DC 
 
 27 
 
 .W478 
 
 1855 
 
DUKE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 
 LIBRARY 
 

 t 
 
 
 
 *'•' A», 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2018 with funding from 
 Duke University Libraries 
 
 J 
 
 ~m 
 
 https://archive.org/details/diaryofhonmisseg01west 
 
D I AE Y 
 
 OF THE 
 
 IIOnble miss egerton, 
 
 AFTERWARDS 
 
 MARCHIONESS OF WESTMINSTER, 
 
 DUKING THE YEARS 1787 AND 1788 : 
 
 GIVING AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF A TOUR IN FRANCE AND THE 
 NORTH OF ITALY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HENRY MASSEY, 103. PARK STREET, 
 
 GROSVENOR SQUARE. 
 
 1855. 
 
DIARY 
 
 
 OF THE 
 
 HONBi® MISS EGERTON. 
 
 HATFIELD. 
 
 The house is entered by a large flight of steps, 
 which lead into a magnificent, large, antique 
 hall, on each side of which is a staircase of wood. 
 To the east there is a suite of summer apart¬ 
 ments, a dining-room, 52 by 28, a breakfast- 
 room, drawing-room, bedchamber, dressing- 
 rooms, and sitting-rooms for Lord and Lady 
 Salisbury. The windows are low, and look into 
 the park. The first room on the right hand of 
 the staircase is a fine ball-room, 60 by 28, and 21 
 in height. The chimney-piece is of large dimen¬ 
 sions, and a beautiful inlaid marble table stood 
 in a bow window in the middle of the room. 
 Adjoining to the ball-room is an immense long 
 gallery, wainscoted, and an organ in the centre. 
 
2 
 
 To the left is a billiard-room, and a state bed¬ 
 chamber and dressing-room. 
 
 On returning into the gallery, at the lower 
 end to the left is a chapel, Avith a painted 
 Avindow. At the bottom of the gallery is a noble 
 library, and on the right hand a winter dining¬ 
 room. The greenhouse plants are placed in a sort 
 of flagged gallery, the length of the house on 
 the ground floor, enclosed with glass Avindows. 
 
 We saw the hothouses, and walked through a 
 fine park, well Avooded, and mostly planted in 
 avenues, to a gothic toAver, neatly fitted up, on 
 each side of which were two long walls, ter¬ 
 minated by a smaller tower at each end, and 
 turreted. Through the middle tower we went 
 on a terrace, which commanded a pretty and 
 extensive \dew. A piece of water in the bottom 
 divides the terraces and pleasure grounds from 
 the kitchen garden, at which the gardener never 
 arrives Avithout crossing the water. 
 
 We then went to 
 
 BROCKET HALL, 
 
 Belonging to Lord Melbourne, the approach to 
 Avhich is through a gateway with lodges. A 
 
3 
 
 piece of water runs through the pleasure 
 grounds, and falls in a cascade below a bridge, 
 over which the road is taken. The house is 
 modern, and elegantly fitted up. The staircase 
 is at the back of the entrance-hall, and on the 
 right of the hall is a dining-room ; then a break¬ 
 fast-room ; then the state dressing-room and bed¬ 
 chamber, from whence a small anti-room leads 
 into Lord Melbourne’s dressing-room, and his 
 library, adjoining to which is the drawing-room, 
 58 by 27, hung with figured crimson satin. 
 The ceiling is richly painted, and the marble 
 chimney-piece enriched with figures. At one 
 end of the room is a large picture of George IV. 
 as Prince of Wales, holding his horse, by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds. A second drawing-room 
 completes the principal story, and opens into 
 the entrance-hall, opposite to the dining-room. 
 
 The first floor consists of bedchambers and 
 dressing-rooms only. We afterwards saw the 
 dairy, the entrance to which is semicircular, and 
 a niche containing a figure on each side the 
 door, which opens into an oval dairy, with ten 
 niches fitted up with shelves, on which were 
 placed a variety of valuable china. There were 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 marble slabs round tbe room, and a large one in 
 tlie centre ; and a fine marble basin stood in a 
 recess opposite the door, in which were gold and 
 silver fish ; and fresh water was conveyed to 
 them by a pipe. The building is white, and the 
 ground in front of it ornamented with beds of 
 flowers. The pleasure grounds are extremely 
 pretty, with shrubs and fine old trees dispersed 
 about them, which, together with the lawn and 
 water, form a very delightful landscape. 
 
 We then proceeded through the village of 
 Welwyn to Stevenage. The country hilly, but 
 extremely fertile and woody. The hill at 
 Baldock commands a pretty view of the village, 
 surrounded with wood. We went through 
 Biggleswade, Eaton, Buckden, Alconbury Hill, 
 and Wansford to 
 
 BURLEIGH, 
 
 Lord Exeter’s. The approach is extremely 
 handsome, through a weU-wooded park, in 
 which there is a fine piece of water and a 
 bridge, over which the road conducts to the 
 house. It is a beautiful and splendid mansion 
 
5 
 
 of the age of Queen Elizabeth, appearing by 
 degrees from a fine wood. The entrance is 
 marble, and to the left a hall; and then a stone 
 staircase, which, upon ascending, conducts to the 
 left to a blue dressing-room filled with pictures, 
 and then to the chapel, which consists of two 
 rooms, separated by large glass windows, and a 
 door in the centre, one part for servants, and 
 the other for company. The chapel contained 
 seven large pictures, three on each side, and one 
 over the altar. To the right of the staircase 
 is a biUiard-room, and out of that a ball-room, 
 the sides and ceiling of which, the former 
 by Laguerre, the latter by Varls or Vario. It 
 is 50 feet long. Adjoining to that is the 
 drawing-room; then a bedchamber with two 
 dressing-rooms, and a closet. The bed was 
 embroidered on black satin, and lined with 
 yellow, and the furniture also yellow. To the 
 right of that room are Queen Elizabeth’s apart¬ 
 ments. The bed and furniture of which are 
 velvet worked on gold tissue. Then Lord 
 Exeter’s bedchamber and dressing-room, an 
 anti-room and closet, which led to three un- 
 
 D 3 
 
6 
 
 finished rooms, with beautiful chimney-pieces, 
 and a fourth, called heaven, which completed 
 that floor to the staircase again. 
 
 The ground floor consists of a dining-room, 
 opposite the staircase, a music-room with an 
 organ in it, a drawing-room, a smaller drawing¬ 
 room ; a dressing-room and closet, through which 
 was a bedchamber—dressing-room, and closet 
 hung with tapestry, the bed of crimson velvet; 
 and then a common dressing-room and library. 
 We went through an inner court, and a large 
 haU to the greenhouse, which is a long building 
 with gothic windows, and in front of it a large 
 basin containing gold and silver fish. From 
 thence to the hothouses and pleasure grounds, 
 which are well kept, and the latter commanding 
 beautiful views of the park, water, the town of 
 Stamford, and other objects. There are several 
 ornamental buildings in the plantations, corre¬ 
 sponding with the architecture of the house, 
 and all of a very princely description. The 
 rooms in the house are fiUed wfith valuable 
 china and pictures. Mr. Brown laid out the 
 grounds. The kitchen-garden is above a mile 
 from the house, but is very large; and every- 
 
7 
 
 thing about the place is handsome and mag¬ 
 nificent. 
 
 We went from thence to Coltsworth, and 
 across the country to see 
 
 BELVOm CASTLE, 
 
 The Duke of Rutland’s, the situation of which is 
 very commanding, upon a high hill surrounded 
 with wood, and overlooking an immense district. 
 It was much out of repair, and has since been 
 renewed, and much added to and embellished. 
 
 We afterwards proceeded by Grantham, New¬ 
 ark, and Ollerton, to 
 
 THORESBY, 
 
 The approach to which is very magnificent 
 through a mile and a quarter of forest, and 
 then a long avenue, at the end of which appears 
 the house ; the road turns from the avenue into 
 a beautiful park fiUed with fine oaks. There is 
 a large sheet of water, with vessels upon, it and 
 rising ground on aU sides, on the top of which 
 are large clumps of trees. 
 
 The house was rebuilt by Carr of York. To 
 
 B 4 
 
8 
 
 the left of the entrance, in the basement story, is 
 a dressing-room; to the right the common 
 drawing-room; then the dining-room, which is 
 hexagon, and a breakfast-room. On descending 
 a few steps we came to the greenhouse. 
 
 The rooms to the right hand, on the top of 
 the staircase, are a dressing-room and bedcham¬ 
 ber ; then, crossing a staircase, another dressing- 
 room and bedchamber, which join to the best 
 dining-room; and then a drawing-room, a library, 
 and a ball-room, 65 by 29. 
 
 The gardens, hothouses, and vineries, are very 
 extensive and fine. 
 
 We next went to 
 
 CLUMBER, 
 
 The Duke of Newcastle’s. The park is extensive, 
 and contains a piece of water, and a number of 
 young plantations. The garden is also very 
 large. The entrance to the house is circular; 
 and to the right is a common drawing-room; then 
 again to the right, the best drawing-room, 42 
 by 27, containing three very fine looking-glasses. 
 To the left of the common drawing-room is the 
 common dining-room. Through a small passage 
 
9 
 
 is a very fine library, and from that an anti¬ 
 room. Another small passage leads into the 
 duke’s dressing-roW, and then his bedchamber. 
 Opposite the door of the principal entrance is a 
 smokinof-room, and to the left of the entrance a 
 breakfast-room, and through it the best dining¬ 
 room, 54 by 30, with a fine picture by Suyders 
 in it. A back staircase leads into a chapel with 
 four painted windows. 
 
 From Clumber we went to 
 
 WELBECK, 
 
 The Duke of Portland’s. The park is fine, and 
 contains an immense number of old oaks. The 
 house is inferior to many others : the front 
 door opening directly at the bottom of the 
 staircase, to the right of which, on the first 
 landing, is a fine old Gothic hall, which leads to 
 a suite of bedchambers and dressing-rooms; and 
 to the left of the hall, across a passage, is a 
 chapel. The rest of the rooms are good, but 
 not described. The garden is very extensive 
 and good. 
 
 We proceeded to Worksop, and afterwards to 
 see 
 
10 
 
 WORKSOP MANOR HOUSE, 
 
 The Duke of Norfolk’s. The park is entered 
 from Worksop town by a pair of gates, mth a 
 lodge on one side about a mile from the house; 
 and is extremely beautiful, from the shape of the 
 ground and extent of the prospect. The house 
 has been partly rebuilt by Paine the architect, 
 the former house having been burnt down. A 
 gateway leads into an inner court, round which 
 are the stables, which are divided from the front 
 of the house by a handsome screen, through 
 which the approach leads by a centre arch. 
 The front of the house is of immense extent, 
 and contains a suite of rooms, not particularised; 
 but one contained the bed in which George III. 
 was born. The staircase is stone, and the walls 
 painted in bas-relief. The cedars in the pleasure 
 ground are extremely fine, and all the ever¬ 
 greens. 
 
 ROCHE ABBEY. 
 
 We travelled on through a rich and well- 
 wooded country, past Sandby Park, Lord Scar¬ 
 borough’s, and Mr. Knight’s house and grounds; 
 
11 
 
 and at the end of about twelve miles arrived at 
 Roche Abbey, belonging also to Lord Scar¬ 
 borough. 
 
 We walked through a romantic wood, with a 
 stream of water winding between two hills, and 
 overhanging rock; and on the opening of the 
 wood the abbey presented itself quite in ruins. 
 There are several remains of Gothic windows, 
 and outward walls. The scenery is extremely 
 picturesque and beautiful. 
 
 We next went to 
 
 BOLSOVER CASTLE, 
 
 The Duke of Portland’s. It is situated on a high 
 hill, commanding an almost unlimited prospect, 
 and surrounded by a battery. In one part of 
 the building there are several rooms in good pre¬ 
 servation. The rest is in ruins, but the walls 
 show great magnificence and extent. 
 
 From thence we went to 
 
 HARDWICKE, 
 
 Belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, between 
 which and Chatsworth Mary Queen of Scots 
 
12 
 
 divided a long confinement. It is situated on a 
 high hill, covered with wood, and a fine piece of 
 water in the bottom. The entrance is through 
 a gateway into a court opposite the house, at 
 the lower part of which is a colonnade. A fine 
 hall conducts to several large and good rooms, 
 particularly a fine state apartment fitted up for 
 the reception of Mary. We were shown a bed 
 that she worked. The view from the leads 
 at the top of the house is ver);- extensive, and 
 commands several watchtowers. 
 
 We drove through the park to Chesterfield, 
 and from thence went to see 
 
 CHATSWORTH, 
 
 The Duke of Devonshire’s. The park is ex¬ 
 tremely well wooded, and the house situated in 
 a fine vale, built of stone, and the frames of the 
 windows gilt. The approach is through a court, 
 with a basin of clear water in the centre. 
 
 To the right of the entrance is a hall painted 
 by Renegal, and at the upper end a staircase. A 
 long gallery leads to a chapel; and to the right 
 of the stairs are the music-room, drawing-room. 
 
13 
 
 and dining-room. The latter leads to a gallery, 
 much painted and ornamented; and then to a 
 bedchamber between two dressing-rooms, and a 
 drawing-room, in which stood the chairs which 
 George III. and Queen Charlotte sat in, the day 
 they were crowned ; adjoining to it is a large 
 dining-room, from the upper end of which is 
 seen a beautiful cascade ; and to the left is a 
 bedchamber, with a dressing-room on each side. 
 The next are three apartments which Mary 
 Queen of Scots occupied when at Chatsworth. 
 The bed she slept in was crimson velvet, richly 
 embroidered with gold, and a large plume of 
 crimson and white feathers at each corner. 
 Below stairs are common living-rooms for 
 morning. 
 
 The grounds are very extensive and beautiful. 
 The river Derwent runs through a part of them, 
 and under a bridge, which is often seen to great 
 advantage. There are several ornamental build¬ 
 ings in the wood, and the finest black spruce- 
 trees that can be seen, which, combined with the 
 cascades and water-works, and views of the dis¬ 
 tant village, form a varied and very interesting 
 
 scene. 
 
14 
 
 The road to Disley is extremely picturesque 
 through the vales of Middleton and Glossop, and 
 occasionally confined between immense rocks, 
 large pieces of which were projecting and partly 
 overgrown with shrubs, which gave a very ro¬ 
 mantic appearance. 
 
 We reached Heaton House that night, June 
 13th, 1787. 
 
 Friday^ August lOth —Lord and Lady Stam¬ 
 ford left us. Mamma and I paid morning visits, 
 and fetched Miss Clayton from Manchester. Sir 
 Peter Warburton, Mr. Arden, and Mr. Heron 
 came in the evening. 
 
 Saturday^ 11th .—Miss Clayton and her brother. 
 Sir Peter Warburton, and Mr. Heron left us. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Egerton, and Miss Charlotte Ar- 
 mytage and Mr. Armytage, Mr. and Mrs. Wilson, 
 and Mr. Lawson came, and there was a large 
 musical party to dinner and company in the 
 evening. 
 
 Sunday., Vlth .—We attended church morning 
 and evening, and aU our guests left us. Grand¬ 
 mamma Egerton came in the evening, and papa 
 went to Royton to attend Mr. Pickford on the 
 moors the following day. 
 
15 
 
 Monday^ l^th. — Papa returned at night. 
 
 Tuesday^ 14^/i. — Grandmamma Assheton 
 passed the day with us. 
 
 Wednesday^ \hth. — Miss Asshetons called to 
 take leave of us. Papa and I walked to Bent. 
 Mr. Foxley dined with us. 
 
 Thursday^ 16^A. —At home, making arrange¬ 
 ments for our departure. 
 
 Friday^ 17 th. — The rain detained us at Heaton 
 till twelve o’clock, when we took leave of both 
 my grandmammas, and set out with our o-wn 
 horses on our long intended tour on the continent. 
 We reached Congleton that night. 
 
 Saturday^ \^th. — We breakfasted at New¬ 
 castle, and proceeded to Stone, from whence we 
 went to Lord Curzon’s at Hagley, and took a 
 walk round the plantations in the evening. 
 
 Sunday^ —Went to church in the morn¬ 
 ing, and set out directly after for Lichfield. We 
 called upon Mrs. Falconer, who gave us luncheon, 
 and then proceeded through Coleshill to Meriden, 
 where we slept. 
 
 Monday^ 20#A. — We went through Coventry 
 to Dunchurch, where we breakfasted, and then 
 
16 
 
 through Daventry to Towcester, where we dined, 
 and slept at Stony Stratford. 
 
 Tuesday^ 215?. —Went through Brickhill, and 
 joined the Derby road at Hockley, breakfasted 
 at Dunstable, dined at St. Albans, and arrived 
 in London at the Royal Hotel in Pall Mall, be¬ 
 tween seven and eight o’clock. 
 
 My father and mother attended the levee and 
 the drawing-room, to take leave of the royal 
 family previous to going abroad, and fetched 
 my brother for a few days from school; and on 
 
 Thursday^ 2>0th. — We left London about one 
 o’clock and went with our own horses to Sutton, 
 where we dined, and afterwards to Reigate, where 
 we slept. 
 
 Friday^ 31s?_Reigate is prettily situated in 
 
 a valley. We left it early, and went through 
 Crawley to Uckfield, where we breakfasted, and 
 afterwards proceeded to Brighton. In the even¬ 
 ing we took a walk about the town and upon the 
 Steyne, where there is a band of music, and where 
 company generally resort. There is a fine ball¬ 
 room, 90x40 and 36 in height, and a tea-room 
 and card-room. My father went to the play. 
 
 Saturday^ Sept. Is?. — The tide coming in. 
 
17 
 
 enabled the ship we were to cross the water in 
 to reach the shore; and our carriage, after being 
 taken to pieces and inspected by the custom¬ 
 house officers, as well as our luggage, were safely 
 put on board. The packet was about 100 tons, 
 called the Prince of Wales, and commanded by 
 a Captain Burton. My father and I walked a 
 great deal about the town and place. About 
 seven in the evening we went to the beach, from 
 whence we were carried by men through the 
 water to the boat, which conveyed us to the 
 ship. We were obliged to wait for more pas¬ 
 sengers till nine o’clock, when we set sail with a 
 fair wind, and were off Dieppe about eight in the 
 morning ; but the tide being out prevented the 
 ship going into harbour, and we were obliged to 
 have recourse to boats, which detained us till 
 ten, when we landed safely on the French coast, 
 and were much struck with the change in the 
 appearance of everything, but with nothing 
 more than the dress of the women. They wear 
 extremely short petticoats with jackets over them, 
 and small white caps, which form a strong con¬ 
 trast to their very brown complexions. They 
 are in general broad-set, but active and cheerful. 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 They chiefly assisted in disembarking our luggage 
 and carrying it to the inn. We breakfasted 
 about eleven, on cofiee and bread, the butter 
 being too bad to eat, and then took a short re¬ 
 pose. After a very good dinner, we took a walk 
 about the town, which is very regular ; the 
 houses well built of brick, the streets wide and 
 clean. We went into the Mall, which was full 
 of company, all without hats: they afterwards 
 resorted to the theatre. Being tired with our 
 voyage, we retired early to bed. 
 
 Monday^ Srd. — After breakfast we went to 
 see the ivory manufactory, and purchased a few 
 toothpick cases and snufi‘-boxes, and then com¬ 
 menced our journey in a coach with six horses 
 and two postillions, the harness all of cord, and 
 the drivers in immense boots, which they imme¬ 
 diately disencumber themselves of on arriving at 
 the end of their post. Our road lay through a 
 pleasant country by Osmonville, Tortes, and 
 Cambres, to Rouen ; the people were in the 
 midst of their harvest, in the labour of which 
 the women seemed to take their full share ; and 
 the fields were covered with poultry—turkeys as 
 well as fowls,' but chiefly black. The houses are 
 
19 
 
 particularly neat, and well thatched. The country 
 increases in beauty as you approach Rouen; the 
 hills are wooded, the valleys rich; and small neat 
 villages with towering steeples greatly vary and 
 enliven the landscape. Rouen is situated on the 
 river Seine, and, excepting on that side, is sur¬ 
 rounded with hills. The entrance is by an ave¬ 
 nue, but the streets are intolerably narrow and 
 dirty; the broadest is the Rue des Carmes, in 
 which was our hotel, and in that two carriages 
 have a difficulty in passing. The quay is very 
 line, and the river broad and covered -with ves¬ 
 sels. We arrived about six o’clock, dined, and 
 went early to bed, but were much annoyed with 
 bugs. 
 
 Tuesday^ Ath .—We had a very good breakfast, 
 with sweet fresh butter, and went afterwards to 
 see the cotton manufactory, which is very in¬ 
 ferior to that in England. We also went over 
 the curious bridge of boats, which rises and falls 
 with the tide, and opens for the convenience of 
 large vessels to pass through it ; then to the 
 cathedral, which is said to be the finest Gothic 
 building in France. It is highly enriched and 
 very beautiful. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 At half-past five in the evening we went to 
 the theatre and saw “ Le Mariage secret,” et 
 “ L’Amant jaloux,” very well acted; it was over 
 by nine o’clock. 
 
 Wednesday^ hth. — On this day we saw the 
 Abbaye de St. Antoine, another fine Gothic 
 building, in which we heard high mass per¬ 
 formed, and saw two women confessing; and the 
 parliament house, which is spacious, and with a 
 remarkable roof in the room where the members 
 sit. 
 
 After seeing the parliament house at Kouen, 
 we went {i. e. my father, and mother, and myself) 
 to the Place de Vaux, where the Maid of Orleans 
 was burnt as a witch. The French have erected 
 a statue to her .memory in the centre, where 
 there is likewise a public fountain. 
 
 We saw the fine basso-relievo in marble of the 
 interview between Henry VIII. and Francis I., 
 on the outside of the house belonging to the 
 Procureur-g4n4ral; likewise the old castle, which 
 is supposed to have been built in Henry V.’s 
 time, the custom-house, and exchange, which are 
 all fine buildings. 
 
 Thursday^ ^th. — We left Rouen about eight 
 
21 
 
 o’clock, and travelled through a sandy, but fine 
 country, to Moulineaux, Bourgtheronde, Brionne, 
 Marche N euve, and L’Hotellerie, to Lisieux, where 
 we arrived about five. The country was filled 
 with all sorts of grain, and the day had been 
 uncommonly hot and parching. On ascending 
 a hill out of the village of Moulineaux, an ex¬ 
 tended and very rich view is presented before 
 you of the river Seine, which is there very broad, 
 winding along its fertile banks. The Convent 
 du Bee is beautifully situated near Brionne, on 
 the side of a hill covered with wood. Lisieux is 
 delightfully situated upon sloping banks with 
 fine springs of water, and the market is well 
 supplied. 
 
 Friday^ 1th .— We started again at eight 
 o’clock, and found excellent roads through St. 
 Aubin and Moux to Caen, where we arrived be¬ 
 tween twelve and one o’clock. The country was 
 very open and the heat excessive. Caen is a 
 large town, the capital of Lower Normandy, 
 with streets wide and regular. After dinner we 
 walked to the promenade, on one side of which 
 was a stream of water, and on the other a fine 
 lawn with cattle grazing on it. 
 
 c 3 
 
22 
 
 Saturday^ 8 th. — Being the nativity of the 
 Vii'gin Mary, which is kept as a feast by the 
 Roman Catholics, we went to the Eglise de St. 
 Pierre, to hear high mass performed, which lasted 
 about three quarters of an hour. On our return 
 to the inn Lord Radnor called upon us, and a 
 M. Moysant, librarian to the university, who 
 lent us an account of Normandy, written by 
 Ducarel. After dinner we walked up to the 
 tower, where we found the people amusing them¬ 
 selves with different games. There is a space 
 on the ramparts from whence we had a full view 
 of the town. We drank tea with Lord Radnor. 
 Lady Radnor was attending a wedding some 
 way in the country. Mr. Sawbridge, who had 
 been some time ill at this place, died in the 
 night. 
 
