants are very effective, they are most hideous when torn and tattered with the wind. In all exposed places, plants, such as Yuccas and Aloes, that are stiff and not affected by winds, and such things as Dracsena australis, D. cordyline, and D. draco, (fee, the leaves of which yield but do not tear or break, should be chosen. Ficus elastica we find to stand winds very well, its leathery foliage iitting it for rough weather. Where the flower-garden proper is too exposed to use the more easily injured plants, then sheltered and partially shaded nooks in recesses by the sides of pleasure-ground walks can be selected as spots suitable for groups or single specimens, as the positions suggest. These will give variety and interest to such resorts, and contrast well with the surrounding vegetation. In all cases it is necessary, in preparing such beds, to make certain of thorough drainage ; for though the quick-growing soft-wooded varieties require an abundant supply of water to cause them to expand their foliage well, they are impatient of stagnant moisture, which sours the soil and keeps it cold. A few barrowf uls of broken stones placed loosely in the bottoms of the beds, and blinded over with smaller ones to keep the soil from mixing with them, is a method that should be adopted in cold clayey soils. A good proportion of the soil in the beds should consist of half-decayed stable-manure and leaves, mixing in some turfy loam, or, where such cannot be had, ordinary gar- den soil, to give it stamina. The beds should be well elevated above the surrounding surface, finishing them in a convex shape, which presents the greatest surface of bed to the sun, and gives scope for grouping plants that are used for gracefulness of out- line in the most telling way. In the south of England, Cannas have been found to live over the winter in dry beds of soil, with a covering of dry litter over them to keep frost from them. Our own experience, and that of others in Scotland, justifies us in saying that it is shelter from cutting winds, an open rich soU, and a good supply of water, that are the chief conditions of success in the culture of such plants, and that bottom-heat is of less consequence if these conditions be secured. In tlie summer of 1867 we planted some Solanums, A dwarf variety ; very bright blue. Requires a moist position. Myosotis rupicola : A most beautiful species — perhaps the finest of the genus ; forms dwarf dense tufts, covered with its deep brilliant blue flowers. Re- quires a good supply of moisture. ■Nertera depressa : Forms dwarf dense tufts of green, and covers itself with coral berries, which last a long time. A very beautiful plant. Nierembergia rivularis : A very dwarf trailing plant, keeping up a long contin- uation of pretty white blossoms mingling with its foliage. Is best lifted and potted in winter. Phlox Nelsonii, white; Phlox frondosa, pink ; Phloxvema, rose; Phloxprocuni- 126 LIST OF ALPINE Tienfi, purple ; Phlox nivalis, wliite. These are very charming ihvarf-grow- ing and free-flov^^ering plants, are very effective, and grow well in rockwork. Phlox reptans : A very procumbent Phlox, producing large purplish-rose flowers early in May. Phlox subulata : Forms dense moss-like tufts with purplish-pink flowers. Potentilla nitida : A dwarf silvery-leaved plant, about 3 inches high, with light rose flowers. Primula ciliata : Purple — fine. Primula farinosa : Few plants are more lovely than this, forming tufts of silvery leaves with pinkish-crimson flowers, supported on white powdered stems. It likes plenty of moisture in summer, but requires thorough drainage, otherwise it will sufi^er in winter. Primula marginata : Large heads of dark lilac flowers. Primula minima: A very diminutive Primrose, bearing large rose-coloured flowers. Does best in a light peaty soil. Primula nivea : A charming white— easy to grow. Saponaria ocymoides : Pink — easUy grown, and does well in the ordinary herbaceous border, but is a useful rockwork plant for hanging over ledges. Saxifraga aretioides : A beautiful tufty, hairy Saxifrage, with pretty yellow flowers — veiy dwarf. Saxifraga CEesia ; Exceedingly dwarf and pretty. Saxifraga cristata : Large foliage, narrow, rigid, and edged with white. Saxifraga hypnoides, or any of its varieties or allies, such as hirta, aflinis, and decipiens, is excellent for furnishing a vivid green carpet in winter, Saxifraga juniperina : Very distinct, dense, spiny tufts, with yellow flowers. Saxifraga lingulata ; A charming rock-plant, like longifolia. Saxifraga longifolia : The king of all Saxifrages, forming immense rosette-like tufts of lineal-shaped leaves margined with white spots, with immense spikes of pure white flowers. An excellent plant for planting in the chink of a rock or wall, where its roots can strike down deeply ; and it grows luxuriantly in any common light garden soil. \ Saxifraga Mansfieldii : A free-flowering green-leaved kind — very good. Saxifraga oppositifolia, and varieties : Nothing can be prettier in rockwork. Saxifraga pyramidalis : A handsome variety, throwing up racemes of white flowers ; 1 to 1^ foot. Saxifraga rosularis and S. pectinata are both beautiful compact growers, resembling longifolia, but less, and more compact and dwarf. Among other dwarf Saxifrages worthy of a place among select rockwork plants are intacta, pectinata, tazetta, Mayallii, nervosa, gibraltarica. Sedum Ewersii ; Sedum elegans ; Sedum sempervivoides ; Sedum dasyphjdinm ; Sedum hispanicum ; Sedum rupestre ; Sedum lividum. Sempervivum arenarium ; Senipervivum aracbnoideum ; Sempervivum cali- fornicimi ; Sempervi\Tim globiferum ; Sempervivum hirsutum ; Semper- vivum montanum ; Sempervivum soboliferum ; Sempervivum tectorum. — These two genera are all beautiful rockwork plants, and of the easiest culture. Silene acaulis : This is sometimes very pretty when grown in pans for the cold- frame arrangement, and it also produces a very dwarf verdant cu-i^hion on rockwork. It rarely, however, flowers so freely in a cultivated state as it does on its native mountains, where it forms large masses of its rose- coloured flowers. Silene alpestris : A beautiful white-flowering dwarf plant. Not paitieular as to situation and soil, but should not be often disturbed. Excellent for rockwork. Then there are S. schafta, S. pennsylvanica, S. pumila. Soldiinella alpina ; Snldanella Clusii ; Soldanella montana ; Soldanella minima : A charming little group. They like a pure sandy loam, or peaty soil and moisture ; and they sometimes do well in the common border, when left undisturbed for a time. Thalictrum minus : Like the Maideu-hair Fern in general appearance ; small, white, insignilicant flowers in June. AND EOCK PLANTS. 127 Koet-Plants. — The following instructive remarks on cul- tivating this interesting order of plants are extracted from a list of Alpine plants published by Messrs Backhouse of York, than whom few are more fit to instruct on this subject; and any one who wants a more extensive collection than we have named, cannot do better than consult such a catalogue. And those who want to make Alpine plants a special study and pleasure, cannot do better than consult the last edition of Mr Kobinson's work on the Alpine garden. " The past two years have only confirmed our opinion that no form of horticulture surpasses, or indeed equals in interest, the cultivation of these Alpine gems. And even now, instead of revelling in the sight of masses such as nature exhibits in the wild regions where these plants are found, we are limited to little tufts or fragments, that, enchanting as they are, only convey to the mind a faint idea of what is yet in store for us. Think of a sheet of Silene acaulis, measured last year on one of the Westmore- land mountains, five feet across I and imagine the effect of such a mass when in full bloom ; for it not unfrequently happens that the pint, or rose-coloured, or crimson flowers of this plant are so densely clustered to- gether as to form a solid mass of colour. And why should not our gardens be thus adorned ? Time only is required ; for by far the larger proportion of Alpine plants are easy to cultivate, and even while small, abundantly repay the small amount of labour that is requisite. With something less than 25s. worth of rocks (costing here 9s. per ton) we have formed a rocky bank upon which many scores of choice Alpines thrive admirably ; for though contact with the rock is necessary for some, it is not needful for all. The improved drainage afforded by a bank 3 or 4 feet high (in the composition of which a large pro20ortion of rough sand should be generally used) quite sufBoes for the wants of many species ; as, though 'true mountaineers,' they inhabit the glades and plateaus of Alpine regions, where there is often a large area of rich vegetable soil without rock. " One thing must constantly be borne in mind, that it is an error to suppose that ' little plants ' require but very shallow soil. As narrow a crack or crevice as you please, only it must lead to an abundant supply for deeply -rooting, hungry fibres, that hate both 'starvation' and the irregu- larity of temperature and moisture inseparable from shallow soil. Gen- tiana verna is a little plant, its tuft of leaves rarely attaining the elevation of an inch ; but we are not exceeding the truth in saying that it both likes, and apparently requires for full development, eighteen inches depth at least of rich fibrous loam, interspersed thickly with blocks of limestone ! It is almost impossible to get 'to the bottom' of its far-rooting tiny threads in a native locality. And the same rule holds good with multi- tudes, and cannot be too closely attended to. Any kind of stone will do 128 ALPINE AND KOCK PLANTS. for rockwork, but sandstone (millstone - grit) ia the best. Where lin-e- stone ia preferable (aa with the Gentians) it ia generally specially stated in the catalogue. " A host of beauties are usually ready to expand their blossoms with the earliest days of spring, and frequently even among the snow. For a fort- night past (beginning with the last week in the old year), scores of pots of the lovely Anemone apennina have expanded their large blue flowera with us on a northern border, in spite of frost and snow. They always appear to bloom sooner in such a position than with a southern exposure — we presume by ' wintering ' earlier. " A very large proportion of the most ahowy species may be grown in an ordinary border in common soil ; and nearly the whole range of Alpine plants (which constitute one of the most interesting class of perennials) may also he grown well in pots where a garden ia devoid of the rochworJc, which best represents their natural ' element.' Whether cultivated in pots or on rockwork, it may be well here to state that, after long experience, and far too much of that kind of ' misfortune ' which usually attends ' ex- perimenting ' upon new plants, we find that, as a rule, it is an error to place in the shade in summer, for the sake of coolness, those species which inhabit very high mountain regions. These plants, as a class, hate the soft, humid, ' lifeless ' atmosphere which shady situations in low districts afford. Living naturally on lofty ridges, they are constantly exposed to high winds, and an atmosphere of crystalline clearness, through which the sun's rays dart down with a vehemence which often heats the rocka till you can scarcely bear to touch them. This brilliant sunshine in the daytime, alternating with excessively heavy dews or sharp frosts at night, are the suTTiTner conditions of a large number of the rarest and most beautiful species in their native abodes. And these, born near vast fields of per- petual snow, receive a rapid and permanent supply of moiature at the roots, which is checked only when wintry winds again bind everything in a mass of ice. " Very rapid and perfect drainage, combined with an equally rapid and continuous supply of water, are therefore essential to thoroughly healthy development. On rockwork this may be easily accomplished by allowing water to escape from a pipe at or near the highest point, in a very slender atream, or 'fast drop,' which will keep a large ' district' below both more humid and cooler than when similar eifects are aimed at by ordinary water- ing. Some species — such, for instance, as Eritrichium nanum, Androsaoe lanuginosa, Cerastium alpinum, and those plants generally which have silky or cottony foliage — evidently dislike having their leaves wet by artificial means, especially in winter ; aa, in a wild state, they are either buried during that season in dry snow, or subjected to frosts which de- stroy every particle of moisture. These must either be planted where an overhanging ledge protects from snow and rain, or be grown in pote, which can be placed under a glass frame admitting full ventilation in winter. Not that these plants are tender — they are nearly as ' liardy ' as the rocks THE HARDY FERNERY. 129 themselves ; but their winter Alpine atmosphere is dry, till the spring thaw sets in. " There are many Alpine plants which are found chiefly (and perhaps some exclusively) in the grit of decomposed rocks carried down by torrents, Ac. In this there is sometimes very little admixture of earth, though what little there is is usually of the richest kind. " Crushed millstone-grit, or coarse sandstone, forms an excellent sub- stitute, and should, if possible, be largely mingled with the soil of a ' rock- work.' For some Alpines we use equal parts of grit and earth — a mixture of rich loam and peat or leaf-mould. If not procurable, river-sand is the best substitute. Some species grow well in almost pure grit. There are, however, not a few, we have recently ascertained, which, though found in grit {'in glareosis alpmm ') in a wild state, thrive better under cultivation if placed in pure loam in a fissure of rock. The simple reason seems to be, that they are frozen dry, and leept dry for months, in their own land in winter ; while, when planted on rockwork, they are necessarily exposed to constant moisture during the winter months with us. The loam, from its compactness, does not receive or retain moisture so much as sandy or gritty soil, so that, though unnatural in one sense, it is more natural in another. Senecio incanus, S. carniolicus, Achilltea Clavennaj, and others of this order, illustrate it well. Their tendency to 'damp ofif ' in winter is notorious, and we believe may be largely rectified by this means. "Another most important subject is to suspend the abundant supply of moisture, essential for health in spring and summer (in imitation of the melting of Alpine snows), when the annual growth is made, so as to coax the plants ' to be quiet ' as far as possible, and prevent a second and en- feebling growth. This seems very important to the Alpine Gentians, and to the rare Eritrichium nanum. Natural rains will, as a rule, suffice after the end of August, and earlier if the weather be rainy. All artificial irrigation, except for bog plants, should then cease." The Hardy Fernery. — This is one of the most delightful departments of a pleasure-garden. To retire from the full glare of noon, and the flower-garden, with all its brilliant colours and somewhat stiff and formal trimness, into cool retirement, perhaps on the north side of a wall or rock, or under the shade of spreading trees, in which Ferns generally delight and luxuriate, makes a most refreshing change to both body and mind. The beautiful forms and varied shades of green which the Fern tribe present, are acknowledged as one of the most pleasing treats of the garden. To correspond both with the requirements of Ferns generally, and that situation which the mind associates with these denizens of shade and rock, the fernery should occupy some quiet and shady, and, if possible, romantic retreat. Where the ground presents no I 130 LIST OF HARDY FERNS. romantic features, they are so easily produced with the aid of hillocks and banks of soil, and tree roots and stumps, and rough stones — all of which may be worthless for aught else but to form a rugged, natural-looking site for the Fern — that scarcely any need want the pleasure derivable from a fernery. The following list comprises mostly British varieties, as being both most beautiful and hardy, as well as easily obtained. The few exotics enumerated are also very beautiful and hardy. Many more might be mentioned as being half-hardy — that is, requiring protection in winter and in spring when commencing to grow; but we have avoided enumerating any except the perfectly hardy. Those who wish to study them minutely cannot do better than get Mr Moore's work on Ferns. List of British Ferns and Varieties for Hardy Fernery. Deciduous. Allosorus crispus (Parsley Fern). Grows from 6 to 9 inches in a stony dry situation. Evergreen. Asplenium Trichomanes, . . . . . 6 to 9 inches. II II var. cristatnm, . 4 to 6 n II II var. Moulei, . . 4 to 6 „ These do not like either much shade or moisture ; they are perhaps better grown in pots. Deciduous. Athyrium Filix-fcemina (the Lady Fern). " II var. contortum, . . . 1 to li feet. 11 II var. ooronatum, . . 1 to l| II II var. crispum, . . . . 1 to ij II It T!ir. defissum multifldum, . l| II II var. Elworthii, . . . 2 to 2* 11 II var. Fieldiaa, . . . . li to 2 " " var. Frizelliae, . . . l| to 2 ■ I. 11 var. grandiceps, . . 6 to 9 in. II II var. Grantiae, . . . . 1 to 1| feet. II II var. plumosum, . 2 to 24 n II 11 var. multifldum, . . 2 to 3 „ II II var. Vernonise, . 1 to IJ „ 11 II var. Victoriae, . . . 2 to 2^ „ These all delight in a good loamy and leaf-mould soil, and should be in the dampest part of the fernery. They delight in a shady, calm atmosphere ■ ex- posed to either sun or much wind, they are easily spoiled. ' Enrgreen. Blechnum spicaut (Hard Fern), . . . . 6 to 12 in. II 11 var. oonoinnum, . 6 to 12 „" 11 11 var. crislatxmi, , . . 6 to 12 i, 11 1, var. projectiun .' 6 to 12 „ LIST OF HARDY FERNS. 131 Blechnuin spicant, var. heterophyllum, tr II var. imbricatum, 6 to 12 in. 6 to 12 „ A good loam and peat, and an exposed part of the fernery, will answer for tMs sort. Deciduous. Cystopteris fragilia (Bladder Fern) II II var. Dickieana, . n II var. montana, It It var. rhetica, These lilie shade, and a dry stony bottom ; they like to grow among stones. 6 to 9 in. 4 to 6 It 4 to 6 II 6 to 9 II Nearly Hvergreen. Lastrea Filis-mas (Male Fern), var. crispa, . . 6 to 12 in. var. Barnesii, . . . . 2 to 2^ feet. var. cristata, . . . . . 2 to 3 var. cristata angustata, . 1-^ to 2 var. furcans, . . 2 to 3 Var. Pindarii, . 2 to 2^ var. polydactyle, . . . . 2 to 3 These will grow in almost any soil, — good strong loam and peat or leaf mould suits well ; they stand more exposure than the Lady Fern. Lastrea iemula, Evergreen. Nearly Evergreen. Lastrea cristata, II var. uliginosa, dilatata, var. angustipinnula, II var. Chanterije, . tt var. cristata, ti var. lepidota, spinulosa, These like a good rich loam and leaf-mould ; they delight to grow among mossy shady banks. Deciduous. . 9 to 12 in lito2 Ij to 2 feet. „ . Ij to 2 2 to 3 li to 2 l" to 1 K . U to 2 Lastrea montana, 2 to 3 feet. It Thelypterls. These like a damp cool situation. Osmunda regalis (the Royal Fern), . . . . 3 to 4 feet. It II var. cristata, 2 to 3 n In peat and loam, and plenty of moisture when growing. Polypodium alpestre (Pseudathyrium alpestre), . . 2 to 3 feet. II It var. flexile, 1 to 1^ n Similar situation to the Lady Fern. Polypodium Dryopteris (Oak Fern), . . . . 6 to 9 in. II Phegopteris (Beech Fern), . . . 9 to 12 n It Robertianum (calcareum), . . . 9 to 12 „ These like a shaded cool situation, but not too damp. 132 LIST OF HAEDY FEENS. Evergreen. Polypodium vulgare, var. crenatum, . . 1 to IJ foot, var. cambricum, . . . 9 to 12 in- var, cristatum, . . 6 to 9 n var. omnilacerum , . . . 1 to li foot, var. pulclierrimiiiT), . . 9 to 12 in. var. semilacerum, . . . 1 to 1^ foot. These like a stiff clay soil mixed with stones, and a dry situation ; the roots delight to cling to any hard substance. Polystichum aculeatum, M var. proliferum, angulare, ,1 var. Baylise, rp var. cristatum, M var. imbricatum, M var. gracile, II var. grandidens, II var. graudiceps, I, var. lineare, 11 var. proliferum, Wollastonii, 2 to 24 feet. ? M 2 to 3 II IJ to 2 „ 2 to 2J „ 1 toll II 2 to 2| I, 1^ to 2 II 1 toli I, 2 to2| II 1| to 2 II 2 to 3 I, The Polystichums all like a good, rich, loamy soil, with plenty of shingly stones intermixed ; they like a moderate shade, but a dry bottom. Scolopendrium vulgare (Hart's Tongue), var. bimar- ginatum-cordatum, 6 to 9 in. II ,1 var. contractum, . 9 to 12 n 11 II var. crista-galli, . 12 to 18 n ,1 M var. crispnm, . 9 to 12 n II M var. digitatnm, . . 6 to 9 n II II var. fissum, . . 6 to 9 „ II II var. laceratum, . . 9 to 12 n II II var. ramosum majus, . 12 to 18 n II II var. subcomutum, . 6 to 9 n All the Scolopendriums like a good strong loam mixed with leaf-mould or peat ; they like plenty of water when growing, but should be in a dry part of the fernery. Besides the foregoing British Ferns, which are selected as not difficult to cultivate, and which are all exceedingly beautiful, there are a good many natives of other countries which prove perfectly hardy here. Adiantum pedatum. Adiantum venustum. Asplenium angustifolium. Athyrium purpureum. Athyrium strigillosum. Botrychium vtrginicum. Lastrea atrata. Lastrea deourrens. Lastrea Goldieana. Lastrea opaca. Lastrea tbelypteroides. Lomaria chilensis. Lomaria crenulata. Lomaria fluviatilis. Osmunda cinnamomea. Platylonia rotundifolia. Polypodium virginicum. Polypodium vulgare canariense. Polystichum Braunii. Polystichum setosum. Pteris aquilina americana. Pteris scaberula. Woodwardia angustifolia. Woodwardia areolata. Woodwardia orientalis. AQUATICS OK WATER-PLANTS. 133 All these are hardy, and thrive in ordinary light sandy loam, with a mixture of peat, sand, and well-decayed mould ; and if some freestone chips can be mixed in, they retain moisture, and the roots of Ferns delight to cling around them. Aquatics or Water-Plants. — There are few gardens in which there is not a piece of water, however small; but in many instances, instead of being either useful or ornamental, this is allowed to become a cesspool of malaria and rottenness. The great mistake committed in introducing small pieces of water into small gardens, is the formation of them in places where they are exposed to the full sun all day long. This is sure to produce scum and rottenness, unless the supply of fresh water be constant and in considerable quantity. If, instead of forming such ponds in fully exposed situations, they were situated in partial shade, and a supply of water, however little, constantly kept up from even a tap, they would always be fresh and beautiful ; and when planted with suitable plants, and stocked with some gold and silver fish, they form one of the most interesting features of a garden. To all who want to learn the full particulars of the aquarium, both indoors and out, we would strongly recommend the ' Book of the Aquarium,' by Mr Shirley Hibberd, editor of the ' Gar- dener's Mazagine,' who has the rare gift of interesting with his pen while he gives substantial instruction. List of Select Aquatic Plants. — In no section of ornamental plants do we see more worthless weeds included than in this. Looked at from a horticultural point of view, there are not a great many that are worth cultivating; and as this selection is intended for the smaller gardens, in which much extent of water is impracticable, it is intentionally limited, and embraces good flowering plants only. Aponogeton distachyon : One of the very sweetest of plants — may be seen abundant in a pond in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden. It is a great ornament to a fountain-basin — rather tender. Butomus umbellatus : The flowering rush — too well known to require remark ; pink. Calla palustris : Very pretty and distinct — in all respects a first-class mud or aquatic plant, and sends up its little miniature Lilies of the Nile all along the length of its trailing stems, and just high enough to be seen over the bright, shining, green foliage. Caltha palustris : This is common, but too showy to be omitted. There is a double variety, also very beautiful — excellent for the margins of water. Hottonia palustris — the Water Violet : Is exceedingly pretty when well managed. It thrives best on the surface of soft mud, which it greens over as if covered with moss. 134 LIST OF AQUATIC PLANTS. Lytlirum roseum supertum, Lythrnm salioaria, are most ehowy plants, and flourish amazingly when planted by the sides of water, and also as border plants. Where anything lilco effective bloom is sought by the sides of water, these should be planted. Menyanthes nymphaeoides — fringed Bog Bean : A somewhat rare British plant, 3 feet high, with yellow axillar flowers. Menyanthes trifoliata— the common Bog Bean : This is a much neglected but lovely native plant. Every piece of garden or park water ought to have some of their parts fringed with it. Niiphar advena : A bold and valuable water-plant. We need scarcely enumerate the beautiful British White Water-Lily — that is almost sure to be kno^vn and grown by all possessed of a garden ; and so probably is the yellow. Nuphar Intea : There are two smaller species worth a place — Nuphar pumlla, and the smaller form of the Nymph^a. Orontium aquaticum : A somewhat rare but exquisite aquatic of the Arum tribe, and more interesting than most of them that are hardy. The side of a pond or fountain-basin is best for it. It should be carefully attended to till well established. Pontederia cordata : A stout and perfectly hardy blue flowering aquatic. Potamogeton fliiitans : The floating pond-weed. Sagittaria latifolia : Among the very best water-plants. Wlien well grown it is more like a double white rocket than anything to which it can be com- pared, only that the blooms, though individually larger than the rocket, are not so closely set. It likes a mud bottom, and forms tubers the shape and size of pigeons' eggs. Sparganium ramosum, Sparganlum simplex — Burr Reeds; Tufted-looking plants, which bear Burr-like heads of fruit. Villarsia nymphaeoides : A fine yellow aquatic, which makes the surface of the water quite gay with flowers when the sun is out. In planting aquatics, a good plan is to tie a piece of turf round the roots, and drop them into the water, to the bottom of which they sink, and establish themselves in the mud deposited there. 136 CHAPTEE IX. THE HARDY FLOWER-GARDEN— Ooniinued. EAELY-FIiOWBEING CHEYSANTHEMUMS — DELPHIlSriUMS — DIANTHTJS BARBATUS — P^ONIAS — PHLOXES — PYKETHETIMS — TRITOMA. Chrysantlieinums. — There are now so many very effective varieties of early-flowering Clirysanthemums, that they well deserve and repay attention and careful culture as border- flowering plants. Being more nearly allied to hardy than to tender subjects, we class them among the former, because they are so hardy that in those parts of the kingdom more favoured with climate, they stand all winter in open borders and by walls and other fences, and even in the cold districts require nothing more than some temporary protection, or at most the shelter of a cold frame, and are therefore suited to the million. We strongly recommend those who have not grown them, to turn their attention to them. The management that suffices to produce an efiective display of these Chrysanthemums in beds and mixed borders is very simple. We grow them extensively in a very indifferent climate, and find them most useful in a variety of ways. In the autumn of 1885 we lifted a quantity of old stools, when past flowering about the end of October, of Precocity and Madame Desgrange — two of the vei-y best of them, and laid them in some light soil in a cold frame. In the end of April, when they had grown considerably, and had furnished us with quantities of cuttings, they were planted out after dividing the balls, and they produced a most abundant supply of flowers from the end of August to the beginning of November. We give this instance by way of showing how very easily they may be managed. 