DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/worksopthedukery01whit M? r .M l Priory Gatehouse. Worksop JEtotttngfjamsfjtrc WORKSOP, i \ “€\st Sitktrtj/' AND SHERWOOD FOREST. ‘‘Out of monuments, names, wordes, proverbs, traditions, private recordes and evidences, fragments of stories, passages of bookes, and the like, we doe save and recover somewhat from the deluge of time .’'—Lord Bacon. Worksop : Robert White, Park Street. - i8 75 . Entered at Stationers' Hall. Robekt White, Printer, Worksop. sac w 5F7 W preface. HE appearance of the present volume is the accomplishment of an object which I have long wished to see realized, but which I had hoped would be taken in hand by someone more fitted for the work than myself. It has seemed to me that a district so interesting and beautiful as that of Worksop, had claims to be made known by the aid both of pen and pencil, more widely than it has been in previous publications. A complete history of Worksop is by no means attempted in these pages. In the prospectus which which was issued some months ago, only a brief notice was promised of the town and neighbourhood; of its long line of ancient lords ; of its ecclesiastical antece¬ dents ; and of its nearly forgotten antiquarian relics. In attempting to fulfil this promise, my aim through¬ out has been as far as possible to ensure correctness. By frequent visits to the British Museum, and by reference to other acknowledged sources of informa¬ tion, I have sought to verify every historical fact given, and I believe no statement of importance has been made without some competent authority having been consulted. 11. Preface. I have to regret that during the time this work has been in preparation, one whose friendly suggestions were always welcome, has departed to his rest. I allude to Mr. John Holland, of Sheffield, the genial and amiable author of the “History of Worksop a book published in 1826, but which during the life of its author was never sufficiently appreciated. To many helpers in the work my sincere thanks are due. Especially would I acknowledge my obli¬ gations to the Rev. J. Stacye, M.A., for his valuable assistance during the entire progress of the work, and for his admirable paper on “The Ancient History of Sherwood Forest.” I would express my thanks also to the Venerable Archdeacon Trollope, for the free use of his valuable paper on the monastic remains, for all his good wishes, and for the loan of the wood engraving of the Worksop Priory Gatehouse; to C. Tylden-Wright, Esq., for his valuable chapter on the Geology of the district, and for the section which illustrates it; to Cecil G. Savile Foljambe, Esq., for his novel and interesting chapter on the descent of the Nottinghamshire Dukes, as also for his elaborate pedigree ; and to Captain A. E. Lawson Lowe for his pedigree of the early Lords of Worksop. I would also thankfully acknowledge the kindness of William Howitt, in allowing me to make use of his chapter on Sherwood Forest in his work “ The Rural Life of England .” To W. J. Sterland, Esq., I am gratefully indebted for his interesting chapter on the Zoology of the Forest; to R. E. Brameld, Esq., for his valuable list of the Lepidoptera; and also to Preface. iii. my old friend Dr. Spencer T. Hall, “ the Sherwood Forester,” for recounting the glories of his native realm, “The Land of Robin Hood.” My old friends Christopher Thomson and Charles Reece Pemberton I cannot thank. They have passed away from this life. But their memories remain fresh in the minds of those who had the pleasure of their acquaintance. I never think of the latter without pleasurably calling to mind how he used to return from his rambles in the woods around Worksop, decorated from head to foot with ferns and evergreens. To Earl Manvers I am specially grateful for his kindness in granting me the use of the MSS. in his possession, and which are quoted in the following pages as the “ Thoresby MS.” To H. R. Gilson, Esq., I am thankfully indebted for his kindly arranging the papers of our old friend John Bohler, on the Flora of the Forest, and for his correcting the proof sheets of that chapter. I think the illustrations will commend themselves to persons of taste. I have adhered to no particular style, but have adopted that in each case which I thought would produce the best results. In connec¬ tion with these, my thanks are due to H. R. Page, Esq., for his skilful drawing on wood of the “ Old Ship Inn;” to Theophilus Smith, Esq., for his draw¬ ing on wood of the “ Servants’ Hall, at Rufford Abbey,” from a water-colour drawing by the late Christopher Thomson ; this latter drawing is in the possession of John Guest, Esq., of Rotherham, to whom my thanks are due for its loan. For the IV. ^tjeface. several drawings on wood by Mr. Sidney Starr, and for those of the Forest scenery by W. H. J. Boot, Esq., I also tender my thanks. My thanks are due and are cheerfully tendered to the Curators of the Bodleian Library, for their courtesy in granting me the use of the engraved plate in their possession, of the fac-simile of lease. The aid and countenance of so many able contri¬ butors give me the confidence to hope that the volume now issued will meet with the approval of the reader. That it may minister to the instruction as well as the gratification of those into whose hands it may fall, is my wish. How far this wish may be realized, I know not. I can only add, that I have done my best to render the work worthy of the perusal, and to make it a befitting companion of those who, when visiting Worksop and its neighbour¬ hood, may desire to know something of the past history of places, the beauties of which excite their present interest. Robert White. Worksop, December, 1874. V. Contents. CHAPTER. PAGE. I . — Introduction ------ 9 II .—The Ancient Lords of Worksop - - 13 III. —The Priory: Its Foundation and Dissolution 20 IV. — Worksop: Its early History and Present Aspect ------ 58 V .—The Manor House and Park - - -75 VI .—Hamlets in the Parish of Worksop - - 81 VII.— Clumber, and its Park - - - 105 VIII .—Steetley Church—Cresswcll and Markland Grips—Roche Abbey - - - 125 IX.— Welbeck, and its Park - - - - 137 X .—Thoresby . 153 XI. —Rufford Abbey - - - - - -164 XII. —On the Descent of all the Nottinghamshire Dukeries and the Families possessing them from one source, in the person of their commo 7 i Ancestress, the celebrated Elizabeth, Comitess of Shrewsbury - 17 1 XIII. —The Ancient History of Sherwood Forest - 183 XIV. —The Land of Robin Hood - - - - 219 XV. —Tributes to Sherwood Forest Scenery - - 239 XVI. —The Zoology of Sherwood Forest - - 265 XVII .—The Geology of Sherwood and the District - 293 XVIII .—The Flora of Sherwood Forest - - - 303 Appendix - - - - - - 329 Index ------- 339 VI. Illustrations. I’AGE. Priory Church, Worksop, The Gatehouse (Frontispiece) „ ,, West Doorway (Title Page) Map of the District ......... g Priory Church, Worksop, Remains of St. Mary's Chapel (Initial Letter) ...... io Pedigree of the Ancient Lords of Worksop . . . .18 Priory Church, Worksop, Exterior of .20 ,, „ Mutilated Monuments of Lord Thomas Furnival, “ the Hasty," Sir Thomas Ncvil, and Lady Maude Ncvil, . 31 ,, „ Interior of .39 „ ,, Ground Plan and Key . ' . .40 ,, „ Entrance to Cloisters . . . .48 ,, „ Roof of Archway of Gatehouse . . 56 „ .. Seal of .57 The Old Ship Inn, Worksop .74 Worksop Manor as it appeared in 1840, North View . . -75 „ Ground Plan of, as originally intended a . . 76 ,, Intended South and West Elevations * . . 77 „ 1761, (destroyed by fire). North View, Hclio- type from a scarce engraving by S. and N. Buck .78 Shircoaks Church .81 Facsimile of a Lease from the Prior and Convent of Wyrkesofip of the Graungc and Mannor of Schyroks, in Wyrkesopp, 1458 82 Old Carving at Osberton: The Assassination of Thomas a Beckett 104 Clumber . 105 Funeral Cists at Clumber (four engravings) . . . -115 The Cedars at Clumber .124 Steetley Church, Interior East .125 „ North-West .126 „ Architectural Details of .127 Crcsswell Crags .‘.128 a See Appendix, Worksop Manor.” Illustrations. Vll. PAGE. Roclie Abbey .......... 132 ,, Fragment from ....... 136 Wclbcck Abbey, before the alterations ..... 142 ,, “ Greendale Oak ”...... 152 Thoresby ..153 ,, “ Buck Gates .154 ,, Park, Avenue ........ 163 Rujford Abbey, Servants' Hall (Refectory of Original Abbey ? ) 170 Sherwood Forest, Marks found in Trees (three engravings) . 200 ,, “ Parliament Oak ”.203 „ Remains of Clipston Palace . . . .218 „ “ Major Oak ” ...... 232 „ “ Simon Forester Oak ”.238 „ View in, Road to Budby ..... 264 Geological Section of the District ...... 293 Pedigree of the Descent of the Nottinghamshire Dukes, in pocket at the end of book. WWITI'S SOUSE MAP AROUND WfflKJffJttP. JSir J V ’ • •..*rr CHAPTER I . Sntrnimrtion. able N all historical or topographical researches relat¬ ing to our towns, villages, orplaces of interest, our earliest author¬ ity is generally the Domesday book. Sir Henry Ellis , in his introduction to the study of that great survey, thus states its “ original uses and conse¬ quences.” “ By the completion of this sur¬ vey, the King acquired an exact knowledge of the possessions of the crown. It afforded him the means of ascertaining the military strength of the country, and it pointed out the possibility IO Introduction. of increasing the revenue in some cases, and of lessening the demands of the tax collectors in others. It was moreover a register of appeal for those whose titles to their property might be disputed.” We rarely hear this book mentioned, but our thoughts immediately revert to what must have been the aspect and condition of the country and its in¬ habitants, at the remote period at which it was com¬ piled. In regard to Worksop, how much the appear¬ ance of the country has been changed, when instead of the present highly cultivated fields and meadows a bleak and barren extent of sand presented itself, clothed with heath, gorse, fern, and stunted brush¬ wood, with here and there a range of noble forest trees growing in all the wild luxuriance of nature, undefaced by the hand of man, and tenanted by countless herds of deer and other noble wild game, rarely disturbed, because protected by penal statutes and harsh laws, which elevated above, and gave more protection to, the wild animal than the peasant. So severe and unjust were these laws, that the unauthor¬ ised slayer of a deer, a boar, or a hare was punished with the loss of his eyes, while the killing of a man could be atoned for by the payment of a moderate composition . 3 A few acres of land in the valleys or on the river banks gave the only token of cultivation and of the presence of man—a few miserable huts would be scattered here and there, with their little less miser¬ able inhabitants, who derived a scanty subsistence from their hard labour, and that too often mulcted by the rapacity and extortion of their superiors, whom no laws restrained, and with whom might formed the only code of right and wrong, and by whom they were considered in the light of mere beasts of burden • * a Humc y vol. i, (1811) p. 253. Also note to Raf>i?i y $ History of England, folio Ed., (1743) vol. i, p. 161. and formed for their sole use and pleasure . 11 His black bread, with which he might allay, but could scarcely satisfy his hunger, was seldom accompanied by anything more dainty; and many things which have now become necessaries of life, were to him either utterly unknown, or if known, unattainable . 15 Still more insecure was he from the grievous forays of the neighbouring barons and freebooters, to whom plunder was a speedier means of enrichment than the honest pursuits of industry. The law to him was a sealed book, and totally ignored his presence, except as mere property. Ignorant and degraded almost to the level of the beasts, aspirations or hopes of better days could seldom come across his mind ; tied to the soil, he lived and died, having rarely indeed left his native valley—all beyond being to him another world. After a time, a change comes over the scene; the axe and the hammer are heard sounding in the valley; a noble monastery rears its head, and the seeds of civilization and cultivation are spread around. An alteration and improvement of the poor man’s temporal condition ensues; though for some ages this was so small that it can scarcely be appreciated. Time passes on—the land is now more fully brought into cultivation—the hamlet slowly increases and becomes the village, and the village the town. The peasant delivered, at least in part, from the thral¬ dom of the lords, passes through a rough and stormy period, improving his condition by dint of hard and long-continued exertion, at times losing all he has gained : yet, nothing daunted, he fights the battle ft “ It is now the fashion to place the golden age of England in times when the noblemen were destitute of comforts the want of which would be intolerable to a modern footman, when farmers and shopkeepers breakfasted on loaves, the very sight of which would raise a riot in a modern workhouse, when men died faster in the purest country air than they now die in the most pestilential lanes of our towns, and when men died faster in the lanes of our towns than they now die on the coast of Guiana.” — Macauley's History of England, vol. i, p. 424. b Rapin , vol. i, p. 161. I 2 Introduction. over again, and at last his persecutors acknowledge him as worthy of equal laws and privileges with themselves. 8 Civilization advances, tranquillity reigns, commerce extends, education is found to be a necessity, and now the groundwork on which the present greatness of the country is based is laid. Changed indeed is the scene ; where sterility was, now all is richly culti¬ vated ; where ignorance was, now intelligence abounds. In the Domesday book, Worksop, or Werchesope, is referred to as a manor in the wapentake of Berncse- delawe, or hundred of Bassetlaw, as it is now called. Doubtless it has claims to far higher antiquity, but documentary evidence appears to be wanting to establish the fact. In this valuable national record, which was compiled between the years 1080 and 1086, the following in substance is said respecting the place. “ In Werchesope, (Worksop) Elsi (son of Caschin) had three carucates of land to be taxed. Land to eight ploughs. Roger has one plough in the de¬ mesne there, and twenty-two sokemen who hold twelve oxgangs of this land, and twenty-four villanes and eight bordars having twenty-two ploughs, and seven acres of meadow. Wood pasture two miles long and three quarentens broad.” In the time of Edward the Confessor this was valued at eight pounds; when the Conqueror’s survey was made, seven. “ In Rolneton (now Rayton) near Worksop, also of Roger de Busli’s fee, were two Manors before the Conquest, which Elsi and Alchill had, and paid the geld for one carucate,” &c., &c. a “ The condition of the peasant had been gradually elevated. Between the aristocracy and the working people had sprung up a middle class, agricultural and commercial. There was still, it may be, more inequality than is favourable to the happiness and virtue of our species, but no man was altogether above the restraints of law, and no man was altogether below its protection .”—Macaulcy s History of England, vol. 1, p. 24. CHAPTER II. €\i Intent IA nf ttfnrkanp. |HE lordship of the Manor of Worksop was successively held by the De Buslis, De Lovetots, Furnivals, Talbots, and Howards. With the Talbot family commenced the earldom of Shrewsbury, and the lineal connection was kept up for nearly seven hundred years. We may notice briefly a few of the incidents connected with this ancient line of nobles. he Uobftot was the founder of the Mon¬ astery of Worksop, and probably of the Parish Church, at Sheffield. This Church was at that time connected with the religious establishment of Work¬ sop. He was succeeded by his son, Mtcijath he ILobetOt, who was visited by King Stephen, at Worksop, in 1161, where he confirmed a benefaction of Malgerus de Rolleston to the Monas¬ tery at Rufford. This Richard was succeeded by his son, fflffiltUiam he Ilobctot, who married Maud, daughter of Walter Fitz-Robert, of the noble house of Clare. He was probably the founder of a hospital for the sick at Sheffield, dedicated to St. Leonard. He died between the 22nd and 27th years of the reign of Henry II., leaving a daughter, Maud, who was married to ©etarh he jFurnfhal, a Norman knight, son of another Gerard de Furnival, who was with Richard I., i4 ^5he Ancient Lords of Mot;h$op,, &c. at the siege of Acre. The precise time of the union does not appear; but by it the lordships of Hallam- shire and Worksop came into the Furnival family. Connected with the history of this Gerard, we may add that “whilst the eldest branch of De Lovetot ended in a female heiress, there was another branch still existing, which sprung from the first William, by his younger son Nigel.” When the father of Maud died, the rights of this branch were vested in Richard de Lovetot, who seems to have acquiesced in the transit of the great property of the family to his cousin, her husband, and her issue. This Gerard went to Jerusalem, and died there in 1219. He was succeeded by his son, CfjOIMS tie jfutntbal, who was slain in Palestine, where he was buried, by his younger brother and companion, Gerard, who subsequently returned thither, and brought back his remains, which were interred in Worksop Church. His mother, who was then living, gave to William de Furnival, her youngest son, her Manor at Gringley, and the mill at the same place to the Convent “ for the benefit of his soul.” Gerard, brother to Thomas, was also buried at Worksop. <£crartl tie Jpunttfial, son of Thomas, succeeded his father, and dying without issue was succeeded by his brother, 2Tf)0«ta£l lie dfFurntbal, and he by his son, Cfjtmtas, Hortl jFuintbal, who became a favourite with Edward the First, from whom he obtained the grant of a market and fair at Worksop, in the 24th year of that monarch’s reign. This Thomas, Lord Furnival, died in 1332; his second wife, who had Worksop, among several other valuable estates, for her dowry, died in 1354, when they again reverted to the family of Furnival. 2rj)mnas f tfje sccontj Eorti jFutmbal, died in 1339; ^he Ancient J^ot;ds of IMoJihsop, Nc. 15 he was buried at Beauchief, near Sheffield, and was succeeded by his son, Cfjontas, Hot!* dFutntbal, surnamed the “ Hasty,” who was with Edward the Third at the battle of Cresscy in 1341: he died in 1366, and his brother, ioth jFurntbal, became heir, in whom the direct male line terminated in 1383, leaving a daughter, j$tian tie jTurmbal, who married Sir Thomas Nevil: on her death he married Ankarat, who had been married to Richard, Lord Talbot. He died in 1406, and was buried in the Priory Church, at Worksop. Sir Thomas Nevil, Lord Furnival, had one daughter by his first wife, Maud de Nevil, who transferred the estate into another family by her marriage with Wolfit ^TalllOt, first Earl of Shrewsbury. He was a famous warrior, the hero of Shakespeare’s play of Henry Vi., part I, and was killed at Chatillon on the 17th July, 1453. It is said that his sword was found many years after his death in the river Dordan, near Bordeaux, having on it this inscription:— Sum Talboti. M. IIII. c. XLIII. Pro vincere inimico meo. gfoljn ATaUJOt, the issue of his first marriage, suc¬ ceeded to the title as second Earl of Shrewsbury: he was a warrior, and fell in the battle of Northampton July 10th, 1460, and was buried at Worksop. In this year, and a few days before the great battle of Wakefield, there was a fight or skirmish at Worksop, which appears to have been omitted by all the chroniclers, with the exception of William of Wor¬ cester. He states that “the Duke of York, with the Earl of Salisbury, and many thousand armed men, were going from London to York in December, 1460, when a portion of his men, the van, as is supposed, $he Ancient Lor^s of Moijssop, &c. 16 or perhaps the scouts, to the number of * * * were cut off by the people of the Duke of Somerset, at Worksop. The John Talbot last named was succeeded by his eldest son, gfofjn GTalbot, third Earl of Shrewsbury, “ He was more devoted to literature and the muses than to politics and arms.” He died at Coventry in 1473, and was buried in the Lady Chapel, at Worksop. His son and heir succeeded him, as (StOtge Calfiot, the fourth Earl of Shrewsbury. In 1530 Worksop was visited by Cardinal Wolsey, when he was on his way to Cawood, in Yorkshire, as will be seen by the following extract from “ Caven¬ dish s Life of Wolsey.”—“ Then, my lord, (i.e. Wolsey), intending the next day to remove from thence (New- stead Abbey) there resorted to him the Earl of Shrewsbury’s keeper, and gentlemen, sent from him, to desire my lord, in their maister’s behalf, to hunt in a parke of their maister’s, called Worsoppe Parke.” At the latter end of this year, 1530, the Earl of Northumberland, Shrewsbury’s son-in-law, was sent to arrest the Cardinal at Cawood, and deliver him into the custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury. He arrived at Sheffield Manor on Tuesday, November 8th, and remained sixteen or eighteen days, and then proceeded to Leicester Abbey, where he died. This Earl of Shrewsbury died July 26th, 1531, at Winfield Manor, and was buried at Sheffield. He was suc¬ ceeded by his son, by his first wife, jFrartetS 2Talbot, fifth Earl of Shrewsbury, who was born at Sheffield in 1500. Henry the VIII. said of him, “ He is a gentleman, wise, and of good coor- age.” He was a great favourite with Henry VIII., and received from him considerable grants of Abbey lands, including the site of the dissolved Monastery of Worksop, which was founded by his ancestors. (|5he Ancient Lorjls of Morjtsop, ,&c. 17 He died September 21st, 1560, at Sheffield Manor. His son, by his first wife, now became his heir, who was (©forge Caltot, the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury. The memoirs of this illustrious personage are intimately connected with a deeply interesting, though melan¬ choly event in English history, the imprisonment of the beautiful and talented Mary, Queen of Scots, who was placed by Elizabeth under his care. It would occupy too much room to speak of her history further than as it is connected with the history of this place. There appears no doubt as to the fact that while under Shrewsbury’s care “ she was allowed to visit Shrewsbury’s seat at Worksop.” The Talbot papers contain a letter to Baldwin, dated Nov. 3rd, 1583, denying that while the Queen was at Worksop she was permitted to walk in Sherwood Forest. (Talbot Papers, vol. G. f. 225.) There is also a letter of hers preserved in Labanoff’s collection dated from Worksop, Sept. 3rd, of that year. This noble lord died at Sheffield Manor November 18th, 1590. The title and inheritance then descended to his eldest surviving son, ©llfiftt Calfiot, seventh Earl of Shrewsbury. On the death of Queen Elizabeth, James VI., of Scotland, was named as her successor, and the proclamation was signed by the Earl of Shrewsbury. Worksop being in a convenient line for the Royal progress, the Earl wished to entertain him, and addressed the fol¬ lowing letter to his agent, “John Harpur, Esq.— “Mr. Harpur, yt maye be I shalbe verie shortly in the cuntrie, & perhaps may be soe happie as to entertaine the Kinge our sovaigne at Worsupp. I would entreate you to lett all my good friends in Derbyshire and Staffordshvre know so much, to the end that I may have theire companie against such tyme as his Ma tie shall come thither. I know not how soone. If yt soe hap as I shall know w ,h in a few daies the certaintie ; but then yt wilbe to late for your horses or anie thinge else to be prepared, unless you prepare them presently i8 ^he Ancient £>otitl$ of Moiibsop, 2fec. upon the receipt hereof. All things heere are well, & nothinge but unitie & good agreement. God continue yt. Amen, Amen. “ At my chamber in Whytehalle Pallace, this 30th of Marche, beinge Wednesdaie at night, in verie great hast 1603. “ Your frende, most assured, “GILB. SHREWSBURY. “ I will not refuse anie fatt capons & hennes, partridges, or the lyke, yt the King come to mee. “G. SH. “ To my verie goodfriend, Mr. John Harpur , Esq. % at Swarston, dd.” On the 5th April, 1603, the King left Edinburgh, and arrived at Worksop on the 20th, as will appear from the following brief account of his reception, by a contemporary writer :—“ The 20th day, being Wed¬ nesday, his Majesty rode (from Doncaster) towards Worstop, the noble Earl of Shrewsbury’s house; and at Batine (Bawtry) the High Sheriffe of Yorkshire took his leave of the King, and there Mr. Askoth, the High Sheriffe of Nottinghamshire, received him, being gallantly appointed both with horse and man ; and so he conducted his Majesty on till he came within a mile of Blyth, where his highness lighted, and sat downe on a banke side to eate and drinke. “ After his Majesty’s short repast to Worstop his Majesty rides forward; but, by the way, in the Parke he was somewhat stayed, for there appeared a number of huntsmen, all in greene, the chief of which, with a woodman’s speech, did welcome him, offering his Majestie to show him some game, which he gladly condescended to see ; and, with a traine set, he hunted a good space, very much delighted : at last he went into the house, where he was so nobly received, with superfluitie of all things, that still every entertainment seemed to exceed other. In this place, besides the abundance of all provision and delicacie, there was most excellent soul-ravishing musique, wherewith his highness was not a little delighted. “ At Worstop he rested on Wednesday night, and in the morning stayed breakfast; which ended, there prtHffrrf °f tfir carlo Horns of CHorhsop nnn tfjrir Descendants. Comfitut by Captain A. E. La _ _Hunter- /MmiI/it, Ibirkc • Ft limit rirrmfr,~ froaifb'. "Xrfuliltnl *uaLubtu». Viuccrmn ti Huntington. anno I 0 M. • ) Manor of Workup, and otbrr plaoeal. *e ° “ ,0 f * ’ U> lir( buaband the g Kt»p>i»o,-O«ni», *»">««<•» book a. a Hunter minarlui that " arm- tbo aarno ... n .... u*"^ 0 L..W1..U, Ibr |, oll .*^^H^^ *»^ »y | |y | ^ » luPeof K.lear.1 III . f..r J.«n de HoOBto!a.?^«Sil2SBI^f lb! lb*..™, " '. LUI i "" uV '’ “ J ■-«.Uo t ku m.u In U.. optBlon nf IS'iM^SSrSf:' h ,““S ... . . P, *‘ r " °> '»< ■“'<> Lord, .! w«l„, „J ad, J„„nd.,„ y ?—f.or»»ri irof ITunllnir.lonehlfo. ■wu.rzu.XSsrar; ■.■nl.a^midTo'nirn^i’in^rt’Hr Wl " 1 "' 11 wrtaUon tout offn*land, tbo It-.lT'of C.rla»o"’”j tr *• In many plaoea ab. ro their icuin lay — -.'•rlrli* .'.Tl'un,[ 'i!",'" '' ".T l, " 1 !."f Oerlaion.ok, ani.u i vai "' h*’ ^''b-bewdllan Inelvnla of the K ^'rV' o'f* 1 6 I ^ V ? ^ r* 1 * u “ f> ' and r»bot«« „. „„v O . . . "orTlllo, a poaorfiil f-„.|,i ,.., . > "ane de Uorrlllo Ida wlfr, yminroal dauablvr an.l do luaitii^ rt, ‘"' "■*' UlU W,ll, " n J " lunntal bat adiu.M^^! found..! up!, n f^ L UOte } «u*ut»r, uamod llnlewyn, »bo au manrte.1 lo Knalaeo . w „. w ^ „. b „ ^ ^ ^he Ancient Lot;ds of Morjisop, .Sc. J 9 was much store of provision left, of fowle, fish, and almost every thing, besides bread, beere, and wines, that it was left open for any man that would, to come and take.” On the demise of this Earl, 8th May, 1616, without surviving male issue, the title became the inheritance of his only surviving brother, 3Stltoattl tETalfoot, the eighth Earl of Shrewsbury, who had married Jane, eldest daughter and co-heir of Cuthbert, Lord Ogle. This Edward died without issue February 8th, 1617, when the Shrewsbury title passed to a distant relative, George Talbot, Esq., of Grafton, in Worcestershire. dje I^OlBathS.—On the death of Edward, the eighth Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1617, the title, it is seen, went to a distant relative; while the principal part of the property, including the ancient Baronies, descended to three surviving daughters of Gilbert, the seventh Earl. Lady Alethea Talbot was the youngest daughter, and Queen Elizabeth was her godmother; she married Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, Surrey, and Norfolk, himself Earl Marshal of England, only son of Philip, Earl of Arundel, and grandson of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of Elizabeth respecting Mary, Queen of Scots. From this it will be seen how the illustrious family of the Howards became possessed of Worksop Manor, and of the other ancient estates of the Lovetots, Furnivals, and Talbots. The Lord- ship of the Manor of Worksop continued in this family through a long series of years, pregnant with many of the most interesting and important facts connected with the history of England, until it was sold to the Duke of Newcastle in 1840, with whom and his representatives the lordship of the Manor has since been vested. CHAPTER III. CjjB ^rinrij: its /nnnktinn nnii feolntiaE. HE most prominent feature connected with the early history of Worksop was its Priory, which, however, shared the fate of all similar institutions. The precise date of its founda¬ tion appears to be involved in some little obscurity, but 1103 is most probably the correct date. It was founded by William de Lovetot, and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, a with whom St. Mary was afterwards associated for the use of canons of the order of St. Augustine. The canons of this house, agreeably to the Augus¬ tine rule, had to live in common, “ having nothing proper to themselves,” to be chaste, and to keep their cloisters, though not so strictly as the monks proper; close study was also enjoined and preaching. The dress of this order was a long black cassock, with a white rochet over it, and above that a black cloak and hood. The monks shaved, but the regular canons wore their beards, and had caps on their heads. With the kind permission of the venerable Arch¬ deacon Trollope , in our account of the Priory we shall largely avail ourselves of an able paper prepared and read by him at the meeting of the Lincoln Dio- cesian Architectural Society at Worksop in i860. In one of the Cotton manuscripts is a project in Henry VIII.’S own hand-writing for erecting new ft St. Cuthbert was the sixth Bishop of Durham, and died at a great age, in 686. Friory Church, Worksop. h e # r\ i o t]y . 21 episcopal sees, entitled “ Byshopprykys to be new madeand therein three places in Nottinghamshire are bracketed together as being worthy of that honour, viz., Welbeck, Thurgarton, and Worksop. This selection was no doubt made from the size and character of the monastic churches then extant in each of these places ; but judgment was never actually given in favour of any of them. The existing church of Worksop is only a portion of a former one, con¬ stituting scarcely more than half of the original struc¬ ture, while even this is of more recent date than the church first erected on its site ; and yet this fragment is so beautiful that it is hoped a further notice of the principal personages connected with its history, as well as of its architectural features, will be acceptable. As, however, it would perhaps be confusing to inter¬ mingle these two subjects in the real order of their succession, it is proposed to give, first, an outline of that noble series of Lords of Worksop as the chief benefactors of the Priory ; and then to treat of the Architecture of its Church. As we have seen from an extract from Domesday, Elsi, son of Caschin, was the chief Saxon proprietor at Worksop before the Conquest. His estates were given by the Conqueror to that enormous participator in the spoil of England, Roger de Busli, whose chief seats were at Blyth and Tickhill, and who was lord of 174 manors in Nottinghamshire alone. Early in the reign of Henry 1., William de Lovetot had be¬ come possessed of a portion of De Bush’s estates, viz., those of Hallam, Atterclifle, Sheffield, Grimes- thorpe, Grasborough, &c., in Yorkshire ; and also that of Worksop® and others in Notts. In addition to these he had acquired some of the lands of the fee of Robert, earl of Morton, after its division between n. Termed Wirchesoj>e in Domesday Book, and spelt thus variously by different old authors— Wyrksoppe, Wirkensop, IVtrc/tesop, 22 §5 he Nigel Fossard and Richard de Surdeval. Previously, William de Lovetot was possessed of a barony in Huntingdonshire, which he eventually left to his second son Nigel; but how he acquired his vast estates in Notts, and in Yorkshire is uncertain. The house of Lovetot proved itself worthy of the great power and wealth it enjoyed. Sheffield was in¬ debted to them for its church and its first hospital for the sick, dedicated to St. Leonard, that stood on Spital-hill until it was swept away by the ravages of Henry the Eighth. Ecclesfield and Bradfield also saw churches arise, it is probable under their jurisdic¬ tion and with their assistance. The church of Shef¬ field, with one-third of its tythes, was given by them to the Priory of Worksop, the other two-thirds of the tythes, with the church of Ecclesfield, and also, it seems, that of Bradfield to the alien abbey of. St. Wandrille. 1 William de Lovetot the elder also made a grant of land in a remote portion of Ecclesfield parish, for the benefit of a recluse, whose hermitage was dedicated to St. John. This grant was amplified by Richard de Lovetot; but on the death of the above- named recluse, the hermitage was given to Kirkstead abbey in Lincolnshire, by Richard de Lovetot, for the benefit of his wife’s and his son William’s souls> But the greatest work of piety and munificence on the part of the Lovetots was the foundation of Work¬ sop Priory, and its subsequent enlargement. It was founded by William de Lovetot the first, and the purport of the charter is as follows:— a This, if not literally, is virtually correct as regards Bradfield, which always went with Ecclesfield, although a charter of Gerard de Fumival seems to have given it to Worksop Priory. b The Coat of this family, spelt Lovetoft , Liivetoft, Louvetot , as well as Lovetot, was A rgent, a lion rampant , parti per fesse gules and sable, according to Dods- worth ; but the field was occasionally or. The site of the castle at Worksop, formerly inhabited by the De Lovetots, is indicated by the mound, once surmounted by its keep, situated on the west side of the town. ^ h e $ t[ i o q y. 2 3 “ Be it known to T. Archbishop of York, the Arch¬ deacon of Nottingham, and to all the barons, clergy, and laity, French and English, in all England, and Nottinghamshire, that William de Lovetot, by the concession and consideration of Emma, his wife,"and their sons (or children), grants and confirms by his breve (or writing) the donation which he made to God, the holy church, and the canons of St. Cuthbert, of Worksop, in perpetual alms. In the first place, the whole chapehy of his whole house, with the tythes and oblations ; then the Church of Worksop, in which are the said canons, with the land and tythes, and all things belonging to the said church; moreover, the fish pond and the mill, which are near the said church, at Worksop ; and all that meadow, which is by the mill and fish pond ; likewise all the tythes of the pence of all his settled revenues, as well as in Normandy as in England ; at Inward, in the field of Worksop, one carucate of land ; and his meadow of Cratela ; and all his churches of his demesne of the honour of Blythe, viz., the churches of Gringley , of Mistcrton, of Walkeringham, of Normanton, of Colcs- ton, of Willoughby, of. Wishou, and his part of the church of Tyreswell, with all lands, tythes, and things belonging to the said churches; likewise the tythe of his pannage, and of honey, and of venison, of fish, and of fowl; of malt, and of all other things of which tythes are wont and ought to be given. And he wills, and firmly grants, that the aforesaid canons may truly and peaceably, freely and honourably, hold all these things, with all the liberties and free customs with which he himself holds them. This grant is witnessed by Egero Sacerdote, Wulveto Sacerdote, Ilberto Scriptore, Rogero de Lincolnia, Edone Dapi- fero, Erturo Praeposito, Wigero de Sancto Albino, Cont. de Shefeld, Gilberto de Gatef (ord ?) Rogero de Sayendale.” 24 ^he tfqio i;y. He was buried on the north side of the Priory- church, on the lowest step leading to the high altar ; and is thus gratefully spoken of by Pigot :— “ Therefore in speciall, certes we arc bounde To pray for his sonic, and his successors.” The second great benefactor of Worksop Priory was Richard, son of William de Lovetot, who first confirmed his father’s grants in favour of this house, and then added several valuable gifts of his own, viz.: half of the Church of Claverburgh (Clarborough), two bovates of land in Herthewic (Hardwick), the land formerly belonging to Wolnet the priest and Hugh, his brother, the whole site of the town to Worksop, near the church inclosed by its great ditch as far as Bersbrig (or Bracebridge) meadow, also without the ditch, a mill, dwelling-house, and Buselin’s meadow, besides lands in another direction partly bounded by crosses set up by himself and his son, a mill and pond at Manton, and all Sloswick. He also confirmed the grants made by his mother Emma to the Priory, viz.: a mill in Bollam, a bovate of land in Shireokes, and other lands described as lying between the bounds of Thorpe and the river along the way leading from Staveley as far as the water of Holmcar (now constituting Shireoaks park and some adjoining land), Hayton, Rampton, and Normanton, four bovates of land in Tuxford, the church and two bovates in Colston. He further granted to the canons of Worksop Priory the privi¬ lege of feeding their pigs in Runwood, and of keeping two carts in his park at Worksop for the purpose of collecting all the dry wood that might be found there. Finally, he confirmed the grant of land in Thorp, made by Walter de Haier, and conceded by his son Roger de Haier. ?phe 2 5 The deed embodying all these valuable gifts to the Priory he laid upon the altar of its church, with the consent of his son William, in hope of thereby benefitting the souls of his father and mother, the founders, his own, and those of his son and all his relations—living and dead. This grant was addressed to all “ the sons of holy church, present and future.” His wife Cecilia, as her offering to the Priory, pre¬ sented to it the church of Dinsley in Hertfordshire. Richard de Lovetot was buried in the church he had aided to endow so richly, near his father, and a little below his grave; a “ white ” stone (probably marble) marking the exact spot of his burial. The grants to the Priory were confirmed by a Bull of Alexander III., dated at Agnani, ii. kal. Feb. 1161, and by others of Plenry I. and Edward II. The above-named Pope, in the same Bull, accorded the following privileges to the canons of Worksop, viz., exemption from tithes, the presentation to their churches, the right of burial at their pleasure to all persons, except to those who might be excommuni¬ cate, leave to celebrate Divine Service during seasons of general interdict upon certain conditions, and free¬ dom of election with regard to the Priors, 0 but reserv¬ ing the rights of the mother or parochial church— “ Salvd tamen canonica justicid matricis ecclesice et parochialium ecclesiarum de quibus mortuonim corpora assumunticr The third benefactor of the House was William de Lovetot, son of Richard and Cecilia; who, on the day of his father’s burial, gave to God, St. Mary, St. Cuth- bert, and the canons of Radcford or Worksop, the tithes of all the rents he then had or ever should have, whether on this side of the sea or beyond it. He did not long enjoy the possession of his inherit- a Dugdale’s Monasticon, vol. 6, p. 118. 3 26 t§ h c 1? t; i o i; y . ance, dying in 1181. He was buried in the Priory church, below his father, apparently, “ next the neder gree on the said payment ,” as Pigot informs us. The second William de Lovetot’s early death led to a great change in the fortunes of his inheritance, for, by his wife Matilda, daughter of Walter Fitz Robert, (and through her mother nearly related to the great house of Clare) he left an only daughter, then seven years of age. She was committed to the charge of Ralph Mur- dac, the sheriff of the county; and in due time the youthful heiress was given in marriage, by Richard I., to Gerard, son of Gerard de Furnival, one of his dis¬ tinguished crusading followers, who was present at the siege of Acre. That lion-hearted monarch does not appear to have exacted any fine in return for this favour; but his ignoble successor, John, afterwards demanded of the elder De Furnival a sum of four hundred marks for acquiescing in the marriage, and consequent transfer of the Lovetot estates to the house of Furnival. Eventually, however, from De Furnival’s valuable services at the battle of Mirabel, and his giving up to the king a prisoner he had taken, Conan de Leon by name (whose ransom had been fixed at four hundred marks), the fine demanded by the king was remitted. But Gerard had another claimant to meet in the person of his wife’s cousin, Nigel de Lovetot, who disputed his right to the property of the De Lovetots. Richard de Lovetot, the heir male of the family on the death of the second William, had allowed his estates to pass to Maude his daughter and her husband ; but Richard’s brother and heir, Nigel, was not so accommodating; and the question between him and De Furnival was only to be settled by the payment of a large do?iccur to the king, consisting of the concession of his rights in the town of Newport, ^ h e U? tj i o t] y . 27 and the gift of fifteen palfreys and a thousand pounds; after which the De Furnivals remained in undisputed possession of the De Lovetot estates for a period of one hundred and eighty years. The first De Furnival benefaction to the Priory consisted of Gerard’s grant of pasturage for forty cows in Worksop Park, from Easter until Michael¬ mas, for the benefit of his mother’s soul—Andel, or Andeluga—and that of his brother Geoffrey, &c.; Gerard also gave the chapelry of Bradfield to the Priory. He was a firm follower of king John, in gratitude perhaps for the concession he had made to him, although upon rather costly terms. He was sent by that king from Oxford to treat with the barons ; and when John was besieged himself, in the Tower of London, both Gerard de Furnival and his castle were in great danger from the support he had given to the royal cause. Shortly after, he was com¬ manded to retire with his family to Bolsover castle, probably for his better security as well as that of the castle. After the death of John, Gerard went to Palestine, where he died, 1219; whence his body was brought for burial to Evrard, a small village between Dieppe and St. Valery, in Normandy, on his estate of Fournevall. a Thomas, the eldest son, also fell a victim in the same cause. He was slain by the Saracens, probably in the great battle of Damietta, and was buried on the spot by his brother Gerard who accompanied him; but on his return home, in answer to the pleadings of his mother, he once more sought his brother’s grave, and brought back to England his remains, which were buried on the north side of Worksop Priory church, probably next below William de Lovetot the second, a Of Fournevall in Normandy, according to Pigot , a manor near Dieppe; the name of Lovetot however was not extinguished by this marriage, as it was still borne by Nigel, the second son of the first William de Lovetot, and transmitted to his descendants. 28 ^he J? jj i o t| g. his grandfather. 0 No cost was spared upon the adorn¬ ment of his tomb and effigy, which last is thus spoken of by Pigot: “ With his helm on his liedc will enquere With precious stones sometyme, that were sett sere, And a noble Charbuncle on him doth he here." His brothers, Gerard and William de Furnival, were also buried in the Priory church, as we find from the same authority: “ S y . Gerard on the south side under a merbill stone Next St. Peter's Chapell is beried also, And Sr. William ther brother both flesh and bone In our Lady Chapell was beried even tho.” His monument was of freestone, bearing this in¬ scription : “ Me memorans palle, simili curris quia calle, De Fournivalle, pro Willielmo rogo psalle." He left means for the supply of five candles, to be kept always burning before the altar of the Lady Chapel in which his remains were deposited. Molde, or Matilda, de Furnival was during the early part of her widowhood engaged in disputes with the canons of the Priory, and especially with Prior Walter, so that she only gave them a mark from her mill at Worksop, yearly, for a pittance, on the anni¬ versary of her husband’s death ; but in 1249 she had received back the offending Walter into her favour, and then confirmed all the grants of her family, to which she added fresh gifts, viz., a wood in Worksop, of the extraordinary name of Staddeburgchaocd, all the land she had in Wellum (Welham), and other a He made various small grants to the Priory, viz., Ten marks a year from a mill, and the pasturage of two hundred sheep, &c. See “Carta Regis Henrici pro im- munitate Tolnetti, &c.” Monastic on, vol. 6, p. 121. ^hc 3 ?t|iotiy. 2 9 property in Gringley, &c. She is consequently highly praised by the Priory metrical chronicler, Pigot , who says of her:— “ Goode Molde was bcryed most principall Above Sr. Thomas Ncvill afore the liyc autcre, For a goode doer most worthie of all That indued this place; and her husband in fere To reherse what she did, dyvers things sere As expressed is afore, it wolde take long space, Bot in Hcvcn therfore we trust is there place." Gerard de Furnival, the next lord of Worksop, gave the third part of his mills in Bradfield, with the suit of his men of the sok of Bradfield to the Priory. He was buried under a stall in St. Mary’s chapel, with only a portion of his tombstone exposed to view. He was succeeded by his brother Thomas, who confirmed the above-named grants, as did his son Thomas; to which was added £4 a year by Bertha, widow of Thomas de Furnival, for her life, from the same mills at Bradfield. But yet the Prior of Work¬ sop was compelled to bring a lawsuit against this Thomas, for making such waste and havoc amongst the timber of the park, as to prevent the supply of dry wood for the use of the canons, granted to them by his ancestor Gerard. In 1270 this Thomas had licence granted to build a castle at his manor of Sheffield, and agreed with the canons of Worksop to provide him with the ser¬ vices of two chaplains and a clerk at his castle, to whom he engaged to pay five marks a year as their remuneration. He died about 1279, and his body was supposed to be discovered in the foundations of Sheffield castle when it was demolished ; and a slab above a stone coffin was said to have been disclosed, bearing the following inscription :— 3 ° £ ILorb dFurntbal £ built tip's ulastle tjall unbcr tfjts ball S23ttf)ttt tf)ts tomb toas mg burial. But this epitaph has clearly been greatly tampered with, even if such a slab was really found at all. He was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Furnival the third, who was the great man of the family. He was the first of them summoned to Parliament as a baron of the realm from 22nd Edward I., 1294, to the 6th Edward III., 1332 when he died, though it ap¬ pears by an inquisition held by royal appointment 19th Edward II., that he was not really a baron, as he held none of his lands by baronial tenure. He was a considerable benefactor to Worksop, to which he procured a grant of a market and fair, or rather, it would seem, a confirmation of those which already existed. This grant bears date 24th Edward I., and was renewed by succeeding sovereigns, it states that the market is to be held on Wednesday and the fair on the eve, the day and morrow of the Feast of St. Cuthbert (the patron saint of the Priory), and on the five following days. This Thomas was twice married first to Joan, daughter of Hugh de Spencer, and secondly to Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Peter de Montford, widow of William de Monticate. He died in 1332. He was succeeded by his son, the fourth of the same name. This Thomas did not long suvive his father, and never enjoyed the Worksop estate, as that together with several other manors was settled upon his father’s second wife, who lived long after her hus¬ band, having died in 1354 and was buried in Christ’s Church, Oxford, where her tomb still exists. He married Joan, daughter and co-heiress of Theobald de Verdun, of Alveton Castle. He died Oct. 14th, ^he fftjiotiy. 3 1 1339, and was buried in Beauchief Abbey. His only transaction with the canons of Worksop was the com¬ mutation of his tithes from the manor of Sheffield, for a fixed annual money payment to the Priory, agreed on by both parties in 1328. He left two sons—a fifth Thomas, surnamed “ The Hasty” and William. The former was liberal towards the Priory, but in what way is not recorded ; Pigot merely saying of him, “ Which Thomas, sterne and right hasty man, The hasty Fournivall, but he was good founder To the place of Wyrksoppe." He was buried in 1366 on the north side of the Priory Church, above the high choir. The upper portion of his effigy in alabaster is still preserved in Worksop church, but in a mutilated condition. Round the conical bascinet of the period a rich garland was carved, part of which still remains, and on the jupon may be traced the Furnival bearings. Tufts of foli¬ age enriched the edge of the slab on which the effigy reposed, and angels supported the cushion beneath its head. This monument is described by Gough, but not correctly. Thomas, having no issue, was succeeded by his brother William, 8 he died April 12th, 1383, leaving, by Thomasia his wife, an only daughter and heiress, Joan, married to Sir Thomas Nevil brother of Ralph, 1st Earl of Westmorland. William, the last male heir of the Furnivals, b was buried on the south side of the a “This William” says Dugdale, “permitted the Pale of his Park at Wyrksop to be so defective that divers of the King’s deer out of the Forest of Sherwode com¬ ing freely into it were destroyed. For which respect William de Latimer, warden of the Forests beyond Trent, seized it into the King's Hand, but not long afterwards upon payment of twenty pound Fine he had pardon for that offence.”—“ Pat. 46, E. 3, p. 2, m. 10.”— Baronage , vol i, p. 727. b Their name however is still preserved by the site of their town-residence, viz., “ Furnival’s Inn,” in Holborn ; and their heraldic bearings, also, the present occupants of their London house having adopted their coat, viz., Argent, a bend gules between six marlets of the same, with the addition of a border gules. The Furnival crest was a horse’s helmet, with a plume of three feathers, or. 32 £jjhe 3? i] i o t| y. Priory church, above the high choir, and opposite his brother Thomas. Sir Thomas Nevil was summoned to Parliament as Lord Furnival in right of his wife. He embraced the cause of Bolingbroke against Richard II., and was made Treasurer of England ; to him also was entrusted the two-fifteenths granted by Parliament to Henry IV. for the defence of his government. He bequeathed his body to be buried in the Priory church of Worksop, “without any great pomp,” leaving £40 to the fabric of its tower or towers, and the rents of certain lands in Worksop for the purpose of keeping his obit wtth “placebo ” and “ dirige” annually, and for a Mass of “ requiem ” on the following day. He died in 1406, and was buried beneath a stately alabaster monument above the high choir, Pigot saying, “ And Sr Thomas Ncvill Treasorer of England , Aboven the quere is tumulate, his tumbe is to see In the middes, for most royall there it doth stand." A part of the effigy from this monument still exists at Worksop, but in a more mutilated state than that of Thomas, Lord Furnival. It has the same camail and gussets of mail, the same bascinet, and enriched hip sword-belt; but the head in this instance reposes on a tilting helmet. On the jupon is indicated the saltier of the house of Nevil, with a martlet as a mark of difference. His wife Joan, who died previously, viz. in 1395, was buried on the left side of her hus¬ band and near him. Her monumental slab is now in Barlborough church, and still retains a portion of its inscription. In 1707, as stated in “Church Notes,” written by Bassano the herald painter of Derby, in that year, it ran thus:— 1 facet .gjoijamta fit.fjacr.JlSJtlltelmt jFourntbal. Cfjo.” In the dexter chief corner was a saltier the arms of Nevil, in the sinister those of ^ho iot]y. 33 Furnival; and at the bottom of the monument these two coats were impaled together on an es¬ cutcheon, supported by two talbots collared and belted.® It has been suggested with much probability by Hunter, in his “ History of Hallamsliire p. 57, that Judge Rodes, who was seneschal to the Earl of Shrewsbury at the time of the Reformation, might have obtained this monument from the Priory church when it was in ruins, as an interesting memorial of one of that family from whom his patron had inherited a vast estate; and that he carried it off to the church at Barlborough, in which parish his newly acquired estate was situated. On the death of Thomas Nevil, Lord Furnival, the Worksop estates passed away to another noble family, that of Talbot; Sir Thomas Nevil’s only daughter Matilda (by Joan, the Furnival heiress), having pre¬ viously married John, the brother of Gilbert, Lord Talbot. In her right he was summoned to Parliament as Baron Furnival, in 1409. Afterwards in 1442, for his great military services he was created Earl of Shrewsbury, by Henry vt., and Earl of Waterford in 1446; he was also made a Knight of the Garter, High Steward of Ireland, Marshal of France, and by his father Lord Chancellor of Ireland. By Shakespere he was termed u the great A hides',' and by others “the scourge of France',' from his long and usually successful services in that country, on the part of England; but he was at length slain there at the siege of Chatillon, July 17, 1453, in the 80th year of his age; and was buried at Whitchurch. His wife Matilda was buried in Worksop Priory church : “ In Saynt Mary Chappell tumulate lyeth shec Afore our blessed Lady, next the stall side There may she be seene, she is not to hyde." >' The Furnival arms are still visible : the impaled coats gone. 34 he r *l»o Hy. He was succeeded by his son John, the second Earl of Shrewsbury, who was a faithful adherent of the house of Lancaster. He was with his father both in France and Ireland. In the 35th Henry VI., anno. 1456, he was made Lord Treasurer of England. He fell at the battle of Northampton, July 10th, 1460, and was buried in the chapel of St. Mary at Worksop, between the alter and the tomb of his mother, and willed “ that his executors make a tomb for him accord¬ ing to the exigency of his state'.' 8 The said tomb was accordingly erected, and thus inscribed— SEPULCHRUM MAGNANIMI ATQUE PR/E- potentis Domini Johannis de Talbot comitis Salople secundi, ex regio sanguine ducentis originem. Qui Henrico regi fidissimus bello apud North amptoni am gesto, ante sign a STRENUE PUGNANS, HONESTA MORTE OCCIDIT DIE DECIMO JULII ANNO DOMINI NOSTRI JESU CHRISTI 1460; CUJUS ANIMAS PROPITIETUR DEUS. Amen. Salopice comitis lapis hie tegit ossa yohamtis, Cui nihil antiquius, quam fuit alma Jides. Hanc ut servaret regi tormenta subivit, Intrepidus ferri, sanguineamque necem. Ergo licet parvum condat sua viscera saxum, Virtus Angligenum lustrat in omne solum. John, the son of the late earl, succeeded to his titles and estates. He was born on the vigil of St. Lucy, the virgin and martyr, 1448, when one of the canons of Worksop professed to have heard a voice saying, Gloria in excclsis Deo et A ngelisp He was a poet, and addressed one of his pieces in French to a His Will is given in Test. Eborac. ii., 252. made just before setting out for Ireland, as may be gathered from its preface:—“ Proponetis iter facere versus fartes Hibertue condo testamentum meum in hunc modutn(See Tome, 1269, York Minster.) b Dugdale's Monasticon, vol. 6, p. 124. ^he ftqiotpj. 35 Margaret of Anjou ; but he was early called to arms, having been at the second battle of St. Albans when only fourteen years of age, on which occasion he was knighted by Prince Edward. He fought for the house of Lancaster under the Earl of Warwick, and died at Coventry, June 28th, 1473, at the early age of twenty- five ; but his body was brought thence to Worksop, and buried in St. Mary’s chapel. By his wife, Catherine, daughter of Henry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, he had a son George who succeeded him as the fourth earl, and who stood in high favour with Henry VIII., to whom he presented several pieces of plate in token of his gratitude. 1 He married Anne, daughter of William, Lord Hastings, and was visited by Wolsey at Worksop, in 1530, on his way from Newstead Abbey to Cawood. He died July 26th, 1538, and was buried at Sheffield. He was succeeded by his son Francis, as fifth earl, who was also highly esteemed by his sovereign, and received from him a grant of the site and precincts of Worksop Priory, its houses and lands, &c., shortly after the dissolution of monastic houses, in exchange for the manor of Farnham, on condition that he, the earl, should provide a glove for the sovereign’s right hand at coronations, and should support it while he held the sceptre, by the service of a tenth part of a knight’s fee, and by a yearly payment of ^23 8s. od. He married Mary, daughter of Thomas, Lord Dacres, and died at Sheffield, Sept. 21st, 1560. Besides grants of lands and other benefactions re¬ ceived from the ancient lords of Worksop Manor, the Priory here was gradually enriched by gifts of lands, a “ Item a Salt of gold, fagot facion chased, gone to the kingis grace by therle of “ Sherewesbury (weighing) ix oz. £ : Item, iij spones of gold wt wrethen stilys and “ Roses red and white at thende geven to the kingis newyeres gift by therle of “Sherewesbury (weighing) x oz. d qrt.” (Henry vm’s Jewel-book , by Sir Henry IVyatt, keeper of the jewels ; a manuscript now in the possession of his Grace the Duke of Portland , at Welbeck Abbey.) 