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George W ashington Flowers 
 Memorial Collection 
 
 DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 ESTABLISHED BY THE 
 FAMILY OF 
 
 COLONEL FLOWERS 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 
 
 https://archive.org/details/glimpsesofafricaOOsmit 
 
GLIMPSES OF AFRICA 
 
 WEST AND SOUTHWEST COAST 
 
 Containing the Author's Impressions and Observations during 
 a Voyage of Six Thousand Miles from Sierra Leone 
 to St. Paul de Loanda , and Return 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 The Rio del Ray and Cameroons Rivers, and the Congo River 
 from its Mouth to Matadi 
 
 BY 
 
 C. S. SMITH 
 
 INTRODUCTION BY 
 
 BISHOP H. M. TURNER, D. D., LL. D. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 NASHVILLE, TENN. 
 
 Publishing House A. M. E. Church Sunday School Union 
 1895 
 
Copyright, 1895, by C. S. Smith. 
 
 All rights reserved. 
 
rHE FLOWERS COlLibtWH 
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 TO ALL NOBLE AND HEROIC SPIRITS, 
 
 WHO BELIEVE 
 
 THAT THE GOOD OF THE WHOLE IS GREATER 
 THAN ANY OF ITS PARTS, 
 
 AND WHO ARE POSSESSED OF THE 
 SPIRIT OF SELF-DENIAL 
 TO 
 
 DARE AND VENTURE FOR THE PUBLIC WE^L, 
 THIS WORK 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 
 
 
 432499 
 

 
PREFACE. 
 
 OR twenty years I had been possessed of a desire to 
 
 1 visit Africa — a desire which grew upon me as the 
 years passed by, and which I at last succeeded in grat- 
 ifying in the year 1894. 
 
 The voyage, which began when I left Nashville, Tenn., 
 August 17, of the above year, was planned so as to cover 
 a tour of the West and Southwest Coast of Africa, for a 
 distance of three thousand miles by the ship’s course, from 
 Sierra Leone on the North to St. Paul de Loanda on the 
 South ; and to include the ascent of the Cameroons and 
 Congo rivers, so far as they are navigable for ocean steam- 
 ers. The inducing causes which led me to make this tour 
 may be enumerated as follows : 
 
 First. To gratify a long-cherished desire to see Africa. 
 Second. To see what the European is doing there. Third. 
 To see what the African himself is doing. Fourth. To 
 gain a knowledge of the operations of missionary efforts. 
 Fifth. To make some meteorological observations. Sixth. 
 To see if there are any openings for the employment of the 
 skill and energy of intelligent and industrious young Amer- 
 icans of African descent. 
 
 The time occupied in making the voyage was one hun- 
 dred and forty-seven days from the date I left Nashville un- 
 til I returned. I was on the West and Southwest Coast of 
 Africa two months and three weeks, including a stop at 
 Monrovia of ten days, and at Sierra Leone of six days. 
 All civilizing influences are confined to the coast and river 
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 432495 
 
6 
 
 Preface. 
 
 courses. I carried with me my own scientific instruments 
 for making meteorological observations, and a number of 
 books on Africa, so that I might compare the statements of 
 other African travelers with the results of my own obser- 
 vations. 
 
 I did not go into the interior at any point, except as 1 
 ascended the Rio del Ray, Cameroons, and Congo rivers. 
 I asceuded the Congo for a distance of one hundred and 
 ten miles, which is as far as ocean steamers can go, naviga- 
 tion being interrupted by a series of cataracts. 
 
 My original intention was to confine my initial effort as 
 a book writer to the simple narrative of the results of my 
 observations. Before I had completed my tour, however, 
 I was led to change this plan so as to include some matter 
 of a general nature in harmony with the inducing causes 
 which led me to make the voyage. 
 
 Hence I have divided the work into two parts. Part I. 
 contains seven chapters, including “Preliminary State- 
 ments.” Part II. contains the “Personal Memoranda” 
 of the voyage. 
 
 The narrative is confined to personal observations, 1 hough 
 this will perhaps deprive the casual reader of some details 
 otherwise interesting. Much error, particularly in refer- 
 ence to Africa, has been propagated in consequence of 
 writers generally not confining the subject of their books to 
 their own observations. In my own case, I presume, the 
 sources of information being equally accessible, that the 
 intelligent reader can obtain for himself as easily as I can 
 for him whatever information he desires about the early 
 history of Africa, its ancient races, and the efforts of the 
 Portuguese, British, and Dutch to circumnavigate and col- 
 onize that continent. 
 
 I do not lay claim to originality for the full contents of 
 
Preface. 
 
 7 
 
 the work. Chapter II. — “Europe in Africa ” — is in the 
 main a compilation from Whitaker’s Almanac for 1895. I 
 have consulted numerous authors, and gained valuable data 
 and suggestions from their writings. With two single ex- 
 ceptions, all the works consulted have been published with- 
 in the past three years. 
 
 Among other scientific instruments, I carried with me 
 Saussure’s hygrometer with a thermometer attached, and 
 an aneroid barometer for the purpose of making meteoro- 
 logical observations. 
 
 I unhesitatingly vouch for the genuineness of all the il- 
 lustrations, as they are made from photographs collected 
 by myself, and for which I am chiefly indebted to Messrs. 
 Lutterodt Brothers, and Mr. D. Olawala Labinjo, native 
 photographers on the West Coast of Africa, the former be- 
 ing located at Accra, Gold Coast Colony. 
 
 Acknowledgments are made for favors received durin'g 
 the voyage from Elder, Dempster & Co., Agents of the 
 African Steamship Company, Liverpool, Eng. ; Rev. J. 
 R. Frederick, Freetown, Sierra Leone; Messrs. Henry 
 & Jesse Cooper, Monrovia, Liberia ; Rev. Clement Irons, 
 Mehlenburgh, Liberia; Rev. William Barleycorn, Fer- 
 nando Po; Mr. Francis J. Steane, Victoria ; King Bell and 
 Prince Manga Bell, Bell Town, Cameroons; Mr. Antonio 
 Andre Mari, Black Point; Mr. G. T. Samuel, Boma, 
 Congo; Captain Eversfield, Purser Humphreys, and Chief 
 Engineer Irving, of the Steamship “ Benguela ; ” Captain 
 Walsh, of the Steamship “ Bakana,”aud Mr. Roland Cole, 
 Colonial Postmaster of the Gold Coast Colony. 
 
• INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HE nineteenth century, which will soon be numbered 
 
 with the past, has been one of eventful resources. It 
 came in amid stir, wars, revolutions, national upheavals, 
 and new political experiments ; but the activities, stir, and 
 adventures were prompted by human ambition and nation- 
 al greed. Nearly the whole civilized world either had war 
 on hand or one in contemplation, or had just emerged 
 from the smoke of battle. The spirit of conquest had been 
 fed by the lust of power for so long anterior to this event 
 that distinction appeared to rest alone upon those who were 
 the most relentless in imbruing their hands in the blood of 
 their neighbors, and this gory greed reached its culmina- 
 tion in the early part of the present century. Napoleon 
 Bonaparte appeal’s to have been raised up in the negative 
 providence of God to glut this inordinate ambition, and 
 teach the world the folly of such a course. International 
 treaties followed, feuds and misunderstandings were adjust- 
 ed and settled, and an appeal to arms was no longer resort- 
 ed to when mutual blunders occurred, as had previously 
 been the case ; nor has the bloody drama been the universal 
 play of nations since the downfall of Napoleon, for selfish 
 ambition became gorged with blood, and stood aghast be- 
 fore bleaching bones and the wails of widows and children. 
 True, we have had wars since, and sanguinary strife has 
 marked the progress of the nations, but their career of 
 blood and carnage has been but temporary, and every dec- 
 ade is lessening the number, mitigating the causes, and 
 increasing the horrors for such a condition of things. 
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
10 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 But the latter part of the nineteenth century has pro- 
 duced a marvelous change. Men are still ambitious, aspir- 
 ing, pursuers of fame, lovers of admiration, and are equal- 
 ly heroic. They still risk, dare, venture, and battle with 
 obstacles, and desire and expect the approval of their day 
 and generation in some form or another. It is human na- 
 ture to be pleased with a smile. 
 
 A hearty handshake imparts a solace when we feel it is 
 given in recognition of services rendered or victories 
 achieved. No sane man, in the exercise of his normal 
 powers, is satisfied to be the whole absorbent of his own 
 glory. It lends extra pleasure to have others share with 
 him. But no longer is glory, honor, and renown regarded 
 as a postulate of war and domination over others, or of the 
 degradation, sorrow, and anguish of others. 
 
 The pride of merit is now associated with benefaction. 
 Who can do the most to enlighten, help, and elevate the 
 wt rid is the voice that sounds and echoes from human en- 
 deavor. A new dispensation is upon us. Men give their 
 millions to help the poor and to educate the ignorant; 
 others spend sleepless nights in planning to unite the mass- 
 es on some line of great reform ; others in comparative ob- 
 scurity come forth from their private retreats with new in- 
 ventions, after years of study and experiment, which lift 
 the burden of labor and toil from the shoulders of millions, 
 and their names go flaming down to the future ; othersare 
 piercing the jungles of every clime and catching by instru- 
 mental skill the pictures and mirages of every land and 
 sea, and reproducing them in books, to enable millions to 
 sit in their homes and inspect the entire globe, with its val- 
 leys, hills, mountains, lakes, deserts, landscapes, cities, and 
 peoples of every size, color, and nationality. And thus 
 we might continue to instance, by way of delineation and 
 
Introduction. 
 
 11 
 
 illustration, to show grandeur in human endeavor in a va- 
 riety of forms almost infinite; and while peril is necessa- 
 rily encountered, it is not the peril of bloodthirsty ambition, 
 when danger confronts the invader of household and fami- 
 ly comforts, as formerly prevailed — even in the early part 
 of this century. 
 
 The Negro, colored man, Afro American, or whatever 
 name the reader may prefer, is not sitting idly by, while 
 the mighty host of meritorious men in the arena of the va- 
 rious professions and beneficial industries are ascending the 
 hills in quest of the summit of distinction. We are men, 
 to all intents and purposes, possessed of all the inspirations, 
 aspirations, and virtues incident to human nature in gen- 
 eral. Thus we are procuring homes, beautifying them, 
 educating our children, entering the professions of medi- 
 cine, law, sacred ministry, the various branches of litera- 
 ture, and all that belong to the higher branches of civil- 
 ized Jife. 
 
 Up to the present, however, our chief success has been, 
 as Dr. Derrick would say, in the “ Republic of letters.” 
 The numerous schools and colleges which have been estab- 
 lished of late years, the hundreds of newspapers and other 
 periodicals which we are publishing, with the large num- 
 ber of books which we are sending from the press daily, 
 discussing every subject, to a greater or less degree, almost 
 in the sphere of pantology, give attestation to the intellect- 
 ual fertility of the colored man’s brain to an extent that 
 the world is compelled to look on and say, “ Well done ! ” 
 
 But while knowledge in all of its departments is univer- 
 sal (for it must be of necessity, if it is genuine knowledge), 
 there is, nevertheless, a racial and denominational color- 
 ing which instinctively is stated to better advantage when 
 one of the race or the denomination is the narrator. It 
 
12 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 appears to be impossible for a white man or woman, be 
 they friend or foe, to tell the exact truth when they are re- 
 lating or discussing the merits or demerits of the colored race. 
 
 We do not mean to imply that the Negro does not often 
 misstate and misrepresent facts, both willfully and ignorant- 
 ly, and very often maliciously, but even then those familiar 
 with our people and their special habitudes and characteris- 
 tics will discover a familiarity in the terms employed through- 
 out the story or narrative. And, on the other hand, the 
 white people are so thoroughly convinced that the black man 
 cannot do them justice that they neither trust him nor any 
 other race to write their shortcomings or deeds of valor 
 and greatness. Bancroft in his history represents Este 
 Vanico Dorantes, the great discoverer of New Mexico, as a 
 brutal and cruel Negro, while the Spanish historian ranks 
 him as the Negro Columbus, and entitled to the gratitude 
 of humanity. 
 
 Rev. Charles S. Smith, I). D., who projected, organ- 
 ized, and battled with opposition, wrestled with criticism, 
 defied his opposers, scorned his contemners, and practi- 
 cally created something out of nothing, has given the A. 
 M. E. Church a department which towers over all others, 
 and makes any attempt at comparison ridiculous. Like 
 Alexander of old, he desired a new domain for the exercise 
 of his intellectual prowess, and selected Africa, the giant 
 continent of the world, as the field for his gladiatorial risk 
 and venture. He says he was prompted in going to Africa : 
 “ First. To gratify a long-cherished desire to see that coun- 
 try. Second. To see what the European is doing there. 
 Third. To see what the African himself is doing. Fourth. 
 To gain a knowledge of the operations of missionary ef- 
 forts. Fifth. To study the effect of the climate upon the 
 human constitution Sixth. To see if there are any open- 
 
Intro d action. 
 
 lo 
 
 ings for the employment of the skill and energy of intelli- 
 gent and industrious young Americans of African descent.” 
 
 The reasons above stated were a sufficient incentive to 
 impel a man of worth and merit to defy consequences, and 
 make the sacrifice for the good of others, while selfishness 
 would have frozen the energies of a man who had no con- 
 cern beyond his own ease and comforts. England, and in- 
 deed all of the European countries, have recognized their 
 African explorers as men possessed of heroic courage, and 
 those who have dared to pierce the jungles of that conti- 
 nent, and wrestle with its tropical malaria, strange dis- 
 eases, sultry valleys, carnivorous heasts, poisonous reptiles, 
 and torturing insects, have been titled, honored with pre- 
 ferment, made the guests of royalty, and, like the illustri- 
 ous Livingstone, complimented with a sarcophagus in 
 Westminster Abbey, which is the most exalted recogni- 
 tion that England can pay to her meritorious dead. 
 
 In this country, however, the insanity of color prejudice 
 has been a bar to any considerable endeavor and sacrifice 
 being made in connection with Africa, and nearly all of 
 the information that we have happily obtained has come 
 through European adventurers and explorers. 
 
 But Dr. Smith, the author of the well-written and illus- 
 trated work, entitled “ Glimpses of Africa,” has been raised 
 up, as we believe, in the providence of God, to set before 
 the reading public — and especially the colored portion of 
 it — a narrative of his observations, with a variety of illus- 
 trations which will enhance interest in the natural sceneries 
 and resources of that country to an extent that will arouse 
 disinterested thousands, and awaken the spirit of investi- 
 gation in connection with the Negro which has heretofore 
 been dormant. H. M. Turner. 
 
 Atlanta, Ga., February 16, 1895, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Preface 5 
 
 Introduction 9 
 
 Contents 15 
 
 List of Maps and Illustrations 17 
 
 PART I. 
 
 Chapter I. — Preliminary Statement 21 
 
 Chapter II. — Europe in Africa 27 
 
 Chapter III. — The Purpose of the European 50 
 
 Chapter IY. — The African in Africa 67 
 
 Chapter V.— Missionary Enterprises . . 86 
 
 Chapter VI. — Climatic Conditions 117 
 
 Chapter VII. — No Special Inducements Offered 131 
 
 PART II. 
 
 Personal Memoranda 147 
 
 Appendix 287 
 
 ( 15 ) 
 
LIST OF MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 — Page 
 
 Map of Africa 28 
 
 Map of West and Southwest Coast 146 
 
 Map of Liberia 250 
 
 The Partitioning of Africa 26 
 
 Freetown, Sierra Leone 30 
 
 Part View of Libreville, Gaboon 34 
 
 Fernando Po 37 
 
 Part View of Cameroons Town 41 
 
 St. Paul de Loanda 45 
 
 Imperial Barracks, Freetown 51 
 
 Repairing Telephone Wires, Gaboon 56 
 
 Congolese Soldiers 56 
 
 Rev. William Barleycorn, Fernando Po 66 
 
 Rev. and Mrs. Wilson, Victoria 66 
 
 Frederick R. C. Lutterodt, Photographer, Accra 71 
 
 D. Olawale Labinjo, Photographer, Lagos 71 
 
 A Dwalla Woman 76 
 
 An Ambriz W oman 76 
 
 A Mandinile Bride (front view) 80 
 
 A Mandinile Bride (side view) 80 
 
 Mbuti Men 84 
 
 Batta Natives i 84 
 
 Fetiches and Worshiper 87 
 
 Juju or Medicine Man 87 
 
 Natives Preparing Food — 93 
 
 A Cabenda Girl 93 
 
 Mpongwe Cannibals 99 
 
 Dwalla People • 99 
 
 Catholic Church and School, Fernando Po 105 
 
 Catholic School, Eloby Island 105 
 
 A Lagos Mohammedan 112 
 
 A Congo Musician 112 
 
 Boys’ Grammar School, Freetown 134 
 
 Prof. O. Moore, Prin. of Boys’ Grammar School, Freetown, 140 
 G. L. Lutterodt, Photographer, Accra 140 
 
 ( 17 ) 
 
18 List of Maps and Illustrations. 
 
 Paso 
 
 Exterior of Christ’s Church, Lagos 162 
 
 Interior of Christ’s Church, Lagos 162 
 
 Botanical Garden, Victoria 167 
 
 A Street in Bell Town 172 
 
 Prince Manga Bell and Wives 176 
 
 A Cape Lopez Girl 176 
 
 C. S. Smith and His Adopted Family of 1) walla Children.. .179 
 
 The African Telephone 183 
 
 A Cameroons Stool 183 
 
 Big Batanga Falls 187 
 
 Government Building, Eloby Island 193 
 
 Gaboon Women 198 
 
 A Congo Girl 198 
 
 Telegraph Building, Gaboon 202 
 
 Mrs. Barbour’s House, Fernando Po 202 
 
 Part View of Cabenda 207 
 
 Noqui, Congo 211 
 
 Matadi, Congo 215 
 
 Native Cemetery, Old Vivi 219 
 
 Cabenda Boys 223 
 
 A Landana Woman and Brothers 223 
 
 Banana Point, Mouth of the Congo River 227 
 
 A Loanda Chief 231 
 
 A Loanda Octoroon 231 
 
 Part View of Landana 236 
 
 Catholic School, St. Antonio, Congo 239 
 
 High Caste Accra People 246 
 
 Accra Men 246 
 
 Inside View of Aruwimi Shield 251 
 
 Outside View of Aruwimi Shield 252 
 
 Monrovia, Liberia 257 
 
 Monument to ex-President Roberts 263 
 
 The Executive Mansion, Monrovia 263 
 
 Mountsurado River, Monrovia 267 
 
 Gen. R. A. Sherman’s Place, Monrovia 267 
 
 War Implements of the Aruwimi People 273 
 
 A Collection of Curios — Domestic Articles 279 
 
 Specimens of Native Cloth, Mats, etc 283 
 
PART FIRST 
 
REV. GEORGE DECKER. PROF. H. M. STEADY. 
 
 REV. J. R. FREDERICK. MR. GEORGE BOYLE. 
 
 C. S. SMITH. 
 
 [From a photograph taken at Free Town, Sierra Leone.] 
 
CHAPTER I, 
 
 Preliminary Statements. 
 
 To see Africa from America is one thing; 
 
 To see Africa through books and magazines is one thing ; 
 To see Africa through reports and hearsay is one thing ; 
 To see Africa through dreams and visions is one thing; 
 But to see Africa in Africa is another thing. 
 
 PROPOS of the above, and in order that the 
 
 reader may know what my views were con- 
 cerning Africa before going there, and what a rad- 
 ical change they underwent after reaching there, I 
 have deemed it advisable to reproduce here the 
 subjoined article, which was first printed in the 
 Nashville (Term.) Evening Herald, of January 25, 
 1890. I do not regard any remark or comment 
 necessary, other than to say that I frankly confess 
 to error of judgment, the result of seeing Africa 
 from afar. 
 
 To the Herald: Your issue of the 20th inst. contains an edito- 
 rial on Africa’s future which in my opinion embraces the most 
 candid expressions that I have ever read concerning the pur- 
 pose of the Caucasian to ultimately dominate that land. From 
 the editorial referred to I cptote the following : “ Humanitarians 
 may mourn over the fact, but the irrepressible, land-seeking 
 Caucasian has set his eyes upon Africa, and he is going to pos- 
 sess it, in the full sense of the word.” In this statement you 
 express but a part of the truth, so far as it concerns the ambi- 
 tion of the Caucasian. Not only has the Caucasian set his eyes 
 upon Africa, but upon every other part of the world which is 
 
 ( 21 ) 
 
22 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 not at this time in his control and possession. I give you full 
 credit for stating even half of the truth concerning the purpose 
 of the Caucasian to attain to universal domination. I postulate 
 that if Caucasian civilization is to be the last cycle in the evo- 
 lution of civilization, its influence will become everywhere dom- 
 inant, and its arms universally triumphant. The Caucasian 
 now holds in his hands the destiny of the world. Blot out 
 Caucasian civilization, and all that is worth preserving in liter- 
 ature, art, science, etc., would be lost— that is, speaking from 
 the standpointof modern achievements. I glory in all thatthe 
 Caucasian has achieved for civilization and the world’s advance- 
 ment. I do not believe, however, that Caucasian civilization is 
 to be the last cycle in the evolution of the world’s civilization. 
 I believe it is to be superseded by another cycle in the evolu- 
 tion of civilization, which will perhaps be the last that the 
 world will witness. The Caucasian may be said to be the Je- 
 hovah of the civilization of this age, and if he is not om- 
 niscient he is omnipotent and omnipresent. Of course I do 
 not use the terms “omnipotent” and “omnipresent” toward 
 the Caucasian in the same sense as they are used in referring 
 to the Deity. 
 
 Man is limited in his powers and possibilities. Tn every age 
 of the world some one tribe, race, or nation has led all the oth- 
 er tribes, races, or nations. The Caucasian is now in the lead 
 — in the zenith of his glory and power. Standing upon the pin- 
 nacle of his achievements, he can fairly repeat the saying as- 
 cribed to Robinson Crusoe: “I am monarch of all I survey.” 
 Still, while that “ Divinity that shapes our ends, rough-hew 
 them as we may,” in the eternal evolution of things has thrown 
 the Caucasian into the front and on top, does it necessarily fol- 
 low that he will always hold the high, commanding position 
 which he occupies to-day? 
 
 I do not believe that the Caucasian will ever dominate Africa. 
 The higher forces of his civilization may prevail there, but they 
 will be controlled and shaped and guided by native Africans. 
 I believe that every race or nation will have its day, and at 
 some time in the evolution of the world’s civilization reach the 
 ascendency. Africa has not yet had her day — at least I am not 
 
Preliminary Statements. 
 
 23 
 
 able to discover historical evidence to the contrary that has 
 been satisfactory to me. I am a firm believer in the prophetic 
 announcement that “the last shall be the first,” and that Ethi- 
 opia, or the “ Dark Continent,” shall yet stretch forth her hands 
 unto God. 
 
 Some years ago representatives of the leading European 
 powers held a conference, or congress, and carved out the rich- 
 est and most fertile portions of Central Africa into what is now 
 knowm as the Congo Free State, and this they did without con- 
 sulting the aborigines of Africa as to their wishes in the matter. 
 In fact, the “land-seeking Caucasian” said nothing to them 
 about it in any manner, shape, or form. Thousands of miles 
 away from Africa, inspired and led by the King of Belgium, 
 they issued their dictum as to its future, and took possession 
 of the fairest part of that land without warrant or deed. The 
 success of their self-assumption in the matter is yet to be 
 attested. 
 
 Tbe actual population of Africa has not yet been made known, 
 but tbe best authorities agree that its unmixed population num- 
 bers at least 200,000,000. This number of people, occupying 
 their own soil, constitutes a power that is not to be despised or 
 easily overcome. Certain tribes of Africa, now in their savage 
 state, have already made England, Germany, and France anx- 
 ious as to the permanency of their present possessions in that 
 land. I differ from you in the statement that the millions of 
 blacks in this country, should they desire to go to Africa, would 
 not be welcomed there. The world concedes the right of the Af- 
 rican and his descendants to dwell in Africa; and if the millions 
 of blacks in this country ever attain to true manhood, freedom, 
 and independence, it will be in the land of their ancestors. In 
 the evolution of the w'orld’s forces, in the shaping of its destiny, 
 we must never forget that Providence is the controlling force. 
 There will be no immediate emigration of blacks in large num- 
 bers from America to Africa. They have not yet passed through 
 the forty years of their wilderness state since their emancipa- 
 tion. The old slave class will continue until death to sigh for 
 the good old times that are passed, while the old master class 
 will not voluntarily consent to see them exiled from their hum- 
 
24 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ble cabins on the old plantations. Many of the rising genera- 
 tion may be content to black boots and clean spittoons in the 
 service of white employers, but there will be a class with edu- 
 cated minds, trained hands, and manly hearts, who will refuse 
 to have these qualities forever dwarfed by the overshadowing 
 presence of the Caucasian. This class will as naturally and as 
 voluntarily turn their faces toward Africa as do certain birds on 
 the approach of winter leave their northern homes for sunny 
 climes. 
 
 The establishment of the Republic of Liberia on the West 
 Coast of Africa, by American statesmen and philanthropists, 
 was not an accident. Those who led in that movement built 
 wiser than they knew'. The Republic of Liberia controls a 
 stretch of country sufficient to give more than foi ty acres of land 
 to the head of every Afro-American family. Its interior pos- 
 sessions are as fertile and as healthy as any portion of Africa. 
 In America the Negroes, as a class, will never be anything more 
 than servants and scullions. In my opinion there is no section 
 of the country where the white man will ever admit the Negro 
 to termsof industrial, commercial, and political equality. Doubt- 
 less Israel would not have left Egypt of their own accord, and 
 even before they had reached the Red Sea they hungered and 
 sighed for the leeks and onions with which their oppressors had 
 fed them. Thousandsof Negroes seem to abhor the very name 
 of Africa, by reason of their love for the old home and the mem- 
 ories of early days; while thousands of others, deceived by 
 flattering if not false friends, comfort themselves with the hope 
 (which can only end in despair) that the Caucasian in America 
 will at last embrace them in their arms, and take them into full 
 partnership in industrial, commercial, social, and political lines. 
 
 This is only a brief outline of my views touching the subject 
 referred to, and I conclude by thanking you for your honest 
 and candid expressions as to the purpose and ambition of the 
 Caucasian to dominate Africa, to which 1 will also add the 
 whole w 7 orld. C. S. Smith. 
 
 January 24, 1890 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Europe in Africa. 
 
 T HE four years 1891 to 1894 have seen a great 
 advance of Europe in Africa, and many “ spheres 
 of influence ” have been precisely defined. 
 
 Serious efforts have also been made to develop 
 the resources of the vast regions which European 
 Powers have undertaken to lift upward to a higher 
 plane of civilization. If the successes achieved 
 have not often been sufficiently great to satisfy the 
 more impatient spirits, and if the means employed 
 have in man}' instances failed to gain the approval 
 of “philanthropists,” it must nevertheless be ad- 
 mitted that real progress has been made in several 
 directions. 
 
 For proof that the European conscience is alive 
 to its duty toward the African, we may refer to the 
 “General Act” of the Anti-Slavery Conference, 
 which met at Brussels in 1891. This “Act” ap- 
 plies to the whole of Africa, from Latitude 20° 
 North to Latitude 22° South, and is more especial- 
 ly directed to the suppression of the slave trade in 
 the interior, the prohibition of the importation of 
 firearms, and the restriction of the trade in alco- 
 holic drinks. An International Slavery Commis- 
 sion, constituted in accordance with this “Act,” 
 
 (27) 
 
28 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 met for the first time at Zanzibar, in November, 
 1892, under the presidency of Sir Geral Portal. 
 
 We begin our survey of the European Possessions 
 in Africa with those of Great Britain. 
 
 The British Possessions in Africa fall into four 
 groups, viz., British Guinea, South Africa, Eastern 
 Africa, and the African Islands. Though inferior 
 to “ French Africa ” in area, the British Possessions 
 

 
 
FREETOWN, SIERRA LEONE (BRITISH). 
 
Europe in Africa. 
 
 31 
 
 far exceed it in population, and probably also in 
 their potential capacities. Although the old colo- 
 nies on the Guinea Coast have been shut off from 
 their “Hinterland,” or back countries, through the 
 energetic action of France, and in Eastern Africa 
 a large territory complacently looked upon as a 
 natural inheritance of this country has been surren- 
 dered to Germany, there still remains a large area 
 in this quarter (Ibea), in addition to the Niger ter- 
 ritories, with millions of semi-civilized natives, and 
 South Africa, the only part of the dark continent 
 lit to become the permanent home of a northern 
 race. The question whether Tropical Africa is lit 
 for the permanent residence of Europeans is most 
 likely to be settled by an advance from the South. 
 Even now British South Africa, with the allied 
 Boer States, has a European population of 650,000 
 souls, as compared with 510,000 Europeans in Alge- 
 ria and Tunis; and while most of the former are 
 bona fide settlers, the European population of the 
 French dependencies includes quite a dispropor- 
 tionate number of military men and functionaries. 
 
 Commercially the preponderance of “British Af- 
 rica” is marked. The total trade of Africa has 
 been estimated at about $235,000,000 of imports, 
 and the same value of exports; of these $95,000,000 
 of imports and $90,000,000 of exports are due to 
 British Africa, while French A frica imports $70,- 
 000,000 and exports $60,000,000. 
 
 Nearly all the boundaries of tbe British Posses- 
 sions have been defined. The following is a state- 
 
32 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 meat of the British Possessions and Protectorates 
 in Africa : 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 In. to Sq. M. 
 
 
 4,120 
 27 730 
 
 60,000 
 
 480,000 
 
 1,800,000 
 
 3,000,000 
 
 24,380,000 
 
 15 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 52 990 
 
 38 
 
 
 21 100 
 
 143 
 
 Niger Territories & Oil Rivers. 
 
 375,190 
 
 65 
 
 
 481,130 
 
 29,720,000 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 225 690 
 
 1,800,000 
 
 550.000 
 
 200.000 
 220,000 
 
 60,400 
 
 100,000 
 
 400,000 
 
 3,000,000 
 
 8 
 
 Natal 
 
 16,740 
 
 4.540 
 
 33 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 10,290 
 
 54,610 
 
 117,860 
 
 252,880 
 
 285,900 
 
 21 
 
 British Bechuana Land 
 
 Bechuana Land Protectorate. . 
 Matebele and Mashona Lands. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 975,510 
 
 6,330,400 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Zanzibar and Pemba (Protect- 
 orate ) 
 
 960 
 
 210,000 
 
 219 
 
 Ibea to 10° N 6° N 
 
 449,570 
 
 218,110 
 
 1,382 
 
 67,000 
 
 4.500.000 
 
 1.858.000 
 10,000 
 
 200,000 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 Ibea 6° to 10° N 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 British East Africa 
 
 741,300 
 
 6,778.000 
 
 
 
 D 
 
 Mauritius and Dependencies . 
 St. Helena, Ascension, and 
 Tristan da.flnnha.. 
 
 1,090 
 
 126 
 
 395,000 
 
 4,300 
 
 363 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 
 
 British Africa 
 
 2,199,160 
 
 43,227,700 
 
 20 
 
 
 French Africa . — Prance is at the present time the 
 claimant to the largest area in Africa, and there are 
 not wanting enthusiasts in that country who dream 
 
PART VIEW OF LIBREVILLE, GABOON (FRENCH). 
 
Europe in Africa. 
 
 35 
 
 of the foundation of an African Empire stretching 
 from the Mediterranean to the Congo, and thence 
 to the Nile. England has conceded liberty to France 
 to occupy the whole of the Sahara to the north of 
 a line extending from near Sai on the Niger to Lake 
 Tchad, leaving the whole of the Gando, Sokoto, 
 and Bornu within the British sphere. French ter- 
 ritory is thus made continuous from Algeria to the 
 Niger, but no attempt has as yet been made to oc- 
 cupy this vast and inhospitable region. 
 
 The schemes of Mons. G. Bolland, and of others, 
 who propose to build Saharan railways to Lake 
 Tchad and Timbuctoo, are not likely to he favora- 
 bly entertained for a considerable time to come. 
 But, putting aside all these Utopian schemes, it 
 must nevertheless be conceded that France is mak- 
 ing serious and successful efforts to extend and con- 
 solidate her African Possessions. 
 
 This is more especially the case in Senegambia, 
 the Western Soudan, and on the Guinea Coast, 
 where the British colonies of Gambia and Sierra 
 Leone are already surrounded by French territory, 
 arid a similar fate seems to be in store for the Gold 
 Coast. The colonial expenditure of France is very 
 considerable. Algeria alone between 1830-88 cost 
 $700,000,000, and it is difficult to say what the an- 
 nual deficit amounts to now. The expenditure on 
 the other African colonies exceeds their revenues 
 to the extent of $4,515,000. 
 
 The French territories in Africa are as follows: 
 
36 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 In. to Sq. M. 
 
 Algeria 
 
 309,580 
 
 4,175,000 
 
 13 
 
 Tunis 
 
 50,840 
 
 1,500,000 
 
 3o 
 
 Sahara 
 
 1,083,550 
 
 2,500,000 
 
 1.5 
 
 Senegambia, Guinea, Soudan. 
 
 481 ,530 
 
 8,200,000 
 
 17 
 
 French Congo 
 
 490,920 
 
 8,950,000 
 
 18 
 
 Wadi, Bagirmi, Kaueru 
 
 105,650 
 
 3,730,000 
 
 23 
 
 Obok (Taj ura Bay) 
 
 8,040 
 
 30,000 
 
 3 
 
 to adagascar and Dependencies 
 
 228,560 
 
 3 500,000 
 
 15 
 
 Comoros 
 
 760 
 
 62,000 
 
 81 
 
 .Reunion 
 
 760 
 
 168,000 
 
 221 
 
 French Africa.. 
 
 3,426,790 
 
 32,815,000 
 
 10 
 
 Spanish Af rica. — Spain, in addition to the Canaries, 
 the “ Presidios ” (Tetnan, and other coast places in 
 northern Morocco), Ifni (ceded by Morocco in 1883, 
 but not occupied), and Fernando Po and other is- 
 lands in the Gulf of Guinea, also claims a large slice 
 of theWestern Sahara. In 1884 and 1886thewhole 
 of the coast from Cape Blanco to the Boca Grande 
 (28° 20' H.) was declared a Protectorate. In 1886 
 treaties with inland tribes (Adrar) were made, and 
 a boundary treaty concluded with France, which 
 defines the parallel of 21° 21' FL, as separating the 
 Possessions of the two Powers. The only Spanish 
 settlement within this region is at the Bio cle Oro 
 (23° 30' FT.), and this is fa. interior to the English 
 factories established at Cape Juby long before the 
 Spaniards were heard of, but never officially recog- 
 nized, and quite recently at the Sagiat el Hamra. 
 
 In the Gulf of Guinea Spain holds the islands of 
 Fernando Po, Annobom, Corisco, and Eloby; but 
 her claim to a considerable territory on the main- 
 
FERNANDO PO ISLAND (SPANISH). 
 

 
 
 
 
 
39 
 
 Europe v in Africa. 
 
 land in Corisco Bay lias been successfully disputed 
 by France. By an agreement between the two coun- 
 tries (January, 1891), the Spanish claim is limited 
 to Cape San Juan, but Spanish vessels and traders 
 are freely permitted to navigate the rivers Benito 
 and Muni. 
 
 The Spanish territories in Africa are as follows : 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 In. to Sq. M. 
 