136 CHEYSANTHEMUMS. In the cold frame, they should get all the air possible when the weather is mild ; and in cold localities, a single mat or a little litter should be thrown over them in time of hard frost. They commence throwing up fresh growths in early spring, and when a few inches long the necessary number of cuttings can be taken and put into pans or boxes of Ught sandy soil and placed in a temperature a little warmer than that of a greenhouse, when they strike very quickly. They do equally well in a cold frame, — only in a slightly warmer place they can be grown into stronger plants more rapidly; and the stronger they are when planted out, as soon as aU danger of such frost as would injure them is over, the sooner they begin flowering, and the longer their season of usefulness. Those varieties that bloom sufficiently early not to require any particular treatment, we usually strike in boxes and let them remain without potting them tiU they are ready to plant out. They are topped once, to cause them to branch and be more dwarf. Such varieties as bloom later are potted off singly into 4 or 5 inch pots, according to their strength. These plant out of pots with balls entire and get no check, and consequently bloom earlier than if shaken out of pans and boxes. Even the potting of the later varieties may not be necessary in better climates, so that altogether a stock of plants can be got up with little trouble. We have been in the habit of using the young plants for beds and lines, and the old stools for mixed borders, and they are not lifted again. These early - blooming Chrysanthemums are most effective border-plants, and most serviceable for yielding quantities of cut flowers for two or three months in autumn. A number of plants can be planted in nursery beds, or even kept in pots ; and as herbaceous plants and bulbs go out of flower or die down, the Chrysanthemums can be lifted with balls and used for filling up the gaps, and in such positions they are very telling. A spadeful of rich soil should be placed round their roots when planted, and in all oases they are most satisfac- tory when planted in rich soil. The following are among the most useful varieties : — Early-Flowering Varieties suitable for Beds and mixed Borders. Those marked * are the earliest. Auastasio, magenta. Piberti, lemon yellow. Frederick Pele, crimson tipped with gold. La Petite Marie, pure white — very dwarf and bushy. La Valloe, pure white. Lyon, deep rosy purple. DELPHINIUMS. 137 Madam Chabackar, rosy purple. Madame Desgrangej "vvhite. Madame Piccol, rosy purple. MdUe. Jolivert, pure white. Mrs W. Piercy, red, changing to bronze brown. Nanum, blush. Precocite, bright yellow. Scarlet Gem, maroon red. St Mary, white. Wermig, primrose yellow. Zeuobe, bright orange-yellow. Later Flowering Varieties that should he planted against Walls. Bouquet Fait, soft rose. Daimio, lilac. Dr Macary, rosy pink. Golden Christine, golden buff. Golden Circle, yellow. King of Crimsons, rich crimson. Lord Alcester, primrose. Mons. Henri Jacotot, brownish Mrs Dixon, yellow. Mrs G. Rimdle, white. Phidias, rosy blush. Pink Christine, pink. Pink Venus, pink. Rosinante, crimson. Snowdrop, white. White Trevenna, white. Delphiniums. — Considering how, it may be said, surpassingly effective and imposing this class of hardy perennials is, it is matter for regret and wonder that they do not generally receive more particular attention than is bestowed upon them. They are deserving of, and suitable for, cultivation in every garden, large and small, from the cottager's to the peer's. The great variety of their heights, varying as they do from ] to 6 feet high — the equally great variety of their shades of colour, from almost scarlet to pure white, from the palest and most chaste lavender up through every conceivable shade of blue to deep indigo — and the very considerable variety of size and form of their individual blooms, some of which are single, semi-double, and perfectly double, and set on spikes ranging from 1 to 6 feet in length, — render them objects of great value as decorative border-plants ; and for cutting, either in immense spikes for some forms of decoration, or in smaller lateral twigs for bouquets and vases, they are most useful. The combinations in which they can be placed in borders are numerous. Nothing can be more beautiful than, say, a line of D. formosum with a line in front of it of some pale or white coloured Phlox ; or, planted alternately in a line, the combina- tion is very effective. I will never forget the magnificent effect I once saw in Mr Parker's nursery at Tooting, near London, produced by a line of Delphiniums and Acer Negundo varie- gatum planted thus in a long line. A very effective way of showing off the charming shades of blue in the Delphinium is to plant it alternately in a line with the old and far too much neglected Gardener's Garter. When so planted to back up a mixed border, the effect of the Delphiniums and any light foUaged or flowering plant is very charming. 138 DELPHINIUMS. Delphiniums are of course perfectly hardy, and can be cultivated in any ordinary garden soil. They are propagated from cuttings detached from the stools when 6 inches high _; or when the stools become large, they can be lifted and divided like any ordinary herbaceous plant. The ground for them should be rich, open, and deep. When young plants are planted out in spring, in soils where slugs abound, the buds or crowns are apt to be devoured by them in winter ; consequently it is, under such circumstances, well to lift them and lay them for the winter in some sandy soil in the reserve ground, where they can be more conveniently seen to. This is only necessary until they form large and vigorous stools. It is well to lift them every two or three years, and thorouglily work the ground, adding some leaf-mould or dung, and to replant them. This is best done just about the time the crowns begin to move in early spring. In favourable seasons, if they are not allowed to seed, they generally throw a second crop of flowers late in the season ; and the spikes being smaller and more twiggy, they are then most valuable for cutting, as well as very effective in the borders. There are now a great many varieties, and the followLng are among the most useful and effective : — Agamemnon, lavender blue, suffused with rose ; centre wliite and orange ; flowers very large. A splendid variety ; 3 feet. Alopecuroides, bronzy blue, 3 feet. Amabilis, azure blue, chauging to rosy Mac ; white and orange centre ; height 5 feet ; spike 18 inches, producing ireely lateral flower-spikes in very strong stems ; flowers single, very large. A very distinct and beautiful variety. Amad^e Hans, brilliant shining blue ; light centre ; flowers very double and well formed ; 3 feet. Argus, azure blue, striped and tipped with rose ; double ; densely placed on spikes ; 3 feet. Barlowii luulticolor, dark blue ; orange centre; flowers large and double ; stems very much branched ; 3 feet ; very fine. Bai-lowii perfection, very rich indigo-blue and crimson ; flowers double, very large, densely placed on large spikes ; 2 feet. Beatsonii, violet, with reddish centre ; flowers very double, produced in great profusion ; extra fine ; 2 feet. Belladonna, light blue ; very pleasing ; 2J feet. Bicolor, very bright blue, with white centre ; flower-spikes freely brandied ; 3J feet. Bicolor grandiflorum, light blue ; white centi-e ; 3^ feet ; extra fine. C. Glym, very bright blue ; rosy lilac aiul white centre ; extra tine ; 3J feet Celestial. — This is a grand variety, ultramarine blue, with velvety brown centime, height 5 feet, producing centre spikes 18 inches long, with numerous lateral spikes besides ; flowers large, and closely set ou spikes. Coronet, dark blue, with purple aud orange centre ; good habit ; extra fine ; 2 feet. Couronne Bleue, fine blue ; 3 feet. Ernest Eoux, rich violet ; a very efl'ective variety ; SJ feet. Figaro, light blue ; 3 feet. DIANTHUS. 139 Formosum, and its varieties belladonna and liliacium, are all most effective, and should be in every collection ; 2 to 3 feet. General Dlrich, cobalt blue ; 3 feet. Gloire de St Mande, brilliant blue ; petals suffused with crimson ; ilowers extra large, produced in long branching spikes ; 3 feet ; extra fine. Grandifiorum plenum, rich dark shuiing blue ; flowers double, free ; a con- tinuous bloomer. Hendersonii, brilliant blue ; centre white ; flowers large, borne in great pro- fusion for months in succession ; habit neat ; excellent variety for beds and lines ; 2 feet. Hermann Stenger, outer petals bright violet blue ; centre petals rosy pink, large, . very double ; a very distinct and beautiful variety ; 4 feet. Jules Bourgeoise, cobalt blue, suffused with pink ; orange and brown centre ; stems freely branched ; a fine double variety ; 3^ feet. Keteleeri, a very distinct and beautiful variety, lavender blue, tinted v/ith red- dish lilac ; double ; produced very freely on dense spikes ; 3^ feet. L. Neuvreau, clear violet ; white centre ; 3^ feet. La Belle Alliance, violet blue ; white and orange centre ; flowers very large ; extra fine ; 4 feet. Louis Figuier, rosy violet and blue ; large, semi-double, extra fine ; 3 feet. Madame E. Geny, reddish purple, tipped with blue ; centre blue and white ; very distinct and beautiful ; 4 feet. Madame Henry Jacotot, bright azure blue, suffused with delicate pink ; very distinct ; 4 feet. Magnificum, very brilliant blue ; white and orange centre ; a very abundant and continuous flowerer ; 4 feet. M. le Bihan, outer petals bright blue, inner ones rosy purple ; flower-spikes 18 inches long, with many lateral spikes besides ; flowers semi-double, set closely in the spikes like a Hyacinth ; excellent ; 3J feet. Nahamah, dark blue, suffused with bronzy crimson ; flowers large, produced in immense spikes ; extra fine ; 3J feet. Nancy, bronzy blue ; 4 feet. Nudicaule, light orange red ; compact habit ; 1^ foot. Prince of Wales, azure blue, with white centre ; double ; a very showy variety ; 4 feet. Pulcherrimirai, rich shining blue ; orange and white centre ; produced on spikes 18 inches long ; a splendid variety. Ranunculaefionvm, rosy lilac, broadly margined with cobalt blue, very double ; produced on long branching spikes ; 3J feet. Sylphe, dark lavender blue ; 3^ feet. Thiers, azure blue ; centre white ; very double, distinct and beautiful ; 2 feet. Dianthus barbatus (Sweet-William) — 1 foot. — At one time great attention was given to this lovely plant, and there are fine collections of the auricula - flowered and self - coloured varieties, and few plants are more charming. Although, in hot seasons particularly, they do not last sufficiently long in bloom to make them serviceable in the parterre (unless they be re- moved when done blooming, and something else put in their place), they are, nevertheless, beautiful mixed-border flowers. The fine single varieties are preferred by some on account of their beautiful marking, but some of the double are very charming. To raise them from seed, this should be carefully selected from the most choice varieties. The end of May or beginning of June is a good time to sow for the following 140 HEKBACEOUS P^ONIAS. season's blooming. The seed should be sown outdoors in a light rich bed of soil ; and when the young plants are 2 inches high, if they cannot be planted at once where they are to bloom, they should be pricked out into nursery beds, and transplanted in spring with good balls. Choice varieties must of course be propagated by cuttings, which is very readily done under hand- glasses, or even without such aid in a shady corner. _ They require a rather heavy rich soil to grow them to perfection. Herbaceous Pseonias. — An.y one who is not acquainted with the numerous magnificent varieties of Herbaceous Pseonias which now exist, cannot form anything like a full idea of the beauty which has been developed in this genus of hardy plants. Vulgarity is the idea which has long been associated with the effects of the Pseonia ; and as regards the old, roughly-formed, and glaring-coloured varieties, emitting odours anything but pleasant, the association may be correct, especially when such old varieties were misplaced in choice selections of plants. But there is a race of Paeonias now in cultivation which for perfec- tion of form and delicacy of colouring almost vie with the queen of flowers, and many of them are sweet-scented. They embrace all the delicacy of colouring which lies between the pure white, the pale pink, the delicate blush, the brilliant rosy purple, the crimson, and various other effective and pleasing colours. Such varieties as Alice de Julvecourt, which has guard-petals of the most delicate pink, with the centre petals of a beautiful blush white, slightly flaked with crimson purple. The flowers are as double and compact as the finest Rose, and the blooms of great size. Then there are such as L^onie, of a delicate peach, with magnificent double flowers symmetri- cal in form ; and varieties like Caroline Allain, with beautiful blush guard-petals, and the centre sulphur tipped with white. We were more astonished with a boxful of cut blooms of these and such as these, and with a bed of them that we saw in Mr Parker's nursery at Tooting, London, than with any hardy plants we have ever seen ; and, as they become known, we predict for them great popularity. For planting in shrubbery borders or singly or in groups in odd nooks on grass, nothing can be more effective. They bloom from the middle of June to the end of July, and grow well in any ordinary garden soil moderately enriched with manure, and are easily increased by division. The following thirty kinds may be relied upon as very effec- tive, and combine a great variety of delicate colouring : — TREE OE MOUTAN PiEONIAS. 141 Alice de Julvecourt. Belle Douaisieniie. Berthe d'Hour. Oaraea triumphans. Caroline Allam. Charles Binder. Comte de Neuteuil. Comte de Gomer. Etendan de France. Jeanne d'Arc. La Vestale. L^ouie. Madame Furtado. Madame Vilmorin. Magnificent. Marechal Vaillant. Marie Houillon. Marquise de Lory. Modeste Guerin. Monsieur de Rousselon. Paul Verdier. Plenissima. Kosamond. Sidonia. Triomplie de I'Exposi- tion. Triomplie de Paris. Versicolor. Victor Lemoine. Virginie. Washington. Shrubby Pseonias. — Pseonia Moutan and P. papaveracea are the old and well-known varieties of this magnificent plant. A number were brought home direct from China by Mr Fortune, and many more have been originated on the Continent. Un- fortunately, our nurserymen have not adopted the Chinese method of propagating them by grafting on the tubers of P. albiflora. They generally use stocks of P. Moutan, and the stock soon gets the better of the graft. Plants on their own roots, when procurable, are to be preferred. They succeed perfectly in good, hearty, substantial loam, but become stunted in poor, dry, sandy soil. In early places their long succulent shoots, which are put forth rapidly, require a slight protection from frosts in spring. They may be seen, however, in elevated localities, even as high as 400 feet above the level of the sea, passing the winter totally unprotected, and with complete impunity. Where they grow vigorously, they afford a wonder- ful blaze of colour in the end of May or the beginning of June. This fiush of beauty seldom lasts more than ten or fourteen days, and is easily tarnished by rain. Tree or Moutan Pceonias — Pceonia papaveracea, the single variety, and type of the species. Alba lilacina, large, double, white, violet base. Arethusa, rosy purple, large and full. Athlete, very large, double, delicate lilac. Bijou de Chusan, large, nearly double, light purple. Carolina, double, salmon, very clear. Charles Eogur, double, good shape, white. Comte de Flandres, very large and double, bright rose. Comte de Rambuteau, white, with rose centre. Confucius, double, dark rose, striking. Cornelia, very large, double, violet. D. Bowring, deep rose. De Bungay, delicate pink. Elizabeth, poppy red, very large and double. Fragrans maxima-plena, double, soft rose ; very fragrant. Hippolyte, double, beautiful white rose. Imperatrice Josephine, very large and double, lilac rose ; fine. Jewel of Clinsan, pure white. 142 PHLOXES. Jules Pirlot, rosy lilac. Lainbertinse, double, "vvliite, spotted violet. La Ville de St Denis, very large, double, clear rose. Leopolde, double, good shape ; fragrant. Louise Mouchelet, very large and double, clear rose ; fragrant. Madame Stuart Low, large, double, brilliant salmon red. Madame Stuart Low, cerise. Morris, rose, spotted "vvitb violet. Odorata Maria, double, good form, soft rose. Prince Troubetskoy, very large, double, dark lilac. Professor de Morren, white. Eanierii, very large, double, bright amaranth. Rienzi, very large and double, beautiful bright rose. Rosea Eliarsil, double, bright carnation. Rubra odorata plenissima, very large, double, lilac rose. Souvenir de Madame Knon, very large, double, white tinted carmine. Stewart Low, cerise. Triomphe de Malines, large, clear violet, base darker. Triomphe de Vandermaelen, very double, beautiful rosy violet. PMoxes — 2 to Z feet. — For mixed flower-borders and shrub- beries, this genus of bardy perennial plants is very ornamental and efiective. They are easily increased by division in the spring, and also by cuttings in August. They strike freely under a hand-glass in sandy soil, and every joint will root. In spring, transplant into deep, rather heavy, rich soil, if possible, as the flowers and panicles are much finer than when grown on light dry soils ; moreover, they last much longer in bloom. They should be renewed by lifting and dividing the roots, or by cuttings every second or tliird year ; and when the stools are large, the weaker stems should be thinned out to give the others room. Those marked e are early varieties. Admiration, red, crimson centre. Alexander Finlay, rose, crimson eye. E Angus Macleod, rosy purple. E Archibald M' Keith, rosy purple. E Argus, French white. Bryan Wynn, crimson. E Oharle-s Downie, rosy crimson. E Clouded Gem, rose and white. Coccinea, crimson. B Countess of Breadalbane, carmine. B Countess of Galloway, white. Countess of Rosslyn, white. Dr Leroy, rosy crimson. E Duchess of Athole, pure white. B Duchess of Sutherland, white. E Eclipse, lilac, crimson eye. Edouard Andy, carmine. E Empress, white, rose eye. Btoile de Neuilly, white, tinged with violet. James Allan, salmon scarlet. E James Ross, puce, crimson eye. J. M. Purves, peach. E John Baillie, rosy purple. John Buuton, deep crimson. B John Duke, white, rose eye. E Lady Abercromby, white, crimson eye. E Lady Napier, wliite. Lothair, light scarlet. Madame Austin, violet red. Madame Moisset, violet. E Magnum Bonum, rosy crimson. E Miss Robertson, pure Avhite. Miss R. Grieve, white, purple eye. Mons. Delamare, dazzling reil. JMons. Henrique, crimson. Mons. Hugh Low, purple. Mons. Linden, salmon. Mons. Rafarin, amaranth red. B Mrs C. Brodie, white, shaded rose. E Mrs Dalrymple, white. E Mrs Hunter, wliite, crimson eye. E Mrs James Watt, white, lilac eye. PYEETHRUMS. 143 E Mrs J. Hope, white, shaded lilac. E Mrs M'Lellan, white. Mrs Standring, pale rose. Mrs W. Millar, pale rose carmine, Premioes du Bonlieur, white, with cerise centre. B Princess Alexandra, white, crimson eye. Resplendent, rosy red. Robert Knox, salmon. Eoi de Roses, rosy salmon. E Rosy Circle, rosy lilac. E Rosy Sem, dark rose. Sheriff Ivory, rose, crimson eye. E The Deacon, rosy purple. The M. Newman, rosy crimson. E The Shah, rosy purple. Venus, white. Virglnale, pure white. Virgo Marie, white, purple eye. E William Grey, purple and rose. Pyrethrums — l^foot. — The hardiness of these, and the great improvement in size and colour which has been effected in them, make them most useful plants, especially to those who have but very limited accommodation for preserving tender plants. They are herbaceous plants, and are easily propagated by division in spring. In cold wet soils it is a good plan to pot up a few of them in autumn, and when they have grown a few inches in spring, to propagate by cuttings in gentle heat. A rich and rather heavy soil is most suitable for them. In poor, very dry soils, they are apt to flower very freely early in summer, and throw up fresh growth in the autumn, and in consequence get killed in winter. For autumn display, the best way is to cut them back in June : they then throw up fresh growths, and flower in autumn. List of Pyrethrums. Argentine, white, very large. Boule de Neige, white, double, fine. Candidum plenum, white, large, double, fine. Carminatum plenum, carmine, large and double, fine. Carneum plenum, blush, large and double, fine. Delicatum, white. Dr Livingstone, flesh. Elegantissimum, rose, light centre, distinct, double, fine. Emily Lemoine, crimson. Floribundum plenum, rosy pink, double, fine. Fulgens plenissimum, dark-red, double, fine. Galathie, rose, large, fine. Hermann Stenger, rose, bronze centre, double, fino. Imbricatum plenum, light rose, large, double, fine. Imperatrice Charlotte, blush, yellowish centre, double. Iturbide, bright carmine, fine. Kleinholtz, crimson, yellow centre, single, fine. La Belle Blonde, blush, with yellow centre. Lady Blanche, blush, very large, double, fine. Madame Billiard, blush white, double. Madame Munier, rosy blush, double. Ne plus ultra, white. Nemesis, dark red, double, extra fine. Nivum plenum, white, double, fine. Paul Journu, rose, light centre, double. 144 TBITOMA. Bey. J. Dix, deep blusli, double, ranunculus centre. Roseum album, pink and white centre, large, double. Roseum plenum, light rose, large double, line. Rnbrum plenum, red, double, fine. Solfaterre, white and yellow. Sulphureum, yellow. Virginale, white, yellow centre. Tritoma uvaria glaucescens, 3 to -ifeet — T. grandis, 4 to G feet, shaded Orange tipped with delicate Green. — This is one of the most gorgeous genus of hardy autumnal flowering plants. Few flowers can excel the stately large spikes of shaded orange tipped with delicate green. They are easUy increased by division either in spring or autumn. When divided ia autumn, they should be potted and wintered where severe frost does not reach them ; and planted out in April, they make finer plants the first season than when divided in spring and not potted. But they do very well lifted and divided in April, after severe frosts are not likely to occur. Some have afiirmed that T. uvaria can be had true from seed ; but I have raised hundreds from seed, and found them as variable nearly as a Pansy — not one coming exactly like the parent. They are gorgeous for back lines and mixed borders, and the two named give a constant succession of bloom from August till Christmas. T. grandis commences to bloom when T. uvaria ceases. There are several varieties of T. uvaria, but T. uvaria glaucescens is the best. They delight in rich, deep, weU-manured soil. Leaf-mould or rotten dung should be Hberally applied. To see them in greatest perfection, they must be allowed to grow into large stools, when their efiect is grand. 145 CHAPTEE X. THE HARDY FLOWER-GARDEN— Continued. HAEDY ANNUALS— BIENNIALS— ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND EVERLASTING PLOWDES. Annuals occupy a very subordinate position in gardens now, compared with former times. It cannot be denied that, com- pared with those plants which have displaced them, they are generally only second-rate, for the purpose of keeping up a long-continued display. Their deficiency in this respect is more fully realised on poor, hot, sandy soils, and on very heavy soils when they become hard and cracked during droughts. While this is a generally acknowledged fact, many annuals are in themselves strikingly beautiful, and in airy gracefulness far surpass many of our chief ornaments of the parterre, although they lack that solidity of habit and colouring which makes the Pelargonium and its associates so surpassingly effective for artistic decoration. To some extent, at least, annuals owe the second-rate position into which they have fallen to bad management and neglect, as well as to the greater effectiveness of their popular com- peers. With the same care and good culture bestowed on many of our annuals which have been devoted to their rivals, it is possible they would have held a more prominent position now. Such as Nemophila insignis, when sown on rich deep soil and thinned out to 8 or 9 inches, makes the finest blue bed of any plant we know, and blooms till November, when such things as Lobelias are dead and gone. Annuals have one great recommendation to those who cannot afford either to grow or purchase other bedding-plants, and that is, that as many seeds can be bought for a few shillings as will, in conjunction with a 146 HAEDY ANNUALS — SOIL. selection of hardy perennial plants, make the humblest garden gay for a few months of the year. But to attain this, they require to be much more carefully cultivated than is general at present. Far too often, all the cultivation that is bestowed upon them is to tickle the surface of a partially-shaded bed or border, and sow them in " rings," where, if they escape being devoured by slugs and snails, as soon as they come up they are left unthinned and unoared for; and, as a consequence, the result is a weak, sickly, and short-lived crop of bloom. It is with the conviction that those who are so circumstanced as to be mostly dependent on annuals for a gay bed or border, can, by proper management, enjoy that source of pleasure, that the following cultural directions and list of varieties are given, which, if carefully attended to, will produce a display of an- nuals such as is seldom met with in the generality of gardens nowadays. Soil. — The soil most suitable for the great majority of annuals is that which is known as a sandy loam, deeply worked, and moderately enriched with manure. Trenching or deep digging is of the first importance ; and M-here annuals are sown amongst herbaceous plants, as is very general, it is hopeless to expect them to do well if the soil is merely pointed over for a series of years. It will not only be best for the annuals, but for the permanent plants, to Hft them at intervals of a few years, and trench and manure the soil. The best time to do this is in early spring, when the hardy plants are commencing to grow. Wlien a shallow sandy soU has to be dealt with, if possible some heavy soil should be added to and mixed with it, and more manure applied than is necessary for better soils. A cold heavy soil should have the contrary treatment; old lime- rubbish, road-grit, or any light sharp soil added and mixed with it, instead of much manure, will help to improve it. It should be turned up -with a rough surface to the winter's frost; and in early spring hot-lime sprinkled over its surface, and pointed in, will prepare a finer and more healthy staple for small seeds, while it will also help to counteract the growth caused by adding much animal manure. In tliis case the her- baceous plants must be heeled in somewhere for a time. Time of Sowiiicf.— The time when the display of bloom is wanted must to some extent determine the time to sow. If required for autumn display, the end of May or beginning of June is sufficiently early. Indeed, early sowing under any circumstances is not to be recommended. If sown early, there HAKDY ANNUALS — SOWING. 