The Coast Country OF TEXAS A GENERAL STUDY OF THE REGION, TOGETHER "WITH A BRIEF OUTLINEOF ITS HISTORY, ITS AGRICULTURAL AND HISTORICAL POSSIBILITIES, ITS SOCIAL CONDITIONS AND INDUCEMENTS To HOME-SEEKERS. BY H. S. J^N EEDLER. CINCINNATI, O.- The A. H. Pugii Printing Company, 1896. EXPLANATORY. T HE purpose of this little book is to truthfully describe the Coast Country of Texas, a region with respect to which most people outside of that great commonwealth are singularly uninformed. The object is not to magnify its advantages nor to hide any of its disadvantages. If the author has anywhere erred it has not been through an intention to deceive nor a want of honest effort to arrive at the truth. He personally visited all portions of the region, met and was aided by representative and intelligent citizens, to whom he hereby makes acknowledgment, and investigated the capability of the soil, its adaptability to the crops mentioned, the heathful ness of the region, the matter of water supply, the experience of old and new settlers, and everything which could contribute to the enlighten- ment of prospective settlers. The fertility of the soil he knew of, but he did not know how charming the landscape was, how the rolling prairie was diversified by abundant woodland and enriched by many clear streams. The thrift and solidity of the towns ; the intelligence and wealth and enterprise of the people were factors that awakened enthusiasm. Of these much is to be said in the pages that follow, and if what is there exploited shall incite the restless farmer of the north or east, weary of the struggle under adverse conditions of soil or climate, to visit this Coast Country the end shall have been ac- complished. For if such will come and see the possibilities for pro- longed life, for larger returns than are possible anywhere else, and with a minimum expenditure of labor, they will confirm what is here set forth and be grateful to the humble medium of their enlighten- ment. WHERE AND WHEN The Coast Country of Texas, which this modest pamphlet has been prepared to make better known to the world, may be roughly de- scribed as a strip of country from fifty to eighty miles wide, fronting on the Gulf of Mexico, and extending from the Sabine River on the east to the Neuces River on the southwest. Take a good map of Texas and you will see that the Sabine forms the boundary between Texas and Louisiana. From Orange the line of the Southern Pacific Railway bears west by a little south to Houston and Rosenberg. From the latter point the New York, Texas and Mexican, and the Gulf, Western Texas, and Pacific Railways, forming a part of what is known as the Southern Pacific Sunset Route, diverge southward to Beeville, where connection is made with the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railroad. The lines referred to from Orange to Beeville pass through the very center of the region to be described, what is known as the Coast Country of Texas, so that as your eye follows the line of the road it will grasp the topographical characteristics of the region under consideration. We can roughly put it at thirty-five thousand square miles of territory. And when it is described as a rural paradise where the marvelous fertility of the soil and the wonderful salubrity of the climate make an ideal combination ; where almost every grain and fruit and vegetable grows with a prodigality unknown elsewhere ; where health is the handmaiden of industry, and the toil of life Joses its hard aspect and labor has its just reward ; a region where all these elements are not only conjectural possibilities but realized certainties, and yet where land contiguous to railways and markets can be still purchased for from $5 to $12 per acre, the intellectual reader will ask, with a tinge of suspicious skepticism : “If this coast region is all you say it is why is land so cheap ? ” That is a matter to be made plain in the very beginning, for without a knowledge of the facts the prospective settler at the north or east would doubt what follows. He would reason, and very sen- sibly too, that a region so favored as we shall show this to be would have long since been populous and farm values greatly enhanced. Except for the extraordinary conditions which have prevailed here this would have been true of the Coast Country. And right here the writer makes a prediction. In ten years from now — in 1906 — should a copy of this brochure survive so long and fall into the hands of a resident of the Coast Country, he will marvel that it was ever needed to exploit its advantages, and will deem it almost incredible that so 4 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. little while agone its fertile lands could have been purchased so cheaply. To understand the circumstances which have until the present time kept the price of lands in the Coast Country at such a low fig- ure, we must briefly review its history. We have seen within a de- cade lands selling at equally low figures in the north and middle west. There great areas of hitherto unpopulated country were opened to settlement. Their agricultural possibilities were unknown. The short summers and long winters, with their late springs, drouths and early frosts were indeed matters of common knowledge. But be- cause there has been a hereditary madness to pursue lines of emigra- tion upon the same latitudes, men settled upon them until in a few years they had practically all been taken up. The course of emigra- tion for centuries was westward, always westward. It became a habit of thought with men to believe that as their fathers had wrested a livelihood from the soil during a few summer months and consumed during the long winters what they had earned during the brief period of sowing and harvest, so they should do like- wise. And in spite of the rigors of a climate that preyed upon their health and denied them more than moderate rewards for industry, prejudice and ignorance were so firmly fixed that only a compara- tively few of the more adventurous broke away from the vast army of emigration and set their faces toward the richer promise-land of the south. To-day these bid their friends come and share with them the prosperity they have found. They invite them to come not to a wil- derness where the institutions of civilization must be freshly set up, but to a country old in its settlement, with all its social fabric organ- ized, where the church and schoolhouse have for two generations been the beacons of enlightenment ; where hospitable homes have long opened their doors ; where the carriers of commerce draw them near to the markets of the world ; where the willing and industrious settler of modest means has before him the sure promise of comfortable afflu- ence ; where congenial sunshine and pure gulf breezes conspire to lengthen life, and prosperous cities and thriving towns afford all the advantages and amenities of life. And now as to the reason why the Coast Country of Texas, with all these fortuitious elements, has for so long been a closed region to the outside world, a veritable terra incognita to the eager emigrant in search of the land flowing with milk and honey. Sailing far out of his course in the search for the mouth of the Mississippi, La Salle, in 1685, entered Matagorda Bay, and a little while after built a fort on Lavaca River. Unhappy as was its brief career, this was to all intents and purposes the first European THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 5 settlement in what we now know as Texas. And of the region which he traversed and mapped, the Coast Country, La Salle sent back to his royal master, Louis XIV., the most glowing accounts. Upon the founding of this so-called colony France vested its claim to all the lands between Mexico and Louisana. But Spain, by right of the early explorations of Narvaes, Coronado and Espejas, and the conquests of Cortez, laid claim to. the disputed territory. Then Spain set about building its chain of missions from the Rio Grande to the Sabine, and each religious establishment became a presidio or military camp, so that while the indefatigable fathers spread abroad the fruits of their civilizing influence the soldiers welded fast the chain that made the Spanish claim good. In 1728 the Spanish Government sent over a colony, but after that seems to have repented of its good work, for even after its claim was made valid by the purchase of Louis- iana, and population made to increase, the crown enforced such obnoxious laws that the growth of the territory was retarded and en- terprise effectually throttled. The closing years of the eighteenth century and the opening decade of the nineteenth were troublous ones. In Mexico revolution succeeded revolution until in 1823 a re- public was established. The condition of Spain was deplorable, for it was rent by foreign wars and domestic discord. The United States had claimed that under the terms of its purchase of Louisiana, in 1803, it owned all the country east of the Rio Grande, but this dispute finally adjusted itself to a recognition of the Sabine as the dividing line. Dur- ing this period numerous expeditions of adventurous Americans made incursions into Texas for purposes of conquest, and the buccaneers of the gulf established their headquarters along the sheltered coast. Yet, in spite of the turmoil of the times and the dangers that har- rassed them alike from faithless Spanish officials and warlike Indians, many excellent American families had settled in the country and maintained the refinement of their lives in this then far off wilder- ness. But with the arrival of Moses Austin, in 1820, began the era of colonization which, while it laid the foundations of the great state of to-day, in large measure accounts for the fact that until a few years ago population was sparse in the Coast Country. Moses Austin and his son, Stephen F. Austin, Martin de Leon, Green De Witt, Hayden Edwards and others, styled empresarios — we would now call them by the less impressive title of colonization agents— secured important con- cessions from the Mexican republic to settle colonies in Texas. These concessions were accompanied by immense grants of land. Ten leagues of coast land had been reserved by the government for its own purposes, but this was thrown open to settlement in 1828. Under 6 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS the wise and progressive policy which adhered from 1820 to 1830, twenty thousand Americans settled in Texas, but in the latter year, under an illiberal and narrow-minded administration, a policy of op- pression was inaugurated and revolution followed and continued until 1836, when the heroic Texans were victorious and established after six years of desperate and almost continuous struggle, the republic which they had fought for. During these years of uncertainty and doubt, when every Ameri- ican was harrassed and in danger, when property was insecure and law had become a shadow, it is not surprising that the land drifted into great holdings. At that time, and for many years after, it was chiefly valuable for the pasturage of vast herds of cattle. The great grants originally made were maintained in their integrity, while others equally great grew up about them and absorbed the land which, under other circumstances, would have been divided into small holdings. Estates of a hundred thousand acres were deemed small and those of half a million or a million acres were not uncommon. It was bought and sold for twelve and fifteen cents per acre. The herds of cattle which grazed upon it all the year round and needed no other feed to make them ready for the market, brought fabulous wealth to their owners, who were naturally reluctant to break up their holdings, and who re- sented the encroachments of the small farmer as a menace to their prosperity. But the most obstinate or reluctant could not stem the march of emigration, and gradually as the news went abroad that here upon the coast of Texas was a fair and fertile land, the prospector came, secured a foothold, and remained to prove that all that had been claimed for it was true. Cities grew up into great centers of trade and industry. Towns that had slumbered for generations awoke to new life. The railroad aggressively pushed its way in to create new industries and foster old ones. Colonization agents purchased large tracts and divided them that many might share the advantages. And the new values put upon land induced the owners of the great estates to put their property on the market, for when properties which they had bought for twelve cents an acre came to have a value of four or five dollars, and taxes, that had been an unknown factor, rose to what they thought the enormous sum of eighty cents on the hundred dollars at one-third valuation, and when highways were cut through their great pastures to facilitate the progress of the encroaching agriculturist, they saw the handwriting on the wall of their future and were willing to surrender to the inevitable. A Home in the Lower Coast Country. A PEN PICTURE OF THE COAST COUNTRY. Aside from certain local differences which are not important in a general review, the Coast Country may be separated into two divis- ions for descriptive purposes, the design in this instance being merely to convey to the reader an idea as to how the region appears to the eye. There are many people in this country who think of Texas as a great treeless plain. The writer confesses that he had much the same impression until he visited the state. The geographies he studied as a boy emphasized the “ staked plains ” and were singularly de- ficient with respect to any other information, and his teachers had as little knowledge of the country. 8 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- We must remember that Texas is a very large state, so vast that from its eastern to its western border the distance is almost as great as that which separates Chicago from New Orleans or New York from Chicago. From north to south it is 756 miles ; from east to west 872 miles. Its area is 274, 356 square miles, 33,413 square miles larger than the Austrian Empire, which sustains a population of 35,904,535. It is 62,265 square miles larger than the German Empire, whose in- habitants number 41,058,139. It is 70,265 square miles larger than France, which sustains within its borders 36,905,788 people ; and fin- ally it is more than twice the size of England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales combined, which support a population of 31,817,108. In a word Texas is capable of sustaining upon her surface in ease and pros- perity a population of 60,000,000. The present population is 3,000,- 000. The topography of the state is exceptional. From the level Coast Country, where little rock is found, the altitude gradually in- creases to the northern borders, where it reaches an elevation of over 3,500 feet. Northern Texas is distinctly the wheat region, although there are also productive cotton lands bordering the Red River ; east- ern Texas contains the vast forests of pine ; central Texas is a great cotton growing region ; western and southwestern Texas is specially adapted to wool growing and cattle raising ; the Pan Handle is adapted to the growth of the cereals, and wheat, corn and oats are rapidly en- croaching upon the stock ranges. Texas is not exclusively an agri- cultural state. It has vast deposits of valuable minerals, and its un- derground wealth is but partially explored. Coal is plentiful ; one bituminous coal formation on the Red River covers 12,000 square miles, with seams three feet thick. Bituminous and lignite coals are also mined in the Neuces district along the Rio Grande. The area is larger than in Pennsylvania. Extensive deposits of iron exist in eastern Texas, covering 1,000 square miles, many veins being ten feet thick. Paying wells of pe- troleum are at Nacogdoches and there are surface indications of it in other counties. There is a bed of rock salt 140 feet thick underlying Victoria. There are several bat caves producing the famous bat guano, every bit of the product being placed far in advance of mining. Gold, copper, gypsum, asphaltum, marls and mica are found in paying quantities. The granite of Texas excels that of New Hamp- shire, in the verdict of capable judges. The traveler entering Texas via the Southern Pacific at Orange finds himself in the center of the great timber district. Here and at Beaumont — the former upon the Sabine the latter upon the Neches River twenty-one miles further west — are the great mill centers where THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 9 the timber floated from the vast forests to the nortward is turned into the lumber of commerce and goes by way of Sabine Pass, to all parts of the world. Both the rivers mentioned are streams of great depth. Agriculturally speaking the section of the Coast Country for eighty or a hundred miles west of the Sabine is a new country. It is largely prairie land with a good deal of timber upon the streams, oak, pine, ash and hickory. Toward the gulf the land runs into salt marshes, which afford superb winter pasture and cattle fatten upon them as though stall fed. The soil is of two kinds, the sandy loams of the ridges and the dark, heavier and more fertile soil of the lower lands. As one goes westward the prairie vistas open more and more. The country is well watered, for beside the more important rivers like the Sabine, Neches, Trinity, and San Jacinto there are innumerable creeks and bayous. Thus in the thirty two miles between the T rinity River and the city of Houston one crosses Cedar Bayou seven miles west of the Trinity, the San Jacinto River eight miles further on; Carpenter Bayou, four miles west ; Green’s Bayou, four miles from that, and Hunter’s Bayou, three miles further, and then Buffalo Bayou as one enters the city. It is so all through the coast country, for south of Houston we find the Brazos, the Colorado, Lavaca, Guad- aloupe and San Antonio Rivers, with the Sabine and the Neches the greatest in the state, for all the important rivers flow southeastwardly to a union with the gulf at about equal distances apart, while their innumerable feeders and affluents ramify in every direction and afford unexcelled drainage and abundant and ever-present water. South from Houston the Coast Country is a perpetual delight to the traveler. On the Brazos bottom there are a million acres adapted to the cultivation of sugar cane in all its perfection, and at Sugarland a great refinery has been in successful operation for years transforming the staple crop into the marketable product and bringing wealth to its owners and to those who raise the cane and sell it at the mill. A few miles beyond the Brazos, and past its fields of waving cane, and the tourist enters a billowy prairie country, covered with the most nu- tritious grasses, which continues to Beeville and beyond. It is a land heretofore given up largely to stock and to the growing of cotton, corn and sorghum. The surface is for the most part gently undulating. Along the streams and in well distributed clumps that dot the wide expanse of landscape there is abundance of timber, oak, elm, ash, pecan and many other varieties, enough to supply all the ordinary needs of the country. As one nears the coast line the timber ordinarily grows less abundant, and the wide, high prairie sweeps to the very water’s edge without any intervening strip of marsh. The soil in the valleys, along the river, is a deep black, sandy loam, and probably no one now IO THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. living will be able to test the limit of its fertility. In some of the earlier settled localities, as for example, along the Brazos valley, twenty and even thirty crops of corn, cotton and cane in as many successive seasons have been produced without the use of any fertil- izer upon land that shows no signs of any dimunition in productiveness or adaptability to any crop the tiller may elect. The soil of the prairies consists of light grey, dark brown and black, sandy loam, and a kind technically known as “ black waxy ” and “ hog wallow.” The three kinds of loam are friable soils easily tilled and very easily subjugated. The prairie soil of Texas rots much more readily than the stiffer sod of Illinois or Kansas prairie land, and less power is re- quired for deep tillage. ‘‘Black waxy” or “hog wallow” land is very rich, but power is required to break it up and subsoil it and put it in condition for easy tillage. Although much of the land is planted in crops and fruit trees, as soon as it is broken and lightly subsoiled the best practice is to turn the sod, then after sixty or ninety days plow deep and leave the soil to cure by atmospheric action, then plant. The subsoil is almost universally retentive, furnishing the best basis for the methods employed in intense farming. The average rainfall all over the Coast Country is about 46 in- ches, and this is so well distributed that it serves all the purposes of agriculture. No total crop failure has ever been known. Water for drinking purposes is found everywhere under the clay subsoil in a strata of quicksand varying in depth from fifteen to thirty feet admir- able for stock purposes. At from 75 to 125 feetthe second water vein is found throughout the Victoria region, and this water is perfectly pure and healthful. Artesian wells, the water from which rises to an elevation above the surface of from ten to thirty feet, are sunk to a depth varying from 250 to 500 feet according to locality. A bored well of four-inch diameter costs one dollar per foot complete. The cost of a three-inch artesian well of average depth is from $250 to $400. Throughout all the Coast Country there are prosperous cities and towns. The chief commercial centers of the state, Houston, and Galveston, are in the very center of this favored region. The former is the great railway center, the second largest cotton mar- ket in the world ; the latter the shipping port of the southwest, where the flags of all nations fly at the mastheads of the ships that daily come and go. The almost 60,000 people who at present comprise the populations of these two cities form a consuming home market for a large amount of farm, garden and dairy produce, while the railways that radiate from Houston to all parts of the country give ready access to the great distributing centers at Kansas City, St. Louis, Chicago, New Orleans, New York, Baltimore and other points. Already great THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. II quantities of vegetables and fruits, as well as game, fish and oysters are shipped from the coast points to these cities. The Coast Country is to be the real truck patch of the nation, for it puts its products of garden and orchard into the market before any other section of the continent and at seasons when the very pinnacle of high prices rewards the producer. And as its fruits and vegetables go all over the union, so does its game, for it is a veritable sportsman’s paradise where deer, quail, prairie chickens, wild turkeys, etc., have their home in wonder- ful abundance ; where the bays and inlets of the coast are resorted to by all the waterfowl of the north and vast flocks of every variety of duck, as well as geese and brant are an easy prey. Its fish and oys- ter industries are enormous and inexhaustible, and terrapin farming has been added to the apparently unlimited list of its resources. With respect to the climate of this region a misapprehenion exists which we desire to correct. The popular idea of our northern friends is that because the Coast Country lies south of the 30th parallel of latitude it must be extremely and oppressively warm in summer. This is an error. The thermometer has never been known to record as high a temperature in the Coast Country as it does every summer in Illinois, Iowa or Kansas. The data compiled for the year 1894 at the United States Department of Agriculture Weather Bureau Stations at Galveston and Houston showed the following results : GALVESTON Jan. Feb. March April ’Hay June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Year. _• t Average 58.0 53 6 63.2 71.8 77.0 78.6 81.3 80.2 80. 