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4^1 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 NORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA, 
 
 GEORGIA, 
 
 EAST AND WEST FLORIDA, 
 
 THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY, 
 
 THE EXTtWSiVii iTERRITORlES OF THE MUSCOGULGES 
 OR cKXi:.!^ coim:r>EiVi-^c-i-, 
 
 AND THE COUNTRY OF THE CHACTAWS. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE SOIL AVD NATURAl PRODUC- 
 TIONS OF THOSE REGION'S; 
 
 TOGLTHER WITH 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THK MANNERS OF THI INDIANS, 
 
 EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES. 
 
 c^ Lo G> u 
 
 By WILLIAM BARTRAM, 
 
 DUBLIN: 
 *-^ For J. MgoRE, W. Jones, R. M'AtfcJUER, AND J. RiCt, 
 
 I793. 
 

 
 « ♦% ■» 
 
 X." * » •►«v 
 
Biology LiUnujr 
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 PARTI. ^r. n. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. ^J "2, 9 ^{^ '^ 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 The Author embarks at Philadelphia — arrives at Charlcfion Page I 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Embarks again for Georgia and arrives at Savanna — proceeds South\^'ard 
 and arrives at Sunburn- — oblervations on the town, harbour, and ifland of 
 St. Catharine, its foil .ind producfticns — account of the eftablifhment of St. 
 John's diftri(51: and Midway mecting-houfe — defcription of a beautiful fifti 
 — rproceeds for tht river Alataniaha, defcription of a tremendous thupder 
 ftorm 4 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Crofies the river at Fort Barrington and arrives at St. Ille — palTes the 
 frontier fettlenients and meets an hoftilc Indian — croffesthc river St. Mary 
 and arrivc> at the trading-houfe, account of the country thereabout, its 
 natural produClions, of the lake Ouaquaphenogaw, faid to be the fource of 
 
 the river St. Mary rctnmc »o thn A\:,tnrr,nh^ cnA thnnrp tn .Savanna t6 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Sets off from Savanna to Augufta, one hundred fixty-five miles North- 
 Weft from the fea coaft — dcfcribcs the face of the country, the river Sa- 
 vanna, the catnra(5ls ard village of AuguftaT— congrefs with the Indians at 
 St. Augufta — the village of Wrightfborough on Little River — mc^uments 
 of an ancient Indian town on Little River — Buffaloc Lick — begins the 
 furvey of the New Purchafe — high proof of Indian fagacity — returns to 
 Savauna 2S 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 The Author leaves Brougbton ifland and afcends the Alatamaha — night 
 fccne — a tempcft — defcription of the river — ruins of an ancient fortifica- 
 tion — Indian monuments at the Oakmulge fields — Creeks, account of their 
 fettlcmtnt in Georgia /^y 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Eet« ofT from Sava.;ina to Eaft Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala- 
 
 famalia — defcends that river to Frederica on the ifland of St. Simon's — - 
 
 defcribes the ifland and the city 55 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Leaves Frederica for the lower trading-houfe on St. Juan's. — paffc? 
 
 through and defcribes the found. Sec. 6 1 
 
 C H A P. III. 
 
 Leaves Amelia ifland and arrives at the Cowford, on the river Sr, 
 
 Juan's — proceeds up ilie river alone in a fmall canoe ; fuffers by a gale nf 
 
 wind in crofling the river; is hofpitably entertained at a gentleman's 
 
 houfe, where be refits and fails again — defcribes fort Picolata — various 
 
 productions, viz. Magnolia grandiflora, Tillandfia ufneadfcites, floating 
 
 fields of the Piftia ftratiotc, the river and cuuntry, touches at Charldtte- 
 
 ville — arrives at the lower trading-houfe 68 
 
 C H A P. IV. 
 
 Proceeds farther up the river — paflcs by Mount Hope, and comes to ar 
 
 Mount Royal — defcribes the mount, Indian highway, &;c.^beautifui 
 
 Jdiiiiii :«pc of the country ard prcfpecl of ti>e lake — enters Lake George — 
 
 deUript'Oi- 
 
 ZG (0 
 
iV CONTENTS. 
 
 defcrlption of the lake — forced by flrefs of weather to put into the beautiful 
 
 ille Edelano, dcfcription of the ifland, ancient Indian town, mount and 
 
 highway — croffes over the lake and arrives at the upper trading-houfe 95 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Provides for continuing his voyage higher up the river, engages an In- 
 dian to aflifl: in navigating his bark, and fcts fail, the Indian becomes tired 
 and requefts to be fct on fhore — encamps at a delightful Orange grove — 
 continues again alone up the river : defcription of the Palma Elata : enters 
 the Little Lake, and comes to camp at an Or?nge grove — fight of alligators ; 
 a battle with them ; great embarrafTmcnts with them ; kills one : vaft 
 affemblage of fiih : defcription of the alligator and its nefl, &c. — defcribes 
 the Carica papaya — a very curious bird — in danger of being taken napping 
 by a huge crocodile — the banks of the river admirably ornamented with 
 fefloons and tapeftry, the work of nature — fepulchres of the ancients — a 
 hurricane — vifitsa plantation on the banks of the Long Lake; defcription 
 of the lake, a large fulphureous fountain — account of the founding and 
 prefent ftate of New Smyrna, on the Mufquitoe river — returns down the 
 river — Eail Lake — curious birds and a beautiful fill: — leaves Cedar Point, 
 touches at the ifle of Palms; robbed by a wolf — arrives at Six Mile Springs 
 — an account ot that admiranic louniam — aeftribcs the Gordonia, Zamia, 
 Caeftus opuntia, Erythrina, Cacalia, &c. — touches at Rocky Point — ar- 
 rives again at the lower trading-houfe. l ■ a 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Proceeds on a journey to Cufcowilla — defcrlbesthe country and waters 
 '— Annona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia ciliata, Empetrum album, 
 Andromeda ferruginea, Rhododendron fpurium. Pica glandaria non crif- 
 tata, Lanius, Lacerta, Snakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda forniofiflima, 
 Cyrilla — encamps at the Half-way Pond — dcfcribes the pond and meaJows, 
 a beautiful landfcapc — pilgrimage of fifli — defcribes various kinds of fifh— 
 great foft fhclled tortoife and great land tortoife — moral refleiflions and 
 meditations — leaves Half-way Pond and proceeds — fituation, quality, and 
 furniture of the earth — arrives at Cufcowilla — reception from the Indian 
 chief : his charaifter — Siminoles predileffiion for Spanilh cufloms and ci- 
 vilization — India Have?, their condition — departs for the Alachua favanna ; 
 defcription of the favanna — Siminoles on horfeback — returns to Cufco- 
 willa — a council and Indian feafl: — defcription of the town and Cufcowilla 
 lake — returns to the favanna — glafs fnake — makes the tour of the favanna 
 . — vefages of the ancient Alachua — Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolves, 
 favanna crane — arrives at the great bafon or fink — defcription of the fink 
 — account of the alligators, incredible number of fifti ; their fubterranean 
 migrations — returns — old Spanifh highv.-ay — Indian village — arrives again 
 at the trading-houfe on St. Juan's — character and comparifonof the nations 
 of the Upper Creeks, and Lower or Siminoles 168 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Sets out again on a journey to 'I'alahafochte — defcription of the Siminole 
 horfe — ercamps at an enchanting grotto on the banks of a beautiful lake 
 — rocky ridges and dcfcrt wilds — engagement between a hawk and * 
 coach whip fnake — defcription of the fnake — account of the country, grand 
 Pine forcll — encamps on the borders of an extenfive favanna— defcrij)tion 
 of the favanjia crane — comes upon the verge of e.\teiifive favannas, lying on 
 a beautiful lake — the expanfive fields of »Japola, decorated with delightful 
 groves — fquadrons of Siminole horfes — a troop under the conduvft and care 
 of an Indian dog — the fields of C.ipola a delightful region — ferruginous 
 rocks, rich iron ore — arrives at Talahafoclvie on the river Little St. Juan's 
 — dcfcribes the town and river — lud;..a caiio-.s — ihiir royagfrs and trafiic 
 
 — InJiaa 
 
C O N .T E N T S. "^ 
 
 —Indian voyages to Cuba — a fifliing party and naval race — an eicui'fion in 
 the Manatee fpring — defcription of that incomparable nynipha;uni — aa 
 account of the Manatee — crofTes the river to explore the country — Spanifli 
 remains — vali cane wildernefles — ancient Spanifti plantations — Apalachean 
 old fields — returns to town — White Kinjr's arrival — a council and fcaft — 
 charadler of the Icing— -leaves the town on rcfearchcs, and encamps in the 
 forefls — account of an extraordinary eruption of waters — joins his compa- 
 nions at camp — entertainment by the White King in Talahafochtc—Contcc, 
 its preparation and ufe — returns to camp — great defcrt plains — entertain- 
 ment with a party of young Siminole warriors — various natural wells and 
 finks; conjectures concerning them — account of the 1-ong Pond, and de- 
 lightful profpcc'Js adjacent — returns for the trading-houfe at St Juan's — 
 cmbarraffments occafioned by the wild horfes — cncantps at Bird Ifland 
 pond — vaft number of wild fowl tending their nefts — engagement with 
 an alligator who furprifcd the camp by night — obfirvations on the great 
 Alachua favanna and its environs — arrival at the trading-houfe 21 j 
 
 CHAP. vin. 
 
 The Author makes an excurfion again up St. Juan's to Lake Georje— 
 rcvifits SL\ Mile Springs and Ulicium groves, makes collcdions, and re- 
 crolfes the lake to the EaRt i ii laaft— tK»t fliore ninre bold and rocky than 
 the oppoiite — coafts round that fliore, toucliing at old defertcd plantations 
 — Perennial Cotton — Indigo — unpardonable devaftation and neglccft of the 
 white fcttlcrs, with rcfpcd to the native Orange groves — returns to the 
 trading-houfi; i£% 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 Indian warriors, their frolic — curious conference with thf Long War- 
 rior — ludicrous Indian farce rehtivc to a rattlc-fna'icc — war farce 453 
 
 C H A P. X. 
 
 Farther account of the rattb-fnake — account and defcription of other 
 fnakes and animals — catalogue of birds of North America ; obfcrvations 
 concerning their migration or annual pafl;:ges from Isorth to boulh, and 
 back again 262 
 
 C H A P. XI. 
 
 Vifits an Indian village on the river — water nitlon feaft — defcription of 
 the banqucting-houfe — makes an escurfion acrolstfee river; great dangers 
 in crofiing ; lands on the oppoiite fliore — difc^ers a bee tree, which 
 yielded a great quantity of hoiiey — returns to the Ihore — embarks for Fre- 
 derica in Georgia; vifus the plantations down tlie river; enters the 
 found and palTes through ; arrives at Frcdcrica — embarks again — -touchei 
 at Sirnbury — arrives at Ciarle^'ton, South C.iroi'na — meditates a journ<;y 
 to the Cherokee country and C.eck nation, in Wnl Florida jjl 
 
 PART III. 
 
 C H A P. 1. 
 The Author fets out frr the C'nerokee territories — paffes through a fine 
 cultivated country — crcffes Savanna river and cr.urs the ilate of Georgia 
 — Dirca paluftrls — covvpens — civil entertainmeuc at a pIan«iion — purfues 
 the road to Augulla, and rccrofTes the river at Silver Elnff — account of 
 Mr. Golphin's villa and trading ftor;-«, Silver Blufl", fort ivlcore, Augufta, 
 Saviinna river, mountains of Lrge folTil oyftcr-(h;lls 306 
 
 C H A P. 
 
« CONTENTS. 
 
 C H A P. II. 
 
 Procerus for fm t James, Dartmouth — curious fpcclcs of Azalea — r rofTes 
 Broad River — cftabliiTimcnt of Dartmouth — Indian mount, &c. croffcs. Sa- 
 vanna river — violent guft of rain — curious fpecies of JEiculus paviu — town 
 of Sinica — ^fort Prince George, Keowe— defcribes the countiy 318 
 
 Chap. hi. 
 
 Ocone vale — monuments of the ancient town — crofTes the mountains — 
 their fituation, views, and producftions — refts on the top of Amount Mag- 
 nolia — difcription of a new and beautiful fpecies of Magnolia — cafcades *f 
 Falling Creek — thunder florm — head of Tanafee — vale of Cowe — Indian 
 graves — towns of Echoe, Nucaflee, and Whatoga — nobly entertained by 
 the Prince of Whatoga — arrives at the town of Cowe — makes an cxcurfioii 
 with a young trader on the hills of Cowe — incomparable profpcifls— horlc- 
 flamp — difcovers a company of Cherokee nymphs — a frolic with them — 
 returns to towc 33 1 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 Sets off from Whatoga to the Overhill towns — Jore village: — Roaring 
 Creek-r^the Author and his guide part — furprifcd by an Indian — falute 
 and part friendly — mountainous vegetable productions — arrives on the 
 top of Jore mountain — fublime profpetfls — Atta-kul-kulla, grand Cherokee 
 chief — gracious reception — returns to Cowe — great council-houfe — curious 
 Indian dance — returns and flops at Sinica — arrives again at fort James, 
 Dartmouth — liil of Cherokee towns and villages 357 
 
 CHAP. V, 
 
 Sets off from Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chacflaws country- 
 Flat Rock — a curious plant — Rocky Comfort — Ocone old Town — migra- 
 tion of the Ocones — crofles the river — fords the Oakmulge at the Oakniulgf 
 fields — Stoney Creek — Creat and Little Tabofachte — new fpecies of Hy- 
 crangia — croffes Flint River — defcribes the country — pcrfecuted by cx- 
 traordin:iry heats and incredible numbers of biting flics — Hippobofca and 
 Afilus — extraordinary thunder guft — erodes Ch?ta Uche river— defcribes 
 the town — very large and populous—proceeds and arrives at the Apalachucla 
 town — vifits the old town — extraordinary remains and monuments of the 
 ancients — general face of the country and vegetable produ(5i:Jons — new 
 fpecies of ifclfculus 373 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Taibfe, on the Talla- 
 roofc river — Coloome, a handfome town — great plains — turther account 
 of the countiy — Dog woods — croffcs the river Schambe — conie= to Taenfa 
 on the Eafl banks of the Mobilo, thirty miles above the city — French in- 
 habitants — paffc down the river, arrives at the city of Mobile — fbort 
 account of the city and fort Cond. — returns to 'I'aenfa, and proceeds up 
 the river as far as the entrance of the Chicafaw branch — floating forclls of 
 the Nymphxa Nelumbo — vifits the adjacent lands — returns to Mobile — - 
 goes to ihc river Perdido — continues on to Penfacola — cordially received 
 ■by CJQvrrnor Chcftcr — fome account of the town — difcovers a new and 
 beautiful fpecies of Sarracenia — returns to Mobile 394 
 
 C H A P. VII. 
 
 Leaves M'-bilc for Manchac on the MifTiffipp; — proceeds by water tci 
 Pearl Ifiand-kindly entortained by Mr. Rumfcy--dcfcribesthe ifland— large 
 crimfon Plum — a delicate fpecies of Mimofa — paiTes li^ic Pontchartrain 
 
 •— toucties 
 
CONTENTS. tS 
 
 •—touches at the river T^enfapaoa — pafTe"; over Lake Maurepas — proceed* 
 lip to Iberville — croffes by land to Manchac — goes up the MifTifTippi — 
 fettlements of New Richmond — White Plains — furious nuifcle flicUsin tht 
 fiver— croffes over to Point Coupr; — Spanifh village and fortrcfsr— high 
 cliffs oppofite Point Coupe — returns to the Amite, thence down throiug;fa 
 the lanks and founds back a~ain to 7tIobiic 416 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 Leaves Mobile on his return — proceeds with a company of traders lor 
 the Creek nation — his horfe tires — is in ereat diftrefs — meets a company 
 of traders, of whom he purchafes a frefli hoffs — Uliciura groves — meets a 
 company of emigrants from Georgia — great cnii*;irra.Tniiint at a large 
 creek fwolicn with late heavy rains — arrive* at the banks of the AUbaaia 
 — croffes it and arrives at Mucclafle — Indian marriage — ferious reflec- 
 tions — perilous Qtuation of the trader of AIucclalTe — fets off for Ottaffe — 
 <lefcribes the country contiguous to the Tallapoofe river — pLntatious and 
 towns — Coolome — I^Kkabatchc— croffes the rivtr and arrives at Octaflf — 
 rotunda and ^uai.. — blank drink — fpiral fire — Sabbath or holy day te the 
 Great Spirit — fets off with a company of traders for Georgia — Chehaw 
 and Uffeta, Creek towns on the Apa'rchucla river, almolt join each other, 
 yet the inhabitants fpenU t-wn lannuafrfs radicallv different — arrives at the 
 Oakmulge— croffes the river in a portable leather boat — croQes the river 
 Oconne — head branches of Grtat Ogeche — arrives at Augufta — takes 
 leave of Augufta and his friends there, and proceeds for Savanna — lift of 
 Mwfcogulgc towns and villages— conjeiiluies concerning tht rife of the 
 A^ufcogulge cojofcdcracy 433 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 Short eicurfion in the South of Georgii— makes collcdtions-— gatJicrs 
 faed of two new and veiy curious ftirubs 465 
 
 C H A P. X. 
 
 Proceeds for Charlcfton — Calls at a gentleman's plantation — Adoe— 
 Tannier— wild pigeons — After fruticofus — leaves Charlcllon, proceeds on 
 his return home to Pcnnfylvania — croffes Cjoper river, nine miles above 
 the city — Long Bay — reefs of rocks — meets a gang of Negroes — paffcs the 
 boundary houfc — large favanna— -Dion3.a muf..ipula — old towns — Brunf- 
 vick — the C.arendon or Cape Tear river— North Weft — Livingfton's 
 creek — Wackamaw lake— Carver's creek — Afluvood — various vegetable 
 produiflions — cultivated vegetables — defcrihcs the face of the country on 
 the banks of the North Weft: and the adjacent lands — ftrata of the earth or 
 f. il — rocks — petrifactions — ancient fubmarine produClious, &c.— -leaves 
 Afliwood, continues up the river — vaft trunks of trees, with their roots, 
 and ftumps of limbs, with the bark on, turned into very hard ftonc — 
 Rock-filh creek — Crof* Creeks — the rife, progrefs, and prefeiK ftate of 
 Cambelton — curious fpecies of fcandcnt Fern — Deep River — croffes Haw 
 River— Meherren river in Virginia — Cucurbita lagenaria — curious fpecii.'s 
 of Prinos — Alexandria — George town — fuddcn fall of fnow — extreme 
 cold — croffes the river Sufquehauna i pon the ice — river Schuylkill — arrives 
 at his father's houfc, within three miles of Philadelphia 467 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 CHAP. 1 
 
 Perfons, charai5ler, and qualifications of the Aborigines— moft perfect 
 Kunian figure — Mufcogulge women — women of the Cherokees — arrogance 
 2f thcMufsogulges, yet magnaoiiiigui and mcrtL''ul to a van-jniflied eui^mv 
 
 4«i 
 C H A P. 
 
»lu CONTENT S. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Government and civil fociety — conftitution funply natural — the mico or 
 king prcfidesin the fenatc — eledivc — yet myfterious — tlic next man in dig- 
 nity and power is the great war chief — entirely independent of the mico — 
 his voice in council of the greateft weight concerning military affairs — tht 
 high prieft a perfon of confequence, and maintains great influence in their 
 conflitution and councils of ftate-— thefc Indians not idolaters — they adore 
 the Great Spirit, the giver and taker away of the breath of life, with the 
 xnoft profound homage and purity— anecdote 49* 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 Drefs, feafts, and divertifemcnts — youth of both fexes are fond of deco- 
 rations with refpedl to drefs — their ears lacerated — diadem plumes, &c. 
 — paint their flcin — drefs of the females different from that of the men — 
 great horned owl fkin fluffed and born about by the priefls — infignia of 
 wifdom and divination — fond of mufic, dancing, and rout — different clafles 
 of fongs — variety of fteps in their dances — fenQble and powerful effe<5t» — 
 ball play— feftival of the Bulk 499 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Conccrnin{r property, agriculture, arts, and manufactures — private 
 property — produce of their agricultural labours — common plantation — 
 king's crib — public treafury — women the mofl ingenious and vigilant in 
 mechanic arts and manufadures J09 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Marriages and funeral rites — pelygamy — take wives whilft they are yet 
 young children — adultery — Mufcogulges bury their dead in a fitting pof- 
 ture — ftrange cuftomsof the Chacftaws relative to duties to the deceafed — 
 bone houfe — dirges— feaft to the dead — methods which the nurfcs purfue 
 to flatten the infant's IkuU and retain its form 514 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 Language and monuments — Mufcogulge language fpoken throughout 
 the confederacy — agreeable to the ear — Cherokee language loud — pyrami- 
 dal artificial hills or mounts, terraces, obelilks — high way* and artificiil 
 lakci — chunk yards — Have polls J17 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
INTRODUCTION, 
 
 1 HE attention of a traveller fliould be particularly 
 turned in the lirll place, to the various works of 
 Nature, to mark the diftinclions of the climates he 
 may explore, and to offer fuch ufeful obfervations 
 on the different produdions as may occur. Men 
 and manners undoubtedly hold the tirll rank — what 
 ever may contribute to our exiftence is alio of equal 
 importance, whether it be found in the animal or 
 vegetable kingdom ; neither are the various articles, 
 which tend to promote the happincfs and conveni- 
 ence of mankind, to be difregarded. How far the 
 writer of the following flieet? has fucceedcd in fur- 
 niftiing information on thefe fufcjecls, the reader will 
 be capable of determining. From the advantages 
 the journalift enjoyed under his father John Bar- 
 tram, bntanifl: to the king of Great Britain, "and 
 fellow of the Royal Society, it is hoped that his la^ 
 hours will prefent new as well as ufeful information 
 to the botanift and zoologifl. 
 
 This world, as a glorious apartment of the bounc- 
 lefs palace of the fovereign Creator, is furnilhed wiih 
 an infinite variety of animated fcenes, inexpreffibly 
 beautiful and pleafmg, equally free to the infpetftioii 
 and enjoyment of all his creatures. 
 
 Perhaps there is not any part of creation, within 
 the reach of our obfervations, which exhibits a more 
 glorious difplay of the Almighty hand, than the ve- 
 getable world ; fuch a variety of pkafmg fcenes, 
 ever changing throughout the feafons, arifmg from 
 various caufes, and affigned each to the purpofe and 
 ufe determined. 
 
 It is difficult to pronounce which divifion of the 
 earth, between the polar circles, produces thegreateft 
 
 b variety 
 
X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 variety. The tropical divifion certainly affords thofe 
 which principally contribute to the more luxurious 
 fcenes of Iplendour, as Myrtus communis, Myrt. ca- 
 ryophyllata, Pvlyrt. pimenta, Caryophillus aromati- 
 cus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor. Laurus Perfi- 
 ca, Nux mofch. lliicium, Camtlia, Punica, Cadus 
 melo-caclus, CaCius granditlora, Gloriofa faperba, 
 'I'heobroma, Adanfonia digitata, Nyftanthcs, Pfidi- 
 um, Mufa paradifica, Mufa fapientum, Garcinia 
 mangoliana, Cocos nucifera, Citrus, Citrus auranti- 
 um, Cucurblta citruUus, Hyacinchus, Amaryllis, 
 NarciiTui;, Poinciana pulcherrima, Crinum, Cad:us 
 cochirieliifer. 
 
 But tlie temperate zone (including by far the 
 greater portion of the earth, and a climate the moft 
 favourable to the increafe and fupport of animal life, 
 as well as for the exercife and acliviry of the human 
 faculties) exhibits fcenes of infinitely greater variety, 
 magnificence, and confequence, with refpett to hu- 
 man economy, in regard to the various ufes cr vc- 
 .getablss. 
 
 For inflance ; Triticum Cereale, which affords 
 us bread, and is ternted by way of eminence, the 
 .italf of life, the mod plealant and nourifliing food 
 to all terreiurial animals. Vitis vinlfcra, whofe ex- 
 hilarating juice is faid to cheer the hearts of gods 
 and men. Oiyza, Zea, Pyrus, Pyrus malus, Pru- 
 nus, Pr. cerafus, Ficus, Nectarin, Apricot, Cydo- 
 nia. Next follow the illuilrious famiiies of forefl- 
 trees, as the Magnolia grandiHora and Quercus 
 fempervirens, which form the venerated groves and 
 folemn ftades, on the -MiiTifiippi, Ahitaniaha and 
 Florida ; the magnificent CuprelTus dillicha of Caro- 
 lina and Florida ; the beautiful Water Oak*, whofe 
 vaft hemifpheric head piefents the likenefs of a dif- 
 tant grove in the fields and favannas cf Carolina ; the 
 
 * QLcrcas I-'tii i'pherlca. 
 
 gigantic 
 
INTRODUCTION. Xi 
 
 gigantic Black Oak j-, Platanus occidentalis, Liquid- 
 ambar ftyraciflua, Liriodendron tulipifera, Fagus 
 callanea, Fagus fylvatica, Juglans nigra, Juglans 
 cinerea, Jug. pecan, Ulmus, Acer faccharinum, of 
 Virginia and Pennfylvania ; Pinus phcenix, Pinus 
 tceda, Magnolia acuminata, Nyfla aquatica, Populus 
 heterophylla, and the floriferous Gordonia hilan- 
 fhus, ot Carolina and Florida ; the exalted Pinus 
 ftrobus, Pin. balfamica, Pin. abies, Pin. Canadenfis, 
 Pin. larix, Fraxinur, excelfior, Robinia pfeudacacia, 
 Guilandina dioica, iEfculus Virginica, Ma ;no!'a 
 acuminata, of Virginia, Maryland, Pennfylvania, 
 New Jerfey, New "I'ork, New England, Ohio, and 
 the regions oi Erie and the Illinoi,^ j and the aroma- 
 tic and floriferous flirubs, as Azalea coccinea. Aza- 
 lea rofea, Rofa, Rhododendron, Kalmia, Syringa, 
 Gardenia, Calycanthus, Daphne, Franklinia, Sty- 
 rax, and others equally celebrated. 
 
 In every order of nature we perceive a variety of 
 qualities diflributed amongfl individuals, defigncd 
 for dlilercnt purpofes and ufes ; yet it appears evi- 
 dent, that the great Author has impartially diftri- 
 buted his favours to his creatures, fo that the attri- 
 butes of each one fecm to be of i'ufficient importance 
 to manifell the divine and inimitable workmanfliip. 
 The pompous Palms of Florida, and glorious Mag- 
 nolia, llrikes us with the fenfe of dignity and mag- 
 nificence ; the expanfive umbrageous Live Oak | 
 with awful veneration; the Carica pafjaya, feems 
 fupercilious wiih all the harmony of beauty and 
 gracefulnefs ; the Lilium fuperbum reprefents pride 
 and vanity ; Kalmia latifolia and Azalea coccinea, 
 exhibit a ported (how of mirth and gaiety ; the Illi- 
 cium Floridanum, Crinum Floridanum, Convallaria 
 majalis of the Chcrokces, and Calycanthus floridus, 
 charm with their beauty and fragrance. Yet they 
 arc not to be compared for ufefulnefs with the nutri- 
 
 -f- Qutrcui- tiiitSloria. f Quercus femp srvirecs. 
 
 b 2 tious 
 
'"^'n INTRODUCTION. 
 
 tious Triticum, Zea, Oryza, Solanum' tuberofum, 
 Mufa, Convolvulus Batata, Rapa, Orchis, Vitis 
 vinifera, Pyrus, Olea ; for clothing with Linuni 
 Cannabis, GolTypium, Morus ; for medicinal vir- 
 tues with liyffopus. Thymus, Anthemis nobilis, 
 Papavcr fomniferum, Quinquina, Rheum rhabarba- 
 rum, Pifuin, c:c. Though none of thefe mod ufe- 
 ful tribes are confpic;:ous for ftateUnefs, figure, or 
 fplenJour, yet their valuable qualities and virtues 
 excite love, gratitude, and adoration to the great 
 Creator, who was pleafed to endow them with fuch 
 eminent qualities, and reveal them to us for our fuf- 
 tenance, amuftment, and delight. 
 
 But there remain of the vegetable v/orld feveral 
 tribes that are dillinguiihed by very, remarkable pro- 
 perties, whicli excite our admiration, fome for the 
 elegance, fingularity, and fplendour of their veft- 
 ment, as the Tulipa, Fritillaria, Colchicum, Pri- 
 mula, Lilium fuperbum, Kalmia, &c. : others aflo- 
 nifh us by their figure and difpofal of their vefture, 
 as if defigned only to embellilh and pleafe the ob- 
 ferver, as the Nepenthes didiilatoria, Ophrys infec- 
 loria, Cypripcdium calceolus, Hydrangia quercifo- 
 lia, Bartramia bracleata. Viburnum Canadenfe, 
 Bartfia, S:c. 
 
 Obferve thefe green meadov/s how they are deco- 
 rated f they feem enamelled v»ith the beds of fiov/ers. 
 The blufiiing Chironia and Rhexia, the fpiral 
 Ophrys with immaculate white iiowers, the Limo- 
 dorum, Arethufa pulcherrima, Sarracenia purpurea, 
 Sarracenia galeata, Sarracenia lacunofa, Sarracenia 
 uava. Shall we analyze thefe beautiful plants, fmce 
 they feem cheerfully to invite us ? How greatly the 
 fi,ov/ers of the yellow Sarracenia reprefent a filken 
 canopy ? the yellow pendant petals arc the curtains, 
 and the hoilov/ leaves are not unlike the cornucopia 
 or Amaithea's horn ; what a quantity of water a 
 leaf is capable of containing, about a pint ! tade of 
 
 it — 
 
INTRODUCTIOy. XUl 
 
 n- — how cool and animating — limpid as the mcrning 
 dew : nature fecras to havefiirnif]:ed them with this 
 cordatcd appendage or lid, wliich turns over, to 
 prevent a too fudden and copious lupply of water 
 from heavy Ihowers of rain, which would bend down 
 the leaves, never to rife again ; bccaufe their ftraight 
 parallel nerves, which extend and fupport them, 
 are fo rigid and fragile, the leaf would inevitably 
 break when bent down to a right angle ; therefore I 
 fuppofe the waters w hich contribute to their fupply, 
 are the rebounding drops or horizontal ilrcams waft- 
 ed by the winds, which adventitioufly fmd their way 
 into them, when a bhift of wind fhifls the lid: fee 
 ihefe fhort ftiff hairs, they all point downvvards, 
 which dired: the condenfed vapours down into the 
 funiculum ; thcfe ftift hairs alfo prevent the varieties 
 oi infects, which are cauglit from returning, being- 
 invited down to i\p the mellifluous exudation, from 
 the interior furface of the tube, where they inevitably 
 perifli ; what quantities there are of them ! Thefc 
 latent waters undoubtedly contribute to the fupport 
 and refreilmient of the plant : perhaps defigned as a 
 refervoir in cafe of long continued droughts, or other 
 cafualties, fince thefe plants naturally dwell in Kow^ 
 favannas liable to overflows, from rain water : for 
 although I am not of the opinion that vegetables re- 
 ceive their nourifhment onlv through the afcendinp- 
 part of the plant, as the (lem, branches, leaves, &c.; 
 and that their defcending parts, as the root and 
 fibres, only ferve to hold and retain them in their 
 places ; yet I believe they imbibe rain and dews 
 through their leaves, Hems, and branches, by ex- 
 tremely minute pores, which open on both furfaces 
 of thejeaves and on the branches, which may com- 
 municate to little auxilary du<5ls or velTels ; or, per- 
 haps the cool dews and fliowers, by conflricting thefe 
 j^'ores, and thereby preventing a too free perfpiration, 
 
 may 
 
XIV IXTIIODUCTION. 
 
 may recover alid again invigorate the languid nerves 
 of thofe which feem to fuft'er for want of water, in- 
 great heats and droui^hts : but whether the infeds 
 caught in their leaves, and which dilfolve and mix 
 with the fluid, ferve for aliment or fupport to thefe 
 kind of plants, is doubtful. All the Sarraccnias are 
 infeft catchers, and fo is the Dioflea rotundifolia. 
 
 But admirable are the properties of the extraordi- 
 nary Dionea mufcipula ! A groat extent on each 
 fide of that ferpentine rivulet is occupied by thofc 
 fportive vegetables — let us advance to the ipot in 
 which nature has feat^d them. Aftonifning pro- 
 du6lion ! lee the incarnate lobes expanding, how 
 gay and fportive they appear ! ready on the fpring 
 to intrap inca^^rious deluded infeds ! what artifice ! 
 there behold*one of the leaves juft clofed upon a 
 ftruggling fly ; another has gotten a worm ; its hold 
 is furc, its prey can never efcape — carnivorous ve- 
 getable ! Can we after viewing this objeft, hefitate 
 a moment to confefs, that vegetable beings are en- 
 dued with fome fenfible faculties or attributes, fimi- 
 lar to thofe that dignify animal nature ; they are 
 organical, living, and felf-moving bodies, for we 
 fee here, in this plant, motion and volition. 
 
 What power or faculty is it, that dire£ls the cirri 
 of the Cucurbita, Momordica, Viti.-, and other 
 climbers, towards the twigs of flirubs, trees, and 
 other friendly fupport ? vi^e fee them invariably lean- 
 ing, extending, and like the fingers of the human 
 hand, reaching to catch hold of what is neareft, 
 juft as if they had eyes to fee with ; and when their 
 hold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a fpiral form, 
 by which artifice it becomes more elafliic and effec- 
 tual, than if it had remained in a dired hne, for 
 every revolution of the coil adds a portion of 
 ftrength ; and thus collected, they are enabled to 
 dilate and contrad as occafion or neceffity requires, 
 
 and 
 
INTRODUCTIO . :^ 
 
 and thus by yielding to, and hunioiirmg the motion 
 of the limbs and twigs, or other fupport on which 
 they depend, are not fo liable to be torn ofF by fud- 
 den W.ads of wind or other afiauks : is it f^nfe or 
 inftincl that influences their aftions ? it mui^ be 
 lome impulfe ; or does the hand of the Almighty 
 •a£l and perform this work in our fight ? 
 
 The vital principle or ef?icient caufe of motion 
 and aftion, in the animal and vegetable '^' fydem, 
 perhaps, may be more fimilar than we generally ap- 
 prehend. Where is the eflential diffcrcnrc between 
 the feed of peas, peaches, and other tribes of plants 
 and trees, and the eggs of oviparous animals, as of 
 birds, fnakes, or bvitrerflles, fpawn of fidi, &c. ? 
 Let us begin at the foiirce of terreftrird exiftence. 
 Are not the feeds of vegetables, and the eggs of 
 oviparous animals fecundated, or influenced with 
 the vivific principle of life, througii the approxima- 
 tion and intimacy of the fexes ? and immediately 
 after the eggs and feeds are hatched, does not the 
 young larva and infant plant, by heat and moiflure, 
 rife into exidence, increafe, and in due time arrive 
 to a flate of perlecl maturity ? The phyfio'ogifts 
 agree in opinion, that the work of generation in vi- 
 viparous animal.;, is exacl:ly fimilar, only mere fc- 
 cret and enveloped. The mode of operation that 
 nature purfues in the produclion of vegetables, and 
 oviparous animals, is infinitely more uniform and 
 manifefl, than that which is or can bedifcovercd to 
 take place in viviparous animals. 
 
 The mod apparent difference be-tween animals 
 and vegetables is, that animals have the povvers of 
 found, and are locomotive, whereas vegetables are 
 not able to thift themfclves from the places where 
 nature has planted them : yet vegetables have the 
 ^^ower of moving and exercifing their members, and 
 
 * Vid. Sponfalia plantarum, -Vmoen. Acad 1. n. ii. I-iiin. 
 
 have 
 
XVI I-^rtRODUCTION. 
 
 have the means of tranfplanting or colonifing their 
 tribes ahnoft over the furface of the whole earth ; 
 -fome feeds, for inflance, grapec, nuts, fmihw, peas, 
 and others, whofe pulp or kernel is food for animals, 
 will remain feveral days without being injured in 
 ftomachs of pigeons and other birds of palfage ; by 
 this means fuch forts are diftributed irom place to 
 place, even acrofs fcas ; indeed fomc feeds require 
 this preparation by the digeftive heat of the ftomach 
 of animals, to diilolve and detach the oily, vifcid 
 pulp, or to foften the hard fhells. Small feeds are 
 fometimes furnifhed with rays of hair or down ; and 
 others with thin light membranes attached to them, 
 which ferve the purpofe of wings, on which they 
 mount upward, leaving the earth, float in the air, 
 and are carried away by the fvvift winds to very re- 
 mote regions before they Tettle on the earth j fome 
 are furniflied with hooks, which catch hold of the 
 wool and hair of animals palling by them, and are 
 by that means fpread'abroad ; other feeds ripen in 
 pericarpes, which open with elaftic force, and flioot 
 their feed to a very great diftance round about ; 
 fome other feeds, as of the Moffes and Fungi, are 
 fo very minute as to be invifible, light as atoms, 
 and thefe mixing v.'ith the air, are vv'afted all over 
 the world. 
 
 The animal creation alfo excites our admiration, 
 and equally manifefts the almighty power, wifdom, 
 and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and Sove- 
 reign Lord of the univerfe ; fome in their vail fize 
 and Ib-ength, as the mammoth, the elephant, the 
 whale, the lion, and aUigator ; others in agility ; 
 others in their beauty and elegance of colour, plu- 
 mage, and rapidity of flight, having the faculty of 
 moving and living in the air ; others for their imme- 
 diate and indifpenfable ufe and convenience to man, 
 in furnifliing means for our clothing and fufl:enance, 
 
 and 
 
INTRODUCTION. XVi 
 
 and adminiftei'ing to our help in the toils Tend labours 
 of life : how wonderful is the mechanifm of thefe 
 finely formed felf-moving beings, how comphcated 
 their fyftem, yet what unerring uniformity prevails 
 through every tribe and panicular fpecies! the ef- 
 fed we fee and contemplate, the caufe is invillble, 
 incomprehcnfible ; how can it be otherwife ? when 
 we cannot fee the end or origin of a nerve or vein, 
 while the divifibility of matter or fluid, is infinite. 
 We admire the mechanifm of a watch, and the fa- 
 bric of a piece of brocade, as being the production 
 of art; thefe merit our admiration, and mud excite 
 our efteem for the ingenious artilt or modifier ; but 
 nature is the work of God omnipotent; and an ele- 
 phant, nay even this world, is comparatively but a 
 very minute part of his works. If then the vifible, 
 the mechanical part of the animal creation, the mere 
 material part, is fo admirably beautiful, harmoni- 
 ous, and incomprehenfible, wliat mufl be the intel- 
 ledual fyftem ? that incxpreflibly more ellential prin- 
 ciple, which fecretly operates within ? that which 
 animates the inimitable machines, which gives them 
 motion, impowers them to act, fpeak, and perform, 
 this muft be divine and immortal ? 
 
 I am fenfible that t!ie general opinion of philofo- 
 phers, has uiitinguiflicd the moral fyllem of the 
 brute creature from that of mankuid, by an epithet 
 which impHes a mere mechanical impulfe, which 
 leads cind impels them to neceffary actions, without 
 any premeditated defign or contrivance ; this we 
 term inftind", which faculty we fiipj-jofe to be infe- 
 rior to reafon in man. 
 
 The parental aiul filial aifections feem to be as 
 ardent, their fen-fibility and attacliment as attive and 
 iaithful, as thofe obfervedin human nature. 
 
 When travellln^^ on the eaft coaft of the ifthmus 
 of Florida, afcending the fouth Mufquito river, in 
 
 a canoe. 
 
XVlll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 a canoe, we obferved numbers of deer and bears, 
 near the banks, and on the iflands of the river ; 
 the bears were feeding on the fruit of the dwarf 
 creeping Chamasrops ; (this fruit is of the form and 
 fize of dates, and is deHcious and nourifhing food :) 
 we faw eleven bears in the courfe of the day, they 
 feenied no way furprifed or affrighted at the fight 
 of us. In the evening, my hunter, who was an 
 excellent markfman, faid that he would fhoot one 
 of them, for the fake of the ilvin and oil, for we 
 had plenty and variety of provifions in our bark. 
 We accordingly, on fight of two of them, planned 
 our approaches as artfully as poflible, by crofTing 
 over to the oppolite fhore, in order to get under 
 cover of a fmall ifland ; this we cautioufly coafted 
 round, to a point, which we apprehended would 
 take us within Ihot of the bears ; but here finding 
 ourfelves at too great a diftance from them, and 
 difcovering that we rauft: openly fliow ourfelves, we 
 had no other alternative to effe6l our purpofe, but 
 making oblique approaches. We gained gradually 
 on our prey by this artifice, without their noticing 
 us : finding ourfelves near enough, the hunter fired, 
 and laid the largefl dead on the fpot where fhe flood ; 
 when prefently the other, not feeming the Isafl 
 moved at the report of our piece, approached the 
 dead body, fmelled, and pav/ed it, and appearing 
 in agony, fell to weeping and looking upwards, 
 then towards us, and cried out like a child. Whilfl 
 our boat approached very near, the hunter was 
 loading his rifle in order to fhoot the furvivor, 
 which was a young cub, and the flaiii fuppofed to be 
 the dam. The continual cries of this afflided child, 
 bereft of its parent, affefted me very fenfibly ; I 
 was moved with compalTion, and charging m^-felf 
 as if acceffary to what now appeared to be a cruel 
 murder, endeavoured to prevail on the hunter to 
 
 fave 
 
INTRODUCTION. XIX 
 
 fave its life, but to no efleel ! for by habit he had 
 become infenfible to compafhon towards the brute 
 creation : being now within a few yards of the 
 harmlefs devoted vidim, he fired, and laid it dead 
 upon the body of the dam. 
 
 If we beftow but very little attention to the eco- 
 nomy of the animal creation, we (liall find manifefl 
 examples of premeditation, perfeverance, refolu- 
 tion, and confummate artifice, in order to effeft 
 their purpofes. The next morning, after the flaugh- 
 ter of the bears, whilft my companions were fi:rik- 
 ing our tent and preparing to re-embark, 1 refolved 
 to make a little botanical excurfion alone : crofling 
 over a narrow ifthmus of fand hills which fcparatcd 
 the river from the ocean, I pafi'ed over a pretty 
 high hill, its fummit ciefled with a few palm trees, 
 .furrounded with an Orange grove : this hill, whofe 
 bafe was vvaflied on one fide by the floods of the 
 Mufquito river, and en the other fide by the billows 
 of the ocean, was about one hundred yarJs diame- 
 ter, and feemed to be an entire heap of fea fliells. I 
 continued along the beach a quarter of a mile, and 
 came up tc a foreft of the Agave vivipara (thouoh 
 compofed of herbaceous plants, I term it a foreft, 
 becaufe their fcapes or flower-ltcms avofe ered: near 
 30 feet high) : their tops regularly branching in the 
 form of a pyramidal tree, and thefc plants growing 
 near to each other, occupied a fpace of ground 
 of feveral acres : when their feeds are ripe they 
 vegetate, and grow on the branches, until the fcape 
 dries, when the young plants fall to the ground, 
 cake root, and fix ihemfelves in the fand : the plant 
 grows to a prodigious fize before the fcape fhoots 
 up from its centre. Having contemplated this ad- 
 mirable grove, 1 proceeded towards the flirubberies 
 on the banks of tha river, and though it was now 
 Jate in December, the aromatic groves appeared in 
 
 full 
 
.-tX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 full bloom. The broad-leaved fweet Myrtus, Eiy- 
 thiina corallodendrum, Cadus cochinellifcr, Caca- 
 iia fuffruticofa, and particularly, Rhizophora con- 
 jugata, which ftood clofe to and in the fait water of 
 the river, were in full bloom, with beautiful white 
 fweet fcented flowers, which attracted to them two 
 or three fpecies of very beautiful butterflies, one of 
 which was black, the upper pair of its wings very 
 long and narrow, marked with tranfverfe flripes of 
 pale yellow, with fome fpots of a crimfon colour 
 near the body. Another fpecies remarkable for 
 fplendour, was of a larger fize ; the wings v/ere 
 undulated and obtufely crenated round their ends, 
 the nether pair terminating near the body, with a 
 long narrow forked tail ; the ground light yellow, 
 flriped oblique-tranfverfely, with flripes of pale ce- 
 leflial blue, the ends of them adorned with little 
 eves encircled with the fined blue and crimfon, 
 which reprefented a very brilliant rofary. But thofe 
 which were the mofl numerous were as white as 
 fnov/, their wings large, their ends lightly crenated 
 and ciliated, forming a fringed border, faintly 
 marked with little black crefcents, their points 
 downward, with a clufler of little brilliant orbs of 
 blue and crimfon, on the nether wings near the 
 body -, the numbers were incredible, and there 
 feemed to be fcarcely a flower for each fly, multitu- 
 dinous as they were, befides clouds of them hover- 
 ing over the melhfluous groves. Befides thefe pa- 
 piles, a variety of other infefts come in for a fliare, 
 particularly feveral fpecies of bees. 
 
 As I was gathering fpecimens of flowers from the 
 flirubs, 1 w^as greatly furprifed at the ludden appear- 
 ance of a remarkably large fpider on a leaf, of the 
 genus Araneus fallens : at fight of me he boldly 
 faced about, and raifed himfelf up, as if ready to 
 fpring upon me j his body was about the fize of a 
 
 pigeon's 
 
INTRODUCTIO!^. XTLX 
 
 pigeon's e^^, of a buff colour, which, with his 
 legs, were covered with fnort filky hhir ; on the 
 top of the abdomen was a rouiid red fpot or ocelle 
 encircled with black. After I had recovered from 
 the furprife, obferving that the wary hunter had re- 
 tired under cover, I drew near again, and prefently 
 difcovered that I had furprifed him on predatory at- 
 tempts again(i the infed tribes. I was therefore de- 
 termined to watch his proceedings. I foon noticed 
 that the objed: of his wiflies was a large fat bomble 
 bee (apis bombylicus), that was vifiting the Hovvers, 
 and piercing their nectariferous tubes : this cunninr 
 intrepid hunter conducted his fubtil approaches with 
 the circumfpedion and perfeverance of a Siminole 
 when hunting a deer, advancing with flow fteps 
 obliquely, or under cover of dcnfe foliage, and be- 
 hind the limbs, and when the bee was engaged in 
 probing a flov/er, he would leap nearer, and then 
 infl:antly retire out of Hght, under a leaf or behind 
 a branch, at the fame time keeping a fiiarp eye upon 
 me. When he had now gotten within two feet of 
 his prey, and the bee was intent on fipping the deli- 
 cious nedlar from a flower, with Iiis back next the 
 fpider, he inft:antly fprang upon him, and grafped 
 him over the back and fnoulder, when for forae 
 moments they boih difappeared. I expedited the 
 bee had carried oif his enemy, but to my furprife, 
 they both together rebounded back again, fufpended 
 at the extremity of a flrong elaftic thread or web, 
 which the fpider had artfully let fall, or fixed on the 
 twig, the inftant he leaped from it : the rapidity of 
 the bee's wings, endeavouring to extricate himfclf, 
 made them both together appear as a moving va- 
 pour, until the bee became fatigued by vv^hirhng 
 round, firfl one way and then back again : at 
 length, in about a quarter of an hour, the bee quite 
 c;!chaufled by his ftruggles, and the repeated wounds 
 
 of 
 
XXll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 of the butcher, became motlonlefs, and quickly 
 expired in the arms of the devouring fpider, who, 
 afcending the rope with his game, retired to feail on 
 it under cover of the leaves ; and perhaps before 
 night, became himfelf the delicious evening repaft 
 of a bird or lizard. 
 
 Birds are in general focial and benevolent crea- 
 tures ; intelligent, ingenious, volatile, aclivc be- 
 ings ; and this order of animal creation confifts of 
 various nations, bands, or tribes, as may be ob- 
 ferved from their different ftrudlure, manners, and 
 languages, or voice ; each nation, though fubdi- 
 vided into many different tribes, retaining its general 
 form or ftrudture, a fimilaiity of cuftoms, and a 
 fort of dialed or language, particular to that nation 
 or genus from v/hich thofe tribes feem to have de- 
 fcended or feparated. What I mean by a language 
 in birds, is the common notes or fpeech, that they 
 ufe when employed in feeding themfelves and their 
 young, calling on one another, as well as their me- 
 naces againft their enemy ; for their fongs feem to 
 be mufical compofitions, performed only by the 
 males, about the time of incubation, in part to di- 
 vert and amufe the female, entertaining her with 
 melody, S:c. This harmony, v.'ith the tender foli- 
 citude of the male, alleviates the toils, cares, and 
 diflreffes of the female, confoles her in folitary re- 
 tirement whilll; fitting, and animates her with affec- 
 tion and attachment to himfelf in preference to any 
 other. The volatility of their fpecies, and opera- 
 tion of their paffions and affe£lions, are particularly 
 confpicuous in thd different tribes of the thruili, fa- 
 mous for fong. On a fweet PJay morning we fee 
 the red thruflres (turdus rufus) perched on an ele- 
 vated fprig of the fnovvy Hawthorn, fweet flower- 
 ing Crab, or other hedge fhrub, exerting their -ac- 
 complifliments in fong, ifriving by varying and ele- 
 vating 
 
IKTRCDUCTICr. XXlll 
 
 vatlng their voices to excel each other ; we obferve 
 a very agreeable variation, not only in tone but in 
 modulation ; the voice of one is flirill, ot another 
 lively and elevated, of others fonorous and quiver- 
 ing. The mock-biid (turdus poly;^lottos) who ex- 
 cels, diftinguiflies himfelf in a variety of adion as 
 well as air ; from a turret he bounds aloft with the 
 celerity of an arrow, as it were to recover or recal 
 his very foul, expired in the lall elevated ilrain. 
 The high forefts are filled with the fymphony of the 
 fong or wood thrufh (turdus minor) 
 
 Both faxes of fome tribes of birds fing equally 
 finely ; and it is remarkable, that thefe reciprocally 
 aflift in their domeftic cares, as building their nefts 
 and fitting on their eggs, feeding and defendinir 
 their young brood, &c. The oriolus (idlcrus, Cat.) 
 is an inftance of this cafe ; and the female of the 
 idterus minor is a bird of more fplendid and gay 
 drefs than the male bird. Some tribes of birds \\ ill 
 relieve and rear up the young and helplefs, of their 
 own and other tribes, when abandoned. Animal 
 fubftance feems to be the liril food of all birds, even 
 the granivorpus tribes. 
 
 Having pafl'ed through fome remarks, which ap- 
 peared of fufficient confequence to be offered to the 
 public, and which were moil fuitable to have a place 
 in the iiUroduclion, I lliall now olfer fuch obfcrva- 
 tions as muft neceffarily occur, from a careful atten- 
 tion to, and invefdgaLion of, the marners of the 
 Indian nations ; being induced, while travcllincr 
 among them, to afibciate with them, that I mio-h^t 
 judge for myfelf, whether they v.-ere deferving'of 
 the fevere cenfure which prevailed again ft them 
 among the white people, that they were incaoable 
 of civiUzation. 
 
 In the confideration of this important fub'ecc ir 
 will be neceifary to inquire, whether thev were in- 
 clined 
 
xxiv Introduction, 
 
 dined to adopt the European modes of civil fociety ? 
 Whether fuch a reformation could be obtained, 
 without ufing coercive or violent means ? And lailly, 
 whether fuch a revolution would be produftive of 
 real benefit to them, and confequently beneficial to 
 the public ? I vi^as fatisfied in difcoveiing that they 
 were defirous of becoming united with us, in civil 
 and religious fociety. 
 
 It may, therefore, not be foreign to the fubjedH:, 
 to point out the propriety of fending men of ability 
 and virtue, under the authority of government, as 
 friendly viators, into their towns : let thefe men be 
 inflrudled to learn perfedly their languages, and by 
 a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquainted 
 with their cuftoms and ufages, religious and civil ; 
 their fyftem of legiflation and police, as well as their 
 mod ancient and prefent traditions and hiftory. 
 Thefe men thus enlightened and infl:ru61:ed would be 
 qualified to judge equitably, and when returned to 
 us, to make true and jufl reports, which might 
 aififl the legiflature of the United States to form, 
 and offer to them, a judicious plan for their civili- 
 zation and union with us. 
 
 But I prefume not to dictate in thefe high concerns 
 of government, and I am fully convinced that fuch 
 important matters are far above my ability ; the 
 duty and refpeft we owe to religion and rectitude, 
 the mod acceptable incenfe we offer to the Almighty, 
 as an atonement for our negligence in the care of 
 the prefent and future well being of our Indian bre- 
 thren, induce me to mention this matter, though 
 perhaps of greater concernment than we generally 
 are aware. 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
"*'■ s.'J,./,„ 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 CHAP. L 
 
 The author fets fail from Philadelphia ^ and arrives at 
 Charleflon^ from whence he begins his travels. 
 
 At the requefl of Dr. Fothergill, of London, to 
 fearch the Floridas, and the wellern parts of Ca- 
 roUna and Georgia, for the difcovery of rare and 
 ufeful produftions di nature, chiefly in the vege- 
 table kingdom; in April, 1773, I embarked for 
 Charlerton, South Carolina, on board the brigan- 
 tine Charlellon packet, captain Wright, the brig 
 
 - - - , captain Mafon, being in company with 
 
 us, and bound to the fame port. We had a plea- 
 fant run down the Delaware, 150 miles to cape 
 Henlopen, the two veffels entering the Atlantic to- 
 gether. For the firfl twenty-four hours we had a 
 piofperous gale, and were cheerful and happy in 
 the profped of a quick and pleafant voyage ; but, 
 alas ! how vain and uncertain are human expeda- 
 tions ! how quickly is the flattering fcene chang- 
 ed ! The powerful winds, now rufhing forth from 
 B their 
 
« TRAVELS IN 
 
 their fecret abodes, fuddenly fpread terror and de- 
 vaftation ; and the wide ocean, which, a few mo- 
 ments part, was gentle and placid, is now thrown 
 into diforder, and heaped into mountains, whofe 
 white curling crefts feem to fweep the fkies ! 
 
 This furious gale continued near two days and 
 nights, and not a Httle damaged our fails, cabin 
 furniture, and ftate-rooms, befides retarding our 
 paiTage. The florm having abated, a lively gale 
 from N. W. continued four or five days, when 
 fliifting to N. and laftly to N. E. on the tenth of 
 our departure from cape Henlopen, early in the 
 morning, we defcried a fail aflern, and in a Ihoit 
 time difcovered it to be capt. Mafon, who foon 
 came up with us. We hailed each other, being 
 joyful to meet again after fo many dangers. He 
 fuffered greatly by the gale, but providentially 
 made a good harbour within cape Hatteras. As he 
 ran by us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bafs, 
 a large and delicious fifh, having caught a great 
 number of them whilll he was detained in harbour. 
 He got into Charleflon that evening, and we the 
 next morning, about eleven o'clock. 
 
 There are few objeds out at fea to attract the 
 notice of the traveller, but what are fublime, aw- 
 ful, and majeflic : the feas themfelves, in a tem- 
 ped, exhibit a tremendous fcene, where the winds 
 affert their power, and, in furious conflict, feem to 
 fet the ocean on fire. On the other hand, nothing 
 can be more fublime than the view of the encircling 
 horizon, after the turbulent winds have taken their 
 flight, and the lately agitated bofom of the deep has 
 again become calm and pacific ; the gentle moon 
 lifing in dignity from the eaft, attended by thou- 
 Lnds of glittering orbs : the luminous appearance 
 
 of 
 
NORTH A.MERiCA- 3 
 
 of the feas at night, when all the waters feem tranf- 
 muted into liquid filver ; the prodigious bands of 
 porpoifes foreboding temped, that appear to cover 
 the ocean ; the mighty whale, fovereign of the wa- 
 tery realms, who cleaves the feas in his courfe ; the 
 fudden appearance of land from the fea, the ftrand 
 ftretching each way, beyond the utmofl reach of 
 fight J the alternate appearance and recefs of the 
 coaft, whilil the far diltant blue hills flowly retreat 
 and difappear ; or, as we approach the coaft, the 
 capes and promontories firft ftrike our fi ^ht, emerg- 
 ing from the watery expanfe, and, like mighty gi- 
 ants, elevating tl^eir crefts towards the fkies ; the 
 water fuddenly alive with its fcaly inhabitants ^ 
 fquadrons of fea-fowl fweeping through the air, im- 
 pregnated with the breath of fragrant aromatic trees 
 and flowers ; the amplitude and magnificence of 
 thefe fcenes arc great indeed, and may i '-e'ent to the 
 imagination, an idea of the firfl: appearance of the 
 earth to man at the creation. 
 
 On my arrival at Charlefton, I waited on do6tor 
 Chalmer, a gentleman of eminence in his profeilion 
 and public employments, to whom I was recom- 
 mended by my worthy patron, and to whom I was 
 to apply for counfel and aflillance, for carrying into 
 eftedl my intended travels. The dodor received me 
 with perfeft politenefs, and, on every occafion, 
 treated me with friendfhip ; and by means of the 
 countenance which he gave me, and the marks of 
 efteem with which he honoured me, I became ac- 
 quainted with many of the worthy families, not only 
 of Carolina and Georgia, but alfo in the diflant 
 countries of Florida. 
 
 a a CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. ir. 
 
 ARRTv'iNG in Carolina very early in the fpring, 
 •vegetation was not fufficiently advanced to invite 
 me into the weftern parts of this flate ; from which 
 circumflance, I concluded to make an excurfion 
 into Georgia ; accordingly, 1 embarked on board a 
 coafling vellel, and in twenty four hours arrived in 
 Savanna, the capital, where, acquainting the go- 
 vernor, Sir J. Wright, with my bufmefs, his ex- 
 cellency received me with great politenefs, fliewed 
 me every mark of efleem and regard, and furnifli- 
 ed me with letters to the principal inhabitants of the 
 flate, which were of great fervice to me. Another 
 circumflance very opportunely occurred on my arri- 
 val : the aflenibly was then fitting in Savanna, and 
 feveral m<;mbers lodging in the fame houfe where I 
 took up my quarters, I became acquainted with fe- 
 veral worthy charaders, who invited me to call at 
 their feats occafionaily, as I palled through the coun- 
 try j particularly the hon. B. Andrews, efq. a dif- 
 tinguiflied, patriotic, and liberal charafter. This 
 gentleman's feat, and well cultivated plantations, 
 arc fituated near the fouth high road, which I often 
 travelled ; and I feldom paifed his houfe without 
 calling to fee him, for it was the feat of virtue, 
 where h.fpitality, piety, and philofophy, formed 
 the happy family ; where the weary traveller and 
 flranger found a hearty welcome, and from whence 
 it muft be his own fault if he departed without being 
 greatlv benefited. 
 
 After 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 5 
 
 After reding, and a little recreation for a few 
 days in Savanna, and having in the mean time 
 purchafed a good horfe, and equipped myfelf for a 
 journey fouthvvard, I fet oil' early in the morninpf 
 for Sunbury, a fea-port town, beautifully fituated 
 on the main, between Medway and Newport ri- 
 vers, about fifteen miles fouth of ^reat Ogeeche 
 river. The town and harbour are defended from 
 the furv of the feas by the north and fouth points 
 of St. Helena and South Catharine's illands ; be- 
 tween which is the bar and entrance into the found : 
 the harbour is capacious and fafe, and has water 
 enough for (liips of great burthen. I arrived here 
 in the evening, in company with a gentleman, one 
 of the inhabitants, who politely introduced me to 
 one of the principal families, where I fuppcd and 
 fpent the evening in a circle of genteel and polite 
 ladies and gentlem.en. Next day, being defirous of 
 vifiting the iflands, I forded a narrow flioal, part 
 of the found, and landed on one of them, which 
 employed me the whole day to explore. The fur- 
 face and vegetable mould here is generally a loofc 
 fand, not very fertile, except fome fpots bordering 
 on the found and inlets, where are found heaps .or 
 mounds of fea-fliell, either formerly brought there 
 by the Indians, who inhabited the ifland, or which, 
 were perhaps thrown up in ridges, by the beadng 
 furface of the fea: poflibly both thefe circumftances 
 may have contributed to their formation. Thefe 
 fea fhells, through length of tinffe, and the fubtle 
 penetrating cfleds of the air, which diflblve them 
 to earth, render thefe ridges very fertile; and, 
 when clear of their trees, and culdvated, they 
 become profufely produdive of almoin every kind 
 of vegetable. Here arc alfo large plantations of 
 
 indio;o.. 
 
O TRAVELS IN 
 
 indigo, corn, and potatoes*, with inany other forts 
 of efculent plants. I obferved, amongll the (hells 
 of the conical mounds, fragments of earthen vef- 
 fels, and of other utenfils, the manufa6lure of the 
 ancients : about the centre of one of them, the rim 
 of an earthen pot appeared amongft the Ihells and 
 earth, which I carefully removed, and drew it out, 
 almoft whole : this pot was curioufly wrought all 
 over the outfide, reprefenting baiket work, and was 
 undoubtedly efteemed a very ingenious perform- 
 ance, by the people, at the age of its conliru6lion. 
 The natural produce of thefe teflaceous ridges, be- 
 fides many of lefs note, are, the great Laurel Tree, 
 (Magnolia grandiflora) Pinus taeda, Laurus Bor- 
 bonia, Quercus fempervirens, or Live Oak, Prunus 
 Lauro-cerafus, Ilex aquifolium, Corypha palma, 
 Juniperus Americana. The general lurface of the 
 illand being low, and generally level, produces a 
 very great variety of trees, flirubs, and Jierbaceous 
 plants ; particularly the great long-leaved Pitch- 
 Pine, or Broom-Pine, Pinus paluflris, Finus fqua- 
 mofa, Pinus lutea, Gordonla Lafianthus, Liquid 
 ambar (Styraciflua) Acer rubrum, Fraxinus excel- 
 cior, Fraxinus aquatica, Quercus aquatica, Ouercus 
 phillos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila varietas, 
 Vaccinium varietas, Andromeda varietas, Prinos va- 
 rietas. Ilex varietas, Viburnum prunifoUum, V. den- 
 tatum, Cornus florida, C. alba, C. fanguinea, Car- 
 pinus betula, C. oftrya, Itea Clethra alnifolia, Hale- 
 fia tetraptera, H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus frangula, 
 Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindus, CalTnie, and of 
 fuch as grow near water-courfes, round about 
 ponds and favannas, Fothergilla gardini, Myrica 
 cerifera, Olea Americana, Cvrilla racemiflora^ 
 
 * Convolvulus batata. 
 
 Magnoli: 
 
NOR,TH AMERICA. 7 
 
 Magnolia glauca. Magnolia pyramidita, Cercis, 
 Ralmia augultifolia, Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthus, 
 Cephalanthos, vEfculus parva ; and the interme- 
 diate fpaces, furrounding and lying between riie 
 ridges and favamias, are interfe(5led with plains of 
 the dwarf prickly fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawns 
 of grafs variegated with (lately trees of the great 
 Broom-Pine, and the fpreading ever-green Water- 
 Oak, either difpofed in - clumps, or fcatteringly 
 planted by nature. The upper furface, or vegeta- 
 tive foil of the ifland, lies on a foundation, or ftra- 
 tum, of tenacious cinereous-coloured clay, whicii 
 perhaps is the principal fupport of the vail grovvtU 
 of timber that arifes from the furface, which is lit- 
 tle more than a mixture of fine white fand and dif- 
 folved vegetables, ferving as a nurfery bed to hatch 
 or bring into exillence the infant plant, and to fup- 
 ply it vvith aliment and food, fuitable to its delicacy 
 and tender frame, until the roots, acquiring fufli- 
 cient extent and folidity to lay hold of the clay, foon 
 attain a magnitude and (lability fufHcient to main- 
 tain its (lation. Probably if this clay were dug out 
 and cafl upon the furface, after being meliorated by 
 the faline or nitrous qualities of the air, it would 
 kindly incorporate with the loofe fand, and become 
 a produclive and lading manure. 
 
 The roebuck, or deer, are numerous on thi-' 
 ifland ; the tyger, wolf, and bear, hold yet fomc 
 poileflion ; as alio raccoons, foxes, hares, fquirrels, 
 rats, and mice, but I think no mole;. There is a 
 large ground rat, Diore than twice the (ize of the 
 common Norway rat. Jn the night time it throws 
 out the earth, forming .little mounds, or hillocks, 
 oppofTums are here in abundance, as alfo pole-CcUs, 
 wild-cats, rattle-fnakes, glafs-fnake, clach-wTiip 
 fnake, and a variety of otlu-^.r fc-rpcnt';. 
 
 ITer- 
 
8 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Here are alfo a great variety of birds, throughout 
 the feafons, inhabiting both fea and land. Firfl: I 
 iliall name the eagle, of which there are three fpe- 
 cies. The great grey eagle is the largeft, of great 
 ftrength and high flight ; he chiefly preys on fawns 
 and other young quadrupeds. 
 
 The bald eagle is likewife a large, ftrong, and 
 very adive bird, but an execrable tyrant : he fup- 
 ports his aflTumed dignity and grandeur by rapine 
 and violence, extorting unreafonable tribute and fub- 
 fidy from all the feathered nations. 
 
 The lafl: of this race I fhall mention is the falco 
 pifcatorius, or fifhing-hawk. : this is a large bird, of 
 high and rapid flight ; his wings are very long and 
 pointed, and he fpreads a vaft fail, in proportion to 
 the volume of his body. This princely bird fubfifts 
 entirely on filh which he takes himfelf, fcorning to 
 live and grow fat on the dear earned labours of ano- 
 ther ; he alfo contributes liberally to the fupport of 
 the bald eagle. 
 
 Water-fowl, and the various fpecies of land-birds, 
 alfo abound, mod of which are mentioned by Ca- 
 tefby, in his Hift. of Carolina, particularly his paint- 
 ed finch (Emberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded by none 
 of the feathered tribes, either in variety and Iplen- 
 dour of drefs, or melody of fong. 
 
 Catefoy's ground doves are alfo here in abund- 
 ance : they are remarkably beautiful, about the fizc 
 of a fparrow, and their foft and plaintive cooing per- 
 fedly enchanting. 
 
 Hov/ chafte the dove! " never known to vlclue the conjugal 
 
 contract." 
 She flees the feats of envy and ftrife, and feeks the retired paths 
 
 of peace. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 9 
 
 The fight of this delightful and produ(5tive ifland, 
 placed in front of the rifing city of Sunbury, 
 quickly induced me to explore it ; which I appre- 
 hended, from former vifits to this coaft, would ex- 
 hibit a comprehenfive epitome of the hiftory of all 
 the fea-coafl iflands of Carolina and Georgia, as 
 likewife in general of the coaft of the main. And 
 though I confidered this excurfion along the coaft 
 of Georgia and northern border of Florida, a de- 
 viation from the high road of my intended travels, 
 yet I performed it in oidcr to employ to the moft 
 advantage the time on my hands, before the treaty 
 ot Augufta came on, where I was to attend, about 
 May or June, by defirc of the Superintendant, J. 
 Stewart, cfq. who, when I was in Cliai lefton, pro- 
 pofed, in order to facilitate my travels in the Indiari 
 territories, that, if 1 would be prcfeut at the Con- 
 grcfs, he would introduce my bufmcfs to the chiefs 
 of the Cherokees, Creeks, and other nations, and 
 recommend me to their friendfhip and protetllon j 
 which promife he fully pel formed, and it proved of 
 great fervice to me. 
 
 Obedient to the admonitions of my attendant 
 fpirit, curiofity, as well as to gratify the expe(5ta- 
 tions of my worthy patron, I again fet oft' on my 
 fouthern excurfion, and left Sunbury, in company 
 with feveral of its polite inhabitants, who were going 
 to Medway meeting, a very large and well con- 
 ftrufted place of worfliip, in St. John's parifti, 
 where I aflbciated with them in rehgious exercife, 
 and heard a very excellent fermon, delivered by 
 their pious and truly venerable paftor, the Rev. 
 
 Ofgood. This rcfpeclable congregation is 
 
 independent, and ccnfirt chiefly of families, and 
 
 profclytes , 
 
to TRAVELS IN 
 
 profelytes to a flock, which this pious man led 
 about forty years ago, from South Carolina, and 
 fettled in this fruitful difirid:. It is about nine 
 miles from Sunbury to Medway meeting-houfe, 
 ■which ftands on the high road oppofite the Sun- 
 bury road. As foon as the congregation broke up, 
 1 re-alfumed my travels, proceeding down the high 
 road towards Fort Barrington, on the Alatamaha, 
 palling through a level country, well watered by 
 large ftreams, branches of Medway and Newport 
 rivers, courfmg from extenfive fwamps and marfhes, 
 their fources : thefe fwamps are daily clearing 
 and improving into large fruitful rice plantations, 
 aggrandizing the well inhabited and rich diftrict of 
 St. John's parifli. The road is ftraight, fpacious, , 
 and kept in excellent repair by the induftrious in-, 
 habitants ; and is generally bordered on each fide 
 with a light grove, confiding of the following trees 
 and fhrubs : Myrica, Cerifera, Calycanthus, Haleiia 
 tetraptera, Itea, ftewartia, Andromeda nitida, Cy- 
 rella racemiflora, entwined with bands and gar- 
 lands of Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Lo- 
 nicera, fempervirens and Glycene frutefcens ; thefe 
 were overfhadowed by tall and fpreading trees, as 
 the Magnolia grandiiiora. Liquid ambar, Lirio- 
 dendron, Catalpa, Quercus fempervirens, Quercus 
 dentata, Q^ Phillos ; and on the verges of the 
 canals, where the road was caufwayed, flood 
 the Cupref/us diflicha, Gordonia Lacianthus, and 
 Magnolia glauca, all planted by nature, and left 
 {landing, by the virtuous inhabitants, to Ihade the 
 road, and perfume the fultry air. The extenfive 
 plantations of rice and corn, now in early ver- 
 dure, decorated here and there with groves of flo- 
 liferous and fragrant trecr, and ilirubs, under the 
 
 cover 
 
NORTH AMERICA. II 
 
 cover and protedion of pyramidal laurels and 
 plumed palms, which now and then break through 
 upon the fight from both fides of the way as we 
 pafs along ; the eye at intervals Healing a view at 
 the humble, but elegant and neat habitation, of the 
 happy proprietor, amidft arbours and groves, all 
 day, and moon-light nights, filled with the melody 
 of the cheerful mockbird, warbling nonpareil, and 
 plaintive turtle-dove, altogether prefent a view of 
 magnificence and joy, inexpreffibly charming and 
 animating. 
 
 In the evening I arrived at the feat of the Hon. 
 B. Andrews, efq. who received and entertained me 
 in every refpedl, as a worthy gentleman could a 
 ftranger, that is, with hearty welcome, plain but 
 plentiful board, free converfation and liberaUty of 
 fentiment. I fpent the evening very agreeably, and 
 the day following (for I was not permitted to de- 
 part fooner) : I viewed with plcafure this gentleman's 
 exemplary improvements in agriculture ; particu- 
 larly in the growth of rice, and in his machines for 
 /helling that valuable grain, which ftands in the 
 water almofl from the time it is fown, until within 
 a few days before it is reaped, when they draw otT 
 the water by fluices, which ripens it all ar once, and 
 when the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reaped 
 and left (landing in the field, in fmall ricks, until 
 the ftraw is quite dry, when it is hauled, and ftack- 
 ed in the barn yard. The machines for cleaning 
 tlie rice are worked by the iorcc of water. They 
 (land on the great refer voir which contains the 
 waters that flood the rice fields below. 
 
 Towards the evening we made a little party at 
 fiftiing. We chofe a (haded retreat, in a beautiful 
 grove of magnolias, myrtles, and fweet bay trees, 
 
 which 
 
12 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which were left (landing on the bank of a fine 
 creek, that, from this place, took a flow ferpen- 
 tine courfe through the plantation. "VVe prefently 
 tookfome fifh, one kind of which is very beautiful ; 
 they call it the red-belly. It is as large as a man's 
 hand, nearly oval and thin, being compreffed on 
 each fide ; the tail is beautifully formed ; the top 
 of the head and back of an olive green, befprinkled 
 with rulfet fpecks ; the fides of a fea green, inclin- 
 ing to azure, infenfibly blended with the olive 
 above, and beneath lightens to a filvery white, or 
 pearl colour, elegantly powdered with fpecks of the 
 fined green, ruffet and gold ; the belly is of a bright 
 fcarlet red, or vermilion, darting up rays or fiery 
 ftreaks into the pearl on each fide ; the ultimate 
 angle of the branchiodega extends backwards with 
 a long fpatula, ending v/ith a round or oval parti- 
 coloured fpot, representing the eye in the long 
 feathers of a peacock's train, verged round with a 
 thin flame-coloured membrane, and appears like a 
 brilliant ruby fixed on the fide of the filh ; the 
 eyes are large, encircled with a fiery iris , they are 
 a voracious fifti, and are eafily caught with a fuit- 
 able bait. 
 
 The next morning I took leave of this worthy 
 family, and fet off for the fettlements on the Ala- 
 tamaha, ffill purfuing the high road for Fort Bar- 
 riu'^ton, till towards noon, when I turned off to 
 the left, following the road to Darian, a fettlement 
 on the river twenty miles lower down, and near 
 the coafl. The fore part of this day's journey was 
 pleafant, the plantations frequent, and the roads in 
 tolerriblc good repair ; but the country being now 
 lefs cultivated, the roads became bad. I purfued 
 my journey almoft continually through fv.amps and 
 creeks, waters of Newport and Sapeilo, till night, 
 
 when 
 
I 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. J3 
 
 when I loft my way ; but coming up to a fence, I 
 faw a glimmering light, which conducled me to a 
 houfe, where I ftayed all night, and met with very 
 civil entertainment. Early next morning I fet off 
 again, in company with the overfeer of the farm, 
 who piloted me through a large and diflicult fwamp, 
 when we parted ; he in chafe of deer, and I to- 
 wards Darian. I rode feveral miles through a high 
 foreft of pines, thinly growing on a level plain, 
 which admitted an ample view, and a free circula- 
 tion of air, to another fwamp ; and crolling a con- 
 fiderable branch of Sapello river, I then came to a 
 fmall plantation by the fide of another fwamp : the 
 people were remarkably civil and hofpitable. The 
 man's name was M'Intoih, a family of the firft co- 
 lony eflabHflied in Georgia, under the conduct of 
 general Oglethorpe. Was there ever fuch a fcenc 
 of primitive fnnplicity, as was here exhibited, fmce 
 the days of the good king Tammany. The vener- 
 able grey-headed Caledonian fmilingly meets me 
 coming up to his houfe. " Welcome, Itranger ; 
 come in, a>nd reft ; the air is now very fultry ; it 
 is a very hot day.'* I was there treated with fome 
 excellent venifon, and here found friendly and fe- 
 cure ftielter from a tremendous thunder ftorm, which 
 came up from the N. W. and foon afler my arrival 
 began to difcharge its fury all around. Stepping 
 to the door to obferve the progrefs and diredion 
 of the tempeft, the fulgour and rapidity of the 
 Itreams of lightning, paffing from cloud to cloud, 
 and from the clouds to the earih, exhibited a very 
 awful fcene ; when inftantly the lightning, as it 
 were, opening a fiery chafm in the black cloud, 
 darted with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of a 
 large pine tree, that ftood thirty or forty yards from 
 me, and fct it in a blaze. The flame inftantly 
 
 afcended 
 
14 TRAVELS IN 
 
 afcended upwards of ten or twelve feet, and conti- 
 nued flaming about fifteen minutes, when it was 
 gradually extlnguifncd by the deluges of rain that 
 fell upon it. 
 
 I faw here a remarkably large turkey of 'the na. 
 tive wild breed : his head was above three feet 
 from the ground when he flood ereft ; he was a 
 ftately beautiful bird, of a very dark dufky brown 
 colour, the tips of the feathers of his neck, breaft, 
 back, and flioulders, edged with a copper colour, 
 which in a certain expofure looked like burnifhed 
 gold, and he feemed not infenfible of the fplendid 
 appearance he made. He was reared from an eggy 
 found in the foreft, and hatched by a hen of the 
 common domeflic fowl. 
 
 Our turkey of America is a very different fpe- 
 cies from the meleagris of Afia and Europe ; they 
 are nearly thrice their fize and weight. 1 have feen 
 feveral that have weighed between twenty and thirty 
 pounds, and feme have been killed that weighed 
 near forty. They are taller, and have a much 
 longer neck propordonally, and likewife longer 
 legs, and ftand more ereft j they are alfo very dif- 
 ferent in colour. Ours are all, male and female, 
 of a dark brown colour, not having a black feather 
 on them ; but the male exceedingly fplendid, with 
 changeable colours. In other particulars they differ 
 not. 
 
 The temped being over, I waited till the floods 
 of rain had run off the ground, then took leave of 
 my friends, and departed. The air was now cool 
 and falubrious, and riding feven or eight miles, 
 through a pine foreft, 1 came to Sapello bridge, 
 to which the fait tide flows. 1 here flopped, at 
 
 Mr, 
 
NORTH AMER'CA. I5 
 
 Mr. Bailey*s, to deliver a letter from the governor. 
 This gentleman received me very civilly, inviting 
 me to flay with him ; but upon my urging the ne- 
 ceflity of my accelerating my journey, he permitted 
 me to proceed to Mr. L. IM'Intolh's, near the river, 
 to vi'hofe friendfhip I v.'^ recommended by Mr. B. 
 Andrews. 
 
 Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intellec- 
 tual enjoyment, which regards human concerns, of 
 a more excellent nature, than the remembrance 
 of real a6ls of fiiendfhip. The heart expands at the 
 pleafing recollet!ilion. When I came up to his door, 
 the friendly man, fmiling, and with a grace and 
 dignity peculiar to himl'elf, took me by the hand, 
 and accofted me thus : " Friend Bartram, come 
 " under my roof, and I defire you to make my houfe 
 " your home, as long as convenient to yourfelf ; re- 
 " member, from this moment, that you are a part 
 *' of my family, and, on my part, I fhall endeavour 
 " to make it agreeable," which was verified du- 
 ring my continuance in, and about, the fouthern 
 territories of Georgia and Florida ; for I found here 
 fincerity in union with all the virtues, under the in- 
 fluence of religion. I fliall yet mention a remarka- 
 ble inftance of Mr. M'Intofli's friendlhip and refped 
 for me ; which was, recommending his eldeft fon, 
 Mr. John M'Into(h, as a companion in my travels. 
 He was a fenfible virtuous youth, and a very agree- 
 able companion through a long and toilfome journey 
 of near a thoufand miles. 
 
 Having been greatly refrefhed, by continuing a 
 few days with this kind and agreeable family, I pre- 
 pared to profecute my journey ibutherly. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
l6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 I Sat off early in the morning for the Indian 
 trading-houfe, in the river St. Mary, and took the 
 road up the N. E. fide of the Alatamaha to Fort-Bar- 
 rington. 1 pafled through a well inhabited diftritt, 
 moftly rice plantations, on the waters of Cathead 
 creek, a branch of the Alatamaha. On drawing 
 near the fort, I was greatly delighted at the appear- 
 ance of two new beautiful fhrubs, in all their bloom- 
 ing graces. One of them appeared to be a fpecies 
 of Gordonia * but the flowers are larger, and more 
 fragrant than thofe of the Gordonia, Lafcanthus, 
 and are feffile ; the feed veffel is alfo very different. 
 The other was equally diftinguiflied for beauty and 
 fmgularity ; it grows twelve or fifteen feet high, the 
 branches afcendant and oppofite, and terminate with 
 large panicles of pale blue tubular flowers, fpeckled 
 on the infide with crimfon ; but, what is fmgular, 
 thefe panicles are ornamented with a number of 
 ovate large braftese, as white, and like fine paper, 
 their tops and verges fl:ained with a rofe red, which, 
 at a little diftance, has the appearance of clufl:ers of 
 rofes, at the extremities of the limbs : the flowers 
 are of the CI. Pentandria monogynia ; the leaves 
 are nearly ovate, pointed and petioled, {landing op- 
 pofite to one another on the branches. 
 
 After fifteen miles riding, I arrived at the ferry, 
 
 which is near the fite of the fort. Here is a confi- 
 derable height and bluff on the river, and evident 
 
 * Franklinia Ajatahama 
 
 vefl:iges 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 1'] 
 
 veftiges of an ancient Indian to\vn may be feen,' 
 fuch as old extenfive fields, and conical moujids, 
 or artificial heaps of earth. I here croffed the ri- 
 ver, which is about five hundred yards over, in a 
 good large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, who 
 was married to a white woman ; he feemed an ac- 
 tive, civil, and fenfible man. I faw large, tall trees 
 of theNyffa coccinea, fi. Ogeeche, growing en the 
 banks of the river- They grow in the water, near 
 the fliore. There is no tree th^t exhibits a more 
 defirable appearance than tliis, a\ nhe autumn, 
 when the fruit is ripe, and the tree diverted of its 
 leaves ; for then they lock as red as fcailct, with 
 their fruit, which is of that colour aHo. It is of 
 the fhape, but larger than the olive, containing an 
 agreeable acid juice. The leaves are oblorg lan- 
 ceolate and entire, fomewhat hoary underneatn ; 
 their upper furface of a full green, and Ihining ; 
 the petioles fliort, pedunculis multifloris. The molt 
 northern fettlemcnt of this tree, yet known, is on 
 Great Ogeeche, where they are calle.i Ogeeche 
 limes, from their acid fruit being about the fize c£ 
 limes, and their being fometimcs ufed in their 
 flead. 
 
 Being fafely landed on the oppofite bank, I 
 mounted my horfe, and followed the high road to 
 the ferry on St. Ille, about fixty miles fouth of the 
 Alatamaha, palling through an uninhabited wilder- 
 nefs. The fuddcn traniition from rich uncultivated 
 fettlements, to high pine forefts, dark and graffy 
 favannas, forms in my opinion no difagreeable con- 
 traits ; and the new objeds of obfervation in the 
 works of nature foon reconcile the furprifed ima- 
 gination to the change. As foon as I had loft fight 
 of the river, afcending fome iand-hill:i, I obferved 
 
 C a new 
 
l8 TRAVELS ]N 
 
 a new and moft beautiful fpecies of Annona, hav- 
 ing cluftef s of large white fragrant flowers ; and a 
 diminutive but elegant Kalmia. The (terns are 
 very fmall, feeble, and for the mofl part undivided, 
 furnifhed with little ovate pointed leaves, and ter- 
 minate with a fimple racemi, or fpike of flowers,- 
 falver formed, and of a deep rofe red. The whole 
 plant is ciliated. It grows in abundance all over 
 the moifl: favannas, but more efpecialiy near ponds 
 and bay-fwamp.>. In fimilar fituations, and com- 
 monly a near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is feen 
 a very cuiious fpecies of Annona. It is very dwarf, 
 the Pccms feldo;n extending from the earth more 
 than a foot or eighteen inches, and are weak and 
 almoil decumbent. The leaves are long, extremely 
 narrow, almofl lineal. However, fmall as they are, 
 they retain the figure common to the fpecies, that 
 is, lanceolate, broadeft at the upper end, and atte- 
 nuating down to the petiole, which is very fliort , 
 their leaves fl.and alternately, nearly ereft, forming 
 two fcries, or wings, on the arcuated ftems. The 
 flov^ers, both in fizc and colour, refemble thofe of 
 the Antiilobe, and are Tingle from the axiilas of the 
 leaves on incurved penduncull, nodding downwards. 
 I never faw the fruit. The dens, or caverns, dug 
 in the fand-hilis, by the great land-tortoife, called 
 here Gopher"^, preient a* very lingular appearance: 
 ihefe vail caves are their caftles and diurnal retreats, 
 from <vhence tiiey iflue forth in the night, in fearch 
 ©f prey. The little mounds, or hillocks of frefli 
 earth, thrown up in great numbers in the night, 
 have alfo a cujIous appearance. 
 
 In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, where 
 there was a habitation, and the people received me 
 
 * Toiludo Polyphfmus. 
 
 very 
 
J'l.J 
 
 
17. Z. 
 
 C V////<'V/a (//y///y//u>jrr,^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 1 9 
 
 very civilly. I ftaid here all night, and had for 
 fupper plenty of milk, butter, and very good cheefe 
 of their own make, which is a novelty in the mari- 
 time parts of Carolina and Georgia ; the inhabitants 
 being chiefly fupplied with it from Europe and the 
 northern dates. The next day's progrels, in ge- 
 neral, prefentcd fcenes fimilar to the preceding, 
 though the land is lower, more level and humid, 
 and the produce more varied : high open forefts of 
 ftately pines, flowery plains, and exjenfive green 
 favannas, chequered with the incarnate Chironia 
 pulcherrima, and Afclepias fragrans, perfumed the 
 air whilfl they pleafed the eye. I met with forae 
 troublefome cane fwamps, law herds of horned 
 cattle, horfes and deer, and took notice of a pro- 
 cumbent fpecics of Hibifcus, the leaves palmated, 
 the flowers large and expanded, pale yellow and^ 
 white, having a deep crimfon eye ; the whole plant, 
 except the corolla, armed with ftifF hair. I alio 
 faw a beautiful fpecies of Lupin, having pale 
 green villous Hngulate * leaves; the flowers are 
 difpofed in long ercft fpikes ; fome plants produce 
 flowers of the fincll celeflial blue, others incarnate, 
 and fome milk white, and though they all three 
 feem to be varieties of one fpecies, yet they aflbci- 
 ate in feparate communities, fomctimcs approach- 
 ing near each other's border, or in fight at a dif- 
 tance. Their diflrids are fltuated on dry fandy 
 heights, in open pine foreili', which are naturally 
 thin of undergrowth, and appear to great advan- 
 tage ; generally where they are found, they occu- 
 py many acres of furface. The vegetative mould 
 is compofed of fine white fand, mixed, and colour- 
 ed, with diilolvedand calcined vegetable fubflancesj 
 
 * Liijinus brcur.is, foliis integerhnisoblongisvillolis. 
 
 C 2 bui- 
 
id TRAVELS m 
 
 but this {Iratum is not very deep, and covers one of 
 a tenacious cinereous coloured clay, as we may ob- 
 ferve by the earth adhering to the roots of trees, 
 torn up by ftorms, &c. and by the little chimnies, 
 or air holes * f cray-fifh, which perforate the favan- 
 nas. Turkeys, quails, and fmall birds, are here to 
 be (een ; but birds are not numerous in defert fo- 
 refts ; they draw near to the habitations of men, as 
 I have conftantly obferved in all my travels. 
 
 I arrived at St. Ille*s in the evening, where I 
 lodged ; and next morning, having croffed over in a 
 ferry boat, fet forward for St. Mary's. The fitua- 
 tion of the territory, its foil and productions, be- 
 tween thefe two lall rivers, are nearly fimilar to 
 ihofe which I had paffed over, except that the fa- 
 vannas are more frequent and extenfive. 
 
 It may be propjsr to obferve, that I had now 
 paffed the utmoft frontier of the white fettlements 
 un that border. It was drawing on towards the 
 clofe of day, the jTs:ies ferene and calm, the air tem- 
 perately cool, and gentle zephyrs breathing through 
 the fragrant pines ; the profpeft around enchant- 
 ingly varied and beautiful ; endlefs green favannas, 
 chequered with coppices of fragrant fhrubs, filled 
 the air with the richeft perfume. The gaily attired 
 plants which enamelled the green had begun to im- 
 bibe the pearly dew of evening ; nature feemed 
 lilent, and nothing appeared to ruffle the happy 
 moments of evening contemplation ; when, on a 
 fudden, an Indian appeared crofling the path, at a 
 coniiderable diftance before me. On perceiving 
 that he was armed with a rifle, the firft fight of him 
 itartled me, and I endeavoured to elude his fight, 
 by (lopping my pace, and keeping large trees be- 
 tween us J but he efpied me, and turning fhort 
 
 about. 
 
J.'ORTM AMERICA. il 
 
 about, fet fpurs to his horfe, and came up on full 
 gallop. I never before this was afraid at the fight 
 of an Indian, but at this time, I mull own that my 
 ipirits were very much agitated : I faw at once, 
 that being unarmed, I was in his power ; and hav- 
 ing now but a few moments to prepare, 1 refigned 
 myfelf entirely to the will of the Almighty, truft- 
 ing to his mercies for my pvefervation : my mind 
 then became tranquil, and I refolvcd to meet the 
 dreaded foe with reiolution and chearful confi- 
 dence. The intrepid Siminole ftopped fuddenly, 
 three or four yards before me, and filently viewed 
 me, his countenance angry and tierce, fhifling his 
 rifle from fhoulder to fhoulder, and looking about 
 inftantly on all fides. I advanced towards him, and 
 with an air of confidence offered him my hand, 
 baiUng him, brother ; at this he haftily jerked 
 back his arm, with a look of malice, rage, and dif- 
 dain, feeming every way difcontented ; when again 
 looking at me more attentively, he inftantly fpurred 
 up to me, and with dignity in his look and aclion, 
 gave me his hand. Poflibly the filent language of 
 his foul, during the moment of^ fufpenfe (for 1 be- 
 lieve his defign was to kill me when he firit came 
 up) was after this manner : " White man, thou 
 " art my ejiemy, and thou and thy brethren may 
 *' ha.ve killed .mine ; yet it mav noi. be fo, and even 
 " were that the cafe, thou art now alone, and in 
 " my power. Live ; the great Spirit forbids me 
 " to touch thy life ; go to thy brethren, tell them 
 '' thou faweft an Indian in the forells, who knew 
 " how to be humane and compaiEonate.^' in tine, 
 we (hook hands, and parted in a friendly manner, 
 in the midft ot a dreary wildernefs j and he inform- 
 ed me of the courfe and diftance to the trading- 
 houfe, where I found he had been extremely ill- 
 treated the day before. 
 
 I now 
 
22 TRAVELS INT, 
 
 I now fat forward again, and after eight or ten 
 miles riding, arrived at the banks of St. Rlary's, op- 
 pofite the liores, and got fafe over before dark. 
 The river is here about one hundred yards acrofs, 
 has ten feet water, and, following its courfe, about 
 fixty miles to the fea, though but about twenty 
 miles by land. The trading company here received 
 and treated me with great civility. On relating 
 my adventures on the road, particularly the lafl: 
 with the Indian, the chief replied, with a counte- 
 nance that at once befpoke furprife and pleafure, 
 " My friend, confider yourfelf a fortunate man : 
 " that fellow,'* faid he, " is one of the greatefl vil- 
 " lains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed 
 *' by his countrymen. Lafl evening he was here, 
 *' we took his gun from him, broke it in pieces, 
 " and gave him a fevere drubbing : he, however, 
 *' made his efcape, carrying off a new rifle gun, 
 " with which, he faid, ^oing off, he would kill 
 '* the firfl white man he met." 
 
 On ferioufly contemplating the behaviour of this 
 Indian towards me, fo foon after his ill treatment, 
 the following train of fentiments infenfibly crowded 
 in upon my mind. 
 
 Can it be denied, but that the moral prineiple. 
 which direds the favages to virtuous and praife- 
 worthy aftions, is natural or innate ? It is certaii. 
 they have not the afliftance of letters, or thofe 
 means of education in the fchools of philofophy, 
 where the virtuous fentiments and aiflions of the 
 moft illuftrious charafters are recorded, and care- 
 fully laid before the youth of civilized nations : 
 therefore this moral principle muft be tnnate, or 
 they mud be under the immediate influence and 
 guidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor. 
 
 who. 
 
NORTH AMEPvICA. CJ 
 
 who, on thefe occafiohs, inftantly infpircs them, 
 and as with a ray of divine light, points out to them 
 at once the dignity, propriety, i\nd beauty of vir- 
 tue. 
 
 The land on, and rfdjaccnt to, this river, not- 
 withftanding its arenaceous furface, appears natu- 
 rally fertile. The peach trees are large, healthy, 
 and fruitful ; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, and 
 indigo, thrive exceedingly. This fandy furface, 
 one vvould fuppoi'c, from its loofe texture, would 
 poflefs a percolating quality, and fuffer the ruin- 
 waters quickly to drain off; but it is quite the con- 
 trary, at Icaft in thefe low maritime fandy coun- 
 tries of Carolina and Florida, beneath the moun- 
 tains ; for in the fands, even the heights, where the 
 arenaceous firatum is perhaps five, eight, and ten 
 feet above the clay, the earth, even in the longcit 
 droughts, is moifl an inch or two under the furface ; 
 whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at fuch 
 times, the ground is dry, and, as it were, baked ma- 
 ny inches, and fometimes fome feet deep, and the 
 crops, as well as ahnoll nil vegetation, fuffer in 
 fuch foils and fituations. The reafon of this may- 
 be, that this kind of earth admits more frcelv of a 
 tranfpiration of vapours, arifmg from inteftine wa- 
 tery canals to the furface ; and probably thefe va- 
 pours are impregnated with faline or nitrous prin- 
 ciples, friendly and nutritive to vegetables ; how- 
 ever, of thefe caufes and fecret operations of nature 
 I am ignorant, and lefume again niy proper eni- 
 ploymenr, that of difcovering and colleding data 
 for theexercife of more able phyfiologiffs. 
 
 The favannas about St. Mary's, at this feafon, 
 difplay a very charming appearance of flowers and 
 yerdure \ their more elevated borders are varied 
 
 with 
 
fl4 TRAVEr.S IN 
 
 wi-th beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamafco, 
 and plants of a new and very beautiful fpecies of 
 Mimofa lenfitiva, which I think as admirable and 
 more charming than the celebrated Humble plant, 
 equally chafle and fearful of the hafty touch of the 
 furprifed admirer. The flower is larger, of a bright 
 damafk rofe colour, and exceedingly fragrant : the 
 whole plant is deftitute of prickles, but hairy : it is 
 procumbent, reclining itfelf upon the green turf, 
 and from thefe trailing branches proceeds an upright 
 peduncle, fix or eight inches high, fupporting an 
 oblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at a 
 imall diflance, have the appearance of an exuber- 
 ant field of clover ; and, what is fmgular, and 
 richly varies the fcene, there are interfpetfed 
 patches of the fame fpecies of plants, having flowers 
 of the fined golden yellow, and others fnow white ; 
 but the incarnate is mofl prevalent. Magnolia 
 glauca, Itea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia lafi- 
 anthus. Hex auguilifolium, Olea Americana, Ho- 
 pea tincloria, &c. are feated in detached groves 
 or clumps, round about the ponds or little lakes, 
 at the lower end of the favannas. I obferved, 
 growing on the banks of this fequeitered river, the 
 following trees and flirubs : Quercus fempervirents, 
 (^ aquatica, CX Phillos, Q^ dentata, NylTa aquati- 
 ca, N. fylvatica, N. Ogeeche, fi. coccinca, Cupref- 
 fus difl:icha, Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamuus frangula, 
 Prunus laurocerafa, Cyrilla racemiflora, Myrica 
 cerifera, Andromeda ferruginia, Andr. nitida, and 
 the great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, called 
 Pipe-ftem Wood, to which I gave the name of An- 
 dromeda formofiffima, as it far exceeds in beauty 
 every one of this family. 
 
 The river St. Mary has its fource from a val'^ 
 lake, or marfh, called Ouaquaphenogav^', which lie-^ 
 
 betweei; 
 
2<0RTH AMERICA. 25 
 
 between Flint and Oakmulge rivers, and occupies 
 ?. fpace of near three hundred miles in circuit. 
 This vaft accumulation of waters, in the wet feafon, 
 appears as a lake, and contains fome large illands 
 or knolls, of rich high land ; one of which the pre- 
 fent generation of the Creeks reprefent to be a moll 
 blifsful fpot of the earth ; they fay it is inhabited 
 by a peculiar race of Indians, whofe women are in- 
 comparably beautiful ; they alfo tell you that this 
 terreftrial paradife has been feen by fome of their 
 enterprifmg hunters, when in purfuit of game, who 
 being loll in inextricable Iwamps and bogs, and on 
 the point of perilhing, were unexpectedly relieved 
 by a company of beautiful women, whom they call 
 daughters of the fun, who kintlly gave them fuch 
 provifions as they had with them, which were 
 chiefly fruit, or nges, dates. Sec. and fome com 
 cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for fafety to 
 their own country ; for that their hulbands were ■ 
 fierce men, and cruel •. to Grangers : they further 
 fay, that ihefe hunters had a view of their fettle 
 ments, fituated on the elevated banks of an ifland, 
 or piomontory, in a beautiful lake ; but that in 
 their endeavours to approach it, they were in- 
 volved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted 
 land, fi.i!l as they imagined they had jufl: gained it, 
 it feemed to fly before them, alternately appearing 
 and difappearing. They refolved, at length, to 
 leave the delufive purfuit, and to return ; which, 
 after a number of inexpreffible difficulties, they ef- 
 fc<fi:ed. When they reported their adventures to 
 their countrymen, their young warriors were en- 
 flamed with an irrelilfible defire to invade, and 
 make a conquell of, fo charming a country ; but 
 all their attempts hitherto have proved abortive, 
 never having been able again to find that en- 
 chanting 
 
26 TRAVELS IN 
 
 chanting fpot, nor even any road or pathway to it ; 
 yet they fay that they frequently meet with certain 
 iigns of its being inhabited, as the building of ca- 
 noes, footileps of men, &c. They tell another 
 fhory concerning the inhabitants of this fequeftered 
 country, which fcenis probable enough, which is, 
 that they are the pofterity of a fugitive remnant of 
 the ancient Yamafes, who efcaped mafTacre after a 
 bloody and decifive conflict between them and the 
 Creek nation (who, it is certain, conquered, and 
 nearly exterminated, that once powerful people), 
 and here found an afylum, remote and fecure from 
 the fury of their proud conquerors. It is, however, 
 certain that there is a vail lake, or drowned fwamp, 
 well known, and often vifited both by white and In. 
 dian hunters, and on its environs the moft valuable 
 hunting grounds in Florida, well worth contending 
 for, by thofe powers whofe territories border upon 
 it. From this great fource of rivers *, St. Mary 
 arifes, and meanders through a vail plain and pint^ 
 forell, near an hundred and fifty miles to the ocean, 
 with which it communicates, between the points of 
 Amelia and Talbert iflands ; the waters flow deep 
 and gently down from its fource to the fea. 
 
 Having made my obfervations on the vegetable 
 produtiions of this part of the country, and ob- 
 tained fpecimens and feeds of fome curious trees 
 and flirubs (which were the principal objefts of this 
 excurfion) I returned by the fame road to the Ala- 
 tamaha, and arrived fafe again at the feat of my 
 good friend, L. M-Intofii, Efq. where I tarried a 
 few days to rcll and refreih myfelf, and to wait for 
 
 * Source of rivers. It is faid, that St. (lie, St. Miry, and the beautiful 
 river Little St. Juan, which difcharges its waters into the b ;y of Apalachi, 
 a: Sc. Miik's, take their rile from this fwimp. 
 
 my 
 
NORTH AMERICA. IJ 
 
 my young companion and fellow pilgrim, Mr. John 
 M'Intofli, who, being fond of the enterprife, had 
 been fo active during my ab fence, in the neceflfary 
 preparations, that we had nothing to wait for now 
 hut Mrs. M'Intofh's final confent to give up her 
 fon to the perils and hardfhips of fo long a journey; 
 which difficult point being fettled, we fet off with 
 the prayers and benevolent wifhes of my compa- 
 nion's worthy parents. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
23 TRAVELS IN 
 
 C II A P. IV. 
 
 E \ Ri.y in the moining, wc mounted our horfc.^^ 
 and in two days arrived in Savanna ; here we>leamed 
 that the fuperintendant of Indian affairs had left the 
 capital, and was on his way to Augufta. I re-' 
 mained but one day in Savanna, which was em- 
 ployed in making up and forwarding the colle£lions 
 for Charlefton. 
 
 The day following we fet off for Auguffa, which 
 is on Savanna river, at leaft an hundred and fifty 
 miles by land from the capital, and about three 
 hundred by water. We followed the courfe of the 
 river, and arrived there after having had a profpe- 
 rous journey, though a little incommoded by the 
 heats of the feafon. 
 
 As nothing very material occurred on the road, 
 I fhall proceed to give a fummary account of the 
 obfervations I made concerning the foil, fituation, 
 and natural produdions of the country. 
 
 In our progrefs from the fea coaft, we rife gra- 
 dually, by feveral (leps or afcents, in the following 
 manner : Firft, from the fea-coaft, fifty miles b^ick, 
 is a level plain, generally of a loofe fandy foil, 
 producing fpacious high forefts, of pinus taeda, P. 
 lutea, P. fquarrofa, P. echinata, i. Quercus femper- 
 virens, 2 Quercus aquatica, 3. Q^ phillos, 4. Q. 
 tinftoria, 5. Q^ dentata, 6. (^ prinos, 7. Q. alba, 
 8. O. fmuata, 9. Q^ rubra, Liriodendron tuli- 
 
 I. Live Oak. 2. Delia-leaved Water Oak. 3. Willow-leaved Oak. 
 A. Great Black Oak. 5. Narrow-leaved Wintergreen Oak. 6. Swamp 
 White Oak. 7. White Oak. 8. Spanifh Oak. 9. P.ed Oak. 
 
 pifeva. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 2^ 
 
 pifcra, I.iquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus rubra, 
 Cercis tilia, Populus heterophylla, Platanus ccci- 
 deiitalis, Laurus faiiatras, Lauras Borboiiia, Ho- 
 pea tincloria, Fraxinus excelfior, Nyilk, Ulmus, 
 Juglaus exakata, Halefa, Stewartia. Nearly one 
 third of this vait plain is what the inhabitants call 
 fwamps, which are the fources of numerous fmaU 
 rivers and their branches : thefe they call fait ri- 
 vers, bccaufe the tides flow near to their fources, 
 and generally carry a good depth and breadth of 
 water for fmall craft, twenty or thirty miles up- 
 wards from the fea, when they branch and fpread 
 abroad like an open hand, interlocking wiih each 
 other, and forming a chain of fwamps acrofs tht: 
 Carolinas and Georgia, fcvcrai hundred miles pa- 
 rallel with the fea coaft. Thefe fwamps are fed 
 and repleniflied conftantly by an infinite number of 
 rivulets and rills, which fpring out of the firll bank 
 or afcent : their native trees and fhrubs are, befides 
 moft of thofe already enumerated above, as fellow : 
 Acer rubrum, Nyifa aquatica, Cbionanihus, Celtis, 
 Fagus fylvatica, Sambricus ; and the higher knoils 
 afford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda and Aznalea 
 vifcola, Corypha palma, Corvpha pumila, and Wiig- 
 nolia grandiiiora ; befides, the whole furface of the 
 ground between the trees and fhrubs appear to be 
 occupied with canes (Arundo gigantea) entangled 
 with feftoons of the floriferous Glycine frutefcens, 
 Bignonia fempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, va- 
 rious fpecies, Bignonia crucigera, Bign. radican?:, 
 Loniccra fempervirens, and a multitude of other 
 trees, , fhrubs, and plants lefs confpicuou^ ; and, in 
 very wet places, Cuprcffus diilicha. The upper 
 foil oi thefe fwamps is a perfedly black, foapy, 
 rich earth, or flit! mud, two or three feet deep, 
 ©n a foundation or flratum of calcarejus foflil, 
 
 whicli 
 
%0 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which the inhabitants call white marie ; and this is 
 the heart or flrength of thefe fwamps : they never 
 wear out or become poor, but, on the contrary, 
 are more fertile by tillage ; for when they turn up 
 this white marie, the air and winter frofts caufmg it 
 to fall like quicklime, it manures the furface : but 
 it has one difadvantage, that is, in great droughts, 
 when they cannot have water fufficient in their re- 
 fervoirs to lay the furface of the ground under wa- 
 ter, it binds, and becomes fo tough as to burn 
 and kill the crops, efpecially the old cleared lands ; 
 as, while it was frefh and new, the great quantity 
 of rotten wood, roots, leaves, &c. kept the fur- 
 face loofe and open. Severe droughts feldom hap- 
 pen near the fea coaft. 
 
 We now rife a bank of confiderable height, which 
 runs nearly parallel to the coaft, through Carolina 
 and Georgia : the afcent is gradual by feveral 
 flights or fteps, for eight or ten miles, the perpen- 
 dicular height whereof, above the level of the 
 ocean, may be two or three hundred feet (and thefe 
 are called the fand-hills), when we find ourfelves on 
 the entrance of a vaft plain, generally level, which 
 extends weft fixty or feventy miles, rifing gently as 
 the former, but more perceptibly. This plain is 
 moftly a foreft of the great long-leaved pine (P. pa- 
 luftris Linn.) the earth covered with grafs, inter- 
 fperfed with an infinite variety of herbaceous plants,- 
 and embellifhed with extenfive favannas, always 
 green, fparkling with ponds of water, and ornament- 
 ed with clumps of evergreen, and other trees and 
 fhrubs, as Magnolia grandifiora, Magnoha glauca, 
 Gordonia, Illex aquifolium, Quercus, various fpe- 
 ciec, Laurus Borbonia, Chionanthus, Hopea tincto- 
 ria, Cyrilla, Kalmia anguftlfolia, Andromeda, va- 
 rieties, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 3I 
 
 rieiies, Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos, 
 varieties, Fothergilla, and a new fhrub of great 
 beauty and fingularity : it grows erecl, feven or 
 eight feet high ; a miikitude of ereft items arifc 
 from its root ; thefe divide themfelves into afcend- 
 ant blanches, which are garnilhed with abiiAiance 
 of narrow lanceolate obtufe pointed leaves, of a 
 light green, fmooth and fliining. Thele branches, 
 with their many fubdivifions, terminate in fnnple 
 racemes of pale incarnate tlowers, which make a 
 fine appearance among the leaves ; the flowers are 
 fuccecdcd by deficcated triquetrous pcricarpi, each 
 containing a fmgle kernel. 
 
 The lowed fides of thefe favannas arc generally 
 joined by a great cane fwamp, varied with coppices 
 and hommocks of the various trees and (hrubs al- 
 ready mentioned. In thefe fwamps feveral rivulet? 
 take their rife, which drain them and the adjoining 
 favannas, and thence meandering to the rivers- 
 through the forefts, with their banks decorated with 
 Ihrubs and trees. The earth under this level plain 
 may be defcribed after the following manner : the 
 upper furface, or vegetative mould, is a light fandy 
 loam, generally nine inches or a foot deep, on a 
 firatum of cinereous coloured clay, except the 
 fand-hills, where the loofe fandy furface is much 
 deeper upon the clay ; Hone of any fort, or gravel, 
 i^ feldom feen. 
 
 The next afcent, or flight, is of much grea'cr 
 and more abrupt elevation, and continues riung by 
 broken ridges and narrow levels, or vales, for ten 
 or fifteen miles, when we reft again on another 
 extenfive nearly level plain of pine forefts, mixed 
 with various other Ixjrell trees, which continues 
 wefl forty cr fifty milts farther, and exhibits much 
 
 the 
 
3S TRAVJEJLS I a 
 
 the fame appearance with 'the great fored lad men- 
 tioned ; its vegetable produdions nearly the fame, 
 excepting that the broken ridges by which we af- 
 cend to the plain are of a better foil ; the vegeta- 
 tive mould is fixed with particles of clay and fmall 
 gravely and the foil of a dufky brown colour, lying 
 on a rtratum of reddilh brown tough clay. The 
 trees and fhrubs are, Pinus lacda, great black Oak, 
 Quercus tin6loria, Q^ rubra, Laurus, Salfafras, Mag- 
 nolia grandiflora, Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halefia, 
 Juglans, acuminata, Juglans exaltata, Andromeda 
 arborea : and, by the fides of rivulets (which wind 
 about and between thefe hills and fwamps, in the 
 vales) Sty rax latifolia, Ptelea trifoliata, Stewartia, 
 Caiycanthus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripetala, A- 
 zaiea, and others. 
 
 Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a. 
 fhort and natural defcription of the vafl plain lying 
 between the region of Auguila and the fea coaft ; . 
 for from Augufta the mountainous country begins 
 (when compared to the level fandy plain already 
 paffed), although it is at leall an hundred and fifty 
 miles weft, thence to the Cherokee or Apaiachean 
 mountains ; and this fpace may \\ith propriety be 
 called the hilly country, every where fertile and de- 
 lightful, continually repleniihed by innumerable ri- 
 vulets, either courling about the fragrant hills, or 
 fpringing from the rocky precipices, and forming 
 many cafcades ; the coolnefs and purity of which 
 waters invigorate the air of this otherwife hot and 
 fultry climate. 
 
 The village of Augufta is fituated on a rich and 
 fertile plain, on the Savanna river j the buildings 
 are near its banks, and extend nearly two miles up 
 to the caiarafts, or fails, which are formed by the 
 
 finft 
 
^ 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 33 
 
 firft chain of rocky hills, through which this fa- 
 mous river forces itfelf, as if impatient to repofe 
 on the extenfive plain before it invades the ocean. 
 When the river is low, which is during the fummer 
 months, the cataracts are four or five feet in height 
 acrofs the river, and the waters continue rapid and 
 broken, rufhing over rocks five miles higher up : 
 this river is near five hundred yards broad at 
 Augufta. 
 
 A few days after our arrival at Augufta, the 
 chiefs and warriors of the Creeks and Cherokees 
 being arrived, the Congrefs and the bufinefs of the 
 treaty came on, and the negociations continued un- 
 determined many days ; the merchants of Georgia 
 demanding at lead two millions of acres of land 
 from the Indians, as a difcharge of their debts, 
 due, and of long (landing : the Creeks, on the 
 other hand, being a powerful, and proud fpirited 
 people, their young warriors were unwilling to fub- 
 mit to fo large a demand, and their condud evi- 
 dently betrayed a difpofition to difpute the ground 
 by force of arms, and they could not at firft be 
 brought to liften to reafon and amicable terms ; 
 however, at length, the cool and deliberate coun- 
 fels of the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced by 
 liberal prefents of fuitable goods, were too power- 
 ful inducements for them any longer to refift, 
 and finally prevailed. The treaty concluded in 
 unanimity, peace, and good order ; and the ho- 
 nourable fuperintendant, not forgetting his promife 
 to me, at the conclufion, mentioned my bufinefs, 
 and recommended me to the protedion of the 
 Indian chiefs and warriors. The prefents being 
 diftributed amongft the Indians, they departed, re- 
 turning home to their towns. A company of fur- 
 
 D veyors 
 
34 JRAVELS IN 
 
 veyors were appointed, by the governor and coun- 
 cil, to afcertain the boundaries of the new pur- 
 chafe ; they were to be attended by chiefs of the 
 Indians, felefted and delegated by their country- 
 men, to aflift, and be witnelies that the articles of 
 the treaty were fulfilled, as agreed to by both par- 
 ties in Congrefs. 
 
 Col. Barnet, who was chofen to condu£l this 
 bufinefs on the part of the Georgians, a gentleman 
 every way qualified for that important truft, in a 
 very friendly and obliging manner, gave me an in- 
 vitation to accompany him on this tour. 
 
 It was now about the middle of the month of 
 May ; vegetation, in perfedion, appeared with all 
 her attraftive charms, breathing fragrance every 
 where ; the atniofphere was now animated with the 
 efficient principle of vegetative life ; the arbuftive 
 hills, gay lawns, and green meadows, which on 
 every fide invefl the villa of Augafla, had already 
 received my frequent vifits ; and although here 
 much delighted with the new beauties in the vege- 
 table kingdom, and many eminent ones have their 
 fequeflercd refidence near this place, yet, as I was 
 never long fatisfied with prefent polfeflion, however 
 endowed with every poffible charm to attradt the 
 light, or intrinfic value, to engage and fix th^ ef- 
 leem, I was reftlefs to be fearching for more, my 
 curiofity being infatiable. 
 
 Thus it is with regard to our affections and at- 
 tachments, in the more important and interefting 
 concerns of human life. 
 
 Upon the rich rocky hills at the catarafts of Au- 
 jTufta, I firft obferved the perfumed rhododendron 
 
 ferrugineum. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 35 
 
 ferruginelim, white-robed philadelphus Inodorus, 
 and cerulean malva ; but nothing in vegetable na- 
 ture was more pleafing than the odoriferous pancra- 
 tium fluitans, which almoft alone poflefles the little 
 rocky iflets which jufl appear above the water. 
 
 The preparatory bufmefs of the furveyors being 
 riow accompliflied, Mr. J. M'Intofh, yet anxious 
 for travelling, and defirous to accompany me on this 
 tour, joined with me the caravan, confilling of fur- 
 veyors, aftronomers, artifans, chain-carriers, mark- 
 ers, guides, and hunters, befides a very refpcdtable 
 number of gentlemen, who joined us, in order to 
 fpeculate in the lands, together with ten or twelve 
 Indians, altogether to the number of eighry or 
 ninety men, all or moft of us well mounted on 
 horfeback, befides twenty or thirty pack-horfes, 
 loaded with provifions, tents, and camp equipage. 
 
 The fummer feafon now rapidly advancing, the 
 •air at mid-day, about this region, was infufferably 
 hot and fultry. We fet oft' from Augufta, early in 
 the morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on the 
 Great Ridge, which feparates the waters of the Sa- 
 vanna and Alatamaha, about eighty miles diftanc 
 from Augufta. At this Lick the furveyors were to 
 fcparate themfelves, and form three companies, to 
 proceed on different routes. On the evening of 
 the fecond day's journey, we arrived at a fmall vil- 
 lage on Little River, a branch of the Savanna : this 
 village, called Wrightfborough, was founded by 
 Jof. Mattock, efq. of the fed called quakers. This 
 public fpirited man having obtained for himfelf 
 and his followers a diftricl, comprehending up- 
 wards of forty thoufand acres of land, gave the new 
 town this name, in honour of Sir James Wright, 
 then Governor of Georgia, who greatly promoted 
 
 D 2 the 
 
3^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 the eftabliihment of the fettlement. Mr. Mattock^ 
 uho is now about feventy years of age, heahhy and 
 adive, and prefides as Chief Magiftrate of the fet- 
 tlement, received us with great hofpitality. The 
 diflance froni Augufta to this place is about thirty 
 miles ; the face of the country is chiefly a plain of 
 high forefls, favannas, and cane fwamps, until we 
 approach Little River, when the landfcape varies, 
 prefenting to view high hills and rich vales. The 
 foil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep ftratum 
 of reddifli brown tenacious clay, and that on a foun- 
 dation of rocks which often break through both 
 flrata, lifting their backs above the furface. The 
 foreft trees are chiefly of the deciduous order, as, 
 quercus, tindloria, q. laciniata, q. alba, q. rubra, 
 q. prinus, with many other fpeci'es ; celtis, fagus 
 fylvatica, and, on the rocky Iiills, fagus caftanea, 
 fag. pumila, quercus caftanea ; in the rich vales, 
 juglans nigra, jug. cinerea, gledrtfia triacanthos, 
 magnolio acuminata, liriodendron, platanus, fraxi- 
 nus excelfior, cercea, juglans exaltata, carpinus, 
 morus rubra, calycanthus, halefia, scfculus pavia, 
 sefc. arborea^ 
 
 Leaving the pleafant town of Wrightfborough 
 we continued eight or nine miles through a fertile 
 phin and high foreft, to the north branch of Little 
 River, being the largefl of the two, crofling which, 
 we entered an extenfive fertile plain, bordering on 
 the river, and fhaded by trees of vaft growth, which 
 at once fpoke its fertility. Continuing fome time 
 through thefe Ihady groves, the fcene opens, and 
 difclofes to view the moft magnificent forefl I had 
 ever feen. We rofe gradually a floping bank of 
 twenty or thirty fept elevation, and immediately 
 entered this fubUme forefl. The ground is perfedly 
 
 a iev4 
 
NORTH AMERICA: 37 
 
 a level green plain, thinly planted by nature with 
 the moll {lately foreft trees, fuch as the gigantic 
 black * oak (q. tin£loria), liriodendron, juglans 
 nigra, platanus, juglans exaltata, fagus lylvatica, 
 ulmus fylvatica, liquidambar ftyraciflua, whole 
 mighty trunks, feemingly of an equal height, ap- 
 peared like fuperb columns. To keep within the 
 bounds of truth and reality, in defcribing the mag- 
 nitude and grandeur of thefe trees, would, I fear, 
 fail of credibility ; yet, I think I can affert, th?t 
 many of the black oaks meafured eight, nine, ten, 
 and eleven feet diameter five feet above thirty feet 
 as we meafured feveral that were above the ground, 
 girt, and from hence they afcend perfedlly Itraight, 
 with a gradual taper, forty or fifty feet to the limbs ; 
 but, below five or fix feet, thefe trunks would mea- 
 fure a third more in circumference, on account of 
 the projeding jambs, or fupports, which are more 
 or lefs, according to the number of horizontal 
 roots that they arife from : the tulip tree, liquidam- 
 bar, and beech, were equally (lately. 
 
 Not far diflant from the terrace, or eminence, 
 overlooking the low grounds of the river, many very 
 magnificent monuments of the power and induflry 
 of the ancient inhabitants of thefe lands are vifiblc. 
 I obferved a flupendous conical pyramid, or artifi- 
 cial mount of earth, vafl tetragon tei races, and a 
 large funken area, of a cubical form, encompalTed 
 with banks of earth ; and certain traces of a larger 
 Indian town, the work of a powerful nation, whofc 
 period of grandeur perhaps long preceded the dif- 
 covery of this continent. 
 
 ♦ Gigantic black oak. Querc. tinAoria ; the oark cf this fpccies of oak 
 is found to afford a valuable 'yellow dye. This tree is known hv the 
 name of black oak ia Pennfylvania, New-Jerl«v, New-York, and New- 
 England. 
 
 After 
 
jB TRAVELS IN 
 
 After about feven miles progrefs through this 
 foreft of gigantic black oaks, we enter on terri- 
 tories, which exhibit more varied fcenes : the land 
 tifes ahnoft infenfibly by gentle afcents, exhibiting 
 defart plains, high forefls, gravelly and ftony 
 ridges, ever in fight of rapid rivulets ; the foil, as 
 already defcribed. We then pafTed over large rich 
 favannas, or natural meadows, wide fpreading cane 
 fwamps, and frequently old Indian fettlements, 
 now deferted and overgrown with forells. Thefe 
 are always on or near the banks of rivers, or great 
 fwamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevat- 
 ing them above the furrounding groves. I ob- 
 feived, in the ancient cultivated fields, i. diofpy- 
 ros,, 2. gleditfia triacanthos, 3. prunus chicafaw, 
 4. callicarpa, 5. morus rubra, 6. juglans exaltata, 
 7. juglans nigra, which inform us, that thefe trees 
 •were cultivated by the ancients, on account of their 
 fruit, as being wholefome and nourifhing food. 
 Though thefe are nativesof thcforefl*, yet they thrive 
 better, and are more fruitful, in cultivated planta- 
 tions, and the fruit is in great eftimation with the 
 prefent generation of Indians, particularly juglans 
 exaltata, commonly called fiiell-barked hiccory. 
 The Creeks ftore up the laft in their towns. I have 
 feen above an hundred bufhels of thefe nuts belong- 
 ing to one family. 'I'hey pound them to pieces, 
 and then caff them into boiling water, which, after 
 pafling through fine drainers, preferves the mofl 
 oily part of the liquid : this they call by a name 
 which fignifies hiccory milk ; it is as fvveet and rich 
 as frefh cream, and is an ingredient in mod of their 
 cookery, efpecially homony and corn cakes. 
 
 * The Chicafaw plumb I think muft be excepted, for though certainly 
 a native of America, yet I never law it wild in the foreft , but always in 
 •Id deferted Indian plantations : I fuppofe it to have be(*n brought froin 
 the S. W. bevond the Miffiflippi^ by the Chicafaws. 
 
 After 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 39 
 
 After four days moderate and pleafant travel- 
 ling, we arrived in the evening at the Buifalo Lick. 
 This extraordinary place occupies feveral acres of 
 ground, at the foot of the S. E. promontory of the 
 Great Ridge, which, as before obferved, divides 
 the rivers Savanna and Alatamaha. A large cane 
 fwamp and meadows, forming an immenfe plain, 
 lie S. E. from it ; in this fwamp I believe the head 
 branches of the great Ogeeche river take their rife. 
 The place called the Lick contains three or four 
 acres, is nearly level, and lies between the head ot 
 the cane fwamp and the afcent of the Ridge. The 
 earth, from the fupcrticies to an unknouii depth, 
 is an almofl white orcinereous coloured tenacious 
 fattifh clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into great 
 caves, purfuing the delicious vein. It is the com- 
 mon opinion of the inhabitants, that this clay is im- 
 pregnated with faline vapours, arifmg from foflile 
 falts deep in the earth ; but I could difcover nothing 
 faline in its tafte, but I imagined an iniipid fweet- 
 jjefs. Horned cattle, horfes, and deer, are immo- 
 derately fond of it, infomuch, that their excrement, 
 which almoft totally covers the earth to fome dif- 
 tance round this place, appears to be perfe«5v: clay ; 
 which, when dried by the fun and air, ;s almoft as 
 Jiard as brick. 
 