 
 2,820 
 
 292.000 
 16,000 
 
 100.000 
 35,000 
 
 104 
 
 Tptnun TCtc. (Morocco) 
 
 30 
 
 533 
 
 
 150,100 
 
 884 
 
 1 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 153,834 
 
 443,000 
 
 3 
 
 
 German Africa. — German rule in Africa only 
 dates from 1884, in which year the late Dr. SFach- 
 tigal hoisted the German flag at various points 
 along the West Coast, while Dr. Peters negotiated 
 “ treaties” with a number of chiefs at the back of 
 the Zanzibar Coast. The conventions subsequent- 
 ly concluded with England (1884, 1885,1886, 1889, 
 1890,1893), Portugal (1886), and France (1885, 1894), 
 leave Germany in possession of four distinct colo- 
 nies. Togo Land, which is hemmed in between 
 the British Gold Coast and French Benin, is the 
 least of these, although the most densely peopled. 
 Its northern boundary has not yet been defined. 
 
 In the Cameroons territory the cultivation of 
 coffee and cocoa has been successfully introduced, 
 
40 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Several stations have been established in the inte- 
 rior, as in virtue of a treaty with France this 
 “ sphere” now stretches northward as far as Lake 
 Tchad. 
 
 The countries of the Kama and Damara, in South- 
 western Africa, appear to have disappointed expec- 
 tation. A German “ Colonial Society” which had 
 been entrusted with their development exhausted 
 its resources without having achieved the slightest 
 success. 
 
 In German East Africa, after the Sultan of Zan- 
 zibar had reluctantly ceded the whole of the coast 
 on payment of $1,000,000 (November 20, 1890), the 
 administration was placed in the able hands of Ma- 
 jor Wissmann, as Imperial Commissioner, a post 
 transferred in April, 1891, to Baron Soden, and 
 again, in September, 1893, to Colonel Scheie. Since 
 then considerable progress has been made, notwith- 
 standing repeated conflicts with some of the native 
 tribes, the most serious of which culminated in the 
 almost total annihilation of an expeditionary force 
 under Lieutenant Zelewski by the Wahehe (August 
 17.1891). 
 
 The total trade of all German Africa (imports 
 and exports) does not exceed at present $7,215,000, 
 and of this only $2,875,000 is direct with Germany. 
 The line of steamers sailing from Hamburg to East- 
 ern Africa does not pay, notwithstanding a consid- 
 erable Imperial subsidy. 
 
 The German territories in Africa are as follows: 
 
PART VIEW OF CAMEROONS TOWN, CAMEROONS RIVER (GERMAN). 
 

 
 \ 
 
 
 
 - 'S.',. ■ - • ?-• 
 
Europe in Africa. 43 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 Togo Land (Guinea Coast) 
 
 * 
 
 19,660 
 
 800,000 
 
 4.570.000 
 200,000 
 
 2.800.000 
 
 Cameroons 
 
 193,570 
 
 S. W. Africa (Nama and Damara) 
 
 320,540 
 
 351,040 
 
 East Africa, with Mafia 
 
 
 German Afi-ica 
 
 884,810 
 
 8,370,000 
 
 Portuguese Africa ,. — Recent treaties with France 
 (May 12, 1886), Germany (December 30, 1886), Bel- 
 gium (May 25, 1891, and June 26, 1893), and En- 
 gland (May 28, 1891, and May 21, 1893), have con- 
 siderably curtailed the “ Possessions” at one time 
 claimed by Portugal. But though these Posses- 
 sions are twenty-five times the size of the mother 
 country, their “government ” entails an annual loss 
 of $885,000, and the development of their resources 
 is quite beyond the means of so small a country. 
 In the meantime Portugal lias not unsuccessfully 
 striven to attract foreign capital to her colonies. In 
 Angola a railway from Luanda to Ambaca (188 
 miles) has been nearly completed by an English 
 company. Another railway, from Delagoa Bay to 
 the border of the South African Republic (57 miles), 
 has been built by an Anglo-American company, 
 but is now the property of the Portuguese govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The Portuguese territories in Africa are as fol- 
 lows: 
 
44 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 In. to Sq. M. 
 
 Cape Verde Islands 
 
 1,490 
 
 111,000 
 
 74 
 
 Guinea 
 
 14,970 
 
 200,000 
 
 5 
 
 S, Thome a Principe 
 
 420 
 
 21,000 
 
 50 
 
 Cabenda 
 
 2,030 
 
 30,000 
 
 15 
 
 Angola 
 
 515,670 
 
 3,610,000 
 
 7 
 
 East Africa 
 
 297,750 
 
 1,500,000 
 
 5 
 
 Portuguese Africa 
 
 826,730 
 
 5,472,000 
 
 7 
 
 Italian Africa . — Italy first became an “African 
 Power” by the occupation of Asab Bay in 1880. 
 Since then she has gradually extended her influ- 
 ence, until her “sphere,” recognized by treaties with 
 England (March 14 and April 15, 1891, and May 5, 
 1894), extends over 548,880 square miles, with an 
 estimated population of 5,150,000 souls. Massawa 
 was occupied in 1885, much to the vexation of King 
 John of Abyssinia, whose troops inflicted a severe 
 defeat upon the Italians at Sageneti in 1888. But 
 cordial relations were established after the death of 
 this Emperor, and on the accession of King Mene- 
 1 i k of Shoa, whose friendship the Italians had care- 
 fully cultivated, Count Antonelli, on May 2, 1889, 
 concluded the treaty of Ujali, by which Abyssinia 
 not only ceded Hamasen, Keren, and other districts 
 on the tableland of Tigre, but also intrusted Italy 
 with the management of Abyssinia’s foreign rela- 
 tions. The interpretation of this “Protection” 
 clause subsequently led to serious differences of 
 opinion ; and, although a new treaty was concluded 
 (February, 1891), which further regulates the bound- 
 
ST. PAUL DE LOANDA (PORTUGUESE). 
 
Europe in Africa. 
 
 47 
 
 aries, and in which Italy promises to guarantee an 
 Abyssinian loan of $800,000, these differences do 
 not appear to have been settled, and the Negus de- 
 nounced the treaty in 1893. 
 
 On February 1, 1890, the Italian Possessions on 
 the Red Sea were organized as a colony, under the 
 appropriate name of “ Eritrea.” This colony, in- 
 clusive of the important town of Kasala, occupied 
 after a severe fight with the Mahdi’s forces, em- 
 braces 84,950 square miles, with 450,000 inhabitants, 
 and is held by a military force of 220 officers and 
 6,100 men. 
 
 Short railways (twenty miles in all) connect Mas- 
 sawa with Saati and Arkiko. On the eastern Somal 
 Coast Italy first gained a footing in 1889, when the 
 Sultans of the Mijertin and ot Obbia placed them- 
 selves under her protection ; and since the conven- 
 tions with England (1891 and 1894) her pretensions 
 to the greater part of Somaliland have been recog- 
 nized. It should always be borne in mind that 
 France has been no party to the treaties between 
 Great Britain and Italy, and objects more especial- 
 ly to the inclusion of Harar, now occupied by King 
 Menelik, in the Italian sphere. 
 
 The Congo State, founded in 1884 by the King 
 of the Belgians, has virtually become a Belgian col- 
 ony since August 2, 1889,* on which day the Belgian 
 Chambers voted a subsidy of $5,000,000, payable 
 
 • February, 1895, the Congo Free State Association transferred 
 all its claims and rights to Belgium, and the Congo Free State 
 is now a Belgian colony de facto. 
 
48 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 in ten annual installments. The boundaries of the 
 state have fur the most part been defined by treat- 
 ies with Germany (1884), France (1885, 1887, and 
 1894), Britain (1894), and Portugal (1891 and 1893). 
 
 If we bear in mind what the Congo region was 
 when Stanley first traversed it, we are bound to 
 admit that considerable progress has been made. 
 The exports of the state have increased from $396,- 
 100 in 1887 to 81,502,960 in 1898. 
 
 Of the railway which is to connect Matadi with 
 Stanley Pool, only 40 miles have been completed 
 out of a total of 266; but thirty-five steamers now 
 navigate the Upper Congo. There are thirty-eight 
 government stations, held by an organized force of 
 •3,520 men, besides numerous European factories 
 and missionary stations. 
 
 Boer States. — Lastly, there are two Boer Repub- 
 lics — the South African Republic (Transvaal) and 
 the Orange Free State, together with Swaziland, 
 which by an agreement of November 12, 1892, is 
 to be transferred to the South African Republic. 
 The whole, since the formation of a South African 
 Customs Union, may truly lie said to lie within the 
 British sphere of “ interests.” 
 
 Summary . — In conclusion, we present an estimate 
 of the total population of Africa. If it is borne in 
 mind that hardly eight millions of this population 
 have been enumerated, while for the whole of the 
 remainder we are dependent upon conflicting state- 
 ments of travelers and residents, it must be obvious 
 that such an estimate can only claim to be an approx- 
 
49 
 
 Europe in Africa. 
 
 imation. Accepting the figures as given below, it 
 will be found that the number ot people to a square 
 mile only amounts to twelve in Africa, as compared 
 to ninety-five in Europe. The number of Europe- 
 ans and persons of European descent throughout 
 Continental Africa may be estimated at 1,110,000, 
 viz., 448,000 in Northern Africa, 640,000 in South- 
 ern Africa, and 22,000 in Tropical Africa. 
 
 The following is the estimated Area and Popula- 
 tion of Africa : 
 
 
 Sq. Miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 In. to Sq. M. 
 
 British Africa 
 
 2,119,160 
 
 43,227,700 
 
 20 
 
 Portuguese Africa 
 
 826,730 
 
 5,472,000 
 
 7 
 
 French Africa 
 
 3,426,790 
 
 32,819,000 
 
 10 
 
 Spanish Africa 
 
 153,830 
 
 443,000 
 
 3 
 
 German Africa 
 
 884,810 
 
 8,370,000 
 
 9 
 
 Italian Africa 
 
 548,880 
 
 5,150,000 
 
 8 
 
 Congo State 
 
 905,090 
 
 16,300,000 
 
 18 
 
 Boer States and Swaziland. . . . 
 
 177,750 
 
 764,000 
 
 4 
 
 European Africa 
 
 9,123,040 
 
 112,545,700 
 
 12 
 
 Morocco 
 
 154 500 
 
 6 000 000 
 
 30 
 
 Tripoli and Fezzan 
 
 338,470 
 
 logo’, 000 
 
 3 
 
 Egypt 
 
 349,170 
 
 7,600,000 
 
 22 
 
 The Mahdi’s Dominion to KPN 
 
 609.300 
 
 5,800,000 
 
 9 
 
 Liberia * 
 
 51,970 
 
 1,000,000 
 
 19 
 
 Unappropriated East Sahara . 
 
 673,230 
 
 60,000 
 
 
 Unappropriated W est Soudan. 
 
 155,650 
 
 2,800,000 
 
 18 
 
 Lakes Tchad, Victoria, Tan- 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ganvika, Nyasa, Mwera, and 
 
 [ 70,480 
 
 
 
 Albert 
 
 
 
 All Africa 
 
 11,525,810 
 
 136,805,700 
 
 12 
 
 * The last treaty with Prance has reduced the Liberian territory to about 
 45,000 square miles. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Purpose of The European in Africa. 
 
 I F I ever had any doubt as to the purpose of the 
 European to establish permanent control over 
 his Possessions and Protectorates in Africa, that 
 doubt has most effectually been dispelled. When 
 representatives of the various European Powers as- 
 sembled in Berlin, in 1874, looking to establishing 
 the autonomy of the Congo Free State, and after 
 they had reached an agreement on matters pertain- 
 ing to the partitioning of Africa, it became a ques- 
 tion in my mind as to whether division necessarily 
 implied possession — i. e., whether the partitioning 
 of Africa was not a scheme on paper, rather than 
 an actuality. During my meanderings along the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa, and in its 
 rivers, I was keenly observant of the present posi- 
 tion of the several European Powers, wherever 
 their unfurled flags betokened their supremacy. I 
 confess that I had not the remotest idea that the 
 European was so well entrenched in his African 
 Possessions as I found him to be. Waiving the 
 presentation of all incidental questions, I am pre- 
 pared to state that, in my opinion, the European 
 is in Africa to stay, and that there are no condi- 
 tions likely to arise which will dislodge him short 
 of miraculous interference. 
 
 (50) 
 
IMPERIAL BARRACKS, FREETOWN, SIERRA LEONE. 
 

 
 ! 
 
 
The Purpose of The European in Africa. 53 
 
 The Europeans in Africa may be divided into 
 two classes — Propagationists and Extermination- 
 ists. By Propagationists I mean those Powers 
 that are willing to allow the natives within their 
 Possessions to retain their ancient domains, sub- 
 ject to the influences and demands of organized 
 government, and to recognize the natives as aids 
 and allies in the development of the natural re- 
 sources of their respective Possessions. The Ex- 
 terminationists are those Powers that want to 
 transport the indigent element of their home 
 countries to their Possessions in Africa ; in other 
 words, to displace the natives with European col- 
 onists. Under the head of the former I place the 
 British and the French, and under the head of the 
 latter the Germans and the Belgians. 
 
 The influence of the British on the West Coast 
 of Africa is far more conserving of the interests 
 of the natives than that of any other European 
 Power, and the natives under the sway of Great 
 Britain, in that region, have the promise of a pro- 
 longed lease of undisturbed existence; and it is 
 probable that in the course of time, under proper 
 conditions, she may develop an Anglo-African De- 
 pendency by the civilization and enlightenment 
 ot the native peoples within the bounds of her 
 West African Colonies, which would give her an 
 Anglo-African Dependency equal in numerical 
 strength to the present population of England and 
 Wales — a Dependency which might prove a strong 
 adjunct to her military prowess. The shadows on 
 
54 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 the sundial of the past and present British accom- 
 plishments for the uplifting and advancement ot 
 the native peoples within her West African do- 
 mains seem to me to be the promise and prophecy 
 of her continued effort to redeem West Africa from 
 the grasp of barbarism, and to lift the long-be- 
 nighted masses into the light of civilization and 
 progress. This she may do by way of compensa- 
 tion for her less considerate treatment of the na- 
 tives in her Possessions in Southern Africa and 
 Matebeleland. However, should the time ever 
 arise when Great Britain shall find herself in need 
 of her West African Colonies for the settlement of 
 her own people, and become pressed with the 
 question of allowing them to starve at home, or 
 giving them a chance to live in Africa — even pes- 
 tilential Western Africa — I believe that she would 
 choose the latter alternative. 
 
 Great Britain, through governmental agencies, 
 the Church Missionary Society, the Wesleyan Mis- 
 sionary Society, and kindred associations, has al- 
 ready shorn hundreds and thousands of the natives 
 of their ancestral barbaric rites and customs, and 
 invested them with the habiliments of Christian 
 civilization and enlightenment. Already institu- 
 tions, under the fostering care and protection of 
 British influence, have developed among the na- 
 tives intelligent minds and skilled hands in no 
 small number. 
 
 The establishing of a Franco- African Empire 
 has been the dream of France for many years. In 
 
REPAIRING TELEPHONE WIRES AT GABOON. CONGOLESE SOLDIERS. 
 
The Purpose of The European in Africa. 57 
 
 the extent of the area of her African Possessions, 
 France leads all the other European Powers. The 
 population, however, is not so large as that em- 
 braced in the sphere of British influence. France 
 is most energetic and active in pushing her African 
 enterprises, and unstinting in her outlay of money 
 in extending and enlarging her commerce and es- 
 tablishing places of strong defense. At Gaboon 
 she has the most magnificent set of public build- 
 ings to he found any where on the West and South- 
 west Coast of Africa, Loanda alone excepted. She 
 is now projecting a railroad from Loango to her 
 Upper Congo territory, which is a shorter and 
 more direct route than the Congo River affords. 
 
 It is said that France is harsh in her treatment 
 of the natives. I was not able, however, to satisfy 
 myself in respect to this. I noticed quite a force 
 of native soldiers stationed at Gaboon. 
 
 French Catholic missionaries are doing good 
 work in educating native children at Gaboon, Lo- 
 ango, and other places in the French Possessions 
 in Southwest Africa. I had less opportunity for 
 observing the movements and disposition of the 
 French than that of any other European Power 
 whose Possessions I visited. I observed a number 
 of natives in Gaboon engaged in various industrial 
 pursuits — such as blasting and trimming stone, 
 erecting buildings, repairing telephone wires, and 
 performing various kinds of labor in a large ma- 
 chine shop. From my observations at Gaboon, 1 
 should say that the French, though accused of 
 
58 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 great cruelty toward the natives, are contributing 
 more or less of a helpful influence toward their 
 civilization and enlightenment. To be fah’ly ac- 
 quainted with the present movements and position 
 of the French in their various Possessions and 
 Protectorates in Africa, one must have recourse to 
 French literature. 
 
 The Exterminationists — the Germans and the 
 Belgians — are evidently giving a good deal of at- 
 tention to devising methods for effectually deci- 
 mating the natives — in plain words, exterminating 
 them. Their conduct toward the natives may be 
 justly referred to as cruel and heartless in the ex- 
 treme. They think the natives have no rights 
 which they are bound to respect. They want the 
 land of the natives for the settlement of their own 
 people, and they regard the first step necessary to 
 he taken is to “kill off the savages.” The exter- 
 mination of the natives will not he immediate. 
 Their presence will he tolerated so long as their 
 labor is needed in making internal improvements 
 — such as building forts, fortifications, and govern- 
 ment piers, erecting government buildings, con- 
 structing railroads, and facilitating the movements 
 of expeditions through the country by establishing 
 public roads. In a word, they will be required to 
 do whatever may be regarded as necessary to pre- 
 pare the way for the coming of the poor kith and 
 kin of the invading Powers who have taken pos- 
 session of their country by the rule of might. 
 
 I am aware that this opinion will be generally 
 
The Purpose of The European in Africa. 59 
 
 scoffed at; that the probability of Europeans set- 
 tling' in large numbers in any part of Equatorial 
 Africa will be ridiculed. However, if the Germans 
 do not look forward to the settlement of their in- 
 digent masses in the highlands of the Cameroons 
 country, and the Belgians to the settlement ot 
 their indigent masses in the highlands and grass- 
 lands of the upper regions of the Congo Free 
 State, then why are they investing millions of dol- 
 lars in establishing means ot defense, and in in- 
 ternal improvements ? And why are they pushing 
 the establishment of these enterprises with una- 
 bated vigor and activity ? Nothing seems to deter 
 them. Though hundreds have been smitten with 
 the African fever, and found their graves in Af- 
 rican soil, the ranks thus decimated are speedily 
 tilled with fresh recruits. They have already sub- 
 jected many of the natives to a state of enforced 
 servitude, so as to expedite the improvement of 
 the country. Now, if African trade and commerce 
 are the only forces which impel these invaders, it 
 is neither necessary to their purpose for them to 
 invest millions of dollars in improvements and 
 fortifications, nor to reduce the natives to virtual 
 slavery, for the native African is by instinct a 
 trader, and he delights in barter. It is estimated 
 that there are now 22,000 Europeans living in 
 Tropical Africa — a thing which a few years ago 
 was deemed absolutely impossible. 
 
 It is impossible to indicate the purposes and 
 policy of the Spanish and Portuguese in Africa. 
 
60 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 The former has only island Possessions — Fernando 
 Po, Annobom, Corisco, and Eloby — all located in 
 Southwest Africa. They claim a strip off the 
 mainland in Corisco Bay, but their claim to that 
 is disputed by the French. The island of Fer- 
 nando Po is a most valuable Possession, and in 
 the hands of an energetic and progressive people 
 could be made to yield large returns for whatever 
 investment might be made in its improvement. 
 The land seems to be highly adapted to cocoa rais- 
 ing, and is especially prolilic in the production of 
 yams, which are noted near and far for their choice 
 quality as an article of food. Many ships turn out 
 of their regular course and enter Clarence Bay 
 for the purpose of getting a supply of Fernando 
 Po yams. The islands of Annobom, Eloby, and 
 Corisco are of no special importance. The latter, 
 though, is strikingly attractive, and is, indeed, a 
 gem of the ocean. There is not a European 
 among its inhabitants. 
 
 Unfortunately, the Portuguese Possessions are 
 too large and valuable for such a degenerate and 
 retrogressi ve people. It may be truly said of Por- 
 tugal that she “was the. in the beginning, is now, 
 and ever will be ” a barnacle on the “ Dark Con- 
 tinent.” Her history as a proslavery nation is too 
 well known to need recital. Despite all the treaties 
 which she has made from time to time with other 
 European Powers, pledging herself to the suppres- 
 sion of the slave trade, she still countenances 
 slavery in her African Possessions, and is still a 
 
The Purpose of The European in Africa. 61 
 
 slave trader and a slaveholder. Her methods, 
 though secret, are effectual. Hundreds of natives 
 are at times driven aboard Portuguese ships at Ca- 
 benda, transported to the island of St. Thomas, 
 and forced to labor on the coffee farms. I was re- 
 liably informed that a Portuguese planter near 
 Loanda has one hundred and seventy slaves work- 
 ing his stone quarries and farm lands. The Por- 
 tuguese territory in the Lower Congo and the 
 province of Angola are valuable possessions, from 
 which large quantities of coffee are annually ex- 
 ported. 
 
 Cabenda, beautifully situated on a bay of the 
 same name, is growing in importance. Govern- 
 ment buildings, including a barracks, are under 
 course of erection. Its natural position is very 
 favorable for continued growth in population and 
 in commercial importance. The administration of 
 its colonial affairs is in the hands of local officials. 
 
 St. Paul de Loanda, which is the capital of the 
 Angola district, is fairly fortified, and is a coaling 
 station and a supply depot for Portuguese war ves- 
 sels and merchant ships. There is a railroad, two 
 hundred miles in length, leading from Loanda to 
 the coffee country. In the estimation of the na- 
 tives, the Portuguese is not a European, hut a Por- 
 tuguese white man, which means that the Portu- 
 guese are inferior to the English, French, etc. 
 
 All the civilizing agencies to he found anywhere 
 on the West and Southwest Coast of Africa have 
 been planted by Europeans, and these agencies are 
 
62 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 far more potent and extensive than is generally 
 known. That t lie several European Powers hold- 
 ing Possessions and Protectorates in Africa do not 
 intend to yield the same without stubborn resist- 
 ance is best indicated by the statement that Great 
 Britain keeps a squadron of fourteen war ships in 
 commission to protect her Possessions in Southern 
 and Western Africa; that the French keep a 
 squadron of six war ships on the West and South- 
 west Coast, and that the Germans keep a squadron 
 of eight ships on the West and Southwest Coast. 
 The Bel gians have erected a fort at Boma to guard 
 the Lower Congo region from sudden attack. All 
 the Powers, except the Spanish, keep a standing 
 military force. Sierra Leone, Accra, Lagos, Cam- 
 eroons, St. Thomas, Gaboon, and Loanda, are con- 
 nected with their home governments by cable. 
 Over one hundred steamships ply regularly along 
 the West Coast, while about twenty-five are en- 
 gaged in carrying trade to and from the South- 
 west Coast. 
 
 The following statistics from the Report on the 
 Transactions of the Postoffice Department of the 
 Gold Coast Colony, for 1893, will somewhat serve 
 to partially indicate the extent of the civilizing 
 influences on the West and Southwest Coast of 
 Afri ca : 
 
 Number of letters, unregistered and registered, 
 270,672; official letters, etc., sent on service, 50,- 
 593; ordinary newspapers, book-packets, and cir- 
 culars, 9,788; postal cards, 4,059. 675 steamers 
 
The Purpose of The European in Africa. 63 
 
 arrived with mail, and 625 departed. There were 
 3,608 money orders issued. 
 
 One thing that will strongly incline to anchor 
 tlie European to his African Possessions and Pro- 
 tectorates is his iiope and expectation that some 
 day there will he discovered, somewhere within its 
 bounds, a new source of wealth, unlike and more 
 valuable than any the world has yet known. This 
 hope I found to be latent in the breast of a num- 
 ber of Europeans with whom I conversed. Be- 
 sides, there is the desire for supremacy which 
 international rivalry prompts and promotes. Each 
 Power is not only striving to maintain its present 
 Possessions, but to extend the sphere of its influ- 
 ence. It is no longer a scramble for additional 
 square miles of territory, nor acres, nor yards, but 
 every foot of unoccupied soil is eagerly sought. 
 
 As to matters of general policy, the European 
 Powers are agreed to three things: The suppres- 
 sion of the Arab slave trade, the restriction of 
 the liquor traffic, and the prohibition ot the sale of 
 improved firearms to the natives. There is an ef- 
 fort to carry out the first point of the agreement; 
 the second is woefully neglected, and the third is 
 religiously observed. 
 
 The hopeful feeling of the several European 
 Powers regarding their Possessions and Protector- 
 ates in Africa is clearly and strongly stated in the 
 following extract from an address by His Excel- 
 lency Sir Gilbert T. Carter, Iv. C. M. G., Governor 
 of Lagos, at a banquet given him by the Chamber 
 
64 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 of Commerce of Liverpool, at theAdelphi Hotel, 
 June 16, 1893. He said: 
 
 Gentlemen, there are no doubt many colonies the scenery 
 of which is grander and the climate of which is more beautiful ; 
 but I doubt if there are any colonies on which to-day the pub- 
 lic eye is more keen, or in which theie is more interesting 
 work, than those colonies which have been made through the 
 industry of those connected with trade and commerce, and 
 w hich, if 1 be permitted to say so, much interest has been taken 
 by those officials who work tiierc with zeal and with every 
 good desire, which colonies to-day form the inlets of that great 
 continent, the glories of which are yet unknown. [Applause.] 
 The regions and treasures of that great African continent may 
 remain still buried when we and our children shall be cold in 
 the tomb; but if this world lasts long enough there is no doubt 
 in my mind that these treasures will eventually come to light, 
 and that that great unknown country may, perchance, prove 
 the most valuable country that this world possesses. Let us, 
 then, do all in our power to preserve the Possessions which we 
 now have; let us do all in our power to make them flourish 
 and prosper; let us do all in our power to extend their boun- 
 daries into the interior of that continent; and if we do this, we 
 may rest assured the time is not far distant when we can look 
 upon them and say they are living emblems of the unity, the 
 loyalty, and the greatness of that vast colonial empire over 
 which it has been truly said the sun never sets. [Applause ] 
 

 
REV. AND MRS.. WILSON, VICTORIA. REV WILLIAM BARLEYCORN, FERNANDO PO. 
 
CHAPTER I Yl. 
 
 The African in Africa. 
 
 OR the sake of convenience I will divide the 
 
 i natives of the West and Southwest Coast of 
 Africa into two general classes, viz., the Maritime 
 Tribes, or those who dwell on the coast; and the 
 Hinterland Tribes, or those who dwell in the inte- 
 rior. If mention is made at all of the latter, it 
 will be only incidentally, as I did not mingle to 
 any extent with them, and had only the opportu- 
 nity of observing them as I saw them around the 
 trading places at various points on the coast. The 
 Hinterland Tribes are wholly uncivilized. Along 
 the West Coast the Maritime Tribes may be clas- 
 sified as civilized and uncivilized. On the South- 
 west Coast, with comparatively few exceptions, 
 they are uncivilized. Reference will first he made 
 to the civilized natives. 
 
 Doubtless the greater number of these to be 
 found at any one place on the West and South- 
 west Coast are at Freetown, Sierra Leone, which 
 contains a population of about 35,000. Of this 
 number, I have no means of determining the ratio 
 between the civilized and uncivilized. The popula- 
 tion of Freetown is a combination of many diverse 
 elements. The civilized natives of Sierra Leone, 
 like those of any other community on the West 
 
 ( 67 ) 
 
68 
 
 Glimpses of Af rica. 
 
 and Southwest Coast under the control of Euro- 
 pean influences, may be classed as government offi- 
 cials, professionals, traders, clerks, and middle men. 
 There is by tar a much larger number of the above 
 classes in the British Colonies than are to be found 
 in the Possessions and Protectorates of any of the 
 other European Powers. In Sierra Leone, the Gold 
 Coast, and Lagos Colonies, the number of govern- 
 ment officials, professionals, traders, clerks, and 
 middle men, is surprisingly large. There is also a 
 large number of skilled craftsmen. There are also 
 many wealthy natives in the British Colonies. 
 
 Two types of civilization have found growth 
 and fruitage among the natives — Anglo-Saxon and 
 Arabian. In the development of the passive feel- 
 ings, the powei’s of imitation, self-insufficiency and 
 dependent tendencies, intemperate habits, and a 
 spirit of braggadocio, Anglo-Saxon civilization, as 
 planted and fostered by the British, has out- 
 stripped Arabian civilization. In the development, 
 however, of true manly independence, broad intel- 
 ligence, affability, and temperate habits, Arabian 
 civilization, or Mohammedanism, has surpassed 
 Anglo-Saxon civilization. 
 
 Anglo-Saxon civilization is responsible for many 
 of the vices to which the natives are addicted. It 
 is necessary to understand this, as the civilized na- 
 tives, especially in the British Colonies, are sub- 
 jected to persistent criticism of a very harsh na- 
 ture. In determining the ratio between the virtues 
 and the vices of the civilized natives, in order to 
 
The African in Africa. 
 
 69 
 
 ascertain how far they are responsible for their 
 lack of the former, and for their possession of the 
 latter, it is essential that the character of their 
 teachers and exemplars should be noted. All the 
 noble and ignoble qualities possessed by the civil- 
 ized natives in the British Colonies are the fruits 
 of a graft on the body of their ancestral life from 
 the tree of Anglo-Saxon civilization. The process 
 of development has been going on in the Colony 
 of Sierra Leone since 1787, which is a much longer 
 period than it has been operating in any of the 
 other British Colonies. Unfortunately many of 
 the teachers and exemplars, from whose conduct 
 the natives have imbibed civilizing influences, have 
 been of the most reckless character. The Very 
 Rev. G. H. Chadwick, D. D., Dean of Armagh, 
 in one of his sermons, says : “ There is not a 
 month but thousands of our most dissipated youth, 
 our most unfortunate manhood, our most ignorant 
 and helpless peasantry, venture into lands utterly 
 unknown to them.” Which, alas ! is only too true. 
 I have no desire or disposition to apologize for 
 the shortcomings of the civilized natives. I simply 
 aim to be just, and to accord to them whatever 
 merit they are entitled to, as well as to bestow 
 upon their vicious teachers and exemplars what- 
 ever blame and censure they deserve. To my 
 great surprise I found that, with hut few excep- 
 tions, the Europeans who dwell on the West and 
 Southwest Coast of Africa, or man the ships which 
 navigate the adjacent waters, betray a feeling of 
 
70 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 inveterate hatred toward the civilized native. He 
 is characterized as impudent, indolent, immoral, 
 thievish, lying, and hypocritical— the personifica- 
 tion of unmixed evil. The bushman, or raw na- 
 tive, is praised; the civilized native is damned. 
 ISTow there may he earnest inquiry as to the reason 
 for this. The answer is found iu that inexplicable 
 trait of human nature to despise those most whom 
 we have wronged most. There was a time when 
 all the African tribes were buslimen, when not an 
 individual among them had imbibed, in the least, 
 any of the influences of European civilization. 
 Then it was that trade was highly profitable; when 
 the innocent, unwary, unsuspecting, untutored na- 
 tive could be easily persuaded to part with the 
 most valuable riches for a few glittering trinkets 
 of trifling value; when fabulous fortunes were 
 made in a brief time, and the profits on invest- 
 ments were so certain and so immense that those 
 interested scarcely stopped to compute them. 
 With the enlightenment of the natives, however, 
 a change began to take place along this line. The 
 intelligent native readily began to comprehend 
 that “ for ways that are dark and tricks that are 
 vain,” especially in matters of trade, the Kuropean 
 has no superior; and he began to reason that if 
 such was fit for the white man, it was also fit for 
 the black man. The African is a keen observer, 
 and is readily impressed by object lessons. Hence, 
 when he was led to realize that he was being ruth- 
 lessly cheated and robbed by the white trader, he 
 

The African in Africa. 
 
 73 
 
 naturally followed suit. lie caught the white man 
 lying, and he adopted the same method. He 
 found that the white man lusted after many 
 women — even the disfigured, tattooed, heathenish, 
 fetich worshiping African women — and he was 
 thus reassured of the eminent correctness and pro- 
 priety of his own long established custom of a 
 plurality of wives. The point of difference be- 
 tween the African and European, touching this 
 matter, is that the former has many wives and no 
 concubines; but a large number of the latter have 
 one wife and several concubines. The African, 
 seemingly, is wholly innocent of any wrong in the 
 practice of polygamy, and even the most intelli- 
 gent among them are slow to discern the virtue of 
 monogamy. This accounts for the following state- 
 ment made by Bishop Ingham in his book, “ Sierra 
 Leone After a Hundred Years”: 
 
 We remember of holding a conversation, a few years ago, 
 with an African thinker of repute in Sierra Leone. This gen- 
 tleman affirmed that the Christian churches are living in a 
 false paradise if they think to raise Africa at once to the Chris- 
 tian standard of morality; that organized hypociisy will be the 
 result of enforcing that standard, and that licensed polygamy 
 would undoubtedly be replaced by secret concubinage. He 
 said that some writer had brought out a book in which he 
 marked off a certain zone within which monogamy will not 
 live, and that the greater part of Africa is in that zone. He 
 pleaded for a period of preparation for Christianity to be granted 
 to the race, such as the Jewish system afforded the emanci- 
 pated Israelites. He thought that either Moharamedani>m 
 must be that intermediate step, or that the Church should 
 lower her standard slightly so as to stoop the better to lilt 
 them up. 
 
74 
 
 Glimpses of Af rica. 
 
 That the civilized African is manifestly lacking 
 in his comprehension and appreciation of the code 
 of Moral Ethics, formulated and promulgated Ly 
 Christian philosophers, there can be no doubt. 
 However, as civilization is a plant of slow growth, 
 and as many of the teachers and exemplars of the 
 civilized African have been most vicious and cor- 
 rupt, his present improved status should be com- 
 mended rather than condemned. In the progress 
 of civilizing influences among the African-s, it is 
 true of him, as it is of other races, that the stream 
 cannot rise above its source. These facts I have 
 referred to because every visitor to Africa will have 
 many evil reports of the civilized African poured 
 into his ears. 
 
 A close observer cannot help but feel that the 
 civilized African lias not met the expectations of 
 his benefactors. lie seems to be lacking in several 
 points of sterling worth and excellency. He does 
 not appear to be as grateful as he ought to be for 
 what has been done for him, apparently taking it 
 for granted that what has been done for him is no 
 more than what was due him. He is lacking in 
 the spirit of public enterprise, and in the apprecia- 
 tion of the importance and necessity of improving 
 his country. He is seemingly too selfish and de- 
 pendent. He acquires wealth with evidently no 
 other end in view than the gratification of self. 
 He is evidently impervious to the dictum, Pro 
 bono publico. His sole ambition is to gain wealth 
 for his personal benefit. He might be as rich as 
 

 
 
 i 
 
.ArS 
 
 DWALLA WOMAN. AN AMBRIZ WOMAN. 
 
 (UNCIVILIZED). (SEMI-CIVILIZED.) 
 
Tke African in Africa. 
 
 77 
 
 Croesus, and yet would not be impressed with the 
 feeling that it was his duty to spend any portion 
 of his wealth for public improvements. He looks 
 to the government to supply all public needs. In 
 this particular he is justly liable to censure and 
 blame. He complains bitterly of the encroach- 
 ment of the European upon his ancient rights and 
 privileges; still there is no part of his country but 
 what would be a wilderness were it not for Euro- 
 pean capital and energy. 
 
 The civilized African in the British Colonies 
 serves in many important capacities, and Great 
 Britain has certainly striven to aid him along the 
 highway of the most advanced civilization. In 
 these colonies the African is lacking neither in 
 wealth nor intelligence to make many desirable 
 improvements in his country — improvements that 
 would not only be a source of blessing, but of pe- 
 cuniary benefit. I would kindly but firmly re- 
 mind the intelligent African that those who de- 
 velop his country will become its owners and 
 rulers. 
 
 The civilized African is highly censurable for 
 his lack of sympathy for the bushman, or raw na- 
 tive. The attitude which the former assumes 
 toward the latter is most reprehensible. The first 
 has separated himself from the second by a wide 
 and impassable gulf. The lordly spirit which is 
 manifested by the European toward the intelligent 
 native, he in turn manifests toward the bushman, 
 even though they should perchance be brothers. 
 
