DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ' ' •■' '• ■ I C- « *'K- i* ' -:^:iv:': ■■■A~.-.. V Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/lettersoftravel161holl ''■■ ,fV ‘35 .‘'* ' >kV' ■ikH ^%.:r. ■f,V •- ... ; ( * ./('■^ \Kn?' ■I''-''.; "asi- fi :S r.l Letters of Travel. ,s: »»> ■ ‘V -,'l : I Letters of Travel AROUND THE WORLD, WESTWARD: NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO, via PANAMA; SAND- WICH ISLANDS, SAMOA, NEW ZEALAND, TAS- MANIA, AUSTRALIA, MAHE, BOURBON, MAURITIUS, MADAGASCAR, SOUTH AFRICA, CAPE TOWN TO NEW YORK, VIA MADEIRA AND ENGLAND. Made in 1889-1890. SIXTH TOUR. BALTIMORE: PRINTED BY JOHN MURPHY & CO. SURPLUS 1 • nuPLICATE niDiivi H \_ PREFACE. In printing the Sixth Tour, it is proper for me to state in this Preface, as I did in those of the five I have already put in type, that it is not for the purpose of giving it publicity, but simply to gratify those to -whom the Letters were written, and for the entertainment of the friends, who take interest in my wanderings. FRED. W. M. HOLLIDAY. ■\ . i, • . 'i '.' '-1' V '-!:h Tm /v- ■'f^< • •• .' ; *v \ '•»i! CONTENTS. NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO, via PANAMA. LETTER I. 1889. Astor House, New York City, Friday, November 29, 1889; Do., Saturday, November 30; Do., Sunday, December 1 LETTER II. Steamer City of Para, Pacific Mail S. S. Line, Monday, December 2 ; same Ship, Tuesday, December 3 ; same Ship, Wednesday and Thursday, December 4 and 5 ; same Ship, Friday and Saturday, December 6 and 7; same Ship, Sun- day and Monday, December 8 and 9. LETTER III. Steamer San Blas, Panajia, Tuesday, December 10; same Ship, Wednesday, December 11 ; same Ship, Thursday, December 12; same Ship, Friday, December 13; same Ship, Saturday, December 14 LETTER IV. Steamer San Blas, La Libertad, San Salvador, Sunday, December 15; same Steamer, San Jose, Guatemala, Monday, December 16; same Steamer, Champerico, Guatemala, Tuesday, December 17 ; same Steamer, off Mexican Coast, Wednesday and Thursday, December 18 and T9 ; same Steamer, at Acapulco, Mexico, Friday, December 20; same Steamer, at Mansanillo, Mexico, Saturday and Sunday, December 21 and 22; same Steamer, AT San Blas, Mexico, Monday, December 23 ; same Steadier, at Mazatlan, Mexico, Tuesday, December 24 ; SAME Steamer, Gulf of California, Christmas, Wednes- day, December 25 ; same Steadier, off Lower California, Thursday and Friday, December 26 and 27 ; same Steamer, OFF Lower California and the State of California, Saturday and Sunday, December 28 and 29 ; SAME steamer, ON Coast of California, Monday, December 30 ; on same Steamer and at San Francisco, Tuesday, December 31. vii Page. 1-7 7-16 16-25 25-45 CONTENTS. viii SAN FRANCISCO. LETTER V. Page. 1890. San Francisco, California, Wednesday, January 1 ; Do., Thurs- day, January 2; Do., Friday, January 3; Do., Saturday, January 4 45-56 LETTER VI. San Francisco, Sunday, January 5; Do., Monday, January 6; Do., Tuesday, January 7 ; Do., Wednesday, January 8; Do., Thursday, January 9; Do., Friday, January 10 56-69 LETTER VII. San Francisco, Saturday, January 11 ; Do., Sunday, January 12; Do., Monday, January 13 69-84 SAN FRANCISCO TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. LETTER VIII. Steamship Alameda, Oceanic Line, Harbor of San Fran- cisco, Tuesday, January 14; ON same Steamer, San Francisco to Honolulu, Wedne.sday, Thursday, and Fri- day, January 15, 16, and 17 ; ON Same Ship and Ocean, Saturday, January 18 ; Do., Sunday, January 19; Do., Mon- day and Tuesday, January 20 and 21 84-93 HONOLULU, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, TO NEW ZEALAND. LETTER IX. On Steamship Alameda, at Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, Wednesday, January 22; on same Steamer, Pacific Ocean, from Hawaiian to Samoan Islands, Thursday and Friday, January 23 and 24; Do., Saturday and Sunday, January 25 and 26 ; Do., Monday, January 27 ; Do., Tues- day, January 28 LETTER X. On Steamship Alameda, Wednesday, January 29; Do., Thurs- day, Friday, vSaturday, and Sunday, January 30, 31, and ^ February 1 and 2; Do., Tuesday, February 4 ; Auckland, New Zealand, Wednesday, February 5; Do., Thursday, February 6 93-120 120-131 CONTENTS. IX NEW ZEALAND, AND TO AUSTRALIA, via TASMANIA —AUSTRALIA, LETTER XI. Page. 1890. Oxford, Friday, February 7 ; Ohinemutd, Saturday, February 8; Do., Sunday, February 9; Do., Monday, February 10; Waieakei, Tuesday, February 11 ; Tatjsso, Lake House, Wednesday, February 12; Do., Thursday, February 13; Tabaweea, Friday, February 14; Xapiee, Saturday, Feb- ruary 15 131-156 LETTER XII. Xapiee, Sunday, February 16; Wellington, Monday, February 17 ; Steamer Wakatipo, feom Wellington to Christ- church, Tuesday, February 18 ; Christchurch, Wednes- day, February 19 ; Do., Thursday, February 20 ; Do., Friday, February 21; Do., Saturday, February 22; Do., Sunday, February 23; Fairlie, Monday, February 24; Pukaki, Tuesday, February 25; The Hermitage, Mount Cook, Wednesday, February 26; Do., Thursday, February 27; Do., Friday, February 28; Do., Saturday, March 1; Do., Sunday, March 2 ; Pukaki, Monday, March 3 ; Lindis Hotel, near Lindis Pass, Tuesday March 4 ; Pembroke, Lake Wanaka, Wednesday, March 5 ; Do., Thursday, March 6; Do., Friday, March 7 ; Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu, Saturday, March 8 ; Do., Sunday, March 9 ; Kingston, at foot of Lake Wakatipu, Monday, March 10; Dunedin, Tuesday, March 11 ; Do., Wednesday, March 12; Do., Thursday, iVIarch 13; Do., Friday, March 14; Do., Saturday, March 15; Do., Sunday, March 16 156-213 LETTER XIII. Dunedin, Monday, March 17 ; Do., Tuesday, March 18 ; Do., Wednesday, March 19; Steamship Mararoa, from Dune- din TO Bluff, Thursday, March 20 ; Bluff, and on Ocean between Bluff and Hobart, Friday, March 21 ; ON Ocean between Bluff and Hobart, Saturday, March 22; Do., Sunday, March 23; on same Ocean, and at Hobart, Monday, March 24; Hobart, Tuesday, March 25; Launceston, Tasmania, Wednesday, March 26 ; from Launceston to Melbourne, and in Melbourne, Thurs- day and Friday, March 27 and 28 ; Melbourne, Australia, Saturday, March 29 ; Do., Sunday, March 30 ; Do., Monday, March 31; Do., Tuesday, April 1 ; Do., Wednesday, April 2; X CONTENTS. LETTER XIII — Continued. 1890. Lakes’ Enteance, Gippsland, Victoria, Mebrangbaue oe Roadknight’s Hotel, Thursday, April 3; Do., Friday, April 4; Do., Saturday, April 5; Bairnsdale, Gipps- land, Sunday, April 6; Melbourne, Monday, April 7; Do., Tuesday, April 8; Melbourne to Sydney, Syd- ney', New South Wales, Wednesday and Thursday, April 9 and 10; Do., Friday, April 11 ; Do., Saturday, April 12; Do., Sunday, April 13 Page. 213-280 AUSTRALIA CONTINUED— AUSTRALIA TO MAKE. LETTER XIV. Sy’dney, Australia, Monday, April 14; Do., Tuesday, April 16; Bathurst and Sydney, Wednesday and Thursday, April 16 and 17 ; Do., Friday and Saturday, April 18 and 19 ; Do., AND ON WAY' FROM SYDNEY TO BRISBANE BY EAIL, Sun- day, April 20; Sydney to Brisbane by Rail, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, April 20, 21, 22, 23, 24; Sydney, Friday, April 25 280-298 LETTER XV. Sydney', Friday, April 25; on board Steamer Australien, in Harbor of Sydney, Saturday, April 26; on same Steamer, between Sydney and Melbourne, Sunday, April 27 ; Do., Monday, April 28 ; Do., and at Melbourne, Tuesday, April 29 ; Do., and between Melbourne and Adelaide, Wednesday, April 30; Do., between Adel- aide AND King George Sound, Thursday and Friday, May 1 and 2 ; on same Steamer, Saturday and Sunday, May 3 and 4; on same Steamer, and at Albany', West Australia, Monday, May 5 ; on same Steamer, Indian Ocean, from Australia to the Sey'chelles, Tuesday, May 6; on same Steamer and Ocean, Wednesday, May 7 ; ON SAME Ocean and Steamer, Thursday, May 8 ; on same Do. and Do., Friday, May 9; on same Do. and Do., Saturday, May 10; ON same Do. and Do., Sunday, May 11 ; ON SAME Do. and Do., Monday, May 12; on same Do. and Do., Tuesday, May 13; on same Do. and Do., Wednesday, May 14; on same Do. and Do., Thursday, May 15; on SAME Do. AND Do., Friday, May 16; same Do. and Do., Saturday, May 17; same Do. and Do., Sunday, May 18; same Do. and Do., Monday, May 19 298-337 CONTENTS. XI MAKE TO NATAL, via BOURBON, MAURITIUS, AND MADAGASCAR. LETTER XVI. Page. 1890. At Mahe, one of the Seychelle Group, and the Indian Ocean, Steamship Rio Grande, Messageries Mari- TiMES Line, Tuesday, May 20; on same Sea and Ship, Wednesday, May 21 ; on Do. and Do., Thursday, May 22; ON SAME Do. and Do., and at the Island of Bourbon, Friday, May 23; on Do., and at the Island of Mau- ritius, Saturday, May 24 ; Island of Mauritius, Cure- pipe, Sunday, May 25 ; Do., Monday, May 26 ; Do., Port Louis, Tuesday, May 27; Do., Wednesday, May 28; Do., AND Steamship Dunrobin Castle, Donald Currie Line, Thursday, May 29; on same Steamer, Indian Ocean, . Friday, May 30 ; on Do., and at Tamatave, Madagascar, Saturday, May 31 ; Do., Sunday, June 1 ; on same Steam- ship AND Ocean, Monday and Tuesday, June 2 and 3; Do. AND Do., Wednesday, June 4; Do. and Do., Thursday, June 5; Do. and Do., Friday, June 6 337-384 SOUTH AFRICA. LETTER XVII. D’Urban, Natal, Saturday, June 7 ; Do., Sunday, June 8; Do., Monday, June 9; Pietermaritzburg, Tuesday, June 10; Do., Wednesday, June li ; Ladysmith, Natal, Thursday, June 12; D’Urban, Friday, June 13; Do., Saturday, June 14; Do., Sunday, June 15; Steamer Mexican, Union Steamship Line, from Natal to Port Elizabeth, ALONG South African Coast, Monday, June 16 ; Do., and AT East London, Tuesday, June 17 384-408 LETTER XVIII. Port Elizabeth, South Africa, Wednesday, June 18; Do., Thursday, June 19; Grahamstown, Friday, June 20; Port Elizabeth, Saturday, June 21 ; Do., Sunday, June 22 ; Do., AND ON TRAIN, FROM PoRT ELIZABETH TO KiMBERLEY, Monday, June 23 ; Kimberley, Griqua Land West, Tues- day, June 24; Do., Wednesday, June 25; Do., Thursday, June 26; Do., Friday, June 27; Do., Saturday, June 28; Do., Sunday, June 29 408-434 Xll CONTENTS. SOUTH AFRICA, CONTINUED— CAPE TOWN TO NEW YORK, via MADEIRA AND ENGLAND. LETTER XIX. Page. 1890. Kimberley, South Africa, Monday, June 30; on train from Kimberley to Care Town, and at Cape Town, Tuesday and Wednesday, July 1 and 2 ; Do., Thursday, July 3 ; Do., Friday, July 4; Do., Saturday, July 5; Do., Sunday, July 6; Do., Monday, July 7 ; Do., Tuesday, July 8 [Letters FROM Mr. Williams and Mr. Seymour, and Reports WITH Regard to Gold and Diamonds and their Min- ing] ; on Steamship Athenian, Union Line, Wednesday, July 9; ON same Steamer, Thursday, July 10; Do., Fri- day, .July 11; Do., Saturday, July 12 ; Do., Sunday, July 13 ; Do., Monday and Tuesday, .July 14 and 15; Do., Wednesday and Thursday, July 16 and 17 ; Do., Friday and Saturday, July 18 and 19 ; Do., Sunday and Monday, July 20 and 21 ; Do., Tuesday and Wednesday, July 22 and 23 ; Do., and at Madeira, on same Steamer, Thursday, J^Tiday, and Satur- day, July 24, 2-5, and 26; Do., Sunday, July 27 434-499 LETTER XX. London, England, Charing Cross Hotel, Monday, July 28 [Captain Bainbridge’s Letter] ; same City and Hotel, Tuesday, July 29; Do., Wednesday, July 30; Southamp- ton, England, Thursday, July 31 ; Do., Friday, August 1 ; Do., Saturday, August 2; on Steamer Werra, North German Lloyd Line, Sunday, August 3; Do., Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, August 4, 5, and 6; Do., Thurs- day, Friday, and Saturday, August 7, 8, and 9 ; Do., Sunday and Monday, August 10 and 11 ; Do., and New York City, Tuesday, August 12; New York City, Wednesday, August 13 499-527 Itinerary 529-532 Index, 533-549 LETTEKS. [No. 1.] Astor House, New York City, Friday, November 29, 1889. My Dear Taylor , — Let this Letter be the first Link in the chain, with which, in God’s good Providence, I propose to girdle the World. You know, I never start upon these long tours without great reluctance. Travel has not had the effect with me, usually urged as its result, of making me restless, and filling me with a longing for new fields to explore. Though, when upon the wing, every day and scene bring fresh pleasure, it is hard to break myself from home, to me the happiest place on earth. These thoughts I have had, and, doubtless, have expressed on previous Tours. Thus I felt when we parted at the Station yesterday ; I had much rather have gone back with you and settled down in quiet in the Old House, where, to us both, happy hours without number have been spent. Dr. Mason and Margaret were at the Station in Charlestowm to meet me, and the afternoon and evening were passed in talk, which never fails us when we get together. Mary and Little Mag were busy with a Fair the “King’s Daughters” were holding for the benefit of the children at their Poor-House, to make them comfortable, and throw cheer into their Christmas Time, when it comes ; and I don’t think the enjoyment to them in that blissful Season can be any greater than that which seemed to come to their friends in the making ready for it. 1 2 LETTER NO. 1. Margaret has, doubtless, written you our conclusion with regard to the Lot and the Hotel. I know of nothing our venerable place wants more than such an Institution, provided it is properly located and of suitable size and structure for the needs and demands of our town, and I know nothing wherein I can advance its material inter- ests more than in doing what I can to aid in its construction. This I am willing to do, both in suri’endering my objection to sell at any price the site, and to take much less than it is worth ; the purchasers themselves being judges. I trust this spirit and conclusion will be appreciated, and that success may crown the enterprise. This morning Margaret gave me a six o’clock Breakfast, and a good one, and I left Charlestown at the regular hour and came on to Baltimore. In that City I was detained an hour or two — till ten minutes of one — when I, taking the fast train at the same Station and occupying a chair in the Parlor Car, had a comfortable ride to this City, reaching here at six. I gave my Baggage check to the Express Agent and walked to the Hotel which heads this Letter. I, strange to say, met no acquaintances on the Road except Col. O’ Ferrell, from Winchester to Charlestown. I had much talk with a gentleman on the Train, who was just returning from the Pacific Coast, and I gave him my views with regard to the injection of Federal patronage and money into our State, attempting to manipu- late the negroes to the increasing of the Republican vote — greatly to the corruption of the negroes and their allies, and the detriment both of the Commonwealth and the Republic. To which things he had nothing to say — what member of the dominant Party ever has ? in a quiet talk like that. Whilst I was registering my name, a gentleman accosted me, introducing himself as Mr, Starke, from Richmond, We had much pleasant talk. He was on a visit to this City and was about to take the train homeward. Same Hotel and City, Saturday, November 30, 1889. This day, in its earlier hours, was spent in getting ready for my Tour. I first visited Brown Brothers & Co, and received my Letter of Credit. My friend Mr, Gillen, whom I always hitherto met on such occasions, I found was no longer connected with the Bank, but had NEW YORK CITY. 3 gone to live and engage in business in Denver, Colorado, I was introduced to the new Chief Officer, a Mr. Dieli, I think they spelled his name. Soon my affairs were adjusted satisfactorily. I went then to look after ray Berth on the Steamship City of Para, of the Pacific Mail S. S. Company, the Office of which is at the end of Canal Street on North River. I having plenty of time, walked there. The Agent, Mr. Bullay, with whom I had had some corres- pondence in connection with the choice of a State-room, received me most courteously and sent one of his men to show it to me. I found he had selected a Room upon the Upper Deck — usually regarded as one of the most desirable in the ship. But not being on the same Deck with the Saloon, I thought it would be undesirable for me in case of rough weather, going up and down a flight of steps to and from ray meals. The loss of my arm in a general way has never appeared to incommode me when I travel ; but I am always careful not to expose myself unnecessarily, for any injury to the other would compel me to give up the prosecution of my journey and submit my- self to be taken home. Mr. Bullay said he appreciated my carefulness; but his ability to provide for me was limited now, as the vessel would be crowded ; he, however, would do the best he could, and assigned me another Room on the Lower or Saloon Deck, The crowd, he feared, would render it impossible for him to give me the Room to myself — I would be compelled to occupy it with a companion. I saw and had it assigned to me, hoping no partner would appear. By this time the morning hours were consumed, and having arranged all my affairs, I determined to spend the afternoon at the Broadway Theatre in seeing Edwin Booth and Modjeska in Hamlet. You know it is on Broadway and 41st Street, a long way up, but not being hurried I walked it, enjoying, as is my wont, the people and the shop- windows. The Theatre is a very fine Auditorium, and the Drama was put superbly upon the boards, and a large assembly greeted the Actors. Modjeska did her part admirably, and her Ophelia-mad displayed high art. She is striking-looking now, and in her youth must have been handsome. Booth again disappointed me. This, you will recall, he has done before of late. Hamlet is a marvellous character, and tests the myriad powers of the Dramatist, till in the multitude of glorious things he makes Hamlet say, the world is left in doubt 4 LETTER NO. 1. whether he assumes, or, in “ wild frenzy,” wanders. Booth did not fill the conception either way. ‘ He wanted that subtle, quiet power which makes Hamlet stand out such a wonderful yet curious creation. Booth’s quiet was not strong. It was the quiet of a feeble, or languid or lazy man, rather than of a giant in restraint. I am afraid Booth is spoiled with the flattery he has received — if he ever had the power. His enunciation was so imperfect that, though I had a good seat, I scarce heard half he said, and had I not known the Drama well, it would often have been simple pantomime. When the performance was over, and I left the Theatre, towards dusk, the tlu’ongs which filled the Street, hurrying hither and thither, impressed me with the magnitude of the big Metropolis. ^ I came to the Hotel on street-car and did not again go out. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, December 1, 1889. This morning I took a Broadway street-car and went up to Fifty- fifth street and then walked across to Fifth Avenue, looking for Rev. Dr. John Hall’s Church. I found it on the corner of these two streets; but it being much before the hour of opening for the Morning Service, I walked on — not far away — to Central Park, and lingered there some time ; the day clear and delightful for walking ; better than yesterday, which was bleak and now and then spitting snow. I looked in upon the animals in the Park Menagerie, and then came back to the Church, by which time eleven o’clock had arrived — the hour of opening. Strangers are not seated until after the first Prayer : then the Pew- holders are supposed to have occupied their seats, and ushers politely fill the vacant places. I was shown one near the centre of the church, good both for seeing and hearing. The edifice is handsome, finished in oak : the Pulpit very spacious — above it the Organ, and a projecting Balcony where the Clerk stands and in old-fashioned style leads the singing, which is purely Congregational. The audi- ence looked solid and substantial, as if well fed upon the Catechism and Confession. It is said to be one of the richest Churches in New York. Dr. Hall is a burly, healthy looking, bald-headed man, and wears the black Gown when preaching. He is an Irishman, I hear, but looks more like a Scotchman. He has a slight accent, NEW YORK CITY. 5 which is Irish ; but the texture of his mind and his modes are Scotch — Scotch-Irish, doubtless. His Sermon — more of an address than sermon — was practical, in behalf of Home Missions, and hardly gave a full idea of his powers. I should, however, from his outgivings to-day, infer that he is a strong man. But he gave no evidence of Irish enthusiasm and eloquence — rather of Scotch intensity and force. The Church and its handsome architecture, and the large audience, from its evidently excellent acoustic properties within range of the speaker’s voice, ought to have stirred to fever heat, had there been any fire in his veins. There is nothing sensational about him ; nothing of the Beecher or Talmadge style ; but rather of the sober, solid kind, which lasts the longer, and in the lapse of years, does not so much amuse, as educate. One thing he said, in connection with his theme, which taught a Lesson he did not intend. He spoke of Syracuse, one of New York’s Cities, growing of late to a hundred thousand inhabitants, and mainly from the surrounding regions — people moving in from the country. In this movement at least fifty Churches were robbed of their membership and support, and from well-to-do and self-supporting organizations became reduced and poor, needing the help of the Home Missionary Cause. Independent of the Religious view of this ques- tion, how serious is its Political, to which the Preacher did not allude. It shows a decadence in the farming interests, and a change of pursuits and population from the Rural to the Metropolitan, which will have a most serious influence upon the future character of our people. The simple days and ways which made the glory of the Republic, as it did that of Ancient Rome, whence armies and their commanders came for defence against foreign foes, and for the con- quest of foreign peoples, will pass into a state in which force will be needed to keep the Peace among its own. This idea was strengthened when I recalled what I had seen in upper Broadway, and witnessed in Fifth Avenue and other parallel and cross streets in this part of the City : the vast number and mag- nificence of the Hotels and private residences gone and going up, and evidently increasing in number and splendor from year to year, showing how wealth, attracted thither from every part of the Conti- nent, is making Materialism triumphant. Yesterday, I saw the rest- less tide of a Cosmopolitan population ; to-day, when the Churches emptied their contents, I saw the ^lite in gay apparel — and how 6 LETTER NO. 1. gorgeous and bright they seemed ! — but not of the sort that “ consti- tute a State.” I walked down to Madison Square, and from Church went to see the Gallery, where The Angelus of Millet, the perfection of which in Art is estimated by a sale for more than one hundred thousand dollars ; and a collection of Barye’s works in Bronze — the latter I enjoyed exceedingly. I have often enjoyed many of his works before in the Corcoran Gallery in Washington, and wished I had some of them at home ; especially his subtle appreciation of the nature of Beasts, and his equally accurate and subtle knowledge of their structure, which he blends into a representation that appears the very consummation of Art. The Angelus I was not carried away with ; a projection of the power of Devotion : a rustic youth and maiden meet in rustic dress and style in the open field, — he standing with his hat in both his hands, she with hers clasped before her, a short distance from each other, both looking reverentially towards the ground; the Sun with exceeding beauty lights her brow and the distant sky, and reveals the strange radiance which, in the act of worship, blends their being into one. The figures are by no means beautiful ; but the lights and shadows are exquisite. It is a small picture, not more than two or three feet square, and I think the reflection of the one hundred thousand dollars or more has much to do with exciting the admiration of the world. If I have time to-morrow I will run up and see it again. Whilst looking at it, I felt a touch upon my shoulder; I turned, and it was Mrs. Kate Small. She called her husband and step- daughter and we had a pleasant meeting. Mr. Small and I had much chat. They are only on a short visit to the City. On my return to the Hotel, and whilst writing these lines. Gaunt Crebs, John Hummer’s son, sent up his card. I invited him to my Room and we had a good deal of talk. He is here on business in connection with the construction of a Rail Road in Tennessee, on which he is a Contractor. Tell John he is very well, and hopeful of coming profits. Charles’ Letter, with your endorsement, reached me safely to-day. Of course, though but a little while from home, I was glad to get it. I hope the subject-matter of which you write may turn out well, and you may be enabled to rent the entire building to your satisfaction. Be sure to tell me everything. NEW YORK CITY. 7 To Charles : Our Letters passed each other on the way. I wrote just before I left, and said then to you and all what I can say no better now. I cannot hear from you and my dear home people again till I reach San Francisco. I hope when I get there, your Letters, crossing the Continent by faster routes, will greet me like flights of Birds, bearing sweetest tidings. And now, Good Bye ! I will close this and mail it in the morn- ing. I will send you another Letter from Aspinwall, and again upon my arrival in San Francisco. But you all must keep writing every week to Care of Bank of California, in that City, and I will have a joyous time in reading them in bulk. Affectionately, F. Monday, December 2. — The day opens beautifully, and promises a prosperous voyage. The Ship leaves at twelve o’clock M. [No. 2.J Steamee City of Paea, Pacific Mail S. S. Line, Monday, December 2, 1889. My Dear Margaret , — I mailed at the Astor House in New York this morning Letter No. 1, to Taylor, just before my departure thence to take the Steamer City of Para, bound for Aspinwall or Colon. I had plenty of time. Getting a carriage, I drove to the Pier at the west end of Canal Street, and deposited my Baggage in the State- room that had been assigned me. Mr. Bullay said he had done his best to keep the Room for my sole occupancy : the crowd, however, was so great that he found it impossible, and was compelled to give me a mate ; but he was a nice fellow, an apothecary from Panama on his way home. I thanked him for his kindness, and told him I could fit myself to any condition ; and had long since found, that one’s comfort depends much upon himself and his detei’mination to 8 LETTER NO. 2. be agreeable and pleasant. Mr. Bullay introduced me to Captain Lockwood of the City of Para, who wished me a prosperous and happy voyage with him. Stowing my Baggage safely in my Room, I went up town to take another look at Barye’s Bronzes, and the famous Angelus of Millet. The Bronzes kejJt on exciting ray interest and admiration, in the manner and degree they have ever done since I first saw them in Corcoran’s Gallery. This Exhibition of the Art Association has for its object the building of Memorials to Barye and Alillet, both of whom passed away before their fame culminated in the marvellous manner in which it has of late years done : during their life selling their works for daily bread — now commanding prices which astound by their seeming extravagance. Barye’s works are collections from Private Galleries — principally W. T. Walters of Baltimore. The Angelus is owned by the American Art Association, bought at auction in Paris recently for one hundred and twenty thousand dollars, or there- abouts. On a hasty view, one might mistake the sentiment of the Picture. Without knowing the Artist’s design, it might be taken for another case of “Coming through the Rye!”; or, deeper still, the forecast of a future “John Anderson! my Joe!” But the idea is not of personal love, but of Religious Devotion. The youth and maiden are working in the field, and there comes to them the Angelus, the Vesper chime from the distant Church. They stop their labor and lay down the implements of toil, and the artist represents them in rustic style, and with bowed forms, in humblest devotion, recognizing the supremacy of the Call, whilst the setting Sun lights up especially the maiden’s face, with a radiance from above. The exceeding sim- plicity of the painting grows upon you. Yet, after this second view, it does not impress with the import of its fame; not like, for instance, the Sistine Madonna, which, in a crowded Gallery, would arrest the passer-by, whether simple or cultivated. T think this Angelas might be passed many times in such a place and not be observed. Excuse this rather long, but necessarily hasty story of my inter- view with The Angelus; I would not have bothered you with it at all save that it is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, painting of the century, in the estimate of many, who ought to know. When I returned to the Ship my room-mate had arrived. He saluted me with great politeness and courtesy : a small man of sandy STEAMER CITY OF PARA. 9 hair and ruddy complexion, with good features and expression, wear- ing a beaver hat like my own, and an overcoat, buttoned up. He said he lived in Panama, though a native of Texas, and promised to give me no trouble as a room-mate, save that he was a subject of sea-sickness, which he greatly regretted both on his own account and mine. I admit I was mighty sorry too in anticipation, especially as I could not pay him back in kind, not being subject to that affliction. I strolled out on Deck to observe the getting ready for departure, always an interesting sight when one of these big ships swings out from her moorings for a long voyage. On returning to my Room a strange individual occupied the apartment, seemingly fixing himself up. I did not recognize him at first, but when he saluted me in his usual cordial style, I saw it was my friend, the apothecary — Dr. Charles H. Utter, a card, which he handed me, signified — completely metamorphosed. His hair, hitherto pinned under his beaver, now flowed over his shoulders in ringlets, tastefully dressed, crowned by a Mexican sombrero, with cord and tassel. His shirt bosom of spot- less white was adorned with three immense Breastpins of precious stones — a crescent, a maltese cross, and a square — whilst his gold watchchaiu, set with jewels, hung across his waistcoat like a cable. No wonder I did not know my friend ; nor did I any more recognize his hands, now weighted with many rings, of Diamonds and Rubies and Pearls and such like — the girls would say, “ awful lovely.” I have in my travels had many room-mates, but none so imposing in his way as this. During the whole time, however, he has borne himself like a gentleman, and most agreeably. The day continued beautiful, and the Sea unruffled ; the great Vessel moving without a roll or tremor, quite remarkable for the Atlantic at this usually tempestuous season. Same Steamship, Ttiesday, December 3, 1889. The weather continues fine, and we have gone swiftly and smoothly on. Towards evening the waves made the Vessel a little unsteady — pleasant motion to me, provocative of unrest to many of the passen- gers, who lay about wounded, especially my Apothecary friend, whose anticipations were early realized. He soon fled to his berth, and therefrom never came any more during the day. His profession told somewhat, — only slightly, however, and the faintest odor of that 10 LETTER NO. 2. curious compound which belongs to the Apothecary shop was exhaled in our little apartment. My friend, unknown, of course, to himself, is a diminutive, but highly ornamented, “Shotekery Pop.” At Dinner to-day our seats were permanently assigned; mine I found to be the one of honor by the Captain’s side. When I was about to sit down, a gentleman opposite remarked, that he could not be mistaken, he had seen me in Lima, and that Mr. Neill, the Secretary of Legation to Peru, and I stopped at his Brewery on one occasion and we drank a glass of Beer together. I recognized Mr. Backus, and we had a cordial meeting. You will remember, Neill and I stopjjed there on our walk to the top of San Christ obal. Mr. Backus introduced me to a gentleman by his side — Mr. Thorndyke — whom I had never met before, but whom I knew all about iu Peruvian Railroad matters. You remember, when I arrived at Mollendo — pronounced Molyendo — Mr. Griffith met and took me to Mr. Thorn- dyke’s house — a beautiful home outlooking upon the Ocean ; and how, when I got to Arequipa, Mr. McCord, Mr. Thorndyke’s friend and Manager, conferred upon me many courtesies. Mr. Thorndyke was then in Europe ; but he heard of these things, and we at once knew each other. These two gentlemen are now returning from the States to Peru. We had much interesting talk about that most interesting, but un- happy, Country. They informed me that the contract of which I told you when there had been perfected ; and it was now for the future to decide whether that could lift Peru out of her many woes. I wrote you so much of this matter in the story of my last Tour I will say nothing more now. Walking the Deck this afternoon I met a Mr. John Tod, a Scotch- man, on his way to California, where he proposes to settle in the Napa or Russia River Valley, and engage iu some agricultural pursuit. Great Britain’s nursery is so full, that shaking it out continually, she fills the earth with her progeny. This is a sensible, well-mannered specimen, and we had a good deal of talk about his Empire and her affairs. Same Steamship, Wednesday and Thursday, December 4 and 5, 1889. These two days have passed pleasantly ; a North wind helped us, and we sped towards warmer skies and bluer waters. We passed Virginia and the Carolinas, and are abreast of Georgia ; to-morrow STEAMER CITY OF PARA. 11 we will pass the Tropic Line. Sensibly we feel the change of temperature now, from hour to hour. The canvass awning has been spread over the Deck, and in a little while we will be sorry it is not cooler. The Captain tells me he is a New York Democrat, and rejoices in our late victory, and is unstinted in his denunciation of the Repub- lican Party and its Leaders, and praises of our Southern People. He says we are growing stronger from year to year, and in a time not far distant, will again dominate, both by our genius, and fast- coming wealth. It is quite refreshing to listen to such talk from a Northern source. At my side at Table sits a Lady from New York City, and I am under the impression is a Mrs. Winter, the wife of Wm. Winter, one of the Editors of the Tribune. I tell my Captain-friend he must be careful how he talks in such a presence, lest he offend or wound ; but he simply says he would not, of course, wilfully do that — but, “them’s his sentiments.” He tells me Hal. Delaney was with him a short time ago, with a young friend, on their way to Bogota ; but they could not ascend the Magdalena River on account of the low stage of water and came back and took a French or English Steamer to Europe. I have had more talk with my Scotch friend. Tod. He lived eighteen months in Jamaica, and was not hopeful of the outcome there of the Negro question. He thinks they are retrograding, and will in time, when the white blood is clean gone or driven out, lapse into Barbarism. The Island — whose name means the Land of Fountains — of luxuriant productiveness and wealth and beauty — will not, cannot, lift the poor Negro up — but both ere long will recede to savagery. To-morrow we will be among the Bahamas, and will see the first Land which enraptured Columbus and his followers, and satisfied the hopes of the great Navigator, and calmed the apprehension of his comrades. Already the debris of the Sargasso Sea has been float- ing about us for many hours, — a phenomenon you will recall which aroused conflicting emotions in the minds of the adventurers. My Dr. Room-mate left his cot for the first time this afternoon, and appeared apparelled gorgeously. He has borne his sickness bravely, and has not for one moment been otherwise than agreeable and gentlemanly. He has not in any way marred my comfort. The 12 LETTER NO. S. “ Shotekery Pop ” fragrance has entirely departed, or my olfactories have adjusted themselves to it. I am only sony I cannot lend him my sea-stomach and legs. My intention was when I left, yon remember, to mail this in Colon. I learn now that if the weather permits we stop for mail at Fortune Island. If so, I will drop this there, that it may hurry back to you witli the news thus far. It will reach you two weeks sooner than from the Isthmus. I will mail you a Letter there also. I will stop now, till that information can be obtained. If the Vessel should not halt, I will continue this; if it should, and I can put it on the wing. Letter No. 3 will continue the story. I will any way conclude this now and wait. With teuderest love for all, F. On Steamship City of Paea, Friday and Saturday, December 6 cmd 7, 1889. From the paging, you perceive that I did not succeed in despatch- ing a Letter at Fortune Island. This, therefore, is a continuation of No. 2. It was in the afternoon of December 5 I ended that day’s doings and prepared it to await our coming to Fortune Island, giving it to the Purser to put off, should there be a landing there. When the Sun went down, I sat on Deck for several hours, and watched the doings of the Moon. The scene was worthy of my trouble. The sky was deep blue like the sea, and floating clouds swept over it, which the Moon, now near the full, made use of for her purposes, and right royal was her Dominion. Sometimes she lighted up the high and rugged banks of clouds till they looked like ranges of snow-clad mountains. Sometimes she threw these into the shade, converting them to wild forests and rocks, with here and there a fierce Castle, whilst the foothills of the elevations on which they stood seemed sheeted with fresh-fallen snow ; sometimes wiping all out she herself ruled supreme and ])aled the Ocean floor of her audi- ence chamber with pure beaten silver. I have seen Sunsets in the Tropics, of gorgeousness beyond the range of pen or pencil — one espe- cially of which I remember on my voyage to South America, and of STEAMER CITY OF PARA. 13 which I told yon something. This was the finest exhibition of the Moon’s powers I have ever seen. It was wonderful how much she accomplished with a single color. The Sun had at his command all the colors of the prism : the Moon made the glory with her silver rays alone, charming, like Paganini’s music, from a single string. The Ocean continues all one could wish — yesterday with white caps sparkling ujjon his deep blue surface — to-day no caps anywhere — his bosom simply heaving gently from the Ship as a centre, ofF with- out break to the distant sky — often in certain shades, the blue is changed to richest purple, and hither and thither the flying fish, like flocks of tiny birds, skim the waves from crest to crest. We seem to be, most of the time, so far from Land that few birds have come out to greet us. At one o’clock or thereabouts on Friday we passed the Tropic Line. Since then we have been entitled to torrid heats ; but they have not come. The temperature has been delicious, night and day. It is the Sun’s own home, but we fend his rays with the canvass awning ; and when he retires, and the Moon “ takes up the wondrous tale,” he leaves behind him no reminder of his fierceness ; all day and night, too, the Trade Winds come with cheering, healthful breath, and tell of their blessed provision in these spheres for keeping men alive and happy. We passed San Salvador during the forenoon of Friday also : but too far to be seen even with the glass ; and in the afternoon. Crooked, or Bird Rock Island, from one of whose points the Lighthouse stood out conspicuously, and at dusk came to Fortune Island, where we hoped to land our Letters. The Captain halted the Ship, and hoisted signals; but no boat come out — he thought, he told me, because the breakers were running too high along the shore; thus the pages already written will have to bide their time with these. These Islands, called the Bahamas, are low-lying, and English possessions. Of late years, an effort has been made to utilize them by the cultivation of the Aloe, for the manufacture of Sisal Hemp, a good deal about which I told you on my First Tour, in connection with my visit to Yucatan, of which Country it is the chief and most valuable production. Last night we passed Castle Island, when we were all abed. It is of little import and, therefore, not much was lost. During the night my Room-mate, who by this time has recovered his Sea-legs, and 14 LETTER NO. S. goes about regardless, came in after I had retired, and waking me up, said we had stopped — something had gone wrong with the machinery. It only disturbed me for a moment; I soon fell asleep again. In the morning the Captain informed me that it was of small concern, and only detained us a few hours. We sighted Cuba about ten o’clock this morning — Satui’day — and for four or five hours were approaching and passing its Eastern extremity — Cape Maysi. A fine view of the Antilles’ Queen was presented for many miles, stretching North-west to South-east. The Northern shore is flat, rising thence gradually — or in Mesas — to the summit of considerable hills, which seem to constitute the Island’s vertebrae. Cape Maysi projects itself like a point ; a portion of which is flat, and a portion high bluff or hill. The vertebrae, of which I have spoken, came down on the North more abruptly to the Sea. The whole is covered with vegetation, not cultivated, from its appearance, and few habitations visible, but of undergrowth, out of which larger trees frequently rise. The whole view, from its varied outline and verdant aspect, is one not unworthy of Cuba’s reputation. There was a Lighthouse, but no sign of habitations otherwise, and we made no halt. Santiago is on the South, but we did not sight it. Though traversing one of what might be called the Ocean’s thoroughfares, we have seen since we left New York only two Steamers and two sailing Vessels ; one of the former of this Line — the Newport — going Northward. The Captain tells me we will meet the Colon to-niglit ; the Steamer, you remember, I returned in from Aspinwall on my South American Tour, Towards Sundown we saw Hayti on our East, rising conspicuously, with greater elevations than those which Cuba showed. Same Ship, Sunday and Monday, December 8 and 9, 1889. On Sunday we had the reading of the Episcopal Service by the Surgeon of the Ship. A few attended in the Saloon. The eight or ten Catholic Priests we have on board seemed to go off together somewhere, and maybe had some kind of service. There is a Bishop among them, I hear ; none of them speak English, and my wish to talk upon the affairs of their church cannot be gratified. I regret STEAMER CITY OF PARA. 15 this, because I have many things concerning which I would like to make inquiry, about what I have observed of their church in different parts of the world. These two days have gone like the others, with suiToundings of perpetual peace and beauty. Surely no Ship ever made her Voyage along this whole line, from New York to Aspinwall, under happier auspices. Both the Atlantic and the Caribbean have behaved their best — the Sun helping by day and the Moon by night — the Trades never resting. I have made many acquaintances among the passen- gers, and have had many talks. Everyone, so far, is a Democrat, rejoicing in our late Victory with an enthusiasm equal to our own; and denouncing the Administration and its puppet in Virginia with a bitterness we would not desire to see surpassed. Among them is the Captain, with whom I have had much intercourse, and who never hesitates to give expression to his views in true sailor style. He has been very courteous and attentive to me, and says he will give me a Letter to the Captain of the Ship on the other side, that I may have a good Room assigned me, and have a pleasant and profitable voyage along the Coast to San Francisco. Whilst writing, one of the Catholic Priests has come and taken his seat by my side to use the ship’s inkstand in writing. He is the best looking of the set. I addressed him in English, to which he responded in the same. I thought the time had come I desired. He told me he was the recently appointed Bishop of San Salvador, and he and the other Priests were going there now to live. But my hopes were soon dissipated : I found he spoke English so imperfectly that no conversation could be carried on with him upon the subjects of which I wished to inquire. I will close this Letter now. We expect to reach Aspinwall to-morrow morning early — probably by daylight. I may be hurried then in getting ready to cross the Isthmus, and may have no time to spare to finish it. It will, therefore, be a long time before you hear again; for I shall not reach San Francisco till the first of January; and when I mail it, which I shall do immediately on my arrival there, it will take a week to travel to you across the Continent. But I hope many letters from you all will greet me in that City, gathered there, awaiting my advent. With tenderest love for all, F. 16 LETTER NO. 3. Give my love to Cousin Mary, and tell her to send me, if but a line, to ovei'take me in my wanderings. I suppose John Stephenson has done his work at the Farm, and will have done at Captain Huck’s, too, by the time this reaches you. He knows where I engaged the shingles, and not to forget to put the palings on the fence where broken, and to right up the Board fence opposite John Nulton’s. Tuesday . — Safe in Aspinwall. Leave on train to-day for Panama. Will give you particulars in my next. Must mail this now. Affectionately, F. [No. 3.] My Dear Mary , — S. S. San Blas, Panama, Tuesday, December 10, 1889. This morning I mailed through my friend Col. John Stuart, Agent of the Pacific Mail S. S, Company in Aspinwall, Letter No. 2, addressed to your Mother. You remember I met with this gentle- man a year ago on my way home from my South American Tour. His wife was then here recovering from an attack of fever ; she is now living in Denver with her son, not being able to stand this climate. He and the Agent of the Line in Panama, Captain John Dow, who was hei’e, said they had received notice of my coming, and tele- graphed to Panama to have the best quarters secured for me on this Ship — the San Bias, bound for San Francisco. How kind and con- siderate this ! Captain James L. Lockwood, of the City of Para, also said he would give me a Letter of Introduction to Captain Johnson of this Ship, that he might facilitate my voyage to San Francisco. But happily Captain Johnson came over to Aspinwall and visited the City of Para, and I then made his acquaintance through Captain Lockwood, and he promised to do everything in his power to advance ASPINWALL. 17 my profit and enjoyment; and to this time he has fully fulfilled his promise. Not leaving Aspinwall for Panama till the afternoon, I wandered about for several hours, keeping under my umbrella or on the shady side of the street to avoid the blazing Sun. W hen here before, you will recall. Col. Stuart drove me around, especially to the Beach, where Col. Rives’ residence is located, and various handsome sites. This time I went rather to the other end of the town — called the French portion, embowered in Cocoanut Palms and Bananas, and where De Lesseps built residences for himself and Son — quite hand- some and conspicuous affairs, constructed of wood, with verandas around the entire building — now never to be used by the unfortunate family. At the end of the Avenue which leads to them, stands a Bronze Group of Columbus and an Indian Girl, she in the crouching attitude of seeking his protection, given to Colon by the Empress Eugenie, when in the plentitude of her "wealth and power ; and a more wretched work of Art you would not wish to see. The Town consists mainly of one street, fronting the Ocean, with plank pavements and roadway. Groups of idle and ill-clad negroes are everywhei’e around, a not unfamiliar scene in other Countries you know of. The place had evidently improved of late years, from the new buildings and their style: but the collapse of the Canal Enterprise has called a halt in its growth, and, doubtless. Colon’s best days have been seen. At three o’clock p. m. the through passengers took train for Pan- ama — a goodly number. Again I was interested in the Canal Scheme; I will not repeat what I said in my former Tour. They wei’e then at work, but I told you they would very soon cease, and the enter- prise fall into ruin. That prediction was, a short time thereafter, verified. The same melancholy spectacle presented itself along the whole Line. Hundreds of houses of all sorts — enough to constitute a City in the aggregate, built for the residences of the operatives and other purposes — falling into rubbish, and machinery and implements of labor everywhere lost — indeed scarce anything to tell why they were there or how they had been used. I know of no enterprise of the present or past whose wreck appears so costly. I understand a Commission of the Creditors is on its way from France now, to determine what they will or can do about it. 2 18 LETTER NO. S. The Captain of the San Bias came along and was especially attentive. In Panama he saw me safely in the tug, which conveyed us from the Landing to the Steamer ; instructed the Purser to give me a choice room, and if possible, without a Room-mate. When we arrived, he went with me to the Room, and saw me safely quartered ; gave orders to his own Chinese servant — Wing — to wait upon my every want ; and to the Steward, to show me every attention ; intro- duced me to his First Officer, and gave him the same instructions, that my voyage to San Francisco might be all I could desire. Surely, you will say, I am a lucky traveller. In Panama, came the parting with some of my new-made friends. My Doctor Room-mate now left me — this being his home. He had on his jewels, and his bosom and fingers shone brilliantly, and his sombrero tassels topped his long-flowing ringlets with the abandon of Buffiilo Bill. He wanted me to get off and see him ; and on parting wished me all good things, which I returned in full measure. The poor fellow was sick nearly all the way from New York to Colon ; but when able to get out towards the latter part of the Voyage, he was gay, like a bird of brilliant plumage ought to be. He made a pleasant room-mate, ever courteous and gentlemanly. Here, too, I parted with Thorndike and Backus with much regret — they bound to their homes in Peru. I sent by them many kind words and remembrances to my friends in South America, from whom such numerous attentions had been received on my visit there. Mrs. Winter and her two children came along, and Mr. Tod, and many others whom I know, and have not had occasion to name. Things look favorable to my voyage along the Western Coast of the Nortliern Continent — a new scene in my travel experience. I forgot to say Captain Lockwood escorted me from the Ship to the train, and I promised to write to him on my return home, and tell him of the countries and sights I saw. We reached this good Ship about dark. She seems a stout, strong Vessel, but not equal in size and appointments to the City of Para. The latter’s name was not a pleasant reminder — were I superstitious: for in that City, I suffered the only sickness that ever affected me seriously on any of my travels. But had I been superstitious, none of them, you have seen, were realized. She is a Vessel of thirty-six hundred tons, finely built and appointed with an admirable manage- ment, and her splendid movements were continuously aided by STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS. 19 Nature’s kindliest smiles. This Ship — San Bias — is much smaller; about twenty-five hundred tons, and not nearly equal in finish and appointments ; but seems good and staunch. Thus end the first and second links in the chain of Travel. New York to Colon — nineteen hundred and seventy miles ; Colon to Panama — forty-eight. Same Steamship, Wednesday, December 11, 1889. Last night I found a sound night’s rest on board the San Bias. The heat was not unbearable, and a gentle breeze stirred the curtain of my cabin window, and kept the inside air alive. She swung at anchor about four miles out from Panama, and near by where I was a year ago, you remember, on the Chilian Steamer. All day was occupied in loading and unloading freight. Many of the passengers went in small Boats and spent the day in Panama. I had been there and seen all that j^lace has to show the stranger; and of this you have already heard. I, therefore, remained and amused myself in various ways ; talking to the Captain in his Office: reading and sitting on Deck under the awning, and enjoying the scene — by no means to be despised — the City in the distance : the vessels of various sizes, shapes and nationalities, anchored around : the Sea on which they floated shaded, according to depth, from deepest blue to lightest green, reflecting the blended shadows of ships and clouds : the encircling land, houses along the shore, workshops and habitations, receding into mountains of varied out- line, clad with dense foliage: nowand then opening into bights, through which Islands appeared in the distance, changing their green into softest purple hues. It cannot be said that the environ- ments of Panama are void of captivating beauties. AVhilst enjoying these scenes, a Tropic shower came along and dropped bucketsfull of water on them, and then passed as suddenly and carelessly as it came, leaving behind a Rainbow of brightest colors — too bright to contain all its glories, transferring a portion of them to its double. During the morning. Dr. Charles H. Williamson called to see me, and, also, the Surgeon of the Ship, a handsome German Gentleman, whose name I did not catch — will doubtless learn hereafter. Dr. Williamson is from Norfolk, — left the old Army, came to the Con- 20 LETTER NO. S. federacy and met the same fate that befell such numbers of his patri- otic confreres. For nineteen years he was in the employ of the Pacific Mail S. S. Company ; for the last three years he has been Surgeon of this Port, with a salary of thirty-six hundred dollars in gold a year. He is an old-time Virginia gentleman — knows all about me, and our relations were soon easy, like those of ancient friends. His family — Mrs. Williamson and two Daughters, one of whom is married — live in Brooklyn ; cannot stand this climate. The Doctor is hale and hearty — knows how to take care of himself. We talked of Virginia and her affairs, and you may he sure we had a good time together. T1 le Captain took me to his Bridge and told me I must look upon myself as the Ship’s Guest, and to resort there whenever I desired to read or view the waters and the Coast. This is a valuable privilege to the traveller on a coastwise voyage, and the courtesy I heartily appreciate. In the afternoon the Captain took me ashore in his Boat, to return the Doctor’s visit. They have grown into great friends, and, though differing in Politics — the Ca})tain being a Republican — there exists between them an excellent entente cordiale. Our visit was delightful. The Captain sympathizes enthusiastically in our Virginia Victory, and the great questions that confront us in our History coming up in our conversation, I felt an interest that thi’ew me into those high themes and regions, and loosed my tongue ; and they gave me heed, seeming not to have heard such talk before. Thus sped an hour or two in the Doctor’s cosy cottage, the windows and doors open, looking out upon the Sea. It was a nice visit and I regretfully bade my friend Good Bye ! When we got back to the Ship it was nearly dark. The hum and bang and rattle of the loading continued till ten o’clock, then the anchor was lifted, the whistle sounded, and we started on the third link of my long journey — meantime the Moon just tipping the hori- son, and the Sky ablaze with Stars. Same Steamship, Thursday, December 12, 1889. Another lovely day along the Coast. Early in the morning I accepted the Captain’s tender, and went to the Bridge, where I remained most of the day, watching the Scenery of Panama, which we skirted all the while. STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS. 21 Your map will show you we steamed directly across the Bay of Panama to Mariato Point, making the chord of the arc of the Western shore line — the land constantly in view, however, clothed heavily with vegetation, and rising into mountains of quite picturesque out- line — opening vistas, where the damp atmosphere or little showers, in the Sun’s rays had gathered now and then heaps of prismatic colors. No habitation was visible, nor a single cleared area; and I am told the whole region is the home of wild beasts ; and thus will doubtless remain, till, in the course of time, the hunter for the valuable hard woods, which grow there, comes along. The Captain kindly consulted me with regard to the seats at the table; he giving me that upon his right. I suggested Mrs. Winter, and a Mrs. Todd, from Brooklyn, with whom I often met in the S. S. City of Para, and Mr. Tod, from Scotland, whom you already know. You observe they spell their names ditferently ; which I told Mr. Tod he ought to explain to Mi’s. Todd, who was greatly offended, that such a liberty should be taken with the orthography of her’s, as to drop one of its letters. He said he would borrow that given by the Governor of one the States, who, when the single d was com- mented on in his name, replied that, inasmuch as God was satisfied with one in His, poor insignificant man ought not to complain. About four o’clock in the afternoon we turned Mariato Point, and by direct line steamed for Costa Eica, leaving Quibo Islands on our right, which came full in sight and disappeared about dusk. Soon only the thickly studded Sky, and the equally brilliant phosphoric Sea remained to us. Whilst enjoying these on Deck, the Ship’s Surgeon, Dr. Saint Leben, and I talked about Germany — his Native Land — her people and affairs. I spoke, among other things, of the contrast that appeared to me existed between the English and the German, the Anglo-Saxon and the Teuton : both of the same Eace, but diversely developed ; both of great capacity and intellectual power and culture ; both now widely scattered over the world ; and both centres of force, wherever they go. The German is a developed unit ; embracing in his culture the whole range of indi- vidual thought in its every department ; and in all lands to which he emigrates an agent of accumulation and growth; but never a Political factor — a power to rule — or become the founder of States. On the contrary, the English while, perhaps, not possessing this development in an equal degree, has that instinctively which the 22 LETTER NO. 3. German wants — the Genius to dominate by Governmental Forces^ and establish Centres of Empire. England’s Island position, and the Continental conditions of Germany’s Life have doubtless made this difference in their individualities and tendencies. England, in the progress of time, has accumulated vast wealth, seeking investment greater than any other Nationality — maybe, greater than all other Nationalities combined. Germany is poor, and her people, over- crowded in her country equally poor, go abroad with only their vigorous energies to obtain subsistence. The Englishman carries his wealth with him and, in a great measure, now relies upon it to work for him. Both have made all lands feel the impress of their presence. Still, the difference survives most strikingly wherever you find them. The one, only an Economic agent ; the other, a Political force. How long this will continue we cannot say. Will that strange power of domination, which distinguishes the Anglo-Saxon above all other peoples in modern times, and finds no pai’allel since Ancient Rome, remain with them, or will it be influenced by the effeminating effects of their vast wealth? Will the Germans ever acquire, with their great intellectual power and culture, the strange Genius, should the Britons lose it? The Germans have as yet manifested no ability to Colonize ; and when they go in throngs to other Countries, as to ours, they fill the land with the evidences of their industry, but never become a valuable or controlling influence in the Public Councils. With acquisitions and energy unparalleled, they signally everywhere manifest the absence of the ability to rule. This is conspicuous in the Countries of South America we lately visited, and those of Central America we are now passing. In the former, the Germans are everywhere working unflaggingly — far sur- passing the Ei;glish in their individual effort ; but no public enter- prise marks their presence in the Country — those are of Anglo-Saxon Genius and money. Nearly all on board, bound for the Central American States, are Germans — each individual to simply make a living or money for himself, with no ulterior object to build ,up or control the destinies of the Country. Were they Anglo-Saxons, you would hear of great designs to elevate the people or their Institutions, and to make them feel the impress of the British Realm or of the American Republic. And thus it is, and has been ever, in the story of these two great Peoples in their migrations over the World. STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS. 23 To these thoughts my German Doctor Friend could make no re- butting response — rather agreed in the diagnosis. On Same Ship, Friday, December 13, 1889. A Tropic down-pour entertained us for an hour or two this morning. It cooled the air, and during the day we felt no uncomfortable heat. I went to the Bridge again, and was there most of the time, look- ing around us. The Land we passed was that of Costa Rica — some- times near, sometimes remote. When near, it resembled, along the Coast, that of Panama — an impenetrable growth of living green, with the characteristics of which I have spoken in Panama. This, I recall, was called Costa Rica — “Rich Coast” — by Columbus, because he was told that wealth of Silver and Gold abounded there — almost the only wealth the greedy Spaniards looked for anywhere. This he found, as not unfrequently before, a sad misnomer. But the Country is a fine one, and is opening with promise, like most of these Central American States, under the advent of foreign wealth and energy. Much of the time the Shore line was far away and we could only see it like a rim upon the water. AVe made no stoppage anywhere. I returned the German Doctor’s visit at his Office, and we had another pleasant chat. He told me of his service on the Medical Staff of the German Army in the Franco-Prussian AAffir, and showed me the Badge he had won of the Legion of Honor of the Iron Cross, which he, with much pride, wore. It is of Iron, of the Maltese Pattern, the edges polished, the body of it the iron color. It is a handsome ornament, and the Doctor thinks it is in every way an honor to be worn. At Dinner, the Captain said he would wake us at the time when the Constellation of the Southern Cross was visible at its best in the Sky — which would be at the hour of four to five o’clock. Of course, I will turn out. Same Ship, Saturday, December 14, 1889. The Captain aroused me according to promise at half-past four o’clock, and again I saw the great Constellation of this Celestial Hemisphere — the Southern Cross. You know of it from my travels, 24 LETTER NO. 3. especially on my tour through Mexico, when I saw it for the first time in ascending from Vera Cruz to the plateau of Ana- huac. I have hitherto remarked, never since have I seen it so brilliant ; for never have I experienced such conditions of the atmosphere. This morning the sky and atmosphere at that early hour were good, and I enjoyed the interview with my ancient friend. Yet I am not carried away with the splendor of the group ; never have been to the extent I was in Mexico. It is not a perfect Cross, nor are the Stars of a magnitude worthy of its high-sounding name. I have amused myself with the crowded Heavens in manu- facturing several Crosses more imposing than the one which has taken to itself such abundance of comment and admiration. Last night and this morning a stiff breeze came off from the shore, which swept through the Ship and vivified the air, and made things fresh and cool. During the day we steamed Northwest along the Coast of Nicaragua — some distance off. You observe, this Country lies inside a line drawn from Costa Rica to San Salvadoi’ — in a kind of recess — and most of the time its shores could scarcely be observed. Towards Evening, however, from the Bridge, we saw a fine Volcano, about twenty miles in from Corinto, with fine Conical peak — a hand- some object in the Landscape — and the Sun closed the scene with quite a brilliant setting. To-morrow morning early, the Captain tells me, we will make La Libertad, the Port of San Salvador, the Capital of the Country of the same name. Now, since the Canal across the Isthmus has failed in the estimate of the world, the hopes of Nicaragua are aroused, and those in this country, who ought to know, think the Oceans will here be joined. Its resources far surpass those of the Isthmus, and the opening up of a splendid country, they say, awaits the Canal’s advent. The San Juan Riv'er — pronounced San Wan — affords one Link, Lake Nicaragua another, and a cut thence to the Pacific — only eleven miles — the third. The character of the soil through which that cut is projected, its advocates say, is favorable. Of my own knowledge and observation, I can write nothing. Maybe, the Oceans will be thus wedded. The Purser informs me that he can post this Letter in La Libertad to-morrow, and that it will thus, by the Vessels of this Line via Panama and Colon, reach New York by the 2nd of January. STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS—SAN SALVADOR. 25 Should I retain and finish it in San Francisco, ■which City we expect to reach by the first of that month, yon would not hear till seven or eight days later. I will, therefore, close this now, and trust it to the mail, being sure that it will give you pleasure to get one more Letter than you expected. You can, also, reply to me at San Francisco on its receipt. I might receive it before I leave — the 11th or 12th — for Aukland. Should I not, it could be forwarded thence by my Bankers. In haste for mail. With teuderest love for all, F. [No. 4.] On S. S. San Blas, La Libertad, San Salvador, Sunday, December 15, 1889. My Dear Taylor , — I posted to-day No. 3, addressed to Mary. I explain therein why I mailed it before my arrival in San Francisco. During the night we passed the Gulf of Fonseca, an inlet which belongs to Honduras, whose greatest bulk lies on the Caribbean Sea and abuts simply by this Gulf upon the Pacific. There is the small town of La Union on this recess, at which some of the Steamers of this Line make calls, but we go on to La Libertad, the Port of San Salvador, the Capital of the Country of the same name — distant from Panama, seven hundred and eighty-eight miles. San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Countries, and, your Map shows you, is situated altogether on the Pacific — being otherwise land-bound by Honduras and Guatemala. It is the only one of these Countries that does not open on both Seas. But whilst the smallest, it is relatively the richest and most populous — bearing in these respects the same relation to them, that Barbadoes does to her sister Antilles. But whilst small, it is big in its volcanic proportions, having not a few of them, which have manifested their fierceness even in late years, by the violence and destructiveness of their eruptions. San 26 LETTER NO. 4. Salvador, the Capital, has frequently been destroyed by them and by eartliqnakes. Such was its fate in 1854 and again in 1869; and again in 1873. Yet, subject to these frightful disasters, like Java, it is productive beyond most Countries — yielding Indigo, India Rubber, Sugar, Coffee, and Balsam, the last to such extent that its Pacific front has been called the Balsam Coast; and it is as beautiful as productive. It rises, like all the Central American States, from the shore line into elevated plateaus, which vary in climate according to elevation, containing delightful regions both in temperature and pro- duction. This morning we were greatly favored. The Sky and Sea and Land welcomed our advent to La Libertad. The Sun was rising, and clothed with brilliant colors the water, the clouds, and the moun- tains. These latter rose in varied outline from the shore — covered with vegetation, dominated now and then by Volcanoes of clean cut, conic-shape; and balmy breezes came to us from the Shore. La Libertad is only a small collection of Official Houses, whence a carriage road leads to San Salvador, sixty or seventy miles distant. The Commandants came off to us, anchored a mile or two out. There is an Iron Pier — but seemingly of little use, for our ship could not reach it. Here our Bishop and the Padres left us, and the sailors drew a long breath of relief, that the ominous Sky Pilots had gone. The Bishop was the most respectable man of his order I have seen in these Countries — well-behaved and intel- lectual looking. He spoke so little English, that I could gather nothing from him. I could see the place and surroundings from the Deck, and, there- fore, did not go ashore. I spend the day in reading, lounging, and looking ai’ound. We had no service on board. One of the Ladies seeing me upon the Bridge, wanted — woman- like — to go there, too, and asked the Captain at Dinner to allow her; which request he evaded by telling her to read the Ship’s regulations posted up in her State-Room forbidding it. I told the Captain afterwards, I feared, when he tendered me the privilege, some such trouble; therefore, he would remember, was loth to accept it, and if it embarrassed him, I would not go again. He said it did not trouble him at all ; he wanted me to come, and would be annoyed rather if I did not. Because he wanted me was no reason for his allowing others there ; and he was not bothered with their requests. STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS— GUATEMALA. 27 When the Priests got off others got on, and the Purser told me he was straightened for room. I told him to put some one in with me. He said he would not, and nothing but the greatest necessity would make him thus interfere with my comfort. He hoped I could have it to myself till our arrival in San Francisco. Towards dark, we got under way again. When the night came on, we had a brilliant view of Mount Izalco — six thousand, three hundred and eighty feet high, the fire blazing from its lofty summit : sometimes like a huge torch — sometimes like a Star. This continued for hours. We were distant from it eighty or one hundred miles. We passed the lights upon the shore of Acajutla — pronounced Acahutla — another Port of the Capital, between which places there is, also, a carriage way. On Same Steamer, and San Jos£, Guatemala, Monday, December 16, 1889. We came to San Jose, Guatemala, — pronounced San Hosae — ninety-three miles — at an early hour this morning. It is a line of Official Houses along the Shore — nothing more. Behind it a few native thatch-covered huts constitute the Port of Guatemala, the Capital of the Country of that name. The Shore is low and its wliole length covered with vegetation, the Sands which bound it white with the surf of the incoming Ocean. An Iron Pier extends for half a mile into the Sea. The Ship floats, several miles away, out in the open Roadstead. Behind, some distance inland, stretches a fine background of lofty volcanic Moun- taiusj some with beautiful pyramidal Peaks. Two especially con- spicuous : Mount Agua — Water, it signifies — twelve thousand, three hundred and thirty-four feet in height; and Mount Fuego — which signifies Fire — twelve thousand, six hundred and three feet in altitude, standing like huge sentinels North and South of the town, and brilliant ornaments and landmarks in the scene. Just behind Fuego rises Acatenango, so near as to apparently be a twin Peak — twelve thousand, eight hundred and ninety feet in height. In the Range there are other fine elevations ; but I will not stop to name them. The whole affording a spectacle worth the traveller’s time and trouble to look at. 28 LETTER NO. 4. There is a Railroad from San Jose to the City of Guatemala — ninety miles — reaching an elevation of five or six thousand feet. In talking to those on board, who live in Guatemala, they speak in quite glowing terms of the beauties of the scene along the ascending Rail — the variety and richness of the productions, and of the growth, prosperity and delightful Climate of the City upou its lofty site. I would run up and see it, could I return in time for the Steamer ; but there is only one train a day, and the trip cannot be accomplished without losing my connections. The chief complaint, I gather, is the want of labor, and the diffi- culty of its organization ; — the crying need of the Country, in the mind of those who hope for its growth and development. The Natives don’t want to work; Nature, with profuse prodigality, works for them, and they hate the foreigner who comes with designs to make them help. This interesting Road was built by the means and enterprise of C. P. Huntingdon and other California and New Yoi’k Capitalists. Another item to be considered in my comment on the distinguishing traits of the Teuton and the Anglo-Saxon; for the persons on board, bound for Guatemala to live, are Germans, almost without exception. But, though vigorous men and women, too, they are going to make money or a livelihood by the cultivation of Indigo, Sugar, Cacao, Coffee, especially the last, but probably never to be heard of in those great enterprises which tell upon the Country’s political destiny or elevation in the scale of civilized nationalities. A few from curiosity went ashore in the Launch ; but I thought the remuneration would not repay the cost. You had to be let down in a Basket-chair from the Steamer’s high Deck and lifted up in the same way again to the equally high Pier ; and, after all, there was nothing that could not be better seen from our comfortable Seats upou the Ship. Then, too, the heat of the Sun is not to be despised upon the low shore. Since we hav^e been in these Latitudes, at morn- ing and evening, and not unfrequently during the day, delicious breezes have tempered the Sun, writing its range on the Thermometer at 88° or 89°. The temperature has never been intolerable. Sometimes the air is lulled, and swinging at anchor, we feel the heat blazing from a cloudless sky — but most frequently we have a breeze, and, lying all day, waiting the coming and going of freight and passengers, in listless mood or reading or thinking or looking, time does not lag too STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS— GUATEMALA. 29 heavily. Thus we were all day at La Libertad and at San Jose, and will be at Champerico to-morrow. On Same Steamer, AND AT Champerico, Guatemala, Tuesday, December 17, 1889. All day at Champerico — seventy-six miles from San Jose — from daylight till five o’clock in the afternoon, loading and unloading. At midday the Sun was warm, and the wind lulling, made the tem- perature somewhat oppressive at that hour. The little town is much like those of which I have spoken : its Official Houses on the Shore — a long high Iron Pier extending into the Sea — the white surf lapping the Sands as far as the eye can reach on either side for miles — a few thatch-covered huts among the trees, which cover the lowlands and reach up the flanks of the Mountains that tower behind, with a flne range of clean-cut, lofty, volcanic Peaks. From this place a Railroad — about twenty-eight miles in length — penetrates and ascends the highlands, making its way, also, to the Capital and not yet finished. Between twenty and thirty of our passengers here left us — mostly Germans — come to live and work in the country. Many of them have been residents for some years, are now returning with their wives and children from a visit to Fatherland. They have all good words to say for Guatemala; how it rises from coast to mountain top, sweeping the range of the climate production of the Zones — like Mexico, from Vera Cruz to the City, which captivated the Con- quistadores, and has been a charm to all subsequent travellers — the Tierra Caliente, Templada and Fria — how beautiful is the Scenery, how varied and exquisite are the Flowers and Birds, tempting one to stop off and see for one’s self. They are generally not only satisfied with the present, but hopeful for the future; they think the Government will improve, not only giving greater protection to person and property, but stimulating to greater effort and enterprise. New lands lately opened to culture, yield immensely, and are free from the insect-enemies which have assailed older countries. Chiefly is this true of Coffee, at present the most profitable production of Guatemala. The enemies which have swept the fields of the Orient, and more lately of South America, have 30 LETTER NO. 4. put in as yet no appearance here. More enthusiastic Immigrants I have never seen. With their departure, we who left New York on the through passage are left almost alone. But we are more quiet, less crowded, and none the worse for that. At five o’clock we pulled up, and steamed on for Acapulco — distant four hundred and eighty-five miles. Soon the shore line of Central America was passed and that of Mexico appeared — much of the same character — bounding our Eastern Sky. On Same Steamer, OFF Mexican Coast, Wednesday and Thursday, December 18 and 19, 1889. During these two days we have been coasting Mexico — mainly over the Gulf of Tehuantepec; your Map will show you that it makes a considerable arc of depression in the Shore Line. In the morning of Wednesday, and early, a gale came off from Land, similar to those I have spoken of on the Central American Coast — save stiffer now than then — moving the Ocean into white caps, and whistling about the smoke stack and the rio-o-ino;. Without this breeze, it would have been very hot ; with it, the temperature was delightful, and I sat on Deck and enjoyed it, whilst I read, and talked, and lounged. The Mountains at first were more massive; as we advanced, they let down, forming the low ground of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec — one hundred and seventy miles in width, across whicli, it has l>een proposed, you know, to unite the Oceans. The sinking of the Mountain Range is very perceptible from the Ship. The Captain sent for me to come to the Bridge, that I might witness the Scene. He never seems to weary of showing me attention, and trying to make my time pleasant and profitable. Our talks assume a wide range — not only the things around us, but the memories of our late sectional troubles. He is a Republican ; but has no tolerance for those of the stalwart kind. He rejoices over our Virginia Vic- tory, and loves to talk of our Southern great leaders, and how they will be one day recognized as among those who are to represent the United States in History. He spoke of Governor Beaver and his STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS— MEXICAN COAST. 31 folly in objecting to the erection of any Southern Memorials at Gettysburg, and what an opportunity he had lost; and of many other men and things I have not time to name. We talked of this strange wind, coming like a gale from Land, seemingly in conflict with what it ought to be. I thought it came from the Gulf — the Northers seeking that body of water and finding a vacuum over the heated surface of Tehuantepec, rushed there to fill it, and thence by their own momentum to the Sea. This seems a reasonable solution of the phenomenon. Lower down over the narrower bounds of Central America, the Trades help to make the currents of similar character we noticed there. The Mexican Mountains form a Range of varying height and quality, from one to ten thousand feet in height ; and, though mainly covered wdth vegetation, sometimes bleak and barren. Now and then the Shore Line spreads out into Laguues, presenting an inhospitable look — generally covered with forests, seemingly in the distance of fine timber import. Captain William H. Parker, a Cousin of our Judge’s, once com- manded a Ship of this Line along this beat, and wrote a Book for Navigators, which my Caifiain speaks very highly of: says he is a man of fine talents, and was so recognized in the old Navy, and subsequently when in service here. You remember, he resigned and came South, and after the war was the Head of the Maryland Agricultural College for a while, and later still Minister to Corea. My German Doctor Friend and I have many talks. He was a Surgeon in the Franco-Prussian War, and tells me interesting stories of his experience. He has, too, been much of a traveller ; we talk about Africa, where he has wandered. All day Thursday we steamed over a lovely Sea and with lovely weather. The conditions which produce the gales have gone, and simply gentle breezes, mainly produced by the motion of the Ship, attend us ; and the Mountains afford us entertainment with their varied outlines and ever shifting lights and shades — though the Thermometer tells of 88°. To-morrow morning early we will be in Acapulco. 32 LETTER NO. On Same Steamer, AT Acapulco, Mexico, Friday, December 20, 1889. We arrived in Acapulco at daylight. I was up early to see the entrance. It is hid away from the Ocean in a land-locked Harbor, and you might well steam by without knowing it, secreted behind what seems to be a simple Inlet of the Sea. The Harbor is small, but a perfect shelter, not unlike a Canteen, the mouth resembling its opening to the Ocean. Quite high mountains greet you along the Shore, both North and South, in your approach, and likewise com- pose the Harbor’s rim. The Fort, an old Spanish affair, crowns a truncated mountain and commands the Inlet. Farther in, a quarter of a mile probably, sits the ancient town upon the Shore, its suburbs and a portion of itself running up the heights. On either side are groves of Cocoanut Palms, and between the town and the elevation are numbers of large, wide-spreading and handsome trees, of Tropic growth, whose branches form a splendid Crown, and whose trunks are not unlike the India Rubber tree, buttressed by huge flanges. I understand it is a species of India Rubber. The Cathedral lifts its plain whitewashed tower in the centre of the town ; and near by — conspicuously showing — a long one story verandaed structure, containing the Public Offices. A short Pier extends into the Harbor ; but our Ship was anchored some distance out, and near its middle. The morning was very warm, and the confined area where we rested seemed from our position a completely land-locked basin with lofty rims. The Breezes from the Ocean could not reach us, and the Sun shining from a cloudless sky, seemed rejoicing in his strength. The mountain sides were a relief — for they were covered with vege- tation, absorbing instead of reflecting the Sun’s fierce rays. These surroundings, whilst making the Harbor famous, as one of the finest on the Coast, have given the town the reputation of being one of the hottest and most unhealthy. Shut in, the health-bearing breezes of the outer world do not come, and the noxious airs stay to help the growth of pestilence. The town is very ancient, but not large. It claims four thousand people ; but no booms come nigh to stimulate it into even temporary action. Railroads are promised, to ACAPULCO. 33 connect it with the system which has rejuvenated the parent country ; but they are very slow a-coraing. They have to cross the great mountain trend with zigzag or with tunnel, and no resources promise sufficient returns for the outlay. I fear Acapulco’s Harbor will continue simply to boast of its perfection. A party was made up to go ashore and spy out the place. We selected an excellent Boat and started so soon as the Commandante and Officers of the Port had given us a clean Bill of Health and cleared the way. Captain and Mrs. Helmicks and Captain Benjamin — U. S. Officers — Mr. and Mrs. Southgate, of Worcester, Mass., Miss McElheny and her Brother, and Miss Sherk, from Philadelphia, Mr. Tod, a young Scotchman, constituted the party. We pretty thoroughly traversed the town — visiting the Fort, where we were politely I’eceived by the Officers and allowed to walk through. From its Battlements we had a fine view of the Harbor and surroundings, and saw how Nature had hedged it in. The Fortifications amounted to about ten minutes pounding with one good gun ; the soldiers to the same. We visited the Cathedral — an exceedingly humble affair — and some of the stores, to look at the Curios. I bought a couple of strands of shells for you and Margaret, as something characteristic of the place. I could not find a Silversmith’s Shop in the town to get a piece for your Set. We wandered to the suburbs and among the humbler people and saw them in their habitations and at their work. They were generally not a bad lot ; the young and the children, are many of them inter- esting and good-looking, before the hardships of life have wiped out all the lines of beauty. Here and there about the streets were gambling tables — the Mexican’s necessity and bane — not infrequently conducted by girls, whose anxious faces indicated their absorption in the game. Cocks — plucky looking — like those I saw in Tacubaya on my First Tour, were fastened by the leg upon the Street, offering a Pit to any ambitious passer-by. But no where did I see drunkenness, though saloons abounded. And to my surprise I saw few beggars. Vfe visited our Consul, Mr. Robert W. Laughery, from Texas. He is an old man, though spry and active, was appointed by Cleve- land — now holding over; probably nobody wants his place. He was very polite, though having two or three with me, I did not feel proud of him as the representative of a Southern State. He said he did not want to see any of his Northern fellow-citizens ; they came down 3 34 LETTER NO. there and associated with the negroes, played cards and drank with them, and he was not inclined to think them any good, any way. I rather think the old fellow was a local politician — Editor, maybe, on the frontier. My Doctor-Friend invited me to his Room to give me a glass of Cocoa milk of the young nut. It was the color of water, and a delicious beverage. This, doubtless, I have told you of before on my Tropical travels. The Captain during the day introduced me to General Lopetega, the Commander of the forces of the Mexican Pacific Coast — a fine looking fellow — who tendered me many civilities ; and, also, to a Mr. Gerick6, a prominent citizen of Acapulco, now on his way to San Francisco. After Dinner the Captain invited me to his Room, and we talked an hour or two, I giving him some account of my travel experiences, and then, as usual, I went to bed at an early hour. The chief exports of Acapulco are Hides and Limes. Its only means of approach from the Interior are mule paths — there are no wagon roads. Notwith- standing the fine Harbor, I see no immediate future for Acapulco. The resources of the Country are not sufficient, I should think, to induce the building either of Wagon Roads or Railways — especially involving as they must such vast expense across the mountain trend. On Same Steamer, AT Mansanillo, Mexico, Saturday and Sunday, December 21 and 22, 1889. About three o’clock p. m. of Friday we left Acapulco, bound for Mansanillo — pronounced Mansauilyo — distant two hundred and ninety-seven miles. The atmosphere cooled toward the evening, and that, together with the motion of the Vessel, made it most enjoyable to linger on Deck and witness the varied outline of the Mountains, with their coming and going lights and shadows — the day closing with the royal purple of the Sunset spread over Sea and Land. Saturday was consumed in following quite closely the Coast Line of Mexico, with its Northwest inclination. The Mountains were of more imposing make, and of different contour and elevation, and I found great pleasure in spending the greater part of the day upon the MANSANILLO. 35 Bridge watching the shifting scene, and enjoying the breezes made by the Vessel’s motion. The Sea was smooth as glass. The Mountains are heavily clad in vegetation, yet I could, even with my glass, find no habitations : it looked like a great waste, void of cultivation. But towards the evening I saw a herd of Cattle wandering and feeding near the Shore, and thought I could detect some huts hid away among the foliage. Mr. Gericke, who knows the Country, says that many are raised through these mountain regions, valuable chiefly for their hides and tallow. The Captain and the Engineer have lent me some Books and with them I can while the hours. A volume or two of American Speeches, all of which I had read before, reviving memories of events, a part of which I was. Some of them read strangely now, taken with the fulfilment or refutal of their forecasts ; some stronger, some much weaker than when delivered. Some of the Speakers disgraced, some glorified their utterances. Some were heroic in their words alone ; some far more heroic in their deeds than in their promises. When one reaches the age when his experiences have passed into History, how interesting is their revival — if he can stand the strain. On Sunday morning, before the Sun was up, we came to Man- sanillo. I was out to see, and enjoy the cool and bracing air. The Harbor, like that at Acapulco, is a fine one — not so thoroughly shut in, but sufficiently to make it, one would think, quite safe — save it might be from a Southern blast. It is larger than that of Acapulco. The town has that which Acapulco has not — a Railway, which extends to Colima — pronounced Coleema — a run of ninety miles, while opening up the Interior gives it a larger and more varied trade, with hopes of still more increasing it by extension to the City of Mexico. I was interested this morning in watching the unload- ing of the freight for this point, and seeing how exceedingly small a part was from the United States; nine-tenths of it was from Great Britain and Germany, a repetition of the story I often told in South America, you remember. Together with Captain and Mrs. Helmicks, Mr. and Mrs. South- gate, Mr. Tod, and one or two others, I went ashore in one of the Boats. It is a much smaller place than Acapulco, though its trade is larger, for the reason I have given. We exhausted the little town when we walked along the street facing the Harbor, and returned by 36 LETTER NO. 4. the one behind it. Being Sunday, most of the Stores were closed, and the Streets were nicely swept, and the men, women, and children were in their best appai’el; and some of the young ones good-looking and pretty, with their clean faces and bright eyes. They have an exceedingly commonplace Cathedral. The Service was over there on our arrival. They have a Plaza, well kept and filled with Tropical fruits and flowers. Walking across the town, we came to a Laguna, which fills the Country in its rear — across which the Railway goes upon a Trestle — and which emits odors not equal, by any means, in sweetness to the Aroma of the flowers of the Plaza. Cocks were fastened by the legs here and there, awaiting action, and Mansanillo was not unlike other Mexican towns of its day and generation. We spent an hour or two thus wandering, and then returned. The Sun was hot, and I held to the shade of the houses or my umbrella. At three o’clock in the afternoon the Steamer left Mansanillo. I went upon the Bridge and remained there several hours, enjoying the breeze and outlook, steaming along the Coast. The Mountains continued much the same, and the Ocean held its own. Some of the Rocks were white with guano. The Captain pointed out to us the wreck of the Steamer San Francisco, which was burned more than quarter of a century ago ; many passengers went down, and several millions of money — much of the latter was recovered. After sundown a breeze sprang up, and became too fresh for us on Deck. Withdrawing to the Saloon, we had Service, in which we were led by Mr. Tod — who is a member of the Scotch Episcopal Church — and then the Ladies sang some Hymns, during which I went to Bed and was soon lulled to sleep by the distant sounds stealing through the passages and apartments to my Room. On Same Steamer, AND AT San Blas, Mexico, Monday, December 23, 1889. We did not reach San Bias — distant from Mansanillo one hundred and ninety-seven miles — till eleven o’clock this morning. It has no Harbor — simply an open Roadstead, where the Vessels anchor. Unlike the site of other towns of which I have spoken, the Mountains break away, and the place is seated on a flat, thick set with Cocoa- Palms, Bananas, and other Tropic growths, out of which peep the STEAMSHIP SAN BIAS— SAN BLAS. 37 native houses, covered with thatch, looking like they have done, I doubt not, for generations gone. The Custom House is old, too, having been built by the Spaniards years ago — solid and conspicu- ous — to whose proportions the town has not yet grown. I could see all worth seeing from the Deck, therefore did not go ashore. They tell me a Railroad was begun not long since, but never finished, and the complaints of San Bias are, like those of other towns along this Coast, that the Interior Railways have robbed them of their trade. This morning, whilst we came, a whale was seen ; and I observed a sword fish, said to be his mortal enemy, disporting himself in high glee, leaping from the water and splashing back, preparing, maybe, for a contest. They say the fight is most exciting. The sword fish, with lightning speed, coming from a distance, plunges his sword into the huge body of his enemy ; quickly withdrawing, with fierce velocity he again and again pierces his bulky foe, until his carcass floats lifeless upon the water ; the agility and speed of the sword fish is too much for the unwieldly, ponderous bulk of the so-called mon- arch of the Seas. At six o’clock we left San Bias, and continued on our journey. Two conspicuous Rocks, white with Bird Lime, adorn the water- scene around the Roadstead — one near the Shore, in close proximity to our anchorage — the other out at Sea. We steamed around, outside the farther one. It was after dark, and the Captain sent, specially to notify me, that I might see it close to the Ship, when we passed by beneath its towering shadow. On Same Steamer, AND AT MaZATLAN, MeXICO, Tuesday, December 24, 1889. At six o’clock this morning we came to Mazatlan — the last syllable pronounced long. This entrance surpassed in scenic interest all the towns we have seen upon either Coast. There is no Harbor — only a Roadstead open to the Sea — but around and about it are Rocks and Islands, which vie with each other in beauty of site and outline — some naked, some crowned with observatories and other structures, or covered thick with vegetation. These lie seemingly on both hands ; in front, upon the mainland Shore, is Mazatlan — its domed Cathedral 38 LETTER NO. 4. dominating the town from its highest site, whilst most of its houses are hid away among Cocoanut trees and other Tropic growths. Many of us went ashore. On reaching the Landing our party was numerous, and the City so large, that we agreed to separate and meet again at twelve o’clock, for our return. I w'andered through the place, now with one and now with another of our friends, and soon saw all it had to show me — not much. It is the largest Mexican town upon the Coast — numbering twelve or fifteen thousand people. It is built in old Spanish style, the houses of one story, generally of Brick or Adobe, plastered, with iron barred doors and windows — through which the Patio was often visible, planted in trees and flowers. The Streets are cpiite regularly laid out and reasonably clean ; and some of them supplied with street-cars. I visited many of the Stores and stopped at the Booths along the Streets and in the Markets. But there was little of home production among the manufactured articles. Most of them were foreign, and Toys and Jimcracks of German make abounded, of the lightest and flimsiest character — making ready for the waste of the Mexican’s frugal store at the Christmas Time. We passed some Schools — both boys and girls — which presented a neat and tidy look, and the little things’ voices were heard some steps away, studying aloud their lessons. Some of them were bright and pretty. The hardships of life and climate had not yet wiped off the bloom, and creased the lines of toil and suffering. We visited the Cathedral, to which, like many other things, distance lends enchantment. It is a rather plain, but quite large, affair — now undergoing I’epair ; but has nothing within or without to need the comment of the traveller. I got away from the other members of the party and wandered through the out-of-the-way streets, on their shady side, or with my umbrella. The Sun was hot ; — but Mazatlan is just South of the Cancer Line, and I think I can feel a tonic in the air, which seems to tide from temperate Zones ; and when in the shade, the heat is not at all oppressive. When I reached the Landing, my friends not yet having come in, I went to the Office of the Commandante of the Port, near by, and the Captain and Purser coming ashore, introduced me to him and I had much pleasant talk, he speaking English quite well. He urged the same complaint I have hitherto spoken of : that the Mexican Rail- STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS—OULF OF CALIFORNIA. 39 way system has prostrated the Sea- Ports on the Western Coast, by drawing from thtm the trade which they hitherto enjoyed. That of Mazatlan is less than before they were made. She now has no Railroad connection, and the great difficulties of its construction gives little hope of its speedy coming. Its chief px’oducts are Silver, Cotton, Sugar, and Corn, and it was interesting to see the long line of Pack- mules coming in with their heavy loads — the chief mode of trans- portation from the Interior. By one o’clock we were back again upon the Steamer. I spent the afternoon on Deck, enjoying the outlook and the breezes, whose temperature I could not have improved, and at six o’clock p. m. we steamed out for San Francisco — the last link of the long chain from New York — distant thirteen hundred and forty seven miles. On Same Steamee, Gulf of Califoenia, Christmas, Wednesday, December 25, 1889. Christmas Day ! so far from Home and so unlike in climate and surroundings those I spend when there ! But the Ladies, who are all from regions like my own, and the Captain and the Officers of the Ship have been busy for several days in making ready for its celebration. At the towns where we have stopped, purchases have been made, and at Mazatlan an Oleander was obtained for a Christmas Tree, and all day long everybody has been busy making ready. The day was consumed in crossing the Gulf of California — most of the time out of sight of land. At sundown we rounded Cape Saint Lucas. The Captain invited me to the Bridge, and the scene was one of exquisite beauty. It is among the finest Headlands I know — bare rock without a sprig of vegetation, broken into pinnacles and domes — not unlike the Needles of the Isle of Weight — upon which the Sea Birds make their home, and over which hundreds of them were circling, preparing for their rest. Some of these fine Rocks were yellow, others were the color of granite — all were marked by the elements, cut and carved into arches and caverns or jagged points, or smoothed by the countless years of storm of wind and wave, to which, thrown into the great Ocean, they have been subjected. The Sea was very calm, and we steamed quite near, though the Captain 40 LETTER NO. 4. said the depth was from five hundred to a thousand feet. There was no wind — only the gentle breeze made by the moving Ship, or the swell of air and water coming from the vast Deep, when in rounding the Cape, we opened up its volume. I will not soon forget this noble Headland, seen this Christmas Day, burnished with the glories of the Setting Sun. After Dinner our Christmas festivities came off The Ladies had made quite creditable preparations. They got up a Libretto of greet- ings to the Captain, each contributing a Merry Christmas ! Mine was thus : “ A Merry Christmas to you. Captain Johnston, of the good Ship San Bias ! “ Many a night have you stood beneath the Stars and conducted us safely on our Ocean way, whilst we slept in confident assurance of your pluck and skill. “ May the Star which heralded to the World this blissful day — a Star more glorious than all the Constellations — ever shine upon your Life, and fill your Heart and Home with perennial Peace and Joy ! ” Then they had little stories written by the Ladies and some of the young men — sounding not unlike a Commencement, and the disrobing of the Christmas Tree. The Captain and all the Officers appeared, the Purser acting as Santa Claus — the whole closing with a Dance, such as the area of our Saloon allowed. Thus the Evening was consumed — a creditable affair, considering the limited resources of a Ship. I was strongly tempted to make a Speech, and was urged, but regarding silence as golden, refrained. But what was all this to me? My heart was far away across the Continent and with my Dear ones, where it ever is and ought to be at these Christmas Times. The festivities on the Ship were simple shadows, which did not seem to touch me, and I wearied of them, thinking what you were all about, and longing to be with you. At such hours, I resolve, I will never go from Home again. What would I do, did not these Letters keep you by my side? When I am writing, I am talking to you and telling you what I see ; and my daily invocations ever carry you on their wings. Thus is it on this Christmas Evening, and I send you its precious greetings, with everything that term implies. At seven o’clock p. m. we crossed again the Tropic Line and were in our own Temperate Zone once more. STEAMSHIP SAN BIAS— OFF LOWER CALIFORNIA. 41 On the Same Steamer, OFF Lower California, Thursday and Friday, December 26 and 27, 1889. Sometimes the Coast Line during these two days was near, some- times out of sight. Yesterday we passed through a Fog drift — of small proportions, however, soon emerging into a clear Sky again. Whales now and then appeared, disporting themselves and tossing their little fountains in the air. The broad expanse of the great Ocean is felt more, and the Ship rises and falls with its swell — but gently, for there is no storm abroad and its surface is calm enough. The temperature grows perceptibly cooler — no torrid heat prevails now ; but the transition is very gradual, and biting frosts have not by any means shown their teeth — only a more vigoi'ous and vital tone, suiting our temperate systems better than heat. The Mountains are absolutely void of vegetation — seared and seamed with Volcanic fires, reminding me in this respect of those you heard so much of on my last Tour, save they are hardly more than worthy to be called the Foothills of the famous Andes. Two or three bulkier than the others, we were told, were almost entirely of Iron ore, and their metallic look confirmed the story. And when the Mountains let down and expanded into plains, the same ai’id, barren scene met the eye, absolutely beyond the reach of cultivation without water, and no water appeared any where to be present, save that of the Ocean, which washed the shores. Lower California certainly presents a far from attractive look, and the outside view, we learn, affords a sample of most of this long Peninsula — save, perhaps, a few Valleys opening inside upon the Gulf. The climate is, however, said to be most salubrious, and on this side the Continent presents the same combi- nation that we have in Florida upon the other in a different phase — ninety-five per cent climate and five resources — here of rock and ore, there of water. This is much what our Geographies used to tell us in our School-boy days. An Englishman by the name of Lloyd, from Shropshire, and with him an American by the name of Hamilton, from Ohio, got aboard at the last stopping place. They have been prospecting for metals in Mexico, and are now on their way to San Francisco. In the evening, I had a good deal of talk with them. Lloyd has been 42 LETTER NO. 4. much of a wanderer, and gives interesting accounts of his experiences by flood and field. In what part of the World are not Englishmen and our Teutonic Brothers now not found, trying their fortunes or looking for pleasure ? On Same Steamer, OFF Lower California, and the State of California, Saturday and Sunday, December 28 and 29, 1889. All day of Saturday we continued to Coast Lower California. The scene was much the same — Mountains without vegetation, seared and seamed and of metallic look, rising in recession from the Coast, with intei’esting outlines. The weather, too, continued to grow cooler from hour to hour, and in the afternoon we were breasting quite a gale. The Captain sent for me at about four o’clock p. m. to witness the approach to, and passage of Cape Colnett, one of the finest Head- lands in the World, in his estimation. Since I have seen it, I do not think he overestimates its magnificence. It is about one hundred miles south of the Boundary Line between the United States and Mexico, and presents the appearance of an immense Fortress. It rises from the Ocean — projected into it with clean-cut front like a wall — embracing, perhaps, a line of five or six miles, washed by the waters. Apparently built by human hands, it rises two or three hundred feet — constructed of stones of different color and quality — the lower half seemingly of yellow Sandstone of Cyclopean cut and architecture — the huge rocks seeming to be hewn and fit in layers — the upper half apparently rubble work of dark granite, firmly set by cement, and durable as the rock itself. Between these two there runs a horizontal line, straight as the mason’s cord could make it. The top of the space enclosed with this singular wall is level, with a slight inclination to the Land. The detritus has in ages fallen Seaward at the base, and for all the world looks like buttresses to strengthen the vast imposing structure. The Setting Sun helped to deepen the impression, and heighten the majesty of this great work of Nature, like it did the Cape Lucas Headland a few days ago ; and the Sea Birds came, too, and added their graceful forms and flight to the exceeding attractiveness of the scene. The Captain said he did not think he would reach and pass San Diego in California, on its South Coast Line, till after daylight. I STEAMSHIP SAN BIAS— OFF CALIFORNIA. 43 wished to see it, now one of the Health Resorts of the Pacific, and boasting the largest Hotel in the World — larger than the Ponce de Leon of St. Augustine, which claims the same on our side of the Continent — and covering, it is said, four acres of ground. We pass in full view and if it be in the day time, the whole can be well seen. The wind, however, lulled during the night and this morning, and the Steamer quickening her pace, the First Officer came to my Room and aroused me at half-past five o’clock, saying we were in front of San Diego and its lights were conspicuous. My window opened on the scene, and getting up I found that daylight had not yet arrived, and the Electric Lamps of the big Hotel -wei’e full in view. When I arose and went on Deck this morning, the Mountains of California, of the Inner Range, were white with snow from base to top. We have clean passed from Equatorial heats to the climes where Winter comes. The Thermometer in the Saloon where I am now writing has fallen to 62°. At eleven o’clock we had Service in the Saloon, read again by Mr. Tod ; and after Lunch I went to the Bridge to view the outlook. Under a cloudless Sky, and over a calm and deep blue Sea, for hours I enjoyed the scene, the second Range of Mountains adding to its beauty and interest by their thick clothing of fresh-fallen snow. The air was not chill and cold — only tem- pered by a tonic which does not belong to the Coasts of the Zone we have just left. I found from the Captain’s Chart that some of these Mountains are very high, and will hardly put off their white garments before the coming Summer. I transcribe some of them and their elevations — San Gabriel, six thousand two hundred and two feet ; Gleasius, six thousand four hundred and fourteen ; San Antonio, nine thousand nine hundred and thirty-one; San Bernardino, ten thousand ; Grizzly Peak, eleven thousand seven hundred and twenty-five. Between two and three o’clock we passed San Pedro — now quite a town — situated upon the high Shore conspicuously : backed by the Mountains of which I have just spoken. Inland, Northeast, is Los Angeles — now, you know, with its surrounding country, a quite famous Sanitarium and fruit-growing region of which, reaching it from across the Continent, I told you on my First Tour. My friend Mr. Lloyd took a group of us on Deck with his travel- ling camera. The whole afternoon was, in its temperature, well-nigh perfect, and the Deck was enjoyable accordingly, and I stood there till 44 LETTER NO. 4. Dinner time — soon after which I went to Bed. This you will doubtless say, was an early hour, and gave me a long night’s rest. I admit it; but almost every night I retire at that hour, giving myself twelve hours in Bed. If I do not sleep, I rest and think ; and at Sea I find no more valuable hours, and never weary of their length. I have told you before, I think, on this or other Tours, that there is no safer regimen for the traveller, than to sleep as much and eat as little as he can ; — and to the business man, no less important, in this active, unresting age of ours. On Same Steamship, ON Coast of California, Monday, December 30, 1889. This is the last day of our long voyage. To-morrow early we expect to be in San Francisco, and end a Journey which began in New York on the second of this month — in its water travel only broken by the Isthmus — a distance from New York of five thousand seven hundred and twenty-two miles. Its calm experiences have been most wonderful. Not a single contretemps. From the day we left New York, even on the Atlantic side in the Winter time, and through the Tropics on both sides the Continent, only favorable weather — the elements seeming to con- spire to make it almost perfect. To-day there came a change : not serious, only some rain and mist, enough to make the Fog Horn sound, to notify our fellow-voyagers on other Ships to look out and not run “ agin ” us. Whilst I write the fog prevails, and the Coast Line has disappeared behind it. Before it came, about midday, we passed close by Pedras Blancas — White Rocks — Lighthouse, and saw some whales spouting and wallowing in the Sea, and Gulls in numbers circling our Ship on untiring wing. To-morrow I will close this Letter, immediately on my arrival in the City — not even waiting to go to ray Banker’s and get yours, which I hope are waiting there for me. I know you want to hear of my safe arrival, and, therefore, will speed this off forthwith. I forgot to say, that the whole Coast of California is high — and few habitations showed themselves. Rarely any trees appeared : — now and then in the gulches and barrancas thei'e were groves — seem- STEAMSHIP SAN BLAS— CALIFORNIA. 45 ingly of Pine — about which there were, also, a few houses. The Mountains, however, were not barren and devoid of all life, but were frequently green with grass : — this is the Rainy Season. On Same Steamer, AND AT San Francisco, Tuesday, December 31, 1889. Last night head winds arose, and the mighty waters got up a swell which tossed our Ship considerably, and delayed our coming into San Francisco to a much later hour than the Captain expected. He thought he would get in by daylight; but it was ten o’clock before we were landed at the Wharf. But the winds spent themselves and we came into the Golden Gate under happiest auspices. You have several times before, with me, passed in and out this Portal, and I will not stop to tell you of it. On the Westward, the Farrallone Islands loomed up, and soon the clean-cut entrance to the Harbor towards the Northeast ; then the Cliff House and Sutro’s Park and Villa and the Seal Rocks in front, the waves dashing over them in spray ; and when we entered, on the left, Angel Island, in front, Alcatraz, and on the right the City opened out — all beneath a cloudless Sky and with pleasant temperature. The Captain introduced me to the Agent of the Line at this end, who came aboard and tendered me many civilities. He sent his First Officer to introduce me to the Customs Officers, who soon put my Baggage through. I took the Omnibus and sent my trunk by the Transfer Company — and here I am at the Occidental Hotel and writing this in my Room. I will now close this long Letter and speed it off, forthwith, with tenderest love for all, and then look after yours at my Banker’s. F. Have you heard from Mrs. Nelson — is she with you ? Tell her to write. How are all in Alexandria — and our neighbors ? F. 46 LETTER NO. 5. [No. 5.] My Dear Margaret , — San Francisco, California, Occidental Hotel, Wednesday, January 1, 1890. Immediately on my arrival here yesterday I mailed No. 4 to Tay- lor, which you will have learned, I trust, before this reaches you by due course of Post. That tells you briefly of my Travel happenings to my reaching this City. I bade Good Bye ! to my fellow-voyagers, all of whom by this time I knew, who wished me every favorable fortune, and many of whom thanked me flatteringly for the pleasure my intercourse with them had afforded. I parted, too, in the same kindly manner with the Captain and the other Officers, every one of whom had been untiring in his attention to me, and done everything in his power to make my time both pleasant and profitable. My German Friend, Mr. Gericke, Mrs. Winter and her two chil- dren, Mr. Helmicks and his Wife and Mr. Benjamin — the young U. S. Officers — and I took the Omnibus of this Hotel and very soon I was fixed in my Chamber, where I am writing these lines. First of all, after securing my Room, I went to the Bank of Cali- fornia to get the mail which I felt sure had gathered there for me. The Officer gave me a bundle of Letters and Papers ; I hurried to my Chamber with the treasure, and the afternoon was spent in com- muning with you all, the California world “shut out.” There were four from you, viz. : December 1, December 8, December 15, Decem- ber 22; from Charles three, viz. : December 6, December 13, Decem- ber 19; from Taylor four, viz. : December 2, December 8, December 13, December 19 ; from Mary one, December 8. Yours were a fine budget. When the Doctor told you, you were bothering me with trash, you were right in admonishing him, that he did not know what he was talking about. The recital of the little things and events about the community grow into Historic interest by travel, and, as I have many times written you on former Tours, photograph Home and its surroundings. Keep on writing just such Letters during my long Tour ; they bear with them the Story of the spot, the dearest to me of all the Earth, whatever portion of it I may SAN FRANCISCO. 47 visit. If Mrs. Nelson has come to you by this time, give her my love and tell her to write me a good long Letter, brimful of news, in response to at least two of mine, which she has failed to answer, telling me where she has been and what she has seen. I hope her health is entirely restored. I am sorry to hear Cousin Fred has not been well. Give both her and Cousin Bet my love. I am sorry to learn of Judge Green’s death, but glad to hear of Dan Lucas’ appoint- ment to the Judgeship of the Court of Appeals to fill the vacancy — it is, I feel sui-e, a good appointment. Congratulate him and Mrs. Lucas from me, and tell her I am satisfied he will fill the position with credit to himself and honor to his State. Tell the Doctor — with my love — he is right ; keep on promising to write — if he does write he will fulfil his promise — if he does not, like the American Indian, “ he has all the time there is ” to do it in. To Charles: Your Letters came, as ever, bringing pleasure with them. I am glad to hear you are all well, including Mrs. Nelson. My love to everybody at home and in Charley’s Household. Christ- mas with both has come and gone since you wrote. I remembered you on the Sea, and wrote greetings, which I trust will reach you before this comes to hand. I heard of Jefferson Davis’ death on the way — a telegram had been received at one of the towns announcing it. His was a varied life, and few men have lived under bitterer and more revengeful obloquy : and few men have passed through its .fire more stainless. His bad health and fierce trials made him say and do things that had been better left unsaid and undone ; but no man can assert, with truth, that his ability was not great, and his intentions above reproach. With him — indeed, with all the Leaders of our Cause — there will be no controversy in “ after time ” that they were Knightly Gentlemen, fit representatives of a Civilization than which no higher, richer, more refined adorns the Realm of History. “Time at last sets all things even.” Recognition of Davis’ lofty qualities of head and heart came sooner than to most who have led a Failing Cause. For Centuries, Cromwell’s memory, like his bones, were lost. Now, his Countrymen go about to find the true story of his Life and build monuments to his name to show what a glory he was to the Anglo-Saxon Race. There is vitality in our Southland yet, breathing the spirit of the Civilization of which none of us need feel ashamed. Witness our late triumph in Virginia — all things considered, one of the grandest in her annals ; witness the outburst of chivalric feeling 48 LETTER NO. 5. which bore upon its wings the late Chief of the Confederacy to his place among the Galaxy of our departed great ones — a feeling more honorable to the living than the Dead — “ There is Life in the Old Land yet !” — Kind wishes to Mrs. Blackburn. Tell her I am glad she enjoys wandering with me amid the Lights and Shadows of the Midnight Sun. Tell Louise and Taylor it is pleasant to know that they are tracing my lines of Travel on the Map. I trust no misfortune may befall to interrupt their pursuit of me around the World. To 3Iary : This may find you in Winchester, from what you said in your Letter. Fix things up nicely for your Uncle Taylor, before you start upon the trip to Fredericksburg and Alexandria you have in view ; and when you go, may your visit be filled with enjoyment to the overflowing ! To Taylor : Your Letters were like Margaret’s, newsy, and, there- fore, good. You tell me of John Stephenson shingling at Lewis Huck’s : — did he fix up the Palings near the corner on Washington Street, and the fence opposite John Kulton’s, and the water gate in the back part of the Lot ? You speak of Rogers and the Corn Crop and Hogs — you say nothing about the balance of the Wheat Crop, undelivered when I left, and at what price and the number of Bushels. I would like you to keep the Road in mind — not, of course, do unnecessary work, but not let it get out of order to such an extent as to require a heavy outlay. Don’t forget to see West Baker and Ed. Hollis with regard to the new assessment. I gave you the state- ment Hollis and I agreed’ would be right and proper, and the result of my talk with West Baker. I am truly glad that Cousin Mary stood the operation so well that it resulted better than you anticipated. Give her my kind wishes and tender love. Did she get the Letter I sent her just before I left? I notice what you say about the Lot and the Hotel. I have no idea that anything will come of it. But in case a question should be made about the price, I think you had better act upon the terms of my offer — which Margaret wrote you about when I saw her in Charlestown. I am glad to hear that Carter is lively and bright and is teaching Briggs to handle himself. It was a good thing that Dainger Lewis was again elected President of the Fair. He is admirably adapted to it. I have hopes now, that under the happy auspices of the Railroad’s help, it may flourish beyond anything in its previous history. Of course, it would have SAN FRANCISCO. 49 been out of the question for me to have accepted the position. I note what you say about the Shoe Factory; I hope something may be done to your entire satisfaction. I read our Friend’s proceedings, published in the town papers you sent me. He made a mistake, which his Calling ever does when they leave their own sphere of action to dabble in matters of and about which they know nothing — and hurt themselves and the Cause they advocate. A speech more full of Political and Economical blunders one would not wish to see. Our Friend, from want of study and knowledge, not from want of high intention and purity and earnestness of motive, will only sow the seeds of discontent, which, unless remedied, must bloom into an ugly harvest. I heard a gentleman of considerable native capacity say, that men only could, grow rich by stealing from somebody else. Not a few of our Friend’s positions are equally untenable. Happily, the first-named gentleman’s views were expressed in the pulpit and died in their utterance, exciting simple wonder at their ignorance; our Friend’s were before a Popular Assembly, and who can tell what harm they may do? The chief trouble in our town at this time is want of employment and willingness to work; if our Friend can give the unemployed work, and induce them to perform it, he will tend to remedy the evils and annoyances of which he speaks. Gratuitous charity is not a blessing; it is a curse, humiliating to the recipient, and begetting not gratitude, but a spirit of hate to avenge the humili- ation. Alas ! he does not seem to know that his line of remark will only aggravate ; it will not cure. What help is it to them, when out of employment, to meet in Assembly, and spend their time and what little money they may have, that ought to be spent with and upon their families, in vexing each other into mutiny and discontent by exacer- bating their troubles or finding a scapegoat in some other class or classes of their fellow-citizens? I fear if our Friend continues in these courses he will not be the Minister of the Peace he proposes and hopes to be, but rather a disturber of it. If he will reflect, he will find his views have been those of agitators ever since Labor and Capital began their career among civilized men — or since Ailsop wrote the Fable of the Stomach and the Members. Let us have quiet and not controversy. Let us preach the doctrines which tend to crown the individual with noble virtues, and every Department of Society and of Government and every sphere of action will flourish in order and contentment ; and, our Friend may rest assured, ineluded in them will be that of 4 50 LETTER NO. 5. Political Economy. This Science, above all others, in the wise dis- pensation of Providence, most flourishes when each individual works out his own destiny, provided he does it along those lines, which it is the sensible and good man’s especial duty to inculcate. Thus much for our Friend. I hope sincerely for his own good and that of our community and the peace and harmony of our Society, he will call a halt. Recently he tried what he thought were new things in another arena; he finds them already threadbare. So he will find in his new venture on the field of Political Economy and Ethics. Kind wishes for all the neighbors and Dr. Fuller and inquiring friends. Tell the Doctor to look after you while I am gone. I return you Mr. B. F. Brown’s Letter. You ought have written to him of my absence. I am sure Holmes Conrad will give it attention. I don’t wish to be thought neglectful. This covers, I believe, all matters alluded to in your Letters. In the afternoon I strolled about the City. In the evening the Reporters, learning I was here, called to see me and pay their respects. I received and treated them courteously ; but, as usual, politely de- clined to be interviewed about Virginia, or other Public matters, telling them I had always during my life observed that course, and had in my experience reason with it to be fully satisfied. They took it in good part, and their allusions to me in this morning’s Papers were eulogistic in the extreme — “my great abilities” — “my extensive travels ” — “ my vast learning ” — “ my large wealth ” — all of which, in the goodness of their heart, they “ made up.” None of which, however, do I propose to correct in to-morrow’s issue — they hurt nobody and are forgotten soon as read. To-day — January 1 — I devoted much of my time to the reading of the batch of Papers Taylor sent — especially interested in the Locals of our town. I have already commented on things I there saw. I met Colonel Mosby and we had a friendly greeting. He politely tendered his services in any way in his power whilst he is here, for to-morrow he leaves for Washington, to argue his Case before the Supreme Court, in relation to certain fees due him as Consul at Hong-Kong, which he says amount to fifty thousand dollars. He went with me to the Palace Hotel and introduced me to Captain Morse of the Steamship Alameda — which I will take to Auckland. He, also, introduced me to J udge James D. Thornton of Virginia, a brother of Jack Thornton, once a prominent man in our State. SAN FRANCISCO. 51 He received me most cordially. The Judge has been here for thirty- five years. I am afraid too many will find me out and disturb my quiet. Mosby told me Miss Mary Smith, daughter of our old Friend Governor William Smith, was at the Lick House. Knowing her and her Father so well, I went to see her, and had a most cordial reception and pleasant chat. The day, like yesterday, has been clear and bright, and I took a long stroll abont the City in the afternoon. I shall not trouble you with any description of San Francisco ; I have told you enough on former Tours. Ko separate and distinguishing objects of interest have come since then. They claim that its population has grown to three, even some insist four, hundred thousand people. Certainly many handsome structures have gone up in various sections. But bad streets — the bane of American Cities — badly paved and now worse here by the long rains — meet you everywhere. There is nothing at the Theatres to call me out, and I go to bed early. San Francisco, California, Same Hotel, Thursday, January 2, 1890. The day opened badly. When I went out the rain was pouring in torrents and it continued all day. They tell me that of my arrival and yesterday were the only good days they have had here for a month. This continued rain they say is phenomenal — and such is its violence, that immense damage has been done, especially in the Southern portions of the State. This, donbtless, you have seen in the Papers. A gentleman told me it is the worst spell since the eventful year of 1849, when he first came to California. I, however, deemed it better to go out, in spite of the weather, and see about my State-room on the Steamer. I found that Major J. Wickham Leigh, to whom I had written, you remember, had attended to my request, and engaged for me, the Captain said yester- day, the best Room on the Ship. The downpour was such that I returned to the Hotel and remained all day. The calls upon me, I am sorry to say, continue. My friend Captain Johnston, and Chief Engineer Thomas A. Porter, called, whom I missed ; and Dr. St. Leben, the Surgeon, whom I saw, and 52 LETTER NO. 5. invited to Breakfast with me to-morrow. Mr. W. C. Howard, of Norfolk, called a second time, whom I missed on both occasions; and Judge Thornton came to my Room in the evening and sat several hours, and we talked of the Old State and her people as only Virginians can. He is about sixty-eight years of age, and has a lively remembrance of the people whom we both knew, many of whom, alas ! have passed away, and he seemed not to weary of talk- ing of them. He leaves the Bench soon. Next Spring he hopes to go back to Virginia on a short visit. I am sorry I will not probably have returned by that time; I should like to have him at our Home. In the running through the Papers Taylor sends, I looked for the Governor’s Message, but I could no where find it. Our town papers do not publish it — the Times only containing a brief synopsis. I wished to see his views and recommendations with regard to the State Debt. But maybe it is as well for me not to see it. I have no idea that it contains anything of value towards its Settlement. Our Friend, from his attitude and utterances hitherto during his Term, will be powerless to effect anything. He has only involved us in mistier and deeper trouble — more dangerous to our Commonwealth and her reputation than the wildest schemes of the Repudiators. But for this attitude he would have had a grand opportunity. For him, all that is lost, and he leaves us without chart or rudder. The little things which occupied our State Government for the last four years have vanished into thin air — and there stands the Gaunt Figure of our Dishonored Credit, barring the way, fiercer and more hideous than ever. Oh ! that our Public men had the ability, and the courage to lead in great measures, and not be led by a shallow, popular senti- ment, instead of courageously guiding and instructing the people in high questions of Policy and Principle and in the lofty duties of Citizenship ! Will his successor do any better ? I trust so. I do not know whether he has those distinguishing qualities of which I speak. But I told him, you remember, at the time he was in Win- chester on his Canvass, that when elected, which I hoped sincerely he would be, he must manfully take the Question in hand, and not follow, but lead, and I was sure success would crown his efforts. No better time would ever come. The people, elevated by the victory which carried him into office, had been lifted from the Slough of Despond into which the Demagogues and shallow politicians had cast SAN FEANCISCO. 53 them, and were ready for practicable, sensible and honest work. He promised to remember my words. Let us hope that he may. San Francisco, California, Same Hotel, Friday, January 3, 1890. Another blustery, rainy day, intermingled with a pelting storm of hail. I mention the weather from time to time to show you what the ever-claimed equable climate of California can do, when it has a mind to. That of which I speak is much like our March weather in its damp, fickle, disagreeable character — though no snow has fallen yet, only hail and deluges of water. A heavy fall of it will come, and the whole Sky be thickly overcast — then the clouds will partially disperse and clear patches of blue appear — in the next moment to be again covered with clouds, spouting rain. This is California in the Rainy Season. But I enter the protest of all who live here — that it must not be taken as a sample of it ordinarily. It is abnormal — from a Weather Bureau — all awry for some unknown cause or causes. My Friend Dr. St. Leben, of the S. S. San Bias, breakfasted with me according to arrangement. I sent word to the Captain and other Officers they must come and take a meal with me, also, whenever their convenience and engagements allowed. After Breakfast, notwithstanding the weather, I went out with Judge Thornton for a walk — to try to buy Trollope’s “Australia,” which I could not get on the other side of the Continent ; nor could I here : — to go to the Bank and inquire for more mail — I got a Letter from Taylor of December 26, and a package of Papers : — to go to the Land Office, that I might see Major J. W. Leigh and thank him for his courtesy and kindness in securing me a State-room on the Steamer for Auckland. He received me very kindly, and my Letter in response, recognizing his to me with regard to the matter, he said made him wince — for it was so written as to express more than the simple words implied — and he inferred, that his did not carry such willingness to comply with my request as it might. I told him, to be honest, such was my inference, and I wrote it, bearing much between the lines, that it might be read exactly with the same spirit that he had complied with my request. Oh ! he said that was good ; he had read the unwritten words between the lines, and felt 54 LETTER NO. 5. that if he was curt he deserved the elegant but keen rebuke ; but he assured me it gave him the greatest pleasure to attend to my wishes and hoped he had done everything I wanted. I told him everything — and as the words between the lines were not written, they could summarily be dismissed as interlopers. You remember, I did not know Major Leigh. He is a son of our great Benjamin Watkins Leigh, and a gentleman every way. When I wrote to him, I enclosed a Letter of Introduction from Bob Hunter. We then had a good old Virginia talk — one of the olden time — and I found him a nice gentleman — and agreeable, like such men are wont to be. He tendered me many attentions and civilities. Not being able to buy the Book, Judge Thornton took me to the Mechanics’ Institute Library, and introduced me to Mr. Horace Nil- son, the Librarian. He said the Book was in the Collection, and got it for me, and gave me a Privilege Ticket, which will admit me to the Rooms at all hours. But he said he would take the responsibility of lending me the Book ; I might find it more convenient to read it at the Hotel. This was very kind. Then the Judge took me to a French Restaurant, and we Lunched on Canvass Back Duck, which he had previously oi’dered — a good and juicy meal, I would say, were I an Epicure. These doings, together with visiting Colonel Andrews’ elegant Jewelry Store, con- sumed most of the day, which we accomplished by dodging now and then from the pelting rain and hail, under awnings and into stores, most agreeable of all, into the Market, where I saw a collection of California’s products, equal in variety and quality to any I ever saw in any part of the World. Surely, it was a blessed day for her people when this great State stepped from the absorbing pursuit of Mineral Wealth into the cultivation of her Soil ! In the afternoon, Mr. Winfield S. Jones — Julian’s Uncle — called to see me and sat some time. He is a nice fellow and tendered me his services and hospitalities in any way most agreeable to myself. I told him my rule as to accepting hospitality on Travel. He said he trusted I would break it in his behalf. He offered to take me to the Theatre. Declining this, he said I surely would not decline his escort to Church on Sunday — that he would call for me in the morning. Later in the day he wrote me a most urgent and cordial invitation, and sent it by his nephew, W. Brooks Jones, to go home with him after Church and meet some friends. This I could not decline. SAN FEANCISCO. 55 After Dinner, Judge Thornton called for me at my Room and took me to his own apartments in this Hotel, where I met Mrs. Thornton and their Son — Mrs, Thornton was a Miss Thornton of Alabama, and a niece of John J. Crittenden, of Kentucky, her mother being his sister. She is a Typical Southern women, not yet reconstructed — full of vitality, intelligence, and enthusiasm. You may be sure we had a good time, till ten o’clock, in gathering up memories of people and events in which we have a common heritage. She knew all about our old town during the War and how her sex had filled it with a History brighter than the mere conflict of arms of their husbands, sons and brothers. When Southern people of common faith, who have lived through and survived the War, get together in a distant Country, though they have never met before, how they can fill the air with light as from an Oriflamme, and speed the hours ! I haven’t time to tell you what we talked about : you know, or can infer, without my telling ; for, however diverse the subjects, there is and can be with us only one common theme. To Taylor: Your Letter makes me feel very comfortable — all seems to be going well at the Old Home and in Charlestown. I note what you say about Rogers selling the Pork, and Fred Strother fixing the Road. I think you are right about my Book of Letters of Travel A. S. borrowed; he has had it since last May; others want it, and it might be lost, or fall into the hands of persons who may steal it. I think, too, you are right not to run more than two of each. You ought to have given the Second Tour to D. L. instead of J. S. You know D. has been waiting anxiously for it for a long time. J. will not read it with the same avidity — if at all. Don’t forget D. San Francisco, Same Hotel, Saturday, January 4, 1890. Another day like yesterday — raining, blustery at intervals, the whole time, and most Marchy and unpleasant. But it did not deter me from walking to the Lauding of the Oceanic S. S. Company and looking at my Room on the Alameda, which steams out on next Saturday — the eleventh — for Auckland. I found Captain Morse on the Wharf ; he went aboard with me and showed me every courtesy. I shall be very comfortably fixed for my long voyage, and I think Morse, from his outgivings, will help to make it enjoyable. In 56 LETTER NO. 5. walking to and fro, I had now and then to get under awnings and sheds, and in stores, to escape from the driving rain, which, notwith- standing my umbrella, would have drenched me thoroughly. I stopped in a Shoemaker’s little shop to have my shoe righted up, and whilst he was at work we had a talk — which was by no means uninteresting, and if I had time I would detail some of it. He is from Ohio, was on the Northern side in the War, and a sensible fellow. In the afternoon the weather kept me in, and I devoted the time to writing a portion of this Letter, and reading the two papers you sent — one the Winchester News and the other the Richmond Despatch, I recall nothing that, it appears to me, needs comment. In the evening, my San Bias German Friend, Mr. Gericke, and I went to the Baldwin Theatre to see the “Queen’s Mate” — a spec- tacular Comic Opera — not bad, or badly gotten up, but too long, and I tired before eleven o’clock, when the Curtain fell. I soon found bed a more comfortable place than a seat in the Orchestra, before the garish footlights and tinsel of the Stage. I will close this now, and put it on the wing over the Mountains. It will be delayed, I fear; for the way, they tell me, is blocked with snow in the Sierra Nevadas. But the sooner it starts, the sooner you will receive it. I will write again before I leave. Continue to address your Letters to Care of “ Bank of New Zealand, Auckland, New Zealand," till further orders. As at present advised I will keep that as my general Receiving Office, and let them be distributed or forwarded thence. I do not know any surer or safer way of getting them. With tenderest love for all, F. P. S. — I may send you by Express some Books and other things I want to get rid of — too much or too little to carry around the World. That was near being a disastrous Fire at the Episcopal Church. Doubtless greater damage was done by the Water than the Fire, in the Engine Boys’ enthusiasm. SAN FRANCISCO. 57 [No. 6.] My Dear Mary , — Saj: Francisco, Occidental, Hotel, Sunday, January 5, 1890. Yesterday I finished No. 5 to your Mother, and mailed it to your Uncle Taylor. May it have a safe and swift journey ! To-day the bad weather was broken : and a clear Sky hung over us, much to the delight of the people of San Francisco. Young Mr. Jones came according to appointment and escorted me to Church — where I heard Rev. Mr. Fout, whom they regard as a fine preacher. I cannot say he thus impressed me. The Sermon was upon the year just gone, and its pleasant and gloomy events and memories — a sentimental Discourse — containing altogether too much both of the ^‘lively and severe” — not enough of thought to give framework to the foliage and flowers — which, in such case, always lapses from intended fragrance into weariness, and instead of interesting, palls. His voice was enough to have marred the Sermon, even had it been perfect — bolting out his sentences, and fragments of sentences, not unlike the popping of a bundle of Jackson Crackers. He has doubtless some- thing in him, but he didn’t let it out to-day. After Church we walked to Mr. Jones’ — who came out of his house and met me on the Street, some distance away, and gave me a most hospitable greeting. His house is small, but beautifully and tastefully furnished and adorned with works of Art — Pictures, Bronzes, and Bric-a-brac. He is a Bachelor; he and his nephew occupying the mansion alone. Soon the other guests arrived : — Mr. and Mrs. Tevis, Colonel and. Mrs. Coleman, and Mrs. Coit. Mr. Tevis is a Millionaire — ten or twelve times repeated. He is a Kentuckian — been here many years — part owner of the famous Anaconda Copper Mine near Boies City in Idaho, and other valuable ore deposits. His wife was a Miss Saun- ders, also from Kentucky. Mrs. Coit was a Miss Hotchkiss, now a widow — smart and pleasant — a relation, she tells me, of the Hunter’s — recently visited R. M. T. Hunter’s family in Essex. Colonel Coleman married Miss Gwin, — Senator Gwin’s Daughter, before the War U. S. Senator from Mississippi, who died recently in New 58 LETTER NO. 6. York. Coleman, you remember, I met out here on my First Tour, and received many civilities from him then. The Lunch was hand- some and handsomely served, and several hours sped pleasantly. After Lunch, Mr. Jones said he had told Mrs. and Miss Flood that he was going to bring me to call on them. They expressed much gratification, and said they would be glad to see me ; and Mr. Jones proposed we should go. They are in mourning. Mr. Flood, one of the wealthiest men on the Pacific Coast, died at Heidelberg rather more than a year ago. His Widow and Daughter occupy a splendid mansion on Nob-Hill — the finest and most sumptuous in its appointments and furniture of all the mansions in that sumptuous locality. It is said that this young Lady has been courted by any number of Lords and titled gentry, and has had the good sense to discard them all — a discretion well worthy of imitation by not a few of her cotemporaries. We called about three o’clock, and were received by Miss Flood in an easy, simple, and cordial manner. She is, I should think, not much less than thirty — good looking and sensible, talks pleasantly and well. Before leaving, at Mr. Jones’ request, she showed us through the house — well worth seeing. It is very large, built of Red Sandstone — brought from Connecticut — the same style of that which adorns Fifth Avenue. It is finished in various kinds of hard wood, most elaborately carved, and furnished regardless of cost, yet without the slightest glare or glitter, all in quiet and elegant tone, and ornamented with fine Paintings, Bronzes, and the like. She showed us through every Room, and in our progress we came to Mrs. Flood’s, who was not well enough to go down stairs but who received us most kindly — a good looking old Lady, evidently good as she looks. Standing on the highest point of Nob-Hill, the outlook from the windows all around is beautiful exceedingly, commanding the whole circuit of the City and Harbor and shipping and across to Berkeley, Oakland, and Alameda — backed by Mountains, now white with snow. When here before I was on this elevation, and enjoyed the magnificent scene. But this afternoon, with the vantage ground of the high windows, the sunlight, and the snow, I never saw it glowing with such uncommon splendor. This, I think, is the finest private residence I ever saw — rendered more interesting by reason of 'its freedom from pretension, and its homelike quiet and comfort. But these sumptuous and costly affairs do not at all excite my envy ; SAN FRANCISCO. 59 any more than Windsor Castle did, when, you remember, in answer to my interrogatory, the Housekeeper, who was conducting me through, said they were not by any means a guard against or solace to Royal annoyance or sorrow ; or than old Sam Johnson, just out of his dingy Garret, did the beautiful Home of his young friend and protege, David Garrick, in the flush of his fame and prosperity. It is much more pleasant to enjoy them, whilst others have the care of their building, adornment, and preservation. Miss Flood conducted us to the front door and out upon the portico, and bade us good evening in the simplest and most graceful manner. I mention her and her Mother thus particularly, because, whilst she is highly educated, her Mother and Father began their lives in the humblest walk of life — keeping a small store in this City — and her Father carved out his own fortune. Now she excites the admiration of those who have always known her, by her excellent manners, and unpretentious goodness and kindness of heart to all. Mr. Jones and I wandered about for awhile over the Hill, enjoying the Scene. In the vicinity are five other famous residences — Mrs. Hopkins’, Senator Stanford’s, Mr. Crocker’s and his Son’s, and Mr. Colton’s. Mr. and Mrs. Crocker are dead, and Mrs. Hopkins is married and gone East, and their houses are closed. I then returned, walking, to the Hotel. After Dinner, my old travelling companion in Scandinavia, Mr. J. H. Langtry, you remember, called to see me and sat an hour or two, and we reviewed the experiences of our Travel. He is still with the Wells, Fargo & Co. Express Company, and says he hopes soon to leave business, and, being a Bachelor, spend the residue of his Life in Travel. I told him this would not do] he would soon weary of it. He ought to have some place he can call Home — to which he could return and gather up the fruits of his Travel experiences ; otherwise, it would be only Vagabondage. Whilst he was in my Room, Judge Thornton came to take me to his ; where I had promised to spend a while this Evening with him and Mrs. Thornton, and where I went when Mr. Langtry left. The time passed rapidly and pleasantly, whilst we discussed things and people hereabouts of whom I knew nothing, and things and people in old Virginia of which and whom we all knew much ; that brought us close together. The Judge to-day introduced me to a Mr. Madden of Fairfax County, Virginia, who has been out here 60 LETTER NO. 6. many years, and who, the Judge says, has been a successful man of business. Charles may know something about the name. Same City and Hotel, Monday, January 6, 1890. To-day I crossed the Ferry and took train to Berkeley, to see Commodore and Mrs. Jefferson Mauiy, who now reside there. You remember, I met them in Hong-Kong on my Fourth Tour, and how attentive and polite they were. They called to see me at the Palace Hotel on my arrival in this City returning from that Tour ; they having preceded me a few weeks, whilst I was visiting China and Japan. On my reaching Home, I wrote them a letter of recognition, and addressed it to Oakland, which was returned to me undelivered. I learned here they are living in Berkeley and not in Oakland, and I determined to run across and see them, and deliver in person the Letter which had been returned and which I had brought along with me. I did so this morning. Crossing the Fei'ry from the foot of Market Street, I took train on the other side of the Bay and went to Berkeley, the extreme West end and the terminus of the run. These three Cities, beginning on the West, Berkeley, Oakland, and Alameda, run along the Shore of the Bay, and seem, in the distance, from the heights of San Francisco, to be in effect one. You remem- ber, when here before I visited the University in Berkeley and gave you some general account of the places. I will not repeat. Leaving the train at the Station, I walked to Commodore Maury’s, a few hundred yards away. He lives in a nice Cottage, embowered in foliage and surrounded by an ornamented yard. Unhappily, on inquiry of a Chinese servant, who came to the door, both he and Mrs. Maury were absent. I left the letter of which I have spoken, together with a note to them, giving expression to my regrets at not seeing them, and saying, I was sure they would agree, that I was the Champion Letter Carrier of the Continent, and the Govern- ment ought to I’ecognize my merits by appointing me to some high and responsible Office, that requires a good deal of running around. When I left, on the next train, — an hour after my arrival — the weather began to come down. In the morning, the day promised to be a repetition of yesterday. But the rain had not done, and the clouds spread themselves, and together with the smoke of the City, SAN FRANCISCO. 61 and the mist and rain, obscured the lovely scene of which I told you Sunday, under different auspices. Notwithstanding this condition of things, having my umbrella with me, I preferred to walk from the Ferry to the Hotel. This ended anything of interest worth writing here. During my absence. Colonel Evan J. Coleman called to see me — the gentleman with whom I dined on Sunday at Mr. Jones’. He left for me a card, giving me the privileges of the Pacific Union Club. Same City akd Hotel, Tuesday, January 7, 1890. To-day has been bright and sunshiny. This morning, I called on Mr. Winfield S. Jones at his jjlace of business — 228 Montgomery Street — not far from this Hotel. He is President of a Bank. I found him in ; he invited me into his private Office and I had a pleasant talk with him, as long as I thought it proper to intrude upon his working hours. I told him I was on my way to the Bank of California ; he said he would accompany me and introduce me to the Officers ; which he did. He showed me the Bank Apartments, and got one of the Officers to produce some of their bricks of the Precious Metals — one of Gold, woi’th nearly seven thousand dollars — about the size of one of our Winchester building bricks. On inquiry for Letters, one was given to me from your Mother, dated 29 December, 1889. I drew, also, some money to purchase my Ticket to Auckland. Returning, Mr. Jones took me to the Stock Exchange ; but the hour had passed, and the Board had adjourned. I think I will stop in to-morrow and see what manner of looking men they be who there resort. Mr. Jones invited me to dine at his house with the Rev. Mr. Eout and Wife on Friday next. He is certainly very hospitable and kind, and seems really most anxious to show me every attention in his power. I declined ; but he appeared so desirous of having me meet his Pastor, who, he said, he was sure, would be equally gratified, that I at last told him I would let him know on Thursday, if I found I could accept. 62 LETTER NO. 6. On my walk back to the Hotel, I met Commodore Maury, who had just been to call on me, and had left with his card a Letter from Mrs, Maury. It was near midday, and I invited him to go back with me and Lunch. Just at the moment. Judge Thornton came up, and I invited him to join us at an hour fixed — all of which was agreed to. In the meantime, the Commodore went with me to Cook’s and other Intelligence OflSces, to get information with regard to the Steamer Lines from Australia to the Cape Colonies. After which we met and Lunched together, talking the while upon subjects of interest — in a manner peculiar to old Virginians, and in which they never, any more than Old Vii’ginia, seem to tire. I read Mrs. Maury’s note — I enclose it that you may see what a nice one it is — inviting me to dine with them. This I declined. The Commodore said it would be a great disappointment to her ; and he hoped I would I’econsider. I told him, if I did change my mind, I would telegraph him the day before. We strolled through Market, Kearney and other of the chief Streets, looking at the people, many of whom were out enjoying the Sunshine — among them not a few pretty women — and when we parted, he to return to Berkeley, I continued my stroll for an hour or two. In the afternoon. Captain J. C. Watson, of the United States Navy, and Major John Wickham Leigh called to see me. I was in, and we had a long conversation. Captain Watson is a Ken- tuckian, and married a Daughter of Judge Thornton. They were both apparently much interested in my Travel-talk, which subject they introduced. My efforts to be incog, have not at all succeeded, and if I stay here many days I will be found out generally, and be flooded with attentions. Already you see how they are coming — unwilling though I be — saying all the time, that I do not accept hospitalities when I travel. What does that resolution have to do with the kind and hospitable people of the Pacific Coast ? I forgot to say, that I went with Mr. Jones to another Market and to an Exhibition of the Products of Placer County, in this State, — and was still further confirmed in the estimate I had formed of the great range in the value, variety, and volume of the productions of California. To Margaret: When I could get a free moment I read your wel- come Letter — newsy and interesting — the last from you, doubtless, I shall receive whilst on the Continent ; the next will greet me in SAN FRANCISCO— SUTRO PARK. 63 New Zealand — where you must all continue to write till further orders. I shall make Auckland, Care the Bank of New Zealand, my general receiving and distributing Office for the present — maybe for some time — being uncertain with regard to my specific movements till I reach there, I am glad things are getting on well with you and in Winchester. I am delighted to hear that Cousin William Smith has been benefited by the operation on his eyes — I hope it will equally benefit his general health. At night, Mr, Gerick6 and I went to the Ward Theatre, and saw a Variety Exhibition of singing, dancing, low comedy and the like, that amused and made me laugh — which, except fine Actors, is the best I ever ask from the average Theatre. Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, January 8, 1890. Another beautiful day, devoted, in company with Judge Thorn- ton, to visiting the Cliff House and Sutro Park. After going with me to return the Book I borrowed from the Librarian of the Mechanics’ Institute, we mounted one of the Cable Cars, and, with one change of the Cable and one of the Dummy Steam, all effected with perfect ease, their termini being in close proximity to each other, we landed near the entrance of Sutro Park. The Judge knew Adolph Sutro very well, having been his personal Friend and Lawyer for many years, and we called first upon him: but were informed by the Servant that he was in the City, where he would probably remain till Saturday. We then walked over the Park, which Mr. Sutro has generously thrown open to the Public. It occupies what was once a barren Sand Dune, of considerable elevation, now by cultivation converted into Grounds of great taste and beauty, adorned with Trees, Flowers, and Statuary — kept in perfect order — well-graded walks and drives leading everywhere. Sutro is the designer of the celebrated Sutro Tunnel, and now one of the wealthiest men of the Pacific Coast. He was born at Aix-la-Chapelle, and his fortune is of his own making. Wandering around and through it to our satisfaction, we descended to the Cliff House — situated on a Rocky bluff overlooking the water — and sat on the Portico, enjoying the Sunlight and the Sea, 64 LETTER NO. 6. each beautifying the other — and watching the Seals as they swam around, and climbed up the Rocks, a short distance from us, or tumbled up and down and over each other in their sport, the while bellowing and grunting hoarsely. It is an interesting sight — for there are many hundreds — no one being allowed to kill or dis- turb them. There is complaint that they are very voracious, and destroy many fish ; but their picturesque inutility has hitherto triumphed — the Seals themselves of no value for their fur, it being worthless. I met with several gentlemen there from the State of Wash- ington, who gave me glowing accounts of the present condition and promise of Seattle and Spokane Falls — the anticipations of its friends of 1882 in the former, when I was there, having been fulfilled, thus far. The Judge and I then took Lunch at the Cliff House — and a very good one — and rested a while thereafter, enjoying the delightful air and outlook. On our way back to the Railroad, walking, we met Mr. Sutro. He gave us both a cordial greeting, upon introduction to me by Judge Thornton, and insisted upon our going to the House. It being still early, we agreed. The House is nothing extraordinary: of frame, and one story — but is tastefully and well furnished, with Books and Ornaments and Curios. The site is most commanding — visible far off at Sea — and from it a view of the Cliff House just below, of the Seal Rocks, of the Golden Gate entrance to the Harbor, and the Farrallone Islands, I'ising in to-day’s clear atmosphere out of the bosom of the unbounded Ocean — rolling towards us and dashing its waves in white surf along the Southern Shore — a vision worth the seeing — and we sat at the window, and for a good while, sipping refreshment, and talking, enjoyed it. When the time for our departure came, Mr. Sutro ordered his open Carriage and span of Trotters he bought from Senator Stanford, at some fabulous price, — the brothers of the one he lately sold to Bon- ner, of Electioneer Stock — Taylor well knows — and drove us back to the City. A spanking pair they were, as they sped over the broad, hard road through the Golden Gate Park — but not finer than Carter and Shawnee, maybe than Carter and Briggs now are, nor gayer in their bouncing gait. I wished Taylor could have held the Ribbons and tried them. SAN FRANCISCO. 