74.4 63.8 58.8 70. Average « < Maximum 72. 75- 76. 80. 88. 87. 07- 92. 88. 87. 79- 77- 97- Highest. l Minimum- 24. 28. 38. 58. 62. 64. 69. 70. 68. 49. 41. 21. 21. Lowest. Rainfall 2.41 2.69 1.96 1.42 I. 9.89 6.32 9.49 2.64 0.51 1.59 0.72 40.64 total. Snow OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO HOUSTON. Jan. Feb March April May Juni July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Year. ^ ( Average • 54.1 50.6 62.4 71.5 75.2 77.8 80.3 78.8 76.4 74-5 59- 54-6 67.9 Average 5 < Maximum 79- 79- 85. 92. 95. 97- 104. 97- 94- 90. 80. 76. 104 Highest. ( Minimum 18. 23. 32. 48. 48. 57- 65. 65. 56. 36. 34- ‘5- 15- Lowest. Rainfall 3-59 4 - 1 7 5.01 2.31 2.31 5-45 2.69 5-75 3.25 0.69 0.84 1.05 36.25 Total. Snow OO OO OO OO OO CO OO OO OO OO OO OO OO 12 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. The Galveston weather station also issued the following table which shows the distribution of the rainfall, the variations of temper- ature and the comparatively few cloudy days: Months. Rainfall pre- cipitation in inches. Temperature. No. Days no sun- shine. Highest. Lowest. January 2.86 74 35 4 February 1.92 75 34 3 March 4.96 76 30 9 April 5.14 81 56 8 May 5.38 85 63 2 June 7.42 90 65 2 July 1.82 92 71 2 August 5.09 90 70 I September 4-79 87 56 I October 4.38 89 54 2 November 2.37 79 49 5 December 2.23 75 47 4 Total 48.36 What these tables show as to the average annual temperature at Houston and Galveston applies pretty much to all the Coast Country. A record kept for thirty years at Victoria by Dr. Cook, and verified by the U. S. reports, show the annual mean temperature to be 70 to 75; in July 80 to 85; in January 55 to 65; maximum 95 to 100; minimum 20 to 30 above zero. Annual rain fall 35 to 40 inches, the same as in Missouri, Iowa, Michigan and Wisconsin, and for spring and summer is 20 to 25 inches, the same as in above states, together with Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, New York and Pennsylvania. A. W. McLain, late of the United States Department of Agriculture and ex- Director of the Minnesota State Agriculture Experiment Station, made a careful study of the Coast Country and says of the matter of tem- perature and rainfall : Average temperature in the Texas coast dis- trict, as shown by the signal service records, taken at an elevation of forty feet above sea level, for the last fifteen years, has been for the spring months 70. 5 degrees Fahrenheit ; for the summer months 82.2 ; for the fall months 69.8 and for the winter months 55.7 degrees. The annual rainfall of the whole Texas coast district within the rain belt is from 43 to 65 inches, well distributed throughout the spring and summer ; besides the heavy dews, a characteristic feature of the region, furnish a source of daily refreshment for all for ms of plant life. There is commonly but little rainfall during the months of October, November, December and January, but within the rain belt there is seldom a lack of sufficient precipitation at the proper season for the growth of all field, garden and fruit crops. To make a successful crop of any kind depends entirely upon the THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 13 frequent rains. The section under review is blessed with that much- needed necessity to the soil producer. According to the census report of the United States, the average spring rainfall is 15^ inches, while 10 inches is all that is necessary to insure a crop on these lands. Concerning healthfulness, the Texas Commissioner of Agricul- ture says (see 5th An. Report, p. 483 ) : “ Away from low places sub- ject to periodical overflows, there is absolutely no cause for sickness, and there is no reason why the state should not become a health resort as well as a refuge for people seeking to escape the rigors of winter in more northern latitudes. Southwest Texas — the Coast Country — has long been recognized by some of the leading physicians of the Blooded Stock in the Coast Country United States as possessing a climate the equal if not the superior of any in the world for persons with a tendency to or suffering from pul- monary affections.” Doubtless the experience common to the rapid settlement of a new country will be realized to some extent in the Coast Country, but many of those who have lived there for years spoke confidently concerning the general healthfulness of this region, daily visited by the salt sea air. The trade winds blow daily from the gulf, reaching a distance of from seventy-five to one hundred miles inland. Concerning the trade winds, the Commissioner of Agricul- ture says: “ They dispense life to vegetation and health to the in- habitants wherever they reach ; the long summers characteristic of 14 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- this latitude are by them rendered not only endurable but enjoyable. “ So marked is the influence of the gulf winds on the climate of the state that the average temperature along the gulf coast and for many miles inland is much lower during the summer months than it is in the higher latitudes of the north. The same influence neutralizes the cold of winter and makes the southern part of the state the mildest and most delightful of any state in the Union.” At all points eastward on the gulf and at all points above this latitude northward along the entire Atlantic coast to New York the thermometer indicates a lower temperature in winter and a higher temperature in summer than at Galveston and along the Texas Coast Country. In other words, it is hotter in summer and colder in winter at any point on the gulf or the Atlantic coast above this latitude than in the Coast Country of Texas. The “ norther,” an important feature of Texas climate, is nothing more than what is called elsewhere a cold north wind. The wind usually attains its greatest velocity in twenty- four hours, then gradually ceases, veering again to the south. The winter is a succession of pleasant days with the temperature ranging from 40 to 60 degrees, falling three or four times each winter to 32 and 33 degrees, and in seasons far apart as low as 20, 25 and 29 degrees, but these seasons of low temperature are of short duration and rare occurrence and seldom cause injury. In summer the tempera- ture ranges from 84 to 88 degrees for weeks and months ; the highest temperature reached in Galveston in three succeeding summers was 91, 93 and 96 degrees. Injury from sunstroke is almost unknown. July is the warmest month. Killing frosts do not usually occur at Houston or Galveston until after December 1st. and the unwelcome visitation is frequently delayed until January. Four years in twenty there was no frost whatever in Galveston, and in five different years there was but a single frost. The last hard frost appears any time between January 5 and February 1. In summer the weather is without noticeable variation. This evenness of temperature is what makes it possible for the farmer to work out of doors nearly every day in the year in comfort. The genial southern trade wind, blowing over a thousand miles of salt water, brings both warmth and coolness, and contributes to maintain a simi- larity of seasons. This wind is always in motion, but rarely with enough violence to stir the dust. No matter how fervent may be the direct rays of the sun a step into shade brings pleasant relief. The nights are uniformly agreeable. The climate is comparable to that of Italy and Southern California- Contrary to accepted tradition, the inhabitants ot the gulf coast do not eat quinine with every meal, nor are their faces invariably sallow. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 15 Malaria is a fable and a dream, except when invited by carelessness or ignorance. Though this is a flat country (like Illinois, Indiana and Michigan), it has only few tracts of swampy land of small extent. Where forests occur, along the bayous, they are devoid of under- growth, a sure sign that nothing is present productive of ague. The surplus rainfall perfectly drains into the gulf. Chills and fever only appear sporadically along the overflowed and undrained river bottoms. On the high open prairies malaria is an unknown visitor. Colds and catarrh cause more suffering and bring about more graveyard additions in the New England states alone than the com- bined diseases of the gulf coast. No epidemic diseases have visited this section for a quarter of a century. Periodical fevers are almost entirely absent, and the average annual death rate in Galveston does not exceed 15 per 1,000 inhabitants. GARDEN AND ORCHARD. When we turn to a consideration of the agricultural possibilities of the coast region of Texas which has already been defined, its capa- bilities are so large, the possibilities for profitable industry are so groat that it will be a difficult task to set them forth so modestly as to make them seem credible to the northern farmer unaccustomed to and unfamiliar with this soil and climate. And in contrasting this favored region with the home of the farmer in the northwest we are reminded of the truthful picture which S. P. Panton, an experienced and studious agricultural observer, drew in a recent magazine article. Speaking of the northwestern emigration he said : “ A few years of great crops and good prices in the blizzard belt of Minnesota and Da- kota were followed by several seasons of early frosts that caught the wheat in the milk ; other years the rains set in at harvest time and poured so continuously that the wheat couldn’t be threshed, and sprouted in the shock. The settlers were housed up by blizzards all winter in their little box cabins ; their children were mowed down by the scourge of diptheria ; their lives were a dead, colorless monotony, varied by salt bacon three times a day when they had it, and the tree- less, blizzard-swept prairie proved the possession of land there to be anything but an unmixed blessing. When there were good crops the elevator charges and the freight charges for the long haul to tidewater left but little compensation for the hardships, the arduous toil and the generally depressed lives of the settlers in the blizzard belt. There was but one crop, wheat, therefore but one pay-day in the year and that uncertain. The climatic eccentricities kept the crop in constant danger and the farmer in constant anxiety ; and when bad seasons succeeded each other, the farm, the crops in the ground and even the implements were loaded with mortgages at such rates of interest that from that time forth the farmer was a slave to his creditors, and the sooner he was sold out the better for him.” As against the vicissitudes and losses of such a life as Mr. Panton describes, and which we all know to be a truthful picture, the Coast Country of Texas is a veritable paradise and the range of its products is bewildering. All the products of the temperate zone with the ex- ception of wheat flourish here, together with all the sub-tropic and many of the tropical growths. The truck farmer can plant, mature and ship vegetables at any time of the year. The horticulturist has every fruit at his command and finds that, with the possible excep- tion of certain varieties of cherries and apples, he can grow what suits his fancy. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 17 And yet land in this section can still be bought at from $5 to $15 per acre. Ten or twelve dollars would probably be a fair range of values for desirable lands such as the home seeker from the north or east would naturally choose. That means lands contiguous to ship- ping facilities, to good markets, to schools and to every environment of civilization, With half the labor required to make farms in the north- west worth $40 per acre these lands in the Coast Country can be made worth $500 per acre. It is not a dream or a visionary specula- tion. It has been done and is being done in numberless instances, and these pages will point to the instances and give you the opportunity of verifying the statement. A thousand dollars brought here by any practical northern farmer who is willing to work will be equivalent at the beginning to $5,000 put into a farm at the north; will make him absolutely certain of maintaining himself independently from the beginning, and in five years give him the enjoyment of an income rarely equalled on any 320 acre farm in the north. The writer believes that the great future of the Coast Country lies in the direction of orcharding and truck-farming. Intense farming yields enormous returns here where two and three crops are raised on the same ground, and instead of skimping and saving to get enough money to come to Texas and buy a 200 acre farm the home seeker should remember that ten or twenty acres will yield him immense re- turns if properly cultivated. In France five acres is a large farm, and in California ten acres suffices for any family. Even in frigid Massa- chusetts a dozen acres is ample to secure a good income. In Holland and Belgium families live in comfort on two and three acres. What, then, are the possibilities here ? The winter climate of the Coast Country favors the growth of the crisp and succulent vegetables grown at the north in summer, and the rest of the year can be devoted to products not grown north at any time. The sub-tropical products include the orange, lemon, lime, po- melo, shaddock, pomegranate, fig, Japanese persimmon, and the grapes of the Mediterranean, the ginger, camphor and cinnamon trees, the cassava, from which tapioca is made, the great variety of valuable fibres; the canaigre, for tanning fine leather, for which there is a strong demand throughout the civilized world, and innumerable other plants of value. Almost any one of these products intelligently handled will pay several times the profit per acre of the best crops in the north- west. This is, so far as known, the only part of the republic east of California where the finest European grapes attain the greatest per- fection. As they ripen here from four to six weeks earlier than in California the viticulturists of this coast have the run of the markets when there is no competition, and their comparative proximity to the i8 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS body of consumers gives them great and permanent advantages over the Californians. These grapes are pruned down to a mere stump and the trailers or vines permitted to run out over the ground as in California vineyards, without the viticulturist being put to the ex- pense of supports, wires or stakes of any kind. They are ready for market by the first of June, and often sell at that time at twenty-five cents per pound. The yield is from 40 to 125 pounds to the vine. The experience of the practical viticulturists in the Coast Country pro- THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 19 nounces in favor of certain varieties — Chasselas, Muscat or Muscatelii, Chasselas Rose de Peru, Emperor, Black Morocco or Tokay (both flame and white), Malaga or Chasselas Napoleon, Black Spanish, Le- noir or Black Burgundy, Goethe, Rogers No. 1, Salem, Rogers No. 53, Niagara, Black -July, Concord, Roulander, Delaware, Missouri, Rissling and Herbemont. If well fertilized most varieties come into bearing the second year, and when three years old may be counted on for a yield of ten to fif- teen pounds of luscious grapes to the vine and much more as they in- crease in age. The strawberry season opens early and about thirty days in ad- vance of all competition. The sandy lands of southeast Texas are well adapted to this berry, and the annual net returns for some years have been $1,000 to every three acres of berries. The blackberry grows over a much larger territory and by many have been found to be more profitable than the strawberry. Strawberry picking and ship- ping begins about the middle or latter part of January and not later than February 15th in any part of the Coast Country, and the early berries often bring $ 1 per quart in the northern markets. The ship- ping season lasts about three months. One man reported that he had gathered 1,000 quarts of ripe berries from one acre in one day. Another, who said he was only an amateur in gardening, reported that he made $500 per acre profit on strawberries last season. Another, living two miles from Alvin, reported that he fertilized one acre of ground with stable manure and. without any assistance what- ever, he raised and marketed from that one acre, in 1893, a cro P of strawberries from which he realized the sum of $1,326. On the same acre of land, in 1892, he raised a crop of celery which he sold for $1,000, doing all the labor himself. The celery grown here is ready for market about the time the northern crop is exhausted. The following estimates taken from a reliable source is considered conservative. The cost of production in the estimate is sufficiently high to cover every item of expense, while the estimated profits are much less than the actual average, and is for an acre of raw prairie land : One acre of land, say $8.00 Breaking first time 3.00 Harrowing and rebreaking .-... 2.50 13,000 strawberry plants. 