 We were detained at this place one day, in ad- 
 jufting and planning the feveral branches of the 
 furvey. A circumflance occurred during thi^ time, 
 which \va$ a remarkable inftance of Indian faga- 
 city, and had nearly difconcerted iill our plans, and 
 put an elid to the bufmefs. The furveyor having fi?:ed 
 his compafs on the (lafF, and being about to afcer- 
 lain the courfe frcm our place of departure, which 
 "vlas to ftrike Savanna river at the confluence of a 
 certain river, about feventy miles diflance from us ; 
 
 juft 
 
40 TRAVELS IM 
 
 juft as he had determined upon the point, the In- 
 dian chief came up, and obferving the courfe he had 
 fixed upon, fpoke, and faid it was not right ; but 
 that the couife to the place was fo and fo, hold- 
 ing up his hand, and pointing. The furveyor replied, 
 that he himfelf was certainly right, adding, that 
 that little inilrument (pointing to the compafs) told 
 him fo, which, he faid, could not err. The Indian 
 anfwered, he knew better, and that the little 
 wicked inftrument was a liar ; and he would not ac- 
 quiefce in its decifions, fmce it would wrong the 
 Indians out of their land. This miltake (the fur- 
 veyor proving to be in the wrong) difpleafed the 
 Indians ; the difpute arofe to that height, that the 
 chief and his party had determined to break up the 
 bufmefs, and return the ihortefl way home, and 
 forbad the furveyors to proceed any further : how- 
 ever, after fome delay, the complaifance and pru- 
 dent conduct of the colonel made them change their 
 refolution ; the chief became reconciled, upon con- 
 dition that the compafs Ihould be difcarded, and 
 rendered incapable of ferving on this bufmefs ; that 
 the chief himfelf fhould lead the furvey ; and, more- 
 over, receive an order for a very confiderable quan- 
 tity of goods. 
 
 Matters being now amicably fettled, under this 
 new regulation, the colonel having detached two 
 companies on feparate routes, Mr. M'Intofh and 
 myfelf attaching ourfelves to the colonel's party, 
 whofe excurfion was likely to be the moft extenfive 
 and varied, we fet off from the Buffalo Lick, and 
 the Indian chief, heading the party, conduced us 
 on a ftraight line, as appeared by collateral obfer- 
 vation, to the defired place. We purfued nearly a 
 north courfe up the Great Ridge, until we came 
 near the branches of Broad River, when we turned 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 47 
 
 off to the light hand, and encamped on a confide- 
 rable branch of it. At this place we continued al- 
 mod a whole day, conftituting furveyors and aftro- 
 nomers who were to take the courfe, diftance and 
 obfervations on Broad River, and from thence down 
 to its confluence with the Savanna. 
 
 The Great Ridge confifts of a continued high 
 foreft ; the foil fertile, and broken into moderately 
 elevated hills, by the many rivulets which have 
 their fources in it. The heights and , precipices 
 abound in rock and flone. The forell trees and 
 other vegetable produ£lions are the fame as already 
 mentioned about Little River: I obferved hale- 
 fia, ftyrax, asfculus pavia, a^fc. fylvatica, robinia 
 hifpida, magnolia acuminata, mag. tripetala, and 
 fome very curious new fhrubs and plants, particu- 
 larly the phyfic-nut, or Indian olive. The ftem.s 
 arife many from a root, two or three feet high ; 
 the leaves fit oppofite on very {hort petioles ; they 
 are broad, lanceolate, entire, and undulated, hav- 
 ing fmooth furfaces of a deep green colour. Froni 
 the bofom of each leaf is produced a fmgle oval 
 drupe, (landing eredl, on long flender ftems ; it 
 has a large kernel, and thin pulp. The fruit is 
 yellow when ripe, and about the fize of an olive. 
 The Indians when they go in purfuit of deer, carry 
 this fruit with them, fuppofmg that it has the 
 power of charming or drawing that creature to 
 them ; from whence, with the traders, it has ob- 
 tained the name of the phyfic-nut, which means, 
 with them, charming, conjuring, or fafcinatin"-. 
 raalva fcandens, filix fcandens, perhaps a fpecies 
 of trichomancs ; the leaves are palmated, or ra- 
 diated ; it climbs and roves about, on fiirubs, in moid 
 ground. A very fingular and elegant plant, of an 
 
 unknown 
 
4'2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 unknown family, called Indian lettuce, made its firft 
 appearance in thefe rich vales ; it is a biennial ; the 
 primary or radical leaves are fomewhat fpatuled, 
 or broad, lanceolate, and obtufe pointed, of a pale 
 yellowifh green, fmooth furface, and of a delicate 
 frame, or texture ; thefe leaves fpread equally on 
 every fide, almoft reclining on the ground ; from 
 their centre arifes a (Iraight upright ftem, five, fix, 
 or feven feet high, fmooth and poliflied : the ground 
 of a dark purple colour, which is elegantly pow- 
 dered with greenifh yellov/ fpecks ; the ftem, three- 
 fourths of its length, is embellifhed with narrow 
 leaves, nearly of the fame form with the radical ones, 
 placed at regular diftances, in verticilate order. The 
 iuperior one-fourth divifion of this ftem is formed 
 into a pyramidal fpike of flowers, rather diffufe ; 
 thefe flowers are of the hexandria, large, and ex- 
 panded ; of a dark purple colour, delicately pow- 
 dered with green, yellow, and red, and divided 
 into fix parts, or petals ; thefe are fucceeded by tri- 
 quetrous dry pericarpi, when ripe. 
 
 This great ridge is a vaft extended projedion of 
 the Cherokee or Alegany mountains, gradually in- 
 creafing in height and extent, from its extremity 
 at the Lick, to its union with the high ridge of 
 mountains anciently called the Apalachian moun- 
 tains ; it every where approaches much nearer the 
 ■waters of the Alatamaha than thofe of the Savanna. 
 At one particular place, where we encamped, on 
 the Great Ridge, during our repofe there part of 
 a day, our hunters going out^ underftanding that 
 their route was to the low lands on the Ocone, 
 1 accompanied them : we had not rode above 
 three miles before we Ci'rrie to the banks of that 
 beautiful river. The c^ine fwair.ps, of immenfe 
 .extent, 2^'" ''^ " oak.forefts, on the level lands, 
 
 are 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 43 
 
 are incredibly fertile ; which appears from the tall 
 reeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other. 
 
 Before we left the waters of Broad River, having 
 encamped in the evening on one of its confiderable 
 branches, and left mv companions, to retire, as ufual, 
 on botanical refearches, on afcending a fteep rocky 
 hill, I iccidentally difcovered a new fpecies of ca- 
 ryophillata (geum odoratiflimum) ; on reaching to 
 a (hrub my foot flipped, and, in recovering myfelf, 
 I tore up fome of the plants, whofe roots filled the 
 air with animating fcents of cloves and fpicy perfumes. 
 
 On my return towards camp, I met my philo- 
 fophic companion, Mr. M'lntoHi, who was feated 
 on the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found highly 
 entertained by a very novel and curious natural ex- 
 hibition, in which I participated with high relifh. 
 The waters at this place were flill and fhoal, and 
 flowed over a bed of gravel juil beneath a rocky 
 rapid : in this eddy (hoal were a number of little 
 gravelly pyramidal hills, whofe funmiits rofe almofl 
 to the furface of the water, very artfully conftrud- 
 ed by a fpecies of fmall cray-filh (cancer macrou- 
 rus) which inhabited them : here feemed to be their 
 citadel, or place of retreat for their young againfl 
 the attacks and ravages of their enemy, the gold- 
 fifli : thefe, in numerous bands, continually infefted 
 them, except at Ihort intervals, when fmall detach- 
 ments of veteran cray-fifh fallied out upon them, 
 from their cells within the gravelly pyramids, at 
 which time a brilliant fight prefented : the little gold 
 fi(h inilantly fled from every fide, darting through 
 the tranfparent waters like flreams of lightning ; 
 fome even iprang above the furface, into the air, 
 but all quickly returned to the charge, furround- 
 ;ng the pyramids as before^ on the retreat of the 
 
 crayr 
 
44 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cray-fifh ; in this manner the war feemed to be con- 
 tinual. 
 
 The gold-fifli is about the fize of the anchovy, 
 nearly four inches long, of a neat flender form ; the 
 head is covered with a falade of an ultramarine blue, 
 the back of a reddifh brown, the fides and belly of 
 a flame, or of the colour of a fine red lead ; a nar- 
 row duflcy line runs along each fide, from the gills 
 to the tail ; the eyes are large, vi^ith the iris like 
 burnifhed gold. This branch of Broad River is 
 about twelve yards wide, and has two, three, and 
 four feet depth of water, and winds through a fer- 
 tile vale, almofl: overfhadowed on one fide by a 
 ridge of high hills, well timl:)€red with oak, hic- 
 cory, liriodendron, magnolia acuminata, pavia fyl- 
 vatica, and on their rocky fummits, fagus caftanea 
 rhododendron ferrugineum, kalmia latifoHa, cornus 
 Florida, &c. 
 
 One of our Indian young men, this evening, 
 caught a very large falmon trout, weighing about 
 fifteen pounds, which he prefented to the colonel, 
 who ordered it to be ferved up for fupper. The In- 
 dian flruck this fifh, with a reed harpoon, pointed 
 very fliarp, barbed, and hardened by the fire. The 
 fifli lay clofe under the fteep bank, which the Indian 
 difcovered and (truck with his reed ; inftantly the fifli 
 darted off with it, whilft the Indian purfued, with- 
 out extradiiig the harpoon, and with repeated 
 thrufts drowned it, and then dragged it to fliore. 
 
 After leaving Broad River, the land rifes very 
 fenfibly, and the country being mountainous, our 
 progrefs became daily more difficult and flow ; yet 
 the varied fcenes of pyramidal hills, high forefts, 
 rich vales, ferpentine rivers, and catarads, fully 
 
 compenfated 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 45 
 
 compeiifated for our difficulties and delays. I ob- 
 ferved the great aconitum napellus, delphini\im pe- 
 regririum, the carminative angelica lucida*, and «.e- 
 rulean malva. 
 
 We at length happily accompliflied our line, ar- 
 riving at the little river, where our hunters bring- 
 ing in plenty of venifon and turkeys, we had a plen- 
 tiful fealt at fupper. Next morning we marked the 
 corner tree, at the confluence of Little River and the 
 Savanna , and, foon after, the Indians amicably 
 took leave of us, returning home to their towns. 
 
 The rocks and foflils, which conftitute the hills 
 of this middle region, are of various fpecics, as 
 quartfum, ferrum, cos, fdex, glarea, arena, ochra, 
 ftaladltes, faxum, mica, &c. I faw no figns of 
 marble, plafter, or lime-flone ; yet there are, near 
 Augufla, in the forefls, great piles of a porous fri- 
 able white rock, in large and nearly horizontal 
 mafles, which feems to be an heterogeneous con- 
 crete, confilf ing of pulverized fea fhells, with a fmall 
 proportion of fand ; it is foft, and eafily wrought 
 into any form, yet of fufficient confiftence for con- 
 ftru6llng any building. 
 
 As for the animal produ6lions, thev are the fame 
 which originally inhabited this part of North Ame- 
 rica, except fuch as have been aifrighted away luice 
 the invafion of the Europeans. The buffalo (urus; 
 once fo very numerous, is not at this day to be feeii 
 in this pait of the country; there are but few elks, and 
 thofe only in the Apalachian mountains. The dreaded 
 and formidable rattle-fnake is yer too common, and 
 a variety of other ferpents abound, particularly that 
 admirable creature the glafs-ihake : 1 faw a very 
 
 * Called Qondo in. Virgi ..ia ; by thr Creek a.'id Chcrc kcc traders, white 
 root. 
 
 hrg' 
 
46 TRAVELS IN 
 
 large and beautiful one, a little dlllance from our 
 camp. The alligator, a fpecies of crocodile, abounds 
 in the rivers and fwamps, near the fea coalt, but is 
 not to be feen above Augufta. Bears, tygers*, 
 wolves, and wild cats (felis cauda truncata) are 
 numerous enough : and there is a very great variety 
 of papilio and phalena, many of which are admir- 
 ably beautiful, as well as other infed:s of infinite va- 
 riety. 
 
 The furveyors having completed their obfervati- 
 ons, we fet ofF next day on our return to Augufta, 
 taking our route generally through the low lands on 
 the banks of the Savanna. We crofled Broad Ri- 
 ver, at a newly fettled plantation, near its conflu- 
 ence with the Savanna. On my arrival at Augufta, 
 finding myfelf a little fatigued, I ftaid there a day 
 or two, and then fet off again for Savanna, the ca-' 
 pital, where we arrived in good health. 
 
 Having, in this journey, met with extraordinary 
 fuccefs, not only in the enjoyment of an uninter- 
 rupted ftate of good health, and efcaping ill acci- 
 dents, incident to fuch excurfions, through unin- 
 habited wildernefles, and an Indian frontier, but alfo 
 in making a very extenfive colledion of new dif- 
 coveries of natural produftions ; on the recoUedion 
 of fo many and great favours and blefiings, I now,' 
 with a high fenfe of gratitude, prefume -to offer up' 
 my lincere thanks to the Almighty, the Creator and 
 Freferver. 
 
 * This creature is cr.lled, in Peimfylvania and the northern States, pan- 
 ther ; bwt in Carolina ;ind the fouthein States, is called fygerf it is very 
 ftrong, much larger than any dog, of a yellowilK brown, or clay colour, ' 
 having a very long tail : it is a mifthievous animal, and preys on calves, 
 young colts, 6cc. 
 
 CHAPi 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 47 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Having completed my llortus Siccus, and made 
 up my colledlions of feeds and growing roots, the 
 fruits of my late weflern tour, and fent them to 
 Charlefton, to be forwarded to Europe, I fpent the 
 remaining part of this feafon in botanical excurfions 
 to the low countries, betw^een Carolina and Eaft 
 Florida, and collected feeds, roots and fpecimens, 
 making drawings of fuch curious fubjeds as could 
 not be preferved in their native ftate of excellence. 
 
 During this recefs from the high road of my tra- 
 vels, having obtained the ufe of a neat light cyprefs 
 canoe, at Bioughton liland, a plantation, the pro- 
 perty of the Hon. Henry Laurens, Efq. I ftored 
 myfelf with necefl'aries for the voyage, and refolvcd 
 upon a trip up the Alatamaha. , 
 
 I afcended this beautiful river, on whofe fruitful 
 banks the generous and true fons of liberty fecurely 
 dwell, fifty miles above the white fettlements. 
 
 How gently flow thy peaceful flood?, O Alata- 
 maha ! How fublimcly rife to view on thy elevated 
 fliores, yon magnolian groves, from whofe tops 
 the furrounding cxpanfc is perfumed, by clouds of 
 incenfe, blended with the exhailing balm of the li- 
 q' idambar, and odours continually arifmg from cir- 
 cumambient aromatic groves of illicium, myrica, lau- 
 rus, and bignonia. 
 
 When wearied with working mv canoe ac^ainfl: 
 the impetuous current (which be:omc-r ftronger by 
 
 rv.'af(..!i 
 
48 TRAVELS IN 
 
 reafon of the mighty floods of the river, with col- 
 lefted force, prelTing through the firfl hilly afcents, 
 where the fhores on each fide prefent to view rocky 
 cliffs rifmg above the furface of the water, in nearly 
 flat horizontal matfes, waihed fmooth by the de- 
 fcending floods, and which appear to be a compo^ 
 fition, or concrete, of fandy lime-ft:one) I refigned 
 my bark tp the friendly current, referving to my- 
 felf the controul of the helm. My progrefs was 
 rendered delightful by the fylvan elegance of the 
 groves, cheerful meadows, and high difl:ant forefl:s, 
 which in grand order prefented themfelves to view. 
 The winding banks of the river, and the high pro- 
 jeding promontories, unfolded frefh fcenes of gran- 
 deur and fublimity. The deep forefts and difl:ant 
 hills re-echoed the cheering focial lowings of do- 
 melfic herds. The air was filled with the loud 
 and fhrill whooping of the wary fliarp-fighted crane. 
 Behold, on yon decayed, defoliated cyprefs tree, 
 the folitary wood-pelican, dejeftedly perched upon 
 its utmofl elevated fpire ; he there, like an ancient 
 venerable fage, fets himfelf up as a mark of deri- 
 fion, for the fafety of his kindred tribes. The 
 crying-bird, another faithful guardian, fcreaming 
 in the gloomy thickets, warns the feathered tribes 
 of approaching peril ; and the plumage of the iwift 
 failing fquadrons of Spanifh curlews (white as the 
 immaculate robe of innocence) gleams in the ceru- 
 lean flvies. 
 
 Thus fecure and tranquil, and meditating on the 
 marvellous fcenes of primitive nature, as yet un- 
 modified by the hand of man, I gently defcended 
 the peaceful ilream, on whofe polifhed furface were 
 depitSted the mutable fhadows from its penfile banks ; 
 whiKt myriads of finny inhabitants fported in its pel- 
 lucid floods. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ... 4.(^ 
 
 The glorious fovereign of day, clothed in light 
 refulgent, rolling on his gilded chariot, hallened to 
 revifit the weftern realms. Grey penfive eve naw 
 admonilhed us of gloomy night's hafty approach : I 
 was roufed by care to feek a place at fecure repofe, 
 ere darknefs came on. 
 
 Drawing near the high fhores, I afcended the 
 fteep banks, where flood a venerable oak. An ar- 
 cicnt Indian field, verdured over with fucculent 
 giafs, and chequered with coppices of fragrant 
 ihrubs, olfered to my view the Myrica cerifera. 
 Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur. Borbonia, 
 Rhamiius trangula, Prunus Chicafaw, Prun. lau- 
 rocerafus, and others, it was nearly encircled with 
 an open forelt of (lately pines (Pinus palullris) 
 through which appeared the extenfive favanna, the 
 fecure range of the Iwift roebuck. In front of my 
 landing, and due eaft, 1 had a fme profpeft of the 
 river and low lands on each fide, which gradually 
 widened to the fea coafl, and gave me an uncon- 
 fined profpeifl, whilft the far dillant fea-coa(l iilands, 
 like a coronet, limited the hoary horizon. 
 
 My barque being fecurely nioored, and having 
 reconnoitred the furrounding groves, and collected 
 fire-wood, I fprcad my fkins and blanket by my 
 cheerful fire, under the protecling ihade of tlie hoi- 
 pitable Live-oak, and reclined my head on my hard 
 but healthy couch. I lillened, undilturbed, to the 
 divine hymns of the feathered fongftcrs nf the 
 groves, whilfl the foftly whifpering breezes faintly 
 died away. 
 
 The fun now below .the vi'eriern horizon, the 
 /r.oon majeflically rifmg in the eafl ; again the tune- 
 ful birds became infpired : how melodious is the 
 lo/:ial mock-bird ! the groves refounJ the unceafing 
 
 K crits 
 
5& TRAV£LS IN 
 
 cries of the whip-poor-will ; the moon abouf aii 
 hour above the horizon ; lo ! a dark ecHpfe * of her 
 glorious brightnefs came flowly on ; at length, a 
 filver thread alone encircled her temples : at this 
 boding change, an iiniverfal filencc prevailed. 
 
 Nature now weary, I refigned myfelf to reft ; the 
 night pafl'cd over ; the cool dews of the morning 
 awoke me ; my fire burnt low ; the blue fmoke 
 fcarce rofe above the moiftened embers ; all was 
 gloomy : the late ftarry fides, now overcall by thick 
 clouds, warned me to rife and be going. The 
 livid purple clouds thickened on the frowning brows 
 of the morning : the tumultuous winds from the, 
 eaft now exerted their power. O peaceful Alatama- 
 ha ! gentle by nature ! how thou wert ruffled ! thy 
 wavy furface disfigured every obie«5l, prefenting 
 them obfcurely to the fight, and they at length to- 
 tally difappeared, whilfl the furious winds and fweep- 
 ing rains bent the lofty groves, and proflrated the 
 quaking grafs, driving the affrighted creatures to 
 their dens and caverns. 
 
 The tempeft now relaxed, its impetus being fpent, 
 and a calm ferenitv gradually took place ; by noon the 
 clouds broke away, the blue fl;y appeared, the fulgid 
 fun-beams fpread abroad their animating light, and 
 the fleady wellern wind refumed his peaceful re^gn. 
 The waters were purified, the waves fubfided, and the 
 beautiful river regained its native calmnefs. So it is 
 with the varied and mutable fcenes of human events 
 on the ftream of life. The higher powers and af- 
 feftions of the foul are fo blended and connected 
 with the inferior pafTions, that the moft painful feel- 
 ings are excited in the mind when the latter arc 
 crofTed : thus in the moral fyftem, which we have 
 
 * The air at this time being ferene, and not a qloud to he fcen, I f: -v 
 this annual almoft total autumnal eclipfe in its highcft degree of peifeclion. 
 
 planned 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 5^1 
 
 planned for our condu6l, as a ladder whereby to 
 mount to the fummit of terreftrial glory and hap- 
 pinefs, and from whence wc perhaps meditated our 
 flight to heaven itfelf, at the very moment when we 
 vainly imagine ourfelves to have attained its point, 
 fome unforefeen accident intervenes, and furprifes 
 us ; the chain is violently fhaken, we quit our hold 
 and fall : the well contrived fyilem at once becomes 
 a chaos ; every idea of happinefs recedes ; the fplen- 
 dour of glory darkens, and at length totally difap- 
 pears ; every pleafmg obje<5l is defaced, all is de- 
 ranged, and the flattering fcenc paflTes quite away ; 
 a gloomy cloud pervades the underlfanding, and 
 when we fee our progrefs retaraed, and our bcft 
 intentions frufl:rated, we are apt to deviate from the 
 admonitions and convidions of virtue, to fliut our 
 eyes upon our guide and protestor, doubt of his 
 power, and defpair of his afliflance. But let us wait 
 and rely on our God, who in due time will fhine 
 forth in brightnefs, diflipate the envious cloud, and 
 reveal to us how fmite and cirxzumfcribed is human 
 power, when afluming to itfelf independent wifdom. 
 
 But, before I leave the river Alatamaha, wc 
 will proceed to give a further and more particular 
 account of it. It has its fource in the Cherokee 
 mountains, near the head of Tugilo, the great 
 weft branch of Savanna, and, before it leaves 
 them, is joined and augmented by innumerable 
 rivulets ; thence it defcends through the hilly 
 country, with all its collateral branches, and winds 
 rapidity amongil the hills two hundred rind fifty 
 miles, and then enters the flat plain country, by 
 the name of the Oakmulge „ thence meandering an 
 hundred and fifty miles, it is joined on the eafi: fide 
 by the Ocone, which likewife heads in the lower 
 ridges of the mountains. After .this confluence, 
 
 jE ^ ' bavin ?• 
 
52 TkAVELS IN 
 
 having now gained a vaft acquifition of wr.rers, it 
 aflumes the name of Alatamaha, when it becomes 
 a large majeftic river, flowing with gentle wind- 
 ings through a vaft plain forelt, near an hundred 
 miles, and enters the Atlantic by feveral mouths. 
 The north channel, or entrance, glides by the 
 heights of Darien, on the ead bank, about ten miles 
 above the bar, and running from thence with fe- 
 veral turnings, enters the ocean between Sapello 
 and Wolf iflands. The fouth channel, which is 
 efleemed the largeft and deepefl, after its fepara- 
 tion from the north, defcends gently, winding by 
 M'Intofh's and Broughton iflands ; and lafl:ly, by 
 the weft coaft of St. Simon's ifland, enters the 
 ocean, through St. Simon's found, between the 
 fouth end of the ifland of that name and the north 
 end of Jekyl ifland. On the well banks of the 
 fouth channel, ten or twelve miles above its mouth, 
 and nearly oppofite Darien, are to be leen the re- 
 mains of an ancient fort, or fortification ; it is now 
 a regular tetragon terrace, about four feet high, 
 with baftions at each angle ; the area may con- 
 tain about an acre of ground, but the fofle which 
 furrounded it is nearly filled up. I'here are large 
 Live Oak, Pines, and other trees, growing upon 
 it, and in the old fields adjoining. It is fuppofed 
 to have been the work of ihe French or Spaniards, 
 A large fwamp lies betwixt it and the river, and a 
 confiderable creek runs clofe by the works, and en- 
 ters the river through the fwamp, a fniall difliance 
 above Broughton ifland. About feventy or eighty 
 miles above the confluence of the Oakmulge and 
 Ocone, the trading path, from Augufl;a to the Creek 
 nation, crolTes thefe fine rivers, which are there 
 forty miles apart. On the eaft banks of the Oak- 
 mulge, this trading road runs nearly two miles 
 through 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 53 
 
 through ancient Indian fields, which are called the 
 Oakmulge fields : they are the rich low lands of the 
 rivt-r. On the heights of thcfe low grounds are yet 
 vifible monuments, or traces, of an ancient town, 
 fuch p ; artificial mounts or terraces, fquares and 
 bank , encircling confiderable areas. Their old 
 fiel,:: and planting land extend up and down the ri- 
 ver', fifteen or twenty miles from this fite. 
 
 : v'f are to give credit to the account the Creeks 
 givcof themfelves, tliis place is remarkable for being 
 the hrft town or lettlement, when they fat down (as 
 they term it) or ellabliihed themfelves, after their 
 emigratio!! from the wefi, beyond the Miififlippi, 
 their original native country. On this long jour- 
 ney they fuffered great and innumerable difficulties, 
 encountering and vanquifhiuT i-umerous and valiant 
 tribes of Indians, who oppoled and retarded their 
 march. Having crofied the river, flill pufhing eafl- 
 ward, they v/ere obliged to make a fland, ;.nd for- 
 tify themfelves in this place, as tlieir only remain- 
 ing hope, being to the laft degree perfecuted and 
 weakened by their furrounding foes. Having; 
 formed for themfelves this retreat, and driven off 
 the inhabitants by degrees, they recovered their 
 fpirits, and again faced their enemies, when they 
 came off viftorious in a memorable and decifive bat- 
 tle. They afterwards gradually fubdued their fur- 
 rounding enemies, ftrengthening themfelves by tak- 
 ing into confederacy the vanquifhed tribes. 
 
 And they fay, alfo, that about this period the 
 Englifh were eltablifhing the colony of Catolina ; 
 and the Creeks, underftanding that they were a 
 powerful, warlike people, fent deputies to Charlef- 
 toii, their capital, offering them their friendfhip and 
 alliance, which was accepted, and, in confequence 
 
 thereof. 
 
54 TRAVELS IN 
 
 thereof, a treaty took place between them, which 
 has remained inviolable to this day. They never 
 ceafed war againfl the numerous and potent band 
 of Indians, who then furrounded and cramped the 
 Engliih plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches, 
 Wapoos, Santees, Yamalees, Utinas, Icofans, Pa- 
 ticas, and others, until they had extirpated them. 
 The Yamafees and their adherents flickering them- 
 lelves under the power and protection of the Spani- 
 niards of Eall Florida, they purfued them to the 
 very gates of St. Auguftine ; and the Spaniards re- 
 •fufmg to deliver them up, thefe faithful intrepid al- 
 lies had the courage to declare war againft them, 
 and inceifantly perfecuted them, until they entirely 
 •broke up and ruined their fettlements, driving them 
 .before them, till at length they were obliged to re- 
 tire within the walls of St. Augufline and a few in- 
 ferior fortihed pofts on the fea coaft. 
 
 After a fevi^ days I returned to Broughton ifland- 
 The Cherokees and their confederates being yet dif- 
 contented, and on bad terms v/ith the white people, 
 it was unfafe to purfue my travels in the north wef- 
 tern regions of Carolina. And recollediling many 
 fubjecls of natural hiftory, which I had oblerved in 
 the fouth of the iilhmus of Florida, when on a jour- 
 ney fome years ago with my father, John Bartram, 
 that were interefting, and not taken notice of by 
 any traveller ; and as it was then in the autumn and 
 winter, having reafon to think that very many curi- 
 ous fubjetfh had efcaped our refearches ; I now 
 formed the refolution of travelling into F.aft Florida ; 
 accordingly, I immediately wrote to dotlor Fother- 
 gill, in order that he might knov/ where to direft 
 to me. 
 
 PAR 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^$ 
 
 PART II. 
 
 C H A P. I. 
 
 We are, nil of us, fubject to croffes and difap- 
 poiiitmenis, but more cfpecially the traveller ; and 
 when they fuiprife us, we frequently become reft- 
 lefs and impatient under them ; but let us rely on 
 Providence, and by lludying and contemplating the 
 works and power of the Creator, learn wifdom and 
 underftanding in the economy of nature, and be fe- 
 rioully attentive to the divine monitor within. Let 
 us be obedient to the ruling powers in fuch things as 
 regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and 
 all creatures and concerns that are fubmitted to our 
 care and controul. 
 
 In the month of March, 1774, I fet off from Sa- 
 vanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala- 
 tamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in 
 lliort excurfion?, picking up curiofities, until the 
 arrival of a fmall vellel at Frederica, from Savanna, 
 which was deftined to an Indian trading houfe high 
 up St. John's, in Ealt Florida. Upon inforAiation 
 of this veflei's arrival, I immediately took boat and 
 defccnded the Alatamaha, calling by the way of 
 Broughton ifland, where 1 was kindly received by 
 Mr James Bailey, ]\Ir. Laurens's agent. Leaving 
 Broughton ifland in the evening, I continued de- 
 fcending the fouth channel nine or ten miles, when, 
 after crofling the found, I arrived at Frederica, on 
 the ifland of St. Simon, where 1 was well received 
 and entertained by James Spalding, efq. This gen- 
 tleman 
 
5^ 1 RAVELS IN 
 
 tleman carrying on a very confiderable trade, and 
 having extenfive conneclions with the Indian tribes 
 of Eafl Florida, gave me letters to his agents refid- 
 ing at his trading houfes, ordering them to furnifli 
 me with horfes, guides, and every other convenient 
 afli fiance. 
 
 Before the veflcl was ready to fail again for St. 
 John's, I had time to explore the ifland. In the 
 cool of the morning early, 1 rode out of the town, 
 direding my courfe to the fouth end of the ifland. 
 After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which al- 
 mofl furrounded the town on the land-fide, fudden- 
 ly a very extenfive and beautiful green favanna 
 opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in 
 breadth near a mile, well ftocked with horned cat- 
 tle, horfes, flieep, and deer. Following an old 
 highway, now out of repair, acrofs the Savanna, 
 I afcended the doping green bank, and entered a 
 tioble forefl of lofty pines, and then a venerable 
 grove of Live Gaks, under whofe fhady fpreading 
 boughs opened a fpacious avenue, leading to the 
 former feat of general Oglethorpe, but now the 
 property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leav- 
 ing this town I was led into a high pine foreft ; 
 the trees were tall, and generally of the fpecies 
 called Broom-pine (P. paluftris Linn.) the furface 
 oi the ground covered with grafs, herbage, and 
 fome Ihrubbery : 1 continued through this foreft 
 nearly in a diredl line towards the fea-coaft, iive or 
 fix miles, when the land became uneven, with 
 ridges of fand-hills, mixed with fea-ftielh, and co- 
 vered by almoft impenetrable thickets, confifting 
 of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia), Myrica^ 
 Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, CalTmc, Sider- 
 Dxylon, Ptelea, Halefia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, en- 
 tangled with Smilax pfeudo-ci^ina, and ' other - 
 
 fpecies. 
 
L 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 5/ 
 
 fpecies, Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Rham- 
 nus volubilis, ^^c. This dark labyrinth is fuccecded 
 by a great extent of fait plains, beyond whi:h the 
 boundlefs ocean is feen. Betwixt the dark forefl 
 and the fait plains, I crofied a rivulet of freui wa- 
 , ter, where I fat down a while to rell inyfelf, under 
 the fliadow of fweet Bays and Oaks ; the lively 
 breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of 
 the fuperb Crinum, called by the inhabitants, White 
 Lily. This admirable beauty of the fea-coafl- 
 iflands dwells in the humid Ihady groves, where the 
 foil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of 
 fea fhclls. The delicate flrudure of its fpaJix, its 
 green broad leaves, and the texture and whitenefs 
 of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphor- 
 bia pida. Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea erecta, 
 were alfo feated in front of my relling place, as 
 well ivs rhe Lycium falfum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.) 
 a very beautiful ever-green ihrub, its cerulean 
 flowers, and coral red berries, always on its 
 branches, forming not the leafl: of its beauties. 
 
 Time now admonifliing me to rife and be going, 
 I, with reluctance, broke away from this alTcrablv 
 of maritime beauties. 
 
 Continuing on, fouthward, the fait plains on my 
 left hand infenfibly became narrower, and I at 
 length reached the flrand, which was level, firm, 
 and paved with lliells, and aflbrded nie a grand 
 view of the boundlefs ocean. 
 
 thou Creator fupreme, almighty ! how infinite 
 and incomprehenfible thy works ! mod perfed, and 
 every way aftonilhing ! 
 
 1 continued nearly a mile along this firm (lindy 
 
 ing niv 
 
 horlb'i 
 
 beach, the waves of the fea fometimes wafhina niv 
 
5S TRAVELS IN 
 
 horfe's feet. I obferved a great variety of fliell- 
 fifh, as' Echinitis, Corallinus, Patella, Medufa, 
 Buccina, Concha venerea, Aurls marina, Cancer, 
 Squilla, &c. fome alive, and others dead, having 
 been cad upon the beach by the feas, in times of 
 temped, where they became a prey to fea fowl, 
 and Other maritime animals, or periihed by the heat 
 of the fun and burning fands. At length I doubled 
 the utmofl fouth point of St. Simon's, which forms 
 the north cape of the fouth channel of the great 
 river Alatamaha. The found, jufl within this cape, 
 forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the fouth end 
 of the ifland, on the oppofite fide of which I be- 
 held a houfe and farm, v/here I foon arrived. This 
 delightful habitation was fituated in the midll of a 
 fpacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near the 
 Itrand of the bay, commanding a view of the inlet. 
 A cool area furrounded the low but convenient 
 buildings, from whence, through the groves, was 
 a fpacious avenue into the ifland, terminated by a 
 large favanna ; each fide of the avenue was lined 
 with bee-hives, to the number of fifty or fixty ; 
 they feemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a 
 lively image of a colony that has attained to a Hate 
 of power and affluence, by the pradice of virtue 
 and induftry. 
 
 When I approached the houfe, the good man, 
 who was reclining on a bear-ikin, fpread under the 
 fhade of a Live Oak, fmoking his pipe, rofe and 
 faluted me : " Welcome, ftranger, I am indulg- 
 ing the rational dictates of nature, taking a little 
 rell:, having ju(l come in from the chace and fifn- 
 ing." After fome converfation and reft, his fer- 
 vant brought a bowl of honey and water, a very 
 refrefning and agreeable liquor, of which I drank. 
 On rifing to take my departure, he objeded, and 
 
 rcquefted 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 59 
 
 requefted me to flay aiid dine with hira ; and on 
 my pleading, for excufe, the neccfTity of mv being 
 at Frederica, " Yet, I pray you, Itay a little, 1 will 
 foon have fome retrelhment for you." Prefently 
 was laid before us a plentiful repaft of venifon, ;?cc. ; 
 our drink being honey and water, llrengthened by 
 the addition of brandy. Our rural table was fpread 
 under the fhadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays, 
 fanned by the Uvely falubrious breezes wafted from 
 the fpicy groves. Our mufic was the rcfponflve 
 love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert 
 and gay mock-bird ; whilil the brilliant humming- 
 bird darted through the flowery groves, fufpended 
 in air, and drank neiflar I'rom the flowers of the 
 yellow Jafmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and fwcet 
 Azalea. 
 
 But yet, how awfully great and fublime is tlie 
 majeftic fcene eaftward ! the folemn found of the 
 beating furf ilrikes our ears ; the daflnng of yon 
 liquid mountains, Hke mighty giants, in vain aiTail 
 the fkies ; they are beaten back, and fall prollrate 
 upon the fnores of the trembling illand. 
 
 Taking leave of my fylvan friend, I fat off on 
 my return to the town, where I arrived before 
 night, having obferved, on the way, many curious 
 vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma 
 (or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha 
 repens^ frondibus expanfis, liabelliFormibus, plica- 
 tis, ftipit. fpinofis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Corypha 
 obliqua, caudice arboreo adfcendente, frondibus 
 expanfis, flabelhformibus, plicatis, flipit. ferratis, 
 Cyrilla, Tillandfia monollachya, 'rill. linguiata, or 
 Wild Pine ; both thefe curious vegetables are pa- 
 rafites, living on the fubftance of others, particu- 
 larly on the limbs of the Live Oak ; the latLcr fpc- 
 
 cics 
 
6o TRAVELS IN 
 
 cies is a very large fiourifhing plant, grezitly ref- 
 fembling, at fome diftance, a well grown plant of 
 the Bromelia Ananas : the large deep green leaves 
 are placed in an imbricated order, and afcendant ; 
 but their extremities are reflex, their bafes gibbous 
 and hollowed, like a ladle, and capable of con* 
 taining near a pint of water : heavy tempefts of 
 wind and rain tear thefe plants from the trees ; yet 
 they live and flourifn on the earth, under the fha- 
 dow of thefe great Live Oaks. A very large pare 
 of this illand had formerly been cleared and planted 
 by the Englifl-i, as appeared evidently to me, by 
 veftiges of plantations, ruins of coflly buildings, 
 highways, Sec. but it is novv' overgrown wiih foreits. 
 Frederica was the firft town built by the Englifli in 
 Georgia, and was founded by general Oglethorpe, 
 who began and eftablifhed the colony. The for- 
 trefs v/as regular and beautiful, conftrufted chiefly 
 with brick, and was the largeft, mod regular, and 
 perhaps mofl: coftly, of any in North America, of 
 Britifli conftru6lion : it is now in ruins, yet occu- 
 pied by a final 1 garrifon ; the ruins alfo of the 
 town only remain ; peach trees, figs, pomegra- 
 nates, and other fiirubs, groxv out of the ruinous 
 walls of former fpacious and expenfive buildings, 
 not only in the town, but at a diftance in various 
 parts of the ifland ; yet there are a few neat houfes 
 in good repair, and inhabited : it feems now reco- 
 vering again, owing to the public and liberal fpirit 
 and exertions of J. Spalding, efq. who is prefident 
 of the ifland, and engaged in very extenfive mer- 
 cantile concerns. 
 
 CHAP- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 6l 
 
 CHAP. II. , 
 
 The vcffel In which I was to embark for Eaft: 
 Florida, being now ready to pinTue her voyage, we 
 iet fail with a fair wind and tide. Our courfe was 
 fouth, through the found, betwixt a chain of fea- 
 coaft-iflands, and the main. In the evening we 
 came to, at the fouth end of St. Simon's, having 
 been hindered by the flood tide makinf]; ai^ainfl; us. 
 The captain and myfelf, with one of our ciew, went 
 on fhore, with a view of getting fome venifon and 
 fca fowl. We had not the good fortune to fee any 
 deer, ycc we were not altogether unfuccefsful, hav- 
 ing taken three young racoons (Urfus cauda elon- 
 gata) which are excellent meat : we had them for 
 fupper, fcrvcd up in a pillo. Next morning early, 
 we again got under way, running by Jekyl and 
 Cumberland Iflands, large, beautiful, and fertile, yet 
 thinly inhabited, and confequently excellent haunts 
 for deer, bears, and other game. 
 
 As we ran by Cumberland Ifle, keeping the chan- 
 nel through the found, we faw a fail a head coming 
 up tovv'ards us. Our captain knew it to be the 
 trading fchooner from the fl:ores on St. John's, and 
 immeciiatciy predicted bad news, as Ciit was not to 
 iail until our arrival there. As fhe approached us, 
 his apprehenfions were more and more confirmed, 
 Irom the appearance of a number of paffengers on 
 deck. AVe laid to, until ihe came up, when wc 
 hailed her, " What news ?" " Bad ; the Indians 
 have plundered the upper (lore, and the traders have 
 cfcaped, only with their lives." Upon this both 
 • effels came to anchor very near each other, when 
 
 learning 
 
62 TRAVELS IN 
 
 learning the particulars, it appeared, that a large 
 party of Indians had furprifed and plundered two 
 trading houfes, in the ilthmus, beyond the river St. 
 John's; and a third being timely apprifed of their hof- 
 tile intentions, by a faithful runner, had time to carry 
 Gif part of the effecls, which they fecreted in a fwamp 
 at fome diftance from it, covering them with (kins. 
 The upper ftore liad faved their goods in like man- 
 ner ; and the lower flore to which we were bound, 
 had removed the chief of theirs, and depofited them 
 on a fmall ifland, in the river, about five miles be- 
 low the ftore. With thefe effects was my cheft, which 
 I had forwarded in this velfel, from Savanna, not 
 being at that time determined whether to make 
 this journey by land, or water. The captain of our 
 veffel, refolved to put about and return to Frede- 
 rica, for frefh inftruclions how to proceed ; but for 
 my part, I was determined to proceed for the ifland 
 up St. John's, where my chefl was lodged, there be- 
 ing fome valuable books and papers in it, which I 
 could not do well without.. I accordingly defired 
 our captain to put me on fhofe, on Little St, Si- 
 mon's, which was no'c far diftant, intending to walk 
 a few miles to a fort, at the fouth end of that ifland, 
 wh^rfe fome fifliermen reiided, who, as I expefled, 
 would fet me over on Amelia Ifland, where 
 vvas a large plantation, the property of Lord Eg- 
 mont, a Britifii nobleman, whofe agent, while I 
 was at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call on 
 him, as I paiTed toward Ealt Florida ; and here I 
 had expectations of getting a boat to carry me to 
 St. John's. Agreeably to my defire, the captain 
 put me on fliore, with a young man, a paifenger, 
 for Eafl Florida, who promifed to continue with me, 
 and fhare my adventures. We landed fafely ; the cap- 
 tain wifliing us a profpcrous journey, returned on 
 
 board 
 
North America, 6^ 
 
 board his veflel, and we proceeded for the fort, en- 
 countering fome harfn treatment fi om thorny thick- 
 ^;ts, and prickly vines. However we reached the 
 fort in the evening. The commander was out in the 
 ioieito' hunting. My companion being tired, or in- 
 dolent, betook himfelf to reft, while I made a tour 
 round the fouth point of the ifland, walking the 
 ihelly payed fea beach, and picking up novelties. . I 
 had not gone above a mile before I came up to a 
 roebuck, lying flain on the fands ; and hearing the 
 report of a gun, not far off, and fuppofmg it to be 
 from the captain of the fort, whom I expedted foon 
 to return to take up his game, I retired to a little 
 diilance, mounted the fand hills, and fat down, en- 
 ioying a fine profpedt of the rolling billows and 
 foaming breaker?, beating on the oar, and north 
 rtromontcry of Amelia lile, oppofite to v^e. The 
 captain of the fort foon came up, with a flain buck 
 on his fhoulders. We hailed each other, and re- 
 turned together to the fort, where we were well 
 treated, and next morning, at my requefl, the 
 captain obligingly fet us over, landing us fafcly on 
 Amelia. After walking through a Ipacious forefl 
 of Live Oaks and Palms, and crofTmg a creek that 
 ran through a narrow fait niarfli, 1 and my fellow 
 traveller arrived fafc at the plantation, where the 
 agent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hof- 
 pitably. This gentleman is a very intellig.cnt and 
 able planter, having already greatly improved the 
 ellate, particularly in the cultivation of indigo. 
 Great part of this ifiand confiRs of excellent hom.- 
 mocky land, which is the foil this plant delights in, 
 as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and aim oil: every 
 other efculent vegeta'ble. Mr. Egan politely rode 
 '.vith me over great part of the ifland. On 
 
 F.crinont 
 
64 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Egmont eftate are feveral very large Indian tumuH^ 
 which are called Ogeeche mounts, fo named fron| 
 that nation of Indians, who took Ihelter here, after 
 being driven from their native fettlements on the 
 main near Ogeeche river. Here they were con- 
 ftantly harrafled by the Carolinians and Creeks, and 
 at length flain by their conquerors, and their bones 
 entombed in thefe heaps of earth and (hells. I ob- 
 ferved here the ravages of the common grey cater- 
 pillar (Phalena periodica), fo defl:ru£live to forelt 
 and fruit trees, in Pennfylvania, and through the 
 northern (tates, by dripping them of their leaves, in 
 the fpring, while young and tender. 
 
 Mr. Egan having bufmefs of importance to tranf- 
 acl in St. Auguftine, prefied me to continue uith 
 him a few days, when he would accompany me to 
 that place, and, if I chofe, I fhould have a palfage, 
 as far as the Cow-ford, on St. John's, where he would 
 procure me a boat to profecute my voyage. 
 
 It may be a fubjeft worthy of fome inquiry, why 
 thofe fine iilands, on the coaft of Georgia, are fo 
 thinly inhabited ; though perhaps Amelia may in 
 fome degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fer- 
 tile illand, on the north border of Eafl: Florida, and 
 at the Capes of St. Mary, the finefl harbour in this 
 new colony. If 1 fhould give my opinion, the fol- 
 lowing fecm to be the mod probable reafons : the 
 greateil part of thefe are as yet the property of a 
 few wealthy planters, who having their refidence 
 on the continent, where lands on the large rivers, 
 as Savanna, Ogeeche, Alatamaha, St. llle, and others, 
 are of a nature and quality adapted to the growth 
 of rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon for 
 obtaining ready ca(h, and purchafing fiimily arti- 
 cles ; they fettle a few poor families on their in- 
 
 fuhr 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 6^ 
 
 fular eftates, who rear flocks of horned cattle, 
 horfeSj fwine, and poultry, and protect the game for 
 their proprietors. The inhabitants of thefe iflands 
 alfo lie open to the invafion and ravages of pirates, 
 and in cafe of a war, to inciirfions from their ene- 
 mies' armed veiTels ; in which cafe they mud either 
 remove with their families and effeOs to the main, 
 or be flripped of all their moveables, and their 
 houfes laid in ruins. 
 
 The foil of thefe iflands appears to be particularly 
 favourable to the culture of indigo and cotton, and 
 there are on them fome few large plantations for 
 the cultivation and manufadure of thole valuable ar- 
 ticles. The cotton is planted only by the poorer 
 clafs of people, jufl; enough for their family con- 
 fumption : they plant two fpecies of it, the annual 
 and Weft Indian ; the former is low, and planted 
 every year ; the balls of this are very large, and the 
 phlox long, ftrong, and perfedly white ; the Weft 
 Indian is a tall perennial plant, the ftalk fomewhat 
 ihrubby, feveral of which rife up from the root for 
 feveral years fucccflively, the Hems of the former 
 year being killed by the winter frolls. The balls of 
 this latter fpecies are not quite fo large as thofe of 
 the herbaceous cotton ; but the phlox, or wool, 
 is long, extremely fine, filky, and white. A plan- 
 tation of this kind will laft feveral years, with mo- 
 derate labour and care, whereas the annual fort is 
 planted every year. 
 
 The coafts, founds, and inlets, environing thefe 
 iflands, abound with a variety of excellent fifh, par- 
 ticularly Rock, Bafs, Drum, Mullet, Sheeps-head, 
 Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea Trout, (this 
 iaft feems to be a fpecies of Cod) Skate, Skipjack, 
 Stingray. The Shark, and great Black Stingray, 
 
 F are 
 
66 TRAVELS IN 
 
 are infatiable cannibals, and very troublefome to the 
 fifhermen. The bays and lagoons are ftored with 
 oyflers, and varieties of other fliell-fifli, crabs, 
 Ihrimp, &c. The clams, in particular, are large, 
 their meat white, tender, and delicate. 
 
 There is a large fpace betwixt this chain of fea- 
 Goail-illands and the main land, perhaps generally 
 near three leagues in breadth ; but all this fpace is 
 not covered with water : I eflimate nearly two-thirds 
 of it to confift of low fait plains, Vv-hich produce 
 Barilla, Sedge, Rufhes, &c. and Vv'hich border on 
 the main land, and the weftern coafls of the iflands. 
 The eafl fides of thefe iflands are, for the mofl part, 
 clean, hard, fandy beaches, expofed to the wafh of 
 the ocean. Between thefe iflands are the mouths or 
 entrances of fome rivers, which run dcv>n from the 
 continent, winding about through thefe low fait 
 marflies, and deHvering their v. aters into the founds, 
 which are very extenfive capacious harbours, from 
 three to five and fix to eight miles over, and com- 
 nmnicate with each other by parallel fair rivers, or 
 paffes, that flow into the found ; they afiord an ex- 
 tenfive and fecure inland navigation for mod craft, 
 fiich as large fchooners, floops, pettiaugers, boats, 
 and canoes ; and this inland communication of wa- 
 ters extend along the fea coafl: with but few and 
 fhort interruptions, from the bay of Chefapeak, in 
 Virginia to the MilTiffippi, and how much farther I 
 know not, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whether 
 this chain of fea-coaft-iflands is a ftcp, or advance, 
 which this part of our continent is now making on 
 the Atlantic ocean, we muft leave to future ages to 
 determine. But it feems evident, even to demon- 
 ftration, that thofe fait marfiies adjoining the coafl 
 of the main, and the reedy and grafiy iflands and 
 
 marfhes 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^"J 
 
 marfhes in the rivers, which are now overflowed at 
 every tide, were formerly high fwamps of firm land, 
 affording forefts of Cyprefs, Tupilo, Magnolia gran- 
 diilora. Oak, A(h, Sweet Bay, and other timber 
 trees, the fame as are now growing on the river 
 fwamps, whofe furface is two feet or more above the 
 fpring tides that flow at this day ; and it is plainly 
 to be feen by every planter along the coaft or Caro- 
 lina, Georgia, and Florida, to the MifSffippi, when 
 they bank in thefe gralfy tide marfhes for cultivation, 
 that they cannot fmk their drains above three or 
 four feet below the furface, before they come to 
 ftrata of Cyprefs (lumps and other trees, as ciofe to- 
 gether as they now grow in the fwamps. 
 
 F 2 CHAP. 
 
68 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. in. 
 
 Being now ux readinefs to profecute our voyage 
 to St. John's, wc let fall in a handfome pleafure- 
 boat, nianricd with four flout negio Haves, to row 
 '.n cafe of necellity. After paffing Amelia Nar- 
 rows, we had a pleafant run acrofs fort George's 
 found, where, obferving the pelicans fifhing, Mr. 
 Egan fhot one of them, which he took into the 
 boat. I was greatly furprifed on obferving the 
 pouch or fack, which hangs under the bill : it is 
 capable of being expanded to a prodigious fize. 
 One of the people on board, faid, that he had feen 
 more than half a bufhel of bran crammed into one 
 of their pouches. The body is larger than that of 
 a tame goofe, the legs extremely fliort, the feet 
 webbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwards 
 like a fcythe, the wings extend near feven feet from 
 tip to tip, the tail is very fhort, the head, neck, and 
 breaft, nearly white, the body of a light bluifli gray, 
 except the quill feathers of the wings, W'hich are 
 black. They feem to be of the gull kind, both in 
 form and llrufture, as well as manner of fiftiing. 
 The evening following, we landed on the main. 
 It was a promontory of high land, covered with 
 orange-trees, and projedinp; into the found, forming 
 a convenient port. We pitched our Lent under the 
 flicker of a forell of Live Oaks, Palms, and Sweet 
 Bays ; and having in the courfe of the day, procured 
 plenty of lea fowl, fuch as curlews, willets, fnipes, 
 fand birds, and others ; we had them dreffed for 
 fupper, and feafoned with excellent oyfters, which 
 lav in heaps in the water, clofe to our landing-place. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 69 
 
 The fiirub Capficum growing here in abundance, 
 afforded us a very good pepper : we drank of a well 
 of frefh water jult at hand, amidll a grove of Myr- 
 tles (Myrica ccrifera.) Our repofe however was in- 
 complete, from the lllngs of mufquetoes, the roar- 
 ing of crocodiles, and the continual noife and reft- 
 leffnefs of the lea fowl, thoufands of them having 
 their rooihng-places very near us, particularly loonr, 
 of various fpecieSj herons, pelicans, Spanifh curlews 
 &c. all promifcuoufly lodging together, and in fuch 
 incredible numbers, that the trees were entirely co. 
 vered. They rooft in inacceilible ifleis in the fait 
 marfhes, furrounded by lagoons, and fliallow water. 
 Juft without the trees, betwixt them, the water and 
 marfhes, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yucca, 
 gloriofa) or Adam's needle, which grows fo thick 
 together, that a rat or bird can fcarccly pafs through 
 them ; and the fliff leaves of this fword plant, ftand- 
 ing nearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man, 
 or any other animal, as if they were a regiment of 
 grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. Tlie 
 Palmetto royal is, however, a very fmgular and beau- 
 tiful produftion. It may be termed a tree, from 
 its durability and magnitude, as likcwife from the 
 ligneous quality of its ftem, or trunk, when old ; 
 yet from its form and texture, I fliould be inclined 
 to rank it amongft the herbaceous plants, for even 
 the glorious palm, although it rifes to the altitude 
 of a tree, and even tranfcends moft of them, yet 
 it bears the character of the herbaceous ones : and 
 this, Hke the Palm tree, rifes with a Itraight, eredb 
 ftem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with 
 a beautiful chaplet of fword or dagger like leaves, 
 of a perfed green colour, each terminated with a 
 ftiff, ftiarp fpur, and their edges finely crenated. 
 This thorny crown is crefted with a pyramid of fil- 
 
 ver 
 
7® Travels in 
 
 v.er white flowers, each rerembling a tulip or lily. 
 Thefe flowers a!f mcceeded by a large fruit, nearly 
 of the form and fize of a flender cucumber, which 
 when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the fkin 
 fmocih and fhining, its pulp foft, very juicy, and 
 of an agreeable aromatic flavour, but rather bitter 
 to tjie tafte ; it is, however, frequently eaten, but 
 if eaten to excefs, proves violently purgative. The 
 feeds are numerous, flat, and lunated. 
 
 The plant, or tree, when grown old, fometimes 
 divides into two or three ftems, which feem of 
 equal height and thicknefs, and indeed nearly of the 
 fame thicknefs with the main (lem j but generally, 
 when they arrive to this age and magnitude, their 
 owft weight brings them to the ground, where they 
 foon decay, the heart or pith firfl:, leaving a hol- 
 low fibrous reticulated trunk or fleeve, which like- 
 wife foon after decays, and in fine, all is again re- 
 duced to its original earth, and replaces the vegeta- 
 tive mould. But the deceafed are foon replaced by 
 others, as there are younger ones of all ages and 
 flature, ready to fucceed their predeceflbrs, and 
 llourifh for a time, with the fame regal pomp and 
 fplendor. Thefe plants are fo multitudinous, where- 
 ever they get a footing, that the earth is completely 
 occupied by them, and fcarcely any other vegetable 
 is to be feen, where they are ; yet they are fome- 
 times fcattered amongll other trees and vegetables. 
 
 In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived at 
 the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. John's, about 
 thirty miles above the bar or capes, the river here 
 being above a mile wide. 
 
 ' Mr. Egan, after procuring a neat little fail-boat 
 for me, at a large indigo plantation near the ferry, 
 
 and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. J i 
 
 and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St. 
 Auguftine, which is on the fea-coafl:, about forty- 
 five miles over land. 
 
 It was now about the middle of April. Vegeta- 
 tion appearing every where in high progrefs, I was 
 anxious to be advancing foutherly ; and having at 
 this plantation (lored myfelf with ncceffaries for 
 my voyage, I failed in the morning, with a fair 
 wind. I was now again alone, for the young man, 
 my fellow traveller, though flouter and heartier 
 than myfelf, having repented of his promife to ac- 
 company me to the Indian trading houfeg, I fup- 
 pofe not relifliing the hardfliips and dangers, which 
 might perhaps befal us, chofe rather to (tay behind, 
 amongft the fettlements. His leaving me, however, 
 I did not greatly regret, as I could not confidcr it 
 a difappointment much to my difadvanta=i;e at the 
 moment. Our views were probably totally oppo- 
 fite ; he, a young mechanic on his adventures, Teemed 
 to be actuated by no other motives, than cither to 
 eftabllfh himfelf in fome well inhabited pari: of the 
 country, where, by following hi:; occupn.ion, h?. 
 might be enabled to procure, without much toil and 
 danger, the neceflaries and conveniencies of life ; 
 or by induilry and frugality, perhaps eflablifh his 
 fortune. Whift I, continually impelled by a refl- 
 lefs fpirit of curiofity, in purfuit of new produc- 
 tions of nature, my chief happinefs confiltcd in trac- 
 ing and admiring the infinite power, majeHy, and 
 perfedion of the great Almighty Creator, and in 
 the contemplation, that through divine aid and per- 
 miflion, I might be inrtrumental in difcovering, and 
 introducing into my native country, fome oiiginal 
 productions of nature, which might become ufeful 
 
 to 
 
Ji, TRAVELS- IN 
 
 to fociety. Each of our purfuits was perhaps equally 
 laudable ; and upon this fuppofuion, I was quite 
 "willing to part with him upon amicable terms. 
 
 My little veffel being furniflied with a good fail, 
 and having filhing tackle, a neat light fufee, pow- 
 der and ball, I found myfelf well equipped for my 
 voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading- 
 h^oufe. ' 
 
 I croiTed the »river to a high promontory of 
 wood-land, on the weft fliore, and being Itruck with 
 the magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak, 
 Palms, and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I ftepped 
 on fliore to take a view of the place. Orange trees 
 were in full bloom, and filled the air with fra- 
 grance. 
 
 It was now paft noon, and this place being about 
 eight miles above the Cow-ford, and the river near 
 three miles in breadth, I wanted to reach a planta- 
 tion in fight, on the oppofite fhore, in order to get 
 fome repairs, m.y veflel having fuftained fome da- 
 mage from the violence of the wind, in crofling over. 
 I arrived late in the evening, and finding a conveni- 
 ent landing-place and - harbour, 1 concluded to re- 
 main here till morning, and then coaft it clofe along 
 fliore to the plantation. 
 
 It beginning to thunder, I was fufficiently warn- 
 ed to prepare againft a wet night ; and obferving 
 a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown 
 down by a hurricane, and oft'ered me a convenient 
 fhelter, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunk 
 a fufficlent height from the earth to admit me to 
 fit or lie down under it, I fpread my fail, ilanting 
 from the trunk of the tree to the ground, on the 
 
 windvi^ard 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 73 
 
 windward {ida ; and having collefted a quantity of 
 wood, fufficient to keep up a fire during the night, 
 I ftruck one up in front, and fpreading fkins on 
 the ground, and upon thei'e placing a blanket, one 
 half I lay down upon, turning the other over me 
 for a covering;. 
 
 The florm came up, with a furious wind and 
 rvcmendous thunder and lightning, from the oppo- 
 : . N. W. coafi:, but luckily for mc, little rain 
 ^nd T relied very well. But as the wind next 
 i ..' ■ i>lew very frefli, right in upon the ihore, 
 
 there was no pollibility of moving, with fafety, 
 ffo'.n my prefent fituation. I however arofe to 
 rt-connoitre the ground round about my habita- 
 tion, being rouled by the report of a muiket not 
 far off. I had not left fight of my encampment, 
 following a winding path through a grove of Live 
 Oak, Laurel (Magn. grandiflora) and Sapindus, 
 before an Indian (tepped out of a thicket, and 
 eroded the path juft: before me, having a large 
 turkey cock flung acrofs his flioulders : he faw 
 me, and flepping up and fmiling, fpoke to me in 
 Knglilh, bidding me good morning. I faiuted him 
 with "■' It's well, brother,'* led him to my camp, 
 and treated him with a dram. This friendly In- 
 dian informed me that he lived at the next planta- 
 tion, employed as a hunter. I afked him how far 
 it was to the houfe ; he anfwered about half a mile 
 by laud, and invited me to go there, teUing me 
 that his mailer was a very good, kind man, and 
 would be glad to fee me. I replied, that I would, 
 if my boat and effeds in the mean time could be 
 fafe. lie faid that he would immediately return 
 to the houfe, and acquaint his mailer with it, who 
 would fend trull y negroes to bring my velfel round 
 
 the 
 
74 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the point, to the landing. I thanked him for his 
 civility, and not willing to be troublefome, I told 
 him I would leave my boat, and follow after him ; 
 fo taking my fufee on my flioulder, alter dragging 
 my bark as high up on ihore as I could, I followed 
 the Indian, and foon reached the houfe. 
 
 The gentleman received me in the mod polite 
 manner ; and, after hearing my fituation, he re- 
 quefted me to make my abode with him a few days, 
 to reft and refredi myfelf. 1 thanked him, and 
 told him I would flay a day. He immediately fent 
 {laves who brought my boat round ; and having 
 carpenters at work on a new building, he fat them 
 about repairing my veflel, which by night was com- 
 pletely refitted. 
 
 I fpent the day in the mofl agreeable manner, 
 in the fociety of this man of fmgular worth. He 
 led me over his extenfive improvements, and we 
 returned in company with feveral of his neighbours. 
 In the afternoon, the mofl fultry time of the day, 
 we retired to the fragrant (hades of an orange 
 grove. The houfe was fituated on an eminence, 
 about one hundred and fifty yards from the river. 
 On the right hand was the orangery, confiding of 
 many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left 
 (landing, when the ground about it was cleared. 
 Thefe trees were large, flourifhing, and in perfect 
 bloom, and loaded with their ripe golden fruit. 
 On the other fide was a fpacious garden, occupy- 
 ing a regular Hope of ground, down to the water ; 
 and a ple.afant lawn lay between. Here were 
 large plantations of the Indigo plant, which ap- 
 peared in a very thriving condition : it was then 
 about five or fix inches high, growing in Itrait 
 parallel rows, about eighteen inches apart. The 
 
 Corn 
 
NORTH AMERICA. y^ 
 
 Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Con vol v. Batata) were 
 greatly advanced in grovi^th, and promifcd a plen- 
 tiful crop. The Indigo made in Eaft Florida is 
 efteemed almofl equal to the bed Spanifh, efpeci- 
 ally that fort, which they call Flora. Mr. Mar- 
 {hall prefented me with a fpecimen of his own ma- 
 nufafture, at this plantation : it was very little, if 
 any, inferior to the beil Prullian blue. 
 
 In the morning following, intimating my inten- 
 tions of proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Marfliall 
 again importuned me to ftay ; but I obtained his 
 confent to depart, on my promifmg to vifit him 
 at mv return to Georgia. After breakfaft I there- 
 fore took my leave, attended to the fhore by 
 feveral flaves, leaded with ammunition and pro- 
 vifions, which my friend had provided for me. 
 On my cxprefTmg fome difficulty in receiving fo 
 large a fliare of his bounty, he civilly replied, 
 that it was too little to mention, and that, if I had 
 continued with him a day or two longer, he fliould 
 luve had 4:ime to have ferved me in a much better 
 manner. 
 
 Taking my leave of Mr. Marfliall, 1 again em- 
 barked alone on board my little vefTel, and bleffed 
 with a favourable ftcady gale, I fet fail. The 
 div was extremely pleafant ; the late thunder Horm 
 had purified the air, by difuniting and dillipating 
 the noxious vapours. The falling of heavy fliow- 
 eis, with thunder and brilk winds, from the cool 
 regions of the N, W. contributes greatly towards 
 rei'toring the falubritv of the air, and purity of 
 the waters, by precipitating the putrefcent fcum, 
 that riles from the bottom, and floats upon the 
 furface, near the fhores of the rivers, in tfiefe 
 iouthern climates, during the hot feafons. The 
 
 ill ores 
 
'jd TRAVELS IN 
 
 Ihores of this great river St. Juan are very level 
 and fhoal, extending, in fome places, a mile or two 
 into the river, betwixt the high land and the clear 
 waters of the river, which is fo level, as to be co- 
 vered not above a foot or two deep with water, and 
 at a little diifance appears as a green meadow, hav- 
 ing water-grafs and other amphibious vegetables 
 growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the 
 water. 
 
 Having a lively leading breeze, I kept as near 
 the Eaft fhore as poflible, often furprifed by the 
 plunging of alligators, and greatly delighted with 
 the pleafing profpetl of cultivation, and the increafe 
 of human induftry, which frequently itruck my 
 view from the elevated, diltant fhores. 
 
 At night I ran in fhore, at a convenient harbour, 
 where l was received and welcomed by the gentle- 
 man, who was agent for the plantation, and at vi'hofe 
 pleafant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my 
 quarters for the night. 
 
 This very civil man happened to be a perfon 
 with whom I had formerly been acquainted in St. 
 Aiiguftine ; and as he lived about twenty miles dif- 
 tant from it, I had good reafon to expect that he 
 would be a proper perfon to obtain intelligence 
 from, concerning the dillurbancesv/hich were thought 
 ftill to fubfift, between the Lower Creeks and the 
 white inhabitants of Eafl Florida. Upon inquiry, 
 and converfation with him, I found my conjedures 
 on that head to have been well founded. My friend 
 informed me, that there had, but a few days fince.; 
 been a council held at St. Auguftine, between the 
 governor of Eaft Florida and the chiefs of the 
 Lovyer Creeks. They had been delegated by their 
 
 towns. 
 
I 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 77 
 
 towns, to make inquiry concerning the late alarm 
 and depredations committed by the Indians upon 
 the traders ; which the nation being apprised of, re- 
 commended thefe deputies to be choiea and fent, 
 as foon as polTible, in order to make reafonable con- 
 ceflions, before the flame, already kindled, Ihould 
 fpread into a general war. The parties according- 
 ly met in St. Augufline, and the aifair was ami- 
 cably adjufted, to the fatisfaction of both parties. 
 The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whofe young 
 warriors had committed the mifchief, promifed to 
 indemnify the traders for the lofs of their goods, 
 and requefced that they might return to their ftore- 
 houfes, with goods as ufual, and that they (hould be 
 fafe in their perfons and property. The traders at 
 this time were aQually preparing to return. It ap- 
 peared, upon a flrid inveftigation of fads, that the 
 affair had taken its rife from the licentious conduct 
 of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole na- 
 tion, who, imagining themfelves to have been ill 
 treated in their dealings with the traders (which 
 by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this 
 violent method of doin^ themfelves juflice. The 
 culprits however endeavoured to exculpate them- 
 felves, by afferting, that thev had no defign or in- 
 tention of robbin'T the traders of their cfteds, but 
 meant it only as a threat ; and that the traders, from 
 a confcioufnefs of their difhonefty, had been terri- 
 fied and fled, leaving their florer, which they took 
 polieflion of, to prevent their being totally loft. 
 This troublefome affair being adjuded, was very 
 agreeable news -to me, as I could now, without ap- 
 prehenflons, afcend this grand liver, and vilit its 
 delightful Ihores, where and when I pleafed. 
 
 Bidding adieu to ray obliging friend, I fpread my 
 fail to the favourable breeze, and by noon came to 
 
 a-breaff 
 
ya TRAVELS IN 
 
 a-breafl of fort Picolata ; where, being deiiroas of 
 gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed ; but, to 
 my difappointment, found the fort difmantled and 
 deferted. This fortrefs is very ancient, and was built 
 by the Spaniards. It is a fquare tower, thirty feet 
 high, invefted with a high wall, without balHons, 
 about bread high, pierced with loop holes and fur- 
 rounded with a deep ditch. The upper flory is 
 open on each fide, with battlements, fupporting a 
 cupola or roof: thefe battlements were formerly 
 mounted with eight four pounders, two on each 
 fide. 
 
 The works are conflru£led with hewn flone, ce- 
 mented with lime. The ftone was cut out of quar- 
 ries on St. Anaftatius Ifland, oppofite St. Auguf- 
 tine : it is of a pale reddifh brick colour, and a tef- 
 taceous compofition, confifting of fmall fragments of 
 fea-fhells and fine fand. It is well adapted to the 
 condrufting of fortifications. It lies in horizontal 
 maffes in the quarry, and conftitutes the foundation 
 of that ifland. The caftle at St. Augufline, and 
 mofh of the buildings of the town, are of this flone. 
 
 Leaving Picolata, I continued to afcend the ri- 
 ver. I obferved this day, during my progrefs up 
 the river, incredible numbers of fmall flying infeds, 
 of the genus termed by naturalifls Ephemera, con- 
 tinually emerging from the fhallow water near fliore, 
 fome of them immediately taking their flight to 
 the land, whilft myriads crept up the grafs and 
 herbage, where remaining for a fhort time, as they" 
 acquired fuificient flrength, they took their flight 
 alfo, following their kindred to the main land. 
 This refurreftion from the deep, if I may fo ex- 
 prefs it, commences early in the morning, and ceafes 
 after the fun is up. At evening they are feen in 
 
 clouds 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 79 
 
 clouds of innumerable millions, fwarming and wan- 
 toning in the (till air, gradually drawing near the 
 river. They defcend upon its furface, and there 
 quickly end their day, after committing their eggs 
 to the deep ; which being for a little while toiled 
 about, enveloped in a vifcid fcum, are hatched, and 
 the little Larva defcend into their fecure and dark 
 habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they 
 remain, gradually increafmg in fize, until the re- 
 turning fpring : they then change to a Nymph, when 
 the genial heat brings them, as it were, into exig- 
 ence, and they again arife into the world. This 
 lly feems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and 
 fifli. In the morning, when they arife, arid in the 
 evening, when they return, the tumult is great in- 
 deed, and the furface of the water along fhore 
 broken into bubbles, or fpirted into the air, by the 
 contending aquatic tribes ; and fuch is the avidity 
 of the fifli and frogs, that they fpring into the air 
 after this delicious prey. 
 
 Early in the evening, after a pleafant day's voy- 
 age, I made a convenient and fafe harbour, in a little 
 lagoon, under an elevated bank, on the Weft fhore 
 of the river ; where I fhall entreat the reader's pa- 
 tience, whilft we behold the clofmg fcene of the 
 fliort-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each 
 other the reflexions which fo fingular an exhibition 
 might rationally fuggeft to an inquifitive mind. 
 Our place of obfervation is happily fituated under 
 the protecting (hade of majeftic Live Oaks, glo- 
 rious Magnolias, and the fragrant Orange, open to 
 the view of the great river and ftiil waters of the 
 lagoon juft before us. 
 
 At the cool eve*s approach, the fweet enchanting 
 
 melody 
 
So TRAVELS IN 
 
 melody of the feathered fongfters gradually ceafes, 
 and they betake themfelves to their leafy coverts 
 for fecurity and repofe. 
 
 Solemnly and (lowly move onward, to the ri- 
 ver's ihore, the luftling clouds of the Ephemera. 
 How awful the proceflion 1 innumerable millions of 
 winged beings, voluntarily verging on to deflruc- 
 tion, to the brink of the grave, where they behold 
 bands of their enemies with wide open jaws, ready 
 to receive them. But as if infenfible of their dan- 
 ger, gay and tranquil each meets his beloved mate 
 in the flill air, inimitably bedecked in their new 
 nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their 
 varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and flut- 
 tering on the odoriferous air ! With what peace, 
 love, and joy, do they end the lad moments of their 
 exiitence ? 
 
 I think we may aflert, without any fear of ex- 
 aggeration, that there are annually of thefe beau- 
 tiful winged beings, which rife into exiftence, and 
 for a few moments take a tranfient view of the glory 
 of the Creator's works, a number greater than the 
 whole race of mankind that have ever exifted fmce 
 the creation ; and that, only from the fhores of this 
 river. How many then muft have been produced 
 fmce the creation, when we confider the number of 
 large rivers in America, in comparifon with which, 
 this river is but a brook or rivulet. 
 
 The importance of the exiftence of thefe beau- 
 tiful and delicately formed little creatures, whofe 
 frame and organization are equally wonderful, more 
 delicate, and perhaps as complicated as thofe ot 
 the moil perfect human being, is well worth a 
 few moments contemplation j I mean particularly 
 
 when 
 
NORTH AMERICA. St 
 
 when they appear in the fly flate. And If we con- 
 fider the very (hort period of tliat Ilage of exiftence, 
 which we may rcafonably fuppofe to be the only 
 fpace of their life that admits of pkafure and enjoy- 
 ment, what a lefTon dotli it not afford us of the vanity 
 of our own purfuits ! 
 
 Their whole exiftence in this world Is but one 
 complete year : and at leaft three hundred and fixty 
 days of thiit tune they are in the form of an ugly 
 grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water, 
 and in this condition fcarcely locomotive, as each 
 Larva or grub has but its own narrow folitary cell, 
 from which it never travels or moves, but in a per- 
 pendicular progrellion of a few inches, up and down, 
 from the bottom to the furfacc of the mud, in order 
 to intercept the pafTmg atoms for its food, and get a 
 momentary refpiration of fre(h air ; and even here it 
 muft be perpetually on its guard, in order to efcape 
 the troops of fiili and ihrimps watching to catch it, 
 and from whom it has no efcape, but by inliantly 
 retreating back into its cell. One would be apt al- 
 mofl to imagine them created merely for the food of 
 lifir and other animals. 
 
 Having refted very well during the night, I was 
 awakened in the morning early, by the checrintr 
 converfe of the wild turkey-cocks (Meieagris occi- 
 dentalis) fainting each other, from the fun-bright- 
 ened tops of the lofty Cupreftus diflicha and Mag- 
 nolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, and 
 continue till fun rife, from March to the laft of 
 April. The high forefts ring with the noife, like 
 the crowing of the domeftic cock, of thefe focial 
 centlnels ; the w^atch-word being caught and repeat- 
 ed, from one to anoiher, for hundreds of miles 
 
 G around j 
 
^2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 around ; infoniuch' that the whole country is for ari' 
 hour or more in ?.n univerfal fliout. A Httle after 
 fun-rife, their ciovving gradually ceafes, they quit 
 their high lodging places, and alight on the earth, 
 where, expanding their filver bordered train, they 
 ftrut and dance round about the coy female, while 
 the deep fbrefts feem to- tremble with their fhril! 
 noife. 
 
 Tliis morning the winds on the greit rivei* were 
 high and againll me ; I was therefore obliged to 
 keep in port a great part of the day, which I em-' 
 ployed in little excurfions round about my encamp- 
 ment. The Live Oaks are of an alfonilhing magni- 
 tude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity 
 of timber ; yet, comparatively, they are not tail, even 
 in thefe forefls, where growing on flrong land, in 
 company with others of great altitude (fuch as 
 Fagus fylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnoiia grandi-^ 
 flora, and the high Falm tree) they ftrive while young 
 lo be upon an equality with their neighbours, and 
 to enjoy the influence of the fun-beams, and of the 
 pure animating air. But the others at lad prevail, 
 and their pioud heads are feen at a great dillance^ 
 towering far above the reit of the foreft, which con- 
 fi (Is chiefly of this fpecies of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus, 
 Acer, rubi;um, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata. 
 Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus, Gleditfia 
 triacanthus, and, I believe, a fpecies of Sapindus. 
 But the latter fpreads abroad his brawny arms, to 
 a great diflance. The trunk of the Live Oak is 
 generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt, 
 and rifes ten or twelve feet ere£t from the earth, 
 fome I have feen eighteen or twenty ; then di- 
 vides itfelf into three, four, or five great Hmbs, 
 
 which 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 83 
 
 which continue to grow in nearly an horizontal di- 
 redion, each limb Ibrming a gentle curve, or arch, 
 from its bafe to its extremity. I have Hepped above 
 fifty paces, on a flrait line, from the trunk of one 
 of thefe trees, to the extremity of the limbs. It is 
 ever'j:reen, and the wood almoll incorruDtible, 
 even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantity 
 of fruit ; the acorn is fmall, but fweet and agreeable 
 to the taftc when loafted, and is food for almofl ail 
 animals. The Indians obtain from it a fweet oil, 
 which they ufe in the cooking of hommony, vice, 
 &:c. ; and they alfo roalt it in hot embers, eating it 
 as we do chefnuts. 
 
 The wind being fair in the evening, I fet fail again, 
 and croffing the river, made a good harbour on the 
 Eafl fliore, where I pitched my tent for the night. 
 The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen 
 feet perpendicular from its furface, but the afcent 
 gentle. Although I arrived here early in the even- 
 ing, 1 found fufticient attractions to choofe it for my 
 lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical em- 
 ployment. It was a high, airy fituation, and com- 
 manded an exienfive and varied profpeilii of the river 
 and its (hores, up and down. 
 
 Behold yon promontory, projecting far into the 
 great river, beyond the ftill lagoon, half a mile dif- 
 tant from me : what a magnificent grove arifes on 
 its banks ! how glorious the Palm ! how majeflicaliy 
 itands the Laurel, its head forming a perfed cone ! 
 its dark green foliage feems filvered over with milk- 
 M'hite flowers. They are fo large, as to be dif- 
 tinfl:ly vifible at the diftance of a mile or more. The 
 l.aurtl Magnolias, which grow on this river, are 
 the mod beautiful and tall that I have any where 
 feen, unlefs we except thofe, which Hand on the 
 
 G 2 banks 
 
$4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 banks of the Miffiffippi ; yet even thefe mud yield 
 to thofe of St Juan, in neatnefs of form, beauty of 
 foliage, and, 1 think, in largenefs and fragrance 
 of flower. Their ,ufual height is about one hun- 
 dred feet, and fome greatly exceed that. The 
 trunk is perfectly ered, rifing in tlie form of a beau- 
 tiful column, and fupporting a head like an obtufe 
 cone. The flowers are on the extremities of the 
 fubdivifions of the branches, in the centre of a co- 
 ronet of dark green, Ihining, ovate pointed entire 
 leaves : they are large, perfectly white, and ex- 
 panded like a lull blown Rofe. They are polypeta- 
 lous, confiiling of fifteen, twenty, or twenty-five 
 petals : thefe are of a thick coriaceous texture, and 
 deeply concave, their edges being fomewhat reflex, 
 when mature. In the center (lands the young cone ; 
 which is large, of a flefii colour, and elegantly ftud- 
 ded with a gold coloured fligma, that by the end 
 of fummer Is greatly enlarged, and in the autumn 
 ripens to a large crimfon cone or ftrobile, difclofing 
 multitudes of large coral red berries, which for a 
 time hang down from them, fufpcnded by a fine, 
 white, filky thread, four, fix, or even nine inches 
 in length. The flowers of this tree are the largeft 
 and moft complete of any yet known : when fully- 
 expanded, they are of fix, eight, and nine inches 
 -diameter. The pericarpium and berries poflefs an 
 agreeable fpicy fcent, and an aromatic bitter 
 taife. The wood when feafoned is of a fl:raw co- 
 lour, compact, and harder and firmer than that of 
 the poplar. 
 
 It is really afl:onifliing to behold the Grape- Vines 
 in this place. From their bulk and ftrength, one 
 would imagine, they were combined to pull down 
 thefe mighty trees to the earth ; when, in faft, 
 
 among fl 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 85 
 
 amongfl: other good purpofes, they ferve to uphold 
 them. They are jfrequently nine, ten, and twelve 
 inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of 
 the trees, climb to their very tops, and then fpreaj 
 along their limbs, from tree to tree, thioughouL 
 the foreft : the fruit is but fmall and ill tafted. 
 The Grape vines, with the Rhamnus volubilis, Big- 
 nonia radicans, Bignonia crucigera, and another 
 rambling flirubhy vine, which feems allied to the 
 Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus fcandens, feem to tie 
 the trees together with garlands and feftoons, and 
 form enchanting fliades. The long mofs, fo called, 
 (Tillandfea ufneaoides), is a fmgular and furpiifing 
 vegetable produdion : it grows from the limbs and 
 twigs of all trees in thcfe fouthern regions, from 
 N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe every 
 where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itfelf, 
 on a limb, or branch, it fpreads into fliort and in- 
 tricate divarications ; thefe in time collect dull, 
 wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moif- 
 ture it abforbs, foftens the hark and fappy part of 
 the tree, about the roots of the plant, and ren- 
 ders it more fit for it to eftabUlh itfeU ; and from 
 -his fmall beginning, it increafe?;, by fending down- 
 wards and obliquely, on all fides, long pendant 
 branches, which divide and fubdivide themfelves 
 iid infinitum. It is common to find the fpaces be- 
 twixt the limbs of large trees, almoll occupied by 
 this plant ; it alfb hangs waving in the wind, like 
 flreamers, from the lower limbs, to the length of 
 fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight, 
 more than fevcral men together could carry ; and 
 in fome places, cart loads of it are lying on the 
 ground, torn off by the violence of the wind. 
 Any part of the living plant, torn off and caught 
 jn the limbs of a tree, v:ill prefently take root. 
 
8^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 grow, and increafe, in the fame degree of perfec- 
 tion, as if it had fprung up from the feed. When 
 frefli, cattle and deer will cat it in the winter fea- 
 fon. It feems particularly adapted to the purpofe 
 cf (luffing mattraffes, chairs, faddles, collars, ^c. ; 
 and for thefe furpofes. nothing yet known equals 
 it. The Spaniards in South America and the Weft- 
 Indies, work it into cables, that are faid to be very 
 flrong and durable; but, in order to render it ufeful, 
 it ought to be thrown into flrailow ponds of water, 
 and expofed to the fun, where it foon rots, and the 
 outfide furry fubftance is difiolved. It is then taken 
 out of the water, and fpread to dry ; when, after a 
 little beating and fhaking, it is fufficiently clean, 
 nothing remaining but the interior, hard, black, 
 elaflic filament, entangled together, and greatly re- 
 fembling horfe-hair. 
 
 The Zanthoxylum clava Herculis alfo grows here. 
 It is a beautiful fpreading tree, and much like a well 
 grown apple tree. Its aromatic berry is delicious 
 food for the little turtle dove ; and epicures fay, that 
 it gives their flefh a fine flavour. 
 
 Having finifhed my obfervations, I betook myfelf 
 to reft ; and v/hen the plunging and roaring of the 
 crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceafed, 
 I flept very well during the remainder of the night : 
 as a breeze from the river had fcattered the clouds 
 of mufquitoes that at firft infefted me. 
 
 It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I fet 
 fail early, and faw, this day, vaft quantities of the 
 Piftia ftratiotes, a very fingular aquatic plant. It 
 .affociates in large communities, or floating illands, 
 fome of them a quarter of a mile in extent, which 
 are impelled to and fro, as the wind and current 
 
•NORiTH AMERICA: 6-7 
 
 n\ay dire«5l. They are firft produced on, or dofe 
 to the fhore, in eddy water, where they gradually 
 fpread thenifelves Into the river, forming mofl: de- 
 lightful green plains, feveral miles in length, and in 
 fome places a c[uarter of a mile in breadth. Thefe 
 plants are nouriflied and kept in their proper hori- 
 zontal fituation, by means of long fibrous roots, 
 vhich defcend from the nether centre, downwards, 
 towards the muddy bottom. J/ach plant, when full 
 grown, bears a general refemblaacc to a well grown 
 plant of garden lettuce, though the leaves are more 
 nervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full green 
 colour, inclining to yellow. It vegctatec on the fur- 
 face of the ftill ftagnant water ; and in its natural 
 fituation, is propagated from feed only. In great 
 ilorms of wind and rain, when the river is fuddenly 
 raifed, large maffes of thefe floating plains are bro- 
 ken loofe, and driven from the fliores, into the >vidc 
 water, where they have the appearance of iflets, and 
 float about, until broken to pieces by the winds and 
 Vv'aves ; or driven again to fliorc, on fome diftant 
 coaft of the river, where they again find fooling, 
 and there, forming new colonics, Ipread and extend 
 themfelves again, until again broken up and dif- 
 perfed as before. Thefe floating iflands prefent a 
 very entertaining profpect ; for although we behold 
 an afl'emblage of the primary produdlions of nature 
 only, yet the imagination feems to remain in fuf- 
 penfe and doubt ; as in order to enliven the dclufion, 
 and form a moft pidurefque appearance, we fee not 
 only fiovvery plants, clumps of flirubs, old weather- 
 beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long mofs 
 waving from their inags, but we alfo fee them com- 
 pletely inhabited, arid alive, with crocodiles, ferpents, 
 l^rogs, otrer?- crow.^, lieron:., curlcvi-', jackdaw,^, S:c. 
 
 Theri^ 
 
03 TR.^VELS IN 
 
 There feems, in fhort, nothing wanted but the ap- 
 pearance of wigwam and a canoe to complete the 
 fcene. 
 
 Keeping along the Weft or Indian fliore, I faw 
 bafking, on the fcdgy banks, numbers of alligators*, 
 fome of them of an enormous fize. 
 
 The high forefts on this coaft now wore a grand 
 snd fubhme appearance ; the earth rifmg gradually 
 from the river weftward, by eafy fwelling ridges, 
 behind one another, lifting the diftant groves up in- 
 to the fides. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the 
 grand laurel magnolia, palma elata, liquidambar 
 flyraciflua, fagus lylvatica, querci, juglans hiccory, 
 fraxinus and others. 
 
 On my doubling a long point of land, the river 
 appe'ia'red furprifmgly widened, forming a large bay, 
 of an oval form, and feveral miles in extent. On the 
 Weft fide it was bordered round v/ith low marlhes, 
 and inverted with a fwamp of Cyprefs, the trees fo 
 lofty, as to preclude the fight of the high-land fo- 
 refts beyond them ; and thefe trees, having flat 
 tops, and all of equal height, feemed to be a green 
 plain, lifted up and fupported upon columns in the 
 air, round the Weft fide of the bay. 
 
 The cupreiTus difticha ftands in the firft order of 
 North American trees. Its majeftic ftature is fur- 
 prifmg ; and on approaching it we are ftruck 
 with a kind of awe, at beholding the ftatelinefs of 
 the trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the fki^s, 
 and cafting a wide lliade upon the ground, as a 
 dark intervening cloud, which, for a time, excludes 
 
 * I have made ufe of the terms alligator and crocodile indifcrlnilnatcly 
 for this animal, alligator being the country name. 
 
 tlie 
 
I 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 89 
 
 the rays of the fun. The delicacy of its colour and 
 texture of its leaves, exceed every thing in vege- 
 tation. It generally grows in the water, or in low 
 flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes, 
 that are covered, great part of the year, with two 
 or three feet depth of water ; and that part of the 
 trunk which is fubjedl to be under water, and four 
 or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged by pro- 
 digious buttrefl'es, or pilallers, which, in full grown 
 trees, proje«fl out on every fide, to fuch a dillance, 
 that feveial men might eafily hide themfelves in 
 the hollows between. Each pilalter terminates un- 
 der ground, in a very large, ftrong, ferpentine 
 root, which ftrikes off, and branches every way, 
 jult under the furface of the earth : and from thefe 
 roots grow woody cones, called cyprefs knees, four, 
 five, and fix feet high, and from fix to eighteen 
 inches and two feet in diameter at their bales. The 
 large ones are hollow, and ferve very well for bee- 
 hives ; a fmall fpace of the tree itfelf is hollow, 
 nearly as high as the buttreffcs already mentioned. 
 From this place, the tree, as it were, takes another 
 beginning, forming a grand flraight column eighty 
 or ninety feet high, when it divides every wav 
 around into an extenfive flat horizontal top, like an 
 umbrella, where eagles have their fecurc nefls, and 
 cranes and ilorks their temporary reding places ; 
 ar.d what adds to the magnificence of their appear- 
 ance is the fireamers of loni{ mofs that han? from 
 the lotty limbs and float in the winds. This is 
 their majeftic appearance when fl:anding alone, in 
 large rice plantations, or thinly planted on the 
 banks of great rivers. 
 
 Parroquets are commonly feen hovering and flut- 
 tering on their tops ; they delight to fliell the 
 
 ball?, 
 
go TRAVELS IN 
 
 balls, its feed being their favourite food. The 
 trunks of thefe trees, when hallowed out, make 
 large and durable pettiaugers and canoes, and af- 
 ford excellent fhin^les, boards, and other timber, 
 adapted to every purpofe in frame buildings. When 
 the planters fell thefe mighty trees, they raife a 
 ftage round them, as high as to reach above the 
 buttrefles ; on this flage, eight or ten negroes 
 afcend with their axes, and fall to work round its 
 trunk. I havefeen trunks of thefe trees that would 
 meafure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter, 
 for forty and fifty feet ftraight fliaft. 
 
 As I continued coafling the Indian fhore of this 
 bay, on doubling a promontory, I fuddenly faw be- 
 fore me an Indian fettlement, or village. It was a 
 fine fituation, the bank rifmg gradually from the 
 water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a 
 row, or ftreet, fronting the water, and about fifty 
 yards diftance from it. Some of the youth were 
 naked, up to their hips in the water, fifiiing with 
 rods and lines ; whilft others, younger, were divert- 
 ing themfelves in /hooting frogs with bows and ar- 
 rows. On my near approach, the little children 
 took to their heels, and ran to fome women who 
 were hoeing corn ; but the ftouter youth flood 
 their ground, and, fmiling, called to me. As I 
 paiTed along, I obferved iome elderly people re- 
 clined on fkins fpread on the ground, under the 
 cool fhade of fpreading Oaks and Palms, that were 
 ranged in front of their houfes : they arof'e, and 
 eyed me a& J paifed, but perceiving that I kept on 
 without flopping, they refumed their former po- 
 fition. They were civil, and appeared happy iu 
 their fituation. 
 
 There was a large Orange grove at the upper 
 
 en4 
 
>'ORTH AMERICA. 9I 
 
 end of their village ; the trees were large, care- 
 fully pruned, and the ground under them clean, 
 open, and airy. There feemed to be feveral hun- 
 dred acres of cleared land about the village ; a 
 coniulcrable portion of wjiich was planted, chiefly 
 with corn (Zea), Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squaflies 
 (Cucurbita verrucofa), Melons (Cucurbita citrullus). 
 Tobacco (Nicotlana), 5cc. abundantly fufTicient for 
 the inhabitants of the village. 
 
 After leaving this village, and coafling a con- 
 f;derable cove of the lake, I perceived the river be- 
 fore me much contraiited within its late bounds, 
 but ftill retaining the appearance of a wide and 
 deep river, both coafts bordered for feveral milesi 
 with rich deep fwamps, well timbered with Cyprefs, 
 Afh, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyfia 
 aquatica, Nyila tupilo, Gordonia lafiantluis, Cory- 
 pha palma, Corypha pumila, Laurus Borbonia, tNcc. 
 7'he river gradually narrowing, I came in fight of 
 Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide, 
 but deep ; and as there was a confiderable current 
 againft me, 1 came here to an anchor. This town 
 was founded by Den. Rolle, efq. and is fituated 
 on a high bluit, on the eail coaff, fifteen or twentv 
 feet perpendicular from the river, and is in length 
 half a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upper 
 llratum of the earth confifts entirely of feveral fpe- 
 cies of frefh water Cochleae, as Coch. helix, Coch. 
 Inbyrinthus, and Coch. voluta ; thefecond, of ma-^ 
 rinefhells, as Concha mytulus, Cone, oftrea. Cone, 
 pceton, Haliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, ^c. 
 mixed with fca land ; and the third, or lower ftra- 
 tum, which was a little above the common level of 
 the river, of horizontal maffes of a pretty hard 
 lock, compcfcid aimoil entirely of the above fhell, 
 generally whole, and lying in every direction, pe- 
 trified 
 
g2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 trifiecl or cemented together, with fine white fand ; 
 and thefe rocks were bedded in a (Iratuni of clay. 
 1 faw many fragments of the earthen ware of the 
 ancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongfl 
 the fhells, and mixed with the earth, to -a great 
 depth. This high fhelly bank continues, by gentle 
 parallel ridges, near a quarter of a mile back from 
 the river, gradually diminiflnng to the level of the 
 fandy plains, which widen before and on each fide 
 eallward, to a feemingly unlimited diftance, and 
 appear green and delightful, being covered wich 
 grafs and the Corypha repens, and thinly planted 
 with trees of the long leaved, or Broom Pine, and 
 decorated with clumps, or coppices, of floriferous, 
 evergreen, and aromatic flirubs, and enamelled 
 with patches of the beautiful little Kalmea ciliata. 
 Thefe flielly ridges have a vegetable furface of loofe 
 black mould, very fertile, which naturally produces 
 Orange groves, Live Oak, Laurus Borbonia, Pal- 
 ma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, Liquidambar, 
 Fraxinus, exelfior, Morus rubra, Ulmus, Tilia, 
 Sambucus, Pcelea, Tallow-nut or Wild Lime, and 
 many others. 
 
 Mr, Rolle obtained from the crown a grant of 
 forty thoufand acres of land, in any part ol: Eafl 
 Floridai, where the land was unlocated. It feems, 
 his views were to tpke up his grant near St. Mark's, 
 in the bay of Apalatchi ; and he fat fail from England, 
 with about one hundred families, for that place j 
 but by contrary winds, and ftrefs of weather, he. 
 miiTed his aim ; and being obliged to put into St. 
 Juan's, he, with fome of the principal of his ad- 
 herents, afcended the river in a boat, and being 
 flruck with its ma'clly, the grand fituationj ot its 
 banks, and fertility of its lands, and at the fame 
 time, confjdering the extenfive navigation of the 
 
 river, 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 
 
 93 
 
 river, and its near vicinity to St. Aup:un;ine, the 
 dapital and feat of government, he altered his views 
 en St. Mark's, and fuddenly determined on this 
 place, where he landed his hrfl: little colony. But 
 it feems, from an ill concerted plan in iis infant 
 eflablifhment, negligence, or extreme parfimony 
 in fending proper recruits and other neceifarit^js, 
 together with a bad choice of citizens, the fettle- 
 ment by degrees grew weaker, and at length to- 
 tally fell to the ground. Thofe of them who 
 efcaped the conilant contagious fevers, fied the 
 dreaded place, betaking themfelves for fubfilfence 
 to the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia 
 and Carolina. 
 
 The rcmaininjc old habitations are mouldering 
 to earth, except the manfion houfe, which is a 
 large frame building, of cyprefs wood, yet in 
 tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overfeer and 
 his family. There is alfo a blackfmith with his 
 fhop and family, at a fmall diftance from it. The 
 mofl: valuable diflricl: belonging to I\lr. Rolle's 
 grant, lies on Dun's lake, and on a little river, 
 which runs from it into St. Juan. This diftricl 
 confifts of a vafl body of rich fwamp land, fit for 
 the growth of rice, and lome very excellent high 
 land furrounding it. Large fvvamps of excellent 
 rice land are alfo fituated on the well fliore of the 
 river, oppofite to Charlotia. 
 
 The aborigines of America had a very great 
 town in this place, as appears from the great tu- 
 muli, and conical mounts of earth and iTiclls, and 
 other traces of a fetilement which yet remain. 
 There grew in the old fields on thefe heights, great 
 quantities of callicarpa, and of the beautiful IhruU 
 annona : the flowery of the latter are large, white, 
 and fweet fcented. 
 
 Having 
 
94 TRAV£LS I. NT 
 
 Having obtained from the people here dire(fkions 
 for difcovering the little remote ifland where the 
 traders and their goods were lecreted, which was 
 about feven miles higher up, I fat fail again, with 
 a fair wind, and in about one hour and an half 
 arrived at the defired place, having fortunately 
 taken the right channel of the river, amongfl a 
 multitude of others, occafioned by a number of 
 low fwampy iilands. But I fhould have run by the 
 landing, if the centinels had not by chance feen 
 me drawing near them ; who perceiving that I 
 was a white man, ventured to hail me ; upon which 
 I immediately ftruck fail, and came to. Upon my 
 landing they conducted me to their encampment, 
 forty or fifty yards from the river, in an almod 
 impenetrable thicket. Upon my inquiry, they con- 
 firmed the accounts of the amicable treaty at St. 
 Auguftine, and in confequence thereof, they had 
 already removed great part of the goods to the 
 trading-houfe, which was a few miles higher up, 
 on the Indian fliore. They fliowed me my cheil, 
 which had been carefully preferved, and upon in- 
 fpe6tion I found every thing in good order. Having 
 learned from them, that all the effedts would, in a 
 few days time, be removed to the Ilore-houfe, I 
 bid adieu to them, and in a little time arrived at 
 the trading-houfe, where I was received with great 
 politenefs, and treated, during a refidence of feve- 
 rai months, with the utmoft civility and fiiendfhip, 
 by Mr. C. M'Latche, MelTrs. Spalding and Keifali's 
 agent. 
 
 The river almoft from Charlotia, and for near 
 twelve miles higher up, is divided into many chaa- 
 i^Is by a great number of iflands. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 95 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Having refted myfelf a few day?, and by ranging 
 about the neighbouring plains and groves, lurround- 
 ing this pleafant place, pretty well recovered my 
 strength and fpirits, I began to think of planning my 
 future excurfions, at a diilance round about this 
 centre. 1 found, from frequent conferences with Mr. 
 M'Latche, that I might with fafety extend my 
 journevs every way, and with prudence, even into 
 the towns and fetilements of the Indians, as they 
 "were perfectly reconciled to us, and fincerely wilhed 
 for the renewal of our trade. 
 
 There were three trading-houfes to be eftablifhed 
 this fummer, each of which had its fupplies from 
 the ftore on St. Juan, where I now had my refi- 
 dence, and in which the produce or returns were 
 to centre annually, in order to be (hipped for Sa- 
 vanna orSunbury, and from thence to Europe. 
 
 One of thefe trading-houfes was to be fixed 
 about fixty miles higher up the river, from this place, 
 by the name of Spalding's upper (lore ; a fecond at 
 Alachua, about fihy miles welt from the river St. 
 Juan ; and a third at Talahafochte, a confiderable 
 town of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan, 
 near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred and 
 twenty miles diftance. Each of thefe places I de- 
 figned to vifit, before the return of the veflel to 
 Frederica in the autumn, that I might avail my- 
 felf of an opportunity fo favourable for tranfport- 
 ing my coIle£tions fo far on their way towards 
 Qharlelton. 
 
 The 
 
gS 'TkAVZLS I>f 
 
 The company for Alachua were to fet off in 
 about a month ; that to Little St. Juan, in July, 
 which fuited me exceedingly well, as I might make 
 my tour to the upper {lore direcftly, that part of the 
 country being at this feafon enrobed in its richeft 
 and gayefl apparel. 
 
 About the middle of May, every thing being in 
 readinefs to proceed up the river, we fat fail. The 
 traders with their goods in a large boat went a- 
 head, and myl'elf in my little veffel followed them ; 
 and as their boat was large, and deeply laden, I 
 found that I could eafily keep up with them, and, if 
 I chofe, out-fail them ; but 1 preferred keeping them 
 company, as well for the fake of collecting what I 
 could from converfation, as on account of my 
 fafety in eroding the great lake, expcding to 
 return alone, and defcend the river at my own 
 leifure. 
 
 We had a pleafant day, the wind fair and mode- 
 rate, and ran by Mount Hope, fo named by my fa- 
 ther John Bartram, when he afcended this river, 
 about fifteen years ago. It is a very high fhelly bluff, 
 upon the little lake. It was at that time a fine 
 Orange grove, but now cleared and converted into a 
 large indigo plantation, the property of an Englifh 
 gentleman, under the care of an agent. In the 
 evening we arrived at Mount Royal, where we came 
 to, and flayed all night : we were treated with great 
 
 civility, by a gentleman whofc name was 
 
 Kean, and who had been an Indian trader. 
 
 From this place we enjoyed a mofl: enchanting 
 profpeft of the great Lake George, through a grand 
 avenue, if I may fo term this narrow reach of the 
 liver, which widens gradually for about twoMniles, 
 
 towards 
 
NO^TH, AMERICA. 07 
 
 towards its entrance into the lake, fo as to elude 
 the exa^t rules of perfpeclive, and appears of an 
 equal width. 
 
 At about fifty yards diflance from the landing 
 place, ftands a magnificent Indian mount. About 
 fifteen years ago 1 vifited this place, at which time 
 there were no fettlements of white people, but all 
 appeared wild and favage ; yet in that uncultivated, 
 ftate it pofleffed an almofl inexpreflible air of gran- 
 deur, which was now entirely changed. At that 
 time there was a very confiderable extent of old 
 fields round about the mount ; there was alfo a 
 large orange grove, together with palms and live 
 oaks, extending from near the mount, along the 
 banks, downwards, all of which- has fmce been 
 cleared away to make room for planting ground. 
 But what greatly contributed towards" completing 
 the magnificence of the fcene, was a noble Indiaa 
 highway, which led from the great mount, on a 
 /Iraight line, three quarters of a mile, firft through a 
 point or wing of the orange grove, and continuing 
 thence through an awful forelt of live oaks, it was 
 terminated by palms and laurel magnolias, on the 
 verge of an oblong artificial lake, which was on 
 the edge ot an extenfive green level favanna. This 
 grand highway was about fifty yards wide, funk 
 a little below the common level, and the earth 
 thrown up on each fide, making a bank of about 
 two feet high. Neither nature nor art could any 
 where prefent a more Itriking contrail, as you ap- 
 proached this favanna. The glittering water pond 
 plavcd on the fight through the dark grove, like a 
 hrllliant diamond, on the bofom of the illumined 
 Javanna, bordered with various flov.ery Ihrubs and 
 plains J arid as we advanced into the plain, the 
 
 H fight 
 
9^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 fight was agfeeably relieved by a dillant view of the 
 lorefts, which partly environed the green expanfe on 
 the left hand, whillt the imagination was flill flatter- 
 ed and entertained by the far diftant mifty points 
 of the furrounding forefls, which projeded into the 
 plain, alternately appearing and difappcaring, mak- 
 ing a grand fw^p round on the right, to the diflant 
 banks of the great lake. But that venetable grove 
 is now no more. All has been cleared away and 
 planted with indigo, corn, and cotton, but fmce de- 
 ferted : there was now fcarcely five acres of ground 
 under fence. It appeared like a defart to a great 
 extent, and terminated, on the land fide, by fright- 
 i'ul thickets, and open pine forefts. 
 
 It appears, however, that the late proprietor had 
 fome tafte, as he has preferved the mount and this 
 little adjoining grove inviolate. The profpect from 
 this ftation is fo happily lituated by nature as to 
 comprife at one view the whole of the fublimeand 
 pleafing. 
 
 At the reanimating appearance of the rifmg fun, 
 nature again revives ; and I obey the cheerful fum- 
 mons of the gentle monitors of the meads and 
 groves. 
 
 Ye vigilant and faithful fervants of the Mofl High! 
 ye who worfhip the Creator morning, noon, and 
 eve, in fimplicity of heart ! I hafte to join the uni- 
 verfal anthem. My heart and voice unite with 
 yours, in fincere homage to the great Creator, the 
 univerfal fovereign. 
 
 O may I be permitted to approach the throne of 
 mercy ! May thefc my humble and penitent fuppli* 
 Cations, amidfl the univerfal fliouts of homage froai 
 thy creatures, meet with thy acceptance ! 
 
 And 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 59 
 
 And although I am fenfible, that my fervice can- 
 not increafe or diminilh thy glory, yet it is pleafmg 
 to thy fervant to be permitted to found thy praife ; 
 for, O fovereign Lord ! we know that thou alone 
 art perfect, and worthy to be worfliipped. O uni- 
 verfal Father ! look down upon us, v.-e we befeech. 
 thee, with an eye of pity and compaffion, and grant 
 that uni verfal peace and love may prevail in the 
 earth, even that divine harmony which nils the hea- 
 vens, thy glorious habitation ! 
 
 And, O fovereign Lord ! fince it has pleafed thee 
 to endue man with power and pre-eminence here 
 on earth, and eftablifh his dominion over all crea- 
 tures, may we look up to thee, that our under- 
 ftanding may be fo illuminated with wifdom, and 
 nur hearts warmed and animated with a due fenfe of 
 charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will, and 
 perforni our duty towards thofe fubmitted to our 
 fervice and protection, and be merciful to them, 
 even as we hope for mercy. 
 
 Thus may we be worthy of the dignity and fupe- 
 liority of the high and diftinguifhed Itation in which 
 thou haft placed us here on earth. 
 
 The morning being fair, and having a gentle fa- 
 vourable gale, we left our pleafant harbour in pur- 
 fuit of our defired port. 
 
 Now as we approach the capes, behold the little 
 ocean of Lake George, the diftant circular coalt 
 gradually rifing to view, from his mifty fringed 
 horizon. I cannot entirely fupprefs my apprehen- 
 fions of danger. My veltel at once diminiihed to 
 a nut-fliell, on the fwelling feas, and at the dif- 
 tance of a few miles, mufl appear to the furprifed 
 H ?. ebierver 
 
f^O - TRAVELS IN 
 
 obferver as fome aquatic animal, at intervals emerg- 
 ing from its furface. This lake is a large and 
 beautiful piece of water ; it is a dilatation of the 
 river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and 
 generally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, except- 
 ing at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar, 
 which carries eisjht or nine feet water. The lake 
 is beautified with two or three fertile iflands. The 
 firft lies in the bay, as we afcend into the lake, near 
 the weft coaft, about S. W. from Mount Roya)^ 
 from whence it appears to form part of the weft 
 fhore of the bay. The fecond ifland feems to ride 
 on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile with- 
 in it. This ifland is about two miles in breadth, 
 and three quarters of a mile where broadeft, moftly 
 high land, well timbered and fertile. The third and 
 laft lies at the fouth end of the lake, and near the 
 entrance of the river ; it is nearly circular, and con- 
 tains but a few acres of land, the earth high and fer- 
 tile, and almoft an entire orange grove, with grand 
 magnolias and palms. 
 
 Soon after entering the lake, the wind blew Co 
 brifkly from the weft, with thunder-clouds gather- 
 ing upon the horizon, that we were obliged to feek 
 a fhelter from the approaching tempeft, on the large 
 beautiful ifland before mentioned ; where, having 
 gained the fouth promontory, we met with an ex- 
 cellent harbour, in which we continued the remain- 
 ing part of the day and the night. 'J'hrs circum- 
 ftance gave me an opportunity to explore thegreatefl 
 part ol it. 
 
 This ifland appears, from obvious veftiges, to 
 have been once the chofen refiden.ce of an Indian 
 prince, there being to this day evident remains of 
 
 a larg:e 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 1 ©| 
 
 a large town of the Aborigines. It was fituat^d on 
 an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and com- 
 manded a comprehenfive and charming profpeift of 
 the waters, iflands, eaft and well lliores of the lake, 
 the capes, the bay, and Mount Royal ; and to the 
 fouth the view is in a manner infinite, where th'^ 
 fkies and waters fecm to unite. On the fite of this 
 ancient town, ftands a very pompous Indian mount, 
 or conical pyramid of earth, from which runs in a 
 ftrait line a grand avenue or Indian highway, 
 through a magnificent grove of magnolias, live 
 oaks, palms, and orange trees, terminating at the 
 verge of a large green level favanna. This ifland 
 appears to have been well inhabited, as is very evi- 
 dent, from the quantities of fragments of Indian 
 earthenware, bones of animals and other remains, 
 particularly in the flielly heights and ridges all over 
 the ifland. There are no habitations at prefcnt on 
 the ifland, but a great number of deer, turkeys, 
 bears, wolves, wild cats, fquirrcls, racoons, and 
 opofl'ums. The bears are invited here to partake 
 of the fruit of the orange tree, which they are im- 
 moderately fond of; and both they and turkeys are 
 made extremely fat and delicious, from their feeding 
 on the fweet acoins of the live oak. 
 
 There grow on this ifland many curious flirubs, 
 particularly a beautiful fpecies of lantana (perhaps 
 lant. camerara, Lin. Syfl. A^eget. p. 473). It 
 grows in coppices in old fields, about five or fix: 
 feet high, the branches adorned with rough fer- 
 rated leaves, which fit oppofite, and the twigs ter- 
 minated with umbelliferous* tufts of orange coloured 
 bloflToms, which are fucceeded by a duller of fmall 
 blue berries : the flowers are of various colours, on 
 the fame plant, and even in the fame cluifer, as 
 
102 TRAVELS IN 
 
 crimfon, fcarlst, orange and golden yellow : the 
 \vhoIe plant is of a moll agreeable fcent. The 
 orange-flowered fliruh Hibifciis is alfo confpicuoufly 
 beautiful (perhaps Hibifc. fplnifex of Linn. ) It grows 
 five or fix feet high, and fubramous. The branches 
 are divergent, and furnifhed with cordated leaves, 
 which are crenated. The flowers are of a mode- 
 rate fize, and of a deep fplendid yellow. The pe- 
 ricarpii are fpiny. I alfo faw a new and beautit^ul 
 palmatcd leaved convolvulus*. This vine rambles 
 over the flirubs, and flrolls about on the ground ; 
 its leaves are elegantly fituated, of a deep grafs 
 green, and fit on long petioles. The flowers are 
 very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate co- 
 lour, having a deep crimfon eye. 
 
 There are fome rich fvvamps on the fliores of the 
 ifiand, and thefe are verged on the outfide with 
 large marflies, covered entirely with tall grafs, 
 ruflies, and herbaceous plants ; amongft thele are 
 fcveral fpecies of Ilibilcus, particularly the hibif- 
 cus cocineus. This moft (lately of all herbaceous 
 plants grows ten or twelve feet high, branching 
 regularly, fo as to form a fharp cone. Thefe 
 branches alfo divide again, and are embellifhed 
 vith large expanded crimfon flowers. 1 have feen 
 this plant of the fize and figure of a beautilul httle 
 tree, having at once feveral hundred of thefe fplen- 
 did flowers, which may be then feen at a great 
 diilance. They continue to flower in fuccefiion 
 all fummer and autumn, when the ftems wither 
 :ind decay ; but the perennial root fends forth new 
 liems the next fpring, and fo on for many years. 
 Its leaves arc large, deeply and elegantly finuated 
 having ilx or fcven very narrow dentated feg- 
 
 * Couvol. diile^ftus, 
 
 mentsj 
 
NORTH AMERICA. iSj 
 
 ments ; the furface of the leaves, and of the whole 
 plant, is fmooth and pohflied. Another fpecies 
 of hibifcus, worthy of paiticular notice, is like^ 
 wife a tall flourifhing plant ; feveral flrong flcms 
 arife from a root, five, fix, and feven feet high, 
 embelliflied with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered 
 with a fine down on tiieir nether furfaccs : the 
 flowers are very large, and of a deep incarnate co- 
 lour. 
 
 The lad we fliall nov*' mention feems nearly al- 
 lied to the alcea ; the flowers are a fize lefs than 
 the hibifcus, and of a fine damafl; rofe colour, and 
 are produced in great profufion on the tall pyrami- 
 dal ftems. 
 
 The lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here, 
 and has a mod fplendid appearance amidft extenfive 
 meadows of the golden corymbous jacobea (fenecio 
 jacobea) and odorous pancratiiAn. 
 
 Having finifned my tour en this princely ifland, 
 I prepared for repofe. A calm evening had fuc- 
 ceeded the llormy day. The late tumultuous winds 
 had now ceafed, the face of the lake had become 
 placid, and the fkies ferene ; the baimy winds 
 breathed the animating odours of the groves around 
 me ; and as I reclined on the elevated banks of the 
 lake, at the foot of a live oak, I enjoyed the prof- 
 peel of its wide Vv'aters, its fringed coafis, and the 
 diftant horizon. 
 
 The fquadrons of aquatic fowls, emerging out 
 of the water, and haftening to their leafy coverts on 
 jhnre, clofed the varied fcenes of the paft day. I 
 was lulled afleep by the mixed founds of the wearied 
 
 furf^ 
 
1C>4 TRAVELS m 
 
 furf, lapfing on the hard beaten fliore, and the ten- 
 der warblings of the painted nonpareil and other 
 "winged inhabitants of the grove. 
 
 At the approach of day the dreaded voice of the 
 aUigators fliook the ifie, and refounded along the 
 neighbouring coafts, proclaiming the appearance of 
 the glorious fun. I arofe, and prepared to accom- 
 plifli my daily talk. A gentle favourable gale led 
 us out of the harbour : \vc failed acrofs the lake, 
 and tovt'ards evening entered the river on the op- 
 pofite fouth coaft, where we made a pleafant and 
 fafe harbour, at a fhelly promontory, the eaft cape 
 of the river on that fide of the lake. It is a moft 
 d-firable fituatior, commanding a full view of the 
 lake. The cape oppofite to us was a valt cyprels 
 fwamp, environed by a border of grafly marfhe?, 
 which were projected farther into the lake by floar- 
 ing fields of the bright green pillia ftratoiies, which 
 rofe and fell alternately with the waters. Jufl to 
 leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the 
 lake is the little round illand already mentioned. 
 But let us take notice of our harbour and its envi- 
 rons : it is a beautiful little cove juft within the 
 fandy point, which defends it from the beating 
 furf of the lake. From a fhelly bank, ten or 
 twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we en- 
 tered a grove of live oaks, palm, magnolia, and 
 orange trees, which grow amongft ihelly hills, and 
 low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground, 
 comprehending the ilthmus, and a part of the penin- 
 fula, which joins it to the graify plains. This en- 
 chanting little foreft is partly encircled by a deep 
 creek, a branch of the river, that has its fource in 
 the high forells of the main, fouth eaft from us ; 
 und winds through the extenfive grafly plains which 
 
 furround 
 
NORTH AMERICA. IO5 
 
 furround this peninfula, to an almofl infinite dif- 
 tance, and then unites its waters with thofe of the 
 river, in this little bay which formed our harbour. 
 This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almofl 
 covered with the leaves of the nymphica nelumbo : 
 its large fweet-fcented yellow flowers are lifted up 
 two or three feet above the furface of the water, 
 each upon a green flarol, reprefenting the cap of li- 
 berty. 
 
 The evening drawing on, and there being no 
 convenient landing place for feveral miles higher up 
 the river, we concluded to remain here all night. 
 Whilfl my fellow travellers were employing them- 
 fclves in colleding fire-wood, and fixing our camp, 
 I improved the opportunity, in recoanoitering our 
 ground ; and taking my fufee with me, I penetrated 
 the grove, and afterwards entered fome almofl un- 
 limited favannas and plains, which were abfolutely 
 enchanting ; they had been lately burnt by the In- 
 dian hunters, and had juft now recovered their vernal 
 verdure and gaiety. 
 
 How happily fituated is this retired fpot of earth ! 
 What an elyfium it is ! where the wandering Simi- 
 nole, the naked red warrior, roams at large, and 
 after the vigorous chafe retires from the fcorching 
 heat of the meridian fun. Here he reclines, and 
 repofes under the odoriferous Ihadcs of Zanthoxy- 
 lon, his verdant couch guarded by the Deity ; Li- 
 berty, and ihe Mules, infpiring him with wifdoni 
 and valour, whilfl the balmy zephyrs Ian him to 
 fleep. 
 
 Seduced by thefe fublime enchanting fcenes of 
 primitive nature, and thefe vifions of terreftrial hap- 
 pinefs, 1 had roved far away from Cedar Point, but 
 
 awakening 
 
ic6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 awakening to my cares, I turned about, and in the 
 evening regained our camp. 
 
 On my return, I found fome of my companions 
 fifiiing for trout, round about the edges of the float- 
 ing nympheea, and not unfuccefsfully, having then, 
 caught more than fufTicient for us all. As the me- 
 thod of taking thcfe fifii is curious and fmgular, I 
 Ihall juft mention it. 
 
 They are taken with a hook and line, but with- 
 out any bait. Two people are in a little canoe, one 
 fitting in the ftern to (teer, and the other near the 
 bow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, to 
 one end of which is tied a ftrong line, about twenty 
 inches in length, to which are fattened three large 
 hooks, back to back. Thefe are fixed very fecurely, 
 and covered with the white hair of a deer's tail, 
 ihreds of a red garter, and fome particoloured fea- 
 thers, all which form a tuft, or taffel, nearly as 
 large as one's fift, and entirely cover and conceal 
 the hooks : this is called a bob. The fteerfinan 
 paddles foftly, and proceeds llowly along fiiore, 
 keeping the boat parallel to it, at a diftance juft 
 fuificient to admit the fillierman to reach the edge 
 of the floating weeds along fliore ; he now ingeni- 
 oufly fwings the bob backwards and forwards, juft 
 above the furface, and fometimes tips the water 
 with it ; when the ^unfortunate cheated troat in- 
 flantly fprings from under the weeds, and feizes the 
 fuppofed prey. Thus he is caught without a pofli- 
 bility of efcape, unlcfs he break the hooks, line, or 
 rod, which he, however, fomethnes does by dint of 
 flrength ; but, to prevent this, the fifiierman ufed 
 to the fport is careful not to raife the reed fiiddenly 
 up, but jerks it inftantly backwards, then (teadiiy 
 drags the fturdy relu6tant fifh to the fide of the 
 
 canoe. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 10/ 
 
 canoe, and with a fudden upright jerk brings hiiii 
 into it. 
 
 The head of this fifh makes about one third of his 
 length, and confequently the mouth is very large : 
 birds, filh, frogs, and even ferpents, are frequently 
 found in its flomach. 
 
 The trout is of a lead colour, inclining to a deep 
 blue, and marked with tranfverfe waved lifis, of a 
 deep flate colour, and when fully grown, has a cad 
 o{ red or brick colour. The fins, with the tail, 
 which is large and beautifully formed, are of alight 
 reddiili purple, or flelh colour ; the whole body is 
 covered with large fcales. But what is mofl fin- 
 gular, this fifh is remarkably ravenous ; nothing; 
 living that he can feize upon efcapes his jaws ; and 
 the opening and extending of the branchioftega, at 
 the moment he rifes to the furfacc to feize his prey., 
 difcovering his bright red gills through the trant- 
 parent waters, give him a very terrible appearance. 
 Indeed it may be obferved that all fifii of prey have 
 this opening and covering of the gills very large, in 
 order to difcharge the great quantity of water which 
 they take in at their mouth, when they ftrike at their 
 prey. This fifli is nearly cuneiform, the body ta- 
 pering gradually from the breaft to the tail, and 
 Hghtly comprelVed on each fide. They frequently 
 weigh fifteen, twenty, and thirty pounds, and arc 
 delicious food. 
 
 My companion, the trader, being defirous- of 
 crofiing the river to the oppofite fliore, in hopes of 
 getting a turkey, I chofe to accompany him, as it 
 offered a good opportunity to obferve the natural 
 productions of thole rich fwamps and iflands of 
 the river. Having crofled the river, which is here 
 
 five 
 
io8 TRAVi:n In- 
 
 five or fix hundred yards wide, we entered a narrow 
 channel, w-hich, alter a Terpentine courle for rome 
 miles, rejoins the main river again, above ; form- 
 ing a large fertile iiland, of rich low land. We 
 landed on this ifland, and foon faw a line roebuck* 
 at fome diflance from u?, who appeared leader of a 
 company of deer that were feeding near him on the 
 I'erge of a green meadow. My companion parted 
 from me in purfuit of the deer, one way; and I, 
 cbferving a flock of turkeys at fome dilfance, on 
 the other, direded my fteps towards them, and 
 with great caution got near them ; when, fmgling 
 out a large cock, and being juft on the point of 
 firing, I obferved that feveral young cocks were af- 
 frighted, and in their language warned the relt 
 to be on their guard againlt an enemy, whom I 
 plainly perceived was induftrioufly making his fub- 
 tile approaches towards them, behind the fallen 
 trunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. This 
 cunning fellow-hunter was a large fat wild cat 
 (lynx): he faw me, and at times feemcd to watch 
 my motions, as if determined to feize the delicious 
 prey before me. Upon which 1 changed my objed, 
 and levelled my piece at him. At that inftant, my 
 companion, at a diflance, alfo difcharged his piece 
 at the deer, the report of which alarmed the tlock 
 of turkeys ; and my fellow-hunter, the cat, fprang 
 over the log and trotted oft^ The trader alfo miflfed 
 his deer : thus we foiled each other. By this time 
 it being near night, we returned to camp, where 
 having a delicious meal ready prepared for our hun- 
 gry ftornachs, we fat down in a circle round our 
 wholefome repaft. 
 
 How fupremely blefled were our hours at thii 
 time I plenty of delicious and healthful food, our 
 
 * CervuR fylvaticus. lliC Aincruan d-eer. 
 
 itomacU* 
 
 1 
 
NORTH AMERIQA. lOQ 
 
 flomachs keen, with contented minds ; under no 
 controul, but what reafon and ordinate paflions dic- 
 tated, far removed from the feats of ftrife. 
 