3 6 tj5hc JS'jiioJiy. houses, mills, and money-payments, from other per¬ sons, most of whose names have been lost. From these it finally possessed a net income of ,£239 15s. 5d. at the time of the suppression, according to the Valor Ecclcsiasticus, 26 Henry viir. There were also many benefactors to the fabric of the Priory church, whose names have perished, such as the founders of St. Peter’s chapel, and St. Cathrine’s chantry; but that of the St. Leonard’s chantry founder is preserved, the following being an extract from “ Torre, 1258,” in St. Mary’s tower at York. “ 2 d Id. March, AD. 1300. “The Archbp. of York confirmed the chantry which “ William Pelliparius de Radeford on the feast of St. “George (April 23 d ) 1300, erected for one secular “ priest to celebrate divine service for ever in the “ parish church of Worksop, at the altar of St. “ Leonard, for the soul of himself when he dyes, and “ for the soul of Elene his wife, &c. And for holding “ the same he gave to the ministery of the altar one “ silver chalice gilt, 2 whole vestments, one Festivall, “ the other Feriall, and other ornaments of the same “ altar.’’ pnm nf ^nrksnji. TEMP. ELECTIONIS. AUTHORITY. Anno. Mense. William* . Xl8o - Tanner. Stephen circa 1196 - Ibid. Henry . . 1200 - Ibid. Walter de Leirton • 1233 - Ibid. Robert de Pikeborn • 1253 — Ibid. John . . 1260 - Ibid. a We learn from Leland's Collectanea that the first Prior of Worksop was William de Huntingdon ; a very interesting fact, as showing the close connexion of William de Lovetot with the Priory of St. Mary, Huntingdon, and giving strong support to the opinion that the Eustachius, Vicecomes, of Domesday, who is recorded to have refounded that Monastery, was the first of the Lovetots settled in England, and pro¬ bably, the father of William de Lovetot. $he Pijiotpj. 37 TEMP. ELECTIONIS. AUTHORITY. A nno. Metise. Alan de London . 1279 - MS. Harl., 6972. fol. 7. John de Tikehill . 1303 2 Non Nov br Ibid. Robert de Carleton 1313 xi Kal April. Ibid. Johannes .... 1396 - Torre, 1268. Roger de Upton . - Tanner. John de Laughton 1404 22 d April. M S. Harl., 6969. fol. 88. Carolus Flemyng . circa 1457 - Tanner. Will Acworth, Prior de Felley 1463 xi ,u Octr. Torre, 1268. Robert Warde Robert, or Thomas, Gateford, 1485 ? - Ibid. Prior de Felley 1518 13" 1 July. Ibid. Nicholas Storth Thomas Stokkes, or Stokke, 1522 14 th Feby. Ibid. Prior of Felley . circa 1535 — Willis’ Mit. Abb. who surrendered the Priory to King Henry, Novr. 15th, 1539 vol. 2, p. 170. He and the fifteen canons who then belonging to the Priory, and whose names are subjoined, sub¬ sequently received the following pensions, according to a pension-book of the period, now in the Augmen¬ tation Office, and quoted in Diigdalds Monasticon, vol. vi, p. 124. Thomas Stockes, Priori . 1“ Willmus Nutt . . vi 1 '. Thomas Richardson . . v u . vi s . viii d . ‘ Willmus Yngrame . v n . vi s . viii d . George Copleye . vj 1 '. Ricus Astelye . . vj 11 . Laurenc Starkbone . . v H . vi s . xiii d . Alexandre Boothe v 1 *. vi s . viii d . Thomas Bedall . v u . vi s . viii d . Georgius Barnesley . . v u . vi s . viii d . Edmundus Robyneson . v u . vi s . viii d . Jacobus Wyndebank. . iiij u . Robtus Hermystede . . iiij 1 '. Johnes Hailes . . ... xl 3 . ... Chroferus Haslame . . ... xl s . Willmus White . ... xl*. ... Thomas Crumwell. 3§ (§>he Jj^ioiiy. Among the other donations of William de Lovetot to the Priory, was that of the church of Worksop in which the canons were, with its lands, tithes, and other things pertaining to the said church. This grant would convey the patronage of the church with all its revenues, in fact appropriated it absolutely to the use of the convent, leaving the canons to provide for the spiritual wants of the parish: which, in the first instance, they would do by one or other of the brethren, or their nominees taking the duty, accord¬ ing to their convenience. Such a system, however, was soon found to be very unsatisfactory, and parishes appropriated to monastic bodies were much neglected: it was, therefore, decreed that in all such cases a permanent Vicar should be appointed with a regular endowment. The catalogue of Vicars of Worksop is given below, it begins as early as AD. 1276. The old Vicarage house was a straggling dilapi¬ dated building which adjoined the east side of the Priory Gate-house. It was pulled down about sixty years ago, and the present one built. Catalogs nf tfaars nf SBnrksnp. (Torre, 1258.) INSTITUTED. VACATED. PRESENTED BY Dom*. Alanus de London : Id. Aug. 1276. — The Prior & Con- Fr. Adam de Rodesham, vent. Can. de W : . .5, Id. Feb. 1300. — Do. Fr. Rob' de Beverlac, Can. de W : . . . .4, Kal. Oct. 1324. m. Do. Fr. Will'de Hanay, Can : . 14, Kal. Mar.1328 r. Do. Fr. Ric de Trent, Can : . 17th April, 1358. r. Do. Fr. John de Stanelay, Can : 24th Nov., 1390. r. Do. Fr. Thos Barneby, Can : . 3d Dec., 1405. — Do. Fr. Walter Burne, Can: . r. Do. Fr. John Howe, Can : . 12th March,1450. r. Do. PARISH CHURCH.WORKSOP $he Jftjioijy. 39 Fr. John Emlay, Can : Fr. Walter Burne, Can : Fr. Thomas Ingill, Cap: D ns Thos Scott, Pbr : . Fr. John Johnson, Can : D ns John Thornley, Pbr : John Goodriche, Cl : . Richard Bernard, Cl: Olyver Bray, Cl: Wil” Carte, Cl: M.A. Sam 1 Smyth, Cl: B.A. Walter Bernard, Cl: . Sam 1 . Buckingham, Cl. M.A Thomas Calton . Jacob Calton John Cook . John Ward . Hon bIe Philip Howard Thomas Carter . Thomas Stacye, M.A. James Appleton, M. A. Edward Hawley, M.A. m. per mort. INSTITUTED. VACATED. BRESENTED BY 27th Aug., 1452. The Prior & Con¬ vent. - m. Do. 15th March, 1472 m. Do. 18th March, i486 m. Do. 24th Sept., 1519. r. Do. 6th May, 1544. m. Henry VIII. ult. May, 1577. 19th June, 1601. 16th Feb., 1613. 19th April, 1615. 22d May, 1628. c. Assignees of Rd. Whalley, Esq. c. Rd. Whalley, Esq. m. Ibid, c. Ibid — Fr. Rhodes, Esq. 15th Sept., 1662. m. Guardian of Sir Fr. Rhodes, Bart. 19th March,1673 m. W m Bishop of Lincoln. - 1685. - 1698. -•’ 1718. - 1758- - 1778. - 1783. May 1792. April, 1847. Sept., 1870. m. Sir M. Rhodes, Bart. — T.WentworthEsq m. Marq. of Rocking¬ ham, c. Do. m. Earl Fitzwilliam. m. Duke of Norfolk, m. Dukeof Newcastle Trustees of the late Duke of Newcastle. r. per resig. c. per cession. t &rrfjttecture of its ©ijurcfj. Part of the original endowment of the Priory was the Parish Church of Worksop—probably a, compara¬ tively speaking, small Norman edifice, terminating in an apse at its eastern end. This must have been rebuilt, or at least remodelled, when William de Lovetot founded his establishment of Augustine Canons at Worksop, but yet not without some re¬ servation in favour of the parishioners. 40 £j5he Jpt|ioiU). Not long after, this church was incorporated into, or exchanged for, another of far larger dimensions, erected at two different, but not widely separated, periods, the evidences of which still exist. Of the first period are the two most eastern pillars, and also some features of the south-western angle of the now detached Lady Chapel; of the second, the greater portion of the existing fabric. The former were a part of a second greatly enlarged church, erected no doubt by the aid of Richard de Lovetot the son of the founder, who, there is reason to suppose, com¬ menced the rebuilding of the same about 1150—60, to which date the earlier features of the existing edifice belong. He appears also to have re-dedicated the church to the Virgin as well as to St. Cuthbert, judging from the evidence of his son William’s con¬ firmatory charter, wherein we for the first time find the name of St. Mary, coupled with that of St. Cuthbert, in connexion with the Priory. (Dtigdalc, vol. 6, p. 119.) And there would be reason for this; for, when the church was enlarged, it was doubtless found convenient to take that opportunity of appor¬ tioning one part of its area to the parochial use, and the other to that of the canons. On this occasion, either from the original dedication of the old parish church, or from a new preference, the people of Worksop might wish to hear their portion of the new fabric at least called by the name of St. Mary, while the canons would naturally wish to retain that of St. Cuthbert. An interval then elapsed before the works con¬ nected with the church were resumed, as intimated by its architectural testimony, almost the whole of the present fabric being of the last quarter of the 12th century, and probably of the date 1170—80, when William de Lovetot the second, son of Richard, was lord of Worksop, and almost as surely the great Plan of THE PRIORY CHVRCH, OF S.S.MARY.& CYTHBERT, WORKSOP Key to J?lan of Moijfssop Ufqiotiy. A Choir. B Central Tower. C Transepts. D St. Mary's Chapel. E St. PeteT's Chapel (?). P Nave—The Parish Church. G Parish Choir. H St Katharine's Chantry. I St. Leonard’s Chantry *?). K Western Towers. L Groined Undercrofts, of what were probably apartments connected with the Prior’s lodgings. M Cloister. N Well. O Refectory, with kitchens, &c. P Chapter house. Q Prior’s lodgings. R Great western doorway. S Small do. a Choir. b Original wall of separation between the Monastic and Parish Churches, c Step, d Screens. e Upper Canons’ entrance, f Oaken door, g Remains of screen, h Late Tudor window, i Locker. j Priors’ & Canons’ entrance to Parish Church, k Piscina. 1 Southern doorway, m Porch, n Stoup. o Doorway, p Passage, q Existing wail. 1. 'William de Lovetot. 21. L[iahard de Lovetot. 3. William de Lovetot 2nd. 4- ‘Thomas de Furnival. §. G-erard de Furnival, his brother. 6. William de Furnival 1st. 7 . J/Laude de Furnival. 8 . Gerard de Furnival. 9. Thomas, Lord Furnival “the hasty ” 10. William, Lord Furnival, his brother. 11 Joan JTevil. 121. Sir Thomas JTevil. 13. JlatildaTalhot, 1st Coun¬ tess of Shrewsbury. lj.. John, 2nd Earlof Shrews¬ bury. 15. John, 3rd Earl of Shrews¬ bury. 16 Francis Olipsby. ^he Ip t; i o t] y . 4i promoter of, if not the actual builder of this fine fabric. Then certainly, if not before, a separation of the area of the church took place: the nave being assigned to the parishioners, the choir to the canons of the Priory; to a certain extent each then consti¬ tuting a separate church, yet combining to present the usual form of a large conventual church, 265 feet long, external measurement.—[See the Plan.] The choir, or Priory church, probably [of six bays, had an eastern apse, and north and south aisles, not carried round the apsidal end of the choir, but ter¬ minating in flat walls. The high altar, doubtless, stood within the apse, and was approached by several steps; in the presbytery the principal benefactors of the Priory were buried, as indicated on the Plan, arranged by the aid of Pigot's descriptive chronicle. To the conventual church a most beautiful addition was made, about 1240—50, and probably in a great measure through the liberality of Maude de Lovetot, in her old age. This was a pure Early English chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and commonly called the Lady Chapel. It was attached to the eastern side of the south transept and the western portion of the south aisle wall, communicating with the former by a single arch, and with the latter by two arches supported by a central pillar and responds. Its roof was vaulted, as indicated by the remaining springers, &c., but this has long since fallen in. Its graceful line of shafted lancet windows on the south, divided into two groups of three in each, and also its eastern triplet are admirable. The sill of the middle window of this last is much higher than those of the others, from its position over a buttness; internally the blank space thereby occasioned was probably concealed by a shrine, ciborium, or piece of sculpture. The aumbrey, double piscina, and sedile of this chapel are still in a good state of preservation; and 4 42 ^hc Jfr iotjy. its remaining features, generally, are so excellent, its details so purely designed, that it would be difficult to find a better model for a small modern church.” We have now to search for another chapel, dedi¬ cated to St. Peter, that was on the side of the choir, and adjoining it according to Pigot. These condi¬ tions will be fulfilled by the space [E] on the Plan, included within the two easternmost bays of the south aisle, if duly chancelled off from the choir and the remainder of that aisle; and there, in all probability, was St. Peter’s Chapel. The area of the central tower, in combination with that of the transepts, occupied a space of one hun¬ dred feet from north to south ; this, not improbably, formed an ante-church to the'conventual choir, or at all events was esteemed a portion of the Priory church,—a connexion that seems to be pointed to by the destruction of these features, in common with the choir. And now let us examine what may be termed the Nave of Worksop Church, if regarded as a whole, but which was also a complete parochial church before the Reformation, as well as at present. It is one hundred and forty feet long and sixty feet wide, external measurement. On entering, the effect of its unbroken aisle-arcades, supported by eight solid alternately octangular and circular shafted pillars, is very imposing; while the long range of a It has been previously stated that Wm, de Fur nival the first, Gerard de Fur- nival the second, Matilda, ist Countess of Shrewsbury, John, 2nd Earl of Shrews¬ bury'-, and John, 3rd Earl were buried in this chapel: but in it also are deposited the remains of many other persons, as will be seen from the following extracts from Torre , kindly furnished by the Rev. J. F. Dimock :—“Die Veneris in crast. St. “ Barthol. Apostoli, A.D. 1396, 20 R. 2. ; Robt. de Morton of Bautre made his will, “ proved 9 Novr., 1396. His body to be buried in the Chappell of St. Mary of the “Conventual Church of Wyrksop.” (Torre, i269.> “Feby. 8th, A.D. 1464. John Gaiteforth of Gaiteforth, Esq., made his will “ His body to be buried in the chapel of St. Mary the Virgin in the parish church “ of Wyrksop.” (Torre, 1258J “Sir Charles Pilkington, knt., left his body to be buried in the parish church cf “ Wyrksop, before the altar of St. Mary the Virgin.” (Torre, 1258J ^hc Jf^icopj. 43 the triforium arches above, together with the arcade work between them, add much to the beauty of the interior. A low wall, or solid reredos, must always have existed at the east end, within the central tower arch ; and some indications of the former still appear in the non-continuance of the tower-arch shafts to the ground, as though they had formerly rested upon, or were connected with, a wall at their respective bases. The first pair of pillars are not only of an earlier date than the others, but they rise from a slightly higher level. A step between these probably marked the limit of the parochial church sacrarium ; but its choir extended 1 two bays further to the west, and was partitioned off from the remainder, and from the aisles by screens. Over the one between the choir and the nave was a rood-loft, alluded to several times in churchwardens’ accounts, viz., “Anno 1564; A for takyng downe of the Rodc-lofte, xid;" but this appears to have been only some portion of the same, for in 1570 again appears a similar entry; “A. for ale and bread and to workmen at the takyng downe of the rode- loft, if ; — I 1 , to the paynter, for pay nting the rode-lofte before it was takyn dozen ; — I 1 , received of Mr. Vycar for tymber of the rode-loft, vj\ viij A .” Nevertheless the screen was still left intact, another item in the following year’s account pointing to this, viz. :—“ To Mychacll Hardye for makyng a crest for the roode lofte iif. if.” This was done in accordance with Arch- a The Parish Choir is distinctly spoken of by Torre , 1262, in the following extract:— “March, 1582, Willm Bolles, of Osberton, Esqre, in his will directed his body “to be buried in the south side of the Quere or Chancell of the parish church of “ Wyrksop, and to have a fair and large marble with his arms, and cognizance of “his wife, Lucy Bolles, graved in the metal called Lattyn, and set forth in their “right colours.” So also Dame Mary Lassclls of Gateford, whose will was 'proved 18 Jan., 1615, directed her body to be buried in the “ S.quire” of the church of Wyrksop. 44 bishop Grindal’s visitation directions, “that the rood- screen be left to separate the chancel from the nave, and instead of the rood-loft some convenient crest be put upon it.” The aisles were originally vaulted, as at present; but the first vaulting appears to have fallen in about the year 1567, from the evidence of the churchwardens’ accounts, and was only restored a few years ago. The easternmost bay of the north aisle was formerly separated from the church by two very thick walls. This formed the canons’ upper entrance to their own church; and a stout oaken door opposite to the ex¬ ternal one could be opened for their admission into the presbytery of the parochial church when required. This door was adorned with beautiful ironwork, similar to that still remaining on the south door of the church. Latterly, this space was used as the vestry, until another was provided. The two next bays were divided from the parish choir and the remainder of the aisle by screens ; an upright of the former still existed against the pillar [^-], and the latter was entire, until the late restoration. 3 This space, we believe, formed St. Katherine’s choir, or chantry, thus alluded to in the churchwardens’ accounts, k viz.— “ A u Ed. VI. P"". Itm. payd to Edward Ward for makyng yrons for the glassc wyndow yn Saynte Katheryn'squere, xii d ” ; for here was the only window of the period thus spoken of, until it was superseded by one of a more appropriate character within the last few years. The small recess (marked i) indicates a locker that belonged to this chapel. Another doorway originally alone broke the uni¬ formity of this aisle-wall, excepting a sepulchral arch a There were evident traces of the former existence of this screen, previous to the late restoration of the church ; portions of the capitals of the third pair of pillars having been cut away to admit of its erection. b Other items in the churchwardens’ accounts refer to payments made on account of the stonework and glass of this window. $he itfi’ioijy. 45 of a date of about 1250, the cloister on its other side preventing the insertion of windows in it; but this wall has now been rebuilt, and is pierced with lights corresponding with those in the south aisle. This last seems to have been treated in the same way as the north aisle, the first bay having apparently been taken off, 1 perhaps to form a sacristy; and the two next were certainly screened-in, so as to form a chapel, probably constituting that of St. Leonard, expressly stated to have been in the parish church, and alluded to previously as the foundation of William Pelliparius. A piscina formerly existed at the point \k\. The south doorway [/] is well propor¬ tioned, and contains a door covered with iron scroll¬ work of a very graceful character. A perpendicular porch now protects this doorway, but evidence is afforded of the existence of an older one by “ Torre, 1262 whence we find John de Gateford desiring in his will, dated 1347, to be buried in the porch of the parish church of Worksop. On the west side of this door was a stoup (marked n) until the time of the late restoration of the fabric. Two other beautiful doorways are in the west end : the one, a very rich one, in the centre of the nave; the other in the northern tower; r and there is a newel staircase in the south-western angle of the southern tower. b Such was the condition of this fine church when the religious storm connected with the Reformation took place. The royal commissioners, George Lawson, Richard Bellasis, William Blithman, and James a If this space was 1 ever walled off, as in the case of the other aisle, the wall was removed when the large altar-tomb of Frances Clipsby, who died in 1597, was erected in the archway between the choir and the aisle, which filled up the greater part of the archway. h In the Fabric Rolls of York Minster, published by the Surtees Society, p. 236, reference is made to these towers as forming part of the parish church prior to the Reformation : Nov. 13, 1311 : “ Monitio parochianis de Wirksop super reparatione “ campanillis navi ipsius ecclesiae ex parte occidentali annexi. et in angulo versus “boream annexi.” (Cap. lii., Excerpta quadum e Rcgistris Arch. Ebor. de Ecclesiis infra Prouinciam Ebor . et albi.) 46 ^he Ufrpoipj. Rokeby, demanded its surrender, Nov. 15th, 1539, after its dissolution had been ordered by the royal authority. To this the Prior, Thomas Stokkes, and the fifteen canons then resident in it, appear to have made no resistance ; and the work of destruction began as soon as they had been expelled from that establishment which was theirs through the grants of a succession of private individuals, and confirmed to their use by several sovereigns of England. Then were all the portable valuables of the church ruth¬ lessly swept away; some destined to reach the treasury of the royal despoiler, but more finding their way into the hands of Jews and brokers. Then perished the storied window-glass, glowing with the hues of rubies and emeralds. Then were broken up the tombs of the ancient lords of Worksop. Then were carried off the very altars that had been so long dedicated to the service of God. Quickly was the lead from the roofs hissing in the melting-pots of the highest bidders for the same; while oaken beams and boards, mingled with rich carved work, were dispersed in a similar manner, for the pur¬ pose of being applied to the most ordinary uses, until nothing was left of the Priory church but a mutilated skeleton; and for a time, the parochial church, although spared from the same destruction, appears to have fallen into a state of complete dilapi¬ dation, as if in sympathy for its lost twin sister. In 1542, Francis, Earl of Shrewsbury, obtained a grant of the remains of Worksop Prioiy and its precincts, who would naturally feel well disposed towards the fabric as the representative of its founder; but yet the church appears to have become still more dilapidated subsequent to that date, for in 1567 the vaulting of its aisles had fallen in, and the debris of their roofs was then carried away, the following items from the churchwardens’ books ^he $tpot|y. 47 alluding to this :— “It"', payed to ij men y l watchyd the lead in the church ij nyghts after the falle of the rooffcl —“ It'", payed to Medley & other for caryng forthc of stone into the church yard : xlv\ v A ." Probably at this time, when much was apparently done to the church, the triforium arches were converted into windows, and other similar acts of barbarism were committed, although perhaps well intended. Subsequently the fabric experienced a second period of decadence, lasting until about twenty-five years ago. Such was the condition of the fabric in 1845, when the restoration of its ancient features was commenced, and all that was bad or spurious swept away. Chiefly through the undermining of its foundations by grave and vault makers, its aisle- arcades were found to have declined very consider¬ ably from the perpendicular, one of them as much as fifteen inches. These were brought back to their original position very cleverly and successfully by the architect employed, Mr. R. Nicholson, who had to deal with a wall of 117 feet long and 34 feet high, containing 4,000 square feet of material. New bases were also then given to the pillars, and both aisle walls were re-built, in which the old doorways and new windows of an appropriate form were in¬ serted. The triforium arches were then restored, the aisle re-vaulted, and the whole fabric was re-roofed, re-seated, and re-paved. The present pulpit and prayer-desk are of good design, and very beautifully executed ; but it is more than questionable whether they have been conceived in a spirit accordant with the character of the church in which they have been placed, or, indeed, with English gothic architec¬ ture generally. The last ornament added to the edifice is the beautiful reredos presented to it by his Grace the late Duke of Newcastle, with his usual 48 §5 h e 3? x[ i o i] y . generosity. This gives great richness to the east end of the church, and, looking from its opposite end, terminates the vista very pleasingly; but when the eye has become accustomed to its varied hues, and can critically trace out all its details, again it becomes a question whether its features accord well with the old fabric it has been placed in ; and also whether its really best materials, such as the marble shafts form¬ ing a part of the composition, should have been so entirely subdued by the tints emanating simply from the painter’s brush, aided by gilding. As a work of art, however, it will command admiration ; and the difficulty of treating this end of the church must be borne in mind, consisting, as it does, simply of a veil of masonry, filling up the original central tower-arch. There can indeed be no doubt as to the genius of the designer, Sir G. G. Scott, nor of the munificence of the noble donor of this reredos. Externally, dignified simplicity is the characteristic of the remaining portions of Worksop church. For¬ merly some Decorated windows were inserted in the south aisle, but these have now been replaced by others according with the original design. The west window, between the towers, is of unusually large size, considering its date. The towers have been capped with angle pinnacles and embattled parapets of the Perpendicular period. Wfye Domestic 13mltimgs. The sum total of all lands belonging to Worksop Priory, when these were bestowed upon Francis, earl of Shrewsbury, amounted to 2,333 acres, 2 roods, and 19 perches. To him also were given the monastic buildings. From this survey, it appears that a con¬ siderable portion of these last was then standing, but Drrmn by JbxA^NicKohori^irch' _£rigm*erf b/ If DubU. ENTRANCE TO CLOISTERS domestic Buildings. 49 in a ruinous condition; in it the Priory is thus des¬ cribed, “ Imprimis, an auncient house, w h in tymes past was a Priory, being much decayed, adjoining unto Worksop church'd There is mention made also of a kilnhouse, granary, and brewhouse, situated near the mill in Priory Foulds, between the other Priory lands on the east, and Pond Yards on the west. A small portion of the Priory has survived the lapse of years since the above-named date, consisting chiefly of a wall pierced with a fine doorway, marked [], having a groined roof, now forming the vestry of the church. There are also in the said wall two small round- headed windows, and a third that has been converted into a doorway, in addition to another original round-headed one. Until lately a portion of an upper story to this building remained, in which was one plain pointed window and indications of others. The eastern face of this wall [q\, from its traces of arches and its brackets, shows that it was connected with a groined roof, and the northern one of the passage above- mentioned \_p\, that that roof was supported by a central row of pillars. These facts, in addition to the testimony of foundations of walls that have been found, point to the former existence of a building here 85 feet long and 25 feet wide; its height also was declared to be equal to that of the clerestory of the church, by a gable of the same, containing a window that existed until the recent alterations. This feature (marked L) was probably the dormitory of the Priory, built above on undercroft. The passage \p] was the vestibule, or approach to the cloister [M], which was continued as far as the 5° §5 h c $ t[ i o ii ij . transept, as indicated by the windowless north wall of the church and the brackets in the same, until it was rebuilt. There is no positive evidence as to where the other three sides of the cloister ran, excepting the discovery of foundations that certainly favour the lines given in the Plan, which thus form an exact square, having the still existing Priory well [N] in its centre. On the north side of the cloister we might expect to find the refectory, in accordance with the 'usual monastic arrangement; and that such was the case at Worksop can scarcely be doubted, from the evidence of a discovery made about thirty years ago in excavating for the foundations of the Girls’ National School. Remains of an ancient building were then disclosed, consisting of very large carefully squared stones, laid upon oaken piles; and also a portion of a stone pavement. This building is marked [O] on the Plan; and from the discovery of many animals’ bones turned up around it, as well as of boars’ tusks and portions of deer’s horns, we may fairly assume that there was the refectory, with the kitchen adjoining it. On the eastern side of the cloister we naturally look for the chapter-house; and the discovery of foundations, as indicated at [P], leads us at least to suggest that such was its position and size. The usual position of the Prior’s lodgings would incline us to search for these at the north-eastern angle of the cloister, but no foundations have been disclosed there; sometimes, however, this building was at the opposite angle of the cloister, as at Brid¬ lington; and, as at Worksop, remains of ancient walls existed until lately at [Q], including a lofty well designed chimney, springing from a moulded bracket; here, we may at least suggest, were the Prior’s Lodgings, immediately communicating with the cloister entrance. At some distance to the east of Bo me Stic Buildings. 5 1 the church was the Priory infirmary, a detached build¬ ing in a field formerly called the “ Fermery Yards,” where now is the New Cemetery: and here, not long since, was found a small floor of stones having a raised margin around it, which probably had formed the hearth of the Infirmary, as the stones were strongly marked with fire. Beyond this is a deep depression in the ground, running north and south, which is perhaps a portion of the “ magnum fossatum” of Richard Lovetot’s charter, beyond which he gave a mill to the Priory, and a tenement: “ totum videlicet situm villa de Wirksop, juxta ecclesiam, sicut per mag¬ num fossatum clauditur usque ad pratum de Berse- bigga, et extra fossatum sedem molendini cum mansura und'.' A mill and tenement still existed at Brace- bridge in 1636, which may be those here alluded to, near which was “Jesus House,” mentioned in a survey of that date as being “ moated about,” and standing in part up to this time within the remains of its moated enclosure, a little to the south-east of Brace- bridge. The road leading from the Priory gateway to Jesus House and Bracebridge was formerly called “ Long-wall way,” but now “ Cheapside.” Its first designation was probably derived from one of the large “ closure waullcs” of the Priory, spoken of by Leland. To what use “Jesus House” was applied is not known. 3 - South-west of the Priory gate-house, in a close called Marecroft , was the Priory-barn, whose site was marked until lately by the remains of an old build¬ ing; south of this were other Priory lands, respectively a Near “Jesus House ” was a piece of land, consisting of about twenty-five acres, on the south side of the Long-wall way, and called Godscroft , in the survey of 1636 ; both names apparently pointing to some very holy use to which this building and the three closes of land, constituting the above-named twenty-five acres, were applied. In the absence of all information on this head, we can only suggest that Jesus House may have been one of those mediaeval institutions—a Lazar-House , formerly so greatly needed, from the (comparatively speaking) small quantity of fresh meat that was then consumed, and the large use of salted fish, as well as of salted meat, that then prevailed. 5 2 ^hc called Laith Fields, Arnall Park, and A mall Park Wood. West of the Priory, and between it and the mill, was a small close, termed Priory Foulds, adjoin¬ ing a field called Great Pond Yard, probably deriving its name from the vivarium, or fish-pond, mentioned in the Priory charters as being near the church; beyond this was another field called Buslings (Pratum Bnsliui). North of the Priory was a small meadow called Little Pond Yards, and beyond it another, termed Prior s Well Meadow; the road adjoining is also still called Prior-well-way, because it led to a fine spring of water, gushing into a trough on its western side, from a source in a field formerly called Well-house Yards, which spring is now diverted. From the above-named survey it appears that the tenants of the Priory lands were, in addition to their money payments, required to render certain capons and ling to their landlords; on the death of a tenant a small payment was also demanded, 11 nomine Heriot” as it is termed. The only other object of interest in connection with the Priory that we need allude to is a fine groined bridge, that stood about thirty yards to the north of the present one, over the mill-race, but which was needlessly destroyed by an officious surveyor of the highways, some years ago. True it was of no use, as the stream it once spanned had been previously directed into a new channel; but as it was no im¬ pediment to the road, and was an interesting relic of the past, its destruction was a needless act of vandal¬ ism which is to be regretted. Efje Prtoru ®ate=fjouse. History is entirely silent on the point as to when the Gate-house of Worksop Priory was built, and by (f! a t e - $ o u s e. 53 whom; we must therefore endeavour to make archi¬ tecture supply the deficiency. For the most part the structure is of the Decorated period, and appears to have been erected in the first quarter of the 14th century, when the third Thomas de Furnival, lord of Worksop, was living; who in the 24th Edward L, obtained the grant of holding a market and fair, of which the wide-spreading base of a cross close by is a pleasing reminiscence. We may, therefore, assume that this Lord Furnival, the then representative of the Priory founder, at least aided in the erection of its Gate-house, and perhaps in connection with the establishment of the above-named fair and market, which would render a Gate-house to the Priory especially necessary. Externally, the southern and principal elevation of this feature is worthy of much admiration, from the general character and variety of its design. Four buttresses break up its monotony of surface; in the centre is the entrance archway, 12 feet wide, and above is a large flat-arched transomed window of six lights, surmounted by quatre-foiled tracery; this is flanked by two richly canopied niches containing statues, the one on the east representing St. Cuthbert, the patron saint of the Priory, the other either St. Aidan, his early preceptor, or more probably St. Augustine, whose rule was observed at Worksop. In the gable above is another similar niche, filled with a statue; not of the Virgin and Child, as has been usually said, but of the first person of the Holy Trinity, holding a crucifix between His knees; and above this is a pretty little perforated circlet. The western elevation is in a ruinous condition. The northern one has a central gable, lit by a four-lighted transomed window, and supported by a lean-to on either side. There will be perceived a closed door¬ way, about ten feet from the ground, once giving access to the upper rooms of the Gate-house by 54 jp h e 3? jj i o n g. means of external stone steps up to that point. Another staircase still exists on the opposite side of the Gate-house, provided with a protecting porch, now constituting its most conspicuous feature, and adding much picturesqueness to its appearance. It is of the beginning of the 15th century, and may have been erected wholly, or at least in part, by John Talbot, the celebrated Earl of Shrewsbury, and in right of his wife, Maude Nevil, the heiress of the Fumivals, lord of Worksop Manor at that time. This opinion seems to be supported by the MS. notes of Dodsworth, who, writing in 1634, says that two of the niches of this Gate-house were then filled with statues of knights, the one in the west bearing a shield, charged with a lion rampant,—the other dis¬ playing a bend between six martlets, i.c. Talbot and Furnival. 11 These, no doubt, occupied the now empty niches in the central pair of buttresses, and were probably erected at the same time as the porch, in honour of the first Talbot, who was lord of Worksop, and of William, the last Lord Furnival, his wife’s grandfather, who died in 1383. Above the sadly mutilated window of this porch is a canopied recess, filled with a small piece of sculpture, representing the Adoration of the Magi , with the remains of censing angels above, bending downwards; and this was sur¬ mounted by a richly wrought flat gable. On the east is a doorway, now walled up, below a large and interesting sculptured representation of the Annunci¬ ation ; and on the west is another doorway still in use. Internally the porch is everywhere richly deco¬ rated with carving, and within its elaborately carved niche, once, no doubt, stood a statue, probably of the Virgin and Child. The great richness of ornamen- a It must not be forgotten, however, that the lion rampant was also the bearing of the house of Love tot: so that those figures may have represented the Founder and the Furnival under whose patronage the Gate-house was built. (Pate-$ouse. 55 tation bestowed upon what may be termed a porch to the Gate-house, appears to point to another and a higher use to which it was not improbably applied— namely, prayer. A chapel and a guest-chamber were usually found in close proximity within or near to Monastic Gate-houses; and the features, of which we are speaking, perhaps, served as an oratory to coming or departing guests, who could here thank God for the relief they had sought and obtained at the hands of the former occupants of Worksop Priory. It is worthy of observation, however, that in the eastern gable of the Gate-house is a three-light window, with obtusely pointed head, of a character much more ecclesiastical than the other. This may not improbably have belonged to a chapel contained in the original building with which it is co-eval. This chapel may have been used for the purposes above referred to, previously to the erection of the beautiful porch. Although Monastic Gate-houses were, in some in¬ stances, built for defensive purposes, it is quite evident that no such intention was entertained here; not only from the exposed character of its entrance, but from the position of its great door and postern, these having been hung in the centre of the Gate-house, instead of in its external arch¬ way, so that assailants could have readily fired the finely-groined oak roof above without any fear of assault from the Priory inmates, through the protec¬ tion offered by the outer portion of the Gate-house itself. On either side of the archway are two small rooms, one, no doubt, originally intended for the use of the porter, and the others were perhaps connected with the duties of the Hospitiarius or guest-master, and the Elcmosinarius or almoner. The road-way through the building is about fifteen yards, and has for its ceiling the singularly interesting 56 & h e 3?j;ioi;y. and beautiful original oak roof here represented. Section of Braces. Section of Beams. This forms the floor of the room above, formerly the monastic Hospitium or guest-chamber, as is pretty clearly indicated by the large hooded chimney-piece and the ample hearth below—that has, doubtless, in former years warmed a long succession of way¬ worn travellers, 5 and mendicant poor, ever craving admittance beneath the roofs of religious houses in older times, and where alone such charity was then usually to be found. There were other smaller chambers opening into the central apartment above. These still exist, although they have undergone con¬ siderable alterations, and the direct communication with the one behind the fire-place has here been cut off. They were probably dormitories for strangers. a In 1488, when the clergy of the province of York granted a tenth in Convoca¬ tion, the Priories of Worksop and Newstead were exempted : because, situated on the king’s highway, they were burdened beyond what they could bear by the coming of strangers.— Hunter's South Yorkshire, voL i. p. 8. From Tanner. (pate-Rou$e, 57 We learn from Fasti Eborici, vol. i„ p. 462, “ That on May 7th, 1314, the Prior and Convent of Worksop had the Archbishop of York’s permission to fell for the use of their house 200 oaks in the forest of Roumwood.” It would seem, therefore, that some important works were being carried on at this Priory at that period ; and as this date well accords with the architectural character of the Gate-house, it is probable that it was then erected,—and if so, that we see some of the wood of these Roumwood oaks in the roof of the Gate-house. 5 CHAPTER IV. ffiforfemp: its writ} listnrif nufr prearot nsprrt. HOUGH we know little of Worksop as it was in Saxon times, yet as certain glimpses of its history, previous to the Conquest, are afforded in the Domesday survey, it seems desirable that, in a work like the present, these should have some slight notice. We learn then, from the authority just named, that the Saxon proprietor, Elsi, the son of Caschin, had “sac, soc, toll, and theam, together with the king’s customs, or 2 d on all pleas and fines within his manor of Worksop.” Elsi was evidently a person of distinction. This is shewn by the mention of his manorial rights, which were such as were accorded only to few. It seems probable, too, that he had a residence or hall at Worksop, from the exercise of his manorial privi¬ leges. This, however, is not recorded in the survey. It is observable also, that in the time of Harrison’s Survey in 1636, a considerable portion of the eastern side of the park, near the entrance lodge, was called “the Hall Closes,” or “the Old Hall Closes.” It is not improbable that the Saxon hall may have stood near the head of the old Market Place, where until recent days, an old dilapidated Moot Hall remained, at which the suitors of the manor were wont to assemble on court days. This hall may, perhaps, have been the successor of that of Elsi. Moijfesop: its 33ar L 1 tj Ijlistotpj. 59 The ancient lords had a castle at Worksop, built probably, though this is not known for certainty, by William de Lovetot, the founder of the priory. It stood on the prominent hill, west of the town, which is still called the “Castle Hill,” and which is now as it was in the days when Leland visited Worksop, temp. Henry VIII, “invironyd with trees.” Little or nothing is known of the history of this castle, or as to the time when it was destroyed. It probably was not a place of any great strength or importance, and all vestiges of its buildings have for centuries vanished away. Leland tells us that even in his day, the Castle was “ cleane downe and scant knowen wher it was.” “ The stones of the Castel ” he adds, “were fetchid, as sum say, to make the fair lodge in Wyrkesoppe Parke, not yet finished but he observes, “ I am of opinion that the Chanons had the ruins of the Castil stones to make the closure of their large waulles.” Immediately to the west of the Castle Hill was the Lord’s water mill, always an important adjunct of a manor. This, at the time of Harrison’s survey, formed the most valuable rental on the estate, being let for the then large sum of £ 8 o per annum. The waters which supplied its dam have been diverted within present memory. Till that time they impelled a wheel, no longer employed for grinding corn but for the sawing of wood and turning brush handles and heads, and they were previously used as the motive power of a cotton mill. To the south of the Castle Hill is a continuation of the same elevated ground, which is called the Lead Hill. It derived its name from the circumstance of its having been formerly the place where the lead, which was brought from Derbyshire on pack-horses, was deposited, till it could be conveyed forward to Bawtry or Gainsborough, for water carriage to London 6o ®3ovhsop: its Barit) J-Jistory. and other places. An evidence of this fact was found during the excavation for the sewerage of the town in 1859, * n the form of a pig of that metal. The name of Lead Hill, it may be observed, does not appear in the survey of Harrison, but it is there denominated “Tenter-Green.” At the beginning of the last century the parish authorities had a bull ring made on the Lead Hill, to enable them to comply with a by-law in the rolls of the Court-Leet and Baron of the Lord of the Manor that “ no bull shall be killed and sold in the market of Worksop without having been first baited in the bull ring.” In November, 1722, there was a fire on the Lead Hill, which raged with great rapidity; the damage was computed at £1000. Adjoining the castle precincts was a park, but it would seem not to have been co-extensive with that described in Harrison’s survey. This ancient park is, however, frequently alluded to in the document, but for the most part only in reference to certain portions of it which had then been disparked and let out to the inhabitants of the town as accommodation land. Indeed, we read of portions both of an “old parke” and a “new parke” so appropriated, and what sounds rather singular, of “ a part of the old parke called new parke.” Mention is also made of the “ Ren- parke,” and of a portion of the old park called “ Pattrycke ends.” These all seem to have been situated about the “ Stubbings,” which are also refer¬ red to in the survey named above, as forming a portion of the old park. It is probable that the change was made in the extent and arrangement of the park when the Earls of Shrewsbury built the Manor House here. Before passing from our notice of this part of the park, it may be well to correct a misnomer which, in Moj;fc$op: its £ai;bj JjJistotq). 61 modern times, has crept in with respect to a certain portion of it. This is now called “ Sandhill Place,” but the ancient and correct designation of it, as appears in Harrison, was “ Standhill.” It was no doubt so called from a “Stand" having been erected in this elevated portion of the park, from which the ladies and others might see the hunting. Worksop was formerly very famous for the growth of Liquorice. In the time of Elizabeth, Camden in his “ Britannia ” notices the fame of the town for this plant. Speed says “ In the west, near Worksop, groweth plenty of Liquorice, very delicious and good:” a and Harrison thus alludes to it; “I cannot here omit that thing wherein the towne of Workesoppe excelleth all others within the Realme and most noted for, I meane the store of Licoras that groweth therein, and that of the best.” Sundry entries occur in his survey of the rent of a “ licoras garden.” These gardens were principally situated on the eastern mar¬ gin of the park, near the present “Slack Walk.” About fifty years ago the last garden of this plant was dug up, which had been planted by the person after whom the “ Brompton stock ” b is named. The tradesmen of Worksop of the 17th century, had, like those of most other towns, their local tokens, but only the following three are known. O.—Joseph. Flecher. in R.—Worksop, his. half, peny O.—Thomas. Lee. 1666 R.—In. Wovrksop c O.—Rich. Rvtter. his. half, peny = - Arms. R.—In. Worksop. 1664 d _ a “ The Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine,” p. 65, 1614 Holland’s Worksop , p. 6. = The Apothecaries’ Arms. F = I. K = The Grocers’ Arms. L = T. F c This is a farthing. d Boyne’s Tokens, p. 371. 62 Moi|fe$op: its Baijly history. Thomas Christopher Hofland, who, in his day, acquired considerable reputation as an original land¬ scape painter and also as a copyist and drawing- master, was born at Worksop on Christmas-day, 1777. His father was a skilful and extensive manufacturer of cotton mill machinery, and it would seem was only a temporary resident in Worksop, from whence he removed in 1780 to Lambeth, where he was un¬ successful in business. The son was an almost entirely self-taught artist: yet by great industry and natural taste he attained to no ordinary skill in painting. He obtained the patronage of some of the first persons in the country, including his Majesty King George the III, who com¬ missioned him to prepare a series of drawings of plants and flowers, then newly received into the Royal gardens. Hofland visited Italy in his sixty-third year, where he had commissions to make sketches for the Earl of Egremont. He died, of a cancer in the stomach, at the age of sixty-five, Jan. 3rd, 1843, at Leamington, where he had gone for medical advice. 1 His wife, Barbara Hofland, was the author of the well-known “ Son of a Genius,” and many other books which charmed the children of a by-gone day. The remains of the “Old Ship Inn,” a curious and interesting “bit of old Worksop,” is represented in the tailpiece to this chapter. One cannot but regret that it should have been deemed necessary to make the recent alterations in this venerable and picturesque hostelry, which probably may have dated as early as the reign of Henry VUIth. Nothing seems to be known of its history. It is not named in the survey of Harrison, and must therefore have been at that time private property, not included in the Manor estate. William of Worcester appears to be the only a See Memoir, by his Widow, “Art Union” March, 1843. Motjhsop: its Eat|ly Jjtistojp). 6 3 chronicler who notices a fight having taken place at Worksop during the civil wars of the Roses. He states that “the Duke of York, with the Earl of Salisbury, and many thousand armed men, going from London to York, in December, 1460, a portion of his men, the van, as is supposed, or perhaps the scouts, to the number of * * * [Here was an hiatus in the MS. from which Hearne printed ] were cut off by the people of the Duke of Somerset, at Worksop.” 8 Lingard notices this skirmish, and dates it December 2, and says, “though Somerset surprised the van¬ guard of the Yorkists at Worksop, they reached, before Christmas, the strong castle at Sandal.” b In June 1603, the same year that James 1. was at Worksop, c his Queen and the Royal Children visited the Earl of Shrewsbury at Worksop Manor, and it is to this visit that the following entry from an old book of churchwardens’ accounts refers : “ It paycl to six virgns when the Queene’s Mat ie came to Work¬ sop Manor iijs.” On the occasion of this visit, the celebrated Toby Matthew, then Bishop of Durham and afterwards Archbishop of York, preached before them.' 1 From the same old book of accounts we find from the following entry that James I, was again at Work¬ sop in 1616 : “ for ringing on y e gunpowther daye and at y c Kings coming to Worksoppe xiijs.” He again visited Worksop on the 7th April, 1617, on his way to Scotland, when having knighted at Newark, Sir George Peckham, of Derbyshire, and Sir Henry Herbert, a captain, he left that place for Worksop and rested there the same night, whence on a Hearne’s Liber Niger, p. 484. b History of England, vol. v. p. 221, 8vo. Edition; e See page 17. <1 Vic Leodicnsis , p. 159. 64 Moqbsop: its USaijlg $istoity. the following morning the singular proclamation here given was issued; its freedom from the ordinary formality of such compositions, favours the supposi¬ tion that it was a production of the Royal pen. “ The Princelie care which wee ever beare towardes the good governement and reliefe of our people, suffereth noe occasion to passe whereby wee maie exercise and manyfeste the same. Neither is it unknowen to our loving subjects, by former Proclamations of this nature, howe desirous wee have alwaies beene to renewe and revive the aunciente and lawdable custome of this our Kingdome, whereby Noblemen and persons of qualitie were used rather to dwell and reside in the several counties of this Realme, wheare their principal Seates and Mansions weare, than to gather to London, and theare to remayn to the decaye of hospitalitie and the disservice of the Country. Wherefore, taking into our Princelie consideration that, wee being now in our Journey towardes our Realme of Scotland, re- sorte of such persons unto our Citie will bee lesse needfull, but rather that it is farre more convenient that they abide and contynewe in their several dwellings in the countrey, to perfourme the duties and charge of their places and service, and likewise by house-keeping to be a comforte unto their neighbours; we doe hereby straightlie charge and comaunde all our Lewetenaunts, except such as be of-our Privie Councell or are commanded to attende upon us in our Journey, and alsoe all Noblemen, Deputie-Lewetenaunts, Knights, and other Gentlemen of qualitie, which have Mansion-howses in the Countrie, that within twentie daies after this our Proclamation published, they departe with their wives and famylies oute of our saide Cittie of London and the suburbes thereof, and retourne to their several habitations in the countrey, and there continewe and abide untill the ende of the Sommer vacation ; wherein neverthelesse wee would have this our commandemente to be understood that such as have necessarie occasion to attende heere in oure Cittie of London for Tearme buisynes concerninge their estate, or such as shall have other special! and urgent occasions, which they shall signifie and approve unto our Privie Councell, maie during the twoe next Termes, or during such other times as their occasions, soe to bee signified and approved as aforesaide, shall require, come uppe and remaine within our Cittie of London or the suburbs thereof, this our Proclamation nothwithstanding; and because wee have heretofore founde much remissnes and neglect in obeyinge our Proclamations, which are ever published for juste and polliticque causes, and for the publicque good, we doe therefore admonishe all those whom theis presents may con- cerne, to beware that wee have no jusste cause to make them an example of contempte for disobeyinge this oure Royall commaunde- mente. Given at our Courte at Worksoppe the eighte day of Aprill. Per ipsttm Rcgcm a Nichols’ Progresses. &c., of King James the First, pp. 268—9. Moijhsop: its &at|lv} ^istoijy 65 In 1633, it appears that Charles I visited Worksop, when on his way to Scotland to hold a parliament and receive coronation : the following is the entry in the book before-named: “ffor ringing three dayes when our Royall King came his p’grasse £1. 1. 0.” During the civil war of Charles I, Worksop seems to have been slightly implicated in the contests of that period. From “A List of His Majestie’s Marches and Removes,” a we find that on “the 15th August, 1645, the King came to Welbeck, which the Marquis of Newcastle had garrisoned for the royal party: after going a little farther northward, his Majesty returned to Retford, and on the 21st came to Newark : Satur¬ day, October 4th, the King came again to Newark, where he staid nine days ; and Sunday, the 12th, went to Tuxford, whence he returned on Monday, the 13th, to Welbeck, where he had dinner in the field.” 8 Allusion is made to the King’s visit to these parts, if not to the town, in the following entry in the church¬ wardens’ accounts for 1645 ;—- For Ringing when his Ma ,ic passed by • • 4 o It would appear from the following entry in the parish register of Thorpe-Salvin that a fight took place at this time :— “ There were five men buried in the beginninge of October, beinge slayne in a fight on Thorpe More, bctweene ye garrison of Welbeck on the King’s part, & Captaine Rodes on the Parlament part, AO. DI. 1645.” “The manner of which scormige was thus: a partie of Welbeck horse were drawne out, under the comand of John Jametz, maior to Colonel Fretchwell, (Fresch- ville of Stavely,) to discrie a partie of the Faria- a Collectanea Curiosa, vol. ii. p. 427. 66 Motiksop: its Barjy ^istoijy. meat’s, w ch had given an Alarm to the Welbeckians at Worksop where they had killed two" of the King’s partie. Jametz drew vp his partie in the Hollings on the More, meeting wi h the forlorne hope of the enemie who fled into theyr bodie, comanded by Captaine Rodes, of Steetley, which was divided into 3 com¬ panies, to the number of 200. Jametz had advanced but with 18 men, & his forlorne hope, being more threescore, flyinge, the Parlamenters pursued, killed five men, and tooke fortie, the most of which they wounded after quarter was given: one of them escaped, w h was Thomas Battersbie, whose hand they cutt off, which was buried in ye churchyard of Thorpe-Salvin.” The town of Worksop is situated in a rich and gently sloping valley, in the north-west corner of Nottinghamshire, in the hundred of Basset-Lawe, on the border of Sherwood Forest. Its latitude is 53 0 18' north, and i° 9' west longitude. The neighbourhood is agreeably diversified with woodland scenery and park-like landscapes. On approaching the town, from the Railway Station, the effect of the fine woods seen in the distance, extend¬ ing over hundreds of acres south of the town, of the double-towered priory church in the valley, and of the new church of St. John’s in the foreground, is both striking and beautiful. Worksop has no manufactures peculiar to itself, but the malting trade is carried on very extensively, and the direct access which the town has to the great manufacturing districts of Lancashire, renders it a most desirable locality for that business. There are now a great number of malt-kilns in and around a The Worksop Churchwardens’ Accounts for 1645, contain the following notices:— fTor the buriall of a soldjer .. .. ,. 36 ffor the buriall of two more, slaine in the townc 26 ffor the buriall of 3 sold, more, slaine in the townc 31 Moijfcsop: its Jftiesent Aspect. 67 the town, the cowls or hoods of which form a striking peculiarity in the scenery of the place. The amount of duty paid to the Excise for malt in the Worksop district is about £50,000 per annum. The principal markets for this article are Sheffield, Manchester, &c., &c. The town is famous for its flour, and it is admirably situated for carrying on a great trade in that article, as it is now connected by rails with districts to the eastward, unequalled for the extent of their agricultural productions, and it is thus convenient as a central mart between the growers and the consumers. The grinding of corn is just the species of manufacturing operation adapted for a clean and pretty market town in an agricultural district, and can neither detract from its agreeable aspect, nor render it unsuitable for the residence of families who wish to enjoy the pleasures of the country, particularly of retired manufacturers and tradesmen, who desire to terminate the labours of their youth and manhood in case and repose. The timber trade has become an important business in the town of late years, and a considerable number of men are employed in preparing timber for rail¬ way purposes, and for the various departments of the Sheffield trade. Worksop has also long been famous for the manufacture of Windsor chairs. The “ Public Health Act, 1848,” was applied to the town by a Provisional Order, dated February 6th, 1852, and in 1859—60 the Local Board of Health carried out a thorough system of sewerage and drain¬ age at a cost of £6000. The system of sewerage was devised by Robert Rawlinson, Esq., C.E., C.B., and is considered one of the most efficient in England. In 1866 the Local Board of Health was constituted a Burial Board for the parish of Worksop, and a Cemetery of about four acres was made adjoining the parish churchyard. 