 Sunday., 9 th. —We accompanied M. Moysant 
 to the convent of L’Abbaye aux Dames, where we 
 heard high mass again. It was founded by 
 Queen Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror : 
 her tomb is in the middle of the chapel, in the 
 shape of a coffin, with the ancient inscription still 
 perfect. The altar is much enriched. We saw 
 the nuns through a grating at the time of the 
 
23 
 
 sacrament being consecrated; but the curtains 
 were soon drawn again, which excluded them 
 from our view. 
 
 We afterwards went to the convent of L’Ab- 
 baye aux Hommes, built by William the Con¬ 
 queror, whose monument is entirely destroyed, 
 there being only a rim of marble with an in¬ 
 scription, round the place where he was buried. 
 One of the monks attended us round the con¬ 
 vent, which is of great extent and surrounded 
 with gardens extremely well kept ; he showed 
 us, amongst others, a very ancient room, for¬ 
 merly used as a hall of entertainment by William 
 the Conqueror. It was paved with bricks, on 
 each of which was either an ornament or the 
 arms of sOme great person. M. Moysant dined 
 with us at the inn, and afterwards took us to 
 hear vespers at L’Abbaye aux Hommes, it being 
 the eve of the day on which they celebrate the 
 death of their royal founder. The chapel and 
 priests were in mourning, the bell toUed fune¬ 
 really, and a temporary tomb was erected in the 
 middle of the chapel, splendidly illuminated; the 
 whole producing a solemn and imposing elFect. 
 We saw the library belonging to the university 
 
 c 4 
 
24 
 
 on our return, and M. Moysant drank tea with 
 us. After his departure my father read our own 
 service to us. 
 
 Monday^ 10^/t. — We pursued our journey 
 through Mondrainville, Maisoncelles Pellevis, 
 and Montaing, to Vire, which led through a 
 very rich and wooded country. Vire is prettily 
 situated, and the promenade commands a beau¬ 
 tiful view: we walked along a pretty road on the 
 side of a hill, opposite to a rock upon which are 
 the remains of an ancient castle. There are 
 several houses and water-mills in the valley, 
 which have a very romantic appearance. 
 
 Tuesday^ 11th .—We proceeded by Sourdeval, 
 Mortain le Rocher, Chevreville, and Lorreigne, to 
 Fougeres, through extensive forests. The road 
 was hilly and very rough, and Fougeres is very 
 ill paved, but a new entrance' is making from 
 Rennes, through an immense rock, which has 
 already occupied three years; and it is expected 
 to take two more before it is finished. We 
 walked after dinner to the promenade, from 
 whence there is an extensive view of a country 
 entirely covered with wood. 
 
 Wednesday^ I'^th _We left Fougeres at eight 
 
25 
 
 o’clock, and passed St. Jean de Cousnon, and 
 Lifre, to Rennes. The country continued much 
 wooded, and the roads very rough and bad. 
 We walked after dinner about the town, and 
 found the streets wide and regular, the Palais 
 du Parlement a fine large building, and the 
 square belonging to it handsome. We were 
 induced to see a combat des animaux in an 
 enclosed area, which was very unpleasant. 
 Dogs were turned in to attack in rotation a 
 wild boar, a bear, an ass, and a bull. The 
 fine cathedral had fallen in, and was repairing, 
 which prevented our seeing it in detail. We 
 walked through the gardens of the Bishop 
 of Rennes, and to the promenade, to the right 
 of which is a convent of Benedictine nuns, for 
 persons of rank and family. The lady abbess 
 is Mademoiselle Girac, sister to the Bishop of 
 Rennes. 
 
 Thursday^ l^th —We started at six this morn¬ 
 ing, having a long journey to make to Nantes, 
 where we arrived about nine at night. The 
 country appeared a continuation of forest, 
 partly wooded, and partly open and wild. 
 What grain there was was chiefly buckwheat. 
 
26 
 
 Friday^ lUh. — My father called on M. 
 Drouin after breakfast with a letter of recom¬ 
 mendation, and he returned the visit in the 
 evening with his son-in-law, M. Charles Bou- 
 teiller, who took us in their carriage to see a 
 monument erected to one of the ancient Dukes 
 of Bretagne, in the Eglise des Carmes, Nantes, 
 having been formerly the residence of the 
 Dukes of Bretagne. Upon the monument are 
 marble figures of the duke and his wife, with 
 other ornaments, and one at each corner ; and 
 upon the sides are smaller figures in bronze. 
 The whole is railed round, and the workmanship 
 is curious, having been completed 200 years. 
 We went also to the cathedral, which is an 
 ancient gothic building, but erected at different 
 periods, which spoils the effect. The body of 
 the church is a fine height, and the altar-piece 
 and chapel rich in ornament. On our return 
 to the inn Madame BouteiUer and her sister 
 Madame Limolan paid us a visit, and begged 
 we would attend them to a concert, which we 
 did ; it was for the benefit of two young ladies, 
 who played admirably upon the harp, the eldest. 
 Mademoiselle Caroline Descarsin, was thirteen 
 
27 
 
 years old, the youngest sister, Mademoiselle 
 Sophie, only eight. They were accompanied by 
 amateurs, who excelled on ditferent instruments. 
 The room was circular, and full of company. 
 The dress of the children rather surprised us, 
 having their hair powdered and dressed, and 
 tied across with a riband, wearing earrings and 
 handkerchiefs; and a great deal of perfume 
 prevailed. The concert was over, and we 
 returned to our inn at nine o’clock. 
 
 Saturday^ Ihth. —M. Charles Bouteiller took 
 us to the Chamhre des Comptes, which is a 
 magnificent building of stone. The entrance is 
 spacious, and the great staircase opposite the 
 door leads to a suite of fine apartments ; the 
 two principal ones are hung with beautiful 
 tapestry, and the large table for business is 
 covered with blue velvet, with a Jleur de lys 
 embroidered in gold at each corner. There are 
 several pictures of Henry IV., king of Navarre, 
 some in full length, standing, others on horse¬ 
 back. We went next to the Cour, where there 
 is a fine public walk, with a delightful prospect 
 at each end. We then alighted, and walked 
 through the tower where the Cardinal de Retz 
 
28 
 
 Avas confined, but at length made his escape by 
 ropes out of a window, and, threatening the 
 sentinel with death, was suficred to pass, for 
 which the soldier afterwards lost his life. We 
 then resumed our carriage, and drove to the 
 environs of the town, crossed five bridges upon 
 difierent branches of the Loire, which is very 
 broad close to the town, and contains an 
 immense number of ships. A part of the town 
 is built upon a wooded hill above the river, the 
 buildings of which being very handsome, pro¬ 
 duce a fine efiect. We went some way upon 
 the quay, and passed the new playhouse, which 
 is building to replace a very old one; to the Bois 
 de I’Anne, the owners of which, the Comte and 
 Comtesse de St. Perne, having given up one- 
 half to the public use. There are delightful 
 walks and drives cut through it, which com¬ 
 mand beautiful prospects of the Loire, and fine 
 buildings of Nantes. 
 
 After our morning excursion. Monsieur Charles 
 Bouteiller took us to dine with Monsieur and 
 Madame Drouin, and we were much pleased 
 with the harmony and afiection that appeared to 
 subsist amongst the family. Monsieur Drouin 
 
29 
 
 made it a condition with the gentlemen who 
 married his daughters, that they should con¬ 
 tinue to live with them ; the eldest married 
 Monsieur Charles Bouteiller’s eldest brother, the 
 second a Monsieur Limolan, and the third 
 Monsieur Charles Bouteiller. After dinner we 
 walked in their garden, which is prettily laid 
 out, and commanding agreeable prospects, the 
 Bois de I’Anne to the right, and several gentle¬ 
 men’s seats pleasantly situated to the left. 
 About half-past five the gentlemen escorted us 
 to the play, at which were acted “ Le Muet,” 
 et “ L’Epreuve ViUageoise!” 
 
 Sunday^ —My father read the service of 
 the day to us, and about half-past one we went 
 again to dine with Monsieur Drouin, where we 
 met Madame and Mademoiselle Babut, Monsieur 
 Labouchere, Monsieur Bradelet, a commissaire. 
 Monsieur Tascet, and others. Their style of 
 living is very hospitable and magnificent. In 
 the evening Monsieur et les Demoiselles Descar- 
 sins came and played a great deal on the harp. 
 After supper, and having passed a very agree¬ 
 able da}^, we returned to our hotel. It rained 
 very hard, and during the night there was a 
 
30 
 
 violent thunderstorm, and the bolt fell close to 
 the town. 
 
 Monday^ lltli. — The rain continued so much, 
 we could not stir out till about one o’clock, 
 when M. Charles Bouteiller accompanied us to his 
 father’s country house, which is an old one, but 
 beautifully situated, and commanding every ad¬ 
 vantage of wood and water and picturesque 
 scenery. We met there the whole family of 
 Drouins, M. le Comte Goyon, Commandant de la 
 Province, Mesdames Berlaymont, Portier, et Quil- 
 hac, Mr. O’Byrne, the Superior of the Irish 
 College, Monsieur et Madame Manage, son-in- 
 law and daughter to Monsieur et Madame 
 Bouteiller, Monsieur Bradelet, and Monsieur 
 Tascet, who played on the flute. Our enter¬ 
 tainment was very handsome, each course con¬ 
 sisting of twenty-three dishes. We returned 
 home before supper, as we were to leave Nantes 
 early the next morning. 
 
 Tuesday^ 18^/i. — We had been much pleased 
 with our kind and hospitable reception at 
 Nantes. It is one of the richest and most pro¬ 
 fitable cities for commerce in the kingdom. We 
 set out early, and found the country flat and 
 
31 
 
 uninteresting till we got to the Levee de la 
 Loire, a road cast up to a considerable height 
 along the banks of the river: it commences at 
 Le Plessis, and is paved all the way. The views 
 from thence are most beautiful, consisting of the 
 river in the foreground, which often separates 
 into different channels, forming islands of various 
 shapes and sizes, and the opposite bank rising 
 with different elevations, some bold and rocky, 
 others covered with wood, with castles, convents, 
 villages, and magnificent buildings continually 
 presenting themselves. The general character 
 of the country is rich and fine, and abounding 
 in vineyards. We slept at Angers. 
 
 Wednesday^ —Our route continued upon 
 
 the Levee de la Loire to the Croix verte pres 
 Saumur, where we arrived about four o’clock ; 
 the views had been as beautiful as before. We 
 had a fire for the first time, the weather being 
 very damp, with showers all day. 
 
 Thursday^ 20^/i—The weather cleared up, and 
 we proceeded along the Levee to Tours, which 
 is a handsome town, seen at a consideralfie 
 distance, and situated on the beautiful Loire, 
 over which there is an elegant bridge of fifteen 
 
32 
 
 elliptical arches, quite flat, and leads to a new 
 street, at the end of which is the great straight 
 road to Bordeaux. A new road was making at 
 the end of the bridge leading to Paris. The 
 hills were covered with vineyards, and the fruit- 
 trees appeared loaded with fruit. We passed 
 several chateaux, and, near Tours, by a rock in 
 which were a considerable number of houses 
 and buildings cut into the stone. The road was 
 good along the Lev6e. After dinner, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Gartside, and Mr. and Mrs. Howard, who 
 were residing together at Tours, paid us a visit. 
 
 Friday^ 21st. —Mrs. Gartside and Mr. Howard 
 accompanied us to see the cathedral, which is a 
 very fine building, with two towers in the front. 
 The choir is spacious, and the stained glass 
 windows are in a fine old style, and very hand¬ 
 some. From thence we went to the promenade, 
 which is shady, having four rows of large elms, 
 but rather damp and low, there is a higher walk 
 open to the sun, and always dry, but neither are 
 so handsome as the public walk at Caen. We 
 dined with Mr. Gartside and family, and Mr. 
 Anson of Stafibrdshire was of the party; after 
 which we took an airing upon the Lev4e of the 
 
3a 
 
 river Cher, the banks of which are nearly as 
 beautiful as the Loire. On our return we had 
 a little concert, consisting of two violins, a tenor, 
 a violoncello, and a bassoon ; and after supper 
 we returned to our inn. 
 
 Saturday^ 'iind _We went to see the convent 
 
 of Marmontier upon a hill on the other side of 
 the Loire. The portail is very handsome, and 
 the staircase, being of beautiful white stone, and 
 finely executed. The chapel has much the ap¬ 
 pearance of antiquity. We went farther up the 
 hill to see the chapel of St. Martin, which is a 
 place of great devotion, owing to the saint 
 having lived in a cell there for many years. 
 The convent is of great extent, and is at this 
 time the place of exile of the Cardinal de Rohan. 
 The garden belonging to the old prior contains a 
 great variety of flowers, and some very curious. 
 We dined with the Gartsides and Howards, and 
 afterwards accompanied them to hear vespers at 
 the cathedral, they being Roman Catholics. 
 The service was particularly fine, being the eve 
 of St. Gatien; there was a large band of music. 
 
 On our return came the Archbishop of Tours, 
 the Cardinal de Rohan, and his cousins, the 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 Princesse de Rochefort, and the Princesse de 
 Rohan, her daughter, who were sharing his exile 
 with him, as far as living in the same village. 
 His misfortunes had rendered him very interest¬ 
 ing, and his person and manners greatly contri¬ 
 buted to that feeling; his figure is commanding 
 and fine, his countenance handsome and placid, 
 his conversation agreeable, and his address 
 highly prepossessing. He retired soon after 
 supper, being obliged to reach his convent before 
 twelve o’clock. The Princesse de Rochefort is a 
 clever entertaining person, and in correspondence 
 with most of the prime ministers of Europe, but 
 very eccentric, and singular. Mademoiselle de 
 Rohan was about seventeen, and extremely 
 gentle and pleasing. 
 
 Sunday^ ’l^rd .—^We accompanied Mrs. Howard 
 to hear high mass at the cathedral, which was 
 performed with great pomp, being the fete of 
 St. Gatien. We dined with the Gartsides, and 
 dressed afterwards to sup at the Archbishop’s. 
 His palace is handsome and spacious. We passed 
 through a noble suite of apartments to see the 
 chapel, which is an oval building with columns 
 all round it, and seats behind them; it is 
 
35 
 
 flagged with black and white marble, and looks 
 very handsome. We walked a short time upon 
 the terrace, commanding the garden, which 
 is of considerable extent for a town. Amongst 
 other company at the Archbishop’s were the 
 Cardinal and Mademoiselle de Rohan, the In- 
 tendant, with his wife and daughters, and La 
 Chanoinesse. 
 
 Monday^ _We went in the morning to 
 
 see St. Martin’s Church, which is a curious piece 
 of antiquity. The painted windows are good, 
 and there is a fine organ, upon which a Monsieur 
 Dupr4 played some pieces of music extremely 
 well. We dined again with the Gartsides, and 
 left them with regret early in the evening, to 
 visit a Mr. and'Mrs. Burton, as we were to leave 
 Tours early the next morning. It is a large 
 handsome city, in a healthful and beautiful 
 situation, and is the capital of the Touraine, 
 which is called the garden of France. 
 
 Tuesday^ 2bth _We continued our route upon 
 
 the Levee de la Loire to Blois. From Amboise 
 we went in a little hired carriage to see Chante- 
 loup, a beautiful chateau of the late Due de 
 Choiseul’s, but now belonging to the Due de 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 Penthievre, who lately purchased it. The ap¬ 
 proach is by a long avenue, and through a fine 
 pair of gates. The house is of stone, with 
 colonnades, connecting two wings. There are 
 a great number of magnificent apartments, 
 amongst which is a gallery hung with Gobelins 
 tapestry, on which are represented four beautiful 
 scenes from Don Quixote : the furniture is 
 green, satin, and gold. There are also several 
 rooms fitted up with chintz of the richest pat¬ 
 terns. In front of the house, at some distance, 
 is an elegant pagoda, dedicated to the friends of 
 the late duke who visited him during his exile. 
 Their names are printed in gold characters on 
 marble upon the sides of the second room, and 
 very numerous they are. My father and I 
 ascended to the top, which is above ninety-five 
 fathoms or toises above the level of the sea. 
 There are 150 steps, divided into seven flights, 
 with small rooms to each ; and from the top 
 a most extensive view is seen over the Foret 
 d’Amboise, through which are several fine walks. 
 The pleasure grounds are laid out in the English 
 taste, and are much admired. A rivulet runs 
 through them ; and there is a pretty grotto. 
 
37 
 
 with a figure of the late duchess, under a little 
 Chinese temple, at the top. Blois is a large 
 town, built on each side of the river, with a fine 
 bridge of communication. The Loire is very 
 broad and fine for many miles near the town, 
 and still delights the traveller with its beautiful 
 banks. 
 
 Wednesday^ 26^A. — We left Blois, and tra¬ 
 velled through a flat country of corn and vine¬ 
 yards to Orleans; the road lay about a mile 
 from the river. The town is considerable, with 
 a handsome cathedral and a beautiful mall. We 
 attended the theatre in the evening, and the 
 performances were, “ Le Roi Theodore,” an opera 
 by Paisiello, and a small piece called “ Babut,” 
 acted by the Versailles company. 
 
 Thursday^ 27th —We proceeded this- day to 
 Estampes, a neat pretty town, situated on the 
 declivity of a hill; but the road was paved the 
 whole way. 
 
 Friday^ 2^th — The road from Estampes to 
 Paris is very much ornamented with gentlemen’s 
 seats and wooded grounds. We were stopped 
 very shortly at the barriere on entering Paris, 
 
 D 3 
 
38 
 
 and went over the Pont Royal to an hotel kept 
 by Madame La Fare in the Rue Caumartin. 
 
 Saturday 29^/i_Lord Viscount Fitzwilliam, 
 
 who lodged in the same hotel, sat with us most 
 of the morning. In the evening we went to 
 look at some apartments in the H&tel de rUni- 
 versit6, those in the Rue Caumartin being too 
 noisy. 
 
 Sunday^ —We removed to our lodgings 
 
 in the Hotel de 1’University, and went to see the 
 exhibition of pictures at the Louvre, which were 
 not very good. 
 
 Monday^ October _Mr. and Mrs. Standish 
 
 arrived in Paris, and Mr. Standish passed the 
 evening with us. Mr. Gregson also called. My 
 father had the gout severely in both feet. 
 
 Tuesday^ 2nd. — Lord Fitzwilliam sent me a 
 harpsichord, which proved a very 'good one. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Standish dined with us. Monsieur 
 Perregaux called in the evening. 
 
 Wednesday., Srd _Lord Fitzwilliam paid us a 
 
 long visit in the morning, and Mr. and Mrs. 
 Standish in the evening. 
 
 Friday., 5th .—We removed to apartments on 
 the ground floor, which had been occupied by 
 
39 
 
 Lord and Lady Kerry for ten months. They 
 were very spacious and comfortable, and the 
 windows looked into a garden. Mr. Gregson 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Standish called in the evening. 
 
 Saturday^ %th. — Monsieur Rameau, a French 
 master, passed some hours with us, and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Standish called. 
 
 Sunday^ 7 th. — After reading prayers, my 
 father took his first airing, and called upon 
 several gentlemen. In the evening we went 
 through the Champs Elysees, which was full of 
 company to the Bois de Boulogne, situated in a 
 vaUey, through which are cut several alleys for 
 drives, and many carriages were airing in them. 
 Mr. Hailes called at the hotel and drank tea 
 with us. 
 
 Monday^ Sth. — Mr. and Mrs. Standish called 
 to take us to the Bibliotheque du Roi, which is 
 very magnificent. We saw two large volumes 
 of paintings of the different ornaments of the 
 Vatican, also several large volumes, containing 
 each 100 sheets of vellum, upon which are 
 painted various kinds of plants: each sheet cost 
 100 crowns. The library is very large, and 
 kept in exact order. In the long room are 
 
 V 4 
 
40 
 
 several neat and pretty models of trades. The 
 whole is open four days in the week to every 
 person who wishes to consult the books. The 
 medals and coins are arranged in flat drawers 
 within cabinets, and are esteemed the largest 
 and most rare collection in Europe. 
 
 My father took an airing through the Bois de 
 Boulogne, and returned to dinner. 
 
 Tuesday^ ^th _Mr. and Mrs. Standish called 
 
 to take us to high mass at N6tre Dame, it being 
 the Fete de St. Denis. We were in the gaUery, 
 and both heard and saw to great advantage. 
 From thence we went to the Foundling Hospital, 
 which is a very extensive and magnificent in¬ 
 stitution. The superior nun showed us all the 
 apartments, which are perfectly clean and airy: 
 one was full of cradles, with a child in each, and 
 others for different ages. At sixteen they are 
 dismissed with a pension, after receiving a good 
 education. 
 
 From the Enfans Trouves we walked about 
 the Palais Boyal, and drove along the Boule¬ 
 vards. I went in the evening to the Theatre 
 des Italiens with Mr. and Mrs. Standish, and 
 
41 
 
 saw “ Le Deserteur,” and “ Eleonore et Candie,’' 
 well acted. 
 
 Wednesday^ 10th _Mr. Gregson came after 
 
 breakfast to bore my ears, which operation was 
 performed in a very short time. Lord Fitz- 
 william called. After dinner we went to see 
 L’Hotel des Invalides, which is a fine large 
 building built by Louis XIV. The dome is 
 particularly fine, and there are four smaller 
 domes at each comer, which are all in view 
 from the centre. The floor is richly paved with 
 different coloured marbles, and the ceiling em¬ 
 bellished with paintings. The altar is very 
 handsome, upon which are four columns en¬ 
 twined with vines, supporting a canopy with 
 small figures at the top, all gilt. The coup 
 d'oeil from the centre is very striking and mag¬ 
 nificent. We saAv the Chambre du Conseil, in 
 which are pictures of ministers of war. We 
 also saw the kitchens, one for officers and 
 the other for privates, and the refectory, which 
 is a very long room, with two ranges of round 
 tables for twelve officers each ; preparation was 
 making for supper, and the linen and every 
 
42 
 
 other article appeared perfectly clean and com¬ 
 fortable. 
 
 L’Abb4 Chaupy drank tea with us. 
 
 Thursday^ 11th _At home aU day, it being 
 
 very wet. 
 
 Friday^ I'ith. — After breakfast the Abb4 
 Chaupy accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Standish 
 and ourselves to see the Eglise and Bibliotheque 
 de St. Genevieve. In our way we stopped at 
 the Ecole de la Chirurgie, which is a very 
 handsome building of great extent, but we were 
 not allowed to see the interior. The Eglise de 
 St. Genevieve was not finished, but the architec¬ 
 ture was very rich and grand, and the work¬ 
 manship highly beautiful. There were several 
 basso-relievos and enrichments. The columns 
 of the portico were Corinthian, and of fine 
 proportions. The Bibliotheque is in the form 
 of a cross, and of great extent; through one end 
 are several rooms of antiques and medals, which 
 are open to public inspection. In front of the 
 church to the right is the Court of Justice, and 
 another building was intended to be erected to 
 answer it, which will make the approach very 
 complete. 
 