78 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 The query, “Am I my brother’s keeper?” has, 
 seemingly, never entered his mind. Intensely and 
 unpardonably selfish, he cares not who sinks, so he 
 swims. “You go to bush,” is a favorite expres- 
 sion of his when he wants to express contempt for 
 liis less enlightened brother. In all my observa- 
 tions, nothing caused me greater pain than the 
 utter lack of sympathy between the civilized Afri- 
 can and his uncivilized fellow-countryman. 
 
 The condition of the uncivilized African chal- 
 lenges my most charitable consideration. He is 
 ground between the upper and nether millstone — 
 the greed and rapacity of the European, and the 
 greed and oppression of his civilized countryman 
 and brother. His needy condition, therefore, not 
 only as respects his lack of clothing, but as respects 
 his want of the ordinary comforts of life, is not to 
 be wondered at. The uncivilized African is of a 
 kindly and tractable disposition, and has far less 
 vices than his civilized kinsman. However, this 
 should not necessarily detract from the blessings 
 of civilization, as there is no Eden without its 
 serpent, and no path without its thorns. 
 
 Until certain conditions are radically changed, it 
 is not possible for either the civilized or uncivilized 
 African to gather much strength. They are di- 
 vided up into tribes and fragments of tribes almost 
 without number. Their distrust of each other is 
 unlimited, and has been the source of their inter- 
 tribal wars from time immemorial. They are 
 wholly lacking in the strength attendant upon 
 
A MANDANILE BRIDE.— Side View- a MANDANILE BRIDE. — Front View. 
 
The African in Africa. 
 
 81 
 
 mutual confidence. In this respect they greatly 
 resemble the North American Indian. These 
 drawbacks, so long- as they exist, preclude the pos- 
 sibility of the development of an African empire, 
 of Africans, by Africans, and for Africans. I had 
 fondly hoped to have discovered different condi- 
 tions. 
 
 Outside of the sphere of British influence the 
 picture of native life and environments in Africa 
 is very gloomy. The French and Portuguese, who 
 have large possessions in Southwest Africa, have 
 done hut little to advance the natives in the scale 
 of civilization. From Fernando Po to St. Paul 
 de Loanda, a distance of 1,879 miles, the darkness 
 of the “ Dark Continent” is distinctively visible as 
 a painful reality. Intense, though, as is the dark- 
 ness it is here and there relieved by faint rays of 
 light. 
 
 The tractability of the disposition of the African 
 is greatly in his favor, and in this particular he is 
 wholly unlike the North American Indian. The 
 latter are retaliative and revengeful; ever lurking 
 in the path of the white man to snatch his scalp. 
 He is a most obstinate foe to the advancement of 
 civilization, and invites his destruction by main- 
 taining a hostile attitude toward the white man, 
 and by refusing the advances of his proffered 
 friendship. The disposition of the African is 
 entirely different. While he looks with disfavor 
 upon the encroachment of the European, still he 
 has the good sense to realize that he cannot hope, 
 6 
 
Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 with no other weapons than the spear, bow and 
 arrow, to successfully resist those who have Pea- 
 body rifles, Maxim guns, and thundering cannon. 
 He, therefore, quietly folds his hands and smil- 
 ingly looks into the face of the invading forces 
 and says: “ Well, you be tit to come. Give dash. 
 We be friends.” The effect of this submissive 
 attitude is to largely disarm the European of evil 
 intent, and to provoke his sympathy rather than 
 his hatred. Thus the uncivilized African stands 
 to-day mutely inquiring of the European, “ What 
 are you going to do with me?” 
 
 Of the civilized African, Sir Francis Fleming, K. 
 C. M. G., ex-Governor of Sierra Leone, said on 
 one occasion to the Committee of the African 
 Trade Section of the Chamber of Commerce of 
 Liverpool : 
 
 There are some natives of the Colony who can well conduct 
 their own affairs. There are some natives of the Colony who 
 have ability, education ; who have talents, in my mind, equal 
 to any talents and ability that can be found in our mother 
 country. 
 
 Hon. H. H. Johnson, C. B. F. R. G. S., and late 
 Consul to the Oil Rivers, in an address to the Liv- 
 erpool Chamber of Commerce, October 21, 1890, 
 among other things said: 
 
 The Negro seems to require the intervention of some supe- 
 rior race before he can be roused to any definite advance from 
 the low stage of human development in w r hich he has content- 
 edly remained for many thousand years. But, w 7 hen once he 
 does come in contact with civilization, he accepts it with extra- 
 ordinary readiness, and surpasses all other low-grade varieties 
 

 
 
 
JIBUTI MEN— UPPER CONGO. 
 (uncivilized.) 
 
 BATTA PEOPLE. 
 
 (UNCIVILIZED.) 
 
The African in Africa. 
 
 85 
 
 of man in the facility with which in one generation, in the one 
 individual, he can skip two or three thousand years and trans- 
 form himself from a naked, brutish savage, into a shorthand 
 clerk, telegraph operator, skilled photographer, a steam en- 
 gineer, a first-class cook, or an irreproachable butler. 
 
CHAPTER \J. 
 
 Missionary Enterprises. 
 
 I T is not my purpose to enter into the history of 
 Missionary Enterprises on the West and South- 
 west Coast of Africa, but rather to note the im- 
 pressions which the result of their operations made 
 upon my mind. The oldest Missionary Society on 
 the West Coast is the Church Missionary Society 
 of Great Britain, which sent two missionaries, in 
 1804, to the Susu Tribe on the river Pongas. In 
 1816 the Society's efforts were concentrated upon 
 the Colony in Sierra Leone. A number of Euro- 
 pean Missionary Societies have established agencies 
 at different times and at different places along the 
 West and Southwest Coast. American Mission- 
 aries have labored at points on the Southwest 
 Coast, chiefly under the auspices of the Presby- 
 terian Board of Missions. American Missionaries 
 have also labored in Liberia, and are still laboring 
 there. 
 
 I do not wish to appear skeptical, but I must 
 confess that, from observations made, the efforts 
 of Missionary Enterprises on the West and South- 
 west Coast of Africa have proved exceedingly bar- 
 ren of satisfactory results. Vast sums of money 
 have been expended and valuable lives sacrificed. 
 The contents of this chapter consist largely of 
 ( 86 ) 
 
FETICHES AND WORSHIPPER. A JUJU OR MEDICINE MAN. 
 
Missionary Enterprises. 
 
 89 
 
 the statement of opinions, based upon personal 
 observations and years of diligent study of the sit- 
 uation. The most sanguine writers on the results 
 of Missionary Enterprises in those parts of Africa 
 which I visited have given us but little encourage- 
 ment as to tbe results obtained. 
 
 It is evident that the great majority of mission- 
 aries who have labored in African fields have had 
 more zeal than practical knowledge. Any person 
 professing faith in Christ has seemingly been re- 
 garded as sufficiently well fitted for missionary 
 work in Africa. Many persons who have gained 
 experience merely as colporteurs, tract distributers, 
 prayer-meeting leaders, or missionaries to the out- 
 casts of civilized communities, have been sent to 
 Africa to instruct and evangelize the heathen, 
 many of whom have more natural shrewdness 
 than their teachers have acquired ability. It is a 
 mistake to suppose that an uncivilized person is 
 necessarily an ignoramus, and that all the so-called 
 heathen countries are overcast with a pall of deep 
 and impenetrable gloom. As I understand it, tbe 
 majority of missionaries, who have gone into 
 heathen lands, have made the mistake of trying to 
 Christianize the people before civilizing them. 
 This, at least, in my opinion, is especially true in 
 regard to Africa. In the discussion of this subject 
 I propose to deal not with theories, glowing with 
 enthusiasm and sentiment, but with frozen facts. 
 Every missionary who has labored on the West 
 and Southwest Coast of Africa must admit that 
 
90 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 the two chief drawbacks to his success are to be 
 found in the power of the chiefs and medicine 
 men, and the indolence of the people. Civiliza- 
 tion, and consequently the Christian Religion, can 
 only advance in proportion as the power of the 
 chiefs and medicine men is destroyed. The rule 
 of the chiefs is despotic, while the influence of the 
 medicine men is all-powerful. The latter, in many 
 respects, really control and influence the former. 
 In all ages the influence of the priesthood over 
 the people has apparently been absolute, which 
 tends to create slavish fear rather than liberty of 
 thought and independence of action. Numbers of 
 African youth, who have been carried to civilized 
 centers and educated in colleges and universities, 
 on returning to their native country and tribes, 
 have doffed the habiliments of civilization and dis- 
 carded the customs of civilized society to resume 
 the habit and customs of their savage kinsmen. 
 This procedure may appear strange to those who 
 are unacquainted with the life of native Africans. 
 It, however, is not the result of their own choice; 
 it is prompted by the dread and fear of the Juju, 
 or medicine man. The educated African youth, 
 so soon as he returns to his home and tribe, be- 
 comes an object of suspicion, envy, and hatred to 
 the medicine men, who in turn make it their busi- 
 ness to prejudice the king, or chief, against him, 
 in which they are generally successful. There is 
 no escape for the educated African youth from the 
 ban of suspicion under which he is thus placed, 
 
Missionary Enterprises. 
 
 91 
 
 except to discard the ways of civilization, bury his 
 talents of acquired ability, and return to savage 
 life common to the bushman. This he must either 
 do or suffer banishment, if not death. So long as 
 he maintains the ways of civilization, whatever 
 misfortunes may befall his people will be attributed 
 to him. It will be charged that he has been be- 
 witched by the white man for the purpose of in- 
 juring his own people. To insure the safety of the 
 educated African, and to make it possible for him 
 to exert a civilizing influence among his people, 
 the power of the chiefs and medicine men must be 
 destroyed. Now, this cannot be done by the mis- 
 sionary with no other weapon than the preaching 
 of the Gospel. Under the circumstances, moral 
 and religious influences alone cannot accomplish 
 the desired result. The Gospel is doubtless the 
 power of God unto salvation ; but this is true only 
 where the human mind has been prepared to re- 
 ceive and germinate the seed-grain of divine truth. 
 But in itself, and of itself, it has not destroyed, and 
 never will destroy, the power of the chiefs and the 
 medicine men in Africa, and overturn the ancient 
 rites and customs of the people. The pathway for 
 the success of the Gospel must be blazoned out by 
 the power of organized government, which is the 
 only force that can overturn the power of the 
 chiefs and medicine men. Hence, the desirability 
 of the rapid extension of the jurisdiction of or- 
 ganized government on the continent of Africa. 
 Wherever organized government is wanting, the 
 
92 
 
 Glimpses of Af rica. 
 
 efforts of missionaries are powerless and vain. I 
 am aware that I am trespassing upon the ground 
 of strict orthodoxy, whose chief exponents see only 
 the condition and difficulties of missionary work 
 in heathen lands from afar. I am also aware that 
 some missionaries will answer back that the influ- 
 ence of organized government is degrading rather 
 than elevating 1 . This class will also assert the same 
 of the extension of commerce. Of these, however, 
 it may be truly said that they have more zeal than 
 wisdom. 
 
 There is no intention here to reflect upon the 
 intelligence of the missionaries in Africa; but if 
 one should seek to obtain satisfactory information 
 in regard to almost any general subject, his efforts 
 would avail him little, if directed to the average 
 missionary in that land. Knowledge is not the foe 
 of the Christian Religion, but its handmaiden. 
 The Christian Religion has its place and its work 
 in solving the problem of human development and 
 human destiny, which is equally true of civilization. 
 Af no place along the West and Southwest Coast of 
 Africa which I visited is there to be found a chapel 
 of even modest structure, or a church edifice with 
 a spire, or a cathedral, outside of communities 
 where organized government exists. This ought 
 to be accepted as conclusive proof that organized 
 government is helpful to the success of religious 
 enterprises rather than a drawback. I am, there- 
 fore, an uncompromising advocate of the extension 
 of organized government in all parts of Africa. 
 
KROBOE PEOPLE PREPARING FOOD. A CABENDA GIRL. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Missionary Enterprises. 
 
 95 
 
 Reference has been made to the indolence of the 
 people as one of the barriers to the success of mis- 
 sionary projects. In my opinion, an idle hand has 
 never awakened in the human mind a noble 
 thought; and if “An idle brain is the devil’s work- 
 shop,” it would seem that an idle hand is the key 
 which unlocks it. Charity suggests the belief that 
 the African is not wantonly indolent, though he 
 seems to be. But let it be remembered that the 
 munificence of Nature, in relieving him to a great 
 extent of the necessity of work to sustain life, ap- 
 pears to largely indulge and approve his idleness. 
 
 Howhere else on the habitable globe has Nature 
 bestowed her gifts with a more lavish hand than 
 upon the Continent of Africa. Surely it is a land 
 where one can reap without sowing, and gather 
 without scattering abroad. It is well known that 
 the European speedily loses both physical and 
 mental vitality in tropical climates — that he soon 
 experiences a disposition toward indolence. How- 
 ever, this observation is not made in extenuation 
 of the indolence of the African. He can work if 
 he will. Thus far the efforts of the missionaries 
 have been mainly directed toward trying to pound 
 the Gospel into the mind of the untutored native, 
 and to persude him to consent to be baptized, ap- 
 parently regarding this as the sum total of their 
 mission. To simply win the uncivilized African 
 over to a belief in the faith of the Christian Re- 
 ligion, seems to be the Ultima Thule of the efforts 
 of the average missionary. 
 
96 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 In order to understand how futile are all efforts 
 to Christianize the African without the aid of civ- 
 ilizing forces, and to instruct him in matters of 
 religious faith before teaching him the necessity 
 and value of labor, let us note the complete failure 
 of the Roman Catholic Church to make substantial 
 converts to the Christian Religion in the Kingdom 
 of Congo, from a time that may he said to be co- 
 eval with the discovery of that region. 
 
 The Kingdom of Congo, as also the great river 
 of the same name, which by the natives of the 
 country is called “Zaire,” was discovered by the 
 Portuguese about the year 1485. It was not a new 
 or isolated discovery, but an extension of those 
 which had been made some years before higher up 
 the coast. 
 
 A part of the Kingdom of Congo lies on the 
 north side of the river, while the other part ex- 
 tends to the Portuguese province of Angola. At 
 the time of its greatest prosperity, which was prob- 
 ably the early part of the seventeenth century, it is 
 said to have contained about 40,000 inhabitants. 
 
 For many years a bishop and his chapter, a col- 
 lege of Jesuits, and a monastery of Capuchins, 
 were supported in San Salvador, which at that 
 time v r as the capital of the whole Congo Kingdom, 
 at the expense of the Portuguese government. 
 Besides the cathedral, of large dimensions, there 
 were ten smaller churches, to which the ordinary 
 names St. John, St. James, St. Michael, St. An- 
 thony, etc., were given, all of which contributed 
 
Mission ary Enterprises. 
 
 97 
 
 materially to beautifying this otherwise barbaric 
 city. It was accessible to the whites by way of the 
 river; but the more common route was through 
 the province of Bamba to St. Paul cle Loanda. 
 
 On a third voyage, Diego Cam, the discoverer of 
 the Zaire or Congo River, took with him twelve 
 missionaries of the Franciscan Order, who are sup- 
 posed to be the founders of the Christian Religion 
 in the Kingdom of Congo. The Count of Sogno, 
 and the King of Congo, his nephew, were among 
 the first converts to Christianity. For a time the 
 hitter showed great zeal in promoting the new 
 religion among his subjects ; but as soon as he 
 found that he was required to give up the multi- 
 tude of wives who surrounded him, and be married 
 to a single wife, he renounced it, and returned to 
 the religion of his fathers. His son and successor, 
 Don Alphonso I., felt no such difficulty. lie not 
 only embraced Christianity himself, but did all he 
 could to promote its interest throughout his realm. 
 His brother, Pasanquitama, was a man of a very 
 different spirit, and finding there was quite a pop- 
 ular dislike to the new religion, availed himself of 
 it in order to raise a rebellion against bis brother. 
 The armies of the two brothers bad scarcely en- 
 gaged in battle when St. James was distinctly seen 
 fighting on the side of the king, and victory, of 
 course, soon turned in his favor. Pasanquitama 
 was not only beaten, but was made a prisoner. 
 He refused to ransom his life by embracing Chris- 
 tianity, and was accordingly executed. It fared 
 7 
 
98 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 differently with his general, who was pardoned on 
 the condition of becoming a Christian, but had to 
 do penance in the way of bringing water for all 
 who were baptized in the capital. Soon after this 
 signal victory in behalf of Christianity, a large re- 
 inforcement of missionaries was sent out by the 
 Society de Propaganda Fide , most of whom were 
 from the Italian states, and in the course of ten or 
 twenty years the entire population of Congo was 
 gathered into the pale of the Roman Catholic 
 Church. 
 
 About the middle of the sixteenth century, how- 
 ever, the labors of the missionaries met with a 
 serious interruption in consequence of an invasion 
 of the country by hordes of the warlike Giaghi. 
 The Congolese army, though large and well dis- 
 ciplined, was scattered like chaff’ before these de- 
 termined invaders. San Salvador was burned to 
 the ground, and the king and his people had to 
 betake themselves to the “Isle of Horses” on the 
 Zaire for safety. 
 
 The missionaries, who it is supposed retired to 
 Angola during this strife, returned to their labors, 
 and having been reinforced by new recruits from 
 Europe, not only re-established the Catholic wor- 
 ship in all the provinces of Congo, but extended 
 their labors into neighboring districts over which 
 the King of Congo had no, jurisdiction. They 
 crossed the Zaire, and were nearly as successful in 
 making converts in Cabenda and Loango as they 
 had been in Congo. Though hostilities were sus- 
 
D WALLA PEOPLE-INTERIOR OF CAMEROONS. 
 
Missionary Enterprises. 
 
 101 
 
 pended between the countries of Sogno and Congo, 
 the former was never afterward united to the crown 
 of the latter. The part which the Portuguese had 
 taken at the commencement of these troubles made 
 them ever afterward intolerably odious to the Sog- 
 noese. The principal Sognoese official indulged 
 resentment by persecuting the missionaries in his 
 country. It was not long, however, according to 
 the statements of the missionaries, before this deed 
 of violence recoiled with redoubled force upon the 
 chief official's own head. 
 
 About the same time, Don Alvaro II. sent to 
 Pope Urban VIII. for a new recruit of mission- 
 aries. In compliance with this request twelve 
 Capuchins were sent, but having been detained on 
 account of the war with Spain, they did not reach 
 Congo until after the king’s death. A part of this 
 company remained with the chief official of Sogno, 
 and the others found their way to San Salvador, 
 where they were kindly received by Don Garcia 
 II., the son and successor of Don Alvaro. The 
 reign of Don Garcia was short, and he was succeeded 
 by Don Antonio I., who, by his unparalleled wick- 
 edness and brutality, not only threw his whole 
 kingdom into disorder and anarchy, but nearly 
 obliterated every trace of Christianity from the 
 land. He treated the missionaries with so much 
 indignity that they were compelled to flj T from his 
 realm. In a subsequent conflict with the Portu- 
 guese of Angola, Don Antonio was killed, and his 
 crown was taken to St. Paul de Loanda, which led 
 
102 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 to the dissolution of the Sogno government. Some 
 of the missionaries, however, returned to the Sogno 
 country, and continued their labors in some parts 
 of it. During the earlier part of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury their authority in Sogno was nearly as great 
 as it had ever been — so much so that English ves- 
 sels could not buy slaves in the port of Sony with- 
 out first conciliating their good will. 
 
 Subsequently they abandoned the country alto- 
 gether ; and not only all of their former civiliza- 
 tion, but almost every trace of Christianity disap- 
 peared, and the whole country fell back into the 
 deepest ignorance and heathenism, and into greater 
 wickedness and poverty than had ever been expe- 
 rienced, even before its discovery. 
 
 Captain Tuckey, who was sent by the English 
 government in 1816 to explore the Congo River, 
 states that three years previously some missionaries 
 had been murdered in Sogno, and that a Portuguese 
 pinnace had been cut off by the natives at the same 
 time. During his sojourn in the country he found 
 no traces of Catholicism, except a few crucitixes 
 and relics strangely mixed up with the charms and 
 fetiches of the country, which were no doubt dis- 
 tributed by Portuguese slave traders who still fre- 
 quented the river. At the present time not even 
 these fragments of Romanism can be found, except 
 it be the crucifixes and pictures which have been 
 distributed by the Portuguese and Spanish ex-slave 
 traders. So far as civilization, order, and industry 
 are concerned, we scarcely noted any community 
 
Missionary En terprises. 
 
 ioa 
 
 on the whole coast of Africa that will not compare 
 to advantage with the poor, miserable, and degrad- 
 ed inhabitants to be found along the banks of the 
 Lower Congo at the present time. It is not easy 
 to say how much civilization there was in the Con- 
 go in the days of its greatest prosperity. The state- 
 ments of the missionaries, upon which we are in a 
 great measure dependent for all the information we 
 can get, are so deeply tinged with the marvelous, 
 and are so grossly exaggerated withal, that they 
 cannot be received without great abatement. They 
 use language that would indicate great commercial 
 prosperity, and an amount of civilization of no or- 
 dinary grade for that age of the world. 
 
 Father Carli states that when he arrived in Bom- 
 ba (now Boma), about the year 1G67, the great 
 Duke had just disbanded an army of 150,000, with 
 which he had in vain tried to effect the subjugation 
 of the Count of Sogno. Professor Bitter, who had 
 advantages for examining all that was written by 
 the missionaries in relation to the Kingdom of Con- 
 go, states upon their authority that the great Duke 
 of Bomba could at any time raise, in his own prov- 
 ince alone, 400,000 troops. The statement is not 
 only made, but indorsed by several of the most in- 
 telligent and respectable missionaries, that one of 
 the kings of Congo, who was no doubt Antonio I., 
 had raised an army of 900,000. It will be well, 
 though, for the modern reader of these statements 
 to receive them with a large grain of allowance. 
 
 It was a great surprise to me to note that the na- 
 
104 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 tives in the Lower Congo country, and in the Por- 
 tuguese province of Angola, are so far removed 
 Irom a state of civilization. This, though, is only 
 one of the many proofs that something else is nec- 
 essary to secure the civilization of a heathen people 
 than merely to expound the Gospel. 
 
 The idea that the preaching of the Gospel is suf- 
 ficientto civilize a heathen people is natural enough, 
 but is wholly untenable. It implies the belief that 
 the only hindrance to the conversion of the heathen 
 to Christianity is ignorance, whereas the greatest 
 obstacle consists in indolence, or an aversion to the 
 exercise of those energies which alone can secure 
 the prosperity of any people. It is useless to look 
 for any upward tendencies on the part of the mem- 
 bers of a heathen community until their industrial 
 and intellectual faculties are awakened. 
 
 It is impossible to say how many missionaries were 
 sent at different times to the Congo country. Fa- 
 ther Merolla mentions incidentally at least one hun- 
 dred. The number of churches and other places of 
 public worship were very considerable. It is prob- 
 able that in the entire kingdom there were not less 
 than one hundred consecrated churches, and per- 
 haps two or three times as many other places where 
 priests were in the habit of performing baptism and 
 celebrating the mass. There were no acts of pen- 
 ance or humiliation inflicted upon the sovereigns 
 of Europe, when the Church of Rome was at the 
 zenith of her power, that these missionaries had 
 not the satisfaction of seeing- the humbler chiefs of 
 
CATHOLIC CHURCH AND SCHOOL, FERNANDO PO. 
 
 CATHOLIC SCHOOL, ELOBY ISLAND. 
 
Mission a ry Enterprises. 
 
 107 
 
 Congo subjected to. One can readily imagine with 
 what awe it must have struck the simple-minded 
 Africans to see the Count of Sogno, the most pow- 
 erful chief of the kingdom, prostrated at the church 
 door, clothed in sackcloth, with a crown of thorns 
 on his head, a crucifix in his hand, a rope about his 
 neck, while his courtiers were looking on, clothed 
 in their most brilliant robes. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Church was not established 
 in Congo in a hasty and superficial manner. It was 
 a work at which successive bands of missionaries 
 labored with untiring assiduity for two centuries. 
 Among them were some of the most learned and 
 able men that Rome ever sent to the pagan world. 
 It was a cause, too, that always lay near the heart 
 of the King of Portugal, when that nation was at 
 the climax of power and wealth. The royal sword 
 was ever ready to be unsheathed for its defense, 
 and her treasures were poured out for its support 
 without stint. 
 
 But what has become of this church, with all its 
 resources and power? Where are the results of 
 this religious conquest that cost so much, and of 
 which Rome had boasted in such unmeasured terms 
 of exultation ? To answer these questions impar- 
 tially, the friends of Rome must acknowledge that 
 they constructed a religious edifice in the heart of 
 this pagan empire that could not stand alone by its 
 own strength ; for as soon as the hand which reared 
 and for a time upheld it was withdrawn it fell to 
 pieces. Kay, more! To acknowledge the whole 
 
108 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 truth, not only has this great ecclesiastical temple 
 crumbled to the dust, but it has left the unfortunate 
 inhabitants of that country in as deep ignorance 
 and superstition, and perhaps in greater poverty 
 and degradation, than they would have been if Ho- 
 man Catholicism had never been proclaimed among 
 them. 
 
 Among the causes to which the downfall of Ro- 
 manism in Congo have been ascribed are the de- 
 cline of the Portuguese power and the insalubrity 
 of the climate. It is probable, however, that the 
 main cause which contributed to the extinction of 
 the Roman Catholic Church in Congo was the 
 comfort which it always accorded to the foreign 
 slave trade. The missionaries not only tolerated 
 the slave trade, but participated in it. 
 
 By an arrangement with the civil authorities, all 
 persons convicted of celebrating the rites of the an- 
 cient religion of the natives were delivered up to 
 the missionaries, and by them sold to the first slave 
 vessel which entered the river. Perhaps it is but 
 just to make allowance for the age in which these 
 missionaries lived, and it is essential to remember 
 that the whole Christian world — Protestant as well 
 as Papal — countenanced, either directly or indirect- 
 ly, the African slave trade. 
 
 The Catholic missionaries were most zealous in 
 persuading the natives to consent to be baptized. 
 One missionary is reported to have baptized 2,700 in 
 two years ; another, to have baptized 5,000 children 
 in a few days ; and another, to have baptized 12,000 
 
Missionary Enter pr iscs. 
 
 109 
 
 adults in less than a year. Father Merolla states 
 that he had baptized as many us 272 in one day, 
 and in less than live years had baptized more than 
 13,000. It is reported that one missionary had 
 baptized 100,000 during a residence of twenty 
 years. 
 
 Among the difficulties which the missionaries in 
 earlier times had to encounter, and which impede the 
 progress of the missionaries of the present, are cer- 
 tain customs — namely, the binding around the body 
 of every new-born infant a cord of some kind, to 
 which are fastened the bones and teeth of certain 
 wild animals, which are regarded as a sort of charm 
 to preserve the health and life of the child; the 
 handing over of every new-born infant to a native 
 priest or medicine man to tell its fortune; the in- 
 terdicting to every person at their birth some arti- 
 cle of food which they are not through life, upon 
 any consideration, to put in their mouth ; the 
 guarding of their fruit trees and patches of grain 
 with fetiches, which are supposed to possess the 
 power of banishing all transgressors. The uncivil- 
 ized African evidently feels that in energy of char- 
 acter, in scope of understanding, in the exercise 
 of mechanical skill, and in the practice of all the 
 useful arts of life, he is hopelessly distanced by the 
 European. But, whenever the precincts of the un- 
 known and mysterious, the realms where the im- 
 agination alone can travel, are entered there is no 
 place where he feels more at borne; and the end- 
 less variety of fantastic images which he brings 
 
110 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 forth from these mysterious regions show that he 
 is a dreamer, rather than a practical thinker and 
 actor. How to overcome this condition so as to 
 bring him to a proper understanding and appreci- 
 ation of the inspiration, thought, life, and power 
 of the Gospel, is the question which most seriously 
 confronts all missionaries now laboring in the 
 “ Dark Continent.” The seed, which has been sown 
 in earnest faith, and ofttimes in weeping, has not 
 thus far produced such an abundant harvest as was 
 expected. 
 
 It may be well and truly said that the Catholics, 
 though “all things unto all men,” even in “ Darkest 
 Africa,” are attaining most valuable and practical 
 results in their efforts to civilize the raw native. 
 They have entirely ignored the methods of the 
 missionaries of their church, as practiced by them 
 in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries ; and 
 have learned to strike at the root of the tree, if 
 they would gain permanent results in the civiliza- 
 tion and Christianization of these uncivilized peo- 
 ple. At a number of points along the Southwest 
 Coast they have been quite successful in establish- 
 ing “Missionary Farms,” which have also attached 
 to them mechanical departments, where the native 
 youth of both sexes are taught the elements of 
 religion. Besides religious training, the males are 
 taught agricultural pursuits and mechanical arts — 
 such as carpentry, tailoring, stone masonry, brick- 
 laying, etc. I visited one of these Farms at Banda- 
 na, in the Portuguese province of Cabenda, for the 
 
LAGOS MOHAMMEDAN. 
 
Missiona i y Enter prises. 
 
 113 
 
 purpose of making personal observations, and I 
 was delighted with the magnificence and extent of 
 the plant, and the methods in vogue for the secular 
 and religious instruction of the youth. The cam- 
 pus, which encloses the buildings devoted to instruc- 
 ton in letters, agriculture, mechanism, and religion, 
 is beautified with broad avenues, lined on either 
 side by cultivated native flowers, and enriched with 
 a profusion of native fruits. All the buildings, in- 
 cluding the chapel, are well constructed and very 
 inviting in appearance, and for beauty and attract- 
 iveness were certainly a revelation to me. At the 
 time I visited this Mission there were 270 boys 
 under the instruction of 7 Brothers, and 110 girls 
 under the instruction of 7 Sisters. It is in charge 
 of Portuguese Catholics. Here the males and fe- 
 males are entirely separated from each other. The 
 ofiice of the Father Superior is connected with all 
 the buildings on the campus by electric bells. 
 There is an abundance of good spring water, which 
 is distributed to the several buildings by the force 
 of a windwill, which was designed by the Brothers, 
 and constructed by them, with the aid of the boys. 
 I was most cordially received by the Father Supe- 
 rior, who was untiring in bis efforts to acquaint me 
 with their methods, and to demonstrate the good 
 results which the institution was achieving. 
 
 The boys and girls, when once they enter this 
 Mission, are never allowed to return to the “bush,” 
 but are continually kept under the light of civiliz- 
 ing influences. They are brought under rational 
 8 
 
114 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 discipline when of very tender years, with the hope 
 that all the recollections of their primitive life may 
 become wholly effaced, and that they may early 
 imbibe the blessings of civilization. The object of 
 those in charge is to transplant them from a world 
 of heathenism to a world of enlightenment. It is 
 also their hope that these boys and girls, when they 
 shall have passed through the process of training 
 amid these civilizing and Christianizing surround- 
 ings, and shall have reached the age of maturity, will 
 intermarry, and thus lay the foundation of civilized 
 homes, hallowed by the blessings of Christian influ- 
 ences. No other methods or aims than those just 
 described can, in my opinion, possibly produce per- 
 manent and beneficial results among the uncivilized 
 peoples of Africa. 
 
 Our ship, which remained at Landana loading 
 cargo for nearly two days, was abundantly sup- 
 plied with fruits and vegetables from the Mission. 
 
 I have been frequently asked if missions can be 
 made self-supporting in Africa. My answer has 
 been and is that such can be accomplished only 
 after the outlay of a certain amount of money and 
 the lapse of a certain length of time. Missions can- 
 not be made self-supporting at once, and the man 
 who claims that they can be is doubtless possessed 
 of a disordered brain. The human system, nur- 
 tured by the favorable influences of the temperate 
 region, when it enters the tropics requires the very 
 best of nourishing and stimulating support, and 
 even then rapidly declines in vigor. 
 
M issionary E-n ter prises. 
 
 115 
 
 Wliat Africa needs is the Gospel of the value of 
 word and how to work — an idea which took hold 
 upon the minds of some of the first missionaries to 
 West Africa, as will be seen from the following ex- 
 tracts from Bishop Ingham’s book, “ Sierra Leone 
 After a Hundred Years ” : 
 
 In the year 1815 the Church Missionary Society of Great 
 Britain erected a Christian institute on Leicester Mountain, 
 which was occupied in 1816. An allotment of 1,100 acres had 
 been granted to the Society. There wete at that time about 350 
 children of both sexes enjoying the advantages of the excellent 
 asylum. The boys were, for the most part, instructed in differ- 
 ent trades — as carpenters, sawyers, masons, and shingle-makers ; 
 and the girls in such occupations as were suited to their sex and 
 condition. The general principle acted upon was that they 
 should be employed “ half the day in work and half the day at 
 school.” 
 
 The industrial feature was subsequently dropped. 
 The folly of this action is referred to by Bishop 
 Ingham, when he says : 
 
 We counsel a return to the methods of instruction on Leices- 
 ter Mountain, and we welcome some recent resolutions of the 
 Society in this particular direction. 
 
 Experience is daily proving to those who have eyes to see 
 that the very peculiar past history of this people demands spe- 
 cial consideration on the part of those who aspire to educate 
 them. Roman Catholics seem to be far ahead of us in obtain- 
 ing practical results. How far they fail in developing the minds 
 and consciences of the African we will not here discuss, but 
 their systems of technical training are surely worthy of imita- 
 tion. 
 
 The very fact that there is so little originality, and such a 
 tendency to indolence and want of thrift ; the very fact that the 
 country around Sierra Leone, and even the greater part of the 
 Colony itself, is in just as wild and undeveloped a condition as 
 
116 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 when Clarkson landed his Nova Scotian settlers — these are 
 plain indications that there must be something defective in the 
 training which has had so one-sided an effect. 
 
 These statements from one who has spent ten 
 years in active religious work among the natives 
 on the West Coast of Africa, simply seem to con- 
 firm me in the opinion that permanent practical 
 results need not he expected as the outcome of mis- 
 sionary effort among the uncivilized Africans un- 
 til there is a general acknowledgment of the fact 
 that the desideratum is to he found in the accom- 
 plishment of teaching the hand to work, the mind 
 to think, and the heart to love — these three, one 
 and inseparable ; but let it be always understood 
 that they must progress pari passu. 
 
CHAPTER U I. 
 
 Climatic Conditions. 
 
 HERE is no feature of Africa which has been 
 
 so horribly maligned as its climate. From the 
 time one leaves Liverpool on board a ship bound 
 for Africa it seems to be the delight of the officers 
 and crew to spin the most unfounded yarns with 
 reference to the climate of Africa and its evil effect 
 upon man. Every adjective or expletive that can 
 be used in drawing the picture black and gloomy 
 is employed. Such terms as “ beastly climate,” 
 “difficult climate,” “deadly climate,” etc., and evi- 
 dently used to inspire a nervous fear in the passen- 
 ger who is going out to Africa for the first time, 
 are continually heard. It seems to be the aim of 
 the ship’s officers to land the passengers at their 
 destination with the ghouls of the deadly African 
 fever infesting their minds like so many grim spec- 
 ters. Hot only is this true of the ship’s officers, 
 but it is true of the traders as well. The persistent 
 exaggeration of the evil effects of the climate by 
 the ship’s officers and the traders, who were en 
 route to Southwest Africa, led me to conclude that 
 there was method in it. It is possible that there is 
 an agreement between the agents of the steamship 
 companies and the firms doing business on the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa to try to 
 
 ( 117 ) 
 
118 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 frighten oft - those who may be looking that way, 
 in order to keep the trade in the hands of a few. 
 The exaggerations cannot possibly be conjured up 
 for mere sport. The great bulk of the trade of the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa is controlled 
 by mercantile linns in Liverpool, Hamburg, and 
 Havre. There is an “African Trade Section ” con- 
 nected with the Chamber of Commerce in Liver- 
 pool, which exerts a potent influence in the admin- 
 istration of the affairs in the British Colonies on 
 the West Coast. From personal experience on the 
 British steamships “ Benguela,” “Africa,” and “ Ba- 
 kana,” 1 feel quite justified in expressing the belief 
 that the frightful tales told about Africa are chiefly 
 circulated for the purpose of keeping certain classes 
 of persons away. 
 