26.00 Planting 7.00 Cultivating twice and fertilizer 7.00 Total $53 50 20 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- This one acre of strawberries, set out in June, July, or August, will, if properly cared for, net the owner the following spring $300 to $400. The second year it will net from $600 to $1,000. The average net profit per acre from tomatoes, according to the reports given by experienced farmers, is from $300 to $400 ; onions, $250 to $400; strawberries, $350 to $500; peas, $100 to $300; snapbeans, $100; sweet potatoes, $150; Irish potatoes. $150; rad- dishes, $150; spring turnips, $100; cauliflower, $400; cabbage, $300; peaches, $150; pears in full bearing, from $400 to $500. When Mr. H. M. Stringfellow concluded to plant a pear orchard in Galveston County and make the LeConte pear his principal one, his friends told him of those who had tried that pear and failed, and to beware of danger and great loss. Having nothing to guide him in the way of other men’s success and knowing what his friends told him was so, he concluded as a last resort to plantthe pear orchard and rely on new methods for results. Last year he marketed 9,127 bushels of pears off of thirteen acres, and paid out nearly $100 per acre to his neighbors as wages for help and harvesting, and the crop netted him $5,245. His new method was merely to fertilize his land heavily, using as much as a ton per acre, and his results are a fortune to himself and his descendants. State Commissioner of Agriculture J. E. Hol- lingsworth had in his collection one bushel of these pears and they averaged 33 ounces each in weight and would sell on account of excel- lence in any market. An orchard of the LeConte and Keifer pear trees upwards of eight years of age, properly attended to, will yield a certain annual revenue of $700 per acre above all expense of taking care of the trees and cost of marketing the fruit. The Le Conte and Keifer pears are supposed to be American seedlings from the ancestral Asiatic pear, which in its own home is an immense forest tree, often attaining to the age of 300 years. The original Le Conte tree is still standing in Georgia, a magnificent specimen, hardy, beautiful and prolific. These wonderful new pears are as hardy as forest trees, of luxuriant foliage, grow to a great size, and are free from blight and yield every year an enormous crop of fruit that sells in eastern and northern markets at prices that compete with the older and better known varieties. As a fruit for canning, drying or preserving they are acknowledged as un- equalled. When picked somewhat green and ripened in cellars, many connoisseurs pronounce them equal to the famous Bartlett. Never have they failed to bud abundantly, and on the gulf coast of Texas there has never been a single failure of the Le Conte, Keifer and Carber pear crop, while in quality the fruits grown in more north- ern climes suffer in comparison. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 21 The Le Conte of the Coast Country is the earliest pear grown anywhere in the United States. It can be placed upon the market during the latter part of June, which is fully three weeks earlier than fruit can be plucked in California. The Le Conte is a very delicious pear ; while it does not rank as high as some varieties or command the highest prices, it is a pear that supplies the market patronized by the great middle class of people. It is a very rapid grower and yields abundantly. Most of these pears are shipped in car load lots to Chi- cago, where they sell at from $1.25 to $2 per bushel. These pears are very juicy, sweet, and of very fine grain. In fact the whole Coast Country is the home of the pear, and a great deal of attention is now being given to the subject and orchards are now being set out in all parts of it. The rapidity with which vines and trees mature is a perpetual source of amazement to the new comer. A single branch of a grape vine made a growth of 46 feet in a year and produced a large crop. A two-year-old peach tree, planted from the seed, measured five inches in diameter at one foot from the ground and had a fine spread of limb and a very symmetrical growth. Figs grow in the greatest profusion. Fruit growers who are be- ginning to cultivate it claim that it is the most profitable fruit that can be raised in this locality. Two hundred fig trees can be planted to the acre, which will begin to bear in two years, and be in full bearing in five years, and will then yield annually 400 pounds of fruit each, a net profit when dried and preserved of $30 a tree. The largest or- chard of fig trees which I know of in the state is near Port Lavaca, directly on the gulf coast, where there are 1,300 trees. At Port La- vaca 1 also saw olive trees growing within a hundred yards of the beach which had withstood the cold weather of last winter without ap- parent injury. The fig finds here a soil and climate as well adapted to it as any part of California, and it is only a question of a short time when the profits realized will induce many people to engage in its cul- ture and when its preservation and shipment will become an import- ant industry. Texas is the home of the plum. It grows wild in the woods in luxuriant profusion. No less than three kinds of wild plums grow in southern Texas, and all of fine quality and marketable. The culti- vated varieties have paid as high as $800 per acre. The cauliflower will, in the near future, be raised in large quanti- ties for shipment in car lots. A salt atmosphere seems to be essential to the perfect development of this vegetable, and as the soil here is admirably adapted to it, every condition is favorable to its growth. It is strictly a fall vegetable, and when sown early in July and set out 22 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS in August in rich soil the bulk of the crop can be marketed before January. Cabbages, when planted at the right time, yield large returns. There is scarcely a limit to the quantities that can be disposed of in the northwest, if grown in sufficient numbers to warrant car load ship- ments. They are planted in September. The tomato is another crop that will head the list for profit. It is safely demonstrated that the tomato will produce abundantly in the Coast Country . It begins to ripen May 20, and at once finds ready sale at high prices all over Texas. The small white navy bean make two crops a year on the same land and yields very abundantly. The Creole and White Queen onions are as successfully grown here as around New Orleans. They mature in April, just when north- ern onions are sprouting, and the demand is unlimited. Two hundred dollars an acre net is considered an average profit, but much larger sums have been made when greater care and cultivation has been given to the crop. Irish potatoes do well everywhere ; the early planting rarely brings under a dollar a bushel. They are a sure and profitable crop. The early crop is ready to be dug from the 20th of April to the 10th of May. One grower near Wharton, in 1894, by shipping in car load lots to Chicago and St. Louis markets, netted $60 per acre clear of all expenses, including cultivation, shipping and commissions, and im- mediately planted the same ground in cotton and picked three- fourths of a bale to the acre last fall. This same farmer, in 1895, shipped some fifteen cars to Chicago with even better results, and at once planted cotton on the same land. Beans, peas, cucumbers, squash, beets and cantaloupes are grown in quantities, reach an early stage of perfection and find a ready market. Peanuts almost grow wild and are a profitable crop when culti- vated. The nut flourishes' best on sandy soil and requires lime. It is planted in rows, about like* beans, only one nut in a place, and is cul- tivated thoroughly to keep down the grass and weeds until the vines nearly cover the ground. The established weight of the peanut is 22 pounds to the bushel, and the yield ranges all the way from 25 to 100 bushels per acre. The price ranges from two and one-half to six cents per pound, and the crop as a rule, is expected to pay better than the corn or potato crop. Before planting, the nuts must be shelled by hand and great care taken not to injure the inner skin. They are planted by hand, cultivated largely by hand, ploughed out when ripe, THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 23 and the vines are carefully lifted with most of the nuts adhering to them, and stacked up in small piles, just as beans are harvested in many places. Here they stand for several weeks until the nuts and the vines are both cured. Then the nuts are picked off and sacked for transportation to market. The melon crop is a very important and profitable one. One county realized from 230 acres last year the handsome sum of $32,966. This county was equally successful with “garden truck,” as it reports 399 acres valued at $130,660. Experiments with California apricots and cherries in the vicinity of Victoria have proven most successful. Of sweet potatoes there is literally no end. They grow here as they grow nowhere else, and numberless instances could be cited in proof of the fact. Two crops a year are grown on the same ground. B. C. Moffett, of Galveston County, raises 400 bushels to the acre and finds a ready sale for them at $1 per bushel. Single specimens weigh- ing over nine pounds were shown the writer. J. Brogden, living near Bryan, in Brazos County, demonstrated that cotton was not the most profitable crop by planting six acres in sweet potatoes last year. He sold 200 bushels at fifty cents a bushel to the local trade, and shipped 400 bushels to Waco, Texas, at forty-five cents per bushel, and had at home 200 bushels more. The money value of the crop thus reaches at least $380, or nearly $65 per acre. The sweet potato is one of our most important vegetables, according to the statistics of the fifth annual report of the Agricultural Bureau of Texas. The value of the potato crop for that year was $1,503,764. Total number of acres planted was 20,928, The value per acre was $50.25. The cost of growing crops of corn, wheat, cotton and potatoes is very nearly the same. The tops of sweet potatoes make a fine feed for cattle, especially milch cows. The vineless potato tops are particularly valuable in that they remain green during several drouths, when it is difficult to get green grass with which to feed. They may be cut with a mowing machine and put up like fodder. They should be mixed with cotton seed or cotton seed meal. In the vicinity of Victoria 1 saw olive trees which had gone through the phenomenal freeze of February, 1895, and appeared thrifty and vigorous. Peaches of varieties adapted to local conditions of soil and expos- ure have proven very profitable. At the eastern limit of the Coast Country the success which has attended the efforts of W. A. Ward, of Jefferson County, a practical fruit farmer who moved to that county from Dakota, in the growth of peaches, has probably done more to bring the people to a realization of the possibilities of the soil 24 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. than anything else. It has demonstrated that almost any kind of ag- ricultural products would mature in the eastern Coast Country just as it does all through it, and for such fruits as strawberries, grapes, plums, etc., the soil and climate were equal in every respect to that of California, but the peach was shelved and tabooed as one of the im- possibilities in Jefferson and Orange counties. In fact when Mr Ward was setting out his orchard many weil-meaning friends warned him that he was wasting time and money. They assured him that something more than forty years ago an attempt was made to grow peaches in Jefferson County and it proved a dismal failure. Mr. Ward persisted, however, and to-day he has one of the healthiest and prettiest orchards in the state and is hauling to Beaumont the finest flavored peach that has ever been put on the market. This is THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 25 the verdict of the people of Beaumont who have seen the orchard and eaten of the fruit. Near Sour Lake there is a peach orchard of one and two year old trees from which fruit in merchantable quantities was actually sent to market this year. The bee industry is one which promises much in the coast region. At a late California convention of beekeepers, Mr. Francis W. Black- ford, in an essay on bee keeping, among other facts said that the an- nual value of honey in the United States is close upon $100,000,000 and the number of colonies of bees kept by apiarists equaled about one-fifth of the number of sheep in the United States. This would place the number of colonies of bees at 9,000,000, which, at an average value of only $3 a colony, would represent an investment of $20,000,000 in bees alone. Mrs. Jennie Atchley, of Beeville, who is one of the most success- ful apiarists in the country, says : “Since 1 have located my queen rearing establishment and bee keeping plant in Bee County, 1 have spared neither time nor pains to fully explore this as a bee country. I find wild bees in great profusion here as well as tame bees, and find that the bees kept here are the native stock with only a touch of the Italian blend occasionally, and they are rich in stores and prosper without attention. 1 am fully sat- isfied that this country will never experience a failure of a honey crop as does California and other parts of the Pacific coast, because our honey here is gathered from trees and shrubs that are not affected by dry weather like the sages and honey plants of California. 1 find that the honey here will compare favorably with the clearer honey of the north, and is pronounced by A. 1 . Root, a noted bee man of Medina, Ohio, as being as fine honey as he ever saw. The climate here is just right for the propagation of the honey bee the year round, and to make a long matter short will say that I consider this the finest bee country in the United States.” The possibilities of successful artificial use of water in truck farm- ing, in the exceptional instances where it is needed, has been amply demonstrated by Messrs. Kohler and Heldenfels on their great truck farm near Beeville, at the very southwestern limit of the section of the Coast Country we have been describing. Their “farm ” com- prises 20,000 acres, 8,000 in cultivation. Two years ago a large tank was constructed on the farm capable of holding 700,000 gallons of water. This tank is about 100 feet in circumference and 16 feet deep. The earth was excavated to a depth of six feet and a ten-foot embank- ment thrown up. The earth was then packed perfectly solid and the inside cemented. The tank is round and very much resembles an 26 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. immense washbowl. A well was bored to a depth of 107 feet at a dis- tance of 30 feet from the tank. A windmill and pump were placed in position, and at every stroke of the piston a gallon of water is dis- charged into the tank. A similar well was bored a short distance fur- ther from the tank, and a windmill and pump placed thereon with a like capacity. The water sparkles and bubbles as it pours into the big basin, and is of a pure blue-white color, very much resembling the water of Niagara River as it speeds over the cataract at the falls. It is of good drinking quality, pure and clear. The catch-basin or water tank is on the highest point of land, and when water is needed to irrigate all that is necessary is to open the floodgates and let it flow over the ground. The finest crop, largest yield and best creole onions ever seen in Texas were grown in the field near the tank. The tank, well cemented and capable of storing nearly three-quarters of a million gallons of water, cost between 5500 and $600. The two windmills and pumps placed in position cost, say, $150 each. Here we have an outlay of between $800 and 3900. But look at the results. The land has produced over ten tons of onions to the acre, which, at the prevailing price of $40 per ton on board the car, is $400. The crop gathered from two acres of onion seed pays for all the improvements, and the tank has a capacity to irrigate twenty acres. Under the direction of Mr. Maxwell, who is an experienced gar- dener, thousands of grape cuttings of the best varieties have been set out. Pear, peach, plum, persimmon and orange trees by the thousand have been planted, and a young nursery of choice fruit trees will soon be in a flourishing condition on the farm. In summing up this whole subject no more exhaustive or author- itative summary could be presented than the letter which that intel- ligent and experienced gentleman G. A. Forsgard, of Houston, Secre- tary to the District Alliance Exchange of Southern Texas, prepared as the result of almost half a century of study and practical experi- ment in the Coast Country, and which is recognized as authoritative. It has the endorsement of the best known truck farmers of the region. In this open letter Mr. Forsgard says : Gentlemen : — In reply to your request for some information as to the climate and products of this portion of Texas, especially in reference to truck farming, 1 will give such facts as a forty-six years residence here have brought within my experience and observation. A truck farm may and should have something growing on it every month in the year. And this is as much as need be said about the climate. In order to have this the sowing should be done as follows : November. To start now, cabbage, spinach, peas, onions, etc., THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- 2 7 and red oats, clover, alfalfa, rye, barley, lettuce, turnips and radishes. December. Peas, carrots, cabbage, raddishes and parsley. Lat- ter part of the month potatoes may do. January. Turnips, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, potatoes, and transplant onions, shallots and cabbage. February. Beets, mustard’, leek, peas, beans, main crop of pota- toes, early corn. March. Beans, squash, cucumbers, melons, okra. Potatoes may still be sown, and corn, sorghum and millet. April. All tender vegetables may now be sown, and plants from hot beds, tomatoes and peppers set out ; also sweet potatoes, mil- let, corn, beans and okra. May. During this month very few vegetables can be sown, but where potatoes, onions and other crops have been taken off, corn, mellons, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, etc., maybe planted ; also some varieties of cabbage, late Italian cauliflower, sweet potatoes, cow peas, sorghum and black eyed peas. June. If the weather is favorable plant and sow same as in May, but the most of the time will be demanded by the growing crop. July. Bush and pole beans, corn, sweet potatoes, millet, broom corn, cow peas, etc., may still be planted, and seeds of cabbage, cauli- flower, etc., should be sown in cold frames; for the fall garden sow cow peas. August. Carrots, celery, potatoes, shallots, millet and peas. September. Early peas, beans, parsnips, salsify, onions, kale, and spinach. Set out cabbage, etc. October. Onions, marrowfat peas, cow peas, salsify, oats, bar- ley and rye may be sown. The list might be enlarged but enough has been said to give the intelligent truck farmer a hint as to what class of vegetables or prod- ucts are suitable in this southeast Texas Coast Country for each season or every month in the year, and from which a selection can be made for an intelligent and practical succession or rotation cf crops. Strawberry plants should be set out this month or as soon after as land is in condition, but any time from September to April will do. Trees of all kinds should be transplanted as soon after growth has stopped as possible, but may be done successfully as late as Feb- ruary. Nearly all kinds of clover and grass do best if sown in the fall months. It is of course understood that hot beds, cold frames and like pro- tection and helps are. desirable and necessary for the forwarding of crops. 28 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS Every farmer knows the time that each product named will re- quire to mature, but 1 will say from two to six months, or an average of three months. From this you will see that after making due al- lowance for variations of seasons and time for preparing the ground, still three crops can be taken off or raised on the same ground every twelve months. 