68 Moijhsop: its Resent Aspect. In 1801 the population of the parish was 3,263, and the following table will shew its increase to 1871 :— 1801 1811 1821 1831 1841 1851 1861 1871 3.263 3.702 4.567 5,566 6,197 7,333 8,361 10,410 When the last census was taken, there were 5,305 males and 5,105 females in this parish, and it will be seen that the increase during the ten years was 2,049. The parish comprises 17,650 acres, and the population of the several townships comprised therein is as follows:— Worksop .... . ... 6,311 Radford .... . , . . 2,958 Gateford .... . . . . 220 Haggonfield .... 156 Shireoaks .... 572 Osberton with Scofton 178 Hamlet of Kilton 15 10,410 The rateable value of which is ^"55,185 11 10, and the ecclesiastical division is to The Parish Church .... 5,844 St.John’s Church .... 3,829 St. Luke’s, Shireoaks .... 737 10,410 The town derives additional interest from the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway, and Mot;h$op: its 3?ije$cnt Aspect. 69 from the branch of the Midland Railway to Mans¬ field and Nottingham passing by it. The act for the former line passed the House of Lords, July 17, 1846, and the line was opened July 17, 1849. The following may be regarded as the principal objects of interest in the town. The Railway Station is in the Elizabethan style, and is built of stone from Steetley quarry, on the Worksop Manor estate. This station is one of the largest and most attractive on the line. It is situated on the north side of the town, and com¬ mands a very pleasing view. The frontage of the building is 101 feet, the length of the platform is 252 feet. The roof over the roadway is particularly light and elegant. St. Soljn’s (Eijurrij. This Church is situated on the north side of the town, near the Railway Station, and has had an Ecclesiastical District assigned to it, the River Ryton being the boundary to the south. The existence of this church is due mainly to the liberality and exer¬ tions of the late George Savile Foljambe, Esq. The foundation stone was laid by the Viscountess Milton, on the 16th April, 1868. The church is calculated to seat about 700 persons. The plan consists of nave, chancel, north and south aisles, vestry, tower, and north porch ; the clerestory is supported upon four clustered columns with moulded bases and carved caps. The aisles are lighted by two-light lancets ; the piers are quatrefoil on plan, with carved caps and moulded bases. The chancel has three detached shafts and moulded arch and hood mould¬ ings. The roof trusses are trefoil, ribbed principals, supported in detached stone shafts with carved caps and foliage corbels under bases. The tower is groined 7° iS&orhsop: its Resent Aspect. in stone, with moulded ribs, and is surmounted by a graceful spire, with large pinnacles at the four angles, and two tiers of Lucerne lights: the height to the top of vane is 150 feet. The belfry in the tower has a two-light window, and is arcaded all round. The total height to bridge of nave is 53 feet. The length from east to west is 141 feet six inches. The width of the nave is 22 feet six inches, and the side aisles are 15 feet and 13 feet respectively. 3 As a memorial to perpetuate the memory of the late George Savile Foljambe, Esq., who endowed this church, a reredos has been erected by public subscription. This memorial, which surrounds three sides of the chancel, consists of a reredos and an arcade of sixteen panels. The arches of the latter are moulded, and the panels are of polished Sicilian marble. The space below is filled with geometric mosaic tiles, the colours of which add greatly to the general effect. The reredos is formed of three effectively moulded arches, cusped' and supported on shafts of Belgian marble. The panels are of figured Derbyshire alabaster, the centre one containing the sacred monogram illuminated in gold and colours, while those on each side are decorated with incised symbolical devices. With each device is inter¬ woven an illuminated ribbon, bearing the texts:— “ I am the true vine.”—“ I am the living bread.” Immediately above the communion table are the words,—“ This do in remembrance of me.” The reredos terminates in a crocheted gable, in the centre of which is carved a trefoil panel, emblematic of the Trinity. The memorial is Early English, to harmonize in character with the style of the church. b The church presents a light and graceful appearance, the tower a Messrs. R. Clarke and Son, of Nottingham, were the Architects. 1) This Memorial was executed by Messrs. E. and T. Smith, of Sheffield, from the designs of Mr. Theophilus Smith. Morksop: its Resent Aspect. 7i and spire standing out in bold relief. It shews itself to peculiar advantage from many points in and around the town, the view from Bridge-street being particularly striking. A little to the east of the Railway Station is the Union Workhouse, which was built in 1837, and is the centre of a union of 29 parishes and townships. Recently an Infirmary combining the most modern approved arrangements has been added to the Work- house. Immediately adjoining the Union Workhouse is an Infant School, originally built at the sole expense of the late Robert Ramsden, Esq., of Carlton Hall, by whose liberality and munificence it was supported many years; at his death it was purchased by the late George Savile Foljambe, Esq.; and this, as well as another Infants’ School, in Castle-street, is now supported by Francis J. Savile Foljambe, Esq., M.P. The Savings Bank, situated on the left side of Bridge-street, is a neat stone building, erected in 1843. Immediately above is the branch of the Nottingham and Nottinghamshire Banking Company, and in Potter-street is the Worksop Branch of Messrs. Beckett and Co.’s Bank. In Bridge-street may be noticed the New Wes¬ leyan Methodist Chapel built in 1863, and which re-places the first Methodist Chapel built in 1813. On the 29th June, 1780, the Rev. John Wesley visited Worksop, as the following uncomplimentary extract affirms. “ I was desired to preach at Work¬ sop ; but when I came they had not fixed on any place; at length they chose a lamentable one full of dirt and dust, but without the least shelter from the scorching sun: this few could bear; so we had only a small company of as stupid people as ever I saw. In the evening I preached in the old house at Sheffield.” 11 a Wiesley’s Journal, vol. iv. p. 178. Ed. 1867. 72 Moijfesop: its Resent Aspect, There seems to be some doubt as to the place where he preached. Mr. Holland says on the Lead Hill; an old inhabitant, the late Mr. Mordecai Binney, said he remembered him “ preaching in Bridge-street, opposite a butcher’s shop, when he was pelted with sheep’s garbage.” a In Potter-street is the Wesleyan Free Church Chapel ; in Westgate the Congregational ; and in Newgate-street the Primitive Methodist C lIAPEL. These are all unpretending buildings, but well suited for their several, yet one, purpose. At the head of Potter-street is situated the Corn Exchange, a neat and useful building, in the Italian style, built in 1851, by a joint-stock company. In the centre of the front of the exchange will be seen the arms of the Duke of Newcastle, carved in stone, and forming a considerable ornament and relief to the somewhat heavy appearance of the elevation. At the top is a clock, with an illuminated dial, which was presented to the company by the then Duke of Newcastle. It is found to be a great convenience to the inhabitants. The principal en¬ trance to the building is by a flight of steps, passing under three arches of rustic stonework; the centre door leads into the large room on the basement floor, where, on market days, the corn factors hold the corn market. Entering the door to the left, we ascend a flight of steps, which brings us to the corridor; pass¬ ing through this, we enter the spacious assembly room, in which are held the county court, concerts, lectures, &c., &c. In a room adjoining the corn exchange is the library of “ the Reading Society and Mechanics’ Institute,” above which is a news room well supplied with daily and other papers. * Mr. Hewitt, who was then living at Shireoaks, was at Oxford with Mr. Wesley and he sent to invite him to his house, but it will be seen from the above extract that he had to preach at Sheffield the same evening. Mor;h$op: its 3?i;c$e»t Aspect. 73 The Society was formed at a public meeting, held in the Assembly Room, on the 15th April, 1852. A good Library, containing about 2,000 volumes, has been formed, partly by donations of money and books from the principal noblemen and gentlemen in the neighbourhood. In the rear of the building will be found the butchers’ shambles; and the markets for miscel¬ laneous articles are held in the various parts of the surrounding open space. Ivcmtan Catljoltc (fTijapd Is situated at the top of Park-street, near the Lodge Gates. It was built by the Duke of Norfolk, soon after he sold the Worksop Manor Estate, on which the old chapel was situated. This Chapel is dedi¬ cated to St. Mary, and forms a beautiful object on entering the town by the Newark road. The pro¬ portions and details of the exterior have been care¬ fully selected from ancient examples, and its carved enrichments have been executed with much spirit and freedom. The interior of the Chapel is, however, deserving of a few remarks. It is 80 feet long, 33 feet wide, and 52 feet to the roof ridge. The harmony and simplicity of the nave, with its traceried open roof, at once recommend themselves to the eye of the beholder. The plan of the chancel or sanctuary is scmi-hexangular. It is lighted by three windows of stained glass, executed with beautiful and correct taste. The altar is of white Roche Abbey stone, richly carved ; and upon it rests an elaborate oak reredos, the crocheted canopies and pinnacles of which break the line of the window sill. Parts of the whole composition are slightly coloured and gilded, after the ancient manner, so as to harmonise with, and at the same time heighten, the gorgeous tints of the 6 74 ®5lo»|hsop : its present Aspect. windows. The roof is dark blue, and forms a very harmonious relief with the oak. The celebrated Alban Butler, the Jesuit, author of the “ Lives of the Saints,” was officiating Priest at Worksop for a short period, during the time he was tutor to the Duke of Norfolk’s family. THE OLD SHIP INN. CHAPTER V. €jjr BInnor IMse nriii ynrk. B iORKSOP Manor, as previously stated, was formerly the seat of the ancient Lords of Worksop. It descended by marriage to the Duke of Norfolk, in whose family it remained until 1840, when the entail was cut off, and the estate was sold to the then Duke of Newcastle for ^375,000, who shortly afterwards commenced pulling down the mansion. At the top of Park Street is the entrance to the Manor Park, which presents a landscape rich in every variety of sylvan scenery. Here, the grand old oaks, beeches, firs and cedars, arranged in every variety of tint, and standing on turfy plain and rising mounds, and throwing their shadows so deeply over the green glades, form a picture which will amply repay a visit. Within a short distance of the house, there is a beautiful sweep of woodland scenery studding the “ Manor Hills” on the left, at the foot of which the Castle Farm, with its gothic and embattled parapet, forms an object at once striking and picturesque ; still further to the left may be seen the curling smoke from the “ Cottage,” formerly the keeper’s house. The woods surrounding this delightful little spot are very beautiful, particularly the fine beech wood, which has been not inappropriately named the “Druid’s Temple.” (Ijihc a n o v, Bouse a iul I? a v h. 76 There is also the “Lover’s Walk,” a narrow path lead¬ ing clown into the wood, with hills rising on each side of this walk. On the one side it is thickly hung with the rich dark laurel, and on the other, rise tall and towering trees of various kinds. This path winds round until it brings us into the “Plain Piece,” a portion of well-sheltered ground of considerable extent, which for some time has been the yearly scene of the encampment and manoeuvres of the 1st Administrative Battalion of the Notts. Rifle Volunteers. The wood on the north-west side of the Park com¬ monly known as the “ Menagerie a ” contains a great variety of beautiful trees including the acacia, cedar, yew, tulip tree, and fine specimens of the rhodo¬ dendron, but its miniature lakes and pleasant walks, which formerly added charms to this sequestered spot, are now uncared for, and it may at the present day well be designated by its more, ancient name of the “ Wilderness.” b Proceeding forwards on the carriage road, and on approaching the Mansion, we come to the large iron gates under the clock house through which we enter the extensive court-yard. The buildings on the left consist of what remains of the old mansion. To the right are the extensive stables, coach houses, &c. The beautiful screen of light architecture in front is well deserving notice. The iron gates in this screen lead to the north front of what remains of the man¬ sion. After the work of demolition had removed ft So called from the fact of the Duchess Mary of Norfolk having kept a collection of animals, or rather, it would seem, of birds, here. It is thus alluded to by Mrs. Delany, in a letter dated Welbeck. Sep. 14, 1756, when she was staying with her great friend, Margaret, Duchess of Portland. “We went on Sunday evening to the Duchess of Norfolk’s Menagerie at Worksop Manor, but I only saw a crown bird and a most delightful cockatoo, with yellow breast and topping.” Life and Cor- respondniccy xst series, vol 3, p. 440. b It is thus alluded to by Harrison in his survey. “Item, a close of pasture called the Wildernesse, lying on the east side of the srite of the said Mannor, and containing 34a. ir. rop.” ft « I ft ■ ■ I ■ Ground Plan of Worksop Manour, as originally intended Intended South Front of Worksop Manouv fjlhe fflanott Ijlouse and lpai]h. 77 the main building, leaving the east court, or the servants’ offices intact, a new portion, consisting of drawing-room, billiard-room, &c., &c., was built, and the ground on which the former house stood was converted into a conservatory and terrace. a The gardens, which are situated on the north of the house, *are extensive and are well kept. The Mansion formerly here had a fine fa?ade of Steetley stone 303 feet long, in the centre of which was a Corinthian portico supported by six columns. A light and elegant balustrade surrounded the edifice from the tympanum to the projecting part of the ends, which marked the terminations in the style of wings, and upon this were placed a series of beautiful vases executed with great taste. In the centre was a sculptured pediment, b on the three points of which were statues representing “ Virtue,” “ Peace,” and “ Plenty.” The sculpture has been described thus: “ The three animals denoted some of the well-known ancient alliances of the Norfolk family. They were emblematical: the lion is an emblem of strength and courage, the horse of generous ardour, and the dog of fidelity and vigilance. On the west side of the prin¬ cipal group was a distant view of the Old Manor House, which, with all the furniture, and the rest of its contents, was consumed by fire in October, 1761. The evening sun, the broken columns, and the shat¬ tered trees were expressive of the devastation occa¬ sioned by the calamitous accident. On the east side, the whole appeared to be unhurt, or restored to its former beauty, which is expressed by the flourishing oaks, the sheep feeding, and the ploughman pursuing a The late Lord Foley resided here thirteen years, and the taste which he and the Lady Foley displayed in and about the house, aided by their large collections of choice articles of vertu, will ever be fresh in the memory of those who were privi¬ leged to enjoy a sight of the same ; and it is a cause of deep regret that a family so amiable and benevolent should have removed from the neighbourhood. b This pediment was carefully taken down when the house was dismantled, and was set up in the stable yard where it now remains. £j$hc $anoq Bouse and 3?aijh. 78 his labours. In the foreground of this part, was represented the plan of the subsequent building, and some of the instruments employed in erecting the edifice.” This house, extensive as it was, it is under¬ stood, formed only a fourth part of the original plan, which was designed to enclose a central court, and if completed would no doubt have been one of the largest edifices in the kingdom. This house replaced the far larger residence named here, and which contained 500 rooms. It was under¬ going alterations, which had cost the Duke of Norfolk £22,000 and which were nearly completed, when on October 20th, 1761, the whole building was burnt to the ground, including the library, 8 a valuable collec¬ tion of pictures, magnificent furniture, and part of the Arundelian marbles. k The loss was estimated at £ioo,ooo. c Leland, writing in the reign of Henry VIII., says “ By Worksoppe is a parke of six or seven miles in compace, longging to the Earl of Shrewsbury,” and from “ An exact and perfect survey and view of ye Mannor of Workesop w* the Priory Mannor,” of lands under the charge of “ Ye Bayliffe of Worksop” made in 1636, by John Harrison, we find there was at that time “ a spacious Parke, being seven miles and a halfe and halfe a quarter in compass, and contayneth by measure, according to the statute, 2,302 acres, two roods, and 31^ perches. About the midst thereof standeth a very stately house, called the Mannor, and built of freestone,being very pleasantlysituated upon a a Wanley, in his Private Memorandum Book, 1721, notices the “Duke of Nor¬ folk’s old English Books at Wirksopp.” MS. Lansdowtte, 667, f. 6. b S zz Hcnuard’s Historical Anecdotes of some of the Howard Family, p. 106, 1769. Manning and Bray s Surrey, Vol. 3, p. 481, and also Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica, No. xxxix, 1786. One of these marbles, a colossal figure without head or legs, now lies ina field adjoining the town. <* .S'. and N. Buck engraved two large views of this mansion, dated 1745, one of which we have reduced by the new Heliotype process as one of our illustrations. ^he ($anoi] JJouse and a^h. 79 hill with gardens correspondent to thes ame and he adds, “ This parke is well adorned with timber ; and not meanly furnished with fallow deare ; the number of them at this present is about eight-hundred. There is a little river running through this parke very profitable, not only in regarde of the troute and other fish therein contained, but especially in regard of the water-mill well built of stone standing upon the said river, neare unto the parke and the towne of Worksop.” Evelyn, in his “ Sylva,” mentions Worksop park amongst those “ sweet and delectable country seats of the nobility ” which, he says, “ everybody must have seen, admired, or heard of,” and of the noble and magnificent trees which adorned this park he thus speaks on the authority of Mr. Iialton, auditor to the then Duke of Norfolk :—“ In this park, at the corner of Bradshaw rail, lieth the bole of an oak tree, which is twenty-nine feet about, and would be found thirty if it could be measured, because it lieth upon the ground ; and the length of the bole is ten feet, and no arm or branch upon it. In the same park at the Whitegate, a tree did stand, that was from bough end to bough end (that is, from the extreme ends of two opposite boughs) one-hundred-and-eighty feet, which is witnessed by Jo. Magson and Geo. Hall, and measured by them both. The content of ground upon which this tree perpendicularly drops, is above 2827 square yards, which is above half-an-acre of ground : and the assigning of three square yards for an horse, there may 942 be well said to stand in this compass. In the same park (after many hundreds sold and carried away) there is a tree which did yield quarter-cliff bottoms, that were a yard square ; and there is one of them to be seen at Worksop at this day (1700,) and some tables made of this said quarter-cliffs likewise. In the same park, in the place called there the Hawk’s Nest, are trees forty feet long So ^hc ft}anoi] JjJousc and Jfaj|h. of timber, which will bear two feet square at the top end, or height of forty feet.” tt In another place he adds, “ And my worthy friend Leonard Pickney, Esq., lately first clerk of His Majesty’s kitchen, did assure me, that one, John Garland, built a very handsome barn, containing five bays, with pan, posts, beams, spars, &c., of one sole tree, growing in Worksop Park.” The fine old oaks, beeches, and cedars around the mansion are well worthy of notice. One tree which stood at the west-corner of the house well deserves mention. It was a noble beech covering iooo square yards, and contained upwards of forty tons of wood. This magnificent tree was blown down May 30th, 1865. a “ Sylva.” Hunters Edit. Vol 11, p. 198. CHAPTER VI. Inin lets in ijjt ^nrislj nf ffitarkanp. Sijtrcoalts. R^gjSs|PIIREOAKS, no doubt, derived its name from a group of oak trees which stood at the lll^y junction of the three counties of Derby Nottingham, and York. The survivor of these is specially described by Evelyn in his “ Sylva,” as a tree of remarkable size. Its site was not at the point marked in the Ordnance and other modern maps, to the west of Steetley, but near the corner of Shireoaks Park, where the road formerly branched off to that village from the Steetley lane. It is here, therefore, that we must look for the true ancient point of convergence of the counties. This fact appears to be conclusively established by the survey of John Harrison , made in 1636, where, describing the fields of the Steetley Farm, he not only tells us that those in this direction were bounded on the north by a part of Yorkshire, but expressly states that “ the last field towards Holm Car, ‘called Shireoakc field', abutteth upon Shircoakc towards the East.” The Prior of Worksop obtained a charter of free warren, * 14 Edward I., among other places in u Dugdalc's Monasticon. Last edit. “ Worksop Priory.” $hitieoafcs. “ Shiraks,” which is there described as in “ Yorkshere,” i.e. no doubt, the upper part of the park and Scratta, where the sporting ground would be. This entirely agrees with the survey above-named. The manor or grange of Shireoaks formed part of the possessions of the Priory of Worksop, to which it was given by Emma de Lovetot, the founder’s wife, and her gift was confirmed and increased by her son Richard. In 1458, the Prior and convent leased their grange or manor here, to Henry Ellis, Esq., and Dame Luce, his wife, for the term of twelve years, a fac simile of which lease is here given ; the original lease was in the possession of the late Richard Rawlinson, L.L. D., F.R.S., and is now in the Bodlein Library. After the dissolution of the Priory, King Henry VIII, in the 38th year of his reign, A.D., 1546, granted the manor or grange of “ Sherokes,’’ in the hamlet of Sherokes, in the parish of Work- csoppe, in the county of Nottingham, to Robert Thornhill and Hugh Thornhill, from whom it passed to the family of Hewet by purchase. The Hewets were a family of considerable antiquity at the neighbouring villages of Wales and Killamarsh : several of them acquired great wealth as cloth- workers in London, about the time of Queen Elizabeth. Of these was Sir William Hewet, Lord Mayor in 1559-60; who, through his only child, a daughter, became the ancestor of the Osbornes, after¬ wards Dukes of Leeds, and greatly enriched and elevated that family, conferring on them, among other estates, property in Harthill and Wales. It seems however, to have been Thomas, the brother of Sir William, also a London merchant, who was the purchaser of the Shireoaks estate, since, by his will, made in 1575, he leaves this property to his son Henry. «_ tAe ' /n< v- and t'anretd 0 / //ydej&fyi £tm..<~/l'otU/yAam. toCYCen ('fyfj and 4/J //yt f’/ s/tt f/mnnyt C 7/lannar a/>dcAyrvfa tn "l/tyrA&uyyi 24j6t/ui //5, %>tfi **{ « OT S*"4pj Z J 7 .'' , $hj ^ ' ■ ■ ■ > :i ' "ir • v ; 4 T ?i * '•* ^ Vm*. , fx> virJ^iQt* T 4/v ^o-iOtiy r.»J4 ■ ■ , ^ > | >fV^ '-'{^rcibi Aj f | r c^,l, ^/i ">V **)>"' t/J ^ r ) N * ^1 rV % Jjjf^ -»';\ ^-ff o)^> :’-(>'-Ao £<> KK&PVtf 4 C ; •'•> ^ o-r 4|/-o^> ' v'^f 7i-o %^*j5k> -J] t >'ty+ 7 • ',, H\, t cy *?„"■- v f .'^4 , $hit}eoahs. »3 Henry appears to have married a daughter of a distant relative, another Sir W. Hewet, of Killamarsh and London, a rich merchant, who died in 1599, and was buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral, where a pompous tomb and epitaph were placed to his memory; while Some wit of the day supplied another epitaph, which has been preserved, 0 and being at once both very brief and caustic it may be worth repeating “ Here lyes rich Hewet, a gentleman of note : For why ? He gave three owls in his coate. b Ye see he is buried in the church of Saint Paul : He was wise, because rich, and now you know all.” Henry Hewet was the father of the first Sir Thomas Hewet of Shireoaks, who was high sheriff of the county of Nottingham in the third year of Charles I., and died in 1660, and was buried at Work¬ sop. Sir Thomas had a numerous family, all of whom, however, he survived, when the property, it seems, came to his great-nephew, another Sir Thomas Hewet, who was born September 9, 1656, and died April 9, 1726, and was buried at Wales. This latter Sir Thomas spent much of his early life abroad, where he seems to have acquired great taste in architecture and landscape gardening, and it is intimated that he was rather loose in his opinions on religious subjects. He was Surveyor-General of Woods to King William III, and of Works to George the 1st. He appears to have made very extensive alterations and improvements at Shireoaks, having rebuilt much of the house, formed several fine avenues, cascades, and fishponds, &c., as well as having erected a costly banqueting house in the wood a Camden's Remains, p. 404, Ed. 1657, b Alluding to the arms of the Hewets gu. a chevron, between three owls argent. A halflength portrait on panel of this Sir William Hewet was formerly in the posses¬ sion of the Duke of Leeds, at Kiveton. Bray's Tour , 1783. 84 jjShi^eoaks. of Scratta.® He seems also to have formed or enlarged the deer-park, and altogether to have made Shireoaks Hall a very beautiful residence. Some faint traces of its ancient glory are even yet resting upon it, though it is now reduced to the condition of a farm¬ house, and its park enclosed for cultivation. Sir Thomas Hewet had a daughter, his only child, whom he disinherited in consequence of her having so tradition says, married a gipsy or fortune-teller. His estates he left, in the first place, to his godson, John Thornhaugh, Esq., of Osberton, for his life, who, upon coming into possession of the property assumed the surname of Hewet; afterwards, to the eldest surviving son of his distant relative, the Rev. John Hewet, the rector of Harthill. Accordingly, upon the death of Mr. Thornhaugh Hewet, Shireoaks and other property came to another Rev. John Hewet, who had already succeeded his father in the rectory of Harthill. These Hewets, three of whom, in lineal descent, held that comfortable benefice for the long period of 117 years, appear to have been derived from a branch of family which had settled at Eccles, in Lancashire, though their exact connexion with the Wales and Killamarsh stock is not quite apparent. A direct ancestor of the rectors was a Rev. Dr. John Hewet, a very popular divine in London in the days of Charles the 1st, and one of the chaplains of that king. He was a devoted Royalist, and lost his life a Scratby may be derived from a proper name Scrat , or it may be due to religious ideas. The old Norse Skratti corresponds with the Teutonic Schrat, who was a wild and rough spirit of the wood, and may in some respects be compared with the faries and satyrs of Rome or Greece. Old Scratch , our popular name for the Devil, has been transferred to him from this demon of Scandinavian and Teutonic anti¬ quity ; and the name of Scratta- wood, still found on the borders of Nottingham¬ shire and Derbyshire, is doubtless as old as the time of the Scandinavian colonists of that part of the country. This Scratta-wood is not a place of human habitation, but a mere wood. During the present century a single house was built, but has since fallen into complete decay ; and in the popular belief of the neighbourhood, is still haunted. Vide Edinburgh Review, April, i860, English Local Nomenclature, by Robert Pash ley, Esq., q.c. fj5hu|eoabs. §5 for holding correspondence with the exiled family, having been beheaded on Tower Hill, June 8, 1659. The late Mr. Hewet, of Shireoaks, was the fourth in descent from this divine. Mr. Hewet was never married: he died December 30, 1811, at the advanced age of eighty-nine years, at Shireoaks Hall, where he had resided from the time that he came into possession of the property, and was buried in the chapel which he had built and endowed at the hamlet. About a year before his death he conveyed by deed of gift, reserving a life interest to himself, his estates to John Wheatley, the younger son of his niece. Wheatley never came into posses¬ sion of them, having immediately sold the reversion to Mr. Vincent Eyre, the agent of Charles, Duke of Norfolk, to whom Shireoaks was then conveyed. With the successor of that nobleman, Shireoaks con¬ tinued till it was sold in 1842, together with the Worksop manor estate,to the then Duke of Newcastle, with whose representatives it still continues. In the farmyard attached to the Hall there still exist some interesting remains of the Priory Grange, in the form of curious ancient barns and stables, and especially a portion of the house, having a beautiful three-light window of the 14th century. In May 1854, the late Duke of Newcastle com¬ menced sinking at Shireoaks two shafts, and on February 1st, 1859, at a depth of 510 yards, the “ Top Hard Coal,” three feet ten inches thick was arrived at, as the result of five years of single-handed perseverance on the part of the late lamented Duke of Newcastle. The coal was found to be of very superior quality for steam purposes ; a medal was awarded to the noble Duke at the Exhibition of 1862, for proving the existence of a large coal field under the Permian measures, and the coal was placed on the 86 $hit]eoahs. Royal Navy list. After working the colliery suc¬ cessfully for five years, during which a model row of colliers’ houses were built, the undertaking was sold and leased to the Shireoaks Colliery Company, whose extensive works have quite altered the former quiet and peaceful features of the village, in place of which activity now prevails. With the view of providing for the spiritual wants of the increased population of the village, the late Duke of Newcastle built the present church ; the foundation-stone was laid by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, October 18th, 1861, and it was opened October 15th, 1863. The church is of English Gothic of the 14th cen¬ tury, and consists of a clerestoried nave, north and south aisles, an apsidal chancel, and a lofty tower surmounted by a broached spire. The tower occupies a central position between the nave and chancel, and is flanked by an organ recess on the north side, and by a vestry on the south. It is supported on mas¬ sive piers and pointed arches of considerable height ; the latter being deeply moulded and springing from clustered marble shafts on richly-carved corbels, contribute in no slight degree to the general effect of the interior. The extreme length of the church is 108 feet, and the breadth 46 feet. The windows throughout are of geometric patterns ; they have traceried heads, and are surmounted by a hood mould terminating in carved bosses. The roofs are of good pitch and are open timbered, the flat spaces between the spars been filled with ornamental stencilling; painted de¬ coration is also applied to the walls in the form of inscriptions. The church is fitted up with open benches, those in the chancel together with the communion table and lectern being of oak and of elaborate detail. The (p a t c f o t] (1. 87 walls throughout are built externally and internally of Steetley stone. The reredos is of alabaster, inlaid with Italian marbles and Derbyshire spar. It is divided into three compartments, surmounted by canopies, sup¬ ported on slender pillars richly capped. The centre division contains a basso relievo , the crucifixion of our Saviour; and the other two, saints and martyrs in adoration. In niches dividing the subjects are figures of the four Evangelists, and below, in quartrefoils, are the emblems. On the pedestals above there are re¬ presented angels, in attitudes of praise and adoration. The spandrils of the canopies are in Derbyshire spar and Italian marble, whilst the canopies of the figures are inlaid with mosaic work.” ®atcforti. Gateford is a hamlet belonging to Worksop, distant from the latter place about two miles to the north. It is situated on the Turnpike Road leading to Sheffield, and from the circumstance of the whole of its houses standing on one side of the road, it has given rise to an old local proverb, “ Like Gateford, all on one side.”—It is not mentioned in the Domesday survey, as when that survey was made, it was evidently included in the manor of Worksop. It was very early subin-feuded, probably by William de Lovetot the 1st, to a family who derived their surname from it. Thus, in the charter of foundation of Worksop Priory among the attesting witnesses appear Gilbert de Gaytef, and to the quitclaim of Matilda de Lovetot to that establishment, William de Gateford. John de Gateford, in the 6th year of Edward the ill, held the fourth part of a knight’s fee in Gateford, nigh Worksop, of Thomas de Eurnival; and Thomas de Gaytcford held the manor of Gayteford, in the 40th a Mr. Hinc, of Nottingham, was the architect. 88 (patcfoijd. year of the same reign, of the same lords, by the same service. “ The acknowledgment of dependence upon the lords of Worksop may be traced to the year 1636, where, in Harrison s survey, among the rents of that manor appears the following entry, “ Gate- firth, Sir George Lascelles, for his chief rent out of Gaytforth, £5 4s. 8d.” The de Gatefords held the property more than 300 years, when the last of that name, John Gaitford, seems to have left two daughters, one of whom was married to Thomas Knight, Esq., and the other to John Townley, knight; for as we learn from Thoroton, in 16th year of Henry VII, a fine was levied settling the property there and in many other places, first upon Elizabeth, the wife of T. Knight, and his heirs, and next upon the wife of John Townley, and his heirs. It would seem that the heirs of the former shortly parted with their share, for, as we learn from Lcland, when he made one of his Iteneries in the following reign, Townley was then in possession. His words are, “ Within a good mile or so I cam to Worsop (from Rotherham). I rode through a parke of Mr. Townies, a knight, for the most abiding in Lancastreshire, and in this, parke is a veri praty litle howse.” To the Townleys, the family of Lascelles very shortly suc¬ ceeded, and resided here for a considerable time in great respectability as a knightly family. They appear to have been warm supporters of the reformed principles in religion, and one of the house, John Lascelles, perished at the stake at the same time with Anne Askew, as a martyr to that faith. The last of the family, Sir George Lascelles, of Gateford and Sturton, had an only daughter and heiress, who was married to Sir Francis Rodes, of Barlborough, into which family the property was thus conveyed. With the Rodes’s it remained till more a See Thoroton s Nottinghamshire. Bated if fe. 89 than half-a-century ago; it was sold by the then Mr. Rodes, of Barlborough, and the farms were purchased by the tenants. The Hall farm was bought by the family of Vessey, from whom, after the death of the last of that name, Miss Vessey, at the ven¬ erable age of 96, it was inherited by the late Henry Machin, Esq. Mr. Machin, who was high sheriff of the county in 1832, built a good house here in 1824, which he called Gateford Hill, being situated in an elevated and pleasant site to the north of the old Hall. This latter is represented by the ancient farm-house which was formed out of its remains and stands near the road. It was moated round, and part of the moat still remains. Mr. Machin was succeeded here by his son, the pre¬ sent J. Vessey Machin, Esq., who resides at the Hill, and they having purchased the rest of the farms as well as the other property at Gateford adjoining, have formed a very nice estate. Matcliffr. This, too, is a hamlet of Worksop, situated about two miles to the west of the town, beyond the Worksop Manor House. There is nothing memorable about its history. At the time of Harrison's survey it was let in several farms, some of the fields towards the west chiefly, are spoken of as bounded by the lands of Gilbert Smith, and on the north by those of John Snowden. It seems probable that these latter con¬ stituted the estate of what is now called Harness Grove, which, however, is not mentioned by that name in the survey. At this latter place is a genteel resi¬ dence of considerable antiquity, which has been re¬ cently enlarged. It is now the residence of Henry S. Hodding, Esq. Separated from Harness Grove by 7 9 ° $losuiichs. the turnpike road to Chesterfield is Darfolds, an ancient farm on the Manor estate. Its name would seem to imply that it was a deer or cattle fold of the Lord of the Manor. In the orchard of the farm¬ house is a well of fine water, which formerly supplied Worksop Manor House, the water having been con¬ veyed thither by leaden pipes, which were removed when the principal part of that mansion was pulled down. £>Iosfotcfes. In the grant of Richard de Lovetot “ of the mill of Manton, &c.,” it is added, also, “the whole of Sloswick.” This is another hamlet, far distant on the west side of the town, near Welbeck. The name of this place again suggests an early settlement from Daneland, the first residents having transferred to this place a designation from their native country. Nothing is known of the intermediate history of this place till the 27 of Queen Elizabeth, who, among other things, granted it to Roger Manners and his heirs. Roger Manners was a son of Sir John Manners, a younger son of the house of Belvoir, who by his runaway marriage with Dorothy, the co-heiress of Sir George Vernon, of Haddon Hall, inherited that noble estate, and who also, on failure of the elder branch, became ancestor of the Dukes of Rutland. Roger Manners resided at the Hall at Whitwell, and was buried in the north transept of that church, where his monument still remains, with a quaint, laudator)' inscription. Sloswick afterwards became the property of the Dukes of Portland, and was exchanged by them for other property with the Duke of Norfolk. It thus became part of the Worksop Manor estate, with which it passed by purchase to the Duke of Newcastle. Hilton. 9 i Hilton. Kilton, again, is another hamlet of Worksop, situated about a mile distant to the north-east of the town. It is not mentioned in the Domesday survey, where no doubt it is included under the entry of Worksop. We find it, however, named in the early charters of Worksop Priory, of a date little later than that of the great survey ; and it seems not improbable that it was really a place of much greater antiquity, for it is observed by a great authority in such matters that places which have the prefix Kil possess a peculiar interest. “They often point out to us the earliest local centres from which proceeded the evangelization of the half-savage Celts; they direct us to the hallowed spots where the first hermit missionaries established each his lonely cell, and there spread around him the blessings of Christianity and of civilization.”” It were pleasing to think that such was the case here; and the supposition seems to involve no improbability, since the events above alluded to are of such remote anti¬ quity that all record of them may well have perished. Here, again, we know little of the subsequent history of the place for several centuries. Thoroton gives us two scraps of information on that head, the first re¬ lating to a dispute about the Kilton tenants of Sir Thomas de Furnival driving their cattle to Romwood, A.D. 1301 ; the other referring to a claim made in 8 Elizabeth, by Matthew Field and others, to certain property here, as well as at other places. From Harrison's survey, it appears that although the principal part, consisting of three farms, each having a dwelling upon it, was then the property of the Lords of Worksop, yet that Sir George Lascelles and Sir Thomas Hewet had also something here. It a Words and Places, by Taylor , p. 356. 9 2 Bayton. seems that a good deal of the land was then in undi¬ vided fields, of which each tenant had so many shares. Kilton, till recently, was entirely the property of the Duke of Newcastle, except a farm which belonged to Mr. Champion; but this, together with a portion of the duke’s land lying on the northern side, was re¬ cently purchased by the late George Savile Foljambe, Esq. This farm is occupied by Mr. W. Martin. Bauton. Rayton is another ancient hamlet of the Parish of Worksop, the property connected with which has for a considerable time been united with the Scofton estate. It formerly, however, constituted a separate domain, with its Hall and resident gentry. Indeed, we learn from the Domesday survey that before the conquest there were two manors here, respectively held by Vlsi and Archil. These, after that event, became the property of Roger, the tenant of the great Roger de Busli, whose fee it had become. There was then also another portion of land here, which was waste ; and besides these, as we have already seen speaking of Scofton, there was a part belonging to the King’s manor of Mansfield. In Domesday survey it appears under the designation of “Rolvetune” and “Rouuetone.” Very little is known of its subsequent history for several centuries ; we, however, catch a glimpse of it in a plea 30 Edward 1., referred to by Thoroton, from which it appears that “Stephen Malovel gave a messuage, 260 acres of land, and seven of meadows in Renetone, nigh Wirksop, to Alice, the wife of Ranulph de Huntingfeld, who bound himself to John de Melsa in C. marks by a statute merchant, and failing in payment the Sheriff caused the land to be extended at a reasonable price, viz., £4 9s. id., Bay ton. 93 and put the said John in seizin, in which he stood for a year and more, until the said Ranulph and Alice disseized him, &c. Upon which came William de Dogmerfeld, who said he was the King’s Bailiff of his manor of Maunsfeld, and that Renetone was a member of the King’s said manor, and the tenements put in view ; ancient demesne, &c.” a When Thoroton wrote, and for four generations previously, Rayton was the residence and the property of a branch of the widely spread family of Eyre. They originally proceeded from Hope, in the Peak of Derbyshire ; and in the early part of the 15th century Robert Eyre married the heiress of Padley, of Padley, in the same county, from whom were born eleven sons, most of whom had families. From Roger, the fourth of these, descended the Eyres of Newbold, Laughton, Grove, and Rampton ; and from Edmund another son, the Eyres of Rayton. They appear to have acquired this place by the marriage of William Eyre to Ann, the daughter and heiress of the pos¬ sessor of Rayton. At the time of Harrisons survey, 1536, Mr. Robert Eyre was the proprietor, who married a daughter of William Saunderson, of Blyth, and niece of the celebrated Dr. Robert Saunderson, Bishop of Lincoln. By this lady Mr. Eyre had a rather numerous family ; but they appear not to have continued much longer at Rayton. It afterwards became united with the Scofton estate, and is now the property of Mr. Eoljambe. The whole of it has been rented for several generations by the family of Outram, also of an ancient Derbyshire race long seated at or about Dronfield. Mr. H. Outram, the present occupant, dwells in a pleasantly situated farmhouse, which, together with two or three cottages, form the hamlet. The ancient Hall stood in a much a Thoroton in loco. 94 Canton. lower situation near the river, but of it not a stone remains. The farms of Rayton and Kilton are bounded on the north by a lane bearing the ominous name of Thievesdale, which here separates the parishes of Worksop and Carlton. Near the intersection of Thievesdale with the Blyth road at this point is Forest Hill, the pleasant residence and property of Robert Owtram, Esq., and beyond this, on more elevated ground, is Prospect Hill, a farm belonging to J. Vessey Machin, Esq. This latter place is rightly denominated, as it commands very exten¬ sive views, including, on a clear day, the distant towers of Lincoln Minster. Here, at the Ordnance survey of the country, one of the Trigometrical stations was placed. fHanton. Manton was an ancient member of the Conventual property of Worksop. It is separated from Rayton and Kilton by the river Ryton. Richard de Lovetot, the son of the founder of the Priory, gave here “the mill and the fishpond;” but either he or some one after him must have given much more, for although it is stated that Francis, Earl of Shrewsbury, after the disso¬ lution, received in exchange for other property, amongst other things, “Four acres of arable land in Manton in the Parish of Worksop, &c.,” yet it seems clear that this last item—the &c .—must be accepted in a very expansive sense, unless some subsequent grant or pur¬ chase was made ; for at the time of Han'isou’s survey in 1636, within a century of the Earl of Shrewsbury’s grant, the property of the Priory here, then in pos¬ session of the descendants of the Earl, was no less, including Sheep-walks (924a. ir. 2p.), than 1284 acres. 3 b e i] t o n. 95 Manton is now a farm of the Worksop Manor estate, under the tenancy of Mr. G. R. Lucas, having a pleasantly situated and good farmhouse built about 50 years ago by the then tenant, Mr. W. Gregory. ©sfccrton. At the distance of three miles to the east of Worksop, and within the parish, is Osberton, the pleasant seat of Francis J. Savile Foljambe, Esq., M.P. for the Hundred of Basset-Lawe. It is a place of great antiquity, being noticed in the Conqueror’s survey. From that survey we learn that before the conquest there were two manors in Osberneston, as it is there written, which were of the land of the Taynes, and held by Elwine and Uluiet,paying tax for one carucate, the land being sufficient for four ploughs. At the time of the survey it was held under King William by Swan and Uluiet, who had there five sokemen, having four ploughs, and a church and 20 acres of meadow, with a considerable quantity of pasture wood. In the Confessor’s time the value was 60s.; in the Con¬ queror’s, 1 os. These manors, however, appear soon to have been swallowed up by the great fee of the De Busli family, the Lords of Tickhill; for we learn from the “ Testa de Nevil" that Osberton was then held by Malvesinus de Hercy, of the Countess of Augi or Eu, the then chief representative of the Busli family, by the service that he should be her Dispenser, or Steward, and the heirs of Alfreton had the land, and defended it by the like service. This must have been before the year 1245, when the Countess appears to have forfeited her estates. 11 a Fine Rolls, 29 Henry hi.,, a.d. 1245. 9 6 (£)$betiton. The de Alfretons were descended from one Ingram, whose name appears in Domesday as tenant of the neighbouring manor of Bilby, under Roger de Busli, as also of Norton and Alfreton in Derbyshire, from the latter of which they derived their surname. The family terminated in two heiresses in the reign of Henry ill., one of whom was married to Sir W. de Caldurcis, inChaworth; the other to Robert de Lathom, and thus she became the ancestress of the present Earls of Derby. Robert Fitz Ranalph, of this family, who was founder of Beauchief Abbey, gave the church of Osberton to the Priory of Worksop in 1183, and in 1216 it was appropriated by Walter Gray, Archbishop of York, to that monastery. The gift of Robert was confirmed by his son William, and afterwards by Thomas de Chaworth, who had inherited this portion of the de Alfreton’s property. The latter also con¬ firmed other gifts of land here made by his ancestors, especially that lying between Appelhayheved (Appley- head) and the wood of Osberton.. The Chaworths appear to have long continued in possession of such of the property at Osberton as had not been alienated to Worksop Priory. For in 31, Henry vill., Thomas Dynham, gentleman, claimed, among other things, the third part of the manor here of Joan Fitz William, who was part heiress of the Chaworth family. As relates to Osberton Grange, the monastic pro¬ perty here, King Henry VIII., 3 July, 32 of his reign, granted it to Robert Dighton, Esq., one of the jobbers in the estates of the dissolved religious houses. In the same year Dighton had licence to alienate all houses, buildings, and hereditaments in Osberton, Hardwick, and Worksop, belonging to it, to Richard Whalley and his heirs; and all mess: lands and tene¬ ments in Osberton Grange, &c., and the houses, &c., in Osberton, &c., to William Bolles and his heirs. i^sberjon. 97 It would seem that the Bolles ultimately became possessed of the whole of Osberton, where they lived for several generations in great respectability. Thomas Bolles, of this place, was Sheriff of the County, 8 Chas. I., and Samuel Bolles seems to have been an active magistrate in the time of the Commonwealth before whom, as appears from the parish register, the parishioners of Worksop were in those days married. Samuel Bolles died 1657. From the Bolles, the estate came by marriage, to the Leeks, of Halum, and when Thoroton wrote, 1677, there were of that family “a son or two to preserve the inheritance.” The next possessors of Osberton were the family of Thornhaugh, which had been seated for several gene¬ rations at Fenton in this county; and from the last of these, John Thornhaugh, Esq., who had assumed the nameof Hewet, he havinginheritedShireoaks and other property as a life interest under the will of the last Sir Thomas Hewet, it descended, by the marriage of his daughter, to Francis Ferrard Foljambe, Esq. The Foljambes are a very ancient family, residing in early times in the Peak of Derbyshire, where they held offices of great trust under the Crown, and after¬ wards under the Duchy of Lancaster. Thomas Foljambe represented that county in Parliament, in 25th of King Edward I., and his descendants fre¬ quently attained to the same honour. They were long residents of Walton Hall, in the Parish of Chester¬ field, which they inherited by marriage from the family of Loudham. Their next chief residence was at Aldwark, near Rotherham, of which they became possessed in like manner from an alliance with the ancient house of F'itz-William, of that place. Mr. F. F. Foljambe, who was sheriff for the county of York in 1787, and afterwards member of Parlia- 98 l?)$bci]ton. ment for the same county, upon his coming into the inheritance of the Osberton estate, made it his chief residence. He greatly enlarged and improved the house, and having purchased the Scofton estate, from which Osberton is separated by the little river Ryton, he laid out the grounds, which are well wooded, so as to produce a very pleasing landscape. Mr. F. F. Foljambe died in 1814, and was succeeded by his grandson, the late much respected George Savile Foljambe, Esq., who on attaining his majority a few years afterwards, made Osberton his residence till the time of his death, which took place December 18th, 1869. Mr. G. S. Foljambe was high sheriff for the county of Notting¬ ham in 1826. He ever bore the character of a liberal landlord and high-minded country gentleman, ready to contribute to every good work. In his earlier life he was a keen sportsman, especially in the hunting field, having for many years been owner and master of the celebrated Sandbeck pack of hounds ; and though in later years he was long afflicted with the loss of sight, he is understood, even to the last', to have had a keen interest in his former pursuits. He still further im¬ proved the grounds round Osberton, by throwing open the fields between the house and the Retford Road, and by screeningoff the latter with a belt of trees. While the ground was being trenched preparatory to the planting of these trees, closetothethird milestone from Worksop, a pot of Roman coins was found. These were small brass ones of the Constantine family ; and as further evidence of the former occupation of this district by the Romans, it may be mentioned, that about two miles to the East of this spot, within property belonging to the Mason family, in December, 1802, 62 copper and 29 silver Roman coins were found. A similar find was also made at Shireoaks some years back of small brass coins, of the lower empire. The most i|)sbe}|ton. 99 essential improvement made by the late Mr. Foljambe to his Osberton estate consisted in the erection and endowment of a church, which has proved a great con¬ venience to his family and tenants, who were several miles distant from the Parish Church of Worksop. The church is placed on a spot adjoining the pleasure grounds of the Hall, but on the Scofton side of the water. It is a neat fabric, in the Norman style of architecture, consisting of a tower at the west end, a nave with aisles, and a chancel, the east windows of which are enriched in stained glass, with the armorial bearings of the Foljambe family and its alliances. The late Mr. Foljambe was twice married—first to a daughter of Sir William Milner, of Nun Appleton, Bart. ; secondly, to the Viscountess Milton, widow of the late Viscount Milton, and daughter of the Earl of Liverpool. By this lady he has left several children, and by the former wife an only son, Francis J. Savile P'oljambe, Esq., who has succeeded to the family estates. Upon his father’s death, Mr. Foljambe, who had before lived at the ancient family mansion at Aldwark, took up his residence at Osberton. Before taking our leave of this place, we may mention that the house contains a museum, formed by F. F. Foljambe, Esq. Its principal feature is a nearly perfect collection of British birds. This collec¬ tion contains a specimen of the now extinct bird, the Great Auk, and its egg. There are also some interest¬ ing antiquarian objects, such as a Roman altar, found on the family estate at Littleborough, the ancient Segelocum of Antoninus. But perhaps the most interesting article, especially as connected with the family, is the curious carved stone representing the assassination of Thomas a’ Beckett, a woodcut of which is given as a tail-piece at the end of this chapter. This is stated, and not improbably, to have 100 $cof ton. formed an altar piece in Beauchief Abbey. From the coats of arms which it bears, both impaled and separate, viz., sab, a bend between 6 escallops or for Foljambe; and gules, 6 fleurs de lis, 3, 2, 1 arg. for Ireland, there can be no doubt that it was a gift of Sir Godfrey Foljambe and his wife Avice or Anne, daughter of — Ireland, of Hazlethorn. The same arms, with half length figures of a knight and lady on a mural monument, appear in the south aisle of Bakewell Church, where Sir Godfrey founded a chantry. He died in 1375, having long been chief seneschal to the great John of Gaunt, “time-honoured Lancaster.” Srofton. Separated from Osberton by the river Ryton, which is here expanded into the semblance of a broad stream, thus producing a most pleasing effect in the landscape when viewed in conjunction with its well- wooded margin, is Scofton, which though now merely an adjunct to the Hall of Osberton, was formerly a separate domain, with its resident proprietors. It is noted in the Domesday survey, together with Torp (unknown ; perhaps Perlthorp) and Rouueton (Ray- ton), as an outlying member of the King’s manor of Mansfield. It is there written Scotebi , and the latter portion of which word, “ by,”* seems to savour of there having been a settlement of Norsemen here in early times, as the former part appears to indicate that its first residents were derived from Scotland. We know, however, very little of the early history of this place. Thoroton refers to a writ of false judgment in 21 a The same may be said of Bilby, Ranby, and Budby in this neighbourhood, and also of Thoresby, which seems to have taken its special designation from the great Scandinavian God of War, “ Thor.” $cof ton. 10T Henry VIII., between Elizabeth Fenton, widow, against John Hill and others, concerning three mes¬ suages, 200 acres of land—-40 of meadow, 20 of pasture, 4 of wood, and 10s. rent, with the appurte¬ nances here, in the King’s Court of Mansfield, in Sherwood. He adds the prime capital messuage in Scofton hath for some time belonged to the Jessops. These Jessops were of Broomhall, in the parish of Sheffield, which they inherited by marriage from the Swifts. The principal member of the family, who resided at Scofton, seems to have been Wortley Jessop, who was the heir of his house, but who died before his father, having been lost at sea in his pas¬ sage from Ireland in 1617. He made his will at Scofton, April 13, 1615, which was proved before the Steward of the Manor of Mansfield, thus showing that the connection of Scofton with that court still existed. After the Jessops, Scofton came into possession of Joseph Banks, who was in his early life a very eminent attorney at Sheffield, and agent to the Dukes of Nor¬ folk, Leeds, and Newcastle. Mr. Banks soon acquired a large fortune, and became the purchaser of this place, where he came to reside, as well as of a large property at Reevesby Abbey, in Lincolnshire, where he was buried in 1727. He sat in one Parliament for Grimsby, and in another for Totness. He was the great grandfather of the Rt. Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, K.G.C. of the Bath, and Baronet, long president of the Royal Society. Scofton next came into the hands of a branch of the Sutton family, it having been purchased by Briga¬ dier Richard Sutton, a younger son of the ancient house of that name, and a resident at Avesham and Kelham in this county. It is related, that some delay having arisen in 102 Baiidwich. delivering over the property to the General after his purchase,he, being mindful of the old adage that “ pos¬ session is nine points of the law,” and being in command of some troops in the neighbourhood, sent a body of men to take and occupy the Hall. Major-General Sutton died in August, 1737, and was buried at Avesham. He was succeeded by his eldest son Robert, whose grandson, Robert William Evelyn Sutton, Esq., of Scofton, sold the estate to the Foljambes. The Hall stood very near the site of the present church, and appears from drawings to have been a very pleasant residence. Besides the church, Scofton contains the kitchen gardens of Osberton Hall, together with part of the pleasure grounds, the head keeper’s residence, the schools, and a number of cottages; as also the well-regulated farm establis- ment, from whence of late so many sheep and oxen have gained prizes at our great National Agricultural Exhibitions. This, again, is an ancient hamlet of Worksop Parish, distant about four miles from the town to the South East, situated a mile from Clumber House, near the head of the lake. It is not mentioned in the Domesday survey, but, no doubt, it formed part of one of the two manors there said to have existed before the conquest in Clumber. These, after that event, became part of the fee of Roger de Busli, and not long subsequently were subin-feuded, or at least much of them, to the family of Lovetot, together with the manor of Work¬ sop, &c. Richard de Lovetot, the son of the founder of the Priory of Worksop, by his charter confirmed the gifts of his father to that monastry, among other Baiplujich. !°3 things, of “two bovates of land in Herthwik at Utware,” so designated to distinguish it from another ware (weir) or dam, no doubt for the supply of a mill in Worksop called Inware, in these charters. A mill is noted in Domesday as pertaining to one of the manors at Clumber. Matilda de Lovetot, the great heiress of the family, confirms the grant of her ancestors of “the whole village of Herthwik.” a It thus had become the property of Worksop Priory ; and in the 14th Edward I. a charter of free warren was granted to the Prior of that house in this place, as well as in Shireoaks. Nothing further appears to be known of its history till the time of the dissolution of monastries, when, in the “ Valor Ecclesiasticus" of the 26th Henry vm., it is mentioned with property at Osberton, with which it then went, also at Clumber and Haughton—thus “ The graunge of Osberton, iij^., Hardwyk Walke Mylne, xxvjs. viijd.; rent of Idaugh, vijs. vjd., Hardwyk Graunge, iijik, and Clumber Graunge, xiijs. iiijd. These two latter granges may not improbably have represented the two old Saxon manors. It was granted 3rd July, 32 Henry VIII., together with Osberton Grange and other property, to Robert Dighton, Esq., and his heirs, who shortly afterwards obtained a licence to alienate Hardwick Grange and wood, with all houses, &c., in Osberton and Hardwick, and Worksop, to Richard Whalley, and his heirs ; and all messuages, lands, and other houses in Osberton Grange, Hardwick, &c., to William Bolles, and his heirs. P'rom some or other of their representatives it was acquired, it is presumed by purchase, by the ancestors of the present noble proprietor, and has since formed a part of the estates of Haughton and Clumber. Here the home-farm of Clumber House has long been situated ; and the late a Mon. Angl. 104 Jjla tjdwick. Duke of Newcastle, from a humane consideration for his labourers, many of whom lived at a distance, erected a group of cheerful and comfortable cottages. As already stated, Hardwick stands at the head of Clumber Lake, which from this point, its best view, presents a very fine expanse of water, with well- wooded margins. These different objects, with the house seen in the distance, form altogether a very pleasing landscape. C LU M B E R CHAPTER VII. (Ctamlrcr, uni its |5ark. E now proceed to CLUMBER, the seat of the Duke of Newcastle ; and should the tourist be on foot, he will find a very pleasant walk across the “Netherton Fields” to where the wind-mill stands, from whence he will have one of the finest views of Worksop and its neighbourhood, ex¬ tending for many miles, and terminating with the spire of Laughton-en-le-Morthen Church. Following the path to the right, through the fields with the woods in front, the visitor will soon arrive in the Park. The carriage road to Clumber lies direct through the town, up Sparken Hill, along the Ollerton Road. Pursuing this road about half-a-mile, a carriage road to the left, through a wood, will bring him to the Lodge Gates ; and in a few minutes the rich effect of the fine plantations, intersected at this time (July) with the golden-flowered gorse, and the various tints of the surrounding woodland scenery, opens upon his view. Clumber is mentioned in Domesday Book, and when that survey was taken, Roger de Busli had two manors there. It also contained three bovates, which were of the King’s manor of Mansfield. With other great estates in Nottinghamshire, it came into the family of the present Duke of Newcastle, by a marriage of one of his Grace’s ancestors. Sir io6 (fSlumbeq, and its J?ar ; k. William Cavendish was created Baron Ogle and Viscount Mansfield in 1620, Baron Cavendish, of Bol- sover, in 1628; Earl Ogle and Duke of Newcastle in 1644. He wrote a work on horsemanship, and was the builder of the large Riding House at Welbeck, where he resided. He died in 1676, and was suc¬ ceeded by his son, Henry Cavendish, who married the daughter of William Pierrepont, Esq., of Thoresby Hall, and died in 1691, when, he having no male issue, the titles became extinct. Margaret, one of his daughters and co-heiresses, married John Holies, fourth Earl of Clare, who, in 1691, was created Marquis of Clare and Duke of Newcastle. Before his marriage the Earl lived at Haughton, and afterwards at Welbeck. He was made steward, keeper, and warden of Sherwood Forest, and of the park of Fulwood ; and in August, 1707, he received a license from the Crown, signed “Godolphin,” to en¬ close 3,000 acres of “ his own land of inheritance” at Clumber, to make a park for the Queen’s use, and in January, 1709, he received permission to appro¬ priate the timber of a cutting 80 yards wide through Birkland to meet the expenses of enclosing the same park. He was also to have a salary of £1,000 per annum for bearing the expense of the park and the office of Ranger thereof, with the herbage of the same, and free chase and free warren during her Majesty’s life. Then he was allowed to have the land again as his “land of inheritance,” with all the fences, lodges, and other buildings, &c.“ He died by a fall from his horse while hunting at Welbeck July 15th, 1711. He bequeathed his estates to his sister’s son, Thomas Pelham, second Baron Pelham, of Laugh¬ ton, in Sussex, who assumed the name of Holies, and in 1714 was constituted Lord-Lieutenant of a Harley MSS. 2264, f. 56, and 2264, f. 124. the counties of Middlesex and Nottingham ; steward, keeper, and warden of the Forest of Sherwood and park of Fulwood; also created Earl of Clare and Viscount Haughton. In 1715 he was created Marquis of Clare and Duke of Newcastle in county Northum¬ berland, and in 1756 Duke of Newcastle-under-Lyme in county Stafford, with a special remainder to the heirs of his brother, the Right Hon. Henry Pelham, and of his sister Lady Lucy Pelham, who married Henry Clinton, seventh Earl of Lincoln. He, with his brother Henry Pelham, formed what is known as the Newcastle Administration in the reigns of George I. & II. He stood godfather with the King, by his Majesty’s special com¬ mand, to the Prince of Wales’s son. November 28, 1711. He was Secretary of State 30 years, and Lord of the Treasury nearly 10 years. In 1748 he was elected Chancellor of the University of Cam¬ bridge, “ learning poetry and eloquence, as Smollett says, joining their efforts in celebrating the shining virtues and extraordinary talents of their new patron.” He died in 1768, and all his titles became extinct, except those of Duke of New¬ castle-under-Lyme and Baron Pelham of Stan- mere, which descended with his niece, Catherine, to Henry Fiennes Clinton, ninth Earl of Lincoln, who assumed the name of Pelham, and died in 1794. His son, Thomas Pelham Clinton, died in the following year, having married Anna Maria,daughterof William, Earl of Harrington, and was succeeded by his son Henry, the fourth Duke, who married Georgiana, daughter of Edward Miller Mundy, Esq., of Shipley, and, dying January 12th, 1851, was succeeded by the Most Noble Henry Fiennes Pelham Clinton, fifth Duke of Newcastle and Earl of Lincoln, who was born in i8ir. He married Lady Susan Hamilton, daughter of Alexander, tenth Duke of Hamilton. io8 (flumbetj, and its l?at|k. He took an active part in the political affairs of the country, and died October 18, 1864, when he was succeeded by his son the present Duke, who was born 25th January, 1834. His Grace married Henrietta Adela, daughter of the late Henry Thomas Hope, Esq., and has issue Henry Pelham Pelham Archibald Douglas,Earl of Lincoln, born September 22, 1864, and other children. The family of Clinton is said to be de¬ scended from William de Villa Trancredi, who married Maud, daughter of William de Arches, whose descent was derived from Wevia, sister to Gunnora, Duchess of Normandy. William de Villa Trancredi had three sons, Osbert, Renebald, and William; and Renebald having the gift of the lordship of Clinton in Oxford¬ shire, now called Glimpton, assumed that name and resided there. He had two sons, Geffrey and William. Geffrey de Clinton was Lord Chamberlain and Treasurer to King Henry 1st, and amongst other lands obtained the Lordship of Kenilworth, in the county of Warwick, where he .erected a castle and founded a monastery for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine. To Geffrey de Clinton succeeded Geffrey, his son and heir, temp. Henry II., who had a son Henry, who d. s. p., when the descendant of William, brother of the first Geffrey, in the person of Thomas de Clinton (son of Osbert, son of Osbert, son of William), who in 7 Henry I. was a minor on the death of his father, succeeded as next heir male. This Thomas de Clinton was succeeded by Thomas, his son and heir, who had issue John de Clinton, of Maxstoke, county Warwick, temp. Edward II., who had issue John, of Maxstoke, and William, who was created Earl of Huntingdon, but d. s. p. m. John, the eldest son, however, left a son and heir, who married Idonea, sister and co-heiress of William, Lord Saye, by whom he left a son and heir John, a minor at the time of his death, which took place 8 Edward IT. The latter John was summoned to Parliament as a Baron in the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th of Edward III. Sir John de Clinton, third Lord Clinton, served in the wars under Edward III., and was succeeded 1397 by William, his grand¬ son and heir, as fourth lord, who served in the wars against France and Scotland in the reigns of Henry IV., V., & VI. William, fourth Lord Clinton and Saye, died 1431, and was succeeded by John, his son, fifth lord, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Richard Fiennes, Lord Dacre of the South, and had a son John, sixth lord, who was succeeded by Thomas, seventh lord, who left a son Thomas, eighth Lord Clinton, who dying 1517 left Edward his son, five years old. Edward, ninth Lord Clinton, was created 1571 Earl of Lincoln, and died 1584 or 1585, being succeeded by Henry, his son, as second earl. Thomas, his eldest son, was summoned to Parliament in his father’s lifetime 1616, and succeeded him as third earl, and dying 1618 was succeeded by Theophilus, his son, as fourth earl, who was succeeded 1667 by his grandson Edward, fifth Earl of Lincoln (his son Edward d. s. p., but he dying without issue in 1692 was succeeded by his father’s second cousin Francis Clinton as sixth earl. (He was grandson of Sir Edward Clinton, younger brother of Thomas, third earl). He died 1693, and was succeeded by Henry, his son, seventh Earl of Lincoln, who married Lady Lucy, sister to Thomas Holies Pelham, Duke of New¬ castle, and dying 1728 left George, eighth earl, his successor, who died 1730, aged 13, and was succeeded by Henry, his brother, as ninth earl. He married his cousin Catherine, daughter of the Right Hon. Henry Pelham, brother of the before-mentioned Duke of Newcastle, to whose title lie succeeded on his death in 1768 without issue in virtue of the limitation of the patent. He took the additional name of Pelham before that of Clinton, and from him descends the present Duke, as stated above. Rogerj Climpton, or I ! O (f51umbet[, and its Jfaqh. Clinton, was Bishop of Coventry from 1127 to 1148. During the successive reigns of the Edwards and Henrys the family of Clinton were much distinguished in warfare. They were strong adherents of the Yorkists in the wars of the Roses, and they fell and rose again with the fortunes of that party. Clumber park contains about 4,000 acres, 87 of which, being covered with water, constitute the Lake. This was begun in 1774, and finished in 1789, at a total cost of £6,6 12 8s. 9d. The house, which was built about 1770, occupies a central position on the north side of the lake, has been said to “ embrace more magnificence and comfort than any other nobleman’s seat in England.” It is certainly not so large as many others, but the taste displayed in and about this mansion is of a very high order: it may be said to be a second Chatsworth. The house consists of three fronts, and in the centre of that which faces the lake there is a very light Ionic colonnade, surmounted by .the ducal arms, which has a very pleasing effect. The south front is orna¬ mented with four niches, containing four beautiful white marble statues, emblematical of the four seasons; the angles of the house are surmounted with sixteen fine vases. The terrace, which extends to the lake, is connected with the latter by two flights of steps. It is in the Italian style, and the vases and figures are arranged in a very effective manner. The very fine white marble fountain in the centre came from Italy. The lower or large basin is twelve feet six inches in diameter; above this is a smaller basin, four feet in diameter, supported by four dolphins; from the top of this basin a fountain throws up its crystal sprays, and has a very beautiful effect. The block of marble from which this basin was made weighed fifty tons when got from the quarry. The terrace is beautifully laid out with ornamental flower beds, and the flowers (fdumbetp and its Jfatih. hi with which they and the colonnade are decorated are very choice and beautiful. From the terrace there is a delightful walk for upwards of a quarter of a mile on the side of the lake. It is tastefully kept, and embraces a great variety of scenery. The cedars of Lebanon, the yew, the Canadian pine, and silver fir trees are colossal and beautiful. On the lake are two fine vessels, one named the “ Salamanca,” and the other, of forty tons burden, is called the “ Lincoln.” The kitchen gardens are situated to the north east at some distance from the mansion, and extend over six or seven acres of ground, with about eighteen hot and other houses. The chapel, which is a new and beautiful feature at Clumber, though still unfinished, is designed in the French-Gothic style of the earlier period.* It con¬ sists of a nave 55 feet by 29 feet; a chancel, with semi-circular apsidal termination, 32 feet by 17 feet; an organ chamber, and sacristy ; the former being in the north side of the same, and the latter on the south side, and separated therefrom by columns and arches. This eastern portion of the chapel is divided from the nave by an arcade also supported by columns, the centre opening being considerably higher and wider than the side ones. The inter¬ mediate spaces will be filled by open screens of foliated metal work. The masonry throughout, both externally and internally, is of wrought Steetley stone, interspersed with red Alton stone in the window shafts. The internal shafts of the chancel windows and the whole of the columns are of Devonshire marble, and the walls in immediate connection therewith are faced with polished alabaster. The lower part of the nave walls, as well as the floors, will be covered with encaustic tiles. The reredos, sedelia, and credence Messrs. T. C. Hinc and Son, of Nottingham, were the architects. I I 2 (filumbet], and its tables are to be of alabaster and marble, and richly carved and decorated. The roofs are of high pitch, covered internally with a panelled wagon headed ceiling of pine and cedar. A bell turret 84 feet high, with square base, octangular campanile and spire, forms a prominent feature at the junction of the nave and sacristy, and the exterior generally, with its broken outline coloured tile roof, arcaded walls, and canopied buttresses, adorned with statues, stands out in bold and picturesque relief from the magnificent trees in the background. The Chancel will be fitted up with a richly dressed altar table and carved oak stalls, and the nave fur¬ nished with oak chairs. The windows throughout will be filled with richly stained glass, and the walls will have panelled recesses and suitable frames for the reception of some of the choicest works of sacred art which now adorn the ducal mansion. In the house the StateDining Room is a magnificent apartment. The rich gilding of the cornices, the white and gold Corinthian columns and capitals, contrasting with the light blue ground of the walls, and with the satin curtains of the same hue, the chaste pure white marble chimney piece, and the steel grate, profusely engraved, are exceedingly elegant. This room con¬ tains seven paintings, which have been valued at £25,000. The visitor will be shown into the small Breakfast Room, on the left of the principal entrance, the walls of which are covered with choice paintings. The Entrance Hall is supported by pillars, and contains many gems of art, foremost of which is a colossal statue of Napoleon, which has incorrectly been attributed to Canova; it is by Emanuelle Eranzoni. The then Duke of Newcastle purchased this noble work of art about 1823 of Mr. Thomas Robson, who imported it from Carrara. The price (f!hunbeij, and its Pat|k. 113 his Grace paid for it was £262, whilst the marble alone, when in the rough block, was worth .£400. The original was by Chaudet, and was destroyed in Paris at the restoration of Louis XVIII. ; at any rate, it has never been seen since. From the cast of the original there were three copies made, one was sent to Venice, and was said to be destroyed there ; another stood in the grand square at Lucca with the features of Napoleon defaced, and replaced by those of the Duke of Lucca (Felix Bac- ciochi), a worthless character, who married Marie Anne Eliza, eldest sister of Napoleon, who was born in 1777, and died Queen of Etruria in 1820). The features of Napoleon, however, are still traceable. It is beyond question that the only representation remaining of Chaudet’s great work is the statue at Clumber. It is an invaluable work, historically and artistically. Chaudet was a great sculptor, and Emanuelle Franzoni was probably not inferior to him. He was a celebrity in Carrara, and executed this statue for Napoleon’s sister, the Queen of Etruria. It must be observed that the two copies, Venetian and Lucchese, alluded to, were done in ordinary marble, or what is misnamed “ Sicilian,” whilst Chaudet’s original was carved in statuary marble. The Duke of Newcastle’s is in pure statuary marble also, and is highly finished. There is also a fine statue of Thomson, author of “ The Seasons,” and one of Paris, the son of Priam, King of Troy; a fine bust of Oliver Cromwell; also a bust of the Duke of Newcastle, by Nollekens; a statuette of Shakspeare, by Sheemakers ; a basso relievo of a Boy and Dolphin, by Verchaffer ; and several antique busts and vases. A very magnifi¬ cent case of Colonial Birds is also worthy of special mention. The large Drawing Room is an elegant apartment with beautifully enriched ceiling and fine gilded chan- (fHumben, ar >d Ls ai|h. 114 delier, surmounted by the ducal coronet. The walls are hung with rich drab satin damask, the furniture being gilded and upholstered in blue satin damask. This room contains a choice selection of articles of vertu worthy of great admiration, amongst which we may enumerate five very beautiful ormolu mounted black ebony cabinets, inlaid with brass and tortoise¬ shell and four most elegant pedestals, surmounted with crystal chandeliers. These most costly articles were obtained from the Doge’s Palace, Venice. Two Indian marble tables, inlaid with precious stones, and an Egyptian statuette on a malachite table, will equally command the attention of the connoisseur, as will also a most beautiful French clock, two vases of Indian filligree work, vases of exquisite design, and jewelled with precious stones, and a choice collection of Sevres Dresden, and other china. The small Dining Room has an enriched ceiling, and on the walls are many fine works of art. The Ante-room to Library contains many valuable works of art, amongst which will be found several portraits of historical interest. Fine marble busts of Pitt and Fox, by Nollekens; and the late Duke of Newcastle, by Dewick, will also be found here. The Library, which is 45 feet long, 31 feet wide, and 21 feet high, is a beautiful room fitted with rich Spanish mahogany, and contains a fine collection of English and foreign classical literature, including many rare editions by Caxton and other early printers, and some choice manuscripts. A beautiful gallery, with rich gilded railings, surround it. The marble chimney piece is of the same colour as the dark mahogany fittings; the panelling of the ceiling is painted white, lilac, and fawn, richly gilt and admirably harmonised. This apartment contains some very fine tables, cabinets, and bronzes, and Westmacott’s fine statue of Euprhrosyna. Bailey’s statue of Thetis plunging Achilles into the (f51umbei[, its "5 river Styx, and a bronze statue of Venus de Medici are prominent and beautiful objects. A Corinthian arch, the fluted columns ©f which are of jasper, opens into a reading room 30 feet by 22 feet, which has an octagonal front, and this opens into the east part of the terrace, from which there is a charming view of the lake and pleasure ground. The Smoking Room contains the most chaste and beautiful chimney piece in Great Britain ; it is of polished statuary marble, with exquisitely carved figures. It was purchased at Beckford’s sale, Fonthill Abbey, for £ 1,500. This room, and also the adjoin¬ ing apartment, the Billiard Room, contains a very numerous collection of historical portraits. The lofty Staircase is adorned with many fine paintings. The balustrades of this staircase are of wrought-iron work, with crowns and tassels hanging down between them from cords twisted into knots and festoons, and beautifully painted and relieved with gold. The stained glass windows, containing the heraldic devices of the family, add greatly to the charming effect of this part of the ducal mansion. The lover of antiquities must not fail to see four very beautiful white marble funeral cists, probably as old as the first century after Christ. No. 1 bears the following inscription on the two first VIA CAEDICIA SYNTYCHE CONLI- BERTA = Ccc did a Syntyche , his fellow freedwoman [ erected, this to the memory\ of Marcus Ccedicus Faustns, Merchant of the Via Sacra. panels : M. caedici FAVSTI NEGOTIA¬ TOR [IS] DE SACRA VIA CAEDICIA ^lumbet], and its itfajjh. 116 i®} OTszrasra: V. STKVLIO tE .n.u.v, tELICIMANNEIA BTREPTEETTIIVLIV^PHILO gNICVS HEREDEStFCERV.NI IVLIVS PIIILONICVS B jaaaiiiijaKiiiiianaananoaaaaaj oaao'MMadMPMinHEREDEs fecer- ’ilMHijJIvNT. = To Tiberius The birds pecking at a basket of fruit between them would seem to claim a Christian artist for this work, had not the ox’s head and pendant sacrificial garland, in addition to the heads at the angles—apparently of Jupiter Ammon—pointed to heathenism ; the garland intermixed with birds, below the inscription, is both rich and graceful. No. 2 is well-designed, both in form and details, having received much careful atten¬ tion. Within a long panel, surrounded by an enriched moulding,,is this in¬ scription: TI. IVLIO FELICI MANNEIA TREPTE ET TI. Julius Felix, Mameia Trcpte [? Thrcptc] and Tiberuis Julius P/iilojiictis his heirs made \this cist]. No. 3 rises from an enriched plinth, bearing first, on the pediment of its lid, the inscription D. M. M. IVNI. IVNIA- NI = To the Divine Manes [the tomb .] of Marcus Junius Junianus ; and on a panel below, D. M. ANTONIA TAREN- TINA CONIVGI BENE- MERENTI FECIT. = A ntonia Tarcntina erected [this ] to her well-deserving husband. (fJlumbeii, and its tfatjk *7 Four masks are placed at the corners of the lid ; and on another part appears a boar, for which animal Tarentum was famous. The figures sculptured in front perhaps represent one of the funeral games. No. 4 is longer and lower than the other, having two small panels prepared for inscriptions which never appear to have been filled up. Small fanciful pillars, or candelabra, surmounted by birds, form the angles, from which depend rich garlands of fruit. Etje pictures. In the following catalogue we have aimed at giving the most important pictures at Clumber, and mainly those of whom the name of the artist is known. The connoisseur will find many of great interest, and will be well repaid by a careful examination of these beautiful works of art. STATE DINING ROOM. Four large Pictures—Game, Fruit, and two of Fish, by . Snyders the Figures are by ... ... Langan 118 plumber,—fphe itfictutjes. A large Landscape, in which is a large urn ; in the fore¬ ground a dog with dead game . . . , Jan Weenix Two upright Landscapes, with Cattle . . . Zuccharelli BREAKFAST ROOM. The Beggar Boys . Gainsborough Landscape, with Horses . (upright . . . Moucheron Joan of Arc . Gerard Dow Landscape, with Horses . Poussin Interior of a Studio . . Old Franck Children with Goats Battle Piece (oval) Borgognone Interior of a Church . . . Peter Neef Ruins and Figures Polemberg Battle Piece . . Vander Meulen Marriage of St. Catherine Carlo Dolce Earl of Pembroke . . . . Vandyke Small Battle Piece . . Parrocel Head of an old Woman . Rembrandt (?) Portrait of a Lady Titian Large Sea Piece , . . Ruysdael Death of Cleopatra A Copy from Guido Small Battle Piece • • , . . . Parrocel Portrait of a Man . . Rembrandt Spring, represented by the reign of Flora . . Jan Breughel (The Goddess is by Rothenhammer.) A Cornfield Children at play Interior of a Church . . . Peter Neef Virgin and Child Albert Durer” Countess of Soissons . . . Mignard Portrait (unfinished) A Dairy Farm Peasants playing at Bowls Teniers Portrait of a Female . . . Sir P. Lely Campbell, the poet Sir Thos. Lawrence Ruben’s Wife Rubens a Dr. Waagen says by Jan Mostaert. (fjlumbei;—^he Ipictu»|es. 1 x 9 Head of a Man.A. Del Sarto Lord Nelson.R. Bowyer Small Battle Piece ....... Parrocel Landscape, Rocks, and Figures.Salvator Rosa A Port by Moonlight. . . Vernet ENTRANCE HALL. Henry, 2nd Duke of Newcastle, returning from Shooting . Wheatley Michael Angelo.. . Bronzino The Huntsman’s Funeral.Woodward Portrait ..Penni Head . Barroccio Portrait of Charles II. ....... Scalken Portrait of a Lady.Jervas William, first Lord Paget.Holbein Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln . . . probably Holbein Thomas Pelham Holies, Duke of Newcastle . . . Hoare CRIMSON DRAWING ROOM. Two Views in Venice ....... Caliavara Two Views in Venice .Canaletti An Orator.Rembrandt A Woman with a Bunch of Grapes, tasting . . Reubens A Girl smelling a Flower ...... Reubens The Magdalen in Meditation.Trevisani Small Landscape.Poussin Small Landscape.Poussin Artemisia.Guido Reni Sigismunda, daughter of Tancred, King of Sicily, weeping over the heart of her murdered lover . . . Corregio(?)“ The Baptism of Christ.Baptisto Franco A Flemish Village .... Van Uden and Teniers Dutch Church and Congregation.Rubens Formerly in Sir Luke Schaub’s Collection (1758'. Dr. Waagen says it is by Furini. I 20 (jilumbet;—t^he l?ictui]cs. Attack on a Convoy . Vander Meulen Companion to ditto .... Ditto. Large Landscape and Figures Poussin STATE DRAWING The Crowning of the Virgin ROOM. A. Carraci The Ascension of the Virgin . Murillo (?) Jacob and Rachel .... Imperiali Rinaldo and Armida Vandyke The Discovery of Cyrus Castiglioni Henry Pelham, 4th Duke of Newcastle . Lawrence The Duchess of Newcastle . Lawrence SMALL DINING Two Views in Venice ROOM. . . Canaletti Battle of the Boyne . . . . Vander Meulen Edward Montagu, Earl of Manchester Portrait of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans Lely Sheep and Goats .... . Rosa di Tivoli Interior—Cardplaying . . . . . Teniers Two Fruit and Flower Pieces . Van Oss Two Landscapes. Claude Lorraine The Holy Family .... . Pieto Battoni Sheep and Goats. Rosa di Tivoli Stag Hunt ...... Small Landscape .... Claude Lorraine George the First .... The Brickmakers. Portrait of Edward Clinton, first Earl of Lincoln LINCOLN HALL. Interior of a Church. Delorme Two Battle Pieces. Walton (?) Aurora ........ . After Guido Juliet finding the body of Romeo Henry O'Neill I (plumber,—(| 5 he 3 |'ictui|es. 121 ANTE ROOM. Margaret Cavendish, Duchess of Newcastle . . Lely The Children of Thomas, third Duke of Newcastle . Staveley The Virgin ...... Mazzolini Di Ferrara William Hogarth ........ Hogarth His Wife ......... Hogarth Henry Pelham, fourth Duke of Newcastle . . Reynolds Anne of Denmark ........ Jansen James I. in his robes ........ Thomas Pelham, third Duke of Newcastle Countess of Lincoln ....... Lely Duke of Richmond ....... Van Loo A Nun ..... . . Holbein John Holies, Duke of Newcastle . . . copy from Kneller Henry, fifth Duke of Newcastle .... Watts, R.A. Sir Kenelm Digby ........ Jansen Oliver Cromwell ......... Stone Earl of Essex ......... LOBBY BACK OF SMOKING ROOM. Henry Pelham, 4th Duke of Newcastle .... Van Huysum ........ by himself The Last Trumpet . Guercino Portrait (unknown) Vandyke Edward Clinton, 1st Earl of Lincoln . . . . , Horace Walpole ........ Richardson Two Landscapes ........ Creswick Linnaeus.Roslin (?) Voltaire. Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester .... Sir Robert Peel ......... SMOKING ROOM. The Earls of Lincoln, Scarborough, Winchelsea, and Duke of Dorset drinking the health of Lady Mohun . Dahl 9 122 (fihimbci;—fphc ictut|es. Nell Gwynn.Sir P. Lely Charles I.Vandyke Georgiana, Lady Middleton. Sir W. H. Clinton, G.C.B., G.C.H. Lord Howard of Effingham. King Edward the 4th. Edward Clinton, first Earl of Lincoln .... Emperor Maximillian.Lucas Van Leyden Cardinal Imperiale.Domenichino Earl Mansfield Birch Lady Mary Wortley Montague.Richardson Sir Henry Clinton, K.B.Hoare Samuel Foote.Reynolds William Cavendish, first Duke of Newcastle . . . Dobson A Portrait.Holbein Earl St. Vincent . . . Cornelius Ketel.by Himself Sir Henry Guildford Holbein Sir Edward Nicholas.Vanderhelst Children of the Earl of Harrington .... Sir Henry Clinton, K.B..Hoare Duke of Marlborough . . . ... . Sir J. Reynolds Marquis of Granby.Ditto. Mary Beatrice D’Este, Queen of James II. . . Sir P. Lely La Belle Menuisiere ....... Rigaud Duke and Duchess of York.Hausman Charles II.Sir P. Lely Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, sister of Charles I. . . M. Miervielt Louis XV. of France. Marie Leczinski, his Queen. Portrait of a Lady in a red dress.Lely Sir William Killigrew.Vandyke Melancthon.Cranach Luther.Cranach BILLIARD ROOM. Henry, the tenth Earl of Lincoln .... Gainsborough The Countess of Lincoln.Gainsborough (plumber;—(phc J?ictut|cs. 123 Children of the Earl of Lincoln.Jervas Frances, Lady Chandos. Countess of Lincoln, third wife of Edward Clinton, first Earl of Lincoln.. Holbein John Holies, first Earl of Clare .. Queen Mary the 1st.Lucas de Heere Children of the second Duke of Newcastle .... Hoare Henry Pelham, Chancellor of Exchequer .... Hoare Henry Fiennes Pelham Clinton, second Duke of Newcastle. Hoare Catherine Pelham, his wife.Hoare John Tillotson, Archbishop of Canterbury . . . Kneller Edward Fowler, Bishop of Gloucester .... Kneller Reverend Joseph Spence (crayon) ..... Rosalba Henry Pelham Clinton, Duke of Newcastle, when young, (crayon).Rosalba Mr. Read, his secretary (crayon) - Hoare Denzil Holies, his Father, 1538. Edward Clinton, first Earl of Lincoln .... Holbein Premier Duke of Newcastle ...... Hoare STAIRCASE. William Pitt ......... Owen Thomas Campbell.. . Phillips Robert Southey .,, Sir Walter Scott. ,, James Thomson.Slaughter View on the Thames.Westall Lion Attacking a Wild Boar.Snyders White Hall. Wyke Fruit Piece.Van Oss The Sacrifice of Pan.And. Sacchi George II. . . . . . . . . Shackleton Queen Caroline.Shackleton Prince Rupert.Lely Charles I. as St. George and the Dragon . . . Reubens Diana and Nymphs Hunting. Diepenbeck Dante.. 124 (Jilumbei]—^he 3 ?ictui]cs. Large Landscape .Hartaine Abraham Cowley ........ Sir Christopher Hatton ....... INNER HALL. Lady Henrietta, Cavendish, Holies, Harley. . . . Lely Entombment of Christ ....... Vandyke The Cedars at Clumber. Steetley Church. Interior. East CHAPTER VIII. Itrrtlrij (Cjjitrrjj—Crrssnirll anil ftlnrklnnii (grips— jRarjjp Jltibrij. TEETLEY Church is situated within the border of Derbyshire, about one-and-a-half mile from Shireoaks, and about three miles to the west of Worksop, near the Chesterfield Road. It stands a few hundred yards from the road to the north in a field, and is surrounded by trees. The name does not appear in the Domesday survey, nor is the church named in the “ Valor Ecclcsiasticus" of Henry VIII. Steetley was formerly a portion of the Fee of Tickhill, and was very early held by one Gley de Briton, a who had four sons. Only one of them had issue, namely, three sons and a daughter, the latter of whom became heiress of the family. She was married to Robert le Vavasour, b who, through her, became Lord of Steetley and Denaby, near Mexbro’. From a postmortem enquiry taken at Chesterfield, after the death of Anker Freshville, c in 14 Richard II., 1391, ft Several of the Le Britons were benefactors to the Priory of Worksop, and William, son of Gley (the first of the family), was witness to the foundation charter ofWelbeck. Date c. 1154. b Thorotoyis “Notts.,” under Moretons ; Hunters “South Yorkshire,” under Denaby ; and Esc. 14 R. 11, n. 14, referred to in “Collectanea General et Topog,” Vol. iv. p. 198. c The Freshville family are stated to have presented to the Rectory in the years 1348, 1355, and 1370 Lysoris “ Magna Britannia,” Vol. v. p. 220. it may be gathered that he died, seized, among other property, of one messuage and a bovate of land at Steetley, together with the advowson of the church, and that he held them of John le Vavasour by fealty for all services. The property continued long in the family of Freshville, some of whom resided at the hall near the chapel, now used as a farm-house. From that family it passed into the hands of Sir Thomas Wentworth, in the reign of Elizabeth, and from his representatives^:© the Earls of Shrewsbury and their descendants, the noble house of Howard, with whom it remained till, together with the Worksop Manor Estate, it was sold to the Duke of Newcastle. The date of this beautiful Norman Church, which no doubt w r as built by one of the Le Britons, is about 1150 or 1160. It consists of a nave and chancel, terminating in an apse, the whole being 56 feet long, divided from each other by a massive arch. The apse, which is semi-circular, is separated from the re¬ mainder by a second arch. The nave and chancel have long been unroofed, but the pitch of their roofs may be ascertained from the remaining gables, and the building is otherwise entire. The apse of Steetley is vaulted, and formed of rubble work, supported by moulded groins, orna¬ mented with beakheads ; at their junction is an oval medallion containing a representation of the Holy Lamb and banner. A string or band, enriched with interlacing foliage, surrounds the apse externally. The doorway is composed of three receding semi¬ circular arches, the first or outer one of which is ornamented by zig-zag or chevron moulding, and rests on two semi-detached columns, composed of six stones each, richly carved, with medallions, sup¬ posed to represent the twelve signs of the zodiac. On the outer capitals of this arch is represented the syren, a Steetley Church Details of Steetley Church Fig's.1.2 Capitals of Chancel Arch- Fig. 3 . Capitals of Apsidal Arch. Figs 4.5.6.7. Capitals Supporting Groining of Apse $teetley (f 5 hu»]ch. 127 subject rarely met with in England ; and on the other a conventional ornament springing from a mask. The second arch is composed of the beakhead moulding. The shafts below are detached, and are adorned with elaborately interlaced foliage. The third or inner¬ most arch is simply moulded, and is supported by a pair of engaged shafts, united at the capitals. The chancel arch is a very beautiful specimen of the ornamentation in use during the 12th century. It is composed of three mouldings, the innermost of which is enriched with the chevron ; the next with the embattled ornament; and the outermost one is decorated with a series of small circular arches, with a reticulated ball in the centre of each. The capitals on the north side are curiously carved with representa¬ tions of a two bodied lion, and of the contest of St. George and the Dragon. The only ornamentation on the inner arch is a small billet moulding, running round its external edge. The capitals in the interior of the apse are very beautiful in design—one representing the Temptation'of Adam and Eve. Traces of painting may still be seen upon the capitals and mouldings of the apse, as well as upon the ribs of the vaulting. In 1698-9 the Rev. A. De la Pryme wrote: “In a green meadow close in Stickley, near or in Shire Oaks, in or near Worsop, in Darbyshire, stands a staitly well- built chapel, all arch-roof’d, excellently enambled and gilt; the lead that cover’d the same is all stoln away, so that the weather begins to pierce through its fine roof, to its utter decaying.”* In August 1873, the British Archaeological Asso¬ ciation held their congress at Sheffield, and this chapel was visited by the members, who expressed a “Surtees’ Society,” Vol. 54, p. 174. 128 (fStjesswell (fiijags. their extreme admiration of its architectural features. It was considered to be scarcely equalled by any other example of the kind to be found in the country. A strong representation was at the same time made, which it was desired should be conveyed to the owner of this choice relic, that in order to preserve it from the destructive effects of exposure to the weather, it should be roofed in, a work which it was stated might be effected at a very moderate expense. 8 Crcsstorll (Crags. Cresswell Crags are about five miles from Worksop, and though they are sufficiently beautiful to repay the admirer of picturesque scenery, they are very little frequented. The foot road is through the Worksop Manor Park to South Lodge, and through the tunnel made by the Duke of Portland, pursuing which the new Mansfield road will be reached, and a road on the right leads to Cresswell. The carriage road is by the new Mansfield turnpike, and the road on the right named above near Welbeck will lead to Cresswell. With the permission of Dr. Spencer T. Hall, he shall now be the tourist’s guide. “On entering the village you meet with two or three groups of small cottages, which seem as if they had shrunk out of the way under some grey overhanging rocks for shelter; and as you draw near to acquaint yourself still better with the scene, you perceive a little public-house, with a fine old bowering sycamore at its front, up which ascends a flight of steps to an ale-bench sur- » The remains of this beautiful Church were fully illustrated in “ Steetley Church,” Derbyshire, photographically illustrated, with plans and sections, by James Contencin and Theophilus Smith, i860. CRESSWELL CRAGS ffjaqhland (flijips. 129 rounded by seats among its branches, where it is capable of safely accommodating an extensive con¬ vivial party. Passing this curious tree, and several rudely constructed cottages, you are at once in the opening of a most romantic defile—a streamy glen, with high rocky sides, and from the indentures on one hand, and the projections on the other formed to fit them, convince you at once that in some remote age of the world both were joined together, and that a high hill was here opened through its centre by some tremendous convulsion of nature. Yet, however this scene may impress us, it has little of the terrific left about it. For with the exception of the openings to some extensive and remarkable caverns that are understood to have furnished retreats for Robin Iiood and his band, time appears to have obliterated a good deal of that grimness which generally characterises rocky scenery. And the luxuriance of the hanging foliage and ivy ; the greenness of the meadow ex¬ tending from side to side; the freshness of the little river YVollen flowing through its midst, with its trail of willows ; the grotesqueness of the clustering cot¬ tages at its upper end, and its lovely opening through green dell into Welbeck Park below;—all tend to cheer rather than awe the spectator, and to make him feel how harmoniously beauty and sublimity may dwell together.” Proceeding through the village of Cresswell, we come to fHnrklanh ©rips, which are really three diverging bushy glens. Up one of these run rocks — grotesque and grey — from, and often partially, in which the stems of dark yews 130 ff}ar,hla»d (pijips. and other trees fantastically wriggle and twist them¬ selves about, and then hang out their bowery heads from the crags and crevices with mingled wildness and sublimity. Sometimes we come to an antique cavity, and climbing in find ourselves in a fairy dwelling, the inside of which is lined with velvet mosses of bril¬ liant hues, braided by tendrils of ivy and other green climbers, and overhung in front by beautiful festoons of evergreens that playfully flutter in the fitful wind. Next may be seen some castellated projection, whose ivy-mantled turrets make us think of old ruined abbeys and fortresses, so much in their solitude and stillness do they resemble such objects; and still further on, some little grotto retiring into its ver¬ durous nook coyly invite you to enter and enjoy the sweet prospect from its green-fringed opening. Such was the bewitching succession of scenes through which we rambled in the softening sunshine of evening, till coming to a narrow part of the dell, where the embowered rocks almost met over a limpid brook, with which we had all along kept up a happy companionship, we reclined for a while in the cool shade to watch the flight of ringdoves from tree to tree, and to listen to their tender cooing, or the pleasant calls of other feathered inhabitants of the woods, musing in unspeakable thankfulness and joy on the beauties of nature and the power which had been given us to reap from them so much instruction and delight. Anon we plunged among the bushes on the opposite side of the dell, and scrambling up the cliff, found ourselves on a piece of table-land, from which we could gaze upon much that we had passed with con¬ siderable advantage, as the same objects had a dif¬ ferent appearance from every new position. J$ai|hland (pipps. J3i Then unexpectedly we dropped into a sweet pas¬ toral hollow, with high woody sides, and a little brook warbling wildly through its centre. There was some¬ thing in the life and spirit of this lonely dell, richer and purer in its effect than I had then felt elsewhere. There was a brightness in the whole scene that scarcely seemed of earth—a freshness even about its mellow¬ ness and repose, like that which inspires us when we read John Keat’s poetry—so soothing, yet elevating— so tender, though solemn !—elysian fore-glimpses vouchsafed to man, that we may feel how well Para¬ dise is worth his winning 1 Through this we went into another glen, which proved to be the souther- most Grip—much of the same character as the western one in the main, but somewhat different in its minor features—and if anything on a more extended scale, though not, if we except the little tributary just men¬ tioned, fraught altogether with such a variety of beauty and interest. No one can gaze on the side of this Grip without perceiving indubitable proofs of their having been, like Cresswell Crags—of which they are in some sense a continuation—undivided, in some distant age of the earth ; yet how far, far distant must that age be ! What centuries it must have taken to form the rich deep soil on which this beautiful verdant pasture is spread between them ! What evidences of a succession of vegetation in the interstices of the cliffs too ! What vast masses of foliage hanging from the rock-sides in all the exuberance of native wildness ! Yews—great spreading funereal yews—waving out like something set to mourn the dread convulsion by which the chasm was riven, with such magnificent masses of ivied tapestry hanging below them ! A fresh green fringe of mountain-ash, holly, and hazel, running along and waving over its uppermost borders, and a pure blue arch of sky thrown over from one J 3 2 Boche Abbey. side to the other ! And then such a strange yet beauti¬ ful scattering of mossy stumps, and little detached blocks of limestone and splintered crags, flung in a systematic sort of wildness along the bottoms—with here and there a huger block rolled nearer to the middle of the valley, from which grow tall spontaneous trees, as if they had stricken their roots into the very stone itself ; while all around them various vegetable creepers luxuriate in the greatest profusion, amongst which winds that little stream making perpetual melody with its gentle song !” ftorijc sliibcg. Roche Abbey is about nine miles north-west of Worksop. The remains are those of a Cistercian abbey, dedicated, as was the custom of that order, to the Blessed Virgin. The original monks came from the abbey of Newminster, near Morpeth, which was an off-shoot from Fountains Abbey. The Abbey was founded in 1147 by Richard de Busli and Richard Fitz Turgis, the owners of the soil on either side of the stream, upon which the “ Monks of the rock” had settled. The monks also received numerous benefactions from other persons, among whom were King Henry II. Idonea de Vipont grand¬ daughter of Richard de Busli the co-founder, who, with her body granted them the manor of Sandbeck; Edmund de Laci, constable of Chester; and William, the sixth Earl of Warren, the latter of whom granted them the tenth of the residue of the eels taken out of the fisheries in Hatfield, Thorne, and Fishlake after the deduction of the full tithes which belonged to the monks of Lewes; while in William, the last Roche Abbey B o c h e A b b e y. Earl of Warren, they found a still larger benefactor, who, “ grieving for the paucity of the monks serving God there, gave for the support of thirteen additional monks the advowson of the church of Hadfield, then valued at seventy marks per annum.” Leo de Maunvers gave them Brancliffe, Ralf de Fortemayn lands in Todwick, and Robert, the son of Glai, of the family who built the chapel at Steetley, land and a wood at Conisborough. Alicea, Countess of Eu, the great lady of the manor of Tickhill, confirmed all the gifts of her tenants. The abbey also received confirmation charters from Kings Richard I. and Henry III. ; and Pope Urban the third, by his Bull dated in 1186, confirmed the then made and all future donations, and exempted the abbot and monks from payment of tithes for all lands in their own occupation. In 1446 Roche Abbey obtained another benefactor in Matilda, Countess of Cambridge, who with her body (which she ordered to be buried at Roche in the chapel of the Blessed Virgin in the southern part of the church) gave xlii. marks for three chaplains to pray for her soul, also a white vestment and a penny a day to a monk for the same purpose, also vi\ viii d . to the abbot, and xx' 1 . to each monk on the day of her burial; also xl. marks to celebrate once in each year her obit, also her whole vestment of red colour worked with gold, with one chalice, two cruets, two best silver candlesticks, and one silver bell, to remain with her body, for the use of the church of Roche. This Matilda was daughter of Thomas de Clifford, and it is on account of this relationship that Henry Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, was returned in the “visitation” of Leigh and Layton as the founder of Roche. In this same “ visitation” serious charges were made against five of the monks; John Robinson, !34 Boche Abbey. a monk, is suspected of treason and imprisoned at York, and it is also complained of that pilgrimage is made to an image of the crucifix, found as it is believed on a rock, and held in great veneration. In 1538, June 23, the year after the above visitation, the abbey was surrendered by the abbot and seventeen monks; shortly after which the church and other buildings were given to destruction. Some few re¬ mains of these, however, still exist, and these are of great interest and beauty. They principally consist of portions of the eastern part of the church, bases of the central tower, and of some of the piers of the nave, with the basement of the west end. The church has been cruciform, having a short choir with two chapels on each side, transepts without aisles, and a nave, with arcades of eight arches opening into aisles; the % whole length having been about two hundred feet, while that of the transepts was about one hundred feet. A faint idea may be obtained of what must have been the beauty of the whole structure from the principal remains already alluded to, namely, the eastern arcades of the transepts. Here we have on each side the choir two well-proportioned pointed arches, resting upon clustered columns, with plain capitals. Above these, on a string, two blank pointed arches in each compartment; and over these, separated by another string, a single round-headed window. The springers of the vaulting still remain, which arise from bold clustered shafts. The choir arch is gone, but it has been a very lofty and noble one; and of the choir itself only the south and north sides remain, in the former of which is a large round arch, which has con¬ tained sedilia, and to the east of this an aperture, which has held a piscina and a lockyer. On the north side are the traces of some rich tabernacle work, pro¬ bably the remains of the tomb of some great bene- Hoche Abbey. r 35 factor. The chapels on the south side are entire ; they are groined. Those on the north much ruined. The architecture of these remains indicate the end of the 12th century as the time of the erection of the church. The principal offices of the abbey surrounded a cloister court on the south side of the nave of the church ; of these nothing remains but a fragment or two. No doubt they followed the usual arrangement of a Cistercian Abbey, having on the eastern side next the south transept—first, a vestry; next, the chapter house; then, probably, another small apart¬ ment ; after that a passage, having to the south of it the monks’ parlour. Over these would be the dormi¬ tory of the monks, from which a staircase would lead into the church. On the south side of the court would be the kitchen, the refectory, and the buttery; on the west a large undercroft, as at Fountains and Kirkstall, and other places, which has served as a storehouse; and over this the dormitory of the Conversi, or lay brethren. It is probable that the guest house was at the southern end of this building, and also the abbot’s residence. The Infirmary was most likely to the south-east of this cloister court; and here, too, separated by the stream, are the remains of the abbey mill. At some distance to the north-west are the remains of the Gatehouse, of which the lower parts are pretty entire. It is entered on both sides by obtusely pointed arches, resting on clustered shafts, and in the middle has a principal and postern arch, each compartment being groined over with bold ribs resting on plain brackets. These are the only remains of any consequence of this once magnificent abbey; still, not only for their own sake, but because of the delightfully secluded 13 6 Bochc $bbey. sceneryin which they are situated, presenting as it does an exquisite combination of hill, wood, and water, they form a most charming object to the visitor; and by the liberality of the noble owner, the Earl of Scar¬ borough, are open to the public on Mondays and Thursdays in each week* a Those who desire to pursue the study of the remains of this once magnificent abbey are referred to Aveling’s “History of Roche Abbey, from its Foundation to its Dissolution.” Impl. 8vo., 1870. CHAPTER IX. IBrlbrrk, nnb its park. ELBECK Abbey is about three miles and a half from Worksop. The foot road is by the Castle Farm, and pursuing the road to the left through the Manor Park we come into a delightfully sequestered wood, where the gorse, the fern, and the lichens in immense variety contrast beautifully with the fine towering beeches and oaks. This wood is a continuation of those of the “Manor Hills,” and divides the Manor from the Welbeck estates ; at the extremity of this wood is the “ South Lodge.” Welbeck contains 2,203a. 3R. 3P. of land, and anciently formed part of the Manor of Cuckney, which was held by Sweyn, a Saxon. After the Conquest it was given in fee to Hugh Fitz- Baldric, under whom, at the time of the Domesday survey, it was held by Richard, son of Joceus le Flemangh, with the exception of two caru- cates, which Gamelbere, an old Saxon knight, was allowed to retain. Gamelbere died without issue, and the estate estreated to King Henry I, who gave it to a son of Joceus le Flemangh, w r ho came with the Conqueror. This son of Joceus had issue Richard, whose son, Thomas de Cuckney, built and founded the Abbey here, for Prmmonstratensian canons. This monastic edifice was begun in the reign of Stephen, 10 SElelbcch, and its Ifar^. 138 1140, and was completed in that of Henry II. He dedicated the Abbey to St. James, and gave it and the lands to the monks, in free and perpetual alms, for his own, and for his father’s and ancestors’ souls, “and for theirs from whom he had unjustly taken any goods.” In 1512 the custody of all the houses of this order was conferred on the Abbot of Welbeck. The Prae- monstratensians were introduced into England by Peter de Goula, or Gousel, in 1140, just twenty years after their establishment. The dress of the canons was a white cassock, with a rochet over it, a long white cloak, and a white cap—hence they were called white canons. Of this order there were about thirty- five houses. The Abbey existed at Welbeck 398 years, and was dissolved by Henry VIII. ; its yearly revenues were ^249 6s. 3d., and in 1538 it was granted by purchase to Richard Whalley and his heirs. Some years after¬ wards,in 1558,Queen Elizabeth permitted Richard and William Whalley to transfer it to Edward Osborne, citizen and cloth-worker, of London, under the name of the Manor of Welbeck. In 1595 it passed to Robert Booth and Ranulph Catterall, and then to Sir Charles Cavendish, youngest son of the celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury, by her mar¬ riage with Sir William. Sir Charles marrying Cathe¬ rine, daughter and heiress of Cuthbert, Lord Ogle, was succeeded by his son William, who was created a baron of the realm in 18th James I. by the title of Lord Ogle, and was afterwards made Viscount Mans¬ field. On the 17th March, 3 Charles I., he was advanced to the dignity of Baron Cavendish of Bolsover and Earl of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and was appointed governor of Prince Charles. After the restoration of Charles II. he was created Earl of Ogle and Duke of Newcastle, and died at the age of 84. He QUelbech, and its Jpai;h. r 39 was also the celebrated commander of the King’s forces in the civil war of Charles I. He built the once mag¬ nificent riding-house at Welbeck in 1623 and was the author of the great “Treatise on Horsemanship.” 3 In 1619 King James paid a visit to Sir William Caven¬ dish, at Welbeck, where he was entertained with great magnificence. In 1633 King Charles I., making his progress into Scotland to be crowned, did the noble proprietor the honour of resting at Welbeck, where his majesty and court were received in such a manner, and with “such excess of feasting as had scarcely ever been known in England.” On the occasion of this visit “ the Earl employed Ben Jonson in fitting such scenes and speeches as he could devise, and sent for all the gentry to come and wait on their majesties ; and in short did all that ever he could imagine to render it great and worthy of their royal acceptance” 6 at a cost of nearly ,£15,000. Ben Jonson wrote a Masque, entitled “Love’s Wel¬ come ; the King’s entertainment at Welbeck, in Not¬ tinghamshire, a house of the Right Honourable William, Earl of Newcastle, Viscount Mansfield, Baron of Bothal and Bolsover,” which was played at Welbeck on the 21st May, 1633. This Duke of Newcastle married first Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of William Basset of Blore, county Stafford, and widow of the Hon. Henry Howard, third son of Thomas, first Earl of Suffolk, by whom he had issue Charles Viscount Mansfield, who married, but died without issue in his father’s lifetime; Henry, his successor, and three daughters. He married, secondly, Margaret, sister of Lord Lucas, by whom he had no issue. a A general System of Horsemanship in all its branches. 2 Vols. Royal folio. London, 1743. Several other editions in English and French were published. b Collins's Historical Collections of the noble Families of Cavendish,” &c., 1752. 