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Cornell University Library 
 
 arV17503 
 Advanced metal-work. 
 
 3 1924 031 304 326 
 olin.anx 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031304326 
 
WORKS OF 
 PROFESSOR ALFRED G. COMPTON 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 JOHN WILEY & SONS. 
 
 Manual of Logarithmic Computations. 
 
 With numerous examples, being introductory to 
 the Study of Logarithms. i2mo, cloth, Si. 50. 
 
 First Lessons in Metal Working. 
 
 i2mo, cloth, $1.50. 
 
 The Speed-lathe. 
 
 Being Part I of Advanced Metal Work. i2mo, 
 cloth. 
 
ADVANCED METAL-WORK. 
 
 LESSONS ON THE SPEED-LATHE, ENGINE- 
 LATHE, AND PLANINQ-MACHINE. 
 
 FOR TEE USE OF TEGHNICAL SCHOOLS, 
 
 MANVAL-TBAININO SCHOOLS. 
 
 AND AMATEURS. 
 
 IN THREE PARTS. 
 
 PART I. THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 BY 
 
 ALFRED G. COMPTON 
 
 AND 
 
 JAMES H. DE GEOODT. 
 
 FIRST EDITION. 
 
 FIHST THOUSAND. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 JOHN WILEY & SONS. 
 
 London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limitbd. 
 
 1898. 
 K 
 
Copyright, 1898, 
 
 BT 
 
 A. G. COMPTON AND J. H. DE GROODT. 
 
 EOBBBT DBrMHOND, PRINTBB, NBW TORE, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The lessons in lathe-work and planer-work here 
 set forth represent pretty closely the course of 
 instruction in this subject which an experience of 
 thirteen years has developed in the College of the 
 City of New York. The mechanical course in 
 this college is a five years' course (including a 
 preparatory or sub-freshman year), collegiate in 
 character, like the other courses, and leading to 
 the degree of Bachelor of Sciences. To the work- 
 shop and the laboratory is given an average of 
 four hours a week throughout the five years. 
 These lessons represent the work of the sopho- 
 more year, four hours a week, and the junior year, 
 three hours a week, or, deducting holidays, about 
 two hundred and thirty-eight hours in all. The 
 greater part of the exercises, except those expressly 
 described as extra tasks given for the purpose of 
 imparting facility, are performed by all the stu- 
 dents of the class,* though a few are divided 
 among them in such a way that some perform one 
 
 * In Pgjt I, exercises 14, 15, and 36 to 39 are such. 
 
 tii 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 exercise or one part of an exercise, while others 
 are performing another, all the operations, how- 
 ever, being, in such cases, watched and under- 
 stood by all. The lessons represent, therefore, 
 about what a student who has had good training 
 in mathematics and drawing and in elementary 
 wood-woik and metal-woik may be expected to 
 do in the time named. 
 
 While these lessons are not intended to dis- 
 pense with the watchful eye and the helpful hand 
 of an instructor, they are designed to fuinish to 
 the student such explicit directions that he shall 
 be able, in most cases, to do the work well if he 
 will follow the diiections exactly. The authors 
 believe that the mechanical skill alone which a 
 course of manual training imparts is only a part, 
 and not even the most valuable part, of the train- 
 ing which the workshop and laboratory can give : 
 the power of intelligent reading and of accurate 
 and orderly description is equally important, and 
 so is the power of foreseeing the difficulties that 
 will arise in the course of a given operation and 
 of devising means to evade or overcome them. 
 These powers it is hoped that these lessons may 
 help to impart. 
 
 The College op the City op New Yoke, 
 August 8th, 1898. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preface iii 
 
 LESSON 
 
 I. Pakts op the Lathe. Carb and Management of 
 
 THE Lathe and Tools 1 
 
 II. Starting and Stopping. Calculating the Speed.. 10 
 
 III. Centring and Mounting Work. Plain Turning 
 
 WITH the Gouge 14 
 
 IV. Turning Concave and Convex Surfaces with the 
 
 Chisel 23 
 
 V. Chuck work 33 
 
 VI. Pattern-making ., 43 
 
 VII. Brass TURNING 58 
 
 VIII. Wood-turning. Gouge-work 90 
 
 IX. Oval Turning 98 
 
 X. Metal-spinning and Burnishing 103 
 
 XI. Special Tools and Appliances 108 
 
 XII. Underhand Cutting with the Gouge 113 
 
 XIII. The Cojjpound Rest 133 
 
 Alphabetical Index 131 
 
 V 
 
ADVANCED METAL-WOEK. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 THE SPEED-LA THE. 
 
 LESSON I. 
 
 PARTS OF THE LATHE. CAEE AND MANAGEMEl^T 
 OF THE LATHE AND TOOLS. 
 
 As you stand facing the lathe you have at the 
 left (Fig. 1 ) the head-stock A , with the belt running 
 on the cone, JB, giving motion to the 
 live-spindle O. DB are bearings and 
 journals of the live-spindle, and F is the spur- 
 centre. At your right is the tail-stock G, with the 
 dead-spindle H, the tail-pin I, and the handle J of 
 the spindie-screvp, which moves the dead-spindle in 
 or out. Between the head-stock and the tail-stock 
 is the hand-rest, on which the cutting-tool rests. 
 All these parts are fastened to the shears L, which 
 are the straight and parallel guides, on the bed M. 
 To these shears the head-stock is clamped by bolts 
 
TEE 8PEED-LATEB. 
 
 O, holding it fixed, while the tail-stock and hand- 
 rest are fastened by clamps P, which can be easily 
 
 
 loosened, allowing these parts to be placed at 
 pleasure. 
 
CABE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE. 3 
 
 All parts of the lathe, but especially the bright 
 parts, should be wiped off clean after using. 
 Tools, pieces of metal and work should never be 
 laid on the shears, lest these be thus bruised or 
 nicked. 
 
 The. belt must be kept straight and free 
 from twist to insure its running well. To this 
 end, at the close of the day's work oareofthe 
 it should be carefully folded and ^^^t- 
 wrapped around the head-stock in such a way 
 as to keep it flat. When in use it is found 
 to run best with the smooth side towards the face 
 of the cone or pulley. The smooth side is the side 
 on which the hair was. In the process of tanning 
 the skin and removing the hair, and thus converting 
 the skin into leather, the oily substance at the root 
 of each hair is destroyed, leaving in this smooth-fin- 
 ished side numberless little cavities or holes. If this 
 side, which is also the weaker, is turned toward the 
 face of the cone or pulley, as at a, Fig. 2, these 
 pords or cracks are closed ; thus a better contact is 
 insured, with greater friction, the belt is more 
 easily curved around a small pulley and made to 
 touch its whole width, and it will transmit more 
 power before slipping. With the rough or flesh 
 side of the belt towards the pulley, as at h, the 
 reverse is true : the ci'acks tend to open more and 
 more, weakening the belt and finally breaking it. 
 
 Above the lathe is a counter-shaft which receives 
 
4 THE aPBBD-LATBE. 
 
 motion from the main shaft. On the main shaft is 
 fixed a pulley, and on the counter-shaft are two, 
 each of half the width of this one. Examining 
 
 Shafts and 
 pulleys. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 either the counter-shaft overhead or a similar one 
 mounted as a model in a convenient place, you will 
 find that one of the two pulleys is firmly attached 
 to the counter-shaft by a set-screw, while the other 
 is loose, so that if the belt from the 
 main shaft to the counter-shaft is on 
 the fast or tight pulley it will drive the 
 counter- shaft, while if it is on the loose pulley it 
 will leave the counter-shaft at rest. 
 
 Notice the cones and the small pulleys on your 
 lathe and counter-shaft and you will find them 
 "crowned," or the surfaces high in the middle. 
 When a pulley revolves the centrifugal force tends 
 to throw out anything that is on it, as you have 
 already observed in oiling your machine. Thus 
 the belt also as it revolves creeps up from a small 
 diameter to a larger one. When the surface of a 
 pulley or cone is made curved or high in the mid- 
 
CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF TEE LATSE. 5 
 
 die, each half of the belt tends to climb towards 
 the high side, just as two belts running side by 
 side would, thus keeping the belt at the middle of 
 the pulley. Pulleys used for shifting belts (gen- 
 erally the driving-pulleys) have flat faces, while 
 those used as driven pulleys, such as the " cones " 
 of lathes, have crowned or curved faces. The 
 " crowning " of pulleys is theoretically wrong, since 
 it prevents the belt from pressing equally on all 
 parts of the surface, and it would not be necessary 
 if the shaft could be kept perfectly in line and the 
 belts were perfect. 
 
 Both centres are frequently removed from the 
 spindles. The live-spindle often has a hole 
 bored through its whole length, and in 
 
 1 . 1 . .1 T Exercise 1. 
 
 this case the centre is easily removed Removing 
 by passing through the hole a piece of "^^ repiac- 
 round iron and driving the centre out "^^ °^" ^^^' 
 by gentle blows of the hammer. The dead- 
 centre or tail-centre is sometimes removed by 
 the action of the tail- _^.^==^ 
 
 screw. When the screw is \c ' ""' ~- ^r : ^> 
 
 turned so as to draw back 
 
 the spindle in which the ^ '""'^^^^^^ 
 
 dead-centre is inserted, the I . „ . -^- . Ji ^ 
 
 point of the screw comes ^**- ^• 
 
 in contact with the base of the centre and 
 pushes it out. Both in this case and in the last, 
 the base of the centre being subjected to frequent 
 
6 TBE SPESD-LATHE. 
 
 pressure or blows, it is likely to become upset or 
 enlarged. It should therefore be turned for a 
 small part of its length, not exceeding ^ in. at 
 the end, a little smaller, so that if it is thus enlarged 
 it may not fit too tight and thus score or scratch 
 the inside of the spindle. 
 
 The dead-centre has in some cases a hole drilled 
 through it perpendicular to its axis into which a 
 steel pin can be inserted. It is then easily re- 
 moved by turning it by means of the pin. When 
 no special provision is made for removing the 
 centre, whether live or dead, a copper hammer 
 (not a steel one) should be held under it, and 
 then with a hammer and drift or dull chisel it 
 should be jarred loose by gentle taps against its 
 shoulder. 
 
 There is but one correct way of inserting a cen- 
 tre in its spindle. First see that the centre and 
 the hole in the spindle are perfectly clean, and if 
 there are any nicks or scratches, even slight ones, 
 remove them with an old smooth file. Put the 
 centre into the hole and push and turn it in 
 its place, but never drive it. Driving the centre 
 is apt to make it hold so tight that blows 
 are required to remove it, and both actions are 
 likely to injure the lathe. A chalk-line drawn 
 along the whole length of the centre will gener- 
 ally keep it from slipping; if it does not the 
 fit is imperfect, and it should be refitted as 
 
CABE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE. 7 
 
 will be explained in Lesson VII on Engine-lathe 
 Work. 
 
 To prevent injmy to the dead-spindle it 
 should not be allowed to project beyond the tail- 
 stock farther than is necessary to allow Exercise 2 
 of getting at the work easily. To set Setting the 
 the tail-stock properly, screw the spin- *^-**°°'^- 
 die as far back as it will go, and move the 
 stock up till the dead-centre touches the work as 
 you hold it between the centres with your left 
 hand ; now screw the spindle out, and the centre, 
 pressing against the work, will push the stock 
 back along the shears ; let the stock go back thus 
 till you have room enough to allow of taking the 
 work out and putting it back easily, and fasten 
 the stock with the clamp-sci-ew. 
 
 The spindle slides in a smooth hole in the tail- 
 stock and is kept from turning by means of a 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 spline or groove cut in one side, into which a 
 feather or pin is fitted. To move this spindle 
 
8 THE 8PEED-LATEE. 
 
 there is a screw which revolves in the stock Ai It 
 is supported and held in place by a bearing B, 
 screwed fast to the end of the tail-stock. This 
 screw turns in a corresponding brass nut C in one 
 end of the spindle, which is made hollow and has 
 a conical or taper hole in one end for the insertion 
 of the dead-centre, and a long cylindrical hole in 
 the other end for the admission of the screw. 
 
 The thread on the screw may be either right- or 
 left-handed, the latter being preferable, however, 
 for the reason that it is natural for the majority of 
 workmen to turn the screw towards the right to 
 move the spindle forward ; as the screw turns it is 
 evident that if it is a left-handed one the nut 
 must move forward on the screw, whereas if it 
 were right-handed the reverse would happen, the 
 spindle would be drawn backward and the work 
 loosened between centres. In some lathes, how- 
 ever, the right-handed screw is used, perhaps be- 
 cause of a slight difference in cost. Besides being 
 left-handed the screw should have a double thread, 
 which would move the centre twice as far for the 
 same number of turns of the handle as a single 
 thread would, without materially weakening the 
 screw. As the standard angle of a V thread is 60 
 degrees and the depth -of an ordinary square one is 
 about equal to its width, it is evident that if the 
 pitch is a coarse one the thread will be corre- 
 spondingly deep. For example, if it is desired to 
 
CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE. 9 
 
 cut a thread that will move the spindle \ of an 
 inch for ever)' turn of the' handle, and the diame- 
 ter of the screw is only half an inch, a single 
 thread having a pitch of J in. will reduce the di- 
 ameter of the core or bottom of the thread to \ 
 
 «..._ .;» 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 of an inch, which is too small for practical use, 
 whereas with a double thread of the same pitch 
 the strength is that of a thread of \ inch pitch, as 
 shown in the figure. The workman must make 
 many turns of the screw during the day, and a 
 saving of one half the number is not to be de- 
 spised. 
 
10 TEE SPEEB-LATEE. 
 
 LESSON II. 
 
 STARTING AWrv^TOPPING. CALCULATING THE SPEED. 
 
 In starting the lathe the belt should be run 
 gradually, not suddenly, from the loose to the 
 tight pulley. If it is shifted too 
 sta^n'^ ^' quickly it will slip on the tight pul- 
 ley before the lathe gets into motion, 
 or, which is more troublesome, will run off the 
 pulley altogether. 
 
 To increase the speed of the live-spindle the 
 lathe-belt is shifted from a smaller to a larger 
 step on the counter-shaft, which 
 Exercise 4. causes the belt to run faster, and 
 ^,gn_ from a larger to a smaller step on the 
 
 lathe-cone. The latter change of course 
 must be made first. To lessen the speed the op- 
 posite changes must be made. Practise the two 
 changes successively. 
 
 First, to increase the speed: Holding the left 
 hand against the left edge of the belt about one 
 foot above the head-stock, push the belt with the 
 right hand so as to guide it off from the large step 
 of the cone to the small one. (The holding of the 
 left hand as directed has for its object to prevent 
 
STABTINQ AND STOPPING. SPEED. 11 
 
 the belt from being pushed too far to the left, 
 which in the case of the engine-lathe might cause 
 it to be caught in the gear-wheel and injured. 
 Though this danger does not exist in the case of 
 the speed-lathe, it is important to form the correct 
 habit in the beginning.) The belt is now slack, 
 being on the small step both of the counter-shaft 
 and of the lathe-cone. It is now to be shifted to 
 the larger step of the cone on the counter-shaft. 
 To accomplish this pull the belt forward with 
 the palm of the left hand, stretching it a little. 
 Removing this hand quickly, you will allow the 
 belt to spring back by its elasticity, and at this 
 moment, giving it a push or throw with the right 
 hand, you will guide it on to the larger step on 
 the cone of the counter-shaft. It will require some 
 practice to get facility in this movement. The 
 reverse operation, first on the counter-shaft aad 
 then on the cone, will reduce the speed. 
 
 Measure the diameters, first, of the driving- 
 pulley of the engine and the driven pulley on 
 the main shaft ; second, of the driving- Exercise 5, 
 pulley on the main shaft and the Calculating 
 driven pulley on the counter-shaft; *^^*p^«^- 
 third, of the several steps of the driving-cone 
 on the counter-shaft and the corresponding steps 
 on the lathe-cone. Then, counting the number of 
 revolutions per minute of the engine, either by the 
 eye or by the ear, or by a so-called tachometer or 
 
12 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 speed-counter, determine : first, the speed of the 
 shaft ; second, that of the counter-shaft ; third, that 
 of the spindle with the belt on each of the several 
 steps of the cones. After your calculations are 
 completed you may verify them by taking the 
 speeds of the shaft, counter-shaft, and cone with 
 the tachometer. 
 
 The measured and the calculated results should 
 nearly agree. They will not agree exactly, first, 
 because of small errors in the measurements of the 
 several diameters, and second, because the belts 
 always slip to some extent on the pulleys, making 
 the driven pulley run less rapidly than the calcu- 
 lation would indicate. 
 
 In order to be perfectly accui'ate in calculating 
 speeds the diameter of a pulley should always be 
 measured so as to include one half the thickness of 
 the belt which is around the pulley or cone. The 
 diameter of the pulley plus one thickness of the 
 belt will give the correct result. Some fast-run- 
 ning machines, such as circular saws, emery-wheels, 
 engine-governors, etc., etc., have the speed at which 
 they should be run stamped on the machine in 
 plain sight. Now, knowing the desired speed of 
 the machine and the speed of the engine, it is 
 very easy to calculate the sizes of the pulleys 
 needed. When the thickness of the belt is added 
 to each pulley, as, for instance, \" to the 8" pulley 
 on the main shaft and the same (J") to the pulley 
 
STARTINa AND STOPPING. SPEED. 13 
 
 on the counter-shaft, the proportion is changed : 
 the driving-pulley would now be 8^^" instead of 
 8", and the driven pulley 4-^" instead of 4". One 
 pulley would now be i-| of the other, and not i, 
 or ^, which would make on a machine at a speed 
 of 500 revolutions, a difference of about 9 revolu- 
 tions per minute. 
 
14 TEE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 LESSON III. 
 
 CENTRING AND MOUNTING WORK. PLAIN TURNING 
 WITH THE GOUGE. 
 