43 
 
 Lord Fitzwilliam, Mr. Hailes, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Standish, and Monsieur Perregaux, dined with 
 us. In the evening we went to the Italian 
 Theatre, and saw represented “ La Fete du 
 Chateau,” “ Le Duel,” et “ Les Voyages de 
 Rosine,” a musical piece. 
 
 Saturday^ 12>th .—We called in the morning to 
 see Father Cowley, the Superior of the English 
 Benedictines ; he showed us his chapel, and the 
 coffin of James IL, who died at St. Germains, 
 and has remained there unburied ever since. 
 In a case is his likeness in wax, taken after his 
 death, and is very expressive; his daughter 
 Louisa, who died at seventeen, is also in a coffin 
 placed by his. Having been there eighty-six 
 years, the pall is nearly dropped to pieces, and 
 other parts are much decayed by time. We 
 afterwards called upon Sir Robert Strange, to 
 see a beautiful drawing he had taken from a fine 
 picture by Guido, of the Annunciation, belong¬ 
 ing to the chapel of the Carmelites, which he 
 had prepared for an engraving. The chapel is 
 extremely rich. The pictures on each side are 
 painted by Champagne, a French artist. In one 
 of the side chapels is a very fine one by Charles 
 
44 
 
 Le Brun, of a Magdalen, said to be taken for 
 the Duchesse de la Valiere, who was a nun in 
 that convent. From thence we went to see the 
 chapel of the Val de Grace, the burial-place of 
 the Dukes of Orleans, and of the hearts of the 
 Kings of France. The chapel was never finished; 
 but the architecture of the dome is reckoned as 
 fine as the Invalides; the colours of it are 
 inferior, being much faded. 
 
 After calling at some shops, we returned 
 home to dinner. Lord FitzwiUiam passed a 
 great part of the evening with us. 
 
 Sunday^ 14^4.—After morning service we went 
 to see Bagatelle (having procured a ticket for 
 that purpose), a pavilion belonging to the Due 
 d’Artois, with every convenience for a large 
 house on a small scale, situated at one end of 
 the Bois de Boulogne. We first walked through 
 the garden, which is very prettily varied with 
 grottos, temples, and little rustic bridges over a 
 clear stream, which runs through the grounds; 
 and the walks afford a great choice of views and 
 picturesque objects. The entrance is through a 
 semicircle, with niches and figures on the inside, 
 and a small porch at each end. The house is 
 
45 
 
 fitted up with princely elegance. The ground 
 floor consists of a hall, in which are placed 
 several marble busts, a dining-room, a drawing¬ 
 room, with two smaller ones on each side, pour 
 se reposer^ and a billiard-room. Above stairs 
 are different sleeping apartments, fitted up with 
 the finest chintz and silks, edged with fringes 
 and beads, which had a very good effect. In 
 one room was a dressing-table of Sevres china, 
 and a set for tea. The grates, chimney-pieces, 
 screens, lanterns, glasses, and every other furni¬ 
 ture were most handsome and beautiful. There 
 is a fine lawn, with the river Seine and the 
 Montagne de Calvare seen from the windows; 
 and it is altogether one of the most delightful 
 summer retreats that can be conceived. The 
 motto in front of the house is in Latin, but the 
 translation is, “ Small but convenient.” It is 
 said to have cost quinze cent mille francs, and 
 to have been in readiness for the duke and com¬ 
 pany to breakfast in, in six weeks, and to have 
 been entirely completed, painting and all, in 
 three months. There are apartments necessary 
 for servants. 
 
 Monday^ \bth —About one o’clock we went to 
 
46 
 
 see the English convent of White Nuns, of the 
 order of St. Augustine, of which Mrs. Lancaster 
 was the reverend mother. She showed us the 
 apartments, with Mrs. Canning and Mrs. Eitz- 
 herbert, and all the inhabitants looked very 
 cheerful and happy. We walked through the 
 garden, which is very airy, in a high situation, 
 and saw several pensioners or scholars amusing 
 themselves in it. The house and chapel are old, 
 hut kept in very nice order. Amongst other 
 persons we saw a young novice, who had been 
 there two years, and was very shortly to take 
 the veil. She was aged twenty-one. After 
 seeing every part of the convent, we returned 
 home. Dr. Gem and Father Cowley visited us. 
 
 Tuesday^ 16?/i. —Mr. Gould, a friend of Mr. 
 Gartside, called, and Dr. Gem dined with us. 
 We went to the opera, which was the first repre¬ 
 sentation of “ Penelope,” and extremely well 
 performed. I wore my hair powdered for the 
 first time. 
 
 Wednesday^ 11th. — We went in the morning, 
 through Mr. Cowley’s interest, to see the Cabinet 
 et Jardin du Roi, both highly interesting. From 
 thence to see the Gobelins tapestry, which was 
 
47 
 
 conducted by a Mr. Neilson, a Scotchman. We 
 saw several pieces in the loom, each of which 
 are three years in hand, with three workmen 
 employed on different parts. Those that were 
 completed were very large and beautiful, for 
 hangings. 
 
 We dined with Mr. Cowley at his convent, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Standish took me to the 
 Italian Theatre in the evening. 
 
 Thursday^ 18#A. — Mr. Gould dined with us, 
 and joined our party at the Theatre rran 9 ois. 
 The pieces' performed were “ La M4tromanie,” et 
 “ Le Medicin malgr4 lui.” The theatre is new 
 and very elegant. 
 
 Friday 19^/i.—We went in the morning to see 
 the Biblioth^que des Manuscrits, which are very 
 curious and rare. 
 
 Saturday^ 20^A. — We set out immediately 
 after breakfast to go to St. Denis, where are 
 interred the bodies of the kings of France, and 
 other distinguished persons. It is a most ele¬ 
 gant Gothic building, with fine painted windows. 
 The monuments are all handsome, but particu¬ 
 larly those of Francis the First and the Mard- 
 chal de Turenne. There is in the chapel a 
 
48 
 
 magnificent basin of porphyry, and pillars^ to 
 diiFerent altars of the same marble. The trea¬ 
 sure is immensely rich, containing the crowns of 
 all the kings, which are deposited there at their 
 interment, and the most beautiful vase of agate 
 perhaps in the world, on which is cut a basso-re¬ 
 lievo of the Feasts of Bacchus—one of the finest 
 specimens of the inimitable workmanship of the 
 ancients. There are also cameos of very fine 
 sardonyx, and many other precious stones. One 
 relic is remarkable, being a little figure of 
 Our Saviour, said to be made of the wood on 
 which he was crucified. From thence we went 
 to see the Chapel of the Carmelites, built by one 
 of the king’s aunts, who is at this time a nun in 
 that convent. The architecture and ornaments 
 are extremely handsome and elegant. We re¬ 
 turned to our hotel in Paris in the evening. 
 
 Sunday^ 21s#.—We went to Versailles, which 
 is about four leagues from Paris, and arrived 
 there at half-past ten o’clock, after stopping by 
 the way to obtain an admission ticket. We 
 walked about the outer apartments and play¬ 
 house, which contains a large stage, till twelve, 
 when the king went to mass. We saw him, and 
 
49 
 
 Monsieur, and the Comte d’Artois pass to the 
 chapel; and after the service they retired, and 
 the queen, and Madame, and the Comtesse 
 d’Artois went to mass also. When over, they 
 resorted to the dining-room, and the king and 
 queen sat do’wn to dinner. The king seemed 
 regardless of the company who were watching 
 him, and eat heartily, but the queen partook of 
 nothing. When the repast was over, their 
 Majesties retired to their own apartments, and 
 we went to see the royal children. The 
 Dauphin being indisposed, and the Dauphiness 
 out, we only saw the Due de Normandie, who 
 appeared a fine agreeable child. We then went 
 to the Hotel d’Elbeuf to dinner, and returned to 
 the gardens afterwards, which are of the greatest 
 extent and magnificence, partly laid out in the 
 French, and partly in the English style. From 
 the description we heard of the cascades and 
 water-works, • which only play on particular 
 days in the summer, they appear to be con¬ 
 structed with great skill and taste, and calcu¬ 
 lated to produce a beautiful effect. There are a 
 number of figures, vases, and elegant buildings 
 of marble dispersed about the gardens, and 
 
 E 
 
60 
 
 amongst them a large grotto, representing the 
 Baths of Bacchus, with figures of himself and 
 attendants returning from them, and his horses 
 waiting at other distances, which, embellished as 
 they were with cascades, and willows that weep 
 over the grotto, produce a striking and pic¬ 
 turesque effect. The Orangerie is very extensive, 
 and contains the finest orange trees, which the 
 gardeners were then housing for the winter. An 
 immense flight of steps at each end led to a fine 
 terrace at the top. The garden front of the 
 palace is the handsomest, and very few buildings 
 can exceed its magnificence. While the king 
 was at vespers, we went through the living- 
 rooms, which are fitted up with great magni¬ 
 ficence. The tables and chimney-pieces are 
 ornamented with Sevres china, elegant clocks, and 
 gilt branches for lights. A clock in one of the 
 outer apartments is curious in its manner of 
 striking ; two small doors open, and a steel ball 
 comes out of each, which are struck by two 
 little figures on the outside. Upon those 
 retiring, a middle door opens, and Louis XIV. 
 makes his appearance with a figure crowning 
 him. These also retire. The palace contains 
 
51 
 
 many fine pictures ; and there is a noble gallery, 
 painted by Le Brun, of great length. Opposite 
 the windows all along are large panes of looking 
 glass to answer them. The chapel is a fine one, 
 with a gallery, at the upper end of which sit the 
 royal family. At the lower end was an ex¬ 
 cellent band of music, over the altar. Versailles 
 is situated on a hill, and the road to it from 
 Paris is varied with agreeable views. We 
 reached our hotel about eight o’clock in the 
 evening. 
 
 Monday^ _Mr. and Mrs. Standish, the 
 
 Abbe Chaupy, Mr. Cowley, and Mr. Walker, 
 dined with us. 
 
 Tuesday^ 'i^rd. — We went about nine o’clock 
 to the English convent, to see the young lady 
 before-mentioned professed, and witness the 
 ceremony of her taking the vows of the convent. 
 We were admitted into the choir with the nuns, 
 where she appeared as soon as the service began. 
 It was performed by their confessor, who was 
 delegated by the bishop, the grand-vicaire being 
 indisposed. She was dressed in white, and was 
 j)erfectly steady and composed during the whole 
 ceremony, which lasted tAvo hours and three 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 quarters. After the priest had sprinkled her 
 clothes with holy water at the end of the choir, 
 the Reverend Mother handed her to meet him, 
 and dressed her in the habit of the Augustins ; 
 after which she lay prostrate in the middle of 
 the choir a considerable time. The same 
 ceremony was repeated on putting on the black 
 veil, and the wreath of flowers on her head; 
 after which she again prostrated herself in the 
 same place on a carpet and cushion for her 
 head, denoting thereby her entire renunciation 
 of the world. When she arose, a taper was put 
 into her hand, and she again met the priest at 
 the end of the choir, who brought the sacrament, 
 which she took, and before which she read her 
 vows, and signed them with the utmost com¬ 
 posure. After a few more prayers, she went 
 round and kissed all the nuns, acknowledging 
 them as her sisters ; and when the service was 
 entirely over, the Reverend Mother handed her 
 out of the choir with aU the nuns following in 
 procession. She then said she felt in greater 
 spirits and happier than she had ever been 
 before. Her countenance indicated the serenity 
 of her mind, and bespoke the peace and comfort 
 
53 
 
 which religion and an innocent life can alone 
 inspire. Lady Blount, and Miss Stapleton, who 
 were of the party, have apartments within the 
 walls of the convent. We dined in the refectory 
 at twelve o’clock, with all the nuns ; and the 
 young ladies, pensioners, were allowed to join 
 the party this day as an indulgence. We 
 walked in the garden afterwards, and drank tea 
 about five o’clock. The young nun, surnamed 
 Sister Ann Frances, was in high glee. About 
 six we returned home, very much pleased with 
 the society we had been in, but lamenting the 
 self-devotion of the religious community. 
 
 Pam, October 24^/t_Father Cowley called. 
 
 Went out airing with papa. Mrs. Standish 
 came-to us in the evening. 
 
 Thursday^ 2hth. —Mr. and Mrs. Standish, and 
 Mr. and Mrs. Gregson, dined with us. 
 
 Friday^ 26^/i-Went with Mr. and Mrs. 
 
 Standish to the English convent of Blue Nuns 
 in the Faubourg St. Antoine, of the third order 
 of St. Francis. Their dress resembles that of 
 the White Nuns. We saw the superior through 
 the grate, and sat with her some time. After 
 
 E 3 
 
54 
 
 calling at some shops, we returned home for the 
 day. Lord Fitz-svilliam called. 
 
 Saturday^ 21th. — Mr. Gould, and the Abb4 
 Chaupy, called in the evening. 
 
 Sunday., 2%th. — Lord Fitzwilliam dined with 
 us. Mr. Hailes, Mr. Gould, Mrs. Standish, and 
 the Abb4 Chaupy, came in the evening. 
 
 Monday, 2^th. —Mr. and Mrs. Standish called 
 in the evening. 
 
 Tuesday, 2>Qith _Took a walk round the 
 
 Tuilleries gardens, which are very handsome. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Standish dined us, and accom¬ 
 panied us to see the opera of “ Tarare,” which is 
 one of the finest spectacles ever exhibited. 
 
 Wednesday, 31s#.—We went to see the Comte 
 de Yaudreuil’s house, in the Rue de la Chaise, 
 which was very magnificently fitted up, and was 
 shortly to be sold. It was full of beautiful buhl 
 cabinets and ornamental furniture. Walked in 
 the Tuilleries gardens. Went in the evening to 
 see again the Jardin du Roi. Mr. and Mrs. 
 Standish supped with us. 
 
 Thursday, November 1st. — Mr. and Mrs. 
 Standish left Paris. Mr. Gould called. We went 
 in the evening to N6tre Dame to see the arch- 
 
55 
 
 bishop give his benediction. The congregation 
 was very numerous. 
 
 Friday^ Ird _Mr. Gregson went with us to 
 
 a china warehouse near the Pont Royal. Papa 
 and I went to the opera in the evening, and 
 heard “ Alceste,” a very fine one by Gluck. 
 
 Saturday^ ^rd. —Mr. Gregson accompanied us 
 to see again the Comte de Vaudreuil’s house. 
 L’Abbe Chaupy passed the evening with us. 
 
 Sunday^ ^th. — I took an airing with papa to 
 the village of Neuilly, by the Plaine de Sablon, 
 where the king reviews his French and Swiss 
 guards. The Pont de Neuilly has been lately 
 built, and is very elegant, and commands a 
 pretty view of the river on each side. We 
 returned by the Bois de Boulogne. Lord Fitz- 
 william and Monsieur Perregaux dined with us. 
 
 Monday^ hth .— Went in the morning to see 
 Daguerre’s shop, a very famous cabinet-maker; 
 afterwards to see the beautiful tomb erected to 
 Cardinal Richelieu in the Eglise de Sorbonne. 
 He is supported by his niece, the Duchesse 
 d’AiguiUon, in the character of Religion, with 
 two figures of Genius at his head, and another of 
 his nieces as Science weeping at his feet. The 
 
 E 4 
 
56 
 
 expression of the whole is very natural and fine. 
 Papa went in the evening to the Yariet^s amu- 
 santes at the Palais Royal. 
 
 Tuesday^ ^th. — Dined at the English convent 
 of White Nuns, and went to the opera with papa 
 in the evening. They performed “ Le Roi Theo¬ 
 dore a Venise,” by PaisieUo, in which were intro¬ 
 duced some beautiful dances. 
 
 Wednesday^ lih _Went to see Mademoiselle 
 
 Dervieux’s house, which is newly fitted up, and 
 in a most elegant style; and afterwards walked 
 about the Palais Royal, where we made some 
 purchases. Papa went in the evening to the 
 Comedie Italienne. 
 
 Thursday^ ^th _We went to see the Palais 
 
 Bourbon, belonging to the Prince de Conde, 
 which is most magnificently fitted up. In the 
 grand dining-room are four large pictures of 
 dificrent battles fought by the great Cond4 in 
 Louis XIII. and Louis XIY’s. time; three against 
 the Spanish, and one against the Austrians, in 
 the space of five years; and in a sitting-room 
 are four landscapes by Claude over the doors. 
 The furniture is all of the richest and most 
 valuable kind. 
 
57 
 
 In the evening we went to the Ambigu Co- 
 mique, a small theatre on the Boulevards, where 
 we were much amused. The pieces performed 
 were “L’Epreuve Dangereuse,” and “Doroth4e.” 
 
 Friday^ dtli. — We walked some time in the 
 Luxembourg gardens, which are very pleasant. 
 The palace now belongs to the king’s brother. 
 Monsieur. 
 
 Mr. Gregson and L’Abb4 Chaupy called in the 
 evening. 
 
 Saturday^ 10th. — We went to see the china 
 manufactory at Sevres, which is of rare beauty, 
 but very expensive. We saw the whole maga¬ 
 zine, in which there was great variety, as well 
 in shape as in colour and ornament. We 
 returned to the hotel to dinner, and in the 
 evening I went with papa to the Theatre Italien, 
 where we saw “Buch4ron” and “Nina,” in which 
 last piece Mademoiselle Dugazon excelled ini¬ 
 mitably. 
 
 Sunday.! 11th -We walked some time in the 
 
 Tudleries gardens, it being quite a summer’s 
 day. Mr. Gregson, and Lord FitzwiUiam called 
 in the evening. 
 
 Monday., i2th .—We dined at the ambassador’s. 
 
58 
 
 the Duke of Dorset’s, and, amongst other com¬ 
 pany, met Lord and Lady Kerry, and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Gardner. The repast was very magni¬ 
 ficent, and the desert on a service of Sevres 
 china. 
 
 Tuesday^ — Lord Fitzwilliam accom¬ 
 
 panied us to see the Sainte Chapelle, in which 
 are five large and beautiful painted windows ; 
 from thence to the Palais, at the front of which 
 a magnificent iron gateway has been lately 
 erected, as an entrance to the court. We went 
 through several rooms, where different branches 
 of the Parliament sit. 
 
 From the Palais we went to see Monsieur 
 Duspresle’s fine collection of pictures, many of 
 which are valuable specimens of the great 
 masters, and beautiful of their kind. His house 
 is fitted up with choice old furniture, upon 
 which stand vases of different marbles, and 
 curious stones; and there are small cabinets full 
 of antiques and reliques, and many rare and 
 curious articles. 
 
 In our way home we called on Monsieur Le 
 Brun, and saw some beautiful portraits painted 
 by Madame Le Brun. 
 
59 
 
 Lord Fitzwilliam passed the day with us. 
 L’Abbe Chaupy came to supper. 
 
 Wednesday^ l^th .—We went to see Monceau, a 
 small place belonging to the Duke of Orleans, 
 which has been entirely laid out in the English 
 style: the pleasure grounds are ornamented with 
 a variety of small buildings and ruins, and little 
 streams of water and plantations. The house 
 is neat and pretty, and the stables extremely 
 good, and of great extent. They were well filled 
 with English horses and grooms. There is a 
 communication from the house to the stables 
 and hothouses ; and the Duke is still adding to 
 the little buildings in the grounds, which 
 command pretty views. We returned home to 
 dinner. 
 
 Thursday^ \hth. —Papa went to the Theatre 
 Italien at night. 
 
 Friday^ l^th. — We set out early to see St. 
 Germain, and the day being fine, showed the 
 rich and beautiful view from the terrace to 
 great advantage. It commands a great extent of 
 wood, water, and fine country. The forest is 
 very large, in which are several openings to 
 afford pleasant rides and drives. We returned 
 
60 
 
 by Marli, where we saw Madame du Barry’s 
 elegant pavilion, which is situated very high, 
 and commands nearly the same delightful view 
 as from the terrace at St. Germain. It is fitted 
 up in a most expensive and beautiful manner 
 in white and gold, with a variety of Sevres china 
 in every room. The entrance is marble, with 
 four figures of the same, one of which is said to 
 be a likeness of herself. The greatest taste is 
 shown throughout the whole. We dined at 
 Marli, and saw the curious machine which 
 conveys water to Versailles, and returned to 
 Paris about six o’clock. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred on the 17th and 
 18th. 
 
 Monday^ l^th. — We waited all the morning 
 in the TuiUeries gardens, to see the king return 
 from the Parliament to Versailles, which did not 
 happen till six o’clock in the evening; a most 
 unusual circumstance, as he was never before 
 known to stay above half an hour. He 
 was attended by the guet and the gardes du 
 corps: his two brothers. Monsieur and the 
 Comte d’Artois, were with him; and the train 
 consisted of four carriages with eight horses. 
 
61 
 
 and men before them carrying flambeaux, the 
 night being come on. 
 
 The procession was not nearly so grand as that 
 of the King of England going and returning 
 from his Parliament. 
 
 • Tuesday^ ‘20th. — The Abbe Chaupy passed 
 the evening with us. 
 
 Wednesday., 21s#. — Mr. and Mrs. Gregson 
 dined with us. Papa went to see the Petits 
 Comddiens of the Comte Beaujolois, at the 
 Palais Royal. 
 
 Thursday., 22nd. — Dr. Gem and Lord Fitz- 
 william passed the evening with us. 
 
 Friday, 2^rd _Called upon the Miss Coutts’s 
 
 and others in the morning, and Lord Fitz- 
 william and the Abb4 Chaupy came in the 
 evening. 
 
 Saturday, 24#/t. — We went to see the Eglise 
 de St. Sulpice, which is very curious and 
 beautiful. The Chapelle de la Sainte Yierge, 
 behind the choir, is very uncommon. It is 
 much ornamented with paintings, and has a 
 painted dome. The altar is in the centre, with 
 the image of the Blessed Virgin, and our 
 Saviour in her arms, elevated in the clouds. 
 
62 
 
 ’^vith two other figures below her, all of one 
 piece of marble. The organ is a new one, and 
 the whole church is extremely handsome. 
 
 On the outside are two chapels,- one for 
 christenings, and the other for marriages, the 
 latter is not finished, but the former is very 
 beautiful. 
 
 Monsieur Rameau dined with us. Papa went 
 to the Theatre Italien in the evening. 
 
 Sunday^ 2bth —We attended divine service at 
 the Duke of Dorset’s chapel. Lord Fitzwilliam 
 dined Avith us. 
 
 Monday^ 2Qth. — We went again to see the 
 Bibliotheque du Roi, and in the evening to a 
 party at the Duke of Dorset’s, which Avas very 
 brilliant. There were refreshments; and a 
 person who excelled on the musical glasses 
 performed most of the evening. 
 
 Tuesday^ 21th _Lord Fitzwilliam called both 
 
 morning and evening. Dr. Gem dined Avith us. 
 
 Wednesday^ 2%th .—We left Paris before nine 
 o’clock, and went through Villejuiss, Fromenteau, 
 Essone, Ponthiery, Chailly, to Fontainbleau, 
 where we arrived about three o’clock. The 
 road Avas very fine, and the country varied AAuth 
 
63 
 
 pretty views. We saw an immense quantity of 
 game the whole way. The last stage the road 
 lay through the forest, which is well filled with 
 fine oaks. We saw the palace, which is in the 
 middle of the chase, before dinner; it is very 
 large and old. The queen has lately had three 
 apartments newly fitted up for herself in a very 
 handsome and elegant manner, particularly a 
 boudoir, which is very rich. Fontainbleau is a 
 small neat town. 
 