147 are more chances against their coming up well, and slugs are much more likely to destroy them; for these pests are par- ticularly troublesome to annuals in a young state. As a general rule, the end of April or beginning of May is early enough to sow. Those sown in May bloom at a time when, after the turn of the day, they continue much longer in good condition than when they come earlier into flower. When an early summer bloom of annuals is an object, and a little artificial heat in a frame or pit is attainable, I would recommend that, instead of sowing in the open border, they be sown in small pots, and placed in a gentle heat — 60° — till they are an inch high. Then, after being well hardened off, they should be planted out with- out breaking the balls, say about the end of April, or even the middle of the month. Sowing. — In sowing a bed of annuals, the first thing to do is to level and make fine and even the surface of the soil. And suppose that a bed is to be sown with White Candytuft, to have a foot or more of a margin of Nemophila insignis, mark off the margin all round the bed, and sow in shallow drills the Candytuft in the centre, and then the margin of Nemophila, also in drills, following the outline of the bed as a guide in drawing them. The drill system is preferable, as a Dutch hoe can be made use of immediately the young plants show them- selves above ground, and they can be much more easily and regularly thinned. Frequent hoeing between the lines has a tendency to keep slugs in check, and, in a cultural point of view, is of considerable importance. Small seeds should just be covered with soil, and no more. Larger ones will do with a covering of an inch of soil. Thinning, &c. — Thinning annuals is an important point of their culture very little attended to, and the neglect of it does more to injure them than any other matter connected with them. They are sown thickly, and oftentimes allowed to run up into, flower without ever being thinned at all ; and the result is just the same as would occur in the case of a thickly- sown bed of cabbage allowed to stand, without thinning or transplanting, to come to perfection in the seed-bed. As soon as they can be easily handled, thinning should be performed. Of course the more upright-growing varieties, such as Lark- spurs, for instance, will not require so. much thinning as those of a more spreading or branching habit ; but they should all be sufficiently thinned to allow each plant to develop itself properly. This should not be done all at once, but at two 148 HARDY ANNUALS — THINNING. thinnings, at least where slugs are troublesome. The best way to deal with such enemies is to look over the beds, at night and morning especially, and catch and kill as many as can be found. Lettuce or cabbage leaves laid down among the rows will decoy them ; and if looked over every day in this way, they will be mastered. A first-rate preventive is a ring of sharp sand round the bed of annuals, or, indeed, young plants of any kind. No slug or snail will cross this. It is a good plan to sow a small patch of each sort in a sheltered but not shaded place, or in pots, about ten or fourteen days after the sowing has been made in beds and borders, so as to have them in reserve to transplant in case of failure. When it is an object with amateurs to have an early bloom, and when, at the same time, they have no frame or pit to sow in, some of the hardier sorts may be sown at the end of !March in small patches, and covered at night with flower-pots for some time after the seeds are up. In this way some early patches of bloom can be had in mixed beds. Besides this, as is fully described for spring gardening, many annuals such as ColHnsia, Erysimum, Eschscholtzia, Candytuft, Lupins, Nemophila, Sap- onaria, Silene, can be sown thinly in autumn in a rather poor dry soil in a sheltered border ; and, allowed to stand the winter in a small state, they transplant well in spring with little balls. During severe weather they can be slightly protected with evergreen boughs or mats. These are methods by which, from the poorest resources, an early show of annuals can be had if desired. There is another point connected with the culture of annuals which, if assiduously attended to, tends as much as any other to the prolongation of their season of bloom; and it is the simple one of removing all decaying blossoms, and so preventing seed-pods from being formed. When this is constantly seen to, the energies of the plants are directed towards the production of wood and flowers, and these are produced much finer, as well as more abundantly, than if the plants are allowed to produce seeds in the ordinary way. Another matter of considerable importance is to water in dry weather — not small drops fre- quently, but good soakings suflSciently often to prevent the ground from cracking or becoming very dry. This, in con- junction with the stirring of the surface of the soil, is of first-rate importance.* Staking. — Such varieties as require supporting, to prevent ' See Chapter on Watering. HARDY ANNUALS — SELECT LIST. 149 their falling over from the influence of rains and high vinds, should be attended to before they become full-grown. There cannot be anything more unsightly in an otherwise neat garden than the too common method of tying annuals, or indeed any plant, bundle-like to a single stake. Those in beds should have some twiggy branches, such as birch or beech twigs, put in among them. Spruce branches that have lost their leaves supply excellent spray for this purpose : sticking these neatly round the plants before they are fully grown, so that ultimately the supports are hid, is an excellent plan. And the same method answers equally well for those sown in patches, only in their case the twigs should be put quite close to the plants, so that, when they grow a little, the leaves and branches hide the supports. The foUowiag is a select list of hardy annuals. Those marked* are best where a small collection only can be grown; indeed, the two dozen or so marked afibrd material enough for a large and efiective display. Those marked a are most suitable for sowing in autumn to stand the winter. Select List of Hardy Annuals. Adonis flos, scarlet, 1 foot. a Agrostemma coeli-rosa fimbriata, rose, with white centrej J foot. * a AJyssum maritimum, white (sweet-scented), \ foot. a Bartonia aurea, bright yellow, IJ foot. Cacalia aurea, deep orange, 1 foot. * Cacalia coccinea, scarlet, 1 foot. a Calandrinia speciosa, rose, ^ foot. Calliopsis bicolor atrosangninea, blood red, 2 feet. a Calliopsis coronata, orange, 1 foot. * a Calliopsis Brummondii, yellow and red, 2 feot. CaUirrhoe pedata nana, crimson, 1 foot, a Campanula Loreii, dark blue, | foot. * a Candytuft, white, 1 foot. * a Candytuft, lilac, 1 foot. * a Candytuft, crimson, 1 foot. Candj'tuft Hybrid Spiral, pure white, and very fine. Centranthus macrosiphon, scarlet, 1 foot. Chrysanthemum segetum, golden yellow, IJ foot. * a Chi-ysanthemum tricolor Burridgeanum, and its varieties, IJ- foot. a Clarlda alba fimbriata, white, IJ foot. Clarkia elegans pleno, rose and white, variegated, IJ foot. Clarlda integripetala, crimson, 1 foot. Clarkia integripetala pleno. * a Clarkia pulcherrima, bright carmine, 1^ foot. * a Collinsia alba, white, 1 foot. a Collinsia grandiflora, blue and purple, 1 foot. * a Colhnsia tricolor, purple and white, 1 foot * a Collinsia verna, blue and white, 1 foot. CoUomla coccinea, scarlet, 1 foot. * Convolvulus minor, blue, 1 fo3t. 150 HALF-HAKDY ANNUALS. * Dianthus hybridus, crimson, 1 foot. * a Erysimum PeroiTskianum, orange, 1,^ foot. * a Eschscholtzia californica, yellow, 1 foot. Esohscholtzia earminea grandifiora, 1 foot. Eschscholtzia Mandarin, orange and scarlet, 1 foot. * Eucharidium grandiflorum, crimson, 1 foot. Gilia capitata, blue, 1^ foot. a Gilia rosea splendens, rose, 1 J foot. * a Gilia tricolor, lilac, white, and purple, 1 foot. Godetia Lindleyana, lilac and red, IJ foot. Godetia rosea alba, rose and white, | foot. Godetia rubicunda, crimson, 1^ foot. Hibiscus africanus major, yellow and purple, \\ foot. Isotoma axillaris, blue, 8 inches. Isotoma petraea, cream colour, 1 foot. a Kaulfussia amelloides, bright blue, \ foot. * Larkspurs of sorts, 1 foot. Leptosiphon aureus, golden, i foot. a Leptosiphon aureus, yellow, \ foot. a Lepttttiiplion densiflorus albus, white, 1 foot. a Limnanthea Douglasii, yellow and white, j foot. Linum grandiflorum rubrum, scarlet, \\ foot. Lupinus albus, white, | foot. Lupinus albo-coccineus, scarlet and white, \\ foot. Lupinus Cruickshankii. Lupinus Dunnettii superbus, purple and white, \\ foot. ' a Lupinus nanus, shaded blue, | foot. * Malope triflda grandifiora, crimson, \\ foot. Necterima selaginoides, white, 8 inches. Nemophila alba. * a Nemophila insignis, blue, J foot. Nemophila maculata, white, blotched with purple, J foot. a Nolana atriplicifolia, blue and white, \ foot. * CEnothera Drummondii nana, bright yellow, \ foot. Poppies, in variety, 1 to 3 feet. Reseda odorata (Mignonette), f foot, and its varieties. * Sanvltalia procumbens flore-pleno, yellow, \ foot, * a Saponaria calabrioa, bright pink f foot. * a Saponaria calabrica alba, white, J foot. Schizanthus Priestii, white and yeUow, \\ foot * a Silene pendula, rose and white, f foot. Silene pendula flore-pleno, pink, 9 inches. Statice Suworowii, bright rose, IJ foot Sunflower, in variety, 3 to 6 feet. * Sweet Peas, 5 feet. Tropseolum oanariense, yellow, 8 feet. Tropaaolum Empress of India, crimson, 1 foot. Troposolum Golden King, yellow, 1 foot. Tropffiolum Ruby King, ruby rose, 1 foot a Venus's Looking-glas.s, blue, lilac, and white, j foot. * a Virginian Stock, red and wliite, j foot. Half-Hardy Annuals. — Some of the most effective of this class of annuals have been already recommended and treated of ; but for the sake of those of my readers who may be able only to command the use of a frame or a few hand-glasses, and a slight hotbed in spring, it has been thought advisable to treat briefly of this class under a distinct heading. In very favoured HALF-HAEDY ANNUALS— SELECT LIST. 151 places as to soil and climate, nearly all the varieties that are enumerated may be sown in light rich soil in a south border about the middle of May. But generally the assistance of glass and a slight bottom-heat is necessary. A very slight hotbed of leaves or stable-manure, or, what is better, equal proportions of both, should be put up in March. The inside of the frame should have light moderately rich soil put over it to the depth of eight inches. In this the seeds should be sown, in rows three or four inches apart, kept regularly and moderate- ly moist ; and when two inches high, they should be hardened off by degrees, and planted out from the middle to the end of May, according to locality. In transplanting them, care should be taken to do as little injury to the roots as possible; and attention in the way of watering for a time after being put out, should the weather be dry, is of great importance. If shaded by a few evergreen boughs — especially those sorts which make tap-roots and few fibres — they will of course require less attention with water, and will get hold sooner. If time and space can be afforded to prick them out when a couple of inches high, they would make much more robust and better- rooted plants for final planting; but unless frames can be afforded for this, it is best left alone. Select List of Half-hardy Annuals. Alonsoa Warscewiczii, bright scarlet, 1 foot. Amaranthus caudatus, crimson^ 2 to 3 feet. Amaranthiis speciosus, crimson, 2.feet. Asters, various, from 6 inches to 2 feet. Braohycome iberidifolia, various colours, 1-| foot. Calceolaria scabiossefolia, yellow, 1 foot. Clintonia pulchella, purple and yellow, 6 inches. Clintonia pulchella alba, white, 6 inches. Godetia Duchess of Albany, white, 1 foot. Godetia Lady Albemarle, crimson, 1 foot. Marigold, African, orange, 2 feet. Marigold, African, lemon. Marigold, French, mixture, IJ foot. Marigold, French, dwarf miniature, orange, \ foot. Mesembryanthemum tricolor, red, ^ foot. Nemesia compacta insignis, blue, 9 inches. Oenothera Drummondii nana, yellow, 1 foot. Oenothera grandiflora, yellow, 2 feet. CEnothera Lamarckiana, yellow, 8 feet. Portulaoca, various, 6 inches. Ehodanthe Manglesii, bright rose, J foot. Salpiglossis, various, 1 foot. Schizanthus Grahamii, rose and yellow, 2 feet. Sedum ceeruleum, blue. Senecio Jacobea, various, 1^ foot. Sphenogyne speoiosa, yellow, 1 foot. 152 BIBNNALS — SOWING, SOIL, ETC. Stocks, Ten-week, various, 1 foot. Stocks, Intermediate, various, 1 to 1^ foot. Venidium calendulaceum, orange, ^ foot. Zinnia elegans, various, ^ to 1^ foot. Zinnia elegans flore-pleno, various, 1^ foot. Zinnia elegans tagetiflora flore-pleno, various, 1 J foot. Zinnia mexicana, yellow and orange, 1 foot. Biennials. — Biennials are a class of plants whicli do not flower the same year they are sown. The year after they are sown they are in perfection ; and those of them which live over the second year are of little or no use afterwards. Various dates have been recommended for sowing these ; but generally they are not sown sufliciently early in order to make fine plants by thi^ time they should be finally planted out. From June till August is the usual time for sowing ; but it is much better to sow about the middle of May — certainly not later than the third week of that month. Solving. — A border having an east aspect is preferable for sowing them. The ground should be free, and moderately rich. The drill system of sowing is less Ukely to produce drawn weakly plants than the broadcast. Should the weather be dry when they are sown, a good soaking of water through a fine rose should be given, and then some boughs or old mats, or anything that will shade, should be thrown over them till the seeds are breaking through the soil. Before the seedlings suffer from overcrowding, a rich well-exposed border should be man- ured and well pulverised, into which they are to be pricked off. This is the point in their culture which is perhaps of most imiJortanoe to attend to, and one which it is the object of early solving to allow plenty of opportunity for accomplishing. Plants that are allowed to remain in the seedling beds or lines till finally transplanted are never so fine as pricked-out ones. To get a fijae strong plant and satisfactory bloom, they should be stocky and strong, and lifted with good balls, — conditions which cannot be commanded by later sowing and only once transplanting. When pricked out, each plant should stand clear of its neighbour 6 inches ; and in this way they grow into low bushy plants that can be moved with balls of soU, and transplanted in autumn. They stand the winter much better from being nursed thus. All attempts at thro'wing up flower- stems must be checked by pinching them off as they appear. Soil and Transplantinc/. — To grow the majority of biennials well, they require a good holding loamy soil, and it should be prepared as already directed for amiuals. The end of Septem- OKNAMENTAL GKASSES AND EVEELASTINGS. 153 ber, or from that time till the middle of October, is the best time to plant out where they are to flower. We prefer autumn to spring planting, because autumn weather is generally much milder than that of early spring, and late spring moving is not to be recommended. If carefully lifted with balls, and planted in autumn, they get a good hold before the dead of winter ; but when autumn planting cannot be practised, they should be planted in spring not later than the end of March. But the chief points of culture lie in early sowing, transplanting into nursery beds, and planting in autumn with balls. Select List of Biennials. Hollyhocks. Honesty, purple, 2^ feet. Iberis linifolia, white, 1^ foot. CEnothera biennis, yellow, 3 feet. CEnotbera biennis alba, white, 2 feet. CEnothera fruticosa, yellow, 3 feet. CEnothera Lamarckiaua, yellow, 3 feet. Eockets, purple and white, 1 foot. Stocks, Brompton, Cape, Emperor, various, IJ foot. Sweet Scabiou.s, various, 1^ foot. Sweet- William, various, 1 to 1^ foot. Valerian, red and white, IJ foot. Wallflower, various, IJ foot. Anchusa italica, red and purple, 2 feet. Campanula calycanthema, various, 2 feet. Canterbury Bells, various, 2 feet. Catananche bicolor, f foot. Catananche cserulea, f foot. Dianthus chinensis, various, 1 foot. Dianthus chinensis Heddewigii, vari- ous, 1 foot. Erysimum arkansanum, yellow, IJ foot. French HoneysuoMe, scarlet and white, 2 feet. In preparing these lists, plants that have been previously treated of are not included, and those most suited for the widest range of localities are enumerated. Ornamental Grasses and Everlastings. — No garden should be without a collection of Ornamental Grasses. Either apart by themselves, or with gayer-coloured flowers in mixed beds and borders, it is scarcely possible to over-estimate their grace and elegance, and consequently their decorative qualities. And when they have fully developed their chaste and pleasing sprayey-looking tufts and panicles, a portion of them can be gathered, dried, and dyed into all colours, when, along with " everlastings," they are charming material for filling vases, and making dinner-table bouquets at the dead of the year, especially in the case of those who have no glass-houses from which to get a supply of flowers ; and even the most gigantic garden cannot neglect them in this way without a loss of beauty which is by no means inconsiderable. They present a great variety of form and outline : some are dwarf and neat ; some are singularly graceful ; others, again, are tall and stately, ranging 154 OENAMENTAL GEASSES from the lovely dwarf Achnodonton, scarcely 6 inches high, to the stately Pampas Grass. They are so easily cultivated, and cheaply purchased in small seed-packets, that they are within the reach of the humblest gardener. In light warm soils, the same treatment recommended for hardy annuals applies to ornamental grasses in the matters of sowing, thinning, &c. But on cold stiff soils it is advisable to treat the very small-seeded varieties especially, in the way recommended for half-hardy annuals; at least to sow them in a warm situation under hand- glasses, and then transplant them in the usual way. Select LiM' of Ornamental Grasses most suitable for Bouquets, Achnodonton BeUardii, ^ foot. Agrostis alba gigantea, 1^ foot. Agrostis argentea, 1^ foot. Agrostis elegans, 1 foot. Agrostis nebulosa, IJ foot. Agrostis verticillata, 1 foot. Anthoxantlium ovatum, J foot. Briza compacta, 1 foot. . Briza gracilis, 1 foot. Briza major, 1 foot. Bromus macrostachys, I^ foot. Ceratochloa pendula, 1 foot. C'hascolytrum erectuni, 2 feet. Chloris barbata, 1 foot. Chloris elegans, J foot. Chloris racUata, 1 foot. Cio.x obinensis, IJ foot. Diplachno fascicularis, 2 feet. Eleusine Foriiunei, f foot. Eleusine indica, 1 foot. Eragrostis amabilis, IJ foot. Eragrostis elegans, 1 foot. Eragrostis elongata, 1 foot. Festuca peotinella, ^ foot. Hordeum jubatum, IJ foot. Hordeum myuroideSjlJ foot. Lagurus ovatus, 1 foot. LasiagTostis argentea, | foot. Panicum colonum, IJ foot. Panicum Crus-Galli, IJ foot. Panicum proliferum, f foot. Pennisetum cencbroides, 1 foot. Pennisetnm distylum, 1 foot. Pennisetnm setosiun, 3 J foot. Piptatberum Tbomasii,"l foot. Setaria glauca, 2 feet. Stipa aristeUa, IJ foot. Stipa elegantissima, 2 feet. Stipa intricata, 2 feet. Trioholiena rosea, 1 foot. The great majority of the above flower the first year, and a good many of them contiaue for two or more years. Of taller sorts, for shrubbery borders, there are the Andropogons, Arundos, Chloropis, Erianthus, Gyneriums, Panicums, etc., which range from 3 to 8 feet, and most of which require a few years to give them strength to throw up their nolole flowers. Scarcely anything can be more ornamental than the graceful flower-spikes of such as the Gyneriums and Arundos for winter decoration in a dry state, and they can be dyed in various colours to give variety. For associating with these grasses in winter bouquets for vases and dinner-table decoration, very suitable and appropri- ate, and of equally easy culture, are the Everlasting Aimuals, collections of which are now obtainable for a few shillings. Some of them are quite hardy, others are classed among the hiilf-hardy section. The latter can be easily raised, just in the AND EVERLASTINGS. 155 same way as has been directed for half-hardy annuals ; while, instead of sowing those marked hardy in the open borders, I would recommend them to be sown under hand-glasses, as in the case of grasses. They are much more likely to vegetate freely, and are more easily guarded from slugs. Most of the Everlastings are strong-growing plants, and the error of plant- ing them in thick tufts should be avoided. The seeds should be sown rather thinly ; and iii transplanting them, they should be pricked out — the individual plants in patches, each plant a few inches separate from another. In transplanting them, it facilitates their progress very much to mix in a little rich light mould where they are to be planted. They should be kept well watered for a time, if the weather be dry. The following is a list of those most desirable. H indicates hardy, H H half-hardy : — List of Everlastings. H H Acroclmium album, white, 1 foot. H H Acroclinium roseum, rose, 1 foot. Acrocliniimi roseum flore-pleuo. H H Ammobium alatum, white, 2 feet. H Helichrysum apiculatum, yellow, 1^ foot. H Helichrysum brachyrhyuchum, yelfow, 1^ foot. H Helichrysum bracteatum, yellow, 2 feet. H Helichrysum bracteatum album, white, 2 feet. H Helichrysum capitatum, yellow, 1^ foot. H Helichrysum elegans, yellow, 1 foot. H Helichrysum monnirosum, various, 2 feet. H Helichrysum monstrosum nauum album, fl. pi., white, 2 feet. H Helichrysum monstrosum nauum atrococciueum, fi. pL, scarlet, 2 feet, H Helichrysum monstrosum nanum luteum, il. pi. , yellow, 2 feet. H Helichrysum monstrosum nanum roseum, fl. pi. , rose, 2 feet. H H Helipterum corymbiflorum, white, | foot. H H Helipterum Sandfordii, yellow, | foot. H H Morna elegans, lilac, 1 foot. H H Rhodanthe alba, white, IJ foot. H H Rhodanthe atrosanguinea, crimson, IJ foot. H H Rhodanthe Manglesii, rose and white, 1 foot. H H Waitzia aurea, yellow, IJ foot. H H Waitzia corymbosa, white and red, 1 foot. H Xeranthemum album, white, 2 feet. H Xeranthemum annum, purple, 2 feet. H Xeranthemum caryophylloides, fl. pi., various, 2 feet. H Xeranthemum luteum, yellow, 2 feet. H Xeranthemum superbissimum purpureum, purple, 2 feet. H Xeranthemum superbissimum album, white, 2 feet. 156 CHAPTER XL THE HARDY FLOWER-GARDEN— Continued. CAENATIONS, PICOTEBS, AU"D PINKS. The great beauty and delicious fragrance of these flowers have long made them favourites, and no garden, however humble, in which they can be cultivated, should be without them ; while none, however extensive, can leave them uncared for without the loss of a pleasure not easDy made up by any other tribe of plants. The too exclusive rage for mere gaudy and persistent flowering plants has caused them to be neglected ia gardens which can well afibrd to have them in greater numbers with decided advantage. Although some of the most choice and beautiful varieties are somewhat weakly in constitution, there are plenty amongst them of robust habit and easy culture, that can be grown in any common garden soil that is not very sandy and poor on the one hand, nor very wet and clayey on the other. Where such unfavourable soils naturally exist, it becomes neces- sary to prepare artificial beds for them, and few flowers so well repay careful preparation of soil and culture. The best soil for Carnations and Picotees is a rather heavy loam resting on a well-drained subsoU. Few plants are more impatient of stagnant water ; and where the ground is not naturally well draiued, drainage must be artificially provided. Although ordinary garden soil well manured with rotten man- ure from the farmyard, deeply trenched and frequently forked over during frosty and drying winds in early spring, grows Carnations very well, they are always benefited by a propor- tion of fresh maiden loam being mixed in with the natural soil ; and where circumstances admit of this, it should never be neglected. The loam should be mixed in with the manure and natural soil by beiag frequently turned over nearly the CARNATIONS, PICOTEES, AND PINKS. 157 full depth of the borders, leaving the surface rough or in ridges, so as to be mellowed by exposure. The end of March or beginning of April is a good time to plant them out where they are to bloom. A foot apart each way ia the beds is close enough to plant. Should any yellow or sickly-looking leaves exist about the necks of the young plants, remove them carefully, and plant sufficiently deep and firm to keep them steady. If the spriag months are dry, frequent watering will be greatly to their advantage ; and should it be wet, slugs must be looked after every morning, or they will soon make their ravages felt. As soon as they begin to " spindle " for bloom, stakes should be put to them, and the flower-stems loosely tied as they grow. When the buds are formed, and larger blooms are desired, they should be thinned to two or three on a stem. Should the summer be dry, give frequent waterings with weak manure- water ; and when the beauty and fragrance of the opening buds begin to well repay the care of culture, it will prolong the blooming season, and improve their colours, if an awning of thin canvas is thrown over them during the hottest hours of the day. Carnations and Picotees can be propagated by cuttings or pipings, the same as Pinks ; but the surest and best way is to pursue the ordinary way of layering, which can be successfully performed by any one. First prepare some soil, consisting of two-thirds loam, one- third well-decayed and finely-sifted man- ure or leaf -mould, and add to the whole a sixth of sand ; then remove a little of the surface soil from around each stool, cut away weakly shoots, and strip the leaves from a portion of the stem next the ground. With a sharp, thin-bladed knife, split up the cleared portion of the stem, beginning a little below one of the joints ; and turning the top of the layer upwards, so as to throw the heel or tongue downwards, fix it firmly in the fresh soil by a wooden peg, putting it into the ground below the spHt portion of the stem. When all the layers of each stool are layered, place as much of the prepared soil firmly round the stool and about the stems as will keep all steady and firmly in their places ; give a good watering through a rose, and keep them watered at least three times a- week should the season be dry. At the time of layering remove all stems from which the flowers have faded or been gathered. Should birds prove troublesome, as they frequently do in dry weather, by sfiraping about them and scattering the fresh moist soU, it is a good plan to place some flints or small stones round about 158 CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. the plants : this keeps the birds from removing the soil, and prevents evaporation. August is the best time to layer, in order to get well-rooted plants before winter, although it is frequently successfully performed in September. Carnations and Picotees. — By October the layers 'will be well rooted ; and although they are perfectly hardy, they are very subject to the attacks of slugs, and to become yellow and sickly in wet and changeable winters. It is therefore desirable to remove the young plants not later than the second week of October, and to plant them in moderately rich and rather light loamy soil in cold pits or pans, placing them sufficiently wide apart that every plant stands clear of another, and lifting each plant with a small fork, so as not to break the roots, and to preserve a ball of earth to them. In this their winter quarters expose them to all the air and as little rain or moisture as possible, by drawing the lights entirely oflF them when fine, and tilting them up back and front when wet. During severe frosts the lights may be shut closely down, which is all the protection they need. They require to be examined occasion- ally, and all decayed or yellow-spotted leaves removed, and the soil among them occasionally stirred, to keep all fresh and healthy about them. Many take the trouble of potting each plant separately in 4 or 5 inch pots, and plunging them in ashes or dry light soil, which is a very good way of wintering them, for they trans- plant in spring without any check ; although everything approaching to a severely matted ball is undesirable. They winter very well in frames as described without being potted, and give much less trouble, and with care transplant perfectly well, especially if a little chopped turfy loam be mixed in the top six inches of the soil when framed in October. Such is ordinary garden culture. "\^Tien fine show flowers are required, it is necessary to shade and carefully tie the pods to keep them from bursting ; but it is their culture in a popular way that is our object to inculcate. When planted among other hardy plants in mixed borders, they are much benefited by mixing in for each patch a few spadefuls of fresh loamy soil and manure. They are very subject to green-fly; and to keep it in check, a syringing of weak tobacco-water vigorously applied proves eSectual. LIST OF CAENATIONS AND PICOTEES. 