 Our fituation was like that of the primitive ftate 
 of man, peaceable, contented, and fociable. The 
 fimple and necellary calls of nature being fatisfied, 
 we were altogether as brethren of one family, ftran- 
 gers to envy, malice, and rapine. 
 
 The night being over we arofe, and purfucd our 
 courle up the river ; and in the evening reached the 
 trading-houfe, Spalding's upper ftore, where 1 took 
 up my quarters for feveral weeks. 
 
 On our arrival at the upper ftore, we found it 
 occupied by a white trader, v;^ho had for a compa- 
 nion a very handfome Siminole young woman. Her 
 father, who was a prince by the name of the White 
 Captain, was an old chief of the Siminoles, and with 
 part of his family, to the number of ten or twelve, 
 was encamped in an orange grove near the Itores, 
 having lately come in from a hunt. 
 
 This white trader, foon after our arrival, deli- 
 vered up the goods and ftore-houfes to my compa- 
 nion, and joined his father-in-law's camp, and foon 
 after went away into the forefts on hunting and tra- 
 ding amongft the flying camps of Siminoles. 
 
 He is at this time unhappy in his connexions with 
 his beautiful favage. It is but a few years fince he 
 came here, I think from north Carolina, a llout 
 genteel well-bred man, aftive, and of a heroic and 
 amiable difpofition ; and by his indudry, honeltv, 
 and enga^iini; manners, had tained the afieclions oF 
 the Indians, and foon made a little fortune by traffic 
 
 with 
 
lid • TRAVELS IN 
 
 wlth the Siminoles : when unfortunately meeting 
 with this little charmer, they were married in the 
 Indian manner. He loves her fmcerely, as (he pof- 
 fefles every perfection in her perfon to render a man 
 happy. Her features are beautiful, and manners 
 engaging. Innocence, modeily, and love, appear 
 to a ftranger in every a6lion and movement ; and 
 thefe povv^erlul graces Ihe has fo artfully played upon 
 her beguiled and vanquilhed lover, and unhappy 
 flave, as to have already drained him of all his pof- 
 feflions, which fhe difl.oneftly diltributes amongft 
 her favage relations. He is now poor, emaciated, 
 and half didra&ed, often threatening to fhoot her, 
 and afterwards put an end to his own life ; yet he has 
 not refolution even to leave her ; but novV endea- 
 vours to drown and forget his forrows in deep 
 draughts of brandy. Her father condemns her dif- 
 honefl and cruel condud. 
 
 Thefe particulars were related to me by my old 
 friend the trader, dire6lly after a long conference 
 which he had with the White Captain on the fub- 
 jecl, his fon-in-law being prefent. The fcene was 
 affecling ; they both flied tears plentifully. My 
 reafons for mentioning this affair, fo foreign to my 
 bufmefs, was to exhibit an inftance of the power of 
 beauty in a favage, and her art and fineffe in im- 
 proving it to her private ends. It is, however, 
 but doing juflice to the virtue and moral conduQ: of 
 the Siminoles, and American aborigines in general, 
 to obferve, that the charafler of this woman is 
 condemned and detefted by her own people of both 
 fexes ; and if her hufband fliould turn her away, 
 according to the cuftoms and ufages of thcfc people, 
 file would not get a hufband again, as a divorce 
 leldom takes place but in confequence of a delibe- 
 rate 
 
NORTH AMERICA. II f 
 
 rat<^ impartial trial, and public condemnation, and 
 then Ihe would be looked upon as a harlot. 
 
 Such is the virtue of thefe untutored favages ; 
 but I am afraid this is a common phrafe epithet, 
 having no meaning, or at lead improperly applied ; 
 for thefe people are both well tutored and civil ; an d 
 it is apparent to an impartial obferver, who refides 
 but a little time amongfl: them, that it is from the 
 mod delicate fcnfe of the honour and reputation of 
 their tribes and families, that their laws and cuftoms 
 receive their force and energy. This is the divine 
 principle which influences their moral condud, and 
 folely prefcrves their conflitution and civil govern- 
 ment in that purity in which they are found to pre- 
 vail amongft them. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Hi TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Being defirous of continuing my travels and ob- 
 fervations higher up the river, and having an invi* 
 tation from a gentleman who was agent for, and 
 refident at, a large plantation, the property of ^an. 
 Englifh gentleman, about fixty miles higher up, I 
 refolved to purfue my refearches to that place ; and 
 having engaged in my fervice a young Indian, ne- 
 phew to the White Captain, he agreed to aflilt me 
 in working my veflel up as high as a certain bluff, 
 "wheie I was, by agreement, to land him, on the 
 Weft or Indian fhore, whence he defigned to go in 
 quefl of the camp of the White Trader, his relation. 
 
 Provifions and all necefiaries being procured, 
 and the morning pleafant, we went on board and 
 flood up the river. We paffed for feveral miles on 
 the left, by ifiands of high fwamp land, exceedingly 
 fertile, their banks for a good diftance from th^ wa- 
 ter, much higher than the interior part, and fufii- 
 ciently fo to build upon, and be out of the reach of 
 inundations. They confilt of a loofe black mould, 
 wdth a mixture of fand, fhells, and diflblved vege- 
 tables. The oppofite Indian coafl is a perpendicu- 
 lar bluff, ten or twelve feet high, confilting of a 
 black fandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of 
 Jhells, chiefly various fpecies of frefh water cochleae 
 and mytuli. Near the river, on this high Ciore, 
 grew ccrypha palma, magnolia grandiflora, live 
 oak, callicarpa, myrica ccrifera, hybifcus fpinifex, 
 and the beaudful evergreen fhrub called wild lime 
 or tallow nut. This lafl fhrub grows fix or, eight 
 lect high, many ercQ. items fpring from a root ; 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. II : 
 
 the leaves are lanceolate and entire, two or three 
 inches in length and one in breadth, of a deep green 
 colour, and polifhed ; at the foot of each leaf grows 
 a ftifF (harp thorn ; the flowers are fmall and ia 
 clullers, of a greenilh yellow colour, and fweet 
 fcented ; they are fucceeded by a large oval fruit, 
 of the fhape and fize of an ordinary plumb, of a 
 iine yellow colour when ripe ; a foft fweet pulp co- 
 vers a nut which has a thin fliell, enclofing a white 
 kernel fomewhat of the confidence and talte of the 
 fweet almond, but more oily and very much like 
 Jiard tallow, which induced my father when he firlt 
 obferved it, to call it the tallow-nur. 
 
 At the upper end of this bluff is a fine orange 
 grove. Here my Indian companion rcquefted me 
 to fet him on fnore, being already tired of rowing 
 under a fervid fun, and having for fome time inti- 
 mated a dillikc to his fituation. I readily complied 
 with his defire, knowing the impoliibility of com- 
 pelling an Indian ugainlt his own inclinations, or 
 even prevailing upon him by reafonable arguments, 
 when labour is in the queflion. Before my velfel 
 reached the (hore, he fprang out of her and landed, 
 when uttering a flirill and terrible whoop, he bound- 
 ed off like a roebuck, and I loft fight of him. I at 
 firft apprehended, that as he took his gun with him, 
 he intended to hunt for fome game and return to me 
 in the evening. The day being exceffively hot and 
 fultry, I concluded to take up my quarters here until 
 next morning. 
 
 The Indian not returning this morning, I fet fail 
 alone. The coafts on each fide had much the fame 
 appearance as already defcribed. The palm trees 
 here feem to be of a different fpecies from the cabbage 
 tree J their ftraight trunks are fixtv, eighty, or ninety 
 
 X ' feet 
 
If4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 feet high, with a beautiful taper, of a bright afh co- 
 lour, until within fix or feven feet of the top, where 
 it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of 
 rich green plumed leaves : I have meafured the ftem 
 of thefe plumes fifteen feet in length, befides the 
 plume, which is nearly of the fame length. 
 
 The little lake, which is an expanfion of the ri- 
 ver, now appeared in view ; on the eall fide are ex- 
 tenfive marihes, and on the other, high forefts and 
 orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vaft cy- 
 prefs fwamps, both coalls gradually approaching 
 each other, to the opening of the river again, which 
 is in this place about three hundred yards wide. Even- 
 ing now drawing on, I was anxious to reach fome 
 high bank of the river, where I intended to lodge ; 
 and agreeably to my wiflies, I loon after difcovered 
 on the weft fliore a little promontory, at the turning 
 of the river, contrading it here to about one hun- 
 dred and fifty yards in width. This promontory is 
 a peninfula, containing about three acres of high 
 ground, and is one entire orange grove, with a few 
 live oaks, magnolias and palms. Upon doubling 
 the point, I arrived at the landing, which is a cir- 
 cular harbour, at the foot of the bli^lf, the top of 
 which is about twelve feet high ; the back of it is 
 a large cyprefs fwamp, that fpreads each way, the 
 right wing forming the well coalt of the little lake, 
 and the left ftretching up the river many miles, and 
 encompalfing a vail fpace of low giaify marfhes, 
 Ftx)m this promontory, looking eaftward acrofs the 
 river, 1 beheld a landfcape of low country, unpar- 
 ralleled as 1 think ; on the left is the eaft coaft of the 
 little lake, which I had juft pafTed ; and from the 
 orange bluff at the lower end, the high forefts begin, 
 and increafe in breadth from the, fhore of the lake, 
 
 making 
 
NORTH AMERICA. II5 
 
 making a circular fweep to the right, and contain 
 many hundred thoufand acres of meadow ; and this 
 grand fweep of high forefts encircles, as I appre- 
 hend, at lead twenty miles of thefe green fields, 
 interfperfcd with hommocks or iflets of evergreen 
 trees, where the fovereign magnolia and lordly 
 palm ftand confpicuous. The illets are high Ilielly 
 knolls, on the fides of creeks or branches of the ri- 
 ver, which wind about and drain otFthe fapcrabun- 
 dant waters that cover thefe meadows during the 
 winter feafon. 
 
 The evening was temperately cool and calm. 
 The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncom- 
 mon numbers along the fhores and in the river. I 
 fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmolt 
 projcdlion of the promontory, under the Ihelter of 
 a large live oak, which (tood on the highefl part 
 of the ground, and but a few yards from my boat. 
 From this open, high fituation, I had a free prof- 
 ped: of the river, which was a matter of no trivial 
 confideration to me, having good reaibn to dread 
 the fubile attacks of the alligators, who were crowd- 
 ing about my harbour. Having collected a good 
 » quantity of wood for the purpofe oF keeping up a 
 light and fmoke during the night, I began to think 
 of preparing my fupper, when, upon examining my 
 flores, I found but a fcanty provifion. I thereupon 
 determined, as the mod expeditious way oi fupply- 
 ing my neceflities, to take my bob and try for fome 
 trout. About one hundred yards above my har- 
 bour began a cove or bay of the river, out of which 
 opened a large lagoon. The mourh or entrance 
 from the river to it was narrow, but the waters 
 foon after fpread and formed a little lake, extend- 
 ing into the marlhcs : its entrance and fliore^ with- 
 
 1 2 ill 
 
 I 
 
H6 . TRAVELS IN 
 
 in I obferved to be verged with floating lawns of the 
 piftia and nymphea and other aquatic plants j thelc 
 I knew were excellent haunts for trout. 
 
 The verges and iflets of the lagoon were ele- 
 gantly embelliflied with flowering plants and flirubsj 
 the laughing coots with wings half fpread were trip- 
 ping over the little coves and hiding thenifelves in 
 the tufts of grafs ; young broods of the painted fum- 
 mer teal, flcimming the ftill furface of the waters, 
 and following the watchful parent unconfcious of 
 danger, were frequently furprifed by the voracious 
 trout; and he, in turn, as often by the fubtle 
 greedy alligator. Behold him rufhing forth from 
 the flags and reeds. • His enormous body fwells. 
 His plaited tail brandifhed high, floats upon the 
 lake. The waters like a cataracl defcend from his 
 opening jaws. Clouds of fmoke iflTue from his di- 
 lated noftrils. The earth trembles w ith his thunder. 
 When immediately from the oppofite coafl: of the 
 lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion. 
 They fuddenly dart upon each other. The boiling 
 furface of the lake marks their rapid courfe, and a 
 terrific conflid: commences. They now fmk to 
 the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The^ 
 water becomes tliick and difcoloured. Again they 
 rife, their jaws clap together, re-echoing through 
 the deep furrounding foreits. Again they fmk, -when 
 the conteft ends at the muddy bottom of the lake, 
 ?.nd the vanquiflied makes a hazardous efcape, hid- 
 ing himfelf in the muddy turbulent waters and fedge 
 on a dillant fliore. The proud victor exulting re- 
 turns to the place of aCiion. 'I'he ihores and foreflis 
 relound his dreadful roar, together with the triumph- 
 ing fliouts of thefe plaited tribes around, witnelfes 
 of the horrid combat. 
 
 My 
 
NORTH AMERICA. II7 
 
 My apprehenfions were highly alarmed after be- 
 ing a fpectator of fo dreadful a battle. It was ob- 
 vious that every delay would but tend to encreafe 
 my dangers and difficulties, as the fun was near, 
 fetting, and the alligators gathered around my har- 
 bour from all OjUarters. From thcfe confi derations 
 I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the la- 
 goon, in order to take fome fifli. Not thinking it 
 prudent to take my fufee with mc, left I might 
 lofe it overboard in cafe of a battle, which I had 
 every reafon to dread before my return, I therefore 
 furnilhed myfelf with a club for my defence, went 
 on board, and penetrating the firil line of thofc 
 which furrounded my harbour, ihey gave way ; but 
 being purfued by fcveral ver)' large ones, I kept 
 ftriclly on the watch, and paddled with all my might 
 towards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to be 
 ihelleretl there from the multitude of my aflailants ; 
 but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attack- 
 ed on all fules, feveral endeavouring to oveifet the 
 canoe. My fituation now became precarious to the 
 iaft degree : two verv large ones attacked me clofe- 
 jy, at the fame inilant, rufliing up with their heads 
 and part of their bodies above the water, roaring 
 rerrihly and belching floods of water over me. They 
 (truck their jaws together fo clofe to my ears, as 
 almolt to dun me, a.nd I expected every nioraent to 
 be dragged out of the boat and inflantlv devoured, 
 ^ut I applied my \yeapons fo efi'eclually about me, 
 though at random, that I was fo fuccefsful as to beat 
 them off a liule ; when, finding that they defigned 
 to renew the battle, I made for the fiiore, as the 
 only means hit me for my prefer'. ation ; for, by 
 keeping clofe to it, 1 fhould have ray enemies on 
 one fide of me onlv, whereas I was before furround- 
 «edby them-, and there was' a probabiliry, if pulhed 
 
 ^9 
 
11§ 
 
 TRAV£1.? IN 
 
 to the hifl: extremity, of faring myfelf, by jumpin^jj 
 out of tlie canoe on ihorc, as it is eafy to outwalk 
 ihem on land, although comparatively as fwift as 
 lightning in the water. 1 found this laft expedient 
 alone could fully anfwer my expectations, for as 
 foon as I gained the fhore, they drew off and kept 
 aloof. ^This was a happy relief, as my conlidence 
 ■was, in fome degree, recovered by it. On recol- 
 ledling myfelf, I difcovered that I had almoft reach- 
 ed the entrance of the lagoon, and determined to 
 venture in, if poflible, to take a few filh, and then 
 return to my harbour, while day-light continued ; 
 for I could now, with caution and refolution, make 
 my way with fafety along Ihore ; and indeed there 
 was no other way to regain my camp, without leav- 
 ing my boat and making my retreat through the 
 marfhes and reeds, which, if I could even effect, 
 would have been in a manner throwing myfelf 
 away, for then there would have been no hopes of 
 ever recovering my bark, and returning in fafety 
 >yCto any fettlements of men. I accordingly proceed- 
 ed, and made good my entrance into the lagoon, 
 though not without oppofition from the alligators, 
 who tormed a line acrofs the entrance, but did not 
 purfuc me into it, nor w^as I molefted by any there 
 though there were fome very large ones in a cove 
 at the upper end. I foon caught more trout than 
 I had preft:nt occafion for, and the air was too hot 
 and fukry to admit of their being kept for many 
 hours, even though falted or barbecued. I now 
 prepared for my return to camp, vvhich I fucceeded 
 in with but little trouble, by keeping clofe to 
 the (liore ; yet I was oppofed upon re-entering the 
 liver out of the lagoon, and purfued near to my 
 landing (though not clofely attacked), particularly 
 by an old during one, about twelve feet in length, 
 
 who 
 
NORTH AMERICA. IJ9 
 
 who kept clofe after me ; and •when I ftepped on. 
 fhore and turned about, in order to draw up my 
 canoe, he ruihed up near my feet, and lay there for 
 feme time, looking me in the face, his head and 
 flioulders out of water. I refolved he jfliould pay 
 for his temerity, and hanng a heavy load in my hi- 
 fee, 1 ran to my camp, and returning with my piece, 
 found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat, 
 in fearch of fifli On my coming up he withdrew 
 fullenly and flowly into the water, but foon returned 
 and placed himfclf in his former pofititm, looking 
 at me, and feeming neither fearful nor any way 
 difturbed. I foon difparched him by lodging the 
 contents of my gun in his head, and then proceeded 
 to cleanfe and prepare my fiOi for fupper ; and 
 accordingly took them out of the boat, laid them 
 down on the fand clofe to the water, and began to 
 fcale them ; when, railing my head, I faw before 
 me, through the clear water, the head nnd flioul- 
 ders of a very large alligator, moving flowly towards 
 me. I inrtantly Ttepped back, when, with a fweep 
 of his tail, he brulhed off feveral of my fifh. It 
 was certainly moa providential that I looked up at 
 that inftant, as the monfter would probably, in lefs 
 than a miraite, have feized and dragged me into the 
 river. This incredible boldnefs of the animal dif- 
 turbed me greatly, fuppofmg there could now be no 
 reafoaable fafety for me during the night, but by 
 keeping continually on the watch : I therefore, as 
 foon as I had prepared the fifh, proceeded to fe- 
 cuie myk if and eifccls in the bed manner I could. 
 ]n. the firit pl:»ce, 1 hauled my bark upon the 
 fliore, aunoft clear out of the water, to prevent 
 their oxerfetring or finking her; after this, every 
 moveable Vvas taken out ?j\d carried to my camp, 
 V.hich was but a few yards otl'; theii ranging fome 
 
 dry 
 
120 TRAVF.I S IK 
 
 dry wood in fuch order as was the mofl: convenient, 
 I cleared the ground round about it, that there might 
 be no impediment in my way, in cafe of an attack 
 in the night, either from the water or the land ; for 
 I difcovered by this time, that this fmall ifthmus, 
 from its remote fituation and fruitfulnefs, was re- 
 forted to my bears and wolves. Having prepared 
 myfelf in the bell manner I could, 1 charged my 
 gun and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the 
 adjacent grounds ; when 1 difcovered that the pe- 
 ninlula and grove, at the diftance of about two hun- 
 dred yards from my encampment, on the land fide, 
 were inverted by a cyprefs Iwamp, covered with 
 water, which below was joined to the ihore of the 
 little lake, and above to the marflies furrounding the 
 lagoon ; fo that I was confined to an iflet exceed- 
 ingly circumfcribed, and T found there was no other 
 retreat for me, in cafe of an attack, but by either 
 afcending one of the large oaks, or pufliing off with 
 my boat. 
 
 It was by this time dufk, and the alligators had 
 nearly ceafed their roar, when 1 was again alarmed 
 by a tumultuous noife that feemed to be in my har- 
 bour, and therefore engaged my immediate atten- 
 tion. Returning to my camp, I found it undif- 
 turbed, and then continued on to the extreme point 
 of the promontory, where 1 faw a fcenc, new and 
 furprifmg, which at firft threw my fcnfes into fuch 
 a tumult, that it was fome time before I could com- 
 prehend uhiit was the matter ; however, I foon ac- 
 counted for the prodigious alTemblage of crocodiles 
 at this place, which exceeded every thing of the kind 
 I had ever heard of. 
 
 How fliall I exprefs myfelf {o as to convey an 
 adequate idea of it to tiie reader, and at the lame 
 
 time. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 121 
 
 time avoid raifmg fufplcions of my veracity. Should 
 I fay, that the river (in this place) from fliore to 
 fhore, and perliaps near half a mile above and be- 
 low me, appeared to be one folid bank of fifli, of 
 various kinds, pufhing through this narrow pafs of 
 St. Juan's into the little lake, on their return down, 
 the river, and that the alligators were in fuch in- 
 credible numbers, and fo clofe together from fhore 
 to fhore, that it would have been eafy to have 
 walked acrofs on their heads, had the animals been 
 harmlefs ? What expreflions can fulficiently declare 
 the fhocking fccne that for fome minutes conti- 
 nued, whilfl this mighty army of fifh were forcing 
 the pafs ? During this attempt, thoufands, I may 
 fay hundreds of thoufands of them were caught 
 and fwallowed by the devouring alligators. I have 
 feen an alligator take up out of the water feveial 
 great fifh at a time, and juft fqueeze them betwixt 
 his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped 
 about his eyes and lips, ere he had fwallowed them. 
 The horrid noife of their clofmg jaws, their plung- 
 ing amidll the broken banks of fifli, nnd rifnig 
 with their prey fome feet upright above the water, 
 the floods of water and blood rufliing out of their 
 mouths, and the clouds of vapour iHuing from their 
 wide noifrils, were truly frightful. This fcene con- 
 tinued at intervals during the night, as the fifh 
 came to the pafs. After this fight, fliocking and 
 tremendous as it was, 1 found myfelf fomewhat ea- 
 fier and more reconciled to my fituation ; being 
 convinced that their extraordinary alfemblage here 
 was owing to this annual fead of fiih ; and that 
 they were fo well employed in their own element, 
 that I had little occafion to fear [heir paying me a 
 vifit. 
 
 It 
 
1-22 TRAVELS IN 
 
 It being now almoft; night, I returned to my 
 camp, where I had left my fifh broiUng, and my 
 kettle of rice ftewing ; and having with me oil, 
 pepper, and fait, and excellent oranges hanging in 
 abundance over my head (a valuable fubftitute for 
 vinegar) I fat down and legaled my felf cheerfully. 
 Having finifhed my repaft, I rekindled my fire for 
 light, and whild 1 was revifmg the notes of my pad 
 day's journey, I was fuddenly roufed with a noife 
 behind me tov/ard the main land. I fprang up on 
 my feet, and liftening, I diftinctly heard fome crea- 
 ture wading in the water of the iUhmus. I feized 
 my gun, and went cautloully from my camp, dired:- 
 ing my fteps towards the noife : when I had ad- 
 vanced about thirty yards, I halted behind a cop- 
 pice of orange trees, and foon perceived two very 
 large bears, vvhich had made their way through the 
 water, and had landed in the grove, about one hun- 
 dred yards diftance from me, and were advancing 
 towards me. I waited until they were within thirty 
 Yards of me : they there began to fnufF and look to- 
 wards my camp : I fnapped my piece, but it fiaflied, 
 on which they both turned about and gallopped off, 
 plunging through the water and fwamp, never halt- 
 ing, as I fuppofe, until they reached faft land, as I 
 could hear them leaping and plunging a long time. 
 They did not prefume to return again, nor was I 
 molefted by any other creamre, except being occa- 
 fionally awakened by the whooping of owls, fcream- 
 ing of bitterns, or the wood-rats running aniongfl: 
 the leave^;. 
 
 y \ . ... 
 
 I The wood-rat is a very curious animal. It is 
 not half the fize of the domellic rat; of a dark brown 
 or black colour ; its tail llendcr and faorter in 
 proportion, and covered thinly with (hort hair. 
 
 It 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I23 
 
 It is fingular with refpetl to its ingenuity and great 
 labour in the conRruflion of its habitation, which 
 is a conical pyramid, about three or four feet high, 
 conflrufted with dry branches, which it collects 
 with great labour and perfeverance, and piles up 
 without any apparent order ; yet they are io inter- 
 woven with one another, that it would take a bear 
 or wild cat fome time to pull one of thefe caftles to 
 pieces, and allow the animals fuiiicient time to fe- 
 cure a retreat with their young. 
 
 The noife of the crocodiles kept me awake the 
 greater part of the night ; but when I arofe in the 
 morning, contrary to my expe«Stations, there was 
 perfect peace ; very few of them to be feen, and 
 thofe were afleep on the fhore. Yet I was not able 
 to fupprefs my fears and apprehenfions of being at- 
 tacked by them in future ; and indeed ye(lerday*s 
 combat with them, notwithftanding I came off in a 
 manner victorious, or at lead made a fafe retreat, 
 had left fufficient impreflion on my mind to damp 
 my courage ; and it feemed too much for one of 
 my ftrength, being alone in a very fmall boat, to 
 encounter fuch colleded danger. To purfue my 
 voyage up the river, and be obliged every even- 
 ing to pais fuch dangerous defd«s, appeared to ms 
 as perilous as running the gauntlet betv\ixt two rows 
 of Indians armed with knives and firebrands. I 
 however refolved to continue my voyage one day 
 longer, if I poilibly could with fafcty, and then re- 
 turn down the river, fliould I find the like difficul- 
 ties to oppofe. Accordingly I got every thing on 
 board, charged my gun, and let fail cautioufly, 
 along fhore. As I paiied by Battle lagoon, I began 
 fo tremble and keep a good look out ; when Sud- 
 denly a huge alligator rulhcd out of the reeds, and 
 
 with 
 
124 TRAVELS IN 
 
 with a tremendous roar came up, and darted as 
 fwift as an arrow under my boat, emerging upright 
 on my lee quarter, with open jaws, and belching 
 water and fmoke that fell upon me like rain in a 
 hurricane. I laid foundly about his head with my 
 club and beat him off; and after plunging and dart- 
 ing about my boat, he went off on a ftraight line 
 through the water, feemingly with the rapidity of 
 lightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon. I 
 now employed my time to the very bell advantage 
 in paddling clofe along fhore, but could not forbear 
 looking now and then behind me, and prefently 
 perceived one of them coming up again. The wa- 
 ter of the river hereabouts was fhoal and very clear : 
 the monfler came up with the ufual roar and me- 
 naces, and paffed clofe by the fide of my boat, 
 when I could diftin£lly fee a young brood of alliga- 
 tors, to the number of one hundred or more, fol- 
 lowing after her in a long train. They kept clofe 
 together in a column without draggling off to the 
 one fide or the other ; the young appeared to be of 
 an equal fize, about fifteen inches in length, almoft 
 black, with pale yellow tranfverfe waved clouds or 
 blotches, much like rattlefnakes in colour. 1 now 
 loft fight of my enemy again. 
 
 Still keeping clofe along fiiore, on turning a 
 point or projection of the river bank, at once I ne- 
 held a great number of hillocks or fmall pyramids, 
 refembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampment 
 along the banks. They flood fifteen or twenty yards 
 diftant from the water, on a high marfli, about four 
 feet perpendicular above the water. I knew them 
 to be the nefts of the crocodile, having had a de- 
 fcription of them before; and now expecied a fu- 
 rious and general attack, as I law feveral latge cro- 
 codiles 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 12$ 
 
 codiles fwlmming abreaft of thefe buildings. Thefe 
 nefts being fo great a curiofity to me, I was deter- 
 mined at all events immediately to land and exa- 
 mine them. Accordingly, 1 ran my bark on fhore 
 at one of their landing-places, which was a fort of 
 nick or little dock, from which afcended a floping 
 path or road up to the edge of the meadow, where 
 their nefts were ; mod of them were deferted, and 
 the great thick whitifli egg-fhells lay broken and 
 fcattered upon the ground round about them. 
 
 The nefts or hillocks are of the form of an obtufe 
 cone, four feet high and four or five feet in dia- 
 meter at their bafes ; they are conft rutted with mud, 
 grafs, and herbage. At firft they lay a floor of this 
 kind of tempered mortar on the ground, upon which 
 they depofit a layer of eggs, and upon this a llra- 
 tum of mortar, feven or eight inches in thicknefs, 
 and then another layer of eggs, and in this manner 
 one ftratum upon another, nearly to the top. I be- 
 lieve they commonly lay from one to two hundred 
 eggs in a neft : thefe are hatched, I fuppofe, by the 
 heat of the fun ; and perhaps the vegetable fub- 
 ftances mixed with the earth, being a6led upon by 
 the fun, may caufe a fmall degree of fermentation, 
 and fo increafe the heat in thofe hillocks. The 
 ground for feveral acres about thefe nefts fliewed evi- 
 dent marks of a continual refort of rjligators ; the 
 grafs was every where beaten down, hardly a blade 
 or ftraw was left ftanding ; whereas, all about, at a 
 diftance, it was five or fix feet high, and as thick 
 as it could grow together. The female, as I ima- 
 gine, carefully watches her own neft of eggs until 
 they are all hatched ; or perhaps while ftie is attend- 
 ing her own brood, fiie takes under her care and 
 protection as many as file can get at one time, ei- 
 ther 
 
10,6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ther from her own particular nefl or others : bat 
 certain it is, that the young are not left to ihift for 
 themlelves ; for I have had frequent opportunities of 
 feeing the female alligator leading about the fliores 
 her train of young ones, juft as a hen does her 
 brood of chickens ; and flie is equally afliduous and 
 courageous in defending the young, which are un- 
 der her care, and providing for their fubfiltence ; 
 and when Ihe is balking upon the warm banks, with 
 her brood around her, you may hear the young ones 
 continually whining and barking, like young pup- 
 pies. I believe but few of a brood live to the years 
 of full growth and magnitude, as the old feed on 
 the young as long as they can make prey of them. 
 
 The alligator when full grown is a very large 
 and terrible creature, and of prodigious flrength, 
 activity, and fwiftnefs in the water. I have feen 
 them twenty feet in length, and fome are fuppofed 
 to be twenty-two oj twenty-three feet. Their body 
 is as large as that of a horfe ; their fhape exaftly 
 refembles that of a lizard, except their tail, which 
 is flat or cuneiform, being comprefled on each fide, 
 and gradually diminifliing from the abdomen to 
 the extremity, which, with the whole body is co- 
 vered with horny plates or fquamm^e, impenetra- 
 ble v.'hen on the body of the live animal, even to 
 a rifie-ball, except about their head and jufl be- 
 hind their fore-legs or arms, where it is faid they 
 arc only vulnerable. The head of a full-grown one 
 is about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly the 
 fame length ; their eyes are fmall in proportion and 
 feem funk deep in the head, by means of the pro- 
 minency of the brows ; the noftrils are large, in- 
 flated and prominent on the top, fo that the head 
 in the water refembles, at a diftance, a great 
 
 chunk, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 12/ 
 
 chunk of wood floating about. Only the upper jaw 
 moves, which they raife ahuofl: perpendicular, fo 
 as to form a right angle with the lower one. In 
 the fore-part of the upper jaw, on each fide, juffc 
 under the noflrils, are two very large, thick, flron^ 
 teeth or tufks, not very fliarp, but rather the Ihape 
 of a cone : thefe are as white as the finefl polifhed 
 ivory, and are not covered by any Ikin or lips and 
 always in fight, which gives the creature a frightful 
 appearance : in the lower jaw are holes oppofite tn 
 thefe teeth, to receive them : when thc;y clap their 
 jaws together it caufes a furprifing noile, like that 
 which is made by forcing a heavy plank with vio- 
 lence upon the ground, and may be heard at a great 
 diltance. 
 
 But what is yet more furprifing to a flrangcr, is 
 the incredible loud and terrifying roar, which they 
 are capable of making, efpecialiy in the Ipring fea- 
 fon, their breeding time, it moil i-efembles very 
 heavy diftant thunder, not only Ihaking the air and 
 waters, but caufmg the earth to tremble ; and when 
 hundreds and thoufands are roaring at the fame 
 time, you can fcarcely be perfuaded, but that the 
 whole globe is violently and dangerouily agitated. 
 
 An old champion, who is perhaps abfolute fovc- 
 reign of a little lake or lagoon fwhen fifty lefs than 
 himfelf are obliged to content themfelves with fwel- 
 ling and roaring in little coves round about) dans 
 forth from the reedy coverts all at once, on the 
 furface of the waters, in a right line ; at firll feem- 
 ingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more flowly 
 until he arrives at the center of the lake, when he 
 flops. He now fwells himfelf by drawing in wind 
 and water through his mouth, which caufes a louj 
 
 fonorous 
 
128 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute, 
 but it is immediately forced out again through his 
 mouth and noflrils, with a loud noile, brandifhing 
 his tail in the air, and the vapour afcending from 
 his noftrils like fmoke. At other times, when fwollen 
 to an extent ready to burft, his head and tail lifted 
 up, he fpins or twirls round on the fur face of the 
 water. He adls his part like an Indian chief when 
 rehearfmg his feats of war ; and then retiring, the 
 exhibition is continued by others who dare to flep 
 forth, and flrive to excel each oiher, to gain the 
 attention of the favourite female. 
 
 Having gratified my curiofity at this general breed- 
 ing-place and nurfery of crocodiles, I continued 
 my voyage up the river without being greatly dif- 
 turbed by them. In my way I obferved iflets or 
 floating fields of the bright green Piftia, decorated 
 with other amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea, 
 Perficaria amphibia, Coreupfis bidens, Hydrocotylc 
 fluitans, and many others of lefs note. 
 
 The fvvamps on the banks and iflands of the river 
 are generally three or four feet above the furface of 
 the v^^ater, and very level ; the timber large and 
 growing thinly, more fo than what is obferved to be 
 in the fvvamps below lake George ; the black rich 
 earth is covered Xvith moderately tall, and very fuc- 
 culent tender grafs, which when chewed is fweet and 
 agreeable to the tafte, fomewhat like young fugar- 
 cane : it is a jointed decumbent grafs, fending out 
 radiculss at the joints into the earth, and fo fpreads 
 itfelf, by creeping over its furface. 
 
 The large timber trees, which poffefs the low lands, 
 are Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus 
 iylvatica, Fraxinus excelfior, Frax. aquatica, Ulmus 
 
 fuberifer^ 
 
I 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. IJig 
 
 fuberifer, Gledltfia monofperma, Gledit. trlacan- 
 thus, Diofpyros Virginica, NylFa aquatica, Nyfl'a 
 fylvatica, juglans cinerea, Quercus cfentata, Qiier- 
 cus phillos, Hopea tinctoria, Corypha palma, Mo- 
 rus rubra, and many more. The palm jryows on 
 the edges of the banks, where they are raifed higher 
 than the adjacent level ground, by the accuniulatioa 
 of fand, river-fliells, iic. 1 paffed along fsveral miles 
 by thofe rich fwamps : the channels of the river 
 which encircle the feveial fertile iflands I had 
 palled, now uniting, formed one deep chmnel near 
 three hundred yards over. The banks of the liver 
 on each fide began to rife, and prefent flielly bluffs, 
 adorned by beautiful Orange groves. Laurels and 
 Live Oaks. And now appeared in Tight, a tree 
 that claimed my whole attention : it was the Carica 
 papaya, both male and female, which were in 
 flower ; and the latter both in flower and fruit, 
 fome of which were ripe, as large, and of the form 
 of a pear, and of a mod charming appearance. 
 
 This admirable tree is certainly the mofl beau- 
 tiful of any vegetable production I know of; the 
 towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, in- 
 deed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but 
 not in elegance, delicacy, and gracefulnefs. It rifes 
 ered to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, with a 
 perfedly flraight tapering Item, which is fmooth and 
 polifhed, of a bright a(h colour, refembling leaf 
 filver, curioufly infcribed with the footdeps of the 
 fallen leaves ; and thefe vefliges are placed in a very 
 regular unilorm imbricated order, which has a fine 
 t-ffeft, as if the little column were elegantly carved 
 all over. Its perfectly fpherical top is formed of 
 very large lobe-finuatc leaves, fupported on very 
 long footftalks ; the lower leaves are the largeit 
 as well as their petioles the longed, and make 
 
 a a. graceful 
 
130 TRAVELS .IN 
 
 a graceful fweep or flourifli, like the long f or the 
 branches of a fconce candleftick. The ripe and 
 green fruit are placed round about the ftem or 
 trunk, Irom the lowernioll leaves, where the ripe 
 fruit are, and upwards almoft to the top ; the heart 
 or inmoll piihy part of the trunk is in a manner hol- 
 low, or at bell confifls of very thin porous medullrr 
 or membranes. The tree very feldom branches or 
 divide^; into limbs, I believe never unlefs the top is 
 by accident broke oiY when very young : I faw one 
 Avhich had two tops or heads, the Item of which di- 
 vided near the earth. It is always green, orna- 
 mented at the fame time with flowers and fruit, 
 which like figs come out fmgly from the trunk or 
 item. 
 
 After refling and refrefiiing niyfclf in thefe de- 
 llphtful fliades, 1 left them with reluctance. Em- 
 barking again after the fervid heats of the meridian 
 fun was abated, for fome time 1 paifed by broken 
 lidc^es of iheliy high land, covered with groves 
 of Live Oak, Palm, Olea Americana, and Orange 
 trees ; fr ccjuently obferving Moating iflets and green 
 fields of the Tiiiia near the fliores of the river and 
 lagoons. 
 
 Here is in this river and in the waters all over 
 Florida, a very curious and handfome fpecies of 
 birds ; the people call them Snake Birds ; I think I 
 have fcen paintings of them on the Chinefe fcreens 
 and other India piiftures : they fcem to be a fpecies 
 of cormorant or loon (Colymbus cauda elongata), 
 but far more beautiful and delicately formed 
 than any other fpecies that I have ever feen. The 
 head and neck of this bird are extremely fmall and 
 flender, the latter very long indeed, almofl out of 
 all proportion ; the bill long, flraight, and flender, 
 
 tapering 
 
NORTH AMERICA. . I3I 
 
 Capering from its ball to a fharp point ; all the upper 
 fide, the abdomen and thighs, are as black and 
 gloffy as a raven's, covered with feathers fo firm and 
 elaftic, that they in feme degree refemble fifh-lcales ; 
 the bread: and upper part of the belly are covered 
 with feathers of a cream colour ; the tail is very 
 long, of a deep black, and tipped with a filvery 
 white, and when fpreac^, reprefents an unfurled fan. 
 They delight to fit in little peaceable communities, 
 on the dry limbs of trees, hanging over the flill 
 waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I fup- 
 pofe to cool and air themfclves, when at the fame time 
 they behold their images in the watery mirrour. At 
 fuch times, when m e approach them, they drop off 
 the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute 
 or two are not to be feen ; when on a fudden, at a 
 vaft diftance, their long (lender head and neck 
 only appear, and have very much the appearance 
 of a fnake, and no other part of them is to be feen 
 when fwimming in the water, except fometimes 
 the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the day they 
 are feen in great numbers, failing very high in the 
 air, over lakes and rivers. 
 
 I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabi- 
 tant of the Tiber in Ovid's days, it would have 
 furniflied him with a fubjecl for fome beautiful and 
 entertaining metamorphofes. I believe it feeds en- 
 tirely on filh, for its tleih fmell.* and tafles intolera- 
 bly flrong of it ; it is fcarcely to be eaten unlefs 
 conftrained by infufferable hunger. 
 
 I had now fwamps and marfhes on both fides of 
 me ; and evening coming on apace, I began to look 
 out for high land to encamp on ; but the extenfive 
 niarlhes feemed to have no bounds, and it was ai- 
 rnoll dark when I found a lolerably fui table place, 
 
 K 2 and 
 
J32 TRAVELS h< 
 
 and at lafl: was condrained to take up with a narrow 
 Itrip of high fhelly bank, on the weft fide. Great 
 numbers of crocodiles were in fight on both fhores. 
 I ran my bark on fhore at a perpendicular bank four 
 or five fetit above the water, juft by the roots and 
 lindcr the fpreading limbs of a great Live Oak : this 
 appeared to have been an ancient camping place by 
 Indians and ftrolling adventurers, from a(h heaps 
 and old rotten fire brands and chunks, fcattered 
 about on the furface of the ground ; but was now 
 evidently the harbour and landing place of fome 
 fovereign alligator : there led up from it a deep 
 beaten path or road, which was a convenient afcent. 
 
 I did not approve of my iniended habitation from 
 thefe circumltances ; and no fooner had I landed 
 and moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than 
 1 faw a huge crocodile rifing up from the bottom 
 tlofe by me, who, when 1 perceived that 1 faw 
 him, plung.^d down again under my veflel. This 
 determined me to be on my guard, and in time to 
 provide againll a troublefome night. 1 took out of 
 my boat every moveable, which I carried upon the 
 bank ; then chol'e my lodging clofe to my canoe, 
 under the fpreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the 
 ground was open and clear of high grafs and buflres, 
 and confcquently I had fome room to ftir and look 
 round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood, 
 which 1 found diiiic-lt to procure. Here were ftand- 
 ing a few Orange trees. As for provifions, I had 
 liived one or two barbecued trout, the remains of 
 my laft evening's colleclion, in tolerable good order, 
 though the fultry heats of the day had injured them ; 
 yet by Itewing them up afreCh w ith the lively juice 
 ot Oranges, they ferved well enough for my fup- 
 pcr, as I had by this time but litttle relilh or appe- 
 tite 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I33 
 
 titc for my viftuals ; for conflant watching at night 
 againft the attacks of alligators, flinging of muf- 
 quitoes and fultry heats of the day ; together with 
 the fatigues of working my bark, had almolt de- 
 prived me of every defire but that of ending my 
 troubles as fpeedily as poffiblc. I had the good for- 
 tune to colle<^ together a fufficiency of dry (licks 
 to keep up a Hglit and fmoke, which I latd by me, 
 and then fpread my fkins and blankets upon the 
 ground, kindled up a little fire, and fupped before 
 it was quite dark. The evening was however ex- 
 tremely pleafant ; a briik cool breeze fprang up, and 
 the (kies were pcrfedly ferene, the flars twink- 
 ling with uncommon brilliancy, i (Iretched myfelf 
 along before my fire ; having the river, my little 
 harbour, and the ftcru of my vell'el in view ; and now 
 through fatigue and wearinefs I fell afleep. But 
 this happy temporary releafe from cares and trou- 
 bles I enjoyed but a few moments, when I was 
 ^awakened and greatly furprifed, by the terrifying 
 fcreams of Owls in the deep fwamps around me ; 
 and what increafe my extreme mifery v/as the dif- 
 ficulty of getting quite awake, and yet hearing at 
 the fame time fuch fcreaming and fliouting, which 
 increafed and fpread every way lor miles around, in 
 dreadful peals vibrating through the dark extenfive 
 forcils,^ meadows, and lakes. I could not after this 
 furprife recover my former peaceable flatc and tran- 
 quillity of mind and repofc, during the long night ; 
 and I believe it was happy for me that I was awaken- 
 ed, for at that moment the crocodile was dafiiing 
 my canoe againft the roots of the tree, endeavouring 
 to get into her for the fifh, which J iiowever pre- 
 vented. Another time in the ni^ht I believe I nar- 
 rowly efcaped being dragged into th< river by him ; 
 jiQT when a^^ain through exec wive fatigue 1 had fallen 
 
 alleepj 
 
134- TRAVELS IN 
 
 afleep, but was again awakened by the fcrcaminpj 
 owl, I found the monRer on the top of the bank, 
 his head towards me not above two yards diflant ; 
 when ftarting up and feizing my fufee well loaded, 
 which I always kept under my head in the night 
 time, he drew back and plunged into the water. 
 After this, I roufed up my fire, and kept a light 
 during the remaining part of the night, being deter- 
 mined not to be caught napping fo again : indeed the 
 mufquitoes alone would liave been abundantly fuffi- 
 cient to keep any creature awake that pofiefl'ed their 
 perfe£t fenfes; but I was overcome and Itupified with 
 inceffant watching and labour. As foon as I dif- 
 covered the firft figns of day-light, I arofe, got all 
 my efFe6ls and implements on board, and fet fail, 
 proceeding upwards, hoping to give the mufqui- 
 toes the flip, who were now, by the cool morning 
 dews and breezes, driven to their flielter and hiding 
 places. I was miflaken however in thefe conjec- 
 tures, for great numbers of them, which had con- 
 cealed themfelves in my boat, as foon as the fun 
 arofe, began to revive, and fting me on my legs, 
 which obliged me to land in order to get bufhes to 
 beat them out of their quarters. 
 
 It is very pleafmg to obferve the banks of the 
 river ornamented with hanging garlands, com- 
 pofed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both 
 fhrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green 
 walls, with projecting jambs, pilaflers, and deep 
 apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and com- 
 pletely covered with Glycine frutefcens, Glyc. apios, 
 Vitis labrufca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quin- 
 quifolia, Hedera arborea, Eupatorium fcandens, 
 Bignonia crucigera, and various fpecies of Convol- 
 vulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this 
 
 genus. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 13^ 
 
 ^eiius, or perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very 
 large white flower, as big as a fmall funnel ; its tube 
 is five or fix inches in length, and not thicker than 
 a pipe item ; the leaves are alfo very large, oblong, 
 and cordated, fometimes dentated or angled, near 
 the infcrtion of" the foot-ftalk ; they are of a thin, 
 texture, and of a deep green colour. It is exceed- 
 ingly curious to behold the Wild Squafli "^ climbing 
 jover the lofty limbs of the trees ; its yellow fruit, 
 fomewhat of the fize and figure of a large orange, 
 pendant from the extremities of the limbs over the 
 water. 
 
 Towards noon, the fultry heats being intolerable, 
 1 put into (liore, at a middling high bank, five or 
 fix feet above the furface of the river. This low fandy 
 t-eftaceous ridge along the river fide was but narrow ; 
 the furface light, black, and exceedingly fertile, pro- 
 ducing very large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, and 
 grand Magnolias, fcatteringly planted by nature. 
 There being no underwood to prevent the play of 
 the breezes from the river, it aiforded a defirable re- 
 treat from the fun's heat. Immediately at the back of 
 this narrow ridge, were deep wetfwamps, where Hood 
 fome aftonifliingly tall and fpreading Cyprefs trees. 
 And now being weary and drowfy, I was induced 
 to indulge and liflen to the dictates of rcafon and 
 invitations to repofej which confenting to, after 
 fecuring my boat and reconnoitering the ground, 
 I fpread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat, 
 on which 1 extended myfelf, where, falling to fieep, I 
 inftantaneouily palfed away the fultry hours of noon. 
 What a bllfsful tranquil repofei Undilfurbed I awoke, 
 refrefl«ed and ilrengthened ; I cheerfully Hepped on 
 board again, and continued to afcend ihe river. The 
 
 aftcrnooij 
 
156 TRAVEL? \V 
 
 afternocn be'ng cool r.nd pleafanf, and the trcr? 
 very lofty on the higher weftern banks of the river, 
 by keeping near that (hore I pafled under agreea- 
 ble fliades the remaining part of the day. During 
 almofl: all this day's voyage, the banks of the liver 
 on both fliores were middling high, perpendicular, 
 and waflied by the brilk current : the ihores were 
 not lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics, 
 and confequently net very commodious rcforts or 
 harbours for crocodiles ; I therefore v, as not dil- 
 turbed by them, and faw but few, but thofe were 
 very large. I however did not like to lodge on 
 thofe narrow ridges, inverted by fuch dreary fwamps; 
 and evening approaching, I began to be anxious 
 for high land for a camping place. It was quite 
 dark before I came up to a blulf, which I had in 
 view a long lime, over a very extenfive point of 
 meadows. I landed however at lafl, in the bed 
 manner I could, at a magnificent forefl of Orange 
 groves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with little labour 
 or difficulty, foon colledfed a fufficient quantity of 
 dry wood: there was a pleafant vifta of grafs be- 
 twixt the grove and the edge of the river bank, 
 which afforded a very convenient, open, airy en- 
 camping place, under the protection of fome fpread- 
 ing Oaks. 
 
 This was a high perpendicular blufi', fronting 
 more than one hundred yards on the river, the earth 
 black, loofe, and fertile : it is a compofition ofriver- 
 fhells, fand, &c. At the back of it from the river, were 
 open Pine forefls and favannas. I met with a cir- 
 cumflance here, that v^dth fome, may be reckoned 
 worthy of mentioning, fince it regards the monu- 
 ments of the ancients. As I have already obfcrvcd, 
 when I landed it was quite dark j and in collecting 
 
 wood 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 1 37 
 
 Vood for my fire, flrolling in the dark about the 
 groves, I found the furface of the ground very un- 
 even, by means of little mounts and lidges. In 
 the morning 1 found I had taken up my lodging on 
 the border of an ancient burying ground, containing 
 fepulchres or tumuli of the Yamafees, who were here 
 llain by the Creeks in the lafl; decifive battle, the 
 Creeks having driven them into this point, between 
 the doubling of the liver, where few of them efcaped 
 the fury of the conquerors. Thefe graves occupied 
 the whole grove, confiding of iwo or three acres of 
 ground : there were near thirty of thefe cemeteries of 
 the dead, nearly of an equal fize and form, being 
 bblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet in 
 width, and three or four feet high, now overgrown 
 with orange trees, live oaks, laurel magnolias, red 
 bays and other trees and fnrubs, compofing dark and 
 folenm ihades. 
 
 I here, for the firH: time fince I left the trading 
 houfe, enjoyed a night of peaceful repofe. I arofe, 
 greatly refrcflied and in good fpirits, (lepped on 
 board my bark, and continued my voyage. After 
 doubling the point, I pafTed by fwamps and meadows 
 on each fide of me. The river here is fomcthing 
 more contracted within perpendicular banks ; the 
 land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing 
 prodigioufly large timber and luxuriant herbage. 
 
 The air coniinucd fuitrv, and fcarccly enough 
 wind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eaflern 
 coail of the river now opens, and prefenis to view 
 ample plains, confifling of grafiy marflies and green 
 meadows, and afibrds a profped almoft unlimit- 
 ed and extremely plenf.ng. The oppofite fhore 
 exhibits a fublime contralt ; a high bluff" bearing 
 magnificent forclls of grand magnolia, glorious 
 
 palms. 
 
138 TRAVELS IM 
 
 palms, fruitful orange groves, live oaks, bays and 
 other trees. This grand elevation continues four or 
 five hundred yards, defcribing a gentle curve- on the 
 river, ornamented by a fublime grove of palms, con- 
 fiding of many hundreds of trees together ; thev 
 entirely fhade the ground under them. Above and 
 below the bluff, the grounds gradually defcend to 
 the common level fwamps on the river: at the back 
 of this eminence open to view expanfive green 
 meadows or favannas, in which are to be feen glit- 
 tering ponds of water, furrounded at a great dif- 
 tance by high open pine forefts and hommocks, 
 and iflets of oaks and bays projecting into the 
 favannas. After ranging about thefe folitary groves 
 and peaceful {hades, I re-embarked and continued 
 fome miles up the river, between elevated banks 
 of the fwamps or low lands ; when on the Ea(t 
 ihore, in a capacious cove or winding of the river, 
 were pleafing floating fields of piftia j and in the 
 bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek 
 or branch of the river, which I knew to be the en- 
 trance to a beaufiful lake, on the banks of which 
 was the farm I was going to vifit, and which I de-. 
 figned fliould be the iaft extent of my voyage up the 
 river. 
 
 About noon the weather became extremely fultry, 
 not a breath of wind flirring, hazy or cloudy, with 
 very heavy diflant thunder, which was anfwered by 
 the crocodiles, fure prefage of a ftorm. 
 
 Soon after afcending this branch of the river, on 
 the right hand prefents itfelf to view a delightful 
 Ijrtle bluff, confifting chiefly of fliells, and covered 
 with a dark grove of red cedar, Zanthoxylon and 
 myrtle. I could not refifl: the temptation to fl:op 
 h^TQ, although the tremendous thunder all around 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 139 
 
 the, hemifphere alarmed me greatly, having a large 
 lake to crofs. From this grove appears to view an 
 expanfive and pleafmg profped. The beauteous 
 long lake in front, about North EafI" from me, its 
 moft diftant Eafl fhores adorned with dark, high 
 forefts of ftately trees ; North and South almoft end- 
 lefs green plains and meadows, embelliflied with 
 iflets and projeding promontories of iiigh, dark fo- 
 refts, where the pyramidal magnolia grandiflora, 
 palma elata, and fliady oak, conlpicuoufly tower. 
 
 Being heretofore fo clofely inverted by high fo- 
 refls and deep fwamps ot the great river, I was pre- 
 vented from feeing (he progrefs and increafe of the 
 approaching tempeft, rhe terrific appearance of 
 which now at once confounded me. How purple 
 and fiery appeared the tumultuous clouds, fwiftly 
 afcending or darting from the horizon upwards ! 
 they feemed to oppofe and dafli againft each other ; 
 the ikies appeared ftrcaked with blood or purple 
 flame overhead, the flaming lightning flreaming 
 and darting about in every diredion around, feemed 
 to fill the world with fire ; whilfl: the heavy thunder 
 kept the earth in a conllant tremor. I had yet 
 fome hopes of crolTmg the lake to the plantation in 
 fight. On the oppofite fliore of the creek before 
 me, and on the cape as we enter the lake, flood a 
 large iflet or grove of oaks and jtalms. Here I in- 
 tended to feek flicker and abide till the fury of the 
 hurricane was'overpaft, if I found it too violent to 
 permit me to crofs the lake. In confequence of this 
 precipitate determination, I ilcpped into my boat 
 and puflied off. What a dreadful rufhing and roaring 
 there was every where around me ! and to my ut- 
 ter confufion and aftonifliment, I could not find from 
 what particular quarter its flrongefl current or direc- 
 
 riou 
 
14* TRAVEtS IN 
 
 tlon c^me, whereby I might have a proper chance 
 of taking meafures for fecuring a harbour or running 
 from it. The high forefls behind me bent to the 
 blaft ; and the (hirdy hmbs of the trees cracked. I 
 had by this time got up abreait of the grove or hom- 
 mock : the hurricane clofeby, purfuing me, I found 
 it dangerous and imprudent in the higheft degree to 
 put in here, as the groves were already torn up, and 
 the fpreading limbs of the ancient live oaks were 
 flying over my head, and carried about in the air as 
 leaves and fiubble. I ran by and boldly entered the 
 lake (being hurried In by a flrong current, which 
 i'eemed a prodigy, the violent v.'ind driving the flreani 
 of the creek back again into the lake), and as foou 
 as pofiible took fhelter under the high reedy bank of 
 the lake, and made faft my bark to the boughs of a 
 low fhrubby Hickory, that leaned over the water. 
 Such was the violenc^^ of the wind, that it ralfed the 
 waters on the oppofite fiiores of the lake feverai feet 
 perpendicular, and there was a rapid flow of water 
 from thg creek into it, which was contrary to its 
 natural courfe. Such floods of rain fell during the 
 fpace of half or three quarters of an hour, that my 
 boat was filled, and I expected every moment when 
 I lliould fee her fink to the bottom of the lake ; and 
 the violence of the wind kept the cable fo conftantly 
 extended^ that it was beyond my ability to get to 
 her. My box which contained my books of fpeci- 
 mens and other collecUons, was floating about in 
 her ; and for a great part of the time the rain came 
 dovi'n with fuch rapidity and fell in fuch quantities, 
 that every object was totally obfcured, excepting the 
 continual ftreams or rivers of lightning, pouring 
 from the clouds. All feemed a frightful chaos. 
 When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed to 
 fee the face of nature again appear. 
 
 It 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 141 
 
 It took me an.hour or more to clear the water out 
 of my bark. I then crofl'ed the lake before a briik 
 and favourable breeze (it was about a mile over), 
 and landed fafely at the plantation. 
 
 When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to fee 
 me, and immediately inquired ot me in what manner 
 I came there ; fuppohng it impoffible (until I had 
 fhowed him my boat ) that I could have arrived by 
 water, through fo tremendous a hurricane. 
 
 Indeed I faw plainly that they were greatly terri- 
 fied, having fuffcred almoll irreparable damages 
 from the violence of the ilorm. All the buildincrs 
 on the plantation, except his own dwelling-houle, 
 were laid almoll flat to the ground, or the logs and 
 roof rent afunder and tvvl fled about ; the manfion- 
 houfe fliook and reeled over their heads. He had 
 nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almolt 
 ripe for the fird cutting, vihich were nearly ruined ; 
 and feveral acres of very promifmg fugar-cane, to- 
 tally fpoiled for the feafon. The great live oaks 
 which had been left fianding about the fields, were 
 torn to pieces, their limbs lying fcattered over the 
 ground : and one very large one which flood near 
 his houfe torn down, which could not have been 
 done by the united flrength of a thoufand men. But 
 what is incredible, in the midil of this devaflation 
 and ruin, providentially no lives were lofl ; although 
 there were about fixty Negro flaves on the plantr- 
 tion, and mofl: of them in their huts when the florm 
 came on, yet they efcaped with their lives, though 
 feveral wcie badly wounded. 
 
 I continued here three days : indeed it took mofi: 
 of the time of my abode with him, to dry my books 
 and fpecimens of plant-. But with attention and 
 
 care 
 
142 TRAVELS IN 
 
 care I faved the greateft number of them ; though 
 fome were naturally fo dehcate and fragile, that it 
 was impoffible to recover them. Here is a vafl: body 
 of land belonging to this eftate ; of high ridges fit 
 for the culture of corn, indigo, cotton, batatas, &c. 
 and of low fwamps and marfhes, which when pro- 
 perly drained and tilled, would be fuitable for rice. 
 Thefe rich low grounds, when drained and ridged, 
 are as produdive as the natural high land, and vaflly 
 more durable, efpecially ior fugar-cane, corn, and 
 even indigo ; but this branch of agriculture being 
 more expenfive, thele rich lands are neglefted, and 
 the upland only is under culture. The farm is fitu- 
 ated on the Eail fhore of the beautiful Long Lake, 
 which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad. 
 This lake communicates with the St. Juan, by the 
 little river that I afcended, which is about one mile 
 and an half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide. 
 The river, as well as the lake, abounds with fifli and 
 wild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers, 
 efpecially during the winter feafon, when the geefc 
 and ducks arrive here from the north. 
 
 New Smyrna*, a pretty thriving town, is a colo- 
 ny of Creeks and Minorquines, ellablifhed by Mr. 
 Turnbull, on the Mufquito river, and very near its 
 
 * New Smyrna is built on a high (helly bluff, on the Weft bank of the 
 South branch of Mufquito river, about ten miles above the capes of that ri- 
 ver, wliich is about thirty miles North of C^pe Canaveral, Lat. 28. I was 
 there about ten years ago, wlien the furveyor run the lines or precincfts of 
 the colony, where there was neither habitation nor cleared field. It was 
 then a famous orange jjrove, the upper or South promontory of a lidge, 
 nearly half a mile wide, and Itretching North about forty miles, to the 
 head of the North branch of the Mufquito, to where the Tomoko river 
 unites with it, nearly parallel to the fea coaft, and not above two miles 
 acrofs to the fea beach. All this ridge was then one entire orange grove , 
 with live oaks, magnolias, palms, and red bays, and others : I obferved 
 then, near where New Smyrna now ftands, a fpacious Indian mount and 
 avenue, which ftood near the bunks of the river : the avenue ran on a ftrait 
 line back, through the groves, acrofs the ridge, and terrtiinatcd at the verge 
 of natuirti frtVijiBa* and yonds. 
 
 mouth 5 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I 43 
 
 mouth J it Is about thirty miles over land from this 
 farm. 
 
 My friend rode with me, about four miles diftancc 
 from the houfe, to fhew meavaft fountain of warm, 
 or rather hot mineral water, which iilued from a 
 high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove or 
 bay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek 
 which I afcended to the lake; it boils up with great 
 force, forming immediately a vaft circular bafon, ca- 
 pacious enough for feveral fliallops to ride in, and 
 runs with rapidity into the river three or four hun- 
 dred yards diltance. This creek, which is formed 
 inftantly by this admirable fountain, is wide and 
 deep enough for a Hoop to fail up into the bafon. 
 The water is perfectly diaphanous, and here are 
 continually a prodigious number and variety of tifh ; 
 they appear as plain as though lying on a table be- 
 fore your eyes, although many feet deep in the wa- 
 ter. This tepid water has a moft difagreeable talle, 
 brafly and vitriolic, and very otienfive to the fmell, 
 much like bilge water or the wafiiings of a gun-bar- 
 rel, and is fmelt at a great diftance. A pale bluifh 
 or pearl coloured coagulum covers every inanimate 
 fubftance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs of 
 trees, kc. Alligators and gar were numerous in the 
 bafon, even at the apertures where the ebullition 
 emerges through the rocks ; as alfo many other tribes 
 of fi(h. In the winter fealbn feveral kinds of fifli 
 and aquatic animals migrate to thefe warm foun- 
 tains. The forbidding tafte and fmell of thefe w-aters 
 I'eems to be owing to vitriolic and fulphureous fumes 
 or vapours ; and thefe being condcnfed, form this 
 coagulum, which reprefents flakes of pearly clouds 
 in the clear cerulean waters in the bafon. A charm- 
 ing orange grove, w ith magnolias, oaks, and palms, 
 
 half 
 
J 44 TRAVELS IN 
 
 half furrounded this vaft foundin. A delightful 
 ftream of cool falubrious water iffues from the ridge, 
 meandering along, and entering the creek jiifl: below 
 the bafon. I returned in the evening, and next day 
 fet off again down the river. 
 
 My hofpitable friend, after fupplying me with ne- 
 ceffaries, prevailed on me to accept of the company 
 and afiiftance of his purveyor, one day's voyage 
 down the river, whom I was to fet on fliore at a 
 certain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, but 
 noc above one third that dillance by land ; he was 
 to be out in the forefls one day, on a hunt for tur- 
 keys. 
 
 The current of the river being here confined 
 within its perpendicular banks, ran brifkly down : 
 we cheerfully defcended the grand river St. Juan, 
 enjoying enchanting profpeds. 
 
 Before night we reached the deflined port, at a 
 fpacious orange grove. Next morning we feparated, 
 and 1 proceeded down the river. The profpeds on 
 either hand are now pleafing, and I view them at 
 leifure, and without toil or dread. 
 
 Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green 
 meadows, which open to the Eaiiward, I determined 
 not to pais this Elylium without a vifit. Behold the 
 Joud, fonorous, watchful favanna cranes (gius pra- 
 tenfis) with mufical clangor, in detached fqiiadrons. 
 They fpread their light elallic fail: at lirft they 
 move from the earth heavy and flow ; they labour 
 and beat the denfe air ; they form the line with wide 
 extended wings, tip to tip ; they all rife and fall to- 
 gether as onebiid ; now they mount aloft, gradually 
 wheeling about j each fquadron performs its evolu- 
 tions 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I45 
 
 tlon, encircling the expanfive plains, obferving each 
 one its own orbit ; then lowering fail, defcend 
 on the verge of fome glittering lake ; whilft: other 
 fquadrons, afcending aloft in fpiral circles, bound 
 on interelting difcoveries, wheel round and double 
 the promontory, in the filver regions of the clouded 
 Ikies, where, far from the fcope of eye, they care- 
 fully obferve the verdant meadows on the borders of 
 the Eafl Lake ; then contraft their plumes and de- 
 fcend to the earth, where, after refting a while on fome 
 verdant eminence, near the flowery border of the 
 lake, they, with dignified, yet flow, refpedful fteps, 
 appproach the kindred band, confer, and treat for 
 habitation ; the bounds and precinils being fettled, 
 they confederate and take polleflion. 
 
 There is inhabiting the low fliores and fvvamps 
 of this river and the lakes of Florida, as w-ell as 
 Georgia, a very curious bird*, called by an Indian 
 name (Epoufkyca) which fignifies in our language 
 the crying bird. I cannot determine what genus 
 of European birds to join it with. It is about the 
 fize of a large domeltic hen : all the body, above 
 and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather 
 edged or tipped w'ith white, which makes the bird 
 appear fpeckled on a near view ; the eye is large 
 and placed high on the head, which is very promi- 
 nent ; the bill or beak is five or fix inches in length, 
 arched or bent gradually downw^ards, in that refpe£t 
 to be compared to one half of a bent bow ; it is large 
 or thick near the bafe, comprefled on each fide, and 
 flatted at top and beneath, which makes it appear 
 four fquare for more than an inch, where the noftrils 
 are placed, from whence, to their tips, both man- 
 dibles are round, gradually lelTening or tapering to 
 
 * Taatalus piftus^ 
 
 L their 
 
146 TRAVELS 11^ 
 
 their extremities, which are thicker for about half 
 an inch than immediately above, by which the man- 
 dibles never fit quite clofe their whole length • the 
 upper mandible is a fmall matter longer than the 
 under ; the bill is of a dufky green colour, more 
 bright and yellowifh about the bafe and angles of 
 the mouth; the tail is very fhort, and the middle 
 feather the longcfl ; the others on each fide fliorten 
 gradually, and are of the colour of the reft of the 
 bird, only fomewhat darker ; the two fhorteft or 
 outermofl: feathers are perfectly white, which the 
 bird has a faculty of flirting out on either fide, as 
 quick as a flafli of lightning, efpecially when he 
 hears or fees any thing that diflurbs him, uttering 
 at the fame inflant an extreme harfli and loud 
 fhriek : his neck is long and flender ; and his legs 
 are alio long and bare of feathers above the knee, 
 like thofe of the bittern, and arc black or of a dark 
 lead colour. 
 
 There are two other fpecies of this genus, which 
 agree in almoll every particular with the above de- 
 fcrlpion, except in fize and colour. The firft * of 
 thele I Ihall mention is a perfect white, except the 
 prime quill feathers, which are as black as thofe of 
 a crow ; the bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, as 
 alfo a fpace clear of feathers about the eyes. The 
 other fpecies -f is black on the upper fide, the bread 
 and belly white, and tlie legs and beak as white as 
 fiTtovr. Both thefe fpecies are about' half the fize of 
 the crying bird. They fly in large flocks or fqua- 
 drons, evening and morning, to and from their feed- 
 ing place or roolfs ; both ipecies are called Spanifii 
 cuilewi: thefe and the crying bird feed chiefly on 
 
 * T.-.r.talus al'bui. Numinusalbus. Cat. 
 
 + Tantalus vcrricolor. Numinus fufcus, Cat. 
 
 Cray 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 147 
 
 Cray fifh, whofe cells they probe, and with their 
 flrong pinching bills drag them out : all the three 
 fpecies are efteemed excellent food. 
 
 It is a pleafing fight at times of high winds and 
 heavy thunder Itorms, to obferve the numerous fqua- 
 drons of thefe Spanifli curlews driving to and fro, 
 turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when 
 by their various evolutions in the ditierent and op- 
 pofite currents of the wind high in the clouds, their 
 fdvery white plumage gleams and fparkles like the 
 brighteft cryflal, rellecling the fun-beams that dart 
 upon them between the dark clouds. 
 
 Since I have turned my obfervations upon the 
 birds of this country, 1 fliall notice another very 
 lingular one, though already mod curioufly and 
 exadly figured by Catefby, which feems to be 
 nearly allied to thofe before mentioned ; I mean 
 the bird which he calls the wood pelican*. This 
 is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when 
 (landing erect. The bill is very long and ftrong, 
 bending with a moderate curve from the bafe to 
 the tip ; the upper mandible is the largeft, and re- 
 ceives the edges of the nether one into its whole 
 length ; the edges are very Iharp and firm ; the 
 whole of a dark afli or horn colour ; the forehead 
 round the bafe of the beak and fides of the head is 
 bare of feathers, and of a dark greenifli colour, 
 in which fpace is placed the eyes, which are very 
 large ; the remainder of the head and neck is of a 
 nut brown colour j the back of a light bluifli grey ; 
 upper part of the wings, bread, and belly, almoft 
 white, with fome flight daflies of grey ; the quill- 
 feathers and tail, which are very fhort, are of a dark 
 Hate colour, almoft black ; the legs, which are very 
 
 * T;intalus lociJator. Lir.n. 
 
 L 2 long, 
 
J4^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 long, and bare of feathers a great length above 
 the knees are of a dark dull greenifh colour : it 
 has a fmall bag or pouch under its throat : it feeds 
 on ferpents, young alligators, frogs, and other rep- 
 tiles. 
 
 This folitary bird does not aflbciate in flocks, but 
 is generally feen alone ; commonly near the banks 
 of great rivers, in vaft marflies or meadows, efpe- 
 cially fuch as are caufed by inundations ; and alfo 
 in the vad deferted rice plantations : he flands 
 alone on the topmoft limb of tali dead cyprefs trees, 
 his neck contrafted or drawn in upon his ftioulders, 
 and beak refting like a long fey the upon his breafl: : 
 in this penfive pollure and foHtary fituation, it 
 looks extremely grave, forrowful, and melancholy, as 
 if in the deeped thought. They are never feen on 
 the fait fea coaft, and yet are never found at a great 
 diftance from it. I take this bird to be of a different 
 genus from the tantalus, and perhaps it approaches 
 the neared to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird yet 
 known. 
 
 There are two fpecies of vultures * in thefe re- 
 gions, I think not mentioned in hidory : the fird we 
 fliall delcribe is a beautiful bird, near the fize of 
 a turkey buzzard f , but his wings are much (horter, 
 and confequently he falls" greatly below that admi- 
 rable bird in fail. J diall call this bird the painted 
 vulture. The bill is long and draight almoft to 
 the point, when it is hooked or bent fuddenly down 
 and fnarp ; the head and neck bare of feathers 
 r.early down to the domach, when the feathers be- 
 gin to cover the ikin, and foon become long and 
 of a foft texture, forming a ruft' or tippet, in which 
 ihe bird by contrai:^ing his neck can hide that as 
 
 » Vultur fa era- + Vultiir aurei. 
 
 well 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I49 
 
 well as his head ; the bare fkin on the neck appears 
 loofe and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellow 
 colour ; intermixed with coral red ; the hinder part 
 of the neck is nearly covered with fliort, (till hair ; 
 and the ikin of this part of the neck is of a dun-pur- 
 ple colour, gradually beconiing red as it approaches 
 the yellow of the fides and fore part. The crown of 
 the head is red ; there are lobbed lappets of a red- 
 difli orange colour, which lie on the bafe ot the 
 upper mandible. But what is fmguhir, a large por- 
 tion of the Itomach hangs down on the hreali of the 
 bird, in the likenefs of a fack or half wallet, and 
 feems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is na- 
 ked and of a reddifli flelh colour ; this is partly con- 
 cealed by the feathers of the brcall, unlefs when it 
 is loaded with food (which is commonly, I believe, 
 roafted reptiles), and then it appears prominent. 
 The plumage of the bird is generally v^'hite or cream 
 colour, except the quill feathers of the wings and 
 two or three rows of the coverts, which are of a beau- 
 tiful dark brown ; the tail, which is large and white, 
 is tipped with this dark brown or black ; the legs 
 and feet of a clear white ; the eye is encircled with 
 a gold coloured iris ; the pupil black. 
 
 The Creeks or Mufcogulges conftrucl their royal 
 ilandard of the tail feather of this bird, which is call- 
 ed by a name fignifying the eagle's tail : this they 
 carry with them when they go to battle, but then it 
 is painted with a zone of red within the brown tips ; 
 and in peaceable negociations it is difplayed new, 
 clean, and white : this ftandard is held moll facred 
 by them on all occafions, and is conftrutled and or- 
 namented with great ingenuity. Thefe birds feldom 
 appear but when the defcrts are fct on fire (which 
 happens almoft every day throughout the year, in 
 
 fome 
 
150 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fome part or other, by the Indians, for the purpofe 
 of roufing the game, as alfo by the lightning : ) when 
 they are leen at a diftance fearing on the wing, ga- 
 thering from every quarter, and gradually ap- 
 proaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon 
 the ground yet fmoking with hot embers : they ga- 
 ther up the roafled ferpents, frogs, and lizards, 
 filling their facks with them ; at this time a perfon 
 may fhoot them at pleafure, they not being willing 
 to quit the feaft, and indeed feeming to brave all 
 danger. 
 
 The other fpecies may very properly be called 
 the coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants called 
 the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is near- 
 ly equal to either of the others before mentioned. 
 His wings are not long and fliarp pointed, but broad 
 and round at their extremities, having a clumfy ap- 
 pearance ; the tail is remarkably fhort, which he 
 fpreads like a little fan, when on the wing. They 
 have a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings, 
 then fail a little and then flap their wings again, 
 and fo on as if recovering themfelves when falling. 
 The beak is very long and flrnight, until it makes 
 a fudden hook at the point, in the manner of the 
 other vultures. The whole bird is of a fable or 
 mourning colour ; the head and neck down to the 
 breafl is bare of feathers, and the fkin wrinkled ; 
 this unfeathered fkin is of a deep livid purple, ap- 
 pearing black and thinly fet with fhort black hair. 
 He has a ruff or tippet of long foft feathers, like a 
 collar, bearing on his breafl, in which he can con- 
 ceal his neck and head at pleafure. 
 
 Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable 
 heats of fultry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, with 
 renewed vigour I again refume my fylvan pilgrimage. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 151 
 
 The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and 
 exceeding pieafant views from the river and its va- 
 ried fhores. I palled by Battle lagoon and the bluff, 
 •Avithout much oppofition ; but the crocodiles were 
 already affembling in the pafs. Before night I 
 x:ame to, at a charming orange grove bluff, on the 
 Eail fide of the little lake ; and after fixing my camp 
 on a high open fituation, and colleding a plenty of 
 dry wood for fuel, I had time to get fome fine trout 
 for fuppcr, and joyfully return to my camp. 
 
 What a mofl beautiful creature is this fifli before 
 me ! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the Hill 
 clear waters, with his orient attendants and alfo- 
 ciates : the yeliow bream * or fun fifh. It is about 
 eight inches in length, nearly of flie fliape of the 
 trout, but rather larger in proportion over the 
 Ihoulders and breall : the mouth large, and the 
 branchiollega opens wide ; the whole fifli is of a 
 pale gold (or burnilhed brafs) colour, darker on the 
 back and upper fides ; the fcales are of a propor- 
 tionable fize, regularly placed, and every where 
 variably powdered with red, rulfet, filver, blue, and 
 green fpecks, fo laid on the fcales as to appear like 
 real dull or opaque bodies, each apparent particle 
 being fo projetled by light and fliadc, and the va- 
 rious attitudes of the filh, as to deceive the fight; 
 for in reality nothing can be of a more plain and 
 poliflied furface than the fcales and whole body of 
 the fifli. The fins are of an orange colour : and, 
 like all the fjx'cies of the bream, the ultimate angle 
 of the branchioftcga terminates by a little fpatula^ 
 the extreme end of which reprefents a crefcent of 
 ihe finell: ultramarine blue, encircled with filver and 
 
 * Cyprinus coronurius. 
 
 velvet 
 
152 TRAVELS IN 
 
 velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a pea- 
 cock's train. He is a fifh of prodigious (Irength 
 and aflivity in the water ; a warrior in a gilded coat 
 of mail ; and gives no reft or quarter to fmall fifh, 
 •which he preys upon. They are delicious food and 
 in great abundance. 
 
 The orange grove is but narrow, betv/ixt the 
 river banks and ancient Indian fields, where there 
 are evident traces of the habitations of the ancients, 
 furrounded with groves of live oak, laurel magno- 
 lia, zanthoxylon, liquidambar, and others. 
 
 How harmonious and foothing is this native fyl- 
 van mufic now at ftill evening ! inexprellibly tender 
 are the refponfive cooings of the innocent dove, in 
 the fragrant zanthoxylon groves, and the variable 
 and tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the 
 more fprightly and elevated ftrains of the blue lin- 
 net and golden iderus : this is indeed harmony, 
 even amidft the incelfant croaking of the frogs : the 
 fliades of filent night are made more cheerful, with 
 the fhrill voice of the whip-poor-will * and active 
 mock-bird. 
 
 My fituation high and airy: a brifk and cool breeze 
 fteadily and inceflantly pafling over the clear waters 
 of the lake, and fluttering over me through the fur- 
 rounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light 
 favannas, while I repofe on my fweet and healthy 
 couch of the foft* tillandfia ufnea-adfcites, and the 
 latter gloomy and ftill hours of night pafs rapidly 
 away as it were in a moment. I arofe, ftrength- 
 
 * Caprimulgus rufus, called chuck-wiU's-vridow, from a fancied re- 
 femblance of his notes to thefe words : it inhabits the maritime parts of 
 Carolina and Florida, and is more than twice the iize of the night hawk or 
 whip-poor-will. 
 
 ened 
 
L 
 
n3 
 
 ^r/a (rr^j/i'/f<7,^ 
 
 Caulis . t^itt 1 a^'natiJ' 
 Foliis. Linfarihtncf^olaii-r 
 
 ^I'tlf Tptirnff'ort 
 
NORTH AMERICA. J53 
 
 ened and cheerful, in the mornmg. Having fome 
 repairs to make in the tackle of my veflel, I paid my 
 tirll attention to them ; which being accompliflied, 
 my curiofity prompted me to penetrate the grove 
 and view the illumined plains. 
 
 What a beautiful difplay of vegetation is here 
 before me ! feemingly unlimited in extent and va- 
 riety : how the dew-drops twinkle and play upoa 
 the fight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green 
 favanna, fparkling as the gem that flames on the 
 turban of the ealtern prince. See the pearly tear* 
 rolling off the buds of the expanding Granadilla * ; 
 behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixea ! what can 
 equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea, 
 which ornament the banks of yon ferpenriuc rivulet, 
 meandering over the meadows ; the almolt endlefs 
 \'^rieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the fwelling 
 green banks, alTociated with the purple Verbena co- 
 rymbofa, Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and filvery Per- 
 dicium ? How fantaftical looks the libertine Clito- 
 ria, mantling the flirubs, on the villas Ikirting the 
 groves ! My morning excurfion finifhed, I returned 
 to my camp, brcakfaftcd, then went on board 
 my boat, gently defcended the noble river, and 
 palTed by feveral openings of extenfive plains and 
 meadows, environing the eaft lake, charming be- 
 yond compare. At evening I came to at a good 
 harbour, under the high banks of the river, and 
 refled during the night amidlf the fragrant groves, 
 expofed to the court ant breezes from the river : 
 here 1 made ample colledions of fpecimens and grow- 
 ing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me fully 
 employed the greatefl: part of the day ; and in the 
 evening arrived at a charming fpot on the eaft 
 
 * raffiflora incarnaca, called May-Apple. 
 
 bank. 
 
54 
 
 TRAVELS INT 
 
 bank, which I had marked on my afcent up the ri- 
 ver, where 1 made fome addition to my collec- 
 tions ; and the next day I employed myfelf in the 
 fame manner, putting into fhore frequently, at con- 
 venient places, which I had noticed ; and in the 
 evening arrived again at the upper ftore, where I 
 had the pleafure of finding my old friend, the trader, 
 in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in a 
 profperous way. There were alfo a fmall party of 
 Indians here, who had lately arrived with their 
 hunts to purchafe goods. I continued a few days at 
 this poft, fearching its environs for curious vegeta- 
 ble produdions, coUeding feeds and planting grow- 
 ing roots in boxes, to be tranfpofted to the lower 
 trading houfe. 
 
 Now, having procured neceflaries to accommo- 
 date me on my voyage down to the lower flore, I 
 bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job 
 "VViggens, embarked alone on board my little for- 
 tunate velTel, and fet fail. I chofe to follow the 
 eaflernmofl: channel of the river to the Great Lake, 
 becaufe it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eaftern 
 main the greateft part of the diftance, which af- 
 forded me an opportunity of obferving a far greater 
 variety of natural fubjects, than if I had taken the 
 weftern or middle channel, which flowed through 
 fwamps ^nd marlhes. 
 
 At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former 
 fafe and pleafant harbour, at the eaft cape of the 
 Great Lake, where I had noticed fome' curious 
 flirubs and plants ; here I relied, and on the fmooih 
 and gentle current launch again into the Httle ocean 
 of Lake George, meaning now, on my return, to 
 coaft his weftern fliores in fearch of niew beauties in 
 tfee bounteous kingdom of Flora. 
 
 J was 
 
XORTH AMERICA: I55 
 
 T was however induced to deviate a little from 
 my intended courfe, and touch at the inchantin^ 
 little Ifle of Palms. This delightful fpot, planted by 
 nature, is almofl an entire grove of Palms, with a 
 few pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange, 
 and the animating Zanthoxylon. What a beautiful 
 retreat is here ! bleffed inviolatcd fpot of earth, 
 rifmg from the limpid waters of the lake : its fra- 
 grant groves and blooming lawns Inverted and pro- 
 tecled by encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriofa. 
 A fafcinating atmofphere furrounds this blifsful gar- 
 den ; the balmy Lantana, ambrofial Citra, perfumed 
 Crinum, perfpiring their mingled odours, wafted 
 through Zanthoxylon groves. I at laft: broke away 
 from the enchanting fpot, and itepped onboard my 
 boat, hoiifed fail, and foon approached the coafl: of 
 the main, at the cool eve of day : then traverfmg a 
 capacious femicircular cove of the lake, verged by 
 low, cxtenfive g^ally meadows, I at length by duflv 
 made a fafe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the fea- 
 fliore or ftrand of a bold fandy point, which de- 
 fcended from the furf of the lake. This was a 
 clean fandy beach, hard and firm by the beatingr 
 furf, when the wind fcts from the eaft coafl:. I 
 drew up my light veflel on the Hoping fhorc, that 
 Ihe might be fafe from the beating waves in cafe of 
 a fudJen dorm of wind In the night. A few yards 
 back ihe land was a little elevated, and over- 
 grown with thickets of (hrubs and low tlees, con- 
 filting chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana, 
 Ranmus frangula, Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Ha- 
 lefia, Querci, Myrica cerifera, and others. Tliefe 
 groves were but low, yet fufhcientlv high to fliel- 
 ter me from the chilling dews ; and being but a 
 few yards diftance from my veflel, here I fixed my 
 encampment. A brilk wind arinng from the lake, 
 
 drove 
 
156 TRAVELS IN 
 
 drove away the clouds of mufqultoes into the thick- 
 ets. I now, with difficulty and induftry, colleiled 
 a fufficiency of dry wood to keep up a light during 
 the night, and to roafl fome trout which I had caught 
 when descending the river : their heads I flewed in 
 the juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, af- 
 forded me a wholefome and delicious fupper : I hung 
 the remainder of my broiled fifh on the fnags of 
 fome flirubs over my head. I at laft, after recon- 
 noitring my habitation, returned, fpread abroad my 
 fkins and blanket upon the clean fands by my fire 
 fide, and betook myfelf to repofe. 
 
 How glorious the powerful fun, minifter of the 
 Mod High in the rule and government of this earth, 
 leaves our hemifphere, retiring from our fight 
 beyond the weftern forefts ! I behold with gra- 
 titude his departing: fmiles, tinging the fleecy rofe- 
 ate clouds, now riding far away on the eaftern ho- 
 rizon ; behold they vanifli from fight in the azure 
 ikies I 
 
 All now filent and peaceable, I fuddenly fell 
 afleep. At midnight I awake ; when, raifing my 
 head ereft, I find myfelf alone in the wildernefs of 
 Florida, on the fliores of Lake George. Alone in- 
 deed, but under the care of the Almighty, and pro- 
 tected by the invifible hand of my guardian angel. 
 
 When quite awake, I ftarted at the heavy tread 
 of fome animal ; the dry limbs of trees upon the 
 ground crack under his feet ; the clofe fhrubby thick- 
 ets part and bend under him as he rufhes off. 
 
 I rekindle my fleepy fire ; lay in contact the ' 
 exfoliated fmoaking brands damp with the dew of 
 heaven. 
 
 The 
 
 I 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I57 
 
 The bright flame afcends and ilUimlnates the 
 ground and groves around me. 
 
 When looking up, I found my fifli carried off, 
 though I had thought them fafe on the Ihrubs, jult 
 over my head ; but their fcent, carried to a great 
 diftance by the damp nocturnal breezes, I fuppofe 
 urere too powerful attraftions to refift. 
 
 Perhaps it may not be time loft, to reft a while 
 here, and refled on the unexpeded and unaccount- 
 able incident, uhich however pointed out to me an 
 extraordinary deliverance or proteclion of my life, 
 from the rapacious wolf that ftole my fifli from over 
 my head. 
 
 How much eafier and more eligible might it have 
 been for him to have leaped upon my breaft in the 
 dead of fleep, and torn my throat, which would 
 have inftantly deprived me of Hfe, and then glutted 
 his ftomach for the prefent with my warm blood, 
 and dragged off my body, which would have made 
 a feaft afterwards for him and his howling: affociates ! 
 I fay, would not this have been a wifer ftep, than 
 to have made protracted and circular approaches, 
 and then after, by chance, efpying the fifh over 
 my head, with the greateft caution and fdence rear 
 up, and take them off the fnags one by one, then 
 make off with them, and that fo cunningrly as not 
 to awaken m-e until he had fairly accomplilhed his 
 purp>ofe ? 
 
 The morning being clear, I fat fail with a fa- 
 vourite breeze, coafting along the fhores ; when 
 on a fudden the waters became tranfparent, and 
 difcovered the fandy bottom, and the feveral na- 
 tions of fifh, pairing and repalling each other. Fol- 
 lowing 
 
130 TRAVELS IN 
 
 lowing this courfe I was led to the cape of the little 
 river, defcending from Six Mile Springs, and mean- 
 dering fix miles from its fource through green mea- 
 dows. I entered this pellucid dream, failing over 
 the heads of innumerable fquadrons of fifli, which, al- 
 though many feet deep in the water, were diftinftly 
 to be feen. I pafled by charming iflets of fiourifli- 
 ing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Afh, Maple, Nyfla, and 
 others. As I approached the diftant high foreft on 
 the main, the river widened, floating fields of the 
 green Piftia furrounded me, the rapid ftream wind- 
 ing throucrh them. What an allurine^ fcene was now 
 before me ! A vafl bafon or Httle lake of cryltal 
 waters, half encircled by fwelling hills, clad with 
 orange and odoriferous lUieiuni groves, the tower- 
 ing Magnoha, itfelf a grove, and the exalted Palm, 
 as if confcious of their tranfcendant glories, toffed 
 about their lofty heads, painting, with mutable 
 ihades, the green floating fields beneath. The fo- 
 cial prattling coot enrobed in blue, and the fqueel- 
 ing water-hen, with wings half-expanded, tripped 
 after each other over the watery mirrour. 
 
 1 put in at an ancient landing-place, which is a 
 Hoping afcent to a level graflly plain, an old In- 
 dian field. As I intended to n)ake my moft confi- 
 derable colleftions at tliis place, I proceeded im- 
 mediately to fix my encampment but a few yards 
 from my fafe harbour, where I fecurely faftened 
 mv boat to a Live Oak which overfliadowed my 
 port. 
 
 After collecling a good quantity of fire-wood, 
 as it was about tlie middle of the afternoon, I re- 
 iolved to reconnoitre the ground about my encamp- 
 xnent. Having penetrated the groves next to me, 
 1 came to the open forefls, confifling of exceed- 
 ingly 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 159 
 
 ingly tall flraight Pines (Pinus Paluftris) that iftood 
 at a confiderable diftance from each other, through 
 which appeared at N. W. an almoft unlimited plain 
 of graliy favannas, embellilhed with a chain of ihal- 
 low ponds, as far as the fight could reach. Here 
 is a fpecies of Magnoha that aflbciatcs with the 
 Gordonia lafianthus ; it is a tali tree, fixty or eighty- 
 feet in heighth ; the trunk ftraight ; its head termi- 
 nating in the form of a fharp cone ; the leaves are 
 oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green, and glau- 
 cous beneath ; the flowers are large, pretty white 
 and extremely fragrant ; with refpcfl to its flowers 
 and leaves it differs very little from the Magnolia 
 glauca. The filvery whitenefs of the leaves of this 
 tree had a ftriking and pleafing effedt on the fight, 
 as it flood amidft the dark green of the Ouercus 
 dentata, Nyffa fylvatica, Nyf. aquatica, Gordonia 
 lafianthus, and many others of the fame hue. 
 The tall afpiring Gordonia lafianthus, which now 
 Hood in my view in all its fplendour, is every way 
 deferving of our admiration. Its thick foliage, of 
 a dark green colour, is flowered over with large 
 milk-white fragrant bioffoms, on long flender elaf- 
 tic penuncles, at the extremities of its numerous 
 branches, from the bofom of the leaves, and renewed 
 every morning ; and that in fuch incredible pro- 
 fufion, that the tree appears filvered over with them, 
 and the ground beneath covered with the fallen, 
 flowers. It at the fame time continually puflies 
 forth new twigs, with young buds on them ; and 
 in the winter and fpring, the third year's leaves, now 
 partly concealed by tlie new and perfect ones, are 
 gradually changing colour, from green to golden 
 yellow, from that to a fcarlet, from fcarlct to crim- 
 f©n ; and laflly to a brownifh purple, and :hen fall 
 
 to 
 
l6o TRAVELS IN 
 
 to the ground. So that the Gordonia lafianthui 
 may be faid to change and renew its garments 
 every morning throughout the year ; and every day 
 appears with unfading luftre. And moreover, after 
 the general flowering is part, there is a thin fuc- 
 ccllion of fcattering bloflbms to be feen, on fome 
 parts of the tree, almon: every day throughout the 
 remaining months, until the floral feafon returns 
 again. Its natural fituation, when growing, is on 
 the edges of fliallow ponds, or low wet grounds on 
 rivers, in a fandy foil, the neareft to the water of 
 any other tree, fo that in droughty feafons its long 
 ferpenline roots which runs near or upon the furface 
 of the earth, may reach into the water. When 
 the tree has arrived to the period of perfed magni- 
 tude, it is fixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high, 
 forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old trees 
 when fawn into plank is defervedly admired in ca- 
 binet-work orfurniture ; it has a cinnamon coloured 
 ground, marbled and veined with many colours : 
 the inner bark is ufed for dying a reddifh or forrel 
 colour J it imparts this colour to wool, cotton, 
 linen, and drefled deer-fldns, and is highly efteemed 
 by tanners. 
 
 The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna, coralloden- 
 drum, and the Cadus opunfia, grow here in great 
 abundance and perfeftion. The firll grows in the 
 open pine forefts, in tufts or clumps, a large co- 
 nical ftrobile diiclofing its large coral red fruit, 
 which appears fingularly beautiful amidfl the deep 
 green fern-like pinnated leaves. 
 
 The Erythryna carollodendrum is fix or eight 
 feet high ; its prickly limbs ftride and wreath about 
 with fingular freedom, and its fpikes of crimfon 
 flowers have a fine effe(^ amidfl the delicate foliage. 
 
 the 
 
I 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. l6l 
 
 The Caftus opuntia is very tall, ered, and large' 
 and ftrong enough to bear the weight of a man : 
 fome are feven or eight feet high : the whole plant 
 or tree feems to be formed of great oval comprcfled 
 leaves or articulations ; thofe near the earth conti- 
 nually increafe, magnify and indurate as the tree 
 advances in years, and at length lofe the bright 
 green colour and glofly fur face of their youth, ac- 
 quiring a ligneous quality, with a whitifh fcabrous 
 cortex. Every part of the plant is nearly deftitute 
 of aculea, or thofe fafcicles of barbed brillles which 
 are in fuch plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig. 
 The cochineal infeds are feeding on the leaves. 
 The female of this infetfl is very large and flefhy, co- 
 vered with a fine white filk or cottony web, which 
 feels always moill or dewy, and feems defigned by 
 nature to protect them from the violent heat of the 
 fun. The males are very^fmall in comparifon to the 
 females, and but very few in number : they each 
 have two oblong pellucid wings. The large poly- 
 petalous flowers are produced on the edges of the 
 laft year's leaves, are of a fine fplendid yellow, and 
 are fucceeded by very large pear-fhaped fruit, of a 
 dark livid purple when ripe : its pulp is charged 
 with a juice of a fine tranfparent crimfon colour, 
 and has a cool pleafant talte, fomewhat like that of a 
 pomegranate. Soon after eating this fruit, the uiine 
 becomes of the fame crimfon colour, which very 
 much furprifes and afi'rights a ftranger, but is attend- 
 ed with no other ill confequence ; on the contrary, it 
 is efteemed wholefome, though powerfully diuretic. 
 
 On the left hand of thofe open forefts and favan- 
 nas, as wc turn our eyes louihward, fouth-wefh 
 and wefl, we behold an endlefs wild defert, the 
 upper Itratum of the earth of which is a fine white 
 fand, with fmall pebbles, and at fome diftance ap- 
 
 M pears 
 
idl TRAVELS 13* 
 
 pears entirely covered with low trees and fhrubs of 
 ▼arious kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf 
 Sweet Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea AmericanayMo- 
 rus rubra, Myrica cerifera, Ftelea, JEfculus pavia, 
 Quercus Ilex, CX glandifer, Q^ maritima, foliis 
 cuneiformibus oblolete trilobis minoribus, CX pu- 
 mila, Rhamnus frangula, Halelia diptera, k terrap- 
 tera, Caffine, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa John- 
 fonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibifcus^ fpinifex, 
 Zanthoxylon, Hopea tindoria, Sideroxylum, with 
 a multitude of other fhrubs, many of which were 
 new to me, and fome of them admirably beautiful 
 and fmgular. One of them particularly engaged my 
 notice, which, from its frudification, I took to be 
 a fpecies of Cacalia. It is an evergreen Ilirub, about 
 fix or eight feet high ; the leaves are generally 
 fomewhat cuneiform, fleihy, and of a pale whitilh 
 green, both furfaces being covered with a hoary 
 pubefcence and veficulse, that when preifed feels 
 clammy, and emits an agreeable fcent ; the afcend* 
 ent branches terminate with large tufts of corymbes 
 of role-coloured flowers, of the fame agreeable 
 fcent ; thefe clufters of flowers, at a difl:ance, look , 
 *ike a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower (Syn- 
 gencha Polyg. ^qul. Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla, 
 foliis cuneiformibus, carnofis, papil. vifcidis. 
 
 Here is alfo another fpecies of the fame genus, 
 but it does not grow quite fo large ; the leaves are 
 fmaller> of yet duller green colour, and the flowers 
 are of a pale rofe ; they arc both valuable evergreens. 
 
 The trees and (hrubs which cover thefe extenfive 
 wilds, are about five or fix feet high, and feem to 
 L>e kept down by the annual firing of the deferts^ 
 rather than the barrennefs of the foil, as I faw a 
 few large 1-ive Oaks, Mulberry trees and Hicco- 
 
 rica. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 1 63 
 
 ries, which evidently have withflood the devouring 
 flames. Thefe adjoining vild plains, fbrefts, and 
 favannas, are fituated lower than the hilly groves on 
 the banks of the lake and river ; but vhat Ihould be 
 the natural caufe of it I cannot even pretend to 
 conjefture, unlefs one may liippofe that thoie high 
 hills, which we call bluti's, on the banks of this 
 great river and its lakes, and which fupport thofe 
 magnificent groves and high forefls, and are gene- 
 rally compofed of fliells and fand, were thrown up 
 to their prefent height by the winds and waves, 
 when the bed of the river was nearer the level of the 
 prefent furface of the earth ; but then, to reft upon 
 luch a fuppofition, would be admitting that the 
 Xvaters were heretofore in greater quantities than at 
 this time, or that their prefent channels and recepta- 
 cles are worn deeper into the earth. 
 
 I now dire<^ed my fteps towards my encamp- 
 ment, in a ditferent diredlion. I feated myfelf 
 upon a fwelling green knoll, at the head of the cryi- 
 tal bafon. Near me, on the left, was a point or 
 projeclicn of an entire grove of the aromatic lUiciuni 
 Floridanum ; on my right and all around behind 
 me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and 
 Magnolias interfperfed ; in front, juft under my 
 feet, was the inchanting and amazing cryftal foun- 
 tain, which incefl'antly threw up, from dark, rocky 
 caverns below, tons of water every minute, form- 
 ing a bafon, capacious enough for large Ihallops 
 to ride in, and a creek of four or five feet depth 
 of water, and near twenty yards over, which 
 meanders fix miles through green meadows, pour- 
 ing its Hmpid waters into the great Lake George, 
 where they feem to remain pure and unmixed. A- 
 bout twenty yards from the upper edge of the bafon, 
 
 M 2 and 
 
164 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and directly oppofite to the mouth or outlet of the 
 creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where 
 the waters are thrown up in fuch abundance and 
 amazing force, as to jet and fwell up two or three 
 feet above the common furface: white land and fmall 
 particles of ibells are thrown up with the waters, 
 near to the top, when they diverge from the centre, 
 fubfide with the expanding flood, and gently fmk 
 again, forming a large rim or funnel round about 
 the aperture or mouth of the fountain, which is a 
 valt perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged 
 points of which are projedted out on every fide. 
 Thus far I know to be matter of real fa6l, and I « 
 have related it as near as I could conceive or exprefs 
 myfelf. But there are yet remaining fcenes inex.- 
 preilibly admirable and pleanng. 
 
 Behold, for Inflance, a vafl circular expanfe be- 
 fore you, the waters of v/hich are fo extremely 
 tlear as to be abiblutely diaphanous or tranfparent 
 as the ether ; the margin of the bafon ornamented 
 v.'ith a great variety of fruiifal and floriferous trees, 
 fiirubs and plants, the pendant golden Orange, 
 dancing on the furface of the pellucid waters, the 
 balmy air, vibrating with the melody of the merry 
 birds, tenants of the encircling aromatic grove. 
 
 At the fame inflant innumerable bands of fifh 
 are feen, fome clothed in the niofl brilliant colours ; 
 ihe voracious crocodile flretched along at full length, 
 as the great trunk of a tree in fize ; the devouring 
 garfilh, inimical trout, and all the varieties of 
 gilded painted bream ; the barbed catlifh, dread- 
 ed {ling-ray, Ikate, and flounder, fpotted bafs, 
 flieeps head and ominous drum ; all in their fepa- 
 Tate bandi. and communities, with free and unfuf- 
 
 picious 
 

 NORTH AMERICA. j€^ 
 
 picious Intercourfe performing their evolutions : 
 xhere are no figns of enmity, no attempt to devoiir 
 each other ; the diftereut bands feem peaceably and 
 complaifantly to move a little afide, as it were to 
 make room for others to pafs by. 
 
 But behold yet fomething far more admirable, 
 fee whole armies defcending into an abyfs, into the 
 moiith of the bubbling fountain : they difappear! are 
 they gone for ever ? is it veal ? I raile my eyes with 
 terror and aftonifhment ; i look down again to 
 the fountain with anxietv, when behold them as it 
 were emerging from the blue ether of another world, 
 apparently at a vail diltanre ; at their firft appear- 
 ance, no bigger than flies or minnows ; now gra- 
 dually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin to 
 paint the fluid. 
 
 Now they come forward rapidly, and inflantly 
 emerge, with the elaflic expanding column of cr\'f- 
 talline waters, into the circular baion or luunel : ^cr. 
 now how gently they rife, fome upright, others ob- 
 liquely, or feem to lie as it were on their fides, fuf- 
 fering themfelves to be gently lifted or borne up by 
 the expanding fluid towards the furlace, failing or 
 floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether ; then 
 again they as gently defcend, diverge and move oil ; 
 when they rally, form again, and rejoin their kin- 
 dred tribes. 
 
 This amazing and delightful fcene, though real, 
 appears at tirll but as a piece of excellent paint- 
 ing ; there feems no mjedium; vou imagine the 
 picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and 
 that you may without the lall difficulty touch any 
 one of the fi(h, or put vour finger upon the croco- 
 dile's eye, when it really is twenty or thirty feet 
 under water. 
 
 And 
 
1 66 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 And although this paradife of fifh may feem to 
 exhibit a juft reprefentation of the peaceable and 
 happy (late of nature which exifted before the fall, 
 yet in reality it is a mere reprefentation ; for the 
 nature of the fifh is the fame as if they were in Lake 
 George or the river ; but here the water or element 
 in which they live and move, is fo perfectly clear 
 and tranfparent, it places them ail on an equality 
 with regard to their ability to injure or efcape from 
 one another; (as all river fifh of prey, or fuch as 
 feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldy cro- 
 codile, take their prey by furprife ; fecreting 
 themfelves under covert or in ambufh, until an op- 
 portunity ofters, when they rufh fuddenly upon 
 them :) but here is no covert, no ambufh ; here the 
 trout freely pafTes by the very nofe of the alligatorj 
 and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout. 
 
 But what is really furprifing is, that the confciouf- 
 nefs of each other's fafety, or fome other latent 
 caufe, ihould fo abfolutely alter their conduct, for 
 here is not the leafl attempt made to injure or dif- 
 turb one another. 
 
 The fun pafTmg below the horizon, and night ap- 
 proaching, I rofe from my feat, and proceeding on 
 arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, fupped and 
 repofed peaceably. Rifing early, I employed the 
 fore part of the day in colleding fpecimens of grow- 
 ing roots and feeds. In the afternoon, I left thefe 
 Elyfian fprings and the aromatic groves, and brilkly 
 defcended the pellucid little river, re-entering the 
 great lake. The wind being gentle and fair for 
 Mount Royal, I hoifted fail, and iuccefslully crofling 
 the N. weft bay, about nine miles, Qame to at 
 Rocky Point, the weft cape or promontory, as we 
 enter the river defcending towards Mount Royal : 
 
 thefe 
 
NORTH AMERICA. l6j 
 
 theffe rocks are horizontal flabs or flat mafTcs, rifmg 
 out of the lake two or three feet above its furface, 
 and feem an aggregate conipofition or concrete of 
 fand, fhells, and calcareous cement, of a dark gray 
 or dufky colour. The ftones are hard and firm 
 enough for buildings, and ferve very well for light 
 hfind mill-ftones ; and when calcined afford a coarfe 
 lime : they lie in vail horizontal mafles upon one 
 another, from one to two or three feet in thicknefs, and 
 are eafily feparated and broken to any fize or lorm, 
 for the purpofe of building. Rocky Point is an 
 airy, cool, and ddlghttnl fituation, commandint^ 
 a moft ample and pleafing prolpct^t of the lake and 
 its environs ; but here being no wood, I re- 
 embarked and failed down a little farther to the 
 ifland' in the bay, where I went on fliore at a mag- 
 nificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, defirous 
 of augmenting my colledtions. I arofe early next 
 morning, and after ranging the groves and favannas, 
 returned, embarked again, and defcending, called 
 at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my collecl:ions ; 
 and bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady who 
 refided there, and who treated me with great hof- 
 pitaUty on my afcent up the river, arrived in the 
 evening at the lower trading houfe. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
l68 TRAVELS IN 
 
 c H A P. vr. 
 
 Om my return from my voyage to the upper flore, 
 I underftood from the trading company defigned for 
 Cufcowilla, that they had been very aftive in their 
 preparations, and would be ready to fet off in a few 
 days. I therefore availed myfelf of the little time 
 allowed me to fecure and preferve my collections, 
 againft the arrival of the trading fchooner, which 
 was hourly expected, that every thing might be in 
 readinefs to be fhipped on board her, in cafe (he 
 fhould load again and return for Savanna during my 
 abfence. 
 
 Every neceffary being now in readinefs, early on 
 a fine morning we proceeded, attended by four 
 men under the conducl of an old trader, whom Mr. 
 M'Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper 
 and other chiefs of Cufcowilla, on the fubject of re- 
 eftabliihing the trade. Sec. agreeable to the late 
 treaty of St. Auguftine. 
 
 For the firfl: four or five miles we travelled weft- 
 ward, over a perfectly level plain, which appeared 
 before and on each fide of us, as a charming green 
 meadow, thinly plantid with low fpreadi ng Pine 
 trees (P. paluftris). The upper flratum of the earth 
 is a fine white cryftalline fand, the very upper fur- 
 face of which being mixed or incorporated wirh 
 the afhes of burnt vegetables, renders it of fufii- 
 cient ftrength or fertility to clothe itfelf perfectly 
 with a very great variety of gralfes, herbage, and 
 remarkably flow Ihrubs, together with a very dwarl 
 Species of Palmetto (Corypha pumila ftipit. ferratis). 
 
 Of 
 
>fOP.TH AMERICA. l6g 
 
 Of the low fhrubs, many were new to nie and of a 
 very pleafing appearance, particularly a fpecies of 
 annona (annona Incarna, tloribus grandiorilius pani- 
 culatis) ; this grows three, four, or five iett high, 
 the leaves fomewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate, 
 attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or light 
 green colour, covered with a pubefcence or Ihort 
 tine down ; the flowers very large, perfcdly white 
 and fweet fcented, many connected together on 
 large loofe panicles or fpikes ; the fruit ot the fize 
 and form of a fmall cucumber, the fkin or exterior 
 furface fomewhat rimofe or fcabrous, containing a 
 yellow pulp of the confidence of a hard cufiard, 
 and very delicioUvS, wholefome food. This feems a 
 variety, if not the fame that I firft remarked, grow- 
 ing on the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Char- 
 lotia, and many other places in Georgia and Eall 
 Florida ; and I obferved here in plenty, the very 
 dwarf decumbent annona, with narrow leaves, and 
 various flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (an- 
 nona pigmsca). Here is alfo abundance of the beau- 
 tiful little dwarf kalmia ciliata, already defcribed. 
 The white berried empetrum, a very pretty ever- 
 green, grows here on fomewhat higher and drier 
 knolls, in large patches or clumps, aflTociatcd with 
 olea Americana, feveral fpecies of dwarf querci 
 (oaks), vaccinium, Gordonialafianthus, Andromeda 
 ferruginca, and a very curious and beautiful flirub 
 which feems allied to the rhododendron, cafiine, 
 rhamnus frangula, Andromeda liitida. Sec. which 
 being of a dark green foliage, diveifify and enliven 
 the landfcape : but what appears very extraordinary, 
 is to behold here, deprefied and degraded, the glo- 
 rious pyramidal magnolia grandiflora, aflbciatcd 
 amonglt thefe vile dwarfs, and even fome of them 
 rifing above it, though not five feet high j yet Hill 
 
 Ihowing 
 
rTC TRA\'«LS IN 
 
 fhowing 1/irpre, beautiful and expanfive wliite fra- 
 j;rant blolTbins, and great heavy cones, on (lender 
 procumbent branches, fome even lying on the earth ; 
 the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident 
 from the vafl excrefcent tuberous roots, covering 
 feveral feet of ground, from which thefe flender 
 /hoots fpring. 
 
 In fuch clumps and coverts are to be feen feveral 
 kinds of birds, particularly a fpecics of jay (pica 
 glandaria cerulea non criflata) : they are generally 
 of an azure blue colour, have no crcft or tuft of 
 feathers on the head, nor are they fo large as the 
 great crefted blue jay of Virginia, but are equally 
 clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla erythropthal- 
 ma) are very numerous, as are a fpecies of bluifh 
 gray butcher bird (lanius). Here were alfo lizards 
 and fnakes. The lizards were of that fpecies called 
 in Carolina, fcorpioQS : they are from five to fix 
 inches in length, of a flender form ; the tail in par- 
 ticular Is very long and fmall : they are of a yellow- 
 ilh clay colour, varied with longitudinal lines or 
 llripes of a dufl^y brown colour, from head to tail : 
 they are wholly covered with very fmall fquamas, 
 vibrate their tail, and dart forth and brandifh their 
 forked tongue after the manner of ferpents, \vhen 
 they are furprifed or in purfuit of their prey, which 
 are fcarabei, locufi?e, mufci, and other infetfls ; but 
 I do not learn that their bite is poifonous, yet I have 
 obferved cats to be fick foon after eating them. 
 After pafTmg over this extenfive, level, hard, wet 
 favanna, we croflcd a fine brook or rivulet ; the 
 water cool and pleafant ; it§ banks adorned wilh va- 
 rieties of trees and fhrubs, particularly tlie delicate 
 cvrilla raceiniflora, chionanthus, clethra, nyifa 
 fylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formo- 
 fiifnna : and here were great quantities of a very 
 
 large 
 
XORTH AMERICA. I7I 
 
 krge and beautiful filix ofmunda, growing in great 
 tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we paiTed 
 over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered 
 with a fine fhort grafs, with abundance of low faw 
 palmetto, and a few ihrubby pine trees, quercus ni- 
 gra, quercus finuata or fcarlet oak : then the path 
 defcends to a wet bay-gale ; the ground a hard, fine, 
 white fand, covered with black Audi, which conti- 
 nues above two miles, w hen it gently rifes the higher 
 fand hills, and dire<^ly after pafles through a fine 
 grove of young long-leaved pines. The foil feemed 
 here, loofe, brown, coarfe, fandy loam^ though fer- 
 tile. The afcent of the hill, ornamented with a va- 
 riety and profufion of herbaceous plants and graffes, 
 particularly amaryllis atamafco, clitoria, phlox, ipo- 
 mea, convolvulus, verbena corymbofa, ruellia, viola, 
 &c. A magnificent grove of (lately pines, fuc- 
 ceeding to the expanfive wild plains we had a long 
 time traverfed, had a pleafing efted, roufing the 
 faculties of the mind, awakening the imagination by 
 its fublimity, and arrefling every aclive, inquifitive 
 idea, by the variety of the fcencry, and the folemn 
 fymphony of the fteady Wedern breezes, playing 
 inceifantly, rifing and falling through the thick and 
 wavy foliage. 
 
 The pine groves parted, w^e immediately find our- 
 felves on the entrance of the expanfive airy pine fo- 
 relts, en parallel chains of low fwelling mounds, 
 called the Sand Kills ; iheir afcent fo eafy, as to be 
 almofl imperceptible to the progrellive traveller ; 
 yet at a dillaiit view before us in feme degree ex- 
 hibit the appearance of the mountainous fwell of 
 the ocean immediately after a temped : but yet, as 
 we approach them, they infenfibly difappear, and 
 jTeem to be loil ; and we iiiouid be ready to conclude 
 
 all 
 
172 TRAVELS IN 
 
 all to be a vifionary fcene, were it not for the fpark- 
 ling ponds and lakes, which at the fame time gleam 
 through the open forefls, before us and on every 
 fide, retaining them in the eye, until we come 
 up with them. And at laft the imagination re- 
 mains flattered and dubious, by their uniformity, 
 being moflly circular or elliptical, and almofl fur- 
 rounded with expanfive green meadows ; and al- 
 ways a piclurefque dark grove of live oak, magno- 
 lia, gordonia, and the fragrant orange, encircling 
 a rocky fhaded grotto of tranfparent water, on 
 fome border of the pond or lake ; which, without 
 the aid of any poetic fable, one might naturally 
 fuppofe to be the facred abode or temporary refi- 
 dence of the guardian fpirit ; but is aftually the 
 pofTeffion and retreat of a thundering abfolute cro- 
 codile. 
 
 Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway 
 pond, where we encamped and ftayed all night. 
 This lake fpreads itfelf in a fpacious meadow, be- 
 neath a chain of elevated fand hills : the (heet of 
 water at this time was about three miles in cir- 
 cumference ; the upper end, ju(t under the hills, 
 furrounded by a crefcent of dark groves, whi(;h 
 fhaded a rocky grotto. Near this place was a flop- 
 ing green bank, terminating by a point of liat 
 rocks, which projeifted into the lake, and formed 
 one point of the crefcent that partly furrounded the 
 vaft grotto or b^fon of tranfparent waters, which 
 is called by the traders a fink-hole, a fingular kind 
 of vortex or conduit, to the fubterranean recepta- 
 cles of the waters ; but though the waters of thefe 
 ponds, in the fummer and dry feafons, evidently tend 
 towards thefe fmks, yet it is fo flowly and gradually, 
 as t« be almolt imperceptible, There is always a 
 
 meandering 
 
KOI<.TH AMERICA. 
 
 K5 
 
 expofures to light ; the fides and bellv of a briglit 
 pale yellow ; the belly faintly ftained with vermiliion 
 red, infenfibly blended with the yellow on the fides, 
 and all garnifned with fiery, blue, green, gold and 
 filver fpecks on the fcales ; the branchioftec^a, is of a 
 yellowilh clay or firaw colour ; the lower edge ov 
 border next the opening of the gills, ii near a quar- 
 . ter of an inch in breadth, of a fea green or ma- 
 rine blue ; the ulterior angle protends backwards to 
 a confiderable lengthy in the form of a fpatula or 
 feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of r 
 deep black or crow colour, reflecting green and 
 blue, and bordered round with fiery red*, fomewhat 
 like red fealing wax, reprcfenting a brilliant ruby on 
 the fide of the fifti j the fins reddifh, edged with a 
 dove colour : it is defervedly elfeemed a mod ex- 
 cellent fifli. 
 
 Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and 
 ponds of Ealt Florida, the great foft ilielled tor- 
 toifes* : they are very large when full grown, from 
 twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely 
 fat and delicious, but if eaten to exc^[s are apt to 
 purge people not accudomed to eat their meat. 
 
 They are flat and rery thin ; two feet and a half 
 in length, and eighteen inches in breadth acrofs the 
 back ; in form, appearance, and texture, very much 
 refembling the lea turtle : the whole back fhcll, 
 . except the vertebra or ridge, which is not at all 
 prominent, and ribs on each fide, is foft or carti- 
 laginous, and eafily reduced to a jelly when boil- 
 ed ; the anterior and poflcrior extieinlcies of the 
 back fliell, appear to be embolVed with round, 
 
 * Tcllado nafo cyliiidracio clongato, truncate. 
 
 hornv 
 
lyG TRAVELS IN 
 
 horny warts or tubercles 5 the belly or nether fhell 
 is but fmall and femicartllaginous, except a nai- 
 Tow crofs bar connecting it at each end with the 
 back fliell, which is hard and ofleous ; the head is 
 large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form ; the up- 
 per mandible, however, is protended forward, and 
 truncated, fomewhat refembling a fvvine's fnout, at 
 the extreme end of which ihe noflrils are placed j 
 on each fide of the root or bafe of this probofcis are 
 the eyes, which are large ; the upper beak is hook- 
 ed and fharp, like a hawk's bill ; the lips and cor- 
 ners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled, and barb- 
 ed with long, pointed warts, which he can project 
 and contraft at pleafure, which gives the creature 
 a frightful and difagreeable countenance. They 
 bury themfelves in the flufhy bottoms of rivers 
 and ponds, under the roots of flags and other 
 aquatic herbage, leaving a hole or aperture juft 
 fufficient for their head to play through ; to fuch 
 places rhey withdraw themfelves when hungry, and 
 there feize their prey by furprife, darting out their 
 heads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary ani- 
 mal that unfortunately flrolls within their reach : 
 they can extend their neck to a furprifmg length, 
 which enables them to feize young fowl fwimming 
 on the furface of the water above them, which they 
 inftantly drag down. They are feen to raile their 
 heads above the furface of the water, in the depths 
 of the lakes and rivers, and blow, caufmg a faint 
 pulling noife, fomewhat like a porpoife ; probably 
 this is for palHme, or to charge themfelves with a 
 proper fupply of frcfli air. They are carnivorous, 
 feeding on any animal they can feize, particularly 
 young ducks, frogs, and fifh. 
 
 We had a large and fat one ferved up for our 
 
 fupper. 
 
 y 
 
T/.-, 
 
 //\rrS). 
 
 
 ^a\% 
 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 177 
 
 fupper, "which I at firft: apprehended we had made a 
 very extravagant waftc of, not being able to con- 
 iume one half of its flcfli, though excellently well 
 cooked : mv companions, however, feemed regard- 
 lefs, being in the midft of plenty and variety, at any 
 time within our reach, and to be obtained with little 
 or no trouble or fatigue on our part ; when herds of 
 deer were feeding in the green meadows before us ^ 
 flocks of turk^vs walking in the groves around us, 
 and myriads of fifh, of the greatcft variety and de- 
 licacy, fporting in the cryftailine floods before our 
 eyes. 
 
 The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked 
 limbs of the lofty pines, at a little diflance from us, 
 jfliarpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting to 
 regale themfelves on the offals, after our departure 
 Irom camp. 
 
 At the return of the morning, by the powerful 
 influence of light, the pulfe of nature becomes more 
 active, and the univerfal vibration, of life infenfibly 
 and irrenflibly moves the wondrous machine. How 
 cheerful and gay all nature appears ! Hark ! the mu- 
 sical favanna cranes, ere the chirping fparrow flirts 
 from his grafly couch, or the glorious fun gilds the 
 fops of the pines, fpread their expanfive wings, leave 
 their lofty roolls, and repair to the ample plains. 
 
 From haif-way pond, we proceed Wefl:ward, 
 through the high forclls of Cufcowilla. 
 
 The appearance of the earth for five or fix miles 
 prefented nearly the fame fcenes as heretofore. 
 
 Now the fand ridges became higher, and their 
 bafeti proportionably more exteiifive j the favannas 
 
 N and 
 
1 ;-8 TRAVilLS IN" 
 
 and ponds more expanfive ; the fummlts of the ridgeJ 
 more gravelly ; here and there, heaps or piles ot 
 rocks, emerging out of the fand and gravel : thefe 
 rocks are the fame fort of concrete of fand and fhelh 
 as noticed at St. Juan's and the great lake. The 
 vegetable productions nearly the fame as already 
 mentioned. 
 
 We gently defcended again over fand ridges, 
 eroded a rapid brook, ripling over the gravelly bedy 
 hurrying the tranfparent waters into a vaft and 
 beautiful lake, through a fme fruitful orange grove, 
 -vvhich magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to 
 a great diflance on each fide of the capes of the 
 creek. This is a ftne fituation for a capital to\vn> 
 Thefe waters are tributary to St. Juan's. 
 
 We alighted to refrefh ourfelves, and adjuft our 
 packs. Here are evident figns and traces of a power- 
 ful fettlement of the ancients. 
 
 Sat oiT again, and continued travelling over a 
 magnificent pine foieft, the ridges, low, but their' 
 r^afes extenfive, with proportionable plains. The' 
 Ready breezes gently and continually rifing and fall- 
 ing, fill the high lonefome foreds with an awful re- 
 verential harmony, inexpreflibly fublime, and not to" 
 be enjoyed any where, but iu thefe native wild In- 
 dian regions, 
 
 Crofnn.g another Urge deep creek of St. Juan's, 
 the country is a vaft level plain, and the foil good' 
 for the diltance of four or five miles, though fight 
 and fandy, producing a foreft of ftately pines and 
 Janrels, with fome others ; and a vail profufion of 
 herbage, fuch as rudbeckia, hefianthus, filphium, 
 polymnia, ruellia, verbena, rhexea, convolvulus, fo- 
 
 phora, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I79 
 
 phora, glycine, vitia, clltorea, ipomea, iirtica, falvia 
 graveolens, viola, and many more. How cheerful 
 and focial is the rural converfe of the various tribes 
 of tree frogs, whilft they look to heaven for prolific 
 ihowers ! How harmonious the flirill tuneful fongs 
 of the wood thrufii, and the foothing love lays of 
 the amorous cuckoo *, feated in the cool leafy 
 branches of the (lately magnolias and fliadowy elm.«, 
 maples and liquidambar, together with gigantic fa- 
 gus fylvatica, which Ihade and perfume the fequef- 
 tered groves ! How unexpected and enchaniing the 
 enjoyment, after traverfing a burning fandy de- 
 fert ! 
 
 Now, again, we behold the open pine forefls, and 
 afcend the fandy hilh, which continue for fome miles, 
 then gently defcend again, when a level expanfive 
 iavanjia plain prefents itfelf to view, which, after 
 entering and proceeding on, becomes wet and co- 
 vered bv a fine fliort grafs, with extenfive parterres 
 of the dwarf creeping palmetto, its ftipes fliarply 
 toothed or ferrated, together with clumps of lov/ 
 fhrubs, as kalmia, Andromeda, annona pygmea, my- 
 rica cerifera, empetrum, vaccinium, and others. 
 
 We now afcend a little again, and pafs through a 
 narrow pine forelt ; when fuddenly opens to view a 
 vaftiv extenfive and fedgy marlh, expanding South- 
 erly like an open fan, fetmingly as boundlefs as the 
 great ocean ; our road croiling the head of it, 
 about three hundred yards over ; the bottom here 
 was hard land, a loot or more under a folt muddy 
 furfnce. I'he traders informed me, that thefe valt 
 mar flies lie on the borders of a great lake, many 
 miles in length, in magnitude exceeding Lake 
 
 * Cuculus Caro'iinlcnf;s. 
 
 N 2 George, 
 
iSo TRAVELS IN 
 
 George, and communicating with St. Juan's by a 
 river * ; its contiuence above the lower ftore at the 
 Little Lake. 
 