 Thursday^ 29//i. — Left Fontainbleau about 
 seven o’clock, and continued our route through 
 the forest to Nemours, two posts; from thence 
 the country was open and well cultivated to La 
 Croisure, Fontenay, Puy-la-Land, Montargis, La 
 Commodity, Nogent-sur-Vernisson, La Bussiere, 
 to Briare. The road was very good, the forest 
 varied with large rocks, and within a few miles 
 of Briare, we got sight of the river Loire. 
 
 Friday^ 30^A. — We set out about eight 
 o’clock, and went through Nenoy, Come, 
 Pouilly, La Charity, Pouques, to Nevers, which 
 is a considerable town, but ill paved. The road 
 very good the whole way, and chiefly near the 
 beautiful river Loire, which is very broad, and 
 
64 
 
 the banks as rich and pleasing as before. The 
 country is well cultivated with vineyards and 
 corn. We went over a large stone bridge across 
 the Loire at the end of the town. 
 
 Saturday^ December Is?.—We started at half¬ 
 past six o’clock, and continued our route 
 through Maguy, St. Pierre-le-Moutier, St. 
 Joubert, and La Villeneuve, to Moulins, where 
 we went to the Convent de Ste. Marie, to see a 
 monument erected to the memory of the famous 
 Due de Montmorency, who was beheaded in the 
 reign of Louis XIII. There are two figures of 
 himself and his duchess upon the sarcophagus, 
 which is of black marble, with a Hercules on one 
 side and Liberality on the other, aU of white 
 marble, beautifully sculptured, and forming a 
 fine composition. 
 
 From Moulins we went to Bessay, Varenne, 
 St. Gerard-le-Roi, to La Pahsse, a small town. 
 The country we passed through was fertile, and 
 diversified with extensive and pleasing views. 
 
 Sunday^ 'in.d .—We wentthis day through a hiUy 
 country by Droiturier, St. Martin-des-Traux, La 
 Pacandiere, St. Germain I’Espinasse, to Roanne, 
 which is situated in a plain upon the Loire, 
 
65 
 
 which here begins to be navigable. The road 
 was excellent, though hilly. We walked up 
 several ascents, which commanded beautiful 
 views, that were bounded by mountains, some 
 well cultivated, and others of a bolder character. 
 
 Monday^ Zrd. — We commenced our journey 
 at six o’clock, and went through St. Symphorien 
 de Layes, and La Fontaine, to Tarare, where we 
 were obliged to remain till the next morning, in 
 consequence of one of the brancards and the 
 spring on that side of the carriage breaking. 
 The country had been very hilly, and the roads 
 rough and jolting. We walked a great part of 
 the way up and down the Mont Tarare, which 
 is very high and long, but commanding fine 
 views. We met a considerable number of carts 
 drawn by oxen going each way. We sent all 
 our heavy luggage in a cart to Lyons, that the 
 carriage might be lighter, to prevent a recur¬ 
 rence of the accident the next day. 
 
 Tuesday4dh. — We started again about eight 
 o’clock ; but the carriage once more giving way 
 soon after we left the village, we were obliged 
 to alight and take refuge in the first house we 
 came to, the day being wet and dirty, till 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 another vehicle could be procured for us, and 
 ours put in a state to move slowly on to Lyons. 
 The house we waited in during our delay 
 belonged to a blacksmith, who, having no chil¬ 
 dren, took the charge of two nieces from dif¬ 
 ferent families ; and we were much interested in 
 the account they gave us of their manner of 
 living: everything seemed to be conducted with 
 rigid economy, but with great cleanliness and 
 good management. About one o’clock our hired 
 carriage called for us, which was a very slender 
 concern, the body part being composed of basket- 
 work, lined with ticking, and very small for four 
 persons. However, with care it, conveyed us by 
 Les Arnas, and La Tour de Salvigny, to Lyons. 
 The roads continued rough and jolting, and 
 over a very hilly country, particularly by Mont 
 Bresle. We descended for a long way into the 
 town, which is most beautifully situated between 
 and upon the confluence of the rivers Khone 
 and Sa6ne, which form a striking contrast,—the 
 former being rapid and impetuous, and the latter 
 smooth and gentle. We crossed the Sa6ne, and 
 went along the quay, which is very handsome, 
 to the Hotel d’Artois, where we got agreeable 
 
67 
 
 apartments, commanding the Saone, and the 
 opposite bank, which rises to a high elevation, 
 and upon which there are several houses and 
 convents, one of the latter making the eighteenth 
 situated quite upon the summit. 
 
 Wednesday^ 5th. — Papa and I took a long 
 walk through the Place de belle Cour, reckoned 
 the largest square in Europe; but it is not 
 distinguished by handsome buildings; from 
 thence to the quay upon the Rhone, and along 
 the beautiful promenade to the confluence of the 
 two rivers, from whence there is a very good 
 view of the Alps. There cannot be a more 
 delightful walk in fine weather. Mr. and Mrs. 
 Standish arrived, and took apartments in the 
 same hotel with us. We always dined together. 
 
 Thursday., ^th. — Mr. Stuart, son to Lord 
 Mountstuart, called upon us. The gentlemen 
 were out all morning, and went to the play in 
 the evening. 
 
 Friday., 7th. — We went to see the different 
 manufactories of velvets and silks, which are 
 carried on in great perfection at Lyons, and 
 made a few purchases ; and in the evening went 
 into the Intendant’s box at the theatre, Avhich is 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 a very large one, with an admirable company of 
 players belonging to it. They performed an 
 opera called “ Lausus et Lydie,” both the music 
 and words of which were composed by an 
 amateur of the place, and were much applauded. 
 
 Saturday^ Sth .—Walked in the Place de belle 
 Cour. Mr. Stuart, Mr. Littlehales, and M. 
 Eynard dined with us. We drank tea with 
 Mrs. Langton, who with her children have 
 settled in France. They are Irish Roman 
 Catholics, and related to the Standishes. The 
 eldest daughter, now Madame Gabet, married 
 into a French family. 
 
 Sunday^ 9th. — Papa and Mr. Standish were 
 presented to the Intendant and the Comman¬ 
 dant. We all went to the Intendante’s in the 
 evening, and from thence to Mrs. Langton’s, 
 where we supped. 
 
 Monday., 10 th .—We went a little before 
 twelve to see a curious clock strike in the 
 cathedral. It is greatly superior in size and 
 mechanism to the one noticed at Versailles, but is 
 unfortunately out of repair, and no one has the 
 skill to put it in order. The cathedral is a fine 
 large church, with beautiful painted windows. 
 
69 
 
 We alighted at the bottom of the Mont Fourviere, 
 the hill opposite to our hotel, upon which there 
 are eighteen convents, and ascended it. We 
 reached the top of the highest tower to take a 
 view of the extensive and delightful prospect all 
 around. It commands a magnificent view of 
 the city of Lyons, and the course of the two fine 
 rivers upon which it stands; Mont Blanc, and 
 other mountains of the Alps, 100 miles distant, 
 covered with snow; and the plain of St. Cyr, 
 upon which are situated many ornamented 
 villas, which appear to be delightful residences 
 for the summer. We afterwards went to see a 
 fine picture of a Dying Christ, by Rubens, in 
 the Gonfalo Chapel, which for interest and 
 expression can yield to very few: it is of 
 superior beauty. 
 
 Tuesday^ Wth _We went to see the Hotel de 
 
 Ville in the Place des Terreaux, another large 
 square. It is a handsome building, with a fine 
 fa 9 ade, containing many spacious apartments. 
 The public library, that formerly was the college 
 of the Jesuits, is extremely well worth seeing, and 
 kept in the neatest order. It consists of a fine 
 collection of books, both printed and in manu- 
 
 F 3 
 
70 
 
 script, in all languages. From thence we took 
 an airing to a farm belonging to the hospital, 
 which supplies it with vegetables and the 
 produce of the dairy. The drive is beautiful, and 
 passes several country seats and houses where 
 parties meet in the summer to enjoy the situa¬ 
 tion. The climate of Lyons is delightful, for, 
 although in December, the air is as genial as the 
 latter end of spring in England. We went and 
 returned over the Pont Morant, which is across 
 the Rhone, built of wood, but so judiciously, as 
 not to resist the force of that river. Monsieur 
 Laboreau, a French master, attended me that 
 evening. 
 
 Wednesday^ l^th. — We took’ a beautiful 
 airing upon the quay of the Rhone, and went to 
 a party at the Intendance in the evening, where 
 there were cards and supper. 
 
 Thursday^ l^th .—We took another airing, 
 and I had a French lesson from Monsieur 
 Laboreau. We supped at Madame la Marquise 
 de Rochebaron’s. 
 
 Friday^ lAth. — Our drive this morning lay 
 upon the banks of the Sa6ne, and we passed the 
 famous prison of Pierre Encise, which is situated 
 
71 
 
 upon a rock, and has a very romantic appear¬ 
 ance. The whole country is delightful, and 
 affords a great variety of the most agreeable 
 views. 
 
 We supped again at the Intendance. 
 
 Saturday^ \hth. — We extended our drive to¬ 
 day along the same road on the banks of the 
 Saone, and discovered new beauties. We passed 
 an island on which there are walks and pleasure 
 grounds for the enjoyment of parties in the 
 summer. We went to the play in the evening, 
 which was “ Fanfan et Colia,” and “Le Juge- 
 ment de Midas.” 
 
 Sunday^ l^th .—We went to see the arch- > 
 bishop’s palace, and were very politely received 
 by his nephew, the Abbe de Montazet (he being 
 himself at Paris), who gave us a handsome 
 breakfast. The palace is large, and contains a 
 number of fine rooms, commanding agreeable 
 prospects, but iU fitted up. It stands close to 
 the Saone, opposite our hotel. 
 
 Monday^ 11th. — We left our cards pour 
 prendre conge at the Intendance and at Madame 
 de Rochebaron’s, in our way to the theatre, where 
 we saw performed, “ Le Cocher suppose,” et 
 
 F 4 
 
72 
 
 “La Roslere,” the latter a very pretty opera 
 composed by Gr^ky. We supped at Madame 
 Gabet’s, who is lodged by the king at the Mint, 
 her husband being the director. 
 
 Tuesday^ l^tli _In the morning we took 
 
 leave of Mrs. Langton and family, and of 
 Madame Gabet. Mr. Stuart and Mr. Little- 
 bales dined with us, and accompanied us to the 
 play, where we saw “Le Menteur,” by Corneille, 
 and “ Nina,” extremely well acted. 
 
 Wednesday^ IWi _We called to take leave of 
 
 the Abbe de Montazet; and Mr. Stuart and 
 Mr. Littlehales visited us in the evening. 
 
 Thursday^ 20^/t. — Having hired two boats, 
 one for' ours and Mr. Standish’s carriages, and 
 the other with a small cabin for ourselves, we 
 embarked with all our luggage, upon the Sabne; 
 but the wind being against us, we were obliged 
 to stop soon after we got into the Rhone, tiU it 
 had in some measure subsided, which, however, 
 did not detain us long. We passed several 
 villages close to the river, which were sheltered 
 by large rocks and mountains, which bounded 
 the landscape on either side. Our eyes were 
 continually feasted with romantic and pictu- 
 
73 
 
 resque views, afforded by large ruinous castles, 
 country seats, and small hamlets or villages, 
 that were scattered upon the hills in the most 
 beautiful manner that can be conceived. We 
 stopped a short time at Vienne, but did not 
 land. The cathedral appeared to be a fine 
 gothic building, in a pretty situation. At the 
 village of Condrieux we laid in a small provision 
 of the celebrated wine called cote rotie. The 
 night being very fine, and the moon making its 
 appearance, tempted us to proceed as far as 
 St. Vallier, where we landed at half-past eight 
 o’clock, and were extremely well lodged. The 
 Rhone was extremely full, and had in many 
 places overflowed its banks. 
 
 Friday^ 21sf.—We embarked again between 
 eight and nine o’clock, and found the banks of 
 the river still more wild and rocky than those 
 we passed yesterday ; although every part that 
 was capable of being cultivated was rendered 
 fertile by the industry of the inhabitants. We 
 saw many ruins and buildings upon the very 
 extremities of the rocks, which, together with 
 the delightful situation of the villages, rendered 
 the prospects most interesting, and afforded 
 
74 
 
 great variety. We landed at Teint, a village at 
 the bottom of the Montagne d’Hermitage, cele¬ 
 brated for a wine of that name,—papa having a 
 letter to one of the principal merchants there, 
 of whom he ordered a supply. It is wonderful 
 to see the pains that are taken for the growth of 
 vines upon those steep and rocky mountains, by 
 supporting the earth in ridges or little walls like 
 steps to the very summit, to prevent its being 
 washed away by the rains. The river, Isere, 
 from Savoy, joins the Ehone a little short of 
 Valence, which is beautifully situated, and the 
 approach to which is much to be admired. In 
 the evening, at a little distance from the river, 
 we got sight of Montelimart, which is noted in 
 Madame de Sevigne’s letters as being the place 
 from whence she could first see the Chateau de 
 Grignan, her daughter’s country house. The 
 water was so high, and the current so strong, 
 that our Padrone thought it unsafe to venture 
 as far as Pont St. Esprit, which obliged us to 
 put in at a small town with a very poor inn, 
 being no thoroughfare, and seldom frequented. 
 We had much difficulty in landing from the 
 force of the water, and the rockiness of the 
 
75 
 
 shore; but we had a fine moon, which had been 
 a most interesting companion for the last two 
 hours. The little town was in the Vivarois, and 
 called Bourg St. Andeol. The jargon that was 
 spoken there was unintelligible, and quite dif¬ 
 ferent from the French language. Our accom¬ 
 modations, however, were better than we ex¬ 
 pected; we had a good supper, with tolerable 
 rooms and beds. The view from the hiU close 
 to the town, upon which there is a convent, is 
 beautiful. The opposite bank was covered with 
 olive-trees, which, being evergreen, looked fresh 
 and rich at this season. 
 
 Saturday^ lind .—We embarked again with a 
 fine morning, and soon got sight of the Pont 
 St. Esprit, which is a beautiful object, and built 
 in a curve to resist the rapidity of the stream, 
 with twenty-three arches, but still thought too 
 slight for the Rhone. We all (except papa) 
 preferred landing and walking over the bridge, 
 to the risk of going under it in the boat. The 
 town belonging to it is in a sweet situation, and 
 at the entrance of Languedoc. The country from 
 thence to Avignon is open and fertile, the trees 
 chiefly olive and cypress, and the corn is said to 
 
76 
 
 be finer under the shade of the former than in 
 other parts. There was a continuation of high 
 hills, but at a greater distance than before, and 
 Mont Ventoux of the number, entirely covered 
 with snow; it is esteemed the highest in France. 
 We passed two fine castles belonging to the 
 Prince de Soubise, and saw the Pope’s in the 
 distance. The situation of Avignon is very 
 commanding, and is seen for a long way as you 
 approach it. It is surrounded by a wall, with 
 occasional square towers, in perfect repair; and 
 there was formerly a fine bridge, with a great 
 number of arches, over the river, but they are 
 now reduced to three, and quite in ruin. As 
 the town belongs to the Pope, there is a Cardinal 
 Legate always residing there. The Jews live in 
 a separate part, and are allowed a synagogue, 
 but are particularly distinguished by their hats. 
 The men’s are orange, the women’s black, Avith a 
 large lump on one side. We arrived betAveen 
 three and four o’clock, and went to the theatre, 
 where we saw represented “ Iphigenie en 
 Tauride.” 
 
 Sunday^ '^Zrd .—We walked on the promenade, 
 and went to the Cordeliers to see Laura’s tomb. 
 
77 
 
 which is in a recess under an arch. It is a very 
 large chapel, and contains also the tomb of the 
 brave Crillion. 
 
 Monday^ 24ifA. —We went to see the Cardinal 
 Legate’s palace, in which there are some fine 
 rooms, but the views which they command are 
 the most to be admired. The fine Rhone, with 
 the beautiful situation of Villeneuve, and the 
 convent of Benedictines on the opposite bank, 
 first attract the attention; then the number of 
 churches and chapels in Avignon, and the plain 
 stretching out to the right, which is so fertile 
 with vineyards, meadows, and corn-fields, that 
 it supplies the town with the necessaries of life; 
 and beyond is the village of Lille, and the 
 ramparts of Vaucluse. At midnight Mrs. Stan- 
 dish, mamma, and I, went to the Eglise de 
 St. Agricole to hear mass, it being Christmas 
 eve. The church was highly illuminated, and 
 the whole appearance and service was very 
 imposing. 
 
 Tuesday^ Ihtli. — The day being excessively 
 fine, we took a walk round the town, and went 
 to the Eglise de Misericorde to see a Christ, cut 
 in a large fine piece of ivory by a slave, who. 
 
78 
 
 Ave were told, obtained his liberty from the skill 
 which he shoAved in the execution of the figure. 
 It is most expressive and much to be admired. 
 
 Wednesday^ -Mamma and I set out at 
 
 half-past six o’clock in a hired chaise to see 
 Vaucluse, which is so elegantly described in 
 Petrarch’s works, as being his favourite place of 
 retirement. On our arrival, a girl conducted 
 us along the side of a high mountain to the 
 source of the celebrated fountain, reckoned by 
 geographers the finest spring in Europe. It rises 
 under a stupendous rock that hangs partly over 
 it, and, rushing out of the sides in many places, 
 forces its way through others, which are a great 
 height on each side, leaving large masses in the 
 middle, which, by breaking the course of the 
 water, render it still more animating and pic¬ 
 turesque. After the most romantic Avindings, it 
 flows through an extensive plain to Lille, which 
 it supplies with excellent fish, and delicious 
 water. Upon the summit of a hill near the 
 fountain-head are the remains of an old castle, 
 which was the residence of Laura, in a most 
 picturesque situation; and at the extremity of 
 the first hill is a small village, in which, we 
 
79 
 
 were told, was the dwelling of Petrarch. Vau- 
 cluse seems particularly adapted to solitude, the 
 river being secluded from passengers by steep 
 mountains, some of which being covered with 
 olive trees, add to the beauty of the place in the 
 winter season. Thursday and Friday we re¬ 
 mained at Avignon, as I was confined by a cold; 
 and on Saturday, 29th, we left it, and, crossing 
 both branches of the Rhone upon ferries, turned 
 to the right through Villeneuve, and ascended 
 along the side of a hill, from the top of which 
 we enjoyed a most beautiful and extensive pros¬ 
 pect of the two towns and the adjacent country. 
 We went by a cross road, about half a league 
 out of the post road to Nismes, to see the 
 beautiful Pont du Gard, which was built by the 
 Romans in the reign of Augustus, as an aque¬ 
 duct to convey water from a fine spring in those 
 mountains to supply the town of Nismes, in 
 which there was at that time a Roman colony. 
 
 The simplicity, elegance, and grandeur with 
 which this bridge strikes every beholder, is a 
 convincing proof of its great superiority to all 
 modern works. It consists of three heights of 
 arches; the lower one has six, the second eleven. 
 
80 
 
 and the third, which held the water, 36, one of 
 Avliich is fallen into decay, hut the rest are in 
 fine preservation, which shows the excellency of 
 the workmanship. It stands over the river 
 Garden, and there has lately been added to the 
 lower arches a bridge over which carriages can 
 pass. We went to Remoulins, and St. Gervasy, 
 to Nismes, where we arrived between five and 
 six o’clock. 
 
 Sunday, SOth. — We went from Nismes to 
 Uchault, and Lunel, famous for a sweet wine of 
 that name made there, Colombiere, and Mont¬ 
 pellier. 
 
 The country is fertile, growing olive-trees, 
 corn, and vines, and the town stands on a hill, 
 with high houses and narrow streets. 
 
 Monday, 31s^. — Papa and ma mm a went in 
 search of a house for us during our stay, and 
 found one aux Jardins de Monsieur Perimont, 
 called L’Enclos de Masque, which was very plea¬ 
 sant, a little way out of the town. 
 
 Tuesday, January Is#, 1788. — We went to 
 our new house, which we found very comfort¬ 
 able. 
 
 Wednesday, 2nd. — We called upon Lady 
 
81 
 
 Louth, Lord and Lady Sunderlin, Lord West¬ 
 meath, the Archbishop of Narbonne, and Ma¬ 
 dame de Rothe, and the Comte de Perigord. 
 
 The archbishop and Madame de Rothe re¬ 
 turned our visit in the evening. 
 
 Thursday^ Srd .—We were presented in the 
 evening by Madame de Rothe to the Comte de 
 Perigord, Monsieur et Madame ITntendante, 
 Monsieur et Madame de Joubert, and Madame 
 de Moncan ; from whence we supped with the 
 archbishop, where there were a great assemblage 
 of bishops, it being the sitting of the States of 
 Languedoc, &c. 
 
 Friday^ 4th. — Papa dined with the arch¬ 
 bishop, and went to a concert in the evening: he 
 afterwards supped at the Comte de Perigord’s. 
 
 Saturday., hth. — Papa dined at Monsieur de 
 Joubert’s. In the evening. Monsieur and 
 Madame ITntendante, Monsieur and Madame 
 la Presidente le Gros, Madame de Moncan, 
 and Le Comte de Perigord, returned our 
 visits. 
 
 Sunday., ^th. — Papa went out in the morning 
 with Mr. Sheldon, and dined at Monsieur de 
 Perigord’s. We all supped at the archbishop’s. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 Monday^ 1th .—We all supped at Monsieur de 
 Perigord’s, where there was a great deal of 
 company, and a very handsome entertainment. 
 The supper consisted of two courses, of sixty 
 covers each, a dessert, and coffee. We met 
 there Lord and Lady Sunderlin, and the Miss 
 Malones. 
 
 Tuesday.! —We attended a great supper at 
 
 the Intendance. 
 
 Wednesday.! 9th -We called upon Lord and 
 
 Lady Sunderlin, and walked upon the beautiful 
 Place de P4ron, at the upper end of which is an 
 elegant temple, from which there are cascades. 
 The water is conveyed from a distant mountain, 
 by an aqueduct for near a mile to the temple, 
 from whence it supplies the town. In the 
 middle of the place is a statue of Louis XIY. on 
 horseback in bronze, and it is surrounded by 
 the finest gravel walks. The prospect is very 
 extensive, comprehending three countries, and a 
 full view of the sea. To the left is the winter 
 promenade, which is perfectly sheltered. Papa 
 went to the play in the evening. 
 
 Thursday., 10th. — I went out riding with 
 papa through a pretty and well cultivated 
 
83 
 
 country, but the pony threw me off on my 
 return. We supped at the archbishop’s. 
 
 Friday^ Wth .—Was out all morning. Papa 
 went to a concert at night. 
 
 Saturday^ IWi .—We all went in the evening 
 to a concert at the archbishop’s, performed 
 entirely by amateurs. There was a great deal 
 of company, and after the music a very hand¬ 
 some supper. 
 
 Sunday^ —At home. 
 
 Monday^ Wth. — We dined with Lord and 
 Lady Sunderlin, who with the Miss Malones, 
 his sisters, have passed some time at Montpellier. 
 We called upon Lady Louth and her daughter 
 (Lady Matilda Birmingham), and sat about an 
 hour with them in the evening. The latter is 
 in a delicate state of health. From thence we 
 called on the Comte de Perigord, to wish him 
 joy of the birth of a grandson, being the first in 
 the family. We also called to inquire after 
 Madame de Trincallion, the Bishop of Mont¬ 
 pellier’s niece, who had miscarried on her 
 journey from Paris. 
 