65 I found at my Room a card from Mr. Eugene S. Tod, son of my fellow-passenger, Mr. Tod, on the San Bias. Same City and Hotel, Thursday, January 9, 1890. This morning, I walked to the Office of the S. S. Company and paid for my Room. On my return. Judge Thornton and I went to visit the Stock Exchange. On our way, I stopped in the Security and Savings Bank, to tell my friend Mr. Jones I could not dine with him to-morrow. The Exchange had adjourned, and we were compelled to postpone the sight. Mr. Sutro had given us a card of admission to the Library he is collecting, which he proposes to present to the City. He talked with us a good deal about it. He has been gathering it for many years here and abroad, and it already numbers more than two hundred thousand volumes — many of them very rare — and some valuable manuscripts. He wants to locate the Building in Golden Gate Park — now readily accessible by Steam and Cable Cars, and getting year by year, under the City’s growth, nearer to its centre. He thinks, too, it will be much safer from fire. He is troubled about the form of the Donation ; he wants to preserve it from the poli- ticians’ touch and taint, and desires the Trustees to be a self-perpetu- ating body, absolutely independent of political parties. We found some of them on shelves, stored in the second story of a large Building on Battery Street, 107 ; some were boxed up and preserved elsewhere. He has certainly collected a number of most interesting and valuable volumes; and his Donation to the City, when made, will be a magnificent benefaction. I wish I had time to mention a few of the Books the Custodian showed me, of especial value and interest. Whilst rummaging around, we came across a gentleman of similar tastes — with whom I engaged in conversation. He said he was an Englishman, had been living in California seven or eight years, had formerly lived in New Zealand. Our talk seemed to excite his interest in and draw him towards me; and he being a Student of Philology, and finding I knew something about it, he imagined I knew more than I did, and like Li Hung Chang, the Viceroy of 5 66 LETTER NO. 6. China, gave me credit for much more learning than I possessed. He said he knew Sir George Gray, one of England’s most eminent men, now living on one of the Islands not far from Auckland, where he has built himself a lovely home, filled with Art and Culture ; and their close and friendly relations justified him in giving me a Letter of Introduction — which he did, couched in most complimentary terms. Judge Thornton told him who I was ; our conversation, I suppose, led him to infer that I could talk in such a manner as would not be altogether void of interest to a man of Sir George’s tastes and acquire- ments. Anyway, he gave me the Letter, which I shall determine to use or not, hereafter. His name, from the card he presented, is J. W. Treadwell. I then called at the Office of Colonel Evan J. Coleman — but he was not in. After Lunch, the Judge and I took a Cable Car and went out to visit the Golden Gate Park and Cemeteries. I have told you something about these on my First Tour. They have very much improved since then, especially the former. It is really a wonder how the barren Sand Dunes have been converted into scenes of beauty — clothed with rich grass and luxuriant vegetation. Since I was here, a Monument has been erected to Garfield — a poor affair — standing upon a Pedestal with folded arms : — of General Halleck, rather better : — of Francis S. Key, sitting meditatively in Bronze, under a stone Canopy, guarded by defiant Eagles, and surmounted by the Genius of Liberty. The stone is badly selected and friable. The figure of Key is very fine, and the Eagles. On the Pedestal is inscribed the Star Spangled Banner. The whole a handsome Tribute given by the late Millionaire, James Lick. In the Cemetery, I admired the Monument of Latham, once Senator, to his Wife; and that erected by friends and admirers to Senator Broderick, who was killed by General Terry, you remembei’, in a duel — Terry, you remember, also, was himself killed recently by the U. S. Marshal, defending Judge Field from his attack. We returned about dark on the Cable Car, and thus ended the day. I found another card from my San Bias Friend, Captain Johnston, regretting my absence, and his inability to catch me ; and, also, two cards from Commodore Jefferson Maury — having called twice. And when I entered the Hotel on my return from the Park and Ceme- tery, I was cordially greeted in the Office by Phil. Dandridge, with SAN FRANCISCO. 67 whom I had some pleasaut chat. On the Street, Judge Thornton introduced me to Ex-Senator Fair, the Millionaire, and other pro- minent men, whose names I cannot recall. I had half undressed, and was about to go to Bed, when young Brookes Jones came in, to hear me talk about my travels. After he left I was soon asleep. Same City and Hotel, Friday, January 10, 1890. The Judge and I went to the Stock Exchange this morning at half-past nine o’clock; and I was interested in looking at the Brokers for an hour or so. The meeting was small, and the business dull. I did not witness the scene I once did in the Gold Board in New York, not long after the War, — or in the Paris Bourse — where in both places Pandemonium seemed let loose. Very quiet doings here in comparison ; the actors were respectable enough in their appear- ance and bearing. We then went to the Court Boom, where the Judge sits — a member of the highest Court in the State — composed of seven Members. The Court, like our Court of Appeals, holds its Sessions in several places : San Francisco, Sacramento, and Los Angeles — twice in each during the year. They have a fine Library, and for each Judge an admirable room for study. The Court was not in Session, and he introduced me to the Chief Justice of the State — Judge Beatty — with whom I had a good deal of talk — an intelligent, fine looking man. We talked of things above the range of simple Party Politics, and discussed themes which it would be well for our Country, had we Statesmen in Office able to consider. He is a Republican, but our conversation was above collision. I here left the Judge, and wandered about the City, visiting the City Hall and its adjuncts, upon which several millions have been spent, and yet unfinished — built of Brick and stuccoed — evidently a most costly affair. I have said, I think, something about it on my First Tour. Walking out by Post Street, I returned by Market, and stopped in to see Coleman at his Office, not far from this Hotel. He was in this time, but engaged with a client, and I wonld not stop. He said he had been to invite me to Dine; and he now pressed me to Lunch or Dine with him, but I declined — having already declined several others. 68 LETTER NO. 6. On my arrival at the Hotel, I found Colonel J. C. Maynard and Major M. C. Selden, both Virginians — the latter of whom I was earlier in the day introduced to by Judge Thornton — and we had a good, long, pleasant talk. I found, also, the cards of Mr. Adolph Sutro, ’and Captain J. C. Watson. It is very well that the time of my departure is nigh. I forgot to name another card, from Commodore Maury, accompanied by a Letter from him to Captain Morse of the Alameda Steamship, requesting him to do all good things for me as his passenger to New Zealand. He is certainly very kind. To Taylor: I enclose B. F. Brown’s Letter, also the Express Receipt for the small Box I sent home the other day, and the Labels for the Curios, which will explain themselves. I did not pay the Express. I enclose, also, Mr. Jones’ and Mrs. Maury’s Letters, thinking they would interest you — keep them. Mr. Winfield S. Jones called again and sat some time with me — wanted me to go home and Dine with him — and, also, brought me an invitation to a large Reception to-morrow. He said he was told in the Office of the Hotel, on his way to my Room, that the day for the Departure of the Steamer to Auckland had, on account of the waiting for the English Mails, been postponed from the Eleventh to the Fourteenth — from to-moiTow to next Tuesday. This, if true, is a great disappointment to me, and a great loss of time — time con- sumed here that could be utilized in New Zealand to much greater advantage. When Mr. Jones left, I went down and inquired, and the Clerk confirmed the information. I will, however, now finish this Letter, and write another and shorter one before I start. I am sure I cannot write too often. Just here. Judge Thornton came in and took me to his Room, where I spent the Evening with him and Mrs. Thornton and a young man by the name of Haymond, from Virginia, a grandson of Old General Haymond, who was for forty years a member of the Legislature from Monongahela County — now in West Virginia — a bright young man. He has lived in this Country for a year or two, and has just returned from a visit to Virginia. To Taylor : Judge Thornton thinks of paying a visit to his friends and relatives in the Old State in May or June. Should he carry out his design, he may pass through Winchester. If so, you must have SAN FRANCISCO. 69 him at the House, and drive him out to the Farm and about. I hope things will be looking well when he gets there. I will now close this. With tenderest love for all, • F. [No. 7.] My Dear Taylor , — San Francisco, Occidental Hotel, Saturday, January 11, 1890. This morning, I despatched to you No. 6, addressed to Mary. In it I told how much disappointed I was to learn that the sailing of the Steamer for Auckland had been postponed to the Fourteenth — next Tuesday. It is disappointing, because there is no way here to utilize my time — my friends would overwhelm me with attentions, would I allow it — but I am familiar with the City and its surround- ings and their objects of interest, and in writing to you, I am simply, I fear, ‘‘telling a twice told tale.” I do not remember to what extent I described them to you on my former Tours. On the con- trary, the time consumed here could be much more profitably spent in New Zealand, and the other Countries I propose to visit — which are new both to me and to you all, for whose amusement these Letters are intended. I inquired again of the Clerk in the Office of the Hotel, hoping he might be mistaken : but he told me the information was official. After Breakfast, the morning being fine, I walked down to the Landing, and saw the Captain and Purser, who likewise confirmed the fact of the postponement of the day of sailing. This made me easy with regard to the certainty ; but not at all better satisfied. Being, however, a matter over which I have no control, I will sub- mit “ without any more ado,” as old Dr. Hill used to say, when, having read his Text, he jumped, with his remarkable force, into the middle of his subject. I then strolled further along the Slips, and observed the Vessels tied up, loading and unloading, manifesting, in their number and 70 LETTER NO. 7. size, the large Commercial import of San Francisco. Indeed, I have in one mode or other been over nearly all the City, and I cannot fail to see the growth since 1882, manifested in every way, not only on the Water’s edge, but over its entire area, both in the number of its new buildings. Business and Dwelling, and in their beauty — in some cases, magnificence. Most of the Dwelling houses are frame and weather-boarded, but of different styles of Architecture — and many singularly handsome. I went to the Pacific Mail S. S. Wharf and called on my Friends, the Captain and Officers of the San Bias ; who had all been to see me at the Hotel. They gave me a cordial welcome ; and I invited the Captain to take Breakfast with me to-morrow. On my return, I called in at the Express Office of Wells, Fargo & Co., and saw my Friend Langtry; and I went thence to the Bank and found your Letter of January 2, and three bundles of Papers — which speedily put a stop to my wandering. In my Room, I found Commodore Maury’s card. I am really annoyed that I should thus miss the numerous visits that he has so courteously paid me. I note what you say about altering the Shoe Factory House. I have no doubt it is the best thing you can do. With the prevailing tastes and needs, the Store Room is too small. The only apprehen- sion is, that you may find it hard to rent the upper apartments, with- out a lower or ground floor Room to go with them. But I don’t know what else you could have done. Be careful to see when they heighten the front windows that they support the walls well ; that there be no sinking. There is a slight depression now, caused by previous alterations. I would put an Iron Cellar Door in front ; and right up the wall of the small one on Water Street, and at the grate in the yard. I enclose you a Check, to help you in the work. Be careful you do not — in clearing out the Store Room — take away the supports of the upper stories. Take care, also, that no heavy or thugging machinery is put in the second and third stories by Schneider, or any one else. I am happy to know you are getting on finely at home, and the neighbors are all well. Remember me in return to John Boyd, and Miss Harriette, and inquiring friends — never forgetting Cousin Mary. I found Stuart Baldwin’s name in the Directory — the Firm of McAtee & Baldwin — not far from this Hotel, on Montgomery Street, and called to see him. His partner told me he and hi& wife were SAN FRANCISCO. 71 absent in Virginia. Your Letter confirms it. I left a note, regret- ting that he was away. His partner said he was a fine fellow, and wanted him to come back. It is a handsome Office, and things look healthy. From their appearance, I hope they are doing well. Tell Cousin Mary. Young Mr. Raymond called to see me. He says he is afflicted with Rheumatism — and last night had a return of it. He went to Virginia for the benefit of his health ; and fears this City will not suit him. After I had gone to Bed, Judge Thornton came in, and sitting by my side, we talked for several hours. In the course of our con- versation, I asked him if he knew Stuart Baldwin ? he said he did, and spoke very highly of him, and his prospects — said he had, also, married the Daughter of a man of wealth. You must tell Cousin Mary this, too. It will greatly gratify her. You say you have heard nothing further about the Hotel. I don’t think you will. The Grippe has reached you at last. I see, from the Papers, it has swept over the Country East of the Mississippi. But the people out here do not fear it, because no Epidemic of any sort has ever been able to cross the Mountains. This is a misplaced confidence, they will find one of these days. Certainly, it has not yet arrived. The unprecedented quantity of bad weather, of which I have frequently spoken, has not induced disease. The Country claims to be unusually healthy. I have not had a cold since I left home. Have I mentioned your failure to report the balance of the Wheat Crop ? what the amount, and price ? I met my Friend Sutro — or rather was hailed by him from his Buggy — on the Street. He drove up, and we had some talk — espe- cially about his Library. He had heard from the Custodian of our visit, and was much pleased when he communicated to him my com- ments upon his proposed Donation to the City. I told him he could not make a more beneficent disposition of his money, and he ought not to delay ; for the danger of Fire, in their present location, was great, and if destroyed, many volumes in his fine collection could not be replaced. He said he highly appreciated my opinion and advice, and would act upon it. 72 LETTER NO. 7. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, January 12, 1890. The rain poured down all day — a return of bad weather, after an intermission of three or four days. I, consequently, did not go out. I finished reading up the Papers you sent me. I found nothing in them upon which to comment — nothing of import a-doing in the Legislature or in Congress. I am anxious to see my Friend Governor McKinney’s Inaugural. I want to learn what his views are with regard to the Debt. You remember, when I urged him to manfully take hold of and settle it — which could easily, with intelligent and courageous effort, be done — he promised that my anxious advice should be heeded and followed. Has he the vigor to lead? For in such a vital issue, the Governor — after all the demoralizing nonsense that has been talked — must lift the people to a higher plane of thought. Let us pray, that he has the courage of his convictions — a trait and a blessing not vouchsafed to many men. After Lunch, Mr. Arthur Rogers, inti’oduced to me a day or two ago, a Lawyer of standing and one of the Regents of the California University, called to see me. He is from Tennessee. We had a long, pleasant talk. I alluded to the mixed male and female system prevailing in that Institution, and expressed my views with regard to the outcome of such a System, especially under such a Government as ours. It is pernicious, and that continually. Woman’s influence in her proper s])here is powerful for good ; out of it, of little import, or positively vicious. In the Domestic and Social circles, she adorns and beautifies the Home, and from it sends out perennial influences through every department of Society and Government — for she im- parts those lofty qualities to the young, which tell upon the destinies of the Race. In her own person on the Public arena, she ever is, instead of strength, an element of weakness. That devotion which makes men do and dare on the highest fields of thought and action under her inspiration, utterly vanish when she appears in person to achieve, what her very organization forbids. The Material Civilization under which we live, has broken many sacred images, bearing blessings of noblest import, let us save ourselves from that meanest of all Icono- clasms, the overthrow of woman in her high and holy mission. My SAN FBANCISOO. 73 Friend took my remarks in good part, but was not able to respond — in this view, who can ? The Judge joined us — of course he and I agreed — we are both too old to catch on to the new-fangled monstrosities which are constantly coming along, and disturbing, to our sober views, the eternal fitness of things. The weather prevented Captain Johnston from coming to Break- fast. It just occurs to me — keep your eye on my Tours now lent out — my absence may make the bori’owers careless ; and they may be destroyed, or stolen by others, or lost — which you know, for many reasons, would be very serious — being written solely for private use. You have the List. I think you are right to call the extra Copies in, and lend out only the number you suggested. Same City and Hotel, Monday, January 13, 1890. To-day, again, is clear and beautiful, as yesterday was cloudy and forbidding. Young Haymond came in this morning, and proposed that we take train for Menlo Park, more especially to see the Leland Stan- ford University, now building, the most costly endowment ever made in this Country, — amounting, it is said, to more than ten millions of dollars. The proposition came too late for the mid-day train. When we went out and inquired, we found we could not reach the Station by the schedule time, and gave up the trip. Menlo Park is distant thirty miles from the City, and any later train would not have given us time to have seen it and returned this afternoon. Whilst out, I went to the Bank, hardly expecting to get a Letter, thinking you had begun to write before this to New Zealand. But I was most agreeably disappointed, and received Margaret’s of Janu- ary 5th : with how much pleasure, I need not say. Of course, this healed my disappointment about Menlo, and I returned to my Room to read it. To Margaret: Your Letter gave me Photographs of both Charles- town and Winchester, and kept me on foot with the current of events in the sober-sided old towns — not leaving me in ignorance of their festive features — in which now and then, and here and there, they 74 LETTER NO. 7. make bold to say, they cannot and shall not be outdone by bigger, if not older places. I am gratified that Mary brings to you from Winchester, where she sjjent some days with Taylor, good accounts of the comfortable manner in which he is getting on in his household affairs : — how Mack keeps sober, and the arrangement about his sleeping in the Office works well : — how Topsy has got back from her Christmas jaunt, and fallen regularly into place again : — how Mr. Topsy seems to have disappeared from the scene, and relieved the streets of his drunken staggers and Taylor from anxiety and disgust: — how Taylor is interested in his new enterprise of remodelling the corner House — thinks it a good thing to do ; — how Lewis and the Rector gently charged the Choir with being somewhat, if not altogether, responsible for the late Fire, which came so near burning up our Church, and how a member of said Choir knocked their ignorance into silence, and established her reputation both as a champion of Musical good order, and a hitter from the shoulder. Poor Rector and Warden — both went down, and under ! and the Choir was saved as by fire ” from the charge of Arson ! Good for the Champion, and Lightweight shoulder-hitter ; bad for the Church ! How the phases of Society now and then get slightly mixed, and pedigrees are read and ancestral trees examined, and nobody can tell what troubles may ensue, before the much-a-do is settled. I am glad Cousin Fred is better. Give her my love, and tell her I hope she will soon be entirely well again. I hope you and Mary may have a pleasant visit to Baltimore. Give my love to the Doctor, and tell him when the Letter reaches me on my Travels he shall certainly know it. I hear coughing and sneezing about the Hotel — maybe the Grippe has come. I hope I may get off before it gets to me. It has, however, only a short time now, for I hope certainly to go to-morrow. I trust nothing will further detain our Ship. Young Edgar Haymond told me he had seen a Telegram from Virginia, which reported Governor McKinney to have sent a Message to the Legislature, advising them to stick to the Riddleberger Bill and its wretched offspring, and maintain and sustain them by all needful Legislation. This, if true, is sad news; and entails upon our State still further dishonor, and on our people accumulated woes. Never has there been, or will there be, any time more favorable for an honorable and satisfactory settlement than now. The people have SAN FBANCISCO. 75 just come out of a noble victory, and are flushed with high endeavor. They are weary of the miserable issue, and looking for a brave man to lead them ; the Leader of the hosts just now defeated has com- mitted his followers. The Creditors are ready for a compromise, and there is nothing easier than a settlement. The one who ought to lead, falters ; and another term of disreputable fight is before us — the end of which is a blasting, blighting overthrow of the good name of our Dear Old Commonwealth. It is better “to take arms against a sea of troubles, And by opposing, end them.” Far better to confront and by integrity end the troubles which spring from the burdens that attend the keeping of our faith. But enough of this — we have had it for years, ad nauseam : yet it ought ever to be fresh and new ! Has our Governor utterly forgotten our talk ? and clean broken down before the responsibility? My good Friend Commodore Maury came again to see me. Happily, I was at my Room and saw him, and we had a pleasant talk. I gave him a Letter I had written to him and Mrs. Maury — not expecting to see him — expressive of my appreciation of their kindness and courtesy. I dropped in to see Winfield Jones for a moment or two, to bid him Good Bye ! and had some pleasant chat. He regretted much that I did not go to his friend Mrs. Friedlander’s Reception — it was very large — and after it a Dinner for forty of the Guests. The Evening, for a couple of hours, I spent with my Friends Judge and Mrs. Thornton — pleasantly as usual. They gave me a Bottle of Brandy — which the Judge said was wonderfully fine — and a Bottle of Cologne — which Mrs. Thornton pronounced equal in its qualities — both presents to them from their friends ; and I parted with hosts of pleasant memories for them both. Should the Judge get to Win- chester, you must not forget to show him our Old Houie — he will enjoy it like a Virginian, and appreciate its tender associations, and not wonder at all, that we love it. And now, at ten o’clock, I will close this Letter and go to Bed. To-morrow morning, before I leave the Hotel for the Ship, I will mall it. With tenderest love for all, F. 76 LETTER NO. 7. I will try to send a Letter from the Sandwich Islands. After that you must not get impatient if you do not hear for a good while — the Journey to New Zealand and back is long, both in distance and time. Continue to write to Auckland, till I request the contrary. As at present advised, I will make it my forwarding point. F. [Befox’e leaving San Francisco, I told my Friends Judge Thornton and Mr. Winfield S. Jones, that upon my arrival at Home, at the end of the Tour, I would write, and give them a running account of the Countries and Climes I visited, and my experiences of Travel. I did so, and received the following Letters, which I here print, thinking they are of sufficient interest to be perpetuated with the story of the Tour. San Francisco, October 9, 1890. Hon. Fred. W. M. Holliday, My Dear Governor , — I thank you for your bright, breezy, newsy, entertaining Letter, which I read with much pleasure. I congratulate you in reaching home again in good health and spirits, — the better, your Letter plainly showed, after your most interesting Tour around the World. Well, my Dear Friend, I did pay my long-expected and desired visit to Virginia during the past Summer. I went into the State on the 14th of June and left it on the 2d of July, after the most delightful and charming sojourn of eighteen days that a man ever had. Eveiy moment of my stay among the people of my native State was filled with a happiness I cannot express in words. It was my first visit after an absence of thirty-six years. My cup was filled to overflowing. I saw all of my nearest relations and many of my old friends. Every one seemed to be pleased to see me, and I know I was pleased to see every one. I was at the University of Virginia for several days, and had it in full contemplation to go to Winchester to see your Brother. I could with ease have gone from the University to Winchester and returned on the same day or the next morning, and have with a bold face by your direction and authority introduced SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER FROM JAMES D. THORNTON. 77 myself to your Brother, enjoyed bis society and hospitality for a few hours at least, and have learned of your rovings. But most unex- pectedly my plans were deranged by the necessity imposed on me of turning aside from them to visit a relative — which took one day, and this broke up my designed Excursion to Winchester. You know what often happens to “ the best laid plans of mice and men.” Mine went awry, as so frequently occurs in Life’s vicissitudes. I sliould have enjoyed a visit to your home much, I know. I was curious and desirous of seeing the classic Valley of the beloved Old State in crossing the lower portion of it years ago on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The consolation remains, that it is a pleasure which yet lies in the future. Mrs. Thornton and I missed you much after you left our City. Judge Deady, of Oregon, and his wife were going on the same Steamer as far as Honolulu, and I took the liberty of telling him to intx’oduce himself and Mrs. Deady promptly to you, as he would find you a charming companion. I saw him on his return, and he told me he had a delightful time with you. You will bo pleased to learn that the Judge was much improved in health by his sojourn in the Islands. We have talked much of you, since you vanished from our midst. It would be charming to have you come about twice a year, laden with news of Virginia and Virginians. But such good luck cannot be expected. While in Virginia, I went from Charlottesville to Richmond, from Richmond to Petersburg, thence to Farmville, thence to Hamp- den Sidney College, thence through Cumberland County to visit my relatives in the County of Powhatan, thence to Richmond, to Williamsburg, and back to Richmond, thence returning to the Uni- versity, reaching there on the 3d of June, remaining with my Nephew, William M. Thornton, Professor of Applied Mathematics, till the forenoon of the 2d of July, when I took my departure on the after- noon of the day last named for California. From all I could learn, I came to the conclusion that Virginia was in a fairly prosperous condition, and that an astonishing advance would manifest itself within the next ten and twenty years. Whatever destiny, my Dear Governor, may be her’s, may God bless her and her dear people ! I am sure God loves the Old State ! 78 LETTER NO. 7. My Wife and I are much gratified at being so kindly remembered by you, I shall be greatly pleased to receive a line from you at any time, and I will try and send you something in reply. And now, with kindest wishes and high regard and esteem, I remain, yours most truly, James D. Thornton. Before leaving Home on my Seventh Tour, through France, Italy, and Egypt, I wrote to my Friend, Judge Thornton, telling him of my intention. I received the following response in Marseilles, France, forwarded by my Brother Taylor. San Francisco, California, August 20, 1891. Hon. Fred. W. M. Holliday, My Dear Governor , — I am delighted to receive your charming Letter, which reached me on the evening of the 18th inst. My Wife and I had been talking of you but a few days before its arrival, probably about the time it was written, on the 4th of the month. I obey the impulse to send you a reply at once, which may reach you somewhere on your extensive Tour. When I think of you my mind recurs to our Native State, so dear to our hearts, and I medi- tate on our future with deep and abiding interest. I think as you do of Booms. They may do some good : but more harm than good. When in Virginia last Summer, I kept my eyes open and ears, too. I observed everything in sight which I could see during my brief sojourn within its borders ; and I talked with every one I met about its prosperity and growth, and I became convinced that the Old State was on the Eve of an advance, of which few within its borders had any conception. From what I have heard since I passed the Western boundary of the State on the morning of the 3d of July, 1890, my anticipations are becoming realities. I expressed myself in the terms above indicated to several of my friends and relatives in Virginia. They said they felt much encouragement as to the future of the State. I am of opinion that the material advancement of Virginia in the next twenty years will exhibit an increase of wealth ten times greater than has ever taken place in any score of years of her existence, and SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER FROM JAMES D. THORNTON. 79 probably the increment dnring the period mentioned will be greater than that of her entire previous life. This may seem to you very extravagant, and may produce a smile of incredulity. You may say, the man’s love for his Native State has alFected the poise of his judg- ment; the ‘‘wish” with him is “father to the thought.” This may be so; but I am firmly of the opinion, that the prediction will be verified. My grounds for the opinion are, mainly, the abundance of money in the world seeking investment; the cheapness of land in Virginia; its abundant resources, particularly in Coal and Iron ; its climate and location in the centre of the Line of States along the Atlantic Coast ; the great arena for investment, and profitable investment, too, in Africa and the Southern States, the latter far in the lead — the esti- mate that from three to four thousand millions of dollars have gone into the South for investment within the last thirteen years. This estimate cannot be considered wild or unreliable, as it comes from intelligent men, who know what they talk of. Apropos of this, a gentleman of this City sent me yesterday morning an Article written by the Duke of Marlborough and published in the New York Herald of the 10th of May last. It was published in the Herald in advance of its publication in London. The Herald states that it is “the Report of the Duke of his recent tour of inspection,” “ through the Iron and Coal regions of the South,” and that “ upon receiving his Report, hundreds of English Capitalists would decide whether or not to make contemplated investments.” The Report is highly favorable in every respect. His Grace, you know, is perhaps something of a blackguard, but want of sense is the least of his failings. He has the reputation all over England of being a man of ability, as has his Brother, Lord Randolph Churchill. I look for big investments in Virginia in consequence of this Report. He mentions the Old State frequently in his Report, and with most favorable remarks as to her climate and resources. Well, now, you say what of all this? What good will wealth do the Virginians ? It will undoubtedly enable the State to keep pace with the advancing Civilization of the World — to pay her Debts and provide for the Education of her people. I have my doubts whether Riches will improve the real, typical Virginian. But he will have an opportunity to try it. I hope he will come out of the trial all right, mentally and morally, and with full pockets. Though I like 80 LETTER NO. 7. the prayer to be delivered from temptation, yet I am willing that the dear people of the unterrified Commonwealth may be subjected to the trial, which such a state of things may bring about. I indulge the hope that the trial will bring no evil. I shall never cease to regret that I did not go to Winchester and see your Brother, while I was at the University, where I spent several days with my Nephew. I was anxious, if I could not see you, to see your Brother, and have a look at the far-famed Valley where was gathered the illustrious Stonewall Brigade. I was extremely desirous of seeing Winchester, that noted town which was taken and retaken eighty-three times during our Civil War. I feel now that I lost much in not seeing your beautiful Valley. If God spares my life, I hope to drop down on you some day, when we can roam over the Classic spots rendei’ed famous through all time by heroism and valor. When it will be I cannot now say. But I hope and trust it will yet come. I have crossed the Valley on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad many years ago, when going from Baltimore to Cumberland by the way of Harper’s Ferry. This was in November, 1845. Last Sum- mer, I crossed it on the 2d of July, in going from Charlottesville, by way of Staunton and Clifton Forge, to Huntington. I have yet to go along it. This I was anxious to do, and I anticipate that pleasure yet, at some day in the future. My Wife has just returned home to-day from a brief visit to our daughter and her husband. Captain John C. Watson. Captain W. is stationed at the Mare Island Navy ^ard. She will be as much pleased to hear from you as I was. She is in most excellent health. • My own health is fairly good. We are more than a year older than we were when you last saw us, and are now properly numbered with the old people. My term of Judge expired at the beginning of this year, and I have again resumed practice. The printing on the first page of the sheet will inform you where my Office is located. We have been much distressed by the intelligence received yester- day of the death of two of our Grandchildren at Santa Monica, Los Angeles County, California, which occurred on the morning of that day. The deceased were the children of my daughter Maggie, who married Mr. Abbot Kierney. The news came by a Telegram, handed to me while sitting at Breakfast. I am disposed to submit without a murmur to such dispensations. They are ordered in infinite wisdom. SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER FROM JAMES D. THORNTON. 81 and should evoke neither complaint nor murmur. Nevertheless, they wound and wring the heart. My Wife is making the necessary arrangements to repair to Santa Monica for a brief sojourn with our Daughter and Son-in-Law, to minister to them such solace as her society can afford. I trust that you may have a pleasant and instructive Tour, and return home in good health and more in love with your Native Land than ever. You have before you a most delightful Itinerary. I shall send this to Winchester, care of your Brother, who will forward it as directed. If you have time, you can drop for me a line while on your Travels : perhaps from the Piraeus or the Aci’opolis, or maybe from the Holy City or Damascus. My Wife joins me in kindest regards to you, and with assurances of highest esteem and regard, I remain. Truly your friend, James D. Thornton. The foregoing Letter, as I have remarked, was forwarded to me by my Brother Taylor and received at Marseilles. I carried it with me on my Travels and answered it on the Nile — mailing it in Cairo, Egypt, February 13, 1892. After my return home from that Tour, I received a San Francisco Paper of April 6, 1893, giving a graphic account of the murder of one of Judge Thornton’s sons, Harry I. Thornton, in Arizona, and the search for and finding of his body by another son, Crittenden Thornton. I at once wrote to Judge and Mrs. Thornton a Letter of deepest sympathy, and received the following response. San Francisco, California, May 15, 1893. Hon. F. W. M. Holliday, My Dear Governor , — Yours of 28th ult. reached me in due course. It was read with interest by Mrs. Thornton and myself, and is highly appreciated. Its assurances of sympathy are very gratifying. We thank you for them. I well remember your interesting Letter written on the great River of Egypt, and the reading your account of your Travels thrilled and 6 82 LETTER NO. 7. delighted me. It was so full of many interesting allusions, that I almost envied you in your enjoyment of your wanderings. But my sympathy with you in your pleasure and delight, repressed anything like envious feeling. How much you have seen ! What charms you have enjoyed, and how much you can tell of interesting scenes and phases of life you have encountered ! How I should like to meet you once more, and have a long talk with you about your Travels ! I do not know that I can accomplish it, but if I can I shall leave here some time in September next, spend some time in Chicago in seeing the wonders of the Great Exposition, and from thence go to Virginia, to see my only living Sister. If I come, I most assuredly will give myself the pleasure of a visit to Winchester, to shake hands and have some talk with my beloved Friend Governor Holliday. I cannot say, so far in advance, what I may be able to do when September comes ; but I do hope to accomplish another visit to my Native State before I depart from this World. I should enjoy a visit to Winchester exceedingly. It is a Historic and Classic locality, situ- ated in a beautiful and fertile Country, settled by an industrious and intelligent people. I very much wish to see the Valley of Virginia. I have read and heard so much of it, that my curiosity has been whetted to a high degree to see it in its beauty and grandeur, and I feel assured that I could not see the famous Valley under a more pleasant guidance than that of yourself. I have been much gratified to hear thSt the Legislature of Virginia at its last Session passed a Law for the settlement of the State Debt, which was satisfactory to the Bondholders. I trust the business has gone through to completion in a manner satisfactory to all concerned, sustaining the integrity and honor of the Venerable Commonwealth. I am engaged in my old work, practicing Law. My Office is shown on the first page of this sheet. I took up the practice of my Profession soon after I left the Bench in January, 1891. My young- est son. Jack, — John T. Thornton — came to my Office to read Law. He studied veiy well — took to the work kindly, and some time in July or August last, he applied for admission to the Bar. He passed, as I was assured by the Judges of our Supreme Court, who examined him, a very creditable Examination. I was not present, but the Judges just mentioned told me that he did not miss a question. The examination is conducted in open Court, in the pi'esence of at least three of the Judges, and is, as you know, a trying ordeal to a young SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER FROM JAMES D. THORNTON. 83 man. Under the circumstances, I was much pleased that he came through so well. He is now my Partner, and I am endeavoring with his aid to build up a Practice, so as to give him a start in the race for a living. I trust that he will be able to fight the Battle of Life bravely, and attain a respectable standing among his fellow-men. I shall be satisfied if my children attain and maintain a respectable standing. When you speak of a family as a respectable family, do you not accord it what men generally are satisfied to attain ? In conclusion, my Dear Friend, I recur again to your Letter. It came as a solace and comfort to the wounded hearts of my Wife and myself. The blow we had sustained was a terrific one. I do not know that I ever saw ray Wife so much distressed, under any affliction. Your words of sympathy will long be with us a grateful recollection. My Wife joins me in the assurances of high regard and kind wishes for you. Remember me to your Brother. I was pleased to have a message of kindness from him. Assure him of my best wishes. Please write me. I shall be gratified to hear from you at any time. I will try and send you something in resjDonse ; whether it will repay you for yours, I cannot say : but at any rate I will make the effort. And now, with assurances of esteem and regard, I remain. Very truly your Friend, James D. Thornton. P. S. — I should not omit to state that our friend Judge Deady spoke to me of you most kindly on his return from the Sandwich Islands, after his Voyage with you. He was much delighted by his intercourse with you. He said, “ We discussed many subjects — on some we agreed, on others we differed ; but nothing disagreeable in the slightest occurred between us during the whole trip.” Truly yours, J. D. T. I received the following Letter from my Friend Mr. Winfield S. Jones, in response to one of courtesy I wrote to him on my return Home at the end of the Tour. 84 LETTER NO. 8. Security Savings Bank, 228 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, September 2, 1890. To Ex-Governor F. W. M. Holliday, Winchester, Va. : My Dear Governor, — Your welcome favor of August 27 arouses the query often in my thoughts as to where and how you are ? To be at Home and in good health are much to be thankful for, and I am pleased to know that yon are at least blessed to this extent. I should enjoy beyond expression meeting you again, and hearing of your Travels, and will indulge the hope of realizing both one of these days. Will it not soon be time to begin the preparation of your Book on the Peoples and Countries you have visited on your several Tours? I would lay aside Stanley’s latest for a work such as yours will be. Brooks is ofiP on a Business Trip. He will be pleased to learn of your safe arrival in Virginia, and would send Messages were he at home. Vfith very best wishes. Believe me. Sincerely yours, Winfield S. Jones.] [No. 8.] Steamship Alameda, Oceanic Line, Harbor of San Francisco, Tuesday, January 14, 1890. My Dear Margaret , — This morning I mailed No. 7 to Taylor at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco. I told you in it, that you must now look for Letters at much longer intervals — the distances are widening. I hope to be able to mail this in Honolulu, that it may hurry back to you, whilst I go travelling on. SAN FRANCISCO. 85 By nine o’clock I had eaten my Breakfast, settled my Bill, fixed things for my departure, and was with my Baggage in a Coach and on my way to the Steamer which heads this Letter. I was thus early, that I might get things aboard before the crowd came ; and quietly look around. My Room is a good one, and I am happy to say, I have it alone. We were to have left at midday. Soon the not palatable news came, that we would be still further delayed — waiting yet longer for the English Mail across the Continent. We have, you perceive, already lost three days. This Line is under contract with the Brit- ish Govei’nment to carry its Mail from San Francisco to the Colonies, and is therefore under obligation to wait its arrival. Storms on the Atlantic and snows among the Mountains have detained it. How long we have yet to wait who knows ? I, therefore, determined to not bother about the matter, but take things easy till the Steamer’s Ladyship was ready to go ; knowing full well that my bother would have no effect on her hurry. The day was pleasant and I walked the Deck, looking at the people coming and going. There were a good many who appeared to be passengers, and the promise seemed to be of a pretty large list. But the display was not like that of which I have told you several times, when the send-off comes to one of the Atlantic Steamships, starting upon her voyage to Europe. The Landing and Steamer here are of less import, as are, also, the cities and countries, the termini of their run. Among them all, I did not know one. It looked rather gloomy not to know a single person aboard. But this has happened to me many a time before — soon acquaintanceship springs up, and it is singular, how upon a long voyage we pass and meet, till, after awhile, the Ship becomes a common gronnd, upon which each knows every other. At the end of our journey the set is broken up and scattered, and a new one formed, in its own turn to meet the same fate. I doubt not I will know most of my comrades before our parting day. I was interested in watching the taking on of passengers and cargo. Among them was a family of Chinese brought to us in a Tug. The owner of it did not land his charge upon the wharf, but came to the side of the Vessel towards the water, and called for an officer. He said the Law forbade his landing any of that nationality upon Cali- fornia soil, and the ship must take them directly from his Tug. 86 LETTER NO. 8. This was soon understood, and the Quartermaster came. There were fiv^e Chinese, two men, a woman, and two small children. The ques- tion was how to get them from the low Tug to the high Deck of the Steamer, twelve or fifteen feet : the means of ascent was a rope-ladder hung perpendicularly from the bulwarks — quite a climb for anybody — a serious one for the children and for the woman with her little distorted feet. The men succeeded very well ; one of the children, quite an infant, of course could not ; the other, a little fellow of eight or ten years, probably not so old, was told to climb, and with- out demur went at it. I suggested to the Quartermaster to let down a chair, but the brutal fellow refused, saying he could not make the boy any bigger, or give the woman bigger feet ; they must manage the best they could. The boy undertook his work with the compo- sure and pertinacity of his Race, and without help mounted the rope. His countenance, as he climbed, was full of resolution, but when he reached the Steamer’s Deck he became deathly sick, through the nervous strain he had undergone. The Officer seemed then for the first to see the outrage he was guilty of, for he had proposed that the woman should climb into the ship by the same mode — which would have been impossible, for she could not use her feet upon level ground without assistance — and then it occurred to him to open the low iron portal of the vessel, used for the taking on of freight. I mention this incident to show, not only the vigor of these Celestials, old and young, but the manner in which they are treated by the people of this Coast, whose antipathy to them is great beyond expression. And whilst this treatment by an employee of a Line on which they had purchased passage was most brutal and unjustifiable, yet the opposi- tion to their coming is, without any doubt, well founded. This we have talked about enough on former Tours. I found in my room, my friend J. H. Langtry’s card with this endorsement : “ Good Bye ! and a pleasant voyage. Stanley’s Trail through the Dark Continent will be your next.” He had missed seeing me — not knowing I was on Deck. I ought to tell you the tragic story of Joe Baldwin’s life and family, given me last night by Mrs. Thornton. You know whom I mean — the author of “ Flush Times in Alabama,” and “ Party Leaders.” You saw him, you remember, in Winchester just before he moved to California to live. He, soon after his arrival here, won great distinction as a Lawyer and man of talents, and was elevated STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 87 to the Bench, where he maintained his former and won fresh reputa- tion. He was naturally a brilliant man, and his wife was equally brilliant, a Miss White of our Winchester family, I believe, though he married her in the South. They had seven children, five boys and two girls. The former afl reached manhood — and were all tal- ented — two aiet violent deaths : one by the Indians, one on the Rail- road ; the others died of disease — generally consumption. Of the girls — both brilliant — one married Judge Felton, an eminent man, who died young ; his widow soon followed. Judge Joe Baldwin died of Lockjaw, I think before any of his family. The repeated dread- ful blows fell upon his widow — who still lives, with one daughter, the sole survivor of the large family. This true story surpasses tragedy in its sorrowful incidents. The day clouded up as it progressed, and when I went to bed the promise of weather was not good for the morrow — nor was the promise of the missing Mail any better. I learn the Captain is aboard, but has the Grippe. The ugly disease has come, notwithstanding all predictions to the contrary. On Same Steamee, Pacific Ocean, San Feancisco to Honolulu, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, January 15, 16 and 17, 1890. At seven o’clock on Wednesday morning we passed through the Golden Gate out upon the Great Ocean — this time to cross it. The Mail, in large volume, I was told, came last night and was safely put aboard. Our long delay was at an end, and to my delight we started upon our voyage. My time was spent most pleasantly in San Francisco ; but I felt all the while, it was that much abstracted from the days I would otherwise spend at home upon the terminus of my Tour : and I was glad when the Steamer set out upon its race. It is a good Ship, of three thousand tons, and quite well appointed ; but, of course, not to compare with the Atlantic Steamers. We have between eighty and one hundred first-class passengers — thirty-two for the Sandwich Islands; only five of us for Auckland; the balance for Sydney, Australia, the terminus of the Steamer’s run. When we steamed through the Golden Gate, out upon the Ocean’s bosom, we were not hospitably received. Soon clouds overspread the 88 LETTER NO. 8. sky, the winds arose, and the waves with them, and tossed us roughly. For the three days which head this Letter has this treatment con- tinued — the Fiddles all the time upon the table to keep the things in order ; and rarely more than eight or ten appearing at the meals — the rest scattered in their cots about the ship helplessly. My good Sea-going qualities kept with me, and I surveyed the field calmly and preserved my equipoise. The Sea and I continue good friends, and no question of disagreement ever happens. I have never in my thousands of miles of travel over this Ocean, seen it in such a frame of mind ; though you will recall, that my travels along its rim and over its huge bulk have been generally in more genial seasons — in Spring or Summer. The Officers of the Steamer, however, say that it is unusually rough, and they have rarely at any time seen it so ill-tempered. No violent storm, like those I told you of on the Arctic and Atlantic, has tossed us, but enough of wind to plough deep waves, which bear the heavy Ship upon their backs, and pitch her to and fro, and up and down con- temptuously. Thus these three days have gone, and I have not been able to write a line ; even if I had, I hardly know what I would have written — only, that the days came and went, with their three meals of Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner — set for everybody, but with scarce anybody to partake. Each day we looked for better weather — the Officers thus promised — but better did not come ; and I have profited to this extent, that I now, from experience, for the first time learn, that this good Ocean does not always deserve its gentle name. Of course, no land appears to engage our attention, nor can any, till we sight the Hawaiian Islands ; nor, strange to say, has a single Vessel, smoke or sail, loomed up upon the Sea, nor a single bird to adorn the air, nor a single living thing to stir the water. We have the Ocean, in its barren ruggedness, to ourselves alone. Most of the time the Sky has been overcast with clouds, and the waves have been murky and forbidding. But we are travelling fast toward Summer Seas, and, doubtless, soon we will pass into a different sphere, with all its attendant beauties. My seat is presumed to be one of honor, at the Captain’s table. By my side are Hon. Mathew P. Deady, U. S. District Judge from Oregon, and his wife ; opposite, Hon. Godfrey Brown, late Minister of Foreign Affairs under the Hawaiian Government, a pleasant, intelligent gentleman, now returning to Honolulu from a short visit STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 89 to California ; the other seats opposite, thus near the table-end, have, by reason of the unjileasant weather, not yet shown their occupants. Nor has the Captain’s chair been filled : — I remarked already, that when we left the Harbor he was sick — we have it now, that his sick- ness is by no means slight — the Grippe has grown into threatened Pneumonia, and fears are entertained by his brother Officers that the spell may be serious. He has been confined to his bed — happily his wife is with him. Judge and Mrs. Heady I saw in the Dining Room of the Hotel Occidental ; but did not make their acquaintance then. To-day, Friday, he appeared at the table for the first time — Mrs. D. has not yet come — both being /lors du combat by the Sea’s unruly manners. The Judge and I greeted each other like old time friends, for he knew of me by reputation and I had learned of him, and being a Marylander from the Eastern. Shore — or Sho’, as he said it ought properly to be and had ever been pronounced by those who lived there and ought to know — we soon were easy to each other, like ancient shoes. He is a large and handsome man, and has the bearing of a gentleman who wears his title easily. He told me he had been in Oregon forty years or thereabouts — went there when the Country was born, and had been upon the Bench in one Court or another during nearly all that time. He has kept abreast of our Virginia affairs, and knew well the story of my doings, and spoke his approval in highest terms. He is now broken down with hard and long-con- tinued work, and is seeking rest in the Hawaiian Islands — evidently a man once of magnificent physique — evidently, too, now nearing his seventieth year — broken by the bow being too long strung. I fear, like many a man before him in our Country, he has begun too late, and he will find no permanent health-restoring rest short of that which ends the search. Whilst on this subject, I have met several young men on board — one from Minneapolis, one from Chicago, and one from San Francisco — worn out with labor and anxiety, looking for sleep — the fierce Insomnia on their trail. This, you will recall, is a frequent incident on my travels. I met a San Franciscan, who told me he was once an Officer, which afforded him large field and opportunity for observation in the City, and gave me many stories of the Chinese’ hateful work among them. When there, and walking on the streets with Captain Maury, he called my attention to a squad of idle youths, and said the town had 90 LETTER NO. 8. hundreds of them — Hoodlums — wandering and idleing through its pastures ; no one knew how they were supported, save as the pimps and agents of vicious men — they did no work and had no visible occupations. Nor was there from time to time any diminution of their number, or of their worthless qualities — rather, on the contrary, increasing in number and rascality. My new-made Ship acquaintance threw light upon the picture, by the characters to which Captain Maury had called my attention. He said these youths were enticed by the Chinese to their Dens of Opium and Lust, and utterly destroyed. Many hosts of them are now Opium “Fiends” — the nomenclature of the Den — and before they have passed their teens are given over to a fate far worse than death. He said the Economical question is most serious — and the Political worse ; but this of which he spoke, and to which his official duties had given him admission, was worst of all — for the State in all its Departments, and the Social and Domestic spheres in all their functions were poisoned at their source, tainting the fountains from which their coming life must flow. This is an ugly picture, and full of warning to the people of the Pacific Coast. I say, and have always said, since I knew them — keep the Chinese out ! Among the numbers I have met and talked with, there are birds of every feather — some I have spoken of, some are sick in body, and not in mind, through the overwork of either, and are looking for some elixir to restore them — not in drugs, but in pure air and sky ; some are in search of pleasure, and expect to find it in pursuit — some of it, and knowledge — doubtless they will find both, for pleasure and knowledge are genial comrades and generally in company — where both are looked for; one among the latter, from New Hampshire, and fond of Natural Science, asked me how Butterflies flotirished in Hawaii? said he had a fine and varied collection from the neighbor- hood of the White Mountains. I expressed surprise, and told him I had not particularly observed on my visit there, but did not think he would find in the Islands a phenomenally brilliant collection. I will not bother you with any more of my comrades’ intentions or pursuits. I am just putting them down now, to show you the feathers of the Birds that come together and take long passages in Ships — and because I have nothing else in particular to do. The Deck does not specially invite me, and when I am writing to you all, whatever be its STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 91 purport, I am in your midst and talking, however idly it may be, and that it is ever pleasant and good for me to do. On Same Ship and Ocean, Saturday, January 18, 1890. A Red-Letter Day in our Ocean Calendar ! The first of our Voyage when the Heavens took off their veil of cloud, and the Sea responded with surface of deepest, cheeriest Blue. We could sit and walk on Deck. Mrs. Deady came out, and with the Judge we had much pleasant chat. She has been sick all the time and not able to leave her Room. She stands in abject terror of the Ocean, it has no charms for her ; she can only think of its remorseless powei’, and how it will, without pity, swallow her up like an atom. Sitting, and looking out upon its beautiful waters, heaving now gently, I told her it had nothing fierce in its expression — she could fearlessly “ lay her hand upon its mane.” But no ! she saw nothing but danger and apprehension there; and she would be happier off its bosom. On a former passage of this Ship, a gentleman was walking the Deck, with his arms folded in a shawl; a lurch of the Vessel came and threw him against the Rail ; being a tall man, he struck it about the hips and was tumbled over into the water, and though the Steamer was speedily stopped and Boats lowered, his body was never found. Mrs. Deady thinks always of old Ocean’s terrors and never of his charms. A gentleman introduced himself to me this morning as Mr. C. Malfroy, from New Zealand. He said he understood I was going there, and he tendered his services to give me any information in his power and aid me in my visit. He was the Commissioner and one of the Judges in the late Paris Exposition, and is now on his return. He has charge of the Government Property in the Celebrated Hot Lake Region of the North Island, and, of course, can render me great assistance. He gave me maps and charts, which will help me. He is a Frenchman, but has been in New Zealand nearly thirty years, and speaks English fluently. I seem to be in travel-luck again. The fine day appears to have put new life into the sick-weary passengers. They come out, and chirp, and bob around in the sun- shine, and however suicidal they felt a few hours ago, they now seem 92 LETTER NO. 8. not at all disinclined to yet live awhile. And the Judge and Mrs. Deady and I have had much old-fashioned, quiet, cheery talk, mixed with a flavor of intelligence, which Charles will remember our Vener- able and splendid Friend, General John S. Preston, used to say was no where on the earth indulged in with greater fullness and perfec- tion than among the cultured of our beloved Southland, when in her prime. Mrs. Deady is from Missouri. The Captain is no better, and the Pui’ser is down. Indeed, nearly all the Officers have the Grippe, and many of the men. Same Ship akd Ocean, Sunday, January 19, 1890. The beauties of the Sea and Sky to-day are gone. Last night, clouds came up, and the winds bestirred themselves, and I knew before I arose that a change had come, and that a bad spell for Mrs. Deady had slipped in, and many who felt with her. The whole day the Sea has been billowy, and the Sky has been cloudy, spitting rain. No preacher is aboard, and even if there was, I hardly think, on account of the weather, an audience could have been gathered. There seems to be a detachment of the Salvation Army among the Steerage. One appeared this morning, with a red band around his cap — Salvation Army emblazoned on it — and a bundle of News- papers, called the War Cry, under his arm for distribution. It was a folio of a couple of sheets, and a more perfect pack of nonsense and trash one would not wish to see. I speak knowingly, for I took one and read it. I have seen these people in England and Scotland, and spoken of them, you remember, when there. Of all the freaky phases our Christian Religion has assumed in different ages, this appears to be the silliest and most repulsive. Yet, what a host of followers they profess to have ! Same Ship and Ocean, Monday and Tuesday, January 20 and 21, 1890. Monday was no improvement on Sunday, in Sea or Sky. A Tropical downpour of short duration announced our approach to the domain of the Sun ; but did not, as usual with such phenomena, shine with any more brightness than before. The day continued, in Eng- lish phrase, “dirty” and “nasty” enough, and the Sea-sick continued STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 93 in the dumps. A few Boobies — the beautiful-winged and graceful bird, you know, of which I have often written on previous Tours — came out to see us. To-day, Tuesday, has been better. I have had many talks, but none that will specially interest you or throw any light upon my Voyage. To-morrow Morning we will come to Honolulu — twenty-one hun- dred miles from San Francisco — another link in the long chain completed. We will stop a few hours. We will lose a good many of our passengers : but will, doubtless, take on others in their stead. I am in fine health, and have been every day since we parted. I trust the same blessing has been with you every one. I will close this Letter now ; I may not have time to-morrow. I will take it to the Post Office in Honolulu, and send it to you by the speediest route. I fear it will be delayed for want of a Steamer. But let it go, quick as it can. I fear, too, that my future Letters will be a long time reaching you — the distances will be vast, and the opportunities few. Continue to write to Auckland, care of Bank of New Zealand. It will take me two weeks to get there from Hono- lulu. I hope the neighbors are all well. Kind wishes to them. How is our neighbor, Mr. Bell? Send him the same. I hope Taylor is progressing to his satisfaction with his improvements. I hope all are well in Alexandria — and don’t forget Cousin Mary. With tenderest love for all, F. [No. 9.] On Steamship Alameda, At Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, Wednesday, January 22, 1890. My Dear Mary , — Letter No. 8, to your Mother, was completed yesterday, and mailed to-day in Honolulu to your Uncle Taylor. The names of Honolulu and the Hawaiian Islands will, I am sure, recall to your mind the delightful experiences of my First Tour. The Vessel, during yesterday and last night, was slowed up, that we might arrive in Honolulu after daylight to-day, and allow the 94 LETTER NO. 9. passengers to witness the beautiful entrance to the Capital of the Summer Isles. The kind forethought was fully realized, and the weather and the water helped all they could. Looking from my State-room window, about the break of day, I sighted the Island of Molokai on the South. I was soon out and upon Deck, and in the balmy atmosphere renewed my acquaintance of eight years ago. We steamed some distance off along its Northern Shore, — it lies with its full length due East and West — and remem- bered how it is the Lepers’ Home and doom. Since I was here, good Father Danden, who went there to live in behalf of the poor creatures, has paid in death the penalty of his devotion ; and, now, Molokai, for fifteen years the scene of his life-sacrificing labors, will be forever honored as his Tomb. Before we had quite run the length of Molokai to its Westward end, Oahu appeared on our right, with its Volcanic Mountains seamed and gulched; upon the narrow Shore, a rim of Settlements and vege- tation, the Cocoanut trees especially marking its Tropic character : — then the fine, clean-cut outline of Diamond-Head projecting into the Ocean, without a sign upon its bald height and sides of any growth : — rounding which, five miles or thereabouts of lovely stretch of shore, adorned with villas peeping out of Tropic wealth, along whose front the waves rolled in, like racers, breaking their billows into white caps joyously: — ending this striking Panorama, Honolulu quietly reposes, hid away in leaves and flowers — Punch Bowl, the crater of an extinct volcano, dominating it by land with its huge proportions ; its Harbor on the front alive with the Ships of many nationalities. These things make a scene hard any where on the globe to rival, and the memories of my fonner visit came to me, when I was fresher with travel-enthu- siasm, and the Present and the Past blended into a picture filled with exceeding beauty. When we were tied up at the Landing, the dispersion of many of my new-made friends began. Thirty-two passengers left us here; some are citizens of the Islands, x’eturning home; some are voyageurs like myself, simply come to see ; some coming for health — some for rest, out of the maelstrom of our fierce Materialism. I believe by this time I knew them every one, and had had pleasant words with them on the Ship. My Friends, Judge and Mrs. Deady, and I here parted — before we did so, she sent to my Room a number of fine Los Angeles Oranges ; she said a friend gave them a box in San Fran- cisco, and she wanted me help enjoy them. HONOLULU. 95 I think I mentioned in my last, that Mr, B. F. Dillingham, of Honolulu, a passenger with us, is constructing a Railway from Hono- lulu Westward — with which he proposes to girdle the Island of Oahu — thereby developing rich Rice and Sugar Lands. Fifteen miles of this Road is now completed, and he proposed to run a special train its entire length and back, and invited some of us to enjoy it. He fixed the hour at one o’clock p. m. ; and inasmuch as the Steamer will be here all day, we determined to accept. Before that hour, having time, I determined to visit some of my old friends who. had been kind to me when here before and shown me hospitalities. I went first to call upon Mr. Bishop, who enter- tained me, you remember, several times. His wife, who was of the Royal Family, has since died. Mr. Bishop is still a Banker, and is now probably the wealthiest man on the Islands — worth, it is said, six or eight millions. His wife left her immense estates to him for life, and then for the benefit of Schools for the natives. [You will recall my deeply interesting visit to the Sandwich Islands on my First Tour, and the cordial and kind attentions and hospitalities I received from Mr. and Mrs. Bishop during my stay in Honolulu. A year or two after, I heard of the death of Mrs. Bishop, and wrote, tendering my sympathy, to which he responded, enclosing an account of the Funeral Ceremonies granted to her as one of Royal Blood. These Letters and this Account I desire to preserve as part of my recollections of the famous Islands, not only keeping alive ray experiences there, but adding to their interest by the preservation of the knowledge of some of their customs : and of the memory of one of their most graceful and attractive women, at whose hands I received many courtesies. Hon. Charles R. Bishoi^, WiNCHESTEK, VIRGINIA, U. S. A., November 18, 1884. My Dear Mr. Bishop , — I have just read in the Daily Papers the news of your great affliction, and I am impelled by . my profound sympathy to send you these lines. I know you will not regard it as 96 LETTER NO. 9. an intrusion upon your sacred sorrow, corning from one whose acquaint- ance with you both was so brief. Yet, brief as it was, few incidents in my life have made upon me so pleasing and lasting an impression. I have not forgotten and shall not forget your kind and hospitable attention during my short visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Nor shall I forget the hours at your beautiful and charming home, with all the memories of which is associated the presence of her whom you so deeply mourn. Indeed, I can hardly realize what that home must be to you without her company, for I never met with one whose gentle, lovely and refined nature impressed me more. I have been much of a traveller since I saw you, — having visited the most of Europe, and expected to have spent the present Winter and coming Spring in the Countries around the Mediterranean ; but the Cholera deterred me. You don’t know what pleasure it would give me to have you as my guest here at my home in the Valley of Virginia. I cannot show you the wonders of your marvellous Islands, but I can show you a Country, in Spring, Summer, and Autumn, surpassed by few in all that goes to make up the attraction and comfort of a home. You will, doubtless, visit this section of the United States soon — when you do, be sure to come and see me. Give my high regards and kind remembrances to the King, with my heartiest good wishes for the prosperity of himself and his King- dom. Believe me to be, Most truly yours. Eked. W. M. Holliday. To this I received the following response. Honolulu, December 12, 1884. My Dear Governor Holliday , — Your good Letter comes like a beautiful Light to one wandering in a dark wilderness, and is very welcome. Only they who have suffered can fully sympathize with those under similar aflO^iction. I am glad to have had the pleasure of making your acquaintance, and very glad that you met my Dear Wife at our Home. The fact that so many worthy and highly cultivated people, capable of appre- FUNERAL OF MBS. O. B. BISHOP. 97 dating real nobility of character and gentleness of heart and manner, knew and loved the one whom I loved so much, is a source of great satisfaction and comfort to me. As her mind and heart were large enough to take in the wise and good of all lands, so truly is she mourned by many in Foreign Countries as well as by her own People, in these Islands of her Nativity. I thank you warmly, my Dear Governor, for your delicate and kind expressions of admiration for the departed one, and of sympathy with me. I trust that your Journeyings have been fortunate and agreeable in the past, and will be in the future, and I assure you if I ever find it practicable to visit your State, I shall, if possible, have the pleasure of accepting your friendly Invitation to visit you at your Home. My hope and plans have been so sadly and suddenly changed, and I have so much less to live for, than I had a few months ago, that I am confused and unsettled, and cannot yet say what I may do. I pray, that I may be led to do what is right and best for others as well as for myself. Your polite Message to the King shall be conveyed to him. I remain very truly yours, Charles R. Bishop. To Governor Fred. W. M. Holliday, Winchester, Virginia. \_Gazette, November 6.] THE FUNERAL OF THE LATE HON. MRS. C. R. BISHOP. THE PROCESSION, INCIDENTS, &c. The Watch o’er the Death. For fifteen days and nights the black kahilis have been waved over the coffin of the late Hon. Mrs. Bishop. Most sad has the time been in the house of mourning. Parties of sombre-clad men, wdth a captain in charge, have watched in turns, two hours for each party, making in all a force of eighty-four men. Very striking has been the solemn change as the relief came in. Behind each kahili bearer would stand his relief, at a given signal, the kahili was passed from hand to hand ; the fresh bearers depressed their kahilis, for a moment, while the tired guard formed in line, and bowed in reverence to the 7 98 LETTER NO. 9. remains, and then the monotonous waving was resumed and continued without ceasing till the next relief. A moving sight to see in the dim light of the fading day, fit emblem of our own fading lives. The wail of the native mourners has sounded unceasingly, the melancholy sound rising and falling in rhythmic cadence. Friendly hands have brought their tribute of flowers, and around the coffin all the exquisite blossoms of these Tropic Isles have been lovingly laid. Magnificent large kahilis have adorned the chamber of the dead, many of them made of feathers that have been stored away for years. Most conspicuous of these were those made of the glossy black plumage of the oo bird, from under whose wing come the two yellow feathers which are used for the Royal cloak. These plumes, emblems of Hawaii’s Royalty, have added wonderfully to the solemnity of the surroundings, their very brightness coming into such strong contrast with the sombre I’oom, the })ure white flowers, and the almost shadowy figures of the black-robed mourners. And so for fifteen days the dead has been watched. The very skies have seemed to mourn the beloved chietess, and hardly a ray of sunshine has come forth. On Sunday, the day on which the last honors were to be paid to her who has gone, the brilliant Tropic Sun came forth in all its radiance, giving, as it were, a last smile upon that daughter of the laud, who, when away in foreign climes, so fondly yearned for its brilliant beams. Mourning. Sunday, November 2d, all those who loved, all those who not knowing her personally could not love, but respected Mrs. Bishop, came together to testify by their presence to the worth of a truly good woman. How heartfelt the grief was, how thoroughly the one who had passed away was appreciated by all, can only be realized by those who were present at the ceremony. It Avas spontaneous, it came from the strong man and from the Aveak woman, and it testified that not only one of the best of HaAvaiians, but one of the best of women had gone to her last rest. Assembling. Long before the appointed hour, 1.30 p. m., the many mourners had begun to assemble. The rooms were well arranged, and as the many friends came in they were conducted to their seats. On the right hand of the coffin sat the various representatives of the foreign FUNERAL OF MRS. C. R. BISHOP. 99 powers, and the Consuls, in many cases with their wives ; to the left were the members of the Privy Council and the Nobles of the King- dom ; at the foot of the coffin were ranged many personal friends and the two choirs. At the head, space was left for the chief mourners ; behind them sat the King and Queen, the Princesses Liliuokalani and Likelike, the Hons. John O. Dominis and Cleghorn. Behind these again were the Ministers, the Hon. Godfrey Ehodes, the Presi- dent of the House of Representatives, the members of the staffs of His Majesty and the Governor of Oahu, and a number of officials. The Coffin. The space left in the centre of the room was occupied by the coffin. This was an exquisite piece of workmanship, composed entirely of two native woods, the light koa and the dark kou. Not a trace of metal was to be seen on the finely polished surface, the very handles being fashioned of mournful kou. A silver plate of exquisite work- manship bore the following inscription : The Honorable Bernice Pauahi Bishop, daughter of the Chiefs A. Paki and L. Konia, and Wife of the Honorable Charles E. Bishop. Born December 19th, 1831, Died October lQ>th, 1884. The plate was ornamented with scroll work and delicate fern leaves, a beautiful design. Over the coffin was spread the Royal pall, a mass of dark velvet and white silk, embroidered with the Royal coat-of-arms, the last cloak which has enveloped the remains of all Hawaii’s noblest and best. Around were placed numerous tables, bearing floral emblems, crosses, wreaths, and tributes which had been made by those who had sincerely mourned the deceased ; rising from among these were massive silver candelabra. On either side stood four kahili bearers, not now waving the solemn black feathers, but bearing upright brilliant hued kahilis, showing the rank of the deceased. At the head of the coffin was placed the kahili of Mrs. Bishop, made of pure white feathers, surmounted by three balls of white satin. Upon the coffin were laid a mass of flowers and ferns, a crown of yellow chrysanthemums and roses, pillows and cushions of 100 LETTER NO. 9. heliotrope, white roses, plumeria and stephanotis, and several crosses feathery with the maiden hair fern. The t^erviee. Exactly at half-past one the* solemn tones of the organ broke on the ear, with a series of minor chords improvised by Mr. Wray Tay- lor. The Hon. C. R. Bishop, Queen Emma, Mrs. W. F. Allen, the chief mourners with their attendants, entered the room. The chords died away and changed to the mournful strains of a funeral chant, sung by the choir of Kawaiahao church. The words were “ Ina e make ke kanaka, e ola hou anei oiaf” (If a man die, shall he live again?) Job xiv. 14. The voices of that choir carried a thrill that no heart could withstand. These were the people who had worshipped where Mrs. Bishop had worshipped, and the peculiarly mournful cadence of the Hawaiian voice suited both the words and the music. Rev. H. PI. Parker, Pastor of Kawaiahao church, the officiating clergyman, made the prayer and delivered a short addx'ess in native. A quartette from the choir of the Fort Street church, consisting of Mrs. Hanford, Mrs. A. F. Judd, Miss Lewis, Mrs. E. Damon, and Messrs. W. W. Hall, J. Waterhouse, J. H. Paty, and Charles Cooke, accompanied on the organ by Miss Carrie Castle, sang the hymn the “Homeland.” After this, Mr. Parker delivered an impressive prayer in English, and the religious ceremonies at the house were concluded. “ The Saddest and Sacredest Moment.” The most heartrending part of all funeral ceremonies had now to be gone through, the coffin was to be removed. Reverently were the beautiful decorations laid aside, and the coffin, resting on a bier of wheels, was slowly drawn from its temporary resting place. As it began to move, the melancholy “ auwe e ” rose in the air. The coffin passed through the hall ; it began to descend to the hearse ; sixty kahilis were bent in reverence to the earthly remains of the departed chiefess ; the melancholy wail of the Hawaiian, the smothered sob of the foreigner was heard on the balmy tropic air, and the body of the last of the Kamehamehas glided from the home which, when in life, it had been her desire to beautify. Since the day that the little Prince of Hawaii, the hope of Hawaii, was taken to his rest, there never has been such genuine grief shown by the natives. It was a FUNERAL OF MRS. C. R. BISHOP. 101 national mourning. It will be long before that mournful cry, that spontaneous sob, will die out of the memory of the ears that heard it ! As the coffin touched the hearse, the sloped kahilis slowly rose, and after a short delay, the melancholy cortege passed out of the gates, which only a short while before had closed, upon the sister of the Kamehamehas, and the last of a noble race was born slowly and rever- ently to her tomb. Order of Procession. Undertaker Williams. Platoon of Police (24 men). Marshal of the Kingdom and Aides. Band of the Reformatory School. Engineers of the Honolulu Fire Department. Honolulu Engine Co. No. 1, Foreman Fassett. Mechanic Engine Co. No. 2, Foreman Hustace. Hawaii Engine Co. No. 4, Foreman Sauza. Pacific Hose Co. No. 1, Foreman Rasemann. China Engine Co. No. 5, Foreman Ahphat. Harmony Lodge, I. O. O. F. Excelsior Lodge, I. O. O. F. Polynesia Encampment, I. O. O. F. Children of Native Sunday Schools. Male Members Native Churches Female Members Native Churches. Children of Retainers. His Excellency the Governor of Oahu and Aides. The Royal Hawaiian Band. Mamalahoa Guard, Captain Frank Gerome (32 men). King’s Own, Captain S. Nowlein (32 men). Prince’s Own, Captain Kaaha (32 men). Household Troops, Major Hoapili (68 men). Servants of Deceased. Anglican Church Ministers, Revs. Wallace and Swan. Congregational Church Ministers, Revs. Damon, Forbes, and Hyde. Officiating Clergyman, Rev. H. H. Parker. Hon. John Cummins, Chief Marshal. 102 LETTER NO. 9. Carriages of Chief Mourners, Containing Her Majesty Queen Dowager Emma and Hon. C. E. Bishop. H. E. H. Princess Lilioukalani and Mrs. W. F. Allen. Carriage of His Majesty. H. E. H. Princess Likelike and Daughter. Prince A. K. Kunuiakea and Lady. The Chancellor of the Kingdom. His Majesty’s Ministers. Diplomatic and Consular Corps. Government Officers. General Public. Detachment of Cavalry. The procession, in the order above juentioned, proceeded along the route which had only a short time before been gone over by the melancholy train that had followed the remains of Princess Ruth to the grave, viz. : Emma to Beretania to Nuuanu streets, and along the avenue to the Mausoleum. No untoward incident occurred to mar the solemnity of the occasion, notwithstanding the large number of people that joined in the procession, and that lined the roads from dwelling to tomb, as spectators. Over 900 people were in line, exclusive of the school children, and 75 carriages. The procession took 23 minutes to pass a given point, and was over half a mile in length. And now the gates of the Mausoleum were reached. Slowly they opened to admit the head of the column, and its vai’ious members filed past, taking up a position around the mortuary building. Once more the wailing broke forth, redoubled in its energy, an ear-piercing, heart-breaking cry ; a last wail for her who was a real hope to Hawaiian womanhood. And thus, amid the solemn strains of the Dead March in Saul, amid the lamentations of the women, did all that was earthly of Mrs. Bishop pass into the tomb of the Kameha- mehas. Wilkin the Mausoleum. Within all was gloom, into that last home of Hawaii’s illustrious dead the light but filters through the colored glass, casting weird shadows on the pavement, and on the black palled coffins of so many chiefs and chiefesses. An organ stood in the ante-chamber, bearing a fforal cross. In the narrow space within the mausoleum, seats had been arranged for those most nearly connected with the deceased, and also for the chief government officials and foreign consuls. When FUNERAL OF MBS. C. B. BISHOP. 103 the coffin had been placed by the side of that of the Princess Ruth Keelikolani, the Rev. H, H. Parker resumed his ministrations. A hush fell upon those present, deeper than had been the silence before, as the clear ringing tones of one of Hawaii’s purest sons said the simple prayer over the body of one who had labored with him, for the amelioration of the native race, hand in hand. Then once more the Kawaiahao choir broke forth into song: “ E lesu ka mohai no’u” (Rock of Ages), was sung by breaking hearts. Those who heard those few people sing, would know that it was no lip service they were giving, that it was not in the beauty of their harmonies that they took a pride, but that it was a heart service offered to one whom they truly loved. Laid in the tomb is the best of Hawaii’s womanhood, and Hawaii may well mourn its loss, and does mourn it thoroughly. We who survive may truly say, in Wordsworth’s words: The good die FIRST. IN MEMORIAM BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP, THE LAST OF HER RACE. Tlie banners now are drooping half-mast high, The bells are swinging slow and solemnly ! Once more, alas ! along the well-known road, Move the white horses with their mournful load. While muffled drum and tall Kahilis say, A chiefess passes to her home to-day, That home, where rest in sorrowful decay, Tire chiefs who ruled Hawaii’s earlier day. The gloomy portals open once again. And through them pass the melancholy train. Who, with sad hearts and many a bitter tear. See the dead chiefess placed upon her bier. Near thee, their daughter, after life’s brief close, Konia and Paki peacefully repose 1 Yes: Death which sever’d ye, unites once more. Ye meet again upon the heavenly shore ! So the sad rite is o’er, and all is done. The portals close — we leave thee there alone. Yet not forgotten at the lonely hearth I Nor unremembered in our hours of mirth ! 104 LETTER NO. 9. E’en lands long distant from thy place of birth, Had learned to know thee and to prize thy worth, And England’s Queen a graceful welcome gave, To far Hawaii’s wanderer o’er the wave ! Long in our mem’ry will thy virtues live ! Long in our breasts the thought of thee survive ! Ill can we spare thee, none can take thy place. Thou last and noblest of a noble race ! W.] I found him at his Banking House, and received a most cordial welcome ; and we had much talk. I told him I wanted to call to see Colonel Macfarlane, and also the King, in recognition of their hospitalities and courtesies on my former visit. He said Colonel M. was the King’s Chamberlain, and would, he was sure, accompany me. Having no time to lose, I went with Mr. Bishop at once to Colonel Macfarlane’s store. He was absent ; and I told his younger Brother to let him know my wishes, and advise me upon my return from the Railway Excursion. Desiring to see Honolulu, I walked to the Station, stopping on the way to get a piece for the Silver Set. Quite a number of us convened at the Station at the appointed hour, and our little jaunt was most enjoyable. It is a narrow gauge Road and well built, with excellent cars. It runs Westward, around Pearl Harbor, and through many admirable Rice Paddies and Fish Ponds — both said to be profitable. Judge and Mrs. Deady were along, and also Mr. God- frey Brown, the late Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Hawaiian Government, of whom I have hitherto spoken, and who now gave us much information. By far the most interesting thing in connec- tion with this ride was the manner in which the water is obtained to irrigate the soil, without which it would be worthless. The Chief Engineer of the Road, Mr. Allandt, was with us, and gave us an account of its quantity and flow. It comes out of the base of the hills and mountains, often in huge volume; and at a Rice Mill, where we stopped, owned by a Chinaman, Mr. A. showed us the stream, gushing out in sufficient quantity, he said, to supply San Francisco’s fullest wants, and never failing. This is most remarkable, for the Island of Oahu is small and its mountains are not high or snow clad. Where is this immense store house of water? Volcanic countries HONOLULU— LETTER FROM MATHEW P. DEADY. 105 must have formations of which we have much to learn. The water is beautiful and pure, and if the Engineer be correct, that the supply is unfailing, and belongs to the other Islands as it does to Oahu, who can predict the outcome in wealth of this Little Kingdom by the cultivation of its soil ? On our return, I bade my Friends, Judge and Mrs. Deady, Good Bye ! they having taken quarters at the Hawaiian Hotel. I told them when I got home I would write and let them know how my time and travel tided; and they must reply and inform me, I sincerely hoped, how the Judge had found a complete restorer to his tired energies. I regret greatly to part from, and will miss them — indeed, there is no one left upon the Ship who can, with me, take their place. And, now, the whole thirty-two who constituted a part of our little household are gone — most of us never to meet again. Thus it is on Travel — to be repeated at every stage — companions made and lost. [I must here insert more about my Friend Judge Deady. The remarks and Letters will be interesting in perpetuating with you and me the memory of a most interesting man. I fulfilled my promise, and wrote to him when I arrived at Home, on the termination of the Tour a running account of my experiences after we parted, and requesting a reply, giving the story of his. I received the following answer. Portland, Oregon, September 3, 1890. My Dear Governor Holliday , — Your welcome favor of the 24th ult. came to hand to-day. I was expecting to hear from you, as I remember you expected to return Home in August. And what a journey you have made since we parted at Honolulu ! We left there early in Mai’ch, and after staying a few days in San Francisco, where I saw our Friend Judge Thornton, we got Home on the 28th of the month. I was not able to go to the Volcano. I came Home rested, but not well ; have been improving since. We had an enjoyable time. 106 LETTER EO. 9. however, in Honolulu, and were very kindly treated. The Chief Justice gave me a Dinner, just before I left. I have been pretty steadily at work since I returned, and send you with this a Copy of one of the Opinions I have written. I am going to collect Copies of some Addresses and Lectures of mine, and send you in a few days, which I hope you will find time to look over. Mrs. Deady and I go to the Seaside, twenty miles below the mouth of the Columbia, in a few days to spend our vacation. She was very glad to hear of your safe return, as was, also, myself. She still says, and I do not dissent, “That the world would be better if there were more men in it like Governor Holliday.’’ We are looking forward to going East — if Chicago can be called that — to attend the Columbian Exposition, when we may meet and visit you. The great affair ought to have been at Washington City, and not at the Pork Emporium. With kind regards and good wishes from both of us, I am very truly yours, Mathew P. Deady. Portland, Oregon, January 13, 1891. My Dear Governor , — I sent you a day or two since a short Biography of myself, taken out of a large work now being published by Mr. Bancroft, of which it is a part. I ought to have answered your welcome Letter long ago ; but I have been both sick and very busy. I am better now, but still busy. I have enjoyed the Pamphlets you sent me very much — “The Higher Education the Hope of American Republicanism,” delivered before the Alumni of the University of Virginia, and “The Address of Welcome at the Yorktown Centennial Celebration.” You ought to be in the Senate of the United States from Virginia. Mrs. Deady is quite well, and wishes to be kindly remembered to you — her ideal man. We still live in hopes of sitting by the ingle side in your Virginia Farmhouse and talking over our pleasant voyage from San Francisco to Honolulu. HONOLULU— LETTER FROM MATHEW P. DEADY. 107 Three years from the 12th of May next, I will be at liberty to retire, and I will certainly do so. The Supreme Court of the United States has got right at last over the Virginia Coupons and Taxes. Well, it was always right maybe, and it took the Lawyers some time to find the proper remedy. Sincerely yours, Mathew P. Deady. In August, 1891, I went on my Seventh Tour — visiting France, Italy, and Egypt — returning the following March, 1892. I wrote just before my departure to my Friend, and on my return, and several Letters passed between us, which have been lost or mislaid. In October, 1892, I received a Letter from Judge Deady from the St. James Hotel, Baltimore, stating that he was there attending the Episcopal General Convention as a Lay Delegate, that Mrs. Deady was with him, and that both greatly desired that I would, if possible, run down and see them. I, of course, with pleasure, complied, and spent a day and night at the same Hotel, in the enjoyment of their society. The Judge had much failed in health and strength since we parted in Honolulu. The strain of overwork which had broken his remark- ably fine constitution, had been carried so far that his evidently once vigorous native forces could not rally; and I felt quite sure that his days on earth Avere numbered. He yet could not realize that the powers which had stood him so long had failed beyond hope of recovery. We had many pleasant talks, he and Mrs. Deady and myself. Sitting together in the Parlor in the afternoon, a young gentleman approached, and inquiring our names, began a conversation Avith the Judge, Avhich I soon perceived Avas intended to be an intervieAV ; and whilst the Judge was undergoing it, I continued my conversation with Mrs. Deady. When his Honor had been sufficiently squeezed, the young gentleman turned to me. I told him, mildly, that he must excuse me: I never Avas interviewed in my life; and, Avithout mean- ing the slightest discourtesy to him, never intended to be. I did not allow it when a Public Man ; I would hardly permit it now that I had ceased to be one, and become a Private Citizen. If I had any- thing to say to the Public of sufficient import to cause me to think it of such value, that they desired to hear, I always did it with my 108 LETTER NO. 9. own voice or over my own signature. I thought the custom a bad one, and the sooner abolished, the better. All of which was spoken in the kindest and most considerate manner, which the gentlemanly interviewer seemed fully to appreciate. A few hours after, the following appeared in a Daily Paper. “ HOTEL GOSSIP. Ex-Governor Frederick W. M. Holliday, of Virginia, is stopping at the St. James Hotel. The distinguished ex-Governor came to Baltimore especially to see Judge and Mrs. Deady, of Portland, Oregon, who have been at the St. James for about ten days. Governor Holliday, on one occasion, made a voyage to the Sand- wich Islands on the same vessel with the distinguished Federal Judge and his wife, and would not miss the opportunity of seeing them again. Judge Deady is here as a lay delegate to the Episcopal Convention. Both gentlemen chatted jileasantly with a News reporter this morn- ing. “What is going on in the West?’’ asked the reporter of Judge Deady. “I do not live in the West,” replied the Judge; “the West is the Mississippi Valley and Chicago is the capital. Everything on the other side of the Rockies is the Pacific Coast, not the West.” The Judge spoke of the various booming towns of his section and discussed their relative merits, but refused to talk politics further than saying that he believed all the Pacific Coast States would be carried by the Republicans. Turning to Ex-Governor Holliday, the reporter asked : “ And how is Virginia going this year?” With real Virginia courtesy, and with entire good humor. Gov- ernor Holliday replied : “My dear sir, during the entire period of my public career, I never allowed myself to be interviewed ; and now that I have elevated myself to the position of a 2irivate citizen, I shall certainly not break my rule. “ Whenever I wished to say anything to the Public, I said it over my own signature. This business of interviewing is a comparatively new custom and one I do not like.” HONOLULU. 109 Judge Deady and Ex-Governor Holliday are both strikingly hand- some men, though of entirely different types. — Baltimore News. Many of the Papers copied the Interview, and were generally opposed to my position. Among them the Richmond Despatch had the following comment. “interviewees after an ex-governor. Ex-Governor F. W. M. Holliday recently told a Baltimore reporter that in all of his public career he had never allowed him- self to be interviewed. This fact, and the words in which the Ex-Governor stated it, were forthwith published by the reporter in the next issue of his paper, and the Ex-Governor cannot say hereafter that he has never been interviewed . When Governor Holliday was filling the gubernatorial chair of the Old Dominion, interviewing was but little in vogue here, and since that time he has been such a great traveller that the reporters never could catch up with him. He has probably travelled more in foreign lands than any Virginian now living, which is saying a good deal when we remember the achievements in this line of Dr. Hoge, T. William Pemberton, Esq., Coroner Taylor, and Willie Coulling, of this city. But if he expects to keep out of the hands of the interviewers he will have to keep going all the time, so that the reporters will never be able to overtake or waylay him, as this American device for producing interesting reading matter has been more or less adopted in the United Kingdom and on the Continent, and is even said to be somewhat in use in China. However, it is a pity that the Ex-Governor is so much disinclined to encourage the interviewers, for he is a keen observer, and a bright conversationalist, and if he would “talk for publication” could enter- tain a large circle of friends and admirers in this and other States.” I was anxious that my Friends should go to Winchester with me and pay me a visit. But they were afraid to undertake it — so far from Home and the Winter approaching. The next morning, we bade each other Farewell ! I felt, as far as the Judge was concerned, for the last time. He promised to write upon his arrival in Port- land, and tell me how he stood the long Journey. 110 LETTER NO. 9. Not hearing, in Avhat I thought a reasonable time, I wrote him, and received the following response. Portland, Oregon, December 1, 1892. My Dear Governor , — Your kind favor of the 24th ult. came to hand this morning. Not a day has passed since we reached Horae, but I have thought of you and my promise to write. But in tliese latter days I write so poorly, and the task is so irksome to me, that I put it off. I can see you, now, as you stood on the steps of the St. James and waved me Good Bye ! in your genial and whole-souled man- ner, and I said Good Bye ! to you for the last time, I fear, unless you will take Oregon in your next ramble, and spend a week or two with us. I know Mrs. Deady would delight to do you honor. By the way, she did not forget to remind me to write, as you requested her. We got to Washington in good style and put up at Wormley’s. We had a good time there; — that is, Mrs. Deady had. My want of locomotion impaired the pleasure of the trip for me. I dined out some — at Justice Field’s among other places. The Chief Justice gave an Official Dinner to the new Justice of the Supreme Court, and was kind enough to invite me to eat with the Big Wigs. We stayed in Washington eleven days. The weather was delightful and the City lovely. We came Home direct, reaching Portland on the 26th, — -just one month to-day from the time we left. I don’t think the trip made any improvement in my case. I am being treated with Electricity now. Sometimes, I fancy, that it is doing me good, and then again, not. And you think of going to Alaska. Well, it is the easiest thing to do in the world. You go b}^ Rail from here to the Sound, and thence North, and back by a comfortable Steamer. Alaska is the place to get “ far from the madding crowd ” — altogether unique. Go, by all means. But you must stop a Aveek or tAvo Avith us, going or coming. It may be necessary to engage your Berth a trip ahead. I regret \'ery much we could not, or thought Ave could not, visit you it) your Old Home. Give our thanks to your Sister for her kind invitation, in case we had gone. HONOLULU— LETTER FROM PAUL R. BEADY. Ill Yes ! the Baltimore News man did well. He profited by the Lecture you gave ; and he remembered the difference between the “West” and the “Pacific Coast.” My kind regards, in which Mrs. Deady cordially joins, I am your admirer and friend. Mathew P. Deady. To Hon. Fred. W. 31. Holliday, Winchester, Va. I wrote again March 15, 1893, requesting the Judge to send me an Alaska Excursion Steamer’s Time-Table and Prospectus. By the time my Letter reached him, I received the following Telegram : PoETLAND, Oeegon, IlarcJi 26, 1893. F?'ed. W. M. Holliday, Winchester, Va. : My Father died at 7.46 this morning, peacefully. Paul R. Deady. And a few days thereafter, the following Letter. Governor Fred. W. 3'I. Holliday, My Dear Sir , — I presume, of course, you received the Telegram announcing the Death of my Father. He was only sick about ten days. His Death was the result of his old malady — bladder trouble. The only consolation we can find in his Death, is that he was con- scious to the last moment, and passed away without any suffering. Your Letter to him was received on the day of his Death. He always enjoyed hearing from you, and often read me your Letters. My Mother wished me to write you and tell you of my Father’s Death, and convey to you her kindest remembrances. Considering her sad loss, she holds up remarkably well. My Dear Sir ; By to-day’s Mail I send yon a Pamphlet, called “ All About Alaska,” which, I think, will give you a great deal of information about that interesting Country. 112 LETTER NO. 9. ]\Iy Mother and myself will expect you in Portland, and the pleasure of seeing you on your way to Alaska. With best wishes from my Mother and myself for your good health, Believe me. Yours most Respectfully, Paul Robert Deady. Portland, Oregon, April 2, 1893. Of the many interesting and attractive persons to whom I have introduced you in my now extended Travels, no one of them all surpassed my Friend Judge Deady. After we met, we soon found our way to each other’s heart. He was very handsome, more than six feet in height, with a well-formed manly frame. His face and head were fine, ci'owned with a thick suit of auburn hair, as yet only sprinkled with the gray. Though seventy years had with him come and gone, he bore none of the infirmities of age, save in the malady with which he was afBicted. Of genial, kindly temper, his counte- nance expressed it. Whilst from the beginning, I feared he had received a fatal wound, yet, I felt, when the news came to me of his death, that in my Friend a good and able and valuable man had fallen all too soon, and I sorrowed, as if our friendship had been life- long.] I found Colonel Macfarlane at his store. He said his Brother had told him of my wishes and he had communicated with the King, who had expressed a most pleasant recollection of and desire to see me again. The Colonel asked, if I wanted a formal reception? if so, the King would receive me at the Palace. I told him, that was farthest from my desires; I wished simply to call in the most informal man- ner and pay my respects, in recognition of our pleasant acquaintance- ship and of his marked courtesy and hospitality on my former visit. He said, that being the case, the King would not go to the Palace; but would be glad to see me at one of his more unpretentious homes in the City, and he would fix the hour at half-past four o’clock in the afternoon, and call for me in a carriage, at the Steamer, and accompany me. HONOLULU. 113 I, then, returned to the Ship to await the hour. Soon after, Mr. Bishop called and said he had come to drive me to his house. I excused myself on the ground of my engagement ; but he insisted, saying, he would bring me back in time. I went with him towards his Carriage, when there came up one of those sudden, unheralded Tropic downpours of which I have often told you in my Travels, which speedily put a stop to our design. We both regretted it very much : for my hours were so few, that we had finally to part. He lold me he had moved from the lovely home where, you remember, he and Mrs. Bishop so delightfully entertained me ; but which he left for another equally desirable, after her death. At the appointed hour the Colonel came, and went with me to call upon the King. We found him awaiting us — in the quiet home of which I have spoken — a one story frame building, with verandahs, and rooms furnished handsomely, situated in the centre of a highly improved Square, and a charming home all the time, and for anybody who didn’t have a Palace. He came out to meet me with the ease and affability of which I have spoken on my former visit, and shaking hands, gave me a cordial welcome, showing in it, since our talk, that he had a perfect recollection of me and the topics of our conversation. We had an interview of half an hour or more — but not of such a character that it would interest you anyway to hear ; not like my notable one with Li Hung Chang — the individuals and conditions being totally different. It would have been very hard — I rather think impossible — for King Kalakaua to have at all appreciated the interview with the Great Chinaman, or have taken hold of the ques- tions we then discussed. Though he knows full well from their impress upon his own little Kingdom by the Sea, that there are mighty forces some way or how in this strange people, which neither his nor stronger powers by far, are able to resist. The King said he proposes next year to make the same tour of the World I am now taking. We then parted, shaking hands as pleasantly as we met, he expressing sorrow that I was leaving so soon, and urging me to stay over till the next Steamer. [You remember, shortly after. King Kalakaua came to this Country, and was taken sick in San Francisco, where he died.] The Colonel then drove me to the Palace, that I might see it — not being finished wFen I was here before. It is a handsome struc- ture, built of concrete and finished and adorned on the inside and out 114 LETTER NO. 9. quite elaborately. It has a fine Hall and a large room on either side, one the Throne and Reception Room ; the other the Dining Room. The Private Rooms are in the second story; on the Public Room walls are portraits of the Royal Family of Kamehameha. Thence we drove by the Government Buildings, and the Hawaiian Hotel — stop- ping to call upon Mr. Severance, who, when I last saw him, was in San Fi’ancisco, the Consul of the Hawaiian Government to the United States. He is now the Consul of the United States to the Hawaiian Government. You will recall, that he went to the Steamer in San Francisco and introduced me to a number of prominent men of these Islands, who were coming over at the same time, which facilitated and tended to render more pleasant and profitable my visit. I was received in the same hearty manner by Mr. Severance again, and had a little chat — sending my kind remembrances to Mr. and Mrs. Severance, iu Hilo, the High Sheriff of Hawaii, who helped me, you will recall, to see that Island most auspiciously. We then drove to the Steamer; and, on parting, I did not fail to send the same messages to Mr. and Mrs. Cornwall, Colonel Macfar- lane’s relatives in Maui, who entertained me in their beautiful home, almost under the shadow of the majestic Heleakela. These visits were very jdeasant, and the more so, because of the agreeable memo- ries I seemed to have left, — not wasted or forgotten, though eight long years have gone; and, though I would hardly know what to do with myself, if I remained, — the Islands having nothing to show me I have not seen — yet those memories and these pleasant greetings and welcomes, are strong persuasions to linger, if not to stay. In my walks and rides, I was struck with the improvements everywhere about the City. They have a Tram-Car System ; the streets are lighted with Electricity ; many new houses have gone up ; the shipping appears much more numerous, and of greater import ; and a busier look upon the Wharves and thoroughfares. But it strikes me equally, and with a streak of sadness, that the Kanaka is much rarer than then — the sceptre has departed from his Race in the beautiful Land of his Birth, and the AVhite man and the Chinese reign in his stead. The business everywhere is in the hands of these more vigorous Races ; and all that is left to the jjeople of Kameha- meha is to be gathered to their Fathers, like the Royal Family itself, of whom one single member, I hear, alone remains to fill the Throne. Thus, in the economy of God’s Providence, does the fittest survive! STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA. 115 I hope this rapid review of my day’s doings, together with its memories, will not weary yon. If the reading of their story affords you as much interest as they afforded me, my writing of it here will not have been in vain. I gave Mr. Bishop Letter No. 8 to mail, and send to the United States with his own. I Avas sorry to learn that it would not even start upon its journey for several weeks. I am now satisfied, that with regard to Letters — their starting and reception — this Avill be the most unsatisfactory of any Tour I have made. The Steamers are more rare. Yours will run long before they overtake me, also, on the Aving; mine Avill have often to wait many a day before they can even begin their long race to you. We must both understand these things, and be satisfied. On Same Steamship, Pacific Ocean, Between Haavaii and Samoan Islands, Thwsday and Friday, January 23 and 24, 1890. The Pacific has reasserted itself and for these two days has dis- played its wonted charms. You aauII have gathered from my story, that every day of (he seven from San Francisco to Honolulu Avas rough and unpleasant, and my Friends, then trying its Avaters for the first time, could form no idea of those qualities Avhich gave it its attractive name. I Avish they were with us now, and they could see how Avell the appellation is bestowed. Wednesday night, Avhen I Avent to bed in Honolulu Harbor, it Avas amid the noise of the ci'oaatI upon the Landing, coming and going, and loading and unloading the Ship ; that Avould not have disturbed my slumbers — but in a little Avhile after I laid me doAvn to sleep, the friendly Mosquitoes of the hospitable Island began their serenade, and tooted their trumpets vigorously. I had not thought of them ; but regarding the Avarniug, put a toAvel OA^er my face — thinking it enough protection, and fell asleep. About three o’clock a. m. the Steamer pulled out, and its motion, Avith the breeze through my open door and Avindow, dispersed the Avretches, but not befoi’e they had, notAA'ithstanding my precautions, left their mementoes on my face and hand. Out upon the Harbor and thence upon the Ocean seemed the same. The waves had settled into quiet, and from that hour, for forty-eight since gone, everything has been lovely. 116 LETTER NO. 9. Our prow is turned almost due South, seeking the Samoan or Navigatoi*’s Islands — the first point of stoppage — twenty one hun- dred miles. Your Map will show you, that the Hawaiian Islands are a Degree or two within the Cancer Line, My voyage to Auck- land is Southwestward across both middle Zones, Though I have told you much about the Tropics on previous Tours, doubtless, you think I am in Torrid heats and suffering. Far from it; the natural breezes and those made by the Vessel’s motion give us delightful temperatures. Having had experience, I chose in San Francisco my State-room on the Port or Windward side, and at every hour, day and night, the Trade Winds pass through it, in their blessed passage round the World, bearing beatitudes to the people of these Equatorial Regions, unspeakable. The atmosphere of my little roost is, therefore, ever brisk and pure. On Deck, I can sit and be fanned by wings gentler than the wings of Birds — on which Malaria never rests — whilst my eye takes in the Ocean, of deepest Blue, speeding in its circuits with the Winds, I miss my table friends who have gone; but others have taken their places, with me, at the Captain’s end. He is still unable to come — has had a serious spell — the Grippe grew into Pneumonia and threatened dangerously. The other cases of Grippe on board all passed off without serious consequences, Year me are Mrs, Barker and Miss Upton, from Auckland ; opposite, Mr, and Mrs, Smyth, from Melbourne, Mr, Smyth is another case of overwork, from Australia, They have been travelling in the United States for nearly twelve months; — I don’t think with entirely beneficial results for him. She is a bright, pretty, cultivated woman, born and lived all her life in Sidney, and thinks Australia God’s Chosen Land — and smart enough to tell me much about it ; and another Lady, whose name I have not heard. The Captain’s name is H, G, Morse, not Moss, as at I at first caught the sound. Professor E, M, Shelton, of Kansas, — have I mentioned him before? — called, now on his way to Queensland to take charge of the Agricultural Department of that Colony ; and I have had much pleasant talk. He and my Friend Mr, Malfroy sat on Deck last night for several hours and talked, whilst we enjoyed the Ocean, and the Sky, and its myriads of Stars, and the slender sickle of the new Moon just risen in the West, and the motion of the air, well deserving the poetic name of Zephyrs : — had we had the making of STEAMSHIP ALA3IEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 117 them, we could not have mixed their elements more perfectly. We talked of Kansas, and of New Zealand, and Virginia; and wandered thence into the yet misty regions of the New Philosophy. They had both been caught in its Octopean Arms, and whirled away into Ma- terialism. Though I have read the Books of this New School, and admire greatly the fine thoughts, and the scholarly tongue in which they are spoken, I rise from them ever with a sense of need. They take me beside green pastures and along sparkling brooks and to the tops of glorious mountains — but all is of the Earth. They shut me out from Celestial influences. That is a one-sided and ephemeral Phil- osophy, which ignores one-half and the better half of my being: — recognizing my mind and the world around me ; ignoring my Heart and the Heavens beyond. There is a Lady aboard — from Iowa, with her Sister — far gone in Consumption — looking for new lungs by crossing the Sea — a profit- less search. But she is ever hopeful, like all who are afflicted with that fatal malady. Her name is Mrs. Jilson, and I have been polite and kind to her. She sits not far from and opposite me at table, and at every meal sends me her can of Russian Tea, which is much better than that on board; and seems delighted when I take her kind present, and tell her so. I presented her the Oranges Mrs. Heady gave me ; and told her she could have .any part or all of the Bottle of Old Brandy Judge Thornton armed me with — proof against Malaria and other Tropic enemies. This she would not, by any means, she said, take, when I might in my Travels need it; but her appreciation, in her weakness, of my attention is beautiful, and when, if ever, she gets home, and abuse is heaped upou us Southern Monsters, perchance she Avill say, she met with one who was not altogether given over to the bad. We have with us two strolling Companies: — one. Circus, the other Dramatic — numbering each ten or twelve men and women. Some of them came through with us from San Francisco; others joined us in Honolulu. The Circus Company has with it nine or ten trained horses, which appear to be in good condition and stand the voyage well, though they never lie down. The Proprietor tells me he has had these on some occasions more than a month at Sea, and under the same conditions, and never saw any bad results to his animals. The Ladies say, and they ought to know, that the Circus people 118 LETTER NO. 9. sneeringly speak of “that Variety Company/’ and proudly — draw a line ! On Same Ship and Ocean, Saturday and Sunday, January 25 and 26, 1890. These two days have gone, beautifully, like the others : but of different cpialities. Saturday varied its charms with half dozen Tropic showers — throwing them, like a veil, suddenly athwart the Sea and Sky, and as suddenly snatching them away, coming each time out with brighter smiles, spanning the Heavens with a Bow. Sunday had no showers, but brought for our entertainment some Boatswain’s — Bowson — Birds, to paint their splendid grace and figure on the Air ; and flocks — more in number than I ever saw before — of hundreds of Flying Fish, to paint their grace and figure on the Sea. The Trades continued the whole day to blow, and obliterate all sense of heat ; indeed, in the Evening, after sundown, the Ladies had to wear their shawls on Deck. Think of this, almost in sight of the Line, where the Sun claims a perennial home. The Captain says, that from Honolulu, he never made a finer voyage. He and his wife for these two days have been with us at the table ; he is still much the worse for his spell, but daily growing better. We had no Service of any sort to-day. Everything was quiet, and everybody sat on Deck and seemed to enjoy the things of which I have spoken, and feel that Nature was holding in her own great Temple Services unspeakably impressive. On Same Ship and Ocean, Monday, January 27, 1890. This morning, at three o’clock, we crossed the Equatorial Line, and glided into another Hemisphere. Though the Line be purely such, it carries to the traveller and to those he leaves at home, sug- gestions worth consideration. The former is passing to the Antipodes, and is measuring greater and greater distances with every day and hour of movement. This, you will recall, is the Fifth time I have crossed the great Boundary of the Spheres — but the first in which I dare our direct Antipodes. Your Map or Globe will tell you when I get there. In the meantime, I waft you gentlest greetings, quite STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 119 sure the Royal Line will no more impede their transit to you North- ward than it did this morning my travel to the South. Another well-nigh perfect day. On Same Ship and Ocean, Tuesday, January 28, 1890. Still the good Ship steams on, under auspices most favorable. You have seen how, since we left Honolulu, the elements have united in harmonious efforts to erase the memory of their doings before we reached tliere. It would be useless to tell you of each day’s events, for in their current, they but repeated their own story. I have gone regularly to meals, where we talked about such matters as came up, pleasantly enough. I, if possible, have directed the talk in channels that would shed light upon the pathways of my Journey, and thus gather much that will help me in it. The Captain and I have had frequent conversations, out of which has come knowledge for me; and with many others likewise, of which I have not time to write, but wliich will, doubtless, find themselves on these pages, dropping from time to time, when the subjects and places meet me on the way, in the progress of my Tour. Sometimes I read — sometimes I simply sat on Deck and watched the Water and the Sky — not an object within the whole range of vision, but their own immensity. For the Birds would often dis- appear, aud the Flying Fish ; and as to Ships, not one has shown itself at Sea, of smoke or sail, since we left the Golden Gate — truly, you will say, a mighty Waste of Waters. Stranger still, looking on the Map, the Southern Ocean seems literally thronged with Islands ; yet that at which -sve will stop — Tutuila — is the only one we will sight between the Hawaiian Group and New Zealand. This morning, I had a long talk with Mr. Turner, a Law^yer from Melbourne, who told me about their mode of Practice ; for which, in return, I gave him information with regard to ours. They have in Victoria, of which Melbourne is the Capital, preserved the English modes and ranks in the Profession ; in other Colonies, they have adopted our American practice. Much to my delight, the Purser tells me I will have an oppor- tunity of sending back a Letter from Tutuila, Samoan Islands. This will enable you to receive this some weeks sooner, than were I to 120 LETTER NO. 10. mail it in Auckland: it catching the Steamer just out from that City^, bound homeward. This is an unexpected pleasure to me : I am sure it will be equally so to you. I, therefore, close this now, that I may deliver it to the Purser to be mailed. To-morrow, we reach Tutuila — twenty-one hundred miles from Honolulu. With tenderest love for all, F. I don’t think I have told you, my health continues j)erfect. How could it be otherwise, with the delicious breezes amidst which I am tiding? Whilst I write in the Saloon, through the open window, the Trades come sporting : were I a Poet, I would say, in balmy touch, they could not be surj)assed by those from Araby the Blest. You all are, doubtless, in the midst of Snow and Ice. How are our neighbors ? How are things going with your im- provements on the Corner? How on the Farm? How with Carter and Briggs? [No. 10.] My Dear Taylor, Ojst Steamship Alameda, Between Honolulu and Auckland, Wednesday, January 29, 1890. Yesterday, I finished No. 9 to Mary, and gave it to the Purser to mail. I rather expect it will fall in with No. 8 at Honolulu, and they will travel together thence to San Francisco. That is better, than that No. 9 should be mailed on my arrival in Auckland and wait for the Steamer a mouth hence — by which this. No. 10, will go. I have been more fortunate in sending Letters to you than I antici- pated ; but you must not hence allow yourselves to be beguiled into a hopefulness that will meet with disappointment; there is only one Steamer a month from Australia Westward to the United States, which you must count between the Letters. I am less favored now than you. Unless this Vessel carries Letters for me, it will be a STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 121 month after my arrival in Auckland before any will come. I trust some reached San Francisco in the mail for which we waited there three or four days so patiently. It has been a little warmer, but, by no means, oppi’essive ; and the weather has amused itself with alternate Sunshine and Tropic showers. I have had much talk with my new Friend Mr. Turner, and have gathered knowledge of his Country. He is the Mayor of his City, and, also, a Member of Parliament for the Colony of Victoria. He is one of those who believes in England, and has no desire to sever the Colonial Bond. He wishes simply to live on ties whieh now unite them to the Mother Country — feeling no incubus of a Foreign Government, but having ever its powerful shield between them and danger. He thinks this is the Aveight and majority of opinion in Victoria; and thus have the most of the Australians talked on board. On the contrary, I have conversed with one — and a sensible, respectable fellow — who expresses views just the reverse. He thinks the time has come, Avheu the people of a great Country like Australia, ought to stand on their own feet and speak for themselves. Their Governor should be their servant and mouth- piece, and not those of a distant, and to all intents and purposes. Foreign Power. England sends over to them a stranger to their sympathies and needs — often an ignorant or broken down individual, who hopes to restore his decayed fortune from the large salary — frequently equal to that of the President of the United States — and for services of no value. It is high time to stop it, and set up for themselves. Thus is the issue joined ; of vital import both to Great Britain and her Colonies. Probably we can form an opinion of the relative strength of these views whilst we travel. More talk I had, too, with my Friends Mr. Malfroy, Mr. Turner, Mr. Smyth, Mr. EoAvley, a new one, Mr. Marx and others, about my New Zealand Journey. They give me all the suggestions in their power, and help me to the extent of their ability. Assistance and kindness glide out on me everywhere, and it matters not in what Lands or on what Seas I wander, they come and give me welcome. Early this morning, probably three or four o’clock, I saw through the window of my State-room that the Stars were shining brightly, and I got up, hoping to see the Southern Cross. Sure enough, clouds in the main covered the Sky, but there was an area free from the slightest mist, where the Stars shone splendidly — the Cross the Cen- 122 LETTER NO. 10. tral Constellation. I have not seen it under such happy auspices since ray first introduction to it near Orizaba. It stood almost erect, and every Star ablaze, so pure and brilliant was the air — the pointers brilliant as the Cross. We had hoped to come to Tutuila before the Sun went down, that we might see the Natives, who, we were told, come out to meet the Ship to sell their Curios, and dive for money thrown them. We sighted the Island rising from the Sea — a portion of it with con- siderable elevations — some hours before we reached it ; but by the time we did so, the Sun had gone, and a shower coming up, still further obscured the view. We anchored some distance off, and could only see the outlines of the Island, and a few lights scattered along the shore. We burned a signal from the Bridge, Avhich was speedily responded to, and a Boat sent out to meet ns. When it touched our side, a man left it and ran nimbly up the rope. When he reached the Deck, though dressed lightly in our clothing, we observed he was a native — a fine looking fellow, of coj^per color, six feet or more. He did not delay long. He was tlie Mail cari’ier of the Islands, and having delivered and received the Bags, with polite salutations in broken English, again descended to his Boat and was soon lost in the darkness. This is all we saw of Tutuila. I regret our observations could not have been more, and under happier auspices. Tutuila is one of the Samoan or Navigator’s Islands : — of late grown into a famous and important site, by reason of the frightful Cyclone which wrecked many ships of war of several nationalities, and by the struggle of those same nationalities for the control of their resources, near producing a storm of more serious import than the Cyclone. They tell us there are twelve or thirteen of these Islands, but only three of them worthy of consideration, the rest being barren rock or too small for settlement, like many hundreds of the Islands which stud this Ocean. Those three are Sawaii, Upolu, and Tutuila. They lie upon the Sea in the order named, from Northwest to Southeast. On Upolu is Ai)ia, the Capital of the Group, where the Cyclone played its pranks. Tutuila has a Harbor — Pango-Pango — which is said to be one of the finest in the South Pacific ; and these Ports have become, under the stimulus of the Germans, English and Americans especially, grown into Commercial centres, controlling the trade and STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 123 the distributing point of the products of many of the Polynesian Groups. The People are regarded as of the Mahori — pronounced Mowry — Pace, and are esteemed among the finest of savage Peoples. From them as a centre, the Polynesian tradition gathers their various stocks, like Great Britain and much of Europe from the Scandinavian Hive. However this may be, the Mahori Race have won from Ethnologists the palm of superiority of all the undeveloped peoples across whom our fierce Civilization has come in its ruthless march. We will meet with them again in New Zealand. The name Mahori signifies in their own tongue Native of the Soil, as if Mother Earth, in their estimate, when she gave them birth, had infused into them a portion of her own vigor. Many of them have professed Christianity, and are putting on the armor of our Civilization. Can they bear it? Some say, yes ! Some, no ! Time alone can tell. The Steamer at Tutuila never makes the Harbor of Pango-Pango; it simply stops outside, to shift mails. It passes between Tutuila and Upolu, the latter fifty or sixty miles to the Northwest; beyond it, again, the Island of Sawaii. It was a disappointment to me that we should have reached there after dark ; in the short stay, I could not have probably have gone ashore, but we were near enough to have seen the outline of the Island more distinctly and its growths, and, what I still more desired, its native inhabitants, who, wherever I travel, above all things else, profoundly interest me. But this could not be. Soon the Steamer was off ; the Samoan Island disappeared in the darkness, and quickly thereafter, I was travelling in the Land of Nod. I will wait to see the Mahoris in New Zealand, where especially they have made the name honorable with their fine looks and manly ways. [You will recall, that Captain Farquhar, of whom I had so much to write on my visit to Peru in my Fifth Tour, here lost his good Ship Trenton, on which he entertained me in the Harbor of Callao. Ordered thence here, the terrible Cyclone struck him, and destroyed the Trenton and many other Ships of War of our own Country and other nationalities in the Harbor of Apia. I will add nothing to the Letters of Captain Farquhar and what I have written in the story of that Tour.] 124 LETTER NO. 10. On Same Steamship and Ocean, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, January 30, 31, February 1, 2, 1890. Tliursday was a well-nigli perfect day. Friday put a new face on things and spent its hours in throwing Tropic showers in our face. Saturday, the clouds fled, but the Sea rose in huge billows and tossed our bark promiscuously, again emptying the tables of guests and putting them in cots. I could not write at all. To-day — Sunday — I am trying wdth my pen to talk to you again ; but you perceive with unsteady gait; for the Vessel is still bouncing in obedience to the motion of the waves, and my hand staggci’s with it. But could it move with its usual easy and raj)id step, I don’t know anything it has to say. The days come and go, and have no land- marks — any more than the Vessel’s keel makes tracks upon the waters. Around us everywhere has been merely the Ocean and the Sky, — and the only news I have to tell is what occurs on our little floating world, and that has a sameness and a tameness that would weary you clean out, were I to attempt to put here its hum-drum story. I take my three meals with the punctuality of an old Tar. I talk with the jiasseugers, directing the conversation to the Colonies, where they nearly every one reside, not only because people like to talk about those things of which they know something, but because on Travel, I love to learn. I read, too, books relating to the lands to which I am going ; and now and then, for relief, run through a book written to wliile the hours : one day, I read two novelettes by* William Black — The Penance of John Logan — and the Snow Idyl. The former well done, containing some fine descriptive writing put in pungent English ; the latter very light and yellow-backish — the one, perchance, written for fame, the other for something more material. Anyway, the time glides swiftly with me, — especially when I am on these pages and in your midst thereby, or when in quiet mood I put myself upon the wing and wipe out the space that intervenes between us. On Thursday, at midnight, the Zelandia, another Steamship of this Line, met and passed us on her way from Sydney to San Francisco.. It will pick up the Letters I dropped at Tutuila and Honolulu. May happiest auspices attend her on the Journey ! This is the same Ship STEAMSHIP ALAMEDA— PACIFIC OCEAN. 125 as that in which I travelled from Honolulu on my First Tour, I think. Just here the Vessel gave a lurch, and tossed things helter-skelter across the Saloon, where I am writing, and rattled furiously the plate and crockery ware. I held to the ink and paper till it was done. We have had no Birds with us to beguile the vacancy of the time and air. But on Friday Evening, about Sunset, a single splendid specimen came and hovered about the Ship. He seemed to be weary, and after a while, with much fluttering ado, settled on the Prow. One of the passengers crept on and caught him by the legs. He turned fiercely, pecked and bit his captor w-ith his long, sharp beak, and speedily released himself and flew away. I did not recognize the Bird, from any I had ever seen. The Captain said it was a Booby; but I think he was mistaken. Whilst as large, or larger probably, it has a longer, sharper, stronger beak, and was much fiercer and more aggressive. At half-past three o’clock p. m. on Friday, we crossed the South Tropic Line; thus, since we left San Francisco, have w'e traversed the Earth’s thermal Belt, and are again in temperate spheres — antipodal to our owm. With what ease do we now, under the force of Steam, despise the World’s great lines, and glide along or across them defiantly ! The Sailor’s dreads and superstitions have passed into the Limbo that Science has constructed for their burial. Mr. Sturrock, a typical Scotchman of the broadest brogue, wFo has been living in Melbourne for many years, and evidently a sturdy son of the Barley Cakes, introduced himself to me, and we had much talk about the Colonies ; he gave me his card and address, and tendered help and information in any way in his power during my stay. Mr. Smyth gave me a Letter to Samuel Cook, one of the Editors of the Sydney Morning Herald; and others gave me tenders of civility too numerous to mention on this rolling Sea. I wonder I have been able to scribble this much. I will make bold to scribble a little further, and tell you, just as if it was worth the telling, how, last night, the Circus-man lost one of his horses. He informed me of it this morning, with much sorrow. The poor creatures have been standing ever since we left San Fran- cisco ; one of them fell and never rose again. With all their force and ingenuity they could not get him up alive. The Circus-man said he was his best-trained animal, and a great loss — one not to be replaced. He said to train him cost the labor of several years, and 126 LETTER NO. 10. gave me much information with regard to the process, — altogether one of kindness, never using the wliip, save to teach him his master- ship. I think he has badly provided for the animals, standing them on the naked boards, without straw or matting, and not having belly- belts to support them in case of rough weather or of their limbs giving way. I fear he will lose more of them, before he gets to his destination : which before his loss, was Sydney — now Adelaide. On Same Ship and Sea, Tuesday, February 4, 1890. You observe, the last day was Sunday — and this I write Tuesday, though no day has intervened. Monday it is with you ; with us, having crossed the 180° Parallel, going Westward, — which we did yesterday Evening — we simply drop it out. When we get to Auck- land we will find we have not been amiss in doing so; and when we steam in to-morrow, we will observe that it is Wednesday on the New Zealand Calendar. When travelling from Yokohama to San Francisco, at the same parallel, going Eastward, I won a day, and have owed it ever since ; I now honestly return it, and Time and I are once more even. To-day continues rough, and the passengers are longing for the Land. I am not ruffled, and bear it meekly; though when the Captain tells me, that to-morrow before mid-day he hopes to enter Auckland Harbor, I am not sorry. Auckland, New Zealand, Star Hotel, Wednesday, February 5, 1890. Safe in Auckland — the end for awhile of my broad Ocean travel — distant from San Francisco six thousand and fifty miles. It must have been in the small hours this morning, that, awaking, I found myself tossed in my cot by the still rolling waves ; all at once, in a moment as it were, the Vessel seemed to glide into quiet waters, and steamed without a tremor. I felt quite sure we were on the lee of Land and that New Zealand bad been reached. I got up after awhile and dressed, and going upon Heck, found the long Coast of the Northern Island bounding our West. Entering the broad A UCKLAND. 127 Hauraki Gulf, we passed Kawau, the little Island which Sir George Gray owned and adorned, and where he lately lived ; he recently sold it, and now resides in Auckland, where I hope to meet him. It was too far off in the early light to see. Soon, the Sun gaining power, opened a lovely day, and the approach to Auckland showed its best. In the distance, on the right. North Head, a bulky elevation, extended into the Gulf; on its West, rose Mount Victoria — both extinct Volcanoes — the former now heavily fortified around and to us coming in. Behind these lay the Harbor. Passing between them and Rangitoto — bloody sky — and other smaller Islands, the City and its suburbs coming more and more in view as we advance. Mount Eden looming up behind, another quiet crater, dominating the City, not unlike the Punch Bowl does Honolulu. Auckland and its outlying Villages and Villas were around us — a beautiful and welcome scene. The New Zealanders boast of Auck- land’s Harbor, and well they may. We landed at the Wharf. Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy and I determined to keep together. He being well acquainted with the City, brought me to this Hotel. Mr. Rowley, having lived here a few years ago, knew the Custom’s Officer, and introduced me ; and my Trunk was passed without examination. I bade the Captain and his wife and my numerous new-made Friends Good Bye ! with many kind wishes and invitations, and sending our baggage by the local Express, we wMked, a short distance, to this Hotel, and were soon assigned to our Rooms, and by eight o’clock were comfortably quartered. After Breakfast, Mr. Malfroy walked out with me; we went to the Bank of New Zealand first, where I drew some English money, and where I happily found two Letters awaiting me — fi'om Charles and Charley — the former of January 4th, the latter, January 1st. I was truly glad to get them. Yours ended in San Francisco; these came on the same Steamer with me. We then strolled about and visited the Chamber of Commerce, and were shown some fine specimens of Gold Ore, and where Mr. Malfroy met many acquaintances, to whom he introduced me, but whose names even I do not remember, though they received me cordially, and tendered me many civilities. He took me to an Establishment where the Kauri — pronounced Kowry — Gum is col- lected for Commerce ; much of it is transported to Europe and America, and used for the manufacture of Varnish. It is the exhu- 128 LETTER NO. 10. elation of the Kauri Tree, one of the finest growths in the World, peculiar to New Zealand, and confined in its habitat to portions only of the North Island. The Gum forms at the roots, and at the junctures of the branches and trunk. The tree itself is of very valuable timber, and, consequently, like our own forests, has been ruthlessly swept away by the woodman, and will soon be clean gone. The Gum, however, is now found sometimes in large deposits, the forests, even to the stumps, having long since gone — the Gum itself, like a fossil, remaining unaffected by the elements or time. The Manager told me that it is a valuable commodity, and finds a ready sale at home and abroad, and, strange to say, though by the increas- ing scarcity of the trees not a great deal is now produced, yet large quantities are brought in by the Natives from the ancient deposits, of which I have spoken. He kindly gave me some specimens of the polished wood, showing the grain of the Kauri and the gloss of the varnish. I shall take them Home. I bought an India Rubber Coat for inland travel, and a Salt Spoon for your Set. When we returned to the Hotel, I found Mrs. and Miss Jilson had left the Steamer, determining to stop here instead of going on to Sydney as they first proposed ; the former was wearied and worn by the rough weather, and having five days further travel to Sydney, resolved to stop. Her travel in search of health will, I fear, be in vain. After Dinner, we — Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy and hliss Jilson and myself — visited the Museum, where we found many things of interest relating to the history and customs of the Mahoris — as I have already said, pronounced Mowrys, meaning natives of the soil — the autochthones of these Islands — and preserved specimens of their Animal Life, and plaster-casts of Ancient Statuary, like those in the Corcoran Gallery, fairly well done ; altogether, a creditable collection for a young City. We went thence to the Government Grounds and Park — the latter not much to speak of — only recently laid out; from its heights a good view of the town is afforded, lying thickly around the Government House Grounds, older and more imposing. Here we met with our broad Scotch Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock, who had, also, left the Steamer, to see something of New Zealand before returning to Melbourne, where they reside. We went together to visit the Library and Art Gallery near by — more creditable even than the Museum ; 'Chiefly interesfiug from the Collection of Books and Curios presented AUCKLAND. 129 by Sir George Gray. Mr. Malfroy introduced me to the Librarian, who, at once, joined us, and accompanying, showed us many curious old Books, Manuscripts, and private Letters, which Sir George had collected in his long and active Life. He is now eighty years of age, or more, and by the admiration in which he is held both by the white and Mahori population, may be regarded as one of the Institutions of New Zealand. I was very anxious to see and converse with him ; but, unhappily, he is out of town, at Waiwera, a sea-side resort about twenty miles north of the City. The Librarian expressed his great regret at his absence, being satisfied, he said, how much mutual pleasure we could derive from the meeting, in talking of America and the Australian Colonies. Though advanced in years, he enjoys a vigorous old age, and is full of genial feeling and talk. He is one of the few men in these Regions I care to see. We spent an hour or two in wandering through the Art Gallery and Library, our kind Conductor being a man of intelligence and culture, and manifestly interested in showing us this attention and courtesy. The rest of the afternoon, I wandered alone about Auckland. The City, with its suburbs, it is claimed, has sixty thousand people. About it, I saw few evidences of wealth, and whilst it is well graded, its streets mainly macadamized and its sidewalks asphalt, there are few fine buildings, and the place presents a by no means busy look. It is warm in the Sun, and my umbrella is both comfortable and safe. In the shade there is no oppressiveness of heat. Auckland, New Zealand, Same Hotel, Thm'sday, February 6, 1890. I went this morning to the Bank and gave orders for my Letters and Papers, when they came, to be forwarded to Melbourne. For the first time, I heard that these Australian Colonies are not in the Postal Union. They, bumpy-headed, I am told, were not willing to be quiet under the wing of the Parent Country, but wanted to speak in the Union for themselves, and were not satisfied unless heard as a distinct nationality with the other independent States, and, con- sequently, I was informed by the Manager of the Bank, had been left out in the cold. The result of this bumptuousness is not only bad for them, but very inconvenient for the traveller. Under the 9 130 LETTER NO. 10. Union, you know, the single Postage put on at the starting of the Letter will carry it around the World, simply needing re-direction from point to point ; not so, now and here : the Postage of Letters forwarded must be again prepaid. I had to make arrangements with my Banker, to forward and collect through my Banker in Melbourne any postage he might pay for me; which I will discharge on my arrival there. I hope this will succeed, and the same good fortune attend these Letters, that has accompanied those of my former Tours, of which, you remember, not a single one was lost in their running to or fro. Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock and I agreed to get a carriage and ride to Mount Eden. I invited Miss Jilson to join us. Whilst on the street I took a conveyance, and came to the Hotel at the appointed hour. The wild Scotchman was not there ; the Ladies were ready. We waited some time, and he not coming, we went without him. The ride to the top of the Mountain is two or three miles, through the City and by a spiral well-graded road to the summit. During it, we saw much of the resident portion of Auckland, — making the impression upon me, already expressed, of not much accumulated wealth. The houses are weather-boarded — mainly one story with verandahs and small yards, nicely improved — only a few handsome ones. Ascending the spiral, the City with its extended suburbs and the surrounding Country opened finely, and the Main and Islands and blended Sea and Land presented a splendid Panorama — the Mountain standing loftily in the midst. It could be seen how Auck- land has earned the name of the Corinth of the Pacific — the narrow neck of Land on which it is located dividing the Sea — “ The landmark to the double tide That purpling rolls on either side.” Should Auckland grow into large proportions, it will cover this neck of Land, and a Canal will unite the Eastern and Western waters — Hauraki and Manukou, pronounced Manukow — on both of which it will have admirable Harbors. It can well be seen how Mount Eden is an extinct V olcano, for there upon its top is the deep funnel- shaped Crater, now silent and dry, only showing in it, and the structure of the Mountain itself, how fiercely its fires once burned. From it, too, numerous other extinct Volcanic Mountains are visible; indeed, it is said, that within a radius of ten miles, sixty-three points AUCKLAND. 131 of eruption can be counted, evidencing how once upon a time this region was the scene of elemental conflicts, of late transferred further South — to places now famous for their destructive agencies, which I propose to visit. On our return, our Scotch Friend apologized for his failure to meet his engagement, by saying he had fallen in with some of his Countrymen — as wild and oblivious as himself. In the afternoon, we crossed to North Side in a Ferry Boat and visited Calliope Dock, a new and fine affair. The Orlando — Flag- ship of the Admiral — a large and elaborately finished and furnished English man-of-war — is now in the dry, undergoing repair. We went aboard and were received by the Officer on duty with great politeness ; showed the mode in which Albion proposes to protect her preserves, or punish insults, with what she now calls her “ Bulwarks on the Deep.’’ But I have not time to tell you of the massive and elaborate affair. When we returned, Dinner was ready — which ended the day’s doings and Auckland. To-morrow, I start with Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy for a survey of the Interior. During the day, I procured tickets, which have just been brought me. I will close this, that I may mail it here before I start. It will not go for some days, but will be ready when the Steamer comes from Australia on its way to the United States. To Charles: I was delighted to get your and Charley’s Letters. All I can do now is to express my gratification. I have hardly time to do that much, in the hurry of getting ready to move on. Com- ment must be left for future Letters. You say Mary will soon be with you. Maybe she will be in Alexandria when this arrives. If so, tell her to be a good girl, and not allow the excitement of City life to intoxicate her. Love to big and little of both Households. In great haste. With tenderest love for all. F. I send to you and Charles, by this mail, also, maps of New Zea- land, that you may follow me readily. 132 LETTER NO. 11. [No. 11.] My Dear Margaret , — Oxford, New Zealand, Royal Hotel, Friday, February 7, 1890. Yesterday, I closed No. 10, to Taylor, and this morning mailed it with the Clerk of the Star Hotel in Auckland. I, also, sent at same time. Maps of New Zealand to Charles and you and Taylor, that you may the better follow me on my travels from day to day. They are admirably executed, with the Rail and Coach Lines distinctly marked. I closed the Letter because I wanted it to reach you by the next Steamer : — going into the Interior, it might be delayed. I intended to have told you all, in Letter No. 10, to write on and after its receipt to Melbourne, Australia, care of Union Bank of Australia ; but I forgot it, and, therefore, on my arrival here wrote you a note to that effect, which I hope may reach you by the same mail as No. 10. I failed to tell you one of the incidents of yesterday. I called to see Mr. John Darcy Connolly, our Consul at Auckland. I found him an affable, pleasant fellow, and we talked a good deal about these Colonies. Whilst thus engaged, my Friends, Miss Jilson and Mr. Malfroy, came in to make inquiry about two drafts, which the Bank of New Zealand declined to honor. They were drawn by a Topeka, Kansas, Bank on one in London, and the New Zealand Banker declined to cash it on the ground that he knew none of the parties. The Consul did not know what to do, but agreed to go to the Bank and see what assistance he could render. I went with them and heard the Banker’s objections, which were certainly well-founded, and appreciating the great trouble to which they were put, told the Manager I would endorse the Draft, and Mr. Malfroy agreed, also, to endorse under me, and the Manager let her have the money. This was a great relief to the Ladies, especially Mrs. Jilson, whose feeble condition could not have stood the shock of being left without money in this far-off Country. AUCKLAND— LETTER FROM C. F. JILSON. 133 [When we parted, Mrs. Jilson insisted I should write to her at Topeka, Kansas, where she resides, on my return Home, at the end of my Tour, and give her a brief account of my experiences. I promised her that I would, though I had little hope that she would get back, and receive my Letter. Her feeble couditjon seemed to indicate the impossibility of her being able to stand the fatigues of the long journey. I fulfilled the promise, and received the following response from her husband : The Chicago, Kansas, and Nebraska Kailway Company. Office of the Secretary and Treasurer. C. F. Jilson, Secretary and Treasurer. Topeka, Kansas, September 1, 1890. Hon. Fred. W. M. Holliday, Winchester, Va. : Dear Sir , — I have before me your favor of the 24th, addressed to Mrs. Jilson, and it is my sad duty to announce to you her death, which took place here at her home on June the 6th. Papers an- nouncing the fact were sent to all her Steamer friends and acquaint- ances, but it seems the Paper addressed to you miscarried. She arrived at San Francisco on her return Voyage, March 15, sooner than I anticipated, as by not going to Australia, she failed to get my Cablegram at Sydney, and I did not know at the time of her failure, also, to stop at Honolulu over one Steamer on her return, as she originally contemplated. However, my Daughter and I went on to San Francisco, and met her there, and we returned together. I saw that she was much weaker than when she left ; but she still continued hopeful, and I trusted she would have another of her wonderful rallies, and again adorn her home with her bright and cheerful spirit. The return Voyage from New Zealand was very hard on her ; one day, not feeling so well as she thought she might, she called the Ship Doctor to prescribe for her ; but the medicine he gave did not agree with her, and she was taken with a severe vomiting spell, which lasted all night, and very much reduced her remaining strength. And then 134 LETTER NO. 11. a severe storm arose as they were nearing Honolulu, preventing the Steamer’s entrance into the Harbor for a day. We remained in San Francisco a week, to enable her to recruit, and then started for home, Mrs. Jilson standing the journey very well. While, in San Francisco she procured the Compound Oxygen treatment, and she expected to receive much benefit from it. For a time it seemed to do her good, and she gave us all encouragement by her courage, and her constant efforts to recover her health. About the First of June there came a sudden change, and she grew percep- tibly weaker every day, and finally on the 6th of June, at one o’clock p. m., she passed away, peacefully. She never gave up, and continued her exertions for recovery to the end. The day she died, she was much better than she had been for some days, and I think her death on that day was as much a surprise to her as to us, for the last words she uttered, “ I am dying,” were said in a sudden, astonished way, as if the fact Avas but at that instant revealed to her. She gave us, on her return, many entertaining descriptions of her Travels, and the acquaintances she had made, dwelling again and again on the many kind attentions you had shown her, and how she thought they had in one of her sinking spells, saved her life, and enabled her to see again her Husband and Daughter. She was in hopes she would hear from you again, but the end came sooner than was expected. At her death, I had some intention of writing you, but thought you had not returned from your trip around the World, which fact was a few days ago confirmed to me, by seeing notice of your return in the Chicago Tribune. Her stay in New Zealand was made delightful to her by a kind Landlady and by beautiful weather, and it was, no doubt, a fortunate thing that she did not attempt to reach Australia. I feel, that I cannot sufficiently thank you for your kindness to Mrs. Jilson on her Voyage, and for the companionship and enter- tainment you gave her in her sickness. I regret, that she could not herself have had the pleasure of receiving and answering your Letter, and of wishing you many enjoyable years to come. Most truly yours, C. F. Jilson. AUCKLAND— LETTER FROM MISS JILSON. 135 I, also, received the following from Miss Jilson. St. Paul, September 30, 1890. Ex- Governor Holliday, Kind Friend , — I have thought of you so often and wondered how you enjoyed yourself after we (that is, Mrs. Jilson, my Sister-in-Law, and myself) parted at Auckland, New Zealand. I will not write you about her death, as my Brother says he answered your Letter. But I must say, your kind, encouraging words always left a lasting im- pression on her mind, and she always spoke of you as one of the most pleasant acquaintances she met on that long trip — which seems like a dream to me. It was all that we (her husband and myself) could do to keep her alive coming over the Mountains. Her strength gave out on our return trip, and on a good many days she was not able to sit up ; her cry was ever, how can I give up my Husband and little Daughter ! but then came the final struggle, and she at last went, like the going out of a candle. I will try to tell you something about our return trip to America. The Steamer Alameda came into Auckland Harbor on Sunday Even- ing at 6.30 p. m., leaving on Monday, February 24, at 2.30 p. m. It was a lovely day, and the good people came down to see us off. I shall always remember Auckland. There were no bad storms till we came near to the Sandwich Islands. Then between Tutuila and Honolulu, we saw one day two Water Spouts. Captain Morse said they were about six miles from us, but were travelling in the same direction with ourselves. They were about a mile in circumference. It was a grand sight. At Samoa, the Natives came out to meet us to the number of thirty or forty, “ to sell Curios and Fruit.” The Boat stayed some thirty minutes, and we had a good chance to see these people and hear them chatter in their language. At Honolulu, the City had been visited by big washouts, so that on our return, we could not go to see the Volcano Kilauea, on Hawaii. When our Boat started again, our number was increased to 175 passengers, and a merry crowd they were, and musical. There were Concerts and Dancing every Evening, and everybody was glad to think that in seven days we would see our own Country once more. I came home fully satisfied. Give me ever our own American soil and ways. I hope you are enjoying good health. I shall be pleased 136 LETTER NO. 11. to hear from you. With the best wishes of your friend of the Steamer Alameda, Claea Jilson.] To proceed with the story of my Tour. I left Auckland by train this morning at nine o’clock — with me Mr. and Mrs. Malfi’oy and Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock — and reached here at six this afternoon — distance one hundred and thirty-four miles. At a place called Mercer, we stopped to Lunch. This was slow travelling. But though narrow gauge, the Road was an admir- able one, the track well laid and smooth, and the car nicely finished with plush seats ; there were several cars and all were filled, showing a considerable travel. Most of them were English and Scotch, which was the case at the Hotel in Auckland during my stay there. PassiEg out of the town, I had again an opportunity of seeing the character of the houses and streets upon the suburbs, confirming my views of yesterday. Mount Eden again dominated the scene ; and advancing, other Craters of a similar character rose upon the Land- scape, and the Country itself around in its appearance indicated the reign of Volcanic forces in the ages gone. Some of the Land was cleaned up and well cultivated, though a very small part in com- parison with that which remained in its primitive state. Here and there a Whar6 or Mahori habitation, and a few of the people appeared ; — but very few — foretelling how in a little while the places which knew them once, shall know them no more forever. Soon the water appeared at no great distance on either hand, show- ing how Auckland deserves the ancient classic name of Corinth ; and then soon thereafter, we came to and ascended the Waikato, the finest River of New Zealand, whose waters in their pellucid flow would do no injustice to that of the sparkling current of our own Daughter of the Stars. The Country was in the main denuded of timber — here and there were groves — not many or large — and sometimes areas of stumps appeared, indicating how the forests have been swept away. Fires, too, had been and were numerous — blazing among the trees and sweeping over the fields — helped by the tall weeds and grass, especially the Manikou or so-called New Zealand tea-plant — some- thing resembling in the distance the Sage Bush of our Western Plains — which seems to feed the fire admirably. AUCKLAND TO OXFORD. 