 Cut ofi a piece of white pine 8" long and 
 2 J" square. Find the centre of each end by the 
 intersection of' two diagonals, and 
 Exercise 6. mark the centres with a centre-punch 
 mounting ^° or with the lathe-centre, using a cop- 
 per hammer. From this piece turn 
 a cylinder 2" in diameter by the eye. 
 
 You should have in the drawer of your lathe 
 five tools : two gouges, large and small ; two 
 chisels, large and small ; and a square-nose or part- 
 ing tool. Place these tools on your lathe-bench in 
 front of you, at right angles to the length of the 
 lathe, with their handles under the bed of the lathe 
 and their cutting edges far enough out to be seen as 
 you stand at the lathe, so that you can always pick 
 up the right tool without loss of time or risk of 
 cutting your hand. ♦* 
 
 To mount the work, feed the tail-spindle back by 
 turning the screw as far as it will go ; hold the 
 work in the left hand, with one end held up to the 
 
PLAIN TUBNINa WITH THE GOUGE.' 15 
 
 live-centre, and move the tail- stock up to it till 
 the tail-centre enters the centre at the other end 
 of the piece and holds it loosely. Now, before 
 fastening the tail-stock, turn the centre-screw 
 so as to push the centre forward against the work, 
 thus pushing the tail-stock back, till there is room 
 enough to allow of removing the work by screwing 
 the centre back without moving the stock, and not 
 much more. If the spindle projects further than 
 is necessary it will bend or " spring," and cause the 
 work to chatter and turn rough. Clamp the tail- 
 stock fast. 
 
 The gouge and chisel are very much like the cor- 
 responding carpenter's tools except in length and 
 in the form of their cutting edges. The Turning- 
 wood-turner's tools and their handles t°°is. 
 are longer than those of the carpenter's to allow 
 the workmen to stand away from the dust and 
 shavings made by the lathe. The wood- turner's 
 tools are bevelled differently from those of the car- 
 penter : the bevel of the gouge is on the convex 
 side (Fig. 6, A), while that of the carpenter's par- 
 ing-gouge is on the concave side (Fig. 6, B^, and 
 the turner's chisel is bevelled on both sides. The 
 edge also is differently shaped : that of the car- 
 penter's gouge is in a plane perpendicular to the 
 length, while that of the turner's gouge is curved 
 out of this plane, so that the latter is analogous to 
 the jack-plane and cuts a groove or trough, while 
 
16 
 
 TEE 8PEEBLATHE. 
 
 the former is like the smoothing-plane and would 
 cut a more nearly plane surface. The cutting edLgQ 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 of the turner's chisel is inclined to the axis of the 
 tool at an angle of about 60° instead of being per- 
 pendicular to it, as in the carpenter's chisel. The 
 size of the cutting angle in either of the tools 
 depends on the kind of wood to be worked, and 
 may be about the same as in the carpenter's' tools. 
 
PLAIN TURNING WITB TBE GOUGE. 
 
 11 
 
 The piece of work being mounted between the 
 centres, see that the centre is oiled and that there 
 is no side-play between the centres. 
 At the same time the piece must be ^^^■'""^ '■ 
 
 .-, . „ Plain turning. 
 
 free to turn easily. Any excess of pres- 
 sure will cause undue friction on the shoulders of 
 the Journal and face of the bearings, with heating 
 
 and rapid 
 about !■" from 
 when the 
 the cutting 
 the centre, 
 perpendicu- 
 w o r k (as 
 obliquely (as 
 position you 
 the flying 
 with its edge 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 wear. Set the rest 
 the work and so that 
 gouge lies on the rest 
 edge shall be above 
 Do not hold the gouge 
 lar to the length of the 
 shown in Fig. 7), but 
 in Fig. 8). In this 
 can stand clear of all 
 chips. Lay the gouge 
 on the rest, the handle 
 
 swung well over towards the right, the concavity 
 facing towards the left. Bring the cutting edge 
 carefully against the piece near the right-hand 
 end and move it along steadily from right to 
 
18 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 left, taking off about the same quantity all along 
 the length of the piecp, Carry the gouge back to 
 the riglat-haud end and repeat the operation. 
 
 You can cut from left to right in the same way, 
 swinging the handle towards the left, keeping the 
 
 concave side ^^-^^ ^^ *^® ^^^^ 
 
 to the right, M'^W^^ ^^^ propel- 
 
 ling it from jp^ *W0&^jMi ^^^ left 
 
 hand to t h e ^/^^^»# ^"^^^^ ^^"'^• 
 
 Run at a jiM^ (^^^M'^m moderate 
 speed, in this /^^^^^J MIm^m k ^^^e the 
 lowest that the ^^M^^^^^^" cone wnll 
 give, and, slid- ^® ing the tool 
 
 along steadily ^ from left 
 
 to right, take ^i»- 8- successive 
 
 cuts till the corners are all turned off and the 
 piece is approximately cylindrical. 
 
 The first cut ^aust be made cautiouslj'', as, while 
 the piece is square or nearly so, there is danger, 
 if you cut too deep, of having the tool caught by 
 the work and perhaps jerked out of your hand. 
 
PLAIN TURmNQ WITH TBE OOUGR 19 
 
 In turning large, heavy work, and any work while 
 taking off the corners, it is well to hold the han- 
 dle of the gouge firmly against your side. You 
 must stop occasionally and test the work, and take 
 up any play which may have resulted from the 
 wearing away or compression of the wood at 
 the centres. If this last point is not attended to 
 the work will get loose in the centres and will not 
 be turned true, or it may even fall out. After you 
 have become a little accustomed to the handling 
 of the tool 3'^ou should keep your eye on the work 
 rather than on the cutting edge of the tool — just 
 as you do in chipping metal or chiselling wood. 
 
 As in forge-work, so in wood-turning you must 
 learn to work by eye measurement. Turn the 
 piece down to as near 2" as you can by eye before 
 using the calipei-s. Then face off the end with 
 the chisel, holding it flat on the rest, perpen- 
 dicular to the axis of the piece, and with the long 
 side towards the piece. Push the chisel down 
 towards the centre, cutting off enough to make the 
 work run true. We now call the work approxi- 
 mately true and balanced, and it will now be safe 
 to change to a higher speed before finishing. 
 
 A point of the utmost importance in turning is 
 to use only properly ground and sharpened tools. 
 It will be worth while to try for once to work 
 with impropei'ly ground tools, so as to impress this 
 thoroughly on your mind. After such experiments 
 
20 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 you will not be likely to work with bad tools in 
 the mistaken idea that in sharpening them you are 
 losing time. 
 
 When your work is true and parallel finish it 
 smooth with the chisel. The chisel, like the smooth- 
 ohisei. ing-plane in carpentry and the flatter 
 
 in forge-work, is only a finishing-tool. All work 
 
 Fig. 9, 
 
 should be prepared and brought near to a finish 
 with the gouge, after which the chisel, if in proper 
 condition and properly used, will finish the work 
 better than you can do it with sandpaper. The 
 
PLAIN TUBNING WITH THE OOUGK 21 
 
 chisel is held in about the same position as tne 
 gouge, with the whole of the bevelled surface 
 bearing on the work, as in Fig, 9. In this position 
 it will cut and polish at the same time. The short 
 side should lie on the rest, the long side or acute 
 angle being turned towards the right, and the 
 handle swung horizontally to the right. All 
 these points are shown in the iSgure. Give care- 
 ful attention to them, f^ if the chisel is held thus, 
 and firmly, it will not slip and dig into the work. 
 
 Practise with these two tools till you are able 
 to turn very near to size, smooth and parallel, with 
 the eye alone, without the calipers. 
 
 From the pieces of work left in the last exer- 
 cises turn a taper plug to dimensions fixed in a 
 sketch in advance, say 8" long, and 2" Exercise a. 
 
 .... . ° Taper turn- 
 
 and 1 in diameter at the ends. i^g. 
 
 First lay the gouge with its edge on the tee of 
 the rest, with the handle in the right hand swung 
 well over towards the left, and the concavity fac- 
 ing towards the right. 
 
 Bring the cutting edge carefully against the 
 piece at A, Fig. 10, about 1" from the tail-centre 
 end, and move it along steadily from left to right. 
 Carry the goiige back again and take another cut; 
 repeat the operation till the piece of work for 
 about i" of its length is turned to the smallest 
 diameter. Now in the same manner turn the taper 
 straight and true, commencing first at B, then O, 
 
22 
 
 THE SPEED- LAT3E. 
 
 D, etc., taking successive cuts downwards from 
 tlie larger to the smaller diameter. Finish the 
 
 K:r 
 
 
 surface smooth with the chisel, as in the last 
 exercise. 
 
TUBNINQ CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 23 
 
 LESSON IV. 
 
 TUENING CONCAVE AND CONVEX STJEFACES WITH 
 THE CHISEL. 
 
 Cut off a piece of pine or white wood 8" x 
 2^" X 2 J" and turn to the shape and size indicated 
 in the figure. 
 
 First turn to a true cylinder. Mark off the 
 spaces with a lead-pencil while the piece is at rest, 
 then start the lathe and mark with the Exercise 9. 
 acute corner of the chisel, inserting s*'^^s^*^"'* 
 
 ^ curved sur- 
 
 the point well into the work at the faces to pat- 
 junctions of the convex surfaces or *^™- 
 beads and ribs a, a. A very light cut must be 
 made at h, b, the boundaries of the concave sur- 
 faces, as these are not to be cut down at the ends. 
 Turn the beads, ribs, and fillets with the chisel 
 
24 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 alone. (The gouge is not to be used, as the object 
 of the lesson is to attain skill in the use of the 
 cnisel. After this is accomplished it will be found 
 that better work can be done than with the gouge 
 and more quickly.) In doing this you will appre- 
 ciate the advantage of having learned to work 
 with your eye fixed on the surface to be cut rather 
 than on the cutting-tool. The convex surfaces 
 and the concave surfaces will have to be treated 
 differently. 
 
 To cut the convex surface or bead or rib, place 
 the chisel nearly flat on the tee of the rest, as 
 
 Fig 
 
 in Fig. 1 2, the handle swung round to the left and 
 the long edge hg a little raised, so that the tool rests 
 
TURNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 25 
 
 on the short edge af. In this position advance it 
 till the heel d just touches the Avork at c, the 
 middle of the bead A, Fig. 11. Turn the chisel 
 gradually up on the short edge af until its plane 
 or face fh is nearly vertical, and at the same time 
 swing the handle to the right and upward, which 
 
 G 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 will cause the cutting edge to move along the 
 work to the left and downward, as shown in Fig. 
 
 13. 
 
 The other half ce of the bead is cut by similar 
 
 but reverse motions. That is, you will stand in 
 the same position, but with the handle of the tool 
 (in the same hand) swung round to the right in- 
 stead of the left (Fig. 14). The long edge bg 
 
26 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 will be to the left and slightly raised, while the 
 chisel lies nearly but not quite flat, resting on the 
 short edge a'f, Fig. 12. Then turn the chisel 
 gradually up round this edge as before, swinging 
 the handle at 
 the same time 
 towards the 
 left and up- 
 ward, making 
 the heel of 
 the tool move 
 toward the 
 right and 
 downward, 
 till it takes again 
 shown in Fig. 13. 
 
 While cutting from left to right 
 do not change hands, but learn to 
 hold the handle of the tool in the 
 right hand and the blade always in 
 the left. The iniportance of this will be appre- 
 ciated in underhand cutting later. It is obvious 
 that while holding the blade in your right hand 
 that hand is not free to attend to the dead-centre 
 or to pick up a pair of calipers, or the rule, or the 
 model, without moving the tool from the rest, in 
 doing which it is apt to become nicked. 
 
 To cut the hollow B, Fig. 11, again use the 
 chisel aloie, but begin near b, and cut the part hi 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
TUBNINa CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 21 
 
 then at h' to cut b'l. For the first, begin with 
 the chisel resting on the short edge or right- 
 hand corner af, the longitudinal plane through 
 the cutting edge nearly vertical, as in Fig. 15, 
 
 ceoeh I T> 
 
 6 I b 
 
 Fig. 15, 
 
 but inclined over a little towards the right, and 
 the handle swung round towards the left. As 
 the tool cuts, tuin the cutting edge more and 
 more from the vertical towards the right, and 
 swing the handle toward the right and up, so 
 that by the time the point I is reached, the 
 handle of the chisel shall be nearly perpendicular 
 
28 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 to the work, as in Fig. 16. In cutting h'l the 
 plane of the edge of the chisel inclines increas- 
 ingly towards the left, and the handle, which 
 is swung far to the right in the beginning, is 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 brought more and more nearly perpendicular, 
 being raised a little at the same time. In finish- 
 ing up remove the ridge that will form in the 
 middle by going over the surfaces lightly with 
 the middle part of the edge (and not with the heel) 
 passing a little beyond the centre of the fillet. 
 
TURNINO CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES- 29 
 
 Care must be taken to have the two quadrants of 
 the bead and the two half curves of the fillet ex- 
 actly alike and symmetrical. Your ability to do 
 good work on this exercise depends upon having 
 sharp and properly ground tools. The heel does 
 the cutting, while the surface following guides 
 and polishes. 
 
 If you can succeed in catching these motions 
 you will be able to take off the wood with a cut- 
 ting rather than a scraping motion and will leave 
 the surface smooth. 
 
 In turning the curved surfaces of the bead and 
 the hollow the heel or obtuse corner of the chisel 
 is the cutting one, while in turning down a side 
 face it is the acute angle that is used, tilted a 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 little as shown in Fig. 17. This angle is almost 
 always used for cutting off and cutting down 
 shoulders ) but if used for finishing a straight or 
 
30 
 
 TEE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 square surface it is apt to make the surface of the 
 work wavy. 
 
 For practice with the tools, and to train the 
 eye and learn the behavior of different kinds of 
 wood, repeat the last exercise with a piece of wal- 
 nut or cherry. 
 
 To turn a handle for a file or chisel, use the 
 
 piece already used for Exercise 8 (a 
 
 Exercise 10. taper plug). Work from a model, 
 
 A chisel- ^ -, 
 
 handle. ^'^d copy by eye, using no measure- 
 
 ments. 
 After youi' last exercise you will have little 
 difficulty in finishing this all with the chisel. 
 First mark off the length of the f-^rrule a, the 
 position of the curve ho and the length d, as in 
 the figure. 
 
 Tio. 18. 
 
 With the acute angle of the large chisel cut 
 \\ell down into the work at c and d, slightly at a, 
 and make only a light mark at b. Place the point 
 
TURNING OONOAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 31 
 
 of the heel or obtuse angle of the chisel against 
 the work at h, a little to the left of the mark, 
 and cut out part of the fillet ho down to the 
 notch c. Next round off the end, cutting down 
 to the notch d, a task very much the same as 
 that of turning the bead. When cutting from 
 left to right do not change hands, but, as before, 
 hold the handle in your right hand and the blade 
 of the tool in your left, as when cutting from right 
 to left. The reasons for this have been given 
 before. Now with the heel placed to the left of 
 c cut from left to right, shaping and connecting 
 the two surfaces at c. 
 
 It is possible to turn out a perfect form at once 
 without these auxiliary cuts ; but it is better, at 
 least at first, to divide the operations thus into 
 parts. Make several of these cuts if necessary, 
 and repeat the operation until the convex and con- 
 cave surfaces are gradually brought down to the 
 desired shape and proper dimensions. This will 
 give more practice for the chisel and eye, which 
 at this stage is very important. 
 
 The small end is not to be finished, but left 
 somewhat larger than is necessary, to be finished 
 and fitted with a ferrule as a future exercise. 
 
32 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 LESSON V. 
 
 CHUCK- WORK. 
 
 It is required to turn a ring with an external 
 Exercise 11. diameter of 3" and a circular cross- 
 A ring. section of \" diameter 
 
 Grlue together two pieces of pine each f" thick 
 and Z\" square. Remove the live-centre and put 
 a small piece of waste in the hole of the spindle 
 to keep out the dust. Screw on the face-plate, 
 first cleaning thoroughly the threads of the spindle 
 and the plate. The plate should run on with 
 perfect ease, and it will do so if the threads are 
 clean. As the face-plate approaches the shoulder 
 of the spindle, bring it up into contact carefully 
 and without using undue force. If it is jammed 
 too tight it will be difficult to remove it without 
 injuring the lathe, and besides the thread of the 
 plate may ride up on that of the spindle and one 
 or both be damaged. 
 
 Measure the diameter of the base of the taper 
 screw of the face-plate at the bottom of the thread. 
 Bore a hole of this size in the middle of the piece 
 of wood and screw it fast to the face-plate, bring- 
 ing it up into close contact. 
 
CHUCK- WORK. 
 
 33 
 
 Set the hand-rest perpendicular to the lathe bed 
 or parallel to the face of the work, about \" distant 
 from it, and at a distance below the centre about 
 equal to the thickness of the chisel, so that when 
 the chisel or parting-tool lies flat on the rest the 
 cutting edge shall be a very little below the centre. 
 Holding the chisel £at on the rest, perpendicular 
 to the face of the work and with the long edge 
 
 Fio. 19. 
 
 toward the right, turn down the piece to within 
 
 ■^-^" of its true size- 
 
 -that is, to a diameter of 3^^' 
 
 Then, reversing the chisel, so that the long edge 
 shall be towards the left, trim out the inside of 
 the ring also to within j-^" of its true size — that 
 is, to a diameter lyf ", but only |" in depth. Now 
 
34 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 shift the hand-rest to its first position or parallel 
 to the axis of the lathe and at the same height as 
 before, and with the parting-tool placed ■^-^" to the 
 left of the face of the piece and perpendicular to 
 the length of the lathe cut in about |" deep. 
 