159 Select List of Carnations. Scarlet Bir.arres. Admiral Curzon. Purple and Pink Bizarres. Purple Flakes. Brilliant. Ajax. Brutus. Palconbridge. Ascendant, Dreadnought. James Taylor. Beauty of Woodhouse Duke of Wellington. Joe Bagatook. Florence Nightingale. Duke of York. Princess Beatrice. James Douglas. George, Purity. Lady Peel. Lord Derby. Sarah Payne. Premier. Lord Lewishara. Tom Foster. Squire Meynell. Oliver Goldsmith. William Skirving. Squire Trow. Rembrandt. Crimson Biz^irres. Scarlet Flakes. Pose Flalces, Albion's Pride. Black Diamond. Aunihilator. Jessica. Dr Masters. Clipper. John Ker. Eccentric Jack, Figaro. Lady Gardiner. Jenny Lind. John Bailey. Lovely Ann. Monarch. John Ball. Mrs Brown. Mrs Maclaren. Justice Shallow. Newton. Premier. Matador. Poor Tom. Queen Victoria, Meteor. Rob Roy. Rifleman, Mrs Porter. Rose of Stapleford. Saturn, Superb, Select List of Picotees. Tim Bobbin. Ked-edged. Her Majesty. Victoria. Alda Mary. Clara. Isabella. Lord Elcho. Waverley. Emily. Henry. Miss Turner. Princess of "Wales. Mrs Norman. Peeress. Pose and Scarlet edged. Ethel. Yellow Ground. Alice Waite. Edith, Flavins, Purple-edged. Lady. Louisa. Ne plus ultra. Princess Beatrice. Admiration. Purity. Sultana. Amy Robsart. Eegina. Wizard. Many of the Clove Carnations are exceedingly effective and sweet, such as Prince of Wales, Gloire de Nancy, and the old Crimson, Eed, Scarlet, and White Cloves. Pinks. — The cultivation of these lovely flowers is very similar to that of the Carnation. Like the Carnation, they thrive best in a loamy soil ; and to grow them to the highest perfection, it is necessary to supply them with fresh turfy loam and rotten cow-dung in preference to any other manure. In making up artificial beds of these, the proportion should be three parts loam and rather more than one part manure, to the depth of 15 or 18 inches. But for popular culture, what has 160 PINKS. been said of Carnations is also applicable to Pinks, which are equally well worthy of cultivation, because as early summer flowers few are so beautiful, few so sweet, and few better adapted for bouquets. To secure large, well-developed flowers, only one or two stems should be allowed to each plant, and the buds should be reduced to two or three. The directions given as to staking and tying Carnations are applicable to Pinks. Propagation is generally effected by pipings or cuttings taken from the bottom growths, cutting them ofi' below the third or fourth joint when the plants are in bloom, generally early in June, and taking hold of the top of the cuttings, and pulling them out of the socket at the lowest or third joint, — an operation termed "piping." The growths thus prepared are put into light sandy soil, sufficiently thin not to crowd the pipings. After watering them, and after the foliage dries, the hand-glass top is put on and kept close till they root, when air should be gradually increased till they can be exposed alto- gether. Till rooted, give water siifficient to keep them mode- rately moist. This is the usual and quickest way of increasing Pinks ; but I would strongly recommend their being layered, and managed the same as Carnations tiU well rooted. They make much more robust and stocky plants when layered in the open air, than when taken ofll' and put under hand-glasses. This method takes longer time and more work, but results warrant its adoption. When well rooted, lift them with balls, and plant them where required to bloom, not closer than 9 inches apart each way; and if the weather be dry, keep them watered regularly till well established. Select List of Pinks. Anne Boleyn, fine for forcing and cut flowers. Bertram, red, broad lacing. Clara, red. Clifton, white. Derby Day, deep pink, laced red. Devioe, purple. Dr M'Lean, rosy purple lace. Emerald, red lace. Emily, dark. Excellent, red lace. Genevieve, rosy purple. George White, purple. Godfrey, reddish purple, flue. HaiTy Hooper, reddish purple. John Ball, dark plum. Lady Craven, red. Lady Craven, red, extra. Lord Herbert, rosy red. Lord Lyons, deep rosy purple. M.iry Ann, reddish purple. Mrs Sinkins, pure white, fine. Picturata. Prince Frederick William, purple. Scarlet Gem. Shirley Hibberd, rosy purple. Eosy Gem. Victory, purple. 161 CHAPTER XII. TEE HARDY FLOWER-GARDEN— Continued. EOSES. There are few who may be termed fortunate enough to be the possessor of a garden, however humble, who do not desire, and who should not be encouraged, to have a bed or beds of Roses, as their space may allow. This "Queen of Flowers" has a beauty and fragrance which are scarcely attained in any other family of plants. But notwithstanding these charming features, and although, taken as an individual flower, there are none other in the whole fraternity of bedding plants to excel or even to rival the Rose, we do not recommend their extensive introduction to the formal parterre or group of beds where solid colouring, to be effective alike when closely inspected or viewed from a distance, is the object in view. This is not said disparagingly of the lovely Rose; and possibly, even for this purpose, with extra good management, it might, in its full flush of bloom, for a short time play a most prominent part. In many instances garden establishments of any note can and do afford to this grand flower a garden to itself; and probably there is not another family of plants that so much deserves to be so specially set apart and treated. Like most other flowering plants, Roses are most effective in groups or beds of distinct colours. To grow a large collec- tion or variety in this way demands a good amount of space, unless the groups be very small; and this cannot in many cases be adopted. But a mixed border, or a bed or two, is within the reach of most owners of gardens; and when the mixed system becomes a necessity for want of space, it must surely be termed a charming necessity, and, attached to a garden, must form a pleasing variety. In accordance with L 162 EOSES — PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. the special object of this work, it is not intended to deal -with the various phases of Eose-oulture. To treat briefly of their culture as a flower-garden plant suitable for beds, pillars, and walls, is all that is attempted. To all who wish to become more thoroughly acquainted with Kose culture and capabilities, I would strongly recommend the careful study of 'The Rose Garden,' by Mr WiUiam Paul, who must be regarded as one of the most reliable of authorities; and this work of his seems to leave nothing about Roses unexplained, and expressed in the author's well-known clear style. There is also the more recently published and most captivating 'Book about Roses,' by the Rev. S. Reynolds Hole, which, in the most pleasing and impressive manner, instructs in all that is needed to be a successful grower and shower of the Rose. Propagation hy Cuttings. — Generally speaking, Roses for beds are best on their own roots, more especially where the soil is light. But in heavy cold soils it is preferable to plant such as are budded on the very dwarfest brier stock. The Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, Hybrid Bourbons, and China and Hybrid China Roses, which are the very best for beds, succeed in the majority of soils. The propagation of these sorts (except the China and Bourbons, which require glass) by cuttings is nearly as easy as the propagation of the Gooseberry or Currant in the open border, Avithout any protection whatever. This renders them peculiarly the Roses for amateurs, as well as all who wish to propagate their own Roses easily and speedily. From the middle of September to the middle of October is the best time to propagate these varieties in tliis manner. In taking the cuttings, those that have well matured their growth, and are strong and straight, should be selected. AVhen detach- ing these from the parent plants, take with them a small portion of the previous year's growth ; and in doing this it is readUy understood how not many cuttings should be removed near to one another, or the parent plant will be mutilated, whereas a thinning-out where they are crowded proves beneficial. In making the cuttings, cut their base cleanly through, just where the season's growth has started from, taking rather a thin slice of last year's wood to form a heel to the cutting : they should then be shortened to 9 or 10 inches in length, and are in this condition ready for being put into the ground. A border with a west or east aspect, or indeed any place where the soU is light and dry, answers well for putting them in. And the best way to plant them is precisely as practised in almost every garden ROSES — PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 163 with Gooseberry cuttings, — namely, digging the ground as you go on with the putting in of the cuttings, in rows a foot apart, and from 5 to 6 inches between each cutting, and so deep as only to have three to four eyes above ground — fixing each row well in the ground. To protect them from very severe frost is all the care that is necessary in the winter. Various ways can be pursued for thus keeping them. Of course, those who can afford to give them the protection of a frame or hand-glasses had better do so ; but it is not indispensable to success. Evergreen boughs, mats, or any similar protection, answers perfectly well, till all danger from severe frosts is over. These make beautifully-rooted plants by midsummer, without any further care than being kept clean, and the surface of the soil being stirred occasionally. And in November they can either be run out into nursery lines a foot or so apart each way, on deep, rich, loamy soil if possible, to make growth before being planted permanently in the beds; or they may be planted in the beds at once, to be afterwards thinned out when they get larger. In cold localities they stand the frost better if left unremoved till spring, when severe frosts are over. And probably it is best to leave the less robust-growing varieties to make two years' growth before being transplanted. Those who can command pots and pans with a gentle bottom- heat can root them at midsummer, as soon as the plants have shed their first crop of bloom. They should be taken from the parent plant the same way as described for autumn cuttings ; only they need not be so long, — about three inches, to insert in the pot, and two or three leaves or buds above the surface. Eight-inch pots, well drained, are firmly filled with about equal proportions of light loamy soil, leaf-mould, and silver sand, — the sand perhaps more than in equal proportion to the other two. When inserted not too thickly to crowd the leaves and cause them to be shed prematurely, they can be placed under the protection of glass and shaded from the sun, kept moder- ately moist at the root, and a little air put in for the night. Here they should remain for three weeks, or till the cuttings are calloused, when they should be plunged in a gentle bottom- heat, where they will soon emit roots. If put into bottom-heat at once, they are forced to grow and exhaust the store of food laid up in the cuttings; most of them would form a growth without making roots first, and many chances are against their ever making roots at all under such circumstances. After they 164 ROSES — PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. are rooted they can either be potted off singly into 4-inoh pots — ^which is the best way — or they can be potted, two or three or four, into 6-inch pots, in rich soil, and returned to the pit or frame again for a few days, till they get hold of the soil. It is safest to winter those in pots under some protection till the following spring. The Tea-scented, China, and Bourbon Eoses do not root well except they have the protection of glass, but require no arti- ficial heat to strike them successfully. Cuttings about 4 or 5 inches long, taken off and prepared in the same way as de- scribed in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Chinas, and H. Bourbons, and put in sandy soil in any well-sheltered place in the autumn, will be rooted in spring, when they should be potted off and kept under glass till established in pots, and planted out in June. Throughout the winter they are apt to be tormented with worms, and the best way to prevent this is to put a layer of fresh soot under the prepared soil in the hand- glass. Damp, too, affects them injuriously ; and the lights should be taken off occasionally when the weather is fine. Nurserymen generally keep a stock of these Koses in pots, expressly for planting in beds, and they can now be purchased very cheaply. They force the Teas, and other sorts as well, like a Verbena or any other bedding plant, aad strike the young growths in bottom -heat the same as any soft-wooded bedding plant ; and cuttings so rooted make nice little plants the same year. Propagation hy Budding. — This is an interesting operation, and one at which many amateurs are expert and successful. The Dog-Eose, which grows so abundantly in the neglected hedgerows of many parts of England, and the Manetti, are the stocks mostly used for budding on. There is a great difference of opinion among the highest authorities as to the comparative merits of these two stocks. In ' The Eose Garden,' Mr William Paul asserts very positively that his experience condemns the Manetti as a stock for delicate Eoses, for which others recom- mend it, and states that he finds them grow more vigorously on it for a year or two at first, but that they decline as rapidly. Our own experience, on rather light loamy soil, corroborates this. The stocks should be planted in autumn, in well-manured, deeply- wrought, loamy soil. All the strong roots should be cut closely back, so as to encourage a tendency to make more fibrous ones. The stems should be cut back to the height desired. If for beds of dwarf Eoses, they should be cut down KOSES — PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 165 to within 6 or 8 inches of the surface of the ground. As soon as they begin to grow in spring, look over them, and remove all the buds but three, leaving those nearest the top of the stock, and that are arranged regularly round it. The time to perform the operation of budding must be determined by circumstances ; for although July is generally the best time in ordinary seasons, yet the exact time has to be determined. When the bark can be easily raised, or made to part from the shoot, then is the proper time to commence budding. The way to perform the operation is so minutely and clearly described in ' The Rose Garden,' that we quote that authority in preference to our own : — " In the first place, obtain a shoot from the tree whose identity we wish the stock to bear. From this the leaves are cut olf — leaving, however, about half an inch of the leaf-stalk to every bud. Before proceeding further, the prickles should be rubbed off both stock and scion, that they may not interfere with the operation. Now take the budding-knife in the right hand, and make a longitudinal cut an inch in length, terminating at the top end with a cross cut. In using the knife, take care not to cut too deep ; through the bark is all that is necessary. Now turn the handle of the knife to the incision, running it up and down the out, twisting it slightly on either side, to raise the bark. All is now ready for the recep- tion of the bud. Take the shoot which is to furnish it in the left hand, with the thicker part towards the finger end, and, with the knife in the right hand, commence cutting about half an inch behind the bud, passing the knife upwards under the bud, and to about the same distance beyond it. The knife should have a keen edge, that the bark may not be rufHed in the operation. In cutting out the bud, the knife should pass through almost level ; it may, however, in some cases, dip a little when passing directly under the bud, as the wood before and behind it is not always on the same level. If the bud be cut ever so skilfully, there will be a little of the wood adhering to it. Some advise the removal of this ; others say, let it remain : much depends on circumstances. If the shoot is not fully ripe, or if, from the nature of the variety, the wood is soft when taken, cut the bud as shallow as possible, and place it with the wood in the stock. But the shoot is usually firm and ripe, and then the wood is withdrawn. . . . Place the bud on the back of the stock, parallel with the longitudinal incision, and with the upper end towards the top of the shoot ; then with the handle of the knife (a budding-knife, of course) raise the bark on the side opposite to that on which the bud is placed, pushing two-thirds of the bud beneath the bark with the thrust. Now raise the bark on the opposite side, and the bud may be gently pushed under with the handle of the knife, or will probably drop in. When properly placed, the eye of the bud should be directly under the opening 166 ROSES — PROPAGATION BY LAYERING. caused by the raising of the bark of the longitudinal incision ; if it be not so, the handle of the knife should be inserted beneath the bark, to push it to a right position. . . . After being inserted, the bud should be drawn upwards to the cross cut, and the upper end cut at the same angle, that its bark may abut against the bark of the stock laid open by the cross out. The bud then is inserted, and it now remains to bind it in. For this purpose take cotton or bast,— the former is generally preferred. Commence tying at the bottom of the cut, passing upwards tiU the whole length of the incision is bound over. . . . About three weeks after the operation has been performed, the cotton may be removed. If the bud is not well united, let it be tied up loosely again ; if it is, leave it united, and there is an end of care till the following spring. In February, the wild shoot may be cut away 2 inches beyond the buds, when the latter will break, and soon form a tree." Propagation hy Layering. — Bush Koses are easily increased by the ordinary process of layering, which is simple and easily performed even by the inexperienced. The ground round each plant is forked over to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, and well pulverised, so as to be free and easily worked amongst. A trowel, a sharp knife, and some ordinary wooden hooks or pegs, are the tools required for the work. July and August are the two months in which most generally the shoots are in a good state for layering. They are best in a firm but not over-ripe state, with the foliage fully developed and healthy. The medium shoots are the most preferable, avoiding the strongest and weakest. Take the shoot with the left hand, and bend it down towards the ground — calculating that the incised part has to be buried 2 or 3 inches deep — then cut the shoot half through at the part to be lowest in the earth ; and then upwards from this cut split the shoot, say 2 inches, and bend the top of the shoot upwards, so as to throw the split part or heel down perpendicularly into the earth. ^Vhen thus ready, make a hole with the trowel, put a little sand in the bottom of it and I'ound the heel, and fix it firmly with the peg ; tie the top or layer to a stake, and fill in the soil firmly, and the operation is complete. By October, or early in November, they will be well rooted, and should be removed, and either potted or planted in a rich, light, loamy soil, where they will soon make nice plants. Another very simple way of layering the Eose is to make the incision and heel in the same way as described, and to tie round it a bunch of moss or sphagnum, and a little soil in it. Into this the layer roots, and is taken ofi" and treated afterwards like •ROSES— PEUNING. 167 ordinary layers. If the weather be dry, the moss requires to be watered ; and this should be tied to a stake, to prevent its being lashed and twisted by the wind. A deep, rather heavy loam on a dry or well-drained subsoil is most suitable for the Eose ; but ordinary garden soil, if deeply worked and well manured with good substantial manure, grows them very well. They are particularly impatient of stagnant water about their roots ; and no manner of treatment will ensure success till the ground be thoroughly drained. Where the soil is very clayey and cold, Mr W. Paul recommends very strongly the mixture of burned earth ; the soundness of which advice I proved nearly twenty years ago on the clayey soil of Hertfordshire, where I burned clayey soil to a large extent, and watched its beneficial effect on many things besides Eoses. A clayey bed can be very thoroughly improved by taking the bottom spit out, burning it, and mixing it with a good dressing of rotten leaves with the rest of the staple. Light hot soils are improved for Eose-beds by the admixture of loam and rotten cow-manure, in preference to either stable - manure or leaf- mould. In planting Eoses on heavy clayey soils, it is always best to defer planting till spring, when all danger of severe frost is over, and after the ground is in good working order ; and on such soil a spadeful or two of lighter and rich soil about their roots in planting helps to give them a start. Tea-scented and other tender Eoses should be grown against the shelter of a wall in all cold places ; and in their case a dry soil is more desirable, both on account of their ripening better and standing more cold in dry than in heavy wet soils. Protection can easily be afibrded to dwarf Teas by shaking a little dry straw or ferns among and over them ; and to those on walls by mats. Mr Paul's directions for pruning, with a view to secure abundance of flowers — the object sought in bedding particularly — are so excellent and practical, that I quote them in preference to my own : — " When about to prune a Rose, I first look to the name, that I may know the habit and character of the variety I have to deal with. I must know whether it is a summer or perpetual bloomer, a strong or weakly grower, and whether the flowers are produced fine from low, middle, or top eyes, indiscriminately or not. It is only by knowing and considering these points that we can prune with accuracy and success. It is an axiom in Eose-pruning, that the more vigorous in habit a plant is, the more shoots should be thinned out, and the less should those that are left be shortened in. This has in view, in particular, the production of flowers in 168 HOSES — PRUNING. the most perfect condition. The eyes near the base of those kinds which form short shoots (especially the autumnals) usually produce the best flowers ; and in the vigorous growers we prefer, for the same reason, the eyes about the middle of the shoot, or nearer its summit, if the wood be well ripened. All Roses make two growths in the year— first in spring, and again in summer, shortly after they have flowered. Some of the au- tumnals start afresh at short intervals throughout summer and autumn ; but we wish at present to speak of spring and summer growths only, and ask to which we should look as calculated to produce the best flowers ? When the shoots formed in summer are well ripened, we prefer them, and for these reasons. The growth at that season is generally more rapid, and the shoots, although usually of less strength, are freer in the bark ; the eyes are more prominent and plump, and well stored with the juices re- quired to supply nourishment and promote growth." Of course these excellent remarks apply to dwarf Eoses on their own roots in beds, as well as to those worked on other stocks. But there is one object to be kept in view besides fine individual blossoms when Eoses are planted for effect in masses, and that is, a comparative amount of uniformity and compact- ness of growth. And in pruning for this object, the weaker growths should be pruned back to a few eyes, and the strong growths left from one to even two feet. But these latter should be fastened down, either to stakes or pegged down, so as to preserve the symmetry of the beds, if such is necessary, to correspond with surrounding objects; and in that way they throw up their blooms vertically, and have at the same time a check put upon their strong growth, while weaker growths reap the benefit. In summer it is well to look them over, and cut partially such rampant shoots, which Eoses on their own roots in rich soU are apt to make. "We have seen very pretty beds and lines of Eoses (Hybrid Perpetuals) formed by thinning out all the weaker shoots, and pegging the strong ones down close to the surface of the ground. This applies with greatest force to Eoses on their own roots, which, although they do not yield such large individual blooms as when budded on the Brier, are more suitable for dwarf beds, and are longer lived than the generality of budded plants. A top-dressing of rotten manure should be applied annually to the beds in autumn, and slightly forked in in spring, taking care not to injure the roots; and on light poor soils, watering with liquid manure, such as the drainage from stables and guano- water, is very beneficial, as also a good mulching of moss in the summer time. It looks neat, and prevents evaporation. EOSES— HYBRID PEUPETUALS. 169 Green-fly fuid the Eose-grub are the chief enemies of Roses, and must be kept in check by syringing with tobacco-water for the former, and constant hand-picking for the latter. Hybrid Perpetual Roses suitable for Beds, and general effect for Flower-ga rdens. Abbe Bramerel, crimson, shaded brown. Abel Grand, pale pink. Achille Gonod, carmine. Adelina Patti, rosy carmine. p Alexandrine Bachmeteff, red. Alfred Colomb, fiery red. A Anna Alexieff, rosy, tinted witli pink, p Anna de Biesbach, rose. Annie Laxton, rose. Annie Wood, crimson, p Antoine Ducher, bright rose. Antoine Montan, bright rose. Baron de Bonstetten, velvety crimson. A Baroness Rothschild, light rose. Baronne Maurice des Graviers, crimson. A Baronne Prevost, pale rose. A Beauty of Waltham, crimson, p Belzunce, vermilion. Black Prince, dark crimson. Boule de Neige, white. Camille Bernardin, bright red. A Caroline de Sansal, flesh. Charles Lefebvre, scarlet. Charles Rouillard, lilac rose. Charles Turner, No. 2, bright red. Comte de Serenyi, delicate rose, p Docteur Dor, red. Due de Cazes, crimson. Due de ilohan, crimson. Duchess of Connaught, crimson. Duchess of Edinburgh, silvery ■white, rose centre. Duchesse de Caylus, carmine. Duke of Wellington, crimson. Dupuy-Jamain, crimson. Earl of Beaconsfield, cherry. p Edward Morren, rose carmine. Elie Morel, rosy lilac. Etandard de Lyon, bright red. Eugene Appert, scarlet. Felix Genero, rosy violet. Fran9ais Fontaine, reddish purple. P General Jacqueminot, brilliant red. Gloire de Duoher, dark purple. Gloire Lyonnaise, yeEow. Her Majesty, clear rose; extra fine. Hippolyte jamain, bright rose, shaded carmine. Horace Vernet, reddish purple. Imperatice Eugenie, rosy white. Jean Liabaud, crimson. Jean Soupert, purple. John Hopper, rose. P Jules Margottin, cherry. La Brillante, rosy scarlet. La Prance, white, p A La Heine, rose. La Rosiere, amaranth. Le Havre, vermilion. Lord Clyde, scarlet. Lord Raglan, scarlet crimson. Louis XI V. , crimson. P Louis van Houtte, red. Louise Darzens, white. A Madame Boll, rose. Madame Caillat, rosy red. Madame Charles Verdier, ver- milion rose. Madame Charles "Wood, crimson. Madame Eugene Appert, rose. P Madame Hii^polyte Jamain, white. Madame Huzard, clear rose. Madame La Baronne de Roth- schild, rose. Madame Lacharme, white. Madame Lefebvre, rose. Madame Victor Yerdier, carmine. ■ Madame Vidot, pink. Marchioness of Exeter, rose. Marechal Vaillant, scarlet. Marie Baumann, vermilion. Marie Rady, bright red. Marquise de Castellane, rose. Maurice Bernardin, vermilion. Mrs Harry Turner, crimson. Mrs Jowett, glowing crimson. A Oxonian, rose. Paul Neron, dark rose. Paul Verdier, bright rose. Peach Blossom, peach. Pierre Netting, purplish crimson. Pride of Waltham, flesh colour. Prince Camille de Rohan, crimson. Princess Mary of Cambridge, flesh. Queen of Waltham, rosy cherry. 170 EOSES — BOtTEBON AND HYBRID BOUEBON. V Queen Victoria, white. Eeynolds Hole, maroon. Ricliard Lax ton, reddish crimson. S^nateur Vaisse, dazzling crim- son. Sir Garnet Wolseley, vermilion, shaded carmine. Souvenir de Charles Montault, vivid red. Souvenir de Julie Gonod, rose. Souvenir de Louis van Houtte, piirple rose. Souvenir de Spa, fiery crimson. Star of Waltham, crim.son. p Triomphe de TExposition, reddish crimson. A Triomphe de France, crimson. Vicouite Vigier, violet rose. Victor Trouillard, brilliant crim- son. Victor Verdier, cherry, Violette Bowyer, white. A William Griffiths, pale rose. Xavier Olibo, velvety black. " Those marked A are fine late autumn bloomers, and those marked P are fine Pillar Roses. Pillar Roses are very ornamental objects in good health and full of bloom, and are very imposing when planted in a line — for instance, along the side of a walk, with evergreens a, little distance behind them as a background. The supports or pillars are of course most durable if of iron or cast-metal ; but wood, if that portion of it which is sunk into the ground be charred, lasts a long time. Larch poles with the snags left about 6 inches long, are commonly used for Pillar Roses, and last remarkably well. " We commence pruning at the bottom of the pillar, by thinning out the vigorous shoots formed there. Two are cut off within a foot of the ground, and left to fill the base. . . We ascend the pillar, thinning as we proceed, till we reach the top. Here we select one or two of the strongest and best-placed shoots to continue the ascent, and tie them up. Prom their position, an abundant flow of sap furnishes them with the means of free growth, and favours the rise of the plant. The small lateral or side shoots are now cut back to three or four eyes. If any spot in the pillar is thin, we cut a, shoot back ix> one or two eyes, and thus get a strong shoot or two, by which we fill the vacuity nest season. . . . We continue to follow this method of procedure from time to time, tying up the leading shoots till the pillar is covered the desired height, which perhaps should not exceed 12 feet. The lateral shoots of short well-ripened growth are those which produce flowers with the greatest certainty. They may be shortened in to four or six eyes. Pillar Roses send up almost invariably strong shoots from the base of the plant during summer and autumn. These, if not wanted, may be out out as soon as discovered ; but it is well to leave one or two, as they may often be made use of to keep the pUlar in a vigorous state when perfected, or to renovate it when decaying. By keeping up a constant supply of young shoots, the old hide-bound stems may be removed as they exhibit symptoms of debility." ^ i Acidalie, . Ariuosa, . Baronne Gouella Bourbon and Hyhi-iJ Bourbons. blush centre. white, pink. crimson. ' Paul's Rose Garden. ROSES — CHINESE AND HYBRID CHINESE. 