137 Things improved whilst we advanced, open reaches of country came, level and smooth like our Prairies, banded in the distance all around by Mountains, much of it enclosed with post and rail or wire fences, and covered often with hundreds of well-conditioned Cattle and Horses, and equally fine Sheep in thousands. One tract of a hundred thousand acres or more I was told is owned by some Englishmen, and it excites considerable indignation, that they should thus hold it and impede its ownership and cultivation by work- ingmen, and the consequent growth of the Island in population and wealth. Now and then we would pass fields dr patches of Red Clover. It grows well but it did not at first bear seed and perpetuate itself. This was an anomaly hard to account for, till the great Darwin suggested that there were no winged creatures in New Zealand to bear the Pollen from blossom to blossom, and thus fructify the growth. The common Honey Bee cannot use them, and there are no Humble Bees here — one of whose functions with us is to thus perpetuate our most beautiful and beneficent of grasses. This will be interesting to our Friend Henry Slagle to know. Thus, the Red Clover could only be perpetuated in these Islands by the importation of foreign seeds ; it from these, grows well, and flourishes. But now, the Humble Bee is doing its work, as promised by the famous Scientist. At one of the Stations, we bought boxes of excellent Strawberries, and enjoyed them greatly. From the Oxford Station we rode to this Hotel, about half a mile, in Stages. There were twelve or thirteen of us — a considerable number — mostly English and Scotch. We had a good Dinner. I wrote this much and will now go to Bed. I ought to have told you, that Mr. Mitchell, Minister of Native Affairs and Works under the Government, similar to our Secretary of the Interior, came up with several gentlemen, and invited me to join him in his special private car ; which I politely declined, not thinking it right to desert my Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy, who have been so attentive and courteous to me, aud who expressed a desire to point out the objects of interest on the way, and who faith- fully, and much to my gratification and profit, did so. 138 LETTER NO. 11. Ohinemutu, Lake House, Saturday, February 8, 1890. We left Oxford in the Coach this morning at half-past eight, and reached here not long after mid-day — distance thirty-two miles. I took my seat with the Driver, that I might avoid the dust and enjoy the outlook. A Lady occupied the third seat on the front by my side. I suggested to her to take the outside, and I taking the middle, would hold the umbrella over both — to which she I'eadily assented. She was a handsome English Lady, who had spent her life in New Zealand, and knowing the Country well, made herself both profitable and agreeable. She was well educated, and when not discussing the Country, we were talking Literature and Art. Under such auspices, neither of us wanting a tongue, time passed rapidly. From our high perch, no dust assailed us ; the umbrella kept ofiF the Sun, and the motion of the rapidly moving Coach, stirred the atmosphere into a breeze. The road lay through the Bush, so-called, — but little cleared land anywhere ; the open Country filled with noxious growths : the Tea Plant, of which I have spoken, the Scotch Thistle, the Sweet Briar — both introduced by the Foreigner and now vicious weeds — the latter called the Missionary Plant, because those worthy people, in the innocency of their hearts, thought they were bringing in a precious flower with the more precious virtues of their Faith ; and the New Zealand Fern, which is a most vigorous growth, and in many places occupied every foot of the ground for hundreds of acres. Some- times, we came to the stumps or gaunt figures of burnt forests — once evidently fine trees — and the crisp remnants of the smaller growths, of which I have spoken, or the fires still burning in both, filling the air with smoke. Fire in New Zealand, as in many of our own forest regions, has been and still is a fiend. Often, however, the sides of the Mountains were covered with luxuriant trees, interspersed with beautiful specimens of the Fern; the Papa, an interesting species of vegetation, beginning a vine, winding itself abont the tree, converting itself into a parasite, absorbing the vigor and life of its support, and having finally destroyed it, standing alone, and becoming itself a tree. Some time before reaching Ohinemutu, from the heights we saw it in the distance, and the bright waters of Lake Rotorua spread out ROTORUA. 139 in the sunlight. The town stands upon its Shore, and the back portico of this Hotel overlooks it. Driving rapidly in, we were soon comfortably quartered. The Lady who rode with me and I here parted, she going on to Whakarewarewa, where she is at present staying — two miles and a half further. She gave me her card — Mrs. Walter Shrimpton, Metapiro, Napier, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy went on to their home at Rotorua, a few hundred yards further. Rotorua is the Government Station of the District, where are the Public Buildings and Sanatarium, of which Mr. Malfroy is the officer in charge. My Scotch Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock, stopped with me. After Lunch, we took a Guide, whom our Excursion Ticket pro- vided for us, and visited the Mahori Pah or Village nearby the town. Their habitations are of the humblest character, built of wattled twigs or switches interwoven with grass, and covered with the same; some- times, the walls are more substantially built of wood, but in any aspect, they are simple huts — called in native lingo, whares. In the Village there stands a native meeting-house, now occupied by the Catholics, especially interesting for the carved wooden figures of ancient make, representing, the Guide said, the ancestry of these unfortunate people, who here in their House of Worship represent the pathetic story of their lives — unable to grasp the Faith of the Conqueror, unwilling to give up their own — between the two, simply lapsing out of existence. Behind the Altar, there is a Bust of Queen Victoria ; I thought it, at first, au Image of the Virgin. We then went to see our Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy — not far off. They live in a nice and comfortable home, and gave us a cordial greeting and walked with us into Rotorua, and showed us the Public Baths — gotten up by Mr. Malfroy, and highly creditable to the place and to his ingenuity. Just returned from the Paris Exposition, and from an extensive tour of Europe, during which he visited most of the Baths upon the Continent, he says in Mineral and thermal properties he saw none to surpass these waters in virtue or volume. We then took Coach, to go to Whakarewarewa, two miles distant, to see the Geysers. Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy kindly went as our Guide. He has taken a great interest in them, and is trying to make around one of them a Terrace, artificially aiding Nature in its formation. I again occupied the seat by the Driver. Two others — an Englishman and his Daughter — wishing also to ride there, the Driver saying the 140 LETTER NO. 11. drive was short and a good road, he would stand up and we could fill the whole seat. We had hardly started, when passing through a Gateway a puff of wind closed rapidly one of the Gates. The Coach wheel struck it, and the concussion tossed the Driver across the Dashboard ; he fell over on the horses and his feet flew up almost into my face. I caught him by the heels, and with that help, he being a strong man, soon righted himself and regained control over the alarmed horses. In the meantime, the Englishman who occupied the opposite outside seat was hurled off, and his Daughter followed him, being thrown from the high position she occupied heavily to the ground. I thought her neck was broken. But her father falling on his hands and knees in the thick dust was not hurt and soon gathered himself, and picking the young Lady up, others came to his help, and it was found that she was but very slightly injured. I, iu the meantime, with my usual good fortune, came off happily. I retained my seat ; how, I cannot tell. I suppose my one arm, involuntarily, did good staying service. On such occasions, my well- preserved nervous organization always eomes to my relief, and I am able to contain myself till the danger be overpast. We came thence safely to the Hotel at Whakarewarewa, and getting out walked to the site of the Geysers, only a few hundred yards away and in full view. They are among the Lava Rocks, like those in the Yellowstone Park. There are three more distinguished than the others ; Weikato — in the Mahori tongue, literally. Seeing Water — which performed whilst we were there — rather a Fountain than a Geyser, with a throw of fifteen to twenty feet in height ; Wairoa — Long Water — which simply roared without any eruption, but when in action, of thirty or forty feet ; and Pohatu — the name of a famous chief — the finest on the ground, and which I was anxious to see, that I might compare it with those in the Yellowstone. But whilst we waited till dark and it gave numerous signs of coming action, none came, and I was disappointed. Mr. Malfroy says it throws to the height of fifty or sixty feet. You see how insignificant iu comparison with the wonders of the Yellowstone Park, of which I told you on the Fourth Tour. He is trying to form a Terrace around the Weikato, and is succeeding admirably — much Silica having been deposited during his twelve months absence and quite a handsome affair already formed. We returned to the Hotel about seven o’clock. MOKOIA ISLAND. 141 Same Place and Hotel, Sunday, February 9, 1890. Another busy day, consumed in vistiting Tiketeri — eleven miles away. This time we crossed Lake Rotorua, taking a diminutive Steam Launch at the foot of the elevation on which the Hotel stands, and stopping a little more than half-way across at the Mokoia Island. We got out here and walked to see the curiosities : first, not far from the Shore, to see Hinemoa’s Bath — a Pool of hot water. The story goes that Hiuemoa, the beautiful Daughter of a Mahori Chief who lived upon the mainland, fell in love with Tutanekai, a young Mahori hero, who lived upon the Island. The course of her love did not run smooth, for her crabbed father, who did not admire her choice, forbade the banns. One day she swam across ; but no sooner had she landed at Tutanekai’s home, than her modest fears overcame her and she hid herself in a Pool under a shelving Rock which bounds its water — and here stand the Pool and Rock to this day in witness of the story. Tutanekai’s slave came to the Pool and saw the lovely creature thus hid away and in trepidation ran and told his master, who forthwith went down and carried her in triumph to his home and defied the irate father, with Mahori pluck and club. Another case of Hero and Leander. We then visited the Mahori Pah and Wharfs, and found them such as I have hitherto described : dirt floors, no furniture of any sort, rush beds upon the bare ground, no evidence of comfort anywhere. In one a Pig, tied by the leg to a pin in the floor, was the only evidence of occupancy ; at the end of his tether he seemed to have made his bed upon his master’s cot. This is the best the poor Mahoris can do after generations of example and instruction. They are a good looking people yet, and many of their men and women are big and strong. But their faces bear few traces of intelligence, and apathy and their fate only are written there. The fittest — who are not they — must in God’s decree survive. They are of darkish brown color — brunette — with abundant suits of straight, coal-black hair. We then went to see the rough figure of one of their Gods, brought, they claim, by their ancestors from the Fijian Islands, when they emigrated thence centuries ago. I told one of them he was mis- 142 LETTER NO. 11. taken in the spot; his ancestors were not Fijians, rather Samoans or Tongaris. That simply upset his feeble intellect ; for he had never so much as heard of those two Islands, and he looked dazed, and stood with open mouth and stupid air, having nothing more to say. The figure is evidently very ancient and of the rudest workmanship, and worn by ten thousand storms; they have it in a nicely finished structure, framed and weather-boarded and painted, in the fashion of a Tomb, and appear to guard it tenderly, notwithstanding the mission- ary and his teachings. During this steam and walk, I escorted the young Lady who fell from the Coach yesterday. She told me she was not much hurt. A good looking and cultivated English girl she is, and pleasant to wander with. She told me her name — Freeman, and her father a Civil Engineer — well-to-do, for this is her sixth extensive Tour and she evidently has appreciated them. Leaving the Island, we steamed to the farther shore, and there took Stage and drove to Tiketeri — three miles further. I took the box again and wanted the young Lady by my side, regardless of her tumble yesterday; but my broad- Scotch Friend was too smart and cut her out, taking it himself. Before reaching Tiketeri, a mile or two away, we saw its site- marked by the smoke arising from its caldrons — around and upon the summit of a cliff. When we arrived, we found the sights : pits of boiling mud — sputtering and making much ado. They were all of the same consistency, and performed much the same evolutions; the hot air below would swell them into bubbles, which would burst, and then repeat the process. One was very large and was moi’e violent and threw fountains of liquid mud high into the air. There was, also, a pool of boiling water, which in its peculiar work and violence of action, probably surpassed anything I saw in the Yellowstone. When we had seen enough, we went to a Native Whare — especially provided for travellers and was nice and clean — and there took our Lunch. After which we started on our return — the whole eleven miles by Coach. This time another English Lady who was along, asked my Scotch F riend to allow her to take his seat on the Driver’s Box. He could not refuse, and asking her permission, I kept the middle seat. We talked briskly, and I found her not pretty, but heady and cultivated. We talked much of England and America, and I told her what I thought of her Country and its People and Institutions : the eulogiums she enjoyed ; the strictures philosophi- WHAKAREWAREWA. 143 cally bore, and said if I would visit her in her English home, she would show me people who would, she was sure, much modify and mollify some of the strictures. Her husband was along ; but appeared to be a harmless man, whom she cared for. I learned it was Lady Mannering and her husband. Sir Philip. We reached the Hotel at half-past four o’clock, after a pleasant day — though dust prevailed and my umbrella alone prevented suffer- ing from the Sun. Same Place and Hotel, Monday, February 10, 1890. This morning when I got up the Sky was overcast, and betokened rain. It rained a pretty hard shower yesterday evening and settled thoroughly the dust, preparing things for a delightful experience to- day. In a little while after I was out, it began and promised more ; but travellers cannot stop for the weather, and we determined to carry out our Programme: — a visit to Waiotapu Valley — twenty miles distant. The party were Mr. Freeman and his Daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock, and myself. We went in a Stage and three horses. It began to rain afresh before we started, and continued more or less the entire journey — but never very hai’d ; the dust was settled, and the road a good one. We passed Whakarewarewa, and fortunately Pohatu, the finest Geyser, was in action, in compensation for our vain waiting the other day. It is, to one who has not seen the Yellowstone, an imposing afiPair, but is dwarfed by the memory of one who has. My Friend had never seen a Geyser, and enjoyed the phenomenon immensely. But the Geysers are not at all equal to ours. The Country through which we passed was a great waste — the hills and mountains possessed by Fern, and other small growths — not a human habitation upon the way. We came, at eighteen miles, to what our Driver called a Bungalow — two tents — one occupied by a Mr. Scott, who kept it for travellers, he himself being the Guide for Thomas Cook & Co., the famous Tourist agents. We, too, had a Guide with us, who accompanied us on horseback — Guide for Hays & Co., on whose tickets I am travelling to Napier. We did not stop, but drove on two miles further and dismounted, to visit the scenes for which we had come. 144 LETTER NO. 11. We saw them smoking along a considerable length some distance off. It was at this time raining quite hard, and it became a question with ns whether we would venture through the grass and fern, being quite well assured that it was with the certainty of getting wet. But having come thus far, we resolved, like good travellers, to keep on to the end. I had my India Rubber overcoat that I bought in Auck- land, now coming well in play, and my umbrella. It was a walk of at least five miles going and coming, and a rough one, especially for the Ladies. But they bore it bravely, and we were all compen- sated by the Pools and Springs and Fumaroles, and especially one Terrace, now forming, which they hope will rival the wonderful ones destroyed a few years ago, that robbed New Zealand of her greatest and most famous curiosity. These Pools and Fumaroles and Terraces extend a long distance, marked to us from the Coach by their steam and smoke, and seemed nearer than they were. The walk, going and coming, as I have said, was not less than five miles; and through fern and grass and scrub, or over lava and other volcanic deposits, drenched with the continuously falling rain. When we returned to the Coach, my feet were wet, but my India Rubber coat and umbrella protected my person ; the latter of which also did good service for my young English Lady Friend, whom I gallantly escorted and for which I received many thanks. Reaching the Coach on our return, we came to the Bungalow, where Mr. Scott cordially received us. The Proprietor of the Hotel had fixed us up a Lunch ; but Mr. Scott had a pot of Tea made for us, for which he refused to receive any compensation, telling me he had seen the notice of my arrival in the Auckland Papers, and was delighted to greet me in his home. Indeed, in passing, you will be amused and entertained to know, that the send-off I received from the press on my arrival not only made me out a greater and more distinguished man than I ever hoped, or expected to be, but made known that I had come, to the people of the Island, and everywhere I am recognized and welcomed. The Proprietor of the Hotel said he wished his rooms were better, that he might more appropriately enter- tain so distinguished a visitor. How can one know how important he is — thinking humbly of himself — unless others tell him? Whilst we rested in the Tent, the skies, in sympathy for us, cleared themselves of clouds, and the remnant of the day was lovely. Under such happy auspices, our host said he would go half a mile on our WAIOTAPU VALLEY. 145 way homewards, and ascend with us on foot a small mountain — called Pakehem, I think — and thence view the scene of the famous eruption of June, 1886, by which many native lives were lost and a young English Tourist, Bainbridge — over whom not far from hei’e in the Cemetery, a handsome monument has been erected. You will recall that fierce convulsion, occurring at the time of the one in Java, of which I told you on my visit there not long thereafter. Both were most destructive: — this more serious far to New Zealand than that to Java; for it utterly swept away the Vfhite and Pink Terraces, that in their kind, and exquisite beauty had no rival on the earth — of these Islands, the glory and the pride. From our high position, Mr. Scott with chart and glass pointed out the site they occupied, now a scene of desolation. A little mountain was blown away, and the spot where it stood is now a cavernous opening through which mud and scoriae and ashes were thrown, covering the Country around. The Potom- ahaua Lake, on either side of which the Terraces stood, sank into the earth, leaving only a frightful gorge ; the White Terrace was converted into a waste of mud and ashes; the Pink, now from its former site, sends up volumes of sulphurous smoke. Sodom and Gomorrah, Herculaneum and Pompeii, met no more sudden, com- plete, and fearful fate. It was very kind in Mr. Scott to show and explain to us this interesting place and story, with which his intelli- gence and observation has made him familiar. Our ride back over the dust-settled road, with the atmosphere purified by the rain, was full compensation for the inhospitable morning. There was a threatened accident, however, which would in a moment have converted our pleasure into pain. The road is a good one, but in many places rounding the hills and mountains, too narrow. Driving along, our leader, not accustomed to the place, ran too near the edge ; the earth, softened by the rain, gave way, and for a moment I thought our fate was sealed. Preserving our presence of mind, or instinctively all leaning inward, sitting next I urged the Driver to pull to the right, and by vigorous effort he drew the horses from the precipice and the Stage was righted on solid ground — a few inches further and we would have been tumbled down the Mountain a hundred feet or more. But all is well that ends well — as did our excursion to Waiotapu Valley. The Sun, in seeming congratulation, made the Sky glorious for us as we drew near home. 10 146 LETTER NO. 11. Mr. and Mrs. Malfroy called to see me in the evening, and we had much pleasant talk ; they have been very courteous and kind and I am sorry my unceasing movements have prevented my seeing more of them. He says he will send me a box of specimens. I bought to-day a fine carved Mahori War Club. It is of whale bone, and belonged to a Mahori Chief of the olden time ; there are very few of them left in the Country now : the curio-hunters have gathered them up. Wairakei, New Zealand, Mrs. Graham’s Hotel, Tuesday, February 11, 1890. To day we staged it from Ohinemutu to Wairakei — fifty-two miles. The conveyance was an open atfair, without top, with two seats, holding three each, and with three horses. My companions were Mr. Freeman and his Daughter and Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock — I occupying the front seat, with the Driver on one side and Miss Freeman on the other — with whom and myself a current of talk flowed, interesting me more than ever with her intelligence and knowledge, and helping to beguile the long ride. The Carriage was an easy one, the horses fair, the temperature delightful, though clear, with no intensity in the Sun, and the road well-graded and good, the dust settled by the recent rain — and thus starting at half-past eight this morning, we reached here at half-past five this evening, with, to me, no sense of fatigue. The Country was a great waste, covered with low ferns and tea plants and grapes, with only a few Mahori settlements the whole way, and no fenced or cultivated areas. These Mahori houses were better than those I have hitherto seen — very humble, one story affairs at best, but built of wood, framed and weather-boarded after the fashion of their conquerors. Advancing, the Landscape became, not less barren, but more picturesque; the mountains growing higher and more bulky and disposing of themselves in grander style. A little after mid-day, one, especially, of pyramidal shape rose before us, seemingly barring the way. The Waikato came in sight, with its pellucid waters, coursing rapidly, and rounding the Mountain, we crossed the Bridge which spans the River and drew up at Ateamuri — a stopping place where we lunched — thirty-two miles from Ohin- emutu. This is the finest site upon the Road. From the Hotel WAIRAKEL 147 Porch, the Pyramid bulk shows grandly, right in front, standing as it were in a rift of the broken lower Range, the River racing around it, rivalling in blue the waters of the Rhone. A ride after Lunch — in a Carriage of the same style, but lighter build, of American make, which they value greatly here for their lightness and durability and cheapness — of twenty miles brought us here. The scenery improved, but not the area of cultivation till we drove up to the spot itself — an oasis in the waste. Mrs. Graham, a handsome widow — fair, fat, and forty — met us cordially, and soon had us comfortably fixed in our quarters. One of the houses is of Mahori style of Architecture — a Room in this is mine, in which I am now writing — the walls and the ceiling, which is the roof, are of a species of reed, running upright like the pipes of an organ and stayed with twine. The house contains six or eight similar rooms, ranged around a large Dining Saloon — the whole unpainted and the roof thatched with grass, altogether a comfortable affair. In front of my window is a Garden of Flowers, and over the Mountain I see the Geysers’ smoke. My Landlady had heard of me before my arrival, and showed me the attention she appeared to think my importance deserves, though I try to travel 'inco^r. and am modest as a maid ; doubtless this brings much of the attention. We met three Mobs of Sheep — thus they call them here — of three thousand each ; and beautiful creatures they were, clean and well-to-do. They were being driven to market. The Herdsmen, aided by numerous dogs, which seemed to understand their duty and rejoice in it. There are eight or ten other guests here — Gentlemen and Ladies — all English. Indeed, I have not seen one American traveller since I landed in the Country. My Lady Mannering and her gentle Sir Philip, with one or two others, arrived at our Lunch Place, just before we left. My Lady and I had some flashy passes before we parted, in greatest good humor and pleasantry. Tausso — pronounced Towsso — Lake House, Wednesday, February 12, 1890. This morning was spent, with a guide, in viewing the wonders of Wairakei — pronounced Wairake. We walked a mile and a half, or two miles from the house. These wonders consist of Volcanic forces along the Valley of the Wairakei River, an affluent of the Waikata. 148 LETTER NO. 11. The Valley itself is one of the prettiest pieces of scenery I have seen, clad in ferns and rich foliage, and narrow, rising immediately from the stream. Along its sides are ranged these manifestations of internal fires, in the shape of hot Springs, and Fountains, and Geysers, and Caldrons, and Mud Holes — sputtering, and fuming, and throbbing, and hammering, and sjjouting, and boiling, and throwing water-jets restlessly. Each one of these has a Mahori name, in their melli- fluous tongue, indicative of its chai’acteristics, like our own Indian names, full of siguificance. But it would be folly for me to write them down — you could not pronounce, and if you could, it would be wastage to attempt to remember them. I have told you of similar exhibitions on my Tour through the Yellowstone Park. The walk was a warm one, without shade till we got to the Valley ; and then, when shielded from the Sun, we had the steam and fumes from the interior of the Earth, ascending on every hand like the smoke of furnaces without their soot. At four o’clock, in the afternoon, we came on to this place — six miles over a fine road. The scenery was altogether the best we have had — up the Valley of the River Waikato — its bright green water gleaming in snatches upon the view. We passed the Huka Falls, where the River ruslies joyfully through a Gorge it has carved for itself. I would not call them Falls, rather Rapids, the water dash- ing itself into foam for a length of three or four hundred feet from an elevation of probably thirty or forty through its channel, clean cut out of the solid Rock. We descended and viewed it along its banks and from the Bridge, with which it has been spanned, and I am quite ready to admit that it is a pretty scene, but hardly rival- ling Niagara, as some of the provincial Colonists with more enthu- siasm than truth or wisdom assert. W^e arrived here about half-past five o’clock, and were soon assigned to comfortable Rooms, together with a host of other travellers, at least twelve or fifteen, a host for so small an Inn. You ask, doubtless, how this Thermal Region compares with the Yellowstone? I do not think it the equal of that Wonder Land. The Geysers are greatly inferior; rivalling that, in the volume and action, of some its Fountains and Pools and Caldrons, it does not compare in the rich and varied coloring of their brilliant waters; the Terraces, of which it once boasted, must have been far superior to TAUSSO. 149 anything in the Yellowstone, but it has not now, nor is it forming anything to surpass or equal those of the Mammoth Hot Springs in that Park. The Huka Falls are insignificant in comparison with the Yellowstone Canon ; and no scene here approximates the view over the Yellowstone Lake and the Valley of its River, bounded afar-o£F by the magnificent Range of Mountains. The Yellowstone is, like Niagara, Continental — this is Insular. Except the Yellow- stone, I have no doubt, it has no rival on the Globe. My friends, who have never seen anything at all resembling this, go into exstacies over it : I am not thus atfected. Alas! world-wide Travel tones down enthusiasm. The only way to avoid this result, since all of our ideas are comparative, is, if possible, to see the Mar- vels in an ascending scale. Same Place and Hotel, Thursday, February 13, 1890. Here I still am, contrary to my expectations. Last night I was affected as I was in Leipsie, you remember, on my Second Tour, when a draught of wine in Aurback’s Kellar had the magic effect of righting me up. The water, probably, of this Mineral Region stirred me, and there was no wine from that famous Kellar hereabouts to be relied on to still the trouble. This morning I felt it would be inju- dicious to take a long Stage ride of fifty miles, and thinking preven- tion better than cure, I resolved to halt and allow Nature time to reassert herself. This conclusion, though wise, was not in accordance with my wishes. I wanted to go on ; and my Scotch and English friends seemed disappointed, like myself. Though thoroughly unlike, the former in their native broad-Scotch state, the latter cultivated, we all travelled on together in pleasant accoi’d. The good, solid old Scotch wife often remarked that the English girl was “a fine young Leddie,” to which I yielded ready assent. The more I saw of her, the more impressed I was with her good sense and culture. The liking seemed between us all to be mutual, and many regrets were spoken when we parted — each hoping we would meet again upon our travels. I hardly think that probable, though I should not by any means object. To-day I have simply rested. The guests of this little Inn, like a flock of Birds, this morning took their flight, and I am alone. You wonder how lonely I must feel. But you know how much of com- 150 LETTER NO. 11. pany I am unto myself ; and then I can put my thoughts upon the wing and be among you, or I can gather you all about me, as I do now. To get here, I have travelled in distance half around the world — but thoughts and atfection defy space, and clean obliterate it. I have a nice, comfortable Room, and lifting my eyes from the paper on which I write, they rest upon Lake Tausso — twenty-four miles long by fifteen wide, the largest of New Zealand’s Waters — a lovely sight, sparkling beneath the Sun. As I had to stop, it could not have been in a more desirable place. But for the hazy distance, I could Southward see across it, Tongariro, Uganruhoe and Ruapehu — striking Mountains — the second an active Volcano, with smoking chimney; the last rearing itself into the domain of perpetual snow. I hope the haze will lift and let them show themselves with the majesty it is said they can. In the Evening, when the Sun was low, I strolled to a spot, a few hundred yards off, where the Lake makes its exit Northward by the Waikato River. This River mainly helps to make the Lake, and then at its further end drains it to the Ocean on New Zealand’s Western Coast — like the Rhone when it makes and drains Geneva, but not equal to that River in the splendor and volume of its flow. This comes out quietly with little fall, scarce more than the gentle current of the Lake itself — that, careering with resistless speed, rejoicing in its might and beauty. The day has gone most pleasantly. I, quiet in my Room or loung- ing on the Portico in the front on which it opens, enjoying the out- look over Tausso’s Waters and the Mountains which environ them. The Sun is hot, but in the shade there is always freshness in the air. There are a few residences at magnificent distances around, among them a Post Office, Telegraph Station, and Government Money Order, Savings Bank and Insurance Office, all in one. The other places at which I have stopped since leaving Ohinemutu are nothing more than Public Inns and Staging Stations. Taraweea, New Zealand, Friday, February 14, 1890. I rose this morning myself again ; the day and night’s rest had brought things right ; a personal diagnosis of my case satisfied me that I did not need one of Taylor’s Bombs, that have stood me such TARAWERA. 151 good service so often in many Countries of the World. I therefore trusted to Nature’s vis medicatrix. I was ready at the appointed hour, half-past seven o’clock this morning, I was the only passenger from the Hotel at Tausso. There were three others, the Driver told me, from Joshua’s, a place of Eesort two miles away. I determined to drive over with him and see it, having nothing else to do. On my arrival there the proprietor, said to be an Israelite, a good looking, energetic fellow, came out to bid me welcome, and insisted upon my getting down and walking over his grounds, which I cheerfully agreed to do. I found his Resort consisted of Cottages scattered about a Grove, after the fashion of our Watering Places, everything comfortable and in order — alto- gether the most attractive spot of the sort I have seen in New Zealand. He is going still to expense, building a large Whare ornamented with Native Carvings, which he has from time to time obtained at great expense from the Natives, and Hot and Cold Bath Houses, all of which he showed me, and took manifest pleasure in doing it. Whilst wandering I met Sir Philip Mannering, and inquired for the Lady. He told me she had gone out riding. I told him he must give her my best wishes and say, that I was in hopes she was going on, for we had not at all finished our talk ; I had much and many things more upon which I should be glad to exchange views with her. He said he regretted greatly she was out, for he was sure she would be pleased to meet me again before she left the Island, which they were now about to do, and we parted, I leaving my salutations for her. Our three passengers were young Englishmen, who live in Christ- church, you will find on the East Coast of the Middle Island. They took the back seat, politely surrendering the front, by the Driver, to me. They turned out to be quiet, gentlemanly fellows, and made themselves agreeable the entire journey. Tell Mary, the girls would have said, they were sure enough English, and awful nice. We had to retraverse our steps to Tausso, and there I saw the Px’oprietor and his wife, who came out to give me Good-Bye ! and show me a Feather Mantle — the feathers of the Kiwi Bird — worked by the Mahoris ; not unlike in its textiu'e to those I told you of in the Sandwich Islands, though made of dark instead of golden feathers, and not equal in beauty. In parting I thanked them for their kind 152 LETTER NO. 11. attention during my enforced sojourn, and to the servant I gave what was of more substantial value than simple thanks. Our ride here was fifty miles, stopping half way to Lunch about mid-day. Before Lunch it was through the same dreary waste of Country I have hitherto described. We met a Mob of three thou- sand Sheep, attended by their keepers and dogs. The Road is uncommonly fine for driving the entire distance, but the Driver tells me desperate on the Dogs, the gravel and silex lacerating their feet unmercifully, so that frequently they cannot perform their valua- ble duties, and the Sheep stray and are lost in the Scrub and Bush, and they are compelled to halt. And here I must describe what is meant by these terms. The former designates land covered with Fern, Tea trees and coarse grasses and weeds; the latter what we would call Forest, not under- growth, which would be rather classed as scrub. We got a fair Lunch and then proceeded. Whilst here a gentle- man showed us another Mantle similar to the one I have already spoken of, save this was bordered with white feathers. He said it was worth forty pounds — two hundred dollars. The Country con- tinued much the same as that of the morning in its growths, though less extended and open, and rising into picturesque mountains. Within eight or ten miles of this place, a still greater change occurred ; getting into the Bush, the mountains thickly covered with vegetation, some large trees and the ravines heavily set in green, reminding me of our Alleghany Mountains, though the growths are of species entirely different ; clear, bright, sparkling, rapidly flowing streams flowing through, not unworthy of comparison with our own. We have passed from the Domain of living fire — though the counte- nance of the Country indicates that it once had its habitation here, too, and has left its marks, not to be mistaken. At the place where we lunched, we saw an area of a few acres enclosed and cultivated in Oats — a fine crop — showing what the land is capable of, when sub- jected to the plough. The indefatigable and rascally English Sparrow is here everywhere, having earned a name quite as objectionable as with us. This, our stopping place, came in sight a mile or two out upon our road, — seated among mountains picturesquely, with cultivated areas around and a sparkling stream flowing near by — an inviting sight at the hour of six, with the Sun low in the Sky, after a day’s long ride NAPIER. 153 It rained several showers this afternoon, settling the dust and increasing the pleasure of our drive. Soon we were in comfortable quarters for the night. Whilst I write, my young English Friends, invigorated by the ride and walks up the long hills, are singing below with the Land- lady’s Daughters. I will, therefore, now go to bed and let them lull me to sleep. Napier, New Zealand, Masonic Hotel, Saturday, February 15, 1890. This has been the finest day of all in scenic interest. We left Tarawera at eight o’clock and reached here at half-past five in the afternoon — fifty-two miles. The day and the road were both fine ; rains had occurred, which settled the dust and cleai’ed the Sky of smoke and clouds, and we rattled rapidly in our same three horse Coach, changing teams once, when we stopped for Lunch about the middle of the Journey, — a long stretch, but drivers seem to be regard- less of horse-flesh here, dashing down the mountains, like they do in California, at break-neck speed, and rounding the curves with equal disregard to the safety or the lives of those they carry. The morning was consumed in ascending and descending mountains, at one time reaching an elevation of three thousand two hundred feet, the highest on the road from Auckland to Napier — alternate Brush and Scrub. The afternoon was more varied and interesting. Not far from onr Lunch place we entered a Goi’ge, the bed of the River Esk and one of its affluents, which, in a distance of eight miles, we crossed forty-nine times ; but through shallow, sparkling water, over gi’avelly bottoms, which, with the vegetation on either hand, made it a delightful experience — sometimes, the Driver said, more dangerous than delightful ; when the waters are up, they carry the Stage and horses down promiscuously. Approaching Napier, for the first time on our long ride from Auckland, civilization shows itself abroad in the fields and cultivated areas, and for ten miles there are comfort- able, often handsome, homesteads hid in foliage and sturdy trees : — lands fenced in by wire, set in grain or grass, with Horses and Cattle and Sheep — fat, sleek, and numerous — convincing you that New Zealand can put on the airs which have earned it the soubriquet of the Great Britain of the South. 154 LETTER NO. 11. The young Englishmen gave me all the information they could. The Father of two of them, Rhodes by name, owns large tracts of thousands of acres through which we passed, enclosed by admirable post and wire fencing, as are all the lands now owned in freehold, mainly used for sheep-rauge — not cultivated, but covered principally with Fern and Manouka, and a coarse grass, all of which, when young, the sheep and stock will eat. They called my attention, too, to the Birds of the Country that appeared upon the way : the New Zealand Pigeon, a good game bird ; the Pheasant, equal to ours and theirs ; the indigenous Lark, much like the Sparrow — thinner, how- ever, and of longer tail, but with no voice like its conqueror ; the English Sparrow, the little wretch, spoke for himself in numbers and audacity ; approaching Napier, the Swan, rising from an inlet of the Sea on broad-spread wing ; and the English Lark, fluttering towards the Empyrean, leaving a track of music in the air. Fruit, too, seemed to abound, especially Peaches, not yet ripe ; and Black- berries in such enormous volume of growth as would terrify a farmer anxious about the cleanliness of his farm. Such on mine would make me quite unhappy. Na])ier came in sight several miles before we reached it — high on a projecting bluff, the buildings scattered there and in intervening recesses. At the farther end of a highly cultivated Valley the Ocean lay, quiet and calm like the Summer day this has been. The River Esk, which has helped to make our ride enjoyable, keeps with us to the City, beautifying and enriching the Country of which I have spoken, and helping to make the Estuary, where Napier finds her Harbor. Crossing a long narrow Bridge and rounding the inner point of the Peninsula, we drove rapidly through the City to this Hotel, situated in its heart. My young friends made inquiry for me, and found that I could not get on to-morrow either by Boat or Rail — none running on Sun- day. I therefore put up here in comfortable quarters. I bade my young Britishers Good Bye ! with my expressed appreciation of their attention and courtesy. One of them, Mr. Bennetts, may travel further with me. I, first thing, inquired of my proprietor when my good Ship Alameda, you now know so well, would touch at Auckland on her way from Sydney to San Francisco, and to my great satisfaction learned that I would be enabled to send this Letter and catch it NAPIER. 155 there. I will therefore forthwith bring it to an end, and give it to the proprietor to mail. This will, doubtless, reach you with the one left in Auckland, and you will have plenty of reading matter for awhile. I hope it won’t tire you out. I am longing for letters, but none can reach me till I get to Melbourne. This Tour, for Mail purposes, is, I believe, the worst I have made. But, happily, I have found opportunities to keep you, quite frequently, advised of my movements, though I can hear so rarely. Whilst I write a Band and Troupe pass, with blowing of trum- pets and singing. I inquire of the Landlady what it means, and am told it is that dreadful nuisance, the Salvation Army. They stop in front of the Hotel, and what they say and sing to the gathered crowd fully confirms the opinion of the Landlady — a wretched nuisance, if not worse. I must now shut up. With tenderest love for all, F. To Taylor : I wrote and told you to send Mail to Melbourne. The distances are so vast, and these Colonies being out of the Postal Union, I think you had better write, after the receipt of this, to Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, Africa, care of the ‘‘ Bank of Africa.” Your Letters written to Melbourne, in a short while, cannot overtake those to Cape Town ; will travel, I hope, the other way and meet me. At the same time write to the “ Bank of Africa,” Cape Town, and tell it to retain my Mail till my arrival there. Also notify Charles and Margaret. Be sure you, p>ut on the right stamps. Inquire of Gibson, the Post Master. I hope you are getting on finely with your improvements. You must keep me advised. F. 156 LETTER NO. 12. [No. 12.] Napier, New Zealand, Masonic Hotel, Sunday, February 16, 1890. My Dear Mary , — I finished No. 11 to your Mother, and before leaving in the morn- ing will hand it to the Proprietor to forward to your Uncle Taylor, that it may catch in Auckland our old friend, S. S. Alameda, home- ward bound from Sidney. Let the same blessed fortune attend it, which Horace invoked for the Ship which carried his friend, Msecenas ! I did not stir about much to-day. Napier has nothing specific to show the stranger. They claim for it a population of eight or nine thousand; but it has no city airs — the Houses, none of them are con- spicuous or fine, built mainly of wood and weatherboarded, a few of Brick or stuccoed. The streets are well graded — sidewalks, the best of them, of asphalt. It is built, wherever sites may be found, on the high Blutf, or elevations, or on the level and in the ravines between them. Those on the Bluff are very pretty, embowered in trees, but from some points seem like the homes of the Cliff Builders, inac- cessible. I thought I would go to Church to-day ; but the Sun was blazing hot, shining unveiled from the Sky, helped an hundred-fold by the reflection of the whitish sand and soil with which the streets are graded, and the equally sympathetic black asphalt of the pavements. I remained half dressed in my Room, and lounged, and napped, and finished Letter No. 11, and entertained Mr. Bennetts, one of my travel-friends of the last few days, and a gentleman of this City, whom he brought to see me. The other two English youths had gone a-boating, I met at the table to-day a Scotchman, by the name of Jardine, travelling with a Valet for his health. I had seen him several times in the country at different stopping places, but had no talk. To-day, sitting just opposite, we have had a good deal. Several of those around sat and listened to us, and now and then joined in. We principally discussed the affairs of our respective Countries. One of them afterwards, during the Evening, said he had an Uncle living in Napier, a man of culture, and in bad health, otherwise he WELLINGTON. 157 would bring him to see me, and asked me if I would not go with him to his Uncle’s house — he was sure he would be delighted to hear me talk, and he thought I would find great interest and information in him about New Zealand, where he had resided many years. I told him I was complimented, but my short stay in Napier forbade the pleasure. There is one of those Meat-Freezing Establishments here, on the suburbs, that I would have gone to see, but it is closed on Sun- day. You know the transportation of frozen meat to London is a famous business now, and their enormous Steamers — among the largest in the world — can carry each a cargo of from thirty to forty thousand frozen carcasses of Sheep — I am told. When the Sun went, as usual, it became cooler, and I walked about the Town, and strolled along the Esplanade, faced by a fine Sea-wall constructed recently. It guards the whole front of the lower City, a mile or more, I should think. Apprehension caused it to be built. Sometimes the angry Ocean would send its waves over the unguarded front and down the streets. And even now, I should think, when its pacific nature is disturbed by storms, it would hammer this wall to pieces. It was delightful to walk along the Esplanade and enjoy the breeze coming from its surface and see the waters bounded Eastward by our own shores, simply heaving gently, throbbing in deep but quiet tones their white surf along the Shore, unbrokenly. It was a time when I wanted no strangers to be with me. With the breezes and the waves were mingled memories of you all, that filled them with sweetest music, and gave me abundant company, though alone. Wellington, New Zealand, Occidental Hotel, Monday, February 17, 1890. This has been a busy day of movement by several modes : — from Napier to Woodville by Rail, ninety-six miles; from Woodville to Palmerston by Stage, seventeen miles; from Palmerston to this City by Rail, eighty-seven miles — a total of just two hundred — leaving Napier at seven o’clock in the Morning and reaching here at ten p. m. You can trace me on the Map I sent. 158 LETTER NO. 12. My young Friend Mr. Bennetts, who lives in Christchurch, Middle Island, and is now on his way home, called for me in the Omnibus, reserving a seat upon the Box, to take me to the Railroad Station. His friends remain in Napier, intending to return to their Sheep Range. Bennetts tells me they are probably the wealthiest young men in the Islands ; their Father came in the early Colonial days, and made investments which at his death had increased in value to an immense fortune. Bennetts, kind and attentive as if I were an old Friend, bought me a ticket on the Rail and secured me a good seat, and during the ride gave or gathered me abundant information. The Country is very different from that which I have described in my travels through the Hot Lake Region ; rather like that which greeted me ten miles North of Napier and accompanied me into the City — mostly once forest or bush — but marked by a ruthless destruction of timber, rivalling that of our own Northwest, of which I gave you some idea on my First Tour. Everywhere, are standing the stumps of trees cut down, the land already converted into pasture; or prostrate trees which had been set fire to and partially burned, or great areas of blackened forms, their fires gone out or still burning. Large areas, also, had been reduced to cultivation, principally in Oats, which had been well cut and admirably secured in shock and stack — or enclosed ranges or in Runs, thus called here — for thousands of fine Sheep and hundreds of Cattle and Horses. The day has been uncommonly fine after the rains, and it was a beautiful sight, the lands reaching out often into extended Plains, dotted with unpretend- ing, and small, but comfortable homes — one story, weather-boarded, and generally of the same uniform simple style of Architecture. This whole region must have been — when the white man came — almost entirely one great forest. The destruction of timber has been frightful and is still going on with axe and fire. But, yet, great areas remain, and are very interesting passing by them on Rail or Stage, their thick growth interlaced or set with parasites, and vines — the Fern tree standing out or peeping from the foliage, and adorn- ing the front with their exquisite beauty and grace. I have never seen finer, not even those that come to me in memory from the recesses of the Organ Mountains, on my little run out with Governor and Mrs. Jarvis from Rio to Nova de Fribourga. PALMERSTON. 159 We lunched at Woodville, and then took Stage for Palmerston, through the Manawatu Gorge, one of the famous routes in New Zealand. This Gorge is made by the River of the same name — a fine stream of clear water, now low — often with a swell of fifty feet, con- verted into a roaring monster. Through this, the Government is continuing its Railroad at a cost of forty thousand pounds — two hundred thousand dollars — per mile. The ride through this Gorge is a pretty scene, nothing more, to the traveller who has seen those among the Alps or in our own Country : the rest of the seventeen miles to Palmerston is through a Country not unlike that I have hitherto to-day traversed and hastily described — in the rough now, but of future productiveness and wealth. My kind and active young Friend again secured me a seat on the Box by the Driver’ — which was hard to get, the crowd being very great — into whose good Avill I engratiated myself, and gathered from him much information. In describing some of the Parasites, of which I have spoken, he called my attention to a straw hat he wore, made by the Mahoris, from one of its species — equal, it appeared to me, to the Panama or Guyaquil in toughness and durability. Palmerston is located upon a Plain. It is new, said to contain three or four thousand people : laid out with streets rivalling in width Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington in magnificent distances. The Driver said the place had thirty-six miles of streets laid out. The houses scattered hundreds of yards from each other. I don’t think I ever saw a more injudiciously laid out and built place for its present or future. When will these magnificent distances be filled, consider- ing that Washington, the Capital of a Continent, contained them for a Century? At the Station to which we drove, I saw a good many Mahoris gathered in idleness. I had seen very few along the Road. They have thronged into the Cities, like their conquerors, for comfort ; but not like them, to the more easily glide out of this mundane sphere : — may the poor creatures have a happy Hunting Ground somewhere in store ! In twenty years they have in New Zealand shrunk, I am informed, from a population of seventy-five or six thousand to forty. How much it was, when Cook came, we do not know ; but we do know, that in another half century they will have disappeared. The last of the Tasmanians, an old woman, was gathered to her Fathers a year or two ago : the last of the Mahoris will soon follow the 160 LETTER NO. IS. thousands of their savage or half-civilized brethren into the Land of Shadows, and their stronger conquerors will fill the Countiy, a little while ago their own happy home. Till dark, we passed on the Rail from Palmerston much the same character of Country; and when the night came the smoke passed into bright fires, visible on either hand among the Bush, making ready for the advent of Civilization, or already entertaining jt. We came to this Hotel. I found my Trunk and Deck Chair had arrived safely, and the Proprietor told me he was sorry he did not know the day of my coming, that he might have saved me one of his best rooms. But mine is good enough for my modest tastes. The wind was blowing a gale when we came, and after I went to bed its concussions shook the third story of the Hotel where I was lodged, betokening unfavorable weather, I feared, for the morrow, and confirming the applicability of the name this city has, of the Windy Wellington. On Steamship Wakatipo, From Wellington to Christchurch, Tuesday, February 18, 1890. The wind last night brought bad weather, in accordance with my anticipations. It was raining when I got up, continuing till mid-day. I remained in. After Lunch I took a Carriage, and Mr. Bennetts with me, we drove about the City. It is said to contain twenty- five or thirty thousand people. Much of it is evidently new — of the same material and style of Architecture as the Cities of which I have already written. Wellington is now the Capital of New Zealand. Auckland for- merly was, but the Seat of Government was removed to Wellington in 1864, being more central. Its site, for business purposes, is very confined, the level land on which it is or can be built, being a narrow strip around the head of the Harbor — the hills rising immediately from it, too steep and high for the purposes of Commerce and Trade, which must ever forbid its being an Emporium. We drove to the Governor’s Residence — a nice affair with improved grounds ; to the Houses of Parliament — a big frame building, said to be the largest wooden structure in the world ; to the suburbs to get a view of the City ; to the Botanical Gardens — grounds only tolerably and partially improved ; to the Museum — a very good collection for WELLINGTON. 161 a small and far away place like Wellington ; and through the streets of the business portion, till I may be said to have seen the Metropolis of New Zealand quite thoroughly. It does not strike me that its present is great, nor that its future promises to be exceeding much greater. My friend Bennetts insisted on doing all he could for me, and went himself and bought our tickets on the Steamer, and picked out our Berths, securing me the lower one. We sent our Baggage from the Hotel by Express, and walked down a few hundred yards. On entering the Dining Room this morning whom should I see but my broad-Scotch Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock, who both arose hastily from the table and gave me a hearty greeting, expressive of their delight of our coming together again. We all met on the Steamer in company once more. The Evening was fine, and leaving at half-past five o’clock I had a good opportunity from the Deck of the Steamer of seeing the Harbor and the lay of the City, and its commercial facilities. The Harbor is small, but a pei’fectly land-locked Basin, reached from the Sea through Channels formed by projecting Islands, absolutely hiding it away. Around this basin sti’etches the town, pretty well filling the narrow margin of level land, and creeping up the hills in the rear — the houses I have named more conspicuous and recognizable. This view of Wellington is altogether the best to be obtained. I went to bed early in my little cot. My friend Bennetts came in after a while. The Sea was somewhat unsettled, which unsettled him much more, and I insisted upon giving up my lower Berth, that he might take it and I climb into the upper. I was truly glad, that I was thus enabled to turn his kindness and courtesy into a substantial benefit to himself. The night was falling when we glided out of the Harbor and Inlets into the open Sea, bound for Christchurch — distant one hundred and seventy-five miles. Christchukch, New Zealand, Cokey’s Hotel, Wednesday, February 19, 1890. The voyage last night could not have been better. We left the winds behind in Windy Wellington, and our Steamer sped over the waters without roll or even throb — both winds and waves conspiring 11 162 LETTER NO. 12. to its comfort. I was up and out early ; and we were coasting New Zealand some distance to the West. About ten o’clock we began steaming directly towards the Coast, which appeared at first to be an unbroken mountain wall in front, whilst off Northward an open plain stretched to the Shore. After a while a rift appeai’ed, which widened as we approached, and opened an Inlet of the Ocean, which we entered, and sighted Littleton at the farther end — built, like Wellington, partly on the Shore and partly on the Mountain side. Littleton is the Port of Christchurch, seven miles further inland. The Inlet is an open one, and the Harbor is formed by a rough Sea-wall, within which the Steamer passed, and was cabled at a Landing. Bennetts called my attention to the wreck of a large sail- ing Vessel near the opening of the Inlet, cast there twelve mouths ago, and I should think from its open condition not a safe place in stormy weather, when the Ocean is up from the East. And the Sea- wall, which guards, indeed makes the Harbor, appears to be of a temporary character. Behind the mountains lie the Canterbury Plains, a great area of level country, hid from view entirely by this single Range — a curious formation. A short walk brought us to the Station of the Rail Road from Littleton to Christchurch — a Narrow Gauge — which penetrates the Mountain by a tunnel, a mile and a quarter in length ; and in a little while, out of its darkness, springs into the light of this extended Plain, on which Christchurch is located — seemingly with its environ- ments and suburbs — partaking the characteristics of the Plain in its widespread plan. On our arrival, we walked to this Hotel, where Bennetts himself lives, and sent our Baggage by local Express. Eixing myself in my quarters I hired a Hansom, many of which were on the streets — the first I have ridden in since I was in London — and with Bennetts drove out a mile or two to witness a Sheep Auction then going on. These Auctions are on Wednesday of every week. Bennetts himself was, he told me, engaged in the business, but recently sold out his interest and good will, and is now buying and selling on his own account, and from what I can infer has made a success of it. The business is conducted by Brokers or Factors, who sell and guarantee the owners against loss, a ticklish affair, and Bennetts says scarce any of them have made any money — some have been ruined — the hazards are too great for certain success. He introduced me to several of them — highly respectable men they CHRISTCHURCH. 163 were in their looks and bearing, and sensible in their talk. There were from ten to fifteen thousand sheep on the ground, in connected pens, covering a large area. The Auctioneer walks upon a broad plank, extending along and on top of the enclosures, whence he can be distinctly seen and heard. There were a great many people present — sturdy, good looking men — giving me a favorable idea of the Yeomanry of New Zealand, and nearly all of them of English and Scotch Phiz. I moved among them and talked Sheep learnedly, and knowing I was an American, they gave ready ear, for the out- side world now thinks America “prodigious” — and doubtless they were sure I was most intelligent and scientific on Sheep matters, as juries in my lifetime have by my confident air been made to believe that I was a wonderful horse-man, when there is scarce any depart- ment of knowledge of which I know less. I spent an hour or two pleasantly there, and then came back alone, leaving my Friend among his people, talking — maybe, buying sheep. The day has been the perfection of weather — clear and bright, but cool. If this be a sample of Christchurch’s Summer, it has much to boast of. I strolled about the streets for a while, which ended my sight- seeing for the day. The Hotel is full. The Steamer last night was full — four of us in one little cabin laid away like the Chinese stow themselves in an Opium Den ; indeed, wherever I have been, throngs of travellers greet me — mainly English and Scotch — either from the Old Country, or Colonial — but not a single American. Same City and Hotel, Thursday, February 20, 1890. I strolled with Mr. Bennetts about the streets this morning. I stopped into a Shoemaker’s shop and had a stitch put in my shoe to save it; that is a precaution which engages me on every Tour, for, you know, I can buy none ready-made to fit me, and badly shod, my pedestrian capabilities are hampered, if not undone. We then went to a Silversmith shop and bought a piece for the Set, having the name and date engraved. We then parted, I wandering back to the Hotel, taking Christchurch gradually in. 164 LETTER NO. 12. In tlie afternoon, my Friend drove ont with me to the Park and Gardens. We proposed to visit the Museum, but the hours of open had gone, and it was closed. It is located just at the Gate of the Gardens, which we visited, strolling over them. They contain from seventy to a hundred acres, and are most creditably and highly im- proved, with trees, shrubbery, and grass. Among the trees is an Oak, planted in 1863 in commemoration of the Marriage of the Prince of Wales. It is now a large, healthy tree, and bids fair to “live long and be happy,’’ perchance with more vigor and freer from trouble and care than his life has been, or promises to be. Through the Gar- dens runs the Avon River, a clear, pellucid stream, where fish disport themselves and young men and maids were boating — beneath the shadows of big willows which arched themselves above — a lovely scene altogether in the fine afternoon. Avon, Christchurch, Canter- bury, and a host of other names are around, brought from the Old Country, which by their memories delight the Loyal Britisher’s heart and keep it warm. There is a small Zoological Garden and pools and hatcheries for Fish — not of much import — which did not interest me as much as the ti’ees and grass, which the rich soil had helped into abundant foliage and bloom. Then we took again our Hansom and drove along the Avon, arched with willows, and through many of the streets, lined with comfortable, some handsome, homes and enclosures, more than I had seen in any other New Zealand City. We passed the Cathedi’al of the Established Church of England, a quite fine modern Gothic Edifice of Stone, with a striking spire, the top of which was missing. My Friend told me an Earthquake came along some months ago, an unusual thing hereabouts, and shook it off, the only serious damage public or private in the City, and the Church being unhurt, that can be readily repaired. The Spire was the gift of Mr. Rhodes, the Father of the youths I travelled with and left in the North Island ; and they have promised to restore it. At Dinner, the Manager of the Hotel told me Mr. Connolly, Con- sul at Auckland, was here, and inquired for me. I saw him after-' wai’ds, and we spent several hours pleasantly together. He has come on to right matters with his Consular Agent here, who has been behaving badly and appropriating what does not belong to him. Mr. Cokey, the Proprietor, came in and joined us, and had wine and BELFAST. 165 liquors brought, and we discussed England and America. Cokey is an old-time Britisher, and believes in England and her Destiny; and I said some things which made him glad he belonged to so glorious a Country, and more confident than ever of that Destiny, Same City and Hotel, Friday, February 21, 1890. Jardine, my one-legged Friend, travelling with his Valet, and Campbells, and others whom I met and maybe mentioned in the North Island, overtook me here to-day. The Tourists’ name is Legion, and they are running about like ants over their hill — and nearly all are English and Scotch, I meet and talk with many whom I have not time to name. Bennetts took me out to Belfast — seven miles — in his Dog Cart to see one of the great Freezing Factories of Sheep. On the ride, I had an opportunity of seeing how Christchurch has extended its suburbs for miles around ; and how the Plains have everywhere been converted into cultivated areas, full of adorned and comfortable homes, and wealth. The fields are enclosed with hedges mainly ; — of Hawthorn, which does not seem to do well, the insects destroying the leaves, as with us ; of Cedar, which does well ; of Gorse or F urze, which, whilst it makes a good fence, appears to spread, and I should think, without precaution, would convert itself into a noxious weed ; there are none of Osage Orange, which would, I think, do better than any they now use. We were received by the Manager of the Concern with cordiality, and conducted through the Establishment: first, to the Slaughter House, where the innocent Sheep and Lambs are treated, like we saw on my First Tour the equally innocent Hogs and Pigs in Chicago — save, that the former are simply skinned and eviscerated, and their carcasses prepared to be frozen — a “cold obstruction” of which Shakespeare knew nothing, nor “dreamed of in his philosophy” when he gave us those significant words. With equal economy here, every part of the animal is preserved and converted into use. The Manager then conducted us to the Machinery, operated by Steam, where the air is robbed of its heat and forced into chambers ; with a Lantern he took us to these, and opening the iron doors led us into the casements, where the carcasses were hung up, frozen stiff 166 LETTER NO. 12. by the cold which met us, like the breath from an Iceberg. Then we went to the chambers, equally chill, where, sewed in canvass, they were packed away, ready to be taken to the Vessel, built with the same provision for their preservation, and transported, mainly to London, where at the Docks there are, also. Refrigerators, whence they are distributed for consumption over the City and Kingdom. These Ships will, some of them, carry forty thousand, thus prepared, as I have hitherto remarked. It takes tlu’ee or four days to get the carcasses ready for transpor- tation ; and this Concern prepares three hundred and fifty thousand annually. The Plant is owned by an individual or company, and charges for the work so much per pound. The sheep owner preserves his property in the animals, and paying for the freezing and other preparation and for the transportation, consigns them to agents in London for sale. Thus the loss, if any, falls upon the owner ; and Bennetts tells me, the fluctuation in the foreign market sometimes entails it seriously. But, however, that may be, the Enterprise is a great blessing to these Colonies, furnishing the only means possible to dispose of the thousands, even millions, of animals that otherwise — save their wool and hides — would be lost ; and equally to the Old Country, in giving meat-food to the mass of its people. The beneficence of similar Enterprises, I called your attention to in South America, when travelling there. On our return drive, I observed more particularly the products of the fields — grain, grass, and vegetables; the grain, principally Wheat, of which the crops had all been cut and in shock or stack — the shocks badly done, seemingly only temporary piles, the stacks admirably built, often beautifully thatched, as I observed, you remember, in the Old Country, — the straw golden and manifesting an abundant yield ; my Friend said thirty bushels to the acre. Much Red Clover covered the ground heavily, now in full bloom, than which no richer or more beautiful crop can grow. They tell me the Humble Bee has been introduced, and is doing his proper work in Nature’s Economy. We stopped near town at a gentleman’s — Mr. Matson, whom I met at the Sheep Yards and who is one of the Brokers and salesmen there — to see a drove of African Ostriches. He was absent ; but his son kindly showed them to us. He has about forty full-grown and some young ones ; the latter are hatched by the old ones — the heat CHRISTCHURCH. 167 not great enough for the sand process of their ancestors and relatives in the home land. They are mainly hatched and cared for by the males — tall and courtly gentlemen that they are. The young are kept and cared for by themselves ; the old together to themselves in a large Paddock ; and a finer, better-conditioned lot I never saw. They are sometimes dangerous, and will attack you, kicking fiercely and tearing you with their claw. But they seemed gentle enough this afternoon, and when we entered the Paddock, gathered around us very peacefully, towering above us some of them several feet. I was more afraid of their pecking my face or putting their stupid bill into my eye, than I was of their heels or toes. Our young Friend showed us their wing and tail plumes, just ready to be cut, which were truly royal. He had several Llamas, also ; but they presented a sorry look to the noble creatures I saw in South America in their lofty homes among the Andes. Same City and Hotel, Saturday, February 22, 1890. I walked to the Museum this morning, and viewed its contents, and highly creditable they are — the best collection I have seen in New Zealand, embracing things new and old, foreign and domestic; but especially rich in things belonging to the Polynesian Islands. Of course, I cannot pretend to stop to give you even a summary of them. I must, however, mention the fine skeletons, large and small, of the Moa. They have gathered the curious, wingless, and, doubt- less, magnificent bird that I have hitherto, I think, spoken of, and which has but recently disappeared from among living things and is entirely extinct. Two of these skeletons are nearly eleven feet high and shaped like the Ostrich. Their name and that of the Mahoris are associated in these Islands — the largest food-creature they pos- sessed; for New Zealand is exceeding scant in its Zoology. It is claimed, that the Mahoris turned their attention to man-eating because they had no other animals on which to feed — having only the Dog and the Pig, which they brought with them when they came hither in Legendary times. There are still wild Pigs — not a few — in some sections, with the Phenomenal snout — we would call Pine-Hillers — not yet modified by Civilization. The Moa, having no wings, trusted only to his legs for safety, and the Mahoris, with their primitive 168 LETTER NO. m. weapons, found them comparatively easy prey. But they sent them only a little ahead, and are fast following them to the Happy Hunt- ing Ground. I then visited the Cathedral — finer outside than in. It stands fronting an open space near the centre of the City, and is the most conspicuous structure here, with its Earthquake-truncated Spire. I ascended it, that, from open balconies, I might view the City and the surrounding Country, and the better take in the lay of both. It was a lofty climb for me ; but an English gentleman, who went up at the same time with his wife, helped me in ticklish places, and the sight was ample reward. Around were spread out the City and Canterbury Plain, on which it stands; the latter bounded on the East and North by the Ocean and the bunch of Mountains through which we came from Port Littleton by tunnel — called the Port Hills ; on the West, by Mountains which I believe are spurs of the Southern Alps ; and on the South, by the horizon — a wide-spreading fertile area — the City itself, and that in view, hid away or adorned with trees and vegeta- tion. The town contains, they claim, thirty thousand people, and with its suburbs and outlying settlements, thirty more. In the vicinity of the Museum are the buildings of the Christ- church University ; built of stone, in Gothic Style, and scattered loosely about in the old-time way. After Lunch, I walked with Bennetts to witness a Game of Polo — to their Grounds on the suburbs. They were fine riders. The horses were all good and well ridden. Bennetts’ was a thoroughbi’ed mare, a beautiful animal, and he did, by his easy riding, justice to her grace and speed. It was the first Polo I had ever witnessed, and simple curiosity took me. To describe it in short — it is the Game of Bandy on horseback. The bounds being marked, and the object to drive home a wooden ball, the size of the double fist, with a bandy, from the seat in the saddle. To be expert, requires not only good riding, but a fleet and manageable horse. The animals, excited by the chase, took equal interest in the game with their riders. I left before it was over, which Bennetts told me he regretted, as it was really gotten up for my benefit, and he wanted to introduce me to the gentlemen and ladies present — an ordeal which I by no means desired, and therefore was glad to get away. After Dinner I met accidentally with Mr. William J. Nead, of Philadelphia. He said he knew me well by reputation. He and CHRTSTCHVRCH. 169 his wife have been travelling for nearly five years, and we talked of our experiences. He has seen much of the World, but I rather think he has wandered sometimes aimlessly. He has been a Railroad man, and I infer done well thereat. He is good looking and intelligent, of about my age. When passing cards, and writing the date on mine, I asked him what day of the month it was? He said, Washington’s Birthday. I told him, mine, too ; and then, for the first time, the Anniversary was brought to my attention. I am sure you all at Home are not so oblivious, and send me tenderest greetings across the World. He is the only American I have seen in New Zealand: he said the same of me. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, February 23, 1890. I went this morning to the Cathedral of the Established Church ; on my way, two Bands were parading the streets with processions of men, women, and children, making much ado with their instruments and songs. I left them gathered on the corner of the street, making Proclamation, that they were the Salvation Army, and lo! were bringing the Gospel nigh to every one of them. I make no further comment now. The Congregation at the Cathedral was not large. There was a good deal of form and ceremony. The Verger with his- Rod pre- ceded the Choristers, twenty-five or thirty, big and little, who in turn preceded the two Ministers. One read the Service, the other preached. I ought not to say, read, rather intoned — whining the magnificent Liturgy insignificantly and spoiling its noble utterances. What a shame this should be done. It was written to be read with manliest voice. If the Psalms ought to be sung — then sung, as David sang them, with jubilant notes of timbrel and harp, and loftiest enthu- siasm burst out in song — not whined in puling, feeble notes, unworthy of the place and theme. The Sermon was only tolerable ; not much in it or in the preacher. Alas ! that Service which they so sadly spoil at the Lecturn, in time, to be avenged, spoils them for the Pulpit. The wind was up this afternoon and sent the dust whirling through the broad streets of Christchurch, making the inside more agreeable than the out. 170 LETTER NO. IS. After Dinner, Mr. Nead and I had a long talk about our world- wide travels. Maybe, we will meet again in Australia, and make our way together to Europe by the Cape Colonies, which latter he has not yet visited. Faiklie, New Zealand, Gladstone Hotel, Monday, February 24, 1890. Here I am among the foothills of the Western Mountains of New Zealand. I must tell you how I got here. This morning, my Friend Bennetts came to my Room very early, to bid me Good Bye ! he had to go olf on business. I was sorry to part with him; he has been unbrokenly considerate and attentive since we picked each other up among the Hot Lakes of the North Island. I have had a pleasant and profitable time in Christchurch ; but I should not have stayed so long could I have made connections for my further progress. This thing of connection is a serious matter to the traveller making long and distant Tours. You will recall how much time I most unwillingly lost in South America, — amounting to not less than a month or six weeks in a travel of seven months. I am now on my way to Mount Cook, and would have left Christ- church for it sooner, could I have made connections with the Stage Line from this point. But the Stage leaves here only twice a week, — Tuesdays and Fridays — and I had to wait till this morning before starting. The delay was of such magnitude, and entails further delay in the leaving of the Island, that I thought seriously of giving up the Excursion ; but its importance in connection with a true knowledge of New Zealand’s scenic and industrial interest was such, that I resolved to lose the time, for the benefit of the results. I wanted Mr. and Mrs. Nead to join me ; she was anxious to do so : but he said he had made all his arrangements, even bought his tickets on the Land Travel and the Steamer through to Sydney, Australia, that he would have to forego it. Thus I am alone again. My day’s experience satisfies me, that I continue most excellent com- pany unto myself, as I have been often before, you know, upon my Tours. With company, I enjoy it — and when we part, I feel a sense of loss ; when I start alone, my Alter Ego forthwith hastens to my side, and we jog along in delightful companionship. CHRISTCHURCH TO TIMARU. 171 I left the Hotel, having given parting salutations to the Friends I had made, and by eleven o’clock was on train with my Baggage, bound for Timarn — you can follow me on the Map I sent you — distant from Christchurch just one hundred miles. The Road, like all in New Zealand, is narrow gauge ; like most, is owned and run by the Government — is in fine order, with reasonably good cars ; and though not fast, put us down in Timaru at forty minutes past two. Your Map will show you, that it runs Southward, lengthwise, across the Canterbury Plain. After leaving the neighborhood of the City, there was a manifest deterioration both in the cultivation and the productive properties of the soil. I learn this is the case to the Westward, also, nearer the Mountains, of which I spoke when de- scribing their general contour, which, whilst light for the production of grain, is good for sheep, and is thus mainly used. It is divided into fields by hedges — principally Furze or Gorse — which shows, in many places, the difficulty attending its use, it having spread itself broadcast, like a troublesome weed. The wheat was generally fine, of clean, golden straw, badly shocked but beautifully stacked, and, I was told, yielding thirty bushels to the acre. We crossed three Rivers, the Rakaia, the Ashburton, and the Rangitata, which flow now in small channels through River-beds, which showed that in high water they must be broad and rapid water courses. These beds were nothing but rounded pebbles and boulders, evidencing how they had been rolled by w'ater and glaciers in the cycles gone, when Time was young : and here and along their banks, where we could see segments of the Strata, showing that the substratum of the Canterbury Plain is of this material, and their richness and fertility dependent upon the amount of soil which over- lies, vaying in productiveness and value according to its depth. The Country is everywhere supplied with good Roads — easy to make, by reason of its level, and easily metalled by the pebbles of which I have spoken. The Plain extends Southward nearly one hundred miles on the East, reaching to the Ocean ; on the West, bounded by the Mountains, which, with the road, incline towards the Coast, till they break down into foot hills and rolling Country, nearing Timaru, which is seated by the Sea. Great areas have been planted in trees — sometimes in avenues, sometimes groves, sometimes even forests of Lombardy Poplar, Pines 172 LETTER NO. 12. and Eucalipti — the Blue Gum of Australia — especially the last, where formerly, like our Prairies, not a single indigenous tree grew. They appear to be flourishing, and soon the Plain will, in many places, be a wooded region. When I arrived at Timaru, who should gladly greet me on the Platform but my old Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Sturrock ; they had been spending a day or two with some Scotch acquaintances, to whom they introduced me. The train moving off, we soon parted again : they going on to Dunedin, bound for their home in Melbourne. Thus do we travellers come and go. I found out Cook’s Agent in town and bought Stage tickets from this place to Mount Cook, such things having served me a good part in the North Island. Then I took a snack at the Station Restaurant and strolled about till the hour of the departure of the train for this place — distant thirty-seven miles — where we arrived at eight o’clock, a little after dark. I left my Trunk and Deck Chair in the Luggage Room at the Station in Timaru, and with my Satchel I came to this Hotel ; where I am now writing these lines in an excellent Room after an excellent Supper. The Country to this place from Timaru is much like that of this morning — being behind or West of the Ridge which bounds the Canterbury Plain — save, that after a while it ascends and becomes more rolling and broken. We will let the whole thing alone now for the night and go to bed, simply saying, that the wind blew all day in whirligigs and before we got here it rained. I hope the weather will settle itself by the morning. At Pukaki, New Zealand, Hotel Pukaki, Tuesday, February 25, 1890. My hopes were I'ealized with regard to the weather. This morn- ing, the clouds were light, and did not betoken rain. We left the Hotel in the Stage at eight o’clock, and by eleven the clouds had drifted away and a clean Blue expanse was above us the rest of the day. There were only three of us : a Mr. Thomas Henry, of London, another gentleman, whose name I have not learned, and myself. We all occupied the Box seat with the Driver, it being very broad, and our Baggage occupied the inside of the Coach. FAIRLIE TO PUKAKI. 173 We drove twenty-six miles by twelve o’clock to Tekapo, where we Lunched. The Road ascended from Fairlie, which has an elevation of one thousand feet to an elevation of twenty-five hundred, so thp Driver said. In the beginning, wheat and oats were cultivated ; after a while only Sheep Ranges were around us. The Country is very dry now, and the grass is sere and yellow. After Lunch, we drove to this place, thirty miles, by six o’clock — over a Country of similar character — broad, dry, level plains, surrounded by fine Mountains, without a sprig of vegetation, the landscape, however, relieved by Sheep Stations embowered in trees — generally Eucaliptus, Pine, and Lombardy Poplar — looking like Oases. Numerous flocks of Sheep, I believe, invariably Merinos, we meet everywhere. Early in the afternoon. Mount Cook showed himself; indeed, in the morning we saw his top above the intervening Mountains. But after Lunch he was grandly conspicuous, with his white surface, lift- ing his bulky form like a truncated Pyramid, with the exception of one side, which reared itself high up like a shining wall, twelve thousand three hundred and forty-nine feet in height. Around him are many lesser snowy Mountains ; among them Mount Tasman, eleven thousand four hundred and fifty-nine feet ; Mount Sefton ; Mount Hochstetter, ten thousand nine hundred and fifty-nine ; and others, extending themselves into a fine Range, towering above their neighbors, accompanying us with their distant presence, almost with- out intermission, till we reached here. We passed two sheets of water : Lake Tekapo, in full view of the Hotel where we Lunched, and Lake Pukaki, along which we drove some miles to its foot where it issues in the Pukaki River, on which this Hotel, where I am writing, stands — a pretty sheet of water over the length of which Mount Cook and his confreres stand like a majestic battlement — a beautiful sight — the Setting Sun and a young Crescent Moon adding to its impressiveness. The Hermitage, Mt. Cook, Wednesday, February 26, 1890. The day has again been cloudless, a pleasant breeze stirring, but the Sun so hot as to necessitate the constant use of my umbrella, reminding me of many days I have spent among the Alps. Our Carriage was an open one — but strong and well built, and our team 174 LETTER NO. IS. and driver good — with oiir four fine horses and comparatively light load, we whirled along merrily. ^ The Hotel wliere we stopped last night is at the foot of Lake Pukaki, where it issues in the River Pukaki — a pretty sight. The water is of a milkyish green, not unlike Turquoise, stained by the sediment of the Mountains from which it comes. The entire Lake is visible, stretching Northward — thirteen miles in length — and beyond is the Valley through which the Tasman River, that makes it, flows ; the whole terminated by Mount Cook, where he and his snow-clad confreres stand in grand array, the base and lower Range in front letting down into a cusp, that they may be seen in their impressive majesty. I know no great Mountain more finely located to present his most striking features, not even the Matterhorn — seen through the Valley of the Visp. Coming Southward, we saw Mount Cook yesterday for thirty miles, lifting his huge bulk splendidly from out the other Mountains; to-day he filled our foreground, whilst for forty miles we travelled directly towards him : — for thirteen along the Lake ; for twenty-seven along the Tasman River, flowing through a waste of shingle and moraine, draining the Glaciers which, whilst we advanced, came more and more in view, filling the Mountain flanks. We left the Hotel at Pukaki about half-past eight o’clock and reached here — forty miles — at six in the evening. We stopped at a Sheep Station, at the end of twenty-five miles, to I'est the horses and eat the Lunch our Hotel Proprietor had fixed up for us. We had everything but Tea, and the Driver went to the Station House to get a kettle for us in which to boil it. He said the Lady of the House sent an invitation for us to come there and partake of her hospitality : but this declining, the Driver brought us a pitcher of Tea — a present from her and a good one — and we ate our Lunch in the Shepherd’s Hut in true rustic style. The Road yesterday was very dusty, much of which we gathered on our clothes and persons, and a travel-grimed set we were when we stopped last night ; to-day we had little of it, the Road not being so much used, and often driving upon the grass. But what we gained in cleanliness, we lost in smoothness, and we had, till we reached Mount Cook, a bobby ride over knobs of grass and rocks innumerable — the Sun, too, blazing hot and demanding my umbrella. THE HERMITAGE— MT. COOK. 175 Approaching, the Valley narrowed ; the Tasman River flowed through a wide bed in many currents, and the Mountains drawing nearer, showed themselves more impressively. To some of them significant names had been given : on the left, Balaklava, without snow, stood in jagged outline like a Pinacle ; on the left, Sebastopol, of similar features, frowned across the way. In front, Mount Cook — in the Mahori tongue Oorangi — Cloud in Heaven — continued to assert his Royalty; whilst down his side and around him, from lesser Mountains, hung many Glaciers. To the right of him were the Muller, the Hooker, the Ball, the Hochstetter, but greatest of all, the Tasman Glacier, eighteen miles long by two in width, supposed to be among the greatest in the World, only surpassed by the Folgefond of Norway, and the Muir of Alaska, the latter of which is fifty miles in length. The Tasman, for miles of our drive, w’as a splendid sight, resting in its Mountain bed, and gleaming upon us with its fateful face. I said, resting; but that is a mistake. Glaciers rest not, ever pushing down into lower regions, they waste away, leaving in their front the black Moraine — the detritus of the Mountains, they gather in their progress. Thus it is with Tasman : — below, the huge pile of dusty dirt and Ice ; above, its white shining current like a frozen River. Most of the Mountains around are covered with Snow and Ice, or present the bare naked rock. But a few are covered with bush and stunted trees. Near one of these, we, in the distance, saw the Her- mitage seated : a wide-spread, one story house, j^resenting a most inviting look to the traveller as the high Mountains were casting the shadows of the Evening; we drove up and were cordially receiv’ed by the Host and soon comfortably stowed away. After Dinner, I walked out to enjoy the scene. The Hermitage is located upon a plat of level ground, surrounded by high Mountains, many of them perennially clad in Glaciers and Snow. And I will here remark, that I have never seen Mountains which presented their Glaciers more conspicuously. Mount Cook himself is not visible in his entirety from the House; his top shines over a lower Mountain. Whilst I walked, the Sun set for us, and we were in its shadows : not thus the Monarch ; for a long time thereafter, his crown was dazzling bright, and the greater Monarch, in passing away, in recog- nition, threw upon its silver sheen a radiance of aureate hue. To add 176 LETTER NO. 12. impressiveness to the hour and scene, again and again, the distant Avalanche came to us like the sound of artillery. The Hermitage, Thw'sday, February 27, 1890. When we arrived yesterday, we found half a dozen guests ; two of whom, gentlemen from Australia travelling in a special buggy, we spent the night with at Pukaki, and who preceded and arrived here before us last evening — Borland and Smith, their names. This morning, early, all left, except those two and ourselves. I have found out the name of my other companion, who has been travelling with me — Mr. Vine, of this Island. My comrades and Mr. Huddleston, the Proprietor of the Her- mitage, went out for a long walk among the Mountains. They invited me to join them, which I declined, not desiring such an ex- perience among the Rocks and Boulders. Mr. Borland and I, taking the Manager’s son, a little boy, to show us the path, walked to the Muller Glacier, much shorter and the most accessible of them all. But before we got through, we found even this disagreeable enough, climbing over its Moraine — a wilderness of boulders, big rocks, and detritus. There is nothing attractive in the Moraine of this Glacier, — Ice, and Rocks, and rubbish mixed in dirty and ugly confusion, showing how hard it is for the Glacier to die. These Mountains must be very much shattered ; for when the Glacier moves down- ward in its irresistible force it not only grinds infinitesimally the rocks in its pathway, as is usually the case, but here has brought down immense masses torn from their bed, and when the Ice melted has left them strewn around, a Cyclopean wreck. We climbed over and among them with difficulty : the boy-Guide, whose Father and Mother are Swiss, leaping from one to the other with Chamois agility. When we returned to the House, Borland and Smith left in their buggy. Smith told me that he had had a serious Sunstroke not long ago, and the other day, on this tour, fell from his horse in a fit. He, therefore, dared not walk. Thus my Friends Henry and Vine are alone with me. We have the whole house to ourselves, and are having a quiet, good time : enjoying the objects around us. THE HEBMITAOE~MT. COOK. 177 Sitting on the front Verandah, with the Glaciers on the high Mountain before us, looking down from their cones, we were enjoying the cool breezes they were breathing, the Bush-clad lower Mountain near by seemingly alive with the music of Birds. Mr. Huddleston invited us to go with him into the Bush, and he would bring them to our side. He took his whistle with him, and imitating their notes, he soon gathered the songsters about us, joyously tuning their pipes and fluttering from bough to bough above our heads. Among them were the New Zealand Wren, a tiny interesting thing, a diminutive likeness of our own ; the Linnet — the Tom Tit ; but above all, the famous New Zealand Bell-Bird — in Mahori tongue, the Korimako or Makomako — to which Captain Cook refers in his travels, filling the woods with sweet sounds, like the Chimes of Bells. It is a small Bird — about the half the size of a Robin, of light greenish color, and quick and active in its movements — of mocking gifts and singing merrily. Once this Bird was abundant over both Islands. It is rapidly disappearing — in the North Island, almost extinct. Much conjecture has been expended with regard to this “taking off”; it is a honey-bird, and some have thought that the introduction of the Honey Bee, which has escaped from the domestic hive and now abounds in the wild, has consumed the food on which these Birds mainly fed, and consequently they have gone ; others have thought, with more plausibility, that they have been destroyed by the Norway Rat, which, introduced some years ago, has swept off the Native small black Rat, and now holds possession of the field, as he has done with us. I think I have remarked, with what hospitality foreign impor- tations are received by these Islands, even to the extirpation of their own. The seemingly defenceless house fly, we know so well, has, wherever brought, cleaned out the Blue Bottle. In the North Island, there are swarms of the former ; I saw few or none of the latter there. On the contrary, here no house flies have been brought; and the Blue Bottle goes thumping about all day — is doing so whilst I write. Which is the worse, the bane or antidote ? The poor Mahori says, that everything the white man brings destroys some Native product, which they have ever regarded as a benefit or a beauty; soon, it will be their time to go. Alas ! it is their time now. “As the Pak4ha fly has driven out the Mahori fly ; As the Pak4ha grass has killed the Mahori grass ; As the Pak^ha rat has slain the Mahori rat ; 12 178 LETTER NO. IZ. As the Pak^ha clover has starved the Maliori fern ; So will the Pak6ha destroy the Mahori.” Whilst it occurs to me, I must mention another curious Bird, called the Ivea. It is of the Parrot family, and until quite recently fed on grain and grubs; lately it has taken to attacking sheep, seating itself upon the victim’s back and with its long sharp beak eating into its vitals. This has been relied upon by some, as confirmation of the theory of Evolution ; but hardly very strong ; for we are told by an Ornithologist of the Islands, that he had four or five different birds pf the PaiTot sjiecies confined in a cage. They lived harmoniously for a while. All at once the stronger not only attacked the weaker, when he was sick and feeble, but killed and ate him: till at last one only — the fittest — which in Nature’s economy means the strongest in his sphere — survived. The boys about the house had snared two of them, and I went out to see the creatures that have excited such interest and curiosity among the Scientists. They are much like the Parrot — stout and strong, with bills fit for the work of digging, as their nature has hitherto been, in the ground for bugs and grubs, and more recently into the vitals of the innocent, unwary, sheep. He has an eye and look just like a fellow who would do that kind of thing. In the Evening after Dinner, we strolled about the neighborhood with Huddleston and enjoyed the lights and shadows of the bleak rock Mountains and their nobler comrades, clothed in white, and admired the easy manner in which the Sun withdrew and allowed the Moon to occupy with feebler powers his Domain. Erom these meditations we were constantly brought back to the tangible by innumerable sand flies, which unceasingly demanded attention with our handkerchiefs. The pestiferous creatures, however, do not dis- turb one long : only for a short time towards sunset ; they do not appear during the day, and when night falls, they vanish. Nor happily here, does the Mosquito take their place ; the cool air from the Glacier seems to be too much for the filigree framework of the little monster. The Hermitage, Mt. Cook, Friday, February 28, 1890. Huddleston, my two Friends and I this morning walked to one of the lower mountains, clad in forest, called the Governor’s Bush, because one of the Governors of New Zealand used to rusticate there THE HERMITAGE— MT. COOK. 179 in Camp. It is a pretty reach of verdure, and near by is a minia- ture waterfall, and a limpid sparkling stream comes down from the Glacier and Snow. It looked a very short stretch away — just around the corner as it were — but these vast mountains minify space in such manner, that without knowledge or experience, it is not possible for you to accui’ately measure distance. It was at least four or five miles there and back. But the stroll was pleasant under the Blue, cloud- less Sky : my umbrella guarding me against the Sun. We sat down in the cool shade, and our Proprietor again for us played the Bird-Charmer, with his little tin whistle. He catches immediately their various notes and imitates them all. We kept quiet in our places, and soon the Choristers came, respondent to the call and filled the trees around us with their fluttering and music. They hopped upon the ground, they flew from branch to branch in seeming exstacy and tuned their little pipes till we had a mountain Choir. Though of various species, they were a happy family : the Bell-Bird, the Tom Tit, an active, diminutive bob-tailed, fussy fel- low — the Linnet, the Wren, the Kaka, a species of Parrot, approach- ing a crow in size, but of rich plumage — the Kea, of which I have already told you, with his sheep proclivities, and the New Zealand Woodland Hen — in Mahori lingo, the Moka — of which I have seen a good many in coming here, about twice the size of a Partridge, and not unlike it in appearance and voice, though of heavier build — a friendly creature, coming with apparent confidence very near, and then darting away upon its feet, rarely if ever upon the wing — a thievish wretch, like the Raven, stealing anything it can manage with its beak, whether edible or not. A gentleman, camping out in this vicinity, lost his watch, and thought his tent had been entered by thieves whilst he was asleep — it was found afterwards in the Scrub, and had evidently been carried away by a sprightly Wood- land Hen. With these interesting creatures gathered about, enticed by the imitation of their own notes, and each in his own way, respond- ing jubilantly, was a sight worth seeing. I went no further, but wandered leisurely back. My friends made a day of it : climbing the mountains, where prudence taught me I ought not to venture. They did not return till sunset. I spent the time in strolling in safer places, and looking at scenes which I am quite sure are not magnified by nearness. Independent of the danger and fatigue, I had rather look upward toward the summit of a snow- 180 LETTER NO. 12. clad mountain, than from it downward upon its base. There is more of majesty in it, to the observer, when it towers to the Sky. Mount Cook, though not one of the World’s highest by any means, has never been completely ascended. A Rev. Mr. Green, of the Church of England, together with two Alpine climbers — Kauffman and Boss — a few years ago reached a few minutes of its top, when a storm coming up, they were compelled to descend to save their lives. I have read Mr. Green’s well told story of their effort, which leaves the impression of all such adventures — how small the profit for the hardship endured, and risk of life ! To one below it does not seem so difficult as Matterhorn and other mountains that have been frequently scaled. But from Green’s narrative, there are almost insurmountable difficulties which are hid from the view of the distant observer. As at present advised, I will not attempt to finish Green’s and Kauffman’s work — for me. Mount Cook will remain unsealed. When my friends returned, they brought me some mountain flowers — especially the Edelweiss — of which, you remember, I sent you specimens from the Alps. It means, literally, Noble White — Edel, noble — Weiss, white — and though not the most beautiful by any means of snow-flowers, is one of the most interesting, and attrac- tive by the tenacity with which it clings to its lofty. Ice-bound home, in whatever quarter of the Earth it may have its habitat. It loves the Glacier and the spots where Frost perennially reigns. The temperature is delightful in the shade : the Sun knows how to shine fiercely, as he ever does in regions with such environments. Towards his going down, cool airs creep from the Glaciers and chill his rays. We are not very high here — only twenty-six hundred feet ; the mountains rise right around us to spheres of perpetual snow. The Hermitage, Mount Cook, N. Z., Saturday, March 1, 1890. I have not much to put down to-day, simply strolling out to view the Glacier scenes. Huddleston went with us this morning by a path he had made for the benefit of his guests to an elevation, whence the Hooker Glacier could be seen, sending down its tribute to the Muller. In the afternoon, by another pathway. Vine and I walked to an elevation, whence the Huddleston Glacier was plainly visible THE HERMITAGE— MT. COOK. 181 throughout its whole length, from top to bottom of Mount Selwyn, bringing its tribute to the same. It is a striking spectacle to see the contest between the Ice and the Sun ; and how the former, over- come, tumbles down in avalanches, or tears pieces from the mountain or grinds them to powder, and brings all down in common ruin with itself. The Moraine is the Battlefield of Glaciers, and indicates how fierce has been the struggle, and how, overcome, they leave a wreck, showing to after ages the violence and futility of the contest. Below us lay this Battlefield and wreck, strewn with pulverized stone, and big blocks of Rock and Ice in daz’k confusion. Wasted below, they slide down, some of them, a foot or more, it is said a day, and thus in time must disappear, unless renewed : whether renewed or not is a question with Geologists. On every hand are seen Moraines resting in the Mountain Gorges — the beds of Glaciers gone. They have had their day, and have been gathered to their sources : some are dropping otf in avalanches, leaving only a fragment on the Moun- tain’s flank — some are, like a frozen River, weeping itself to death at the Mountain’s foot ; and all are interesting, whatever be their phase or mode of exit. , The Mountains themselves often tell the story of their lives, and of the “old man,” by whom they have been ridden. Standing like pinnacles, they show by their Aretes and Couloirs — their Ridges and narrow gullies — how the Glacier has plucked and worn them in its slide, and numerous surmises are suggested as to how much influence they have had in the present structure and condition of the Earth, even where they have long since ceased to have a local habitation or a name. About six o’clock, the Stage came in, and a four-seated buggy, containing ten or twelve passengers, a large addition to our little party. Among them is Sir Thomas Mackelwraith, the Premier of Queensland, Australia, and his wife and child. I have made the acquaintance of none of them as yet. The Hermitage, Mt. Cook, Sunday, March 2, 1890. Most of the Guests went out this morning with the Proprietor for a stroll. I stayed in the Hotel, and quietly enjoyed myself, with myself. I read, I lounged, I gave wing to my thoughts and sent 182 LETTER NO. 12. them over the waters, bearing precious memories for you all. I wondered what you were about, and then I wondered, where you thought I was, and what a-doing. The Letters are very few, that, by virtue of the distance and the mails, can pass between us. I send you one or more by every Steamer ; yours come, by reason of the far off points I have chosen for their rendezvous, at intervals exceeding rare. I am looking to Melbourne with longing now, for there alone can I hope to catch them, which will be some days hence. But this I shall finish and dispatch by the next Steamer of the Oceanic Line to San Francisco, and will start it soon enough to intercept the Vessel at Auckland. The afternoon I spent with Sir Thomas Mackelwraith on the Verandah, talking of our respective Countries. Pie is a burly, sensible man, and gave me much information with x’egard to Aus- tralia, its People, its Institutions, and the Questions now agitating the Colonial Public Mind. He says he is regarded as an extreme Liberal; but he is very far from desiring any severance from the Mother Country, nor does he know any party in the Australian Colonies that does. In any scheme, of Colonial Confederation, no idea of severance will find a place. Nor does he know of any wide- spread desire for Imperial Confederation among his people. They are satisfied to remain under the Crown, from which hitherto only benefits have flowed. But I have not time to even enumerate the topics of our talk. Doubtless, this subject will come up again, maybe often, in my Tour through Australia, when I can write more under- standingly about it ; thus much for the present. To-morrow, I move backward on my track. We talked about my Friend Colonel, now Judge, Charles Stuart Mein, of whom I have so much to say in my First Tour, and whom Sir Thomas knows well, both living in Brisbane. He says the Judge has been absent in England for twelve months for the benefit of his health : but has lately returned. Walking out after Dinner, I noticed a mist drifting up the Valley of the Tasman, and bearing evidences of Rain. I think the clear bright weather and the deep Blue Sky which have attended me on this whole Mount Cook jaunt are about to pass away. I should not wonder if to-morrow would bring clouds and rain. MT. COOK TO PUKAKI. 183 PuKAEi, ISTew Zealand, Monday, March 3, 1890. My anticipations of last night were partially realized. It rained during the night and this morning ; but by the time we had Bi’eak- fasted and the Stage started — eight o’clock — it had ceased. Though it continued cloudy, which was good, for the clouds concealed the Sun, and having witnessed the scenery to great advantage on the journey up, we did not need his rays to-day. It, however, did not rain. My Friend Henry remained at Mount Cook, where he designs to sketch for several days longer. Vine came with me, together with four others of the party who arrived on Saturday evening — all Australians. Vine and I took our seats on the Box with the Driver. Sir Thomas Mackelwraith and his family remained. They came out to bid me Good-Bye ! expressing the hope that they would be in Brisbane on my arrival there, that they might entertain me in the City, and also at tkeir Country Seat. For all of which I thanked them cordially, but feared I would not be able to accept their kind hospitality. Bidding the Proprietor farewell, and the Guests, all of whom I by this time knew, we rattled away from Mount Cook Her- mitage, where I had spent several pleasant and profitable days. The Ride itself was more agreeable than the one up, for we had not the intense heat of the Sun, and the temperature was delightful for travelling. At the end of twenty-seven miles, we halted for Lunch, and to rest and feed the horses, and a sure enough rustic time we had. The spot was the site of a Station House, recently moved away, leaving only the chimney of the mansion with its wide- mouthed fire-place, surrounded by numerous trees and shrubbery — fruit and ornamental — a nice place for a Picnic. The Hermitage Proprietor had fixed us up a snack of sandwiches, of meat and pre- serves and bread, and some tea, sugar and milk. We had along cups and plates, and a tin-kettle — here called a Billy — and soon the experienced ones of our party had a fire in the fire-place, and the Billy a-boiling. A door-step of concrete was our table, and around it we gathered and had an excellent meal. Meantime our horses feeding. 184 LETTER NO. 12. Whilst thus occupied we had an opportunity of studying Mahori Woodland Hen nature. Several of them gathered about us with their usual curiosity — dodging in and out of the bushes and trees, and spying our doings. One of the Drivers struck one of them unhappily with a stone, but did not, we thought, seriously hurt it, and we exerted ourselves to aid in its restoration. We thought it was doing well, and on the road to recovery, when one of its brethren or sisters ran out and seeing its crippled condition, forthwith picked it to death, with the instinct and vigor of a Crow to one of its own color under similar circumstances with us. A strange instinct this. Is it from innate brutality, or a desire to relieve from suffering one of their fellows ? We reached here at half-past five o’clock — forty miles from Mount Cook, you remember. Messrs. Borland and Smith, whom I met at Mount Cook, were ti’avelling in a special Buggy, and had come across the Country from Queenstown — by the way of Lake Wanaka — your map will show you. They were going to Fairlie, and advised me to catch the Buggy on its return at this place, and make my way to Dunedin by that route, instead of repeating the Road back to Timaru, and thence to Dunedin. This would enable me to see the Lakes and intervening Country without making a special Tour — both cheaper and a saving of time — though by it I would lose a portion of my return ticket, which I had paid. I thought the suggestion a good'one — inasmuch as there is no public conveyance, and such an opportunity is very rare. I saw the Driver and told him to delay at this point till my arrival, and we might agree, which he consented to do. When I reached here I found him waiting with his Buggy and Hor-ses — all in good condition : and to-morrow we will go together. Thus again do I part from my travelling companions, and am alone. I got my Friend Vine, who goes on direct, to promise to discharge some Bills at the Hotels in Fairlie and at Tekapo, which the Pro- prietors preferred should I’emain unpaid till my return ; also to have my Trunk forwarded from Timaru, where I left it, to Dunedin, and to engage me passage on the Steamer from that City to Hobart, Tas- mania. The Steamers are crowded, and it is important to engage Berths in advance. PUKAKI. 185 Lindis Hotel, near Lmms Pass, N, Z., Tuesday, 3Iarch 4, 1890. This has been a busy and interesting day. At Pukaki this morning, I was up early and out to see after my Driver and his Trap. I found him astir and getting ready. His name is Barry, and a Hunchback. He is strikingly like our old friend Benny Crampton, in face, expi’essiou and manner, though much larger and stouter. Often on our ride to-day I could not help being struck with his likeness to Benny. He is an intelligent, worthy man, and a good Driver. His Buggy is an excellent one, with a broad seat in front, and a smaller one behind, which can be folded into a receptacle for Bag- gage, which we did to-day. His Horses are a fine, well-conditioned pair of travellers, whose metal was tested by our drive. The Coach, going downwards, got off before me, and I bade Good-Bye to Friend Vine, and my other more recent fellow-Tourists from Australia. At Eight o’clock I was off myself with Mr. John Gibb, a Landscape Artist from Christchurch, occupying, the back seat. We were simply helping him a mile or thereabouts to an ele- vation, whence he has been engaged for a day or two in sketching Mount Cook and some of the adjacent Ranges. When we parted he gave me his cairl and a polite invitation to visit his Studio in Christ- church. We crossed the Pukaki on our Pontoon and Cable Bridge, and were soon speeding across the Tussock or Bunch Grass Plains, bounded by bleak, bare mountains, more or less distant, which chai’- acter of country continued with us the entii’e day. The Plains are covered with this coarse grass — sere and yellow and desolate look- ing — which, they tell me, is ever the same, never changing its appearance in any season, but relieved by the numerous beautiful streams racing through it, with abundant, sparkling and limpid water, which, with their stony, gravelly bottoms, would be an entic- ing habitat for the Trout. We were constantly crossing these refresh- ing currents, varying from brooklets to the volume of Rivers. But more refreshing still, on our Journey, were numerous Sheep Stations ; for Sheep and their wool are the only products of this whole Region. These Stations are like Oases. Established near 186 LETTER NO. 12. one of these streams, they are surrounded by trees and luxuriant vegetation, and are comfortable homes, where the owners or their managers live, with their thousands of acres and sheep around them. In the distance, miles away over the seemingly barren plains, they dot them with beauty. One would think that even the Slieep could scarce find a living on these arid Reaches, from the grass which seems too coarse for food : but they do by hundreds of thousands, and the rich growths around the Station Houses would lead one to infer that by irrigation much of this seeming waste could be converted into cultivated fields. After a ride of ten miles we came to the River Ohou — pronounced Ohow — which drains Lake Ohou into the Waitaki River. As the Waikato, you remember, is the chief River of the Northern Island, so is the Waitaki the chief of this, unless it be surpassed by the Clutha. Barry knowing what awaited him at the Ohou, borrowed a stout Rope at one of the Stations, which we used in crossing the River. It is a swift and dangerous current, and having no Ferry or Bridge, is crossed by a Basket swung from an Iron Cable — a most inconvenient affair for travellers. Happily, there were four men engaged in constructing a Bridge over this same River, and Barry went for and brought them to help us — without whose aid it would not have been possible to cross. They helped me first — I getting on the Basket, suspended by iron rods from the Cable, running upon it on grooved wheels, and taking the baggage, rugs and lighter articles with me, I was soon, with the aid of a rope, run safely over. Then drawing it back, and taking off the Basket, they, by the heavy ropes Barry borrowed at the Station, hung the Buggy to the wheels and speedily had it over the River by my side. And then one of the horses tolled by a string, they both swam the rapid stream without demur, and soon we were hitched up again and travelling on. This is the first time in my Tours I have had such an experience — a primitive mode of transportation for ambitious New Zealand, but soon to be superseded by an Iron Bridge. At twenty-five miles — about two o’clock p. m. — we came to OmaiAma — all the syllables pronounced short — a small Hotel, a mile or two from a large and imposing Station. The next Hotel — this where I am writing — is thirty-five miles further, and we considered whether it would be better to stop for the night or come on here. PVKAKI TO LINDIS PASS. 187 By coming on, we would be compelled to make a long day’s drive, and reach here after night; but that would be better than wasting so much time and necessitating even a longer drive for to-morrow. We, therefore, fed our horses and rested them an hour and a half, and then drove on steadily, the horses manifesting no fatigue, reach- ing: here at ten o’clock — distant from Pukaki sixty miles. In portions of the Country, the Mountains let down to the Plains in Mesa formations, that were very striking and interesting. Both Mountain and Mesa, like the Plains, were without any trees, large or small, save that now and then in little gulches in the Mountains a few would appear. Here and there, along the Rivers, numerous Paradise Ducks appeared — a handsome black and white bird, coal black and pure white, and said to be good eating. The Rabbits showed themselves in greater and greater numbers — flashing to and fro across the way — bounding along the road in front of us — dodging behind hillocks and stones, or into their burrows everywhere. Most of them are gray, like ours, with their cotton tails; but many are of other colors — great numbers to-day were black — but like ours in size and shape and motion. My Australian fellow-travellers tell me that in their genial warm Country, they breed eleven months in the twelve, and have from twelve to eighteen at a Litter; and that at three months of age they reach their maturity and are ready to be parents themselves. By mathematical progres- sion, their increase is a horror to any Country. Here, I am told, a much less genial Country than Australia, they have laid waste great Sheep Ranges or Runs and starved them out. All sorts of methods have been devised to prevent their spread and increase. Lately, here and in Australia, the Government, at Public Expense, has constructed fences of wire netting, four feet above and six to twelve inches below ground ; but, after immense cost, it is found that the creatures not only burrow under, but actually climb over them. I observed in the sections where they most prevail, great numbers of Hawks ; the im- pression is that these Birds destroy many of them, especially the young, and the killing of these Birds is forbidden. The English introduced the Rabbit for sport; and they have become the most pestiferous of pests — seemingly impossible to exterminate. But, I hear, their skins are becoming valuable: their value will be the most effective preventive of their increase. Doubtless, I will see and hear more of them in Australia. 188 LETTER NO. 12. Before the Sun set we were in the Lindis Pass. The day had been perfection for travelling; the clouds which threatened rain at Pukaki, drifted away, leaving an expanse of deep Blue Sky, only bi’oken by drifting white cumuli Clouds, of which we at our homes are familiar, making the Landscape outlines of Field and Monntain clean-cut as with a diamond. When the Sun went the Moon came, advancing to its full and giving me the benefit of her rays, when the daylight departed This Pass — through which the Lindis River flows — surpassed my expectations in the variety and combination of its mountain forms and forces. Now we would be high above the current of the River ; and now by the side of, or crossing its swift flowing waters, and I was at a loss to conclude whether it was more beautiful in the light of the Sun, or among the lights and shadow's of the Moon. I was forced to give preference to the latter, when, looking up from them, the Southern Cross, in this low Latitude, was climbing towards the Zenith — it and its Pointers blazing through the pure atmosphere with unusual brilliancy : three Stars, I had never observed before, circling its top with an equally splendid Corona — a fit spectacle with which to end a lovely day. When we drove to the humble Inn, the inmates had all gone to bed, and everything w'as dark. Barry soon aroused Mrs. Howard, the Landlady, and she got up and opened for us, and I was, without delajq assigued to a comfortable Room. Pembroke, Mrs. Russell’s Hotel, Lake Wanaka — pronounced, penult A short — N. Z., Wednesday, March 5, 1890. We did not hurry in our start from Lindis Hotel this morning; for the drive to the place which heads this Letter is only thirty miles. Our good Landlady gave us a comfortable Breakfast of Mutton Chops, Bacon, Cheese, and excellent Bread and Tea. She was a highly respectable woman, and sensible withal, and whilst I was eating, we had much talk. She said the Rabbit’s skins sold for twelve shillings and six pence a hundi’ed — three dollars and twelve and a half cents of our money. Her Husband had been a Rabbitter — the name she gave the pursuit — but the Station owners and Mana- gers when they found he was doing well at it, threw impediments in the way or objected to his hunting or trapping them on their premises. LIND IS PASS TO PEMBROKE. 189 and he gave it up. I told her this seemed to be a dog-in-the-manger policy, and was much against their interest, for I understood they resorted to all sorts of expedients, however expensive, to rid them- selves of the pests, complaining that they wasted their Sheep Runs. Yes ! she said, that was true, but they could not bear the idea of any one making money on their preserves ; and thus they treated every Rabbitter who appeared to be successful. A good deal of human Nature in this ! But I rather think self-interest will in the end triumph over this churlishness ; for it seems to be, at last, the best remedy for the disease. She told me her Husband was placer-mining for Gold a few miles off, and was only able to come home on Saturday and spend Sunday there. She said he had not been a lucky digger. He had tried it in Australia, but without success, nor had he been successful here. I told her such was the story of the vast majority who engaged in that pursuit, in every Country and every age. Of the many seekers, few found. Yes ! she said, such was her Husband’s fate, and he said he was going to stop — but he was ever impelled to go on, stimu- lated now and then by hearing of some one who had fallen suddenly upon a Find, and he hoped the same good fortune would come to him. We started at nine o’clock, another lovely day, and our fine Horses, refreshed by the rest, ready for travel. After driving a few miles, ascending a mountain, I observed two men at work in the ditches in the bed of the River, several hundred yards below. My Driver said one of them was Howard, and I determined to stop and pay him a visit. I had some difficulty in getting down the steep descent; but succeeding, found him and a younger comrade, both good-look- ing, stalwart men, in their gum-boots, wading and digging in the water, examining every handful of earth with the eagerness of misers. They had done an immensity of work in damming the River, and building cribs in which they could work, having abundance of water for their sifting, without the River’s current. I inquired for Howard, and the older one responded. I told him I stayed at his house last night, and his wife informed me that he was looking for Gold. He came out of the diggings at once and gave me a cordial greeting, and I had a talk with him and his comrade, who was busy testing with a pewter basin the value of their work. They both told me they had not met with much success, but lived in hope. Cer- J90 LETTER NO. 12. tainly they did not come across a grain whilst I was there. On leaving, Howard accompanied me to the mountain, where I left my Buggy — and on the way took me to his tent near the River bank, which he had fixed up with a stone chimney, and nicely arranged with cot and other camp doings, reminding me of my own, when on our rapid, busy Campaigns, I had time to adjust a resting place. His comrade had one, also, near-by, and each had a small luxuriant- looking Vegetable Garden, which he said was Chinese. I inferred he meant like the Chinese ; but he said they were made by China- men, and recently he and his associate had bought them from two of that peculiar people, who had gone to another point not far olf. I fear John knew the value both of those he sold, and of that he bought. I bade Howard Good-Bye ! with many wishes, that he miglit have abundant luck and get rich. My Driver says he has a family of eight Daughters, whom he is trying to educate — and he and his wife are certainly highly respectable and worthy people. His will be, I fear, the fate of many who seek for Gold — and has been, Barry says, of great numbers lately in New Zealand, where the Gold Fever has freshly broken out. The Country for some miles was, in character, like that of which I have spoken. After a while tlie contour changed : the Mountains became more rounded in shape, and the Valleys rose into Downs, and assumed the form of Terraces or Mesas — exceedingly picturesque. The Stations and Sheep Runs gave way in areas to cultivated lands — called here Farms, as with us, and showing from the soil and its products that ray inference was correct — when subjected to the plough. These were cultivated under the natural rainfall, and I learn with heavy yields of wheat, and oats, and vegetables. Afar off, were the snowy Ranges of the Southern Alps, to which farther North, Alount Cook belongs. We crossed at Albert Town or Newcastle, on a Punt, like that at Pukaki, a fast-fiowing River, the beginning of the Clutha, drawing Lakes Wanaka and Hawea to the Eastward, and in three miles were at this Hotel, seated at the foot of and in view of the former, with its Rim of Mountains. It was three o’clock in the afternoon when we arrived. It occurs to me I ought to mention an interesting fact, of which I was not aware before, that at Mount Cook and other places, in going and coming thence, I saw many Gulls — which come up from the PEMBROKE— LAKE WANAKA. 191 Ocean to hatch their young, and when grown to the full use of their wings, seek the Sea, East or West, to bathe and perform untiringly their evolutions over all the World, as we have seen them, many a time and everywhere. It was pleasant in the Evening, when the Sun went down and the Moon rose, now nearly full, to enjoy from the Hotel Portico the Lake, enclosed in its Mountain circuit. Same Place, Thursday, March 6, 1890. Barry and his buggy and I parted this morning, he going on to Queenstown, I stopping here for a day or two. He drives, in his regular work, the Coach between that place and this, and will return with it to-morrow and take me to Queenstown on Saturday. To-day I spent in going out on Lake Wanaka in a small Steam- boat, owned and commanded by Captain Hedditch, a pleasant, genial fellow. Thei’e were only a few of us Tourists along — Rev. Mr. Hampton, his wife and three children, and Dr. Waitland Gledden, from London. Mr. Hampton is of the Established Church and is stationed at Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu, forty-seven miles away, and is out now on a furlough, rusticating. The Doctor is simply Touring it — a young man recently graduated, and looking, while he travels, for a home to settle — a pleasant party they proved to be. We left at nine o’clock, and returned at five in the afternoon. The Captain pointed out the places of interest — the inlets, the projections, the Islands, the Mountains, near and distant, and their names : I will not bother you with them. The Lake fis nine hundred and twenty-eight feet above the level of the Sea, of bright, pure water — ten hundred and eighty-five feet in depth ; you see, below the Ocean’s surface, and evironed by Mountains — a perfect Mountain Lake. The Mountains are bleak and bare, without vegetation of any sort, except plats of scrubby growth in gulches here and there — but not a burly tree visible anywhere — only savage rock, seamed and scarred by Glaciers in cycles gone, save the distant loftier ones beyond the im- mediate Range, patched with snow. The outline of the Lake made by the Islands and the projecting and receding Mountains, is very irregular and picturesque ; and the Boat in moving would lose the 192 LETTER NO. 12. pathway of her course, and open up constantly new vistas — making the scenes most pleasurable. The Captain stopped at Manuka, or Weka, or Pigeon Island — for it bears all three names — that we might go ashore, and ascend its elevations, it being, in effect, a Mountain planted in the Lake. An easy ascending path has been made, which, after a climb of several hundred feet, brought us to a Tarn or Lakelet, of circular form, reposing in its clean waters with a border of rocks and thicket. We sat on its banks and enjoyed the scene for some time, and whilst there several New Zealand Robins, much smaller than ours, with whitish breasts, came, and flew, and hopped familiarly at our feet, and the Moka or Bell-Bird sat in a bush near by, and filled the air with his melodious notes. We then ascended to the top — a peak overhanging the Tarn — and from it could not only look down upon its waters, but over the larger Lake, lying below in its many reaches, shining like a mirror beneath the Sun. We were fully repaid for our climb. When we returned to the Boat, the Captain steamed her to the mainland to take on some Lumber, which had been floated on one of the Lake’s affluents from inland mountain gulches ; rather spind- ling Lumber it seemed to be. Whilst he was thus engaged, Mr. Hampton and his family went ashore and wandered about with the children, lunching under such shade as they could find, for the Sun was hot. The Doctor and I chose the better part, of taking ours, brought with us from the Hotel, in the Cabin, with a cup of hot Tea made for us by the Captain. Whilst here, he brought an old man to see me — a native of the United States, who has been in New Zealand for nearly forty years — a Ship Builder by trade — built the Steam- boat on which we navigated the Lake. He introduced him as Asher Smith. The old man was delighted to see me ; and we had a long talk. He was one of the Forty-niners to California ; came a-Gold hunting to Victoria, Australia, in Fifty-one — in both ventures was successful ; came to New Zealand, but in the long time he has lived here has added nothing to his fortune. He says he will hardly ever again return to his home in Brooklyn. His friends are all gone, and he would be a stranger there now. But I have not time to detail the conversation, much of it very interesting. On our jaunt we talked upon a variety of topics appertaining to New Zealand and its future. Among them again came up the Rabbit Question — the most important of those affecting the Economies of PEMBROKE— LAKE HAWEA. 193 Australasia — in which our Captain joined. The Rabbitters were sug- gested, and their value, and the curious, churlish qualities developed by their success in the heart of the Sheep owners, deeply interested, though they must be, in the matter. It was answered, that as curi- ous and objectionable phases of human nature were developed in the Rabbitter, which probably had much to do with arousing those in the Squatter’s breast. It was known, that when the Rabbitter found a nest, he captured the old ones for their skins, and let the young ones go, regardless of the Squatter’s interest, that they may grow up and furnish material for the next season’s profit — he will not be guilty of the folly of thus using up the seed-corn of his future labor. Just as they said, it was well known it was done by these same or similar people when employed to dig up the Scotch Thistle : they were caught, apparently, honestly working, secretly sowing the seed for a future Harvest. How many complexions does the Rabbit Question assume? One would have hardly thought it had produced such a number of moral and philosophical issues — hexagonal : much like Pisistratus Caxton’s Geometrical definition of Truth. On our return, the wind arose, and whilst it cooled the air, brought up thin clouds and spread them over the Sky. Such doings with us, in mixing up the elements, would betoken change of weather. I should think it ought here, too — a little Island girdled with world- circling waters. The knowing ones say not — only betokens wind. We will see. Certainly, the wind came, and at bed-time was blow- ing quite a gale. Same Place, Friday, March 7 , 1890 . To-day I hired from the Landlady a Buggy and pair of good Horses, and with a Driver went to visit Lake Hawea — ten miles off. The Rain did not come, only the clouds were out, and enabled me the more comfortably to ride in the open Vehicle. We retraced my Road to Albert Town or Newcastle; there again crossed, on the Punt, the Clutha River, chiefly made here, at its beginning, of the out-flow of the two Lakes Wanaka and Hawea; the latter coming in a short distance above the Ferry, and resulting in the fine, fast- flowing River, of which I spoke when I crossed it the other day. We continued over a good Road, up the Hawea River, though some distance from it ; the Mountains encircling the Lake before us, and with their bulk completely hiding it from view. Between them 13 194 LETTER NO. IZ. and me the Country was Plain and Terrace or Mesa, and along the base of the Mountains was converted into Farms, by which we rode on our return, going across the Plains. These Farms extend for five or six miles, and ai’e conspicuous by the trees — principally Lom- bardy Poplar, Willows and Pine, and a few Eucalypti or Australian Gum Trees ; these are the prevailing Exotics and ornamental trees, and are about this Hotel and the other Houses, which make up the settlements of Pembroke. These farms are well cultivated, and evidently good soil. I under- stand, yielding from thirty to fifty Bushels of wheat per acre. They are now ploughing for the fall crop — will put in the seed next month — you know March is the first Autumn month ; the seasons here being just the reverse of ours. The Ploughs had three sheares and run with wheels — three horses walking with perfect ease, turn- ing up the dark mould-colored, pulverulent soil. Much of the last year’s crop was in well-built stacks of rich golden straw, and the Horses, Cattle and Sheep, were of good quality and fat ; the last, as I observed them over the whole Island, pure Merinos — they tell me, the best for this Country. Evidently these are good lands and well farmed ; the chief trouble is want of a Market for their products, when grown; the fields are divided by well-built wire fencing, for there is no timber hereabouts. My Driver tells me these farms average from one hundred and fifty to three hundred acres. Nearing the Lake I descended from the Buggy and climbed to the top of the Terrace, whence I had a clear view of it and its Moun- tain Rim : a fine sheet of water, but inferior to its neighbor, Wanaka, in picturesque variety of outline — though one of its Mountain Ranges is superior to any on the border of that Lake, being snow-clad and coming down to the water with precipitous sides. I walked across the elevated Terrace, and then down to the outlet in the Hawea River, running rapidly with clear bright green current. There my Buggy met me. The only living thing about were some small Lizards glancing rapidly through the pebbles and Rocks upon the shore — and these are the only “ varments,” of any sort, I have seen in New Zealand. You know there are no Snakes or Reptiles here. Nature has for- bidden, in these blessed Islands, what St. Patrick is honored for having driven from the bounds of Erin. I can testify to the Fish, which inhabit their waters, having seen a trout taken from Wanaka PEMBROKE TO QUEENSTOWN. 195 of twenty-one pounds, which has helped us to enjoy several meals at this Hotel. We returned without mishap or incident. My Friend, Mr. Hampton and his family left this afternoon, and two Englishmen, a New Zealand Bank Manager and Bank Inspector, arrived by a private Buggy, and later on, about six o’clock, my Driver Barry with three or four in his stage — all Britishers — with whom I had some talk — not worth putting down. The wind was abroad again this Evening. What will it bring? I hope not rain till at least I get to Queenstown, whither I go to-morrow. Queenstown, New Zealand, On Lake Wakatipu, Eichaedt’s Hotel, Saturday, 31arch 8, 1890. At nine this morning I bade farewell to Lake Wanaka, and by six in the afternoon was safely landed at the Hotel and Town which heads this day’s story. I came in the regular Coach — an uncovered four-seated Carriage, thus called here — Barry driving. My companions were Dr. Gledden and a Britisher — the Bank Inspector, of whom I have spoken, his comrade going back from Wanaka, whence they came : I think Crom- well. The Doctor and I occupied the Box with the Driver : the Britisher occupied one of the seats behind. He was a typical fellow, from London, born within sound of Bow Bells, very provincial and ignorant, and I was not dissatisfied to have him behind me on a lower seat. The k Doctor, and Barry and I had the seat and talk to ourselves. Travelling Southwestward, we soon struck the Cardroua River, which flows into the Clutha at Newcastle, or Albert Town. I ought to mention that the latter is the Village located on the West bank of the Clutha : Newcastle really has no existence ; a town has been laid out on the opposite bank, and thus called, but not a house built or a foundation dug, simply Nominis Umbra, the shadow of a name upon the Map : thus it is, too, with Gladstone, at the foot of Hawea, which appears so big on the Map I sent you — not the sign of a town there, only the Terrace of Tussock, over which I walked to view the Lake yesterday. 196 LETTER NO. 12. We travelled sixteen miles along the River to Cardrona, a small collection of Houses, including Hotel and Stores. The River-bed is large — now only a waste of shingle — small stones and boulders — through which the muddy thread of itself now flows. The dry weather and the Gold diggers having consumed and polluted its naturally abundant and bright waters. The whole bed and adjacent Country are placers, whence much Gold has been dug, and where many are digging now. I told you how such a Country looked on my First Tour through California and Colorado — how every hand- ful of earth and stone seems to have been sifted and the Mountains honeycombed. Here and thei’e are Tent-Huts, where the seekers pass their nights, dreaming of Finds never found ; among them, not a few of the inevitable John Chinamen, who seem to have fixed themselves more comfortably and permanently than the whites, look- ing as if they had come to stay, and test fickle Fortune to the full. There is nothing attractive about Gold Diggings, either in their appearance or their story. We stopped at Cardrona for a shoi’t time to change horses; whilst doing it, I took a glass of milk and some bread and butter, and then drove on with three horses instead of two, having to surmount the Crown Range, an elevation of several thousand feet, whence we had a superb view of the Mountains and the Valleys in their nooks far below us, — Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu in the distance, showing dimly. We descended to Arrowtown, on the Arrow River, by a long, admirably constructed, winding Road : below us the Valleys opening with wide-spread, well-cultivated Farms, abounding in crops of wheat and oats — some secured in well-built stacks, some in Stukes, as they call them, simple piles of sheaves — for they never shock as we do — some standing in the field quite ready to be cut — some falling before the Binders, doing good and easy work over the level fields : — beautiful farm lands — beautifully farmed. From the elevation. Lake Hayes, a good sized mountain Pool, almost at our feet, opened on us, to add to the beauty of the scene, and Arrowtown, like a plat laid out in squares with shrubbery and trees — distant from Cardrona eighteen miles. Here we stopped at three o’clock, and lunched, and again changed horses : after which we came thirteen miles to Queenstown, and at six o’clock were landed at this Hotel, overlooking the waters of Wakatipu, one of New Zealand’s most celebrated and most frequented QUEENSTOWN. 197 Lakes. On the way, we saw the Gold Diggers at work again, and this time not alone with pick and spade and hand, but with a Steam Dredge, owned by See Hoy, a Cdestial, — now one of the wealthiest men in the Islands — whose fascinations of person or gold charmed a red-headed Highland Lassie, and united in the Bonds of Matrimony the Land o’ Cakes and of Celestial Pigtails. May much bliss be theirs ! Evidently a good House is this. I got a comfortable Room — soon thereafter I got a comfortable Dinner ; with quite a Hotel full of guests. I found a Letter from Friend Vine, stating that he had been succesful in all my commissions and how glad he was to attend to them. Very kind and courteous in him. And then I walked out upon the Shore, and looked at the little Steamer, well-built and neat, with which I hope to navigate the Lakes, and enjoyed the Mountain scenery, rounding its waters ; and thence went to a Shoemaker’s, by this time lamp-lighted, and got him to stitch one of my shoes, and whilst sitting on his bench a-talking to him, which shoemakers love to do, my overcoat tail fell into a pail of water by my side, where it must have rested some time, I oblivious ; when going, I observed it and expressed concern, but he declared it was clean water and would not soil my coat, and ran and brought a towel and wiped it for me: but, the not soiling of it, I didn’t believe — a bucket of water by a shoemaker’s bench must be dirty, and I told him so — at which he laughed — and then I went next door to a Barber’s — a big, burly chap, fitter for a Sailor or a Soldier — who in a jiffy cut my hair in a style which I wish ray home Barber could handle ; and then I came back to my Room, where I am telling you these things, and now, like a sensible traveller, am going forthwith to bed. Same Place and Hotel, Sunday, March 9, 1890. Wakatipu is pronounced Wakatip — the final u dropped — the only Mahori word I have heard where a vowel or a syllable is dropped or silent. I do not know how this came about. I forgot to tell you, that yesterday we passed a Coal Mine recently opened — Barry said of excellent quality and quantity. Hew Zealand has no lack of this invaluable commodity ; I think I alluded to it when with Mr. Malfroy, — how he won the Gold medal for it at the J98 LETTER NO. IS. Paris Exposition, by showing that it saved the Ship which fled before the Samoan Cyclone. This Coal comes from Greymouth and West- port, and there are other deposits of it. I saw near this place, also, fine Hedges of Hawthorn — growing luxuriantly without blight — you remember, on the East Coast it did not flourish. I remained quietly in-doors : made no jaunts — there is one to Ben Lomond, a lofty climb of several miles : but I have from various points seen most that mountain’s top can show — and the Sun was very hot all day — though the Sky was beautifully clear for obser- vation. In the afternoon, in the cool, I walked over and upon the heights around Queenstown and saw how the town lay. It is a place of six or eight hundred people, seated snugly on a flat at the head of a recess or inlet of the Lake and dominated by hills and mountains all around, save its front, which looks out upon the water. It does not appear to be flourishing. The Tourist and Gold Fever both over-boomed it, and receding, left it flat. Houses were built which were not needed, and are now closed, awaiting another boom, which, alas ! may not come till this generation have been gathered to their fathers. This Hotel, standing right upon the Lake — a road only intervening — and a few other structures are the only conspicuous buildings in the town. But I was glad there was no more to see. I rested, and dismissing New Zealand’s things, and places, and thoughts, I paid a visit to you all upon the wings of Memory and Imagination. The day was mostly spent with you — convening you around me or putting myself in your midst, and I thought, how impossible for you to conceive where I was, or what a-doing — I on a Lake and in a town you never so much as heard of before, in the land of the Antipodes. I don’t know what I should do without these Letters, in which I hold sweet converse with you, and keep you by my side, every day, even in circling the Globe. Whatever manual labor they entail upon me, I am fully compensated for, not only in that converse, but in the pleasure, I trust, you derive, in being thus my fellow-traveller. I send you greetings. I would the time had come when, as predicted, we can waft our thoughts from “ Indus to the Pole,” and without even the intervention of a wire or a pen. QUEENSTOWN. 199 Kingston, at foot of Lake Wakatipu, ^ Spear’s Hotel, Monday, March 10, 1890. To-day has been spent in navigating Lake Wakatipu. Barry came to see me before I left Queenstown this morning, to bid me Good Bye ! and wish me all happy and prosperous things. I heard him say on the Route, that he owed his subscription to the Racing Club, and he did not want to meet the President till he had money enough to pay it. He is an enthusiast about Horses and Racing, though he was thrown in riding one, and hence resulted his deformity. I gave him, in recognition of his attention to me, money enough to pay his dues — which I am sure he duly appreci- ated — and thereby left in his memory kind recollections. Yesterday, a gentleman introduced himself to me at table, and said he was from Brisbane, Australia — a Scotchman by birth, from Edin- burgh, who came to Australia fifteen years ago and has thriven — a Bookseller and Stationer. He gave me his card — Sinclair Rowney — • and said I must be sure to make myself known to him, when I came there on my travels, that he might be of service in showing me the objects of interest to the stranger. He introduced me to his Sister, Mrs. Ritchie, who lives at Port Chalmers, not far from Dunedin, and she extended the same invitation to visit her in her home there. Both were with me on the Lake to-day. Dr. Gledden, also, was along from Queenstown to the head of the Lake and back, and told me there were two young Americans aboard, and pointed them out. Passing near, I called them and introduced myself — to which they pleasingly responded by a counter introduction — one. Parsons, from the City of New York, and the other Freeman, from Annapolis, — the latter told me he is a Cousin of Blake’s wife, late, you know, the Agent on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad — now on the Cumberland Valley. Taylor must see Blake. I was gratified to tell him I knew Blake well and favorably. Strange are the meetings in this now diminutive Whispering Gallery of a World! Freeman has been an extensive traveller in foreign Countries — on business for Firms in New York — and is a gentlemanly, sensible fellow. Both he and Parsons seemed glad to meet me, and during the day showed me every civility and courtesy ; and we had much talk. 200 LETTER NO. 12. Before we left Queenstown, I got the Hotel Proprietor to telegraph to Kingston for a Room to-night, and to the Grand Hotel, Dunedin, for one to-morrow night. There is to be a contest of the Brass Bands of the Colony at the Exhibition — one from Queenstown is going down, and the crowd tending that way will be almost unmanageable. He, also, introduced me to a gentleman who said he would see the Proprietor of the larger Hotel — Spear’s — and secure me a Room for to-night : which promise he fulfilled. The little Steamer — Mountaineer — moved out from Queenstown at eight o’clock, for the Head of the Lake — distant thirty-five miles — a handsome, comfortable affair, on which we had a good Lunch at mid-day. Another clear, fine day enabled us to see the Lake and its surroundings most favorably. The Map I sent you will show the formation of this beautiful sheet of water — about fifty miles in length, varying in width from two to three miles, shaped not unlike an S. Its surface is one thousand and seventy feet above the Sea ; its depth from eleven hundred and seventy to twelve hundred and forty — the whole bottom being nearly level from shore to shore — a huge trough. Its waters are clear Blue, and big Mountains rim it round — some of them naked rock from top to bottom, seared and marked by water and ice in the ages — some here and there on their flanks or in their Gorges adorned by clumps of trees, and at the head, behind Kinloch and Glenoi’chy, a group of Mountain Peaks, some of them clad with Glaciers and Snow, over which Mount Earnslaw, nine thousand one hundred and sixty-five feet in height, towers with its peak of white — a splendid spectacle. We stopped a while at both Kinloch and Glenorchy, where there are Hotels — and scarce any other houses — and whence the mountain climber can find much wherewith to entei’tain and exercise himself. I have ever been of the opinion, and maybe have expressed it some- where in these Letters, that a Mountain looks better from below than from above — and all, without the trouble of getting up. We reached Queenstown at mid-day on our return. Here my English Doctor left me ; my other friends continued- on the Boat. We delayed long enough at the wharf to take on board the Queens- town Band, going to Dunedin to win or lose the prize — the latter most unquestionably if the sample of Music they gave us be evidence of their excellence. A crowd of their friends came down to wave them otf, and many accompanied them, till at last there was scarce standing KINGSTON. 201 room on the little Vessel. The Mountain Scenery was good along the Southern arm of the Lake : but not equal to the North. The Remarkables or Hector Range bounding it on the East is a jagged, fierce, and lofty Guard, and adds greatly to the scene. The other Mountains let down, steaming Southward. The wind rose whilst we advanced — approaching Kingston, increased to quite a gale. Two small Hotels alone welcomed us, constituting in effect the town, quite manifestly ; not nearly large enough to accommodate the crowd. The Landing was some distance off and the walk considerable. My young American Friends helped me with my Satchel. My Aus- tralian Friend and his Sister hnrried on, in advance of the crowd, and when I reached the Hotel he had secured a Room for his Sister and one for himself, with two Beds, which he said he had equally intended for me. This was very considerate and kind. When will the kindness shown me on my travels cease, or how can it be esti- mated ? — coming, too, from total strangers. Many had to lie upon the floors — some slept in the cars, with no covering but their over- coats ; I had a nice Room and Bed and a comfortable night’s rest. Doubtless, the Proprietor would have saved me a Bed, but that does not diminish my obligation to my new-made Friend. At the Dinner table, I had more talk with a gentleman near me concerning the Rabbits. Of course, you want to know all I hear about the interesting, mnch-abused Cotton-Tail, dead or alive. He said that several Rabbit-Canning Establishments had been started recently, and with great success, the meat finding favor in London and Paris — especially the latter toothsome City — thus affording the Rabbitter a market not only for the skins, but, also, for the carcass, which hitherto, beyond his own consumption, had been thrown away and lost. This adds still further to the probable solution of the vexed question : which we are trying to settle for the long-suffering Australasian, Dunedin, New Zealand, Grand Hotel, Tuesday, March 11, 1890. I had a sound night’s rest in Kingston — the Bed was good and my long day on the Lake made me I’eady for it, and when the morn- ing came, I was ready for an equally long day upon the Rail to this City of Dunedin. The distance is one hundred and seventy miles ; 202 LETTER NO. n. the Road narrow gauge, like all others in New Zealand, with cars both First and Second class. In England, you remember, I nearly always rode Second class, because they were not only cheaper than the First, but better cars for observation. I could not do thus here. The Second class have no comforts or conveniences to invite their nse, and I have, therefore, always in New Zealand ridden First. The Roads, probably I have mentioned, are mostly owned and run by the Government ; and of their management, I have found nothing to complain. We left Kingston at half-past seven, and reached here at seven in the Evening; starting with a long, full train, increasing at the various towns and stations as we proceeded, till on our arrival here, we had two Locomotives and about thirty well-filled cars. Several additional Bands got on, to try their fortunes for the prize. I received the benefit of the Excursion, in my cheapened ticket — the regular fare being thirty-three shillings — I obtaining ticket and return for eigh- teen ; the return of course I can throw or give away, or sell. My Friend Rowney secured me, in the crowd, a good seat. Changing at Gore — nearly half way — my young American Friends secured me a seat and invited me to join them — which I did — thus dividing my company — for the crowd and rush were too great to obtain seats for all together. When we arrived here, Mr. Rowney and his Sister, who went on to her home at Port Chalmers, nine miles down, gave me a pressing invitation to come and see them, and send them a line what day I would be there ; and then we parted — hospitable, canny, good Scotch people they evidently are. Maybe he and I may meet again iu Brisbane. Freeman and Parsons and I walked to this Hotel. The Proprietor had received the Telegram, and a nice front Room was ready for me, outlooking upon one of the principal streets and squares, where I am now putting down these lines for your entertainment. My Trunk and Chair, by the kindness of Mr. Vine, also had been sent and were here. The Country and scene during my ride to-day were different from those I have written you of on my journey from Mount Cook. The Pastoral changed to the Agricultural. Along the route, fields of Wheat and Oats took the place of Tussock — and fine fields they were, the like of which I would be delighted to see upon my Farm. It is nearly all of it still out : in Stukes, or standing uncut — a small pro- portion stacked. Whilst it looks admirable to me, there is complaint. DUNEDIN. 203 that the excessive drought that has prevailed has cut it short. But the sheaves, when cut, are very numerous, and the grain, when stand- ing, thick, and the straw clean and golden. It is evidently a fine Wheat and Oats Country. The Mountains open out and the Country expands into terraces and plains — that between Lumsden and Gore a vast expanse, called the Waimea Plains — over which elegant crops appeared, and excellent Horses, Cattle, and Sheep roamed. The Homes, too, and Barns were better, showing a more settled and well-to-do condition of affairs, and around them, much vegetation and adornment. Between Kingston and Lumsden great complaint has existed with regard to the Rabbits. But being in the morning, I did not see many : for the Ladies and Gentlemen of that now famous Race take their promenades in the cool of the day. Approaching Dunedin, things get better still : we cross the Clutha River, and Balclutha is a beautiful and flourishing site ; and in a few miles we pass Mossgiel, a celebrated Woolen Factory; and soon the suburbs of Dunedin are around us, and then the City, located upon Hill and Vale. Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, March 12, 1890. Going from my Room to Breakfast, I was hailed ; turning around I met Sir Thomas Mackelwraith, who gave me a cordial greeting. He and his family arrived a few days ago from Mount Cook, will be here some time, and will probably go to Hobart, Tasmania, in the same Steamer with myself. I went to the Office of the Union S. S. Company and found that my young Friend Vine had done all he promised, aud my Berth w’as secured on the Steamer for the twentieth of this month. Here is another long delay for want of connections : you will recall how much time I have already lost from that cause — deferring your hojie of my speedy return. This cannot be avoided. The Steamers are weekly to Melbourne, only those of the alternate weeks calling at Hobart. If I should go direct to Melbourne, it would necessitate a return in effect to Tasmania — thus losing both time and money in addition to the expenditure of a good deal of labor. This, however, you remem- ber, I told you accompanied these long Tours — I lost much time in South America in this way ; I expected it here, and have not been 204 LETTER NO. IS. disappointed. Let us console ourselves, that it is the last world- around Tour I shall ever make, and maybe is now for the best — compelling me to rest, amid what must seem to you great fatigues of mind and body, in the character and kind of travel I have been undergoing in New Zealand, and in the midst of them keeping their Record — which I sincerely hope may be some compensation for my absence. But when travelling, I cannot bear to waste, or seem to waste, time. What I shall do in Dunedin for a week I cannot tell. But nobody can consume time with himself better than I. Of course my first point of observation was the Exposition — which has put agog these Islands and brought hither the crowds of. which I have often spoken and filled them as they have probably never been filled before. Happily the throng came and went in Dunedin before I arrived. In other parts of both Islands, they were frequently incon- venient to me in my progress, crowding conveyances and Hotels, yet at the same time bringing civilities, which relieved me greatly ; but now in this City no inconvenience occurs. The foreigner has come and seen and gone ; the rustic has returned, too, to his home, with news enough to entertain for many a day those left behind. The City claims thirty-five thousand inhabitants — and for such a population, the Exhibit is most creditable — especially considering the vast distances most of the articles had to be brought. The collection is mainly Colonial — these Islands and Australia ; and especially interesting to the stranger visiting these Countries to see their curi- osities and resources. I cannot stop to give you anything like a detail of the contents of the extensive Buildings : very, very meagre in comparison with what you saw in Philadelphia in 1876, yet most creditable to a Colony celebrating its Eiftieth Anniversary — both in natural and manufactured products. Australia has some striking exhibits — that, showing the amount of Gold and Silver which have been taken from her soil — and models representing the nuggets of the former — are simply astounding ; one of these nuggets was worth ten thousand pounds, or fifty thousand dollars. But you must excuse me from any detail. It would be simply a weary Catalogue. I spent some hours at the Building in the Morning, and was sufficiently interested to go back again in the afternoon, and spend a few more. On the latter occasion, I was entertained in the Concert Hall of the Exposition by an Orchestra, mainly of string instruments. DUNEDIN. 