1 do not mean to say that three good crops will be raised on the same ground every year, but I do say it may and can. No such thing as fail. Do not think it necessary to tell a farmer how to farm. It goes without saying that in order to produce abundant and con- tinuous crops liberal manuring is necessary on any land. None know this better than our successful truck farmers near New Orleans, where they have the richest soil on earth ; but expensive commercial fertilizers are not necessarily the best. In my opinion the barnyard manure is equal if not better for all purposes, and the plowing under of clover, cow peas and other green crops, probably the best and cheapest of all, especially here where they grow so luxuriantly at any season of the year. Where forage for cattle and hogs can be so easily produced, and where fat beef, pork and butter bring so good returns, the question of barnyard manure is easily solved on a truck farm. In the list of vegetables named I omitted some that do not prop- erly belong to an ordinary farm but should still have a place in every farm garden, for in my opinion farming includes the raising of every- thing that the ground can be made to produce. If not raised for sale it will come in to supply the home table and save the spending of money for some less palatable and less wholesome food. And right here I must mention henberries and dairy fruit as among the most de- sirable products of a farm for home consumption, and any place where chickens, eggs, milk and butter are not constant “companions of the breakfast table” should not be called a farm, especially where the means of support for hens and cows are as easily obtained as in this section 1 must say that I would not consider a farm suitable or desirable as a home for young or old without fruit and flowers, but cheerless as a landscape without sunshine. And here where it can be had with so little care every farm worthy of the name of “ home ” should be sur- rounded by the evidences of refinement and taste, which beget cheer- fulness and health. Such as roses, jessamines, crape-myrtle, olean- ders, figs, scuppernongs, plums, peaches, pomegranates are all at home here, besides cinnamon, arrow root, cardimon, ginger, pineapple, kaki, guava, oranges and many other tropical fruit, flower and foliage plants which, if not profitable, still deserve a . place in every farm yard for their beauty and consequently moral and healthful influence THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 29 In reply to the stereotyped question, “Which will be the most profitable branch of agriculture for any one to follow in this Coast Country, and what is the soil best adapted for?” 1 will say, that which you best understand. You can find land and locations suited to fruit, melons, truck, dairy, or any branch you best understand. If you understand your business you will know when you see the land if it is suited for you or not. If you do not, the fact that some-one else has made a grand success is no evidence that you will, any more than if some one was to say to me: “Ole Bull made money and a world wide fame by playing the violin ; here is a fiddle, go and do like- wise.” Shall I try ? The climate and soil is here, “ all over in spots” through the Gulf Coast Country, and I have lived here since 1848. I know the land and climate as well as any one, having accumulated considerable experience if nothing else. I may and probably will live long enough to see this Gulf Coast Country “ a little Eden ” (except- ing apples), and think all that is required to make it so is a little money, a little energy and intelligence enough to push the nauseating weeds and tenacious cocklebur from the yard and fence corner and re- place them with the fragrant jessamine, brilliant canna, stately ban- ana and the numerous lovely shrubs, vines and foliage plants which only need a chance to grow equally rampant. “ A hint is as good as a word,” but “ a word to the wise is sufficient.” G. A. Forsgard.” CEREALS AND FIELD CROPS. The fertile lands of the Coast Country produce from three-quart- ers to a bale and a half of cotton to the acre. Last fall the writer met and talked with W. T. Taylor, of Wharton He and his brother ’ cultivate 2,000 acres, and on the rich, black soil of their farm they raised eighty bushels of corn to the acre both in ’94 and ’95. In spite of the dry weather of the past season — the first drouth, Mr. Taylor says, that he has known in thirty years in the Coast Coun- try — they raised 600 bales of cotton on 750 acres In Jefferson County as high as thirty-nine bales have been raised on twenty-nine acres, but the more profitable rice crop has driven it out of the field. The entire Coast Country is adapted to cotton growing. The import- ance of cotton in our foreign trade relations can be appreciated from the simple statement that since 1875 our exports of this staple have been valued at $3,800,000,000, while the total exports of wheat and flour combined for the same period have been $2,500,000,000, showing a difference of $1,300,000,000, or over fifty per cent in favor of cot- ton. Moreover, during the same period we have exported about $200,000,000 of manufactured cotton goods, making the full value really $4,000,000,000. Compared with the exports of wheat, flour and corn combined, the value of which, since 1875, has been $3,100,- 000,000, there is a difference in favor of cotton of $900,000,000. Going back to 1820, it is found that the total value of flour and wheat exported for the last seventy-four years is $3,913,000,000, or $100,- 000,000 less than the value of the cotton export during the last eighteen years. Instead of these exports decreasing, it is but natural to suppose that they will gradually increase, and as they increase the demand will grow in proportion. Many of the older states that were once great producers of cotton are raising less of the staple yearly on account of the soil wearing out by continuous use, thus necessitating the opening up of new sections for the cultivation of cotton. At pres- ent no section of the south offers greater inducements to the cotton planter than the gulf coast of Texas. The land is all new and splend- idly adapted to cotton, while the climate is unexcelled. Another great advantage to be derived from raising cotton is the use to which ihe seed can be put -an advantage not known until a few years ago. Aside from the oil that is taken from the seed it is an excellent feed for cattle, and nothing fattens cattle quicker than cotton seed meal and hulls, the hulls acting as a roughness, just as fodder does when fed with corn. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- 31 Cotton and Corn in the Gulf Country. 32 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS Throughout all the coast region there are public gins where the farmer can have the seed removed from the staple and the cotton baled. There are also cotton seed oil mills, as notably at Cuero, which created a staple market for the seed which is a large source of revenue, being ordinarily equal to $8 per bale. With cotton at pre- vailing prices the yield of a bale to the acre is equivalent to $40 or $45 per acre. During the past year a great deal of the long staple Sea Island cotton was grown in the neighborhood of Port Lavaca, the seed being imported direct from South Carolina. The experiments carried on with Sea Island cotton during previous years were so suc- cessful that the acreage was largely increased this year, and two roller gins were putin by enterprising farmers to handle this valuable staple. The coast lands of Carolina and Georgia, on which the Sea Island crop is now produced, are fertilized at an average cost of $5 per acre. The Texas coast has rich virgin soil, and farmers escape this tax and can distance their eastern competitors, and many predict that in the next five years the credit of being the first Sea Island cotton market of the world will be transferred from Charleston, S. C., to Galveston or Houston. Another advantage that the Texas coast farmer has is the cheapness of labor. Mexican cotton pickers can be brought in by the hundreds from counties west. Last fall these peo- ple picked common cotton at wages ranging from twenty-five to fifty cents per hundred pounds It will pay to give seventy-five cents per hundred for picking fine cotton. On the Atlantic coast the phosphate industry has created a demand for colored labor at fair wages, and last fall the planters were compelled to pay from $1 to $ 1.50 per hundred pounds. Sugar cane is one of the most profitable crops on the rich Brazos bottom lands, and it is estimated that there are a million acres capable of cultivation in this crop. In the center of it, at Sugarland, con- venient of access is the great Cunningham sugar mill and refinery. Sugar cane is one of the most profitable as well as one of the most re- liable crops that can be grown anywhere. It yields a profit of from $50 to $70 per acre to the grower, one acre of ground turning off twenty tons of cane where it is well and thoroughly cultivated. To plant an acre of cane requires from four to five tons of seed cane worth, say, $4.00 per ton; including labor of planting, S5.00 per ton. As planting is necessary only every third or fourth year, the expense of planting may be estimated annually at from S6.00 to $8.00 per acre. After planting, the expense of cultivation is very little greater than the same acreage in cotton. The drawback to the extension and popularity of cane growing heretofore has been the large amount of capital required to erect and THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 33 equip the necessary sugar houses and plant for converting the cane into sugar and syrup. Only the wealthy were able to engage in the ■business, but with the inauguration of the “central factory system,’’ so well and successfully operated in Cuba, and now being introduced with equal success in Louisiana, by which the growing of the cane, and the manufacture of sugar are separated, the cultivation of sugar cane in this section is destined to become one of the most popular and profitable branches of farming. Under this system the farmer can grow ten acres or five hundred acres of cane as may suit his ability and contract the same to the factory at so much per ton de- livered. This system also enables many owners of sugar lands to rent them to tenant farmers. Though this industry is only in its infancy in Texas, only about 15,000 acres being planted in cane, yet the Texas sugar crop last year sold for $1,500,000; an average of nearly $100.00 per acre. One man in the Texas coast sold last year $35,000 worth of sugar off his plantation. Mr. J. H. B. House, owner of the “Areola Plantation,’’ near Houston, says: “The average profit on the Areola plantation per acre per annum, in cultivating sugar cane, is $60. The crop is never failing, though some years it is much larger than others.’’ Throughout the greater portion of the Coast Country sorghum is grown for feed, for stock and for syrup. Mr. R. F. Jett, of Tarkington Prairie, Liberty county, stated that from one acre he would make 250 gallons of syrup, for which he found ready sale at 40 cents. His expenses were computed at $25, which deducted, leaves a clear gain of $75 from one acre. He is now preparing to plant eight or ten acres next year. Throughout almost the whole region sorghum is grown, not only as a nutritious feed for stock but for the syrup which it yields. Today sorghum is worth 25 to 30 cents per gallon by the car load, and if the cane was raised for the syrup alone it would be a largely profitable crop. Aside from its value for molasses, the seed is fast becoming an article of trade. It is fast taking the place of millet for food. Many farmers are sowing it for forage for stock, and the results are satis- factory. It is the experience of many farmers and stockmen that cattle can be fed through the entire winter on cane fodder, and come out better in the spring than on any other food, except corn. A seed firm reports that they paid $1.10 per bushel for the first crop ever raised in that vicinity, and have paid as high as $1. 50 for cane seed. Millet is a reliable crop, producing from two to four tons per acre and marketable at $10.00 per ton. 34 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS Sweet Cassava is another of the money making crops which can be successfully grown here. Cassava is a name which should prop- erly apply only to the purified starch derived from the roots of the plant, but it has passed into general use to designate the plant itself. The yield under favorable conditions is astonishing, one plant of one years growth weighed fifty pounds, being at the rate of more than 1,500 bushels to the acre. Eight hundred to one thousand bushels per acre can be confidently counted on. It is very produc- tive; it has a remarkable immunity from drouth, flood and disease; it is easy to harvest, easy of estivation and occupies the ground dur- ing the whole growing season to the exclusion of noxious plants. The pork made from feeding it is solid and delicate as chicken, and the lard is as firm as that of corn-fed hogs. It produces a good flow of rich milk and firm, golden butter. From one acre of cassava enough roots may be obtained to fatten ten hogs or feed three milch cows during the entire year. Soil suitable for corn is appropriate for cassava. It must not, however, be wet land or land subject to overflow, as that will rot the tubers. Frost, if severe, will kill the plant so effectually that but a small proportion will sprout again. By saving the stumps when the roots are dug and planting them they will sprout and grow, though the tops be killed two or three times. There are about 2740 hills per acre. On land that will not grow more thafi five bushels of corn per acre, cassava will average from three to five pounds per hill, or at a very moderate estimate four to five tons per acre. The cassava root contains a, large proportion of starch, twenty- five per cent of the weight of the fresh root. The profit which the farmer may make from growing this - crop and the manufacturer from using it should be based upon a yield of four to five tons per acre. If it be desired to make starch from the plant, we may suppose as a minimum rate of yield, that twenty per cent of the weight of the fresh root may be obtained as merchantable starch of a high grade. On a yield of four tons per acre this would amount to eight-tenths of a ton or 1600 pounds. Compare this with the weight of starch obtained from Indian corn producing forty bushels per acre. The yield of merchantable starch of a high grade may be placed at thirty-five pounds per bushel, which for forty bushels would amount to 1400 pounds. It is thus seen that the rate of yield per acre in the matter of starch from cassava would be fully equal if not superior to that from Indian corn. If the matter of the manufacture of glucose be considered the estimate is even more favorable. Experiments have shown that after the removal of the bark the whole root may be rasped and THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 35 treated directly fur the manufacture uf glucose, either by inversion with diastase or by treating with dilute sulphuric acid. In the latter case not only were the starch and sugar present in the root obtained as glucose, but also a considerable quantity of the digestible fibre. It is not an extravagant statement, therefore, to suppose that fully thirty per cent on the weight of the fresh root could be obtained as commercial glucose. This would give a yield per acre of 1.2 tons, or 2400 pounds. These statements are made, of course, subject to the practical determinations of the manufacture of glucose and starch from this plant. Attempts have already been made in the manufac- ture of starch, but of course the full development of this industry must await the investment of capital and the necessary adjustment of new machinery to new processes. The conclusion reached by scientists and practical experiment- ers with respect to this new plant are as as follows: 1. Cassava can be cultivated with safety and profit in the great- er part of the peninsular of Florida, Southern Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and Texas. 2. It will yield with fair treatment on the sand soils from four to five tons per acre. 3. It will give when properly manufactured, from twenty to twenty-five per cent of the weight of the fresh root in starch of high grade. 4. The starch is naturally in a pure state and no chemicals of any kind are necessary in its manufacture. 5. The starch resembles in its physical properties the starch of Maize and can be used as a substitute therefore in all cases. 6. An excellent article of tapioca can be prepared from the starch of the cassava plant. 7. Glucose can be prepared directly from the starch, or more profitably from the pulp of the peeled root. 8. The plant furnishes an excellent human and cattle food, de- ficient however, in nitrogen. It would make a well balanced ration for cattle when mixed with one-fourth of its weight of cotton seed oil cake. One of the most promising of the new crops for which the soil and climate of the Coast Country is shown to be adapted is canaigre. This is a native plant of the southwestern territories and northern Mexico. It is a species of wild rhubarb and resembles that well- known eastern plant in appearance, though very far different in quality. The element of value in this vegetable is tannic acid, and the demand for it comes from the leather industry of the world. Can- aigre grows wild in portiqns of Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Cali- 36 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS fornia and Old Mexico, and when found in that condition produces a crop of three to eight tons per acre once in two years. But under irrigation and proper cultivation it produces two crops each year with an annual yield of twenty tons per acre, according to a good authority. When it is stated that shipments thus far sold have brought $65 per ton in Liverpool. It is little wonder that some farm- ers and land owners are dreaming of great pecuniary rewards for their foresight in pushing the new crop into the market. It can be said with absolute assurance that the commercial value of canaigre is established beyond all question. It is conceded by all A Coast Country Cotton Gin. experts that the quality of tanic acid extracted from the canaigre root is far superior to that obtained from any other source. Furthermore the supply of hemlock and tanbark oaks has constantly decreased, until of late it has become alarmingly sparse. Canaigre seems t< have come to the front just at the time when it was unmistakably demanded. Perhaps the most convincing endorsement of the com- mercial value of canaigre is the testimony of the distinguished Prof. Eitner, head of the Vienna Research station for the leather trade, who examined it from the standpoint of a practical tanner and said : “1 consider this article especially adapted for tanning uppers, fine saddlery and fancy leathers. It can be used alone or in connection with other materials.” He also recommended it for its quickness THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 37 and thoroughness in tanning, color, beauty, consistency and pliabil- ity. He also states that the price laid down in Vienna — 18 florins per hundred kilos (about $65 per ton), — is quite reasonable. In fact he has everything to say in its favor and nothing against it. A good sandy loam with moderate cultivation is necessary, but equally large crops have been produced on heavy soils where the roots are planted shallow and irrigated. The tubers are planted in rows 30 inches apart and 9 inches apart in the row, and require about one ton of roots per acre, from which it is estimated that the first season a yield of 10 tons of green roots may be obtained, and the second and succeeding seasons 1 5 or even 20 tons. In a wild state the plant makes its growth during the winter and early spring, and by June 1st has seeded and the tops are dead. The tubers lie dormant until the winter rains, when the plants make their appearance once more. A short, quick season of growth seems to be necessary for this plant. In the Coast Country the time for planting is September or Oc- tober and the plant dies in June the harvest being taken in the in- termediate time, so that it does not interfere with the regular crops. If planted late in the spring, leaves will appear and lie down at the usual time, and the root will lie dormant throughout the summer, be- ginning the formation of a new crop at the regular season, with no apparent advantage or disadvantage as compared with roots planted just before growing season. The time of harvesting begins after the plant has made its full growth, and it has been found that the per cent, of tannin increases as the tubers lie dormant in the ground, but the increase is very gradual after May. The preparation of the land for planting and the cultivation of the crop are very similar to the methods used for Irish potatoes or other root crops. The cost of cultivating an acre is estimated at $16 50, which includes the irrigating and harvesting. As prepared for market the roots are sliced into pieces about one- twentieth to one-fourth of an inch thick and dried in the sun. When thus prepared they loose about two-thirds their weight, and the dried product contains from 20 to 35 per cent, tannin. Another method of preparation is by the making of an extract from the roots, which con- tains from 60 to 65 per cent tannin. The supply of wild canaigre is rapidly becoming exhausted. From January 1st, 1891, to October 31, 1892, there were shipped to Europe, over the Southern Pacific Railway, 370 car loads of the sliced and dried roots valued at $40 to $65 per ton. Ramie of an unusually long and fine fibre can be grown. Mr. 38 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. Will iam H. Parmenter, of New Orleans, who has made the subject one of special study, said that four crops a year could be taken off, He said it would cost $40 an acre to procure the roots for planting, but they would last a long time. There would be four cuttings each year yielding a total of 63 tons, making about $96 or $ 100 to the acre. The climate and soil of the Coast Country are ideal for its growth. The frost touches the stem or plant but not the roots, which produce as if not touched. There is a demand for the plants product over the whole country. It is not limited to any part of the world. It would pay the farmers from $40 to $100 an acre per annum. To every 1,000 acres a four thousand spindle factory can be advan- tageously established and operated. Thus the farmer finds a market for his product, the factory material to work on and the laborers something to do. The finest fiber in the world