 Tuesday., Wth. — Madame de Rothe was so 
 obliging as to conduct us privately to see the 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 Assembly of the States, no one being allowed to 
 be present excepting on the first day, on the 
 opening of them. The Archbishop of Narbonne, 
 who presides when the Comte de Perigord is not 
 obliged to attend on bringing orders from the 
 king, is seated on a throne under a canopy. All 
 the bishops are ranged on his right hand, and the 
 barons on his left. Below them are placed the 
 other ranks of persons belonging to the meeting, 
 called the Tiers Etat. The coup d'oeil of the 
 whole is very imposing. The business of the 
 day was to choose Deputies for laying before 
 the king the affairs that had been transacted 
 during the sitting of the States ; it was deter¬ 
 mined by ballot, to preserve an ancient custom 
 of liberty ; but the persons were previously fixed 
 upon by the commander of the province, the 
 Marshal de Biron. They each addressed the 
 Assembly, to return thanks for being chosen, 
 and all the names were burnt in the middle of 
 the room. The Bishop of Comminges was 
 named to represent that body. The other I do 
 not recollect. We afterwards took a long walk 
 by Montferret,—mamma went on horseback,—and 
 saw a most romantic and wild country, abound- 
 
85 
 
 ing with beautiful views. The day was pierc¬ 
 ingly cold and sharp, the vent de bise blowing 
 very strong. 
 
 Wednesday^ l^th. — In the evening papa and 
 I went to the concert-, to hear a curious harp- 
 sichorp, on which there were fourteen different 
 changes, but they did not answer well. We all 
 supped at the Bishop of Montpellier’s, who has 
 an excellent house, and gave a handsome enter¬ 
 tainment. His niece was still confined. 
 
 Thursday^ lltli .—We supped with a large 
 party at the Intendance. 
 
 Friday^ l^th. — About six o’clock in the 
 evening the following persons came to drink tea 
 with us: — The Archeveque de Narbonne and 
 Madame de Rothe, Les Eveques de Montpellier, 
 Beziers, Usez, and Alais, with the two Grand- 
 vicaires de Narbonne et St. Passoul, and a 
 younger brother of Mr. Sheldon’s. I played to 
 them upon a small harpsichord, and nothing 
 could be more obliging or agreeable than they 
 were. We were very much pressed by the 
 Bishop of Beziers not to leave Languedoc 
 without spending a few days at his palace at 
 Beziers; but our time and plans would not admit 
 
 G 3 
 
86 
 
 of it. Our friends left us about half-past eight, 
 to adjourn to supper at the archbishop’s. 
 
 Saturday^ 19^A—We went to the play, where 
 we saw represented “L’heureuse Erreur,” and 
 “ L’Amant jaloux.” Papa supped at the arch¬ 
 bishop’s. 
 
 Sunday^ 20th -About six o’clock in the 
 
 evening we went to Madame de Rothe’s, to hear 
 three Italians sing; and after passing between 
 two and three hours there very pleasantly, we 
 adjourned to Monsieur de Perigord’s, who gave 
 a private supper, and which was also very 
 agreeable. 
 
 Monday^ 21st. — We took an airing into the 
 country, and walked- in the gardens of a 
 President Belleval, who has a very charming 
 retreat for the summer a short way out of town. 
 In the evening we went to a concert at the 
 Intendance, where there was also a private 
 supper. 
 
 Tuesday., 22nd _Most of the bishops and the 
 
 barons left the town. We went to a very hand¬ 
 some dinner at the Tr4sorier, Monsieur de Jou- 
 bert’s; and in the evening called on Lady 
 Louth, whose daughter was too ill to see us. 
 
87 
 
 We supped at the Bishop of Montpellier’s, where 
 we took leave of the archbishop and Madame de 
 Rothe, as they were to set out for Paris the 
 next morning. 
 
 Wednesday^ IZrd. — Madame de Joubert was 
 brought to bed of a son. We took a pleasant 
 drive to the Bishop of Montpellier’s country 
 seat, and walked some time in his garden, which 
 is laid out with great taste. There were many 
 flowers then in bloom, and beautiful and fra¬ 
 grant nosegays were sold commonly in the 
 markets. 
 
 Thursday^ _We went in the evening 
 
 the play, which was “ Le Chasseur,” and 
 “Richard Coeur de Lion;” the latter was 
 bespoke for us, as we had never seen it. Lord 
 and Lady Sunderlin, and the Miss Malones, and 
 a Monsieur Erbery, supped with us. 
 
 Friday^ — In the evening Monsieur le 
 Comte de Perigord, Madame I’lntendante, 
 Monsieur et Madame la Presidente le Gros, 
 with their daughter, L’Eveque de Montpellier, 
 et Monsieur de Trincallion, came to take leave 
 of us. 
 
 Saturday^ 26#^. — We left Montpellier, where 
 
 G 4 
 
88 
 
 we had passed so pleasant a month, and returned 
 by the same road to Nismes. On our arrival 
 the Bishops of Nismes, Usez, Alais, and Carcas¬ 
 sonne, called upon us, and we supped at the 
 Eveche. Mr. and Mrs. Standish, who had 
 given us the meeting from Avignon for a few 
 days, accompanied us to the bishop’s. 
 
 Sunday^ 21th .—We dined with our good 
 friends the bishops, and walked some time upon 
 the esplanade in the evening. 
 
 Monday., 2'^th _We dedicated this morning 
 
 to seeing the antiquities which the town of 
 Nismes has so justly a right to boast of. We 
 went first to the amphitheatre, a magnificent 
 building of an oval form, computed to have 
 held 20,000 spectators. There are ranges of 
 stone seats nearly from the top to the bottom all 
 round. The arena is shamefully filled up with 
 shabby looking houses, which, we were told, 
 were soon to be removed, that the coup d'oeil of 
 that superb building might not be interrupted. 
 We then went to the Maison Quarr4e, which is 
 the most perfect ancient edifice in Europe, and 
 very justly admired for its elegant form and 
 superior workmanship. It is of the Corinthian 
 
89 
 
 order, with fluted columns, whose rich capitals, 
 together with the frize and cornice, are most 
 inimitably finished, and in excellent preserva¬ 
 tion. It was built by the people of Nismes in 
 honour of Caius and Lucius Caesar, the sons of 
 Agrippa by Julia, the daughter of Augustus. 
 
 The temple, which is generally supposed to be 
 dedicated to Diana, near the head of the foun¬ 
 tain, is almost a ruin ; but the remains of an 
 altar are plainly to be seen opposite the 
 entrance. The vestiges of Roman baths were 
 found -within a few yards of that place, which 
 
 have been latelv rebuilt after the model of the 
 
 */ 
 
 old ones, but merely for ornament. They are 
 much embellished nvith shady and well-kept 
 gravel walks. The fountain is perfectly clear 
 and fine, and supplies the to-wn -svith good 
 water. There is a small piece of mosaic pave-’ 
 ment near the baths, which is greatly defaced; 
 but a much more perfect specimen of that 
 curious work has been lately found in the 
 Commandant’s garden, which has been copied 
 on printed handkerchiefs, one of which we 
 purchased. Upon a hill which overlooks the 
 city, are the ruins of what was supposed to be 
 
90 
 
 a watchtower or lighthouse (the sea being at 
 that time much nearer than it now is), called 
 the Tour Magne. In the evening we went to a 
 concert for the benefit of the Italians we before 
 heard at Montpellier. 
 
 Tuesday^ 29^/i. — We left Nismes about eight 
 o’clock, and went through Cauboussit, Taras- 
 con, St. Remy, and to Pont Royal by the two 
 Roman antiquities. The view of the village of 
 Boceaire, from the opposite hill is beautiful. 
 We crossed the Rhone in a ferry from thence to 
 Tarascon. The triumphal arch and mausoleum 
 near St. Remy are well worth the attention of 
 travellers. They were erected in honour of two 
 Consuls, Marius and Quintus CatuUus, who had 
 gained several victories. The former has 
 suffered much from decay, but the latter is in 
 good preservation, and is a most pleasing and 
 strikingly elegant building. The heads of the 
 consuls at the top of the mausoleum are modern. 
 The view is very extensive and fine from that 
 hill. 
 
 Wednesday^ ?>0th. — We went through St. 
 Canat to Aix, the capital of Provence, and the 
 seat of its Parliament; it is situated in a valley. 
 
91 
 
 much sheltered by mountains, excepting to the 
 south-west, which is a fine open country. We 
 went to see the cathedral, where there are two 
 large Roman gates richly carved in wood. The 
 font is likewise ancient, and surrounded ■with 
 columns, some of marble, and others of granite. 
 Provence is very mountainous and barren, but 
 aftbrds much variety to travellers. L’Eveque 
 d’Alais called upon us for a short time in the 
 evening. 
 
 Thursday^ Sis#.—Left Aix about nine o’clock, 
 and went through Pin to Marseilles, which is 
 one of the richest towns in France, with a fine 
 harbour, and commands an extensive commerce. 
 We passed through a very wild and rocky 
 country ; but the descent to the town, including 
 all the surrounding country, covered -with 
 bastiles or -villas, and a fine view of the 
 Mediterranean Sea, -with all the vessels and craft 
 of every description in full activity, was most 
 brilliant and strikingly beautiful. We arrived 
 at noon, in the full splendour of a glowing sun. 
 
 Friday^ February Is#.—A Mr. Bro-wn, Go¬ 
 vernor EUis, and a Mr. Schutz, called on us. 
 
 Saturday^ ‘^nd _Lord Cassilis and Colonel 
 
92 
 
 Macdonald called. We walked on the port, 
 which lies to the south, sheltered from winds, 
 and is crowded with people from all nations in 
 the world, many of them in their proper cos¬ 
 tumes. The show of. shipping is very fine, and 
 they have the advantage of unloading at the 
 doors of the merchants’ houses. The smell from 
 the harbour is very offensive, from a want of 
 attention in cleansing it properly. 
 
 Sunday^ Zrd. — Mr. Schutz walked with us to 
 Governor Ellis’s, and through the flower market, 
 which abounded with violets, jonquilles, carna¬ 
 tions, roses and anemones, &c., aU blown in the 
 open air. In the evening papa was presented 
 to the Duke and Duchess De Pille. 
 
 Monday^ \.th _Many of the gentlemen called. 
 
 Papa and I walked upon the port and to the top 
 of the tower, which commands a beautiful view 
 of the harbour. M. Grurier, an Italian master, 
 attended me for the first time. 
 
 Tuesday^ hth _Lord Cassilis, Colonel Mac¬ 
 
 donald, Mr. Brown, Mr. Schutz, Mr. Palmer, 
 Mr. Stirling, Mr. Kidsdale, and Mr. Wrey dined 
 with us. 
 
 Wednesday^ 6^/i. — After dinner, Mr. Schutz, 
 
93 
 
 papa, and I took a long walk out of the to-wn, to 
 see a procession which is annually made on this 
 day, although the origin of it is not known. 
 There was an immense concourse of people, and 
 the road doubly lined with carriages and horse¬ 
 men as far as the eye could reach. Several of 
 the marechaussee being amongst them, prevented 
 any disorder, and the evening being extremely 
 fine added to the gaiety of the scene. There 
 were many dressed in the Turkish and Gre¬ 
 cian manner. On our return, the Bishops of 
 Alais and Carcassonne passed the evening with 
 us. 
 
 Thursday^ 7 th. — Papa and I walked by the 
 Rope-yards to a hill a short way out of to^vn, 
 which commanded a magnificent view, and, on 
 descending it, we took boat, and rowed back 
 through the harbour, which is always striking 
 and interesting. In the evening we went to the 
 play, which was for the benefit of Madame 
 Ponteuil ; the piece was “ Az(imia.” The the¬ 
 atre is new and elegant. 
 
 Friday^ Sth. — Several gentlemen passed the 
 evening with us. 
 
 Saturday^ 'dth -Mr. Schutz procured us ad- 
 
94 
 
 mission into the Coral Manufactory, which is 
 curious. We made some purchases, and then 
 proceeded to Monsieur Paul’s, who has a good 
 house, with a choice collection of pictures. A 
 great many gentlemen dined and passed the 
 evening with us. 
 
 Sunday^ l^th. — We went to a Presbyterian 
 meeting, which is held near the town ; from 
 thence to see the Eglise de St. Victor. We de¬ 
 scended many steps out of the chapel to a very 
 ancient place of worship under ground, which is 
 said to have been the first Christian temple ; it 
 was built by the Romans, who, in the beginning 
 of Christianity, never permitted women to ap¬ 
 proach the altar. The same practice has been 
 preserved to this day ; for though mass is per¬ 
 formed daily in a beautiful chapel dedicated to 
 the Virgin Mary, no woman, we were told, had 
 ever set her foot in it. 
 
 We were also shown a miserable cell, cut out 
 of the rock, where Mary Magdalen was said to 
 have spent a great part of her time in prayer. 
 There were likewise many sarcophagi and 
 ancient tombs, very curious. We extended our 
 walk considerably, and took boat again at the 
 
95 
 
 bottom of the castle, which conveyed us to the 
 end of the port. 
 
 Monday^ Wth. — Mr. Schutz and Mr. Bro^vn 
 called to take leave of us. We left Marseilles 
 about eleven o’clock, and returned by the same 
 route to Aix. 
 
 Tuesday^ 12th. — Went through La Galiniere, 
 Pourcieux, and Tourses, to Brignolle. The 
 roads are rough and jolting, and the country 
 naturally barren, but, by the industry of the in¬ 
 habitants, rendered fertile in the valleys and 
 sheltered parts. It is very hilly, and affords a 
 variety of romantic views. 
 
 Wednesday., IWi _We set out about eight 
 
 o’clock, and went through Le Luc, Vidauban, 
 Le Muy, to Frejus. We were much detained 
 for want of horses, and did not reach Frejus till 
 ten at night. The road to Le Luc was tolerably 
 good, and lay through a kind of wild forest ; 
 from thence it was very bad. 
 
 Thursday., l^th .—We set out a little after five 
 in the morning, and went through L’Esterel, La 
 Napoule, and Antibes, to Nice. We passed 
 many remains of Roman walls, aqueducts, and 
 an amphitheatre, and ascended the mountains of 
 
96 
 
 the Estrelles for the first two posts. They are 
 of considerable height and beautiful form, and 
 covered with odoriferous and aromatic plants, 
 intermixed with different kinds of heath in full 
 flower. The road wound along the hills, com¬ 
 manding the most picturesque and interesting 
 views of the Mediterranean in all the openings, 
 and the plain, upon which is situated the town 
 of Frejus, and flocks of goats upon the crags and 
 hills, which greatly added to the romantic beauty 
 of the scenery. From L’Esterel to La Napoule 
 the road is chiefly on the descent, with a conti¬ 
 nuation of the same magnificent views. From 
 thence we entered upon an extensive open 
 country, extremely fertile, and abounding mth 
 beautiful prospects. The road lay, for a great 
 part of the way, close to the sea, and through 
 the village of Cannes, which is delightfully situ¬ 
 ated upon the coast, and perfectly sheltered from 
 winds. Antibes, a seaport, forms one horn of 
 the bay of Nice, and commands a view of the 
 bay and town, backed by hills, exhibiting a 
 beautiful picture. The country is finely culti¬ 
 vated all the way; and the road, which is ex¬ 
 tremely good, is bordered on each side by hedges 
 
97 
 
 of myrtles and aloes. We arrived at the village 
 of St. Laurent, which is at the extremity of 
 France, a little before five o’clock, and crossed 
 the Var, which was there very shallow, and di¬ 
 vided into many small streams. There seemed 
 little occasion for five guides, who, with poles, 
 conducted us through it ; but this river is so 
 excessively rapid after the melting of the snows 
 upon the mountains, that it renders the passage 
 very dangerous, at those times, for carriages. 
 We found pleasant apartments upon the terrace 
 at Nice, with the sea washing the foot of it; and 
 there were many English families residing in the 
 place, owing to the mildness and salubrity of the 
 climate for invalids. This day’s journey has 
 greatly exceeded every other through France, 
 from the beauty and fertility of the country, the 
 variety and magnificence of the scenery, and the 
 clearness and elasticity of the atmosphere, which 
 gave so much brilliancy to every object. 
 
 Friday^ Ihtli. — M. Ferraudy dined ■with us. 
 Papa Avent in the evening to an assembly at Sir 
 William and Lady Gordon’s. 
 
 Saturday^ l^th —We called upon the Gordons, 
 and took a walk upon the terrace and ramparts. 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 Papa passed the evening at Sir William Gordon’s, 
 who receives company every night. 
 
 Sunday^ 11th .—We took a long walk through 
 the park to the port, to see a large three-masted 
 English vessel, called the Canada. Papa and I 
 Avent on board her for a short time. In the 
 evening we paid several visits to the English and 
 French here. We were admitted to the Prince 
 Camille de Eohan, and Madame la Marquise du 
 Pont d’Oye, a Chanoinesse, who, with her brother, 
 accompany the Prince. 
 
 Monday., l^tli _Mamma and I paid several 
 
 more visits, and took an airing towards the Var. 
 Mr. Wrey, whom we saw at Marseilles, dined 
 with us, and in the evening some ladies called 
 upon us. 
 
 Tuesday., l%th. — Lady Gordon sat with us 
 some time in the morning, and about six o’clock 
 in the evening we went to a ball at Prince 
 Camille’s, which was very gay. Refreshments 
 were handed about during the dancing, and at 
 eleven we adjourned to a very elegant supper, 
 served on five small tables, which were joined 
 by green wreaths intermixed with flowering 
 heaths. The room also was hung with festoons 
 
99 
 
 of the same, and the lights hung from them, 
 which had a very pretty effect. After supper 
 dancing was renewed till about one o’clock. 
 Amongst other company there were Lord and 
 Lady Llandaff, and Mr. and Miss Matthew, 
 Lord and Lady Maynard, Sir Francis Vincent, 
 &c. 
 
 Wednesday^ 20^/i. — L’Abbe Bona gave me a 
 lesson in Italian. Papa passed the evening at 
 Sir William Gordon’s. 
 
 The 21st, 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, we were con¬ 
 fined by the badness of the weather. On the 
 latter day, being Sunday, the Rev. Mr. Wrey 
 read prayers in our drawing-room to the English 
 at Nice; and passed the remainder of the day 
 with us. Lady Gordon paid us a long visit. 
 
 Monday^ _We drove to the Var. Mr. 
 
 Buller and Mr. Wrey passed the evening with us. 
 
 Tuesday^ 26^A-Drove to the Var. Prince 
 
 Camille, Madame du Pont d’Oye, Mrs. Langford, 
 and Miss Sainsbury, drank tea with us. We all 
 adjourned to Lady Gordon’s. 
 
 Wednesday^ 27th. — In the morning we went 
 on board a large English ship called the Turin 
 GaUey, and in the evening to the gardens. 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 Thursday^ 2Sth. — Drove to the V^ir. Paid 
 several visits in the evening, and went to the 
 Gordons’. 
 
 Friday^ — We dined at Sir William and 
 Lady Gordon’s, and went with the latter to 
 M. Tondu’s assembly at night, where there was 
 a great deal of company. 
 
 Saturday^ March Is^.—Went out airing in 
 the morning, and to the Gordons’ in the evening. 
 
 Sunday^ 2nd _Mr. Wrey read the service to 
 
 us and other friends ; he afterwards dined with 
 us, as well as Le Comte and Le Chevalier de 
 Revel, Messrs. BuUer, Wrey, Sainsbury, and 
 Martin. In the evening. Prince Camille, Ma¬ 
 dame du Pont d’Oye, and Miss Matthew, paid us 
 a long visit. 
 
 Monday^ 2>rd. — Drove to the Var, and in 
 returning stopped, as well as the gentlemen who 
 were on horseback, to see a net drawn out of the 
 sea. We extended our drive on the Turin road 
 to see two beautiful palm-trees, which were 
 growing in a garden full of large orange and 
 lemon trees loaded with fruit. In the evening 
 Madame de Laval, L’Eveque de Nice and his 
 brother, and the Baron Grimaldi, called upon 
 
101 
 
 US. We went to the Gordons’, and found the 
 Prince and his party, the LlandafFs, Rosses, and 
 nearly all the English of the place. 
 
 Tuesday^ ‘ith. — In the evening we went to a 
 benefit concert, which was but indifferently per¬ 
 formed. 
 
 Wednesday^ bth. — We dined at the Prince’s, 
 and met Lord and Lady Llandaflf, Mr. and Miss 
 Matthew, Sir Francis Vincent, and Mr. O’Byrne. 
 Papa and mamma went early to the Gordons’, and 
 left me with the Prince, the Chanoinesse, and 
 Miss Matthew. We passed a very agreeable 
 evening. 
 
 • Thursday^ — The Gordons, Vincents, and 
 Mr. O’Byrne, dined with us; and in the evening 
 we had a concert led by Giardini, and a young 
 person of the name of Marianna, whom he had 
 instructed, sung admirably. We had a good 
 deal of company, and refreshments were handed 
 about. 
 
 Friday —About eleven o’clock, the Prince, 
 Madame du Pont d’Oye,and Miss Matthew, called 
 to take me in an open carriage, to see the Grotto 
 de St. Andre, a most beautiful place belonging to 
 the Viceroy of Sardinia. The road to it is by the 
 
 H 3 
 
102 
 
 side of a hill on the banks of the Paglion, and 
 the whole way varied by striking and interesting 
 objects. We alighted at the bottom of the hill, 
 and walked up to the house, situated on a rising 
 ground,VF about the middle of a long narrow 
 valley, which is terminated by the sea. The 
 view from the terrace in front is very fine and 
 picturesque. We continued our course on foot 
 along a narrow shelving path on the side of a 
 mountain, and were sometimes carried across 
 streams of water, to the opening of the grotto, 
 out of which issues a considerable stream formed 
 by a continual dropping of water from the top 
 of the rock; the inside of the grotto is very 
 much embellished, by being covered with a 
 delicate, pretty, creeping, and hanging plant, 
 called capillaire. The hills are decorated with 
 large plants of myrtle, rosemary, and other 
 aromatic shrubs; and the torrent forcing its 
 way against every impediment in the bottom, 
 adds to the beauty of the scene. In returning 
 we stopped frequently to admire the natural and 
 romantic prospects which presented themselves, 
 and which we felt quite unwilling to quit. Lord 
 Llandatf and Sir Francis Vincent accompanied 
 
103 
 
 us on horseback; Mr. Wrey, Mr. Egerton of 
 Oulton, and his tutor, dined with us, and ac¬ 
 companied papa in the evening to Sir William 
 Gordon’s. Mamma was seized with a severe 
 bilious attack, attended with a great deal of 
 fever, which confined us Saturday, Sunday, 
 Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday; 
 but on the latter day Lady Gordon and I took 
 a walk. 
 
 Friday^ 14#/i.—A very wet day. 
 
 Saturday^ Ibth. — Lady Gordon and I went 
 in the carriage to the Var. 
 
 Sunday^ l%th _Lady Gordon and I went on 
 
 the Turin road. 
 
 Monday^ 11 th .—We walked out together. 
 Mr. Penton read prayers to us. 
 