205 which, according to my views and taste, did their part admirably well. They didn’t make half as much noise or to-do as Thomas’ did, you remember, in Chicago, on my First Tour ; for they did surely make a thundering noise, and Thomas, I thought, would have torn himself to pieces. That was Scientific, and high Art, and everybody was earried away : this was more quiet and unpretentious, and whilst the Leader didn’t go into fits or seem to have the jim-jams, he deported himself with great propriety, and his Orchestra followed his gesticu- lations with sweet music — which, if it did not turn the heads of his audience, seemed really to touch their hearts. And isn’t that the design of Music ? — especially when we know, that he who makes the simple Ballads of a people, is better than he who makes their Laws : the latter guiding their actions, maybe; the other directing them to heroic aims. That which survives the longest of the grandest Opera are not the science and wonderful art displayed in its constructions, but the simple airs creeping out in its progress, that enter into the hearts of the people, and the little boys and girls, for many a day thereafter, hum along the streets. Same City and Hotel, Thursday, March 13, 1890. At Breakfast, I met Sir Thomas and Lady Mackelwraith, and had some pleasant talk : but nothing worth detailing. Winding up my watch, I heard a whir, and knew the spring had gone. In coming from Kingston, I met a young man by the name of Hyams, travelling with Freeman and Parsons, who, they told me, was a Jeweler and Watchmaker here. I found out his store and trusted the watch to him for repair, telling him of its value. He promised to put it in safe hands. I, also, bought from him a Silver Cake-knife for the Set. I walked on out Princes Streeet, where Hyams’ store is, and George Street, its continuation, to the suburbs, which rises into a hill, where are villas and nice residences — a distance of a mile and a half or two miles. This is the chief thoroughfare of the City, and on it are the best shops and stores. It runs lengthwise through the heart of the town, parallel to the Inlet of the Sea on which Dunedin stands, nine or ten miles inland. The Railroad Station and the Docks and two or three streets intervene between Princes Street and 206 LETTER NO. 12. the Inlet ; whilst, on the other hand, and not far off, are the Hills, which, like a circle, run around the site. The Streets already named follow the contour of the ground, comparatively level, and are well macadamized, the sidewalks paved with Asphalt. On Princes Street, right opposite to this Hotel, on which my window looks, is a hand- some stone building with a clock tower — the Offices of the Colonial Bank of New Zealand — and farther out the Town Hall, a somewhat similar structure. The Shops and Stores are mainly built of stone, and present a substantial, healthy look. By the time I returned, the hour of Lunch had arrived. I intended to have strolled out again in the afternoon ; but the threatened rain came — a real blessing to the Country. Last night it showered slightly. The almost unprecedented drought — favorable, you have seen, to the Tourists — has excited apprehension, in the Country for their grass, and in the City for its water supply. The Dunedin Papers this morning stated that there was only sufficient for twelve days’ use, and urging carefulness upon tlie citizens. But this afternoon and night it rained quite steadily, and I hope will insure relief. Whilst thus suffering in New Zealand for water, the Cablegrams tell us portions of Australia are flooded, accompanied by great loss of property and life. This, doubtless, you have seen through the same medium in our own Papers. I did not go out during the afternoon and evening. Same City and Hotel, Friday, March 14, 1890. The Clouds emptied themselves last night. To-day has been beautiful, with bright Sky and fresh atmosphere. I walked along the Shore and among the business houses there — well-built structures of brick and stone. I talked with the people, and heard great complaints of want of business and the dulness and stagnation of the times: and the quiet which pi’evails confirms their story. Strolling on along Great King Street, parallel to Princes and George, the one I pedestrianized yesterday, and nearer to the water, I came at the farther end and towards the suburbs to the Hospital, a fine stone building occupying large and improved Grounds; the Museum, which I found at the hour closed — I must go again ; and near by it, DUNEDIN. 207 the City Public Schools, a large brick edifice. It was the time of Recess, and the children — Boys and Gii’ls — were just turned out — the coming Race to fill and fructify the late Mahori land. They were a lively, healthy set — though some seemed hardly big enough to take from their Mother’s apron strings ; and they made the air jubilant about their Gymnastic bars and swings and merry-go-rounds. Walking on, I visited the University, a square or two away, one or two large stone and brick edifices, solid and ornate. The Buildings were in good repair ; the upright board fence enclosing the Grounds has lost many of its planks, and looks dilapidated. An old Scotch- man passing, I asked him, how that happened? He laughingly replied : “ Bad Boys. Fix it up noo, and to-night they’l have it doon agin.” I told him I feared they were something like our own young Americans. “Ai ! Ai!” he said, “from what I have heered.” When I returned by the School, the children had finished their Reeess, and their Teachers, male and female, were mustering them into squads. Boys and Girls, according to their sex and size, and marching them in again — a pretty sight, a clean and well-clad lot. Among the Boys there was flesh and bone enough to make strong and burly men ; among the girls, more of complexion than of beauty — I will not add — like their kindred beyond the Sea, lest my friends from over there should say I am not complimentary nor a friend — “from the remark I make.” I went to the Exhibition in the afternoon to while away an hour or two, and was in the Concert Room, listening to the Orchestra again, in the midst of a crowd, when my Scotch Friend Rowuey spied me across the Hall, and came forthwith to greet me. He pi’o- posed we should go out a few miles to see the Nicholl’s Creek Falls. We took the Horse Tram down Princes Street to near its terminus and then expected to have found a Coach ; but their being none, we walked, Rowney thinking it only a mile or thereabouts. It turned out two or three, — much longer and farther than I would have walked for a better Falls. We met the Stages coming back and we engaged one to return for us ; if we had not, we, owing to the late hour, would have been compelled to walk the whole way back — altogether “ too much for our whistle.” You know, I think, by this time, all walks in the Country to the Traveller on an extensive Tour are a great waste of time, and energy, and labor; the Country can be better seen from the seat of a comfortable Carriage : save the feet and force to 208 LETTER NO. 12. walk the Cities, which cannot be seen on wheels. But we went and saw. The Falls a pretty thing — no more; hid away up a prettier Vale, thick-clad in foliage — the trees arching overhead. But better still were the suburbs of Dunedin and the adjacent Country along the “ Waters of Leith,” the fine stream into which Nicholas Creek Falls flows, that well repaid us for the jaunt, with their natural beauties of Hill and Valley, showing everywhere good Scotch enterprise and thrift. The Driver fulfilled his promise, and met us, and we utilized his Coach back to the Hotel, Friend Rowney refusing to allow me to pay for the Excursion, regarding it as his treat. He will probably go to Hobart on the same Steamer with me ; and still insists upon my paying him and his Sister a visit at her home in Port Chalmers, nine miles above the Inlet towards the Sea. This I can hardly do. At Dinner to-day. Sir Thomas Mackelwraith brought Sir Maurice O’Rourke, Speaker of the New Zealand Parliament, and introduced him to me ; and invited me to take my meals with him and Lady Mackelwraith at their Table, whilst we were together at the Hotel. And my young American Friend, Freeman, came and sat with me an hour or two and talked. His comrade. Parsons, hearing of a brother’s sudden death, has gone homeward. Same City and Hotel, Saturday, March 15, 1890. I paid for my passage to Hobart. Then, I walked out the Eastern end of Princes Street to the limits of the City proper, beyond which on the one side are open fields, on the other the Cemeteries, located upon the Hills of which I have spoken as girdling the town. I wandered through these Ceme- teries ; all adjoining, divided into Sects — Hebrew, Catholic, Estab- lished Church, and General. The Hebrew was manifest not only in the Hebrew Language of the Inscriptions upon the Tombstones, but the names ranging through Patriarchs, Prophets, Kings, and Commonalty — from Abraham to Lazarus. The Catholic had many Irish names — some with, some without the O’. But there are two things always which may be profitably gathered from Burial places, in addition to the Religious and moral emotions, which Gray’s Elegy has epitomised for the generations — the wealth of a Community and DUNEDIN. 209 the duration of the lives of its people — its material prosperity and its healthfulness. In walking through and scanning the Monuments and their Records, I was not impressed with the volume of wealth or the length of life there manifested. When a Community has grown rich, much passes at the death of its members into Memorials of it over their Graves ; this seems to be a kind of instinct. But there is not a single handsome Tombstone here. Dunedin has the reputation of being an uncommonly healthy spot; the Cemetery is quite well filled — the Record showing many children, youths, and middle aged, scarce any who reached the age of three-score. This is by no means a healthy record. Yet the town manifests much expenditure of money in the public and private buildings, and the people one sees upon the streets look healthy enough. Passing through, I climbed the fence into the open fields, crowning the lofty hills. The view from the Cemeteries was good ; from the higher sites uncommonly extensive and beautiful. The Inlet, at the end of which Dunedin stands, could be traced windiug among the highlands like a Fjord ; the town lay beneath me, compactly built, on the low ground, now and then in clumps of trees, creeping South and Westward into suburbs along the flanks of the elevations, on a spur of which I stood. Whilst to the East, another quite extensive suburb lay, beyond which, a mile or two away, the Ocean was heav- ing in the sunlight, and painting for miles the shore line white with its surf — across which, forgetting the lovely scene around me, I sent to you my thoughts, swifter than an Eagle in his flight. I wandered here several hours, and along the Belt of which I have spoken, where stand some handsome Villa-homes ; around me in the open fields the Buttercup and Dandelion lifting their faces to the Sky, reminding me, in their behavior, of what I have witnessed on many a scene in England. From these heights, I descended to the Hotel on a Cable Tram. In the Evening, just opposite in the open Square with Music and Torches, the Salvation Army held forth. This strikes me as one of the strangest and most incongruous phenomena of our whirligig Age — the attempt to reach, by noise, the highest, holiest things, whose habitation is the Everlasting Realm of Silence. Not to be contempt- uous, would it not be quite as congruous to hunt ducks with a Brass Band — and I trow quite as successful, too ? 14 210 LETTER NO. IS. Same City and Hotel, Sxmday, March 16, 1890. I wept to Church this morning at the First Presbyterian. This Denomination is in the ascendant in Dunedin, its inhabitants being in the main the offspring of the Kirk, The Church is the handsome one of which I have spoken, built of stone, in Gothic Style, and not far from the Hotel, standing on an ornamented Square — by the con- tour of the ground, level with the street in front and cut away in the making of the other sides, leaving it upon a kind of truncated Acropolis — a situation with which many of its members are familiar in their Old City of Edinburgh. The Officials were very polite, and showed me a seat, and gave me a Book of Psalms and Hymns, that I might join in the singing. The Congregation was full and large, highly respectable, plain Scotch-looking people, more substantial than pretty. The Sermon, from a comparatively young man, had not the admirable traits I have ascribed to the audience : it was chaffy and wheatless. Sir Thomas and his Lady went to the Second Presbyterian, and when I got back, I asked him what he had. He replied, not much ; it seemed to go in at one ear and out at the other. Mine was too light even to get beyond the Tympanum, After Lunch, I had a good time with myself, I visited the Mu- seum, and spent a jileasant hour looking at its contents and the people. This opening of a Sunday afternoon seems to be a breaking away from the Kirk. From my observation now in every part of the World, it is an innovation to be approved. I have never in any Country seen at such places otherwise than good behavior, and the works of Nature and Art, there preserved, cannot be otherwise than improving and elevating. Many cannot get there on any other day, and if not there on that, would be, doubtless, at some worse place. In theory, this question was with me open to discussion ; my extensive observation has settled it, to my mind, beyond controversy. In general, embracing the variety of its contents, this Museum is not equal to that at Christchurch : but in its Natural History Collection, especially relating to Australasia, it is superior ; and I was gratified to find many Birds, Animals, and Bejitiles, which I had not hitherto seen. DUNEDIN. 211 Leaving the Museum, I strolled on beyond the limits of the town to the Botanical Garden, a young affair, well located, but too juvenile to be of much import under that high-sounding name ; not equal in any way to the one in its rival, Christchurch, of which I told you when there. Walking along the crest of the Hill which bounds one of its sides, I reached the New Cemetery, upon its summit. The one I visited yesterday is older, and the town encroaching on it ; they, I am told, only allow the interment of the members of families whose ancestors are buried there. In making the same survey, I found, in the lapse of years, the longevity of its occupants had not increased ; but their wealth evidently had. There were many more and hand- some Monuments — one in the form of a Gothic Chapel, of White Marble, not, I think, admirable in taste, but in size and cost, very conspicuous. But, better than all, the view from this site was simply superb — just the reverse of that from the Old Cemetery. This took that in, and the intervening City, between the Mountains and the Inlet, and sweeping beyond and embracing the farther suburb, seeming now in the distance to lie upon a narrow strip of land, between water and water, and bounded by the boundless Ocean. Dunedin, surely, is blessed in its location. Many people were abroad of all ages and sizes in their Sunday clothes, enjoying, like myself, the weather and the scene. Among them were a few Chinese, invariably dressed in our costume, even to the hat, which, doubtless, concealed a coiled up Pigtail. And here I will remark I have seen few Chinamen in any part of New Zealand, in either Island, in town or country ; and when I have met them, they have been always in European dress. This Evening Sir Thomas introduced me to a Mr. Halliday, from Australia, a sturdy, hearty old Scotchman, who gave me a cordial salutation as one of his kin, though we did spell our names with the variation of one letter — he insisting his was the right way, mine a corruption. He is a Squatter, as they call it here, or Sheep and Wool grower, and one of the wealthiest men in the Colonies. We may see more of each other. I will now bring this long letter to an end. I want to start it forthwith to Auckland, that it may catch on the 24th inst. the monthly Steamer to San Francisco. They tell me I have several days more, before the closing mail day, for that Ship, which the Post 212 LETTER NO. 12. Office always regards and prepares for. But I am so anxious for you to receive it, that I would rather it should rest in Auckland than be belated in reaching there by an accident or delay upon the Route. You can by possibility only hear from me once a month, and the missing of a Steamer makes it two — a long time. This want of connection, which keeps me much longer here than I desire, annoys me, and you, too, I am sure — thus prolonging my stay from home. Since the first of December, when we parted, I have thus, inland and by sea, lost quite one month of time. I trust this will not attend me through. On Thursday I leave for Tasmania. In my last I told Taylor to write to me on its receipt to Cape Town, Africa, care of Bank of Africa, and at the same time write to that Bank to hold my Letters till my arrival there; and at once also notify your Mother and your Uncle Charles. I here notify you all again to the same effect, lest some misfortune may have overtaken that. I am well-nigh famished for news from you all. For rarity of communication, this Tour beats all I have ever made. I have writ- ten you much and in many Letters, which I trust, however laggingly, have ultimately reached and kept you with me in my goings. By reason of my movements, and the far distant places of rendezvous of your Letters I have had to appoint, I hear more rarely from you than you from me. I can hear nothing now till I get to Melbourne. I trust you are all well and things going happily. I am sure your Letters will be gathered to greet me in Australia, and give me pic- tures that will make me feel at home, though many a mile away. Kind wishes to our neighbors and my friends. I hope Dr. Fuller comes often to see your Uncle Taylor, and cheers him up in his lone- liness. May God bless you every one ! With tenderest love for all, F. I mail this in three Envelopes. DUNEDIN. 213 [No. 13.] Dunedin, New Zealand, Grand Hotel, Monday, March 17, 1890. My Dear Taylor , — I finished No. 12 to Mary yesterday, and niailed it with the Post- master to-day to your address in three Envelopes. I expressed my desire to him that it should be forwarded at once to Auckland, that no casualty by a later Mail might prevent its transmission thence to you by the next Steamer. I notice in the papers a Cablegram announcing the safe arrival of the Alameda at San Francisco, on her return from these regions. Whilst I write, the Letters it carried from me are hasting to you across the Continent. May they liave a safe deliverance. Another strange meeting : When I gave the Letters to the Post- master to stamp for me, he remarked that he thought we had met before. He remembered coming across from San Francisco to Honolulu with me eight years ago, and my presiding at a Moot-Court gotten up by the Passengers, and making a very fine address, which was regarded as the event of the voyage. I thanked him, and said the same thing was alluded to by my friends the other day in Honolulu, when I stopped there on my journey here, and remarked that I supposed myself and the speech had been long since forgotten — and then upon the strange con- tingency of travel that he and I should have in such a casual way been thrown together again. I have nothing in particular to tell you in this Day’s proceedings. It was blustery, and the settling effects of the rain having passed away, the dust was disagreeable, and I did not walk in the morning. In the afternoon I strolled up and down Princes and George Streets, more for exercise than for the sights. I have Dunedin under my feet pretty well, and would like to move on. Sir Thomas and Lady Mackelwraith and Sir Maurice O’Rourke and I have much talk about Australia, New Zealand, England and America, and I gather knowledge, as is my wont. 214 LETTER NO. IS. Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, March 18, 1890. Again I strolled about the City and its suburbs — not that I could find or see anything new — simply to enjoy again the many points of view, and consume the time. I talked with Sir Thomas and Sir Maurice and others about the Politics of Australia and New Zealand. The latter told me, as the former had already done, with regard to Australia, that New Zealand had no wish to sever from the Mother Country ; was satisfied with the bond which bound them together, finding no cause of complaint — only cause of congratulation for a protection both gentle and cheap. In my travels and talks with the people everywhere, these views seem to prevail. I have found in some instances among the young, Agrarian and Communistic sentiments, followers of Herr Most and Henry George, who, having the ideas, like many a so-called Evolutionist, could rattle off commonplaces without being able to give any reason for the faith that was in them. New Zealand is more taken up with her economic affairs than her Political. The hard times of which they complain everywhere is more discussed, though too often, here and elsewhere, the ignorant hasten to find a solution of these troubles in Political subterfuges. In the afternoon my new Friend, Mr. Halliday, to whom, you remember. Sir Thomas Mackelwraith introduced me, and I took a stroll. He is a sturdy old Scotchman, who has thriven greatly, and now owns a Station of two hundred thousand acres, on which he runs two hundred thousand sheep. Australia beats the world in the ownership of this harmless, valuable creature, claiming to care for, I believe, one hundred millions of them. Mr. Halliday insists I must visit his Station. Sir Thomas makes the same insistance as to his Country Home, and others to whom I have been introduced. Should I break my rule with regard to accepting hospitalities, you would soon change your views concerning its propriety, in which you and I have always differed ; for to accept would consume mouths of time and almost make me a sojourner in Foreign Lands. You had better forthwith come to my way of thinking. DUNEDIN. 215 Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, March 19, 1890. I took a Carriage and invited Mr. Halliday and young Freeman to a drive, which they accepted. I, also, invited Sir Thomas Mackel- wraith, but he had engagements and could not go. Sir Maurice O’Rourke has been sick for a day or two. We drove to Ocean Beach, of which I have hitherto spoken, when seen from one of the elevations. A large new Building is standing near the shore, intended for a Hotel, but not yet thus utilized. The Governor of this Colony and his family occupied it last Summer, the Driver said. It now looks empty and deserted. Driving thence a half mile or thereabouts we came to a more interesting spot, called Sinclair, which has been a Bathing place for some time, and admirably fitted up for the purpose. It fronts the open Ocean, and the waves to-day were coming grandly in with long breakers that would have delighted the heart of a Kanaka Surf- Rider. At a place along the Shore, they have, with the natural rocks and concrete, enclosed a Pool right on the Beach, perfectly safe, yet open to the enjoyment of the waves — the racers bounding land- ward, and giving the bathers, over the natural or artificial river, the full benefit of their roll. The best arrangement for Sea-bathing I know anywhere. The day again was beautiful, and we enjoyed greatly our drive. On our return, Mr. Halliday went with me to the Steamship Company’s Office to secure my Berth. The Steamer Mararoa had arrived and now the matter could be definitely fixed — the Agent told us the crowd would be great, and probably some would be left in Dunedin for want of room upon the Steamer. Happily my precau- tion of taking time by the forelock has saved me from this misfortune. The Vessel is one of the best, I am told, of the Line. During the day, I made inquiry of Cook & Sons, Tourist Agents, whose Office is in the Hotel, about my Voyage from Australia to the Cape Colonies, concerning which there is some complication, there being no regular Steam service direct. It can only be done by a combination of Lines and a zigzag Route. When I reach Melbourne I can obtain more accurate information and will advise you. It would be bad if I should not be able to accomplish my object, with- 216 LETTER NO. 13. out lingering too long in the Tropics, or returning home through San Francisco ; or from New Zealand by Steamer rounding Cape Horn to England and thence Home. For after that long circuit I would not go to Cape Town ; it would make my absence from you too prolonged. I saw a Frenchman, just arrived, who offered to give me all needed information; but I found him an Agent of the French Line, and, also, pretty full — and too much interested and too boozy, and hence altogether too voluble, to give me much satisfactory infor- mation. But 1 will determine my Route, further on. Probably I will meet my American Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nead, again, and we may make up our mind to travel from Australia together. I spent a while with Sir Thomas and Lady Mackelwraith in their Room this Evening. They leave by Rail in the morning for Bluff,, on the South Coast — where the Steamer will pick them up — she being a bad Sailor and wishing to avoid the Sea to the extent of her ability. This, with having my Trunk and Deck Chair righted up for a fresh start, consumed the time till the hour for Bed — which I greeted in my accustomed cordial manner. Not a few acquaintances, whom I casually made in my travels over the Islands, have gathered here to take the Mararoa to-morrow. Steamship Maraeoa, En Route from Dunedin to Bluff, Thursday, March 20, 1890. This morning I was early out in Dunedin and found my Chair and Trunk righted up for another chain of Travel. Though the Steamer did not put out till half past three o’clock in the afternoon, I breakfasted and had my Baggage sent to the Landing, that I might have it put in my Cabin and be ready at the hour. I had rather be in advance than of the crowd ; I can, then, quietly walk the Deck and see them come. And the crowd was great. I found myself one of four in the Cabin assigned ; but it is large and roomy and well ventilated, and I think things will be comfortable enough. My acquaintances are quite numerous, even should I make no more, which is hardly prob- able. The Ship is a fine one of three thousand tons, handsomely finished and appointed, equal in every way to her reputation, and DUNEDIN TO BLUFF. 217 looking able and willing to land me safely in Tasmania, whither I am bound. Mr. Rowney came aboard to go to Melbourne, and his Sister, Mrs. Ritchie, came with him, to see him ofP, and looked me up to bid me Good Bye ! and express their regrets at my not paying them the visit at Port Chalmers, before leaving New Zealand. Mr. Halliday and his two Daughters came — fine looking young Ladies ; a Mr. Rutherford, another Scotchman, now a Citizen of these Islands — recently moved from Australia, whither he and Mr. Halliday came more than thirty years ago, among the old Colonists ; a Mr. Bethune, from old Scotia, too, now living in Melbourne, where he is bound, introduced himself to me — telling me he had lived in Minneapolis for some years, and overworked himself there, coming to Australia for the benefit of his health. We have had much pleasant talk, and will have more. My neighbor at the Table is a Mr. Gibson, a cultivated, gentle- manly Scotchman, from Edinburgh ; he tells me he is now the City Clerk of Dunedin, and he and his wife are on their way to their old home — both anticipating a chai’ming time after many years of absence. He is full of incident, having been in his young days in the Blackwood Publishing House, and met many of the men who made that Magazine famous. He has seen and heard Christopher North, De Quincey, Jeffrey, Wordsworth, Southey, and once wit- nessed a discussion between the first two — the little mummyfied De Quincey and the glorious Christopher in the pride of his manly strength and beauty, and gave me a graphic picture of the contrast, notwithstanding this contrast, rendered equal by their intellectual genius and resources. I hope we may have many more pleasant talks upon similar subjects ; which hope he was, also, complimentary enough to express to me. We got off at the appointed hour ; the freight and passengers, then all aboard, the Cables were lifted, and we steamed out toward the Ocean. It was quite a gay sight for Dunedin — the Decks were thronged with passengers and the Landing equally thronged with their friends to speed them on their journey, and the waving of handkerchiefs and flowers made quite a brilliant scene. Receding, the City showed well, along the Shore and upon the heights, with which, by this time, we are both familiar. The Shores of the Inlet are in many places well cultivated and ornamented with excellent houses. 218 LETTER NO. 13. We passed Port Chalmers, without stopping — looking well in retro- spective view, and in an hour or two were out upon the Broad Waters, bound for Bluff, upon the Southern Coast — distant from Dunedin one hundred and thirteen miles. The Sea and air were calm, and the Ship went without a tremor ; and soon after dark I was in my cot and fast asleep. At Bluff, New Zealand, And on the Ocean, between Bluff and Hobart, Friday, March 21, 1890. I was on Deck by six o’clock to see our coming into Bluff. I went to bed before my Cabin comrades and had a good night’s rest, and rose before any of them, to make room. One is a Londoner, by the name of Harding; another a small Britisher, by the name of Smyth ; the third name I have not heard. They are quiet, well- ordered men, and do not in any manner obstruct my fine sleeping qualities ; and happier still, don’t get sea-sick. By half-past six we are tied up at Bluff, a small but well-built town, of from five hundred to a thousand people. My impression is, that as Hammerfest, Norway, is the farthest North of any town in the World, Bluff is the farthest South. I have told you of dreary Hammerfest ; Bluff does not compare with it in dreariness — on the contrary, is quite a bright looking place, to which the day helped much to contribute. Immediately on our tying up, Oystermen came and exposed their wares for sale upon the Landing — good-looking and fat Oysters tliey were, too. But whilst well-seeming, they are tough, and not equal to ours in flavor, — indeed, where are any in the World their equal? They are gathered in the South, or Stewart Island, waters, and in the Straits between it and the Middle. Some of us had an early Breakfast, and learning that the Steamer would not leave till half-past three p. m., we took the train and ran up to Invercargill — seventeen miles distant. The intervening Country is not much to see — Tussock, Bush, and Manuka or Tea Plant, all of which you know well by this time. Most of the land is as yet uncultivated. Mr. Angus Robertson and his wife and Dr. and Mrs. Lempriere, travelling with them, and Mr. Campbell and Mr. Row- ney went with me. I walked over Invercargill on my arrival — a well-built town of several thousand people, well supplied with Hotels BLUFF TO HOBART— NEW ZEALAND. 219 and Banks — Alas ! like all New Zealand with the latter, it strikes me, too well supplied. From my observation over the Islands, these Banks are draining the life-blood of the Colony. It is out of the question, that a farming and grazing Community can stand the rate of interest charged — from six to ten and twelve per cent — without ultimate ruin. And I find, upon inquiry, this is one of the troubles now pressing upon the farmer and sheep man ; their lands are under Mortgage to these corporations, and in effect, they own New Zea- land. I met Sir Thomas Mackelwraith on the Street, and he and Lady M. will, he said, join the Steamer this afternoon. We returned at mid-day, in good time, and at the appointed hour steamed out on our voyage to Hobart, the Capital of Tasmania. The weather changed somewhat, and gave promise of coming roughness. I should not be surprised to-morrow if the storm was abroad. We are in Latitudes where adverse elements are not far apart, and can easily conjoin their forces and stir up a muss. After leaving Bluff, along the South, across Foveaux Straits, stretched a long line of Stewart Island, the small one of the New Zealand Group ; but not near enough to distinguish anything upon its shores. Now, that I have done my travels in New Zealand, — What of it ? These Islands have been both over and under written. The Tour- ist, and Steamer, and Railway Agents have drawn it in colors, quite too extravagant — describing it as “ an Eden ” ; “ an Earthly Paradise”; ‘‘a precious stone set in the Silver Sea,” and other such high-sounding appellations : — these terms in his mind, the traveller disappointed, has gone to the other extreme, and greatly underrated its beauties and resources. You have been with me quite thoroughly over the two Islands, which may be said to embrace New Zealand : for the small appendant called Stewart Island is of but little import economically, and of none to the general traveller. Each day gave you the story of my experience and I will not repeat. I may be said to have seen every- thing characteristic, save the Sounds on the Southwest Coast, which are of scenic interest, like the Fjords of Norway, and by many regarded as their equal, though in a different phase of the Ailsthetic : 220 LETTER NO. 13. those grander in their, in the main, bleak and rugged import ; these more beautiful in the foliage with which they are clothed. The Excursions — two or three in number annually — had been made before my arrival in the Islands, and no mode of communication remained to me during this Season. Recalling the incidents of my travel, you will agree with me, that no equal area of the Earth, Continental or Insular, is in possession of such a variety of Natural Phenomena, and of such large import. Some Countries present one or more : some, others of these phenomena, but no one presents them all, save New Zealand. The North Island, interesting with its Volcanic agencies and forces — the Middle with its Glacial; and travelling through them from North to South, you have Hot Lakes and Geysers and Gorges, and Mountain Lakes, and Snow- Clad summits with Glaciers of world-renowned import, and Fiords rivalling the finest anywhere in scenic interest. This is a wonderful range of extraordinary things, and without a rival in the World. The Country is young, and their accessibility has not been rendered easy to the traveller, as in Norway and Switzerland and other regions, blessed with their possession. These facilities of locomotion will come in time, with the advent of population and wealth. These last words suggest the other question of interest to New Zealand — Will that population and consequent wealth ever come? Do her resources justify the hope? The average traveller having read the extravagancies to which I have referred, is disappointed, and under reaction, does injustice to her claims. He sees around him Mountains, bleak and barren, often without the sign of vegetation ; Plains, and Mesas, and Valleys, where no natural tree is gx’owing, covered by coarse Tussock, or bunch grass, looking yellow and sun- blasted, or frost-bitten, or with Tea plant or Fern and Scrub, and not I’egarding such appearances as indicative of Eden or an Earthly Paradise of any sort, pronounces tlie whole thing a fraud, and New Zealand an irredeemable desert. This is an extravagance quite equal to that which causes it. Consequently, many come here to live, induced by the Boomers, and disappointed, speedily go away ; the Islands have in the last few years, instead of increasing, lost one hundred thousand people — one-seventh of their population — proving what we have full experience of in our own Country — that the reaction from a Boom is worse than the original inactivity. In addition, whilst much money has been spent in making Roads and NEW ZEALAND. 221 opening up the Couutiy, until now great complaints are heard of the enormous debt and its heavy burdens, yet large areas remain, too far from market to make their agricultural products available in the markets of the World, with other Countries of easier access in com- petition. Its pastoral resources are undisputed, and the Ranges or Runs for Sheep are equal in number to from fifteen to twenty millions. This is the Country which, with its yellow Tussock and treeless Mountains, leaves such a sense of desolation on the mind of the stranger. But a more abundantly and beautifully watered domain than some of these Reaches I never saw. You remember how the clear, limped streams were, whilst we travelled for hours and miles, ever racing across our pathway. And that the land would produce, was evidenced by the Station or Squatter Oases, which dotted everywhere many of the far- reaching Landscapes. Nor were we left to this by inference alone. You will recall, also, the thousands of magnificent acres of wheat and oats and potatoes, equal to the very best our best soils can produce, that met us in different sections. The natural growth, without irrigation, present- ing the soundest of all proofs, that hundreds of thousands of other acres of similar character could be reduced to the same profitable cultivation. Of course, the rugged mountains of bare rock, and the beds of shingle and boulders left in ages gone by the Glacier in its struggle for life, must ever belong to the Realm of the Aesthetic rather than the productive ; but enough of that which belongs to the latter remains, to make in time New Zealand a wealthy Country. But that time, from their inaccessibility, is not now; rather, I think, will be for many generations deferred. Virgin soils in other parts of the World, more convenient, will be used before these Lands of the Antipodes will come actively into play. When that time comes, then, also, will come the day for the beati- fication of its Natural wonders. They will be opened up and become accessible to the easy-going traveller, and Mount Cook, with its Glaciers, will be as conveniently reached as the Matterhorn and Kin- chinjunga ; the Hot Lakes and their accompaniments, the Sounds and their varied beauties, and the Mountain Lakes of the Middle Island, will be ornamented with culture and wealth, and thronged by the stranger like the Yellowstone, Norway, and Switzerland. 222 LETTER NO. 13. But whilst in talking to New Zealanders of their Country, I am thus liberal in my expressions of admiration for its beauties and resources, I am, also, honest enough to tell them that their full appreciation and development are not yet. This generation, and probably many more, how many, I cannot say, will have to learn that hard lesson — to labor and to wait. It has, with a species of extravagance, been called the Great Britain of the Antipodes. It has natural phenomena far surpassing Great Britain in volume and variety; but how many centuries of industry have been spent in clothing the Mother Country in vestments, which make her now the most beautiful land upon the Earth ? The same number will not have to come and go before New Zea- land will put on her artificial garments of adornment ; for her, the forces will appear, which have made the whole World a Family of Nations, and expedite her development. A little while ago, she was the Land of the Cannibal and the bugbear of missionaries and chil- dren. Now, the fierce, manly Mahori is nearly gone — Mtj per cent of them in the last twenty years. I have seen scarce any in the South Island ; a half century more, and none will be left in either, to tell the story of their fate before the remorseless march of the Anglo- Saxon. Yet, in God’s economy, it is the survival of the fittest ; and no one who desires the best interests of the Human Family, will ever be willing to see the fulfilment of the forecast, that some traveller hence “may take his stand upon a broken Arch of London Bridge to sketch the ruins of St. Paul ; ” but, rather, that the Bridge and Temple may both endure, emblems of a Civilization and a Power, which, uniting with our own Colossus, shall make our English Tongue the spoken language of the World. In course of time. New Zealand, putting about her Natural glories the adornments of Culture and Art, will, without exaggeration, be the Great Britain of the South, and, not sending a traveller to sketch any ruin of the Great Britain of the North, will rather join her to swell the Anglo-Saxon terrestrial triumph. The Boomer’s high-sounding words will no longer, then, be fulsome ; but all will admit New Zea- land to be deserving of their praise ; the prodigality of her gifts and her resources no one will deny ; sure enough, “A Fortress built by Nature for herself, A Precious Stone, set in the Silver Sea.” PACIFIC OCEAN— BLUFF TO HOBART. 223 On Ocean, between Bluff and Hobaet, Saturday, March 22, 1890. My anticipations have been realized. The day has been very rough. The Sea Monster came, as usual with the roughness, and like Samson with his Jaw Bone, scattered his victims around thick as Philistines. Few have appeared at Table, but in the crowded condition of the Steamer lay wounded hither and thither about the Saloons and Decks. Happily, my Cabin comrades are all good sailoi’s, and we are comfortable. But my other Friends are weak in such adversity, and every one of them has fallen in the fray ; even my interesting table companion from Edinburgh has fled from the fleld, and is too feeble to occupy his seat. I hope he will come out again before we part at Hobart, and renew our interesting talk. But whilst I have lost these, the Albatross has come in numbers, and enlivened the scene from the Deck. You remember, I saw, I think, only two of them in my passage to and through Magellan ; and inferred they preferred the more boisterous region of the Horn. Now I am gratified. They are after and about the Steamer in scores, describing circles in the air, upon far-reaching, untiring wing — a splendid spectacle. It is a charm to watch them — now soaring, with- out a tremor, in the teeth of the Gale, against the boisterous air — now dipping their pen feathers in the Sea — rejoicing in their strength and skill. They are of various colors — some nearly white — and when a big one speeds by upon or against the wind, it seems to fling defiance at the Steamer in its lagging, struggling gait. The com- paratively commonplace Gull has gone ; the only associate I observe in the brilliant corps, is the Cape Pigeon — a much smaller, but yet a clean-cut, graceful Bird upon the wing. But there ever seems to be harmony among these joint denizens of Sea and air. They do not appear to quarrel or feed upon each other, like the winged inhabitants of the Land ; but with the universal brotherhood of Uncle Toby and the Fly, esteem “the World big enough for both thee and me,” and in their ceaseless circuits, cross and recross each other’s orbits in the Sky in friendliest mood. 224 LETTER NO. 13. On Same Sea and Ship, Sunday, 3Iarch 23, 1890. Sunday has come and gone without special observance on the Ship. The weather promised fairer yesterday afternoon : but gathered up and behaved no better to-day — shaky and disagreeable — keeping the passengers scattered and in disorder. I continued well. What a blessing to me, whilst on these vast circuits, the Sea and I are ever in accord ! My Friend Mr. Gibson has righted up and came out again, and our meals are seasoned with constant talk of Scotland and her heroes. His extensive reading and experience make him full of incident, and my own knowledge stimulated, comes out and joins him, and together we traverse Old Scotland’s scenes of Flood and Field, and the charm- ing ranges of her Literature. Many, whom I know only in their Books, he knew in flesh and blood, and vitalizes my memory with personal stories of their lives. My Room-mate, Mr. Smyth, a Londoner, and I, with Map in hand, study my Route to Southern Africa, where he has been ; whilst I tell him my experience and observation in South America, where he wants to go. And another Gentleman, Mr. Crawford, hearing of my proposed visit, comes to introduce himself, that he may tell me about Natal, where he has resided many years. And thus of others, who on ray travels seem ever ready to speed my movements and add to the pleasure of my Tours. But I have not time to tell of my various acquaintances and talks : they would fill a book and weary you, even was the time abundant. In the afternoon, I sat on Deck and watched the Sun a-going down — and the Royal Albatross, performing his equally royal evolutions — and called up the sorry fate of that Ancient Mariner who with his bow called down upon his hapless head, a vengeance now known everywhere. But whilst I thus admire the Albatross, I do not think in some respects he rivals the Frigate Bii’d, of which I have often told you in Rio and the West Indies. The latter, though not of such reach of wing, is of cleaner cut, of loftier flight, and swifter speed ; he strikes me, in his movements, as the most brilliant inhabitant of the air — belonging either to Land or Sea. HOBART. 225 The weather towards the Evening lulls, and I trust to-morrow we will run into Hobart with a calm Ocean, and a clear Sky. On the Same Sea, AND AT Hobart, Tasmania, Hadley’s Hotel, Monday, 3Iarch 24, 1890. Nearing Land, the Sea calmed down, and quite early, Tasmania came distantly in sight. The Clouds dispersed, and advancing. Storm Bay opened its wide arms to receive us into quiet waters, in a manner quite contradictory to its name. The land on either side rose into Mountains from the Shore, covered with vegetation, save here and there a Villa or a Farmstead, ditferent from the many bare Mountains of which I wrote you in New Zealand. The Bay narrowed as we progressed; after a while Mount Nelson, one thousand feet or more in height, rose, crowned with a Flag Statf and Signal Station, and beyond it. Mount Wellington, more than four thousand feet, with its bulky top of Basaltic Pillars like pipes of organs — an imposing figure in the Landscape; between them, Hobart lay, well built and stately upon its rising site, the Derwent River, with broad sweep, coming in upon her left. We came to Hobart about two o’clock p. m., distant from Bluff, nine hundred and twenty miles. We were soon lauded at the Wharf, and the passengers began to scatter. This is not the terminus of the Steamer’s run ; she goes on to Melbourne to-morrow, and my friends go on with her. I stay and make my way across the Island by rail, that I may see Tasmania and this, her Capital. But many got off to spend the night in town and have the comfort of a respite from the Steamer’s crowd — among them. Sir Thomas and Lady Mackelwraith, Mr. Halliday and his Daughters, Mr. and Mrs. Robertson and their friends. Dr. and Mrs. Lempriere, and Mr. Rutherford. Mr. Halliday went ahead and engaged a Room for me at this Hotel, which, like those I told you of in New Zealand, has been crowded with people flying the heat of Australia’s Summer months. But this is the first month of the Autumn, and the crowd is thinning. I had no trouble in securing quarters. I took a Carriage and with my Baggage was driving to the Hotel, when I met Sir Thomas and Lady M., who had preceded me, in a Carriage. They stopped and invited me to join them in a drive, 15 226 LETTER NO. 13. which I agreed to, when I had fixed myself and quarters. On my arrival at the Hotel, Mr. and Mrs. Robertson invited me to dine with them at the Hotel ; and then Mr. Halliday extended the same invi- tation ; both proposing to spend the night in town. The afternoon was delightful, and our ride was all we could desire — six miles out, over a fine road to the source of the City’s Water supply, upon the side of Mount Wellington. Our own Old Spring in its beneficent flow is not purer nor simpler. The water coming down in a cascade, forms a Pool, into which the main pipe is inserted — in volume over abundant for Hobart, with its thirty thousand people. The Road is ascending nearly all the way, and through a lai’ge part of the City and its suburbs. The streets are good, the Road- way Macadam, and the sidewalks asphalt, and the Houses mostly of brick or stone, many of them massive business structures, and hand- some, comfortable homes. The people of Australasia, to the extent of my observation, in their short career, have not delayed in putting on the best of the Old World’s Civilization. The views are very striking, opening wider and wider in the ascent, the City and its fine Harbor like a circular basin, with the Bay shores and the Islands seemingly land-locked, full in view; and higher still, the Ocean opening in the far distance. The country everywhere, save where cultivated, is covered with forests — of growths both large and small ; the Eucalyptus, or Blue Gum, prevailing ; but adorned here and there with Tree Ferns and other growths. We walked several hundred yards to the spot where the water from the Cascade is collected, and thence flows through the main into the City. Here we lingered, enjoying greatly the scene and temperature, for the Evening, though full of Sunlight, was cool and pleasant. Returning to our Carriage, which we left at a House of Entertainment, we refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea, and then drove back. Having an hour or two to spare, I spent the time in roving about the streets and looking in the shop windows, and buying a piece for the Set. I dined with the Robertsons and then called on the Halliday young Ladies, in their Reception Room, and talked to them of my travels, and made them, they said, dissatisfied to remain quietly at home, when the World with all its curious things and people were to be HOBART. 227 seen. They are nice refined girls, and I doubt not their rich father will gratify them. Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, March 25, 1890. To-day I spent in seeing Hobart, and the things and places to be visited by the Tourist, in and about it. Mr. Halliday and the two Young Ladies insisted I should Break- fast with them ; but I determined to take an earlier one and go up the River Derwent to New Norfolk — the most interesting excursion round about. I, therefore, had an early Breakfast, and by nine o’clock had bade all my Friends Good Bye ! and was at the Little Steamer that plies the River. They all insisted upon my visiting them at their City and Conntry Homes in Australia ; but I made no promises, and was pretty well resolved I would not — which they might readily have inferred. I told them my first desire was to see my Letters from Home, until which nothing could be promised, and then to find how I was to get there by the most speedy route via the Cape Colonies. I could conclude better about my future movements, when I reached Melbourne. At quarter past nine we moved out up the Derwent. There were seven or eight passengers beside myself — none of whom I knew or desired to — preferring tp be with and by myself, to enjoy the move- ment and the scene. The day was overcast early, and threatened rain ; but none fell and the Clouds were high, obscuring tlie Sun, but not the Landscape. I stood or sat on Deck the whole distance — twenty-five miles. For fifteen of them, to Bridgewater, the River was broad — more like an Inlet of the Sea — after that, it narrowed, making a sharp bend, coming from the West. The banks, on either hand, presented many cultivated fields, and Apple Orchards and Hop Gar- dens, both of which flourish greatly here, and have until recently yielded large revenues — but not, I am told, for sevei’al years — the World seems to be somewhat glutted, especially with apples — which, you know, we have equally and surely felt. The fields or areas not cultivated are in forests, more or less, and the foot-hills and Mountains behind them were covered with trees — some spindling and scattered — some heavily clad with what in the distance was not bad timber. The chief tree, however, still seemed to be the Eucalyptus — 228 LETTER NO. IS. large and small. It was altogether an Excursion worthy of the cost in time and money. To vary my Route, I returned on the train from New Norfolk, having to wait there about an hour and a half. A branch Road took me back to Bridgewater, where I changed to the Main Line from Hobart, North to Launceston. The scene was not greatly varied : — the track in the main pursuing the River Bank. Mr. Halliday had introduced me to Mr. Horsfall, another wealthy Sheep man from Australia. Mr. Horsfall had said this morning at Breakfast, that he would probably go back to Melbourne with me, when I went to-morrow ; but would tell me definitely when I returned. I returned at three o’clock. He met me at the Hotel and said he would not be able to go to Melbourne, but invited me to accompany him on a drive : which I cheerfully agreed to do, to the 2)oints of interest I had not yet visited. We drove to the Royal Domain, the Governor’s Mansion and the Botanical Gardens, lying on or near the banks of the Derwent and in close proximity to each other, consti- tuting a fine Park and Resort for the jjeojile of Hobart. The Mansion is an imposing structure, and the Gardens well improved. We then made a long circuit through New Town, a suburb of Hobart, and on the ride saw again numerous thrifty Orchards, both of Apples and Damsons ; and some large and fine edifices, the homes of the well- to-do and wealthy. On our return to the City we strolled about the streets and visited more especially the Public Square, or Garden, and Buildings, not far from the Hotel ; and again was I struck with the lavish exj»enditure of money in constructing and kee|)ing in rejmir these costly edifices and imjirovements. Where did and does the money come from? for Tasmania is a Virgin Country, with only about one hundred thousand inhabitants. Surely, like New Zealand, she has suffered and is still suffering from a Boom. The vast amount of money which these Buildings, Public and Private, cost, was not dug from the soil, but still rests an incumbrance upon them and the people. The Banks can answer knowingly. We walked till Dinner time, and I may now well say I have seen what Hobart has to interest the stranger. I forgot to mention that two good Bronze Figures adorn the Pub- lic Square — one to Cauthorn, a benefactor of the Colony, and the other to Sir John Franklin, the ill-fated Arctic Explorer. They are LAUNCESTON. 229 both good works of Art — the latter especially : showing a manly and impressive face and figure. Another thing I am sure will interest you. Horsfall told me that the Evening before he and Halliday and Robertson and another Australian, whom I have not met, counted up the Sheep upon their various Runs, and the sum total of their possessions is nine hundred thousand. This will give you some idea of the vast number in that country, and the wealth they represent. Launceston, Tasmania, Brisbane Hotel, Wednesday, March 26, 1890. Your map will show you that, from the name which heads this day, I have crossed Tasmania from South to North. I came all the way by Rail. I left Hobart at eight o’clock, and reached here at two p. m., dis- tance one hundred and thirty-three miles. I was unfortunate enough to strike an Excursion Train, taking people to the Races, and the throng was very great. They have in these Colonies the custom of issuing tickets just fifteen minutes before the hour of departure, as they have in Europe, you remember ; and the consequence is, the crush is most disagreeable — hustling like boys let out of school ; and the crowd in the cars was equally disagreeable. The run, however, is only fifty-five miles on this main line to Paducah, where a Branch Road leads to the Race Course — consequently, we were there much relieved by the emptying of the cars. The highest point on the Road, a gentleman informed me, was a mile or two before reaching Paducah — an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet. To that point the Road ascended, and from it descended the whole distance to Launceston. We had aboard two young Chinamen dressed in our costume, save the Pigtail, which I think they had coiled up under their felt hats, though they did not at any time remove them, and I could not certainly say. They spoke English very well, and in their gentlemanly, quiet deportment, were in the company conspicuous. I had some talk with one of them, a sensible fellow, about his country and their customs. With the gaming instincts of their Race, they had left their business in Hobart to try their fortunes on the Course. 230 LETTER NO. 13. The country is similar to that I have spoken of already on my trip yesterday as far as Bridgewater. Beyond that place less culti- vated land appeared. Tasmania is described as an Island of Moun- tains, not in Ranges, but in clusters or clumps, not unlike the leaves of a Rose ; and thus it seemed to me for more than half the run to-day — the Mountains rising everywhere around, isolated or in bunches, covered wdth trees save where they had been cleared for grass or cultivation. The Road wound its track among them. The character of the soil varied ; sometimes it was good and well cultivated, but I think the greater part thin — fit only for grazing purposes, and often with many sheep in sight ; much of it, too, was wet and sobby — the whole leaving an unfavorable impression with regard to Tasmania’s productive powers. In some places the Moun- tains, however, changed, and wide, open plains extended around, and the elevations receded into distant Blue Ranges, rather interfering with the clump theory of which I have spoken. But these plains in general did not impress me with great productiveness either in their general appearance or in the habitations and other improvements upon their surface. Sometimes, however, in areas, there were excep- tions — seeming to prove the rule — and evidently excellent Agricul- tural regions. The towns and stations contain nothing worthy of mention — Brighton, Jerusalem, Parattah, Ross, and others, we passed. When we reached Launceston I took a Cal) and, with my Baggage, drove to the Steamer Newcastle, which, I was informed ■was a good one, to take it for Melbourne. But the Train being delayed by the Excursion throng, the Steamer’s hour for departure had nearly come, and the throng boarding her amounted to a crowd. I was told every Berth was taken, and they were sj)reading beds in every vacant place. I saw no chance of getting on, but determined I would drive to the Office and make inquiry, so anxious was I to go. Here I received no comfort. Every foot of room was taken, and many had to be turned away. I then drove to the Office of another Line, whose Steamer leaves to-morrow — a much inferior ship, I hear — but I cannot wait for a better. I here obtained a Bei’th, and then came to this Hotel, an excellent one, and settled into the satisfaction which I always do on travel — that whatever betides, is for the best. LAUNCESTON. 231 In the afternoon I strolled over the town — a place of twelve or fourteen thousand people, well built mainly of stone and brick, and making, from the size and style and finish of the Buildings, Public and Private, the same impression, of which I have spoken elsewhere in the Colonies, of great wealth or great indebtedness ; of the latter rather, from those of the Banks and their number. The City is built like Hobart, on undulating ground, affording many fine sites, and is altogether an imposing place, seated on the River Tamar. The streets are well graded — Macadam for roadway and Asphalt for pavements. Strolling along, I observed a very handsome towered structure of brick going up, and inquired of an old Irishman passing at the time what it was. He said, the new Post Office. I remarked, “ You must have a great deal of money out here, to be able to build such fine houses.” He replied, with a merry twinkle of the eye, “ Oh, yes ! plenty of money.” I told him we were very poor in America, and would like for Tasmania to help us in our poverty. Keeping up the humor, he said ; “ What a pity ! what a pity ! Don’t you think you can pick up? If you can’t, we will give you some and then jogged on quite satisfied, as Pat ever is, that he had gone me better in the joke. Tasmania has, like New Zealand, been overdone, and is waiting a renaissance. Her population is only about one hundred and forty thousand. She has, like New Zealand, no great Natural cufiosites to attract the current of travel, which her sister Colony can ever draw. Most of her area is Mountains, beyond the reach of tillage, covered with forests in the main, which can hardly deserve the reputation of furnishing first-class Lumber, I understand. The climate is regarded among the finest in the world, and many from Australia come in their heated Summer time to enjoy it. It was once a Penal Colony, succeeding Botany Bay in New South Wales, Australia, in that ill- omened fate. Transportation was abolished in 1851, and Tasmania entered upon her career in that year with Victoria ; but the latter far outstripped her in the race of life, by the wonderful Gold find of that era, and her other more substantial resources, which like a magnet drew values from the adjacent Colonies, thus draining for the time their resources and crippling their growth. Yet still the stranger cannot help being struck with wonder at the manner in which these far-off Antipodes have strided in their material march to the fore-front of Nations, in the best products of our Civil- 232 LETTER. NO. 13. ization. If they have gone too fast, they will have to suffer for it, and stop to mend their hold, like many another people have had to do in the progress of their lives. From Launceston to Melbourne, And in Melbourne, Australia, Grand Hotel, Thursday and Friday, March 27 and 28, 1890. On Thursday I went with my Baggage to the Landing of the Steamer Flinders, bound for Melbourne, an hour or two before her time for departure. Having nothing else to do, I fixed aboard, and then wandered about the Piers, looking at the Trade or prospecting my fellow passengers whilst they came. The crowd was great again, and every available space on the Ship was filled. My Cabin had four ; but leaving the door open we got along very well, they making themselves agreeable enough. Among the Passengers, my Friend Horsfall appeared — called, he told me, after I left, to Melbourne on business. I was glad to see him, for he knows the region well, and was of great service in being with me on Deck during the Voyage and pointing out the things of intei’est. The steam down the River Tamar was striking. Where Launceston is located the stream is narrow, and the tide, which is considerable, being out, left a muddy looking little current, not favorable to beauty or to commerce. At two o’clock, p. m., it was improved by the tidal flow, and we steamed out, helped by boats and cables to keep the Ship from ploughing the close-lying banks. Half a mile below the River widened out, and appeared thence on to be more of an Inlet of the Sea or Estuary than a River, showing how unhappily the site of Launceston was chosen by its founders. Yet, receding, the City looked well, solidly built on the low ground, the houses crowning the surrounding elevations, many of them too inaccessible, apparently, for the comfort and convenience of the occupants. The steam down the River to Bass Strait is forty or fifty miles. For some distance, cleared land appeared on either side, and home- steads ; then it was forest-clad mountains, with timber such as I have spoken of elsewhere upon the Island. The approach to the River’s mouth, where it and the Strait conjoin, is very fine. On the right, in a recess, lies Georgetown, and then upon highlands four conspicu- ous Light Houses, their Lamps just lit and twinkling, whilst on the LAUNCESTON TO MELBOURNE. 233 other, the Sun was setting with great splendor, as Alexander Smith — a Poet we used to read twenty or thirty years ago — was wont to say, like a Giant dying in his blood. The River was quiet, and invited the passengers out to see it. When its waters flowed into the Strait, and the Vessel passed out upon the rougher current, its billows soon scattered them, and one hapless woman, before her husband could carry her to a place of safety, fell insensible on Deck. A curious creature is the Mai de Mer ! Yet the night, though rough to most on board, was kind to me, and whilst my three Room-mates — strong youiig men — had an un- happy time, I enjoyed the motion, which charmed me like a lulla.by. Early this morning — Friday — I was out, and in the distance saw Australia’s low-lying Shores. Advancing during the morning hours. Cape Schauk came first in sight — in front of which stands near by in the Sea a striking shaft, called Pulpit Rock. After a while we approach the entrance to Port Philip, an imposing gatewa}q where the waters of the Port and Strait meet in conflict. The Headlands close in, and taking my stand upon the Steamer’s Prow, I enjoyed the careering of the Ship, as she mounted the billows, caused by the incoming and outgoing waters. It recalled to me the meeting of the Columbia River’s flow with the Ocean across the Bar, which, you will remember, drove us back to Astoria. Here, too, as there, were several wrecks around, showing that neither place is absolutely free from danger. Just inside is Queeuscliff, with numerous fine Hotels and Baths — dominated by a Light House — where Melbourne’s people come to bathe and rusticate, and rest. Across Port Philip, then, we passed over smooth water — a great basin of thirty or forty miles in diameter — and then the houses of the greatest City of the Antipodes appeared, stretched in its huge flatness along the Shore, showing dimly its structures and its Ships through smoke and mist. I could not have had a flner day — the air was soft and balmy, and I could stand on my outlook, without discomfort of heat or cold, with my Friend Horsfall and a young Melbourne man, one of my Room-mates, by my side, to point out the sights and obtain an admirable impression of the lay of Melbourne and its import. We reached the City about half-past two o’clock — distant from Launceston, two hundred and seventy-seven miles. 234 LETTER NO. 13. When we landed, Horsfall introduced me to the Customs Officer, who without demur and most politely passed Trunk and Satchel, not opening either. This was especially courteous here, for Melbourne and its Colony, Victoria, are proverbially protective, and the duties are very high, and the espionage strict. Taking a Cab, with my Baggage, I drove at once to the Union Bank of Australia to get my Letters, which I hoped had gathered from you all ; and clutching them with the greed of avarice, I hurried to the Hotel, like a Miser with a treasure to his den. I soon had a Room assigned me, and fonnd I had the following Letters — together with eight packages of Papers — forwarded from Auckland : one from Charles, of January 27 ; one from Margaret, of January 12 ; and four from yourself, viz. January 9, January 15, January 23, and January 30; all of yours came safely, that could be received in Auckland and transmitted in the time. I fear Charles’ and Margai'et’s have failed for want of sufficient postage. These Colonies ai’e not in the Postal Union, I think I told you, and have their own special I'ates, payable in advance. You say two of yours met the fate of a return to Winchester from New York, for insuf- ficiency of stamps. Theirs, not having the Postmaster’s impression intelligible, were thrown into the waste basket. Always be careful to make the inquiry before you mail the Letters what the Postage is. You say you did of the Postmaster, and he made a mistake. The next point of designation, I advised you, is Cape Town, Africa, care of Bank of Africa. I do not know whether that is in the Postal Union or not ; make inquiry. I am glad you are progressing favorably with the improvements and that you think well of the outlay. Don’t forget what I told you about the supports, both of the Store Room with the brick columns and the upper stories upon the Store Room floor. And whilst at it, fix the cellar openings — brick work — and put an iron door in front. You speak of the ceiling being of plank, to prevent injury to it from the jarring above. Don’t, by any means, allow heavy machinery on the upper floors ; make the occupant use the back building for that. But all this is surplussage, doubtless, — you have thought of it your- self. I was truly sorry to hear about the Barn Roof. That was our friend John’s work; and I especially and frequently, when he was flxing it, at the time it was blown off before, urged him to lap and MELBOURNE. 235 stay the tin well. I fear he did not do it, or it would not have been carried away again. Some day, with such careless work, the whole Roof will be whirled off like a scroll, and put me to hundreds of dollars of expense. See him, and ask him, if he did it any better than before? You tell me nothing concerning the Wheat crop growing. It was a poor show when I left, but I hope the wonderfully mild winter of which you speak has brought it out. How I should like to have that Farm cultivated as I think it ought to be. But that, I reckon, I will never see. You speak of the death of poor Fred Yulton. No better young man ever grew up in onr town, and his seems a sad fate. His life eminently shows that high qualities are not without their reward, even now-a-days, upon the Earth ; for his life was elevated, praise- worthy and prosperous. Our good neighbor, Mr. Bell, has also gone. This I am not sur- prised to hear. He was an old man, nearly four-score, and departed in Nature’s ordinary course, having lived beyond our allotted span. You remember I saw him the day before I left. He held my hand some time, and with his benediction, said we would never meet in this world again, and wished me a safe return from my long journey and all good things during the years I should survive him. I shall miss him and our cheery meetings greatly. It gratifies me to know yon are getting on comfortably in your household matters ; I hope that condition of things may continue. Glad, too, to know that Carter is bright and gay. You must give always my love to Cousin Mary I am truly pleased she is doing well. Sorry to hear of Dr. Fuller’s Grippe attack ; hope it did not last long. Tell him and Mick and our neighbors generally I trust they will continue to brighten your lone- liness with their presence. I think you are right to call in the Travel Books, save two of each, as you proposed. I fear A. don’t know where the one I lent him is. Look at the list I left and keep them all in view. The Cable brings the most dreadful news of the destruction of Louisville, Kentucky, by a Cyclone. I sincerely trust our friends, the Robinsons, escaped its ravages. To Charles: Your Letter came. Would it had been more numer- ous and longer ! — not, however, full of Grippe news, like that which 236 LETTER NO. 13. you tell me invaded your preserves and made victims of your house- hold, scattering them around — quite similar in its work to the Mai de Mer, of which these pages tell you. I hope all are well again and have no lingering wounds. The children, you say, trace my travels on the Map. By the time I have done, should they continue with me, they will have used up the Atlas of the World. May they have pleasure and profit in this new method of Geographic Study. Love and kisses for them all. Essie was too busy to take on sick ; Julian has thrown off the malady, and both are themselves again in the well ordered house. Our Friend, Mr. Cassius Lee, has gone — an honorable man, full of years and of good works, as he regai’ded good- ness. Such men will no more grow ; the times are completely out of joint for them. Our old associates and friends are falling around us like Autumn leaves. You say Dr. Norton always asks after me. Give him my kindest wishes in return. He and I have many thoughts in common. He and I, if I mistake not, look upon Life, not as a sombre, but a serious thing ; and in that is both the happi- ness and the glory of it. Tell Mrs. Blackburn I am glad she finds such pleasure in being with me in my Travel wanderings. To Margaret : You have seen what I have said about my appre- hensions concerning the miscarriage of your Letters, or rather their failure for want of proper postage to carry at all. I hope they will yet come to hand. Doubtless, Taylor has told you of the fate of his and put you on your guard. Yours and Taylor’s and Charles’ Let- ters are each full of the Grippe invasion — a curious epidemic. Taylor tells me he has had it. I hope Dr. Mason will escape, and neither be used up by their work. Taylor tells me little Mag. has had it slightly; Mary has escaped. Tell her she must write oftener. My last Letter addressed to her contained eighty pages, I think — thus she owes me many. You speak of your ear troubling you again. I sincerely hope that trouble has clean gone. Love to Cousin Fred, and Bet. You say the former is not well. The afternoon was spent in reading the Letters, and thus com- muning with you all. You have observed, I have no doubt, from the United States Papers, that Henry George is out here travelling through the Colo- nies, ventilating his theories. I noticed by the Melbourne Papers that he was to deliver an address to-night in the Town Hall — the third and last of the Series, especially upon the Single Land Tax ; MELBOURNE— HENRY GEORGE. 237 the one for which he claims originality and upon which he bases his claim to distinction. I resolved to go — not only that I might see and hear him, neither of which were ever before in my power, but that I might witness the presence and the behavior of an Australian crowd, I went early to secure a good seat and observe the gathering of the audience. The Hall is a very fine one, both from the size of the Auditorium and its acoustic qualities, capable of seating two thousand people — the ceiling arching the whole, and covering it with a single span. The Platform is spacious and backed by an immense Organ — Concerts being often held there. The people, among whom were probably half a dozen women, collected quietly and gradually, till they filled the House; and a better looking, better behaved assembly I never saw. George is a short, thick-set man, with a well-formed head entirely bald; his cheeks and chin covered with a heavy uncut, sandy beard. He is not an orator, but speaks distinctly and well, without much action, yet with earnestness and confidence. The Audience were, in the main, those who had invited him to come, and were ready to endorse his utterances whether they comprehended them or not — many, if not most of them, under the idea that his views were for the benefit of those who had no property, at the expense of those who had. Having read George’s Books, I knew his views, and, therefore, did not go to hear him with the expectation of learning much, or hearing anything new ; rather for the purpose of seeing how he pre- sented them orally, and his mental resources. I heard nothing new, nor did he utter any ideas which I had not already gathered from his writings. I have not time, of course, to state his points ; nor would they interest you. His definition of the basis of Property is a pure assumption ; and his proposed theory of taxation, to relieve Progress of attendant Poverty, a transmission of the poor not only to injustice, but to more grievous burdens than under present dispensations they have now to bear. Alas ! the World has to learn and re-learn, with unspeakable suffering, from age to age, and generation to generation, under the Gad-fly irritation of the ignorant, the shallow, or the bad, that to Revolutionize is not to Reform. To destroy, is easy, and given unto the Iconoclast to do ; to construct is difficult, and given 238 LETTER NO. IS. unto only a few Master Builders, who appear now and then upon the Earth. Henry George is not one of these. He and his friends, in extreme confidence, either in his strength or that of his principles, or in both, were imprudent enough, at the con- clusion of his Address, to invite questions from the Audience. They came in considerable numbers, none of them profound or radical, I thought, yet enough to confound George and impair the force, if not destroy the effect, of his set speech. Here I was greatly disappointed in him. I supposed having addressed popular audiences upon his pet theory for many years, and having really thought of nothing else for many more, he would be fully armed for such an emergency, and be able to give plausible, if not profound answers. But he was com- pletely thrown adrift, showing himself a man of scant intellectual power and resource. Yet the bulk of the audience, composed mainly of youths, and young, and uneducated men, not comprehending the import, either of the subject or questions, or deeming it their duty to uphold their Champion right or wrong — either way promising them forty acres and a mule — yelled approval to his answers. When such great and far-reaching questions come before a Popular Assembly, they are apt to decide according rather to their desire, than by their judgment. When the Greeks, in the fulness of their admiration, had given Aris- tides the name of Just, and the question of his banishment from Athens subsequently rose — moving among them, in the popular assembly, and seeing that the tide of their approval had turned, he asked some of them why they wished to banish Aristides, and what had he done to deserve such ignominy ? they promptly answered, “Nothing; but they were weary of hearing him called the Just.” The poor, however deservedly poor, are weary of hearing their neighbor called rich, however honorably or laboriously he has won the wealth. Thus much for Henry George. Haj^pily the World is large, and ofttimes before such men can permeate it with their noxious or shallow thoughts, they thrash themselves out, like the cracker of a whip ; George is essentially both a humbug and a demagogue. When he found that the questions asked had left him worsted — which he, doubtless, felt more than many of his friends — he, without any rele- vancy, told the Story of some poor Irish peasant driven out by a greedy, heartless. Landlord, and of a brutal Slave-owner maltreating MELBOURNE. 239 his own property, as if sentimentality has anything to do with Political Economy, or Reason or Logic would condescend to argue from the use to the abuse — especially as when he began, he promised to stick to the pure question of the Principles involved, which promise he fulfilled, till he felt his discomfiture and his need of sympathy, more than of approval. Same City and Hotel, Saturday, 3Iarch 29, 1890. After Breakfast, I walked through the Treasury Gardens, and then down Collins Street, one of the chief thoroughfares of the City ; on my way I bought myself a new Hat, tlie travel through New Zea- land and Tasmania having batterfanged mine out of shape and color. I, also, bought a Map of Melbourne to facilitate my investigations. I will send, at the time I mail this Letter, one each to you, and Charles, and Margaret : it will aid you in following my movements, and, also, prevent, on my part, much circumlocution. It is a City of four or five hundred thousand people they claim, and needs a chart to help the traveller and his Leader. This Hotel, you observe, is on the Northeast of the Melbourne District, between Collins and Bourke — pronounced Burke — Street. Its situation is admirable. It fronts upon the Treasury Gardens, Spring Street running between. Across that street and fronting on it stands, on the left of the Hotel, the new Parliament House, a large and ornate structure with Doric Columns built of a buff stone indig- enous to the Grampian Mountains in the Western part of Victoria; on the right are the Treasury and other Public Buildings, standing among the Gardens. All these are in view whilst I write from my lofty window in the fourth story, beyond stretching a large part of the City. The Hotel faces Northeast. On its right, running South westward, is Collins Street ; and at its head and looking down it is the Treasury Building, built of a similar stone with that of the Parliament House. The other Public Buildings are in its rear — of Brick, stuccoed ; the Gardens extend around. Near by the Treasury Building, in an open paved space, is an excellent Colossal Bronze Figure of General Gor- don in his undress military jacket, standing upon a granite base — on the four faces of which are Alto-Relievos in Bronze, telling the story of his life. 240 LETTER NO. 13. I strolled along Collins Street, looking at the Buildings, the people, and into the shop windows. Near the farther end, probably a mile distant, I observed the spread Eagle of the Great Republic, announc- ing the Consulate, in the Federal Coffee Palace, and I determined to go in and see Mr. James P. Lesesne, of South Carolina, the gentle- man who fills the Post. He was out ; but I waited his return — and when he did, received from him a cordial greeting. He said Mr. Halliday had told him a few days ago of my presence in the Colo- nies, and he was happy to see me and render any service in his power. I responded that I had simply called to pay my respects. He was appointed by Cleveland, and is holding over, waiting. He is a pleasant, gentlemanly person, and we had an agreeable talk of half an hour or more. I may see him again, which he urged me to do, that he might aid me in any way during my visit to the Country. Whilst at Lunch, Mr. Stuart Campbell, with whom I met fre- quently in New Zealand, and of whom, may be, I have spoken — the same whom Lady Mannering mentioned in the Hot Lake Region of the North Island — came and sat with me. We agreed to spend the afternoon together in seeing some of the sights of Melbourne. We went to the Exhibition Building, located in the Carlton Gar- dens — the remnant of the great International Exposition that was held here a year or two ago, and which, like our own at Philadelphia, was a material success and a financial failure. The Building is not far, you observe, from the Hotel, at the North end of Spring Street, and is surrounded by large Grounds, still kept improved by trees and highly cultivated Gardens of shrubs and flowers. It contains some things left over from the Show, that were on Exhibition, and now only valuable as advertisements for the Exhibitors — among them a few Paintings, Engravings, Crayons and Daguerreotypes. But the chief object of intei’est now is the Aquarium, one of the finest I ever saw, in the number and variety and excellent condition of its con- tents. The place itself is filled up with Grottoes, and Caves, and Pools, and Tanks, seemingly regardless of expense ; and the Seals, and Fish, and Turtles, and Eels, and other watery creatures appear to have a good time, and to be as joyous as those they left behind in their aqueous habitat. Satisfied here we, after a short walk, took a Cable Tram on Eliza- beth Street, and went to visit the Zoological Gardens, a couple of miles distant from the Exhibition Building in the same section of the MELBOURNE. 241 City. Here I will stop to say, that Melbourne boasts the finest Cable Street Car System in the World, both in the extended area of its operations and the perfection of its work, not even excepting San Francisco. I will not dispute its claim ; certainly from its Lines traced upon the map, and the ease and safety and order with which they speed along the streets, nothing better could be desired. The Gardens, seated in and surrounded by the Royal Park, like the Aquarium, is well done. The space they occupy is ornamented handsomely, and the creatures they contain are well housed and cared for. They are numerous and varied, and in the main sleek and fat. The Bengal Tiger and the African Lion are magnificent specimens, and could not look more saucy, though they could more dangerous, in their native wilds. They have a fine Elephant, which little children were permitted to ride around a ring. The keeper, from an elevated platform, would fill the Howdah with eight or ten girls and boys, that the sagacious ci’eature understood he was to carry safely, which he carefully did, equally to his gratification and to theirs. We returned by the same route. In the Evening I walked to Meuzie’s Hotel to call upon my Friends, Lady Mackelwraith and the Misses Halliday. I found Lady M. just leaving the Hotel for the Opera. She expressed her great regrets, and invited me the next day to Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner, all of which, in their order, I declined. She said Sir Thomas had been confined to his Room and Bed ever since he had been in the City, and urged me to go up and see him. This I also declined ; but his servant informing him I was below, came with an urgent message that Sir Thomas wanted to see me in his Room. I went and found him quite sick with the Grippe, and complaining and making a quantity of fuss, just like you have heard from many of your patients at his Antipodes. I then called upon the Misses Halliday, and received from them an equally cordial greeting. Their Father had only spent a day in Melbourne, and then gone on to his Country Home. They will probably spend a week in town. We had a pleasant chat, and telling them I would try to call again, we parted. I inquired for Mr. and Mrs. Robertson, but they were at their home, three or four miles out, and I fear I will not have time to see them any more. Menzie’s Hotel is a mile or more away, at the other end of Bourke Street, which runs parallel, you will find upon the map, to Collins, 16 242 LETTER NO. 13. and is a street of equally solid import. On my walk I stopped at the Eastern Market Place, and being Saturday Evening, I found it thronged with commodities and people. It has two floors, one above and one below — one descending, the other ascending from the street; and I spent some time with my usual interest in looking at the people and the articles, natural and artificial, in the Booths and Stalls; both were creditable to Melbourne. I intended to have returned upon the Tram, but interested, I strolled on, threading my way for probably near a mile, through throngs of people, well dressed and well behaved, come out to see each other, and the shops, and to chat and while an hour or two, on the last work day of the week. I never saw, under similar circumstances, in any City, a bigger or better ordered crowd. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, March 30, J 890. This Morning I spent in my Room, writing some of the foregoing pages and enjoying communion with you all — more absorbingly de- lightful than anything Antipodean Melbourne has within her borders. Campbell and I lunched together and then walked out to see some- thing new. Strolling on Spring Street Southeastward, with the Treasury Gardens on our left, we came to Flinders, running parallel to Collins. This we pedestrianized. BeyoJid it, on our left, an open ragged space, occupied on lower ground by the Railroad Station and Shops ; beyond that the extensive area called the Domain, embracing the Governor’s Mansion — an imposing yellow Edifice, with a central Tower, surrounded by spacious Grounds, bounded in turn by the Public or Botanic Gardens — all on an elevated area, and conspicuous in the distance for its spread of forest and foliage. Opposite the Railway Station on Flinders is the unfinished Cathe- dral of the English Church, a building of the same stone apparently as the Parliament and Tx’easury Houses — to be an imposing and costly affair — and just in front, across the street, flows the Yarra River, winding its dirty, sluggish, narrow current through the City; here spanned by a three-arch, handsome Iron Bridge, called Princes — the only one worth mentioning in Melbourne. We took the Cable Tram at this Bridge and rode to the main entrance of the Botanical Gardens, beyond the Governor’s House and Grounds, and thence Avalked through it — sometimes a waste, MELBOURNE. 243 sometimes elaborately adorned with trees and shrubs and flowers ; resting now and then to observe the people of every age and sex thronging the premises this Sunday afternoon. The Gardens are attractive now ; they will be more so with every coming year, should the Melbourne people preserve that pride which they seem to cherish for their City. Continuing our walk, we traversed pretty much the entire Grounds, passing the Lake, a pond of muddy water, the best the watersheds afford, and the Governor’s preserves, we came to the Yarra, flowing with equally muddy current through the Gardens, and followed it to the Princes’ Bridge, meeting hundreds, walking like ourselves towards the Sunday-Afteruoon Pleasui’e-Fields of Melbourne. Crossing the Bridge, we walked up Swanston Street to Collins, and thence, through the Treasiuy, sought the Fitzroy Gardens, and wandered there ad libitum ; in the conjoined growth and size of their trees, and their solid merit as a Park, altogether the most admirable exhibit Melbourne can show the stranger. And then returning to our Hotel we finished the day. Soon after Dinner, I went to Bed, and found it welcome enough after my long tramp, and sleep and I had an “ awful lovely ” time together. Same City and Hotel, Monday, March 31, 1890. Campbell and I walked out after Breakfast to see some more of Melbourne’s curiosities. Obliquely across Spring Street from this Hotel, you observe, stands the Parliament House, of which I have already spoken. W e went there. Portions of it have been built for many years ; they have added to it, from time to time, to meet the Colony’s needs, and are at present engaged in its extension and adorn- ment — among other things, laying a handsome Mosaic pavement to the Portico in front, and building Offices and Committee Rooms within its area. We were met in the main entrance by one of the attendants, and courteously I’eceived, aud shown through the Building. The main Halls are finished, and, also, the Halls of the two Houses — the Assembly and Council — both in this Colony, Victoria, elective, and corresponding to our House of Representatives and Senate. They are all handsomely finished — but with stucco, not with marble — and 244 LETTER NO. IS. the Chambers are neatly appointed and furnished — with benches for the members, and not with chairs and desks, like ours. In the main Hall stands a White Marble figure of Queen Victoria, taken in her younger days, 'and showing that her Majesty has not yet been dethroned in her far-off and ambitious Colony. In the Library, hang, on one column, the Engraved Figure of George Washington ; on another, near by, a copy of the Declaration of our Independence, engrossed on Parchment — the first telling the History of Royal Rule controlling the Colonies from its birth ; the two last heralding the time — perchance not far distant — when she will step out into her place among the Family of Nations. Our attendant was a young man, and we spoke of these things with caution : but I gathered knowledge whilst we talked. The enclosure embraces an area set with grass and flowers, and a Tennis Court, where the members may exercise themselves in their National Game and get rid of the fumes of angry disputation. Not far off, and upon higher ground, stands the yet unfinished Roman Catholic Cathedral, and in full view from my window whilst I write, built of a dark, nearly black, stone, and promising to be, when finished, an imposing structure. We then walked to the Law Courts Building, some distance further, on the corner of Linsdale, William and Little Bourke Streets — buy- ing as we went along a piece for the Set, and trying to come across a Curio Shop, where I could get a Boomerang ; but without success. The Law Building is an immense quadrangular affair, enclosing a sepa- rate Structure, with a conspicuous Dome, visible far out on the water upon approaching the City; and one of the most conspicuous within this contains the Library, said to be very fine. The Quadrangular Edifice embraces the various Courts and Offices and Chambers belong- ing to the administration of Justice, and no Country in the World has made a more lavish appropriation for that Department of its Government. We visited one of the Courts in Session. One of the Judges was reading an Opinion ; which in his low tones I could not hear. They were all clad in Black Gown and White Wig ; as were the Lawyers who occupied the Bar — a respectable-looking, well-behaved set alto- gether. We walked thence to the Public Library on Swanston Street — an imposing Edifice, with Corinthian Columns, the steps guarded on MELBOURNE. 245 either side by Colossal Bronze Lions, resting quietly with their heads between their paws, with more of dignity than fierceness. A Bronze Figure of Sir Edward Barry, once a Judge, adorns the pavement in front. In the same Building are Picture and Art Galleries, all of which we visited. The Library seems to be very extensive ; the Picture and Art Collections contain some worthy works. But I have not time to stop to specify them. The comment upon the whole might be, that a young people could hardly be expected to have that, which, without age, can scarce be said to exist. I received a formal notice, a day or two after my arrival, of my election an Honorary Member of the Australian Club, and a tender of its privileges. But you know my views with regal’d to the accept- ance of these courtesies. Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, April 1, 1890. My Friend Campbell had to prepare to-day for his long voyage homeward, via the Suez Canal, and could not walk with me. I went alone : this time finishing up the sights of Melbourne. I walked down Collins to Elizabeth Street, looking in the Curio Shops, of which there seem to be very few in the City, for a Boome- rang. Strange to say, I could not find one. I want it as the most characteristic thing of the Aborigines in Australia. They are thought to be the lowest of all Savage Races found by the white man in his World-around Voyages; yet the Boomerang, his invention, is one of the strangest and most complex in its scientific construction of all weapons, though apparently the simplest — baffling the profoundest of them to discover by what composition of forces it is made to per- form its paradoxical evolutions, turning with curious eccentricity in the air and falling at the thrower’s feet. I hope I will come across one whilst in the Country, and I will take it home with me. Nor have I seen a single Native on the streets. Civilization'has driven them into the less inhabited areas. There they can pass more quietly out of this weary World. I also stopped in at Thomas Cook & Sous, Tourist Agents, to inquire with regard to my voyage Westward, when I have done with Australia, and to purchase Tickets for some short Tours around Mel- bourne before proceeding Northward to Sydney. I did not go to the 246 LETTER NO. 12. Bank, knowing no Vessel had come from San Francisco since I reached here. Then taking the Cable Tram on Elizabeth Street, the same which carried us the other day to the Zoological Gardens in the Royal Park, I visited the Cemetery and University Grounds. You observe them just opposite to that Park on the Map I sent you — all together cov- ering an area of many acres. Dismounting, I walked the length of Princes Park, bounding the Cemetery on the West : only set with a few trees and grass, and then entered the Cemetery on the McPherson Street front. In my walk I met with a good-looking, sensible man of fifty or sixty, who, in our talk, I learned was an Editor. We strolled a good while together, talking of the Colonies and their future. I did not tell him who I was, but expressed freely my opinions. He thinks the question of severance from the Empire only one of time ; not that he wants it, but that the forces abroad in the Land will compel it — the fruit fast ripening for the fall ; the young native-born Australian, with more enthusiasm than judgment, talks and looks for Nation- ality ; and much more upon the subject, that I have not time to put down. Indeed I can put but a small part of the talks I have on these pages. I will give you the result in the end. The Cemetery is a comparatively new one, yet is filling fast ; another, more distant, is preparing. The City is crowding around this, and soon it will be closed, save for those families who have Lots, and some of whose members already rest there. Nothing of much import is here, save the number of its Dead. Melbourne has not a good reputation for health. It has no Sewer System ; the drainage is purely surface, and notifies you loudly towards the Even- ing sometimes — hence it fills its graveyard rapidly. It is too lai’ge for me to gather anything, in my hurry, with regard to longevity in the City from the Record. I have not time ; but I don’t think the Monuments speak in any great volume of its wealth. There are a few handsome ones — very few in proportion to the number; a few striking ; one especially, the Angel of Death — of white marble, colossal, with face turned down upon the Grave in meditative mood, and wings half folded in mingled firmness and sorrow — beautifully conceived and executed. Walking on, I passed out of the Cemetery into the University and College Grounds — embracing, together with the University, Queen’s, MELBOURNE. 247 Ormond, Trinity and the Roman Catholic Colleges ; the Ormond a recent endowment by a wealthy individual of that name, and espe- cially striking. There is a bond of unity and harmony of action between them and the University, I hear : the latter finishing ofP the product of the former. Connected with the University is the National Museum, an admirable Natural History Collection. But I had only time to look at — have not time now to tell you anything of it. I met a Clergyman from Scotland, who told me that some, maybe all, of these Colleges were mixed, Male and Female. I told him I did not like it. He expressed surprise, asking if I would not give women the benefit of High Education. I told him by all means, but not in the same sphere. Woman was intended for man’s help-meet, not his comjietitor or rival. Her’s was the frailer nature physically, but far the more heroic morally ; not to be the leader of armies or in statesmanship, but to be the mother and educator of the heroes who were. In this sphere she ever had been and could be all powerful, and had instilled the aroma of her gentle yet powerful virtues into every fibre of the framework of Society. Taken from it and thrown among those she had thus made great, she would destroy their hero- ism and lose her own. But he said, would not I give them evexy chance of winning a livelihood? Not, I said, if thereby they I’obbed the stei'ner sex of any chance for theix’s. Maxx’s dxxty is to take care of the wife and mother of his childx’en, whilst she is fitting them for the stex'n and lofty duties of Life’s noblest works. Man’s sphere, if invaded by her, would not only prevent this, but would lower man’s dignity of chai’actex’, whilst it equally destroyed her own. Our Civili- zation is too Material anyhow ,* let us preserve all of the heroic in it that we can. To this my friend coxxld make no answer. Who can? I had made engagements to take an Excursion iixto the Country for a day or two. But I learned that the Banks would be closed on Friday, Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday — Easter Holidays — and I was compelled to postpone it, that I might to-moxTOw go to xniue and inquire for xxxail and dx’aw some xnoney. Thus, you see, I lose another day, uxxexpectedly. Same City and Hotei., Wednesday, April 2, 1890. No Letters or Papers for me in Bank. I hardly expected any. Only oixce a month can they reach me. My Schedule of the Steamer’s 248 LETTER NO. 13. Run makes April 3, to-morrow, the date of her arrival in Sydney. But whilst they will reach here on the fifth or sixth, the Bank will be closed, and they will have to re-traverse their steps, and follow me back to Sydney. I left a memorandum to thus forward them on their arrival here. I drew, also, the money I shall need. I have run through the bundle of Newspapers you sent. Of Governor McKinney’s Message on the State Debt, I have nothing to say. I read Ingalls’ speech in the Senate on the Negro Question. An- other “Fire Bell in the dead hour of the night.” How like the ante bellum tirades it sounds, full of shallowness and hate — intensified by the castigation Blackburn gave him. But he differs in this from the haters of that day : they were ignorant of the Negro, and thought in some instances, honestly, that he could be lifted up by Education into equality and citizenship. Ingalls professes to understand him and the profound issues of the Race Question, pronouncing his ineradicable difference from the white man and the impossibility of their mixing, without the production of a monster; yet in the same breath insists that the impossible shall be done, and the ruin consummated, because an amendment to the Constitution requires it. Fiat malum, ruat coelum. No more shallow, wicked utterance was ever made upon the floor of our Congress ; it far surpasses in frightful import anything that ever proceeded from the fiercest enemy of the South before the War ; and the applause he received, forecasts trouble unspeakable, unless wiser counsels prevail, than he is either able or willing to advise. Who can foretell the dangers which threaten our future? The Confederate War will wane into nothingness before the monstrous issues of that strife, should a battle be joined. IjAkes’ Entrance, Gippsland, Victoria, Merrangbaur or Roadknight’s Hotel, Thursday, 4^pril 3, 1890. I am sure you have not the slightest idea where I am, and must, therefore, tell you. Southeast of Melbourne lies Gippsland — the G pronounced hard, as in Gibson. It is famous for its I^ake Scenery, and I resolved to spend a day or two in visiting it. Not expecting to be gone long, I MELBOURNE TO GIPPSLAND. 249 retained my Room at the Grand Hotel, leaving my Trunk there. I bade my late companion, Campbell, Good Bye ! — he leaving to-day for England in a Peninsular and Oriental Steamer via Ceylon and the Suez Canal; and thus I am travelling alone again. I was up early, had my Breakfast, and at ten minutes of eight boarded the Gippsland train at the Princes Street Station. This is the same Station I told you of on our stroll to the Botanic Gai’dens. The run is almost due East to Sale, one hundred and thirty-seven miles. The Country rises from Melbourne, at one point attaining an elevation, just before reaching Sale, of four hundred and forty-four feet ; though it rises and falls the whole distance — at Sale being only thirty-two feet. The City suburbs extend for some miles, built up quite solidly in some places, and then scattered houses, showing the proximity of a great centre of population. For more than fifty miles areas had been cleared of forests and habitations of greater or less import, sometimes with small lots enclosed, but with scant evidence of cultivation anywhere. Most of the land was in grass, but poor pasturage — the Cattle looking poorly as the Land. The latter half of our journey was principally in forests — here you know called Bush, but mainly of the Eucalyptus Species, and not good for build- ing Lumber; or of dead trees standing stai’k, without leaves or bark, not an attractive scene. The fields, however, were enclosed with good fencing : post and rail, mortised, generally with three rails, wire between. Here and there were a few short reaches of Hawthorn Hedge. There were a good many towns and villages, but what sup- ported them I am at a loss to say ; for the whole country was poor and poorly cultivated ; maybe built under the hope of a prospective Boom, which fever — destructive and infectious — prevails here too. I sat next an old man, with whom I had much talk. He came here many years ago, and was at one time a Locomotive Driver, and is now a Machinist in the Shops of this Company, on his way to a town called Warragul, where he had built a Cottage for his four Daughters ; and when he stopped to get off, pointed it out to me with much pride. He was well dressed and behaved, and altogether a worthy, sensible man ; and I gathered much information from him about Melbourne, Victoria, and Australia, in not a few portions of which he had lived during his residence in the Antipodes. The Cars were crowded, and a long train. The Station at the hour of departure was quite a spectacle — the trains coming and going, and 250 LETTER NO. 13. the throngs rushing hither and thither, though the Easter Holidays do not begin till to-morrow. Wherever I have been in Australasia you have observed how crowds prevail, upon all the conveyances, whether by land or water. On our arrival at Sale, Coaches conveyed us to the small Steamer, a mile, probably, distant, on the Latrobe River, a narrow stream of about the import of the Yarra, which I have spoken of as flowing through Melbourne. An eleven miles run brought us to Lake Wel- lington ; likewise eleven miles across; then into the McClennan River, similar to the Latrobe, ten miles; then Lake Victoria, nine- teen miles ; then Black Lake, eight miles ; and then eleven to the Lakes’ Entrance, where, by a narrow Strait, they and the Ocean join their waters — a total of seventy miles from Sale. The region through which we passed, along the Rivers and across the Lakes, was interesting, not from any special beauty or grandeur, but rather from the uncultivated and wild rusticity of the whole scene. The Bush has not yet been cut away or the Marshes drained, and Birds abounded, especially the Marsh Hen — rather smaller than one of your Game Chickens, with brilliant blue-black plumage, long legs and red bill, said to be flue eating ; and scores of Black Swans, either floating on the Lakes or ploughing their way through the air, marshalled in long file. The point where our Steamer landed is called Lakes’ Entrance because, as I have said, hei’e the Lakes join their waters to the Ocean through a narrow Inlet. There are several Hotels around. I took the Coach to this, haj)-hazard, distant a mile or thereabouts. I found I had not made a mistake. I had a good Supper and Bed, and the site is a fine one. The morning promised badly ; clouds overspread the sky, but they disappeared during the day, and it was all one could wish — when the Sun went down, the almost full Moon lighting us in the end. From the Hotel, on an elevation, the Ocean roared hoarsely upon the beach, and from its broad bosom threw back the Moon’s rays with silver sheen. Merrangbaur means, in the native tongue. Lyre Bird, and the Hotel is thus called because, when it was built years ago by the Proprietor’s Father, an old man still living, that beautiful creature inhabited the locality. The advent of Civilization has driven it farther into the wild. GIPPSLAND. 251 Same Place and Hotel, Friday, April 4, 1890. I intended to have returned to Melbourne to-day by a different route over part of the journey, but upon looking out of my window over the open Sea, and then getting up and seeing the charming weather that greeted me, I determined to remain over till to-moiTOw and enjoy the quiet and pure air — more pleasant and healthful than that of Melbourne. The Hotel, too, is neat and the service good. I am not sorry I remained. I have had many agreeable and prof- itable talks with the guests. I have wandered through the Bush and noticed the Vegetation, composed of few species — the Fern, the Tea Tree, and various kinds of the Eucalypti and the Wattle, and observed the Birds and their plumage and songs, of numerous sizes and varieties. I sat upon the Portico of the Hotel, or upon the grass in front, and watched the Ocean and the Sky — both equally blue and equally calm ; the former without a billow, the latter without a cloud. Along the front, bordered by the Surf, is a portion — some miles of a Beach extending for more than ninety, broken by the narrow rift which unites the waters of the Lakes and the Ocean. The air was full of tonic, and it was a luxiu’y to breathe it. And here I ought to say that if the perfect weather I have enjoyed since I have been in Australia be any evidence of its climate, I have chosen the proper season for my visit. Nothing has occurred in it to impede my travel for a day ; and though Melbourne in her Summer time afflicts her people with torrid heat, I have not felt it in this her first months of Autumn. The Centre of Australia, heated by the Tropic fires, sends down upon Victoria blasts as from a furnace, and the thermometer rising to often many degrees over one hundred in the shade, the people for days suffer to suffocation. But now that the Sun has gone to you beyond the Line, the weather is delicious. I have been for- tunate, you remember, in all my Tours, to fit them to the Seasons of the climes I visit. Anxious to see the Natives of Australia, none of whom I have yet come across, I have determined to stay another day. There is a Missionary Station at Nowa Nowa on Lake Tyers, another body of water similar to those I have written of, six or seven miles to the East, and belonging to the Line of the Gippsland Lakes, thus singu- 252 LETTER NO. 13. larly ranged along the Ocean’s Shore. The Proprietor says he will send me in a conveyance to the Lake, which I can cross in a Row Boat to the Station, where he knows I will meet with the Missionary in charge — Mr. Bulmer — a genial, kindly man, who will take great pleasure in showing me the Natives collected there — called the Blacks in the nomenclature of the Country — and his work among them. This is an opportunity I must not lose ; I may not have such another during my travels in Australia, and it would not do to come here and not see descendants of the Aborigines, by common consent, the lowest of the Human Species, who have been yet found by travellers upon the face of the Earth. Same Place and Hotel, . Saturday, Api’il 5, 1890. This has been to me the most interesting day I have spent in Aus- tralia — visiting the Missionary Station for the Aborigines, established at Nowa Nowa, on Lake Tyers. The day, too, has been beautiful and bright. I was not alone; my going induced others. Mr. and Mrs. Ash- burner, with whom I met here and have had much talk, went with me, though they had been there before. He is a highly respectable and apparently thrifty Ironmonger from Melbourne: came to the Colony from Liverpool in his early days, and has grown up with it. Three young Gentlemen and two young Ladies, also, went, whose names I do not know. The Landlady fixed up a nice Lunch for the day’s outing ; and we started in a Coach at ten o’clock. The ride to Lake Tyers is about six miles, through the Forest, or Bush, standing almost in its primitive state. Mr. Ashburner, familiar with the trees, called my attention to them and gave me their varieties and names. The bulk of them were species of the Eucalyptus — of which there are great numbers — the Iron Bark and the Stringy Bark being two of them. Besides the Eucalyptus, there is the Wattle, the bark used for tanning ; the Tea Tree, and the native Cherry Tree, whose strange fruit bears its stone upon the outside — ^just as many of those I have mentioned shed their bark instead of their leaves, in true Australian-Antipodean Style. This Cherry Tree is nothing whatever similar to ours. It is a comely, well-shaped piece of vegetation, with foliage much like the Cedar, LAKE TYERS— ABORIGINES. 253 but of a more lace-like, finer texture. Mr. Ashburner says the fruit is rather larger than a pea, — green when immature. Cherry-red when ripe, and of excellent taste and flavor. Dismounting at the Lake, the young men rowed themselves across in one Boat, tlie Driver rowed the rest of ns across in another. The Lake occupies a similar position to the Ocean as the other Lakes of the chain, sepai’ated by a portion of the ninety mile Reach. This is silted up now, and the broad Ocean is visible over the Beach now forming here, a bar withont an outlet ; which, confining the Lake, gives it the mossy appearance in many places of stagnant water. But the capricious Sea, now and then, sweeps an opening through the Bar and puts things right again. The Shores rise from the Lake, covered with primeval forests, save where the Missionary Station stands, which is set in grass and the houses ranged around a quadrangle, and mainly hid among planted trees, the little Church Spire, lifting itself, on higher ground, above them — altogether a pretty scene. The row was a mile or two, but soon made by our sturdy Boat- man. We walked up to the Station, probably half a mile from the Landing. The houses enclosing the quadi’angle were simple, bnt comfortable frame one-story Buildings with Porch in front, facing each other several hundred yards apart ; the lower side open, the upper side occupied by the one-story, but larger Cottage of the Mis- sionary; and with its Vines, and Foliage, and Flowers presenting quite an English rustic look. On its left, stood the Church and School House, in good repair. Lounging about, w'ere men, wmmen, and children — well dressed, but worthless-looking in the extreme. Some were coal black, some rather lighter, some nearly white, the half-breeds. Several of them were typical specimens ; Charley, a full-bred Australian, was an im- portant character. He was probably forty years old, about five feet six, and slender, his hair jet-black and straight and thick, growing almost to his equally thick and jet-black brows, which hung over his deep-set eyes. His face was covered with a heavy black beard. Notwithstanding all this blackness, he had an amiable look and bearing, and spoke English very well. An old woman crossed the quadrangle ; he spoke to her ; in response, she mumbled something we could not understand, and hustled on — a filthy, ugly, repulsive object. Off from the Quadrangle, in a recess of the Enclosure, we saw a blanket sti'etched over a ridge pole; and on going to it, we 254 LETTER NO. IS. found another old woman, much similar in look to the one of which I have spoken, occupying the opening and quite filling up the space the narrow blanket covered. In front of her was a pile of live coals, on which she was broiling a chunk of meat. She mumbled some- thing we could not understand, in response to our salutation, and continued her attention to her meat. Under a ti’ee in front, a few feet away, was a half-breed woman, very light, nursing a little boy, still lighter, who had sprained his ankle. They were in appearance and manner an improvement on the old woman ; but at best, feeble and worthless. I gave the boy some money ; for which his Mother ordered him to thank me. By this time our Coachman came and told us the Missionary was working in his Garden behind his Residence, and we would find him there. We went, and seeing us coming, he advanced to meet us, and gave us a cordial welcome. I went ahead of the others and, greeting, told him who I was, and he expressed great pleasure in seeing me, saying he knew me by reputation, being a great reader of American Magazines and Papers. He attached himself to me, and we talked during our whole stay. He had read the History of our Confederate War, and knew all the prominent men on both sides, like my Cap- tain friend of the San Bias from Panama to San Fi-ancisco, and the main Battles and their result, and had a great admiration for our Southern Chieftains and People. You may infer, our talk was pleasant to me. He took United States Magazines and Papers, as he had said, and had read the War Papers which have been publish- ing in them for some years. I have met nobody abroad who had a more thorough knowledge of the status of our affairs. But of more interest still was his talk about his Wards — the Aus- tralian Aborigines. He was a sensible man, and had studied their Race characteristics thoroughly ; and freely said that their elevation was impossible ; they could not take on the thoughts and modes of our Civilization, nor the virtues of our Religion ; their Brain and Moral powers were too feeble for the one or the other. The Mission is of the Established Church of England, aided by Governmental contribution from the Colonies. All efforts to inflict learning upon them was futile ; it crushed out both their spirit and their life. His long intercourse with these people, now nearly thirty years, had taught him the problem, with regard to which it seems no one can be in- formed without living among Races or making the subject of Eth- ABORIGINES— THE BOOMERANG. 255 nology a study — that God made Race Lines, which cannot be elimi- nated by man’s ignorance or device. He understands perfectly our own Race Problem, and its tremendous import, and profoundly sym- pathizes with us in its solution, knowing full well that ignorance of its Philosophy is equally dangerous with malice in its management. He says he has many visitors, men and women of culture and learning, who talk all sorts of nonsense about lifting up these poor degraded creatures, who have to be re-made before they can be reformed. Bishops, and Doctors of Divinity, and Politicians, and eminent Lawyers, talk what seems to him childish inanity about the elevation of these Aborigines, because they do not know anything about the difference — fundamental and radical — between the Savage and the Civilized man ; between the rudimentary and the developed organ- ism. He said my talk afforded him infinite pleasure, seeing that my thoughts had been turned into channels along which his had worked for more than thirty years, and the want of knowledge of which had, under the guise of Philanthropy, filled the world with misery and crime, and he feared, had not yet finished its hideous career. I told him I wanted to see more of his people, and especially to see one of them throw the Boomerang. He cheerfully said he would call them out and have one of the old men perform the feat for me; the younger ones appeared to have lost the art. An old thoroughbred Native, called Billy, ugly like his brothers and sistei’s of the full blood, came with a newly made Boomerang — a piece of flat wood with sharpened edges, curved at an angle of about forty-five degrees, which he had just finished, and with an easy yet forceful swing of the hand, and with an upward dash, sent the thing whirling through the air, accelei’atiug its speed with its progress, until reaching an elevation of several hundred feet, it halted like a bird in its flight, and fluttering hesitatingly, turned upon its track, and coming back with almost equal velocity, fell at the thrower’s feet. It was a bril- liant performance by the crooked stick, in the combined mystery of force and motion. I bought it from the black Scientist, and will take it home to put among our curiosities of Travel. The admiration and wonder we expressed did not have the slightest effect upon the Native ; the nil admirari was fully developed in him as in our American Indian. He took the money and walked quietly away, and we never saw any more of him, though I told him I wanted also a Throwing Stick, for which I would pay. This instru- 256 LETTER NO. IS. ment is likewise peculiar to the Australian Native, being simply a straight stick with which, by a notch in the end, they use its leverage for projecting their Spear with greater velocity and momentum. Billy had not energy enough to get me one. Charley overtook me on the walk to the Boat with one, which I will take home with the Boomerang. These are the only things peculiar to these miserably low and undeveloped people : and yet strangely peculiar. Our Friend walked with us to the Boat, and we bade him Good Bye ! with many thanks for his courtesy and kindness, which had rendered our visit both pleasant and profitable. I gave him an invi- tation to come and see me should he ever visit the United States. He is a genial, kindly man, and I think well fitted for his place, in taking care of these people, bound in the irreversible bonds of a fate which, for their blessing, he happily understands — and perchance, for the white man, too. We rowed back to the hither side of the Lake, and with improvised seats and tables from logs and old boards, enjoyed the Lunch the Landlady had prepared for ns — boiling our Tea at a neighboring house. Resting here for a while, we drove back in the cool of the Even- ing through the Forest. This morning, the Bell-Birds filled the Woods near the house with a chorus of chimes. This afternoon hun- dreds of them thronged the trees, and gave us the benefit of their music, which I never appreciated fully before. You remember, I made their acquaintance at Mount Cook ; but there the Forests were smaller and their number less. Now, their notes, echoing seemingly from myriad voices, and sounding not unlike the tinkling of tiny Bells, made it no wonder, that the early Navigators, hearing them across the water, gave them the mellifluous name they now bear. The Proprietor tells me the lovely Lyre Bird lives in hollows of the Mountains near by; and the Laughing Jackass Bird. Last night, the young men killed a Bandicoot, a curious creature, about treble the size of a Norway Bat, with a head the blended likeness of a Pig and an Anteater, its snout extending far beyond its lower jaw, — the tail of a Rat, the pouch and feet of a Kangaroo. A number of Wallabys appeared upon the Lawn about the House last night — it is a miniature Kangaroo — and three or four flying Foxes or Vampires were killed. I told you about them when in Java : the head of a Fox and the leather wings of a Bat — several feet across — an ugly BAIRNSDALE. 257 monster — the Landlady says most pestiferous in her Orchard, eating and knocking down her fruit ; she had rather see his dead body than his living on the wing, when night falls. You see, I am in the region of sweet and beautiful, or ugly and curious things. Bairnsdale, Gippslakd, The Gleb Hotel, Sunday, April 6, 1890. Some of the young men at the Merraugbaur Hotel, together with some from another in the vicinity, chartered a small Steamer this morning and went out through Lakes Entrance to the Sea, and had a fishing bout. We could see them in their progress from our high position — both going out and coming in. I spent the Sunday Morning quietly enjoying the air and scene, and talking to the people gathered at the Hotel. Looking at and commenting on my Boomerang, I told some Englishmen that, should we ever engage in War with Great Britain again, we would invent a Boomerang propelled by Steam or Electricity, and shoot them in the rear. If that did not finish them, we would jetty the Gulf Stream and freeze them out ; that we were quite impatient anyhow at their ingratitude : we had for generations collected the hot Equatorial Waters in our Gulf of Mexico, and sent them across the World and made their Islands fit to be inhabited, and they had never passed a Resolution of Thanks, nor even alluded in their National Councils to the everlasting debt they owed us for our benefaction. I talked with them, too, old and young, about Australian matters, gathering knowledge. After Lunch, one o’clock, the Proprietor sent me by Carriage to the Lake, and thence across in a Row Boat to the Steamer bound to Bairnsdale. Mr. and Mrs. Ashbnrner and the two young Ladies who were with us at the Mission, and a young man and his wife, the former of whom was from New York, but whose name I have for- gotten, went with me to the Steamer to see me off and wish me a good voyage, which was very considerate. My route back to Melbourne was ditferent from that in coming. I passed into Lake King and thence up the Mitchell River, on which Bairnsdale is located, almost due North instead of West, the way I came — a distance from Lakes Entrance of twenty-eight miles. Lake 17 258 LETTER NO. IS. King, also, and Mitchell River, are more interesting than the Lakes and Rivers I traversed the other day. Lake King, ten miles across, is more attractive by virtue of its higher shores and more numerous habitations. Mitchell River, more curious than the Latrobe and the McClennan, flowing in a narrow channel, its banks made in years by the River itself right out for some miles into the Lake, and seeming to flow above its waters, as the Mississippi flows between its Levees above the country it traverses. There were some handsome residences when we came near Bairnsdale, and numerous Hop Gardens and their Curing Houses, and the Country and people looked well-to-do. In coming to the Landing in our Carriage, we met our friends returning from their Ocean sport, laden with their spoils. They had caught many fish of the Snapper species, a famous one for the table. Two of them were trudging along with four or five on a pole between them — a heavy load — and jubilant as Joshua’s men bearing the Grape trophies from the Promised Land. My friends parted from me at the Steamer with many kind words for good fortune on my Tour, and I was alone again. The Steamer reached Bairnsdale at six o’clock, and I found at the Club Hotel a Room awaiting me — telephoned for by my Proprietor, Mr. Roadknight — and I took a cup of Tea and a slice of Bread, and was soon thereafter fast asleep. At a place of Resort called Scarborough, on Lake King, I saw three more Aborigines, men past middle life, with the same shocks of hair and heavy beards, turned gray, and the same worthless crea- tures, like their compatriots of whom I have spoken. I asked one of them why they did not make Boomerangs and Throwing Sticks to sell. He said he had been thinking of making one for a long time. Melbourne, Grand Hotel, Monday, April 7, 1890. Here I am back in Melbourne again, and in the Room, and at the Table and Window from which I have written you many of the pages of this long Letter. My few days’ jaunt was all I could desire, and I trust its story has not been entirely without interest to you. I made an early start from Bairnsdale. By six o’clock was at the Station and under Steam by Rail to this City, distant one hundred and seventy-one miles. We reached here at one p. m. 3IELB0URNE TO BALLARAT. 259 The Country is the same I had already traversed from Melbourne to Sale on the same Road, in going out, for one hundred and twenty- seven miles, and therefore I will make no comment. I thought that from Bairnsdale to Sale better and better cultivated ; though much of it, also, either in Grove Forests or their skeleton dead trees. On the Journey I talked with my fellow travellers in the same compartment — especially two of them — one from Melbourne and the other from Sydney ; each of whom eulogized his own City. The same rivalry exists that once prevailed between Chicago and St. Louis, and Kansas City and St. Joe — neither admitting that the one bears any comparison with the other. Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, April 8, 1890. This day I devoted to running up to Ballarat and back. I went direct, seventy-four miles, being on the through Railway to Adelaide, slightly Northwest. I returned by Geelong, a Town you will find on the West Coast of Port Philip. I left Melbourne at seven o’clock in the morning, reaching Ballarat at half-past ten. As usual, I fell in with people on the Train, with whom I talked and gathered much information about the Country, the people and their opinions. One old English gentleman, who has been in the Colony many years, was especially agreeable and communicative, calling my attention to objects on the way and keeping me advised. The suburbs of Melbourne do not appear to sweep with the same import. Northward, that they do Eastward on the Gippsland Route. We sooner passed beyond the City limits and reached the Rural dis- trict. For many miles the Country was a great ascending plain — apparently poor soil, set in grass, with little or no cultivation, and devoted to pasturage ; the fields were fenced olf, some with post and rail, and wire, but most frequently with stone — I soon found gathered from the land, which, when this had not been done, was thick covered with boulders and rounded stone, looking like our Nigger-heads, so- called, and when gathered, you know, making a poor, tumble-down Fence. I thought at first they were of the same species as those which cover my neighbors, John Will Glaize’s and Henry Stine’s Land ; but when broken I found they were Basaltic. 260 LETTER NO. 13. We began to ascend gradually, not long after leaving the City limits, and at forty-five miles were more than fifteen hundred feet above the Sea ; at sixty-one miles were more than nineteen hundred, and thence descended to Ballarat, fourteen hundred and fifteen. Mounting the higher elevations, the character of the Countiy changed, becoming rolling, some violently, whence we caught now and then fine extended views, and the soil in sections improved : — especially in the Valleys into which the washing of ages from the Hills had gone and formed rich alluvium. A beautiful Valley, called Bacchus’ Marsh, was especially significant of this — reminding me of our Virginia Max Meadows in fertility and cultivation. On higher ground, a little further on, Bungaru Section was also a highly cultivated region. But the bulk of the land from Melbourne to Ballarat is thin, adapted to and used only for pasturage, and in many spots numbers of Cattle and Sheep wei’e grazing. On the whole, I should not by any means call it an Agriculturally rich Country, from which much wealth could be emptied into the lap of the great City. Some hour or two before we reached Ballarat, the wind began to blow in gusty style, betokening coming rain ; and it fulfilled its promise. A short time after our arrival at the Station, it began and continued to shower during my whole stay in the City. I had from half-past ten to half-past three to see the place — plenty of time — and intended to pedestrianize it according to my habit; but not choosing to get wet in the adventure, hired a Hansom, with glass front and sides, excellent for observation. My Driver was a bright, polite young fellow, and took pleasure in showing me the sights of his town, of which he was evidently veiy proud. The site of Ballarat was a Gold-Field, and in it was the beginning of its prosperous career. The year 1851 was that of the birth of the Colony of Victoria ; it was, also, the year of the Gold Find ; and Victoria started with a Boom, like that of the two years previous — 1849 — in California; Ballarat, too, was then born. The story, similar to that of California, reads like a furious Romance — when men gathered in mobs, and became drunk with the sacm fames. The Colony and the Site starting thus, collected people, who remained when the surface was exhausted, and have been since the Architects of the fortunes of both, like California and San Francisco, under the impulse of the Forty-Niners. BALLARAT— GOLD NUGGETS. 261 Some of the Nuggets found here, and at Moliagul, North of the Dividing Range, surpass anything ever come across in any other part of the World. I have spoken of them incidentally before, when speaking of the Dunedin Exposition. The one at Moliagul weighed one hundred and ninety pounds; the one here, one hundred and eighty-three pounds — both found in 1869. To afford some idea of the size of the Nuggets of Gold found at Ballarat and other places, I insert the following, taken from one of the Papers of the day : “Big Gold Nuggets. The Largest Piece of Gold yet Found was Worth $150,000. In order to correct many misstatements that are going the rounds of the Press in regard to the largest nuggets of gold ever found, the editor of the Silver Dollar desires to publish the following facts, which he obtained while Commissioner to the great Mining Exposition held in Denver, Col., in 1882. These facts were obtained from the gen- tlemen having charge of the Australian exhibit, which includes models of all the large nuggets discovered in that great gold field. The largest piece of gold in the world was taken from Byer & Haltman’s gold-mining claim. Hill End, New South Wales, May 10, 1872. Its weight was 640 pounds, height four feet nine inches, width three feet two inches, average thickness four inches ; worth $148,800. It was found imbeded in a thick wall of blue slate at a depth of 250 feet from the surface. The owners of the mine were living on charity when they found it. Welcome Stranger Nugget was found on Mt. Moliagul, February 9, 1869, weighed 190 pounds, and was worth $45,600. This nugget was raffled for $46,000 at $5 a chance, and was won by a man driving a Baker’s cart. It was sold to the Bank for its true value and melted. The Welcome Nugget was found at Bakery Hill, June 9, 1858. It weighed 184 pounds 9 ounces 16 pennyweights, and was worth $44,356 ; was raffled for $50,000 at $5 a chance, and won by a small boy in a barber shop. Lady Hotham Nugget — named in honor of the wife of the Gover- nor of New South Wales — was found in Canadian Gully, September 262 LETTER NO. IS. 8, 1854. It weighed 98 pounds 10 ounces 12 pennyweights, and was sold for $23,557. Union Jack Nugget, found at Buningorg, February 28, 1857 ; weighed 23 pounds 5 ounces, and was sold for $5,620. It was found by a runaway sailor, who sold it for the sum named, and spent the money in just four weeks. No-name Nugget, found at Eureka, Daulton’s Flat, February 7, 1874, fifty feet below the surface ; weighed 52 pounds 1 ounce, and was sold for $12,500. ’ The Leg of Mutton Nugget was found at Ballarat, January 31, 1853, at a depth of sixty-five feet. It weighed 134 pounds 11 ounces, and was sold to the Bank for $32,380. This nugget was shaped like a leg of mutton, hence its name. No-name Nugget, found at Bakery Hill, Ballarat, March 6, 1855, near the surface; weighed 47 pounds 7 ounces, and was sold for $11,420. No-name Nugget, found in Canadian Gully, Ballarat, January 22, 1853, at a depth of twenty-five feet ; weighed 84 pounds 3 ounces 15 pennyweights, and was sold for $20,235. The Ivohinoor Nugget, found at Ballarat, July 27, 1860, at a depth of 160 feet from the surface ; weighed 69 pounds, and was sold for $16,680. Sir Dominic Daly Nugget, found February 27, 1862 ; weighed 26 pounds, and sold for $6,240. No-name Nugget, found at Ballarat, February 28, 1855, only six- teen feet below the surface. The discovery was made by a small boy. The nugget weighed 30 pounds 11 ounces 2 pennyweights, and sold for $7,365. No-name Nugget, found at Weebville, August 1, 1869 ; weighed 12 pounds; worth $2,280. No-name Nugget, found at Ballarat, February 2, 1853, just twelve feet below the surface ; weighed 30 pounds, and sold for $7,360. No-name Nugget, found in Canadian Gully, January 20, 1853, at eighteen feet below the surface; weighed 93 pounds 1 ounce and 11 pennyweights, and sold for $20,350. No-name Nugget, found at Bakery Hill, March 6, 1855 ; weighed 40 2 >ounds, and was worth $9,600. Nil Desperandum Nugget, found at Black Hills, November 29, 1859; weighed 45 pounds, and sold for $10,800. BALLARAT— GOLD NUGGETS. 263 Oates & Delson Nugget, found at Donolly gold-field in 1880, at the roots of a tree; weighed 189 pounds, and sold for $50,000. In addition to the above were the Heron Nugget, worth $20,000, and the Empress Nugget, worth $27,661. Gold in the drift deposits has been found in larger masses in Aus- tralia than in any other country. Many large nuggets were found in California during the era of placer mining, but we have no record of any to compare with those we have described in Australia.” Whilst these extraordinary things are not picked up now, the foundation of Ballarat is being explored with machinery, and I heard a gentleman say, that a small Earthquake would tumble the town into a mass of debris. Everywhere about are piles of refuse brought up from the bowels of the Earth in the eager search for the precious stuff. The digging beneath has not stopped the development and growth of the City on the surface. My Driv'er took me everywhere, to show me how business had grown up and built for itself in its thorough- fares handsome and costly Emporiums, and how its proceeds had opened up fine parked streets and lined them with villas and delight- ful homes — reaching out into the Country. How the desire to adorn as well as utilize has collected the water into a Lake, six miles in circuit, navigable by small Steamers, and on its farther Shores has put a Botanical Garden, one of the most beautiful in Australasia — I think the finest I have anywhere seen in these regions ; how one of its wealthy citizens — Stoddart — has adorned it with thirty marble figures — copies of the antique, and original ; and another — Thomp- son, a Scotchman — has given a fine Heroic white marble Figure of Wallace, which stands in the open Garden with the others, whilst a Dome covers four exquisite figures in white marble, also, of Eve, Rebecca, Ruth, and Susannah, surrounding the “ Flight from Pom- peii” — a man and woman, the latter carrying an Infant, in full speed, with a marble scroll, representing a shield, above their heads to protect them from the awful and certain doom — all of Colossal size — a splendid Group. The Conservatory, filled with many species of Ferns and Exotics, and the Grounds elaborately cultivated and adorned, all make these Gardens among the most exquisite I have ever seen in any part of the World : — by far the finest thing in Aus- tralia, no doubt. 264 LETTER NO. 13. The principal Street is ornamented with a White Marble Statue of Burns, and a similar one of Tom Moore; neither of them much to brag of, but showing a tender feeling of the Scotchman and the Son of Erin for the Poets who have given a Poetic Nationality to their Fatherland. This is all I have time to say of Ballarat — doubt- less, you think enough. At half-past three I left Ballarat for Melbourne by the way of Geelong — G pronounced soft, like G in Gypsy — fifty-five miles to Geelong, forty-five thence to this City. We arrived here at eight o’clock. Tliere was a sure-enough American Car on the train — seats cush- ioned with plush — the only one I have seen out in these regions. I took it for the sake of Old Lang Syne, and it was far more comfort- able than their antiquated Coaches. By my side was an old man, who told me he had been in this Colony and had lived in this neigh- borhood for fifty-eight years — a Swiss by birth, from Neufchatel — and it delighted him to talk with me about his beloved Country. He said the land between Ballarat and Geelong is poor, only fit for pasturage, which was manifest from the Cattle and Sheep we saw. He said he stuck to his business and made money when the Gold mania was abroad, and of the hundreds who ran mad after it, he did not know a single one who had made money in the “Higgins” ; they died poor, and the few speculators coined money out of their sweat and misfortunes. It rained the whole way to this City. I have now seen Melbourne and its surroundings worthy the note of the traveller. It is a wonderful City, without question — now the Capital of the Colony of Victoria, and numbering nearly half a mil- lion of people — one-half almost of the population of the Colony itself. No City on Earth is more remarkable, considering its youth and its surroundings. It and Chicago have been compared. In size, in splendor, in all that constitutes a great Emporium, it is vastly inferior to Chicago ,' but when compared in advantages, it is probably the more remarkable of the two. Chicago is not only the centre of an immediate Country greatly superior to that which environs Mel- bourne, but may be said to be the centre of a vast Continent. Burned down, much of it, to a level with the ground, it was rebuilt by the wealth of that Continent, and with a magnificence, in the continuity MELBOURNE. 265 of its structures, without a parallel. Melbourne, like all Cities that have grown continuously, has many fine structures broken by inferior buildings erected before the place aspired to grand proportions. It has much the air and busy activity of an American growth, though in fact Americans had not much to do with it ; few of them being here in comparison with those from the Old Country. But the push and audacity of its business men are very American. Yet the judgment of its leading citizens has not kept pace with their enterprise. This great collection of people have been gathered with- out any sanitary precautions with regard to their future safety and health. Seated on comparatively low ground, whilst they have wisely followed the contour of the City’s site, moderately rolling, in the laying out of the streets, they made no provision for its Sewerage. Thousands upon thousands of people have flocked here from year to year, and the ground allowed to become saturated with the monstrous accompaniments of a big City — its only relief being a surface drain- age. Of late they have awakened to the imminence of the situation, and Engineers have been appointed to report upon Sewage Plans. But the movement has been too long postponed, and Melbourne has already earned the reputation of being a most unhealthy place : Typhoid and other malignant fevers rioting among its inhabitants. When the time comes to turn up this fetid soil in constructing Sewers it will be converted into a charnel house. I know no City with such an ugly danger to confront. The City of Mexico is upon a cesspool, but seven thousand feet above the Sea : the atmosphere is pure around it, like its skies. Melbourne, not thus blessed, in a climate always warm, often for days among the hottest on Earth, where frost never comes, the opening of her chronic sores is frightful to con- template. For her Financial health, Melbourne has grown too fast. She has had, also, that ugly thing called a Boom. Her fall from the eleva- tion to which it boosted her a year or two ago has left her “ flat and unprofitable.” Many were ruined, many more badly crippled, houses built for which there is no demand, and the end for Melbourne not yet. It will, in the estimate of her sensible people, be a long time before she recovers and stands firmly on her feet again. It strikes me, in a general way, that Melbourne is a mushroom growth — too large and presumptuous for her resources, and taking on more than she can legitimately and easily carry. These views, how- 266 LETTER NO. 13. evei’, only confirm what I say : that her growth out of such environ- ments make her one of the most interesting and remarkable Cities in the World, and well worth the traveller’s time and trouble to see. To give some idea of the foregoing condition of things, I insert the following slips from the Papers of the Day — of that date and slightly subsequent : “ Melbouene, July 10, 1890. — One of the co-operative building societies here, the “Premier Permanent,” has just smashed, with a deficit of about $800,000. The Secretary was one James Mirams, who from keeping a small box store and news-stall bloomed into a Member of Parliament and Financier. Mirams travelled on piety and cold water. He had the “unco guid” by the wool. They rushed to take shares in the Society. They deposited their savings in its coffers. Mr. Nimmo, an ex-Minister of the Crown and a staunch teetotaller, was Chairman of the Society. On the Board of Directors were Mr. Dow, Minister of Lands, and Mr, Munro, son of the leader of the opposition party in Parliament — all cold water men, be it noted. Everything appears to have been trusted to Mirams. He went into other speculations, and was reported to be worth two or three million dollars. He started a big suburban establishment, drove fast horses, and astonished his old acquaintances with the statement that “ No gentleman can do without twelve horses in his stable.” Mel- bourne clerks, mostly church members, and total abstainers, watched the upward flight of Mirams, and aspired to become gentlemen with a dozen horses in their stables, and, as a result, many of them are now penitent in Pentridge, our penal establishment. The end of the land boom came last year, and the bottom fell out of everything which was not solid. Mirams collapsed, his house and horses were sold, and his last state is now worse than his first, for he is in the felon’s dock. The Premier Permanent went with the crash, and an official liqui- dator was appointed. This was one Colonel Templeton, a militia officer and an accountant. He realized the assets, but instead of dividing these among the shareholders, he has instituted criminal proceedings against the Dii-ectors, the Officials, and the very Clerks. That Mirams should be prosecuted, goes without saying; but that a private pi’osecution should be instigated with the shareholders’ funds against the Directors, is now generally held to be an outrage. MELBOURNE. 267 Mr. Dow at once sent in his resignation to the Ministry, which the Cabinet at first refused to accept; but Dow persisted in resigning till his character was cleared. What many of us object to in this action of Colonel Templeton is that through it the enemies of Australia in England will magnify the fact that a Minister of the Crown and an ex-Minister have been charged with being parties to a great fraud, and will rejoice thereat, as they do over every criminal sensation in America.’’ “the sweating system denounced. Until to-day few people believed that “sweating” existed in Aus- tralia. The press, however, has shown that it does exist, and at last the Trades Hall Council has taken up the matter. This is a body composed of representatives of the different trades unions in Victoria. It is a powerful political engine, and should have been the first to bring sweating to light. But having commenced work, the Trades Hall Council did well. Sub-committees visited the suburbs, and unearthed the Sweaters’ Dens ; ascertained the prices paid, and the factories that put out work to the sweaters. A mass meeting was called, the Mayor was asked to grant the use of the Town Hall, and last night one of the largest gatherings I remember in Melbourne was held. The result of this meeting will be that public opinion will force Par- liament to pass some measure by which Sweaters’ Dens will be brought under the provisions of our Factory Act; and public opinion will, also, force our fashionable tailors to abstain from employing middlemen.” “ Austkaeia’s Financial Teoubles. The failure of the English, Scottish, and Australian Chartered Bank for $40,000,000, following upon a long line of failures of other prominent Australian banks during the last two years, emjihasizes the oft-taught lesson, that the prosperity which is produced chiefly by the spending of borrowed money is unwholesome for a community, and must, as a rule, end in disaster. All goes pleasantly enough while the millions are being poured out. Business flourishes, strikes multiply, wages rise, and immigrants flock in. New enterprises are entered upon everywhere. But the enterprises are often unsuited to 268 LETTER NO. 13. the time and place and fail to pay. Taxes to pay interest begin to be felt. Wages fall, immigration slackens, and sanguine investors lose great part of their capital. The depression that attends and follows the period of liquidation is the harder to bear, for the reason that the Community has accustomed itself during the “spurt” to an extravagant mode of living. It groans over necessary economies, and brings itself down to hard-pan only after painful struggles on the part of one section or another of the Community to maintain its position at the expense of the rest. The English, Scottish, and Australian Bank was a conservative institution chartered in 1852. It appears to have kept its head pretty well during the recent booms, but not sufficiently well to command the absolute confidence of its depositors. Six months ago it had deposits of $30,000,000, but these have been steadily withdrawn. Since the 1st of the present month, $1,000,000 has been withdrawn. Evidently it is difficult for a bank doing a business of $50,000,000 a year to realize at this rate on its collaterals, unless of the gilt-edge kind. It is believed that the assets of the Bank, if duly “ nursed,” will largely exceed its liabilities ; but the collapse of the boom has weakened confidence in all Australian assets. There has been much over-trading and over-building. Cases are mentioned where property has lost three-fourths of its former value, so that loans up to 50 per cent only of the boom value have netted the banks heavy losses. Wages have till recently been very high, — a laborer getting from $3 to $4 for a day of about seven hours. The fever of flush times, however, is now in the past, and Australia will adjust itself as best it can to its increased burdens. It is a rich Country. Its per capita debt is the largest in the World; but its natural resources are great, and its people have immense “go.” A few years will, doubtless, bring them round again.” Melbourne to Sydney, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, Empire Hotel, Wednesday and Thursday, April 9 and 10, 1890. It rained hard all day in Melbourne on Wednesday till the hour of my departure for Sydney. In the Morning I went to the Union MELBOURNE. 269 Bank of Australia, my Letter of Credit Correspondent, to inquire for my mail. I found one Letter from Charles, of February 5 ; one from Little Louise, of January 31 ; and four from yourself, viz : February 6, February 13, February 20, and February 27, enclosing one from my Friend. Hubbell, of Lima, Peru, of January 6, in I’esponse to one I wrote him just before my departure from Home. I also received six packages of papers — not a single Letter from Margaret ! I then went and bought from Thomas Cook & Sons a Ticket and Sleeper Ticket to Sydney. They cost no more than when bought from the Company, and save me the hurry and crowd at the Station on the leaving of the Train ; for, strange to say, the Eailways here have not yet Offices at which you can pi’ocure them before the hour of depart- ure, as with us, but you have to be hustled and crushed at the Ticket Office. They are, however, gradually learning and taking on our modes. I then hurried back to my Room and devoured the contents of the Letters — wondering why none came from Margaret. They filled me with alternate joy and sorrow ; joy that yon were all well, sorrow for the misfortune that befell you in the fire at the Shoe Factory, and that I am not there to help you bear it and plan with you for the restoration of the property. My ever faithful consolation, however, came to me : it might have been so much worse. Do you think Eight Hundred Dollars will cover the loss ? I fear not, if the Roof has to be restored. You know how unreliable is the Carpenter’s estimate — almost ever falling below the ultimate cost. How much does Ned know, with his life-long experience, about making such an estimate? The Roof, of course, must be firmly and strongly bridged in order, as before, to bear the suspended floors ; which I reminded you in a former Letter ought also to be supported from the ground up. Were I not such a vast distance from you, I would break up my plans and run Home by the shortest and fastest Route ; but six weeks has elapsed since the misfortune occurred ; another six weeks would, intervene before I could reach you, by which time your work would all be done. And without any possible good my Tour would be undone. After the expenditure of much money and precious time, both would in effect be thrown uselessly away. Home has, ever since I read your Letter, been constantly on my heart, and Australia is forgotten, save as it glides before my eyes. And then, too, the trouble comes when you are overrun with Professional work and in 270 LETTER NO. 13. an Epidemic. AVhat must I do? If I stay and continue my Jour- ney, its experiences will be overclouded with apprehensions; if I break its thread and go hack over the same Route, reaching you when the trouble has ceased, it will be a source of unending regret to us all. By the way, where is John? that you did not employ him and Kim to do the work? I have really no suggestions of material change in the Building. Make the floors and their supports strong, and you can arrange its interior to suit any future demand. But, above all things, make the Roof powerful. You remember, I tried to make it strong with special design to sustain the floors. It was once before, by the ignorance or oversight of the Cai'penters, near falling into a mass of ruins. To Margaret: AVhat in the world has become of your Letters? In two months only one, out of eight or ten that ought to have reached me, of your weekly Letters, has come to hand. Their loss to me is incalculable. AVhen reading their newsy contents you put me in your midst, and I go through them with an interest inexpres- sible. I would have great anxiety, but Taylor, in his, tells me of your and Mary’s visits to the Old Home ; and for you to forget me or be oblivious of what so keeps me up and binds me unbrokenly to you all in these far-off Countries is, I know, im^DOSsible. You have, I am sure, written the Letters, and failed to put on them the proper stamps, and they are hanging somewhere on the way, or been thrown into the waste basket. All of Taylor’s, you perceive, have come — none from you since the one dated January 12, which I noted on a previous page of this, at the time of its receipt. Some of Taylor’s, happily, was returned to the Postmaster in AVinchester for want of a sufficieut stamp, and that through a mistake of the Postmaster himself. Yours have not met such good fortune, but been simply stopped and lost. Such troubles have never come to me in all my previous Tours ; indeed none ever came to me before. But why should these make me anxious in the midst of my wanderings, when you are all well, and no trouble has occurred that cannot be repaired ? But it grieves me that I cannot be there to help repair them. If I was nearer, and could reach there in time to do any good, my Tour should end right here and now. But, however sorrowfully, I must travel on with the Story of my Tour. To stop would do neither you nor me any good ; would, MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY. 271 indeed, be only adding to our aggravations — to me, throwing my thoughts into channels, crowding each other with imaginary entangle- ments and making me unhappy hopelessly, and leaving you without these lines, which, judging you by myself, must be in their commu- nion during my long absence a never-ceasing consolation. I had my Trunk and Deck Chair and Satchel at the Station in Melbourne in due time. When I came to put my Trunk and Chair on the Car, the Porter checked it with a brass check and handed me the duplicate in true American style. I told him I was glad to see they were getting into civilized habits in their Railway modes, and pointing to the crowds of men and women jostling each other around the Pigeon Hole of the Ticket Olfice, told him I hoped that, also, would be included in their reforms. We started at five o’clock p. m. The rain which had been pour- ing down all day continued during the night, till our arrival here in Sydney at twelve o’clock to-day — Thursday. The Country during the daylight was none to brag of — much like that to Ballarat — now or once strewn with Basaltic boulders and rounded stone ; in many places, indeed, genei’ally, for some miles, fenced in and cleared, and converted rather to pasture, than to cultivated fields. This Road runs Northwest, and the suburbs of the big City extends for miles — now, with simple homes — now, with handsome Villas. About midnight we reached Albury, one hundred and ninety miles from Melbourne, on the Murray River, which divides the Colonies of Victoria and New South Wales, of which Sydney is the Capital. Here w^e had to change trains, the Gauges of the Roads being differ- ent, resulting, some say, from the jealousy of the Governments, in whose hands and under whose control all the Railways and Tele- graphic Lines are. Passengers and Freight, also, had to be trans- ferred. Here I took my Sleeper, and having my apartment and berth assigned me on the Ticket, my place was soon come across, under the guidance of the polite and attentive Steward. Here I found an improvement, I think, upon the Pullman Sleepers : instead of the Bunks being arranged along the Aisle on either side of the Car, they are in compartments, closing with a door, occupying one side of the Car ; the Aisle by which they are reached occupying the other. I think this plan secures more privacy and better venti- lation. My Room-mate occupied the upper, I the lower Berth, which 272 LETTER NO. 13. were roomy and clean, and I could have rested well had not my thoughts kept awake, and travelled from me many miles away. When daylight came I was up and out, and from that hour observed the Country, till our arrival here — a distance from Albury of three hundred and eighty-six miles, a total distance from Melbourne of five hundred and seventy-six. Much of it was a wilderness of ragged foi’est, like that I have written of before in Australia : either living, spindling Eucalypti, in its seemingly legion species, or their stark skeletons ; some, but not much in comparison, converted into pasture- lands, on which wei'e numbers of Cattle and Sheep. I saw but few fields in grain. When my mate aroused himself, I found he was a Scotchman from near Edinburgh, who once lived in Australia, but now resided in the Old Country, and was paying a visit to the Colonies with his family of seven, doubtless to show them where he in his young days had made his pile. He was a pleasant, gentlemanly old man, think- ing a little more highly of himself at first than he ought to think ; but easily feeling his ignorance, after a while, and gently coming down. When [ reached the Station, I took a Cab, and in a few moments was landed at the Hotel which heads this Letter j and was assigned to a comfortable Room. I saw Mr. Nead, who, with his wife, is staying here, and with whom probably I may travel homewards. It raining, I did not go out in the afternoon or evening : but quietly rested, and after Dinner went early to Bed. To Charles: Your Letter came, bearing its pleasure, and was read greedily. Time and Travel do not blunt my greed to hear from those who are dear to me; rather increases with both. The foregoing pages have told you of our Home and trouble there, and how it has risen and, floating thitherward, like a cloud, overshadows my goings. I am delighted you are all well and happy. Kiss Louise for me, and tell her, that was a nice, thoughtful Letter she wrote me, and how I enjoyed it, here, on the t’other side of the World. She must write again, and let me know how she likes my Geography. I hope it does not affect her like Geography in general does one of our Winchester boys, who told his teacher he dreamt about it. His teacher asked him. What? He said he dreamt, “Damn Geography.” SYDNEY. 