 You will observe that the parting tool is much 
 thicker in the middle, having a diamond-shaped 
 cross-section. This gives more clearance to the 
 tool when it is used as a boring-tool or to cut a 
 circle or to make a cut the exact size of the width 
 of the tool. In the present case, however, there 
 is plenty of room to spare, and you may make a 
 cut a little wider than the tool, Avhich will lessen 
 the heating. You should cut lightly and run at 
 a moderate speed, so as to avoid drawing the 
 temper of the tool, which you may easily do if 
 you force it too much. If this does happen it 
 will be necessary to re temper the tool. 
 
 You have now turned the outside and inside 
 diameters and the thickness of the ring to within 
 -^j" of its true size. Shape and finish it with the 
 chisel and sand-paper. In doing this it is obvious 
 that you cannot cut with the chisel, as you did in 
 forming the file-liandle, for instance. In that case 
 the grain of the wood ran parallel to the axis of 
 the lathe : in this it is everywhere perpendicular 
 to the axis, and if you use your chisel as before it 
 will dig in find mar the work. It is to be used 
 now as a scraper, being held, not with its eA^e on 
 
CEUOK-WOBK. 35 
 
 the rest, but with its flat face, and with its length 
 perpendicular to the surface which is being cut; 
 the direction of the motion of the revolving wood 
 is then perpendicular to the cutting face of the 
 tool, instead of being nearly parallel to it, as in 
 Exercise 10. 
 
 After turning as much and as near to the re- 
 quired size as possible on the face-plate, cut the 
 piece off by running the pai'ting-tool or small 
 chisel through at h in the figure, meeting the chan- 
 nel a, and the ring will then drop off on to the 
 tool and will have a nearly circular cross-section. 
 
 To finish it you must use a " chuck " made from 
 a piece of 1" pine about 5" square. Before doing 
 this face off the remaining piece on the face-plate 
 before taking it off, and glue to it a piece of 
 cherry, maple, or other hard wood, 3J" square and 
 about -|-" thick, from which to turn another ring. 
 While this is drying make the chuck and finish 
 the ring. 
 
 Fasten the piece for the chuck to the face-plate 
 as you did the piece Just used and turn it to a cir- 
 cular form, leaving it as large as it will hold. Cut 
 out the centre to a depth just half the thickness of 
 the ring — that is, — i" and of a diameter just large 
 enough to hold the ring firmly, but not so tight 
 that you will run the risk of breaking the ring 
 in forcing it in. The bottom of the chuck and the 
 cylindrical surface must be turned perfectly true. 
 
36 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 In chucking work, and also in reversing it in 
 
 the chuck, make sure that it is pushed in till it 
 
 bears firmly all round against the bottom of the 
 
 recess. Then, using the chisel as a 
 
 Exercise 12. . ° t i i n ■ ^ 
 
 Making a scraper and cutting very lightly, finish 
 chuck. the ring, and smooth it with fine 
 
 "^" sandpaper. It can be removed and 
 reversed any number of times without impairing 
 the accuracy of the work provided the chuck 
 is perfectly true. ^ 
 
 To familiarize yourself with the behavior of 
 different woods under the chisel, turn, from the 
 piece of maple already prepared, a duplicate of 
 the last exercise by eye. 
 
 Cut off a piece of black walnut about 8" long 
 
 and 2\" square. Mount it and turn it to the 
 
 ^ largest possible diameter. Face off 
 
 Exercise 13. -, • -, tit 
 
 Hollow work. One end either plane or very slightly 
 A vase or concave, but certainly not convex, 
 wineg ass. goj-g -(jhis end and fit it to the face- 
 plate. The end being square, the piece should run 
 true without the support of the centre ; neverthe- 
 less, for greater safety, rough out and do all you 
 can in such cases between face-plate and centre. 
 The work is now balanced. Remove the tail-stock 
 and boie the cylindrical cavity as in the last exer- 
 cise, roughing it out with the small chisel. Before 
 doing this make a mark upon the chisel at a dis- 
 tance from the point equal to the depth of the 
 
OHUOK-WORK. 
 
 37 
 
 required hollow. Continue the boring with the 
 chisel until the mark on it coincides with the face 
 of the work. 
 
 This hole, as will appear later, can be bored 
 very well with the gouge, but not without 
 danger unless the workman is very skilful, as the 
 tool is apt to dig in and be jerked from the hand. 
 Make a number of cuts. Fig. 20, each, cut being sue- 
 
 ^^^^g^ 
 
 /////////////////A 
 
 ■ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 : 
 
 
 
 
 B 
 
 
 
 P 
 
 W///M/////A 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 cessively about \" larger in diameter and \" less 
 in depth than the preceding one, thus forming a 
 series of steps on the inside, measurement being 
 taken with a gauge, or by marking the chisel as 
 before. The steps ai-e now removed and the cavity 
 roughed out with the same chisel, held with the 
 acute angle reversed or turned toward the centre 
 of the work, as in Fig. 21. Every tool that has a 
 broad surface, when used as a scraper tends to 
 make the work unti'ue or, in turning, eccentric : 
 hence the objection to cutting too much with it at 
 the thin portion a in the figure. As the gouge is 
 
38 
 
 THE SPEBD-LATHE. 
 
 not a safe tool in the hands of a beginner for 
 finishing the curved bottom, this may be done with 
 
 Pig. 21. 
 
 a " round-nosed " or " face " tool, Fig. 22, made for 
 the purpose from a fiat bar of steel or an old file 
 ground down thin at the cutting edge. 
 
 As this is your first attempt at hollow or inside 
 cutting, it is well to finish all hollowing out be- 
 
 s^^VWW^mil 
 
 
 s^^^^^!^^^ 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 fore commencing work on the outer portion, as the 
 work is more firm and is not so apt to chatter and 
 snap off as it would be after having been partly 
 
OEUCK-WOBK. 
 
 39 
 
 turned on the outside. In rounding off the out- 
 side of the cup the chisel should be used as a 
 scraping-tool after the hollow has been roughed 
 out with the chisel a.nd gouge. If used as a cut- 
 ting-tool it is likely to dig in, on account of the 
 springy nature of the hollow. 
 
 Now bring up the tail-centre very gently, allow- 
 ing it to make its own centre gradually while the 
 piece is revolving. Clamp it fast, and with the 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
 work between face-plate and centre turn and finish 
 the outside as you did the file-handle. First mark 
 out the depth of the hollow a, Fig. 24, the length 
 of the bowl b, and the base c and c, as in the file- 
 handle exercise. Using the acute edge of the large 
 chisel, insert the point well down into the work 
 at b, making a notch as shown in the figure, and 
 pare or cut down and partly round it off as in the 
 last exercise. With the acute angle make another 
 cut and pare down to it. Repeat the operation 
 until the bowl is nearly completed, turn to the true 
 dimensions, and make the thin portion of the inside 
 
40 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 of the bowl at d concentric, or perfectly true, with 
 a small, round-nose tool, and finish with the large 
 chisel held as a scraping-tool. 
 
 Rough out the middle portion or stem first with 
 the small gouge and chisel, finishing the fillets and 
 beads with the special tools. Finish the stem and 
 all the curved parts nearest the bowl first and 
 
 ll\ 
 
 J y\-%. ^ 
 
 ^H5o7^. I \LAciit. Sent 
 
 I A-IJ ■^-- . 
 
 |l 
 ll/ 
 
 b 
 
 ■ > i 
 
 lAI 
 
 ~ d 
 
 I 
 I 
 I 
 ecm.. 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 tfrf — 
 
 **— — — cfcor * 
 
 gradually work toward the base of the cup 
 in order to prevent twisting and breaking the 
 stem. 
 
 Great care must be taken not to let the chisel 
 or gouge slip and dig in, especially in working 
 near the bowl at b. A dull tool is ever ready to 
 do this and should not be used. 
 
 In an exercise of this kind when the desio-n is 
 more complicated, with many curves of different 
 radii, several special tools are necessary, called 
 pattern-makei-'s tools. They are all made in the. 
 
CHUOK-WOBE. 41 
 
 same way as the one just used and can be easily- 
 altered and adapted to any kind of work. For 
 light fancy turning such tools exclusively are 
 used, at least after the first I'oughing out. 
 
 For further practice in such work as the last, 
 if there is abundance of time, the following 
 variations may be made : Pieces of „ . , , 
 maple, cherry, and other woods being a broad vase 
 glued together, the grain running par- or card-re- 
 allel to the axis of the proposed object, 
 and one of the pieces being exactly central, so that 
 the colors shall be symmetrically arranged, a 
 pleasing variety of effect will be obtained. In 
 this way a duplicate of the last exercise may be 
 made by eye, or the card-receiver, a vase with 
 broad and shallow bowl, may be turned. 
 
 Centre the piece exactly at the middle of one of 
 the colored pieces and, between centres, turn to 
 the largest possible cylinder. If the piece has been 
 correctly centred, and the several thicknesses were 
 properly prepared, the stripes of color will be 
 symmetrical. Face off the end, boie it and fit it 
 to the face-plate, and then at a low speed and 
 with a light cut turn the outside true. When it 
 is quite true and perfectly balanced, run at a 
 higher speed and turn the cavity for the base, 
 which should be slightly concave, and bore and 
 fit this end to the face-plate. Now cut out the 
 top and finish it to the shape and size given in 
 
42 THE SPEED- LATHE. 
 
 tte drawing or model, and then, as in Exercise 13, 
 bring the tail-centre up. Rough out and nearly 
 finish the work between centre and face-plate, 
 relaxing the pressure of the centre as the stem 
 gets near the true size, so as to lessen the risk 
 of breaking, but without removing the centre 
 altogether. For the same reason great care must 
 be taken to use sharp tools and light cuts, and 
 to make special tools for particular parts. 
 
 For repetition of the operations of Exercises 
 Exercise 15. 9, 10, etc, in various woods, an egg- 
 An egg or an shaped soHd, an Indian club, and other 
 Indian club, g^^j^ objects may, if time allows, 
 be made from plain hard wood or from colored 
 woods glued together. The work should always be 
 done from drawings, and should be exact to meas- 
 urement. These exercises involve no new princi- 
 ples and are not necessary, except for the purpose 
 of acquiring quickness and precision. 
 
PATTERN-MAKINQ. 43 
 
 LESSON VI. 
 
 PATTERN-MAKING. 
 
 The preparation of a suitable pattern for a cast- 
 ing requires a knowledge of the properties of the 
 wood from which the pattern is to be made, the 
 process of working it in the lathe or at the bench 
 to any desired form, the process of making a cast- 
 ing from it, and the process of finishing the cast- 
 ing to its proper form and dimensions. This 
 knowledge your previous exercises have already 
 furnished, and you have now to apply it. 
 
 You remember that wood shrinks and warps, 
 and you will endeavor to prevent this, or to coun- 
 teract its effect by making allowance for the 
 shrinking and by building up the pattern of 
 pieces with their grain in different directions to 
 prevent the warping. You will have to study 
 with care the drawings of a given pattern, and so 
 design it as to give it the greatest possible 
 strength. As the sand is to be packed closely 
 round it, you will have to consider the " di'aught " 
 or inclination of its sides to allow it to be easily 
 
44 THE SPEED- LATHE. 
 
 removed from the mould. As the metal will 
 shrink in cooling, you must make the proper al- 
 lowance for this in designing the pattern. Finally, 
 as the casting will have to be finished up, allow- 
 ance must be made also for the loss of size in the 
 process of finishing. 
 
 The amount of " draught " needed for a small 
 pattern is much less than that given to a large one. 
 A very thin pattern can be made with its sides 
 almost parallel, while for a pattern, or any part of 
 one, which enters deeply into the mould or flask a 
 draught of \" or \" to the foot is given. 
 
 The allowance for shrinkage of the metal depends 
 very much upon the shape and the size of the pat- 
 tern. The shrinkage is the greatest where there 
 is the greatest amount of metal. 
 
 It is found in practice that in all patterns about 
 4" or less in any direction no allowance need be 
 made for shrinkage, as the jarring necessary to 
 loosen the pattern from the sand enlarges the 
 mould enough to make up for the shrinkage, so 
 that a casting of this size will be of the exact size 
 of the pattern. Above this size, however, the cast- 
 ing will be smaller than the pattern. 
 
 The usual allowance made for the contraction of 
 the casting in cast iron is a little less than ■^" per 
 foot, and for brass ^" per foot and over, as you 
 have learned in your course in moulding. 
 
 First glue up and turn a simple cylinder pat- 
 
PATTEBNMAKINO. 45 
 
 tern for a casting whicJi is to be turned and fin- 
 ished to a diameter of 3|" and a Exercise i6 
 length of 8". Make the proper al- a pattern for 
 lowance for shrinkage, and for turning ^ cylinder, 
 in the metal lathe. The size then for the pattern will 
 be : diameter, 3|", plus J" per foot for shrinkage, 
 plus 1^" for the surface, or 3J"; length, 8";, plus 
 i' per foot, plus \", or 8f ." 
 
 Cut oif four pieces of pine 1" X 4" X 10". Test 
 the pieces to see if they are winding, and if you 
 find them straight glue them together in twos, 
 making two pieces 2" X 4" X 10". 
 
 To do this, first see if the glue is of the proper 
 consistency ; it is a waste of time to use the glue 
 before it is in proper condition. This is a very 
 important point in pattern-making. The room 
 cshould be warm, the glue hot and not too thin or 
 thick, and the pieces should be heated. 
 
 You have learned from your soldering and 
 welding exercises that the closer metal and metal 
 are brought together the stronger will be the joint, 
 and the same is true in glueing — the closer the 
 pieces are brought together by rubbing and press- 
 ing out all excess of glue (if it is in proper con- 
 dition) the stronger will the joint be. Glue and 
 fasten the pieces together with the screw-clamps. 
 
 This pattern is composed of two halves, and is 
 to be moulded in a two-part flask (such as you 
 have used in moulding.) 
 
46 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 The line aa shows the division of the pattern. 
 Glne the pieces together, but at the end only, for 
 about \" of their length, and you will then have a 
 piece 4" square and 10" long. The parting-line 
 being at aa, care must be taken to centre the piece 
 exactly on this line, so that when the pattern is 
 turned and the joint broken or separated the pieces 
 
 Fig. 35. 
 
 
 P^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^0^ 
 
 
 ^ ®' 
 
 m 
 
 ^/4^7j^ 
 
 ^^^^^^ i» 
 
 shall be exact semi-cylinders. In large work (and 
 it will be safer in this case) clamps are fastened 
 to the ends of the pieces to hold them together. 
 Fasten to the ends the washers, b, b, provided for 
 the purpose, with the hole enlarged to admit the 
 centres. Without these washers the work is apt, 
 from a Jar or shock, to break apart. It is not 
 necessary, however, to use them in very small work. 
 After turning the piece to the proper diameter 
 (3f "+ i" per foot + i" = 3 J"), before separating 
 the pieces, bore and fit two dowel-pins, one at 
 each end. The length of the piece is now 2" too 
 great. Bore the holes for the dowels, one hole 
 2" and the other 2^" from the ends, perpendicular 
 
PATTERN-MAKING. 
 
 47 
 
 to the plane surface, and 3" deep, piercing but not 
 boring through the bottom half b. The object in 
 fitting one dowel-pin nearer the end than the other 
 is to insure the putting of the parts of the pattern 
 together in the position in which they were 
 turned. If put together in the reverse position in 
 the mould they might not form a perfect cylin- 
 der. Mark and cut off the pins, which should fit 
 snugly, but not too tight, in the upper half of the 
 pattern, put a little glue on the pins near the top, 
 and drive them into place. 
 
 With the parting-tool cut off 1", or the amount 
 necessary, from each end to make the pattern 
 of the exact length, 8" + i" per foot + i" = 8f ", 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 giving it also the proper di*aught. This waste 
 at each end will remove the holes made by the 
 screws to fasten on the washers, and also the part 
 in the line aa of division which has been glued. 
 When these ends are cut off with the back-saw 
 the parts of the pattern will easily separate. If 
 
48 
 
 TEE SPBBD-LATHE. 
 
 you find, however, the pins fit too tight, rub them 
 a little with sandpaper. They should fit easy, 
 but without shake. Shellac the pattern, giving 
 the ends two coats, and when it is dry it will be 
 ready for use. 
 
 Next turn a pattern for a simple hollow cylinder 
 4" long and 4" in diameter. The casting from 
 Exercise 17. this pattern is to be used as an ex- 
 a hollow ercise on the metal lathe, and to be 
 cyUnder. finished all over, faced, turned, and 
 bored. Allowance must be made for shrinkage 
 as in the last exercise, and also for the turning 
 and finishing up of the casting to the given di- 
 mensions. 
 
 As the cylinder is to be cast hollow, or with a 
 hole clear through it, provision must be made for 
 coring. To do this, add to the length of the cylin- 
 der about 4" for the core-prints. 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 While the core-prints^, A form a part of the 
 pattern, they will not be a part of the casting, and 
 they are generally distinguished from the pattern 
 
PATTERN-MAKING. 
 
 49 
 
 by being painted black. They are added to the 
 pattern to form an impression in the sand into 
 which the core (the exact size of the print) can be 
 laid and supported in the mould. 
 
 A is the core and BB the space round the core 
 into which the metal flows and thus forms the cast- 
 
 FiG. 28. 
 
 ing without displacing the core, as it is held firmly 
 between the upper and lower moulds, or "nowel and 
 cope," as they are called. The diameter of the prints 
 should be \" less than the bore of the cylinder. 
 
 Glue up the pieces, tuia, bore, fit, and cut 
 them oif, all as in the last exercise. 
 