is produced in Mississippi, Louisiana and Texas. The moist climate suits the ramie. No insect or worm has ever been known to trouble it. It is no more taxing on the soil than cotton. In case the farmer wants to get rid of the roots it can easily be ploughed. That tobacco of a superior quality, equal in some notable in- stances to the products of Cuban fields, can be raised in the Coast Country, is an assured fact. Mr. E. L. Dunlap, of Victoria, showed the writer some samples of tobacco which he had raised, and which experts were unable to tell from Havana leaf submitted at the same time. At the beginning of the year Mr. Dunlap secured some seed from Havana and he took off three crops in 1895 from the one plant- ing. The average of the first two crops was from 1,500 to 2,000 pounds per acre, and at prevailing prices it was worth 45 cents per pound. The idea that tobacco grown here is not so strong and well flavored as that from elsewhere is a mistake, because when properly handled and cured it has both strength and flavor. Texas tobacco is like all other kinds. It must go through sweats and other curing pro- cesses to bring out its qualities, but its qualities, when brought out, are perfect and will sell anywhere. In East Texas and along the coast of Texas tobacco should be cultivated extensively and with big profit. O. A. Smith, a reliable resident of Montgomery County, writes: “ Tobacco culture here is a success beyond a doubt. It has been grown here for several years past by three or four parties. Up to this year, though, we have only had a small per cent, of the crop wrappers on account of worms. This year all the tobacco growers use trained turkeys and they do away with hand worming entirely. The crop this year is absolutely clear of worm holes and 40 to 50 per THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 39 cent, of the crop will be wrappers, the rest good fillers. Last year’s crop was sold in Chicago at 35 cents per pound. We were after- ward offered 42 F cents per pound for it in New York. Everyone we sent samples to pronounced it superior to Florida tobacco in flavor.” There is no danger in losing money in any of the varieties. If the Burley, or Pryor or any of the large and heavy varieties are planted, the great number of pounds which they produce to the acre will more than cover all expenses in raising and marketing. If the finer fibered varieties be planted, such as Connecticut, Cuban or Su- matra, the high price they command will more than make up for the smaller number of pounds per acre. Rice is one of the most profitable of the Coast Country crops. Its cultivation is identical with that of wheat, with the exception of the flooding of the fields, a simple and not expensive requisite. The sandy loam so generally found in the Coast Country raises great rice crops. It is harvested as is wheat, the same machinery being used. Improved machinery for ditching purposes is within easy reach and can be had under contract at a reasonable outlay, with a charge of so much per yard for ditching and making levees. The most remarkable fact in connection with the culture of rice and wheat is the price of lands on which the crops are grown. Wheat lands from $40 to $100 an acre; rice lands $3.00 to $5.00; the former crop yielding $8.00 to ^15.00 an acre, the latter $30.00 to $50,00 an acre. In southeast Louisiana, where the crop is universally cultivated these same lands sell at from $10.00 to $40.00 an acre. In the Coast Country of Texas they are still to be had at an average price of $5.00. In speaking of profits derived from rice culture, it would be im- possible in an article of this kind to convince the reader of the small outlay of money and labor necessary in the cultivation of rice, but if the reader is interested and will take the trouble to investigate, he will discover that more than two-thirds of the market price of rice is clear profit to the farmer. For ten years past the average price of rice in the market has been three dollars per barrel. The crop runs from eight to sixteen barrels per acre and for purposes of brief illustration we can take 12 barrels as a conservative estimate. One acre at $3.00 per bar- rel is $36.00, 100 acres would be $3,600, less expenses, which vary from $8.00 to $12.00, and to be safe take $10.00 per acre or $1,000 to the 100 acres. The price quoted represents the New Orleans market, consequently the freight, 36 cents per barrel, is to come out, or $4.32 per acre which is $432.00 on 100 acres. Thus we find the total expenses $1,432.00, to be deducted from $3,600.00, which gives 40 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. a net profit of $2,168.00 off of 100 acres. These profit figures can be considerably reduced and still greatly exceed any other crop grown. Early last spring Mr. C. C. Gibbs, Land Commissioner of the Southern Pacific at San Antonio, who has done much to bring the re- sources of Texas to the notice of prospective settlers, and who for years has been indefatigable in investigating every point that could promote the interest of the home seeker, sent outacircular of inquiry to farmers in Liberty and Chambers counties particularly to elicit in- formation respecting the degree of success attained in the cultivation of rice. The circular letter was as follows: “Will you kindly write stating where you moved from, and when did you buy your land, about what time you began breaking it, and when did you commence to plant? What kind of soil is your land? How many acres are you cultivating and what kind of crops are you growing? State as near as you can about what the yield per acre will be, conditions favorable to harvest time. If you have done any ditching or made levees for rice. What has been the cost? Any other information not called for in this letter will be appreci- ated.” Among the replies received, all dated April or July 1895, we quote the following: Raywood, Liberty County, Texas We came to Liberty County from McPherson County, Kansas, the fall of 1893. The climate here is not as cold in winter or as warm in summer as there. We are farming rice exclusively. Our rice averaged fifty bushels per acre last year. What I have seen of pears, peaches, plums and grapes 1 am convinced in a few years one can have all they want. We grow garden vegetables almost the year round. We use well water at twenty two feet and it is good. L. W. Welch. Devers, Liberty County, Texas. Planted eighty acres of rice on new land. Cost of ditching and leveling $75.00 Rainfall sufficient without irrigation. Planted in March and April and sowed by hand. Sowed G bushels per acre. Crop is good and will average 12L barrels per acre. W. A. ABSHIER. Devers, Liberty, County, Texas. We bought this section in December last and commenced to plow about March 1st. The soil is what we call a deep black soil, with some sand, what the people in this neighborhood call a sandy marsh, and it is very easily worked. We have 100 acres broke and com- THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 41 menced to sow about the 10th of May. Eighty acres, which we put in first, is all covered with water ten to twelve inches and stands hip high and very thick and what old rice growers say looks extra fine. This being our first year we are unable to make an estimate. The other twenty acres were not planted until June 28th, and is five or six inches high Our ditches and levees cost us in the neighborhood of $125 00. We are from Iowa. Blirdett Brothers. Dayton, Liberty County, Texas. I am a native of Canada but came here from Wisconsin May 1st, 1891, and located on this farm January 1st, 1893. I like the climate, it is not to be compared to any part of the north. My chief i_rop has been rice, of which I have made a great success, it paying about $45.00 per acre with same expense as wheat or oats, and is sowed either broadcast or with a drill and cut with a self binder and thresh- ed with a separator. In this state it is ready for the market, but I go still further and mill it ready for the merchant, which is still more profitable. We have now 800 acres under the plow. Corn does fine, also millet, which makes two tons per acres and two crops per year. My pears, peaches, plums, apricots and figs are doing fine. A great many northern people are settling around me. I am also starting to raise ramie, and which the lowest estimate promises $80.00 per acre, and when once planted is there forever. R. A. KlERPSTEAi). Turtle Bayou, Chambers County, Texas. Yours relating to the productions of this county and other matters of special interest to emigrants just received. In reply have to state that I am not able to give any answer, from the fact that I did not move out here till August 1st last, consequently have raised no crop except a few Irish potatoes last fall Set out strawberries December 24th, 1894. Commenced eating the berries in March 1895. Broke the turf for garden December 1894, and since March 25th, have had plenty of garden truck and during April have been enjoying new Irish potatoes and peas. Every thing in garden is doing fine. Have some field corn two feet tall. A. G. Robb. Perryman, Texas. We arrived here December 28th, 1894. Am farming fourteen miles north of Liberty and our crop consists principally of corn and cotton. My corn was planted about the 12th of March and in the drill with northern seed corn, and the average height is about ten 42 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS feet. 1 estimate the yield at thirty to thirty-five bushels per acre. Corn cut short one-fourth by excessive rain. My cotton bids fair to yield half to three-quarters of a bale per acre. This land has been in constant cultivation since i860. Soil is a gray, sandy, easily worked. jAAtES H. Rankins. An Eight Year Old Pear Tree Liberty, Texas. We have 280 acres of rice on new land; all broke in the last nine months. Began planting in April and finished the last of May Our land is heavy black land. We have two 4 inch artesian wells at a THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 43 depth of 267 feet and they flow 600,000 gallons every twenty-four hours. We are satisfied this class of water will answer all purposes) but our supply is insufficient for the acreage. We contemplate sinking additional wells for next year’s crop. The yield in some portions of our field will run, estimated fifteen barrels per acre, and in other places much less on account of shortage in the water supply. Our ditching and levees cost about $2.00 per acre. Neyland and Douglass. Devers, Liberty County, Texas. I have about 500 acres in rice. This is the second yedr for 170 acres; the balance in new land. Commenced plowing about March 1st, began sowing 9th of April and finished 27th of May. Sowed with a broadcast seeder. In Louisiana we aim to put one bushel per acre, but 1 sowed thicker here, as I was told rains did not set in as early and some would die out. The ditching was partly done when we came on the farm. I think for the uses of ditches alone cost five cents per rod for single ditch and ten cents for double ditch. 1 pre- sume you want to know the cost of levees. With a Burton road grad- er and ten pairs of good oxen and three men you can put up from half to three quarters of a mile per day and under favorable circum- stances a mile can be graded. This has been a very favorable year for rice culture so far. The plant stands four feet high and very thick on the ground. Our earliest sowing will be ready to cut the last of August. All things remaining favorable, think we are safe in expecting twelve to fifteen barrels per acre. We have marsh land, and it is black, tough and sticky. I do not know of any reason why rice will not grow in Texas as well as Louisiana. There is not as much rice land in Texas as in Louisiana and not as much danger of being cut off from water supply and drainage, as one is as essential as the other. 1 came from Kentucky to Louisiana six years ago and to this county this year. George T. B. Hamilton. Rice was not experimented with in the eastern counties of the coast country until about four years ago. Indeed it has only been seven or eight years since the staple began to grow commercially in southwest Louisiana which is now the greatest center of production. The value of the crop and the success obtained by their neighbors in Louisiana, induced the farmers in Jefferson County to give rice a trial four years ago, and the results were of such a satisfactory na- ture that in 1892 the acreage was largely increased and the number of rice farms opened quadrupled. In 1892 the total number of acres planted in that county in rice was about 2;oo, with the result of an 44 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. average yield per acre of fifteen barrels, the market price of which ranged from $ 2.00 to $4.00 per barrel. This is a crop especially suited to the lands of the county, and as these lands can be bought at from $5.00 to $10.00 per acre the home seeker will at once perceive the advantage. Until 1892 rice was exclusively an experimental crop in Jeffer- son, and the methods of cultivation were crude and imperfect, but even under these circumstances the yield was so bountiful that in the year mentioned a few farmers ventured to plant it for profit, and the results were so satisfactory that in 1893 there were 2845 acres put in cultivation. The yield averaged fifteen barrels to the acre, and was marketed at $ 2 . 50 per barrel, the gross value of the crop being in the neighborhood of $100,000. It might be well to say here that $2.50 per barrel is an unreasonably low price for rice, but the profits that accrued to the farmers even at that price, were so satisfactory that last year — 1894 — the acreage was more than doubled. The season of 1894 was not at all favorable for rice growing, there being insuffi- cient rain when the plant was most in need of its peculiar nourishment but this is a disaster that can be averted by proper irrigation, and the farmers are taking this precaution, as it is comparatively inex- pensive, owing to the numerous rivers, bayous and lakes whose wa- ters are easily obtained. The yield for 1894 is, of course, not so large per acre as that of 1893, but the increase in price will make profits to the farmer somewhat larger. As shown by an official table, the acreage in 1894 was 5126, the yield was not less than eight and one-half barrels to the acre, which put the total crop at 43,571 barrels. The prevailing market price was $3.50 to $4.50 per barrel, which would place the gross value of Jefferson County’s crop in the neighborhood of $175,000, which is four times greater than the aggregate sum derived from the sale of cattle from the county ranches that year, and it is a figure which, when the acreage is considered, makes rice the most profit- able product of Texas soil, aside from the growing of vegetables and fruit. No more favorable conditions exist for the successful growing of fine stock of all kinds than are to be found in the Coast Country. The winters being winters in name only, the stock grower does not labor six months in the year to raise feed with which to “carry his stock through’’ the other six. Alfalfa and many of the tame grasses have been successfully grown here for years, but only as an experiment or in limited quantities, the vast acres of unfilled lands covered with rich growths of natural grass serving to pasture native stock through the year. But with the settlement of the country there is a constant THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 45 and growing demand for a better class of stock all over the state, and full bloods of any breeds are scarce. With the war being waged on the long-horned cow, razor-back hog and mustang pony, the better breeds are gaining a lasting victory. The profits of stock raising are best illustrated by example. Pasturage on large tracts is ordinarily figured on the basis of 1 5 cents an acre. Cows this fall were worth $14.00; 4 year old steers $25.00. It costs from $6.00 to $6.25 to ship a ioco pound steer to the Chicago market, where it brings three and a half cents per pound on the hoof. In figuring the profit of stock raising the residents usually estimate a cowat$io.co; the interest on the four acres it requires to pasture her (ten per cent on a valuation of $6.co per acre) at $2.40. Total cost of cowand pasture $12.40; increase one calf which sells for $5.00 with the cow left. Dairying and poultry raising are destined to become leading pur- suits, and so long as broilers find ready sale in such close markets as Houston and Galveston at from forty to sixty cents apiece, milk ten cents per quart and butter forty cents per pound, so long will the profits continue enormous. Next in importance to the cotton crop is the successful and prof- itable management of a general farm in the Coast Country is a crop of corn. This cereal with good cultivation may be depended upon for from forty to seventy-five bushels to the acre, and as this is natural- ly a hog country, the intelligent breeder of a better class of porkers finds here ample scope for this industry, and profitable remuneration for his labor. Corn in the lower coast region can be and often is, planted in the middle of January and if frost killed it the farmer still had plenty of time to replant and still raise two crops on the ground. Hogs are fed through the summer on sorghum cut green, the crop be- ing cut over two or three times, and in the fall are fattened on corn. A Velasco correspondent of the “Houston Post’’ recently said: “First years’’ sod prairie land in Texas is not considered good for corn, but yesterday Mr. Bernard Karl finished gathering 3142 bushels from fifty-five acres near Velasco, that up to last February had al- ways been an open range. In February he broke the turf two inches deep, cross broke it four to five inches deep, harrowed it and after bedding with a cultivator planted a late March crop and cultivated shallow and often. The yield and field were carefully measured, making over 57 bushels to the acre. The Gulf Coast Country of Texas is not adapted to the growing of wheat, though wheat, barley and rye in most parts of the middle coast country will make a fair crop three years out of four, but 46 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS oats is a prolific crop and heavy yields are often reported. Twenty- four bushels is an average yield per acre and the average price per n d o O d d 'd s> si d O 5 o o si H bushel twenty-two cents, Frequently yields of seventy-five, eighty and even ninety bushels have been reported. CITIES AND TOWNS OF THE GULF COAST. There is an admirable distribution of thrifty towns all through the Coast country, affording both local markets, admirable society and facilities for cultivation, while in the very center of the region, connected with all its parts by rail and water lines, are the growing cities of Houston and Galveston, affording every luxury and advan- tage of large urban population. It is only necessary to refer in brief to the two great industrial and trade centers, for information relative to them is easily within reach of anyone desiring to investigate the subject more fully. Eleven trunk lines of railroad enter Houston, affording ample means for traffic with half of the vast area between the Mississippi River and the Pacific Coast. The roads actually centering here have a mileage of 9,000 miles, and the connecting systems a mileage of 31,- 000. The city has a population of sixty thousand, estimated, who have prospered not alone because the city has become both a great railway and a vast manufacturing center, but because it is also at the head of tide-water navigation on Buffalo Bayou, with ship channel navigation to the Gulf of Mexico, and through which is carried about 500,000 bales of cotton annually. The city was founded in 1837 It has a healthful and enjoyable sub-tropical climate; mean summer tem- perature of ninety degrees, an average winter temperature of sixty degrees; sweet, pure and soft artesian water; a low death rate— only nine to the thousand; thirty miles of paved streets — vitrified brick, stone and wood; no stagnant water, and an admirable sewerage sys- tem; handsome public and business buildings, and many beautiful private residences; the finest electric street railway system in the South; a taxable valuation of $17,000,000, the rate being $2 per $100; a high school and twelve public schools for seven thousand children. Galveston is built on the extreme east end of the island of the same name just off the coast. It has a population of about 50,000. The finest land-locked harbor on the Gulf of Mexico has given Gal- veston an immense carrying trade. Here come ships from European and South American ports to carry away our cotton, corn and wheat in exchange for money or foreign commodities. A few years ago the great West awoke to the fact that it was linked to a deep-water port several hundred miles nearer the interior than is New York City The United States Government appropri- ated $6,200,000 to secure a channel of sufficient depth across the bar 48 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. at