273 Same City and Hotel, Friday, April 11, 1890. Not satisfied witli the conclusion yesterday with regard to my future movements, my Friend Mr. Nead and I went to see our Consul, Mr. Gilderoy W. Griffin, to make inquiry about the next Steamer to San Francisco. It sails on the sixteenth of this month ; but the Consul said was crowded to overflowing, and there was not only no room, but many would be left here and in New Zealand, who desired pass- age. At this Season, the crowds returning to or visiting the Old Countries are very great, and many desire to pass through the United States out, returning in the Fall by Suez. The Zelandia is the Steamer for the sixteenth. You remember, on my First Tour, this same Ship took me to San Francisco from Honolulu, with a great crowd, and at this same Season of the year. We then went to the French Line — Messageries Maritimes — and learned that one of their Vessels left Sydney for Marseilles on the 25th of this month by the Suez Canal. The Line is a very fine one, and this Ship, the Australien, one of its best Steamers, and we have determined to take it. It will be in to-morrow, and we Avill go and see for ourselves. The Agent politely said he would accompany us. We then walked to the Wharves — Sydney Cove — and I had a first view of a segment of the famous Harbor of Sydney. I will make no comments now. By many, it is claimed to be the most beautiful Harbor on the Globe. Before I leave, I hope I will be competent to judge, from a more extended view. Strolling on, we visited the Botanical Gardens, which, also, have a great reputation. The clouds and rain of yesterday had gone, and we could not have had a more auspicious day. With such advant- ages, I was not disappointed. The Gardens are superbly located, the North side bounded by the Harbor, embracing Farm Cove, one of its Inlets, framed in a waterwall, along which is a Promenade, from Fort Macquerie to Lady Macquerie’s Chair — the two headlands of the Cove. Adjoining the Gardens on the North, and, indeed, a part of them, are the Governor’s House and Grounds, also reaching to the Cove ; on the South is the Domain and Hyde Park, bounded Westward by Wolloomooloo Bay, another Inlet of the Harbor, which, with the other Reserves in the City, embrace eight hundred acres. I 18 274 LETTER NO. IS. send you a Map of Sydney, that you may the better understand and follow me. The Gardens are handsomely laid out and improved, and are well deserving of their reputation. From high grounds in their midst are extended views of them and of Port Jackson — the Harbor’s name — a scene not calculated by any means to impair the Harbor’s claim for supremacy in excellence and beauty. We will gather after a while all its charms ; first seeing it in segments. Same City and Hotel, Saturday, April 12, 1890. Still not satisfied, I determined to Cable you. Mr. Nead, who has been here some months and knows the ins and outs of the City, and is besides a man of business and up in its details, kindly went with me to Reuter’s, the famous Cable and Telegraph man, you know, and helped me. This is the first time in all my world-wide and world-around Travels, I have ever been called upon to use the Ocean Wire. I earnestly trust and pray it may never occur again. If it does not upon this Tour, I feel that it never will ; for from my anxieties about you all, I think the residue of my life will be spent with you, and the small portion of the World worth seeing, now left by me unvisited, shall thus remain. I made the contents of the Message brief enough, certainly — simply saying, “ Shall I return ? ” Even this cost me about twenty dollars, and would have cost much more, but I used Reuter’s Code, by which the Message was cast into one word, for which use alone I paid two dollars and fifty cents. I mention this as Travel information, hoping your cost at the other end will not be so much — for your response need only be Yes ! or No ! or that you may leave it for me to pay at this end. I trust things won’t get tangled in the long transmission, by ignorant Agents along the Line. The Agent here said you would receive it in a few hours — maybe, while I write, it has come to hand and the answer is on the wing. Though this I can hardly hope for. Fixing this, Mr. Nead and I parted, and I wandered alone about the City, taking in the Streets and observing the lay and build of Sydney, and then out through the Domain and Hyde Park. At the opening of the latter, stands a Marble Statue of the Prince Consort, — by admirers to “ Albert the Good ” — and in an area in front, one of SYDNEY. 275 the Queen. Farther on in the Park upon an elevation, is an impos- ing Bronze Figure of Captain Cook, of Colossal proportions, on a granite pedestal, with extended and elevated hand claiming for the Crown the vast possessions he had found — a fine work of Art, and a not unworthy tribute to the Great Discoverer. Near by, across the way, is the Sydney Museum, where I next went. It is in a quite handsome Building of a Buif-colored Stone — I observe very common in the City, of which many of its handsomest edifices are built. Not far off on the same street stands the unfinished Roman Catholic Cathedral, of the same material, which I visited ; of it is also built the Post Office, an exceedingly capacious and hand- some structure — spoiled, however, by a tall, many storied spindling Tower, which rises from one of its sides, without any seeming Archi- tectural or other propriety or design. Of it, too, most of the Banks are built, very numerous and very snmptuous, and to the people, I am quite sure, very expensive Financial Shops ; and many Business Houses. But to proceed with the Museum : When I entered I inquired of the polite Janitor where I would find the Australian Snakes ; I wanted to see two or three of its species, which are fatally venomous — the Adder, the Tiger Snake and the Black Snake. Australia has a great number of these creatures — sixty to seventy species — most of which are more or less poisonous ; the three I have mentioned regarded as fatal. Since I have been in the Country I have seen notices of two or three deaths from the bite of the Tiger Snake. Whilst wandering through I was overtaken by a young man, who said he had been in- formed that I was examining the Snake Department, and had come to help give me any information in his power ; that he had charge of it, and had assisted in collecting many of its specimens; and kindly and intelligently showed me what I desired to see, and then accom- panied me through the residue of the Museum. In our walk he told me that he spent thi'ee years in Texas, and learning who I was, his courtesies increased, and we wandered much longer than I had any intention of doing, talking of the Museum and its contents and of America. It is a fine collection, well cared for, and that of the Marsupials of Australia by far the most complete I ever saw ; doubt- less the most complete in the world. But in a hasty Letter, to attempt to enumerate is folly and a bore. 276 LETTER NO. 13. His name, he told me, is Oglebie, and accompanying me to the door, urged me to return and spend some time, and he would intro- duce me to the Superintendent, who was much more competent to give me information ; and would, he knew, take great pleasure in doing so. In the afternoon Mr. and Mrs. Nead and I went to the Harbor and visited the French Steamer we propose to take. We were met by the Agent and the Purser of the Ship, and conducted thi’ough, showing us the Saloon, Rooms and Appointments of the Big Vessel, and ordering out his best wines to vivify and encourage us. At Dinner, Mrs. Nead, who is a Catholic, had Father Moore, a Jesuit Priest, to dine with us. He is an intelligent man, and of course been taught by his Order that profound Philosophy of the Apostle, “ to be all things to all men, that ye may save some,” and consequently is an agreeable one to meet. Our talk mainly related to Travels, in which I gave him some of my experiences. Pie said he had heard of me from a friend who met me in New Zealand, and Mrs. Nead told me he was anxious to meet on account of the encomiums bestowed upon me. We did not drift upon Religion or the Church, and therefore I have nothing to say of our talk ; for to even remotely allude to my Travels would be an outrage upon one who has been Avith me through hundreds of pages of their stories. You perceive I am not progressing very fast in sight seeing. To tell the truth, my thoughts are with you all at home, not in Australia; and the news your Letters bring, and the absence of news from Mar- garet, have blunted the edge of my Travel curiosity. Cheerfully would I suri’ender it to be with you. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, April 13, 1890. This has been an interesting day. After Breakfast I walked to the Landing of the Parramatta Steamers and took one up that River to the Town of the same name, situated on or near it, distant from Sydney sixteen miles. Parramatta is, next to Sydney, the oldest Town in Australia. It has been and is a sleepy place ; and whilst Sydney has grown with its suburbs to more than three hundred thousand, its cotemporary is satisfied with its six or eight. SYDNEY TO PARRAMATTA. 277 We left at eleven o’clock, and the little Steamer was full, dressed in their best clothes, going out to spend Sunday in the Country. The Morning was very cleai’, bright and cool, and the steam through and across the Harbor beautiful — Steamers like our own scudding hither and thither with their crowded Decks. Tlie City stretched around us on every hand, built upon the inlets and coves of the Port, which your Map will show you, give an indescribable variety of outline to the famous Harbor. The wet weather, during which more water has fallen than for many years, has, though this is the Autumn, given a richness to the verdure rivalling the Spring. I could not have visited Australia at a more propitious time, or with a more auspicious season, and to-day we had it in perfection. Receding from the City, the Villas and Country Houses claimed recognition on either hand, sur- rounding the arms of the Harbor, and reaching up the Parramatta River, making the scene, what it claims to be, one of the most attrac- tive in Australia, or the World. For probably twelve miles this continued, to a Landing called Ryde, I think, and then the banks of the River became flat and the Country low, and in some places marshy, and had little scenic interest. I talked to the passengers and gathei’ed information. I was interested to know where the fine yellow stone came from of which such a num- ber of the handsome edifices in the City, of which I have already spoken, are built. The quarries in close proximity were pointed out to me — equal seemingly to the supply of any quantity, and a great blessing, for the furnishing of such durable and handsome material in the City’s adornment. There were some large Hotels upon the banks, but my informant said that bathing in the open Harbor was dangerous, being infested with Sharks, and numerous fatalities had occurred from their vora- cious propensities. The water looks so quiet and friendly, set in its lovely rim, that one would hardly suppose it hid such fierce enemies. But Sydney Harbor is not alone in this World of ours, in the union of the bitter and the sweet, the dangerous and the beautiful. In the vicinity of Ryde is the Boat Race Course, and we had an opportunity of seeing the Scullers out in numbers, preparing for the Contest. It was a pretty sight to see the brawny fellows drive their clean cut Craft. The Race comes off in a few weeks, I think, and it is hard to tell which interests the Australian the more — this or the 278 LETTER NO. 13. Horse Race ; for both attract great throngs, and are the sole living topic of conversation wherever you go. Reaching the Landing, which is the head of the navigation of the River, it quite effectually playing out, a Steam Tram Train was there to convey us to the City, two or three miles. Here I visited the Park, not much to speak of, in improvement, though quite large. Near the Entrance Gateway stands a small Shaft by a tree, both enclosed with an Iron Fence, which bears the inscription, that in 1847 Sir John Fitzroy and Lady Fitzroy, his wife, he at the time being Governor of the Colony, were thrown from their Carriage against this tree and killed. I then strolled about the quiet Town, in which I saw nothing worthy of note, and by the half-past one o’clock Train returned to Sydney. Dismounting at the Station in Sydney, I was making my way to the Domain and Park, when I observed a Steam Tram marked, For Botany. I resolved to run down five or six miles, and see the noted spot, where Cook first landed and where subsequently England estab- lished a Penal Colony, and where in after years Botany Bay earned a cruel reputation for merciless suffering in the infliction of Human punishment. Noticing a big crowd aboard, on inquiry, I was informed that there was a Concert every Sunday, and the people were going to attend it. The City and its suburbs extended the whole distance, showing how, wherever you go about it, you see its enlargement. The Grounds around the Head of the Bay have been enclosed and beautified ; on them are a Hotel and a Pavilion. I was not interested in these. I wanted to see the Historic Botany Bay. And a good opportunity was afforded. Passing through the Grounds, to the Shore, I had a full view of its entire Basin, and of the Ocean, through the Headlands opposite. Such scenes, full of History, or its twin Sister, Romance, afford me far more of pleasiu’e and interest than the Music of a Con- cert. I, therefore, let it play and sing on, whilst I talked with an old fellow on the Shore about the surroundings. He called my attention to the Column erected in honor of Cook, on the left Head- land entering the Bay, where he claimed the New Land for England’s Majesty; on the Right, the spot where La Perouse, the French Navi- gator, landed, who was subsequently lost, no one knows how or where, but whose memory is cherished by his Countrymen, constantly bringing flowers to decorate the sjDot where he landed. The Bay is SYDNEY. 279 a land-locked Basin, save the opening, of which I have spoken ; the water seemed shallow on the side where I stood ; but my informant said was very deep in every other place, and was a fine Harbor, where Vessels could in safety rest. Satisfied here, I returned to the City, and then visited the New South Wales Art Gallery, situated in the Park. It is quite a large and creditable collection. But the throngs of people filling the Park interested me much more. There were not only men, women, and children walking about, but groups were gathered in spots : — some listening to a Salvation Army Orator — some to an emissary of the Christian Association — some to a Hymn sung by a Choir, with the accompaniment of a Parlor Organ — some to a Free Thinker — some talking on Human Rights — some discussing Protection — some Free Trade — some were norating from the ground or from a stand, to the crowd around them, large or small, in proportion to the Speaker’s eloquence — some were having a private bout in controversy, the listeners gathered to enjoy their wit and argumentative ability. I never in my life anywhere, out of Australia, saw such assemblages of people on a Sunday Afternoon, engaged in such promiscuous talk. Doubtless, such was Athens, in the days of Socrates, when Plato made him talk his wisdom and engage in controversy upon the high themes he discussed with such mai'vellous power, neglecting in the meantime the much-abused Zanthippe and his domestic duties. I wandered from one group to another; but heard no Socrates or Plato — yet was often amused at the cut and thrust of the antagonists. It was a scene worth witnessing, and was unquestionably Athens in miniature re- vived. It was approaching dusk when I reached the Hotel. Mr. Nead was waiting for me, and produced your answer to my Cablegram — a single word : No ! — yet full of comfort to me ; for it satisfied me things were moving right with you all. I will say nothing further now ; time will not permit. I want to finish this Letter and leave it with the Consul, who promised to forward it with his Official Mail by the Zelandia, the first Vessel for San Francisco. Your next Letters will meet me at Cape Town, care of Bank of Africa, whither I told you to direct some time ago. It will be a long time before I get them. But I wdll forward one to you, as hitherto, by every opportunity. I trust all may safely come to hand. 280 LETTER NO. IS. I sincerely hope your Building troubles are by this time ended. When I return I can help you right things up. To Margaret : You must be more particular hereafter about your stamps. When I receive the next batch, may your missing Letters be with them, and many more. Love to Doctor M., Mary and Mag. The Doctor, I trust, stood his work with the Grippe, and is well and heartyi I send by this Mail, also. Maps for you and Margaret. I send them, also, to Charles. I write in a great hurry for the Mail. With tenderest love for all, F. I enclose this in three Envelopes. [No. 14.] Same City of Sydney, and Same Hotel, Monday, April 14, 1890. My Dear Margaret , — To-day I was busy closing Letter 13 to Taylor, which, after finish- ing, I took to our Consul, Mr. Griffin, who promised to mail it. The Letter is a long one, in tlu’ee Envelopes, and that together with some Maps I sent you and Charles and Taylor, under their high Postage System, amounted to nearly three dollars. I wish these Colonies were in the Postal Union ; that would not only render the charges less, but the transmission swifter and surer. May they all reach you safely ! I was rendered so uncomfortable by Taylor’s Letters, giving an account of our fire misfortune and his increased troubles thereby, that I sent a Cablegram to inquire whether I had not better return home, that I might aid him in the restoration of the loss. In less than twenty-four hours the response came, relieving me of apprehension. Until it arrived I was very anxious. Never was I so impressed with the wonders of the Wire. Those words travelled by the Route they had to take to and fro, nearly twice around the World, including SYDNEY. 281 stoppages and transfers, in about twelve or fifteen hours from the time of the starting of the Message till the response was received. Its journey was to Port Darwin, Northern Australia ; thence to Batavia, Java ; thence to Colombo, Ceylon ; thence to London ; thence to New York ; thence to Winchester. I told you in the last all about the failure of your Letters, save one, for two months, to come to me, and my solution of the reason. Your grief, when you heard it, was as great as mine, I am sure. But don’t let us worry over it now. I know you and yours are well, both from Taylor’s Letters and his Cablegram in response to mine. I only pray none of mine have miscarried, and that they have satisfied you of my whereabouts and well doing. These things, and engaging definitely my passage on the French Steamer, and paying the deposit and choosing my Room, together with a long talk with the Consul, from which I could not get away, consumed the day, and I have nothing new to tell you of Sydney. You remember one of my Room-mates from Bluff to Hobart, Mr. F. W. Harding, of whom I think I spoke. I received a Letter from him to-day, making ample apology, with expressions of much admi- ration, for what he deemed a rudeness or ill-manners. Of course it was all in his imagination — being a sensitive man and polite to a fault. His offence consisted in this, as far as I can recall : His polite- ness to me and courtesy had been unintermitting, and I invited him to go to the same Hotel I proposed to stop at ; and with his usual politeness said he feared it was too expensive for his means. I enclose the Letter as one of the curiosities of travel. Preserve it with this. Of course I responded to his London address, which he gave me in his : Breutdale, Hendon Lane, Finchley, London. Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, April 15, 1890. To-day I visited the University. You observe it and its Grounds occupying a large space on the Map of Sydney I sent. Southwest of the Botanical Gardens and Domain. It is a long imposing Structure, with wings built of the same yellow stone of which I have spoken, occupying a high site, whence 282 LETTER NO. U. a commanding view of much of the City is obtained. The Grounds about it are large and tastefully improved, and evidently it is not only a handsome but costly Foundation. Much care and attention has been bestowed upon it of late, and it is said to be assuming a position of high grade. It is mixed — Boys and Girls. Of them I saw a number — both dressed in Oxford Cap and Black Gown of similar cut — wandering about, as the Boys when by themselves are wont to do : I don’t think it at all a pretty sight, and ominous of no good to our civilization. But I have hastily given my views before in Melbourne, and on former Tours, in speaking of other Institutions of similar organiza- tion. Who are to educate the Heroes of the Country, if the women are to play Heroes themselves with the heavy burdens that role im- poses? I talked with some of the Boys. They said last year there were few Girls. Many more this. Unquestionably they will increase, and from year to year that Chivalry which sprang from her lofty position, enthroned an Ideal in the heart of the boy and man, will pass away and both will thereby suffer. The longer I live, the better satisfied I become, that, not from the Material, but from the Spiritual ; not from the Head, but from the Heart, the noblest must come : “ It is the Heart and not the Brain, That to the highest doth attain.” The Boys admitted some of them were smart, and ran away with the honors. I would not deprive woman of culture ; but I would not, in violation of her very organization, throw her into competition with the rougher nature of the man. She cannot beat him with a Bludgeon or Battle-axe on the dusty field of arms : — she can lead him to higher arenas with a silken cord. But the day for these thoughts seem to be passing away, and soon Materialism in every sphere of Life will be triumphant. On my way back, I observed that the Battle of Gettysburg was on Exhibition in Cycloramic form, and went to see it. You have all, who read these Letters, seen it in our Country at one time or another I believe, and I will, therefore, not attempt to describe it, or, indeed, make any comment. SYDNEY TO BATHURST. 283 Bathurst and Sydney, ' Wednesday and Thursday, April 16 and 17, 1890. These two days have been spent in a trip to Bathurst and back. This City is West of Sydney, over the Blue Mountains. The Railway is regarded as quite an Engineering feat, in ascending and descending grade, which is done by zig-zag on both sides of the Mountain. After leaving Sydney, the Country is rolling, and the Road in following its countour, ranges in elevation from thirty-two to one hundred and eighty feet. But the true climb of the Mountains begins about thirty-five miles from Sydney, though they appear on the West and Northwest horizon some time before, of deep Blue like our own Ridge, and not unlike it in appearance in certain portions of its reach. Immediately before beginning the ascent, we traverse the Emu Plains, through which flows the Nepean River, that we cross upon a fine Iron Bridge. These Plains extend on either hand, thick-strewn with Farms, and Orchards, and Orangeries, a beautiful and luxuriant sight, for the recent rains have made vegetation green and fresh. Then we begin to ascend by zig-zag in three or four miles more than five hundred feet, the while the Country opening below us, threaded by the River, — a Landscape not undeserving of its reputation. Continuing to rise, the everlasting Gum or Eucalyptus Tree Forest or Bush borders us on either hand with its numberless varieties — a by no means fascinating scene, and interesting only to the traveller from being specially characteristic of Australia. Still going up, we attain an elevation in forty miles of more than thirty-six hundred feet, the atmosphere meanwhile partaking more and more of the tonic of the upper regions. All along are Villas and country Summer homes — some simple, some costly — whither the people fly from Sydney heats. In this vicinity, too, off from the Road, are Waterfalls and Cascades, and Glens and Caves, to which many Tourists go, either because they have never seen such objects, or because it is “ the thing to do.” Not prompted by either of these motives, I did not feel in- clined to stop and spend several days in wandering among them. I have seen so many of such things in every part of the World, that I did not think I could add much to my travel knowledge ; I certainly 284 LETTER NO. U. would not to my travel pleasure. The Jenolan Caves especially are quite celebrated, but to be reached by Coaching and walking. Now I would rather see the Country and the people of Australia ; for, really, after my experience, there is no Country that has less of the esthetic to show than the great, mainly flat, Continent-Island of Australia. These Blue Mountains stretch along the Northeast-Southwest trend of Australia’s Coast — your Map will show you ; not unlike our own Appalachian Chain. But the Eastern Watershed furnishes no mag- nificent Rivers, like those with us, which find their outlet in the Atlantic. The largest Rivers in Australia have their sources in these Mountains, but drain its Western Watershed — chiefly the Murray, with its affluents ; the Murrumbidgee — the g pronounced soft, like g in Gipsy ; the Lachlan, and the Darling, or Macintyre, with their branches. These Rivers catch the waters of a great Plateau, which inclines from the Mountains West-Southwest, and in their flow some- times are, in dry weather, merely threads ; sometimes in rainy, are roaring, devastating, monstrous currents, which, like the Mississippi in its wrath, destroy all before them. Such is the Darling now, from the accounts we receive from day to day : sweeping off in its flood Cattle, Sheep and Towns. Bourke, a town upon it, and the terminus of this Road, is saved now only by an embankment, which at any moment may be carried down. The Rivers I have named debouch through the Murray into the Southern Ocean. But there are some which never reach the Sea; they flow into interior Lakes, like Carson and Humboldt on our Western Plains, of which I told you in my first Tour, or are dried up by the heat, or swallowed up by the sands of that torrid region, much of which, and that to the Westward, is either unknown or desert, beyond the reach of tillage. We descend from this elevation by another zig-zag of six hundred and eighty-seven feet in five miles. This is called the great zig-zag, and is a beautiful piece of Engineering and work. We came in sight of Bathurst some time before we arrived — conspicuously located in the centre of an extensive rolling country. The Morning pi’omised badly for the weather, but the day advancing, it improved ; being fine for travelling — and our advent to the City, one hundred and forty- five miles from Sydney, was accompanied by a brilliant Sunset. BATHURST. 285 Driving to the Hotel, I found it thronged with people, and was told an Agricultural Fair was going on, and the Town was crowded — another unhappy meeting with what I had had such a quantity of since my arrival in New Zealand and Australasia. The Proprietor told me it was impossible to give me a Room ; even his floors were occupied with shake-downs ; but he hoped after awhile he could make me comfortable. I took my Dinner with him, and at table had much talk with a young Australian. After Dinner a gentleman kindly informed me he was about to leave, and I could have his bed. We went to the Proprietor, who said it was already, and had been before my arrival, promised to a gentleman who had been sleeping on the floor ; but he would order me a Cab and I could drive to a Boarding House highly recommended, where he hoped I could be comfortably accommodated. I went and was cordially received, and though not fond of Boarding Houses, found a nice family and had a pleasant stay. In the morning at the table I met a Mr. Glasson, an old gentleman from Cornwall, England — a big, burly, sensible man, with whom it was pleasant and pi’ofitable to talk. I had intended to return to Sydney by the Morning Train on Thursday, but determined to remain over and see the people and the Fair; the day opened with such a bright Sky and delicious temperature. The Boarding House is on high ground, and from it I could see over the Town and the sur- rounding country ; the former containing about eight thousand people, but regularly laid out, well built, and spread over an extensive area; the latter the finest agricultural region I have seen, well fenced, and cultivated principally in grain, and now green and luxuriant looking in the extreme. Mr. Glasson and I walked to the Fair Grounds and strolled about among the Exhibits. Being a Squatter and a Stock man, he could inform me about the various Breeds and Exhibits, and their adapta- bility to the country, and the profitableness of the business. The principal Breed of Sheep is the Merino — more valuable because of their wool and hardiness. He was very communicative, and told me the story of his life, and how from poor beginning he and his had prospered since his emigration here more than thirty years ago. I was not impressed with the Stock — Horses, Cattle or Sheep. I think we make an Exhibit at our Winchester Fair quite its equal; rather, indeed, its superior ; and thus, also, with the rest of the Exhibit — our Ladies’ Department much superior. 286 LETTER NO. I4. Mr. Glasson called away, I wandered alone. Coming to an Exhibit of Wines and Preserved Fish, the man having them in charge called me up and insisted upon my tasting of his Exhibits, especially his Australian Orange Wine — out of which grew a long talk about American and Australian Wines in comparison with European. He was a Spaniard, but spoke English perfectly, and knew his subject ; and our conversation became interesting to me and instructive. He had a number of other things on Exhibition, and he took me around, talking as we walked ; and he seeming to become interested, kept with me ; and when at last I left the building, deserting his Exhibits, and leaving his customers to take care of themselves, accompanied me over the Grounds, talking all the while. I do not know what he saw in me so fascinating. I strolled over the Town — save the Fair, a quiet place. In it there is a lai’ge and excellent Court House, and a new Poman Cath- olic Church and Convent of considerable proportions, and many excel- lent business houses and private residences, and is regarded as the second City in the Colony of New South Wales. Mrs. Street is the name of the Lady in charge of the Boarding House — an intelligent, educated Lady; and when not wandering around, she together with her family, made my time comfortable and pleasant ; especially after Dinner, we gathered in the Parlor, and they listened to my Travel talk till half-past nine o’clock, the time for me to leave for the Train. I went to the Ticket Office to secure a Sleeper. The Station Master, the Station Agent, the Inspector of Public Schools of Bathurst, and a gentleman whose name I did not hear, were present. We engaged in conversation, and in a little while drifted into high themes. The unknown gentleman was a free thinker, and launching boldly out, gave expression to his views, and before I was conscious of it, I had taken the floor and grappled him. They stood and listened most attentively whilst I talked, and became more excited than myself. The Train was delayed nearly an hour, for some reason or other, and during this time our talk continued. My adversary was very smart, though not so well armed and equipped as myself, and soon he was discomfited and the field was mine. When the Train arrived, and the hour for my departure came, the Station Master, by this time enthused, as were the other auditors, seized my Satchel, declaring he would carry it to the Sleeper, and look after my Berth for me, which he did, saying, when he bade me Good Bye, HA WKESB URY RI VER. 287 he would like me to return, that he might, to the best of his ability, show me attention worthy of my position and learning, and brilliant powers of speech. This was exceedingly complimentary and unex- pected, for I was simply, unconsciously to myself, letting the great subjects speak themselves, not thinking of any effect, nor desiring it. I had a comfortable night’s rest ; reached here at about half-past six in the morning, took a Cab, and was soon again in my Room, where I am writing these lines. Same City and Hotel, Friday and Saturday, April 18 and 19, 1890. Friday, I did not leave the City — simply strolled about its streets and prepared for other outings. Saturday, I devoted to a trip up the Hawkesbury River, honored with the title of the Australian Rhine. I travelled on one of Cook’s Excursion Tickets — his Office is nearly opposite to the Hotel. Such a trip, composed of several links of different modes of conveyance, is rendered more convenient and sure by his arrangements. Leaving the City by the Northern Train at nine o’clock, I went to the Hawkesbury River, a distance of thirty-six miles, crossing the Parramatta on the Bridge near Ryde, of which I spoke on my Excursion up that River. From that time to the Hawkesbury, or Brooklyn, or Peat’s Ferry, for it is called by all three names, the Road traverses the Bush or Forest, which from the size of its growths indicates poverty of soil. Yet at times the scene is striking all around, the trees prevailing without break, especially when, from elevations, — the Road rising from five to seven hundred feet — looking Westward, the rolling foliage extended seemingly unbroken to the Blue Mountains, bounding the horizon. There is scant cultivation anywhere in view. At the River, descending from the Car, by a walk along the em- bankment on which the Train runs before it reaches the Bridge which spans the River, we came to the Landing of the Little Steamer, which carried us to Sackville Reach on the upper waters of the Hawkes- bury. This River is made up of the Grose and the Nepean, which, you remember, we saw the other day traversing and beautifying the Emu Plains. The Folding Card and Map of Cook I sent you with ray last Letter will enable you accurately to follow me. 288 LETTER NO. U. The distance to Sackville Reach is fifty-two miles. The River narrows whilst we ascend, appearing like the Parramatta to be more an Inlet of the Sea, and a continuation of Broken Bay, as that River is of Port Jackson — Sydney’s Harbor. The Scenery is good, but too much of it : if it had been half as long, it would have been twice as good. On either hand, the entire distance, were high lands covered with Bush, the elevations of varied outline, and picturesque, but having no claim whatever to comparison with the Rhine. Now and then, on the low grounds, or in nooks, were homes, with patches of cultivated land — the houses humble and the area of production small. The chief growths were Indian Corn and Oranges : the former of a kind we would regard a bad crop ; the latter, though cultivated, poor in comparison with those I have seen in Florida. But you have, doubtless, heard me say, or I have remarked on other of my Tours, that I have never seen Corn grow anywhere in the World to the proportion, either of stock or grain, that it does on our best lands ; nor have I ever seen the Orange cultivated like the Groves of Florida. The Bush, too, grows upon poor, rocky hills, and of no value, from its size and species, for Lumber ; nor were it cut off or destroyed, would it leave any soil exposed fit for the plough. Whether it could be utilized for Vineyards I do not know; for I saw no evidence any- where of an effort in that direction. If the length of the Steamer’s run had been fifteen or twenty miles, it would have been more interesting; but fifty -two miles were too much, and one is wearied by the sameness. There is no great variety in the inlets and gulches, and open areas which make the Landscape, and the eye has no relief. To a low-Country man, accustomed to the flats and plains, some enthusiasm might be aroused ; but to one who has seen Nature luxuriating in strength and beauty, the Hawkes- bury is not a success. At Sackville Reach, Cook’s Excursionists found a Coach ready to take them to Windsor, ten miles across the Country, where we reached a Station on the Rail. Tliere were six of us, and we had plenty of room and a pleasant ride in a good vehicle and over a good road. It was after dark, and the Southern Celestial Hemisphere was ablaze with Stars. I must name again the Southern Cross, which I have learned greatly to admire. Here it mounts into the Zenith, and is, in the brilliantly clear Sky, a brilliant Constellation, with its Corona, SYDNEY. 289 its Pointers, and itself, thick studded with nebulae in the Milky Way. I will never, however imperfect its form, underrate again the glorious Southern Cross. It must be seen in its own Celestial Hemisphere to recognize how it is here enthroned, the Chief of its Constellations, We took Supper at Windsor, on our Excursion Ticket, and then came on by Train, reaching here at ten o’clock, a distance of thirty- six miles — a total circuit of one hundred and thirty- four miles — with the delightful weather, a pleasant jaunt. Of course I had much talk with different people : one a gentleman from London ; he gave me his card — Robert G. West, Manager of a Bank — about Banking in Australia, and the effect of its Institutions on the present and future prosperity of the Colonies ; and two Ladies, one old, the other young, gi’eat travellers, also Londoners, about their Travels and mine; the older, an intelligent, well-informed woman; the younger equally so, who had resided in South Carolina ; and both warm friends of the South, claiming to know the superiority of its people, and their culture, and freely expressing their admiration and sympathy — to which I listened, naturally, with ready ear. The Papers in Australia have been commenting, some sevei’ely, some jocosely, on a Cablegram informing the Antipodes that the State of Virginia has passed a Law legalizing Prize Fighting. Legisla- tures now-a-days do such queer things, that I could neither admit nor deny ; Virginia not being exempt of late years from the charge of singularity, to put it in the mildest form. Same City and Hotel, And on Way to Brisbane by Rail, Sxmday, April 20, 1890. This Morning my new English Banker Friend called to see me, to get me to give him information about a trip across the Continent — he proposing to return to the Old Country by the United States. Of course it gave me pleasure to comply. Our Consul, Mr. Griffin, called to see me, also, and spent several hours, and we had much talk about the Colonies, and other subjects. I determined yesterday to go to Brisbane by Rail. I can return in time for our Steamer, which sails on the 26th of this month. I must utilize my time, having seen Sydney and the objects of interest around. I cannot utilize that time better than by visiting the Colony 19 290 LETTER NO. U. of Queensland and its Capital. I saw the Station Master yesterday, and he said he would be at his Post at ten o’clock to-day, and if I would telephone him, he wonld secure me a Berth in the Sleeper, The Proprietor telephoned for me, and the matter was promptly attended to. When I went to the Station he met and escorted me to the Sleeper, and saw me comfortably fixed for the Journey, leaving Sydney at seven o’clock in the Evening. From Sydney to Brisbane Rail, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, A'pril 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 1890. From Sydney to Brisbane is seven hundred and twenty-two miles, a long, continuous ride by Rail. I left Sydney at seven o’clock, p. m. on Sunday, taking the Sleeper at once, and having a comfortable night’s rest : the Sleeper after Pullman’s fashion. Early on Monday Morning I changed to a Compartment Sitting Car, of the English Coach pattern, and on Monday Evening again took a Sleeper at Wallangarra, on the borders of the Colonies of New South Wales and Queensland, and arrived in Brisbane at six o’clock, a. m., Tues- day — two nights and a day of continuous travel. It is four hundred and ninety miles from Sydney to Wallangarra, and two hundred and thirty-two from Wallangarra to Brisbane. My fellow-passengers on Monday were agreeable people, and the hours passed pleasantly and profitably to me. Among them was a Captain of Volunteers, returning to his home from a Colonial Encamp- ment near Sydney. He was a clever fellow, and jovial, and gave me what I wanted to know about the domestic soldiers and soldiering. The Volunteers in the Colony of New South Wales are organized into Field and Line, amounting to two Brigades, and are convened for nine days, once a year, in Camp, to undergo the hardships of war and learn the noble Art. Another was a Major of the English Reg- ulars, stationed in Ceylon, now travelling on furlough. The talk, under my direction, drifted into fields where they had information, and I conferred upon them, without suspecting my intent, the univer- sal gratification of talking upon what one knows best : the Australian Volunteer telling me of the Country through which we were passing, and where he resides, and of his hopes and aspirations for the future SYDNEY TO EEISBANE. 291 of the Island Continent ; the British Regular giving his views of the stability of English Rule in the Orient, and how she will hold India in spite of Russia, esteeming altogether too lightly the danger from Russia’s power, and the insecurity of England’s rule in Hindoostau. Your Map will show you the trend of the Road : seeking North- ward Newcastle on the Coast, one hundred and two miles, and then diverging Northwest via Maitland, a flourishing place, contesting with Bathurst the next position to Sydney in number of inhabitants. At a place called Murrurundi, two hundred and seventeen miles from Sydney, the Road crosses the Mountains, a continuation of the Blue Mountains we crossed, you remember, farther South in going to Bathurst, and here called the Liverpool Range, reaching on the West an elevated plateau denominated the Liverpool Plains, lying from twelve to fifteen hundred feet above the Sea, much of it regarded favor- ably for pastiu’e or tillage. Passing over these Plains we come to a region called New England, and the Road again seeks Northeastward the Mountains, and ascending them, moves almost due North along their trend, traversing a great Plateau for more than four hundred miles through New South Wales and into Queensland — from fifteen hundred to upwards of four thousand feet above the Sea — at one point, Ben Lomond reaching four thousand four hundred and seventy-one. From a place called High Fields, in Queensland, of about fifteen hundred feet elevation, not quite two hundred miles West of Bris- bane, it descends continuously to that City. Here are the famous Darling Downs, the so-called “Garden of Queensland.” I am at a loss to know why the Road should thus pursue the Mountain’s Crest for such a number of miles. On the lower gi’ounds we traversed much of it was in cultivation. I observed many fields in Corn, but of a growth we would call a poor crop ; much in Wheat and Potatoes looking well. The elevated Mountain Plateau was in Bush and Grass, through and over which Sheep and fine Cattle ranged. The areas were divided by substantial Rail and Wir6 fences. The Bush or Forest in many places was jjrimeval — if a sorry growth of Eucalypti can be dignified with that noble word — often, the trees were belted or burned, or both, and stood the skeletons of their former selves, a common sight I have told you in Australia. Underneath them was a thick growth of Grass, well set and green from the inspi- ration of the luxuriant season, and evidently of good quality for food, for the animals were fat and sleek. But these are the Domains, as 292 LETTER NO. U. are likewise the lower Plains, I was informed, where frightful droughts sometimes prevail, and the abundant pasturage is turned to tinder, and Sheep die by the thousands. I told you of the vast fields of Tussock in New Zealand. I have seen scarce any of it in Australia, a few small areas on my trip to Ballarat. This grass is not unlike our own blue or lawn grass, and certainly most excellent food in such a Season as we are having here, judging from the animals’ kelter. Towns and Villages are scattered through the Country, generally grouped about the Stations, built of frame and of the same Australa- sian style of Architecture which I have hitherto described ; and taken all in all, I would say the people are well lodged. The scenery can hardly be classed among the very high. Now and then a pretty cul- tivated little Landscape would open in the lower Country. On the elevated Plateau, where Mountains rose above the general level, they never attained to anything called grand — almost invariably clad in Bush ; sometimes of sterile, rocky soil ; sometimes clothed in grass such as I have spoken of, and evidently fertile ; and here and there the piles of upturned earth, indicating the search for precious stones and metals; but the Bush or Forest itself almost entirely of the melancholy Gum Tree, only varied by its ever melancholy varieties. I must not, however, leave the impression that this tree is always thus gruesome. Some of its individual growths are among the largest on the Earth, rivalling, if not surpassing, the Sequoia Gigantea, the Big Trees of California. One of them was supposed to have been, when standing, five hundred feet in height; thus, though not equal- ling in girth the Big Trees, surpassing every one of them in height, or any other tree that man has come across. Some of these are still standing on the Southern face of the dividing range in the Colony of Victoria, North of Gippsland, I am told. When I reached Brisbane early on the morning of Tuesday, I took a Cab dr Hansom, and with my Satchel drove at once to the Imperial Hotel, where I chose a Room and fixed up and rested till Breakfast ; after which I inquired of the Proprietor about my acquaintances ; Colonel, now Judge, Mein, whom you remember well on my First Tour, and whom I deeply regret not seeing, and who lives four miles in the Country ; but the Court House, where he has his office, is just opposite the Hotel ; Professor Shelton, you know, I met on the Steamer coming to take charge of the Agricultural Department of BRISBANE. 293 Queensland, now lives in Brisbane, and the Land Department Build- ing, in which the Proprietor supposed he had his Office, adjoins the Court House. I went out to look for them. On inquiring at the Court House, I learned that Judge Mein was absent, holding Court at Rockhampton, a distant place. His dwelling was too far out for me, with my limited time, to call on Mrs. Mein. Going to the Land Office, I was told that Professor Shelton had his Office in the Agricultural Building, in another part of the City. I walked there, but learned that he had gone on a long tour of inspection through the Colony, and would not be back for some time. One other acquaintance was left me — Mr. Sinclair Rowney, the Bookseller, you remember, whom I travelled with in New Zealand, and who was untiring in his courtesy and at- tention. He received me with the utmost cordiality, and ordered a Carriage, the hire of which I insisted upon paying, but which he would not listen to. We drove over the City and into the surrounding Country, visiting the local points of interest. Whilst at the Agri- cultural Department one of the gentlemen there showed me their specimens, and being near the Museum, I also visited that, an excellent collection, quite varied and well preserved. I am struck with the creditable Museums these new Countries and Cities have gathered with much diligence and expenditure of money ; an admirable thing to preserve the data for the future Scientist and Historian of the Country. Not far off from the Museum, on one side, is the New Treasury Department, a building of white stone, which when finished will be a most creditable affair ; and on the other, some few hundred yards away, the Domed Houses of Parliament, also of stone, which they are adding to, both overlooking and not far from the River. My good Friend took me everywhere in the four or five hours we drove : the Botanical Gardens, the Government House, the Parks, old and new, the Streets, hither and thither, the high grounds within or beyond the City limits, whence I could see how the River Bris- bane, a bold, fine stream, coils through the town like a spiral, forming two or three horse-shoes, within which the Houses are gathered. The City, with its fifty thousand people, is handsomely located: some of it on the River’s banks, which now and then, when flushed with recent rains, overflows ; some on high ground, far above it in its wild- est flood. Among the Houses, here and there conspicuous Edifices 294 LETTER NO. U. are seen : the Catholic Cathedral; a Presbyterian Church, handsomer still, with its Gothic spire ; and not a few Private Residences or Business Houses, indicating thrift and its reward. I was told not to look for much in Brisbane ; my observation was agreeably dis- appointing. The River on which it stands, twelve or fifteen miles from the Sea, is of larger import than I thought; Vessels drawing seventeen and eighteen feet can come safely to the Wharves, they told me. My drive was profitable and pleasant. It threatened rain when we started ; proceeding, the clouds drifted off, and left us sunlight and delicious breezes. My Friend procured me some data, which he said would enable me to estimate the resources and promise of Queens- land, and its Capital. It was Lunch time when I returned to the Hotel, and I invited my Friend, who is a Bachelor, to join me; but he pleaded business engagements. There was Roast Pig promised on the Bill of Fare, and I, maybe, imprudently fulfilled the promise; and soon I agonized, and spent the afternoon in vacating it. If I had Charles Lamb near by, the Gentle Elia would have suffered at my hands for beguiling me with his story of the Celestial taste and fragrance of the harmless Roaster; or if I had had some of the Wine which I fell upon, or which fell into me, in Leipsic, at Auerbach’s Kellar, you remember, I would again have tested its potent virtues in a similar affliction. But hav- ing neither the charming Elia to vent my spite upon, nor the nectar from the famous Vault, I just let the trouble alone, and it had to cure itself ; and, sure enough, did. For fear of being delayed, how- ever, which the near departure of the Steamer now forbids, I went early to the Station and laid down in my Berth, where my kind Friend Rowney found me, when he came to bid me Good Bye ! A sound night’s rest on the Rail healed my wounds, and when the morning came I was myself again. [I wrote to Mr. Rowney on my return home, in recognition of his great kindness and courtesy, and received the following Response, which contains matter of sufficient interest to print as part of the Tour : BRISBANE— LETTER FROM SINCLAIR ROWNEY. 295 EOWNEY BROTHERS, WILLIAM EOWNEY. SINCLAIR ROWNEY. Importers of Books and Stationery, Printers and Bookbinders. Brisbane, May 15, 1891. Hon. Fred. W. M. Holliday, My Dear Governor , — My delay in answering your welcome Letter was caused by my being poisoned from Gas escaping from a nail hole in the Pipe under my Bed-room floor. I have no sense of smell, consequently had three nights of it before I was told about the cause of my illness. I was a week only from business, but have not felt well since, and never have I felt the same inveterate dislike to Letter writing as I have since my illness. We had a visit from my Sister, Mrs. Ritchie, since you were here. She sends her respects and kind wishes to you, and was glad you enjoyed your Tour. Queensland is looking her best — plenty of rain, good Crops, fat Cattle, and splendid Sheep ; still everybody is com- plaining of dull times. Now why is this so? Every one I speak to about it says that the Strikes are the cause of it. Well, that may be partly true, but I have come to the conclusion that the real mischief lies in Land Booms. An allotment in Queen Street was sold for seven hundred pounds per foot frontage — the purchaser borrowing the money to pay for it at six or seven per cent. But as he cannot get it in Queensland at less than six per cent — say six ; Tiventy-five feet, at seven hundred per foot, is - ^^17,500 Say the Building cost ----- 3,500 Here you have a total cost of - _ _ £21,000 Interest at six per cent amounts to twelve hundred and sixty pounds, or twenty-four pounds, five shillings a week. The population of Brisbane and suburbs is about seventy thousand, and the whole of Queensland about four hundred and thirty thousand. Compare the above prices with those of your Cities of the same size, and I think you will agree with me that three hundred pounds per foot is a very high price for any Land in Brisbane. 296 LETTER NO. U. We have had a great many failures since you were here, caused by over speculation in Land and in Gold Mining. Unregistered Bills of Sale have been given ; the holder has taken possession, very much to the disgust and great loss of the confiding Creditor. A Bill of Sale is legal here as soon as it is signed ; but there is a good deal of agi- tation at present over what appears to be swindles, and insisting that the Bill of Sale Act be repealed. I am Posting a Tourist’s Guide to you, in hopes you may glean information from it. I am most truly yours, Sinclair Eowney.] My company in the compartment of the seated Coach during the daylight ride was a Lady, with her servant and three children ; but she was a Lady, and whilst her time was taken up in feeding them with all sorts of things she had with her in Tiffin Baskets, and, there- fore, could not talk with me, whenever a fresh package was opened, it was tendered me, and I was not allowed to be disturbed in any way by the brats. About nightfall, at a place called Werris Creek, I again took a Sleeper ; and after another comfortable night’s rest, reached here at six o’clock this, Thursday, morning, and came to my Room, where I am writing these lines, hale and hearty as when I started on the four days’ and nights’ long jannt. The remainder of the day I spent in finally arranging for my pass- age on the Steamer Australien of the Messageries Maritimes — French Line. She is a very large and fine Ship, seven thousand five hun- dred tons, the largest upon which I have ever travelled. The Agents have been exceedingly polite and have given me a State-Room to myself, and promised every attention and courtesy for a hapjiy voyage. We sail on Saturday, day after to-morrow, at three o’clock in the afternoon. The line of travel is from Sydney to Melbourne, thence to Adelaide, thence to King George’s Sound, and there leav- ing Australia, direct to the Island of Mah6, one of the Seychelles, a Group North of Madagascar, distant from Sydney six thousand and three miles. Here we will change Steamers, making sharp connec- tions with another of the same Line and proceed to the Island of Mauritius, and thence to Natal and Cape Town. My journey now SYDNEY. 297 on is Homeward, and every day and hour will bring me nigher to you all. Doubtless, that to you is joyful news. I have told you of Mr. and Mrs. Nead. They at one time thought of going direct to Europe via Suez ; but have determined to accom- pany me. They are accomplished travellers, having been abroad for nearly five years, peregrinating the World. Maybe I have mentioned they are Philadelphians, and people of wealth ; and he is active and intelligent, and gathers information of every sort needful to a tourist ; indeed, quite spoils me, for I don’t bother about preparation, he making all arrangements and pi’ovisos for me. I think I will find them most agreeable and useful companions. Since I have been at this Hotel, we have occupied the same table, together with a Mrs. Smith, wife of a Purser on one of the Vessels of the Orient-San Francisco Line, and a Mr. Kennedy and Mr. Wheeler, two young Canadians, connected with New York Insurance Companies, intelli- gent and educated gentleman — a pleasant company. Now and then we are joined by Mr. Booth and his Wife, who live a short distance in the Country. He was once a famous Temperance Lecturer ; now, also, an Insurance Agent, an agreeable, gentlemanly man. This afternoon, Mrs. Morse, wife of Captain Morse of the Ala- meda, with whom, you remember, I had such a delightful Voyage from San Francisco to Auckland, and a Miss Firth, of this City, called to see me at the Hotel. Miss Firth was, also, one of the passengers, and I then made her acquaintance. Mrs. Morse remained over one sailing in Sidney. They said they had been inquiring for me, wondering where I was; and meeting with Mrs. Smith, she told them I was here, and they determined to come and see me, thinking it unreasonable to expect me to call on them. It was very considerate and kind. Mrs. Morse said the Captain had recovered from the Grippe, with which, you remember, he was sick coming out ; but a Cablegi’am had been received, stating that his Ship had been detained again in San Francisco waiting for the English Mails; but it did not say whether the delay was on the Atlantic or across the Continent. Sydney, Australia, Empire Hotel, Friday, April 25, J 890. I will now close this Letter and leave it with our Consul, to for- ward by the next Mail to San Francisco. Whilst I travel to you 298 LETTER NO. H. AVestward, it will be hurrying with news for you Eastward. I will continue to write and send Letters by every opportunity. But curi- ous transformation — my Letters soon, by the rotundity of the Earth, will no longer come from the Setting, but will reach you from this time on from toward the Risino; Sun. I am at a loss to know what to tell you about your Letters to me. I have never been so bothered on any Tour, owing to the long links of travel and the infrequency of the Mails, some Letters cannot overtake me on the Route. I have therefore resolved to tell you, after the receipt of this, to write to me, care of the old address of my Second Tour ; Brown, Shipley & Co., Founder’s Court, Lothbury, E. C., London, England, When I get to Cape Town I hope to receive a batch, which will meet me from you all there, and cheer me up. No Letters can now overtake me before I reach Cape Town. My Memorandum shows that in Letter No. 11 to you in February, I request you *to write to Cape Town, care Bank of Africa. I, of course, expect to stop in England only long enough to take Steamer thence to New York ; but the receipt of your regular Letters there will advise me of yourselves and brighten my voyage home. Maybe, too, your missing Letters may come along and give me cheer. I do not know where I shall land in England from Cape Town — I mean the Steamer’s terminus of run ; but further on can learn, and telegraph Brown, Shipley & Co. to forward. Notify Charles of this. I hope you are all well, and things are going smoothly with you and with Taylor at the Old Home. I have had him on my mind constantly, and wished I was at home to help him in righting up the fire damages. By this time, however, he is through his troubles, I doubt not, and things are moving smoothly again. How is the Doctor? I hope he got through the Winter pleasantly, and also Mary and Mag. I must now close this and take it to the Consul’s, and start it to you. Love to Cousin Mary and Cousin Fred. I hope they are doing well. And kind remembrances to our Neighbors and all inquiring friends. With tenderest love for all, F. SYDNEY. 299 [No. 15.] Sydney, Austkalia, Empire Bank, Friday, April 25, 1890. My Dear Mary , — This morning I finished Letter No. 14 to yonr Mother, and mailed it through our Consul to your Uncle Taylor. It will not leave till the regular Steamer for San Francisco, on May 14 ; but I thought it safer to commit it to him to forward with his own and Official Mail than to the Post Office. This Letter I will send on by the French Steamer Australien, which I take to-morrow, when I leave her at the Island of Mahe. My further course thence I have explained to your Mother in my last Letter. The Consul was absent from his Office when I went, but the mat- ter was attended to by the Vice-Consul, who promised the Letter should go without fail by the next Steamer to California. These Colonies being out of the Postal Union, the rates are very high. It would be interesting to you to know that the Letter cost one dollar in postage ; the last, in three Envelopes, cost three dollars — one each. Whilst at the Consul’s Office, Mr. James Wilson, head of the Com- mei’cial. Pastoral and Agricultural Association of New South Wales, came in with several bundles of Documents, saying he had brought them at the Consul’s request for Governor Holliday. The Vice- Consul told him I was the gentlemen, and introduced us; where- upon we had a conversation about Australia and her destinies. I expressed my opinions pretty freely, and for an hour or so we talked, they listening attentively, and expressing approval of my views. Mr. Wilson invited me to his Office, near by, where he showed me numerous Maps, setting out the topography of New South Wales : showing her Mineral resources, the Artesian Wells that have been bored, the rainfall in various localities in series of years, the regions invaded by the Rabbits and their spread, and the Pastoral and Agricultural occupancy and resources. I have alluded to the lay of the Country and its River drainage, and how their water is dried up by the Sun, or disappears in Inland 300 LETTER NO. 15. Lakes, never reaching the Sea. Under the reasonable inference that the water seeks subterranean outlets to the Ocean, as in the Canter- bury Plains, New Zealand, or in South America on the Western Coast, of which I told you in my Travels there, they have dug, West of the Mountain Range, numerous Artesian Wells, which in volume of flow have quite confirmed their inferences. This suc- cess has given the people of the Colony hopes that one day they will be able to obviate the terrible effects of the droughts to which they are liable, and render safer their profits, both of Pasturage and Agriculture. The Rabbits I have not spoken of in Australia, though I had such a quantity to say of them in New Zealand. This has been not because they do not exist here, but because in my travels I have not come across them ; they have not prevailed in the sections I have visited. But Mr. Wilson’s Maps showed me how first turned loose in Victoria, they have progressed with amazing rapidity through New South Wales and Queensland, spreading terror wherever they have gone. Immense sums of money have been appropriated and spent by their respective Governments in building wire fences, of which I told you ; but up to this time seemingly without avail — they still “ go marching on.” They have yet discovered no certain exterminator or I’emedy. I spoke of the Rabbitter and the value of both the skin and carcass in New Zealand, and the almost absolute certainty, I thought, of the Rabbit’s fate in those Islands. I also spoke of the difficulties in Australia, owing to the less value, by reason of the climate, both of the skin and carcass, and their greater fecundity. These conclusions, I learn here, are well drawn, and Mr. Wilson could suggest no hopeful outcome from the difficulty. He gave me a number of papers to read upon the various subjects which come under the supervision of his Bureau, which he was sure would afford me pleasure and enlightenment. I insert a few extracts from various sources to give you some idea of how this, with us, harmless creature has in the Antipodes grown into such a frightful pest, with the beginning of a pair in the Colony of Victoria. They have advanced Northward across New South Wales aud into Queensland, scattering fright and ruin in their pro- gress — more terrible than an Army with Banners. A USTBALIA— BABBITS. 301 “ Rabbits in Australia. HOW THEY HAVE INCREASED, AND EFFORTS AT EXTERMINATION. The San Francisco Chronicle says : “ I am deeply interested in the extermination of Rabbits in Aus- tralia and New Zealand, and am on my way to those Colonies to watch the passing of the new Act in New South Wales,” said Charles W. Kent, of London, last night. “You would like some statistics? To commence with, on careful calculation it is now settled that two Rabbits in ten years will mul- tiply to 70,000,000. That is a moderate figure. .Rabbits have par- ticular advantage for thriving in Australia, and have used those advantages for forty years, since they were introduced. In , New South Wales, the Government expended over $4,000,000 from 1883 to 1890 endeavoring to extei’minate them. Besides that, a greater sum has been expended in private moneys. In one year, 25,250,000 skins had royalty paid upon them. “ Now, there is another side to this question of extermination, and that is the Rabbit killer’s and the Rabbit-skin dealer’s interest. A killer gets 2 cents a head royalty from the Government for destroy- ing the animal’s life. He then sells the skin at from 4 to 6 cents. On the meat, at the canning factories, he averages 2 to 4 cents. It is a nice, easy way of making money. The skins are bale-pressed and exported to London. In that City there is a general auction sale of skins every six weeks. The sales average from 1,500 to 2,000 bales, and the average to a bale is 200 skins. “ There are ten companies in Australia and four in New Zealand engaged in the Rabbit-skin trade. Of these, one-half add the meat- canning to their business. You will understand, therefore, that there is a big monopoly which is not at all anxious to see the Rabbits exterminated. Interested with it is a very large number of the popu- lation, who find Rabbit-killing more remunerative and less hard work than farming. “ Pasteur endeavored to exterminate the Rabbits by inoculation with chicken cholera. It is well known to those behind the scenes that he did not get a fair trial, and, in fact, was so hindered and hampered that he withdrew his agents from further experimenting. 302 LETTER NO. 15. “ The question has come u[) before the Government again, and a bill is now before the Sydney Legislature asking for a vote to build a brick wall entirely around the Agricultural boundary of the Colony of New South Wales. Rabbits will not burrow lower than two and a-half feet, and it is proposed to sink the wall to that depth. The wall being once built, a general extermination of Rabbits within that inclosure will be commenced and carried through. The other Colo- nies will watch the experiment with great interest, and if it succeeds, will ])robably all follow suit. Such a course would confine the Rab- bits to the great Austi’alian Bush, in whose sandy deserts they would soon die out. “ What use is made of all these Rabbit skins? Why, the hat on your head is made of them. The hair is plucked ofP the pelt by hand. A fortune awaits the man who can invent a machine to do it. A fine blue fur is then left on the pelt. The skin is then pared away from the fur by delicate machinery — machinery so fine that when the last paring is cut ofF the fur sometimes hangs in one filmy section. This is worked up into felt. Ordinary hats are made from Rabbit skin. A better class is made from Hare skin. The best are made from Nutria, a kind of Water Rat trapped in Buenos Ayres, and then come Beaver and Musquash, obtained in the United States and Canada. The Cowboy wants the best hat in the World, and as he pays for it he gets it. The Nutria Felt stands wet, and remains stiff-brimmed after soaking, because it is made from the fur of a water animal. The American Jack-rabbit is of no use at all to the trade. The English Rabbit supplies the best fur, like silk, but, of course, not water-proof. Then comes the New Zealand Rabbit, followed by the Australian. “ We used to export hats in quantity from England to America, but now the Americans can dress skins as well as the English, and they make all their own hats, importing the fur from us, of course. I do not understand why the United States does not import Rabbit skins direct from Australia, seeing the enormous quantity which it buys from England. At a rough guess, I should calculate the United States manufactures 65,000 hats every day, while England manu- factures about 40,000. The largest hat manufactory in the World is the Brussels, which turns out 10,000 hats a day. “ Why am I interested in the extermination of Rabbits in Aus- tralia? Well, I am interested in one of the chief fur companies in A USTBALIA—JiABBITS. 303 London, and we want to see our English Rabbit protected against the marvellously multiplying Australian competitors.” “Australia’s Pest. TWENTY MILLION DESCENDANTS FROM ONE PAIR OF RABBITS WMTHIN FIVE YEARS. The plague of Rabbits in Australia cannot be described without seeming exaggeration to those who have not had experience of it, says an article in Scribner. Originally introduced in a Colony of about a score of individuals by a Squatter near Melbourne, who thought their familiar presence on his station would “ remind him of home,” they have kept the recollection of England so fresh in the minds of Pastoralists to tempt them to very treasonable language concerning her whenever Rabbits are mentioned. The fecundity of the Rabbit is amazing, and his invasion of remote districts swift and mysterious. Careful estimates show that under favorable conditions a pair of Australian Rabbits will produce six litters a year, averaging five individuals each. As the otfspring themselves begin breeding at the age of six months, it is shown that, at this rate, the original pair might be responsible in five years for a progeny of over 20,000,000. That the original score which were brought to the Country have propagated after some such ratio no one can doubt who has seen the enormous hordes that now devastate the land in certain districts. In all but the remoter sections, however, the Rabbits are now fairly under control ; one Rabbitter with a pack of dogs supervises stations where one hundred were employed ten years ago, and with ordinary vigilance the Squatters have little to fear. Millions of the animals have been killed by fencing in the water-holes and dams during a dry season, whereby they died of thirst and lay in enormous piles against the obstructions they had frantically and vainly sti'iven to climb, and poisoned grain and fruit have killed myriads more. A fortune of £25,000, offered by the New South Wales Government, still awaits the man who can invent some means of general destruction ; and the knowledge of this fact has brought to the notice of the various Colonial Governments some very original devices.” 304 LETTER NO. 15. “It is estimated that the increase in Rabbits in Australia during the last three years is about 13,000,000. The experts state that 89,000,000 acres are now infested with the plagues. In the dry Country the Rabbits have taken to eating wood, particularly the ten- der bark of the scrub vegetation. By so doing they destroy a large means of keeping the Sheep alive in long periods of drought.” In the afternoon I took a small Steamer and went down the length of the Harbor, to near its outlet into the Sea, and then turned North- Northwest, up Middle Harbor, its largest Inlet. I had thus not only a fine view of Port Jackson — the entire Harbor below Sidney — but of this, also, its most beautiful section. I was not disappointed. Middle Harbor is the finest bit of scenery I have come across in Australia, and the entire trip quite equalled my anticipations of the whole. One of the Maps I sent you gives an admirable outline — not unlike a Lizard : its head the outlet to the Ocean, its body the Main Harbor, its legs exaggerated in size, number and inequality, the Inlets, its tail the River Parramatta. Thus, also. Broken Bay, North of Sydney Harbor, a portion of which we traversed on our visit to the Hawkesbury, presents a not dissimilar scene; that River forming the tail of the extended Saurian. On the shores of Middle Harbor there is a Picnic Ground, on which the Duke of Edinburgh was entertained some yeax’s ago, and whilst enjoying the festivities was shot at and near being killed. The spot was in sight of and near the Landing where we stopped. The would-be assassin was tried and condemned to death. The Queen reprieved him, but the reprieve came too late; he was hung befoi’e its arrival in Austi’alia. After dark I walked down George Street, where the Chinese most do congregate ; they are not in that locality alone, but their stores and houses are sandwiched with the whites. Thei’e, too, I witnessed a motley scene of sailox’s of many nationalities, a-throwing themselves away : John Chinaixian, watching to take them or any other body in ; Hindoos with that sti’ange, keen, fateful look which they ever wear ; Negi’oes just like our own ; and Mohammedans, with their Oriental Costume, moving with that singular air of confidence with which the Pi’ophet seems ever to have inspired his followers. I wandered among them all, with much interest, for an hour or two. SYDNEY. 305 On Board Steamship Austealien, Messageries Maritimes Line, In Harbor of Sydney, Saturday, April 26, 1890. To-day I finished my packing and made ready to start on another link of my long chain. This does not require much time with me, any more than for a tortoise to fix up his house-traps for a move. Whilst thus engaged, the Consul came to go with me to call upon Lord Carrington, the Governor of New South Wales. He said he mentioned to the Governor my presence in the Country, and proposed to bring me to see him. He replied that he would be delighted to receive a call, having heard of my visit here. I took a Carriage and we drove to the Mansion. You have seen the great consideration and kindness which has met me everywhere. Had I accepted the tenders of hospitality from, to me, hitherto total strangers, my whole time would have been con- sumed and Australia been unseen. You already know my views upon that subject. I will mention to you all, to whom these Letters are written, as I would speak to my other self, that I hear constantly of the kind things spoken of by those who have met me : of my ability, learning, and modesty; and did I allow it, conspicuous atten- tions would be shown me. But that would not only, you well know, be utterly distasteful, but defeat the aim and object of my travel. Lord Carrington received me most cordially, and soon we were engaged in talk about Australia, her things and people, and of ray own Country, especially Virginia. He is a man, I should suppose, of fifty or fifty-five, good-looking, and of excellent, easy manners. He is very popular — making himself agreeable by his forbearance to appear important, or exercising any power; simply tiding on, doing Avhat he can, and more especially in personal and social modes, to make himself acceptable as the Bepresentative of the Throne. We talked of the Economies and Politics of Australasia, and the chief questions involved in her interests and growth. Nothing proceeded from him from which I would infer any great ability and learning, but enough to judge of his capacity to observe the current of affairs, and to keep himself from troublesome entanglements. Whilst we talked, time sped, and an hour had gone before either of us seemed to feel its lapse. 20 306 LETTER NO. 15. But it was long enough for a Morning Call, and when I moved to go he expressed regret that my stay in the Country was drawing to a close and he could not see more of me. The visit was a very pleasant one, but nothing passed from which I could gather any large ideas of these Anti])odes and their destiny. The things and subjects we discussed, and I expressed my views upon, I will probably, before I close this Letter, give to you, and you will the better understand what we talked about. I brought the Consul to his office and we parted, with many thanks for his uniform courtesy and politeness, and for the interest he had manifested, that I should see the Governor, and for an interview. After Lunch I bade farewell to Mrs. Smith and Mr. and Mrs. Booth ; our Canadian friends, Kennedy and Wheeler, accompanying us to the Boat to see us fairly off. My Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nead, came after. In a little while we were safely aboard, and quartered in our Rooms. But no sooner was this done than it was announced that the arrival of a Steamer from the Island of New Caledonia with freight, which had to be transferred, would delay us till to-morrow morning at day- light, which necessitated our staying on the Australien all night. [When the Consul and I parted I told him I would write on my arrival at Home, and tell him how the residue of my Tour tided. I did so, and received the following Response : 3Iy Dear Governor Holliday , — Sydney, Australia, October 25, 1890. I very much thank you for your kind and interesting Letter. I send you the Australian Hand Book for 1890. It cost 10s. 6d., and the Po.stage 4s. Qd . — say altogether, $3.66. This amount you can send to my Daughter, Miss Virgiline Griffin, care of Mrs. A. M. Dunsford, Vineland, Jefferson County, Missouri, by Post Office Order, who will be glad to get it. I wanted to send you a copy of my Book on New South Wales, but it is out of print. Mr. J. B. Beauregard, 89 Market Street, Sydney, managed to secure 100 copies, but I have been unable to see him as to wliat price he intends to dispose of them. SYDNEY— LETTER FROM G. W. GRIFFIN. 307 I have put my Book on Samoa to press. Mr. W. G. Markham, New York, writes that he is arranging with Messrs. Lippincott, of Philadelphia, to print it, and that its publication will reimburse me, in a measure, for my hardships in the Islands. After you left. Lord Carrington expressed great regret that your stay here was so short. He said that he wished to show you more attention than he did, both on your account and mine. He begged me to send his very kind regards to you. His Excellency said it did him good to meet so enthusiastic and able a Champion of one of the proudest Commonwealths in the American Union. I regret that he is to take his departure in a few days for England. He is to be suc- ceeded by Lord Jersey. Lord Carrington is one of my best friends, and to lose him is to lose something out of my life, which, at best, is far from being a briglit one. I am working harder than ever. I have just finished a long Report on the Great Labor Strike. I hope you get the Consular Reports to the Government at Washington. I am sure they will send them to you. I had the misfortune to injure my right hand, and have lost the use of one of the fingers, but amputation was not necessary. Give my kind regards to Mr. and Mrs. Nead, and accept the same for yourself, aud believe me, as ever. Your Friend, G. W. Griffik. I complied with his request, and sent the money to his Daughter. Waiting some days and not receiving a response, and fearing the Letter’s miscarriage, I wrote again and received the following re- sponse, whicli is so simple, sweet, and unaffected, that there can be no objection to printing it with her Father’s, as an interesting memo- rial of the Tour. Mr. Griffin died not a great while after our delight- ful meeting in Sydney. De Soto, Mo., January 17, 1891. Dear Qoverncrr Holliday , — Your Letter containing Post Office Order for $3.66 was duly re- ceived. You must pardon my negligence in acknowledging receipt of the kind favor. To have a line from any one who I know is a friend of my Dear Father, now so far away, always gives me the 308 LETTER NO. 15. very greatest pleasure and always finds a ready response. But this neg- lect, or rather seeming neglect, could not have been obviated ; so you must not think of it for a moment. Should you write to my Dear Father, please mention my Letter to you, but under no circumstances mention the want of punctuality in replying to you. Trusting this may find you quite well, Most truly yours, ViEGiLiNE Griffin.] This is the largest Steamer on which I have travelled — five hundred and ten feet in length, forty-five in width, and of seven thousand five hundred and six tonnage. It is finished handsomely, but not with the wasteful and needless extravagance of some I have travelled on. Many of the Officers and employees speak English, and we have no trouble whatever with the Language. It has three Classes — Fir.st, Second, and Steerage — and three Decks. On the first, or lower Deck, are the State-Rooms, or sleeping compartments ; on the next are the Dining and Music and Social Saloons; on the third or upper, are the Smoking and Reading Rooms, and of some of the Officers. The second and third are fine Promenade Decks, the most spacious and delightful I have ever seen. If the meals and service are equal to the Ship and its appointments and to their reputation, then travelling on the Australien will be a luxury. Later in the Evening I strolled ont through the Botanical Gar- dens, near by the Landing, and enjoyed myself, looking at the people wandering there, the variety of trees and plants, and the Birds in Cages, or swimming in the Pools at large, and in breathing the delightful atmosphere, coming in from the Harbor which makes the Garden’s rim. On Same Steamer, Between Sydney and Melbourne, Sunday, April 27, 1890. The Ship was equal to her promise. At daylight she was ready, all freight stored and passengers aboard. But at the hour of my proposed departure, the Fog hung heavily over the Harbor, and the Officer was afraid to start the big hulk on her career through the Port, filled with many crafts. We delayed till eight o’clock, by which time the mist had gone, and the Sun was out to show us the STEAMSHIP AUSTBALIEN— SYDNEY'S HARBOR. 309 beauties of the scene. Sydney Harbor in its true phase has not been overrated, I concluded, when I went to Middle Harbor the other day ; I again saw it maybe better to-day from this Steamer’s loftier Deck. It has been compared to the Harbor of Rio, and the palm, by its friends, been given her over that ; now, since I have seen both, I can speak. They may well be compared, without detriment or disparage- ment to either. Their respective claims lying in different phases of the Hilsthetic : this, with its many Inlets, all enclosed by rising grounds covered with vegetation, and often adorned with Architecture and Art, inviting you hither and thither with gentle dalliance, is lovely exceedingly ; that, with its fine imposing Mountains rounding the majestic Basin, the City of Rio de Janeiro seated on its Shox’e, you think, when there, cannot be surpassed by any earthly Land and Water scene. Neither jostles nor minifies the other, in Nature’s glo- rious Realm. This reigns supreme in the Domain of the simply Beautiful ; that, in the Domain of the Grand. This is Insular ; that, Imperial. I must say a good word for Sydney, on my departure. Sydney’s Harbor has abstracted from Sydney’s fame; the World talks more of the Harbor than of the City. Melbourne’s booming propensities and push have made her conspicuous, and to be talked about at the expense of her sister town. One hears much more of the former than the latter, and, consequently, is apt to infer the latter’s inferiority. But this is not the case. Having seen both, Sydney is much the finer City. It is more substantially built, having quarries, under or near it, of admirable stone, which enable it to construct more endur- ing and elegant Edifices. Its water front is almost unparalleled. Seated on the lovely Inlet which it embraces North and South, seven miles from the Ocean, it commands a water frontage for almost any draught, of more than fifty miles. On high ground, its drainage could not be better. It is complained, that its streets are cx’ooked and narrow : I don’t think sufficiently so to be ground of serious complaint ; they follow the contour of the City’s site, and are well graded and paved with wood, or asphalt, or stone. I have told you hitherto of Melbourne and its troubles — which do not afflict its rival. I think Sydney altogether the finest City of Australasia ; and not unfit to stand in comparison with the finest of the World. A splendid morning helped us between the Headlands, through a channel a mile or more in width. They are high, and look as if the 310 LETTER NO. 15. wild Sea had broken through and made the charming Inlet a quiet resting place for some of its turbulent waters; and no sooner had the Ship passed out than we could feel through its huge bulk the throb of the Vast Profound. The day advancing, we steamed in sight of the Coast ; staying on Deck that we might see the opening into Botany Bay, five or six miles further South, which has nothing strik- ing about it, being only a let down of the land’s outer rim, hardly to be observed without attention ; and towards the Evening the wind sprang up ; but our “ Great Admiral ” did not regard it, and one could walk her Decks, firmly as on solid ground. Yet we put out more to Sea, and gave the Shore wide berth. The Service and the Table of our Ship are all one need wish. I don’t think, in the many Ships I have voyaged on, I have seen any, taken altogether, quite its equal. It is true, there is no crowd : the Second Class and Steerage are nearly full ; the First not half; and having been jostled for some months in ti’avel, it is delightful to have plently of elbow room every- where. Mr. and Mrs. Nead and I have our seats together at one end of the Table, which makes it pleasant. Seated by my side at Table is a Lady from Melbourne, with whom I have pleasant talk. She said she knew who I was, having heard me spoken of by two Ladies wdio travelled with me on the Hawkes- bnry, and had many pleasant things to say about me, and compli- mentary. I told her I remembered them with equal pleasure, but did not know their names. She told me who they were, and said, at my request, she would give them my kind recollections, which had been as vivid of them, as theirs seem to have been of me. On Same Ship, Same Course, 3Ionday, April 28, 1890. Out on Deck early this morning, I found the air quite brisk and keen, and my light overcoat comfortable. Yet it was pleasant to walk its steady boards. I read some of the Papers your Uncle Taj lor sent — the first oppor- tunity I have had since their reception. Among the items, the Death of young Hugh Meem shocked me. What a frightful blow to his poor parents ! The noble exposure of his life to save that of the miners a short time ago, shows he was made in no common mould ; and in such times, such men are a great honor to the Country, and STEAMSHIP AUSTBALIEN— HOBSON’S BAY. 311 theii’ death a grievous loss. I will write to his Father and Mother, and tell them of my sympathy ; and if your Uncle Taylor sees Gil- bert, he must say to him, how much I feel for him in his sore afflic- tion. The Shore-line to-day was often out of sight, and never conspicu- ous, till the afternoon, when about three or four o’clock we rounded Wilson’s Promontory, the extreme South point of Victoria — a bleak Headland of solid isolated Rock, which mounts a Light House ; around about it are other Rocks, and the Coast for miles is very bold, while off are numerous bleak Islands, between which we steamed. Altogether this Wilson’s Promontory is a striking Ocean scene, espe- cially this afternoon, aided by some Whales spouting their fountains in the air. I noted in the Papers, how President Harrison snubbed the Rich- mond people, who tendered him civilities on his passage through the City. It was like his little self, and served them right. How any Virginian could demean himself to tender any civilities to one who, a short time ago, did all he could to ruin his State and hand her over to dishonor and misrule, is a mystery to me. No courtesy ought ever to be shown to him there. Let him pass to and fro, without any recognition. We reached Melbourne at nine or ten o’clock at night, distant from Sydney five hundred and seventy-six miles, and anchored in Hobson’s Bay, half a mile from the City. On Same Steamship, At Melbouene, Australia, Tuesday, April 29, 1890. To-day we lay off the City, and many people visited us. In Sydney, by invitation generally extended, two thousand went on board the Ship to inspect her, the Officers desiring she should be known to the English-speaking people, whose custom the Line is seeking. The English Steamers have been those hitherto patronized by the Home People and the Colonies. The French are trying, especially by this fine Line, to gather patronage, and are not afraid to show the grounds upon which they ask it. Thus, before we came, the Agents in Melbourne had issued advertisements inviting the people to go aboard and examine the Ship upon her arrival, providing 312 LETTER NO. 16 . Steam Launches to convey them ; consequently, crowds thronged the Vessel all day. Flowers and Plants were brought from shore, and the Steamer elaborately decorated, and everything made beautiful and gay for the curious stranger. The Exhibition was altogether a success. I did not go ashore, preferring to stay on Board and see the people coming and going, or read or write. I had seen all Melbourne had to show me, and made some acquaintances among the Passengers who, like myself, remained aboard. Among them is a Mr. Fletcher, an English gentleman of thirty-five or forty, who has spent his life as a Teacher, and now has a School for Boys in the Blue Mountains, VYest of Sydney. He is a graduate of Oxford, and a cultivated, pleasant fellow, now bound to England, by the way of Marseilles, for a six months’ rest. Another acquaintance is Mr. Lestenberger, a Merchant from Indiana, out here selling Agricultural Implements. He, too, is a pleasant fellow and genial companion, bound likewise for Mar- seilles, on his homeward journey. My Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nead, went to the City to spend the day and night. But the time did not lag. I walked the Deck, I looked at the people, I enjoyed tlie pleasant temperature, I surveyed the low-lying City, and the Vessels of every shape and kind which thi’onged the Harbor, coming in or going out, and thought of you all, thousands of miles away, and wished I had the Wings of the Morning. On the Same Ship, Between Melbourne and Adelaide, Wednesday, A'pril 30, 1890. I determined to go to Melbourne this morning, the Launch run- ning to and fro every hour for the convenience of travellers and visitors, not to see the City, but to inquire of my Bankers for any Letters and Papers, which I did not expect, simply hoped for. My Friends Le.stenberger and Fletcher went with me. The run was short, and from Port Melbourne, the name of the Landing, a few minutes’ run by Rail into the Station near Princes Bridge, which by this time we knew quite well. We walked to the Bank. My inquiry was vain ; no Mail, but a promise to send any that might come, to Brown, Shipley & Co., London, whither I hope others will gather from you all to greet me. In the meantime, I have MELBOURNE TO ADELAIDE. 313 been able to make only one rendezvous of Letters — at Cape Town — a long way off and a long time to wait. But Letters hence could never overtake me there, and I, therefore, to get them, had to order them to be sent to London ; where, however, I will not linger, but hurry on to finish the last link of my long Chain at Home. My friends and I, having seen enough of Melbourne on former visits, simply strolled a while about the Streets and then walked back to the Landing, and taking our Launch returned to the Steamer, on whose Deck I enjoyed the surroundings, aided by a lovely day. At four o’clock in the afternoon, we lifted Anchor, and were soon steaming across Port Philip, bound for Adelaide, the Capital of South Australia, distant four hundred and eighty miles. When I came to Melbourne from Tasmania, I told you of the entrance of Port Philip through the Heads ; I should have liked to have seen the meeting of the M^atei’s again; but when we reached there the Sun had set, and mist and haze covered the Sea and Sky, and there was nothing beautiful to be seen ; and soon after I went to bed and trusted the good Ship to carry me safely. On Same Steamer, Between Adelaide and King George Sound, Australia, Thursday and Friday, May 1 and 2, 1890. All day of Thursday we steamed along Australia’s Coast, it ap- pearing simply in the distance, and presenting nothing of any interest, only a level line not many feet above the Sea. Some Albatrosses, one of the passengers told me, came in sight; but I did not see them, not being at the time on Deck. Indeed, I did not go there much during the day : it being chilly and disagreeable, and the Vessel rolling, made it unsafe for me to walk the boards. There was no wind, and no surface waves — indeed, they were even without a cap — but a distant storm had stirred the depths, and big billows rolled inward moodily, and carried the Ship upon their backs like an egg- shell. I have often in my voyages spoken of this, when traversing the great Sea wastes, and how profoundly it impresses me with the majesty of Old Ocean’s power. And thus the day passed into the night, and during its hours we came to Adelaide and anchored in the Gulf of St. Vincent, otf Glenelg, a small town upon its shore. The City of Adelaide is nine 314 LETTER NO. 16. miles from the Gulf. Its proper harbor is Port Adelaide, ou the Torrens River, a short distance from its outlet in the Gulf, and, also, eight or nine miles away. But our big Ship drew too much water for the little River and we anchored in St. Vincent, where she was reached by Tugs. The announcement that we would not leave till live o’clock in the afternoon, enabled me to go ashore and visit Adelaide. My Friends, Fletcher and Lestenberger, who had been there before and knew the City, agreed to go with me. We, together with some other passen- gers impelled by the same curiosity, took one of the Launches and landed at a Wharf called Largs, between Glenelg and Port Adelaide. Here a fine Hotel has been built, for Summer Resort, and a Railroad has been constructed to Adelaide via the Port of that name. The Train made connections with the Launch. Mr. and Mrs. Nead hav- ing been here before, went with us, not to see the City, but simply to do some shopping. The Country to Adelaide is level, and by no means attractive. It is true, a drought now prevails, which makes vegetation look sorry and worn ; the Plain is bounded on the East by the Mount Lofty Range, which runs almost due North and South, live or six miles from Adelaide, and rims the Eastern Horizon. They are hardly worthy of their name, for they are not lofty or conspicuous Mountains. The highest Peak, Mount Lofty itself, being only twenty-three hun- dred and thirty-four feet. When we reached the Station in Adelaide I hired a two-horse Carriage, and invited my Friends Fletcher and Lestenberger to accompany me in a drive about the City. They knew the place and had kindly offered to accompany me, and, therefore, I would not allow them to incur any expense in the fulfilment of their kind pi’oposal. The City is divided into two distinct portions — North and South Adelaide. The latter the Business section, the former that of Resi- dences. Between the two runs the River Torrens ; a smalt stream generally, but in wet weather a flood which has cut in time a deep Gorge. Both Sections are well laid out in Squares and surrounded by Terraces, which in turn abut on Parks, whilst about the interior are Squares, quite tastefully adorned. In the heart of the North Section is Wellington Square. Arranged about the South — much larger than the North Section — are Victoria Square in the centre. ADELAIDE. 315 and equidistant from it and the Terraces, in a rectangle, are Hartle, Light, Whitmore, and Hindmarsh Squares. We drove along the North Terrace, a fine Street, which bounds the Southern Section of the City on the North, and observed along it the Government House and Grounds, the Parliament Houses, the Museum, and the Building where the late Exposition was held, and where there is still a small Art Collection, which we visited ; all these are highly respectable Edifices of Stone. At the farther end of the Terrace, we visited the Botanical Gardens, which, like all these Colonial Cities, you have observed, is most creditable, and well worth inspection, both from the variety of trees and plants, and the excel- lence of their keep, and the order of their arrangement. Not far otf is a Zoological Garden, also an admirable affair, espe- cially interesting to me on account of the fine specimens of Austi’alian and Tasmanian growths. There were two Tasmanian Devils — a creature about the size of a Wild Cat, but whilst not having the active ferocity of that beast, have a none the less devilish, though more apathetic look; two fine specimens of the Jackass Bird — so called because his notes have a ridiculous resemblance to the human laugh ; specimens of the Morepork — because his notes repeat this word, and other curious creatures I have not time to mention. We then drove over the North Section, and admired, from its ele- vated sites, the whole City below and around us and the Mountain Range, with Mount Lofty, its highest Peak, crowned with a White Pillar, to mark the estimation in which it is held by the people of the City it dominates ; admired, too, the plan and width of its well paved Streets, and the admirable, sometimes fine. Residences of stone, and their cultivated surroundings. And then drove back again to the South Section, and through its Streets and by its Squares, till I could be said to have seen Adelaide ; and concluded that it was a beautiful site, well improved, with room in its environment of ground for more growths, both of population and adornment. It contains, they claim, fifty thousand people. About it and under it are excellent Quarries of variegated Limestone, which they have utilized, and which now constitutes the material of which most of their Houses are built. In their Summer — our Winter — the heat at times is very great, and droughts occur, which burn up the vegetation. Now, the climate is delicious, but a drought prevails, though this is the usual season of Rain. 316 LETTER NO. 15. Having spent several hours in thus perusing Adelaide, we went back to the Station, took Train to the Launch and thence by it to the Steamer. Whilst we were gone, another crowd like those in Sydney and Melbourne had, by invitation, visited the Ship. The Earl of Kintore, the present Governor of South Australia, was among the number. I only saw him in the distance; Ins Launch leaving as oui\s arrived. The Steamship Company are thus trying to make their fine Vessel known to the Colonials, inviting patronage — a good idea — for no one can fail to be impressed l)y the elegant Steamer and her appoint- ments. At five o’clock in the afternoon, we lifted Anchor, and with fair promise of weather, steamed through Investigator Strait out into the Southern Ocean, bound Westward. On Same Steamer, Saturday and Sunday, May 3 and 4, 1890. These two days we have travelled Westward rapidly — fifteen miles an hour or thereabouts — across the Australian Bight, a section of the Southern Ocean. The Sea and Sky have favored, and out of sight of Land, we have gone straight on. A Pidgeon came on Deck, seem- ingly tired out in his long flight, and wanting rest. He lingered some time, and having apparently overcome his fatigue, flew aloft, and hovering a while in fluttering indecision, like an arrow sped in the direction of the Land. On the contrary, the Albatross was per- fectly at home above and upon the water, and accompanied us all day on untiring wing. I have made acquaintances from time to time among the passen- gers. The First Class are not numerous for so big a Ship — about fifty — while she has accommodations for two hundred. The Second Class and Steerage are quite full, and a heavy cargo of Freight; doing welt for her first Voyage. Among my new acquaintances is Mr. Layard, a Brother of the Layard of Nineveh Fame. He is a gentleman of sixty-five or seventy years of age. I have had much talk with him, and find him intelli- gent and well informed. He has been in the Foreign Service of England for forty-eight years, and is now going home finally into retirement on account of ill health. His last position was as Consul STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN. 317 to Numea, New Caledoniau Islands, and he gives me many interest- ing stories of his residence there, and at Fiji, and other of the Poly- nesian Groups, among which Cannibalism still exists. His views of the people, and their ability to take on our Civilization, fully confirm mine given you frequently upon my Tours : it being a ques- tion of time simply, when they shall pass away and the fittest survive. He has no faith whatever in their being lifted up, either by our Science or our Religion. The old man some years ago had Necrosis of the Jaw-bone, and a large part of it was cut away, and he hoped he had been entirely relieved. But travelling home not a great while ago across this same Bight we are now traversing, a swell was on, much like that of which I have told you, and he was hurled across the Deck and thrown against an iron Stanchion, his face and head receiving the blow. He was knocked insensible, but after a while recovered himself, and soon thereafter had a return of his disease, which he fears is eating towards the brain. The Doctors advise him, that his lease of Life is short. There is, however, no outward appearance of disease. He is a good- looking man, with his snow-white hair and bright eye, and wonder- fully cheerful, with Damocles’ sword above his head. I tell him, he is not in extremis, and has, I hope, many more years before him of useful and happy life, for he is a bright-tempered, jovial man. His Son, a man of forty probably, is along. Their sojourning so many years among strange peoples — for the Son, too, has lived abroad all his life in the Foreign Service — have turned their attention to the collection of Curios, and they have sent many boxes to England. They especially value their preserved Birds, which they propose to sell to the British Museum, thinking it will be one of the finest in that wonderful Collection. The old gentleman tells me his Brother, the Nineveh Explorer, is still living, seventy odd years of age. He spends his Winters in Florence, where he has a Palace, filled with Works of Art: his Sum- mers, he spends in Norway — his days devoted to pleasant study and social intercourse. He tells me, too, many stories of his long life and association with eminent and famous people. He knew Queen Victoria in her youth, before she put on a Crown, and his Cousins wei’e her playmates, and had many a I’ow. Vic, was quite conscious of the Diadem that awaited her, and of an imperious temper naturally, presumed upon it 318 LETTER NO. 15. with her associates, and claimed concessions to her dignity. On one occasion one of his Cousins had a pet Bird, trained to obey her call and light upon her hand. The gentle V^ic. wanted and demanded it, which the owner with equal pluck refused ; hence they made issue and got into a scrimmage — Vic. telling her the right of the Princess Royal was supi’eme, which her companion could not see. In the midst of it the Bird fled to a tree, and the future Queen’s Tutor passing by, sent the Princess Royal to her Room to reflect upon the iinpx’opriety of her conduct. The Tutor was a sensible man, and conscious that in the whirligig of time the Divine Right in England had gone from the wearer of the Crown, and it was proper for the coming Queen to know it. This is interesting, but it does not seem to have anything to do with Australia, does it? Yet it may have — for the assertion of any such right in these latter days, in these Antipodal Colonies, would send them whirling from the Imperial Sphere. No note was taken on Board to-day of the Sabbath. We had no Religious Service of any sort ; but in silent recognition, the Passen- gers stopped their games. On Same Steamer, And at Albany, West Australia, Monday, May 5, 1890. Some hours before we came to King George’s Sound on the South- west Coast of Australia, we sighted the Islands in the distance, which bound it from the Ocean. Steaming through these, we enter Princess Royal Harbor, between two fine Headlands — King Point and Pos- session Point — crowned with Light Houses, and soon were anchored a few miles from Albany, ten hundred and twenty-five from Adelaide. Albany is of small import, with probably a thousand people, but is situated on a fine, completely land-locked and commodious Harbor, one of the best in Australia. We arrived about three o’clock, and the Captain announced that we would leave at five, thus giving us no time to go ashore ; which, however, would not have paid for our trouble. From the Deck we had it in full view, and could see how little it had to entice or interest the stranger ; but we could see how beautiful a Basin its Harbor is, girdled by the Land completely, save where it gives outlet to the Sound, and thence Oceanward. STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN— ALBANY. 319 Albany is connected with Perth, the Capital of West Australia, by Rail, somewhat more than two hundred miles in length, and was for a few years a Penal Colony. But that has been abolished here, as in all the Colonies. We did not get off at the appointed hour, and it was after six before we lifted Anchor. But the time was not lost. In the mean- while the Sun set splendidly, covering Sea and Sky with his efful- gence ; then the Lamps flashed out around the Harbor from the Light Houses; then the full Moon rose blushing red, throwing over all the milder radiance she borrowed from the Sun, just gone down ; and all united with Australasia in giving emphasis and pleasure to our last Good Night ! Amid it, the noble Ship steamed out through the Portals of the Harbor upon the Sea, and began another link of my Travel Chain, of three thousand nine hundred and twenty-two miles to Mahe, Northwestward, well-nigh across the Indian Ocean and the Southern Tropic. I hope Australia has afforded you some interest, travelling with me through and along its shore. It is a vast Island-Continent, two thousand miles and more across its Compass Points, but it is young. Yet you have seen what big Cities it bears, and far off at the Antip- odes, how it rivals the oldest and most populous States in the putting on of the garments of our Civilization. Its settled interior is trav- ersed by Railways, and its Coast Cities are visited by Ocean Steam- ers, connecting them with all the World. Much of this Continent is unknown ; the Explorer has yet to visit many points. But from that already seen, the inference is that at least, if not more, than one-half of its entire area is beyond the reach of tillage. It had been visited in different parts by different navigators long before. But Captain Cook in 1770 sailed along the entire Eastern Coast from Gippsland to Cape York, and added it to the British Possessions. He has given us a graphic account of his experiences, and how he suffered shipwreck upon the Great Barrier Reef, which extends for twelve hundred miles along its Northeastern border — now Queensland — and how by skilful seamanship he saved his good Ship Endeavor. We have seen on Botany Bay the Column which 320 LETTER NO. 15. marks the spot where he aufurled the Englisli Flag and claimed the country for her own. In 1788, a few years thereafter, a Settlement was made on Port Jackson, Sydney Harbor, and thence has Australia grown. The chief use England made of it was to establish at Botany Bay a Con- vict Colony, which became famous, and in my young days engaged the pens of Reviewers and Essayists in berating the Mother Country for the cruelty with which the prisoners were treated, and the taint upon the Virgin Soil, open then for the honest Settler. The coming of these Settlers from year to year compelled the Government to remove the Convicts, many of whose descendants now-a-days consti- tute the most respectable element of the people, I an] told, but not to be referred to in polite society. Taken from Botany Bay, they were sent to Tasmania in 1804, and tlience, pressed l)y the tide of Emi- gi-ants and their demands, were sent to West Australia, which in 1850 asked for them as an element of labor. All laws of transpor- tation from the Old Country were rej)ealed in 1868. The few left are dying out, and soon not one will be alive to tell the story of Australia’s birth. This Settlement of 1788 was the centre, whence has grown Aus- tralia. The Colony was called New South Wales. Tasmania, a Dependency of New South Wales, in 1825 became a Colony, whose Capital is Hobart, and in 1829, a few years thereafter, the Island- Continent was severed, and West Australia became a Colony with the whole Western Sliore abutting on the Indian Ocean, whose Capi- tal is Perth. In 1834 the intervening Country occupying the centre was made a Colony and called South Australia, Avhose Capital is Adelaide. In 1851, the Southern portion of New South Wales was made a Colony under the name of Victoria, whose Capital is Mel- bourne ; and in 1859 the remnant was made the Colony of Queens- land, with Brisbane its Capital. The three Countries of New Zealand, Tasmania, and Australia, when the Discoverers came, were inhabited by peoples whom Eth- nologist regard as distinct Races. The Mahoris I have spoken of in New Zealand, and somewhat of the Aborigines of Australia : the former regarded as the most superior, the latter as the most inferior of all the savage peoples that have been come across by Civilized men ; both now passing away. The Tasmanians are clean gone. STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN—A USTRALIA. 321 These, your Map will show you, are the great nearly Central Islands, called Australasia, that lie between Singapore and Easter Island, and which connectedly may be denominated Oceana. Those West of Australasia are called Malaysia, from Sumatra to the Phillipines and Moluccas, the habitat of the Malay Race, of whom I told you much on my Fourth Tour; Melanesia, from New Guinea to the Fiji, where the Papuans or black and woolly-haii’ed Races live — Papua signifying woolly-headed ; Mikronesia, the small Islands to the East of these, in the North Pacific; and Polynesia, embracing the great Group Eastward, from the Hawaiian Islands to New Zealand. The Inhabitants of the Islands I have thus enumerated. Ethnologists tell us are of distinct Races. But the same fate seems to await them all, the efforts of the Phil- anthropists, so-called, notwithstanding. I would not underrate the designs of the good, nor cast derision on their work. But the order of the Universe, wherein consists and subsists all perfection and happiness, cannot be enthroned in our lives and aims without recog- nition of and obedience to its Laws, however high and holy our purposes and intentions. Sentimentalism has no place in Nature’s fierce, but beneficent. Economies. The White Man settled at first upon the long East and South Shore-lines of Australia, and thence from year to year and generation to generation, spread inwards. Even now he occupies but a small portion of the Continent ; indeed, some of it is yet unknown. Ex- plorers and Travellers tell us, as I have already remarked, that at the best, from what has been seen, not one-half of it can ever be reduced to tillage. For a long time Immigration was slow; the discovery of Gold in Victoria in 1851 expedited it greatly, like it did to California in 1849 — many in both, not finding the Gold, could not get away, and became, in other pursuits, the founders of perma- nent Settlements, and the Architects of those Countries’ substantial fortune. Australia now contains rather more than three millions of people, and claims to be growing both in population and wealth. But not rapidly, hardly in excess of its people’s normal increase: Immigration being opposed by the laboring class, on account of apprehended com- petition. There are things which, to the average traveller, indicate a flour- ishing and prosperous condition, which upon closer inspection may 21 322 LETTER NO. 15. be the reverse. Two great Cities, Melbourne and Sydney, have grown : the former almost by magic, one of the wonders of the World. To walk through Melbourne makes the impression not only of energy and thrift, but of large accumulated wealth. I have told you of this City, and therefore will not repeat ; and will only say in this connec- tion, that Melbourne’s growth is abnormal, and constituting one-half the population of Victoria, the Colony of which it is the Capital, and that Colony not of any remarkable natural resources, is not a healthy economical attitude. There are cjuestions, too, alFecting the whole Country at large, which show that Australia is not without troubles that will gravely affect her fortune. The Rabbit Problem is not yet solved, seemingly farther from it with every advancing year. To us who have Rabbits with impunity, the simple suggestion of such creatures causing such apprehension excites a smile. But not so here, where its import has not only invoked the earnest consideration of individuals, but the attention and aid of the Government. You will recall what I said about it in New Zealand, and what I thouglit wmuld be its solution there; and, also, I think, spoke of the causes which would impede or prevent its application here. Mr. Wilson, I told you, gave me papers containing a discussion, among others, of this question ; and those, together with many con- versations I have had on my travels, have yielded me much infor- mation with regard to the seriousness of the invasion. Brought into Victoria innocently, near Geelong, in 1864, at Barwon Park, for sporting purposes, they have spread like wildfire over most of that Colony, and thence crossing the Murray River in 1878 into New South Wales, and thence into Queensland, will soon cover all Aus- tralia, devastating the Runs and consuming and destroying the pas- turage for thousands of squai’e miles ; for their presence taints the grass so that Sheep will not eat it. Numerous remedies have been applied — catching them in traps, poisoning, shooting, disseminating disease under Pasteur’s recommendation and method ; but all, instead of checking their increase, simply tending to alarm and scatter them over wide areas. Hundreds of thousands, both of Private and Public Moneys, have been spent, but with no appreciable effect upon their numbers. The Statements and Extracts I have already given show that the Question is not by any means a trivial one. On the con- trary, if a remedy for the pest is not found, and that speedily, the STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN—A USTRALIA. 323 sources of wealth of the Colonies will be profoundly affected if not utterly destroyed. Vast sums of money have been spent in constructing Wire-Gauze Fences, burying them six inches in the ground with three or four feet above, thus preventing the Rabbits’ advance and spread by either climbing or burrowing. Some say the money has been throAvn away, for the creature can and will do both. Others deny this, and have faith in the remedy. Time alone will decide. To the Traveller two other questions occur affecting the future of Australia — one Economical, the other Political. I doubt whether any Country on Earth is in debt to the extent of Australia, individ- ually and corporately, in proportion to the value of its property, except Peru, whose resources were destroyed or spoiled, especially by the Chilian War. I have remarked upon the number of Banks in New Zealand ; here the number is, if anything, greater. Wherever you go they abound with their Palatial Shops. In Melbourne there are about thirty ; in Sydney, twenty ; in Brisbane, fifteen ; each of which has its Branches. And there are other independent Banks all over the Colonies in the Cities and Towns. These Institutions profess to be flourishing — dividing from fifteen to twenty and twenty-five per cent. I hear that they have liens upon innumerable Farms and Houses and tracts of Lands in City and Country, and that the majority of those holding property are under Bond and Mortgage. We know the Farmer can- not stand this. The small market for Agricultural Products of Western Europe and Great Britain, which in effect is the only one in the World for the Exporting Countries, and the now enormous com- petition and immense surplus of production by reason of improved machinery and easy and rapid transportation, compel the producer to the greatest economy ; it is impossible for him to borrow money at high rates of interest and survive ; this we know full well in our Coimtiy. In this respect Australia stands with us, with less advan- tage because farther from that Market. To the extent of my observation and inquiry, and by admission of all the men of intelligence and experience with whom I have con- versed, and they have been many, this is true ; and the only hope of the Colonies is in their Stock, especially Sheep and Wool. But even these are heavily in debt to individuals and Money Corporations, and have been for years, waiting for some streak of Luck, or “ something to turn up : ” for Mr. Micawber when he emigrated to Australia 324 LETTER NO. 15. brought that characteristic with him, and left it as a heritage to the Colonists. Every Squatter I have met, and some are reputed among the wealthiest men in the Country, told me he was in Debt, not regarding it a serious matter in consideration of his resources, and their hoped-for annual yield. These gentlemen are men generally advanced in years, who have industriously spent their lives here, and whose hopes have not yet been realized. It is not a healthy senti- ment, resulting in a not healthy condition of affairs. Nor is it remarkable that success should not have been achieved. The Squatter, like the Farmer, has enemies and contingencies to con- tend with, which constantly thwart his enterprises and hopes. The Rabbits have come, seemingly to stay ; their invasion threatens worse than the Locusts — for the latter come and go at intervals ; the former take up their residence, constructing permanent abiding places. In addition, the Country as a whole is badly watered, and to supply it artificially is an immediate impossibility over such extensive areas. I have heard much of Artesian Wells and Irrigation; neither, it seems to me, is possible over such extensive regions, and at the present high price of labor. The former, too, could only supply the Stock with water, not the land with moisture over Runs of hundreds of thousands of acres ; the latter, if drawn from the few Rivers Aus- tralia has, would soon leave them empty channels, and hasten an extremity which they wish to avoid. And then, too, vast regions are entirely without Rivers, and Artesian Wells might reach no water, though bored to the center of the Earth, there being by the Geologic structure no probable sources of supply. Whilst this is the general condition, the Country is subject to terrible droughts, there being no rainfall sometimes for years. It is subject, also, when the drought passes, to Floods, which rival in destructiveness over smaller areas, if not in magnitude those of our own Mississippi. I think I have mentioned to you, that of the Darling this year, which created wide-spread devastation ; thousands of Sheep were washed away, and where they were spared or saved, the ground was left in such sobby condition as to generate rot in their feet, destroying lives or values over extensive Runs. These are things which stand a barrier to the Squatter in discharg- ing the heavy obligations he has assumed, and increase the burden of his Debt, sometimes to individuals, most frequently to the Banks. These Banks are almost entirely owned in England or elsewhere STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN—A USTRALIA. 325 abroad. The annual interest, therefore, never fructifies here, and the profits of the producer never returns to add to the substantial wealth of Australia. It therefore now presents the strange anomaly of a Country owned by Foreign Corporations, though professing to own itself; for the whole Land is under mortgage to pay the indebtedness. How long, amid the circumstances I have described, can this condi- tion of things last? There must be a day of reckoning. The Cor- porations must have their interest, if not their principal. If the Lands are forced into Market, in such volume, there will be no pur- chasers, and the Banks will hold an empty bag. And this hard-pan will have to be reached, either suddenly by force, or adjustment, if possible, by amicable and sensible delay. But the Political, if not more presently serious, is of more perma- nent interest than the Economical. From my observations and con- versations, which have been numerous, the Question of continued Colonial Connection, or Severance from the Empire, is coming to the front. Colonial Federation is much talked of, and just before my arrival a Conference was held in Melbourne for its consideration. With Federation will come the graver Question of Severance. Among the older Colonials and those born across the water, loyalty to the Crown seems quite well fixed. The Separatists are among those who call themselves “ Young Australians ; ” not unlike, in many of their characteristics, our “ Young Americas.” Indeed, I have probably before somewhere remarked that, in my intercourse with the people, I have seen more of Americanism than of Old Countryism in their tendencies and modes of thought. This spirit of Severance and Independence has as yet assumed no definite organization or shape — only talk of a general character. But it has its germ in the thoughts of the young, and its advocates are increasing in numbers from year to year; its opponeuts among the old are growing fewer with the lapse of time, and its manifestation in formulated action may come, as our own expei’ience in such pro- ceedings, satisfies us, suddenly — by the sounding of a rally. The old man still holds fast to the memories of his youth and the glories of the Empire, and wants his adopted home to remain one of its integral parts ; he has faith, too, in the Lion’s strength in the day of emergency. The young man thinks Australia is old and strong enough to stand alone, and points to the United States to prove the power of Independence. He is tired of hanging on simply as an 326 LETTER NO. 15. appendage, and of having figure-head Governors, to whom salaries are paid rivalling that of the President of the United States ; who are less than nothing if not merely social ornaments. He wants the Colonies to combine and launch out upon the Sea of Nationalities, quite sure they will be able to maintain their prestige and inde- pendence. When they talk thus to me, I tell them I think their Fathers the wiser. Better receive and pay the nominal Governor his salary for the protection the Empire affords, than to call upon their already burdened finances for an Army and Navy, a Diplomatic Corps, and all the unnumbered and innumerable expenses of an Independent Nationality. More than that, and in import, far above it, the figure- head of a Governor stands as the Vice-Roy, the representative of a Splendid Rule, greater than any that has hitherto appeared upon the Earth — Magni Nominis Umbra — with all the forceful conservatism that term implies. Australia, in every comprehensive sense, is the freer thereby, for England in her present relations, with her strong hand, extends over her simply a Shield, not a Sword. Were I an Australian, I would hold on to the Lion’s Mane. The contour and resources of the Island-Continent forbid it for many years, if not forever, from being the home 6f a Great Nationality. On Same Steamship, Indian Ocean, From Australia to the Seychelles, Tuesday, May 6, 1890. To-day we are fairly out upon the Indian Ocean, and Australia is behind us. No Land is in sight, only the Water and the Sky. No Birds of any sort have followed from Shore ; none have come to meet and greet us on the Sea. Soon after Breakfast a Trojiic Shower came, though we are far yet from their habitat. But it hurried just like it would have done at its own home, and poured out buckets full of water. When it had gone, it left behind the wind that brought it, which forthwith began to stir the waves. Its distant fellows had done the same, and uniting their forces, moved the Ocean into billows, which lifted the big Ship upon their bosom like a plaything. When the night fell, it was like a boiling caldron : no wind, but simply the waters, heaving in unrest. STEAMSHIP AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN. 327 On Same Steamship and Ocean, Wednesday, May 7, 1890. The Rain returned, and it and the wind almost ahead, continued with us. The Engine had hard work to propel the massive hulk against the opposing forces, and it was marvellous to see its triumph. Though to me now a common thing, I never cease my wonder and admira- tion in witnessing the concentration of power in the propeller at the Vessel’s stern, and how it forces the Ship against every opposing obstacle. All day this struggle lasted, and all day we triumphed, moving on our way. The Ship labored to preserve her equilibrium — which was not possible in her difficulties ; she kept a-going, but rolled and staggered like a drunken man. We on board were equally unsteady, and had to guard our steps. Going down the Stairway from the Saloon to my State-Room, on reaching the bottom, I was hurled against the Jamb of the Iron Doorway which divides the Ship into water-tight compartments ; had the lurch occurred one step later, I would have been thrown down a flight of steps into the hold, and my travels would then and there have forever ended. We gather in the Saloon, and holding tight to fixed chairs and tables, read and talk, to while the hours. On Same Ocean and Ship, Thursday, May 8, 1890. At three o’clock this morning the Vessel stopped; I felt it, and feared that, for a new Ship, her labors had been too many and too much. Maybe I have mentioned, that her voyage to Australia was her maiden effort. It was naturally anticipated, that with gearing not yet accurately adjusted, she might, with such difficulties as she is encountering, in some part give way. My apprehensions were realized. On inquiry, I found one of her Cylinders was ruptured; and we had to stop in mid-Ocean for repairs. How long it would take, who could tell ? The waters were swelling heavily, happily the wind had ceased, and the helpless hulk simply rose and fell, and rolled in the Sea-troughs ; but, by reason of her size and weight, less disagreeably than we anticipated. 328 LETTER NO. 15. All (lay the Chief Engineer, with his hands, were busily at work fixing up the damage. The passengers were just as busily at work, a-doing nothing. I read, and talked, and thought, and felt my way carefully about the Deck, looking at some of my comrades fishing for Sharks and Albatrosses. They caught a young one of the former, three or four feet long, too young to have cut his teeth. The creatures of the air, very numerous, and some splendid specimens, seemed smart enough to avoid the danger, simply nibbling the bait and then on wide-spread wing, circling our Ship and exciting our admiration by their glorious flight. I was glad none were caught and snatched from the sphei’e they thus adorned, to such untimely fate ; and did not at all wonder at the Ancient Mariner’s frightful penalty. Same Sea and Steamer, Friday, May 9, 1890. At half-past nine we started again. But in an hour stopped, the working of the Machinery showing other damages to be repaired. At three in the afternoon once more we started. In the Morning, we had no sooner gotten under way, than a breeze sprang up, with rain. The breeze increased and grew into a gale, which lifting the waves, washed the lower, and sometimes vaulting over the Hurricane Deck in seemingly mad sport, come down in thunderous concussion. The Steamer’s troubles made me anxious, fearing she might give way again, under the contest forced upon her. And my anticipations were realized, as above stated, in an hour. At three p. m. we again were under steam, and continued to fight the winds and waves till after I went to Bed. Though the Sea was rough, the Sun set bright, promising better fates. My old Friend, Mr. Layard, and I have, during these times, had numerous pleasant talks. His life of varied experience in many places makes him full of incident. He lived sixteen years in South Africa, and he has told me much of the Country, and prepared me for my experiences there. But now, by our mishaps, I begin to fear I will not be able to carry out my plans. Our delays make it doubtful whether I can make connections either at Mahe or Mauritius. But it is too soon yet to decide. Indeed, I will have to wait till I get to Mahe. STEA3ISHIP AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN. 329 Mr. Layard volunteered to give me Letters of introduction to two of his friends in South Africa — Mr. C. G. Fairbridge, Cape Town, and Dr. Atherstone, Grahainstown. I send you an extract or two, to show the old gentleman’s kindly feeling on our short acquaintance. To Mr. F. : “I am sure you will put him in the way of seeing all that is worth seeing in and about Cape Town, and a few minutes conversation with him will convince you that he is a man worth knowing.” To Dr. A. : “I am sure you will put Governor Holliday on the way of carrying out his intentions ; he could not have a better ‘Guide, Philosopher, and Friend’ than yourself. I am sure you will aid him for my sake and for his own, after a few minutes’ conversation with him.” Same Sea and Ship, .Saturday, May 10, 1890. All day the Sea and Winds have been rough and adverse; but we struggled on. From excess of caution I did not venture on any of the Decks yesterday nor to-day. They were continually washed by the waves ; and a strong, dashing fellow, to try his strength, came furiously upon our flank and crushed and swept off like gossamer a portion of our Bulwark. Sitting in the Saloon, from the concussion, we hardly knew what had happened ; but hasting to the window the best we could, and seeing the disaster, were soon reconciled, feeling that with hatches down and doorways closed our massive Ship could do without a Bulwark. Whilst looking at it, we saw far off a Sail coming across our path- way — now sinking clean out of sight in the hollow of the waves, now rising like a Bird upon their crest. It was a brilliant sight, for the little creature seemed, in its confidence, to be safe, and sped before the wind upon the heaving bosom of the Sea, triumphing over both, by obedience to their Laws — the only mode by which all-powerful Nature can be conquered. We stopped a while at five o’clock, but only for a while, to cool a heated portion of the machinery, and then kept on our beat. You must not think, shut up amid such scenes and dangers, that there is any panic or confusion. We are not even blue ; but gathered in the Saloon, and holding on to fixed chairs and tables, we have a jolly time, enjoying the incidents of our Voyage and waiting for the calm. Now and then a sudden lurch sends a careless one to a fall, 330 LETTER NO. 15. which, not hurting, creates our laughter. Mr. Nead, who is a stout, fat man, sitting by my side in listless mood, with foot elevated, was tying his shoe, when a sudden movement of the Ship sent him like a shot five or six feet across the Saloon, landing him upon his back, with legs and arms in air. Not being hurt, like grown children that we are, we enjoyed it equal to a Farce. Other falls occurred below and on Deck not so harmless. My Friend Lestenberger was sitting in his chair by the Smoking Room ; a sudden toss sent him across the Deck against the Bulwark ; before he could recover another sent him back, head and shoulders, against the walls of the apartment, and he was badly hurt. These are a few of the casualties which attend those who venture aboard of Ships. . On Same Sea and Ship, Sunday, May 11, 1890. • Sunday has come and gone, without any Public observance of it on board. A change of weather welcomed it. Sea and Sky by their brightness combined to make its advent and its passage cheerful ; and I sat on Deck and enjoyed the outlook many hours. But we were alone upon the Ocean, no Smoke or Sail appeared ; and not a single Bird. The Captain trying to reach smooth waters, instead of continuing his direct Northwest course to Mahe, turned due North, moving towards the Tropics, and thence Northwest again, making for the time two sides of the triangle instead of the Hypotenuse. Consequently, the Al- batross, which does not love the heat, left us, and no other Bird has come to take its place. This variation of our course put one hundred and forty-eight miles on our Voyage to Mahe. On Same Sea and Ship, Monday, May 12, 1890. A good day at Sea this has been ; though the Ship rolled con- sidei’ably, either because she is a Roller, or because the waters, after their sport, have not recovered their propriety. This question we have not determined among ourselves, but have rather thought the gallant creature would be improved in her Sea-going qualities, by STEAMSHIP AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN. 331 having greater girth ; but her steadiness would thus be improved at the expense of speed. The Captain told me this morning, I must relieve myself of all anxiety with regard to my connections at Mahe. We have lost several days, it is true, but he would put me in on time. We ought to be at Mahe on the sixteenth, and leave the next day for Mauritius ; we will now not reach there till the nineteenth ; but the Steamer with which we connect is bound to await our arrival till six o’clock p. m. of that day, and without any further mishap, we will be in full time. I trust this will be our fortune ; but I am by no means confident. In the Tropics now ; and we can feel it. Up to to-day it has been deliciously cool, and heavy clothing comfortable. And whilst it is not yet hot, we feel we are advancing more and more into the Dominion of the Sun. Each hour now will run us deeper in, and whilst, your Map will show you, our Route does not reach the Equa- tor, it stops but few degrees short of it; and my story will, doubtless, tell you of uncomfortable proximity before we arrive at Mahe. Mr. Layard and I had a talk upon the New Philosophy in which he is a believer — as most of the Naturalists are now-a-days; but which, I argued, to say the least, must from the calm and disinter- ested investigator receive the Scotch Verdict, of “ not proven.” It is another question, whether the Scientist will, in his search, come across the “Missing Link;” if it exists, why should he not? for “Nature abhors a vacuum.” Until this Link is found, the New Philosophy is at odds, and his structure, a Castle in the Air ; for the unfathomed chasm which divides the Animal from the Intellectual, cannot be bridged with a theory. After Dinner my American Friends and some Britishers gathered in the Smoking Room, and we talked about the Past and Present eminent men of our Republic, and how they forecast its Future, and an hour or two had gone before we were conscious of their passage. On Same Sea and Ship, Tuesday, May 13, 1890. The weather continues fine, the Heavens are clear and bright, and the deep blue Sea is sinking more to rest. The French on board have organized Games and Sports to enter- tain us and help to speed the hours. If a Frenchman is not gay, he 332 LETTER NO. 15. is nothing. This afternoon some of the Pastimes came off on Deck, the Vessel now maintaining sufficiently its equilibrium. There was : Picking up Potatoes — they being arranged in rows, to be gathered separately and brought back to the base, the fastest doer the victor, in which the children and girls engaged ; walking three times around the Deck, in which contest the men did not disdain to join ; pitching a bag loaded with sand, the muscular youths trying their arras, as they had hitherto tried their legs ; the Evening, after Dinner, closing witli Music and tbe Waltz. All joined, either as participants or spec- tators, and the line between youth and age, for a while, was clean wiped out. Our Ship, by the ruptured Cylinder, which was disconnected, like a man with one lung, has lost much of her power and speed. I fear for our connections. On Same Ship and Sea, , Wednesday, May 14, 1890. The distance made in the preceding twenty-four hours — indeed, since the breakage occurred — is only an average daily run of two hundred and twenty-six miles. This will belate us for the connect- ing Ship at Mahe. She may or may not wait : the Captain says she will hold till six o’clock p. m. of the nineteenth ; the Purser thinks she will await our arrival ; we having the Mail and important cargo for Mauritius. , The morning was calm, and clear, and beautiful; and Flying Fish, the first of Animated Nature we have seen since the Albatross left us, made the white crests lively in their sport or flight — whether we regard their movements to be prompted by joy or fear — -joy in the exuberance of life, or fear of a pursuing enemy. Towards Evening, showers sped over us, or across our pathway ; by the time night fell, clouds shut out the Stars, and when I went to Bed, another rolling spell, I thought, portended. My old Friend, Mr. Layard, was very poorly, and suffering greatly after Dinner. It is a sad spectacle to see such a man, full of genial intelligence and knowledge and experience — a perfect specimen, with his fine face and snowy hair, of a green old age — hasting to such a Death as he thinks awaits him. When we talk and I see him seem- ingly forget his sufferings and fate, I, too, become oblivious, that STEAMSHIP AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN 333 beneath his kindly, beaming countenance, there is a mortal malady hurrying its work. Same Ship and Sea, Thursday, May 15, 1890. My anticipations were realized, and the roll came last night, and when the Morning dawned was still on, and lasted the entire day. The heat, too, has crept upon us. On Deck or within the draft, the natural breezes, or those from the motion of the Ship, keep the air cool and palatable ; but the warmth is sensibly felt, when below and out of their range. Notwithstanding Mr. Layard’s sutfering last night, he appeared early before Breakfast in the Reading Room on Deck, where I do this writing, to have with me our usual daily talk. He said some pieces had come from his cheek bone and given him relief from pain, and he was bright as one of the Birds which for many years he has made his familiar friends. It has been too rough for otri’ gay Frenchmen to continue their sports ; but they were not oblivions of their prided politeness, and explained to us the reason of the postponement. Last night, in the hurly-burly of the waves, a hapless Flying Fish came aboard, dazzled by the flashing of our Electric Lights, or in flight from some dreaded foe. Did he benefit himself? Hardly more, I opine, than the Bird I saw once, on our own James River, dash beneath the water to escape an Eagle’s beak. SAiiE Ship and Sea, Friday, May 16, 1890. A beautiful calm Sea to-day, the temperature assuming more and more of heat, advancing towards the Sun — but, by no means, yet oppressive. In the Evening, our French Managers of the Sports gave ns a , Concert in the Music Saloon of such material as the First Class Passengers afforded. They wanted to invite the Second Class to join us ; there being, it is said, some excellent people among them — doubt- less, quite equal to our own, without, maybe, so much money to lay out in the difference oDFares ; or, perhaps, of unwillingness to spend it. But the Captain opposed it, on the ground, that the Ship’s Regu- 334 LETTER NO. 15. latious required the severance, and he was unwilling, on any occasion, for the barrier to be broken down. When satisfied with the singing, I went to the Quarter-Deck, and standing at the Bulwark over the Propeller, enjoyed its motion, dash- ing the waves into a whirlpool of flashing Stars. Same Ship and Sea, Saturday, 3Iay 17, 1890. I don’t think I have mentioned the Captain’s name — Didier. I do so now, since it occurs to me. He came to the Beading Boom whilst I was writing, and we had a long talk. He told me he was in command of a French Man-of-War upon our Coast during nearly the whole of our War; and met Generals Lee, Beauregard, Johnston, and other of our distinguished Confederates. The Captains of all the Vessels of this Line are French Officers assigned to duty ; and the Ships themselves are contingents, to be turned in time of War into Government use, and are built accordingly, both for strength and speed. He thinks there must be another War between his Country and Germany, before old scores are settled and old sores healed. His people are preparing ; but I don’t think they are quite as ready as he tries to convince himself. He is a small, lithe, active man, of fifty to sixty, good-looking, and of French type and characteristics all over — and speaking English quite well, uses it to make himself agreeable, enforcing his lingo with the national gesticu- lar enthusiasm. After Breakfast, my old Friend, Mr. Layard, sang for me some Southern and Confederate Songs, accompanied on the Piano by Miss Mansell, his niece, travelling with him. He has a fine voice, and being a great admirer of onr people, and sympathizing with us, sang for me most admirably, and with sjiirit, Dixie, My Maryland, Way down on the Sewanee Biver, and other Negro Songs ; till, invoking a thousand memories, he stirred me as Old Minstrels have stirred their listeners many a time before.. For the first time in some days I was able to walk the Deck with absolute confidence. The waves had let down and the Ship moved through them without a tremor, and for several hours I walked, enjoying its deep blue, white-capped surface. Nature seems to be compensatory ; with the coming of warm weather there appears to be STEAMSHIP AUSTRALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN. 336 the less necessity for exercise, and though closely confined and unable to walk my health continues perfect. Same Ship and Sea, Sunday, May 18, 1890. There was no service aboard, but all games and sports ceased in recognition of the day. Another Tropic Shower came along, this time the heaviest we have had ; the water descended in volumes, beating through the heavy close-woven canvass awning like a Sifter, and flooding the Decks. But there was no Wind nor Lightning, and save the Rain, there was no disturbance of the peace. The Thermometer went to eighty-four in the Saloon, and we could only keep quiet. The Ship, not similarly suffering, made more speed and scored three hundred and forty miles in the twenty-four hours ending at twelve o’clock noon. To-morrow, no more mishaps occur- ring, we will reach Mahe by four p. in. Whether the Ship for Mauritius will await us, we do not know. I have hitherto remarked, we ought to have been there by the sixteenth. I fear she will or can not stay, and I be compelled to give up my visit to the Cape and go on to Europe. But we will see. I will finish this Letter and give it to the Mail Agent to carry on and Post at Marseilles, in case the connection is made in Mahe ; if not, I will carry it myself. This afternoon I hfid a talk with the Son of Mr. Layard, who accompanies his Father. He is thirty-five or forty, and has spent most of his life officially or in travel among the Pacific Islands. He says he has visited all of any import, and the Natives from New Guinea and Australia Eastward are still Cannibals, the efforts and declarations of the Missionaries to the contrary notwithstanding ; and instances of this propensity and appetite are constantly occurring. On one occasion a Chief told him an oven was prepared in which to cook his Father, between whom some official difficulty had occurred, and the old gentleman barely escaped. The old gentleman himself had previously told me the same, and he felt so near the catastrophe that he fully realized the pungency of Sydney Smith’s wit, with regard to the curious feelings the Missionary must have in finding himself on the Sideboard, served up for Breakfast. 336 LETTER NO. 15. In the Evening my old Friend and I had another talk of much interest. He was again suffering, but in the intervals between the paroxysms of pain, told me interesting incidents — among them, how in his boyhood he had met Sir Walter Scott, visiting at his Father’s House in Florence. Sir Walter was then abroad seeking health and trying to restore the marvellous powers then broken down by strain of over efforts in his sad misfortunes. Mr. Layard’s Father had a beautiful Edition of his Works, just issued from the Parisian Press, and showed the Volumes to Sir Walter, who was much pleased with their elegance, and took with him the ond containing “ Count Robert of Paris,” telling Mr. Layard he wanted to see how it read in its fine clothes. When he brought it back his Father said, “ Well, Scott, what do you think of it? ” Sir Walter replied, a shade of sadness crossing his benignant face, “Ah, Layard, the dress is beautiful, but the Book itself smells of Apojdexy.” Not long thereafter the enemy came, which the Great Author thought his own work foretold. I recall in this connection an interview with Wordsworth, that George Ticknor gives an account of in his Journal, September, 1835, in which the Poet described his last visit to Sir Walter Scott, just as he was setting off for Naples, broken down in mind and body, and con- scious of it. When his last two Stories were mentioned, he said : “ Don’t speak of them ; they smell of Apoplexy.” One of the saddest Stories of all Literary History is the noble and heroic struggle of the Great Magician with a burden which bore him too early to his Grave — all the more sad because the High and the 'Good of a Country he had so greatly adorned could easily have relieved him. On Same Ship and Sea, Monday, May 19, 1890. To Taylor: I will close this Letter now and await my arrival in Mahe this afternoon, to know what to do with it. I want it to travel by the shortest route. I am hungering and thirsting to hear from you. My Letters tell you how rarely on this long Tour your tidings have come to me. Now I cannot possibly hear till I reach Cape Town. If I should go to Marseilles I will not hear any more, for I will leave your Letters behind, to be forwarded to our Home. Nothing like these contre- STEAMSHIP AUSTBALIEN— INDIAN OCEAN. 337 tem'ps have occim’ed before on any of my Travels. After our arrival at Mahe I will add a line and give you definite information. What would I not give to look in upon you all and see how things are moving? How about your improvements? How about the res- toration from the fire? How is your health? How are Dr. Mason, Margaret, and Mary? It seems an age since your Letters came mouths ago, and Margaret’s did not come. Never again will I take another extensive Tour, so I now declare. The wear and tear of absence is too great to be endured — when Letters lag upon the road or fly wanderingly over the World. I am now looking to the Cape; not that I may gratify my appetite for Travel, but that I may relieve, by your Letters there awaiting me, a famine now inflicting such unrest. To Charles: I trust all are well in Alexandria. Your last gave gloomy accounts of the invasion of the Grippe ; and how the creature knocked you all about. I hope everyone is again restored to perfect poise and health. The Letter I prepared to be mailed in Sydney by the Consul — No. 14, to Margaret — left there via San Francisco on the 16th of this Mouth by Regular Steamer. This, should I mail it, will, in the Race from opposite points of the Compass, reach you about the same time, probably. May they both have a prosperous and speedy voy- age, and a happy meeting at our Home. With tenderest love for all, F. 5 o’clock p. m. Mahe is in sight. I mail this, therefore, with the Postal Agent on the Steamer. I go on with Mr. and Mrs. Nead to Mauritius and the Cape Colonies. 22 338 LETTER NO. 16 . [No. 16.] At MahS, one of the Seycheixe Group, AND Indian Ocean, Steamship Eio Grande, Messageries Maritimes Line, Tuesday, May 20, 1890. My Dear Taylor , — Yesterday I finished No. 15 to Mary when we sighted Mahe, and mailed it in two Envelopes with the Mail Agent on the Steamship Australien, to be posted by him on arrival in Marseilles. There will be a race between that and No. 14, left with the Consul in Syd- ney to be forwarded via San Francisco. They ought to reach you, travelling from different points of the Compass, about the same time. Whatever betides them in their speed, may they both have a safe deliverance ! Onr approach and entrance to Mahe was exceedingly beautiful. It is the largest of the Seychelles — pronounced Seeshelles — a group lying, your Map will show you. Northeast of Madagascar, about 5° South. They are among England’s world-wide possessions, and are thirty-four in number. Mahe is the largest, and the one which con- nects them with the World. It is a long, narrow Island, nineteen miles by six, and is said to have a population of ten thousand, and as a Colony is subordinate to Mauritius. Early in the afternoon of yesterday we sighted various members of the Group, lifting themselves from out the Sea, which, together with the Sky, could not have been better for their introduction. All we saw were high above the water ; and approaching, they gathered thicker about and around us, unfolding more and more their charms. Along their Shores the Cocoanut trees abounded, running their most characteristic of Tropic growths up the flanks and gorges of the Mountains, out of which peeped here and there the Native Huts. Steaming on, and getting nearer and nearer to Mahe, the Islands increased in number, and vistas opened among them in exquisite and varied beauty, I have never seen surpassed ; all rising into heights thick-clad with vegetation. Mahe, much the largest of any, stretched its length for miles before ns, its elevations rising to three thousand feet or more — Port Victoria, the chief town of it and of the Group, STEAMSHIP A USTRALIEN—MAHE. 339 crouching at their feet, half hid among the trees. In all my Tropic experience, I have witnessed scarce any scene more beautiful. Our big Ship crept slowly and carefully toward the Port; and near the setting of the Sun, di’opped Anchor some distance from the Shore. Farther in we saw this Steamer, a much smaller craft, awaiting our arrival. Soon its Officers and those of the Port were aboard, and the usual salutations and business exchanges passed, and my Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nead, and I, the only First Class passengers, prepared to change our quarters. I am fortunate to have met them, and now to be their fellow-traveller. He is a business man, having been actively engaged nearly all his life in connection with the Pennsylvania Eail- road system, and he and Mrs. Nead being experienced travellers, know how to get along. He saves me an immensity of trouble in gathering information in advance, with regard to the times and modes of conveyances, and she insists upon helping me in any way she can. We all agree well as fellow-voyageurs ; and together we propose to visit the Cape Colonies, and thence to England. When the hour of our departure came, and the Steam Launch was ready to convey us, the Passengers of the Australien, all of whom by this time I knew, assembled on Deck to bid us Good Bye ! and moving off, they sent us their farewells and kindest wishes with waving of hats and handkerchiefs, and my noble looking Friend, Mr. Layard, with his snow-white, flowing hair, sang me “ My Maryland,” his full, rich voice sounding through the darkness over the waters with sweetest melody. I was sorry to part from the old man, for we can hardly ever meet again. He gave me his card and address in England, and made me promise to write to him on my arrival at Home and tell him how time and travel tided with me on my Jour- ney : he and Mrs. Layard giving me Letters of Introduction to rela- tives and friends at the Cape. The Launch speedily brought us to the Steamer Rio Grande, where preparations were made for our reception, and soon I was quartered in a nice, comfortable State-Room to myself. The Vessel looks very small in comparison with the Australien, being only two thousand six hundred tons ; but things are comfortable enough, and I have no doubt I will have a pleasant voyage to Mauritius. Thus ends another long link — three thousand nine hundred and twenty-two miles from King George’s Sound, Australia — six thousand and three miles from Sydney ; that much nearer Home. V ery soon after coming aboard. 340 LETTER NO. 16 . I was in Bed, and fast asleep ; a little tired after the farewells of the transfer. This morning, I was up by daylight to see our departure from Mahe. The going out by the Rising, Avas as exquisite as the coming in by the Setting Sun. At half-past six or seven we Avere under Avay, moving near the Australien on our passage. Again our friends were on Deck to greet us. My old Comrade was there among them. I sent him the watchword of “ My Maryland !” and he responded by singing, with his melodious voice, one of its stanzas and refrain ; and then our Ship steamed out ujaou its course, and soon the Australien, and then Mahe, sank beloAV the waters. [The promise to Mr. Layard, and a similar one to Miss Mansell, the nice young Lady travelling under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Layard, I fulfilled. Their responses, containing nothing whatever of a private nature, I desire to preserve as, to me, interesting travel incidents, and therefore print them here. Budleigh, Satteeton, Devonshire, England, October 31, 1890. My Dear Governor Holliday , — Your Letter of September 3 has found me down in this pretty Devonshire Village, AA^here I have taken a house for the Winter mouths, Avith the option of a long lease if I like the place, and Avhat is of more consequence, if it likes me ! if I can live here in the Winter. Every one who lives here speaks of its salubrity. It is one of the warm nooks of England, and our house is on a terrace, sheltei’ed from all the cold winds, and open to the South. We have a nice Sea view, a Garden before and behind, a nice Green House, a glass-covered Verandah around the front side, Coach House and Stable. The soil is sandy and drainage good. We have been down here a month, and like Avhat we have seen of the place. Everybody is beginning to call, as Ave are “ settling doAvn,” and there is a very nice, select Society — no end of Clubs and Societies : Tennis Club, Foot-ball, Cricket Club, Glee Club, Reading Society, Dramatic Society, Funny Reading, &c., and much sociability ; many Old Indian Officials, Civil, LETTER FROM E. C. LA YARD. 341 Military and Naval ; Retired Officers ; promising, I think, that we shall have a good time. I have found several old friends living in the neighborhood, and am going to an early Dinner with Admiral Moorman this afternoon at Exmouth, four miles off. He took my late beloved wife and me to New Zealand in his Ship, H. M. S. Cossack, twenty-nine years ago ! Leo [Mr. Layard’s Son] and I have had some jolly Sea fishing, and are promised a permit to fish for Salmon and Trout in the Otter, which debouches here into the Sea, and is one of the best Trout Rivers in England. My dear wife has been very busy furnishing and getting the house in order. I chaff her and tell her she ought to be very happy spend- ing so much money, which occupation all Ladies like. She and Leo send their kindest regards to you, and are delighted to hear of the success of your Globe girdling. I told you you would be pleased with Mauritius. It is a lovely spot, is it not? And so you saw plenty of the Cape Colony, and the Museum in Cape Town, which I founded. I am sorry, however, that you missed seeing Dr. Atherton and Mr. Carter. The latter returns home in the Spring of next year. Now you want a reply to your questions about my health. There is little alteration ; at times I suffer awfully. The Doctors say all has been done that can be done, and time alone will show how it will end. The horrible suppuration still continues. I said to my Doctor the other day : “ This shows that decay is going on ; ” he nodded. “ Then, it may cut away the bone, touching the brain, and death or madness will be the result?” “Yes!” he said, “that may be so; but we will hope that it is a long way off : your constitution is so good, that we hope you will live it down!” At 67 one cannot hope to live down much ! ! Now you know the verdict. I know too much of Anatomy to be deceived. I don’t hide from myself what may be the result. All that I hope is, that it may be Death, not Madness. My Dear Wife and Son are both quite well, and desire all sorts of kind wishes and remembrances for you. We often talk of you, with most pleasurable recollections. After you left us at Mah6, one of the Stewards attempted two robberies : one on a new passenger, the other on Mrs. Moore’s Diamond Rings in the middle of the night. Moore jumped out of his Berth and grappled him, but he got away. Moore 342 LETTER NO. 16 . was badly hurt. Nothing was brought home to the man, owing to the Captain’s indecision, but suspicion was so sti’ong against him, that he was left at Aden, My Wife, the moment she set eyes on him coming on board, said, ‘‘That man is. a ruffian !” Our kind remem- brances to Mr. and Mrs, Nead, if they eV^er get home again, and with every good wish for yourself, Believe me most sincerely yours, E, C. Layard. H. B. M. Consulate, Stettin, November 12, 1890. 3Iy Dear Governor Holliday , — Many thanks for your kind, interesting Letter, and very excellent Photogi’aph, I have the latter in a pretty frame, and value both highly. Kindly forgive my seeming neglect in not having acknowl- edged their receipt before. I have many times intended doing so, but my fingers have been at times too cold, and there have been other causes to prevent my doing so, the chief being, that I have had sad accounts from home of my Dear Father’s health, and, consequently, had no heart to write to any one. I think I told you he had a spell of sickness when I left home. At Melbourne and Adelaide they sent me news of his fast regaining health, and I received a dear Letter from him, and better accounts still on my arrival here. But since then I hear he is not so well ; indeed, has not been well since I left home. I am very unhappy about him, but, of course, have to suppress my grief as much as possible here. My Sister and Mr, Powell are delighted to have me with them, and do all in their power to make my visit a pleasant one. They have two sweet children, a boy and girl, Mansell 8, and Lynette 6 : the latter quite a little Lord Fauntleroy girl, very fair, with blue eyes. They are both lovable and affectionate, and, of course, we are great friends. They know about you, and Lynette thinks you look very kind. I take lessons in German with their Fraulein, and find it rather easy to read and write the Language ; but speaking it, much more difficult. I, also, take lessons in Music, but from teachers who, unlike Fraulein, do not know a word of English, My Sister thinks LETTER FROM MISS MARY MANSELL. 