 The pattern-maker understands that, while he is 
 to make the whole pattern larger to allow for 
 shrinkage, allowance for the metal ma- Exercise is. 
 chine tool is made only where a crow- ■*■ ^"i^*-"? 
 
 foot X, or the words "finished size" cylinder and 
 
 appear on the drawing. Then the .steam-chest, 
 length of this pattern when finished will be the 
 
50 
 
 THE 8PEED-LATHE. 
 
 vr tt — R-r » 
 
PA TTBRN-MAEING. 
 
 51 
 
 length given in the drawing, Fig. 29 (which 
 shows the finished casting), plus the shrinkage, 
 plus allowance for the metal-tool, plus the length 
 necessary for the core-prints; and the diameter 
 will be the diameter of the flanges, plus the shrink- 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 
 age, plus the allowance for the tool. Allowance 
 for shrinkage and the tool is made in the same way 
 for the steam-chest A. As there is to be no turn- 
 ing of the metal between the flanges, no allowance 
 
52 
 
 THE SPEED- LATBE. 
 
 need be made in the diameter of the cylinder ex- 
 cept for shrinkage. The pattern for this casting 
 is shown in Fig. 30, omitting the core-prints 
 at D. The dimensions must be found, from 
 those given in Fig. 29, by adding the proper 
 allowances. 
 
 First, glue up and turn, as in the last exercise, 
 the simple cylinder as shown in the detail draw- 
 ing, Fig. 31, turning the grooves a, a for the 
 flanges. 
 
 Second, turn and fit the flanges or rings. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 Pig. 31.. 
 
 Third, make and glue on the flat seat (7 for the 
 steam-chest. 
 
 To make and fit the rings, fasten to the face- 
 plate a piece of pine, large enough for a face- 
 plate, and screw it fast, as you did the piece for 
 a chuck in the ring exercise. Face it off true 
 and find the centre by holding up to the revolving 
 piece your lead pencil, supported upon the T of 
 the hand rest, making a little dot by touching it 
 gently. Draw aline through this point across the 
 grain of the wood and fasten one of the pieces for 
 the flanges (which are to be in two halves) to this 
 
PATTEBN-MAKING. 
 
 53 
 
 face-plate with screws, taking care to have the 
 edge aa coincide with the line drawn through 
 the point on the face-plate. 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
 Fasten in the same manner the second half, 
 sliding it up to the edge of the first piece. 
 It will then be ready 
 for turning. Turn the 
 outside diameter ^" 
 larger and the inside 
 diameter ^" smaller 
 than the pattern, and 
 make the thickness \" 
 larger than the width of the grooves aa in the 
 cylinder. Be sure the face is square with the 
 inside diameter before removing the pieces from 
 the face-plate. The halves should be exactly alike 
 when compared. 
 
 If the pieces are square and true, remove them 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
54 TBE aPBED-LATEE. 
 
 from the face-plate, remount the cylinder, and fin- 
 ish the grooves to fit the flanges accui'ately. Use 
 the flanges as you would the calipers, trying them 
 frequently in the grooves. When they are fitted, 
 glue the pieces to the cylinder, beiug very careful 
 to have the ends a, a, Fig. 32, agree with the line 
 of division on the cylinder. If the grooves are 
 well smeared with glue it will not be necessary to 
 put any glue on the flange-pieces, but only to rub 
 them down well in place, pressing out all excess 
 of glue. After scraping off all the glue, if there 
 is any, between the ends a, a, clamp them to the 
 cylinder with the clamp-sci'ews. 
 
 When this is dry, remove the clamps and turn 
 and finish the flange part of the pattern and the 
 core-print, as shown in the sketch. As this is a 
 difficult pattern to draw from the sand, give the 
 proper draught, not only to the pattern proper, 
 but to all the prints as well. 
 
 Turn and finish in the same manner the cylin- 
 der for the steam-chest and then glue it on to the 
 steam-cylinder, as in the drawing, Fig. 30. 
 
 The hollow cylinder. Fig. 34, is to be cut into 
 Exercise 19. ^ings in a later exercise (Part II., 
 A pattern for Lessou 13, Pistou-rings). You have 
 a hollow already learned (Ex. 17) how to make 
 
 cylinder •' _ ^ / 
 
 without a pattern with core-prints for such a 
 
 prints. cylinder; the same object may now 
 
 be made from the pattern shown, without a core. 
 
PA TTEBN-MAEING. 
 
 55 
 
 As this pattern will be fragile, it is to be built 
 up of several layers or rings, as shown in the 
 elevation A, each ring consisting, as shown in the 
 
 
 -sH' 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 plan B, of several segments, all of which have the 
 grain of the wood running lengthwise. 
 
 First make a template by dividing off the ring 
 between two properly drawn circles into 6 equal 
 
 Pig. 35. 
 
 parts, Fig. 35. Using one of these segments as a 
 template, mark out parallel with the grain of the 
 
66 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 wood a sufficient number of pieces to build up the 
 pattern, and saw them out. 
 
 Build the first course upon a piece of wood, say- 
 cherry or maple, 6" square. First with the com- 
 passes describe a circle ^" smaller than the inside 
 diameter of the jDattern. Place two of the seg- 
 ments upon the block with their ends touching 
 and their inside edges coinciding with the circle, 
 Fig. 35. Fasten them to the block temporarily 
 with four small brads, and saw through the Joint 
 carefully with the back-saw, Fig. 35. If, after 
 removing the brads and bringing the ends up 
 together again they do not fit accurately run the 
 saw through a second time. If the pieces are 
 marked and sawn out carefully from the template, 
 they ought to fit after running the saw through 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 the Joint the first time. Fit all the Joints in the 
 same manner. The last segment may be a little 
 long, so that as it is brought up to the circle, 
 Fig. 36, it will need sawing two or three times 
 through the Joint to make the edge and the circle 
 agree. Upon the block as a foundation the seg- 
 
PATTEBN-MAEING. 57 
 
 ments of the first course are to be glued, each one 
 being glued on its side face to the base-board and 
 its end to its next segment. 
 
 The segments of the second course are glued to 
 the first in the same manner, but breaking joints, 
 that is, with the joints opposite the middles of the 
 pieces of the first course, as in Fig. 34, so that 
 alternate joints will lie in the same plane. Fit 
 and glue up in this manner a sufficient number of 
 courses to make the pattern of the proper length. 
 
 When the glue is thoroughly dry turn and fin- 
 ish the pattern, very much the same as you did 
 the cup or card-receiver. Make allowance for 
 shrinkage, etc., as in the preceding exercise in pat- 
 tern-turning. After it has been turned and fin- 
 ished cut out the lugs. Fig. 36, with the back- 
 and compass-saws to make the casting as light as 
 possible. The lugs are used to bolt the casting 
 to the face-plate of the engine-lathe, in a later 
 exercise. 
 
58 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 LESSON VII. 
 
 B E A 8 S - T U E N I K G . 
 
 The methods and processes in brass-turning are 
 similar to those in wood-turning, but the tools 
 used are held more firmly on the hand-rest, because 
 brass is much harder than wood. The same speed 
 may be used as in turning hard woods, and also 
 some of the tools used, first softening them a little 
 by lowering the temper to a straw color. The 
 top-rake also, if there is any, must be ground off, 
 because the advantage gained by the top-rake in 
 assisting the tool to cut freely is more than coun- 
 terbalanced by its tendency to dig into the work, 
 spoiling it, and often breaking the point of the 
 tool. 
 
 You have learned by experience that it is ahnost 
 impossible to turn woodwork absolutely true with 
 the chisel without having first used the gouge or 
 a similar tool in roughing out and turning it true 
 and nearly of the required dimensions. As the 
 flatter-tool in blacksmithing, the smoothing- 
 plane in carpentry, and the chisel in wood-turning 
 
BBASS-TUnNlNa. 59 
 
 are used for finishing, and not for roughing out, 
 so in metal-working, the broad finishing-tool 
 should be preceded by a roughing-out tool. Such 
 roughing-out tool is most commonly the gi'aver. 
 
 This is made from a bar of square steel or an 
 old square file, by grinding the end obliquely to 
 
 
 <s 
 
 Fig. 37. 
 
 form the cutting edges a, a. B is the heel of the 
 tool, used as pivot, and rests on the T as a fulcrum. 
 For parallel turning the straight flat-faced tool 
 (Fig. 38) is the best. The lower surface, shown 
 in elevation at c, is round, the upper, h, is flat, not 
 
 J* 
 
 Z? <= 
 
 Fig. 88. 
 
 hollow as in the gouge for wood-turning. The 
 cutting edge may be round-nosed or diamond- 
 shaped. The method of holding and operating 
 the tool is to grasp the handle in the right hand 
 and place the tool on the top of the T, holding it 
 down with the thumb of the left hand, with the 
 fingers round the socket of the rest, as in Fig. 39. 
 
60 
 
 THE 8PEBD-LATBE. 
 
 The top of the T must be smooth, so that the 
 tool may slide along freely. Adjust the T so 
 that when the tool is upon it, resting on the 
 heel B, in a horizontal position, the cutting edge 
 shall be on a level with, or a little below, the cen- 
 
 - Pig. 39. 
 
 tre of the work, certainly not above it. The tool 
 is then moved along to the left, held down, and 
 guided by the thumb of the left hand. 
 
 From a piece of brass tubing provided for this 
 exercise, cut off with the metal-saw a piece for a 
 Exercise 20. feri'ule ouc iuch long. Remove the 
 A ferrule. Iq^yt from the iuside edge with a 
 
 Use of the i tp n m -i • 
 
 graver. scrapcr or a half-round file. With the 
 
 graver ground sufficiently sharp to turn wood, 
 mount and turn the file-handle to fit the ferrule 
 tight, drive the ferrule on about two thirds of the 
 
BRASS-TUBNING. 
 
 61 
 
 way up to the slioulder, and with the graver face 
 off the end square. The parting or square-nosed 
 tool might be used here, but it is better to learn 
 to face with the graver, thus avoiding loss of time 
 in changing tools. Cut with the broad face of the 
 tool, with one of the top faces resting upon the 
 hand-rest, as in Fig. 40. Scrape off the burr made 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 by the hand-tool, and if the end is true reverse 
 the ferrule, drive it up to the shoulder, and face 
 off the other end. 
 
 The tool can be used as a roughing-, a finishing-, 
 and a facing-tool. To use it as a roughing-tool to 
 turn and true up the ferrule, grip the handle in 
 your right hand with the knuckles below, and 
 with the left grasp the tool close to the hand-rest, 
 holding the edge or heel JB fii-mly to the face of 
 the T, with the knuckles on top. The work can 
 be turned veiy true and parallel if proper care 
 be taken to make the point of the tool move in a 
 line parallel to the axis of the lathe. This can 
 be accomplished by means of two motions of rota- 
 tion which ai^e to be made together : First. If 
 
62 
 
 TBE SPESD-LATHE. 
 
 the tool be turned around the heel B, which is 
 resting in a horizontal position on the T rest, the 
 point will be carried round the circumference of 
 a small vertical circle, reaching its highest point 
 
 when it has described half 
 
 the semi-circumference of 
 
 the circle. As this rotation 
 
 brings the cutting point 
 
 nearer to the horizontal 
 
 plane through the axis of 
 
 the work (it was below this 
 
 plane in the beginning), it 
 
 will cut more and more 
 
 deeply till it reaches its 
 
 highest point, and then again less and less deeply. 
 
 "With this movement alone, therefore, it would be 
 
 impossible to cut a cylindrical surface. 
 
 Second. If the tool be turned round a vertical 
 axis at the point where the heel B touches the rest, 
 the cutting point will describe a portion of the cir- 
 cumference of a horizontal circle, coming nearest to 
 the axis of the work at the moment when the 
 tool is perpendicular to the axis of the lathe. This 
 
BBA88-TURNING. 63 
 
 movement also, by itself, would cut a groove in 
 the work, instead of turning it to a cylindrical 
 surface. 
 
 Let these two movements be called the vertical 
 and the horizontal movement respectively, and let 
 each be divided into two halves. During the first 
 half of the vertical movement the depth of the cut 
 increases, and during the second it deci'eases. Dui- 
 ing the first part of the horizontal movement the 
 depth of the cut increases (the hand being carried 
 from right to left, and therefore the cutting point 
 from left to right), and during the second it de- 
 creases. If, therefore, the second half of the hori- 
 zontal movement be commenced simultaneously 
 with the first half of the vertical movement, and 
 this same horizontal movement be reversed during 
 the second half of the vertical movement, it will be 
 possible so to adjust the rates of the two as to 
 cause the cutting point to move in a straight line 
 and cut a cylindrical surface. 
 
 Practise the two movements separately, holding 
 the cutting point at a short distance from the work, 
 so as not to cut. Then, in the same way, practise 
 them in combination. Lastly, apply the point 
 to the work and, taking very light cuts at first, 
 turn the surface truly cylindrical. As the ferrule 
 is thin and might be cut through in practising, it 
 will be best to turn, first, a solid cylinder. 
 
 From a piece of \" round brass rod turn a 
 
64 THE 8PBED-LATEE. 
 
 cylinder true and parallel. First screw on the 
 Exercise 21. chuck. Kemember tte precautions 
 Practice with ^q \yQ taken in screwing on the face- 
 tooL^'^seof plats, and use the same, and if pos- 
 the chuck. sible greater care, with the chuck, par- 
 ticularly if the chuck is a loose rather than 
 a close fit on the spindle and offers no resist- 
 ance. There is even more risk in the case of the 
 chuck than in that of the face-plate of bringing it 
 up to the shoulder too quickly and jamming it, for 
 the reason that it is heavier, and has, therefore, 
 more momentum. 
 
 The chuck is a very delicate tool, easily injured 
 and made useless for accurate work ; hence very 
 great pains should be taken to screw it on and off 
 the spindle carefully. As the chuck approaches 
 the shoulder of the spindle bring it up into contact 
 gently, and without using undue force. If it is 
 jammed too tight it will be difficult to remove it 
 without injuring the lathe, and besides the thread 
 of the chuck may ride up on that of the spindle and 
 one or both be damaged. 
 
 A piece of round brass half an inch thick and 
 3" long is provided, from which to turn a cylin- 
 der f" in diameter and \\" long with the graver- 
 tool. 
 
 Fasten the piece of brass in the chuck with the 
 end projecting about 2" from the jaws of the 
 chuck, and with the centring-tool centre the end. 
 
BRASS- TUBNINO. 
 
 65 
 
 The centring-tool is made by grinding the end of 
 an old saw-iile at an angle equal to the angle of the 
 lathe-centre, as shown in figure 43. The edge a 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
 and not J and c being the cutting part, the edges 
 h and c are purposely ground off a little so that 
 
 ^ '4. 
 
 Fig. 43. 
 
 only one edge, a, shall cut. Bore a hole with an awl 
 or make a mark with a centre-punch at the end of 
 the handle and the tool will be ready for use. 
 
 Set the T rest about \" from the end of the 
 work and at right angles to the axis of the work. 
 The end of the work must be faced „ 
 
 Exercise 22. 
 
 quite true, if not so already. Place centring 
 the point of the tool at the end and as ^j*** ^^^ ^en- 
 near the centre of the work as you are 
 able to judge, and slide the tail-stock down to it 
 till the tail-centre enters the centre in the handle of 
 the tool and the tool is suspended between the brass 
 
66 THE aPEED-LATHE. 
 
 and the centre. Adjust the height of the T rest 
 so that when the flat face d is rested upon it with 
 the edge and corner a up, the point shall be about 
 -gnj-" below the centie. 
 
 Grasp the handle in your left hand, start the 
 lathe in motion, and you will feel the tool wabble 
 or rotate a little if the point is not exactly at the 
 centre of the work. To stop this eccentric mo- 
 tion and to centre the work perfectly true requires 
 some skill in handling the tool. The tail-centre 
 being placed in the hole in the end of the wooden 
 handle, hold the tool with the flat face down and 
 parallel to the top of the T rest, but not touching 
 it. When the point has entered the metal about 
 ylg-" steady the tool upon the rest by allowing 
 the tool to turn till one of its edges touches the 
 T. The corner being supported upon the T rest 
 as a fulcrum and the edges at h and c being 
 rounded off, leaving but one edge a to cut, the 
 tool has a tendency to feed itself in towards the 
 centre. It is necessary, therefore, to do this very 
 carefully and retain complete control over the tool 
 to prevent its chattering or springing into the 
 work. 
 
 Hold the corner of the tool as just described 
 firmly on the rest, and feed the tool in slowly till 
 a true centre is obtained, which will be the case 
 when this rotary movement of the tool ceases. 
 Now remove the centring-tool and support the 
 
BBASS-TUBNING. 
 
 67 
 
 piece between the chuck and the dead-centre. Set 
 the rest at a convenient distance (about |") from 
 the work. 
 
 Adjust the height of the rest so that when the 
 graver is resting upon it and held in the proper 
 position the point shall be on a level with the point 
 of the dead-centre. 
 
 Run at a moderate speed, with the belt on the 
 middle step of the cone. As in wood-turning, 
 so in brass-work, all play which may have re- 
 sulted from the wearing away of the metal at the 
 centre should be taken up. There is danger if you 
 
 Fig. 44. 
 
 cut too deep, or if the work is loose in the centre, 
 ef having the tool Jerked out of your hand, or 
 forcing the work out of the centre, spoiling the 
 centre, and sometimes breaking off the point of the 
 centre. 
 
 When you have turned your work true and par- 
 allel with the point of the graver finish it smooth 
 
08 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 with the same tool, cutting and scraping with the 
 broad face of the tool. 
 
 In using the graver thus as a finishing- tool, to cut 
 smoothly place the heel of the tool upon the T 
 and slide the tool along. The edges a, a, Fig. 43, 
 will do the cutting. The same tool may be used 
 as a scraper or as a cutting-tool, according to 
 the manner in which it is held upon the rest and 
 applied to the work. 
 
 Fig. 44 shows at A and B the two positions of 
 the tool, as cutter and as scraper respectively. 
 