 Bishop Ingham, in his book, “Sierra Leone 
 After a Hundred Years,” touches upon the matter 
 under consideration thus : 
 
 Conversations on shipboard do not always tend to brighten 
 anticipation of Western Africa. Old coasters are sometimes 
 tempted to draw the longbow ; but indeed it is clear, from what 
 has been stated in previous chapters, that naked facts have usu- 
 ally been black enough. At Ihe saloon table, for instance, you 
 hear, as we have once heard, a conversation like this: “Do 
 you remember Brown? Well, he came out two voyages ago.” 
 Answer: “Yes.” “All, well, he is dead, poor fellow ! and his 
 wife returned to England, and died as the ship went into Liver- 
 pool.” Presently some one asked us about Jones. “Ah, poor 
 fellow! he had a terrible fever, and got frightened and went 
 home; and they say he will never have his health again.” 
 Next day some one would venture to ask about Robinson. “ Oh, 
 don’t you know ? He went out in this very ship, and only lived 
 
Climatic Conditions. 
 
 119 
 
 six months.” And so on. Sometimes, alas, this kind of con- 
 versation has so worked upon the minds of young men going 
 out for the first time that a nervousness has developed, which 
 is the first step toward another breakdown. We certainly ex- 
 pected to have this African fever as soon as we landed. Facts 
 certainly should not be concealed, but there does seem to be 
 room for more kindly consideration in this matter, and we hope 
 old coasters will come to regard their long ixperience as a tal- 
 ent in trust for the benefit of their fellow-sufferers ; and they 
 ought, in all fairness, not to neglect to state that there are “sav- 
 ing clauses.” 
 
 I certainly should have been greatly confused and 
 in profound ignorance concerning the actual state 
 of the climate during my voyage, had I not provid- 
 ed myself with scientific instruments before start- 
 ing for making meteorological observations, which 
 I used daily at 12 M., beginning September G, the 
 first day out from Liverpool, and ending December 
 24, when we were 163 miles from Liverpool on the re- 
 turn voyage. Before we reached the Canary Islands 
 awnings were spread over the promenade deck re- 
 served for first-class passengers, the deck of the fore- 
 castle (under which the sailors usually sleep during 
 the time the ship is in the tropics), and the bridge, 
 so as to protect the several officers from the direct 
 rays of the sun during their watch. Upon inquiry 
 as to why the awnings were stretched, I was in- 
 formed that it was to prepare against the great 
 heat that we should experience as we approached 
 Grand Canary, and which would continue through- 
 out the voyage. It was stated that a second can- 
 vas would be added as soon as we should leave 
 Grand Canary. When we passed Grand Canary 
 
120 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 the thermometer registered 75° on board the ship 
 at sea, while a stiff breeze was blowing which had 
 a modifying effect on the temperature. As the 
 great heat which was expected while passing Grand 
 Canary did not materialize, I was informed that we 
 should certainly get it while passing Cape Verde. 
 When we reached Cape Verde, however, the ther- 
 mometer showed only 82^°. It was then stated that 
 without fail we should feel the full effects of the trop- 
 ical sun when we reached Sierra Leone. However, 
 when we reached there it was cloudy, with show- 
 ers of rain, and the thermometer stood at 80J°; 
 and after that it did not reach 81° until we entered 
 the Congo River, except at Fernando Po, where it 
 registered 86° on shore in the shade. It was an 
 ideal day, and was marked by a cloudless sky, so 
 that there was nothing to modify the effects of the 
 direct rays of the sun. The fact that I had my 
 own scientific instruments doubtless guarded me 
 against being bored with highly-colored and exag- 
 gerated stories of the “ beastly African climate.” 
 Ido not hesitate to assert that the climate of trop- 
 ical Africa is unfriendly to all persons reared in the 
 temperate regions. It is, however, no more un- 
 friendly than are portions of India. Persons going 
 there as missionaries, traders, or adventurers ought 
 not to be younger than twenty-one nor older than 
 thirty years of age. It is true that some few per- 
 sons have gone there after they were more than thir- 
 ty years of age, and became successfully acclimated. 
 This, however, I would not hold out as an induce- 
 
Climatic Conditions. 
 
 121 
 
 meat to other persons over thirty years of age to 
 venture into the tropical climate, with a view to re- 
 maining there permanently. As a rule, medium- 
 sized, thin men and women succeed best in main- 
 taining their health and vigor in the tropics. It is 
 quite safe to adhere to the principle that short, 
 spare men succeed best, though 1 came in contact 
 with tall, corpulent men who were active, and seem- 
 ingly in fairly good health. However, it is stated 
 by those who have had the best opportunities for 
 making observations that the greatest number of 
 deaths and the greatest amount of ill health have 
 occurred among the portly and the tall. Sobriety 
 of life is an absolute necessity, if one wishes to live 
 long and well in Africa. The safest rule is to 
 abandon the use of all forms of alcoholic stimulants, 
 as a beverage, from the day one lands on African 
 soil. However, no absolute rule can be laid down 
 for interdicting the use of stimulants in case of 
 fever, or in regions where the climate is exceeding- 
 ly depressing. Champagne in small quantities, in 
 the treatment of numbers of persons, has proved to 
 be very beneficial in fevers, as a supporting stimu- 
 lant. It has been asserted and reasserted that no 
 form of alcoholic stimulant should be drunk dur- 
 ing the day — between sunrise and sunset — even 
 though it should be ordered by a physician. The 
 reason assigned is that alcohol taken during the 
 daytime in Africa is simply poison to a person 
 reared in a temperate climate, which often disguises 
 its effects, but a deadly poison all the same ; and 
 
122 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 perhaps more deadly because the pain it inflicts is 
 not readily perceived. My observation leads me to 
 believe that this rule is not universal in its applica- 
 tion. There was a party of six traders on board 
 the steamship “ Benguela,” en route to the South- 
 west Coast of Africa, who drank almost incessant- 
 ly from the time they left Liverpool until they 
 reached their respective placesof destination. Their 
 drinking was so excessive as to at times suggest to 
 me the probability that they had cast-iron stom- 
 achs. It is true that there were but few times when 
 they were “beastly” intoxicated, but they were 
 “full ” all the time. On our homeward voyage I 
 had the opportunity of seeing three of their num- 
 ber. One (a young man), who had entered upon 
 his first term of service, was stricken with the fever 
 within one hour after he left the ship. Another 
 had been sick, but was convalescent, and came 
 aboard the ship to see some of the officers. He 
 had just entered upon his second term of service of 
 three years. The third I saw at Cameroons Town, 
 and he seemingly looked better than when he dis- 
 embarked from the ship about five weeks pre- 
 viously. 
 
 On the homeward voyage we had a number of 
 new passengers, one of whom had served two terms 
 of three years each in the upper Congo, one a sin- 
 gle term of three years in the same region, and at 
 Cabenda a passenger was added to the list who 
 had completed seven years’ service on the South- 
 west Coast. We also brought two civilized natives 
 
Climatic Conditions. 
 
 123 
 
 (young men), one of whom lnid served two terms 
 of three years each in the upper Congo, and the 
 other one term. We also received two additional 
 passengers at Batanga — a trader and a German 
 Catholic missionary en route to Europe. All these 
 parties, without exception, drank regularly some 
 form of alcoholic stimulants. The missionaries 
 confined themselves to wine and beer; the others 
 covered every form of drink that was obtainable. 
 A few of them drank to excess, but the majority 
 were what might be termed moderate drinkers. 
 All the passengers on the homeward voyage had 
 been victims of the African fever, and some who 
 had suffered more than one attack claimed that the 
 use of alcoholic stimulants in some form was a ne- 
 cessity, in order to brace them up against its weak- 
 ening effects. 
 
 I am satisfied that there can he no error in the 
 statement that in the tropics the use of the stronger 
 forms of alcohol — such as whiskey, brandy, rum, 
 gin, etc. — is highly deleterious to the human sys- 
 tem. Its use is not even essential to produce pro- 
 fuse perspiration, which is most desirable in cases 
 of fever. A hot lemonade, made of lime juice when 
 lemons are not procurable (and limes are to be 
 found in abundance on the West and Southwest 
 Coast of Africa), will readily stimulate abundant 
 perspiration. I think, however, that champagne 
 given in small quantities, or claret soda (being a 
 mixture of claret wine and soda water), is very re- 
 freshing and acceptable during the intervals be- 
 
124 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 tween the paroxysms of the fever and during con- 
 valescence. When one’s system is inoculated with 
 the miasma of African swamps — and especially when 
 he is under the influence of African fever — water, 
 to a great extent, becomes insipid and undesirable. 
 Under such circumstances claret wine is mixed with 
 the water to render it palatable. Many use this 
 mixture while in the rivers, because they find that 
 the atmosphere surrounding them is depressing in 
 the extreme. It is so depressing in its effects that 
 many find it difficult to maintain comfort without 
 some stimulant, soda claret seemingly being the 
 preference. During the six days we were in the 
 Congo River nearly everybody aboard the ship ex- 
 perienced more or less a “feverish feeling,” and all 
 were glad when we passed out into the open sea. 
 
 In the river Rio del Ray the atmosphere was so 
 stifling and depressing as to cause serious alarm 
 among some of the passengers. We remained 
 there all night, breathing the miasma from the 
 deep mangrove swamps, which line both sides of 
 the river. But little comfort was experienced by 
 any of the passengers that night, and the most ar- 
 dent advocate of teetotalism would have been 
 tempted to have waived his conscientious scruples, 
 and drank at least a claret soda or a claret lemon- 
 ade. 
 
 I mention these things, which are matters of 
 personal observation, to emphasize the fact that 
 persons going to tropical Africa should be governed 
 by the dictates of reason and common sense, rather 
 
Climatic Conditions. 
 
 125 
 
 than iron-clacl rules laid down by theorists. It may 
 also be found that even in tropical Africa what may 
 be one person’s food may be another person’s poi- 
 son, and vice versa. Moderation and temperance in 
 all things should govern the conduct and habits of 
 individuals, wherever they may be found. 
 
 I am not sure but that indolence has something 
 to do with Europeans succumbing readily to the 
 fever. It seems to be understood that no European 
 goes to the West and Southwest Coast of Africa to 
 work. The natives are to do the work, while the 
 European superintends it. It is evident that ex- 
 cessive exercise is hurtful to the European in trop- 
 ical Africa, and it is just as evident that no exercise 
 or too little exercise is quite as hurtful. A moder- 
 ate amount of physical exertion daily is not only 
 beneficial, but essential. 
 
 ISText. in danger to alcoholic excess is gluttony. 
 Europeans seemingly forget that one of the effects 
 of the torrid zone is to relax every part of the hu- 
 man system, both physical and mental, and that the 
 digestive organs, being relaxed, cannot perform the 
 same amount of work when possessed of that tonic- 
 ity which the temperate zone produces. Then many 
 persons have a craving for fat, oily substances and 
 sweetmeats — an appetite which they insist on indulg- 
 i ng, notwithstanding the fact that fat substances and 
 sweetmeats are the most prolific breeders of bilious 
 fever in a tropical climate. The ordinary living of 
 first-class passengers on an African steamship is tea 
 with biscuit at 6 a. m., breakfast at 8 a. m., lunch at 
 
120 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 1 p. m., tea with biscuit at 5 p. m., and dinner at 7 
 p. m., which in my opinion otters too many tempta- 
 tions to eat, considering the limited means for tak- 
 ing exercise. Most passengers, however, take it 
 all in. In my own case I invariably avoided the 7 
 o’clock dinners, and trained myself to an abstemi- 
 ous mode of living. 
 
 Excesses in immorality are also a source of dan- 
 ger. Strange as it may seem, yet it is nevertheless 
 true that most Europeans on reaching Africa give 
 themselves up to a life of unbridled lust. It is true 
 that those who are mainly connected with the trad- 
 ing places arc young men. Their common sense, 
 however, ought to teach them that the vices of 
 youth are just as destructive in tropical Africa as 
 they are in their own European communities. Un- 
 fortunately many of the young men who go to Af- 
 rica belong to the vicious classes at home, and are 
 related to people who are bankrupt not only in 
 purse and in intelligence, but in morals as well. 
 
 There are no storms or heavy gales along the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa. One may 
 travel day after day in the South Atlantic Ocean, 
 and find its bosom no more agitated than is an in- 
 fant asleep. When storms or hurricanes rage at 
 certain seasons they are of short duration, generally 
 not lasting more than a half hour, and even then 
 they do not rage with that ferocity which is charac- 
 teristic of them in the northern latitudes. The wa- 
 ter of the South Atlantic Ocean is somewhat heav- 
 ier than that of the North Atlantic, which is 
 
Climatic Conditions. 
 
 127 
 
 accounted for by the fact that the sun in the equa- 
 torial regions absorbs a great deal of the fresh wa- 
 ter of the ocean, leaving behind the saline matter. 
 
 In speaking of the climate, Bishop Ingham, in 
 his book, “Sierra Leone After a Hundred Years,” 
 page 306, says : 
 
 Every newcomer to this part of Africa will almost certainly 
 have a spell of African fever, and any imprudence or sudden 
 check of perspiration is likely to bring it on from time to time. 
 But this fever is very simple ana well understood, so long as 
 there are no complications, and the treatment adopted tends to 
 relieve the system much when the attack has passed away. It 
 is a fever that rapidly finds out the weak places in the system. 
 
 And those who will live longest and work best in Africa are 
 not so much the strong and robust and full-blooded, perhaps, 
 as those who, though not altogether as vigorous as might be 
 wished, are yet sound in wind and limb. The des : derata for 
 health in these parts are that people should learn to adapt 
 themselves to the country ; never attempt to do work by spurts ; 
 never overtire or exhaust the frame, and avoid irregularity and 
 insufficiency in taking food. Whatever tends to lower the sys- 
 tem invites the climate to assert its injurious-influences. Steady, 
 quiet work from day to day, regular rest at night, a quiet noon- 
 tide hour for rest and reading or sleep, a little food at frequent 
 intervals, the maintenance, as far as possible, of a quiet mind — 
 these are not only advisable here, as everywhere else, but they 
 would appear to be essential to any long stay in the country. 
 The African climate is blamed for much of which it is not 
 guilty. 
 
 It is popularly said, and said with too much truth, that “ the 
 climate is carried about in a black bottle ; ” for it cannot be. de- 
 nied that excessive drinking has slain, and continues to slay, 
 many Europeans along this coast. Sad instances are constantly 
 coming to light which go to prove how destructive this baneful 
 habit is. This is no country for reformed drunkards who have 
 suddenly become total abstainers, but the climate demands 
 great moderation in all things. 
 
128 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Much excellent work can he done by European 
 men and women in Africa. They must recruit 
 their energies, however, in their own country from 
 time to time, as it is certainly true that Euro- 
 peans lose much vigor of body and energy in trop- 
 ical Africa. 
 
 The diseases of the West and Southwest Coast of 
 Africa — and in fact all Africa — are few and simple, 
 and may be summed up under three heads : malaria, 
 dysentery, and smallpox. Europeans are seemingly 
 not subject to the latter. There is only one means by 
 which the presence of malaria can either be modified 
 or removed, and that is by the cultivation of the soil. 
 Ventilate the soil of Africa by turning it up and 
 exposing it to the rays of the sun — heat of a cer- 
 tain temperature being destructive to all germs — 
 and it will at once put in operation the only effi- 
 cient method of ridding the West and Southwest 
 Coast of malaria poison. Every foot of soil that is 
 put under cultivation will prove a menace to the 
 continued existence of malaria. This, coupled with 
 laws to compel the natives to observe sanitary reg- 
 ulations, will in a comparatively brief time effect a 
 favorable transformation in the present climatic 
 conditions of West and Southwest Africa. 
 
Climatic Conditions, 
 
 129 
 
 The following is the 
 ical observations during 
 12 m. : 
 
 report of my meteorolog- 
 the voyage, noted daily at 
 
 DATE. 
 
 LAT. 
 
 LONG. 
 
 Bar. 
 
 bi) 
 
 M 
 
 <D 
 
 rP 
 
 EH 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 6. 
 
 50.51 
 
 7.01 
 
 30.50 
 
 59.00 
 
 63.00 
 
 Fair. 
 
 
 7. 
 
 47.04 
 
 9.20 
 
 30.55 
 
 59.00 
 
 67.00 
 
 “ 
 
 
 8. 
 
 43.13 
 
 10.58 
 
 30.50 
 
 63.00 
 
 68.00 
 
 “ 
 
 44 
 
 9. 
 
 39.10 
 
 12.12 
 
 30.40 
 
 65.00 
 
 70.50 
 
 “ 
 
 44 
 
 10. 
 
 35.07 
 
 13.29 
 
 30.10 
 
 65.50 
 
 73.00 
 
 Cloudy. 
 
 it 
 
 11. 
 
 31.10 
 
 14.39 
 
 30.20 
 
 59.50 
 
 75.00 
 
 Fair. Fresh Breeze. 
 
 
 12. 
 
 27.21 
 
 15.33 
 
 30.30 
 
 61.00 
 
 76.00 
 
 “ 
 
 
 13. 
 
 23.36 
 
 16.59 
 
 30.25 
 
 65.50 
 
 75.00 
 
 “ Stiff breeze. 
 
 
 14. 
 
 19.52 
 
 18.06 
 
 30.15 
 
 72.50 
 
 80.00 
 
 Partly cloudy. 
 
 
 15. 
 
 16.17 
 
 17.52 
 
 30.10 
 
 70.00 
 
 82.50 
 
 Fair.(Rain storm 2.40p. m.) 
 
 
 16. 
 
 12.31 
 
 17.27 
 
 30.12 
 
 72.00 
 
 82.75 
 
 Fair. Off' Cape Verde. 
 
 
 17. 
 
 9.54 
 
 15.36 
 
 30.12 
 
 73.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 Rain. Cool breeze. 
 
 
 18. 
 
 8.30 
 
 13.18 
 
 30.00 
 
 69.00 
 
 80.25 
 
 Cloudy. Rain. (Sierra 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Leone.) 
 
 
 19. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 71.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Cloudy. Rain. 
 
 
 20. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 73.00 
 
 80.50 
 
 Cloudy. 
 
 
 21. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 78.00 
 
 79.90 
 
 Fair. 
 
 ( i 
 
 22. 
 
 
 E. Long. 
 
 30.10 
 
 73.00 
 
 79.90 
 
 Fair and hazy. 
 
 (i 
 
 23. 
 
 3° 31' 48" 
 
 0° 11' 30" 
 
 30.10 
 
 73.50 
 
 76.25 
 
 Fair. (Accra ) 
 
 ( < 
 
 24. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 73.00 
 
 78.00 
 
 Cloudy. (Lagos.) 
 
 4 4 
 
 25. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 78.40 
 
 Rain ail day. 
 
 44 
 
 26. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 69.0C 
 
 S0.00 
 
 86 on shore. (Fernando Po.) 
 
 (( 
 
 27. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 80.50 
 
 At anchor in Victoria. 
 
 i t 
 
 28. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 75.00 
 
 79.50 
 
 Rain. (Cameroon River.) 
 
 44 
 
 29. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 74.00 
 
 80.25 
 
 Fair. “ 
 
 4 4 
 
 30. 
 
 
 
 30.07 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ “ “ 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 . 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 73.00 
 
 80.25 
 
 “ At Sea. 
 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 44 44 44 
 
 ( 4 
 
 3. 
 
 
 
 30.25 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.25 
 
 • “ “ “ 
 
 4 < 
 
 4. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 44 44 44 
 
 (4 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 In port at Eloby. 
 
 <( 
 
 6. 
 
 0° 22' 00" 
 
 9° 23' 00" 
 
 30.05 
 
 71.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 In port at Gaboon. 
 
 (I 
 
 7. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 71.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 At Sea. 
 
 (4 
 
 8. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 71.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ “ 
 
 44 
 
 9. 
 
 
 
 80.00 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Fair. (At anchor Loango.) 
 
 
 10. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 73.00 
 
 81.00 
 
 “ (Port Quello.) 
 
 
 11. 
 
 South. 
 
 East. 
 
 30.05 
 
 74.00 
 
 78.00 
 
 Rain. (Port of Cabenda., 
 
 4 4 
 
 12. 
 
 6° 8' 00" 
 
 12° 11 '00" 
 
 30.00 
 
 74.00 
 
 78.00 
 
 In the Congo. 
 
 44 
 
 13. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 71.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 44 
 
 14. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 68.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Above Boma. 
 
 
 “ 
 
 
 
 
 63.00 
 
 85.00 
 
 4.00 p. m. Above Boma. 
 
 4 4 
 
 15. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 67.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 
 
 “ 
 
 
 
 
 62.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 4.00 p. m. 
 
 4 4 
 
 16. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 68.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 
 
 “ 
 
 
 
 
 
 86.00 
 
 4.00 p. m. 
 
 4 ( 
 
 17. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 66.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Rain. (Matadi.) 
 
 4 4 
 
 18. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 66.00 
 
 82.50 
 
 Fair. 
 
 4 4 
 
 19. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (Boma.) 
 
 44 
 
 20. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 70.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (Boma.) 
 
 4 4 
 
 21. 
 
 
 
 30.15 
 
 70.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 At Sea. 
 
 9 
 
130 
 
 Glimpses of Africa, 
 
 DATE. 
 
 LAT. 
 
 LONG. 
 
 f-i 
 
 o3 
 
 w 
 
 bib 
 
 W 
 
 <D 
 
 A 
 
 H 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 
 South. 
 
 East. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oct. 
 
 22. 
 
 8° 48' 05" 
 
 13° 13' 00" 
 
 30.05 
 
 69.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Fair. (Loanda.) 
 
 “ 
 
 23. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 70.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Cloudy. (Ambriz.) 
 
 i ( 
 
 24. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 72.00 
 
 80. 0C 
 
 Fair. (Musera.) 
 
 it 
 
 25. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (Ambrizette.) 
 
 (1 
 
 26. 
 
 
 
 30.15 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (At Sea.) 
 
 < 1 
 
 27. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 71.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 Cloudy. (Muculla.) 
 
 (1 
 
 28. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Fair. (Cabenda.) 
 
 It 
 
 29. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (Landana.) 
 
 tt 
 
 30. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Rain. 
 
 1 1 
 
 31. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 Fair. (Fouta.) 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 72.00 
 
 80.00 
 
 “ (Loango.) 
 
 “ 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 71.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 “ (At Sea.) 
 
 «( 
 
 3. 
 
 
 
 30.15 
 
 72.00 
 
 81 00 
 
 Rain. (SetteCama.) 
 
 
 4. 
 
 
 
 30.10 
 
 72.00 
 
 81.00 
 
 Fair. (N’gove.) 
 
 it 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 30,10 
 
 72.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 “ (Cape Lopez.) 
 
 it 
 
 6. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 73.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 Rain. (Gaboon.) 
 
 
 7. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 72.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 Fair 
 
 
 8. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 Fair. Eloby. 
 
 
 9. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 83.50 
 
 Fair. (At Sea.) 
 
 
 10. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ (Cameroon.) 
 
 
 11. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 86.00 
 
 ii 
 
 12. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 86.00 
 
 “ “ 
 
 
 13. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 71.00 
 
 82.00 
 
 At Sea. 
 
 “ 
 
 14. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 71.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 it a 
 
 “ 
 
 15. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Rio del Ray. 
 
 4i 
 
 16. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 At Sea. 
 
 tt 
 
 17. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ “ 
 
 it 
 
 18. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Accra 1.30 p. m. 
 
 ( t 
 
 19. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 At Sen. 
 
 
 20. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Fair. (At Sea.) 
 
 “ 
 
 21. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 «( 
 
 22. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Monrovia. 
 
 It 
 
 23. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ 
 
 “ 
 
 24. 
 
 
 
 29.05 
 
 63.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ 
 
 
 25. 
 
 
 
 29.05 
 
 63.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ 
 
 
 26. 
 
 
 
 30.05 
 
 71.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Fair. (Monrovia.) 
 
 “ 
 
 27. 
 
 
 
 30.01 
 
 71.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 “ ^ “ 
 
 * l 
 
 28. 
 
 
 
 29.05 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Thunder and lightning. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Earlv rain. (Monrovia.) 
 
 
 29. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 Rain at Night. “ 
 
 “ 
 
 30. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 70.00 
 
 86.00 
 
 Cool and partly cloudy. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 1. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 54.00 
 
 84.00 
 
 < l 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 10.00 
 
 64.00 
 
 88.00 
 
 Cloudless at Sea 4.00 p. m. 
 
 
 3. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 64.00 
 
 88.00 
 
 “ “ 
 
 ( < 
 
 4. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 64.00 
 
 38.00 
 
 “ (Sierra Leone.) 
 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 30.00 
 
 64.00 
 
 88.00 
 
 
 6. 
 
 
 
 
 64.00 
 
 88.00 
 
 “ “ “ 
 
 “ 
 
 24. 
 
 
 
 30.50 
 
 69.00 
 
 56.00 
 
 At Sea, 163 miles from 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
CHAPTER Ull. 
 
 No Special Inducements Offered. 
 
 T he last reason for my going to Africa, as set 
 forth in the preface to this book, was to ascer- 
 tain whether that Continent holds out any special 
 inducements to young, intelligent, and industrious 
 Americans of African descent to emigrate there. 
 Perhaps the greatest surprise which I experienced 
 during my voyage was to learn that it does not, 
 which may seem to many a paradox. What! Af- 
 rica not in need of educated and industrious young 
 Americans — the descendants of her own sons! 
 This I do not undertake to aver of Africa as a 
 whole, but I feel warranted in asserting that the 
 supply of intelligent natives, fitted for professional 
 and clerical service, and for the skilled industries, 
 is greater than the demand. I confess to a feeling 
 of pleasurable disappointment when the fact dawned 
 upon me that West Africa could supply a greater 
 number of skilled craftsmen than for whom places 
 could be obtained. No one at a distance can fairly 
 estimate the large facilities for the instruction of 
 the natives in letters and industrial pursuits which 
 exist in Sierra Leone, Accra, and Lagos ; while not 
 a few of the natives on the Southwest Coast have 
 been educated in the universities at Barcelona, 
 Spain, and at Lisbon, Portugal. At all points on 
 
 ( 131 ) 
 
132 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 the West and Southwest Coast where British, 
 French, German, Spanish, and Portuguese steam- 
 ships regularly stop are to be found educated natives 
 —educated not only in letters, but trained in me- 
 chanical industries as well. Where proper induce- 
 ments are held out a fair proportion of the civilized 
 natives readily take to mechanical pursuits, which 
 at least can be stated of the natives of Freetown, 
 Accra, and Lagos. 
 
 It is no exaggeration to say that Freetown is suf- 
 fering by reason of a plethora of mechanics. On 
 my voyage along the West and Southwest Coast, 
 at every important point I met craftsmen from Si- 
 erra Leone. There is a larger number of houses 
 of European architecture in Freetown than is to 
 be found at any other place on the West and 
 Southwest Coast, except at St. Paul de Loanda; 
 and many of these houses are not only substantial, 
 but ornamental in their structure. A number of 
 the craftsmen of Freetown are stonemasons, car- 
 penters, tailors, brickmakers, and shoemakers. 
 There is no addition needed to this class of crafts- 
 men at present, as those already on the ground are 
 more than sufficient to supply the demand. The 
 overplus seek employment elsewhere, and are to be 
 found along the Southwest Coast. What is true of 
 Freetown is also true of Accra and Lagos. Hence 
 there is no need of American craftsmen of African 
 descent in the British Colonies on the West Coast 
 of Africa. The same condition obtains in the Span- 
 ish, German, French, Belgian, and Portuguese Pos- 
 
BOY’S GRAMMAR SCHOOL, FREETOWN, SIERRA LEONE. 
 
No Special Inducements Offered. 
 
 135 
 
 sessions and Protectorates on the West and South- 
 west Coast. The philosophy of the situation will 
 be easily understood when it is remembered that 
 the uncivilized native does not require the services of 
 skilled craftsmen. He has no need of the carpen- 
 ter, as he builds bis own hut, into the construction 
 ot which neither stones nor bricks nor beveled edged 
 and smooth surface boards enter, and the exterior of 
 which is not brightened and adorned with paint. 
 He has no need of the tailor, as he wears no clothes 
 except a loin cloth. He never avails himself of the 
 services of a shoemaker, as he wears no shoes. In a 
 word, the uncivilized native can fully supply his 
 own wants, which are exceedingly few, without 
 the aid of an intelligent craftsman. This is true of 
 the uncivilized native in every part of Atrica. 
 Hence civilization must be extended in order to 
 create the need of additional mechanics on the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa. 
 
 What has been said in regard to the oversupply 
 of craftsmen is equally true in respect to clerks. 
 There is by far a much larger number of educated 
 natives on the West and Southwest Coast of Africa 
 than is generally supposed. For nearly three-quar- 
 ters of a century primary schools, high schools, 
 grammar schools, and a college have been afford- 
 ing facilities for the education of the youth of Free- 
 town and Sierra Leone. The following is a list of 
 the colleges and schools: Fourah Bay College, es- 
 tablished February, 1828 ; Grammar School, estab- 
 lished March, 1845 ; Wesleyan High School, estab- 
 
136 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 lished May, 1874 ; the Anne Walsh Memorial Fe- 
 male Institution, established 1840; the Wesleyan 
 Female Educational Institution, established 1880; 
 and the Roman Catholic Male and Female High 
 Schools, the date of whose establishment is not 
 known. These several educational institutions 
 turn out annually a large number of well-informed 
 youths of both sexes. A large proportion of the 
 male element is employed as clerks, and their serv- 
 ices are greatly in demand along the West and 
 Southwest Coast. 
 
 At Accra, the seat of the Cold Coast Colony, and 
 the site of the celebrated Basel Mission, many na- 
 tives are to be found engaged in the trades and in 
 industrial pursuits. Upon the authority of Payne’s 
 Lagos and West African Almanac and Diary for 
 1894, the following account of the establishment of 
 the Basel Mission, which is known far and wide for 
 its beneficial results, is given. Mr. Payne’s state- 
 ments on this point are not only interesting, but 
 merit a high degree of credit, for the reason that he 
 is a native and a resident of Africa. He speaks 
 thus : 
 
 The mission of the Basel Evangelical Missionary Society of 
 the Gold Coast was commenced in the year 1828. At that time 
 the eastern part of the Gold Coast belonged to the Danish 
 Crown, and as the King of Denmark then on the throne was 
 much interested in Christian missions to the heathen, it was 
 expected that the Danish government vrould favor and protect 
 the interests of a mission established in their African Posses- 
 sions. In 1828 the King of Denmark, having granted permis- 
 sion to commence a mission on the Gold Coast, the first mis- 
 
No Special Inducements Offered. 
 
 137 
 
 sionaries were set apart and started for their future labors, 
 traveling by way of Copenhagen (the Danish capital) and En- 
 gland, and arrived at Christiansborg, the principal port belong- 
 ing to the Danes on the African Coast, on December 18, 1828. 
 The Danish governor received them very cordially, and the re- 
 ception accorded them by the chiefs and people was of a friend- 
 ly character. The small party was soon attacked by sickness, 
 which to three of the four proved fatal within eight months of 
 their landing. For two and a half years the fourth continued 
 to labor on, acting as chaplain to the Europeans and preaching 
 to the heathen, besides conducting daily a school of ninety chil- 
 dren, and meanwhile looking anxiously for the arrival of help 
 from Europe. 
 
 In March, 1832, three new missionaries arrived, who had 
 looked forward to benefit by his experience, but found he had 
 been dead several months. Great as this trial was to the com- 
 mittee and friends of the mission, it was soon followed by oth- 
 ers not less heavy. The three new missionaries had been in the 
 country only six weeks -when one of them died, and six weeks 
 later another was taken. The sole survivor (Mr. Riis) now had 
 his attention turned to the elevated land in the interior, and 
 came to the conclusion — a conclusion confirmed by a visit he 
 made to the region — that it would prove more congenial to the 
 European constitu ion than the lowland- near the coast. In 
 1835 he began mission work at Akropong, the princial town in 
 the Akuapem Mountains. Here he labored for upwards of four 
 years, seeing but little fruit of his labors beyond a growing con- 
 fidence in him, and an increasing friendliness on the part of the 
 natives. In 1836 two new missionaries arrived to take part in 
 the work, but within two years both died. At the same time 
 there were political quarrels among the natives, and misunder- 
 standings between the natives and the Danish Government on 
 the Coast, which hindered the work much. Change of climate 
 had become necessary to Mr. Riis, on account of his health. 
 His presence at headquarters was also necessary, to enable the 
 committee at home to judge as to what their future action should 
 be. He paid a visit to Coomassie, the capital of Ashantee, and 
 then returned to Germany. 
 
 For a time it was an open question whether the mission 
 
138 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 should not be given up, but eventually it was decided to carry 
 it on. Mr. Riis, together with Mr. Widmann, went to the West 
 Indies, with the view of getting some liberated and Christian- 
 ized Africans to go with them to settle on the Gold Coast. Early 
 in 1843 they sailed in a chartered vessel from Jamaica, with 
 twenty-four Christian Africans on board, direct for Christians- 
 borg, where they landed on the 17th of April, and at once pro- 
 ceeded to Akropong. 
 
 The immigrants were for a time very useful to the mission, 
 but they did not realize the expectations which had been formed 
 of them. Some were the cause of much trouble, and some re- 
 turned to the West Indies. Few proved faithful. The mission 
 had, nevertheless, obtained a secure footing in the country. 
 Substantial houses were built, the language was learned, and 
 the missionaries soon became able to preach in it. 
 
 In 1847 the first two baptisms took place. In 1846 the mis- 
 sion part was reinforced by the arrival of new missionaries from 
 Europe, and Christiansborg was reoccupied, as it was desirable 
 to have a station on the coast. New missionaries joined the 
 mission in 1847, and again in 1850. Five of the brethren de- 
 voted themselves to reducing the languages of the Gold Coast to 
 writing, and to the translation into them of the Holy Scriptures, 
 a work which involved many years of hard and patient labor, 
 but which was successfully completed. Besides this, hymn 
 books, school books, grammars, and vocabularies were prepared 
 and printed in the languages. Two seminaries for the teaching 
 and training of young men were opened. In 1850 there were 
 at work six European missionaries, three European ladies, and 
 five native assistants ; in the schools were 198 children, and the 
 church members numbered 46. In 1853 the native assistants 
 had increased to 16, and the baptized natives to 162. Thus the 
 mission was prospering, when in 1854 disturbances of apolitical 
 character seriously interfered with it. The natives at Christians- 
 borg revolted against British authority, and a man-of-war bom- 
 barded the town. The mission premises were much dam- 
 aged. Most of the natives fled into the interior, to a place 
 named Abokobi, situated at the foot of the Akuapem Mountains, 
 and about twenty miles from the coast. There they were fol- 
 lowed by two missionaries. As the place was about the center 
 

 
 ■ 
 
 . _ r_ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ERHARDT LUDWIG LUTTERODT, PROF O. MOORE, 
 
 Photographer, Accra. Principal of Boys’ Grammar School, Freetown. 
 
No Special Inducements Offered. 
 
 141 
 
 of a number of villages, it was made a principal station, whence 
 other places around were \ isited or occupied. In January, 1881, 
 the Christians connected with this and the out-stations around 
 it numbered 660, of whom 345 were communicants, and 315 
 children. 
 