171 A Catherine GiiiUot, B p Charles Duval, . H B P Charles Lawson, II B p Coupe d'HebS, II B A Dr Berthet, . B Duchesse de Thuringe, B Emotion, . A Empress Eugenie, . Juno, H B Louis Margottin, B Louise Odier, . B Mdlle. Emaiu, . H B Model of Perfection, P Paul PeiTas, . H B Paul Ricaut, HB p Pierre de St Cyr, B Prince Albert, . B Queen, B Queen of Bedders, B Reine Victoria, B Rev. H, Dombrain, p Sir Joseph Paxton, B A Souvenir de la Malm aison B lilac rose ; fine autumnal flower pink ; large and excellent. rose ; full and good. deep pink ; splendid. cherry, shaded with purple white, tinged with lilac ; tine French white. rosy blush. pale rose ; very large. light rose. rose. white. rose. pale rose. crimson ; very fine. pink. scarlet crimson ; free bloomer. salmon ; splendid bedder. purplish crimson. brilliant rose. crimson, shaded violet. rose, shaded crimson. flesh colour ; fine for beds. The whole of these make good bedding Eoses, and many of them are amongst the best autumnal-flowering Eoses we have, and do well in light loamy soils on their own roots. They are not quite so hardy as the Hybrid Perpetuals, and in cold localities would be best planted on walls, or exclusively in low bushes ; so that, when severe winters occur, some fern or litter might be easily shaken among and over them for protection. This of course applies especially to cold situations and severe ■winters. The special feature in pruning them is, that it is best to prune closer than in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals. The weakest shoots should be removed entirely to prevent over- crowding, and the strongest cut back to three or four eyes ; and the operation is best deferred till spring, especially if late flowering be the object. Chinese, Hybrid Chinese, and Crimson Chinese. bright rose. rosy blush. light carmine. vermilion. pure white. crimson. pure white. vivid crimso light crimson. rosy white, yellow centre. rosy crimson. pure white ; fine bedder. rose ; very beautiful. Alfred Aubert, . p Blairii, No. 2, . H c p Brennus, . . H c P Chinedole, . H Clara Sylvain, . Cramoisie Superieure, c c Ducher, . Fabvier, . . c Henri Cinq, La Fraioheur, . La Seduisante, . Lady of the Lake, . Madame Br^on, 1 crimson ; splendid. light f.rimsfiTi, 172 KOSES — TEA-SCENTED. Madame Lauviol de Barray, Mrs Bosanquet, P Magna rosea, . Napoleon, Tancredi, . H clear rose. c delicate flesh colour. H liglit rose ; large and fine. pink ; large and fine. c purplisli crimson ; tine. The Chinese (c) and Crimson Chinese (oc) varieties are the most continuous blooming Koses we possess. Hence the term Monthly Rose has been applied to them with great propriety; for from summer onwards to Christmas, weather permitting, they yield their great profusion of bloom : hence their superior- ity as bedding Roses. They are more impatient of severe frost than either the Bourbon or Hybrid Perpetuals. They bear pegging down in beds very well. If after the early blooming shoots have shed their blossoms, some of the strongest are shortened back regularly all over the bed, a more regular and plentiful succession of bloom will be secured, as the younger or later growths will come away with greater vigour and regularity, and so maintain an even crop of bloom. The Hybrid Chinese bloom onlj' in summer. There is an interest- ing section of the Chinese Rose, which, from their diminutive growth and bloom, are termed Fairy Roses. They are very pretty for edgings to other groups, especially on dry soils and mild localities. Of these, Alba (white). Fairy (pink), Jenny (crimson), and Nemesis (crimson), are amongst the best. Tea-scented. Abricoti, apricot. Adam, rosy salmon ; very fine. Alba rosea, white, centre peach. Aline Sisley, purplish violet. H Amabilis, liesh colour, centre buff. Barillet Deschamps, pale lemon. Beauty of Glazenwood, golden yellow. H Belle de Bordeaux, pink, crimson centre. Belle Pleur d'Anjou, satiny white. Belle Lyonnaise, canary yellow ; very fine. Bougere, salmou ; very tine. H Buret, crimson. Catherine Mermet, fleshy rose. China, white, creamy centre ; fine. H Conite de Paris, fleshy rose. Climbing Devoniensis, creaui. H Devoniensis, cream ; splendid old rose. Duo de M.agenta, rosy salmon ; fine. Duchess of Edinburgh, crimson. H Duchess of Westminster, bright cerise. H Duke of Connaught, deep crimson. Elize Sauvage, pale yellow ; beauti- ful. Etiole de Lyon, clear sulphur yellow. Eugene Desgaches, light rose ; very tine. II Gloire de Dijon, yellow, suffused with salmon. Goub.ault, bright rose ; very fine. II Hom^re, rose and salmon. Jean Dueher, salmon yellow. Madam Berard, bright rose. Madam Berard, yellow. Madame Dueher, bright yellow. Madame Falcot, yellow. Madame de St J oseph, pink ; very fine, n j\ladame Damaizin, cream and sal- mon. Madame Maurin, cream, shaded with salmon. ]\Iareohal Bugeaud, rose ; verj^ fine. H Marichal Niel, sulphur yellow; fine. Mdlle. Marie Arnaud, canary yellow. EOSES — NOISETTE AND PKOVENCE. 173 H Niphetos, lemon ; very large. Nina, white, i-i Pearl, -white ; fine. Perle des Jardinc?, orange yellow. H Souvenir d'un Ami, salmon and rose ; fine. H Safrano, saffron. The Bride, pure white ; fine. Vicomtesse de Gazes, orange yellow; fine. Viscountess Folkestone, creamy pinl:. The Tea Eoses are singularly delicate in their colouring, the blending of tints almost bidding defiance to a proper description, and their peculiar and pleasant fragrance is agreeable to nearly every one. They are, however, tender as compared to other sorts, and therefore not suitable for outdoors in cold soils and climates, except against walls where they can be easily pro- tected from frost, and where they ripen their wood and bloom the best. We have marked h those that are hardiest. They make beautiful beds in warm soils and localities. In preparing beds for them, drainage should be particularly attended to, and the bed elevated above the surrounding level. During winter some evergreen boughs should be stuck in amongst them to afford them protection. Planted under glass, they are magniiicent objects, and well deserve such a provision being made for them in large establishments. Pruning should always be deferred till after the frosts of spring are past. Noisette. B Aimte Vibert, pure white ; splendid. Bouquet d'Or, deep yellow. Caroline Kuster, lemon yellow"; fine. Celine Forestier, yellow. Cerise, rose. Cornelia, lilao rose. B Du Luxembourg, lilao rose. p La Biche, white. Lamarque, yellow. Madame Massot, white. B Madame Plantier, white. Margarita, yellow edged witli white. B Miss Glegg, white. Ophirie, golden salmon ; fine. Pumila alba, white. Reve d'Or, deep yellow. Sir Walter Scott, rosy lilac, p Solfaterre, yellow. p Triomphe de Rennes, canary. "William A. Richardson, orange. Those marked B are most suitable for beds; and where late flowers are an object, the Noisette Eoses are very useful, as they keep on expanding their large clusters very late in the autumn. Some of them form fine Pillar Eoses, such as Du Luxembourg and La Eiche. They should not be so closely pruned as is recommended for the Bourbons and Chinese. Provence or Cabhage Rose. Common or Cabbage, rosy pink. Cristata or Crested, rosy pink. Rachel, rose. Eeine de Provence, lilac blush. Scarlet Provence, rose. Unique or White Provence, white. 174 MOSS AND PEEPETUAL MOSS. The sweetness and beauty of these summer Koses make them universal favourites. They require liberal treatment as to manure, or they will not grow and flower well. They are very hardy, and best propagated by layers. In pruning, they should be closely cut back to two or three buds ; the more robust growers may be left somewhat longer. There are some dwarf- growing or miniature Provence varieties, of which Burgundy, De Meaux, and Spong are the best. Moss and Perpetual Moss. Those marked p are the Perpetuals. Baronne de Wassenaer, crimson. Blush, blush. Captain Ingram, purple. Celina, crimson. Common, rose. Crimson, crimson. Cristata, rosy pink. Etna, ciimson. ' .James Veitch, dark violet. Julie de Mcrsent, rosy blush. Lanei, purplish crimson. Madame Edouard, dwarf, blush and white, p Madame Landeau, red, striped white, p Madame Moreau, vermilion red. Perpetual White, white. Princess Alice, blush. Princess Royal, flesh. Reine Blanche, white. Salet, rose. White Bath, white, p White Perpetual, pure white. These are most exquisite summer-blooming Roses. Like the Provence, they require a rich soil to cause them to develop their flowers and moss well. They require to be pruned in the same way as the Cabbage Rose. The Common Moss is the sweetest. Austrian or Yellow Rose. Double Yellow. Harrisonii. Persian Yellow. These are very hardy and favourite Roses, and form probably the most graceful standards of any, especially Harrisonii. They also make very beautiful beds pegged down wliUe they last in bloom, which, however, is not very long. They require a rich dry soil to grow them well. In pruning them, it is only necessary to thin the growths out to prevent overoi-owding, and those left should not be shortened beyond topping the longest, to form the plant into shape. Harrisonii requires even less pruning than the others, and it is probably the most desirable to grow, as it forms beautiful heads as standards, and is also the best for a bed when so grown. The old double yellow, sulphurea, is a beautiful Rose, but very shy of blooming. I succeeded in blooming it regularly in Middlesex, planted against a wall, pruning and training it exactly like a peach, but never topping it bej'oud the dead tops ROSES — BOUESAULT AND AYESHIEE. 175 of the shoots. The shoots were kept closely nailed to the wall as they grew, and managed thus, it flowered regularly ; and a beautiful object is a perfect Eose of this variety. The foregoing lists comprise the Eoses that are, generally speaking, most suitable for planting for producing efiect in gardens. For beds, the Chinese give the most continual bloom, and the Bourbons are excellent for autumnal flowering. The Hybrid Perpetuals, though there is a pause in their flowering, are indispensable as summer and autumn Eoses. There are many beautiful Eoses included in the Damask and Gallica or French Eose sections ; but as it is foreign to my object to treat of Eoses except in the most popular and useful way, I pass them over, and will enumerate a few varieties which are most useful as wall and climbing Eoses. Almost all Eoses that are suitable for pillars are also suitable for walls ; but there are some not generally used or suited for pillars that are, from their peculiarity of habit, strictly speaking. Wall Eoses. Climbing Eoses suitable for covering walls, fences, pillars, arbours, arches, &c. : — Boursault. Amadis, crimson. I Gracilis, "briglit red. De risle, blusli. | Inermis, red. Ayrshire. Alice Gray, creamy Uush. I Queen of the Belgians, creamy white. Ayrshire Queen, purple crimson. E«ga, flesh. Dundee Kambler, creamy white, | Splendens, flesh. These are, from their hardy and free nature, suitable for covering walls, or the north side of any object that it is desirable to cover. The Ayrshire, in particular, are quick growers ; and for running over an object and covering it rapidly, they are admirably adapted. They are not very particular as to soil, and thrive almost anywhere. The Bour- sault Eoses should not be much cut back at pruning ; but instead, the shoots should be well thinned out, and those left, laid in nearly their whole length. The Ayrshires require very little care of any sort, beyond being thinned out a little, and confined to the object they are designed to cover. They form beautiful weeping Eoses, budded on tall stocks. Evergreen or Sempervirens. Adelaide d'Orldans, white. Felicity Perprtuelle, flesh colour. Jaunatre, fawn. Myrianthes, peach. Eampant, pure white. Spectabilis. 176 EOSES — BANKSIAN, ETC. These are suitable for the same purposes as the Ayrshire, and have the additional recommendation of being nearly evergreen, for they retain their foliage till far on into -winter. In pruning them, they should be treated similar to the Boursault — the shoots thinned out, and those left not shortened back mucL They make excellent pillar and -weeping Eoses. Those three sections are best adapted for cold localities, where such as the Banksian do not succeed. The autumnal-flowering Roses, such as the hardiest of the Teas, the Noisettes, Hybrid Perpetuals, the Chinas, &c., also make excellent "wall Roses, but of course are not so well adapted for covering quickly as those cLLmbuig or runndng varieties. The Banksian. Alba grardiflora, wliite. i Old Yellow, yellow. Jaime serin, bright yellow ; fine. "White, white. Jaune vif, yellow. ' These are magnificent objects on a -wall in early summer, "when they produce their enormous profusion of flowers in clusters. They are, however, tender, and only suitable for localities where the soil is dry and the climate good. "\Miere they succeed "well, they grow very rapidly, making very long shoots. The older they ^et, the more freely do they bloom. They should be pruned in summer, immediately after they are done blooming. The shoots should be thinned out, particularly those that are of most gross growth, as they are least likely to ripen. The gro"wths left should not be shortened back much — merely topped. The Macartney and Jlicrophylla are also good climbing Eoses, and bloom in autumn ; but they are, like the Banksian, tender, and require warm, sheltered situations. In the gen- erality of localities, it is much better to substitute for these tender varieties the Boursault and Ayrshires for summer, and the hardiest of the Noisettes and Perpetuals for autumn flowering. Almost all the Roses we have enumerated are excellent as standard and half-standard Roses ; and those who admire them in that form can find plenty of them very cheap in the principal nurseries all over the country. The climbing Musk Eoses are esteemed for their peculiar fragrance ; and being abundant autumn flowerers, and hardy, they are suitable for pillars and walls. "Elvers" and "Princess," the former pink and the latter yellow, are excellent varieties ; and so is the white Musk. 177 CHAPTER XIII. THE HARDY FLOWER-GARDEN— Oontinued. SPRING FLOWEES. To some extent, the present style of summer and autumn flower-gardening has been built up and carried out on the ruins of spring flowers. The great numbers of half-hardy and tender plants suitable for summer display that have to be propagated and cultivated, have led in most instances to the neglect, to a great extent, of those hardy plants that are adapted to beautify the parterres in spring. It ■would, however, be difficult to say that any absolute reason exists why this should be so. The care which the one set of plants necessitates, does not necessarily become a reason why the other set should be neglected. There can be no doubt that the fact of the most opulent and fashion- able families being, in the majority of cases, away from theii- country-seats in the spring and early summer, has been the chief cause of directing the efforts and attention of gardeners to the crowding of as many flowers into the autumnal months as possible. Hence the eagerness with which every plant that blooms profusely, or is remarkable for its foliage during that time of the year, has been craved for and cultivated in great numbers. And hence, also, one great reason why spring gardening has been neglected. This example, set by the leaders of society, has exercised a wonderful influence on the owners of small gardens; and they, too, have paid less atten- tion to spring flowers than they ought to have done. Of course there is nothing that could justify the gardener, except an express command, in devoting his resources and energies to the decoration of the flower-garden during the time that his employers are absent. His interest lies in bending all the ingenuity of his mind to the making of the garden most gay and interesting, either in spring, or in summer M 178 SPRING FLO WEES. or autumn, or Ijoth, as his employer may wish, and allows means for. Depend upon it, the interest of gardeners lies here. This does not apply to a large class, for whom especially this work is intended — such as business men and amateurs, who derive so much healthy relaxation to both body and mind from their gardens all the year round, and who, if they leave their villas for a season, do so in autumn. A reaction in favour of spring flowers and hardy herbaceous plants in selection has taken place, and nurserymen find it to their interest to get up lists of these, and are finding a brisk trade for them. Where the families are resident in spring, the beds and borders are now, in increasing instances, not left empty all the winter and spring. The result has been nothing less effective than Flora's ample spring stores of beautiful objects would warrant any one acquainted with them to expect. It is not necessary to grow a vast number of species and varieties to produce a beautiful, if a less imposing, effect in spring as well as in summer. But in respect to variety, and taking annuals and bulbs into consideration as well as hardy perennials, spring unfolds perhaps more beauty and variety of form than does the glow of autumn in plants suitable for beds and borders. And it need scarcely be said that plants, to be available for flowering in March, April, and May, must of necessity be perfectly hardy, and, for this reason, within the reach of the humblest amateur who commands a few square yards of a flower border, even if he has not so much as a common garden hand-glass Such can make their garden gay more easily, and at less expense, than it is possible to do in summer and autumn with half-hardy plants. ^Moreover, spring flowers are nearly all so exceedingly easy to cultivate well, that they are in this respect also within the reach of the great majority, much more so than the class of plants so largely cultivated for the parterre in summer. On this account alone, it is exceedingly desirable that the cultivation of, and taste for, spring-flowering plants should be encouraged. They are peculiarly the flowers for the million. We can hardly agree with those who have affirmed that flowers are in many cases the mere toys of the rich, but can conceive how they may become something like friends and comforters of the lowly, and produce in the mind, many times, the feeling which fortified the spirit and strengthened the nerves and hopes of the lonely desert wanderer, when he let his eye rest on the desert moss. The authoress of the ' Life of Hedley Vicars ' showed how well BEAUTIES OF SPKING FLOWERS. 179 she understood the influence of the love of flowers upon the human heart, when she placed a posy on the plate of each navvy when he sat do^Ta to her tea-meetings at Beckenham. These "floral apostles" come to us in spring especially, ministering almost human sympathy; and it is sincerely to be desired that their cultivation should be extended and encouraged among all classes. If means are in any case circumscribed — and, in such cir- cumstances, the filling of a whole parterre of considerable extent with spring -flowering plants cannot comfortably be accomplished in that order and variety which an ambitious mind desires at once — a compromise should be made. By this I mean to convey, that from the variety aflbrded by annuals in conjunction with such other plants as are easily procured and very rapidly increased, such as Daisies and Violas, and with the aid of cheap bulbs, such as Crocuses and Tulips, a very gay spring parterre may be attained in a very short time ; and by degrees other plants more difficult to procure, and tedious to increase, can be added. In fact, the same choice afforded in autumnal flower-gardening is equally to be commanded in spring. As will at once become apparent to the inexperienced by the lists that are furnished, there is no lack of spring-flowering plants available for all classes. There is a rich and most beautiful fund in common bulbous plants alone. Such things as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Narcissus, Scillas, &c., need only be named to make this evident. From the cultivation of the hardy Scillas we can testify from experience that much interest arises. Hardy annuals and biennials can be raised easily and rapidly; and these alone, in combination with a few varieties of Violas, wonderfully improved of late years for grouping purposes, to say nothing of perennials, afibrd a con- siderable amount of variety, and sufficient in colours for most effective combinations. The odour and lively tints of some of these plants are peculiar to themselves. And though we may not be able to point to the dense massiveness of the scarlet Pelargonium, the Verbena, and the Calceolaria, as available for autumn, spring can boast of more delicious odours, and far more delicacy and variety of tiats. True, spring cannot produce the lovely foliage of the Mrs Pollock class of Pelargoniums ; but there is the golden Arabis, which always puts on its best dress towards winter. Spring is certainly deficient in, though not destitute of, dark-foliaged plants; for there is the dark-leaved Ajuga, and in silver variegation there are the variegated Arabis 180 ANNUALS FOE SPRING. and Euonymus radicans variegatus, as well as the variegated Ivies and Periwinkles, and various deep golden and silver shrubs, the beauty of which is most conspicuous in winter and spring, while trees are leafless. Time will not fail to make good these seeming deficiencies; and in the meantime it cannot be said of spring, that from lack of variety it does not encourage the lovers of flowers to drape their gardens with the loveliest hues, and perfume the air with the most refreshing odours in spring as well as in autumn. But instead of balancing the adaptability of the two classes of plants for producing beauti- ful combinations, the various capabilities of spring -flowering plants will be adverted to individually, as they are treated of in detail. I will only further say, for the encouragement of all owners of gardens who reside at their places in spring, that, for sweetness and chasteness of efi'ect, many of the spring combinations far surpass those of autumn, and that many of the spring colours are as brilliant — and some much more so — ■ as any that autumn can produce. What can surpass the purples of the Pansies, the yellows of the Alyssum and Cheiranthus, the Tulip and the Crocus ? And in deep bright blues, the Soillas, the Gentians, and Porget-me-not stand unrivalled. Then there are the white Violas, Daisies, Forget-me-not, etc., that are scarcely rivalled for whites by the popular favourites of the autumn parterre. The Anemone affords scarlet of the most vivid kind, although, as beds for general effect, not equal to the scarlet Pelargoniums. I will now proceed to treat of the various plants in detail, and to be comprehensive, will deal with Annuals as a whole; for their management is so nearly alike, that to treat of them individually is not necessary. All the herbaceous and bulbous plants treated of in tins department, are of course equally well adapted for the mixed herbaceous border. Annuals. — In selecting a border on which to sow ^Vnnuals, one with an east or west aspect is preferable to one having a south or north one. The south is too scorching, and on the north they are sure to become drawn and tender. To avoid a gross growth, the soil should be rather poor than rich. A moderately liglit free- working soil is the best ; and if shallow digging is to be recommended in any case in flower-gardening, it is in that of sowing Annuals, to be transplanted with balls and as fibry roots as possible. If the ground is open and well worked to a great depth, those varieties which have a tendency to make tap-roots will have the more encouragement to do so, ANNUALS FOR SPKING. 181 and their removal to tlio flower-garden beds and borders in autumn, with balls and fibry compact roots, is rendered more uncertain. A well-worked staple of about 6 to 8 inches, resting on rather a solid or firm subsoil, is more likely to produce com- pactly surface-rooted plants. The sowing of Annuals is as simple as the sowing of a bed of cabbage. Tliey can either be sown broadcast ia beds, where a great quantity is required, or the ground can be divided into 4 or 5 feet beds, and then drills drawn lengthwise in the beds at 3 to 4 inches apart. It is much better to take up an extra space than to sow too thickly on a smaller. Should the weather be dry at the time of sowing, a good plan is to give the bed a soaking of water the evening previous to sowing ; and after sowing, to cover with fine moderately moist soil. The small seeds should be covered a quarter of an inch, the large half an incli ; and larger seeds, such as Lupins, an inch deep. If the weather be very scorching, a few evergreen boughs laid over the beds will prevent rapid evaporation, and the vegetation is more likely to be regular and healthy. Especially is this applicable to the Forget-me-not, which is naturally fond of moisture. Indeed, though this lovely spring bedding plant flowers very well by being treated the same as the other Annuals, it flowers more vigorously when two years old. As in the case of all Annual sowing, slugs must be looked after as soon as the seedlings appear above ground ; but these enemies are not so troublesome in the case of autumn as in that of spring sowing. At wliatever time or for whatever purpose Annuals are cultivated, they should never be allowed to spoil from crowding ; and if in any case this is likely to occur to a serious extent before transplanting time, the beds should be looked over and thinned. When any plant runs up speedily from overcrowding, it sufiers serious injury, from which it seldom entirely recovers. Where room could be aflx)rded, the strong tap-root producers, which are apt to grow too gross, especially in damp seasons, and become difficult to transplant with safety, would be best sown in pots, and kept in an open airy situation, where they could grow dwarfer, and could be transplanted with balls with- out receiving a check. The whole of these Annuals can be suc- cessfully cultivated for spring blooming, by sowing in heat in small pots in January ; and after being properly hardened ofi", planted out in February, weather permitting. But gardeners and amateurs have always so many other things demanding space under glass at this early season, that it is desirable to 182 LIST OF SPRING ANNUALS. SOW in autumn, and have recourse to early solving to make up gaps that may occur in the course of the winter. In cold damp localities I would recommend a more limited use of Annuals than in more favoured places. There are so many perfectly hardy things, among which Pansies must take a first rank, that the greater proportion of spring flowers may consist of Perennials and hardy bulbs, unaided by anything requiring to be raised from seed, except a very few. The most hardy Perennials proper afibrd sufficient shades of colour to make the flower-garden very beautiful in localities where there is nothing extraordinary in either the soil or climate. Some of the Annuals are, however, so hardy and so beautiful — such, for instance, as the Forget-me-not — that they need never be dispensed with on the score of uncertainty. As there are but few Biennials that flower sufficiently early to make them suitable for spring gardening, I will not treat of them separately, but will class them along with Perennials. Annuals most suitable for Beds in the Spring Mower-Garden. «» Ft. Colour. Time to Sow. Alys.sum maritimum, 1 White. Middle of August. * Bartonia aurea, . n Orange. Do. * C;i]andrinia specios^, . Rose. Eud of August. ** Calandrinia umbellata, ^ Crimson. Do. .. Candytuft— white, purple, audi crimson, , / 1 Middle of August. *»* CoUinsiaalba, Wliite. «* CoUinsia bicolor, . Purple & white. Eud of August. *** Collinsia grandiflora, Purple. Do.^ ** CoUinsia verna, . Blue and white. Do. * Erysimum Pe^of^^kianum, . n Yellow. Do. * Esuhselioltzia calif omiea, . Yellow. Beginning of July. * Eschscholtzia crocea, Orange. Do. * Eutoca viscida, Blue. Middle of August. * Gypsophila elegans, -', Pmk. Do. ■*»* Lasthenia calilornica, i' Yellow. End of August *,.» Lininanthes Douglassii, I Straw colour / Uo., or early in Sep- \ temher. Limnanthes sulphurea odoratit, i Yellow. Do. »* Lupinus alba, '1 White. Middle of September. *« Lupinus nanus, ■I Blue. Do. *** Myosotis arvensis, 1 Blue. Middle of June. »** Myosotis arvensis alba, 1 White. Do. Myosotis dissitiflora, . 