 For further practice with the graver, reverse the 
 piece in the chuck and turn the end to a conical 
 Exercise 23. form, as nearly to the angle of the 
 Taper turn- lathe-centre as you can judge by the 
 ing. A cone. ^^^^ ^^^ ^j^^j^ pcmove the centre and 
 
 turn to a fine point to fit the centre-gauge. 
 
 Remove the chuck, mount the file-handle be- 
 tween centres, and finish the ferrule with the 
 graver, file, and emery-paper. 
 
 Cut off a piece of \" round brass 2\" long. 
 Exercise 24. Scrcw ou the chuck carefuUy, Grip 
 An ou-hoie the piece of brass in the chuck, with 
 ^"®' the end projecting out far enough 
 
 to allow the work to be turned and finished. 
 
 For all light turning, if the work does not pro- 
 ject too far from the face of the chuck, the centre 
 may be dispensed with, which will give more 
 room. Work as close to the chuck as possible. 
 
BBASS-TURNINQ. 
 
 69 
 
 Fig. 45. 
 
 and with the graver-tool turn and fit the plug to 
 the hole in the cap of the brass bearing of the 
 lathe-spindle. Rough out as 
 in the last exercise with the 
 point of the tool and face 
 down the shoulder a as in the 
 ferrule exercise. As in the 
 ring exercise in wood turning, so in this case finish 
 
 all you can of 
 
 the knob or 
 ball before 
 cutting it off. 
 With the 
 round-nose 
 tool turn out 
 the fillet h to 
 the proper 
 depth. 
 
 For V e r y 
 delicate light 
 turning, and even in this case, the 
 graver-tool may be used, held 
 firmly against the hand -rest, with 
 the corner opposite the heel in- 
 stead of the heel itself serving as a 
 fulcrum, with the fingers of the 
 left hand round the T, or better, 
 the stem of the hand-rest, and the 
 
 Fig, 46. 
 
 thumb pressed down on top of the tool to steady 
 
^0 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 and guide it. The tool held in this position 
 serves as a cutting-tool, and if not gripped firmly 
 is more likely to dig into the work than when 
 applied in the reverse position and used as a 
 scraper. With the tool in the position shovi^n, 
 finish and cut ofi the plug. Grip the small end 
 in the chuck and finish the ball. 
 
 From the piece of brass left in the last exercise 
 turn the binding-post and screw, Fig. 47, to dimen- 
 Exercise 25. sions. Tum and finish up with the 
 A binding- p-paver and round-nose tool, as in the 
 
 post. Turning, ° . . ' . 
 
 last exercise, and with the knurling- 
 tool mill the ends. This tool is a 
 little roller or knurl, revolving on a 
 hardened-steel pin between the ja\vs 
 of the holder. On this roller teeth are cut 
 similar to the teeth of a file. With each holder 
 several knurls are furnished, differing in form 
 and cut or pitch, and from these one can be 
 
 milling, drill- 
 ing, tapping, 
 and threading 
 vrith stock 
 and die. 
 
 selected best adapted to the work. In this par- 
 ticular case the plain disk may be used. 
 
 Hold the tool firmly supported on the hand-rest. 
 Adjust the rest for height and distance from the 
 
BBASS-TURNING. 
 
 71 
 
 m/ 
 
 work so that when the tool is resting upon it 
 
 and held in a horizontal position the 
 
 centre of the knurl shall be below 
 
 the centre of the Avork, cutting 
 
 under rather than above the Avork. 
 
 Examine the tool before using it. The 
 
 cutter should revolve freely and not 
 
 bind when applied to the work, and it 
 
 must be oiled frequently. Start the 
 
 lathe in motion and apply the tool, 
 
 pressing the tool upward as a lever 
 
 rather than directly thrusting it against 
 
 the work. This pressure against the 
 
 soft brass will reproduce the teeth cut 
 
 on the knurl. 
 
 Centre with the hand centring-tool, 
 and drillahole 1" deep in the end of the piece with 
 a drill whose diameter is equal to that of the bottom 
 of the thread on the tap to be used. The Exercise 26. 
 hole is then called a tapping-hole and Centring and 
 the drill a tapping drill. Fasten this '^""'''^■ 
 drill in the drill-chuck provided for the purpose. 
 This chuck is self-centring. It is attached to a 
 mandrel which fits the hole in the spindle, and in 
 the end of the mandrel is a centre. There is inside 
 of the chuck a revolving disk with a coil or thread 
 cut upon its inside surface and a corresponding 
 thread on the surface of the Jaws. To open or 
 close the Jaws it is only necessary to turn this disk 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
72 
 
 TEE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 by means of a steel pin inserted in a hole provided 
 for this purpose. The point of the drill being 
 placed in the centre made in the metal by the 
 centring-tool, and the tail-centre being inserted in 
 
 DcdC 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
 the end of the mandrel, the drill is then pressed 
 forward with the dead-centre by the right hand, 
 while the chuck is gripped with the left to prevent 
 it and the drill from turning. 
 
 You have learned from your experience in 
 drilling with the common flat drill, the most sim- 
 ple in form, the necessity of entering the metal 
 very carefully at first, till a depth sufficient to 
 drill a cavity the full diameter of the drill has 
 been cut, After this has been done the tool is not 
 so apt to run or spring away from its cut, as it is 
 supported all round by the metal. If the drill has 
 entered this depth without springing away from 
 its centre, and is true, it may be fed in to the 
 proper depth, 1". 
 
 This drill is called a twist-drill from the fact of 
 
BRABS-TURNlNa. 73 
 
 its having two helices cut from end to end. It is 
 very nearly round and cylindrical, being only very 
 slightly tapering from the cutting end to the 
 shank, and the diameter is ground away at a, a a 
 short distance from behind the cutting edge to 
 give clearance. The advantages of this drill are 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 that it always runs true, and if it breaks requires 
 no forging or tempering. It offers very little re- 
 sistance in cutting, but time must be given for the 
 drill to cut and for the dirt or shavings to escape, 
 otherwise it will heat and lose its temper and 
 possibly break. 
 
 The tap is a very delicate tool, while the drill 
 is considered one of the strongest. Taps are 
 used to cut the threads of nuts. They are 
 of two kinds, machine and hand-taps. The ad- 
 vantage the machine-tap has over the hand-tap 
 is that all the cutting can be done with one tap, 
 without the necessity of backing or unscrewing it 
 to free the cuttings, thus saving much time. In 
 order to accomplish this the machine-tap is made 
 much longer. The threaded end is turned with a 
 long taper (Fig. 51). The end at a is turned a 
 little smaller than the core or bottom of the thread 
 
14: TEE 8PBED-LATBE. 
 
 at 1), and the end c is squared to receive a socket 
 or wi'ench. Between b and c is the shank, which 
 is also turned down to the diameter of the bottom 
 of the thread and left. long to receive the nuts. 
 This long taper allows the tap to cut free and 
 easily. If this tap is screwed through the hole in 
 the nut or piece of work a full thread will be 3ut 
 and the work passed along to the shank, which is 
 made long for the purpose. When a sufficient 
 
 Fig. 51. 
 
 amount of work has been tapped to fill the shank 
 the machine is stopped, the work removed, and the 
 shank again filled if necessary. 
 
 When the hole to be tapped has a bottom (as in 
 this exercise or as in the case of the holes in the 
 head- and the tail-stocks which receive the cap- 
 screws to hold down the brass bearings) and the 
 tap cannot be screwed through, hand-taps must be 
 used. 
 
 Hand-taps for general use (above ^" in diame- 
 ter) are made in sets, three taps generally forming 
 a set, and called the taper, plug, and bottoming 
 taps. The first tap (Fig. 52, A) is made tapering 
 almost from end to end, the end, as in the ma- 
 chine-tap, being of the same size as the hole to 
 
BRASS-TURNING. 75 
 
 be tapped or the bottom of the thread. The 
 second or plug tap, which follows the taper tap, 
 is also turned tapering, but only for a short dis- 
 tance — a distance about equal to the diameter of 
 the hole to be tapped or in some cases about the 
 diameter of the tap. The third or bottoming tap 
 (Fig. 52, -B) is left cylindrical the whole length 
 of the threaded part. 
 
 To form the cutting edges or teeth the tap is 
 
 Fig. 52. 
 
 made with four (in some cases only three) grooves 
 cut the whole length of the threaded end. The 
 cutters or teeth, like the cutters of the twist- 
 drill, are backed off a little with a file, or in the 
 machine, to give clearance and reduce the fric- 
 tion. 
 
 As the tap must retain its size and shape with- 
 out being easily dulled by use, it is hardened to a 
 very high temper. All taps are made to standard 
 sizes and of uniform pitch, so that the bolts and 
 nuts are interchangeable. The pitch is the dis- 
 tance between two threads measured parallel to 
 the axis of the tap. 
 
1Q THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 The section of the thread for all small taps and 
 those for general use is V-shaped, while for large 
 taps it is square. 
 
 The friction, the depth of thread and the rake 
 given to the teeth (which is the amount of incli- 
 nation of the thread to a perpendicular to the axis 
 of the tap), the high temper necessary to prevent 
 wear, and the twisting or torsional strain to which 
 the tap is subjected make this a very delicate 
 tool and one very apt to break unless great care 
 is taken in using it. After some experience you 
 will be able to Judge by the feeling while using 
 the tap whether it is cutting freely, or whether, 
 if the cutting is continued the tap will break, and 
 will learn to manage it accordingly. 
 
 To tap the hole in this exercise, be very careful 
 as you approach the bottom of the hole, not to al- 
 low the tap to touch ; if it does, the slightest 
 turn farther will break it. 
 
 To tap the hole proceed as follows : Hold the 
 tap in the little adjustable wrench provided for 
 Exercise 27. Small taps, and with the tail-centre in 
 Tapping. i\^q gj^j of ^jjg "wrench hold it up to 
 
 the tail-centre in the same manner as in the 
 drilling exercise, except that no pressure must be 
 put on the tap, the object being only to guide it 
 and keep it horizontal. Allow the tap to play 
 a little in the centre. Turn the tap back oc- 
 casionally (by unscrewing it a little) to free it 
 
BRASS-TUBNINa. 
 
 17 
 
 from the cuttings and dirt, and it will cut better 
 and will not be so apt to break. Follow np 
 the tap with the tail-centre as it is fed in, and 
 when it has been run in very nearly to the 
 bottom of the hole it may be backed out, wiped 
 off, and put away. 
 
 Mark out and drill the hole for the wire. First, 
 mark with the tool a ring aa round the middle of 
 
 Fig. 53. 
 
 the post dividing it into two equal parts, before 
 taking it out of the chuck. With a centre-punch 
 mark two centres exactly opposite each other, one 
 for the drill and one for the tail-centre. Remove 
 the chuck from the lathe and also the work, from 
 the chuck. With the proper-sized drill fastened 
 in the drill-chuck and with the chuck inserted in 
 the hole of the lathe-spindle hold the work up to 
 the tail-centre, with the point of the drill in one 
 centre-punch mark and the tail-centre in the 
 
78 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 other. Push the drill in very carefully about half- 
 way through, then reverse it, and with the hole 
 now held up to the tail-centre and the punch- 
 mark placed accurately to the point of the drill 
 cut through, meeting the first hole. At this point 
 great care must be taken to avoid bieaking the 
 drill, as it has a tendency to feed itself in. It 
 must be held back at this point of the drilling, 
 rather than pushed forward. 
 
 Before cutting off and finishing the binding- 
 post grip it again in the lathe-chuck, with the 
 ends reversed, and centre, turn, and finish the 
 screw. 
 
 Fig. 54. 
 
 To turn the screw and cut the thread, first 
 turn the head to the proper form and dimensions. 
 Rough out the end for the screw-blank to within 
 ^" of the size of the tap, and while the work is 
 between centre and chuck, Fig. 54, mill the head 
 with the knurling-tool, as in the last exercise. 
 
BRASS-TURNING. 
 
 79 
 
 Kemove the tail-centre and finish the blank for 
 the screw-thread, ^vhich should be no Exercise 28. 
 larger, but rather smaller, if anything, Threading, 
 than the size of the tap, as the metal .i 34^^,,^ ^^^ 
 enlarges or swells a little in cutting. die." 
 
 The thread is cut with a tool called a stock and 
 die, the stock being simply a holder sei'ving the 
 same purpose as the wrench does for the tap. 
 The die in this case is a small disk made of steel 
 about J" in diameter and |" thick (shown, en- 
 larged, in Fig. 55). The steel is first annealed 
 
 Fig. 55. 
 
 and a tapping-hole drilled through its centre. 
 It is then chamfei'ed and tapped, very much 
 as in the binding-post exercise, except that a 
 hob or master tap, as it is often called, is used 
 instead of the regular tap. The hob is a much 
 stronger tool. The teeth are not backed off, as in 
 the tap, but more grooves are cut along the axis 
 of the tool. There are no standard sizes and no 
 
80 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 uniformity of pitch, as in the taps. Some hobs 
 Avith a large diameter have a fine pitch, and some 
 have no screw at all, but simply a series of rings. 
 Hobs are special tools, and are used only for 
 making tools, such as dies, chasei'S, etc. 
 
 After the disk has been tapped, three or four 
 holes are drilled very close to the thread and the 
 metal between them and the central hole removed 
 with a file to form the cutting edges. To file up 
 the cutting edges properly, so that each one shall 
 do its share of the work, requires much skill and 
 thought. One edge must be filed back, as in the 
 tap, to give clearance, and also to prevent the 
 teeth from breaking off while unscrewing the die, 
 and the other edge is filed up to form the teeth. 
 It should also be filed so that the die can start 
 square and so make a true thread. To do this 
 the cutting edges are made to follow one after the 
 other, each one cutting a little deeper than the 
 one which preceded it. This should be done by 
 filing away all the fractional part of the first 
 thread so that the cutting face is one full thread ; 
 careful examination of the dies in the shop will 
 make this clear. Some dies are so poorly cut and 
 filed that instead of cutting the metal smooth 
 and clean they press it out, making a veiy weak 
 thread, " drunken," or not straight, and often strip 
 the thread off, leaving a blank of the diameter of 
 the core or bottom of the thread on the tap. 
 
BRASa-TVRNlNa. 
 
 81 
 
 Dies for general use are made in two halves or 
 parts and fitted so as to slide together in a stock, 
 but the die foi" this exercise is 
 a small disk filed or milled 
 half-way through (Fig. 56), so 
 that it may be adjusted to cut a 
 screw slightly larger or smaller 
 than the tap, and the screw 
 may thus be made to fit the 
 tapped hole tight or loose. 
 This is done by springing the 
 die by means of three small 
 screws in the stock. Fig. 56. 
 
 To cut the thread, open the 
 die about as far as the stock 
 will allow by turning the screw 
 A toward the right and £ and 
 toward the left. Hold the 
 die up to the end of the work 
 and turn it towards the right, 
 holding and leading it as 
 straight as possible. Use the 
 same care as in tapping, to 
 bring the die up to. the head 
 of the screw very cautiously 
 and without touching it, as 
 otherwise you are likely to 
 break off the screw, strip the thread, or crack the 
 die. Remove the die by unscrewing it and try 
 
82 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 the tapped piece of brass or a little brass nut 
 tapped for the purpose and to be used as a gauge, 
 and if it is too tight, spring the ends of the die 
 together by unscrewing first the adjusting-screw 
 A (turning it towards the left) and turning the 
 screws B and C toward the right, which will press 
 or contract the die, causing it to cut deeper the 
 second time it is run over the thread. The points 
 of the screws are conical and the die is pierced 
 to receive them, so that to expand or open the 
 die it is only necessary to unscrew the adjusting- 
 screws B and O and to turn the screw A in, thus 
 forcing the conical point forward between the two 
 parts of the die and opening it. 
 
 Take a sufficient number of cuts over the 
 screw-blank to fit the screw to the gauge easy 
 without shake. Cut off the screw with the 
 parting or square-nosed tool and finish the binding- 
 post to the proper length before removing it from 
 the chuck. 
 
 Grip the screw lightly in the chuck, protecting 
 the thread with paper, or, better, screw the head 
 well up into the binding-post or nut, fasten the 
 latter true in the chuck, and with the graver and 
 emery-paper finish it smooth. 
 
 To make a duplicate of the binding-post from 
 an end-piece of brass left over, fii'st face off the 
 ends to the proper length, centre, drill, and tap, as 
 in the last exercise. Then remove the brass from 
 
BBASS-TURNINO. 83 
 
 the chuck and replace it by a piece of soft-steel wire 
 having about the same diameter as the tap or bind- 
 ing-screw. True up the end and file it to the ex- 
 act size if it is too large. Thread |" of the length 
 of the wire and screw the piece of brass on it, but 
 only so far that the end of the wire shall not pro- 
 ject, but shall remain about \" inside of the brass, 
 leaving room for the point of the tail-centre. You 
 will find in this exercise that without the tail-cen- 
 tre inserted in the hole of the brass as described 
 it would not be practicable to turn it. Attempt 
 to turn it and you will find it impossible, and will 
 thus impress on your mind the principle already 
 learned in the previous exercises, that to protect 
 the lathe and to do accurate work the Exercise 29. 
 tail-centre must certainly be used use of chaser, 
 whenever it is possible to do so. ^thth" 
 Bring up the tail-centre and finish as chaser, 
 you did in the last exercise, with the centre in the 
 hole of the brass. With a piece of \" round 
 brass 2^" long, mounted in the chuck, centre, face 
 and chamfer the end with the graver-tool. It will 
 not be necessary in the first lesson to true or turn 
 off any of the metal with the graver, as, if ac- 
 curately centred, it will be qiiite true enough for 
 practice-work with the chaser-tools. The object 
 in not turning it true at first is to save time and 
 material. 
 
 Now try to cut a thi'ead over it, one inch long. 
 