 Obferved as we pafled over the fand hills^ the 
 dens of the great land tortoife, called gopher : this 
 iirange creature remains yet tindefcribed by hifto- 
 rians and travellers. The firft figns of" this animal's 
 exiltence, as we navel Southerly, are immediately 
 alter we crofs the Savanna River. It is to be 
 ieen only on the high dry Sand hills. V/hen arrived 
 at Its greatefl: magnitude, the upper fliell is near 
 ei-^j[hteen inches in length, and ten or twelve inches 
 m breadth ; the back is very high, and the (helf 
 of a very hard bony fubitance, confifling of many 
 regular compartments, united by futures, in the 
 manner of the other fpecies of tortoife, and covered 
 xvith thin horny plates. The nether or belly fhell 
 is large, and regularly divided tranfverfely into 
 iive parts : thefe compartments are not knit toge- 
 ther like the futures of the (kull, or the back IheU 
 of the tortoife, but adhere, or are connedled toge- 
 ther by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which ferves 
 as hinges for him to Ihut up his body withi-n his Ihell 
 at plcafure. The fore part of the belly fhell towards 
 its extremity is formed fomev/hat like a fpade, ex- 
 tends forward near three inches, and is about an inch 
 and an half in breadth ; its extremity is a Httle bifid ; 
 the pofterior divifion of the belly fhell is likewife 
 protended backwards confiderably, and is deeply 
 bifurcated. 
 
 The legs and feet are covered with flat horny 
 fquamse ; he feems to have no clefts in them or 
 toes, but long ilattifh nails or talons, fomewhac in 
 
 * Great Ockli-Waha. 
 
 refemblance 
 
NORTH AMERICA". I Si 
 
 refemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five 
 on the fore feet ; the hind legs or feet appear as if 
 truncated, or as (lumps of feet, armed ail round 
 with fliarp, ilattifli ftrong nails, the number unde- 
 termined or irregular ; the head is of a moderate 
 fize ; the upper mandible a little hooked, the e^ges 
 hard and Iharp ; the eyes are large ; the nofe pick- 
 ed ; the noftrils near together and very minute ; 
 the general colour of the animal is a light afh or 
 clay, and at a diftance, unlefs it is in motion. 
 any one would difregard or overlook it as a Hone 
 or an old flump. It is aflonifhing what a weight 
 one of thefe creatures will bear ; it will eafily carry 
 any man {landing on its back, on level ground. 
 They form great and deep dens in the fand hills, 
 cading out incredible quantities of earth. They are 
 clteemed excellent food. The eggs are larger than 
 a mufket ball, perfectly round, and the fliell hard. 
 
 After crcfling over this point or branch of the 
 marfhes, we entered a noble forell, the land level, 
 and the foil fertile, being a loofe, dark brown, coarfe 
 fandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation : the 
 foreft confilled of orange groves, overtopped by grand 
 magnolias, palms, live oaks, juglans cinerea, mo- 
 rns rubra, fagus fylvatica, tilia, and liquidambar ; 
 with various kinds of flirubs and herbaceous plants, 
 particularly callicarpa, halefia, fambucus, zanthoxy- 
 lon, ptelea, rhamnns frangula, rudbeckia, filphium, 
 polymnia, indigo fera, fophora, ialvia graveolens, 
 &c. We were cheerfully received in this hof- 
 pitable fliade, by various tribes of birds ; their 
 fprightly fongs feemed a prelude to the vicinity of 
 human habiraiions. This magnificent grove was a 
 wing of the vafl forcfts lying upon the coafl of the 
 great and beautiful laks of Cufcowilla, at no great 
 
 diftance 
 
152 TRAVELS IN 
 
 diflance from U5. Continuing eig-ht or nine miles 
 through this fublime forell:, we entered on an open 
 forefl of lofty pines and oaks, on gently fwelling 
 land hills, and prefently faw the lake, its waters 
 fparkling through the open groves. Near the path 
 was a large artificial mound of earth, on a moil 
 charming, high fituation, fuppofed to be the work 
 of the ancient Floridans or Yaraafees ; with other 
 traces of an Indian town. Here were three or four 
 Indian habitations ; the women and children faluteJ 
 us with cheerfulnefs and complaifance. After riding 
 near a mile farther, we arrived at Cufcowilla, near 
 the banks : a pretty brook cf water ran through the 
 town, and entered the lake jufl by. 
 
 We were welcomed to the town, and conducted 
 by the young men and maidens to the chiefs houfe^ 
 which flood on an eminence, and was dlrtinguifhed 
 from the reft by its fuperior magnitude, a large flag , 
 being hoifled on a high flaff at one corner. We 
 immediately alighted : the chief, who is called the 
 Cowkeeper, attended by feveral ancient men, came 
 to us, and in a very free and fociable manner, fhook 
 our hands, or rather arms, (a form of ialutation pe- 
 culiar to the American Indians) faying at the fame 
 time, " You are come." We followed him to 
 an apartment prepared for the reception of their 
 gueffs. ■ • ' 
 
 The pipe being filled, it is handed around ; after 
 which a large bowl, with What they call, " thin 
 drink," is brought in and fet down on a imall low 
 table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle ; each 
 perfon takes up in it as much as he pleafes, and after 
 drinking until fatisfied, returns it again into the 
 bowl, pufhing the handle towards the next perfon in 
 the circle j and lo it goes round. 
 
 After 
 
NORTH AMERICA. j3^ 
 
 After the ufual compliments and inquiries rela,- 
 t'lve to our adventures, &c. the chief trader inform- 
 ed the Cowkeeper, in the prefence of his council or 
 attendants, the purport of our bufinefs, with which 
 he expreffed his fatisfadion. He was then informed 
 what the nature of my errand was, and he received 
 me with complaifance, giving me unlimited permif- 
 fion to travel over the country for the purpofe of 
 collecting flowers, medicinal plants, 5cc. faluting me 
 by the name of Puc Puggy, or the Flower hunter, 
 recommending me to the friendfhip and protection 
 of his people. 
 
 The next day being agreed on to hold a council 
 und tranfa<5l the bufmefs of our embalTy, we ac- 
 quainted the chief with our intention of making our 
 <"ncampment on the borders of the great Alachua 
 SAVANNA, and to return at the time appointed to 
 town, to attend the council according to agree- 
 ment. 
 
 Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner 
 of proceeding on the further fettlement of the treaty, 
 a confiderable number of Indians affembled around 
 their chief, when the converfation turned to common 
 and familiar topics. 
 
 The chief is a tali well made man, very affable 
 and cheerful, about fixty years of ag^, /lis eyes lively 
 and full of fire, his countenance manly and placid, 
 yet ferocious, or what we call favage, his nofe aqui- 
 line, his drcfs extremely fimple, but his head trim- 
 jncd and ornamented in the true Creek mode. He 
 has been a great warrior, having then attending 
 him as flaves, many Yamalee captives, taken by 
 .'?'"nh"tii ^'hen young. They were drCiTed better 
 
 thiin 
 
184 TRAVELS IK 
 
 than he, and ferved and waited upon him with figns 
 of the mod abjeft fear. The manners and cufloms 
 of the Alachuas, and mofl of the lower Creeks or 
 Siminoles, appear evidently tinftured with vSpanifli 
 civilization. Their religious and civil ufages mani- 
 feft a predileQion for the Spanifli cufloms. I'here 
 are feveral Chridians among them, many of whom 
 wear little filver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum 
 collar round their necks, or fufpended by a fmall 
 chain upon their breaft. Thefe are faid to be bap- 
 tized ; and notwithflanding mofl of them fpeak and 
 underfland Spanifli, yet they have been the molt 
 bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards 
 ever had. The flaves, both male and female, are 
 permitted to marry amongfl them : their children 
 are free and confidered in every refpecl equal to 
 themfelves ; but the parents continue in a (late of 
 ilavery as long as they live. 
 
 In obferving thefe Haves, we behold at once, In 
 their countenance and manners, the flriking contraft 
 betwixt a flate of freedom and Ilavery. They are 
 the tamefl, the mofl abject creatures that we can 
 pofTibly imagine : mild, peaceable, and tradable, 
 they feem to have no will or power to a6l but as di- 
 rected by their maflers ; whilfl the free Indians, on 
 the contrary, are bold, active, and clamorous. They 
 differ as widely from each other as the bull from the 
 ox. 
 
 The repafl is now brought in, confifting of veni- 
 fon, flewed Vv'ith bear's oil, frefh corn cakes, milk, 
 and homony ; and our drink, honey and water, very 
 cool and agreeable. After partaking of this ban- 
 quet, we took leave and departed for the great fa- 
 vanna. 
 
 We 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 185 
 
 We foon entered a level, graffy plain, inter- 
 fperfed with low, fpreading, three-leaved Pine-trees, 
 large patches of low fhrubs, confiding of Prinos 
 glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of 
 feveral fpecieSj and many other flirubs, with patches 
 of Palmetto. We continued travelling through 
 this favanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when the 
 land afcends a little ; we then entered a hommock. 
 or dark grove, confiding of various kinds of trees, 
 as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma. Citrus 
 Aurantium, Quercus fempervirens, Morus rubra, 
 Ulmus fylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, itfculus pa- 
 via, Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinclo- 
 ria, Cercis, Cornus Florida, Halefia diptera, Ha- 
 lefia tctraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa, An- 
 dromeda arborea, Sideroxylon fericium, Sid. tenax, 
 Vitis labrufca, Hedera arborea, lledera quinqviefo- 
 lia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunu? CaroHniana(pr. fior. 
 racemofis, foliis fempervirentibus, lato-lanceolatis, 
 acuminatis, ferralis) Fagus fylvatica, Zanthoxylon 
 clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Frax- 
 inus excclfior, with many others already mention- 
 ed. The land dill gently rifing, the foil fertile, 
 loofe, loamy, and of a dark brown colour. This 
 continues near a mile ; when at once opens to view 
 the mod fudden tranfition from darknefs to light, 
 that can poinbly be exhibited in a natural land- 
 Icape. 
 
 The cxtenfive Alachua favanna Is a level green 
 plain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in cir- 
 cumference, and fcnrcely a tree or buHi of any kind 
 to be feen on it. It is encircled with high, doping 
 hills, covered with wavins^ foreds and fragrant 
 Orange groves, rifing from an exuberantly fertile foil. 
 The towering Magnolia grandidora and tranfcen- 
 
 dcnt 
 
s86 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dent Palm, (land confpicuous amongd: them.. At 
 ihe fame time are feen innumerable droves of cat* 
 lie; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and fleek caprir 
 ■cious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their 
 cheerful focial voices. Herds of fprightly deer, 
 fquadrons of the beautiful fleet Sirainole horfe, 
 blocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the fo- 
 Tiorous watchful crane, mix together, appearing 
 happy and contented in the enjoyment of peact;, 
 ■(ill dilKirbed and affrighted by the warrior man. 
 Behold yonder, coming upon them through the 
 darkened groves, fneakingly and unawares, the 
 Kiaked red warrior, invading the Elyfian fields and 
 green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appear- 
 ance of the painted, fearlefs, uncontrouled, and free 
 Siminole, tiie peaceful innocent nations are at once 
 thrown into dilorder and diiinay. See the ditFcrent 
 ■tribes and bands, how they draw towards each 
 other ! as it were deliberating upon the general 
 good. Suddenly they fpeed off with their young 
 in the centre ; but the roebuck fears him not : here 
 he lays himfelf down, bathes and flounces in the 
 cool flood. The red w^arrior, whofe plumed head 
 f.afhes lightning, wiioops in vain ; his proud am- 
 bitious horfe ftrains and pants ; the earth glides 
 from under his feet, his flowing mane whiilles in tht 
 wind, as he comes up full of vain hopes. The 
 bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rifes up,, 
 lifts aloft his antlered head, eretis the white flag*, 
 and fetching a flirill whiPile, fays to his fleet and free 
 alTociates, " follow :" he bounds off, and in a few 
 minutes diftances his foe a mile; fuddenly he flops, 
 turns about, and laughing fays, " how vain ! go 
 chafe meteors in the azure plains above, or hui)t 
 "butterflies in the fields about your towns." 
 
 * Aljudine to his tail« 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 187 
 
 We approached the favanna at the fouth end by 
 a narrow iflhmus of level ground, open to the light 
 of day, and clear of trees or buflies, and not greatly 
 elevated above the common level, having on our 
 light a fpacious meadow, embelliflied with a little 
 lake, one verge of which was not very diftant from 
 us ; its fhore is a moderately hiiih, circular bank, 
 partly encircling a cove of the pond, m the form 
 of a half moon ; the water is clear and deep, and, 
 at the dillance of fome hundred yards, was a large 
 rioating field (if I may fo exprefs myfelt) of the 
 Nymph^ea nelumbo, with their golden bloflbms wav 
 ing 10 and fro on their lofty flenis. Beyond thefc 
 fields of Nymphssa were fpacious plains, encompniled 
 by dark groves, opening to exteniive Pine ioiefts, 
 other plains flill appearing beyond them. 
 
 This little lake and furrounding meadows would 
 have been alone fufficient to furprife and delight the 
 traveller ; but being placed fo near the great fa- 
 vanna, the attention is quickly drawn olt, and wholly 
 engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, va- 
 ried, and truly aftonifliing native wild fcenes ot 
 landfcape and perfpedive, there exhibited : how 
 is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus, 
 as it were, placed on the borders of a new world ! 
 On the lirif view of fuch an amazing difplay of the 
 wifdom and power of the fupreme author of nature, 
 the mind for a moment feems fufpenJed, and im- 
 prcfled with awe. 
 
 This idhmus beinc: the common avenue or road 
 of Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a fmall 
 diilance from it, on a rifing knoll near the verge 
 ot the favanna, under fome fpreading Live Oaks : 
 this fituation was open and airy, and gave us an un- 
 bounded profpccl over the adjacent plains. Dewy 
 
 eveninof 
 
lS8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 evening now came on ; the animating breezes, 
 which cooled and tempered the meridian hours 
 of this fiiltry feafon, now genrly ceafed ; the glori- 
 ous fovereign of day, calHng in his bright beaming 
 emanations, left us in his abfence to the milder 
 government and protection of the filver queen of 
 night, attended by millions of brilliant luminaries. 
 The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying 
 roar; the fiiver plumed gannet and ftork, the fage 
 and folitary pelican of the wildernefs, had already 
 letlred to their {"ilent nocturnal habitations, in the 
 neighbouring forells ; the fonorous favanna cranes, 
 in well difciplined fquadrons, now rifing from the 
 earth, mounted aloft in fpiral circles, far above the 
 denfe atmofphere of the humid plain ; they again 
 viewed the glorious fun, and the light of day ilili 
 gleaming on their polifhed feathers, they fung their 
 evening hymn, then In a ftralght line majellically 
 defcended, and alighted on the towering Palms or 
 lofty Pines, their fecure and peaceful lodging places. 
 All around being {till and filent, we repaired to reft. 
 
 Soon after fun-rife, a party of Indians on horfe- 
 back appeared upon the favanna, to cblled toge- 
 ther feveral herds of cattle which they drove along 
 near our camp, towards the town. One of the 
 party came up, and informed us, the cattle belong- 
 ed to the chief of Cufcowilla ; that he had ordered 
 fome of the befl fteers of his droves to be flaughtered 
 for a general feaft for the whole town, in compli- 
 ment of our arrival, and pacific negociations. 
 
 The cattle were as large and fat as thofe of the 
 rich grazing paftures of Moyomenfmg in Pennfylva- 
 nla. The Indians drove off the lowing herds, and 
 we foon followed them to town, in order to be at 
 council at the appointed hour, leaving two young 
 n)en of our party to protec> our camp. 
 
 Upon 
 
NORTH AMERICA. lS(^ 
 
 Upon our arrival we repaired to the public fquare 
 or council-houfe, where the chiefs and fenators were 
 already convened ; the warriors and youjig men af- 
 fembled loon after, the bufinefs being tranfacted 
 in public. As it was no more than a ratification of 
 the late treaty of St. Augufline, with fome parti- 
 cular commercial flipulations, with refpeft to the 
 citizens of Alachua, the negotiations (oon terminated 
 to the fatisfaclion of both parties. 
 
 The banquet fucceeded ; the ribs and choiceft fat 
 pieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued, 
 were brought into the apartment of the public fquare, 
 conltrufted and appointed for feafting ; bowls and 
 kettles oi Hewed fleih and broth were brought in for 
 the next courfe, and with it a very fingular difli, 
 the traders call it tripe foup ; it is made of the bcily 
 or paunch of the beef, not overcleanfed of its 
 contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then 
 made into a thin foup, feafoned well with fait and 
 aromatic herbs ; but the feafoning not quite ftrong 
 enough to extinguilh its original favour and fcent. 
 This difh is greatly efteemed by the Indians, but 
 is, ill my judgment, the lead agreeable they have 
 amongll them. 
 
 The town of Cufcowilla, which is the capital of 
 the Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations, 
 each of which confilts of two houfes nearly the fame 
 fize, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide, 
 and about the fame in height. The door is placed 
 midway on one fide or in the front. This houfe 
 is divided equally, acrofs into two apartments, one 
 of which is the cook room and common hall, and 
 the other the lodging room. The ther houfe is 
 nearly of the famedimenfions, Handing about twenty 
 yardi from the dwelling houfe, its end fronting 
 
 the 
 
190 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the door. This building is two florles high, and 
 confhu£ted in a different manner. It is divided tranf- 
 verfely, as the other, but the end next the dwelling 
 houfe is open on three fides, fupported by pofts or 
 pillarF. It has an open loft or platform, the afcent to 
 which is by a portable flair or ladder : this is a 
 pleafant, cool, airy fituation, and here the mafter 
 or chief of the family retires to repofe in the hot 
 feafons, and receives his guefts or vifitors. The 
 other half of this building is clofed on all fides by 
 notched logs ; the lowed or ground part is a pota- 
 toe houfe, and the upper ftory over it a granary for 
 corn and other provifions. Their houfes are con- 
 flruded of a kind of frame. In the firll place, flrong 
 corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others 
 fomewhat lefs, ranging on a line between ; thefe 
 are ftrengthened by crofs pieces of timber, and the 
 whole with the roof is covered clofe with the bark 
 of the Cyprei's tree. The dwelling (lands near the , 
 middle of a fquare yard, encompaifed by' a low 
 bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard, 
 which is always carefully fwept. Their towns are 
 clean, the inhabitants being particular in laying their 
 lilth at a proper diflance from their dwellings, 
 which undoubtedly contributes to the healthiuefs of 
 their habitations. 
 
 I'he town Hands on the mod pleafant fituation 
 that could be well imagined or defiied, in an inland 
 country ; upon a high iwelling ridge of fand hills, 
 within three or four hundred yards of a large and 
 beautiful lake, the, circular fhore of which conti- 
 nually waflies a fandy beach, under a moderately 
 high floping bank, terminated on one fide by ex- 
 tenfive forelfs, confifting of Orange groves, over- 
 topped with grand Magnclias, Palms, Poplar, Ti- 
 
 lia, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I9I 
 
 Ha, Live Oaks, and others already noticed ; and the 
 oppofite point of the crefcent, gradually retires with 
 hommocky projeiling points, indentincj the grally 
 marfl-ses, and iafily terminates in inrinite green 
 plains and meadows, united with the Ikies and wa- 
 ters oF the lake. Such a natural landscape, fuch a 
 rural Icene, is not to be imitated by the united in- 
 genuity and labour of man. At prefent the ground 
 betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an 
 open giovc of very tall Pine trees, which ftanding 
 at a confiderable diilance from each ocher, admit a 
 delightful profpect of the fparkling waters. The 
 lake abounds with various excellent li!h and wild 
 fowl ; there aie incredible numbers of the latter, 
 efpecially in the winter feafon, when they arrive 
 here from the north to winter. 
 
 The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town 
 on the borders of the favanna, and built here, call- 
 ing the jiew town Cufcowilla : their reafons for re- 
 moving their habitation were on account of its un- 
 healthinefs, occafioned, as they fay, by the (lench 
 of the putiid iifn and reptiles in the fummer and au- 
 tumn, driven on fhore by the alligators, and the 
 exhalations from marflies of the favanna, toQ;ether 
 with the perfecution of the mufquitoes. 
 
 They plant but little here about the town ; onlv 
 a imall garden fpot at each habitation, confilting 
 of a little Com, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls, ;?vc. 
 Their plantation, which fupplies them with the chief 
 of their vegetable provifions, fuch as Zea, Con- 
 volvulus batata, Cucurbitacitrulus, Cue. lagenaria, 
 Cue. pepo. Cue. tnelopepo. Cue. verrucofa, Do- 
 lichos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands 
 bordering on the great iVlachua favanna, about two 
 miles diltance. This planiaticn Is one common en- 
 
 clofurC;, 
 
igZ TRAVELS IN 
 
 clofure, and Is worked and tended by the whole 
 community ; yet every family has its particular 
 part, according to its own appointment, marked off 
 when planted ; and this portion receives the com- 
 mon labour and aihlUmce until ripe, when each fa- 
 mily gathers and depofits in its granary its own pro- 
 per fliare, fetting apart a fmall gift or contribution 
 for the public granary, which (lands in the centre of 
 the plantation. 
 
 The youth, under the fupervlfal of fome of their 
 ancient people, are daily ftationed in their fields, 
 and are continually whooping and hallooing, to 
 chafe av/ay crows, jackdaws, black-birds, and fuch 
 predatory animals ; and the lads are armed with 
 bows and arrows, and being trained up to it from 
 their early youth, are fure at a mark, and in the 
 courfe of the day load themfelves with fquirrels, 
 birds, &c. The men in turn patrole the corn 
 fields at night, to protect their provifions from the 
 depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons, 
 and deer ; the two former being immoderately fond 
 of young corn, when the grain is filled with a rich 
 milk, as (wett and nourifting as cream j and the' 
 deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines. 
 
 After the fead was over, we returned to cur en- 
 campment on the great favanna, towards the even- 
 ing. Our companions, whom we left at the camp, 
 were impatient for our return, having been ou* 
 horfe hunting in the plains and groves during our 
 abfencc. I'hey foon left us, on a vifit to the town, 
 having there fome female friends, with whom they 
 were anxious to renew their acquaintance. The 
 Siminole girls are by ho means deflitute of charms 
 to pleafe the rougher fex : the white traders are 
 fully fenfible how greatly it is for their advantage 
 to 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I93 
 
 to gain their affedions and friendfliip in matters of 
 trade and commerce ; and if their love and efteein 
 for each other is fmcere, and upon principles of re- 
 ciprocity, there are but few inftances of their neg- 
 lecting or betraying the interefts and views of rheir 
 temporary hulbands ; they labour and watch con- 
 ftantly to promote their private inrerefts, and de- 
 te^ and prevent any plots or evil defjgns which may 
 threaten their perfons, or operate againfl their trade 
 or bufmefs. 
 
 In the cool of the evening I embraced the oppor- 
 tunity of making a folitary excurfion round the ad- 
 jacent lawns. Taking my fuzee with me, I foon 
 came up to a little clump of flirubs, upon a fvrelU 
 ing green knoll, where I obferved feveral large 
 faakes entwined together. I Itepped up near them ; 
 they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having 
 no inclination to ftrike at any thing, though I en- 
 deavoured to irritate them, in order to difcover 
 their dilpofition ; nor were they anxious to efcape 
 from me. This fnake is about four feet in length, 
 and as thick as a man's wrill ; the upper fide of a 
 dirty a(h colour ; the fquamas large, ridged, and 
 pointed ; the belly or under fide of a reddifh dull 
 flefh colour ; the tail part not long, but (lender, like 
 moft other innocent fnakes. They prey on rats, 
 land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them, 
 continuing my progrefs and refearches, delighted 
 with the ample profpetts around and over the fa- 
 vanna. 
 
 Stopping again at a natural fhrubbery, on turn- 
 ing my eyes to fome flowering fhrubs, I obferved 
 near my feet the furprifing glafs fnake (anguis 
 iragilisj. It feems as innocent and harmlefs as 
 a worm, li is, when full grown, two feet and 
 
 O :^a 
 
194 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and half in length, and three fourths of an inch in 
 thicknefs ; the abdomen or body part is remarkably 
 Ihort, and it feems to be all lail, which, though 
 long, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet not 
 fmall and llender as in Ivvitch fnakes. The colour 
 and texture of the whole animal is exactly hke 
 bluifli green glafs, which, together with its fragi- 
 lity, almoit perfuades a Ibanger that it is in rea- 
 lity of that brittle fubllance : but it is only the tail 
 part that breaks off, which it does like glafs, by a 
 very gentle itroke from a flender fwitch. Though 
 it is quick and nimble in twilling about, yet it 
 cannot run faft from one, but quickly fecrets it- 
 felf at the bottom of the grafs or under leaves. 
 It is a vulgar fable, that it is able to repair 
 itfelf after being broken into feveral pieces ; 
 which pieces, common report fays, by a power or 
 faculty in the animal, voluntarily approach each 
 other, join and heal again. The fun now low, 
 fhot the pointed fhadov/s of the projecting pro- 
 montories far on the Ikiits of the lucid green plain : 
 Hocks of turkeys calling upon their flrolling aflb- 
 ciates, circumfpedly marched onward to the groves 
 and high forefts, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve 
 now arrived, i turned about and regained our en- 
 campment in good time. 
 
 The morning cool and pleafant, and the fkies 
 ferene, we decamped, puriuing our progrefs round 
 the Alachua favarma. 'i'hree of our companions 
 feparating from us, went a-head, and we foon lofk 
 fight of them : jhey again parting on different ex- 
 curfions, in quelt of game and in fearch of their horfes, 
 fome entered the lurrounding groves and forefls, 
 others (truck off into the green plains. My compa- 
 liion, the old trader,- and myfelf kept together, he 
 
 beinji 
 
NORTH AIVriiRICA. I95 
 
 being the mod intelligent and willing to oblige nie. 
 We coalttd the green verge of the plain, under the 
 furrounding hills, occafionally penetrating and croil- 
 ing the pi ejecting promontories as the pathway 
 or conveniency dictated, to avoid the waters and 
 mud which flill coi.tiautd deep and boggy near the 
 ileep hills, in ipringy places ; lo that when we came 
 to luch places, we found it convenient to afcend 
 and coaft round the fides of the hills, or flrike out 
 a little into the favanna, to a moderately fwelling 
 ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delight- 
 ful green turf, was pleafant travelling ; but then we 
 were under the neceflity of fording creeks or rivu- 
 lets, which are the conduits or drains of the (hal- 
 low boggy ponds or moratVcs juil under the hills. 
 This ranee or chain of moraflc'S continues round the 
 fouth and fouth weft border of the favanna, and 
 appeared to me to be fed or occafioned by the 
 great wet bay-gale or favanna Pine lands, which lie 
 immediately back of the high hilly forefts on the 
 great favanna, part of which we crolTed in coming 
 from Cufcowilla ; which bottom is a flat, level, hard 
 fand, lying between the fand ridge of Cufcowilla, 
 and thefe eminences of the great favanna ; and is a 
 vaft receptacle or lefervoir of the rain waters, which 
 being defended from the aCtive and powerful exha- 
 lations of the meridian fun, by the fhadow of the 
 Pine trees, low fhrubs, and grafs, gradually filtei- 
 ing through the fand, drain through thefe hills, and 
 prefent themfelves in innumerable little meandering 
 rills, at the bafes of the (hady heights fronting the 
 javaiiiia. 
 
 Our progrefs this day was extremely pleafant, 
 over the green turf, having in view numerous herds 
 of cattle and deer, and fquadrons of horfe, peaceablv 
 browzing on the tender, fweet grafs, or ItroUino- 
 
 O 2 throusih. 
 
196 TRAVELS IN 
 
 through the cocl fragrant groves on the furrounding 
 heights. 
 
 Befide the continued Orange groves, thefe heights 
 abound with Palms, Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquid- 
 ambar, and Fagus fylvatica of incredible magni- 
 tude, their trunks imitating the fhafts of vaft co- 
 lumns : we obferved Calline, Prunus, Vitis la- 
 brufea, Rhamnus volubilis, and delightful groves of 
 jf^fculus pavia, and Prunus Caroliniana, a mofl 
 beautiful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of 
 Jweet, white bloflbms. 
 
 Palling through a great extent of ancient Indian 
 fields, now grown over with forefts of (lately trees. 
 Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage, the old 
 trader, my affociate, informed me it was the an- 
 cient Alachua, the capital of that famous and power- 
 ful tribe, who peopled the hills furrounding the. 
 favanna, when, in days of old, they could aflemble by 
 thoufands at ball play and other juvenile diverfions 
 and athletic exercifes, over thofe, then happy, fields 
 and green plains. And there is no reafon to doubt 
 of his account being true, as almoft every ftep we 
 take over thofe fertile heights, difcovers remains and 
 traces of ancient human habitations and cultiva- 
 tion. It is the mofl elevated eminence upon the fa- 
 vanna ; and here the hills defcend gradually to the 
 favanna, by a range of gentle, grafly banks. Ar7 
 riving at a fwelling green knoll, at fome diflance 
 in the plains, near the banks of a pond, oppofite 
 the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our 
 meeting again together, it being near night, our 
 aflbciates loon after joined us, where we lodged. 
 Early next morning we continued our tour ; one di- 
 vifion of our company direding its courfe acrofs 
 the plains to the north coaft ; my old companion, 
 
 with 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I97 
 
 with myfelf in company, continued our former rout, 
 coafting the favanna W. and N. W. ; and by agree- 
 ment we were all to meet again at night, at the E. 
 end of the favanna. 
 
 We continued fome miles crofling over, from pro- 
 montory to promontory, the moft enchanting green 
 coves and viftas, fcolloping and indenting the high 
 coafts of the vail plain. Obferving a company of 
 wolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about a 
 quarter of a mile from fliore, we rode up towards 
 them ; they obferving our approach, fat on their 
 hinder parts until we came nearly within fliot of 
 them, when they trotted off towards the foiefts, 
 but flopped again and looked at us, at about two 
 hundred yards diftance : we then whooped, and 
 made a feint to purfue them ; when they feparaied 
 from each other, fome flretching off into the plains, 
 and others feeking covert in the groves on Ihore. 
 When we got to the trees, we obferved they had been 
 feeding on the carcafe of a horfe. The wolves of 
 Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly 
 black, except the females, wiiich have a white fpot 
 on the breafl ; but they are not fo large as the 
 wolves of Canada and Pennfylvania, which are of a 
 yellowifli brown colour. There were a number of 
 vultures on the trees over the carcafe, who, as foon 
 as the wolves ran off, immediately fettled down 
 upon it ; they were however held in reflraint 
 and fubordination by the bald eagle (falco leucoce- 
 phalus). 
 
 On our route near a long proje(fl:ed point of the 
 coaft, we obferved a large flock of turkeys : at 
 our approach they half ened to the groves. We foou 
 eained the promontory. On the afcending hills were 
 vefliges of an ancient Indian town, now overiha- 
 
 dowcd 
 
198 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dowed with p^roves of the Orange, loaded with both 
 green and ripe fruit, and embelliflied with their 
 fragrant bloom, gratifying the tafte, the fight, and 
 the fmell at the fame inftant Leaving this delight- 
 ful retreat, we foon came to the verge of the groves, 
 when prefented to view a vafl verdant bay of the 
 favanna. We difcovered a herd of deer feeding at 
 a fmall diftance ; upon the fight of us they ran off, 
 taking fhelter in the groves on the oppofite point or 
 cape of this fpacious meadow. My companions be- 
 ing old expert hunters, quickly concerted a plan 
 for their deflrudion. One of our company imme- 
 diately (Iruck off, obliquely croffing the meadow for 
 the oppofite groves, in order to intercept them, 
 if they fhould continue their courfe up the foreff, to 
 the main ; and we croffed ftraight over to the point, 
 if poffible to keep them in fight, and watch their 
 motions, knowing that they would make a (land 
 thereabouts, before they would attempt their laft 
 efcape. On drawing near the point, we flackened 
 our pace, and cautioufly entered the groves ; when 
 we beheld them thoughtlefs and fecure, flouncing 
 in a fparkling pond, in .a green meadow or cove 
 beyond the point ; feme were lying down on their 
 fides in the cool waters, whilff others were prancing 
 like young kids ; the young bucks in playfome fport, 
 with their fl:iarp horns hooking and fpurring the 
 ethers, urging them to fplafli the water. 
 
 1 endeavoured to plead for their lives ; but my 
 old friend, though he was a fenfible rational and 
 good fort of man, would not yield to my philofo- 
 phy. Ke requefted me to mind our horfcs, while he 
 made his approaches, cautioufly gaining ground on 
 them, from tree to tree, v.'hen they all fuddenly 
 fprang up and herded together : a princely buck 
 \^ho headed the party, whiffled and bounded off; 
 
 his 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I99 
 
 his retinue followed ; but unfortunately for their 
 chief, he led them with prodigious fpeed out to- 
 wards the favanna very near us, and when palling 
 by, the lucky old hunter, fired and laid him prof- 
 rrate upon the green turf, but a few yards from us. 
 His affrighted followers ar the inftant fprang off in 
 every direction, ftreaining away like meteors or 
 phantoms, and we quickly loft fight of them. He 
 opened his body, took out the entrails, and placed 
 the carcafe in the fork of a tree, calling his frock 
 or hunting fliirt over to prote»ft it from the vukures 
 and crows, who follow the hunter as regularly as 
 his own fliade. 
 
 Our companions foon arrived. We fcl forward 
 again, enjoying the like fccneswc had already pall; 
 obferved parties of Siminole' horfes couvfing over 
 the plains, and frequently faw deer, turkeys, and 
 wolves, but they knew their fafcty here, keeping 
 far enough out of our reach. The wary, (liarp 
 fighted crane, circumrpec\ly obferved cur progrel's. 
 We faw a female of them fitting on her ned, and 
 the majc, her mate, watclifully traverfing back- 
 wards and forwards, at a fmall dillance ; they fuf- 
 fered us to approach near them before they aroie, 
 when they fprcad their Vvings, running and tipping 
 the ground with their feet fonie time, and then 
 mounted aloft, foaring round and rou:id over the 
 neft. They fit upon only two eggs at a time, which 
 are very large, long, and pointed at one end, of a 
 pale afh colour, powdered or fpeckled wi[h brown. 
 The manner of forming their nells and, fitting is 
 very fingular : choofing a tulfock, and there forming 
 a rude lieap of dry grafs, or fuch like materials, 
 near as high as their body is from rhe ground, when 
 (landing upon their fis.r, ou the fmnmit of rliis 
 
 rhev 
 
40O TRAVELS m 
 
 they form the neft of fine foft dry grais. When they 
 cover their eggs to hatch them, they (land over them, 
 bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs. 
 
 We again came up to a long projecting point of 
 the high forefts, beyond which opened to view an 
 extenfive grafly cove of the favanna, feveral miles in 
 circuit. We crofled flraight over from this promon- 
 tory to the oppofite coaft, and on the way were con- 
 flrained to wade a mile or more through the water, 
 though at a little diflance from us it appeared as a 
 delightful meadow, the grafs growing through the 
 water, the middle of which, however, when we 
 came up, proved to be a large fpace of clear water 
 aimofl deep enough to fwim our horfes ; it being a 
 large branch of the main creek which drains the fa- 
 vanna. After getting through this morafs, we arrived 
 on a delightful, level, green meadow, as ufual, 
 which continued about a mile, when we reached 
 the firm land ; and then gradually afcending, we 
 alighted on a hard fandy beach, which exhibited evi- 
 dent figns of being wafhed by the waves of the favan- 
 na, when in the winter feafon it is all under water, 
 aPxd then prefents the appearance of a large lake. 
 The coa(t here is much lower than the oppofite {]de^ 
 which we had left behind us, and rifes from the 
 meadows with a gradual Hoping afcent, covered 
 fcatteringly with lov/ fpreading Live Oaks, fnort 
 Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cafline, Si- 
 deroxylon, Quercus nigra, Q^ fmuata, and others ; 
 all leaning from the bleak winds that opprefs them. 
 About one hundred yards back from this beach, the 
 fand hills gradually rife, and the open Tine fo- 
 refts appear. We coaft ed a mile or two along the 
 beach, then doubled a promontory of high forefts, 
 and foon after came to a fwift running brook of 
 
 clear 
 
KOR.TH AMERICA. 20f 
 
 clear water, rolling over gravel and white fand, 
 which being brought along with it, in its defcent 
 down the lleeper fandy beach, formed an eafy fwell- 
 ing bank or bar. The waters fpread greatly at this 
 place, exhibiting a (hallow glittering fheet of clear 
 water, but jufl fufficient continually to cover the 
 clear gravelly bed, and feemed to be funk a little 
 below the common furface of the beach. This 
 ftream, however, is foon feparated into a number of 
 rivulets, by fmall fandy and gravelly ridges ; and the 
 waters are finally ftolen away from the fight, by a 
 charming green meadow, but again fecretly uniting 
 under the tall grafs, form a little creek, meandering 
 through the turfy plain, marking its courfe by reeds 
 and ruflies, which fpring up from its banks, joining 
 the main creek that runs through the favanna, and 
 at length delivers the water into the Great Sink. 
 Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up to 
 and crofled another brook larger than the former, 
 which exhibited the like delightful appearance. 
 We next palled over a level green lawn, a cove 
 of the favanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. Wo 
 alighted in a pleafant vifla, turning our horfes to 
 graze while we amufed ourfelves with exploring the 
 borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group 
 of rocky hills almofl: fur rounds a large bafon, which 
 is the general receptacle «f the water, draining from 
 every part of the vafl: favanna, by lateral conduits, 
 windinjjj about, and one after another ioinincr the 
 
 . , I JO 
 
 mam creek or general conductor, v/hich at length 
 delivers them into this fink ; where they defcend by 
 flow degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bow- 
 els of the earth, whence they are carried by fecret 
 fubterraneous channels into other reccjitacles and 
 bafons. 
 
 We 
 
2C2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 We afcended a colleiJlion of eminences, covered 
 with dark groves, which is one point of the crefcent 
 that partly encircles the fink or bafon, open only on 
 the fide next the favanna, where it is joined to the 
 great channel or general conduclor of the waters. 
 From this point over to the oppofite point of the 
 crefcent (which is a fimilar high rocky promontory) 
 is about one hundred yards, forming a vaft femi- 
 circular cove or bafon, the hills encircling it rifmg 
 very fteep fifty or fixty feet, high, rocky, perpen- 
 dicular and bare of earth next the waters of the ba- 
 fon. Thefe hills, from the top of the perpendicular, 
 fluted, excavated walls of rock, flant off moderately 
 up to their fummits, and are covered with a very 
 fertile, loofe, black earth, which nourifhes and fup- 
 ports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of 
 fhrubs and herbaceous plants. Thefe high foreil 
 trees furrounding the bafon, by their great height 
 and fpread, fo effedually fhade the waters, that 
 comint^ fuddenly from the open plains, we feem at 
 once ihut up in darknefs, and the waters appear 
 black, yet are clear. When we afcend the top of 
 the hills, we perceive the r round to be uneven, by 
 round fwelling points and correfponding hollo^vvs, 
 overfpread with gloomy (hade, occafioned by the tall 
 and fpreading trees, fuch as live oak, morus rubra, 
 zanthoxylon, fapindus, liquidambar, tilia, laurus 
 borbonia, quercus dentata, juglans cinerea, and 
 others, together with orange trees of remarkable 
 magnitude and very fruitful. But that which is moft 
 fmgular and to me unaccountable, is the infundibu- 
 liform cavities, even on the top of thefe high hills, 
 iome twenty, thirty, and forty yards acrofs, at their 
 fuperficial rims exactly circular, as if (truck with a 
 compafs, doping gradually inv/ards to a point at bat.. 
 
 torn, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. Zo;^ 
 
 torn, forming an inverted cone, or like the upper 
 wide part of a funnel : the perpendicular depth of 
 them from the common furface is various, fome de- 
 fcending twenty feet deep, others almoll to the bed 
 of rocks, which forms the foundation or nuclus of 
 the hills, and indeed of the whole country of Eaft 
 Florida : fome of them feem to be nearly filled up 
 with earth, fwept in from the common furface, but 
 retain the fame uniformity ; though fometimes fo 
 clofe together as to be broken one into another. 
 But as I (hall have occafion to fpeak further of thefe 
 fmks in the eartli hereafter, I turn my obfervatioii 
 to other objedls in view round about me. In and 
 about the Great Sink are to be fcen incredible num- 
 bers of crocodiles, fome of which are of an enormous 
 fize, and view ihc paflcnger with incredible impu- 
 dence and avidity ; and at this time they are fo abun- 
 dant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over 
 any part of the bafon and the river upon their heads, 
 which flowly float and turn about like knotty chunks 
 or logs of wood, except when they plunge or fhoot 
 forward to beat off their affociates, prcfTing too clofe 
 to each other, or taking up filh, which continually 
 crowd in upon them from the river and creeks, 
 draining from the favanna, efpecially the great trout, 
 mudfiOi, catfifh, and the various fpccies of bream : 
 the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough 
 for their throats, efpecially here, where they have a 
 fuperfluous plenty and variety of thole that are every 
 way preferable : befides, the gar being, like them- 
 felves, a warlike voracious creature, they feem to be 
 in league or confederacy together, to enflave and 
 devour the numerous defcncelefs tribes. 
 
 It is aflonifliing and incredible, perhaps, I may 
 fay, to relate what unfpeakable numbers of fifli re- 
 pair 
 
2C4 tRAV£LI IN 
 
 pair to this fatal fountain or receptacle, during the 
 latter fammer feafon and autumn, when the power- 
 jul fun beams have evaporated the waters off the 
 lavanna ; where thofe who are fo fortunate as to ef- 
 left a retreat into the conductor, and efcape the de- 
 vouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar, 
 defccnd into the earth, through the wells and cavities 
 or vaft perforations of the rocks, and from thence 
 are conduced and carried away, by fecret fubterra- 
 nean conduits and gloomy vaults, to other diftant 
 lakes and rivers. And it does not appear impro- 
 bable, but that in fome future day this vaft favanna 
 or lake of waters in the winter feafon will be difco- 
 vered to be in a great meafure filled with its finny 
 inhabitants, who are ftrangers or adventurers from 
 other lakes, ponds, and rivers, by fubterraneous ri- 
 vulets and communications to this rocky, dark door 
 or outlet, whence they afcend to its furface, fpread 
 over and people the winter lake, where they breed, 
 increafe, and continue as long as it is under water, 
 or during pleafure, for they are at all feafons to be 
 feen afccnding and defcending through the rocks : 
 but towards the autumn, when the waters have al- 
 moft left the plains they then crowd to the fmk in 
 fuch multitudes, as at times to be feen prefTmg on 
 in great banks into the bafon, being urged by pur- 
 fuing bands of alligators and gar, and when entering 
 the great bafon or fink, are fuddenly fallen upon by 
 another army of the fame devouring enemies, lying 
 in wait for them. Thoufands are driven on fiiore, 
 where they periih and rot in banks, which was evi- 
 dent at the time I was there, the Itench being into- 
 lerable, although then early in the fummer. There 
 are three great doors or vent holes through the rocks 
 in the fmk, two near the centre and the other one 
 near the rim, much higher up than the other two, 
 
 which 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 235 
 
 which was confpicuous through the clear water. 
 The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick ftrata or 
 laminae, one over the other, where the fink holes or 
 outlets are. Thefe rocks are perforated by perpen- 
 dicular wells or tubes, four, five, and fix feet in 
 diameter, exadly circular as the tube of a cannon 
 or walled well ; many of thefe are broken into one 
 arc her, forming a great ragged orifice, appearing 
 fluted by alternate jambs and femicircuiar perpendi- 
 cular niches or excavations. 
 
 Having fatisfied my curiofity in viewing this ex- 
 traordinary place and very wonderful work of na- 
 ture, we repaired to our relting place, where we 
 found our horfes and mounted again ; one of the 
 company parting from us for the buck that we had 
 Ihot and left in the fork of the tree. My friend, the 
 old trader, led the fhorteft way acrofs the plain, 
 after repafling the wet morafs which had almoft 
 fwum our horfes in the morning. At evening we 
 arrived at the place of our deflination, where our 
 aflbciates foon after rejoined us with fomc Indians, 
 who were merry agreeable guefts as long as they 
 flaid. They were in full drefs and painted ; but 
 before dark they mounted their horles, which were 
 of the true Siminole breed, fet fpurs to them, ut- 
 tering all at once a flirill whoop, and went off for 
 Cufcowilla. 
 
 Though the horned cattle and horfes bred in 
 thefe meadows are large, fleek, fprlghtly, and as 
 fat as can be in general, yet they are fubjedl to mor- 
 tal difeafes. I obferved feveral of them dreadfully 
 mortilied, their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw 
 and bleeding, which, like a mortification or flow 
 cancer, at length puts an end to their miferable 
 exiftence. The traders and li\dians call this dif- 
 
 eafe 
 
206 TRAVELS IN 
 
 eafe the water-iot or fcald, and fay it is occafioned 
 by the warm waters of the favanna, during the heats 
 of fummer and autumn, when thefe creatures wade 
 deep to feed on the water-grafs, which they are im- 
 moderately fond of; whereas the cattle which only 
 feed and range in the high forefls and pine favannas 
 are clear of this diforder. A facrifice to intemper- 
 ance and luxury. 
 
 We had heavy rains during the night, and though 
 very warm, yet no thunder and very little wind. It 
 cleared away in the morning, and the day was very 
 pleafant. Sat off for the Eaft end of the favanna, 
 colleding by the way and driving before us parties of 
 horfes, the property of the traders ; and next morn- 
 ing fet off on our return to the lower (lore on St. 
 John's, coafting the favanna yet a few miles, in ex- 
 pedation of finding the remainder of their horfes, 
 though difappointed. 
 
 We at lad bid adieu to the magnificent plains of 
 Alachua, entered the pine forefts, and foon fell into 
 the old Spanifli highway, from St. Auguftine acrofs 
 the iflhmus of Florida, to St. Mark's in the bay of 
 Apalache. Its courfe and diflance from E. to W. 
 is, from St. Augufline to Fort Picoiata on the river 
 St. Juan, twenty-feven miles; thence acrofs the 
 liver to the Poopoa Fort, three miles ; thence to 
 the Alachua Savanna, forty-five miles ; thence to 
 Talahafochte on the river Little St. Juan, feventy- 
 five miles ; thence down this river to St. Mark's, 
 thirty miles : the whole diflance from St. Augufline 
 to St. Mark's, one hundred and eighty miles. But 
 this road having been unfrequented for many years 
 paft, lince the Creeks fubdued the remnant tribes 
 of the ancit-nt Floridans, and drove the Spaniards 
 from their fettlements in Eafl Florida into St. Au- 
 gufline, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 207 
 
 guftine, which effecliuilly cut oit their communica- 
 tion between that garrilbn and St. Mark's ; this an- 
 cient highway is grown up in many places with trees 
 and Jhrubs ; but yet has left k-) deep a track on the 
 lurface of the earth, that it may be traced for ages 
 yet to come. 
 
 Leaving the highway on our left hand, wcafcended 
 a fandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with (lately 
 pines and oaks, of the latter genus particularly q. 
 fmuata, f. fiammula, q. nigra, q. rubra. Pafled by 
 an Indian village fituated on this high airy fand 
 ridge, confiiling of four or five habitations ; none 
 of the people were at home, they were out at their 
 hunting camps ; we obferved plenty of corn in their 
 cribs. Following a hunting path eight or nine miles, 
 through a vart: pine forefl and graliy favanna, well 
 timbered, the ground covered with a charming car- 
 pet of various flowering plants, came to a large 
 creek of excellent water, and here we found the en- 
 campment of the Indians, the inhabitants of the little 
 town we had pafled ; we law their women and chil- 
 dren, the men being out hunting. The women pre- 
 fented themfelves to our view as we came up, at the 
 d^or of their tents, veiled in their mantle, modeilly 
 fliowing their face?, when we faluted them. Towards 
 the evening we fell inio the old trailing path, and 
 before night came to camp at the Half way Pond. 
 Next morning, after colleding together the horfes, 
 fome of which had ftrollcd away at a great diftance, 
 we purfued our journey, and in the evening arrived 
 at the trading houfe on St. Juan'^, from a fuccefsful 
 and pleafant :our. 
 
 On my return to the flore on St. Juan's the trad- 
 ing fchooner was iheiej but as ihc was not to re- 
 turn 
 
?0S TRAVELS IN 
 
 return to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had 
 time to purfue my travels in Florida, and might at 
 ieifure plan my excurfions to coiled feeds and roots 
 in boxes, &c. 
 
 At this time the talks (or meflages between the 
 Indians and white people) were perfedly peaceable 
 and friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and the 
 Nation or Upper Creeks. Parties of Indians were 
 coming in every day with their hunts ; indeed the 
 Mufcogulges or Upper Creeks very feldom difturb 
 us. Bad talks from the Nation are always very fe- 
 rious affairs, and to the utmoft degree alarming to 
 the white inhabitants. 
 
 The Mufcogulges are under a more flrift govern- 
 ment or regular civilization than the Indians in ge- 
 neral. They lie near their potent and declared 
 enemy, the Chaftaws. Their country having a vaft 
 frontier, naturally acceffible and open to the incur- 
 lions of their enemies on all fides, they find them- 
 felves under the necellity of aifociating in large po- 
 pulous towns, and thefe towns as near together as 
 convenient, that they may be enabled to fuccour and 
 defend one another in cafe of fudden invafion. This 
 confequently occafions deer and bear to be fcarce 
 and difficult to procure, which obliges them to be 
 vigilant and induflrious ; this naturally begets care 
 and ferious attention, which we may fuppofe in fome 
 degree forms their natural difpofition and manners, 
 and gives them that air of dignified gravity, fo flrik- 
 ingly charafteriftic in their aged people, and that 
 fteadinels, jufl and cheerful reverence in the middle 
 aged and youth, which fits fo eafy upon them, and 
 appears fo natural. For, however ftrange it may 
 appear to us, the fame moral duties which with us 
 
 form 
 
 ,11 
 
NORTH AMERICA: 209 
 
 form the amiable, virtuous charaO:er, fo difficult to 
 maintain, there, without compulfion or vifible re- 
 flraint, operates like inftind, with a furprifmg har- 
 mony and natural eafe, infomuch that it feenis im- 
 pofiible tor them to ad out of the common high road 
 to virtue. 
 
 We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or 
 Siminoles, and the natural difpofition which charac- 
 tcrifes this people ; when, from the ftriking contraft, 
 the philofopher may approve or difapprove, as he 
 may^think proper, from the judgment and opinion 
 given by dilferent men. 
 
 The Siminoles are but a weak people with refped 
 to numbers. All of them, I fuppofe, would not be 
 fufficient to people one of the towns in the Mufco- 
 gulge ; for inllance, the Uches on the main branch, 
 of the Apalachucla river, which alone contains near 
 two thoul'and inhabitants. Yet this handful of people 
 poiTelTes a vaft territory ; all Eafl Florida and the 
 greatefl: part of Well: Florida, which being naturally 
 cut and divided into thoufands of iflet:, knolls, and 
 eminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, fwamps, 
 vart: favannas and ponds, form fo many fecure re- 
 treats and temporary dwelling places, that effectually 
 guard them from any fudden invafions or attacks 
 from their enemies; and being fuch a fvvampy, hom- 
 mocky country, furnifhes fuch a plenty and varjety 
 of fupplies for the nourilhment of varieties of ani- 
 mals, that I can venture to alfcrt, that no part of the 
 globe fo abounds with wild game or creatures fit for 
 the food of man. 
 
 Thus they enjov a fuperabundance of the necef- 
 faries and conveniencies of life, with the fecurity of 
 perfon and property, the two great concerns of 
 
 P mankind* 
 
2IO TRAVELS IN 
 
 friankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and 
 wolves, together with honey, wax and other pro- 
 duflions of the country, purchafe their clothing, 
 equipage, and domeflic utenfds from the whites. 
 They leem to be free from want or defires. No 
 cruel enemy to dread ; nothing to give them dif- 
 quietude, but the gradual encroachments of the 
 white people. Thus contented and undifturbed, 
 they appear as blithe and free as the birds of thp 
 air, and like them as volatile and active, tuneful 
 and vociferous. The vifage, action, and deport- 
 ment of the Siminoles, form the mod ftriking pidure 
 of happinefs in this life ; joy, contentment, love, 
 and friendfhip, without guile or afiedtation, feem 
 inherent in them, or predominant in their vital prin- 
 ciple, for it leaves them but with the laft breath v>f 
 life. It even feems impofmg a conltraint upon theii- 
 ancient chiefs and fenators, to maintain a neceflary 
 decorum and folemnity, in their public councils ; 
 not even the debiHty and decripitude of extreme old 
 age, is fufficient to erafe from their vifages, this 
 youthful, joyous fimplicity ; but like the gray eve 
 of a ferene and calm day, a gladdening, cheering 
 blufi:! remains on the Weltern horizon after the fun 
 is fet. 
 
 I doubt not but fome of my countrymen who' may 
 read thefe accounts of the Indians, which I have 
 endeavoured to relate according to truth, at leaft as 
 they appeared to me, will charge me with partiality 
 or prejudice in their favour. 
 
 I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit their 
 vices, immoralities, and impel fedions, from my 
 own obfervations and knowledge, as well as ac- 
 counts from the white traders, who refide amongft 
 tkem. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 211 
 
 The Indians make war againft, kill, and deflroy 
 their own fpecies, and their motives fpring from 
 the fame erroneous fource as they do in all other 
 nations of mankind ; that is, the ambition of exhi- 
 biting to their fellows a fuperior character of per- 
 fonal and national valour, and thereby immorta- 
 lizing themfelves, by tranfmitting their names with 
 honour and luftre to pollcrity ; or revenge of 
 their enemy, for public or perfonal infults ; or, laft- 
 ly, to extend the borders and boundaries of their 
 territories. But I cannot find, upon the ftrldeft in- 
 quiry, that their bloody contells at this day are 
 marked with deeper Aains of inhumanity or favage 
 cruelty, than what may be obferved amongft the 
 moll civilized nations: they do indeed fcalp their 
 flain enemy, but they do not kill the females or chil- 
 dren of either fex : the mofl: ancient traders, both in 
 the Lower and Upper Creeks, affured me they ne- 
 ver faw an inllance of either burning or tormenting 
 their male captives ; though it is faJd they ufed to 
 do it formerly. I faw in every town in the Nation 
 and yiminoles that I vifited, more or lefs male cap- 
 tives, fome extremely aged, who were free and in as 
 good circumdances as their maders ; and all flaves 
 have their freedom when they marry, which is per- 
 mitted and encouraged, when they and their offspring 
 are every way upon an equality with their conquer- 
 ors. They are given to adultery and fornication, 
 but, I fuppofe, in no greater excefs than other na- 
 tions of men. They punifh the delinquents, male 
 and female equally alike, by taking olF their ears. 
 This is the punifhment for adultery. Infamy and 
 difgrace is fuppofed to be a fufKcient punilhment for 
 fornication, in eithe^ fex, 
 
 P ^ They 
 
211 TRAVELS IN 
 
 They are fond of games and gambling, and amufe 
 themfelves like children, in relating extravagant fto- 
 ries, to caufe furprife and mirth. 
 
 They wage eternal war againfl deer and bear, to 
 procure food and clothing, and other neceffaries and 
 conveniencies ; which is indeed carried to an unrea- 
 fonable and perhaps criminal excefs, fmce the white 
 people have dazzled their fenfes with foreign fuper- 
 fluities. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 2 I ;J 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Ont my return to the trading houfc, from my 
 journey to the preat favanna, I found the trading 
 company for little St. Juan's preparing for that 
 poft. 
 
 My mind yet elate with the various fcenes of ru- 
 ral nature, which as a lively animated pidlure had 
 been prefented to my view ; the deeply engraven 
 imprefTion, a plcaiing flattering contemplation, gave 
 ftrength and agility to my fteps, anxioufly to prefs 
 forward to the delightful fields and groves of Apa- 
 latche. 
 
 The trading company for Talahafochte being 
 now in readinefs to proceed for that quarter, under 
 the diredion of our chief -tracer, in the cool of the 
 morning we fat olf^ each of us having a good horfe 
 to ride, befides having in our caravan feveral pack 
 horfes laden with provifions, camp equipage, and 
 other neccflaries. A young man from St. Auguf- 
 tine, in the fervice of the governor of Eafl Florida, 
 accompanied us, commiflioned to purchafe of the 
 Jjidians and traders, fome Siminole horfes. They 
 rire the moil beautiful and fprighily fpecies of that 
 noble creature, perhaps any where to be feen ; but 
 areof afniall breed, and as delicately formed as the 
 American roe buck. A horfe in the creek or Muf- 
 cogulge tongue is echoclucco, that is the great 
 deer 'echo is a deer, and clucco is big.) The Simi- 
 nole holies are fi-.id to defcend originally from the 
 
 Andalufiai^ 
 
SI4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Andalufian breed, brought here by the Spaniards 
 when they iirll eftablillied the colony of Eafl Flo- ' 
 rida. From the forehead to their nofe is a little 
 arched or aquiline, and fo are the fine Chadaw 
 horfes among the Upper Creeks, uhich are faid 
 to have been brought thither from New-Mexico 
 •acrofs Milliilippi, by thofe nations of Indians who 
 emigrated from the Weil, beyond the river. Thefe 
 horfes are every way like the Siminole breed, only 
 larger, and perhaps not fo lively and capricious. 
 It is a matter of conjedlure and inquiry, whether 
 or not the different foil and fituation of the country 
 may have contributed in fome meafure, in forming 
 and eftabliflilng the difference in fize and other qua- 
 lities betwixt them. I have obferved the horfes and 
 other animals in the high hilly country of Carolina, 
 Georgia, Virginia, and all along our fliores, are of 
 a much larger and ftronger make, than thofe which 
 are bred in the flat country next the fea coaft. A 
 buck-fkin of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees will 
 "weigh twice as heavy as thofe of the Siminoles or 
 Lower Creeks, and thofe bred in the low flat coun- 
 try of Carolina. 
 
 Our firfl; day's journey was along the Alachua 
 roads, twenty-five miles to the Half-way Pond, 
 "where we encamped : the mufquitoes were excef- 
 fively troublelome the whole night. 
 
 Decamped early next morning, ftlH purfuing the 
 road to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cufco- 
 willa ; when the road dividing, one for the town, and 
 the otlier for the great favanna, here our company 
 feparated. One party chofe to pafs through the 
 town, having fome concerns there. I kept with the 
 party that went through the favanna, it being the 
 
 bea 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 215 
 
 bell: road, leading over a part of the fav^anna ; when, 
 entering the groves on its border, we travelled- 
 feveral miles over thefe fertile eminences, and de- 
 lightful ihady fragrant forefts ; then again entered 
 upon the favannu, and crofl'ed a charming exten- 
 iive green cove or bay of it, covered with a vivid 
 green grafly turf, when we again afcendcd the wood- 
 land hills, through fruitful orange groves, and un- 
 der fliadowy palms and magnolias. Nov\^ the pine 
 forells opened to view. We left the magnificent 
 favanna and its delightful groves, palfmg through 
 a level, open, airy pine forefl, the {lately trees 
 fcatteringly planted by nature, arifmg llraight and 
 ered from the green carpet, embellifhed with va- 
 rious graifes and flowering plants ; then gradually 
 afcending the land hills, v/e foon came into the trad- 
 ing path to Talahafochte ; which is general, except- 
 ing a tew deviations, the old Spanilh highway to* 
 St. Mark's. At about five miles diitance beyond the 
 great favanna, we came to camp laic in the even- 
 ing, under a little grove of live oaks, jult by a group 
 of flieily rocks, on the banks of a beautiful little 
 lake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks, 
 as ufual in thefe regions, partly encircle a fpacious 
 fink or grotto, which communicates v/ith the waters 
 of the lake : th$ waters of the grotto are perfedly 
 tranfparent, cool, andpleafant, and Vi'ell repleiiiflied 
 with filh. Soon after our arrival here, our compa- 
 nions who paflfed through Curcov\'iila joined us. A 
 biilk cool wind during the ni;^ht kept the perfecu- 
 ting mufquitoes at a diftancc. 
 
 The morning pleafant, \vq decamped early : pro- 
 ceeding on, rifing gently for feveral miles, over 
 fandy, gravelly ridges, we found Gurf>jlves in an. ele- 
 
 vatedc 
 
21 6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 vated, high, open, airy region, fomewhat rocky, 
 on the backs of the ridges, which prefented to view, 
 on every fide, the mofl: dreary, folitary, defert wafte 
 I had ever beheld ; groups of bare rocks emerging 
 out of the naked gravel and drifts of white fand ; 
 the grafs thinly fcaitered and but few trees ; the 
 pines, oaks, olives, andfideroxylons, poor, miflia- 
 pen, and tattered ; fcarce an animal to be feen, or 
 noife heard, fave the fymphony of the Weftern 
 breeze, through the briftly pine leaves, or folitary 
 fand-cricket's fcreech, or at bed the more focial 
 converfe of the frogs, in folemn chorus with the fwift 
 breezes, brought from diftant fens and forefls. Next 
 ■we joyfully entered the borders of the level pine fo- 
 refl and favannas, which continued for many miles, 
 never out of fight of little lakes or ponds, environed 
 with illumined u^eadows, the clear waters fparkling- 
 through the tali pines. 
 
 Having a good fpirited horfe under me, I gene- 
 rally kept a-head of my companions, which I often 
 chofe to do, as circumflances offered or invited, for 
 the fake of retirement and obfervation. 
 
 The high road being here open and fpacious, at 
 a good diflance before me, 1 obferved a large hawk 
 on the ground in the middle of the road : he feem- 
 ed to be in diftrefs, endeavouring to rife ; when, 
 coming up near him, I found him clofely bound up 
 by a very long coach-whip fnakc, that had wreath- 
 ed himfelf feveral times round the hawk's body, 
 who had but one of his wings at liberty : behold- 
 ing their ftruggles a while, I alighted oif my horfe 
 with an indention of parting them ; when, on com- 
 ing up, they mutually agreed to feparate them- 
 felves, each one feeking his own fafety, probably 
 
 confideiing 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 217 
 
 confidering me as their common enemy. The bird 
 rofc aloft and iled away as foon as he recovered 
 his liberty, and the fnake as eagerly made off. I 
 foon overtook him, but could not perceive that he 
 was wounded. 
 
 I fuppofe the hawk had been the aggreflbr, and 
 fell upon the fnakc with an intention of making 
 a prey of him ; and that the fnnke dexteroufly and 
 luckily threw himfclf in coils round his body, and 
 girded him fo dole as to fave himfelf from deftruc- 
 tion. 
 
 The coach-whip fnake is a beautiful crea- 
 ture. When full grown it is fix and feven feet 
 in length, and the largell part of its body not fo 
 thick as a cane or common walking flick ; its 
 head not larger than the end of a man's finger ; 
 its neck is very flcnder, and from the abdomen 
 tapers away in the manner of a fmall fvvitch or 
 coach-whip ; the top of the head and neck, for three 
 or four inches, is as black and fliining as a raven ; 
 the throat and belly as v/hitc as fnow ; and the up- 
 per fide of the body of a chocolate colour, ex- 
 cepting the tail part, almofl from the abdomen to 
 the extremity, which is black. It may be proper to 
 obferve, however, that it varies in rcfpeft to the 
 colour of the body ; fome I have feen almofl v* hite 
 or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay 
 colour, but in all, the head and neck is black, 
 and the tail dark brown or bl"ck. It is extremely 
 fwift, feeming almoil; to fly over the fur face of 
 the ground ; and that which is very fingular, it 
 can run fwiftly on its tail part only, carrying 
 the head and body upright. Orw very fine one ac- 
 companied me along the road lidc, at a little dif- 
 tance, raifing himfelf cred, now and then looking 
 
 mc 
 
2l8 TRAVEI.S IN 
 
 me in the face, although I proceeded on a good 
 round trot on purpofe to obferve how faft they could 
 proceed in that pofirion. His object feemed mere 
 curiofity or obfervation ; with refpeft to venom 
 it is as innocent as a worm, and feems to be familiar 
 with man. It appears to be a particular inhabi- 
 tant of Eaft Florida, though I have feen fome 
 in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia, 
 but in thefe regions it is neither fo large nor beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 We afcended again, paffing over fand ridges of 
 gentle elevation, favannas and open Pine forefts. 
 Mafl'es or groups of rocks prefented to view on every 
 lide, as before mentioned ; and with difficulty Xve 
 efcaped the circular infundibuliform cavities or fmks 
 in the furface of the earth. Generally a group of 
 rocks, fliaded by Palms, Live Oaks, and Magnolias, 
 is fituated on their limb : fome are partly filled up 
 with earth, whilfl others, and the greater number 
 of them, are partly filled with tranfparent cool wa- 
 ter, which difcovers the well or perforation through 
 the rocks in the centre. This day being remarkably 
 fultry, we came to camp early, having chofen our 
 fituation under fome (lately Pines, near the verge 
 of a fpacious favanna. 
 
 After fome refrefliment, our hunters went out 
 into the foreft, and returned towards evening, 
 Amonglt other game, they brought with them a fa- 
 vanna crane * which they fhot in the adjoining mea- 
 dows. This (lately bird is about fix feet in length 
 from the toes to the extremity of the beak when 
 extended, and the wings expanded eight or nine feet; 
 it is above five feci high when (landing erect ; the 
 tail is remarkably (hort^ but the dag or pendant 
 
 * Grus. p. 
 
 feathers 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 219 
 
 feathers which fall down off the rump on each fide, 
 are very long and fliarp-pointed, of a delicate tex- 
 ture, and filky foftnefs; the beak is very long, ftraight 
 and Iharp pointed ; the crown of the head bare of 
 feathers, of a reddifh rofe colour, thinly barbed 
 with fliort, fliff, black hair ; the legs and thighs are 
 very long, and bare of feathers a great fpace above 
 the knees : the plumage of this bird is generally of 
 a pale afli colour, with fliades or clouds of pale 
 brown and iky blue, the brown prevails on the 
 fhoulders and back ; the barrels of the prime quill- 
 teathers are long and of a large diameter, leaving- 
 a large cavity when cxtraded from the wing : all 
 the bones of this bird have a thin fliell, and confe- 
 quently a large cavity or medullary receptacle. 
 When thefe birds move their wings in flight, their 
 ftrokes are flow, moderate, and regular ; and even, 
 when at a confiderable diftance or high above us, 
 we plainly hear the quill-fcaihers, their (hafts and 
 webs upon one another creak as the joints or work- 
 ing of a veifel in a tempeduous fea. 
 
 We had this fowl dreffed for fupper, and it made 
 excellent foup ; neverthclefs, as long as I can get 
 any other necefiary food, I fhall prefer their feraphic 
 mufic in the ethereal Ikies, and my eyes and under- 
 ftanding gratified in obftrving cheir economy and 
 focial communities, in the expanfive green favannas 
 of Florida. 
 
 Next morning we arofe early, and proceeding, 
 gradually defcended again, and continued many 
 miles along a flac, level country, over delightful 
 green favannas, decorated with hommocks or iflets 
 of dark groves, confiAing of Magnolia grandiflora, 
 Morus tiha, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Boibonia, Side- 
 roxylon, Qiiercus fempervirens, Halcfia diptera, Cal- 
 licarpa, Corypha palma, &c. There are always groups 
 
 of 
 
zio" 'travels in 
 
 f^f whitifh teftaceous rocks and finks where thefe 
 hommocks are. We next crofled a wet favanna, 
 which is the beginning of a region flill lower than 
 that we had traveried; here we crofied a rapid rivulet 
 of exceeding cool, pleafant water, where we halt- 
 ed to refrefli ourfelves. But it mull be remarked 
 here, that this rivulet, though lively and rapid at this 
 time, is not a permanent flream, but was formed 
 by a heavy rain that fell the day before, as was ap- 
 parent from its bed j befides it is at beif but a jet or 
 mere phantom of a brook, as the land around is 
 rocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavi- 
 ties. Soon after leaving the brook, we paffed off 
 to the left hand, along theverge of an extenfive fa- 
 vanna, and meadows many miles in circumference, 
 edged on one border with detached groves and pom- 
 pous Palms, and embelliflied with a beautiful fpark- 
 iing lake ; its verges decorated with tall waving grafs 
 and floriterous plants; the pellucid waters gently 
 rolling on to a dark fhaded grotto, juft: under a fe- 
 micircular fwelling turfy afcent or bank, fKirted by 
 groves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurels, and Palms. In 
 thefe expanfive and delightful meadows were feed- 
 ing and roving troops of the fleet Siminole horfe. 
 \Ve halted awhile at this grotto ; and, after refrelli- 
 jng ourfelves, we mounted horfe and proceeded 
 acrofs a charming lawn, part of the favanna, enter- 
 ing on it through a dark grove. In this extenfive 
 . lawn were feveral troops of horfe, and our company 
 had the fatisfaction of obferving feveral belonging 
 to themfelves. One occurrence remarkable here, 
 was a troop of horfe under the controul and care 
 of a fingle black dog, whlcli feemed to differ in 
 no refpect from the wolf of Florida, except his 
 being able to bark as the common dog. He was 
 very carciul and induibious in keeping them toge- 
 ther J 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 221 
 
 ther ; and if any one ftrolled from the reft at too 
 great a diftance, the dog would fpring up, head 
 the horfe, and bring him back to the company. The 
 proprietor of thefe horfes is an Indian in Tahiha- 
 fochte, about ten miles diilance from this place, 
 who, out of humour and experiment, trained hrs 
 dog up from a puppy to this bulinels : he follows 
 his mailer's horfes only, keeping them in a feparate 
 company where they range ; and when he is hungry 
 or wants to fee his mafter, in the evening he returns 
 to town, but never flays at home a night. 
 
 The region w-e had journeyed through, fmce we 
 decamped this morning, is of a far better foil and 
 quality than we had yet feen fmce we left Alachua ; 
 generally a dark grayifh, and fometimes brown or 
 black loam, on a foundation of whitifh marl, chalk, 
 and teflaceous limeftone rocks, and ridges of a loofe, 
 coarfe, reddifh fand, producing ftately Pines in the 
 plains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm, 
 Zanthoxylon, S:c. in the hommocks, and alfo in 
 great plenty the perennial Indigo ; it growls here five, 
 fix, and feven feet high, and as thick together as if 
 it had been planted and cultivated. The higher 
 ridges of hills afford great c]uantities of a fpecies of 
 iron ore, of that kind found in New-Jerfey and 
 Pennfylvania, and there called bog ore ; it appears 
 on the furface of the ground in large detached 
 niaffes and fmaller fragments ; it is ponderous and 
 feemed rich of that moft ufeful metal ; but one 
 property remarkable in thefe terrigenous (tones is, 
 that they appear to be bliftered, fomewhat refem- 
 bling cinders, or as if they had fufl'ered a violent 
 adion of fire. 
 
 Leaving the charming favanna and fields of Capo- 
 la, we pailed feveral miles through delightful plains 
 
 and 
 
■222 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and nieadou's, Utile differing from the environs of 
 Capola, diverfified with rocky illcts or hommocks 
 of dark woodland. 
 
 We next entered a vaft forefl: of the mod flarely 
 Pine trees that can be imagined, planted by na- 
 ture at a moderate diftance, en a level, graffy plain, 
 enamelled with a variety of flowering ihrubs, viz. 
 Viola, Ruella, infundibuliforma, Amaryllis atamaf- 
 co, Mimofa fenfitiva, Mimofa intfia ?,nd many 
 others new to me. This fublime foreft continued 
 five or fix miles, when we came to dark groves of 
 Oaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberries, &c. through 
 w^hich proceeding near a mile, ws entered open 
 fields, and arrived at the town of Talahafochte, on 
 the banks of Little St. Juan. 
 
 The river Little St. Juan may, with fmgular pro- 
 priety, be termed the pellucid river. The waters 
 are the clearefl and pureft of any river I ever faw, 
 tranfmitting diftintlly the natural form and appear- 
 ance of the objects moving in the tranfparent floods, 
 or repofing on the filvery bed, with the finny inha- 
 bitants fporting in its gently flowing ftream. 
 
 The river at the town is about two hundred yards 
 over, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. The 
 great fwamp and lake Oaquaphenogaw is faid to be 
 its fource, which is about one hundred miles by land 
 North of this place ; which would give the river a 
 courfe of near two hundred miles from its fource to 
 the fea, to follow its meanders ; as in general our 
 rivers, that run any confiderable difl:ance through 
 the country to the lea, by their windings and roving 
 about to find a paifage through the ridges and 
 heights^ at lead double their diftance. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 223 
 
 The Indians and traders fay that this liver l.as no 
 branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary to 
 it, but that it is fed or augmented by great fprings 
 which break out through the banks. From the ac- 
 counts given bv them, and my own obfervations on 
 the country round about, it ftems a probable alTer- 
 tion ; for there was not a creek or rivulet to be feen, 
 running on the furface of the ground, from the 
 great Alachua Savanna to this river, a diflance of 
 above feventy miles ; yet, perhaps, no part of the 
 earth aftbrds a greater plenty of pure, lalubrious 
 waters. The unparalleled tranfparency of thefe wa- 
 ters furnifties an argument for fuch a conjetfture, 
 that amounts at lead to a probability, were it not 
 confirmed by ocular demonftration ; for in all the 
 flat countiies of Carolina and Florida, except this 
 iilhmus, the waters of the rivers are, in fome degree, 
 turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annual 
 hring of the forefls and plains ; and afterwards the 
 heavy rains wailiing the light furlace of the burnt 
 earth into rivulets, which rivulets running rapidly 
 over the furface of the earth, flow into the rivers, 
 and tinge the waters the colour of lye or beer, 
 almoft down to the tide near the fea coaft. — 
 Bat here behold how different the appearance, 
 and how manifefl the caufe ! for although the 
 furface of the ground produces the fame vegetable 
 fubflances, the foil tiie lame, and fullers in lilic 
 manner a general conflagration, and the rains, in 
 impetuous Ihowers, as liberally defcend upon the 
 parched furface of the ground ; yet the earth be- 
 ing fo hollow and porous, thefe fuperabundant wa- 
 ters cannot conflitute a rivulet or brook, to conti- 
 nue any dillance on its furface, before they are 
 arrelted in their couxfe and fwallowed up : thence 
 
 defcendincT, 
 
224 TRAVELS IN 
 
 defcendiiig, they are filtered through the fands and 
 other ftrata of earth, to the horizontal beds of po- 
 rous rocks, which, being compofed of thin feparable 
 laminae, lying generally in obliquely horizontal 
 direftions over each other, admit thefe waters to 
 pafs on by gradual but conftant percolation. Thus 
 collecting and aflbciating, they augment and form 
 little rills, brooks, and even fubterraneous rivers, 
 which wander in darknefs beneath the furface of the 
 earth, by innumerable doublings, windings, and 
 fecret labyrinths ; no doubt in fome places forming 
 vaft refervoirs and fubterranean lakes, inhabited 
 by multitudes of fifh and aquatic animals : and pof- 
 fibly v/hen collected into large rapid brooks, meet- 
 ing irrefiftible obftrutlions in their courfe, they fud- 
 denly break through thefe perforated fluted rocks, 
 in high perpendicular jets, nearly to their former 
 level, flooding large diflrids of land. Thus by means 
 of thole fubterranean courfes, the waters are puri- 
 fied and finally carried to the banks of great rivers, 
 where they emerge and prefent themfclves to open 
 day-light, with their troops of finny inhabitants, in 
 thofe furprifing vaft fountains near the banks of this 
 river ; and likewife on and near the fliores of Great 
 St. Juan, on the eafl: coaft of the ifthmus, fome of 
 which I have already given an account of. 
 
 On our arrival at Talahafochte, in the evening 
 we repaired to the trading houfe formerly belonging 
 to our chief, v/here were a family of Indian-s, who 
 immediately and complaifantly moved out to ac- 
 commodate us. Tie White King with mofl of the 
 male inhabitants were out hunting or tending their 
 Corn plantations. 
 
 The town is delightfully fituated on the elevated 
 eafl banks cf the river, the ground ievel to near 
 the river, when it defcends fuddenly to the v/ater ; 
 
 I fuppofe 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 225 
 
 I fuppofc the perpendicular elevation of the ground 
 may be twenty or thirty feet. There are near thirty- 
 habitations conltructed after the mode of Culbo- 
 willa ; but here is a more fpacious and neat council- 
 houfe. 
 
 Thefe IpAiians have Irirgc handfomc canoes, which 
 they form out of the trunks of Cyprefs trees (Cu- 
 prelTus diiticha), fome of them commodious enough 
 to accommodate twenty or thirty warriors. In thefe 
 large canoes they defcend the river on trading and 
 hunting expeditions to the fea coaft, neighbouring 
 iflands and kevs, quite to the point of Florida, and 
 fometimes acrofs thegulph, extending their naviga- 
 tions to the Bahama iflands and even to Cuba : a 
 crew of thefe adventurers had jufl arrived, having 
 returned from Cuba but a few days before our arri- 
 val, with a cargo of fpirituous liquors, Coffee, Su- 
 gar, and Tobacco. One of them politely prefented 
 me with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he told 
 me he had received from the governor of Cuba. 
 
 They deal in the way of barter, carrying with 
 them deer Ikins, furs, dry fifli, bees-wax, honey, 
 bear's oil, and fomc other articles. They fay the 
 Spaniards receive them very friendly, arud treat 
 them with the beil fpirituous liquors. 
 
 The Spaniards of Cuba likewife trade here or at 
 St. Mark's, and other fea ports on the well coaft of 
 the illhmus, in fmall lloops ; particularly at the bay 
 of Carlos, where are excellent iifliing banks and 
 grounds ; not far from which is a confiderable town 
 of the Siminoles, where they take great quantities 
 of fifli, which they fait and cure on fliore, and barter 
 vith the Indians and traders for flvins, furs, ;?cc. and 
 return with their cargoes to Cuba. 
 
 Ci^ The 
 
226 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The trader of the town of Talahafochte informed 
 me, that he had, when trading in that town, large 
 fupplies of goods from thefe Spanlfh tiauing veflels," 
 fui table for that trade, and fome very elTcntial ar- 
 ticles, on more advantageous terms than hei could 
 purchafe at Indian ftores either in Georgia or St. 
 Auguftine. 
 
 Towards the evening after the fultry heats were 
 pafl:, a young man of our company having previ- 
 oufly procured the loan of a canoe from an Indian, 
 propoled to me a fifliing excurfion for trout with 
 the bob. We fet off down the river, and before 
 we had paffed two miles, caught enough for our 
 houfhold : he was an excellent hand at this kind of 
 diverfion : fome of the fifli were fo large and ftrong 
 in their element, as to fhake his arms ftoutly and 
 drag us with the canoe over the floods before we 
 got them in. It is in the eddy coves, under the 
 points and turnings cf the river, v/here the fur- 
 face of the waters for fome acres is covered wifh 
 the leaves of the Nymphea, Piftia, and other am- 
 phibious herbs and grafs, v/here the haunts and re- 
 treats of this famous iifli are, as well as others of va- 
 rious tribes. 
 
 Obferving a fifliing canoe of Indians turning a 
 point below and coming towards us, who hailed us, 
 wc waited their coming up; they were cheerful 
 merry fellows, and inliiied on our accepting of part 
 of their fifh ; they having a greater quantity and va- 
 riety, efpecially of the bream, my favourite fifh, we 
 exchanged fome of our trout with them. 
 
 Our chief being engaged with the chiefs of the 
 town in commercial concerns, and others of our. 
 company out in the fortfts with the Indians, hunt- 
 ing 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 227 
 
 ing up hoifes belonging to the trading company ; 
 the young interpreter, my companion, who was 
 obliging to me, and whom our chief previoufly re- 
 commended to me as an allociate, propoied to me 
 another little voyage down the river. This w^as 
 agreeable to me, being defirous of increafing my 
 obfervations during our continuance at '1 ahha- 
 fochte : as when the White King Ihould return to 
 town (which was expected every hour (we iiitended 
 after audience and treaty to leave them and encamp 
 in the forells, about iifteen miles diltance ana nearer 
 the range of their horfcs. 
 
 Having fupplied ourfclves with ammunition and 
 provilion, we fet off in the cool of the morning, and 
 defcended pleafantly, riding on the cry Hal fiood, 
 vhich flows down with an cafy, gentle, yet a<flive 
 current, rolling over its lilvery bed. How abun- 
 dantly are the waters rcpleniflied with inhabitants 1 
 the ftream almoft as tranfparent as the air we breathe; 
 there is nothing done in fecret except on i's green, 
 flowery verges, where nature, at the command of 
 the Supreme Creator, hath fpvead a mantle, a^ a 
 covering and retreat at faitable and convenient times, 
 but by no means a fecure refuge from the voracious 
 enemy and purfuer. 
 
 Behold the watery nations, in numerous bands 
 roving to and fro, amidfl: each other ; here they feem 
 all at peace ; though, incredible to relate ! but a few 
 yards off, near the verge of the green mantled Ihore 
 there is eternal war, or rather flaughter. Near the 
 banks the waters become turbid, from fubffances 
 gradually diverging from each fide of the fwift chan- 
 nel, and colledions of opaque particles whirled to 
 fliore by the eddies, which aflord a kind of nurfery for 
 
 0^2 young 
 
228 TRAVELS IN 
 
 young fry, and its lllmy bed is a prolific nidus for 
 generating and rearing of infinite tribes and fwarms 
 of amphibious infecls, ■« liich are the food of young 
 fifh, who irx their turn become a prey to the older. 
 Yet when thofe different tribes of fifh are in the 
 tranfparent channel, their very nature feems abfo- 
 lately changed ; for here i. neither dcfire to dellroy 
 riOr perfecute, but all feems peace and frindfhip. 
 Do they agree on a truce, a fufpenfion ot hodilities ? 
 or by fome :ecret divine influence, is defne taken 
 aTV'ay ? or thev are otherwife rendered incapable of 
 purfuing each other to deftrudion ? 
 
 About noon we approached the admirable Manatc 
 Spring, three or four miles down the river. This 
 charming nyniphaEum is the product of primitive 
 nature, not to be imitated, much lefs equalled, by the 
 united effort of human power and ingenuity ! As we 
 approach it by water, the mind of the inquiring 
 traveller is previoufly entertained, and gradually 
 led on to greater difcovery ; firR by a view of the 
 fublime dark grove, lifted up on fhore, by a range 
 or curved chain of hills, at a fmall diflance from the 
 lively green verge of the river, on the eaft banks ; 
 as we gently defcend floating fields of the Nymphijea 
 nelumbo, interfered with villas of the yellow green 
 Piftia ftratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of the 
 river oppofite the circular woodland hills. 
 
 It is amazing and almofh incredible, what troops 
 and bands of fifii and other watery inhabitants arc 
 now in fight, all peaceable ; and in what variety of 
 gay colours and forms, continually afccnding ard 
 defcending, roving and figuring amongft one ano- 
 ther, yet every tribe aflbciating feparately. We 
 now afcended the cryflal flream ; the current fwift ; 
 
 we 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 229 
 
 we -en tiered the grand fountain, the expanfive cir- 
 cular bafon, the fource of which arifes from under 
 the hafes of the high woodland hills, nearly half en- 
 circling it. The ebullition is aftoniiliing, and conti- 
 nual, though its greateft force of fury intermits, re- 
 gularly, for the fpace of thirty feconds of time : the 
 •waters appear of a lucid fea green colour, in fome 
 meafure owing to the refle(ftion of the leaves above : 
 the eVullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vafl 
 ragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a great 
 depth below the common furface of the bafon, throw- 
 ing up fmall particjes or pieces of white fhelk, 
 which fubfide with the w^aters at the moment of 
 intermilFion, gently fettling down round about the 
 orifice, forming a vafl funnel. At thofe moments, 
 when the w^aters rufh upwards, the furface of the 
 bafon immediately over the orifice is greatly fwollen 
 or raifed a conllderable height ; and then it is 
 impoflible to keep the boat or any other floating 
 veflel over the fountain ; but the ebullition quickly 
 fubfules ; yet, before the furface becomes quite even, 
 the fountain vomits up the waters again, and fo on 
 perpetually. The bafoii is generally circular, about 
 lifty yards over ; and the perpetual flream from it 
 into the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, and 
 ten or twelve feet in depth ; the bafon and dream 
 continually peopled with prodigious numbers and 
 variety of filh and other animals ; as the alligator, 
 and the manate * or fea cow, in the winter feafon. 
 Part of a fkeleton of one, which the Indians had killed 
 lait winter, lay upon the banks of the fpring : the 
 grinding teeth were about an inch in diameter ; the 
 ribs eighteen inches in length, ?nd two inches and an 
 half in ihicknefs, bending witli a gentle curve. This 
 bone is efleemed equal to ivcry. The flefh of this 
 
 * Trichscus minatus. '>a Cow, 
 
 creature 
 
23© TRAVELS IN 
 
 creature is counted wholefome and pleafant food ; 
 the Indians call them by a name which fignifies the 
 big beaver. My companion, who was a trader in 
 Taiahafochte laft winter, faw three of them at one 
 time in this fpring : they feed chiefly on aquatic 
 grafs and weeds. The giound round about the head 
 of the bafon is generally level, for the diitance of 
 a few yards ; then gradually afcends, forming mode- 
 rately high hills: the foil at top is a light, grayiih, 
 fandy mould, which continues fome feet in depth, 
 lying on a ftratum of yellowifh clay, then clay and 
 gravel, then fand, and fo on, ftratum upon ftratum, 
 down to the general foundation of teftaceous rocks. 
 In other places a deep ftratum of whitifli, chalky 
 limeftcne. The vegetable productions which cover 
 and ornament thofe eminences, are generally Live 
 Oaks, Magnolia grandiflora, in the Creek tongue, 
 Tolo-chlucco, which fignifies the Big Bay, Laurus 
 Borbonia or Red Bay, in the Creek tongue, Eto- 
 jnico, that is King's tree, Olea Americana and Li- 
 quidambar, with other trees, fhrubs, and herbace- 
 ous plants common in Eaft Florida. 
 
 The hills and groves environing this admirable 
 fountain, affording amufing fubjedls of inquiry, oc- 
 cafioned my ftay here a great part of the day ; and 
 towards evening we returned to the town. 
 
 Next day, early in the morning, we croffed the 
 river, landing on the other ftiore oppofite the tovv^n, 
 fvvimming our horfes by the fide of the canoe, each 
 of us holding his horfe by the bridle whilli an Indian 
 paddled us over. After croiTmg, v/e ftruck off 
 from the river into the forefts, fometimes falling 
 into, and keeping for a time, the ancient Spanifh 
 high road to Penfacola, now almoft obliterated : we 
 paffed four or five miles through old Spanifh fields. 
 
 There 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 23I 
 
 There are to be feen plain marks or vefliges of 
 the old Spanifh plantations and dwellings ; as fence 
 polls and wooden pillars of their houfes, ditches, and 
 even corn ridges and Batata hills. From the In- 
 dian accounts, the Spaniards had here a rich well 
 cultivated and populous fettlement, and a ftrong 
 fortified pod, as they likewife had at the favanna 
 and fields of Capola ; but either of them far infe- 
 rior to one they had fomc miles farther fouth-wefl 
 towards the Apalachuchla River, now called the 
 Apalachcan Old Fields, where yet remain vaft works 
 and buildings, as fortifications, temples, fome brafs 
 cannon, mortars, heavy church bells, &c. 
 
 The fame groups of whitifh teftaceous rocks and 
 circular finks, with natural wells, make their ap- 
 pearance in thefe groves and fields, as obfervcd on 
 the fide of the river oppofite to Capola ; and the 
 fame trees, llirubs, and herbage without variation. 
 Having palled five or fix miles through thefe ancient 
 fields and groves, the fcene fuddenly changes, after 
 riding through a high forefi: of Oak, Magnolia, 
 Fraxinus, Liquidambar, Fagus fylvatica, Sec. 
 
 Now at once opens to view, perhaps, the mod 
 extenfive Cane-break * that is to be i'cen on the face 
 oi- the whole earth; right forward, about fouth- 
 weft, there appears no bound but the fkies, the 
 level plain, like the ocean, uniting with the firma- 
 ment, and on the right and left hand, dark fliaded 
 groves, old fields, and high forefts, fuch as we 
 had lately paficd through. 
 
 The alternate bold promontories and mifly points 
 advancing and retiring, at length, as it were, iufenfi- 
 
 f Cane meadows, h calltd by the inhabitants cf Carojiua, <Scc, 
 
 biy 
 
232 TRAVELS IN 
 
 bly vanifhing from figlit, like the two points of a 
 crefcent, foftly touching the horizon, rcprefent the 
 molt magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps in 
 the whole world. The ground defcends gently from 
 the groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forming 
 a delightful green graffy lawn. The Canes are 
 ten or tv/elvc feet in he'ght, and as thick as an or- 
 dinary walking ftalf; they grow fo clofe together, 
 there is no penetrating them without previouily cut- 
 ting a road. We came up to this vaft plain where 
 the ancient Spaiiifli highway crofTes it to Penfacola : 
 there vet remain plain veiiiy:es of the 2;rand caufe- 
 wa-y, Avhich is open like a magnificent avenue, and the 
 Indians have a bad road or pathway on it. The 
 ground or foil of the plain is a perfe6lly black, rich, 
 foapy earth, like a ftiif clay or marie, wet and boggy 
 near the flipre, but, further in, firm and hard enough, 
 in the fummer feafon, but wet and in fome places 
 under vater during the winter. 
 
 This vaPc plain, together with the foreifs conti- 
 guous to it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who are 
 lovereigns of thefe realms) to be in poll'eflion and 
 under the culture of indultriuus planters and me- 
 chanics, would in a little time exhibit other fcenes 
 than it does at prefent, delightful as it is ; for by 
 the arts of agriculture and commerce, almofl every 
 defirable thing in life might be produced and made 
 plentiful here, and thereby eftablifh a rich, popu- 
 lous, and delightful region ; as this foil and climate 
 appears to be of a nature favourable for the pro- 
 dudion of almofl all the fruits of the earth, as Corn*, 
 Rice, Indigo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Cochi- 
 neal, and all the varieties of efculent vegetables ; 
 gnd I fuppofe no part of the earth uiibrds fuch end- 
 
 * Zca, 
 
 lefs 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 233 
 
 Ids range and exuberant pafture for cattle, deer, 
 iliccp, <?cc. : the waters everywhere, even in the 
 holes in the earth, abound vith varieties oi excellent 
 fiih ; and the foreds and nr.tive meauows with wild 
 game, as bear, deer, turkeys, quail, and in the win- 
 ter feafon geefe, ducks, and other f-jwl : ajid lying 
 contiguous to one oF the moll b'^auLiful, i:avigablc 
 rivers in the world, and not more than thirty miles 
 jfrom St. Mark's on the great bay of Mexico, is molt 
 conveniently fituated for the Weft India trade and 
 Xhe commerce of all the world. 
 
 After indulging my imagination i:i the contem- 
 plation of thefe grand diverfified fcenes, we turned 
 to the right hand, riding over the charming green 
 terrace dividing the forefts from the plains, and then 
 entering the groves again, continued eight or nine 
 miles up the river, four or five miles dilfance from 
 its banks ; having continually in view, on one fide 
 or other, expanfive green fields, groves, and hicrh 
 forefts ; the meadows glittering with diitant lakes 
 and ponds, alive with cattle, deer, and turkeys, and 
 frequently prefenting to view remains of ancient 
 Spanifli plantations. At length, towards cvenino-, 
 we turned about, and came within fight of the river 
 where falling on the Indian trading path, we conti- 
 nued along it to the landing-place oppolite the town, 
 when hallooing and difcharging our pieces, an Indian 
 with a canoe came prcl'ently over, and condudcd us 
 to the town before dark. 
 
 On our anival at the trading houfe, our chief 
 was vilited by the head men of the town, when 
 inOantly the White King's , arrival in town wa* 
 announced : a mellenger had before been lent in to 
 prepare a fcalL the king and his retinue havino- 
 killed fevcral bears. A fire was now kindled in the 
 
 ar2a 
 
234 
 
 Travels in 
 
 area of the public fquare ; the royal flandard was 
 difplayed, and the drum beat to give notice lo the 
 town of the royal feaft. 
 
 The ribs and the choice pieces of the three great 
 fat bears already well barbe-.iied or broiled, were 
 brought to the banquetting houfe in the fqiiaie, with 
 hot bread ; and honeyed water for drink. 
 
 When the feaft was over in the fquare (where 
 only the chiefs and warriors were admitted, with 
 the white people, the chief prieft, attended by 
 Haves, came with bafliets and carried off the re- 
 mainder of the viduals, &c. which was diftributed 
 nmongft the families of the town. The king then 
 withdrew, repairing to the council-houfe in the 
 fquare, v/hither the chiefs and warriors, old and 
 young, and iuch of the whites as chofe, repaired 
 alfo ; the king, war chief, and feveral ancient chiefs 
 and warriors were feated on the royal cabins ; the 
 reft of the head men and warriors, old and young, 
 fat on the cabins on the right hand of the king's : 
 the cabins or feats on the left, and on the fame ele- 
 vation, are always afligned for the white people, 
 Indians of oiher towns, and fuch of their own people 
 as choofe. 
 
 Our chief, with the reft of the white people in 
 town, took their feats according to order : tobacco 
 and pipes were brought ; the calumet was lighted and 
 fmoaked, circulating according to the ufud forms 
 and ceremony ; and afterwards black diink con- 
 clude the feaft. The king converfed, drank caf- 
 fme, and afibciated familiarly with his people and 
 with us. 
 
 After the public entertainment was over, the 
 young people began their mufic and dancing in the 
 
 fquare, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 •JD 
 
 fquare, whither the young of both fexes repaired, as 
 v/ell a;? the old and middle aged : this frolick conti- 
 nued all night. 
 
 The White King of Talahafochte is a middle aged 
 man, of moderate flature ; and though of a lofty and 
 majellic countenance and deportment, yet I am con- 
 vinced this dignity, which really I'eems graceful, is 
 not the effeft of vain fupercilious pride, for his fmil- 
 ing countenance and his cheerful familiarity befpeak 
 magnanimity and benignity. 
 
 Next a council and treaty was held. They rc- 
 quefted to have a trading houfe again eftablifhed in 
 the town, afluring us that every pollible means fhould 
 conflantly be purfued to prevent any difturbancc in 
 future on their part ; they informed us that the mur- 
 derers of M'Gee * and his afibciates were to be put 
 to death, that two of them were already fhot, and 
 they were in purfuit of the other. 
 
 Our chief trader in anfwer informed them, that 
 the re-eflablifliment of friendiliip and trade was the 
 chief objed of his vifit, and that he was happy to 
 find his old friends of lalahafochte in the fame good 
 difpofition, as they ever were towards him and the 
 white people ; tliat it was his wifli to trade with 
 them, and that he was now come to colletSl his pack- 
 horfes to bring them goods. The king and the 
 chiefs having been already acquainted with my bu- 
 fmcfs and pr.rfuits aniongft them, received me very 
 kindly J the Idng in particular complimented me, 
 
 • M'Gee v/as the leader of a r-.n-sily of white people from Georgia def- 
 tined acrofs the illhnuis, to the Mobile river : they travelled on horfcback 
 as far as this town, v/herc tl ;y procured Ci.noc5 of the Ir.didns, continuing 
 their travels, defcendinp the nvcr and coaf^.ing the main S. W, ; hut at 
 night, when on fhcre livinting provifiohs, their camp wis farprifed and 
 attacked by a picd:itory band of Indians, who flew M'Gee and the refl of 
 the men, and curried oiTthe piundcr and a vvouian to their towns. 
 
23-6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 faying that I was as one of his own children cr peo- 
 ple, and fliculd be protected accordingly, while I 
 remained with them, adding, " Our whole country 
 is before you, where you may range about at plea- 
 fure, gather phyfic plants and flowers, and every 
 other production :" thus the treaty terminated friend- 
 lily and peaceably. 
 
 Next day early in the morning we left the town 
 axid the river, in order to fix our encampment in 
 the forefts about twelve miles from the river ; our 
 companions with the pack-horfes went a-head to the 
 place of rende^zvous, and our chief conduced me 
 another way to fhow me a very curious place, call- 
 ed the Alligator-Role, which was lately formed by 
 an extraordinary eruption or jet of water. It is 
 one of thofe vail circular finks, -vvhich we beheld 
 almoft every where about us as we traverfed thefe 
 forelts, after we left the Alachua favanna. This 
 remarkable one is on the verge of a fpacious mea- 
 dow, thefurface of the ground round about uneven 
 by means of gentle rifmg knolls : fome detached 
 groups of rocks and large fpreading live oaks fhade 
 it on every fide : it is about fixty yards over, and 
 the furface of the w^ater fix or feven feet below the 
 rim of the funnel or baibn : the v/ater is tranfparent, 
 cool, and pleafant to drink, and well flored with 
 fiih ; a very large alligator at prefcnt is lord or chief; 
 many have been killed here, but the throne is never 
 long vacant, the vaft neighbouring ponds fo abound 
 with them. 
 
 The account that this gentleman, who was an 
 eye-witncfs of the lafi: eruption, gave me of its firft 
 appearance, being very wonderful, I proceed to re- 
 late what he told me whilfl: we were in town, which 
 was confirmed by the Indians, and one or more of 
 
 our 
 
NORtH AMERICA. 237 
 
 otir companions, who alfo faw its progrefs, as well as 
 by my own obfervatlons after I came to the ground. 
 
 This trader being near the place (before it had 
 any vifible eiviftence in its prefent appearance), 
 about three years ago, as he wai5 looking for fome 
 horfes which he expelled to find in thefe parts, 
 on a fudden v/as aftonifl-icd by an inexprelliblc 
 rufliing noif^, like a mighty hurricane or thunder 
 Ilorm ; and looking round, he faw the earth over- 
 flowed by torrents cf water, which came, wave 
 after wave, ruihing down a vale or plain very near 
 him, which it filled with water, and foon began to 
 overwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a 
 terrific noife and tremor of the earth. Recovering 
 from his firft furprife, he immediately refolved to 
 proceed for the place from whence the noife feemed 
 to come ; and foon came in fight of the incompar- 
 able fountain, and fiuv, with amazement, the floods 
 rufliing upwards many feet high, and the expand- 
 ing waters, which prevailed every way, fpread- 
 ing themfelves far and near. He at length conclud- 
 ed (he faid) that the fountains of the deep were 
 again broken up, and that an univerfal deluge had 
 commenced ; and inftantly turned about and fled 
 to alarm the town, about nine miles diflance : but 
 before he could reach it, he met feveral of the 
 inhabitants, who already alarmed by the unufual 
 noife, were hurrying on towards the place ; upon 
 which he returned with the Indians, taking their 
 ftand on an eminence to watch its progrefs and the 
 event. It continued to jet and flow in this manner 
 for feveral days, forming a large, rapid creek or 
 river, defccnding and following the various courfe.^ 
 and windings of the valley, for the diflance of feven 
 or eight miles, emptying itfelf into a vafl: favanna, 
 
 where 
 
238 TRAVELS IN 
 
 where was a lake and fmk which received and gave 
 vent to its waters. 
 
 The fountain, however, gradually ceafed to over- 
 flow, and finally withdrew itfelf beneath the com- 
 mon furface of the earth, leaving this capacious ba- 
 fon of waters, "^hich, though continually near full, 
 hath never fince overflowed. There yet remains, 
 and will, I fuppofe, remain for ages, the dry bed ot 
 the river or canal, generally four, five, and fix feet 
 below the natural furface of the land j the perpendi- 
 cular, ragged banks of which, on each fide, Ihow 
 the different ftrata of the earth ; and at places, where 
 ridges or a fwelling bank crolfed and oppofed its 
 courfe and fury, are vaft heaps of fragments of 
 rocks, white chalk, flones, and pebbles, which were 
 collected and thrown into the lateral vallies, until 
 the main flream prevailed over and forced them 
 afide, overflowing the levels and meadows, for fome 
 niiles diflance from the principal ftream, on either 
 fide. We continued down the great vale, along its 
 banks, quite to the favanna and lake where it vent- 
 ed itfelf, while its ancient fubterranean channel was 
 gradually opening, which, I imagine, from fome hid- 
 den event or caufe had been choaked up, and which, 
 we may fuppofe, was the immediate caufe of the 
 eruption. 
 
 In the evening, having gained our encampment, 
 on a graffy knoll or eminence, under the cover of 
 fpreading oaks, juft by the grotto or fink of the lake, 
 which lay as a fparkling gem on the flowery bo- 
 fom of the ample favanna ; our roving -aflTociates 
 foon came in from the ranging fbrefts. We conti- 
 nued our encampment at this place for feveral days, 
 ranging around the delightful country to a great dif- 
 
 tance, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 239 
 
 tance, every day's excurfion prefenting new fcencs 
 of wonder and delight. 
 
 Early in the morning our chief invited mc with 
 him on a vifit to the town, to take a final leave of" 
 the White King. We were gracioufly received 
 and treated with the utmoll civility and hofpita- 
 lity : there was a noble entertainment and repalt 
 provided againfl our arrival, confiding of bear's ribs, 
 venifon, varieties of fifli, roafted turkies (which 
 they call the white man's difli), hot corn cakes, and 
 a very agreeable, cooling fort of jelly, which they 
 call conte : this is prepared from the root of the 
 China briar (Smilax pfeudo-China ; Sinilax afpera, 
 frudu nigro, radice nodofa, magna, laevi, farinacea; 
 Sloan, torn. i. p. 31. t. 143. f. i. habit. Jamaica, 
 Virginia, Carolina, and Florida) : they chop the 
 roots in pieces, which are afterwards well pounded 
 in a wooden mortar, then being mixed with clean 
 water, in a tray or trough, they llrain it through 
 bafkets ; the fediment, which fettles to the bottom 
 of the fecond velTel, is afterwards dried in the open 
 air : and is then a very fine reddiih flour or meal : a 
 fmall quantity of this mixed with warm water and 
 fweetcncd with honey, when cool, beconies a beau- 
 tiful, delicious jelly, very nourifliing and wholefome. 
 They alfo mix it with fine corn fiour, which being 
 fried in frefii bear's oil makes very good hot cakes 
 or fritters. 
 
 On our taking leave of the king and head men, 
 they entreated our chief to repreient to the w.hite 
 people, their unfeigned defire to bury in oblivion 
 the late breech of amity and intermiliion of com- 
 merce, which they trufted would never be refiefted 
 on the people of Talahafetche ; and, lafUy, that we 
 
 would 
 
 L 
 
240 TRAVELS IN 
 
 would fpeedily return with merchandize as hereto- 
 fore ; all which was cheerfully confented to, afluiinj^ 
 them their wilhes and fentiments fully coincided with 
 ours. 
 
 The chief trader, intending to fliew me fome re- 
 markable barren plains, on our return to our en- 
 campment, about noon we fat off: when we cainc 
 within fight of them, I was flruck with afloniih- 
 ment at their dreary appearance ; the view South- 
 erly feemed endlefs waftes, prefenting rocky, gra- 
 velly and frndy barren plains, producing fcarcely 
 any vegetable fubflances, except a few flirubby 
 ciooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of white 
 rocks, which reprefented ruins of villages, planted 
 over the plains ; with clumps of mean flirubs, which 
 ferved only to perpetuate the perfecuting pgwer 
 and rage of fire, and to teflify the aridity of the 
 foil. 'J'he fhrubs I obferved were chiefly the fol- 
 lov.'ing ; Myrica ccrifera, two or three varieties, one 
 of which is very dwarfifli, the leaves fmall, yet 
 toothed or finuated, of a yellowi^fh green colour, 
 owing to a farinaceous pubefcence or veficula which 
 covers their furfaces ; Piinos, varieties, Andromeda 
 ferruginea, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus fran- 
 gula, Sideroxylon fcricium, Ilex aquifoiium. Ilex 
 inyrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Caffine, and 
 a great variety of ihrub Oaks, evergreen and deci- 
 duous, fome of them fmgularly beautiful ; Cory- 
 pha repens ; with a great variety ol herbage, par- 
 ticularly Cacaha, Prenanthus, Chryfocoma, Ilcli- 
 anthus, Silphium, Lobelia, Giobularia, Hcienium, 
 Polvgala, varieties:, Clinopodium, Cadus, various 
 fpecles, Enphoibia, various fpecies, Afclepias car- 
 nofa, very beautiful and fingular, Sophora, Dlan- 
 tb.us, (Uf'cU^, Slfymhrium, Pedicuiaris, Gerardia, 
 
 Lechea, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 241 
 
 Lechea, Gnaphalium, Smilax farfaparUla, Smilax 
 pumila, Solidago, After, Lupiiius fiiifolius, Galega, 
 Hedyfarum, ^c. with various fpecies of gralVes. 
 But there appeared vaft fpecies of gravel and plains 
 of flat rocks, juP" even with the furrace of the earth, 
 which fecmed entirely deftitute of any vegetation, 
 unlefs we may except i'omc different kinds of moffes 
 of the cruftaceous forts, as lichen, alga, &c. and 
 coralloides. After palling fevcral miles on the 
 borders of thefe deferts, frequently alighting on 
 them for obfervation and making collections, they 
 at length gradually united or joined with infinite 
 favannas and ponds, ihetching beyond the fight 
 foutherly, parallel with the rocky barrens ; being 
 feparated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge of 
 open groves, confifting of low, fpreading Live 
 Oaks, Zanthoxylon, Ilex, Sideroxylon, &c. ; and 
 here and there, ftanding either in groups or alone, the 
 pompous Palm tree, glorioufly ereft or gracefully 
 bowing towards the earth ; exhibiting a moft pleaf- 
 ing contraft and wild Indian fcene of primitive un- 
 modified nature, ample and magnificent. We at 
 length came abreaft of the expanfive, glittering 
 lake, which divided the ample meadows, one end 
 of which flretching towards a verdant eminence, 
 formed a Httle bay, which was partly encircled by 
 groups of white chalky rocks, (haded with Live Oaks, 
 Bays, Zanthoxylon and Palm trees. We turned our 
 horfes to graze in the green lawns, whilft we tra- 
 verfed the groves and meadows. Here the palmated 
 Convolvulus trailed over the rocks, with the He- 
 dera carnofa (fol. quinatis incifo-ferratis, perennen- 
 tibus), and the fantaftic Clitoria, decorating the 
 flirubs with garlands (CUt. caule volubili fol. terna- 
 tis pennatifque, flor. majore cacruleo, vexillo rotun- 
 diore, liiiquis Icngiffimis compreflis). 
 
 R Soon 
 
Zj^2 travels I>J 
 
 Soon after entering the forcfts, we were met in 
 the path by a fmall company of Indians, fmiling 
 and beckoning to us long before we jomed them. 
 This was a family of Talahafochte who had been 
 cut on a hunt, and were returning home loaded 
 with barbecued meat, hides and honey. Their com- 
 pany confifted of the man, his wife and children^ 
 well mounted on fine horfes, with a number of 
 pack-horfes. The man prefently offered us a fawn- 
 Ikin of honey, which we gladly accepted, and at 
 parting I prelented him with fome fifli hooks, few- 
 ing needles, &c, ; for in my travels amongfl: the In- 
 dians, I always furiiifhed myfelf with fuch ufeful 
 and acceptable little articles of light carriage, for 
 prefents. We parted, and before night rejoined 
 our companion at the Long Pond. 
 
 On our return to camp In the evening, we were 
 faluted by a party of young Indian warriors, who 
 had pitched their camp on a green eminence near 
 the lake, and at a fmall diftance from our camp, 
 under a little grove of Oaks and Palms. This 
 company confilled of izYtn young Siminoles, under 
 the conduct of a young prince or chief of Talaha- 
 fochte, a town fouthward in the ifthmus. They were 
 aJl drelfed and painted with fingular elegance, and 
 richly ornamented with fjlver plates, chains, he. 
 after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of 
 feathers on their crefls. On our coming up to 
 them, they arofc and fliook hands ; we alighted and 
 fat a Vkliile with them by their cheerful fire. 
 
 The young prince informed our chief that he 
 was in purfuit of a young fellow, who had fled 
 from the town, carrying off with him one of his fa- 
 vourite young wives or concubines. He faid mer- 
 rily he would have the ears of both of them before 
 
 he 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 243 
 
 he returned. He was rather above the middle fta- 
 ture, and the moft perf'c£l human figure I ever 
 faw ; of an amiable engaging countenance, air and 
 deportment ; free and familiar in convriifation, yet 
 retaining a bt;coming gracefulnefs and aij;nity. \7e 
 arofe, took leave of them and crofled a little vale 
 covered with a charming green turf, already illu- 
 minated by the foft light of the full moon. 
 
 Soon after joining our companions at camp, our 
 neighbours, the prince and his alTociates, paid us a 
 vifit. We treated them with the belt fare we had, 
 having till this time preferved fome of our fpiritu- 
 ous liquors. They left us with perfecl cordiality and 
 cheerfulnefs, wiihing us a good repofe, and retired 
 to their own camp. Having a band of mufic with 
 them, confifling of a drum, flutes, and a rattle 
 gourd, they entertained us during the night with 
 their mufic, vocal and inftrumental. 
 
 There is a languifliing foftnefs and melancholy 
 air in the Indian convivial longs, efpecially of the 
 amorous clafs, irrefiftibly moving, attractive, and 
 exquifitely pleafing, efpecially in thefe foUtary re- 
 celies, when all nature is fi lent. 
 
 Behold how gracious and beneficent fhines the 
 rofeate morn ! Now the fun arifes and fills the plains 
 with light ; his glories appear on the forefis, encom- 
 paffing the meadows, and gild rhe top of the tere- 
 binthine Pine and exalted Palms, now gently ruf- 
 tling by the preflure of the waking breezes : the 
 mufic of the feraphic cranes refounds in the fi-;ies'; 
 in feparate fquadrons they fail, encircling their pre- 
 cinds, flowly defcend beating the denfe air, and 
 alight on the green dewy verge of the expanfive 
 lake J its furface yet finoking with the gray af- 
 
 R 2 cending 
 
244 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cending mifls, which, condcnfed aloft In clouds of 
 vapour, are borne away by the morning breezes, and 
 at laft gradually vanifh on the diftant horizon. AH 
 nature awakes to life and acliviiy. 
 
 The ground, during our progrefs this nrorning, 
 every where about us prefented to view thofe fun- 
 nels, fmks and wells in groups of rocks, amidfl; the 
 groves, as already recited. 
 
 Near our next encampment, one more confpicuous 
 than I had elfewhere obferved prefenting itfelf, I 
 took occalion from this favourable circumftance of 
 cbferving them in all their variety of appearances. 
 Its cuter fuperficial margin was fifty or fixty yards^ 
 over, which equally and uniformly on every fide 
 fioped downwards towards the centre : on one fide 
 of it was a confiderable path-way or road leading 
 down to the water, worn by the frequent refort of 
 wild creatures for drink, when the waters were 
 rifen even or above the rocky bed, but at this time 
 thev were funk many vards below the furface of the 
 earth. We defcended firfl to the bed of rocks, 
 which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, ex- 
 ac"l:ly like a walled well, four, live, or fix feet in di- 
 ameter, and may be compared to cells in an honey- 
 comb, through which appeared the water at bot- 
 tom : many of thcfe were broken or worn one into 
 another, forming one vafl well with uneven walls, 
 confifting of projecting jams, pilaltres, or buttrefles, 
 and excavated femicircular niches, as if a piece 
 were taken out of a honey-comb : the bed of rocks 
 h, from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thicknefs, 
 though not of one Iblid mafs, but of many, gene- 
 rally hoiizontal, laminae, or flrata, of various thick- 
 nefs, from eighteen inches to two or three feet ; 
 which admit water to weep through, trickling down, 
 
 drop 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 24^ 
 
 drop after drop, or chafing each other in winding 
 little rills down to the bottom. One fide of the 
 vafl cool grotto was fo fliattered and broken in, I 
 thought it poffible to defcend down to the water at 
 bottom ; and my companion alluring me that the 
 Indians and traders frequently go down for drink, 
 encouraged me to make the attempt, as he agreed 
 to accompany me. 
 
 Having provided ourfelves with a long fnagged 
 fapling, called an Indian ladder, and each of us a 
 pole, by the affiftance of thefe we both defcended 
 fafely to the bottom, which we found nearly level 
 and not quite covered over with water ; on one fide 
 was a bed of gravel and fragments of rocks or iTones, 
 and on the other a pool of water near two feet deep, 
 which moved with a flow current under the walls on 
 a bed of clay and gravel. 
 
 After our return to the furface of the earth, I 
 again ranged about the groves and grottos, examin- 
 ing a multitude ot them. Being on the margin of 
 one in the open foreit, and obferving fome curious 
 vegetable produdions growing on the fide of the 
 Hoping funnel towards its centre, the furface of the 
 ground covered with grafs and herbage ; unappre- 
 henfive of danger, I defcended precipitately towards 
 the group of fhrubs ; when 1 was furprifed and 
 providentially flopped in my career, at the ground 
 founding hollow under my feet; and obferving 
 chafms thiough the ground, I quickly drew bark, 
 and returning again with a pole with which I beat 
 in the earth, to my aflonifliment and dread ap- 
 peared the mouth of a well through tlie rocks, and 
 I obferved the water gUmmering at the bottom. 
 Being wearied with excurfions, we returned to our 
 pleafant filuation on the yergc of the lawn. 
 
 Next 
 
246 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Next day v/e fct off on our retarn to the lower 
 trading-houfe, propofmg to encamp at a favanna, 
 about twelve miles diilance from this, where we 
 were to halt again and flay a day or two, in order 
 to colled together aiother party of horfes, which 
 had been ftationed about that range. The young 
 wild horfes often breaking from the company, ren^ 
 dered our progrefs flow and troublcfome ; we how- 
 ever arrived at the appointed place long before 
 night. 
 
 1 had an opportunity this day of collecling a va- 
 riety of fpecimens and feeds of vegetables, fome of 
 which appeared new to me, particularly Sophora, 
 Cifrus, Tradefcantia, Hypoxis, latropa, Gerardai, 
 Pedicularis, Mimofa fenfitiva, Helonias, Melan- 
 thlum, Lilium, Aletris, Agave, Cactus, Zamia, 
 Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c. 
 
 Next day, I he people being again engaged In 
 their bufinefs of ranging the forefts and plains, in 
 fcarch of their horfes, 1 accompanied them, and In 
 our rambles we again vifited the great favanna and 
 lake, called the Long Pond : the lake is nearly in 
 the middle of the fpacious lawn, of an oblong form ; 
 above two miles wide and feven in length ; one end 
 approachingthe high green banks adjoining the fo- 
 refts, where there is an (enchanting grove and grot- 
 to of pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes of 
 fifli, continually afccnding and defcending through 
 the clean, white rocks. Hoping from the green 
 verged (hore, by gradual fteps, from fmooth, ^fiat 
 pavements wafhed by the fwelling undulations of 
 the waters. 
 
 Arrived in the evening at camp, where we found 
 the reft of our companions buhly employed in fe- 
 
 curinc; 
 
NORTH AMERICA. £47 
 
 curing the young freakifh horfes. The next day 
 v/as employed in like manner, breaking and tutor- 
 ing the young fteeds to their duty. The day fol« 
 lowing we took a final leave of this land of rhca- 
 dows, lakes, groves and grottos, direding our couris 
 for the trading path. Having traverfed a country, 
 in appearance, little diifering from the region ly- 
 ing upon Little St. Juan, we gained about twelve 
 miles on our way ; and in the evening encamped on 
 a narrow ridge, dividing two favannxs ^frcm each 
 other, near the edge of a deep pond ; here our peo- 
 ple made a large pen or pound to fecure their v.ild 
 horfes during the night. There was a little hom- 
 mock or iflet containing a few acres of high ground, 
 at fome didance from the (liore, in the drowned 
 favanna, almoif every tree of which was loaded with 
 nefls of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba, 
 ar. violacea, ar. ccrulca, ar. ffcllaris crifLita, ar. 
 ftellaris maxima, ar. virefcens, colymbus, tantalus, 
 mergus and others; thefe nefls were all alive with 
 young, generally ahnoll full grown, not yet Hedg- 
 ed, but covered with whitiOi .or .cream coloured 
 foft down. We vifited this bird ifle, and fome of 
 our people taking flicks or poles with ihem, foon 
 beat down, and loaded themfelves with thefe fquabs, 
 and returned to camp ; they were almofl a lump of 
 fat, and made us a rich fupper ; fome we roafted. 
 and made others into a pilloe with rice : mofl o'i 
 them, except the bitterns and tantali, were fo ex- 
 celTiveiy fifhy in tafle and fmelj, I could not reliih 
 ihem. It is incredible what prodigious numbers 
 there were, old and young, on this iittle iflet, and 
 the confufed noife which they kept up continually, 
 the young crying for food inceflantly, even whilft 
 in their throats, and the old alarmed and difpleafed 
 vX our near rrfulcnce, and the depredations wc had 
 
^4^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 made upon them ; their various languages, cries, 
 and fluttering cauled an inexpreflible uproar, like x 
 public fair or market in a populous trading city, 
 when fudde'nly furprifed by lome unexpected cala- 
 mitous event. 
 
 About midnight, having fallen afleep, I was- 
 awakened and greatly furprifed at finding moft of 
 my companions up in arms, and furioufly engaged 
 with a large alligator but a few yards from me. 
 One of our company, it feems, awoke in the 
 night, and perceived the monfter within a few 
 paces of the camp, when giving the alarm to the 
 red, they readily came to his altiftance, for It was 
 a rare piece of fport. Some took fire-brands and 
 call them at his head, whilft others formed javelins 
 of faplins, pointed and hardened with fire ; thefe 
 they thruft down his throat into his bowels, which 
 caufed the monfter to roar and bellow hideoufly y 
 but his llrength and fury were fo great, that he eafily 
 wrenched or twilled them out of their hands, and 
 wielding and brandifhing them about, kept his ene- 
 mies at a diftance for a tirae. Some were for put- 
 ting an end to his life and fufferings with a rifle 
 ball, but the majority thought this would too foon 
 deprive them of the diverfion and pleafure of ex- 
 ercifmg their various inventions of torture : they 
 at length however grew tired, and agreed in one 
 opinion, that he had fuffered fufficiently ;. and put 
 an end to his exiftence. This crocodile was about 
 twelve feet in length : we fuppoied that he had 
 been allured by the filhy fcent of our birds, and 
 encouraged to undertake and purfue this hazardous 
 adventure which cod him his life. This, with 
 other inftances already recited, may be fufficient to 
 prove the intrepidity and fubtilty of thofe voracious, 
 jormidable animals. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 14^ 
 
 We fat off early next morning, and foon after 
 falling into the trading path, accompliflied about 
 twenty miles of our journey ; and in the evening 
 encamped as ufual, near the banks of favannas and 
 ponds, for the benefit of water and accommodations 
 of pafture for our creatures. Next day we pafled 
 over part of the great and beautiful Alachua Savan- 
 na, whofe exuberant green meadows, with the fer- 
 tile hills which immediately encircle it, would, if 
 peopled and cultivated after the manner of the ci- 
 vilized countries of Europe, without crowding or 
 inconmioding families, at a moderate eftimation, 
 accommodate in the happieft manner above one 
 hundred rhoufand human inhabitants, befides mil- 
 lions of domeitic animals ; and I make no doubt 
 this place will at fome futuie day be one of the moll 
 populous and delightful feats on earth. 
 
 We came to camp in the evening, on the banks 
 of a creek but a few miles diflance from Cufcowil- 
 la ; and two days more moderate travelling brought 
 \is fafe back again to the lower trading-houfe, on 
 St. Juan, having been bleffcd with health and a 
 profpcrous journey. 
 
 On my arrival at the (lores, I was happy to find 
 all well as we had left them ; and our bringing with 
 us friendly talks from the Siminolc towns, and the 
 Nation likewife, completed the hope^ and wifhes 
 of the ti ading company, with relpect to their com- 
 mercial concerns with the Indians, which, as the 
 cheering hght of the fun-beams after a dark tem- 
 peftuous night, difiufcd joy and conviviality through- 
 out the little community, where were a number of 
 men with their families, who had been put out of 
 employment and fubfidence, anxioufly waiting the 
 happv event. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ZL^e TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. viir. 
 
 As a loading could not be procured until late in 
 the autumn, for the fchooner that was to return to 
 Georgia, this circumftance allowed me time and 
 ppportiinity to continue my excurfions in this land 
 of flowers, as well as at the fame tirne to augment 
 my colle(5lions of feeds, growing roots, &c. 
 