343 that an advantage, and we manage to understand each other some- how. This being an important Military City, there are soldiers of all kinds and descri2)tions to be seen and met constantly. The Officers are very nice, indeed. It is customary for Gentlemen to bow to Ladies first ; which, with other customs, I found strange. But you have been in Germany, and know their manners and customs better than I. On the River Oder there are great Docks ; the V ulcan Works, where the Horth German Lloyd Steamers are built. The Kaiser Wilhelm II., which left Sydney a few days before we did, is one of that Line, you know. In warm weather we used to have most delightful outings to different^ picturesque spots. The Forests are very charming, especially the Beech. One day some children acted the “Babes in the Wood,” much to my delight. The lights and shades reminded me of “ A Midsummer Night’s Dream ; ” I could suj^ply the characters and other inhabitants of Fairy Land. It was very sweet in the other mortals to get up such an entertainment for this mortal’s jdeasure. Last year some Tyrolese Singers visited the spot ; the effect was admirable. If they come again before I go home, I hope to hear them. We drove one day to Seven Mills and Ponds. Mr. Powell took his Camera and Photograjihed us. We, also, had a German Country Tea or Supper there, and enjoyed it very much ; the Miller and one of his pretty Daughters waiting on us. Everything being new to me, rendered it the more interesting. Generally, after five o’clock, we would go to some pretty sjiot down the River ; often to Concerts, which were of the best kind and of the highest Class, held in the open air, hundreds of chairs and tables being jjlaced in the Gardens, that were decorated with hanging Baskets of Flowers, and Ferns, and numerous colored Lanterns, which with the Electric Lights made a brilliant scene, to which the River added, with its many Steamers and Boats of every sort and size passing to and fro. Returning on a Steamer at ten o’clock, we would stoj) at a Restaurant and have a good hot Siqjper. High living, you will say. No ! only doing in Germany as the Germans. Now, the Opera Season is on. I am looking forward to many more charming hours. At a Concert one Evening, Tanuhauser was rendered so exquisitely, I seemed to hear Music for the first time. 344 LETTER NO. 16 . Soon tliei'e will be the usual Winter Entertain ments, Dinners, Balls, Skating, and so forth, which I shall only too gladly tell you about, if you care to hear of my doings again. My Sister and Mr. Powell read your Letter with much pleasure, and thought it exceedingly kind in you to write. We had an attempted burglary on the Australien at Mahe the night you left us. Some one attempted to steal Mrs. Moore’s Finger Rings. She woke just as the thief was going to gag or stab her, and roused her husband, who called for assistance, but in vain; he ran after the person and got two wounds, one in the shoulder and one in the arm. I think the poor woman was terribly upset, and I was myself terrified, being quite alone in the large Cabin. Kind Mrs. Lambert went with me to the door the first night, and waited while I turned on the light and searched in the empty Cabin near and in my own before venturing to bed, and told me if I felt nervous, to knock on her childrens’ wall, and she would instruct them to reply at any time. The Moores’ insisted upon a thorough investigation ; the suspecjed person was imprisoned before we left Mahe, and then sent off quietly at Aden. Kind Captain Didier was greatly annoyed about the matter, and excited our sympathy. Soon after that a gentleman who sat next to Mrs. Moore, you remember, became very ill, and lost his mind ; Soldiers had to watch him day and night, and only that, fortunately, the weather was un- usually cool, and a breeze stirring in the Red Sea, he must have died. An English Army Doctor came on board at Aden, and he and our Doctor held a consultation. You see what a Chapter of accidents we had after you left us. On the Red Sea we passed through an army of Locusts. I enclose a pair of wings to let you know what they are like ; maybe you have had experience of a similar phenomenon on your extensive trawels. For miles, indeed a whole day and night, we steamed through them. On either side of the Ship the thick lines of brilliant coloring with the glowing Sunshine and the deep blue waters had a dazzling effect. We wei’e about sixty miles from the nearest land, and about six hun- dred from Suez when they were first seen, and it was marvellous how they could keep alive such a distance, only a very few managing to fly on board ; they managed well to keep on the top of the masses of dead so long. A West wind blew them from Egypt. LETTER FROM MISS MARY 3IANSELL. 345 We went on Shore at Mah6 and had a delicious early Breakfast; only the Layards and myself saw the Turtle Ponds, the double Cocoannt Trees in the Government Grounds, the Post Office, Church of England, and everything interesting possible in the short time. I was presented with an excellent bunch of Frangipani Flowers, and Mrs. Layard with some Guava Jelly by our host. The Natives afforded us much interest and amusement. At Port Said we, also, went off to see the sights. It is a very interesting place. Don’t be shocked when I tell you I visited the Roulette Table there. Mr. and Mrs. Layard took me into the Casino, and we drank Coffee out of glasses, and listened to the Music. Seeing some of our Lady and Gentleman passengers go into a side Room, Mrs. Layard said I might go, too. I found them standing before a Table, with piles of Gold and Silver. Being told what it meant, never having seen anything of the kind before, I put down a Shilling between three numbers and immediately won six. The Donkeys afforded me great amusement, some of them called Mrs. Langtry, Mary Anderson, and other well-known names. Of course, the Donkey men and boys begged us to take a ride, and I would have been persuaded, and I know have enjoyed the fun im- mensely, but did not like to alone, and my good people could not be expected to join me at their age. The fine Ship Australien went right through the Suez Canal with- out stopping. How wonderfully interesting it is ! May 24, Captain Didier gave us a Champagne Dinner; Sir Eugene L., a new-comer, proposed the Queen’s health, and Mr. Layard the French Republic and Captain Didier; afterwards, “God save the Queen ” was played and sung. Mr. Munroe, the sick passenger of whom I have spoken, sent Mr. Layard and myself an extra Bottle of Champagne in honor of the occasion. We remained a few days in Marseilles, driving about to the various places of interest, and then went on to Paris, staying there, also, a few days, seeing as much of the City of Charms as we could in that time. Then my friends put me in charge of a staid old Courier, who escorted me safely to Berlin. En Route, we spent some time in the wonderful Cathedral of Cologne ; fortunately. Service was holding at the time, and I heard the grand Organ and Choir. We spent a few hours in Berlin, but I hope to see more of it soon. 346 LETTER NO. 16 . My Sister says I must, of course, visit England before I return to my home in dear beautiful Sydney, She tells me what a marvellous Country America is, of the the beauty and grandeur of its Scenery ; but, alas ! it is not at all likely tliat I will ever be fortunate enough to see it. Are you ever likely to visit Sydney again ? If so I surely hope you will honor my Dear ones with a visit, I wrote to them about your kindness to me. Last week I sent Mother a box of Flowers, and other little things that my friends here have been good enough to teach me how to make for Christmas, and my having made them will, I am sure, please and interest them all at that happy time. It gets dark so very early now, I can scarcely see to write. Mrs. Layard has not yet replied to my last Letter, and I cannot, therefore, tell you how Dear Mr. Layard is. Doubtless, he has written you himself, ere this. I have very many mementoes of my first Voyage on the good Australien. The Doctor gave me a large group of him- self, Captain Didier, and the other Officers of the Ship. It is most excellent. Believe me, Yours most siucei'ely, Avith my very kindest regards, Mary Mansell. If you visit Sydney again, I hope I shall be at home. There are so many lovely spots we know of, that all strangers should see — on the Hawkesbury and Georsfes River for instance. M. M.] The Seychelles are interesting Islands and of some Commercial value. Their chief exports are Vanilla and Cocoanuts and Oil, They have Beef, Turtle and Land Tortoises — the last of enormous size, some of a thousand pounds in weight ; and three of them, Pras- lin, Curieuse and Rotonde alone produce the Coco-de-Mer, or Double Cocoanut, one of the strangest and most curious freaks of Nature I have ever seen. Mr. McDonald, a Scotchman, now living in Aus- ti’alia, on his way to his old home, a fellow passenger on the Austra- lien, bought one from a Native purposely to present to me. I should have liked to take it home, but it was too large and heavy, and I could not carry it. The Seychelles are of Granite formation, though abutting: on Coral Banks : after Nature’s fierce fires had built the STEAMSHIP RIO GRANDE— INDIAN OCEAN. 347 Mountains, the industrious little insect fringed them with Reefs of its own delicate Architecture. OIF about one hundred miles towards the Southwest lie the Amiraute Group — the final e silent, or expressed at pleasure in pronunciation — eleven in number, only twenty or twenty- five feet above the Sea, and of purely coral workmanship. These, also, are British Possessions. When I went on Deck this morning I met a Frenchman, now living in Mah6, on his way to Mauritius, who speaks English, and we had some talk. He told me there was a Dr. Abbott, from Phila- delphia, on board, who had spent some time in Africa. AVhen I was, a few moments after, taking my Coffee, I met him, and during the day had a great deal of talk with him about Africa and its people. I introduced him to Mr. and Mrs. Nead, and being all Philadel- phians, they had much conversation about things and people with which and whom they are mutually acquainted. I ought jto have mentioned, that most of those who gathered about the Ships at Mahe to sell Curios and the like, or who came aboard as operatives, were ^Negroes, or Mulattos — called Creoles; the Negroes like ours; the Mulattos generally a feebler looking set than the same class with us. The Negroes found their way here from Africa. We steamed all day due South over the Indian Ocean, bound for the Island of Boux’bon or Reunion. Soon we drove into a heavy Tropic shower ; which, however, lasted bnt a while. The clouds then drifted off, and the Steamer bravely breasted the Trade Winds and Equatorial current, meeting us from the Southeast strongly. The Thermometer on Deck, protected from the wind, stood at eighty- three, but the stiff breeze drove away all sense of heat, and to sit and enjoy the outlook over the deep Blue water was delightful. On Same Ship and Ocean, Wednesday, May 21, 1890. Our Ship is old, but staunch and good. She has numbered a quarter of a century, it is said, the most venerable of her fleet, but she is evidently solid and substantial, and fights the thugging waves with- out a tremor. We are not at all crowded in First Class; indeed, several vacant State-Rooms. But a different rule prevails with regard to passengers from that upon the Australien and Steamers of other Lines on which I have voyaged. Here the Second Class, while fed 348 LETTER NO. 16. and lodged in their own compartments and section of the Vessel, are allowed to use and occupy the Quarter-Deck assigned to those who have paid First Class fare. This makes it rather crowded, and arouses feeling among some, who say they do not get what they paid for, whilst others get much more. I do not feel thus, and am perfectly willing to enlarge the Deck to Uncle Toby’s world, jjrovided the Fly is not obnoxious. One of these Second Class 1 met to-day, and found him a gentle- man from one of the Comoro. Islands — all the syllables of CbmSrb are pronounced short. Pie gave me an interesting account of them. They are a Group of four, lying between Africa and Madagascar at the Northern Entrance of the Mozambique Channel, and Southwest of tlie Seychelles and the Amirantes. They ai’e named Great Comoro or Angadziza ; Little Comoro or Mohilla; Anjnan or Johanna; and Mayotta. The French bought Mayotta in 1841 from a Chieftain, and now claim a protectorate over all. Great Comoro is larger than all the rest of them together; and has a Volcano, eight thousand five hundred feet in height, but not a droj) of running water. Its Inhabi- tants number several thousand, who are dependent solely upon water gathered from the rains, and the milk of the Cocoanut. Mohilla is the finest of the Group, and has a large trade with Madagascar and the East Coast of Africa, containing a population of six or seven thousand; though my new friend says that all save the Gi’eat Comoro are doing well in the cultivation of Sugar. Its people are nearly all Maliomedans. The stiff current and breeze confronted us all day ; a little too much to be comfortable, but better than the heat, which would have prevailed without them, for the Thermometer continued at more than eighty. We are out of sight of Land, and no Birds are in the air; the Ocean and the Sky alone environed us, but all oppressiveness was dissipated by the currents which came from both. On Same Ship and Ocean, Thursday, May 22, 1890. Another fine clear day, Avith weather and Sea much like that of yesterday ; our Ship still breasting the Equatorial Avinds and waves, but making rapid progress. The Captain is trying to catch up the time lost at Mahe in waiting for us, and in our run to Reunion will STEAMSHIP RIO ORANDE— INDIAN OCEAN. 349 probably make a clay. We scored upon our Log, in the last twenty- four hours, nearly three hundred miles — good speed for a Vessel of our size and build. To this I have no objection ; around us is nothing to detain — only bare Sea and Sky. I had much talk with the Second Class gentleman already referred to, whose name, he informed me, is Sunley. He has large Sugar Plantations on two of the Comoros, succeeding his Father in their cultivation, wdio was, also, English Consul there for many years ; he has been there for ten. He cultivates them with Slave Negroes from East Africa; some of whom he owns, some he hires ; in number about two thousand. They are euphoniously called Engages; for under French as under English Rule, they are undergoing Emancipation, and by the System in five years they will all be free. We had much conversation of a similar character with those I had with Napoleon Davis at his Home in Cuba, and with the Count de Nova Friburga in Brazil, on my First and Fifth Tours, and of the same import. These conversations, you will recall, and the Letter I received from Mr. Davis a short time ago, confirming our anticipa- tions : Mr. Sunley, with his long experience and that of his Father, forecasts the same. When Emancipation comes, the Plantations wall go. The Negroes are very low, and will drift back to Savagery ; utterly unable to take care of themselves under Civilized forms. He emancipated a few years ago eighty of his own, every one of whom ceased work and became worthless vagabonds. When the time for their freedom comes, the time will have also come for the surrender and desertion of the Estates, and their lapse, with the Negroes, into waste and barbarism. Dr. Abbott’s views with regard to the Negroes is the same. He has been travelling for several years in Zanzibar, in the region of Kilimanjaro and beyond ; sometimes with Stephens, who rolled around the World on his Bicycle, sometimes alone, his only com- panions the Natives, who are Negroes. He wuis born and educated in Philadelphia, with an instinctive antipathy to Slavery, but without any knowledge whatever of the Slaves, thinking those wmre correct who talked of freeing and lifting them to an equality with the w'hites. Since he has seen and lived with the Negroes, and knows them, he has learned what wild extravagance the wdiole thing is, and the course of the Northern people in effect a monstrous crime. He regards them in capacity and capabilities but little above the Ape ; and long resi- 350 LETTER NO. 16 . dence among them, instead of elevating, minifies his opinion both of their mental and moral qualities, and their ability to take on either thought or virtue. Fond of Natural Science, wandering in unknown and unexplored Regions, he is full of their fascination, and appreciates how travellers have become bewitched with the inexhaustible volume of their mysteries and are unwilling to give them up.* He has come to this himself; and will, return to Africa to continue his explorations. Leaving the unhealthi- ness of the Shore Line, he says, and ascending the inner high plateaus of Zanzibar, he comes to a Country unsurpassed in healthfulness, and crowded with interest to the Naturalist. From his enthusiasm, I doubt whether he will ever return : charmed with the freedom of his life, like Daniel Boone, will simply retire before the advance of Civilization into deeper wilds, should there be any wilds left upon the bosom of the Earth. Northeast of the Comoros, and between them and the Amirantes, are several small Islands — Aldebra, Fauquhar, Providence, Cosmo Ledo, and others of not much importance. Aldebra is the habitat of the famous Land Tortoises, of which I have already spoken, and thence imported into Mahe. All the Islands I have named are North, Northwest, and Northeast of the great Madagascar, and, save the Comoros, are, by claim of England, under her guardianship ; as are, also, the Chagos Archipelago, a numerous Group in mid-Indian Ocean, due East of the Seychelles; and between them and Mauritius, are many scattered Islands, called Detached and Oil Islands — the most of which are Coral, and their products. Turtles, and Cocoanuts, and Oil — all within seven hundred miles or thereabouts, and Depend- encies of the British Mauritian Rule. On Same Ship and Ocean, And at Island of Bouebon, Friday, May 23, 1890. Eaily this morning we saw far olf the lofty Mountains of Bourbon or Reunion. The Island became more and more conspicuous as we advanced, stretching along the horizon for thirty-six miles, rising from low ground at either end, towards the centre into elevations of from seven to ten thousand feet, with a deep cleft torn by Volcanic STEAMSHIP RIO GRANDE— ISLAND OF BOURBON. 351 action, from which a gulch or chasm reaches to the Sea, adding much to the impressiveness of the spectacle. Approaching, we could see large areas in Sugar Cane, and here and there. Mills, and the habitations of the Planters ; though to the distant eye, not much of Forest. Here and there, other gulches seamed the Mountain sides, which, getting closer, were clad in green. Scarce any level land appeared, and Bourbon presented from the Steamer the front and outlines of a sure enough Mountain Island. After a while, St. Denis came in sight toward the Eastern part of the Island on the low ground ; and on the West of the centre, the Point du Galets — pronounced Gallee — now the chief Port of Bour- bon. It, too, is on the low ground, behind which the lofty Mountains of which I have spoken rise. A Bailroad now connects the two Ports of St. Denis and Point du Galets, fourteen miles in length, one half of which runs near the Shore and in full view, the other by a tunnel cut through the Mountains, which there come down precipi- tously to the water. This Road was built by France at an enormous cost, and I should think hardly a good investment. She has, also, built a Harbor, cut out of the Lava, at an expense of fifteen millions of dollars. Into it our Steamer entered by careful tolling, and by two o’clock we were securely at the Landing — distant from Mahe, nine hundred and eighty-five miles. Most of the laborers who appeared to load and unload the cargo were Negroes; there were some Mulattoes and people of Indian and Malayan Type, but the full-bred Negro was the sturdiest of them all. There were some Chinese ; but they did not seem to be Cooleys, rather gentlemen, free from the necessity of labor, save with the head ; that portion of John’s anatomy having lifted him above the others. Whilst the Ship was thus engaged, Mr. and Mrs. Nead and Mr. Sunley and I walked out to see the town. It was dusty with pul- verized Lava, for there Avere no pavements, indeed, hardly streets, the houses scattered about : those of the better classes built of v'ood in European style; of the lower, simple huts of frame and grass, both roof and sides. Dr. Abbott left us to go into the Interior, and hence, to return to Africa — of which, as I have remarked, the strange, though usual, fascination has seized him. This Island is Volcanic, one of which, Piton de la Fournaise, is active, but gave ns no exhibition of it during the day. Its popula- tion is more than two hundred thousand, and its products, Sugar, 352 LETTER NO. 16 . Coffee, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Cloves, Cocoanuts, and Oil ; and its high ground makes it healthy. It is one of the Mascarenas Group and belongs to France; the other two, Mauritius and Roderiguez — pro- nounced Roderiqs — belong to England. They are in the neighbor- hood of 20° South — the same or thereabouts that the Hawaiian Islands and Cuba are North in the other Hemisphere — and about four hundred miles East of Madagascar. Roderiguez is, I think, about five hundred Northeast of Mauritius ; much smaller than that or Bourbon, but regarded as salubrious and fertile. A good many of our passengers left us here ; a few took their places. We steamed and warped from the narrow Harbor near Sun- set, which behaved itself gorgeously for us, and outside, on the calm Sea, waited for the Mails. At eight o’clock p. m. we started for Mauritius, or Isle de France, distant one hundred and thirty-five miles. We steamed Eastward along Bourbon’s Coast, passing the Port St. Denis’ Lights, sparkling on the Shore, and behind them on the Mountain the blaze of the Volcano, burning like a furnace — a brilliant sight, the Stars above out with their myriad lamps, and the New Moon, in the opposite Heavens, with her upturned Crescent, firey red. George Sand has, in her earliest Novel, Indiana, given an admir- able description of this beautiful Island of Bourbon. On the Same Ship and Ocean, And at the Island of Mauritius, Universal Hotel, Curepipe, Saturday, May 24, 1890. This has been a day full of interest to the traveller. At daylight, Mauritius was in sight; a different scene altogether from that of Bourbon. There, it was seemingly a single Mountain rising from the Shore, and well-nigh cleft in twain by fierce Volcanic forces; here, it was numerous Peaks of most curious and striking outline, between which Valleys rested, and on the North a level plain for miles extending to the Ocean, blooming with luxuriant Tropic vege- tation. Like Bourbon, the whole Island seemed spread before us, and both, apparently, by coup d’oeil, showed us their distinguishing characteristics. They are of nearly the same size; but I do not think that, from the Sea, Bourbon with its lofty, bulky elevation is at all STEAMSHIP RIO GRANDE— PORT LOUIS. 353 to be compared to Mauritius, with its numerous and picturesque, though less lofty Peaks. Conspicuous among them from the Sea, approaching in the bright, early morning, were Peter Botte, two thousand eight hundred feet in height, crowned with a sharp cone-peak of naked stone, which, in turn, is crowned with what seems to be a boulder, though I am told it, too, is part of the living Rock ; and Mount Pouce, thus called, because it is like the thumb of the elevated hand, pointing upwards, about the same height with Peter Botte, and both striking objects amid the other Mountains. On the Shore lies Port Louis, the chief Harbor and Capital of Mauritius, much hid among the trees ; and numerous Ships of Steam and Sail anchored well in, among which we cast our own. Soon the Surgeon of the Port was aboard, inquiring of our health. Happily, our Surgeon could show a clean Bill, and we were passed ; I say happily, because a little more than twenty years ago — 1867 — the Cooleys from India brought some disease that grew into a fright- ful Epidemic, whicli, attacking high and low, carried off thirty or forty thousand people ; since which time, the Island constantly and scrupulously quarantines, upon the slightest pretext. Mr. Sunley says, he has been here before three times, and was unfortunate enough on every occasion to be quarantined, at great expense and incon- venience. Fortunately, our Surgeon reported us a clean and healthy set. No sooner had we come to Anchor, than many row boats sped out from Shore, seeking custom. They were nearly all manned — two to each — by Lascars or Sailors from India ; and I saw again through the lapse of time since I was there, the clean-cut phiz of the Hindoo. We engaged two boats to carry us and our traps ashore; our baggage had been transferred to one of them, and we wei’e descend- ing the Steamer stairway to take the other, when we wei’e courteously and kindly invited by a gentleman to his Steam Launch, saying he would cheerfully transfer us to the Shore. He introduced himself as the Harbor Master of Port Louis, and when we reached the Landing, informed the Customs Officers who we were. I had, in addition, a Letter of Introduction to a prominent Merchant of the town, volun- tarily given me by the Chief Agent of the Messageries Maritimes in Sydney, which I presented to the Customs Officer in identification, and our baggage was forthwith passed without examination. We hired a cart to transfer it to the Railway Station, a few hundred 23 354 LETTER NO. 16 . yards off, — determining not to stay in Port Louis during the few days intervening before our departure for Africa, but come up to this higher and healthier spot. The Station Agent sent it at once by a Train then going, we postponing our departure till a later, thus getting rid of our impedimenta^ whilst we prospected Port Louis and its surroundings. We hired a Carriage and pair from an Indian Driver, who spoke good English, and recommended himself to me by his striking like- ness to Bahna, my old Hindoo Guide and Servant, both in smartness and appearance. The Carriage was an open Victoria, with four seats inside. I made Mr. and Mrs. Nead take the inside; I took mine by the Driver, and with ray umbrella kept off the Sun — which during the day was hot ; though, shielded from its rays, the air was balmy enough under the motion of our Carriage. Having only had our morning Coffee, we drove to a Restaurant and took our Breakfast, to fit us the better for the labors of the day. Thinkiug it safer, we then drove to the Stearashij) Office of the Castle Line — otherwise, Donald Currie Line, after Sir Donald Currie, who founded the Company and now controls it — to secure onr passage to Africa. It is called the Castle Line, from the fact that the Ships are named after the Castles of Great Britain and Ireland : thus, the one on which we go is called the “ Dunrobiu Castle ; ” it is already in the Harbor, having arrived a few days ago, and will leave for D’Urban, the chief Port of Natal, whither we are next bound, on the coming Wednesday, in the afternoon. Mr. Frayser, the Chief Agent, received us very courteously, but informed us that the List of Passengers was full, and he feared he could not give us First Class State Rooms — only Second Class ; but would send for the Captain and do everything in his power to fix us comfortably, aud write to us on Monday at Curepipe, whither we told him we were going. AVe then continued our drive to Pamplemousses — pronounced Pam- plemouss — where are located the famous Gardens of Mauritius. Mr. Frayser courteously, without our request, gave us a Letter of Intro- duction to Mr. Scott, the Chief Gardener, who, he was sure, would make our visit more pleasant and profitable. The drive was one of great interest; the horses admirable, making the distance, seven miles, in less than an hour, over a broad, well-graded, aud smooth Maca- damized road, bounded on either side, the entire distance, by dense ISLAND OF MAURITIUS— GARDENS. 355 Tropic growths, out of which peeped the humble cottages of the lowly, or thi’ough which, far and near, opened vistas to the handsome Villas of the rich. These things made the ride interesting ; but the people which thronged this Avenue made it memorable, rivalling the roads in Java in the crowds which frequented it, and recalling India in the type of its population. For the large majority of the inhabitants of the Island are Indians from Hindoostan, and driving along I had around me the same people who afforded me such infinity of interest a few years ago, in their own wonderful Country : the same thinly- clad, and keen-visaged, regular-featured Race that in their fateful story have written so much of the World’s noblest and saddest His- tory, and whose fathers were our own, and started us, too, upon our career, from their beginning on the Caspian Sea. Here they are, just as I saw them in India — men, women, and children — doing fatefully their allotted work, though in a foreign land : the first toiling like their ancestors have done before them for centuries ; the last two — their ears, and nose, and ankles, and arms burdened with trinkets of silver and gold — impelled by the same ancestral instincts. Besides these, there were a few Negroes, a few Malays, a few of the White Nationalities and Creole mixtures and John Chinaman the inevitable, amid such a number of inferior Races, dominating — chiefly occupying shops and stores, and like a spider in his parlor, weaving out of the labor of all, his comfortable web. When we reached the Gardens, we called on Mr. Scott, and our Letter from Mr. Frayser opened to us. He is a fine young Scotch- man, and forthwith gave us hearty welcome, and went with us through, showing us everything of interest. We spent several hours, in our ramble, examining the curious Tropic growths — indigenous and foreign : the Ti’aveller’s Tree, from Madagascar, which holds water in its leaves, not as sap, as sometimes supposed, but simply mechanic- ally, and when punctured pours it out beneficently to the thirsty wayfarer : our Gardener tested it with success ; but at the same time he told us its name had more of romance in it than reality, for it was not a dry, but an aquatic Plant, and when the thirsty traveller came across it, he found water, too. The Coco-de-Mer, or Double Cocoa- nut Tree, which has enormous leaves — when in perfection, with a spread of fourteen by twenty feet — but of growth exceeding slow : some he had were more than thirty years of age, and, apparently, had hardly begun to live ; this Tree, I have already told you, belongs 356 LETTER NO. 16 . to the Seychelles ; he showed us, also, the Lace-leaf Plant, a water growth, whose leaves resemble Lace in delicacy of texture — a Mada- gascar growth ; he gave ns some, which I will send or carry home ; the Vegetable Ivory, another species of the Palm Tree, and trees and plants, whose names alone I cannot stop to enumerate, let alone describe their properties. We visited in the Gardens the old Mansion, where the Governor lived when Mauritius belonged to France, and where in 1810 the treaty was signed, ceding it to England ; and in another part the Monument, a simple affair, to those who had at any time been friends of or conferred benefits on the Island, whose names are thereon inscribed, together with a quotation from Bernardine de St. Pierre, to the effect, that he who had thus done for the benefit of his Race, had built a Monument more lasting than the Pyramids. Such had St. Pierre himself accomplished for Mauritius, in writing the simple story of Paul and Virginia, the scene of whose famous lines he here laid — whether from some legend or the fruit of his own imagi- nation, we do not know. This we know, that they are better and will be longer known than any whose name has been or, doubtless, will ever be connected with Mauritius, for the genius of the Poet has given them a local habitation and enshrined them without surcease in the hearts of living men and women everywhere, however shadowy their own. One of the French Governors built a Pedestal of Stone, stuccoed, and put on it a plaster-figure of Flora : the figure has gone, and only the Iron Rod which sustained it is standing on the Pedestal. But what had the Goddess Flora to do here in the presence of the Genius which enshrined Paul and Virginia in the hearts of all the AForld? Therefore, the Mauritians resolved, that the time-worn Pedestal shall represent the Tomb of Paul and Virginia, and have so announced; and, therefore, the earnest, honest traveller comes first of all, when in the Island, to this most venerated of its objects and, to him, sacred spot, and sheds a tear over the scene of so much love and steadfastness; just as he does over the grave of Abelard and Heloise in the splendid burial-place of Paris, or over the Grave and Death-scene of Hamlet and Ophelia at Elsinore. Thus did I, with utmost reverence, to-day. To relieve us of the burden of these sad thoughts, our friend, the Gardener, took us to see two enormous Land Tortoises brought from the Island of Aldebra. I have already spoken of the creatures and ISLAND OF MAURITIUS— CUREPIPE. 357 the monstrous size to which they grow. They are harmless and without teeth, and when walking, are strikingly like an Elephant in their legs and motion. Some years ago I saw one at the Smithsonian in Washington, but much smaller; these must each weigh several hundred pounds. We then walked with our friend to his house and took some I'efreshments, and then, with many thanks for his kind attention and with invitations to visit us in our own Country, drove back to Port Louis, through the people and scenes I have hitherto described. On our return, we passed through the Barracks and Parade Ground and the Streets of the City, and then to the Station, arriving in time to take the afternoon train to this place, about four o’clock, distant sixteen miles from Port Louis, and near the centre of the Island. Curepipe is pronounced Curepeep, and is said to be derived from the fact, that in the old days, it was the halting or resting place of pedestrians across the Island, being half way — where they cleaned out and replenished their pipes — which is expressed in the compo- sition of the word — the pronunciation resulting from the French vowel sounds. The Koad is a good one, broad gauge, and the cars comfortable, of English and Continental Coach construction. It ascends by easy gradients to the elevation here of eighteen hundred and six feet, and hence goes on to Maheburg — pronounced Mayburg — seated on the opposite side of the Island. Forest Side, one mile beyond Curepipe, is eighteen hundred and twelve feet, the highest point of the Road. The Country, like that on the Pamplemousses’ Road, is Tropical in the extreme, passing through Sugar Plantations, which are from the high grounds to be seen stretching, with their habitations and mills, to the Mountains and the Sea on either hand. Now, they are near the Road, now far off, ways leading to them like avenues, through thick Tropic vegetation, aglow with flowers. The splendid Mountains, too, we see on either hand, stand like Sentinels on the left, some already named now seen in the reverse — Peter Botte, Pouce, Trois Mamelles, significant in their names ; and on the right. Corps du Garde, equally significant, in bold and defiant outline. Surely Mauritius, in varied richness and beauty, has not been overdrawn, and will rank in my memory with Java, Ceylon, and the Hawaiian Islands, in brilliant Scenery. 358 LETTER NO. 16 . On reaching Cnrepipe Station, we found our baggage had arrived safely, and taking a Carriage for ourselves, we came to this Hotel, half a mile off, our traps coming after us, borne on the heads of five or six Indian Cooleys, reminding me again of my Hindoostan experi- ence. Soon, we were comfortably quartered in adjoining Rooms. The Sun in its direct rays was warm ; when he disappeared and when night came, cool air came with it; dew began to gather in volume, and dripped from the roof like a shower, and I slept com- fortably under a heavy blanket. The Hotel is English ; near by, is a French one. Ours is full. The guests seem to be all English ; some of whom will go on the same Steamer with ourselves. But I have had little or no talk with any of them. While it occurs to me, I will mention that Rupees are the currency of Mauritius, as of India, you remember. The Rupee is divided into one hundred cents ; at par it is equal to half a Dollar. It is now, however, from thirty to forty cent under par. At Same Hotel, Curepipe, Island of Mauritius, Sunday, May 25, 1890. We spent the day quietly at Curepipe. The Hotel is in highly improved grounds, and Tropic growths abound. I have had some talks with the gentlemen stopping here ; but none worthy specially of record. One of them is an Officer in India, now on his return from a visit to England. With the usual British confidence, he spoke of the loyalty of the Indians, and was sure England had nothing to fear from them in case of a War with Russia. I told him I did not like to hear such views expressed by English Soldiers ; it showed how little they knew, or cared to know, of the real state of affairs, and how they were counting without their host. Lord Ripon’s Administration of affairs in India a few years ago, showed how fal- lacious such confidence is ; and how India longs for a Messiah to deliver them from England’s Rule — beneficent and benignant though it be. He said the Educated Indians, of whom there are many now, are their friends, upon whom they can rely in time of trial. I told them, of all the enemies England had upon the- earth, the Educated Indian was the bitterest. Entering English Schools and Colleges, he CUREPIPE. 359 beat the English boys in the race for honors, and yet was a Social Pariah. This, with such an Aristocratic Pace, was gall and worm- wood ; and they only wait a day of vengeance on their conquerors. To this he could make no answer, and none can be made. In the afternoon we took a walk to the Public Gardens, viewing on our way the numerous beautiful Villas which throng the Country around the town ; the Garden itself is very pretty — of course, not to be compared with Pamplemousses, which deserves to rank with those of Buitenzorg, Kandy, and Calcutta. On our return, we strolled through the thickly-settled and business portion of the place, and saw how the Indians constituted the bulk of the inhabitants, as already observed; how a good many Negroes, too, are here, dressed out to-day in their best bib and tucker ; how John Chinaman is about, also, especially in Shops, and gathering loose change, — looking and being, in his child-like blandness, the sti’angest individuality of them all. Interested thus in looking at the Paces, and seeing how God shuts them up in their respective caskets, beyond the power of Education to radically modify in Historic periods, and hermetically sealed to fulfil their fates, the hours sped, and by the time we reached our Hotel, night had fallen. Same Place and Hotel, Monday, May 26, 1890. This, too, has been a busy and interesting day, travelling about Mauritius. We had our Breakfast early, and by half-past eight were at the Pailway Station, bound for Maheburg. This is a continuation of the Line across the Island from Port Louis. Maheburg is twenty miles Southeast from Curepipe ; Curepipe is sixteen still Southeast from Port Louis, and, therefore, is not far from the centre of Mau- ritius. Our Landlady fixed us up a Tiffin Basket, for we would have diffi- culty in getting meals at any of tlie points where we proposed to stop. The Country all the way to Maheburg is beautiful, cultivated on every hand in Sugar Cane, now at various stages of its growtli, and descending Seaward, the prospect was very fine, with the cultivated fields upon the North sweeeping to the Bamboo Pange of Mountains, dotted with Villas, Sugar Mills, and the humble peaked-roofed straw huts of the Indian laborers, and the laborers themselves, with their naked limbs or bright-colored, though scant, costumes, scattered over 360 LETTER NO. 16 . tlie Landscape ; on the South and East the same character of scene, but bound by the Ocean, sweeping in deep blue far away into the mist. When we came to Mahebiirg, the terminus of the run, we walked out from the Station upon the Shore, whence we could see the inward reach of Grand Port, a handspme Inlet, but shallowing by the silt and the work of the industrious little Coral Insect. Mauritius, like many other Tropic Islands, though they may be of Volcanic build, is girdled by Coral Reefs, which forbid approach to their Shores. Port Louis and Grand Port, on opposite sides, are the only Harbors Mauritius can boast, and they, for the reason I have given, not first rate. Grand Port, however, has some Islands scattered about it which, together with fishing boats abroad upon its surface and the people with line and tackle on the Shore, added much to its attractiveness. We then visited the town, a short distance removed from the Shore, and enjoyed walking through its streets, more like avenues through Tropic vegetation ; the houses, mainly humble, like their occupants, situated in capacious yards and spread over magnificent distances. We came across the Church, a quite large Stone affair', and the Mar- ket Place, Avhere numbers were convened — the Buyers and Sellers — nearly all Hindoos. I was somewhat surprised at this, thinking John Chinaman would do that business here as generally elsewhere. But no ! John finds here feebler Races, as he finds the Malay in Java, and strikes for higher game ; and, disdaining to be a Cooley or have a Garden Patch and hawk Vegetables, is John Chinaman, Gentleman, the Merchant and Financier. Whilst they cling to their costume and Pigtail, I have not seen in Mauritius a single Chinese Laborer or Trucker; many a time have I observed John walking, with his umbrella, whilst the Indian Cooley bears his burdens for him. I have come across another admirable Country in Avhich to study the peculiarities of Race. I have seen some, not very many, Negroes ; they do not appear to be Cooleys, nor Hucksters, nor Merchants, nor Truckers, but rather engaged in some rough trade; and in physique are the healthiest, apparently, and strongest of them all. By the time we had prospected Maheburg, the Train was ready to return. We came back to Rosebelle, a junction, and there took Train on a branch Road Southwest to Souillac, eleven miles. This, too, is seated upon the Shore, but has no Harbor. The whole Ride was through Sugar Cane, descending to Rosebelle and descending thence SQUILL AC. 361 to Souillac, was ever bounded on the South and West by the distant Ocean — a charming scene of land and water. When we arrived at Souillac we took our basket, and leaving the Station, were walking to the Shore to there enjoy our lunch, when we Avere politely saluted by the Station Master and directed how we Avould reach the best place for our jiicnic. Soon we were overtaken by a gentleman, who said he would with pleasure conduct us, and introduced himself as the Government Superintendent of Forests on the Island. When we reached the spot, a splendid scene opened upon us. We were on the skirts of a Grove, which on high ground extended by steep incline to the water’s edge, thick -set and streAvn with Volcanic rocks, fixed and loose, over which the water lapped lazily ; beyond, a half a mile or more, a Coral Reef SAv^ept round the Coast, oA^er which the waAms rolled in crests, white like snow. Strange to say, the water beyond was of deepest blue, and of mirror smoothness. When stirred by the winds, our forest friend says, they vault like Racers over the Reefs, with magnificence indescribable. He was so kind and polite, we invited him to lunch with us, which he accepted, and we made our board on the thick grass under the shade of the trees, and in sight and hearing of the jubilant, many- tongued Ocean, and discoursed about Mauritius and her interests and destiny. He was born here, his father a Welshman and his mother a French woman. He says the Private Forests are pretty much all gone; those that survive are mainly Public, and are preserved, situated in the East and Southeast of the Island, in the districts of Flacq, Mahe- burg, and SaA^anne, where we then Avere. But none of them now of much import ; though already about forty thousand Eucalyptus trees have been planted and the Forest are carefully looked after and ex- tended. We spent nearly tAvo hours thus pleasantly, by Avhich time the Train was ready to return. Our ride was delightful, like the one of the morning, though simply the scene reversed. I observed that some of the Planters had Steam Trams to bring in the Cane from the fields to the Mill ; others used oxen of the Indian Bullock species, with their shoulder hump. The homes of the Planters were some of them singularly pretty, set in their rich and many-colored Tropic plants and floAvers. The huts of the Laborers w’ere almost invariably of straAv, and one style, .square or rectangular frame, about five feet in 362 LETTER NO. 16 . height, suiTouuded by a steep conical roof, the whole of straw or long gi’ass, well woven and matted. Poet Louis, Maueitius, Oeiental Hotel, Tuesday, May 27, 1890. We left Curepipe on the half-past eight morning Train for this City. Having seen whatever of interest the region of Curepipe and beyond contained, we determined to run back to Port Louis and thence ai’ound the North of the Island by Rail, which would have given us a view of pretty much its whole extent •, for, from the high ground, we could, in our progress, see nearly the whole area on either hand around the entire Coast Line. Mauritius is about the size of Bourbon — maybe not quite so large — say thirty miles East and West by forty North and South. The Train was full — four or five cars — the business men of the City have their homes on the high grounds, or board, and go and come daily. I have already told you of my ride up; I will not repeat the return. When we arrived in Port Louis, we found we could not make the excursion we proposed, the Time Table had been changed from the one we saw in Curepipe, and upon which we had based our plans. Our Landlady’s nephew came with us and brought us to this Hotel, a branch of the one in Curepipe, a plain affair, but will answer for onr short stay. My Room, however, opens upon the Harbor, now quite full of Shij)s of sail and steam, and the Esplanade surrounding it, fronting which are the Post Office and Custom House and other Public Buildings, and when I lift my eyes from the paper whilst I write, a motley crowd of many colors and nationalities greet them — all the while a pleasant breeze coming in from the water and temper- ing the Sun, which will not, under his direct rays, let these lands forget his Sovereignty, though far away now on his tour beyond the Line. Getting our Rooms and Luggage secured, Mr. Nead and I walked to the Steamer Office to inquire about our State Rooms and the hour of her departure. Mr. Erayser was cordial and polite as usual, and introduced us to the Captain of the Dunrobin Castle. The Captain invited us to visit the Steamer, and he would show us our Rooms ; which we agreed to do. The freight is not yet all aboard, and the PORT LOUIS. 363 Agent said he would let us know during the day, whether or not she could start to-morrow. It was mid-day, and too hot in the sun to walk the streets, and we returned to the Hotel. In the afternoon, we took a Row Boat at the Landing, in front of the Hotel, with two Oarsmen, and went to the Steamer, anchored from half to a mile out, and were received courteously by the Cap- tain and Steward, and showed our quarters. Unhappily, the Vessel will be full, and I will not be able to have a Cabin to myself ; nor can Mr. and Mrs. Nead have a choice one. But I feel quite sure the Captain will do for us the best he can. On our return, we received a note from Mr. Frayser, the Agent, informing us that the Steamer would not leave for a day longer — Thursday, at four o’clock p. m. We can to-morrow, therefore, make our proposed Excursion on the Rail, and probably we will. On our walk to-day we visited the Museum, not far from the Steamer’s Office. It is quite an imposing white plastered building : but its contents are very poor, consisting mainly of preserved and stuffed animals and birds, either badly prepared or carelessly pre- served — maybe with the latter the climate has much to do — a rather sorry crowd anyway, though numerous enough. Same Place and Hotel, Wednesday, May 28, 1890. Eight or nine hours sleep last night made me feel comfortable this morning, and ready for a day’s work. We fulfilled our purpose, to make the tour of the North and Northeast part of the Island by Rail. We Breakfasted, and at half-past ten took train for a small place called Flacq, twenty-two miles distant. The Road passes through the Pamplemousses District, not far from the Gardens, and mainly in view of the Sea, and upon the low ground which we noticed when coming into Port on our arrival. I observe, that before reaching the terminus of our run, at a jilace called Mapou, the elevation is two hundred and ninety-six feet ; we then descend to Flacq seventy-eight. The scene was much like that spoken of in other parts of the Island, cultivated extensively and minutely, chiefly in Sugar — the humble habitations of the Laborers and the Sugar Mills abounding — the Landscape sweeping to the Mountains, with 364 LETTER NO. 16 . Avhich we are now familiar — Ponce and Peter Botte showing grandly, with different fronts from those already seen. On reaching the Flacq Station, we hired two Carrioles, thus called here, square bodies, covered, with shafts, very confined, but not un- comfortable affairs, Avith stout, fine, active ponies, and well kept. Mrs. Nead and I took one, and Mr, Nead the other. There being nothing at the Station to see, we drove over a fine road to the Sea- shore, a mile distant, and there spent our time — an hour or two — as we did at Souillac, in enjoying the Ocean and its breezes. For the purpose, the site is not equal to that ; the Coral Beefs being more distant, yet most enjoyable, for they stretched their white line of foam along the entire front, with here and there an opening, through which small crafts alone can safely sail, and which in the distance, it was beautiful to see, their white wings and the surf about them contrasting finely with the deep blue water. Eeturning, we observed a Public School of boys and girls, and went in to see. It happened to be the hour of recess, and in the School Room Ave met the teachers, a good-looking young man and Avoman, neatly dressed, and both of Indian descent. They received us Avith great courtesy, speaking English, and a number of the boys and girls gathered around, while we were talking. There was a large Map of the World upon the Avail. I took the pointing stick and showed them Avhere I lived, and how I had travelled to reach their Island home, and the various Countries I had visited, and hoAV by keeping straight on around Africa to England, I would thence again reach the City whence I started. It was admirable to see the little black-haired, bright-eyed things, all cleanly clad and Avell- behaved, folloAV me Avith intensest interest. My first effort at child school teaching seemed to be a success ; and, doubtless, they will find a topic of talk for many a day about the strange gentleman who was at the School and told them how he was travelling around the World, and showed them on the Map. AFe met in our compartment an English gentleman, Avho is a Justice of the Peace and Colonial Secretary of the Island, an intelli- gent, affable man, who gave us much information about the Country and people. The planters cultivate carefully, using maniu’e and artificial fertilizers, quantities of which Ave observed upon the Shore, landed from the small vessels of Avhich I have spoken, and hauling it out with carts and wagons draAvn by bullocks and mules. Again ISLAND OF MAURITIUS. 365 were we impressed with the density of the population — reaching five hundred and eight per square mile, — more than that of England or even Belgium. Our informant said, that altogether the best laborers are the Indians ; the Negroes loving rest more than work, and unre- liable — though in physique, they are manifestly the best men here. John Chinaman works with head more than hand : the former devis- ing modes to get the use of the latter, rather of others than his own. The Island is very unhealthy, resulting, in great measure, from the want of drainage and the want of sanitary precautions, and every now and then fevers, which to some extent ever abound, break out in epidemic form and sweep oft' thousands. Even now, in their Winter time, there is much fever in the City, and I will be ready to go with the Steamer : not tired of the Island, only afraid of its scourge. Thus Nature seems to work, with compensation. This lovely garden of the Tropics has its bane. For wherever I go, the Landscape charms with its fertile plains and picturesque Mountain peaks, of beauty and outline beyond the Painter’s brush — rimmed by the Coral-crested waters, rivalling in enchantment what Homer tells us of Achilles’ shield, all girdled by the Sea. Towards Sundown we wandered about the Streets, and visited the Markets, and were struck by the quantity and variety of the products oftered for sale ; especially of the Fish, some of them more curious in their appearance than appetizing. I make a rough draft of the Island and of the Lines by Rail, that you may understand the better my story : wAHceura 366 LETTER NO. 16 . Same Place and Hotel, Steamship Duneobin Castle, Donald Cueeie Line, Thursday, May 29, 1890. In the early morning, I was out on the Verandah of the Hotel, in front of my Room, enjoying the crowds of variegated people on the Streets and Landings and the breezes from the Sea. These breezes, of which I have several times spoken, though so delicious, are called the Madagascar winds, and regarded unhealthy for the town — not that the winds themselves are noxious, but striking the Mountains which encircle the City, come down often in sultry rains, bringing the impure exhalations with them, and generating fevers of malignant type. It is unfortunate that such fates should wait upon the lovely Island, and with its mixed population, things are growing rather worse than better. The mortality of the City proper averages eighty-eight per thousand, and at points near by, two hundred and seventeen — a fearful death rate — making Graveyards numerous and crowding their occupants. I amused myself after Breakfast in walking about the Streets and Public Grounds, keeping in the shade of the houses and trees, or under my umbrella, to avoid the Sun’s torrid rays. These Public Grounds reach from the Harbor front, well set in fine Tropic trees, back to the Government House, an imposing structure; several Bronze Statues adorn it, by D’Epiuay, a Native Artist ; one, of his own Father, an eminent Lawyer and benefactor of the Island, in the act of arguing a cause — an excellent work of Art. Whilst out, I bought a Spoon for your Set, and had it marked in memory of my visit. At one o’clock, we gathered some Cooleys, and had our baggage transferred to boats, and soon wei’e safely transferred to the Steamer Dunrobin Castle and quartered in our Rooms. We arrived in time for Lunch. My State Room is one of the largest in the Steamer, on the upper Deck, with berths for four. Happily, I have only one Room-mate, young Dr. Hamilton, a Siu’geon in the British Army, who has been stationed for six or seven years in Mauritius, now on his way to England, in charge of some invalid soldiers, he himself suffering from the effects of fever, and going home in search of health, appar- ently a nice young man. We are in hope that we will be able to hold it to Natal, the terminus of our travel on this Steamer : but with an apprehension, that the number of new passengers who will board us in Madagascar will crowd our little domicil. ISLAND OF MA URITIUS—ST0R3IS. 367 In the afternoon, whilst my fellow-travellers were coming aboard, and the Steamer getting ready for her departure, I sat on Deck under the awning, and enjoyed the delightful breezes and the scene. The Harbor was filled with Ships of sail and steam, and Steam Tugs and Launches and row boats scudding to and fro ; and beyond, lay the City along the Shore, hid away in foliage, whilst the high Mountains rimmed it round, catching the pure airs Avhich we were enjoying, and at times, as I have said, pouring them like pestilential breaths upon the people of the crowded City. One could hardly realize that sixty thousand peoj^le were there hid away, and that nearly four hundred thousand lived upon the little Island. Jlor could one readily realize that this placid scene could be disturbed by fiercest elements of Pestilence and Storm. I have told you of the epidemics and their ravages; sometimes Hurricanes come along, and one on the Fourth of March, 1868, sent the Vessels in wreck upon the Shore, and made fifty thousand people homeless. We remember from our childhood days, how Bernardine de Saint-Pierre, having won our admiration and enthusiasm for the lovely children of his Genius, and their equally lovely home, swept one away with the fierce Hurricane, and blasted the other with its effects. [Just two years after I was there. May 1892, the Island of Mau- ritius was overwhelmed by one of the most memorable of these storms. To give some idea of its violence and the ruin it inflicted, I here insert a couple of slips from the Papers of the Day, giving a graphic account of its doings : “A TERRIBLE STORM. Twelve Hundked Lives Lost on the Mauritius Island. THE WIND BLEW 120 MILES AN HOUR. A Hurricane Causes Enormous Damage to Proimiy and Shipping — Vessels Bloion Dry on Shore — Human Beings Dashed to Death Against Trees and Walls. London, May 20. — Advices from Mauritius are to the effect that the devastation caused by the recent Hurricane was simply enormous. 368 LETTER NO. 16 . Business at Port Louis, the Capital, and at the other towns on the Island has been and is still greatly interrupted. Some time before the gale burst, the barometer gave warning of a great atmospheric disturbance. The merciuy fell in one hour to 27.95, and in a short time the Sky took on a dull reddish tinge, and every indication pointed to the coming of the storm. The air was motion- less, and the heat was oppressive, almost stifling. Swiftly coursing landward there came a solid mass of water, looking like a wall of green. As its top was a mass of froth, which, lighter than the water, was lifted by the gale that was following close behind and blown far in advance of the onrushing Sea. Quicker than the story can be written, the forerunners of the gale reached the Island. First, a little puff of wind waved the foliage of the trees. This was quickly followed by another and another, and then the storm burst. Amid the roar of the gale could be heard the crashing of thunder, that was appalling in its violence. The whole black canopy would give way to a flash of lightning that would light the Sea, Sky, and Earth with brightness that almost caused blindness. The people were panic- stricken, and sought safety iu their houses, many of them only to find death shortly afterward iu the falling buildings. VELOCITY OF THE WIND, 120 MILES AN HOUR. The wind gauges were blown to atoms, but those best calulated to judge, state that the wind blew at the rate of 120 miles an hour. No one but those who have seen such storms can form any idea of the terrible energy of such a wind. It was utterly impossible for a human being to stand against it. Many of those who lost their lives were killed by being lifted bodily from their feet and dashed against trees, walls, and houses. TWELVE HUNDRED PERSONS KILLED. The latest official estimates are, that 1,200 were killed. It is thought that many of those injured will die. Most of the lighters and tugs in the Harbor were blown high and dry on the Shore, and the scarcity of these vessels is a great draw- back to business. The stranding of the lighters and tugs also caused a great delay in floating the stranded sea-going vessels, it being im- possible to lighten them. ISLAND OF MAURITIUS— STORMS. 369 DAMAGE TO SHIPPING. The British Ship Queen of Scots, whose stranding was reported yesterday, lost her bulwarks and part of her rigging. The British Steamer Oaklands, from Bari'y, which was also reported aground, has been floated. Her rigging and bulwarks are damaged. Several of the plates on her port side are bent in, but she is water-tight. A survey has been held, and she will go in dock for a further exam- ination. The Austrian bark Nemirna, from Colombo, had her sails blown away. Her cargo Avas shifted, and after spare sails were rigged to the yards, she bore away for Mauritius to repair. The Beacon-Light Ship was dismasted, and the light was lost. The Government Tug Stella Clairs is ashore, but she will prob- ably float. The British barks Aconcagua and Genevieve M. Tucker, the former from New York and the latter from Newcastle, N. S. W., are ashore, hard and fast. There is but a faint }>rospect of floating either of them. They are lying in four feet of water. They are partly laden ; neither is making any water. The British bark Strathspey, from Port Natal, will probably be gotten afloat. The Swedish bark St. Vincent, from Rangoon for the English Channel, has arrived at Mauritius in a leaky condition. She will make repairs afloat. The Austrian bark Teresa Cosulich is stranded, but will float. Her hull is damaged, and several of her plates ax’e bent. She was in collision with the wharf and the dry dock. The British Steamer Umballa, from Bombay and Zanzibar, which was also blown ashore, partly discharged her cargo and got afloat. Her cargo has been restowed. Her upper works were damaged. The British Ship Vellore, from Balasore and Colombo, and the Normandy went ashore, but were floated in a slightly damaged con- dition. The British bark Oaklands, from Buenos Ayres, had her port quarter stove in a collision. The British Ship Queen of Scots had 1,200 tons of inward cargo aboard when she was carried on the reef She is now discharging as rapidly as possible. She lies in seven feet of water. 24 370 LETTER NO. 16 . The British brig Rio Logo, from Fremantle, had her bulwarks, stanchions, and stern damaged. The British Ship Sierra Parima, from Penarth, has her bulwarks damaged. She is tight and will probably float. The British bark William Wilson has been floated. Her ballast tank is leaky and her spars are damaged. The British Steamer Amaranth is still ashore, but she will prob- ably float. Among the Steamers in Port Louis Harbor was the Albion, a British vessel from Bombay. She had steam up when the hurricane burst, and attempted to ride to her anchors with the assistance of her engines. The gale blew with such frightful violence that even with the aid of steam the situation became extremely dangerous from the pitching of the Steamer that threatened at every moment to break her chains. The cables were, therefore, buoyed and slipped, and the Steamer was headed for the open Sea. As she started on her perilous voyage she made dangerous leeway, but finally she cleared the reefs and rode in open water. She disappeared in the storm, and no more was seen of her until she returned after the gale had subsided. She had had a terrible experience, but she had ridden out the storm with no further damage than the loss of her mainmast. The French bark Alsace and Lorraine, from Calcutta, is a total wreck. She was bound for Demerara. The British Steamer Gladiator will probably float. Several of her plates are bent and her frame is broken.” “Mauritius Island Storm-swept. A Cablegram from London last night says : Advices received here from Mauritius state that a Hurricane unprecedented in its violence passed over that Island on April 29, causing enormous damage to shipping. A majority of the vessels at the Island were blown ashore. The Western half of Port Louis, the Capital, was devastated. The loss of life was appalling. A large number of persons were caught in the falling houses and crushed to death, while others lost their lives by being struck by falling debris. Never before in the history of the Island has such a warring of the elements been known. ISLAND OF MA URITIUS— STORMS. 371 The exact number of the dead is not known. Every effort is being made by the authorities to alleviate the suffering. The Governor has issued orders for military tents to be distributed to shelter the homeless, and food is being issued to those who have lost everything by the storm. Half of the crops of Sugar, Rice, Coffee, and Pepper have been utterly ruined, and the loss in this direction is extremely heavy. Mauritius, or, as it is sometimes called, Isle of France, has always been noted for its violent and destructive hurricanes, but this one exceeds in destructiveness any hitherto known. Taking warning from previous gales, everything possible was done to minimize the threatened damage, but when at last the gale burst, all the precautions proved of no avail. The shipping in the Harbor sent down their topmasts, extra anchors were let go, cables were paid out, and everything was made snug below and aloft. Had it been an ordinary hurricane the vessels might have successfully ridden out the storm. But so fierce Avas the storm that cables parted like pack- thread, and the vessels Avere dashed upon the coral reefs, that are so dangerous to navigation about the Island. Among the vessels that Avere stranded were the folloAving : the British Steamer Poutakotu, the Umballa, the bark William Wilson, Steamer Oaklands, the Schooner Paula, and the bark Princess Wil- helmina. All these vessels Avere slightly damaged. The vessels still aground are the bark Strathspey, the Ship Leander, the Ship Aconcagua, the Ship Queen of Scots, the Ship Eurydice, the Steamer Amaranth, and the Steamer Gladiator. Mauritius is an Island of the Indian Ocean, lying to the East of Madagascar. It is oval in shape, being 39 miles in length and 34 miles in its greatest breadth. It is surrounded by coral reefs, and in the interior is composed chiefly of rugged and irregular Mountains, the highest point being 3,000 feet above the Sea. The climate is unhealthy, and the Island is subject to violent, fre- quent, and destructiA^e hurricanes. It has belonged in turn to the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French, and the English, having been in the possession of the latter since 1810. French is the language chiefly spoken. The total population, according to the census of 1881, Avas 361,000, and in 1890 it had increased to 373,000. Two-thirds of the people belong to what is known as the Indian population, the other third including large 372 LETTER NO. 16. numbers of Africans and half-breeds. Port Louis, the Capital, had a population of 61,000 in 1889.”] Mauritius presents the curious condition of an English possession for eighty years, yet without any of the force and genius which accom- panies the Anglo-Saxon, whithersoever he goes. English is but little spoken — and English influence but little felt. French is the Type and the Tongue of the upper classes, and they seem resolved that neither shall pass away. Five-sixths, probably, of the population are people from India — yet coming from Hindoostan, where, doubt- less, they spoke Pidgeon English, they forthwith take on Pidgeon French, which universally prevails. Would it not have been better for the Islands, that Anglo-Saxonism should have dominated from the beginning? With all their genius in many directions, the French have never succeeded as Colonizers. The Anglo-Saxons, of all peoples, know that r6le best. Among the Inhabitants, there is absolute free- dom in Religion. Of the Christian Faith, the Roman Catholics are in the ascendant ; the Indians are divided into Mahomedans and Hindoos — of whom the Hindoos are far the more numerous. Now, let us bid farewell to Mauritius. The hour set for our departure was four o’clock p. m. We did not get off till after five. I sat on Deck and enjoyed the going out, bound for Tamatave in Madagascar, distant Northwest over the Indian Ocean, four hundred and seventy-five miles. I don’t think I have mentioned that Mauritius was discovered by the Dutch in 1598 and named after Prince Maurice; was taken by the French, and captured by the English in 1810, in whose possession it has since remained. On Same Steamship, Indian Ocean, Friday, May 30, 1890. My Room-mate, Dr. Hamilton, is badly used up with fever. His legs are oederaatous, and he walks with difficulty. I was up and out early on Deck, where the atmosphere was delightful. He could not get out thus early, and when I went back towards mid-day found him still lying down. I induced him to come on Deck, and gave him ray Chair to sit in, telling him it was at his service during the Voyage — he not having one. STEAMSHIP DUNBOBIN CASTLE— INDIAN OCEAN. 373 Our Ship, the Dunrobin Castle, is not what now-a-days would be called First Class. She is two thousand eight hundred tons, and old, having none of the modern improvements — Electric Lights, Ice Factory, or Water Distiller or Purifier. But, notwithstanding, I get along comfortably enough ; things go well in my big Cabin, with my single Room-mate. But I fear we will have to take on more in Madagascar, and be incommoded. The Captain, whose name is Winder, tells me he expects a number of Missionaries and their children will there board us, and we may be crowded ; the Captain is from Cork, Ireland, and his name is pronounced with the i short, as in Wind — not long as with our Winders. Among the passengers on board, is a Major W. and his wife and a grown daughter, a Paymaster in the English Army, going from India, where he has been stationed, to Natal, whither he has been ordered, and a Lady whose name I have not learned, wife of another English Officer, ordered from Mauritius to Natal, whom she is pre- ceding to his post, and who, together with Mr. and Mrs. Nead and myself and a few others, sit at the Captain’s Table. No conversations have taken place worthy of record, or throwing any light upon my travels : indeed, I have been more struck with the feebleness and want of knowledge of some of my fellow-travellers and comrades than with anything else; when an Officer of sixty years of age asked me, with confidence, if the recent manifestations he has read of in China with regard to internal improvement would not lead very soon to the connection of that Empire and the United States by Rail ! I simply and quietly responded, that the only trouble it seemed to me was the intervention of the Pacific Ocean, save by the Aleutian Islands. It is amazing how ignorant and stupid an Eng- lishman can sometimes be ; for he can be equally well-informed and bright. This can hardly occur with the American of equal advan- tages ; he is of more cosmopolitan build, and quickness of appre- hension. On Same Ship and Ocean, And at Tamatave, Island of Madagascar, Saturday, May 31, 1890. Early this morning we sighted the Island of Madagascar, stretch- ing for many miles along our Western Horizon. About mid-day, passing Prune Island, a small circular tract of land, thick-set with 374 LETTER NO. 16. trees and a large elliptical Coral Reef, we came to anchor some distance out in the Roadstead of Tamatave — pronounced with the e silent. Prune Island is several miles from the Shore, and the timber from it is sometimes used ; but the Island is used more, I am told, for the manufacture of Lime out of the Coral formations which abound. The elliptical Coral formation of which I have spoken, is an Atoll, the first I have ever seen in my Tropic travels — an interesting phenomenon. The industrious creatures lay a floor, building it only a few feet below the water : for they cannot stand its pressure at great depths, nor can they endure exposure to the air. They love the joint warmth of Tropic suns and seas. In eycles of years, they and their progeny work industriously, and spread the bounds of their habitation wider and wider, until they inclose many acres. Within the circle, the water is calm and serene ; around its rim the Ocean waves ceaselessly toss themselves, breaking in snow-white crests. It is very beautiful. When we had cast Anchor, I observed another Atoll close to the land — a large, well-formed one, too, the Shore itself making part of its circumference. The Second Officer told me he had visited both, and waded aeross the inner water, only a few feet deep, with, how- ever, deeper pools. I had hitherto supposed the Atoll often enclosed a deep Lagune. The diminutive architects building only the enclosure in their life-time work. The Town stretches along the Shore for, probably, a mile, most of it hid in foliage; the Cocoanut telling us, by its numerous specimens, of the Tropic locality. Near the Northern end there floated from a lofty staff the Stars and Stripes of the Consnl of the United States. We could see quite well the contour of the Country beyond. The low ground on which the town is located, reaches back, I am told, twelve or fifteen miles before it begins to ascend into Mountains, conspicuous from the Sea. These Mountains crown the interior, and attain, in some of their peaks, an elevation of eight or nine thousand feet. They are of Voleanic origin, and hundreds of extinct craters tell us how, in ages gone, they built the Island. Among them, on a plateau, five thousand feet above the Sea, and about two hundred miles from Tamatave, is Tananarive or Autannanarivo, the Capital, where is the Palace of the Queen, the Ruler of the Native tribes. We determined to go ashore, but not till later in the afteimoon ; for, while pleasant, eool breezes played about the Ship, the heat of the Sun was too intense to trust. At four o’clock I inquired for a TAM AT A VE—MADAOASCAE. 375 boat ; a gentleman hearing me, tendered his own, and said he would gladly take us to Tamatave when he returned. I did not thus like to ring in ; but finding no excuse, went ashore, and paid what would have been our fare to his private oarsmen. We found he was a native of the Island, though of English parentage, and Agent of this Line. These oarsmen were full-bred Negroes. I observed that the oars- men of all the boats, and the operatives on the Launches that came to the Vessel, bringing and taking freight, were of the same Race — and uncommonly fine muscular fellows they were, full of strength and apparent health. They are black, woolly-headed, and well formed, a coarse flax or cotton shirt, not unlike a bag, their only garment, and I could see how their admirably developed torso was set on legs that supported it like columns. Their faces were animal and coarse, but through its rugged lines appeared that amiable, light-hearted temper, which distinguishes their brethren with us. We walked from one end of Tamatave to the other, along the chief Street — the only one, indeed, of any import it may be said to have ; the Negroes constituted five-sixths of the people we saw : employed in carrying weights upon their head or shoulders, sometimes in single bulk or suspended on the ends of Bamboo rods, or four of them in sets, engaged in conveying persons about the City or on long jour- neys — the principal mode of travel. These are not, however, the Aborigines or Autochthones of Madagascar ; they have been brought hither from Africa as slaves, or came as freemen, and certainly have taken possession of the Labor at least of Tamatave ; the Aborigines are of the Malay type, which, by reason of their proximity to Africa, has given rise to speculation with regard to their origin, thus far from the home of their Ancestors. Ingenious Scientists have surmised, that there was once a Continent in the Indian Ocean, whose borders reached far Eastward. Some great convulsion sank it in the waters, leaving only the fragment of Madagascar to represent it ; or it broke up into Islands — some East, and this one West — the homes of the great Malay Race. They insist they are confirmed in this view by the animals which inhabit it — different from those which belong to the Continent of Africa — especially the Lemur ; and, consequently, call the lost Continent Lemuria. There is not more probability, nor less, than for Atlantis, the dream both of ancient and modern times. 376 LETTER NO. 16 . The main thoroughfare of Tamatave is neither graded nor paved in mid-street or sidewalk — only a stretch of deep sand, through which the pedestrian must wade or be born on the shoulders of four men in chairs, called Filanjanas — -j pronounced like z — simply a light frame of iron or wood, in outline of a chair, set on two Bamboo or other rods. We preferred to trudge through the sand, that we might the better see. We passed a Catholic Church, a large and respectable affair, but it was not the hour of Service. Then we visited the so- called Shops and Bazars of the Natives — humble things — only inter- esting to us from the manufactured commodities of the Malagasses exposed for sale. I bought two mantles, or wraps, woven of grass, or the filaments of the Palm Leaf, called Lambas, and a couple of Horn spoons, and some bits cut from a French Napoleon, used for coin of circulation. There are some excellent houses of the whites along this Street, among the humble homes of the Natives. Among them, the English Consulate and a gentleman from Boston, the only American here, engaged in business. There is, also, an American Consul, Mr. Camp- bell ; we had not time to call, but Tamatave must be a sorry place to live iu. The Native Shops have, like those of the Orient, the whole front exposed upon the Street, and many squat in the sand on the Street and spread out their commodities on a cloth. From one of the shops I bought the spoons and mantle ; from one of the curb- stone Brokers — if they had curb-stones — I bought two pieces of chipped silver, one of which I gave to Mrs. Nead for her chain, the other I will put upon my own. Towards sunset we came back to the Ship, and ended our investi- gation of Tamatave, at least for the day. It is supposed to have a population of six or seven thousand. On Same Steamee, and at Tamatave, Sunday, June 1, 1890. Before Breakfast, two gentlemen, Mr. Goulden and Mr. Rogers, going ashore, invited me to join them. Having nothing else to do, I went ; I wanted to see more of the people, which I would have an opportunity of doing at the Catholic Church, that was open at eight o’clock for Services. TAM AT A VE. 377 The Shore and the Streets were full of the same Negro labor-popu- lation which attracted my notice yesterday. Though Sunday, they were clad, or rather unclad, like yesterday — a coarse shii't or bag their only garment — wandering lazily about the Streets or sitting in the sand, chatting merrily, and seeming to enjoy life more than those who fill a higher sphere. But none the less did I admire their fine physique, the embodiment of health and strength. We walked about till eight o’clock, the hour of Church, and then went to see them gather to the Services, by the ringing of the bell. The Church is a large and good one for such a place, and the crowd of men, women, and children in their best attire was great. They were not Negroes, such as those of whom I have S23oken, but the descendants of the Aborigines of the Island — of the Malay type — or mixed, dressed in Euro 2 )ean style, but with the flashy coloring and trimming of the undeveloped, aspiring to higher things. Several Church Schools were there, of little boys and girls, well appointed and behaved, who united most creditably in the Music. I thought, though there were crosses of both the white and black, the Malay Type was well defined. The Negroes, of whom I have hitherto spoken, are simply the laboring element; these are the better classes — the Malagasses or Malagashes. We are told there are on the Island three distinct Tribes, viz. : the Betsimasavakas, the Sakalavas, and the Hovas ; the first dwell mainly on the East, the Sakalavas on the West Coast; the Hovas are the Ruling Tribe, to which the 2 >resent Queen belongs, whose homes are in the centre of the Island, about the Cajjital, Tananarive; from what I can learn, ruling by tacit consent, as the Incas once ruled the Peruvian Aborigines. The same curious incident occurred here that hajipened, you remember, in the Hawaiian Islands : there, by Proclamation, Kame- hameha II. abolished Tabu, the Kanaka Faith ; here, in Sejjtember, 1869, the last Queen, by her order, committed the Idols of the whole Nation to the flames ; thus leaving all things open for the advent of the Missionaries. There had been some for many years before ; but, noAV, they came in greater volume, mainly under the ausj3ices of the London Missionary Society, beside the Catholic, and have been work- ing diligently. Twenty-five or thirty of them, men, women, and children, came on board to-day, bound for England — some on a visit, some leaving finally. They have resided in and about the Capital, and though this is five thousand feet above the Sea, and the Country 378 LETTER NO. 16. is an extensive Plateau, yet, they tell me, it is filled with pools and marshes, and with such wretched sanitary precautions, that nearly every one of these newcomers is fever smitten. The population of the Capital is more than one hundred thousand. Madagascar is eight hundred and fifty miles long, with an average width of two hundred and fifty — its greatest, three hundred and fifteen miles. It cau hardly be called valuable in proportion to its size. The elevated Plateau, reaching from four to five thousand feet, is of tenacious clay, which, hardened by the Sun, is unfriendly to vegetation. The Coast is low, and subject to deadly fevers. Its population is not accurately ascertained, ranging in popular estimate anywhere from three to six millions. The French are making vigorous efforts to Colonize within its borders. I have told you of their doings in the Comoros ; they have already established Colonies on the East Coast of Madagascar, at the Island of Saint Marie, or Nossi Burra ; on the North West at Bah Bay, and farther North at Nossi Be — and, doubtless, would like to, and will, make further invasions. The people and the Government apprehend this, and are opposed to the construction of any internal Improvements, fearing they may perform the part of the Trojan Horse. The only mode of reaching the Capital now, is from Tama- tave, distant about two hundred miles, on foot or by chairs or Filan- janas, borne by men, a journey of from ten to fifteen days. At one o’clock p. m. we again lifted Anchor and steamed South- ward, coastwise, to Mananjara — the j pronounced like z — distant two hundred and three miles. On Same Steamer and Ocean, Monday and Tuesday, June 2 and 3, 1890. These two days have gone without special incident ; steaming calmly along the Eastern front and rounding the great Island, which, as I have said, is eight hundred and fifteen miles; these measure- ments the Captain gives me from his Charts. On Monday at mid-day we anchored several miles off a small place called Mananjara. We could see it from the Ship, seated on the low Shore, and among its Tropic growths, looking hot and malarious enough. Some more Missionaries came aboard, bound for Merry England. They were brought out in large boats with sails, beside STEAMSHIP DUNROBIN CASTLE— INDIAN OCEAN. 379 being manned by Negro oarsmen, like those I told you of at Tama- tave, and dressed in the same primitive costume. Again was I struck with their apparent vigor, and their ugly and gross, yet amiable faces ; though whilst looking at them from the Deck, one of the Mission- aries told me, they were, almost without exception, filled with dis- ease. Advancing Southward, the weather grew sensibly cooler : though since we left Mauritius there has been no great heat, and the natural breezes and those made by the Steamer in its motion have rendered the weather delightful on Deck under the awning. No Life, how- ever, of Sea or Air has enlivened our passage — no Fish, no Birds, save a single one, which we took for a young Albatross trying its wings ; though it could have hardly been in this hot region, so far from home. The Mountains improved in majesty and outline during the morn- ing of Tuesday, and drew near the Coast, throwing themselves into ranges and ridges, now receding, and now advancing shoi'eward with great and picturesque beauty. In the afternoon, they broke down utterly, and Madagascar lay a flat, uninteresting Landscape. We passed during the day Fort Dauphin, two hundred and forty miles from Manaujara — a small structure on the Southeast Coast, built by the French, and scarce visible from the Ship. About Mid- night we will pass Cape Saint Mary, the Southernmost Point of Madagascar, and then steam direct for Natal. All went to bed in the promised security of a calm night, with their Ports open, to enjoy the balmy atmos2)here. Whilst they slejit, the Shij) passed through a current, which, mounting under the im- pulse, dashed through the openings in floods that drenched the unhapjiy passengers in their Berths and filled the floors with water to the depth of several inches. Hapjjily, my Cabin is on the Hurricane Deck, and the waves did not dash so high. I have talked with many of the Missionaries, male and female, and gathered much information about Madagascar, and their work among its peoj)le. I have found them very j)leasant and seemingly most worthy agents of the Church ; doing the best they could. I gather from our conversations, that they do not regard their labors as, by any means, superabundantly rewarded. They have not estab- lished the ability of our Civilization to lift an undeveloped Race to our own level, within any appreciable number of years; nor the 380 LETTER NO. 16 . capacity of the Missionary to lift it to the arena of our lofty Religious Faith and keep it there. The vices of our Civilization they readily appropriate ; the virtues of our Religion they, alas ! only in the main profess. The vices are- agreeable to their physical organization, and cling with consequent tenacity ; the virtues, too heavy for their unde- veloped intellect, are weakened by the concealment of the vices they practice, or wiped out by the waves of superstitious tendencies which have been transmitted to them by generations of ancestral practices and beliefs. The honest Missionaries freely admit their work to be one of immense difficulty ; at times almost hopeless to the devoted laborer in his high and noble field. I heard among them no blowing and boastful declarations of their success ; only a modest admission of their difficulties, and hopes of their ultimate triumph — bread cast upon the water to be gathered after many days. I met on board Monsieur , the French Consul to Natal, en route to his post of duty. He is evidently a gentleman, and speaks English very well, having, he tells me, spent some time in New York City. We have had a great deal of conversation about his Country and its Institutions. He is a believer in the right and power of the people to rule, and has abundant faith in France and her Republic. He thinks Boulanger a wretched ass and tool of the Monarchists and enemies of Free Institutions of every Ilk; and only a figure-head of the inborn disturbers of the Peace, over all of whom France will ultimately and speedily triumph. He not only thinks the French people capable of Self-Government, but that its present forms will endure, and under them France not only maintain Free- dom and Liberty at home, but in her fast growing strength avenge her indignities and losses. Had Germany only insisted on indemnity, the War would have been forgotten : but France cannot forget Alsace and Lorraine; and the bloody battle has again to be fought, for which France is nearly ready. I asked him, what he thought of Napoleon III? for many outside of France thought him great, till the day when he was so suddenly snuffed out. He replied, that he was a mere creature of circumstances, without any substantial ability of his own. Whatever able things were done during his Rule, or in the modes of his exaltation to power, were the work of far abler men, who used Napoleon to accomplish their purposes. And now, that he and his work have gone into History, the Frenchman feels only shame, that such a hollow fraud could so long have flaunted himself in France. STEAMSHIP DUNBOBIN CASTLE— INDIAN OCEAN. 381 The World ought to remember, that the French people have had many difficulties to encounter in their march to Republican Institu- tions, and the ruins of many Images to remove, before they have cleared the site for the great Temple of Freedom they are building. Same Ship and Ocean, Wednesday, June 4, 1890. Crossing to-day the mouth of the Mozambique Channel, we met the current coming down from the Equatorial regions, between Mada- gascar and the Coast of Africa, and our Ship has had a lively time, tossing the Crockeryware around, and making things exceedingly brisk aboard. Our Missionaries are sick — sick of fever expressed or latent when they came — sick of Mai de Mer now ; doubtless the one will help the other; when all is over, and the journey home com- pleted, and they strike the balance, they may find themselves the gainers. Of course, I anticipated the rough time we are having, and thought these elements could not collide without disturbance. I will be sur- prised if we do not have it rough till we reach Natal. Not regarding weather and whatever its behavior, feeling well, the various currents of wind and water through which I pass are to me an unceasing source of study. I have now — certainly will, upon the completion of this long Tour — travelled with, or against, or athwart all the Ocean currents of the World, and am ever impressed with the wonder of that Divine Economy which, with them, binds the earth and its inhabitants in the bonds of neighborhood and health. Same Ship and Ocean, Thursday, June 5, 1890. Last night the Ship behaved more unsteadily than ever, tossing and tumbling ahead, and, notwithstanding the fight she was having with the waves, and the inconvenience to which her unsteady gait was putting those she carried, steaming with admirable progress and perseverance. I slept through all ; but many others told me they had no sleep, amid the efforts to save themselves in their Berths and the noise of breaking furniture and crockery. S82 LETTER NO. 16. All day this rolling of our Ship continued; now and then a sudden lurch would throw things into mess, and in the Saloon, would empty our cups, and tumblers, and plates into our laps ; on Deck, would throw people and chairs pell-mell, and produce confusion, sometimes mixed with thumps and bruises. I, to the extent of my ability, avoided the danger and have escaped ; the Captain and other Officers helping me to the extent of their ability. I go early to bed and always have a good night’s rest, forgetting the unsettled condition of the Sea, and the consequent unrest of those aboard. What a blessing to the voyageur to be on good terms with the Ocean ! then it is the same, whether he be in quiet or sportive mood ; whether he pulsates gently in mirror smoothness, reflecting the Ship and Clouds, or swelling into mighty billows, he dashes their crests against the Stars. Same Ship and Ocean, Friday, June 6, 1890. The Sea, during the night and to-day, has been carrying on the same, and the helpless traveller is getting tired of being hurled around, and is calling aloud for rest. To heighten the contrast and intensify the hurly-burly, the heavens are unclouded, and the Sun seems pleased that Neptune and Boreas are having a good time together, and gives them the benefit of his smiles, regardless, as the Gods of Old often were, of how poor mortals suffered in the Game. This Indian Ocean, anyway, is an interesting play ground for the elements. It is not open at either end like its confrffi’es ; but round its Northern confines, it is bound in by Tropic Continental Lands, which make it the area of fierce elemental conflicts. The Sun is the father of them all — Terrestrial Disturber of the Peace that he ever is. He makes, with the revolution of the Earth, the Equatorial winds and currents, which, as elsewhere, perform their appointed work in the Indian Ocean. Not satisfied with this perennial and beautiful proceeding, travelling North and South, he makes the Periodic Monsoon. These children cannot in their very nature live in peace. When he takes his annual tour, at this season of the year, beyond the Line, he carries disturbance with him, and creating the Southwest Monsoon forces it into collision with the Northeast Equa- torial current, and makes things quite lively in his Northern Court. STEAMSHIP DUNBOBIN CASTLE— INDIAN OCEAN. 383 In this Antipodal Region, as a remembrancer whilst away, he simply sends ns from the superabundance of his resources, emissaries from his Equatorial Battle-Fields, which, mingling with elements he left behind, cooled off by his delay, enter into the jolly sport now dis- turbing us — only jolly sport — nothing dangerous : for he will not in his absence trust them with greater power. But when his tour is done, and he returns, leaving Winter in the North, and bringing Summer here, he orders his cohorts with him, and clothing them with fury, sends them whirling, with Death and Ruin on their wings, making one think that Mythologic times have come again, and that Phaeton has climbed into the Chariot of the Sun. Thus we have it in our Northern Summer Time: the Sun creating the Southwest Monsoon, brings it into collision with his other off- spring, the Equatorial winds and currents, and makes troublous times that side the Line, in this Indian Basin, In our Northern Winter Time, he comes down here, and gathering up his forces, now and then sends them out in the shape of Cyclones, and scatters ruin far and near. Such was that which Mauritius and Bourbon suffered in 1868, and unnumbered Rich Argosies that went down, of which no record has been kept. Now, I must draw this Letter to an end. To-morrow we hope to reach D’Urban, the chief Port of Natal, where we leave this Steamer for a short Tour of that Colony. This will not detain ns long, and by the next Steamer we will go on to Elizabeth, whence we will visit the Interior, and by Rail make our way to Cape Town. D’Urban will finish, from Port Louis, another long link of my Travel Chain, of eighteen hundred and thirty-five miles. I am getting extremely impatient to reach Cape Town, that I may receive your Letters, a good many of which, I trust, await me there. Never on any Tour, I have several times before remarked, have your Letters come so rarely. Not a single opportunity for me to write has been lost : I trust the Letters have reached you in due time and safely. How I long to know how you are, and how you got through with your works ! Your Letters, doubtless, will tell me these important things. To Margaret : How I long, too, for your Letters, such a number of which never came ! How are you all ? Give my love to the 384 LETTER NO. 16 . Doctor, and Mary, and Mag. Never on any Tour have I wanted so much to see you every one, and never again will I go upon such a Tour — thus I now feel and say. But I am in perfect health, and I hope these Letters may tell you, pleasantly, what enjoyment they have given me to write, hoping the same will follow the reading of them. I will mail this on board, or take it ashore with me and mail it there. It may thence speed on a faster Steamer than this — the faster the better. D’Urban, Natal, Scdurday, June 7, 1890. We were safely landed this mox’uing. My next Letter will give particulars. I close this for mail. In haste. With tenderest love for all, F. [No. 17.] D’Urban, Natal, Africa, Bei.grave Hotel, Saturday, June 7, 1890. My Dear Margaret , — Yesterday I finished No. 16 to Taylor, on the Steamer Duurobin Castle, of the Castle or Donald Currie Line, which brought me safely here from Mauritius via Madagascar. This morning at early dawn we sighted the long Coast of South- east Africa, lately a part of the Dark Continent, so-called, now the seat of the growing City of D’Urban, with its Towers and Church Steeples visible from the Ship, and the houses in which people not indigenous to the soil have established their business, their habitations running out upon the hills and crowning their sides and summits for miles around. This is the Port of Natal, a Colony of Great Britain, a short time ago the possession of the Kafirs — meaning, in the Arabic tongue. Infidel — one of the finest of the Savage Races that our Civiliza- tion has come across in its progress of Conquest and Robbery over the D’ URBAN— AFRICA. 385 AVorld. I am free to say, that I am not a sympathizer with those self- denominated Philanthropists, nor those ambitious, notoriety-loving Explorers who, with the Bible and the Sword, and vices to the poor Savage unknown, are running hither and thither about Africa, spread- ing a vast deal more of disease and ruin than virtue and prosperity among its inhabitants. Over all the rest of the Earth they have gone, not elevating, but simply eliminating, as you and I have in our travels seen; for a while, at least, let there be left to these people the quiet possession and enjoyment of their own Dark Continent. To proceed with my story : the Sea let down during the night ; but not enough to enable us to cross the Bar. We anchored a mile or two out, and about nine or ten o’clock a Launch came to take us and our baggage to the Landing. There were thirty or forty to go ashore, and all of us had to be transferred from tlie Steamer to the .Launch in a Basket; the Sea was too rough to permit any other mode. You will recall my similar experiences in South America ; here, the arrangement is somewhat more elaborate : instead of a simple chair, they have a cylindrical cage made of Bamboo, in which you take a seat, and are then closed in by a door and fastened, to avoid any accident that may occur from the apprehension or alarm of the occu- pant. And thus, all safely transferred, we steamed in our Launch over the Bar and through the breakers harmlessly, and were landed on the Pier. AVe here learned, for the first time, that all the Hotels of the City were crammed ; but Mr. Gouldeu, a passenger with whom I had had much talk, introduced me to a Hotel Keeper, who said he would give us Rooms in his private house; and Mr. Goulden, also, introducing us to the Customs Officer, our trunks and parcels were forthwith passed, without examination, and taken charge of by our Proprietor, and then escorted by him in a carriage to this Hotel. Some of his guests leaving in the afternoon, it was unnecessary for us to accept his invitation ; but were well quartered here. The tide of travel through these regions is now very great, and every place is crowded, they tell me, — some going home, some coming out, travelling like ourselves, simply to see, or come to seek their fortunes, induced by the Gold Fever in the Transvaal, which has had another boom. I fear we will have a crowded time in our Tour through the Colonies, and, also, on our voyage from the Cape to England. But I never annoy myself with prospective trouble and 25 386 LETTER NO. 17. inconvenience. The Room I now occupy is the one vacated by a San Franciscan, with his wife and three children, come to look for fortune, and now on his way to the Transvaal in search of the Gold Fields. I did not learn his name. After Lunch, I went to the Bank of Africa to draw some money, and then to the Post Office to mail No. 16 to Taylor. I found, on inquiry, that to post it here, rather than send it by the Dunrobin Castle Steamei-, would be making time : the Steamer which carries the mail reaching London a week before that — not being delayed by so many stoppages, and being, too, a faster Ship. Let it hurry on ! I have regretted on this Tour that I did not prepare myself with some kind of a copying apparatus. It seems there has been greater delays and more confusion and trouble with Letters to and fro on this than on any previous travel I have made. I hope, however, all may end well, and none from either side be lost. The Post Office is in the Town Hall, situated on the main or chief Street — the most imposing structure in the place, with its columns and lofty tower visible far off at Sea and for miles around. In the same Building are various other Offices and the City Museum, which last I visited. It is small, but its specimens are well gotten up and cared for. Among them I will only mention those of the Puff Adder — of which there are three or four — two or three feet long, thick as my anu, of a dusky-black color, and an uglier, more savage and horrid-looking monster I never saw. There is something royal in the Cobra and the Rattle Snake, venomous though they be ; the Puff Adder is simply hideous — “ earthly, sensual, devilish.” I then strolled about the Street. Being Saturday afternoon, the stores in general were closed ; but many people, white and colored, were abroad — the former mostly English, the latter Indians or Hindoos, Coolies, and Kafirs. The Kafir is woolly-headed and black, much like those of whom I have spoken in Mauritius and Madagascar, and our own Negroes. But, as they are the Aborigines of Natal, and one of, if not the most interesting of the exhibits of the Colony, I will delay writing about, till I have seen more of them. I came across a Curio Shop, and bought an Assegai, the chief weapon of the Kafir before he was conquered — a simple Iron spear- head of their own manufacture, with a short handle. I will take it home with me for our travel curiosity shop. The Curio-Seller tells me, they are not allowed to carry them now, and whenever a poor jy URBAN— NATAL. 387 fellow is seen with one, it can be taken from him — Othello’s occu- pation being gone and his Country passed to other hands. Thus was the afternoon consumed. I walked on the shady side of the Street, the Sun was hot, and I did not trust myself to its rays ; in the shade or under my umbrella, the air was cool and pleasant enough. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, June 8, 1890. This has been to me a day of rest, and I have quietly enjoyed it. I sent my thoughts to you over the watei’s, more than ten thousand miles away, and made myself one of you on this quiet Sabbath. I could picture to myself what you were all about ; you had no idea where I was and what a-doing on this far East Coast of Africa. Had it been in Cape Town, and your Letters had met me, it would have been far better. But even as it was, I could sever my heart from my presence and surroundings, and speed it to you aci’oss the World — as I do now. Last night was cool and pleasant — the nights always are, I am told, at this season of the year in Natal. The rocking on the Sea for many days fitted me for the stable quiet of a bed ; I recognized the fitness, and slept nine solid hours. When the morning came, all weariness was gone, and I was myself again. Certainly, I am blessed with an elastic constitution. The sober and temperate habits of my life are now repaying me many fold ; and the reserve forces these habits never wasted, but rather garnered, now, when called upon, do not fail to come, and infusing into my nerves the readiness and vigor of youth, keep my forces of mind and body ever fresh — though, save in sleep, never resting. I stayed in my Chamber all the morning, and enjoyed through my open door the luxuriant vegetation that filled the Compound, and the pleasant temperature. In the afternoon we walked about the town — out upon the suburbs on the beach, and from it viewed the Ocean dashing itself in breakers over the Bar and sending them in white crests along the Shore. The town seems to be below the water level, we ascending toward the Sea upon the main Street, which ends upon it; but if below, the high Shore Line protects it like a bulwark. Our good Ship, Dunrobin Castle, still swung at anchor in the offing, and will not leave till to-morrow ; several other Vessels bore 388 LETTER NO. 17. her company, and they and the curving Shore Line, dominated on the South by a conspicuous Bluff, crowned with a handsome Light House, the water with its caps lapping the whole circumference with an unbroken rim of white, held us for some time in admiration. The people of the town — both white and black — were out in their Sunday best: the former mainly English, and their costumes simply a transfer to these regions of European clothing in cut and fashion. The blacks were Kafirs licked somewhat into shape by civilized influ- ences, but with much about them smelling of the Savagedom from which they lately sprang. Generally a strong, fine-looking set, their woolly hair, sometimes in knots, unkempt as Nature made it, some- times plaited into twists and strands, standing out all over, not unlike Medusa heads — substituting worms for snakes ; deprived of the right to carry Assegais, almost without exception, they, boys and men, carried canes, often each with two, twirling them like any other dude; their clothing was varied as their ability and taste — an old uniform above, with bare legs below, almost invariably without shoes, a shirt and breeches reaching not much below the knee, showing a leg that would have excited the envy of the handsomest in the days of shorts ; their ankles, and wrists, and ears, and nose adorned with abundant weight of Barbaric Gold and Silver, and precious stones and Pinch- back — stepping with elastic gait and abandon, showing a portion of the spirit and courage which made them in days not long gone, and in defence of their homes, foemen not unworthy of English steel. Their countenances, of our own Negro type, and bearing, indicate the joyous and amiable temper which seems ever to belong to the Negro Races ; but neither their faces nor heads betray any intellectu- ality : and those with whom I have talked, say they have as yet manifested none. They make good servants within the limits of their capacity, but have to be directed, having no ability for continu- ous or methodic labor, and seeming to require a total cessation of it for a few mouths in the year, when they give themselves up to fun and idleness, utterly regardless of consequences, either to their em- ployers or themselves. They are said to be increasing in numbers, not diminishing. This may be only temporary, until they take on fully the vices of the Civilization which dominates them. But the whites, too, are increas- ing, normally and by immigration, for the climate and soil of Natal are not altogether unsuited to them, both in physical and intellectual X>’ URBAN— NATAL. 389 work ; and now, again, there comes to us the inquiry — What the result will be of this Race Question on this far off Coast of Africa? Indeed, the conquest of the World by the White Race, and the close contiguity into which all its parts are brought by rapid and easy modes of locomotion, is hasting the solution of the profoundest and most intricate problem it has ever been given to man to solve. We continued our walk, returning by another Street, parallel to the main, on which are located some excellent private residences. The town consists principally of three streets, parallel to each other, and suburban residences covering the hills. The houses are built chiefly of brick, stuccoed, and mostly unpretentious, of one, sometimes two stories, and the thoroughfares are well Macadamized and paved. I have spoken of the Town Hall ; just opposite is a large Square, ornamented with grass, trees, and flowers, a highly creditable affair. They claim a population of from fifteen to twenty thousand, white and black combined, and the founders of the town have laid it out for many ■ more, with wide, well-graded streets — the main one a spacious, striking Avenue, threading the town handsomely. Same City and Hotel, Monday, June 9, 1890. We, this morning, prepared for the utilization of our time in Natal, and our journey thence through Natal and onward. We ascertained the time of the trains up the Country, and engaged our passage on the Steamer for the City of Elizabeth on Algoa Bay, leaving next Sunday. This will give us a week for seeing Natal — quite enough, I think, with the present rapid locomotion. A few years ago, it would have had to be done in wagons, drawn by Bullocks. Now, the Locomotive speeds us. In the afternoon, we strolled about the town, visiting the Shops and looking at the people. I bought a Spoon for our Set, and had it marked in memory of Natal ; and some Photographs, that you may see what manner of people the Kafirs are when “ at home,” in their Native huts, and Kraals, and in their simple garments — just the simplest in the World — ‘Hn purls Naturalihus’' Save the spangles in their ears and nose, and on their legs, and arms, and neck, they are as unadorned as the Arkansas Major with his shirt collar and spurs. But their costume, if not suited to the Drawing Room in this jira- 390 LETTER NO. 17. crack, effeminate age, sets off their finely -developed anatomy far better than Worth could do with all his Parisian Art. Returning, I witnessed a street fisticuff between a White boy and a Kafir urchin — which was interesting, inasmuch as neither could hurt the other much. The White was the bigger, and picked the quarrel. The Kafir stood up pretty well for a while, but his pale- faced antagonist getting his head in chancery, was hitting it some vigorous blows, which knocked the courage out of the Savage, and he pulling out, took to his heels, and left the White boy victor of the field ; a fair picture of what has been already done between their sires, and of what wilt be done in the near coming time between them and their comrades, when they attain to manhood, in a far fiercer and ultimately exterminating battle. Can oil and water mix? Yesterday, we saw a striking Bird taking its flight over the City, conspicuous for its size, and shape, and color. This morning, during the early hours, I saw two of them in the Compound of the Hotel, to which they are domesticated. They are four or five feet high, of varied |)lumage — black, white, and brown — with long legs and un- webbed feet, and equally long neck, crowned with a brilliantly golden- crested head. They are very handsome, and stalk about among the Turkeys, Hens, and Ducks with proud and careless air — the Barn- yards quietly getting out of their kingly way. The Proprietor tells me, they are the Kafir Golden-Crested Crane, and belong to him. Unaccustomed to confinement, like their fellow-Kafir man, they mainly live abroad or upon the wing, coming at hours daily to be fed. This afternoon, we saw one of them upon the Cupola of the Court House, where he always spends the night ; maybe, thinking he will be safe upon the Court of Justice, not having yet learned, like his congeners, that “ the White man is very onsartin.” It is no easy matter for the aforesaid White man to keep the Scales of Justice well poised in the Temple below, how can he upon its roof, where the wandering, shaky winds furnish an excuse for their uneven balance? Our Golden-Crested friend had better look out. It rained last night and this morning, settling the dust and cleaning up the Sky, and making the atmosphere a luxury to breathe. PIETEBMABITZB UBG— NATAL. 391 Pietermaritzburg, Natal, Imperial Hotel, Tuesday, June 10, 1890. You see from the heading of this day’s story, that I am at the Capital of the Colony, seventy and one-fourth miles from D’Urban. We stored our heavy baggage at the Belgrave Hotel, and with our Satchels started for the Town these pages will hurriedly tell you of. We walked to the Station, and at eleven o’clock were on the Road to this City. It is narrow gauge, but well built, and the cars in Coach style, comfortable. We had a whole compartment to ourselves, and had a fine opportunity of observing the Country whilst we travelled. I have obtained several Maps of South Africa, and will send you and Charles and Taylor one each, that you may follow me on all my inland Excursions readily. They are published by the Railroad and Steamship Companies, and have the routes distinctly marked. Continuously moving and ascending, we reached here at four and a-half o’clock in the afternoon ; the Proprietor of the Belgrave had telegraphed to this Hotel for Rooms, taking this precaution on account of the volume of travel which seems to be tiding everywhere through the Country. Response came that we could be accommodated. But, though we were met at the Station on our arrival, and brought here in a Carriage without trouble or inconvenience, the Landlady, with much embarrassment, said she only had one Room — the gentleman who was to have vacated was detained, but she would fix me up comfortably in the Drawing Room ; of course, I, without demur, surrendered the Chamber to my Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nead. I have no reason to complain of my Landlady, for the Room was nicely fitted up with a bed, and, doubtless, I fared the better for the apparent contretemps, for I am quite sure I had the best quarters in the Hotel, the Room being large and handsomely furnished. Our ride was one of the most beautiful and interesting of my travel experience. Natal has a fine reputation both for Country and climate — altogether the best in South Africa ; and I have not been disappointed. Pietermaritzburg is, I am informed, two thousand feet above the Sea, and the Road reaches it by constant ascent, rounding with many gradients the succession of hills and valleys into which the whole region is moulded. The contour is very singular; just as 392 LETTER NO. 17. if, in liquid state, it had rolled in enormous billows like the Ocean, and in the hour of its most tumultuous action, had been arrested : not in peaks, as if driven by fierce Volcanic forces, but rounded into graceful curves, of violent fluid motion, sinking into rest. Sometimes these hills and valleys would be adorned with trees; but taking the whole reach of Country, I would call it rather void of forests. For many miles after leaving the City these heights are crowned with homes — generally simple verandahed one-story houses, built of brick or frame, sheathed with corrugated iron — sometimes quite handsome Villas, but always with some adornment of trees and flowers. On the lower ground. Banana and Orange Groves abounded. The former, I thought, larger and more numerous than I have ever seen elsewhere — and now and then fields of Sugar Cane; on the higher grounds, ascending, we passed through large areas of Wheat and Oats for Winter forage — but larger still of Indian Corn — called Mealies — and when not cultivated, the rounded hills and valleys, covered with grass, where many Cattle I’anged. On either hand we passed the native Kraals or Villages — a few Huts round about an enclosed space where they herd their stock — the fence built of stone or sticks, of a very unsubstantial and tempo- rary character. The Huts are of various shapes and sizes, but gener- ally round like a bisected orange : the frame, of Withe or Bamboo, filled in or thatched with straw or grass, not an inartistic affair, with no opening save a low round door, about thi-ee feet high by two, through which, to gain an entrance, the occupant must crawl. Some of my Photographs will give you a clear idea of their Architecture. Though the Kafirs are said to be very numerous and wonderfully able-bodied, I observed most of the operatives on the road and in the field are imported Hindoo Coolies ; the poor, intellectually-un- developed Kafir cannot be relied upon for continuous work : after a spasmodic effort he must rest his sturdy corpus, and let the work, for ought he cares, go to I’ot. The spindling, but developed Indian comes thousands of miles from his own home, and ousts the burly Savage from the field of Labor. For many miles we had, moving upon higher and higher ground, a magnificent panorama opening of Land and Sea. The wonderfully beautiful and picturesque outlines of the Country, now assuming Oval, now Conical, now Mesa shapes, invited our admiration ; whilst far beyond, the Ocean lay, sweeping to the limits of the human vision. PIETEBMABITZB UBG—NA TAL. 393 by refraction of the atmosphere producing an optical illusion which made the surface seem to rise, along the Horizon, into a mountain- height high as that on which we travelled, the Sea a hollow concave, much like that of which I told you on my First Tonr, when travel- ling in Hawaii. But few Birds enlivened the Landscape, a flock or two of Linnets, and one or two sporadic Birds, white and black, about half the size of a Robin, and a quite large flock of Crows, the first I have seen, flapping across our track and reminding me of the myriads we have at home, when going out on their daily forage, or coming back to roost. On our arrival at the Hotel, and taking a cup of Tea, we went out and wandered about till dark. The town was founded by the Boers, and named after Pieter Retief and Gerhardus Maritz, two of their eminent men. It is regularly and well laid out in parallel and wide streets, with a large open area in the centre called the Market Square, on which the Post Ofiice fronts, in whose enclosure there is a Marble Monument to those who fell in the Zulu War. On the Market Square, also, stands the Police Station and the Market House, both excellent brick structures ; and not far off, fronting the street which bounds one side of the Square, stands the Legislative Hall, with lofty Corinthian Columns. The City’s site is admirable : quite high and conspicuous, whilst about it higher hills rise, which in some places loom into Mountains. It contains, I am told, twelve or fifteen thousand peo])le — White, Kafir, and Cooley. The houses are mainly of brick or stuccoed, verandahed, one story, and generally, save the business ones, with ornamented yards around them. Whilst walking, I saw three Kafir Girls, with baskets of fruit upon their heads for sale, and a crowd of white urchins around them, tipping their baskets and amusing themselves with their jewelry ; the girls meantime annoyed and defending themselves the best they could. Another straw to show the current of the wind. At eight o’clock, hearing the Legislature would be in Session, I went to see it. The Hall is an excellent one, and well fitted up, the members having cushioned high-back chaii’s, arranged behind four rows of desks, extending from the Speaker, two on either side ; the open space in front occupied by the Officers of the House. It con- sists of thirty members, twenty-three of whom are elected, the others are Officers of the Government and ex officio members ; the electors 394 LETTER NO. 17. are with property qualification. The body is highly respectable in appearance and the pi’oceedings dignified. Nothing of importance was transacted, and soon getting tired, I came home, and found better occupation in the companionship of Sleep. Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, June 11, 1890. Desiring to visit a Kraal, our Landlady introduced me to Mr. Smith, a boarder at the Hotel and a member of the Legislative Assembly, who, she said, could give me the information I desired. He did so cheerfully, and said he lived four miles from town, and near his home were several — one especially good, two miles further on, and instructed Joe, the Negro Driver, how to get there. Joe, though he speaks the Kafir tongue, says he is not of them ; his father was a slave and came to Pietermaritzburg, where Joe was born — Slavery in the Colonies of England having then been abolished. Joe is a good fellow, and reminded me much of our old servant Mack ; and made us a valuable driver and guide to-day. I had a good deal of talk with Mr. Smith and another member of the Legislature, to whom he introduced me, I think by the name of Young. We talked about the future of the Kafir ; I said, I observed that most of the employees on the Roads and in the fields were Indian Coolies. He replied, that this was true ; tlie Kafir was indolent and lazy, and worked only under the compulsion of necessity, and he had no hope of their improvement; he did not think it was in them. And in the progress of events, maybe in his lifetime, the struggle between them and the Whites would come, and the unfittest would be swept away. He said the soil of Natal was not all equal to what it often seemed ; some of that I saw was very fine — some thin ; nor was the climate always so genial as that I now experienced. When the Sum- mer came, the heat was often great — like the breath of a Sirocco. But all in all. Natal, he thought, a fine, healthful Country. He is a native of Aberdeen, Scotland, and has been in South Africa more than forty years, a big, healthy Scotchman. But I have not time to detail the conversation I had with him and his colleague, of much interest and instruction to me. After Breakfast, we visited the Market, and were struck with the fine vegetables and their variety exposed for sale — the same we raise PIETEBMARITZBUEG— KAFIR KRAAL. 395 in our Gardens — Cabbage, Turnips, Beets, Cauliflower, Celery, Pota- toes, Carrots, &c. We, also, observed the Ox Wagons, some of which had from twelve to twenty Oxen ; it seemed to me, though the ani- mals were not large, an extravagant waste of force. Such were the vehicles with which, a short time since, the transfer of passengers and produce was made through South Africa. A man or boy conducts the leaders by a rope ; the driver urges them with a long whip-handle, and thong from thirty to forty feet. Now, the Rail and Coaches drawn by horses have superseded all such slow and cumbrous work. Returning to the Hotel we found Joe with his Carriage ready for us — a two-horse, four-seated affaii-, with falling top, admirably suited for our purposes. His horses were good, and he soon brought us, over a good road, to the object of our jaunt — the Kafir Kraal. After passing Mr. Smith’s House, we saw it in the distance across the Country, situated in an open field : eight or ten circular huts, such as I have described, surrounding a place enclosed by a stone fence, in which tlieir Cattle w^ere gathered ; their Goats were enclosed in a wicker frame not unlike their huts. We saw around about, standing or squatting in the dust and sun, a number of almost naked Kafirs — men, women, and children. We wanted to see into their habitations, which we on near inspection found were well and firmly constructed of withes, over which straw or long grass was thatched or woven with strong rope of the same material, or after being thatched a net of rope spread over it to keep it tight and close, making it seemingly impervious to the weather. Joe said they had Milk and Beer to sell — the latter made from Mealies or Indian Corn. To introduce ourselves, I requested Joe to tell them we w’anted some Beer; which one, who seemed to be the head man, ordered to be brought. They brought it in a large tin pan from one of the huts, together with a glass, all looking very dirty. I drank some, which tasted much like fresh Mexican Pulque, and not unlike it in its milky, dusky-white appearance. Mr. and Mrs. Nead could not summon courage to follow my example; where- upon I doled it out by the glassfull to Joe, who enjoyed it hugely, and thereupon soon became like the Fat Boy in Pickwick, and on our journey back kept me busy stirring him up to keep him in the Road. Meanwhile, the Kafirs gathered confidence, and the women came out and showed us themselves and their scant costume, and the chil- 396 LETTER NO. 17. dren, without a stitch of clothing, seemed happy in their freedom and enjoyed our company. The small door-way was the only opening the mansions had, and I got upon my knees and, crawling in, had an ample survey of the interior and contents. The floor was earth and the framework was supported by four or five upright posts ; they had no chairs, nor tables, nor furniture of any sort, and the wretchedly cheerless scene was only relieved by the reflection, that housekeeping was an easy thing — no sweeping, no dusting, no setting to I’ights of furniture, no brushing away of crumbs, no dressing and undressing, simply lying down and getting up, with the coming night and day, taking no thought of the morrow, and toiling and spinning not, but in no particular whatsoever resembling Solomon or the Lily. Here is the sure enough happiness and contentment of Savage Life, of which Philosophers write and talk, with none of the bothers of Civili- zation ; and they certainly seemed to be free from care and very happy. I paid the man for his Beer and he bowed thankfully. Mr. Nead gave an old woman a Shilling, and she jumped gleefully around and held it in the air and whirled like a Dervish, and, half naked and hideously ugly and shriveled, performed evolutions and pronounced invocations that would have done credit to Shakespeare’s Witches in Macbeth ; and the young women and men and children joined in laughing at the old woman’s joyfulness. And then we came away, quite satisfied that our Excursion had given us an insight into the Kafir life, not promising for their future, in such close contact with men and things clean out of harmony. Joe says the men have wives in proportion to their ability to buy them — at the rate of eleven cows per wife. A wife is a valuable piece of property : for the women do the work and their honoi'able Lords look on and admire. This we observed upon the road and streets, where they carried the burdens and the men walked before, and chatted and twirled the regulation cane. We returned in time for Lunch, and in the afternoon walked out and finished Pietermaritzburg. I bought a Kafir Snutf Box — a kind of gourd, ornamented with brass wire — quite the best piece of Kafir workmanship I have seen. Like the universal Negro Race they are a joyous set — dancing on the streets singly or in squads. Does it not appear to be a shame, that all this lightness of heart should be crushed out by the Jugger- naut of our Civilization ? PIETERMARITZBURG TO LADYSMITH. 397 Ladysmith, Natal, Railway Hotel, Thursday, June 12, 1890. Leaving Pietermaritzburg at forty minutes past eight, after an early Breakfast, we reached the place which heads this at five in the afternoon, by a narrow gauge Railway — a distance of one hundred and nineteen miles. The Road is ascending nearly the whole travel, by a circuitous route, rounding the hills, and following the valleys and streams much in the same manner I have described that from D’Urban to Pieter- maritzburg. But whilst an almost continuous climb, and presenting much of interest by the way, in the contour of the Country through which we passed and the more distant views, it has not the command- ing beauty which that spread out for our enjoyment. The soil evidently was much thinner, and the hills and Mountains instead of being gracefully rounded with grass-grown summits, were often of fixed rock or scattered fragments and boulders, absolutely beyond the reach of tillage. The cultivation consequently diminished as we advanced, though there was still considerable Indian Corn and Oats for forage, and Kafir Corn — a grain resembling our Buckwheat, though of growth entirely different ; more like spindling Indian Corn or Maize. Agricnltnral products diminishing. Pastoral increased, and more numerous and large herds of Cattle, and Sheep, and Goats appeared. The Cattle are of the same breed all over the Colony — now and then a streak of the East Indian Bullock, rai-ely of the Buffalo, many among them black like the Scotch Highland, and though much smaller, resembling in shape our Texas cattle, and with the same enormous lateral reach of horns. The Goats were of the Angora stock, and all. Cattle, Sheep, and Goats, looked well, without being over fat. The grass is now sere and yellow in these high regions, this being the dry Season, which is regarded as lasting from April to August. The grass when dry and yellow is not nutritious like our Buffalo and Bunch of the Western Plains, and consequently they now burn great areas of it, which with the coming of their Spring, beginning in Sep- tember, will cover the whole Country with a carpet of green, both nutritious and beautiful. Now it is black with the ashes of the fires. 398 LETTER NO. 17. The Country is naturally devoid of timber, probably like our Prairies, the result of the fires, preventing the survival of young gi’owths ; but hundreds of thousands of trees have been jilanted, principally the Eucalyptus or Blue Gum of California, not only around the homes, but in groves and over large areas, which, grow- ing rapidly, now' adorn great ranges, like Oases. Yesterday, when riding to the Kraal, I observed numerous Ant Hills, of size varying from a foot in height to three or four. I got out of the Carriage and kicked the top or a portion off one or two, but observed no life within, and thought probably the inmates had retired lower into Winter quarters. To-day the fields were covered with thousands of them, all of the same architectural build — oval in shape, though of various sizes, and similar in form to the Kafir Huts in the Kraals, of which I told you. Maybe the Savage learned how to build his habitation from the industrious insect. In various Countries, I have seen the little creatures’ homes and work ; but nowhere in the World have I seen such enormous numbers — cover- ing square miles. I do not know how they affect vegetation, or the productive value of the land they thus occupy. I will try to learn. Getting farther into the interior, the Kraals of the Natives increased in number, but always of the style of the one we visited; and the Kafirs themselves presented the same appearance, running or loung- ing around, half naked, or working maybe; and so joyous and happy that purple and fine linen would not add to their contentment. When we had progressed probably tw^enty or thirty miles, the fine Drakenberg Range of Mountains, patched with snow, came in view, bounding Natal’s Western boi’ders, and continued off and on till we reached Ladysmith ; now and then shut out by intervening Moun- tains. They are the Watershed where the great Orange and Vaal Rivers find their source, and drain South Africa’s Western Water- shed into the Atlantic Ocean. Their Eastern front is more precipi- tous, and from a much smaller shed sends numerous Rivers through Natal, none of which are navigable ; across or along several of them the Railway found its course to-day. The Drakenberg are fi’om six to eight thousand feet in height — reaching, I believe, ten in several summits. And its, in sections, bulky and pronounced and jagged outlines added much to the scenic import of our ride. Several hours before reaching here we passed Estcourt, a Station on the Road and now a Military Post, three thousand nine hundred LADYSMITH. 399 feet above the Sea — Ladysmith is, probably, more than four thousand. I have no means of ascertaining its exact elevation ; certainly, we are high, for when the Sun took himself away, the atmosphere recognized its altitude by becoming cool, if not chilly. This is not the terminus of the Road ; it extends to New Castle, seventy-nine miles beyond. We thought of going there, but the trains, both to and fro, run in the night-time, and, of course, shut out the Country — the only inducement for the trip. Its name implies its resources ; and there and in the vicinity are valuable deposits of bitu- minous Coal, rivalling in quality, one of the Officers of the Road told me, the finest in the World. Beyond the Tiigela River, a little fui’ther, lies the famous Zululand. Our Landlady in Pietermaritzburg telegraphed for Rooms for us, and when we arrived, the Rooms were ready. The Hotel is, happily, near the Station, and though only a short while before dark, for dai’k comes here, at this Season, before six, we had time to pedestrianize the town, which is young and green, though it spreads itself over wide and regular streets, with the airs of an older and grander place. But with all her airs, she has not a single thing which will fill a line of the veracious traveller’s Chronicle. The Hotel is good and comfortable enough. D’Ueban, Natal, Imperial Hotel, Friday, June 13, 1890. The night was cool at Ladysmith, and towards morning it rained slightly, settling the dust, and making things fresher. To-day, like every day of this jaunt from D’Urban, has been perfection for travel- ling in these Regions : the Sky without a cloud, and the atmo.sphere clear and brilliant in an extraordinary degree. Certainly, I have hit the proper Season to visit Natal. I have found out something concerning the Ants. My informants tell me, they are of various colors, red, black, and white ; the white are of the same noxious species that destroy lumber, and luxuriate in eating whatever is constructed of wood. But they do no harm to the lands, either for agriculture or pasturage. Indeed, for the former, do good, acting like diminutive ploughs in pulverizing the soil, and with the same efficacy as the tiny ploughshare of the frost. 400 LETTER NO. 17. I try to secure something in every Country characteristic of its people. I think I told you, I got a whale-bone carved Club in New Zealand, the weapon of the Mahori ; a Boomerang and a Throwing Stick in Australia, the most peculiar products of its Aborigines ; the other day I bought an Assegai, the celebrated spear of the Kafir, with which he made himself famous when he defended his Kraals from the White invader, and with which he killed the Prince Imperial of Fi’ance in Zululand ; and to-day I bought a Club, such as they carried when they fought for their Country : ovei’come, poor creatures, in the effort, and not being allowed, by his conqueror, to carry an Assegai, with some faint remembrance of his days of freedom, he now totes lightly, whether on work or pleasure bent, sticks or canes — one or more — to represent his Assegai, and, now and then, a club, like that his fathers or himself bore in the fruitless struggle against firearms. They are of various makes — some like what we would call a club, bulging towards the end; some simple sticks, with a circular plate on the end of heavy wood ; some terminating in a ball — a dangerous thing to the head of an adversary in close engagement; one of the latter 1 bought from a Kafir on the street in Ladysmith, and will take it home for our curiosity shop. To-day, in coming down, I saw a flock of Buzzards, not equal to ours in size, but their rivals in lofty, graceful flight — gathering to the carcass with the same aerial circuits, which make us forget their foul pursuit, in the realm of the beautiful in motion, to which their pinions carry us. And more crows, too, came along, to take us, in memory, home. Ladysmith is distant from here one hundred and eighty-nine and one-fourth miles. We left there at half-past eight in the morning, and reached D’Urban at eleven o’clock at night — nearly fifteen hours — a long and fatiguing ride ; longer in time than distance. Our Pro- prietor met us at the Station with a Carriage, and we were soon fixed in our Rooms, after taking a Supper he had ready prepared. I have said nothing of the Country ; a simple reverse view of that about which I wrote, going up. But, altogether, our jaunt into Natal was pleasant every way, and profitable. I enjoyed again the Drakenberg Mountain Range ; but the coming on of night at Pietermaritzburg shut out the lovely Landscapes thence, and the glorious vision of the Sea. n URBAN TO VERVLAM. 401 Same City and Hotel, Satihrday, June 14, 1890. We expected to have sailed to-morrow for Port Elizabeth ; but learned that the Steamer’s departure had been postponed till Monday. You observe they are never on time out here, entailing much loss of it upon the traveller. Having the day to myself, I determined to utilize it by running out on the Rail to Verulam ; your Map will show you, a small place North of D’Urban. My trip of the last few days took me into the high lands of the Interior ; I wished, by this, to see those of the low and near the Coast. Mr. and Mrs. Nead wanted rest and did not go. The distance is twenty miles, and took, going and coming, from eleven till three o’clock. I did not linger there, the place itself being yet a while only a terminus, the intervening Country being the in- ducement of the trip, and it repaid me. The region and its products pi’esent a Tropic scene. The Landscape is not flat, as I supposed it would be thus near the Sea, but rolling — sometimes violently — both the high and low grounds cultivated almost entirely in Sugar ; which at various stages of its growth seemed to be of excellent quality. Where not cultivated, the lands were luxuriant in trees and tangled Tropic growths of shrubs and flowers ; though, you observe, Natal is below the South Tropic Line, among the growths I noticed a species of Cactus, shaped, with bulky trunk and numerous tapering branches, not unlike in symmetry a well-formed Ash — the most graceful and beautiful thing of the Cactus kind I ever saw. A Lady on the train told me, it is appropriately called the Tree Cactus; and in the Spring — our Autumn — is covered with a red bloom, and turns its bare arms into a perfect blaze of loveliness. There were residences, simple Country homes, and pretentious Villas crowning some of the hill tops, and Indian-Cooley and Kafir huts, in groups and Ki’aals, here and there along the entire line — the Indian more numerous than the Kafir. The poor Kaflr, with his fine physique and knotty, brainless head, is completely upset by the forms and entanglements of Civilization. Our Aryan brother comes with his little body and big head and flts in anywhere, ousting the bulky Kafir of his preserves. The stranger from the East and from the West is driving the helpless Savage to the wall in his own 26 402 LETTER NO. 17. Country. The Hindoo, I noticed, is the laborer in the field, and fills all the subordinate places on the Railroad, and keeps the little stores and shops. The Kafir could knock him out with fists — the little Hindoo beats him with the head. I had frequent talks with the Officials and others on the train, and at the Stations ; they say the Kafir is not the only one who suffers by the importation of the Cooley ; the White man, unable to organ- ize the Negro into efficient laborers, brought the Hindoo to take his place, and now complains that he is filling the field of labor with such efficiency, in every department, that the White man is being clean driven from the Country. White men, I observe, are the Loco- motive Drivers, the Conductors, the Station Masters, and the Ticket Agents, and Guards — all the other employees are Hindoos. My informants tell me there is no place out here for the White Laborer : the intelligent and more economical Indian cuts him out. There are yet scarce any Chinamen ; I told him to wait a while till John came and took his nip, and the disinterested and unselfish Anglo-Saxon would pass Laws to keep or drive the developed and dangerous Con- fuciaus and Hindoos from the land because of obnoxious elements to their Civilization, and put the poor Kafirs under the ground, because cumberers of it, unless he could be drilled to work. I had time at Verulam to look around a little and take Lunch and chat a while with the people I met there. It is a nice Village, on high ground, and the Hotel near the Station — the best-looking and best-kept of any I have come across since leaving - Sydney ; which opinion I put into information for the benefit of the Landlord, and it gave him pleasure. Mrs. Nead was very anxious to have a Kafir Club, and not able to secure one, I bought an excellent specimen from a Kafir and made her a present of it. Retui’iiing, I again enjoyed the Country in reverse. We met a train coming out, of numerous cars of every class ; it being Saturday Evening, crowds were going to spend Sunday at their Villas, their Country residences, their Huts, their Kraals, each according to his kind — the Kafirs and Cooleys crowded like Sardines in a box. Near the town we crossed the wide bed of the Umgeni River, now nearly dry, which flows on the North side into the Indian Ocean — but evi- dently in the rainy season a big and roaring stream, when the floods come tumbling from the uplands. Far off down its open channel we saw the smooth waters of the Ocean. On the South side is the Bay D’ URBAN. 403 of Natal, up which the Tug brought us when we crossed the Bar and landed. The City of D’Urban is often called Port Natal. Into this Bay the Umlazi River flows, but of no value for navi- gation. I think I have remarked, that owing to the small Water- shed on the East side of the Mountain, none of the Rivers of Natal, though numerous, are navigable: they are either shallow streams or turbulent torrents. In the afternoon, we hired the Proprietor’s two-horse Carriage and visited the suburbs — the West End of D’Urban, where the Aris- tocracy reside, along the Berea and Musgrave Roads, on either side of which handsome homes on high ground overlooking the City and the Sea abound. The view towards Sunset was exceeding fine, the whole City like a Map below us, the Ocean beyond, with the Light House on the Point and Steamers swinging at their anchors. I never weary of the Ocean, however much it may have tossed me. I do not wonder that Xenophon, skilful writer that he was, knew how to cap his story with the sublime. After bringing his Ten Thousand with thrilling interest through many perils, he finished with a climax that all the World has admired since, leading his toil and travel- worn army to the Euxine, and filling the heart of the Esthetic Greek not only with a sense of safety, but his very soul and tongue with the splendid vision of the Sea ! the Sea ! We visited, in the same vicinity, the D’Urban Botanical Gardens, and wandered through them, admiring how the young places in these newly discovered Countries in the pursuit of the Useful, never forget the cultivation of the Beautiful. You have seen how, wherever I have been and however juvenile the place, they have laid the ground- plan of Gardens destined to be of great value to the future of the Country and its people. It was nightfall when we returned. I will mention here, simply because it oceurs to me, and you may wish to know, that the Currency of the Colonies of Great Britain in South Africa is Pounds, Shillings, and Pence. This is not neces- sarily the Currency of her Colonies : you will recall, that the Cur- rency of Mauritius is Rupees ; and will recollect from my Fourth Tour, that it is the same in India, whilst farther East it is the Dollar. 404 LETTER NO. 17. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, June 16, 1890. This has been a quiet day of rest, and, consequently, with no inci- dents worth writing of. In the afternoon, my friends and I took a walk upon the main Street of the City and enjoyed the throngs of people of various Races and Nationalities, walking hither and thither — the White, the Indian, and the Kafir — in their respective costume and toggery. On our walk, we came across a Salvation Army troop, discoursing silly talk, accompanied by a Band. The Kafir could not understand the Eng- lish lingo ; but with the constitutional sympathy with sound which all Negroes have, seemed ready for a dance when the Music began ; for he will cut his pidgeon wing anywhere and how, as I have seen him often do on and along the streets without apparent provocation. In the Evening, I sat with a number of young Englishmen under the trees in front of the Hotel, and talked about the Orange Free State and the Transvaal, the Countries of the Dutch Boers, where they had lived or travelled, and the English Colonies and their con- dition and prospects ; and an hour or two passed pleasantly — keeping me up beyond my usual hour. Steamer Mexican, Union Steamship Line, From Natal to Port Elizabeth, Along South African Coast, Monday, June 16, 1890. I was up early, preparing for a move. All things ready, we Breakfasted, and our Proprietor took us and our baggage to the Landing, whence, in a Launch, we were transferred to the Steamer, anchored a mile or two beyond the Bar. Soon our baggage and our- selves were aboard, lifted in a basket similar to that which helped us from the Dunrobiu Castle on our arrival, and were comfortably quartered in our State-Rooms. I have a fine one, altogether to myself. The Steamer is large — four thousand five hundred and forty-nine tons — and well appointed. The number of passengers are few in proportion to her capacity, and we have plenty of elbow room — than which nothing, on travel, is more comfortable. I have had such a STEAMSHIP MEXICAN— NATAL TO PORT ELIZABETH. 405 number of crowds on this Tour, which I have told you of, that I would like to think the same fortune would attend me from Cape Town to England, instead of from Natal to Port Elizabeth, which I propose to make the terminus of this run, and travel thence through the interior of the Cape Colonies to Cape Town, in place of going directly there, by which nothing could be seen of the Country. We reached the Steamer by twelve o’clock, and at half-past one. Anchor lifted, were under way. Southwest along the African Coast. We steamed in easy distance and in view, and in the delightful breeze made by the Vessel’s motion, aided by a slight head-wind, could from the Deck enjoy the scene. The Shore Line is high, and recedes into higher and higher elevations, all clad in vegetation — some cultivated, and some, seemingly, in Nature’s primeval growths, presenting a charming Landscape ; in the Evening beautified by the Sun, when he went down behind them, leaving on the clouds above and across them, on the water, some of the most splendid of his touches. With this propitious send off, we leave Natal. Our journey- ings in it were very pleasant ; I hope you found the rapid story of them not wearisome or unprofitable in the reading. It is a region that has had a not altogether uneventful life. It was discovered by Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese Navigator, on Christmas Day, 1497, and hence called Natal. I have told you briefly of its lay and prod- ucts and climate : on the North is Zululand, where, in the heroic contest of the Zulu Kafirs for the Country in 1879-80, the young Napoleon, Prince Imperial of France, met his fate; on the South, Kafifraria, all along the Shore of the Indian Ocean, the latter divid- ing it from the Cape Colony pi’oper ; on the West lie the Moun- tain Range, of which I have already spoken, that divides it from the Orange Free State and the Transvaal, or South African Republic, the Land of the Boers, of whom I will speak more in the progress of my travels. It has the name of Transvaal, because it is beyond the River Vaal, a tributary of the Orange, one of the largest of African Rivers. Natal continued undisturbed for centuries the home of the Kafirs, its Aboriginal inhabitants, divided into many discon- nected tribes. About the beginning of this century — 1813 — Chaka, a son of one of the chiefs, appeared. His father, fearing his ambitious temper, had driven him from home ; but on his father’s death he returned, and taking the succession, played the r6le which Kamehameha did in 406 LETTER NO. 17. the Hawaiian- Islands, of which I gave you an account on my First Tour, and by fierce discipline and energy, conquered the other tribes and united them under one rule from the Cape Colony to Delagoa Bay. Chaka was murdered by his brother Umslangaan in 1838 ; who in turn was murdered a few days thereafter by Dingaan, another brother, who became the second great Kafir Chief. The Boers, driven out of the Cape Colony by the English, “ trekked ’’ or emigi’ated Northward, and a portion of them came to Natal by invitation of Dingaan, who treacherously, in violation of his extended hospitality, killed a number of them ; who, in turn, under their leader, Pretorius, defeated Dingaan and made his brother Panda Chief in his stead, and settled themselves in Natal, masters of the Country. In 1841 the British interfered, and after a vigorous fight overcame the Boers, and in 1843 proclaimed Natal a British Colony. In 1845 it was separated from the Cape, and in 1856 was made a special Colony, with British Governmental Offices and Func- tions ; and such it is to-day. In the progress of our travels, we will note how the Anglo-Saxon has, from time to time, moved across South Africa, and planted the standard of his Empire : one step making another necessary, till, under the claim of justice or self-]3rotection, ousting others of their possessions or their rights, his dominion is supreme. Same Steamship, And at East London, South Africa, Tuesday, June 17, 1890. I was early on Deck to see the South African Shore, presenting much the outlines of which I yesterday spoke. After Breakfast, between nine and ten o’clock, we came to anchor in front of East London, two hundred and sixty miles from D’Urbau. The main portion of the town is seated on the shore, elevated above the water, whilst a considerable portion of its suburbs is off some distance, farther back towards the Noi’theast, and on higher ground. We anchored a mile or two out, and from the Deck had a fine view of the sections of the town — both well-built and respectable in appearance. None of the passengers went ashore ; there was nothing of interest to entice a visit, and the waves were rushing in across the Bar, and dashing their white crests threateningly. We could better see it from STEAMSHIP MEXICAN— EAST LONDON. 407 the Ship. The day was spent in taking cargo — of Wool and Mohair, the chief products of the region : night came whilst thus engaged, and before we started for Port Elizabeth, our stopping place, distant one hundred and thirty-five miles. I amused myself in watching the coming and unloading of the Launches, and the waves in their wild sport upon the Breakwater, and Shore, and Bar ; in looking at the Coast ascending inward to higher and higher ground — grass-grown and patched with areas of forests ; in enjoying the cool breezes, which dissijjated the ideas of heat with which we are apt to associate any and every part of Africa ; and in talking to the passengers. Among them I met with a young German and his Wife, a Lady from Amsterdam, who has lived some years in Kimberley, whither we are bound, and who told me much of the Country and the people, and their experience among them. They are both young and intelligent, and speak English well. The subject- matter of their talk I need not now detail : it will be unfolded in my travels. We are now under way, and during the night or early in the morning will reach our destination. I will, therefore, close this Letter and mail it on the Ship, or take it ashore and mail it there, that it may go on to England by this Steamer and thence hurry to you. You see, the Links are getting fewer and fewer which separate us, and I am following my Letters faster and faster. I am longing more and more for Cape Town, where I hope to meet your messengers. Never on any Tour, I again repeat, have your Letters overtaken or met me so rarely. They will, I trust, gather in Cape Town and in London, and tell me, seriatim, all your doings. I earnestly trust that none of mine have gone astray, and have come to hand in their appointed time, to give you the Log of my long Journey around the World. Taylor must not fail to remember me in love to Cousin Mary, and to our neighbors and inquiring friends. How I should like to look in upon you, and see what you all are doing ! How are the Doctor, and Mary, and Mag? Give them my warmest love, every one. To Charles : I hope, too, all are well with you ; and tell them, with my love, that I have them in my memory, and wish them all good things. With tenderest affection, F. 408 LETTER NO. 18 . Port Elizabeth, South Africa, Phoenix Hotel, Wednesday, June 18, 1890. I simply add, that we are safely ashore and nicely quartered. I will close this now for the Mail, and give you the particulars of our landing in my next. F. [No. 18.] My Dear Mary , — Port Elizabeth, South Africa, Phoenix Hotel, Wednesday, June 18, 1890. Yesterday I finished No. 17 to your Mother, in two Envelopes. Before daylight this morning, we came to anchor in Algoa Bay, your Map will show you, on the South Coast of Africa and in front of Port Elizabeth, out, probably, a half a mile in the Roadstead. Though a City of twelve or fifteen thousand people, there is no Har- bor, any more than at D’Urban or at East London : a portion of the Roadstead simply protected by a Breakwater. Indeed, there cannot be said to be a Harbor along the whole Coast Line from Natal to Cape Town. The Ships cast anchor, and their passengers and cargo are taken off and on by means of Steam Launches and Lighters ; in bad weather both are impossible, and often Sailing Vessels drag their Anchors and are driven helplessly in wreck upon the Shore. I am told, in one Historic storm, not long ago, twenty-three met this dis- aster. You abserve, Algoa Bay opens to the Southeast, and when the wind is from that direction, there is a concentration of breeze and current which, I am told, makes it more dangerous than would be the open Sea. Happily there was none such to-day, and the waters were smooth and quiet, enabling us to pass from the Steamer to the Launch by the usual stairway, without the assistance of the Basket, which could not be done either at D’Urban or East London. PORT ELIZABETH. 409 The City looks well from the water, spread out upon rising ground over a considerable area, with well-built and substantial, some of them large and handsome, structures. Upon a high site in the heart of the town rises a conspicuous Light House, by the side of which is a massive Pyramid of unhewn stone — striking objects from the Steamer ; around them being an open area, without adornment, simply sward, on either side and below which the houses of the City lay. Port Elizabeth contains, it is said, from twelve to fifteen thousand people. A few passengers came ashore with us : some, like ourselves, stop- ping here ; some simply to see the place or to await the departure of the Steamer on Saturday next, and then go on. Among the latter were Mr. and Mrs. Betz, of whom, I think, I have spoken — a young Ger- man with a Dutch wife — both nice people. He is a pleasant, intelli- gent fellow, and has had an eventful life : coming out to South Africa a youth of eighteen, and with a speculative spirit jumped into the maelstrom of the Gold Field and Diamond Fever, and at twenty- three years of age coming out winner to the amount of three hundred thousand dollars ; now, in the whirligig of fortune, flat in money, but full of hope for another venture. He has lived in Kimberley — the Diamond site — and tells me much about it. They will remain ashore during our stay. Coming to the Landing from the Steamer, we saw the wrecks of several vessels strewn along the Shore, confirming the reputation of the Coast for safety. Our baggage was taken to the Custom House ; the Officer did not even touch our traps, but courteously, and to us agreeably, passed them with a simple inquiry as to their contents. By the advice of our young friends, who spoke from experience, we came to this Hotel. We had telegraphed for Rooms from D’Urban, though we had received no reply. The Telegram, however, had come safely and been answered ; and, whilst we had not received the answer, we found our Rooms ready for us — and our experience satis- fies us that we have made no mistake. Its competitor is the Grand, which occupies a high position on a hill ; this is more convenient for going to and fro, being in the heart of the town, and my window, before which I write these lines, overlooking the lower houses and out upon the shipping of the Bay. After Lunch, I went and mailed Letter No. 17, and Maps of South Africa to your Mother and your Uncles Charles and Taylor, and then visited the Offices of the two Steamship Lines to England — the 410 LETTER NO. 18 . Union and the Castle — to make inquiry with regard to our passage from Cape Town thither, when we have done our Tour through the Colonies, We propose to go hence to Kimberley, and thence direct to the Cape by Rail. You see, my long Journey is now tending rapidly homeward — for which neither you nor I am sorry. Toward Sunset, Mr. Nead and I walked about the City. In close vicinity to the Hotel are the Town Hall, the Court House, and the Market House, all imposing structures, built of stone and plastered. We visited the Market House ; but the hour was over, and buyers and sellers and their products gone. In the same building we observed a notice of the Feather Market Holding; we went, but unhappily that, too, was over, and the feathers taken away. I regret this, because they are chiefly the product of the Ostrich Farms, quite a number of which now are carried on in the Cape Colonies — the wild birds having been clean exterminated. Of late, I hear, they have not been profitable — the supply increasing and the demand diminishing — varying with the fashions. But a gentleman told me the sales to-day indicated a revival — the feathers selling for one hundred and ninety dollars a pound. Same City and Hoted, Thursday, June 19, 1890. We went after Breakfast to the Office of the Union S. S. Line to engage passage in the Athenian, an excellent Ship, it is said, sailing from Cape Town on the Ninth of July for Southampton, and selected our State-Rooms. We are thus early, from excessive caution, fearing lest the best Rooms may be engaged ; and the voyage being one of three weeks, we deemed it wiser to be early, rather than too late. We found there Captain Lamer of the Mexican, we had just left, and he helped us to select Rooms, he knowing the Athenian and the route. I ought to mention as an incident of travel, that this morning I ate Penguin Eggs for Breakfast, and found them very good. They are rather larger than Hen Eggs : boiled hard, the yolk is like in appearance, and the white resembles gelatine — all tasting like the Hen Egg, save a slight touch of fishiness, which I don’t think would be observed if not known to be those of a Penguin. We then walked for sevei’al hours about the City, I think well exhausting its chief streets and objects of interest ; going along its business thoroughfares and around those upon the heights and sub- POET ELIZABETH. 