84 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 The chaser-tool is held up to the work in about 
 the same manner as the first tool in brass-work for 
 roughing and turning the metal. Grasping the 
 handle in your right hand with the knuckles un- 
 der, and not on top, hold the tool down firmly to 
 the rest, and in a horizontal position, with the 
 left hand. Adjust the T so that the top or face 
 of the cutting edge shall be on a line with the axis 
 of the lathe-centres when it is held in this hori- 
 zontal position. Now with the first and second 
 fingers round the socket of the T or rest and the 
 thumb pressing down on top, give the handle 
 a circular movement, the point directly under the 
 thumb serving as a pivot. The movement, with 
 the exception of the twisting and raising of the 
 handle, is very much the same as the circular move- 
 ment given to the graver-tool. 
 
 To start the thread, commence first at the very 
 end, holding the tool as just described (horizon- 
 tal) up to the end of the work, and with this cir- 
 cular movement, and only a little sliding movement 
 or even none, use the tool as if it were pivoted on 
 the T rest. Cut a sci-ew with the middle part of 
 the chasei- (an expert will cut this first thread with 
 the graver). With a true track for the thread 
 started at the end it will not be difficult to lead 
 off the first trail for the thread straight and true, 
 as the pitch of the chaser will trace its own track. 
 Avoid (as you are now giving the tool a sliding 
 
BRASS-TURNINQ. 
 
 85 
 
 motion parallel to the axis of the lathe) sliding 
 the tool too quickly. If the track for the thread 
 be coarser than the pitch on the chaser too much 
 sliding motion has been given to the tool, and the 
 reverse is, of course, true if the pitch is finer. 
 
 Fig. 67. 
 
 The left-handed screw shown in Fig. 57 would 
 be more difficult to cut than a right-handed one. 
 The cutting would begin near the chuck, and with 
 the corner of the chaser instead of the middle. 
 
 If you find it difiicult to master this uniform 
 sliding motion, which is necessary in order to cut 
 a straight thread, or if the thread is drunken, 
 fasten in the chuck a piece of |" round iron 
 threaded at one end and practice, allowing the 
 
86 TME SPEEDLATEE. 
 
 chaser to trail along on the thread, and as the tool 
 is carried along on the rest observe the sliding 
 motion and try to give the same motion to the 
 tool when applying it to your work. 
 
 Cut over with the tool (keeping in the same trail) 
 as often as it is necessary to cut it to the required 
 depth. The proper depth has been reached when 
 the top of the thread is sharp. 
 
 To turn and fit a thread to a standard f " use 
 Exercise 30. the Same piece of brass. Turn off the 
 Cutting a piece to the diameter of the tap and 
 
 standard ^ ^ 
 
 thread. to the length proposed. 
 
 Turn it with the point of the graver and finish 
 in the same manner as in Exercise 28. Cut a thread 
 on this with the chaser, to fit the thread in the nut, 
 so that it can be screAved on easily by hand. To 
 withdraw the chaser at the end of each cut with- 
 out touching the shoulder or injuring the thread 
 will require skill, which you will acquire by prac- 
 tice. 
 
 To cut a thread with an inside chaser fasten in 
 the chuck the disk or piece of brass intended for a 
 
 Exercise 31 ^^^» ^^^^ ^'^'^ Centre it, and drill a f " 
 Gutting an in- tappiug-holc through it. Chamfer and 
 aide thread. ^^^^^ ^g ^^^ comer with the graver. 
 
 To start a true thread on this corner use the 
 chaser in very much the same manner as jovl would 
 a scraper or a file. To round off the corner with 
 a file you will first hold the file at an angle and 
 
BRASS-TURNING. 
 
 87 
 
 then gradually bring it round till it becomes 
 parallel with the axis of the work. This motion, 
 if properly performed with the chaser, will trace 
 a thread on the cornei". Then, with the chaser sup- 
 ported upon the hand-rest and the cutting edge or 
 teeth held parallel to the inside diameter of the 
 hole, trace and finish the thread. 
 
 Fia. 58. 
 
 Use the same precaution in tracing the first cut 
 for the thread as you did with the outside chaser. 
 Hold the tool up to and inside the hole, touching it, 
 and with the thumb of the left hand draw the tool 
 up and slide it along carefully with both hands. 
 Fit it to the screw turned in the last exercise, 
 
88 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 Turn another screw as in Exercise 29, and before 
 cutting it off screw on the brass nut (Exercise 31) 
 and, using the screw as a mandrel, mill and finish 
 the nut. 
 
 To turn and fit a cylinder or plug by means of 
 inside and outside gauges, a method called a " cut- 
 „ . „ and-try" fit, you must be provided with 
 
 Exercise 32. ~ •' . , . 
 
 Use of inside a cylmder fitting exactly m a cyhn- 
 and outside drical hole. Set the outside calipers 
 ipers. ^^ ^j^^ cylinder or plug and turn your 
 
 work down till it is as near the size of the 
 duplicate or gauge as you can measure with 
 the calipers. Try the work in the hollow cyl- 
 inder and turn off and try again until an easy 
 
 Fig. 59. 
 
 fit without shake is obtained. Then cut off and 
 recentre. Having fitted one cylinder to the hole 
 in the disk by repeated trials, fit another one with- 
 out trying the two pieces before they are finished, 
 depending only upon calipers for the fit. The 
 accuracy of your work will depend very much on 
 the manner of holding the calipers while setting 
 
BBASS-TUBNING. 
 
 89 
 
 them and while applying them to the work after 
 they are set. Read the lesson in Engine-lathe 
 Work on fitting with calipers. Finish and mill 
 the head or disk like the pattern. 
 
 Fig. 60. 
 
 For additional exercise make an oil -cup, Fig. 
 59, and a glove-powder box, Fig. 60. These exer- 
 cises involve no new principles, and Exercise 33. 
 are not necessary except for prac- Practice- 
 tice. Use the common flat tool or the ^j^^ gj-^ver 
 graver-tool in this exercise, as in heavy and gouge, 
 brass- work or in steel- and iron-work. Hold the 
 knuckles below, the forefinger grasping the T, 
 and the other fingers the socket, as already ex- 
 plained. 
 
 Other exercises which will afford practice with 
 the gouge on both inside and outside work are 
 shown in Fig. 61. 
 
90 
 
 TEE SPEEB-LATEE. 
 
 LESSON VIII. 
 
 WOOD-TXJBNING. GOUGE-WOKK. 
 
 Our wood-turning exercises hitherto, including 
 even those on which concave surfaces have been 
 formed, as in the case of the file-handle (Fig. 18, 
 page 30), have been performed with the chisel. 
 There were two reasons for thus defernng the 
 introduction of the gouge : first, it is a dangerous 
 tool in the hands of a beginner, and even in those of 
 
 Fig. 61. 
 
 an expert, unless it is handled very carefully ; and 
 secondly, when the chisel is thoroughly mastered 
 much woi"k can be done with it for which the gouge 
 would otherwise be used, and thus time can be 
 saved. It is now, however, necessary to learn to use 
 the gouge. For this purpose we will turn a box or 
 
WOOB-TUBNINO. 
 
 91 
 
 cup, shown in Fig. 61. This is very much like 
 Exercise 13, page 37, and might be performed with 
 the chisel, though imperfectly aud with more diffi- 
 culty than that exercise, because of the under- 
 cutting at c. 
 
 Rough out between centres, as in the egg-cup 
 exercise, using the large and small gouge to rough 
 out the exterior, and leaving a little to Exercise 34. 
 finish up after the inside has been ^""^l , 
 finished, as in the first lessons. gouge. 
 
 One of the mistakes oftenest made in using the 
 gouge is to attempt to cut up an incline. Always 
 cut downwards, and turn the concave part of the 
 
 Fig. 
 
 gouge away from the surface you are cutting. 
 Finish the moulding aa and all you can of the 
 outside first, and then proceed to face and bore. 
 
 To face and bore, the position of the T is to 
 remain just as it would be for outside work, 
 
92 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 especially if the cavity to be cut is a shallow one ; 
 if deep, the T should be moved a little obliquely, 
 but not at right angles to the axis of the lathe, 
 as for other tools used in boring. Now if the 
 gouge is properly ground and has but one slope 
 ab, place it on the T with the hollow inclined 
 to the length of the T, and with the bevelled 
 face bearing flat against the end of the piece, 
 which has been already faced off square and true. 
 In this position the gouge of course cannot cut. 
 Still holding the gouge thus, move it up or down. 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
 so as to bring the cutting edge or point a to the 
 centre of the work. It will still refuse to cut. 
 Now swing the handle of the tool Just a little 
 toward your right, still keeping the point or cut- 
 ting edge a at the centre and still holding the con- 
 cave face towards the right. This movement will 
 cause the heel h to move a little from the surface, 
 and the point a to penetrate or dip in, cutting a 
 
WOOD-TURNING. 93 
 
 small cavity in the face. Now to cut deeper the 
 tool must be pushed in and over still a little farther 
 away from the centre, cutting on the farther side 
 rather than on the side of the centre nearest you. 
 This will perhaps become clear to you if you stop 
 your lathe and use the gouge as you would a carv- 
 ing-tool. This will give it about the movement 
 and the position it should have on the rest. You 
 would in this case naturally grasp the handle of 
 the tool in your right hand and the blade in your 
 left, and push the gouge a little from you, gradu- 
 ally raising the point or edge a (Fig. 63) and 
 turning or twisting the tool over and round toward 
 the right, till the concave part of the tool should 
 lie almost flat on the T, having made a quarter 
 turn. If the work had been revolving at the time 
 instead of being at rest a cavity would have been 
 cut all round the face, and not only one quarter of 
 the way round, as would have happened if the 
 work were at rest. Start the lathe running and 
 repeat this, pushing the gouge ahead, raising the 
 cutting edge and twisting the handle, and compel- 
 ling the tool to cut on the side farthest away from 
 you, repeating the operation until the proper 
 depth has been reached. It may be necessary to 
 move the T round obliquely in order to finish this 
 exercise. Deep holes cannot be cut with the gouge ; 
 a hole can be bored, but it cannot so easily be 
 enlarged. 
 
94 
 
 THE SPEED-LATER 
 
 First turn a true cylinder having the diameter 
 of the intended ball. "With a pai-ti'ng-tool turn 
 Exercise 35 down a quarter of an inch at the right- 
 Turning a hand end to the diameter of ^". Be- 
 baiibyhand. gimjing at the same end, lay off two 
 distances ch and ba equal to half the diameter 
 of the bail, and at the three points thus set off 
 mark lines round the circumference with a fine 
 
 Fig. 64 
 
 lead-pencil or the acute angle of the chisel. Sink 
 the parting-tool in at « and c (leaving part of the 
 line if possible) to a diameter of f " or so. The 
 faces thus formed should be parallel and the dis- 
 tance between them equal to the diameter of the 
 ball, the line l> being exactly midway between 
 the faces. Before cutting any deeper with the 
 parting-tool chamfer the ends off till, tested with 
 the calipers, the work measures the same across 
 ao, ac, Ih, and dd. Then cut off and chuck the 
 partly turned ball, with the line hb a little out- 
 side of the chuck, Fig. 65, and running perfectly 
 true. One half of the ball can now be finished. 
 
WOOD-TURNING. 
 
 95 
 
 Rough out the exterior first with the small gouge 
 and finish with the chisel or other scraping-tool, 
 cutting away half the breadth of the line bh. As 
 the ball is to be of a standard size, apply to it the 
 
 V^ B 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 
 gauge. Fig. 65, a piece of sheet brass about tV" 
 thick. Several such gauges are kept on hand to 
 be xised for this purpose, and sometimes a plate 
 or block of metal. Fig. 66, with a series of 
 
 PoOo 
 
 : 
 
 iiG. (iii. 
 
 holes accurately turned in it to test finished 
 balls. Having turned one half the ball true to 
 gauge, remove the chuck, push out the ball, and 
 make another chuck to receive and hold the fin- 
 ished part which has Just been turned. Hollow 
 out this second chuck so that the half ball will go 
 into it far enough to hold tightly, allowing the 
 
96 
 
 THE 8PBED-LAT3E. 
 
 angles to be turned off, the line h remaining out- 
 side a little distance from tlie face of the chuck, in 
 which it should be carefully set as before. Turn 
 this outer half in the same manner. The work 
 must gauge precisely the same at all points. Test 
 with calipers and gauge, including the ring-plate 
 if you have one, and mark with a pencil or with 
 the gauges themselves any little protuberances 
 found. These protuberances can all be removed 
 very quickly between female centres or blocks. 
 Fig. 67, having in each a small cavity or hollow 
 
 Pig. 67. 
 
 turned to receive the ball. The chuck-block h is 
 made fast to the face-plate, while the block a is 
 loose and held up to the ball by the dead-centre ; 
 this block or centre should be perfectly true, so 
 that the ball can be moved from one desired 
 position to another and always revolve concen- 
 trically. This is very slow work, and not so ac- 
 curate as with a lathe having special attachments 
 for the purpose, such as spherical slide-rests, etc., 
 and it requires much more skill. 
 
 Metal balls, used as valves in some pumps, are 
 
WOOB-TUBNING. 97 
 
 often turned and fitted to their seats by hand. To 
 save time the balls are cast two or more Exercise 36. 
 on a stem, so that they can be roughed ■*■ ™^*3i ^^i- 
 out to size and shape between the centres, after 
 which they are nicked and cut off with a metal- 
 saw, or if the nick is midway between two balls, 
 as at a, they can be broken off and the projections 
 filed off to fit the gauge. 
 
 The chucks are then prepared to fit the partly 
 finished balls, as in the last exercise, and the balls 
 are turned and finished in the same way as the 
 
 Pig. 68. 
 
 wooden ball. The ball, which should have been 
 turned very close to the form of the gauge and set 
 of calipers, is now chucked either in a chuck with 
 a hollow large and deep enough to receive about 
 one half of the ball and hold it firmly, or between 
 the shallow chuck and female centre, as described 
 in the last exercise. Now with a keenly sharp- 
 ened tool cut a little flat ring of a diameter exactly 
 equal to that of the ball. Turn the ball so that the 
 plane of the ring shall pass through the axis of 
 the lathe, and turn another band or ring at right 
 angles to the first, cutting down till it just touches 
 
98 THE 8PBED-LATEE. 
 
 the first ring. By thus turning the ball round a 
 few times in the chuck, so that the marks shall 
 cross and recrosa each other, cutting as many as 
 convenient, it will be easy to finish entirely by 
 hand, without the assistance of the ball-cutter, a 
 perfectly true ball, so that when it is ground to 
 its seat with glass, sand, or burnt foundry-sand, 
 and oil, it will be absolutely tight. 
 
OVAL TURJWfa. 99 
 
 LESSON IX. 
 
 OVAL TTTENING. 
 
 When two head- and tail-stocks from lathes of 
 the same size are mounted together temporarily on 
 one bed by means of a plate made for the purpose, 
 and with a long di'um or overhead gear, as it is 
 called, of the same length as the bed, the machine 
 thus produced is a " double-header," Fig. 69. It 
 will have two cones and two dead-spindles. This 
 allows you to place any piece of work between one 
 pair of centres without disturbing that mounted in 
 the other. Different speeds also can be obtained, 
 comparatively slow in one and fast in the other, 
 one mandrel or centre revolving say at 25 and the 
 other at 250 revolutions per minute, and both 
 turning in the same direction or, if one belt is 
 crossed, in opposite directions. 
 
 The work to be turned is, of course, mounted 
 between the front-centres. The tool may be a 
 rapidly revolving disk h, carrying one or several 
 cutters, and driven by the overhead drum. The 
 shape or form of the cutters is made to suit the 
 special kind of work. The disk is carried in a 
 slide moving in and out, to and from the centre, 
 
100 
 
 TSE BPEED-LATBB. 
 
 perpendicularly to the axis of the lathe. The 
 cutter is pulled up toward the centre by a weight 
 or spiral spring, and moved along the bed by a 
 screw or lever. Now the pattern of an axe- 
 
 Fro. 69. 
 
 handle or any oval piece of work is mounted be- 
 tween the back-centres and the proper speed 
 given to it, which in this case must be the same 
 as that of the work to be turned. 
 
 The two mandrels, one driving the pattern and 
 one the work to be turned, are revolved. A 
 pulley a, having the same diameter and form as 
 
OVAL TURNING. 101 
 
 the cutter h, is fastened to the slide, and is held in 
 contact with the pattern by a weight or spring, 
 not shown in the figure. As this oval pattern re- 
 volves, it pushes the slide and the cutter out and 
 further away from the centre, and as it continues 
 to revolve the weight or spriog draws the slide 
 back toward the centre again. The pulley is thus 
 kept close to and bearing against the pattern, 
 and if the cutting edge of 
 the cutter or disk and the 
 form aod circumference of 
 the pulley are the same, an 
 exact copy of the pattern 
 will be produced. It is easy ^^^' ™' 
 
 to see that the common lathe can thiis be made 
 to do many kinds of work. An " index-plate," a 
 pair of extra centres adjustable as to height and 
 angle with the lathe-bed, and other attachments 
 are now found permaneutly fixed on beds of lathes 
 or machines designated and sold by special names. 
 With such machines the workman is valued not 
 so much for the amount and accuracy of the work 
 accomplished, as for his ability to invent, design, 
 and set up his tools, as will be seen later in the 
 study of engine-lathe ^voik. 
 
102 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 LESSON X. 
 
 METAL-SPINNING AND BUENISHING. 
 
 Metal-spinning and burnisliing can be done 
 on the hand-l^the without the use of other attach- 
 ments ; all that is needed is the T, necessary 
 chucks, mandrels, and the ordinary hand-tools, 
 tilting-rest and compound rest. For this work 
 the lathe should make about 800 or more revolu- 
 tions per minute. 
 
 Fia. 71. 
 