 I refolved upon another"^ li'tle voyage up the 
 river; and after reding a tew days and refitting my 
 bark, 1 got on board the necelfary (lores, and fur- 
 nifhing myfelf with boxes to plant roots in, with 
 my fuzee, ammunition and fifliing tackle, I fet fail, 
 and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Next 
 morning, being moderately calm and ferene, I fet 
 fail with a gentle leading breeze, which delight7 
 fully wafted me acrofs the lake to the wefl coafl, 
 landing on an airy, fandy beach, a pleafant, cool 
 fituation, where I paiTed the night, but not without 
 frequent attacks from the mufquitoes ;, and next day 
 vifited the Great Springs, where I remained until 
 the fucceeding day, increafing my colie(5lions of fpe- 
 cimens, feeds and roots ; and then recroffed the lake- 
 to the eaftern fiiore. This fliore is generally bolder 
 and more rocky than the Vv^eflern, it being expofed 
 to the lafii of the furf, occafioned by the W. and 
 N. W. winds, which are briik and conftanc from 
 nine or ten o'clock in the morning till towards mid^ 
 night, almofl: the year round ; though the S. winds 
 are'confiderable in the fpring, and by fliort inter- 
 vals during the fummer and v^^inter ; and the N. E. 
 though fometimes very violent in ihc fpring and 
 
 autumn. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 35I 
 
 autumn, does not continue long. The day was 
 employed in coalUng llo'.vly, and making collec- 
 tions. In the evening I made a harbour under co- 
 ver of a long point of flat rocks, which defended 
 the mole from the lurf. Having fafely moored my 
 bark, and chofcn my camping ground jufl by, dur- 
 ing the fme evening I reconnoitred the adjacent 
 groves and lawns. Here is a deferted plantation, 
 the property of Dr. Stork, where he once refided. 
 I obferved many lovely llirubs and plants in the old 
 fields and Orange groves, particularly feveral fpe- 
 cies of Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former having 
 very large, white, fweet fcented flowers : they are 
 great ramblers, climbing and drolling on the flirubs 
 and hedges. Next morning 1 re-embarked, and 
 continued traverfmg the bold coaft north-eafbward, 
 and fearching the fliorcs at all convenient landings, 
 where I was amply rewarded for my afiiduity in the 
 fociety of beauties in the blooming realms of Flo- 
 rida. Came to again, at an old deferted planta- 
 tion, the property of a Britifii gentleman, but feme 
 years fmce vacated. A very fpacious frame build- 
 ing was fettling to the ground and mouldering to 
 earth. Here are very extenfive old helds, where 
 were growing the Well-Indian or perennial Cotton 
 and Indigo, which had been cultivated here, and 
 fome icattered remains of the ancient orange groves, 
 which had been left landing at the clearing of the 
 plantation. 
 
 I have often been afFecled with extreme regret, 
 at beholding the dellrudion and devaflaiion which 
 has been committed or indifcreetly exercifed on 
 thofe extenfive fruitful Orange groves, on the banks 
 of St. juan, by the ne\v planters under the Britifli 
 government, fome hundred acres of which, at a 
 
 fmgle 
 
45* TRAVELS IN 
 
 fmgle plantation, have been entirely deftroyed, to 
 make room for the indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas, 
 &c. or, as they fay, to extirpate the mufquitoes, al- 
 ledging that groves near the dwellings are haunts 
 and Ihelters for thofe perfecuting infefts. Some plan- 
 tations have not a fingle tree ftanding ; and where 
 any have been left, it is only a fmall copp'^e or clump, 
 nakedly expofed and deftitute ; perhay/^ nfty or an 
 hundred trees (landing near the dwelling-houfe, hav- 
 ing no lofty cool grove of expanfive Live Oaks, 
 Laurel Magnolias, and Palms, to fliade and protect 
 them, exhibiting a mournful, fallow countenance ; 
 their native perfeclly formed and gloffy green fo- 
 liage as if violated, defaced and torn to pieces by 
 the bleak winds, fcorched by the burning fun-beams 
 in fummer, and chilled by the winter frofls. 
 
 In the evening I took up my quarters in the beau- 
 tiful ifle in fight of Mount Royal. Next day, af- 
 ter coUecling what was new and worthy of particu- 
 lar notice, I fet fail again, and called by the way at 
 Mount Royal. In the evening arrived fafe at the 
 ftores, bringing along with me valuable colledions. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 253 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 At the trading-houfe I found a very large party 
 of the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, jult 
 without the pallifadoes. This was a predatory band 
 of the Siminoles, confifting of about forty warriors 
 deflined againlt the Chaftaws of Weft Florida. They 
 had juft arrived here from St. Auf^uftine, where 
 they had been with a large troop of horfes for fale, 
 and furnifhed themfelves with a very liberal fup- 
 ply of fpirituous liquors, about twenty kegs, each 
 containing five gallons. 
 
 Thefe fons of Mars had the continence and for- 
 titude to withftand the temptation of even tafting 
 a drop of it until their arrival here, where they 
 purpofed to fupply themfelves with neceflary arti- 
 cles to equip them for the expedition, and pro- 
 ceed on dircdly ; but here meeting with our young 
 traders and pack-horfe men, they were foon pre- 
 vailed on to broach their beloved nedar ; which in 
 the end caufed fome difturbance, and the confump- 
 tion of moft of their liquor ; for after they had once 
 got a fmack of it, ihcy never were fober for ten 
 days, and by that time there was but little left. 
 
 In a few days this feflival exhibited one of the 
 moft ludicrous bacchanalian fcenes that is pollible 
 to be conceived. White and red men and wo- 
 men without diftindion, palled the day merrily with 
 thefe jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in con- 
 vivial fongs, dances, and facritices to Venus, as long 
 as they could ftand or move ; for in thefe frolicks 
 both fexes take fuch liberties with each other, and 
 
 ad. 
 
1i^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ad, without conflraint or fliame, fuch fcenes as the/ 
 would abhor when fober or in their fenfes ; and 
 would endanger their ears and even their lives : 
 but at laft their liquor running low, and being 
 mod of them fick through intoxication, they be- 
 came more fober ; and now the dejedied lifelefs 
 fots would pawn, every thing they were in pof- 
 feffion of, for a mouthful of fpirits to fettle their 
 iiomachs, as they termed it. This was the time 
 for the wenches to make their market, as they hc-d 
 the fortitude and fubtilty by diffimulation and arti- 
 fice to fave their fliare of the liquor during the 
 frolick, and that by a very fmgular ftratagem j for, 
 at thefe riots, every fellow who joins in the club, 
 has his own quart bottle of rum in his hand, hold- 
 ing it by the neck fo fure, that he never loofes hold 
 of it day or night, drunk or fober, as long as the 
 frolick continues ; and with this, his beloved friend, 
 he roves about continually, fmging, roaring, and 
 reeling to and fro, either alone, or arm in arm with 
 a brother toper, prefenting his bottle to every one, 
 oflering a drink ; and is fure to meet his beloved 
 female if he can, whom he complaifantly begs to 
 drink with him. But the modelf fair, veiling her 
 face in a mantle, refufes, at the beginning of the 
 frolick ; but he prelfes and at laft infills. She being 
 furniflied with an empty bottle, concealed in her 
 mantle, at lad confents, and taking a good long 
 draught, blullics, drops her pretty face on her bo- 
 fom, and artfully difcharges the rum into her bot- 
 tle, and by repeating this artifice foon fills it : 
 this (he privately conveys to her fecret (lore, and 
 then returns to the jovial game, and fo on during 
 the feftival ; and when the comic farce is over, 
 the wench retails this precious cordial to them at her 
 own price. 
 
 There 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 2^^ 
 
 There were a few of the chiefs, particularly the 
 Long Warrior their leader, who had the prudence 
 and fortitude to refifl the aUuring temptation during 
 the whole farce ; but though he was a povVcrful chief, 
 a king, and a very cunning man, he was not able 
 to controul thefe madmen, althoug^h he was ac- 
 knowledged by the Indians to have communion 
 with powerful invifible beings or fpirits, and on 
 that account efteemed worthy of homage and great 
 refpect. 
 
 After the Indians became fober, they began to 
 prepare for their departure. In the morning early 
 the Long Warrior and chiefs fent a melfenger to 
 Mr. M'Latche, defning to have a talk with him 
 upon matters of moment : accordingly, about noon 
 they arrived. The conference was held in the piazza 
 of the council houfe : the Long Warrior and chiefs 
 who attended him, took their feats upon a long 
 bench ad reining the fide or front of the houfe, reach- 
 ing the whole length of it, on one hand ; and the 
 principal white traders on the other, all on the 
 fame feat. I was ailmitted at this conference ; Mr. 
 M'Latche and the Long Warrior fat next to each 
 other ; my late companion, the old trader, and my- 
 felf fat next to him. 
 
 The Long Wanior fpake, faying, that he and 
 his companions were going to light their ene- 
 mies the Chadaws ; and that fome of his affociates 
 being in want of blankets, fliirts, and fome other 
 articl'-S, they declined fupplyiug themfelves v.ith 
 them at St. Augufline, becaufe they had rather. flick 
 clofe to tiieir old friend Mr. Spalding, and bring 
 their bucklkins, furs, and other produce of their 
 country (which they knew were acceptable) to 
 
25^ TRAVLLS hV 
 
 his trading houfe, to purchafe what they wanted. 
 But not having the {kins, &c. with them to pay for 
 fuch things as they had occafion for, they doubt- 
 ed not, but that on their return, they fliould bring 
 with them fujflicient not only to pay their debts, 
 about to be contraded, but be able to make other 
 conhderable purchafes, as the principal object of 
 this expedition was hunting on the plentiful borders 
 of the Chadaws. Mr. M'Latche hefitating, and 
 expreffing fome diflatisfadion at his requefl ; par- 
 ticularly at the length of time and great uncer- 
 tainty of obtaining pay for the goods ; and moreover 
 his being only an agent for Meilrs. Spalding and Co. 
 and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of the 
 Long Warrior's demands ; required the company's 
 aflent and directions before he could comply with 
 their requeft. 
 
 This anfwer difpleafed the Indian chief, and I 
 obferved great agitation and tumult in his paffions, 
 from his adions, hurry and rapidity of fpeech and 
 expreilion. The old interpreter who fat by alked 
 me if I fully underftood the debate ; I anfwered that 
 I apprehended the Long Warrior was difpleafed ; 
 he told me he was fo, and then recapitulated what 
 had been faid refpecting his queftions and Mr. 
 M'Latche's anfwer ; adding, that upon his hefitation 
 he immediately replied, in feeming difguft and 
 great exprelfions of anger, " Do you prefume to 
 refufe me credit ; certainly you know who I am 
 and what power I have : but perhaps ycu do not 
 know, that if the matter required it, and I pleafed, 
 I could command and caufe the terrible thun- 
 der * now rolling in the {kies above, to defcend 
 
 * It thundered, lightened, and rained in a violent manner during ihefe I 
 debates. 
 
 Upon 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 257 
 
 Upon your head, in rapid fiery fliafts, and by you 
 proftrate at my feet, and confume your (tores, 
 turning them inttantly into dud and alhes.'* Mr. 
 M'Latche cahnly replied, that he was fully fenn- 
 ble that the Long Warrior was a great mm, a 
 powerful chief of the bands of the refpeftable Si- 
 minolcs, that his name was terrible to his ene- 
 mies, but flill he doubted if any man upon earth, 
 had fuch power, but rather believed that thunder 
 and lightning was under the direction of the Grcut 
 Spirit ; but however, fmce we are not difpofed to 
 deny your power, fupcrnatural influence and inter- 
 courfc with the elements and fpiritual agents, or 
 withhold the refpeft and homage due to fo great a 
 prince of the Slminoles, friends and allies to the 
 white people ; if you think fit now in the prefence 
 of us all here, command and caufe yon terrible 
 thunder with its rapid fiery fliafts, to defcend upon 
 the top of that Live Oak* in front of us, rend it in 
 pieces, fcatter his brawny limbs on the earth and 
 confume them to afnes before our eyes, we will 
 then own your fupernatural power and Bread your 
 difpleafure. 
 
 After fome filence the prince became more calm 
 and eafy, and returned for anfwer, that recollectini^ 
 the former friendfliip and good underltanding, which 
 had ever fubfifted betwixt the white people and red 
 people of the Slminole bands, and in particular, the 
 many acts ol: friendfliip and kindnefs received from 
 Mr. M'Latche, he would overlook this affront ; he 
 acknovvledged his reafoning and expoftulations to be 
 juft andmanly, that he lliould fupprefs his refentment, 
 and withhold his power and vengeance at prefen'^. 
 Mr. M'Latche concluded by faying, that he was not 
 
 • A large ancient Live Oik ftood in the yard about fifty yards diilaace. 
 
 S in 
 
3.58 TRAVELS IN 
 
 in the Icafl intimidated by his threats of deftroying 
 him with thunder and lightning, neither was he 
 dirpofed in any manner to difpleafe the Siminoles, 
 and fl-jould certainly comply with his requifitions, 
 as far as he could proceed without the advice and 
 directions of the company ; and finally agreed to 
 jupply him and his followers with fuch things as they 
 ihood moft in need of, fuch as fliirts, blankets and 
 Ibme paints, one half to be paid for direQly, and 
 the remainder to ftand on credit until their return 
 from the expedition. This determination entirely 
 fatisfied the Indians. We broke up the confer- 
 ence in perfect amity and good humour, and they 
 returned to their camp, and in the evening, ratified 
 it with feafling and dancing, which continued all 
 next day with tolerable decorum. An occurrence 
 liappened this day, by which I had an opportunity 
 of obferving their extraordinary veneration or dread 
 of the rattle fnake. 1 was in the forenoon bufy in 
 my apartment in the council-houfe, drawing fome 
 curious flowers; when, on a fudden, my attention 
 was taken (5ft' by a tumult v.ithout, at the Indian 
 camp. I ftepped to the door opening to the piazza, 
 \vhere I met my friend the old interpreter, who 
 informed me that there was a very large rattle 
 fnake in the Indian camp, which had taken poffefiion 
 of it, having driven the men, ^^'omen and children 
 out, and he heard them faying that they would fend 
 for PuC'Puggy (for that was the name which they 
 had given me, fignifying the Flower Hunter) to 
 kill him or take him out of their camp. I anfwer- 
 ed, that I defired to have nothing to do with him, 
 •apprehending fom.e difagreeablc confequences ; and 
 defired that the Indians might be acquainted that I 
 "was engaged in bufinefs that required applicatioa 
 and quiet, and was determined to avoid it if 
 
 pofTibfe, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 25$ 
 
 poflible. My old friend turned about to carry my 
 anfwer to the Indians. 1 prefently heard them ap- 
 proaching and calHng for Puc-Puggy. Starting up 
 to efcape ii om their fight by a back door, a par- 
 ty confifling of three young fellows, richly drefled 
 and ornamented, ilepped in, and with a countenance 
 and adion of noble fimplicity, amity and complai- 
 fance, requelled me to accompany them to their 
 encampment. I defired them to excufe me at this 
 time ; they pleaded and entreated me to go witU 
 them, in order to free them from a great rattle 
 fnake which had entered their camp ; that none of 
 them had freedom or courage to expel him ; and 
 underllanding that it was my pieafure to collect all 
 their animals and other natural productions of their 
 land, defircd that I would come with them and take 
 him away, that I was welcome to him. I at length, 
 confented and attended on them to their encamp- 
 ment, where I beheld the Indians greatly difturbed 
 indeed. The men with (licks and tomahawks, and 
 the women and children collected together at a 
 diftance in affright and trepidation, whilit the dread- 
 ed and revered ferpent Icifurely traverfed their 
 camp, vifiting the fire places from one to another, 
 picking up fragments of their provifions and licking 
 their platters. The men gathered around me, ex- 
 citincj me to remove him : beino; armed with a 
 lightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who in- 
 ftantly collected himfelf in a vail coil (their attitude 
 of defence) I call my miffile weapon at him, which 
 luckily taking his head, difpatched him inftanlly, 
 and laid him trembling at my feet. I took out 
 my knife, fevered his head from his body, then turn- 
 ing about, the Indians complimented me with every 
 demonftration of fatisfattion and approbation for 
 my heroifm, and friendfliip for them. 1 carried oif 
 
 S 2 'the 
 
2bo TRAVELS IN 
 
 the head of the ferpent bleeding In my hand as a 
 trophy of vidlory ; and taking out the mortal fangs, 
 depofited them carefully amongfi: my colledions. I 
 had not been long retired to my apartment, before 
 I was again roufed from it by a tumult in the yard ; 
 and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, I ftarted up, 
 when inftantly the old interpreter met me again, 
 and told me the Indians were approaching in order 
 to fcratch me. I afked him for what ? he anfwered 
 for killing the rattle fnake within their camp. 
 Before I could make any reply or effect my efcape, 
 three young fellows fmging, arm in arm, came up 
 *o me. I obferved one of the three was a young 
 prince who had, on my firfl interview with him, de- 
 clared himfelf my friend and protector, when he 
 told me that if ever occafion fhould offer in his pre- 
 fence^ he would riflv his life to defend mine or my 
 property. This young champion flood by his two 
 afibciates, one on each fide of him : the two affeft- 
 ing a countenance and air of difpleafure and impor- 
 tance, inftantly prefenting their fcratching inftru- 
 ments, and flourifliing them, fpoke boldly, and faid 
 that I was too heroic and violent, that it would be 
 good for me to lofe forae of my blood to make m-e 
 more mild and tame, and for that purpofe they were 
 come to fcratch me. They gave me no time to ex- 
 poflulate or reply, but attempted to lay hold on 
 me, which I refifted ; and my friend, the young- 
 prince, interpofed and pufhed them off, faying thai 
 I was a brave warrior and his friend ; that they 
 ihould not infuk me ; when inflantly they altered 
 their countenance and behaviour : they all whooped 
 in chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clapped 
 me on the fhoulder, and laid their hands on their 
 breads in token of fmcere friendfnip, and laughing 
 aloud, laid I was a fmcere friend to the SiminolCvS, 
 
 a. wcr- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. C5l 
 
 a worthy and brave warrior, and that no one (hould 
 hereafter attempt to injure me. They then all three 
 joined arm in arm again and went off, fliouting and 
 proclaiming Puc-Puggy was their friend, kc. Thus 
 it feemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce to 
 fatisfy their people and appeafe the manes * of the 
 dead rattle fnake. 
 
 The next day was employed by the Indians in 
 preparations for their departure, fuch as taking up 
 their goods from the trading houfe, colleding to- 
 gether their horfes, making up their packs, &c. 
 and the evening joyfully fpent in fongs and dances. 
 The fucceeding morning after exhibiting the war 
 farce they decamped, proceeding on their expedi- 
 tion againfl their enemy. 
 
 * Thcfe people never kill the rattle fnake or any other ferpent, faying 
 if they do fo, the fpirir of the killed fnake will excite or influence his 
 living kindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done tp hvp. 
 vhcn alive. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
2^2 TRAVELS iX 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 But let us again refume the fubjed of the rat- 
 tle fnake ; a wonderful creature, when we confider 
 his form, nature and difpofition. It is certain 
 that he is capable by a puncture or fcratch of one 
 of his fangs, not only to kill the largefl animal in 
 America, and that in a few minutes time, but to 
 turn the whole body into corruption ; but fuch is 
 the nature of this dreadful reptile, that he cannot 
 run or creep fafter than a man or child can walk, 
 and he is never known to ftrike until he is firft 
 affaulted or fears himfelf in danger, and even then 
 always gives the earlieft warning by the rattles at 
 the extremity of the tail. I have in the courfe of 
 my travels in the Southern Rates (where they are the 
 largeft, mofl numerous and fuppofed to be the mod 
 venemous and vindi£live) ftept unknowingly fo clofe 
 as almofl to touch one of them with my feet, and 
 when I perceived him he was already drawn up in 
 circular coils ready for a blow. But however in-* 
 credible it may appear, the generous, 1 may fay 
 magnanimous creature lay as dill and motionlefs as if 
 inanimate, his head crouched in, his eyes almoft 
 fhut. I precipitately withdrew, unlefs when I have 
 been fo fhocked with furprife and horror as to be in 
 a manner rivetted to the fpot, for a fliort time not 
 having ftrength to go away ; when he often llowly 
 extends himfelf and quietly moves off in a direft 
 line, unlefs purfued, when he erects his tail as far as 
 the rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm by 
 intervals. But if you purfue and overtake him with 
 a fhew of enmity, he initantly throws himfelf into 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 263 
 
 the fpirai coil ; his tail by the rapidity of its mo- 
 tion appears like a vapour, makinf]; a quick tremu- 
 lous found ; his whole body fwells through rage, 
 continually rifing and falling as^a bellows •, his beau- 
 tiful particoloured Ikin becomes fpeckled and rough 
 by dilatation ; his head and neck are flattened, his 
 cheeks fwollen and his lips conllrifted, difcover- 
 ing his mortal fangs ; his eyes red as burning coals, 
 and his brandifliing forked tongue of the colour of 
 the hotted flame, continually menaces death and 
 deflrudion, yet never llrikes unlcfs fure of his 
 mark. 
 
 The rattle fnakc is the largefl: ferpent yet known 
 to exift in North America. I have heard of their 
 having been feen formerly, at the firfl: fettling of 
 Georgia, fevcn, ciglit and even ten feet in length, 
 and fix or eight inches diameter ; but there are none 
 of that fize now to be feen ^ yet I have feen then^ 
 above fix feet in length, and above fix inches in 
 thicknefs, or as Ijirge as a man's leg ; but their ge- 
 neral fize is four, five, and fix feet in ienfrth. 
 They are fuppafed to have tlie power of fafci- 
 nation in an eminent degree, fo as to inthral their 
 prey. It is generally believed rhat they charm 
 birds, rabbits, fquirrels and other animals, and by 
 lledfartly looking at them pofiefs them with infa- 
 tuation : be the caufe what it may, the miferable 
 creatures undoubtedly llrive by every poflible 
 means to cfcapc, but alas ! their endeavours are in 
 vain^ they at lalt lofe the power of refiflance, and 
 flutter or move llowly, but relucl:antly, towards the 
 yawning jaws of their devourers, and creep into 
 their mouths, or lie down and fuffer ^hemfelyes to 
 fee tnkcn and faaliov.ed. 
 
 Since, 
 
264 7RAV]ZLS IN 
 
 Since, within the circle of my acquaintance, I 
 am known to be an advocate or vindicator of the 
 benevolent and peaceable difpofition of animal 
 creation in general,^ not only towards mankind, 
 whom they feem to venerate, but alfo towards one 
 another, except v»here hunger or the rational and 
 necefi'ary provocations of the fenfual appetite inter- 
 fere, I fhall mention a few inftances, amongft 
 many, which T have had an opportunity of remark- 
 ing during my travels, particularly with regard to 
 the animal I have been treating of. I fnall ftiidly 
 confine myfelf to facls. 
 
 When on the fea coaft of Georgia, I confented, 
 with a few friends, to m^ake a party of amufement 
 at fifliing and fowling on Sapello, one of the fea 
 coafl ifiands. We accordingly defcended the Alata- 
 maha, crofled the found and landed on the North 
 end of the ifland, near the inlet, fixing our encamp- 
 ment at a pleafant fitiiation, under the fhade of a 
 grove of Live Oaks and Laurels*, on the high banks 
 of a creek which we afcended, winding through a 
 fait marfh, which had its fource frani a fwamp and 
 favanna in the iiland : our fituatfon elevated and 
 open, commanded a comprehenfive landfcape ; 
 the great ocean, the foaming furf breaking on the 
 fandy beach, the fnowy breakers on the bar, the 
 endlefs chain of ifiands, checkered found and hig^h 
 continent all appearing before us. The diverting 
 toils of the day were not fruitlefs, affording iis op- 
 portunities of furnifhing ourfelves plentifully with a 
 variety of game, fifli and oyllers for our fupper. 
 
 About two hundred yards from our camp was a 
 cool fpring, amidft a grove of the odoriferous My- 
 
 * Afagnolia grandiflora, calkd by the inhabitants the Laurel. 
 
 rica • 
 
NORTH AMERICA. z6$ 
 
 lica : the winding path to this falubrious fountain led 
 through a graffy favanna. I vifited the fpring feve,- 
 ral times in the night, but little did I know, or any 
 of iTiy carelefs drowfy companions, that every 
 time we vifited the fountain we were in imminent 
 danger, as I am going to relate Early in the 
 moDiing, excited by unconquerable third, I arofe 
 and went to the fpring ; and having, thoughtlefs 
 of harm or danger, nearly half pafl the dewy vale, 
 along the ferpcniine foot path, my hafly fteps were 
 fuddcniy ffoppcd by the fight of a hideous ferpent, 
 the formidable ratilc fnake, in a high fpiral coil. 
 Icrniing a circular mould half the height of my 
 knees, within fix inches of the narrow path. As 
 foon as I recovered my fcnfcs and flrcngth from fo 
 fuddcn a furprifc, I ftarted back cut of his reach, 
 Vvhers I ftood to view him : he lay quiet whilft 1 
 furveyed him, appearing no w^ay furprifed or dif- 
 turhed, but kept his half-fhut eyes fixed on me. 
 My imagination and fpirits were in a tumult, almoft 
 equally divided betwixt thankfgiving to the fupreme 
 Creator and preferver, and the dignified nature of 
 the generous though terrible creature, who had fuf- 
 fered us all to pafs many times by him during the 
 night, without injuring us in the leaf!:, although we 
 muil have touched him, or our fleps guided there- 
 from by a fupreme guardian fpirit. I haftened back 
 to acquaint my aflbclatcs, but with a determina- 
 tion to protcO the life of the generous ferpenr. I 
 prefcntly brought my companions to the place, who 
 were, beyond expreflion, furprifed and terrified at 
 the fight of the animal, and in a moment acknow- 
 ledged their cfcnpe from deflru£lion to be miracu- 
 lous ; and I^am proud to aflert, that all of us, except 
 one perfon, agreed to let him lie undillurbed, and 
 
 - that 
 
266 TRAVELS IN 
 
 that pcrfon at length was prevailed upon to faffer 
 liiin to efcape. 
 
 Again, when in my youth, attending my father 
 on a journey to the Catfkill mountains, in the go- 
 vernment at' New-York ; having nearly afcended 
 the peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous in 
 the purfuit of botanical and novel objetls, I had 
 gained the fummit of a fteep rocky precipice, a-head 
 of our guide ; when juft entering a fhady vale, I 
 faw at the root of a fmall fhrub, a fmgular and 
 beautiful appearance, which I remember to have 
 inftantly apprehended to be a large kind of Fungus 
 which we call Jew's ears, and was juft drawing back 
 my foot to kick it over ; when at the inftant, my 
 father being near, cried out, a rattle fnake my 
 fon : and jerked me back, which probably faved my 
 life. 1 had never before feen one. This was of the 
 kind which our guide called a yellow one, it was 
 very beautiful, fpeckled and clouded. My father 
 pleaded for his life, but our guide w^as inexorable, 
 faying he never fpared the life of a rattle fnake, and 
 killed him ; my father took his fl^in and fangs. 
 
 Some years after this, when again in company 
 with my father on a journey into Eaft Florida, on 
 the banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attending 
 th€ congrcfs at a treaty between that government 
 and the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territory 
 from that people to annex to the new government ; 
 after the Indians and a detachment from the gar- 
 rifon of St. Auguftine had arrived and encamped 
 feparately, near the fort, fome days elapfed before 
 the buhnefs of the treaty came on, waiting the ar- 
 rival of a veflel from St. Auguftine, on board of 
 which were the prefents for the Indians. My fa- 
 ther employed this time of Icifure in Httle excur- 
 
 fions 
 
Is'ORTH AMERICA. fiGj 
 
 fions round about the fort ; and one morning, 
 being the day the treaty commenced, I attended 
 him on a botanical excurfion. Some time after we 
 had been rambling in a fwamp about a quarter of 
 a mile from the camp, 1 being a-head a few paces, 
 my father bid me obferve the rattle fnake before 
 and jufl at my feet. 1 flopped and faw the monfler 
 formed in a high fpiral coil, not half his length from 
 my feet : another flcp forward would have put my 
 life in his power, as I mufl: have touched if not 
 {tumbled over him. The fright and perturbation of 
 my fpirits at once excited refentment ;-at that time 
 I WS.S entirely infenfible to gratitude or mercy. I 
 inflantly cut olf a little fapling and foon difpatched 
 him : this ferpent was about fix feet in length, and 
 as thick as an ordinary man's leg. The rencoun- 
 ter deterred us from proceeding on our refearches 
 for that day. So I cut off" a long tough withe or 
 vine, which faftening round the neck of the flain 
 ferpent, I dragged him after me, his fcaly body 
 founding over the ground, and entering the camp 
 with him in triumph, was foon furrounded by the 
 amazed multitude, both Indians and my countr3'- 
 men. The adventure foon reached the ears of the 
 commander, who fent an officer to requefl: that, 
 if the fnake had not bit himfelf, he might have 
 Iiim ftrved up for his dinner. I readily deUvered 
 up the body of the fnake to the cooks, and being 
 that day invited to dine at the governor's table, fav.-- 
 the fnake ferved up in fcveral di flies ; governor 
 Grant being fond of the flefli of the rattle fnake. 
 I tailed of it but could not fwallow it. I, however, 
 was fo;ry after killing the ferpent, when cooly re- 
 toliecling every circumftance. He certainly had it 
 in his power to kill me almcfl inflantly, and I make 
 no doubt but that he was confcious of it. I pro- 
 
 mifed 
 
a6S TRAvm.G in 
 
 mifetl myrdf that I vvciild never again be acceflary 
 to the death of a rattle fnake, which piomife I have 
 invariably kept to. This dreaded animal is eafily 
 killed ; a ftick no thicker than a man's thumb is fuf- 
 ficient to kill the largeft at one ftroke, if well di- 
 redcd, either on the head or acrofs the back ; nor 
 can they make their cfcape by running off, nor in- 
 deed do they attempt it when attacked. 
 
 The moccafm fnake is a large and horrid ferpent 
 to all appearance, and there are very terrifying 
 florles related of him bv the inhabitants of the 
 Southern dates, where they greatly abound, par- 
 ticularly in Eaft Florida : that their bite is always 
 incurable, the flefh for a confiderable fpace about 
 the wound rotting to the bone, which then becomes 
 carious, and a general mortification enfues, which 
 infallibly deftroys the patient ; the members of the 
 body rotting and dying by piecemeal : and that there 
 is no remedy to prevent a lingering miferable death 
 but by immediately cutting away the flefli to the 
 bone?, for fome diftance round about the wound. 
 In fhape and proportion of parts they much refem- 
 ble the rattle fnake, and are marked or clouded 
 much after the fame manner, but the colours more 
 dull and obfcure ; and in their difpofition feem to 
 agree with that dreadful reptile, being flow of pro- 
 grefiion, and throwing themfelves in a fpiral coil 
 ready for a blow when attacked. They have one pe- 
 culiar quality, which is this, when difcovcred, and 
 obferving their enemy to take notice of them, after 
 throwing themfelves in a coil, they gradually raife 
 their upper maiKlible or jaw until it falls back near- 
 ly touching their neck, at the fame time flowly vi- 
 brating their long purpleforked tongue, their crooked 
 poifonous fangs directed right at you, which gives the 
 
 creature 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 26^ 
 
 Cireaturc a mod terrifying appearance. They are 
 from three to four and even five feet in length, and 
 as thick as a man's leg ; they are not numerous, yet 
 too common, and afufficient terror to the miferable 
 naked flaves, who are compelled to labour in the 
 fvvamps and low lands where only they abound. 
 
 I never could find any that knew an inftance of 
 any perfon's lohng their life from the bite of them, 
 only by hearfay. Yet I am convinced it is highly 
 prudent for every peribn to be on their guard 
 againfl them. They appear to be of the viper tribe, 
 from their fwelling of their body and flattening their 
 neck when provoked, and from their large poifon- 
 ous fangs : their head, mouth and eyes are remark- 
 ably large. 
 
 There is another fnake in Carolina and Florida 
 called the moccafm, very different from this ; v/hich 
 is a very beautiful creature, and 1 believe not of 
 a deftrudive or vindictive nature. Thefe when erown 
 to their greateft fize are about five feet In length, 
 and near as thick as a man's arm ; their Ikin Icaly 
 but fmooth and fliining, of a pale grey and fky co- 
 lour ground, uniformly marked with tranfvcrfe un- 
 dulatory ringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown, 
 edged with red or bright Spanifh brown. They ap- 
 pear innocent, very aclive and fwift, endeavouring 
 to efcape from one ; they have no poifonous fangs. 
 Thefe are feen in high foreft -lands, about rotten 
 logs or decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they har- 
 bour about old log buildings. They feem to be a 
 fpecies, if not the very fame make which, in Penfvl- 
 vania and Virginia, is called the wampom fnake ; but 
 here in warmer Southern climes they gi ow to a much 
 larger fize, and from the fame accident their colour 
 may be more variable and deeper. Tliey are by 
 
 the 
 
270 TRAVELS Iti 
 
 the inhabitants affcrted to be dangeroufly venehlouSj 
 the bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learn 
 an inftance of their bite being mortal or attended 
 with any dangerous eonfequence, and have had 
 frequent opportunities of obferving their nature and 
 difpofition, I am inclined to pronounce them an in- 
 recent creature, withrefpeft to mankind. 
 
 The baftard rattle fnake, by fome called ground 
 rattle fnake, is a dangerous little creature : their 
 bite is certainly mortal if prefent medical relief is 
 not adminiftered : they feem to be much of the na- 
 ture of the afp or adder of the old world. 
 
 This little viper is in form and colour much like 
 the rattle fnake, but not fo bright and uniformly 
 marked : their head is broader and fliorter in pro- 
 portion to the other parts of their body : their 
 Rofe prominent and turned upwards : their tail be* 
 comes fuddenly fmall from the vent to the extremi- 
 ty, which terminates with three minute articula- 
 tions, refembling rattles : when irritated they turn 
 up their tail, which vibrates fo quick as to appear 
 like a mill or vapour, but caufes little or no found 
 or noife ; yet it is the common report of the inha- 
 bitants, that they caufe that remarkable vehe- 
 ment noife, fo frequently obferved in forefts in the 
 heat of fummer and autumn, very terrifying to 
 ftrangers, which is, probably, caufed by a very fa- 
 ble fmall infedt of the genus cicadae, or which are 
 called locufts in America ; yet it is poffible I may 
 be miftaken in this conjefture. This dangerous vi- 
 per is from eight to ten inches in length, and of 
 proportionable thickncfs. They are fpiteful, fnap- 
 pifli creatures j and throwing themfelves into a Uttle 
 coii, they fwell and flatten themfelves, continually 
 darting out their head : and they feem capable of 
 
 fpringing 
 
NOaVH AMERICA. 27 1 
 
 lj)ringing beyond their length. They feem deftkute 
 of the pacilic difpofition and magnanimity of the 
 rattle fnake, and are unworthy of an alliance with 
 him. No man ever faves their lives, yet they remain 
 too numerous, even in the oldell fettled parts of the 
 country. 
 
 The green fnake is a beautiful innocent creature : 
 they are from two to three feet in knith, but not 
 fo thick as a perfon's little finger ; of the fineft green 
 colour. They are very abundant, commonly kcR 
 on the limbs of trees and fhrubs : they prey upon 
 infeO:s and reptiles, particularly the little green cha- 
 meleon : and the forked tailed hawk or kite feeds 
 on both of them, fnatching them off the boughs of 
 the trees. 
 
 The ribband fnake is another very beautiful inno- 
 cent ferpent : they are eighteen inches in length, 
 and about the thicknefs of a man's little finger ; the 
 head is very fmall ; the ground colour of a full, 
 clear vermilion, variegated with tranfverfe bars or 
 zones of a dark brown, which people fancy repre- 
 fents a ribband wound round the creature's body : 
 they are altogether inofFenfive to man, and are in a 
 manner domeftic, frequenting old v/ooden buildings, 
 open grounds and plantations. 
 
 The chicken fnake is a large, ftrong and fwift 
 ferpent, fix or feven feet in length, but fcarceiy 
 fo thick as a man's wrift ; they are of a cinereous, 
 earthly celour, and flriped longitudinally with broad 
 lines or lilts, of a dufky or blackifh colour. They 
 are a domedic fnake, haunting about houfes and 
 plantations ; and would be ufeful to man if tamed 
 and properly tutored, being great devourers of rats, 
 
 but 
 
2^2 TRAVELS I IST 
 
 but they are apt to diflurb hen roofls and prey 
 upon chickens. They are as innocent as a worm 
 with refped to venom, are eafily tamed and foon 
 become very famihar. 
 
 The pine or bull fnake is very large and inofFen- 
 •five with refped to mankind, but devours fquirrels, 
 birds, rabbits, and every other creature it can 
 take as food. They are the largeft fnake yet knov/n 
 in North America, except the rattle fnake, and per- 
 haps exceed him in length : they are pied black and 
 white : they utter a terrible loud hifling noife, 
 founding very hollow and like diftant thunder, when 
 irritated, or at the time of incubation, when the 
 males contend with each other for the defired fe- 
 male. Thefe ferpents are alfo called horn fnakes, 
 from their tail terminating with a hard, horny fpur, 
 which rhey vibrate very quick when diflurbed, but 
 they never attempt to ftrike with it ; they have 
 dens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitately 
 when apprehenfive of danger. 
 
 There are many other fpecies of fnakes in the 
 regions of Florida and Carolina ; as the water 
 fnake, black fpake, garter fnake, copper belly, ring 
 neck, and two or three varieties of vipers, befides 
 thofe already noticed in my journal. Since i have 
 begun to mention the animals of thefe regions, this 
 may be a proper place to enumerate the other tribes 
 which I obferved during my perigrinations. I fliall 
 begin with the frogs (ranae.) 
 
 /'i)The largeft frog known in Florida and on 
 the fea coafl of Carolina, is about eight or nine 
 inches in length from the nofe to the extremity of 
 the toes : they are of a dufl^y brown or black co- 
 lour on the upper fide, and their belly or under fide 
 
 white 
 
NORTH AMERICA. I73, 
 
 white, fpotted and clouded with diifky fpots ol' vn- 
 rjous fize and figure ; their legs and thighs alfo are 
 variegated with tranfverfe ringlets, of dark brown 
 or black ; and they are yellow and green about 
 their mouth and lips. They live in wetfwamps and 
 inarfhes, on the Ihores of large rivers and lakes ; 
 their voice is loud and hideous, greatly refcmbling 
 the grunting of a fwine ; but not near as loud as the 
 voice of the bull frog of Virginia and Pennfylvania ; 
 neither do they arrive to halJF their fizc, the bull frog" 
 being frequently eighteen inches in length, ai;u 
 their roaring as loud as that of a bull. 
 
 (2) The bell frog, fo called becaufc their voice 
 is fancied to be exactly like the found of a loud 
 ccTw bell. This tribe being very numerous, and 
 uttering their voices in companies or by large dif-* 
 tricls, when one begins another anlwers ; thus the 
 found is caught and repeated from one to another, 
 to a great dilfance round about, caufmg a furpri- 
 fmg noifc for a few minutes, rifing and linking ac- 
 cori.rmg*as the v/ind fits, when it nearly dies away^ 
 or is foftly kept up by diilant didricts or commu- 
 nities : thus the noife is repeated continually, and 
 as one becomes familiarifed to it, is not unmufical, 
 thouErh at {ird:, tollranrers, it fccms clamorous and 
 difgr.lling. 
 
 (3) A beautiful green frog inhabits the graffy, 
 inarihy fnores of thcfe large rivers. They are very 
 numerous, and their noife exactly refembles the 
 barking of little dogs, or the yelpinc; cf puppies : 
 thefe likewife make a great clamour, but as their 
 notes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by fcparate 
 bands or communities, far and near, rifing and 
 falling with the gentle breezes, affords a pleafing 
 kind of mufiC. 
 
 T (4) Tiiere 
 
274 TRAVELS IN 
 
 (4) There is befides this a lefs green frog, which 
 is very common about houfes : their notes are re- 
 markably like that of young chickens : thcfe raife 
 their chorus immediately preceding a Ihower of rain, 
 v.'ith v/hich they feem delighted. 
 
 (5) A little grey fpeckled frog is in prodigious 
 numbers in and about the ponds and favannas on 
 high land, particularly in Pine forefls : their lan- 
 guage or noife is alfo uttered in chorus, by large 
 communities or feparate bands ; each particular 
 note refembles the noife made by fhriking two peb- 
 bles together under the furface of the water, which 
 when thoafands near yon utter their notes at the 
 fame time, and is tvafted to your ears by a fudden 
 flow of wind, is very furprifing, and does not ill 
 refemble the rufning noife made by a vaft quantity 
 of gravel and pebbles together, at once precipitated 
 from a great height. 
 
 (6) There is yet an extreme diminutive fpecies 
 of frogs, which inhabits the grafly verges of ponds 
 in favannas : thefe are called favanna crickets, are 
 of a dark afli or dufky colour, and have a very 
 picked nofe. At the times of very great rains, in 
 the autumn, when the favannas are in a manner 
 inundated, they are to be feen in incredible multi- 
 tudes clambering up the tall grafs, weed, &c. round 
 the verges of the favannas, bordering on the higher 
 ground ; and by an inattentive perfon might be ta- 
 ken for fpiders or other infecls. Their note is very 
 feeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds or 
 crickets. 
 
 (7) The fliad frrg, fo called in Pennfylvania from 
 their appearing and croaking in the fpring feafon, 
 at the time the people fifh for ihad : this is a 
 
 beautiful 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 275 
 
 beautiful fpotted frog, of a (lender form, five or fix 
 inches in length from the nofe to the extremities ; 
 of a dark olive green, blotched with clouds and 
 ringlets of a dullcy colour : thefe are remarkable 
 jumpers and enterprifing hunters, leaving their 
 ponds to a great dil lance in fearch of prey. They 
 abound in rivers, fwamps and marfhes, in the Sou- 
 thern regions ; in the evening and fultry fummer 
 days, particularly in times of drought, are very 
 noify ; and at fome diflance one would be almofl 
 perfuaded that there were affemblics of men in feri- 
 ous debate. Thefe have alio a fucking or clucking 
 noife, like that which is made by fucking in the 
 tongue under the roof of the mouth. Thefe are 
 the kinds of water frogs that iiave come under my 
 obfervation ; yet 1 am perfuaded that there are yet 
 remaining fevcral other fpecies. 
 
 (8) The high land frogs, commonly called toads, 
 are of two fpecies, the red and black. The for- 
 mer, which is of a reddifli brown or brick colour, 
 is the largcft, and may weigh upwards of one pound 
 when full grown : they have a difagreeable look, 
 and w-hen irritated, they fwell and raife themfelves 
 lip on their four legs and croak, but are no ways 
 venemous or hurttul to man. The other fpecies 
 are one third lefs, and of a black or dark dulky co- 
 lour. The legs and thighs of both are marked with 
 blotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which ap- 
 pear more confpicuous when provoked : the fmaller 
 black fpecies are the moil numerous. Early in the 
 fpring feafon, they ali'emble by numberlei's multi- 
 tudes in the drains and ponds, when their univerfal 
 croaking and fhouts are great Indeed, yet in fome 
 degree not unharmonious. After tliis breeding time 
 they crawl out of the water and fpread themfelves 
 T 3 all 
 
476 YRAVELs irr 
 
 all over the country. Their fpawn beliK;" hatched 
 m the Avarm water, the larva is there nourifhed, 
 paffing through the like metamorphofes as the 
 water frogs 5 and as foon as they obtain four feet, 
 whiift yet no larger than crickets, they leave the 
 fluid nurfery-bed, and hop over the dry land after 
 their parents. 
 
 . The food of thefe amphibious creatures, when 
 out of the water, is every kind of infect, reptile, 
 &c. they can take, even ants and fpiders ; nature 
 having furniilied them with an extreme long tongue, 
 which exudes a vifcid or glutinous liquid, they be- 
 ing fecreted under covert, fpring fuddenly upoii' 
 their prey, 01* dart forth their tongue as quick as 
 lightning, and inftantly drag into- their devouring 
 jaws the unwary infect. But whether they prey upon 
 one another, as the water frogs do, I know not. 
 
 There are feveral fpecies of the H?!ard kind befides- 
 the alligator, which is by naturalifts allowed to be a 
 fpecies of that genus. 
 
 The green lizard or little green chameleon is a 
 pretty innocent creature : the largeil I have ken 
 were not more than feven inches in length : they 
 appear commonly of a fine green colour, having a 
 large red gill under their throat : they have the fa- 
 culty of changing colour, which, notwithftanding 
 the fpecious reafoning of phyfiologifts, is a very 
 furprifmg phenomenon. The llrloed lizard, called 
 fcorplon, and the blue bellied fquamous lizards I 
 have already mentioned. There is a large coppe? 
 coloured lizard, and a very flender one of a fine 
 blue colour, and very fuift ; the tail of this laft, 
 which is very long and fiender, is as fubject to be 
 broken off as that of the glafs fnake, Thefc two 
 
 kfb 
 
NOF.TH AMERICA, 27*7 
 
 lad are become A^ery fciirce, and when feen rje dif- 
 covered about old log buildings. 
 
 Here are feverai fpecies of the tortoife, befides 
 thrSr. already mentioned ; as the fmall land tor- 
 toile^ already defcribed by every traveller. There 
 is a good figure and defcrlption of him in G. 
 IM'.varus's Gl. Nat. Hift. vol. II. p. 205. There 
 arc two fpecies of frefh-water tortoifes inhabiting 
 the tide water rivers ; one of v»'hich is large, weigh- 
 ing tcL or twelve pounds, the back fliell of nearly 
 an oval form, and railed very high, the belly 
 (hell flat and entire, but deeply fcollopcd oppofite 
 the legs. Tfie other fpecies are fmal', com- 
 paratively, and tlie back fhell lightl)^ raifed : both 
 fpecies are food for mankind and efleemed deli- 
 cious. 
 
 Of beads, the otter (lutra) is co-nmon, but more 
 fo in tV^eft-Florida, towards the mountains. The 
 feverai fpecies of muftcla are common ; as the 
 mink, weafel and polecat (putorius). Racoons and 
 <)po{fums are in great abundance ; thefe animals 
 are elleemed delicious and healthy food. There 
 are two fpecies of wild-rats ; but neither of them 
 near as large as the European houfe-rat, which are 
 common enough in the fcttlements of the white 
 people. Here are very few mice ; yet I have iQcn 
 fome, particularly in Charlcfton. I faw two in a 
 little wire cage, at a gentleman's houfe, which were 
 as white as fnow, and their eyes rede There are 
 yet a few beavers in Eaft-Florida and Georgia, but 
 they abound mod in the North of Georgia, and in 
 Weft-Florida, near the mountains. But the muflv^ 
 rat (caflor cauda lanceolata) is never itcn in Ca- 
 rolina, Georgia or Florida, within one hundred 
 ^liles of the fea coaft, and very few in the mod 
 
 ;i.orther 
 
2yS TRAVELS IN 
 
 northern parfs of thefe regions ; which mud be con- 
 fidered as a mofl lavourable circumftance, by the 
 people in countries where there is fo much banking 
 an^ draining of the land, they being the mod de- 
 {'ruclive creatures to dykes. 
 
 The roe-buck I have aheady memioned. The 
 bears are yet too numerous : they are a flrong crea- 
 ture, and prey on the fruits of the country, and will 
 likewife devour young calves, fwine and Iheep ; but 
 I never could learn a well attefted infl:ance of their 
 attacking mankind. They weigh from five hundred 
 to fix hundred weight when full grown and fat : their 
 flefh is greatly efteemed as food by the natives. 
 
 The wild cat, felis cauda truncata, (lyiix) is 
 common enough ; it is a fierce and bold httle 
 animal, pre)'ing on young pigs, fawns, turkeys, SiC. 
 They are not half the fize of a common cur dog, 
 are generally of- a greyiih colour, and fomewhat 
 tabbied; their fides bordering on the belly are va- 
 ried with yellowifh brown fpots, and almoft black 
 waving ftreaks, and brindled; I have been credibly 
 informed thai the wolves here are frequently fecn 
 pied, black and while, and of other mixed colours. 
 They alTemble in companies in theiiic;ht time, hovv'i 
 and bark altogether, efpecially in cold v.'inter nights, 
 which is terrifying to the wandering bewildei'ed tra- 
 veller. 
 
 The foxes of Carolina and Florida are of the 
 fmaller red' fpecies ; they bark in the night round 
 about plantations, but do not bark twice in the 
 fame place ; they move precipitately, and in a few 
 minutes are heard on the oppofire fide of the plan- 
 tation, or at a greiat diiTance : it is faid that dogs 
 are terrified at the noifc, and cannot be pcrfuaded 
 
 or 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 279 
 
 or compelled to purfuc them. They commit 
 depredations on young pigs, Iambs, poultry, 
 &c. 
 
 The mole is not fo common here as in the north- 
 ern eftates. 
 
 The bats of Florida fecm to be the fame fpecies of 
 thofc in Pennfylvania and Virginia, and very little 
 .different from the European. 
 
 Here are feveral fpecies of fquirrels, (fclurus) 
 peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime parts of 
 Carolina and the Floridas, and fome of them are 
 very beautiful creatures. 
 
 The great black fox fquirrel is above two feet 
 in length from the nofe to the end of the tail, 
 which for about two inches is milk white, as are 
 the ears and nofe. The red fox fquirrel is of the 
 fame fize and form, of a light reddifli brown upper 
 fide, and white under fide, the ears and tip end of 
 the tail white. 
 
 The grey fox fquirrel is rather larger than 
 either of the foregoing ; their belly white, as are 
 the ears, nofe, and tip of the tail. Thefe three 
 feem to be varieties of the fame fpecies. 
 
 The common grey fquirrel is about half the fize of 
 the preceding. 
 
 The black fquirrel is about tlie fame fize, and all 
 over of a Ihining jet black. 
 
 The little grey fquirrel is much lefs than either of 
 the preceding fpecies ; it is of a brov-nifn grey upper 
 fide, and white belly. 
 
 The 
 
 i 
 
2oO TRAViiLS IN 
 
 The ground fquirrcl, or little ftriped fquirrel of 
 Pcnnfylvania and the northern regions, is never feen 
 here, and very rarely in the mountains north-weft: 
 ofKhefe territories ; but the flying fquirrel, (fciurus 
 volans) is vei'y common. 
 
 The rabbit (lepus minor, cauda abrupta, pupillis 
 atris) is pretty common, and no ways differing trom 
 thofe of Pennfylvania and the northern flates. 
 
 Having mentioned rnoft of the animals in thefe 
 parts of America, which are moft remarkable or 
 ufeful, there remains, however, yet fome obferva- 
 tlons on birds, which by fome may be thought not- 
 impertinent. 
 
 There are but few that have fallen under my o.b- 
 fervation, but have been mentioned by the zoologifts, 
 and mod of them very well figured in Catefoy's, or 
 Edv.ards's v/orks. 
 
 But thefe authors have done very little towards 
 elucidating the fubjed of the migration of birds, 
 or accounting for the annual appearance and dif- 
 appearance, and vanifliing of thefe beautiful and 
 entertaining beings, who vifit us at certain itated 
 feafons. Cateiby has faid very little on this curious 
 fubject ; but Edwards more, and perhaps all, or as 
 much as could be faid in truth, by the nioH: able and 
 ingenious, who had not the advantage and oppor- 
 tunity of ocular obfcrvation; which can only he 
 acquired by travelling, and refiding a whole year 
 at lead in the various climates from north to fouth, 
 to the full extent of their peregrinations ; or mi- 
 nutely examining the tracls and obfervations of cu- 
 rious and indudrious travellers, who have publiflied 
 their memoirs on this fubjeft. There may perhaps 
 be feme perfons who co)ifider this enquiry not to 
 
 be 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ' sSx 
 
 be produftlve of any reai benefit to mankind, and 
 pronounce fuch attention to natural hiftory merely 
 fpeculative, and only fit to amufe and entertain the 
 idle virtuofo ; however the ancients thought other- 
 wife : for with them, the knowledge of the paiTage 
 of birds was the ftudy of their priefts and philofo- 
 phers, and was confidered a matter of real and in- 
 difpenfable ufe to the (late, next to alhonomy ; as 
 we find their fyflem and practice of agriculture was 
 in a great degree regulated by the arrival and dif- 
 appearance of birds of palTage ; and perhaps a ca- 
 lendar under fuch a regulation at this time, might 
 be ufeful to the huibandnian and gardener. 
 
 But however attentive and obfervant the an- 
 cients were on this branch of fcience, they feem to 
 have been very ignorant or erroneous in their con- 
 jeftures concerning what became of birds, after 
 their difappearance, until their return again. In 
 the fouthern and temperate climates fome imagined 
 they went to the moon : in the northern regions 
 they fuppofed that they retired to caves and hollow 
 trees, for flielter and fecurity, where they remained 
 in a dormant ifate during the cold feafons : and 
 even at this dav, very celebrated men have allerted 
 that fwallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter, 
 voluntarily plunge into lakes and rivers, defcend 
 to the bottom, and there creep into the mud and 
 flime, where they continue overwhelmed by ice in 
 a torpid Rate, until the returning fummer warms 
 them again into life ; when they rife, return to the 
 furface of the water, immediately take wing, and 
 again people the air. This notion, though the latelt, 
 fcems the moil diilicult to reconcile to reafon and 
 common kn^e, re'peOing a bird fo fwift of flight 
 tliat it canwlt'i cafj and plcafure move through the 
 
 air 
 
282 TRAVELS IN 
 
 air even fwifter than the winds, and in a few 
 hours time Aiift twenty degrees from north to 
 foiith, even from frozen regions to climes where 
 froft is never feen, and where the air and piains 
 are repleniflied with flying infects of infinite va- 
 riety, its favourite and only food. 
 
 Pennfylvania and Virginia appear to me to be 
 the climates in North-America, where the greatefl 
 variety and abundance ot thefe winged emigrants 
 choofe to celebrate their nuptials, and rear their 
 offspring, which they annually return with, to their 
 winter habitations, in the fouthern regions of N. 
 America ; and mod of thofe beautiful creatures, 
 which annually people and harmonife our forefls and 
 groves, in the fpring and fummer feafons, are birds 
 of palTage from the fouthward. The eagle, i. e, 
 falco leucocephalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus, 
 or great grey eagle, falco major cauda ferrugineo, 
 falco pullarius, falco columbarius, (Irix pythaulis, 
 flrix acclamatus, ilrix affio, tetrao tympanus, or 
 pheafant of Pennfylvania, tetrao urogalius, or 
 mountain cock or grous of Pennfylvania^ tetrao 
 minor five coturnix, or partridge of Pennfylvania, 
 picus, or woodpeckers of feveral fpecies, corvus 
 carnivorus, or raven, corvus frugivora, or crow, 
 corvus glandarius f. corvus criftatus, or blue jay, 
 alauda maxima, regulus atrofufcus minor, or marfh 
 wren, fitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhaps 
 nearlv all the land birds which continue the year 
 round in Pennfylvania. I might add to thefe the 
 blue bird, motacilla fialis, mock bird, turdus poly- 
 glottos, and fomctimes the robin redbreall, turdus 
 migratorius, in extraordinary warm winters ; and 
 althouo-h I do not pretend to aflert as a known 
 truth, yet it may be found on future obfervation 
 
 that 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 283 
 
 that mofl: of thefe above mentioned are flrangers ; 
 or not really bred where they wintered ; but are 
 more northern families, or fojourners, bound fou- 
 therly to more temperate habitations ; thus pulh- 
 ing each other foutherly, and pollefling their va- 
 cated places, and then back again at the return of 
 fpring. 
 
 Very few tribes of birds build, or rear their 
 young, in the fouth or maritime parts of Virginia 
 aP'^ Carolina, Georgia and Florida; yet all thefe 
 numerous tribes, particularly of the foft billed 
 kinds, which breed in Pennfylvania, pafs in the 
 fpring fcafon through thefe regions in a few weeks 
 time, making but very fliort ftages by the way : 
 and again, but few of theni winter there, on their 
 return foutherly : and as I have never travelled 
 the continent fouth of ]SIew Orleans, or the point 
 of Florida, where few or none of them are to be 
 feen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how far 
 fouthward thev continue their route, durinc: their 
 abfence from Pennfylvania ; but perhaps none of 
 them pafs the tropic. 
 
 "When in my refidence in Carolina and Florida, 
 I have ken vaft flights of the houfe fwallow (hirur- 
 do pelafgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) paf- 
 fing onward north toward Pennfylvania, where they 
 breed in the fpring, about the middle of March« 
 and likewife in the autumn in September or Odo^^ 
 ber, and large flights on their return fouthward. 
 And it is oblervable that they always avail them- 
 felves of the advantage of high and favourable 
 winds, which likewife do all birds of padage. Tlie 
 pewit, or black cap flycatcher, of Catefby, is the 
 firft bird of paffage which appears in the fpring in 
 Pennfylvania, winch is gent'rnlly about the firfl', or 
 
 middle 
 
2S4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 middle of Marcb ; and then wherever they appesi> 
 we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds, 
 fvicia fativa) French beans (phafeoliis) few rad- 
 dlflies, (raphanus) lettuce, (ladluca) onions, (cepa) 
 paftinaca, daucus, and almofl every kind of ef- 
 culent garden feeds, without fear or danger from 
 fiofls ; for although v/c have fometimes frofts after 
 their lirft appearance for a night or tv/o, yet not fo 
 fevere as to injure the young plants. 
 
 In the fpring of the year the fmall birds of paf- 
 fage appear very fuddenly in Pcnnfylvania, which 
 is not a little furprifmg, and no lefs pleafnig : at 
 .once the woods, the groves, and meads, are filled 
 with their melody, as if they dropped down from 
 the fides. ' The reafon or probable caufe is their 
 fetting off with high and fair winds from the foulh- 
 ward ; for a ftrong fouth and fouth-weft v/ind about 
 -the beginning of April never fails bringing millions 
 of thefe welcome vifitors. 
 
 Being willing to contribute my mite toward^ 
 iiluflrating the fubjed of the peregrination of the 
 tribes of birds of N. America, I fhall fubjoin a 
 nomenclature of the birds of pafiage, agreeable to 
 my obfervation, when on my travels from New 
 England to Neiv-Orleans, on the rvliirillippi, and 
 point of Florida. 
 
 Land birds which are feen in Pcnnfylvania, 
 Maryland, Virginia, from S. Carolina, Georgia, 
 and Florida, N. and the fea coaft Weftv/ard, to the 
 Apalachian mountains, viz. 
 
 * These arrive in Pcnnfylvania in the fpring 
 feafon from the South, and after building nefls, 
 and rearing their young, return again Southerly in 
 the autumn, 
 
 j TmES^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA. £^5 
 
 f These arrive in Pennfylvania in the autumn, 
 from the North, where they continue during the 
 winter, and return again the fpring following, I 
 fuppofe to breed and rear their young ; and thefe 
 kinds continue their journies as far South as Caro- 
 lina and Florida. 
 
 I TiiFSE ariive in the fpring in Carolina and 
 Florida trom the South, breed and rear their young, 
 and return South again at the approach of win- 
 ter, but never reach Pennfylvania, or the Northern 
 States. 
 
 II These are natives of Carolina and Florida, 
 where they breed and continue the year round. 
 
 ^ Thefe breed and continue the year round in 
 Pennfylvania. 
 
 Sir IX. The Owl. 
 
 I Strix ardicus, capite levi, corpore toto nivco ; 
 
 the great white owl. 
 ^ Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufo j 
 
 the great horned owl. 
 ■f Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo ; 
 
 the great horned white owl. 
 •[ Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grifeo ; 
 
 the whootinfj owl. 
 
 o 
 
 I Strix peregrinatoT, capire aurito, corpore ver- 
 ficolore ; the fliarp winged owl. 
 
 ^ Strix affio, capite aurito, corpore ferrugineo ; 
 the little fcreech owl. 
 
 VuLTUR. The Vulture. 
 
 Ij Vultur aura ; the turkey-buzzard. 
 IJ Vultur facra ; the white tailed vulture, 
 jl Vultur atratus ; black vulture, or carrion crow, 
 
 Falco. 
 
285 TRAVELS I^ 
 
 Falco. Eagle and Hawk. 
 
 ^ Falco regalis ; the great grey eagle. 
 ^ F. leucocephalus ; the bald eagle. 
 
 * F. pifcatorius ; the fifhing eagle. 
 
 ^ F. Aquilinus^: cauda ferrug. great eagle hawk. 
 ^ F. galHnarius ; the hen hawk. 
 ^ F. pullarius ; rhe chicken hawk. 
 
 * F. colurabarius ; the pigeon hawk. 
 ^ F. niger ; the black hawk. 
 
 * F. ranivorus ; the marfh hawk. 
 
 * F. fparverius ; the leaft hawk or fparrow fpark. 
 
 a MiLvus. Kite Hawk. 
 
 II Falco furcatus ; the forked tail hawk, or kite. 
 II F. glaucus ; the fharp winged hawk, of a pale 
 
 fky-blue colour, the tip of the wings black. 
 11 F. fubceruleus ; the fiiarp winged hawk, of a 
 
 dark or duiky blue colour. 
 II Pfittacus Carolinienfis ; the parrot of Carolina, 
 
 or parrakeet. 
 
 CoRvus. The Crow kind. 
 
 * Corvus carnivorus ; the raven. 
 
 Jl C. maritiinus ; the great fea-fide crow, or rook. 
 
 ^ C. frugivorus ; the common crow. 
 
 *[ C. criitatus, f. pica glandaria ; the blue jay. 
 
 ^ C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor ; the little 
 
 jay of Florida. 
 ^ Gracula quifcula ; the purple jackdaw of the 
 
 fea coaft. 
 
 a Kite hawks. Thcfc arc charadcerlfed by having Ion* fliarp pointed 
 wings, being of fwift flight, failing without flapping their wings, lean 
 light bodies, and feeding out of their claws on tlie wing, as tliey gently 
 fail round and round. 
 
 Pica gh'.ndaria ccrulea non criflata, the little jay «f EaftFJorida. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^87 
 
 * Gracula purpurea ; the leffer purple jackdaw, 
 
 or crow blackbird. 
 
 * Cuculus Carolinienfis ; the cuckoo of Carolina. 
 
 Picus. Woodpeckers. 
 
 jl Picus principalis ; the greateft crefted wood- 
 pecker, having a white back. 
 
 * P. peilatus j the great red crefted black wood- 
 
 pecker. 
 
 * P. erythrocephalus ; red headed woodpecker. 
 ■ P. auralus ; the gold winged woodpecker. 
 
 ^ P. Carolinus ; the red bellied woodpecker. 
 ^ P. pubefcens ; the leafl fpotted woodpecker. 
 •[ P. villofus ; the hairy, fpeckled and crefted 
 
 woodpecker. 
 ^ P. varius ; yellow bellied woodpecker. 
 •[ Sitta Europea ; grey black capped nuthatch. 
 ] S. varia, ventre rubro j the black capped, red 
 
 bellied nuthatch. 
 f Certhia rufa ; little brown variegated creeper. 
 
 * C. pinus ; the pine creeper. 
 
 * C. picla; blue and white llriped or pied creeper. 
 '" Alcedo alcyon ; the great crefted king-fiflier. 
 
 * Trochilus colubris ; the humming bird. 
 
 * Lanius grifeus ; the little grey butcher-bird of 
 
 Pennfylvania. 
 
 * L. garrulus ; the Httle black capped or butcher 
 
 bird of Florida. 
 ^ L. tyrannus ; the king bird. 
 
 * Mufcicapa nunciola ; the pewit, or black cap 
 
 flycatcher. 
 
 * M. criftata ; the great crefted yellow bellied 
 
 flycatcher. 
 
 * M. rapax ; the leffer pewit, or brown and 
 
 greenifli flycatcher. 
 "* M. fubviridis ; the little olive col'^. flycatcher. 
 
 * Mufcicapa 
 
288 TRAVELS III 
 
 * Mufcic^pa" caAtatrix ; the little domeftic fly- 
 
 catcher or green wren. 
 . * M. fylvicola ; the little red eyed flycatcher. 
 
 * Columba Carolinienfis, the turtle dove. 
 Ij C. paflferina ; the dove. 
 
 jj C. migratoria j the pigeon of paflage or wild 
 
 pigeon. 
 ^ Alauda magna ; the great meadow lark. 
 I A campeftris ; gutture flavo ; the fl^y lark. 
 I A. migratoria ; corpore toto ferrugineo, the 
 
 little brown lark. 
 ^ Turdus migratorius ; the fieldfare, or robin 
 
 redbreafl. 
 
 * T. rufus ; the great, or fox coloured thrufli. 
 
 * T. polyglottos ; the mocking bird. 
 
 * T. melodes ; the wood thrufh. 
 
 *^ T. minimus, vertice auro ; the leafl golden 
 crown thrufh. 
 
 * Oriolus Baltimore; Baltimore bird or hang neft. 
 
 * O. fpurius ; the goldiinch or icterus minor. 
 
 * Merula flammula; fand-hill redbird of Carolina. 
 
 * M. MarilandJca ; the fummer redbird. 
 
 * Garrulis aullralis ; the yellow brealled chat. 
 
 * Lucar lividus,. apice nigra ; the cat bird, or 
 
 chicken bird. 
 ^ Ampelis garrulus; crown bird, or cedar bird- 
 
 Granii^op.ous Tribes. 
 
 ^ Meleagris Americanus ; the wild turkey. 
 <[[ Tetrao lagopus ; the mountain cock, or grous. 
 ^\ T. tympanus ; the pheafant of Pennfylvania. 
 5f J\ minor, f. coturnix ; the quail or partridge. 
 ^ Loxia cardinalis ; the red bird, or Virginia 
 
 nightingale. 
 f L. roflro forficato ; the crofs beak. 
 
 * L. cerulea ; the blue crofs beak. 
 
NORTH AMERIC.U 2%^ 
 
 * Embetizaoryzivoraj (i) the rice bliu.* 
 
 f E. livida ; the blue or flate coloured rice bird, 
 
 * E. varia ; (2) the pied rice bird.. 
 
 I Linaria ciris ; the painted finch, or nonpariil. 
 
 * L. cyanea ; the blue linnet. 
 
 ^ Carduelis Aniericanus ; the goldfinch. 
 I C. minus ; the lefler goldfinch. 
 I C. pufilus ; the leail finch. 
 
 * Fringilla erythrophthalma ; the towhe bird. 
 'J- F. purpurea ; the purple finch. 
 
 f F. cannabina j the hemp bird. 
 
 f F. rufa ; the red, or fox-coloured ground or 
 
 hedge fparrow. 
 I F. fufca ; the large brown white throat fparrow. 
 
 * Paifer domeflicus ; the little houfc fparrow 
 
 or chipping bird. 
 
 * P. paluflris ; the reed fparrow. 
 
 * P. agreftis ; the little field fparrow. 
 f P. nivalis ; the fnow bird. 
 
 ^ Calandra pratenfis ; the May bird. 
 
 ^■' Sturnus pnedatorius; the red winged flarling, 
 
 or corn thief. 
 "^ S. flercorarius ; the cowpen bird. 
 
 * Motacilla fialis ; the blue bird. (Rubicula 
 
 Americana, Cat.j 
 
 * M. fluviaiilis ; the water wagtail. 
 
 * M. domeftica, (regulus rufus) ; the houfe wren. 
 ^ * M. paluftris ; (reg. minor) the marfli wren. 
 
 * M. Caroliniana ; (reg. magnus) the great 
 
 wren of Carolina, the body of a dark brown, 
 the throat and bread of a pale clay colour. 
 
 * Regulus grifeus ; the little bluifh grey wren, 
 f R. criltatus j the golden crown wren. 
 
 * (l, 2) Are generally fuppofed fo be male aini remalc of the famifpe- 
 •ie* '^zj or the pied lie: bud :h; male, and (1 ) cr the yellow, the female. 
 
 U f R. 
 
i9« Travels in 
 
 I R. crillatus alter vertice rubini colons ; the 
 ruby crown wren. (G. Edwards.) 
 
 * R. peregrinus, gutture flavo j the olive coloured 
 
 yellow throated wren. 
 
 * Ruticilla Americana; the redftart. 
 
 * Lufcihl^a, f. philomela Americana ; the yellow 
 
 hooded titmoufe. 
 - Paruo criftatus j bluifti grey creiled titmoufe^ 
 ^ P. Europjeus ; the black cap titmoufe. 
 
 * P. luteus ; the fummer yellow bird. 
 
 * P. cedrus uropygio flavo ; the yellow rump. 
 
 * P. varius ; various coloured little finch creeper. 
 
 * P. peregrinus ; little chocolate breafl titmoufe. | 
 
 * P. aureus vertice rubro ; the yellow red pole. 
 
 * P. aurea vertice ; the golden crown flycatcher, 
 
 * P. viridis gutture nigro j- the green black 
 
 throated flycatcher. 
 
 * P. alls aureis ; the golden winged flycatcher. 
 
 * P. aureus alis ceruleis j the blue winged yellow 
 
 bird. 
 
 * P. grifeuS' gutture luteo j. the yellow throated 
 
 creeper. 
 
 * Hirundo pelafgl'a cauda acukata; the houfe 
 
 ^fvvallow. 
 
 * H. purpurea ; the great purple martin. 
 
 * H. riparia vertice purpurea ; the bank martin. 
 
 * H. cerdo ; the chimney fwallow. 
 
 } Caprimulgus lucifugus ; the great bat, or 
 chuck wills widow. 
 
 * C. Americanusj nighthawk, or whip poor will,- 
 
 Amphibious, or Aquatic Birds, 
 
 Or fuch as obtain their food, and refide, in an4 
 
 near the water. 
 
 Grus. The Crane. 
 
 jl Grus clamator, ^vertice papillofo, corpore ni- 
 
 veo 
 
NOR.TH AMEPvICA. 29 S 
 
 Veo lemigibus nigris ; the great whooping 
 crane. 
 I G. pratenfis ; corpore cinereo, verticc papil- 
 lofo ; the great favanna crane. 
 
 Ardea. The Heron. 
 ^ Ardea Herodias ; the great bluifli gr^y creftcd 
 heron. 
 
 * A. immaculata ; the c^reat white river h.-ron. 
 
 * A. alba minor ; the Httle white heron. 
 
 I A. purpurea criftata ; the little crifled purple 
 or blue heron. 
 
 * A. varia criftata ; the grey white crefled heron. 
 I A. maculata crillata ; the fpeckled crefted 
 
 heron, or crabcatcher. 
 
 * A. mugitans ; the marfh bittern, or Indianhen. 
 
 * A. clamator, corpore fubcaeruleo j the (^uaw 
 
 bird, or frogcatcher. 
 } A. fubfufca flillata ; the little brownifti fpotted 
 
 bittern. 
 I A. violacea ; the crefted blue bittern, (called 
 
 poor Job.) 
 
 * A. virifcens ; the green bittern or poke. 
 
 * A. virifcens minor, the lefier green bittern. 
 
 * A. parva ; the lead brown and ftriped bittern. 
 
 * Platalea ajaja ; the fpoonbill, feen as tar North 
 
 as Alatamaha river in Georgia. 
 Tantai.us. The wood Pelicaji. 
 I Tantalus loculator ; the wood pelican. 
 
 I T. albus ; the white Spanifli curlew. 
 
 + T. fufcus ; the dui'ky and white Spanifli curlew. 
 
 II T. piclus ; (Ephoufl^yka Indian) the crying 
 
 bird, beautifully fpeckled. 
 jj T. Ichthyophagus ; the ganijet ; perhaps little 
 
 different from the Ibis. 
 II Numenius alba varia ; the white godwit. 
 *y N. pedore rufo ; the i^reat red breafted godwit. 
 U2 fTN. 
 
'SjZ TRAVELS IN 
 
 fr N. Americana ; the greater godwit. 
 
 ^ N. fluvialis ; the redlhank or poolfnipe. 
 
 ^r N. magnus rufus ; the great lea coaft curlew. 
 
 * N. minor campeftris ; the lefler field curlew. 
 •[ N. cinereus j the feafide leffer curlew. 
 
 * Scolopax Americana rufa j great red woodcock. 
 ^ S. minor arvenfis ; the meadow fnipc. 
 
 * Tringa rufa ; the red cootfooted tringa. 
 
 T. cinerea, gutture albo j the white throated 
 
 cootfooted tringa. 
 T. vertice nigro ; black cap cootfooted tringa. 
 
 «[ W maculata ; the fpotted tringa. 
 
 ^i T. grifea j the little pond fnipe. 
 
 «[ T.*fufca ; the little brown or afli coloured 
 pool fnipe. 
 
 ^ T. parva ; the little tringa of the fea {hore, 
 called fand bird. 
 
 '* Morinella Americana ; the turnftone or dotrcl. 
 
 \ Cygnus ferus j the wild fwan. 
 
 I AnTer Canadenfis ; the Canadian goofe. 
 
 i A. alis casrulis ; the blue winged goofe. 
 
 i A. fufcus maculatus ; the laughing goofe. 
 
 I A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris j 
 the white brant goofe. 
 
 } A. branta grifea maculata; the great parti- 
 coloured brant, or grey goofe. 
 
 I Anas fera torquata major, caput et collum 
 viridi fplendentia, dorfum grifeo fufcum, 
 pe£lore rufefcente, fpeculum violaceum ; the 
 great wild duck, called duck and mallard. 
 
 j A. nigra maxima ; the great black duck. 
 
 j A. bucephala ; the bull-neck and bufFaloe head. 
 
 I A. fubcai^rulea ; the blue bill. 
 
 i A. liucocephala ; the black white faced duck. 
 
 i A. caudacuta ; the fprig tail duck. 
 
 f A. ruftica j the little brown and white duck. 
 
 f A. 
 
NORTPI AMERICA. 293 
 
 I A. princlpali*, maculata ; the various coloured 
 duck, his neck and breaft as though orna- 
 mented with chains of beads. 
 
 I A minor pidla ; the httle black and white 
 duck called butterback. 
 
 QuERQUEDULAE Teal. 
 
 * Anas fponfa ; the fummer duck. 
 I A. difcors ; the blue winged teal. 
 
 i A. migratoria ; the lead green winged teal. 
 
 * A. fiftulofa ; whiftUng duck. 
 
 I Mergus major pe£lore rufo ; great fifhing duck. 
 I M. cucullatus ; the round crefted duck. 
 
 * Colymbus migratorius ; the eel crow. 
 
 jj C. Floridanus ; the great black cormorant of 
 
 Florida, having a red beak. 
 ^ C. colubrinus, cauda elongata ; the fnake bird 
 
 of Florida, 
 ^ C. muficus ; the great black and white pied 
 
 diver or loon. 
 \ Colymbus ardicus ; the great fpeckled diver. 
 *![ C. auritus et cornutus j the little eared brown 
 
 dobchick. 
 «[ C. minor fufcus ; little crcfled brown dobchick. 
 \ PhacCthon aethereus ; the tropic bird. 
 •[ Larus albus ; the great white gull. 
 •[ L. grifeus ; the great grey gull. 
 \ L. albus minor ; the little white river gull, 
 jl Onocrotalus Americanus ; the American fea 
 
 pelican, 
 jj Petrclla pintada ; the pintada bird. 
 •[ Rynchops niger ; the fnearwater or razor bill. 
 I Pelicanus aquilus ; the frigate, or man of war 
 
 bird. 
 \ P. fula ; the booby, 
 f Sterna ftoliJa j the fea fwallow, or noddy. 
 
 Charadrus. 
 
294 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Charadrus. The Plover kind. 
 
 * Charadrus vociferus ; the kildea or chattering 
 
 plover. 
 
 * C. maculatus ; the great field fpotted plover. 
 
 * C. minor ; the little feafide ring necked plover, 
 *" Haematopns oftrcalccus ; the v/ill willet or 
 
 oyfler catcher. 
 Jl Fulica Floridana ; the great blue or flate co- 
 loured coot of Florida. 
 
 * Rallus Virginia' ius ; the force bird or little 
 
 brown rail, alfo called widgeon in Fennfyl. 
 \ R. acquaticus minor ; the little dark blue water 
 rail. 
 
 * R. rufus AmericarAis ; the greater brown rail. 
 }j R. major fubcaeruleus ; the blue ov fiate co- 
 loured water rail of Florida. 
 
 * Phoenicopterus ruber ; the flamingo, feen 
 
 about the point of Florida, rarely as far N. 
 as St. Auguftinc. 
 
 1 am convinced there are yet feveral kinds of 
 land birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl, that 
 have not come under my particular notice ; there- 
 fore fliall leave them to the inveftigation of future 
 travelling naturalifts of greater ability and in- 
 duflry. 
 
 There yet remain fome obfervations on the paf- 
 fage, and breeding of birds, hz. which may be 
 proper to notice in this place, 
 
 ^ I fhall fird mention the rice bird, (emberlza 
 oryzivora.) It is the commonly received opinion 
 that they are male and female of the fame fpecies, 
 i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yel- 
 lowifh clay coloured one the female : the lafl men- 
 tioned appearing '^only in ths autumn, when the 
 
 oryzj^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 2^^ 
 
 oryza zlzania are about ripening, yet in my opinion 
 there are fome ftrong circumftances which feem to 
 operate againll fuch a conjeclure, though generally 
 believed. 
 
 In the fpring, about the middle of May, the 
 black pied rice bird (which is called the male) ap- 
 pears in Pennfylvania ; at that time the great yel- 
 low ephemera, called May tly, and a fpccies of 
 Iccufla appear in incredible multitudes, the favorite 
 delicious food of thefe birds, when they are fpright- 
 ly, vociferous, and pleafmgly tuneful. 
 
 When I was at St. Augufline, in E. Florida, in 
 the beginning of April, the fame fpecies of grafs- 
 hoppers were in multitudes on the fields and com- 
 mons about the town ; when great flights of thefe 
 male .rice birds fuddenly arrived from the South, 
 which by feeding on thefe infecls became e::tremely 
 fat and delicious : they continued here two or three 
 weeks, until their food became fearer, when they 
 difappeared, I fuppofc purfuing their journey North 
 after the locufta and ephemera ; there were a few 
 of the yellow kind, or true rice bird, to be feen 
 amongft them. Now thefe pied rice birds feem 
 to obferve the fame order and time in their migra- 
 tions Northerly, with the other fpring birds of paf- 
 fage, and are undoubtedly on their way to their 
 breeding place ; but then there are no females with 
 them, at leafl not one to ten tlioufand of the male 
 colour, which cannot be fuppofcd to be a fiiiiicient 
 number^to pair and breed by. Being in Charleftou 
 in the month of June, I obferved at a gentleman's 
 door, a cage full of rice birds, that is of the yellow 
 cr female colour, who were very merry and vo- 
 ciferous, having the fame variable mufic ^yith the 
 
 pied 
 
i9^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 pied or male kind, which I thought extraordinary, 
 and obferving it to the gentleman, he aflured me 
 that they were all of the male kind, taken the pre- 
 ceding Ipring, but had changed their colour, and 
 would be next fpring of the colour of the pied, 
 thus changing colour with the feafons of the year. 
 If this is really the cafe, it appears they arc both of 
 the fame fpecies intermixed, fpring and fall. In the 
 fpring they are gay, vocifeiuus and tuneful birds. 
 
 Ampelis garrulus ; crown bird or cedar bird, 
 Thefe birds feed on various forts of fucculent fruit 
 and berries, affociating in little flocks or flights, 
 and are to be feen in all the regions from Canada 
 to New Orleans on the Miflifllppi, and how much 
 farther South and South-Weft I know not. They 
 obferve no fixed time of appearance in Pennfyl- 
 vania, but are to be feen in a few days every month 
 of the year ; fo that it is diflicult to determine at 
 what feafon they breed, or where, The longeft 
 period of their appearance in Pennfylvania is in the 
 ipring and firft of June, at the time the early cher- 
 ries are ripe, when they are numerous ; and in the 
 autumn v,'hen the Cedar berries are ripe (Juniperus 
 Americana ; thev arrive in large flights, and, with 
 the robins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump 
 (parus cedrus) foon ftrip thofe trees of their berries, 
 after which they difappear again ; but in November 
 and December they appear in fmaller flights, feed- 
 ing on the fruit of the Perfimon fDyofpyros Vir- 
 gimana ;) and fome are feen till March, fubfifting 
 upon Smilax berries. Privet (Liguftrum vulgare) 
 and other permanent fruits ; after which they dif- 
 appear until May and June. I have been informed 
 by fome people in Pennfylvania, that they have 
 found their nefts at thefe feafons in Pennfylvania. 
 
 Linariii 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 297 
 
 Linaria cirls (emberiza clris Linn.) or painted 
 finch, or nonpareil of Catcfby, is not feeu North 
 of Cape Fear, in North Carolina, and feldoni ten 
 miles from the fea coafl:, or perhaps twenty or 
 thirty miles, near the banks of great rivers, in 
 fragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium) 
 Zanthcxylon, Laurus Bovbonia, Calline, Sider- 
 oxylon. Sec, 
 
 Linaria cyanea (tanagra Linn.) the blue linnet, 
 isfuppofedby fome to be the nonpareil, in an early 
 flage of life, not being yet arrived to his brilliancy 
 and variety of colours ; but this is certainly a mii- 
 take, for the blue linnet is longer and of a ilenderer 
 configuration, and their notes more variable, vehe- 
 ment and fonorous. And they inhabit the continent 
 and fea coafl iilands from Mexico to Nova Scotia, 
 from the fea coaft. Weft beyond the Apalachean 
 and Cherokee mountains. The fongs of the non- 
 pareil are remarkably low, foft and warbling, ex- 
 ceedingly tender and foothing. 
 
 Catefby, in his hiftory of^ Carolina, fpeaking of 
 the cat-bird (mufcicapa vertice nigro) fays, " They 
 have but one note, which refembles the mewing 
 of a cat ;" a miftake very injurious to the fame of 
 that bird ; he, in reality, being one of our mofl 
 eminent fongfters, little inferior to the philomela 
 or mock-bird ; and, in fome remarkable inflances, 
 perhaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a butl. 
 toon or mimick. He endeavours to imitate every 
 bird and animal, and in many attempts does not ill 
 fucceed, even in rchearfing the fongs, which he at- 
 tentively liftens to, from the fliepherdefs and rural 
 fwain ; and will endeavour and fucceed ^o admira- 
 tion, in repeating the melodious and variable airs 
 from inftrumental mufic, and this in his wild ftate 
 
 of 
 
29?> , TRAViil.S INT 
 
 of nature. They are a kind of domeftic bird 
 during their fpring and fummer refidence in Pennfyl- 
 viinia, building their nells in gardens and fheltering . 
 ihemlelvcs in groves near the houfes. They caufe 
 great trouble and vexation to hens that have broods 
 of chickens, by imitating their diilreffing cries, in 
 v.hich they feem to enjoy much delight, and caufe 
 fome amufcmcnt to perlons who are diverted at fuch 
 incidents. They are the fir ft bird heard fmging in 
 trie morning, even before break of day. 
 
 They feem to be a tribe of birds feparated by 
 nature from the motacilla:, with which the zoologifts 
 liave clalfed them, and appear allied to a tribe pe- 
 culiar to America, to which Edwards has eiven the 
 name of manakin. In their nature they feem to 
 take place between the thrufh (turdus) and mota- 
 cilla* their beak being longer, ftronger, and ftraighter 
 than the moLacilla, and formed for eating fruit, 
 which is their chief food ; yet they will feed on rep« 
 tile infecls, but never attempt to take their prey on 
 the wing. 
 
 Catefby is chargeable with the like miftake with 
 refpect to the little thrufn (t. minor) and the fox; 
 coloured thrufli t. rufus both eminent fingers, and 
 the latter little inferior to the mock-bird. The 
 former for his (lirill, fonorous and elevated (trains 
 in the high, fhady forefts ; and the latter for vari- 
 ety, foftnefs and conftant refponfes in the hedges 
 and groves near hcufes. 
 
 But yet Catefliy has fome right of claim to our 
 excufe and juftification, for his detradion of the 
 fame due to thefe eminent muficians of the groves 
 and forefts, when we confider that he refided and 
 jnade his colleftions and obfervations, in the regi- 
 
 ' " ■ o^s 
 
NORTH AMERICA. s.gg 
 
 ons which are the winter retreats and refidence of 
 thefe birds, where they rarely fmg ; as it is obferva- 
 ble and moft true, that it is only at the time of incu- 
 bation, that birds fmg in their wild (late of nature. 
 The cat-bird, great and lefs thrufli and fieldfare, 
 feldom or never build in Carolina beneath the moun- 
 tains, except the great or fox coloured thrufli in a 
 few inflances ; but all thefe breed inPennfylvania. 
 
 The pari^keets (pfitacus Carolinienfis) never 
 reach fo far North as Pennfylvkinia, which to me is 
 unaccountable, confidering they are a bird of fuch 
 fingularly rapid flight, that they could eafily perform 
 the journey in ten or twelve hours from North Caro- 
 lina, where they are very numerous, and we abound 
 with all the fruits which they delight in. 
 
 I was afiiired in Carolina, that thefe birds, for a 
 month or two in the coldefl: winter weather, houfi 
 themfclves in hollow Cyprefs trees, clinging fafl: to 
 each other like bees in^a hive, where they continue 
 in a torpid llate until the warmth of the returnin'^ 
 fpring reanimates them, when they ifllie forth fron^ 
 their late dark, cold winter cloifler.-;. But I lived 
 feveral years in North Carolina and never was wit- 
 jiefs to an inftance of it ; yet I do not at all doubt 
 but there have been inflances of belated flocks thu.> 
 furprifed by fudden fevere cold, and forced into fuch 
 flielter, and the extraordinary feverity and perfeve- 
 rancc of the feafon might have benumbed them into 
 a torpid, fleepy flate ; but that they all willingly 
 Ihould yield to fo difagreeable and hazardous a fiiu- 
 ation does not feem reafonable or natural, when we 
 confider that they are a bird of the fwifteft flio-ht and 
 impatient of fevere cold. They are eafily'^tamed 
 when they become docile and familiar, but never 
 Jeainto imitate the human language. 
 
 Both 
 
300 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Both fpccles o^ the Bahlmore bird (orlolus, Linn, 
 icterus, Cat.j are fpring birds of paflage and breed 
 in Pennfylvania ; thty have loud and mcifical notes. 
 
 The yellow breafted chat (oenanthe, Cat. mota- 
 cilla trochilus, Linn.) is in many inftances a very 
 lingular bird ; the variablenefs and mimickry of his 
 notes or fpeech, imitating various creatures ; and 
 a furprifmg faculty of utrering a coarfc, hollow 
 founding noife in their throats or crops, which at 
 times feems to be at a great di (lance, though ut- 
 tered by a bird very near, and vice verfa. They 
 arrive in Pennfylvania from the South, late in the 
 jnonth of May, breed and return again early in ^lu* 
 tumn. 
 
 It is a matter of enquiry, what fnould have indu- 
 ced the zoologifts to clafs this bird with the motacil- 
 l<c, when they difcover no one chara£leriftic to in- 
 duce fuch an alliance ; this bird having a remarks- 
 able thick, ilrong bill-, more like the frugivorous 
 tribes : and in my opinion they are guilty of the like 
 overfight in claffing the fummer red-bird with the 
 mufcicapa, this bird having a thick, ftrong bill, ap^ 
 preaching nearer the ftarling (fturnus.) 
 
 Thefe hiftorical obfervations being noted, wewll} 
 again rcfutne the fubjed of our journey. 
 
 GHAP, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 331 
 
 L 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 After the predatory band of Shninoles, undler 
 the condu6\ of the Long Warrior, had decamped, 
 Mr. M'Latche invited me with him on a vifit to an 
 Indian town, about twelve miles diftance from the 
 trading-houfe, to regale ourfelves at a feaft of Wa- 
 ter Melons and Oranges, the Indians having brought 
 a canoe load of them to the trading-houfe the day 
 preceding, which they difpofed of to the traders. 
 This was a circumflance pretty extraordinary to me, 
 it being late in September, a ieafon of the year when 
 the Citruels are ripe and gone in Georgia and Caro- 
 lina ; but here the weather yet continued hot and 
 fultry, and confequently this cool, exhilarating- 
 fruit was flill in high reUih and cltimalion. 
 
 After breakfafting, having each of us a Siminole 
 horfe completely equipped, we fat oif : the ride 
 was agreeable and varioufly entertaining. W'e 
 kept no road or pathway conftanily, but as Indian 
 hunting tracks by chance fuited our courfe, riding 
 through high open, pine forclls, green lawns and 
 flowery favannas in youthful verdure and gaity, 
 having been lately burnt, but now overrun with a 
 green enamelled carpet, chequered with hommocks 
 of trees of dark green foliage, interfected with fer- 
 pentine rivulets, their banks adorned with fhrub- 
 beries of various tribes, as Andromeda formoxilTima, 
 And. nitida, And. viridis, And. calyculata. And. 
 axillaris, Kalmia fpuria, Annona alba, &:c. About 
 noon we arrived at the town, the fame little village 
 
 I pafled 
 
302 TRAVELS IH 
 
 I paffed by on my afcent of the river, on the banks 
 ot the little lake below Chariotia. 
 
 We were received and entertained friendly by the 
 Indians, the chief of the village conducing us to a 
 grand, airy pavilion in the centi-e of the village. It 
 was four-fquare ; a range of pillars or polls on each 
 fide fupporting a canopy compofed of Palmetto 
 leaves, woven or thatched together, which fhaded a 
 level platform in the centre, that was afcended to 
 from each fide by two fleps or flights, each about 
 twelve inches high, and feven or eight feet in 
 breadth, all covered with carpets or mats, curioufly 
 woven of fplit canes dyed of various colours. Here 
 being feated or reclining ourfelves, after fmoaking 
 tobacco, bafkets of the choiceft fruits were brought 
 and fet before us. 
 
 The fields furrounding the towns and groves were 
 plentifully ilored with Corn, Citruels, Pumklns, 
 Squalhes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs, 
 Oranges, &c. 
 
 Towards evening we took our leave, and arrived 
 at the (lores before night, having in the courfe of 
 the day coUefted a variety of curious fpecimens of 
 vegetables, feeds and roots." 
 
 The company being bufily employed in forming 
 their packs of leather and loading the veffel, and I 
 bein^- eager to augment my colledions during my 
 itay here, 1 eroded the river with a gang of our 
 people, who were tranfporting a party of horfes 
 to rano-e in the meadows and plains on the fide oppo- 
 fite to the trading-houfe ; we carried them over in 
 a lar^e fiat or fcow. The river was here above a 
 mile wide, but divided into a number of flreams by 
 
 numerous 
 
NORTH AMERICA. JC^ 
 
 numerous iflands, which occafioned the voyage to 
 be very troublefome, as mofl: of the horfes were 
 lately taken wild out of their ranges, and many of 
 them young and untutored. Being under the necef- 
 fity of pafling near the points of the iflands, they 
 grew relHefs and impatient to land, and it was with 
 great difficulty we kept them on board ; and at lalt, 
 when within a quarter of a mile of the oppofite 
 fhore, palling between two iflands, the horfes be- 
 came ungovernable, and moft of tliem plunged into 
 the river and forced over board one of our people. 
 I being a pretty good fwimmer, in the midfl of the 
 buftle, and to avoid being beat over and perhaps 
 wounded, leapt out and caught hold of the dock of 
 one of the horfes. We all landed fafe on one of 
 the iflands, about one hundred and fifty yards dif- 
 tance, and the flat followed us. After a deal of 
 trouble and lofs of time, we got the horfes again 
 into the fchow, where fecuring them by withs and 
 vines, we again fat off, and foon landed fafe on the 
 main, at a high bluft' or bank of the river, where, 
 after turning the horfes to pallure, and rclling our- 
 felves, we fat off on a vifit to a plantation en the 
 river, fix or eight miles dift:ance. On the way thither 
 we difcovered a bee tree, which we cut down, and 
 regaled ourfelves on the dehcious honey ; leaving 
 one of our companions to protecl the remainder un- 
 til our return with a tub, to colled it and carrv it 
 with us ; and in the evening we all returned fafe 
 with our fweet booty to the trading-houfe. 
 
 The veflfel being loaded and ready to depart, I 
 got all my coUedions on board. My trulty and 
 iortunate bark I prefented to the old interpreter. 
 Job AViggens, of'eu my travelling companion, 
 
 friend 
 
3*4- TRAVELS IN 
 
 friend and benefactor ; and taking an affedlionate 
 and final leave of the worthy C. M'Latche and the 
 whole trading company, we fet fail in a neat little 
 fchooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the laft of 
 September. We had a pleafant and profperous 
 voyage down the grand river St. Juan*s, frequently 
 vifiting the plantations on the banks of the river, 
 efpecially at fuch times as oppofed by contrary 
 winds ; and according to promife did not negleft 
 calling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marfliall 
 who received me fo politely, and treated me with 
 fuch unparalleled friendfhip and hofpitality, when 
 afcending the river alone laft fpring. 
 
 We never once went out to fea during the 
 voyage ; for when we had defcended the river be- 
 low the Cow -ford, we entered the found by a chan- 
 nel between Fort George ifland and the main, 
 through which we palFed, and continued failing be- 
 tween the fea coaft iflands and the main to Frederica 
 on St. Simon's. 
 
 On my arrival at Frederica, I was again, as ufual, 
 friendly received and accommodated by the excel- 
 lent John Spalding, Efq. ; and here learning that the 
 honourable Henry Lawrens, Efq. had a large fhip 
 loading at Sunbury for Liverpool, I determined to 
 embrace fo favourable an offer for conveying my 
 collections to Europe j and hearing at the fame time 
 that Mr. Lawrens was dally expeded in a vefTel of 
 his own, at his plantations on Broton Ifland and 
 New Hope, in order to take a loading of rice for 
 the cargo of the fliip at Sunbury, I tranfported my 
 collections to Broton ; where meeting with Mr. 
 Lawrens, he gencroufly permitted me to put my 
 things on board his veflcl, and gave me room with 
 
 himfelf 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 305 
 
 himfelf In the cabin ; and the merchant in Liverpool, 
 to whom the fhip was configned, being his frlend- 
 and correfpondcnt, and a IViend of Dr. Fothergill's, 
 Mr. Lawrens propofed to recommend my collec- 
 tions and letters to his care. 
 
 Thefe favourable circumftances thus co-operating, 
 after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patrons 
 in thefe parts, I embarked on board this veifel, and 
 after a fhort and pleafant paiTage through the found, 
 arrived at Sunbuvy, from whence, after fliipping my 
 colledions, 1 fet fail again for Charlefton, South 
 Carolina ; where being arrived, I fpent the feafon 
 in fhort excurfions until next fpring ; and during 
 this time of my recefs I had lelfure to plan my fu- 
 ture travels, agreeably to Dr. FothergiU's inftruc- 
 tions, and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmers 
 of Charlefton, with other gentlemen of that city, 
 eminent for the promotion of fcience and encou- 
 raging merit and induflry. 
 
 It was agreed that my future rout fhould be di- 
 tched Weft and South- Weft, into the Cherokee 
 country and the regions of ths Mufcogulges-or 
 Creeks. 
 
 JOURNAL 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF THE 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 April 2 ad, 1776, I fat off from Charlertoil 
 for the Cherokee nation, and after riding this day 
 about twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening at 
 Jackfonfhurg, a village on Ponpon river. The next 
 day's journey was about the fame diftance, td a 
 public houfe or inn on the road. 
 
 The next day, early in the morning, I fat off 
 again, and about noon flopped at a public houfe to 
 dine. Afrer the meridian heats were abated, pro- 
 ceeding on till evening, I obtained good quarters at 
 a private houfe, having rode this day about thirty 
 miles. At this plantatiqn I obferved a large orchard 
 of the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba) fome 
 of which were grafted on Itocks of the native Mul- 
 berry (Morus rubra) ; thefe trees were cultivated 
 for the purpofe of feeding filk-worms (phalaena 
 bombyx). Having breakfafted, I fat forward again. 
 
 I foon 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 307 
 
 I foon entered a high foroft, conunuing the fpace 
 of fifteen miles to the Three Sifters, a public ferry 
 on Savanna river : the country generally very 
 level ; the foil a dark, loofe, fertile mould, on a 
 itratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay j the 
 ground fhaded with its native forefts, confi fling of 
 the great Black Oak, Quercus tindoria, Q^ rubra, 
 (^ phellos, CX prinos, Q^ hemifphcrica, Juglans 
 nigra, J. ruftica, J. exaltata. Magnolia grandiflora, 
 Fraxinus excelfior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendron 
 tulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Morus rubra, 
 NylTa fylvatica, Platanus occidentaUs, Tilia, Uhnus 
 campcftrisj U. fubifer, Laurus AiiVafras, L. Borbo- 
 nia, Ilex aquifolium, Fagus fylvatica, Cornus Flo- 
 rida, Halefia, iEfculus pavia, Sambucus, Callicar- 
 pa, and Stewartia malachoJendron, with a variety 
 of other trees and flirubs. This ancient fublime 
 foreft, frequently interfcded with extenfive ave- 
 nues, viftas and green lawns, opening to extenfive 
 favannas and far diftant Rice plantations, agreeably 
 employs the imagination, and captivates the fenfes 
 by fcenes of magnificence and grandeur. 
 
 The gay mock-bird, vocal and joyous, mounts 
 aloft on filvcred wings, rolls over and over, then 
 gently defcends, and prefides in the choir of the 
 tuneful tribes. 
 
 Having dined at the ferry, I croflfed the river 
 into Georgia : on landing and afcending the bank, 
 which has here a North profped, I obferved the 
 Dirca paluftris, growing fix or feven feet high. I 
 rode about twelve miles further through Pine Fo- 
 refts and favannas. In the evening I took up my 
 quarters at a delightful habitation, though not a 
 common tavern. Having ordered my horfe a (ta- 
 ble and provender, and refreflied my fpirits with a 
 X 3 draught 
 
30^ Travels in 
 
 draught of cooling liquor, I betook myfelf to con- 
 templation in the groves and lawns. Direfting my 
 fteps towards the river, I obferved in a high Pine 
 foreft on the border of a favanna, a great numbet 
 of cattle herded together, and on my nearer ap- 
 proach difcovered it to be a cow pen ; on my com- 
 ing up 1 was kindly faluted by my hofl and his 
 wife, who I found were fuperintending a number 
 of Haves, women, boys and girls, that were milk- 
 ing the cows. Here were about forty milch cows 
 and as many young calves ; for in thefe Southern 
 countries the calves run with the cows a whole 
 year, the people milking them at the fame time. 
 The pen, including two or three acres of ground, 
 more or iefs, according to the {\ock, adjoining a 
 rivulet or run of water, is enclofed by a fence : in 
 this enclofure the calves are kept while the cows 
 are out at range : a fmall part of this pen is par- 
 titioned off to receive the cows, when they come 
 up at evening : here are feveral flakes drove into 
 the ground, and there is a gate in the partition 
 fence for a communication between the two pens. 
 When the milkmaid has taken her fliare of milk, 
 ilie loofes the calf, who ftrips the cow, which is 
 next morning turned out again to range. 
 
 I found thefe people, contrary to what a travel- 
 ler might, perhaps, reafonably expeft, from their 
 occupation and remote fituation from the capital or 
 any commercial town, to be civil and courteous ; 
 and though educated as it were in the woods, no 
 itrangers to fenfibility, and thofe moral virtues 
 which grace and ornament the mofl approved and 
 admired characters in civil fociety. 
 
 After the vefTels were filled with milk, the daily 
 and liberal fupply of the friendly kinej and the 
 
 good 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 3O9 
 
 good wife, "with her maids and fervants, were re- 
 turning with it to ths dairy ; the gentleman was at 
 leifure to attend to my inquiries and obibrvations, 
 which he did with complaifance, and apparent plea- 
 fure. Oa my obferving to him that his flock of 
 horned cattle mufl: be very confiderable to affbrl 
 fo many milch cows at one time, he anfwered, that 
 he had about fifteen hundred head : " my ftock is 
 but young, having lately removed from fome dif- 
 tance to this place ; I found it convenient to pa!t 
 vvith mofl of my old ftock and begin here anew ; 
 Heaven is pleafed to blefs my endeavours and in- 
 dullry with fuccefs even beyond my own expecta- 
 tions." Yet continuing my interrogatories on this 
 fubje6l : your ftock I apprehend mufl be very pro- 
 fitable, being fo convenient to the capital and fea 
 port, in afibiding a vafl quantity of beef, butter and 
 cheefe, for the market, and mufl thereby contribute 
 ffieatly towards your emolument : " yes, I find my 
 ilock of cattle very profitable, and I conftantly con- 
 tribute towards fupplylng the markets with beef, 
 but as to the articles of butter and cheefe, I make 
 no more than w hat is expended in my own houfe- 
 hold, and I hive a confiderable family of black 
 people, who, though they are flaves, mull be fed, 
 and cared for : thofe I have, were either chofen for 
 their good qualitits, or born in the family, and I 
 fmd from long experience and obfervaiion, that the 
 better they are fed, ciotliei] and treated, the more 
 fervlce and profit we may "xpecl to derive from 
 their labour : in fhort, I find my flock produce.'? no 
 more milk, or any article of food or npuriilimenr, 
 than what is expended to tb.e b^ll advantage amongll 
 my family and ilaves/' 
 
 He added, come along with me towards (he river 
 bank, where I have fome men at work fquaring 
 
 Pine 
 
310 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Pine and Cyprefs timber for the Weft-India market ; 
 1 \vill (liow you their days work, when you will rea- 
 dily grant that I have reafon to acknowledge my- 
 felf lufficiently gratified for the little attention be- 
 llowed towards them. At yonder little new habi- 
 tation near the bluff on the banks of ihe river, I 
 have fettled my eldell: fon ; it is but a few days fince 
 he was married to a deferving young woman. 
 
 Having at length arrived near the high banks of 
 the majefiic Savanna, we flood at the timber land- 
 ing : almofl every object in our progrefs contri- 
 buted to demonflrate this good man's fyftem of 
 economy to be not only pradicable but eligible -y 
 and the flaves appeared on all fides as a crowd of 
 witneiTes to jullify his induftry, humanity and libe« 
 ral fpirit. 
 
 The flaves comparatively of a gigantic flature, 
 fat and mufcular, were mounted on the maflive 
 timber logs ; the regular heavy flrokes of their 
 gleaming axes re-echoed in the deep forefls; at the 
 fame time, contented and joyful, the footy fons of 
 Afric forgetting their bondage, in chorus fung the 
 virtues and beneficence of their mafler infongs of 
 their own compofition. 
 
 The log or timber landing is a capacious openi 
 area, the lofty pines* having been felled and clear- 
 ed away for a confiderable diftance round about, 
 near an almofl perpendicular bluff or fleep bank 
 of the river, rifmg up immediately from the water 
 to the height of fixty or feventy feet. The logs 
 being dragged by timber wheels to this yard, an4 
 
 * Pinus paluftrls, Linio the long leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow Pine. 
 
 landed 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 3II 
 
 landed as near the brink of this high bank as pof- 
 fible with fafety, and laid by the fide of each other, 
 are rolled off and precipitated down the bank into 
 the river, where being formed into lafts, they are 
 conducted by flaves down to Savanna, about fifty 
 miles below this place. 
 
 Having contemplated thefe f.enes of art and in- 
 duftry, my venerable hoft, in company with his ion, 
 condui^led me to the neat habitation, which is fitu- 
 atcd in a fpacious airy forefl, a little dillance from 
 t'le river bank, commanding a comprehenfive and 
 varied profpetSl ; an extenfive reach of the river in 
 front ; on the right hand a fpacious lawn or fiivan- 
 na j on the left the timber yard j the vaft fertile 
 low lands and forefts on the river upwards ; and the 
 plantations adjoining. A cool evening arrived after 
 a fultry day. As we approach the door, conducted 
 by the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in na- 
 tive innocence and becoming modefiy, with an air 
 and fmile of grace and benignity, meets and falutes 
 us ! what a Venus ! what an Adonis ! faid I in filent 
 tranfport ; every action and feature feem to reveal 
 the celeftial endowments of the mind : though a 
 native fprightUnefs and fenfibility appear, yet virtue 
 and difcretion direct and rule. The drefs of this 
 beauteous fylvan queen was plain but clean, neat 
 and elegant, all of cotton, and of her own fpinning 
 and weaving. 
 
 Next morning early I fat forward profecuting 
 my tour. 1 purfued the high road leading from 
 Savanna to Augufta for the diftance of one hundred 
 miles or more, and then rccroffed the river at Sil- 
 ver Bluff, a pleafant villa, the property and feat of 
 G. Golphin, efquire, a gentleman of very diftin- 
 
 guilhed 
 
312 * TRAVELS IN 
 
 guiflied talents and great liberality, who poffefTcd 
 the moft extenfive trade, connexions and influence, 
 amongfl the Souch and South- Weft Indian tribes, 
 particularly with the Creeks and Chadaws ; of 
 whom I fortunately obtained letters of recommen- 
 dation and credit to the principal traders refiding in 
 the. Indian towns. 
 
 Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place. It is a 
 coufiderable height upon the Carolina fhore of the 
 Savanna river, perhaps thirty feet higher than the 
 low lands on* the oppofite (hore, which are fubjeft 
 to be ov(=rflowed in the fpring and fall. This deep 
 bank *iies perpendicularly out of the river, diicover- 
 ing various ftrata of earth ; the furface for a confi- 
 derable depth is a loofe fandy loam, with a mixture 
 of fea Ihells, efpecially oilrcse ; the next flratum is 
 clay, then fand, next marl, then clays again of vari- 
 ous colours and qualities, which lali infenfibly mix 
 or unite with a deep flratum of blackifl:; or dark 
 Hate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, which 
 iecms to be of an aluminous or vitiiolic quality, 
 and lies in nearly horizontal lamina or ftrata of va- 
 rious thicknefso We difcovered bellemnites, pyrites, 
 marcafites and fulphureous nodules, fnining like 
 brafs, feme fmgle of various form.s, and others con- 
 glomerated, lying in this black Haty-like micaceous 
 earth ; as alio IHcks, limbs and trunks of trees, 
 leaves, acorns, and their cups, all tranfmuted or 
 changed black, hard and fhining as charcoal : we 
 alfo fee animal fubftances, as if petrified, or what 
 are called ftiarks' teeth, (dcntes carchavia:) ; but 
 thefe heterogeneous fubftances or petrifaOions are 
 the moft abundant and confpicuous where there is a 
 loafer kind of earth, either immediately upon this 
 vafl ftr-tituni of blacb eanh, or in the divifipns of 
 
 the 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 313 
 
 the hmin<e. The furface of the ground upon this ■ 
 blu0^, extends a mile and a half or two miles 
 on the river, and is from an half mile to a mile in 
 bieauth, nearly levelj and a good fertile foil ; as i$ 
 e\ident from the vaft Oaks, Hickory, Mulberry, 
 Black walnut and other trees and fhrubs, which are 
 left Handing in the old fields which are fpread 
 abroad to a great dillance ; and difcovers various 
 monuments and vedigcs of the refidence of the 
 ancicrj'.s ; as Indian conical mounts, terraces, areas, 
 £vc. as well as remains or traces of fortrefl'es of re- 
 gular formation, as if confhufted after the modes of 
 European military architecrs, which are fuppofed 
 to be ancient camps of the Spaniards who formerly. 
 iixed themielves at this place in iiupes of finding fil- 
 ver. 
 
 But perhaps Mr. Golphin's buildings and improve- 
 ments will prove to be the foundation of monuments, 
 of infinitely greater celebrity and permanency than 
 either of the preceding efiabiiflmients. 
 
 The place which at this day is called fort Moore, 
 is a fiupendous bluff, or high perpendicular bank 
 of earth, rifing out of the river on the Carolina 
 fliore, perhiips ninety or one hundred feet above the 
 common furface of the water ; and exhibits a fingu- 
 lar and pleafing fpet^acle to a flranger, efpecially 
 from the oppcfite Ihore, or as we pafs up or down 
 the river, prefenting a view of prodigious walls of 
 party-coloured earths, chicHy clays and marl of va- 
 rious colours, as brown, red, yellow, blue, purple, 
 white, &c. in hcrizontal Itratay one over the 
 other. 
 
 Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over, 
 I walked almofl round the under fide of the bluff, 
 beluixt its flcep w^ll and the water of the river, 
 
 which 
 
3.14 TRAVELS In 
 
 which gUded rapidly under my feet. I came to the 
 Ciircafe of a calf, which the people told me had 
 fallen down from the edge of the precipice above, 
 being invited too far by grafs and fweet herbs, 
 which they fay frequently happens at this place. In 
 early times, the Carolinians had a fort, and kept a 
 good garrifon here as a frontier and Indian trading 
 pod ; but Augufta faperfeding it, this place was dif- 
 mantled : and fmce that time, which probably can- 
 not exceed thirty years, the river hath fo much en- 
 croached upon the Carolina (hore, that its bed now 
 lies where the fite of the fort then was : indeed 
 fome told me that the oppofite Georgia fhore, 
 where there is now a fine houfe and corn field, occu- 
 pies the place. 
 
 The fite of Augufla is perhaps the moft delight- 
 ful and eligible of any in Georgia for a city. An ex- 
 tenfive level plain on the banks of a fine ' navigable 
 river, which has its numerous fources in the Chero- 
 kee mountains, a fruitful and temperate region, 
 whence after roving and winding about thofe fertile 
 heights, they meander through a fertile hilly 
 country, and one after another combine in forming 
 the Tugilo and Broad rivers, and then the famous 
 Savanna river; thence they continue near an hundred 
 miles more, following jts meanders and falls over 
 the catarads at Augufla, which crofs the river at 
 the upper end of the town. Thefe falls are four or 
 five feet perpendicular height in the fummer feafou 
 when the river is low. From thefe catarafts up- 
 wards, this river with all its tributarieSj as Broa4 
 river. Little River, Tugilo, &c. is one continued 
 rapid, with fome Ihort intervals of flill water, na- 
 vigable for canoes. But from Augufta downwards to 
 the ocean, a diftance of near three hundred miles 
 
 by 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 315 
 
 by water, the Savanna uninterruptedly flows with 
 a gentle meandring courfe, and is navigable for vef- 
 fels of twenty or thirty tons burthen to Savanna, 
 where fhips of three hundred tens lie in a capacious 
 and fecure harbour. 
 
 Augufta thus feated at the head of navigation, 
 and juft below the conflux of feveral of its moft 
 copifiderable branches, without a competitor, com- 
 mands the trade and commerce of vafl: fruitful 
 regions above it, and from every fide to a great 
 diilance : and I do not hefitatc to pronounce as my 
 opinion, v.ill very foon become the metropolis of 
 Georgia.* 
 
 I chofe to take this route up Savanna river, in 
 preference to the ftraight and fliorter road from 
 Charleft:on to the Cherokee country by fort Ninety 
 Six, bccaufe by keeping near this great river, I had 
 frequent opportunities of vifuing its fteep banks, 
 vaft fwamps and low grounds ; and had the advan- 
 tage without great delay, or deviating from the 
 main high road, oF obferving the various foils and 
 fituatlons of the countries through which this fa- 
 mous river purines its courfe, and of examining their 
 various productions, mineral, vegetable and aniinal: 
 whereas had I purfued the great trading path by 
 Ninety fix, I fliould have been led over a high, dry, 
 fandy and gravelly lidge, and a great part of the 
 diftance an old fettled or reforted part of the coun- 
 try, and confequcntly void of the varieties of origi- 
 nal or novel produtTlions of nature. 
 
 Before I leave Augufta, I fliall recite a curious 
 phenomenon, which may furnifli ample matter for 
 
 " A fiW years after the above remark, the feat of gov^rnment was re-' 
 movr<! from Savanna to Aujfuila. 
 
 philofophical 
 
31 6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 philofophlcal difcuffion to the curious naturalifts. 
 On the Georgia fide of the river, about fifteen miles 
 below Silver Bluff, the high road croffes a ridge of 
 high fwelling hills of uncommon elevation, and 
 perhaps feventy feet higher than the furface of the 
 river. Thefe hills, from three feet below the com- 
 mon vegetative furface, to the depth of twenty or 
 thirty feet, are compofed entirely of foffil oyfter 
 {hells, internally of the colour and confiftency of 
 clear white marble ; the fhells are of incredible 
 magnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches in 
 length, from fix to eight wide, and two to four in 
 thicknefs, and their hollows fufficient to receive an 
 ordinary man's foot : they appear all to have been 
 opened before the- period of petrifaction, a tranfmur 
 tation they feem evidently to have fuffered ; they 
 are undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps antidelu- 
 vian. The adjacent inhabitants burn them to lime 
 for building, for which purpofe they ferve very 
 well ; and would undoubtedly afford an excellent 
 ^nanure when their lands require it, thefe hills be- 
 ing now remarkably fertile. The heaps of fhells lie 
 upon a ftratum of a yellowifh fandy mould, of feve- 
 ral feet in depth, upon a foundation of foft white 
 rocks, that has the outward appearance of free-ftone, 
 but on ftrid examination is really a teftaceous con- 
 crete or compofition of fand and pulverifed fea 
 fnells : in fhort, this teftaceous rock approaches near 
 in qualiry and appearance to the Bahama or Bermu- 
 dian white rock. 
 
 Thefe hills are fiiaded with glorious Magnolia 
 grandifiora, Morus rubra, Tiha, Quercus, Uhnus, 
 Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragrant 
 CalHcanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum, 
 Laurus Indica, kc. iEfculus pavia, Cornus Flo- 
 rida, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^IJ 
 
 rida, Azalea coccinea, Philadelphus inodorus and 
 others ; but who would have expected to fee die 
 Dirca paluflris and Dodecatheon meadea grow in 
 abundance in this hot cHmate! it is true they are 
 feen in the rich and deep fliaded vales, between the 
 hills and North expofure ; but they attain to a de- 
 gree of magnitude and fplendour never feen in Penn- 
 fylvania. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
31$ TRAVELS i^^ 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 After conferring with gentlemen in Augufla^ 
 converfant in Indian affairs, concerning my future 
 travels in thofe diflant, unexplored regions, and 
 obtaining letters to their agents in the Indian ter- 
 ritories, I fet off, proceeding for Fort James Dart- 
 mouth, at the confluence of Broad River with 
 Savanna, the road leading me near the banks of the 
 river for the diftance of near thirty miles, crofling 
 two or three of its confiderabie branches, befides 
 rivulets and fmaller brooks. The furface of the 
 land uneven, by means of ridges or chains of fwell- 
 ing hills and correfponding vales, with level downs ; 
 the foil a loofe, grayifh-brown loamy mould on the 
 hills, but darker and more cohefive and humid in the 
 vales and downs ; this fuperficiat, vegetative earth, 
 covers a deep ftratum of very tenacious yellowilh 
 clay : the downs afford grafs and various herbage ; 
 the vales and hills, forefl trees and fhrubs of various 
 tribes, i. e. Quercus tindoria, (^alba, Q^ rubra, (^ 
 lobata, Acer rubrum, A. Saccharinum, A. glaucum, 
 Merus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Juglans hickory, 
 various fpecies, Quercus philos, C)uer dcntata, f. 
 hemifpherica, Quercus aquatica, or Maryland 
 Water Oak, Uimus fylvatica, Liriodendron, Li- 
 quid-amber Diofpyros, Cornus Florida, Prunus In- 
 dica, Prunus padus and i^fculus pavia ; and, near 
 water courfes in the vales, Stewartia malachoden- 
 dron, Halefia, iEfculus fylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus, 
 Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripetala, Mag. auri- 
 culata, Azalea, kc. The rich humid lands in the 
 vales borderhig on creeks and bafes of the hills, 
 likewife produce various trees, flirubs and plants, 
 as Cercis, Corylus, Pttba, Evonimus, Philadelphus 
 
 inodorus. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 315 
 
 ifiodorus, Staphylea trifoliata, Chionanthus, Ha-» 
 mamelis, Callicarpa, Sambucus, Cornus alba, Vi- 
 burnum dentatum, Spirea opulifolia, Cornus fan- 
 guinea, Cephalanthus, 6cc. and of herbacse a vaft 
 variety and abundance, as Verbcfina, Rudbeckia, 
 Phafeolus, Tripfacum, Aconituin napeilus, Delphi- 
 nium, Angelica lucida, Tradefcantia, Trillium fef- 
 {i\e Trillium cernuum, Aetata, Chelone, Glycine, 
 apios, Convalliaria racemofa, Mediola, Carduus, 
 Bidens frondofa. Arum tryphillum, Corcopfis alter- 
 nifolia, Circaea, Commelina, Alter, Solidago, Eu- 
 patorium, Helianthus, and Silphium, together with 
 a variety of other tribes and fpecies new to me. In 
 the evening 1 arrived at Little river, and took up my 
 quarters at a public houfe on its banks, near its 
 confluence with the favanna. This is a beautiful ra- 
 pid water, about fifty yards over. On a branch pf 
 this river is fituated the town of Wrightfborough, 
 
 Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I firfl 
 obferved a very curious flirub, a beautiful ever- 
 green, which appears to be allied to the Rhodo- 
 dendron, though the feed veffels feem to bear more 
 the charaderiftics of the Kalmia. This fhrub grows 
 in copfes or Uttle groves, in open, high fituarions, 
 "where trees of large grov^^th are but fcatteringly 
 planted ; many fimple flcms arife together from a 
 root or fource erett, four, five and fix feet high ; 
 their limbs or branches, which are produced to- 
 wards the top of the ftems, alfo ftand nearly ered, 
 lightly diverging from the main flems, which are 
 furnilhed with moderately large ovate pointed in- 
 tire leaves, of a pale or yellowifli green colour ; 
 thefe leaves are of a firm, compad texture, both 
 lurffces fmooth and lliining, and ftand nearly ered 
 
 upon 
 
52a TRAVELS ur 
 
 upon fhort petioles ; the branches terminate with 
 long, loofe panicles or fpikes of white flowers, whofe 
 fegments ar!^ live, long and narrow. 
 
 I arcfe ear!y next morning and continued my 
 journey for Foit James. This day*s progrefs v/as 
 agreeably entertaining, from the novelty and vari- 
 ety of objecis and views : the wild country now al- * 
 nioft depopulated, vaft forefts, expanfive plains and 
 detached groves ; then chains of hills whofe gra- 
 velly, dry.; barren fummits prefent detached piles of 
 rocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and ex- 
 pe6lations of the folitary traveller, full fure of 
 hofpitable habitadons ; heaps of white, gnawed 
 bones of the ancient buftaloe, elk and deer, indif- 
 criminately mixed with thofe of men, half grown 
 over with mofs, altogether, exhibit fcenes of un- 
 eultivated nature, on reflection, perhaps, rather 
 difagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and fen- 
 fibility, fmcc fome of thefe objects recognize pail 
 tranfadions and events, perhaps not altogether re- 
 concileable to juflice and humanity. 
 
 How harmonious and fweetly murmur the purl- 
 ing rills and fleeting brooks, roving along the 
 fhadowy rales, pafl^nig through dark, fubterranean 
 caverns, or dafhing over fteep rocky precipices, 
 their cold humid banks condenfmg the volatile va- 
 pours, v/hich falling coalefce in cryftalllne drops, on 
 the leaves and elafl:ic twigs of the aromatic ihrubs 
 and incarnate flowers ! In thefe cool, fequeflered, 
 rocky vales, we behold the following celebrated 
 beauties of the hills, fragrant Calycanthus, blulh- 
 ing Rhododendron ferrugineum, delicate Phila- 
 delphus inodorus, which difplays the white wavy 
 mantle, with the fky robed Delphinium, perfumed 
 
 Convallaria 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 32I 
 
 Convallaria and fiery Azalea, flaming on ihe af- 
 cending hills or wavy furface of the gliding brooks. 
 The epithet fiery, I annex to this mod celebrated 
 fpecies of Azalea, as being exprellive of the appear- 
 ance of its flowers, which are in general or the co- 
 Jour of the finefl red lead, orange and bright gold, 
 as well as yellow and cream colour ; thefe various 
 fplendid colours are not only in feparate plants, but 
 frequently all the varieties and fliades are feen in 
 feparate branches on the fame plant ; and the cluf- 
 ters of the bloifoms cover the Ihrubs in fuch incre- 
 dible profufion on the hill fides, that fuddenly open- 
 ing to view from dark fliades, we are alarmed with 
 the apprehenfion of the hill being fet on fire. This 
 is certainly the moft gay and brilliant flov/ering 
 fhrub yet known : it grows in little copfes or 
 clumps, in open forefl:s as well as dark groves, with 
 other flirubs, and about the bafes of hills, efpecially 
 where brooks and rivulets wind about them : the 
 buflies feldom rife above fix or feven feet in height, 
 and generally but three, four and five, but branch 
 and fpread cheir tops greatly ; the young leaves are 
 but very fmall whilH the flirubs are in bloom, from 
 which circumflance the plant exhibits a greater fliow 
 of fplendour. 
 