140 Mclbecb, and its iPaqh. Margaret, grand-daughter to this Duke of New castle (being daughter of Henry Cavendish, second Duke, by Frances, his wife, daughter of William Pierrepoint, second son of Robert, Earl of Kingston), married John Holies, fourth Earl of Clare, who was created Duke of Newcastle in 1694, and left an only daughter and heiress, Henrietta, who married Edward Harley, second Earl of Oxford, the founder of the Harleian Library. The only issue of this union was a daughter, Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley, who married in 1734 William, second Duke of Portland, from whom this ancient seat and other estates descended to the present noble proprietor. Their son William, third Duke of Portland, married Lady Dorothy Cavendish, only daughter of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, by whom he had issue a son, afterwards the late worthy Duke of Portland, who in 1795 married Henrietta, daughter and co-heiress of Major-General John Scott, of Balcomie, a descendant of the Scottish heroes, Baliol and Bruce. The Duke assumed the name of Scott-Bentinck, and had issue four sons and five daughters. He died March 27th, 1854, at the age of 86 years, and was succeeded by his son William John Scott Cavendish Bentinck, the present Duke of Portland, who was born September 17 th, 1800. The Bentincks descend from the noble family of that name in the province of Overyssel, in the Republic of the United Provinces of the Netherlands, where they flourished for many generations. The Westons were Earls of Portland from 1653 to 1665, when the title became extinct by the death of Thomas Weston without issue ; it was again revived in 1689 in the person of William Bentinck, who was in the suite of William, Prince of Orange, when he came over to take possession of the English throne. There do not appear to be any remains of the old Melbech, and its l?atih. 141 monastic building, except some arches of the vaults and a few inner walls, to which some old sepulchral monuments are still attached. The present building was begun in 1604. The Portland collection of minatures is well known to connoisseurs, and contains works by Nicholas Hil¬ liard, Isaac Oliver, Peter Oliver, Gibson, S. Cooper, Flatman, Lens, Lewis, Cross, Hoskins, &c., &c. This collection was commenced by Robert Harley, Earl of Oxford, and his son the second Earl; it was after¬ wards catalogued and enlarged by George Vertue for the widow of the second Earl. The Abbey contains many fine paintings by old masters and many portraits of historical interest. Amongst these may be named a portrait of Matthew Prior, who was a friend of the Earl of Oxford ; one of Ben Jonson, by Jansens, by whom also there is one of the Countess of Shrewsbury, “Bess of Hardwick,” of Charles the First, of William and Mary, and many others. The principal artists whose works are found here are Raphael, Vandyke, Rembrandt, Snyders, Gaspar Poussin, Ruysdael, Wouvermans, Tintoretto, Carracci, Vandervelde, Savery, Hals, Claude Lorraine, Titian, Rubens, Holbein, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and others. Many of these works are now undergoing restoration. Amongst the manuscripts at Welbeck Abbey may be named letters by Charles II., Hearne, the anti¬ quary, Oliver Cromwell,and other celebrities ; Patents, creating Sir William Cavendish Viscount Mansfield, November 3, 1621; Baron Haughton, Earl of Clare, November 2, 1625 ; Viscount Mansfield, Baron Caven¬ dish of Bolsover, and Earl of Newcastle, March 7, 1628 ; William, Earl of Newcastle, Marquess of New¬ castle, October 27, 1644; the same nobleman, Earl of Ogle and Duke of Newcastle, March 17, 1666 • and John, Earl of Clare, Marquess of Clare, and 142 Mel beck, and its Park. Duke of Newcastle, May 14, 1695. An inventory of the effects of Denzil Holies, on a long slip of parch¬ ment, dated May 15, 1590; a most valuable MS. account of the regalia, jewels, and plate of Henry VIII., when in the custody of Sir Henry Wyatt. This latter is in its original parchment binding, and is signed repeatedly by the king. Here also is pre¬ served the original MS. of the Duke of Newcastle’s celebrated work on horsemanship. When the present Duke of Portland succeeded his father, he commenced making great alterations and improvements in the pleasure grounds, gardens, and in the park. Each year since the noble possessor inherited this estate, he has been spending a princely income in carrying out improvements, which, for their cost and the number of workmen employed, are quite unprecedented in any private nobleman’s ex¬ perience ; even the well-known building propensity of “ Bess of Hardwick” is here out-done. Welbecb Abbey, before the alterations. Melbcch, and its l?aiik. x 43 Another story has been added to the south front, or Lady Oxford’s wing of the Abbey, and this has added greatly to the imposing effect of the building when viewed from the head of the lake. The fine old riding-house, built in 1623 by the Duke of Newcastle, from plans by Smithson, a has been con¬ verted into a picture gallery. Its length is now 182 feet, its height 50 feet, and its width 40 feet. The floor is of polished oak, and the wood-work of the roof, which is in the style of Westminster Hall, is painted as a sky. From the principals of the roof, and in a line, are suspended four magnificent cut-glass chandeliers, weighing nearly a ton each ; five sunlights, five feet in diameter, are also suspended from the ridge centre of the roof. From the hammer beams are suspended twenty-eight smaller cut-glass chandeliers, and from the sides of the walls spring sixty-four graceful cut-glass brackets, with silvered backs. The room is panelled about four feet six inches high, and above that a line of silvered glass about three feet deep, with cut-glass mouldings top and bottom, sur¬ round the walls. Altogether there are in this room nearly 2,000 gas-lights, and when lighted the effect is magical and brilliant. The lobby to this room is 12 feet long and 14 feet high. The inner doors, open¬ ing into the picture gallery, are entirely covered with silvered plate glass, as are also the joillars on each side, and the cornice above the doors. The upper part of the cornice above these doors is tastefully festooned with cut-glass, supported by plated pillars. The ancient covering of the roof has been removed, and one of patent corrugated copper substituted, by which an immense decrease of weight has been effected. On the roof, two turrets have been erected, in one of a Huntingdon Smithson lived at Bolsover, where he died in 1648. Some account of him will be found in “ Walpole's Anecdotes." Vol. ri., p. 59, Ed. 3, where he i> called John by mistake. 144 Melbecb, and its Park. which a clock of superior and original construction has been fixed. It is made from the hardest gun metal, and shews the time on four illuminated opal dials up¬ wards of five feet each in diameter, striking the hours on a five cwt. bell, and chiming “ Cambridge quarters” on four smaller bells, repeating the hour after the first, second, and third quarters, and repeating again the “ Cambridge chimes,” together with the hour after the fourth quarter. In the other turret there is another timepiece recording the time on two illuminated dials, about two feet each in diameter, and driving two calen¬ dars, shewing the month, the day of the week, and the moons’ age and equation of time on two separate dials. 5 Beneath this room immense wine cellars have been constructed, with bins of cast iron ; subterranean pas¬ sages connect these cellars with the Abbey, the kitchen, and the different servants’ departments. On the roof of the range of buildings, which are parallel with the picture gallery, there are two tur¬ rets, in one of which is a clock, and in the other a barometer with four dials about 54 feet in diameter. The fine kitchen is one of the apartments of this building, and its arrangements combine everything which art, wealth, and ingenuity can devise to render it complete. A railway underground has been con¬ structed, which is intended to convey the dinners to the dining-room. It has remained for the year 1873 to see, we believe, the first subterranean library ever con¬ structed. Parallel with the picture gallery, and of the same length, such an apartment, about 32 feet wide and 14 feet high, has been built by the noble Duke in the ground. It is built on arches, the walls are double, and well protected with Seyssell asphalt a These clocks and calendars were manufactured by Mr. Benson, of Old Bond Street, London. Melbech, and its 3?ai|b. U5 It is divided into three rooms by folding doors, and when desired it can be thrown into one room. The roof, which is level with the surface of the park, is supported with iron girders; and here again the Seys- sell asphalt is used to ensure dryness. On the south side there is a roadway about 18 feet wide, and the room is lighted by 15 windows on this side as well as by 24 sky-lights on the top. The light from the top is softened by passing through rich crimson silk, manufactured for the purpose in Paris. The ante¬ room to the library is at the east end, it is 59 feet long and 43 feet wide, and opens into the library through folding doors ten feet wide. The total length of library and ante-room is 236 feet, and these rooms are lighted at night by gas with 18 sunlights con¬ taining about 1,100 burners. At the west side of the library the ground has been excavated, and the foundations are now laid for a subterranean church, 174 feet long and 64 feet wide. Underground passages connect the picture gallery, library, and church with the house, and also with the new works, which are about half a mile distant. We cannot speak particularly of the other nume¬ rous alterations about the Abbey, as no other room is so far complete as to indicate the ultimate intention of the noble architect. One of the most extraordinary works has been the formation of a subterranean road-way through a por¬ tion of the park and under the lake, in place of an ancient highway which existed before it. It is arched with bricks, and lighted from the top by circular lights of polished plate-glass, i^-inch thick and twelve yards apart, with intermediate gas-lights, which are used night and day to ensure safety to passengers through it. With the noble Duke’s usual thoughtfulness, he has placed a drinking fountain under the subterranean road-way, to take the place of the “ Welbeck Ale,” 146 SiJelbech, and its J?ar,h. which was formerly at the command of every way¬ farer who choose to call at the Abbey. The entrance to this road-way, which is of wrought stone, is opposite the “ South Lodge” on the Work¬ sop Manor estate, and it terminates at the New Buildings, near Holbeck, a distance of about one mile and a half. At the terminus of this tunnel, the most magnificent riding-house, stables, and timber yards in the kingdom have lately been erected. The riding-house is 385 feet long, 112 feet wide, and 51 feet high ; the walls are built of wrought Anston, Gipsy Hill, and Belph Moor stone. On each side of this building there are twenty cast-iron columns, and four at each end. A circle of gas jets, 3ft. 6in. in diameter, surround the capital of each column, and each circle is festooned with beautiful cut glass. A 2-inch gas-pipe, with jets, also surrounds the entire building at about 16 feet from the ground, and is attached to the columns. Altogether there are 7,500 gas-lights in this riding-house. The roof is in three divisions, the centre one being circular and made of iron and glass, of which it con¬ tains about 28,000 feet, and the tw r o side ones are made of pitch pine, hipped and covered with copper tiles. The hunting stables contain stalls for 96 horses, and are fitted in the most beautiful manner, being quite resplendent with Minton’s encaustic tiles, and the polish of the brass work of the doors and mangers. Another large stable contains the carriage horses, and this with the coach-houses is also fitted up in the same expensive style. Other fine buildings are arranged around the stables, consisting of steward’s offices, a poultry yard with ornamental out-buildings, a very fine dairy lined with glazed tiles, and kept cool by an ever-playing jet d' cau in the centre, and also an im¬ mense cowhouse and a laundry on the most approved plans. 147 ®3elbech, and its Ifaijb. The new timber yards are on a most extensive scale, and contain machinery of the best construction for sawing timber, with upright and circular saws, saw sharpening machine, arrangements for steaming and steeping timber for preservative purposes. The shaft¬ ing works under the floors and the machinery is driven by a steam engine of 35-horse power. In a line with the northern side of the new stables is a glass covered arcade 1,270 feet long, and con¬ taining upwards of 64,000 feet. It was originally intended for a tan-gallop, for the exercise of horses in winter or bad weather. The east and west ends of this erection are of imposing magnitude. The gas¬ works erected to supply the subterranean road-way, stables, offices, and all the domestic offices with gas, are situated near the new Worksop and Mansfield road. The noble architect has apparently taken every precaution which wealth and intellect can suggest against loss by fire. Water towers and underground cisterns around the Abbey provide ample storage for water, and nearly every room is supplied with hydrants and means of applying without delay the water thus collected in case of fire. A steam fire engine and other hand engines of the best construc¬ tion, with all the most approved appliances, and a well-practised fire brigade, are always in readiness. At the timber yard and workshops there are also immense cisterns of water, with hydrants and fixed or donkey engines, and an abundant supply of leathern hose, in case of fire. The kitchen garden, which is near the new stables, contains about ten acres walled and six acres of orchard ground outside the walls. The main range of hot-houses is nearly 800 feet in length, and all the vineries and peach-houses are constructed on the newest and best principles in regard to heating and ventilation. There are other ranges of forcing pits and frames behind the main range, which being backed 148 Sslclbcch, and its Park. by the great glass covered tan gallop, makes a surface of glass unequalled in the kingdom. A great feature in this kitchen garden is a glass covered south wall, used as an orchard-house, and a wire trellised arcade for the growing of the best sorts of dessert pears and apples. These erections are each of them about 700 feet in length, and successfully answers the purpose for which they were designed. The gardens at Welbeck have been celebrated for some extraordinary productions, especially for an enor¬ mous bunch of grapes of the Syrian variety, which was raised when Speechley was gardener there. This bunch weighed nineteen and a half pounds, and was sent by the present Duke’s grandfather as a present to the Marquis of Rockingham, at Wentworth. The men who took it carried it in the same manner that the spies carried the grapes from the land of Canaan, namely, suspended on a pole. In the pleasure grounds many of the new species of the fir tribe from Mexico and from the Himalayan mountains are growing with great luxuriance, and have braved our cold and damp climate so well hitherto as to be pronounced nearly hardy. The seeds of the Ccdnis dcodara (or sacred cedar of the Hindoos) were sent from India by the late Lord William Bentinck, uncle of the present duke, when Governor-General there; and there are now two fine trees in the Pinetum, near Car- burton. Since these trees have been planted they have grown as fast as the larch. The Araucarias too, in the same Pinetum, are growing fast, and will quite alter the forest scenery in parks and plantations, when they get to their full size, by their graceful and tropical appearance. The charming lake originally made by Repton in the political Duke of Portland’s time, a fine sheet of water, has been altered and made deeper in some places to prevent the growth of weeds ; it now ex¬ tends from the old lake-head at Sloswicks to Car- Melbech, and its ^arjh. 149 burton, and is about three miles in length. It has been considerably widened, and winding as it does in the most natural and easy manner in the valley, and there being here and there several small promontories, studded with trees, it gives the picture a most de¬ lightful effect; and the lake’s silvery surface, com¬ bined with the dark foliage of the surrounding trees, and these, added to the presence of the noble deer, the beauty of the scene is greatly enhanced. The deer park, which occupies a circumference of nine or ten miles, has been surrounded by an iron fence of a new construction. The lake was widened in 1793, and at that time an antique bust of carnelian, set in silver, was found; and from the inscription it is supposed to have been the present of an unknown lady to an abbot at Welbeck. 1 The noble Duke has built the extraordinary number of thirty-five lodges on the estate (and six others are in course of erection), many of them having cost large sums of money. They are built of finely wrought Steetley stone, and from various points of view form very pleasing objects in the landscape. A peculiar feature in their architecture is, that the out-houses are underground, being lighted and ven¬ tilated by large circular plate-glass lights. Welbeck Park has always been famous for its oaks. The following letter from Sir Christopher Wren, which is still preserved at Welbeck Abbey, shews that some of the timber used in building St. Paul’s Cathedral was obtained from this park: For Mr. Richard Neale, Steward to His Grace the Duke of Newcastle at Welbeck. Lond.: April 4th, 1695. Sir,—Having in my letter of June 23, 1693, signified to you a particular of all the scantlings of the Timber wee might use in the a An engraving of this bust will be found in Harrod's “ History of Mansfield,” small 4to, 1801. Melbech, and its Jfaijh. r 5 ° roofe of St. Paules, that His Graces noble benefaction might be as useful as may be to the worke, and understanding that what is already designed is none of the Great beams, w ch is what wee are most solicitous for, and being given also to understand that we must expect this season but Ten of the great Trees: I presume once more to acquaint you with the scantlings of the great Beames to prevent mistake. 47 feet long, 13 inches and 14 inches at the small end, growing timber, this scantling to hold die square as near as can be without sap. Mr. Longland our chiefe Carpenter will be sent down this season to take care of this concerne, and the timber brought down to Bawtrey, whom I desire you to converse with in particulars w ch at this distance I can hardly determine, and beseech you to present with all advantage our utmost sence of his Graces favor, of w ch . also I am very sensible as becomes Your humble servant CER. WREN. The park abounds in extensive woods and remark¬ able trees. The latter were described by Major Rookc, in 1790, in his “Descriptions and Sketches of remark¬ able Oaks in Welbeck Park.” The principal ones are as follow : The “Porter Oaks,” so called from there having been a gateway between them. The height of one is about 100 feet, and its circumference about 38 feet; the other is about 90 feet high, and about 34 feet in circumference. Then there is the “Seven Sisters,” an oak so called from its having had seven trunks issuing from one root, in a perpendicular direction, to the height of about 88 or 90 feet; the circumference at the bottom is about 30 feet. Several of these stems were long since blown down. The “Duke’s Walking Stick,” which formerly stood in this park, was a fine oak, perhaps unmatched by any other in the kingdom for height and straightness. It was 1 lift. 6in. high, contained about 440 feet of solid timber, and its weight was estimated at 11 tons. There is now a “Young Oak Walking Stick,” of 129 years’ growth, in the plantation near the Abbey. Melbech, and its 3 ?atih. iS 1 This tree is as straight as an arrow, and about ioo feet high, and 70 feet to the branches. “Greendale Oak” a —the “Methuselah of trees”— unquestionably the most remarkable tree in this fine domain. In 1724 an opening was made through this tree, capable of allowing a carriage, or three horsemen abreast, to pass through. The Major gives the fol¬ lowing as the dimensions of the tree at that time :— “The circumference of the trunk above the arch, 35 ft. 3 in.; height of the arch, 10 ft. 3 in.; width about the middle, 6ft. 3in.; height to the top branch, 54 ft.” The age of this tree must, of course, be specula¬ tion. Major Rookc said, in 1790, it is “thought to be above seven hundred years oldand Throsby, in his edition of Thorotods “Nottinghamshire,” 1797, says it “is supposed to be upwards of 1500 years old.” It is now planked diagonally and otherwise supported; yet, notwithstanding its decrepitude, its green boughs spread over a diameter of about 45 feet. In 1727 the Countess of Oxford had a cabinet made of the oak, taken from the heart of this tree in making the cavity named above. The cabinet is now at YVelbeck, and contains in-laid representations of the tree and a former Duke of Portland driving an old- fashioned carriage and six horses through the opening, with the following quotation from 'Ovid's “Metamor¬ phosis “ Saspe sub hac Dryades festas duxere choreas ; Saepe etiam manibus nexis ex ordine trunci Circuiere modum mensuraque roboris ulnas Quinque ter implebat, nec non et caetera tento Silva sub hac, Sylva quanto jacet herba sub omni.” Which may be thus rendered : “ Oft did the dryads lead the festive dance Beneath his shade, or hand in hand enclose The orbit of his trunk, full fifteen yards : Whose head above his fellow of the grove Doth tower, as these above the sward beneath.” “ A series of six engraved views of this tree were published in 1727. T 5 2 Melbecb, and its ilfa^h. And also the following lines from Chaucer: “ Lo, the Oke ! that hath so long a norishing Fro the time that it ginneth first to spring, And hath so long a life, as we may see, Yet, at the last, wasted is the tree.” The Greendale OaV. V TH OR ES BV. CHAPTER X. €jjnmlni. now accompany the visitor to Thoresby, the seat of the Earl Manvers. Taking the road on the right of Clumber House, we cross the lake by a beautiful bridge of three arches. From this bridge we have the finest view that can be obtained in the park. Looking towards the mansion immediately before us, the waters of the lake flowing amongst miniature islands and rocks form numerous mimic cascades. The sound of the falling waters, min¬ gled with the cry of alarm from the water-fowl as they rapidly rise from their quiet and secluded retreat beneath the pendant foliage, toying and sporting with every breath of air, and the trees dipping their leaves and branches in the water, all combine to relieve the exceeding quiet and stillness of the scene. To the left is the mansion, skirted by the gloomy cedars, and beyond, the lake expanding into a noble sheet of water is embosomed in magnificent woods, extending far as the eye can reach. After pursuing the road for about two miles, the magnificent park of Thoresby opens upon our view. Well might Pemberton, “ the Wanderer,” who was a true lover of nature, say that this spot was to him the most “ exciting example of park scenery in the kingdom.” i54 ^hor^sby. The park includes an area of about thirteen miles in circumference, and it contains an unusually large quantity of deer. The lake is so arranged as to re¬ present an extensive river,and being amphitheatrically surrounded with lawns in varied and verdant slopes, has a fine effect. Buck Gates. A former mansion at Thoresby, the seat ol the Duke of Kingston, was destroyed by fire April 4th, 1745, when nothing was saved “ but the writings, plate, and some little of the best furnitureand the mansion built shortly afterwards by the last Duke of Kingston has just been taken down to give place to the present noble structure. Thoresby is not without interesting historical asso¬ ciations ; here was born the Lady Mary Pierrepont, who in 1712 married Mr. Edward Wortley Mon¬ tague, and consequently became Lady Mary Wortley Montague. ^hotjesbij. *55 At the age of twelve years she wrote in verse, and at nineteen translated the Enchiridion of Epictetus. She acquired a knowledge of the Greek, Latin, and French languages, and Bishop Burnet became her tutor. She was afterwards well known by her “ Letters” descriptive of Turkish Harems, and as the one who introduced into this country from Turkey the practice of inoculation, in defiance of an amount of opposition from clergy and laity seldom equalled. Of the former Lord Wharncliffe, in his “ Life and Letters” of this extraordinary woman, says “ they descanted from their pulpits on the impropriety of thus seeking to take events out of the hand of Providence.” Thoresby must be named as the hospitable retreat of the celebrated Corsican patriot, Pascal Paoli, who, having fought against the' Genoese and then the French, after a long and unequal contest was compelled to leave his once free and independent country in possession of Louis XV. and seek refuge with his friend the Duke of Kingston. The present noble owner is descended from Robert de Perpont, whose name is derived from the castle of Pierrcpont in Picardy in France, and who came into England with the Norman conqueror. Robert, as appears by Domesday Book, settled in the south of England, and held large possessions in Sussex, at Hurst Pierpoint, and other places, amounting to ten knights’ fees, under the famous William de Warren ; and also in Suffolk, where he held the lordships of Henestede and Wretham. About the middle of the thirteenth century his descendant in the fifth degree, Henry de Pierrepont, married Annora de Manvers, daughter of Michael de Manvers, and sister and heiress of Lionel de Manvers, who brought Holm- Pierrepont and other possessions in Nottinghamshire and elsewhere into the family. Sir Robert de Pierre- ^hoi;c8by. *5 6 pont, a son of Henry, was in 1306, 34 Edward I., with Edward, Prince of Wales, in the notable expe¬ dition into Scotland, when Sir Robert Bruce was de¬ feated at Methven; also in 3 Edward II. again in those wars. In 1315, 8 Edward II., he had summons to be at Newcastle with arms and horses to restrain the hostilities of the Scots. In 9 Edward II. he obtained a charter of Free-warren in all his demesne- lands in Holm, Holbeck-Woodhouse, Landford, and Weston in Nottinghamshire; also those in North and South Anston and Treeton, in the county of York. In 2d Edward II. he was made governor of Newark Castle, and in 1327, 1st Edward III., he was summoned to the Scotch war, and was one of the chief commanders there in the army, led by the young king in person. In consideration of the special services rendered by him in Scotland, he obtained a general pardon for all trespasses by him done in the Forest of Sherwood, as well in vert as venison, having been with the king in 1333 in the great battle of Hallidown. Edward II., by letter from Woodstock 27th June, 1316, wrote to “Robert de Perpont and others to raise two thousand footmen in the counties of Nottingham and Derby, to be led to Newcastle-on- Tine for the wars in Scotland.” In 1470 Henry Pierrepont b became famous for his faithful services against the Lancastrians, and had granted to him the third part of the manor of Staley (Staveley). Leaving no issue, Francis, his brother, succeeded to the inheritance, who left a son, Sir William Pierrepont, who was made a Knight Banneret 1513 for his exem¬ plary valour at the sieges of Therouenne and Tournay and “ the battle of Spurs.” He was succeeded a This Robert was second son of Henry Pierpoint and Annora de Manvers. His elder brother. Sir Simon Pierpoint, dying without male issue. b Henry Piorrepont was a descendant in the sixth degree from Robert Pierrepont, last mentioned. ^hoiic8by. i57 by George, his son, who received the honour of knighthood in 1546 from Edward VI., and died in the sixth of Elizabeth. Henry, his son and heir, married Frances, daughter of Sir William Cavendish and the celebrated “ Bess of Hardwick,’’ Countess of Shrewsbury, and dying in 1615, aged 69, left issue, Robert, who in 1627 was created Baron Pierrepont of Hom-Pierrepont, and Viscount Newark, and in 1628 advanced to the dignity of Earl of Kingston. He took an active part in the Parliamentary wars, on behalf of the king, and was accidentally killed before Gainsborough by those of his own party, while they were in pursuit of a vessel in which he was being carried captive to Hull July 30, 1643. He was called “ the good Earl of Kingston and having married Gertrude, daughter and co-heiress of Henry Talbot, fourth son to George, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, was succeeded by his eldest son Henry, who was created Marquis of Dorchester in 1643. At his death, in 1680, this title became extinct, but the earldom devolved on Robert, third earl, grandson and heir of William Pierrepont, Esq., of Thoresby, the Marquis’s next brother, who mar¬ ried a daughter and co-heiress of Sir Thomas Harris, of Tong Castle, county Salop. Robert, third earl, died in 1682, and was successively fol¬ lowed by his two brothers William and Evelyn. This Evelyn, the fifth earl, was created Marquis of Dorchester in 1706, and Duke of Kingston-upon-Hull in 1715. He married, first, Lady Mary P'ielding, daughter of William, third Earl of Denbigh, and secondly, Lady Isabella Bentinck, daughter of William, first Earl of Portland. By his first mar¬ riage he had three daughters, the eldest of whom was the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montague, and one son, William, Earl of Kingston, who died in 1713, while his father was Marquis of Dorchester, leaving a i5 8 t^hoqesby. son, Evelyn, afterwards second duke and K.G., who succeeded his grandfather in 1726, and on whose death in 1773 the titles became extinct. The second duke’s only sister, Lady Frances Pierre- pont, married in 1734 Philip Meadows, Esq., third son of Sir Philip Meadows, and left issue Charles, who succeeded to the estates of his uncle Evelyn, Duke of Kingston, and assumed by sign-manual, in 1788, the surname and arms of Pierrepont. He was created Baron Pierrepont of Holme-Pierrepont, and Viscount Newark in 1796, and advanced to the dignity of Earl Manvers in 1806; married Anne Orton, youngest daughter of John Mills, Esq., of Richmond, by whom he had issue Evelyn- Henry-Frederick, who died in 1801. Charles Her¬ bert, late earl, born August nth, 1778, who suc¬ ceeded in 1816, married in 1804 Mary Letitia, eldest daughter and co-heiress of the late Anthony Hardolph Eyre, of Grove Park, Notts., and had issue Charles- Evelyn-Viscount Newark in 1805 ; married, 1832, Emily Littleton, second daughter of Lord Hatherton, and died without issue 1850. Mary-Frances, married in 1845 Edward Christopher Egerton, Esq., M.P., brother to Lord Egerton of Tatton. Annora Charlotte, born in 1822,married in 1853 Charles-WatkinWilliams Wynn, Esq. Sydney-William Herbert, Viscount Newark, M.P., born 12th March, 1825, who married in 1852 Mademoiselle Georgiana-Jane-Elizabeth-Fanny de Franquetot, second daughter of Augustin Due de Coigny, of France, and succeeded in i860 as third Earl Manvers. He has rebuilt the house at Thoresby, and has issue Charles William Sydney Viscount Newark, born 2nd August, 1854; Evelyn Henry, born 23rd August, 1856; and Henry Sydney, born 18th August, 1863 ; and two daughters, Lady Emily Annora Charlotte and Lady Mary Augusta. The noble mansion may be considered as one of ^hotjesbi}. X S9 the most splendid modern additions to the long roll of baronial homes that dot the land so pleasantly, and which, with their parks and avenues, give us some of the finest thoughts of England and its people in their national home-like character. At the first glance the size and richness of the house disarm ordinary criticism, which latter feeling is re¬ placed by admiration. Upon a nearer approach, and truly to an architectural visitor, it will recommend itself as a good example of modern Elizabethan ; and the general public, or even the most careless idler, cannot fail to be impressed by its well-balanced masses, the magnificence of its details, and the beautiful picture it presents as a whole. It is built of Steetley stone, with raised quoins and dressings to windows, fair faced and deeply moulded, filled in with rock-faced Mansfield Woodhouse mag¬ nesian limestone laid in parallel courses, from the designs of A. Salvin, Esq., by Messrs. George Smith and Co., of London, under the care of Mr. Oldrieve, as clerk of the works. The former may be heartily congratulated on his beautiful and gifted design; the latter on the solid and careful manner in which that design has been carried out. Externally the principal fronts measure 180 feet on the east or principal entrance, 159 on the west, and 182 feet on the south or drawing room side ; the ex¬ ternal faces are hammer-dressed, with tooled quoins and dressings. Entering from the east, through the elaborate wrought-iron gates by Brawn and Downing, of Birmingham, crossing the court to the main doorway, and passing the porch, we stand upon the splendid encaustic tiles from Prussia, which compose the floor of the entrance hall. Two flights of steps, ten feet wide, then lead up to the great hall, 65 feet long, 31 feet wide, and 48 feet high to the apex of the open i6o ^hotjesby. hammer beam roof. The feet of the principals rest upon richly carved corbels, with shields on which are the armorial bearings of the family. A fine double transomed bay window, 16 feet wide and 24 feet high, filled to the first transome with stained glass, contain¬ ing armorial bearings, adds greatly to the effect of this noble hall. The walls are of wrought and rubbed Steetley stone, and the panelling, which is six feet high, is of light and dark oak, grown on the ad¬ joining forest; the floor, which is also of light forest oak, is laid in a pattern, and finished with parquetrie border three feet wide, of great richness, made in Vienna. A projecting chimney piece of Steetley stone, granite columns, and marble caps, the whole being carved most elaborately by Mr. J. Daymond, jun., of London, is a most interesting feature. The grand staircase at the end of the great hall is 33 feet by 31 feet, with well-hole 16 feet by 16 feet, from which we ascend to the first landing by steps 6 feet 8 inches wide. From this landing we ascend to the different floors by steps 6 feet 6 inches wide, on alternate sides of the well-hole. The steps are of Roche Abbey stone, with rich wrought-iron railing by Caslake, of London. The walls are of wrought and rubbed Steetley stone, with vaulted ceilings of the same material over well-hole 60 feet high. The dining-room, which is 40 feet by 26 feet, and 20 feet high, is handsomely panelled in walnut of two shades, the doors being en suite. It has two bay windows, looking south and east respectively. The ceiling is of good geometric design, and an enriched frieze 1 foot 6 inches deep, containing fruit, &c., surrounds the room. The small drawing-room, 20 feet by 25 feet, is hung with beautiful satin, and has an oak floor, with par¬ quetrie border 2 feet wide. The doors are framed ^hor,e$bi) 161 of beautiful wainscot, with panels of Russian maple, surrounded by a margin of bird’s-eye maple and satinwood mouldings. The ceiling has a pink and gold enriched centre, and a most beautiful designed frieze. The library, an important room with large octagonal bay window, is 44 feet long by 25 feet wide. Modern Elizabethan panelling in light and dark oak, with wainscot bookshelves, surround this room, and the walls are hung with red damask. The chimney-piece in this apartment is worthy of great admiration as a work of art; it is of the same date as the other fittings of the room, and is 14 feet 6 inches high, and 10 feet wide. The principal subject of the design is a scene in Sherwood Forest, magnificently carved by Robin¬ son, of Newcastle, in Birkland oak, introducing that monarch of the forest the Major or Queen Oak, a herd of deer, with a foreground of beautifully rendered fern, &c., supported on either side of the fireplace by statuettes of Robin Hood and Little John. The pillar grate is a fine piece of work in bronze and bright steel, manufactured for the purpose at a great cost. The floor is of oak, with parquetrie border two feet wide, and covered with a carpet of Indian work. The ceiling, of very chaste geometric design, is, with the frieze, highly ornamented. The large drawing-room is a noble apartment 53 feet by 25 feet, and worthy of the taste and wealth of its possessor. This room contains two very beautiful statuary marble chimney pieces, having figures sitting on canted angles representing the Seasons. The grates and fenders are of burnished steel, with ormolu mouldings and figures intended to represent the hap¬ piness of an English fireside. The walls are hung with light blue satin damask, with graceful silver grey figures thereon, the frieze above being white and gold. The panelled ceiling is coffered, and orna- 162 ^hoijesbij mented over all in pale salmon and light blue, with white and gold enrichments. The large bay windows look south and west. The oak floor with its parquetrie border, the rich walnut-wood framing, bird’s-eye maple panels, Russian maple margins, satin wood mouldings, and splendid Indian carpet, all combine to form a picture worthy of our highest admiration. Leaving the billiard-room, 20 feet by 18 feet 6 inches, with its light and dark forest oak fittings, we come to Lady Manvers’ boudoir, which is 20 feet by 19 feet, with a bay window looking towards the west. The ceiling is remarkably rich, as also are the walls, which are panelled, having richly carved frames, filled with Aubuseen tapestry. The chimney-piece in this room is from a palace in Milan, and is elaborately carved in statuary marble. Three Cupids on each side holding fish, birds, &c., form the principal feature in the composition, which is one of great merit, and together with the other decorations makes this room well worthy of attention. The rest of the mansion is carried out in the same complete and splendid style as those we have noticed. On the first chamber floor there are twenty-nine rooms, with beautifully polished red pine woodwork, enriched ceilings, and French papered walls. Of bachelors’ rooms there are eleven ; of servants’ bed¬ rooms fourteen, and a mezzanine floor of ten bed¬ rooms and bath room for the ladies’ maids. The gas-fittings throughout are hammered and bur¬ nished work, by Brawn and Downing, of Birmingham. A lift for coals and luggage, and a fire main, with water at high pressure, and all necessary hose, &c., are provided on each story. The terrace is tastefully laid out with ornamental flower beds, having an octagonal fountain 30 feet in diameter in the centre, with four smaller ones round it, while gazebos of octagonal form, surmounted by h o i] e s b y. 163 Elizabethan perforated tracery, appropriately close the vista at either end. The gardens are to the east of the mansion, and comprise eight and a half acres of ground, five and a half of which are enclosed by brick walls, the re¬ mainder, which is in slips, is on the east, north, and west sides, and an orchard on the north. The kitchen garden is intersected by two fine broad walks, 550 feet long, which, from north to south, passes out through a pair of very splendid iron gates into the park. The lofty conservatory occupies a central posi¬ tion in the long range of well stocked forcing houses, of which there are about twenty, and are about 560 feet in length. Avenue, Thoresby Park. CHAPTER XI. Enffnrii Slbtotj. HIS fine rural liberty was anciently called Rugforde or Rumforde. Before the Conquest it was held by Ulf the Saxon, and after¬ wards was of the fee of Gilbert le Gant, nephew to the Conqueror. This Gilbert le Gant was succeeded by his son Walter, whose eldest son, Gilbert, married the Countess of Lincoln, and was himself created Earl of Lincoln. Here, in 1148, he founded a Cistercian Abbey, in honour of the Virgin Mary, for a colony of monks whom he brought from the abbey of Rievaulx, in Yorkshire. The name of Sir Philip de Ryme the first Abbot appears as a witness to a charter of Gilbert, Earl of Lincoln, to Pontefract monastery. From the foundation to the dissolution there were 17 Abbots, the last of whom was Thomas Doncaster. At the dissolution, the Abbey contained 15 monks whose revenues amounted to ^254 6s. 8d. After their expulsion Henry VIII. granted the Abbey and estate to Sir John Markham, for 21 years, at £22 8s. od. per annum : afterwards, with the manor of Rotherham which had previously belonged to the Abbey, and with much other property, he gave it to George, fourth Earl of Shrewsbury and Waterford, in exchange for many large estates in Ireland, and in consideration of the prompt measures he adopted to suppress the rebellion in the north, known as the “ Pilgrimage of Grace.” Rufford became an occasional residence of this noble family, and it was here that the celebrated Bess Buffer'd Abbey. i6 5 of Hardwick, with her usual ambitious scheming, brought about a hasty marriage between her daughter Elizabeth and Charles Stuart, younger brother of Darnley, the father of James 1st. Charles was travel¬ ling towards Scotland in 1574, with his mother, the Countess of Lennox; the latter being somewhat indisposed, they were prevailed on by Bess to rest a few days at Rufiford, when the above-mentioned wed¬ ding took place. This marriage gave great offence to Queen Elizabeth, and the two mothers were in consequence committed to the Tower, but were afterwards released. In the meantime the young Countess of Lennox became the mother of the ill- fated Arabella Stuart, whose near proximity to the Crown was the cause of a life of persecution and woe. 0 With reference to this affair the following amusing letter was written by the Earl of Shrewsbury, the husband of Bess, to Lord Burghley, in which, though professing to treat the matter lightly, as he knew it would be otherwise looked upon by his jealous sovereign, he evidently tries to shift the burden from his own shoulders. “ The Lady Lennox being as I heard sickly, rested her at Ruf- ford five days and kept most her bed-chamber, and in that time the young man her son fell into liking with my wife’s daughter before intended, and such liking was between them as my wife tells me she makes no doubt of a match, and hath so tied themselves upon their own liking as cannot part. My wife hath sent him to my lady, and the young man is so far in love that belike he is sick without her. This taking effect, I shall be well at quiet, for there is few noblemen’s sons in England that she hath not prayed me to deal for at one time or other, and now this comes unlooked for without thanks to me.” b Mary, the wife of Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury and daughter of Bess of Hardwick, resided at Rufford in her widowhood, 0 and the estate passed into that a Life and Letters of Lady Arabella Stuart, by E. Cooper, vol. i, p. 30. l> See Ibid > p. 31. c Stated on the authority of a MS. note by the late Joseph Hunter 166 Buffot]d Abbey. family by the marriage of her sister-in-law, Lady Mary Talbot, with Sir George Savile, of Barrowby, Lincolnshire. Sir George was succeeded by his grand¬ son of the same name, his eldest son, Sir George, who married Anne, daughter of Sir William Wentworth, of Wentworth Woodhouse, and sister to the first Earl of Strafford, having died before him. Sir George Savile, second Baronet, died unmarried in his minority, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir William Savile, the royalist general commander, who married Anne, daughter of Thomas, Lord Keeper Coventry. This lady was noted for her courage and resolution during the civil wars, especially at the siege of Sheffield Castle, where she remained for security after her husband’s death, which had taken place six months before the siege. Lady Savile’s case was peculiarly distressing, for we are told by Dr. P. Barwick in the life of his brother, the Dean of St. Paul’s, that “ this gallant lady, famous even for her warlike actions beyond her sex, had been besieged by the rebels in Sheffield Castle, which they battered on all sides by great guns, tho’ she was big with child, and had so little regard for her sex, that in that condition they refused a midwife she had sent for, the liberty of going to her. Yet this unheard-of barbarity was so far from moving her that she resolved to perish rather than surrender the castle. But the walls being every where full of cracks with age, and ready to fall, the soldiers of the garrison began to mutiny, not so much concerned for their own danger, as for the lamentable condition of this noble lady, so near the time of her falling in labour; for she was brought to bed the night after the castle was sur¬ rendered.”* She was the mother of Sir George, fourth Baronet, afterwards created Marquis of Halifax. a Hunter's “ Hallamshire.” Buffotjd Abbey. 167 This Sir George Savile, fourth Baronet, who enlarged Rufford, was created Marquis of Halifax, by King Charles II. in 1682 ; but that title became extinct on the death of his son William, in 1700, who left only three daughters, one of whom marrying Richard, Earl of Cork and Burlington, carried the Savile estates at Barrowby, Lincolnshire, to that family; whence they descended to her only daughter and heiress, Lady Charlotte Boyle, afterwards Duchess of Devon¬ shire, in the possession of which family they still remain. The Rufford estate then descended to the next male heir, Sir John Savile, the sixth Baronet, who dying unmarried in 1702, was succeeded by his cousin, Sir George Savile, the seventh Baronet, whose son, Sir George Savile, the eighth and last Baronet, died un¬ married in 1784, and left his Irish estates and those at Brierley, in Yorkshire, to his niece, Mrs. Foljambe, of Osberton, the daughter and heir of his eldest sister, Arabella, who had married John Thornhagh- Hewitt, Esquire, of Osberton and Shireoaks, and those at Rufford and Thornhill to Richard, the second son of his younger sister, wife of the fourth Earl of Scarborough. On the death of his eldest brother in 1807, he succeeded to the Scarborough title and estate, while the estate of Rufford passed to his younger brother, the Honourable and Reverend John Lumley Savile, who in 1832 succeeded his eldest brother as Earl of Scarborough. He held both the Sandbeck and Rufford estates till his death in 1835, and was succeeded by his son, John Savile Lumley Savile, the eighth Earl of Scarborough, Viscount and Baron Lumley, and also Viscount Lum¬ ley in Ireland ; he dying in 1856, left it to his son, Henry Savile, Esquire, the present owner and occupier of Rufford Abbey. During the Commonwealth, Rufford Abbey was i68 BuffoAbbey. one of the places appointed for a rendezvous of per¬ sons disaffected to the government, “ where about 500 horse met and had with them, in the field, a cart load of horse arms, to arm such as would come to them. But upon a sudden a great fear fell upon them, inso¬ much that they left their arms in the open field, every one shifted for himself.”” Through a massive gateway, the pillars of which are surmounted by the arms of the family,you enter an avenue of lofty lime, beech, and elm trees, and im¬ mediately the mansion breaks upon your view. On ascending a flight of steps, and through a fine stone portal, the architectural decorations of which are the arms of the late noble possessor in carved stone, you enter the large hall. A beautifully carved oaken screen at once attracts attention, on which is the motto “Murus aeneusconscientia sana,” in quaint characters; and abounding in rich Elizabethan tracery, shields, ribands, grotesque masks, and bold projecting mould- ings. Other objects in this room are worthy of attention. There is the richly-carved chimney piece of Caen stone, bearing the family arms, surmounted with elegant carvings of masks, tracery, finials, &c. Then there is the open timbered roof—the spacious music gallery—the raised dais—the floor of tinted brick, in mosaic devices, and the fine mellow tone of the oak panelling. The dining-room contains amongst other portraits those of the celebrated senator, Sir George Savile, by Wilson ; Lord Thomas Coventry, keeper of the Great Seal in the time of Charles I.; George, Marquis of Halifax ; Lady Gertrude Pierrepont, and the Countess of Northampton. The drawing-room is elegantly and profusely de¬ corated with carvings of flowers, medallions, ribands, a Declaration of his Highness, Cromwell, 1655. Ruffoip) Abbey. 169 and wreaths in white and gold. The walls are hung with costly crimson silk, embroidered with flowers in white silk, panelled with carved gold frames, enriched cornices, splendid furniture, elaborate needlework, and numerous articles of taste and elegance. The billiard-room contains portraits of Charles I; Anne, daughter of Lord Coventry; Sir William Savile and his wife; the Countess of Scarborough ; George, Earl of Shrewsbury, and others. The library is a beautiful apartment, with a highly enriched ceiling, and contains a good collec¬ tion of English literature. Lord Scarborough’s sitting-room and bed-room con¬ tain some very ancient and rare tapestry, amongst which is the Coronation of Queen Esther. The state bed-room is also hung with very fine tapestry, consisting of scenes in Roman History, amongst which is the Procession of Marcus Aurelius to the Temple of Janus. The picture gallery is 114 feet long, and 36 feet wide, but many of the pictures which formerly graced the walls have been removed. The chapel, in its present shape, was fitted up in the time of Charles II. There is a fine old slab in the floor with a cross incised, surrounded by an in¬ scription in Latin to the following effect: “ Here lies brother Robert de Markham, a monk of this house, for whose soul we pray the Lord that it may rest in peace. He died sixteenth day of the calends of April, in the year of our Lord, 1309.” This, we believe, was found many years ago during some excavation near the Abbey, and was most pro¬ bably from the old church. The peculiarly carved finials on the seats are deserving of notice. In the Gallery, or part devoted to the ladies, the walls are covered with a very rare old gilded and embossed 170 &uf{oi ]4 Abbey. leather, and the numerous folio prayer books here bear the date 1659. But few remains of the original Abbey now exist; a part of what may have been the refectory, now used as a servants’ hall, is well deserving the atten¬ tion of the archaeologist, and is represented in the tail-piece to this chapter. Its position is from north to south. The Stuarts often visited at Rufford. Thoroton says, “ This place hath often entertained King James and King Charles his son, being very pleasant and commodious for hunting in the forest of Shirewood.” George the IV, when Prince of Wales, visited Ruf¬ ford. At this time the elder Dibdin was engaged as Master of the Ceremonies, and during one of his walks in the surrounding park he saw a woodman felling an oak, which is said to have inspired him with his celebrated song, “ Woodman’s stroke,” which was written and sung at the time. Servants’ Hall. Rufford Abbey. CHAPTER XII. dDn % Dfsrint nf nil tjjr JfnttitigljitnisljirB lnkmis nub tljp /nmilips pnssBssxng tjjfn: from m Bourn, in tip person nf their rnmmon Slnrestress, tjjr relehnxteh dBli^nhetij, Countess nf Ijjrrntsbttni, By Cecil G. Savile Foljambe. T is a fact worthy of notice, that all the large estates known as the Nottinghamshire Dukeries, and the families to whom they belong, have sprung from one common source, in the person of the celebrated Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, more usually known as “ Bess of Hardwick.” Probably no woman ever amassed so large a for¬ tune, or provided better for her children. She began life as the daughter of a plain squire with a portion of forty marks. She was one of the five daughters of John Hardwick, of Hardwick, in Derbyshire, by Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Leeke, of Hasland; she was born in 1520, and became co-heiress with her four sisters on the death of her brother, John Hard¬ wick, of Hardwick, though she appears to have had the greater part, if not the whole of his estate. She was four times married, each time with an increase of rank, but only had issue by her second husband. 172 descent of the ^families of the Surviving her last husband, she lived to enjoy the estates of them all for seventeen years; for she in¬ duced each husband to settle his estates upon her or upon her children absolutely. She thus inherited the wealth of her first and third husbands, and with it enriched her children by her second husband. She drove hard bargains with her brother, John Hardwick, and with her brother-in-law, Francis Leche, and ac¬ quired their estates of Hardwick Hall and Chatsworth; and by the marriages she arranged between her children and those of her fourth husband by his first wife, (her step-children) she secured his estates also to her descendants. She is described as having been “proud, selfish, unfeeling, and cruel. She bought and sold land, was a builder, a usurer, a farmer, a coal and lead merchant, a courtier, and a politician. She was the oppressor of her husband, the tyrant of his family, the aggrandizer of her own her ruling pas¬ sion before and during her last widowhood was for building, and she built the houses of Chatsworth, Hardwick, Worksop Manor, and Owlcotes. She was beginning to build a large house at Owlcotes when she died in 1607, at the age of 87. The masons were at the time stopped from work by a hard frost, and the tradition is that it had been foretold that she should live as long as she continued to build, which prophecy, if it were really predicted, certainly came to pass. The first of her four husbands was Robert Barley, of Barley (or Barlow), Esq., in Derbyshire, to whom she was married in 1534, when in her 14th year; but he dying soon after, left her a large jointure charged upon his estates.. So large indeed were these charges, that notwithstanding the extent of the property, they so far ruined the Barley family that she eventually in 1592, or nearly sixty years after her first husband’s death, compelled his nephew and heir, James Barley, liottingharashiije !tS)uhej|ie$. *73 to sell them to her son-in-law Gilbert, seventh Earl of Shrewsbury, for an almost nominal sum. This Gilbert was also her step-son, as will be shewn presently. After remaining a widow for twelve years she mar¬ ried in 1546 Sir William Cavendish, (as his third wife). He was a younger son of the family of Caven¬ dish, of Cavendish, in Suffolk, but was possessed of considerable property in Hertfordshire and elsewhere, consisting chiefly of confiscated abbey lands. So great was her influence with him that she induced him to sell his estates in the south and to settle in Derbyshire, where they purchased Chatsworth from the Agard family, to whom it had been sold a short time previously by Francis Leche the husband of her sister, Alice Hardwick. On acquiring Chatsworth, Sir William pulled down the old house and com¬ menced building a new one. It was not, however, finished in his lifetime, but his widow completed it on a larger scale than was originally intended. It was again re-built by her great great grandson, the fourth Earl and first Duke of Devonshire, on a still more magnificent scale, in the latter part of the seventeenth century. Sir William Cavendish died in 1557, leaving, by Elizabeth Hardwick, three sons and three daughters, of whom presently. His widow mar¬ ried, as her third husband, Sir William St. Loe, Captain of the Guard to Queen Elizabeth, but by him she had no issue. Yet she induced him to settle his large estates in Somersetshire, Gloucestershire, and elsewhere upon her and her children, to the ex¬ clusion of his own family, and she inherited these on his death. Her fourth husband was George Talbot, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, at that time the first subject in England, (the Dukedoms of Norfolk and Somerset being in abeyance,) and one of the richest and most powerful men in the kingdom. Before, however, she would consent to marry him, she im- 1 74 descent of the families of the posed on him the condition that his eldest surviving son, Gilbert, afterwards seventh Earl of Shrews¬ bury, by his first wife, Lady Gertrude, daughter of Thomas Manners, first Earl of Rutland, should marry her youngest daughter, Mary Cavendish ; and that her eldest son, Henry Cavendish, should marry his daughter, Lady Grace Talbot. This double marriage took place at Sheffield in 1567—8. George, Earl of Shrewsbury, was soon after his marriage appointed guardian of Mary, Queen of Scots, then a prisoner in England ; and a considerable por¬ tion of her captivity was spent at Sheffield Castle, with occasional visits to Chatsworth, Worksop Manor, and to Sheffield Manor House. The Earl died in 1590, but his wife survived him seventeen years, dying, as we have before said, in 1607, at the age of 87, and was buried in All Saints’ Church, Derby, in a vault in which 44 other members of the Cavendish family have since been laid. A magnificent monument which she had erected there in her lifetime, may still be seen. But to return to her children: of her three sons, the eldest, Henry Cavendish, was of Tutbury, in Staffordshire. He married, as stated above, Lady Grace Talbot, his mother’s step-daughter, but had no issue by her. He died in 1616, and was buried at Edensor. The second son, William Cavendish, inherited Chatsworth, Hardwick, &c., from his mother; was created, in 1605, Baron Cavendish, of Hardwick, and in 1618, Earl of Devonshire. He died in 1625, and was buried at Edensor, in which church there is a large monument to their memory. His great grand¬ son, the fourth Earl, was created, in 1694, Duke of Devonshire, and thence have descended the succes¬ sive Dukes to the present time. The third son, Sir Charles Cavendish, was of Wei- ■Nottinghamshire Buhcrjes. 1 75 beck Abbey and Bolsover, which last had been the property of his brother-in-law Gilbert, Earl of Shrews¬ bury, but which he purchased, for a nominal sum, through a stipulation made by his mother shortly be¬ fore her death. He married Catherine, daughter and heiress of Cuthbert, Lord Ogle, and had a son, Sir William Cavendish, afterwards created successively Earl, Marquis, and Duke of Newcastle, and who was the celebrated commander in the civil war. He was also the author of several works, one of which is en¬ titled “A General System of Horsemanship.” His son, Henry Cavendish, second Duke of New¬ castle left several daughters, his only son having died in his lifetime. Most of his estates were inherited by one of them, Lady Margaret Cavendish, who had married John Holies, fourth Earl of Clare, in whose favour the Dukedom of Newcastle was revived in 1694. He was killed whilst hunting in 1711, and left an only daughter, Lady Henrietta Cavendish-Holies, who married Edward Harley, second Earl of Oxford, and had an only daughter and heiress, Lady Mar¬ garet Cavendish Harley, who marrying William Ben- tinck, second Duke of Portland, carried Welbeck Abbey and Bolsover into that family, and from her the present fifth Duke of Portland is directly descended. This Duke of Newcastle, who was killed in 1711, in addition to the estates he left to his daughter Henrietta, Countess of Oxford, left no inconsiderable portion of his property, viz. Clumber and Haughton Park, to his nephew, Thomas Pelham-Holles, second Lord Pelham, who was the son of Thomas, Lord Pelham, by Lady Grace Holies his wife, daughter of Gilbert Holies, third Earl of Clare; and was descended from Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, through the Pierreponts: Gilbert, third Earl of Clare having married Grace, daughter of William Pierrepont of Thoresby. 