1 Azure blue. Do. * Nemophilaatomaiia, . ^ White spotted. End of August. *»# Nemophila insignis. i Blue. Do. *** Sapoiiaria calabrica, 1 Rose. Middle of August. *■*» Saponaria calabrica alba, J Wliite. Do. *«» Silene pendula, .... 1 Pink. Middle or end of July. Silene pendula alba. 1 White. Do. Silene pendula flore-j>l6no, . ** Venus's Looking-glass, 1 / Blue.yellow, \ \ and white. / End of August. * Virginian Stock, red and white, . 1 Do HAllDY PERENNIALS — AJUGA — ALYSSUM. 18^ The wliole of these are effective for beds, lines, and edgings, but some are much superior to others, and their order of merit is shown by the asterisks aiExed to each : * good, ** better, ***best. Where the garden to be decorated is of medium or only small size, the best only are to be recommended ; but the whole, as well as those marked for autumn sowing in a former list, are useful for mixed borders. Hardy Perennials and Bulbous -rooted Plants. — The general remarks which have already been made on this class of plants as applied to their growth as mixed border plants, do not apply with sufficient minuteness to their management when grown in masses in beds and borders from which they require to be removed annually, to make way for summer and autumn flowering plants. Although their culture is happily so easy, and requires no expensive appliances, it is nevertheless neces- sary that at least each genus should be treated of separately, and the particular capabilities of some of the species and varieties pointed out. This I will now attempt to do in as condensed and simple a manner as I can, and hope that the veriest tyro may be able to see that a flower garden, border, or bed need not be destitute of floral beauty during the spring mouths. Ajuga reptans rubra, i inches, crimson foliage — November to May. A native of Britain, and a very effective plant all winter and spring; and being a low-growing plant, covering the ground with a dense foliage of dark copper or almost crimson colour, it is most useful for groundworks, or for lines and edgings associated with plants that have yellow or white flowers or foliage, such as Cerastiums and golden Arabis. It thrives well in any ordinary garden soil. All attempts to produce flowers should be checked by removing them at once ; for, like most other plants, if allowed to bloom, the foliage is not so fine. When removed from the beds, it should, if possible, have a moist shady place allotted to it, as it likes moisture. It can be very rapidly increased as it creeps along the ground, and makes roots at every Joint ; and every morsel with a root, if divided in June, makes a fine plant for autumn planting. Alyssum oompactum, 6 inches, yellow— April and May. Alyssum gemonense, 1 foot, bright yellow — April, May, and June. Alyssum saxatile, 9 inches, yellow — April and May. Alyssum saxatile variegatum, 9 inches, yellow— April and May. These are among the most beautiful and lasting yellow spring-flowering plants that can be grown, and the most easily 184: ADONIS — ANEMONES. managed, requiring nothing peculiar in tlie way of soil. They are very tenacious of life, and consequently bear removal well. The same plants may be used for a number of years, but they are most vigorous when three to five years old from the cutting. Still, large old plants go a long way in covering the ground, as their longer limbs can be spread out and pegged. Cuttings taken in June and July, and put into light soil behind a south wall, and without any covering of glass, root freely. Short healthy cuttings from about the lower parts of the old plants, just pulled off with a heel, are the best. Make them firm in the ground, and give a watering immediately they are put in. A. saxatile variegatum and A. compactum grow more compact than A. saxatile ; and they can be increased very easily by taking moderate-sized plants, that sit, so to speak, close on the ground, and splitting off each limb with a piece of root attached. Summer-struck plants make fine compact little plants for small beds, edgings, and lines, but do not flower quite so freely as older plants. When they are removed from the beds, all the flower-stems should be removed ; and if they attempt to flower early in autumn, the bloom should be removed, as their flowering at that season only tends to exhaust the plants. A. saxatile variegatum is chiefly useful for its variegated foliage ; and to A. argenteum, wliich has a light-grey foliage, a similaj- remark applies. They, however, are effective enough as yellow flower- ing plants, but the light-green-leaved variety of saxatile is the strongest and best bloomer. They are also excellent rockwork and basket plants. Adonis vernalis, 6 inches, yellow — March and April. This is a lovely little spring favourite. Its flowers are of a clear yellow colour, about as large as a penny-piece. It thrives best in a loamy limestone soil, but succeeds very well in ordinary loamy soil. Its management as to propagation is so simple that little need be said about it, beyond that this is effected by dividing the tufts into as many pieces as can be had with roots, and planting in moderately rich soil, and watering for a while in dry weather, till they get hold. The division should take place as soon as the blooming season is over. Anemone alpina, IS inches, white — April and May. Anemone apennina, 9 inches, blue — March and April. Anemone coronaria, 9 to 12 inches, various — ilarch to June. Anemone nemorosa flore-pleuo, 6 to 8 inches, wliite — March and April. Anemone ranunculoides, 6 inches, yellow — April. ANEMONES. 185 Anemone sylvestris, 1 foot, white — April and May. Anemone verualis (new), 6 inches, white — March and Ai^ril. Of all the diversified forms of floral beauty which can be used for adorning the garden in spring, few excel the Anemone. Its flowers, of the most brilliant and varied hues, and elegant foliage combined, render it a most useful plant for spring decoration. The hybrids and varieties of A. coronaria are numerous and beautiful, embracing self- colours of brilliant scarlet, rose, blue, purple, violet, &c., as well as spotted and striped varieties without number. The self-colours are most efieotive in groups and lines, and all are beautiful for mixed borders. The double varieties, though larger, are of course more expensive to buy, and do not last quite so long in bloom as the single varieties ; but they are so exceedingly beautiful, that no garden should be without them where spring flowers are required. But let us even take A. apennina (the Mountain Anemone) with its vivid blue flowers, almost as big as a crown- piece, and which sometimes flowers so early that we have it forming a carpet of blue simultaneously with the Crocus and the Snowdrop, and so hardy that it can be planted anywhere, although it and A. nemorosa likewise do best in a shady place, where the roots can remain undisturbed. I believe there are some beautiful new ones besides A. vernalis, such as A. palmata, with deep golden flowers; but I have not seen them, and cannot speak of their merits. A. hortensis might be supplemented. It has large flowers, with narrower and more numerous petals than the varieties of A. coronaria. A. sylvestris and alpina are well adapted for mixed borders. The best soil for the Anemone is a deep sandy loam, well pulverised and manured with rotten cow or horse manure. For early spring flowering, the tubers should be planted in October ; and for flowering late in spring and early summer, February or March is soon enough. We have a great dislike to the system of so thoroughly drying the roots as is the case when they are purchased, and would recommend their being laid in moderately moist sand for a time, or till they begin to move, before finally planting them ; because, if put into the ground and wet weather occur, they rot ofi' in large quantities after being so dry. In planting them, the simplest way is to open drills with a hoe about 2| inches deep, placing a half-inch of fine sandy soil in the drill, then the roots, and then fill up with light sharp compost. To have good beds, they should be planted C inches by 4. The Anemone does not bear transplanting well j 186 ARABIS. and where it can be done, tliey should be left in the beds or borders, and only lifted occasionally and divided, if increase of tubers is desired. In cases, however, where the beds have to be fiUed for summer and autumn show, they must be lifted ; and when they caimot be removed with balls, and watered to keep them fresh for a time, it is best to leave them till they are pretty well ripened, and then lift them and not to dry them by any means, but to store them in light rather dry soil till required for planting iu October again. I have frequently raised quantities from seed, and this is a good way of increasing stock rapidly. The seed should be gathered when dry, and sown, immediately it is gathered, in light rich soil, covering about half an inch deep, and shading with a mat or evergreen boughs till the young plants appear, many of which will flowei' the following year ; so that by this means, and division of the roots, stock can be quickly worked up. Ai'abis albida, 9 inches, white — February to May. Arabis albida variegata, 9 inches, vaiiegated foliage — Februai-y to May. Ai'abis lucida variegata, 6 inches, golden foliage — February to May. Arabis mollis, 9 inches, white — February to May. Arabis mollis variegata, 9 inches, white — February to Hay. Whether we regard the Arabis for their very early and profuse show of white flowers, or for the lovely foliage of the variegated sorts, they must be looked upon as indispensable in spring decoration, and they are as suitable for rockwork or the stump of an old tree as for the richest borders. Indeed, the variegation of the foliage is not improved by richness of soil, but the reverse Nothing can be more lovely than A. lucida variegata as an edging or long line when backed up with some dwarf blue plant. I have heard of one called A. cierulea, a new species from Switzerland, with glossy green leaves and blue flowers, which, if it blooms in spring, as I apprehend it will, must become a favourite. They are all most useful plfints for the amateur who has not the command of much glass, especially those with variegated foliage, as they are most eSective in summer as edging plants, as well as in winter. The variegated sorts should not be allowed to bloom when grown for their foliage, as they never make fine foliage if allowed to exhaust themselves with, a crop of bloom. When used for both summer and spring gardening, they require only to be lifted every third yeai- or so. If left much longer, A. mollis and A. albida (wliich are very much alike) become rather large aiad clumsy, and in wet winters are apt to damp ofl'. AUBEIETIA — DAISIES. 187 Their propagation and culture are very simple: the old plants only require to be taken up and pulled to pieces, when each individual tuft, with about 3 inches of the stem to hold it well in the ground, will soon make a plant, if run out like box into lines in ordinary garden soil. If a little rich sandy soil is put about the necks of the pieces, all the better. Edgings that have stood all summer, and are too large for the winter arrangements, can be thus lifted and dibbled in thickly in October; they root through the course of the autumn, and make nice spring edgings. Varieties like A. mollis variegata are not so likely to suffer from damping in a severe or wet winter when thus divided as when left en masse. They stand any amount of cold. The best time to divide A. lucida is in May, unless it can be done early in autumn. It being so short-necked, the winter frosts are apt to throw it out before it gets hold. Divided in autumn, and covered with mats during frost, it roots well, and can be planted in March. Aubrietia Gampbellii, 6 inohes, Uuish purple — April to June. Aubrietia deltoidea, 6 inches, bluish lilac — April to June. Aubrietia deltoidea grandiflora, 6 inches, bluish lilac — April to June. Aubrietia Mooreana, 4 inches, purple — JVFarch to June. Aubrietia purpurea variegata, 4 inches, purple — April to June. These are amongst the neatest and prettiest dense dwarf- growing spring flowers that can be used, especially in dry gravelly soil, which they will cover with a dense carpet of foliage and flower for two or three months. A. Campbellii, particularly, is of a very bright and pleasing colour. A. pur- purea variegata is also a remarkably pretty plant, especially for covering a dry bank, where its variegated foliage and purple flowers are seen in beautiful contrast. They are all very hardy, and can be as easily increased as the Arabis, and in the same way. They are more spreading, and often root on the ground. A. deltoidea grandiflora is excellent for planting on rockwork, where it grows into dense sheets of blossom. BeUis perennis (Daisy), 6 inches, various — February to June. Bellis perennis, double pink, 6 inches. Bellis perennis, double red, 6 inches. Bellis perennis, double white, 6 inches. Bellis perennis aucubsefolia, golden var. foliage, with crimson flowers. Bellis perennis prolifera, 6 inches. These varieties of the common double Daisy are of great service in the spring garden. Then there are those varieties known as Pink Beauty, Eob Eoy Crimson, and White Globe . — aU well worth growing. For small beds, and especially for 188 BULBOCODIUM — CAKDAMINE. long Imes and edgings, they are, from their compact even growth and wondrous powers of dense and long - sustained bloom, unique. They are the most easUy managed plants imaginable, as they will grow in any soil, bear transplanting remarkably well, and are capable of being increased with great rapidity. The double white and double red are the most tell- ing varieties when viewed from a distance: for although the golden-leaved variety is exquisitely beautiful in spring, winter, and autumn, it does not bloom so freely a^ the plain-leaved ones; but when seen close at hand, it is a charming plant. Like all other fine-foliaged plants, when grown expressly for its foliage, it will be finer if the blooms are picked off; but we are very partial to it when allowed to flower. To speak of the cultivation of Daisies may be considered superfluous : they Avill not puzzle even the greatest tyro. They will grow in dry soil, but will yield finer foliage, and blooms too, and for a longer time, in well-enriched soil. They should be planted thickly, whether in rows or in beds, so as to form a mass. They are increased by dividing them after the bloom- ing season; and for the summer the place where they are planted should be rather shaded, especially for the variegated sort. When it is required to get up stock quickly, they should be divided iii spring, and planted on Hght rich soU. Every morsel that can be had with roots, if kept weU watered in dry- weather, vnll make a fine plant by midsummer, when they can, if necessary, be lifted and divided and planted again ; and with the same treatment and a little shade, they will make fine plants for transplanting in October. Bulbocodiiini verniim, 6 inches, dark purple — March. Bulbocodium venium foliis striatis, 6 inches, striped leaves — March. This is a very pretty crocus-looking bulbous-rooted plant, requiring very much the same treatment as the Crocus. It should be planted near to the edge of beds and borders, so that the summer plants can be put in without disturbmg it, as it increases and altogether does best when allowed to remain undisturbed. The striioed-lcaved variety is nothing extra as a foKaged plant, but it is pretty, and worth growing as a variety. Cardamine pratensis flore-ideno, 12 in., pale purple — March and AprU. Cardamine trifolia, 9 inches, white— March and April. The first named of these is a double variety of a pretty British plant (Cuckoo Flower or Lady's Smock), which grows in moist meadows and watery places. Its corymbs of pale CEEASTIUM — CENTAUEEA. 189 purple are very pretty. 0. trifolia is also a lively plant, with dark-green foliage and heads of snow-white blossoms. They are both very easily managed plants, and can be increased very rapidly by dividing and re-dividing, as recommended for the Daisy. Being partial to moisture, they should be placed behind a north wall for the summer, and kept moist, especially if divided for propagation. They should be thickly planted to produce a mass. A rather retentive loam suits them best; but they thrive in ordinary garden soil, well manured. Cerastiiim Biebersteinii, silvery grey. Cerastium tomentosum (Snow-in-Summer), silvery grey. So popular is Cerastium, that it would be difficult to find a garden without it; and where absent, there is a great blank. For groundworks, for panelling, and for dotting with other plants, it is superb; while for edgings and long lines it has no rival as a dwarf, dense, effective, and easily managed plant. If planted afresh every spring in the way recommended for summer gardening, and kept nicely trimmed, it remains effec- tive and close in the nap the whole winter ; and where a sheet of white blossom is required in May, there are not many things to surpass this simple plant. It may frequently, however, be- come necessary to move it along with the autumn -flowering fraternity; and in that case I would recommend a quantity of it to be struck in August, by being simply torn from the summer stock, which frequently wants trimming, and run out into lines like box behind a north wall, in light rich soil. By the middle of October it is in fine order for transplanting, and in spring makes far fresher lines and masses than old stock that has been moved in autumn. Of the two named, I like C. tomentosum the best, but both are good; and associated with blue, purple, and dark foliaged plants, they are very effective; or with yellows or oranges, as harmonies, they are very sweet. When planted as groundworks for panels of blue and purple Bansies, and edged with red Daisies, they are also most effective. Centaurea acanthafolia, 12 to 18 inches, lovely silvery foliage. Centaurea ragusina, 12 to 18 inches, lovely silvery foliage. Centaurea ragusina conipacta, 9 to 18 inches, silvery foliage. For the propagation and general treatment of these fime plants, see Summer and Autumn Flower-gardening. As panel plants, or for the centre of baskets, they are most effective, and so hardy that they can be put out with all safety in most localities after the end of March if previously well hardened Missing Page "WALLFLOWERS. 191 If fine bushy plants are expected before the middle or end of October, the seed should be sown not later than the middle of May; the seedlings transplanted before they become crowded and drawn; and after they have begun to grow in the nursery rows, go over them and top them. This has the effect of causing them to be more compact and dwarf, and is another reason for sowing early. The propagation of the double varieties must of course be effected by cuttings. The error into which many fall who cultivate these as border flowers is, that they delay the putting in of the cuttings till too late; and as they take a long time in rooting, the season is over before the young plants can be established ; and on selecting the cuttings a good deal depends. The young shoots should be selected not later than the middle of May, if good plants are to be had the first year. A firm short cutting, not wiry and hard, but moderately firm, should be pulled from the parent plant, not cut. The heel should then be cut smooth with the knife and a few of the leaves removed, and it is ready for insertion. I am aware that where a large stock is required, longer cuttings must not be passed by : they must be shortened, so that the portion of the stem inserted in the ground should be moderately firm. In putting in these two sorts of cuttings they should be classed, as they sometimes do not strike simultaneously. To strike with the greatest success, a raised bed of soil should be formed, and 6 inches of equal proportions of light soil — loam if possible — and leaf-mould and sand, sifted finely and beat firmly over the top. Hand-glasses or a frame is a great advantage, where such means can be commanded; but they are not indispensable, for the cuttings will strike without them, though much more apt to suffer before they begin to callous over. The cuttings should then be firmly dibbled in about 2 inches apart, be well watered, and allowed to dry before the glass is put on. A shady place, such as behind a wall, where they will not require to be shaded by mats, is best. In the day-time, when the weather is hot and sunny, keep the glasses closely on, but put on a little lair at night. When they have calloused, they will begin to grow, and soon root, when they should be transplanted into well-man- ured and rather sandy soil. In this way the whole of the lingle varieties can also be increased, including C. Marshallii and C. ochroleucus. We have seen cottagers strike the double irieties in large flower-pots filled half full of road-grit and soil ixed together, placing the pot in a shady window or other lace, and covering its mouth sometimes with a pane of glass. 192 CORYD ALIS — CEOCUSES. The Wallflower, though it will grow on the top of an old wall, does best in a rather rich, dry, loamy soil, but is not by any means fastidious. Wlien planted finally, they should be moved with balls, which is more easily done when they are transplanted in the seedling state than when left in the seedling bed tUl autumn. Corydalis nobilis, 16 inches, yellow — April and May. Corydalis tuberosa, 8 inches, purple — March and April. These two plants, though they do not make a very con- spicuous show, are very elegant, taken as a whole. C. nobilis is a very effective plant for breaking up masses of colour, when such is produced by dwarf and more formal plants; and this being a style in which I am interested, I look upon this, among some others, as eft'eotive for planting in single specimens. C. tuberosa might be used as a graceful edging plant. Both these Corydalis are of easy culture, and lift better than most tuberous-rooted plants with balls. To increase them, the roots only need to be divided; and they can also be increased by cuttings very much in the same way as Dielytra. Crocns, Cloth of Gold, 4 inches, yellow — February to April. Crocus, Cloth of Silver, 4 inches, white, purple stripes. Crocns, common blue, i inches, blue. Crocus, common yellow, 4 inches, yellow. Crocus, David Eizzio, 4 inches, purple. Crocus, Gold-finder, 4 inches, white. Crocus, Ne plus ultra, 4 inches, violet, edged with white. Crocus, Queen Victoria, 4 inches, white. Crocus, Sir John Franklin, 4 inches, purple. And many other varieties. Among those early flowers which are the first promises of Flora's gifts, the Crocus, as an ornament of the spring garden, is a general favourite, being neat and trim in habit, delicate in its shades of colour, cheap, and easy of culture. Another feature which very strongly recommends it is its suitableness for planting close to the edges of beds and borders, where it will remain for years, and not interfere with the preparation of the beds for the summer flowers. It is also singularly well adapted for intricate planting in scrolls and designs in small borders, and as patches in mixed borders ; and for planting among grass, to take up the waning, simple beauty of the Snowdrop, it is v.'e\\ adapted. The varieties which are now enumerated in catalogues are, like many other tilings, endless ; but, as in the case of most other plants for groups and lines, distinct solf-colours are most effective, and the common varieties named above are the most useful and cheap. Those who wish CROCUSES — CYCLAMEN. 193 for striped and tipped varieties can become acquainted with them by consulting a bulb catalogue. The culture of this charming little plant is exceedingly- simple. When to be purchased and planted for the first time, I would recommend beginners, and especially where the soil is rather retentive than otherwise, to purchase and plant early — not later than the end of October. At the same time they can be planted in light dry soils all through the winter ; but it is not desirable to be later than the middle of November, even under the most favourable circumstances. As for most other bulbs, a sandy loam, well enriched with rotten manure, is the best. The ground should be broken up as finely as possible ; and in planting edgings and lines, the best way is to draw a drill widely, placing a double row of bulbs about a couple of inches apart in width in the bottom of the drill, and about 3 inches apart lengthwise, covering the bulbs to the depth of 4 inches. Should the ground be heavy, it is desirable to put a little fine sandy soil, or even sand itself, under the bulbs, and to fill up the drill entirely with light rich soil. For groups in mixed borders, six or eight bulbs should be planted, about 2 inches apart— each group being of the same variety, and the varieties planted time about as their colour suggests. They may remain undisturbed from four to five years, during which time they will multiply and improve. When lifted with the view of increasing them or regulating them, this should be done while the leaves are still green. The soil clings nicely to them, and they can be divided into patches and planted immediately, putting a little rich sandy soil about their roots ; and if well watered, they will scarcely suffer. Indeed I have frequently transplanted Snowdrops, Crocuses, and Daffodils when in full bloom, and divided them, without their suffering in the least. Mice are ravenously fond of Crocus bulbs, and must be vigilantly watched in the case of fresh plantations, especially when they have been covered with fresh soil. A few mice will soon play havoc with a great extent of bulbs, so that the little pests must be carefully watched and destroyed in the usual way, by trapping and poisoning. Cyclamen Coum, 3 inches, red— January and April. Cyclamen Coum vemum, 3 inches, red, mth var. fol. — Jan. and April. Cyclamen heder^folium, 3 inches, rosy pink — January and April. Cyclamen ihericnm, rose and white — March and April. It would be difficult to point to any plant which combines so much tiny gracefulness and sparkling beauty in so condensed a 194 DACTYLIS — DIELYTRA. form as is furnished by the beautiful little leaves and bright flowers of these plants ; and, flowering with the first return of spring, they should have a place in every spring garden. Of course they are so small that they are not adapted for extensive beds or borders ; but for putting round the margins of small beds or vases that are placed below the eye, where they can be inspected, they are very interesting. They thrive best in dry gritty soil, and rather shady situations than otherwise. Wben removed from their blooming positions, they should either be potted or placed in light soil, where heavy rains can be warded oS them while at rest ; or where this cannot be accomplished, they can be kept in pots, placed in cold frames till the sever- ity of winter is over, and then plunged in their pots where they are required to bloom. The whole of the Cyclamens seed freely, and are remarkably easily raised in this way. The seed should be sown, when ripe, in light sandy soil, well enriched with leaf-mould. When fit to handle, they may be planted either in boxes or in a piece of prepared soil, where, with a couple of years' growth, they make flowering bulbs. Dactylis glomerata Tariegata (variegated Cock's-foot Grass). This summer favourite can also be made available for dwarf edgings in spring ; for in March, April, and May, in its fresh growing state, it is more delicate and chaste-looking than at any other period. The summer plants should be lifted, and divided as soon in autumn as ai-rangements for spring garden- ing can commence. By dividing it, and laying it in like a Box edging, where it is wanted for the spring, it gets hold before the severe weather sets in, and commences -to grow in spring, in time to look beautifully fresh and efiective with the elite of the garden. It wiU attaia to the height of 7 or 8 inches by the middle of May in ordinary springs, and in that state is most graceful ; and if arranged so as to remain for summer, the same plants will do without any further trouble; but if to be shifted, it moves perfectly well with balls in INIay and June. In planting it in autumn, it will thrive all the better if a little rich free soil be laid to its roots; and it should be rather deep than other%vise, and made firm in the soil. Dielytra eximia, 1 to Ih foot, reddish purple-- Jlay. Dielytra speotabilis, 2i"ind)es, rose and yellow— April and May. Dielytra speotabilis, 24 inclies, white and yellow— April and May. Except in early localities and favourable seasons, the blooming of these plants cannot be counted on till the beginning of May. DODECATHEON— "WINTER ACONITE. 