 Towards evening I croffed Broad river at a good 
 ford, jufl: above its confluence with the Savanna, 
 and arrived at Fort James, which is a four fquare 
 llockade, with faliant bafl:ions at each angle, mount- 
 ed with a block-houfe, where are fome fwivel guns, 
 one fl;ory higher than the curtains, which are pier- 
 ced with loop-holes, breafl: high, and defended by 
 fmall arms. The fortification enclofes about an 
 acre of ground, where is the governor's or comman- 
 dant's houfe, a good building, which is flanked on 
 each fide by builJings for the cfiicers and barracks 
 
 Y for 
 
322 TRAVELS IN 
 
 for the garrifon, confifling of fifty ranges, Including 
 oiEcers, each having a good horfe well equipt, a 
 rifle, two dragoon piftols, and a hanger, befides a 
 powder horn, ihot pouch and tomahawk. The fort 
 ilands on an eminence in the forks between the Sa- 
 vanna and Broad rivers, about one mile above Fort 
 Charlotta, which is fituated near the banks of the 
 Savanna, on the Carolina fide. Fort James is fitu- 
 ated nearly at an equal diftance from the banks of 
 the two '-ivers, and from the extreme point of the 
 land that feparates them. The point or peninfula 
 between the two rivers, for the diftance of two miles 
 back from the fort, is laid out for a town, by the 
 name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl of Dart- 
 mouth, who, by his intereft and influence in the 
 Britifii councils, obtained from the king a giant and 
 powers in favour of the Indian trading company of 
 Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the ceflion of a 
 quantity of land fuflicient to difcharge their debts to 
 the traders, for the fecurity and defence of which 
 territory this fortrefs was eltablifhed. 
 
 This territory, called the New Piirchafe, con- 
 tains about two millions of acres, lying upon the 
 head of great Ogechee, between the banks of the 
 Savanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Occone, 
 and taking within its precincts all the waters of 
 Broad and Little rivers ; comprehending a body of 
 excellent and fertile land, well watered by innume- 
 rable rivers, creeks and brooks. 
 
 I made a little excurfion up the Savanna river, 
 four 01* five miles above the fort, with the furgeon 
 of the gariifon, who was fo polite as to attend me 
 to fhow me fome remarkable Indian monuments, 
 which are worthy of every traveller's notice. Thefe 
 wonderful labours of the ancients (land in a level 
 
 plain. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 323 
 
 plain, very near the bank of the river, now twenty 
 or thirty yards from it. They confift of conical 
 mounts of earth and four fquare terraces, &zc. The 
 great mount is in the form of a cone, about forty or 
 fifty feet high, and the circumference of its bafe two 
 or three hundred yards, entirely compofcd of the 
 loamy rich earth of the low grounds : the top or 
 apex is flat : a fpiral path or track leadin/j from the 
 ground up to the top is flill vifible, where now grows 
 a large, beautiful fpreading Re^ Cedar (Juniperus 
 Americana) : there appear four niches, excavated 
 out of the fides of thiis hill, at different heights 
 from the bafe, fronting the four cardinal points ; 
 thefe nitches or ccntry boxes are entered into from 
 the winding path, and f^tm to have been meant for 
 refting places or look-outs. The circumjacent level 
 grounds are cleared and planted with Indian Com 
 at prefent ; and I think the proprietor of thefe lands, 
 who accompanied us to this place, fald that the 
 mount itfelf yielded above one hundred bufliels in 
 one feafon : the land hereabouts is indeed exceed- 
 ing fertile and producllN e. 
 
 It Is altogether unknown to us, v>'fiat could have 
 induced the Indians to ralfe fuch a heap of earth in 
 this place, the ground for a great fpace around be- 
 ing fubjcd to inundations, at leaft once a year, 
 from which circumftance we may conclude ^hey 
 had no town or fettled habitations here. Some Ima- 
 gine thefe tumuli were conftruded for look-out 
 towers. It Is reiTonable to fuppofe, however, that 
 they were to ferve fome important purpofe in thofe 
 days, as they were public works, and v/ould have 
 required the united labour and attention of a who'e 
 nation, circumftanccd as they were, to have con- 
 flrucled one of them almofl in an iwe. There are 
 
 Y 2 feveral 
 
324 TRAVELS IN 
 
 .feveral lefs ones round about the great one, with 
 fome very large tetragon terraces on each fide, near 
 one hundred yards in length, and their furface four, 
 fix, eight and ten feet above the ground on which 
 they ftand. 
 
 We may however hazard a conjefture ; that as 
 there is generally a narrow fpace or ridge in thefe 
 low lands, immediately bordering on the river's 
 bank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the ad-* 
 joining low grounds, that lie betwixt the dream and 
 the heights of the adjacent main land, which, when 
 the river overflows its banks, are many feet under 
 water, when, at the fame time, this ridge on the 
 river bank is above water and dry, and at fuch in- 
 undations appears as an ifland in the river ; thefe 
 people might have had a town on this ridge, and 
 this mount raifed for a retreat and refuge in cafe of 
 inundations, vv^hich are unforefeen and furprize thenx 
 very fuddenly, fpring and autumn. 
 
 Having finiflied my colledllons and obfervations, 
 which were extended to a confiderable diftance in 
 the environs of Dartmouth ; May i oth fat off 
 again, proceeding for Keowe ; rode fix or eight 
 miles up the river above the fort ; crofled over into 
 Carolina and foon got into the high road ; but had 
 not proceeded far, when I was furprifcd by a fudden 
 very heavy fhowcr of rain, attended with terrific 
 thunder, but luckily found prefent iliclter at a farm 
 lioufe, where I continued above an hour before 
 its fury abated ; when I proceeded again, and not- 
 withftanding this detention and obftacles in confe- 
 quence of the heavy rains in raifing the creeks, tra- 
 velled thirty five miles, and arrived in the evening 
 at Mr. Cameron's, deputy commiffary for Indian 
 affairs for the Cherokee nation, to whom I was re- 
 commended 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 325 
 
 commended by letters from the honourable John 
 Stewart, fuperintendant, refiding at Charlefton, 
 mentioning my bufmefs in the Cherokee country. 
 
 The road this day had led me over an uneven 
 country, its furface undulated by ridges or chains 
 of hills, fometimes rough with rocks and ftoncs, yet 
 generally produiSlive offorells, with a variety of ve- 
 getables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, various 
 fpecies, Juglans hickory, varieties, Liriodendron, 
 Fraxlnus, Fagus fylvatica, Fagus caftanea, Fagus 
 pumila, f. Chinkapin, Nyfla Sylvatica, Acer ru- 
 brum, yEfculus fylvatica, Magnolia acuminata. 
 Magnolia tripetala, Andromeda arborea, llopea 
 tinctoria, .^.fculus pavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea 
 ^nd other fpecies ; Hydrangea, Calycanthus, &c. 
 
 The feafon being uncommonly wet, almofl: daily 
 fhowers of rain, frequently attended with tremen- 
 dous thunder, rendered travelling difagreeable, toil- 
 fome and hazardous, through an uninhabited wll- 
 dernefs, abounding with rivers and brooks. I was 
 prevailed upon bv Mr. Cameron to flay at his houfe 
 a few days, until the rains ceafed and the rivers could 
 be more eafily forded. 
 
 The angelica lucida or nondo grows here in 
 abundance ; its aromatic carminative root is in tafle 
 much like that of the Ginfeng (Panax) though more 
 of the tafte and fcent of Anife feed ; it is in high 
 eftimation with the Indians as well as white inha- 
 bitants, and fells at a great price to the Southern 
 Indians of Florida, who dwell near the fea coafl 
 where this never grows fpontaneouily. I obferved 
 a charming fpecies of Malva, having panicles of 
 large fpkndid purple or deep blue flowers ; and an- 
 other fpecies of Malva, very fmgular indeed, for 
 
 it 
 
326 TRAVELS IN 
 
 k is a climber ; the leaves are broad, which, with 
 the whole plant, are hoary ; the flowers are very 
 finall, and of a greenifh white. Here gross s alfo in 
 abundance a beautiful fpecies of Delphinium ; the 
 flowers differ in no refpect from thofe of the corn- 
 man branching Larkfpur of the gardens ; they arc 
 of a fine deep blue colour, and difpofed in long 
 fparied fpikes ; the leaves arc compound, almolt 
 linear, but the fegments not fo fine cut as thofe of 
 the garden Larkfpur. 
 
 The weather now fettled and fair, I prepared to 
 proceed for Fort Piince George Keowe, having ob- 
 tained of the agreeable and liberal Mr. Cameron, 
 ample teftimonials and letters of recommendation to 
 the traders in the nation : this gentleman alfo very 
 obligingly fent a young negro Have to afTid and pilot 
 me as far as Seneca. 
 
 May 15th I left Lough-abber, the feat of Mr. 
 Cameron. In the courfe of this day's journey I 
 croffed feveral rivers and brooks, all branches of the 
 Savanna, now called Keowe, above its confluence 
 with the Tugilo, the Weft main branch. The face 
 of the country uneven, by means of ridges of hills 
 and water couries ; the hills fomev.hat rocky near 
 their fummits and at the banks of rivers and creeks, 
 but very fertile, as there is a good depth of a loofe 
 dark and molt vegetative mould, on a ftratum of 
 reddifli brown tenacious clay, and fomctimcs a deep 
 flratum of dufl^y brown marl. The vegetable pro- 
 ductions obferved during this day's progrefs, were 
 generally the fame as already recited fmce leaving 
 Dartmouth. The flaming Azaleas abound, and illu- 
 minate the hill fides; and a new and fmgularly 
 beautiful fpecies of A'TcuIus pavia, fituated above 
 them, tov.ards the fummits of chefe low hills. This 
 
 confpicuoufly 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 327 
 
 confplcuoufly beiiutiful flowering flirub, grows to 
 the height of five or fix feet ; many divergent crook- 
 ed Oems arife together from a root or fource, which 
 dividing their branche^^ wreath about every way, 
 after a very irregular and free order ; the exterior 
 fubdivifions of thefe Hnibs terminate with a heavy 
 clufter or thyrfis of rofe or pink coloured Howers, 
 fpeckled or variegated with crimfon, larger, more 
 expanfive and regular in their formation than thofe 
 of the Pavia ; and thefe heavy fpikes of flowers, 
 charged with the morning dews, bend the flender 
 flexile ftems to the ground : the compound leaycs 
 :ire of the configuration of thofe of the Pavia, but 
 broader and their veins more prominent. The 
 fhrubs growing about the tops of the more barren 
 grafl*y hills, where large trees are few and fcattered, 
 (how thenifelves to great advantage, and make a 
 fine appearance. 
 
 There are abundance of Grape vines (Vltis vlni- 
 fera) which ramble and fpread themfelves over 
 the fhrubs and low trees in thefe fituations, and I 
 v-'as aflured produced fruit affording an excellent 
 juice : the grapes are of various colours when ripe, 
 of the figure and about the fize of the European 
 wine grapes. Arrived at Sinica in the evening, af- 
 ter travelling foity live miles through an uninhabited 
 wildernefs. 
 
 The Cherokee town of Sinica Is a very refpe^a- 
 ble fettlement, fituated on the Eafl bank of the Kc- 
 owe river, though the greatefl number of Indian 
 habitations are on the oppofite flioic, v/here like- 
 wife ftands the council-houfe, in a level plain be- 
 twixt the river and the raiige of be?.uiiful lofty hills, 
 .which rife magnificently, and feem to bend over 
 the green plains and the river : but th^ chief's boufe, 
 
 with 
 
32S TRAVELS IN 
 
 with thofe of the traders, and fome Indian dwelliftgs, 
 are feated on the afcent of the heights on the oppo- 
 fite lliore. This fituation in point of profped 
 far excels the other, as it overlooks the whole fet- 
 tlement, the extenfive fruitful plains on the river 
 above and below, and the plantations of the inhabi- 
 tants, commanding a moil comprehenfive diverfi- 
 fied. view of the oppofite elevations. 
 
 Sinica is a new town rebuilt fmce the late Indian 
 war, when the Cherokees were vanquifhed and com- 
 pelled to fue for peace, by General Middleton, 
 commander of the CaroHnian auxilaries ading 
 agai'nfl them, when the lower and middle fetdements 
 were broken up : the number of inhabitants are now 
 eilimated at about five hundred, and they are able 
 to mufter about one hundred warriors. 
 
 Next day I left Sinica alone, and after riding 
 about fixteen miles, chiefly through high forefls of 
 excellent land at a little diltance from the river, ar- 
 rived in the evening at fort Prince George Keowe. 
 
 Keowe is a mod charming fituation, and the ad- 
 jacent heights are naturally fo formed and difpofed, 
 as with little expence of military architefture to be 
 rendered almoll impregnable. It lies in a fertile 
 vale, at this feafon enamelled with the incarnate 
 fragrant flrawberries and blooming plants, through 
 which the beautiful river meanders, fometimes gently 
 flowing, but more frequently agitated, gliding 
 fwiftly between the fruitful flrawberry banks, envi- 
 roned at various diflances by high hills and moun- 
 tains, fome rifmg boldly almofl upright upon the 
 verge of the expanfive lawn, fo as to overlook and 
 fliadow it, whilfl others more lofty, fuperb, miily 
 and blue, majeftically mount far above. 
 
 The 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 329 
 
 The evening ftill and calm, all filent and peace- 
 able, a vivifying gentle breeze continually wafted 
 from the fragrant (trawberry fields, and aromatic 
 Calycanthean groves on the furrounding heights ; 
 and the wary moor fowl thundering in the diflant 
 echoing hills : how the groves and hills ring with 
 the ihrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-will ! 
 
 Abandoned as my fituatlon now was, yet thank 
 heaven many objefts met together at this time, and 
 confpired to conciliate, and in feme degree com- 
 pofe my mind, heretofore fomewhat dejeded and 
 unharmonized : all alone in a wild Indian country-, 
 a thoufand miles from my native land, and a vafl 
 diflance from any feitlemcnts of white people. It 
 is true, here were fome of my own colour, yet they 
 were ftrangcrs ; and though friendly and hofpitablc, 
 their manners and cuPcoms of hving fo diflerent 
 from what I bad been accuftomed to, adminiftered 
 but little to my conlolation : fome hundred miles 
 yet to travel ; the favage vindictive inhabitants late- 
 ly ill-treated by the frontier Virginians ; blood be* 
 ing Ipilt between them and the injury not yet wiped 
 away by formal treaty : the Cherokees extremely 
 jealous of white people trarelhng about their 
 mountains, efpecially if they fliould be feen peep- 
 ing in amongft the rocks, or digging up their 
 earth. 
 
 The vale of Keowe is feven or eight miles in ex- 
 tent, that is, from the little town of kulfage * about 
 a mile above, thence down the river fix or feven 
 miles, where a high ridge of hills on each fide of 
 the river almolt terminates the vale, but opens ao-ain 
 below the narrow ridge, and continues ten or twelve 
 
 * Sugar Towi;. 
 
 fnilcs 
 
330 TRAVELS IN 
 
 miles down to Sinica, and in width one and two 
 miles. This fertile vale within the remembrance of 
 fome old traders with whom I converfed, was one 
 continued fettlement ; the fweUing fides of the ad- 
 joining hills were then covered with habitations, 
 and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the ri- 
 ver, was cultivated and {slanted, which now exhibit 
 a very different fpeclacle, humiliating indeed to 
 the prefent generation, the pofterity and feeble re- 
 mains of the once potent and renowned Cherokees : 
 the veftiges of the ancient Indian dwellings are yet 
 vifible on the feet of the hills bordering and front- 
 ing on the vale, fuch as polls or pillars of their ha- 
 bitations, &c. 
 
 There are fcveral Indian mounts or tumuli, and 
 terraces, monuments of the ancients, at the old fite 
 of Keowe, near the fort Prince George, but no In- 
 dian habitations at prefent ; ?nd here are feveral 
 dwellings inhabited by white people concerned in 
 the Indian trade : Mr. D. Homes is the principal 
 trader here. 
 
 The old fort Prince George now bears no marks 
 of a fortrefs, but ferves for a trading houfe. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 331 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 I waited two or three days at this poft expedino- 
 the return of an Indian who was out hunting. This 
 man wat recommended to me as a fui table perfon 
 for a protector and guide to the Indian fettlenients 
 over the hills ; but upon information tliat he would 
 not be in fliortly, and there being no other perfon 
 fuitable for the purpofe, rather than be detained, 
 and perhaps thereby fruflrated in my purpofes, I 
 determined to fee off alone and run all rifks. 
 
 T crofled the river at a good ford juft below the 
 old fort. The river here is near one hundred yards 
 over. After an agreeable progrefs for about two 
 miles over delightful ftrawberry plains, and gently 
 fwelling green hills, I began to afcend more fleep 
 and rocky ridges. Having gained a very con- 
 fidcrable elevation, looking around, I enjoyed a 
 very comprehcnfive and delightful view : Keowc 
 "\vhich I had but juft lofl: fight of, appeared again, 
 and the ferpentine river fpeeding through the lucid 
 green plain apparently juft under my feet. After 
 obferving this delightful landfcap.?, I continued on 
 again three or four miles, keeping the trading path, 
 which led uie over uneven rocky land, crolling rivu- 
 lets and brooks, and rapidly defcending over rocky 
 precipices ; when I came into a charming vale, em- 
 beilifiied with a delightful glittering river, which 
 meandered througli it, and crolfed my road. On mv 
 leh hand, upon'the graffy bafes of the rifing hills, 
 appeared the rem.iins of a town of the ancients, as 
 
 the 
 
'^'^Z TRAVELS IN 
 
 the tumuli, terraces, pods or pillars, old Peach and 
 Plumb or chards, he. fufiiciently tellify. Thefe 
 vales and fvvelling bafes of the lurrounding hills, 
 afford vail crops ol" excellent grafs and herbage fit 
 for paflurage and hay ; of the latter, Plantago Vir- 
 ginica, Sangaiforba, Geum, Fragaria, &c. The 
 Panax quinquefolium, or Ginfeng, now appears 
 plentifully on the North expofure of the hill, grow- 
 ing out of the rich mellow humid earth amongft 
 the iiioues or fragments of rocks. 
 
 Having crofled the vales, I began to afcend again 
 the more lofty ridges of hills ; then continued about 
 eight miles over more gentle pyramidal hills, nar- 
 row vales, and lawns, the foil exceedingly fertile, 
 producing lofty forefts and odoriferous groves of 
 Calycanthus, near the banks of rivers, with Halefia, 
 Philadelphus inodorus, r».hododendron ferrugineum, 
 Azalea, Stewartia montana"'^, fol. ovatis acuminatis 
 iertatis, flor. niveo, ftaminum corona fulgida, peri- 
 carp, pomum exfuccum, apice acuminato dehifcens, 
 C'ornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and de- 
 corated vv'ith the following fweet roving climbers, 
 Bignonia fempervirens, Big. crucigera, Lonicera 
 fciupervirens, Rofa paniculata, &:c. 
 
 Nov/ at once the mount divide j and difclofe to 
 .view the ample Occonne vale, encircled by a 
 wreath of uniform hills ; their fwelling bafes clad 
 in cheerful verdure, over which, iiTuing from bc- 
 tvrcen the mountains, plays along a glittering river, 
 mer.ndeiing through the meadows. Croffing thefe 
 at the upper end of the vale, I began to afcend the 
 Occonne mountain. On the foot of the hills are 
 
 '^ This ■;-. 3 r/^vi fpecic; of Stcwarfla, unknown to the European bota- 
 >.''.":•, ■.:n\ nor uiciuioncd in auy catuiajvies. 
 
 ruin^i 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 333 
 
 ruins of the ancient Occonne town. The firfl ftep 
 after leaving the verdant beds of the hills, was a 
 very high rocky chain of pointed hills, extremely 
 well timbered with the followin;^ trees : Quercus 
 tinftoria, Querc. alba, f^icic. rubra, Fraxinus ex- 
 celfior, Ju^^lans hickory, various fpecies, Ulmus, 
 Tilia, Acer faccharinuni, Morus, Juglans nigra, 
 Juglans alba, Annona glabra, Robinia pfeudacacia. 
 Magnolia acuminata, 7Efculu> fylvatica, with many 
 more, particularly a fpecies of Robinia new to mc, 
 though perhaps the fame as figured and flightly 
 defcribed by Catelby in his Nat. Hift. Carol. This 
 beautiful flowering tree grows twenty and thlity feet 
 high, with a crooked leaning trunk ; the branches 
 fpread greatly, and wreath about, fome almoll 
 touching the ground ; however there appears a 
 fmgular pleafing wildnefs and freedom in its man- 
 ner of growth ; tlie flender fubdivifions of the 
 branches terminate with heavy compound panicles 
 of rofe or pink coloured ilowers, amidll a wreath 
 of beautiful pinnated leaves. 
 
 My next flight was up a very high peak, to the 
 op of the Occonne mountain, where I refled ; and 
 turning about, found that I was now in a very ele-r 
 vated O.tuation, from whence I enjoyed a view in- 
 exprefiibly magnificent and comprehenfive. The 
 mountainous wildernefs which I had lately tra- 
 verfed, down to the region of Augufla, appear- 
 ing regularly undulated as the great ocean after a 
 temped ; the undulations gradually deprellmg, yet 
 perfeftly regular, as the fquama of lifli, or imbri- 
 cations of tile on a roof: the nearell ground to me 
 of a per fed full green ; next more glaucous ; and 
 hUhr abiofl: blue as the ether with v/hich the 
 
 moi 
 
 (f 
 
334 TRAVELS IN 
 
 mod dlftant curve of the horizon feemed to be 
 blended. 
 
 My imagination thus wholly engaged in the con- 
 templation of this magnificent landfcape, infinitely 
 varied, and without bound, I was almoft infenfible 
 or regardlefs of the charming objecls more within 
 my reach : a new fpecies of Rhododendron fore- 
 moft in the aflembly of mountain beauties ; next 
 the flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnate 
 Robinia, fnowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus, 
 perfumed Calycanthus, &;c. 
 
 This fpecies of Rhododendron grows fix or feven 
 feet high ; many nearly ereft ftems arife together 
 from the root, forming a group or coppice. The 
 leaves are three or four inches in length, of an 
 oblong figure, broadefl toward the extremity, and 
 terminating with an obtufe point ; their upper fur- 
 face of a deep green and polifned ; but the nether 
 furface of a rufly iron colour, which feems to be 
 effeded by innumerable minute reddifh veficles, 
 beneath a fine ihort downy pubefcence ; the nu- 
 merous flexile branches terminare with a loofe 
 fpiked raceme, or clu'ler of large deep rofe co- 
 loured flowers, each flower being affixed in tlie 
 dift'ufcd clufl:er of a long peduncle, which, with the 
 whole plant, pofleffes an agreeable perfume. 
 
 After being recovered of the fatigue and labour 
 in afcending the mountain, I began again to pro- 
 fecute my taflc, proceeding through a fhady forefl: ; 
 and foon after gained the moft elevated crefl: ofahe 
 Occonne mountain, and then began to defcend the 
 other fide ; the winding rough road carrying me 
 over rocky hills and levels, fliaded by incomparable 
 forefts, the foil exceedingly rich, and of an excel- 
 lent 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^35 
 
 lent quality for the produclion of every vegetable 
 fuited to the clunate, and feening peculiarl/ adapt- 
 ed for the cultivation of Vines (Vitis vinifera), 
 Olives (Olea Europea), the Almond tree (Amyg- 
 dalus communis), Fig (Ficus carica), and perhaps 
 the Pomgranate, (Punica gianatum), as well as 
 Peaches (Amyg. Perfica), Prunus, Pyrus, of every 
 variety. I palfed again fleep rocky afcents, and 
 then rich levels, where grew many trees and plants 
 common in Pennfylvania, New- York and even 
 Canada, as Pinus Ihobus, Pin. fylvefl:! is, Pin. abies. 
 Acer faccharinum, Acer flriatum, f. Pennfylvani- 
 cum, Populus tremula, Betula nigra, Juglans alba, 
 Sec. ; but what feems remarkable, the yellow Jef- 
 famine (Bignonia fempervirens), which is killed by 
 a very llight frofl in the open air In Pennfylvania, 
 here, on the fummits of the Cherokee mountains 
 aflbciates with the Canadian vegetables, and ap- 
 pears roving with them in perre-wl bloom and gaiety ; 
 as likewife Ilalefia diptera, and Hal. tetraptera, 
 mountain Stewartia, Styrax, Ptclea, ^EQ:ulus pavia ; 
 but all thefe bear our hardell frolts in Pennfylvania. 
 Now I enter a charming narrow vale, through 
 which flows a rapid large creek, on whofe banks 
 are happily allociaced the llirubs already recited, 
 together with the following; Staphykea, Euoni- 
 mus Americana, Hamamelis, Azalea, various fpe- 
 cies, Ariltolochia frutefcens, f. odoratiffima, which 
 rambles over the trees and llrrubs on the piolilic 
 banks of thefe mountain brooks. Paffed throucrh 
 magnificent high forefls, and then came upon the 
 borders of an ample meadow on the lefr, embroi- 
 dered by the fliade of a high circular amphitheatre 
 of hills, the circular ridges rifing magnificently one 
 over the other. On the green turfy bafes of thefe 
 afcents appear the ruins of a town ot the ancients. 
 
 The 
 
33^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 The upper end of this fpaclous green plain is 
 divided by a promontory or Ipur of the ridges be- 
 fore me, which projeds into it : my road led me 
 up into an opening of the afcents through which 
 the ghttering brook uliich watered the meadows 
 ran rapidly down, dafhing and roaring over high 
 rocky fteps. Continued yet afcending until I 
 gained the top of an elevated rocky ridge, when 
 appeared before me a gap or opening between 
 other yet more lofty afcents, through which con- 
 tinued as the rough rocky road led me, clofe by 
 the winding banks of a large rapid brook, which at 
 length turning to the left, pouring down rocky pre- 
 cipices, glided off through dark groves and high 
 forells, conveying ftreams of fertility and pleafure 
 to the fields below. 
 
 The furface of the land now for three or four 
 miles is level, yet uneven, occafioned by natural 
 mounds or rocky knobs, but covered with a good 
 flaple of rich earth, which aftbrds forefts of timber 
 trees and fhrubs. After this, gently defcending 
 again, I travelled fome miles over a varied fituation 
 of ground, exhibiting views of grand forefts, dark 
 detached groves, vales and meadows, as heretofore, 
 and producing the like vegetable and other works 
 of nature ; the meadows alfording exuberant paf- 
 turage for cattle, and the bafes of the encircling 
 hills, flowering plants, and fruitful ftrawberry beds : 
 obferved frequently ruins of the habitations or vil- 
 lages of the ancients. Croffed a delightful river, 
 the main branch of Tugilo, when I began to afcend 
 again, firft over fwelling turfy ridges, varied with 
 groves of (lately foreft trees ; then afcending again 
 more fteep grafly hill fides, refted on the top of 
 mount Magnolia, which appeared to me to be the 
 higheft ridge of the Cherokee mountains, which 
 
 feparate 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 337 
 
 feparate the waters of Savanna river from thcTe of 
 thcTanafe or greater main branch of the Cherokee 
 river. This running rapidly a North- Weft courfe 
 through the mountains, is joined from the North- 
 Eaft by the Holftein ; thenqe taking a Weft courfe 
 yet amongft the mountains, receiving into it from 
 either hand many large rivers, leaves the mountains 
 immediately after being joined by a large river 
 from the Eaft, becomes a mighty river by the 
 name of Hogchege, thence meanders many hun- 
 dred miles through a vaft country confifting of 
 forefts, meadows, groves, expanfive favannas, fields 
 and fwelling hills, moft fertile and delightful, flows 
 into the beautiful Ohio, and in conjundion with its 
 tranfparent waters, becomes tributary to the fove» 
 reign Mifliflippi. 
 
 This exalted peak I named mount Magnolia, 
 from a new and beautiful fpecies of that celebrated 
 family of flowering trees, which here, at the caf- 
 cades of Falling Creek, grows in a high degree of 
 perfeftion : I had, indeed,, noticed this curious tree 
 feveral times before, particularly on the high ridges 
 betwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on afcending the 
 firlt mountain after leaving Keowe, when I ob- 
 fcrvcd it in flower, but here it flouriflies and com- 
 mands our attention. 
 
 This tree *, or perhaps rather fhrub, rifes 
 eighteen to thirty feet in height ; there are ufually 
 many ftems from a root or iburce, which lean a 
 little, or flightly diverge from each other, in this 
 refpeft imitating the Magnolia tripetala ; the 
 crooked wreathing branches arifmg and fubdividing 
 from the main ftem without order or uniformity, 
 
 • Magnolia auriculata. 
 
 Z their 
 
33^ Travels in 
 
 their extremities turn upwards, producing a very 
 large rofaccous, perfedlly white, double or polype 
 talous flower, which is of a moft fragrant fcent ; this 
 fine flower fits in the centre of a radius of very large 
 leaves, which are of a fingular figure, fomewhat 
 lanceolate, but broad towards their extremities, ter- 
 minating with an acuminated point, and backwards 
 they attenuate and become very narrow towards 
 their bafes, terminating that way with two long, 
 narrow ears or lappets, one on each fide of the in- 
 fertion of the petiole ; the leaves have only fhort 
 footlbJks, fitting very near each other, at the ex- 
 tremities of the floriferous branches, from whence 
 they fpread themfelves after a regular order, like 
 the fpokes of a wheel, their margins touching or 
 lightly lapping upon each other, form an expanfive 
 umbrella fuperbly crowned or creflied with the 
 fra!:rrant flower, reprefenting a white plume ; the 
 blolTom is fucceedjd by a very large crimfon cone 
 or fl:robile, containing a great number of fcarlet 
 berries, which, when ripe, fpring from their cells 
 and are foi a time fufpended by a white filky web 
 or thread. The leaves of thofe trees which grow 
 in a rich, light humid foil, when fully expanded 
 and at maturity, are frequently above two feet in 
 length and fix or eight inches where broadefl:. I 
 difcovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, par- 
 ticularly on the banks of the Alatamaha, another 
 new fpecies of Magnolia, \vhofe leaves were nearly 
 of the figure of thole of this tree, but they were 
 much lefs in fize, not more than fix or feven inches 
 in length, and the ftrobile very fmall, oblong, fharp 
 pointed and of a hne deep crimfon colour ; but 1 ne- 
 ver fav/ the flower. Thefe trees grow fiiraight and 
 erect, thirty feet or more in height, and of a fliarp 
 conical form, much refembling the Cucumber tree 
 (Mag. acuminata) in figure. ^ 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 339 
 
 The day being remarkably warm and fultry, . 
 together with the labour and fatigue of afccncing 
 the mountains, made me very thirfly and in foma 
 degree funk my fpirits. Now pall mid-day, I 
 fought a cool fhaded retreat, where was water for 
 rcfrefliment and grazing for my horfe, my faithful 
 flave and only companion. After proceeding a 
 little farther, defccnding the other fide of the moun- 
 tain, I perceived at fome diilance before m?, on 
 my right hand, a level plain fupporting a grand 
 high forefl and groves : the nearer I approached, my 
 fleps were the more accelerated from the flattering 
 profpect opening to view. 1 now entered upon tlie 
 verge of the dark forefl, charming folitude ! as I 
 advanced through the animating fhades, obferved 
 on the farther gra'ffy verge a fhady grove : thither 
 I direfted my lleps. On approaching thefe (liades, 
 between the ftately columns of the fuperb forefl 
 trees, prefented to view, rufhing from rocky pre- 
 cipices under the fhade of the penfile hills, the un- 
 paralleled cafcade'of Falling Creek, rolling and 
 leaping ojf the rocks : the waters uniting below, 
 fpread a broad, glittering flieet over a vaft convex 
 elevation of plain fmooth rocks, and are immedi- 
 ately received by a fpacious bafon, where trembling 
 in the centre through hurry and agitation, they 
 gently fubfide, encircling the painted ftill verge ; 
 from whence gliding fwiftly, they foon form a de- 
 lightful little river, which continuing to fiov/ more 
 moderately, is reftraiued for a moment, gently un- 
 dulating in a little lake : they then pafs on rapidly 
 to a high perpendicular fleep of rocks, from whence' 
 thefe delightful waters are hurried down with irre- 
 fiflible rapidity. I here feated myfelf on the moL^- 
 clad rocks, under the fhade of fpreading trees and 
 floriferous fragrant fhrubs, in full view of the caf- 
 cades. 
 
 Z 1 At 
 
34© TRAVELS m 
 
 At this rural retirement were aflembled a charm- 
 ing circle of mountain vegetable beauties ; Mag- 
 nolia auriculata, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Kal- 
 mia larifolia, Robinia montana, Azalea fiammula, 
 Rofa paniculata, Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus 
 inodorus, perfumed Convalaria majalis, Anemone 
 thalidlroides, Anemone hcpatica, Erythronium 
 maculatum, Leontice thalidtroides Trillium feffile, 
 Trillium cefnum, Cypripedium, Arethufa, Ophrys, 
 Sanguinaria, Viola uvularia, Epigea, Mitchella re- 
 pens, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax, Lonicera, &c. 
 Some of thefe roving beauties flroll over the 
 moiry, fhelving, humid rocks, or from off the ex- 
 panfive wavy boughs of trees, bending over the 
 floods, falute their delufive fhade, playing on the 
 furface ; feme plunge their perfumed heads and 
 bathe their flexile limbs in the filver flream ; whilll 
 others by the mountain breezes are toffed about, 
 their blooming tufts bcfpangled with pearly and 
 cryllaline dew-drops collefted from the falling 
 mifts, gliftening in the rainbow arch. Having 
 collefted fome valuable fpecimens at this friendly 
 retreat, I continued my lonefome pilgrimage. My 
 road for a confiderable time led me winding and 
 turning about the fteep rocky hills ; the defcent of 
 fome of which were very rough and troublefome, by 
 means of fragments of rocks, ilippery clay and talc : 
 but after this I entered a fpacious foreft, the land 
 having gradually acquired a more level furface : a 
 pretty graify vale appears on my right,, through 
 which my wandering path led me, clofe by the 
 banks of a delightful creek, which fometimes falling 
 over fleps of rocks, glides gently with ferpentine 
 meanders through the meadows. 
 
 After croffing this delightful brook and mead, 
 the land rifes again with fublime magnificence, and 
 
 I am 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 34I 
 
 J am led over hills and vales, groves and high 
 forefts, vocal with the melody of the feathered 
 fongfters ; the fnow-white cafcades glittering on 
 the fides of the dift ant hills. 
 
 It was now afternoon ; I approached a charming 
 vale, amidft fublimdy high forefls, awful (hades! 
 Darkncfs gathers around ; far diflant thunder rolls 
 over the trembling hills : the black, clouds with 
 augufl majelly and pov/er, move flowly forwards, 
 fhading regions of towering hills, and threatening 
 all the deftrudion of a thunder ftorm : all around 
 is now flill as death ; not a whifper is heard, but a 
 total ina^livit^y and filence feem to pervade the 
 earth ; the birds afraid to utter a chirrup, iri 
 iow tremulous voices take leave of each other, 
 feeking covert and fatety : every infeft is fiienced, 
 and nothing heard but the roaring of the approach- 
 ing hurricane. The mighty cloud now expands its 
 fable wings, extending from North to South, and 
 is driven irrefiltibly on by the tumultuous winds, 
 fpreading its livid wings around the gloomy con- 
 cave, armed with terrors of thunder and fiery fliafts 
 pf lightning. Now the lofty forefts bend low be- 
 neath its fury; theh- Hmbs and wavy boughs are, 
 tolTed about and catch hold of each other ; the 
 mountains tremble and feem to reel about, and 
 the ancient hills to be fliaken to their foundations : 
 the furious ftorm fv/eeps along, fmoaking through 
 jhe vale and .over the refounding hills : the fac^ 
 of the earth is obfcured by the deluge defcending 
 from the firmament, and I am deafened by the din 
 of the thunder. The terapeftuous fcene damps my 
 fpirits, and my horfe finks under me at the tre- 
 mendous peals, as I haften on for the plain. 
 
 The ftorm abating, I faw an Indian hunting 
 
 cabin, 
 
342 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cabin, on the fide of a hill, a very ajrreeable prof- 
 peft, efpecially in my prefent condition ; 1 made 
 up to it and took quiet pofleflion, there being no 
 one to difpute it with me except a few bats and 
 whip-poor-wills, who had repaired thither for fliel- 
 ter from the violence of the hurricane. 
 
 Having turned out my horfe in the fweet mea- 
 dows adjoining, and found fome dry wood under 
 ihelter of the old cabin, I flruck up a fire, dried my 
 clothes, and comforted myfelf with a frugal repall 
 of bifcuit and dried beef, v/hich was all the food my 
 viaticum afforded me by this time, excepting a 
 fmall piece of cheefe which I had furnilhed myl'elf 
 with at Charlefton and kept till this time. 
 
 The night was clear, calm and cool, and I reded 
 quietly. Next morning at day break 1 was awak- 
 ened and fummoned to refume my daily talk, by 
 the flirill cries of the focial night hawk and adive 
 merry mock-bird. By the time the rifing fun had 
 gilded the tops of the towering hills, the mountains 
 and vales rang with the harmonious fhouts of 
 the pious and cheerful tenants of the groves and 
 meads. 
 
 I obferved growing in great abundance in thefe 
 mountain meadows, Sanguiforba Canadenfis and 
 Heracleum maximum ; the latter exhibiting a fine 
 fhow, being rendered confpicuous even at a great 
 dillance, by its great height and fpreau, vafl: pen- 
 natifid leaves and expanfive umbels of fnow-vvhite 
 flowers. The fwelling bafes of the furrounding 
 hills fronting the meadows prefented for my ac- 
 ceptance the fragrant red jflrawberry, in painted 
 ~ beds of many acres furface, indeed I may fafely fay, 
 xnjiny hundreds. 
 
 After 
 
 ^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 343 
 
 After pafling through this meadow, the road led 
 me over the bafes ef a ridge of hills, which as a bold 
 promontory dividing the fields I had juft palled, 
 form expanfive green lawns. On thefe towering 
 hills appeared the ruins of the ancient famous town 
 of Sticoe. Here was a vait Indian mount or tu- 
 mulu-. and great terrace, on which Hood the coun- 
 cil-houfe, with banks encompaffing their circus ; 
 here were alfo old Peach and Plumb orchards ; 
 fome of the trees appeared yet thriving and fruitful. 
 Prefently after leaving thefe ruins, the vale and 
 fields arc divided by means of a fpur of the moun- 
 tains p'idv'i'-: forward : here likewife the road fork- 
 ed J the IctL-hand path co tinued up the mountains 
 to the Overhill towns : I followed the vale to the 
 right hand, and foon began again to afcend the hills, 
 riding feveral miles over very rough, flony land, 
 yielding the like vegetable produOions as hereto- 
 fore ; and defcending again gradually, by a dubious 
 winding path, leading into a narrow vale and lawn, 
 through which rolled on before me a delightful 
 brook, water of the Tanafe. I crofl'ed it and con- 
 tinued a mile or two down the meadows ; when 
 the high mountains on each fide luddenly receding, 
 difcovcred the opening of the extenfive and fruit- 
 ful vale of Cowe, through v.hich meanders the 
 head branch of the Tanafe, almoll from its fource, 
 fixty miles, following its courfe do-wn to Cowe. 
 
 I left for a little v^'hilC, the flream pafiing fwiftly 
 and foaming over its rocky bed, lafhing the fleep 
 craggy banks, and then fuddcnly fanis: from my 
 fight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rocky 
 furface of the ground. On my right hand the vale 
 expands, receiving a pretty filvery brook of water 
 
 whjcl) 
 
^^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 U'hich came haO-ily down from the adjacent hills, 
 and entered the river a little diftance before me. 
 I now turn from the heights on my left, the road 
 leading into the level lawns, to avoid the hollow 
 rocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, arching 
 over the river, through which the waters are feen 
 gliding along ; but the river is foon liberated from 
 thefe folitary and gloomy recefles, and appears 
 waving through the green plain before me. 1 con- 
 tinued feveral miles, purfuing my fcrpentine path, 
 through and over the meadows and green fields, 
 and croiung the river, which is here incredibly in-, 
 creafed in fize, by the continual acceffion of brooks 
 flowing in from the hills on each fide, dividing 
 their green turfy beds, forming them into parterres, 
 viftas and verdant fwelling knolls, profufely pro- 
 duclive of flowers and fragrant fl:rawberries, their 
 rich juice dying my horfes feet and ancles. 
 
 Thefe fwelling hills the prohfic beds on which 
 the tow^erlng mountains repofe, feem to have been 
 the common fituaticns of the towns of the ancients, 
 as appears from the remaining ruins of them yet to 
 be feen, and the level rich vale and meadows in 
 front, their planting grounds. 
 
 Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale, 
 my road leading at times clofe to the banks of the 
 river, the Azalea, Kalmia, Rhododendron, Phila- 
 delphus, &c. beautifying his now elevated fliores, 
 and painting the coves with a rich and cheerful fee- 
 nery, continually unfolding new profpecls as I tra- 
 verfe the fhores : the towering mountains feem con- 
 tinually in motion as I pafs along, pompoufly raif- 
 ing their fuperb crelts towards the lofty fkies, tra-i 
 verfmsr the far diilant horizou.- 
 
 The 
 
KORTH AMERICA. '^^ 
 
 The Tanafe is now greatly increafed from the 
 conflux of the multitude of rivulets and brooks, 
 defcending from the hills on either fide, generoufly 
 contributing to eftabliih his future fame, already a 
 fpacious river. 
 
 The mountains recede, jhe vale expands ; two 
 beautifid rivulets (tream down through lateral vales, 
 gliding in ferpcntine mazes over the green turfy 
 knolls, and enter the Tanafe nearly oppofite to each 
 other. Straight forward the expanfive green vale 
 feems yet infinite : now on the right hand a lofty 
 pyramidal hill terminates a fpur of the adjacent 
 mountain, and advances almoft into the river ; 
 but immediately after doubling this promontory, 
 an expanded wing of the vale fpreads on my right, 
 down which came precipitately a very beautiful 
 creek, which flowed into the river juft before me; 
 but now behold, high upon the lide of a diflant 
 piountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of this 
 brifk-flowing creek ; the unparalleled waterfall ap- 
 pears as a vaft edifice with cryflal front, or a field 
 of ice lying on the bofom of the hill. 
 
 I now approach the river at the fording place, 
 which was greatly fwollen by the floods of rain that 
 fell the day before, and ran with foaming rapidity ; 
 but obferving that it had fallen feveral feet per- 
 pendicular, and perceiving the bottom or bed of 
 the river to be level, and covered evenly with peb- 
 bles, I ventured to crofs over ; however I was obli- 
 ged to fwim two or three yards at the deeped chan- 
 nel of it, and landed fafely on the banks of a fine 
 meadow, which lay on the oppofite fliore, where I 
 immediately alighted and fpread abroad on the turf 
 my linen, books and fpecimens of plants, &c. to dry, 
 turned out rny fl:eed to graze and then advanced into 
 
 the 
 
34^ TRAVELS IM 
 
 the ftrawberry plains to regale on the fragrant, deli-, 
 cious fruit, welcomed by communities of the fplen- 
 did meleagris, the capricious roe-buck, and all the 
 free and happy tribes which pofTcfs and inhabit thofe 
 prolific fields, who appeared to inviie and joined 
 with me in the participation of the bountiful repaft 
 prefentcd to us from the lap of nature. 
 
 I mounted again, and followed the trading path 
 about a quarter of a mile through the fields, then 
 gently alcended the green beds of the hills, and en- 
 tered the forefls, being a point of a chain of hills 
 projecting into the green vale or low lands of the 
 rivers. This forefl continued about a mile, the fur- 
 face of the land level but rough, being covered with 
 itones or fragments of rocks, and very large, fmooth 
 pebbles of various fliapes and fizes, fome of ten or 
 fifteen pounds weight : I obferved on each fide of 
 the road many vaft heaps of thefe ftones, Indian 
 graves undoubtedly \ 
 
 After I left the graves, the ample vale foon of» 
 fered on my right hand, through the tall foreft 
 trees, charming views, which exhibited a pleafing 
 contraft, immediately out oF the gloomy (hades and 
 fcenes of death, into expanfive, lucid, green, flow- 
 ery fields, expanding between retiring hills, and 
 turfy eminences, the rapid Tanafe gliding through, 
 as a vaft ferpent milling after his prey. 
 
 My winding path now leads me again over the 
 green fields into the meadows, fometimes vifiting 
 
 * At this place was fought a bloody and decIVivc battle between thefc 
 Indians and the Carolinians, under the condudb of general Middleton, 
 when a great number of Clierokee warriors were flain, which fliook their 
 power, tsrrified and humbled them, infomuch that the)' defertcd mod of 
 their fetllements in the low countries, and betook themfelves to the moun-. 
 t^ins as lefs acceffible to the rigular forces of the white people. 
 
 th5 
 
NOR-TH AMERICA. 347 
 
 tjie decorated banks of the river, a3 It meanders 
 tlircLigh the meadows, or boldly fweeps along the 
 bafes ot the momitains, its furface receiving the 
 images remedied from the flowery banks above. 
 
 Thus was my agreeable progrefs for about fif- 
 teen miles, fmce I came upon the fources of the 
 'i'anafe, at the head of this charming vale : in the 
 evening efpying a human habitation at the foot of 
 the floping green hills, beneath lofty forefts of the 
 mountains on the left hand, and at the fame time 
 obfi-'rving a man croiring the river from the oppo- 
 fite fliore in a canoe and coming towards me, I wait- 
 ed his approach, who hailing me, I anfwered I was 
 for Cowe ; he' intreated me very civilly to call at 
 his houff, adding that he w^ould prefently come to 
 mc. 
 
 1 was received and entertained here until next 
 day with the molt perfect civility. After I had 
 dined, towards evening, a company of Indian girls, 
 inhib'tants of a village in the hills at a fmall c\K- 
 tance, called, having bafkets of flrawbcrries ; and 
 this man who kept here a trading' houfe, being 
 married to a Cheiokce woman of family, w^as in- 
 dulged to keep a flock of cattle, and his helpmate 
 being an excellent houfe -wife and a very agreeable 
 good woman, treated us with cream and ftraw- 
 berries. 
 
 Next moining after breakfafting on excellent 
 coffee, reliflied with bucanned venifon, hot corn 
 cakes, excellent butter and cheefe, fat forwards 
 3gain for Cowe, which was about fifteen miles dif- 
 t'ance, keeping the trading path which courfed 
 through the low lands between the hills and the ri- 
 Ter, now fpacious and well beaten by travellers, 
 
 but 
 
^^4^ TRAVELS IIT 
 
 but fomewhat intricate to a ftranger, from the fr«, 
 quent collateral roads falling into it horn villages 
 or towns over the hills. After riding about four 
 miles, moftly through fields and plantations, the 
 foil incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of 
 Echoe, confiding of many good houfes, well in- 
 habited. I palTed through, and continued three 
 miks farther to Nucalfe, and three miles more 
 brought me to Whatoga, Riding through this 
 large town, the road carried me winding about 
 through their Uttle plantations of Corn, Beans, &c. 
 up to the council-houfe, which was a very large 
 .dome or rotunda, fituated on the top of an ancient 
 artificial mount, and here my road terminated. 
 All before me and on every fide, appeared little 
 plantations of young Corn, Beans, &c. divided from 
 each other by narrow ftrips or borders of grafs. 
 •which marked the bounds of each one's property, 
 their habitation (landing in the midfl. Finding no 
 common high road to lead me through the town 
 I was now at a ftand how to proceed farther ; when 
 obferving an Indian man at the door of his habita- 
 tion, three or four hundred yards diftance from me, 
 beckoning me to come to him, I ventured to ride 
 through their lots, being careful to do no injury tq 
 the young plants, the rifing hopes of their labour 
 and indudry ; croffed a Httle gralfy vale watered by 
 a filver ftream, which gently undulated through ; 
 then afcended a green hill to the houfe, where I 
 was chearfully welcomed at the door, and led in by 
 the chief, giving the care of my horfe to two hand- 
 fome youths, his fons. During my continuance 
 here, about half an hour, 1 experienced the mofl 
 perfect and agreeable hofpitahty conferred on me 
 by thefe happy people ; I mean happy in their dif- 
 pofition?, in their apprehenfions of rc»5litiide ^vith 
 
 regard 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 349 
 
 regard to our fecial or moral condutl. O divine 
 fimplicity and truth, friendfliip without fallacy or 
 guile, hofpitality difinterefted, native, undefiled, 
 unmodified by artificial refinements 1 
 
 My venerable hofl: gracefully and w'ldi an air of 
 refpeiSt, led me into an airy, cool apartment ; where 
 being feated on cabins, his women brought in a re- 
 frefliing repaft, confilling of fodden vcnifon, hot 
 corn cakes, &c. with a pleafant cooling liquor made 
 of hommony well boiled, mixed afterwards with 
 milk ; this is ferved up either before or after eat- 
 ing in a large bowl, with a very large fpoon or ladle 
 to fup it with. 
 
 After partaking of this fimple but healthy and 
 liberal collation, and the diflies cleared off. Tobac- 
 co and pipes were brought ; and the chief filling one 
 of them, whofe ftem, about four feet long, was 
 iheathed in a beautiful Ipeckkd fiiake fkin, and 
 adorned with feathers and firings of wampum, lights 
 k and fmoaks a few whiffs, puffing the fmoak firft 
 towards the fun, then to the four cardinal points, 
 and laftly over my bread, hands it towards me, 
 which I cheerfully received from him and fmoak- 
 ed ; when we fell into converfation. He firft en- 
 quired if I came from Charleilon ? if I knew John 
 Stewart, Efq. how long fince I loft Charledon ? &c. 
 Having fatisfted him in my anfwers in the beP: man- 
 ner I could, he was greatly pleafed ; which I v/as 
 convinced of by his attention to me, his cheerful mar- 
 ners, and his ordering my horfs a plentiful bait of 
 corn, which laft inllance of refpect is conferred on 
 thofe only to whom they manifcfl the higheft cfteem, 
 feying that corn was given by the Great Spirit only 
 for food to man. 
 
 I acquainted 
 
350 Travels im 
 
 I acquainted this ancient prince and patriarch 
 with the nature and defign of my peregrinations, 
 and that 1 was now for Cowe, but having loft my 
 road in the town, rcquefted that I might be inform- 
 ed. He cheerfully replied, that he was pleafed 1 
 was come in their country, where I fhould meet 
 with friehdfhip and protedion, and that he would 
 himfelf lead me into the right path. 
 
 After -ordering my horfe to the door, we Went 
 forth together, he on foot, and I leading my horfe 
 by the bridle ; thus walking together near two miles, 
 we fhook hands and parted, he returning home, and 
 I continuing my journey for Cowe. 
 
 This Prince is tlie chief of Whatoga, a man unl- 
 vcrfally beloved, and particularly elleemed by the 
 whites for hi-s pacific and equitable difpofition, and 
 revered by all for his exemplary virtues, juft, mode- 
 rate, magnanimous and intrepid. 
 
 He was tall and perfectly formed ; his counte- 
 nance cheerful and lofty, and at the fame time truly 
 eharaderiftic of the red men, that is, the brow 
 ferocious, and the eye aftive, piercing or fiery, as 
 an eagle. He appeared to be about lixty years of 
 age, yet upright and mufcular, and his limbs adive 
 as, yputh. 
 
 i^fter leaving my princely friend, I travelled 
 about {ive miles through old plantations, now under 
 grafs, but which appeared to have been planted the 
 iaft feafon ; the foil exceeding fertile, loofe, black, 
 deep and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. This 
 fettlement is efteemcd the capital town ; it is fitu- 
 ated on the bafes of the hills on both fides of the 
 river, near to its bank, and here terminates the great 
 
 vale 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 35 f 
 
 vale of Cowe, exhibiting one of the mod: charraing 
 natural mountaneous landfcapes perhaps any where 
 to be feen ; ridges of hills rifing grand and fablimely 
 one above and beyond another, feme boldly and 
 majestically advancing into the verdant plain, their 
 feet bathed with the filver flood of the Tanafe^ 
 whilfl others far diflant, veiled in blue mifls, fub- 
 limely mounting aloft, with yet greater majefty lift 
 up their pompous crefts, and overlook vail re- 
 gions. 
 
 The vale is clofed at Cowe by a ridge of mighty 
 hills, called the Jore mountain, faid to be the higheU: 
 land in the Cherokee country, which croffes the 
 Tanafe here. 
 
 On my arrival at this town I waited on the gen- 
 tlemen to whom 1 was recommended by letter, and 
 was received with refpe£l and every demonllration of 
 hofpitality and friendihip. 
 
 I took my refidence with Mr. Galahan the 
 chief trader here, an ancient refpeftablc man, who 
 had been many years a trader in this country, and 
 ig efteemed and beloved by the Indians for his hu- 
 manity, probity and equitable dealings with them ; 
 which, to be juft and candid I am obliged to ob' 
 fcrve (and bluih for my countrymen at the recital) 
 is fomewhat of a prodigy ; as it is a fad, I ani 
 afraid too true, that the white traders in their com: 
 merce with the Indians, get great and frequent oc- 
 cafions of complaint of their difiionelly and vio- 
 lence : but yet there are few exceptions, as in the 
 conduft of this gentleman, who furnifhes a living 
 inftancc of the truth of the old proverb, that " Ho- 
 nefty is the befl: policy ;" for this old honed Iliber- 
 niaa has often been prote<f!:ed-by the Indians, when 
 
 all 
 
3J2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 all Others round about him have been ruined, their 
 property feized and themfelves driven out of the 
 country or (lain by the injured, provoked natives. 
 
 Next day after my arrival I croffed the river in 
 a canoe, on a vifit to a trader who refided amongft 
 the habitations on the other fhore. 
 
 After dinner, on his mentioning feme curious 
 fcenes amongft the hills, fome miles diftance from 
 the river, we agreed to fpend the afternoon in obfer- 
 vations on the mountains. 
 
 After riding near two miles through Indian plan- 
 tations of Corn, which was well cultivated, kept 
 clean of weeds, and was well advanced, being near 
 eighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted at 
 the Corn-hills were above ground ; we left the 
 fields on our right, turning to\j'ards the mountains, 
 and afcendiiig through a delighiful green vale or 
 lawn, which condu<5ted us in amongft the pyrami- 
 dal hills, and eroding a brifrL flowing creek, mean- 
 dering through the meads, which continued near 
 two miles, dividing and branching in amongft the 
 hills. We then mounted their fteep afcents, riftng 
 gradually by ridges or fteps one above another, fre- 
 quently crofTing narrow fertile dales as v/e afcend- 
 cd : the air felt cool and animating, being charg- 
 ed with the fragrant breath of the mountain beau- 
 ties, the blooming mountain clufter Rofe, blufliing 
 Rhododendron and fair Lilly of the valley. Hav- 
 ing now attained the fummit of this very elevated 
 ridge, we enjoyed a fine profpefi indeed ; the en- 
 chanting vale of Keowe, perhaps as celebrated 
 for fertility, fruitfulncfs and beautiful profpeds as 
 the Fields of Pharialia or the Vale of Tempe ; the 
 town, the elevated pecks of the Jore mountains, a 
 
 very 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 353 
 
 very diflant profpeft of the Jore village in a beau- 
 tiful lawn, Jified up many thoufand feet higher than 
 our prefent fitu;ition, bsfides a view of many other 
 villages and fettlements on the fides of the moun- 
 tains, at various diftances and elevations ; the filver 
 rivulets gliding by them, and fnow white cataracts 
 glimmering on the fides of the lofty hills ; the bold 
 promontories of the Jore mountain Itepping into the 
 Tanafe river, whilll his foaming waters ruflisd be- 
 tween them. 
 
 After viewing this very entertaining fcene, wc 
 beean to defcend the mountain on the other fide 
 which exhibited the fame order of gradations or 
 ridges and vales as on our afcent ; and at length 
 relied on a very expanfive, fertile plain, amidft the 
 tov^ering hills, over which we rode a long time, 
 through magnificent liigh forefls, extenfive green 
 fields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerly 
 been a very flourilhing fettlement ; but the Indians 
 dcferted it in fearch of frefii planting land, which 
 they foon found in a rich vale but a few miles dif- 
 tance over a ridge of hills. Soon after entering on 
 tljefe charming, fequeftered, prolific fields, we came 
 to a fine little river, which crofiing, and riding over 
 fruitful flrawberry beds and green lawns, on the 
 fides of a circular ridge of hills in front of us, and 
 going round the bafes of this promontory, came to 
 a fine meadow on an arm of the vale, throus;h which 
 meandered a brook, its humid vapours bedewing the 
 fragrant flrawberries which hung in heavy red cluf- 
 ters over the giaffy verge. We eroded the rivulet ; 
 then rifing a Hoping, green, turfy afcent, alighted 
 on the borders of a grand foreft of (lately trees, 
 which we penetrated on foot a little diftance to a 
 horfe-flamp, where was a large fquadron of thofe 
 
 A a ufeful 
 
354 TRAVELS llJ 
 
 ufeful creatures, belonging to my friend and com- 
 panion, the trader, on the fight of whom they af- 
 fembled together from all quarters ; fome at a dif- 
 tance faluted him with fhrill neighings of gratitude, 
 or came prancing up to lick the fait out of his 
 hand, whilfh the younger and more timorous came 
 galloping onward, but coyly wheeled off, and fetch- 
 ing a circuit flood aloof; but as foon as their lord 
 and mailer ftrewed the cryflaline falty bait on the 
 hard beaten ground, they all, old and young, docile 
 and timorous, foon formed themfelves in ranks and 
 fell to licking up the deUcious morfel. 
 
 It was a fine fight ; more beautiful creatures I 
 never faw ; there were of them jof all colours, 
 fizes and difpofitions. Every year, as they become 
 of age, he fends off a troop of them down to 
 Charleflon, where they are fold to the higheu bid- 
 der. 
 
 Having paid our attention to this ufeful part of 
 the creation, who, if they are under our dominion, 
 have confequently a right to our protection and fa- 
 vour, we returned to our trufty fervants that 
 were regaling themfelves in the exuberant fweet 
 paffures and ftrav/berry fields in fight, and mounted 
 again. Proceeding on our return to town, continued 
 through part of this high forefl {Idrting on the 
 meadows : began to afcend the hills of a ridge which 
 we w^ere under the neceffity of eroding ; and having 
 eained its fummit, enjoyed a mod enchanting view ; 
 a vaft expanfe of green meadows and ftrawbcrry 
 fields ; a meandering river gliding through, falut- 
 ing in its various turnings the fwelling, green, turfy 
 knolls, embcUifhed with parterres of flowers and 
 fruitful llrawberry beds ; flocks of turkies (trolling 
 about them 3 herds of deer prancing in the meads 
 
 or 
 
NORTfl AMERICA. 
 
 355 
 
 or bounding over the hills ; companies of youno-^ 
 innocent Cherokee virgins, fome bufy gathering 
 the rich fragrant fruit, others having already filled 
 their bafkets, lay reclined under the Ihade ot llori- 
 ierous and fragrant native bowers of Mignoiia, 
 Azalea, Philadelphus, perfumed Calvcanthus, fv/eet 
 Yellow Jelfamine and cerulean Glycine fruLelceiis,. 
 difclofmg their beauties to the fluttering breeze, 
 and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting dreams ; 
 whilfl: other parties more gay and libertiui, were 
 yet coUefting ilrawberrles, or wantonly chafing their 
 companions, tantahfmg them, itaining their lips 
 and cheeks with the rich fruit. 
 
 The fylvan fcene of primitive Innocence was en- 
 chanting, and perhaps too enticing for hearty young 
 men long to continue idle fpe«ftators. 
 
 In fine, nature prevailing over reafon, we wifli- 
 ed at lealt to have a more adive part in their deli- 
 cious fports. Thus precipitately refolving, we cau- 
 tioufly made onr approaches, yet undifcovered, al- 
 moft to the joyous fccnc* of atHon. Now, although 
 we meant no other than an innocent frolic with this 
 gay aflcmbly of hamadryades, we fliall leave It to 
 the perfon of feeling and fenfibility to form an idea 
 to what lengths our paflions might have hurried us, 
 thus warmed and excited, had it not been for the 
 vlfrilance and care of fome envious matrons who 
 lay in ambufli, and efpying us, gave the alarm, time 
 enough for the nymphs to rally and aflemble toge- 
 ther. We however purfued and gained ground on a 
 group of them, who had incautioufiy (trolled to a 
 greater diltance from theif guardians, and finding 
 their retreat now like to be cut off, took flielter 
 under cover of a little grove ; but on perceiving 
 themfelves to be difcovered by us, kept their fta- 
 A a 2 tion. 
 
35^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 tion, peeping through the bufhes ; when obferving 
 our approaches, they confidently difcovered them- 
 felveSj and decently advanced to meet us, half un* 
 veiling their blooming faces, incarnated with the 
 modefl maiden blufli, and with native innocence 
 and checrfulnefs, prefented their little bafkets, mer- 
 jily telling us their fruit was ripe and found. 
 
 We accepted a bafket, fat down and regaled our- 
 felves on the delicious fruit, encircled by the whole 
 affembly of the innocent jocofe fylvan- nymphs : by 
 this time the feveral parties, under the condu£l of 
 the elder matrons, had difpofed themfelves in com- 
 panies on the green, turfy banks. 
 
 My young companion, the trader, by conceffions 
 and iuitable apologies for the bold intrufion, having 
 compromifed the matter with them, engaged them 
 to bring their colle<^ions to his houfe at a Itipulated 
 price : we parted friendly. 
 
 And nov/ taking leave of thefe Elyfian fields, we 
 again mounted the hills, which we croiTed, and tra- 
 verfmg obliquely their fiov/ery beds, arrived in town 
 in the cool of the evening. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 35^ 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 After waiting two days at Cowe expeding a 
 guide and protector to the Overhiil towns, and at lad 
 being difappointed, I refolved to purfue the journey 
 alone, though againft the advice of" the traders ; the 
 Overhiil Indians being in an ill humour with the 
 whites, in confequence of fome late fkirmiflies be- 
 tween them and the frontier Virginians, moil of the 
 Overhiil traders havin? left the nation. 
 
 o 
 
 Early in the morning I fat off attended by mv 
 worthy old friend Mr. Gallahan, who obligingly ac- 
 companied me near fifteen miles. We paffed through 
 the Jore village, which is pleafmgly fuuated in a 
 little vale on the fide of the mountain ; a pretty ri- 
 vulet or creek winds about through the vale, juft 
 under the village : here I obferved a little grove 
 of the Cafme yapon, which was the only place where 
 I had feen it grow in the Cherokee country ; the In- 
 dians call it the beloved tree, and are very careful 
 to keep it pruned and cultivated : they drink a 
 very ftrong infuficn of the leaves, buds and tender 
 branches of this plant, which is fo celebrated, in- 
 deed venerated bv the Creeks and all the Southern 
 maritime nations of Indians. V\/^e then contmued 
 travelling down the vale about two miles, the road 
 deviating, turning and winding about the hills^ and 
 through groves in lawns, watered by brooks and 
 rivulets, rapidly rufhing from the tov/ering hill on 
 
 every 
 
55^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 every fide, and flowing into the Jore, which is a 
 confiderable branch of the Tanafe. 
 
 Began now to afcend the mountain, following a 
 fmali arm or branch of the vale, which led to a gap 
 or narrow defile, compreifed by the high pending 
 hills on each fide, down which came rapidly a confi- 
 derable branch of the Jore, dafhing "and roaring 
 over rocky precipices. 
 
 Now leaving Roaring creek on our right, and 
 accomplifhing two or three afcents or ridges, an- 
 other branch of the trading path from the Overhills 
 to Cowe came in on our right, and here my tranfi- 
 tory companion Mr. Galahan parted from me, taking 
 this road back to Cowe ; when I was left again wan- 
 dering alone in the dreary mountains, not indeed to- 
 tally pathlefs, nor in my prefent fituation entirely 
 agreeable, although fuch fcenes of primitive unmo- 
 difiied nature always pleafed me. 
 
 May we fuppofe that mankind feel in their hearts 
 a predilection for the fociety of each other ; or are 
 we delighted with fcenes of human arts and cultiva- 
 tion, where the painons are flattered and entertained 
 with variety of objects for gratification f ^ 
 
 I found myfelf unable, notwithfl:anding the atten- 
 tive admonitions and perluafive arguments of reafon, 
 entirely to erafe from my mind, thofe imprefllons 
 which I had received from the fociety of the amia- 
 ble and polite inhabitants of Charlefl:on ; and I could 
 not help comparing my prefent fituation in fome de- 
 gree to Nebuchadnezzar's, when expelled from the 
 fociety of men, and confl;raincd to roam in the moun- 
 tains and wildernefs, there to herd and feed with the 
 v.'ild beads of the foredso 
 
 After 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 359, 
 
 After parting with my late companion, I went 
 forward with all the alacrity that prudence would 
 admit of, that I might as foon as poffible fee the 
 end of my toil and hazard, being determined at all 
 events to crofs the Jore mountain, faid to be the 
 highefl land in the Cherokee country. 
 
 After a gentle defcent, I entered on an extremely 
 flony narrow vale, through which coalted fwiftly a 
 large creek, twelve or fitteen yards wide, roaring 
 over a rocky bed, which I eroded with difliculty and 
 danger, the ford being incommoded by flielving 
 rocks, full of holes and clifl's. After leaving this 
 rocky creek, my path led me upon another narrow 
 vale or glade, down which came in great hafte 
 another noify brook, which I repeatedly ciofl'ed and 
 recrofled, fometimes riding on narrow level grafly 
 verges clofe to its banks ; Itill afcending the vale 
 gradraliy terminated, being fhut up by Itupendous 
 rocky hills on each fide, leaving a very narrow gap 
 or defile, towards which my road'led me, afcend- 
 ing the rteep fides of the mountains ; when, after 
 rifing feveral wearifome afcents, and finding myfelf 
 over-heated and tired, 1 halted at a little grafiy 
 lawn through which meandered a fweet rivulet. 
 Here I turned my horfe to graze, and fat down to 
 reft on a green bank juft beneath a high frowning 
 promontory, or obtufe point of a ridge of the moun- 
 tain yet above me, the friendly rivulet making a 
 circuit by my feet; and now a little reded, I took 
 out of my wallet fome bifcuit and cheefe, and a 
 piece of neat's tongue, compofing myfelf to eafe 
 and refrefliment : when fuddenly appeared within a 
 few yards, advancing towards me from behind the 
 point, a ftout likely young Indian fellow, armed 
 with a rifle gun. and two dogs attendinj. Upon 
 
 fieht 
 
360 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fight of me he flood, and feemed a little farprifed, as 
 I was very much ; but inftantly recollecting hinifelf 
 and alTuming a countenance of benignity and cheer- 
 fulnefs, he came briikly to me and (hook hands 
 heartily, and fmillngly inquired from whence I 
 came, and whither going ; but fpeaking only in the 
 Cherokee tongue, our convcrfation was not conti- 
 nued to a great length. I prefented him with fome 
 choice Tobacco, which was accepted with courtefy 
 and evident pleafure, and to my inquiries concern- 
 ing the roac^sand difrance to ths Overhili towns, he 
 anfwered me with perfefl: cheerful nefs and good 
 temper. We then ap^Liin fliook hands and parted in 
 friendfnlp; he defcended the hills, finging as he went. 
 
 Of vegetable produdions obferved in this region, 
 were the follownig, viz. Acer ftriatum, Ac. rubrum, 
 Juglans nigra, Jug. alba, Jug. Hiccory, Magnolia 
 acuminata, Quercus alba, CX tinftoria, (^ rubra, 
 Q. prinus, with the other varieties common in Vir- 
 ginia : Panax ginfeng, Angelica lucida, Convallaria 
 majalis, Halefia, Stewartia, Styrax, Staphylea, Evo- 
 nimus. Viburnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra, 
 Morus, Tilia, Ulmus, Fraxinus, liopea tindloria, 
 Annona, Bignonia fempervirens, Ariflolochia frute- 
 fcens, Bignonia radicans, &c. Being now refrefh- 
 ed by a fimple but healthy meal, I began again to 
 afcend the Jore mountains, which I at length ac- 
 compliihed, and relied on the mod elevated peak ; 
 from whence I beheld with rapture and aftonifh- 
 ment a fublim.ely awful fcene of pov/er and mag- 
 nificence, a world of mountains piled upon moun- 
 tains. Having contemplated this amazing profpc£i 
 of grandeur, I defcended the pinnacles, and again 
 faUing into the trading path, continued gently de- 
 fcending through a graffy plain, fcatteringly planted 
 
 with 
 
NORTH AMERICA. "^Sl 
 
 ^vith large trees, and at a diftance furroundeJ with 
 high forefts. I was on this elevated region fenfible 
 of an alteration in the air, from warm to cold, and 
 found that vegetation was here greatly behind, in 
 plants of the fame kind of the country below ; for 
 inftance, when 1 left Charleifon, the yellow Jafminc 
 was rather paft the blooming days, and here the 
 buds were juft beginnin:; to fwell, though fome were 
 in bloom. Continued more than a mile through 
 this elevated plain to the pitch of the mountain, 
 from whence prcfented to view an expanfive profpetl, 
 exhibiting fccnes of mountainous landfcape, weft- 
 ward, vafl and varied, perhaps net to be exceeded 
 any where. 
 
 My firfl defcent and progrefs down the weft fide 
 of the mountain was remarkably gradual, eafy and 
 plealant, through graily open forefts for the diltancc 
 of two or three miles ; when my changeable path 
 fuddenly turned round an obtufe point of a ridge, 
 and defcended precipitately down a fteep rocky hill 
 for a mile or more, which was very troublefoine, 
 being incommoded with Ihattered fragments of the 
 mountains, and in other places with boggy links, 
 occafioned by oozy fprings and rills flagnate fmking 
 in mercaceous earth ; fome of thefe fteep foft rocky 
 banks or precipices feem to be continually crum- 
 bling to earth ; and in thefe mouldering cliiFs I dif- 
 covercd veins or ftrata of mod pure and clear white 
 earth *, having a faint bluifh or pearl colour gleam, 
 fomewhat exhibiting the appearance of the little 
 cliffs or wavy crcfts of new iallcn fnowdrifts : we 
 likewife obferve in thefe dillolving rocky cliffs, veins 
 of ifinglafs (Mica S. vitrum Mufcoviticum), fome 
 
 * Mica nitiJa : fpr d.iicns of this earth Jiave been exported to Erglaad, 
 {or the I'urjwfc of making Porcelain or china wajc. 
 
 of 
 
352 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of the flakes or lanilnce Incredibly large, entire and 
 tranfparent, and would ferve the purpofe of lights 
 i'or windows very well, or for lanthorns ; and here 
 appeared ftrata of black lead (ftibium). 
 
 At length, after much toil and exercile, I was a 
 little relieved by a narrow grafly vale or lawn at the 
 foot of this fteep defcent, through which courfed 
 along a confiderable rapid brook, on whofe banks 
 grev; in great perfedion the glorious Magnolia 
 auriculata, together with the other confpicuous 
 flowering and aromatic fhrubs already mentioned ; 
 and I obferved here in the rich bottoms near the creek, 
 a new fpecies of Hydraftis, having very large fmuated 
 leaves and white flowers ; after this I continued fe- 
 veral miles over ridges and grafly vales watered with 
 delightful rivulets. 
 
 Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles, ge- 
 nerally through fpacious high forefls and flowery 
 lawns ; the foil prolific, being of an excellent qua- 
 lity for agriculture ; came near the banks of a large 
 creek or river, where this high forefl: ended on my 
 left hand, the trees became more fcattered and in- 
 fenfibly united with a grafly glade or lawn bordering 
 on the liver ; on the oppolite bank of which ap- 
 peared a very exteufive forefl, confifliing entirely of 
 rhe Hemlock fpruce (P. abies), almofl; encircled by 
 diitaat ridges of lofty hills. 
 
 Soon after crofll ng this large branch of the Ta- 
 nai'e, I obferved, defccnding the heights at fome 
 difl;ance, a company of Indians, all well mounted 
 on horfe back ; they came rapidly forward : on 
 their nearer approach I obferved a chief at the head 
 of the carravan, and apprehending him to be the 
 Little Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of the 
 
 Cherokccs, 
 
NCWITIT AMERICA. 2^3 
 
 Cherokees, as they came up I turned off from the 
 path to make way, in token of refpeft, which com- 
 pliment was accepted, and gratefully and magnani- 
 mouily returned ; for his highnefs wltli a gracious 
 and cheerful fmile came up to me, and clapping his 
 hand on his bread, offered it to mc, faying, 1 am 
 Ata-cul-culla ; and heartily fliook hands with me, 
 and aflscd me if 1 knew it. I anfvvered, that the 
 Good Spirit who goes before me fpoke to me, and 
 faid, that is the great jVta-cul-culla ; and added, 
 that 1 was of the tribe of white men, of Pennfylva- 
 nia, who efleem themfelves brothers and friends to 
 the red men, but particularly fo to the Cherokees, 
 and that notwithilanding we dwelt at fo great a dif- 
 tance, we were united in love and fricndfhip, and 
 that the name of Ata-cul-culla was dear to his 
 white brothers of Pennfvlvania. 
 
 J 
 
 After this compliment, which feemed to be ac- 
 ceptable, he inquired if I came lately from Charlef- 
 ton, and if John Stewart was well, faying that he 
 was going to fee him. I replied, that I came lately 
 from Charleflon on a friendly vifit to the Chero- 
 kees ; that I had the honour of a perfonal acquaint- 
 ance v.'ith the fuperintendant, the beloved man, 
 vhoni, I faw well but the day before I fet off, and 
 who, by letters to ilie principal white men in the 
 nation, recommended me to the friendfnip and 
 protetlion of the Cherokees. To which the great 
 chief was pleafed to anfwer very refpcftfullv, that I 
 was welcome in their country as a fiiend and bro- 
 ther ; and then fliaking hands heartily bid me fare- 
 wel, and his retinue confirmed it by an united voice 
 of afient. After giving my name to the chief, rc- 
 tqueding my compliments to the fuperintendant, 
 the emperor i;novcd, continuing his journey for 
 
 Charleflon: 
 
364 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Charleflon ; and I, yet perfifling in my intention of 
 vifiting the Overhill towns, continued on. Leaving 
 the great forefi: I mounted the high hills, defcending 
 them again on the other fide, and fo on repeatedly 
 for feveral miles, without obferving any variation 
 in the natural productions fince palling the Jore : 
 and perceiving the How progrefs of vegetation in 
 this mountainous, high country ; and, upon ferious 
 confideration, it appearing very plainly that I could 
 not, with entire fafety, range the Overhill fettle- 
 irients until the treaty was over, which would not 
 come on till late in June ; I fuddenly came to a 
 refolution to defer thefe refearches at this time, and 
 leave them for the employment of another feafon 
 and more favourable opportunity, and return to 
 Dartmouth in Georgia, to be ready to join a com- 
 pany of adventurers who Vv'^re to fet off in July for 
 Mobile in Weft Florida. The leader of this com- 
 pany had been recommended to me as a fit perfon 
 to affift ir,e on fo long and hazardous a journey, 
 throuG^h the vaft territories of the Creeks. 
 
 Therefore next day I turned about on my return, 
 proceeding moderately, being engaged in noting 
 fuch objects as appeared to be of any moment, and 
 collccl:ing fpecimens ; and in the evening of next 
 day arrived again at Co'vve. 
 
 Next morning Mr. Galahan conduced me to the 
 chief of Cowe, who during my abfence had return- 
 t'd from the chace. The remainder of this day I 
 fpent in obfervations in and about the town, re- 
 viewing my fpecimens, &c. 
 
 The tov/n of Cowe coiififts of about one hundred 
 
 dwellings, near the banks of the Tanafe, on both 
 
 fides of the river. 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA, ^6^ 
 
 The Cherokees conftruft their habitations on a 
 different plan from the Creeks ; that is, but one 
 oblong four fquare buildin?, of one ftory high ; the 
 materials conAfling of logs or trunks of trees, ilrip- 
 ped of their bark, notched 3t their ends, fixed one 
 upon another, and aftervv-ards plaiflered well, both 
 infide and out, with clay v/ell tempered with dry 
 grafs, and the whole covered or roofed with the 
 bark of the chefnut tree or long broad fhingles. 
 This building is however partitioned tranfverfely, 
 forming three apartments, which communicate with 
 each other by infide doors ; each houfe or habita- 
 tion has befides a little conical houfe covered with 
 dirt, which is called the winter or hot-houfe ; this 
 flands a few yards diflance from the manfion-houfe, 
 oppofite the Iront door. 
 
 The council or town-houfe is a large rotunda, 
 capable of accommodating feveral hundred people : 
 it ftands on the top of an ancient artificial mount of 
 earth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and the 
 rotunda on the top of it being above ihirt)' feet 
 more, gives the whole fabric an elevaticni of about 
 fixty feet from the common furface of the ground. 
 But it may be proper to obferve, that this mount 
 on which the rotunda If ands, is of a much ancienter 
 date than the building, and perhaps was raifed for 
 another purpofe. The Cherokees themfelves are 
 us ignorant as we are, by what people or for vvhat 
 purpofe thefe artificial hills were raifed ; they haves 
 various flories concerning them, the bed of which 
 amount to no more than mere coniefture, and 
 leave us entirely in the dark ; but they have a tra- 
 dition common with the other nations of Indians, 
 that they found them in much the fame condition 
 as they now appear, when their forefathers arrived 
 
 from 
 
 L 
 
366 TRAVELS IN 
 
 from the Weft and poflefled themfelves of the coun- 
 try, after vanquifliing the nations of red men who 
 then inhabited it, who themfelves found thefe mounts 
 when they took poflreffion of the country, the former 
 pofl'efibrs dcHvering the fame (tory concerning 
 them : perhaps they were defigned and appropriated 
 by the people who conftruded them, to fome reli- 
 gious purpofe, as great altars and temples fmiilar to 
 the high places and facred groves anciently amonglt 
 the Canaanites and other nations of Paleftine and 
 Judea. 
 
 The rotunda is conftruded after the following 
 manner : they firft fix in the ground a circular 
 range of polls or trunks of trees, about fix feet 
 high, at equal diftances, which are notched at top, 
 to receive into them from one to another, a range 
 of beams or wail plates ; within this is another cir- 
 cular order of very large and flrong pillars, above 
 twelve feet hi;;h, notched in like manner at top, to 
 receive another range of wall plates ; and withim 
 this is yet another or third range of ftronger and 
 higher pillars, but fewer in number, and llanding 
 at a greater dlftance from each other ; and laftly, 
 in the centre (lands a very ftrong pillar, which forms 
 the pinnacle of the building, and to v/hich the raf- 
 ters centre at top ; thefe rafters are flrengthened 
 and bound together by crcfs beams and laths, which 
 fuftain the roof or covering, which is a layer of 
 bark neatly placed, and tight enough to exclude 
 the rain, and fometimes they catl a thin fuperficies 
 of earth over all. There is but one large door, 
 which ferves at the fame time to admit light from 
 wit'iout and the fmoak tb efcape when a fire h 
 kindled ; but as there is but a fmall fire kept, fuf- 
 iicient to give light at night, and that fed with dry 
 
 fmall 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 3^7 
 
 final! found wood divefled of its bark, there is but: 
 little fmoak. All around the infide of the building, 
 betwixt the fecond range of pillars and the wall, is 
 a range of cabins or lophas, confiding of two or 
 three lleps, one above or behind the other, in the- 
 atrical order, where the afl'embly fit or lean down ; 
 thefe fophas are covered with mats or carpets, very 
 curioufly made of thin fplints of Aih or Oak, v/oven 
 or platted together ; near the great pillar in the 
 centre the fire is kindled for light, near which the 
 muficians feat themfelves, and round about this the 
 performers exhibit their dances arid other Ihows at 
 public feftivals, which happen almoft every night 
 throughout the year. 
 
 About the ciofe of the evening I accompanied Mr, 
 Galahan and other white traders to ihe rotunda, 
 where was a grand feftival, mufic and dancing. 
 This affcmbly was held principally ro rehearfe ihe 
 ball-play dance, this town being challenged to play 
 againlt another the next day. 
 
 The people being alTembled and feated in order, 
 and the muficians having taken their ftation, the 
 ball opens, firil with a long harangue or oration, 
 fpoken by an aged chief, in commendation of the 
 manly exerclfe of the ball-play, recounling the 
 many and brilliant viclories which the town of 
 Cowe had gained over the other towns in the na- 
 tion, not forgetting or neglecting to recite his own 
 exploits, together with thofeof orher aged men now 
 prefent, coadjutors in the performance of thefe ath- 
 letic games in their youthful days. 
 
 This oration was delivered with great fpirit and 
 eloquenc'.r, and was meani: to influence the pafLons 
 
 of 
 
\J^,.A^.iS^ - tKcu^ i'^M, *' J 
 
 
 -K-t.'iC' 
 
 505 Travels in* 
 
 of the young men prefent, excite them to emula* 
 tion, and infpire them with ambition. 
 
 This prologue being at an end, the muficlans 
 began, both vocal and inftrumental ; when prelently 
 a company of girls, hand in hand, dreifed in clean 
 white robes and ornamented with beads, bracelets 
 and a profufion of gay ribbands, entering the door, 
 immediately began to fmg their refponfes in a gen- 
 tle, low, and fvveet voice, and formed themfelves 
 in a femicircular file or line, in two ranks, back to 
 back, facing the fpedators and nmficians, moving 
 llowly round and round. This continued about a 
 quaiter of an hour, when we were furprifed by a 
 fudden very loud and flirill whoop, uttered at once 
 by a company of young fellcv;s, who came inbrifkly 
 after one another, with rackets or hurls in one hand. 
 Thefe champions likewife were well drefi'ed, paint- 
 ed and ornamented with filver bracelets, gorgets 
 and wampum, neatly ornamented with moccalins 
 and high waving plumes in their diadems : they 
 immediately formed themfelves in a femicircular 
 rank, alfoin front of the girls, v/hen thefe changed 
 their order, and formed a fmgle rank parallel to the 
 men, raifmg their voices in refponfes to the tunes 
 of the young champions, the femicircles continually 
 moving round. There was fomething fmgular and 
 diverting in their ftep and motions, and t imagine 
 not to be learned to exadnefs but with great atten- 
 tion and perfeverancc. Theflep, if it can be fo 
 termed, was performed after the following manner j 
 lirft, the mxOtion began at one end of the femicircle, 
 gently rifmg up and down upon their toes and 
 heels alternately, when the firil was up on tip-toe, 
 the next began to raife the heel, and by the time 
 the firfl relied again on the heel, the fecond-was 
 
 on 
 
JgORTH AMERICA* 369 
 
 on tip toe, thus from one end of the rank to the 
 other, fo that fome were always up and fome 
 down, alternately and regularly, without the lead 
 baulk or confufion ; and they at the fame time, and 
 in the fame motion, moved on obliquely or fide- 
 ways, fo that the circle performed a double or com- 
 plex motion in its progreffion, and at flated times 
 exhibited a grand or univerfal movement, inflantly 
 and unexpededly to the fpedators, by each rank 
 turning to right and left, taking each other's places ; 
 the movements were managed with inconceivable 
 nlertnefs and addrefs, and accompanied with an in- 
 flantaneous and univerfal elevation of the voice, and 
 flirill ftiort whoop. 
 
 The Cherokees, befides the ball play dance, have 
 a variety of others equally entertaining. The men 
 efpecially exercife themfelves with a variety of gef- 
 ticulations and capers, fome of which are ludicrous 
 and diverting enough ; and they have others which 
 are of the martial order, and others of the chace 5 
 thefe feeni to be fomewhat of a tragical nature ; 
 vv^herein they exhibit aflonifliing feats of military 
 prowefs, mafculine flrength and activity. Indeed 
 all their dances and mufical entertainments feem to 
 be theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with comic 
 and fometimes lafcivious interludes : the women 
 however conduct themfelves with a very becoming 
 grace and decency, inlbmuch that in amorous in- 
 terludes, when their refponfes and geilures feem. 
 confenting to natural hberties, they veil themfelves, 
 ]ull difcovering a glance of their fparkling eyes and 
 bluflnng faces expreihve of fenfibility. 
 
 Next morning early I fet off on my return, and 
 meeting with no material occurrences on the road, 
 in two days arrived fafe at Keowe, where I tarried 
 
 B b two 
 
37' 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 two CT three days, employed in augmenting my 
 colledions of fpecimens, and waiting for Mr. Ga- 
 lahan, who was to call on me here, to accompany 
 him to Sinica, where he and other traders were to 
 meet Mr. Cameron, the deputy commifl'ary, to 
 hold a congrefs at that town, with the chiefs of the 
 I^ower Cherokees, to confult preliminaries intro- 
 ductory to a general congrefs and treaty with thefe 
 Indians, which was to be convened next June, and 
 held in the Overhill towns. 
 
 I obferved in the environs of Keowe, on the bafes 
 of the rocky hilis, immediately afcending from the 
 low grounds near the river bank, a great number of 
 very fmgular antiquities, the work of the ancients ; 
 they feem to me to have been altars for facrifice or 
 fepulchres : they were conllru6led of four flat Itones, 
 two fet on an edge for the fides, one clofed one end, 
 and a very large flat one lay horizontally at top, fo 
 that the other end was open ; this fabric was four or 
 five feet in length, two feet high, and three in 
 width. I inquired of the trader what they were, 
 who could not tell me certainly, but fuppofed them 
 to be ancient Indian ovens ; the Indians can give no 
 account of them : they are on the furface of the 
 ground, and are of ditferent dimenfions. 
 
 I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where we 
 found the' commiiTury and the Indian chiefs con- 
 vened In counfel : continued at Sinica fometin;e, 
 employing myfclf in obfervations, and making col- 
 lections of every thing worthy of notice : and, find- 
 ing the Indians to be yet unfettled in their determi- 
 nation, and not in a good humour, I abandoned 
 iLe projeft of vifiting the regions beyond the Che- 
 rokee mountains for this feafon : fet off for my re- 
 turn to Foit James> Dartmouth, lodged this night 
 
 in 
 
NORTH AMIiRlt'^. 
 
 3!?i 
 
 in the forefts near the banks of a dciightfui large 
 creek, a branch of Keowe river, and next day ar- 
 rived fafe at Dartmouth. 
 
 Lift of the tovins and villages in the Cherokee na- 
 tion inhabited at this day, viz. 
 
 No. 
 
 1 Echoe 
 
 2 Nucafle 
 
 3 Whatoga 
 
 4 Co we 
 
 5 Ticoloofa 
 
 6 Jore 
 
 7 Conifca 
 
 8 Nowe 
 
 9 Timothle 
 
 10 Noewe 
 
 1 1 Tellico 
 iz Clennufc 
 
 13 Ocunnolufte 
 
 14 Chewe 
 
 15 Quanufc 
 
 16 Tellowe 
 
 17 Tellico 
 
 18 Chatuga 
 
 19 Hiwafle 
 
 20 Chewafe 
 
 21 Nuanha 
 
 22 Tallafe 
 
 23 Chelowe 
 
 24 Sette 
 
 25 Chote great 
 
 26 Joco 
 
 27 Tahaffe 
 
 On the Tanafs Eafl: of 
 the Jore niountahis. 
 4 towns. 
 
 f Inland on the branches 
 > of the Tanafe. 
 \ 4 towns. 
 
 On the Tanafe over the 
 }>Jore mountains. 
 8 towns. 
 
 J 
 
 1 Inland towns on the 
 I branches of the Tanafe 
 ^and other waters over 
 1 the Jore mountains, 
 j 5 towns. 
 
 B 
 
 Overhill towns on 
 Tanafe or Cherokee 
 
 .^river. 
 
 ' 6 towns. 
 
 J 
 
 b 2 
 
 the 
 
 28 Taraahle 
 
3/^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 28 Tamahlc ^ Overhlll towns on the 
 
 29 Tufkege j Tanafe or Cherokee 
 
 30 Big Ifland [>river. 
 
 31 Nilaque | 5 towns. 
 
 32 Niowe J 
 
 Lower towns Eafl of the mountains, viz. 
 
 No. I Sinica ") /-» .u n 
 
 2 Keowe / On the Savanna or 
 
 3 Kulfage 5 Keowe river. 
 
 5 Eftolowe I ^^ '^"Si^° '^^^'' 
 
 • ;S^'^ J On Flint river. 
 
 Towns on the waters of other rivers. 
 Eftotowe great, Allagae. Jore. Nae oche» 
 In all forty-three towns. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 J 
 
KORTH AMEPaCA. 373 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 13EI^G returned from the Cherokee country to 
 Dartmouth, I underllood that the company of ad- 
 venturers for Weft Floiida were very forward in 
 their preparations, and would be ready to fet off in 
 a few weeks, fo that I had but a Httle time allowed 
 nie to make provifion and equip myfelf for the profe- 
 cution of fo long and hazardous a journey. 
 
 Our place of rendezvous was at fort Charlotte, 
 on the oppofite fide of the river Savanna, and 
 about a mile from fort James. I had a defire to 
 make little botanical excurfions towards the head of 
 Broad river, in order to coile(!n: fomc curiofities 
 which I had obferved thereabouts j which being ac- 
 compliflied. 
 
 June 2:d fet out from fort Charlotte in company 
 with Mr. Whitfield, who was chief of our caravan. 
 We travelled about twenty miles, and lodged at the 
 farm of Monf. St. Pierre, a PVench gentleman, who 
 received and entertained us with great politenefs and 
 hofpitality. The manfion-houfe is fituated on the 
 top of a very high liill near the banks of the river 
 Savanna, overlooking his very extenfive and well 
 cultivated plantations of Indian Corn (Zea) Rice, 
 Wheat, Oats, Indigo, Convolvulus Batata, kc, 
 thefc are rich lev/ lands, lying very level betwixt 
 thefe natural heighls and the river ; his gardens oc- 
 cupy the gcritlc defcent on one fide of the mount, 
 and a very thriving vineyard confiding of abputfive 
 acres is on the other fide. 
 
 Next 
 
374 TRAVELS IM 
 
 Next morning after breakfaft we fet off again, 
 continuing nine or ten miles farther down the river, 
 when \:'e flopped at a plantation, the property of 
 one of our companions, where we were joined by 
 the reft of the company. Afier dining here we pre- 
 pared to depart ; and the gentleman of the houfe 
 taking an affectionate leave of his wife and chil- 
 dren, we fat off again, and proceeding fix miles 
 farther down the river, we eroded over into Georgia, 
 taking a road which led us into the great trading 
 path from Augufla to the Creek nation. As the 
 ibil, fituation and prcdudions of thefe parts, for 
 feveral day's journey, differ very little from the 
 Northern diftricls of Georgia, already recited, when 
 on the furvey of the New Purchafe, I apprehend it 
 needlefs to enter again into a detail of particulars, 
 fmce it would produce but little more than a recapi- 
 tulation of that journey. 
 
 Early in the evening of the 27th we arrived at 
 the Flat-rock, where we lodged. This is a com- 
 mon rendezvous or camping place for traders and 
 Indians. It is an expanfive clean Hat or horizontal 
 rock, but a little above the furface of ihe ground, 
 jmd near the banks of a delightful rivulet of excel- 
 lent water, which is one of the head branches of Great 
 Ogeche : in the loofe rich foil verging round this 
 rock, grew feveral very curious herbaceous plants, 
 particularly one of fmgular elegance and beauty, 
 ■which I take to be a fpecies of Ipomea (Ipomea, 
 caule ere£co, ramofo, tripedali, fob radicahbus, pin- 
 natifidis, hnearibus, humi-ftratis, fiorib. incarnatis 
 intus maculis coccineis adfperfo.) It grows erecl, 
 three feet high, with a ftrong ftem, which is deco- 
 rated with plumed or pinnalifid linear leaves, 
 Ipmewhat reiembling thofe of the Delphinium or 
 
 Ipomea 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 375 
 
 Ipomea quamoclit ; from about one half Its length 
 upwards, it fends out on all fides, afcendant branches 
 which divide again and again ; thefe terminate with 
 large cubuiar or funnel-formed flowers ; their limbs 
 equally divided into live fegments ; thefe beautiful 
 flowers are of a perfed rofe colour, elegantly be- 
 fprinkled on the infide of their petals wit!i crimfon 
 fpecks ; the flowers are in great abundance, and 
 together with the branches and delicately fme cut 
 leaves, compofe a conical fpike or compound pan- 
 nicle. I faw a fpecies of this plant, if not the very 
 fame, growing on the fea coaft iilands near St. Au- 
 guiline. The blue flov^^ered Malva and Delphinium 
 were its aflTociates about the Flat-rock. 
 
 There are extenfive cane breaks or cs.ne meadows 
 fpread abroad round about, which aiford the molb 
 acceptable and nourifliing food for cattle. 
 
 This evening two companies of Indian traders 
 from Augufta arrived and encamped near iis ; and 
 as they were bound to the Nation, we concluded to 
 imite in company with ihem, they generoufly off'er- 
 ing us their afliflance, having many fparc horfes and 
 others lightly loaded, feveral of ours by this time 
 being jaded : this was a favourable opportunity of 
 relief in cafe of neccfllty. 
 
 Next morning as foon as the horfes were packed 
 and in readinefs, we decampexl and let forward to- 
 gether. 
 
 I thought It worLhy of taking notice of a fmojular 
 method the traders make ufe of to reduce the wild 
 young horfes to their hard duty. When any one 
 pcrfills in refufmg to receive his load, if threats, the 
 difciprnie of the whip and other common abufe 
 
 prove 
 
2)'^6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 prove infufficient, after being haltered, u pack- 
 horfe-man catehes the tip end of one of his ears be- 
 twixt his teeth and pinches it, when inftantly the 
 furious flrong creature, trembhng, (tands perfectly 
 ftill until he is loaded. 
 
 Our caravan confifting of about twenty men and 
 fixty hcrfes, we made a formidable appearance, 
 having now little to apprehend from predatory bands 
 or out-laws. 
 
 This day's journey was for the mod part over 
 high gravelly ridges, and on the moll elevated hills, 
 appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky cliffs of 
 a dark reddiih brown colour ; their compofition 
 feemed to be a coarfe, fandy, ferruginous concrete, 
 but fo firmly cemented as to conflitute a perfect hard 
 fione or rock, and appeared to be excavated or worn 
 into cavities and furrows by the violence of the daOi- 
 ing billows and rapid currents of the ocean, which 
 heretofore probably wafhed them ; there were how- 
 ever flrata or veins in thefe rocks, of a finer com- 
 pofition and compaft confiftence, and feemed pon- 
 derous rich iron ore. A Httle depth below the 
 fandy gravelly furface, lies a ftratuia of very com- 
 pact reddifli yellow clay and fragments of ochre. 
 The trees and flirubs common on thefe gravelly 
 ridges are as follows, Diofpyros, Qiiercus rubra, 
 (^ nigra, Q^ tin.Sloria or great Black Oak, O^ alba, 
 (^ lobata, pod White Oak, CX incana, fohis ova- 
 libus integerrimis fubtus incanis, Pinus lutea, Pinus 
 tasda, foliis geminatis et trinis, (Irobilo ovato bre- 
 vi, cortice rimofo, Pinus paluftris; foliis trinis lon- 
 giflimis, ftrobilo elongata, Cornus Florida, Andro- 
 meda arborea, NylTa fylvatica, Juglans hiccory, 
 Prunuspadus, ^c, Ofherbacens, SoHdago, Eupa- 
 
 toriuni. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 377 
 
 torlum, Sylphium, Ruclbeckia, Gcrardia, Afclepl- 
 as. Agave Vir^inica, Eryngiunij'Thapfia, Euphorbia, 
 Polymnia, kc. 
 
 In the courfe of this day's journey we croiTed 
 two confiderable rivulets, running fwiftly over rocky 
 beds. There is fome very good land on the gra- 
 dual defcents of the ridges and their bottoms bor- 
 dering on creeks, and very extenfive grafly favan- 
 nas and cane meadows ahvavs in view on one hand 
 or the other. z'\t evening we came to camp on the 
 banks of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Oge- 
 che, called Rocky Comfort, where we found ex- 
 cellent accommodations, here being pleafant grafly 
 open plains to fpread our beds upon, environed 
 vvitli extenfive cane meadows, affording the bell of 
 food for our quadrupeds. 
 
 The next day's journey led us over a level dif- 
 trift ; the land generally very fertile and of a good 
 quality for agriculture, the vegetable furface being 
 ol: a dark, loofe, rich mould, on a flratum of ftilf 
 reddlfli brown clay. Crofiing feveral confiderable 
 creeks, branches of the Ocone, North branch of the 
 Alatamaha, at evening, July iff, encamped on the 
 banks of the Ocone, in a delightful grove of foreft 
 trees, confiding of Oak, Afii, Mulberry, Hiccory, 
 Black Walnur, Elm, Saffafras, Gleditfia, &c. This 
 fiourifhing grove was an appendage of the high fo- 
 lefls we had pafied through, and projected into an 
 extenfive, green, open, level plain, confifting of 
 old Indian fields and plantations, being the rich low 
 lands of the river, and ftretching along its banks 
 upv,'ards to a very great diftance, charmingly di- 
 verfified and decorated with detached groves and 
 clumps of various trees and fin-ubs, and indented 
 on its verge by advancing and retreating promon- 
 tories of the high land. 
 
 Our 
 
3-78 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Our encampment was fixed on the fite of the old 
 Ocone town, which, about fixty years ago, was 
 evacuated by the Indians, who, finding their fitua- 
 tion uifagreeable from its vicinity to the white peo- 
 ple, left it, moving upwards into the Nation or 
 Upper Creeks, and there built a town ; but that 
 fjtuation not fuiting their roving difpofition, they 
 grew^ fickly and tired of it, and refolved to feek an 
 habitation more agreeable to their minds. They all 
 arof^j, direding their migration South-EaPavard to- 
 wards the fea-coalt; and in the courfe of their jour- 
 ney, obferving the delightful appearance of the ex- 
 tenlive plnins of Alachua and the fertile hills envi- 
 roning it, they fat dov/n and built a town on the 
 banks cf a fpacious and beautiful lake, at a fmall 
 diflance from the plains, naming this new town, 
 Cufcowilla : this fituaiion pleafed them, the vafl 
 dcfarts, foreds, lake, and favannas around, afford- 
 ing unbounded range of the bcfl: hunting ground 
 for bear and deer, their favourite game. But al- 
 though this fituation was healthy and delightful to 
 the utmoft degree, aftbrding them variety and 
 plenty of every defirable thing in their ediraation, 
 yet troubles and afflictions found them out. This 
 territory, to the promontory of Florida, was then 
 claimed by the Tomocas, Utinas, Caloofas, Ya- 
 mafes and other remnant tribes of the ancient FIo- 
 ridans and the more Northern refugees, driven 
 away by the Carolinians, now in alliance and under 
 the protedion of the Spaniards, who aififting them, 
 attacked the new fettlement and for many years 
 were very troublefome ; but the Alachuas or Ocones 
 being ftrengthened by other emigrants and fugi- 
 tive bands from the Upper Creeks, with v/hom they 
 were confederated, and who gradually eftabliihed 
 other towns in this low country, ftretching a line of 
 fettlements acrofs the ilthmus, extending from the 
 
 Alatamaha 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 37Q 
 
 Alatamsha to the bay of Apalache ; thcfe uniting 
 were at lencrth able to face their enemies and even 
 attack them in their own fettlements ; and in the 
 end, with the afTiflance of the Upper Creeks, their 
 uncles, vanquifhed their enemies and dcllroyed 
 them, and then fell upon the Spanifli feitlements, 
 "which alfo they entirely broke up. But having 
 treated of thefe matters in the journal of my travels 
 into Eaft Florida, I end this digreffion and proceed 
 again on my journey. 
 
 After crofling the Ocone by fording it, which 
 is about two hundred and fifty yards over, w'e tra- 
 velled about twenty miles, and came to camp in the 
 evening ; paiTed over a pleafant territory, prefent- 
 ing varying fcenes of gentle fwelling hills and levels, 
 aflbrding fublime forells, contrafted by expan- 
 five illumined green fields, native meadows and 
 Cane brakes ; the vegetables, trees, finubs and 
 plants the fame as already noticed without any ma- 
 terial variation. The next day's journey was about 
 twenty miles, having croiTcd the Oakmulge by 
 fording it three or four hundred yards over. Ihis 
 river is the main branch of the beautiful Alatamaha : 
 on the Ealt bank of the river lie the famous Oak- 
 mulge fields, where are yet confpicuous verv 
 wonderful remains of the power and grandeur of 
 the ancients of this part- of .America, in the ruins 
 of a capital town and fettlement, as vaft avtiiicial 
 hills, terraces, S:c. already particularly mentioned 
 in my tour through the lower diilrids of Georgia. 
 The Oakmulge here is about forty miles diltance 
 fiomthe Occne, the other arm of the Alatamaha. 
 In the evening we came to camp near the banks of 
 Stony Creek, a large rapid water about fix miles 
 bcvond tlie river. 
 
 Next 
 
380 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Next day we tvavelled about twenty miles far- 
 ther, crolTing two confiderable creeks named Great 
 and Little Tobofochte ; and at evening encamped 
 clofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water, 
 the glitteiint; waving flood pafiing along a£lively 
 over a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territory 
 through which we palTed from the banks of the 
 Oakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful di- 
 ycrfified rural fcene, and promifes a happy, fruitful 
 rmd falubrious region, when cultivated by induftri- 
 ous inhabitants ; generally ridges of low fwelling 
 hills and plains fupporting grand forefts, vaft Cane 
 meadows, favannas and verdant lawns. 
 
 I obfei-ved here a very firigular and beautiful 
 flirub, which I fuppofc is a fpecies of Hydrangia 
 (H. quercifolia). It grows in coppices or clumps near 
 or on the banks of rivers and creeks ; many ftems 
 ufually arife from a root, fpreading itfelf grentiy on 
 all fides by fuckers or ofl'sets ; the ftems grow five 
 or fix feet high, declining or diverghig from each 
 other, and are covered w ith fcveral barks or rinds, 
 the laft of which being of a cinereous dirt colour 
 and very thin, at a certain age of the ftems or Ihoots, 
 cracks ^through to the next bark, and is peeled off 
 by the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, dark 
 reddifli brown bark, which alfo cratks and peels off 
 the next year, in like manner as the former ; thus 
 every year forming a new bark ; the ftems divide 
 re-^ularly or oppofitely, though the branches are 
 crooked or wreathe about horizontally, and thefe 
 again divide, forming others which terminate with 
 lar<;e heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers; but 
 thefe flowers are of two kinds : the numerous par- 
 tial fpikes which compofe the panicles and conftft 
 of a multitude of very fmall fruitful flowers,_ ter- 
 minate 
 
NORTIJ AMERICA, 3^4 
 
 min^ite with one or more very large exparifive neu- 
 tral or iT'Ock flowers, llanding on a long, ilender, 
 ftiff peduncle : thefe flowers are compofed of lour 
 broad oval petils or fegments, of a dark rofe or 
 crimfon colour a;; firfi:, but as they become cider 
 acquire a deeper r^'d or purplifii hue, and Li ft ly are 
 of a brown or f;2rrMginous colour ; thefe have no 
 perfect p::rts of generation of either fex, but difco- 
 ver in their crurrc two, three or four papillx or 
 rudiments ; thc!e neutral flowers, with the whole 
 pannicle, are truly permanent, remaining on the 
 plant for years, uptil they dry and decay : the leaves 
 which clothe Lhe plants are very large, plnnatifid 
 or palmated, and fcrrated or toothed, very much 
 refembling the leasees of fome of our Oaks ; they 
 fit oppofite, fupported by flender petioles, and are 
 of a fine, full green colour. 
 
 Next day after noon we croffed Flint river by 
 fording it, about two hundred and fifty yards over, 
 and at evening came to camp near the banks of 
 a large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint. 
 The high land excellent, allording grand foreflis, 
 and the low ground vail timber and Canes of great 
 height and thicknefs, Arundo gigantca. I obferved 
 growing on the fleep dry banks of this creek, a 
 fpecies of flirub Hypericum, of extraordinary fhow 
 and beauty (Hypericum aureum). It grows eredc, 
 three or four feet high, forming a globular top 
 reprefcnting a perfect httle tree ; the leaves are 
 large, oblong, firm of texture, fmooth and fliining ; 
 the flowers are very large, their petals bread and 
 confpicuous, which, with their tufts of golden fila- 
 ments, give the little buflies a very fplendid ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The adjacent low grounds and Cane fwamp af- 
 forded 
 
3^3 TRAVELS ^H 
 
 forded excellent food and range for our horfes, whoy 
 by this time, through fatigue of conftant travelling, 
 heat of the climate and feafon, were tired and dif- 
 pirited : we came to camp fooner than ufual, and 
 itarted later next day, that they might have time 
 to reil: and recruit themfelves. The territory lying 
 upon this creek, and the fpace between it and the 
 river, prefent every appearance of a delightful and 
 fruitful region in fome future day, it being a rich 
 foil, and exceedingly well fituated for every branch 
 of agriculture and grazing, diverfified with hills 
 and dales, favannas and vaft Cane meadows, and 
 watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, all 
 contiguous to the Flint river : an arm of the great 
 Chata Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninterrupted 
 navigation to the bay of Mexico and the Atlantic 
 ocean, and thence to the Weft: India iflands and 
 over the whole world. 
 
 Our horfes being hunted up and packed, fat foT- 
 v/ard again, proceeding moderately, afcending a 
 higher country and more uneven by means of ridges 
 of gentle hills ; the country however very pleafmg, 
 being diverfified with expanfive groves, favanna; 
 and Cane meadows, abounding with creeks and 
 brooks gliding through the plains or roving about 
 the hills, their banks bordered with forelts and 
 groves, confiding of varieties of trees, fhrubs and 
 plants ; the fummits of the hills frequently prefent- 
 ing to view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous rocks, 
 the fame fpecies as obferved on the ridges between 
 the Flat-rock and Rocky Comfort. 
 
 Next day we travelled but a few miles ; the 
 heat and the burning flies tormenting our horfes 
 to fuch a degree, as to excite compalTion even in 
 th.e hearts of pack-horfemen. Thefe bidng flies are 
 
 of 
 
\ 
 
 KORT^i AMERICA. ^^^^ 
 
 of* feveral fpccles, and their numbers incredible. 
 We travelled alinofi: from fun-rife to his fetting, 
 amidfl a flying hoft of thefe perfecuting fpirits, who 
 formed a vaft cloud around our caravan fo thick as 
 to obfcure every dillant objec't ; but our van al'.vays 
 bore the brunt of the conflict; ; the head, neck, and 
 IhoLiIders of the leading horfes were continually in 
 a gore of blood : fome of thefc llies were near as 
 large as humble bees ; this is the hippobofca. They 
 are armed with a flrong fliarp bc-r.k or probofcit;, 
 fliaped like a lancet, and (heathed in flexible thin 
 valves ; with this beak they in dandy pierce the 
 veins of the creatures, making a large orifice from 
 whence the blood fprings in large drops, rolling 
 down as tears, caufing a fierce pain or aching for a 
 confiderable time after the wound is made. There 
 are three or four fpecies of this genus of lefs fize 
 but equally vexatious, as they are vaflly more nu- 
 merous, adive and fanguineous ; particularly, one 
 about half the fize of the firft mentioned, the next 
 lefs, of a dufl^y colour with a green head ; another 
 yet fomewhat lefs, of a fplendid green and the head 
 of a geld colour ; the fting of this is intolerable, 
 no Ids acute than a prick from a red-hot needle, or 
 a fpark of fire on the (kin ; thefe are called the 
 burning flies. Befules the preceding tormentors, 
 there are three or four fpecies c f the afilus or fmaller 
 biting flics ; one of a grayifti dufl;;y colour ; ano- 
 ther much of the fame colour, having fpotted wings 
 and a green head ; and another very fniall and 
 perfedly black : this lafl: fpecies lies in ambufli in 
 Ihrubby thickets and Cane brakes near water : 
 whenever we approach the cool fliades near creeks, 
 impatient for repoie and relief, almoft fmking un- 
 der the peifecutions from the evil fpirits, who con- 
 , tin u ally 
 
3^4 Travels m 
 
 tinually furround and follow us over the burning 
 defart ridges and plains, and here are in fome hopes , 
 of momentary peace and quietnefs, under cover 
 of the cool humid groves, we are furprized and 
 quickly invefted with dark clouds of thefe perfe- 
 cting demons, befides mufquitoes and gnats (cu- 
 lex et cynips). 
 
 The next day being in like manner opprefTed and 
 har raffed by the flinging flies and heats : we halted 
 at noon, being unable longer to fupport ourfelves 
 under fuch grievances, even in our prefent fituation 
 •charming to the fenfes ; on the acclivity of a high 
 fwelling ridge planted with open airy groves of the 
 fuperb terebinthine Pines, glittering rills playing 
 beneath, and pellucid brooiis meandering through 
 an expanfive green favanna, their banks orna- 
 mented with coppices of blooming aromatic fhrubs 
 and plants perfuming the air. The meridian heats 
 jufl allayed, the fun is veiled in a dark cloud, rifmg 
 North-Weihvard j the air flill, gloomv and fultry ; 
 the animal fpirits fmk under the conflift, and we 
 fall into a kind of mortal torpor rather than re- 
 frefliing repofe ; and flartled or terrified at each 
 others plaintive murm.urs and groans. Now the 
 earth trembles under the peals of inceffant diftant 
 thunder, the hurricane comes on roarings and I. 
 am fhocked again to life : I raife my head and rub 
 open ray eyes, pained with gleams and flaflics of 
 lightning ; when jufl attempting to wake my af- 
 fiidled brethren and companions, almofl over- 
 whelmed with floods of rain, the dark cloud opens 
 over my head, developing a vaft river of the ethe- 
 rial fire ; I am inftantly ftruck dumb, inactive and 
 benumbed ; at length the pulfe of life begins to 
 vibrate, the animal fpirits begin to exert their 
 powers, and I am by degrees revived. 
 
 In 
 
NORTH AMERICA.' 385 
 
 In the evening this furprifingly heavy temped 
 paiTed off, we had a ferene fky and a pleafant cool 
 night ; having had time enough to collect a great 
 quantity of wood and Pine knots to feed our fires 
 and keep up a light in our camp, which was a lucky 
 precaution, as we found it abfolutely necelTary to 
 dry our clothes and warm ourfelves, for all ouv 
 fkins and bedding were cad over the packs of mer- 
 chandize to prevent them and our provifion from 
 being injured by the deluge of rain. Next day was 
 cool and pleafant, the air having recovered its elaf- 
 ticity and vivific fpirit ; I found myfclf cheerful 
 and invigorated ; indeed all around us appeared re- 
 animated, and nature prefented her cheerful coun- 
 tenance ; the vegetables fmilcd in their blooming 
 decorations and fparkling cryftaUine dew-drop?. 
 The birds fung merrily in the groves, and the alert 
 roe-buck whidled and bounded over the ample meads 
 and green turfy hills. After leaving our encamp- 
 ment, we travelled over a delightful territory, pre- 
 fenting to view variable fylvan fcenes, confiding of 
 chains of low hills affording high forefts, with ex- 
 panfive favannas. Cane meadows, and lawns between, 
 watered with rivulets and irlittcrin": brooks. To- 
 wards evening wecameto camp on thebanks of Pintch- 
 iucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river. 
 
 The next day's journey was over an uneven hilly 
 country, but the foil generally fertile and of a qua- 
 lity and liluation favourable to agriculture and graz- 
 ing, the fummits of the ridges rough with ferrugi- 
 nous rocks, in high cliffs and fragments, fcattereil 
 over the fur face of the crround : obferved alfo hioh 
 clilfs of diff reddilh brown clay, with veins or drata 
 of ferruginous dones, either in detached malfes or 
 conglomerated nodules or hematites with veins or 
 mall'es of ochre. 
 
 C c Nc:it 
 
 *j£j€. 
 
3i8^ JRAVELS IK 
 
 Next day, after traverfing a very dellgluful ter- 
 ritory, exhibitijig a charming rural fcenery of pri- 
 mitive nature, gently defcending and paifing alter- 
 nately eafy declivities or niagnificem terraces fup- 
 porting iublime forells, almoll endlefs graffy fields, 
 detached groves and green lav.'ns for the diftance of 
 nine or ten miles, we arrived at the banks of the 
 Chata Uche river oppofite the Uche town ; where, 
 after unloading our horfes, the Indians came over 
 to us in large canoes, by means of which, with the 
 cheerful and liberal allrftance of the Indians, fer- 
 ried over the merchandize, and afterwards driving 
 our hories altogether into the river fwam them over : 
 the river here is about three or four hundred yards 
 wide, carries fifteen or twenty feet water, and flows 
 down with an aftive current; the water is clear > 
 cool and falubrious. 
 
 The Uche tov/n is fituated in a vaft plain, on 
 (he gradual afcent as we rife from a narrow (trip 
 of low ground immediately bordering on the river j 
 it is the largeft, mofh compact and bed fituated 
 Indian town I ever faw ; the habitations are large 
 imd neatly built ; the walls of the houfes are con- 
 llrudled of a wooden frame, then lathed and plaif- 
 t;:red infide and out with a reddifli well tempered 
 clay or mortar, which gives them the appearance 
 of red brick walls ; and thefc; houfes are neatly co- 
 vered or roofed with Cyprefs bark or fliingles of 
 that tree. The town appeared to be populous and 
 thriving, full of youth and young children : I fup- 
 pofe the number of inhabitants, men, women and 
 children, might amount to one thoufand or fifteen 
 hundred, as it is faid they are able to mufter five 
 hundred gun-men or warriors. Their own national 
 language is altogether or radically different from 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 387 
 
 "the Creek or Mufcogulge tongue, and is called the 
 Savanna or Savanuca tongue ; I was told by the 
 traders it was the fame with, or a dialed of, the 
 Shawanefe. They are in confederacy with the 
 Creeks, but do not mix with them ; and, on account 
 of their numbers and flrength, are of importance 
 enough to excite and draw upon them the jealoufy 
 of the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, and are ufu- 
 ally at variance, yet are wife enough to unite againft 
 a common enemy, to fupport the intereit and glory 
 of the general Creek confederacy. 
 
 After a little refrefliment at this beautiful town, 
 we repacked and fet olF again for the ApalachucU 
 town, where we arrived after riding over a level 
 plain, confiding of ancient Indian plantations, a 
 beautiful landfcape diverfified with groves and 
 lawns. 
 
 This is cfteemed the mother town or Capital of 
 the Cieek or Mufcogulge confederacy : facred to 
 peace ; no captives are put to death or human 
 blood fpilt here. And when a general peace is pro- 
 pcfed, deputies from all the towns in the confede- 
 racy alTemble at this capital, in order to deliberate 
 upon a fubjeft of fo high importance for the profpe- 
 rity of the commonwealth. 
 
 And on the contrary the great Cowetta town, 
 about twelve miles higher up this river, is called tlie 
 bloody town, where the Micos, chiefs, and warriors 
 afl'emble when a general war is propofed ; and here 
 captives and flate malefaftors are put to death. 
 
 The time of my continuance here, which was 
 about a week, was employed in excurfions round 
 about this fettlement. One day the chief trader 
 of Apalachucla obliged me with his company on a 
 
 C c 2 walk 
 
3^^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 walk of about a mile and an halidown the river, to 
 view the ruins and fite of the ancient Apalachucla : 
 it had been fituated on a peniniula formed by a 
 doubling of the river, and indeed appears to have 
 been a very famous capital by the artificial mounds 
 or terraces, and a very populous fettlement, from 
 its extent and expanfive old fields, ftretching be- 
 yond the fcope of the fight along the low grounds 
 of the river. We viewed the mounds or terraces, 
 on which formerly flood their tov,'n houfe or ro- 
 tunda and fquare or areopagus, and a little behind 
 thefe, on a \^ve\ height or natural ftep, above the 
 lov/ grounds, is a vail artificial terrace or four fquare 
 mound, now feven or eight feet higher than the 
 common furface- of the ground ; in front of one 
 fquare or fide of this mound adjoins a very exten- 
 five oblong fquare yard or artificial level plain, funk 
 a little belovv' the common furiace, and lurrounded 
 with a bank or narrow terrace, formed with the 
 earth thrown out of this yard at the time of its for- 
 mation: the Creeks or prefent inhabitants have a 
 tradition that this was the work of the ancients, 
 many ages prior to their arrival and poffeirmg this 
 country. 
 
 This old town was evacuated about twenty years 
 ago by the general confent of the inhabitants, on 
 account of its unhealthy fituation, owing to the fre- 
 quent inundations of the river over the low grounds ; 
 and moreover they grew timorous and dejected, 
 apprehending themfelves to be haunted and poi- 
 felTed with vengeful fpirits, on account of human 
 blood that had been undefervedly* fpilt in this old 
 
 town, 
 
 ♦ About ilfty cr fixty years ago almoil all the -Vi'hite traders then in the 
 n.uion v/crc inair;icTcd in this town, whivhcr they had repaired from tiic 
 difiVrent towns, in hopes of an afyium or refuge, in confcquencc of the 
 klaiH-i, having bvtn ti:n<ly apprifud of the hcftik jntcntious of the Indians 
 
 by 
 
NORTH AMERICA. -^89 
 
 tov.n, havin_{]j been repeatedly warned by apparitions 
 and dreams to leave it. 
 
 At the time of their leaving this old tovrn, like 
 jhe ruin or difperfion of the ancient Babel, the in- 
 habitants fcparatcd from each other, forming fe- 
 yeral bands under the conducl or aufjjices of the 
 chief of each family or tribe. The greateft number, 
 however, chofe to fit down and build the prcfent 
 new Apalachucla town, upon a high bank cf the 
 river above the inundations. The other bands 
 purfued difl'crcnt routs, as their inclinations led 
 ihcm, fettling villages lower down the rivtr ; feme 
 continued their migration towards the fca coail:, 
 feeking their kindred and countrymen amongit the 
 Lower Creeks in Kaft I'lorida, where they fettled 
 thcmfelvcs. My intelligent friend, the trader cf 
 Apalachucla, having from a long refidence ainongil 
 thele Indians acquired an extenfive knowledge ol 
 their cuftoms and aiiairs, I inquired of him what 
 were his fentimenrs with refpei5t to their wander- 
 ing, unfettled difpofition ; their fo frequently break- 
 ing up their old to\yns and fettling new ones, &c. 
 His anlwers and opinions were the ncccfiity they 
 were under of having frcili or new flrong land for 
 their plantations, and nev^, convenient and exten- 
 five range or hunting ground, which unavoidably 
 forces thcniv into contentions and wars with their 
 confederates and neighbouring tribes ; to avoid 
 which they had rather move and fcek a plentiful 
 and peaceable retreat, even at a difiancp, than con- 
 tend with friends and relatives or embroil themfelves 
 
 by their tcmpora?-)' wives. They all rjict togcthtt: iii c.ie I-.oufc, under the 
 avowrd protcdion of the chiefs of the town, v.-aiting the event ; but whilft 
 tlie diicfs were aiT^mbled in council, deliberating on ways and mea s to 
 proteiil them, the Jmlians in niiiltitudes furroundcd the houfc and fet fire 
 to it : they all, to the ne.nibcr of eiohteen or twenty, perilhed with the 
 houfc in the flumes. TIic trader fhcwed me the ruins of the houfc where 
 (hey were burn t. 
 
 in 
 
39* TRAVELS IN 
 
 in deflrudlve wars with their neighbours, when 
 either can be avoided with fo Httle inconvenience. 
 With regard to the Mufcogulges, the firrt object in 
 order to obtain thefe convenlencies was. the de- 
 flruclion of the Yamafes, who held the pofleflion of 
 Florida, and were in clofe alliance with the Spani- 
 ards, their declared and moft inveterate enemy, 
 which they at length fully accompli fhed ; and by 
 this conquefl they gained a vafl and invaluable ter- 
 ritory, comprehending a delightful region, and moft 
 plentiful country for their favourite game, bear and 
 deer. But not yet fatisfied, having already fo far 
 conquered the powerful Cherokees, as, in a man- 
 ner, to force them to alliance, and compelled the 
 warlike Chicafaws to fue for peace and alliance with 
 them ; they then grew arrogant and Infatiable, and 
 turned their covetous looks towards the potent and 
 intrepid Cha£laws, the only Indian enemy they had 
 to fear, meaning to break them up and poiTefs them- 
 felves of that extenfive, fruitful and deUghtful coun- 
 try, and make it a part of their vaft empire. But 
 the Chaclaws, a powerful, hardy, fubtile and intre- 
 pid race, eflimated at twenty thoufand warriors, are 
 likely to afford fufficient exercife for the proud and 
 reftlefs fpirits of the Mufcogulges, at lealt for fome 
 years to come ; and they appear to be fo equally 
 matched with the Chaclaws, that it feems doubtful 
 which of thefe powerful nations will rife victorious. 
 I'he Creeks have fworn, it feems, that they never 
 will make peace with this enemy as long as the 
 rivers flow or the fun purfues his courfe through 
 the fides. 
 