411 urbs — the latter thronged with Kafir people and habitations, not built in hut style, but after the fashion of the whites, and similar to those of the Negroes with us in architecture and keep — the former with many handsome mansions and homes. We visited the Pyramid, of which I have spoken, visible from the Ship, and found it a monu- ment to Lady Doncan, who died here seventy years ago, greatly beloved and lamented ; near by is a handsome Light House. In the afternoon, we had intended to take a Carriage and drive ; but determined rather to take Train and run to Uitenhage — pro- nounced Witeuhagee — a small town twenty miles Northwest. Mr. and Mrs. Betz went with us — he having been there before and know- ing the town and intervening Country. > The whole region is rather flat ; uncultivated and thick-set with grass and undergrowths. It seems to be used entirely for pasturage and Ostrich Farms. Numbers of the fine Birds were in sight from the Train, and wandering in freedom over such a wild range, they lose the awkwardness which seems to belong to them in captivity, and become graceful, royal creatures. It was beautiful to see them striding across the fields, sornetimes fast, sometimes leisurely, but with an abandon most attractive and interesting. When we reached Uitenhage, we strolled about the town — simply a South African place — broad, straight streets crossing each other at right angles, with houses spread over magnificent distances. The Sun was hot under his unobstructed beams ; in the shade of the trees, which lined many of the streets, pleasant enough. But I was absorbed with taking in a New Race — the Hottentots — whom I now saw for the first time : they were strongly marked from the Kafirs, who were also about in numbers, but all had been licked into shape by the con- tact and costumes of Civilization. I will postpone comment till I have seen more of them — which I hope to do before leaving the Cape Colonies. In the Evening, I went to the Skating Rink near by, to see the people gathered there ; the young men and ladies, and the boys and girls were rolling over the floor — some awkwardly, some gracefully — but in no respect different from what they did in our town a few years ago ; and their pleasure in it and that of the spectators, I opine, will last about as long. 412 LETTER NO. 18 . Grahamstown, South Africa, Railway Hotel, Friday, June 20, 1890. To-day we ran up to Grahamstown by Rail — distant from Port Elizabeth one hundred and six miles. We left at nine o’clock and reached here in the afternoon at half-past five. We parted from our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Betz, who go on to Cape Town in the Steamer Mexican to-morrow, where we expect to see them again on our arrival there. He gave us Letters to several of his friends in Kimberley, requesting them to show us the curiosities in that place. The Station Agent in Port Elizabeth was exceedingly courteous, and said he would secure us a whole compartment to ourselves, that our trip might be the more pleasant ; and sure enough, when we arrived at the Train this morning he conducted us to the car, which we found marked Reserved,’’ and gave orders, that we must not be intruded upon — and we were not, during the whole journey. The Hotel Proprietor fixed us up a lunch, and a good one, which we enjoyed whilst we travelled. Grahamstown, you observe, is Northeast of Port Elizabeth — Uiten- hage is Northwest. To-day we rounded Algoa Bay, and soon began to ascend. Grahamstown is seventeen hundred and twenty-six feet above the level of the Sea, and at many points the grade is heavy and most perceptible. The Country for miles — more than half the way — is thick-set with scrub; sometimes extending in level plains to the Mountains — now nigh, now far — without an acre scarcely in culti- vation. After a while a few patches of Indian Corn or Mealies appeared, but of scanty growth. After leaving this region and ascend- ing more rapidly the scrub grew less, and extended areas came in view, embracing plain and Mountain, sometimes thick-set in growths, some- times without trees and covered with grass, or of bare rock. In the latter part of our ride the views were more and more extended, and, aided by a fine Sunset, the Landscape became uncommonly striking, especially Grahamstown and vicinity, seated in a great cusp, sur- rounded by Mountains, and rising at least into the grand. The whole range of Country from Port Elizabeth to this place, for fertility and productiveness, does not impress me favorably — quite the reverse — and scarce any of it has been reduced to cultivation : it PORT ELIZABETH TO GRAHAMSTOWN. 413 appearing to be almost entirely used for pasturage. We saw large flocks of Sheep and Angora Goats, and herds of Cattle — but especially the whole, a range for the Ostriches, hundreds of which we saw here and there over the entire distance. The more I see of the Regal Bird, the more impressed I am with his beauty, when in good kelter and wandering over a range suitable to his size and movements. The awkwardness which seems to attend him in confinement disappears, and with arched neck assuming graceful curves appropriate to the slowness or rapidity of his gait, and the facile and admirable use he makes of his wings, hanging, when lifted, in festoons of feathers, and aiding him in his speed, is one of the most attractive exhibitions I have witnessed in Nature. They are generally black, with marks of white, or of altogether a lead color. Often they would be wandering alone, seemingly satisfied with their solitariness — often in gangs — they and the Horses and the Cattle and the Sheep and Angora Goats together — apparently a happy family. The Farmers sometimes hatch the eggs artificially with incubators ; sometimes allow the Birds to do it, the male and female alternating in that domestic duty, and alter- nately, also, caring for the young — for he is a gallant gentleman. They are generally harmless ; but, now and then, what they call a wild one, is very vicious and dangerous, or when setting or tending their young, if disturbed, will attack the disturber, and with what is called a kick — rather a sidelong paw — will, with their sharp toe, inflict a mortal wound. The Proprietor of the Phoenix had telegraphed for Rooms, and when we reached the Station we were met with a Carriage and con- ducted here, where we were speedily and comfortably quartered. After we had taken Dinner, it was too late to see anything of the town, for night falls in these Latitudes at this season early, there being no twilight, and by six o’clock has superseded the day ; and when the Sun goes and the Stars come, at this altitude, a delightful and bracing coolness comes with them. They tell me Grahamstown is a healthy, pleasant spot at all seasons ; and from its site, I am not sur- prised to hear it. Port Elizabeth, Phoenix Hotel, Saturday, June 21, 1890. Here I am, safe back again in my Chamber at the Phoenix. The Proprietor was kind enough to retain our Rooms and heavy baggage for us, making no charge. 414 LETTER NO. 18 . In Grahamstown, before Breakfast this morning, I walked to the Market Place, and in doing so pedestrianized several of the principal streets of the town. It is well-built, containing good business houses and residences, and Public Buildings of respectable import; the Town Hall, several Churches, and the Tower of the projected Established Church of England, show conspicuously from the heights when entering the town. It contains, I am told, seven or eight thousand people. The Market presented nothing of especial interest; the Market House is small, surrounded by a large open Square upon the suburbs of the town. In the former, I saw a considerable array of products much like our own in kind, together with some tropical or semi-trop- ical fruits and vegetables, but nearly all the buyers and sellers were Whites — very few of the aborigines of the Country — and, upon in- quiry, I learned they did little cultivation, even of vegetables, on their own account. But the Market Square was full of Wagons and their long teams of Oxen — from twelve to sixteen and eighteen — almost invariably in charge of the Kafirs and Hottentots : one man or boy leading the team with a rope, and another at the wheel with his long whip. They were harnessed with the yoke like those with us. The Hottentot is said to be especially expert in managing the ox team. The wagons are large and heavy, it is true, but four of our oxen could readily move any load I saw ; but, I am told, the Roads are, in the rainy season, bad, and the oxen lighter than ours, grass fed, and the Driver loves the show he makes with his long team. The wagons are well made, mostly in this Country, and kept in good repair, being much used in travelling through the interior of the Country — though the Rail and Horse Coach are rapidly superseding them, as they have long since done in our own Country across the Plains, My young friends, Betz and his wife, have had much experience in this mode of travel through the Orange Free State and the Ti’ansvaal — regions farther North — moving for many days, outspanning or unhitching at night and sleeping in the wagon ; inspanning or hitching up in the morning and moving on. The Hottentots and the Kafirs are both here — the latter called the natives, though it seems to me an improper designation, for the true home of the former is farther East and North. The Kafirs were the more recently conquered on the sweeping Eastward of the White Colonial tide. The Hottentots inhabited this region and Westward, GRAHAMSTOWN. 415 towards and about the Cape of Good Hope. When the Dutch — after- wards called Boers — came, finding the Hottentots mixed with them, which white stx'eak is to-day most pronounced and distinguishable — much more so than the Kafirs, who are of more recent conquest. The Hottentots one sees here are unmistakeable; but the long presence of the White man among them has obliterated the aboriginal customs and costumes which we found existing among the Kafirs in Natal. Travelling farther inward, we may come across the Hottentot nearer to his Native State — and across the Boers, too, with the modes of life and characteristics which have made him an Historic figure in South Africa. After Breakfast, we took a nice two-horse Carriage and Driver and drove through and around the town. By an ascending Eoad, we mounted the heights and had an excellent view of the town below us, now embowered in trees, all of which nearly were of foreign impor- tation, of various species, but chiefly Blue Gums or Eucalypti, which grow well, and the Mountains around being bare of such vegetation, make the town look like an Oasis, aud give it, by contrast, a greater repu,tation for beauty than its own merits fully justify. The Road is well laid out and graded, and rounding the Mountain upon which it is located, uncommonly fine Landscapes open : on one side, the town with its outlying suburbs and beyond the lofty Ranges ; on the other. Mountain after Mountain, getting lower and lower, till at last, Southward, thirty miles or more away, the Ocean and the Sky join in undistinguishable Blue. Off to the Northeast, the Range of Mountains sweep, dividing Natal from the Orange Free State and Basuto Land, which we saw grandly on our trip to Lady- smith — Cathkin, the loftiest of its Peaks, conspicuous, rising more than ten thousand feet in height. It was a scene which well repaid us. We saw upon the Road a number of convicts at work — Kafirs and Hottentots, which by their phiz could be readily distinguished from each other — and visited the Reservoir that supplies the town abund- antly with good water, around which trees .have been planted, grown into shady Groves, where, now and then, the people of Grahamstown come with bands of music and have a quiet or jolly time; and thence through the Garden, merely begun, but promising to be an ornament to the City, when it grows. Coming up from Port Elizabeth, and on our ride to-day, we saw Ant Hills innumerable, covering square miles of Country, and inter- 416 LETTER NO. 18 . esting, like those which engaged our attention in Natal. The Driver gave us the same account we have hitherto had — that they are harm- less to tlie herdsman and tiller of the soil. But other much smaller hillocks attracted our notice, which the Driver said were Mole Hills, much more noxious things : the architects and inhabitants destroying vegetation, and well worthy of the anathemas they receive. He, also, in communicative mood, told me what he knew about the Hottentots and Kafirs, the latter of whom he called natives, and their distinguish- ing characteristics. Simply gathering information now about them, I thanked him, and treasured up his words. My old Friend Mr. Layard, you remember, gave me a Letter to his friend Dr. Atherstoue, who resides in Grahamstown. I am not, you know, in the habit of delivering such Letters ; but it contained friendly words and information about himself and his doings, and I thought ought to reach Dr. Atherstone’s hands. I, therefore, made the Driver take us there. I found his house, a cozy cottage filled with things which mark the man of culture. I saw several Ladies, among them his Grand-daughter, who told me the Doctor is a mem- ber of the Colonial Parliament now meeting in Cape Town, and is there at present upon his duties ; and she regretted, and knew he would, not meeting me. Upon reflection, I determined to keep the Letter till my arrival in Cape Town ; probably, I will make myself known to him there. At eleven o’clock we were at the Station with our baggage, and a few minutes thereafter were in a compartment to ourselves and rolling back to Port Elizabeth. I will not repeat in words our journey up ; I observed more particularly the various growths in sight along the way — many of them I am not Botanist enough to even call by name ; the Mimosa was there in force, and other similar stunted or bunchy specimens covering vast areas with thickets and jungles, whence the wild beasts have been pretty well killed or driven Northward before the White man, into wilder haunts, but where numerous Deer of various species still find cover and abound, and feathered game. Our Proprietor here, with some friends, brought home half a dozen Bucks, of which we had the benefit to-night at Dinner. Moss hung on some of the trees : but not to compare with that which the Live Oak of our Southern States waves from its widespread, brawny arms, like Imperial streamers; Cacti of several kinds attracted us, one species, especially, like a bundle of well-turned clubs, some PORT ELIZABETH. 417 like the Prickly Pear, but none to rival the marvellous caprice and beauty of New Mexico, where, among many other quaint forms, they rose over the barren scene with the majesty and grace of Classic columns. Some of the plants, covering many acres, were strikingly similar to the Sage Bush, which is a part of the Landscape that makes our Western plains phenomenal ; maybe, it is the same. Two young Englishmen entered our compartment at the Kimberley Junction; one, a Mr. Heinecke, he informed me, who has lived several years in the United States and is travelling in behalf of some houses there, in the Agricultural Implement business; the other, a Preacher in the Established Church of England, and a Professor of the Classics in the University at Grahamstown — Mr. Jenkins. We had much talk during our ride, I directing it to their experiences in the regions of South Africa. When we arrived, about half-past six o’clock, at the Station, our Proprietor, Mr. George, met and escorted us to the Hotel — Mr. Jen- kins coming with us ; Mr. Heinecke going to the Club, where he had engaged quarters. Thus ended our pleasant Excursion to Grahamstown. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, June 22, 1890. This has been a day of rest : I spent the morning in my Boom — Africa ‘‘ shut out ” — and gathered you all about me in this far distant Country. I knew that you had no idea where I was, or what about ; I could imagine where you were, and what a-doing on the Sabbath day. From my Chamber window I could look out upon Algoa Bay and see the Ship on which I have already engaged passage from Cape Town to England ; and am not sorry that I am soon to finish the last long links in the girdling chain, and be with you in the dear Old Home once more. In the aftei’noon, we walked to the Park and Garden, in the suburbs, at the terminus of a street called White’s Road, on which most of the handsome residences are located, enjoying the pleasant temperature, the throngs of people engaged in the same recreation, and from the elevation, admiring the outlook over the town below and the Bay and the Ships beyond. The Garden is a promising affair, like all such places in the New Colonies, wherever you may find them. No 27 418 LETTER NO. 18 . sooner do they found a town, than they plant beside or near it a breathing place for its inhabitants. We then returned and walked along the water wall, and enjoyed the melody of the waves, till the Stars and the young Moon came out. At Same City and Hotel, And on Train from Port Elizabeth to Kimberley, Monday., June 23, 1890. After Breakfast, we went to see the Ostrich Feather Market, held not far from the Hotel, in the Hall where we visited the Skating Pink the other night. The Feathers were arranged on long tempo- rary tables extending the length of the room, and were of various kinds and qualities. The Auctioneer and the buyers walked through in order, and they were sold with wonderful speed — beyond my ability to follow in the call. When knocked down, they were trans- ferred by Natives to the Scales and weighed in another part of the Hall. It was both quiet and rapid work. There has been for some time a depression in the prices, and the Ostrich Farmer feared his occupation was gone; but, lately, for reasons unaccountable, there has been a boom in the Feather field, and the prices have been phenome- nally high. Were the hapless Eugenie upon the Throne, it might find a solution in a fashion freak of hers. But Eugenie has, ’tis pity for her, met the fate of many a Queen before ; and who has succeeded her as the “ Glass of Fashion and the Mould of Form ? ” Mr. Nead and I then went in a Tug to the Steamship Athenian, anchored in the Bay, to see the Rooms we had chosen for our voyage in her. They were comfortable and good. She steams on upon her beat to Delagoa Bay, beyond Natal, this afternoon, and returning thence, we will catch her in Cape Town, and by her reach Old Eng- land — a long journey of six thousand miles across the Tropics and the Line — but by that much nearer Home ! In the meantime, we will run by Rail to Kimberley, and thence again by Rail to meet the Ship. Returning in the Tug, we visited the Wine Vaults in the basement of the building where we saw the Feathers, and were much entertained. The Gentleman in charge showed us through, and pointing out to us the tuns and other vessels filled with wine, told us all was of the Vintage of the Cape Colonies, which were growing from year to year PORT ELIZABETH. 419 in the product and the sale. He kindly gave us specimens, that we might test the virtues of his varieties — Constantia, Sherry, Port, and a combination of his own, rivalling, to my unpracticed fancy, and tasting not unlike the famous Chartreuse. The whole belongs to the Port Elizabeth Wine Association ; the Vaults are rented from the City. In another part of the big Building, we found the Museum — not a large collection, but, like such a number of similar Institutions I have visited in these New Countries, highly creditable to the place and intelligence and culture of the people. I was especially interested in a fine specimen of the Mamba Snake, said to be the most venomous and dangerous of the reptiles of South Africa, being large and rapid in its movements, and very vicious, but a graceful looking beast withal; and in the number of specimens of the Bok or Deer — Bok being the Dutch Buck : the Spring Bok, the Stein Bok, the Bush Bok, the Gry Bok, the Blaaw (Blue) Bok, the Clip Springer, the Duiker Bok, the Rhee Bok, the Hartebeeste, the Water Bok, the Gun Bok, the Koodoo, the Eland; all are small, except the Koodoo, which is the size of a Stag, and the Eland the size of and not unlike a large Ox in shape, but all specially marked by beautiful curved and variedly twisted horns. Besides these, the Superintendent said, tliere were many other species of Boks still surviving in the Colonies, whose names he could not at once recall, and even if he could, I Avould not bother you with a repetition. We then rummaged through a Curio Shop ; but I could find nothing worth taking home characteristic of the Country and the aborigines, which I have not already gathered. We had arranged with the Station Master about our compartment on the Train to Kimberley, who had promised that he would reserve one for us through ; when we went to the Depot at fifteen minutes after seven, we found that promise fulfilled and the compartment ready for us, of which we took possession. The Cars are for Sleep- ing, but no bed clothes are furnished. One side is laid ofiF in sections, which are reached by an Aisle or Alley on the other. There are two broad leather-covered seats, and two above, which can be let down or shut up at pleasure. On these we laid down, covering ourselves with our wraps and blankets, and having the whole compartment to our- selves, anticipated a comfortable night. It was very kind in the Officer thus courteously and considerately to treat us. 420 LETTER NO. IS. I ought to mention, that during the afternoon the Mayor of Port Elizabeth, James Buster, Esq., called to see us, to extend to us the courtesies of his position and to offer to do anything in his power to make our stay profitable and pleasant. He had just been informed of our presence in the City, and regretted he had not known it sooner. He is a burly-hearted Englishman, the stiffness and provincialism shaken out of him by long residence abroad, and contact with various peoples. He has lived here many years and grown into wealth with the Colony. Of course, we did not allow him to surpass us in civ- ility ; but expressed our sorrow, that time did not permit us to accept the tenders of hospitality — I, secretly, very glad. The Agent of the Union Steamship Line, also, called to offer his services to render in any way in his power our voyage pleasant ; and again met us at the Station, and brought us Magazines and Papers to beguile the tedium of the long journey to Kimberley. Kimberley, Griqua Land West, South Africa, Grand Hotel, Tuesday, June 24, 1890. The anticipated quiet possession of our compartment was realized ; and no one disturbed us either last night or to-day. We came through to Kimberley in quiet enjoyment — taking our meals, also, in it, fur- nished from a kitchen-car attached. This you will, doubtless, be sur- prised to hear, coming from this far interior of South Africa, only a few years ago the land of the Wild Beast, the Bushmen, the Kafir, and the Hottentot. But the material forces which have made our Civili- zation, can pick it up, and, with the boasted power of Archimedes’ Lever, move the World. During the night, we passed to the Grahamstown Junction, through the same Country we traversed on our visit to that place, and about which I have already written enough; with my fine capacity for sleep, I lost no time. Early in the morning, with daylight, having crossed the Snow Bergen and Winterbergen Range we were two hun- dred miles on our way, and North of Cradock, on the Plain advancing to the Zum Bergen and the Storm Bergen Range, which lifted itself in many fantastic peaks and summits — the level Country seeming to me to be an Eastern fringe or outskirt of the Great Barren Desert, which occupies a large share of South Africa’s Territory and History, PORT ELIZABETH TO KIMBERLEY. 421 and the main belt of which we will cross diagonally on our travel from Kimberley to Cape Town. No sign, of cultivation or fertility appeared, either on Plain or Mountain — only stunted grass or scrub, or savage rocks, fixed or loose. The Mountains were interesting in their inhospitable yet picturesque ruggedness and poverty. In their midst a fog came down upon and around us, with the suddenness of a shadow, and lasting for half an hour or thereabouts, as suddenly drifted away. Crossing the Range, and still ascending, as we had been doing more or less continuously, we reached another of the Plateaus, into which the whole of South Africa is divided. Here the Country in its rise opens widely, the Mountains in general receding across the vast Plateau, leaving hither and thither remembrances of every con- ceivable shape ; now, finely formed and proportioned cones ; now, jagged buttes; now, clumps of all sorts of figures — many times in truncated elevations of table or Mesa shapes, of which, from what I have read, I think I will find an admirable sample in the Table Mountain at the Cape. But all of every size and figure and degree, whether standing alone upon the plain, or letting down into it, or bounding the horizon, or sinking far off below it — like the plain itself without the vestige of a tree, any more than, you remember, I saw in the Andean Country of Peru : simply yellow-tufted grass or scrub, or wretched-looking rock, or naked earth or sand ; yet, the clear, pure atmosphere throwing over the land and sky a vivid brightness that made the whole a vision of beauty : the like of which, you remem- ber, in our own New Mexico charmed me, though a scene of deso- lation. In many places the Ant Hills covered the Country far and near, similar to those of which I have written elsewhere in South African regions. We saw in the earlier part of the day some Ostriches, but not nearly the number we observed on our trip to Grahamstown. We saw, too, flocks of Goats and Sheep, and some herds of Cattle ; but the sorry-looking gi'ass and scrub could hardly have furnished an abundant pasture. During the hours of daylight, I think I noticed only two areas of cultivated ground, and they barely embracing to- gether a hundred acres. The habitations of the Natives were sorrier than the Kafir Kraals we visited in Natal — mere excuses for a hut, patched of all sorts of material, not, by any means, enough to turn the wind and rain. Where those lived who owned the Stations or 422 LETTER NO. 18 . Ranges to whfch the stock belonged, there was no evidence along the Road. At De Aar, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Port Eliza- beth, we came to the Junction of the Road to Cape Town, and met the downward Train, and about Sunset crossed the Orange or Nu Garieb River on a long Iron Bridge. The water was low, but flowed in a deep, broad channel, showing that in flood, this greatest River of South Africa is worthy of its name. Later on we crossed the Modder, an affluent of the Vaal : it, in turn, the main affluent of the Orange. It was half-past eight when we arrived, and in these Latitudes at this season, more than two hours after dark. But we were not in- commoded. Having telegraphed for Rooms, the Proprietor met us, and we were brought to the Hotel in a Carriage, and soon were quartered comfortably. Kimberley is four hundred and eighty-five miles from Port Eliza- beth, and a little more than four thousand feet above the Sea. But the Sky was cloudless all day, and the atmosphere cool, and having the compartment to ourselves, the journey was not fatiguing. Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, June 25, 1890. My Chamber window opens upon the Market Square. Early in the morning, I observed, it was full of wagons, they and their long teams of oxen, with their phenomenally long and widespread horns, quite filling the large area with vehicles, and animals, and buyers, and sellers, and their commodities ; a busy crowd. I went out and moved amongst them. I found the Market consisted of vegetables, meats, wood of slender growth done up in bundles, Indian Corn, Kafir Corn, wool, hides, and furniture — second hand and new. The wagons, I observed, were generally managed by Natives — mostly Hottentots — though of the colored people, the Kafirs were the most numerous. The business was almost altogether done by whites. During the morning, it showered slightly and settled the dust, which before was disagreeable : the soil on which the town is built being pulverulent, and some of it of a reddish hue, reminding me of what Albemarle County can do, when she tries, in the articles of dust and mud. After Breakfast, we walked about the City. It claims twenty to thirty thousand people — brought hither by the Diamond KIMBERLEY. 423 mines, said to be the lai’gest and finest ever discovered on the earth. In 1869, a Dutchman purchased a stone from a Griqua native for four hundred pounds — two thousand dollars — and at once sold it for ten thousand pounds — fifty thousand dollars. It was called the Star of South Africa, and is now the property of the Countess of Dudley, and valued at twenty-five thousand pounds — one hundred and twenty thousand dollars — and is the rival of the most splendid Jewels that adorn the Crowns of European Monarchs. The fame of the great Diamond brought a rush of people to this region in 1870-71 ; and passing thi’ough the strifes and struggles and hardships which beset the pathway of those who seek for Gold and Silver and Precious Stones, this City of Kimberley is the result. We found the town what we anticipated — a suddenly constructed affair — the houses mainly built of corrugated Iron, though there were not a few of brick and stone, or brick plastered. The streets have not been laid out with any regularity, like many of the new places one comes across now-a-days : but rather like the old Cities were, according to the contour of the ground in their normal growth, or the demands for defence against foreign enemies, or along paths which the founders made when they went afield, or those of the sheep and cattle on their wanderings to and fro. Thus was Kimberley planned : the streets meeting and crossing each other at every conceivable angle — indicating that the town was added to from time to time according to the demands of a rapidly growing population, without any regard to regularity or beauty. Some of the houses and shops and stores indi- cate wealth — certainly the show of it ; but that may be only the un- healthy excitement and glitter which ever attend the advent of the Gold and Jewel fever. We visited a Curio Shop, and I bought a Hottentot and, also, a Bushman Bow and several Arrows, to take home wdth me : the former is quite large and carefully wrapped with hide, and the arrows tipped and barbed with steel, the shafts of reed or bamboo; the latter a small affair, the arrows armed with bone and poisoned. The ugly, insignificant Bushmen are a low and venomous set, and use poison on the weapons, rather than force, to kill both their enemies and their game. I had the arrows carefully wrapped in canvass, and put in a native quiver, that no injuiy could result to anyone handling them. Thus, I now have the peculiar weapons of all the aborigines, in all the Countries I have visited upon this Tour. 424 LETTER NO. 18 . We had a Letter of Introduction from our young friend Betz to Mr. Gardner Williams, Manager of the De Beers Consolidated Dia- mond Company. We went to the Office of the De Beers, and were introduced to Mr. Williams, who received us most cordially. I learned he was from California, and Consular Agent of the United States here, and we were soon in friendly accord. He showed us in the Office great numbers of Diamonds of various sizes and values, and one, uncut, larger than the Koohinoor which shines in the Crown of the British Empire ; and made an engagement with him to conduct us through the mines and works to-morrow, inviting us to dine with him and his family thereafter. This latter I declined, giving him my stereotyped reason. Near by his Office, is the Kimberley or Central Mine — the one first discovered and used. It is now an immense funnel-shaped hole, not unlike the Crater of a Volcano. The works here are temporarily stopped, an accident in the shaft having occurred, and operations postponed for repairs. The digging upon the site making a deep conical cavity, and the sides from time to time giving way, we have this huge cavity, of which I have spoken, situated right in or upon the suburbs of the town. To-morrow we will understand, by personal inspection, better the modus operandi of gathering the precious things. Whilst at Mr. Williams’ Office, he introduced us to Mr. Seymour, of the family of Governor Horatio, a young gentleman from the State of New York, connected with the company as Mechanical Engineer. He and his wife, recently married, are boarding at the same Hotel with ourselves, and nice people they seem to be. He, too, tendered his services in any way to show us the objects of interest; thus, you see, with my usual good fortune, I am greatly favored. In the afternoon, Mr. Nead and I again wandered about the town, prospecting the objects of interest, in its course witnessing a Tennis game and a Football on the Rugby plan, which afforded us amuse- ment for a half hour or thereabouts ; they were between rival com- panies of the young men of Kimberley, and well done. A pleasant talk with Mr. Seymour and his wife, after Dinner, ended the day. KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND MINES. 425 Same City and Hotel, Thursday, June 26, 1890. This has been a profitable and interesting day, visiting the great De Beers Diamond Mine. We drove to the spot, a mile or two distant, in a spring two-wheel Dog Cart, drawn by two excellent horses, the tongue sustained by straps passing over the horses’ necks near the shoulder — a delightful conveyance, containing four seats, one by the driver, and two behind, with a falling top. We were met by Mr. Williams, who had made aiTangements for our thorough inspection of the enterprise, and all things were ready. The Chief Operator was there, to go with us down the shaft and con- duct us through. Mrs. Nead was afraid to attempt the descent, and equally afraid for her husband to go. I was not. There were gar- ments ready for us, and I changed my coat and put on an old slouch hat, a pair of high gum boots, and with my Guide, getting into a rough box, we were, by a steam cable, let down an incline to a depth of seven hundred feet below the surface of the earth, lighted at sevei’al landing places by electricity. The run was on an excellent railway, and smooth enough. Upon reaching the bottom of the Mine, we walked along the tun- nels — some sustained by the rock through which it had been dug, some by heavy timbers, trams laid through them all, on which iron trucks conveyed the Diamond earth to the spot where we landed, whence it was carried, also, by steam cable, on another incline to the surface of the ground above. The original find here was not unlike that of the Kimberley or Central Mine of which I yesterday spoke, and the work in it produced the same result — an immense funnel- shaped, crater-like depression, in which, by the constantly falling in of the sides, it became unsafe longer to carry on operations. Hence, the shaft was sunk down some distance otf, which we descended, and from its bottom, galleries or tunnels were carried to the Diamonds, below the depression just spoken of. From the main drift, side tunnels of a similar character are dug. Thus, probably, in visiting them we made a mile of distance. The Diamonds are hid away in a bluish earth and stone, which is exca- vated and conveyed by the trams to the mouth of the Mine. The 426 LETTER NO. 18 . walk was through mud and slush, and I would have been in a sorry condition very soon but for the old coat and hat and the indispensable gum boots. Nearly all the workmen were half or quite naked Kafirs, who, by the light of the electricity or the candles carried by my Guide, were a ghastly-looking crew; but, nevertheless, a strong, fine lot, and their ugly, amiable faces shone with sweat and good nature. There were a few white men, also, and a few Hottentots, and one little Bushman — a young chap, who, though well formed, as his scant clothing showed, looked modest and retiring wdien my Guide pointed him out to me. Returning by the incline to the light of the Sun again, I found Mr. Williams and my friends waiting for me. He showed us how the earth and stone brought from below were taken on trucks or horse trams to open fields and spread out broadcast upon level and smoothed out areas, subjected to the action of the weather, by which it was dis- integrated into loose material. The Diamonds are found mixed scatteringly through a bluish earth, which sometimes assumes the consistency of stone — not unlike in appearance our blue lime stone. This needs no breaking, but when exposed in thick layers to the sun and rain, disintegrates, and surrenders its precious contents. To further facilitate their extraction, a harrow is after a while run over the field and then a roller, further reducing the rock to loose stuff. It is then carried to the Washers — all propelled by steam — and passed through water in cylinders and basins : the heavier material not yet thoroughly disintegrated is taken back to the field and again exposed — the lighter is thoroughly sifted, and in passing through cylinders of various sized openings, and by its own specific gravity, the Diamond-bearing earth is winnowed into four or five different sizes and thoroughly examined, and the Jewels extracted by hand. This is whilst the material is wet from the washers. When dry, it is submitted to another examination, generally, I observed, Negro convicts, who are allowed a per cent of all they find — which is so profitable, that many of them, when their term of imprisonment expires, have a considerable sum to their credit. The examination takes place on tables, at which the men sit or stand, and with a piece of sharpened iron like a blade, spread out the rough material, and the Diamond is easily detected by its bright gleam. Of course, many are stolen, and never recovered ; but by the strict vigilance and detective system, fewer are stolen than formerly, and KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND MINES. 427 many are recovered. The thief sometimes cuts his flesh and buries the Jewel in the wound ; sometimes hides it in his hair or scant clothing : often swallows it. Different modes have been adopted for the detection of the thief and the recovery of the stolen treasure — the last, undergoing medical treatment, and under it surrendei’ing the hid treasure whether he wants to or not. Mr. Williams said he had known a Kafir swallow a Diamond large as the end of his thumb, and jagged and rough, risking his life in the venture — but both he and the Diamond saved by the efBcacy of a cathartic. The theory of the Scientist with regard to the formation of the Diamond is, that it is the result of Volcanic forces — Carbonic Acid consolidated by enormous heat and pressure ; and they think these Finds confirm their theory. They seem to be in perpendicular columns, as it were, the central action of Volcanic agencies : for the stones are found not to diminish, maybe to increase, in size and number with the descent into the shaft. Hence, the owners have hope, that their investment will not lessen in value, nor be exhausted, but rather grow as they penetrate deeper towards the earth’s central fires. Certainly, to this time, they have had no cause of apprehension. This is the greatest Diamond Find the World has ever known — by far. There are four mines at present uncovered : the Kimberley, the Du Toitspan, the De Beers, and the Bultfonteiu. Kimberley was the first, and the others followed in sequence — all in easy reach of each other. The land is owned by the Government, and the Com- pany operating the Mines pays a ground rent, amounting to about fifteen dollars per acre a year. They were in the hands of separate individuals and companies, but recently the De Beers has bought the entire or controlling interest in all of them, and the whole concern, with the exception of a few individuals who would not sell, is operated under the name of the De Beers Consolidated Company, Limited — assuming the name of the old Farmer who owned the Land on which the Mines were discovered. This Company has the monopoly, therefore, of the mining of Dia- monds in South Africa, and controls the output, and hence, by virtue of its enormous yield, the Market of the World. It now employs about eight thousand men, of whom an average of a hundred are killed in the works annually. Its Capital is nearly four millions of Pounds — twenty millions of dollars — the shares at five Pounds par value. The shares are selling for seventeen, so that at market value 428 LETTER NO. 18 . the Company represents an investment of seventy to eighty millions of dollars. One third of the Diamonds gathered are sold in the United States. Mr. Williams, though born at Saginaw, Michigan, and hail- ing from California, was operating in the Transvaal ; but accepting service here, and being instrumental in securing Capital in London and Europe for the consolidation, and successful and efficient, is now the Superintendent — a responsible and, I should think, a handsome and lucrative position. Taking me in his own Cart, and my friends retaining the one we hired, he drove us about the works, and when we had finished our investigations there, to Kenilworth, a village for the White operatives, built by the Company, after the fashion of Pullman, near Chicago, and Saltaire in Yorkshire, England, of which I told you something on my First and Second Tours. Kenilworth is built of brick — houses for families and single men — a Boarding House for the latter — a Club House, with Library and Reading Room ; Mr. W. thinks a good investment, both for the Company and the workmen. It is within easy distance of the Mine, on part of a large tract of many thousand acres of land bought from the Government by the Company. The site of the Mine, however, is still owned by the Government, for which the Company, as I have said, pays rent, being regarded by the Governmental Authorities as a good investment. We then drove back to the Hotel; thus ending our pleasant and instructive visit to one of the most remarkable Industries on the Globe. Same City and Hotel, Friday, June 27, 1890. To-day, I simply walked about the City, observing its lay and its people. In my stroll, I passed again the huge cavity of the Kimberley or Central Mine, and wondered how it had been made by the removal and sifting of every handful of its earth, in the greedy search for gain ; how many men had found graves therein, whose names were scarcelv known in their obscurity, and whose deaths were unrecorded ! Yesterday, two Kafirs were killed by falling rocks — but what of that? — how many more have lost their character and fortune, and ultimately their lives, in gambling in its contents! Near its cavernous mouth are shops, about which excited crowds from the whole World KIMBERLEY. 429 are gathered, speculating in its glittering yield — which, if it should fail, would send consternation among them, and convert the busy City they have built into a wretched waste and ruin. Silver and Gold and Diamond Mines do not yield happiness and contentment with their precious contents, nor make those “men, high-minded men, who constitute a State.” Same City and Hotel, Saturday, June 28, 1890. We met at Breakfast a gentleman by the name of George F. Wolfe, who has once resided in our Country. He is an Englishman, and has spent most of his life abroad, engaged, I infer, in speculation, and his experiences have rubbed off the native provincialism of the little Island and made him broad-minded and agreeable — as I have found it nearly always does the British gentleman. We had much agree- able talk about his Country and mine, and about this South African region, where he has resided and travelled in its various parts, and at one time represented Kimberley in the Parliament of the Cape Colonies. We cannot get away till next Tuesday morning, there being only one Express Sleeping-Car Train a week from this place to Cape Town. Monday would be an idle day, unless we could find some mode of utilizing it outside of Kimberley ; and the Railroad being finished nearly fifty miles beyond. Northward, though not open for passengers and traffic, we determined, if possible, to get permission to go thus far, on any Train that might be running. This will enable me to see more of the Country, and utilize what would otherwise be wasted time. Mr. Wolfe said he knew Mr. Dalton, the Chief Engineer, very well, and would give us a Letter, requesting him to pass us over the Road, and was quite sure he would gladly comply. Mr. Nead and I, after Breakfast, went to the Station and saw the Station Master with regard to our compartment next Tuesday, who said he would reserve one for our especial use, as we had coming up ; and telling him we wanted to see Mr. Dalton, and our object, offered to go with and show us his residence, some distance off. We found him in, and receiving us courteously, cheerfully gave us the pass for four — we having invited Mrs. Seymour to join us in the expedition, her husband, by reason of his engagements, being unable to go. He said, also, if possible, he would accompany and render us all the help 430 LETTER NO. 18 . in his power to make the trip profitable and pleasant. This was very kind. In the afternoon, we, together with Mrs. Seymour, whom we invited to join us, visited the Du Toitspan and Bultfontein — pro- nounced Bultfonteen — Mines, three miles distant by Tram. We preferred this to Carriage, the Car being open, and affording us an excellent view of the surroundings. In reaching the objects of our trip, we passed through the towns of Beaconsfield and Du Toitspan — the Mines being at the farther end of the latter. The towns themselves run into each other, as the suburbs of Kim- berley extend into those of Beaconsfield, the three being in close con- tiguity. They are built upon a Plain, wide extending beyond their site, — of red earth, from which adobe bricks have been made, that constitute most of the fences and buildings of both towns — often they are plastered Avith the same red mud ; the other houses are constructed of burnt brick and corrugated iron. In their plan they are entirely different from Kimberley : the streets being wide and cutting each other at right angles, which — the houses being generally of only one story and spread out over a large area — gives the place a very flat appearance ; and with scant trees and shrubbery, they can hardly be called handsome toAvns. The number of inhabitants, when the houses were occupied, claimed to be from ten to twelve thousand : a spon- taneous mining population, dependent absolutely for existence upon the contents of the Crater-shaped holes in the ground upon their suburbs. Leaving the Car, we walked to the Mines, not far from each other. They are both immense cavities, like Kimberley : the Bultfontein is especially like it in the regularity of its funnel formation ; the Du Toitspan is larger than either in area, being cresent-shaped and equally deep. The mining in both is mainly surface, and from their rims the workmen can be seen, working far beloAV and sending the earth, when dug, to the ground above by iron buckets carried on steam wire cables and then disposed of as described at the De Beers. This afternoon there were not many at work, and the Mines emptied ; the streets were full, employed in what usually occupies the Kafirs when enjoying themselves most — gabbling, laughing, lounging, drinking, and lapsing more and more into the worthless. The effect of a cessation of work upon the towns, their outgrowth, has been seriously felt. The De Beers Company owns the largest It KIMBERLEY— DIAMOND MINES. 431 interest in both ; other smaller interests, I have before remarked, are held by Companies and individuals. The latter continue to operate ; the former have shut down for some time, thus controlling the Mar- ket in Diamonds by diminished supply. The effect is the dismissal of many hundreds of hands, and the withdrawal of their expenditures. The result has been, of course, most disastrous to the towns in the depreciation of values, resulting in great panic and loss. Many of the houses are vacant, and much property for sale, and Beaconsfield and Du Toitspan are in a crisis. Should the Diamonds fail, or the Mines greatly diminish in out- put, tliose towns and Kimberly would soon become miserable wrecks of once, apparently, prosperous places ; for the surrounding Country, agriculturally, could not support them. We returned by the Tram, and after Dinner, spent together several hours in chat. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, June 29, 1890. I intended to have gone to Church this morning; but learning, on inquiry, that there would be no preaching anywhere that would be apt to instruct or entertain me, I determined to spend my time quietly in my Chamber. During the morning, Mr. Wolfe called at my Room and invited me to join him in a stroll. In our walk we passed some of the Dia- mond Shops, and Mr. Wolfe knowing the Proprietors, took me in and introduced me. They were all, I think, without exception, Israelites, and politely brought out their hid treasures and spread before me the brilliant creatures, of every size, and shape, and value. On one of the tables was displayed wealth to the amount of several hundred thousand dollars. The Companies sell directly to these dealers; they forward to Eng- land and Europe by mail, insured by the Banks. It is the I’arest thing in the World, that any of them are stolen in the transmission ; and equally rare, when sent across the Country in Bullock Wagons or Post Stages. Walking on, we visited the Club House, of which Kimberley is proud, and deservedly so, I think. It is a large two-story brick building, with verandahs above and below, and contains sleeping apartments for the members, and a Restaurant, Reading Room, 432 LETTER NO. 18 . Library, and* Billiard Boom ; altogether a nice affair. He intro- duced me to a number of the members, who welcomed me to their liberties, and with some of them I had pleasant talk about their New Country and its prospects. I learned that the output of the four Mines, year before last, was 3,646,702 carats, of the value of £4,033,332 — more than twenty millions of dollars — and the number of persons killed, one hundred and thirty-three. I have not the data for last year; but everybody in and out of the concern seems satisfied that the Mines are inex- haustible, and for generations yet to come, will pour out their shining wealth. Strange to say, these Mines differ in the kind of Diamonds they respectively yield. Some of the dealers told me they could recognize the stones, and from several piles on the tables picked out those of each and showed me their peculiarities. But none of them could inform me by what process they were formed in Nature’s Laboratory, and said the Scientists, so-called, could tell, with certainty, no more. In the afternoon, Mr. Seymour took Mr. Nead and myself to visit the Compound — a large space enclosed by a high corrugated Iron fence, in close proximity to the Du Toitspan Mine. This is the place for the accommodation of the Kafir laborers. They are employed under contract for four months, renewable at the pleasure of the Kafir. During the engagement the Kafirs are kept in this Com- pound, and marched, under guard, thence daily to their work. This is done to avoid contact with, and corruption by the outsiders, which would be ruinous to their employers, engaged in such precious and easily-concealed commodities. At the expiration of their term of service, they are examined and watched, and before they leave are compelled to disgorge any suspected gain, by processes I have already described. Admitted to the Compound, we called upon Mr. Ward, who has them in charge, and were escorted by him over the grounds. We were in the midst of about two thousand Kafirs, in every stage of dress or undress — individuals from almost every part of their domain in South Africa Northward to Delagoa Bay. Though regarded and recognized members of different tribes, they are individually the same Negro Race, and with identical characteristics, only modified by different climate and contingencies of life. KIMBERLEY. 433 They wei’e engaged difiFerently in different parts of the Compound : some gambling with cards ; some with games unknown to me ; some stretched out in the Sun, fast asleep; some smoking segars, the lighted part in their month, inhaling and driving the smoke through their nostrils ; some gathered in groups, all talking at once ; some around a Missionary playing on a portable Organ, accompanying it with his voice — but whatever a-doing, each and every one in good humor, and shewing his white teeth from time to time in laughter — a jolly set, caring apparently nothing for the comforts of the Civilization around them. This morning, Mr. and Mrs. Williams sent us invitations to dine with them on Monday ; but the preparations we had made to go out on the Rail prevented, and we thus replied. But we determined to call and pay our respects. On our way to his house, we were met by his Carriage, and were told that Mr. Williams had been to see us at the Hotel, and hearing we were at the Compound had sent the conveyance to take us to his home. We found him and Mrs. Wil- liams there, and spent a while pleasantly. You remember, on the Steamer from New Zealand to Tasmania, I fell in with Mr. Gibson, who gave me a Letter to Mr. Norrie, living here. I learned that Mr. Norrie is the Superintendent of the Public Schools aud a man of high standing, and that he lived within a few yards of Mr. Williams’. I determined to step over and deliver the Letter, not because it was a Letter of Introduction, but because it contained friendly salutations between the two friends. But he was not in and I simply left the Letter for him, saying I was about to leave town aud regretted we could not meet. On our walk home, the afternoon was so pleasant, we lingei’ed to enjoy its temj^erature, and to witness the young Moon and the Even- ing Star divide with the radiance of the Setting Sun, the dominion of the Sky. I will close this Letter now, that it may go on the next Steamer. I will leave Cape Town on the 9th of July for Southampton, Eng- land. I long for Cape Town and my Letters, which, I hope, have gathered there from you all. I write in haste these closing lines for the Mail. With tenderest love for all, F. 28 434 LETTER NO. 19. [No. 19.] Kimberley, South Africa, Grand Hotel, Monday, June 30, 1890. 3fy Dear Taylor , — I finished No. 18 to Mary yesterday. This morning, according to agreement, we were at the Station in due time. We found other and better arrangements made for us. Instead of going in a Caboose, a handsome Car was ready to convey us. Mr. Dalton, the Chief Engineer, was there with his wife, to wliom he introduced us, and who made one of the party on the Ex- cursion. He, also, made us acquainted with Mr. Stejihens, the Chief Superintendent of Motive Power of the whole Line, on a tour of Inspection ; he had with him several Ladies of his own family, all of whom went with us, making quite a large and pleasant party. AVe had Lunch and Refreshments, and regaled ourselves during the Journey, at the proper time. The terminus of the run was Eourteen Streams, on the River Vaal — the principal affluent of the Orange — distant forty-seven and one-half miles from Kimbei’ley. This section of the Road is new, and just finished for traffic; to-mor- row will be the first day for regular transportation of jiassengers and freight. The Road is a projection of the through Line North from Kimberley, through Griqua Land AVest, Mashona and Matabele Lands, without, at present, any definite terminus — simply to afford access and outlet to and from the regions known, or supposed, to have deposits of precious stones and metals. The Country over which we passed was without any attractions — generally level, with sorry-looking grass or scrub, and not only wdth- out any cultivation, but presenting no Agricultural promise. Surely, if there be no products beyond, the Railroad now building will be a poor investment. AVe saw some Sheep and Cattle ; but I should think it a scant Range for either. The only habitations I observed were the Stations and the wretched Huts of the Natives — not built with some architectural skill like the Kafir Kraals, of which I have told you ; but simply patched up coverings of sticks and stones and straw and old clothes, representing only discomfort and filth. KIMBERLEY. 435 We crossed the Vaal River on a temporary Bridge, to supply the traffic demands, till the permanent Iron structure is completed. In crossing it, I observed whence and how the place earned the name of the Fourteen Streams. The River is subject to great variations : in some seasons, as now, a small current finding its way through a large channel ; at other seasons filled with a rushing River. At certain stages the water cuts its passage through the alluvium in many streams — to compare small things with great, not unlike the Dalles, where the Columbia has cut those wonderful channels through the solid rock. The careful observer says he can count fourteen here — hence the name. Mr. Stephens and Mr. Dalton made themselves both instructive and agreeable, talking of the Country and things connected with it, and calling our attention to objects along the way. At one time Ave saw a herd of Bush Bucks bounding over the distant Plains. They told me, as I had heard before, that they and other Deer of the same or kindred species are very numerous. Yet, through all these regions. Lions and Tigers and most of the wild beasts have been destroyed or driven Northward by the advance of Civilization. I thought, from information gathered, that the Elephants were few, and confined by Legal protection to a narroAV area ; but this morning’s paper stated, that sixty or seventy of them were seen and put to flight by the out- going Train from Port Elizabeth, not more than thirty or forty miles from that City, in the thicket region, of which, I think, I spoke on our ride to Grahamstown. The trip was altogether an enjoyable one. We stopped now and then, the day being beautiful, and getting out, observed the Country and the Natives, engaged as workmen on the Road. Leaving at eight o’clock, it Avas after dark when we returned, and the Electric plants at the Mines lighted up the Sky like an Illumination. We start for Cape ToAvn to-morroAv. [This Road, as I have already said, is projected beyond Griqua Land West and the Transvaal, or South American Republic, the present resting place of the Boers, into the Matabele and Mashona Country — at present Avithout any certainly-settled terminus. These last tAvo are spoken of by Travellers and Archaeologists as among the richest and most beautiful in the World. They have besides a touch of Romance in their history ; many, who from their studies ought 436 LETTER NO. 19. to know, declaring them to be the ancient Ophir, whence Solomon brought the Gold and Precious Stones for his famous Temple, and the Queen of Sheba gathered the treasures with which she made rich or beguiled the Man of Wisdom ; like the fascinating Dido did before her, the “Pius” ^neas, on his way to found the Roman Empire; or our good Mother Eve, the unwary and confiding Father of the Human Family. Certainly, the Architectural remains indicate great wealth and advancement. Yet, they make no word or sign of expla- nation ; but are as oblivious and deserted as the Uxmal Ruins of Yucatan, and more voiceless than the Pyramids. But theories with regard to such Finds are always in order, and the more far-fetched and romantic, the more interesting. These Countries are yet comparatively unexplored, but of late years have atti’acted considerable attention, and to save myself the trouble of much writing, I will here insert some extracts from the Papers of the Day, to put down very briefly, in passing, the extent of knowledge up to the time of the printing of these Letters. “SOLOMON’S MINES. Europeans Stumble upon Ruins op an African Civilization. Haggard’s Story not a Myth — A Population which Dug the Gold for the Sjdendors of Ancient Jerusalem. [New York World .'] All those who have read Rider Haggard’s graphic description of King Solomon’s Mines will be interested to know that the Mines in question, far from being merely a product of that writer’s fertile imagination, are a reality, and that within a few weeks they have been traced and discovered by the Mashonaland Expedition of the English Southeast African Company. Zinbabye, an ancient city in Mashonaland, was visited many years ao'o by the German traveller Mauch, but he did not appear to have any knowledge of the existence of Gold Mines, nor did he offer any hypothesis as to the ancient people who had inhabited the city. The next occasion of its being visited by Europeans was a few weeks ago, when some members of the British South Africa Company’s pioneer ■SOLOMON’S mines: 437 force stumbled upon the ruins, which lie at the base of a striking and precipitous clilf of “ kopie.” An outer wall about four feet high runs apparently around the entire “ kopie,” but owing to a dense jungle this wall could not be traced further than half a mile. Next came indications of a second and inner wall, which, for the same reason, was unable to be ti’aced for any distance. Then, amid a per- fect labyrinth of remains of smaller circular buildings, stands a high wall of circular shape, from thirty to thii’ty-five feet high, forming a complete enclosure of an area eighty yards in diameter. This wall is ten feet thick at the base, and tapers to about seven feet at the tojj, is built of small granite blocks about twice the size of an ordinary brick, beautifully hewn and dressed, laid in perfectly even courses, and is put together without the use of any mortar or cement whatever. This enclosure is entered by a mere gap in the wall, but which at one time was a well-built entrance, as it is clearly shown by the rounded-off courses. An Ancient Tower. Inside the building itself, and close to the entrance and outer wall, stands a cone-shaped tower thirty-five feet high and eighteen feet in diameter at the base, built of the same granite blocks, and consisting of solid masonry. On the Southeast front of the wall, and twenty feet from its base, runs a double zigzag scroll, one third of the distance around, composed of the same sized granite blocks placed in diagonal positions. On the “ kopie ” and hillside itself there are numerous traces of remains of a similar character, circular buildings wedged in among boulders of rocks, walled terraces, at least nine in number, and built on the very summit is an enormous mass of granite blocks, to be used, apparently, as a foi’t, and which, owing to the complete absence of any disintegrating forces in this climate, is in almost a perfect state of preservation. The tendency to construct circular buildings would seem to indi- cate an absence of intercourse with the ancient Egyptians, whose architecture was of an entirely different nature, cement being used between the courses, and the houses being built square. Trees, centu- ries old, have grown in such profusion as to seriously impede system- atic investigation of the inscription with a view to determining the race to which the inhabitants of the city belonged. One thing is certain, that a large and semi-civilized population must once have dwelled in these lands, and under conditions which make slave-labor 438 LETTER NO. 19. procurable to' an unlimited extent. The Natives are densely igno- rant, and hold no traditions as to the origin or purpose of these strange ruins ; but there is a tradition among the Portuguese which represents the ruins to have been the capital city of the land ruled by the Queen of Sheba, and their ancient records are said to make fre- quent mention of a people living in that part of Southeast Africa, and established there long before their own arrival, and whom they represent as working for gold in the far interior. But whatever the origin of the ruins, the bax’e possibility that the conical tower may prove to be the tumulus of the Queen whom King Solomon honored, is enough to fire the imagination of all the antiquaries of the earth. Were they Indians f The Hindoo who conquered Java could readily have ascended the Zambezi ; so might the Malays who conquered Madagascar, and who remain to this day among the boldest and most adventurous of all maritime peoples. So might, and much more probably, the Arabs, who founded the Sabean Kingdom, who would naturally be drawn, as their descendents still are, by an irresistible attraction to the great and immensely wealthy continent just opposite their doors. And so, above all, might the Phoenicians. It is known that the agents of King Solomon belonged to that race, and the gold and ivoiy which they brought to Jerusalem must have come from one of two places — Africa or India. We know, too, that they were experienced metal- lurgists, that they hunted the World for profitable mines. Then, in opposition to this theory, it would not hav^e been likely that any foreign nation erecting these structures would have changed in every detail its traditional mode of architecture. There are no Phoenician, Carthageniau, Roman, or Moorish ruins of buildings in which the use of mortar is absent, nor is there any similarity in the general form of the houses and walls of Zinbabye with that of any of the ancient ruins elsewhere on the Continent of Africa. Besides, the Egyptians never were known to use granite blocks entirely of small size, their walls being built of huge blocks. Then, whose were the hands that raised these stony piles ? What vanished race, and for what forgotten purpose, built these crumbling towers? Such massive edifices assuredly betoken the existence at one time of a civilized people in the interior of Africa. The Negroes, from whom descended the savage tribes that inhabit Mashonaland "SOLOiMON’S MINES.’ 439 to-day, could not have been the people. That their day was long ago, is proved by the state of the ruins, into which big trees have burrowed and forced their way. The Queen of Sheba. The historian Josephus in his work says that the Queen who was attracted to Jerusalem by the magnificence of King Solomon’s Court was a Queen of Ethiopia, named Nicaule or Nicauls. This statement is strengthened by an Ethiopian legend, which says that a Queen of that Country named Mokeda went to Jerusalem, where she became a worshipper of the true God, and that King Solomon was the father of her son, named Memlek, whose surname was Ebn-Hakim, which signifies “ Son of the Wise.” Later on, history tells us, the Queen entered Jerusalem, followed by a gorgeous suite of retainers and of camels loaded with perfumes, nuggets of gold and precious stones and rich ivory. Now Africa produced all these treasures in great pro- fusion, and when, after King Solomon departed from the religious ways of his forefathers and followed the worship of idols, he became so reduced in circumstances by his reckless extravagance that he had to borrow money, it was from Africa that his revenues came. Driven to desperation, the Jewish King had recourse to the means which is taken by sovereigns at the present time to raise money — he borrowed and failed to pay his creditors. The mines operated by the people of the Queen of Sheba were taxed to their utmost to supply her lover- King with money, and she corresponded with him through the means of a bird named “ Hudhud,” who carried their messages. The scien- tific name of this bird has never been known, but it might have been a carrier-pidgeon, or perhaps numbers of these birds were kept for that purpose, but the legend distinctly states that only one bird was used.” “The Gold Fields of South Africa. The Wonderful Ruins. The best account of the gold fields of South Africa, and the climate and soil of the Matabele and Mashona Lauds, in which those gold fields lie, was given to the Royal Geographical Society at its meeting at Burlington House, London, on November 25, by Mr. E. A. Maund, 440 LETTER NO. 19. whose thorough acquaintance with that Country enables him to speak with authority. These lands are now being explored by the British South Africa Company, which already has Stations in the new crown colony of Bechuanaland, and is pushing its exploring parties to the highlands of Matabeleland and Mashonaland with the’ full authority of Lobengula, the ruling African King. This territory, as described by Mr. Maund, lies practically “between the parallels of 16 degrees and 22 degrees South Latitude, and the meridian of 27 degrees to 23 degrees East Longitude, and is certainly the most promising Country for colonization in South Africa. Compared with the Country South of it, Matabeleland is like Caanan after the wilderness. It is gen- erally healthy, and very rich in minerals — gold, copper, and iron having been extensively worked by the ancients with their rude appliances. Its numerous rivers are either running or have plenty of water in them. The soil is rich, and admirably adapted for corn ; cattle thrive, and there is an abundance of grass and wood. AVhite children can be reared in the Country, which is a sine qua non if it is to be successfully colonized by white men, and, above all, it is sparsely populated.” The government is an unmitigated desj^otism. It con- tains a native population of about one hundred and fifty thousand, and has a fighting sti’ength of from fourteen to fifteen thousand. The King, whom Mr. Maund visited, confided to him his fears of the Portuguese and Boers, but doubting the power of England after the defeat of the British troops at Majuba Hill, “proposed to send two of his head men to see whether the white Queen still lived. These envoys, he said, would be ‘ his eyes, ears, and mouth.’” Mr. Maund accepted the mission, and next day started down Country. The envoys were two naked old colored men, and were gradually dressed on the road. Soon after landing the party were invited to Windsor, and they saw the white Queen, who thoroughly won their hearts by her gracious reception. They returned, and Mr. Maund had no hesitation in saying that the recent peaceable occupa- tion of Mashonaland by the party of pioneers was the direct outcome of the clever way in which these two old men told their tale, and the King disseminated it among his people. After their return, Mr. Maund remained seven months in the Country, making many excursions through it. The King has allowed a part of it to be opened for colonization. “ The Country about to be opened up for colonization is an extensive plateau on the THE GOLD FIELDS OF SOUTH AFRICA. 441 watei'-parting between the Zambesi and the Crocodile Rivers. There are no great mountain peaks. To the East the slope of the land is abrupt and the Country broken, while to the Northwest it falls in gentle undulations. The plateau is furrowed by many considerable Rivers and their numerous tributaries. The climate in these high- lands, which varied from 3,000 feet to 5,000 feet above the Sea level, is far more healthy than the now w-ell-colonized Seaboard of South Africa. The seasons are well marked, and the rainfall is good. For eight months, from April to November, the air is particularly dry and salubrious, and compared well with the Congo Free State. The months of September and October, before the rains, are the hottest in the year. All vegetation appeared dried up, and the grass lands are burned olf by the Natives.” With ordinary care, these highlands are particularly healthy. Some Englishmen, traders and missionaries, have lived up there for twenty-five years, and raised large families. The soil all along the rich Valleys is very fertile, and large crops of Indian corn, and Kafir corn, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, tobacco, and even potatoes and tomatoes, are grown by the Natives. Grass, corn, rice, tobacco, and, with irrigation, all kinds of English vege- tables and fruits flourish there. “ It was to the mineral riches, how- ever,” said Mr. Maund, “ that they must look for the quick develop- ment of the Country. The gold in Mashonaland would, he believed, create a rush only to be paralleled in the development of California and the Western States of America. During the seven months he remained with the King, after the return of his Induuas, he mapped and, as far as possible, prospected the immediate neighborhood of his chief Kraals. In some of the numerous reefs they found free gold, and old workings were visible. There was, too, in this district a banket formation similar to that in the Transvaal, while North of the Ramaquoban River the charter prospectors found a body of reef, running as much as two ounces to the ton. It was not in that dis- trict, however, that the Company had begun work ; it wns the Mazoe and Hanyani fields that w^ere being carefully explored by a w'ell- organized pioneering expedition. Those Northern gold fields had been talked about for twenty years.” It is the latter fields the South Africa Company are now exploring. Twelve miles East of one of their Stations in the Mountains are the grand ruins of the ancient capital Zinbabye. The many and vast remains of ancient buildings all point, from their propinquity to old workings, to an extensive 442 LETTER NO. 19. gold industry- carried on by crude means. These gold fields will soon be provided with modern appliances, and there is an ample supply to be had of native labor. The difficulty up to the present time has been the cost of transportation. Between the new South Africa Colony and the Cape is eighteen hundred miles ; but this is to be overcome by tapping the Colony from the East Coast. Pongwe Bay is scarcely more than two hundred and fifty miles from the Mines, ninety miles of which can be done by water. The remainder of the distance it is proposed to connect by railway. With regard to the extensive ruins, not only at Zinbabye, but all over the Country, the mystery surrounding their origin is now soon to be cleared up by competent Archaeologists, who are going out to investigate them. “ There can be little doubt,” Mi\ Maund says, “ that they were built for the smelting, and possibly the protection and storage, of gold and other metals.” He puts aside all the stories current of their being the Mines of King Solomon, and Zinbabye the residence of the Queen of Sheba, and that they were worked by the old Portuguese, the Moors, or the Persians, and leans to the belief that the buildings were of Phoenician origin, and date back to pre- historic times.” “The Gold Fields of Mashonaland. At length we get a lucid idea of the resources of South Africa, and of Mashoualand in particular, its climate, its wonderfully fertile soil, its gold fields, and the remarkable ruins of Zinbabye, once a great city, supposed to have been built before the dawn of history by the Phoenicians. Mr, de Waal, a native of the Cape Colony, for the last nine years a member of the Cape Parliament, and at one time Mayor of Cape Town, has recently returned from a grand tour of Mashona- land with Mr. Cecil Rhodes, the Prime Minister of the Cape Colony, and, being in England, has given the Review of Revmvs the result of his observations and of his long experience of a Country in which he and his Dutch ancestors have lived for three hundred years. The voyage was made by Sea from Cape Town to the River Puugwe on the Indian Ocean, and thence up the River and by land transpor- tation to Massikesse, the limit of the South African possessions of Portugal. Through all this low Country the heat and the ravages of the Tetse Fly make travel painful and dangerous; but the Mozam- THE GOLD FIELDS OF MASHON ALAND. 443 bique Company is building a Railroad from the head of navigation on the Pungwe to Massikesse, where the uplands of the British pos- sessions begin and over which the trade of Mashonaland will ulti- mately be carried to the Sea. A small Map given in the Review shows the system of roads that have been constructed over the ridges of the Watershed traversing Mashonaland, and the series of Forts which have been constructed to defend the workers in the different gold fields that have been discovered, against the incursions of the blacks in the adjacent territory of Matabeleland. Of these gold fields six ai’e laid down on the Map, and each Fort is garrisoned by a small company of white men and armed with Gatling guns. The total number of white men in Mashonaland does not at present exceed 1,200, but colonists are slowly coming in from the Transvaal and taking up lauds under the rules laid down by the Company. All the uplands are healthy and well watered. “You ask me,” said Mr. de Waal, “what I think of Mashona- land. I will tell you, not in my own words, but in those of one who has been hunting in the Country for the last twenty years : ‘ Mashona- land is the finest Country God ever made.’ He spoke as a hunter ; I speak as a farmer. It is a land which, to any one who knows any- thing about the veldt, is the richest in South Africa — a Country abounding in all natural wealth, fertile, sparsely populated, but full of everything which is necessary for a great colony. As for the gold, that is a matter upon which I am not an expert ; but, although not a miner or prospector or speculator myself, I can give you the evi- dence of the best authorities upon the subject. I have visited the leading reefs, and talked with the men who are working them. I have brought back samples of the quartz, which I have had submitted to an analyst in Cape Town, and I can give you here the exact figures as to the results which the various reefs yield, and you will see from these figures that in gold the Country is as good as it is for grazing and farming.” Thus far all the work has been preparatory — the building of forts, the prospecting for new gold-bearing reefs, and the making of roads. Very little gold has been mined. Most of the reefs having been simply opened to test the quartz and subject it to analysis. The working of the reefs on a large scale is dependent on the inflow of colonists, as soon as the Countiy is opened to receive them. “In the course of our journey, after leaving the Pungwe,” says Mr. de Waal, 444 LETTER NO. 19. “ we passed through forty miles of open Country, which I can best describe by saying that it was simply one huge zoological garden. Never before have I seen such abundance of wild animals. They have been left all these ages undisturbed by man, and the result is that for the sportsman no such region exists in the World. Great herds of Buffaloes can be seen within gunshot of the road. You fire at a great Buffalo bull, and the moment the report of your rifle is heard, you see you are in the midst of animals of all kinds. Wild Pigs jump up to tlie right, to the left herds of Koodoos rush away into the more distant glades, and the whole forest seems suddenly instinct with life. You go a little farther and you come upon fresh spoors of herds of Elephants ; then you come upon Giraffes and herds of Quaggas and Antelopes, and every description of animal which abounds in South Africa. It is, as I said, one great zoological gar- den for the whole of the forty miles.” As to the Country itself, after reaching the summit of the Water- shed, Mr. de Waal could find no other comparison than with the Garden of Eden. For a distance of a hirudred and seventy-four miles it reminded him of Italy between Rome and Naples, with hill and dale and woody knolls, and of wonderful natural fertility. At Fort Victoria they left the newly-constructed highway to visit the ruins of Zinbabye, and as Mr. de Waal’s account of it is the clearest of any we have seen, we give it entire. He says : “ There is no doubt of Zinbabye being one of the most woirderful relics of antiquity in the whole World. It is a great empty city, built round a rock or citadel in the centi’e of the ruins, like the rock of Edinburgh Castle and the Acropolis at Athens. The circuit of the city I did not lueasure, but I should say that it must have been five miles round. It is wonderful, and as I remarked to Mr. Rhodes, if the Chartered Company will but keep it as it is, it will be as good as a gold mine to them. Mr. Bent seemed to me to have been rather too busy in his excavations here and there for utensils and of relics of the city builders. It is difficult to say how thickly they packed the people in Zinbabye in the days when it was a great city, full of life and trade, but thei’e must have been a population of fifty thousand or possibly one hundi’ed thousand gathered together round the rock citadel. We walked up and down the desolated streets, and mar- velled that a race so civilized, so wealthy, and so powerful should have so utterly passed away without even leaving a memory of the THE LAND OF OPHIB. 445 inhabitants to whom it belonged. Its central point, both in interest and situation, was the Temple of the great Phallus, which, in the opinion of many experts, identifies these forgotten city builders with the Phoenicians. It is a building as large as the Coliseum at Rome, although not so high. The walls are from nine to twelve feet in thickness, and all the interior is in perfect preservation, with the chambers leading to the houses of the priests and the altar of the great Phallic emblem, upon the top of which we all could have encamped. These people, whoever they wei’e, were gold smelters, and you can still trace the remains of the furnaces in which they smelted the gold. It is a unique spectacle, a whole city remaining through the ages tenautless and so entirely forgotten that even a tra- dition of its existence has not been left.” “Is IT THE Land op Ophir? Something more about the Mysterious Ruins of Mashonaland. What a strangely potent magic there is to the children of a modern civilization in all that concerns those more ancient ones which have had their day and ceased to be ages before our own was heard of ! As a vein of romance it is inexhaustible. In “ Salammbo,” in “The Last Days of Pompeii,” in Mr. Rider Haggard’s subterranean creations, it is the same old spell which arrests the fancy. Relics of the power and pride of immemorial peoples, whom the earth knows no more, have an equal charm for the antiquarian and the man in the street. To this, we suspect, almost equally with more substantial attractions, is due the general interest in the work of the British South Africa Company. Mashonaland is a vast and rich possession ; the Mata- beles ai’e a fierce and interesting race of savages, and the name of gold is now, as ever, a talisman to conjure with. But what an added lustre the expedition gains when the scene of its labors is identified with the Land of Ophir and the object of its search with the real King Solomon’s Mines ! And whether that particular identification of the I’emains which strew this barbarous Country be well founded or not, there the remains are — ancient, massive, mysterious — contrasting in startling fashion with the primi- tive barbarians who dwell about them and with the jungly wildness 446 LETTER NO. 19. of surrounding nature. Each stone in them is, as it were, a mute challenge, a petrified inquiry; and the curiosity aroused in 1871 by the descriptions of the German traveller Mauch, whom the learned World half suspected of romancing, will receive a keen stimulus from the accounts in which the pioneers of the Chartered Company now confirm and amplify his observations. Can we ever read the riddle of these stony sphinxes of Mashona- land, of which the public can now, for the first time, fonn a clear idea? So far the only clew we have is that of which our special correspondent lately wrote as follows : “Who were they, these soldier- workmen of a vanished civilization, and at whose bidding did they force their way into this barbarous place to dig for gold? * * * The Country is dotted with strange broken relics of their work. The furnaces which they built to smelt the ore, the strong round keeps which they raised against the alarms of some besetting foe, the great stones in which they scored in unde- cipherable characters the record of their labors, perhaps the clew to their prize — these things remain, and move the awe of the Matabele and his Mashona vassal. * * * ‘ And they came to Ophir and fetched from thence gold, four hundred and twenty talents, and brought it to King Solomon.’ ‘ Now the weight of gold that came to King Solo- mon in one }'ear was six hundred three-score and six talents of gold.’ “ The mysterious folk who have imprinted on Mashonaland the traces of an ancient quest for gold were none other, so the learned nave conjectured, than those quick, adventurous Phoenicians who, in the days when the Red Sea was the Mediterranean of ancient com- merce and the Mediterranean its Atlantic, brought ‘ gold of Ophir, fine gold,’ and ‘great plenty of almug trees and precious stones ’ to the Oriental Monarch, whose magnificence is still a proverb upon modern lips. To-day, then, the Englishman is in the land of Ophir * * * opening afresh the treasure-house of antiquity, equipped with resources of which the deft Phoenician never dreamed. “ It may be that he will come upon such relics among the aban- doned workings as will throw a new light upon the story of his predecessors and rewrite a page of the World’s history. It may be even that he will stumble into chambers of subterranean wealth such as Mr. Haggard has imagined, secured with labyrinths like those of the Pyramids, with sliding stones and all the appropriate witchcraft of an age when human life and human labor were of no account. At KIMBERLEY TO CAFE TOWN. 447 least, before many years are out, we may expect to see the image of Queen Victoria stamped on the gold with which King Solomon over- laid his ivory throne and wreathed the cedar pillars of his temple.” Pall-Mall Gazdte.'\ On Train from Kimberley to Cape Town, AND AT Cape Tom^n, International Hotel, Tuesday and Wednesday, July 1 and 2, 1890. It rained heavily last night. When I heard it, I feared we would be incommoded in getting off in the morning. We had not ordered a Carriage for ourselves, only a conveyance for our luggage, intend- ing to walk. But Kimberley after a rain is something frightful to contemplate. Having few, if any, sidewalks, the red mud, of which I have spoken, becomes tenacious as putty, and walking in it a per- formance serious to undertake. Starting before daylight, I feai’ed no servants would be on hand, and our coming away be seriously incom- moded. But things turn out, some how, with me prosperously on travel. The Manager had thought of the matter for us, and when the hour of departure came, we had a cup of Coffee ready and twm Carriages, one for ourselves and one for our baggage, and we were transported comfortably to the Station in full time. Here, the Station Master, to whom we had spoken, had a whole compartment prepared for us, which we occupied by ourselves during the entire journey to Cape Town. We left at six o’clock, and moved all day Tuesday and Tuesday night, reaching here on Wednesday at one o’clock p. m., a distance of six hundred and forty -seven miles. The Hoad, like all the Roads in South Africa, and the Car and Compartment, were similar alto- gether to those we used from Port Elizabeth to Kimberley — no bed- clothes being furnished — making our bed upon the benches, and covering with our coats and shawls and rugs. But my talent for sleep served me well, and stayed with me faithfully during the part of the night I devoted to it, and in the Morning I had missed no rest. We had our Breakfast and Dinner served in our Compartment, and this Morning our Breakfast, from a Kitchen Car attached, and both abundant and well prepared. This seems luxurious for South Africa, lately the home of the savage and wild beast; but the same powers 448 LETTER NO. 19. which make -our Civilization can transfer it with magic speed to the uttermost parts of the Earth. The rain ceased after a while, and the Sky cleared, and good weather prevailed, both day and night : that and our comfortable Compartment made the whole time enjoyable. Mr. Stephens and his company were along in another Car, and they came in to see us, he frequently, to call our attention to objects of interest upon the way. The Country during the whole of Tuesday was the same as that of which I have written — for we came Southward, your Map will show you, on the same Line to the Junction at De Aar, which carried us to Kimberley, and tlience on hitherward, till nightfall ; a little after which we came to Beaufort West. Shortly before this we crossed the Winter Bergen Range of Mountains, which bounds Southward the great Plateau on which Kimberley is seated and over whicli we rolled all day, more than four thousand feet above the Sea and about three hundred miles in width. Crossing this Range we descend into the Desert of Karroo, cutting it diagonally. Southwest, one hundred and fifty miles or thereabouts. Beaufort West stands on the Northern 2^art of this, embowered in vegetation, induced by culture and irrigation, and called the Gem of the Karroo. Though night had come, darkness did not ; the Moon was far advanced and exceeding bright, showing us much that, with- out her, would have been lost. The Great Karroo is not absolutely a Desert. It cannot be cultivated with ju’ofit — the stones, and scarcity of rain and water, and jjoverty of soil forbid it ; but, I am informed, when Spring comes with showers, the liarsh scrub and hardened earth are softened, and bloom with rich and lovely flowers; then, too, some grass comes, and it is a Range for Sheep and Goats and Cattle. Nor is it a level Plain ; but varies much in elevation. It sinks from the Mountain Range, at forty-five hundred and fifty feet, to twenty-seven hundred and fifty at Beaufort West, and then, half way across, to eighteen hundi’ed and thirty at Prince Albert Road, and to thirteen hundred and fifty still further South — rising again at Touro’s River to thirty-five hundred and eighty-seven, and fifteen miles further, at Triangle, to thirty-two hundred — both belonging to the Zwartz Mountains, which bound the Great Karroo upon the South. The general contour of the Desert, too, is not a level Plain, but undulating, with savage rocks forbidding cultivation. The foregoing figures of elevation were dictated to me by Mr. Stephens and noted at the time. KIMBERLEY TO CAPE TOWN. 449 We reached Triangle after daylight, and thence on had a clear Sky in our descent at Hex River — sixteen miles — the finest scenic point along the entire Line and well worth seeing — the track round- ing the rugged Mountains, now sprinkled with snow, and beautiful- looking up and down as we proceeded upon the graceful spiral. The Valley of the Hex River, spotted with white men’s homes, presents a pretty sight, heightened this morning by the mists which rose and swept over the scene and along the bases or athwart the Mountain tops, beautified or dispersed by the coming Sun. The Rain last night extended over an area of probably a hundred miles and enabled me to see its effect upon the soil. It did not render it more interesting to look at. No fresh verdancy followed, as with us, when a drought has gone, nor does the ground absorb the water and seem refreshed ; but the same sad look is deepened by the moisture that ought to refresh, standing in pools and puddles — a sadness instead of a joy. I must admit, that but a small, a very small part of Africa, were I a tiller of the soil, invites me hither. At Worcester, another Oasis-like appearance presents itself, and then more cultivation, and after a while numerous fields of Grain, chiefly Wheat and Oats, Mr. Stephens tells me only cultivated once in five years, and then allowed to stand in weeds and scrub, and then, without clover or fertilizer, again turned under ; the soil is thin and can stand no more. At Wellington, about fifty miles out of Cape Town, I learned there was a Post Office Car attached to the Train, like those with us, and not having an oj^portunity before, I mailed to you No. 18, which I spoke of in the first paragi'aph of this Letter. A Steamer, I was told, would leave Cape Town for England in the afternoon, and I feared I would not have time after my arrival to mail it. I wanted it to go without delay ; for the Steamer I shall take does not leave till the 9th — a week hence. This, unfinished, I will carry with me. Soon the Vineyards, for which Cape Town and its vicinity are famous, came in sight extensively, on either side of the Road. The Vines are cultivated like those I told you of in California on my First Tour — not like those I told you of in Switzerland and Italy on my Second. They are trimmed back to stocks and grow in bunches near the ground. Now — the Winter time here — the leaves are gone; but the naked Vines look healthy and well cultivated. From all I 29 450 LETTER NO. 19. hear, their cultivation is a success, and the Cape has Wines of which she is very proud. Nearing Cape Town, the scenery becomes uncommonly fine ; the Mountains assume the most picturesque and varied outlines, set off by extended areas of cultivation about their base. But Table Moun- tain, the distinguishing feature of the scenery about the City, was wrapped in Clouds — not simply resting on it, but swept across it by a Southwest wind, forecasting rain. We were met at the Station by the Manager, and soon, in Carriages with our baggage, we were brought to this Hotel, and assigned to Rooms. It is regarded as the best in town — but out upon its sub- urbs. A Tram, however, comes to the Gateway. First thing upon reaching the Hotel was to go at once to the Bank of Africa to get your Letters. It is down in the town, a mile or more ; but I walked. I was told that there were some Letters for me, but heavy chai’ges for deficient postage and fines. Some had not been taken from the Post Office. ' I expressed my indignation that the Bank should thus treat me ; I held a Letter of Credit on Brown, Shipley & Co., London, from Brown Brothers & Co., New York, and the Bank of Africa was my Correspondent here, and I thought it might have received my mail, paying charges, till ray arrival. I had written from Australia, and requested you to write the same from home. The Officers said they had received yours but not mine, and could not gather from that all the circumstances. I had never before met with such treatment in all my travels, which had been extensive. They were considerably flustered, and begged me to await the arrival of the Manager, who was temporarily out. This, I agreed to do. When he came, I expressed the same opinions to him, and told him my Letters were of infinite value to me. He, also, was flustered, and expressed his great regret. They sent to the Post Office, and the Messenger returned with a number of Letters and the amount of deficient postage and fines. The whole sum was seventeen shil- lings — four dollars and twenty-five cents — which I at once discharged and took the precious package. There were only four bundles of papers, all told. The Manager said he would inquire at the Head Letter Office, and let me know the result by one of the Officers who boarded at this Hotel. He did inform me, when he came up, that I had received all which had arrived. CAPE TOWN. 451 I returned to my Room, and spent the residue of the Evening in reading them ; a good time after my long absence from you all. I will speak of them to-mori’ow, and let you know their dates and why so many have been lost. When I returned to the Hotel it was raining, and continued all the afternoon and into the night, a regular pour down. It is a pleasing thing to you, beyond all doubt, that another long link in the Travel Chain is ended. Same City and Hotel, Thursday, July 3, 1890. The Rain has poured down or drizzled heavily all day, forbidding any out-door work. You will recall what an unusual thing this is to me on my travels. Before starting on my extensive Tours, I make myself acquainted with the climate and seasons of the Countries I propose to visit, and, consequently, I have always travelled in the Summer of the World. It is true, that in a journey so vast as this, and indeed all, I may say, I have made, it would seem to be some- times impossible to hit good weather always ; for whilst general or terrestrial laws prevail, local causes produce varieties of climate in Countries of close proximity. But my good fortune, rvhich has ever been with me, and for which I am deeply grateful, has not only guarded me in the midst of, and through many dangers, but has tempered the Seasons everywhere, and given me favorable, though, often in localities, abnormal weather. This is the first day of for- bidding I have experienced since I left home on the first of last December. I ought not to be surprised to meet it here and now ; for this is not only, in general, the mid-Winter time of the Cape, as of all Regions South of the Line, but for local reasons is regarded the worst period of the year. You will recall how favorably Fortune, directed by a Good Providence, has betided me whithersoever I have travelled over all the World; but I can hardly expect the Laws of Nature to be changed to suit my little plans. Enough of the weather ; we will now go ahead. It is an ill wind that blows no good. Despite the weather I passed a happy day. Whilst things looked ugly without, in my Chamber I had a charming time, communing with you all at home. I read and re-read your Letters, and found everything was well, at least till 452 LETTER NO. 19. the First of June, the latest that communication could possibly have reached me — twenty days from this to England, ten more across the Atlantic and to our homes. This gave me infinite comfort after the long silence. Now, about your Letters. I will give you the dates of all that have come to hand ; from them you can tell how many have been lost since you began to write to South Africa. How many were lost in the passage to New Zealand and Australia, I cannot say, for none have come to me forwarded from those Countries. From you : March 27, April 2, April 14, April 23, April 30, May 7, May 15, May 22; — from Charles: March 31, May 1; — from Margaret : March 23, March 30, April 5, April 20, April 27, May 11, May 21, May 25; — from Mary: April 5, May 2. I, also, re- ceived one from Ranny Harrison, full of kindliness and friendship, dated March 31. All of these Letters, including Charles’ and Harrison’s, were stamped with five cents, and, consequently, tabooed — except two from you and two from Mai-garet, which were stamped with fifteen cents ; why they should have passed them at all or should have stopped any, as they did one or more of yours that were brought to your knowledge, I do not know. I think it highly probable many were stopped in San Francisco; maybe Margaret’s missing ones are there. Write, when you receive this, at once to the Postmaster in that City, and request him, if there be any, to forward them to you. There are private things in them — for they are freely and confidentially written. Yours were returned, because I observe they have the Box mark upon them ; Margaret’s had nothing to indicate whence they came, the P. O. Stamp being blurred and illegible. I have received only four packages of Papers out of, I should think, not less than fifteen or twenty that ought to have come. They, I suppose, have been thrown away somewhere. J regret this greatly, for our Town and State Papers keep me advised of what is going on within them ; now I am entirely ignorant of what has been doing there for five or six months. Your individual Letters gave me great comfort, being assured that you are well, and your troubles most favorably concluded. I am fully satisfied that you have done everything for the best; for whilst anything pleases me which gratifies you, I am quite sure from what you tell me of your work upon the houses, my presence could not CAPE TOWN. 453 have helped you to do any better. I am glad, too, you have rented the Shoe Factory Building to your satisfaction. I agree with you. Your views about the projected Boom are right. I care nothing about the change of site of the Hotel — save that I fear the one selected is too far off to answer the purposes of the town in a business way. It may answer the purpose of a Summer Boarding House, but not, I fear, a Hotel for Business men. But I trust sincerely we may get a good Hotel, which I know our old town sadly needs. I am glad things are getting on at the Farm well. I note what you say of Jim whitewashing there and in town. To Margaret: Your Letters were so newsy and interesting, that they whetted my appetite for more, and aggravated the sense of the loss of those which failed to reach me. You observe, I tell Taylor he ought to write to San Francisco to inquire about them. I hope he will do this at once. I wish I bad time to chat in these Letters about the numerous items you detail ; but that must wait our happy meeting, not far distant now. Give my love and kisses to Mary, and tell her her’s must thus await the same kind of answer. Love to the Doctor and Little Mas;. To Charles: Glad you and all in both Households are well. Love to both. Wish Charley and Mary hajipiness on the advent of the little stranger ; may he be a perennial joy and comfort to them both. Right glad, too, am I, that Charley is doing well ; may his pros- perity continue and increase more and more ! Tell Little Taylor, the Cup he gave me is a great traveller, and has journeyed with me many thousands of miles, and ever reminds me of his kind thoughtfulness in making me a present of it. We will lose no more Letters now. I have no doubt they are gathering in London, to await my arrival there, and gladden my voyage homeward. I am thankful none of mine have come to grief, yours inform me, at least to No. 13. Doubtless, others have come in since, keeping you ever by my side. This Hotel is seated at the base almost of Table Mountain, the conspicuous object in Cape Town above every other, its enormous bulk towering above the City, too grand to be forbidding. But it has not deigned to show itself in full since my arrival. The Clouds have swept across it from morning till night, veiling its majestic out- lines. To-morrow, maybe, it will uncover, and let me see its famous figure. 454 LETTER NO. 19. Same City and Hotel, Friday, July 4, 1890. My anticipations have been realized, the Clouds have fled, and all day the Sun has been out in his happiest humor, and helped to put Cape Town and its environments in their best attire. The Hotel, as I have hitherto said, is located upon the suburbs, under the shadow of Table Rock : it, behind, and the town spread out below. Seaward. Though out some miles or more, it is accessible, and a Horse Tram leads from the front gate into the City — though the walk, to my pedestrian capacity, is easy. The Hotel is in a large enclosure, orna- mented with trees and flowers — now, however, in the Winter time, many of them have lost their leaves. Yet, there was to-day no sense of frost — the temperature genial and delightful. Cape Town, like all South African towns, can be muddy with its red clay, and after the heavy rain, readily puts on that habit. We, therefore, went down on the Tram, and reaching the centre of the City, walked about the streets and visited the Curio Shops and Stores, a few of which were very good. I bought some Silver leaves that grow on Table Mountain ; when cured and pressed they afford an admirable surface on which to paint; I got several with an excellent representation of the Town and Mountain. I bought, also, a fine Photograph, which will be a worthy companion for the North Cape, Fuziyama, Rio Harbor, and other noted places already hanging on our walls; I bought, too, one of Cape Point, the Headland of the Cape of Good Hope, and whilst in Kimberley, commissioned my Friend Louis I. Seymour to buy me one representing the Diamond Mines, which are well worthy to take their place by the side of those I have already named among the World’s Wonders. He will send it to me at our home, by mail. And then I bought some Books on Africa, to while away the hours on our three weeks’ voyage to South- ampton. These doings, together with looking in the Shop windows and at the people, consumed the morning hours, and Lunch was on when we returned. In the afternoon, the Sun having dried up much of the mud, we walked into the City, visiting the Botanical Gardens and Museum, reaching them through a long Avenue of trees, constituting a street, now in their Winter nakedness. On one side lay the Gardens, on CAPE TOWN. 455 the other, some Public Grounds, fenced in, and beyond them the Governor’s House and Private residences, till at the farther end we reached the Museum, fronting the Houses of Parliament across the way — the latter a handsome brick Edifice, trimmed with stucco in imitation of Granite, with a Portico on each of the four sides, with Corinthian Columns, said to have cost moi’e than a million of dollars. We visited the Museum ; an admirable collection, especially of Birds, which my old Friend Mr. Layard urged me to see, on his account, having spent many months of his young life in organizing and arranging it, when he resided here for a number of years as the Private Secretaiy of Sir George Gray, then Governor. Mr. Layard seemed to recall with great pride and satisfaction this work, and told me many interesting things about it; and, certainly, it is most credit- ^ible to his industry and scientific skill and learning. The Collection is numerous, and well prepared and preserved. But, of course, I cannot, in these running Letters, now any more than hitherto else- where, attempt to give even a summary of its contents. I should have been gratified, had time permitted, to have lingered over the Deer Department, the fullest and best I have seen of the South Afri- can Species, which are exceedingly numerous. This I have before spoken of, I think, in former pages. In another portion of the Building is tlie Library, a large, well- ventilated and lighted Room, with an admirable Collection. In an independent Apartment is the Donation of Sir George Gray, consist- ing of Books, many of them Illuminated and rare Editions, and other precious things. When in Auckland I told you of a similar munificent Donation of Sir George to that City. It rarely happens that the same individual confers two such bounties upon different Countries. The Evening, by this time, was approaching, and we returned. I cannot describe to you in adequate terms, and tongue the splendid scene which was before and arouird us whilst we walked. The Sky, purified by the rain, was without a Cloud; the houses of the City were around us, stretching to the Sea. Before us, and backing all, massive, precipitous, was Table Mountain, three thousand eight hundred and fifty-two feet in height, seemingly a solid mass of dark Living Rock, whose summit, in the clean air, seemed chiselled to a plane — a mag- nificent bulk in its repose. Adjoining it on the right, fronting out- ward, my left looking towards it, is Devil’s Peak, three thousand three hundred and fifteen feet high ; and on the other side, a short distance 456 LETTER NO. 19. away, is the Lion’s Head, two thousand feet in height — all three, lately swept by Clouds, uncovered now, towering above the houses gathered at their base, looking over them toward the Ocean, and pre- senting, in their clean-cut nakedness, a grandeur I have never seen surpassed. Table Mountain, with its associates, even under the enthusiastic descriptions their presence evokes, has not been over- done by those who have spoken or written of them. At Dinner time, my Bank friend brought me a package of Papers and two Letters — one from you and one from Margaret ; the former May 29, the latter June 1. These only confirm the gratification your others afforded me — things in general moving comfortably and well with you in the Old Home, save an interregnum of “ no Cook ” : Mr. Topsy having got upset himself, clean upset Mrs. Topsy in his catastrophe. I hope the interregnum was short, and a new Dynasty has long since begun, better than the outgoing — could not well be worse, I apprehend. To Margaret : The same of yours as of Taylor’s — glad it came — a welcome guest. I thought no more would come to the Cape, but that I would meet others at Brown, Shipley & Co.’s, Loudon. Upon reflection, however, several more will be written before the Letter sent from Sydney will I’each you, requesting that direction. I forget the long distance my Letters have to travel, and the time it takes. I expect I will have to order some that will arrive when I have gone to be sent after me. I read with deep regret of the furious storm of which you speak, and the losses of my friends : in some instances the loss, though far distant from my own property, will, I fear, leave me the bag to hold. I have many more things to talk of, which your Letters suggest ; but they will have to await our meeting, when, for hours, we will gather up the threads of incident about our homes, and weave them into a story of the time I have been away. Same City and Hotel, Saturday, July 5, 1890. The right to change, which belongs at this season to the Cape Town weather, was asserted to-day. It resembled one of those which our April knows how to manufacture — alternate shower and sunshine, and not unlike in temperature. Now, the Sun shone — and, now, it CAPE TOWN. 457 didn’t; now, mist and drops of water scud through the atmosphere — now, they were gone, one could not see whither. But the Mountain never took the cloth from his Table ; during the livelong day, the Clouds hung like drapery about it. We did not stop for that. We walked down town, and taking a Hansom, the chief mode of conveyance here, and drove to the Wharf to inquire for our Deck Chairs, which Captain Winder, of the Dun- robin Castle, kindly brought on from D’Urban, when we left his Vessel there. We found them readily; the Officer kindly said there was no charge upon them, and he would retain them for us till the day of our departure, when they could be easily transferred to the Steamer, the Landing of which was a few rods distant. Returning, I got a piece of Silver for our Set. Then we visited the Market, and then stepped in, near by, to see the United States Consul, Captain George F. Hollis, from Boston, Massachusetts, who received us most cordially, and we had a pleasant chat. Having been so long without Newspapers, I asked him the news. He said the Tariff Bill was hanging — probably there would be no action this Ses- sion. Charles had spoken of the Blair School Bill, and the action of some of oui- friends; I wanted to know about that — being, I conceive, the most far-reaching and pernicious Scheme ever proposed in Congress at any period of our History ; not only defeating the aims of those who desire the Education of the masses, but remitting them to infinite debauchery and peculation. Oh ! he said, that is gone. Not reflect- ing that my views may run counter to his, I, involuntarily, said, thank the Great Being, from whom all blessings flow ! It will, in addition to other good things, be a lesson to those so-called Statesmen, who, instead of leading and instructing and elevating the people, afraid of their own little future are ever watching what they deem the current, and that they may float upon it, forthwith converting themselves into feathers. In this special case the blow is the harder, because the leader of the movement is esteemed a crank, if not a lunatic, and fitter for an Asylum than the United States Senate. On our return, we stopped and visited the Houses of Parliament. The Bodies were not in Session to-day. It is composed of two Houses — the Council and the Assembly — both elective by constit- uencies not unlike our State Senate and House of Delegates, but with a property qualification in the Electors. We visited, however, the Chambers — handsome Halls, worthy of the handsome exterior. The 458 LETTER NO. 19. Janitor escorted us, and was very polite, saying that Monday would be an important day, there being an issue between the Government and the opposition with regard to the construction of Railways in the Colony, the Government favoring — from my observation of the Country I have no doubt the opposition is right — and if we would leave our names he would secure seats for us, that we might favor- ably hear the discussion. We did so, and will try to attend. The Botanical Garden is obliquely opposite, and extends on a line with the Museum along the Avenue for more than one-half its length. We entered at the lower gate and walked entirely through. Near the entrance and before the Museum stands a very primitive and poorly-executed Statue of Sir George Gray, in token and memory of his services and benefactions. There is nothing in the Gardens or their contents that need detain us in the description. It is long and narrow, much inferior in its collection and arrangement to many of which, from time to time, I have written. But we must not forget that Cape Town is not Tropical, and cannot produce or sustain vege- tation of such infinite variety as those regions, and that now, the time of the green has gone, and that of the “sere and yellow” has come. We visited two Banks whilst in town — the Standard Bank of Africa, my Friend Mr, Nead’s Correspondent on his Letter of Credit, and mine, the Bank of Africa, to draw some money for our further travels. The former is an elegant Building ; on first sight, with its massive Corinthian Columns, I took for the City Hall, The latter is more unpretentious. My Bank friends were exceedingly courteous, and if any more Letters come, I am quite sure they will receive them and pay all charges for me and forward, whilst I continue my movements around the World, A little breeze of dissatisfaction is often good. Yesterday was the Fourth of July, and celebrated here. The Con- sul reminded me of it, and said if he had known of my presence, I should have received an Invitation to the Festival as an honored guest, I knew it was the Anniversary, and purposely kept dark ; for I knew, too, the thing he spoke of with regard to myself would certainly have taken place, and I would have had to norate about the Great Republic and the Eagle, I had rather travel quietly and incog. and let the Colossus speak for herself, which I am aware full well she does, and will more and more, from year to year, about the Globe, The United States, in Foreign Countries, excites only the idea of gigantic power, with no conception of trouble, or internal or external CAPE TOWN. 459 annoyance, for all the centuries yet to come. May that conception be realized, evermore ! In the afternoon it drizzled ofP and on, and I did not go out. I had intended to go to hear some Negro Singers, purporting to be from Virginia, travelling in behalf of the Hampton Institute. They sing Plantation, Jubilee, and Hallelujah songs, and some who have heard them tell me they are highly respectable in appearance and have melodious voices. But when the hour in the Evening came, it was raining and dark, and we determined to postpone our attendance till Monday. Same City and Hotel, Sunday, July 6, 1890. I strolled during the Morning for some time about the streets, and at the hour of Service, went to the Cathedral of the Established Church of England — near the centre of the City, not far from the Houses of Parliament. It is a large Edifice, with a lofty tower, and in the front enclosure stands a Monument to the memory of Robert Gray, one of the former Bishops of the Diocese. I found the Church quite full — a large Congregation; but one of the ushers or wardens met me at the door and gave me an advanced and good seat. There were from forty to fifty male Choristers, old, middle aged, and young, and their Music was uncommonly fine, which in a measure compensated for the miserable intoning of the Service. I never hear this wretched rendering of our Liturgy — glorious in itself above most human compositions — that I am not annoyed. Where it is done, the puling whine is carried into the reading of the Prayers, the Hymns, and the Scriptures, and what was intended to be spoken with manly utterance, worthy of the lofty themes and the noble words in which they are couched, is doled out in sorry weakness. This Morn- ing, the Reader’s voice spoiled utterly every part of the Service he attempted, for that voice had long since been ruined by this custom of the Church. Our magnificent Liturgy was only saved by the trained voices of the Chorus, who filled the Cathedral, in their appropriate responses, with a volume of melody. The Sermon was by the Dean, whose name I did not learn, and whose utterance sent little to my ear ; but from what I heard, I would much rather have listened to the Choristers render, in their Cathedral Music, the “ Gloria in Excelsis.” 460 LETTER NO. 19. In the afternoon, we hired a Carriage for a drive. The weather threatened — indeed, behaved a while in April style — and we hesi- tated to venture. But having little time at our disposal now, we determined to risk it; and Fortune favored. Clouds would now and then gather, and spit defiantly in our face, and then speed away ; but, on the whole, the weather for the hours we drove could not have been better — alternate cloud and sunshine — yet the former high and the panorama clean uncovered. We drove through the Kloof — Kloof is Dutch for Valley, Gulch — the depression between the Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. Rising from the town, its houses lay outspread before us. Table Bay, the Cape Town Harbor beyond, with its Shipping anchored out and at the Landing. On one side rises the end of Table Rock; on the other the striking eminence of the Lion’s Head — the Reservoir and numer- ous Villas scattered evei’y where. Reaching the summit of the Kloof, we came in sight of the Ocean, heaving from its seemingly boundless expanse, and breaking in surf upon the rocky beach, whilst Table Mountain extended back along its trend in rugged lines called, in strained vocabulary, the Twelve Apostles. Descending, we passed Camp’s Bay Hotel, a Sea-side Resort, and drove a mile or two, skirt- ing the base of Table Mountain and its Apostles, and then returned, passing the Round House, once the Governor’s Residence, the Driver said, now used as a Hotel ; we continued ujion the Shore, rounding Lion’s Head, which during our drive, with different perspective, assumed different and striking shapes, sometimes seeming a Butte of stratified rock perched upon a bulky excrescence of the Earth. We drove continuously along the Shore, by Sea Point, Danger Point, and several fine Hotels, and other striking sites — now of rugged stone, now of boulders rounded by the waves, now of solid rock cut into long grooves by the waters’ ceaseless chisel. At one place, the Driver called our attention to the wreck of a Steamer, which met its fate nearly thirty years ago, when not a soul was saved in the great dis- aster. The Ocean, to show his power in his wrath, was coming in when we passed with thunderous roar a few rods from the road upon which we drove ; on the other side of us were many j^retty homes, backed by the immediate presence of the Lion’s Head and the more distant shadow of the Monarch Mountain, its summit thronged with flying clouds. It was a sight worth seeing. CAPE TOWN TO KALK BAT. 461 We stopped at the Hausa Hotel, when we I’eached the City proper, to call upon our Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Betz, who had been polite to us, you remember, in Port Elizabeth, since moved and now living here, and had a pleasant chat, and then came back to the Hotel, hav- ing di’iven a distance of, probably, ten or twelve miles over an excellent road. We had a four-seated Carriage and falling top, which we let up and down several times, to meet the humor of the freaky weather; and scarcely had we descended from it and reached our Rooms, when the rain, as if holding up for our benefit, came down in torrents. Same City and Hotel, Monday, July 7, 1890. We had an early Breakfast, and walking to the Railroad Station, by half-past eight o’clock were on the way to Kalk Bay, seventeen miles South of Cape Town. It is on False Bay, your Map will show you, an inlet of the Sea, bounded on its West by the Cape of Good Hope, which projects like a finger into the Southern Ocean. This Road runs into the Cape, and at present is seeking Simons- town, a Naval Station, six miles further on. Like all the Roads in South Africa, it is Narrow Gauge, three feet six, and an excellent one, with good Coaches — for all here are built in Coach fashion — English and European styles generally. For two-thirds of the distance across the Peninsula which separates Table Bay from False Bay, the Country on either hand is highly improved with numerous Country Homes and Villas. Beyond, and where not improved, it presents the appearance of poverty. The lands are sand and swamp, with puny growths, showing what labor and money it must have cost to cover a portion of it with the evi- dences of comfort of which I have spoken. Numerous Villages have sprung up at the various Stations, the chief of which is Wynberg. This, like the near Country on the other side of Cape Town, you remember I mentioned is, likewise, a Wine- producing region, and the Cape boasts greatly of its product. Here is grown the grape which makes the Constantia, regarded by the knowing as a no mean rival of Europe’s best. The Mountain Range, which seems to be an extension of the Devil’s Peak, bounded our West, with undulating outline — the im- provements, and cultivation, and homes in full view, creeping from 462 LETTER NO. 19. the lowlands' up its flanks. After a while we left the view of the Harbor, and came in sight of False Bay, which then continued to extend along our East. Approaching Kalk Bay, the incoming waters break upon the rocks, in numerous reefs, and dash them- selves in many lines of snow-white surf, I don’t think anywhere I have ever seen surpassed in beauty. We thought of taking a Carriage and driving to Simonstown ; but when we reached the terminus of the Road, we could see the place so well, seated in full view upon the Shore, and the whole intervening Country, that we thought the drive would be a useless waste of time. We could see, too, far beyond, how the Mountain Range continues, until at last it forms the Headland of the Cape of Good Hope, the rounding of which was one of the famous events in the progress of the Woi’ld’s Discovery. Whilst waiting at Kalk Bay for the return Train, we observed some children and half-grown girls paddling in the surf; suddenly, whilst we were looking, a heavier wave took them unawares, and swept nearly over them. One of the smaller girls was knocked down by its force, and for a moment submerged ; I thought she would be lost, but her larger comrades^seized and rescued her, holding fast till the wave receded — manifesting a presence of mind quite remarkable in ones so young. Approaching Cape Town on our return, the Monarch Mountain was nearly hid in Clouds, and between us and it a slight shower descended. The Sun behind us, using the rock face for a canvass, painted upon it a splendid Bow, than which I never saw one more gorgeous — seeming to tell us, that the noble thing was there not alone to adorn the Landscape with its Imperial presence, but, also, as a medium through which Nature might convey to us her gentler beauties. I did not return to the Hotel to Lunch, but remained down town and took mine in a Restaurant, and then walked about the streets and visited again the Library, and rummaged through its contents, espe- cially the Donation of Sir George Gray. I found this latter very valuable not only in Ancient and Modern works of Standard Authors, but in tracts and fugitive writings and documents, especially on New Zealand and the Cape Colonies — precious data for the future His- torian. The main Library, also, is an admirable Collection. CAPE TOWN. 463 I then went to the Parliament House, it being near two o’clock, the hour of assembling. The Janitor told the Sergeant-at-Arms of the Assembly who I was, and he forthwith courteously said I should occupy a distinguished seat ; and I was conducted there, through the throng which crowded the doorway and the general seats, whence I had a good view of the House and its proceedings. The Public inter- est represented by this throng is greatly aroused, and the question to-day affected the overthrow or continuance of the Ministry — the Ministry urging the construction of Railways ; the opposition regard- ing such wide-spread expenditure as detrimental to the Public interest. I rather think, from my observation of the Country, the opposition right; for I do not see what the land produces, or can jn’oduce, to support Railways. The Premier was not in the House, being sick ; the Attorney-General, Sir T. Uppington, conducted the debate on the part of the Government, and was responded to by members, whose names I did not know. I did not think any of them manifested any ability, and the talk was very drowsy. I left before it was over, thinking a walk in the open air preferable. But I hear the Ministry were defeated by an overwhelming majority. In the Evening, we attended the Exhibition of Jubilee Singers, or Virginia Concert Company, jjurporting to be from our State, singing partly in behalf of the Hampton Institute, they said. The attend- ance was not large. There are ten of them, highly respectable, well- dressed, and well-behaved, of all shades of color, from clear white to jetty black — the black ])redominating. They have good voices, and when they sang the unafFected songs of their Race, did finely ; not so, when they attempted High Art. But I have heard more inspir- ing Music in our own State from untrained Negro voices, when, in the sensuous exhuberance of their nature, they gave themselves up to the influence of their simple melodies. Same City and Hotel, Ttiesday, July 8, 1890. I called to see Mrs. Carter and deliver a Letter from Mrs. Layard ; but she was absent from the City. I, also, inquired for Hr. Ather- stone, as I did in Grahamstown, that I might deliver the Letter from Mr. Layard. But he, though a member of the Upper House of Parliament, is absent from the City on account of sickness. I will 464 LETTER NO. 19. not now see him to tell him of his Old Friend and his condition, which I promised to do. I wrote Letters to Mrs. William Baker, and Mrs. Nelson, respect- ively, in the tone which incidents affecting each required. I went to the Bank of Africa to instruct the Manager to forward my Mail to Brown, Shipley & Co., my Bankers in London, should any come for me after my departure. I hardly know whether any more will come to me here from you ; for I cannot tell when mine reached you requesting a change of direction. But I hope when I arrive in England to receive some, and I shall run up to London to inquire. I sincerely trust that not a few will await me there. Your last two were properly stamped. But I would cheerfully pay deficient postage and fines to get the Letters. It not only relieves you all of very high rates coming here, but they are well worth it to me. When you began to write to England, you knew all about the rates, and, therefore, coidd make no mistakes. Most of the Papers you sent I will never receive — wandering whither, who knows, or in the waste-basket somewhere. The afternoon I spent in writing some of the foregoing pages, in reading a portion of the five or six packages of Papers that have come to hand, and in resting and lounging. I know of nothing in the Pai)ers worthy of any coannent; maybe I will come across something when I read the rest aboard. To-morrow I take Steamer for the long run to Southampton. Glad of it! you will, doubtless, say; Glad of it! For we can see each other now, with no intervening Countries, across the open Sea ! Could I obliterate the distance, I would be with you without the delay of travel — taking “the Wings of the Morning.” But the time has not yet come when, in Physics as in Morals, the Wish is Father of the Thought. Of course, it will one day — when we, like our “ Sighs,” will “ be wafted from Indus to the Pole.” Pope might have gone a little further, and prophesied as much. [Whilst at Kimberley, Mr. Williams gave me a small bag of Gar- nets, which are found in the earth with the Diamonds. I came ofif and left them by oversight in the Chamber at the Hotel. I tele- graphed to Mr. Seymour to look them up and forward them to me in Cape Town. He promptly responded in the following Telegram, sending at the same time by Express another supply of Garnets : CAPE TOWN—LETTEB FROM LOUIS I. SEYMOUR. 465 “ MEMORANDUM. De Beees Consolidated Mines, Limited. Kimberley, July 6, 1890. To Governor Holliday , — My Dear Sir, — The package of Garnets for which you telegraphed had been jumped,” presumably by some of the servants, and I sent you a package which I happened to have in my Room, hoping it will do as well. I can get all I wish at any time. Hoping you received them, and that you and Mr. and Mrs. Nead are enjoying your trip, I remain. Sincerely yours, P. O. Box 492. Louis I. Seymour.” When Mr. Williams and Mr. Seymour and I parted in Kimber- ley, I told them I would write to them on my arrival at Home. I did so, and several Letters passed — them I here insert as matter of interest, together with several extracts from the Kimberley Papers they sent me, among them a synopsis of one of their Reports, con- taining valuable information with regard to Gold and Diamonds. ‘‘Kimberley, 19 October, 1890. Hon. F. W. M. Holliday , — My Dear Governor, — Your very kind and interesting Letter of 1st September came to hand last week. I am pleased to hear that you reached your home safely and well, and that you carried with you pleasant memories of your visit to our Mines. I am sending you by this mail a copy of our last Annual Report, which has been published since you were here. It may recall to your mind the various operations connected with the winnowing of Diamonds. We are plodding along in the same groove as when you were here, turning out about 200,000 carats of Diamonds a month. Mr. Rhodes, our Chairman, has formed a new Ministry and become Premier of the Colony. I think her leading Banks have succumbed, and to the tune 30 466 LETTER NO. 19. of several hundi’eds of thousands of Pounds. Our young friend Sey- mour lost a considerable amount by one of them. All South Africa’s eyes are turned toward the new Country on the North — Mashonaland and Matabeleland. The Pioneer party has taken possession of the reputed Gold-bearing portion of it and send good reports of the Mineral wealth they find. I hope to make a fortune out of this new Countiy and Diamonds during the next two yearSj and return to the most lovely spot on the face of the Earth — California. Mrs. Williams joins me in kindest regards to you. Trust- ing we shall meet again in the near future, I remain, Faithfully yours, Gardner F. Williams.” “De Beers Consolidated Mines, Limited. Kimberley, October 20, 1890. Hon. F. W. M. Holliday , — My Dear Governor , — Your Letter of September 1 arrived last week, and was a very welcome reminder of your visit to Kimberley,, and, also, that some one in our good Country had thought of us. We received your Letter from Cape Town, and trust that you will not get at all under obligations to us for sending the Garnets, as I can easily obtain any quantity at any time. I was glad to learn that you received them in time. I am sorry to say, that I could not get you the light Photograph that you wished ; but send by this mail two others as near it as pos- sible. When I come home, I will bring you the one you liked so much and exchange it for the one I send now. I, also, send you a Report on the working of the Consolidated Mines, which will, I am sure, be of interest, and give you the actual facts about things. Shortly after you left, we took a house in Belgravia, and are now very comfortably settled and feel very much at home. We expect soon to have a horse and cart, which will, also, serve to increase our enjoyment. We were unfortunate enough to lose a thousand dollars in the Cape of Good Hope Bank Smash ; but do not complain, for there are so CAPE TOWN— LETTER FROM LOUIS I. SEYMOUR. 467 many people here who lost all they had by it, that our loss is trifling in comparison. I expect shortly to assume charge of the Engineering Department in all four Mines, now that things in De Beers’ are in fairly good shape, and then my hands will be full of business. However, as I am happiest when busiest, I do not worry about the extra work. We were sent a slip from the Ledger, written by Mr. Head, in which he speaks kindly of Mr. and Mrs. Williams and ourselves. I am sure we all enjoyed your visit more than you can imagine, and we shall be very glad to accept your hospitality when we return to our good Country again. This, I hope, will be about March 1893, when I hope to leave here to accept a position in London. Mrs. Seymour sends her kindest regards to you, and only a moment ago, without knowing I was writing to you, said : “ Won’t it be splendid to meet the Governor again ! ” With kindest wishes, and the hope that both our lives may be spared for other meetings, I remain. Sincerely your Friend, Louis I. Seymour.” “De Beers Consolidated Mines, Limited. General Manager’s Department. All Letters to be Addressed TO THE “General Manager.” Kimberley, July 20, 1892. Ex- Governor' Holliday , — My Dear Governor , — Your kind Letter of January 20, ’92, came duly to hand, and has been read and re-read by Mrs. Seymour and myself many times. Your visit here started us to thinking in new channels, and helped very materially to get us out of the rut which one is apt to fall into, if not very careful. As a further incentive, I bought Draper’s “ Intellectual Develop- ment of Europe,” Avhich is one of the most profound books I ever read. He must have had a fine brain to have collected and digested all the information it contains. His “ Conflict of Science and Religion ” is, also, an admirable array of facts, and shows up our friends the Catholics in a dim light. 468 LETTER NO . 19 . Mr. Williams has now been away on liis furlough nearly four months, during which time I have been filling his position, as well as my own, and you can readily infer have all I can do comfortably. He went away on a well-earned holiday, and will not be back before the end of the year. I hope to have my own vacation about this time next year : take in the Chicago Exposition, and see my Dear Mother once more. I can truly say, that I owe all to my Mother, and I am charmed that she can be told of it whilst she is living. Mrs. Seymour is perfectly well and enjoys her life here in Kim- berley much better than at first. We have a nice little house, all paid for, in the best part of the town, at the South end of the Gar- dens. I have joined the Club, don’t drink whiskey, am United States Consular Agent, and run up my Country’s Flag, with full forty-six stars, every Sunday. Kimberley is still shrinking, and when the Exhibition is over, it will be dull enough. In truth, the Exhibition will be like the last flicker of the candle just before going out. I should esteem it a great favor, if you can find time to send us a line now and then about yourself. One is never an exile if a friend, one of his own Countrymen, remembers him. Mrs. Seymour sends her best wishes to you, in which I am glad to join. Very sincerely yours, Louis I. Seymour.” California’s Gold Product. Fabulous Contributions from a Single State to the Wealth of the Wo7'ld. [New York Herald .'] Expert miners and prospectors predict that the new South African gold fields, of which the wonderful City of Johannisberg is the com- mercial centre, will, when fully developed, prove to be the richest ever discovered. The character and extent of the deposits in that territory certainly warrant the expectation that further operations will place it among the most famous mining regions in history, its output already exceeding that of any other district of similar geographical area, with the single exception of California. THE WORLD'S DIAMONDS. 469 It is to California, indeed, that historians must turn for the standard with which to ascertain the comparative richness of all other gold fields. The record of that State in the yield of the precious metal stands without parallel in the history of mankind. No other territory ever developed gold deposits so extensive, so rich, or so enduring, nor has any ever witnessed pi’ofitable mining operations extending over such long periods of time. The gold produced in California since 1850 exceeds $1,250,000,000, and the yield at present amounts to about $13,000,000 a year, or per- haps $7,000,000 more than that of any other State. The output has decreased somewhat in recent years, but the decline is due, not to any general exhaustion of the territory, but to the suspension of the hydraulic mines, which of themselves turned out something like $10,000,000 annually. These figures set a high mark for boomers of the South African gold fields. They represent a contribution to the wealth of the World never equalled by any similar area of territory on the face of the Earth. And California, notwithstanding the diversion of vast sums of her energy and capital to profitable mining operations for other minerals, is still turning out more than one-third of all the gold pro- duced in the United States.” “The Woeld’s Diamonds, The World’s stock of diamonds has increased enormously in the last fifteen years. In 1876 the output of the African mines was about 1,500,000 carats, last year it was over 4,000,000, and the great “trust,” which controls all the princijDal mines, assert that they have 16,000,000 carats “in sight” at the present time. Meantime the demand for diamonds has wonderfully increased, and they are higher to-day — partly because of the “ trust,” but also because of increased demands — than they were a year or two ago. In one respect the diamond industry is ditferent from almost all others. Its product — that is, of gems — is never “consumed.” Of gold and silver, a much larger amount than most people would believe is literally consumed in the arts past recovery, but a diamond once cut goes into the World’s great stock, and it is liable to come upon the market at any time. Hence the World’s annual taking of diamonds, which appears to be 470 LETTER NO. 19. steadily increasing, even at advancing prices, is an index of how much of its surplus earnings it can afford to expend yearly in this particu- lar form of luxury. The romance of Diamond Mining is all gone. It is now a matter of excavating vast beds of blue clay by machinery, washing it and sifting out the diamonds, which, after being roughly sorted for size, are sold in bulk by weight. The men who do the actual work are mere laborers, and their pay is proportionately small.” — Boston Post. “The Diamond Mines. How the Precious Gems are Obtained in South Africa. Working by electric light in the desert of Africa, with power fur- nished by coal costing $60 a ton, was the novel experience of George D. Lougstreet, an English Mining Engineer. During a long resi- dence in South Africa, Mr. Longstreet travelled as far into the interior as Livingstone did, visited a number of places which have never been seen by a dozen white men, and in many regions found that he was the first white man the natives had seen. “ The control of the diamond mines by the Rothschilds,” said Mr. Longstreet, “ is entirely due to the over-capitalization of the original companies. Some of them were capitalized as high as $25,000,000. They are now limiting the production of gems to the demand. Dia- monds will never go down in price, and the days of romance in South Africa diamond mining are past forever. In early days the mines were divided into little allotments of thirty feet square, and each of these was sold to a corporation for $500,000 — a neat sum for a little land scarcely large enough to put a shanty on. I have seen work- ing for one company, and in one mine, as many as 10,000 naked Zulus, whose work, oddly enough, was carried on by electric light within a year after it was invented. In those days our chief difficulty was to prevent the thefts of the workmen. We had an overseer for every five men, and yet the beggars managed to steal large numbers of diamonds. These Zulus are born thieves. All the tales of Rider Haggard, whom I knew in South Africa, I have heard often from the lips of the Zulus. “ The mines are four in number, the Kimberley mine proper being but one of them. It is 700 feet deep, and the 10,000 men at work DIAMOND MINING. 471 in it look like mere pygmies. It was originally all one hill, formed by some gigantic volcanic action from below. Long before the chim- ney was dug, a few diamonds were washed from this bill into the streams, where they were discovered. At Kimberley the diamonds were embedded in a strange, hard mud, which had to be blasted with dynamite before it could be brought up. It had to remain a year before the precious stones could be secured. We could not use the crushing machines, for they would crush the diamonds. “ The most beautiful diamond by far that I have ever seen was the one found at Kimberley by a little American named Porter Rhodes. I paid £5 just to look at it. The sight was a liberal education for a diamond expert. He afterward sold it to the Countess of Dudley for 1500,000. It was lost once before it left Africa, and Rhodes pre- sented the Zulu who returned it with a reward of $75,000 .” — Chicago Tribune. “Diamond Mining. Early Worldng. The history of Diamond Mining in Griqualand West is a record of changes and improvements in methods and advices unsurpassed in any part of the World. Passing over the primitive means of manipu- lating the diamondiferous soil employed at the River diggings, and coming to the actual mines discovered in 1870-1, it will be found that there has been one continued state of progression — slow, it is true, but none the less sure. The first workers in the four great producing centres of Dutoitspan, Bultfontein, De Beers and New Rush, did all hauling and lifting by hand, carrying the ground in bnckets and bags from the claims to the Scotch cart, where the depositing floors were at a distance, or to wheel or hand-barrow when sorting was at the edge of the mines. As the excavations deepened, it was found neces- sary to improve, and stagings were erected, on which windlasses, worked by hand, hauled up the ground in buckets. The first horse-gear excited wonder and admiration, and when a steam engine, capable of drawing up small casks, was introduced, men stared open-mouthed, and exclaimed that the engineer had reached the limit of discovery. 472 LETTER NO. 19. The Water Trouble. When, in 1873, water began to accumulate in the New Rush (Kim- berley) Mine, the diggers had full belief in their ability to hold it in check and reduce it by the use of their buckets and windlasses, and week after week they kept steadily at the appointed task, only to have to admit at last that their labor was in vain. Then the Mining Board of the day gave a contract to an amateur engineer, who undertook to clear the Mine, He obtained a small steam engine, some canvas hose, and announced that on a certain date the expectant diggers would see the water flowing out in a two-inch stream. At the hour appointed, a large crowd assembled to witness the start of the machinery ; steam was up and the signal given. After a few minutes of suspense, the diggers turned away, crest-fallen and disappointed, for the canvas, being unable to stand the pressure, burst in all directions, and the experiment was a total failure. Then some old Australian diggers undertook to give relief with long-tours, or simple wooden contrivances formed into pumps. These were made in twenty foot lengths, worked by hand, and intended each to raise the water their own height, deposit it in receptacles provided for the purpose, and thus, by a succession of lifts up the reef, get to the surface. Scarcely necessary is it now to say that this ingenious contrivance also failed to prove workable, and then the iron pipe and pumping gear found its Avay into use. Reef Struggles. The struggles with the reef have been equally numerous and trying, all efforts to get an angle of repose proving abortive. Hauling with buckets, and having locomotives, trucks, and steam navvies, alike failed, and the troubles of the digger seemed at one time likely to become more than he could overcome. Present Methods. When it became evident that mining, to be not only paying but possible, would have to be on a large scale, men combined and formed companies, but even their united resources frequently proved unequal to the requirements, with the appliances at hand, and the skill of the first engineers to be obtained anywhere was brought to bear on the problems presented. Whether perfection has yet been reached it is impossible to say, in an age when there seems to be no limit to man’s DIAMOND MINING. 473 ingenuity, but so far as the resources of science can be made avail- able, they have been drawn upon. There may be, and probably are, more costly plants to be found in other mining centres, but it is ques- tionable whether, throughout the Universe, a more perfect hauling plant can be found than that now to be seen on the North side of the Kimberley Mine. With the adoption of the underground system of working, it was found imperative to concentrate and strengthen the plant, place it farther from the edge of the mine, and sink a shaft of dimensions far in excess of anything previously known. This shaft is now partly in use, and within a mouth will be employed to its utmost capacity, pumping and hauling from the thousand feet level, although it has in reality reached a depth of twelve hundred feet. It is divided into four compartments, two of which are for hauling blue, one for the man-cage to take the workmen up and down, and one for the pumping gear. About two years ago, those who passed along the North Circular Road saw excavations of an extensive nature going on, and were not a little puzzled to understand what they were intended for. After a time, massive blocks of concrete were seen going down into parts of the hole thus made, and the remaining part rapidly assumed the shape of a huge tank. The concrete was made of quartzite taken from the thousand feet level, crushed, mixed with Portland cement in propor- tions of ten to one, and when dry, formed a material as hard as granite. This was the foundation for the machinery intended to be erected, and its total height or depth upwards of thirteen feet. The receptacle adjoining is capable of holding one hundred thousand gallons of water. The wonder engendered by the wide area covered by the massive foundations was not very long-lived, as the arrival of portions of the machinery to be placed thereon told its own tale. Never before had anything like it been seen here, but before making some brief references to the gear, a few words about the smoke stack will not be inappropriate. This was built by Messrs. Joicey & Son, of Newcastle. It is a hundred and twenty feet high, six feet in diameter, and weighs eleven tons. The lower half is of quarter inch, and the upper half three-sixteenths of an inch iron. It came out in segments, a third of the circumference of the stack and four feet in height, and it gives some idea of the resources of the Company and the statf employed to mention a few facts in connection with the erec- tion of the huge cylinder. Within a fortnight of the arrival of the 474 LETTER NO. 19. parts, the whole was in position at the appointed spot. Exactly a week were the men at work on it, and so great was their zeal that they averaged four hundred rivets per diem. The rivetting was done on a bed on the South side of the road, and when all was ready, the work of carrying the monster across the road .and erecting it on the exact spot required, only occupied four and a half hours, and this was done without hitch or accident of any kind. The stack is sup- ported by two sets of inch steel wires, which are anchored to blocks of concrete weighing fifteen tons each. It carries off the smoke from the boilers, and is fitted with an automatic damper regulator, which maintains the steam pressure at the exact point required, without the possibility of danger arising from over -charging. The Pumping Gear, Turning now to the pumping gear, it is difficult to do anything like justice to it in a short description. It has replaced the four pumps at different levels formerly in use, and is capable of coping with the water even if the latter should increase to an enormous extent. The spar-wheel is thirty feet in diameter, and the spokes are about ten feet long, while its weight, with the shaft, is about ninety tons. The machine is driven by a vertical triple-expansion engine of four hundred indicated horse-power. The pump is capable of lifting between thirty and forty thousand gallons of water per hour, or well towards a million gallons per diem, from the twelve hundred feet level. The quantity at present raised is about twelve thousand gallons a day, and this is distributed, by pipes, to the different washing machines in use. The Machinery House. Turning from the shaft head and pumping gear, entrance is at once gained to the machinery house — shed would be a misnomer. This is a building sixty feet long, forty-three feet wide, and thirty-three feet high at the eaves. It is built of the best hand bricks, laid in a mortar composed of quartzite taken from the bottom of the mine and pulverized, and an addition of oue-tenth Portland cement. The side walls are two feet thick, the pressure on them being considerable, and the back and front walls a little less. The floor is, of course, of con- crete, and below it are, in parts, cellars for storage purpose and to give access to man-holes beneath the machinery. DIAMOND MINING. 475 The Hauling Gear. The chief feature of the machinery room is, of course, the hauling gear. This consists of a vertical inverted tandem compound con- densing winding engine of three hundred horse-power nominal. It is fitted with Corliss valve gear, and vacuum dash pots, for the eco- nomical consumption of fuel. The bed plate of the gear weighs thirty tons, and from it rise four iron standards of nearly five tons each, the main crank shaft weighs fifteen tons, and the weight of the whole is very little short of one hundred tons. About a dozen feet from the ground, and supported on iron brackets off the main standards, is the low-pressure receiver, five feet in diameter, twenty feet long, and weighing about seven tons. Each of the engines is fitted with a balance gridiron throttle- valve, close to the cylinder, to cut off steam immediately. The exhaust steam from the high-pressure cylinder passes through the steam-jacketted receiver to the low-pressure cylinders already mentioned. A single lever works all four throttle valves, and a similar lever works the valve of the hydraulic reversing engine. A hand wheel controls a cast-steel clutch on the main shaft, and the rope may be lengthened or shortened at a moment’s notice. Each engine is provided with a vertical air pump, cast into the bed plates, and these pumps draw water and air from the surface-condenser out- side the building. All the water from the mine — nearly twelve thousand gallons an hour — is pumped through the surface-condenser on its way to the floors. The Condenser. The condenser is six feet in diameter and sixteen feet long, fitted with two hundred wrought iron tubes, each three and a half inches in diametei’, and made thus much larger than usual in order to pass candle ends and other small articles which accumulate in the mine. The condenser increases the power of the engines by thirty j^er cent, and naturally induces a corresponding economy in the cost of work- ing. All the cylinders are steam-jacketted, then covered with fossil meal (a very light German non-conductor) to a thickness of an inch and a half; outside this is an inch coating of hair felt, and the whole is encased in a jacket of steel. All valves, both inlet and exhaust, are placed in the cylinder heads to reduce the clearance, and the bottom high-pressure and the top low-pressure cylinder heads are 476 LETTER NO. 19. cast in one piece, in which is fitted Tripp’s metallic packing. The height of this one block of machinery is over thirty feet. The Main Winding Gear. The main winding gear consists of two large reels, about eighteen feet in diameter over all, the first inner measurement, from which the winding begins, being nine feet in diameter. The hauling wire is tape shape, nine-sixteenths of an inch thick, and three and five-eighths inches broad, and it just fits into the reel in the flanges and winds up in the same way as an ordinary tape measure would. The wheels are capable of holding eighteen hundred feet of this rope, so that no larger wheels will be required until more than eighteen hundred feet in depth has been reached. A single foot break for each reel suffices to stop and hold the engine. The main hauling gear is capable of lifting six loads of sixteen cubic feet each, weighing nearly five tons, from the thousand feet level, in forty seconds, including starting and stopping, or five hundred and forty loads an hour, the actual rate of progression when in full motion being over three thousand feet per minute. The engines were built by Messrs. Simpson & Co., of Pimlico, London, from designs made a year ago in the De Beers Company’s Kimberley Offices. The bed plates only arrived here on April 15th, but with the aid of a travelling crane fixed in the side walls of the building, and capable of lifting up to ten tons, such rapid progress has been made that within four weeks the last of the plant will be at work. Saving Their Legs. Entering and leaving the mine by ladders, especially when it gets to a depth of eight hundred or a thousand feet, is tedious, tiring, and dangerous, and it is now intended to employ a lift or man-cage. This will be two-decked, capable of holding thirty men, and doing the distance in less than a minute. The cage is to be worked by two independent drums and gear, placed under the same roof. The Boiler House. The boiler house is a lofty lean-to to the machinery room, sixty feet by forty-five feet. It is already fitted with two horizontal return tubular boilers, each six and a half feet in diameter and eighteen feet long between the tube sheets. Each is fitted with one hundred and eighteen wrought-iron, three and a half inch, tubes. The boilers are DIAMOND MINING. 477 furnished with steel water fronts, having two doors, each fifteen by twenty-four inches. These water fronts prevent the bricks being knocked out by the firemen, and, further, stop the radiation of heat. Each boiler has a mud drum three feet in diameter and nine and a half feet long. The gasses from the furnaces pass under the boilers, return to the front through tubes, and pass back over the top, and in contact with the boilers, to the down take, and from underneath the ground in a brick fine to the smoke stack outside. These boilers at present work the pumping engine, and the fuel used is ordinary fire- wood, thrown into the furnaces in heavy blocks just as it comes from the forest. Three more such boilers are to be placed in the same room, each pair fitted with steam drums three feet in diameter and eighteen feet long, to ensure dry steam being delivered to the engines. When completed, all the machinery on the surface of the mine will be worked from this centre. Other Works. Of the miles of tram line, the washing gear, compounds, and other essentials to the prosecution of the works, it would be tedious to talk, as the details are more or less familiar to residents here, and previous remai'ks have related chiefiy to the new plant, now all but completed. It will, however, be of interest to know that the resources of the Company are equal to much of the work hitherto considered beyond the capacity of Colonial workshops. In proof of this it may be stated that several Lancashire boilers of thirty horse-powei', belonging to the old plant, are being converted into boilers of four times the power. Two are already completed and in use, and three others in process of conversion. How great a saving this is can be readily imagined. Close at hand are the foundry, capable of almost any castings ; the shops with drilling, cutting, and punching machines, and the Nasmyth hammer. Carpenters and joiners fashion the wood required, and a complete electric plant, supervised by Mr. Drummond, supplies the lighting. All is order, regularity, and, best of all, contentment. The chief officers of the Company are on the best terms with all the work- men, know each one individually, and are treated with a respectful freedom, indicative of the best relations. A visit to the works is a genuine treat, and with Mr. Seymour or Mr. Jennings, of the Kim- berley Mine, as guide, the use of every bit of machinery is made clear, and what at first appears a perfect puzzle becomes simplicity itself. 478 LETTER NO. 19. With the new shaft utilized to its full capacity, the other shafts will not be used, but they are to be preserved to serve as exits in the unlikely event of the main shaft being suddenly closed. At the thousand feet level the tunnel communicating with the mine is, by an ingenious contrivance, fitted with an endless line of trucks, and this system is being extended to the surface lines between the mine and the floors, promoting great economy by reducing the number of locomotives in use. The whole of the new plant has been made from designs and plans by Mr, L. I. Seymour, the Company’s Chief Engineer and Acting General Manager. In assuming the responsibility of designing mag- nificent machinery for such an important undertaking, Mr. Seymour must have had a very anxious time for the last two years, but the works are a splendid tribute to his professional skill, and there is now no fear for the result. He has carefully watched, it might almost be said, the fastening of every bolt and the placing of every joint, kept a watchful eye on every detail while giving general supervision, and by the exercise of tact, secured the best services of each man and boy under him, and made all as desirous as himself for the success of the new plant. Early and late, night and day, he has been kept at it, and whatever triumph is his has been well earned. A busier man there is not to be found in South Africa, nor a cooler and more court- eous, whether in the office or at the works. When he goes to the latter, one rapid glance suffices to show him what has been done in his absence, a defect is pointed out in the quietest of tones, with simple instructions how to .remedy it, and the most difficult operations are directed in such a way as to rob them of the semblance of difficulty.”] On Steamship Athenian, The Union Line, Wednesday, July 9, 1890. We came down to the Steamer from the International Hotel in a Carriage, and sent our baggage by wagon, about mid-day. I found my Cabin ready for me, and it was taken by the steward, and all safely stowed. He not only assured me I should have it to myself, but took my trunk and put it in an adjoining unoccupied room, that I might have more space in my own. STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— CAPE TOWN. 479 At Lunch, one o’clock, the Captain — AV. Bainbridge — came and introduced himself, saying he was notified in Port Elizabeth I would be aboard, and invited me to come and take a seat at his table. I declined, saying I was travelling with friends and could not leave them. He then invited me to bring them with me. I thanked him for his courtesy, but insisted on my declination. We did not get off till five o’clock p. m., and in the interim, on Deck, numbers came, and were introduced to me. The American Consul, Captain Hollis, was there to see me off; and I was introduced to General Joubert, Commander-in-Chief of the Transvaal ; to the Editor of the Cape Town Times, J. Mudie Thompson, who promised to send me, to Virginia, copies of the Paper containing a pass between the Consul and some American Citizens with regard to the Invitation of the Negro Minstrels to the Fourth of July Festivities — the Consul having invited them ; these Gentlemen declining to attend with such Company. The Correspondence, with some asperity, arose ; another reason why my avoiding the Festivities was wise — I might have been mixed up in the disagreeable muddle. Our young Friends, Mr. Betz and AVife, came down to see us off ; and Mr. AVolfe, who w’as polite, you remember, to me in Kimberley, sought me out on Deck and told me he would be my fellow-passenger to Southampton, which I told him was pleasant news. At five o’clock we untied from the Landing — for in Cape Town we have one — the exception, you will recall, to all the Harbors, so- called, in South Africa — and steamed out upon our long voyage to Southampton of six thousand miles. The day had been uncommonly fine, and ended with an Evening equally beautiful. Passing out, the Landing was thronged with people to see us off and bid us all Hail ! and Farewell ! and we started under happiest auspices. The Sun set splendidly, and Table Mountain and its flanking Associates stood out grandly, clean-cut against the Sky, Cape Town and its suburbs, with its fifty or sixty thousand people, clustered at then’ base. The Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head rose pyramidally on either side of the level Table Rock, and the Signal Station on the smooth-rounded Lion’s Rump gave note of our departure. AVhilst moving Seaward, the lights were sprung from the houses of the City, and the Stars came out thick-set upon the Heavens ; a little later, and we were with them alone upon the Ocean, and Africa had sunk beyond its waters. 