METAL-SPINNINO AND BUBNISHINa. 103 
 
 To burnisli a piece of work is to polish or give 
 a gloss to the surface, and it is done by holding 
 up to the work a burnisher, a tool with a small, 
 bright surface, generally rounded at the end. The 
 tool must be made very hard and kept cool. To 
 burnish a piece of work, a ring, for Exercise 37. 
 instance, Fig. 71, the work must first Burnishing, 
 be finished smooth, and all the scratches removed 
 wi|h files, emery, and oil. The tool is then ap- 
 plied by holding it in the rest and pressing it 
 against the work as it revolves at a high speed. 
 This gives that high polish to the surface that 
 is found in highly finished silver- and steel- 
 work. 
 
 Fig. 72. 
 
 Spinning is very interesting work and is almost 
 a business in itself. To spin metal, the speed must 
 be high and the metal thin and properly annealed. 
 A rest with a long T is required, with a number 
 
104 
 
 THE aPEED-LATES. 
 
 of holes for the insertion of the steel pin which is 
 to serve as a fulcrum for the tool. But little 
 skill is required in spinning, compared with that 
 demanded by other kinds of lathe-work. The 
 effect required is produced by pressing against the 
 metal with a smooth tool free from all sharp cor- 
 ners. For ordinary use the most convenient tool 
 is the one shown in Fig. 72, having an elliptical 
 cross-section ; but sometimes several different to,ols 
 are used in one piece of work. 
 
 Try as an exercise to spin a common bowl or any 
 concave vessel. First a disk of metal is cut of the 
 Exercise 38. pi^op^i" diameter and a mould turned 
 Spinning. A of the required form (Fig. 73) and 
 metal cup. fastened to the face-plate. The disk 
 is placed between the mould and a cylindrical 
 piece of wood, and held in position by the centre. 
 
 Fig. 73. 
 
 The mould is often hollowed a little on its face 
 to make it hold better. First centre the disk 
 
METAL-SPINNING AND BURNISHING. 105 
 
 by holding the tool or a piece of wood on the 
 T with the end bearing up against the lower edge 
 of the metal, Fig. 74. Press gently as you turn 
 
 Fig. 74. 
 
 the work by hand, and, the pressure between the 
 head-stock and the metal being released, a few 
 revolutions will cause the work to revolve concen- 
 trically. Now, with the disk properly chucked, 
 and a speed which will generally be the highest 
 that can be obtained on the ordinary lathe, place 
 the steel pin in one of the several holes that will 
 bring the tool about at right angles to the lathe- 
 bed when held ready for work. Holding the cen- 
 tring-tool, made of wood, in the left hand and 
 the tool of steel in the right, place them both on 
 the rest, with the disk between them. Now bring 
 a gentle pressure to bear against the metal, near 
 the centre first, and if you give it time you will 
 cause the metal to conform perfectly to the mould, 
 but if you force it too rapidly the metal will crack. 
 The object in using the wooden tool is to prevent 
 
106 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 this cracking or buckling and to steady the plate 
 and the tool. If the work buckles and cracks the 
 speed probably is not high enough. It is this high 
 speed and a light pressure, such as would produce 
 a slight indentation if the lathe wei'e at rest and a 
 series of circles when revolving, that wiU enable 
 you to draw out and mould the metal into any de- 
 
 sired shape ; an expert after spinning a piece of 
 Work like this can spin it back again to its origi- 
 nal form, a disk. Spinning is usually done dry, 
 although in some cases soap-suds are used. Press- 
 work or stamping is taking the place of spinning 
 to some extent, particularly in sheet-brass work, 
 when large quantities are ordered. White metal 
 is mostly spun at present, as it cannot so easily be 
 
MBTAL-SPINNINa AND BUBNISHINO. 107 
 
 pressed out in dies with a press. Though it is 
 very flexible and can be spun nicely, it needs more 
 " coaching " and time than sheet brass, and when 
 stamped is likely to tear under the great pressure, 
 while sheet brass, if annealed, does not. 
 
 The spinner, like the pattern-maker and the 
 lathe-hand, is supposed to know how to design and 
 make all his tools, moulds, etc. Some of the 
 moulds used for spinning fancy oil-cans, sugar- 
 bowls, teapots, and some of the large work spun 
 for locomotive and marine engines require much 
 thought and skill ; the moulds, instead of being 
 solid, are in sections and would puzzle an inex- 
 perienced workman to put them together. 
 
108 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 LESSON XI. 
 
 SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 
 
 You have found that it takes a considerable time 
 to turn an oil-plug, a binding-post, or any exercise 
 which requires a considerable number of opera- 
 tions. If a great number of such pieces were 
 required quickly a sample would first be 
 made by hand, and then special tools would 
 be designed, to be used in an appropriate 
 machine. Such machines are the screw-cutter, 
 the tapping-machine, the milling-machine in its 
 different forms, the gear-cutter, the monitor, 
 the turret-lathe, and many others specially 
 designed for turning out work accurately and 
 in large quantities. If you could see the binding- 
 post turned and finished in the turret-lathe or the 
 screw in the screw-cutter you would find that a 
 very great number can be produced in a short 
 time. These special tools and machines are all 
 very costly, and if a tap, die, or forming-tool should 
 be ruined by cutting a dirty casting or piece of 
 work with iron or steel in its composition, the loss 
 would be considerable. 
 
SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 109 
 
 All castings and brass must therefore be clean, 
 and the finisher must insist upon this. A well- 
 equipped shop will have in connection with it a 
 foundiy and all the necessary tools. It will be 
 provided with a separator to separate all the iron 
 and steel chips and filings from the brass. This 
 consists of a vertically revolving magnetic disk, 
 over the edge of which is fastened a band of 
 •very thin sheet brass, covering the rear half of 
 the edge. The cuttings from the machines are 
 put in a funnel directly over the slowly revolving 
 disk and allowed to fall on the brass strip, and 
 thence on the magnet. The brass filings and 
 chips are not attracted by the magnet, and as the 
 disk turns they drop off into a receptacle placed 
 to receive them, while all the steel and iron re- 
 volves with the magnet, but before making a com- 
 plete turn is brushed off by brushes Avhich come in 
 close contact with the cylinder. This operation is 
 sometimes repeated. 
 
 All castings are washed or cleaned by putting 
 them into a revolving barrel called a tumbler. 
 This barrel is sometimes made of iron, but Avood 
 is much better, as the iron sticks to the castings, 
 giving them a bad color. The tumbler should not 
 be entirely closed, and is generally suspended in an 
 inclined position over a tub or sluice with two or 
 three compartments to receive the dirt and water 
 from the barrel. All the sweepings from the floor of 
 
110 
 
 THE HPEED-LATHE!. 
 
 the foundry, tte burnt sand, pieces of scrap-iron, and 
 dirt or dust are put into the barrel with the cast- 
 ings. As the barrel revolves, full of water, not only 
 
 Fig. 76. 
 
 are the castings cleaned, but the brass lumps and 
 chips also. The inclination of the tumbler will 
 cause all the pieces to rub together. The dirty 
 water and the pieces of brass that are washed out 
 through the cre^'ices made in the barrel drop into 
 the tub, the heavier pieces in the first compart- 
 ment, the next lighter in the second, and the light- 
 est in the third, the dirty water flowing on and 
 discharging into the drain ; the overflow being at 
 the top of each tub, nothing is lost, and every 
 piece of bi-ass in the sand is found and is per- 
 fectly clean. The castings after revolving for a 
 time in this barrel of water, sand, and scrap are clean 
 and fresh-looking and have what is called a good 
 color. 
 
SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 
 
 Ill 
 
 The foiming-tools, reamers, taps, and dies, and 
 all special tools used for producing work accu- 
 rately and quickly, are very expensive. Exercise 39. 
 This will readily be seen, for instance. The forming- 
 in the case of the forming-tool used *°°^" 
 for valve, injector, and beer -pump work, Fig. 77. 
 This is a cutting-tool resembling a piece of wide 
 moulding, sometimes 6" or more in width, with 
 the end cut off obliquely instead of square. The 
 
 Fig. 77. 
 
 stock is first roughed out or cleaned with a com- 
 mon hand-tool. The tool, which is set vertically 
 and at the proper distance from the line of centres 
 and parallel to it, is brought down in the same 
 way as the knife in the shears, cutting first at the 
 acute angle, at the very end of the piece, and 
 gradually along the whole length of the tool, 
 
112 THE 8PBED-LATEE. 
 
 thus meeting with but little resistance. If this 
 tool were square at the end it would be im- 
 possible to cut with it, nor would it be prac- 
 ticable even to use it as a scraper-tool, as it would 
 fill the wort full of " chatter "-marks — little cuts 
 like those on milled work. The reason of this is 
 that all broad-faced tools spring away from the 
 work and return to it with a series of vibrations ; 
 but with the cutting edge at an angle as just 
 described, properly gi"ound and tempered, it will 
 cut a very smooth surface and a great many such, 
 making them all alike. 
 
 With these special tools, emery-wheels, buffers, 
 and rag-wheels, some very fine work in brass is 
 finished by cheap labor, as that of boys or un- 
 skilled hands, in a short time. The rag-wheel is 
 made of disks of rags, 12" or more in diameter, 
 fastened to a mandrel and revolving at a speed 
 as high as 4000 revolutions or more per minute, 
 giving a fine polish to the work which is pressed 
 against it. 
 
UNBERRANB CUTTING- WITH THE GOUOE. 113 
 
 LESSON XII. 
 
 UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE GOUGE. 
 
 Having learned how to do good work by hold- 
 ing the handle of the gouge in your right hand 
 and the blade in your left, with the knuckles on 
 top, which is called " overhand " working, you 
 may now begin using the tool in the following 
 ways: 
 
 First. When turning large work, 20" or more in 
 diameter, hold the handle in either the right or 
 the left hand, and press your arm firmly against 
 your side, holding the knuckles of the left hand 
 either above or below the blade. 
 
 Second. In turning very small work hold the 
 handle in your right hand and the blade in your 
 left, with the thumb on top and the forefinger 
 under the T, as in Fig. 78. 
 
 Third. In small work, either in wood or brass, 
 when the work is hard or angular and it is 
 necessary to hold the blade of the tool very 
 firmly on the T, place the thumb in the con- 
 cavity of the gouge, the forefinger around the 
 
114 
 
 TEE BPMBD-LATEM. 
 
 Fig. 78. 
 
UNDERHAND GUTTING WITH THE GOUGB. 115 
 
 T, and the other fingers grasping the socket and 
 the rest, as in Fig. 79. 
 
 Fig. 79. 
 
 Fourth. In turning small work, when it is nec- 
 essary to use the gouge or calipers frequently, 
 hold the knuckles underneath, as in Fig. 80, so 
 that the tool may drop into a vertical position, 
 out of the way. 
 
116 
 
 TEB 8PBBD-LATHB. 
 
 Fig. 80. 
 
 Fig. 81. 
 
UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE GOUGE. Ill 
 
 Fifth. When using the fingers of the left hand 
 to measure and dismount the work quickly while 
 it is running, place the thumb in the hollow of 
 the blade while the fingers are stretched over and 
 around the revolving work, as in Fig. 81. 
 
 Sixth. Work that is fas- 
 tened on the face-plate or 
 held in the chuck is called 
 face-plate or chuck work. 
 For such woik the gouge is 
 held as in Figs. 78-81 to 
 turn the exterior, and as 
 described on pages 91 to 93 
 to bore, enlarge and finish 
 the inside. 
 
 The exercises shown in 
 
 Fig. 82. 
 
 Fig. 83. 
 
 the following figures are suitable for practice in 
 these several ways of working, none of which, 
 
118 
 
 TBE 8PEBB-LATHB. 
 
 Knobs. 
 
 Fig. 84. 
 
 Chessman. 
 
UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH TEE GOUGE. 119 
 
 however, are to be attempted before you have be- 
 come skilful in " overhand " turning. 
 
 Fig. 82 shows the frame and Fig. 83 the cyl- 
 inder of a small vertical engine. This is to be 
 turned by the first method, except ^\^hen the work- 
 man prefers to turn it on an engine-lathe. 
 
 m 
 
 Fig. 85, 
 
 Fig. 86. 
 
120 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHE. 
 
 Figures 84 are suitable for the second method. 
 
 Figures 85 illustrate the third case. 
 
 The pieces in Fig. 86 are suitable for the 
 fourth method, where the frequent use of the 
 calipers, or of the "sizing-chisel" shown in Fig. 
 87, is required. 
 
 Fig. 87. 
 
 Balusters, spindles for cabinet-work, rungs for 
 chairs and tables, such as Fig. 88, when made in 
 
 Fig. 88. 
 
 large quantities and cheaply, are gauged by the 
 sense of touch and mounted and dismounted 
 without stopping the lathe. They are suitable 
 for the fifth method of working. 
 
 Figures 89<a( and 893 show objects suitable for 
 the sixth method. 
 
 Fia- 89fl5, 
 
UNDEBHANB CUTTING WITS THE GOUGE. 121 
 
 Fig. 895, 
 
122 
 
 THE SPEED-LATHS. 
 
 Select your own method of treating the follow- 
 ing cases : 
 
 Gavel. 
 
 Mallet-gavel. 
 Rg. 90. 
 
 Glove-darner. 
 
THE 8LIDE-RE8T. 
 
 123 
 
 LESSON XIII. 
 
 THE COMPOUND EEST. 
 
 Fig. 91 represents a slide-rest, with a device c 
 for holding the cutting-tool. It is fastened to the 
 bed, like the T rest, by naeans of a bolt. The 
 depth of cut is adjusted by means of the handle 
 aa or bh. The slide can be swung around so 
 
 Fig. 91. 
 
 that the direction of the cut may be parallel to 
 the length of the shears or at any desired angle 
 with them. It is operated transversely by means 
 
124 
 
 THE SPBEB-LATEE. 
 
 of the screw l. A slide-rest of tbis description is 
 called a compound I'est, and is constructed to turn 
 work tapering as well as parallel. 
 
 Set the rest to cut parallel with the axis of the 
 lathe, and turn a cylinder, as in Exercise No. 22. 
 Exercise 40. While the compound rest may be used 
 The slide-rest, ^j^j^ ^^^ common speed-lathe, it is an 
 
 Turning par- _ ■■■ . ' 
 
 aiiei. essential part of the engme-lathe, and 
 
 the various operations of turning parallel and ta- 
 pering, setting, grinding, and operating the tools 
 for slide-rest work are fully described in the chap- 
 ters on that machine. 
 
 To make a miniature Sellers shaft-coupling. Fig. 
 92, such as may be found on the shafts in many 
 Exercise 41. shops, first cut olf two pieces of 1" 
 Tapering and j.Qm^(j brass 1" long, chuck, face, centre, 
 
 making a , . 
 
 coupling. and bore a hole through each piece 
 y\" in diameter. Now replace it with a piece of 
 \" round brass rod and, allowing it to protrude 
 
 Fig. 92. 
 
 from the face of the chuck 3" or more, centre it 
 and turn about 1" of its length to fit the hole in 
 
THE SLIDE-REST. 125 
 
 the cylinder tight. Drive it in gently, and, using 
 the rod as a mandi-el, proceed to turn and finish 
 the piece. Set the slide-rest to turn tapering 1" at 
 one end and \^" at the other. This can be done by 
 first turning the ends to the proper dimensions and 
 setting the slide so that as the tool is moved along 
 from end to end it shall be exactly at the same dis- 
 
 FiG. 93. 
 
 tance from the piece at both ends. It can be set 
 approximately by sight, and very exactly by hold- 
 ing a piece of metal which fits closely, first be- 
 tween the point of the tool and the small diame- 
 ter, and then between the tool and the large diam- 
 eter. If the piece feels the same at both places 
 the rest may be considered propei ly set. In cases 
 where the work can be removed from the lathe 
 
126 
 
 TEE 8PMED-LATEE. 
 
 and replaced exactly, you can test it very accu- 
 rately by running the tool up and scraping ofE a 
 chalk-mark and a little of the metal at one end, 
 and then, without touching the screw or the 
 
 Fig. 94. 
 
 handle of the rest, running the tool along to 
 the other end, where it should scrape off the same 
 as at the first. 
 
 Fig. 95. 
 
 Turn the two pieces so that they are alike. 
 Having now finished the cones, aa., Fig. 92, turn 
 and fit the shell or ring, hh. Chuck a piece of 
 
THE SLIDE-BEST. 
 
 127 
 
 1\" round brass about 2\" long. Face and centre 
 it and drill a \" hole through it. Then enlarge 
 with a I" drill. Now with a brass-boring tool 
 bore it true to f " diameter. Next bore a recess 
 at the end 1" in diameter and J" deep. The 
 chuck for this exercise should be absolutely true, 
 and the ends or face of the work must be pushed 
 back against the face of the chuck. Now set the 
 tool and bore the taper, as shown in Fig. 96, 
 
 Fia. 96. 
 
 boring first one half to fit one of the cones, and 
 then, after reversing the piece in the chuck, boring 
 the other half to fit the second cone. The setting 
 of the rest is accomplished in the same way as 
 for the outside taper. (See Fig. 93.) With the 
 
128 
 
 THE SPEBD-LATHE. 
 
 cones placed in position and fitting snugly in the 
 shell or ring, mark and drill three holes, about 
 \" in diameter, to fit a wire of the same size as 
 the binding-post screw-tap. Drill a clearance- 
 hole in one cone and a tapping-hole in the other. 
 Saw with a metal-saw each cone half through, 
 as at a, Fig. 97, so that it can be sprung together. 
 
 Fig. 97. 
 
 Turn and fit to the hole in each of the cones, 
 easy without shake, 3" in length of the piece 
 
 Pig. 98. 
 
 used as a mandrel. Fasten the cones tightly on 
 it with the little screws and true off and finish the 
 outside of the ring or shell. 
 