 Thus we fee that war or the exercife of arms 
 originates from the fame motives, and operates in 
 the fpirits of the wild red men of America, as it 
 
 formerly 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 39 X 
 
 formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Ro- 
 mans, or modern civilized nations, and not from a 
 ferocious, capricious defire of fnedding human blood 
 as carnivorous favages : neither docs the eager 
 avarice of pUmder (limulatc them to a6ls of mad- 
 nefs and cruelty, that being a trifling objed in theit 
 eftimation, a dufficld blanket, a polilhcd rifle gun, 
 or embroidered mantle ; no, their martial prowefs 
 and obje<I:1:s of defire and ambition proceed froPA 
 greater principles and more magnanimous intentions, 
 even that of reuniting all nations and languacres un- 
 der one univerfal confederacy or common weakh- 
 
 The vegetable productions in the rich low 
 ground, near the banks of this great river, of trees 
 and flirubs, are as follow ; Platanus occideutiilis, 
 I.iriodcndron tulipifera, Populus hererophylla, Lau- 
 Tus fafl'afras, Laurus Barbonia, Laurus benzoin, Be- 
 tula lenta, Salix fluviaHs, Magnolia grandiflora, An- 
 nona glabra, Ulmus campeftris, Ulmus fubcrifera, 
 Carpinus, Quercus, various fpeci-;;s, Juglans, vari- 
 ous fpecies, /Efculus pavia, i^fculus fylvatica, f. 
 Virginiana, Morus, Hopea tintloria, Fagus fylva- 
 tica, of furprifmg magnitude and comelinefs, &;c. 
 The land rifes from the river with fublime ma":ni- 
 ficence, gradually retreating by flights or fteps one 
 behind and above the other, in beautiful theatrical 
 order, each ftep or terrace holding up a level plain ; 
 and as we travel back from the river, the (Icps are 
 higher, and the concfjxmding levels aie more and 
 more expanfive : the afcents produce grand high 
 forcfts, and the plains prefeiit to view a delightful 
 varied landfcape, conhlHng of extenfive gralfy fields, 
 detached groves of high forefl trees, and clumps of 
 lower trees, evergreen fhrubs and herbage ; green 
 knolls, v.'ith ferpentine, wavy, glittering brooks 
 
 courfmg^ 
 
392 TRAVELS IN 
 
 courfinf; through the green plahis ; and dark pro-, 
 montories, or obtufe projeclions ot the fide-long 
 acclivities, alternately adv:ancing or receding on 
 the verge of the illumined native fields, to the ut- 
 mofl extent of fight. The fummits of the acclivi- 
 ties afford, befides the forefl: trees already recited, 
 Halefia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida and Amor- 
 pha. The upper mound or terrace holds up a dilated 
 level plain of excellent land, for the didance of five 
 or fix miles in width, which is a high foreft of the 
 rnajefiic trees already mentioned, as Qiiercus tinfto- 
 ria, Jugians nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Tilia, Gleditfia, 
 Juglans hiccory, &c. The land after this diftance, 
 though almoft flat and level, becomes leaner ; the 
 vegetative mould or fmface is fliallower, on a 
 ftratum of tenaceous humid clay, for the diftance 
 of fifteen or twenty miles, more or Icfs, according 
 to the diftance of the next great river ; prcfenting 
 to our viev/ a fine expanfe of level graffy plains, 
 detached forefts and groves of Q^uercus alba, Q^ 
 lobata, (>. phillos, Q^ hemifpherica, CXaquatica, 
 with entire groves of the fplendid Nyffa fylvatica 
 and perfumed Liquidambar ftyraciflua, vaft Cane 
 meadows, and laftly a chain of grafly favannas. 
 Immediately from this v.e began to afcend gra- 
 dually the moft elevated, gravelly and ftony ridge, 
 confining of "parallel chains of broken fwelling 
 hills, the very higheft chain frequently prefenting 
 to view cliffs of the ferruginous rocks and red 
 clay already noticed. This laft mentioned high 
 ridge divides the waters of the great rivers from 
 each other, whence arife the fources of their nume- 
 rous lateral branches, gradually increafing as they 
 wind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and level 
 plains, by their inundations, as they pour forth 
 from the vaft humid forefts and fliaded prolific hills, 
 
 and 
 
NORTH AMI-RICA. 393 
 
 and hiilly, flow down, with j\u cafy, meandering, 
 ileady courfc, into the rivers to which they are tri- 
 butary. 
 
 Our horfes by this time having recruited thcm- 
 fjlves, by ranging at h'ocriy and feeding in the rich 
 young cane fwamps, in the vicinity of Apalachucla, 
 we refumed our journey for Mobile, having here 
 repaired our equipage, and repleniflied ourfelves 
 with frefh fupphes of provifions. Our caravan was 
 cow reduced to its original number ; the companies 
 of traders who joined us at llie Fhit-rock, on our 
 arrival at this town feparated from us, betaking 
 tliemfelves to the feveral towns in the Nation, 
 where they were refpe6livcly bound. I fliall juft 
 mention a very curious non-defcript (hrub, which 
 1 cbferved grov.ing in the fliady forefts, beneath 
 the afcents, next bordering on the rich low lands 
 of the river. 
 
 This floloniferous flirub grows (ivc or fix feet 
 in height ; many Hems ufually afcend from one root 
 or the fame fource ; thefe feveral Hems diverge 
 from each other, or incline a little towards the earth, 
 covered with a fmooth whitiih bark, divided op- 
 pofitely, and the branches wreath and twill about, 
 being ornauiented with compound leaves ; there 
 being five lanceolate ferratcd leaves, ail'ociated upon 
 one general long flender petiole, which Hand op- 
 pofitcly, on the branches, which terminate with a 
 fpike, or panicle of white Ilowers, having an 
 agreeable fcent : from the chara-^lers of the flowers, 
 this flirub appears to be a fpecies of ylZfcuIusor 
 Tavia, but as 1 could find none of the f;-ultand but 
 a few flowers, quite out of feafon and imperfecl, I 
 ;.ni not certain. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
394 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 JULY 13th we left the Apalachucia town, and 
 three days journey brought us to Talafl'e, a town 
 on the Tallapoofe river, the North Eaft great 
 branch of the Alabama or Mobile river ; having 
 pafled over a vaft level plain country of expanfive 
 favannas, groves, Cane fwamps and open Pine fo- 
 refts, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, 
 tributary to Apalachucia and Mobile. We now 
 altered our courfe, turning to the left hand. South- 
 erly, and defcending near the river banks, continu- 
 ally in fight of the Indian plantations and commons 
 adjacent to their towns. Palled by Otafle, an an- 
 cient famous Mufcogulge town. The next fettle- 
 ment we came to was Coolome, where we ftaye4 
 two days, and having letters for Mr. Germany, the 
 principal trader of Coolome, I meant to confult 
 with him in matters relative to my aifairs and future 
 proceedings. 
 
 Here are very extenfive old fields, the abandoned 
 plantations and commons of the old town, on the 
 Eaft fide of the river ; but the fettlement is remov- 
 ed, and the new town now ftands on the oppofite 
 fliore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an ele- 
 vated ridge of hills, the fwelling beds or bafes of 
 which are covered with a pleafmg verdure of grafs ; 
 but the laft afcent is fteeper, and towards the fum- 
 mit difcovers Ihelving rocky cliffs, which appear to 
 be continually fplitting and burfting to pieces, fcat- 
 tering their thin exfoliations over the tops of the 
 grafly knolls beneath. The plain is narrow where 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 395 
 
 the town is built : their houfcs are neat commodious 
 buildings, a wooden frame with plaiftered walls, 
 and roofed with Cyprefs bark or (liingles ; every 
 habitation confifts of four oblong fquare houfes, of 
 one ftory, of the fame form and dimenfions, and fo 
 fituatcd as to form an exact fquare, encompafling 
 an area or court yard of about a quarter of an 
 acre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at each 
 corner. Here is a beautiful new fquare or areopa- 
 gus, in the centre of the new town ; but the llores 
 of the principal trader, and two or three Indian ha- 
 bitations, ftand near the banks of the oppofite 
 fhore on the fite of the old Coolome town. The 
 Tallapoofe river is here three hundred yards over, 
 and about fifteen or. twenty feet deep: the water 
 is very clear, agreeable to the tafte, elleemed falu- 
 t>rious, and runs with a fteady^ aftive current. 
 
 Being now recruited and refitted, having obtain- 
 ed a guide to fet us in the great trading path for 
 Weft Florida, early in the morning we iat off for 
 Mobile : our progrefs for about eighteen miles was 
 through a magnificent foreft, juil without or fkirt- 
 ing on the Indian plantations, frequently having a 
 view of their diftant towns, over plains or old fields ; 
 and at evening we came to camp under flielter of a 
 grove of venerable fpreading Oaks, on the verge 
 of the great plains : their enormous limbs loaded 
 with Tillandiia ufneadfcltes, waving in the winds : 
 thefe Oaks were fome (helter to us from the vio- 
 lence of an extraordinary fhovver of rain, which 
 fuddenly came down in fuch floods as to inundate 
 the earth, and kept us Handing on our feet the 
 whole night, for the furface of the ground was un- 
 der w-ater almoll till morning. Karly next morn- 
 ing, our guide having performed his duty, took 
 
 leave, 
 
39^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 leave, returning home, and we continued on our 
 journey, entering on the great plains. We had not 
 proceeded far before our people roufed a litter of 
 young v.'olves, to which giving chace, we foon caught 
 mie of them, it being entangled in high grafs ; one 
 of our people caught it by the hind legs and ano- 
 ther beat out his brains v/ith the but of his gun, — 
 barbarous fport ! — This creature was about half 
 the fize of a fmall cur-dog, and quite black. 
 
 We continued over thefe expanfive illumined 
 gralTy plains, or native fields, above twenty miles 
 in length, and in width eight or nine, lying parallel 
 to the river, which was about ten miles diltance ; 
 they are inverted by high foreds, extenfive points 
 or promontories, which projecl into the plains on 
 each fide, dividing them into many vail fields open- 
 ing on either hand as we pafied along, whicii prc- 
 fents a magnificent and pleafing fylvan landfcape 
 of primitive, uncultivated nature. CroiTed feveral 
 very confiderable creeks, their ferpentine courfes 
 ]^>eing directed acrofs the plain by gently fwelling 
 knolls perceptible at a diflance, but which feem to 
 van,ifli or difappear as we come upon them ; the 
 creeks were v/aters of the Alabama, the name of 
 the Eaft arm of the Mobile below the confluence of 
 the Tallapoofe. Thefe rivulets were ornamented by 
 groves of various trees and fiirubs, which do nor 
 fpread far from their banks. I obferved amongfh 
 them the wild Crab (Pyrus coronaria), and Prunus 
 Indica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida, and on the 
 graffy turf adjoining grew abundance of Strawber- 
 ry vines : the furface of the plains or fields is clad 
 with tall grafs, intermixed with a variety of her- 
 bage. The mod confpicuous, both for beauty and 
 novelty, is a tall fpecies of Silplvium ; the radical 
 
 leaves 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 397 
 
 leaves are large, long and lightly finuated, but thofe 
 which garnifli the Hem are few and lefs fmuated ; 
 thefe leaves, \vith the whole plant, except the flow- 
 ers, appear of a whitilh green colour, which is 
 owing to a fine loft fillvv down or pubefcence ; the 
 ilower Item, which is eight or ten feet in length 
 when Handing erecl, ternoinates upwards with a lon^ 
 heavy fpike of large golden yellow radiated flowers ; 
 the Item is ufually ((^cii bov%ing on one fide or 
 other, occafioned by the weight of the flowers, and 
 many of them are broken, juft under the panicle or 
 fpike, by their own weight, after ilornis and heavy 
 rains, which often crack or fplit the Hem, from 
 v/hence exudes a gummy or refmous fubftance, 
 which the fun and air harden into femi-pelhicid 
 drops or tears of a pale amber colour. This refm 
 poiTelVes a very agreeable fragrance and bitterifli 
 tafte, fomewhat like frankincenfe or turpentine ; 
 it is chewed by the Indians and traders, to cleanfe 
 their teeth and mouth, and fweeten their breath. 
 
 The upper ftratum or vegetable mould of thefe 
 plains is perfectly black, foapy and rich, efpecially 
 after rains, and renders the road very flippcry : 
 it lies on a deep bed of white, tcflaceous, limellone 
 rocks, which in fome places refeinble chalk, and in 
 other places are (Irata or fubterrene banks of va- 
 rious kinds of fea fliells, as oftrea, ccc. : thefe dif- 
 folving near the furface of the earth, and mixing 
 with the fuperficial mould, render it extremely 
 produdive. 
 
 Immediately after leaving tlie plains we enter 
 the grand high foreils. There were (lately trees of 
 the Robinea pfcudacacia, Tilia, Morus, Ulmus, 
 Juglans exaltata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronaria, 
 Gon;u£ llorida. Q^rcis, 2:c. Our road r.ov/ for 
 
 feveral 
 
398 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fcveral miles led us near the Alabama, within two 
 or three miles of its banks : the furface of the 
 land is broken into hills and vales, feme of them 
 of confiderable elevation, covered with forefts of 
 llately trees, fuch as already mentioned, but they 
 jire of a much larger growth than thofe of the 
 fame kind which grow in the Southern or inha- 
 bited parts of Georgia and Carolina. We now 
 left the river at a good dillance, the Alabama 
 bearing away Southerly, and entered a vaft open 
 forefl Vv'hich continued above feventy miles, Eaft 
 and Weft, without any confiderable variation, gene- 
 rally a level plain, except near the banks of creeks 
 that courfe through : the foil on the furface is a 
 
 o 
 
 dulky brownifli mould or fandy loam, on a founda- 
 tion of (liu clay ; and the furface, pebbles or gravel 
 mixed with clay on the fummits of the ridges : the 
 forefts confift chiefly of Oak, liiccory, Afh, Sour 
 Gum (Nyfla fylvatica), Sweet Gum (Liquidambar 
 flyraciilua), Beech, iVIalberry, Scarlet maple. Black 
 walnut. Dog wood, Cornus Florida, iElculus pa- 
 via, Prunus Indica, Ptelea, and an abundance of 
 Chcfnut (Fag. caftanea) on the hills, with Finns 
 taeda and Finns lutea. During our progrefs over this 
 vaft high foreft, we crofted extenfive open plains, 
 the foil gravelly, producing a few trees and fhrubs 
 or undergrov\ th, which were entangled with Grape 
 vines (Vitis campeftris) of a peculiar fpecies 5 the 
 bunches (racemes) of fruit were very large, as were 
 the grapes that compofed them, though yet green 
 and not fully grown, but when ripe they are of va- 
 rious colours, and their juice fweet and rich. The 
 Indians gather great quantities of them, which they 
 prepare for keeping, by firft fweating them on hur- 
 dles over a gentle fire, and afterwards drying them 
 on their bunches in the fun and air, and ftore them 
 
 up 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 399 
 
 up for provlfion. Thefe Grape vines do not climb 
 into high trees, but creep along from one low 
 Ihrub to another, extending their branches to a 
 great diftance horizontally round about ; and it is 
 very pleafing to behold the clufters pendant from 
 the vines, almoft touching the earth j indeed fomc 
 of them He upon the ground. 
 
 We now entered a very remarkable grove of Dog 
 wood trees (Cornus Florida), which continued nine 
 or ten miles unalterable, except here and there a 
 towering MagnoUa grandiflora ; the land on which 
 they (land is an exad level ; the furface a fliallow, 
 loofe, black mould, on a ftratum of fliff, yellowifh 
 clay. Thefe trees were about twelve feet high, 
 fpreading horizontally ; their limbs meeting and 
 interlocking with each other, formed one vaft, 
 Ihady, cool grove, fo denfe and humid as to 
 exclude the fun-beams, and prevent the intrufion. 
 of almoft every other vegetable, affording us a 
 moft defirable fhelter from the fervid fun-beams 
 at noon-day. This admirable grove by way 
 of eminence has acquired the name of the Dog 
 woods. 
 
 During a progrefs of near feventy miles, through 
 this high foreft, there conftantly prefented to view 
 on one hand or the other, fpacious groves of this 
 fine flowering tree, which muft, in the fpring feafon, 
 when covered with bloflToms, prefent a mod pleafmg 
 fcene ; when at the fame time a variety of other 
 fweet flirubs difplay their beauty, adorned in their 
 gay apparel, as the Halefia, Stewartia, iEfculus pa- 
 via, JE(c. alba, Jpfc. Florid, ramis divaricatis, thyr- 
 fis grandis, flofculis expanfis incarnatis. Azalea, kc. 
 entangled with garlands of Bii;nonia crucigera, 
 
 ^Big. 
 
4CO TRAVELS IN 
 
 Big* ladicans, Big. fempervirens, Glycine frute- 
 fcens, Lonicera lenipervirens, ccc. and at the fame 
 time the fuperb Magnolia grandifiora, (landing in 
 front of the dark groves, towering far above the 
 common level. 
 
 The evening cool, v/e encamped on the banks 
 of a glittering rivulet amidft a fpicy grove of the 
 lUicium Vloridanum. 
 
 Early next morning we arofe, hunted up our 
 hoifes and proceeded on, continuing about twenty 
 miles, Qver a diflricl which prefented to view an- 
 other landfcape ; expanfive plains of Cane meado^vs, 
 and detached groves, contrafted by fwelling ridges, 
 and vales fupporting grand forefts of the trees al- 
 ready noted, erabellifhed with delightful creeks 
 and brooks, the low grounds producing very tall 
 canes, and the higher banks groves of the Illicium, 
 Calllcanthus, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax and others, 
 particularly Magnolia auriculata. In the evening 
 we forded the river Schambe about fifty yard^> 
 over, the ftream active bit ff-iallow', which carries 
 its waters into the bay of Penfacola. Came to 
 camp, on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charm- 
 ing grove of the Illicium Floridanum : fi-om this 
 we travelled over a level country above fifty miles, 
 very gently but perceptibly defcending South-Eali- 
 ward before us : this didritl exhibited a landfcape 
 very diifcrent from \\nd.t had prefented to vieW^ 
 fmce we left the nation, and not much unlike the 
 low countries of Carolina ; it is in fad one vaft 
 fiat gralTy favanna and Cane meadows, intcrfecled 
 or varioufly fcrolled over vith narrow forefts and 
 groves, on the banks of creeks and rivulets, or 
 hommocks and fwamps at their iburces ; with long 
 leaved Pines, fcatteringly planted, amcngll: ths grafs ; 
 
 and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 401 
 
 and on the high fandy knolls and fwelllng ridges, 
 Quercus nigra, Quercus flammula, Quercus incana, 
 with various other trees and flirubs as already noted, 
 inhabiting fuch fituations. The rivulets however 
 exhibited a different appearance ; they are fhallower, 
 courfe more fwiftly over gravelly beds, and their 
 banks are adorned with Illicium groves. Magnolias, 
 Azaleas, Halefia, Andromedas, &:c. The highelt 
 hills near large creeks afford high forefls with abun- 
 dance of" Chefnut trees. 
 
 "We now approached the bay Mobile, gently af- 
 cending a hilly diflricl, being the higheft forelt ad- 
 joining the extenfive rich low lands ot the river : 
 thefe heights are fomewhat encumbered with peb- 
 bles, fragments and cliffs of rufty ferruginous rocks ; 
 the Hones were ponderous and indicated very rich 
 iron ore : here was a fmall diilricl of good land, 
 on the acclivities and bafes ot thefe ridges, and a 
 level forefl below, watered by a fuie creek, running 
 into the Mobile. From hence we proceeded, again, 
 defcending, and travelled about nine miles generally 
 over a level country confiding of favannas. Cane 
 fwamps, and gentle rifing knolls, producing Pinus 
 ta^da, Nyffa fylvatica, Ouercus rubra, Fagus cafta- 
 nea, Fraxinus, with other trees. Arrived at Ta- 
 cnfa, a pretty high bluff, on the Eallern channel 
 of the great iNIobile river, about thirty miles above 
 fort Condc, or city of Mobile, at the head of the 
 bay. 
 
 Next day early in the morning I embarked in a 
 boat, and proceeded for Mobile, along the banks of 
 iflands (near twenty miles) which lay in the middle 
 of the river, between the Eaflern and Weftern 
 fhores of the main : the banks of thefe low flat rich 
 iflands arc well cultivated, having on them extenfive 
 
 D d farms 
 
4^2 tnAVELS IK 
 
 farms tind feme good habitations, chiefly the pro- 
 perty of French gentlemen, who refide in the city, 
 as being more pleafant and healthy. Leaving thele 
 iflands, we continued ten or twelve miles between 
 the Eaftern main and a chain of low grafly iflands, 
 too low and wet for cultivation ; then crolTed over 
 the head of the bay, and arrived in town in the 
 evening. 
 
 The city of Mobile is fituated on the eafy afcenJ: 
 of a rifing bank, extending near half a mile back on 
 the level plain above ; it has been near a mile in 
 length, though now chiefly in ruins, many houfes 
 vacant and mouldering to earth ; yet there are a few 
 good buildings inhabited by French gentlemen,. 
 Englifh, Scotch and Irifli, and emigrants from the 
 Northern Britini colonies. Meflrs. Swanfon and 
 M'Gillivray who have the management of the In- 
 dian trade carried on with the Chicafaws, Cha*:l:aws, 
 Upper and Lower Creeks, ^c. have made here 
 very extraordinary improvements in buildings. 
 
 The fort Conde, which (lands very near the bay, 
 towards the lower end of the town, is a large regu- 
 lar fortrefs of brick. 
 
 The principal French buildings are conilru(fled 
 of brick, and are of one (lory, but on an extenfive 
 fcale, four fquare, encompalllxig on three fides a 
 large area or court yard : the principal apartment 
 is on the fide fronting the dreet ; they feem in fomc 
 degree to have copied after the Creek habitation in 
 the general plan : thofe of the poorer clafs are con- 
 ftrucled of a ftrong frame of Cyprefs, filled in with 
 brick, plaiftered and white-wafiied infide and out. 
 
 July 3 1 ft, 1778, the air being very hot andfultry, 
 thermometer up at 87, we had excefiive thunder, and 
 
 repeated 
 
 i 
 
North America. 405 
 
 repeated heavy (hewers of rairij from niormng until 
 evening. 
 
 Not having an immediate opportunity front 
 hence to Manchac, a Britilli fettlemcnt on the Mil- 
 fiffippi, I endeavoured to procure a light canoe, with 
 which I defigned to purfue my travels along jfhore 
 to the fettlements about Pearl river. 
 
 Augufl; 5th, fet off from Mobile up the river in 
 a trading boat, and was landed at Taenfa bluff, the 
 feat of Major Farmer, to make good my e!r?;ac;e.- 
 ments, in confequcnce of an invitation from that 
 worthy gentleman, to fpend fome days in his fa- 
 mily ; here I obtained the ufc of a light canoe, to 
 continue my voyage up the river. Tlie fettlement 
 of Taenfa is on the fite of an ancient town of a 
 tribe of Indians of that name, which is apparent 
 from many artificial mounds of earth and other 
 ruins. Befides Mr. Farmer's dwellings, there are 
 many others inhabited by French families ; who 
 are chiefly his tenants. It is a moft delightful fitua- 
 tion, commanding a fpacious profpecl up and down 
 ihe river, and the low lands of his extenfive planta- 
 tions on the oppofite fliore. In my e.xcurfions about 
 this place, I obferved niany curious vegetable pro- 
 dudions, particularly a fpecies of Myiica (Mvrica 
 inod(ira) : this very bcautiiul evergreen flipub, which 
 the French inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows in 
 wet fandy ground about the edges of fv»-amps ; it 
 rifes erect nine or ten feet, dividing itfelf into a 
 multitude of nearly ere6l branches, which are gar- 
 niflied with many Ihining deep green entire leaves 
 of a lanceolate figure ; the branches produce abun- 
 dance of large round berries, nearly the lize of bird 
 cherries, which are covered with a fcale or coat of 
 white wax ; no part cf this plant poffeffes any de- 
 1) d 2 gree 
 
404 TRAVELS IN 
 
 gree of fragrance. It is in high eftimation with the 
 inhabitants for the production of wax for candles^ 
 for which purpofe it anfwers equally well with 
 bees-v/ax, or preferably, as^ it is harder and more 
 lafting in burning. 
 
 Early on a fine morning I fet fail up the river, 
 took the Eaft channel, and pafTed along by well 
 cultivated plantations on the fotile iflands, in the 
 river on my left hand : thefe iflands exhibit every 
 Ihow of fertility ; the native produdliono exceed any 
 thing I had ever feen, particularly the Reeds or 
 Canes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great height 
 and thicknefs. 
 
 Early one morning, paiTing along by fome old 
 uncultivated fields, a few miles above Taenfa, I 
 was flruck with furprize at the appearance of a 
 blooming plant, gilded with the richeft golden yel- 
 low : flopping on flrcre, I difcovcred it to be a new 
 fpecies of the Oenothera (Oenothera grandltiora, 
 caule erefto, ramofo, pilofo, 7, 8 pedalf, foliis 
 femi-tmplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, ferratodentatis, 
 fioribus magnis, fulgidis, feflillbus, capfulls cylin- 
 drici^, 4 angulisj) perhaps the mofl pompous and 
 brilliant herbaceous plant yet known to exift. It 
 is an annual or biennial, rifing ere^l feven or eight 
 feet, branching on all fides from near the earth up- 
 wards, the lower branches extcnfive, and the fuc- 
 ceeding gradually flrorter to the top of the plant, 
 forming a pyramid in figure ; the leaves are of a 
 broad lanceolate fhape, dentated or deeply ferrated, 
 terminating with a flender point, and of a deep full 
 green colour ; the large expanded fiowers, that fo 
 ornament this plant, are of a fplendid perfect yel- 
 low colour ; but when they contract again, before 
 they drop off, the underfidc of the petals next the 
 
 calyx 
 
KORTH AMERWA. 4O5 
 
 calyx beconicb; of a reddifh flefh colour, inclining to 
 Vermillion ; the flowers begin to open in the even- 
 ing, are luUy expanded during the night, and are in 
 their beauty next morning, but clofe and wither 
 before noon. There is a daily profufe fucceffion for 
 many weeks, and one fmgle plant at the fame in- 
 ftant prefents to view many hundred flowers. I 
 have meafured thefe flowers above five inches in 
 diameter, they have an agreeable fcent. 
 
 After leaving thefe fplendid fields of the golden 
 Oenothera, I paffed by old deferted plantations and 
 high forefts ; and now having advanced above ten 
 miles, landed at a blufi', where mooring my bark 
 in a fafe harbour, I afcended the bank of the river, 
 and penetrating the groves, came prefently to old 
 fields, where I obferved ruins of ancient habitations, 
 there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees, 
 loaded with fruit, which aiTording a very acceptable 
 dcfert after the heats and toil of the day, and cvenr 
 jng drawing on apace, I cnncluded to rake up my 
 quarters here for the night. The Fig trees were 
 large as well as their 'fruit; which was when ripe, 
 of the fliape of pcar^^, and as large, and of a dark 
 bluifli purple colour. 
 
 Next morning I avofe early, contlnuhig my 
 voyage ; paded by, on each hand, high fbrefls and 
 rich fwamps, and fre<]uently ruins of ancient French 
 plantations; the Cianes and (lyprefs trees of jtn 
 altonifliing magnitude, as w-erc the trees of other 
 tribes, indicating an excellent foil. C'ame to at 
 noon, and advancing forward fioni the river, and 
 penetrating the awful (hades, pafTed between the 
 ftarely columns of tiie Magnolia grandi flora, and 
 came to the afcents fupporting the high forcits and 
 expanfive plains above — ^Vhiit a fylvan fcene is 
 
 here! 
 
405 TRAVELS IN* 
 
 here! the pompous Magnolia reigns fovereign oF 
 the forcfls ; how fwcet the aromatic lllicium groves ! 
 how gaily flutter the radiated wings of tt^e Mag- 
 nolia auiiculata, each branch fupporting an ex- 
 panded umbrella, fuperbly crefted with a filver 
 plume, fragrant bloflbm, or crimfon fludded flro- 
 bile and fruits i 1 recline on the verdant bank, 
 and view the beauties of the groves, iEfculus pa- 
 via, Prunus nemoralis, floribus racemofis, foUis 
 fempervirentibus, nitidis, ^^fculus alba, Kydrangia 
 quercifolia, Cafiine, Magnolia pyraniidata, foliis 
 ovatis, obiongis, acumindti;s, bafi auriculatis, ftro- 
 bilo oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula, 
 Halefea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon, 
 with many more. 
 
 Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at even- 
 ing came to, in fight of the confluence or junction 
 of the two large arms of the great Mobile river, i. e. 
 the Tombigbe or Chicafaw with the Alabama or 
 Coofau. About one hundred and fifty miles above 
 this conflux, at Ft. Thouloufe, the Alabama receives 
 into it from the Eafl: the great Talapoofe river, 
 ■when the former takes the name of Coofau, which 
 it bears to its fource, which is in the So. Weft pro- 
 montories of the Cherokee or Apalachian Moun- 
 tains in the Chicafaw territories. 
 
 Obferved very large alligators, bafl^ing on the 
 Ihores, as well as Rvimming in the river and la- 
 goons. 
 
 Next morning entered the Tpmbigbe, and af- 
 cended that fine river. Jufl within its Capes, on 
 the left hand, is a large lagoon, or capacious bay 
 of fl:ill water, containing many acres in furfice, 
 which at a difl:ant view prcfents a very fingular and 
 diverting fcene ; a delufive green wavy plain of the 
 
 Nympha^a 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 407 
 
 Nymphcea Nclumbo : the furface of the water is 
 overfpread with its round floating leaves, whilft: 
 thefe are fhadowed by a forefl of umbrageous leaves 
 with gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexible 
 icems, three or four feet high : thefe fine flowers 
 are double ag a rofe, and when exjvandcd are (t\en 
 or eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yel- 
 low colour. 'J'he feed velfel when ripe, is a large 
 truncated, dry porous capfule, its plane or difli 
 regularly perforated, each cell containing an oval 
 oflcous gland or nut, gf the fize of a filbert ; when 
 thefe are fully grown, before they become quite hard, 
 they are fweet and pleafant eating, and tafte like 
 chefnuts : I fed freely on them without any injury, 
 but found them laxative. I have obfervcd this 
 aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eaftern fhores 
 of this continent^ in the large rivers and lakes, from 
 New-Jerfey to this place, particularly in a large 
 pond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Caro- 
 lina, which is about two miles over and twelve 
 feet water, notwithftanding which its furface is al- 
 mofl: covered with the leaves of this plant ; it alfo 
 abounds in Wakamaw lake near the fame river, and 
 in Savanna river at Auguda, and all over Eaffc 
 Florida. 
 
 Proceeding up the river, came to at a very high 
 fteep blurt' of j-ed and particoloured tenacious clay, 
 mider a deep flratum of loofe fandy mould : after 
 afcending this Ileep bank of the river, I found my- 
 felf in an old field, and penetrating the forelfcs fur- 
 rounding, obferved them to be young growth, co- 
 vering very extenfive old plantations, which was 
 evident from the ridges and hillocks which once 
 raifed their Corn (Zea), Batatas, kc. I fuppofe this 
 to be the lite of an ancient foriliied poft of the 
 
 I'Vench, 
 
408 TRAVELS IN 
 
 French, as there appear veftiges of a rampart and 
 other traces of a fortrefs ; perhaps fort Louis de la 
 Mobile ; but in all probablHty it will not remain 
 long vifiblc, the ftream of the river making daily 
 encroachments on it, by Carrying away the land on 
 which it flood. 
 
 Obferved here amongfl other vegetable produc- 
 tions, a new fpeciesj or at lead a variety, of Hale- 
 fia diptera : thefe trees are of the fize and figure of 
 ordinary Mulberry trees, their ftems (liort, and 
 tops regular and fpreading, and the leaves large 
 and broad, in fize and figure refembling thofe of 
 our common wild Mulberry. 
 
 Oppofite this bluff, on the other fide of the river, 
 IS a diftrift of fwamp or low land, the richefl I ever 
 faw, or perhaps any where to be feen : as for the 
 trees I Ihall forbear to defcribe them, becaufe it 
 would appear incredible ; let it fuffice to mention, 
 that the Cyprus, Afli, Platanus, Populus, Llquid- 
 ambar, and others, are by far the talleft, flraightefl 
 and every way the mofl enormous that 1 have feen or 
 heard of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fer- 
 tility of the foil, the reeds or canes (Ar undo gigantea) 
 grow here thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as 
 a man's arm, or three or four inches in diameter ; 
 I fuppofe one joint of fome of them would contain 
 above a quart of v/ater ; and thefe reids ferve very 
 well for letting poles, or mafts for barks and canoes. 
 Continued yet afcending this fine river, paffmg 
 by the nioft delightful and fertile fituations : ob- 
 ferved frequently, on bluffs of high land, deferted 
 plantations, the houfes always burnt down to the 
 ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiv- 
 ing httle variation in the natural vegetable pro- 
 ductions, the currt;nt of the river ' preffins down 
 
 With 
 
KORTH AMEPvICA. 409 
 
 with increafed force and velocity, 1 turned about, 
 defcending the river, and next evening came to at 
 a large well cultivated plantation^ where I lodged 
 ;dl night, and the evening follown-.^ returned to 
 Taenfa. 
 
 Next day I felt fymptoms of a fever, which in a 
 few days bid me up and became dangerous. But 
 a dole of Tart. Emet. broke its violence ; and care 
 and good attendance, after a few day^in fome de- 
 gree reflored my health, at lead, fo far as to ena- 
 ble me to rove about the neighbouring forelts ; 
 and here being informed of a certain plant of ex- 
 traordinary medical virtues, and in high eftima- 
 tion with the inhabitants, which grew in the 
 hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river, 
 I refolved to fet out in fearch of it, the Major be- 
 ing fo polite and obliging as to furnifli me with 
 Iiorfes to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take care of 
 me. 
 
 Sat off in the morning, and in the courfe of the 
 day's journey crollcd Icveral creeks and brooks, one 
 of which fvvam our horfe.s. On palling by a fwamp 
 at the head of a hay or lagoon of the river, I ob- 
 ferved a fpecies oFCyprefs ; it differs a lirrle from the 
 white Cedar of New-Jcrfey and Pennfylvania (Cu- 
 preflTus thyoides), the trunk is Ihort and the limbs 
 fpread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves 
 and the cones lareer and of a crimfon or reddilh 
 purple colour when ripe. 
 
 After leaving the low grounds and afcendmg 
 the hiils, difcovercd the plant I went in fearch of, 
 whicii I had before frequently obferved in my de- 
 fcent from the Creek nation down towards Taenfa. 
 Tills plant ' appci^rs to be a fpecies of CoUinfonia ; 
 
 it 
 
413 TRAVELS IN 
 
 .it K diuretic and carminative, and cfleemed a 
 ]X)\verf"ul febrifuge, an infufion of its tops is ordi- 
 narily drunk at breakfafl:, and is of an exceeding 
 pleafant tafte and flavour : when In flower, which is 
 the time the inhabitants gatiier it for prefervation 
 and ufe, it poflfefl^es a lively aromatic fcent, partak- 
 ing of lemon and anifeed. Lodged this night at a 
 plantarion near the river, and met with civility and 
 good entertainment. The man and his three fons 
 are famous hunters. I was aflfured from good au- 
 thoiity that the old gentleman, for his own part, 
 kills three hundred deer annually, befides bears, 
 tygers, and wolves. 
 
 Next morning eaily, fat off again, on my return, 
 and talcing a ditlcrent path back, for the fake of va- 
 riety, though fomewhat farther about and at a 
 greater di fiance from the banks of the river, ob- 
 ferved abundance of the tall blue Sage : it grows 
 fix or feven feet high ; many flems arife from one 
 root or fource ; thefe flems are thick, woody and 
 quadrangular, the angles obtufe : the narrow lanr 
 ceolate and ferrated leaves are placed oppofite, 
 and are feffile, lightly embracing the branches, 
 which terminate wiih ipikcs of large flowers of a ccr 
 leilial blue colour. 
 
 Thefe flony gravelly heights produce a variety 
 of herbaceous plants, but one in particular I fliall 
 mention ©n account of its fmgular beauty : I be- 
 lieve it is a fpecies of Gerardea (Gerardea flammea) ; 
 }t grows erecl, a fmgle fl:em from a root, three or 
 four feet m height, branching very regularly from 
 about one half its length upwards, forming a cone 
 or pyramid, profufely garniflied with large tubular 
 labi^ted fcarlet or flame coloured flowers, which 
 give the plant a very fplendid appearance, even at 
 
 a great 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4II 
 
 CI great diilance. Returned home in the evening 
 fully fatisiied with the day's excurf.on, from the 
 difcovery of many curious and beautiful vegetables. 
 
 Having advice from Mobile of an opportunity 
 to Manchac, although my health was not cilablilh- 
 ed, feverifh fymptoms continuing.- lo lurk about mc, 
 I refolved, notwithflanding, immediately to embrace 
 this offer, and embarked again, dcfcending the ri- 
 ver to the city in company with Dr. Grant, a phy- 
 fician of the earrifon, and late in ilie evenine ar- 
 jiv^^d in town, having fullered a fmart fit of the fe- 
 ver by the way. 
 
 In the courfe of converfation v.'idi the doctor, I 
 remaiked that during my travels fince leaving the 
 Creek nation, and when there, I had not i'ccn any 
 honey bees. He replied, that there were fev/ or 
 none Weft of the illhmus of Florida, and but one 
 hive in Mobile, which was lately brought there from 
 Europe, the Englilh iuppofing that there were none 
 in the country, not fmding any when they took pof- 
 feifion of it after the Spanilh and French. I had 
 been aHurcd by the traders that there were none in 
 Well: Florida, 'which to me feerned extraordinary 
 nnd almoft incredible, huce they are fo numerous 
 Till along the rali:ern continent from Nova Scotia to 
 Kaft Florida, excn in the wild forelts, as to be 
 thought, by the generality of the inhabiiants, abo- 
 rigines of tf.is continent. 
 
 The boat in wliicii I had taken a pafTage (o Pearl 
 river, not bting in readiiiefs to depart for feveral 
 days to come, I fought opportunities to fill up this 
 lime to the belt advantage poliible ; and hearing 
 of a boat going (o the river Perdedo, for the pur- 
 pofe of fccuring the remains of a v>reck, I apprc- 
 
 li ended 
 
412 TRAVELS IN 
 
 bended this favourable time to go and fcarch that 
 coaft, the captain civilly offering me a paffage and 
 birth with him in a handfome light failing-boat. 
 Set fail early on a fine morning, and having a briik 
 leadin^"" breeze, came to in the evening juft within 
 Mobile point ; collected a quantity of drift wood to 
 keep up a light and fmoke away the mufquitoes, and 
 relied well on the clean fandy beach until the cool 
 morning awoke us. We hoifled fail again, and 
 foon doubled the point or Eafl promontory of the 
 cape of the bay, (Iretching out many miles and point- 
 in"- towards Dauphin ifland, between which and 
 this cape is the fhip channel. 
 
 Goading along the fea-fhore Eaftward, we foon 
 came up to the wreck, which being already drip- 
 ped of her fails, &c. our captain kept on for Pen- 
 facola, where we arrived late in the evening. 
 
 My arrival at this capital, at prefent the feat of 
 <Tovernment, was merely accidental and undefigned ; 
 and having left at Mobile all my papers and tefti- 
 monials, I defigned to conceal my avocations, but 
 my name being made knov/n to Dr. Lorimer, one 
 of the honourable council, he lent me a very polite 
 invitation, and requefted that he might acquaint 
 ?-overnor Cheder of my arrival, who he knev/ 
 would expect that I ftiould wait on him, and would 
 be pleafed to fee me. I begged to be excufed, at 
 this time, as the boat would fail back for Mobile in a 
 few hours, in which I was under the necedity of re- 
 turning, or mud lofe my pafiage to the Mididippi ; but 
 durin<^^ this expodulation I received a letter from 
 Mr. Livingdon the fecretary, whom I v/aited upon, 
 and was received very refpetirully and treated with 
 the utmod politenefs and affability. Soon after, the 
 governor's chariot paded by, his excellency return- 
 ing 
 
KOkTII AM£R.ICA. 413 
 
 ing from a morning vifit to his farm a few miles 
 from Penfacola. Mr. Livingflon went with me and 
 introduced me to the governor, who commended 
 my purfuits, and invited me to continue in Weft 
 Florida in refearches after fubjetSts of natural hif- 
 tory, &c. nobly offering to bear my expences, and 
 a refidence in his own family as long as I chofe to 
 continue in the colony ; very judicioufly obferving, 
 that a complete inveftigatlon of its natural hiftory 
 could not be accomplilhed in a fliort fpace of time, 
 fince it would require the revolution of the feafons 
 to difcover and view vegetable nature in all her va- 
 rious perfections. 
 
 The captain of our fortunate bark by this time 
 being ready to fail, I took leave of his excellency 
 the governor, and bid adieu to my friends Dr. Lo- 
 rimer, Mr. Livingflon, and others : fet fail about 
 noon on our return, and came to again within die 
 capes of Mobile river. 
 
 Since I have hitherto given a fuperficial account 
 of the towns, ports, improvements and other re- 
 markable produdions of nature, and human arts 
 and induflry, during the courfe of my perigrina- 
 tion, I fliall not pafs by Penfacola and its environs- 
 This city commands lome natural advantages, fu- 
 perior to any other port in this province, in point 
 of naval commerce, and fuch as human art and 
 flrength can never fupply. It is delightfully fituated 
 upon gentle rifmg afcents environing a fpacious 
 harbour, fafe and capacious enough to ihelter all the 
 navies of Europe, and excellent ground for anchor- 
 age ; the Weft end of St. Rofe ifland ftretches acrofs 
 the great bay St. Maria Galves, and its South- Weft 
 projeding point forms the harbour of Penfacola, 
 
 v/hich. 
 
4T4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ■which, with the road or entrance, Is defended by a 
 block-houfe built on the extremity ol that point, 
 •which at the lame time ferves the purpofe of a 
 fortrefs and look-out tower. There are feveral 
 rivers which run into this p^reat bay from the con- 
 tinent, but none of them navigable for large craft, 
 to any confiderable diltance into the country : the 
 Shambc is the largelt, which admit;? fhallops fome 
 miles up, and pevriauguas upwards of fiity miles. 
 There are fome fpots of good high land, and rich 
 fwamps, favourable for the produ(fl:ion of rice on 
 the banks of this liver, which have given rife to 
 fome plantations producing Indigo, Rice, Corn, 
 Batatas, &c. Thefe rivers diviJing and fpreading 
 abroad their nimierous branches, over the ex- 
 panfive flat low country (between the two great 
 rivers Apalachucla and Mobile), which confijts of 
 favannas and cane meadows, fill them v.ith brooks 
 and w^ater courfes, and render them exuberant paf- 
 ture for cattle. 
 
 There are feveral hundred habitations in Penfa- 
 cola ; the governor's palace is a large flone build- 
 ing ornamented with % tower, built by the Spani- 
 ards. The town is defended by a large llockado for- 
 trefs, the plan a tetragon with falient angles at each 
 coiner, where is a block-houfe or round tower, one 
 ftory higher than the curtains, where are light cannon 
 mounted : it is conflrufted of wood. Within this 
 fortrefs is the council chamber ; here the records are 
 kept, houfes for the officers and barracks for the ac- 
 com.modation of the garrifon, arfcnal, magazine, 
 kc. The fecretary refides in a fpacious, neat build- 
 ing : there are feveral merchants and gentlemen of 
 other profeffions, who have re'pe^table and conve- 
 nient buildings; in the town. 
 
 There 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4 i t; 
 
 There were growing on the fanJ hills, environ- 
 ing Penfacola, Icveral curious non-defcribcd plants ; 
 particularly one of the verticillate order, about 
 eighteen inches in height : the ilowers, which form- 
 ed loofe fpikes, were large and of a fine fcarlet 
 colour ; but not having time to examine the frudi- 
 fication, or colle<fl: good fpecimens, I am ignorant 
 of what order or genus it belongs to. And in 
 the level wet favannas grew plentifully a new and 
 very elegant fpecies of Saracinia (Saracinia lacuno- 
 fa) ; the leaves of this plant, which are twelve or 
 fourteen inches in length, fland nearly credl, are 
 round, tubular and ventricofc — but not ridged with 
 longitudinal angles or prominent nerves, as the 
 leaves of the Saracinia Hava are : the aperture at 
 top may be fliut up by a cap or lid, of a helmet 
 form, which is an appendage of the leaf, turning 
 over the orifice in that fmgular manner; the vcntrl- 
 cofe, or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale, 
 but vivid green colour, is beautifully ornamented 
 with rofe coloured ftuds or blifters, and the inner 
 furfa<!:e curioufly infcribcd, or variegated, with crim- 
 fon veins or fibres. It was pad the time for flower- 
 ing, but the plant in any fituation is a very great 
 curiofity. 
 
 Next morning early we arofe from our hard 
 fandy fea-beaten couch, being dilturbed^the whole 
 night by the troublelbme mufquitoes ; fet fail, and 
 before night returned fafe to the city of Mobile. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
4l5 TRAVELS m 
 
 C H A P. VII. 
 
 The next day after my return to Mobile, I 
 found myfelf very ill, and not a little alarmed by 
 an excelFive pain in my head, attended with a high 
 fever ; this diforder foon fettled in my eyes, nature 
 purfuing that way to expel the malady, caufmg a 
 mod painful defluxion of pellucid, corrofive water ; 
 notwithflanding, I next day fet off on board a large 
 trading boat, the property of a French gentleman, 
 and commanded by him (he being general interpre- 
 ter for the Chaclaw nation), on his return to his 
 'plantations, on the banks of Pearl river : our bark 
 was large, well equipped for falling, and m.anned 
 with three flout Negroes, to row in cafe of neccf- 
 ,fity. "We embarked in the evening, and came to 
 about fix miles below the town, at a pleafant farm, 
 the mader of which (who was a Frenchman) enter- 
 tained us in a very polite and friendly manner. 
 The \vind favourable, next morning early we fet 
 fail again, and having made extraordinary way, 
 about noon came up abreaft of a high fteep bluff, 
 or perpendicular cliff of high land, touching on 
 the bay of the "\Veff coaft, where we went on fliore, 
 to give liberty to the Haves to reft and refrefh 
 themfelves. In the mean time I accompanied the 
 captain on an excurfion into the fpacious level 
 forefts, which fpread abroad from the fhore to a 
 great diftance back ; obferved veftiges of an an- 
 cient fortrefs and fettlement, and there yet remain 
 a few pieces of iron cannon ; but what principally 
 attra«fted my notice, was three vaft iron pots or ket- 
 tles, each of many hundred gallons contents : upon 
 
 inquiry. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 417 
 
 inquiry, my aflbciate informed me they were for 
 the purpofe of boiling tar to pitch, there being va(t 
 forefts of Pine trees in the viciniry of this place. In 
 Carolina the inhabitants purfuc adiiferent method ; 
 when they defign to make pitch, they dig large 
 holes in the ground, near the tar kiln, which they 
 line with a thick coat of good clay, into which they 
 conduct a fuflicient quantity of tar, and fet it on 
 fire, fufiering it to flame and evaporate a length of 
 time fuflicient to convert it into pitch, and when 
 cool, lade it into barrels, and fo on umil they have 
 confumed all the tar, or made a fuflicient quantity 
 of pitch for their purpofe. 
 
 After re-imbarking, and leaving this blulFa few 
 miles, we put in to fliore again, and came to a 
 farm houfe, a little diflance from the water, where 
 we fupplied ourfelves with Corn meal. Batatas, 
 bacon, &lc. The French gentleman (proprietor of 
 the plantation) was near eighty years old, his hair 
 almofl: white with age, yet he appeared active, 
 flrong and mufculur ; and his mother who was pre- 
 fent, was one hundred and five years old, a<5livc 
 and cheerful, her eyes feemed as brilk apd fpark- 
 ling as youth, but flie was of a diminutive fize, not 
 half the flature and weight of her fon : it was now 
 above fifty years fmcc flie came into America from 
 old France. 
 
 I embarked again, proceeding dovx-n the bay, and 
 in the evening doubled the well point or cape of 
 the bay, being a promontory of the main, between 
 which and Dauphin ifland, we entered the channel 
 Oleron. From this time, until we arrived at this gen- 
 tleman's habitation on Pearl river, I was incapable 
 of making any obfervations, for my eyes could not 
 bear the light, as the ieaft ray admitted feemed 
 
 E e as 
 
4l3 TRAVELS IN 
 
 as the piercing of a fword : and by the time I had 
 arrived at Pearl river, the excruciating pain had 
 rendered me almod frantic and flupified for want 
 of fleep, of which I was totally deprived ; and the 
 corroding water, every few minutes, Itreaming from 
 my eyes, had flripped the Ikin off my face, in the 
 fame manner as Icalding water would have done. 
 I continued three days with this friendly Frenchman, 
 who tried every remedy, that he or his family could 
 recollecl, to adminifter relief, but to no purpofe. 
 My fituation was now become dangerous, and I 
 expected to fmk under ihe malady, as I believe my 
 friends here did. At lad the man informed me, that 
 on Pearl ifland, about twelve miles didance, refided 
 an Englifh gentleman, who had a variety of medi- 
 cines, and if I chofe to go to him he would take me 
 there. I accordingly bid adieu to this hofpitable 
 family, and fet oft' with him in a convenient boat ; 
 before night arrived at Mr. Rumfey's, who re- 
 ceived me kindly, and treated me with the utmofl 
 humanity, during a flay of four or five weeks. The 
 night however after my arrival here I fmcerely 
 thought would be my lafl, and my torments were 
 fo extreme as to defire It : havinij furvived this 
 tedious night, 1 in fome degree recovered my 
 fenfcs, and alked Mr. Rumicy if he had any Can- 
 tharides ; he foon prepared a bliltcring plailler for 
 me, which 1 direded to be placed betwixt rn^ fhoul- 
 ders; this produced the defired relief, and more than 
 anfwered my expedaiion, for it had not been there 
 a quarter of an hour before I fell afleep, and re- 
 mained fo a whole day, when I awoke intirely re- 
 hcved from pain, my fcnfes in perfect: harmony and 
 mind compoied. 1 do not know how to exprefs 
 myfelf on this occafion ; all was peace and tran- 
 quillity: although I had my fight imperfedly, yet my 
 
 body 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 419 
 
 body feemed but as a light (hadow, and my exiftence 
 as a pleafing delirium, for I fometimes doubted of 
 its reality. I however, from that moment began to 
 mend, until my health was perfectly reftored ; but 
 It was feveral weeks before I could expofe my eyes 
 to open day-light, and at lail 1 found my left eye 
 confiderably injured, which futfered the greateft 
 pain and weight of the difeafe. 
 
 As foon as I acquired ftrcngth to walk about, and 
 bear the lead impreihon of open day-light on my 
 eyes, I made frequent, indeed I may fay daily ex- 
 curfions in and about this ifland, llrolling fhroUt^h 
 its awful (hades, venerable groves and fublime fo- 
 refls, confiding of the Live Oaks and Magnolia 
 grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana, 
 Fagus fylvatica, Laur. SalTafras, Qiiercus hcmi- 
 fpherica, Tilia, Liquidambar flyraciflua, Morus, 
 Gleditfia, Callicarpa, HaleHa, Sec. 
 
 The ifland is fix or feven miles in length, and 
 four or five in width, including the fait marlhes and 
 plains, which inveft it on every fide, 1 believe we 
 may only except a narrow ilraud at the South end 
 of it, wallied by Lake Borgone at the Regullets, 
 which is a promontory compofed of banks of fea- 
 fhells and fand cafl up by the force of winds, and 
 the furf of the Lake ; thcle Ihells are chiefly a fmall 
 fpecies of white clam Ihells, called les coquilles. 
 Here are a few Ihiubs growing on_ thefe flielly 
 heighcs, viz, Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, My- 
 rica, Zanthoxylon clava HercuUs, Juniperus Ame- 
 ricana, Lyfium falfum ; together with I'everal new- 
 genera and fpecies of the herbaceous, and fulfruti- 
 cofe tribes, Croton, Stillingia, tvc. but particularly 
 a fpecies of MiinoTa (Mimofa virgata), which in 
 refpcct of the elegancy of its pinnated leaves, can 
 E e 2 not 
 
420 TRAVELS IN 
 
 not be exceeded by any of that celebrated family. 
 It is a perennial plant, fending up many nearly 
 erect ftems horn the root or fource ; thefe divide 
 themfelves into many afcendant llender rods like 
 branches, which are ornamented with double pin- 
 nated leaves, of a moft delicate formation. The 
 compound flov^'ers, are of a pale, greenifh yellow, 
 coUecled together in a fmall oblong head, upon a 
 long flender peduncle, the legumes are large, lu- 
 nated and flat, placed in a fpiral or contorted man- 
 ner, each containing feveral hard compreflcd feeds 
 or little beans. 
 
 The interior and by far the greater part of the 
 ifland confills of high land ; the foil to appearance 
 a heap of fea fand in fome places, with an admix- 
 ture of fea (hells ; this foil, notwithftanding its fandy 
 and ileril appearance, when divefted of its natural 
 vegetative attire, has from what caufc 1 know not, 
 :i continual refource of fertility within itfelf : the 
 furface of the earth, after being cleared of its origi- 
 nal vegetable productions, expofed a few feafons 
 to the fun, .winds, and triturations of agriculture, 
 appears fcarcely any thing but heaps of while fand, 
 vet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans, 
 Feas, Cotton, Tobacco, and almod every fort or 
 efculent vegetable, in a 'degree of luxuriancy very 
 faiprizing and unexpecled, year after year, incef- 
 fantly, without any addition of artificial manure or 
 compoft : there is indeed a foundation of flrong 
 adhefive clay, confifting of (Irata of various colours, 
 which I difcovered by examining a well, lately dug 
 in Mr. Rumfey's yard ; but lying at a great depth 
 under the furface, the roots of fmall flirubs and 
 iu;rbage, cannot reach near to it, or receive any 
 benefit, unlefs we may fuppofe, that afcending 
 
 fumes 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 421 
 
 fames or exhalations, from this bed of clay, may 
 have a vivilic nutritive quality, and be received by 
 the fibres of the roots, or being condenfed in the 
 atmofphere by noc1:in-nal chills, fall -w ith devvs upon 
 the leaves and twigs of thefe plants, and there ab- 
 forbed, become nutritive or exhilerating to them. 
 
 Befides the native foreft trees and flirubs already 
 noted, manured fruit trees arrive in this ifland to 
 the utmofl: degree of perfedion, as Pears, Peaches, 
 Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs, kc. ; of the laft men- 
 tioned genus, there is a native fpccies grows in this 
 ifland, which produces its large oblong crimfon 
 fruit in prodigious abundance ; the fruit, though of 
 a molt enticing appearance, is rather too tart, yet- 
 agreeable eating, at fultry noon,' in this burning 
 climate ; it affords a molt delicious and reviving 
 marmalade, when preferved in fugar, and makes 
 excellent taits ; the tree grows about twelve feet 
 high, the top fpreading, the branches fpiny and the 
 leaves broad, nervous, fcrrated, and terminating 
 with a fubulated point. 
 
 My eyes having acquired fufTicIent flrength to 
 endure the open day light, I fet off from Pearl 
 ifland, for Manchac on the IMiffifiippi, in a handfome 
 large boat, with three Negroes to navigate her. 
 Leaving the friendly Mr. Rumfey's feat on Pearl 
 Ifland, we defcended a creek from the landing 
 near his houfe ; this creek led us about a miic, 
 winding through fait f^dgy marflies, into Lake 
 Pontchartrairt, along whofe North fliores we coafl- 
 ed about twenty miles, having lov/, reedy marflies, 
 on our Itarboard : thefe marflies were very exten- 
 fjve between us and the far difl'ant hig-h forefls on 
 the main : at evening the fliore became bolder, with 
 fundy elevations, affording a fev/ dwarf Oaks, Zan- 
 
 thoxylon. 
 
422 TRAVELS IN 
 
 thoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We came 
 to in a little bay, kindled a fire, and after fupper 
 betook ourfelves to repofe ; our fituation open, airy 
 and cool, on clean fand banks ; we relied quietly, 
 though fometimes roufed by alarms from the croco- 
 diles, which are herein great numbers, and of an 
 enormous bulk and flrength. 
 
 Next day early we p^ot under way, purfuing our 
 former courfe, nearly Weft ward, keeping the North 
 ihore feveral leagues. Immediately back of this 
 high fandy ftranu, (which is caft up by the beating 
 furf and winds, fetting from feaward, acrofs the 
 wideft part of the lake) the ground fudd^nly falls, 
 and becomes extenfive flat Cyprefs fwamps, tlic 
 fources of creeks and rivers, which run into the 
 lake, or Pearl River, or other places ; the high 
 forefts of the main now gradually approaching the 
 lake, advance up to the very fliore, where we find 
 houfes, plantations and new fetllements : we came 
 to at one of them charmingly fituated, fet fail again, 
 and came up to the mouth of the beautiful Taen- 
 fapaoa, which takes that name from a nation of In- 
 dians, who formerly pofleiTed the territories lying on 
 its banks, which are fertile and delightful regions. 
 This river is narrow at its entrance, but deep, and 
 faid to be navigable for large barks and periauguas 
 upwards of fifty miles, juil M'ithin its capes, on 
 the leeward fliore, are heights, or a group of low 
 hills (compofed of the fmall clam fliells, called les 
 coquiiles), which gradually deprefs as we retreat 
 back from the river, and the furface of the land is 
 more level ; thefe fhells diffolving and.mixing with 
 the furface, render the vegetative mould black, 
 rich, and productive. Here are a few habitations, 
 and fome fields cleared and cultivated ; but the 
 
 inhabitants 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 423 
 
 inhabitants neglect agriculture, and generally em- 
 ploy themfelves in hunting and fifliing: we however 
 i'urnifhed ourl'elves here with a fufBciency of ex- 
 cellent Batatas. I obferved no new vegetable pro- 
 dudions, except a fpecies of Cleome (Cleome lu- 
 pinifoHa) ; this plant polfcffes a very (hcng fcent, 
 fomevvhat like Gum Aili\fetida, notwitliitanding 
 which the inhabitants give it a place in foups and 
 fauces. 
 
 From Taenfapaoa, we fllU coailed Weflward, 
 three or four miles, to the flraits that communicate 
 ■with the lake Maurepas ; entering which and conti- 
 nuing fix or eight miles, having low fwampy land on 
 each fide, the channel divides, forming an ifland in 
 rhe middle of the pafs : we took the right hand chan- 
 nel, which continues three or four miles, when the 
 channels reunite in full view of the charming lake. 
 We came to at an elevated point, or promontory, on 
 the (larboard main fhore, it being the North cape, 
 from whence 1 enjoyed a very plealing and complete 
 view of the beautiful lake Maurepas ; entering which 
 next morcing, a Heady favourable gale foon wafted 
 us nine or ten m.iles over to the mouth of the river 
 Amite ; afcended between ixs low banks ; the land 
 on each fide a levtl fwamp, about two feet above 
 the furfacc of the water, fuj)porting a thick fcrert 
 of trees, confiding chiefly of Fraxinus, Nyfi'a aqua- 
 lica, NviTa multiflora, CupreiTus diilicha, Quercus 
 phillos, Acer rubrum, Ac negundo, Acer glaucum, 
 Sambucus, Laurus Borbonia, Carpinus, Ulmus, and 
 others. The foil or earth humid, black and rich. 
 There is fcarcely a perceptible current : the water 
 dark, deep, turgid and ftagnatc, being from flioie 
 to Ihore covered with a fcum or pellicle of a green 
 and purplifli caft, and perpetually throwing up 
 
 frpm 
 
4i4 TRAVELS IN* 
 
 from the mudJy bottom to its furface minute air 
 bladders or bubbles : in fhort, thefe dark loathfome 
 waters, from every appearance, feem to be a llrong 
 e.xtracl or tincture of the leaves of the trees, herbs 
 and reeds, arifmg from the (liores, and which almofl: 
 overfpread them, and float on the furface, infomuch 
 that a great part of thefe flagnate rivers, during the 
 fummer and autumnal feafons, are conftrained to 
 pafs under a load of grafs and weeds ; which are 
 continually vegetating, and fpreading over the fur- 
 face from the banks, until the rifmg floods of win- 
 ter and fpring, rufliing down from the main, fvvecp 
 them away, and purify the waters. Late in the 
 evening we difcovered a narrow ridge of land clofe 
 to the river bank, high and dry enough to fufl'er us 
 to kindle a fire, and fpace fuflicient to fpread our 
 bedding on. But here, fire and fmoke were infuf- 
 ficient to expel the hods of mufquitoes that inveflied 
 our camp, and kept us awake during the long and 
 tedious night, fo that the alligators had no chance 
 of taking us napping. We were glad to rife'early 
 in the morning, proceeding up the Amite. The 
 land nov/ gradually rifes, the banks become higher, 
 the foil drier and firmer four or five feet above the 
 furface of the river, the trees are of an incredible 
 magnitude, particularly Platanus occidentalis, Frax- 
 inus, ulmus, Quercus hemifpherica, &c. The 
 Canna Indica grows here in furprifing luxuriance, 
 prefenting a glorious fliow ; the Hem rifes fix, feven 
 and nine feet high, terminating upwards with fpikes 
 of fcarlet flowers. 
 
 Now having advanced near thirty miles up the 
 Amite, we arrived at a very large plantation, the 
 property of a Scotch gentleman, who received me 
 
 with 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 with civility, entreating me to rcfiJe with him ; but 
 being impatient to get to the river, and pleading 
 the neceflity of profecuting my travels with alacrity, 
 on account of the fcafon being fo far advanced, I 
 was permitted to proceed, and fet off next morn- 
 -ing. Still afcending the Amite about twenty miles 
 farther, arrived at the forks, where the Iberville 
 comes in on the left hand, afcending vi hich a little 
 way, we foon came to tlie landing, where are ware- 
 houfes for depofiting merchandize, this being the ex- 
 tremity of navigation up this canal, and here fmall 
 velfels load ^ind unload. From this place to Man- 
 chac, on thebanks of theMifliuippi, jufi: above the 
 mouth of the canal, is nine miles by land ; the 
 road (Iraight, fpacious, and perfedly level, under 
 (he {liadovk-- of a grand foreft ; the trees of the firll: 
 order in magnitude and beauty, as Magnolia gran- 
 diflora, Liriodendron tuHpifera, Platanus, Juglans 
 nigra, Fiaxinus excehior, Morus rubra, Lauru>; 
 faflalras, Laurus Boibonia, Tilea, Liquidambar 
 llyracifiua, 5cc. 
 
 At evening arrived at Manchac, when I direclcJ 
 my fteps to the banks of the Milliflippi, where 1 ftood 
 for a time as it were fafcinatcd by the magnificence 
 of the great fiie ' of rivers. 
 
 The depth of the liver here, even in this feafon, 
 at its lowell ebb, is aflonilhing, not Icfs than forty 
 fathoms ; and the width about a mile or fomewliut 
 iefs : but it is not cxpanfion of furfacc alone that 
 , flrikes us with ideas of magnificence ; the altitude 
 and theatrical afccnts of its penfiie banks, the ftea- 
 dy courfe of the nughty flood, the trees, high fo- 
 lelfs, even every particular objed, as well as focie- 
 
 * Which is the meanirg of Uic \T*)rd MiflKTippi. 
 
 ties. 
 
426 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ties, bear the (lamp of fuperiority and excellence j; 
 all unite or combine in exhibiting a profpect of the 
 ^rand lliblinie. The banks of the river at Manchac, 
 though frequently overflowed by the vernal inunda- 
 tions, are about fifty feet perpendicular height above 
 the farface of the water (by which the channel at 
 thofe times mull be about two hundred and ninety 
 feet deep) ; and thefe precipices being an accumu- 
 lation of the fediment of muddy waters, annually 
 brought do'vvn with the floods, of a light loamy con- 
 fiftence, ccntiiiually cracking and parting, prefent 
 to view deep yawning chafms, iri time fplit oiF, as 
 the aclive perpetual current undermines j and the 
 mighty mafles of earth tumble headlong into the 
 river, whofe impetuous current fweeps away and 
 lodges them elle where. Theie are yet vifible fome 
 remains of a high artificial bank, in front of the 
 buildings of the town, formerly call up by the 
 French, to refifl the inundations, but found to be 
 ineft'edual, and now in part tumbled down the pre- 
 cipice : as the river daily encroaches on the bluff, 
 fome of the habitations are in danger, and muft be 
 very foon removed orfwallowed up in the deep gulph 
 of Yv^aters. A few of the buildings that have been 
 eilablirned by the Englidi fnice taking pofleflion of 
 the colony, are large and commodious, particularly 
 the warehoufes of Melfrs. Swanfon & Co. Indian 
 traders and merchants. 
 
 The Spaniards have a fmall fortrefs and garrifon 
 on the point of land below the Iberville, clofe by 
 the banks of the river, which has a communica- 
 tion with Manchac, by a flender narrow wooden 
 bridge acrofs the channel of Iberville, fupported on 
 wooden pillars, and not a bow fliot from the habi- 
 iations cf Manchac. The Iberville in the fummer 
 
 feafoii 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 427 
 
 feaion is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet 
 above the furface of the Mifliflippi ; but in tlie win- 
 ter and fpring has a great depth of water, and a 
 very rapid dream which flows into the Amite, thence 
 down through the hd^^es into the bay of Pearls to 
 the ocean. 
 
 Having recommendations to the inhabitants of 
 Batonrouge, lunv called New-Richmond, more than 
 fc ty miles higher up the river, one of thefe gentle- 
 men being prel'ent at Manchac, gave me a friendly 
 and 'polite invitation to accompany him on his re- 
 turn home. A pleafant morning ; we fat off after 
 breakfall, well accommodated in a handfome con- 
 venient boat, rowed by three blacks. Two miles 
 above Manchac we put in to fhore at Alabama : this 
 Indian village is delightfully fituated on feveral 
 fu elling green hills, gradually afcending from the 
 verge of the river : the people are a remnant of 
 the ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited the 
 Eaft arm of the great Mobile river, which bears 
 their name to this day, now pofleffed by the Creeks 
 or Mufcogulges, w ho conquered the former, 
 
 ]\Iy friend having puxchafed fome bafkets and 
 earthenware, the manuladures of the people, we 
 left the village, and proceeding twelve miles higher 
 up the river, landed again at a very large and well 
 cultivated plantation, where we lodged all night. 
 Obferved growing in a fpacious garden adjacent to 
 the houfe, many ufeful as well as curious exotics, 
 particularly the delicate and fweet Tube-rofe (Poly- 
 anthus tuberofa) : it grows here in the open garden ; 
 the flowers were very large and abundant on the 
 Hems, which were five, fix or kvcn feet high, but 
 I faw none here having double flowers. In one cor- 
 ner of the garden was a pond or marfn, round about 
 
 which 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 which grew luxuriantly the Scotch grafs (Panlcura 
 hirtellum, gramen panlcuni maximum, fpica divifa, 
 ariflis armatum, Sloan, jam. Cat. p. 30): the peo- 
 ple introduced this valuable grafs from the Weft- 
 Jndian iflands : they mow or reap it at any time, and 
 feed it green to cows or horfes ; it is nourilhing 
 food for all cattle. The Humble plant (Mimoia 
 pudica) grows here five or 'fix feet high, rambling 
 like Brier vines over the fences and Ihrubs, all 
 about the garden. The people here fay it is an in- 
 digenous plant, but this I doubt, as It is not feen 
 crrowinsf v/ild in the forefts and fields, and it differs 
 m no refpect from that which we protect m green 
 houfes and iloves, except in the extent and luxuri- 
 ancy of its branches, which may be owing to the 
 productive virgin mould and temperature of the 
 climate. They however pay no attention to its 
 culture, but rather condemn it as a noxious trou- 
 blefome weed, for wherever It gets footing, it 
 fprcads itfelf by" its feed in fo great abundance as 
 to opprefs and even extirpate more ufeful vegeta- 
 bles. 
 
 Next day we likewife vifited feveral delightful 
 and fpacious plantations on the banks of the river, 
 during our progrefs upwards : in the evening ar- 
 rived at my friend's habitation, a very delightful 
 villa, with extenfive plantations of Corn (Zea), In- 
 digo, Cotton and fome Rice. 
 
 A day or two after our arrival we agreed upon 
 a vifit to Point Coupe, a flourifliing French fettle- 
 ment on the Spanifh Ihore of the Milfiffippi. 
 
 Early rext morning we fet oif in a neat Cyprefs 
 boat with three oars, proceeding up the river ; and 
 h\ nitiht 2;ot to a large plantation near the White 
 
 elms, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 429 
 
 cllfi's, now called Brown's cliffs, in honour of the 
 late governor of Weft Florida, now of the Ba- 
 hama Iflands, who is proprietor of a large dillricl 
 of- country, lying on and adjacent to the Cliffs. 
 At the time of my refidence with ]\Ir. Rumfey* 
 at Pearl ifland, governor Brown, then on his paf- 
 fage to his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr. 
 Rumfey a vifit, who politely introduced me to 
 his excellency, acquainting him with my character 
 and purfuits : he defired me to explore his teriito- 
 ry, and give him my opinion of the quality of the 
 White plains. 
 
 Auguft 27th, 1777, having in readinefs horfes 
 well equipt, early in the morning we fet off for the 
 plains. About a niile from the river we croffed a 
 deep gully and fmall rivulet, then immediately en- 
 tered the Cane forefls, following a ftraight avenue 
 cut through them, off from the river, w hich conti- 
 nued about eight miles, the ground gradually but 
 imperceptibly rifmg before us : when at once opened 
 to view expanfive plains, which are a range of native 
 graffy fields of many miles extent, lyinj parallel 
 with the river, furrounded and interfered with Cane 
 brakes and high foreits of (lately trees ; the foil 
 black, extremely rich and produdive, but the vir- 
 gin mould becomes thinner and iefs fertile as it 
 verges on to the plains, which are fo barren as 
 fcarcely to produce a bufli or even grafs, in the mid- 
 dle or higheft parts. The upper flratum or furface 
 of the earth is a whitifn clay or chalk, with veins of 
 fea fliells, chielly of thofe little clams called les co- 
 qullles, or interfperfcd with the white earth or clav, 
 fo tenacious and hard as to render it quite fteril ; 
 fcarcely any vegetable growth to be feen, except 
 fhort grafs, or cruflaceous moffes ; and fome places 
 quite bare, where it is on the furface j but where it 
 
 lies 
 
43^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 lies from eighteen inches to two or three feet be- 
 low, it has the virtue of fertiUzing the virgin 
 mould above, rendering it black, humid, foapy, 
 and incredibly produftive. 
 
 I obferved two or three fcrubby Pine trees or 
 rather dwarf buflies, upon the highelt ridge of 
 thefe plains, which are viewed here as a curiofity, 
 there being no Pine forefls within feveral leagues 
 diftance from the banks of this great river, but, on 
 the contrary, feemingly an endlefs wilderneis of 
 Canes, and the moil magnificent forefts of the 
 trees already noted, but particularly Platanus 
 occidentalis, Liriodendron, Magnolia grandiflora, 
 Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Juglans nigra, Juglans 
 exalt? ta, Tilea, Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacan- 
 thus, Laurus Borbonia, and Laurus faffafras ; this 
 lafl: grows here to a vaft tree, forty or fifty feet 
 straight trunk ; its timber is found to be ufeful, 
 fawn into boards and fcantling, or hewn into pods 
 for building and fencing. 
 
 On the more fertile borders of the plains, ad- 
 joining the furrounding forefts, are Sideroxylon, 
 Pyrus coronaria, and Strawberry vines (Fragaria) 
 but no fruit on them ; the inhabitants aifured me 
 they bore fruit in their feafon, very large, of a fine 
 red colour, delicious and fragrant. 
 
 Having made our tour and obfervatlons on the 
 White plains, we returned to the river at the clofe ' 
 of the day, and next morning fat oft for Point Cou- 
 pe : paffed under the high painted cliffs, and then 
 let our courfe acrofs the Miiliilippi, which is here 
 near two miles over : touched at a large ifland near 
 the middle of the river, b'.ing led there, a little out 
 
 of 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4^t 
 
 of our way, in purfult of a bear croiTing from the 
 main, but he out-fvvam us, reached the iiiand, 
 and made a fafe retreat in the forelts entanoled 
 with vines ; we however purfued him on ihore, 
 but to no purpofe. After refiing a while, we re- 
 embarked and continued on our voyage, coaftint^ 
 the Eatl fliore of the ifland to the upper end ; here 
 we landed again, on. an extended projecting point 
 of clean fand and pebbles, where were to be feeii 
 pieces of coal ilicking in the gravel and fand, to- 
 gether with other fragments of tlie foffil king-* 
 dom, brought down by inundations and lodged 
 there. We obferved a large kind of mufcle in thg' 
 fand ; the fliell of an oval form, having horns or 
 protuberances near half an inch in length and as 
 thick as a crow quill, which 1 fuppofe ferve the 
 purpofe of grapnels to hold their ground againfl 
 the violence ot the current. Here were great num- 
 bers of wild fowl wadin(][ in the ftioal water that 
 covers the fandy points, to a vaft diftance from 
 the 111 ores : they were geefe, brant, gannet, and 
 the great and beautiful whooping crane (grus al- 
 ber.) Embarked again, doubled the point of the 
 ifland and arrived at Point Coupe in the evening. 
 
 We made our vifit to a French gentleman, an 
 ancient man and wealthy planter, who, according 
 to the hiftory he favoured us with of his own life 
 and adventures, muft have been very aged ; his 
 hair was of a fdky white, yet his complexion was 
 llorid and coniUtution athletic. lie faid that foon 
 after he came to America, with many families of 
 his countrymen, they afcended the river to the 
 Cliffs of the Natches, where they fat down, being 
 entertained by the natives ; and- under cover of a 
 flrong fortrefs and garrilbn, eriabiiilied a fettle- 
 m.nt, and by cultivating the land and forming 
 
 phtn- 
 
4j2 TRAVELS lU 
 
 plantations. In league and friendfliip with the In- 
 dians, in a few years they became a populous, 
 rich and growing colony ; when through the im- 
 prudent and tyrannical conduct of the commandant 
 towards the Natches, the ancients of the country, 
 a very powerful and civilized nation of red men, 
 who were fovercigns ci' the foil, and poffeifed the 
 country round a'bout them, they became tired of 
 thefe comers, and exafpeiated at their cruelty and 
 licentioufnefs, at length determining to revenge 
 themfelves of fuch inhumanity and ingratitude, 
 fecretly confpired their deflrufuion ; and their 
 meafures were fo well concerted with crher Indian 
 tribes, that if it had not been for the treachery of 
 one of their princeiTcs, with w-hom the commander 
 was In favour (for by her Influence her nation at- 
 tempted the deflruftlon of the fettlement, before 
 their , auxiliaries joined them, which afforded an 
 opportunity for fome few of the fettlers to efcape), 
 they would have fully accompliflied their purpofe. 
 However the fettleruent was entirely broken up, 
 mod of the Inhabitants being flaughtered in one 
 night, and the few who efcaped betook themfelves 
 to their canoes, defcending the river until they 
 arrived at this place, where they ellabliflied them- 
 felves again j and this gentlem.an had only time and 
 opportunity to take into his boat one heifer calf, 
 which he allured us was the mother of the nume- 
 rous herds he now poliefies, confiding of many 
 hundred head. Heie is now a very refpectable 
 village, defended by a flrong fortrefs and garrifon 
 of Spaniards, the commander being governor ot 
 the diftricl. 
 
 The French here are able. Ingenious and In- 
 duftrious planters: they live eafy and plentifully, 
 and arc far more regular and commendable in the 
 
 enjoy- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 433 
 
 enjoyment of their earnings than their neighbours 
 the Englifli : (heir drcfs ol their own inanuta<5lures, 
 well wrought and neatly made up, yet not extrava- 
 gant or loppilh : manners and converfation eafy, 
 moral and entertaining;. 
 
 o 
 
 Next morning we fat off again on our return 
 home, and calkd by the way at the Cliffs, which 
 is a perpendicular bank or bluff, rifmg up out ot 
 the river near one hundred feet above the prefent 
 fur face of tiie water, whofe active current fweeps 
 along by it. From eight or nine feet below the 
 loamy vegetative mould at top, to within four er 
 five feet of the water, thcfo cliffs prefent to vievv 
 flrata of clay, marie and chalk, of all colours, as 
 brown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple ; there 
 are feparate flrata of thefe various colours, as well 
 as mixed or particolouied : the lowelt ftratum 
 next the water is exadly of the fame black mud 
 or rich foil a*^ the adjacent low Cyprefs fwamps, 
 above and below the bluff; and here in the cliffs 
 we fee vafl flumps of Cyprefs and other trees, 
 which at this day grow in thefe low, wet fwamps, 
 and which range on a level with them. Thefe 
 flumps are found, fland upright, and feem to be 
 rotted off about two or three feet above the fpread 
 of their roots ; their trunks, hmbs, kc. lie in all 
 directions about them. But when thefe fwampy 
 forefts were growing, and by what caufe thev 
 were cut off and overwhelmed by the various 
 flrata of earth, v.'hich now rife near one hundred 
 feet above, at the brink of the cliffs, and two or 
 three times that height but a few hundred yards 
 back, are enquiries perhaps not eafily anfwered. 
 The fwelling heights rifmg gradually over and 
 beyond this precipice are now adorned with high 
 Ibrefls of ftalely Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus, 
 
 F f Quercu:^, 
 
434 TRAVELS IN 
 
 C)uerciis, I.aurus, Moms, Juglans, Tilia, Ha- 
 lefia, TErcLilas, Callicarpa, Liriodeiidron, &c. Ar- 
 rived in the evening at the plantation below the 
 Clifl's, and the next day got faie back to my friend's 
 habitation. 
 
 Obferved few vegetable proJuclions difierent 
 from what grow in Carolina and Georgia ; per- 
 haps in the fpring and early fummer feafon, here 
 may be fome new plants, particularly in the high 
 forefls and ridges, at fome diftance from the ri- 
 ver : there is hov/ever growing in the rich high 
 lands, near on the banks of the river, which I ob- 
 ferved in the fettlement of Baton Rouge, an ar- 
 borefcent aromatic vine, which mounts to the tops 
 of the higheft trees, by twifting or writhing fpir- 
 ally round them ; fome of thefe vines are as 
 thick as a man's leg, of a foft fpungy texture, 
 and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon coloured 
 bark, which is highly aromatic or fpicy. The 
 large oblong leaves fit oppolite on the branches, 
 and are of a full deep green colour ; but its fea- 
 fon of flowering being paft, and the feed fcatter- 
 ed, I am entirely ignorant to what genus it be- 
 longs ; perhaps it is a non-defcript or new genus. 
 Here is likewlfe a new and beautiful fpecies of 
 Verbena, with decumbent branches and lacerat- 
 ed deep green leaves ; the branchcr. terminate 
 with corymbi of violet blue flowers : this pretty 
 ])lant grov/s in old liclds where there is a good 
 foil. 
 
 The fevere diforder in my eyes fubverted the 
 ])lan of my peregrinations, and contracted the 
 .ipan of my pilgrimage South-Weflward. This 
 difappointnient alFecled me very lenfibly, but re- 
 fi'-'naiion and rcafcn refuming their empire over 
 
 my 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 435 
 
 my mind, 1 fubmitted, and determined to return to 
 Carolina. 
 
 Receiving information that the company's 
 fchooner was ready to fail for Mobile, I embarked 
 on board a trading boat for Manchac, where ar- 
 riving in the evening, I took leave next morning 
 of MelTrs. Swanfon and Co. and fet ofl' for the 
 forks of the Amite, and next day fet fail, de- 
 fcending the tardy current of the Amite. Ob- 
 fervlng two bears crofling the river a-head, though 
 our pieces were ready charged, and the yajvl along 
 fide to receive us, we purfued them in vain, they 
 fwam fwiftly acrofs and efcaped in the forefls on the 
 ifland of Orleans. The breeze dying away at even- 
 ing, we came to anchor, and had variety of amufe- 
 ments at filhing and fowling. 
 
 Next day, November 13th, 1777, with a fteady 
 leading breeze, entered and failed over the lake 
 Maurepas, and through the ftreights into the 
 Pontchartrain, and continued under fail ; but at 
 midnight, by keeping too near the Weft fliore, 
 we ran aground on a fand-bar, where we lay 
 beating the hard fandy bottom until morning, 
 and our yawl parting from us in the night, which 
 we never recovered, we were left to the mercy of 
 the winds and floods ; but before noon the wind 
 coming brifkly from North-Eaft, driving the fea 
 into the lake, we got off, made fail ?gain, and 
 before night palled through the Regullets, en- 
 tering the ocean through the bay of Pearls, fail- 
 inn^ rhroucrh the found betvixt Cat ifland and the 
 llrand of the continent ; pafling by the beautiful 
 bay St. Louis, into which defcend many delight- 
 ful rivers, which flow from the lower or maritime 
 fettlcmcnts of the Chaftaws or Flatheads. Con- 
 tinuing through the found between the oyfter 
 F f 3 banks 
 
43^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 banks and flioals of Ship and Horn iflands, and 
 the high and bold coaft of Biloxi on the main, got 
 through the narrow pafs Aux Chriflians, and foon 
 came up abreaft of Ifle Dauphin, betwixt whofe 
 fhoals and the Wefl Cape of Mobile Bay we got 
 aground an fome funken oyllcr banks ; but next 
 day a brill: Southerly wind rarfed the fea on the 
 coaft, which lifted us oil" again, and fetting fail, we 
 (hot through the Pafs au Oieion, and entering the 
 bay, by night came to anchor fafe again at the city 
 of Mobile. 
 
 After having made up my colleclions of grow- 
 ing roots, feeds and curious fpecimens, left them 
 to the care of Meifrs. Swanfon and M'Gillavry, 
 to be forwarded to Dr. Fothergill of London. I 
 prepared to fet o£F again to Augufla in Georgia, 
 through the Creek Nation, the only practicable 
 "way of returning by Ian J, being fruilrated ol 
 purfuing my intended rout \vhich I had meditat- 
 ed, through the territories of the Siminoles or 
 Lower Creeks, they being a treacherous people, 
 lying fo far from the eye and controul of the na- 
 lion with whom they arc confederate, that there 
 had lately been depredations and murders com- 
 mitted by them at the bay of Apalache, on fome 
 families of white people who were migrating from 
 Georgia, with an intention of fecrllng on the 
 Mobile. Having to p?.f> the dluance of near 
 two hundred miles to the fu-il town of the na- 
 tion, through a folitary, uninhabited wilderncfs, 
 the bloody field of Schambe, where thofe con- 
 tending bands of Americcin bravos, Creeks and 
 Chaclaws, often meet in dire confllcl ; for the 
 better convenience and fecurity, I joined company 
 v.'idi a caravan of traders, now about fetting oif for 
 the nation. 
 
 Obferved 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 437 
 
 Obferved growing In a garden in Mobile, two 
 large trees of the Juglans pecan, and the Diof- 
 corea bulbifcra : this lalt curious plant bears a large 
 kidney fliaped root, one, two or three iit the bofon\ 
 of the leaves, feveral feet from the ground, as they 
 climb up poles or fupports fet by their roots j thefe 
 roots when boiled or roafted are efteemed a pleafant 
 wholefome food, and tafte like the ordinary Yam. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
4^^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 November 27th, 1777, fat ofF from IMobilc, 
 in a large boat with the principal trader of the com- 
 pany, and at evening arrived at Taenfa, where 
 were the pack-horfemen with the merchandize, and 
 next morning as foon as we had our hories in readi- 
 nefs, I took my lait leave of Major Farmer, and left 
 Taenfa. Our caravan confided of between twenty 
 and thirty horfes, fixteen of which were loaded, 
 two pack-horfemen, and mvfelf, under the direction 
 of Pv'Ir. Tap — y the chief trader. One of our young 
 men was a Muiiee Creek, his mother being a Chac- 
 taw fiave, and his father a half breed, betwixt a 
 Creek and a white man. I loaded one horfe with 
 my effecls, fome prefents to the Indians, to enable 
 me to purchafe a frefn horfe, in cafe of neceflity ; 
 for my old trufty Have which had ferved me faith- 
 fully almoft three years, having carried me on his 
 back at leafl fix thoufand miles, was by this time 
 almoft worn out, and I expefted every hour he would 
 give up, efpecially after I found the manner of thefe 
 traders* travelling. They feldom decamp until the 
 fun is high and hot ; each one having a whip 
 made of the tougheft cow-fkin, they ftart all at 
 once, the horfes having ranged themfelves in re- 
 gula}: Indian file, the veteran in the van, and the 
 younger in the rear ; then the chief drives with 
 t'le crack of his whip, and a whoop or fhriek, 
 which rings through the forefts and plains, fpeaks 
 In Indian, comm.anding them to proceed, which 
 is repeated by all the company, when we ftart 
 at once^ keeping up a briik and conftant trot, 
 
 which 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 439 
 
 '"which is inceffanrly urged and continued as lonor 
 ^s the miferable creatures are able to move for- 
 ward ; and then come to camp, -though fre- 
 quently in the middle of the afternoon, which is 
 the pleafantefl: time of the day for travelling ; 
 and every horfe has a bell on, which being (lop- 
 ped when we Itart in the morning with a tvvift of 
 grafs or leaves, foon (hakes out, and they are 
 never (lopped again during the day. The con- 
 ftant ringing and clattering of the bells, fmack- 
 ing of the whips, whooping and too frequent 
 curfmg thefe miferable quadrupeds, caufe an in- 
 ceifant uproar and confufion, inexpreflibly difa- 
 greeable. 
 
 After three days travelling in this mad man- 
 ner, my old fcrvant was on the point oi giving 
 out, and feveral of the company's horfes were 
 tired, but were relieved of their burthens by the 
 led horfes which attended for that purpofe. I 
 was now driven to difiigreeable extremities, and 
 had no other alternative, but either to leave my 
 horfe in the woods, pay a very extravagant liire 
 for a doubtful piiflage to the Nation, or feparate 
 myfelf from my companions, and wait the reco- 
 very of my horfe alone : the chief gave me no 
 other com'brtabic ad^'ice in this dilemma, than 
 that, there was a company of traders on the road 
 a-head cf us from the Natjon, . to Mobile, who 
 had a large gang of led hoifes with them for fcile, 
 when they fiiould arrive ; and expedcd from the 
 advice which he had received at jMobile before 
 we fet off from thence, that this company mufl 
 be very near to us, and probably would be up 
 to-morrow, or at leaft in two or three days : and 
 this man condtfcended fo far as to moderate a 
 )iittlc his mode of travelling, th.u I might have a 
 
 char^ce 
 
44® TRAVELS IN 
 
 chance of keeping up with them until the evening 
 or next day ; befides I had the comfort of obferving 
 that the tiaders and pack-horfemen carried them- 
 felves towards me with evident figns of humanity 
 and fficndfiiip, often expieiTmg fentiments of fym- 
 paihy, and faying I muft not be left alone to perifli 
 in the wiliernefs. 
 
 Although my apprehenfions on this occafion 
 were fomewhat tumultuous, lince there was little 
 hope, on the principle of reafon, fhould I be left 
 alone, of efcsping cruel captivity, and perhaps 
 being murdered by the Chaclaws (for the com- 
 pany of traders was my only fecurity, as the 
 fndians never attack the traders on the road, though 
 they be tradirg with nations at enmity with them) 
 yet I had fecret hopes of relief and deliverance, that 
 cheered me, and infpired confidence and peace of 
 mind. 
 
 ,Novv I am come within the atmofphere of the 
 lilicium groves, how reanimating is the fra- 
 grance! every part of this plant above ground 
 poilelTes J^n aromatic fcent, but the large ILillated 
 pcricarpe is the moil fragrant part of it, which 
 continually perfpires an oleagenous fweat, as 
 warm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never faw 
 it grow naturally further North than Lat. 33°, 
 on the Mobile river and its branches, and but 
 one place in Eaft Florida near Lake George, 
 Lat. 28^. 
 
 About the middle of the afternoon, we were 
 joyfully furprifcd at the diftant profpedl of the 
 trading company coming up, and we foon met, 
 fainting each other feveral times with a general 
 Indian whoop, or fhout of friendfliip; then each 
 company came to camp v/ithin a few paces of 
 
 each 
 
NORTH AMERICA. '" 44I 
 
 each other ; and before night I flruck up a bar- 
 gain with them for a handfome flrong young 
 horfe, which coll me about ten pounds flerhng. 
 1 was now conftrained to leave my old Have be- 
 hind, to feed in rich cane paftures, where he was 
 to remain and recruit until the return of his new 
 mafter from Mobile ; from whom I extorted a 
 .promife to ufe him gently, and if poffible, not to 
 make a pack- horfe of him. 
 
 Next morning we decamped, proceeding again 
 on my travels, now alert and cheerful. Croffed a 
 brifk rivulet ripling over a gravelly bed, and 
 winding through aromatic groves of the lUiciuni 
 Floridanum, then gently defcendcd to the high 
 iorefts, leaving Deadman's creek, for at this creek 
 a white man was found dead, fuppofed to have 
 been murdered, from which circumitancc it has its 
 name. 
 
 A few days before we arrived at the Nation, we 
 met a company of emigrants from Georgia ; a 
 man, his wife, a young vi'oman, feveral young 
 children, and three Itout young men, with about 
 a dozen horlcs loaded with their property. They 
 informed us their defign was to fettle on the 
 Alabama, a few miles above the confluence of the 
 lombigbe. 
 
 Being now near the Nation, the chief trader 
 with another of our company fat off a-head for 
 his town, to give notice to the Nation, as lie faid, 
 of his approach with the merchandize, each of 
 rhcm taking the bed horfe they could pick out 
 of the gang, leaving the goods to the condu£t 
 ■ and care ol the young Muflee and myfelf. Karly 
 iu th«2 evening we came to the banks of a large 
 dt-'ep creek, a conlkleiable branch of the Ala- 
 bama : 
 
44'^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 bama : the waters ran furioufly, being over- 
 charged with the floods of rain which had fallen 
 the day before. We difcovered immediately that 
 there was no poffibility of crofhng it by fording ; 
 its depth and rapidity would have fwept our 
 horfes, loads and all, inftantly froni our fight : 
 my companion, after confideration, faid we mufl: 
 make a raft to ferry over our goods, which we 
 immediately fet about, after unloading our horfes 
 and turning them out to range. I undertook to 
 colled dry canes, and rny companion, dry timber 
 or logs and vines to bind them together : having 
 gathered the neceffary materials, and laid them 
 in order on the brinks of the river, ready to work 
 upon, we betook ourfclves to repofe, and early 
 next morning fat about building our raft. This 
 was a novel fcenc to me, and I could not, until 
 finiflied and put to practice, well comprehend 
 how it could pofTibly anfwer the eft'ecl defired. 
 In the firft place we laid, parallel to each other, 
 dry, found trunks of trees, about nine feet in 
 length, and eight or nine inches diameter ; which 
 binding faft together with grape vines and withs, 
 until we had formed this firft floor, about twelve 
 or fourteen feet in length, we then bound the 
 dry canes in bundles, each near as thick as a 
 man's body, with which we formed the upper 
 ilratum, laying them clofe by the fide of each 
 other and binding them faft : after this manner 
 our raft was conftrufted. Then having two 
 ftrong grape vines, each long enough to crofs 
 the river, we faftened one to each end of the 
 raft ; which now being completed, and loading 
 qn as much as it v^^ould fafely carry, the Indian 
 took the end of one of the vines in his mouth, 
 plunged into the river and fwam over with it, and 
 the vine fixed to the other end was committed to 
 
 mv 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 443 
 
 my charge, to fteady the raft and haul it back 
 again after being unloaded. As foon as he had 
 fafe landed and hauled taught his vine, I pufhed 
 ofF the raft, which he drew over as quick as pof- 
 fible, I fteady ing it with my vine : in this man- 
 ner, though with inexprefiible danger of lofmg 
 our eft'efts, we ferried all fafe over. The laft 
 load, with other articles, contained my property, 
 with all my clothes, which I ftripped off, except 
 my breeches, for they contained matters of more 
 value and confequence than all the reft of my pro- 
 perty put together; befides Idid not choofe to ex- 
 pofe myfelf entirely naked to the alligators and 
 ferpents in crofling the flood. Now feeing all the 
 goods fafe over, and the horfes at a landing place 
 on the banks of the liver about fifty yards above, 
 I drove them all in together, when, feeing therii 
 fafe landed, I plunged in after them, and being a 
 tolerable fwimmer, loon reached the oppofite fliore. 
 But my difficulties at this place were not yet at an 
 end, for our horfes all landed juft below the mouth 
 of a confiderable branch of this river, of fifteen 
 or twenty feet width, and its perpendicular banks 
 almoft as many feet in height above its fwift wa- 
 ters, over which we were obliged to carry every 
 arlicle of our effe^LS, and this by no other bridge 
 than a fapling felled acrofs it, which is called a 
 raccoon bridge; and over this my Indian fiiend 
 would trip as quick and light as that quadruped, 
 Avith one hundred weight of leather on his back, 
 when I was fcarcely able to ftiufRe myfelf along 
 over it aftride. At laft having re-packed and fat 
 off again, without any material occurrence inter- 
 vening, m the evening we arrived at the banks 
 of the great Tallnpoofe river, and came to camp 
 uhder (heUer of feme Indian cabins, in expanfive 
 
 fields, 
 
444 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fields, clofe to the river bank, oppofite the town 
 of Savannuca. I.ate in the evening a young white 
 man, in great halle and feeming confufion, joined 
 our camp, who immediately related, that being on 
 his journey from Penfacola, it happened that the 
 very night after we had palled the company of 
 emigrants, he met them and joined their camp in 
 the evening ; when, juft at dark, the Chaftaws 
 furrounded them, plundered their camp, and car- 
 ried all the people off captive, except himfelf, he 
 having the good fortune to efcape with his horfe, 
 though clofely purfued. 
 
 Next niorning very early, though very cold and 
 the furface of the earth as hoary as if covered with 
 a fall of fnow, the trader ftanding on the oppofite 
 ^ore entirely naked, except a breech-cl®ut, and 
 encircled by a company of red men in the like 
 habit, hailed us, and prefently, with canoes, 
 brought us all over with the merchandize, and con- 
 ducted us fafe to the town of MucclafTe, a mile or 
 two diflant. 
 
 The next day was a day of reft and audience : 
 the following was devoted to feafting, and the 
 evening concluded in celebrating the nuptials of 
 the young Muftee with a Creek girl of Muc- 
 clafTe, daughter of the chief and filler to our 
 Ttader's wife. The trader's houfe and (lores 
 formed a-^omplete fquare, after the mode of the 
 habitations of the Mufcogulges, that is, four 
 oblong buildings of equal dimenfions, two op- 
 pofite to each other, encompa fling an area of 
 about a quarter of an acre ; on one fide of this a 
 fence enclofed a yard of near an acre of ground, 
 at one of the farther corners of which a booth or 
 pavilion was formed of green boughs, having 
 two Laurel trees planted in front (Magnolia 
 
 grandi- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 445 
 
 prandiflora). This was the fecret nuptial cham- 
 ber. Dancing, mufic and feading coniinued the 
 forepart ot" the night, and towards morning the 
 happy couple privately withdrew, and continued 
 alone all the next day, no one prefuming to ap- 
 proach the facrcd, mylterious thalame. 
 
 The trader obliged me with his company on a 
 vifit to the Alabama, an Indian town at the con- 
 iiuence of the two fine rivers, the Tallapoofe and 
 Coofau, which here refign their names to the 
 great Alabama, where are to be fecn traces of the 
 ancient French fortrefs, Thoulou'fe ; here are yec 
 lying, half buried in the earth, a few pieces of 
 ordnance, four and fix pounders. I obftrved, in a 
 very thriving condition, two or three very large 
 apple trees, planted here by the French. This is, 
 perhaps, one of the moft eligible fituations for a 
 city in the world ; a level plain between the con- 
 flux of two majeilic river?, which are exactly of 
 equal magnitude in appearance, each navigable for 
 veflels and periauguas at Icafl five hundred miles 
 above it, aitd fpreading their numerous branches 
 over the mofl fertile and delightful regions, many 
 hundred miles before we reach their fources in the 
 Apalachean mountains. 
 
 Stayed all night at Alabama, whcrs we had a 
 grand entertainment at the public fquare, v\ith 
 mufic and dancing, and returned next day to 
 Mucclafie; where being inlornied of a companv 
 of traders about .fetting olT from Tuckabatche for 
 Augulla, I made a vifit to that town to Icncw thf^ 
 truth of it, but on my arrival there they were 
 gone; but being informed of another caravan 
 who w,;rc to Hart from the Ottafib tov.n in (v.-o 
 
 or 
 
44^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 or three weeks time, I returned to MucclalTe in 
 order to prepare for my departure. 
 
 On my arrival, I was not a little furprifed at a 
 tragical revolution in the family of my friend the 
 trader, his (tores fnut up, and guarded by a party 
 of Indians : in a few minutes however, the whole 
 affair was related to me. It appeared that this 
 fon of Adonis, had been detefted in an amorous 
 intrigue, with the wife of a young chief, the day 
 after his arrival : the chief was out on a hunt, 
 but arrived next day ; and upon information of 
 the affair, the fa£t being confirmed, he with his 
 friends and kindred refolved to exaft legal fatis- 
 fadlion, Vvhich in this cafe is cutting off both ears 
 of the delinquent, clofe to the head, which is 
 called cropping. This being determined upon, 
 he took the moll fecret and effedual methods to 
 effect his purpole. About a dozen -young Indian 
 fellows, condudcd by their chief (the injured 
 hufbarid), having provided and armed themi'elves 
 with knotty cudgels of green Hiccory, which they 
 concealed imdcr their mantles, in the dufk of the 
 evening paid a pretended friendly vifit to the trader 
 at his own houfe, when the chief feigning a pri- 
 vate matter of bufniefs, took him afide in the yard ; 
 then wliiilling through his fingers (the fignal pre- 
 concerted) he was inflantly furrounded, knocked 
 down, and then frripped to his ikin, and beaten 
 with their knotty bludgeons ; however he had the 
 fubtilty to feign himfcif fpeechlefs before they 
 really killed him, which he luppofed was their in- 
 tention : when he had now lain for dead, the exe- 
 cutioner drew out his knife with an intention of 
 taking off his cars : this fmall refpite gave hlni 
 time to refleft a little ; when he initanily fprang up, 
 
 ran 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 4^7 
 
 ran ofF, leaped the fence, and had the good fortune 
 to get into a dark fwamp, overgrown with vines 
 and thickets, where he miiaculoufly eluded the 
 earneft refearches of his enemies, and finally made 
 a fafe retreat to the houfe of his father-in-lav/, the 
 chief of the town, throwing himfelf under his 
 protection, who gave liis word that he would do 
 him all the favour that lay in his power. This 
 account I had from his own mouth, for hearing 
 of my return, the next morning after my arrival, 
 he fent a trufty melfenger, by whom I found 
 means of accefs to him. He farther informed me, 
 that there had been a council of the chiefs of the 
 town convened, to deliberate on the alVair, and 
 their final determination was that he mull lofe his 
 ears, or forfeit all his goods, which amounted to 
 upwards of one thoufand pounds Iterling, and even 
 that forfeiture would not fave his ears, unlefs Mr. 
 Golphin interpofed in his behalf; and after all, the 
 injured Indian declares that he will have his life. He 
 entreated me with tears to make vv^hat fpeed I could 
 to Silver BlulT, reprefent his dangerous fituation to 
 Mr. Golphin, and folicit that gentleman's moll 
 fpeedy and elfeclual interference ; which I affured 
 him I would undertake. 
 
 Now having all things prepared for my depar- 
 ture, early in the morning, after taking leave of 
 my dillrefled friend the trader of Mucclalfe, I 
 fat off'; paffed tlirough continued plantations 
 and Indian towns on my way up the Taliapoofe 
 river, being every where treated by the inhabitants 
 with marks of fricndfliip, e\f;n as though I had 
 been their countryman and relation. Called 
 by the way at the beautiful town cf Coolome, 
 
 whevc 
 
448 TRAVELS IN 
 
 where I tarried fome time with Mr. Germany 
 the chief trader of the town, an elderly gentle- 
 man, but aclive, cheerful and very agreeable, who 
 received and treated me with the utmoll civility and 
 friendfliip : his wife is a Creek woman, of a very 
 amiable and worthy chara(^ter and difpofition, in- 
 duffrious, prudent and atVoclionate ; and by her he 
 had feveral children, whom he is defirous to fend 
 to Savanna or Charleilon, for their education, but 
 cannot prevail on his wife to confent to it : this 
 affair atfecls him verv fcnfibly, for he has accumu- 
 hited a pretty fortune by his induiiry and commend- 
 able conduct. 
 
 Leaving Cooiorne, I re-croffed the river at 
 Tuccabache, an ancient and large town ; thence 
 continued up the river, and at evening arrived at 
 Attafie, where I continued near a week, waiting 
 the prepaiations of the traders, with whom I was 
 to join in company to Auguda. 
 
 The next day after my arrival, I was introduced 
 to the ancient chiefs, at the public fquare or 
 areopagiis ; and in the evening, in company with 
 ihe traders, who are numerous in this town, re- 
 paired to the great rotunda, where were jafTembled 
 the greatelL number of ancient venerable chiefs 
 and v;arrit)rs that I had ever beheld : we fpent the 
 evening and greater part of the night together, in 
 drinking Cafline and nnoking Tobacco. The great 
 council houfe or rotunda is appropriated to much 
 the fame purpofe as the public fquare, but more 
 private, and feems pp.rticularly dedicated to poli- 
 tical aif'airs ; women and youtli are never admitted j 
 and I fuppofe it is death for a female to prefume to 
 enter tlie door, or approach within its pale. It is a 
 vail ccnicrd building or circular dome, capable of 
 
 accommo- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 449 
 
 accommodating many hundred people ; conftriuT:- 
 ed and furniihed within, e>:aftly in the fame man- 
 ner as thofe of the Chcrokees aheady defcribed, 
 but much larger than any ! had feen of them : there 
 are people appointed to take care of it, to have iL 
 daily fwept clean, and to provide cancb for fuel, or 
 to give light. 
 
 As their virgils and manner of conducing their 
 vefpers and myllical fire in this rotunda, are ex- 
 tremely fingular, and altogether dilFerent from 
 the cufloms and ufages of any other peoole, I 
 fliall proceed to defcribe them. In the fir(t place, 
 the governor or officer who has the management 
 of this bufmefs, with his fervants attending, or- 
 ders the black drink to be brewed, which is a 
 decoftion or infufion of the leaves and tender 
 fhoots of the Calfme : this is done under an open 
 (lied or pavillion, at twenty or thirty yards dif- 
 tance, diredly oppofite the door of the council- 
 houfe. Next he orders bundles of dry canes to 
 be brought in : thele are previoufly fplit and 
 broken in pieces to about the length of two feet, 
 and then placed obliquely crofl'ways upon one 
 another on the floor, forming a fpiral circle 
 round about the great centre pillar, rifmg to a 
 foot; or eighteen inches in height from the 
 ground ; and this circle fpreading as it proceeds 
 round and ror.nd, often repeated from right to 
 left, every revolution encreafes its diameter, and 
 at length extends to the diflancc of ten or twelve 
 feet from the centre, more or lefs, according to 
 the length of time the aifembly or meeting is to 
 continue. By the time thefe preparations are 
 accompliflied, it is night, and the aifembly have 
 taken their feats in order. The exterior extre- 
 mity or outer end of the fpiral circle takes fire 
 
 G g and 
 
450 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and immediately rifes into a bright flame (but 
 how this is effected I did not plainly apprehend ; 
 I faw no perfon fet fire to it j there might have 
 been fire left on the earth, however I neither faw 
 nor fmelt fire or fmoke until the blaze inftantly 
 afcended upwards), which gradually and flowly 
 creeps round the centre pillar, with the courfe of 
 the fun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords a 
 cheerful, gentle and fufiicient light until the 
 circle is confumed, when the council breaks up. 
 Soon after this illumination takes place, the aged 
 chiefs and warriors are feated on their cabins or 
 fophas on the i\de of the houfe oppofite the 
 door, in three claffes or ranks, rifing a little, one 
 above or behind the other ; and the white peo- 
 ple and red people of confederate towns in the 
 like order on the left hand ; a tranfverfe range 
 of pillars, fupporting a thin clay wall about 
 breafl high, feparating them : the king's cabin 
 or feat is in front ; the next to the back of it the 
 head wairiors ; and the third or lafl accommo- 
 dates the young warriors, &c. The great war 
 chief's feat or place is on the fame cabin with, 
 and immediately to the left hand of the king, 
 and next to the white people ; and to the right 
 hand of the mico or king the rnoft venerable 
 head-men and warriors are feated. The affcmbly 
 being now feated in order, and the houfe illu- 
 minated, two middle aged men, who perform the 
 oflice of flaves or fervants, pro tempore, come in 
 together at the door, each having very large 
 conch fliells full of bhick drink, and advance 
 with flow, uniform and fteady fteps, their eyes or 
 countenances lifted up, hnging very low but 
 fv.eetly ; tbey come within fix or eight paces of 
 the king's and white people's cabins, when they 
 Jtop together, and each relts his fliell on a tripos 
 
 or 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 45' 
 
 I 
 
 or little table, but prefently takes it up a_c;ain, 
 and, bowing very low, advance^ obfequiouilv, 
 crofling or interfe»fling each other about mid- 
 way : he who refled his fhell before the white 
 people now (lands before the king, and the oUier 
 who flopped before the king ftands before the 
 white people ; when each prefents his fiiell, one 
 to the king and the other to the chief of the 
 white people, and as foon as he raifes it to his 
 mouth, the llave utters or fings two notes, each 
 of which continues as long as he has breath ; 
 and as long as thefe notes continue, fo long mufl 
 the perfon drink or at lea(t keep the {hell to his 
 mouth. Thefe two long notes are very folemn, 
 and at once flrike the imagination with a reli- 
 gious awe or homage to the Supreme, founding 
 ibmewhat like a-hoo — ojah and a-lu — vah. Aft(^ 
 this manner the whole affcmbly are treated, as 
 long as the drink and Hght continue to hold out ; 
 and as foon as the drinking begins, tobacco and 
 pipes are brought. The fkin of a wild cat or 
 young tyger Ituft'ed with tobacco is brought, 
 and laid at the king's feet, with the great or royal 
 pipe beautifully adorned ; the Ikin is ufually of 
 the animals of the king's family or tribe, as the 
 wild-cat, otter, bear, ratrle-fnake, ^c. A fkin 
 of tobacco is likewife brought and cad at the 
 feet of the white chief of the town, and from him 
 it pafTes from one to another to fill their pipes 
 from, though each perfon has bcfides his own 
 peculiar fkin of tobacco. The king or chief 
 fmokes firfl in the great pipe a few whiffs, blow- 
 ing it off" ceremonioufly, firfl towards the fun, or 
 as it is gt;nerally fuppofed to the Great Spirit, for 
 it is puffed upwards, next towards the four car- 
 dinal points, then towards the white people in 
 the houfe ; then the great pipe is taken from the 
 
 G g 2 hand 
 
452 TRAVELS IN 
 
 hand of the mico by a flavc, and prefented to the 
 chief white man, and then to the great war chief, 
 whence it circulates through the rank of head men 
 and warriors, then returns to the king. After this 
 each one fills his pipe from his own or his neigh- 
 bour's flvin. 
 
 The great or public fquare generally ^ftands 
 alone, in the centre and higheft part of the 
 town : it confifts of four-fquare or cubical build- 
 ings, or houfes of one flory, uniform, and of the 
 fame dimenfions, lb ficuated as to form an exaft 
 tetragon, enccm'painng an area of half an acre of 
 ground, more or lefs, according to the ftrength 
 or largenefs of the town, or will of the inhabi- 
 tants : there is a paiTage or avenue at each corner 
 of equal width : each building is condrucied of 
 a w'ooden frame fixed ftrongly in the earth, the 
 w-alis filled in, and neatly plaiftcred with clay 
 mortar ; clofe on three fides, that is the back and 
 fvvo ends, except within about two feet of the 
 wall plate or eves, which is left open for the pur- 
 pofe of a window and to admit a free pafTage of 
 the air ; the front or fide next to the area is quite 
 open like a piazza. One of tbefe buildings is 
 properly ' the council houfe, where the mico, 
 chiefs, and warriors, with the citizens who have 
 bufinefs, or choofe to repair thither, alfemble 
 every day in council, to hear, decide and redify 
 all grievances, complaints and contentions, arif- 
 ing betwixt the cilizens ; give audience to am- 
 baifadors, and fh-angers ; hear news and talks 
 from confederate towns, allies or difiant nations j 
 confult about the particular affairs of the town, 
 as creeling habitations for new citizens, or efla- 
 bliflnn,:^ young families, concernmg agriculture, 
 kc. This building is fomev/Iiat different from 
 
 the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 453 
 
 the Other three : it is clofely fliut up on three 
 fides, that is, the back and two ends, and 
 befides, a partition wall longitudinally from end 
 to end divides it into two apartments, the back 
 part totally dark, only three fmall arched aper- 
 tures or holes . opening into it from the front 
 apartment or piazza, and little larger than juft to 
 admit a man to crawl in upon his hands and 
 knees. This fecluded place appears to mc to be 
 defigned as a fancluary * dedicated to religion, 
 or nther pricil craft; for here are depofited all 
 the facred things, as the phyfic pot, rattles, chap- 
 lets of deer's fioofs and other apparatus of con- 
 juration ; and likcv^-ife the calumet or great pip-n 
 of peace, the imperial llandard, or eagle's tail, 
 which is made of the feathers of the white eagle's 
 tail I curiouily formed and difplayed like an 
 open fan on a iceptrc or flaff, as white and clean 
 as pofTible when difplayed for peace, but when 
 for war, the feathers are painted or tinged with 
 Vermillion. The piazza or front of this building, 
 is equally divided into three apartments, by two 
 iranfvcrfe walls or partitions, about breaft high, 
 each having three orders or ranges of feats or ca- 
 bins Pepping, one above and behind the other, 
 which accommcdatc the fenate and audience, in 
 the like order as obfervcd in the rotunda. The 
 other three buildings which compofe the fqiiare, 
 are alike furnifiied Y»irh three ranges of cabins or 
 fophas, and ferve for a banqueting-houfe, to 
 ilieller and accommodate the audience and fpec- 
 tiitcrs at all times, particularly at feails or public 
 entertainments, where all clalTes of citizens refort 
 
 * Saiidorium or facred temple; a:icl it is fdi.\ t; ht cfcath for any rt-i-- 
 fon bur the niico, wiir-chiof and high pricft to cr.tcr in, and none arc ad- 
 mitted but by pcrmiflicn of the priefts, who jjuurd it day and night. 
 + Vultur fi'.cra. 
 
 day 
 
454 TRAVELS IN 
 
 day and night in the fummcr or moderate feafon ; 
 the children and females however are feldoni or 
 never feen in the public fquare. 
 
 The pillars and walls of the houfes of the 
 fquare are decorated with various paintings and 
 fculptures ; which I fuppofe to be hieroglyphic, 
 and as an hiftoric legendary of political and fa- 
 cerdotal affairs : but they are extremely piclu- 
 refque or caricature, as men in variety of atti- 
 tudes, fome ludicrous enough, others having the 
 head of fome kind of animal, as thofe of a duck, 
 turkey, bear, fox, wolf, buck, kc. and again 
 thofe kind of creatures are reprefented having 
 the human head. Thefe dcfigns are not ill exe- 
 cuted ; the outlines bold, free and w-ell propor- 
 tioned. The pillars fuppcrting the front or piazza 
 of the council-houfe of the fquare. are ingeni- 
 cufly formed in the likencfs of vaft fpeckled fer- 
 pents, afcending upwards ; the Ottaffes being of 
 the fnake family or tribe. At this time the tovvn 
 was falling, taking medicine, and I think I may 
 fay praying, to avert a grievous calamity of fick- 
 ncfs, which had lately afflicted them, and laid in 
 the grave abundance of their citizens. They fafi 
 feven or eight days, during which time they eat 
 or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made of a 
 little corn-flour and w-atcr ; taking at the fame time 
 by way of medicine or phyfic, a flrong decoclion ol 
 the roots of the Iris vcrficclor, which is a powerful 
 carthartic : they hold this root in high eflimation, 
 every town cultivates a little plantation of it, having 
 a large artificial pond, juft without the town, 
 planted and almofl overgrow'n with it, where they 
 yfually dig clay for pottery, and mortar and plafter 
 for their buildings, and I obferved where they had 
 lately been digging up this rcot. 
 
 In 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 455 
 
 In the midil of a large oblong fquare adjoin- 
 ing this town (which was furrounded with a low 
 bank or terrace) is (landing a high pillar, round 
 like a pin or needle ; it is about forty feet in 
 height, and between two and three feet in dia- 
 meter at the earth, gradually tapering upwards 
 to a point ; it is one piece of pine wood, and 
 arifes from the centre of a low, circular, artificial 
 hill, but it leans a httle to one fide. 1 inquired 
 of the Indians and traders what it was defigned 
 for, who anfwered they knew not : the Indians 
 faid that their anceftors found it in the fame 
 fituation, when they firll arrived and ponTeiTed 
 the country, adding, that the red men or Indians, 
 then the pollellbrs, whom they vanquilhcd, were 
 rs ignorant as themfelves concerning it, faying 
 that their anceftors likewife found it (landing fo. 
 This monument, fimple as it is, may be worthy 
 the obfervations of a traveller, llnce it naturally 
 excites at leaft the following queries : for what 
 purpofe was it defigned ? its great antliuity and 
 incorruptibility — v^^hat method or machines they 
 employed to bring it to the fpot, and how they 
 raifed it erecl ? There is no tree or fpccies of the 
 pine, whofe wood, i. e. i^o large a portion of the 
 trunk, is fuppofcd to be incorruptible, expofed 
 in the open air to all weathers, but the long- 
 leaved Pine (Pin paluftris), and there is none 
 growing within twelve or fifteen miles of this 
 place, that tree being naturally produced only 
 on the high, dry, barren ridges, where there is 
 a fandy foil and graify wet favannas. A great 
 number of men uniting their (Irength, prgbably 
 carried it to the place on handfpikes, or feme fuch 
 contrivance. 
 
 On the Sabbath day before I fet off from this 
 place, 1 could not help obfcrving the folemnity 
 
 of 
 
45^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 of the town, the filence and the retirednefs of the 
 red inhabitants ; but a very few of them were to be 
 fecn, the doors of their dweUings fliut, and if a child 
 chanced to ilray out, it was quickly drawn in doors 
 again. I afked the meaning of this, and was imme- 
 diately anfwered, that it being the white people's 
 beloved day or Sabbath, the Indians kept it religi- 
 oufly facred to the Great fpirit. 
 
 Lafb night was clear and cold, wind North 
 Weft, and this nioming,, January 2d, 1788, the 
 face of the earth wa^ perfedlly white with a 
 beautiful fparkling froft. Sat off for Augufta 
 with a company of traders, four men with about 
 thirty horfes, twenty of which ^^'ere loaded with 
 leather and furs, each pack or load fuppofed to 
 weigh one hundred and fifty pounds upon an 
 average. In three days we arrived at the Apa- 
 lachuda or Chata Uche river ; croffed at the point 
 towns Chehaw and Ufleta : thefc towns almoft 
 join each other, yet fpeak two languages, as ra- 
 dically different perhaps as the Mufcogulge's and 
 Chinefe. After leaving the river we met with 
 nothing material, or worth particular obferva- 
 tion, until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards 
 evening, where we encamped in expanfive ancient 
 Indian fields, in view of the foaming flood of the 
 river, now raging over its banks. Here were two 
 companies of traders from Augufta, bound to the 
 Nation, confifting of fifteen or twenty men, with 
 feventy or eighty horfes, m.oft of which had their 
 loads of merchandize : they crolfed the river this 
 morning and loft fix horfes in the attempt j they 
 were drowned, being entangled in the vines un- 
 der water at landing. But the river now falling 
 ^'^ain, we were in hopes that 'by ne^t morning 
 
 th? 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 457 
 
 the waters would be again confined within the 
 banks. We immediately fat about rigging our port- 
 able leather boat, about eight feet long, which was 
 of thick foal leather, folded up and carried on the 
 top of a pack of deer-ikins. The people foon got 
 her rigged, which was cfFeifted after the following 
 manner. We, in the firfh place, cut down a White- 
 Oak fapling, and by notching this at each end, 
 bent it up, which formed the keel. Item and ftern 
 pofl: of one piece ; this was placed in the bottom of 
 the boat, and pretty flrong hoop-poles being fixed 
 in the bottom iicrofs the keel, turning up their ends, 
 expanded the hull of the boat, which being faft- 
 encd by thongs to two other poles bent round, the 
 outlide of the rim formed the gunwhales : thus in 
 an hour's time cur bark was rigged, to which 
 afterwards we added two little oars or fculls. Our 
 boat being now in readinefs, and our horfes turned 
 out to paflure, each one rerired to repofe, or to 
 fuch exercife as mod effectually contributed to di- 
 vert the miud. I was at this time rather dejefted, 
 and fought comfort in retirement, turning my 
 courfe to the expanfive fields, fragrant groves and 
 fublime forefls. Returned to camp by dufk, v.here 
 I found my companions cheerful and thoughtlefs 
 rather to an extreme. It was a calm dill evening 
 and warm ; the wood-cock (fcolopax) chirruping 
 high up in the air, gently defcends by a fpiral cir- 
 cular tract, and alights on the humid plain : this 
 bird appears in Pennfylvania early in the fprino-, 
 when the Elm and Maple begin to rlower ; and 
 here the fcarlct Maple, Elm and Elder began to 
 fliow their flowers ; the yellow jafmin was jufl: 
 ready to open its fragrant golden blofibms, and the 
 gay Azalea alfo preparing toexpand its beauties. 
 
 The 
 
45^ ^TRAVELS IN 
 
 The morning cool and pleafant : after recon- 
 noitering the fhorcs of the rivers, and confulting 
 with our brethren in didrefs, uho had not yet 
 decamped, relolving to (lay and lend their a/lifl:- 
 ance in pafling over tiiis rapid gnlph, we w^ere 
 encouraged to proceed ; and launching our bark 
 into the raging flood, after many fuccefsful trips 
 ferried over all the goods, then drove in our horfes 
 altogether, and had the pleafure of feeing them all 
 fafely landed on the oppofite fliore ; and laftly I 
 embarked with three of our people, and feveral 
 packs of leather ; we then put off from fliore, bid- 
 ding adieu to our generous friends left behind, 
 who re-echoed our fhouts upon our fafe landing. 
 We proceeded again, crofl'ed the Oconne in the 
 fame manner, and with the like fuccefs, and came 
 to camp in the fertile fields, on the banks of that 
 beautiful river ; and proceeding thence next day, 
 in the evening came to camp on the waters of great 
 Ogeche. The following day, after croffing feveral 
 of its confiderable branches, came to camp; and 
 next day crolTed the main branch ot that famous 
 river, W'hich being wide and very rapid proved dif- 
 ficuh and dangerous fording ; yet we croflTed with- 
 out any lofs, but fome of our pack-horfes were 
 badly bruifed, being fwept olf their feet and dafhed 
 ?gainfl the rocks, my horfe too being carried away 
 with the current, and plunging off funken flielving 
 rocks into deep holes, I got very wet, but I kept 
 my feat and landed fafe : however I fuffered much, 
 it being a cold freezing day. We came to camp 
 early, and raifing great fires with Pine knots and 
 other wood, we dried ourfelves and kept warm 
 during the long night, and after two days more 
 hard travelling we arrived at Augufla. 
 