the entrance of the bay, and now there is sixteen to seventeen feet of water at mean low tide, which will be increased to accommodate any craft that floats. Jetty construction was commenced in 1885, but work was not actively pushed until 1890. The south jetty is six miles long, and the north arm has been extended two miles. During the five months ending January 31, 1893, there arrived at Galveston 194 steamships, with capacity of 321,000 tons, and manned by 5,500 sailors; also 55 sailing vessels, of 25,000 tons, and carrying 420 men — not including the small local craft. The clearances were nearly as many. In other words, the vessels regularly touching at Galveston can accommodate five thousand cars in and out monthly. Three miles of completed wharves on the bay front, with room for more, amply accommodate existing traffic. Immense grain elevators have been erected, one of which can load four ships at once. Turning now for a brief glance at the lesser commercial centers of the coast region, we find how admirably located they are to serve the purposes of their respective communities. We do not speak of them as less important than the large cities. Within the sphere of their influence they are every whit as important ■ — more so, in fact, because they establish the home market needful to the farmer’s pros- perity. Their condition of substantial prosperity is an index to the character of the people and to the productive wealth of the region they serve. In fact, we will find nowhere more pleasant or active towns cr finer public buildings. We can only glance hastily at a few of the more notable. Beginning with the eastern border of the coast country, we have, upon the banks of the Sabine River, the town of Orange, coun- ty seat of Orange County, 256 miles west of New Orleans, at the head of tide-water navigation, communicating through Sabine Pass with the Gulf of Mexico, eighteen miles south, and on the Southern Pacific railroad. The present population, six thousand, is increasing rapidly, especially in the country, ow'ing to the influx of people from the Northern and Western States, taking advantage of the large body of land so excellently adapted to rice culture, cotton, vegetables, fruit and diversified farming. Orange is the principal lumber manufacturing center of the Southwest, having five saw mills, five planing mills, three shingle and stave mills, producing annually 250,00x3,000 feet of lumber and 1 35,000,000 shingles. These mammoth concerns employ thousands of men in the mills. The success that has attended rice culture in the county is attracting widespread attention, and the acreage is al- most doubling yearly. Four years ago there was not an acre of rice in Orange County. This year 2, 163 acres were planted. Although THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 49 this land was not properly cultivated, the crop was beyond expecta- tion, yielding eight to ten barrels per acre, and netting the lucky farmers about $63,900. This has stimulated agricultural industry. Rice can be raised in Orange County without irrigation. Cotton, corn, wheat oats and barley yield in abundance. Vegetables of every variety yield three crops a year. Oranges, peaches, pears, figs and berries are the principal fruit products of the county. The mercantile and manufacturing industries of Orange do a bus- iness of $5,000,000 annually. The climate of Orange is healthful, equable and pleasant. It is so thoroughly drained by the Sabine and Neches Rivers, and living streams flowing through the country into them, that the natural causes of sickness are reduced to a minimum. The death rate is only about fifteen in a thousand, and physicians report that sickness in the ma- jority of cases is attributable to individual carelessness and exposure which in many climates would kill. Winter exists only in name. It is like April and May in the Western and Northern States. The ther- mometer, tempered by the Gulf breeze and evenly distributed rains, ranges between 60 and 90 degrees during summer. The site of the city is high, and so perfectly drained that the streets are dry within six hours after the heaviest rains. The natural advantages of Orange have recently attracted na- tional attention, and the work now in progress at Sabine Pass, upon which an appropriation of $275,000 is being expended, is only a step toward the dredging of Sabine Lake so as to admit of the passage of steamers of the deepest draught from the Gulf to Orange. The Sa- bine River sounds thirty to fifty-six feet between Orange and Sabine Lake (a fact that is not generally known ), and the dredging of the lake, which is only a question of a short time, will make Orange the only freshwater harbor in the Southwest. A shipyard has already been started in anticipation of this, several new railroads have been incorporated, and the Orange Board of Trade is daily receiving in- quiries from Eastern and Western manufacturers who contemplate availing themselves of the hitherto comparatively unknown resources from which so many fortunes have been amassed. Beaumont, twenty-one miles farther west on the Southern Pa- cific Railway, and at the head of tidewater on the Neuces River, has large and varied manufacturing interests, including three large saw mills and shingle mills, making over 60,000,000 feet of lumber and 150,000,000 shingles; an improved brickmaking plant with a capaci- ty of 40,000 bricks and terra cotta work; rice mill with a capacity of 30,000 barrels; furniture factory, ice works, bottling works, water works and electric light plant, pine stave factory, stave yards, foun- 50 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- dry and machine shop, four hotels, three newspapers, fifty business houses doing a business of over one million dollars a year. Has five schools, seven churches of different denominations. It is a railroad center, with the Texas & N. O., Sabine and East Texas and Beau- mont and Kansas City railroads. Agricultural products are rice and general farm products,, oats, sugar cane and corn. Ships annually over two hundred million feet of lumber and twenty thousand sacks <>f rice. Rice is a new venture in this section, and great results have been obtained by those who have planted this cereal. W. A. Ward, a northern man, who has made a marked success in agriculture near Beaumont, in an open letter, which applies to all the region between the Sabine and Houston, says: “Lands are still very cheap — cheaper and on better terms than Uncle Sam offers — ranging in price from §2.00 to $10.00 per aciv, and my advice to friends is to secure land soon, if you expect it at present prices. You ask what these lands will produce? 1 answer almost everything that grows except wheat and apples. In the place of the former we grow rice as the great cereal, which yields about twice as much per acre and brings about twice as much per bushel and can be grown as cheaply as wheat. Sugar cane is also very profitable. Crops of either bring $50.00 per acre, while it is difficult to compute the income from an orchard of pear trees. At the age of eight years each tree yields about $25.00, and they increase for many years. “Farm work can be carried on here the year round, and two crops of many things can be produced each year. The summers are long and warm, but not so excessively hot as north. Men work every day in the fields and in the mill yards exposed to the sun, and sun-stroke is not known here. “The temperature is more even and seldom as high as 96, and never so high as north during some of its “heated terms.” My ow; work has been in doors largely, but others who came south last win- ter and spring have worked in the open fields every day this sum- mer, and have done more work than they were able to do north — their health being better here. My experience and observation is that northern men have no less energy here than there. “The change of climate usually proves beneficial to those afflict- ed with catarrh, lung or bowel trouble, also to dyspeptics, but is not so good for those inclined to biliousness. Bilious or malarial fever is the most common complaint here, but not so common or fatal as is typhoid fever north. “If you come south the people of Southeast Texas will treat you well and be glad to see you; you will find good schools and plenty of THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 51 churches. My advice to all is to. come first to see how you like it, prepared to stay long enough to get acquainted. If you cannot do this, bring only such stock as you can care for and feed, in part until they become acclimated. Bring everything else you can. Remem- ber you are coming to a new country, so far as farming is concern- ed.” Wharton, the county seat of Wharton County, is 61 miles southwest of Houston, on the east bank of the Colorado, and occu- pies a beautiful rise of ground some forty feet above low water in the river. The town was laid out in 1846, but its growth was slow until the advent of the New York, Texas and Mexican Railroad in 1882. This advent at once brought the place into prominence as the princi- pal business and shipping point not only for Wharton, but for Mata- gorda county to the south of it as well. The present population is about 1700 and that of the county 10,000. The public square is adorned with a substantial brick court house three stories in height. 'Situated in one of the most fertile and productive counties of the state, possessing admirable railroad facilities, with a climate at once equable and healthy, the natural trading center for a locality far be- yond her county limits, she has no cause to apologize for either the character or goods of her mercantile establishments, which embrace full supplies in all lines. Cotton is her chief export, having shipped some 9,000 bales this season. While cotton is still considered the main cash crop, diversified farming, fruit growing and the raising of fine stock is rapidly gaining in favor, and will mark a new era in the general prosperity of both city and county. Several cotton gins and a grist mill are kept busy here; a fine brickyard is nowin successful operation, which with the contemplated oil mill about covers the extent of manufacturing enterprises so far at this point. But with the large bodies of valuable timber so close at hand, and the raw material accumulating at our very doors, oppor- tunities can here be obtained by the manufacturer for the site of many kinds of factories and shops superior to those of larger cities, and the people of Wharton are prepared to welcome any who may propose to make this location the seat of their operations and to afford them every assistance which is in their power. Victoria, the capital of the county of that name, is one of the most sightly and progressive towns of the whole Coast Country. It is one of the wealthiest towns of its size in the country and possesses the most beautiful court house the writer has ever seen in a country town — a model structure of cream stone, of admirable architecture and finished throughout in native woods. Victoria, which is one hundred miles southwest from San Antonio, 52 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. An Orange Tree at BeeviUe. THE COAST COUNTRY OF T£XAS. 53 160 miles from Galveston, 125 southwest from Houston, one hundred miles from Aransas Pass, and 28 miles northwest of Port Lavaca, on the bay, is called the City of Roses. It is situated on the New York, Texas and Mexican Railroad, connecting at Rosenberg, 92 miles north- east, with the Gulf, Colorado and Santa Fe. and the Galveston, Har- risburg and San Antonio (S. P. System). Victoria is the eastern ter- minus of the Gulf, West Texas and Pacific Railway (Beeville exten- sion), and connects with the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway at Cuero, 28 miles north, and at Beeville, 55 miles west, with the same road. Four graveled roads lead north, south, east and west from Victoria. The soil of the county is from light sandy to blackest hog-wallow. The city is enjoying a healthy, steady growth, its present pop- ulation being between six and seven thousand. The streets are wide, kept in good condition, and the sidewalks better than are usually found in cities of its size. A fine system of water-works, owned and operated by the city, furnishes an ample supply of water for irrigating and household purposes, as well as for the prevention of any disastrous conflagration, the fire department being well equipped and ably managed. A fine electric light plant fur- nishes light for the city, and is in general use in public buildings, stores, offices and many of the private residences. Churches of nearly every denomination hold services in Victoria, which are well attended. The principal secret societies have lodges there. The educational facilities of the city are excellent, there be- ing several institutions of learning in addition to the ably conducted public schools. Two banks, one national and one private, both with ample capital, are as solid financial institutions as can be found in the State. An opera house with a seating capacity of one thousand, as well as many substantial business blocks and beautiful homes, make this an almost ideal town. Victoria was first settled In 1824. The general face of the coun- try throughout the section is level, though sufficiently undulating to afford ample drainage for much the larger portion of the county. To the westward of the city is situated the far-famed Mission Valley, whose picturesqueness of location and rich lands have made it well known both far and near. The northern portion of the county is a rich, alluvial, sandy, undulating prairie, with fine creeks of running waters. It is in this section that Mr. G. Onderdonk has been so suc- cessful with his nurseries, demonstrating its thorough adaptation to the growth of fruits and flowers. At this place is Nursery, a depot on the Gulf, Western Texas and Pacific Railroad, nine miles above the city of Victoria and nineteen miles below the city of Cuero, in 54 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. DeWitt County, at which there is a postoffice, a fine steam cotton gin and grist mill. A short distance above this is a stock pen on the G. W T. & P. railroad, for shipment of cattle, post office, two stores, etc., etc. The southeastern portion of the county is comparatively level, rich, black, stiff, hogwallow land, producing the finest native grapes, with a large number of farms on the Arinosa and Garcitas creeks. Through this section runs that branch of the G. W. T & P. railroad, running from Victoria to Port Lavaca, on which there are in Victoria County two depots: Guadalupe, five miles below Victoria and twen- ty-three miles above Port Lavaca, and Placido, thirteen miles befow Victoria and fifteen above Port Lavaca. The southwestern portion is rich, black alluvial prairie soil, quite undulating, yielding the finest of native grapes, and very susceptible of a high state of cultivation, producing fine crops of corn, cotton, sor- ghum, potatoes and all varieties of garden vegetables. Through this section runs that branch of the N. Y. T. & M. railroad leading from Victoria through Goliad to Beeville, on which there are in Victoria County, Aloe, a shipping point five miles west of Victoria; Lucy, a station eight miles west of Victoria, at which last named place there is quite a settlement, with fine farms well cultivated, with church and schoolhouse. At Victoria the compiler of this pamphlet secured the following facts and figures which can be depended upon as reliable, and which apply in large part to the whole region from Houston to Beeville: The average yield of cotton is three-fourths of a bale per acre; of corn, 30 bushels; sugarcane, an average of seven barrels of molasses per acre, this with inferior machinery run alone by horse power; sorghum yields three crops a year of four tons each per acre; millet two crops a year of two tons each; concho and confederate grass comes upon corn land after the crop is laid by, and if proper care is taken to leave land in suitable condition, it yields a ton per acre; native hay from prairie sells for six dollars per ton, Irish potatoes yield two hundred bushels per acre, sweet potatoes tw'o hundred bushels per acre, onions forty bushels per acre. Heretofore the attention of the people has been turned principally to the raising of cattle, for which purpose the county has been to a great extent fenced into large pastures. The day for cattle raising under the old system is passed, and more attention is given to farm- ing and raising fine stock. Jerseys, Durham, Brahman, Holstein, Hereford and Devon cattle have been tested, and all do well, yielding fine profits. It may be said here that the taxes, state and county, throughout THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 55 the Coast Country, run from 70 to 95 cents per hundred dollars, and broken farm lands are assessed at from $2.50 to $2.75 per acre. Port Lavaca, directly situated on the Gulf Coast, in Calhoun, the peninsular count)’ of Texas, is 28 miles east of Victoria and is the terminus of the G. W. T. & P. Railroad. The present population of the town is nine hundred and that of the county has grown from eight hundred in 1890 to twenty-two hundred in 1895. Population has heretofore been retarded through the great stock ’ranches and pas- tures, but these are now being put on the market and there are thou- sands of acres being offered to purchasers in lots ; to suit. The soil is a heavy black from five deep and ranges from black- black sandy. Below the is fifteen feet of clay and below that qauicksand strata in which there is an abundant flow of ex- cellent water. The town i to ten feet waxy to soil Post Office, Houston. of Port Lavaca is a great fish and game shipping point. The waters of the bay — ten feet in depth, with seven feet on the bar — are filled with the finest fish while in the fall and winter thousands of ducks, geese and brant are shot and shipped to New York, Baltimore, Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City as well as to the southern cities. Terrapin farming is also prosecuted with success. Green Lake in Calhoun County is the largest body of fresh water in the state, comprising some 6000 acres, with a depth of twelve feet in the center. The bluffs about it are in places forty feet high and finely timbered. The lake is filled with edible fish. At Port Lavaca the writer was shown specimens of figs from shoots of trees raised long before the war and which the Department of Agriculture recent- Market and City Hall, Houston. 56 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- ly pronounced a new and valuable variety. 