 An important step connected with the well-being of the 
 mission was taken in 1857, when the Industrial Department was 
 added to it. This consisted of a carpenter’s, a wheelright's, and 
 a blacksmith’s shop, each under the management of a Europe- 
 an. The anticipated good results of the step have been fully 
 realized, and both natives and Europeans acknowledge the 
 great good to the country which has been done by this depart- 
 ment. Previously to the opening of the industrial part of the 
 mission, a model coffee plantation had been started at Akro- 
 pong to bring the natives to the cultivation of that useful tree. 
 
 In the British Colonies of West Africa there are 
 native printers, brickmakers, photographers, car- 
 penters, bricklayers, painters, bookbinders, drug- 
 gists, watchmakers, ta§§ors, auctioneers, coopers, 
 and goldsmiths; and in all these trades the supply 
 is greater than the demand. In a previous chapter I 
 referred somewhat at length to the professional men, 
 and the clerks. In a conversation with the present 
 Governor of the Sierra Leone Colony, touching the 
 probability of intelligent and industrious American 
 youth of African descent finding suitable employ- 
 ment within the British Possessions, he very posi- 
 tively informed me that the only class likely to be 
 welcomed was skilled agriculturists, but that they 
 did not need any clerks or the service of persons 
 who are merely qualified for mental employment. 
 
 Contrary to general belief, there are no great and 
 imposing cities on the "West and Southwest Coast 
 of Africa, and consequently there are no large cen- 
 
142 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ters of civilization, and the ratio of the civilized to 
 the uncivilized peoples is exceedingly small. Civil- 
 ization on the West and Southwest Coast is fully 
 supplied with persons competent to perform men- 
 tal labor. In fact, this class has grown so numer- 
 ous that the school authorities are discussing the 
 propriety of limiting the facilities for mere mental 
 training, and establishing technical and agricultural 
 schools. There is almost no limit to the demand 
 for skilled agriculturists. Truck farming, conduct- 
 ed systematically, at Freetown, Monrovia, Accra, 
 Lagos, and a number of other places on the West 
 and Southwest Coast, could be made highly profit- 
 able. 
 
 Poultry and stock raising could also be made 
 largely remunerative. The fields and forests of 
 Africa offer unbounded sources of wealth as the re- 
 ward for the labor of the skilled and industrious 
 agriculturist. The physician can find plenty of la- 
 bor in Africa, provided he is willing to engage in 
 charity practice. 
 
 There are few, if any, American firms now doing 
 business on the West and Southwest Coast of Afri- 
 ca, which increases the difficulty of an American 
 youth of Africaii descent finding engagement in 
 mercantile pursuits, such as bookkeepers, clerks, 
 etc. An individual with the willingness and abil- 
 ity to work, and sufficient capital to invest in a cof- 
 fee farm, a palm tree orchard, or a rubber nursery, 
 might be able to reap fair returns for his investment 
 and labor. However, let it be distinctly understood 
 
No Special Inducements Offered 
 
 143 
 
 that no part of Africa furnishes a royal pathway to 
 easy, luxurious living and wealth ; and there is no 
 place in the world where paupers are likely to ex- 
 perience more difficulties and hardships than there. 
 
 The contents of the following clipping from the 
 Atlanta (G-a.) Constitution, of a recent date, is as 
 true of Africa as it is of Alabama ; and the former 
 holds out no more nor greater inducements to pen- 
 niless emigrants than does the latter : 
 
 One hundred heads of families in Chicago have asked the 
 county authorities to pay for the transportation of themselves 
 and families (some five hundred persons) to Alabama, where 
 they say they are preparing to establish a colony. The colony 
 was organized by the unemployed workingmen around Chicago, 
 and the idea is to start a co-operative society. They have a suit- 
 able tract in view of four thousand acres, and hope to make their 
 experiment a success. We sympathize with these unemployed 
 people, but if they are too poor to pay for their transportation 
 they are not the right sort of immigrants, and it is safe to say 
 they would find it very hard to get along in Alabama. The 
 people who come South in search of homes need not be rich, 
 but they should not be paupers. 
 
 It seems to me the height of folly for persons to 
 leave their native land and go to any country with 
 the hope of bettering their condition, unless they 
 have a reasonable assurance before leaving that 
 their condition can thereby he improved. My ad- 
 vice to young Americans of African descent is to 
 prepare themselves for a manful struggle for exist- 
 ence and well-being in the land of their birth. 
 
 1 OlMRSQiy g, ^ yy 
 
 PHONE WEST 1716 1 
 

 
PART SECOND. 
 
PERSONAL MEMORANDA. 
 
 F OR twenty years the desire to visit Africa had 
 seized the writer — a desire created by the read- 
 ing of a book called “ The Negro Problem Solved.” 
 This hook fell into my hands in 1874, when I was 
 a member of the House of Representatives of the 
 State of Alabama. My attention was called to it 
 by my friend and fellow- member, the Hon. Her- 
 schel V. Cashin, now a prosperous business man at 
 Decatur, Ala. In general conversation he had fre- 
 quently heard me refer to Africa in terms which 
 led him to suspect that I had faith in its ultimate 
 redemption and development. I read the book re- 
 ferred to with keen interest, and then returned it 
 to its owner, and never saw it again, or a copy of 
 it — though for years I had made a diligent search 
 for the latter — until 1893. In the early spring of 
 that year I went to Wilberforce, Ohio, to deliver two 
 lectures on Africa. While there I was the guest of 
 Bishop Arnett, who remarked to me, just previous 
 to leaving his house to deliver my second lecture, 
 that if I would mention the word “Africa ” on my re- 
 turn he would hand me a book in which he thought 
 I would be interested. The suggestion was most 
 eagerly grasped by me, and as soon as it was acted 
 on, to my great joy and surprise I was handed a 
 copy of “ The Negro Problem Solved.” Its sight 
 
148 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 thrilled me with delight, as though I had suddenly 
 met with a beloved friend from whom I had been 
 separated for many years. 
 
 In the meantime I purchased and read all of 
 Stanley ’s works regarding Africa, Wilson's “ AVest- 
 ern Africa,” and a number of other volumes treat- 
 ing of the “ Dark Continent.” Through some 
 uncontrollable agency I found myself gradually 
 preparing to gratify a long-cherished desire to 
 make a personal visit to the land of my forefathers. 
 On my return to Nashville from AVilberforce, Ohio, 
 where 1 had been at the time previously indicated, 
 I had occasion to stop in Cincinnati for a few hours, 
 and while there was led to purchase Saussure’s hy- 
 grometer with a thermometer attached, an aneroid 
 barometer with a compass connected, a grand 
 power field glass, and a pedometer. 
 
 I had the several maps connected with Mr. Stan- 
 ley’s works detached and mounted, and hung on 
 the walls of my private office in our Sunday School 
 Union building. I also purchased a large wall map 
 of Africa, of recent issue, from Rand, McNally & 
 Co., Chicago, 111., with the aid of which, and in 
 connection with Air. Stanley’s maps, I set myself to 
 the study of the geography of Africa. 1 found 
 Wilson’s “ AVestern Africa” of inestimable value in 
 furnishing me interesting data concerning the to- 
 pography of the AVest and Southwest Coast of Af- 
 rica, the names and customs of the principal tribes 
 from the Senegal on the north to St. Paul de 
 Loando on the south. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 149 
 
 The day of departure lias come. It is the 17th 
 of August, 1894. All preparation for the journey 
 has been quietly conducted. It is a busy day and 
 full of anxious care. I am to attempt to travel 
 eighteen thousand miles by sea single-handed and 
 alone. I am to endeavor to traverse the West and 
 Southwest Coast of Africa for more than six thou- 
 sand miles — to pass through the meridian line, and 
 under the equatorial line, to a point about live hun- 
 dred miles south thereof. I am to be borne upon 
 the mighty Congo from Banana Point to Matadi, 
 the southwest terminus of the Congo railroad. I 
 shall not even come within the range of the shad- 
 ow of an acquaintance. Strange land, strange peo- 
 ple, strange scenes ! At 7.35 p. M. 1 start to the 
 depot, accompanied by a party of select friends. 
 The train is on time, and at 7.50 p. m. I give my 
 wife a farewell embrace, and wave a parting adieu 
 to my steadfast friends. 
 
 Sunday morning, August 19, about 7.30, the 
 train rolls into the Pennsylvania depot at Jersey 
 City, where I take a ferry boat for Hew York, in 
 the meantime having arranged for my luggage to 
 be delivered at the dock of the White Star Liue. 
 Among the things which were packed at Hashville 
 were tifty-five books, the works of American au- 
 thors of African descent, and a large wall map of 
 Africa, from Rand, McHally & Co., of Chicago, 111. 
 — all to be presented to the Hational Library of the 
 Republic of Liberia. A few purchases are made in 
 Hew York, among them a medicine chest, tilled with 
 
150 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 carefully selected remedies to combat diseases com- 
 mon in the tropics. 
 
 Early rising Wednesday morning, August 22, is 
 the order for those who are to embark at 9.80 on 
 the gigantic steamship “ Teutonic.” It is a delight- 
 ful morning, and the weather is propitious. At 
 9.20 I telegraph the last farewell to my fond wife, 
 and then turn my steps toward the ship, which I 
 soon board, and make my way to the second cabin 
 passengers’ promenade deck. Promptly at the ap- 
 pointed time the ponderous engines begin to pul- 
 sate, and the ship responds with a quiet movement. 
 There are 110 iirst-class passengers, 170 second-class, 
 and about 800 steerage. I have chosen to travel 
 second-class for more than one reason, and should 
 I cross the North Atlantic Ocean a thousand times 
 I would never travel first-class unless I represented 
 great wealth or had a passport to the society of the 
 “ 400.” Should any of my friends at any time have 
 occasion to cross the “big pond,” either on business 
 or for pleasure, I advise them to secure second-class 
 accommodations on the express ships of either the 
 White Star or Cunard lines. The fare is one-half 
 less than the first-class, while the association is a 
 thousand per cent, more flexible, companionable, 
 and hence more agreeable. 
 
 As the ship moves from its dock out into the 
 river a great throng of people gather at the end of 
 the pier and wave to loved ones and friends on 
 board the last farewell. 
 
 The voyage from New York to Liverpool is a 
 
Pe rs o n a l Me m or an d a . 
 
 151 
 
 most pleasant and agreeable one. For the first live 
 days the weather is ideal; not a cloud obscures the 
 bright rays of the sun. The last two days are 
 somewhat cloudy. During the entire voyage not a 
 squall is experienced. Many steamships and sailing- 
 vessels are sighted. We pass several fishing smacks 
 off the Newfoundland Banks. Their presence ex- 
 cites considerable interest, as they are small crafts, 
 and the passengers think the occupants have great 
 courage and daring to trust themselves to such 
 seemingly frail protection on the great deep, so far 
 from the shore. Several schools of porpoise are 
 seen, and an occasional whale. 
 
 On Saturday I am requested by the chief steward 
 to conduct divine service on Sunday morning. I 
 accept the invitation, though I inform him that the 
 English church service is entirely new to me. 
 
 Sunday morning at 10.30 nearly all the passen- 
 gers, except the Catholics, assemble in the cabin, 
 and I do the best I can in conducting divine serv- 
 ice after tbe order of the established Church of En- 
 gland. There is no sermon. The congregation 
 joins quite heartily in the singing and the responses. 
 The service is seemingly enjoyed, and I am more 
 than once congratulated on my success. One end 
 of a table, on which rests a cushion covered with 
 the English flag, serves as the pulpit, or lecturn. 
 When I reflect that the flag before me symbolizes 
 tbe power of an empire which sways its authority 
 over more than three hundred millions of subjects, 
 I confess to experiencing a slight feeling of pride. 
 
152 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Two Irishmen and. an Irish youth are my state- 
 room companions, and they treat me with uniform 
 courtesy and respect. As a compliment to me, one 
 of them attended the service which I conducted 
 Sunday morning. 
 
 There is a distinguished Anglo-Chinaman among 
 the first cabin passengers, but I do not notice any 
 of the other passengers associating with him. 
 
 At 12 m., Tuesday, the 28th, we are 35 miles from 
 Queenstown, and 275 miles from Liverpool. The 
 average speed of the ship is nineteen miles per hour. 
 A large number of steerage and a few first and sec- 
 ond cabin passengers disembark at Queenstown. 
 
 On the morning of Wednesday (29), at 3 o’clock, 
 we drop anchor in the Mersey River at Liverpool, 
 having made the voyage in six days, seventeen 
 hours, and thirty minutes. The following is the 
 
 “Log” : 
 
 
 
 
 DATE. 
 
 LATITUDE. 
 
 LONGITUDE. 
 
 RUN. 
 
 August 23. 
 
 41.30 N. 
 
 67.37 W. 
 
 475 miles. 
 
 August 24. 
 
 44 N. 
 
 53.51 W. 
 
 456 miles. 
 
 August 25. 
 
 46.81 N. 
 
 43 59 W. 
 
 459 miles. 
 
 August 26. 
 
 42.37 N. 
 
 32.37 W. 
 
 459 miles. 
 
 August 27. 
 
 50.55 N. 
 
 21.14 W. 
 
 459 miles. 
 
 August 28. 
 
 51.28 N. 
 
 9.05 W. 
 
 465 miles. 
 
 Thegray dawn of the newmorn finds all astir, pre- 
 paratory to taking a tender for the Princess Land- 
 ing Stage at Liverpool. The first and second cabin 
 passengers disembark at the same time, and with 
 their luggage are taken to the custom house. After 
 passing customs there is a general separation, and 
 faces which had grown familiar to each other by 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 153 
 
 seven days’ association vanish in the distance, 
 never to meet again until the “ sea shall give up 
 its dead.” 
 
 Taking a cab, I am speedily driven to Lawrence’s 
 Temperance Hotel, Clayton Square, where I had 
 stopped on my first visit to Liverpool. So soon as 
 I am settled in my room I hasten to the otiice of 
 the British and African Steam Navigation Compa- 
 ny, Limited, and engage passage for a cruise of the 
 West and Southwest Coast of Africa, on the steam- 
 ship Benguela,” which is advertised to leave 
 Wednesday, September 5, at 10 a. m. I purchase a 
 first-class ticket to St. Paul de Loando and return, 
 with the privilege of stopping at Monrovia, Libe- 
 ria, and Freetown, Sierra Leone, on the homeward 
 voyage. I then attend to giving orders for some 
 tropical clothing. 
 
 Thursday, August 30, at 1 p. m., I am at the Mid- 
 land Railway Station, en route to Antwerp and Brus- 
 sels, hearing letters of introduction to the Director 
 General of the Congo Railway at the latter place. 
 I am anxious to learn if there is a favorable open- 
 ing in the Congo for colored Americans. When I 
 visited the Universal Exposition at Antwerp last 
 spring the Congo exhibit was not complete, and the 
 natives from that section were not to be seen. My 
 great desire to see the Congo exhibit and the na- 
 tives is the inducing cause which leads me to visit 
 Antwerp a second time. My route is from Liver- 
 pool to Harwich by rail, and thence to Antwerp by 
 steamer. The latter place is reached Friday morn- 
 
154 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ing about 10 o’clock. There is a large number of 
 passengers on board. I register at the Hotel Reu- 
 ben, and take the first train for Brussels, which 
 place is reached within an hour by rail. Upon in- 
 quiry at the office of the Director General of the 
 Congo Railroad, I am informed that his company 
 is not in need of any help additional to what it has. 
 I have heard many conflicting reports concerning 
 the management of this railroad, but shall make 
 full inquiry before expressing an opinion. It will 
 be remembered that the great colored historian, 
 Hon. George W. Williams, visited the Congo sev- 
 eral years ago; but his report was never published, 
 he having died in England, en route to America. I 
 leave Brussels about 6 p. m., and reach Antwerp an 
 hour later. Brussels is a beautiful city, and is well 
 named the second Paris. It has an electric street 
 railroad, with first and second-class cars. While 
 here I catch sight of an imposing, stately looking 
 black man — young, handsome, and dressed in the 
 height of fashion. He is in company with two 
 Belgian nabobs, and can talk French as fluently as 
 a Parisian. I certainly covet the pleasure of his 
 acquaintance. He is the cynosure of all eyes as he 
 strides with royal step through the grand boule- 
 vards. When I visited Brussels last spring I did 
 not see a single black face, though I was here quite 
 three days. 
 
 Saturday morning I visit the Exposition, but 
 liave to wait until 2 p. m. before I can seethe Con- 
 golese, as they only spend two hours each day — • 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 155 
 
 from 2 to 4 — on the grounds. I till out the time 
 in the interval by a visit to the South African ex- 
 hibit and the Congo Palace. These two depart- 
 ments constitute the best part of the Exposition. 
 Have an interesting talk with two of the Commis- 
 sioners of the former. The Congo Palace is well 
 filled with specimens of the natural products of the 
 country and the skill of the natives. There is a 
 printing press and some type in one corner, where 
 visiting cards are printed by native boys. The 
 boys who do the printing were educated at an En- 
 glish mission on the lower Congo. One of the 
 number, Bulanti by name, is cpfite intelligent. Two 
 Congolese soldiers do guard duty at the main en- 
 trances of the palace. Two Congolese girls, about 
 twelve years of age, dressed in sailor suits and caps, 
 are objects of much attention. At 2 p. m. bugle 
 sounds are heard — the signal for the entrance of 
 the Congolese soldiers and people, about one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five in all. The soldiers are well 
 drilled, and seem to greatly appreciate their posi- 
 tion. They are in charge of a white officer. These 
 people are greatly disfigured by their tribal marks. 
 The Belgian visitors to the Exposition treat them 
 with great respect and fondness. An enthusiastic 
 Belgian importunes one of the females for a kiss — 
 a curiosity which she gratifies, much to the merri- 
 ment of hundreds of spectators. Suppose this had 
 taken place in America. What disgust! What 
 censure would have been expressed! I obtain 
 eighteen photographs of these people. I leave Ant- 
 
156 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 werp Saturday night for Liverpool, by the same 
 route I came. The steamer is crowded with pas- 
 sengers. We reach Harwich at 6.45 Sunday morn- 
 ing, after a smooth and pleasant passage of twelve 
 hours. One of the ship’s officers informs me 
 that the passage is an extraordinarily smooth one. 
 Through the neglect or carelessness of officials at 
 the railway station, I miss the through train for 
 Liverpool, and will not get to the end of my jour- 
 ney until 3 a. m. Monday. I have to make four 
 changes and as many lay-overs, which would not 
 have been the case had it been a week day instead 
 of Sunday. Having about an hour’s wait at Peter- 
 horo, I visit its ancient and famous cathedral, and 
 reach it just in time to hear the congregation sing 
 the last four lines of “Jesus, Lover of My Soul.” 
 One of the attaches informs me that it was begun 
 in 1628, is capable of seating twelve hundred per- 
 sons, has a choir of over one hundred members, and 
 is rich in historic associations. As it is dusk when 
 I visit it, I can form no definite idea of its archi- 
 tectural style, or the general appearance of its ex- 
 terior. It has a most magnificent organ. By chance 
 I meet a lady who was a passenger on the steam- 
 ship “ Germanic” when I crossed from New York 
 to Liverpool last spring. 
 
 Monday and Tuesday, September 3, 4, are spent 
 in completing arrangements for my African trip. 
 My tropical outfit consists of three suits of white 
 flannel, six white flannel top shirts, six suits of 
 light flannel underwear, a pith helmet, a Panama 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 157 
 
 straw bat, a white umbrella, white canvas shoes, a 
 light rubber rain coat, rubber overshoes and leg 
 protectors, and a red silk cummer-band. To my 
 scientific instruments I add a self-registering ther- 
 mometer and a magnifying glass. Justly appre- 
 ciating the great interest shown by the Ladies’ Mite 
 Missionary Society of the A. M. E. Church in our 
 mission work in Africa, I decide to spread a grand 
 feast in their name, in Africa, for our missionaries. 
 To this end I make a liberal purchase of canned 
 goods, such as oxtail soup, chicken broth, pickles, 
 jam, apricots, pears, peaches, cakes, biscuits, etc.; 
 tea, sugar, chocolate, butter, and sherbet. 
 
 Tuesday I have the pleasure of taking luncheon 
 with an African merchant by the name of M. Al- 
 bert D. Essien, 9 St. James Road. He is perma- 
 nently established in Liverpool. 
 
 Wednesday morning, about 11 a. m., the steam- 
 ship “Benguela” weighs anchor at Liverpool, 
 steams down the Mersey River to St. George’s Chan- 
 nel, and out into the Atlantic Ocean, with the com- 
 pass indicating a southwesterly course. There are 
 just twelve passengers aboard, all bound for South- 
 west Africa. 
 
 The die is cast, and “sink or swim, survive or 
 perish,” I am at last en voyage to Africa. My new- 
 ly formed friend, the African merchant, made his 
 appearance on the tender, and boarded the ship 
 just before it started to bid me farewell. I need 
 not say that I fully appreciated this unusual exhibi- 
 tion of kindness by a stranger. 
 
158 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 I have previously stated that the passenger list 
 of the steamship “ Benguela ” numbers twelve, the 
 apostolic number. Among them is a young Meth- 
 odist clergyman and his wife, en route to Fernando 
 Po, as teachers in connection with a Primitive 
 Methodist mission. The first Sunday out I conduct 
 divine service according to the ritual of the English 
 Church. The second Sunday out the Rev. M. 
 Showed conducts service after the custom of the 
 Primitive Methodist Church. 
 
 September 12, between 7 and 8 o’clock a. m., we 
 pass in full view of the harbor and town of Las 
 Palmas, Grand Canary. 
 
 September 18, about 7.20 p. m., we sight the light 
 off Cape Verde, quite twenty-seven miles distant. 
 This lighthouse is the first illuminated mariner’s 
 guide on the West Coast of Africa, and is the 
 best. 
 
 September 18, about 6 A. m., our ship reaches Si- 
 erra Leone, with all well on board. I am agreeably 
 disappointed as to the size, character, and appear- 
 ance of the buildings. There is no dock or land- 
 ing place for ships. There is deep water, however, 
 and the ship anchors about three-fourths of a mile 
 from shore. After undergoing inspection by the 
 custom house officers (all black), I am escorted to 
 Rev. Frederick’s house, which I find large and airy, 
 and quite comfortably furnished. About 10 o’clock 
 we have breakfast. This is my first meal in Africa, 
 and it consists of fish, beefsteak, Irish potatoes im- 
 ported from Grand Canary, rice, raw tomatoes, tea, 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 159 
 
 butter, and the best bread I have eaten outside of 
 France. After breakfast I visit the African Meth- 
 odist Episcopal Church school, which numbers 
 311 pupils, with four teachers — three males and one 
 female — all natives. The sight is intensely inter- 
 esting. I make a brief talk to them, and am fol- 
 lowed by a young white Methodist preacher, who 
 propounds a number of questions in geography, 
 arithmetic, and spelling ; and every question, with- 
 out a single exception, is promptly and correctly 
 answered. The pupils are all decently and cleanly 
 clad. All the native business men of Sierra Leone 
 are as well dressed as the same class in London and 
 ISTew York. 
 
 I read in the current issue of the Sierra Leone 
 News that last July a national museum and library 
 was opened at Monrovia. As I shall stop at Mon- 
 rovia on my return voyage, I shall give an account 
 of this museum, with other interesting features of 
 the town. It is generally conceded that Liberia is 
 the best part of the Western Coast of Africa. We 
 ship fifteen head of cattle at Sierra Leone for Fer- 
 nando Po, which fact disproves all reports that cat- 
 tle will not thrive on the West Coast of Africa. 
 They are small, it is true, but seem to be thrifty 
 and healthy. 
 
 About 1 p. M. we weigh anchor and resume our 
 voyage. About 3 p. m., of the 19th, we are in full 
 view of Monrovia, which place is situated on a high 
 ridge. We steer quite a distance from the shore, 
 and therefore do not get a distinct view T of the place 
 
160 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 and its surroundings. I am, however, favorably 
 impressed with its location. 
 
 On the 20th we stop at two points on the Libe- 
 rian Coast, Sass Town and Grand Sess, the home 
 of the far-famed Kroomen. 
 
 We reach Accra on the evening of the 22d. Ac- 
 cra is the chief town on the Gold Coast, and is a 
 great center of mechanical industry. From it go 
 out every year hundreds of carpenters, coopers, 
 boat builders, etc. — all natives. They are trained 
 at the Basel Mission, which was established in 1828 
 by missionaries from Switzerland. 
 
 On the 24th, at 10 a. m., we drop anchor at Lagos. 
 This is a growing and thriving place, although it 
 is the youngest of the British Colonies on the West 
 Coast. There are at Lagos English, German, 
 French, Portuguese, Brazilian, and Spanish traders. 
 There are eighteen principal native traders and 
 many minor ones, live bookbinders, four druggists, 
 three watchmakers, live tailors, live auctioneers, 
 three bookmakers, three photographers, and four 
 goldsmiths — all natives. There are four publica- 
 tions printed, two weekly and two monthly; there 
 is also a commercial printing press. The weekly 
 papers are the Spectator and the Lagos Weekly Rec- 
 ord. The principal buildings are of brick and stone 
 of modern architecture. The census of 1891 esti- 
 mated the population of the town and harbor of 
 Lagos to he about 30,000. The population of the 
 town and Colony, including the Protectorate, has 
 been estimated at 85,607, of whom only 150 are 
 
EXTERIOR OF._CHRIST’S£CHURCH, LAGOS. 
 
 INTERIOR OF CHRIST’S CHURCH, LAGOS. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 163 
 
 white. The occupations of the native population 
 may be classed as traders, farmers, gardeners, fish- 
 ermen, and palm oil manufacturers. A yearly Al- 
 manac and Diary is published here, edited by a 
 native. The issue for 1894 contains 147 large oc- 
 tavo pages, and is full of valuable information. 
 Here, as at Sierra Leone and Accra, many of the 
 natives hold important offices. There are four 
 large German steamers anchored at this point. 
 Germany is pushing her trade in Africa, though 
 she only commenced her commercial career on the 
 coast ten years ago. Lagos is 4,300 miles from 
 Liverpool. 
 
 The highest point reached by the thermometer 
 from the beginning of our voyage to September 24 
 was on the 16th of September, when it stood 83° in 
 the shade, which is 13° lower than it was the week 
 I left Nashville. It is the peculiar, damp atmosphere 
 of the tropics, and not the heat, that is so unfriend- 
 ly to Europeans. AVhen one has learned to maintain 
 the normal temperature of the body the greatest 
 difficulty has been overcome. 
 
 September 26, at 9 a. m., we drop anchor at Fer- 
 nando Po, which is an island belonging to Spain, 
 and is situated in North Latitude 3° 46', and East 
 Longitude 8° 47'. It is of volcanic origin, and is 
 evidently the summit of a continuous chain of 
 volcanic elevations which, in addition to Fernando 
 Po, forms the islands of Princess, St. Thomas, and 
 Annobom. The highest peak of Fernando Po, 
 which is cone-shaped, is said to be 10,000 feet. 
 
164 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Clarence Cove, on the west side of the island, 
 furnishes excellent anchorage for shipping, and in 
 point of natural formation and tropical verdure is 
 one of the most inviting and picturesque places 
 that 1 have thus far seen during my voyage. 
 
 The natives of this island, numbering perhaps 
 20,000, are known by the name of “ Boobies.’ 5 
 They are a healthy-looking people, though in stat- 
 ure below the average height. They render their 
 persons disgustingly filthy by besmearing them- 
 selves with oil. To all appearances they are an in- 
 ferior people, somewhat on the level with the bush- 
 men of South Africa. They are very peaceably 
 disposed, and occupy the mountainous regions 
 away from the beach. They were never enslaved, 
 and are evidently too weak to survive the attrition 
 of civilizing processes, and therefore will ultimate- 
 ly disappear. 
 
 In 1826 Great Britain leased this island for a 
 term of fifty years, during which time several hun- 
 dred emigrants were brought to it from Sierra 
 Leone, Cape Coast, and other places in the British 
 Colonies of West Africa. Some of the descendants 
 of this class are to be found in and around Clarence 
 Cove, and are noted for their intelligence, thrift, 
 and industry. Some of them live in dwellings 
 which cost from $3,000 to $5,000; a few have large 
 plantations, and engage in cocoa raising to a con- 
 siderable extent; others engage largely in the cul- 
 tivation of yams, for which this island is famous. 
 
 The bulk of trade, which is not very extensive, 
 
Personal Memoranda 
 
 165 
 
 is controlled by Spanish and English factories. 
 There are a few missions on the island, divided be- 
 tween the Roman Catholics and the Primitive 
 Methodists. In strolling from the village to the 
 Protestant cemetery, I meet an army of the famous 
 insects, known as the drivers, and am very much 
 interested in their movements. 
 
 In the cemetery I observe a monument erected to 
 the memory of Mr. William Vivour, formerly a 
 native planter. This monument is forty feet high, 
 and was brought from Liverpool at a cost of $600. 
 I also note a monument erected to the memory of 
 another native, Mr. William Barleycorn, the cost 
 of Avhich was $300. 
 
 I have the pleasure ot meeting two well educated 
 natives, Rev. William Barleycorn, educated in Bar- 
 celona, Spain, and Dr. T. B. Barber, M. B., C. M., 
 a graduate of Edinburgh University, Scotland. 
 
 On this date the thermometer registers 86° Fahr. 
 in the shade. Stopping time, 22 hours and 25 min- 
 utes. 
 
 September 27 we weigh anchor at Fernando Po, 
 at 7.30 a. m., and steam for Victoria, thirty miles 
 distant, which place is reached in about three 
 hours. Though the distance between Fernando 
 Po and Victoria is only thirty miles, the fare is $5 
 for either first or second cabin passengers. 
 
 Victoria is part of the German Protectorate of 
 Cameroons. It is hid away in a nook, so to speak, 
 and contributes very little to trade and commerce. 
 The only object of interest is the Government bo- 
 
166 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 tanical garden, which is used for experimenting with 
 the native flowers, fruits, etc. 
 
 At one time a great part of Victoria belonged to 
 the English Baptist Missionary Society, and was 
 purchased from them by Germany about eight 
 years ago. A branch of the Basel Mission is lo- 
 cated here, with German missionaries in charge. 
 There is an Independent Baptist Mission, in charge 
 of a native by the name of Joseph Wilson, who 
 was educated by the Church Missionary Society at 
 Sierra Leone. In addition to his clerical duties, he 
 renders service to the Colonial Authorities as Pres- 
 ident of the Native Court. 
 
 The native population of this place is a compound 
 of diverse elements. In fact, it is regarded as a 
 rendezvous for bad characters from other places. 
 It is a kind of “ thieves’ paradise.” As a rule, the 
 natives are indolent and trifling, though a few of 
 them take some interest in agriculture. 
 
 Domestic animals, such as pigs, chickens, ducks, 
 goats, sheep, and cattle, are to be found in abun- 
 dance. 
 
 Victoria is one of two mountain peaks, named 
 by an English adventurer, Victoria and Albert. 
 Victoria is i 3 , 7 0 0 feet high. 
 
 The thermometer registers 81° on board ship at 
 anchor. Stopping time, 14 hours and 50 minutes. 
 
 September 28, at 2.35 a. m., we weigh anchor for 
 Cameroons — the “mountain mass,” so called — sit- 
 uated on the mainland over against the island of 
 Fernando Po. It has an area of about 11,000 
 
BOTANICAL GARDEN, VICTORIA 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 169 
 
 square miles, and an approximate population of 
 ■180,000. The general term “ Cameroons ” is ap- 
 plied to four distinct objects : Cameroons Country, 
 Cameroons Mountains, Cameroons River, and Cam- 
 eroons Town. The latter is situated on the right 
 bank of the river, about twenty miles from its 
 mouth. Cameroons Town is the seat of the Colo- 
 nial Government, and is flanked on either side by 
 a native village — Aqua Town on the left, and Bell 
 Town on the right, as you look toward the north. 
 At 5.30 P. M. we drop anchor off Cameroons Town. 
 
 The Government buildings are substantial and 
 commodious, and are surrounded by fairly improved 
 grounds. The trade is principally in the hands of 
 the English, though there are Genian and Swede 
 factories. I try to obtain an approximate estimate 
 of the aggregate population of the two native towns, 
 but fail. They are the largest, however, of any I 
 have yet seen adjoining a European settlement. 
 They bear the names of their rulers, King Bell and 
 King Aqua, though the latter is regarded as subor- 
 dinate to the former. Of the two towns, Bell Town 
 is much the larger. The natives are known far 
 and near for their cunningness in trade and dishon- 
 est practices. The tribal name of the people is 
 “Dwalla.” Cameroons is the English name. 
 
 September 29 I go ashore and visit Bell Town, 
 in company with Prince William, a son of King 
 Bell, for the purpose of seeing his father. I am 
 disappointed, however, as he is absent at Cameroons 
 Town. Prince William superintends a trading 
 
170 
 
 Glimpses of Af rica. 
 
 store, called “Royal Factory,” the property of his 
 brother, Prince Manga Bell. I am introduced to 
 Prince Manga Bell, eldest son of King Bell, heir 
 apparent to the throne, and have a long palaver 
 with him in his hut. He is probably about thirty- 
 live years of age, tall, of powerful build, and of a 
 rather commanding presence. He was educated in 
 England, is evidently shrewd and industrious, ot 
 good business tact, genial in his disposition, very 
 courteous to strangers, and observes the customs of 
 his people. Though educated in England under 
 Christian influences, he is a polygamist, and has 
 fifteen wives. He is building a seven-room house, 
 with brick made on the ground. The work is be- 
 ing done by mechanics from Accra. and the founda- 
 tion and first story are complete. 
 
 During a conversation with him I tell him that 
 rum will eventually prove the destruction of his 
 people, and that such, in my opinion, is the pur- 
 pose of some of the European peoples — notably the 
 Germans and Belgians. He seems to fully under 
 stand and appreciate the force of my remarks, and 
 cordially thanks me for my seeming interest in 
 the welfare of his people. He promises to secure 
 me an interview with his father the next day, and 
 Prince William promises to send a canoe to the 
 ship for me. 
 
 September 30 (Sunday) Prince William fails to 
 keep his promise to send a canoe to the ship to con- 
 vey me to Bell Town, and so I spend the entire day 
 quietly on hoard. 
 
A STREET IN BELL TOWN, CAMEROON'S. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 173 
 
 October 1, 3 p. m., I go ashore to post some let- 
 ters. As I pass through Aqua Town I meet King- 
 Aqua, an old, shriveled-up, drunken sot. He is 
 engaged in a dance with several of his head men. 
 It is impossible to give anything like an accurate 
 description of the dance, if dance it may be called. 
 There is no swaying of the hands or shuffling of 
 the feet, but seemingly a mere shrugging of the 
 muscles of the shoulders and back. The music is 
 made on a tom-tom, a native drum of curious and 
 ingenious construction. As I approach the palaver 
 house where the dance is going on, the music and 
 dance suddenly cease. I am accosted by a head 
 man, avIio with great suavity of manner informs me 
 that if I want to see them dance I must give them 
 “ dash.” I proffer a sixpence, which is readily ac- 
 cepted, the dance is resumed, and provokes on my 
 part a very decided feeling of disgust. 
 
 Securing a guide, I wend my way to the post 
 office, about a mile and a half distant, where I meet 
 Thomas Tracy Adams, a native telegrapher from 
 Accra in the employ of the Government. He has 
 been in the telegraph service since 1889. He does 
 not like the Germans, and has forwarded his resig- 
 nation to the home Government at Berlin. 
 
 From the post office I proceed a second time to 
 Bell Town, where I have a second conversation 
 with Prince Manga. The interview is quite ex- 
 tended, and covers many phases of the question 
 pertaining to the development of his country by 
 Europeans. In reply to a direct inquiry if he 
 
174 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 thought his people would ever become civilized as 
 Europeans are civilized, he expresses doubt, and 
 says, “ If so, it will be a long, long time.” “Don’t 
 know,” is his reply when asked if he thought the 
 Europeans would settle in his country in great 
 numbers. 
 
 In passing through, this village I meet a native 
 carpenter at work, and ask him why he does not 
 build a big house for himself. He answers, “Me 
 no fit to have big house.” 
 