176 descent of the families of the This Thomas, second Lord Pelham, assumed, in compliance with his uncle’s will, the additional name of Holies, and in 1715, was created Duke of New¬ castle-upon-Tyne, with remainder to his brother the Right Hon. Henry Pelham and his issue male. His brother dying without issue male, he received a new creation in 1756, as Duke of Newcastle-under-Lyne, with a special remainder to his nephew, Henry Clin¬ ton, ninth Earl of Lincoln, K. G., son of the Duke’s sister, the Hon. Lucy Pelham, by Henry Clinton, seventh Earl of Lincoln, and who had married Catherine Pelham, daughter and co-heiress of the Right Honourable Henry Pelham, before mentioned; and accordingly he succeeded as second Duke on the death of his uncle in 1768. From him the present Duke of Newcastle, the sixth of the last creation, is directly descended. Having thus traced the descents of the Dukes of Devonshire, Portland, and Newcastle, and their estates from the sons of Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, Bess of Hardwick, we must go back to her daughters to shew that the other Nottingham¬ shire Dukes and their estates have derived from them, viz. the Dukes of Kingston and Norfolk. Of her three daughters, the eldest, Frances, mar¬ ried Henry Pierrepont, of Holme-Pierrepont, in Not¬ tinghamshire. She appears to have inherited Owl- cotes, and perhaps Thoresby also from her mother. Their son, Robert Pierrepont was in 1627 created Earl of Kingston-upon-Hull. His second son, William Pierrepont, of Thoresby, had (with a son Robert, who was father of the third, fourth, and fifth Earls, the latter of whom was created Duke of Kings¬ ton in 1715) three daughters married respectively to Henry Cavendish, second Duke of Newcastle; to Gilbert Holies, third Earl of Clare; and to George Savile, first Marquis of Halifax. Evelyn, second Nottinghamshire Nubcijies. 177 Duke of Kingston, grandson of the first Duke, dying without issue in 1773, his estates were inherited by his nephew, Charles Medows, Esq., who was the son of his sister Lady Frances Pierrepont, by Philip Medows, Esq. He assumed the name of Pierrepont, and was in 1806 created Earl Manvers, and his grand¬ son is the present and third Earl. The second daughter of Bess of Hardwick and Sir William Cavendish was Elizabeth, who was married at Rufford in 1574, to Charles Stuart, fifth Earl of Lennox, (younger brother of Henry, Lord Darnley, who was father of King James the First) and by him she was mother of the unfortunate Lady Arabella Stuart, who died a prisoner in the Tower in 1615. The sad history of her misfortunes is too well known to need repetition here, and it need only be added that she had been married in 1610, to Sir William Seymour, the second son of Edward, Earl of Hert¬ ford, by Lady Catherine Grey, daughter and co-heiress of Henry, Duke of Suffolk (and grand-daughter mat¬ ernally of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, by Mary, Queen Dowager of France and sister of King Henry vill.), but had no issue by him. He married after¬ wards Lady Frances Deverux, eldest daughter of the ill-fated Earl of Essex, and was in 1660 restored to the Dukedom of Somerset by the reversal of the at¬ tainder of his grand-father, the Protector Somerset, who was beheaded in 1552. Their third daughter was Mary Cavendish, who married in 1567-8, Gilbert Talbot, afterwards seventh Earl of Shrewsbury, her mother’s stepson. They had three'daughters and co-heiresses, but only the youngest left issue. This was Lady Alathea Talbot, married to Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, sixth in descent from the first Duke of Norfolk, and with her Worksop Manor and the large Sheffield estates passed to the family of Howard, in whose hands they have ever i 7 « descent of the families of the since remained until Worksop Manor was sold in 1840, by the then Duke of Norfolk to the Duke of Newcastle. The Sheffield property and other estates in the neighbourhood, however, still belong to the present Duke of Norfolk. It has now been shown how the five Dukeries have descended from Bess of Hardwick; and though Ruf- ford cannot be called a Dukery yet it has been the seat of a Marquisate, and may fairly be included among the large places of North Nottinghamshire. It belonged to George, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury,husband of Bess of Hardwick, as also did Brierley Manor, in Yorkshire, and these estates passed to the Savile family on the marriage of his daughter, Lady Mary Talbot, with Sir George Savile, of Thornhill, in Yorkshire, and of Barrowby, in Lincolnshire, who was created a Baronet in 1611. Their great grandson was created Marquis of Halifax, and was succeeded by his son William, as second Marquis. He left three daughters and co-heiresses, of whom Lady Dorothy married Richard Boyle, fourth Earl of Cork and third of Burlington, whose only daughter and heiress, Lady Charlotte Boyle, Baroness Clifford, married William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, carrying the Savile estates at Barrowby, in Lincolnshire, into the Cavendish family. The rest of the Savile estates, however, at Rufford and in Yorkshire, went to the male heir, Sir John Savile, sixth Baronet, who was succeeded by his cousin, Sir George Savile, whose son, Sir George Savile, the eighth and last Baronet died unmarried in 1784. The representation then fell to the heirs of his two sisters. Arabella, the eldest, had married John Thorn- hagh, of Osberton and Sturton, who afterwards took the additional name of Hewitt for the Shireoaks estate. Their only surviving daughter, Mary Arabella, mar- Nottinghamshire Bullies. 179 ried in 1774, Francis Ferrand Foljambe, Esq., of Aldwarke, and they inherited the Savile estates of Brierley Manor and in Ireland. The latter were sold by Mr. Foljambe about the year 1800, but Brierley is still in the possession of his great grandson and representative, Francis John Savile Foljambe, of Osberton, the senior co-heir to the representation of this branch of the Savile family. He is also descended from Bess of Hardwick and the Cavendishes Dukes of Newcastle, through his mother, who was daughter of Sir William Milner, of Nun-Appleton, by Harriet Elizabeth, daughter of Lord Edward Bentinck, second son of the second Duke of Portland, by Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley. The other sister of Sir George Savile was Barbara, married to Richard, fourth Earl of Scarborough. The Rufford and Thornhill estates were left to her second son with a shifting clause that they might not be held by the possessor of the title, with a remainder to the Foljambe family in case of the failure of their issue, and her heirs are now the co-representatives of this branch of the Savile family. We hope these descents are now made clear with the help of the accompanying skeleton pedigree, and that it is shewn that not only did the Countess of Shrewsbury’s ambitious schemes succeed so well that she lived to see all these families that she had founded, settled on the estates she had secured for them, but that they have all continued to flourish to the present day, more than two centuries and a half afterwards, and still enjoy the lands which she had settled upon them. In conclusion it may be added that another Not¬ tinghamshire Duke—the Duke of St. Albans, though not included in the Dukeries, and though his estate has not come to him from Bess of Hardwick, is de¬ scended from her through Lady Catherine Ponsonby, i8o decent of the ^families, 2fcc. wife of Aubrey, fifth Duke of St. Albans and daughter of William, second Earl of Bessborough, by Lady Caroline Cavendish, daughter of William, third Duke of Devonshire. Kiveton Park, the property of the Duke of Leeds, was also at one time considered one of the Dukeries. Though the present Duke of Leeds is not himself descended from Bess of Hardwick, yet he has mar¬ ried one of her descendants in the person of Fanny, daughter of George, fourth Lord Rivers, by Susan, daughter of Granville Leveson-Gower, first Earl Granville and Lady Harriet Cavendish his wife, sister and co-heiress of William, sixth Duke of Devonshire. - -- ^fjertoooti forest. < 3 ' Vfj) C H A PT E R XIII. (fttjB Jlnriint listnnj nf ilimunnii hm\. By the Rev. J. Stacye, M.A. O the attention of the traveller, approaching the village of Ollerton, in Nottinghamshire, from the north, a scene of no ordinary in¬ terest and sylvan beauty presents itself. There he will behold around him, on every side, an assemblage of venerable oaks, some indeed retaining much of their pristine vigour and comeliness, but more with their heads dead and blanched, their ample boles hollowed, and shewing every stage of decripi- tude and decay, and giving plain indications of ex¬ treme antiquity. As these are found in an apparently unenclosed state, and are interspersed with abundance of furze, heather, and ferns, with other wild sylvan accompaniments, he will feel as though he were within the precincts of an ancient forest. And such is truly the case, for he is passing through a portion of the wood of Bilhagh, which with its sister wood of Birk- land, adjoining it to the west, together covering nearly i 500 acres, formed part of the celebrated Forest of Sherwood, which once included within its precincts a great portion of the central part of the county of Nottingham. Ancient Iftistony of 184 And when we mention the name of Sherwood, what visions present themselves to our minds of bold Robin Hood, Little John, Will. Scarlet, and their lawless associates, and their various adventures with the sheriff of Nottingham and others, so dear to our fore¬ fathers of many a generation, in legend and ballad ; one version of which, under the title of “Lytcll Gcste of Robyn Hode',' from the press of Wynken de Worde, forms one of our earliest printed books ; while we find the subject alluded to as early as the middle of the fourteenth century, in the “ Vision of Piers Ploughman',' when the character of Slotn is intro¬ duced saying, “ I kan not parfitly my paternoster, as the Priest it sayeth, But I can rymes of Robyn Hode and Randolf, Earl of Chester.” We must, however, check our imaginations on this subject, and turn to a more prosaic and matter-of-fact view of the history of this Forest of Sherwood. Though we cannot but here enter our protest against the sceptical spirit of the present day, which has led many to doubt the very existence of Robin Hood, and to treat the long-cherished traditions of him as no better than myths. For there seems no reasonable ground for doubting that what has been so early and so generally believed must have had some substantial foundation, though we are by no means called upon to give credit to all the exploits which we find at¬ tributed to this celebrated outlaw. Many of these, no doubt, if not entirely inventions, put forth to em¬ bellish and to excite interest in a story already cur¬ rent, are probably to be attributed to other persons of after ages, who have in their general character and deeds borne a resemblance to some real and eminent prototype ; as we know to have been the case with most of the heroes of antiquity. This view of the subject seems to derive considerable confirmation $hei[twood Ifot|est. i 35 from the designation given to marauders of that stamp in general, in our ancient laws and other docu¬ ments where they are denominated “ Robert’s men.” In the British period we have no particular records of the state of this district. It formed part of the residence of the powerful tribe of the Coritani, who inhabited the midland counties of Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, Rutland, Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and Lincolnshire. And doubtless at that time great part of the district was covered by a dense primeval forest, well adapted to the wants and habits of a peo¬ ple who lived chiefly by the produce of the chase. During the Roman occupation of our island, it is evident that this district was well known to that peo¬ ple. Various Roman camps have been discovered in different parts of the forest of Sherwood. These would, no doubt, be found necessary to keep in sub¬ jection the warlike inhabitants, who from their sylvan coverts would be ever ready to make incursions on their foreign invaders. At the latter end of the last century, Major Hay- man Rookc gave to the Society of Antiquaries an account of several of these camps : he mentioned, for instance, one at the west extremity of the county near Pleasley Park, 600 yards in length and 146 in breadth, of pretty regular form, with its ditches re¬ maining ; another, which he considered an explora¬ tory camp, near the east end of his own village, of Mansfield Woodhouse, on an eminence called Winney Hill; a third in Hexgrave Park; a fourth at a place called Combs, near the same neighbourhood, where Roman bricks have been frequently dug up. He also mentions other camps at a place called “Oldox,” i.e. probably “Old Works,” near Oxton, and at Berry Hill. Major Rooke also discovered the remains of two 3 i86 Ancient i$toy of extensive Roman villas, a mile or so to the west of Mansfield Woodhouse. These were very near each other: the one he considers to have been a “villa urbana ” or residence of some Roman officer of dis¬ tinction ; the other a “ villa rustica ” or farm house belonging to the superior mansion. We may well suppose that this site was selected for the purpose of enjoying the pleasures of the chase, of which we have clear indications in the antlers of deer which were found among the ruins. A Roman road also appears to have crossed the Forest, branching off from the great Foss Way, pro¬ bably at the station named “ Ad Pontem,” in the Antonine Itinerary, which is supposed to have been situated at Farndon, near Newark. It passed through or near Mansfield, where Roman coins have been found, and so by the camp near Pleasley Park to the neighbourhood of Chesterfield, when it would join the road leading from Derventio or Little Chester, near Derby, to the north. As regards the Saxon period we have little know¬ ledge respecting this district, except as we may gather from the Domesday survey, that various settlements had been formed within its precincts, many of which, as Mansfield, Edwinstowe, Warsop, Clune, Carburton, Clumber, Budby, Thoresby, and others, are there set down as having belonged to King Edward the Confessor, and as having afterwards become the pro¬ perty of the Conqueror. It is worthy of observation, however, as regarding the Saxon times, that the great battle in which Edwin the first Saxon King of Northumbria was slain, when fighting against Penda King of Mercia and Caadwaller King of Wales, most probably took place, not as has been generally supposed at Hatfield, near Doncaster, but at Hatfield in this neighbourhood, and that his body was buried at the village near this $her ( wood hottest. 187 place, which from that circumstance derived its name of “ Edwinstowe, or the place of Edwin.” Such, at least, was the opinion which the learned Abraham de la Pryme, who being a native of Hatfield, near Don¬ caster, and very zealous for its antiquarian repute, was compelled^ no doubt, somewhat reluctantly, to adopt. In the Domesday survey the Forest of Sherwood is not mentioned as such, but, as we have already in¬ timated, many places are named within its precincts as members of the King’s great manor of Mansfield. And this circumstance of the crown possessing already so much property here, would greatly facili¬ tate the operation of converting it into one of the great hunting grounds of our Norman sovereigns, who were, most of them, passionately addicted to the chase. It would thus become a royal forest, and be brought under the cruel operation of the forest laws, which punished the least infraction of their injunc¬ tions with the severest penalties, even to the loss of life or limb. The earliest express notice of the Forest of Sher¬ wood occurs in the 1st year of King Henry the II., when William Peverel, the younger, answered respect¬ ing the plea of the forest. He appears to have had the whole profit and control of the district under the crown. These lapsed to the King upon the forfeiture of his possessions, and were for some time admin¬ istered by the sheriffs of the county, in whose accounts they appear, with payments for foresters and other officers, and also with an item of £40 per annum to the canons of Newstead, the well-known monastery within Sherwood. In the 12th year of the reign of that king, Robert de Caux, Lord of Laxton, a farmer under the crown, answers for £20; and in the 15th Hemy II. Reginald de Laci for the same sum, “pro censu forcslce" under i88 Ancient history of Robert Fitz-Ralph, then sheriff. 8 In “the Forest book” b is preserved a copy of a charter which was granted by John, Earl of Mortyn, afterwards King of England, to Matilda de Caux and Ralph Fitz-Stephen her husband, confirming to them and her heirs the office of chief foresters in the counties of Nottingham and Derby, and of all the liberties and free customs which any of the ancestors of the said Matilda had ever held. This lady died in 8th Henry ill. A.D. 1223, and was buried, it seems, at the church of Brampton, near Chesterfield, where Adam Fitz-Peter her first husband had a manor. There her tombstone was dug up in the churchyard more than a century ago, and is still pre¬ served ; on it, the upper half of a figure, holding a heart, is represented in relief, within a quatrefoil, with this inscription: #?tc: jactt: ftfatiltia le: (ffaus: orate: Ultima ejd pat’ Jlos.’ This is figured in Glover s “ History of Derbyshire,” accompanied with an inaccurate account of her family. In the office of chief forester, she was succeeded by her son and heir, John de Birkin, and he again by his son and heir, Thomas de Birkin, who respectively did homage for their land and for this hereditary office in the 8th and 1 ith years of Henry III. 0 In the 15th of the same reign the office devolved upon Robert de Everingham in right of his wife Isabel, sister of the above-named Thomas de Birkin. d With Everingham it remained till the time of Edward I, a Thorotoris “ History of Nottinghamshire,” p. 505. b From “ a Foreste Booke conteyninge the Lawes, Statutes, and Ordinances of the Foreste of Sherwood, in the Countie of Nott.” A MS. in possession of the Earl Manvers. c See Fine Rolls of those years. d Ibid. $hei|woor] oijest. 189 when it was seized by the crown as forfeited, and since that time the guardianship of the Forest has been conferred upon various persons of high station, as a special mark of the royal favour. 0 Our early Norman and Plantagenet Kings were men of iron hand and determined will, for the most part acknowledging, in practice at least, whatever they might in theory, scarcely any law except their own behests, and having little regard to the wants and wishes of their subjects, whom they looked upon as not much better than slaves. Hence every oppor¬ tunity was seized by them of stretching their pre¬ rogative and power at the expense of the peoples’ rights and property. A flagrant instance of this is found in the Conqueror’s proceedings respecting the “ New Forest,” in the formation of which he is said by Odericus Vitalis, “ to have laid waste more than sixty parishes, compelling the inhabitants to emigrate to other places, and substituting beasts of the chase for human beings, that he might satisfy his ardour for hunting.” b And although this high¬ handed policy might sometimes be mitigated either by a sense of justice, or by the discretion of some of these sovereigns, or the weakness and fear of others, yet the people had no security for their rights and liberties, till they rose and extorted from one of the most violent and unjust, yet at the same time most pusillanimous of his race, a solemn record setting forth and establishing his peoples’ claims ; we allude, of course, to the great charter of our liberties a Thoroton's “ History of Nottinghamshire,” p. 505. b It is perhaps rather unjust to attribute the whole oppression of the Forest laws to the Normans, as if they were something newly introduced by them, since it seems evident from the Constitutions of the Forest by Canute, that they were sufficiently stringent even in those days. It appears also that many of the regulations for the conservation of the royal forest, the appointment of foresters, the holding of Swain¬ motes, the penalties for the violation of the laws, the mutilation of dogs, &c., had their origin in these earlier times, though, no doubt, they were much stretched under the early Norman rule. See Kemble's “ Saxons in England,” vol. ii. p. 80. &c. Ancient JUistotpj of j 90 which John was compelled to sign and seal at Run- nymede. This document contains some provisions in mitigation of the cruel forest laws, but that part of its contents, in the beginning of the reign of Henry ill. when the Magna Charta was ratified and expanded, was thrown into a separate charter, making the “ Charta de Foresta” or charter of the Forest. This was done during Henry’s boyhood, chiefly through the instrumentality of the Earl of Pembroke, but when the king came of age, he is said to have can¬ celled both these charters. Notwithstanding this, we find that in the 38th year of his reign, A.D. 1254, a solemn assembly was held in the great hall at West¬ minster, in the presence of the king, when the Arch¬ bishop of Canterbury and the other bishops apparelled in their pontificals, with tapers burning, denounced a sentence of excommunication against the breakers of the liberties of the church and the realm, and par¬ ticularly those contained in the great charter, and the charter of the forest. a Some of the provisions of this latter important charter it may not be uninteresting to give, as they set before us vividly the state of society at that time respecting the forest laws, and the crushing oppres¬ sion those must have experienced, who were subjected to their operation; and this we cannot do better than in the words of Mr, Reeves excellent summary of this important document contained in his “History of the English Law.” “ The first chapter of this charter directed that all forests which had been afforested by Henry II. should be viewed by good and law¬ ful men ; and if it was proved that he had any woods except the demesne, turned into forest to the prejudice of the owner’s wood, it was to be forthwith disafforested; but the royal woods that had been made forests by that king were still to remain, with a saving of the common of herbage, and other things which any one was accustomed to have. This was the provision in relation to the forests made by a Reeves’ “ English Law,” p. 258, vol. i, 3rd Edition. $het|u)ood Jj'otjest. 191 Henry II. As to those made by the kings, Richard and John, they, unless they were in the king’s own demesnes, were to be forthwith disafforested. The charter directed that all archbishops, bishops, abbots, priors, earls, barons, knights, and free-tenants having woods in forests, should have them as they enjoyed them at the first coro¬ nation of Henry II. and should be quit of all purpfrestures, wastes, and assarts, made therein before the second year of Henry III. Thus far, limits were fixed to the extent of forests ; and after these provisions, a clause is added by which all offences therein were pardoned. “ In point of regulation it was ordained that regarders or rangers should go through the forest to make their regard or range, as was the usage before the first coronation of Henry II. The inquisition or view for the lawing or expectation of dogs was to be had when the range was made, i.e. from three years to three years ; and then it was to be done by the view and testimony of lawful men, and not otherwise. A person whose dog was found not lawed was to pay three shillings. No ox was to be taken for lawing, as had been before cus¬ tomary, but the old law on this point of expeditation was to be observed, namely, that three claws of the fore foot should be cut off by the skin ; and after all, this expeditation was to be performed only in such places where it had been customary, before the first coronation of Henry II. It was ordained that no forester or bedel should make scotal, or gather gerbe, oats, or any corn whatever, nor any lambs or pigs, nor make any gathering at all, but upon view and oath of 12 rangers, when they were making their range. Such a number of foresters was to be assigned as should be thought necessary for keeping the forest. It was permitted to every freeman to agist his own wood, and to take his pannage within the king’s forest, and for that purpose he might freely drive his swine through the king’s demesne woods, and if they should lie one night in the forest, it should be no pretence for exacting, on that account, any thing from the owner. Besides the above use of their own woods, freemen were permitted to make in their woods, land, or water within the forest, mills, springs, pools, marlpits, dikes, or arable grounds, so as they did not enclose such arable ground, nor cause a nuisance to any of their neighbours ; they might also have ayries of hawks, sparrow hawks, falcons, eagles and herons ; as likewise the honey found in their own woods. “ Thus ” adds our author, “ was a de¬ gree of relaxation given to the rigorous ordinances of William the Conqueror, who had appropriated the lands of others to the purpose of making them forest; the owners thereof were now admitted into a sort of partial enjoyment of their own property. “ It was permitted that any archbishop, bishop, earl, or baron, coming to the king at his command, and passing through the forests might take and kill one or two of the king’s deer, by view of the forester if he were present; if not, then he might do it upon the blow¬ ing of a horn, that it might not look like a theft. The same might be done when they returned. No forester, except such as was a 192 Ancient Jjtistotpj of forester in fee, paying a ferm of his bailiwick, was to take any chiminage as it was called, i.e. toll for passing through the forest; but a forester in fee, as aforesaid, might take one penny every half- year for a cart, and a half-penny for a horse bearing a burden, and that only of such as came through by licence to buy bushes, timber, bark and coal to sell again. Those who carried brush, bark and coal upon their backs were to pay no chiminage, though it was for sale, except they took it within the king’s demesnes. “ Part of this charter consisted of matters relating to the judica¬ ture of the forest. It was ordained that persons dwelling out of the forest should not be obliged to appear before the justices of the forest upon the common or general summons, but only when they were impleaded there, or were pledges for others who were attached for the forest. Swainmotes (which were the courts next below those of the justices of the forest) were to be held only three times in the year, i.e. the first at 15 days before Michaelmas, when the agistors came together to take agistment in the demesne woods ; the second was to be about the feast of St. Martin, when the agistors were to receive pannage ; and to these two swainmotes were to come the foresters, verderors, and agistors, and no others. The third swain¬ mote was to be held 15 days hefore St. John Baptist, and this “pro fanatione bestiarum ” ; to this were to come the verderors and for¬ esters and no other ; and the attendance of such persons might be compelled by distress. It was moreover directed that every 40 days thoughout the year, the foresters and verderors should meet to see the attachments of the forest, “ tarn de veridi, quam de venatione,” as well for vert as venison, by the presentment of the same foresters. “ Swainmotes were to be kept in those counties only where they had used to be held. Further, no constable, castellan, or other was to hold plea of the forest, whether of vert or venison (which was a prohibition similar to and founded on a like policy with one in Magna Charta about theft) ; but every forester in fee was to attach pleas of the forest, as well for vert as venison, and present them to the ver¬ derors of provinces; and after they had been enrolled and sealed with the seal of the verderors they were to be presented to the chief for¬ ester, or as he was afterwards called, the chief justice of the forest, when he came into those parts to hold the pleas of the forest, and were to be determined before him. “ The punishments for breach of the forest laws were greatly mitigated. It was ordained that no man should henceforth lose either life or limb for hunting deer; but if a man was convicted of taking venison he was to make a grievous fine; and if he had nothing to pay he was to be imprisoned a year and a day, and then discharged upon pledges; which if he could not find,he was to abjure the realm. Such were the tender mercies of the forest laws! Besides such qualifications of this rigorous system, it was ordained that those who between the time of Henry II. and this king’s coronation had been outlawed for the forest only, should be in the king’s peace, without any hindrance or danger, so as they found good pledges that they would not again trespass within the forest. $hei[woocl oi]esf. *93 “ These were the regulations made by the Charter of the Forest, which concludes with a saving clause in favour of the liberties and free customs claimed by any one, as well within the forest as with¬ out, in warrens and other places, which were enjoyed before^ that time. To the whole is subjoined a like confirmation as that to Magna Charta in the 25 Edward I.” a Agreeably to the provisions of this charter of the Forest, a survey of Sherwood was made in the 16th year of Henry III. by royal commission, by Hugh Nevil, justice of the forest and Brian of the Isle, and others, and the parts which had been brought under the forest laws by the previous kings, since the be¬ ginning of the reign of Henry II. were disafforested, or set free from those stringent enactments ; and the bounds and limits of the forest still preserved as such, were clearly defined. These are stated to be thus fixed “to be firm, and stable, and abide for ever,” starting from a place called Conyngswath,t> i.e. the King’s Ford; (a designation which savours of the old Danish or Norse sovereigns. We learn from a later document that Conyngswath was beside the old Park of Haughton.) The line was drawn “ by the highway that goeth to¬ wards Welhaugh unto the town of Welhawe towards Nottingham, so that the close of the town of Wel¬ hawe is out of the forest, from thence by the side way that goeth betwixt Welhaugh and Nottingham unto Blackstone Haugh, and from thence unto that place where Doverbeck river goeth over the side way, and so following the Doverbeck to where it enters the Trent. Again starting westward from Conyngswath by the river Maiden the boundary follows the river to Warsop, and from thence by the same stream to Plesley Haye, and from thence to Otterbridge, and from thence turning by the great highway which leads to Nottingham unto Milford Bridge, from thence a “ History of the English Law,” vol. i, p. 254—6, 1814. •' This place has disappeared from the modern maps, but is marked in an ancient survey, preserved in the estate office at Thoresby. 194 Ancient Bistort) of unto Maidenhead, and from thence betwixt the field of Hardwick and Kirkby to a corner called Nuncar, and from thence by the assart of Iwan Britan unto the Earl’s Steigh, and from thence unto Stolgate, and from thence by the great highway under the old castle of Annesley, and from the same castle unto the town of Lindby, passing through the midst of the town to the mill of the same place, situated on the river Leen, and so following that stream to Lenton, and so to the Trent, where the Leen entered by its old course, and so along the river Trent to the fall of Doverbeck ; saving Welhaw Hagh and other the king’s demesne woods in the county of Nottingham.” * Another survey of the Forest of Sherwood was made in 29th (a.d. 1300) the reign of Edward I. when the bounds already named were confirmed by that sovereign in return, as was usually the case in such grants of privileges to their subjects, for the fifteenth part of their moveable good granted to the king. b In the “Forest Book” where this survey is recorded, is found appended the following important note, which should be well observed, inasmuch as it became, in later times, a subject of much complaint and contro¬ versy in respect of the injury done by the deer to the crops, in parts without the above-named bounds. The note runs thus: “ And yt is to understand that the foresaid walks, by the afore-named walkers, that there are put out of the forest, the wood of Room- wood, the towne of Carburton, with the field of the same; Owthesland, the towneshipps of Clumber, Scofton, Reniton (Rayton), half of the townshippe of Budby, w ,h the north fields of the same; the towne- shippe of Thoressbie, and all the towne of Skegbie, a Thoresby MS. “ Item, eodem anno (a.d. 1300) dominus rex plenum parliamentum sunmtenuit apud Lincolniam, ubi quintadecima omnium bononim regni sui sibi est concessa pro confirmatione cartarum libertatum Angliae.” “ Public Manuals of English History,” by T Wright, pp. 117. 118. $hei|wootl Ifotjest. l 9S w 111 the fields of the same except a little pcell of the field of the same towards the east. All the towne of Sutton-upon-Ashfield, with the fields of the same; and the hamblets adjoining the townshippe of Bulwell, with the wood adjoining, that is called Bulwell-rise ; and the king’s hay of Wellay. Item, the wood of the Archbishop of York, that is called Little Hagh, that be of the king’s demesnes. And yt is to understand that that part of the wood that is called Little Hagh, was disaforested by John of Lithgrows, and after¬ wards all the towneshipps aforesaid, w th hedges and woods adjoining, were put again into the forest by the foresaid King Edward, son of King Henry ill.” This, at first sight, appears an arbitrary proceeding of the king, but we must remember that these places which he again put into the forest were parts of the old demesnes of the crown, even in the time of Edward the Confessor, as appears from the Domes¬ day survey; and as such, according to the Charter of the Forest, were not to be affected by any disa- foresting. The worthy freeholders of the county, who, in their petition, in 1708 pray to be relieved “from the intolerable burden of the queen’s deer” which destroyed their crops, while referring to the limits fixed by the perambulation of the commis¬ sioners of Edward 1. do not take any notice of these exceptional places without those limits, with which it seems their petition had mainly to do; but if they had done so it is to be feared they would have de¬ rived but little comfort, from the reply which they received, viz. that they had “ bought the land with the incumbrance , and it was past all dispute that the Queen has as much right to it as any man has to his own coat'.' * Such were the bounds of this Forest; and from an inquisition taken during the time of Robert Evering- ft Annals of Nottinghamshire, p. 1090. 196 Ancient history of ham’s Forestorship, in the 35th Henry III., before Geofifry Langley, chief justice in Eyre of the king’s forests north of Trent, respecting the ministers of the forest, we learn “ that there were within the forest three keepings, viz. the first between Leen and Dover- beck; the second being the High Forest; and the third Rumwood; and that Robert Everingham, as chief keeper, ought to have a chief servant sworn, going through all the forest at his own costs, to attach tres¬ passers and present them at the attachments before the verderors. In the first keeping he must have one forester riding with a page and two foresters on foot, and there were to be also two verderors and two agis¬ ters. In this keeping were three hays or parks, viz. Beskwood Hay, Lindeby Hay, and Welley Hay. In the second keeping, or the High Forest, Robert ought to have two foresters riding with their two pages, and two foresters on foot without pages ; and there were to be also two verderors and two agisters. In this keeping were two hays,.viz. Birkland and Billahaugh, and also the park of Clipston. And in these hays and parks two verderors and two agisters. In the third keeping, Rumewood,® Robert ought to have one forester on foot, and there were to be two woodwards, one for Carburton and another for Budby; also two verderors and two agisters. He ought also to have a page bearing his bow through the forest, to gather chiminage. The same document informs us that the hays of Lindby, Birkland, and Billahaugh, and the park of Clipston, were often under the immediate keeping of the King’s Justices in Eyre beyond Trent, a It appears from Plea taken at Nottingham, before William de Herle and his follows, Justices Itenerants, a.d. 3 Edward ill. that King Edward 1. granted to the Abbot and Convent of Welbeck, sixty acres of Rumewood,according to the measure of the forest, described as lying between the wood of the said Abbot and the park of Thomas de Furnival, and extending on the west side of the king’s highway be¬ tween Worksop and Warsop ; together with the place called Carburton Storth, lying near the aforesaid wood, for the rent of twenty-eight shillings per year for ever, with power to impark the same, or cut down and dispose of the timber, &c. $heilwood Jfoijest. 197 and that they ought to have one forester riding alone through all the forest. Also that the abbot and monks of Rufiford, from the time of King Henry II. who granted them the privilege, had liberty to take vert in their wood, within the reward of Sherwood ; and “ whatsoever was to them needful to their owne use, and to all their house boote and hay boote, as well to all their granges in the forest and without; and they might have a forester of their own to keep their said woodwho, however, was to do fealty be¬ fore the justices of the king, and to report at the attachments to the foresters and verderors of the crown, what trees were taken by the said monks. Such was the provision made in these early times for the preservation of the royal vert and venison, within the forest of Sherwood, and for the maintenance of the king’s prerogative under the forest laws. And it appears that a similar staff of officers was main¬ tained, though with some modifications, so long as the district retained a semblance of its forest character. In the end of the last century, Major Rooke gives a list of the offices then existing, the persons by whom they were held, together with the salaries, fees, and perquisites they received, and the funds from which they arose. From this document we learn that there was, at that time, a Lord Warden (The Duke of Portland), appointed by letters’ patent during plea¬ sure ; a Bow-bearer and Ranger, vacant by the death of Lord Byron, appointed by the Lord Warden dur¬ ing pleasure ; four Verderors, viz. Sir F. Molineux, Bart., John Litchfield, Esq., E. T. Gould, Esq., and W. Sherbrook, Esq., who were elected by the free¬ holders for life. The verderors and clerk of the forest had each a fee tree annually out of the king’s hays of Birkland and Bilhagh, and a fee of two guineas to each verderor attending upon inclosing brecks in the forest. 198 Ancient JjBstoipj of In King William’s reign the verderors were found to “take the best trees the forest affords,” and in lieu thereof His Majesty was pleased by privy seal to order them £5 each yearly to be paid by the surveyor- general of woods out of the “ first-fruits and tenths,” but in 1716 that fund being otherwise applied, this officer memorialized the Lords Commissioners of His Majesty’s Treasury that it would be “better to pay them out of the Sheriff’s fines, arising in the County of Nottingham.”® There was also a steward appointed by the Lord Chief Justice in Eyre, during pleasure, who had also a fee tree annually out of the same hays ; a clerk of the Swainmote and attachment courts, and a beadle. There were, moreover, nine keepers appointed by the verderors, during pleasure, who superintended the nine walks into which the forest was then divided, and which are thus named : 1. Newstead and Papplewick. 2. Langton Arbour, Blidworth, and Highwells. 3. Kirkby, Sutton, and Annesley Hills. 4. Mansfield and Lyndhurst. 5. Mansfield Woodhouse and Noman’s Woods. 6. Birkland, Bilhagh, and Clipston Skroggs. 7. Roomwood and Osland. 8. Blidworth and Farnsfield. 9. Calverton and Arnold Hill. These keepers were appointed by the verderers, and had each an annual salary of twenty shillings, paid by the Duke of Newcastle out of the fee farm rent for Nottingham castle. Besides these there were an¬ nually sworn two woodwards for Sutton and Carlton. In addition to the above nine walks, an older list b gives Fulwood (which perhaps may be included under Kirkby), Hemsley Rail, and Rufford Walk, and a Thoresby MS. b Ibid. ifh eipuood Jf o r| c st. 199 Clumber and Hardwick in the New park. Also the division of the forest called Thorneywoods, of which there were South and North Bayles; of this latter district, Major Rooke names the Earl of Chesterfield as the hereditary ranger, under a grant, in fee, made to John Stanhope, Esq., his ancestor, in 42d of Queen Elizabeth. The woods and timber belonging to the crown, Major Rooke tells us, were in his time under the care of the surveyor general of woods, who acted by de¬ puty ; the latter official having a fee tree annually, and a salary of twenty pounds a year paid out of the wood sales. While speaking of the officers appointed for the conservancy of the forest, we should not omit one who is not named in the “ Forest Books.” It seems that the district, in early times, was much infested with wolves, which, no doubt, would make great rav¬ ages among the deer. And in order to drive these destructive creatures away, an officer was appointed and endowed with lands. For we find that as late as the nth year of Henry vi. Sir Robert Plumpton held one bovate of land in Mansfield Woodhouse, called “ Wolf-hunt land ,” by service of winding a horn, and chasing or frightening the wolves in the forest of Sherwood. Under the guardianship of its various officers, this forest long preserved its eminence as a noble field for hunting, and abounded, beyond most other parts of the country, with remarkably fine timber, which effectually assisted in building up “ the wooden walls of Old England.” Of these, some specimens, though in a decayed state, are still preserved to us, which may serve to give us some idea of the grandeur of sylvan scenery in the days of yore. And in this im¬ mediate neighbourhood of Birkland we may observe some very striking examples, as for instance, one 200 Ancient Jjtistoipj of called the “ Queen or Major Oak,” measuring at four feet from the ground, 29 feet in girth; while another named “ Simon the Forester,” is about 22 feet in girth. It is mentioned in an interesting and now scarce pamphlet, 8 by Major Rooke, an eminent antiquarian and most careful observer of the things of the forest in which he long dwelt, that “in cutting down some trees in the hays of Birkland and Bilhagh, in Sherwood Forest, letters have been found cut and stamped in the body of the trees, marking the King’s reign.” Of these he gives four plates which we have here re¬ produced, he says, “ No. 1 has hollow or indented letters I and R, for James Rex. No. 2 has the same letters in relief, which filled up the interstices of the letters in No. 1, before the piece was split. It is re¬ markable ” he adds, “ that where the bark has been stript off for cutting letters, the wood which grows over the wound never adheres to that part, but sepa¬ rates of itself when the wood is cut in that direction. a “A Sketch of the Ancient and Present State of Sherwood Forest, in the County of Nottingham/' 1799. $hetiwood Jfo^est. 20 1 The piece No. 3, has the letters W. M. with a crown, for King William and Queen Mary. No. 4, has the letter I, with an imperfect impression of a blunt ra¬ diated crown, resembling those represented in old prints on the head of King John ; another piece cut out of an oak some years ago had the same kind of crown with I. O. and R. for John Rex. The piece of oak, No. 1, with the letters I and R, was about one foot within the tree, and one foot from the centre; it was cut down in the year 1786. That with W. M. and a crown was about nine inches within the tree, and three inches from the centre; cut down in 1786. The piece marked I, for John, was eighteen inches within the tree, and above a foot from the centre ; cut down in 1791.” No. 3. No. 4. William Kitchen, of Wellow, woodman to the Earl Manvers, in converting an oak felled in the forest near Ollerton Corner, into park-fence posts, in the year 1834, found at the depth of 15 inches from the surface, the initials C.R. impressed upon the wood. The piece was preserved and given to William Clut- ton, Esq., of Pengc, who was at that time and for H 202 Ancient JiJi$toj;y of many years a resident in Sherwood Forest, and who now affirms that while there he frequently saw such marks on old trees. 8 Camden , b who wrote in the time of James I., speaks of Sherwood “as formerly a close shade, with the boughs of the trees so entangled in one another that a single person could hardly walk in the paths of it. At present,” he adds, “ it is much thinner, yet it still feeds an infinite number of deer and branchy-headed stags.” 0 We cannot wonder then that it should have been a favourite hunting-ground of our earlier monarchs, who often resorted to it for the pleasures of the chase, and for that purpose erected a residence or palace in its midst, at Clipston, d the present remains of which we give as a tail-piece to this chapter. We have frequent evidences of their having sojourned, and even held their parliaments here. One example of this occur¬ red in the year 1290, when Edward I. summoned a parliament to meet here on the 29th October; which, however, did not come together till the beginning of November of that year. An ancient oak, formerly in the park, now on the side of the road leading from Edwinstowe to Mansfield, has long been pointed out as the place where these parliaments assembled, hence called the “ Parliament Oak.” The trunk of this noted tree, which is of the species, Quercus Scsijlora, of always short growth, was once a Those who are interested in the enquiry as to “The permanence of marks or brands on trees,” may refer to “Notes and Queries,” Nos. 234, 236, 240, and 243, for 1872. b “ Britannia,” p. 483, Gibson's Edition. c It appears, from a survey taken by royal command, that in the year 1616 there were in the forest of Sherwood 1263 red deer, and in another taken 12 June, 1635, red deer to the number of 1367, of which 987 are stated to be “ Rascalds,” i. e. out of condition. <1 It appears that the Park of Clipston was enclosed, at least, as early as the time of King John, for we learn from the Oblate Rolls of that sovereign, Ao 1 John a.d. 1200, that the men of Mansfield gave the king 20 marks for having common pasture in the Park of Clipston, as they had it before it was enclosed. $heijwood ifoijest. 203 25 feet in circumference ; what remains of it is only a shell in three or four parts, one of which is nearly round, and the growing bark has quite surrounded it, thus forming in itself a good round tree of about two feet diameter, and bidding fair to attain a good old age, and in all human probability it will be a fine stately tree when its neighbours, the Major and Greendale Oaks, will be gone for ever. This singular transition, having taken place in our day, from the old tree to the younger will be very different to that of the Charles’ Oak on Bosquabell Forest, which has grown from an acorn of the original tree, and been planted on the site of the old one; but the Parlia- Tbe Parliament Oak 204 Ancient Jftistoiq) of ment Oak, in ages to come, will be the real one, a portion of the same roots, wood, bark, and branches, as were growing on the spot when parliaments were held under it, in the 13th century.* Even within the space of little more than a century from this date, very considerable portions of the ancient forest still remained; for we are told b y Major Rooke, that Mr. Wylde, of Nettleworth, who died in 1780, at the age of 82, said “that he well remembered one continued wood from Mansfield to Nottingham.” While the deer, because both of their numbers and depredations, formed a subject of serious complaint and remonstrance from the freeholders of the adjoin¬ ing districts, during the last century. The forest had, no doubt, long before that period been gradually denuded of much of its sylvan cloth¬ ing; and had suffered, not only from a constant felling of its timber, for naval and other purposes, but also from wars, tempests, and even from fires. An illustration of the latter calamity is afforded in an account of a conflagration which took place within its precincts in the year 1624, and which was related by an eye-witness. This is contained in a MS. pre¬ served in the British Museum, b which is so quaint and singular that we may quote a portion of it. It seems that the writer, whoever he might be,— perhaps a Puritan divine,—was visiting his friends at Newark when the occurrence took place, and rode over from thence with his brother, to observe the de¬ vastation which he describes, apparently, in a some¬ what exaggerated strain; though, no doubt, the mischief was of considerable extent. This curious document takes the form of an address, one might almost say of a sermon, it being much in¬ terspersed with scripture quotations, and full of most a For the substance of thi9 paragraph we are indebted to the late Mr. Bohler. b Reg. 17, a. xviii, f. 24. $hei]wood Jfonest. 205 fulsome flattery, directed immediately to the “British Solomon,” James 1. of whose wonderful prescience it professes to be an example. It seems that the king being in the city of London on Trinity Sunday, 23 May, 1624, thus reproved the Lord Mayor, Sir Martin Lumley, for the filthy state of the streets. “ My Lorde, I am complayned unto, by some, that the cittie streetes lyeth very noysum and foulle: especially Chepeside, in somuch that strangeres takes notis of it; therefore I command and charge you to looke unto it: that it may be keep sweete and clene: for it will be a cause to breede infecciones for it is to be expected that we shall have a hot summer: for my lorde I did never knowe nor I thinke the oulldest of any of you so hot a latter end of an Aprill and a be¬ ginning of a May : but I will not proknostiket. But it is to be douted ther will followe a hot insuinge som- merto which our author adds, “ and nowe since which time, let all men speeke experymentally whether or no thos sainges be come to pas.” The consequence of this drought was not only a very unhealthy season, but also a great conflagration in the forest of Sherwood, which it seems was accidentally set on fire by some ill-slaked charcoal that was being carted away, falling among the ling; for “upon Mun- day the 23 of August beinge Bartholume eve,” con¬ tinues our author, “aboute nounctide as it shoulde seeme the brackin and lin and trees together were of a flame that it caused such an extreordenary smoke and the winde bringinge of it to vs warde: (i.e. to Newark, seven or eight miles distant,) “ that it made such a greet mist in the aire that it did darken the sonne withall: that many peepell did come out of ther houses in greete wonderinge at such a sudden and feerefull fire: and most did coniceture it to be the sonne in the cliptes and others said noe it smellt like fire : the which proufed the most trueste : for pre- 2o6 Ancient JfUstoipj of sently vpon came tlier commande from the Justeses to rayse the cuntery ther aboute: And to bringe pickaxes spades and shouelles to make dikes and trenches to breeke the fire in the forreste: And such a fire as was never knowne in manes memory: beinge 4 mille longe and a mille and a hallfe ouer all at once : And had it not plesed the Lorde to turne the winde at an instant when it was sesinge vpon a greet and longe wood that was betwene Mancefellde and Nottinggame : which if it had taken houllde but the Lorde prevented it: which to my knowelege which afterwards I did see : did run up vnder the hy trees above a stones cast which if it had got vp into the bowes and branches of the greet trees it was thought it woullde have burnte vp all the cuntry before it as far as Nottingegame The poor deer, it seems, escaped the flames and were seen collected together for mutual protection, for the writer tells us, that “ridinge on his way throught the forrest homeward’ he saw of the other side of the sellfe sam hill a greete herde of faire red deere, and amonst them 2 extreordanary greet stages, the which he never saw the like.” But calamities of this kind, and the desolations of war, were not the only agents which denuded the forest of Sherwood of its sylvan honours. Large quantities of timber were from time to time felled and carried away, partly for the use of the royal navy, but still more largely, perhaps, for the benefit of persons who obtained grants to that effect. An example of this remains in the form of a petition from the in¬ habitants of Edwinstowe, A. D. 1670 — 80, a for permis¬ sion to appropriate 200 oaks, of the value of £200, out of the hays of Birkland and Bilhagh, for the repair of their parish church, then in a ruinous condi¬ tion, occasioned principally by the fall of its steeple * Thoresby MS. $hetjuiood lowest. 207 The petition was entertained, and on a survey being made for that purpose, it was found that “ although there were yet standing many thousand trees, few of which there were but what were decaying, and very few useful for the navy.” 4 Major Rooke gives the result of several surveys, which show the rapid diminution in the quantity of timber in this neighbourhood. In 1609, on a survey, there were found in Birkland and Bilhagh 49,909 trees, and the trees in general even then passed their maturity; while in 1686 there were in the same dis¬ trict 37,316, including hollow trees, so that in 77 years (1609—86) 2,593 trees had disappeared. From a survey again made in 1790, it appears that there were then in Birkland and Bilhagh together only 10,117 trees, which at that time were valued at £17,147 15s. 4d., so that in 104 years (from 1686— 1790) 27,199 trees had gone. Tlioroton says that the forest in his time (1677) had “wonderfully declined,” and that there was then and had long been a justice seat, not yet finished, held under the Duke of Newcastle, Justice in Eyre of all the king’s forests north of Trent, when his Depu¬ ties or Lieutenants allowed such and so many claims, “ that there will not, very shortly, be wood enough left to cover the bilberries, which every summer were wont to be an extraordinary great profit and pleasure to poor people, who gathered them and carried them all about the country to sell.” In other parts of the forest the same process of denudation had also been going on for ages, while no care was taken to replace the lost timber by planting. a It would seem that the oaks of Sherwood were looked upon as a sort of refuge for the destitute: for we are informed “that Mr. Hercules Foljambe, formerly of More Hall, near Chesterfield, which he sold in 1600, who appears to have fallen into reduced circumstances in his latter days, petitioned the Crown for a grant of a hundred oaks out of Sherwood, pleading his poverty.” Hunters “South York¬ shire,” p. 6o, vol. ii. 208 Ancient J^istoqy of This operation was reserved for a later age, when the forest had become private property, since which large tracts have again been clothed with wood by the chief proprietors of the soil, and by none to a greater ex¬ tent than by the late Duke of Portland. 11 No doubt, even from early times, the system of as¬ sarting, as it was called, or reducing to cultivation, portions of the Forest, and w T hich could only be done under licence from the crown, had been going on. We frequently meet in ancient documents of the “assart of such a one,” but in later days a much more extensive practice of disafforesting, under grants or sales, had become common. Thus we find that in the year 1683, in this imme¬ diate neighbourhood, 1,270 acres b out of the hays of Bilhagh and the White Lodge, after being duly valued by the officers of the crown, were sold to the Duke of a We cannot but express a fear, that these modem representatives of the oaks of Sherwood, will never attain to anything like the noble proportions of their pre¬ decessors, as it seems that the method pursued in their culture has been faulty, We allude to the young trees having been permitted to grow so near together, as to draw each other up to a great height, without having any corresponding lateral branches, so that the boles of the trees, except those on the outside of the woods, have hardly increased in the memory of man. This will, we think, be made plain by inspecting some of-the following woods, and bearing in mind the times at which they were planted or sown. We take our examples from the neighbourhood of Worksop, memoranda of the planting of woods, in that district, having fallen under our notice. From these we learn that the Manton Plantation was begun in the year 1752, and finished about 1764. Kilton Plantation was sown with acorns in the year 1763. Tranker wood, towards Shireoaks, was planted about 1727. Sparking Hill Plantation, lying on the left hand side of the Low Town road, up the hill, was sown with acorns and chestnuts in the j’ear 1762. b It is presumed that statute acres are here meant, but we must bear in mind that there was a standard of measurement for the Forest, much exceeding this standard. It is thus set forth in the Forest Books:— “ In the Forest after \ 3 barleycorns - 1 inch, the assise of the [> 18 inches 1 foot. Forest. ) 30 feet 1 perch. 40 x 4 perches - 1 acre. And 1 rood containeth 1 perch xxv feet in breadth, and 40 such perches in length, and 4 such roods make an acre of the assise of the Forest.” Standards of the Forest measure are stated to have been formerly marked on the Church walls of St. Mary's, Nottingham, and Edwinstowe Church. The former has been long lost . but it was believed that some indications of the latter remained near the chancel door. There are, indeed, some indentations observable, but these seem to be merely portions of the string-course of an earlier Norman church built into the restored wall. $henu;ood Ifotiest. 