1 also saw buckwheat which had been planted in September and was ripening in early No- vember. Two crops of potatoes, two of melons and sometimes two of corn are raised on the same ground. The timber, as along most of the coast is oak of various kinds, salt water cedar, elm, hackberry, etc. The county has a permanent school fund of $32,000, which en- ables it to have first class schools from eight to ten months each year. The population is quiet and law abiding and enterprising. Just across Lavaca bay near the town of Olivia is located the famous Swedish Colony, the success of which has done so much to make known the resources of the immediate Coast Country. Excel- lent prairie land adapted to any of the purposes of agriculture, horti- culture or truck farming, can be had throughout this region at from six to ten dollars per acre, often on the most reasonable terms, one-quar- ter cash, the balance in seven years time. Cuero, the county seat of DeWitt County, is located in the val- ley of the Guadalupe river, at the junction of the Southern Pacific and San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway, near the center of the county. It is 103 miles southeast from San Antonio, 183 miles west of Galveston and 170 miles from the new deep water harbor of Aran- sas Pass. It is a modern progressive city, with an established pres- ent and a certain future. Its location is exceptional and its commer- cial possibilities almost unlimited. The city is laid out on an attrac- tive plan. An esplanade, 120 feet in width, extends through the center of the city, and all cross streets are seventy feet wide, all well lighted and graded. The principal streets are lined with well design- ed business blocks of brick and stone, of handsome appearance, while fine houses of modern style of architecture, with attractive grounds, greet the eye on every hand. The stranger’s attention is at once di- rected to a beautiful structure of native white stone, trimmed in red sandstone, which is now under course of construction, and promises when completed, to be one of the handsomest court houses in the state, costing $70,000. During the season of 1894-5 there were marketed at Cuero, 24- 000 bales of cotton, and during the same time 12,500 head of cattle, 50 car loads of horses, mules, sheep and hogs were shipped from this point to other markets, while 250 cars of lumber, worth $50,000 and 2200 cars of merchandise valued at two million dollars, were received and distributed. Cuero supplies the farmers and merchants of a large adjacent territory. Two extensive merchandise houses have a large wholesale business extending to every portion of southwest Texas. One of the largest cotton seed oil mills in the state, having a capacity of eighty tons per day is in full operation, and a cotton factory with THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 57 fifteen hundred spindles producing the coarser grades of cotton goods, for which there is an unlimited home market. A new compress cost- ing $50,000 has just commenced operations, and notwithstanding a reduced acreage is doing a fine business. Cuero has three of the largest cotton gins in the state, supplied with the latest improved machinery, with a daily output of three hundred bales Machine shops of large capacity are kept busy by an increasing trade from several counties. An ice factory ships ice in car load lots in all directions; it also has a cold storage department in connection, and a natatorium with a large swimming pool. Two broom factories, two bottling works, a cigar factory, a tannery, a planing mill and a cistern factory are among the material interests of the city. Cuero has two private and one national banking institu- tions. They are all strong financially, under safe and conservative management, and transact an enormous business amounting to more than seven and one-half millions dollars annually. The financial status of the community is excellent, failures in business circles are few, and losses from loans are almost unknown. The city is in good financial condition. It owns its water works plant which cost $50,- 000. The total assessed value of the city is $1,750,000 at a very conservative valuation. The tax rate is eighty cents on the $100.00. The bonded debt of the city does not exceed $40,000, and warrants are all paid in full once a year. The city is lighted by electricity, the plant being dwned by a private corporation. Local and long dis- tance telephone systems are among the modern equipments of the city. Cuero has a fine graded school system with upwards of five hundred pupils, and a high school building costing $20,000, and sev- eral private schools of high merit. Eight churches rear their spires heavenward, as an evidence of Christian enlightenment and a God fearing community. The population of the county is approximately 20,000 people, about six thousand of which are urban and 14,000 rural residents. The assessors returns for 1895 show a total valuation of $6,062,047, for the county, an increase of $93,541 over last year, due entirely to improvements as land values were not raised. This valu- ation is on a very conservative estimate and probably less than half the real value of all property in the county which the writer believes to be approximately fifteen million dollars. There are in the county 48,336 cattle; 10852 horses and mules; 7634 hogs and 3987 sheep. Stock raising was the principal industry in the past, but agriculture has already taken the first position, and while the farmers all raise some stock, the great herds are being driven to seek new and less valuable lands. 58 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS The soil and climate are well adapted to fruit growing, and there are a few large and productive orchards in the county, but the de- mand is much greater than the supply, and there are great opportuni- ties for the horticulturist here. LeConte and other varieties of pears grow to perfection, and for flavor are superior to those grown in Cal- ifornia. As much as four hundred dollars per acre has been realized upon one year’s crop of this fruit. Peaches of the southern Chinese varieties are particularly prolific, while the “vine and fig-tree” have their home here. Plums, pomegranates, Japanese persimmons and berries of all kinds, particularly blackberries, are successfully grown Fortune awaits any and all who desire to engage in fruit raising in De- Witt County. Fine land suitable for farming or fruitgrowing can be had at from five to twelve dollars per acre, and even less in large tracts. Improved farms sell at from ten to twenty-five dollars per acre, and rare bargains are sometimes offered. Artesian water has been obtained at a depth of from 50 to 125 feet, while pure surface water is reached at from 15 to 40 feet. DeWitt County is a part of the famous “Cotton Belt” of Texas, and the fleecy staple is the prin- cipal crop. Cotton matures early, this county for years furnishing the first bale of the season. It is planted sometimes as early as Feb- ruary, but usually in March, and it begins to mature in June. Later cotton, however, has given good satisfaction for the past few years. The crop averages about three-quarters of a bale to the acre, and sells for cash in the Cuero market. Corn is an important crop, and the present year’s yield was enormous. Oats produce as high as one hun- dred bushels to the acre, and barley and rye are profitable. Irish po- tatoes yield two hundred bushels to the acre, while sweet potatpes are usually more prolific. Vegetables of all kinds grow to perfection, and many varieties grow nearly all the year. Melons attain enormous size, and are of excellent flavor. Hay is an important and valuable crop, both prairie and field grasses growing luxuriantly. Hay com- mands a fair price, and as much as three and four tons per acre are cut, two crops per year being the rule. Millet, fodder and other feed crops are raised with little labor and small outlay. This is the natural home of the cow and sheep, the pastures of this section being unsur- passed. Cattle need only be fed a few weeks in the year, and sheep require little attention. There are fine chances for profitable dairy farming here; good butter and milk command good prices and ready sale. Native timber consists of post oak, live oak, blackjack and mesquite on the uplands, while pecan, hickory, ash, elm, mulberry and hackberry abound in the valleys. There is a plentiful supply for all purposes for many years to come. For the above facts the writer is indebted to Mr. A. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 59 S. Crisp, editor of the Cuero Star, whose intelligent interest has done much to bring his city and county into notice abroad. The descrip- tion of soils and crops applying to Cuero will apply with equal force to the region for a considerable distance north and south on a line equi-distant from the coast line. Court House at Goliod, Texas, Goliad, 26 miles south of Victoria, is one of the historic towns of Texas, its history interwoven with that of the State, and embalming some of the noblest examples of devotion to patriotic fervor. It is a beautiful and busy town, in a splendid agricultural region. The 6o THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS county was created in 1836. It was a municipality of the same name prior to its organization. It is situated in Southwest Texas, and is one of the second tier of counties from the Gulf coast, from which it is separated by Refugio County. The leading industry of the people is stock-raising. Agriculture in connection with stock-raising is on the increase. The soil, which is a black sandy loam, is well suited to the growth of the common field crops of the State. That along the river bottoms is of great fertility. Nearly all kinds of vegetables grow and yield well; fruits also pro- duce well. Goliad, the county seat, is a place of historic importance, having been the scene of a massacre of a garrison of Texas soldiers by the Mexican army in 1836, after the former had yielded by a surrender to greatly superior numbers. The surface of the county is undulating, through which flows the San Antonio River, and a number of ever-living creeks. The as- sessed valuation of property is upwards of four million dollars, and the school population is close to two thousand. The city is graced by a beautiful court-house and very excellent commercial buildings and private residences, and is the seat of a cultivated society. Beeville, which was established in 1856, a year after the organiz- ation of the county, is at the junction of the Gulf, Western Texas & Pacific and San Antonio & Aransas Pass railways. Its present popu- lation is three thousand. An excellent court-house and a model school building are among the public structures which attract attention. There are six churches of different denominations. A Holly system of waterworks has been putin, and an electric light plant is talked of in connection with the ice plant which is now in operation. Beeville has several enterprises in the way of manufactories, such as a broom factory, fence factory, cornice factory, windmill factory, etc., besides a large number of enterprising merchants and business men, and two national banks are in operation. Like all, or the greater part of this section of the Coast country, the soil is a black sandy loam, and well adapted to the. growth of fruits. The grape, currant, and the berry fruits, blackberries, dew- berries and strawberries, all do well. The general surface of the county is rolling prairie, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, which furnishes ample pasturage for stock the larger portion of the year. Directly on the Gulf coast, at the extreme southern boundary of the region we are exploiting, are two excellent towns, Corpus Christi and Rockport, delightful winter or summer resorts, with much to com- mend them to the commercial spirit of the age. Corpus Christi is the THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 6l most beautifully located city by the sea in America. It is at the head of Corpus Christi Bay, directly behind Ropes Pass, and is known as the Bluff City, from the fact of being situated upon a noble bluff twice as high as the famous Long Branch, New Jersey. Before it ex- pands 150 miles of shimmering'water. It is not an unusual thing for a winter to slip by here without the appearance of a frost. Here is to be had the finest of fishing, boating, bathing and hunting It is fa- mous for its delicious oysters and other sea food. It is celebrated for its healthfulness, and its death rate is more favorable than that of the most renowned health resorts of the world. The official report for 1890 shows that the deaths among white people from natural causes were only eight per thousand. This is due to its situation facing the bay, swept by the salty sea breezes fresh from the Gulf of Mexico. These breezes make it cooler in summer and warmer in winter than any oth- er city in Texas. The population of the city is about six thousand, and the business center is substantially built up, while upon the bluff overlooking the bay are very handsome homes, some of which would do credit to Newport or Bar Harbor. There are two flowing mineral wells at Corpus Christi, one of them possessing remarkable curative properties. The lands in the vicinity are suitable to the cultivation of tobacco, sugar, cotton, grapes, figs, peaches, oranges, lemons, ban- anas and all varieties of garden truck. The rich dark soil, which is from five to nine feet deep, is practically inexhaustible. Mr. Joe Tri- pis, a practical market gardener, has prepared the following statistics of early market gardening from his own experience. The estimates are based on two crops per year, while as a matter of fact three are raised successfully. COST. YIELD PER ACRE Earlj Crop Cate Crop Amount Seed Potatoes, 8 bushels to the acre, at .$1 Seed Corn, ten quarts to the acre, at 30c . $ 8.00 3.0U Bushels Price Price Seed Tomatoes, V 4 lb to the acre, at $2 Seed Peas, 3 bushels to the acre, at $2.50,. .50 7.5!) Potatoes, 125 $3.00 $0.75 $ 468 . 75 Seed Melons, l L 4lbs to the acre, at 35c . . Seed Cabbage -%lb to the acre, at $2 52 Corn ,36 .60 .40 35 00 1.00 Tomatoes, 250 4.00 2.00 1,500.00 Seed Cauliflower, two ounces, at $5 10.00 Peas, 55 8.00 1.50 247 50 Seed Beans, two bushel s to acre, at $4 8.00 Beans, 9‘) 3.0. 1.50 405 00 Ten acres of land, at $50 500 00 Melons, 1,000 . . . .25 .10 350.00 Three-room Cottage 450 00 Cabbage, 8000. .07 560 00 Help, etc Total 7 1 .48 $ 1.060.10 Cauliflower, 7,000.. Total — — 1,400.00 $ 4,966 25 STATE of TEXAS, ) Sworn to and subscribed before me this 12th day of February* COUNTY of ARANSAS. ( 1891.. E. H. NOR YELL, Notary Public, Aransas County, Texas. Rockport, in San Patricio County, has an interesting history. Twenty years ago Rockport was the wealthiest town of its size in the South, and the name was known to all Texans of that day — before the railroads came — as one of the largest beef canning centers in the Union, in fact, the Chicago of the South as regards this industry. 62 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS Now it is one of the most inspiring and beautiful and restful sum- mer resorts to be imagined. The town is situated on what is called Live Oak Peninsula, between Aransas and Copano Bays, about six miles from the point on the Aransas Bay side and three miles from the Copano Bay side. The land of the Peninsular is a mixture of disintegrated shell and sand, with an underlying white clay subsoil from four to six feet from the surface, and is profusely covered with live oak trees, from which it takes its name. The live oaks extend to the water’s edge on both shores, and in some places are of immense growth, affording a picturesque combination of forest and sea. The population of the town is about twelve hundred, and the principal in- dustries are hunting and fishing. To-day the mournful evidences of her former greatness lie in mute proof of the changed economic conditions made possible by the iron horse. And to-day the masters of the iron horse have decided to again bring life to this old town, not as a beef canning center, not as a place to seek a livelihood by the wholesale destruction of her thousands of wild fowl and fishes, but as a spot selected by nature as her favorite playground, to which she has given the balmiest, brightest days, the purest, dryest air, and the most elevated position of her southern coast. From indications taken six times each twenty-four hours the past three years by Capt. Stracken, the wharfmaster, at 6 a.m., 12 m., 3 p.m., 6 p.m., 12 m. and 3 a.m., the following averages have been arrived at: Winter months — thermometer 57 deg., barometer 30.70; spring months — thermometer 77, barometer 30; summer months — thermometer 86, barometer 29.90; fall months — thermometer 60, bar- ometer 30.50. This gives more correct averages than could be arrived at from the Signal Service reports, as their indications are taken only three times in twenty-four hours. This section has no rainy season, but rains average well through- out the year, with a possible excess during June and July. Water never stays but a few minutes on the surface, no matter how hard the fall, but sinks through the porous soil and is retained on the clay subsoil. During the months of November and December, 1892, January and February, 1893, there were ninety-seven clear days, seven cloudy days, and seventeen partly both. Agriculture in this section up to about five years ago was an un- known quantity, and is engaged in at present only to a limited extent, except in two particulars — grape and winter vegetable growing. These industries do well here, there being now about eight hundred acres planted in winter vegetables, which will supply the market un- til March. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 63 A Coast Country Pear Orchard. 64 THE CAOST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. In a review of the immediate Coast country, as exemplified at such points as Corpus Christi, Rockport, Aransas Pass, Port Lavaca, etc., it may be said that there are aids and abettors in the economy of living that are readily taken advantage of. From fall to spring all the waters are covered with millions of duck, geese and brant, and on shore there are quail, rabbits, peccaries, wild turkeys, deer, etc. The bays are alive with the finest food and game fish of many varie- ties. There are oysters, shrimp, crabs and turtles without limit. Another pleasant feature is the conspicuous absence of doctors’ bills from the domestic economy. As the residents say, the country could not be healthier, there is absolutely no malaria in this Coast Country. This may be ascribed to the pure drinking water and the salt breezes from the Gulf of Mexico. Though the death rate at Gal- veston is only 13.3 per 1000, it is so much lower in Corpus Christi that Galveston is considered a very unhealthy place. It is only 8 per 1000 at Corpus Christi; and that is about as low as it can get, even where people die of old age only. At Aransas Pass it has not reached 8 per 1000, as but few people are old enough to establish the rate. The doctors say there is no prevailing disease, and children grow up in perfect immunity from many of the dangers that sur- round them in the north. Thus in brief we have reviewed — not fully nor in detail — the chief towns of the country. It has been a trying task, because so many charming places, made memorable by the courtesy and enthu- siasm of their leading citizens, no less than by their public spirit and progress, have been worthy of consideration ; but in so general a re- view, having so many interests to present within a limited space and with so many demands upon one’s time and thought, it was not pos- sible to do justice at this time to much that appealed to one for con- sideration. It suffices to say that the towns referred to are an index to all. The lesser ones are prototypes of the larger — infused by the same spirit of progress, of enlightenment and of thrift. They are all centers of intelligence, of culture and refinement in proportion to their size. As they afford markets for the products of the farmer so too they offer educational and social advantages and these are by no means confined to those enumerated. Each county capital has its satellites, lesser centers, so far as population is concerned and yet equally important to the neighborhoods tributary to them. Having come in contact with many people in many different localities in this wide Coast Country, the disinterested writer vouches for their intelli- gence, their kindly interest, their hospitality and their activity in every movement to promote the welfare of their section or secure and assist desirable emigrants to secure homes among them. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 65 On the Public Square at Waco. THE HOME SEEKER AND A PEN-PICTURE CONTRAST. It is not improbable that in the course of this hasty review many of the less conspicuous and some of the more important field and garden crops which can be profitably raised in the Coast Country have been omitted. But enough has been said to show how varied are the prod- ucts and to illustrate the wide range here afforded the agriculturist, the horticulturist and the gardener. Reference has been made to the soils, to the lines of transportation and the methods of communica- tion, to the market and shipping facilities, to the advantages of cli- mate, to the character of the population and the influence of its schools, churches and all the institutions of an advanced civilization. It is needless to say that a warm welcome awaits the law abiding, in- dustrious settler. But what class of people should settle on the Gulf Coast? In the first place this is not a Utopia where man can acquire wealth without effort. For him who comes with the energy and de- termination, the willingness to work and the purpose to succeed, there is an assured competency. But if any one who shall read these pages has imbibed the impression that he can secure affluence in idleness he might as well dismiss the thought or stay away from Texas. The good things to be had here are to be won as the result of toil. The soil does not yield without planting nor give up its har- vests without reaping. Fertile and generous as it is, it must be cul- tivated and the husbandman must follow the plow or bend with the hoe as elsewhere. The only difference is that here the returns are larger. The reward is in proportion to the care and industry be- stowed. 1 took a great deal of pains to ascertain what had been accom- plished by actual settlers who had come from the North, and to learn what were the requisites for successful home seekers of modest means and what they could reasonably hope to accomplish with mod- est capital at their disposal. I looked in upon the colony of Swedes who came from Travis County, Texas, in 1892, and located eight miles west of Victoria. They paid ten dollars an acre for their land and put small improvements upon it. Upon their purchases they paid one-third down and had five years in which to pay the balance. The second year all but one man paid out. In the spring of 1895 they were offered $22. 50 per acre for their land and refused it. They knew a good thing when they saw it. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 67 A man coming to the Coast Country with five or six hundred dollars, a good team and farm implements with the purpose of en- gaging in fruit culture should buy about forty acres. With the as- sistance of his family he can easily plant and cultivate eight or ten acres in sweet potatoes, and the other thirty acres in garden truck, berries or cotton. From these crops he can safely count on a return of from $600 to $800. As soon as he gathers his crop (October and November) he can plant a winter garden, from which he can fully meet his necessary living expenses during the winter months ; then, during January and February he should plant two to five acres in strawberries, and put out as much orchard as he desires, as the land will be in fine condition after one year’s cultivation in either cotton or sweet potatoes. For succeeding years, until his orchard comes into bearing, he can cultivate the space between the trees in corn, cotton and vegetables. His forty acres, well cultivated, will yield him an- nually from $2,500 to $5,000, and from $300 to $500 will pay for all extra labor required. This extra help will be needed only for a short time in gathering and marketing his crops. Nearly all the work can be done by himself and family. It is thought a yield of $500 to $800 per acre is a low estimate for a bearing pear orchard, and strawber- ries will yield from $300 to $500 per acre. Plums, grapes and some other fruits do as well or better than pears. The result of my investigations in the Coast Country as a whole — forming a composite picture, as it were, to meet all requirements, with such modifications as local conditions would necessitate, but ap- plicable to the larger portion of the region — convinced me that a home- seeker should at least have money enough to make a one-third pay- ment on his land, (it is usually sold on a cash payment of one-third or one-fourth, balance in five or seven years at seven or eight per cent.) buy necessary tools, implements and stock and put up his im- provements in the way of house and outbuildings. Lumber for ordi- nary purposes costs from $8 to $14 per thousand, and it is forty per cent, cheaper to build a house in the Coast Country than in the North, not only because the material is less expensive, but because it is not necessary, in a climate where one ton of coal or its equivalent in wood is ample for the winter, to construct such houses as the rigorous cli- mate of the North necessitates. Let us suppose that our home-seeker has purchased eighty acres at $10 per acre — $800. He has paid a little more than he might have got other land for, but he has wisely chosen with respect to drainage, soil, proximity to railroad and town. He paid one-third down, which was $275. His house cost him $200. In four or five years he will move this house back and you will find him living in a more impor- 68 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- tant mansion, but the present home is comfortable even if it is plain and unpretentious. He spent $225 for his team and necessary imple ments, and his other necessary expenses are $150. Now our home-seeker is, ready to begin the real work for which he came. It don’t matter much what the season when he arrived, for he can go right to work putting in a crop. But the imaginary set- tler of modest means whom we have in mind reached his land about November 1st, and immediately after making his improvements he commenced breaking the sod In fact he hadn’t waited to make his improvements before putting in some vegetables, ’winter cabbage, etc., which he could sell at high prices at the North, March 1st In the middle of January he was planting snap beans, and between the first and fifteenth of February he got in his crop. His spring vegeta- bles he got out about the first of March, planting cucumbers, snap beans, tomatoes, radishes, etc., which he began to ship the last of April. Between the first and tenth of March he planted his corn and oats. Our new settler divided his place pretty equitably according to his needs, for he put in twenty acres of cotton, twenty acres of corn, five in sorghum and five in oats, three in vegetables and the balance in pasture and meadow. Beginning upon some such general plan as this our settler would pay out the second or third year and would open an account at the bank besides. And talking about banks reminds us of a point worth mentioning. The new settler must not depend upon loans from the banks. He won’t get them. The exemption laws of Texas are so liberal that the banks for their own protection and as a matter of common prudence dare not loan heavily upon this class of security. For this reason the farmers of Texas are perhaps the most debt-free and independent in the world, and the liberal spirit in which these laws were framed has been a blessing to the commonwealth. Thus the property exempt from forced sale is as follows: 1. The homestead of the family, not to exceed 200 acres, togeth- er with improvements. 2. All household and kitchen furniture. 3. Any lot or lots in the cemetery held for the purposes of se- pulture. 4. All implements of husbandry 5. All tools, apparatus and books belonging to any trade or p^ fession. 6. The family library and all family portraits and pictures. 7. Five milch cows and their calves. 8. Two yoke of work oxen with necessary yokes and chains. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 69 Orchard Scene near Victoria. 70 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 9. Two horses and one wagon. 10. One carriage or buggy 11. One gun. 12. Twenty hogs. 13. Twenty head of sheep 14. All saddles, bridles and harness for the use of the family. 15. All provision and forage on hand for home consumption. 16. All current wages for personal services. Heretofore reference has been made in a general way to the soil of the coast region — the black waxy or hog wallow, and the various sandy soils, light and dark. It is very necessary that the new settler should examine these soils for himself and select such an one as is adapted 1 to the purposes he designs to put it to. The sandy soils be- come more general as one goes south from Houston and back from the Gulf coast. The special adaptability of each variety of soil being well known, the settler will have no difficulty in informing himself should his own experience be insufficient, but for purposes of guidance we introduce the analysis of the soils of the State, applying as it does to the Coast Country, given bv the State Commissioner of Agriculture in his annual report for 1894. He says: “Texas justly lays claim to greater variety and richness of soil than any State in the Union. The black waxy, black sandy, blacK pebbly, hog wallow, gray sandy, red sandy, sandy loam and alluvial soils are each to be found in the State, the majority of them in great- er or less quantities in each section. About the best evidence of the richness and fertility of these various soils that can be offered is the fact that commercial fertilizers, now so common in the older States, and constituting as much a fixed charge on the agricultural interests of those sections as the seed necessary to plant the ground, are not used at all in Texas. Another fact worthy of mention in this connec- tion is that there are thousands of acres in cultivation in this State that have been cultivated continuously for more than thirty years which now yield as much per acre as they did when first planted. The principal soils of Texas are the black waxy, black sandy and al- luvial lands of the river bottoms. The other varieties are minor divis- ions, and for the purpose of this report a brief description of these only will be given. “Black waxy soil. — The black waxy soil, so called from its color and adhesive qualities, is the richest and most durable of the soils of the State. It constitutes a large percentage of the prairie region, and is better adapted to the growth of grain crops than other soils of the State. It varies in depth from twelve inches to many feet, the aver- age depth being about eighteen inches, and is not appreciably affected by the washing rains so injurious to looser soils. THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 7 1 One of the largest bodies of upland black prairie in the United States extends from Lamar County on the Red River, southwest in an irregular manner to a point south of San Antonio, in Bexar Coun- ty, with a width of 140 miles on the north end, 100 in the middle, and about 60 on the south end, and embracing twenty-three and parts of twenty-six counties. “Black sandy soil. — This soil covers a very large area of the State, and is very productive and easily cultivated. It is highly es- teemed for gardening purposes and fruit growing. It is very loose, and requires care and attention to prevent deterioration from washing away of the surface. Portions of the timber region, counties border- ing on the timber belt of East Texas, and also the Cross Timbers, contain more or less sandy land. “The alluvial soils of the river bottoms vary in quality according to the territory drained by the streams on which they are located. River soils east of the Brazos River partake more of the waxy char- acter and are stiff er than those on the Brazos and streams westward that drain the sandy lands of the northwest. The Brazos River bot- tom is regarded as the most valuable in the State, on account of its fertility and comparative immunity from overflows. The lower Bra- zos is in the heart of the sugar growing belt, and its bottom lands in that section are considered equal to the best in the sugar producing region of Louisiana.” In the settlement of remote regions it was deemed expedient to form colonies for mutual protection or to secure social environments not otherwise possible. It is needless to say this is not necessary in the Coast Country of Texas, where settlement has existed in concrete form for sixty or seventy years, and where every desirable adjunct of civilization is to be found. Yet colonies have their advantages even here, as they bring old neighbors or people with common ties of blood or purpose together and enable them to act in harmony in things that pertain to their welfare. Mr. Gibbs, of the Land Department of the Southern Pacific, at San Antonio, who will always be glad to furnish the prospective set- tler with any information desired, has happily summarized the utili- tarian advantages of colonies as follows: “1. A colony or organization can select one person to correspond with us respecting purchase of lands, and can secure tracts of lands adjoining each other, or come to Texas in person and make proper se- lections after examination of the country. The agent can afford to make a reasonable concession on the price of land when sold in large bodies. “2. The agent of the colony can arrange for the comforts of the 7 2 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. colonists en route, personally attend to procuring supplies, look after personal effects and see that everybody is properly ticketed when changing from one transportation line to another. When a colony com- prises forty or fifty, arrangements can be made to come through to their destination from any part of the United States without changing cars. “3. Colonies can buy, through their agent, lumber and supplies in the principal markets in the State, and have them shipped to the nearest rail Cotton Trains at Houston. road station at car load rates. ‘ ‘ 4. Colonies can purchase horses cattle and other stock in droves at the lowest rates. They can aid each Main Street from Capitol Hill, Houston. Other materiallv at the start by combined labor in building, fencing, exchanging of farm stock, and joint labor in saving a crop. “5. They can form school communities, and receiveat once the benefits of the public school fund; employ a resident physician; build a church, and secure a pastor of such religious faith as suits them. “6. They will have a society of their own, and be the nucleus of population that will flock to them to enjoy the advantages they possess.” And in fuller explanation of the reference made above to the school facilities to be enjoyed, it is well to remember that no State in the Union and no country in the world has so magnificently endowed her public free schools as Texas. The fathers of the State dedicated fifty million acres of land to education ; of these 17,712 acres were THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. 73 given to each county, and are controlled by the counties; the remain- der is controlled by the State. The permanent school fund now con- sists of interest-bearing securities, bonds and land notes amounting to $17,000,000. Beside the interest on this amount, one-third of the gen- eral revenue and a poll tax of $>i are appropriated for school purposes. Of the original land set apart, there now remains about twenty-eight million acres, which is held at from $2 to $5 per acre. Before many years the interest on the purchase money of school lands will be suffi- cient to maintain the public schools without taxation. The present apportionment allows about eight dollars per annum for each child of school age in the State. In this brief review of the advantages of the Coast Country — or rather of its capabilities — necessarily condensed to come within the limits of this pamphlet, the writer has sought to be honest with the prospective settler, with the region described, and with himself. Mis- representation would only do injury, and wilful exaggeration or dis- tortion of facts would neither be profitable nor judicious. He believes that every statement made can be amply verified, not in isolated cases, but in many instances. In fact the exceptional cases have not been sought as illustrations. The purpose has uniformly been to get the average results. The accomplishments of nations are not meas- ured by the achievements of individuals — of geniuses of phenomenal sagacity, or skill, or discernment — but by the progress of the people as a whole. So it is equally true that we should not gauge the possi- bilities of a region by what a few have found attainable, but by the combined results of the many working with equal diligence and intel- ligence. That has been the purpose of the writer, and yet he has given recognition and weight to the fact that what one ma.y accom- plish by superior methods of cultivation is within the grasp of all, and that the pioneer, experimenting on certain lines and demonstrating the abundant success and profitableness of his theories, opens to all the opportunity for like achievement. As the facts here presented have been in course of preparation for the printer the snows of late November have been falling all over the great region north of the Ohio and westward over the vast level prairies of the Dakotas and beyond. The brief summer has ended. Even the birds that gave it cheer have fled to more congenial climes. The shivering cattle huddle behind the stacks that give them suste- nance or within the confines of the sheds that shelter them from the biting wind. The farmer, with muffled ears and hands, goes stiffly about his duties and then retreats to the warmth of the house to stamp the encumbering snow from his feet and seek comfort by the fire in enforced idleness. The soil — it matters not what qualities of latent 74 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS- fertility it may possess — is locked in the embrace of the frost king, and lies chill and frozen beneath its coverlet of snow. In the fires that for six months must be so persistently fed, in the heat generating foods that load the table, and in the weight of woolens that clothe the body to give defiance to the cold, is consumed the substance of the farmer’s labors — of springtime sovfing and of autumn harvest. To the chill discomfort of nature is added the insidious foe that strikes at every weak spot in the armor of the system with the dagger of disease — of pneumonia and pleurisy and rheumatism and catarrh and consumption in the well-to-do, who go from the glow of the fireside into the biting breath of the snow-laden air ; and of diphtheria, scar- let fever and typhoid that slay the children of the poor huddled in illy ventilated cottages or cabins where the warmth of the body is ex- pected to enforce and supplement the insufficient heat of the smolder- ing fire. It is the period of enforced idleness, of industrial death, when the farmer’s energy finds itself fettered and when the inroads of necessity make sad havoc with the meager accumulations of capi- tal stored up during brief periods of garnering. And while this is true of the vast area above the snow line of the continent, how different is the picture when we turn to the Coast Country of Texas. 1 see it now with the roses clambering in pink and yellow mists over the embowered cottages. Contented women are sewing upon the wide balconies in the sunshine that sifts like a golden dew through the fretwork of creeping vines that spread them- selves on trellised porticos. The cattle graze in gentle content and fatness upon the nutritious grass waving knee high in lush pastures. The robin lifts its song to drown the mocking bird The trees are in the period of their leafage yet and the yellow disk of the orange glow's in its emerald setting of green. The farmer is busy in his fields and 1 hear the familiar summons that guides his horses as they follow the furrow where he is planting, perhaps, the third crop within the twelve month Presently the oats or rye or barley that he sows shall put forth its tender blades, and before the Christmas slaughter of the wattled bird, will wave in beauty over the field it hides And just be- . yond, the gardener, with loving care, is confiding to the earth the 1 vegetables, tender things of summer growth to the northward, but here the products of the so-called winter time. Men go about their duties care free, for full granaries and plenty give content. The days have a hazy mellowness — warmth enough to bring comfort and cool enough to fill the blood with the impulse that we call energy. At night one draws the blanket close and sleep comes with the ozone of the near-by salt gulf to renew the strength of brain and sinew. The days of December, January and THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS 75 Three Year Old Pear Orchard Near Victoria. 76 THE COAST COUNTRY OF TEXAS. February drift by with perhaps an occasional frost to put a sauce upon the salad of such living, but no truant month slips past without seeing some crop confided to the ground or some harvest gathered to add to the abundant store that fills the land with plenty No time Comes when the farmer, looking upon a frozen landscape, can sigh to feel that, with the willingness and purpose to work, he is perforce forbid- den to plant or reap. The perplexities that touch the hair with silver threads and early whiteness where the struggle is sharp, and where the spirit of affection is crucified for fear the loved ones shall suffer and be in need, comes not here to break the spirit, for want is a thing unknown and poverty is a spectre that knocks at no farm door. No wonder, then, that men live long and women grow old gracefully, and children show, in lusty limb and ruddy cheek and sparkling eye, the satisfaction of their lives, the content and prosperous abundance that they have inherited — not without work, mind you, but as the affluent reward of industry And though we were reared in latitudes where winter had its fullest sway, and though close to our hearts lie the love of the sports it brought about the glowing hearths of comfort in homes of plenty and of joy, yet infinitely more restful and more inspiring is the picture of that land that throws its arm about the waters of the wide, blue gulf and wooes alike the tempering breeze of summer and the balmv, perfume-laden airs and buds that make a mockery of winter in this fair coast land. ) !f 'f pattment Lind# tlu» control of Mr. C. are;.jiising gr.cgt efftt/ts to further the settlemem of this part of the statefao I Texas in geiic-ral. . ; j • ;~P iiiruad companies are very important fac .s in developing a count; . and the department above referred |tb entitled to much credit assisting- so materially in this matter /an.! these companies have retofore been and are now amongst the foremast 'in whatever enter; -rises t.ha.t will -ultimately redound to. the gene advancement of the State of Texas. ssSKThese lands are in close proximity to market, and of all varieties^; all of them suitable for cultivation and some of them timber lands' Ip^S The railroad companies are affording every facility .of comfortaL blejand low. rates of passage to emigrants, by means of which they, can p ea ch these, lands.- id . k 1 hese lands are ottered at prices ranging from £3 to $5 per acre/ oiterfifth cash and the balance in -four equal- annual payments , at six per 'cent., interest. Accommodating agents in the persons of A B. Doucette, Beaumont, and W C. Moore, at Liberty, who also, has an / office in the Kiam Building, Houston, are always ready to shovvrlands to anyone desiring to inspect them These lands are very cheap and terms liberal, and the opportunity to secure them is not likely to re.-,: main open long, For further particulars apply to C. C. GIBBS, Land Commissioner, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS. h 24548