 After purchasing six small elephant tusks, and 
 making arrangements with Prince Manga to see 
 King Bell on the morrow, I return to the ship. 
 
 October 2 I proceed to Bell Town m a canoe 
 which was furnished me by Prince Manga, this be- 
 ing my third visit to that place. I take with me my 
 Knight Templar accouterments and a banner repre- 
 senting the A. M. E. Church and its Sunday School 
 Union. On landing, I stop a few moments at 
 “ Royal Factory,” where I make arrangements with 
 a native photographer to photograph a group which 
 I will arrange after my visit to King Bell. From 
 “ Royal Factory ” I proceed to the house of Prince 
 Manga, where I prepare for my visit to King Bell. 
 My Knight Templar accouterments are resplendent 
 with the rays of the tropical sun, and in striking 
 contrast with the surroundings. After completing 
 my personal adornment, I proceed in company with 
 Prince Manga to the “ court” of King Bell. The 
 introduction to King Bell takes place in the “guest 
 chamber ” ot his private apartments, where I am 
 
CAPE LOPEZ GLRL. PRINCE MANGA BELL AND FAVORITE WIVES. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 177 
 
 offered and drink a bottle of ginger ale, in token 
 of mutual respect and good will. A brief conver- 
 sation follows, after which we proceed to the palaver 
 house, where an extended interview takes place in 
 the presence of a large number of the head men of 
 the king. 
 
 King Bell is about six feet high, weighs about 
 two hundred and eighty pounds, has keen eyes, in- 
 telligent countenance, is polite in manner, speaks 
 fair English, has a good memory, and impresses 
 one as being kindly disposed. He has a royal 
 mien, and is evidently connected with a long line 
 of African kings. His complexion is of a rich cop- 
 per color, which is the characteristic hue of his 
 people. In answer to the inquiry why his country 
 was not under British influence instead of Ger- 
 man, lie replies that two messages had been sent to 
 the Queen of England to take charge of their coun- 
 try; that they had waited two years for an answer 
 to the first one, and nine years for an answer to the 
 second, and in both cases their waiting proved in 
 vain. It was then that they accepted a German 
 Protectorate, in order to put an end to their inter- 
 tribal wars. I call his attention to the oft-repeated 
 assertion of Europeans that his people were great 
 thieves, which provokes the solemn reply : “Until 
 white men brought my people clothes with pock- 
 ets, they had nothing to hide anything in. The 
 matted bunch of palm leaves or the simple loin 
 cloth, which had been their only dress from time im- 
 memorial, did not afford concealment for any ob- 
 12 
 
178 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ject.” I then repeat to him what I had said in 
 substance to Prince Manga in regard to the rum 
 traffic. I refer to the fate of the North American 
 Indians, and the withering effect of “tire water” 
 upon them. I tell him that in my opinion the Eu- 
 ropeans want to get possession of the lands of his 
 people, and that they are deluging the country with 
 liquid poison, under the name of gin, in order to 
 weaken and decimate them. Turning from me to 
 his head men, who are surrounding him, he appar- 
 ently explains to them what I have just said in re- 
 gard to the gin traffic, and the effect is the mani- 
 festation of general surprise. I urge him to exhort 
 his people to at once discontinue the use of gin and 
 all alcoholic stimulants. 
 
 He has knowledge that slavery existed in Amer- 
 ica many years, and recollects the last Portuguese 
 slave ship that visited his country, his father at the 
 time being king. Ilealso recollects a message sent 
 to his father from England, imploring him to aban- 
 don the slave trade. Iving Bell listens to me 
 throughout with the closest attention, though he 
 says but little, seemingly being content to briefly 
 answer such questions as I address to him. He 
 has many head men, plenty of slaves, and is said to 
 have eighty wives. I explain to him, as far as is per- 
 missible, the objects of Knight Templarism ; and 
 he is greatly impressed when I tell him that the 
 sword is an emblem of peace, and not of warfare, 
 and that it is a token of good will toward all men. 
 
 At the close of the interview I repair to the shade 
 
SMITH AND HIS ADOPTED FAMILY OF DWALLA CHILDKi 
 

 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 181 
 
 of a mangrove tree, and surround myself with a 
 number of native children, and have a photograph 
 taken. I try in vain to have King Bell sit for a 
 photo. 
 
 The houses at Bell Town are of parallelogram 
 shape, and made of bamboo. Borne of them are 
 quite long, one being 175 feet by actual measure- 
 ment, and they are well constructed. The streets 
 are broad and regular, and the place is enriched and 
 adorned with every kind of tropical fruit. Of the 
 fruits I recollect the following: Oranges, limes, 
 bananas, cocoanuts, papaws, mangoes, pineapples, 
 alligator pears, and guaves. A civilized people, 
 with proper appliances, could make it a veritable 
 Eden. 
 
 To give an idea of the size of some of the native 
 war canoes, one which I measure is 75 feet long 
 and 6 spans wide, hewn out of the trunk of a sin- 
 gle tree. The Dwalla people are very expert in 
 canoe-making, and are noted for their rapid and 
 regular movement in paddling. They are also 
 skillful in making benches, or stools, carved out of 
 a single block of wood, which on the average are 
 7 inches broad, 9 inches high, and 16 inches long. 
 I am in possession of two of these, one being a 
 present from King Bell. They also make unique 
 and attractive bird cages. In the use of the Afri- 
 can telephone they are perhaps unexcelled by any 
 tribe in the “Dark Continent.” The formation 
 and use of this instrument, one of which I possess, 
 is thus described : 
 
182 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Telephonic communication is by no means one of the new 
 things under the sun— especially under the tropical Congo sun 
 — for the. various tribes dwelling on the banks of the Congo, 
 both on the upper and lower river, have for ages had a very 
 complete system of telegraphing by sound, or telephoning, as 
 it is called. They are perfectly able to communicate in this 
 way any word or sentence ; anything, in fact, which they are 
 able to speak themselves they can transmit to towns a long 
 distance off, but which are within hearing distance. 
 
 This communication is effected by means of a kind of drum, 
 which is made of very hard wood, hollow throughout, and va- 
 rying in thickness, so that when struck from the inside as 
 many as four different tones or sounds can be produced. 
 
 The operator holds in each hand a drumstick, and by vary- 
 ing the intervals between the beats upon the different toned 
 sides of the drum an almost infinite variety of signals can be 
 conveyed to the ear. Usually the natives take this drum down 
 to the water’s edge, as they know by practical experience that 
 sound travels much farther over water surface than over land. 
 The town is first “called,’ and when reply is made, the mes- 
 sage to be conveyed is beaten out syllable by syllable. But its 
 uses are by no means confined to communication with neigh- 
 boring towns, but far more frequently it is employed for local 
 purposes. For instance, the drum will suddenly sound out the 
 name of some individual who belongs to the same town, and 
 who is perhaps in the forest hard by or at the mission station ; 
 and he is told that his chief wants to speak to him, or his wife 
 may intimate that dinner is quite ready, or a trusting friend 
 will publicly advise him that he will be very glad of repayment 
 of the fifty brass rods borrowed in the more or less remote past; 
 and so on. 
 
 In the Cataract Region, in towns away from the river, the 
 natives communicate with other towns chiefly at night, when 
 everything is so still and quiet that the cry of the jackal or the 
 hooting of the owl can be heard many miles away. 
 
 At Palabala they carry the drum to the side of the bill when 
 they wish to send a message to Nokki, a town on a neighboring 
 hill, but which is six to seven miles off as the crow flies. After 
 
THE AFRICAN TELEPHONE. 
 
 A CAMEROONS STOOL. 
 
 

 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 185 
 
 some amount of beating, in a peculiar, irregular way, they pause, 
 and the sound of an answering drum atNokki can be distinctly, 
 though faintly, heard. Then some words or part of message is 
 telephoned, and the answering signal “all right” is given after 
 each pause. Then the Palabala drum will stop, and the Nok- 
 ki drum beat out some reply, to which the responses will be 
 given in due order. 
 
 These drums are especially valuable in time of dispute or 
 war, for an international question can be argued under the very 
 best possible conditions, when every one is calm, and the wit 
 and wisdom of each town fully available to assist negotiations. 
 In case of an attack being intended upon a neighboring town, 
 due notice would be given, as a matter of course, by means of 
 the drum, and the time of the day (or position of the sun) duly 
 notified when the attack might be expected. 
 
 By a process of tattooing the Dwalla women ren- 
 der their persons very unattractive. 
 
 I now record the circumstance of a revolt which 
 took place in Cameroons Town in 1898. December 
 15 of that year Acting Governor Leist ordered the 
 wives of some of the Dahomey soldiers, who were 
 stationed there at that time, to cut grass, which 
 after some remonstrance they did ; but, failing to 
 cut it exactly as he had instructed them, he had 
 them flogged, an act which greatly incensed their 
 husbands — so much so that they resolved to retal- 
 iate. About 6.30 p. m. of the same day the ag- 
 grieved soldiers instituted a revolt. They seized 
 the arsenal, surrounded the government house, and 
 tired on the officials while they were at dinner, with 
 the result that one of the officials was killed. USTearly 
 all the Europeans took refuge on the British steam- 
 ship “Benguela,” which was then in the river near 
 thetown. The revolt came to an end on the 23d, with 
 
186 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 great, disaster to the revolters, many of whoni'were 
 cruelly tortured and then hanged. The revolt was 
 subdued by the aid of a German warship, which 
 made its appearance on the 18th. At the time of 
 the revolt the entire soldiery consisted of the Vey 
 and Dahomey peoples. None of the Veys took 
 part in the revolt, and only a part of the Dahomey s. 
 I he Dwalla people took no part in it, and yet their 
 village (Bell Town) was burned by order of the au- 
 thorities. King Bell feels greatly aggrieved over 
 the burning of his house, as it contained many val- 
 uables, all of which were consumed. Acting Gov- 
 ernor Deist, who is reported to be a veritable beast, 
 was recalled, and is now in Germany, said to be 
 waiting trial for abuse of authority. 
 
 Facilities for the secular and religious instruction 
 of the natives are very limited. There is only one 
 English Mission (Baptist), conducted by a native 
 preacher, formerly connected with the Baptist Mis- 
 sion in Victoria. Stopping time, 4 days and 40 
 minutes. 
 
 October 3, 6 a. m., Ave steam for Batanga, eighty 
 miles distant, which place is reached at 3.15 p. m. 
 Big Batanga Falls, near the beach, is the chief ob- 
 ject of interest. There are tAvo missions — German 
 Catholic and Presbyterian. The Catholic Mission 
 embraces industrial training, but the Presbyterian 
 does not. The principal article of trade is rubber. 
 There are three native chiefs — Bobala, Modala,and 
 William. The former is a representative of the 
 German Government, Batanga being in German 
 
BIG BATANGA FALLS (GERMAN). 
 

 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 189 
 
 territory. Back of Big Batanga Falls there is an 
 imposing elevation, called “Elephant Mountain.” 
 The Presbyterian Mission is supported by the 
 American Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions, 
 and is one of a chain of missions stretching from 
 Batanga to Gaboon. There are fourteen white mis- 
 sionaries and teachers connected with the work — 
 seven males and seven females. The health of the 
 place is considered fairly good, and I am informed 
 that only one death had occurred in live years, 
 which was caused mainly by neglect. Rev. A. 
 Ford is treasurer of the local Presbytery, and C. J. 
 Baffin, M. D., is physician in charge. I am in- 
 formed by Dr. Baffin that the chiefs Bobala and 
 Modala have constructed a building for hospital 
 purposes, capable of containing thirty-two beds. 
 Bobala is chief of Bopuka, and Modala is chief of 
 Bawoka. According to the statement of Dr. Baf- 
 fin, Modala has ordered a $2,500 house from En- 
 gland. 
 
 The Batanga people, though not always living 
 on the seaboard, have become noted canoemen. 
 They have two kinds of canoes. One is made of 
 cork wood and very light, and intended only for 
 one person. The other is made of hard wood, and 
 is smooth and tapering at both ends, but is large 
 enough to carry thirty or forty people. The smaller 
 canoe does not weigh more than twenty or thirty 
 pounds, and is too narrow for an ordinarily sized 
 person to be seated in. A saddle, or bridge, which 
 is used as a seat, is laid across the middle not more 
 
190 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 than two inches wide, and somewhat higher than 
 the sides of the canoe. They use very light pad- 
 dles, and scud over the roughest sea without dan- 
 ger and with almost incredible velocity. They pro- 
 pel chiefly with the left hand, use one foot as a 
 balance, which they continually keep in the water, 
 and when necessary use the right hand to bail out 
 water ; and when they would rest their arms, one leg 
 is thrown out on either side of the canoe, and it is 
 propelled almost as fast with their feet as with the 
 paddle. When tired of running around the ship a 
 man will climb up her side with one hand, and 
 haul up his canoe with the other. When they ap- 
 proach a ship from the beach they look somewhat 
 like a flock of blackbirds. I weigh one of their ca- 
 noes, and it weighs twenty-seven pounds. 
 
 There are three trading places at this point. 
 Stopping time, 14 hours and 5 minutes. Ther- 
 mometer, 82° at sea. 
 
 October 4, 10 a. m., we weigh anchor for Batta, 
 seventy miles distant. This is disputed territory, 
 being claimed by both the French and Spanish. 
 There are English and German trading houses, one 
 mission (Catholic), which has the industrial feature 
 connected with it. The beach is very pretty, and 
 the trading houses are well constructed and invit- 
 ing in appearance. A native is brought aboard our 
 ship with a spearhead in his neck, seemingly in 
 very great distress. He is accompanied by a Eu- 
 ropean, who seems deeply concerned about him, 
 and who arranges' with' the ship’s surgeon to re- 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 191 
 
 move the spearhead. The operation is watched 
 with great interest by all on hoard. The native is 
 put under the influence of ether, and the spearhead 
 is successfully removed. The question arises as to 
 the wisdom of taking the native hack to the beach 
 that night, some thinking such a move might be 
 dangerous. The European replies that he had to be 
 taken hack, whatever the consequences might be ; 
 for if they should fail to take him back, his friends 
 would claim that he had died, and would instantly 
 set upon the individual who had made the assault 
 upon him, and subject him to torture. I inquire of 
 the European why they allow such practices to he 
 carried on, and he states that they cannot help 
 themselves. I further ask him what will he the 
 penalty imposed, and he replies that the fingers on 
 the hands of the assailant will he broken, so that 
 he can no longer handle a spear. At this place I 
 see another Albino. Stopping tirne, 5 hours and 
 15 minutes. 
 
 At 10.30 p. m. we weigh anchor for Eloby. 
 
 October 5, en route to Eloby, we pass the beauti- 
 ful island of Corisco. It indeed presents a charm- 
 ing aspect. It is stated that no Europeans dwell 
 there. At one time there was a Presbyterian Mis- 
 sion located there, conducted by white missionaries; 
 but a scandalous report having arisen concerning 
 the conduct of one of them, the natives asked for 
 their removal. Since then mission work has been 
 conducted by a civilized native from Cape St. 
 John, 
 
192 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 At 9.40 a. m. we drop anchor at Eloby. The 
 Mooney River lies to the left; it is in Spanish terri- 
 tory. There is a Catholic Mission and school. 
 The natives are known as the Benga people. The 
 population of the main island is said to be less than 
 two thousand, while that of the whole tribe would 
 scarcely exceed eight thousand. There is, howev- 
 er, twice as large a population around the bay 
 and up the river who speak the Benga language, 
 and differ very slightly as a people. The Benga 
 people look down on those as inferior people, and 
 do not hesitate to bestow upon them the name ot 
 “ bushmen.” In point of civilization the Corisco 
 people are decidedly in advance of the Dwalla or 
 Benaka tribes, but behind the Mpongwes in point 
 of cultivated manners. In physical characteris- 
 tics they are more like the Dwalla people than the 
 Gaboon people, bnt their language shows a strong- 
 er affinity for the Balcele than for either of the oth- 
 ers. They are generally very black, tall and some- 
 what ill-formed, and have great power of endurance. 
 In former years they were constantly embroiled in 
 petty fends among themselves. There are but few 
 adults at the present day who cannot show scars 
 that they have received in drunken frays. Of late 
 years, however, there has been a marked improve- 
 ment in their general character and deportment. 
 The island was named Corisco by the Spanish on 
 account of the heavy lightning and thunder which 
 prevail here at certain seasons. I make the ac- 
 quaintance of an educated native, named Joseph R. 
 
GOVERNMENT BUILDING, ELOBY ISLAND. 
 

 
 
 I 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 195 
 
 Anquile, who is serving as Government Interpre- 
 ter. Stopping time, 4 hours and 35 minutes. 
 
 At 11.30 a. m. we leave for Ukaka, four miles 
 distant. There is one neat and attractive trading 
 place. A stranded steamcraft lies rotting on the 
 beach. The natives belong to the Mpongwe tribe, 
 who at one time dwelt in the hinterland, but grad- 
 ually forced their way to the beach, and became 
 mingled with the maritime tribes. The territory is 
 in dispute between the French and German. Stop- 
 ping time, 2 hours. 
 
 At 5.20 p. M. we weigh anchor for Gaboon. 
 
 October 6, 8.30 a. m., we drop anchor at Gaboon, 
 which is the seat of the Colonial Government for 
 the French Possession known as the Gaboon coun- 
 try. The Government buildings are the most im- 
 posing and costly which I have yet seen. There 
 are two hospitals — one stationary, and the other 
 floating, being anchored in the river. There are 
 many civilizing agencies planted at this place. The 
 streets are highly improved, and all ravines or la- 
 goons in or adjacent to the town are spanned by 
 iron bridges. There is a light tramway of two or 
 three miles’ length, which is used for transporting 
 stones from quarries near by, to be used in the con- 
 struction of the Government pier, which is rapidly 
 reaching completion, and which it is said will be 
 one of the best of its kind to be found anywhere on 
 the West and Southwest Coast. There is a large, 
 airy, and well-constructed machine shop, tilled with 
 machinery of various kinds and for various pur- 
 
196 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 poses. It is in charge of a Frenchman, who has na- 
 tives and French -Africans 'as assistants. By French - 
 African is meant the issue of a French father and 
 an African woman. A French-African is in charge 
 of the engine. The place enjoys the convenience of 
 a telephone system, which connects all the factories 
 and the Government buildings, and the system is 
 as perfect and efficient as is to be found in any Eu- 
 ropean center. The Colony is connected with 
 France by cable, and the rate per word is the low- 
 est of any place on the West and Southwest Coast. 
 There are two missions — Presbyterian and French- 
 Catholic. The former was founded by the Amer- 
 ican Baptist Foreign Missionary Society in 1842, 
 and the Presbyterians assumed control in 1870. 
 The Presbyterian Mission has large and well-im- 
 proved grounds located on an elevation. The 
 equipment consists of a well-constructed and ap- 
 pointed residence for the missionaries, a school- 
 house, and a church. The school, which is now in 
 charge of a Swede, has both male and female stu- 
 dents. The church has sixty communicants, and the 
 school has twenty boarding pupils and twenty day 
 pupils. The cost of the mission house, which con- 
 tains eight rooms, was $1,500. The school house, 
 which is large enough to accommodate one hundred 
 pupils, and which has a galvanized iron roof, cost 
 $350. The mission house has a bamboo roof. The 
 difference in cost between a galvanized iron roof and 
 a bamboo roof is about $200. This Mission is now 
 greatly inconvenienced by an edict recently issued 
 
CONGO GIRL. GABOON WOMEN. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 199 
 
 by the French Government, interdicting the teach- 
 ing of any other language in the schools except 
 that of the French. On account of this edict the 
 Presbyterian Mission, located on the Ogowe River, 
 has been placed under the control of French Prot- 
 estants. The European population numbers 200, 
 of whom 175 are males and 25 females, 5 of whom 
 are said to be dissolute characters, and never appear 
 in public. Libreville, a native name for the town of 
 Gaboon, has a population of about 3,000. The native 
 women of this place are noted far and near for their 
 regular features, long hair, and smooth skin. They 
 are said to he the handsomest women on the W est and 
 Southwest Coast. They are said to be very licen- 
 tious, however, and are eagerly sought for by traders 
 all along the Southwest Coast. Most of the adult 
 population speak either the English or French lan- 
 guage with tolerable ease. At one time an Amer- 
 ican Consul was stationed at Libre ville. Years ago 
 two natives of great prominence and influence re- 
 sided here — one known among the English and 
 Americans by the name of Xing William, and by 
 the French as King Bennie ; the other, the princi- 
 pal trader among King Glass’ people, is known by 
 the name of Toka. Both of them were men of re- 
 markable personal appearance, and very close ob- 
 servers of men and things. Bennie was a man of 
 medium stature, with a compact and well-formed 
 frame, and of great muscular power. Ilis complex- 
 ion was very black, and was rendered more remark- 
 able by a snow-white beard, with which the lower 
 
Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 i!00 
 
 part of his face was covered. Toka was about the 
 same size and complexion, but with features more 
 thoroughly African than the generality of his na- 
 tive tribe. He had, nevertheless, a very remarka- 
 ble and intelligent countenance, strongly marked 
 with a deep vein of natural humor which pervaded 
 his whole composition. 
 
 When the French Government proposed to form 
 a naval settlement on the Gaboon, some years ago, 
 these two men were the most prominent and influ- 
 ential in the country, and it was important in all 
 things that their consent and co-operation should 
 be secured. 
 
 Hennie had always been a favorite with the 
 French, while Toka was disliked for his overpar- 
 tiality to the English. The former spoke the 
 French language with great facility, and the latter 
 the English language ; and hence their respective 
 partisanship. Toka saw that the French were de- 
 termined to have a station, whether the people 
 were willing or not. Perhaps he was told so, 
 though his native sagacity would have led him to 
 have thought so. Toka had no partiality for the 
 French, had never received any favors at their 
 hands, could not speak their language, and there- 
 fore had no motive in consenting to their getting a 
 foothold in the country ; hence he determined to 
 take no steps that would give the French a sem- 
 blance of a claim to the country, or that would em- 
 barrass the English in case they sought to resent it. 
 The stand taken by Toka commended him to the 
 

TELEGRAPH BUILDING, GABOON. 
 
 MRS. BARBOUR’S HOUSE, FERNANDO PQ. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 203 
 
 respect of the French, though they were not a lit- 
 tle annoyed at his position. Every kind of motive 
 was now brought to bear upon him to influence 
 him, but utterly failed to produce any other effect 
 than to provoke his obstinacy. He did not even 
 submit until the alternative of perpetual exile from 
 his family and country was before him. To his 
 purpose he adhered until he was the last and only 
 man in the country who maintained an appearance 
 or show of opposition. How cordial his submission 
 finally was can be seen from the remark of one of 
 his countrymen, who said that “ Toka was here- 
 after to love the French, except out of his heart.” 
 
 The natives belong to the great Mpongwe fami- 
 ly, and are noted for the smoothness and polish 
 which they evince in their intercourse with the 
 white man. They are kind, sociable, and hospita- 
 ble in a high degree, but very ready to take any 
 and every advantage that they possibly can in trade. 
 The love of trade is their ruling passion, and they 
 evince a capacity for carrying it on that is utterly 
 surprising to educated men. 
 
 Opposite Libreville, on the north side of the Ga- 
 boon River, is a settlement known as King Will- 
 iam’s side. This settlement does not recognize the 
 authority of the French, and has as its ruler Adan- 
 dee, one of the surviving sons of King William, 
 previously referred to. Adandee was educated in 
 France, and is said to possess a highly intelligent 
 mind. Some years ago he became involved in a dis- 
 pute with the F rench, and was charged with treason- 
 
204 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 able designs, for which lie was ordered to be ban- 
 ished to the Senegal country ; but during his trans- 
 it he managed to escape, and returned to his pre- 
 vious residence, where he lias remained ever since. 
 He has repeatedly declined amnesty offered him by 
 the French, and never visits Libreville or any part 
 of the south side of the Gaboon River. He is re- 
 ported as being peaceable and courteous. He evi- 
 dently inherits the sturdy character of his father, 
 and is not disposed to yield his ancient rights, nor 
 to compromise the interests of his people by subor- 
 dinating himself to the French. 
 
 It was on King William’s side that Professor 
 Garner started on his journey to Gorilla Land, for 
 the purpose of studying the language of the man- 
 apes. There are a great many amusing stories 
 told regarding Professor Garner’s movements. It 
 is said that he pawned his steel cage at Libreville, 
 and that he did no more than merely make a show 
 of effort to carry out his original designs. 
 
 . There is a neatly laid out burial ground connect- 
 ed with the Presbyterian Mission, in which ten 
 missionaries ai'e interred, including the wife and 
 child of Dr. Nassau, who has been' for many years 
 in charge of the Mission. The graves of all the 
 missionaries have headstones or monuments. One 
 of the missionaries buried here is a Liberian — Mrs. 
 Charity L. Menkel, born November 8, 1843, at Dan- 
 ville, Ky. 
 
 At 4 p. M. we weigh anchor for N’gove, 180 miles 
 distant. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 205 
 
 October 7, at sea, en route to N’gove, which point 
 is reached at 4 r. M. 
 
 The language of the natives of this place has a 
 very peculiar guttural sound, unlike that of any of 
 the natives with whom I have thus far come in 
 contact. There are but two trading places at this 
 point. We discharge some cargo. Stopping time, 
 1 hour and 5 minutes. Thermometer, 80° at sea. 
 
 October 8, 7.45 a. m, we drop anchor at Setta 
 Cama, situate near a river of the same name. There 
 are four trading places at this point. Here one of 
 the Liverpool passengers disembarks. For the first 
 time I see a Portuguese-African, by which I mean 
 the issue of a Portuguese father and an African 
 mother. Stopping time, 6 hours and 50 minutes. 
 Thermometer, 80° at sea. 
 
 At 9.30 a. M. we weigh anchor for Loanga. At 
 5.40 p. m. we pass Nyanga, where there are two trad- 
 ing houses. 
 
 October 9, 8 a. m., we drop anchor at Loanga, an 
 important point in the French territory on the 
 Southwest Coast. The region is high and undulat- 
 ing, and is the coast terminus for caravans to the 
 French territory in the Upper Congo region, and 
 is the shortest route to that section from any point 
 on the Southwest Coast. The natives here are 
 quite skillful in the making of mats and baskets. 
 There is one Mission, in charge of French Catho- 
 lics. It is said to be doing a most excellent work 
 in training the native youth in various mechanical 
 pursuits. There is a printing office connected with 
 
206 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 the Mission, which does all the work for the Colo- 
 nial authorities. The Government buildings, trad- 
 ing places, and in fact all the buildings of European 
 architectu re and structure, are attractive. Mr. W al- 
 tlier, a German missionary who embarked at Vic- 
 toria, on a trip for his health to Loanda and return, 
 unfortunately got left, at this place. Stopping time, 
 6 hours and 40 minutes. 
 
 At 1 p. m. we steam for Quillo, five miles distant, 
 where we remain all night. There is a French 
 Catholic Mission at this place. Thermometer 81° 
 at anchor. Stopping time, 20 hours and 35 min- 
 utes. 
 
 October 10, 3 p. m., we weigh anchor for Black 
 Point, fifteen miles distant. There is one trading- 
 house, the owner of which is a Portuguese- African. 
 This man is in high repute, and is said to have a 
 most excellent family, his wife being a native of 
 Loando. Mr. Waltlier, who got left at Loango, 
 overtook us at this place. This point is mentioned 
 by Mr. Stanley in the second volume of his “ Congo 
 and the Founding of the Free State.” Stopping- 
 time, 1 hour and 5 minutes. AVe steam a short dis- 
 tance from this place, and anchor all night. Ther- 
 mometer, 81°. 
 
 October 11, 8 a. m., we drop anchor at Cabenda, 
 the seat of Colonial Government of the Portuguese 
 territory ot the same name. It is quite a picturesque 
 place, with many well-constructed and attractive 
 buildings. There is a barracks, in which native 
 soldiers are quartered. The need of these soldiers 
 
’ART VIEW OP CABENDA (PORTUGUESE). 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 209 
 
 is not made apparent to me. There are twenty Si- 
 erra Leone mechanics at work on Government 
 buildings. Wages, $1 per day. One of the num- 
 ber (Isaiah B. Wilson by name) knew Bishop H. 
 M. Turner and Rev. Geda, of the African Method- 
 ist Episcopal Church, U. S. A., whom he met when 
 they were in Sierra Leone, en route to Monrovia, 
 Liberia, in 1891. There are English and Dutch 
 trading houses at this place. Stopping time, 9 
 hours. 
 
 At 4.25 P. M. we Aveigli anchor for the Congo 
 River. Thermometer, 78° at anchor in CabendaBay. 
 
 October 12, 7.10 a. m., we arrive at Banana Point, 
 mouth of the Congo, and, after taking on a pilot, 
 proceed to Mali 11a, a trading place on the right 
 bank of the river distant about twenty- one miles, 
 where we take on a large lot of palm oil and ker- 
 nels. Anchor here all night. Thermometer, 78°. 
 
 October B5, on leaving Malilla early in the morn- 
 ing, we run on a bank near by, where we remain 
 until 1 p. m. There is general rejoicing when we 
 get off. At Malilla a well-dressed Portuguese- 
 African (Valeriano Fernandes by name) embarks 
 as a first-class passenger from Malilla to Noqui. 
 He is very reserved and affable in his manners, and, 
 judging from his general conduct and movements, 
 is evidently a person of some culture. He cannot 
 speak a word of English. Several bolls of wild 
 cotton are obtained at Malilla. We are engaged 
 6 hours and 40 minutes in receiving cargo. Ther- 
 mometer, 80°. 
 
 14 
 
210 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 October 14, 8.05 a. m., we drop anchor at Boma, 
 the capital of the Congo Free State. As it is Sun- 
 day, we do not discharge any cargo, but land seven- 
 ty Mohammedans, whom we brought from Lagos 
 for the purpose of entering the military service of 
 the Congo Free State. 
 
 At 11 a. m. we weigh anchor for Binda, twenty- 
 live miles distant, where we take on a large lot of 
 cargo and remain all night. The place is of no 
 special importance, and has only one trading house. 
 Stopping time, 19 hours and 5 minutes. Ther- 
 mometer, 80° at 12 m., and 85° at 4 p. m. 
 
 October 15, 8.15 a. m., we steam for Noqui, twen- 
 ty miles distant, which place we reach at 11 a. m. 
 It is in Portuguese territory, and is evidently the 
 emporium of considerable trade. The trading 
 houses are very inviting, and the grounds surround- 
 ing them are well kept and made pleasing to the 
 eye by the growth of a variety of fruit trees and 
 flowers. There is one English trading house; the 
 rest are Portuguese. We have considerable cargo 
 to discharge here, and our stopping time is 1 day, 
 18 hours, and 30 minutes. Thermometer on the 
 15th, 80° at 4 p. m. October 16, while still at jSTo- 
 qui, the thermometer was 82° at 12 m., and 86° at 
 4 P. M. 
 
 October 17, 5.40 a. m., we weigh anchor for Ma- 
 tadi, seven and one-half miles distant, which place 
 we reach at 7.30 a. m. There is a veritable tropical 
 rain from 9 a. m. to 12 m. Matadi is nearly oppo- 
 site Vivi, which was the base of operations for Mr. 
 
NOQUI, CONGO (PORTUGUESE) 
 
213 
 
 Personal Memoranda. 
 
 Stanley’s exploration of the Congo in 1879. It is 
 the initial point of the Congo Rail road, which is 
 completed and in running order for about thirty- 
 live miles. There is nothing pleasing in the envi- 
 ronments of the place. The region surrounding it 
 is made up of a series of rocky mounds, and there 
 is scarcely any sign of vegetable life. The fare on 
 the Congo Railroad, for the thirty-live miles of 
 its completion, is $10. The engineers, firemen, and 
 all the train hands are natives. Here for the first 
 time in the “Dark Continent” I hear the shrill 
 sound of the whistle of the locomotive, which 
 awakes within me an almost indescribable feeling-. 
 It has just been one month and twelve days since I 
 heard the sound of the whistle of a locomotive — a 
 sound which has been familiar to my ears for many 
 years. To bear its shrill notes in Africa, and on the 
 banks of the mighty Congo, isindeed interesting and 
 startling. I watch the departure and- arrival of the 
 trains with considerable interest, and my mind flies 
 off on a tangent, so to speak, into philosophizing on 
 the possibilities of the future of Africa. Here, as 
 nowhere else during my voyage thus far, do I hear 
 the busy hum of revolving machinery, and see the 
 bright flames of the heated furnace, and hear the 
 stroke of the hammer beating out and shaping the 
 red-hot iron. It is a wonderfully interesting sight. 
 The railroad plant is quite extensive. There is a 
 good building in which the railroad offices are lo- 
 cated, a machine shop, a round house, and a freight 
 shed — all the property of the Congo Railroad Com- 
 
214 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 pany, whose chief officers are at Brussels, Belgium. 
 Goods for the Upper Congo country are brought to 
 this point by ocean steamers, where they are un- 
 loaded and transferred to the railroad, which car- 
 ries them to the point of its completion, where they 
 are made up into man loads and transported by 
 carriers to their destination. Matadi is also quite 
 a distributing point for supplies to mission stations 
 in the Upper Congo. It is a supply depot for the 
 American Baptist Missionary Union, the Bilola 
 Congo Mission Society, the Swedish Mission, the 
 International Missionary Alliance, of ISTevv York, 
 the Southern Presbyterian Missionary Society 
 (American). Bishop Taylor’s missionaries on the 
 Upper Congo also receive at this place what few 
 supplies are sent to them. There are quite a num- 
 ber of missionaries living at Matadi, and there is 
 a great deal of money invested in missionary dwell- 
 ings and storehouses. I confess my inability to 
 discern just why there should be so many mission- 
 aries living here, and why there has been such a large 
 outlay of money for the erection of dwellings, etc., 
 when there are no natives in that immediate local- 
 ity, or in places adjacent thereto, to form the sub- 
 jects of missionary efforts. The country is so bar- 
 ren and sterile as to render it wholly undesirable 
 for the settlement of natives. It will be many a 
 year before Matadi or the regions thereabout prove 
 a fruitful field for missionary endeavor. Quite a 
 number of missionaries visit our ship looking after 
 their cargo ; among them Rev. J. Pinnock, an intel- 
 
MATADI, CONGO (BELGIAN). 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 217 
 
 ligent native from Victoria, who is connected with 
 the English Baptist Missionary Society. A Mr. Hall, 
 one of the missionaries of the International Mission- 
 ary Alliance, embarked here, en route to his home 
 in the State of Maine. I was defeated in my inten- 
 tion to go to Vivi, for the purpose of visiting the 
 grave of Rev. Mr. Walruth, who went there a few 
 years ago from Chicago, 111., as one of Bishop Tay- 
 lor’s missionaries. I met his mother and one of 
 his sisters in Chicago in 1893, and told them that 
 I anticipated visiting the Congo, and should prob- 
 ably go as far as Vivi ; and if so, that I would search 
 out the grave of their son and brother. The ther- 
 mometer on this date is 80° on board ship, and on 
 the 18fh it is 82.50° on board ship, with weather 
 fair. Stopping time is 1 day, 7 hours, and 35 min- 
 utes. 
 
 October 18, 2.35 p. M., we weigh anchor for Boma, 
 which place is reached at 6.50 p. m. In nearing 
 Boma, we run against a high bank, and nearly 
 crush a steam launch which foolishly tries to cross 
 our bow, despite the warnings of the pilot. Our 
 ship careens heavily to one side, and the passengers 
 and the crew are all more or less excited. Fortu- 
 nately the bank is formed of soft deposit, and we 
 slide off without any difficulty, and drop anchor on 
 the opposite side, near an English trading place ad- 
 jacent to Boma, where we remain until the 20th, 
 discharging and receiving cargo. Thermometer, 
 80° on board ship. 
 