480 LETTER NO. 19. At Dinner, the Steward came, at the Captain’s request, and asked which of my friends I desired to have with me at his table ? I told him Mr. and Mrs. Nead. He said Mr. Wolfe desired, also, to be with me, to which I gave cheerfully my assent, and when the Dinner hour came, we were seated, 1 nearest, on the Captain’s left ; opposite are a Mr. Fisher and a Mr.‘ Pease, prominent men of the Colonies, and a Lady, whose name I did not hear. All these attentions are utterly unsought — indeed, modestly avoided ; why I should receive them, wherever I travel, I do not know. The Ship is one of the finest of the Union Fleet, and the largest, save the Mexican and Tartar, upon the former of which, you remem- ber, I voyaged from D’Urban to Port Elizabeth. This is of three thousand seven hundred and eighty-two tonnage, and forty-six hundred horse-power, and while not gorgeously is handsomely finished and appointed — with Electric Lights. When we passed out of Table Bay upon the South Atlantic, heavy winds and currents met us, and we began to roll, which, whenever I was conscious during the night, was steadily continued. On the Same Steamee, Thursday, July 10, 1890. All night the rolling of the Ship continued, and this morning things had not improved — the currents and the wind fighting her on her course. About eight o’clock she suddenly ceased to struggle, and her machinery stopped. On inquiry, I found somewhat of the same mis- fortune had befallen us that happened on the Australien, you will recall — one of the Cylinders had come to grief. But it was not so bad as that, nothing here was broken, only out of order ; then, we rolled about for thirty-six hours or more ; now, at eleven, only tlrree hours of delay, the good Ship was right again, and we were breasting bravely the winds and waves. Gradually, from hour to hour, they fell, and when Dinner came, the fiddles could be taken from the tables, and the calm surface of the Sea reflected the myriad Stars of a cloudless Sky, and we were hasting rapidly from the Colonies towards the Mother Country, along, but out of sight of Africa’s Western Coast. STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN-SOUTH AFRICA. 481 These Colonies have, in my travels through them, atForded me much of interest. If yon have followed me, you have learned some- thing of what kind of Country South Africa is, and what its future. They have had a History, by no means unworthy of the traveller’s note. There is in them a coming Story of much larger import to the Great Powers of the World, and the solution of problems far-reach- ing and profound. Bartholomew Diaz, in 1486, was the first, sent by King John II. of Portugal, to round the Cape of Good Hope, lifting the Standard of his Country at Algoa Bay. This was six years before Columbus founded our own. In 1497, Vasco de Gama rounded the same famous Headland on his voyage to the Indian Seas, and on Christmas Day came to Natal, as I have already told you. In 1602 the Dutch East India Company sent out a Colony under Van Riebeck, a Surgeon, who planted a settlement at the Cape. After them, came some French and Piedmontese Huguenot Refugees, driven from their homes by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes — many of whose descendants to this day live in Cape Town and its vicinity. These early settlers here met the Hottentots, the Aborigines of the Country — called Hottentots by the Dutch from a word they used in a Song, to which they danced. These people’s dominion extended East- ward to the Gamtoos River, and Northward on the West Coast to Damara Land, and were subjugated and used as slaves and concubines by the vigorous, lusty Hollanders. Beyond this River, they met with the Kafirs, a far superior and more numerous people, with whom, in their Colonial expansion, they came in contact. In 1795 the spirit of Revolution extended from Europe to these Dutch Colonies, and they broke away from Holland and declared for a Free Republic. England lent her aid to the Prince of Orange, and sending out her Ships reduced them under British Rule. Subsequently, shifting from one to the other authority, by the Treaty of Paris in 181 5 the Country became English, and has been ever since. The Dutch, severed for many generations from refinement and Civilization, lapsed into a coarse, uncultivated people, and were desig- nated by the soubriquet of Boers. But, whilst they despised all culture, they did not forget their Religious Faith, and brought with them their Bibles and sacredly preserved them in their Huts. They looked upon themselves as God’s chosen people, and South Africa as 31 482 LETTER NO. 19. the Promised Land, and the Natives as Canaanites, like those of old, to be “ smitten hip and thigh,” and “ made to pass under the harrow,” and consequently reduced the Hottentots and Bushmen, who lived inland somewhat farther North, to abject and harshest slavery. Thus, too, they regarded the Kafirs, when, in their movements Eastward, they came in contact with th%m. It only required a few years of English Rule to dissatisfy this sturdy, uncultured people, and when the British Laws were enforced, especially with regard to Slavery in the Colonies, it was the last straw and broke the Camel’s back. The Boers, thinking they had the right to treat the Natives like the Israelites treated the Canaanites, rose in indignation, and leaving their homes behind them, “ trekked ” or emigrated into the regions farther North, and laid the foundations of what are now the Orange Free State, and the Transvaal or South African Republic. I have already written of how they went to Natal and Griqua Laud West, and how the English drove them thence, establishing Anglo-Saxon Rule. The same fate befell them in the new lands whither they had “ trekked,” and the Orange Free State and the Transvaal both passed under the British Flag, and were so pro- claimed. But in 1854 the former was abandoned by the English, and the people were allowed to form an independent Republican Government, and in 1884, under Gladstone’s Rule, the latter was surrendered, and both are now the Republics of the Boei’s, and under their Constitution and Laws. Within the last few years. Gold has been discovered in, it is sup- posed, enormous quantities in the Transvaal, notably at Barberton in the Eastern part and at Johannesburg near the centre of that Repub- lic, and such tides of Immigration have flowed in, that Johannesburg has grown into a solidly-built City of thirty thousand people. But a Boom was started by the speculators a few months ago, which about the time of our arrival bursted, and things are now flat in all South Africa, just like I left them in Australasia. A different kind of Revolution, however, is going on in the Boer Republics. They, of course, have, like their ancestors, the Dutch, a developed intellectual organism, only lapsed into rudeness, not decay, by neglect; the coming of the educated and cultivated from every part of the World, especially the Anglo-Saxon, has aroused their ambition, and they are educating their children, and particularly STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— SOUTH AFRICA. 483 teaching in their schools the English tongue. In a generation or two they will be brought into closer contact, and will intermarry, and the Anglo-Saxon coming continually in large volume to better his fortune in the Gold and Diamond Finds, will overcome the inborn Boer antipathy and their Country will be conquered with a Trojan Horse. Already evidences are seen of increasing liberality, and soon the Anglo-Saxon will dominate over all South Africa — I hardly think in these two Countries by annexing them as Colonies of England, but rather by establishing Independent Rule. I have told you from time to time of the Country I have traversed. It does not impress you, doubtless, any more than it did me as the seat of a coming nationality of much import. The Mines of precious Stones and Metals, and especially of Coal, which the Geologist and Traveller insist is in large quantities in Natal and Griqua Land West, the Orange Free State and the Transvaal, are of most important con- sequence — the former more especially, to induce the advent of popu- lation, like California in 1849 and Victoria, Australia, in 1851, who, unable to get away, became substantial producers and permanent citizens of the Country, putting it generations in advance of what it otherwise would be. But I do not think the Country itself is valuable in itself, and can never support a great population, for the reasons given when on travel through it. I have told you much in the current of these Letters about the Natives. The Hottentots, an inferior Race, occupied the region of Southwest Africa, the sites of the first settlements. But few of the pure bloods are left; the vices of our Civilization, and their mixture with the Boers, have nearly eliminated them from the Earth. Eveiy- where you see them, their degradation impresses you, and Griqua Land — which means Bastard — presents the last phase of the forbidden Cross of Races, in numerous Albinos — the flashing out of Human Life. The Bushmen, a more inferior Race still, have nearly gone — flying like the wild beasts before the tide of Immigration, till now he is rarely seen, save in the far-off parts of Bechuanaland or the still farther Kalahari Desert. Passing, like all inferior Races before the white man, rapidly away. The Kafirs or Bantus, their sometimes Ethnographic title, are a far more numerous and vigorous people, like our own Negroes, and of many tribes, but wherever I have seen them, always the same 484 LETTER NO. 19. Race — happy; good-natured, docile, gentle, wherever I have come across them. Their habitat is very extensive, taking up at the Gamtoos or at the Great Fish River or at the Kei River, whichever delimita- tion is correct. They occupy the whole Country upon the South and Southeast Coast, and sweeping around the habitat of the Hottentots and' Bushmen to Damara Land on the West Shore of the Continent, and up to the Equatorial Line — a numerous, vigorous and, when first discovered, healthy people. They have, though often sturdily resist- ing, ever gone down before the White man’s arms and organization. Among themselves and against each other they have produced some sturdy fellows who, beginning with Chaca, of whom I told you in Natal, have extended their rule beyond the Limpopo into the Mata- bele and Manikos Country to the Zambezi River and beyond. In Matabeleland, due West from Sofala on the East Coast, it is con- jectured, as I have already told you, is the Ophir of King Solomon and his Temple, and where the Imperial Queen of Sheba lived and reigned right Royally. In the regions Conquered and reduced to Civilized Government, the Kafirs continue very numerous, and are said, like our Negroes, to increase. This is contradicted by many residents, and, of course, no census of late having been taken, cannot be vouched for. All agree that as laborers they are getting worse from year to year, and cannot be educated to persistent effort in any field of work. Conse- quently, thousands of Indian Coolies have been introduced to keep the Farms and other Fields of Industry agoing, though tens of thousands of Kafirs are idling in their Kraals. In Natal, these ignorant people have no control in public affairs ; in the Cape Colo- nies they have the right to vote. The Demagogue is not yet abroad among them ; when he starts, the most serious of all their troubles will begin, and the thoughtful Colonist is anxiously looking for it, in the not far distant future. England and the English seem, in this arena, to learn nothing from experience, and her worse than abortive efforts in this so-called Philanthropic Field count nothing. They must go on, and in violation of Nature’s Laws, continue to destroy. I see from a London Paper, that a great Meeting was held in London, composed of England’s best, to honor Stanley upon his return from Central Africa. I have no objection to paying honor to whom honor is due; but the World ought to be too far advanced, in this professedly developed age, to be making much ado about com- STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 485 paratively nothing. Hundreds of poor Missionaries have, single- handed, done more of the heroic than Stanley, backed by the hurrahs ! and power of a Nation. He professes to have opened a Country and found a people, known better to the Ancients thousands of years ago than he has made known to us, and to have defied Races whom he could whip with a Bamboo rod, or with Gorgons and Chimeras dire ! And all for what ? To lift them up and benefit them ? Rather to parcel out their God-given Lands among competing Nationalities. I know of nothing that has taken place, coming from the heart of our boasted Civilization and Progress, of more significance, or unsiguifi- cance, whichever way«you please to put it. And now, that I have seen nearly all the World and the peoples who inhabit it, if I was asked, what is of most interest to the thought- ful man, and the question, if there be one, which rises above every other of deepest and most vital import, I, in consideration of the ease and rapidity of locomotion, and the wiping out of distance by Steam and Electricity, would answer, undoubtedly, that of Race. Wherever I have been, it thrusts itself prominently before the Traveller. This you will readily recall ; whether I moved among the developed Hin- doos and Chinese in their own or Foreign Countries, or among the un- developed or half-Civilized Savage, everywhere; whether I regard the mixture of Civilizations or the mixture of bloods; whether the inter- mingling of Intellectual or of Physical organisms. Economical inter- ests and numbers, and material forces are much every way ; but these oonsiderations wane before the profounder question of Race. The importance of it is heightened by the ignorance which prevails among those who ought to know ; and its gravity is only now beginning to dawn, when the crisis is at hand, and when the evil through that ignorance has been allowed to spi’ead. In our own Republic it rises above every other in far-reaching and ominous bearing ; it has crept with more or less import into well-nigh every Country over all the Earth. On Same Steamer, Friday, July 11, 1890. All day the Steamer has moved on smoothly at the rate of rather more than fourteen miles an hour, out of sight of land, and with a ■cloudless Sky above and a smooth, quiet, deep Blue Sea around. 486 LETTER NO. 19. Though travelling fast towards the Tropics, we have yet had no sense of heat — the motion of the Ship alone makes a current, freighted with tonic air. . I have around me pleasant associates at the table — the Captain at the head, and a Mr. Pease and a Mr. Fisher, from Natal, and Mr. \¥olfe and Mr. and Mrs. Nead and two or three young Ladies near by, and the conversation does not flag or flounder — covering in its topics, by reason of the talkers’ residences, a pretty much world-wide range. And thus the Ship goes on, and thus do we. * On Same Steamer, Saturday, Jidy 12, 1890. At about eight o’clock this morning we glided over Capricorn, and entered the special dominion of the Sun. But he is still off* on his Northern annual beat, and tlie temperature indicates his absence. The atmosphere is cool and pleasant, and we have no sense of heat upon the Ship. Things on board go quietly, and give me nothing special to write about. Some of the Papers you sent, which I was unable to read on Shore, I brought aboard. Among other things, I read the synopsis of the Supreme Court’s opinion upon our State Debt. Surely, if ambitious to have my Administration vindicated, I have no reason to complain. With two exceptions, it sustains all my positions, and those by no means justifying our Law-makers in the renunciation of the views they entertained when they sustained my vetoes, or relieve them of the responsibility of the dishonor and the attendant evils they have brought upon the State. They, under it, have to pay the Debt, and the sooner they go about it the better for us all. It is a poor consola- tion, that the State sustains its Schools and educates the coming citi- zens by the repudiation of its honest obligations. Whatever the State may say about the Coupons, the Debt itself was contracted before the Schools were created, and the very Constitution which called them into being recognized that Debt and provided for its payment. The Court sti’ained very hard to reach any such conclusion — a complete non sequitur — and it would have been better for the future of our State and people had its position been reversed, and, at least, the integrity of our Schools been spared. It is bad that the funds for STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 487 their support should be filched by such legal legerdemain from our honest creditors. The State might stand a temporary annual repudia- tion of its honest contracts ; the Schools cannot atford to perpetuate such dishonor in its everlasting transmission through the lives of its future citizens. Nor can the Commonwealth atford any more in the Liquor Question to provide for the morals and good order of the community by in the very act providing for their violation. Our leaders ought to stop — it is high time they should — and provide for the honorable Settlement of this far-reaching question. The same Paper which contains these serious reflections on our State’s integrity, contains, also, an account of the joyous Dedication of a noble Monument to one of our noblest men, who was the very embodiment of those virtues, and who would rather have sutfered martyrdom than aided in the infliction of any stain upon the Com- monwealth for which he surrendered wealth and ambition, and for whose glory, with such heroic and brilliant achievements, he offered his life, his fortune, and his sacred honor. 0 Temporal 0 Mores! Consistency, what a Jewel art thou ! On Same Steamship, Sunday, July 13, 1890. All day upon an unruffled Sea — extending to a smooth horizon on every Compass point — nothing around to rupture the unbroken range of air and water. Either to walk or sit on Deck was pleasant ; though no thing of Life appeared on wing or wave. Yesterday morning, about eight o’clock, I think I told you, we glided over Capricorn. Therefore, since then and to-day, we have been within the Tropics. Net, still no sense of heat. This, how- ever, at our rate of speed — three hundred and forty miles a day — cannot continue long ; a few hours more and we will have it hot enough. The Route is nearly straight from Table Bay to Cape Verde, across the great African Bight. The Captain tells me we come in sight of Verde, a striking Headland. I trust this may be so, both in the distance and the time ; for of Nature’s imposing objects, few are grander than this manifestation of the conflict between her forces, in motion and in rest. You and I have witnessed not a few of them in our travels about the World. 488 LETTER NO. 19. We had Sel’vice in the Saloon this morning; a Minister, Mr. Lead- ing, of the Established Church of England conducting and preaching, the Captain reading the Lessons. The Preacher, I am informed, is one of the Brotherhood of the English Church, a man of means, who has left his wealth and home and is going about doing good. He talked, not like an intellectual, but earnest man, and his Sermon was highly creditable — upon the individuality of Christ, ever asserted by Him in His words and works, always in gentlest, though in strongest modes. The Captain has a Chameleon in his Room, which he invited me to see. It is nearly the length of my hand, from tip to tail, and in shape not unlike a Lizard, but of a more sluggish gait and mood. These peculiarities have given a Legend to the Kafirs, and made the thing a creature of Evil omen. When the Great Spirit first saw the human family emerging from the forest, he was pleased with their appearance and behavior, and sent the Chameleon to inform them that they should live forever. In a little while, howevei’, the Great Spirit found he was mistaken, and those he thought so good, went I’apidly to the bad, and he forthwith despatched a Lizard to inform them that he had I’evoked his former decree, and that they should surely die. The Lizard delivered the message in his usual rapid style, and when the Chameleon arrived to deliver his, it was too late — the Decree had gone forth and could not be revoked. The Chameleon, therefore, is, in the Kafir faith, no better than the Serpent in the Christian. I have seen no confirmation in the Papers I have read of the Con- sul’s news with regard to the Defeat of the wretched Blair Bill : the hope I have, therefore, of its correctness is somewhat dusky. After the action of those who rule the destinies of our Country in Recon- struction, defying the teaching of the ages, and in this j)ast middle of the Nineteenth Century — the boasted time of Progress — giving us a Procrustean Bed ; why should they not, with similar wisdom, roll back the Centuries and revive the days of Sparta ? Why should they not adopt all the Children of the Country, educate them in one Common School, and, after a while, clothe them at a common counter, and feed them at a common crib ? On Same Steamship, Monday and, Tuesday, July 14 and 15, 1890. On Monday, olf to the left of us, more than three hundred miles, we passed the Historic St. Helena — not Historic of herself, only as STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 489 the cage where the wonderful creature was confined, to keep him from being again the Disturber of the Nations. I should have liked to have taken it in on my Route; but the regular Vessels do not stop there in their run, only some of what are called the Intermediate, and to have waited for one of these would have consumed more than a month of time, which I could not think of now. Home has more attractions than the Prison Honse and first Burial Place of the famous Napoleon, and the thousand incidents of a wonderful career I could have evoked about his Grave. They tell me, too, there is nothing there now, save those memories, worth the time and trouble of a visit. Longwood is fast falling into a ruin ; in a little while, I have no doubt, it will be hard to tell where the building stood where his fierce and not very noble spirit chafed itself away. On Tuesday, we passed the mouth of the Congo, more than eight hundred miles to the East, such a deep Bight does the Continent pre- sent in the Gulf of Guinea, on the straight base line of onr Vessel’s track. I should not have objected to visit that and follow up the current of the vastest River of the Continent, as I did the Amazon a year or two ago, the vastest River of the World. Now, the Congo and its regions are making a wondrous stir, and are vexing the rapa- cious instincts of our restless Civilization in the inquiry, of what to do with it? We still move onward, right ahead, over an unruffled Sea, the uni- form and unbroken motion of the Propeller continuing to send us over equal distances in equal times. No Birds appear, but the water sparkles here and there with Flying Fish, and its deep Blue tells us of its depth. My Lady Friends invite me to take the four o’clock afternoon tea with them, and they know how to brew it, and I allow it to unloose my tongue and I talk on subjects and in modes which seem not to be distasteful ; and I read and muse, and when the night time comes, I walk the Deck, or standing over the wheel, see it dash the water into Stars. The Hours do not seem to lag — they never do to me on Ship-board. They, each and every one, bring something to amuse or edify, and now that one-third or more of the passage time is gone, I could hardly answer whither, in its speed; I only know, they ai’e exceeding slow to the flight of my home-bound thoughts, freighted with precious memories for you all. I can now look Westward across the Atlantic, with no intervening land between us ; I have not unfrequently done 490 LETTER NO. 19. the same over -world-wide distances across other Oceans, to the Country where we have our home. On the Same Ship, Wednesday and Thursday, July 16 and 17, 1890. Two days more have gone, most pleasantly, still over an unruffled Sea, with equal distances in equal times. Early on Thursday morning we drifted into a fog, which lasted several hours, showing we are in Equatorial Regions ; we might have had a Tropic down-pour — it would have been equally normal for the site. At half-past ten o’clock we crossed the Line, and once again, after thousands of miles of travel in Antipodal Lands, I am in my natal Hemisphere. We have a harmonious list of Passengers, each willing to con- tribute to the pleasure of the other, and combining with the joyous elements of Sea and air to make us a happy family. We have on board a professional Ventriloquist and fun-maker, who, tendering his services, the Captain and other Offlcers uniting, the Saloon was con- verted into a Hall, and on Monday Evening, to a crowded audience, he tried to contribute to our enjoyment. If his performance had not been gratuitous, and it was not both very bad taste and very bad manners to look a gift horse in the mouth, I would express my opinion of him and his success. This Evening, when Dining, we observed through the Ports of the Saloon the performances of a brilliant Sunset. I preferred the Sun- set to the Dinner, and, going on Deck, was gratified. His Majesty was disporting himself with the Equatorial fogs and mists and con- verting them into auroral tints, not alone upon the horizon, but throwing them athwart the Heavens, making splendid a Celestial Hemisphere. There were no clouds, and consequently no varieties of form and color, only the aureate hue tempered by distance into gentler shades. Lingeringly, it waited the coming of the Stars, which one by one peeped out, most conspicuous of them all a flaming Planet in close conjunction with a feeble twinkler, seemingly bound together with the “ sweet influences of the Pleiades,” and the Southern Cross, still dominating, but under the motion of our Vessel Northward, fast sinking Southward out of view. STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 491 I walked the Deck for an hour or two, and enjoyed the scene ; and then the dancers came and made a Ball Room of it to speed the hours ; and I preferring to speed them' in another way, put myself into the lap of Somnus, and was hastily far more oblivious of their passage than the dancers. The water all day was Green, indicating that it is shallow — for when profound, we are told it is always of deepest Bine. Whilst writing to-day in the Saloon, I observed a volume of Ten- nyson on the table by my side. I took up the Book, and opening it at Locksley Hall, read that Poem for the hundreth time or more. Like everything great, frequent communion only makes it the greater — fitted in its range for the lowliest or the loftiest — weav- ing through the story of a human life the Music of the Spheres. On the Same Steamship, Friday and 8okhrday, July 18 and 19, 1890. Friday was a favorable day both for the Ship and us. The tem- perature was everything we could desire ; and the Ship, helped by the currents, made three hundred and seventy-five miles — the longest of her record. On our straight line of travel, you observe, we are near- ing more and more the Coast of Africa. At twelve o’clock m. we were in Latitude 5° 27' North, and opposite Liberia. You will recall this Historic Country. I remember well, when I was a boy, how the American Colonization Society, headed by many of our best and ablest, was actively engaged in sending our Free Negroes there, hoping and believing that they could found an African Republic. The movement was started in 1816 — before my time — and I think with Henry Clay, one of its originators, as its first President. In 1822 it obtained possession of a tract of land on the Coast of Upper Guinea, and named it Liberia, where they induced many of our Negroes to migrate; among the number, you remember, Mr. David W. Barton’s John, a most highly respectable man. John, with more than ordinary capacity for his Race, went with heart full of hope. In a short time he died — as many such exotics did before, and have done since. In 1847, the Province proclaimed itself a Republic, and to the best of the information I can gather, from that day to this, has been going from bad to worse, till now it is only the wretched exhibition of 492 LETTER NO. 19. blasted expectations, and stablest pi’oof of the futility of the scheme. On the contrary, the Kroos, the Natives of the Country, without the veneering of an attempted Civilization, are the best laborers along the Coast, and are sought for by the Vessels navigating these regions — but only whilst and when managed and directed. Left to themselves, they lapse into the worthless condition of the would-be architects of the Liberian Republic, or the older so-called one of Hayti, on our side of the Atlantic. The cool weather continued till Friday, when great heats prevailed, and to-day — Saturday — in the early morning, clouds gathered heavily and soon overcast the Heavens, and sent down what I have been hourly looking for, an Equatorial torrent, and continued thus to behave off and on till after nightfall. But it has not brought cool weather, but rather aggravated the intensity of the heat. I hope the rain may exhaust itself to-night ; for to-morrow morn- ing we expect to pass within easy sight of Cape Verde, the extreme Western projection of the Continent, I am told a fine, bold Headland. I trust the weather will prepare itself for the exhibition. I have been up every morning several hours before Breakfast, in advance of most of the passengers, and talk with the Captain and other Officers, or have a good time with myself. Same Steamship, Sunday and Monday, July 20 and 21, 1890. By five o’clock this — Sunday — morning I was on the outlook for Cape Verde. It was not then in sight, but in an hour or so it limned the Horizon. The morning was very warm, but the Sun was hid behind lofty clouds, and the Vessel’s motion sent a breeze across the Deck and made it comfortable. The Cape is three thousand six hun- dred and one miles from Table Bay. Approaching nearer, we could not have had a finer view. The Continent extended itself just as it appears upon the Map, in a long projection into the Sea, all seeming but little above the surface of the water, save at the extremity, where it lifts itself into two quite ele- vated Buttes, one of which is crowned by a commanding and con- spicuous Light House. On all sides. Landward, the Country sinks into a plain — low-lying and covered with apjiarently large trees — among them, we are told, the Baobab, of enormous spread. STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 493 The Region is called Senegambia, your Map will show, and frona the River Senegal to the River Gambia, taking in the Cape, is a Col- ony of France. On the Peninsula of Cape Verde is the town of Dakar, inhabited by two or three hundi’ed Whites and a thousand or more Negroes, and considered by the French one of the most flourish- ing of their Colonies. Within a mile of the town is the Island of Goree, with more than three thousand inhabitants. The Dakar Negroes are not a particularly interesting Race, we are told, full of superstition, dancing, nudity, idleness, and dirt. We could not see them from the Ship ; we coidd only see the fine Headland their Country made, projecting into the Ocean, forming the extreme West- ward reach of the Continent. Our approach was marked with interesting incidents. We passed the Cape about eight o’clock. An hour or two before, a School of Dolphins filled the water, apparently thousands of them, more than I ever saw at any one time before, and in their somersaults and leaps were joyously welcoming the fine morning. The water was warm — at 84° the Chief Engineer informed me — and, maybe, suited the constitutions of the playsome creatures ; then came the Nautili — Portuguese meu- of-war, you know, in derision called — and spread their tiny sails, in numbers surpassing any of their exhibitions I have seen since, you remember, our voyage from Yokohama to San Francisco; then the Sharks appeared, their dorsal fin and tail showing like two black knives above the monsters’ motion. It was a fine Summer day for the Ocean, and its inmates, wherein to have an outing. The Captain told me he had purposely deflected his course East- Avards, that we might have a good view of the Cape. This was very considerate and kind. Slightly Northwest, and about three hundred and fifty miles away, are the Cape Verde Islands, so called from the Sargosso, which, you know, grows upon the Sea and of which I told you on my Tour to South America. The chief among them are Santiago, the most fertile of the Group, which rises more than seven thousand feet above the Sea, and St. Vincent, the intermediate station of the Cable Line from England to Brazil, and the Coaling Port of the Anglo-Brazilian Steamers. • * On the Continent, to the East of Senegambia, the Soudan stretches like a belt — Western, Central, and Egyptian — bounding the whole South of the Great Sahara — in its entirety, comparatively unexplored. 494 LETTER NO. 19. but, notwithfetanding, famous, because couuected in its Eastern sec- tion with Goi’don’s fateful story. At half-past ten, we had Eeligious Services in the Saloon, the Cap- tain and the Brother of last Sunday leading — very creditably. We met to-day a small Sailing Vessel and a Steamer — the only Ships we have seen on the long voyage. This afternoon was hot ; yet, on Deck, we gathered the breezes and managed to while the hours in chatting, lounging, thinking, napping. Saturday opened with a totally different day. The Thermometer fell many degrees, and from daylight till dark, both head-winds and currents met us, and the Steamer pitched and struggled against them manfully. This has delayed us and reduced our speed many knots. I now fear that to-moi’row we will not reach Teneriffe, eight hundred and nineteen miles from Cape Verde, till after nightfall ; and will, therefore, lose the view of the famous Mountain. We do not stop at the Canaries, of which Teneriffe is one, but pass near enough when in daylight to see it finely. We will, however, continue to hope for a change of weather in time to bring a better fortune than now impends. Same Steamship, Tuesday and Wednesday, Jidy 22 and 23, 1890. About twelve o’clock last night — Monday — we crossed the Cancer, and as I a day or two ago passed into my natal Hemisphere, so, now, I am in my natal Zone — nearer and nearer Home ! Monday night aud Tuesday we were in the embraces of the wind and waves, and carried up and down with their caprices — nearly half the time the propeller whirling in the air, it seemed to me, thns losing us speed and making people in general sick and sorry. Waking or sleeping, I feel no difference, but taking things when and how they come, am therewith content. Crossing the Line, we met with the Northeast tides of air and wave, hurrying to make themselves the Trades and Equatorial Current, and thus, in breasting them, have been handled roughly. Our distance travelled was reduced to two hundred and eighty miles per diem, vacating all hope of seeing Ten- erifPe oif our passage. The Sky, too, was not clear ; and on the evening of Tuesday, mists hung around the horizon and obscured the view. The Captain advised me to remain up, he could not certainly till whether, under the light STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— CANARY AND MADEIRA. 495 of a new Moon, I might not be able to see the noble Mountain, with its cone of more than twelve thousand feet in height; we would hail it, if weather allowed, at ten or eleven o’clock. I did so ; but disap- pointment attended. The Moon sank behind a bank of mist upon the West, the Island was equally hid upon the East, and we steamed on, leaving Teneriffe and its Mountain behind, sulking like Achilles in his tent. The Canary Islands, of which Teneriffe is one, are owned by Spain. They were known to the Ancients, who reached them through the Pillars of Hercules, under the mellifluous appellations of the Fortu- nate Islands, or the Islands of the Blest. The Group lies, you observe, near Africa ; but they do not belong to the Continent, Geologically, any more than Madagascar on the East, concerning which I had some- thing to say when there. These, and those of the De Verde, the Madeira, and the Azores, have been projected from the Ocean by Volcanic forces, and are their own independent representatives. It has been conjectured that they are fragments of the Continent of Atlantis, which poetic minds have conceived once occupied the Sea between Europe and North America, in the same way that Mada- gascar is a fragment of Lemuria, once standing in the Indian Ocean, and of which I have already spoken in an earlier Letter. The Verde, the Azores, and the Madeira Groups belong to Portu- gal ; the last the only place of call for this Line of Steamers between Cape Town and Southampton. Wednesday, the weather greatly improved, and the Sky cleared itself entii’ely of clouds, but the winds and seas fought us still. A little after mid-day we came in view of Madeira, appi’oachiug it from the South. It stretched in a long mountain bulk, of irregular outline in the centre, and falling gradually to the water at either end. Whilst we steamed in, the Sun went down and the young Moon and many Stars came out. Protected by the Island from the wind, it fell into a calm, and happily the Sea settled into a surface smooth as glass. At eight o’clock we anchored within half a mile of Funchal, the Capital of the Island — two hundred and thirty-five miles from Ten- eriffe — its lights sparkling along the Shore and iqj the Mountain. Immediately, the boats came rushing out, filled with the people and their curios, and surrounding our Ship, began climbing up its sides and covering the Deck. This is allowed in the day time ; but after 496 LETTER NO. 19. night, the Captain, fearing their thievish propensities, ordered them to be driven off — which order they reluctantly obeyed. Mr. Wolfe, Mr. Bliimlein, a young German, and I hired a boat and went ashore. Mr. and Mrs. Nead did not want to go after nig-bt and in the crowd. Our venture was not without its dangers. No sooner bad we taken our seats than a crowd of Second Class and steerage passengers leaped into the boat from the stairway, and were near swamping it ; bad the Sea been rough, we would have filled at once, and this Letter would have ended, for there was no chance to return, the Boatmen pushing off forthwith. The weight sank the boat nearly to the water’s edge, but the passengers, under my order and insistence, keeping quietly their seats, and the smoothness of the water relieving us of apprehension, we safely came to shore. Here there was no landing, and the Boatmen jumped into the water and pulled with the swell, which, though there were no waves, came in with long and loud surf along the pebbly shore. Seizing my opportunity, when the swell receded, I managed to land dry shod. We then walked under a dark and unsavory archway into the City, and were soon in the midst of its narrow streets. We strolled to the centre of the town, and saw the Public Gardens and the Cathedral, and the Government House and Bank, and the Town Hall and other buildings of any import, and noted how the streets were well paved with pebbles, worn glassy smooth by time and use. We came across a carriage upon sleds with four seats, drawn by two fine oxen, fat and sleek. We stopped the affair, and taking posses- sion, ordered the Coachman, who walked, to drive us to the Market. The Oxen moved easily with our weight, the sled gliding over the smooth pebbles, with scarce any more friction thau on ice. This is the chief mode of locomotion in Funchal; they have ponies and chairs, but they have not the popularity of the sled. In the Market there was an abundant display of fruits — Straw- berries, Apricots, Peaches, Figs, Passion Fruit, Grapes, and other Tropic and Semi-Tropic growths ; and we bought several baskets full of them for the Ladies on the Ship. And then we visited the Shops, where they have Wicker-chairs, and Baskets, and Tables, and Work- boxes of every style and size, and Silver of quite excellent workman- ship and pattern, and I bought a Napkin King for the Set and a Bracelet for Mary and one as a present for Mrs. Nead, that I thought would please them both. STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— MADEIRA ISLANDS. 497 Whenever we appeared upon the streets, throngs of Beggars fol- lowed us in number and importunity almost equal to those of Malta, and when we came away, escorted us to the boat — not in honor to the stranger, rather in expectation of benefits to be by them conferred. We took care in returning to have the boat entirely to ourselves, which we did, safely and pleasantly. Beceding from the Island, our Steamer, with her Electric Lights shining from her Masts and through her Ports, in brilliant array. Looking backward, the great Rock, a conspicuous object near Funchal, rose dark from out the waters; behind, the Mountain Island spreads itself, a broad background, the City with its thousand lights along its base. About midnight we were under steam again, this time for Southampton, thirteen hundred and thirty-two miles away. Madeira belongs, I have hitherto remarked, to Portugal. It is thirty-one miles long by twelve miles broad. The Group was dis- covered by the Spaniards in 1417, and afterwards in 1419 re-discovered by the Portuguese and hence claimed. It consists of the Island ol Madeira, with a population of one hundred and twenty thousand, and the smaller Island of Porto Santo, and three rocky “ Desertas,” unin- habited and void of vegetation. Funchal has thirty thousand people. Wine was for many years the famous product of the Island, and hence derived its Brand; iu 1852, disease attacked the Vineyards and destroyed them ; of late years they have been replanted, and I am told the Vines have been restoi’ed and the Wines therefrom have recovered their reputation. Coming on from Cape Verde, we pass Cape Blanco. On our right, but out of view, Sahara sweeps across the Continent and Morocco, Northward, beyond the Madeira Islands, till it makes one of the Portals of Gibraltar. OIF to the Northwest lie the Azores, six hun- dred miles away. But we turn Northeastward and seek Southampton across the Bay of Biscay and the Channel. I should not be surprised if rough seas met us on the way. On Same Steamer, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, July 24, 25, and 26, 1890. For these three days the weather and the Sea have been anything but smooth ; the Sky has been overcast, the water dull, with no Sun to respond to. Whales have now and then appeared, throwing their 32 498 LETTER NO. 19. fountains in. the air; a few Birds followed our Ship for a while and then disappeared, and three or four Steamers, going out over the Voy- age we have just made. Nothing has occurred to break the monotony of the Ship — the same routine every day — morning, noon, and night. By this time I know and chat with nearly everybody on board, and in the afternoon take tea with some of my Lady Friends, and talk Literature, or any other subject they please to suggest, and the hours, in some way or the other, are occupied, and do not lag. At Madeira we got some London Papers. I observe in one of them an Advertisement of Brown, Shipley & Co., Bankers, to the Virginia Bondholders to bring in their securities to audit with them, under some agreement of the 12th of May last. I can learn nothing further from this Advertisement. What does it mean ? Have the Leaders, so-called, at last seen the handwriting on the wall, and begun to see and feel the inevitable? When I reach London, I will try to learn something further from Mr. Bouverie, Chairman of the Council of Foi’eign Bondholders, or from my Bankers. The loss of the Papers you sent has entailed this ignorance. On Same Steamer, Sunday, July 27, 1890. Services again and Sermon to-day. Weather and waves settled down and the Ship moving again more than three hundred and twenty miles. This makes the heart of the passengers lighter. We hope to reach our Haven — Southampton — early to-morrow morning. I will, therefore, now finish this Letter and mail it on my arrival there, or with the proper Officer on board this Ship. I will go to London and get your Letters, and if all things are right at home, may run over to Germany and witness the famous Passion Play at Ober-Ammergau, near Munich. This will take a week or ten days. I shall then, at once, return to Southampton and take the first North German Lloyd Steamer to New York. Should the Letters from you indicate otherwise, I will forthwith return by first Steamer and give up the Passion Play. It only takes place every ten years, the last was in 1880. I have, therefore, an oppor- tunity of witnessing a curious Performance, which I ought not to fail to see ; though it is hard to persuade myself to take the time away STEAMSHIP ATHENIAN— SOVTHAMPTON, ENGLAND. 499 from my desire to get back home once more. But you need not be anxious about me ; I am in perfect health, and the week or ten days will speedily pass. My next Letter will be my last, and will be in due course addressed to Charles. It will be finished in New York and mailed there. I hope he is with you, and you can read this and that together. I will, on my arrival in New York, Telegraph as usual, and will stop over in Charlestown a day, when I hope you can run down and meet me. After receipt of this, write, on your usual days, to me, care Bi’own Brothers & Co., Bankers, 59 Wall Street, New York City. All the Letters that reach Cape Town, I have ordered to be sent to Brown, Shipley & Co., London. I will leave orders with them to forward to the United States. At six o’clock we passed an Island olF the Northwest Coast of France, on which a splendid Light House stands. Our Ship signalled to the outlook there, and speedily it was heralded by wire to England, and our coming known. We hope to-morrow early to verify the proclamation. Love to Cousin Mary, and kind wishes to our neighbors and in- quiring friends. With tenderest love for all, F. [No. 20.] London, England, Charing Cross Hotel, Monday, July 28, 1890. My Dear Charles , — This will be the last Letter of the Tour, and, therefore, properly belongs to you. On the Steamer Athenian, I finished No. 19 to Taylor and mailed it at the Southwestern Hotel on my arrival in Southampton this morning. Very early I was on Deck, anticipating the approach to that City. The day was fine, and it was light by four o’clock, from which hour 500 LETTER NO. 20. ' I was on the outlook. Ships thickened on every hanck coming in to feed the great population of England, especially her wonderful Metropolis. We soon, after that hour, sighted land, which continu- ally came nearer whilst we advanced. In an hour or two all the passengex’s wei’e out, glad to greet any land after such a long voyage^ The nearer we approached, the more beautiful the view. On the high shores, residences came in sight — now and then an old Fort or Castle, suiTounded by or embowei’ed in trees, the vegetation making the Landscape glow in the fi’esh moi’ning. Nearing the Isle of Wight, the Pilot came and took charge of the Ship, and guided us up the Solent ; on one side, the Needles — three sharp Chalk Rocks — stood out of the watei’, a Light House at the base of the most Western, whence the site derives its name; near by them the wreck of a large Vessel lay. The Island sti’etched East- ward beyond, crowned with fortifications and villas, and Cowes, over which, farther inward, were seen the towers of Osborne rising above the forest. Rounding a heavy circular fortification on England’s side,, we entered Southampton water in front, the City itself closing the view ; to the I’ight, Netley Militaiy Hospital, a most imposing pile, and the ruins of Netley Abbey peeping from the trees; to the left, the New Forest, of immense extent, the ancient Royal Hunting Demesne, where, you remember, William Rufus ixiet his fate, and a conspicuous tower among the trees, called Hurst’s Castle or the Eagle’s Nest, belonging to Loi’d Montagu, built, it is said, sacrilegiously, from the ruins of Bewley Abbey, which is furtlier inland. A number of Vessels were anchoi’ed in the Harboi’, among them a Monitor, showing its back like a huge turtle, and a United States Training Ship, whose name I did not learn, from which the Stars and Stripes quite gaily floated. We landed at the Wharf, and my baggage was passed without annoyance, and I bade Good Bye ! to the Captain, who had been so courteous, and to the many passengers I knew. Mr. and Mi’s. Nead and I here pai’ted, after our long travel together. They will stop some days in London, and then proceed on the Russian and Cauca- sian Tour I marked out for them. I took a Carriage and drove to the Southwestern Hotel, wdiere I put out some clothing to be washed, mailed the Letter of which I have spoken, went out and nxade inquiiy about my Steamer homewai’ds, on which I detei’mined not to take passage till my ai’rival in London, and leaving my Trunk and Deck SOUTHAMPTON TO LONDON. 501 Ohair, after Lunch, with my Satchel only, took train at three o’clock, by the Express, for this City. The distance is seventy-nine miles, and we made it in one hour and a half, with only one stoppage. I wish you could have been with me on the ride — how dilferent from the New Countries of which I have been writing you on this world-round Tour ! From Southampton to London is one long stretch of greenery, with villages, and villas, and residences, ancient and modern, flashing in one continuous line before the vision in our rapid transit; cultivated fields, and fields in grass, on which Sheep were hurdled — almost invariably Southdown, I observed. Some of the Wheat was gathered and secured carefully in stacks, such as I described to you on my Second Tour, in various parts of England ; but most of the grain — Wheat and Oats — was standing, not yet ready for the Harvest. It was good, bad, and inditferent, much of it injured by the wet season, much of it down or tangled, and evidently in great danger, without most favorable weather. The Farmers of this Country cannot now rely upon an almost never-failing crop like they did, I used to hear, in the olden time. On every hand were the trees, the great ornament of the Landscape, and England’s chiefest glory. We whirled by Aldershot, one of the large Military Camps, and saw the numerous tents, and the soldiers marching to and fro, and heard the martial music, and passed old Winchester, where you went with me, on my former Tour, to see especially its Cathedral and its School, and numerous ancient cottages, grouped or single, covered still with thatch and garlanded with vines and flowers, where many a sturdy life has been begun and ended — more, I doubt not, in former times than now : for England, like ourselves, and indeed most other Countries, under the centralizing influences of rapid locomotion, is fast lapsing from the Country to the Town, and her yeomen becom- ing shop-keepers. How will this tell, when the crisis arises, for the stability of her Empire on Land and Sea ? From this scene of vegetation and quiet Country life, we hurried through the crowded, smoky suburbs of the vast Metropolis, and were speedily put down at Waterloo Station, where I took a Hansom and drove through familiar scenes to this Hotel — from which you and I walked so often, seven years ago, to visit things then new to me. I took a Room and wandered out over Trafalgar Square, near by, where I found a Bronze Figure of Gordon added to the other heroes since I was there. Not far off, I found three new Hotels — the Vic- 502 LETTER NO. 20. toria, the Metropole, and the Grand, immense and elegant afifairs — had gone up since I was here before ; and, I am informed, are always full, such a crowd of strangers are ever coming to see great London’s sights, and the cry is still for more ; and then I strolled along Strand and Fleet, and found them, as I left them years ago, like the River’s current, ever changing, yet unchanged. [When Captain Bainbridge and I parted, I told him I would write to him on my arrival at home, which I did, and received the follow- ing reply, which, for its interest in connection with the Tour, I here insert. Some of the allusions will be better understood in the pro- gress of the Letter. “R. M. S. Athenian, Cape Town, 23 October, 1892. My Dear Governor Holliday , — I would feel ashamed to reply to your kind Letter of 3d Septem- ber, 1890, after my long silence, did not my possession of that missive show the value I placed in your kind words, and, also, my determi- nation to reply to it when I had the opportunity to do so. During the interval that has elapsed, so much seems to have hap- pened, that I feel at a loss where to commence my narrative, so I will begin by saying that I have been following my vocation in command of the “■ Athenian,” ever since we sailed together, and my time has been passed principally at Sea, having diversities of weather, some- times fair and sometimes foul, but with good health and a good heart, enabling me to take the rough with the smooth with an even mind, having many blessings to be thankful for, and a great deal of happi- ness during the time that my glimpses of home and my Dear Wife cheer me on my way and strengthen me to bear “ the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.” My home has been made doubly dear to me by the advent, after eight years of married life, of a little boy, who is now ten months old, and a great treasure, and who keeps his Mother well employed during my long absences. As I completed my fifty years yesterday, it is beginning rather late in life, and I am not likely to see him grow up to manhood. LONDON— LETTER FROM CAPTAIN BAINBRIDGE. 503 Other changes we have seen in English Politics : where Salisbury has vacated the Premiership in favor of the Grand Old Man, whose magnanimity has been shown by his having caused to be shot the sportive heifer which, in his own Park, bowled him over, and who recently would not accompany the remains of his whilom Friend, Tennyson, to his last resting place in Westminster Abbey, because Tennyson said not long ago, in regard to Gladstone’s Home Rule Bill, “ I love and revere Mr. Gladstone, but hate and detest his Policy.” It is pitiable when great minds stoop to the littlenesses of the mediocre — vide, Bismarck, Carlyle, Gladstone. Your Letter told me of your safe arrival at home, and no doubt you were very glad to return there after your long travel round the Globe, and were quite satisfied with what you had seen, notwithstand- ing you were not able to get to the Passion Play at Ober-Ammergau. I heard the place was very crowded, so it was well you failed to get there. I saw you in the crowd when the Duke of Edinburgh laid the foundation stone of the Seamen’s Church. I had a good seat inside and tried to get at you to bring you in, but could not do so before you got tired and had driven olF. The Church has long since been completed, and free of debt, and opened, and is most useful to the Mission and to the Seamen who run it. I am glad you liked Netley ; the ruins are not over-extensive, but the surroundings are very beautiful and peaceful. I and my Wife and Mother and Sister often drive out to Yetley on a Summer after- noon and spend hours there, until the heat of the day has passed, and the drive home along the water in the cool of the evening is the very pleasant ending of a lovely day. I saw Tintern Abbey during last Summer. It is on the banks of the Wye, near Monmouth, and is most charmingly situated; but, somehow, I like Netley much better. We have been troubled all the World over with the Cholera scare, and I am surprised at the way people distress themselves on the sub- ject. I suppose I have seen so much of it in the East, that I feel used to its presence. I sincerely hope that no new complications will come from the disease next year, as it will be a great pity that any- thing should come to mar the wonderful World’s Fair at Chicago. 604 LETTER NO. 20. I should greatly like to be there ; but I know the pleasure is unat- tainable by me, and so must be content. They are running a very mild atfair here, as the Kimberley Expo- sition ; to that I would not go if I could. Now, my Dear Governor, I must close this mail, hoping it will find you well and hearty, and should you at any time have a moment to spare and inclination to send me a line, be sure it will be received with much pleasure. With all good wishes, Yours very faithfully, William Bainbeidge, Commanding R. M. 8. “Athenian.” Address: Captain Bainbridge, Winterbourne, London Road, South- ampton, England.”] Same City and Hotel, Tuesday, July 29, 1890. First thing this Morning, I went to my Bankers, Brown, Shipley and Company, to get my Mail. Good fortune attended me and I received a considerable number, both of Letters and Papers. I will recite them : one from you of July 1 ; one from Mary, July 13; from Margaret, June 15, June 21, June 29, July 5, July 12; from Tay- lor, March 20 — forwarded to me from Melbourne by my Bankers there — June 19, June 27, July 3, July 11, July 17 ; the Papers I will take aboard and read on the passage. On my walk to the Bank, I stopped at Thomas Cook & Sons and inquired about my trip to Ober-Ammergau. They told me things were so crowded there, that I could not get accommodations before the latter part of August. This settled the question ; I will not wait, but will go on home by the earliest Steamer of the North German Lloyd Line from Southampton. During the morning, I went to the Office of that Company and engaged a State-Room on the Werra, leaving next Sunday. I will, therefore, be fast behind the Letter I mailed upon my lauding a day or two ago. Whilst at the Bankers’, I inquired about the Advertisement con- cerning the Virginia Debt. I was directed to the persons in the Banking House having the matter in charge. They advised me of LONDON. 505 the condition of the entire business. The State has taken no action whatever ; the whole thing proceeds from the outside friends of the Commonwealth and the Creditors. Now, I am sure, is a fine oppor- tunity for our people to come to terms. Will they do it ? or shall we drift farther and farther into disorder and discredit? I could give them no information about the state of Sentiment there, not having had any Papers for months. One of the Gentlemen went with me to the Office of the Council of Foreign Bondholders. The Secretary received me most cordially ; but he informed me that both my old Friends, Mr. E. P. Bouverie and Mr. Francis Bennock, were both dead : — the former died last December, the time of my departure upon this Tour ; the latter died on the Train about a month ago. Sir John Lubbock has succeeded Mr. Bouverie as the President of the Council. I am not acquainted with him, and he was not in at the time of my call. I do not know what manner of men have the affair in hand here, and can, therefore, prognosticate nothing about the result. Walking down Strand, a gentleman came up and cordially saluted me. I recognized the gentleman, Mr. Nugent, you remember, I met in South America with Colonel Guinness, with the latter of whom I travelled across the Continent. He proposed to entertain me, living in London or near; but I declined, giving him my stereotyped reasons. He said Colonel Guinness was again assigned to duty in the British Army; which he greatly desired. Coming to my Room, I had a good time reading the Letters. I was greatly in hopes you were in Winchester with Taylor; if not now there, I trust you will be on my return. Run up forthwith — congratulate Louise both upon her success, scholastically, and her health, physically — the latter chiefest of all. And I heartily con- gratulate you and all the members of both households upon your hygienic condition. To Margaret: Your Letters were equal to a Gold Find. You have photographed for me things at your and the Old Home and in Society genei’ally. You can, when I return, fill in with the materials of the lost Letters re-told by word of mouth, and I will have a perfect picture of the events which have transpired since my departure. I will postpone comments till we meet, which will be shortly now. You are glad of it ; so am I. 506 LETTER NO. 20. To Taylor': Your account of the Farm is, on the whole, favorable; bad at lioine, not having a Cook. I greatly fear our old town will suffer heavily in what, to me, seems a silly Boom. Of course, the Hotel scheme is and will be a failure. It will not now be built ; and if built, will be a fatuitous effort, from which no good can result. It is too far away from the centre of the town to be of any avail to its business. As a Country resort, there are too many such places already ; nearly every one of them is bankrupt, and so will this be, should it ever get under roof — of which there is no possible chance, unless Judge Hanley builds it, which, with his experience already, he will not be apt to do. Poor old Winchester ! those professing to aid her, not only fail in that, but overreach themselves. Ever since I left the Continent of America, I have been travelling through ' the boomed-wrecks of Countries and Cities. We cannot stand the re-ac- tion from a Boom ; we are altogether too poor. On my walk along Strand, Fleet, Ludgate, and Cheapside to the Bank, I passed St. Paul’s, standing amid the thoroughfares — majestic and dirty as ever — smeared over with soot and grime from the breath of the great City it dominates. I walked through its so-ealled Church Yard, looking more trim and cleaner than I ever saw it : the grass and flowers washed and fresh, the few benches filled with people of both sexes and of every age, snifiiug their fragrance amid the tide of the “ madding crowd,” flowing ceaselessly around them. And then I went in and wandered about, and refreshed my memory, from burly Sam Johnson, clad with such bad taste in a Roman Toga, to the “ gaunt figure of the Old Field Marshal,” lying grim upon his Bier, just as when the ‘‘Destroyer” crept into his Chamber and struck the fatal blow. In the afternoon, I wandered to the Parliament Houses, and pass- ing by the huge and I think tawdry Pile, contented myself with looking into Westminster Hall, born nearly a thousand years ago, worth in its magnificent proportions all the rest together, and filled to bursting with the incidents and utterances of a great Nation’s life. And then where else could or should I go but to Westminster Abbey, near by. I strolled and lingered in its every part. But I will not now, any more than elsewhere, bother you with a twice told tale. You and I had enough of description on my Second Tour, But whilst I will not tell it, I enjoyed even more thoroughly than before ; for there is such a volume of memories and life-times here. LONDON. 507 that any number of readings will not exhaust. When I saw it for the fii’st time, it was simply the revival of what I seemed to have seen at some former period ; now, it is still more like the meeting with a familiar friend. And then I went among the living on the Victoria Embankment, and Westminster Bridge, and saw the crowds enjoying the delightful evening, either upon the shore, amid the trees and flowers, or on the little. Excursion Boats, steamiflg up and down the River, whilst the Obelisk, guarded by the Sphinxes, looked at the young and giddy ways with fateful faces, from the Ages, which were old when our Christian Era started upon its career. And then the Sun warned me that the day was done. Same City and Hotel, Wednesday, Jidy 30, 1890. I forgot to say, that whilst in Westminster Abbey yesterday, I saw a gentleman wandering like myself among the Tombs, whom I took for my Friend Mr. Layard, and thus addressed him. He responded, that he was not Mr. Edgar Layard, but his Brother. I found I was speaking to Mr. Layard of Ninevah fame. We had some talk, in the course of which he told me his Brother was much better, and he hoped not in such danger of his life as he supposed. This Layard is simply on a visit here. He lives in Florence. I sent word by him to my old Friend that for want of time I could not get to see him. In this connection I will say that I can hardly expect to meet with Mittie and Anson and John Hooe and their Brides; though stranger conjunctions than even that have occurred to me on my travels. I should like to see them in their happiness on their wanderings. I have had another busy day. I again went to my Bankers’, and left an order to forward all Letters and Papers hereafter received to Brown Brothers & Co., New York ; there I will receive them, or they will be sent to me, leaving no fragments, at least of these later Letters, floating helplessly. I drew enough of money to pay my Steamer fare and answer my purposes till I reach New York. Then I came back to the Ofiice of the North German Lloyd and took my State- Room on the Werra, the Agent promising I should not be disturbed 508 LETTER NO. tiO. in my sole 'occupancy. This again is both courteous and fortunate. The Shi2>, you remember, I crossed the Atlantic on once before. Having fixed these business matters, I visited the National Gallery of Painting, and revived my memory of it. There are many of Rubens’ upon its walls, with his fat, gross, Dutch women and chil- dren, and strong men ; of Rembrandt, with his uncommon genius gleaming through the seemingly fading figures — the more suggestive by reason of this artistic trick ; of Hogarth, the full set of his Marriage a la Mode; of Turner, apparently dashed npon the canvass in an agony of effort to depict the impossible, stirring the kindred flame of Ruskin into a frenzy of admiration. But I am doing what I resolved not to do — give any description of things and scenes of which you heard, some time ago, enough. For are they not written in the Second Tour? I then entered a Hansom, and made the Driver take me to Five Dials, which has been entirely renovated, the old Buildings in the main pulled down and a grand New Theatre and other fine structnres erected upon their site ; then to Seven Dials, a sorry spot once upon a time, like onr New York Five Points, cleaned up much since I was there, but not wiped out by projected Avenues aud Boulevards, as I had heard ; then to Drury Lane and Covent Garden, and on to Smithfield Market; and thence to Whitechapel Road, where Jack the Ripper has of late been committing his ghoulish crimes — a wide, fine thoroughfare, presenting in its appearance and population an earnest entreaty for cleaning up, like the late famous Seven Dials ; and then by the Tower of London and St. Paul’s, historic spots and things; then to the Juvenile Aquarium. Passing rapidly through the sti'eets, I noticed some of my Christ’s Church Hospital Boys, with their yellow legs and bare heads ; and, also, some of the West- minster School Boys, in their trim modern costume and shiny hats — tlie Hospital Boys without any, the latter with far too much of that head covering to be comfortable or attractive. This morning I went to aud from the Bank on the top of an Omnibus — a favorite mode of locomotion along Strand, Fleet, Ludgate, and Cheapside for strangers and the boys, and even grown people of the City, for the charge is only a Penny, and from the lofty perch a good view is had of the surging tide in the very heart of the marvellous City. The Aquarium was full of people, come from the World’s ends to while an hour. It is an “ Omnium Gatherum.” This time, among other permanent curiosities, a grand display of Flowers ; and Lon- LONDON. 509 don, though not a Land of Flowers, can make a brilliant show when called upon : you remember that at Regent Park when I was here before. And there, too, were all sorts of performances — Singing, Pantomime, Magic, Slight of Hand, Trained Dogs and Bears, Vault- ing, Rope Dancing and Walking, by men and women, and various other startling things, each following the other in rapid sequence, making the whole, with the applauding audience, seem sure enough the vainest of Vanity Fairs. Just across the way, a few yards ofF, stands Westminster Abbey, where the Nation’s Great ones rest in Solemn Silence. A little further still, on either hand, their successors in Parliament and on the Throne are struggling to preserve that order which makes all this vanity possible, even in its apparent iucon- gruity. The Sun lingered, and England’s long twilight enabled me to walk through St. James Park to Buckingham Palace, at the farther end, returning by St. James Palace and Marlborough House, enjoying far more than the displays of Royalty and its attendant Art, the rich luxuriance of Bonny England’s vegetation of trees and grass. Even upon my first visit, I seemed to see nothing new in things around me ; rather the revival of the Long Ago. Then, I simply felt that I was giving to my memories a “ local habitation ; ” now, whilst I wander listlessly, the scenes about me are alive with familiar knowledge, and the atmosphere is laden with its fragrance. Southampton, England, Southwestern Hotel, Thursday, July 31, 1890. I had Breakfasted at the Charing Cross Hotel and was in the Reading Room, when feeling some one touch my shoulder, I turned, and recognized Mr. Fletcher, my travelling companion, you remem- ber, of the Steamer Australien, with whom among others I parted at Mahe. We had a cordial meeting and a pleasant chat. I had already made my arrangements to come down here, thinking I could spend the few intervening days before I take the Werra more pleasantly and profitably in and about this City than in Ijondon. I, therefore, invited him to come with me in my Carriage to the Station, that we might prolong our conversation. He consented, and settling my bill, we rode to Waterloo Station together, and taking a seat with me in 510 LETTER NO. SO. the Car, talked till the time for the departure of the Train. He is going to Ireland, and is longing to return to Austi’alia as he longed to coniQ from Australia to England. He is in that nervous state from overwork, that no place or rest satisfies him. Overstrain is a grievous trouble. Scarcely had I bade him Good Bye ! when a gentleman sitting near, hearing from our talk that I was from the United States, introduced himself to me as a fellow-citizen, and presented his card, introducing at the same time his Son, — Charles Laurence, Harbor-Master, Port of Philadelphia. He is in charge of the Training Ship, you will recall, I spoke of as being anchored in the Hai’bor when we steamed in to Southampton. I took it to be a Training Vessel from Annapolis, of Cadets in the U. S. Navy. I was mistaken. It is a U. S. Ship, but lent to the State of Pennsylvania and the City of Philadelphia under recent I^aws, to enable that State and City, by contribution of their authorities, to educate and fit young men for their Merchant Marine. Young Officers of the Navy have been assigned to duty on it as Instructors. New York State and City has, also, a Vessel under similar conditions and for similar purposes. They are the only two of our States and Cities which have entered upon the scheme ; but it has a business-like look towards inaugurating the building up of a Merchant Marine, which, you know, before the War, was next in magnitude to Great Britain in the carrying trade of the World. May this movement result in success ! — in the present status of affairs, of vital import to the future of our Country. I had much pleasant and profitable talk with Mr. Laurence about it, which I have not time to detail. We parted in Southampton : he to go to his Ship, I to come to this Hotel. After Lunch, I walked out to see the town. It claims more than sixty thousand people, and is by no means an unimportant place in History. Here Canute the Dane landed, and gave exhibition of the moral and religious force that has made the Northern Nations strong, in spite of the attempt to overthrow that force by his Courtiers, which the Persian Monarch in the more ancient days was unable to resist ; here, in 1189, Richard Coeur-de-Lion departed with his Crusaders for the rescue of the Holy Land; here, in 1385 and 1415, Edward III. and Henry V. set sail for the invasion of their hereditary enemy across the Channel; here Philip of Spain, in 1554, landed, for the intended capture of England through her Queen ; here the unhappy, ill-fated, SOUTHAMPTON. 511 Charles I. once lived; here the Pilgrim Fathers embarked upon the Mayflower, to seek a home beyond the Sea, and unwittingly to help lay the foundations of a mighty Empire. Southampton claims some incidents in History of mighty import, of which she is justified in cherishing the remembrance. I pedestrianized the town. Save these Historic memories, it has not much to interest the stranger ; — they were of such a nature, that in passing, no memorial was left. Its chief thoroughfare is High Street, spanned by Bar Gate, a massive, well-built and well-preserved remnant of the old City Walls. Beyond it, the street extends and terminates in a large Park, an ornament to the City. On one hand stands a Statue of Palmerston, once a Burgess of Southampton and Representative in Parliament, and Premier of England, of whom they are, and reasonably, very proud ; on the other hand, and a little farther removed, is one of Isaac Watts, more famous once than now, as the sweet Singer of the Church. What would our friends the Presbyterians have done without him in their Theologic, somber days, before they took on Scientific Music ? Same City and Hotel, Friday, August 1, 1890. The day has been an interesting one, and every hour occupied. I visited New Forest and Bournemouth : the former called New, though existing under that name since the Conqueror, established by him as a Royal Hunting Demesne ; the latter a modern Place of Resort upon the English Channel. I left Southampton about nine o’clock by Train for Lyndhurst Road Station, eleven miles, situated in the New Forest. Here there is an excellent Hotel, from the Proprietor of which I hired a Landau, a light one-horse four-seated affair, with high perch outside for the Driver, and falling top ; my horse was a fine one, and my Driver a trim Britisher in livery — blue coat and brass buttons, with buff breeches and fair top boots — quite a swell turn out for a plain Repub- lican, but admirable for comfort and observation ; and why shouldn’t a Republican enjoy these things if he can ? for is he not one of seventy millions of Sovereigns? This is the largest of the Crown lands now remaining in England. It covers in area ninety-one thousand acres — twenty-six thousand of 512 LETTER NO. SO. it now belong to private owners, whose residences ai’e scattered over the whole in villas, in villages, in handsome residences, and humble homes. Some of these are modern, with all the appointments of our modern Civilization ; some are venerable, with thatched roofs, the walls covered with Ivy, Morning Glory, Roses, and other vines and flowers, peeping out from Times whereof man’s memory runneth not, and looking like the English cottages of which one reads : guarding the story of generations of humble but worthy people, if not with the maternal strength, with the sanctity of a Castle. My Driver was a knowing one, and giving him the rein, he drove me over, or by, every point of interest in the Northern part of the Forest, and by admirably graded roads; Bartley, a straggling old- timey English village, with every phase of home-like rustic beauty ; then through open fields and forests alternating, to Minstead ; mov- ing Westward, and rising on higher ground at Stouey Cross, around me heather bloomed, and turf grew and was cut and piled for fuel, and from the elevated site a view opened over forests for many miles around, towards the East, bounded by the gleam of Southampton Water. Not far from the summit at Stoney Cross, I got out of the Carriage and descended to a vale below, and was interested in viewing the spot where King William Rufus met his fate — struck by an arrow sped from the bow of Walter Tyrrell. He was one of the King’s attendants in the Chase, and the mortal wound was accidental. A triangular Iron Case five or six feet high encloses the stone which was put to mark the spot, and upou its three faces, in raised Roman Letters, are the following Inscriptions, which tell the memorable story : “ Here stood the Oak Tree, on which an Arrow, shot by Sir Wal- ter Tyrrell at a Stag, glanced and struck King William II., surnamed Rufus, in the Breast, of which he died on the second day of August, 1100 .” “ King William II., surnamed Rufus, being slain, as before related, was laid in a Cart belonging to one Purkis, and drawn from hence to Winchester, and buried in the Cathedral Church of that City.” ‘‘ That this Spot, where an event so memorable had happened, might not hereafter be forgotten, the Enclosed Stone was set up by John, Lord Delaware, who had seen the Tree growing in this Place.” NEW FOREST. 513 “ This Stone having been ranch mutilated, and the Inscriptions on each of the three sides defaced, this more durable Memorial, with the original Inscriptions, was erected in the year 1841 by William Sturges Bourne, Warden.” Though Tyrrell’s shot was purely accidental, he deemed it safer to fly across the Channel, for he felbhow unsafe it was in those days for a man who had even by misadventure invaded that Divinity which doth hedge a King ” — though King Rufus left no one to shed a tear upon his grave. But whether designed or accidental, the Fates chose a beautiful spot whereon to consummate the deed. Around it now, venerable trees stand singly or in clumps, painting their shadows upon the rich green sward; and tables and benches are strewn about, where a woman, who sold me a Photograph of the Scene, told me crowds assembled from time to time to have a Picnic : in their jollity, many, doubtless, not knowing so much as even who Rufus was, and now, in this eight hundredth year since the deed was done, caring less. Then we drove on to Boldrewood, three miles further, through Mark Ash, at both which places there are magnificent groups of Oak and Beech trees ; then to Knightwood, where, among other trees of younger life, there stands a monster Oak ; then on through the village of Lyndhurst, where I stopped to visit the Parish Church — a modern structure, worth seeing for the Fresco of Sir F. Leighton, President of the Royal Academy, of the Parable of the Wise and Foolish Vir- gins, forming an Altar Piece of the Church. It is certainly beauti- fully conceived and executed. Whilst in Lyndhurst, a four-horse English Stage came dashing in from Bournemouth, with twenty on top, heralded by a horn. It was a lively sight, and the men and women from their high perch were gaily as the horn. Lyndhurst is the village from which Copley took his title, when elevated to the W oolsack, and is the centre and capital of the Forest. It is surrounded and seated in the midst of scenery which ever in- duces in me the desire to stop and linger, and by myself, regardless, to make or waste my time. Three miles more brought us to Lyndhurst Station, whence we started ; with fine Roads and our good strong horse, we made the distance of twenty miles, including stoppages, in something over three hours — by this time half-past one o’clock. I was not at all fatigued, and ordered my Lunch, and the Carriage and Driver again, with a 33 514 LETTER NO. 20. ■fresh horse, 'for the afternoon ; and at two o’clock we were off once more — this time through the Southern portion of the Forest. We drove to Beaulieu — pronounced Bewley — Abbey, on the River Exe, nine miles. This Abbey was founded by King John in 1204, and belonged to the Cistercian Order. The property is now owned by Lord Montagu, I believe a son of the Duke of Buccleugh. He occupies the Abbot’s House — now called the Palace House — which he has repaired and modernized, and which to-day was decorated, my Driver said, in honor of the anniversary of his Silver Wedding. The Abbey we came to see — or rather its ruins, for nothing else is left — stands outside of the residential enclosure; but both are surrounded by one of those Baronial Parks, which are England’s special glory. Two young Ladies came whilst I was there, and the Head Gardener showed us through the Ruin. But I have told you a quantity about such things on my Second Tour and will not stop at this ; for what is left by time and the despoiler amounts to very little. The Church is gone ; the Ruins of the Refectory and the Dormitories and a few other remnants are there. The stones have been taken away for othei*^ structures — especially, I was told, to build the Eagle’s Nest, which looked out charmingly at us from the trees when we were coming in the other day, in full view from our Ship, steaming up the Solent. From the Abbey we drove to Brockenhurst, six miles, to catch the Train to Bournemouth, fifteen miles further. I here dismissed my Carriage and let it return to Lyndhurst Road Station by a shorter route than the one we came. I was somewhat delayed by the Train being behind time; but taking it upon arrival, went on to Bourne- mouth, fifteen miles. This is a Sea-side place of Resort, situated on the English ChanneL It is comparatively young, but has grown with wonderful rapidity, reminding one of some of those in our Country. Immediately upon my arrival I hired a Landau, and told my Driver to take me through the town and to the Piers and Esplanades. This he did with all the speed his horse could make. On my former Tour I wrote of a number of similar places upon the Coast — Scarborough, Margate, Ramsgate, Hastings, Brighton — but none of them, in some respects, surpass this mushroom growth. It has not the splendid heights and fine sweep of Sea of Scarborough, nor the brilliant stretch of elegant structures along the Shore which older Brighton presents ; but it has quite considerable Cliffs, which look out upon the Channel — to-day SOUTHAMPTON. 515 in glassy repose to the Coasts of France ; and the hills and uneven ground upon which the interior town stands, have been most taste- fully laid out into Parks and Gardens and thoroughfares, adorned with handsome and costly structures. Bournemouth now is one of the most interesting and beautiful Watering Places I know in Eng- land. It covers much ground, too, extending along the beach for several miles. If I had had the time, I should not have objected to staying over a day or two. But to-morrow I have other objects to see, and the next, the Steamer leaves. Returning to the Station, I took Train for Southampton, reaching here, thirty miles, by nine o’clock ; but the clouds, which hung off and on during the day, had clean gone, and England’s twilight linger- ing, it was not dark. The distance travelled in various modes was about ninety miles, and of most varied entertainment. I wish you could have been with me through the shifting scenes of constant move- ment : the Ancient Forest where the axe has never been ; the time- worn villages, looking quaint and quiet in their old-fashioned dress and head-gear ; fields covered with velvet grass, or graceful fern, or the heather in its bloom ; hale and healthy-looking people, children fat and sleek, whose costumes did not know at all the cut and gait of City life ; monarch trees, whose spread of limb was wonderful, or the young ones growing on the spot where their progenitors, century after century, had fallen and fructified the soil ; ruins which, if they had a tongue, could speak more knowingly and eloquently than any History ever written. How would your nerves and legs have stood it? Mine seem never to weary. I impose upon them labors which to most would seem burdens grievous to be borne, but they never fail. Un- like our friend Levi, who said he ate a peck of green apples, and a watermelon, and several cucumbers, and roasting ears, and drank a quart of buttermilk, and at night had the Cholera Morbus — and wondered what gave it to him ! Same City and Hotel, Saturday, August 2, 1890. I visited Netley Abbey this morning. We saw its site from the Vessel’s Deck when coming in, not a great distance from the big Military Hospital. It is a drive of about three miles from the Hotel. 516 LETTER NO. 20. I took a Landau and went there. Southampton lies between two Rivers — the Itchen on the East, and the Test or Anton on the West — both flowing into Southampton Water, We crossed the former on a Boat called a Floating Bridge, and drove along Southampton Water — the Harbor and its Vessels on the right, and luxuriant vegetation of trees and hedges and plants and flowers on the left. We pass a hand- some Home, with extensive and highly improved Grounds, where a Mr. Chamberlain lives — who owns, also, Netley Abbey. We passed the Abbey and drove on to the Hospital and through its Grounds, and found the Institution quite as fine an affair as it appeared from the Steamer — a large brick ornamented structure, built just after the Crimean War. Returning to the Abbey, I paid it my respects. On one side of the Road stands Netley Castle, reformed into modern proportions, and setting soberly and silently in its enclosure like any other thing in Art or Nature which time and merit have refined and mollified into quiet confidence ; on the other side, a few paces from the thoroughfare, stand the Ruins of the Abbey, speaking most eloquently and seductively for themselves. The Abbey was of the Cistercian Order, and an offshoot of the great Beaulieu, whose wrecks we visited yesterday. The Ruins here are much greater than those of the Parent Institution, and of much greater interest and beauty — “ Filia pulchrior pulcherima Matre.” Indeed, I have seen in England few if any of these marvellous spots, save Fountains Abbey on Second Tour, of greater charm. Those old Monks were knowing and cultivated men in their day and genera- tion ; with a genius for the Esthetic manifested in their Castles, and Cathedrals, and Abbeys, and Monasteries, which find no counterpart in recent effbrts on earth to-day. They knew how to make life com- fortable, if not luxurious, whilst laying their plans for the conquest of the World, and strengthening the bonds of a Rule, which, in force and perpetuity, and soul-searching influence, has had no rival in the whole range of the History of men. The very Artisans who carried out in work the designs of these Kings of men, were engaged in a labor of Devotion, and builded better than they knew, and the mass of the people, submitting implicitly to be led, beheld in these products of the highest Art the very Gates of Heaven. Will we ever see the like on Earth again ? Netley Abbey was one of those Gateways, and presents in its Ruins, not only a “ Thing of Beauty,” but in many senses, a Historic Land- mark. SOUTHAMPTON. 517 It stands, like all such Ruins I have seen in England, surrounded by a charming Close, with rich garniture of grass and trees, indicat- ing how Nature and Art do ever dwell in unity and sweet harmony, when they grow old together. In further confirmation, there stand the stark walls of Church and Chapel and Refectory and Cloisters, covered thick with Ivy, trying how it can cover up man’s or Time’s spoil with ever living and loving Green. I would have liked to stay longer in the silence and sweetness of the spot ; for the only sounds heard there were the chirp and song of Birds that had their homes in the walls or vines, and that inarticulate melody which mingled its music with them from the Ages. A few persons were there, wandering like myself — maybe enjoying more than I the scene I had to leave, preferring much to stay. I have seen few Ruins that charmed me more. Then we drove back by a different route — inland and thi’ough fields and habitations, I wished more than ever you could have been with me. Our agree- ments in life have been many; and to-day your nerves and legs would not have been imposed upon ; and whilst we rolled quietly and peace- fully through the scenes, there would have been one more agreement added to our long list — that, surely, England, in her proper Season, is a lovely Land. The Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh were due to-day by appoint- ment to dedicate the new Seamen’s Missions. I came back in time to witness their arrival from Osborne, and their Reception by South- ampton’s Loyal People. I engaged the Landau again, that I might from its elevation in the crowd view the spectacle. The Pier is not far from the Hotel ; the throng upon it was very great, and extended on either side of the streets through which the Procession moved, and about all the doors and windows, and across the way from poles, hung festoons of variegated Banners and Bannerets and Streamers. When they came, the Artillery, planted on the Esplanade, sounded salvos of welcome, and the Bands made music of England’s National Air. The Procession was a long one : headed by the municipal authori- ties of the City in Carriages, in their robes of office, bearing the golden batons and maces of authority ; then came the Royal Equipage — the Duke and Duchess — Red Coats, local and national, bringing up the rear. They moved within a few feet of where my Carriage stood, and I saw them both. She is a Blonde, stout and better looking than her reputation for beauty justifies; he is an ordinary looking gentle- 518 LETTER NO. 20. man, well-dressed and well-behaved. He did not remove his hat, and I cannot tell what manner of face and head he has. There was no enthusiasm in the reception, and nothing to justify his uncovering. She bowed her head coldly and loftily in the de Vere style ; and why should she not? shall a Cub of the Russian Bear do otherwise to the subjects of the Lion’s Whelp ? The crowds of Beef-Eaters were well-dressed and orderly, and presented fairly the sport of the Boys and the Frogs — of which they were not the Frogs. There were in the Frogs the characteristics of two natures, which can speedily convert a “pleasaunce” into a trag- edy : — if to get a Tartar you scratch a Russian, equally true is it to scratch an Anglo-Saxon you get a Savage. Thus, too, with the Boys who behaved to Royalty so loyally to-day. They welcome now right heartily the sprigs of Royalty; to-morrow, in a frenzy, they may send its representatives outcasts over the World, or blow them up with Dynamite or Giant Powder. In the afternoon, I strolled through West Gate and along the Walls, grown hoary with years, out of whose faces the centuries have gnawed multitudinous morsels here and there — through the former of which, the painted placards hung up declare, the sturdy Britisher trod when, centuries ago, hasting to join the famous fights of Crecy and Agincourt across the Channel. Then I wandered hither and thither through the streets, nigh and far, stopping in the old and new Book- stores to look at the collections there, clean or musty, and into the shops, to eat a Cranberry Tart and drink a glass of fresh English Milk, than which nothing is more refreshing to me everywhere in my wanderings through the Bonny Island. On Steamee Werea, North German Lloyd Line, Sunday, August 3, 1890. I left the Hotel at eleven or twelve o’clock and walked to the Landing, a Porter wheeling my luggage. I, with it, went aboard a nice little Steamboat, the tender, so-called, of the Steamer. Here we remained till half-past two o’clock, waiting the arrival of the Train from London. Near by us was the Royal Steamer, sent from Cowes to take another sprig of Royalty — Prince Christian — to the Isle of Wight to join at Osborne the other members of the family and the STEAMSHIP WERBA— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 519 young Emperor of Germany, now on a visit there. They had ready for him a flight of steps covered with crimson cloth, and a gangway of the same adornment, to be used by his Royal Highness in passing from the Train to the Ship. The Sun was warm, and I did not go out to witness the arrival — indeed, very few were there. Her Majesty is now divided into so many, that I think the English People look upon the number as not by any means a luxury ; especially do they grumble about the impecunious German Princes tacked on almost yearly to their Budget, making it a very heavy load to carry. When the Train arrived, a good many came aboard, but not a large number for our big Steamship, and we steamed down Southampton Water to meet her. We sighted the fine Ship in the Spithead, and met her near the Fortress, where the Spithead and the Solent meet. The afternoon was beautiful, and the scene I have described on com- ing in, waved us farewell with an equally smiling face on going out. Soon the Werra was by our side, and we and our baggage were easily transferred in the quiet waters, and me and mine were lodged in my State-Room — a large and handsome apartment, all to myself, fore- casting a happy Voyage on this, the last long Link. I have travelled on this elegant Steamer before, and will, therefore, simply say, she is five thousand five hundred tons. I am happy to add, we are not crowded : plenty of room everywhere. I was on Deck till we passed the Needles, watching with my Glass both shores ; by which time the evening shades were falling, and then I went below, bidding Albion Good Bye ! once more. My Tablemate is a Mr. Lewis Roberts, from New York, with whom I dined and found agreeable. The Ocean is smooth as a table, and the Steamship, without a struggle or a ti’emor, ploughs her track onwax’d nobly. On Same Steamship, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, August 4, 5, and 6, 1890. These days have been vai’ied in weather, but bearing no incidents worth putting here. Our number of First Class passengers is small — only sixty — about one-fourth the comjilement of the Ship. Conse- quently, there is plenty of room everywhere. They are nearly all Germans : some fresh from Fatherland, with no knowledge of Eng- lish ; some residents and citizens of the United States, now homeward 520 LETTER NO. 20. bouud from .the Old Country. There are a few Americans ; but I have made no acquaintances except Mr. Roberts, my table chum,, whom I find intelligent and agreeable, and with whom I have much talk. He is a man of sixty-five or six, with much business experience. He says he was vigorous and active like myself until last Winter, when the Grippe struck him, from which he had several recoveries and relapses, and was finally left shattered and worn. He fears he will never regain his wonted health. That must have been a curious Epidemic, making its circuit of the World, and striking hither and thither, leaving its mark or memory Avherever it went. It was about me, and its victims wherever I moved, making the rounds and travel- ling rapidly ; but it passed me by. Mr. Roberts is a Republican : not a bitter one, though staunch, and we have many talks. Like most Northern People, he cannot take on or get up to the central question which lies at the bottom of our fortunes, and will one day demand an answer from those in power; too feeble I fear to give a solution. He sees much, by virtue of his extensive travels ; but has much to learn. Alas ! like his Country- men, much that he can or will never learn, till fiercer forces than arguments take the field. The older I grow, and the more I investi- gate, the more I am impressed with the utter inability of the great mass of men to grasp those issues which lie at the foundation of Human Life and forecast its future. “ My son,” said the wise and venerable Father, the first thing that will strike you on coming to the responsibilities of high Official place, is the little wisdom with which the World is governed.” Mr. Roberts has been to and through our Region. Before the War, he was a dealer in Wheat and Flour iu_ New York City, and knew our friends Welsh and Legg, and handled their Winchester Steam-Mill Flour, which stood at the head of the market. He said, one year of his dealings with them, he advised them to buy Wheat largely, feeling sure from the data he could gather, Wheat and Flour would go up to high rates. They took his advice, and that year he turned over to them of profits, sixty-five thousand dollars. I am penning these lines with difficulty, under both the pitching and rolling of the Ship. Almost everybody is hors du combat. I am writing in the Saloon, alone, save Mr. Roberts, who is lying down ; the other passengers are scattered, most of them to their beds. I have trouble in very slowly putting down these lines, and the waves are STEAMSHIP WEBBA— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 521 continually dashing themselves against the Ports with heavy thugs, through which I can see them chasing each other like coursers — the huge bulk of our Steamer forcing itself through, and dashing them in billows over its lofty Decks. Being quite comfortable, the scene is very grand. This condition of the elements has come gradually. At first the Sea was smooth as glass, and only capped with light flecks of white, and you could play marbles upon the Deck boards. By degrees, the winds and waves have risen, and in the contest, growing more angry every hour, they have brought themselves almost into the condition of a storm. I hope they will settle their quarrel before it reaches that. But they have already become so rude and disagreeable that I must stop. On Same Steamer, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, Aihgust 7, 8, and 9, 1890. The weather has continued unpleasant. The Sun has sulkily hid himself behind clouds, and the winds never vaulting into a storm, have yet stirred around lustily, rocking the Ship impolitely and warn- ing us to be careful of our steps and doings. On Friday, by way of variety, the rain came along and shed itself upon us — sometimes in sheets, sometimes in mist and fog, hiding the distant horizon. Few Ships, one or two of Sail, appeared, and you might have supposed you were voyaging over the Sahara of the Ocean, instead of the great- est water thoroughfare of the World. I amuse myself in reading, and talking to my Friend Mr. Roberts ; now and then picking up, without meaning it, new acquaintances. We have made various distances since we left Southampton — from three hundred and fifty-seven to three hundred and ninety-six miles daily, depending on the waves and weather ; the latter we made to- day — Saturday. Our direction from Southampton was at first rather Southwest; then due West yesterday, and to-day Southwest again, avoiding the Banks of New Foundland, and seeking New York, our destination, by an almost straight line. Our Captain’s name is Pohle, a German, florid and weather-beaten, who, I understand, speaks but little English, and whose companion- ship I, therefore, do not seek, rather avoid. He has in addition to his rubicund fagade a portly Bay-window, the frescoeing and building 522 LETTER NO. SO. of which must. have been a great expense and the labor of some years. They may both carry much merit, and I doubt not do ; I am perfectly willing to trust them. My Friend introduced me to Mrs. Bottsford and her young Daugh- ter, a girl of thirteen or fourteen, fi’om Chicago, who have been upon a short run to England. I had much pleasant talk with them about their trip, and about the pushing City where they live. They tell me the Census recently taken shows its size to be more than a million of people — the second City in the United States — and growing rapidly. Mr. Roberts says, that New York, with its outlying cities and towns, in effect its suburbs, in a few years will rival London in population, and claim like London to be a “Nation ” — with five millions of people. I have met with a Mr. Cole, from Brooklyn, returning from a foreign tour, in company with his wife and niece. He is a pleasant, intelligent man, and we have had much talk ; and last night. Dr. W. F. Grebe, a German, who practices Medicine in Richmond, Va., introduced himself to me. He has been to Heidelberg, his native place, and is now upon his return. He told me much about Rich- mond and its people and doings ; how it had and is improving. He did not know me personally in Richmond, but knew all about me and my Administration, and thought, in view of the progress of events and their present state, what a misfortune it was the Commonwealth had not followed my advice. With such a number of Germans aboard, we have plenty of Music. A Brass Band entertains us daily at Dinner, and in the Evening some one performs upon the Piano, while others sing ; helping, thus, to while the hours of those whom the Sea makes weary. But I have no complaints ; the days rapidly come and go, and 1 am satisfied. Whilst I write, promise of brighter skies prevail, and I hope it will grow, till our entrance into New York Harbor will be clear and clean. On Same Steamer, Sunday and Monday, August 10 and 11, 1890. The weather somewhat brightened on Sunday. Yet not enough to bring the sick ones bravely out. Our Voyage has been singular. We have had no storm ; but sufficient roughness has prevailed to keep many constantly on the sick list. Not more than half our number have any day appeared at their meals in the Saloon. Afraid to ven- STEAMSHIP WEBBA— ATLANTIC OCEAN. 523 ture, when able to leave their Rooms, they take their meals on Deck. The Sim has given us only glimpses of his countenance ; hid by mist and thin veils of clouds. My resolution to make no acquaintances has not been carried out. The great courtesy and kindness of the passengers have quite broken it down, and now I know them all, male and female. We meet and speak and talk, and they knowing who I am, soon make themselves known to me. Most of them are Germans or of German descent, and some English, living in the United States — in St. Louis, Chicago, Cincinnati, Utah, New York, Brooklyn, Boston, and other places. Two middle-aged Ladies are from Boston ; one of them a Doctor of Medicine. The latter and I have had a good deal of conversation. She is intelligent and well-informed and travelled, and withal not obtrusive, like strong-minded women ax'e wont to be. Her name is Dr. Morton. One young man from England, by the name of Smart, is on his way to Scranton to take charge of a Hotel. ■ He has been there before, and knows Judge Handley, who, he says, is a man of great wealth, and stands high among the people of that City, being liberal and public-spirited. But I will not take the time or bother you with the names of many others, whose talk would not interest you or justify me in the repeating. Approaching now the Continent, ships of Sail and Steam increase in number upon the bosom of the dreary Ocean — going out or gather- ing to their Haven. I sit on Deck and watch them, and send my thoughts beyond them homeward, faster far than they can speed. I have spent much time in reading ; among the Books, “ A Noble Life,” by Miss Mulock, author of “ John Halifax, Gentleman,” — I think she is now Mrs. Craik. It is an excellent story in its way, and in her way, full of pathetic touches, and at the same time sensible and often wise. I am glad to find that I can still read a Novel, and enjoy it. Whilst in that form, there is a pitiable waste of time and talent, or something worse ; there are, also, gathered some of the finest prod- ucts of Genius and Learning. I would not like to feel that I had become so old and staid, that I could never be touched again by Books which, in my younger days, charmed me like an inspiration. How is it with your venerable self? About dark on Sunday a Vessel came in sight before us and gave the Pilot’s signal. The Captain stopped our Steamer; awaiting the Pilot’s advent in a small row boat, he climbed aboard. We were 524 LETTER NO. SO. then four hundred miles from New York. I expressed surprise that he should come so far to meet the incoming Vessels ; but was told they came sometimes six or eight hundi'ed. The competition is great, and probably four or five more Pilots were on this Boat, which would continue out and thus dispose of themselves to the Steamers when they one after another hove in sight. This Pilot, like nearly all I have ever seen in every part of the World, is a bronzed, hale and hearty fellow, grown strong and healthy with the fresh salt water, and constant hardships of his life. Monday has been the finest day of our Voyage: the atmosphere, the Sky, the Sea were all bright and beautiful, and we speeded hope- fully landward. Before the night came, we had sighted the Eastern point of Long Island, and at considerable distance moved along the parallel of its shore, marked by Light Houses here and there. When the night had fully come, we saw the Lights of Long Beach, and then Rockaway ; and then Manhattan Beach and Brighton and Coney Island opened out upon the shore, with reaches of Electric Brilliancy. At ten o’clock or thereabouts we cast anchor some distance off Staten Island, to await the morning. The scene was wonderfully fine — the Lamps in and around the City gleaming like Stars ; the Station for Coney Island on our right, built for show, resembling a Pyramid of many-colored burners ; before us, on one side, the Statue of Liberty, with its flaming torch aloft; on the other, the magnificent Brooklyn Bridge, threaded with Electricity, spanning the River, an arch ablaze with light. Then I went to bed, to await the coming of the morning. On Same Steamer, and New York City, Astor House, Tuesday, August 12, 1890. We Breakfasted at six o’clock on the Steamer, and soon thereafter were under way : — the Health and Customs Officers having come aboard, the one to look after the hygiene of our bodies, the other the character and value of the property we wex’e about to take ashore. I was out by daylight to enjoy the scene, which I ever delight to do, when I leave or enter this splendid Harbor — I think, without a rival on the Earth, save that of Rio. And I was repaid for my early rising. I saw the Sun come forth royally from his bed of purple and STEAMSHIP WERRA—NEW YORK. 525 gold ; on every hand, on Sea and Land, abounded the evidences of the material forces and products of our Civilization; the Fortifica- tions and Gun Boats which guarded the entrance ; the Ships which linked its Commerce with the farthest corners of the World; the habitations on the shore, which spoke of untold wealth, in its multi- tudinous applications. Whilst moving in, I parted with my host of new-made friends — now soon to scatter, never to meet again. What numerous collections and dispersions I have had upon my travels ! My Friend, the Lady Doctor, and her companion — Dr. Ellen Morton, and Miss Elizabeth Howard Bartol — came to bid me Good Bye ! and give me their cards, and express the pleasure my company had afforded them, and invite me to their homes when I came to Boston. They have been spending a year in Paris — the former studying Medicine, the latter Art. Miss Bartol bears an ancient name — one of the F. F. B.’s ; her Father is a prominent Physician, and, she said, she knew he would take much pleasure in meeting and talking with me. Dr. Morton has a fine, good face, and intelligent, and has not those silly, philanthropic, fanatic views which make strong-minded women not pleasant to come in contact with. If she has them, she has the happy knack of keeping them out of view of one, who with them has no patience. And thus I parted, too, with Mr. Roberts and Mrs. Bottsford and my numerous other Friends. The Customs Officer took my Declaration, and put upon our Silver pieces the gentle tax of forty-five per cent. And then I went ashore, and the Officers upon the Wharf passed my baggage with the courtesy and politeness I have scarce ever failed to meet with. Ttiere is much complaint often of their rudeness. Is the treatment tendered me, owing to my own mild-mannered ways? We landed on the Hoboken side. I took a Carriage and, with my traps, crossed the River and drove to this old Hotel, my stopping place, you know, for many years. Coming in upon the Steamer, cool breezes met us from the Land, and I was happy to know, that the hot wave, which the Pilot told us when he came aboard prevailed last week, has gone. The weather now is cool and pleasant. When I had taken my Room, I telegraphed to Margaret and Tay- lor of my safe arrival, and told them I would be in Charlestown on Thursday Evening, and go on to Winchester on Friday; and, also, wrote them both to that effect. 526 LETTER NO. SO. In the afternoon I went to Liggitts’, my Book man, and spent several hours among his Books, and bought some to take home to put among those that have, lo ! these many years, been, like the Ven- erable Abbot’s portraits on the wall, my abiding, faithful friends, and have ever welcomed my coming with pei’ennially smiling faces. I thought of going to Coney Island in the Evening ; but, upon reflection, inasmuch as I have been there, I deemed it wiser and better to let its memories stand, and “ lay me down to sleep.” New York City, Astor House, Wednesday, Augihst 13, 1890. I busied myself this Morning in settling with my Bankers, Brown Brothers & Co., and thus closing up the last financial matters con- nected with my Tour. I found awaiting me thei'e a Letter from Taylor, telling me of the safe arrival of Letter No. 19, showing, I was happy to know, that all of this long Journey have to this safely come to hand, however many of yours to me have wandered — who knows whither? He was, doubtless, surprised to receive my Tele- gram yesterday ; thinking I was in the heart of Europe, looking at the Passion Play in Ober-Ammergau. When I had finished with my Bankers, I wandered through the off-streets, the day being pleasant, and along the water and among the Markets, and was surprised everywhere to see the growth of this fast- growing City. On every hand. Buildings of immense size and cost are going up, and the tide of Business is swelling more and more. Who can tell what New York will be in Fifty Years? Absorbing Brooklyn, Jersey City, and the outlying towns, it may justly claim London’s soubriquet of “ Nation.” It now, with these, I hear, would number three millions of inhabitants. I think when I passed through, at the beginning of this Tour, I wrote you how it was increasing in the number and proportions and elegance of the Hotels at the upper end ; and still they cry for more — the volume of travel grows with the Hotel enlargement. This, though too low down for the taste of the average tourist and traveller, is, I am informed, always full. Certainly it is so now. If there had been an Actor of note in town, I would have gone to hear him. But the Boards are empty, and the Theatres are closed, or simply surviving with the lightest, frothiest kind of doings. I NEW TORE CITY. 527 have, therefore, nothing, as usual on my visits here, of the Dramatic to talk to you about, nor, indeed, of anything in Gotham worth your hearing, I, therefore, bring this, the last Letter of the series, to an end — in the place where it began. I trust they have been as interesting and entertaining to you all as the facts and the experiences they recite have been to me. When you have read, be kind enough to forward it to Margaret or Taylor ; or what is better far, bring with it your own good self. Then we will talk in the Old Home about the things I have seen and done; or we will go out to the Farm, and from its Hills will over- look a Country, than which my travels have shown me none richer or more beautiful — bounded by Mountains under whose shadows you breathed your natal air, and which we both have known and loved for well-nigh the length of man’s allotted span. Come, then, — right away ! Taylor in his Letter tells me Cousin Mary has ceased her troubles, and is at rest. She died a few days ago. How greatly I shall miss my visits to her, and our pleasant talks ! She was always bright, and the fate that she knew was slowly creeping on her, never seemed to terrify; an example to us all of quiet, patient suffering and hope. One by one our oldest friends are passing, and the trees around us are growing very thin. She read the Stories of my Travels with great delight, and ever found in them something to lighten the pain and sorrow she was decreed to bear. I will write to Sue before I leave the City, that it may hurry to her in advance of my own arrival. And now I will stop, welding this, the last Link, into the Chain, with which, God lifting up the Light of His Countenance upon me, I have been enabled, a second time, to girdle the Earth. With tenderest love for all, F. ITINERARY. 1889. November 28. December 2-10. “ 10 . “ 11-31. 1890. Miles. Winchester to New York 300 New York to Aspinwall 1970 Aspinwall to Panama (Kail) 48 Panama to San Francisco, viz. : Panama to La Libertad, 788; La Libertad to San Jos4, 93; San Jos4 to Champerico, 76 ; Champerico to Acapulco, 485; Acapulco to Mansanillo, 297 ; Mansanillo to San Bias, 197 ; San Bias to Mazatlan, 121 ; Mazatlan to San Francisco, 1347 miles. Total from Panama to San Francisco 3404 January 15 to Feb. 5. San Francisco to Auckland, viz. : January 15-22, to Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, 2100 ; Do. 23-29, Honolulu to Tutuila, Samoan Islands, 2100 ; Do. 29 to Feb. 5, Tutuila to Auckland, 1850 miles. Total from San Francisco to Auckland 6050 February 7-15. Auckland, New Zealand, to Napier, viz. : Auckland to O.vford, by Kail, 134 ; Feb. 8, Oxford to Ohine- mutu, 32 miles, by Stage ; Ohinemutu to Whakare- warewa and back, 5; Feb. 9, Ohinemutu to Ti'ke- teri and return, by Boat and Stage, 22; Feb. 10, Ohinemutu to Waiotapu Valley and back, by Stage and walk, 45 miles ; Feb. 11, Ohinemutu to Waira- kei by Stage, 52 miles; Feb. 12, Wairakei to Tausso by Do., 6 miles ; Feb. 14, Tausso to Tara- wera, 50 miles; Feb. 15, Tarawera to Napier, 32. Total from Auckland to Napier 398 17. Napier to Wellington, viz. : Napier to Woodville, by Rail, 96 ; Woodville to Palmerston, by Stage, 17 ; Palmerston to Wellington, by Rail, 87 miles. Total from Napier to Wellington 200 18-19. Wellington to Littleton, by Steamer 175 19. Littleton to Christchurch, by Rail 8 24-26. Christchurch to Mount Cook, viz. ; Feb. 24, Christ- church to Timaru, 100 miles, by Rail ; Timaru to Fairlie, 39 miles, by Rail ; Feb. 25, Fairlie to Pukaki, 56 miles, by Stage ; Feb. 26, Pukaki to Mount Cook, 40 miles. Total from Christchurch to Mount Cook 34 529 235 530 1890. ITINERARY. Miles. March April " 3-8. Mount Cook to Queenstown, viz. : March 3, Mount Cook to Pukaki, 40 miles, by Stage; March 4, Pukaki to Lindis Hotel, via Omarama, by Special Buggy, 60 miles ; March 5, Lindis Hotel to Pem- broke, Lake Wanaka, by Do., 30 miles; March 6, up Lake Wanaka and back, by Steamboat, 30 miles; March 7, to Lake Hawea and back, in Buggy, 20 miles ; March 8, Pembroke, Lake Wanaka, via Cardrona and Arrowtown, to Queens- town, by Coach, 47 miles. Total from Mount Cook to Queenstown 227 10-12. Queenstown to Dunedin, viz. : March 10, Queenstown to Glenorchy, at head of Lake Wakatipu, and back to Queenstown, by Steamer (35 -(-35), 70 miles; same day, Queenstown to Kingston, on same Lake, by same Steamer, 25 miles ; March 11, Kingston to Dunedin, by Kail, 170 miles. Total, Queenstown to Dunedin 230 20-24. Dunedin to Hobart, Tasmania, viz.: March 20-21, Dunedin to Bluff, by S. S. Mararoa, 130 miles; March 21, Bluff to Invercargill and return, by Kail (17 -)- 17), 34 miles; March 21-24, Bluff to Hobart, by same Steamer, 920 miles. Total, Dune- din to Hobart 1084 24-25. In Hobart, viz.: Ride by Carriage to head of Water Supply and return (5-|-5), 10 miles; March 25, to Kew Norfolk, by Steamer up the Derwent River, 25 miles, and back by Rail, 25 miles (25-(- 25), 50 miles; same day, in afternoon, ride by Carriage about Hobart, 6 miles. Total, in and about Hobart 66 26. Hobart to Launceston, Tasmania, by Rail 133 27-28. Launceston to Melbourne, Australia, by Steamer 277 3-7. Melbourne to Gippsland Lakes and back, viz.: April 3, Melbourne to Sale, by Rail, 127 miles; Sale, down Latrobe River, Steamer, 11 miles ; Lake Wellington, 11 miles; McClennan River, 10 miles; Lake Victoria, 19 miles; Black Lake, 8 miles; to Lakes’ Entrance, 11 miles — total from Sale, 70 miles; April 5, trip from Merrangbaur Hotel to Nowa Nowa Missionary Station, on Lake Tyers, by Coach and Boat, and return, about 16 miles ; April 6, Lakes’ Entrance to Lake King, 8 miles ; across Lake King to mouth of Mitchell River, 10 miles ; up Mitchell River to Bairnsdale, 10 miles, all by Steamer — total from Lakes’ Entrance, 28 miles; April 7, Bairnsdale to Melbourne, 171 miles, by Rail. Total from Melbourne to Gippsland Lakes and back 412 ITINERARY. 1890. April 8 . 9-10. 13. 16-17. 19 . •20-24. April 27 to May 19. May -20-24. “ 24-28. May 29 to June 7. 531 Miles. Melbourne to Ballarat, direct, 74 miles by Bail ; return via Geelong, 100 miles, by Do. Total 174 Melbourne to Sydney, by Bail, viz. : Melbourne to Albury, 190 miles ; Albury to Sydney, 386 miles. Total, Melbourne to Sydney 576 Out of Sydney, viz. : Sydney to Parramatta Landing, by Steamer, 15 miles ; from Do. to Parramatta City, by Steam Tram, 3 miles ; from Do. to Syd- ney, by Bail, 14 miles ; from Do. to Botany Bay, by Bail, 6 miles and back, 12. Total for day 44 Sydney to Bathurst and back (145-}- 145). 290 Sydney, up the Ilawkesbury Biver, viz. : to Brooklyn, Hawkesbury or Peale’s Ferry, by Bail, 36 miles; up Biver to Sackville Beach, 52 miles ; SackviUe Beach to Windsor, by Coach, 10 miles; Windsor to Sydney, by Bail, 36 miles. Total 134 Sydney to Brisbane, by Bail, and back, viz. ; Sydney to Wallangarra, on border of New South Wales, and Queensland, 490 miles ; Wallangarra to Bris- bane, 232 miles, and return via both 1444 Sydney to Mahe, one of the Seychelles, on board S. S. Australien, French Line, viz. : April 27-28, Syd- ney to Melbourne, 576 miles; April 30-May 1, Melbourne to Adelaide, 480 miles ; May 2-5, Ade- laide to Albany, King George Sound, 1025 miles; May 6-19, Albany to Mah4, 3922 miles. Total, Sydney to Mah4 6003 Extra distances travelled from Sydney to Mah4, to avoid currents of wind and waves in Indian Ocean. 148 Mahe to Mauritius, viz.: May 20-23, Mahe to Isle Be- union or Bourbon, 985 miles ; May 23-24, Bourbon to Mauritius 135. Total, Mahe to Mauritius 1120 Tours in Mauritius, viz. : Port Louis to Curepipe, by Bail, 16 miles; May 25, by Carriage from Port Louis to Pamplemouses Gardens and return (7-f-7 ), 14 miles; May 26, to Maheburg and Souil- lac, and return to Curepipe — viz. : to Maheburgh, by Bail, 20 miles, and thence back to Eosebelle Junction, 11 miles; thence to Souillac, 11 miles; thence back to Curepipe, 20 miles, total, 62 miles; May 27, Curepipe to Port Louis, by Bail, 16 miles; May 28, Port Louis to Flacq, by Bail, and return (22 -(- 22), 44 miles. Total, tours in Island 122 Port Louis to D’ Urban, Natal, by Steamer, viz.: May 29-31, Port Louis to Tamatave, Madagascar, 475 miles ; June 2, Tamatave to Mananjara, Mada- gascar, 203 miles ; June 2 to June 4, Mananjara to Cape St. Mary, Madagascar, 369 miles; June 532 1890. ITINERARY. Miles. 4 to June 7, Cape St. Mary to Natal (D’Urban), 788 miles. Total, from Port Louis, Mauritius, to D’Urban, Natal 1835 June 10-16. Tours in Natal, viz.: D’Urban to Pietermaritzburg, by Rail, 70J miles; June 11, Pietermaritzburg to visit a Kraal, by Carriage, and return (6 -f- 6), 12 miles ; June 12, Pietermaritzburg to Ladysmith, by Rail, 119 miles; June 13, Ladysmith to D’Urban, by Rail, 189J miles; June 14, D’Urban to Verulam, by Rail, and return (20 + 20), 40 miles; D’Urban, ride into the Country by Carriage, about 8 miles. Total of tours in Natal 4302 “ 16-17. D’Urban to Port Elizabeth, Cape Colony, viz.: D’Ur- ban to East London, by Steamer, 260 miles; June 17, East London to Port Elizabeth, by Do., 135 miles. Total, D’Urban to Port Elizabeth 395 “ 19. Port Elizabeth to Uitenhage and return (20 + 20), by Rail 40 “ 20-21. Port Elizabeth to Grahamstown and return (106 + 106), by Rail 212 “ 23-24. Port Elizabeth to Kimberley, by Rail 485 “ 30. Kimberley to Fourteen Streams and back (47^ +47^), by Rail 95 July 1-2. Kimberly to Cape Town, by Rail 647 “ 6. Cape Town, round through the Kloof, and along Sea Point, by Carriage 10 “ 7. Cape Town to False Bay and return (17 + 17), by Rail. 34 9-28. Cape Town to Southampton, viz.: Cape Town to Cape Verde, 3601 miles; Cape Verde to Teneriffe, 819 mites ; Teneriffe to Madeira, 255 miles ; Madeira to Southampton, 1332 miles. Total, Cape Town to Southampton 6007 28. Southampton to London, by Rail 79 31. London to Southampton, by Rail 79 August 1. Trip from Southampton to New Forest and Bourne- mouth, viz.: Southampton to Lyndhurst Road Station, by Rail, 11 miles ; same Station, through North portion of the Forest, by Carriage, 20 miles ; same Station to Beaulieu Abbey, 9 miles, by Car- riage ; Beaulieu Abbey to Brockenhurst, by Car- riage, 6 mites; Brockenhurst to Bournemouth, by Rail, 15 miles ; Bournemouth to Southampton, by Rail, 30 miles. Total of round 91 2. Southampton to Netley Abbey and back (3 + 3) 6 3-12. Southampton to New York City 3100 13. New York City to Winchester, stopping over in Charlestown 300 Total number of miles of Tour 39,1 17J INDEX A. Angelas, the, of Millet, 6, 8. Aloe, 13. Antilles, the, 14, 25. Aspinwall, 15, 16. Anglo-Saxons, 21, 28, 372, 406, 518. Acajutla, 27. Agua, Mount, 27. Acatenango, Mount, 27. Acapulco, 30 et seg., 32, 33, 34. Andrews, Colonel, 54. Auckland, 55, 63, 68, 87, 92, 116, 120, 126 et seg., 160, 211. Alameda, S. S., 84 et seg., 1 54, 297. Australia, 87, 120, 182, 187, 192, 204, 206, 215, 233 et seg., 251, 254, 258, 267, 295, 305, 319 et seg., 452. Allandt, Mr., 104. Antipodes, the, 118. Araby the Blest, 120. Apia, 122, 123. Ateamuri, 146. Auerbach’s Kellar, 149. Alleghany Mountains, 152, 284. Avon Kiver, 164. Andes, the, 167. Alps, Southern, 168, 190. Ashburton, the River, 171. Alps, the, 173, 180. Avalanch, the, 176. Aretes, 181. Albert Town, 190, 193. Arrow Town, 190, 193, 196. Arrow River, 196. Albatross, 223, 224, 313, 316, 328, 330, 332, 379. Ancient Mariner, 224, 328. Astoria, 233. Ashburner, Mr. and Mrs., 252, 253, 257. Adelaide, 126, 259, 296, 313, 314, 315, 320. Albury, 271, 272. Australien, S. Ship, 273, 281, 296, 305 et seg., 311, 326 et seg., 347, 480. Adder, the, 275. Athens, 279. Appalachian Mountains, 284. Agricultural Fair, 285. Artesian Wells, 200, 324. Australian Bight, 316. Albany, 318. Australasia, 321. Atherstone, Dr., 329. Amirante Islands, 347, 348, 350. Abbott, Dr., 347, 349, 350, 351. Africa, 348, 349, 350, 351, 375, 384, 385, 406. Anjnan Island, 348. Aldebra Island, 350, 356. Abelard and Heloise, 356. Achilles’ Shield, 365. Aleutian Isles, 373. Atoll, 374. Antannanarivo, 374 et seg. Atlantis, 375. Alsace, 380. America, South, 385. Adder, Puff, 386. Assegai, 386, 400. Algoa Bay, 389, 408, 412, 417. Arkansas Major, 389. Aberdeen, 394. Ants, 399, 415, 421. 533 534 INDEX. Aryan, 401. Angora Goats, 413. Atherstone, Dr., 416, 463. Archimedes’ Lever, 420. Albemarle County, 422. jEneas, 436. Athenian, S. Ship, 478 et seq. Albinos, 483. African Bight, 487. Amazon River, 489. Azores, the Islands, 495. Atlantis, 495. Aldershot, 501. Aquarium, the, London, 508. Anton or Test River, 516. B. Baltimore, 2. Brown Brotliers & Co., 2, 450, 499, 507, 526. Bullay, Mr., Agent P. M. S. S. Co., 3, 7. Booth, Mr. Edwin, 3, 4. Barye, Artist, 8. Backus, Mr., 10, 18. Bahamas, 11, 13. Buffalo Bill, 18. Barbadoes, 25. Balsam Coast, 26. Beaver, Governor, 30. Benjamin, Captain, 33, 46. Blackburn, Mrs., 48, 236. Brown, B. F., 50, 68. Beatty, Judge, 67. Baldwin, Stuart, 70, 71. Baldwin, Joe, 86. Brown, Hon. Godfrey, 88. Boobies, 93, 125. Bell, John N., 93, 235. Bishop, Mr., 95 et seq. Bishop, Mrs., Funeral of, 97 et seq., 115. Barker, Miss, 116. Birds, 93, 118, 119, 125, 256, 326, 330, 349, 379, 390, 400, 411, 455, 489, 497. Bowson Birds, 118. Black, William, the Novelist, 124. Bungalow, 143. Bainbridge, 145. Bush, 152, 153, 218, 250, 251, 283, 288, 291. Bounetts, Mr., 150 et seq., 154, 156, 158, 159, 160 et seq., 168, 170. Belfast, 165. Birthday, my, 169. Balaklava, 175. Ball, Mount, 175. Borland, Mr., 176, 184. Bell-Bird, the, 177, 179, 192, 256. Blue Bottle Fly, 177. Bird Charmer, 179. Boss, Mr., 180. Billy, a, 183. Barry, Driver, 185, 186, 188, 190, 191, 195, 199. Bunch Grass, 185. Bridge, Chain or Basket, 186. Ben Lomond, New Zealand, 198. Brisbane, 199, 202, 289, 291, 292. Blake, Mr., R. R. Agent, 199. Bethune, Mr., 217. Bluff, 218 et seq., 281. Banks, the, 219, 289, 323. Bridgewater, 225, 228. Botany Bay, 231, 319. Bass Strait, 232. Baker, Camillus, 235. Boomerang, 245, 255, 257, 258, 400. Bulmer, Mr., Missionary, 252, 254, 256. Bandicoot, 256. Bairnsdale, 257, 258, 259. Ballarat, 259, 260, 263, 264. Bacchus’ Marsh, 260. Bungaru, 260. Burns, Robert, 264. Black Snake, 275. Boat Racing,' 277. Botany Bay, 278, 310. Bathurst, 285 et seq. Blue Mountains, 283, 284, 287, 291, 312. Bourke, 284. Broken Bay, 288, 304. Ben Lomond, Australia, 291. Booms, 249, 265, 295, 322, 385, 431, 482, 506. Booth, Mr. and Wife, 297, 306. Beauregard, General, 3.34. INDEX. 535 Bourbon Island, 347, 350 et seq. Bicycle, 349. Boone, Daniel, 350. Bahna, 304. Bernardine de St. Pierre, 356. Buitenzorg, 358. Bamboo Mountains, 359. Bullock, Indian, 361, 389, 397. Boston, 376. Betsimasavakas, 377. Boulanger, 380. Boreas, 382. Banana, 392. Buffalo Grass, 398. Buzzards, 400. Boers, the, 404, 405, 406, 415, 435, 481. Betz, Mr. and Mrs., 407, 409, 411, 414, 424, 461, 479. Basuto Land, 415. Bucks or Boks, various species, 419, 455. Bush Bok, 419, 435. Blaaw or Blue Bok, 419. Buster, James, 420. Bushmen, 420, 423, 482, 483, 484. Bultfontein Mine, 427, 430. Beaconsfield (Town), 430, 431. Beaufort, West, 448. Brown, Shipley & Co., 298, 312, 450, 456, 464, 498, 499, 504. Blair School Bill, 457, 488. Baker, Mrs. William B., 464. Bainbridge, Captain, 479 et seq., 480, 502. Bartholomew Diaz, 481. Barberton, 482. Bantus, the, 483. Brazil, 493. Bliimlein, Mr., 496. Blanco, Cape, 497. Bouverie, Mr. E. P., 498, 505. Bewley or Beaulieu Abbey, 500, 514. Bennock, Mr. Francis, 505. Buckingham Palace, 509. Bournemouth, 511, 514, 515. Boldrewood, 513. Buccleugh, Duke of, 514. Brockenhurst, 514. Brighton, 514. Bottsford, Mrs., 522, 525. Brighton Beach, 524. Brooklyn Bridge, 524. Bartol, Miss Elizabeth Howard, 523, 525. c. City of Para, Steamer, 3, 7 et seq., 18. Central Park, H. Y., 4. Crebs, Hummer, 6. Crebs, Gaunt, 6. Colon, 11 et seq., 17. Castle Island, 13. Cuba, 14, 349, 352. Catholic Priests, 14 et seq., 26, 27. Columbus, 17, 23. Costa Eica, 21, 23. Central America, 22 et seq. Corinto, 24. Champerico, 29. Colima, 35. Christmas Day, 39 et seq. California, Gulf of, 39, 260, 321. California, Lower, 42. Colnett, Cape, 42. California, 43 et seq., 196, 428, 449, 468 et seq., 483. Crittenden, John J., 55. Coleman, Colonel and Mrs., 57, 59, 67. Coit, Mrs., 57. Crocker, Mr., 59. Colton, Mr., 59. Cliff House, 63, 64. Chinese, 85, 163, 190, 197, 211, 229, 304, 351, 355, 358, 360, 365, 373. Cornwall, Mr. and Mrs., 114. Circus Company, 117 et seq., 125. Cyclone in Samoan Islands, 122. Cook, Samuel, 125. Corcoran Gallery, 128. Cape Town, 154, 216, 223, 235, 279, 298, 313, 329, 336, 383, 387, 405, 449, 450 et seq., 479. Cliff Builders, 156. Cook, Captain, 159, 177, 319, 274, 278. Christchurch, 161 et seq. Canterbury, 162 etseq., 168, 171, 299, 300. Connolly, Mr., Consul, 164. Cokey, Mr., 164. 536 INDEX. Campbell, Mr., I65, 218, 240, 242, 243, 245, 249. Cook, Mount, 170 et seq., 172, 173, 180, 185, 190, 203, 256. Chamois, 176. Couloirs, 181. Crampton, Benny, 185. Clutha Kiver, 186, 190, 193, 195, 203. Caxton, Pisistratus, 193. Cromwell, 195. Cardrona River, 195. Cardrona Town, 196. Colorado, 196. Coal, 197, 483. Chicago, 205. Cape Colonies, 215, 337, 339, 385, 405. Christopher North, 217. Cape Pigeon, 223. Crawford, Mr., 224. Cauthorn, Mr., 228. Columbia River, 233. Carter, My Horse, 235. Cleveland, President, 240. Cherry Tree, 252. Cedar, 253. Chicago, 259. Checks for Baggage, 271. Cablegram to Taylor, 280. Carson, Lake, 284. Ceylon, 290, 357. Carrington, Lord, 305, 307. Caledonia, New, 306. Cannibals, 317, 335. Cape York, 31 9. Cocoanut Trees, 338, 346, 350, 374. Curieuse Island, 346. Coco-de-Mer, 346, 355. Cocoanut, Double, the, 346, 355. Coral Islands, 346, 350, 360, 361, 364, 374. Creoles, 347, 355. Comoro Islands, 348, 349, 350, 378. Cosmo Ledo Island, 350. Chagos Archipelago, 350. Cooleys, 351, 353, 358, 360, 386, 392, 401, 484. Castle Line S. S., 354. Curepipe, 354, 357, 358, 359, 362. Caspian Sea, 355. Corps du Garde, 357. Calcutta, 358. Cork, 373. Campbell, Mr., Consul, 376. Cyclones, 383. Cobra Snake, 386. Crane, Golden-Crested, 390. Club, Mahori, 400. Cactus, the Tree; 401, 416. Currency of the Cape Colonies, 403. Chaka, 405, 406, 484. Constantia Wine, 419, 461. Chartreuse, 419. Clip Springer Bok, 419. Cradock, 420. Columbia, the River, 435. Camp’s Bay Hotel, 460. Cape of Good Hope, 461. Carter, Mrs., 463. Capricorn, 486. Chameleon, 487. Congo River, 488, 489. Clay, Henry, 491. Cape de Verde, 492, 493. Cape Verde Islands, 493. Canaries (Islands), 494, 495. Cancer, Tropic Line, 494. Cowes, 500, 518. Charing Cross Hotel, 501. Cook, Thomas & Sons, 504. Covent Garden, 508. Christchurch Hospital, 508. Canute, the Dane, 510. Charles 1, 511. Copley, 513. Chamberlain, Mr., 516. Cistercian Order, 516. Christian, Prince, 518. Craik, Mrs. (Miss Mulock), 523. Coney Island, 524, 526. D. Delaney, Hal., 11. Dow, Captain John, 16. De Lesseps, 17. Davis, Jefferson, 47. INDEX. 537 Dandridge, Phil., 66. Deady, Judge, 77 et seq., 88, 89, 91, 92, 94, 104, 107 et seq. Damien, Father, 94. Dillingham, Mr. B. F., 95. Dogs, 167. Dunedin, 172, 184, 200, 201 et seq., to 216, 261. Ducks, Paradise, 187. De Quincey, 217. Derwent Kiver, 227. Diffenderfer, John and Kim, 270. Darling River, 284. Darling Downs, 291. Didier, Captain, 334. “ Dixie,” 334. Davis, Napoleon, 349. Detached Islands, 350. Denis, St., 351. Donald Currie S. S. Line, 354. Dunrobin Castle S. S., 354, 362, 266, 373, 384, 385, 387, 456. D’Urban, 354, 383, 384, 391, 399, 400, 402, 409, 457. Dauphin, Fort, 379. Dark Continent, 384. Dervish, 396. Drakenberg Mts., 398, 400. Delagoa Bay, 406, 432. Dingaan, 406. Diamonds, 409, 422, 425, 426, 427, 429, 432, 436 et seq., 464 el seq. Doncan, Lady, 411. Duiker Bok, 419. De Aar, 422. Dudley, Countess of, 423. De Beers Diamond Mine, 424, 425, 427, 432. Du Toitspan Mine, 427, 430. Dalton, Mr., 429, 434. Dalles, the, 435. Dido, 436. Devil’s Peak, 455, 461, 479. Deer, 419, 455. Damara Land, 484. Dolphins, 493. Dodge, Mittie and Anson, 507. Drury Lane, 508. E. English, the, 21, 482, 483, 484, 512. Equatorial, the. Line, 118, 347, 348, 382, 494. Eden, Mount, 130, 136. English Sparrow, 152. English A’oung Men, 150 et seq. Esk River, 153, 154. Eucalyptus, 171, 194, 226, 249, 252, 272, 283, 291, 296, 361, 415. Edelweiss, the, 180. Earnslaw, Mount, 200. England, 202, 209, 378, 493, 499 et seq. Exposition (Dunedin), 204. Elephant, 241, 435. Emu Plains, 283, 287. Elia, Gentle, 294. Edinburgh, Duke of, 304. Easter Island, 321. Engages, 349. Elsinore, 356. • Elizabeth, 383, 401, 406, 412. East London, 406. Eugenie, Empress, 418. Eland, 419. Electric Lights, 435. Eve, Mother, 436. Egyptians, 436. Eagle’s Nest, 500, 514. Edward III., 510. Exe River, 514. Edinburgh, Duke and Dutchess, 516 et seq. F. Federal Patronage, 2. Fortune Island, 12, 13. Fonseca, Gulf, 25. Fuego, Mount, 27. Farrallone Islands, 45, 64. Font, Rev. Mr., 57, 61. Flood, Mrs. and Miss, 58, 59. Field, Judge, 66. Fair, Ex-Senator, 67. Friedlander, Mrs., 75. Felton, Judge, 87. Plying Fish, 118, 119, 332, 333, 489. 538 INDEX. Farquhar, Captain, 123. Fern, the New Zealand, 138, 143, 158. Freeman, Mr. and Mrs., 139 et seq., 143 et seq., 146, 149. Fijian Islands, 141. Feather Mantle, 151, 152. Freezing Establishment, 165 et seq. Furze, 171. Fail-lie, 173, 184. Folgefond Glacier, 175. Freeman, young Mr., 199, 202, 208, 214. Foveaux Straits, 21 9. Frigate Bird, 224. Franklin, Sir John, 228. Farming, 234. Fuller, Dr., 235. Fox, Flying, 256. Fitzroy, Sir John and Lady, 278. Florida, 288. Firth, Miss, 297. Fletcher, Mr., 312, 314, 509. Fiji, 317, 321. Fairbridge, Mr., 329. Farquhar Island, 350. Fray.ser, Mr., .354, 355. Forest Side, 357. Flacq, 361, 363. French, 372, 380. Filanjanas, 375. Fat Boy in Pickwick, 395. Feather Market, 410. Fourteen Streams, 435. Fuziyama, Mount, 454. Fourth of July, 458, 479. False Bay, 461, 462. ■> Fisher, Mr., 486. Fortunate Islands, 495. Funchal, 495, 496, 497. Five Dials, 508. Fountains Abbey, 516. G. Gillen, Mr., 2. Griffith, Mr., 10. German People, 21, 28, 29. Guatamala, 25, 27, 28. Gerick4, Mr., 35, 46, 56, 63. Guano Rocks, 37. Grizzly Peak Mountain, 43. Gleasius, Mount, 43. Green, Judge Claiborne, 46. Gwin, Senator, 57. Golden Gate Park, 64, 66. Gray, Sir George, 66, 127 et seq., 455, 458, 462. Garfield, President, 66. Grippe, the, 71, 74, 87, 92 116. Golden Gate, 87, 119. Geysers, the, of New Zealand, 139 et seq., 143. Graham, Mrs., 147. Guyaquil, 159. Gorse, 171. Glaciers, 175, 176, 181, 191. Green, Rev. Mr., 180. Gibb, John (Landscape Artist), 185. Gold Digging, 189, 190, 192, 196, 197, 198, 260, 261, 263, 321, 385, 409, 429, 436 et seq., 468 et seq. Gulls, 190. Gledden, Dr.Waitland, 191, 195, 199, 200. Gladstone, 195. Greymouth, 197. Glenorchy, 200. Gore, 203. George, Henry, 214, 236 et seq. Gibson, Mr., 217, 224, 433. Georgetown, 232. Gordon, General, 239. Gippsland, 248 et seq., 259, 292, 319. Gulf Stream, 257. Geelong, 259, 264. Glaize, John Will, 259. Geography, 272. Griffin, Mr. Gilderoy W., Consul, 273, 279, 280, 289, 297, 306, 307. Gettysburg, Battle of, 282. Glasson, Mr., 285. Grose River, 287. Griffin, Virgiline, 307. Glenelg, 313. Grahamstown, 329, 412 et seq., 435. Grand Port, 360. Goulden, Mr., 376, 385. George, Mr., 417. INDEX. 539 Gry Bok, 419. Gun Bok, 419. Griqua Land, 423, 435, 482. Gray, Bishop Eobert, 459. Good Hope, Cape of, 461. Garnets, 464 et seq. Gladstone, 482. Great Fish Eiver, 484. Gulf of Guinea, 489. Gambia Eiver, 493. Goree Eiver, 493. Gordon, General, 494, 501. Gibraltar, 497. Guinness, Colonel, 505. Grebe, Dr. W. F., 522. H. Hotel, New, in Winchester, 2. Hamlet, 3. Hall, Dr. John, 4. Home Missions, 5. Hayti, 14. Honduras, 25. Huntingdon, C. P., 28. Helmics, Captain and Mrs., 33, 35, 46. Howard, W. C., 52. Hunter, Eobert W., 54. Hopkins, Mrs., 59. Halleck, General, 66. Haymond, young, 68, 71, 73, 74. Hawaiian Islands, 87, 88, 89, 94, 104 et seq., 112, 151, 215, 352, 357, 377, 393, 406. Hoodlums, 90. Honolulu, 93 et seq., 114, 115, 117, 119, 120, 213, 273. Heleakela, Mount, 114. Hauraki Gulf, 127, 130. Hinemoa, 141. Hero and Leander, 141. Huka Falls, 148. Horace, 156. Henry, Thomas, 172, 176, 183. Hochstetter, Mount, 173, 175. Hooker, Mount, 175, 180. Hermitage, the (Mount Cook), 175, et seq., 183. Huddleston, Mr. (Mount Cook), 176, 177, 178, 183. Honey Bee, the, 177. House Fly, the, 177. Hooker Glacier, 175, 180. Hobart, 184, 203, 219, 225, 281, 320. Hawks, 187. Howard, Mrs., 188, 189. Hawea Lake, 190, 193, 194. Hedditch, Captain, 191, 192. Hampton, Eev. Mr. and Wife, 191, 192, 195. Hayes, Lake, 196. Hauthorn, Hedges, 197, 249. Hector Mountains, 201. Hyams, Mr., 205. Halliday, Mr., 211 et seq., 214, 215, 217, 225, 226, 227, 228, 240, 241. Harding, Mi\, 218, 281. Hammerfest, 218. Horsfall, Mr., 228, 229, 232, 233. Hubbell, Mr., 265. Humboldt, Lake, 284. Hawkesbury Eiver, 287, 304, 310. High Fields, 291. Harrison, President, 311. Hobson’s Bay, 311. Heloise and Abelard, 356. Hamlet and Ophelia, 356. Hamilton, 366, 372. Hurricanes, 367. Hovas, the, 377. Hottentots, the, 411, 414, 415, 416, 420, 422, 423, 481, 483, 484. Heinecke, Mr., 417. Hartbeeste Bok, 419. Hex Eiver, 449. Hollis, George F., Consul, 457, 458, 479. Hausa Hotel, 461. Helena, St., Island, 488. Hurst’s Castle, 500. Handley, Judge, 506, 522. Hooe, John, 507. Hogarth, 508. Henry V., 510. Hastings, 514. Hoboken, 525. 540 INDEX. • I. Izalko, Mount, 27. Interviewers, 50. Iowa, 117. Invercargill, 218. Ingalls, Senator, 248. Iron Bark, 252. India, 290, 304, 353, 355, 358, 360, 372, 386, 401. Investigator Strait, 316. Indian Ocean, 350, 382. Itchen Eiver, 516. J. Jamaica, 11. ■Jolmson, Captain, 16 e< seq., 20, 30, 34, 51, 66, 70, 73. Java, 26, 256, 355, 357. Jones, Winfield S., 54 et seq., 57, 59, 61, 62, 68, 75, 76, 84. Jones, W. Brooks, 54, 67. Jilson, Mrs., 117 et seq., 128, 130, 133. Joshua’s, 130. Jardine, Mr., 156, 165. Jarvis, Governor and Mrs., 158. Jeffrey, 217. Jackass Bird, 256, 315. Jesuit, Father Moore, 276. Jenolan Caves, 284. Jersey, Lord, 307. Johnston, General, 334. Johanna Island, 348. Jenkins, Mr., 417. Jerusalem, 438. Jubilee Singers, 463. Joubert, General, 479. Joliannesburg, 482. Jack the Kipper, 508. K. King’s Daughters, 1. Key, Francis S., 66. Kalakaua, King, Hawaiian Islands, 112, 113. Kansas, 116, 117. Kawau Island, 127. Kauri Gum, 127 et seq. Kiwi Bird, 151. Korimako, the, 177. Kea, the, 178, 179. Kaka, the 179. Kauffman, Mr., 180. Kingston, 200, 201, 202, 203. Kinloch, 200. Kanaka, 215. Kangaroo, 256. King, Lake, 257, 258. Kansas City, 259. Kellar, Auerbach’s, 294. Kennedy, Mr., 297, 306. Kintore, Earl of, 316. King George’s Sound, 296, 318, 339. King Point, 318. Kilimanjaro, 349. Kandy, 359. Kamehameha, 377, 405. Kafirs, 384, 386, 388, 390, 393, 394, 401, 404, 411, 414, 416, 420, 421, 422, 426, 428, 430, 432, 481, 483, 484, 488. Kraals, 389, 392, 394, 395, 398, 401, 421. Kafir Corn, 397. Kafir aria, 405. Kimberley, 409, 419, 422 et seq., 424, 427, 428, 447. Koodoo (Bok), 419. Koohinoor Diamond, 424. Kenilworth, 428. Karroo, Great Desert, 448. Kloof, the, 460. Kalk Bay, 462. Kalahari Desert, 483. Kei River, 484. Kroos, the, 492. L. Lockwood, Captain, 8, 15, 16, 18. La Libertad, 24, 26. Laughery, Robert W., Consul, 33. Lloyd, Mr., 41, 43. Los Angeles, 43, 94. Lucas, Judge Dan, 47. Lewis, Daingerfield, 48. INDEX. 541 Leigh, J. Wickham, 51, 53, 54, 62. Langtry, Mr. J. H., 59, 70, 86. Li Hung Chang, 65, 113. Lick, James, 66. Latham, Senator, 66. Leander and Hero, 141. Leipsic, 149. Lark, English, 154. Littleton, 162, 168. Llamas, 167. Lombardy Poplar, 171, 173, 194. Linnet (Hew Zealand), 177, 179. Lindis Pass, 188. Lizards, 194, 488. Lumsden, 203. Lempriere, Dr. and Mrs., 218, 225. Launceston, 229, 230. Louisville, Ky., 235. Lee, Cassius, 236. Lesesne, Mr. James P., Consul, 240. Latrobe River, 250, 258. Lakes’ Entrance, 250, 257. Lyre Bird, 250, 256. Laughing Jackass Bird, 256. Lake King, 257, 258. La Perouse, 278. Lachlan River, 284. Liverpool Range, 291. Liverpool Plains, 291. Lamb, Charles, 294. Leipsic, 294. Lestenberger, Mr., 312, 314, 330. Lofty, Mount, 314, 315. Layard, Mr. E. C., 316 et seq., 328, 329, 331, 332, 333, 334, 335, 336, 339, 340, 416, 455, 463, 507. Layard, Mr. (Nineveh), 317, 507. Lee, General Robert E., 334. Lava, 351. Louis, Port, 353. Lace-leaf Plant, 356. Land Tortoises, 346, 350, 356. Lagune, 374. Lemur, 375. Lemuria, 375, 495. Lamba, 376. Lorraine, 380. Linnets (Africa), 393. Ladysmith, 398, 399, 400. Lamer, Captain, 410. Lions, 435. Lion’s Head Mountain, 456, 460, 479. Liturgy, our, 169, 459, 488. Lion’s Rump, 479. Leading, Rev. Mr., 488. Locksley Hall, 491. Liberia, 491. London, 500 et seq. Lubbock, Sir John, 505. Laurence, Charles, 510. Lyndhurst, 511, 513. Leighton, Sir F., 513. Lyndhurst Station, 513. Legg and Welsh, 520. Long Beach, 524. Liggitts’ Bookstore, 526. M. Mason, Dr., 1. Modjeska, 3. Materialism, 5. McCord, Mr., 10. Moon, the, 12, 13, 15. May si. Cape, 14. Mariato Point, 21. Mexico, 29, 30, 34. McElheny, Miss and Brother, 33. Mansanillo, 34, 351. Mazatlan, 37, 38. Mosby, Colonel, 50 et seq. McKinney, Governor, 52, 72, 74. Morse, Captain, 55 et seq., 87, 92, 116, 118, 297. Madden, Mr., 59. Maury, Commodore Jefferson, 60 et seq., 62, 66, 68, 70, 75, 89. Maynard, Colonel J. C., 68. Mixed Schools and Colleges, Male and Female, 72, 247, 282. Menlo Park, 73. Minneapolis, 89. Malfroy, Mr. C., 91 et seq., 116, 121, 127 128 et seq., 139, 146, 197. Molokai Island, 94. McFarlane, Mr., 104 et seq., 112, 113. 542 INDEX. Melbourne, 119, 125, 128 et seq., 172, 203, 228, 233 et seq., 259, 264, 265 et seq., 268, 309, 311. Marx, Mr., i21. Mahoris, 123, 141, 146, 151, 159, 167, 177, 320. Manukou, 130. Manikou, 136. Mitchell, Mr., 137. Mahori Pah, 139. Mokoia, 141. Mannering, Sir Philip and Lady, 142 et seq., 147, 151, 240. Mahori War Club, 146. Mobs of Sheep, 147, 152. Maecenas, 156. Meat- Freezing Establishment, 157. Manawatu Gorge, 159. Matson, Mr., 166. Moa, the, 167. Mount Cook, 170 et seq., 172 et seq., 173, 180, 183, 185, 190, 256. Matterhorn, the, 174, 180. Miiller, Mount, 175, 176, 180. Muir Glacier, 175. Moraines, 175, 176, 181. Makomako, the, 177. Mosquito, the, 178. Moka, the, 179, 192. Mackelwraith, Sir Thomas, 181, 182, 183, 203, 205, 208, 210, 213, 214, 215, 219, 225, 241. Mein, Charles Stuart, 182, 292. Mesas, 190, 194. Manuka, 192, 218. Mossgiel, 203. Most, Herr, 214. Mararoa, S. S., 215, 216. Minneapolis, 217. Magellan, Straits of, 223. McClennan River, 250, 253. Marsh Hen, 250. Merrangbaur, 250, 257. Mitchell River, 257, 258. Max Meadows, 260. Moliagul, 261. Moore, Tom, 264. Mexico, City of, 265. Murray River, 271, 284. Messageries Maritimes Line, 273, 296, 353. Marseilles, 273. Moore, Father, 276. Murrumbidgee River, 284. Macintyre River, 284. Mississippi River, 284. Maitland, 291. Murrurundi, 291. Mah4, Island of, 296, 299, 319, 328, 331, 332, 335, 336, 337, 340, 350, 351, 509. Madagascar, Island of, 296, 348, 350, 355, 373, 378, 379, 485. Mauritius, 296, 328, 331, 332, 337, 338, 352 et seq., 365, 368 et seq. Mohammedans, 304, 348, 372. Meem, Hugh, 310. Marseilles, 312, 335, 336. Morepork Bird, 315. Malaysia, 321. Moluccas, 321. Malay Race, 321, 351, 355, 360, 375, 377. Melanesia, 321. Mikronesia, 321. Macawber, Mr., 323. “ My Maryland,” 334. Mansell, Miss, 342 et seq. McDonald, Mr., 346. Mulattoes, 347, 351. Mozambique Channel, 348, 381. Mohilla Island, 348. Mayotta Island, 348. Mascarenas Islands, 352. Maheburg, 357, 358, 360, 361. Mapou, 363. Missionaries, 373, 377, 378, 379, 380, 381, 385, 485. Malagasses, 376, 377. Marie, Saint, Island, 378. Mananjara, 378. Mary, St., Cape, 379. Monsoon, 382. Mealies, 392. Mexican, the S. S., 404, 480. Mole Hills, 416. Mimosa, the, 416. Moss, 416. INDEX. 543 Mamba Snake, 419. Modder Eiver, 422. Matabeleland, 435 et seq., 484. Masbonaland, 435 et seq., 442 et seq. Mauch, Mr., 436 et seq. Maund, Mr., 439 et seq. Majuba Hill, 440. Minstrels, Negro, 459, 479. Manikos Country, 484. Madeira Islands, 495 et seq. Morocco, 497. Montagu, Lord, 500, 514. Monitor Ship, a, 500. Mayflower, the, 511. Minstead, 512. Mark Ash, 513. Margate, 514. Morton, Mrs. Dr., 523. Mulock, Miss (Mrs. Craik), 523. Manhattan Beach, 524. N. New York City, 1, 522, 524, 526. Neill, Mr., 10. Negro, 11, 248, 304, 347, 349, 351, 355, 358, 360, 365, 375, 376, 386, 396, 404, 411, 426, 432, 459, 463, 479, 484, 491, 493. Nicaragua, 24. Nelson, Mrs., 45, 47, 464. Nilson, Horace, 54. New Zealand, 63, 65, 73, 76, 91, 92, 116, 119, 126 et seq., 219 to 222, 273, 320, 321, 452. Navigator’s Islands, 116. New Philosophy, the, 117, 331. Napier, 143, 153 et seq., 156. Niagara Falls, 148. Nova de Fribourga, 158, 249. Nead, Mr. and Mrs., 168 et seq., 170, 216, 272, 273, 274, 276, 279, 293, 306, 310, 312, 330, 333, 339, 351, 354, 364, 376, 391, 395, 401, 402, 410, 413, 424, 429, 432, 458, 480, 486, 496, 500. Norway Rat, the, 177. Newcastle, 190, 193, 195, 291. Nicholl’s Creek Falls, 207. Natal, 224, 296, 354, 366, 373, 381, 384, 386, 389, 394, 405, 408, 421, 481, 484. Nelson, Mount, 225. New Norfolk, 228. Newcastle, S. Ship, 230. Nulton, Fred, 235. Norton, Dr., 236. Nowa Nowa, 251, 252. New South Wales, 271 et seq., 279, 280, 291, 320. Nepean Eiver, 283, 287. New England, 291. New Caledonia, 306, 317. Numea, 317. New Guinea, 321. Nossi Burra Island, 378. Nossi B4, 378. Napoleon III., 380. Neptune, 382. Newcastle (Natal), 399. Napoleon, Prince Imperial, 405. New Mexico, 421. Nu Garieb River, 422. Norrie, Mr., 433. North Cape, 454. Nautilus, 493. Needles, the, 500, 519. Netley Military Hospital, 500, 515. Netley Abbey, 500, 515 et seq. New Forest, 500, 511 et seq., 515. Nugent, Mr., 505. New Foundland Banks, 521. “ Noble Life,” a, 523. o. O’Ferrell, Colonel, 2. Ocean, the, 13. Oahu Island, 94 et seq., 104. Orizaba, 122. Orlando, the Steamship, 131. Oxford, 137. Ohinemutu, 138, 146. Organ Mountains, 158. Opium Den, 163. Ostriches, 166, 167, 410, 411, 412, 417, 421. Oorangi (Mount Cook), 175. 1 Ohou River, 186. 544 INDEX. Omararaa, 186. Oats, 196, 202, 449. O’Rourke, Sir Maurice, 208, 213, 2i4, 215. Oysters, 218. Oglebie, Mr., 276. Oceana, 321. Oil Islands, 350. Ophelia and Hamlet, 356. Oranges, 392. Ox- Wagons, 394, 395, 414, 422, 431. Orange River, 398, 422. Orange Free State, 404, 405, 415, 482. Outspanning, 414. Ophir, 436 et seq., 445 et seq. Ober-Aramergau, 498, 504, 526. Osborne, 500, 516. P. Peru, 10, 322, 421. Panama, 12 6< seq., 16, 19. Priests, Catholic, 14 el seq., 26, 27. Panama Canal, 17, 159. Parker, Captain W. H., 31. Ponce de Leon Hotel, 43. Pedras Blancas, 44. Political Economy and Philosophy, 49. Porter, Thos. A., 51. Paris Bourse, 67. Paris Exposition, 91. Preston, General John S., 92. Pango-Pango, 122, 123. Polynesians, 123, 167, 317. Postal Union, 129, 234, 280, 299. Pah, Mahori, 139. Pohatu, 140, 143. Pakehem, 145. Pheasant, New Zealand, 154. Pigeon, New Zealand, 154. Palmerston, 157, 159. r Parasites, 159. Pigs, 167. Polo, Game of, 168. Pukaki, 172 el seq., 173, 185. Pukaki Lake and River, 174, 190. Pak4ha, the, 177. Parrot, the, 178. Partridge, the, 179. Paradise Ducks, 187. Pembroke, 188, 194. Pigeon Island, 192. Pisistratus Caxton, 193. Punt, 193. Parsons, Mr., 199, 202, 208. Port Chalmers, 202, 208, 218. Philadelphia, 204. Paducah, 229. Pulpit Rock, 233. Port Philip, 233, 259, 313. Promised Land, 258. Port Jackson, 274, 320. Parramatta, and River, 276 el seq., 287, 304. Perouse, La, 278. Plato, 279. Port Darwin, 281. Peat’s Ferry, 287. Prize Fighting, 289. Pigeon, a, 316. Princess Royal Harbor, 318. Possession Point, 318. Perth, 319, 320. Phillipines, 321. Papuans, 321. Polynesia, 321. Philanthropists, the, 321, 385. Port Victoria, 338. Praslin Island, 346. Providence Island, 350. Point du Galets, 351. Piton de la Fournaise, Mount, 351. Peter Botte, Mount, 353, 357, 364. Pouce, Mount, 353, 357, 364. Port Louis, 353, 359. Pamplemousses, 354, 357, 363. Palm Tree, 356. Paul and Virginia, 356. Pariah, 358. Public School, 363, 488. Prune Island, 373. Phaeton, 383. Puff Adder, 386. Pietermaritzburg, 391, 393, 396. Pulque, Mexican, 395. Port Elizabeth, 401, 406, 408, 412, 417, 435. INDEX. 545 Pretorius, 406. Panda, 406. Penguin Eggs, 410. Prickly Pear, 417. Port Wine, 419. Pullman (city), 428. Pyramids, 436. Portuguese, 438 et seq. Phoenicians, 436 et seq. Pease, Mr., 480, 486. Pillars of Hercules, 495. Porto Santo, 497. Philip II., 510. Pilgrim Fathers, 511. Palmerston, 511. Pohle, Captain, 521. Passion Play, 498, 504, 526. Q. Quibo Islands, 21. Queenstown, 184, 191, 195, 196, 200. QueensclifF, 233. Queensland, 290 et seq., 291, 320. R. Eieli, Mr., 3. Eepublican Party, 17. Kives, Colonel Alfred, 17. Eeporters, 50. Eogers, Mr. Arthur, 72. Eowley, Mr., 121, 127. Eed Clover, 137, 166. Eapa, the, 138. Eotorua, Lake, 138 et seq., 141. Ehone, the Eiver, 147, 150. Euapehu, 150. Ehodes, Messrs., 150 et seq., 154, 158, 164. Euns, 158, 190, 229. Eak'aia, the Eiver, 171. Eangitata, the Eiver, 171. Eaven, the, 179. Eabbits, 187, 188, 192, 193, 201, 203, 299, 300 et seq., 322, 324. Eussell, Mrs., Hotel, 188. Eobbins, 192. 35 Eowney, Sinclair, 199, 201, 202, 207, 217, 218, 293, 294, 295. Eitchie, Mrs., 199, 217, 295. Eemarkables, the Mountains, 201. Eutherford, Mr., 217, 225. Eobertson, Angus, 218, 225, 226, 229, 241. Eobinsons of Louisville, 235. Eace Question, 248, 249, 252, 254, 388, 390, 484, 485. Eoadknight, Mr., 258. Eeuter’s Telegraph, 274. Eyde, 277, 287. Eockhampton, 293. Eoast Pig, 294. Eio de Janeiro, 309, 454, 524. Eichmond, Va., 311. Eio Grande, Steamship, 339. Eotonde Island, 346. Eeunion Island, 347, 350 et seq. Eoderiguez Island, 352. Eupee, 358. Eipon, Lord, 358. Eosehelle, 360. Eogers, 376. Eattle Snake, 386. Ehee Bok, 419. Eainbow on Table Mountain, 462. Eubens, 508. Eembrandt, 508. Eichard Coeur de Lion, 510. Eamsgate, 514. Eoherts, Mr. Lewis, 519 et seq., 525. Eockaway, 524. s. Starke, Mr., 2. Syracuse, New York, 5. Small, Mrs. Kate, 6. Sargasso Sea, 11, 493. Sisal, 13. San Francisco, 15, 39, 44, 45, 46 et seq.. 49 et seq., 69, 70, 84, 89, 90, 120, 124, 241, 260. Stuart, Colonel John, 16 et seq. San Bias, Steamer, 16 et seq., 18. Saint Leben, Dr., 21 et seq., 23, 31, 34, 51, 53. INDEX. 546 Southern Cross, 23, 121, 188, 288. San Salvador, 24, 25. San J nan River, 24. Sky Pilots, 26. San Josg, 27, 28. Southgate, Mr. and Mrs., 33, 35. Sherk, Miss, 33. San Bias, 36. Sword Fish, 37. Saint Lucas, 39, 40. San Diego, 43. St. Augustine, 43. San Gabriel, Mount, 43. San Antonio, Mount, 43. San Bernardino, 43. San Pedro, 43. Smith, Miss Mary, 51. State Debt, 52, 248, 486-7, 498. Stanford, Senator, 59, 64, 73. Stock Exchange, 61, 65, 67. Sutro Park, 63. Sutro, Mr. Adolph, 63 el seq., 64, 65, 71. Seal Rocks, 64. Supreme Court, 67. Selden, Major M. C., 68. Shoe Factory, 70, 269. Sandwich Islands, 87, 88, 89, 94, 104 ei seq., 112, 151. Sydney, 87, 124, 126, 170, 245, 259, 268 et seq., 273, 279, 283, 304, 309, 320, 339. Salvation Ai’my, 92, 169, 279, 404. Severance, Mr., 114. Samoan Islands, 116, 119, 122, 142. Smyth, Mr. and Mrs., 116, 121, 125. Shelton, Professor E. M., 116, 292. Sawaii, 122. Scandinavian, 123. Sturrock, Mr. and Mrs., 125, 128, 130, 131, 143, 146, 149, 172. Sage Bush, 136, 417. Slagle, Henry, 137. Strawberries, 137. Shrimpton, Mrs. Walter, 138 et seq. Scotch Thistle, 138, 193. Sweet Briar, the, 138. Scott, Mr., 143, 144. Sheep, Mobs of, 147, 152. Scrub, 152, 153. Sparrow, English, 152. Sparrow, New Zealand, 154. Swan, New Zealand, 154. Sheep, Auction, 162. Sheep-Freezing Establishment, 165. Southern Alps, 168 et seq., 190. Sheep Stations, 173, 174, 185, 187, 190, 194, 214, 229, 292. Sefton, Mount, 173. Sebastopol, Mount, 175. Smith, Mr., 176, 184. Sand Flies, 178. Selwyn, Mount, 181. Smith, Asher, 192. Squatters, 193, 211, 229, 324. St. Patrick, 194. Stukes, 196, 202. See Hoy (a Chinaman), 197. Shoemaker in Queenstown, 197. Spear’s Hotel, 200. Southey, 217. Smythe, Mr., 218, 224. Stewart Island, 218, 219. Samson, 223. Scotland, 223. Smith, Alexander, 233. Schauk, Captain, 233. Shoe Factory, 234. Single Land Tax, 236 et seq. Sale, 249, 250, 259. Stringy Bark, 254. Spear, Australian, 256. Snapper Fish, 258. Scarborough, 258. St. Louis, 259. St. Joseph, 259. Stine, Henry, 259. Suez Canal, 273. Snakes, Australian, 275. Snake, the Tiger, 275. Snake, the, 275. Socrates, 279. Street, Mrs., 286. Sackville Reach, 288. Sequoia Gigantea, 292. Suez, 297. INDEX. 547 Smith, Mrs,, 297, 306. St. Vincent, Gnlf of, 313. Singapore, 321. Sumatra, 321. Sharks, 328. Suwanee River, 334. Smith, Sydney, 335. Sir Walter Scott, 336. Seychelles Islands, 338, 346, 348, 356. Sunley, Mr., 349, 351, 353. Stephens, Mr., 349, 448, 449. St. Denis, 351. Sand, George, 351. Scott, Mr., 354, 355. Smithsonian Institute, 357. Souillac, 360, 361, Savanne, 361. Storms, 367 et seq. Sakalavas, the, 377. St. Mary, Cape, 379. South America, 385. Smith, Mr. (Natal), 394. Shakespeare’s Witches, 396. South African Republic, 405. South Africa, 406, 415, 420, 421, 427, 461, 479. Skating Rink, 411. Sherry Wine, 419. Spring Bok, 419. Stein Bok, 419. Snow Bergen Mountains, 420. Storm Bergen Mountains, 420. Star of South Africa Diamond, 423. Seymour, Louis I., 424, 429, 430, 432, 454, 464 et seq. Saginaw, Michigan, 428. Saltaire, 428. Southampton, 433, 464, 479, 498 et seq., 510 et seq., 514, 518. Sheba, Queen of, 436 et seq., 484. Solomon’s Mines, 436 et seq. Summer of the World, 451. School Bill, Blair, 457. Simonstown, 462. Sofala, 484. Stanley, Henry, 484. Saint Helena, 488. Sunset, 490. Senegambia, 493. Senegal River, 493. Santiago Island, 493. St. Vincent Island, 493. Soudan, the, 493. Sahara Desert, 493, 497. Solent, 500, 519. Seven Dials, 508. St. Paul’s, 506. St. James Palace, 509. Stoney Cross, 512. Scarborough, 514. Spithead, 519. T. Taylor, Charles S., 7, 42. Thorndyke, Mr., 10, 18. Tod, Mr., 10, 11, 18, 33, 35, 36, 43, 65. Tidball, Cousin Mary, 16, 48, 70, 71, 93, 235, 527. Todd, Mrs., 21. Teutons, 21, 28. 'Propics, 23, 116, 118, 125, 330, 331, 335, 339, 347, 352, 355, 357, 361, 365, 374, 378, 401, 480, 486, 490. Tehuantepec, 30, 31. Tacubaya, 33. Thornton, Judge James D., 50 et seq., 52, 54, 55, 59, 62, 63, 65, 68, 71, 72, 75, 76, 78, 81, 87, 117. Trollope’s Australia, 53. Theatre, 56. Tevis, Mr. and Mrs., 57. Treadwell, Mr. J. W., 66. Terry, General, 66. Topsy, 74, 456. Trade Winds, 116, 118, 120, 347, 494. Tutuila, 119, 122, 123, 124. Turner, Mr., 119, 121. Trenton, Man of War, 123. Tutanekai, 141. Tongaris, 142. Tiketeri, 142. Terraces, 144, 145, 190, 194, 195. Tausso, 147 et seq., 150. Tongariro, 150. 548 INDEX. Tarawera, 150. Tasmania, 159, 184, 211, 219, 225, 230, 231, 232, '320. Timaru, 171, 172, 184. Tekapo, 173, 184. Tasman, Mount, 173. Tasman River, 174, 175. Tasman Glacier, 175. Tom Tit, 177, 179. Tussock, 185, 195, 218, 292. Trout, 185. Tarn, 192. Thomas, Concert in Chicago, 205. Tamar River, 231, 232. Tiger, Bengal, 241. Tyers, Lake, 251, 252. Throwing Stick, 255, 258, 400. Telegram to Taylor, 274, 280. Tiger Snake, 275. Torrens River, 314. Tasmanian Devil, 315. Ticknor, George, 336. Tortoises, Land, 346, 350, 356. Toby, Uncle, 348. Turtles, 350. Traveller’s Tree, 355. Trois Mamelles, 357. Tamatave, 374 et seq. Taiianarivo, 374, 377. Tabu, 377. Trojan Horse, 378. Transvaal, 385, 404, 406, 428, 435, 482. Tugela River, 399. Ten Thousand, the, 403. Table Mountain, 420, 450 et seq., 460, 462, 479. Tigers, 435. Touro River, 448. Thompson, S. Mudie, 479. Table Bay, 480. Trojan Horse, 483. Teneriffe, 494, 495. Training Ship, U. S., 500, 510. Trafalgar Square, 501. Turner (Painter), 508. Tyrrell, Walter, 512 et seq. Test or Anton River, 516. Theatres, 526. u. Utter, Charles H., 9, 11, 18. Upton, Miss, 116. Upolu Island, 122, 123. Uganruhoe, 150. Uncle Toby, 223. Umgeni River, 402. Umlazi, 402. Uitenhage, 411, 412. Uxmal Ruins, 436. Uppington, Sir T., 463. V. Vera Cruz, 29. Virginia, 52, 117, 289, 305. Variety Company, 118. Victoria, 119, 121, 192, 233, 260, 271, 300, 320, 321, 322, 483. Victoria, Queen, 139, 244, 317, 318. Visp, Valley of the, 174. Vine, Mr., 176, 183, 185, 197, 202, 203. Virginia State Debt, 52, 248, 486, 487, 498, 504. Victoria, Lake, 250. Vampire, 256. Volunteers of New South Wales, 290. Victoria, Port, 339. Vanilla, 346. Vegetable Ivory, 356. Vaal River, 398, 405, 423. Verulain, 401, 402. Vasco de Gama, 405, 481. Van Riebeck, 481. Verde, Cape, 487, 492, 493. Ventriloquist, 490. Verde, Cape, Islands, 493, 495. Vincent, St., Island, 493. w. Walters, W. T., 8. Winters, Mrs. William, 11, 18 et seq., 46. Williamson, Dr. Charles H., 19. Whale, 37, 311. Winchester, Gathering and Speaking, 49. Wells, Fargo & Co. Express, 59, 70. INDEX. 549 Watson, Captain, 62, 80. Whar^, 136, 141, 142, 151. Waikato River, 136, 140, 146, 147, 148, 150, 185. Whakarewarewa, 139 et seq., 143. Wairoa, 140. Waiotapu Valley, 143, 145. War Club, Mahori, 146. Wairakei, 147. Wairakei River, 147. Woodville, 157, 158, Wellington, 157, 160. Washington, 159, 169, 224. Wren, the New Zealand, 177. White Man, the, 177, 390, 393, 402, 404. Woodland Hen, 179, 183. Wanaka, Lake, 184, 188, 190, 191, 194. Waitaki River, 186. Wakatipu, Lake, 191, 196, 197, 199. Weka, 192. Wheat, 196, 202, 235, 449. Westport, 197. VVaimea Plains, 203. Waters of Leith, 207. Wordsworth, 217, 336. Wellington, Mount, 225, 226. Warragul, 249. Wellington, Lake, 250. Wattle, the, 251, 252. Wallabys, 256. Wines, 285, 418, 449, 461. Windsor, 289. West, Robert G., 289. Wallangarra, 290. Werris Creek, 296. Wheeler, Mr., 297, 306. Wilson, Mr. James, 299, 322. Wilson’s Promontory, 311. Winder, Captain, 373, 456. W., Major, 373. Worth, 390. Water Bok, 419. Winter Bergen Mountains, 420, 448. Williams, j\Ir. Gardner, 424, 425, 428, 433, 464 et seq. Wolfe, George F., 429, 431, 479, 480, 486, 496. Ward, Mr., 432. Worcester, 449. Wellington (South Africa), 449. Wight, Isle of, 500. William Rufus, 500. Winchester, England, 501. Werra, S. Ship, 504, 507 et seq., 519 et seq., Winchester, Va., 506, 520, 525. Whitechapel, 508. Westminster School, 508. Westminster Abbey, 506, 507. Wellington, Duke of, 506. Watts, Isaac, 511. William Rufus, King, 512. Walter Tyrrell, 512. Welsh and Legg, 520. " X. Xenophon, 403. Y. Yucatan, 13, 436. Yokohama, 126, 493. Yellowstone Park, 140, 142, 143, 148, 149. York Cape, 319. Young Australians, 325. Young Americans, 325. z. Zelandia, the Steamer, 124, 273, 279. Zanthippe, 279. Zanzibar, 349, 350. Zululand, 399, 405. Zum Bergen Mountains, 420. Zimbabye, 436 et seq. Zwartz Mountains, 448. 9. yi , ' ■ 'if' j .'3^- ■■, (, . j:"-. ■ ■ h^'. ;V-f y. ;,',■■■( ir"'V. . tr f;,:t f .4 'V. . 9 " * . . ; "i ' ■ ■ ' ■■ ■■