209 Kingston, in order that he might enclose the same into a park at Thoresby; and this, with adjoining property which he already possessed at Perlthorpe and Thoresby, formed the present extensive park of Thoresby, and was the occasion of a mansion'being erected on a more extended scale than had before existed. This Thoresby House, which is spoken of in a letter addressed from C. Townley, Esq., to Ralph Thoresby, A.D. 1703, as “my Lord Kingston’s great new house,was totally destroyed by fire in 1745. It seems, however, that there was an earlier house, for Thoroton, writing in 1677, speaks of Thoresby as the residence of the Hon. W. Pierrepont, Earl of King¬ ston’s second son. At the beginning, also, of the last century a con¬ siderable portion of the forest, to the extent of about 3,000 acres, was enclosed to form a park, for the pre¬ servation of the deer. This was done under the auspices of the then Duke of Newcastle, warden of the forest, who was himself a keen sportsman, and lost his life while following the chase. This portion of the forest was called the “ New Park , in which,” says a document of that date, “ are Clumber and Hardwick.” In fact it is represented by the present Clumber Park; and the keeper or forester’s lodge there, formed the nucleus of the ducal mansion at that place. At the general alienation and disafforestation of the district, this became the property of the an¬ cestor of the present possessor. The part of the forest which still remained to the crown, were the hays of Birkland and Bilhagh. These, however, were granted, about 70 years ago, to his grace the late Duke of Portland, in exchange for the perpetual advowson of St. Mary-le-Bone, London. Birkland was afterwards conveyed by the Duke to the Correspondence of Ralph Thoresby, vol. iv, p. 33. 210 Ancient $i$toijy of late Earl Manvers, in exchange for the manors of Holbeck and Bonbusk, which are near to the Duke’s domain at Welbeck. Several Inclosure Acts were passed between the years 1789 and 1796, for Arnold Forest, Basford, Sut- ton-in-Ashfield, Kirkby-in-Ashfield, Lenton, and Rad¬ ford, and thus about 8,248 acres were brought into cultivation. By these means it has come to pass, that in this district, with the exception of Birkland and Bilhagh, and a few ancient trees scattered here and there, and besides what are included in the parks of the nobility and gentry, scarcely a vestige of the Ancient Forest of Sherwood now remains except in name. And, however much, the lover of sylvan scenery, or those who could enter into the spirit of the poet, who says “ How sweet in the Woodlands With fleet hound and horn, To awaken shrill echo, And taste the fresh morn,” may lament the loss of the vert and venison, from so large a portion of this once pre-eminently woodland region ; yet the change cannot but commend itself to the mind of every practical lover of his country ; in¬ asmuch as large tracts, which in truth had become of little value for the profit either of the crown or of the subject, have thus been devoted, by being brought into cultivation, to the sustenance and comfort of our greatly increased population. It is indeed evident that at the beginning of the last century, the maintenance of such parts of the forest, as then remained, had become an intolerable burden and injury to the neighbouring landholders, from the great damage and consumption caused by the deer, which in consequence of being better fed, by preying upon the corn and other crops around, had increased to an unreasonable number. Petitions JjShei'jWood 5 j'oi|e$t. 21 I and addresses, as we have already intimated, were agreed to and signed by a large body of the sufferers, and were forwarded to the crown and the House of Commons. And, although, these representations, for a while, met with little encouragement, yet eventually justice and reason prevailed, and led to the general sys¬ tem of disafforesting and enclosure already alluded to. It is evident indeed, that the Forest of Sherwood had long ceased to be a source of profit to the crown; for wherever a fall of timber took place the expenses attending the operation, together with the numerous fees and perquisites of the various officers, swallowed up the value of the wood, and not un- frequently left the owner on the debtor side of the balance sheet. A large annual expenditure, more¬ over, was incurred for the preservation of the deer, and for maintaining a considerable hunting establish¬ ment. A thousand pounds per annum was in the reign of Queen Anne granted for those purposes; out of which £200 was applied to the expenses of keepers’ wages and other necessaries, for the use of the New Park at Clumber. The rest was expended on the forest in general, where 40 couple of hounds were kept, with two huntsmen and a considerable staff of grooms, keepers, and horses; it furnished also a supply of hay for the deer in winter. The following statement may, perhaps, be interest¬ ing to the friends of the chase. “ Account of the expenses and allowances intended for the sup¬ port of Sherwood Fforrest, when Lord Oxford was Treasurer. 0 Allowed from the Crown for the maintenance of the Forest of Sherwood and the New Park, per annum Allowed for keepers’ wages, hay, and other neces¬ saries for the use of the New Park, per annum Carried over . . 800 00 00 ft Thorcsby MS. IOOO OO 00 200 00 00 2 12 Ancient of Remains for the use of ye Forrest of Sherwood Keeping 40 couple of hounds at £■$ 3s. per week, \ viz. 4 loads of meale at 12s. per load, and 5 ' horses at 3s. per horse, amounts per annum j to . . . . I To Mr. Charles Palmer, as huntsman, deputy ran-) ger, and forest keeper, per annum . . / To Charles Palmer, junr., as second huntsman To Cornelius Short, as foot huntsman and feeder His board wages, at 4s. per week Four forrest keepers, at £25 each Four deputy purlieu rangers, at £10 each . Two hunting grooms to ride in with the hounds for) themselves and horses, being four at ye least) For six hunters, for the deputy warden or other) officers in chief, with two grooms . . J Seventy load of hay, for the forrest dear, at 30s.) per load . . . . J Carriage of hay, at 3s. 6d. per load For coal and straw, with all other necessaries and ) utensils, for the sendee of the dogg kennel . f But all these means failed to keep up the glories of old Sherwood’s deer hunting. The times and cir¬ cumstances of the neighbourhood no longer tolerated it, and although traditions of its existence and of the stir and excitement which it caused around, have not yet quite died away, aged persons having lived in our own early days who remembered it well, and were wont to relate various anecdotes respecting it, yet it gradually sunk and has become a thing of the past, to be replaced, indeed, by a no mean substi¬ tute, and one better suited to the present day, though carried on in pursuit of a more ignoble game. Allusion, of course, is made to the famous pack of foxhounds which now hunt this county. With the hounds and horns of these, the precincts of old Sher¬ wood's Forest oft ring as merrily as in days of yore, and many as gallant a steed and as fearless a rider pursue their cry as ever were seen in earlier times. £ s. D. 800 00 OO 163 16 OO 60 00 00 3 ° 00 00 06 00 00 10 08 00 100 00 00 40 00 00 80 00 00 150 00 00 105 00 00 12 05 00 50 00 00 T807 09 00 $herwood 3 foi;e$t. 213 And if aforetime, as we know was often the case, our ancient kings and princes sallied forth with their noble retinues from the castle of Nottingham, or from their palace of Clipston; or if later, as in the case of James I., and of his ill-fated successor the first Charles, or of William of Orange, from Rufford or Welbeck to follow “the branchy-headed stags:’’ so in our own day also, the hunting field of this district has not been without its royal visitant, having been honoured by the presence of the heir to England’s throne, when the present Prince of Wales was, in the year 1861, on a visit to the late-lamented Duke of Newcastle, at Clumber. With respect to the forest at large indeed, the glories of old Sherwood have departed, both as re¬ gards its vert and its venison ; though very consider¬ able portions of both these sylvan riches are preserved in the parks of the neighbouring nobility and gentry. Instance at Welbeck, Thoresby, and Rufford, where goodly herds of deer and many a noble oak, some of which may have seen the days of bold Robin Hood, are still to be seen. Yet of what constituted the forest in general, it can no longer be said, in the language of a noble bard of its own, who here clearly drew his inspiration from the ancestral home of his youth, to be “ Crowned by high woodlands, where the Druid oak, Stood like Caractacus, in act to rally His host, with broad arms ’gainst the thunder stroke, While from beneath his boughs are seen to sally The dappled foresters—as day woke The branching stag swept down with all his herd To quaff a brook that murmured like a bird.” Byrott. In these respects, over the forest at large, “Ichabod’’ is inscribed in legible characters. A bit of the real old Sherwood, however, still lingers in the remains of 214 Ancient Jfli$tot|y of Birkland and Bilhagh, near Ollerton and Edwinstowe, and truly beautiful it is, vividly recalling the memories of the olden days. To the lover of nature, and especi¬ ally to the admirer of sylvan scenery, nothing more delightful can well be imagined than to spend a summer’s day amidst its sunny glades, or under the shade of its venerable oaks. To such, one would say, in the language of our immortal bard, (himself no small lover of vert and venison, albeit, unless he be sadly maligned, in a somewhat illicit way,) in that sweet creation of his fancy, “ As You like it,” “ Under the greenwood tree, Who loves to lie with me, And tune the merry note Unto the sweet bird's throat, Come hither, Come hither, Come hither.” The Forest had also in its midst two monasteries, the Abbey of Rufford and the Priory of Newstead ; while at its extremities were the Abbey of Welbeck, the Priory of Worksop, and the Abbey of Lenton; the last of which was endowed by King John with the tithe of all his venison in the counties of Notting¬ ham and Derby. The monastery, however, which was peculiarly that of the Forest was Newstead, or as it was termed “ Monasterium de Novo Loco in Shirwood.” This was a royal foundation, established by our second Henry, about the year 1170, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, and endowed by him, not very richly, with the site of the Priory and the surrounding district, together with the adjoining vill of Papplewick, the church, and the mill thereof, which the canons had made. He also gave considerable property in Scepwick and Walkeringham. He fur¬ ther granted to the canons freedom from all land and secular services, and exemption from toll and custom throughout England. JjSheipvood 3foi|cst. 2I 5 Among the early benefactors appears Robert de Caux, the forester of Sherwood; and of later times, viz. 15th Edward ill. a charter is extant of two brothers of a truly forest name, Henry and Robert de Edwinstowe, clerks, granting to this convent the whole manor of North Muskham, on condition of the finding of two chaplains to celebrate divine offices for ever, daily, in the church of the Blessed Mary of Edwinstowe. 0 This document is witnessed, among others, by other forest names, such as Adam de Everingham, Lord of Laxton, descendent of Robert de Caux, and Thomas Longvillers, knts., Robert de Calveton, Hugo de Normanton, and others. To this retired monastery we have evidence that our early monarchs who, after their fashion, were men of piety, no less than of violence, often resorted during their visits to their favourite hunting ground of Sher¬ wood, and during their sojourn at their palace of Clipston. And surely we may hope that amidst the sylvan solitudes, far apart from the pride and circum¬ stance of glorious war and kingly state, in this quiet habitation dedicated to religion, their proud and vio¬ lent nature may have been somewhat toned down and softened, and their thoughts led to seek a king¬ dom not of this world. Even the very convent bell, while calling to early matins and rousing from his lair the gallant stag, may, we may well suppose, have struck into the heart of bold Robin, whose name is still preserved in the neighbouring hills,—his former resort,—and into the hearts of his associates and fol¬ lowers, some sense of religion, and caused them to pause for a moment in their lawless career. Thus we may hope, this retired royal foundation may not have been altogether without its good effects, suited to the age in which it flourished, till it fell with a Charter exhibited at a Meeting of the British Archaeological Association, March 25, 1863. 2l6 Ancient Bistotiy oi other similar establishments in the reign of Henry VIII. Its revenues, spiritual and temporal, were then valued at £219 18s. 8j4d. per annum. It was shortly after, namely, 27 May, 32 Henry VIII. granted it to Sir John Byron, Knt. of Colwick; in which family it continued till it was sold by its most renowned possessor of wide-spread poetic fame to Colonel Wildman, and after his death to its present possessor, William Frederick Webb, Esq. The monastic remains are still considerable here; a residence having been formed, by the Byron family, out of the Priory buildings. These are chiefly ar¬ ranged, as usual, around a cloistered court, on the south side of the nave of the church. The allies of the cloister are still preserved, and form communica¬ tions to the different parts of the house, their outer walls having been raised, and passages made above to the upper apartments. On the east side is the chapter-house, now used as the chapel of the establish¬ ment. It is a beautiful structure, divided by piers, and entered by a very fine lofty Early English door¬ way ; which has a circular head, enriched with a floreated wreath, and having banded nookshafts. To the north of this is another plainer pointed por¬ tal, now closed, which has led into a passage or vestry adjoining the south transept of the church, which yet remains, and is incorporated into the house; and now alas ! converted into a billiard room. The north alley of the court occupies the usual place of the south aisle of the nave of the church, which seems always to have been deficient in this member. At the western end of this alley is a plain doorway, now closed, which has formed an entrance into the church, from this quarter. Here, it is pro¬ bable, was the Prior’s lodging, this being a usual site of that appendage of Augustine houses, as was the case at Bridlington and Worksop. This building, $het]wood or[e$t. 217 standing upon an undercroft, divided by a row of columns still remains, though it has been considerably altered in the time of the Byrons, and extended south¬ ward, with the addition of a tower at its south end, since their days. On the south side of the court was, no doubt, the refectory ; the entrance doorway of which may be observed near the west end. This room seems to have been placed parallel with the cloister alley. To the east of this would be the kitchen department, which still preserves much of its ancient site. Over this part extensive modern buildings have been erected, containing some of the finest rooms in the house, which is replete with objects of interest, especially with relics of its illustrious poetical Lord. With the exception of what has been already men¬ tioned, nothing remains of the body of the church, but the west front. It appears, however, to have been a structure of large dimensions, and it seems that the choir extended as far as the monument, still remaining, which the poet erected to the memory of his dog, “ Boatswain.” This, it is probable, occupies the place of the high altar ; the cynical bard, as it seems evident from the tenour of the inscription, in¬ tending thereby to indicate that his dead favourite was more worthy of interment in that place of honour than the great ones, who usually are laid there. The bones of one of the latter, indeed, he is said to have disinterred, when making his dog’s grave, and caused the skull to be formed into a drinking cup, mounted with silver, and bearing the inscsiption, to be found among his “ Occasional Pieces,” beginning with “ Start not, nor deem my spirit fled.” This relic of mortality was long exhibited here; but has, by the present owner from a very proper feeling, been consigned again to a quiet resting-place, within the precincts of the abbey. 5 $her|u?ood Forest. 218 The west end of the church is nearly perfect, and is a structure of very great beauty. It is divided by but¬ tresses, which have niches, and are richly supplied with canopies and crockets. The centre compartment has a large principal window, now wreathed with ivy, from which the tracery is gone. Above this is a four-light flat-headed window, having a niche on each side, and above, another niche containing figures of the Virgin and Child. The side compartments are blank panelled, above, in the form of large four-light windows with geometrical tracery; and below with an arcade of pointed arches, the centre pierced with a fine double portal of several orders, and the north side by a single plainer one. So extremely beautiful an example, does the front present, of the purest age of Gothic architecture of the date of the end of the 13th cen¬ tury, that we cannot but feel that the church must have been a structure of no ordinary character; indeed, as its own bard expresses himself, an example of “ A rich and rare (Mixed) Gothic such as artists all allow, Few specimens are left us to compare Withal.” Remains of Chpston faiace. CHAPTER XIV. Cjjr ICnnti nf Holiiii Mnntr. By Spencer T. Hall, Ph.D., M.D., M.A., “The Sherwood Forester.” “ Now be it ours with pilgrim thought to go And view thy forest, Sherwood ! far and wide.” Robert Millhouse. jjHERWOOD Forest, wild, pastoral, and sylvan realm of ancient renown ! there is witchery in the very name, that even yet makes the heart of the patriot or the poet beat quicker whenever he hears it. Nor is this feeling confined to its natives. I have met with Scandinavians, Ger¬ mans, French, and people from all parts of English- speaking America and elsewhere, who loved to hear and talk about it. And old age still delights, by the fireside, in telling its traditions, while childhood as in¬ terestedly and lovingly turns up its face and listens. And though from the rapid increase of population, the rage for gain, and many other causes, the aspect of our whole country is fast changing, and spots where “the heather, furze, and harebell grew” are reduced to tillage; even rough boys in their corduroys still kindle with the ancient fire as they tread those spots. I was once standing in a field with a playfellow, as the twilight stole over us and the distant hall of 220 ^he Land of Hardwick, Sutton spire, and other objects conspicuous by daylight vanished from sight, when a thrill ran through us both, as the boy said, in a low but earnest voice, “ this was once part of Sherwood Forest, and Robin Hood and his men stood herd' In these days of rapid transmutation, there is no guaranteeing that a single feature of the whole dis¬ trict may long remain unchanged. The wilderness of one generation is the garden of the next. High places are made low and rough places plain. Towns extend as woods diminish. Even Robin Hood’s Hills, looking back to the west over all Ashfield and Scarsdale, to the North Peak of Derbyshire, and bounding the Vale of Newstead as it spreads to the east, are now not only threaded by a rail¬ way, but shelter part of the large rising village of “ New Annesley,” a portion of which is built in their very bosom, while a beautiful new church crowns the scene. Yet, so long as a single touch of nature and the old names are left, a charm for the historian and the poet will linger about them; and should the last verdant glade become a populous street, those who may dwell in it will better love their homes, for standing where once bloomed the forest heather and waved the historic tree. Anywhere on its outskirts not a hamlet can rise, or a village street extend, but the people tenaciously claim for it some old sylvan name. In Woodman Dale, where I wandered as a child, there has been little or nothing for a woodman to do for three generations at least. At the Green Woodfalls, between Fulwood and Hucknall-under-Houthwaite, there has been little green wood to fell since I was born. By Lingside (i.e. heather side) Road there has been no heather growing for many a year. All down Forest Lane are springing up factory chimneys, where majestic oaks once marked Bobin JjJood. 22 1 the scene. And yet wherever along the valleys of the Maun, Meden, Coldwell-brook, or Leen, such changes are occurring, you meet with these and similar names, evidently descriptive ones in the days when they were given, and to which successive genera¬ tions hold with unmistakable feelings of affection, always resenting any attempted change of the olden nomenclature by new-comers. And there are still, despite all changes, not a few of those features remaining, even though some of them be wide apart, which characterised the whole region ere its disafforestation commenced. From the Trent to the YVollen and the Rye or Ryton, from Nunbrook to Doverbeck—an expanse, I suppose, of something like ninety thousand acres and which once embraced most of what went by the name of Sher¬ wood, though the country bore a forest-like character right down to the sea, near Whitby—are still wooded nooks and bits of open heath, fern-clad slopes, and bowery dells, groups of mighty oaks interspersed with waving birch trees, with here and there a sturdy, many-armed giant standing all alone, and the whole so refreshed by sweet whispering brooks, and so gleaming occasionally with quiet lakelets, the haunts of wild waterfowl, as to offer to the wandering natura¬ list a thousand delights :—while to the archaeologist, the historian, the architect, and the artist, in the re¬ mains of ancient abbeys and other fabrics, the rising up of more modern mansions, the new planting of woods, and many gorgeous signs of patrician influence predominating in place of the old kingly regime, not a little is retained or revived of its former glory and effect on the feelings. Start where we will, penetrate it in whatever direc¬ tion, end where we may, the ramble is one continued romaunt. Nottingham, included in the ancient forest boundaries, has many a lingering relic of days anterior 222 jj>he k>and of to written history. We do know that this part of the kingdom was once inhabited—though for how long we cannot tell—by Coritani, i.e. people dressing in skins. And how natural for such a people to inhabit such a region ! Numbers of caves, cut in the sandy rock, now form the cellars to houses in that extensive town, and open out at its outskirts on almost every side : those in the gardens at the foot of the Park on the south, and those in and near the Church-cemetery on the north, very notably; and as both the dress and food of the Coritani must have been obtained by hunting and fishing, we may easily infer the nature of the country around them in the time when they flourished. No wonder that it was of too forest-like a character for the Romans, Saxons or Danes to change entirely, as they successively followed on the scene. No wonder that when the Norman Kings, and their pro¬ geny, had erected Nottingham into a royal residence, Nimrods as some of them affected to be, they should fix on such a tract, so nobly swelling here, so widely expanding there, so embowered and streamy yonder, so wild and so beautiful everywhere, as a favourite hunting-ground for themselves, their guests, and their retainers. Ready prepared by nature, custom, and every" association of the mind, every charm of the eye, for their enjoy^ment, the wonder would have been— considering whom and what they" were—had they not done all that was possible to conserve and perpetuate it. Possibly in the Anglo-Norman day not more than one-fifth of the whole territory was cleared and en¬ closed, the rest being retained for the monarch’s plea¬ sure. Without a charter from him, no man might hunt or turn cattle there to graze, but with liability to the most horrid penalties. Even the Saxon Kings must have loved old Sher- Robin $ood. 223 wood as an occasional resort. Edwinstowe is believed to have been a royal residence in their days, as was Clipston afterwards. Gamelbere, of Cuckney, held his manor by the tenure of shoeing King Edward the Confessor’s palfrey, as often as he should stay at Mansfield. Henry II. is said to have been lost while hunting between Mansfield and Sutton-in-Ashfield, and Robert Dodsley founded his celebrated drama, “ The King and the Miller of Mansfield',' on the story. If, however, the fact of the mill between the two towns being called King’s Mill, is the only evidence, as some people say, the story is doubtful, since it was so called from being a manorial mill and therefore the King’s own, and for a similar reason “ King’s Mills” abound all England through. One fact is generally admitted, that King John stayed so much at Clipston as to give the palace there, or what remains of it, his name to this day; and another is equally clear, that Edward 1. on receiving news of a revolt in Wales, A.D. 1290, held a council under the shade of an immense oak, the well- guarded trunk of which is yet standing at the corner of Clipston park, on the side of the road between Mansfield and Edwinstowe, and is famous all the country through, as “ Parliament Oak.” We have authority for believing that Edward II. and Edward ill. also occasionally sojurned at Clip¬ ston. James I. and his unfortunate son Charles I., it is well-known, were greatly attached to the neigh¬ bourhood. James sometimes found his way to New- stead Abbey. The last chase in Sherwood, we read of Charles I. being engaged in, was a very forlorn one. Dickenson says, “on the 15th August, 1645, the king was at Wclbeck with a flying army, from thence he went to Southwelland it may be added that he not long afterwards went, or was taken, to his doom. It was during those troublous days that many of the most magnificent woods of the forest were destroyed. 224 ^ h e & a n d of And from that period it has been gradually changing its character, its most important privileges being vested in the keeping of several of the local nobility and gentry, who have reserved, enjoyed, or altered, almost at their pleasure. Still when Thoroton wrote in 1677, something like a forest state was kept up, with a considerable array of officers and keepers of every grade. Several of the forest-keepers’ houses are even yet standing, one a little beyond the church of Sutton-in-Ashfield by the Alfreton road, and another in the fields, at a place called Holbeck Hay, near Fulwood, in the same parish; while wherever a village or hamlet bears the name of Wood-house, it may be taken for granted that such a house once stood, the dwellings of other people having originally clustered around it for the sake of good neighbour¬ hood and the wood-keeper’s protection. Strange in their way, were the incidental occupa¬ tions of many people in the forest, or on its side, in and since those days. As late as the reign of Henry VI. a person was living at or near Mansfield Wood- house, who had certain privileges as compensation for employing a horn-blower to frighten wolves away, in the adjacent parts; and, in more recent times, the father of the late Samuel Plumb, the poet, was allowed to live with his family rent free, at a house called the Odd Place, between Lambley and Wood- borough, on condition that he kept the forest-deer from destroying his landlord’s fences in that quarter. William Hutton, the antiquarian, tells us that when in his younger days he used to go early on a Saturday morning, from Nottingham to Southwell to sell books, he once met some men returning with their prey from deer-stealing; and many other characteristic illustrations might be quoted. Offering such sylvan covert, and such ready game, as it must at all times have done, it is no wonder that Bobln JJood. 225 in days gone by Sherwood Forest should have been the resort of outlaws, “ ne’er-do-weels,” and marauders of many kinds. Everybody has heard of Robin Hood and Little John, or as the old ballads sometimes called him John Little—a corruption, perhaps a jocose one, of John Le Tall; for judging by his thigh-bone, when it was dug up and measured at Hathersage, within the last century, he must have been an im¬ mensely tall fellow. There have been so many ridiculous stories associ¬ ated with the name of Robin Hood, as to make many cautious people doubt if ever there was such a man at all. Perhaps what I have said on the subject in my “ Sketches of Remarkable People,” may not be here altogether out of place:—“ It is doubtful if any character was ever more used, or more abused, by fiction. He has been placed in various times by various rhymes ; and so late as the reign of Henry vil.—for I believe we never see him so styled in any¬ thing written earlier—a London ballad writer, hard up for a word to rhyme with Little John, created him Earl of Hunting*?# ! Sir Walter Scott, influenced by some of the less ancient ballads, exhibits him at Ashby-de-la-Zouch in the reign of Richard 1. Hunter, for whose name and genius as an historian we must all feel respect, thinks he has got a true genealogy, and disposes of him somewhat differently, though, to my thought, not much better. A clever analytical critic might, perhaps, very easily cut up any theory that has been given on the subject, as he may cut up mine,—which is, that Robin Hood was in olden days a mythical title, assumed by, or given to any great woodland outlaw of the hour—the name being an elisional pronunciation of Robin o’ th’ Wood. I believe, however, that there was one man who bore it with more dignity than all the rest; that he was born at Loxley, near Sheffield, on the lands that had be- 226 ^he Land of longed to Earl Waltheof, the last great resistant of the Norman regime; that from inherited antipathy to the Norman kings, he joined the popular side, under Simon de Montfort, as did Little John ; and that on being defeated at the battle of Evesham, in August, 1265, the two formed a companionship between them¬ selves, and a leadership of other outcasts and sym¬ pathisers,—seeking refuge and subsistence in the woods of North Notts., and in the dales and doughs of West Yorkshire and Derbyshire, but making oc¬ casional excursions to other regions ; and, perhaps, sometimes dressing themselves, as we are told they did, in “green and gold,” to render themselves less distinct in landscapes where broom and gorse so abundantly flourished.” For the rest, I believe that such outlaws were regarded by the populace more as honourable though unfortunate patriots than as thieves, and under the particular leadership in question conducted themselves in a manner, to some extent, justifying that character. 1 But not always were the freebooters of Sherwood Forest under such a chivalrous and patriotic discipline as that of Robin Hood. Perhaps even some assum¬ ing the same title might present barbarous contrasts, and perform acts of which he would get the credit, but of which he would have been ashamed. In more recent days we know that most fearful crimes were perpetrated, both in the forest and on its boundaries. Crossed as it was by several great roads, so that much of the traffic between considerable towns and cities would have to pass through it, every temptation was offered to highwaymen and other ill characters, by those who travelled there; and with whom, there is reason to believe, innkeepers themselves sometimes concerted. This was notoriously so with the occu¬ pants of one house, now however, no longer an inn. a Thierry's “ History of the Norman Conquest in Britain.” Bobi n JjJood. 227 In the memory of a person, who was my informant, on some alterations being made in the walls of an old inn at Mansfield, the remains of a man having a bow and quiver, and other relics of a forest-habit about him, were found built up in what had first been a sort of chimney. On taking down a stable that had once belonged to a little inn, by the old Chesterfield and Newark road, near Sutton, the skeleton of a man, per¬ chance some murdered traveller, was found in the same way. Even so late as to be talked of, as though it were a recent matter to them, by old people I knew, fearful mention was made of a highwayman named Lacey, who would let any traveller through the forest go free, if he only bore a certain pass-word from some of the inkeepers on its outskirts. In the parish re¬ gister of Blidworth, there is a record by a clergyman, very few generations back, of a highwayman being killed near there by a common soldier in single com¬ bat; and in the days of my own childhood George Wass, the Sutton carrier, had his waggon stopped and plundered,near the Hut, on the Nottingham and Mans¬ field road,—a thing that would now be considered utterly impossible. All that, however, belongs, not to the bright side, but to the night side of our subject. Let us change the picture : And as the poet climb'd yon fern clad hills To scan the glowing prospect thence out-spread, Its light-curved lakes, whose tributary rills, Now hid, now sparkling, through the forest sped ; The flocks that on their fertile borders fed, The wood’s wild tresses waving in the breeze, The venerable ruin’s hoary head Dim seen afar among the dusky trees, We'll share the heavenly joys he drew from scenes like these! " a There can be no doubt that when this stanza was written, Newstead Abbey was in my mental view, and 1 regret that now there is no public approach to that place : for beautiful yet solemn as the hour of twilight are one’s recollections of it and the Forest around it. Every place, like every man, has a spiritual as well as physical 228 ^ 5 he &and of Our bonny rivulets ! Let us mark the courses of a few of them. Through what varying scenes do they find their way to the Idle and the Trent! Did it ever occur to many of you, good people of Worksop, Ret¬ ford, and thereabouts, to study the country west, south-west, and south of you, geologically and geo¬ graphically ? Almost like the radii of a fan do the valleys of many streams extend from the low-lying meadows of the Idle or Ydle, to the uplands on or beyond the forest’s verge. Beginning on the right, let us glance up the Rye, with its romantic rifts through the Anston Crags, so familiar to you all. Next, the Boulter, coming from not very dissimilar scenes about Scarcliff to Langwith and Clumber. Then the Wollen, flowing so peacefully into Welbeck lake, first struggling through those wild and lofty crags at Cresswell and Markland Grips. Anon the Meden, winding through Thoresby, and up by Budby, being and influence peculiarly its own, and appealing to corresponding principles in the human mind. The scenes and associations of Newstead impart a tenderness and solemnity to the feelings—a calm reflective light to the heart— that afterwards, go wherever we may, can never entirely forsake us. Of this every one who has visited them will feel more or less conscious, according to the degree of his natural susceptibility ; but something of it must be experienced even by the most obdurate. It is a place in which the Past still loiters as though it could not depart. True, the young and growing woods—the ever fresh and shining waters—the newly added towers, and modern culture all around,—these are of the present, and make us aware that our own life is also in the present and the future. But how much of the past is mingled with these, to make us feel as though old Time himself had returned amongst them to contemplate them in comparison with his former doings ! However true it is, that God, who created the whole world, pronounced it all good from the beginning,—however true that haunts newly opened to us may possess more of the wild or vast, the beautiful or sublime, than many that nestle in the bosom of antiquity, — there 'will ever be a peculiar charm about a spot that has a history ; and where, in Sherwood Forest, is the place that has a history more varied, more in¬ teresting than that of Newstead? Its suns rise from woods and sets among hills that are touched with the hues and called by the names of old romance. It has been equally, though at various periods, the haunt of outlawed patriotism, chivalry, reli¬ gion, learning, poetic genius, and philanthropy ; and though—like much of the rest of the world—it is not without its stories of devilry and darkness too, there are bright passages in its history that ought never to die. The writer himself once saw sparkle, amid its scenes, the sympathetic tear of a man who, when at school, was on the same form with Byron and Peel, and who in mature years “scorned alike to be or have a slave,”—the late Colonel Wildman, who had the moral courage to advocate the emancipation of our black brethren on his own estates in the West Indies, even though he had afterwards to send out large annual sums to meet expenses, instead of receiving his accustomed income from that source, — an income which had been chiefly spent in improving Newstead, and in liberality and usefulness to all around him.— Re-adaptation oj an old note. B o b i n $ o o tl. 229 towards Park Hall and Nettleworth, as calmly and smilingly as if it had never known a ripple, traced a little higher still into the picturesque gorge of Pleasley Dale. And lastly the Maun, however clear and unchecked in its intermediate course, found a few miles before you reach its sources at Sutton, and Kirkby, and Fountain-dale, coming through what was a very similar rift, called the Rock Valley, at Mansfield. How lovable are they all! Yet not less beautiful, if less rocky, are the courses of other forest streams. The Rainworth-water com¬ ing down from near Oxton and Blidworth, expanding here, narrowing there,—now a lakelet, next a lin,— and gliding along by Rufiford Abbey, anon joining the Maun, and soon after the Meden and the Poulter, forms at length with them the Idle, as it wends towards the Trent. Then, though in quite a contrary direction, the Leen, that comes from a number of clear springs at the feet of the Annesley and Kirkby hills, soon swells out into lake after lake at Newstead, and increased by waters from Linby, passing away by Papplewick, Bulwell, Basford, Lenton, and Nottingham, sends part of its stream to the Trent opposite Wilford, and the rest down to Colwick—thereby forming a water-link, in many places beautiful (nor less classical than beautiful) between two homes, Annesley and Colwick, both belonging to the grandson of Mary Chaworth and his forest bride;—whilst the Grete from Hart’s- well bears away towards Southwell, and the Dover- beck washes the forest’s eastern boundary, ’neath waving woods and across blooming meadows; and the Trent sweeps majestically down along the whole of its southern limit, taking tribute of them all. So much for the waters; but what of our remnants of grand old pre-historic woods, that man never planted but which flourish, even to this late day, for 230 ^ h e Land of his delight ? Let us away to Birkland and Bilhagh— and as I said many years back, in “ The Peak and the Plain,” and could say nothing more to the purpose now :—Let it be supposed that we have started from the Worksop Station of the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway ; that we have glanced at the towers of the Priory Church, rising over the town roofs on our left; and had some glimpses too of the fine old manorial domain on our right; that a few miles further on we have gazed upon the ducal man¬ sion, the far-winding lakes with their white flocks of swans, the thriving woods of all hues, the elegant terrace and bridge, and the many lawn-like openings of sunny Clumber; that Thoresby House in turn and the vistas of Thoresby Park, terminating only upon the horizon, and over-scattered by the noblest herds of deer, intersected by the brightest waters, and guarded by majestic woods, with the model hamlet of Budby, and its plains of heather, and gorse, and broom, interspersed with thousands of white-blos¬ somed hawthorns have all been passed, and that we have at length reached that king of all the forest— “ The Major Oak,” near one of the paths from Budby to Edwinstowe. And here I must ask, with other writers on these scenes, for a few comparisons or con¬ trasts with your possible experiences in the past. Have you, from childhood, loved to haunt the ruins of old castle-keeps and cathedral aisles ? Or have you gone still further back into the works of time and mused for days together among the mountains, or on the wild sea-shore, where rocks are piled on rocks, sometimes in the most majestic, and at others in the most fantastic forms, at once inviting and defying the elemental influences of ages, and still standing un¬ conquered though not unscathed by the warfare ? Or have you sought the romance of geology in those deep caverns of the hills, where stalactite and stalag- Hob in Jjlood. 23 1 mite display their grotesque and wondrous mimicry of the world outside, and where the blendings of in¬ congruous shapes provoke description only that they may laugh at its baffled efforts? Because, if you have, there was not enough in all these to produce an im¬ pression equal to that made upon the soul by the scenes to which we are here introduced, and I will tell you why : the castles and cathedrals, though grand and venerable enough as works of art, had ceased to be much more than monuments of the past. The rocks, though natural and sublime as when they were first broken or reared, had themselves remained through all changes motionless and unimpressible as death. The curiosities of the caverns were as things of a world not yet come to life: but here, in Birklancl and Bilhagh, are thousands of oaks, most of which were growing in the days of our Saxon ancestors, and many of them are living and putting out their fresh leaves still! If it be true that an oak is three hundred years in its growth, that it enjoys the same length of time in undecaying maturity, and again as long a period in its venerable decline; while the hollow trunk, with a few scanty branches, will often stand at least another century and occasionally twice or thrice that time; we need not wonder at finding the cypher of King John, surmounted by the figure of a crown (an instance of which I have seen myself), far beneath the bark of some of these trees. “The Parliament Oak” must have been a full grown tree in the reign of Edward the First, or it would never have been the rallying point for his councillors when they were suddenly summoned from the hunting field to meet him in its shade. I re¬ member reading that “the old oak of Ross, supposed to have stood 1500 years, was totally destroyed by some boys lighting a fire in its trunk.” Judging from its present appearance, and taking its history into 232 ^he £>and of account, one would think the Parliament Oak might possibly be almost as old. And yet there are hun¬ dreds here in Birkland and Bilhagh, which seem to be but a very few centuries its juniors—still girt round the middle it is true with some foliage, but throwing out their gaunt arms far above, and clutching the ground below with their tendinous roots, as vigorously as if ready for all the storms of centuries to come. The late Christopher Thomson (venerated name!) made a special measurement of the Major Oak. A considerable portion of its tendons are seen above ground, and measuring these about half-way between their junction with the trunk and their insertion in the earth, they gave a circumference of nearly thirty yards; the circumference of the trunk at nearly six feet from the ground—the height at which begin the branches—was thirty feet; the circumference of one of the arms, at a distance of four feet from the trunk, The Major Oak. R o b i» 13 o o d. 2 33 was twelve feet; the circumference of the out-spread tree at the utmost extent of its branches, was two hundred and forty feet. The recess in its trunk—for, with all its superincumbent mass of branch and leaf, it is quite hollow—afforded a diameter of nearly seven feet, and a height of fifteen feet—was, in short, not unlike one of those dark circular towers we some¬ times find in ruined castles. Seven persons at once have been known to partake a meal in it; while, no doubt, with a little contrivance, it might have ac¬ commodated more. This cavity has a narrow but convenient opening to the south, and commands a pleasant look-out into the forest, whilst affording excellent shelter. It was at one time called the Cockpen-tree , from its interior being occupied as a hen-roost. Many a poor wanderer has passed a winter’s night in a worse place; and yet, notwith¬ standing this internal decay, it is externally one of the most noble and perfect trees in the kingdom. Numerous trees are, from one cause or other, sufficiently distinct and conspicuous thus to bear specific names. Just as, by the old Lingside-road to Cocksmoor, one hollow oak was called the Warehouse from having once been used as a hiding place for stolen hosiery ; so another, here in Birkland, was called the Shambles Oak from there being iron hooks in it on which stolen forest-mutton was suspended. The Greendale Oak, with a coach-road through it, and the Duke's Walking Stick, at Welbeck, are noted all England over; and at the end of this chapter will be found an engraving of one patriarchal “senator of the woods,” well known to visitors of Birkland and Bilhagh, as the Simon Forester Oak. In Rockingham forest and elsewhere I have seen some grand old hollow boles, more like the ruins of towers than of trees at all. But in the age of its capacious trunk,—the power of its yet solid limbs, 16 234 ^he of and the freshness of its foliage,—we have in the Major Oak, antiquity, majesty, and beauty at once, and apparently not likely to be diminished for cen¬ turies to come. Spreading away from this point, for a mile or two eastward, in the direction of Ollerton, and partly im¬ parked in the precincts of Thoresby, are older trees of the most patriarchal, weather-warped, and pic¬ turesque physiognomy.' Sometimes they stand two or three together, without foliage at all, on a space otherwise comparatively cleared; and, in the distance, are not unlike the shattered columns, arches, and pinnacles of ruined temples. Sometimes they look more like the bastions of old citadels, from which all the intervening walls have crumbled away. Anon, they become more densely congregated, and through them are seen far-stretching glades, “long drawn aisles, and fretted vaults,” not very unlike the decayed and desolated streets of an ancient oriental city, beautifully justifying C. R. P-cmbertoiis simile of “ a ruined Palmyra of the forest,” where little of animated life can be discerned, save now and then, flapping through the still gloom, one of those lone birds that love to haunt the ruin and the wilderness: unless— just as if to dissolve the dream, and remind us of our real when and whereabouts—some stray or startled deer should^bound ’swiftly by, and make us almost expect to see a wild outlaw leap from his lair to give it chase. And now let us turn our faces westward, towards Birkland—the land of Birches—so named from every space between the oaks (excepting a few drives, glades, and wood-walks designedly left open) being filled up by delicate birch trees, in indescribable luxuriance and beauty. Did you ever study the birch, as it stood alone on the lawn, or hung its tresses from the side of some wild B o b i n $ o o d. 235 dell, seeming to lend more grace to every object near it ? On a still Sabbath morning in winter, after the mist of the night had fallen upon creation in one bright unsullied mantle of hoar-frost, so purely white as to make you weep that you had ever sinned in a world that could put on a look so calm and lovely, did you ever notice how the slender birch seemed more modestly, yet more gracefully veiled, more white, more bright, more pure, and more suggestive of sweet and tender thoughts than all ? Did you mark how more gladly, yet more coyly, than the other trees, she waved her lissome locks in spring, and was sought, as from sympathy, by the more gentle and innocent birds ? And how, in summer and autumn, when her stem became so silvery, and her leaves so golden, her loveliness, instead of waning, had only mellowed, whereby she pre-eminently sustained her poetical character of the “the Lady of the Woods ?” If so, then tell me what you think of the thousands, and tens of thousands of such, intermingling with these gigantic, ancient, hoary oaks, extending for more than a mile around us, in Birkland! Could the world of vegetation elsewhere present a more remarkable blending of the lissome and beautiful with the stately, venerable, and sublime, than this ? But were you ever here in a thunder-storm ! I was once, with Robert Millhouse, the poet. We had come from Thompson’s grave, over the heather of Mans¬ field Forest, by Sherwood Hall, and along the side of a brook called the Vicker, to Clipston hamlet,— observing by the way many unmistakable signs of the storm’s gathering. As we left the ruins of King John’s palace, all the white objects in the landscape flashed whiter for the blackness of the sky,—that spurious sort of gleam from the electric state of the atmosphere, which for a moment makes us look about to see where the sun is, and causes us to feel 236 ^he £>and of half-cheated when he is nowhere to be found. But this did not deter us from walking on till we had got far into a glade of the old wood, when the crisis came, Nature seeming to have determined on one of her grandest pyrotechnic displays, in keeping with the picturesque arena. First, at some distance, came down a long shaft of lightning, like an inverted rocket, followed by a roar of thunder like a volley from a thousand cannon. Quick, and quicker, after this, in every direction, and in every imaginable form, the flashes succeeded one another: and still louder and deeper grew the thunder with each. Sometimes they shot into the wood in white-hot balls. Anon they zig-zagged, and assimilated to the fantastic shapes of the naked oak branches among which they fell. Now would descend a screw-like shaft, as with a definite aim at some defiant object. Next might be seen others more like flying serpents, darting on their sinuous way from fold to fold of the louring clouds; while the notched, scarred, gnarled, crinkled, and gaunt old trees wildly flung out their arms as if to snatch and bring them down. Altogether it seemed as if we had got into an “ eerie ” realm of powerful and mysterious beings whose delight was in “ the war of elements, the wreck of matter, and the crush of worlds.” The knees of Millhouse smote together. The sentiment of veneration, in him at all times an active principle, now almost overpowered him; and he stood for a time transfixed with wonder and awe. And there is no season of the year—hardly an hour of the day or night—in which I have not had some acquaintance with these strange wild haunts, often with warm poetical friends—but more often alone, if a man ever does feel alone with Nature. In summer and winter, by sunlight, and moonlight, and starlight, and when there was no light at all, have I B o b i n $ o o d. 23 7 sought them to feel what they were; but it is not in the power of tongue or pen to describe every impression thus made, unless with the gift of a Shakspere. And why should this be regretted ? Why should not Nature have some solemn sanc¬ tuaries—some inner temples—too beautiful and too sacred to be mimicked or babbled about, to which her devotees may be admitted only in a fitting spirit, like that of the old Druids, who could never reveal their experiences but to the initiated, and have left few, if any, written records ? Birkland and Bilhagh ! what grand mementos of our country’s prime ! Only think of the time when a lonely traveller had to amble along, with but slight occasional exceptions, for days and days through scenery like this. How different the experience daguerreotyped upon or interpenetrating//^ conscious¬ ness—transferred into his mental and moral being— from that which composes ours ! Yet here is our advantage over him : we can as it were turn back for so many ages into these scenes of his, whilst those to which we are more generally accustomed, must be as far on this side the bounds of his anticipations as though they belonged to a separate world, and a different race. In wandering near Budby, at the commencement of the year 1873, I had for wayside companions fourteen intelligent parallel metal wires, in some places all but touching the trees—a portion of our national telegraphic system! What lingers of open forest in the middle and southern parts of the district is now vanishing more rapidly than ever under the hand of improvement. And I love improvement, I love to see the land gradually change with the mind of the people, from a wilderness to a garden. And yet I trust that, both in the land and the mind, a few such memorials of the old time as Birkland and Bilhagh may long 2 3 8 $hc IBand of Robin Jjtood. remain, that the beginning and end of our rural and social history may be the better understood by our progeny, as the world rolls on towards the fulfilment of its wondrous destiny. Birkland and Bilhagh, farewell ! Simon Forester Oak. CHAPTER XV. tributes tn ijjrruiDii^i /crest icmnj, By V try ions Writers. S a sort of Sherwood Garland—a Forest Wreath—a genial Album with contribu¬ tions from the past and present, we wish to bequeath to the future, in this chapter, with all possible impartiality, what has been said by other writers in kinship with the foregoing, descrip¬ tive of a region that cannot but be dear to every lover of picturesque sylvan scenery. It must be in¬ teresting to see what can be said on the same theme by writers so different in mental cast and in their ordinary pursuits and experiences, as those from whom we are now about to make selections. Think of Charles Reece Pemberton, that “wondrous comet in the social system,” as Dr. Hall has somewhere called him, who was familiar with nearly half the globe,—who had mated alike with Bedouins of Arabia and Indians and Backwoodsmen of America, in their strange, wild, primitive haunts—who had indeed loitered and basked in many of the fairest spots of earth—coming hither and finding in Birk- land and Bilhagh an elysium surpassing them all ! Think of Washington Irving, familiar alike with the 2‘iO (ij$ j]ibutes to astern and no small portion of the eastern world, being enchanted here ;—while William Howitt, one of the finest impersonations of the genius of rural England, could justly paint the following grand picture in words—no, not a picture—a noble poem, though not in verse, in which literary sculpture, fine colouring and music all unite to win alike the intellect and the heart! Nor do we think, it a slight privilege to unite with such writers as these, the late Christopher Thomson, the once bright and jovial George Searle Phillips (January Searle), and the anonymous author of “ A Glimpse of Sherwood,” the fruits of whose gifted minds will here be welcome. 3 Pcqj into Stirrlnooh forest. By Charles Reece Pemberton. T the little, out of the way, undisturbed village of Edwinstowe you can see no indication, nor, without previously acquired knowledge, would you guess that you are within five minutes walk of the most perfect specimen of antique forest, the most seques¬ tered and distinctly charactered elf and fairy realm on earth. It is the last vestige of Sherwood’s right to renown. It stands alone, as it has stood for the last thousand years; as it stood centuries before grace¬ less King John and his graceless nobles and courtiers hunted the deer under its umbrageous boughs. . . . By itself it stands, and is like no other spot on which my eyes have ever looked, or my feet have ever trod. It is Birkland, a beautiful land of beautiful birches, with, near it, adjoining it, a noble neighbour, Billagh, or Bcllchagh, all of oaks which have seen ten generations ccme and pass away. Among the birches, too, stand many of these tall, huge, bulky, and venerable giants. ... A few paces more, and Edwinstowe is behind you ; here the road branches off in Y fashion ; that to the left inclining more to a right angle with the street: the right hand road leads to Thoresby Park—the left is the road to nowhere or anywhere ; for as your eye runs along it you perceive it grows turfy and green, being little $hei|uiood Jfoiiest fjSceneijy. 