 October 19 I go ashore, and spend considerable 
 
218 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 time in viewing the place and its environments. 
 Our ship is anchored about a mile and a half east 
 of the town. En route from the ship to the town I 
 pass by one of those African trees famous for their 
 short but exceedingly thick bodies. It is said that 
 it takes the outstretched arms of fourteen men to 
 encircle the one that I stop at for a brief time, be- 
 ing attracted by its gigantic size. It yields a large, 
 elongated fruit, called “ monkey fruit.” The bark 
 is very thick, and I notice that quite a number of 
 persons had taken advantage of the opportunity to 
 carve their names thereon. Among the hundreds 
 of names that I see is that of Rev. S. P. Shephard, 
 a colored man from America, who is laboring as a 
 missionary among the Russia people in the Upper 
 Congo, under the auspices of the Board of Missions 
 of the Southern Presbyterian Church. He has out- 
 stripped many others in the height of the point 
 where he carved his name, and I found myself hu- 
 morously ejaculating, “ Well, old fellow, if you 
 never write your name anywhere else, you have 
 certainly written it here. Bravo ! ” On reaching 
 Boma I start out to inspect the chief objects of in- 
 terest. The principal Government buildings and 
 the dwellings of the chief officials are located on 
 an eminence about two miles from the river bank, 
 and are nestled in a grove and well shaded by the 
 overhanging branches of many stately trees. There 
 is a steam tramway, or light, narrow-gauge rail- 
 road, running from the Government pier on the 
 river bank to the Government quarters. The Gov- 
 
NATIVE CEMETERY, OLD VIVI, CONGO. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 221 
 
 ernor’s residence is a very fine and imposing struct- 
 ure. Adjacent to it, and somewhat surround- 
 ing it, are the picturesque dwellings of the chief 
 officials. On the same plat of ground, which in- 
 cludes many acres, are a number of beautiful resi- 
 dences, the homes of wealthy traders. On my way 
 to the Government grounds I notice quite a number 
 of natives in soldiers’ attire performing manual la- 
 bor in grading elevated spots, so as to get a level 
 for the extension of new avenues. I confess it is 
 not clear to my mind why soldiers should be en- 
 gaged in that kind of service — particularly where 
 there are so many civilians who could be obtained 
 to do the work. I also pass by a public dispensary, 
 around which a large number of natives are gath- 
 ered waiting to be served with medicine. A Congo 
 soldier stands just outside the door, and to me it 
 appears that he is very rudely disposed toward the 
 afflicted people. I notice that at times he enforces 
 his command for order by punching one or two 
 persons with the point of his saber. I visit the 
 Government drug store, or dispensary, which is lo- 
 cated in a different building, within the Govern- 
 ment grounds proper, for the purpose of purchas- 
 ing some quinine and antipyrine. I find the place 
 pretty well stocked with drugs, and in charge 
 of a Belgian chemist who can speak but very little 
 English. He is assisted by a native who can speak 
 English, and who appears to have some intelli- 
 gence. 
 
 On my return to the river bank I stop at a trad- 
 
222 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ing place owned by a Mr. Shann, a native from 
 Sierra Leone. He was formerly chief document 
 clerk in the employ of the Congo Free State. He 
 proved highly efficient in this capacity, and was 
 very careful and painstaking in keeping track of 
 the various documents in his possession, and would 
 not allow any person (not even the Governor) to 
 take a document from his possession without re- 
 ceipting for it. In course of time one or more 
 young Belgians were placed in the document room 
 with him, for the purpose of acquainting themselves 
 with the details of the work. After a time one of 
 them was promoted over Mr. Shanu, an act which 
 the latter regarded as unjust to him. He seriously 
 questioned the fairness of elevating the pupil above 
 his teacher — a fact which he made known to the 
 Governor, and made inquiry as to why it was done. 
 The Governor replied that he could not afford to 
 continue an African as a principal over Europeans 
 — a remark which led Mr. Shanu to tender his res- 
 ignation instanter, much to the chagrin of the Gov- 
 ernor and to the regret of all cognizant of the val- 
 ue of his superior service. During his official con- 
 nection with the Government he was thrifty, so 
 that when he quit the employ of the Government 
 he had means sufficient to enable him to embark in 
 a commercial enterprise. He is the owner of a 
 large and substantial building on the street leading 
 from the river bank to the Government quarters, 
 which is well stocked with a large variety of goods 
 suitable for the African trade. I do not meet him 
 
LANDANA WOMANjAND BROTHERS. CABENDA BOVS. 
 

Personal Memoranda. 
 
 225 
 
 personally, as he is absent in England on business, 
 but I have the pleasure of the acquaintance of his 
 brother, who is in charge at the time that I call. 
 
 I also have the pleasure of the acquaintance of a 
 Mr. G. T. Samuel, a native from Lagos, who is also 
 engaged in trade. When I visit his place of busi- 
 ness I find that he is absent, being detained at home 
 by indisposition. Anxious to see him, I go to his 
 residence, which is located just outside of the Gov- 
 ernment grounds. I find him to be quite intelli- 
 gent and well posted in matters of trade. We con- 
 verse freely about the future of the natives, and I 
 call his attention to the ravages of the rum traffic. 
 He does not speak very hopefully of the probable 
 civilization of the Congo people. I incidentally 
 inquire if it is possible to obtain any curios, but 
 elicit no definite answer. 
 
 October 20, about 8 a. m., I am handed the follow- 
 ing note by one of the ship’s stewards : 
 
 Rev. C. S. Smith, M. D., D. D.: Bojia, October 19, 1894. 
 
 Rev. and Dear Sir : It is impossible to express bow much re- 
 gret I feel for not being able to meet your desire for obtaining 
 curios. 
 
 In spite of my active efforts (and those of Mrs. Samuel), we 
 could procure but few articles originated from various parts of 
 Africa, and which we sincerely ask you to accept as a little 
 present. We will be very happy to hear from you again, either 
 at Liberia or in America, and to be able to continue our corre- 
 spondence in the latter. 
 
 Wishing you bon voyage , I remain, Reverend and Dear Sir, 
 yours very faithfully, G. T. Samuel. 
 
 To this polite note I reply with pleasure, cheer- 
 15 
 
226 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 fully and gratefully accepting the gifts, which are 
 delivered to me per messenger. 
 
 We receive a large number of natives as deck 
 passengers at Boma, for various points on the West 
 Coast. We also receive three European passengers 
 — two first-class, and one second-class. One of the 
 first-class passengers — a Mr. Wm. Hoffman — has 
 just completed a term of three years’ service as 
 Government Interpreter for the Congo Eree State 
 Association, and is en route home to London. He 
 has a large collection of curios, a number of which 
 I purchase. lie was connected with Mr. Stanley 
 from 1887 to 1890. He is well posted on Upper 
 Congo people and affairs. He speaks very highly 
 of some of the tribes with whom he lived for a time 
 — particularly the Aruwimi people. 
 
 The general features of the lower region of the 
 Congo Elver will prove greatly disappointing to 
 one who had not read Mr. Stanley’s description of 
 it. It is, as he has described, barren, uninviting, 
 and sparsely populated. Between Banana Point 
 and Bonn the country is flat and clothed with an 
 intensely greenish verdure — a verdure which, in its 
 deejvgreen aspect, very strongly reminds one of the 
 verdure of Southern Ireland in the spring. The 
 mouth of the river Congo, which is in reality an es- 
 tuary, is about seven and a half miles wide. 
 
 October 21 (Sunday), 6.45 p. m., we drop anchor 
 at St. Paul cle Loando, which is situated on a beau- 
 tiful bay, and is the southern terminus of our voy- 
 age. It is the capital of the Portuguese Province 
 
BANANA POINT. MOUTH OF CONGO RIVER. 
 

 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 229 
 
 of Angola, and was founded in 1468. It is the 
 largest civilized center to be found anywhere on 
 the West and Southwest Coast of Africa. For 
 years it has been a penal colony, to which persons 
 guilty of political and other offenses have been 
 transported. The estimated European population 
 is about 16,000. The city, which is very antiquated 
 in its appearance, is slowly assuming a modern as- 
 pect. Aside from the Government buildings, both 
 civil and military, it can boast of a bank, public 
 parks, two markets, cable and telephone facilities. 
 The donkey, which is to be found in large numbers, 
 is used in place of the horse, its chief use being to 
 draw the carriages of the wealthy. 
 
 A railroad leading to Chinhocha, 200 miles dis- 
 tant, is in successful operation. The intention is to 
 ultimately extend the railroad to Ambraca, a point 
 35 miles beyond Chinhocha. Coffee is the princi- 
 pal article of export. Choice fruits and vegetables 
 grow in abundance, the oranges being unsurpassed 
 in sweetness and flavor. 
 
 But little, if anything, has been done to civilize 
 and elevate the natives. Slavery prevails in and 
 around this place, and the natives are largely held 
 in subjection as beasts of burden. 
 
 The Catholic Religion prevails, and since the 
 abandonment of Bishop Taylor’s Mission in Loan- 
 da there is now no Protestant Mission within the pre- * 
 cincts of that ancient city to compete with Catholi- 
 cism. A somewhat interesting institution of the city 
 isthe jail, many of the inmates of which spend their 
 
230 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 time in making fancy bird cages, as well as other 
 fancy articles, both for use and ornament. 
 
 These articles are exposed in front of the jail, 
 with the price attached to each, and in this way 
 passers-by are enabled to obtain such articles as 
 they may choose without any trouble; it is simply 
 take your choice, and leave the price. Thermom- 
 eter, 80°. Stopping time, 22 hours and 35 minutes. 
 
 October 22, at 1 p. m., to the joy of all, the ship’s 
 prow is turned homeward, and we weigh anchor 
 for Ambriz, which place we reach after seven hours’ 
 steaming, and where we anchor all night. 
 
 On the homeward voyage, in addition to the 
 places stopped at on the outward voyage, calls will 
 be made at Ambriz, Ivinsembo, Musera, Ambrizette, 
 Muculla, Landana, Fouta, Mayumba, Bibindi, and 
 Rio del Ray. My notebook contains the following 
 brief references to these several places: 
 
 October 22, 1 p. m., we weigh anchor for Ambriz, 
 which we reach at 8 p. m. Anchor all night. Thir- 
 ty Europeans reside here. 
 
 October 23, 3 p. m., we weigh anchor for Kin- 
 sembo, which we reach at 4 p. m. There are four- 
 teen Europeans at this place, and no deaths among 
 them in fourteen years. 
 
 October 24, 11 a. m., we drop anchor at Musera. 
 Fourteen Europeans here. Health good. 
 
 * October 25, 9.30 a. m., we weigh anchor for Am- 
 brizette, which place we reach at 12.30 a. m. Twen- 
 ty Europeans here. Only one death among them 
 in twenty years. Here I meet a native from Ambriz, 
 
LOANDA CHIEF. A LOANDA OCTOROON. 
 
Pei's o n a l Me n i o ra 1 1 da . 
 
 238 
 
 by the name of King Augustus Jones, who was ed- 
 ucated at Lisbon. He can speak some English, 
 and I find him to be quite interesting and wide- 
 awake. I give him an engraving of the Bishops of 
 the African Methodist Episcopal Church, and one of 
 President Cheeseman, of Liberia, for which he ex- 
 tends most profuse thanks. 
 
 October 26, 11.30 a. m., we weigh anchor for Mu- 
 culla, which place we reach at 1.30 p. m. Ten Eu- 
 ropeans here. Health good. 
 
 Coffee is the chief article of export from all the 
 territories between Ambriz and Muculla, and par- 
 ticularly of all the Portuguese Possessions in South- 
 west Africa. 
 
 October 27, 6 p. m., we weigh anchor for Cabenda, 
 which place we reach October 28, at 7 a. m. It be- 
 ing Sunday, and the atmospheric conditions being 
 most inviting, a number of the passengers go ashore. 
 Our ship is visited by a large number of residents, 
 and among them five well-dressed Portuguese-Af- 
 ricans. Understand, they are Government officials. 
 A young native from Sierra Leone, by the name of 
 Isaiah B. Wilson, whom I met here on the outward 
 voyage, comes aboard and presents me with two 
 native wooden spoons and a stick of cocoanut wood. 
 He is one of twelve Sierra Leone mechanics who 
 are here constructing Government buildings. 
 
 At luncheon I have an animated discussion with 
 the ship’s captain and some of the passengers re- 
 garding the Sierra Leone and Lagos people. The 
 old charge of thievishness and worthlessness is 
 
234 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 made against them. I defend them, and argue that 
 such aspersions reflect unfavorably on British his- 
 tory and civilization, as the British have had the 
 Sierra Leone people in training for over a hundred 
 years. “It is the policy of the British,” I remark, 
 “ when they And people savages, to try to make 
 them men.” 
 
 At 4.30 p. m. we steam for Landana, where we 
 drop anchor at 7 p. m. We remain two full days, 
 discharging and loading cargo. This is rather a 
 picturesque place. The beach is separated from 
 the mainland by the Chiloango Biver, which is a 
 quiet stream about 120 feet wide at its mouth, and 
 navigable for steam launches about forty miles. An 
 old Portuguese, a former slave-dealer, has lived 
 here for fifty-five years. Another Portuguese has 
 dwelt in the neighborhood thirty-five years. I 
 spend most of our second day’s stay here ashore, 
 in company with the ship's surgeon and one of the 
 passengers. We accept an invitation to take din- 
 ner at an English trading place. After dinner a 
 visit is made to a Catholic Mission, a description of 
 which I have given in Chapter V. While strolling 
 along the beach we gather a number of mango nuts 
 and “ Florida Beans.” 
 
 October 31, 9 a. m., we start from Landana for 
 Fouta, eleven miles distant, which place we reach 
 at 12 M. Two miles south of Fouta is the river 
 Massave, which is the dividing line between the 
 Portuguese and French territories. 
 
 At 4.30 p. m. we depart for Black Point, twenty 
 

PART VIEW OF LANDANA (PORTUGUESE). 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 237 
 
 miles distant, which place we reach at 8 p. m., where 
 we anchor and remain all night. The principal 
 trader at this point is a Portuguese- African, by the 
 name of Antonio Andre Maria, who was educated 
 at Loanda. He has a family consisting of a wife 
 and four children. One of his sons is being edu- 
 cated at Lisbon. He makes me a present of a very 
 tine piece of native woven cloth, a kindness which 
 I reciprocate by giving him some engravings, lith- 
 ographs, etc., of eminent Americans of African de- 
 scent. He is highly commended by the ship’s cap- 
 tain as a most upright and worthy man. 
 
 November 1, 8 a. m., we leave Black Point for 
 Loango, where we drop anchor at 11 a. m. The 
 German steamer “ Gabrate Woerman ” and a small 
 Portuguese schooner are at anchor here. We have 
 quite an amusing, and yet annoying, experience. 
 It will be remembered that this place is in French 
 territory. To-day is a religious holiday, and all the 
 officials, being Catholics, are engaged in celebrat- 
 ing the memory of some patron saint, of that church. 
 Time and time again our ship signals for the health 
 officer, without whose inspection no one can leave 
 the ship ; neither can anyone come aboard. Pro- 
 longed delay tills the captain with a feeling of ex- 
 treme wrath, and when at last the Government of- 
 ficial boards the ship, the captain refuses to either 
 send the ship’s papers ashore or to receive cargo. 
 After much cursing, blustering, etc., an agreement 
 is reached by which the ship can weigh anchor and 
 steam oft without the usual formality of Govern- 
 
238 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 ment consent, which is done in order to avoid fur- 
 ther delay. 
 
 At 3.30 p. m. we steam for Mayumba, forty miles 
 distant. Remain here all night. Meet an Ameri- 
 can by the name of Carl Steckelman, from Colum- 
 bus, Ind. He was at the World’s Fair, in charge 
 of a number of African ivory carvers. He reports 
 that the Bishop Taylor Mission at this place is about 
 to be abandoned, on account of the missionaries re- 
 ceiving inadequate support. 
 
 November 2, 2 p. m., we leave Mayumba for Ny- 
 anga, forty miles distant. 
 
 November 3, 6 a. m., we drop anchor at Sette 
 Cama. Rain all day. 
 
 November 4, 7 a. m., we reach N’gove, where we 
 remain until 6 p. M., and then steam for Cape Lopez. 
 
 November 5, 7.30 a. m., we drop anchor at Cape 
 Lopez, which is in French territory. The French 
 steamer “ Ville de Maelio,” a stern-wheel river 
 boat, and two tugs are in port. The land is low- 
 lying, and the vegetation very dense. 
 
 November 6 we reach Gaboon, where we remain 
 until the afternoon of the 7th. Load a considera- 
 ble quantity of camwood. 
 
 November 8 we call at Eloby, which place we 
 leave at 4 p. M. for Batanga. 
 
 November 9, 8 a. m., we reach Batanga and take 
 on one passenger for Liverpool, and leave imme- 
 diately for Cameroons. 
 
 November 10, 6 a. m., we drop anchor at Came- 
 roons, where we remain until the 12th. 
 
CATHOLIC SCHOOL, ST, ANTONIO, CONGO. 
 

 
Pe rs o n a l Mem oranda. 
 
 241 
 
 November 11 (Sunday) I visit the German war- 
 ship “Hyalene” for the purpose of gratifying the 
 desire to look through a warship. As 1 cannot 
 speak German, I get one of King Bell's sons to 
 accompany me. The ship is manned with seven 
 guns, has a crew of eighty-live persons, whose term 
 of service is one year in the tropics. Here I meet 
 with a rather surprising experience. To make per- 
 manent the results of my observation, I take a note- 
 book and pencil for the purpose of jotting them 
 down. As soon, however, as notebook and pencil 
 are brought into requisi tion, all eyes are fixed upon 
 me, and the marine who was appointed to show me 
 through is peremptorily summoned away; and, 
 while nothing directly is said to me, I soon become 
 convinced that my notebook and pencil have awak- 
 ened the apprehension that I might be a spy. I 
 am of the opinion that it is not the best policy to 
 expose notebooks and pencils on board warships. 
 
 From the warship I proceed to Bell Town, where 
 I spend an hour in conversation with King Bell 
 relative to the necessity of his people working. It 
 is a pleasant, quiet day ; the sun is obscured by 
 clouds, and the atmosphere somewhat murky and 
 depressive. I am led to King Bell’s hut by one of 
 his grandsons, a boy of about thirteen years of age, 
 of a bright copper color, and of an intelligent ex- 
 pression. Upon entering the hut, which has not a 
 single opening for the admission of light, except 
 the door through which I enter, and which only 
 stands partly open, I am impressed with a feeling 
 16 
 
242 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 of silence and solitude that is almost painful. For 
 the first time in my life I am spending a part of the 
 Sabbath in the hut of an African king, the lineal 
 descendant of a long line of African kings, and the 
 ruler of a once powerful people. As he speaks the 
 fire which kindles in his eyes is seen to sparkle, 
 even amid the almost unrelieved darkness that sur- 
 rounds us. I tell him that his young men should 
 learn how to cultivate the soil systematically, and 
 that their hands should he trained to all kinds of 
 Skilled labor, so that they can he as useful in peace 
 as they once were mighty in war. So far as I can, 
 I shall note his reply in his own language : 
 
 “ My people no work at all. We no work way 
 hack no time. We he traders. Before the white 
 man come among us we had noting to buy. When 
 we be grown so big as dat hoy [pointing to his 
 grandson, who was standing inside the door], we 
 wear no cloth ; we go naked all the time. When 
 we be big to marry, we put on one leaf, and dat be 
 all. Dis was de way in my fadder’s time, my grand- 
 fadder’s time, and all my fadder’s time, bo far back 
 as I no understand.” 
 
 On leaving, King Bell presented me with one of 
 the famous Cameroons benches, or stools, carved 
 out of a single block of wood. 
 
 November 12, 1.30 p. m., we steam for Victoria, 
 which place is reached at 8 p. M., and where we an- 
 chor during the night. The passenger list is re- 
 duced by the disembarkation of two — a German 
 missionary and a civilized native. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 243 
 
 November 13, 8.30 a. m., we weigh anchor for 
 Fernando Po, where we arrive at 2 p. m. Go ashore, 
 and visit the native school taught by Rev.Wm. Bar- 
 leycorn. All the instruction is given in the Span- 
 ish language, such being required by the colonial 
 laws. Advantage was taken of an opportunity to 
 inspect the chapel belonging to the Primitive Meth- 
 odist Connection, which had heen recently com- 
 pleted. Am informed that the services attending 
 the opening of the chapel were highly successful, 
 and that the contributions amounted to $224, $50 
 of which was given by Mr. J. E. I). McCoy, a civ- 
 ilized native. Have a brief conversation with Nich- 
 olas Kennedy, a young native ; find him to he quite 
 intelligent, and very solicitous for the improvement 
 and welfare of his country. He states that his peo- 
 ple are greatly oppressed by the Spaniards, and 
 that the relations between the former and the lat- 
 ter are greatly strained. 
 
 November 14, 7 a. m., we reach Bibindi, a deso- 
 late and out-of-the-way place. The captain claims 
 that he expects cargo, but receives none, and gives 
 as the reason that the factory has been left in charge 
 of a black man, who has gone off to secure laborers. 
 This evidently is a ruse to conceal the real object 
 of his visit, viz., to land a trader for a bonus, in 
 addition to the regular passage money, which of 
 course he would quietly pocket. Then it is against 
 the unwritten law of a white man in Africa to 
 leave his possessions in the sole charge of a black 
 man. 
 
244 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Between 4 and 5 o’clock a. m. we are treated to 
 a tropical rain. With all the passengers wondering 
 why the captain caused several hours’ delay by go- 
 ing out of his regular course to stop at Bibindi, the 
 engines of our ship begin to throb once more, and 
 we steam for tbe river Rio del Ray, and enter its 
 mouth at 1 p.m. After an hour of slow and cautious 
 steaming we strike a sandbar, and “ hangup” until 
 the tide rises sufficiently to allow us free movement. 
 
 Within two hours we are freed, and at 5.27 p. m. 
 drop anchor. Where? Ah, “there’s the rub.” 
 For nearly forty-three years, ever since I first nes- 
 tled at my mother’s breast, I have found myself 
 somewhere, but now I find myself at the “tail end 
 of nowhere.” Here we are on the bosom of a broad 
 and sluggish stream, its banks an unbroken line of 
 mangrove swamps, and with no other dwelling 
 places in sight than two factories — a German and a 
 Swede. The ground which supports the pillars on 
 which the buildings rest is “ made ground ” — muck 
 and mire taken from tbe swamps, in the midst of 
 which the buildings set. For the twenty-seven 
 miles which we ascend the river there is not a sign 
 of life, other than the mangrove swamps, anywhere 
 visible — not even a musquito, fly, or gnat. And 
 solitude ! it is like unto the stillness of death itself. 
 We spend the night here, but not in sleep. Surely 
 the traders who have the daring and courage to 
 continue here are entitled to all the wealth which 
 they may secure within the region of this, the “tail 
 end of nowhere.” 
 


 HIGH CASTE ACCRA PEOPLE. ACCRA MEN. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 247 
 
 November 15, 2.26 p. m., we weigh anchor at Rio 
 del Ray, and steam direct for Accra, where we an- 
 chor at 1.30 p. m. 
 
 November 18, 11.25 a. m., we pass the Meridian 
 line, and begin to reckon time west of Greenwich. 
 
 At 1.30 p. m, of the same date we drop anchor at 
 Accra. Many amusing scenes and incidents take 
 place here, when the surfmen whom we took aboard 
 on the outward voyage make preparations to disem- 
 bark. They are all more or less fantastically arrayed 
 in “ home-made ” jackets and trousers, of highly- 
 colored and large-figured calico cloth. Each man 
 made his own suit after his own style and taste. 
 Their faces wear an exceedingly happy smile when 
 they behold their friends making their way from 
 the beach to the ship. Greetings, accompanied 
 with yells and gesticulations, which they alone un- 
 derstand, are freely exchanged. For more than six 
 weeks, early and late, under the blaze of the trop- 
 ical sun, these poor creatures had toiled for the 
 mere pittance of a shilling a day. Still they bore 
 their burdens with seeming content, and did not 
 appear to murmur, even at times when their daily 
 task was increased. 
 
 At 6 p. m. we weigh anchor for the Kroo Coast 
 and Monrovia. The Kroo Coast is a part of the 
 Liberian shore line, and is the home of the toiling 
 Kroo-boy. 
 
 The Kroo-boy is very ready to listen to Christian 
 teaching, but his language is the great hindrance 
 to a communication of the gospel message to him, 
 
248 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 w hile bis own knowledge of tbe English tongue is 
 extremely imperfect. The medium generally em- 
 ployed is a kind of “pidgin English,” which hard- 
 ly answers the purpose of conversing upon the or- 
 dinary affairs of life. Consequently, when the sub- 
 lime truths of the gospel are the subject, its poverty 
 and imperfectness is but too apparent ; nevertheless, 
 some lasting impressions have doubtless been made 
 upon tbe hearts of these poor, simple-minded, hea- 
 then servants, i he missionary, indeed, lias a choice 
 between speaking good English to one of their 
 number, who understands better than his neigh- 
 bois, and can translate into Ivroo, and speaking in 
 broken English, such as the Ivroo-boys them- 
 selves use. The latter is usually preferred, as the 
 interpreter cannot be followed, and cannot be de- 
 tected when he has misapprehended and misrep- 
 resented truth ; but the difficulties are very great 
 either way. 
 
 The following is a specimen of Ivroo-boy English, 
 and is, as will be seen, a paraphrase of the “Prod- 
 igal Son : ” 
 
 “One man live for dem other country ; he catch two boy. 
 
 “ Dem young boy he say to him father, ‘ I no fit to stop here ; 
 I fit to go far ’way. Give me cloth.’ 
 
 “ Him father he feel sick for heart; he no want’m go. But 
 dem boy he say, ‘ I go.’ 
 
 “ Dem boy he go for road. He sleep plenty night for path. 
 Den he see one town he say, ; I fit to stop here.’ 
 
 “Dem men for dat town sabby [know] plenty cheat. Dem 
 boy he buy palm wine ; he buy gin; he buy pig; he give dem 
 men. Every night plenty, plenty dance. 
 
 “ One day he look in box. no see cloth ; cloth finish. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 249 
 
 “ Dem men for town dey .say, ‘ We no catch cloth for you ; go 
 ’way.’ 
 
 “ Dem boy he no catch kwanga, no catch plantain ; he live 
 for die ! [i. e., he is about to die] 
 
 “ He see one man ; he say, ‘I fit to work for you, Massa.’ 
 Dem man he say, ‘All right. Pigs dere, live for field ; go 
 keep’m.’ 
 
 “Dem boy lie go; he see pig’s chop [pig’s food]; him turn- 
 mack too. much sick [faint with hunger]; he chop’m [ate 
 some]. 
 
 “Dem boy he say, ‘All dem Kroo-boy [servants] for my fa- 
 ther catch plenty chop. I no fit to stop here. S’pose I stop 
 here, den I live for die’ [I shall die]. 
 
 “ He sleep plenty nights for road ; den he see dem house for 
 him father. Him father he look, he look, he say, ‘My boy he 
 live for come ’ [just coming], 
 
 “ He run plenty ; he look dat boy ; he kiss’m. 
 
 “ Dem boy he say to’m father, ‘ I be bad too much ; I no be 
 chile for you any more. I fit to be Kroo-boy [servant] for you.’ 
 
 “Him father he say to dem boy, ‘ You come ’long.’. 
 
 “ Dem father he tell dem Kroo-boy, ‘ You go catch calf. Make 
 plenty chop [food]. You sabby [know] dis boy come hack? 
 All same s’pose he come back from grave. We fit to dance 
 plenty to-night.’ ” 
 
 November 19-22, at sea, when on the latter date, 
 at 8.30 A. m., we reach Monrovia, the capital of the 
 Republic of Liberia, where I disembark, and re- 
 main until December 2. 
 
 The history of Liberia lias not yet been written — 
 perhaps never will be. I am indebted to Mr. J. 
 Ormond Wilson, Secretary of the American Colo- 
 nization Society, for the following historical ac- 
 count of the founding of Liberia : 
 
 On the West Coast of Africa, between the fourth and eighth 
 degrees of latitude north of the equator, lies a little country 
 
250 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 whose brief history is full of remarkable interest and signifi- 
 cance — the Republic of Liberia. 
 
 If we search for the original purpose in founding this African 
 state, we shall find in this, as in many other important human 
 enterprises, that it was complex. At that time Negro slavery 
 was a potent factor in the industrial and political economy of 
 a large portion of our country, and was not only fostered by 
 state laws, but was recognized by the National Constitution and 
 
 protected by National statutes. The individual motives in- 
 volved in this movement were various: 
 
 To establish a state on the coast of Africa which eventually 
 should become a powerful instrumentality in Christianizing 
 and civilizing the Dark Continent ; 
 
 To secure a place where the free people of color in the 
 United States could have a fair and full opportunity to develop 
 their highest capacity ; 
 
INSIDE VIEW OF ARUWIMI SHIELD 
 
OUTSIDE VIEW OF ARUWIMI SHIELD. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 253 
 
 To provide a practicable way for the gradual emancipation 
 of all the slaves in the United States, and thus to remove a great 
 national evil ; 
 
 To relieve the country of a class of people not homogeneous 
 or desirable ; 
 
 To strengthen the institution of slavery by ridding the slave 
 states of an obnoxious and dangerous element in slave com- 
 munities. 
 
 From the first, however, the higher motives very largely 
 predominated, and they inspired the zeal and controlled the 
 action of the leaders who founded Liberia, and ever since have 
 labored to promote her welfare. 
 
 It was on the 21st day of December, 1816, now more than 
 seventy-seven years ago, that a little band of philanthropic 
 men met in Washington and organized a society having for its 
 object to colonize, with their consent, the free people of color 
 of the United States in Africa, or such other places as might be 
 deemed expedient. Among the fifty original members of the 
 American Colonization Society are to be found names that have 
 a prominent place in the history of our country-— Henry Clay, 
 Daniel Webster, Bushrod Washington, John Randolph of 
 Roanoke, Francis S. Ivey, William Meade, Robert Finley, Elias 
 B. Caldwell, and others. The list of names with the original 
 signatures is still preserved in the archives of the Society. 
 
 There was at once an encouraging response to the call of the 
 Society ; its membership increased ; co-operative state, county, 
 and local socie 1 ies in all sections of the country sprang into exist- 
 ence, and liberal contributions began to flow into its treasury. 
 The Government of the United States, seeking a way to provide 
 for the slaves whom it had recaptured and brought into its 
 ports, in its efforts to exterminate that monster, the foreign 
 slave trade, joined hands with the Society. 
 
 In December, 1821, Lieut. Robert F. Stockton, LT. S. N., 
 agent of the United States Government, and Dr. Ely Ayres, 
 agent of the American Colonization Society, obtained, by pur- 
 chase from King Peter and other African chiefs, Cape Mount- 
 surado and a surrounding tract of country, eligibly situated on 
 the West Coast of Africa, between the fifth and sixth degrees of 
 
254 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 north latitude ; and in January, 1822, a small company of Ne- 
 groes from the United States, who a short time before had been 
 temporarily left at Sierra Leone, were settled there. 
 
 The Colony of Liberia, thus commenced, grew in numbers, 
 enlarged its territories by repeated purchases and treaties, and 
 was managed and controlled by the American Colonization So- 
 ciety down to 1847, when, with the consent of the Society, it de- 
 clared its independence and established a national government, 
 republican in form, and modeled after that of the United States, 
 from whence most of the colonists had come. 
 
 Successive additions were made to its territories, until they 
 reached from the River Gallinas on the northwest, to the Riv- 
 er San Pedro on the southeast, a distance of six or seven hun- 
 dred miles, and extended back from the sea coast some two 
 hundred miles or more to the Kong Mountains. It is true that 
 a few years ago this territory was encroach ed upon a little on the 
 northwest by England, and that France is now attempting to 
 appropriate a portion of it on the southeast and east; yet 
 Liberia still stands there on the coast, in front of and en- 
 circled by the great River Niger, which we hope at some day 
 may flow throughout its long course entirely within her bor- 
 ders. 
 
 The following is a correct delimitation of the 
 present boundaries of Liberia: On the northwest 
 it is separated from the British Colony of Sierra 
 Leone by the Manna River; on the southwest 
 from the French territory by the Cavalla River, 
 which makes its shore-line by approximate meas- 
 urement 320 miles. The delimitation of its east- 
 ern or interior boundary has not yet been fixed. 
 By the terms of the late treaty with France the 
 statement is warranted that it now has an average 
 width of about 150 miles, giving it an approxi- 
 mate area of 48,000 square miles ; and in compar- 
 ative terms about the size of England, whose area 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 255 
 
 is computed to be nearly 51,000 square miles. 
 England, with its 51,000 square miles, sustains a 
 population of 27,560,000, which is a fraction above 
 500 to the square mile. It is reasonable to infer 
 that a purely agricultural country cannot sustain 
 comfortably more than one-tentli of the estimated 
 population of England. Assigning a population 
 of 50 per square mile to Liberia (which is equiva- 
 lent to eight homesteads of eighty acres each, 
 reckoning six persons to each family), and accept- 
 ing its approximate area of 48,000 square miles as 
 correct, Liberia is only capable of sustaining a 
 population of 2,304,000. This estimate is based 
 upon the assumption that its entire superficial area 
 consists of arable land. It will be safe to reduce 
 the estimate fully one-fifth, so as to allow for un- 
 arable land, such as swamps, etc. It will be well 
 for those who are clamoring for the millions of 
 American citizens of African descent to emigrate 
 to Liberia to carefully study these figures. 
 
 Liberia is divided into four counties : Mountsu- 
 rado, Sinoe, Bassa, and Maryland. 
 
 The chief articles of export are coffee (about 1,- 
 000,000 pounds annually), rubber, palm oil, palm 
 kernels, and pissava. A few years ago the conces- 
 sion of the rubber industry of tbe entire country 
 was sold to an English company for $100,000 for a 
 period of twenty years. 
 
 Within the past two years the Hew York Colo- 
 nization Society has inaugurated a plan of great 
 practical value to satisfy itself as to the natural re- 
 
256 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 sources ot Liberia,. It has sent there a skilled 
 scientist, Prof. 0. F- Cook, and an assistant, to lo- 
 cate and develop an experimental farm. 
 
 The following extracts are gleaned from Pro- 
 fessor Cook's second report to the Society : 
 
 The great mortality among missionaries and others a few 
 weeks after arrival in the country is due almost entirely to 
 ignorance, carelessness, and foolish theories. Many appear pos- 
 sessed of an idea that their lease of life is especially secure, 
 siuce they proceed with entire disregard of even the simplest 
 precautions and remedies. Over half the white mortality in 
 Monrovia during recent years has been among “ faith ” mis- 
 sionaries. So manifestly unfair is it that the interests of the 
 country should suffer from reports of unnecessary deaths, and 
 so fatal would the doctrines of these missionaries be if they 
 should be adopted in Liberia, that the Government would be 
 eminentfy justified in excluding them from the country. 
 
 On the farm proper about sixty acres of forest were cut 
 down, a small house built, and a considerable number of pine- 
 apple, plantain, banana, and coffee trees planted. Care was 
 also taken to plant an assortment of the fruits of the country, 
 bread fruit, pawpaw, lime, cocoanut, and mango plum, so that 
 future extensions of the work may proceed under comparative- 
 ly favorable conditions. 
 
 The house is very small — 14 by 18 feet — but will serve as a 
 shelter, there being no civilized dwelling within several miles. 
 The difficulty of clearing away the forest, building, and plant- 
 ing, is something which can scarcely be realized by those who 
 have seen forests only in temperate America. The amount of 
 wood which was necessary to burn up in making the small 
 clearing where the house stands was amazing. 
 