 Tuesday^ l^th. — Mr. O’Byrne lent me his 
 horse, and I rode out with papa and Mr. Egerton 
 towards St. Andr(i, and about the mountains to 
 see the picturesque views from different parts of 
 the country. They afibrd very great variety, 
 and all are beautiful. The gardens are cro^vned 
 with orange and lemon trees loaded with fruit, 
 many fine palm-trees and other kinds, full of 
 blossom, and the leaves nearly expanded. The 
 
 H 4 
 
104 
 
 corn was in the ear, the beans extremely high, 
 and in strong flower, and the peas were mostly 
 gathered. In returning, we passed the place on 
 which formerly stood the city of Cemenelion, 
 and went under a large arch, which was part of 
 a Roman amphitheatre, now in ruins. The 
 arena is cultivated, and produces different sorts 
 of grain. It belongs to a Count Gubernatis. 
 
 Wednesday^ l^th _We rode on horseback to 
 
 Montalban, a ruined castle, situated upon a high 
 rocky hill, it overlooks on one side the Valley of 
 Nice, and Bay of Antibes; and on the other the 
 harbour and town of Villa Franca, with a flne 
 expanse of sea. We rode down to the port of 
 ViUa Franca, and went on board a large Sar¬ 
 dinian frigate, built by an Englishman. The 
 road is scarcely passable for a horse, and the one 
 I rode losing its shoe on our return, made us 
 very late. In the evening, papa and I went for 
 a short time to Sir WiUiam Gordon’s. 
 
 Thursday^ 20th —About eleven o’clock I went 
 with Lady Gordon to hear high mass performed 
 by the bishop at the cathedral. All the clergy 
 received the Sacrament, and consecrated the oil, 
 which was placed upon the altar, to be ready 
 
105 
 
 for the extreme unction. When the service was 
 over, the bishop carried the Host, under a ca¬ 
 nopy supported by four men, round the church, 
 before which everybody fell on their knees. 
 The congregation joined in an anthem, which 
 was sung during the procession; and most of the 
 officers and people of the town carried large 
 tapers after the Host. The bishop’s servant 
 then conducted us to a very convenient situation 
 for seeihg his master wash the feet of thirteen 
 boys, who during the service had pulled off their 
 stockings and shoes from the right leg ; this 
 ceremony being in imitation of our Saviour 
 having washed the feet of his disciples the 
 evening before he was crucified. After the 
 bishop had performed it to these thirteen boys, 
 he gave to each a piece of money and a dinner. 
 In the evening I went to Sir William and Lady 
 Gordon’s, and saw from their windows several 
 different processions of religious orders, who 
 are obliged to go round to every church in the 
 town to perform certain devotions, it being 
 the eve of Good Friday. We attended them to 
 the chapel in the square, which was much il¬ 
 luminated. 
 
106 
 
 Friday^ 21st. —Mr. Penton read prayers at his 
 own rooms, which most of the English attended. 
 Afterwards papa and I walked upon the Terrace, 
 and in the evening went out airing with 
 mamma. 
 
 Saturday22nd. — M. Giardini and his little 
 companion Signora Marianna Lavonuti dined 
 and passed the evening with us. Sir William 
 and Lady Gordon, Mr. Egerton, Mr. Brown, 
 and the Chevalier Ferry, drank tea with ns. 
 
 Sunday2'^rd. — Being Easter Sunday, the 
 English assembled at our apartments to hear the 
 Service read by Mr. Penton, who also admi¬ 
 nistered the Sacrament. Mr. 0’B5rrne, Mr. 
 Egerton and his tutor, and Mr. Brown dined 
 with us. Mr. Penton came in the evening. 
 
 Monday.! 2A.th _Went an airing with mamma 
 
 on the Turin road. In the evening papa and I 
 and the Baron Grimaldi took a long walk round 
 the port, and went on board a felucca belonging 
 to Padrdne Bianchi. Lady Gordon, Mr. Penton, 
 Madame du Bourg and the Chevalier de Revel 
 drank tea with us. 
 
 Tuesday., 25th .—Went out of airing with 
 mamma. Sir Frederick and Lady Vincent, Miss 
 
107 
 
 Smyth, Mr. Penton, Mr, Egerton, and the Baron 
 Grimaldi came in the evening. 
 
 Wednesday^ 26^/«. — Went an airing mth 
 mamma. Mr. and Mrs. Penton, Miss Fuller, and 
 Mr. BuUer drank tea with us. 
 
 Thursday^ 27th .—Mamma was but inditFerent. 
 Lady Gordon and I paid some visits in the 
 morning. 
 
 Friday., 28^/t. — Lady Gordon went with me 
 to see Lady Rivers’ new house, which she has 
 built upon the road going to the Var. It was 
 then unfurnished, but the rooms were good, and 
 the garden promises to be extremely pretty. 
 
 Saturday., 2^th _Mr. Egerton, papa and I 
 
 rode out on horseback up a valley to see the 
 retired situation of a chapel dedicated to Mary 
 Magdalen. 
 
 Sunday., ZOth. —Mr, Penton read prayers again 
 in our apartments; and afterwards we went to 
 see a pretty manufactory of gauzes upon the 
 port. 
 
 Monday., 31s#. — Mr. Egerton, papa and I 
 began our ride at nine o’clock, to avoid the 
 extreme heat of the middle of the day, but found 
 that hour was not soon enough. We went to a 
 
108 
 
 curious place called the Dark Valley, which is so 
 narrow as only to admit one person abreast; and 
 the rocks are so extremely high on each side as 
 to render the space of light and air very small, 
 and damp, besides a continual dropping of water 
 from all parts of the hill. There is a consider¬ 
 able source at the end of the valley, through 
 which one is obliged to go splashing along. We 
 returned through a constant succession of fertile 
 gardens. Lady Vincent, Mr. Penton and son. 
 Prince Camille, and Madame du Pont d’Oye, came 
 in the evening. 
 
 Tuesday^ April Is#_Mr. Egerton, papa and 
 
 I got on horseback at seven in the morning, and 
 took a very pleasant ride on the mountains above 
 the Piedmont road. We passed a small chapel 
 nearly on the summit of one, called L’Eglise de 
 St. Aubert, from whence there is a fine view; 
 but it is much more extensive from the very top, 
 as it co mm ands the whole Valley of St. Andre, 
 and the little village of Falicon upon an immense 
 rock close to it. We returned home to breakfast; 
 and about noon. Lady Gordon, Prince Camille, 
 and Madame du Pont d’Oye, Lord Llandaff, 
 and Miss Matthews, called upon us. Papa and I 
 
109 
 
 called to take leave of Lady Rivers and Lady 
 Ross. 
 
 Wednesday^ 'ind _We did not go out, but 
 
 most of the English called to take leave of us; 
 Mr. Cholmondeley and Mr. Leicester amongst 
 the rest, who had arrived at Nice a few days 
 before. 
 
 Thursday^ Zrd _Our intention being to go to 
 
 Genoa by sea, we hired two feluccas, one for our 
 carriage and baggage, and another for ourselves; 
 the latter belonged to Padrone Puoci, an expe¬ 
 rienced, clever captain, with a steady crew of 
 ten men, three of whom were his sons, and the 
 others his relations. We set out at half past six 
 o’clock on a glorious morning, and with a favour¬ 
 able wind, meaning not to go ashore till we 
 landed at our destined port; but during the 
 night, or rather between three or four o’clock of 
 the morning of the 4th, the wind changed, 
 after passing the Capo di Mille. By the help of 
 oars the men rowed us round the Capo di Noli; 
 but we were obliged to put in at a small fishing 
 to’^vn of the same name. We had passed the 
 towns of Villa Franca, Monaco, Menton, Yinti- 
 miglia, St. Remo, Porto Mauricio, Oneglia, Diana, 
 
110 
 
 Cerve, Albenga, and Finale. Monaco is prettily 
 situated on a rock that projects into the sea; the 
 prince’s palace makes a conspicuous figure. 
 Menton also belongs to the Prince of Monaco. 
 The town of Vintimiglia takes its name from 
 being at the distance of twenty miles from Nice, 
 and is at the beginning of the Genoese territory. 
 The Capo di Noli is dangerous to pass in stormy 
 weather, the sea being always rough by the 
 violence with which it dashes against the rocks 
 that form the cape. There is something tre¬ 
 mendous in the loud hollow sound of the waves 
 continually forcing their Avay into the extreme 
 cavities of the rocks, but no danger, unless 
 attended by sudden gusts of wind. Our accom¬ 
 modations at Noli were not good; but as we 
 had our own provisions in the boat, we fared 
 well, everything at the inn being neat and 
 clean. 
 
 Friday^ 4^/i. — The wind being still adverse 
 our Padrones advised us to remain at Noli till 
 the next morning. We took a pleasant walk 
 about the mountains, which commanded the 
 town, and which, though small, is neat and 
 prettily situated in a fine bay. About the 
 
Ill 
 
 middle of the day there was a violent storm of 
 thunder and lightning. 
 
 Saturday^ htli. — At five in the morning we 
 were summoned into the boat, with a strong 
 side-wind from land, which did not much 
 advance our progress, and obliged us to sail with 
 one side of the felucca nearly under water. It 
 snowed upon the mountain's towards Genoa; and 
 our Padrone, forseeing a storm, reconducted us 
 back to Savona, where we arrived about two 
 o’clock, and found bad and disagreeable accom¬ 
 modations at the post-house. 
 
 Sunday^ ^th. — A contrary wind obliged us to 
 give up the thoughts of proceeding farther this 
 day. The town of Savona is larger than Noli, 
 and has a convenient port. 
 
 Monday^ 7th. — The weather having much 
 cleared up, we embarked early in the morning, 
 although with a continuation of mnd from the 
 shore, and passed the towns of Albisola, Voltri, 
 Sestri di Ponente, and St. Pietro d’Arena, besides 
 the coast being almost lined with villas, belong¬ 
 ing to the Genoese nobility. The sea was rough 
 in the Bay of Genoa; but the town presented the 
 most beautiful appearance that can be imagined. 
 
112 
 
 —the houses rising from the water’s edge in the 
 form of an amphitheatre to nearly the top of the 
 hills. After passing the principal lighthouse, 
 we entered the port, which is very spacious and 
 commodious, and arrived at the inn, where we 
 were extremely well lodged, about twelve o’clock, 
 klr. BroAvn, who arrived a few days before us, 
 called in the evening. 
 
 Tuesday^ Sth. —Mr. and Mrs. Sainsbury called 
 upon us. Mr. Brown accompanied us first over 
 the Ponte Carignano, from whence there is a 
 beautiful view to the church of the same name, 
 where there is a fine statue in marble of St. Se¬ 
 bastian, by Puget, well deserving the attention 
 of travellers. The church is plain and neat. 
 We called at the Hospital, which is a noble 
 building, and under excellent regulation. The 
 apartments are large and airy, and the patients 
 seem to possess every advantage that such a 
 situation can afibrd them. The exterior of the 
 Eglise de St. Siro is very beautiful, and the 
 double row of large marble columns are very 
 rich ; but the interior ornaments and ceiling are 
 much too gaudy and crowded. The streets, with 
 the exception of the two principal ones, — Strada 
 
113 
 
 Nuova and Strada Balbi,—are excessively 
 narrow. Those two consist entirely of magnifi¬ 
 cent palaces, chiefly faced with marble. We 
 visited the Carrega Palace, and one belonging to 
 Dominico Sera, both in the Strada Nuova. In 
 the first there are some very fine pictures by the 
 great masters ; there is a long suite of smaU- 
 sized rooms, but handsomely fitted up. The 
 other palace was smaller, but newly furnished. 
 The dining-room is oval, and elegantly gilt, and 
 the drawing-room is magnificent. The panels of 
 the windows and doors were painted in imitation 
 of lapis lazuli^ and all the ornaments and pillars 
 were richly gilt. The efiect of the dark-blue and 
 gold was very superb. 
 
 Wednesday^ %th _We joined a party to see 
 
 the Marquis Durazzo’s Palace, about three miles 
 in the country. It is very large, with a fine 
 garden in the front, the wall of which is washed 
 by the sea. The Marquis himself attended us 
 through his Cabinet of Natural History. The 
 entrance, staircase, and first room above stairs, 
 are grand and spacious. A few gentlemen dined 
 Avith us. 
 
 Thursday^ 10^/<.—About eleven o’clock aa'o 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 went to a convent of Dominicans to see a lady 
 first take the veil, and enter into her noviceship. 
 She was dressed very gaily, with a large hoop, 
 and quantities of flowers and feathers. After 
 taking leave of her friends (who were present at 
 the ceremony), she retired to have her decora¬ 
 tions taken off, and to be clothed in the habit of 
 the Dominicans. The ceremony was concluded 
 by the priest reading several prayers, and sprin¬ 
 kling holy water upon her and her sister nuns. 
 We had an opportunity of seeing, and being in¬ 
 troduced to, some of the principal nobility, who 
 attended the ceremony. We then went to see a 
 palace belonging to lacomo Philipo, and Jean 
 Luca Durazzo. The Marquis’s lady, whose house 
 we had seen in the country, received us very 
 obligingly, and showed us through all the rooms. 
 The staircase is very handsome, and all the 
 apartments large and well proportioned. There 
 are some good and pleasing pictures from the 
 Italian school, and the whole is fitted up with 
 taste and an appearance of comfort. Messrs. 
 Brown, Chohnondeley, Leicester, Egerton and 
 his tutor, dined with us. 
 
 Friday^ llth. — My cousin, Mr. Harbord, 
 
115 
 
 breakfasted with us, and accompanied us to see 
 the Palazzo Rosso, belonging to the BrignoUe 
 family, which is very large. At the top of the 
 house there are many apartments, fitted up in 
 the modern style, with great taste and elegance. 
 The pictures are in bad preservation. 
 
 From thence we went to the Palais Durazzo, 
 which is the finest and largest in the town. 
 They are both situated in the Rue Balbi. There 
 are twenty-five windows in the length of the 
 front, and it contains many valuable pictures. 
 The Annonciada is a church very well worth 
 seeing. The roof is supported ])y Ionic columns 
 fluted, and the flutes are filled in -with red and 
 white marble, which has a handsome appearance. 
 The cathedral is of black and white marble. We 
 dined at the consul’s, and in the evening went, 
 by permission, with a large party to see a cha¬ 
 rity, solely established by the family of Fieschi, 
 some way out of town, in which there are nearly 
 300 girls maintained in the neatest and most 
 comfortable manner. The situation is extremely 
 pleasant, and they seem to enjoy every conve¬ 
 nience ; amongst other employments, they make 
 beautiful artificial flowers. We then went to 
 
 I 2 
 
116 
 
 hear a little music at Jean Luca Durazzo’s, and 
 several English gentlemen supped with us. 
 
 Saturday^ 12^/i.—We saw this morning the 
 Palais Balbi, Palais du Doge, L’Albergo St. 
 Ambrocio, and L’Eglise de Notre Dame des 
 Vignes. The first is in the same grand style as 
 the rest, containing many fine pictures, but in 
 bad preservation. The Doge’s palace, very 
 near the cathedral, is all marble, and a strik¬ 
 ingly fine building. The first room, the Salle 
 du grand Consed, is very large, and adorned 
 with marble pillars, and gilding, very rich and 
 handsome ; the next, the SaUe du petit Conseil, is 
 also ornamented with great taste and elegance. 
 All the apartments are handsomely fitted up, 
 but without pictures. The Albergo is a hospital 
 or asylum for the poor and infirm, but inferior 
 in comfort or cleanliness to the Fieschi. It is a 
 fine large building ; and in the chapel is a beau¬ 
 tiful bas-relief in marble by Michel Angelo, 
 representing the Virgin Mary contemplating 
 our Saviour dead. The contrast between life 
 and death is finely distinguished. The Assump¬ 
 tion over the altar is esteemed an admirable 
 piece of sculpture by Puget. Notre Dame des 
 
117 
 
 Vignes is a very elegant chapel, with a pretty 
 altar. Mr. Harbord, and his companion Mr. 
 Zimmerman, dined with us, and attended us in 
 the evening to a concert at M. CafFerano’s 
 where we met many of the Genoese nobility. 
 The Abbes Spinola and Gandolfi delighted and 
 surprised every one with the powers of their 
 voices, and the taste and execution -with which 
 they sung. 
 
 Sunday^ IWi. — We paid a few visits in the 
 morning, and passed the rest of the day at 
 home. All our friends called to take leave of 
 us. Mr. Harbord and Mr. Zimmerman after 
 dining with us, set out in a felucca for Nice. 
 
 Monday^ 14^/i. — Papa not being well, we 
 postponed our departure till 
 
 Tuesday^ Ihth _We left Genoa before eight 
 
 o’clock, and passed the towns of Campo Marone, 
 Voltaggio, Novi, and Tortoni to Vogherra, 
 which we reached about seven. Between the 
 first and second we went over the Bochetta, a 
 part of the Apennines, very steep and barren, 
 although many of the mountains are planted. 
 From thence we entered upon the extensive 
 plains of Lombardy, which are highly cultivated 
 
 I 3 
 
118 
 
 and very luxuriant, growing every kind of grain 
 and vines. 
 
 Wednesday^ — From Vogherra we went 
 to Pavia, the first town in the Emperor’s states, 
 having crossed the fine river Po in a ferry. We 
 went afterwards half a post out of our way to 
 see the Chartreux, and changed horses once 
 between that and Milan, where we found excel¬ 
 lent accommodations at the Albergo Reale. 
 
 The country continued flat, but rich and 
 fertile, with very fine meadow land, watered by 
 numberless clear springs, and some rice-grounds. 
 The road is direct, broad, and good, and bordered 
 on each side by rows of trees, which were in full 
 leaf, and afforded a refreshing shade, the weather 
 being excessively hot. We remarked parti¬ 
 cularly the forward state of the oaks, which 
 were in full fohage. Through all the domi¬ 
 nions of the Emperor the postillions are clothed 
 in yellow faced with black, and instead of 
 making their way, or announcing an arrival or 
 departure from an inn with a crack of the whip, 
 as in France, they sound the horn, which is 
 slung over one shoulder with a black and yellow 
 cord and tassel. The Chartreux surpasses in 
 
119 
 
 beauty and magnificence any description tliat 
 can be given of it. The approach is by an 
 avenue of Lombardy poplars of an immense 
 height, and large as oaks. It is terminated by 
 the front of the church, which is most richly and 
 beautiful wrought of white marble. In the 
 lower part are medallions of the heads of all the 
 emperors and consuls of Rome; and above 
 them are bas-reliefs of their several victories 
 and triumphs. The ornaments to the windows 
 and doors are highly finished, and merit a long 
 attention. When the doors were first opened to 
 us, we were astonished at the coup d’oeil of so 
 much magnificence and grandeur as the church 
 presented to us, and at the infinity of highly 
 valuable materials with which it was so profusely 
 adorned. It is painted by Daniel Cresby; and 
 there is a picture in the sacristy by Golbo, a 
 scholar of Leonardo da Vinci’s. The altars are 
 all most elegantly inlaid with the choicest 
 marbles, and enriched with precious stones of 
 the highest value. The pillars are of polished 
 granite, porphyry, verd-antique, and brocatelle, 
 many of which have bronze capitals and bases. 
 The iron and brass gates and railings are greatly 
 
 1 4 
 
120 
 
 to be admired, likewise the bronze candlesticks, 
 which are extremely rich and finely worked. 
 The high altar is most superb: there are several 
 large squares of lapis lazuli upon it, and the 
 largest precious stones I ever saw; even the rails 
 were adorned mth them, and the natural 
 imitation of fruit and flowers in stones and 
 marble were admirable. There are many fine 
 pieces of sculpture, some by Michel Angelo; but 
 particularly a large alto-relievo in the vestry, cut 
 out of the teeth of sea-horses, which was 
 originally designed for the front of the grand 
 altar, and was made a present of to that 
 convent by Philip II., King of France. It is a 
 history of the Old and New Testament. The 
 ceihng is Gothic, painted dark blue, with stars 
 and small sprigs gilt upon it. The convent is a 
 fine building on the right hand, which we ladies 
 were not allowed to enter. It was founded by 
 the first Duke of MHan, who lies interred in the 
 chapel; and a magnificent monument of Avhite 
 marble has been erected to his memory. The 
 present Emperor has lately turned out aU the 
 old community, and replaced others, who are 
 now solely at his command. The poor monks 
 
121 
 
 had only a week’s notice to withdraw, and now 
 live upon a very small gratuity granted by the 
 Emperor, who has deprived them of immense 
 wealth, and their whole comfort. Many in¬ 
 genious families, who have spent their lives in 
 embellishing the chapel, are now nearly starv¬ 
 ing. The garden, which extends two miles, and 
 was formerly kept in the nicest order, is now 
 quite neglected, and some parts used for the 
 gro^Yth of different kinds of grain. 
 
 We found Messrs. Chohnondeley, Leicester, 
 Brown, Egerton, and Prieur, at the same hotel 
 at Milan with us. 
 
 Thursday^ \lth. —We went to see the cathe¬ 
 dral, Bibliotheque Ambrosienne, L’Eglise di 
 Santa Maria deUe Grazie, and St. Lorenzo, the 
 portico of which is formed by eighteen ancient 
 fluted marble columns of the Corinthian order, 
 supposed to have been the ruins of the Temple 
 of Hercules, which was built in the year 286, in 
 the reign of Maximilian. The cathedral is a 
 fine Gothic structure, not yet completed, although 
 it has been begun 300 years, of white marble, 
 with very elaborate ornaments, highly finished, 
 and much enriched, both in the interior and 
 
122 
 
 exterior. The staircase to the top of the steeple 
 is of beautiful architecture, extremely light and 
 elegant. The height commands a fine view of 
 the rich and extensive plain of Lombardy, 
 bounded by the Alps. Immediately under the 
 dome, on the pavement of the church, is a large 
 circular iron grating surrounded by rails, which 
 gives light to the subterranean chapel of San 
 Carlo Boromeo, who died in 1584, and lies there 
 in a crystal case set in silver gilt; he is dressed 
 in his pontifical robes, his cross and crown 
 much enriched with precious stones, and his 
 face uncovered. Upon the sides of the chapel 
 are eight bas-reliefs in silver; the first repre¬ 
 senting the birth of San Carlo; the second, his 
 presiding at a provincial council; the third, his 
 distributing ahns to the poor; the fourth, his 
 administering the sacraments to persons infected 
 with the plague ; the fifth, his being shot at by 
 Farina; the sixth, his transporting the relics 
 from the cathedral ; the seventh, his death ; the 
 eighth, his glory and ascension into heaven. 
 On each side of the entrance to the cathedral is 
 a large granite column, polished; and most of the 
 windows are of stained glass. The Biblioth4que 
 
123 
 
 Ambrosienne contains many valuable manu¬ 
 scripts, medals, paintings, sculptures, and na¬ 
 tural history. There are several good pictures 
 in the gallery, and a curious engraving upon 
 glass, the shades of which are given by the 
 smoke of a candle. In the refectory of Santa 
 Maria deUa Grazie is a fine painting by Leo¬ 
 nardo da Vinci of the Last Supper. We dined 
 with the gentlemen of our hotel, and went after¬ 
 wards to the opera. The theatre is remarkably 
 large, and handsomely fitted up. There are six 
 rows of boxes, forty-two in each. 
 
 Friday^ l%th —Staid at home; had a little 
 music in the evening. 
 
 Saturday^ l%th .—We hired three caMches, 
 and went mth the gentlemen before mentioned 
 to Sesto, a pretty village on the banks of the 
 Lago Maggiore, about thirty-two miles from 
 Milan. The view of the lake from the hill 
 descending to Sesto is very beautiful. 
 