24 I trodden, except by sheep and harvest wains. Take either of these roads, but proceed directly onwards. Just at the junction of the forks, the apex of the angle, is a company of tall graceful trees, firs and other gentlefolks, towering aloft, and very beautiful: look well at them, take impressions of them strongly—they are the portal spirits to something more grand, august, sublime ; perhaps they are octogenarians—or a century old, yet they will appear like striplings, infants, by the contrast to which you are approaching. Walk down upon that smooth sinking* sweep of undulation : how gracefully it bends ! like the mighty magnificent curve in a vast and green Atlantic billow, which by some omnipotence, some invisible hand, has been suspended in its rolling, and fixed thus as we see it. “ Here let the billows stiffen and have rest," said the great voice, and it was so. A stone-covered well is all that breaks the verdant, rootless, tuftless, weedless surface ; an upholsterer would not have nailed his green baize or drugget more evenly on your parlour carpet, nor glued his paper more wrinkclcssly —so lies this verdant carpet, this fixed curve of the sea, till the uprising, crowning crest of the billow, ruffled with gorse, with its millions of yellow blossoms,—the ocean spray changed into bright and burning gold, which mingles its glory with the bending blue of heaven. That is the barrier ridge which completely conceals the universe beyond ; and is it not a gorgeous barrier ? It is so resplendent in its beauty that your heart throbs in loving worship of it. Here pause at its foot, and drink in the joy which it pours forth abundantly; and having done so, look upward to the ridge, and without pausing in your step as you wind to the summit, do but mark how those hoary- headed giants march up, forward upon, into your vision—and from the ridge bound down that gently inclining slope. In twenty steps the world is quite shut out: you are in a strange, solemn, and old universe. . . . Lift up your head, and gaze and gasp in the overpowering inspiration—which penetrates limbs—heart—and soul ! and holds you mute awhile. A magnificent temple—the ruined Palmyra of the forest, roofed by the wide arch of heaven ! beautifully grand—awful, solemn, and deeply, intensely affecting: while it bows you down in adoration, it fills your spirit with love. There is nothing dark, nothing fearful, nothing sad in your soul while you gaze—you do love it—it wraps you in a sublimity of affection—you feel it is all your friend—your 242 ^tjibiUes to parent, your guardian—it blesses you, while you worship it: and you bless it for the blessing it bestows. You feel that it was not the pride of man—nor the mockery of a false religion which reared this wondrous temple—that neither fraud nor oppression mingled in the design— nor has human vanity ever desecrated the holy place with monuments to its honour. Grey and hoary with antiquity, the massive columns, though scathed and rent and bruised by a thousand storms, yet uplift themselves in stately dignity. . . . But turn your eye to the left westward ; what see you there ? Is it a sun-burst upon a line, a sheet, a field of silver ? or the snowy haze of a dewy exhalation floating beneath a denser and darker canopy of clouds ? Neither. What thus fixes your gaze in admiration are the thousands of white and glistening stems of graceful birch-trees—silent spirits of beauty— sylphs in meditation—dryad damsels assembled there to dream. Look at them, and wonder at their glory. Are you not impelled, attracted by a hidden and indefinable sympathy towards them ? How you wish and long to mingle your being and every sense with that quiet, harmonious, and delicious solitude, which waft to you a wooing invitation. Then away ! spring over the elastic carpets of richly tinted mosses—dash through the yielding heather barriers—pause and stoop to look on the bright red stems that bend to your pressure, entwine round your limbs, and flash their beauty up into your eyes. You are stepping on, through and over the annually renovated growths of twenty centuries or more ; and the prostrate brown ferns which crackle beneath your feet, will, in a few weeks, send up from their earth hidden roots, thousands of tall, curling, green younglings, to mingle with the purple blossoms of the heather—then may you riot and roll in a sea of perfume—leap, spring, bound along now in a delight which feels not the clog of animality. You inhale the exhila¬ rating gas in such copiousness, that veins and arteries are no longer the channels of blood—they are all air-cells and electric conductors : the bird above your head floats not more buoyantly than you bound and sail on this precious bosomed earth. Wind your way down to that broad line of clearing, that avenue of enchantment; it seems to have been intended for a carriage road, but, luckily, the projector, rather amending his taste, or growing sick of the novelty, no longer charmed with his first vague, unfastening impressions ot beauty, has abandoned it again to the old possessors, turf, and fern, and heather. Here walk awhile, slowly it must be, for you are fascinated into hesi- $hcijwood Jfoijest $cenetjg. 243 tation, and pause at every step. There they are, grouped in magical beauty, silent loveliness ! amid each group, in serious pride of con¬ templation of the gracious forms and spirits around him, stands a reverend oak, smiling serenely, serenely and benignantly smiling, while he contemplates—the sultan of the harem !—but they are not his slaves—they are free as himself. Yes, there they are, fair young nymphs ; their slender forms enveloped in white silk and silver ; their smooth limbs just perceivably waving ; and their abundant, glorious, pendulous tresses swinging in the light wind ; swaying gently to and fro, their rich heads and drooping locks are moving to the sweet music, that immortal harmony, which cannot be heard in our “ muddy vestiture of decay.” The sky above bends down upon the scene to look and listen, and clips the whole in an embrace of joy. Your soul is heaving and swelling in the fulness of happiness, of enchantment, as you gaze here. Your heart floods with a rushing tide of eloquence ; but speech is too poor to bear it along, and voiceless and tongueless it rolls within, bathing and imbuing every faculty of thought and feeling with the omnipotence of love. Oh, it is good to walk where nature unfolds her beauty amid her silentness, and you carry good back into the bustling world from these occasional visits to her flowery and woodland domains. And now you are called homeward, but ere you leave Birkland collect again to gaze, to drink in the closing draught of pleasure which the hospitable friend gives freely; and ere your foot is turned to leave it, you have each and all uttered a wish to revisit the scene, and have formed a scheme for accomplishing the wish; then, “Bless you, Birkland; good bye for the present, and remain for ever in your beauty ! ” a & ©lance at Btrfclanti anti Btlfjatjf). By Washington Irving. RIDE of a few miles farther brought us at length among the venerable and classic shades of Sherwood. Here I was delighted to find myself in a genuine wild wood, of primitive and natural growth, so rarely to be met with in this thickly peopled and highly cultivated country. It reminded me of the aboriginal forests of my native land. I rode through natural alleys and green- Monthly Repository, June. 1834 • tributes to 244 wood glades, carpeted with grass and shaded by lofty and beautiful beeches. What most interested me, however, was to behold around the mighty trunks of veteran oaks, the patriarchs of Sherwood Forest. They were shattered, hollow, and moss-grown, it is true, and their “ leafy honours’’ were nearly departed ; but, like mouldering towers, they were noble and picturesque in their decay, and gave evidence, even in their ruins, of their ancient grandeur. As I gazed about me upon these vestiges of once “ merry Sher¬ wood,” the picturings of my boyish fancy began to rise in my mind, and Robin Hood and his men to stand before me. “He clothed himself in scarlet then, His men were all in green ; A finer show throughout the world In no place could be seen. Good Lord ! it was a gallant sight, To see them all in a row ; With every man a good broadsword And eke a good yew bow.” The horn of Robin Hood again seemed to sound through the forest. I saw his sylvan chivalry, half huntsmen, half freebooters, trooping across the distant glades, or feasting and revelling beneath the trees. I was going on to embody, in this way, all the ballad scenes that had delighted me when a boy, when the distant sound of a wood-cutter’s axe roused me from my day-dream. The boding apprehensions which it awakened were too soon verified. I had not ridden much farther when I came to an open space where the work of destruction was going on. Around me lay the prostrate trunks of venerable oaks, once the towering and magnificent lords of the forest, and a number of woodcutters were hacking and hewing at another gigantic tree, just tottering to its fall. Alas for old Sherwood Forest! it had fallen into the possession of a noble agriculturalist, a modern utilitarian, who had no feeling for poetry or forest scenery. In a little while and this glorious woodland will be laid low ; its green glades turned into sheepwalks, its legen¬ dary bowers supplanted by turnip fields, and “ merry Sherwood” will exist but in ballad and tradition . 5 Newstead Abbey,” 1835. jjShetjwood Jj'ot]cst jjJceneijg. 245 .Sfycrfaooti forest. By William Howitt. ewtsIERE our Norman kings delighted to come and enjoy their | ga | hunting in summer at their palace of Clypstone, built by - Henry II.; and an especially favourite place of John, whose mark upon the forest trees growing in that neighbourhood has been repeatedly found of late years in cutting them up for timber. It was a pleasant region; varied with its hill and dale, fair lakes, some of which yet remain ; rivulets of most beautiful clearness ; woods of noble growth; and the abundant Trent rolling along its southern side. In it lay Nottingham, Mansfield, Hardwick, Welbeck, Thoresby, since the birth-place of Lady Mary Wortley Montague; Newstead, the abode of Lord Byron ; Annesley, the heritage of Mary Chaworth, and many an other ample domain. It was governed by a warden, his lieutenant, and a steward; a bowbearer, and a ranger; four verdereis, twelve regarders, four agistors, and twelve keepers in the main forest, under the chief forester, who held it in fee, with liberty to destroy and kill at pleasure, reserving one hundred deer in each walk. There were also several woodwards for every township within the forest, and one for every principal wood. It had also five hays, or royal parks, each fenced in, and furnished with its lodge; and having each a forester, going his rounds on horseback, with a page ; and two foresters on foot without a page. These hays were Best- wood, Lindbyhay, Welhay, Birkland-cum-Bilhay, and Clypstone. “ In these hays no man commons,” says the Inquisition of King Henry III., taken in the thirty-fifth year of his reign, at St. John’s house in Nottingham. They were especial reserves of game for the royal use, which was not to be disturbed by the intrusion of any other men, or their cattle, on any pretence. Besides these, there were extensive woods and demesnes: New¬ stead, Lyndhurst, Welbeck, Rufford, Romewood, Clumber, Kings- haghe, Carburton, Arnall, Edwinstowe, Mansfield-Woodhouse, Hye Forest, Kyegill, and Ravenshede, Bulwell Risse, Outhesland ( qy ., the land of Robert Fitzouth, or Robin Hood’s land ?) the barony of Southwell, and others, full of great woods of oak, many of them 700 years old ; thirteen hundred head of red deer at the very last Inquisition, besides fallow deer without number. All this is broken up, and 246 tributes to dispersed as a dream. These royal hays and demesnes have been bestowed in grants by different monarchs: as Newstead by Henry VIII. to Sir John Byron; Bestwood by Charles II., to the Duke of St. Albans, his son by Nell Gwyn ; and so on, or sold. The great woods have fallen under the axe; and repeated enclosures have re¬ duced the open forest to that part which formerly went by the name of the Hye-Forest; a tract of land of about ten miles long, by three or four wide, extending from the Nottingham road, near Mansfield west, to Clipstone-park east. This tract is, for the most part, bare of trees. Near Mansfield there remains a considerable wood, Har- lowe Wood, and a fine scattering of old oaks near Berry-hill, in the same neighbourhood; but the greater part is now an open waste, stretching in a succession of low hills, and long winding valleys dark with heather. A few solitary and battered oaks standing here and there, the last melancholy remnants of these vast and ancient woods ; the beautiful springs ; swift and crystaline brooks; and broad sheets of water lying abroad amid the dark heath, and haunted by numbers of wild ducks and the heron, still remain, Nature is not easily de¬ prived of these ; and in summer, when the plover and the lark build there, and send along those brown dales their merry whistle, or loud cries, and in autumn when the whole waste bursts into a blaze of Old Tree in the Forest. $hetjU)ood Jfotjest $cenei}y 247 crimson beauty with the blossoming heather, it is still, stripped as it is, a charming place for a contemplative ride or stroll. Here twenty years ago, Captain Cartwright might be seen following his hawks, and here still you meet a few sportsmen, with their fine dogs leaping amongst the long heather and red fern. But at the Clipstone extremity of the forest, still remains a remnant of its ancient woodlands unrifled, except of its deer-—a specimen of what the whole once was, and a specimen of consummate beauty and interest. Birkland and Bilhaghe taken together form a tract of land extending from Ollerton, along the side of Thoresby Park, the seat of Earl Manvers, to Clipstone Park, of about five miles in length, and one or two in width,—Bilhaghe is a forest of oaks; and is clothed with the most impressive aspect of age that can perhaps be presented to the eye in these kingdoms. Stonehenge does not give you a feeling of greater eld, because it is not composed of a material so easily acted on by the elements. But the hand of time has been on these woods, and has stamped upon them a most imposing character. I cannot imagine a traveller coming upon this spot without being startled, and asking himself—“what have we got here ?” It is the blasted and battered ruin of a forest. A thousand years, ten thou¬ sand tempests, lightnings, winds, and wintry violence have all flung their utmost force on these trees, and there they stand, trunk after trunk, scathed, hollow, grey, gnarled ; stretching out their bare, sturdy arms, or their mingled foliage and ruin—a life in death. All is grey and old. The ground is grey beneath, the trees are grey with clinging lichens, the very heather and fern that spring beneath them have a character of the past. If you turn aside, and step amongst them, your feet sink in a depth of moss and dry vegetation that is the growth of ages, or rather that ages have not been able to destroy. You stand and look round, and in the height of summer, all is silent; it is like the fragment of a world worn out and forsaken. These were the trees under which King John pursued the red deer 600 years ago. These were the oaks beneath which Robin Hood led up his bold band of outlaws. These are the oaks which have stood while king after king reigned ; while the Edwards and Henrys subdued Ireland, and ravaged Scotland and France; while all Europe was seeking to rescue Jerusalem from the Saracens; while the wars of York and Lancaster deluged the soil of all this kingdom with blood ; while Henry VIII. overthrew popery, wives, ministers, and martyrs 248 ?pt|ibutes to with one strong, ruthless hand; while Elizabeth, with an equal hand of unshrinking might and decision, made all Europe tremble at a woman’s name, and stand astonished at a woman’s jealousy, when she butchered her cousin, the Queen of Scots. Here they stood, while the monarchy of England fell to the ground before Cromwell and the Covenanters ; while Charles II., restored to his realm, but not to wisdom, revelled ; while under a new dynasty the fortunes of England have been urging through good and evil their course to a splendour and dominion strangely mingled with suffering and dis¬ quiet, yet giving prospect of a Christian glory beyond all precedent and conception. Through all this, these trees have here stood silently—and here they are ! monuments of ages that cannot be seen without raising in our souls remembrance of all these mighty things. To the contemplative mind they are inscribed all over with characters of strange power. They shew us at a glance, and with a palpable¬ ness which few things beside possess, how far the day of their first growth is past by ; how far the ages of feudalism and civilization lie asunder. All around them, instead of that ocean of woods, heaths, and morasses, come crowding up green fields, and the boundary- marks of free men; and if we were to see a hoary pilgrim suddenly make his appearance on the pave of a great modern town, propped on his long staff, and belted in his grey robe, with his sandal-shoon and scallop-shell, we should not feel more strongly the discrepancy of life and character between him and the spruce population around him, than between these hoary and doddered oaks and the cultured country which hems them in. But Bilhaghe is only the half of the forest-remains here: in a con¬ tinuous line with it lies Birkland—a tract which bears its character in its name—the land of Birches ! It is a forest perfectly unique. It is equally ancient with Bilhaghe, but it has a less dilapidated air. There are old and mighty oaks scattered through it, ay, some of them worn down to the very ultimatum of ruin, without leaf or bough, standing huge masses of blackness ; but the birches, of which the main portion of the forest consists, cannot boast the longevity of oaks. Their predecessors have perished over and over, and they, though noble and unrivalled of their kind, are infants compared with the oaken trunks which stand amongst them. Birkland ! it is a region of grace and poetry ! I have seen many a wood of birches, and some of them amazingly beautiful too, in one quarter or jjShetjWood Sfoijest $cenet[y. 249 another of this fair island, but in England nothing that can compare with this. It must be confessed that the birch woods which clothe the mountain sides, beautify the glens, and stud the romantic lochs of Scotland, derive a charm from the lovely and sublime forms of those mountains, glens, and waters, which is not to be expected in this lowland country. The birch trees which rear their silvery stems, tree above tree, on the rocks of the Trosachs ; the birch woods that fill the delicious valleys of Rossshire—which imparadise the glens and feather the heathery mountain sides of Glen more-nan-albin— the great glen of Scotland, traversed by the Caledonian Canal— thousands of summer tourists can testify with me are lovely beyond description : but Birkland has some advantages which they have not. Its trees have reached a size that the northern ones have not; and the peculiar mixture of their lady-like grace with the stern and ample forms of these feudal oaks, produces an effect most fairylandish and unrivalled. Advance up this long avenue, which the noble owner of this forest tract has cut through it, and looking right and left as you proceed, you shall not be able long to refrain from turning into the tempting openings that ever and anon present themselves. Enter which you please—you cannot be wrong. You may wander for hours, and still find fresh aspects of woodland beauty. These winding tracts, just wide enough for a couple of people on horseback, or a pony- pheaton to advance along, carpeted with a mossy turf that springs under your feet with a delicious elasticity, and closed in with shadowy trunks and flowery thickets—are they not lovely ? And then you come to some sudden opening, where the long pensile branches of the birches, and the sweeping masses of oaken boughs surround and shut you in with a delectable solitude, where you may lie on the warm turf and read, or listen to the whispering leaves or the solemn sough of the forest; or a merry party of you may laugh and talk to your hearts’ content, glad as the blue sky above you ; and vow that you will come and pitch your tents here for a fortnight, — a jocund company, like Shakspeare’s immortal troop in the forest of Arden. There never was scenery to realize more perfectly our idea of that forest. But go on: you enter on a wider expanse, on which a glorious oak stretches out its vast circumference of boughs that droop to the very ground, and form an ample tent, whose waving curtains fan you with the most grateful air. Here you come upon the solitary -17- 250 ^tjibutes to footpath that crosses the forest. You hear the light clap of a gate, and presently beneath the glimpsing trees, you see some rustic per¬ sonage pursuing this path, and going unconsciously past you as you stand amongst the thickets—some old man with heavy pace, or village girl hurrying along as if those woods were still haunted by dubious things. But advance, and here is a wide prospect. The woodmen have cleared away the underwood ; they have felled trees that were overtopped and ruined by their fellows ; and their billets and fallen trunks, and split-up piles of blocks, are lying about in pictorial simplicity. On all sides, standing in their solemn stead¬ fastness, you see huge, gnarled, strangely-coloured, and mossed oaks, some riven and laid bare from summit to root, with the thunderbolts of past tempests. An immense tree is called the Shamble-Oak, being said to be the one in which Robin Hood hung his slaughtered deer; but which was more probably used by the keepers for that purpose. By whomsoever it was so used, how¬ ever, there still remain the hooks within its vast hollow. The old birches, without doubt some of the largest in England, shew like true satyrs of the woods—to the height of a man, being shagged, indented, and cross-hatched, as it were, into a most satyrly roughness, and contrast well with the higher bole, which rises clear and shining as silver to the boughs, which sweep down again to the ground in graceful lightness. There is no end to the variety of their aspect and grouping. From the sylvan loveliness around you, you might fancy yourself in the outer wilderness of some Armida’s garden. In spring, these woods are all alive with the cawing of jackdaws, which build in thousands in the hollow oaks; and as their bustle ceases as the evening falls, the nightingales are heard, and the owl and the dor-hawk come soaring through the dusky air. It is just the region to grow poetical in. I never walk these woods without forgetting for the time all the cares of towns and common life. It is to me a palpable introduction into the old world of poetry and romance. There is a spirit and feeling of the intellectual world that falls on you as the peculiar spirit of the place. It seems to me that if Milton, Shakspeare, Spenser, and all those noble poets whose minds have moulded the better mind and character of this great country were to revisit it at times, when they had looked round them on the agitations of city life, to some such place would they come $hetjwood Jfoqest jgcencuy. 251 awhile to refresh themselves with their old delights, and to hold high converse on the present fashion and prospects of humanity. Nothing seems so natural to these scenes, as to imagine their presence thus joined with the kindred spirits of a later day—Scott, Byron, Shelley, Coleridge, Hogg, and the like ;—their religion, their passions, their doubts, their philosophical mysticism all now blended down into a heavenly nobility and union of heart and desire; their favourite fancies and pursuits still dear to them as ever, but their intellectual vision widened to the embracement of the universe. I seem to see Shelley and Keats going hand in hand along some fair glade; the one pouring out all that soul of love which possessed him, which he wished had been the foundation of the Christian religion instead of faith, and who yet, blinded by the impetuosity of youth and indigna¬ tion against the despotism of priestcraft, failed to see that this same love was the very life and glory of that system;—the other young poet still uttering aloud his longings for time ! time ! in which to achieve an eternity of fame:— “ Oh! for ten years that I may do the deed That my own soul has to itself decreed! ” Or Lamb, speaking to those old friends of his earthly sojourn, of some fair creature met in the valleys of heaven :— “ She loves to walk In the bright regions of empyreal light, By the green pastures and the fragrant meads, Where the perpetual flowers of Eden bow ! By crystal streams, and by the living waters. Along whose margin grows the wondrous tree Whose leaves shall heal the nations ; underneath Whose holy shade a refuge shall be found From pain and want, and all the ills that wait On mortal life, from sin and death for ever ! ” But away, spirit of the woods! Time urges; the world calls: and we are thrown once more into the midst of the stirring, rushing, unceasing stream of men. These woods and their fairy-land dreams are but our luxuries; snatches of beauty and peace caught as we go along the dusty path of duty. The town has engulphed us ; a human hum is in our ears; and the thoughts and the cares of life upon us once more.* a "The Rural I.ife of England," 1838. 252 tributes to Heabeg from b has been seen and taken many times in various parts of the district. I have one in my col¬ lection, a female, which was taken by a boy on the ground in Rise- brigg Lane, near Rufford, and a few years since sixteen or seventeen were seen within the course of a week at the end of Wellow Wood, but only three or four were taken. J. Trueman took several in the forest. The Marbled White (A. Galathea) e is an interesting insect, but very local. It has been captured not unfrequently with us, but it is by no means common. Of the genus Satyrus we have many species, of which I can enumerate the Wood Argus (Egeria), the Wall (Mcgara), the Grayling (Semelc), the Meadow Brown (Janira), the Large Heath (Tithonus), and the Ringlet (Hyperan- thus) ; of these Scmcle only occurs occasionally. The Small Ringlet (Davits) is also seen, but sparingly, while the Small Heath (Pam- philus) is abundant, as it is everywhere. Thecla. —Several species of this genus are frequently met with. J. Trueman has a memorandum of his capture of the Green Hair- streak (T. Rubi), d and I have once met with it myself. The Purple (T. Qucrcus) is common, and J. Trueman has taken the Brown (T. 8 Several specimens were taken in Notts in 1872.—R. E. B. 1 ) In 1859 a fine female was given to me ; it was taken sitting on a pig-sty, near Wellow Wood—R. E. B. c I have met with this insect at Warsop, near Mansfield, and at Kirton.—R. E. B. <1 In the years 1858-9-60 I took T. Rubi plentifully in the woods near Mansfield. R. E. B. $hct|woo At Clumber. c Some years, d Near Mansfield. f Near Mansfield. 288 ^bc Zoology of O. Pudibunda, r. O. Antiqua, c. P. Populi, r. E. Lanestris, c. B. Neustria, c. B. Rubi, r. B. Quercus, c. O. Potatoria, c. P. Falcula, oy. C. Spinula, c. D. Furcula, r. D. Vinula, c. P. Bucephala, c. N. Camelina, r. N. Dictsea, r. N. Dodonasa, r. D. Casruleocephala, c. O. Sambucata, c. E. Apiciaria,/. R. Crataegata, c. M. Margaritata, c. E. Fasciaria, r. E. Dolobraria, r. P. Syringaria, r. S. Illunaria, c. O. Bidentata, c. C. Elinguaria, c. E. Tiliaria, t. E. Angularia, t. P. Pilosaria, c. A. Betularia,/. H. Abruptaria,/. B. Repandata,/. B. Rhomboidaria,/. T. Crespuscularia, c. T. Punctulata, c. P. Cytisaria, c. G. Papilionaria, t. I. Lactearia, c. P. Bajularia,/. H. Thymiaria E. Punctaria, oy. E. Trilinearia, c. E. Omicronaria, c. E. Pendularia, t. A. Luteata, c. A. Candidata, c. A. Scutulata, c. A. Bisetata, c. A. Osseata, c. A. Virgilaria, c. A. Remutata, c. A. Imitaria, c. A. Aversata, c. A. Emarginata,/. T. Amataria, c. C. Pusaria, c. C. Exanthemata, c. C. Temerata, oy. M. Liturata, oy. H. Wavaria, c. P. Petraria, c. F. Atomaria, c. F. Piniaria, c. A. Strigillaria, oy. A. Grossulariata, c. A. Ulmata, c. L. Adustata, c. L. Marginata, c. H. Rupicapraria, c. H. Leucophearia,/. 0 H. Aurantiaria, oy. H. Progemmaria, c. H. Defoliaria, c. A. AJscularia, oy. C. Brumata, c. O. Dilutata, c. L. Pectinitaria, c. E. Alchemillata, r. E. Albulata, r. E. Decolorata, c. E. Venosata, r. E. Pulchellata, r. E. Centaureata, c. E. Succenturiata, t. E. Castigata, c. E. Indigata, c. E. Subnotata, oy. E. Vulgata, c. E. Absynthiata, t. E. Exiguata, c. E. Rectangulata, c. T. Variata, c. T. Firmata, r. Y. Elutata, c. M. Rubiginata, t. M. Ocellata, c. M. Albicillata, c. M. Rivata, r. M. Biriviata, c. M. Montanata, c. M. Fluctuata, c. A. Badiata, c. A. Derivata, c. C. Ferrugaria, c. C. Unidentaria, c. C. Quadrifasciata, r. C. Bilineata, c. P. Lignata, l. S. Dubitata, oy. S. Certata, r. a On oak trunks. $hcr t ujoo(l Jfoiiest. 289 S. Undulata, r. C. Miata,/. C. Corylata,/. C. Russata, c. C. Immanata, c. C. Suffumata, c. C. Silaceata, c. a C. Prunata, r. C. Testata, oy. C. Populata, c. b C. Fulvata, a. C. Pyraliata, c. C. Dotata, r. P. Comitata,/. E. Cervinaria,/. E. Mensuraria, c. E. Palumbaria, c. E. Bipunctaria, t. A. Plagiata, oy. C. Spartiata, c. C. Obliquaria,/. T. Chaarophyllata, c. T. Derasa,/. T. Batis,/. C. Diluta,/. B. Perla, c. A. Psi, c. A. Rumicis, oy. L. Conigera, oy. L. Lithargyria, c. L. Comma, c. L. Pallens, c. L. Impura, c. N. Fulva,/. N. Typhas,/. G. Flavago, l. H. Nictitans, c. H. Micacea, c. A. Putris, c. X. Rurea, c. X. Lithoxylea, c. X. Sublustris, r. X. Polyodon, a. X. Hepatica, c. X. Scolopacina, oy. N. Saponariae, oy. H. Popularis, c. C. Graminis, oy. C. Cytherea, c. L. Testacea, c. L. Cespitis, r. M. Anceps, c. M. Albicolon, r. M. Brassicae, a. M. Persicariae,/. A. Basilinea, c. A. Gemina, r. A. Unanimis, t. A. Fibrosa, oy. A. Oculea, a. M. Strigilis, a. M. Fasciuncula, c. M. Literosa, c. M. Furuncula, c. M. Arcuosa, c. G. Trilinea, c. C. Morpheus, c. C. Blanda,/. C. Cubicularis, c. R. Tenebrosa, c. A. Valligera, r. A. Suffusa,/. A. Saucia, r. A. Segetum, c. A. Exclamationis, c. A. Nigricans,/. A. Tritici, c. A. Porphyrea, oy. A. Obelisca, r. T. Janthina, c. T. Fimbria, oy. T. Interjecta,/. T. Orbona, c. T. Pronuba, a. N. Glareosa, t. N. Augur, c. N. Plecta, c. N. C-Nigrum, oy. N. Triangulum, oy. N. Brunnea, t. N. Festiva, c. N. Dahlii, l. N. Bella, c. N. Umbrosa, c. N. Baja, c. N. Xanthographa, a. T. Gothica, c. T. Leucographa, t. T. Rubricosa,/. T. Instabilis, c. T. Populeti, r. T. Stabilis, c. T. Gracilis,/. T. Miniosa, r. T. Munda, c. T. Cruda, c. O. Suspecta, r. O. Ypsilon,/. O. Lota,/. O. Macilenta,/. A. Rufina, oy. a But local. t> In Bilberry Woods. 21 290 tj5he Zoology of A. Pistacina, c. A. Lunosa, c. A. Litura, c. C. Vaccinii, c. C. Spadicea, c. S. Satellita, a. X. Cerago, oy. X. Silago, oy. X. Gilvago, r. X. Ferruginea, c. E. Fulvago, oy. C. Trapezina, c. C. Affinis, c. E. Ochroleuca, r. D. Capsincola,/. D. Cucubali, r. H. Serena, t. P. Chi, c. P. Flavocincta, r. E. Viminalis, r. M. Oxyacanthae, c. A. Aprilina, c. P. Meticulosa, c. E. Lucipara, oy. A. Herbida, r. A. Nebulosa, c. H. Adusta, t. H. Protea, c. H. Dentina, o. H. Suasa, r. H. Oleracea, c. H. Pisi, c. H. Thalassina, oy. H. Genistre, r. C. Exoleta, c. C. Verbasci, oy. C. Umbratica, c. a At sugar. H. Dipsacea, r. A. Myrtilli, c. H. Arbuti, oy. B. Parthenias, oy. A. Urticae, oy. A. Triplasia, oy. P. Chrysitis, c. P. Festucse, r. P. Iota, c. P. Pulchrina, oy. P. Gamma, a. G. Libatrix, c. A. Pyramidea, c. A. Tragopogonis, c. M. Typica, c. M. Maura,/. E. Mi, c. E. Glyphica, c. P. AJnea, oy. H. Proboscidalis, a. H. Barbalis, oy. H. Tarsipennalis, r. H. Grisealis, c. P. Farinalis, c. P. Glaucinalis, oy." A. Pinguinalis, v. c. P. Purpuralis, t. H. Cespitalis, oy. C. Lemnalis, c. H. Nymphaealis, c. H. Stagnalis, r. A. Niveosalis, r. B. Verticalis, a. B. Urticalis, a. E. Sambucalis, c. E. Crocealis, r. P. Forficalis, c. S. Lutealis, c. S. Olivalis, c. S. Prunalis, c. S. Hybridalis, oy. S. Fabriciana, a. C. Scintillulana,/. E. Cembrae, r. E. Ambigualis, c. E. Pyralella, c. E. Truncicolella, r. E. Mercurella, c. E. Lineola, r. A. Sociella, r. E. Ficella, r. b A. Consociella, r. A. Tumidella,/. M. Advenella, r. M. Pinguis, r. N. Roborella, oy. C. Pratellus, c. C. Pascuellus, oy. C. Hortuellus, c. C. Culmellus, c. C. Inquinatellus, c. c C. Tristellus, c. C. Pinitellus, c. C. Perlellus, c. C. Forficellus, c. A C. Prasinana, c. E. Ministrana, c. A. Betulastana, c. A. Ochroleucana,/. A. Cynosbatella,/. A. Pruniana, oy. T. Icterana, /. T. Viridana, a. T. Fosterana, c. '1 But local. 1' At sugar. c At Clumber. $hctiu?ood itfoijcst. 291 T. Heparana, c. T. Ribeana, oy. T. Corylana, c. L. Sorbiana, c. L. Musculana, c. L. Costana, l. L. Unifasciana, a. L. Fulvana, c. K L. Roborana, c. L. Xylosteana, c. L. Rosana, c. D. Augustiorana, r. P. Lecheana, oy. N. Udmanniana, oy. P. Tripunctana,/. S. Roborana,/. S. Trimaculana,/. L. Campoliliana, r. L. Penkleriana, c. P. Solandriana, oy. C. Scopoliana, oy. H. Bimaculana, oy. H. Brunnichiana, r. H. Scutulana, oy. D. Peteverella, c. C. Hyrciniana, c. C. Bilunana, r. H. Ocellana, c. H. Naevana, c. A. Lundana, t. B. Lanceolana, c. A. Conwayana, c. D. Loefiingiana, c. C. Bergmanniana, c. C. Forskaleana, c. C. Holmiana, c. P. Schalleriana, c. P. Comparana, c. P. Tristana, r. P. Favillaceana, r. P. Varigana, c. P. Ferrugana, c. T. Caudana,/. P. Profundana,/. P. Corticana, c. S. Spiniana, r. E. Nigrocostana, r. R. Pinivolana, oy. C. Pomonella, oy. G. Ulicetana, c. G. Hypericana, c. S. Ictericana, l. C. Hybridana, c. C. Subjectana, c. C. Virgaureana,/. E. Octomaculana,/. E. Striana,/. S. Urticana, c. L. Reliquana, r. P. Rugosana,/. A. Baumanniana, l. A. Badiana, c. L. Straminea, c. X. Hamana, c. X. Zoegana, c. T. Hyemana, c. C. Phryganella, c. C. Fagella, c. T. Tapetzella, c. T. Rusticella, c. T. Granella, c. T. Cloacella, c. T. Ruricolella, oy. T. Pallescentella, c. T. Lapella,/. T. Biselliella,/. T. Arcella, r. T. Fuscipunctella, r. T. Fulvimetrella, r. h T. Semifulvella, t. T. Muscatella, c. N. Swammerdam- mella, c. N. Schwarziella, c. A. Rufimitrella, r. A. Degeerella, /. A. Viridella, c. M. Calthella, r. M. Subpurpurella, c. S. Apicella, r. S. Pyrella, c. S. Cassiella, r. H. Plumbellus,/. H. Padellus, a. H. Evonymellus, c. P. Curtisellus, c. P. Cruciferarum, c. C. Sequella, r. C. Vitella, l. C. Costella, c. C. Xylostella, c. C. Radiatella, c. O. Sparganella, l. P. Quercana, v. c. D. Liturella, c. D. Arenella, c. D. Propinquella, oy. D. Alstroemeriana, oy. D. Hypericella, oy. D. Angelicella, r, D. Yeatiana, r. » At susar. At Clumber. 292 ^he Zoology of $ h e J] u? o o d o i] e $ t. D. Applana, c. D. Heracliana, oy. D. Costosa,/. G. Rufescens, r. G. Ericetella, c. G. Terrella, c. G. Luculella, r. G. Leucatella, r. G. Populella, /. G. Humeralis, r. G. Difflnis, c. G. Moufifetella, r. G. Desertella c. G. Gemmella, r. G. Naviferella, r. C. Hubnerella, r. S. Parenthesella, r. D. Sulphuralis,/. CE. Lambdella, oy. CE. Pseudo-Spretella, oy. E. Fenestrella, oy. G. Fuscoviridella, oy. A. Nitidella, c. A. Gcedartella,/. A. Semitestacella,/. A. Albistria, t. A. Semifusca,/. A. Mendica, r. G. Swederella,/. G. Syringella, oy. G. Elongella, r. O. Anglicella,/. O. Betuls,/. O. Avellanella, r. O. Torquillella, r. C. Albitarsella, r. C. Palliatella, r. C. Saturatella, oy. C. Lutipennella,/. C. Olivacella, r. C. Nigricella, r. C. Virgaureas, r. C. Coespititiella, c. E. Cerusella, r. E. Rufocinerea, c. E. Cygnipennella, c. E. Albifrontella, c. L. Pomifoliella, r. L. Messianiella, c. L. Cramerella, c. L. Alnifoliella, c. L. Quercifoliella, c. L. Faginella, r. L. Flavicaput,/. C. Plubnerella,/. C. Chcerophyllella, r. L. Clerckella, r. P. Trigonodactylus,/. P. Bipunctidactylus, t. P. Fuscodactylus, c. P. Lithodactylus, r. P. Pterodactylus, c. P. Osteodactylus, c. P. Tetradactylus, r. P. Pentadactylus, a. A. Polydactyla, a. Geological Section of the District of Worksop. CHAPTER XVII. I'Ije irnlngtj nf ijjBrtunirii hm\ mill \\)t IDistrirt. By C. Tylden-Wright, F.G.S. HE stratification of the neighbourhood of Worksop presents no striking features to a casual observer; in this respect, owing to the tender character of the upper beds, the contour of the country is in strong contrast to the steep escarpments of the mountain limestone district of Derbyshire and the high peaks of the millstone grit of Yorkshire. The average height of the forest lands above the sea is 150 feet, while the western escarpment nowhere exceeds 400 feet. But if it loses in picturesqueness it gains in utility, for we shall find when considering the beds in detail how rich the dis¬ trict is in mineral resources. We have here the vast mineral wealth of the coal measures covered with higher formations, some of which are inferior to none in agricultural value and which contain in regular sequence fine sand for the ironfounder and builder; limestone, said by Sir Gilbert Scott to be one of the best building stones in the kingdom ; numerous beds of brick earth; a band of ironstone of unusual rich¬ ness, though of very variable thickness; and lastly, below all in position, but above all in value, several seams of workable coal. 294 <|he (geology oi Those who have so long revelled in the wildness and solitude of old Sherwood—reduced in area but still unrivalled in this country—will think with regret of the change that must in the course of years come over such a scene when the old oaks will give place to the lofty chimney, the stag to the collier or mechanic, and the solitude will be broken by the engine’s throb: but such a day must come when the more accessible seams to the west of this district become exhausted. The Report of the Royal Commission on the dura¬ tion of our coal, published in 1871 shows that coal of a workable thickness and within the estimated work¬ able depth of 4,000 feet may extend as far east as Lincoln, and this view is borne out by the section attached to this chapter, which has been constructed from the strata passed through in the two deepest and most easterly shafts in the Midland Counties, and from the Government Geological Survey, which was carefully worked out in i860, by Mr. Talbot Aveline, to whom the author is indebted for much valuable information. We may therefore safely conclude that workable coal exists under the whole area represented by the map attached to this work. The physical features of the district are dependent on geological causes. They consist of two lines of hills, running nearly north and south, with steep escarpments towards the west, and sloping gently towards the east; the one from Maltby on the north through Harthill and Bolsover, the other from Tick- hill to the Worksop Manor Hills. These ridges are broken by various small streams, the Ryton, the Poulter, and the Meden, which flow from west to east and join the river Idle. The soil also varies with the stratification. Treating the beds in their order of superposition, we have— $hetp*>ootl Jfot|est. 295 Secondary Formation. Primary Formation. The Keuper occupies but a very small portion of the district. It consists of marls and sandstones. In the neighbourhood of Retford the marls are used for brickmaking, and a good section of the sand for¬ mation may be seen in a cutting of the Sheffield Railway, near the bridge under the Great North Road, at Retford. It dips gently towards the east, at an angle of 2° The Bunter, consisting of conglomerate and pebble beds, covers the largest area of this district. It pro¬ bably has no great thickness, but as it also dips gently towards the east, and the surface has nearly the same inclination, it covers a large extent of country. Good sections are rarely met with, owing to the softness of the formation, but one may be seen in the cutting at Sparken Hill, on the Worksop and Ollerton Road. The outcrop towards the west is usually bold, and the range of hills from Blyth to the Worksop Manor Hills is in this formation. The striking feature in it is the quartz pebbles, the debris of older rocks, which sometimes form a hard conglomerate, but generally lie loosely in the sand. They make an excellent material for roads. The soil is poor and dry ; but Sherwood Forest, the Parks of Clumber, Welbeck, and Thoresby are upon it, and the fine timber that lends such charms to these estates proves the wisdom of those noblemen who have made this district their home. New Red Sandstone. Permian. Keuper. Bunter, conglomerate and Pebble Beds. Upper Magnesian Limestone. Marls and Sandstones. Lower Magnesian Limestone. | Coal 1 Measures. Upper Measures. Lower Measures. 296 f?5he (peology of The Upper Magnesian Limestone formation does not exist in the southern part of this district, but is first met with at Gateford Hill as a small outlier. Proceeding northwards, it becomes a very important formation, till, in the neighbourhood of Tickhill, it has an outcrop two and a half miles wide on the line of dip. The bedding is much thinner and more jointed than the lower or main bed of limestone, hence the fossils, of which large numbers have been found at Gateford and Oldcoates, are difficult to distinguish. The Mytilus Hausmanii appears to be the most characteristic. It is burnt into lime about Tickhill, but the bedding is too thin for it to be used for build¬ ing purposes. The Permian Marls and Sandstones crop out to the surface on the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincoln¬ shire Railway between Worksop and Shireoaks. They consist of alternate beds of red marl (or strong clay) and sandstone, having at Shireoaks a total thickness of 46 feet. The marls are largely used for brick¬ making, the town of Worksop being built of bricks made from these beds. Thin streaks of white or pipe clay run through the marls, and irregular beds of gypsum, which were formerly worked, and manufac¬ tured into plaster of Paris, in a pit adjoinng the lane from Oldcoates to Firbeck. The lakes of Langold and Carlton Hall are in these marls. The Lower Magnesian Limestone formation is of great importance, and covers the whole of the western section of the accompanying map. On our line of section it extends from Shireoaks to Kiveton Park. At the former village it attains a thickness of 120 feet, dipping at an angle of 5 0 to the east. It varies considerably in composition. Near Mansfield on the south it appears as a calcareous sandstone, that is, it contains a large admixture of silica as the following analysis of the stone from Mr. Lindley’s quarries, $hei|wooj- v j- xvj. yj- Appendix. 333 It. payed to the glasyer for glasyng the west wyndow ........ It. payed to the glasyer for glasyng the south syde of the Church. It. payed for glasyng the north syde of the Church It. payed for glasyng the upper window in the south syde of the quere. £ s. d. xxxviij. xxviij. viij. vj. viij. XV. 1568-9. [Considerable quantities of stone, timber, and lead were sold in these years.] 1570. £ s. It. for ale and bread, & to workmen, at the takyng downe of the rode-lofte. ij. [An item appears in 1564 for taking down the rood-loft.] £ s. It. to the paynter for paynting the rode-lofte before it was takyn downe. It. rec d- of Mr. Vycar for tymber of the roode-lofte V J- VIIJ. viij. I 57 I - It. rec d- of Rychard hopkynson for a cope & a hand bell. xl. It. rec d- of Mr. Jessop for a lytell bell ; not solde, but layed to gage, and to be losed at the p’yish pleasure ........ xx. It. rec. of Mr. Bagley for a remnante of stone . x. It. to cressye for castyng down stone ... ij. iiij. It. to mychaell Hardye for makyng a creste for the roode-lofte. iij. ij. [No items appear from 1571 to 1577, in which latter year a new scribe was employed. Nothing worth notice in the year 1577, except that a great deal of “ ringing for the Queen’s Majestie,” seems to have been done.] £ s. d. Item, for the Revestrye window mending . . ij. Item, spent in ale at sundrye tymes, upon Garland and other the parishes frindes . . . xii. [In the year 1579 the church seems to have been painted and washed.] 1581. Item, by John Ashford, for the borde of Wm. Sam¬ son and his sonne, for the chasyng of the glass windows. xvi. iiij. Received by the Churchwardens of a Sesment made for glasir.g the Church windows . . xlj. iij. Item, for drinke at sundrye times, about ourbusines, by Xtofer Champen . ij. 334 Appendix. . I 5 S 5 - A list of “ The charitable contributions of the inhabitants [of Work¬ sop] to the Townes of East and West Retford, burnt w‘- fire.” 1588. By the vicar, for walling up the school house ende By Will m • Wharton, for three strikes of riddled lime By the same W'“- to warrington for walling . 1589. It. to the Comishionersforcappes at East Retford [?] 1590. It. to george Atkinson and John Jessopp for slating and mending of the steples .... 1591 - Item for an excommunication and absolution, through a citacion neglected & sitter & their charges ........ Item, payd at Retford about hattes and cappes [?] 1594 - Item to Warrington for poynting over ye register house, & ye store house, & other worke . Item, for ye Queene’s Ma ties - armes & the frame . 1596. Laid down by Christofer Carlile to the mending of the organes. & for sope to skoure pipes, quicke silver, sowther, glewe, (his owne labour excepted) & (birwages) I 597 - paid to olde berde for whipping of dogs Laid downe by the Church wardens, about mending of the Church Rooffe, both Timber, Lead, and workemanship, as followeth .... [Then follow the items, amounting to £5 2s. gd. to “ Lay extraordinarie ” was made.] 1601. for shifting of the stalles, and making of new £ s- d. stalles, and nayles to them .... vij. xj. for bordes ior stalles. for bordes for ye pulpit; & for nayles, hookes & mj. mj. bands, and other yron stuffe for ye belles 1603. It. payd to six virgns when the Queene’s ma tie- xxj. came to Worksop Manor .... [James the First’s wife on her way from Scotland.] iij. £ s. d. v. viij. xii. v. ij. xj. vij. iij. xij. iiij. viij. vj. vj. ij. viij. xij. ix. meet which a Appendix. 335 £ s. d. It. for ringing for ye King’s ma ,ie ' on St. James’ daye ........ x. vj. It. to John Simson for ye lending of black cotton at ye fast. ij. 1611. for takinge downe stone ov r- ye great church dore (to place a piece of wood) .... iiij. for Ashe setts & setting them in ye Church yard . xi. bestowed upo’ Mr. Porter, a minister, in ale . . viij. for two shirts for Tho. Davies’ boye ... ij. for two skins to make W m - Lee, cripple, a payre of hose ........ xxij. Receipts.—Item, for y e Ashe trees sold in ye Church yard. 4 13 4 1613. It. to Gregorie Lorence, a Grecian, w h- was tak"- prisoner by ye Turkes. xx. 1614. It. to W m- Bulmer for mending the fonte . . ix. Memorandm. yt ye Churchwardens sold unto Chr. Carlile, Clarke, [i.e. parish clerk,] ye old communion table, & ye frame, for writing ye Registr. over this year, & for washing Church Clothes, and for old reckonings due unto this present Easter, 1615. for repayring ye Church leades .... xliij. for repayring ye glass windowes, to Robt. Needham xlvij. for poynting ye Church & Steeples to George Legiet vj. viij. iiij. for an yron rayle & a staye, for ye pulpit, and nayles for a desk. iiij. for ringing on ye gunpowther days, and at ye king’s coming to Worksoppe, vij 5 ' .... xiij. for whipping dogges out of ye Church one whole year. ...... . . xij. 1617. for a quart of wine and sugar bestowed upo’ two preachers. x. [A very common item about this period.] 1618. for charges at London in writinge ov r - a supplica¬ tion y l - was delivered to y e Lo : chamberlayne & y e Earl of Arundell about y e towne’s busines ij. 1621. A list of “ The names of all such as willingly contributed to y e ' necessitye of the poore afflicted french people, collected within 33 6 Appendix. y e towne and parish of Worksoppe, in the Countye of Notting¬ ham, thexviij.daye of November, Anno Dni. 1621, as followeth.” [Then follows a page of names—the sum collected ,£4 4s. id.] 1626. [Considerable repairs and beautifying seem to have been done this year.] for beare to ye painter and his men when we bar¬ gained w th him for beawtifying ye church . xij. given him in earnest, & his charges the same day ij. iiij. payd to ye painter for beawtifying ye church . v. given to his men xij d - & in beare at their departing xij d- & for his horse grasse ij s- vj d . . . . iiij. vj. for cloth, & meale to paste ye King’s Armes, for a bord to nayle aloft upon it, for smoothing it & nayles. iij. iiij. [The royal arms which hung from the roof at the east end of the Church, bore date 1626.] 1628. [It appears that the church was broken into this year, arid the cloths belonging to the pulpit, &c., stolen.] 1629. [Nothing particular except an agreement between Thomas Bolles, of Osberton, Esquire, and the parishioners, about the repair of the chancel; from which it appears there had been “ certayne suits and controversies ” on the subject: it is also worthy of observation, that the part about the repair of which the differences had existed, is spoken of as “ that place which is used now as the queare of the parish Church of Worksoppe,” clearly implying that the memory of the original choir still existed.] 1633- £ s. d. ffor ringing three dayes when our Royall King came his p’grasse .110 [What an ebullition of loj'alty ! It seems from this that Charles the First passed through Worksop when on his journey to Scotland this year, with his court, to hold a parliament there, and receive coronation.] 1634. £ s. d. It. charges at Retford when we delivered o r- moneys ffor the repaire of St. Pawle’s Church . . .010 1637- P d - for Raylinge in the Communion Table, with other charges about the same. 3 6 8 Appendix. 337 P d- John Rogers 20 days & a half worke in the Church, at xij d- a daye.10 P lU John Rogers in earnest of o r bargain w ,h him for removeing the seates in the middle Alley, and takeing downe p te - of the lofte, w t- what wee spent of him, his servants, o r selves & other workmen . o 6 P d- John Rodgers for setting worke, as appeares by a p’ticular thereof, made under Mr. Bolles his owne Hande, sent to me . . . . . . 20 2 P J- Martin in p te . of his worke, upon Mr. Bolles his bill of p’ticulars made thereof.28 [For converting the open stalls into pews :—John Rogers’ bill this work is still extant.] 1639. Spent and given to ringers at y e Earle of Arundel’s coming by twice.o 10 [When going towards the north and returning, as general of army sent against the Scotch Covenanters.] £ s. Layed out for a cover for the font . . . .09 1640. ffor 11 fox heads. [An item continually occurring.] ffor killing two owles in the Church . 1641. ffor publishing peace, & to a messenger, & to ringers . [Peace with the Covenanters.] 1644. ffor a new bridge at the Canch. 1645. ffor the buriall of a souldjer. ffor the buriall of two more, slaine in the towne . ffor the burial of 3 sold, more, slaine in the towne ffor Ringing when his Ma tle- passed by ffor 2 bords for the South quire windowes o 11 o 1 ° 5 o 1 O 3 o 2 O 3 o 4 O I d. 6 8 6 o for 8 the d. o o o 4 o 6 6 1 o 2 Page 76 . 212Uorftsop jUflanot. During the time this volume has been passing through the press I obtained some of the original drawings of the architect of Worksop Manor, J. Paine. The intended south and west elevations and the ground plan I have had reduced by the Ilgliotype process. - 26 - 338 Appendix. The following are the references to ground plan :— South Side. A Covered Arcade ; B Vestibule ; C Circular Tribune ; D Egyptian Hall; E E Two State Apartment Ante-rooms, right and left of Vesti¬ bule ; F Dressing-room ; G State Bedroom, eight marble columns. West Side. H Dressing-room ; I I I Drawing-room ; K Ante-room ; L M N O State Apartments, intended to communicate with apartments marked P Q R S T U ; W Waiting room. C Principal Staircase, right-hand side of Circular Tribune, leading to chamber floor marked X, and Waiting room marked Y; Z 2 Z Bath, and two Dressing rooms. North Front. Returning to Vestibule from left, C Ante-chamber ; D Drawing-room ; E Dining-room ; F Staircase, back of Dining-room ; G Steward’s Dining Parlour, making a part of intended east side. H I K L M N O Apartments for visitors, together with sleeping apartments for ser¬ vants ; P Breakfast room; Q Billiard room. iSrrata. Page 30, 4th line from bottom, for “ Christ’s” read “ Christ.” Page 39, 8th line from top, for “ Richard Barnard ” read “Richard Bernard.” Page 57, top line, for “ Eborici” read “ Eboraci.” Page 106, 6th line from bottom, the Duke of Newcastle is stated to have been killed by a fall from his horse, at Welbeck ; in the Skeleton Pedigree he is stated to have been killed at Thoresby : the latter is the general account, but we incline to the former statement, which is given on the authority of a contemporary local newspaper, “ The Nottingham Post,” July 11— 18, 1711. Page 157, 8th line from top, for “ Horn ” read “ Holm.” Page 158, 5th and 6th lines from top, for “Meadows” read “ Medows.” Page 202, 13th line from bottom, for “ Serijlora ” read “ Sesifiora.” Page 217, 7th line from bottom, for “ inscsiption ” read “inscription.” Page 227, 15th line from top, for “inkeepers” read “innkeepers.” Page 319, 6th line from bottom, “ Bocomyccoc” read “ Bceotnycei.” Page 320, 17th line from top, “ V. epidermis ” read “ V. epiderdis.” „ „ 2nd line from bottom, for “ Verseolaria ” read “ Urceolaria .” „ „ bottom line, for “ scurposa ” read “ scruposa.” Page vi., 4th line from bottom, for “ North-West ” read “South-East.” A Acre, Siege of, 26. Ad Pontem, 180. Agnani, 25.' Alchill, 12, 92. Aldwark, 97, 99, 179. Alexander hi., Bull of,25. Alfreton, 95, 90. Alfreton’s, de, 90. Alveton Castle, 30. Augi, Countess of, 95. Anjou. Margaret of, 35. Annesley, 191, 229. ., New,*220. Anston, North, 156. Anston, South, 156. ,, Crags, 228. Appleyliead, 9G. Arches, William de, 108. Arnold Forest, 210. “ Art Union ,” 62 (n). Arundel, Earl of, 177. Arundelian Marbles, 78. Ashby-de-la-Zouch, 22.5 Askew, Anne, 88 . “ Autobiography of an Artizanf 258. Aveling’s “ Hist or u of Roche Abbey 136. Avesham, 101 . B Baccioclii, Felix, 113. Bailey's “ Annals of Nottinghamshire ,” 195 (n). Banks, Sir Joseph, 101. Banks, Joseph, 101. Barlborough, 88 , 89. „ Church, 32,33. Barley, Robert, 172. ,, James, 172. ,, (Derby), 172. Barrowby (Line.), 166. Barwick, Dr. P., 166. Basford, 210 , 229. Bassano's “ Church Notes," 32. Bassett, William of Blore, 139. Battersbie, Thomas, 66 . Bawtry, 59. Bayles, North and South, 199. Beauchief Abbey, 15, 31, 96, 100. Beech Tree, large, 80. Bentinck, Lady Isabella, 157. ,, William, 175. ,, Lord Edward, 179. Berry Hill, 185. Bessborough, Earl of, 180. Bess of Hardwick, 157, 165, 171, 178, 179, 180. “ Bibliotheca Topographica Brit.," 78(n). Bilby, 96, 100, (n). Binney, Mordecai, 72. Birkin, John de, 188. ,, Thomas de, 188. Birkland and Bilhagh, a Glance at, 243. Blackstone Haugh, 193. I Blidwortli, Parish Register of, 227, Blyth, 21. Bodleian Library, iv. Bolder, John, iii., 204 (n), 303. Bolingbroke, 32. Bollam, 24. Bolles, Lucy, 43 (n). ,, Thomas, 97. ,, Samuel, 97. „ William, 43 (n), 96, 103. Bolsover, 106, 138, 143 (n), 175. Bolton Priory, 329. Bonbusk, 210. Boot, W. H. J., iv. Booth, Robert, 138. I Bosquabell Forest, 203. Bothal and Bolsover, Baron of, 139. Boyle, Lady Charlotte, 167, 178. „ Richard, 178. Boyne's “ Tokens ,” 61 (n). i Bradheld, 29. „ Chapelry of, 27. Brameld, R. E., ii., 274, 287. ; Brancliffe, 133. j Brandon, Charles, 177. Bray 8 “ Tour," 83 (n). Bridlington, 50, 216. Brierley (Yorks), 167. Manor, 178, 179. British Museum, i., 204. British Archaeological Association, 127, 215 (n). 1 Briton, Gley de, 125. “ Brompton Stock,” 61. Bruce, Sir Robert, 156. Buck, S. and N., 78 (n). i Buckingham, Duke of, 35. Budby, 100 (n), 186, 194, 196, 228, 230. Bulwell, 195, 229. Burghley, Lord, 165. Burnet, Bishop, 155. Busli, Roger de, 12, 13,.92, 96, 102, 105. ; ,, Richard de, 132. Byron, Sir John, 216. I „ Lord, 213. 34° Index. c Caad waller, 180. Caldurcis, Sir William de, 96. Calveton Robert de, 215. Cambridge Countess of, 133. Camden’s “ Britannia ,” 61,202. ,, “ Remains ,” 83 (n). Canterbury, Archbishop of, 190. Carburton, 186, 194, 196. Carburton Storth, 196 (n). Carlton Hall, 71. Carrara, 112. 113. Cathedral, St. Paul’s, 149. Catterall, Ranulph, 138. Caschin, 58. Caux, Robert de, 187, 215. ,. Matilda de, 188. Cavendish (Suffolk), 173. „ Mary, 174. ,, Henry, 174, 175. ,, Baron, 106, 174. „ Henry, 106, 176. ,, Sir William, 106, 157, 173, 177. ,, Sir Charles, 138, 174. „ Margaret, 175. ,, Caroline, 180. Champion, Mr. W., 92. Charles I., 138, 139, 223. ,, at Retford, 65. ,, at Rufford, 213. ,, at Tuxford, 65. „ at Worksop, 65. ,, at Welbeck, 65, 139. “ Charta de Foresta,” 190. Chatsworth, 172,173, 174. Chattillon, 33. Chaucer, 152. Chaworth, 96. ,', Thomas de, 96. ,. Mary, 229. Chepeside (London), 205. Chesterfield, 125, 186, 1S8, 207 (n). ,, Earl of, 199. Chester, 132. „ Earl of, 184. „ Little (Derby), 186. Clarborough, 24. Clare, Earl of, 106, 107, 140, 175, 176. Clifford, Baroness, 178. ,, Henry, 133. ,, Thomas de, 133. Climpton, Roger, 109. Clinton (Oxon), 108. „ Henry, 107, 176 ,, Sir John de, 108. 109. ,, Sir Edward, 109. ,, Thomas Pelham, 107. ,, Henry Fiennes, 107. „ Geofirey de, 108. ,, Thomas de, 108. Clipsby, Frances, 45 n). Clipston, 196, 202, 223, 235. „ Palace, 213, 215. Clumber, 102, 103, 105, 175, 186, 194, 228. ,, Graunge, 103. ,, Lake, cost of, 110. „ Fountain at, 110. ,, Chapel at, 111. ,, Description of House, 112. ,, Statuary at, 112, 113, 114. ,, Funeral Cists at, 115, 116, 117. „ Catalogue of Pictures at 117-124. Clune, 186. Clutton, William, 201. Coigny, Due de, 158. Collins’ “ Historical Collections” 139(n). Colston, 24. Colwick, 216, 229. ,, “ Collectanea Curioso, ” 65. Combs, 185. Commissioners, Royal, 45. Conan, de Leon, 26. Contents, v. Conyngswath, 193. Cotton MS., 20. Cooper, E., “ Life ani Letters of Lady Arabella Stuart ,” 165 (n). Coritani, 185, 222. Cork, Earl of, 178. Cork & Burlington, Earl of, 167. Coventry, 35. „ Bishop of, 110. ,, Lord Thomas, 166. Cresswell Crags, Description of, by Dr. Spencer T. Hall, 128, 228. Criminage, 192. Cromwell, “ Declaration of His High¬ ness, ” quoted, 168. Cuckney, 223. ,, Manor of, 137. ,, Thomas de, 137, Cumberland, Earl of, 133. Cuthbert, St., 20. D Darcres, Thomas, Lord, 35, Damietta, Battle of, 27. Darfolds, 90 Darnley, Lord, 177. Delaney, Mrs., 76 (n). Deer, number of, 202. ,, Hunting, decline of, 212. Denaby, 125. Denbigh, Earl of, 157. Derby, All Saints' Church at, 174. ,, Earls of, 96. Derventio, 186. Deverux, Lady Frances, 177. Devonshire, Duchess of, 167. „ Earl of, 174. Index. 34i Devonshire, Dukes of, 140,173,176,178, 180. Dibdin, 170. Dieppe, 27. Digbton, Robert, 96, 10:3. Dimoek, liev. J. F., 42 (n). Dinsley (Herts.), 25. Dodsley, Robert, 223. Dodsworth, MS. notes of, 64, Dogmerfeld, William de, 93. Domesday Book, 102,103, 105,186, 195. Doncaster, Thomas, 164. Dorchester, Marquis of, 157. Doverbeck, 193, 194, 196. Dronfield, 93. Dugdale’s “ Monasticon," 25 (n), 28 fu), 34 (n, 37, 40, 81 (n), 103 (n). ,, “ Baronage" 31(n). Durham, Bishop of, 63. Dynham, Thomas, 96. E Earl's Bteigh, 194. Eccles (Lane.), 84. Ecclesfield, 22. Edensor (Derby), 174. Edward, I., 30, 53, 81, 92, 156,188, 193, 194, 195, 196, 202. „ II., 25, 30, 156. „ III., 30,109, 156, 196 mi, 215, 223. „ VI., 157. Edwinstowe, 186, 187,202,206,208 (n), 223, 230, ,, Petition for 200 oaks for repair of Church, 206. ,, Henry de, 215. ,, Robert de, 215. Egerton, Christopher Edward, 158. ,, Lord, 158. Egremont, Earl of, 62. Ellis, Henry, 82. Elsi, 12, 58. Elwine, 95. Emanuelle, Franzoni, 112. Essex, Earl of, 177. Etruria, Queen of, 113. Eu, Countess of, 95, 133. Eustachius, 36 (n). Evelyn’s “ Sylva ," 73, 81. Everingham, Adam de, 215. ,, Robert de, 188, 195, 196. Expeditation of Dogs, 191. Eyre, Anthony Haraolph, 151. ,, Robert, 93. ,, William, 93. „ Vincent, 85. F Fabric Rolls, of Volk Minster, 45(n). Famdon, 188. barn ham, Manor of, 35. Fasti Eboraci, 57. Fenton, Elizabeth, 101. Field, Matthew, 91, Fielding, Lady Mary, 157. Fine Rolls, 95(n), 188(n). Fire in Sherwood Forest, 204. Fishlake, 132. Fitz-Baldric Hugh, 137. ,, Peter Adam, 188. ,, Ralph Robert, 188. „ Stephen Ralph, 188. ,, Walter Robert, 18,26. ,, William Joan, 96. Flemangh, Joceus le, 137. Foley, late Lord, 77 (n). Foljambe, Mrs., 167. „ Cecil, G. S., ii. ,, ,, ,, on the Descent of the Nottingham¬ shire Dukeries,