195 But as they are plants of great beauty of foliage, I enumerate them as suitable for a panel or relieving plant, in sheltered positions. They are perfectly hardy, bear transplanting well,- and will grow in almost any soil. Their propagation is most easily effected by division ; but they strike very freely from cuttings when in a growing state in spring. The cuttings should be placed in a gentle heat, potted off when rooted, and planted out in May, when well hardened off. They are charm- ing mixed border plants. There is a variety called D. cucullaria, said to be very beautiful, but I have not seen it. Dodecatheon elegans (American Cowslip), 12 inches, rose and lilac — May and June. Dodecatheon integrifolium, 9 inches, rosy crimson — April and June. Dodecatheon Meadia, 9 inches, purple and lilac — April and June. Dodecatheon Meadia album, 9 inches, white — April and June. Besides these, there is one called D. Jeffreyanum, said to be very beautiful, but I have never seen it ; and it is yet, I believe, scarce. The varieties named, especially D. Meadia and D. elegans, are pretty plants both for beds and lines. They multiply rapidly, and can be extended by dividing them. They are generally considered not to do well except in a peaty soil ; but the finest lot of them that ever I saw was grown in very sandy soil, well enriched with rotten leaves ; and they are often found to thrive well in mixed borders where the soil is light and porous. When removed from the beds, they should be lifted with as much mould as possible attached to them, and laid in light soil into which a good proportion of leaf-mould should be mixed, where peat cannot be had ; and in the heat of summer they should have a mulching of half-decayed leaves or manure spread over them, to keep them in a medium state of moisture. Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite), 4 inches, yellow — Jan. and Feb. This little yellow harbinger competes with the Snowdrop for earliness. It is remarkably showy, producing its bright yellow circlets of blossom profusely, oftentimes among frost and snow. It is one of those plants which, like the Crocus and Snowdrop, can be planted close to the edges of beds, and left all through the summer, in which way it thrives much better than when removed every year. It is not, however, a plant that I should recommend to be much used for beds, as its beauty is over so early. Its proper place is in the mixed border or front of the shrubbery border, where it can be left undisturbed without any inconvenience. It makes strong roots, and it is easily increased 196 EEYTHRONIUM— EUONYMUS. by breaking them up into as many pieces as there are crowns to be found on them. The end of May or beginning of June is a good time to divide it, when it should be planted in rows, and treated to some light sandy soil about its roots. Erythroiiium americaniim, yellow — March and April. Brythronium dens-caiiis (Dog's-tooth Violet), 6 inches, March and April. Erythronium dens-canis album, white— March and April. Ei-ythronium dens-canis purpureum, purple— March and April Erythronium dens-canis roseum, rose — March and April. Beautiful and very interesting plants, with pretty flowers and spotted leaves, rendering them very distinct and orna- mental spring flowers ; and being dwarf and compact in growth, they are very useful for small beds and edgings. Like the Dodecatheon, they thrive well in peat, or any light sandy soil well enriched with rotten leaves. If the soil be heavy, a quantity of road-grit or coarse sand, and a large proportion of leaf -mould, should be mixed in with it ; and in planting, a little sand should be put about the bulbs, to prevent decay from excess of water. The two can be planted close to the edges of beds, and allowed to remain all summer like the Crocus ; and if so left, they increase with greater certainty than when frequently removed. They can be purchased cheaply, and should be planted as early in October as the beds can be got ready for them. Planted rather thickly in single rows, they make neat little edgings the first season ; and even when the flowers are past, the leaves are sufficiently pretty to be effective as an edging till they begin to decay. There is an improvement on E. purpureum called major, but I am not acquainted with it. The flowers are said to be larger and more effective. Euonymiis anrea variegatus, golden-leaved. Euonymus radicans variegatus, silver-foliaged shrubby plant. These are among the most lovely variegated, hardy, perma- nent edging plants in cultivation. They almost rival for effect the variegated Pelargonium, and can be made available for winter, spring, and summer. They bear trimming to keep them compact and neat, which, however, they naturally are. When sufficient stock can be had of them, they cannot fail to take a high position. They are not particular as to soU, thriving well in any ordinary garden soil well enriched with rotten leaves ; and are increased from cuttings in summer, under hand-glasses, in a mixture of finely-sifted leaf- mould and sand in about equal proportions. Firm cuttings, about FKITILLARIA — GALANTHUS. 197 3 or 4 inches long, are best. They can also be struck in heat in spring. Fritillaria Grown upon Crown, 2 feet, red — April to June. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial), 3J feet, red — April and May. Fritillaria imperialis foliis aureis, 3J feet, red — April and May. Fritillaria imperialis, silver-striped, 3 feet, red — April and May. Fritillaria latifolia, many varieties, 1 foot— April to June. Fritillaria meleagris, IJ foot, various— May and June. Fritillaria meleagris nigricans, IJ foot, purple and yellow— May and June. Fritillaria persica, 2 feet, brown and purple — April to June. Fritillaria prtecox, 1 foot, white — April to June. Fritillaria pudica, 6 inches, yellow— May. Fritillaria recurva, 1 foot, reddish — April and May. This flower is probably more stately and distinct in character than really beautiful. The tallest varieties are handsome and striking-looking plants, and the golden and silver foliaged are very ornamental. For back lines, or in mixed borders, they are well worthy of attention ; or planted at intervals among lower- growing plants in beds, they would be equally effective. They are all very hardy and easy to manage, increasing freely if left in the ground. Those in mixed borders, of course, can be left undisturbed for several years. They thrive well in rich sandy and deep soil. When purchased from tlie seedsmen, they should be planted not later than November ; and each bulb, when put in the ground, should be surrounded with a handful of sand. They are not very good plants to move before their growth is completed, and, if possible, a little soil should be lifted with each bulb ; and when laid in a shady place, they should be kept watered for a time. However, if planted in back lines and mixed borders, there will be less necessity for moving them often. Galanthus Elwesi (Snowdrop), 6 inches, white— January to March. Galanthus nivalis, 6 inches, white — January to March. Galanthus nivalis flore-pleno, 6 inches, white — January to March. Galanthus plioatus, 6 inches, white — January to March. This simple and elegant flower bursts upon the eye like "soothing strains upon the ear." It leads the van of Flora's treasures, and fills the mind with the hope of the bright pro- cession that is to spring from the womb of the new-born year. The Snowdrop — who does not love it, and look upon it with a kindly eye, as it peers through the brown grass or cold soil, and seems to thrive best with the breath of spring con- gealed upon its slender form ? We would advise all who have a lawn, ever so small, or grassy bank, to plant some Snowdrops ; and the edges of plantations, pleasure-grounds, or walks, can also be made cheerful with this elegant flower. They may be 198 GENTIANS — HEPATIC AS. planted in stars, crests, and numerous designs, by making holes 4 inches deep with a dibber, and dropping in a bulb or two. In this way they flourish remarkably ; and as the leaves get pretty well matured before mowing commences, they remain safe till another year. Few plants remove better ; and when planted as edgings or lines, they can be lifted, immediately they are done blooming, with balls, and be put in any out-of- the-way corner to mature themselves. They should be planted in October when thus removed ; but if put very near the edges of beds, they may be allowed to remain for a good many years without being moved. They are so hardy and well-doing, that they can be transplanted with success any time before they have fully expanded their flowers. The common single is the most efFectiv.e. G. plicatus is very dwarf. Gentiana acaulis, 6 inches, blue — Ajiril to June. Geiitiana verua, 4 inches, blue — April and May. Few plants are more charming than these — the common garden and spring Gentianella. They form dense tufts of dwarf foliage, studded over with brilliant blue flowers. G. acaulis thrives luxuriantly in rich loamy soil: indeed, the finest lot of it we ever saw was growing on a tenacious loam approaching to clay. It, however, must be freely exposed to the sun to bloom well ; and both varieties are beautiful plants for planting on moist places sloping to the sun. G. verna will grow most freely on a rich loam where there is no stagnant water, but, at the same time, plenty of moisture and depth of soil. Both will, however, do very well in the majority of garden soils that are not very hot and scorching. Neither of them will flower very freely if removed every year; and as they are excellent edging plants, it is well, if possible, to leave them in compact lines round the outer edges of the beds aU summer. If they are moved, it should be done immediately they have done flowering, and in patches, with balls to each patcli; and when planted again in autumn, care should be taken to lift the roots entire. In order to do this, it is best to plant them in rather fibry loam and leaf-mould, in which they will root freely, and which adheres well to the roots in autumn. In summer especially, G. verna should be well watered after being planted in the reserve ground. They are easily increased by division. Hepatica triloba, 6 inches, v.arious— February to April. Hepatica triloba, double and single blue. Hepatica triloba, double and single mauve. CHRISTMAS ROSE— HYACINTHS. 199 Hepatica triloba, double and single pink. Hepatica triloba, double and single red. Hepatica triloba, single white. The Hepatioas are very charming spring flowers, and, on account of their thriving and blooming on shady borders, where they never get any sun, are valuable for such positions. They are, moreover, among the very best plants we have for moving yearly with impunity, as they are so easily lifted with balls. They thrive best in a peaty soil, but in this respect are not particular, and generally do well in any garden soil that is free and moderately rich ; and they will bloom and look very beautiful in the partial shade of shrubs or trees, while at the same time they bloom well, but not so long, in open places. They are very easily increased by division, which should be done as early after they are done blooming as possible. When divided and planted, a little fresh soil, principally leaf-mould, or peat and sand, should be put to the roots of each patch, to start them away freely. If dry weather at the time, they should be watered, and their nursery beds should be in the shade. They are most serviceable for edgings and the fronts of mixed borders. There is one called H. angulosa, which I have not seen; said to be very fine — deep blue, with very large flowers. Helleborus abchasicus (Christmas Rose), 1 J foot, crimson — February to April. Helleborus colchious, IJ foot, red— February and March. Helleborus niger, 12 inches, pink — January to March. Helleborus olympicus, 15 inches, greenish white — March to May. This hardy and strong-growing genus of plants, which bloom sometimes in the depth of winter, is an old and well-known one. There have recently been raised some very showy and distinct hybrids, which cannot fail to be much grown when more numerous and better known. Among these are — Gretchen Heinemann, James Atkins, reds; of lighter hybrids, there are C. Senary and Herr Leichtlin. Few plants are more easily cultivated. They bear moving at any time ; and their bloom- ing season being very early, they can be moved to make way for later spring-flowering plants. They are easily multiplied by division. Hyacinths. This popular favourite is the chief of all the bulbs available for spring. The cheap rate at which it can now be purchased, and the ease with which it can be well if not superbly culti- vated, places it within the reach of all who possess a garden. 200 HYACINTHS. It is scarcely possible to estimate too highly the qualities of the Hyaciath as a spring flower. Whether as regards delicacy of colour or sweetness of perfume, it has few equals. The soil best suited for growing it well, is a rich, deep, light, loamy one, in which water cannot stagnate. Any ordinary garden soil that is not tenacious and wet, if deeply dug and well manured with decayed leaf -mould, or, what is better, old cow-manure, will grow the Hyacinth well. To bring its blooms to first-rate excellence, it requires a quantity of fresh loam, rotten manure, and sand mixed in; but, unless in very exceptional cases, such luxuries cannot be largely indulged in. In preparing a bed in the ordinary way for Hyacinths, trench it to the depth of 18 inches, putting in either of the manures named above, and thoroughly pulverise the soil in the process. Then mix it with the surface, and put a slight dressing of the same; and having levelled the bed, it is ready for the bulbs. If an early display is required, they should be planted immedi- ately the beds can be got ready, after the autumn flowers are removed; but for later blooming, November is early enough to plant. The soil should not have a foot set on it after it has been prepared, and consequently a board should be used to stand upon when the beds are too large to be planted without going on them. To produce an effective bed of Hyacinths alone, the bulbs should be planted not wider apart than 9 inches; but when the surface of the beds is to be carpeted over with any other low-growing plant, the bulbs may be put in at 12 inches apart, with very good effect. The crowns of the bulbs should be 3 to 4 inches, according to the size of the various kinds, beneath the surface of the bed, when all is levelled up and finished. Where the soil is at all inclined to be heavy, it is a good plan to surround each bulb with a handful of sand or road-grit. In severe winters it is advisable to cover the surface of the beds with some loose material, such as fern or long stable- manure. The covering should be removed as the shoots come through the ground. Unless they can be left in the beds un- disturbed to mature their growth, it is useless to plant the bulbs again, with the hope of a good display from them a second year. Indeed, varieties suitable for outdoor decoration can now be purchased so cheap, that it is scarcely worth the trouble to save the bulbs. If when in bloom they can be covered from wet and late frosts, they ^vill remain in beauty much longer than when exposed to all weathers. In planting CANDYTUFT — IRISES. 201 a bed of Hyacinths, we have a strong objection to mixing up a great variety of sorts in one bed, and think the effect pro- duced by planting a centre of one sort with a band of another much finer. And a very pretty effect is produced by covering the surface of the soil between them with nice green moss ; or the surface of the bed, where wide planting is practised, can be planted with some of the dwarfer- growing annuals; or with Cerastium, or any other low-growing plant, a very effec- tive dotted bed can be produced. Ilieris corifolia (Candytuft), 6 inches, "vvhite— March to May. Iberis coriecefolia, 9 inches, white— May and June. Iberis gibraltarica, 12 inches, white — March to May. Iberis saxatilis, 9 inches, white— March to May. Iberis senipervirens, 9 inches, white — March to May. These are probably the most effective white-flowering peren- nials that can be enumerated for early flowering. They are more of a shrubby character than ordinary perennials, and are very useful either for rockwork, baskets, or beds, and last a long time in bloom. They are, like the Alyssum, easily trans- planted with impunity; and the same plants can be used for years in succession. When removed from the beds in early summer, they should be heeled carefully in behind a wall, where the mid-day sun cannot reach them, and be watired if the weather is dry. They can be propagated in the same manner as recommended for Alyssum; but if hand-glasses or frames can be spared for them, all the better. The young plants are very neat as edging and line plants the first year after they are struck. The cuttings should be put in early, and immediately they are well rooted, planted into free rich soil, in which they make nice young plants before October. Iris fcetidissima foliis variegatis, 2 feet, striped foliage. Iris histrio, 15 to 18 Inches, purple— February and March. Iris persica, 6 inclies, various — April and May. Iri.s pumila, 9 inches, violet — April and May. Iris reticulata, 6 inches, purple — March and April. Iris Susiana, 2 feet, brown, netted with darli lines — April and May. The Iris is a beautiful genus of plants, but few of them bloom sufficiently early to mingle with the early spring flowers. I. persica is the earliest, and some of its varieties are very beautiful. The striped-foliaged one named above is a very ornamental plant, admirably adapted for back lines in ribbon borders, panels, and centres of large beds. It is tuberous- rooted, and bears transplanting very well ; only a ball of soil should be preserved with it when removed and it should be 202 GRAPE HYACINTHS — MYOSOTIS — NARCISSUS. planted in light ricli soil for the summer. It is easily increased by division. I. Susiana is a very distinct and remarkable- looking kind, and as it blooms early, would make a good plant for mixed borders and centres. It is also a tuberous-rooted variety, and increases by division. I. persica, being dwarf, is useful for edgings, and thrives best if the bulbs are left undisturbed for several years. I. pumila is a very pleasing colour and useful plant, easily increased by division. I. reticu- lata is a most unique little plant, and the wonder is that it is not more grown and attended to. It multiplies by increasing the numbers of its tubers. Mnscari botryoides (Grape Hyacinth), 9 inches, hlne — March and April. Muscari botryoides album, 9 inches, white — March and April. Muscari monstrosum, 12 inches, blue — April and May. Muscari nioschatum, 9 inches, blue and yellow — April and May. Muscari plumosum violaceum, 12 inches, violet blue — April and May. There is a great variety of this well-known plant; and though all are neat and beautiful, the above are the best. They are not, however, very good plants for beds, as they require staking, especially M. monstrosum, or it will be laid down with wet, as the heads of bloom hold the moisture in wet weather and be- come top-heavy. The best place for them in all respects is the mixed border, where they can remain undisturbed for years; for if Hfted frequently, they do not thrive well. They will grow well in almost anj' soil. Myosotis dissitiflora, 12 inches, blue — March and April. This beautiful species of Forget-me-not should be grown wherever very early flowers are an object. It sometimes flowers with the Snowdrop and Winter Aconite. It has brighter and larger flowers than the wood Forget-me-not, M. sylvatica. Like most of the Myosotises, M. dissitiflora requires a moist situation; and provided the drainage is good, it does well with a good supply of water. "When removed from the beds in summer, it should be planted in a moist shady place, and in dry weather well watered. It is increased by division. Narcissus albus plenus odoratus, white — JFarch and April. Narcissus bicolor, 12 iuobcs, yellow and white. Narcissus bitlorus, 12 inches, white and printrose. Narcissus Bulbocodium, 6 inches, golden yellow. Narcissus Campernelle, 12 inches, yellow. Narcissus incomparabilis, 12 inches, white and orange. Narcissus jonquilla (double), 12 inches, yellow. Narcissus jonquilla (single), 12 inches, yellow. Narcissus juncifolius, 6 inches, yellow. NARCISSUS— OMPHALODES — PHLOX. 203 Narcissus moscliatus, 6 inches, creamy wliite. Narcissus odonis, 12 inclies, yellow. Narcissus Orange Phoenix, ]2 inches, oranpe and cream. Narcissus poeticus flore-pleno, 12 inches, white. Narcissus pseudo-narcissus, 8 inches. Narcissus Tazetta (Polyanthus narcissus), various — ^April and May. Narcissus tenuifolius, 12 inches, golden yellow. Narcissus Trumpet-major, 12 inches, deep yellow. Those kinds known by the designation of Garden Narcissus are perfectly hardy, very showy, and some of them exceedingly fragrant; and all are plants strongly to be recommended for mixed borders. N. poeticus is particularly fragrant, and the same may be said of the Jonquil. JST. Bulbocodium and N. pseudo-narcissus, being dwarf, are very appropriate for front lines or edgings, and for rockwork. N. tenuifolius is par- ticularly rich in colour. The numbers of beautiful hybrids now becoming most fashionable are all charming spring flowers, and should be largely grown in every garden. The general treatment of the Narcissus is similar to that of the Hyacinth. When purchased from the nurserymen, they should be planted not later than the end of October. In mixed borders they do remarkably well, if allowed to remain undisturbed for several years. When used for beds, it is difficult to move them in time for the summer flowers, without their suffering from removal before they are fully ripe. It is, however, for mixed borders that we principally recommend them. The whole of the Poly- anthus narcissus are exceedingly showy in borders, and, with the exception of the Eoman variety, are suitable and very effective as border plants. Omphalodes verna, 6 inches, "blue — March and April. This pretty little plant has large brilliant blue flowers re- sembling a Forget-me-not, but in loose spikes. It is a plant that thrives well in dry shallow soil, provided it has a good proportion of leaf- mould mixed in with it. But perhaps its most appropriate place is in the rockwork, where it can have shade in summer. When used for beds, it should be in a shady position if possible; and when removed during summer, it should be placed in the shade. It is increased by dividing it into pieces after it is done flowering, and planting in a mixture of equal proportions light loam and leaf -mould. Phlox frondosa, 6 inches, white — April and May. Phlox Nelsonii, 6 inches, pink— April and May. Phlox reptans, 6 inches, dark rose — April and May. Phlox subulata, 6 inches, pink — April and May. 204 PEIMEOSES. These pretty dwarf Phloxes are well worthy of culture, being suitable either for small beds and baskets or edgings. _ They do in ordinary garden soil, and are increased by division. Primula amoena, 8 inches, purple— April and May. Primula auricula, 4 to 6 inches, various— April and May. Primula auricula alpina, 4 to 6 inche.s, various — April and May. Primula elatior (Polyanthus), 6 to 15 inclies, various— April and May. Primula vulgaris (acaulis) (Primrose), 6 inches— March to May. Primula vulgaris, single and double, crimson. Primula vulgaris, single and double, lilac. Primula vulgaris, single and double, pink. Primula vulgaris, single and double, purple. Primula vulgaris, single and double, whitt. Primula vulgaris, single and double, yellow. The whole of these are very charming spring flowers, and being so easily managed, may be classed among the flowers of the million. As has already been observed regarding the comparative merits of double and single flowers, the single varieties of the Primrose are most effective for massing. The single purple Primrose is a most effective bedding plant ; few can excel it in the same colour either among the spring or summer plants. P. auricula is what is generally known as the Dusty Miller, and, from the mealy appearance of its leaves, looks pretty and interesting anywhere. It is very dwarf, and well adapted for edgings or lines. Many of the Alpine species are very beautiful, but are still rather scarce and expensive to be had in quantity. The Primrose and Polyanthus should be grown extensively in heavy retentive soils, in which they thrive well, and continue much longer in bloom than on hot dry ones. All the varieties of both doubles and singles are very easily and rapidly increased by division. The early part of June is the best time to divide them. If necessary to increase stock quickly, they should be divided into as many pieces as there are crowns to each stool or plant, taking care to have a piece of root to each, if possible, although even rootless pieces can be used with success. The best place to plant them for the summer is behind a north wall where the sun never strikes them. They are natives of moist shady places, where the soil is generally heavy and tenacious. The beds for the young stock should be well manured with rotten cow-dung if it can be had. They wiU grow rapidly as soon as they get hold, and make nice plants for autumn planting. The single sorts can be easily increased from seed. The seeds should be saved, and sown separately on a moist shady border. RANUNCULUSES. 205 Ranunculus. — Turban Varieties. Black Turban, dark scarlet. Carmine. Crimson. Golden, bright yellow. Grandiflora, crimson spotted. Hercules, white. Merveilleuse, yellow. Orange. Romano, scarlet. Scarlet Dutch. Spotted golden. Turban d'Or, scarlet and gold. White. Yellow. For effectiveness in beds and lines, the Turban varieties are much to be preferred to the Persian varieties, although for compactness and symmetry, and general individual beauty, the latter must be admitted to be unrivalled by any other spring- flowering plant. At the same time, for effect in a flower-garden, they fall short of the Turban varieties. The time to plant them must be regulated by the time they are required to bloom. If required to bloom in April and May, the end of January or beginning of February is sufficiently early. To grow them to perfection, the soil requires to be good, rich, and loamy. Three or four inches of well-rotted manure should be trenched in to the depth of 18 inches ; and unless the natural soil be good, the top spit should have some fresh loamy soil forked into it, along with a little more manure. Manure of a cool nature is the best suited for the Ranunculus, and therefore cow-dung is preferable. The surface of- the bed should be well pulverised, and have the manure thoroughly mixed with it. The tubers should be planted 6 to 8 inches apart each way, and covered to the depth of 2 inches, being sure to place them firmly in the ground, with their claws downwards. It is a good plan to cover them with a little sand before levelling the soil over them. They require to be protected from severe frost ; and to this end, let the bed be covered over with litter or half-decayed leaves, which of course must be removed as soon as the plants begin to come thi'ough the ground in spring. As they make their roots near the surface, they are more subject than almost any other plant to suffer from drought in the spring months ; and careful attention in the way of watering is necessary, or their blooming season will be very short. When in bloom, an awning of canvas thrown over them when the sun is brightest, and during rains, will prolong their season, and their colour will be finer. As soon as the leaves become yellow, the roots should be taken up, dried, and stored in a dry airy place on shelves. If left in the ground to get much rain after the tops are ripe, they commence to make fresh roots ; and after doing so, they are never so strong and fine the following season. 