 Sunday^ 20th. — Having furnished ourselves 
 with provisions, we embarked and went thirty- 
 three miles on the Lago Maggiore, to see the 
 Boromean Islands, the largest of which is caUed 
 the Isola Madre, a mile in circumference; and 
 
124 
 
 the lesser, Isola Bella, three-quarters of a mile 
 round. They both belong to the Boromean 
 family, who have a palace upon each. 
 
 We set out about seven in the morning, and 
 did not return to Sesto, till nine at night, but 
 were favoured with a beautiful moon. 
 
 We dined at the Isola Madre, which is a most 
 enchanting spot, combining much natural beauty 
 ■with great taste and cultivation. The gardens 
 are in high order, the walls covered with orange, 
 lemon, cedraty, bergamotte, and citron trees. 
 The island is well supplied with pheasants and 
 guinea-fowl : the house nothing remarkable, 
 excepting for a pretty little theatre; but the 
 view from all parts is very striking : the great 
 expanse of water, the beautiful banks rising 
 gently on aU sides, tiU they join the magnificent 
 Alps, the tops of which are covered with snow. 
 We quitted with great regret so delightful a 
 place; but evening coming on, we hastened to 
 see the Isola Bella, which is about a mile distant, 
 and although great art has been employed upon 
 it in rendering it as magnificent as possible, the 
 natural beauties of the other charmed us very 
 much more. The palace is larger than that at 
 
125 
 
 the Isola Madre, and contains many good and 
 convenient apartments. There are rows of ter¬ 
 races which rise one above the other from the 
 water’s edge, decorated with figures; and tlie 
 lower part of the island is converted into grottos 
 from whence issue fountains and different water¬ 
 works. 
 
 We saw both the fig and vine grafted upon 
 orange stocks, which were all bearing fruit; 
 likewise jessamine, rose, and carnations, upon 
 others. 
 
 In our Avay back Ave stopped at Arona, the 
 birthplace of San Carlo Boromeo, and walked 
 up the hill to see his colossal statue in bronze, 
 worked by a blacksmith Avith a hammer. It is 
 sixty feet high, besides the pedestal, which is forty. 
 It is dressed in the habit of a monk, his left arm 
 supporting a bible, his right stretched out. 
 There is great expression in the Avhole figure, 
 and being placed on an elevated situation, it is 
 seen from many parts of the lake, and forms a 
 handsome and interesting object. 
 
 Monday^ 2\st _Left Sesto very early, and 
 
 breakfasted at a small village about halfway to 
 
126 
 
 Milan, where we arrived between four and five 
 o’clock. 
 
 Tuesday^ 'i'2nd -Mr. Bury accompanied us 
 
 to see several churches, and the archbishop’s 
 palace, in which there are many good apartments 
 handsomely fitted up. We dined with the 
 gentlemen at the hotel, and in the evening went 
 to see a curious piece of architecture in the 
 Eglise de St. Fidele at one of the side altars. 
 The pillars are leaning, and there are two angels 
 in the act of placing them straight, and putting 
 their capitals on them. It has a bad effect, and 
 spoils the uniformity of the church. From 
 thence we walked along the Corto as far as the 
 Lazaretto, which is an immense square building, 
 round a fine meadow, which is now used as 
 stabling for the Gardes du Corps. It was origi¬ 
 nally built for the people at the time of the 
 plague at Milan. The place where the nobility 
 take their airing of an evening is a fine long 
 street, which is watered every day. There 
 were six rows of handsome carriages, many of 
 them attended by two running footmen to clear 
 the way. This parade takes place every even¬ 
 ing. Many of the ladies were in full dress. 
 
127 
 
 Wednesday^ 2^rd .—We took our leave of Mi¬ 
 lan about seven o’clock in the morning, and went 
 through Colombarolo, Cassano, Caravaggio, 
 Intignate, Chiari, Ospedaletto, to Brescia. The 
 country continues the same as from Genoa to 
 Milan, very fertile and well cultivated. The 
 roads are as fine as possible through the 
 Emperor’s dominions, which extend beyond 
 Chiari; but afterwards they become stony, jolting, 
 and bad. 
 
 Thursday^ ^Ath _Went through Ponte San 
 
 Marco, Desenzano, Castel Nuovo, to Verona. 
 The country becomes more unequal and varied 
 than before, is very fertile, and the country seats 
 are beautifully dispersed about. Desenzano is 
 situated on the banks of the Lago di Garda, 
 which we follov/ed some way; it is of great 
 extent, and famous for the number and excel¬ 
 lency of its fish. Verona is delightfully situated 
 on the Adige, which divides it in two parts. 
 We were very pleasantly lodged at the inn. In 
 the evening we went to see the amphitheatre, 
 the outside of which is not so beautiful as that 
 at Nismes, but the inside very superior. It was 
 built about the time of Domitian or Trajan, is 
 
128 
 
 of an oval form, and the most perfect in the 
 world. There are forty-five rows of seats, of 
 fine large blocks of white marble; and it is said 
 to hold 22,000 people sitting. In 1769, when the 
 Emperor gave a bull-fight, there were 32,000 
 persons standing. Over the two grand entrances 
 there are balconies with balustrades, in which the 
 Emperor sat. The governor and noblesse have a 
 right to it in general; and in the month of August 
 there are plays and operas performed there, and 
 the seats are entirely filled. It is particularly well 
 adapted to a public entertainment. We also 
 saw the Academia Phdarmonica, where is the 
 theatre, and many elegant apartments where 
 the nobility meet for cards, conversaziones, balls, 
 and concerts. There is an assembly every 
 evening, kept up at the expense of twenty-four 
 families in the neighbourhood. There is a 
 handsome portico, over which is the bust of the 
 Marquis Mafiei, a great patron of the arts; and 
 there is a colonnade of ancient pillars, which 
 forms a large square, under which are arranged 
 a variety of antiquities, amongst which is a fine 
 column of verd-antique. 
 
 Friday ’Ihtli. —- Left Verona about eight 
 
129 
 
 o’clock. It is situated in a fine cultivated plain, 
 much embellished with beautiful buildings, 
 which produce a delightful landscape. We 
 went through Caldiero, Montebello Vicenza, 
 La Kesiga, to Padua, which is a large toAvn, but 
 thinly inhabited, on the banks of the Brenta, 
 and is celebrated for the correctness and beauty 
 of its architecture. The country through which 
 we passed is flat, but extremely rich and fertile. 
 The whole extent of Lombardy is in the highest 
 state of cultivation. The trees are planted in 
 rows down the meadows and corn-fields, about 
 which are entwined the vines, which hang in 
 festoons from tree to tree; and between these 
 alleys the distant mountains are visible, embel¬ 
 lished with castles, convents, and churches, 
 which afford a constantly varying, and very 
 lively and interesting prospect. 
 
 Saturday^ 26#/i-We hired a covered boat, 
 
 and embarked on the Brenta about eight o’clock, 
 towed along by one horse. We stopped at the 
 village of Straa, about five miles distant, to see 
 the country palace of Pisani, a Venetian noble¬ 
 man, which exceeded in size and grandeur any¬ 
 thing we had before visited. The entrances, 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 staircases, and galleries, as well as the apartments, 
 were numerous, and upon a magnificent scale. 
 The gardens appeared quite in proportion with 
 the size of the house, and formed altogether a 
 very noble residence. After going other five 
 miles, we reached the village of Doglio, prettily 
 situated on the river; and at about the same 
 distance was Fusina. From thence we entered 
 the Lagunes, which were supposed to be formerly 
 lakes, that joined several islands, but are now so 
 completely inundated that they form a part of 
 the sea, which entirely surrounds the city of 
 Venice. The banks of the Brenta are highly 
 ornamented with villas belonging to the nobles 
 of Venice, — all the architecture of the famous 
 Palladio; and the country is fertile and pretty. 
 We were much detained and inconvenienced by 
 the number of locks we had to pass through into 
 different canals and rivers; and the wind being 
 against us, we were towed in by two boats, and 
 did not reach Venice till after six o’clock in the 
 evening. We found very agreeable and com¬ 
 fortable apartments at Madame Bon’s, which we 
 had previously engaged, upon the Grand Canal; a 
 necessary precaution in consequence of the influx 
 
131 
 
 of foreigners, but especially of English, who 
 come to Venice for the festival of the Ascension. 
 We left our carriage at Padua. 
 
 Sunday^ 11th _Having engaged a gondola, 
 
 we went early to a Greek church, to see one of 
 their grand ceremonies, it being their Easter, or 
 day of celebrating the Resurrection. It was 
 conducted with much pomp and magnificence; 
 but during the procession in the church-yard 
 there was a constant firing of small cannon, 
 which being unpleasant, we soon retired, and, 
 making a little circuit by the Place de St. 
 Marc, went home to breakfast. 
 
 The Rialto is a fine object from our windows, 
 being a high bridge of one arch across the 
 principal street, upon which are built a double 
 row of houses : it is more curious than beautiful, 
 and is often the subject of prints and drawings. 
 In the course of the morning we made some 
 calls; and the mode of conveyance, in gondolas, 
 being so different to every other, interested us 
 much, especially the expert and dexterous 
 manner in which the gondoliers guided and 
 directed their boats. One standing at the back, 
 behind the seats, is all-sufficient to convey you 
 
 K i 
 
132 
 
 to any part of the town; and he can direct his 
 gondola to a hair’s breadth, passing others, and 
 turning corners, with great speed and correct¬ 
 ness. The novelty of the scene is very striking 
 and amusing. In the evening Messrs. Brovm 
 and Bury, and Egerton, and Prieur arrived, and 
 found much difficulty in procuring lodgings, not 
 having previously engaged any. Papa went to 
 Madame Tron’s Cassino, having been acquainted 
 with her when last at Venice. 
 
 Monday^ 2Sth —We aU went to see the Eglise 
 de St. ]\Iarc, Santa Maria delle Salute, the Pa- 
 lazza Barl)arigo, and the view from the top of 
 the Tower, or Campanella, which commands the 
 whole town and islands adjacent. The Eglise 
 de San Marco, although very rich in gilding and 
 decoration, is too heavy and dismal to have a 
 pleasing effect. The pavement is Mosaic, and, 
 some years ago, must have been beautiful, but is 
 now irregular and uneven, owing to the piles 
 underneath having given way. They pretend to 
 many reliques, which are recorded in all the ac¬ 
 counts of Venice ; but their authenticity is very 
 questionable. Over the grand gates in front of 
 the church are four bronze horses, by Lysippus, 
 
133 
 
 which served to ornament many triumphal arches 
 of the Roman emperors ; but Constantine trans¬ 
 ported them, with the Chariot of the Sun, to 
 Constantinople, at the taking of which town I)y 
 the Venetians they were conveyed to Venice, and 
 placed where they now stand. La Salute is a 
 fine octagon church, containing some good pic¬ 
 tures by Luca Giordano. The architecture is 
 very handsome. The Palazzo Barbarigo is cele¬ 
 brated for having been the residence of Titian, 
 and where it is said he held his school. It is 
 situated on the Grand Canal, and contains many 
 of Titian’s paintings, and his scholars’; but there 
 is nothing else to admire. The English gentle¬ 
 men dined with us. In the evening we received 
 a visit from the Comtesse de Rosenberg and 
 her cavaliere servente^ 11 Signor Bcnincasa. 
 About ten o’clock papa and I went, by permis¬ 
 sion, to see a play j^erformed in Italian by some 
 Venetian ladies and gentlemen. They all ap¬ 
 peared to us to act well, particularly a niece of 
 Madame de Rosenberg’s, — Madame Carrere, 
 a very pretty woman. We got home between 
 one and two o’clock. 
 
 Tueaday^ 29^/u — This morning was occupied 
 
 K 3 
 
134 
 
 in viewing the Arsenal, which appears very 
 complete in all its various branches. The 
 armoury is very large, and kept in exact order. 
 Then the Bucentaur, a large vessel kept to 
 convey the doge when he performs the ceremony 
 of espousing the Adriatic. We went on board, 
 and found it a heavy cumbersome vessel, much 
 overcharged mth gilding and ornaments, about 
 100 feet long by 22 wide. There are 40 oars, 
 and 4 men to each oar. It never moves but on 
 the feast of the Ascension, for the above-men¬ 
 tioned ceremony. From thence we went to the 
 Eglise of San Giorgio Maggiore, situated upon 
 an island nearly opposite to the Place de St. 
 Marc. It belongs to a convent of Benedictines, 
 from whence there is a fine prospect of the town. 
 The architecture is by Palladio ; and it is one of 
 the handsomest churches in Venice. The great 
 altar is most singular, representing the four 
 evangelists supporting a globe of polished brass, 
 upon which stands the Eternal Father, all 
 bronze. In the choir are many fine bas-reliefs in 
 wood. After dinner we went to see the Doge’s 
 Palace, which is an immense Gothic building, 
 containing the different rooms in which the 
 
135 
 
 council assemble and transact business. On as¬ 
 cending the great stairs, you enter the gallery, 
 where are the lions’ mouths ready to receive any 
 anonymous letter of information against any 
 citizen of Venice, which gives one a dislike to a 
 government which permits such abuses to exist. 
 There are many fine large rooms, richly adorned 
 with carving, gilding, and excellent paintings. 
 Madame *&e Rosenberg brought Madame de 
 Lezze to see us, and we afterwards went to a 
 casino of ladies and gentlemen, who meet there 
 instead of their own houses. It is supported by 
 a society of ladies, who treat their cavaliers ; but 
 they are obliged to quit the rooms at two o’clock, 
 though they seldom assemble before twelve or one. 
 
 Wednesday^ 30tA_We passed this morning 
 
 in seeing the Palazzo Grassi, Palazzo Stefano 
 Pisani, and the Eglise of Santa Zaccaria. The 
 first is a fine i)alace, with a large collection of 
 pictures ; but the Palais Pisani is more to be 
 admired. The rooms are large and handsomely 
 furnished, with a good collection of pictures, and 
 at the top of the house is an immense library, 
 ^vell filled. The private apartments are particu¬ 
 larly neat and commodious. The Santa Zaccaria 
 
 K 4 
 
136 
 
 is a fine cliurcli, the front all marble, and the 
 altar extremely rich. In the evening we paid 
 several visits, amongst others to Madame Adriana 
 Papafava, who is the Presidente of the Society of 
 Ladies for the present year. 
 
 Thursday^ May Is#—We hired a large piotta 
 or boat, and went with a large party of English 
 to see the ceremony of the doge’s espousal of the 
 Adriatic. It was the finest day possible, without 
 a cloud ; and about ten o’clock we placed our¬ 
 selves close to the Bucentaur, which was waiting 
 at the doge’s palace to receive him and his suite. 
 It was covered with crimson velvet for the day. 
 When the party were on board, it moved slowly 
 to the Island of Lido, near to which, the back of 
 the doge’s seat being let down, he threw the 
 wedding-ring into the sea, pronouncing a few 
 Latin words, importing that it was a testimony 
 of his entire command and dominion over it. 
 The Bucentaur was accompanied by most of the 
 principal families, who ornamented their boats 
 with ditferent coloured silks, flowers, and feathers, 
 and vied with each other in the beauty of their 
 decorations. The boatmen were aU in livery, 
 but of the simplest and lightest kind. They 
 
137 
 
 wore Persian sashes, which were of the same 
 colour as their cuffs, caps and cloaks of their 
 stockings ; and it was altogether the liveliest and 
 gayest scene that can be imagined. The doge 
 was saluted by all the ships in the place, and by 
 all the forts, besides the regiments ranged on 
 each side, which were continually firing the feu 
 de joie; so that the roar of gunpowder was con¬ 
 stantly kept up. We took a walk round the 
 Place de St. ]\Iarc, in which there is a temporary 
 erection for the festival, of an oval shape, in 
 which are all kinds of shops, dressed out in their 
 best array, and coffee-houses ; and there are 
 piazzas entirely round, under which there is 
 always a great resort of company ; but the most 
 fashionable hour is late at night. In the evening 
 we went to the Corso, where all the world as¬ 
 sembled as in the morning, excepting the doge ; 
 and upon this occasion the boatmen and gondo¬ 
 liers show their agility and expertness in rowing 
 races. Our boat was engaged in one, which 
 would have been carried as far as Fusina, had 
 not our antagonists given up the contest. I 
 heard the scene compared to a shoal of fishes, 
 which gives a very good idea of it, from the 
 
138 
 
 number of small gondolas, as well as large boats, 
 and the swiftness with which they skim the 
 water. We concluded the day by going to St. 
 Marc’s Place, which we found still more beauti¬ 
 ful than in the morning, being highly illuminated. 
 
 There are seats for the company, and all kinds 
 of refreshments. All our English party dined 
 with us. 
 
 Friday^ '2nd .—We dined with the English 
 gentlemen. A storm of thunder and lightning 
 occurred in the evening from the great heat of 
 the weather. 
 
 Saturday., 3rd .—Papa and I called on Madame 
 Rosenberg, who showed us some beautiful small 
 rooms on the ground floor, painted by Signor 
 Cav. Francesco Fontanesi. In the evening she 
 drank tea with us, accompanied by Benincasa. 
 At night we went to the opera, where Rubinelli 
 sung exquisitely ; the piece was “ Arminio,” 
 with two delightful ballets, one was Shakspeare’s 
 “ Hamlet,” the other “ II Divorzio fortunate.” 
 The band was a very good one. We did not 
 get home till near four o’clock. 
 
 Sunday., Mli .—We devoted this morning to 
 seeing the Palais Falsetti, in which are admir- 
 
139 
 
 able casts of all the principal statues at Rome 
 and Florence, and also a choice and valuable 
 collection of pictures; but the apartments are ill 
 furnished. In the evening Signor Benincasa 
 accompanied us to the Mendicanti, where we 
 heard some very good music performed by a 
 band of young women; all the instruments ex¬ 
 cepting the wind instruments were played by 
 them. There were two very good voices, and a 
 third improving. From thence we went to 
 Senateur Quirini’s casino, which is extremely 
 small, consisting of only two little rooms. We 
 there met the Comte de Vaudreuil, whose house 
 we had seen at Paris: several French officers 
 were with him. 
 
 Monday^ htli. — Rubinelli dined with us, and 
 the English gentlemen. After dinner we went 
 to Mrs. Honblou’s, to have a good view of the 
 regatta, wliich was to be decided opposite to her 
 windows. There were six boats to row for four 
 prizes, and only one oar to each; very light 
 vessels. At night, Madame de Rosenberg and 
 Benincasa accompanied papa and me to a very 
 magnificent ball, given by the gentlemen of the 
 Philharmonic Society. Everybody was full- 
 
140 
 
 dressed, wearing sacks, and a great profusion of 
 pearls, diamonds, and other valuable ornaments. 
 The ball began about eleven o’clock, and we did 
 not leave it till six in the morning. There was 
 a great assemblage of company, consisting of all 
 the noble Venetian families who were married, 
 and the strangers. Behind ■ a grating were 
 arranged several gentlemen and ladies, who were 
 engaged to be married, and on that account 
 were allowed to be spectators of the entertain¬ 
 ment, but not to partake of it till the knot was 
 actually tied. The manner of dancing is much 
 slower than in England, and more depending 
 upon attitudes, which makes it much less gay 
 and lively than ours, although many of the 
 figures are the same as the English. I was 
 fortunate in having an excellent partner all the 
 time ; his name was Alberti. 
 
 Tuesday^ Qtli. — We remained at home till 
 night, when mamma and I went to see a tragedy 
 performed by the same ladies and gentlemen 
 whom we had seen act before, with the addition 
 of Madame Lezze, who took the principal part in 
 a translation from Voltaire’s “ Olympe.” Ma¬ 
 dame Corrair acted alone in the farce, which 
 
141 
 
 was a parody upon tragedies, and called “ The 
 Death of Alexander’s Horse.” It was impossible 
 i'or anything to be better performed, and it met 
 with great applause and admiration, from a 
 numerous audience. We retired about three 
 o’clock. 
 
 Wednesday^ 1th. — The gentlemen went to see 
 the Dykes, some twenty-five miles out of the 
 town. 
 
 • Thursday., ^th. — We went to the Island of 
 Murata, to see the manufactory of glass, and 
 purchased several parcels of coloured beads. 
 After dinner Benincasa took us again to the 
 conservatory of Mendicant!, to hear another con¬ 
 cert, which was most admirable. The three 
 lady singers sung single songs, duets, and trios, 
 incomparably. The orchestra was composed 
 entirely of young women, who played with great 
 spirit and correctness. We there met again the 
 Comte de Vaudreuil, Monsieur and Madame de 
 Jonville, the Comte de Paroy, and Comte de 
 Polignac, who travel in a party together. At 
 midnight papa and I went to a subscription ball, 
 which was held at the dancing master’s ; though 
 extremely pleasant, was not so brilliant as the 
 
142 
 
 former, owing to the ladies not being so splen¬ 
 didly dressed. It is not usual to change part¬ 
 ners but for the minuets, and I was unfortunate 
 in having one who only spoke Italian, which 
 prevented our having much conversation. He 
 was a Neapolitan prince, Le Due d’Aveline. 
 We retired about five o’clock. 
 
 Friday^ —Madame de Rosenberg, Signor 
 Benincasa, Madame Corrair with her singing 
 master, Madame Lezze and her little girl, Mr. 
 Bury, Senateur Quirini, and Le Comte de Paroy, 
 called in the morning to take leave of us, and 
 we had a great deal of music. Madame Corrair 
 sung delightfully, both single songs and duets, 
 with her master. The Comte de Paroy dined 
 with us, and we afterwards walked in St. Marc’s 
 Place. 
 
 Saturday^ 10th .—We took our leave with 
 regret of Venice, where we had passed our time 
 so gaily and pleasantly, and had received so 
 many civilities from the principal inhabitants. 
 
 Mr. Egerton, and M. Prieur accompanied us 
 in the same kind of large boat which conveyed 
 us doAvn the Brenta ; but on returning we were 
 obliged to be towed by a couple of horses. The 
 
143 
 
 day was beautifully fine, and the country in¬ 
 creased in luxuriance by a fortnight’s advance¬ 
 ment in the season. 
 
 We reached Padua early in the evening, and 
 were soon followed by the French family we had 
 met before. Les Comtes de Polignac and de 
 Paroy, paid us a visit, and hoped to meet us 
 again at Paris. 
 
 Sunday^ 11th .— This being Whitsunday, 
 there is always a large band of music in the 
 church of St. Antonio, with which we were 
 delighted. The music was well chosen, and in¬ 
 comparably performed. There are four fine 
 organs, two of which were only played this 
 morning; but the effect of the orchestra, both 
 vocal and instrumental, was admirable. The 
 church is much enriched and very handsome. 
 St. Antonio lies interred in a sarcophagus under 
 an altar, which is always illuminated, and from 
 whence it is said there arises a very sweet per¬ 
 fume. Many miracles are supposed to have 
 been worked since his death by his intercession ; 
 but that idea partakes too much of Romish 
 superstition to be received. We went also to 
 sec the Eglise de St. Justinia, which is of Pal- 
 
144 
 
 ladian architecture, but the interior not so richly 
 decorated as the former, although the altars are 
 inlaid with various coloured marbles. The Bo¬ 
 tanical Garden is extensive, and we got seeds 
 from it of several curious plants. The Corso is 
 well worth seeing; it is round, and ornamented 
 with modern statues of many great people, but 
 not quite completed. We here met a German 
 family who had been very obliging to us at 
 Venice, particularly a young person, a Madame 
 Nadaski, whose husband was in the army, with 
 the Emperor. In the evening we went in open 
 caleches to see a villa belonging to Senateur 
 Quirini, about two miles from the town, and 
 situated on the banks of the Brenta. The house 
 is small; but the pleasure grounds are laid out 
 with great taste, and are extremely pretty. 
 They are embellished mth elegant buildings, 
 and statues, and busts, some of which are an¬ 
 tique, and of great value. The walks are very 
 shady and refreshing for the summer season. 
 