 This exercise takes in about all that the lathe is 
 capable of doing, including facing, boring, drill- 
 
THE BLIDE-BEST. 
 
 129 
 
 ing and tapping, parallel and taper turning, taper 
 and parallel fitting, finishing on a mandrel and 
 polishing. 
 
 Such pieces as fancy posts for electrical and 
 telegraphic work, straight-way or three-way cocks 
 for indicator practice, etc. (Fig. 99), can be easily 
 
 Fig. 99. 
 
 turned and finished up. They are useful exer. 
 cises for practice, but do not involve any new 
 methods of working. 
 
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Appliances, special 108 
 
 Ball, turning a 94 
 
 Bearings 1 
 
 Bed of the lathe 1 
 
 Belt, care of 3 
 
 Belt, shifting the 10 
 
 Brass-turning 68-89 
 
 Built-up patterns 50-57 
 
 Burnishing 103 
 
 Burr, removing the 60 
 
 Calculating the speed 11 
 
 Calipers, use of 88 
 
 Centres, live and dead. 5 
 
 Centres, removing and replacing 5 
 
 Centring and mounting work 14 
 
 Centring-tool 65 
 
 Centring with the centring-tool , . .. 65 
 
 Chaser 83 
 
 Chattering 112 
 
 Chisel-handle, turning a 30 
 
 Chisel, holding the 20, 24-31 
 
 Chuck, care of the 64 
 
 Chuck-work 32 
 
 Chuck, wooden 35 
 
 Clamps for divided patterns 46 
 
 Cleaning work 109 
 
 Compound rest 123 
 
 Concave and convex surfaces, turning 23-29 
 
 131 
 
132 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 PAom 
 
 Cores 49 
 
 Core-prints 48 
 
 Counter-shaft 3 
 
 Coupling, turning a 124 
 
 Crowning of pulleys 4 
 
 Cutting an inside screw with a cLaser 88 
 
 Cutting a screw with a die 81 
 
 Dead-centre 5 
 
 Dead-spindle 1 
 
 Dies 79 
 
 Double-headed lathe 99 
 
 Dowels for divided patterns 46 
 
 Draught of pattern 43 
 
 Drill-chuck 71 
 
 Drilling 71 
 
 Drill, twist 72 
 
 Emery-wheel 112 
 
 Face-plate 33 
 
 Facing- tool 61 
 
 Ferrule, turning a 60 
 
 Finishing-tool 59 
 
 Flanges in patterns 52 
 
 Plat-faced tool -. 59 
 
 Forming-tools Ill 
 
 Gluing 45 
 
 Gouge for turning wood 16 
 
 Gouge, holding the 16-18, 91, 92, 113-117 
 
 Gouge, use of the, in wood-turning 90-93 
 
 Graver 59 
 
 Graver, cylindrical turning with the 62 
 
 Hand-rest 1 
 
 Head-stock 1 
 
 Hobs 80 
 
 Holding the chisel 20, 24-31 
 
 Holding the gouge 16-18, 91, 93, 113-117 
 
 Hollow patterns 48-57 
 
 Hollow work 36 
 
 Journals 1 
 
 Knurling-tool 70 
 
 Live-centre 5 
 
ALPHABETIGAL INDEX. 133 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Live-spindle 1 
 
 Metal-spinniDg 102 
 
 Mounting work 14 
 
 Oval turning , 99 
 
 Parting-tool 34 
 
 Pattern, allowance for sbrinkage 43 
 
 Pattern, draught of 43 
 
 Pattern-making 43 
 
 Patterns, built-up 50-57 
 
 Patterns, divided, clamps for 46 
 
 Patterns, hollow 48-57 
 
 Patterns with flanges 53 
 
 Pitch of taps 75 
 
 Plug for oil-hole, turning a , 68 
 
 Pulleys, crowning of the 4 
 
 Pulleys, fast and loose 4 
 
 Rag-wheel 112 
 
 Rest 1 
 
 Ring, turning a 32 
 
 Roughing-out tool 59 
 
 Round-nosed tool 38 
 
 Screw, cutting with a die 81 
 
 Screw, cutting with the chaser 83 
 
 Screw, inside 86 
 
 Screw of tail-stock, double thread on 8 
 
 Screw of tail-stock, right- or left-handed 8 
 
 Separating brass and iron cuttings 109 
 
 Setting the tail-stock 7 
 
 Shears 1 
 
 Shifting the belt 10 
 
 Sbrinkage, allowance for, in patterns 43 
 
 Sizing-chisel 120 
 
 Slide-rest 123 
 
 Special appliances 108 
 
 Special tools 108 
 
 Speed, calculating the . . 11 
 
 Speed-counter 12 
 
 Speed-lathe, care and management of 1 
 
 Speed-lathe, parts of 1 
 
 Spindle-screw 1 
 
134 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 G B 
 
 Spindles, live and dead. 1 
 
 Spinning 102 
 
 Spline in the dead-spindle 7 
 
 Spur-centre 1 
 
 Starting and stopping 10 
 
 Tachometer 11 
 
 Tail-pin 1 
 
 Tail-stock 1 
 
 Tail-stock, setting the 7 
 
 Taper turning 124 
 
 Tapping 76 
 
 Taps 73 
 
 Taps, pitch of 75 
 
 Tools, for woodturning 15 
 
 Tools, special 108 
 
 Turner's gouge 16 
 
 Turning a ball , 94 
 
 Turning a binding-post 70 
 
 Turning a chisel-handle, 30 
 
 Turning a coupling 124 
 
 Turning a ferrule 60 
 
 Turning a plug for an oil-hole 68 
 
 Turning a ring 32 
 
 Turning concave and convex surfaces S3-29 
 
 Turning-tools, for wood 15 
 
 Turning, oval 99 
 
 Tumbler, cleaning with 109 
 
 Twist-drill 73 
 
 Underhand cutting with the gouge 113 
 
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 Qualitative — Quantitative- Organic — Inorganic, Etc. 
 
 Adriance's Laboratory Calculations 12mo, 1 35 
 
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 " Qualitative " " (Johnson.) Svo, 3 00 
 
 (Wells) Trans. 16th. 
 
 German Edition.. : iSvo, 5 00 
 
 Fuerte's Water and Public Health 13mo, 1 50 
 
 Gill's Gas and Fuel Analysis 12mo, 1 25 
 
 Hammarsten's Physiological Chemistry. (Maudel.) Svo, 4 00 
 
 Helm's Principles of Mathematical Chemistry. (Morgan). 12mo, 150 
 
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 Ladd's Quantitative Chemical Analysis 12mo, 1 00 
 
 Lnndauer's Spectrum Analysis. (Tingle.) Svo, 3 00 
 
 Mandel's Bio-chemical Laboratory 12mo, 1 50 
 
 Mason's Water-supply Svo, 5 00 
 
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 Ricketts and Russell's Notes on Inorganic Chemistry' (Non- 
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i3 00 
 
 2 50 
 
 2 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 2 50 
 
 2 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 50 
 
 3 00 
 
 2 50 
 
 2 00 
 
 Uuddimau's Incompatibilities in Prescriptions 8vo, 
 
 Schimpf's Volumetric Analysis 12mo, 
 
 Spencer's Sugar Manufacturer's Handbook . 12mo, morocco flaps, 
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 Wells's Inorganic Qualitative Analysis ]2mo, 
 
 " Laboratory Guide in Qualitative Chemical Analysis, 8vo, 
 
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 Thureton's Stationary Steam Engines for Electric Lighting Pur- 
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 Tillman's Heat 8vo, 1 50 
 
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 AND Boilers, p. 14.) 
 
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 7 
 
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 8 
 
 25 00 
 
 4 00 
 
 1 00 
 
 2 50 
 
 2 50 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 25 
 
 1 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 6 00 
 
 50 
 
 4 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 1 25 
 
 1 50 
 
 5 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 5 00 
 
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 7 50 
 
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 1 25 
 
 1 25 
 
 3 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 50 
 
 2 50 
 
 3 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 25 
 
 2 00 
 
* Tmutwiue's Layiug Out Curves 12mo, morocco, $2 50 
 
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 Bazin's Experiments upon the Contraction of the Liquid Vein 
 
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 Kirkwood's Lead Pipe for Service Pipe 8vo, 1 50 
 
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 Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 Bolland's Encyclopaedia of Founding Terms 12mo, 3 00 
 
 9 
 
BoUand's The Iron Founder 13mo, 
 
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 Booth's Clock and Watch Maker's Miinual 13mo, 
 
 Bouvier's Handbook on Oil Painting 12ino, 
 
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 Ford's Boiler Making for Boiler Makers 18mo, 
 
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 * Reisig's Guide to Piece Dyeing 8vo, 
 
 Spencer's Sugar Manufacturer's Handbook 12mo, mor. flap, 
 
 " Handbook for Chemists of Beet Houses. 
 
 13mo, mor. flap, 
 
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 The Lathe and Its Uses 8vo, 
 
 Thurston's Manual of Steam Boilers 8vo, 
 
 Walke's Lectures on Explosives 8vo, 
 
 West's American Foundry Practice 13mo, 
 
 Moulder's Text-book 13mo, 
 
 Wiechmann's Sugar Analysis 8vo, 
 
 Woodbury's Fire Protection of Mills 8vo, 
 
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 Strength — Elasticity — Resistance, Etc. 
 {See also Engineering, p. 6.) 
 
 Baker's Masonry Construction 8vo, 
 
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 Bovey's Strength of Materials 8vo, 
 
 Burr's Elasticity and Resistance of Materials 8vo, 
 
 Byrne's Highway Construction 8vo, 
 
 Carpenter's Testing Machines and Methods of Testing Materials. 
 
 Church's Mechanics of Engineering^=Solids and Fluids 8vo, 
 
 Du Bois's Stresses in Framed Structures 4to, 
 
 Hatfield's Transverse Strains 8vo, 
 
 Johnson's Materials of Construction 8vo, 
 
 Lanza's Applied Mechanics 8vo, 
 
 Merrill's Stones for Building and Decoration 8vo, 
 
 Merriman's Mechanics of Materials 8vo, 
 
 " Strength of Materials 12mo, 
 
 Pattou's Treatise on Foundations 8vo, 
 
 Rockwell's Roads and Pavements in France 12mo, 
 
 Spalding's Roads and Pavements 12mo, 
 
 Tliurslon's Materials of Construction 8vo, 
 
 10 
 
 2 50 
 
 3 50 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 4 00 
 
 1 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 $3 00 
 
 3 50 
 
 35 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 6 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 4 00 
 
 3 50 
 
 3 50 
 
 2 50 
 
 3 50 
 
 5 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 7 50 
 
 5 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 6 00 
 
 10 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 6 00 
 
 7 50 
 
 5 00 
 
 4 00 
 
 1 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 1 25 
 
 3 00 
 
 5 00 
 
Thurston's Materials of EDgineering 3 vols., 8vo, $8 00 
 
 Vol. I,, Non-metallic 8vo, 3 00 
 
 Vol. II., Iron and Steel 8vo, 3 50 
 
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 Weyrauch's Strength of Iron and Steel. (Du Boia.) 8vo, 1 50 
 
 Wood's Resistance of Materials 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 Baker's Elliptic Functions 8vo, 1 50 
 
 Ballard's Pyramid Problem 8vo, 150 
 
 Barnard's Pyramid Problem 8vo, 1 50 
 
 Bass's Differential Calculus 13rao, 4 00 
 
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 " Differential Equations — Ordinary and Partial 8vOi 3 50 
 
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 MahAn's Descriptive Geometry (Stone Cutting) 8vo, 1 50 
 
 Merriman and Woodward's Higher Mathematics 8vo, 5 00 
 
 Merriman's Method of Least Squares 8vo, 3 00 
 
 Pai-ker's Quadrature of the Circle 8vo, 3 50 
 
 Rice and Johnson's Differential and Integral Calculus, 
 
 3 vols, iul, 12mo, 3 50 
 
 Differential Calculus 8vo, 3 00 
 
 " Abridgment of Differential Calculus 8vo, 150 
 
 Searles's Elements of Geometry 8vo, 1 50 
 
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 Warren's Descriptive Geometry 3 vols., 8vo, 3 50 
 
 ' ' Drafting Instruments 12mo, 1 25 
 
 " Free-hand Drawing 13mo, 100 
 
 " Higher Linear Perspective ; 8vo, 3 50 
 
 " Linear Perspective 13mo, 1 00 
 
 " Primary Geometry 12mo, 75 
 
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Warren's Plane Problems ISmo, $1 85 
 
 " Problems and Theorems 8vo, 3 50 
 
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 Wood's Co-ordinate Geometry 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 Tbxt-books and Practical Works. 
 {See also Engineering, p. 6.) 
 
 Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings ISmo, 8 50 
 
 Benjamin's Wrinkles and Recipes 18mo, 8 00 
 
 Carpenter's Testing Macliines and Methods of Testing 
 
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 Chordal's Letters to Mechanics 13mo, 3 00 
 
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 " Notes and Examples in Mechanics 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 Cromwell's Belts and Pulleys 13mo, 1 50 
 
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 Compton's First Lessons in Metal Working 13mo, 1 50 
 
 Dana's Elementary Mechanics 13mo, 1 50 
 
 Dingey's Machinery Pattern Making 13mo, 3 00 
 
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 4to, half morocco, 10 00 
 
 Du Bois's Mechanics. Vol. I., Kinematics 8vo, 3 50 
 
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 Vol. m., Kinetics 8vo, 3 50 
 
 Fitzgerald's Boston Machinist 18mo, 1 00 
 
 Flather's Dynamometers ISmo, 3 00 
 
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 Hall's Car Lubrication ISmo, 1 .00 
 
 Holly's Saw Filing 18mo, 75 
 
 Johnson's Theoretical Mechanics. An Elementary Treatise. 
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 Jones Machine Design. Part I. , Kinematics 8vo, 1 50 
 
 " " " Part II., Strength and Proportion of 
 
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 Lanza's Applied Mechanics 8vo, 7 50 
 
 MacCord's Kinematics 8vo, 5 00 
 
 Merriman's Mechanics of Materials 8vo, 4 00 
 
 Metcalfe's Cost of Manufactures 8vo, 5 00 
 
 Michie's Analytical Mechanics 8vo, 4 00 
 
 Mosely's Mechanical Engineering. (Mahan.) 8vo, 5 00 
 
 13 
 
Richards's Compressed Air 12mo, $1 50 
 
 Robiuson's Principles of Mecbanism 8vo, ? 00 
 
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 Warren's Machine Construction 3 vols., 8vo, 7 50 
 
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 " Mechanics of Engiueering. Vol. III., Part I., 
 
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 Weisbach's Sleam Engines. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 
 
 Wood's Analytical Mechanics 8vo, 3 00 
 
 " Elementary Mechanics 12mo, 125 
 
 " " " Supplement and Key 125 
 
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 Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 " Metallurgy of Silver 8vo, 7 50 
 
 * Kerl's Metallurgy — Copper and Iron 8vo, 15 00' 
 
 * " " Steel, Fuel, etc 8vo, 15 00 
 
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 Beard's Ventilation of Mines 12mo, 2 50 
 
 Boyd's Resources of South Western Virginia 8vo, 3 00 
 
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 Chester's Catalogue of Minerals 8vo, 1 25 
 
 " " " " paper, 50 
 
 ' ' Dictionary of the Names of Minerals 8vo, 3 00 
 
 Dana's American Localities of Minerals. 8vo, 1 00 
 
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 2 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 3 50 
 
 35 00 
 
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 4 00 
 
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 2 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 7 00 
 
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 4 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 1 35 
 
 Dana's Descriptive Mineralogy. (E. 8.) ■ • ■ .Svo, half morocco, 
 
 ',' Miueralogy and Petrography (J.D.) 13mo, 
 
 " Minerals and How to Study Tbem. (E. 8.) 13mo, 
 
 " Text-book of Mineralogy. (E. 8.) 8vo, 
 
 •Drinker's Tunnelling, Explosives, Compounds, and Rock Drills. 
 
 4to, half morocco, 
 
 Egleston's Catalogue of Minerals and Synonyms 8vo, 
 
 Eissler's Explosives — Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 
 
 Goodycar's Coal Mines of the Western Coast 13mo, 
 
 Hussak's Rock forming Minerals. (Smith.) 8vo, 
 
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 Sawyer's Accidents in Mines 8vo, 
 
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 Walke's Lectures on Explosives 8vo, 
 
 Williams's Lithology • 8vo, 
 
 Wilson's Mine Ventilation l6mo, 
 
 " Hydraulic and Placer Mining 12mo. 
 
 STEAM AND ELECTRICAL ENGINES, BOILERS, Etc. 
 
 Stationaky — Marine— Locomotive — Gas Engines, Etc. 
 
 (See also Enginbehihg, p. 6.) 
 
 Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings 12mo, 2 50 
 
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 Meyer's Modern Locomotive Construction 4to, 10 00 
 
 Peabody and Miller's Steam Boilers 8vo 4 00 
 
 Peabody's Tables of Saturated Steam 8vo, 1 00 
 
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 Pupin and Osterberg's Thermodynamics '. 12mo, 1 25 
 
 Reagan's Steam and Electrical Locomotives ISmo, 2 00 
 
 R5ntgen's Thermodynamics. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 
 
 Sinclair's Locomotive Running 13mo 2 00 
 
 Thurston's Boiler Explosion 12mo, 150 
 
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Thurston's Engine and Boiler Trials 8vo, $5 00 
 
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 2 parts, 12 00 
 
 " Philosophy of the Steam Engine 12mo, 75 
 
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 12mo, 1 50 
 
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 Adriance's Laboratory Calculations 12mo, 1 25 
 
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 IS 
 
MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS. 
 
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 12mo, 1 50 
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 16 
 

 
 
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