 Being 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 459' 
 
 Belng under a necefiity of makintj; two or three 
 days flay here, in order to refit ir.yfclf, for by ihis 
 time my flock of cloaths was emircly worn out, I 
 took this opportunity of vifiting my fiiend doctor 
 Wells at his plantations near the city. And now 
 being again new clothed and furniflicd with a toler- 
 able Indian poney, 1 took leave of my hoil and pre- 
 pared to depart for Savanna. 
 
 Soon after I left Augufla, proceeding for Sa- 
 vanna, the capital, a gentleman overtook me on 
 the road, who was a native of Ireland, and had 
 lately arrived in this part of America with a view 
 of fettling a plantation in Georgia, particularly 
 for the culture of thofe very ufeful fruits and ve- 
 getables that are cultivated up the Mediterranean, 
 and which fo largely contribute towards fupport- 
 ing that lucrative branch of commerce, the Le- 
 vant trade, viz. Vitis vinifera, for wine, Vitis 
 Corinthiaca, for Currants, Vitis Allobrogica, for 
 Raifms, OUves, Figs, Morus, for feeding filk- 
 worms, Amygdalus communis, Piiiachia, Cap- 
 paris. Citrus aurantium. Citrus limon. Citrus 
 verrucofa, the great fvvect fcented Citron, &;c. 
 He was very ingenious, defirous of information, 
 and as liberal and free of communicating his own 
 acquifitions and difcoveries in ufeful fcience, and 
 confequently a very agreeable companion. On 
 our journey down wc flopped a while to refl and 
 refrelh ouifelves at the Great Springs, near the 
 road, on our left hand, about midway between 
 Augufla and Savanna. This amazing fountain 
 of tranfpareiit cool water, breaks fuddenly out of 
 the earth, at the bafis of a moderately elevated 
 hill or bank, forming at once a bafon near twenty 
 yards over, afcending through a horizontal bed 
 of foft rocks, of a heterogeneous compofition, 
 
 chiefly 
 
460 TRAVELS IN 
 
 chiefly a teftaceous concretion of broken, entire 
 and pulverifed fea fhells, fand, &c. conftituting 
 a coarfe kind of lime-flone. The ebullition is 
 copious, active and continual, over the ragged 
 apertures in the rocks, which lie fevcn or eight 
 feec below, fuelling the furface confiderably im- 
 mediately above it. The waters defcend iwiftly 
 from the fountain, forming at once a large brook, 
 fix or eight yards over, and five or fix feet deep. 
 There are multitudes of fiflr in the fountain, of 
 various tribes, chiefly the feveral fpecies of 
 bream, trout, cat-fifh and garr : it was amufmg to 
 behold the fifli continually afcending and defcend- 
 ing through the rocky apertures. Obferved that 
 we croli'ed no flream or brook of water within 
 twelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but had in 
 view vaft favannas, fwamps and Cane meadows, at 
 no p^rcat diftance from our road, on our right hand, 
 which we may prefume were the refources or refer- 
 voirs which contributed to the fupplies of this de- 
 lightful grotto. Here were growing on the afcents 
 from the fountain, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurus 
 Borbonia, Quercus fempervirens, Callicarpa ; at a. 
 little diftance, a grove of the CaiTme ; and in an 
 old field, jnd by, are to be feen fome fmall Indian 
 mounts. We travelled feveral miles over ridges of 
 low^ fwelllng hills, whofe furfaces v/ere covered wjth 
 particoloured pebbles, ftreaked and clouded with 
 red, white, brown and yellow : they were moftly 
 broken or fliivered to pieces, I believe by the 
 ancients In forming arrcv/ heads, darts, knives, 
 &'c. for I obferved frequently fome of thefe mis-, 
 lliapcn implements amongft them, fome broken and 
 others fpoiled in the making. Thefe ftones feemed 
 to be a fpecies of jafper or agate. 
 
 On 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 461 
 
 On my way down I alfo called at Silver Bluff, 
 and waited on the honourable G. Golphin, Efq. 
 to acknowledge my obligations to him, and like- 
 wife to fulfd my engagements on the part of Mr. 
 
 T y, trader of Mucclafle. Pvlr. Golphin af- 
 
 fured me that he was in a difagreeable predicament, 
 and that he feared the word, but faid he would do 
 all in his power to fave him. 
 
 After five days pleafant travelling we arrived at 
 Savanna in good health. 
 
 Lift of the towns and tribes In league, and 
 which conftitute the powerful confederacy or em- 
 pire of the Creeks or Mufcogulges. 
 
 Towns on the Taliapoofe or Oakfufke river, viz. 
 Oakfuflic, upper. 
 Oakfufkc, lower. 
 Ufale, upper. 
 Ufale, lower. 
 Sokafpogc. 
 Tallafe, great. 
 Coolome. 
 Ghuaciahatchc.^ 
 Otaffc. 
 Cliiale. 
 Fufahatche. 
 Tuccabatche. 
 Cunhutke. 
 Mucclafle. 
 Alabama. 
 Savannuca. 
 VVhittumkc. 
 Coofauda. 
 
 Thefe fpeak the Mufco- 
 >gulge or Creek tongue, call- 
 ed the Alothcr tongue. 
 
 Speak the Stincard tongue. 
 
 Speak the Uche tongue. 
 ? Speak the Stincard tongue. 
 
 Towns on the CooCiu river, viz. 
 Abacoochc. Speaks a diale6t of Chicafaw. 
 
 PocontallahafTe. ^ r t .u at r i 
 
 Hiccory ground, (traders > \^^^^^^ = => 
 
 name). ) ^ 
 
 Natche. Speaks Mufcog. and Chicafaw. 
 
 Towns 
 
.\6: 
 
 TRAVELS IN- 
 
 Towns on the branches of the Coofau liver, vi/.. 
 
 Wiccakaw. 
 
 Fillj^pond, traders name. ^ g^^^j^ ^^^ Mufcogulge 
 
 ir- r ^' \ tongue. 
 
 Towns on the Apalachucia or Chata Uche river, viz. 
 Apalachucla. 
 Tucpaufka. 
 Chockeclucca. 
 Chata Uche. 
 Checlucca-ninne. 
 Hothletega. 
 Coweta. 
 UlTeta. 
 Uche. 
 Hoofeche. 
 Chehaw. 
 Echeta. 
 Occonne. 
 Svvaglaw, great. 
 Swaglaw, little. 
 
 Towns on Flint 
 
 I 
 
 I Speaking the Mufcogulge 
 j tongue. 
 
 I 
 
 J 
 
 Speaks the Savannuca tongue. 
 Speaks the Mufcog. tongue. 
 
 1 
 
 b>Speak the Stincard. 
 
 liver, comprehending the Siminolcs or 
 Lower Creeks. 
 Suola-nocha. 
 Cufcowilla or Allachua. 
 Talahafochte. 
 Caioofahatche. 
 — — Great ifland. Traders name. 
 
 Great hammock. Traders name. 
 
 Capon. Traders name. 
 
 St, Mark's. Traders name. 
 
 — —Forks. Traders name. 
 
 With many others of lefs note. 
 
 The Simlnoles fpeak both the Mufcogulge and 
 Stincard tongues. 
 
 In all fifty-five towns, befides many villages 
 not enumerated ; and reckoning two hundred 
 inhabitants to each town on an average, which 
 
 ia 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4CJ 
 
 is a moderate computation, would ^ive eleven 
 thoufand inhabitants. 
 
 It appears to me pretty clearly, from clivers 
 circumllanccs, that this powerful empirt: or con- 
 federacy of the Creeks or Mufcogulges, arofe 
 from, and eflablilhed itfelf upon, ihe luius of 
 that of the Natches, agreeably to monficur Du- 
 prat. According to the Mufcogulges account of 
 themfelvcs, they arrived from the South-Weft, 
 beyond the Millifiippi, fome time before the Eng- 
 iiih fettled the colony of Carolina, and built Char- 
 left on ; and their ftory concerning :heir country 
 and people, from whence they fprang-, the caule of 
 leaving their native land, the progrels of their mi- 
 gration, 5:c. is very limilar to that celebrated 
 hiftorian's account of the Natches. They might 
 have been included as allies and confederates in that 
 vaft and powerful empire of red men. The Muf- 
 cogulges gradually pu(hing and extending their fet- 
 tlements on their North-Eafl border, until the dif- 
 folution of the Natches empire ; being then the 
 moft numerous, warlike and powerful tribe, they 
 began to fubj agate the various tribes or bands 
 which formerly conftituted the Natches, and unit- 
 ing them with themfelvcs, formed a new confede- 
 racy under the name of the jNIufcogulges. 
 
 The IMufcogulge tongue is now the national or 
 fovereign language : thofe of the Chicafaws, Chac- 
 taws, and even the remains of the Narches, if we 
 are to credit the Creeks and traders, being dialects 
 of the Mufcogulge : and probably, when the 
 Natches were fovereigns, they called their own the 
 national tongue, and the Crseks, Chicafaws, &c. 
 only dialects of theirs. It is uncertain which is 
 reallv them other tongue. 
 
 As 
 
4^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 As for tliofe numerous remnant bands or tribes, 
 included at this day within the Mufcogulge confe- 
 deracy, who generally fpeak the Stincard language, 
 (which is radically different from the Mufcogulge) 
 they are, beyond a doubt, the fhattered remains of 
 the various nations who inhabited the lower or ma- 
 ritime parts of Carolina and Florida, from Cape 
 Fear, Weft to the Miffiffippi. The language of 
 the Uches and Savannucas is a third radically dif- 
 ferent from the Mufcogulge and Stincard, and feems 
 to be a more Northern tongue ; I fuppofe a lan- 
 guage that prevailed amongfl: the numerous tribes 
 who formerly poffefled and inhabited the maritime 
 parts of Maryland and Virginia. I was told by an 
 old trader that the Savannucas and Shawanefe fpeak 
 the fame language, or very near alike. 
 
 CPIAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 46^ 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 After my return from the Creek nation, 1 em- 
 ployed myfelf during the fprlng and fore part of 
 fummer, in rcviliting the feveral diftrids in Geor- 
 gia and the Eall borders of Florida, where I had 
 noted the mod- curious fubjetSIs ; colleding them 
 together, and Hiipping them off to England. In 
 the courfc of thefe excurfions and refearches, I had 
 the opportunity of obferving the new flowering 
 flirub, refembling the Gordonia*, in perfe*^: bloom 
 as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a flowering tree, 
 of the fir(t order for beauty and fragrance of blof- 
 foms : the tree grows fifteen or twenty feet high, 
 branching alternately ; the leaves are oblong, 
 broadefh towards their extremities, and terminate 
 with an acute point, which is generally a Uttle re- 
 flexed J they are lightly ferrated, attenuate down- 
 wards, and fcflile, or have very fhort petioles ; they 
 are placed in alternate order, and towards the extre- 
 mities of the twigs are crouded together, but (land 
 more fparfedly below ; the flovvers are very large, 
 expand themlelves perfedly, are of a fnow white 
 colour, and ornamented with a crown or taflfel of 
 gold coloured refulgent fl:amina: in their centre, the 
 inferior petal or fegment of the corolla is hollow, 
 formed like a cap or helmet, and entirely includes 
 the other four, until the moment of expanfion ; its 
 exterior furface is covered with a Ihort filky hair ; 
 the borders of the petals are crifped or plicated : 
 
 * On firft obferving the fniAification and habit of this tree, I was in- 
 c'lifcd to believe it a fpecics of tJorJonia ; but afterwards, upon ftri<5ler 
 examination, and comparing its flowers and fruit with thofe of the Gordo- 
 nia lafianthus, I prefently found llriking charaderiftics abundantly fuffici- 
 em to feparatc it from that ginus, and to eftablilh it the head of a new 
 tribe, which we have honoured with the name of the illulhious Dr. Ben- 
 jamin Franklin. 
 
 Franklinca Alatamaha. 
 
 H h thefe 
 
466 TRAVELS IN 
 
 thefe large, white flowers fland fingle and feflile In 
 the bofom of the leaves, and being near together to- 
 wards the extremities of the twigs, and ufually 
 many expanded at the fame time, make a gay ap- 
 pearance : the fruit is a large, round, dry, woody 
 apple or pericarp, opening at each end oppofitely by 
 five alternate fiflures, containing ten cells, each re- 
 plete with dry woody cuneiform feed. This very 
 curious tree was firft taken notice of about ten or 
 twelve years ago, at this place, when I attended my 
 father (John Bartram) on a botanical excurfion ; 
 but, it being then late in the autumn, we could 
 form no opinion to what clafs or tribe it belonged. 
 
 We never faw It grow In any other place, nor 
 have I ever fmce feen it growing wild, in all my 
 travels, from Pennfylvania to Point Coupe, on the 
 banks of the Miffiflippi, which muft be allowed a 
 very fmgular and unaccountable circumftance ; at 
 this place there are two or three acres of ground 
 where it grows plentifully. 
 
 The other new, fmgular and beautiful fhrub*, 
 now here in full bloom, I never faw grow but at 
 two other places in all my travels, and there very 
 fparingly, except in Eaft Florida, in the neighbour- 
 hood of the fea-coaft. 
 
 * I gave it the n%me of Bignonia bradeatc, extempore* 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 467 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Having now completed my collections in Geor- 
 gia, I took leave of thcfe Southern regions, pro- 
 ceeding on my return to Charlefton. Left Savanna 
 in the evening, in confcquence of a prcffing invita- 
 tion from the honourable Jonathan Bryan, Efq. who 
 was returning from the capital, to his villa, about 
 eight miles up Savanna river ; a very delightful fitu- 
 ation, where are fpacious gardens, furnifhed with 
 a variety of fruit trees and flowering fhrubs. Ob- 
 ferved in a low wet place at the corner of the gar- 
 den, the Ado (Arum efculentum) ; this plant is 
 much cultivated in the maritime parts of Georgia 
 and Florida, for the fake of its large Turnip-like 
 root, which when boiled or roafted, is excellent 
 food, and taftes like the Yam ; the leaves of this 
 magnificent plant are very large, and of a beautiful 
 green colour, the fpatha large and circulated, the 
 fpadix terminates with a very long fubulated tongue, 
 naked and perfedly white : perhaps this may be the 
 Arum Colocafia. They have likewife another fpe- 
 cies of the efculent Arum, called Tannier, which 
 is a large and beautiful plant, and much cultivated 
 and elleemed for food, particularly by the Negroes. 
 
 At night, foon after our arrival, feveral of his 
 fervants came home with horfe loads of wild pi- 
 geons (Columba migratoria), which it feems they 
 had colleded in a lliort fpace of time at a neigh- 
 bouring Bay fwamp : they take them by torch 
 light : the birds have particular roofting places, 
 where they aflbciate in incredible multitudes at 
 evening, on low trees and bufhes, in hommocks 
 or higher knolls in the interior parts of vaft 
 H h 2 fwamps. 
 
46? Travels in 
 
 fvvamps. Many people go out together on thi^ 
 kind of fport, when dark ; feme take with theiu 
 little fafcines of fat Pine fpHnters for torches ; 
 others facks or bags ; and others furnifli themfelves 
 with poles or (laves : thus accoutered and prepared, 
 they approach the roofts ; the fudden blaze of light 
 confounds, blinds and affrights the birds, whsreby 
 muliitudes drop off the limbs to the ground, and 
 others are beaten off with the Itaves, being by the 
 fudden confternation, entirely helpkfs, and eafily 
 t3.ken and put into the facks. It is chiefly the 
 fweet fmall acorns of the Quercus phillos, Qiiercus 
 aquatica, Querv:us fempervirens, Quercus flam- 
 mula, and others, v/hich induce thefe birds to mi- 
 grate in the autumn to thofe Southern regions ; 
 where they fpend their days agreeably, and feafl 
 hixurioully, during the rigour of the colds in the 
 North, whither they return at the approach of fum- 
 mer to breed. 
 
 Sat off next day, and croffed the river at Zubley's 
 ferry, about fifty miles above Savanna, and in three 
 days after arrived at Charlefton. 
 
 Obferved, by the way near Jackfonfburg, Pon- 
 pon, After fruticofus, growing plentifully in good 
 moid ground, ufually by the banks of canals. It is 
 a moft charming autumnal flowering fhrub ; it will 
 life to the height of eight or ten feet, when fupport- 
 ed by neighbouring trees. 
 
 After a few days refidence in Charlefton, I fat 
 oft' on my return to my native land ; croffed Cow- 
 per river, about nine miles above the city, where 
 the water was a mile wide, and the ferry-houfc 
 beine; on the oppofite ftiore, I hoifted my travel- 
 ling blanket on a pole for a fignal, which being 
 white, the people fooa came to me and carried 
 
 me 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 469 
 
 nie fafe oA-er. In three days more eafy travelling, 
 I croHed Winyaw bay, jult below George town ; 
 and in two days more, got to the Weft end of 
 Long bay, where 1 lodged at a large Indigo planta- 
 tion. Sat oiF early next morning, and after croiling 
 over the fand ridges, which aflbrd little elfe but 
 Quercus pumila, Myrica cerifcra, Calline, Side- 
 roxylon and Andromeda entangled with various fpe- 
 cies of Smilax, got on the bay, which is a hard 
 fand beach, expoied for the diltancc of fifteen miles 
 to the continual lafli of the Atlantic ocean. At 
 about low water mark, are cliffs of rocks of the 
 helmintholitus, being a very firm concrete or petri- 
 faftion, confining of various kinds of feafhells, 
 fine fand and pulverized fhells : there is a reef of 
 thefe rocks, thirty or forty yards farther out than 
 low water mark, which lift their rugged backs 
 ^bove water, and brave the continual ftrokes of the 
 waves, which, however, afTifled by the conflant 
 fridion of the fands, make continual inroads upon 
 them, and bore them into holes and cavities, when 
 tempefluous feas rend them to pieces, fcattering the 
 fragments over the fandy fliore. It is pleafant riding 
 on this clean hard fand, paved with fhells of various 
 colours. 
 
 Obferved a number of perfons coming up a 
 head, whom I foon perceived to be a parry of 
 Negroes. I had every reafon to dread the confe 
 quence ; for this being a defolate place, I was by 
 this time feveral miles from any houfe or planta- 
 tion, and had reafon to apprehend this to be a 
 jrrcdatory band of Negroes ; people being fi e- 
 qucntly attacked, robbed, and fomeiimes niur- 
 deied by tliem at this place. I was unarmed, 
 aloae, and my horfe tired ; thus fituatcd every 
 way in their power, I had no alternative but to 
 
 be 
 
47© TRAVELS IN 
 
 be refigned and prepare to meet them. As foon 
 as I faw them diftinclly a mile or two off, I im- 
 mediately ahghted to reft, and give breath to my 
 horfe, intending to attempt my fafety by flight, 
 if upon near approach they (hould betray hoftile 
 defigns. Thus prepared, when we drew near to 
 each other, I mounted and rode brilkly up ; and 
 though armed with clubs, axes and hoes, they 
 opened to right and left, and let me pafs peace- 
 ably. I'heir chief informed me whom they be- 
 longed to, and faid they were going to man a new 
 quarter at the Weft end of the bay ; I however 
 kept a ftiarp eye about me, apprehending that 
 this might poflibly have been an advanced divi- 
 fion, and their intentions were to ambufcade and 
 furround me ; but they kept on quietly, and I 
 was no more alarmed by them. After noon, I 
 croffed the fwafli at the eaft end of the bay, and 
 in the evening got to good quarters. Next morn- 
 ing early I fat off again, and foon cro0ed Little 
 River at the boundary ; which is on the line that 
 feparates North and South Carolina: in an old 
 field, on the banks of this river, a httle diftance 
 from the public, houfe, ftands a fingle tree of the 
 Magnolia grandiflora, which is faid to be the 
 moll northern fettlement of that tree. Paffed this 
 day over expanfive favannas, charmingly deco- 
 rated with late autumnal flowers, as Helianthus, 
 Rudbeckia, Silphium, Solidago, Helenium, Ser- 
 ratula, Cacalia, After, Lilium Martagon, Qen- 
 tiana, caerulea, Chironia, Gentiana faponaria, 
 Afclepias coccinea, Hypericum, Rhexia pul- 
 cherrima, &c. &c. 
 
 Obferved likewife in thefe Savannas abundance 
 of the ludicrous Dionsea mufcipula (Dionaea, 
 JlUis epis. ad Linnssum, miraculum naturae, folia 
 
 biloba. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4.7I 
 
 biloba, radlcalia, ciliata, conduplicanda, fenfibilia^ 
 infeda incarceranria. Syft. vegetab. p. t,t,s)' 
 
 This wonderful plant feems to be diftinguiflied in 
 the creation, by the Author of nature, with facul- 
 ties eminently fuperior to every other vegetable pro- 
 du6tion* ; fpecimens of it were firfl: communicated 
 to the curious of the old world by John Bartram, the 
 American botaniil and traveller, who contributed 
 as much, if not more, than any other man towards 
 enriching the North American botanical nomencla- 
 ture, as well as its natural hillory. 
 
 After traverfing thefe ample favannas, I grada- 
 ally afcended fand hills to open Pine forells ; at 
 evening got to Old town near Brunfwick, where I 
 lodged. Brunfwick is a fea-port town on the Cla- 
 rendon or Cape Fear river, about thirty miles 
 above the capes ; it is about thirty years fince this 
 was the feat of government, when Arthur Dobbs, 
 Efq. was governor and commander in chief of the 
 province of North Carolina. Continued up the 
 Weft fide of North Weft of Cape Fear river, and 
 refted two or three days at the feat of F. Lucas, 
 Efq. a few miles above Livingfton's creek, a con- 
 fiderable branch of the North Weft. This creek 
 heads in vaft fwamps, in the vicinity of the beau- 
 tiful lake Wakamavv, which is the fource of a fine 
 river of that name, and runs a South courfe feventy 
 or eighty miles, delivering irs waters into \Vinyaw 
 bay at George-town. The Wakamaw lake is twen- 
 ty fix miles in circuit ; the lands on its Eaftern 
 fhores are fertile, and the fituation delightful, 
 gradually afcending from pleafing eminences ; 
 bounded on the North- Weft coaft by vaft rich 
 fvvamps, fit for the production of Rice : the lake 
 
 • See fomeacccuDt of it in the intrcJudioD. 
 
 is 
 
472 TRAVELS IN 
 
 is twelve miles Weft from Moore's Efq. whofe 
 
 villa is on the banks of the North Weft. 
 
 Proceeding again up the North Weft, crofted 
 Carver's creek, and ftopped at Aftiwood, the an- 
 cient feat of Colonel William Bartram. The houfe 
 ftands en the high banks of the river, near feventy 
 feet in height above the furface of the water ; this 
 high bluft" continues two or three miles on the ri- 
 ver, and commands a magnificent profpe6t of the 
 low lands oppofite, when in their native ft ate, 
 prefentiijg to the view grand forefts and expan- 
 five Cane meadows : the trees which compofe 
 thefe forefts are generally of the following tribes, 
 Quercus tinctoria, Querc. alba, C^.erc. phillos, 
 <^erc. aquatica, Querc. hemifpherica, Fraxinus 
 excelfior, Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron 
 tulipifcra, Liquidambar ftyraciliua, Ulmus, Ti- 
 Ha, Juglans hiccory, Juglans cinerea, Juglans 
 nigra, Morus rubra, Gleditfia tiiacanthus, Ho- 
 pea tindloria, Nyffa aquatica, Nyna f;/lvatica, 
 Carpinus and many more ; the Cupreftus difticha 
 ?.s ftately and beautiful as I have fcen any where. 
 When thefe lands are cleared of their timber and 
 cultivated, they produce abundantly, particular- 
 ly, Wheat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, with va- 
 rietv of excellent vegetables. This perpendicu- 
 lar bank of the river, by which the waters fwiftly 
 glide along, difcovers at once the A'-arious ftrata 
 of the earth of this lov/ maritime country. For 
 the moft part, the upper ftratum conftfts of- a 
 light, fandv, pale, yellowifti mould or loam, for 
 ten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat level 
 land back from the. rivers, where the cjays or 
 marie approach very near the furface, and the 
 ridges of fand hills, where the clays lie much 
 deeper) ; this fandy mould or loam lico upon a 
 
 dtep 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 473 
 
 deep bed of black or dark flate coloured faline 
 and fulphureous earth, which is compofed of ho- 
 rizontal thin flakes or lamince, feparated by means 
 of very thin, almofl imperceptible veins or ftrata of 
 fine micaceous particles, which drain or percolate a 
 clear water, continually exuding, or trickling 
 down, and forming Uttle rills and diminutive cata- 
 racts, being conducted by perpendicular chinks or 
 fifTures : in fome places, a portion of this clear 
 water or tranfparent vapour, fecms to coagulate on 
 the edges of the veins and (iifures, leaving a reddifh 
 curd or jelly-like fubilimce flicking to them, which 
 I lliould fuppofe indicates it to fpring from a ferru- 
 ginous fource, efpccially fince it difcovers a chaly- 
 beate fcent and tafle : in other places, thefe fifTures 
 fliow evidently a cryflallization of exceeding fine 
 white falts, which have an aluminous or vitriolic 
 fcent : they are pyrites, marcafites, or fulphureous 
 nodules, fhimng like brafs, of various fizes and 
 forms, fome fingle and others conglomerated : 
 other places prefent to view, ftrata of heterogeneous 
 matter, lying between the upper loamy flratum and 
 the bed of black faline earth, confiding of various 
 kinds of fea fhells, fome whole, others broken to 
 pieces, and even pulverized, which fill up the cavi- 
 ties of the entire fliells, and the interflices betwixt 
 them : at other places we obferve, two or three 
 feet below the furfacc or virgin mould, a flratum 
 of four, five, or fix feet in depth, of biownifh 
 marie, on a bed of teflaceous rocks ; a petrifaction 
 compofed apparently of various kinds of fea fliells, 
 belemnites, land, &c. combined or united with a 
 calcareous cement : thefe malfes of rocks are in 
 fome places detached by veins and (Irata of a hete- 
 rogeneous earth, confifling of fea fhells and other 
 marine produdions, as well as tevrcflial, which 
 
 feem 
 
474 TRAVELS IN 
 
 feem to be foJTile, or in fome degree of petrifac- 
 tion, or otherwlfe tranfrauted, particularly thofe 
 curious productions called birds bills, or (harks 
 teeth (dentes carchariae), belemnices, &c. loofely 
 mixed with a deficcated earth compofed of fand, 
 clay, particles of marie, vegetable rubbifli, &c. 
 And again we obferve fhells, marcafites, belemnites, 
 dentes carcharias, with pieces of wood tranfmuted, 
 black and hard as fea coal, fmgly interfperfed in the 
 black vitrioHc flrata of earth : when this black 
 earth is expofed to the fun and dry air, the little 
 thin lamina:; feparate, and foon difcover a fine, 
 white cryftallization, or aluminous powder ; but 
 this very foon difappears, being again incorporated 
 with the general mafs, v/hich gradually diflblves or 
 falls like quick-lime, and appears then a grayifh, 
 extremely fine, dry micaceous powder, which fmells 
 like gun-powder. 
 
 The North Wefl: of Cape Fear, here at Afhwood, 
 is near three hundred yards over (when the flream 
 is low and within its banks), and is eighty or ninety 
 miles above the capes. Obferved growing here- 
 ;^ibouts a great variety of very curious and beautiful 
 flowering and fweet fcented fhrubs, particularly Cal- 
 licarpa, ujlfculus pavia, floribus coccineis, caule 
 fuifruticofo, /Efculus fylvatica, floribus ex albo et 
 carneo elegamer variegatis, caule arboreo, Ptelea 
 trifoliata, Styrax, Stewartia, Fothcrgilla, Amorpha, 
 Myrica, Stillingia fruticofa, foliis lanceolatis, utrin- 
 que glabris, fructu tricocco, Olea Americana, fo- 
 liis lanceolato-ellipticis, baccis atro-purpureis (Pur- 
 ple berried bay), Catefby. Ilex dahoon, Caffine 
 Yapon, Azalea, varieties, ^Calmea, Cyrilla, Liquid- 
 ambar peregrinum, Sideroxylon, Andromeda \u- 
 cid^i> cCC. 
 
 Leavinrr Afliwood, and continuing up the Wefl 
 
 fide 
 
J'c 
 
 W^// /V^// V // .-I///// V V 7/^// /; 
 
1 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 475 
 
 fide of the river, about forty miles, in the banks 
 of a creek, five or fix feet below the fandy furface, 
 are to be feen projecting out many feet in length, 
 trunks of trees petrified to very hard ftone ; they 
 lie between the uj^pcr fandy llratuni and the com- 
 mon bed of blackilh vitriolic earth ; and thefe ftone 
 trees are to be feen in the fame fituation, fticking 
 out of the perpendicular banks or bluffs of the 
 river in this region : there are feveral trunks of 
 large trees with their bark, ftumps of their limbs 
 and roots, lying petrified on the fand hills and Pine 
 forefts, near the road about this creek, not far 
 from the faw-mills. 
 
 CrofTed Rock-fifii, a large branch of the North 
 "Weft, near its mouth or confluence, and at even- 
 ing arrived at Crofs-Creeks, another very confi- 
 derable branch of the river, flowing in through 
 its Weft banks. This creek gave name to a fine 
 inland trading town, on fome heights or fwelling 
 hills, from whence the creek defcends precipi- 
 tately, then gently meanders near a mile, through 
 lower level lands, to its confluence with the river, 
 affording moft convenient mill-feats : thefe pro- 
 fpedts induced active, enterprifmg men to avail 
 themfelves of fuch advantages pointed out to them 
 by nature ; they built mills, which drew people 
 to the place, and thefe obferving eligible fituations 
 for other profitable improvements, bought lots and 
 ereded tenements, where they exercifed mechanic 
 arts, as fmiths, v.'heelwrights, carpenters, coopers, 
 tanners, kc. And at length merchants were en- 
 couraged to adventure and fettle : in fliort, within 
 eight or ten years, from a grift-mill, faw-mijl, 
 fmith-fhop and a tavern, arofe a flourifliing com- 
 mercial town, the feat of government of the county 
 
 of 
 
4/6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of Cumberhnd. The leading men of the county, 
 feeing plainly the fuperior advantages ol: this fitua- 
 tion, on the banks of a famous navigable river, 
 petitioned the Affembly for a charter to empower 
 them to purchafe a diftrict, fufficient for founding a 
 large town ; which being granted, they immedi- 
 ately proceeded to mark out its precindls, and 
 named the new city Cambelton, a compliment to 
 
 Cambel, Efq. a gentleman of merit, and a 
 
 citizen of the county. When 1 was here about 
 twenty years ago, this town v/as marking out its 
 bounds, and there were then about twenty habita- 
 tions ; and now there are above a thoufand houfes, 
 mznj wealthy merchants, and refpeclable public 
 buildings, a vaft refort of inhabitants and travellers, 
 and jcontinual briik commerce by waggons, from 
 the back fettlements, with large trading boats, to 
 and from WilmingtOi), the feaport and flourifhing 
 trading town on the Clarendon, about forty miles 
 above the capes, which is about one hundred miles 
 below this town. The Clarendon or Cape Fear 
 river has its fource in the Cherokee mountains, 
 where its numerous confederate ftreams unite ; af- 
 ter leaving the firft ridges of the mountains, it af- 
 fames the name of Haw river, and courfing the 
 hilly fertile country, above one hundred and fifty 
 miles, receives through its Weft banks the Weil 
 branch, called Deep River, and after this union, 
 takes tlic name of the North-Weft of Cape Fear, 
 from whence down to Cambelton, about eighty 
 miles, it is navigable for perriauguas of confider- 
 able burthen. 
 
 Obfervcd near Cambelton a very curious fcan- 
 dent Fern (Pteris fcandens) rambling over low 
 buuies, in humid fituations ; the lower larger 
 ■fronds were digitated, or rather radiated, but 
 
 towards 
 
>:orvTH -America. 477 
 
 towards the tops cr extremities of the branches 
 they became tritid, haftated, and laltly lanceolate : 
 it is a delicate plant, of a yellowifli lively green, 
 and would be an ornament in a garden. 
 
 Sat off again to Cambelton, continuing yet up 
 the North Weft about fixty miles ; croll'ed over 
 this branch, and foon after croflcd the Roanoke, 
 and then refted a few days at Mr. Lucas's, a wor_ 
 thy old gentleman, a planter on JMehcrren river. 
 Obfcrved drolling over his fences and ftables, a 
 very fingular and ufeful fpecie? of the Gourd 
 (Cucurbita lagenaria) ; its neck or handle is above 
 two feet in length, and not above an inch in diame- 
 ter ; its belly round, which would contain about a 
 pint ; it makes excellent ladles, funnels. Sec. At 
 a little diftance from Mr. Lucas's, at the head of a 
 fwamp near the high road, I obferved a very curious 
 fpecies of Prinos, which grows feven or eight feet 
 high, the leaves broad, lanceolate, fharply fcrrated, 
 nervous, and of a deep green colour ; but its flrik- 
 ing beauty confifts in profufc clufters of fruit, col- 
 leded about the cafes or origin of the lafl fprincr's 
 fhoots ; ihefc berries are nearly round, about the 
 fize of middling grapes, of a fine clear fcarlet co- 
 lour, covered or inverted with an incarnate mift or 
 nebulee. 
 
 Being now arrived on ihe South border of Vir- 
 ginia, and the hoary frigid feafon far advanced, £ 
 Ihall pafs as fpeedily as pollible from hence to Penn- 
 fylvania, my native country ; fmce thofe cultivated 
 regions of Virginia and Maryland, through which 
 I defign to travel, have been over and' over ex- 
 plored, and defcribed by very able men in every 
 branch of natural hiftory. 
 
 After leaving Mehencn, I foon arrived at 
 
 Alexandjia 
 
47^ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA." 
 
 Alexandria in Virginia, a fine city on the Weft 
 banks of the Patowmac, about the 26th of Decem- 
 ber, having had excellent roads, and pleafant, 
 moderate weather, neither' fnow nor ice to be feen, 
 except a flight fall of fnow from a flying cloud, the 
 day before I reached this place ; but this evening it 
 clouded up from the Weft, the wind North-eaft 
 and cold. Next morning the fnow was eight or ten 
 inches deep on the ground, and the wind ftiifting to 
 North-weft, cleared up intenfely cold : I however 
 fat off and croffed the river juft below the falls, and 
 landed at George-town in Maryland. The fnow 
 was now deep every where around, the air cold to 
 an extreme, and the roads deep under fnow or 
 llippery with ice, rendered the travelling uncom- 
 fortable. 
 
 Being now arrived at Wright's-ferry, on the 
 Sufquehanna, I began anxioufly to look towards 
 home, but here I found almoft infuperable em- 
 barraifments : the river being but half frozen over, 
 there was no poffibility of crofhng here ; but hear- 
 ing that people croffed at Anderfon's, about five 
 miles above, early next morning 1 fat off again up 
 the river, in company with feverai travellers, fome 
 for Philadelphia : arriving at the ferry, we were 
 joined by a number of traders, with their pack- 
 horfes laad^d with leather and furs, where we all 
 agreed to venture over together ; and keeping at a 
 !noderate diftance from each other, examining well 
 our icy bridge, and being careful of our fteps, we 
 landed fafe on the oppofite fhnre, got to Lancafter 
 in the evening, and next morning fat forward again 
 towards Philadelphia, and in two days more arrived 
 at my father's houfe on the banks of the river 
 Schuylkill, within four miles of the city, January 
 1778: 
 
AN 
 
 ACCOUNT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PERSONS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS AND GOVERNMENT, 
 
 OF THE 
 
 MUSCOGULGES, or CREEKS, 
 CHEROKEES, CHACTAWS, kc, 
 
 ABORIGINES OF THE CONTINENT OF 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 V/ILLIAM BARTRAM. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^^l 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 CHAP. T. 
 
 Defer ipt ion of the charaaer^ (ufonis aid perfonx cf the 
 American Aborigines, fr::^' r,vj own obfer'va-'ifjiu, as 
 '■j: ell as from the general and impartial report zf anci- 
 ent, rcfpcSiable men, ei her of their 9ivn people, cr 
 'white traders, ivbo have fpent 7nanj days cf their 
 lives among/} them. 
 
 PERSONS AND OUALIFICATIONS. 
 
 i. HE males of the Chcrokccs, Mufccgulges, Si- 
 minoles, Chicafaws, Chaclaws, and confederate 
 iribes of the Creeks, are tall, erect, and moderately 
 Tobufl ; their limbs well fhaped, fo as generally to 
 form a perfed human figure ; their features regular, 
 and countenance open, dignified and placid ; yet 
 the forehead and brow fo formed, as to ftrike yon 
 inftantly with heroifin.and bravery ; the eye though 
 rather finall, yet adive and iull of fire ; the iris al- 
 ways black, and the nofe commonly inclining to the 
 aquiline. 
 
 Their countenance and a£lions exhibit an air of 
 magnanimity, fuperiority and independence. 
 
 Their complexion, of a reddifli brown or copper 
 colour ; tlieir hair long, lank, coarfe, and black as 
 a raven, and reficding the liij.e lultfe at different 
 expofures to tlic light. 
 
 The women of the Cherckees, are tall, llender, 
 ereft and of a delicate frame ; their features form- 
 ed with perfect fymmetrv, their countenance cheer- 
 
 ii fui 
 
4S2 TRAVHLS IN 
 
 ful and friendly, and they move with a becoming 
 grace and dignity. 
 
 The Mufcogulge women, though remarkably 
 fhort of ftature, are well formed ; their vifage 
 round, features regular and beautiful ; the brow 
 high and arched ; the eye large, black and lan- 
 guifiiing, expreifxve of modelty, diffidence, and 
 balhfulnefs ; thefe charms are their defenfive and 
 offenfive weapons, and they know very well how 
 to play them off, and under cover of thefe alluring 
 graces, are concealed the mod fubtile artifice ; 
 they are however loving and affectionate: they 
 are, I believe, the fmallelt race of women yet 
 known, feldom above five feet high, and I believe 
 the greater number never arrive to that ftature ; 
 their hands and feet not larger than thofe of Eu- 
 ropeans of nine or ten years of age: yet the men 
 are of gigantic ftature, a full fize larger than Eu- 
 ropeans ; many of them above fix feet, and few 
 under that, or five feet eight or ten inches. Their 
 complexion much darker than any of the tribes to 
 the North of them that I have feen. This defcrip- 
 tion will I believe comprehend the Mufcogulges, 
 their confederates, the Chaclaws, and 1 beheve the 
 Chicafaws) though I have never feen their women), 
 excepting however fome bands of the Siminoles, 
 Uches and Savannucas, who are rather taller and 
 flenderer, and their complexion brighter. 
 
 The Cherokees are yet taller and more robuft 
 than the Mufcogulges, and by far ihe largeft race 
 of men I have feen* j their complexions brighter 
 
 * There are, however, fome exceptions to this general obfervatlon, as I 
 have myfclf witneffed. Their prcfent grand chief or emperor (tlie Little 
 Carpenter, Atta-kul-kulla , is a man of remarkably fmall ftature, flender, 
 and of a delicate frame, the only inflance I faw in the nation : but he is a 
 aian of fupcrior abilities. 
 
 and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 483 
 
 and fomewhat of the olive cad, efpecially the adults ; 
 and Ibme of their young women are nearly as fair 
 and blooming as European women. 
 
 The Cherokees in their difpofitions and man- 
 ners are grave and fteady : dignified and circum- 
 fpe6t in their deportment ; rather flow and re- 
 ferved in converfation ; yet frank, cheerful, and 
 humane ; tenacious of the liberties and natural 
 rights of man ; fecret, dehberate and determined 
 in their councils ; honeft, juft and liberal, and 
 ready always to facriiice every plcafure and grati- 
 fication, even their blood, and life itfclf, to de- 
 fend their territory and maintain their rights. 
 They do homage to the Mufcogulges with re- 
 luftance, and are impatient under that galling 
 yoke. 1 was witnefs to a mod humiliating lafli, 
 which they paflively received from their red maf- 
 ters, at the great congrefs and treaty of Augufla, 
 when thefe people acceded with the Creeks, to 
 the cefTion of the New Purchafe ; where were 
 about three hundred of the Creeks, a great part of 
 whom were warriors, anil about one hundred Che- 
 rokees. 
 
 The firfl day of convention opened with fettling 
 the preliminaries, one article of which was a de- 
 mand on the part of the Georgians, to a territory 
 lying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them both, 
 which it fcems the Cherokees had, previous to 
 the opening of congrefs, privately conveyed to the 
 Georgians, unknown to the Creeks. The Geor- 
 gians mentioning this as a matter fettled, the 
 Creeks demanded in council, on what foundation 
 they built that claim, fiiying they had never ceded 
 thefe lands. The Georgians snfwered, that they 
 bought them of their fi lends and brothers the 
 Cherokees. The creeks nettled and incenfed at 
 
 I i " thisj 
 
4^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 this, a chief and warrior flarted up, and with an 
 agitated and terrific countenance, frowning me- 
 naces and diidain, fixed his eyes on the Cherokee 
 chiefs, and alkcd them what right they had to 
 give away their lands, calKng them old women, 
 and faying they had loivj ago obhged them to wear 
 the petticoat, a mofi humiliating and degrading 
 ftroke, in the prefence of the chiefs of the whole 
 Mufcogulge confederacy, of the Chicafaws, prin- 
 cipal men and citizens of Georgia, Carolina, Vir* 
 ginia, Maryland and Pennfylvania, in the face of 
 their own chiefs and citizens, and amidft the laugh 
 and jeers of the aiTcmbly, efpecialiy the young 
 men of Virginia, their old enemies and dreaded 
 neighbours : but humiliating as it really was, they 
 ^vere obliged to bear the Iligma paffively, and even 
 without a reply. 
 
 And moreover, thefe arrogant bravos and ufurp- 
 crs carried their pride and im.pcrtance to fuch 
 lengths, as even to threaten to diflblve the congrefs 
 and return home, unlefs the Georgians confcnted 
 to annul the fecret treaty with the Cherokees, and 
 receive that territory immediately from them, as ac- 
 knowledging their exclufive right of alienation ; 
 which was complied with, though violently ex- 
 torted from the Cherokees, contrary to right and 
 fanction of treaties ; fince the Savanna river and its 
 waters were acknowledged to be the natural and juft 
 bounds of territory betwixt the Cherokees and Muf- 
 cogulges. 
 
 The national character of the Mufcogulges, 
 when confidered in a political view, exhibits a 
 portraiture of a great or illuftrious heroe. A 
 proud, haughty and arrogant race of men ; they 
 are brave and valiant in war, ambitious of con- 
 queft, reftlefs and perpetually exercifing their 
 
 armsj. 
 
NORTH AMfiRIC\. 4^5 
 
 arms, yet magnanimous and n'^erclful to a van- 
 quifhed enemy, when he fubmits and feeks their 
 friendfhip and protcdion : always uniting the van- 
 quiflicd tribes in confederacy with them j when they 
 immediately enjoy, unexceptionably, every right of 
 free citizens, and are from that moment united in 
 one common band of brotherhood. They were ne- 
 ver known to exterminate a tribe,- except the Yama- 
 fees, who would never fubmit on any terms, but 
 fought it out to the lad, only about forty or fifty 
 of them efcaping at the laft decifivc battle, who 
 threw themfelves under the protedionof the Spani- 
 ards at St. Augufline. 
 
 According to their own account, which I believe 
 to be true, after their arrival in this country, they 
 joined in alliance and perpetual amity with the Bri- 
 tilh colonilts of South Carolina and Georgia, which 
 they never openly violated ; but on the contrary, 
 puifued every flcp to ftrengthen the alliance ; and 
 their aged chiefs to this day, fpeak of it with tears 
 of joy, and exult in that memorable tranfadion, as 
 one of the moil glorious events in the annals of their 
 nation. 
 
 As an infrancc of their ideas of political impar- 
 tial juftice, and homage to the fupreme Being, as 
 the high arbiter of human tranfa<S:ions, who alone 
 claims the right of taking away the life of man, 1 
 bee: leave to' offer to the reader's confidcration, 
 the following event, as I had it from the mouth 
 of a Spaniard, a refpedable inhabitant of Eaft Flo- 
 rida. 
 
 The fon of the Spanifh governor of St. Au- 
 guPane, together with two young gentlemen, his 
 friends and aflbciates, .conceived a defign of 
 amufmg themfelves in a parry of fpnrt, at hunt- 
 in rr 
 
486 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ing and fiHiin^. Having provided themfelvcs 
 with a convenient bark, ammunition, fifhing 
 tackle, kc. they fet I'ail, direding their courfe 
 South, along the coaft, towards the point of Flo- 
 rida, putting into bays and rivers, as conveniency 
 and the profpeft oF game invited them. The 
 pleafing rural and diverfifieJ fcenes of the Florida 
 coad, imperceptibly allured them far to the fouth, 
 beyond the Spanifn fortified pod. Unfortunate 
 youths! regardlefs of the advice and injunctions 
 of their parents and friends, ftill purfuing the de. 
 lufive objects, they entered a harbour at evening 
 with a view of chafmg the roe-buck, and hunting 
 up the fturdv bear, folacing themfelves with de- 
 licious fruits, and repofing under aromatic fhades ; 
 when, alas! cruel unexpedled event! in the bea- 
 tific moments cf their flumbers, they were fur- 
 rounded, arrefled and carried off by a predatory 
 band of Creek Indians, proud of the capture, fo 
 rich a prize ; they hurry away into cruel bondage 
 the haplefs youths, conducting them by devious 
 paths through dreary fwamps and boundlefs favan- 
 nas, to the Nation. 
 
 At that time the Indians were at furious war with 
 the Spaniards, fcarcely any bounds fet to their cru- 
 elties on either fide : in fliort, the miferable youths 
 were condemned to be burnt. 
 
 But there were Englifh traders in thefe towns, 
 who learning the character of the captives, and ex- 
 pecting great rewards from the Spanifh governor, 
 if they could dehver them, petitioned the Indians 
 on their behalf, exprefiing their wifhes to obtain 
 their refcue, offering a great ranfom ; acquaint- 
 ing them at the fame time, that they were young 
 men of high rank, and one of them the governor's 
 
 fon. 
 
 Upon 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 4^7 
 
 Upon this, the head men, or chiefs of the w-holc 
 nation, were convened, and after folemn and ma- 
 ture deUberation, they returned the tiaders their 
 final anfwer and determination, which was as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 " Brothers and friends. We have been confi- 
 xiering upon this bufinefs concerning the captives— 
 and that, under the eye and fear of the Great 
 Spirit. You know that thefe people are our cruel 
 enemies ; they fave no lives of us red men, who 
 fall in their power. You fay that the youth is the 
 fon of the Spanifli governor j we believe it ; we 
 are forry he has fallen into our hands, but he is 
 our enemy : the two young men (his friends) are 
 equally our enemies ; we are forry to fee them 
 licre ; but we know no difference in their ilefli and 
 blood ; they are equally our enemies ; if we fave 
 one we mult fave all three : but we cannot do it ; 
 the red men require their blood to appeafe the fpirits 
 of their flain relatives j they have entrufted us with 
 the guardianlhip of our laws and rights, we cannot 
 betray them. 
 
 " However we have a facred prefcrlptlon rela- 
 tive to this affair, which allows us to extend 
 mercy to a certain degree : a third is faved by 
 lot : the Great Spirit allows us to put it to that 
 decifion ; he is no refpedlcr of perfons." The 
 lots were call. The governor's fon was taken and 
 burnt. 
 
 If we confider them with refpeft to their pri- 
 vate charafter or in a moral view, they muft, I 
 think, claim our approbation, if we dived our- 
 fclves of prejudice and think freely. As moral 
 men they certainly Hand in no need of European 
 civilization. 
 
 They 
 
48B TRAVELS IN 
 
 They are jufi, honefl, liberal, and hofpitable to 
 ft rangers; confideTiife, loving and atFedlionate to 
 their wives and relatiojp^ ; fond of their children ; 
 induftiioiin, frugal, temperate, and perfeverlng ; 
 charitable and forbearing. I have been weeks and 
 months amongll them and in their towns, and never 
 obferved the lead fign of contention or wrangling : 
 never faw^ an inffance of an Indian beating his v^fifc, 
 or even reproving her in anger. In this cafe they 
 fland as examples of reproof to thetnofl ci\ ilized 
 nations, as not being defective in juftice, gratitude 
 and a good underftanding ; for indeed their wives 
 merit their efteem and the moft gentle treatment, 
 they being induftricns, frugal, careful, loving and 
 affedlionate. 
 
 The Mufcogulges are more volatile, fjDrightly 
 and talkativt than their Northern neighbours, the 
 Cherokees ; and, though far more diftant from 
 the white fettlements than any nation Eaft of the 
 Miffiffippi or Ohio, appear evidently to have made 
 greater advances towards the refinements of true 
 civilization, which cannot, in the lead degree, /be 
 attributed 10 the good examples of ' the white 
 people. 
 
 Their internal police and family economy at 
 once engage the notice of European travellers, and 
 incontrovertibly place thefe people in an illuflrious 
 point of view : their liberality, intimacy and friend- 
 ly intcrcourfe one with another, without any re- 
 flraint of ceremonious formality, as if they v/ere 
 even infenfible of the ufe or rieceility of affociating 
 the paffions or affections of avarice, ambition or 
 covetoufnefs. 
 
 A man goes forth on his bufinefs or avoca- 
 tions ; he calls in at another town 5 if he wants 
 
 vidualsj 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 489 
 
 Ticlaais, reft or foclal converfation, he confidently 
 approaches the door of the firlt houfe he choofes, 
 faying " I am come ;*' the good man or woman 
 rephes, " You are ; it's well.** Immediately vic- 
 tuals and drink are ready ; he eats and drinks a 
 little, then fmokes tobacco, and converfes either of 
 private matters, public talks, or the news of the 
 town. He rifes and fays, " I go!" the other an- 
 fwers, " You do !" He then proceeds again, and 
 fteps in at the next habitation he likes, or repairs 
 to the public fquare, where are people aKvays con- 
 verfing by day, or dancing all night, or to fome 
 more private affembly, as he likes ; he needs no 
 one to introduce him, any more than the black- 
 bird or thrufli, when he repairs to the fruitful 
 groves, to regale on their luxuries, and entertain 
 the fond female with evening fongs. 
 
 It is aflonifhing, though a fact, as w^ell as a 
 {harp reproof to the white people, if they w ill allow 
 themfelves liberty to refled: and form a jufl efli- 
 mate, and I mufl own elevates thefe people to the 
 firfl rank amongd mankind, that they have been 
 able to refill the continual efforts of the com- 
 plicated hofl of vices, that have for ages over-run 
 the nations of the old world, and fo contaminated 
 their morals ; yet more fo, fmce fuch vaft armies 
 of thefe evil fpirits have invaded this continent, and 
 clofely invefted them on all fides. Atlonifliing in- 
 deed ! when we behold the ill, immoral condud 
 of too many white people, who refide amongfl 
 them : notwithftanding which, it feems natural, 
 eligible, and even eafy, for thefe fimple, illite- 
 rate people, to put in practice thofe beautiful 
 lectures delivered to us by tlie ancient fages 
 and philofophers, and recorded for our inftruc- 
 tion. 
 
 I faw 
 
49<3 TRAV£I.S IN 
 
 I fdw a young Indian In the Nation, who when 
 prefent, and beholJincr the fcenes ot mad intem- 
 peiance and folly acted by the white men in. the 
 town, clapped his hand to his bread, and Avith 
 a Imlle, looked aloft as if flruck with ailoniih- 
 liient, and wrapt in love and adoration to the 
 Deity j as who fhould fay, " O thou Great and 
 Good Spirit ! we are indeed fenfible of thy benig- 
 nity and favour to us red men, in denying us the 
 underftanding of white men. We did not know 
 before they came amongfl us that mankind could 
 become fo bale, and fall fo below the dignity oi 
 their nature. Defend us from their manners, laws 
 and power.'* 
 
 The Mufcogulges, with their confederates, the 
 Chadaws, Chicafaws, and perhaps the Cherokees, 
 eminently deferve the encomium of all nations, for 
 their wifdcm and virtue in refilling and even re- 
 pelling the greatelt, and even the common enemy of 
 mankind, at lead of inoft of the European nations, I 
 mean fpirituous Itquors. 
 
 The fird and mod cogent article in all their 
 treaties with the Vvhite people, is, that there Ihall 
 iiot be any kind of fpirituous liquors fold or brought 
 iiito their towns ; and the traders are allowed but 
 two kegs (five gallons each) which is fuppofed to 
 he fuilicient for a company, to ferve them on the 
 road ; and if any of this remains on their approach- 
 ing the towns, they mull fpill it on the ground or 
 iecrete it on the road, for it muft not come into 
 ilie town. 
 
 On my journey from Mobile to the Nation, jufl/ 
 after we had paffcd the junction of the Penfacola 
 road with our path, two young traders overtook 
 us cu their way to the Nation. We inquired 
 
 what 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 491 
 
 v/hat news ? They informed us that they were run- 
 ning about forty kegs of Jamaica fpirits (which by 
 dailiing would have made at lead eighty kegs) to 
 the Nation ; and after having left the town three 
 or four days, they were furprifed on the road in 
 the evening, juft after thcv had come to camp, by 
 a party of Creeks, who difcovering their fpecies of 
 merchandize, they forthwith flruck their toma- 
 hawks into every keg, giving the liquor to the 
 thirdy fand, not tafling a drop of it themfelvcs ; 
 and they had enough to do to keep the tomahawks 
 from their own fkulls. 
 
 How are we to account for their excellent policy 
 in civil gov.ernment : it cannot derive its influence 
 from coercive laws, for they have no fuch artificial 
 fyflem. Divine v/ifdom dictates and they obey. 
 
 "We fee and know full well the direful effefls of this 
 torrent of evil, which has its fource in hell ; and 
 we know furely, as well as thefe favages, how to 
 divert its courfe and fupprefs its inundations. Do 
 we want wifdom and virtue ? let our youth then 
 repair to the venerable councils of the MufcoguU 
 ges. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
49* TRAVELS IN 
 
 C H A P. II. 
 
 On their Government and Chi! Society, 
 
 Thk conflitution or fyfliein of their police is 
 (Imply natural, and as little coAvplicLited as that 
 which is fuppofed to dlreft or rule the approved 
 economy of the ant and the bee ; and feems to be 
 nothing more than the fnnple dictates of natural 
 reafon, plain to every one, yet recommended to 
 them by their wife and virtuous elders as divine, 
 liecaufe necelTary for fecuring mutual happinefs : 
 equally binding and efteftual, as being propofed 
 and afiented to in the general combination : every 
 oner's confcience being a fufficient convitlion (the 
 golden rule, do as you would be done by) in- 
 Itantly prefents to view, and produces a fociety of 
 peace and love, which in eE-ed; better maintains 
 liuman happinefs, than the mod complicated fyfr 
 tem of modern politics, or fumpLuary laws, en- 
 forced by coercive means : for here the people are 
 all on an equality, as to the poifeffion and enjoy- 
 ments of the common necefi'aries and conveniences 
 of life, for luxries and fuperfiuities they have 
 none. 
 
 This natural coriflltuilon Is (imply fubordlnate ; 
 and the fupreme, fovereign or executive power re- 
 f dcs in a council of elderly chiefs, warriors and 
 others, refpedable for wifdom, valour and virtue. 
 
 At the head of this venerable fenate, prefides 
 their mico or king, which lignifies a maglitrate 9i 
 chief ruler : the governors of Carolina, Georgia, 
 &c. are called micos ; and the king of England is 
 called Ant-apala-mico-clucco*, that is the great 
 king, over or beyond the great water. 
 
 ♦ CIuccofiguififE great or excellent 
 
 The 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 •493 
 
 The kinp^, although he is acknowltdged to be 
 the firft and greatefl man in the town or tribe, and 
 honoured with every due and rational inaik of love 
 and edcem, and when prcfiding in council, with a 
 humility and homage as reverent as that paid to the 
 molt defpoiic monarch in Europe or the Eaft, 
 and when abfent, his feat is not filled by any other 
 perfon, yet he is not dreaded ; and when out of the 
 council, he afTociates with the people as a commoii 
 man, converfss with them, and they with him, ia 
 perfeCL cafe and familiarity. 
 
 The mico or king, though elective, yet his ad- 
 vancement to that fupreme dignity mull be under- 
 ftood in a very different light from the eledive mo- 
 narchs of the old world, where the progrefs to 
 magiftracy is generally effected by fchifni and the 
 influence of friends gained by craft, bribery, and 
 often by more violent efforts ; and after the throne 
 is obtained, by meafures little better than ufurpa- 
 lion, he muff be proteded and fupported there, by 
 the fame bafe means that carried him thither. 
 
 But here behold the majeny of the Mufcogulga 
 mico ! he does not either publicly or privately 
 beg of the people to place him in a fituation to 
 command and rule them : no, his appearance is 
 altogr^ther myilerious ; as a beneficent deity he 
 rifes kin? over them, as the fun rifes to blcfs the 
 earth ! 
 
 No one will tell you how or when he became 
 their king ; but he is univcrfally acknovvledged 
 to be the greateft perfon among them, and he is 
 loved, effeemed and reverenced, although he af- 
 fociates, eats, drinks and dances with them in 
 common as another ir.an j his drefs is the fame, 
 
 and 
 
494 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and a ftiangcr could not difllngulfh the king's 
 habitation, from that of any other citizen, by any 
 fort of fplendour or magnificence ; yet he perceives 
 they acl as though their mico beheld them, him- 
 felf invifible. In a word, their mico feems to 
 them the reprefentative of Providence or the 
 Great Spirit, -whom they acknovvledge to prefide 
 over and influence their councils and pubUc pro- 
 ceedings. He perfonally prefides daily in their 
 councils, either at the rotunda or pubhc fquare : 
 and even here his voice, in regard to bufinefs in 
 hand, is regaKled no more, than any other chief's 
 or fenator's, no farther than his advice, as being 
 the befl and wifeft man of the tribe, and not by 
 virtue of regal prerogative. But whether their 
 ultimate decifions require unanimity, or only a 
 majority of voices, I am uncertain ; but probably 
 where there is a majority, the minority volunta- 
 rily accede. 
 
 The mofl active part the mico takes is in the civil 
 government of the town or tribe : here he has the 
 power and prerogative of calling a council, to de- 
 liberate on peace and war, or all pubhc concerns, 
 as inquiring into, and deciding upon complaints 
 and diiferences ; but he has not the leafl: fiiadow of 
 exclufive executive pov/er. He is complimented 
 with the firlt vifits of ftrangers, giving audience to 
 ambafladors, with prefents, and he has aifo the dif- 
 pofal of the public granary. 
 
 The next man in order of dignity and pov/cr, 
 is the great v.-ar chief : he rej)rcrents and exer- 
 cifes the dignity of the mico, in his abfencc, in 
 council ; his voice is of the greatefl weight, in 
 military affairs 5 his power and authority are en- 
 tirely independent of the mico, though when a 
 
 mico 
 
NORTH AMLRICA. 4j5 
 
 niico goes on ?.n expedition, he heads the Hiuiy, ^ 
 and is there the war chioT. There are man)' of 
 thefe war chief's in a to^vn or tribe, who are cap« 
 tains or leaders of military parties ; they are t.1- 
 derly men, who in their youthiul days have cAC- 
 tinguifhed themfehcs in war by vaK)ur, lubtihy 
 and intrepidity ; and thefe veteran chitis, in a 
 great degree, confUtutc their truly diL^niiied and 
 venerable fenates. 
 
 There is in every town or tribe a high pricn., 
 ufually called by the white people juggkrs, or co:i- 
 jurers, befides feveral ju;ilv-.is or graduates. But 
 the ancient high prieiT or feer, prefidjs in fpirltuis.! 
 affairs, and is a peribn of confequence ; he main- 
 tains and exercifcs great influence in the (late, par- 
 ticularly in military affairs ; the fenate never deter- 
 mine on an e::pedition againfl their enemy without 
 his counfcl and afii fiance. Thefe people generally 
 believe ib.at their fccr has communion with power- 
 ful invifible fpirils, who they fuppofc have a fiiarc 
 in the rule and government of human affairs, as 
 well as the elements ; that he can predicl the reiV.lt 
 of an expedition ; and his influence is fo great, 
 that they have been known frequently to itop, and 
 turn back an army, Vvhcn within a day^s journey of 
 their enemy, after a march of feveral hundred 
 miles; and indeed their predi<flions have furpnzed 
 many people. They iorettl rain or drought, and 
 pretend to bring rain at pleafsre, cure difeafes, a;id 
 cxercife witchcraft, invoke or expel evil 'i)lrits, 
 and even affume the power of directing thunder 
 and lightning. 
 
 Thefe Indians arc by no n^Lins idolaters, un- 
 lefs fheir puffing the tobaeco fmoke towards tlu 
 fun, and rejoicing at the appearance oi the nev, 
 
 mo.M:, 
 
496 TRAVELS IK 
 
 V moon*, may be termed fo. So far from Idolatry 
 are they, that they have no images amongft them, 
 nor any religious rite or ceremony that I could 
 perceive ; but adore the Great Spirit, the giver and 
 taker away of the breath of life, with the mofl 
 profound and refpeclful homage. They believe in 
 a future itate, where the fpirit exifts, which they 
 call the world of fpirits, where they enjoy different 
 degrees of tranquilHty or comfort, agreeably to 
 their life fpcnt here: a perfon who in his life has 
 been an indudrious hunter, provided well for his 
 family, an intrepid and adive warrior, juil, upright, 
 and done all the good he could, will, they fay, in 
 the world of fpirits, live in a warm, pleafant coun- 
 try, where are expanfive, green, flowery favannas 
 and high forefts, watered with rivers of pure wa- 
 ters, replenifhed with deer, and every fpecies of 
 game ; a ferene, unclouded and peaceful fky ; in 
 Ihort, where there is fulnefs of pleafure, uninter- 
 rupted. 
 
 They have many accounts of trances and vifions 
 of their people, who have been fuppofed to be dead, 
 but afterwards reviving, have related their vifions, 
 which tend to enforce the pradice of virtue and 
 the moral duties. 
 
 Before I went amongft the Indians, I had often 
 heard it reported, that thefe people, when their 
 parents, through extreme old age, become de- 
 crepid and helplefs, in compaffion for their miferies, 
 fend them to the other world, by a flroke of the 
 tomaha\\k or bullet. Such a degree of depra- 
 vity and fpecies cf impiety always appeared 
 
 * I have obferved the young fellows very mcry and jocofc, at the ap- 
 pearance of the new moon, faying, how afliamed flic looks under the veil, 
 fince (leaping with the fun thefe two or three nights, flic is afliamed to 
 Ihowhcr fate, &c 
 
 to 
 
KCRTM AMERICA. 497 
 
 to me fo incredibly inhuman and horrid, that it was 
 with the utmoft difficulty I afiTumed refolution fu^- 
 cient to enquire into it. 
 
 The traders aflured me that they knew no inflance 
 of fuch barbarifm ; but that there had been in- 
 llances of the communities performing fuch a deed 
 at the earneft requefl of the viftim. 
 
 When I was at Mucclaffe town, early one morn- 
 ing, at the invitation of the chief trader, we re- 
 paired to the public fquare,. taking with us fome 
 prefents for the Indian chiefs. On our arrival we 
 took our feats in a circle of venerable men, rouncj 
 a fire in the centre of the area : other citizens were 
 continually coming in, and amongfl: them I was 
 ftruck with avve and veneration at the appearance 
 of a very aged man ; his hair, what little he had, 
 was as white as fnow ; he was conducted by three 
 young men, one having hold of each arm, and the 
 third behind to fteady him. On his approach the 
 •vi'hole circle faluted him, " welcome," and made 
 way for him : he looked as fmiling and cheerful as 
 youth, yet llone-blind by extreme old age : he was 
 the moll ancient chief of the tov»?n, and they all 
 feemed to reverence him. Soon after the old man 
 had feated himfelf, I diltributed my prefents, giving 
 him a very fine handkerchief and a twifl: of choice 
 tobacco, which paiTed through the hands of an el- 
 derly chief who fat next him, telling him it was a 
 prefent from one of their white brothers, lately 
 arrived in the nation from Charlefton : he received 
 the prefent with a fmile, and thanked me, return- 
 ing the favour immediately with his own (tone 
 pipe and cat fkin of tobacco : and then compli- 
 mented me with a long oration, the purport ot 
 which was the value he fet on the friendfliip of 
 
 Kk the 
 
49^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 the Carolinians. He faid, that when he was a 
 young man tliey had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, 
 knives, razors nor guns, that they then made ufc 
 of their own (tone axes, clay pots, flint knives, 
 bows and arrows j and that he was the firfl man 
 who brought the white people's goods into his 
 tow'n, which he did on his back from Charlefton, 
 five hundred miles on foot, for , they had no horfes 
 then amongfi; them. 
 
 The trader then related to me an anecdote con- 
 cerning this ancient patriarch, which occurred not 
 long before. 
 
 One morning after his attendants had led him 
 to the council fire, before feating himfelf, he ad- 
 dreffed himfelf to the people after this manner — 
 
 " You yet love me ; what can I do novv^ to merit 
 your regard ? nothing ; I am good for nothing ; 
 I cannot fee to fhoot the buck or hunt up the fturdy 
 bear ; I know I am but a burthen to you ; I have 
 lived long enough ; now let my fpirit go ; I want 
 to fee the warriors of my youth in the country of 
 fpirits : (bareing his bread) here is the hatchet, take 
 it and ftrike." They anfwered with one united 
 voice, " We will not ; we cannot j we want vou 
 here." 
 
 CflAP- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. -499 
 
 ^ C H A P. in. 
 
 Of their Drcfs, Feajis and Divertifements. 
 
 THE vouth of both fexcs arc fond of dccoratin'T 
 themfclves with external ornan^cnts. The men 
 fliave their head, leaving only a^rnarrow crefl or 
 comb, beginning at the crown of the head, where 
 it is about two inches broad and about the fame 
 height, and (lands frizzed upright ; but this crefl 
 tending backwards, gradually widens, covering the 
 hinder part of the head and back of the neck : the 
 iank hair behind is ornamented with pendant filver 
 quills, and then jointed or articulated lilver plates; 
 and ufually the middle fafcicle of hair, being by far 
 the longeft, is wrapped in a large quill of filver, or 
 the joint of a fmall reed, curioufly fculptured and 
 painted, the hair continuing through it terminates 
 in a tail or tafl'cl. 
 
 Their ears are lacerated, feparating the border 
 or cartilaginous limb, which at firfl is bound round 
 very clofe and tight with leather firings or thongs, 
 and anointed with frefii bear's oil, until healed : a 
 piece of lead being faftened to it, by its weight ex- 
 tends this cartilage an incredible length, which 
 afterwards being craped, or bound round in brafs 
 or fdver wire, extends femicircularly like a bow or 
 crefcent ; and it is then very elaftic, even fo as to 
 fpring and bound about with the leait motion or 
 flexure of the body ; this is decorated with foft 
 white plumes of heron feathers. 
 
 A very curious diadem or band, about four 
 
 inches broad, and ingenioufly wrought or woven, 
 
 and curioufly decorated with ftoncs, beads, 
 
 wampum, porcupine quills, i^c. encircles their 
 
 K k 2 temples : 
 
500 TRAVJiLS IN 
 
 temples ; the front peak of it being embelli/hed 
 with a high waving plume, of crane or heron 
 feathers. 
 
 The clothing of their body is very fimple and 
 friigah Sometimes a ruffled (liirt of fine linen, 
 next the fKin, and a flap, which covers their lower 
 parts; this garment fomewhat refembles the ancient 
 Roman breeches, or the kilt of the Highlanders ; it 
 ufually confifts of a piece of blue cloth, about 
 eighteen inches wide ; ihis they pafs betv/cen their 
 thighs, and both ends being taken up and drav/n 
 through a belt round their waifl, the ends fall 
 down, one befoie, and the other behind, not quite 
 to the knee ; this flap is ufually plaited and in- 
 dented at the ends, and ornamented with beads, 
 tinfel iace, &c. 
 
 The leg is furniflied with cloth boots ; they reach 
 from the ancle to the calf, and are ornamented with 
 lace, beads, filver bells, &c. 
 
 The ftillepica or moccafin defends and adorns 
 the feet ; it feems to be an imitation of the ancient 
 bufkin or fandal, very ingenioufly made of deer 
 {kins, dreffed very foft, and curioufly ornamented 
 according to fancy. 
 
 Eefide this attire, they have a large mantle of 
 the fined cloth they are able to purchafe, always 
 either of a fcarlet or tlue colour ; this mantle is 
 fancifully decorated with rich lace or fringe round 
 the border, and often with little round filver, or 
 brafs bells. Some have a fhort cloak, jull large 
 enou2:h to cover the fhoulders and brcaft ; this is 
 moil ingenioufly conflirucled, of feathers woven or 
 placed in a natural imbricated manner, ufually of 
 the fcarlet feathers of the flamingo, or others of 
 the gayeft colour. 
 
 , They 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 50! 
 
 They have large filver crcfcenis, or gorgets, 
 which being fulpended by a ribband round the neck, 
 lie upon the breafl ; and the arms arc ornamented 
 with filver bands, or bracelets, and lilver and gold 
 chains, &c. a collar inverts the neck. 
 
 The head, neck and bread, are painted with 
 Vermillion, and fome of the warriors have rhc Ikin 
 of the bread, and mufcular parts of the body, very 
 curioufly infcribcd, or adorned, with hieroglyphick 
 fcroll?, llowers, figures of animals, flars, crefcents, 
 and the fun in the ctrirre of the breaft. This paint- 
 ing of the flefli, I underfiand, is performed in their 
 youth, by pricking the fkin with a needle, until 
 the blood ilarts, and rubbing in a bhieiili tindl:, 
 which is as permanent as their life. The fhirt hangs 
 loofe about the waid, like a frock, or fplit dov.n 
 before, refembling a gown, and is fometimes wrap- 
 ped clofe, and the waid encircled by a curious belt 
 or fadi. 
 
 The drefs of the females is fomewhat different 
 from that of the men : their fiap or petticoat is 
 made after a diiferent manner, is larger and longer, 
 reaching almod to the middle of the leg, and is put 
 on differently ; they have no diirt or ffrift, but a 
 little diort waidcoat, ufually made of callico, print- 
 ed linen, or fine cloth, decorated with lace, beads, 
 kc. They never wear boots or dockings, but their 
 buff^ins reach to the middle of the leg. They never 
 cut their hair, but plait it in wreaths, which are 
 turned up, andfadened on the^crown, with a filver 
 broach, forming a wreathed tbp»knot, decorated 
 with an incredible quantity of filk ribbands, of 
 various colours, which dream down on every fide, 
 almod to the ground. They never painr', except 
 thofe of a particular clafs, when difpofed to grant 
 certain favours :o the other fex. 
 
 But 
 
502 " TRAVELS IN 
 
 But thefe decorations are only to be confidercd 
 as indailgencies on particular occafions, and the 
 privilege of youth ; as at weddings, feftivals, 
 dances, &c. or when the men alVemble to aft the 
 ■war farce, on the evening immediately preceding 
 their march on a holtile expedition ; for ufually 
 they are almoft naked, contenting themfelves with 
 the flap and fometimes a fliirt, boots and moccafins. 
 I'he mantle is feldom worn by the men, except at 
 night, in the winter feafon, when extremely cold ; 
 and by the women at dances, when it ferves the 
 purpofe of a veil ; and the females always wear the 
 jacket;^ flap, and buflcin, even children as foon or 
 before they can walk ; whereas the maie youth go 
 perfeftly naked until tliey are twelve oi fifteen years 
 of age. 
 
 The junior prlePts or ftudent^ conflantly wear 
 the mantle or robe, which Is white ; and they 
 have a gre;it ovvd fkin cafed and fluffed very in- 
 genioufly, lo well executed, as almoll to repre- 
 fent the living bird, having large fparkling glafs 
 beads, or buttons, lixed in the head for eyes : 
 this enfign of wifdoni and divination, they v/ear 
 fometimes as a creft on the top of the head, at 
 other times the image fils on the arm, or is borne 
 on the hand. Thele bachelors are alfo diftin- 
 guifliable from the other people, by their tacitur- 
 nity, grave • and folemn countenance, dignified 
 ftejv and finging to themfelves fongs or hymns, 
 in a lov^' f\ve:t voice, as they flroll about the' 
 tov/n.\ 
 
 Thefe f eople like all other nations, are fond of 
 mufic and dancing : their mufic is both vocal and 
 inftrumenlal ; but of the latter they have fcarcely 
 any thing worth the name ; the tambour, rattle- 
 gourd, andj a kind of flute, made of a Jomt of reed 
 
 or 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 y^j 
 
 or the tibia of the deer's leg ; on this Inftrument 
 they perform badly, and at bell it is rather a hide- 
 ous melancholy dilcord, than harmony. It is only 
 young fellows who amuie themfelves on this 
 howling infhument ; but the tambour and rattle, 
 accompanied with their fweet low voices, pro- 
 duce a pathetic harmony, keeping exa>5i: time 
 together, and the countenance of the mulician, at 
 proper times, feems to exprefs the folemu elevated 
 llate of the mind : at that time there feems not 
 only a harmony between him and his inflrument, 
 but it inHantly touches tiie feelings of the attentive 
 audience, as the influence of an active and power- 
 ful fpirit ; there is then an united univerfal fenfalion 
 of delight and peaceful union of fouls throughout the 
 aifembly. 
 
 Their mufic, vocal and indrumental, united, 
 keeps exact time v.ith the performers or dancers. 
 
 They have an endlcfs variety of fleps, but the 
 mofl common, and that which 1 term the moft 
 civil, and indeed the moft admired and praftifed 
 amon'rft themfelves, is a flow fhufHin<T alternate 
 ftep ; both feet move forv/ard one after the other, 
 firft the right foot forcmoft, and next the left, 
 moving one after the other, in oppofite circles, 
 i. e. iirft a circle of young men, and v/Ithin, a 
 circle of young women, moving together oppofite 
 v'ay.<J, tlie men with the courfe of the fun, and the 
 females contrary to it ; the. men flrlke their arm 
 with the open hand, and the girls clap hands, and 
 raife their Ihrlll fweet voices, anfwering an elevated 
 ihout of the men at dated times of termination of 
 the flanzas ; and the girls perform an interlude or 
 chorus feparately. 
 
 To accompany their dances thev have fongs, 
 
 of 
 
504 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of different claffes, as martial, bacchanalian and 
 amorous ; which laft, I mufl confefs, are extrava- 
 gantly libidinous ; and they have moral fongs, 
 which fecm to be the moft effeemed and pradifed, 
 and anfwer the purpole of religious ledtures. 
 
 Some of their moft favourite fongs and dances, 
 they have from their enemies, the Chadaws ; for it 
 feems thefe people are very eminent for poetry and 
 mufic ; every town amongft them ftrives to excel 
 each other in compofmg new fongs for dances ; 
 and by a cuftom amongx^t them, they muft have at 
 leaft one new fong, for exhibition, at every annual 
 bulk. 
 
 The young muftee, who came with me to the 
 MucclafTes from Mobile, having Chaclaw blood 
 in his veins from his mother, was a fenfible young 
 fellov/, and by his father had been inllruded in 
 reading, writing and arithmetic, and could fpeak 
 Englifli very well. He took it into his head to 
 travel into the Chadaw country : his views were 
 magnanimous, and his defigns in the highefl de- 
 gree commendable, nothing lefs than to inform 
 himfelf of every fpecies of arts and fciences, that 
 might be of ul'e and advantage when introduced 
 into his own country, but mere particularly mu- 
 fic and poetry. With thefe views he privately 
 left the Nation, went to Mobile, and there en- 
 tered into the fervice of the trading company to 
 the Chadaws, as a white man ; his eafy, com- 
 municative, adive and familiar difpofition and 
 manners, being agreeable to that people, pro- 
 cured him accefs every where, and favoured his 
 fubtilty and srtihce : at length, however, the 
 Chadaws hearing of his lineage and confangui- 
 nity with the Creeks, by the father's fide, pro- 
 nounced him a Creek, and confequently an ene- 
 my 
 
KORTH AMKRICA. 505 
 
 ray and a fpy amongft them, and fecretly refolved 
 to difpatch him. The young philoibpher got no-' 
 tice of their fufpicions, and h^ftile intentions, in 
 time to make his cfcape ; though clofcly purfued, 
 he kept a-head of his fanguinary purfucrs, arrived 
 at Mobile, and threw himfelf under the protedlion 
 of the Englifh, entered the fervice of the trader of 
 Mucclalfc, who was then fctting ofl'for the Nation, 
 and notwithflanding the fpecd with which we tra- 
 velled, narrowly efcaped the ardour and vigilance 
 of his purfuing enemies, who furpriled a company 
 of emigrants, in the defarts of Schambe, the very 
 night after wc met them, expeding to intercept 
 him thereabout. 
 
 The young traveller having learned all their mod 
 celebrated new fongs and poetry, at a great dance 
 and feftival in the Mucclaffe, a day or two after 
 our arrival, the youth prefled him to give out fome 
 of his new fongs : he complied with their entrea- 
 ties, and the fongs and dance went round with 
 harmony and eclat. There was a young Chaclaw 
 flave girl in the circle, who foon after difcovered 
 very afl'ecling fenfations of affliclion and diftrefs 
 of mind, and before the conclufion of the dance, 
 many of her companions complimented her with 
 fympathetic fighs and tears, from their own fpark- 
 ling eyes. As foon as I had an opportunity, I 
 inquired of the young Orpheus, the caufe of 
 that fong being fo diilrefling to the young fluve. 
 He repUed, that when Hie was lately taken cap- 
 tive, her father and brothers were fiain in the 
 conteft, and (he underdanding the fcnfe of the 
 fong, called to remembrance the tragical fate of 
 her family, arid could not forbear weeph:g at the 
 recital. 
 
 The 
 
5o5 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The meaning of the chorus was. 
 
 All men muft furely die, 
 The' no one knows how foon, 
 Yet when the time (liall come, 
 The event may be joyful. 
 
 Thcfe doleful moral fongs or elegies, have a 
 quick and fenfihle efFe6l on their paiTions, and dif- 
 cover a lively affeftion and fenfibility : their coun- 
 tenance now dejecled, again, by an eafy tranfition, 
 becomes gently elevated, as if in folemn addrefs or 
 fupplication, accompanied with a tremulous, fweet, 
 lamentable voice : a ftranger is for a moment loft 
 to himfelf as it were, or his mind, affociated with 
 the perfon immediately afFe^led, is in danger of re- 
 vealing his own diftrefs unawares. 
 
 They have a variety of games for exercife and 
 paftime : fome particular to the men, fome to the 
 female fex, and others wherein both fexes are en- 
 gaged. 
 
 The ball play is efleemcd the mofL noble and 
 manly exercife. This game is exhibited in an 
 extenfivc level plain, ufually contiguous to the 
 town : the inhabitants of one town play againfl 
 another, in confequence of a challenge, when the 
 youth of both fexes are often engaged, and fome- 
 times (lake tlleir whole fubftance. Here they 
 perform amazing feats of flrength and agility. 
 The game principally confifts in taking and car- 
 rying off the ball from the oppofite party, after 
 being hurled into the air, midway betv/een two 
 hif^h pillars, which are ihc goals, and the party 
 who bears off the ball to their pillar wins the 
 game ; each perfon has a racket or hurl, which 
 is an implement of a very curious confhudion, 
 
 fomewhat 
 
XORTPI AMTRICA. 507 
 
 fomewhat refembling a ladle or little hoop-net, Avith 
 a handle near three feet in length, the hoop and 
 handle of vood, and the netting of tliongs of raw 
 hide, or tendons of an animal. 
 
 The foot-ball is likewife a favourite, manlv di- 
 verfion with them. Feaftim:!: and dancIn<T in the 
 fquare at cvennig, ends all their games. 
 
 They have befides, feafts or feftivals almoft for 
 every month in the year, which are chiefly dedicated 
 to hunting and agriculture. 
 
 The bufiv, or fcafl: of firfl fruits, is their princi- 
 pal feflival ; this feenis to end the lad, and begin 
 the new year. 
 
 It commences in Augufl, when their new crops 
 of corn are arrived to perfed maturity : and every 
 town celebrates the bulk feparately, when their 
 own harvefl is ready. 
 
 If they have any religious rite or ceremony, this 
 feflival is its mod folcnin celebration. 
 
 When a town celebrates the bulk, having pre- 
 vioufly provided themfelves wirh new cloaths, new 
 pots, pans, and other houlhold utenfils and fur- 
 niture, they collect all their irorn out clothes and 
 other defpicable things, fweep and cleanfe their 
 houfes, fquares, and the whole town, of their 
 filth, which with all the remaining grain and other 
 old provifions, they cafl together into one com- 
 mon heap, and confume it with fire. After having 
 taken medicine, and failed for three days, all 
 the fire in the town is extingulflied. During this 
 fait they abftain from the gratification of every 
 appetite and paluon whatever. A general amnefty 
 is proclaimed, all malefactors may return to their 
 town, and they are abfolvcd from their crimes, 
 
 which 
 
5o8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which are now forgotten* and they reftorcd to fa- 
 
 vour. 
 
 On the fourth morning, the high pried, by rub- 
 bing dry wood together, produces new fire in th© 
 public fquare, from whence every habitation in the 
 town is fupphed with the new and pure flame. 
 
 Then the women go forth to the harveft field, 
 and bring from thence new corn and fruits, which 
 being prepared in the bell manner, in various 
 difhes, and drink withal, is brought with folemnity 
 to the fquare, where the people are aifembled, ap- 
 parelled in their new cloaths and decorations. The 
 men having regaled themfelves, the remainder is 
 carried off and diflributed amongll the families of 
 the town. The women and children folace them- 
 felves in their feparate families, and in the evening 
 repair to the pubhc fquare, where they dance, fing, 
 and rejoice during the whole night, obferving a 
 proper and exemplary decorum : this continues 
 three days, and the four following days they receive 
 vifits, and rejoice with their friends from neigh- 
 bouring towns, who have purified and prepared 
 themfelves. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 509 
 
 c II A r. IV. 
 
 Coiicerning Propc ty, A gri culture. Art a, and Manu- 
 factures, 
 
 IT has been faiJ hv hiflorians, who have writ- 
 ten concerning the cuftoms and ufagcs of the 
 aborigines of America, that they have every 
 thing in common, and no private property ; which 
 are terms in my opinion too vague and general, 
 when appHed to thcfc people. From my own fre- 
 quent opportunides of obfervation, and the infor- 
 mation of rcfpeclable characters, who have fpent 
 many years amongfl: them, 1 venture to fet this 
 matter in a jufl view before my readers. 
 
 I (liall begin with the produce of their agricultural 
 labours. 
 
 An Indian town is generally fo. fituated, as to 
 be convenient for procuring game, fecure from 
 fudden invafion, having a large diftrid: of excel- 
 lent arable land adjoining, or in its vicinity, if 
 pofiible on an illhmus betwixt two waters, or 
 where the doubling of a river forms a peninfula. 
 Such a fituation generally comprifes a fulFicient 
 body of excellent land for planting Corn, Pota- 
 toes, Beans, Squafli, Pumpkins, Citruls, Melons, 
 he. and is taken in with a fmall expence and 
 trouble of fencing, to fecure the crops from the 
 invafion of predatory animals. At other times 
 however they choofe fuch a convenient fertile 
 fpot at forne difrance from their town, when cir- 
 cumftances will not admit of having both toge- 
 ther. 
 
 This 
 
5IO TRAVELS IN 
 
 This is their common plantation, and the whole 
 town plant in one vaft field together ; but yet the 
 part or fhare of every individual family or habita- 
 tion, is feparated from the next adjoining, by a 
 narrow Itrip, or verge of grafs, or any other na- 
 tural or artificial boundary. 
 
 In the fpring, the ground being already pre- 
 pared, on one and the fame day, early In the 
 morning, the whole town is fummoned, by the 
 found of a conch fhell, from the mouth of the 
 overfeer, to meet at the public fquare, whither 
 the people repair with their hoes and axes ; and 
 from thence proceed to their plantation, where 
 they begin to plant, not every one in his own 
 little diftrift, affigned and laid out, but the whole 
 community united begins on one certain part of 
 the field, where they plant on until finiflied ; and 
 when their rifmg crops are ready for drefling and 
 cleanfmg, they proceed after the fame order, and 
 fo on day after day, until the crop is laid by for 
 ripening. After the feaft of the bulk is over, and 
 all the grain is ripe, the whole town again affem- 
 lole, and every man carries off the fruits of his 
 labour, from the part firfl allotted to him, which 
 he depofits in his own granary ; v/hich is indivi- 
 dually his own. But previous to their carrying off 
 their crops from the field, there is a large crib or 
 granary, erefted in the plantation, which is called 
 the king's crib ; and to this each family carries and 
 depofits a certain quantity, according to his ability 
 or inclination, or none at all if he fo choofes : 
 this in appearance feems a tribute or revenue to the 
 mico ; but in faft is defigued for another purpofe, 
 i. e. that of a public treafury, fupplied by a tew 
 and voluntary contributions, and to which every 
 citizen has the light cf free and equal accefs, when 
 
 his 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 51I 
 
 Ills own private flores are confumed ; to ferve as a 
 furplus to Hy to for fuccour ; to affift neigh- 
 bouring towns, whole crops may have failed ; ac- 
 commotiate flrangers, or travellers ; afford provi- 
 fions or fupplies, Avhen they go forth on hoftile 
 expeditions ; and for all other exigencies of the 
 fiate : and tfiis treafure is at the difpofal of the king 
 or mico ; which is furely a royal attribute, to have 
 an exclafivc right an ability in a community to dif- 
 tribute comfort and bleffings to the neceifitous. 
 
 As to mechanic aits or manufadures, at prefent 
 they have fcarcely any thing worth obfervation, 
 fmce they are fupplied with necelTaries, convenien- 
 cies, and even fuperfluities by the white traders. 
 The men perform nothing except ere£l:ing their 
 mean habitations, forming their canoes, flone pipes, 
 tambour, eagles tail or Itandard, and fome other 
 trifling matters ; for war and hunting are their 
 principal employments. The women are more vi- 
 gilant, and turn their attention to various manual 
 employments ; they make all their pottery or ear- 
 then-ware, moccalins, fpin and weave the curious 
 belts and diadems for men, fabricate lace, fringe, 
 /embroider and decorate their apparel, Sec. kc. 
 
512 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Of their Marriage an! Funeral Ceremonies. 
 
 AS to their marriage ceremonies, they are very 
 fimple, yet differ greatly in the various nations and 
 tribes. Amongft fome of the bands in the Mufco- 
 gulge confederacy, I was informed the myftery is 
 performed after the following manner. When a 
 young man has fixed his affedlions, and is deter- 
 mined to marry, he takes a Cane or Reed, fuch as 
 they ftick down at the hills of their Bean vines for 
 their fupport : with this (after having obtained her 
 parents' or nearefl relations' confent) he repairs to. 
 the habitation of his beloved, attended by his friends 
 and aflbciates, and in the prefence of the wedding 
 guefts, he flicks his Reed down, upright in the 
 ground ; when foon after his fweet-heart comes 
 forth with another Reed, which fhe fticks down by 
 the fide of his, when they are married : then they 
 exchange Re'eds, which are laid by as evidences or 
 certificates of the marriage, which is celebrated 
 with feafling, muficand dancing: each one of their 
 relations aud friends, at the wedding, contribute 
 fomething towards eftabhfliing the new family. As 
 foon as the wedding is over, the town is convened, 
 and the council orders or recommends a new habi- 
 tation to be conflrufted for the accommodation of 
 the new family ; every man in the tov/n joins in 
 the work, which is begun and finiflied in a day's 
 time. 
 
 The greateO: accompllfhments to recommend a 
 young man to his favourite maid, are to prove 
 himfelf a brave v/arrior, and a cunning, induflrious 
 hunter. 
 
 They 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 5!^ 
 
 They marry only for a year*s time, and, accord- 
 ing to ancient cuflom, at the expiration of the year 
 they renew the marriage : but there is feldom an 
 inflance of their feparating after they have children. 
 If it fhould fo happen, the mother takes the chil- 
 dren, under her own prctetlion, though the father 
 is obliged to contribute towards their maintenance 
 during their minority and the mother's widow- 
 hood. 
 
 The Mufcogulges allow of polygamy in the ut- 
 moft latitude ; every man takes as many wives as he 
 choofes, but the firll is queen, and the others her 
 handmaids and aflbciates. 
 
 It is common for a great man amongil them, 
 who has already half a dozen wives, if he fees a 
 child of eight or nine years of age, who pleafes 
 him, and he can agree with her parents or guar- 
 dians, to marry her and take her into his houfe at 
 that age. 
 
 Adultery is always puniflied with cropping, 
 which is the only corporal punlflmicnt amonglt 
 them ; and death or out-lawry for murder ; and 
 infamy for lefs crimes, as fornication, theft, &c. 
 which produces fuch repeated marks and reflec- 
 tions of ridicule and contempt, that it generally 
 ends in voluntary baniflnnent ; and thefe renega- 
 does and vagabonds are generally the ruffians who 
 commit depredations and murders on the fron- 
 tiers. 
 
 The Mufcogulges bury their deceafed in the 
 earth. They dig a four-fquare deep pit under the 
 cabin or couch which the deceafed lay on, in his 
 houfe, lining the grave with Cyprefs bark, where 
 they place the corpfe in a fitting pofture, as if it 
 were alive ; depofiting with him his gun, toma- 
 L 1 hawk, 
 
5^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 hawk, pipe, and fuch other matters as he had the 
 greateft value for in his Hfe time. His eldeft wife, 
 or the queen dowager, has the fecond choice of his 
 poffellions, and the remaining effects are divided 
 amongfl: his other wives and children. 
 
 The Chaftaws pay their laft duties and refpeft 
 to the deceafed in a very different manner. As 
 foon as a perfon is dead, they erect a fcaffold eigh- 
 teen or twenty feet high, in a grove adjacent to the 
 town, where they lay the corpfe, lightly covered 
 with a mantle : here it is fuffered to remain, vi- 
 iited and protefted by the friends and relations, un- 
 til the fielh becomes putrid, fo as eafily to part from 
 the bones ; then undertakers, who make it their 
 bufmefs, carefully (trip the flefli from the bones, 
 wafli and cleanfe them, and when dry and purified 
 by the air, having provided a curioufly wrought 
 chefl or coffin, fabricated of bones and fpHnts, they 
 place all the bones therein ; it is then depofited in 
 the bone-houfe, a building erected for that purpofe 
 in every town. And when this houfe is full, a ge- 
 neral folemn funeral takes place ; the neareft kin- 
 dred or friends of the deceafed, on a day appointed, 
 repair to the bone-houfe, take up the refpedive 
 coffinG, and following one another in order of fe- 
 niorlty, the neareft relations and connexions at- 
 tending their rcfpeftive corpfe, and the multitude 
 following after them, all as one family, with united 
 voice of alternate Allelujah and lamentation, flowly 
 proceed to the place of general interment, where 
 they place the coHins in order, forming a pyramid*; 
 and laflly, cover all over with earth, which raifes 
 
 '' Some Ingenious men, ■whom I have convcrfed with, have given it a» 
 their opinion, that p.W thofc pyramidal artiikial hills, uiually called Indi-ui 
 mounts, were raifcd on thefe occafions, and arc generally fcpulchrcs. 
 However 1 am of a different opinion. 
 
 a conical 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 515 
 
 a conical hill or mount. Then they return to town 
 in order of folemn proceiTion, concluding the day 
 with a feilival, which is called the fcall of the 
 dead. 
 
 The Chaflaws are called by the traders flats, or 
 flat-heads, all the males havin'r the fore and hind 
 part of their fkulls artificially flattened, or com- 
 prcfled ; which is efl'ected after the following man- 
 ner. As foon as the child is born, the nurfe pro- 
 vides a cradle or wooden cafe, hollowed and fa- 
 fliioned, to receive the infant, lying profl:rate on its 
 back, that part of the cafe where the head repofes, 
 being faflnoncd iikc a brick mould. In this porta- 
 ble machine the little boy is fixed, a bag of fand 
 being laid on his forehead, which by continual 
 gentle comprcllion, gives the head fomewhat the 
 form of a brick from the temples upwards ; and by 
 thcfe means they have high and lofty foreheads, 
 floping off backwards. Thefe men are not fo neat 
 in the trim of their heads, as the Mufcogulges are, 
 and they are remarkably flovenly and negligent in 
 every part of their drefs ; but otherwife they are 
 faid to be ingenious, fenfible and virtuous men ; 
 bold and intrepid, yet quiet and peaceable, and 
 are acknowledged by the Creeks to be brave. 
 
 They are fuppofed to be mofl: ingenious and in- 
 dulbrious huibandmen, having large plantations, or 
 country farms, where they employ much of their 
 time in agricultural improvements, after the man- 
 ner of the white people ; by which means their ter- 
 ritories are more generally cukivated, and better 
 inhabited, than any other Indian republic that we 
 know of. The number of their inhabitants is faid 
 greatly to exceed the whole Mufcogulge confede- 
 racy, although their territories are not a fourth part 
 T 1 2 ai 
 
5l6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 as extenfive. It appeared to me from obfervatlon, 
 and what information I could get, that the Indians 
 entertained rational notions of the foul's immortali- 
 ty, and of a future ftate of focial exiftence ; and 
 accordingly, in order to inculcate morality, and 
 promote human happinefs, they applaud praife- 
 worthy adlions, as commendable and neceffary for 
 the fupport of civil fociety, and maintaining the 
 dignity and flrength of their nation or tribe, as 
 fecuring an excellent and tranquil date and degree 
 in the world of fpirits, after their deceafe. And 
 they fay the Great Spirit favours all good and brave 
 men. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 517 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Language and Manners. 
 
 The Mufcogulge language is fpoken throughout 
 the confederacy, (although confifting of many na- 
 tions, who have a fpeech pecuhar to themfelves) as 
 alfo by their friends and allies, the Natches, The 
 Chicafaw and Cha»5taw, the IVIufcogulges fay are 
 dialeds of theirs. 
 
 This language is very agreeable to the ear, cour- 
 teous, gentle and mufical : the letter R is not 
 founded in one word of their language : the women 
 in particular fpeak fo fine and mufical, as to repre- 
 fent the fmging of birds ; and when heard and not 
 fecn, one might imagine it to be the prattling ot 
 young children. The men's fpeech is indeed more 
 ilrong and fonorous, but not harfli, and in no in- 
 flance guttural, and 1 believe the tttter R is not 
 ufed to exprefs any word, in any language of the 
 confederacy. 
 
 The Cherokee tongue, on the contrary, is verv 
 loud, fomewhat rough, and very fonorous, found- 
 ing the letter R frequently, yet very agreeable and 
 pleafant to the ear. All the Indian languages are 
 truly rhetorical, or figurative, airifling their fpeech 
 by tropes ; their hands, flexure of the head, the 
 brow, in fhort, every member, naturally aflociate, 
 and give their aiililance to render their harangues 
 eloquent, perfuafive and eiTettual. 
 
 The pyramidal hills or artificial mounts, and 
 high-ways, or avenues, leading from them to ar- 
 tifical lakes or ponds, vafl tetragon terraces, 
 
 chunk 
 
5l8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 chunk yards *, and obelifks or pillars of wood, are 
 the only monuments of labour, ingenuity and mag- 
 nificence, that I have feen worthy of notice, or re- 
 mark. The region lying between Savanna river 
 and Oakmulge, Eafl and Weft, and from the lea- 
 coaft to the Cherokee or Apalachean mountains. 
 North and South, is the moft remarkable for thcfe 
 high conical hills, tetragon terraces and chunk 
 yards. This region was poffefled by the Cherokees, 
 fince the arrival of the Europeans, but they were* 
 afterwards difpoffeffed by the Mufcogulges, and all 
 that country was probably, many ages preceding 
 the Cherokee invafion, inhabited by one nation or 
 confederacy, who were ruled by the fame fyftem 
 of laws, cuiloms and language, but fo ancient, that 
 the Cherokees, Creeks, or the nation they con- 
 quered, could render no account for what purpofe 
 thefe monuments were raifed. The mounts and 
 cubical yards adjoining them, feern to have been 
 raifsd in part for ornament and recreation, and like- 
 wife to ferve fome other public purpofe, fmce they 
 are always fo fituated as to command the moft ex- 
 tenfive profpect over the town and country adja- 
 cent. The tetragon terraces feem to be the foun- 
 dation of a fortrefs ; and perhaps the great pyrami- 
 dal mounts, ferved the purpofe of look out towers, 
 and high places for facriiice. The funken area, 
 called by white traders the chunk yard, very likely 
 ferved the fame convcniency that it has been appro- 
 priated to it by the more modern and even prefent 
 nations of Indians, that is, the place where they 
 burnt and otherwife tortured the unhappy captives 
 
 * Chunk yard, a term given bj' the white traders, to tlie oblong four 
 fquarc yards, adjoining the high mounts and rotundas of the modem 
 Indians. — In the centre of thefe ftands the obclifk, and at each corner of the 
 farther end ftands a flave poU or flrong fiake, '.vhcrc the captives that are 
 iiirnt alive are bound. 
 
 that 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 519 
 
 that were condemned to die ; as the area is fur- 
 rounded by a bank, and fometimes two of them, 
 cne behind and above the other, as feats, to ac- 
 commodate the fpedators at fuch tragical fcenes, as 
 well as the exhibition of games, fliows, and dances. 
 From the river St. Juans, foutherly to the point of 
 the peninfula of Florida, are to be feen high pyra- 
 midal mounts, with fpacious and extenfive avenues, 
 leading from them out of the town, to an artificial 
 lake or pond of water ; thefe are evidently defigned 
 in part for ornament or monuments of magnificence, 
 to perpetuate the power and grandeur of the nation, 
 and not inconfiderable neither, for they exhibit 
 fcenes of power and grandeur, and mud have been 
 public edifices. 
 
 The great mounts, highways, and artificial lakes 
 up S. Juans, on the Fall fliore, juft at the entrance 
 of the great Lake George, one on the oppcfite 
 fliore, on the bank of the Little Lake, another on 
 Dunn's Illand, a Httle below Charlotteville, one on 
 the large beautiful ifland juft: without the Capes of 
 Cape George, in the fight of Mount Royal, and a 
 fpacious one on the Well banks of the Mufquiroe 
 river near New Smyrna, are the mod remarkable 
 of this fort that occurred to me ; but undoubtedly 
 many more are yet to be difcovered farther South 
 in the peninfiila ; however I obferved none Welt- 
 ward, after 1 left St. Juans on my journey to little 
 St. Juan, near the bay of Apalache. 
 
 But in all the region of the IMufcoguIge country. 
 South- Weft from the Oakmulge River quite to the 
 Tallapoofe, down to the city of Mobile, and thence 
 along the fca cofl, to the MiiTiflippi, I faw no figns 
 of mountains or highways, except at Taenfa, where 
 were feveral inconfiderable conical mountains ; and 
 
 but 
 
520 TRAVELS IN 
 
 but one inflance of the tetragon terraces, which 
 was at theApalachucla old town, on the Weft banks 
 of that river : here were yet remaining confpicuous 
 monuments, as vafl; four fquare terraces, chunk 
 yards, &c. almoft equalling thofe eminent ones at 
 the Oakmulge fields j but no high conical mounts. 
 Thofe Indians have a tradition that thefe remains 
 are the ruins of an ancient Indian town and for- 
 trefs. I was not in the interior parts of the Chac- 
 taw territories, and therefore am ignorant whether 
 there are any mounts or monuments there. 
 
 To conclude this fubjccl concerning the monu- 
 ments of the Americans, I deem it neceifary to 
 obferve as my opinion, that none of them that I 
 have feen difcover the leaft figns of the arts, 
 fciences, or architcdure of the Europeans or other 
 inhabitants of the old world ; yet evidently betray 
 every fign or mark of the moft diftant antiquity. 
 
 I 1^ D E X. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A GAVE vlvipara — — six 
 
 -^^ Alabama — — — 427 
 
 Alachua favanna — - ■— — 185 
 
 Alaomaha, voyage up tlie — — 47 
 
 — — — account of the — » — 51 
 
 Alligator Hole — — — 2^6 
 
 ' ■ battle with an — — 248 
 
 Alligator?, battle between two — _ 1 16 
 
 ■ author attacked by — — - 117, 123 
 
 ■ brood of, numerous — 124 
 — — — — nefts of — — — 125 
 
 ■ -old, feed on the young — 126 
 
 — — — — defcribed — — ib. 
 
 Amelia ifland — — 61 
 
 Amite river — «- 425 
 
 Ampelis garrulus — »— 296 
 
 Angelica lucida — — ^25 
 
 Animals and vegetables compared — x'lv 
 
 ■ general obfervation on — xvj 
 
 ati'eclions of — — xvii 
 
 • mental faculties of — xviii 
 
 ■ remarkable fragility of parts of 194, 276 
 
 influence of country on — 214 
 
 Annona. new fpecies of — 18, 169 
 Apalachucl.i — — ogi 
 Arum efculentum cultivated for food in Georgia and Flo- 
 rid;! _ — — — 46^ 
 
 Arundo gignntea — — 408 
 
 Afilus, various fpecies of — ^8? 
 
 Augufla, journey to — — . 28 
 
 ■ defcribed ^■- 3*» 3H 
 
 Author attacked by a fever — 409 
 
 ■' violent difordcr in the eyes 416, 418 
 
 Banks 
 
INDEX. 
 
 B 
 
 Banks of the river St. Juan higher than the adjacent 
 
 plains — — 165 
 
 Battle between cray-fifii and gold-fuli — 43 
 
 ■ ■ two alligators — 116 
 
 Bears — — — 278 
 
 Bee?, none in Weft Florida, though plenty in Eatt 411 
 
 Birds, obfervations on •— xxi 
 
 r — r- on the migration of —7 ,28.0, 295 
 
 I of paflage, American — 285 
 
 — — — change ihetr colour — — 296 
 
 . wild, fing only at the time of incubation xxii, 299 
 
 IVoat, portable — r— 457 
 
 Eream, golden — 151 
 
 — ■ ■■ great black or blue — 174 
 
 ■ " great yellow, or particoloured — ib. 
 
 Bridge, Indian — - — 443 
 
 Brunfwick, town of — 471 
 
 Buffalo, not now to be found where once numerous 44 
 
 Bull fmlce — — 272 
 
 Butterflies -_. — . ^— xix 
 
 C 
 
 Cacalla h.eterophylla — 162 
 
 CaiStus opuntia — — l6t 
 
 Cambekon — — 476 
 
 Cancer macrour.us, war of the gold-fifli on the 43 
 
 Cane nieadov/s, vaft — — 231 
 
 Carina Indica —7 — 424 
 
 Carica papaya — 1 29 
 
 <:_^at bird — -r- 297 
 
 Cattle, dreadful difeafe of — - 205 
 
 Cedar bird -r — '296 
 
 Chaftaws — , t— 5 ' 5 
 
 Chameleon -— — .27.6 
 
 I. harlefton, voyage from Philadejplua t(> - X 
 
 CharJotca — ' — 9^ 
 
 Chat, yellow breafted — 300 
 
 Chicken fnake — —,271 
 
 Clarendon river — 47 ^ 
 
 ClnV; fort of, taten greedily by caule •— 39 " 
 
 . Cleome 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cleoinfi luplnifolia — ^23 
 
 Clifi's, defcription of the — 433 
 
 Coachvvhip fnake — — 217 
 
 Cochineal infect — 161 
 
 Coliinfonia, fpeciesof, febrifuge — 409 
 
 Colynibu? Cauda elongaia — iyy 
 
 Convolvulus dilfedlus — — \oz 
 
 fCooIouie town — — 3C)4 
 
 Cornus florida — — 390 
 
 Cov/e — — 350, 364. 
 
 Coweta — i 38 7 
 
 Cow-pen, account of a — 308 
 
 Crane, ftight of the — — 144 
 
 ■ • nefts and eggs of the — 199 
 
 favanna — — 21 S 
 
 Creeks, Upper, alliance of, wiih the Engl illi 53 
 
 ' account of the — 208,463 
 
 •■ ■ ■ Lower, or Simi;ioIes — 209 
 
 Crofs-Creeks — — 475 
 
 Crown bird — 296 
 
 Crying bird — — 145 
 
 Cucurbita lagcnaria — 477 
 
 CuprefTus difticha — 88 
 
 ' new fpecies of — . 409 
 
 Curlews, Spanilh — 146 
 
 Cufcowilla, journey to — 16S 
 
 — — — — defcription of — i S9 
 
 Cyprinus coronarius — — 151 
 
 D 
 
 IDeer, herd of — -^^ 19S 
 
 Diona:a niiifcipufa — xiil, 470 
 
 Dog brought up to tend horfcs — 220 
 
 Dove, ground — — g 
 
 Dyeing, bark of the gordonia lafipnthus ufcful in 160 
 
 Eagles, various — — S 
 
 Earth, on the produce of the different 7ones of the ix 
 
 remarks 01; certain flrata of - 433 
 
 Elks only to be found in :hc Apaiachcan mountains 45 
 
 Emberiza ory?ivora * — 294 
 
 Fphenjer;« 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Ephcir.eroc - - - 78—81 
 
 Erythrvna corallodendrum - - 160 
 
 Faico plfcatorius - - - S 
 
 Falling Creek - - - 339 
 
 Fafcinating power of the r.ittlefnake - 263 
 
 Febrifuge virtues of a fpecles of Collinfonia - 409 
 
 Felis Cauda truncata - - - 278 
 
 Fern, curious fpecies of - - 476 
 
 Firti, red-belly - - - rz 
 
 — — — vaft quantity of, in the river St. Juans - 121 
 
 of prey and others living peaceably together in pellucid 
 
 vi^ater _ - - 164^ 166, 227 
 
 Fifhing, mode of - - - 106 
 
 Flat-rock - - - 374 
 
 Flie?, various fpeeies of * 383 
 
 Florida, journey to - ~ SS 
 
 ■■ Eaft, very good Indigo made in 75 
 
 Weft, journey to - - 373 
 
 Fort Moore - - - - 313 
 
 ' James - - 3** 
 
 — — Prince George Keowe - - 328 
 
 Fox _ _ _ - 278 
 
 — fquirrels - - 279 
 Fragility, extraordinary in animals - 194> 276 
 Franklinia Alatamaha - - 465 
 Frederica, town and fort of - . 60 
 ———. voyage to - - 3*^3 
 French fettlement - - 43^ 
 
 ■ broken up by the Indians, - 43* 
 
 Frogs, various fpecies of - - 272 
 
 G 
 
 Garr, great brown fpotted - - 173 
 
 Georgia, voyage to - - - 4 
 
 — iflands on the coaft of - 5> ^5 
 
 •' —————why thinly inhabited 64 
 
 Gerardea flammea - - 4'o 
 
 Glafs-fnake . - - - '93 
 
 Gold fiih, war of, on the cray fi(h - 43 
 
 ■ ■ defer i bed - . - - 44 
 
 Gopher - - - 18, 180 
 
 Gordonia 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Gordonia lafianthus - - ifg 
 Gourd, ufeful fpecies of - - 477 
 Gtape vines - - - 84, 398 
 Grapes, Indian mode of preferving - 308 
 Grafs, peculiar fpecies of - -128 
 Graves, Indian - - - i -ly 
 Green fnake - - - - 271 
 Grus pratenfis, flight of the - - iaa 
 ' nefts and eggs of the - iqq 
 ' defcribed - - - 218 
 
 H 
 
 Halefia diptera, variety of - - ^og 
 
 Half-way pond - - - j^^. 
 
 Hawk, iirtiing - - ,3 
 
 engaged with a fnake - - 216 
 
 '03 
 
 Hibifcu5, fpecies of - - ig^ 10,^ 
 
 coccineus 
 
 102 
 
 Hippobofca - - - - 78 z 
 
 Honefty, advantages of - - ■ 35 1 
 
 Horn fnake - - - 2jz 
 
 Horfcs, Siminole, of the Spaniili breed - 21* 
 
 • kept by a dog - . _ 22Z 
 
 -■■ large Itud of - - "351 
 
 ■ fondnefs of, for falc - - ,^ * 
 
 — fingular mode of taming - -.^^ 
 
 - flies extremely troublcfome to - 084 
 Hurricane - - - 139, 384 
 Hydrangia quercifolia - - _ ^gg 
 
 I 
 
 Indian pot, curious - - _ g 
 
 — — — interview with an - - 21 
 
 — ■ remarks on the moral principle of an - 22 
 
 people, a peculiar race of - - 2 c 
 
 towns, remains of - 37, 196, 343, 388 
 
 fagacity - - - 3,^ 
 
 mode of killing trout - - 44 
 
 village - - - 90 
 
 ' wife of a white man, mifcondud of an 109 
 
 ■ deferts the author - - - 11 » 
 
 — ceraetry - - - 137 
 
 Indian 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Indian chiefs 
 ■• . . . foup 
 
 towns - 189, 
 
 • piiniiLiTient for adultery 
 
 • public buildings 
 
 — — ^— antiquities - 322, 
 
 ■ feflivals 
 
 • towns and villages, lifts of 
 . lan'^ua^es 
 
 • wedding 
 
 ■ chief's revenge on a trader cauglit 
 
 wife 
 - ' ftandard -• 
 
 ■ painting and fculpture 
 
 ■ canoes 
 jelly 
 
 ■ niufic 
 
 i drinking boat 
 
 ■ women, artifice of 
 games 
 
 Indians, remarks on the 
 
 ■ - ■ ■ treaties with the 
 
 ■ ■ ■ food of 
 
 ' ■ plunder the (lores 
 
 • matters accommodated with the 
 
 ■ virtues of 
 
 ■ " ■ ■ veneration of, for the rattlcfnake 
 -^— — form of falutation amongft 
 
 vifu to the 
 
 ■—manners and cuftoms of the 
 
 189, 
 
 ^^5' ^I'yi l^^ 
 
 189 
 
 327, 348, 384, 394 
 
 211,446. 513 
 
 302, 365,448,452 
 
 365, 370,455. 519 
 
 233.367.449. 507 
 
 37 1 , 461 
 
 386,461, 463, 517 
 
 444. 5^ » 
 in adultery with his 
 
 446 
 453 
 454 
 225 
 239 
 24j. 503 
 
 253 
 254 
 
 506 
 xxiii, 184, 208 
 
 33.235 
 38 
 61 
 
 76 
 
 22, I 10, 208, 488 
 
 258 
 
 182 
 
 ib, 
 
 182, 184, 189, 207, 
 
 349. 367. 448. 
 
 365, 386, 395, 444 
 
 210 
 
 — habitations of the 
 
 — vices of the 
 
 — wars of the - 211,390 
 
 — migration of the - 378 
 
 — malfacre of the whites by - 388 mle 
 
 — roving difpofkion of the - 389 
 — . carry off" a party of emigrants 444 
 
 — murder fonie white travellers - 235 
 
 — hunting party of - - - -2.\x 
 
 — party of, in purfuit of an adulterer 24.3 
 
 — fondnefs of, for fpirits - - 253 
 
 — conference with - - 255 
 
 — perfons and qualifications of the - 481 
 
 — government and civil fociety of the 492 
 . — drefs, feafts, and diverfions of - 499 
 
 Indians 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Indians property, agriculture, arts, and manufa6hires of 
 
 the . _ _" 509 
 
 — — — marriage ceremonies of tbe - 512 
 
 ■ funeral ceremonies of the - 51 ^ 
 
 indigo, very good, made in Eaft Floritia - 75 
 
 Ipomea, fpecies of - - - 374 
 Iron ore - - 221,376,401 
 
 Iflands on the coaft of Georgia - 5> 65 
 
 »\vliy thinly inhabited 64 
 
 floating - - - 86 
 
 • in Lake George - - I op 
 
 Ifle of Palms - - : ^5S 
 
 J 
 
 Jelly, Indian - - - 239 
 
 Jorc mountains - - 360 
 
 Journey to Cufcowilla - - x68 
 
 -' - Talahafochte - 213 
 
 • from Charlefton to the Cherokee country 306 
 
 ■ over the Jore mountain - 357 
 ——— from Fort Charlotte to Weft Florida - 375 
 
 ■ fi'om Apalachucia to Mobile - 394 
 
 — • Savanna to Philadelphia - 467 
 
 juglans, manner in which the Indians ufe the fruit of a 
 
 fpecies of - " 3^ 
 
 K 
 
 Kalmia, new fpecies of - - 18 
 
 Keowe - - - - 32S 
 
 Lacerta, fpecies of « - 170, 276 
 
 Lake Ouaquaphenogaw - 24 
 
 George - - - - 99 
 
 Lantana camerara - - joi 
 
 Laurel magnolia - - - _ g^ 
 
 Lettuce, Indian - ~ , .^ 
 
 Liberty, obfervations on - - 184 
 
 Lime, wild - - 112 
 
 Li/ard, fpecies of - - 170,276 
 
 Lupin, fpecies of - irj 
 
 Lynx - - - 278 
 
 Magnolia, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 M 
 
 Magnolia, kurel — 83 
 
 __^_— peculiar fpecies of *- 159, 33S 
 
 ____—— grandiflora — 169 
 
 - auriculata — — 337 
 
 Malva, various fpecies of — 325 
 
 Manate Spring — — 228 
 
 Meleagris occidentalis — 14. 81 
 
 Mice, white — — 277 
 
 Milk, hiccory ^ — 38 
 
 Mimofa fenfitiva, new fpecies of — 24 
 
 . — virgata — — 419 
 
 ..„ , pudica — 428 
 
 Mifliflippi river — ' — 425 
 
 Mobile, journeyf rom Apalachucla to 394 
 
 ■ town of "— — 402. 
 
 Moccafin fnake — ^68, 269 
 
 Moral principle of an Indian, remarks on the ^z 
 
 Motacilla trochilus — — 300 
 
 Mount Royal — — 9^ 
 
 MudfiHi _ — 174 
 
 Mufcicapa vertlce nigro — -297 
 
 Mufcle, horned — — 43^ 
 
 Myrica inodora — 403 
 
 N 
 
 Natural produ£lions, obfervations on — x 
 
 New-Smyrna — — ^4* 
 
 Nymphaea nelumbo — 4^7 
 
 Nyfla coccinea — — *7 
 
 O 
 
 Oak, black — — 37 
 
 Ocean appears to have gained on the land of America 66 
 
 Oenothera grandiflora — - . """ ^^"^ 
 
 Oil, fweec, obtained from the fruit of the live oak 83 
 
 Olive, Indian — — 41 
 
 Palm tree — — : , " ^ 
 
 Palmetto 
 
IMDEX. 
 
 Palmetto rDyal — .^ g^ 
 
 Panicum hirtellum — 42 S 
 
 Parakeet — — 299 
 
 Pearl Ifland — 419 
 
 Pelican defcribed — 68 
 
 wood — — 149 
 
 Penfacola, account of — 413 
 
 Petrifaflions — — 473.475 
 
 Phyfic-nut — 41 
 
 Pica glandaria cerulea non criftata — ly© 
 
 Picolata, fort — — y8 
 
 Pigeon?, mode of catching — 467 
 
 Pine fnake — — 272 
 
 Piftia ftratiotcs — 8,6 
 
 Pitch, how made from tar — 417 
 
 Plains, barren — — 240 
 
 Plants various, obfervatioiis on — x 
 
 new — 16,31,393,415,434,465,466 
 
 Plum, new fpccies of — 421 
 
 Pot, Indian, curious — — 6 
 
 Prinos, curious fpecies of — 477 
 
 Pfittacus Carolinienfis — 299 
 
 Pceris Icandens — — . 276 
 
 R 
 
 Rana:, various fpecies of -«j- 27 1 
 
 Rat, large ground — — - 
 
 ——wood — — 122 
 
 Rattlefnake, veneration of the Indians for the 258 
 
 ■ — account of the — - 262 
 • — fafcinarcs its prey -— 262 
 
 ■ does no injury unlefs attacked 262, 264 
 — — — — — baftard, or ground — 270 
 Rhododendron, fpecies of «— 354. 
 Ribband fnake — —271 
 Rice, culture'of — it 
 Rice bird — — 
 River, remarkably clear — 
 Rjbinia, fpecies of — — 3^3 
 Ifocky point — — 166 
 Ruins, Indian •— 37, 53 
 ■■■ ' ■ of a French or Spanifh fort $z 
 
 Sage, tall blue — ,— ' 410 
 
 M m Saint 
 
 294 
 
 222 
 
INDfX. 
 
 Saint John's, voyage to — — . g'S 
 
 — — Juan, Little, river — 222 
 
 '"— Simon, account of the ifland of — 56 
 
 Salt, fondnefs of horfes for — ^54 
 
 Sarracenia flava — -^ xit 
 
 — — — — lacunofa — 41,^ 
 
 Savanna, journey from, to Augufta -« 28 
 
 Sea cow — -.— 230 
 
 Senfitive plant, new fpecies of ^— 24 
 
 ^.helly, folfile, hili of — 316 
 
 Silphium, fpecies of -«- — 306 
 
 Siuiinoles, account of the — * 209, 436 
 
 Sinica, town of -— — 327 
 
 Sink, Great — ;* 201 
 
 Slavery, obfervations on — 184 
 
 Slaves, on the treatment of — 309 
 
 ^imilax pfeudo-china ufed as food — 239 
 
 Snake, confli(St of a, with a hawk — 216 
 
 Snake bird — -— 130 
 
 Snake, various kinds of — 193,217,262—72 
 Soils, obfervations on 23, 29, 168, 397, 420, 429 
 
 Spanifli feitlement, remains of — 231 
 
 Squirrel, various fpecies of — 279 
 
 Standard, Creek — — i^q 
 
 Stores plundered by the Indians - - 6jl 
 
 Storm, thunder - - 13, 139, 341, 38^ 
 
 ' advantages of a 1— — 
 
 Sua fiih — -— 
 
 75 
 »5< 
 
 Taenfa — .— 
 
 Faenfapno river — 422 
 
 403 
 
 Talahafochte 
 
 224 
 
 Tallow nut — — 112 
 
 Tana^e, river — 337 
 
 Tantalus piffus -~ •» i^:^ 
 
 , -__albus — 146 
 
 • verficolor — — i^i, 
 
 • — loculator — 147 
 
 Teftudo plvphemus — j8, 180 
 
 nalo cylindraceo elongato — 175 
 
 ■ various fpecies of *— 277 
 
 '1 liunder ftorm . - 13,341 
 
 7"i}landfia lingulata - . _ .59 
 
 Tillandfia 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Tlllandfia ufneoides 
 Tortoife, great land 
 
 foft Hielled 
 
 — — various fpecies of 
 
 Travelling, mode of 
 
 Trour, American mode of catching 
 
 ■ — — defcribed 
 
 Turkc}-, American 
 
 8> 
 
 18, iBtj 
 
 277 
 
 438 
 
 106 
 
 X07 
 
 14, 8t 
 
 Uchc town 
 
 U 
 
 3SO 
 
 V 
 
 Verbena, fpecigs of 
 Vultur facra 
 ■aurea 
 
 454- 
 44S 
 T50 
 
 VV 
 
 Wampum fnake 
 
 .69 
 
 Wars of the Indians 
 
 21 1, 390 
 
 Water, hot mineral 
 
 M5 
 
 —— pellucid, curious bafon of 
 
 IKJy 163 
 
 
 i04, 223,244, 345 
 
 >^*-d'«f- avt tnt i/-\r\ rtf- 
 
 z^ 
 
 
 Wax tree 
 
 403 
 
 Whatoja, town of 
 
 348 
 
 White Plains 
 
 429 
 
 Wolf, narrow efcape from a 
 
 156 
 
 American 
 
 197, 278 
 
 Wrighifburough 
 
 3S 
 
 X 
 
 Xantlioxylum clava Herculis 
 
 Yucca glorlofa 
 
 69 
 
 Zamia piimila 
 
 160 
 
Directions to the BjneerJ 
 
 Place the Map at the beginning of the work. 
 
 — Plate I to face - - - p. i8 
 
 ■" ■ 2 to follow - - - pi. I 
 
 — — — 3 to face - * P- ^ 5 5 
 
 ~ 4 - . - p. 175 
 
 ^^ - . 176 
 
 . 6 - " - - - 380 
 
 7 - , ^ 4"4 
 
 /-Jr-