206 SANTOLINA — SAXIFRAGES — SCILLA. Santolina incana, 6 to 12 inches ; silvery foliaged. To have this lovely plant in perfection for spring, cuttings should be struck in heat the previous spring ; and when well hardened off, planted in light rich soil, to grow throughout the summer. In this way it makes beautiful plants 4 to 6 inches in diameter, and close on the ground, and transplants well in autumn with balls, and forms very neat edgings the following spring and summer. To our muid, it is much the prettiest when in this young, fresh, and compact condition ; moreover, plants at this age move much better in autumn than older ones. Saxifraga granulata flore-plenOj 9 iticlies, white — March to May. Saxifraga pyramidalis, 1 foot, white — April and May. Saxifraga umbrosa, 1 inch, pink — April and May. These three Saxifrages make most beautiful beds. S. pyramidalis, from the compact way in which it throws up its pyramid of flowers, is well adapted for lines, but it should always be staked, or it will not bear up against wind and rains ; S. granulata flore-pleno makes a lovely bed or row ; and S. umbrosa is useful for the wonderful amount of bloom that it produces : it is well suited for edgings to walks in shady places. In spring it produces its bloom, which, when faded and removed, leaves the compact mass of foliage close to the ground. It is a plant that increases itself with great rapidity, every morsel of it forming a plant, just the same as Daisies. S. granulata flore- pleno, as its name denotes, has roots resembling corns of grain. It is increased by separating and planting these as soon as H has ripened its tops. They should be planted in rows in open rich soil ; and when removed in autumn, should be planted thickly in the beds, preserving some soil to the roots in the process. The Saxifrages are very numerous, and mostly aU pretty either in flowers or foliage. Many of those in the list of Alpine plants have very beautiful foliage, and can be used effectively in conjunction with spring-floweriag plants. Si'.illa alba, 12 inches, white — May. Scilla aracena, 6 inches, blue — March and April. Scilla bifolia, 3 inches, bine — !March and April. Scilla italica, 9 inches, blue — March and April. Scilla nutans, 10 inches, blue and white — April. Scilla peruviana, 12 inches, blue — May. Scilla prcBcox, 6 inches, blue — April and May. Si-iUa sibirica, 4 inches, blue — Miu-ch and April. Scilla verna, 6 inches, blue and white— April and May. These lovely gems are most beautiful spring bulbs, and deserving of more extensive cultivation. S. sibirica and S. amoena are unrivalled as dwarf blue plants for margins and SEMPEEVIVUM — STOCKS. 207 front lines, and for very small beds are invaluable. S. preecox and S. sibirica are admirable window plants in pots. A light sandy soil suits them best ; and planted for margins, they may be allowed to remain for several years without removal. When bought, they should be planted in October, about 3 inches deep ; and when the soil is heavy, they should be covered with light gritty soil, such as road-scrapings. Sempervivum Funckii. Sempervivum araclmoideum. Sempervivum arenarium. Sempervivum californicum, 2 inches. Sempervivum globiferum. Sempervivum montanum. Sempervivum fimbriatum. Lovely little plants, forming themselves into large dense green rosettes, each leaf of californicum being tipped with dark brown. They make a most lovely compact edging to small beds when planted closely, and thrive well in ordinary garden soil, and propagate themselves by forming small offsets round each plant, which, taken off and set in rich sandy soil, become nice plants 3 to 4 inches across in the season. They bear removal well. Stocks. East Lothian Intermediate, crimson, 12 to 15 inches. East Lothian Intermediate, purple, 12 to 16 inches. East Lothian Intermediate, scarlet, 12 to 15 inches. East Lothian Intermediate, white, 12 to 15 inclies. East Lothian Wall-leaved, "white, 10 inches. "Whether it be for autumn, spring, or early summer decor- ation, these Stocks rank amongst the very elite of flowering plants. Their purity of colour and abundance of bloom, together with their easy management, recommend them to all. Their treatment for autumn flowering has been already detailed. To have them in bloom in spring and early summer, the seed requires to be sown about the middle of May or first week in June. This is earlier than is generally practised ; but unless they are well-established plants before winter, they are too late in flowering to come in with the generality of spring flowers. The best place to sow is in a border of light, not very rich, soil, having an east or west aspect. As soon as they are 2 or 3 inches high, and before they become drawn, transplant them into beds, in rows about 6 iaches apart each way. Till they get a fresh hold of the soil, and begin to grow, they will be the better of being shaded and watered, should the weather 208 STOCKS — TULIPS. be bright and dry. By the middle of September they make strong stocky plants — in some cases showing bloom-buds — and will be tolerably thick in the beds. Every other plant should then be potted off into 5 and 6 inch pots, according to their size. For this purpose, equal proportions of loam and leaf- mould, with a sixth of the whole of sand, is best ; but those who cannot procure soil exactly of this description, will succeed very well with ordinary garden soil, mixing with it a little rotten dung and road-scrapings. When potted and watered, set them in a shady place, such as behind a wall or hedge, till they show the points of their white roots at the sides of the pots, — then they are ready to be fully exposed to the sun ; after which they require to be well supplied with water. Before severe frost sets in, they should be placed in cold frames when these are at command, plunging the pots in some open dry material, such as ashes or sawdust. They will winter very well without glass in cradles formed by running a board along each side, hooping over the space with rods, and pro- tecting with mats and dry litter in severe frost. When aU danger of severe frost is over, plant out in the beds where they are to bloom. In ordinary winters. Intermediate Stocks stand out all winter, especially in dry sheltered situations ; and those left in the beds at the time of potting can be removed early ia October to their blooming beds. If later than the time named, they do not get sufficient hold of the soil to enable them to stand the winter well. Of course, if lifted with balls, they have a great advantage ; but Stocks do not make very fibrous roots, and are difficult to transplant with balls. In all cases where the -winters are generally severe, it is much the safest to lift and pot a quantity to meet contingencies ; and any extra care bestowed on them through the winter will be amplj' rewarded by splendid beds in spring and early summer. The varieties recommended always bloom best in the cool of the autumn, and are frequently fine till well on in December ; and after that date, those who can place them in heat can lift in bloom the old plants in spring with success. TnLH-s. Single Varitties. Belle AUinncp, 8 in., crimson scarlet. I Canary Bird, 8 inches, yellow— April Brutus, 9 iuclios, golck'n yellow and and May. rod. ' Clirysolora, S inches, golden yellow. TULIPS. 209 Cottage Maid, 6 inches, rose pink, white stripe. Couleur Cardinal, 8 inches, crimson. Due van Thol, 4 inches, scarlet. Duo van Thol, 4 inches, white. Duo van Thol, 4 inches, yellow. Globe de Rigaut, 7 inches, violet and "white. Kaizerskroon, 6 inches, yellow and red. Pax alba, 7 inches, pure white. Pottebakker, 10 inches, yellow, scarlet, and white. Proserpine, 9 inches, rose. Queen Victoria, 6 inches, white. Rosa mundi, 6 inches, white, bordered with red. Royal Standard, 8 inches, white, striped crimson. Silver Standard, 6 inches, white. Sunbeam, G inches, scarlet. Thomas Moore, 8 inches, orange. Vermilion Brilliant, 6 inches, ver- milion scarlet. Waterloo, 8 inches, crimson. Yellow Prince, 8 inches, bright yellow. Double Varieties. Peeony Gold, 8 inches, golden yellow, feathered crimson. Prince of Wales, 9 inches, crimson. Purple Crown, 8 inches, crimson. Rex rubrorum, 8 inches, dark crimson. Salvator Rosa, 9 inches, light rose. Tournesol, 6 inches, scarlet and yellow. Yellow Rose, 8 inches, golden yellow. Yellow Tournesol, 6 inches, yellow. Blanc horde pourpre, 8 inches, violet purple — May. Couronne des Roses, 8 inches, white. Due van Thol, 6 inches, red, margined yellow. Imperator rubrorum, 6 inches, scarlet. La Candeur, 6 inches, white. Le Blason, 9 inches, white, striped rose. Mariage de ma Fille, 10 inches, white, striped violet. In making the above selection of Tulips, the object has been to combine distinctness of colour with dwarf stiff habit of growth, as being most effective, and otherwise suitable for masses and lines. Tulips rank among the most showy and valuable of bulbs for both indoor and border decoration. The ease with which they can be cultivated, their hardiness, and the low rates at which suitable varieties for beds can now be purchased, recommend them to all, and more especially to the amateur, who requires his borders gay in spring at a minimum of expense and labour. They require treatment very similar to that recommended for Hyacinths. The beds intended for them should be deeply dug or trenched, and well pulverised ; and if they have been previously kept in good condition as to manuring and richness, a little leaf- mould is all that need be applied in autumn. If the soil is naturally retentive, a greater proportion of leaf-mould should be mixed in ; and if road- scrapings, or any light sharp soil, can be mixed in with the surface spit, it will be very beneficial, as Tulips thrive best in an open soil, from which water passes quickly away. The planting should be performed before the middle or end of October, if possible. They will be much benefited by a hand- ful of fresh sandy soil round each bulb. The generality of them, when required in masses, without any groundwork com- posed of dwarf annuals, ifcc, should be planted 6 inches apart Q Missing Page PANSIES. 211 The Pansy Section. Adonis, purple. Caiiaix yellow. Clieveden Blue, ligTit lilue. Crossflat Rival, blue. Golden Bedder, yellow. Imperial Blue, 8 inches, deep blue. Pioneer, white. Princess of Wales, 6 inches, blue. Triumph, mauve, purple blotch. White Queen, 6 inches, white. White Swan, white. Those who have never witnessed the display that can be produced with these varieties of Pansies, can form very little conception of it. I am not certain that any other plants could be named that will produce such an amount of bloom at any season, in April and May particularly. The way to have these in perfection for large beds in spring is to propagate in September, and plant out in March. Where the soil and climate are moist, they bloom well nearly the whole summer, and about October it will be found that they throw up a mass of fine fresh young growths from the centres of the plants. The summer-flowering growths should then be all cut away, the plants lifted with balls, and planted where they are wanted to bloom in spring. In this way they make splendid plants, and bloom most profusely. They do not, managed thus, give so much flower through the winter months as younger plants propagated early, either by division of the older plants or from cuttings in spring. If the plants are lifted carefully at the end of May or early in June from the flower-garden, and laid in free rich soil in a shady place, cutting away all the more exhausted parts, and keeping them watered occasionally for a time, they soon begin to recruit their energies. They can, in July, be divided into as many pieces as can be had with roots, and planted fully deeper than they were before in free rich soil. They are very fond of well- rotted hotbed manure, and it should be applied freely, if fine healthy plants are to be produced. Planted thus, and kept watered and in a shaded situation, they form plenty of fine fresh cuttings by the month of August, which root freely under hand-glasses in sandy soil. But those who have not even a hand-glass can root them behind a north wall, where the sun does not reach them. These cuttings root quickly, and will be ready for putting out into beds to grow a while before the borders where they are to bloom can be got ready for them. If they can be planted in October, all the better; but they can be planted with success, and without much check, up till Christmas, when the weather is mild. Still it is best to plant before the end of November at the latest. The larger divided 212 PANSIES — SWEET VIOLETS. plants can be used for beds, and the young plants from the cuttings for lines and edgings: all of them will make a fine show in spring. The varieties named seed freely, and if sown separately will produce young plants resembling, in the majority of instances, the parents — particularly Yellow Prince. If the seed is so'wn about the end of June, the young seedlings make fine strong plants to plant at the usual time. In planting them in the beds, all the shoots that are longer than the others should be laid down into the ground ; and in all cases deep planting is to be recommended. They are kept steady in the ground, and they root freely at the joints. The soil in which they do best for spring blooming is a rather sandy loam, well enriched with manure — although they are by no means particular, and thrive fairly in any common garden soil that is not absolutely poor or sandy, or too retentive. Viola odorata (Sweet-scented Violets) ; various. Few neglect the culture of these sweet flowers, and a nook should always be devoted to them in the flower-garden, where ladies and gentlemen can conveniently pick a few fresh blooms when they feel disposed. There are now numerous varieties of various shades of colour. Probably the old single and double Russian Blue and the White are the hardiest, and the Neapolitan the sweetest. But in sheltered situations under walls, where a few evergreen boughs can be placed over them during severe frost, most of the varieties do very well. Maria Louisa is very early; the Czar is hardy, and larger than the Russian ; Comte de Brazza, with its double-white flowers, is very beautiful and sweet; and King of Violets is a very handsome and large double blue. When they have made fresh growths in April and May, a piece of ground, such as a west border, should be well manured with leaf-mould, and if heavy, have some sand and light loamy soil mixed in with the top 6 inches. The runners should then be raised with a fork, and the most compact and j'oungest that have a root to them selected and planted 8 inches apart each way. A slight shading for a few days after planting is necessary; and throughout the summer they ought not to be allowed to suffer for want of water. The runners, which they — especially some of the varieties — will produce in quantity, if allowed, should be pinched ofT as they appear. In this way HAKDY SPKING-I'LOWEEING SHEUBS. 213 they make fine plants for planting by the end of September, and will bloom more or less according to the weather, but most profusely in spring, up to the middle of May. Havdy Spring -jlow&'iTig Shrubs, suitable for Beds and Shrubbery Borders, and that thrive best in peaty soils, but succeed very well in u, compost such as is described for Rhododendrons. "e " are evergreen, " d " are deciduous. £ Feet. Colour. Time of Flowering. Andromeda caasinifolia, . H White. June. E Andromeda floribunda, . 2 or 3 White. May and June. E Andromeda polifolia (various), 1 Pink. Do. E Andromeda pulveruleuta, H White. June. E Andromeda tetragona, 6 to 9 in. /White, ting-t \ ed red. / March & April. Azalea mollis, .... 3 to 4 Various. May and June. D Azalea pontica(many varieties, \ some fi-agrant), / 4,0 Various. Do. D D D Azalea nudiflora, {f^^y^.f?-^-] Azalea speciosa J g^^^l^fV^H Azalea viscosa, \«^r,*fl™ J 2 or 3 Various. Do. E Erica austialis, .... 3,4 Pink. April to June. E Erica carnea (lierbacea), 1 Red. January to May. E Erica ciliaris, . 1 Pink. April and May. B Erica codonoides, 8 Red. Do. Erica lierbacea, 1 Pale red. March. E Erica mediterranea, . Erica mediterranea alba. Erica mediterranea glauca. Erica mediterranea nana. Erica mediterranea rubra. 3,4 Red. March to May. E Kalmia angustifolia (various), . 1, 2 Pink and red. May to July. E Kalmia glauca, . 1, 2 Pink. April and May. E Kalmia latifolia, 2, 3 Flesh-coloured E Ledum decumbens, . 2 White. May. E Ledum latifolium, . 2,3 White. April and May. E Ledum palustre. 2 White. Do. E Ledum thymifolium, G in. to 1 ft. Wl.ite. May. D Rliodora canadensis. Rhododendron Species. 2 to 4 Pale purple. April and May. Rhododendron atrovirens, 1 Purple. March. E Rhododendron Catawbiense \ (various), / Rhododendron caucasicum, 4 toe Purple white. April and May. E n Straw & pink. April. E Rhododendron Dauricum, 3,4 Pale purple. Dec. to May. E Rhododendron Dauricum atro- \ virens, f 3 to 6 Bright purple. Do. E Rhododendron ferrugineum \ (various), / 2, 3 Red. June E Rhododendron Govenianum . 1 or 2 Fragrant. Do. E Rhododendronhirsutum varie- \ gatum, / / Golden varie- 1 gated. E Rhododendron hirsutum (vari- 1 ous), f 2 to 4 / Red, of vari- \ \ ous shades. / Do. E Rhododendron maximum, 6 to 10 Purple white. Do. E Rhododendron odoratum, lor 2 Fragrant. Do. 214 RHODODENLIKONS — SELECT LIST. Rhododendrons— Hybeidised Vabietiks. L Early Varieties flowering from the beginning of Fehruary to the middle of May. Albertus (various), various tints, white to pink. Altaclarense, scarlet. Augusta van Geert, purple. Blanc Superb, white. Brilliant, crimson scarlet. Broughtonianum, rosy lilac. Caucasicum pictum, blush, crimson spots. Comet, fiery crimson. Coriaceum, white. Eclipse, crimson. Florence Nightingale, light pink. Gloire de Gand, white, spotted. Grand Arab, scarlet. Iguescens, scarlet. Jacksonii, light rose. Limbatum, blush, tordered with crimson. Mirabile, deep rose. Nobleanum album, blush white. Nobleanum (various), damask crimson. Praecox, rosy purple. RusseUianum (various), bright crim- son. Sir Walter Scott (various), pink to rose. Vestitum coccineum. Vesuvius, crimson scarlet. Victorianuui, scarlet. IL Medium Varieties flowering in May, Alarm, scarlet, white centre. Albion, rosy red, spotted. Album elegans, white. Ale.xander Adie, scarlet. Amethystinum, blush, tipped with puce. Archimedes, crimson. Barclayanum, bright crimson. Beauty of Surrey, rosy scarlet. Blandyanum, rosy crimson. Blandyanum superbum, brilliant cerise. Blatteimi (Sir Isaac Newton), dark purple. Brayanum, scarlet. Bylsianum, liglit red, pale centre. Congestum roseum, deep rose. Corregio, dark scarlet, Curreanum, lilac purple. Delicatissimum, pale pink, fading into white. Due de Brabant, white. Elfrida, deep rose. Everestiauum, rosy lilac. Fastuosum ilore-pleno, lilac, large truss. Faust, rosy lilac. Fleur de Marie, rosy crimson with white blotch. Genseric, dark claret. Gloriosum, white, red spots. Hendersonii, rosy crimson. Henry Drummond, purplish crimson. Hugh Fraser, purple. lago, rosy crimson. Ingramii, blush white, with spots. Lady Dorothy Neville (Standard of Flanders), purple, spotted. Lady Easthope, clear rose, dark spots. Lady Eleanor Cathcart, clear rose, spotted like a Geranium. Lady Gordon, white, yeUow spots. Lord Clyde, blood. Lord Eversley, dark crimson. Lord John Russell, pale rose, dark spots, Lorenzo, white, yellow eye. Lucifenim, white. Mammoth, deep rich red. Mrs Hemans, white, shaded pink. Ne plus ultra, purple, light centi'C. Neige et cerise, white and red. Nero, dark rosy purple, spotted. Omar Pacha, purplish crimson. Ornatum, dark scarlet. Paxtonii, like Lady E. Cathcart ; fine foliage. Perspicuum, milky white. Pictum, white, buff spot. Ruth, blush white, finely spotted. Schiller, blue, shading into purple. Sir Cliarles Napier, rose, spotted. Stamfordiauum, claret, black blotch. The Gem, white, striped pink. Towardii, rosy lilac. Zuleika, delicate blush. III. Late Varieties blooming mostly in June. Alexander Adie, brilliant rosy scarlet, i Butlerianum, white, bold flower. Baroness Lionel de Rothschild, crim- Candidissimum, white ; perhaps tlu sou. I finest. RHODODENDRONS. 215 Caraotacus, ricli purplish crimson. Charles Dickens, dark scarlet. Colonel, deepest crimson ; late. Concessum, deep rose, light centre, H. W. Sargent, crimson. Helen Waterer, rosy crimson, pale centre. John Gair, crimson. John Spencer, rose, margined with pink. Joseph Whitworth, dark lake. Lady Egremont, deep rosy pink and red. Leopardii, rosy lilac, red spots. Lord John Russell, rose. Maculatum nigrum superhum, purple, dark spots ; very late. Marguerite, white, washed with lilac. Michael Waterer, bright crimson scarlet. Minnie, white, chocolate spots. Mr John Waterer, bright carmine. Mrs John Clutton, white. Mrs John Waterer, bright rose, spotted. Mrs Standish, pure white, brownish spots. Mrs William Bovill, rich rosy scarlet. President Van den Hecke, crimson. Purity, white, faint yellow eye. Purpureum magnificum, purple. Satanella, rosy red. Standish's Perfection, pale peach, ochre spots. Star of England, pale, pinkish white ; large. Stella, pale rose, chocolate blotch on upper petal. The Grand Arab, crimson. The Maroon, chocolate. The Queen, mauve. Vandyck, bright red, William B. Gladstone, crimson. Many more varieties miglit be added to each of these sections. Those under the first head, having a large infusion of the blood of E. arboreum, campanulatum, and caucasicum, flower early, and their blooms are often destroyed by the spriag frosts. They can hardly be dispensed with, and may be associated with spring gardening. Besides, some of them grown in large pots or tubs afibrd useful ornamentation in the conservatory. The later varieties under heads II. and III. have had E. ponticum and Catawbiense for their female parents. They are perfectly hardy as shrubs, but sometimes the blooms of Class II. suffer a nip from the dry frosts towards the end of May. Group III. cannot be too strongly commended, particularly the white varieties, which are extremely efi'ective in the decoration of shrubberies. The Sikkim and Bhotan Ehododendrons, from which so much was at one time expected, are scarcely suited to the outdoor climate of Britain, unless in the mildest localities where they can have peat soil. Even where they survive the winter, they seldom form flower-buds. The following have bloomed occasionally in the open air near Edinburgh — E. glaucum, ciHatum, fulgens, Thomsonii, and perhaps some others. Pro- bably, if they were treated like Camellias, much might be effected with them. E. Edgeworthii, Dalhousii, Jenkinsii, Madennii, Aucklandii, Nuttallii, &c., form admirable greenhouse and conservatory plants. The foregoing lists of Ehododendrons have been looked -over by men who are well acquainted with the very numerous 216 RHODODENDEONS. varieties of this beautiful hardy flowering shrub ; and such have been selected as are first-rate, in every respect, for a select and limited collection. There are many newer varieties which are very fine, but still so high in price as to prevent their being popular. Those who wish to know about these can refer to the catalogues of the nurserymen who grow them. There is not another flowering shrub that deserves or wiU repay attention so well as the Rhododendron. It is magnificent beyond all rivals when in bloom, while few evergreens excel it as such at any season of the year. To grow them in the highest perfection there is no doubt that a peaty soil is best ; but let not this debar any from attempting to cultivate so splendid a flower. I have seen them succeed well on almost any soil, from a heavy clayey loam to a light sandy soil, provided there is no lime or chalk in its composition. They will not only not do well iji limy soils, but in some cases will literally die out altogether in course of years. All who can procure a peaty soil should of course do so ; and now that railways have opened up almost every tract of country in the kingdom, peat is much more easily and cheaply procured by those who are remote from peaty localities. But the employment of peat in the culture of Ehododendrons, though highly desirable, is not necessary. Rhododendrons may be, and are, grown well without a particle of it. In some localities there naturally exists a light silky loam, which suits Rhododendrons remarkably well, especially after a considerable proportion of well-decayed vegetable matter, such as leaf- mould, or the vegetable rot -heap which exists about most gardens, has been mixed with it. But where a compost has to be entirely made up for Rhododendrons, and peat is not attainable, then a different course must be followed. This becomes necessary where the soil is either a hard impenetrable clay, or a poor hungry soil, which is too dry for such a moisture- loving plant as this. To prepare beds or borders for Rhodo- dendrons under such circumstances, the first thing to do is to remove the unsuitable soil to the depth of about 18 inches or 2 feet, and in clayey soils to see that the drainage is good ; for though fond of moisture, stagnant water about the roots is highly injurious. Into the bottom of gravelly hot soils 6 inches of a heavy loam may be put with advantage, in as far as it will help to secure a cool subsoil. The staple may be composed of loam, turfy material from the sides of highways or ditches or hedges, well-decayed leaves, and a little thoroughly rotten cow- KHODODENDKONS. 217 dung. Indeed, any thoroughly decomposed vegetable refuse which can be brought together, such as old very rotten tan and the substances already named, and thrown into a heap, to be turned over and mixed with as much sand as will make it sparkle — such as sand and chips from a freestone quarry — all thoroughly incorporated, will grow Ehododendrons and other American plants in a very satisfactory way. What is required most is a soil loose, rich, and capable of holding moisture without being stagnant, which beds made in clayey soils are subject to, although cold clay subsoils are much more favour- able than hot gravelly ones. Ehododendrons may be moved and planted any time when at rest — that is, when not in bloom or making growth ; but October is the most desirable time for planting. The first summer after being planted, the surface of the soil should be mulched with half-decayed litter, such as leaves, in order to prevent evaporation, and to keep the roots cool and moist ; and during dry weather a heavy watering occasionally of pond- water will be of great benefit. When the plants show signs of weakness in such compositions, they should have a top-dressing of some rich compost spread over the beds, such as cow-manure and loam, in equal proportions ; and as they bear removal with impunity, they can be lifted at intervals of years, and some fresh rich compost added to the soil, and then replanted. Plants with clear stems of a foot or two from the ground always flower better than low bushes ; and in the northern and colder parts of the kingdom it is a mistake to plant American plants in shaded situations. They set their buds and bloom much better when exposed to the sun. In hotter districts, a dell not overhung with leaves, but having a north aspect, is the most suitable ; and to look down on American plants in June in such a situation is a sight worth a struggle to produce, especially when standard plants of striking colours are inter- spersed among the dwarfs, giving light and shade and relief. A mixture of deciduous or other less formal shrubs, -judiciously interspersed, rather improves the efiect of Ehododendrons at all times. Any one who has seen the fine displays annually produced in London under canvas, will not easily rid his mind of the grandeur of the Ehododendron as a decorative plant. 218 CHAPTER XIV. DECIDUOtrS HAEDY SPEING - FLOWERING SHBTJBS, SUITABLE FOE BEDS AND SHEUBBEEY BOEDEES, ETC. Although our primary object in this work has been to treat of what is generally termed and understood as the flower-garden proper, we hope it may prove useful to many of our readers who are unacquainted with flowering shrubs, and deciduous spring-flowering shrubs in particular, to append a list of the most useful and beautiful of them, which generally flower in early spring, and onwards to the end of May. Some of the best of the dwarfer-growing varieties are very suitable for beds, and might be so used with advantage where spring variety is an object. All of them are excellent for planting in shrubberies, and are relieved by, and give relief to, their more sombre evergreen rivals. Deciduous spring -flowering shrubs do not generally receive that amount of care and good culture ■which their merits deserve. Their delicate tints when in flower, and more graceful and airy appearance as compared with evergreens — beautiful and useful as the latter are — de- mand more attention; and were the same amount of culture and care bestowed on them which has been deservedly bestowed on evergreen shrubs and conifers, they would well repay all that could be done for them. They bloom at a time when the surroundings of the spring garden are more tame than those of the autumn garden, which latter season brings with it all "the gorgeousness of varied tints in fruits and foliage; and even heavy and splendid masses of evergreens, which form the boundaries of flower-gardens, would look all the richer and less gloomy were they lightened up with a due proportion of the more abundant flowering deciduous shrubs, which generally do well in most localities and soils. The following list com- prises a very effective selection. SPEING-FLOWEKING SHEUBS. 219 Deciduous Hardy Spring-flowering Shrubs, suitable for Beds and Shruhhery Borders,