 The timbers for the house were hewed from trees in the for- 
 est, and the boards sawed by native “ sawyer men,” as they are 
 called. The most available roofing material consists of large 
 corrugated sheets of zinc. These were bought at Monrovia, 
 taken to White Plains in a boat, and thence ten miles to Mt. 
 Coffee by native carriers, 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 257 
 
 The house is built ou a hill 140 feet above the level of the 
 river, which it overlooks, as well as a vast landscape of prime- 
 val forests. In one sense, at least, we are an outpost of civil- 
 ization. 
 
 Geologically a large part of the farm consists of the iron forma- 
 tion which is the native soil of the Liberian coffee tree. In ad- 
 dition to this are represented nearly all the soils of the section, 
 the lower and more level land along the river being well adapt- 
 ed to sugar cane, rice eddoes, and sweet potatoes. Such crops 
 in the immediate vicinity of the river are likely at present to 
 suffer from the hippopotami, but these will no doubt disappear 
 before the advance of civilization. They are no longer found 
 in the river below, but, according to the natives, they are nu- 
 merous farther up. 
 
 The name “ Mt. Coffee” is applied not only to the “moun- 
 tain,” a heavily-wooded hill about 320 feet high, but to the 
 cluster of surrounding hills, including an area of several 
 square miles. The whole region has excellent drainage 
 and no swamps, is adapted to coffee-raising, and is so 
 sparsely populated by natives that it might be settled at 
 once by emigrants, could the question of transportation be 
 practically solved. 
 
 Inquiries among the natives indicated that it would be pos- 
 sible to secure laborers in some quantity, though it would not 
 be wise to depend entirely on that source of labor supply. The 
 African native is usually too independent of civilization to 
 submit to constant woi’k. The supply of labor is sometimes 
 scarcely equal to the demand, and for any considerable increase 
 of civilization will prove inadequate, although the introduction 
 of beasts of burden, steamboats, and labor-saving machinery 
 will render the present force of natives many times more ef- 
 fective. 
 
 Monrovia runs east and west, and is situated on 
 an elevation which terminates westwardly into what 
 is known as Cape Mountsurado, a most eligible site, 
 if improved, for Government buildings, such as 
 forts, hospitals, etc. I estimate the population of 
 17 
 
258 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Monrovia to be about 1,200, which includes only Li- 
 berians, or civilized people, living in houses of Eu- 
 ropean style of architecture. Krootown, which is 
 divided from Monrovia by a small lagoon, spanned 
 by a foot-bridge, contains a population of from 4000 
 to 5000. Monrovia is well laid out, the streets being- 
 broad and regular. The houses of the Liberians 
 are constructed either of brick or wood. There are 
 54 of the former and 142 of the latter. I made it a 
 point to count every house, as I wanted to be cer- 
 tain in respect to whatever items of information I 
 might decide to publish in regard to Monrovia. 
 The number ot shops and trading places of every 
 kind and description is thirty-five. Five of the 
 shops belong to Europeans, of whom there are 
 about twenty-five in Monrovia. The bulk of the 
 business is done by German, Dutch, and Swedish 
 traders. Gen. R. A. Sherman, Henry Cooper & 
 Son, Moore & Johnson, and a Mr. Grant are the 
 leading Liberian traders in Monrovia. 
 
 The Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and 
 Episcopalians each have a church, the buildings 
 being substantial and in good condition. The Li- 
 berian College and the Methodist Seminary are the 
 two leading educational institutions. 
 
 The Executive Mansion is a large and substan- 
 tial building, well kept and inviting in appearance. 
 I had the pleasure of an interview with his Excel- 
 lency, J. J. Cheesemau, President of the Republic 
 of Liberia. I also was favored with an introduc- 
 tion to Gen. R. A. Sherman, Secretary of War, and 
 
MONROVIA, LIBERIA. 
 

Personal Memoranda. 
 
 261 
 
 Acting Secretary of the Navy; Hon. Arthur Bar- 
 clay, Postmaster General, and Acting Secretary of 
 State; Hon. Williams, Secretary of the Treas- 
 
 ury; and Hon. U. A. Moore, Secretary of the Inte- 
 rior. 
 
 There are no public monuments, but there is a 
 private one erected to the memory of ex-President 
 Roberts by his widow. This monument stands on 
 an elevation at the intersection of two streets, of 
 which Ashman is one. Through the courtesy of B. 
 Mathus, a carpenter, who went from Tennessee to 
 Liberia in 1862, I was enabled to make the follow- 
 ing approximate size of the monument: Base, 6 
 feet, 7 inches square, and 3 feet, 9 inches high. 
 Height of shaft, 11 feet, 9 inches. The following 
 are the inscriptions : East side — “ Sacred to the 
 memory of Joseph Jenkins Roberts, first Presi- 
 dent of the Republic of Liberia.” Above and be- 
 neath this inscription are Masonic emblems. North 
 side — “Born at Norfolk, Va., U. S. A., March 15, 
 1809; arrived in Liberia March 18, 1829.” Beneath 
 this, encircled in a wreath, is “July 26, 1847,” 
 which is the date of the founding of the Liberian 
 Republic. West side — “ Erected as a tribute of sor- 
 row and affection by his deeply afflicted widow, 
 Jane Rose.” Above this are a sword, scales, sand- 
 glass, and Bible. Beneath the Bible is a wreath. 
 South side — “Departed this life, trusting in the 
 Savior, at Monrovia, February 24, 1876. His noble 
 deeds follow him.” Above these words are em- 
 blems of African produce ; beneath them an ocean 
 
262 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 harbor scene, with a vessel at anchor and a plow 
 on shore. Encircled in a wreath are the ever-mem- 
 orable words, “ The love of liberty brought us 
 here.” 
 
 In the Government Square is a marble slab bear- 
 ing the inscription, “ To the memory of Rev. Eli- 
 jah Johnson. Born June 11, 1789. Died March 
 23, 1849. Native of New Jersey, U. S. A. He 
 emigrated in the ship ‘ Elizabeth ’ in 1820. Was 
 among the sufferers at Sherbro. One of the heroic 
 band who under the noble Ashman defended Mon- 
 rovia December 1, 1823. Pious, prudent, patriotic, 
 and brave, he held with honor responsible positions 
 until his death. One of the signers of the Declara- 
 tion of Liberian Independence.” 
 
 It is said of him that when Monrovia was at- 
 tacked by the savage natives December 1, 1823, and 
 when the small band of civilized persons was about to 
 be overcome, that he signaled a British vessel which 
 was in sight for help; and that when the captain and 
 part of the crew made their appearance on shore, 
 and offered the despairing defenders assistance pro- 
 vided they would allow the British flag to be hoist- 
 ed, that he refused by saying that it would be eas- 
 ier for them to whip the natives than to take down 
 the English flag if they once allowed it to be hoisted. 
 
 In connection with this event, it is narrated that 
 after the captain and his comrades of the British 
 ship had retired, the natives renewed their attack 
 with increased vigor, and caused the defenders to 
 flee in consternation from their last stronghold. A 
 
MONUMENT TO EX-PRESIDENT ROBERTS, MONROVIA. 
 
 THE'EXECUTIVE MANSION, MONROVIA. 
 

 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 265 
 
 cannon which they were forced to desert was sur- 
 rounded by the natives, who were anxious to learn 
 how it worked, so as to turn it upon the fleeing de- 
 fenders. Among those who did not flee was a Mrs. 
 Matilda Newport, who was standing near where 
 the gun was mounted, apparently composed, smok- 
 ing a pipe, and who was asked by the natives to 
 show them how to work the gun. This she readily 
 consented to do — not for their instruction, however, 
 but for their destruction. After stationing all the 
 natives in front of the cannon, she puffed vigor- 
 ously at her pipe until it glowed with tire, which 
 she used to “set off’” the cannon, the effect of 
 which was to scatter the natives like chaff before 
 the wind, and thus saved Monrovia to Liberia and 
 Liberia to the world. This memorable occurrence 
 is annually celebrated December 1. 
 
 There are three public buildings — the Executive 
 Mansion, the Legislative Hall, and the Courthouse. 
 The Legislative Hall is in fair condition, and appar- 
 ently cleanly kept. Its dimensions are approximate- 
 ly 53 feet long by 40 feet wide, and is the place of the 
 assembling of the Legislature, which meets annually, 
 and consists of eight Senators and thirteen Repre- 
 sentatives. The office of the Secretary of State is 
 located on the second floor. The President’s resi- 
 dence, or Executive Mansion, has been previously 
 noted. 
 
 The principal streets run east and west, and are 
 named Riverside, Broad, and Ashman. Nearly all 
 the shops are located on Riverside Street. 
 
266 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 There is a public Museum and Library, which 
 was opened July 26, 1894. I present to the Li- 
 brary 55 volumes, the works of American authors 
 of African descent, and as an expression of appre- 
 ciation the officials in charge tender me a public 
 dinner, which is attended by several state digni- 
 taries and a number of leading citizens. It is 
 given at the spacious residence of Hon. U. A. 
 Moore, Secretary of the Interior. 
 
 I met four persons in Monrovia whom I had pre- 
 viously known — Prof. Alfred B. King, one of the 
 Liberian Commissioners to the World’s Fair ; Rev. 
 S. J. Campbell ; Miss Georgia L. Patton, M. D., a 
 graduate of Meharry Medical College, Nashville, 
 Tenn.; and Mr. R. L. Stewart, of the same city. 
 The latter is engaged in missionary work in con- 
 nection with the Baptist Church. I find I have 
 made a note of the three following persons whom 
 I had not previously met : Miss Mary L. Sharpe, 
 of Mansfield, Pa., who went to Liberia in 1879; 
 has been home twice, staying four months each 
 time; was supported by the Missionary Society of 
 the Methodist Episcopal Church from 1879 to 1883 ; 
 since then has been self-supporting. Hon. I. S. 
 Herring, Judge of the Probate Court of Bassa 
 County, who won the prize for palm oil at the 
 World’s Fair, Chicago, 1893, and was the first to 
 introdueethe palm kernel industry in Liberia. Mr. 
 B. Matl ms, a carpenter who went from the neigh- 
 borhood of Washington College, about eight miles 
 from Jonesboro, Tenn., U. S. A., to Liberia, in 1862. 
 
MOUNTSURADO RIVER. MONROVIA. 
 CO 
 
 GEN. R. A. SHERMAN’S PLACE,! MONROVIA. 
 

Person al Mernoran da. 
 
 269 
 
 He was emancipated by bis master, who persuaded 
 him to go to Liberia. 
 
 The Monrovians, in a legal sense, are strict Sab- 
 batarians, as they uphold a law which prohibits the 
 performance of any kind of manual labor within 
 the municipality oil Sunday. However, I heard it 
 intimated that in an emergency ships can discharge 
 or load cargo by securing a special permit. There 
 are no telegraph or banking facilities, no national 
 currency ; nor is there a public park, a market, a 
 theater, or an amusement hall. I refer to the ab- 
 sence of a theater, or amusement hall, not because 
 I am an advocate of such, but for the reason that 
 the present status of the civilized world seems to 
 indicate that the means for public amusement are 
 a necessary adjunct to a live and progressive com- 
 munity. The Liberian Gazette , issued monthly, is 
 the only newspaper published in the Republic 
 The statement that there are no saloons in Monro- 
 via is true, though all the European trading houses 
 sell wines and liquors. The inference, tnerefore, 
 that prohibition prevails here, is not correct. 
 
 While in Monrovia I was informed by a mem- 
 ber of the Liberian Cabinet that the present pop- 
 ulation of Liberia is roughly estimated at 200,000 
 — 18,000 Liberians, or civilized people, and 172,000 
 natives, or uncivilized people. The voting popu- 
 lation of Liberia (only civilized persons being al- 
 lowed to exercise the right of suffrage) is estimated 
 at 1,600, which, according to the American meth- 
 od of computing statistics, viz., counting each voter 
 
270 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 as representing five persons, would give Liberia a 
 civilized population of only 8,000. The voting 
 population of Liberia, therefore, does not justify 
 the claim of a civilized population of 18,000. 
 
 As to Liberian affairs in general 1 do not feel 
 warranted in expressing an opinion, since I did not 
 visit any part of the country outside of Monrovia. 
 The late Treaty with France, which binds Liberia 
 not to alienate any part of the territories which 
 were “recognized to her” by the convention that 
 formulated the Treaty, has seemingly discouraged 
 not a few Liberians. These evidently surmise that, 
 by the terms of Article V. of the Treaty, Liberia 
 has virtually become a French Protectorate. The 
 citizens of Maryland County were especially active 
 in opposing the ratification of the Treaty by the Li- 
 berian Senate. My impressions in reference to 
 the affairs of Liberia in general are fully stated in 
 the following extracts from an editorial in the 
 Weekly Record , published at Lagos, West Africa: 
 
 Liberia, as representing negro repatriation and the result of 
 it, is an important factor in the political problem of West Afri- 
 ca, forming, as it does, the nucleus of a momentum destined to 
 exercise a most potent influence upon the country and people. 
 The necessity of an independent Christian negro community in 
 West Africa, not only as a fact, but as a factor in the activities 
 of the age, must be apparent to every thinking mind; and the 
 fact that the negro Republic has survived vicissitudes, many of 
 which were sufficient to overwhelm it, would seem to point to 
 its being designed for some especial purpose for which it is, as it 
 were, providentially preserved. This circumstance, while tend- 
 ing to intensify interest in Liberia, should also serve to awaken 
 its citizens to a sense of the great responsibility devolved upon 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 271 
 
 them of organizing and developing an enlightened system of in- 
 dependent government, and should stimulate them to the en- 
 deavor to make an honorable record for the possibilities of an 
 enlightened negro nationality. 
 
 It must be admitted that in the past policy of Liberia there 
 appears to have been wanting the idea which should have 
 formed the leading principle of its government — that of identi- 
 fication and assimilation with the native tribes, and co-opera- 
 tion with them in building up a nationality ; but, instead of 
 this, the idea that prevailed with the colonists in America with 
 regard to the native Indians appears to have gained ascendency 
 with the Liberians, and has caused them to regard the natives 
 as aliens and induced a feeling of estrangement toward them, 
 blended with the foolish hope or expectation that they would 
 be exterminated as were the Indians in America, and that their 
 places would be rapidly supplied by accessions from the United 
 States ; but it is evident from events now transpiring in Amer- 
 ica that the intelligent and enterprising negro has no intention 
 of leaving that country, with its possibilities — at least for mate- 
 rial growth and the advantages for intellectual progress, a con- 
 dition of things to which their labors have largely contributed 
 — to come to a primitive country, where everything is to be done 
 without the aid of facilities supplied by an advanced civilization, 
 inasmuch as for some reason or other Liberians have thought 
 it wise to exclude from their country the advantages of capital. 
 
 The feeling of alienation from the aboriginal population is 
 deeply deplored by the thinking men; but it has, nevertheless, 
 unfortunately shaped and is still shaping the policy of the na- 
 tion. Some of them refer with an unpardonable vanity or pride 
 to their conflict with the natives, and their superiority over them, 
 which they have gained by the appliances of civilization. The 
 repugnance of Liberians to the admission of capital is founded 
 upon the erroneous idea that whatever tends to improve their 
 material condition will reduce their political importance. This, 
 however, is the bugbear of the politicians, who regard office for 
 themselves as the summum bonum of life, and are afraid of any 
 influence which will deliver the people from the spell of their 
 sinister manipulations. 
 
272 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 We cannot afford to look with indifference upon Liberia. 
 Her influence, both in the interior and on the coast, has been 
 far more potent in behalf of civilization than she is aware of. 
 Many of her youth, both colonial and aboriginal, wander away 
 to different parts of the coast, and bear with them the elements 
 of civilization. Kroomen brought up in the families of Liberi- 
 ans show marked superiority, when compared with those who 
 have not had such advantages. 
 
 The neglect of the payment of the Liberian loan of 1871 is 
 the greatest drawback to foreign influence in behalf of the Re- 
 public. With interest unpaid for years, the capital has amount- 
 ed to an enormous sum ; but we believe that this very debt, if 
 the Liberians had among them financiers who knew how to 
 utilize it, might be made the instrument of great prosperity for 
 the Republic A vast extent of coast and wide domain in the 
 interior should afford the means for the easy settlement of the 
 liability, which is less than a quarter of a million, and which 
 after all is but a paltry amount for a nation. 
 
 Outsiders who are by no means unfriendly critics of the Re- 
 public think that the machinery of the government is rather too 
 ponderous for a young nation, causing expenditures which, if 
 applied to public improvement, would relieve the Republic of 
 what appears to the most friendly eye not only as an incongru- 
 ity, but an inconvenient and disastrous top-heaviness. 
 
 Touching the oft-repeated prediction that Libe- 
 ria must eventually fail, Rev. Dr. Alexander Crum- 
 mell, D. D., the present rector of St. Luke’s Church, 
 Washington, D. C., and who was a resident of Li- 
 beria for twenty years, in his work, “Africa and 
 America,” very appropriately says : 
 
 If any man of the commonest, simplest common sense will 
 pause and consider the humble origin of Liberia ; will call to re- 
 membrance the utter illiteracy of nine-tenths of its settlers; 
 that these settlers (but children of knowledge) were transferred, 
 in the brief circuit of a moon’s change, from the ignorant plan- 
 tations of America to the wilds of Africa ; that for years there 
 
WAR IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 Knives. Scimitars, Bows, Spears and Arrows, War Horn, Canoe Paddle. 
 
 

 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 275 
 
 was not a single scholar of their number to guide them in their 
 governmental experiment ; that they set up the standard of na- 
 tionality in utter ignorance of the science of government and of 
 political economy ; that their numbers have never, at any time, 
 reached twenty thousand persons, and they for the most part 
 ignorant slaves; that sickness and suffering, poverty and death 
 have been the constant visitants of every emigration to their 
 fatherland ; that their entire political life has been a ceaseless 
 warfare, now with lawless and piratical slave-traders, now 
 with barbarous and sanguinary tribes, now with brutal and 
 unscrupulous foreign traders, and unceasingly with a pestilen- 
 tial clime — if, I say, he will take these facts into consideration, 
 he will see not only that the sneer of failure is a contemptible 
 and mendacious libel, but that Liberia is one of the marvels of 
 modern history ! yea, but little short of a miracle ! 
 
 Liberia is poor, weak, and feeble. Her persistent life is ever 
 a perpetual, but nevertheless an effectual, struggle. 
 
 Never in the history of man has a nation been set up of such 
 slender materials and of such poor resources, and that amid 
 wild barbarism. 
 
 Liberia may yet die ; but if she dies, the future historian, if 
 he is just and honorable, will chronicle the fact with the candid 
 avowal : “ The wonderful thing about Liberia is that it ever 
 reached national life ; and only next to this is the fact that that 
 life was as long-continued and as effective as it was.” 
 
 The following from “ The Amerieo-African Re- 
 public,” by T. McCants Stewart, Esq., former Fi- 
 nancial Agent for the Liberian College, and at 
 present an influential lawyer in LTew r York City, 
 is in harmony with the above : 
 
 While regretting her weakness, let us not forget that the Re- 
 public of Liberia is a fact. Among the nations of the earth she 
 is recognized and received. Her name is found everywhere in 
 connection with the status or characteristics of other states. I 
 take up a commercial work, and look at the list of nations that 
 have vessels on the ocean ; Liberia is there. I examine the 
 
276 
 
 Glimpses of Af rica. 
 
 list showing the monetary units and standard coins of the dif- 
 ferent countries ; Liberia is there. Her past career has not 
 been altogether fruitless. Although a weak ally, yet she aided 
 England iu suppressing the slave trade ; and she would, if she 
 had sufficient strength or influence, totally destroy domestic 
 slavery among the natives. She has given to hundreds of na- 
 tives a knowledge of the English language ; and, although it is 
 spoken poorly, yet even far back into her interior it is possible 
 to find some one among the aborigines who can speak our Eng- 
 lish tongue. She has also imparted to the natives what she 
 could of her habits of industry, and she has given of her Chris- 
 tianity to many of them, some of whom are teaching and 
 preaching unto their pagan brethren. 
 
 While I am no enthusiast over the Americo- African Repub- 
 lic, yet T could not truthfully say that it has existed to no 
 purpose. I thiuk that the planting of Liberia has helped to 
 some extent the work of African civilization. 
 
 If in the future the United States Government should take a 
 livelier and deeper interest in Liberia ; if foreign capital should 
 enter the country ; if a national system of industrial education 
 should be vigorously supported ; if, as a result of these, the ab- 
 origines should be civilized and educated ; and if an intelligent 
 and hardy population from America should fuse with them, and 
 plant and sustain settlementsextending into the interior — then 
 out of this Americo- African Republic which Preside nt Monroe 
 planted civilizing and Christianizing influences shall sweep 
 into the Soudan, throughout the Niger, and into the Congo; 
 and under a mighty African ruler there will arise a stable 
 and powerful Government of Africans, for Africans, and by 
 Africans, which shall be an inestimable blessing to all man 
 kind. 
 
 Sunday, December 2, about 7 a. m., I bid adieu 
 to my kind and generous host and hostess, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Henry Cooper, and, accompanied by Mr. Jesse 
 Cooper, the son of the former, I board the British 
 steamship “Africa,” en route to Sierra Leone. On 
 weighing anchor, our ship heads for a port about 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 277 
 
 twenty miles south of Monrovia, where we load a 
 considerable quantity of pissava. On account of 
 this detour, we do not reach Sierra Leone until the 
 following Tuesday. A part of the ship’s cargo is a 
 full-grown ostrich, consigned to parties in Hamburg. 
 
 Tuesday, December 4, about 10 a. m., we anchor 
 safely in Freetown harbor. Here I disembark, and 
 proceed to the home of Rev. J. R. Frederick, Super- 
 intendent of Missions of the African Methodist 
 Episcopal Church in the Colony of Sierra Leone. 
 As it is the beginning of the dry season, and the 
 rise of the Harmattan winds, and as I feel consid- 
 erably debilitated, and as I am “blessed” with a 
 small crop of tropical boils, I do not feel diposed 
 to spend much time in moving around. On Wednes- 
 day evening I attend prayer meeting at Mt. Zion 
 A. M. E. Church, and on Thursday afternoon meet 
 the Sunday school of said church, and present it 
 with a handsome silk banner, made in Philadelphia, 
 Pa., in token of its liberality in contributing $30 to 
 assist the A. M. E. Church Sunday School Union 
 in paying for its property in Nashville, Tenn. In 
 company with the Rev. Mr. Frederick I call on the 
 Governor of the Colony, with whom I have a half 
 hour’s pleasant interview. I pay a visit to the 
 Boys’ Grammar School, and make a brief address 
 to the students; also visit St. George’s Cathedral. 
 
 I am indebted to Whitaker’s Almanac (1895) for 
 the following geographical and historical account 
 of Sierra Leone : 
 
278 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 The Colony of Sierra Leone consists of a peninsula ending in 
 Cape Sierra Leone. The Cape lies in 8° 30' north latitude and 
 13° 18' west longitude. The settlement is about eighteen miles 
 in length, by twelve in breadth, with an area of about 468 
 square miles. The settlement was first ceded to Great Britain 
 in 1787 by native Chiefs. The name Sierra Leone, “ mountain 
 of lions,” of, more correctly, “ mountain of the lioness,” is sup-7 
 posed to have been given to this peninsula because of a fancied 
 resemblance to a recumbent and nameless lion. 
 
 The actual existence of lions, or rather leopards, among the 
 hills, the roaring of waves upon the shore, the noise of thunder 
 upon the mountain top, have all been given as the origin of 
 the name. Sierra Leone is a Crown Colony. 
 
 About 1561, or 1562, a hundred years after it was first sighted 
 by Pedro de Cintra, John Hawkins came there and carried off 
 natives to the West Indies. Strange that the first spot where the 
 English slave trade began in Africa should also be the firstspot 
 where it was abolished. 
 
 Freetown, the capital of the Colony, lies at the foot of the 
 hills on the northern shore of the peninsula. It faces the har- 
 bor, and looks to the north and northwest. Its streets are broad 
 and well laid out, and its water supply is excellent. 
 
 The hills cut off the southwesterly sea breezes, and this 
 causes the town to be unhealthy. 
 
 The population of Freetown, which is really the only town 
 in the Colony, was 30,000 at the last census. Of this number 
 210 are Europeans, the rest natives. It is one of the Imperial 
 coaling stations, and as such is fortified and garrisoned It is 
 headquarters of the West India regiments on the West Coast of 
 Africa, and it is in telegraphic communication with all parts 
 of the world. Its distance from England is over 3,000 miles. 
 The mean annual rainfall is over 150 inches per year. The 
 year is divided into the wet and dry seasons, lasting from May 
 till October, and from November till April. 
 
 The products of Sierra Leone are limited, owiDg to the fact 
 that one-sixth of the resident population are traders. How- 
 ever, some ginger, rice, and cassava are produced, besides veg- 
 etables for home consumption. 
 
*Si«sS 
 
 DOMESTIC ARTICLES. 
 
 iats, Calabashes, Hats,' Spoons, Ladles, Basket, Cap, Harp, Beads, Pin Cushion, Small Elephant Tusk: 
 
 Tray, Shoes, Ivory Cup. 
 
Personal Memoranda. 
 
 281 
 
 The chief exports of the Colony are palm kernels, rubber, 
 cocoanuts, palm oil, gum copal, rice, and hides. 
 
 Most of the colonial revenue is derived from custom duties. 
 
 The standard of currency of the Colony is British sterling. 
 
 There is great diversity in religion at Sierra Leone. Chris- 
 tians, Mohammedans, and Pagans are all well represented. 
 Mohammedanism is said to be growing faster than Christian- 
 ity, although in 1891 there were said to be 41,000 Christians. 
 
 The Christian denominations represented are the Church 
 of England, the Wesleyans. the Free Church Methodists, and 
 the African Methodists, with a few Roman Catholics. 
 
 Most of the elementary educational work is done by private 
 schools, some of which are subsidized by the Government. The 
 present system of education in the Colony dates from 1882. 
 More advanced education is given at Freetown High Schools 
 and at the Training College of the Church Missionary Society, 
 at Fourah Bay, which is affiliated to Durham University, in 
 England. 
 
 Monday, the 10th, about 5 p. M.,I leave the harbor 
 of Freetown, per the steamship “ Bakana,” of the 
 British and African Steamship Company, for Liv- 
 erpool, Eng., after a cruise of two months and three 
 weeks along the "West and Southwest Coast of Af- 
 rica. 
 
 Sunday, December 17, about 2 p. m., we drop an- 
 chor at Las Palmas, Grand Canary, and remain 
 about five hours loading fruit. We find the British 
 steamship “Cabenda” anehoredhere, and on inquiry 
 learn that the following Americans are aboard en 
 route to the West Coast : J. W. llott, D. D., Bishop 
 of the Church of the United Brethren of Christ, 
 Cedar Rapids, Iowa; Rev. and Mrs. A. F. How- 
 ard, Michigan; Miss Cornish, Ohio ; Miss Eaton, 
 Los Angeles, Cal. — all ticketed to Sierra Leone, and 
 
282 
 
 Glimpses of Africa. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Isbey, of Sumter, Miss., destined for 
 Lagos. It is an interesting party, and though I 
 am glad to meet them, and freely chat with them 
 lor a half hour, I experience a subdued feeling of 
 sadness when I reflect that they have left home 
 and native land — all of them to work for Africa’s 
 redemption, and, perhaps, most of them to die for 
 it. These are heroes of whom the world knows 
 but little. In my heart of hearts I most sincerely 
 commend them to the favor and protection of Al- 
 mighty God. 
 
 December 25, at early morn, our journey to 
 Liverpool is ended, and all aboard are eager to get 
 ashore. It is a veritable “nasty day” — cold and 
 raining. The custom officials have evidently caught 
 the good cheer of Christmas times, and so allow us 
 to depart with as little delay as possible. In a 
 brief time I am seated beside a blazing tire in a 
 room at Laurence’s Hotel. 
 
 Wednesday, January 3, after ten days of suffer- 
 ing from the effects of the change from the equa- 
 torial to the temperate region (and that in the 
 midst ot winter), I embark on the steamship 
 “Teutonic" for Hew York, which place we reach 
 Wednesday, January 10, 1895, about 9 a. m. At 
 4.30 p. m. of the same date I take a train for Phila- 
 delphia, where I remain until 4.30 p. m. of the next 
 day, when I start for Nashville, Tenn., where I ar- 
 rive at 9 P. M. the evening of the 11th, after an ab- 
 sence of 147 days, during which I traveled 2,500 
 miles by land and 18,500 miles by sea, without 
 

 DOMESTIC ARTICLES. 
 
 Cloth of Bark Fibre, Wild Cotton, Whisp Broom, Caps, Congo Money, Mats, Ivory Finger Riu: 
 
Personal Manor a nda. 
 
 285 
 
 meeting with a storm, or even a squall, and with- 
 out a single mishap of any kind. 
 
 A great change “ came o’er the spirit of my 
 dreams” while abroad. Most certain it is that 
 civilization is a plant of slow growth, and equally 
 certain it is that the “ fittest will survive.” 
 
 A word as to the voyage. A journey can now 
 be made to the West and Southwest Coast of Africa 
 quite as comfortably as it can be made between 
 New York and Liverpool. All of the steamships 
 with a carrying capacity of 3,000 tons and up- 
 ward are new, and fitted with all the conven- 
 iences of modern ocean travel, such as electric 
 lights, smokingroom and library, ladies’ saloon 
 (separate and apart from the ladies’ cabin), cold 
 storage, etc. Passengers for the West Coast can 
 embark at Liverpool, Hamburg, and Havre ; and 
 for the South-west Coast at Liverpool, Antwerp 
 (direct route to the Congo), Havre, Hamburg, and 
 Lisbon. 
 
 Elder Dempster & Co., 14 Castle Street, Liverpool, 
 are the general agents of the British and African 
 Steamship Navigation Company, Limited, and of 
 the African Steamship Company. These two com- 
 panies maintain a fleet of fifty-three steamships 
 with an aggreate carrying capacity of 121,555 tons. 
 The fare for the round trip from Liverpool to St. 
 Paul de Loanda is $270 first-class. 
 
 The facilities for making observations as to the 
 influences of civilization on the West and South- 
 west Coast of Africa are fully sufficient. There 
 
are no points of civilization away from the coast 
 line and the river courses. 
 
 I unswervingly pursued the objects which im- 
 pelled me to make the journey, and it was indeed 
 interesting and instructive. I brought home a 
 large number of photographs, the work of native 
 photographers; also many curios. I especially 
 value my collection of war implements. 
 
 In the language of the uncivilized African when 
 he has completed a discourse, “ This palaver be 
 finished,” 
 
 THE END 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 DETAILS OF HY AFRICAN VOYAGE. 
 West and Southwest Coast. 
 
 [The table refers to the outward voyage, and was kindly fur- 
 nished by the chief engineer, Mr. J. J. Irving.] 
 
 Outward V otase of the Steamship “ Benguela " from Liverpool to 
 St. Paul be Loanda. 
 
 PORTS. 
 
 1894. 
 
 Miles Between 
 Ports. 
 
 Miles from Liv- 
 erpool. 
 
 Stoppages. 
 
 a 
 
 iHrs. 
 
 fl 
 
 Liverpool, 
 
 Dep. 
 
 Sept. 5th, 
 
 9.50 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sierra Leone, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 18th, 
 
 5.45 a. in. 
 
 3010 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 31 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 1.16 p. in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sess Town, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 20th, 
 
 11.10 a. m. 
 
 440 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 36 
 
 
 Dep.- 
 
 
 12.40 p. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Grand Sess, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 2.35 p. m. 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 51 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 5.26 p. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Accra, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 22d, 
 
 7.30 p. m. 
 
 511 
 
 3979 
 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 23d, 
 
 9.45 p. in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lagos, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 24th , 
 
 10.25 a. m. 
 
 230 
 
 4209 
 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 1.40 p. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fernando Po, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 26th, 
 
 9.35 a. in. 
 
 3ol 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 25 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 27th, 
 
 8.00 a. in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Victoria, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 11.35 a. m. 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 50 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 28 th, 
 
 2.25 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cameroons Bar, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 8.30 a. ni. 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 3 10 p. in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cameroons, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 5.10 p. m. 
 
 10 
 
 4660 
 
 4 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 Oct. 2d, 
 
 5.50 p. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cameroons Bar, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 6.20 p, m. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 3d, 
 
 5.45 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Batanga, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 3.40 p. ra. 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 4th, 
 
 5.45 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Waterfall Bar, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 6.20 a. m. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 50 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 9.10 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Batta, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 4.30 p. in. 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 9.45 p. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ukaka, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 5th, 
 
 9.40 a. m. 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 11.40 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Eloby, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 12.15 p. m. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 35 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 4.50 p. in. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Gaboon River, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 6 th, 
 
 2.10 a. m. 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 5.50 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (287) 
 
Appendix. 
 
 Gaboon, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.35 
 
 a. 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 4.00 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 N’gove, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 7th, 
 
 4.05 
 
 P- 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 8th, 
 
 12.50 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Setta Cama, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.40 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 0.20 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Loango, 
 
 Arr 
 
 9th, 
 
 7.40 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 2.25 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Quillo, 
 
 Arr 
 
 
 3.35 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 10th, 
 
 12.50 
 
 P- 
 
 m. 
 
 Black Point, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 3.15 
 
 P- 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 4.20 
 
 p 
 
 m. 
 
 Anchorage, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 11th, 
 
 1.05 
 
 a. 
 
 in. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 6.50 
 
 a. 
 
 ID. 
 
 Cabenda, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.30 
 
 a. 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep 
 
 
 4.30 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Shark Point, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 12th, 
 
 1.00 
 
 a. 
 
 ni. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 5.50 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Banana, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.10 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 8.30 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Malilla, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 11.30 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 6.10 
 
 p- 
 
 ni. 
 
 Shifting Anchorage, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 6.30 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 13th, 
 
 1.16 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Anchorage, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 1.35 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 5.45 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Shifting Anchorage, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.45 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 1.00 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Anchorage, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 •6.45 
 
 P- 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 14th, 
 
 5.40 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Boma, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 8.05 
 
 a. 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 11.00 
 
 a. 
 
 in. 
 
 Binda, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 1.10 
 
 p- 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 15th, 
 
 8.15 
 
 a. 
 
 ni. 
 
 Noqui, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 11.10 
 
 a. 
 
 m. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 17th, 
 
 5.40 
 
 a. 
 
 ni. ' 
 
 Matadi, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 7.00 
 
 a. 
 
 ID. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 18th, 
 
 2.35 
 
 p- 
 
 ID. 
 
 Boma, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 6.50 
 
 P- 
 
 m. 
 
 Dep. 
 
 20th, 
 
 12.50 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Banana, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 
 5.00 
 
 P- 
 
 m. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 
 5.10 
 
 p- 
 
 m. 
 
 Loanda, 
 
 Arr. 
 
 21st, 
 
 3.45 
 
 P- 
 
 in. 
 
 
 Dep. 
 
 22d, 
 
 2.20 
 
 p- 
 
 m, 
 
 86 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 52 % 
 
 57 
 
 184 
 
 4880 
 
 5435 
 
 5614 
 
 25 
 45 
 40 
 45 
 35 
 5 
 45 
 
 •• 1 
 50 
 20 
 40 
 45 
 
 1° j o 
 
 15 
 
 i W 
 < 
 
 o 
 
 Stopping time on outward voyage 
 
 38 
 
 Left Liverpool outward Sept. 5, 1894; arrived St. Paul de LoandaOct. 21, 1894. 
 
 On the homeward voyage, in addition to the above places, 
 stops were made at Amb'riz, Ambrizette, Muculla, Musera, 
 Nyanga, Landana, Mayumba, Cape Lopez, Bibindi, Rio del 
 Ray, and Monrovia. The time occupied in making the voyage 
 from Liverpool and return was three months and twenty days, 
 including a stop of ten days at Monrovia and six days at Sierra 
 Leone. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
CALL NUMBER 
 
 Vo!. 
 
 
 Date (for periodical) 
 
 I 
 
 Copy No. 
 
 S 644(3- 
 
 439495