 Monday^ I'iih. — We left Padua before six in 
 the morning, and went through Montselice and 
 Rovigo, to Ferrara, a town much to be admired 
 for the size, and regularity, and cleanliness of 
 
145 
 
 the streets. The front of the cathedral is cu¬ 
 rious and handsome, but nothing particularly 
 fine within. Opposite to it are a few bronze 
 statues, one of the Due d’Este, another the first 
 Duke of Ferrara, &c. 
 
 We found the country still rich and fertile, 
 but not so finely cultivated as about Milan, 
 Verona, &c. We ferried over the rivers Adige 
 and Po, and the canal Bianco. 
 
 I omitted to state that at Ferrara we saw the 
 church of St. Benoit, in which there are some 
 good pictures, and the tomb of Ariosto in 
 marble. We remarked the Diamond Palace, 
 which is so called from the marble on the front 
 and sides having all the diamond cut; but it has 
 too heavy an appearance to look well. 
 
 Tuesday^ \2>th .—We recommenced our journey 
 between‘six and seven, and passed San Carlo to 
 Cento, where we dined, and were much gratified 
 by seeing many of the works of Guercino, that 
 being the place of his birth and residence. 
 There is a picture in the Nome di Dio, and 
 others in the church of St. liosario, which are quite 
 beautiful. We were detained for want of 
 horses, and did not leave Cento till seven in the 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 evening, but had the advantage of a brilliant 
 moon, and went by San Giorgio to Bologna, 
 which we reached about midnight. We saw a 
 great many of the luminous flies, which are so 
 common in Italy; they are very pretty and 
 perfectly harmless, and easily caught. 
 
 Wednesday^ 14^/i—We went this morning to 
 see the famous marble fountain in the Piazza 
 Maggiore, one of the finest in Italy. It is 
 surmounted by a large figure of Neptune, which, 
 with several smaller ones, are of bronze, by 
 Jean di Bologna. The church of St. Petronio 
 is a noble Gothic structure, of fine proportions, 
 and great simplicity; but the high altar is 
 Grecian, forming a kind of temple, supported by 
 four Corinthian columns. 
 
 In this church the Emperor Charles Quint 
 was crowned by Pope Clement VII., and upon 
 the pavement is a curious meridian, taken by 
 Domenico Cassini. The rays of the sun are 
 admitted through a small aperture in the ceiling, 
 Avhich cross the line on the pavement exactly at 
 mid-day. There are generally numbers of 
 persons there at the moment, regulating their 
 watches and clocks. We next went to the 
 
147 
 
 church of St. Agnese, which is small, but richly 
 ornamented. We saw there a beautiful j)icture 
 by Domenichino. In the Palazzo Publico there 
 are also some fine paintings. In the Eglise de 
 St. Paolo, over the high altar, are two admirable 
 statues in marble by Algardi, representing St. 
 Paul on his knees, with his hands tied, and the 
 executioner with a sword in his hand, preparing 
 to cut ofi* his head. They are highly expressive 
 and finely worked. 
 
 After dinner we went to the Zampieri Palace, 
 which is full of choice and beautiful pictures, 
 and to the Academy, which appears well calcu¬ 
 lated for improvement in every art and science, 
 there being a separate apartment for each study, 
 and a very handsome library. It was founded 
 by Comte Marsigli. 
 
 Thursday^ Ihth. — We went to the Mendi- 
 canti, in which there are good pictures; and 
 from thence to the Egfise de St. Giovanni in 
 Monte, where there is a Christ cut out of a fig- 
 tree by Jean di Bologna, over a front altar. 
 The church is large and handsome. 
 
 We returned to the Academy, where we saw 
 the curious picture of the whole figure of a pope 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 in mosaic, admirably executed. At the Palace 
 Bovi there are some good pictures, as well as at 
 the Palazzo Tascari. After dinner we went to 
 the San Jesu e Maria, which is a neat church, 
 but too much overloaded mth statues. 
 
 Friday^ IQth .—We saw this morning the 
 Palazzo Monti P. Zambeccari, and Aldrovandi, 
 also the Eglise de St. Salvador, and San 
 Domenico. The latter is very large, and there 
 is a handsome chapel, containing the tomb of 
 that saint in white marble, richly sculptured; 
 and we heard the whole convent was extremely 
 handsome. The Inquisitors of Bologna have 
 apartments within it. San Salvador is one of 
 the finest churches in the city. The high altar 
 is extremely beautiful, and composed of the 
 choicest marbles. P. Monti contains a few 
 excellent pictures. We went afterwards to hear 
 some very good music performed in San 
 Giovanni in Monte. There were two organs, 
 many other instrumental parts, and several 
 voices. 
 
 The P. Zambeccari is famous for an extensive 
 collection of paintings, and in the P. Aldro¬ 
 vandi there are more well-sized and spacious 
 
149 
 
 rooms than in any we had before seen, and they 
 were elegantly fitted up. The gallery is ex¬ 
 tremely handsome. In the evening we went to 
 San Gregorio, and the Palazzo Ranuzzi, which is 
 immensely large, and filled with pictures, but 
 not of the finest kind. The staircase and rooms 
 are upon a grand scale. 
 
 We saw there four silver vases designed by 
 Guido. 
 
 Saturday^ 11 th. — We hired a coach, which 
 took us to the bottom of a hiU, upon the top of 
 which stands a convent for Avomen, called Santa 
 Madonna di San Luca, from the circumstance of 
 their being in possession of a picture of the 
 Virgin and Child painted by St. Luke. We 
 walked up the hill under a fine colonnade, which 
 extends for three Italian miles, from Bologna to 
 the convent. It was built by the liberality of 
 some of the principal families and religious 
 persons in the city, to be a shelter against all 
 the severities of weather for the holy picture, 
 which is carried to the toAvn in grand procession 
 every year upon the Fete Dieu, or Corpus 
 Christi. It has a very exalted place in the 
 chapel behind the altar, and is much adorned 
 
 L ;} 
 
150 
 
 with gold and silver, pearls, and precious 
 stones. 
 
 The view from the hill is almost boundless, 
 over an excessively rich country. We plainly 
 discerned Medina at a great distance. On our 
 return we visited once more the beautiful 
 pictures in the Zampieri Palace; and in the 
 evening we went to St. Michel in Bosco, which 
 is beautifully situated, and commanding a very 
 favourable view of the town and adjacent 
 country. The chapel is very neat, and the 
 gallery to the convent is above 400 Eoman feet. 
 On our return we saw the cathedral, in which is 
 the last painting by Ludovico Caracci, in fresco 
 —The Annunciation. 
 
 Sunday, 18#7t.—We saw the Palazzo Cap- 
 prari, which is very magnificent, as well from 
 the size, as the number of the apartments, and 
 all richly furnished. There is a long gallery 
 hung with trophies of arms, taken from the 
 Turks by Mar4chal Capprari; also a service of 
 plate, and other camp equipages, and glass-cases 
 containing different curiosities taken by the 
 same commander during the war. The pictures 
 are also very valuable. We went afterwards to 
 
151 
 
 the Palais Malvezzi, which is very inferior, and 
 little worth notice. The town of Bologna is of 
 great extent, and the porticos and arcades, 
 which are in almost every street, for the advan¬ 
 tage of foot passengers, give an air of richness 
 and grandeur to the whole. We dined early, 
 and proceeded on our journey through Samoggia 
 to Modena. The road Avas very fine, and the 
 country similar to what we had passed through 
 before. There was a violent storm of thunder, 
 lightning, and rain during the last stage, but it 
 Avas fine when we ferried over the river Panaro, 
 about four miles from Modena. 
 
 Monday., 19^/t. — We Avent to see the Ducal 
 Palace, Avhich is very magnificent. The apart¬ 
 ments are numerous and large, handsomely 
 furnished, and choicely filled AAdth pictures from 
 the best masters. There is also an extensive 
 library of several rooms. 
 
 We left Modena in the evening, and Avent by 
 Rubiera to Reggio, and Avere overtaken in 
 entering the latter by one of the most violent 
 hurricanes I ever remember. The thunder and 
 lightning Avas unremitting, attended by the 
 heaviest doAvmfal of hail and rain that could be 
 
 L 4 
 
152 
 
 seen. Soon after leaving Rubiera, we passed 
 the river Secchia by a ferry. It being the tune 
 of the fair at Reggio, there was a very good 
 opera, which we attended, and saw “ Catone in 
 Utica.” We sat nearly opposite to the Duchess 
 of Modena, who is an elderly person. 
 
 Her minister and counsellor. Signor Benin- 
 casa’s eldest brother, was very obliging and 
 attentive to us, in consequence of papa having 
 delivered him a letter from his brother at 
 Venice. 
 
 Tuesday^ 20th. — Signore Benincasa accom¬ 
 panied us through the fair, and to a few 
 churches, but in which there is not much worth 
 notice; he also introduced us to a Doctor 
 Assalino, who had been some time in England, 
 Between twelve and one o’clock we left Reggio, 
 and went through San Ilario to Parma. The 
 roads were fine, and the country rich. In the 
 evening we walked to a public garden belonging 
 to the duke, who has also a large palace there. 
 It was extremely pleasant; the walks were 
 shady and commanding pretty views, and great 
 taste was displayed in the disposition of the 
 ground. 
 
153 
 
 Wednesday^ 21s^.— We went to the Academy, 
 where is Correggio’s finest painting ol the 
 Madonna di San Girolamo, which we did not fail 
 greatly to admire for its fine colouring and 
 execution, though there appeared some distortion 
 in the attitudes of the figures. There is an 
 annual prize given for the best production of the 
 art, and a fine library belonging to the institu¬ 
 tion. The old theatre is the largest in the world, 
 and quite in an ancient style of building. It is 
 said to contain 4000 people, who can all hear 
 well, without echo, or confusion. 
 
 La Madonna della Steccata is the finest church 
 in Parma, the ceiling is v/eU painted by dilFerent 
 masters, but in bad preservation. The cathe¬ 
 dral is handsome, with a painted dome by Cor¬ 
 reggio ; St. Sepolcro also contains a fine picture 
 by the same master called La Madonna della 
 Scodella, because the Virgin holds a porringer in 
 her hand. San Rocco is a very elegant large 
 church, which belonged formerly to the Jesuits. 
 Over the altar in the church of La Madonna 
 della Scala is a Virgin and Child in fresco by 
 Correggio. This picture was the occasion of the 
 chapel being built. 
 
154 
 
 Mr. Bury and Mr. Brown, who arrived the 
 night before, dined with us. 
 
 Thursday^ 2'2nd. — This day being the Fete 
 Dieu, upon which they celebrate the Last Supper; 
 we were advantageously placed at the cathedral 
 for seeing the grand procession of both military 
 and religious companies, which parade the town, 
 carrying pictures representing the holy family, 
 and figures of our Saviour on the Cross, besides 
 the host, over which was supported a canopy. 
 The military band was a very fine one, and the 
 music performed in the cathedral extremely 
 good. 
 
 Friday^ 2?>rd _We left Parma about eight 
 
 o’clock, and went through Castel Guelfo, Borgo 
 San Donino, Fiorenzola, to Piacenza, where we 
 dined, and saw the cathedral. The dome is 
 painted by Guercino, and is in such good preser¬ 
 vation, that it has the appearance of being done 
 in oil colours. We proceeded in the evening 
 through Castel San Giavonni to Broni, where we 
 remained for want of horses, but were very ill 
 accommodated. The roads continued as fine as 
 possible, and the country most beautifully rich 
 and fertile, and in the finest state of cultivation, 
 with extensive views bounded by hills. 
 
155 
 
 Saturday^ 24^A. — Papa being very unwell 
 prevented our proceeding till 
 
 Monday^ 26#A, — When we set out at nine in 
 the morning, and went through Vogherado Tor- 
 tona, where we rested during the middle of the 
 day ; and in the cool of the evening reached 
 Alexandria, a fine town seated in an extensive 
 plain. The road from Tortona is good, but lies 
 across the country; and we forded several rivers. 
 
 Tuesday^ ‘21th. — We left Alexandria about 
 nine o’clock, and went through Filizanno, An- 
 noni, Asti, Gambetta, Poisino, and TrafPareUo 
 to Turin. As far as Asti we continued the 
 same cross country road, which was hilly, and 
 not very good. From thence it was as fine as 
 possible, and the country well cultivated, and 
 growing a great quantity of corn, which was 
 higher and finer than any we had before seen. 
 A short distance from the last post we passed 
 Montcallier, one of the King of Sardinia’s palaces. 
 It is situated on a very high hill, commanding 
 the richest view that imagination can form of 
 an extensive plain, well wooded, and watered 
 by the magnificent Po. It much resembles the 
 prospect from Richmond Hill, with the addi¬ 
 tional advantage of being bounded by the Alps, 
 
Avhose rugged tops are covered with snow, and 
 present a scene at once majestic and pleasing. 
 The approach to Turin leads through this beau¬ 
 tiful country, and the tomi itself is very hand¬ 
 some, backed by those splendid mountains. We 
 arrived there in the evening, having crossed the 
 Po over a brids-e. 
 
 o 
 
 Wednesday^ 28^/?.. — In the evening we took a 
 walk on the promenade, which is near to the 
 citadel, on each side of the Corso, where all the 
 principal people take their airings in their car¬ 
 riages. It is shady and pleasant; and every one 
 being full-dressed, both on foot and in their dif¬ 
 ferent vehicles, made the scene very gay. Mr. 
 Jackson, secretary to the embassy, called upon 
 and us, lent me his pianoforte during our stay at 
 Turin. 
 
 Thursday^ 29t/j. — Remained at home aU day. 
 
 Friday^ 30^A_We hired a coach and four, 
 
 and drove to the top of a very high hill, upon 
 which there is an elegant building called La 
 Superga, consisting of a church, with a portico, 
 and residences for a dozen canons, who are de¬ 
 signed for the highest situations in the church, 
 and are pursuing their studies for them at this 
 
157 
 
 place. It was built in consequence of a vow 
 made by the King Victor Amadeus, for their 
 deliverance from the French, who besieged 
 Turin in 1706. .In the sacristy we were shown 
 a beautiful chalice of silver, upon which were 
 embossed the Last Supper, and other sacred 
 subjects, finely executed. The ehurch is neat 
 and plain, with a high cupola ; and under it is 
 the burial-place of the royal family, which is 
 much adorned with gilding and various-coloured 
 marbles. The Court attend mass at this church 
 once a year, in commemoration of the day on 
 which the French were repulsed from the siege 
 of Turin. The view from this very elevated 
 situation is extremely fine, including a large 
 portion of the luxuriant plain of Lombardy, 
 backed by the magnificent Alps, with the to’svn 
 of Turin, and several country residences, beau¬ 
 tifully situated. We returned to dinner, and 
 were joined by Mr. Bury. 
 
 Saturday^ ^Ist .—We went this morning to see 
 the theatre, which is very large and fine, and to 
 the king’s palace, which is of simple architecture ; 
 but there are here, as in every other of the 
 king’s palaces, separate apartments for the king. 
 
158 
 
 his sister Madame Felicity, the Prince and 
 Princess of Piedmont, the Duke and Duchess of 
 Chablais, and the four younger princes, who 
 have the titles of the Due d’Aoste, De Mont- 
 ferrat, De G4nevois, and Comte de Maurienne. 
 They all live under the same roof, and meet at 
 their different repasts. The eldest sons of the 
 kings of Sardinia are called alternately Prijice 
 de Piedmont, and Due de Savoye. There is a 
 fine collection of pictures at the town palace, 
 and the apartments belonging to the late queen 
 are lined with Japan. The whole is in a mag¬ 
 nificent style, and the rooms look into pleasant 
 and extensive gardens. 
 
 In the evening we again had recourse to the 
 coach and four, and had a delightful drive to 
 Stupinigi and MontcaUieri, about nine miles in 
 all. The first is a hunting seat, in a flat situ¬ 
 ation, and entirely fitted up emblematically of 
 the stag chase, in which his majesty takes great 
 pleasure. In the centre of the house is a large 
 circular hall, which leads to all the difierent 
 apartments, and is the room where all the com¬ 
 pany meet to accompany their Royal Highnesses 
 to the chase. Everything bears the greatest 
 
159 
 
 appearance of comfort ; but the King’s and 
 Madame Felicite’s apartments are richly and 
 beautifully furnished with the work of that 
 lady, who has employed herself in embroidering 
 beds, hangings, and other furniture. Her own 
 rooms are furnished with knotting of various 
 colours, sewn in dilferent forms on lustring. 
 The king’s is a handsomer pattern of different 
 coloured satins, edged with a kind of twist, 
 which is raised, and has a very pretty effect. 
 The borders, tables, screens, &c., are of blue and 
 gold, with white medallions, which are very 
 elegant. The gardens are pleasant, and lead to 
 the forest, through which are cut long avenues, 
 for the convenience of huntino; and ridinsf. 
 
 Montcallieri is a very large palace, with a fine 
 gallery 400 feet long by 30 wide, out of which 
 is a terrace, from whence the beautiful prospect 
 is seen to great advantage that we noticed on 
 our approach to Turin. Many of the apartments 
 are newly and very tastefully fitted up. One is 
 particularly pretty, upon a lilac ground ; and in 
 that room is a Japan harpsichord of extraor¬ 
 dinary beauty. 
 
 I omitted to mention, that in the mornino- we 
 
160 
 
 went to the cathedral, which is an ancient build¬ 
 ing, at the upper end of which, beyond the great 
 altar, is the chapel of St. Suaize, which has a 
 singular dome ; and the altar is meant to repre¬ 
 sent the tomb of Christ, in consequence of their 
 being in possession of the napkin in which our 
 Saviour was wrapped at his interment. It is 
 preserved in a gilt glass-case, at each corner of 
 which there are lamps continually burning. 
 
 Sunday^ June 1st .—We went early to see the 
 Court, which generally reside at La Venesie at 
 this season of the year. It is about four miles 
 from Turin; a very fine palace, with more ap¬ 
 pearance of real convenience and comfort than 
 in any large house I ever saw, besides much 
 magnificence and grandeur. The gallery is 
 delightful, and very well proportioned; and 
 most of the rooms look into the garden, which 
 is laid out in the French style, and of great 
 extent. 
 
 The stables are immense, containing 400 
 horses, some from all countries. We were very 
 conveniently placed for seeing the royal family 
 pass to mass about twelve o’clock, during which 
 we took the opportunity of seeing their own pri- 
 
161 
 
 vate apartments, which are truly elegant and 
 delightful. The king was so gracious as to speak 
 to us, having been previously informed of our 
 names, and presented us to the Princesse de 
 Piedmont, who did us the same honour. The 
 whole family appear extremely amiable, which is 
 proved by the great harmony and affection which 
 subsist among themselves. We, being the only 
 strangers, preferred remaining at the door to 
 being within the room Avhile they were at 
 dinner, which we might have been, as they dine 
 in public every Sunday. 
 
 We returned betAveen two and three o’clock, 
 and in the evening Avent to see a smaller palace, 
 called Vigne la Reine, from Avhence the vieAv is 
 not so extensive as from other parts, but ex¬ 
 tremely pleasing, and the objects are more clearly 
 and distinctly seen. The apartments are very 
 neatly and prettily fitted up, and Avith many 
 pieces of beautiful furniture in them. The 
 pleasure grounds are very shady and agreeable. 
 From thence Ave went to the Valentino Gardens, 
 Avhich are on the banks of the Po, and most de¬ 
 liciously cool and pleasant. In the hot Aveather 
 they attract much company, from their shady 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 walks and enchanting situation. The opposite 
 hank is extremely rich, and the Convent of Capu- 
 cins a beautiful object upon it. Indeed, nothing 
 can exceed the beauty of the environs of Turin ; 
 they are so much varied, and all so interesting, 
 it is scarcely possible to say which to give the 
 preference to. The town is certainly the finest we 
 have seen in the course of our tour, and the 
 number of magnificent palaces around it add 
 greatly to its interest and beauty. The squares 
 are large and spacious, and the streets long, 
 ■wide, and regular, well paved, and kept ex¬ 
 tremely clean by a stream of clear water, which 
 runs do'wn the middle of each, by means of 
 which they are washed every day. All the 
 towns in Italy are much cleaner than in France, 
 and better paved. 
 
 We took a few turns on the Corso near the 
 citadel, which was particularly brilliant and well 
 attended, being Sunday evening. Turin is 
 better fortified than most to’wns in Europe, and 
 the subterraneous works are extended far into 
 the country. 
 
 Monday^ '^nd. —We hired horses to take us 
 all the way to Geneva, which is called going by 
 
163 
 
 voiturier. We had six to our coach, and others 
 for the servants ; and Mr. Egerton and M. 
 Prieur accompanied us .in the same manner. 
 The climate of Turin was so intensely hot that 
 we were not sorry to leave it; and having passed 
 Rivoli, where we quitted Lombardy, we stopped 
 for dinner at St. Ambroise, and slept at Suza, a 
 considerable town. Our accommodations were 
 excellent, at an* inn quite in a country situation 
 and close to a rapid river. 
 
 From Rivoli, the road lay through a valley, 
 which narrowed as we advanced, but afforded 
 many picturesque and beautiful views. In the 
 evening the gentlemen went to see a triumphal 
 arch, which is worth the attention of travellers. 
 The Bishop of Nice’s brother, who is an officer 
 and quartered in the town, called upon us, having 
 seen us at Nice. 
 
 Tuesday^ 2>rd _We set out between six and 
 
 seven o’clock, and arrived soon at Novalise, 
 seated at the foot of Mont Cenis, where our 
 carriage was taken off the wheels and carried 
 by mules between two poles ; the trunks and 
 luggage were also conveyed in the same manner, 
 and the four wheels were drawn by eight oxen. 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 The gentlemen rode on mules; and my mother, 
 myself, and our maid, were carried in a kind of 
 slight seat with arms, upon poles, and with a 
 small piece of wood slung by cords, to support 
 our feet. Several men accompanied us to relieve 
 the carriers up the mountain, and the road was 
 extremely steep, in a zig-zag direction, and very 
 much broken; as bad as possible. The heat was 
 so great on commencing our ascent, that we 
 were induced to carry umbrellas to shelter us 
 from the sun ; but before we had advanced far a 
 cloud or fog came over us, and it became so 
 cold and damp that the transition was very dis¬ 
 tressing. The waterfalls from many parts of 
 the mountain are fine; and all issue out of the 
 lake; which is on a plain on the top of the moun¬ 
 tain, from whence still higher hills arise, and 
 from which it is supposed Hannibal showed his 
 troops the fertile plains of Lombardy, which 
 they were going to conquer. We crossed the 
 Doria over a small bridge, which is the boundary 
 of Piedmont, and from whence we took our 
 leave of Italy and entered Savoy. About noon 
 we arrived at the Hopital des P41erins, which 
 stands just in front of the lake, and is an admi- 
 
165 
 
 rable charity, receiving all pilgrims or poor pas¬ 
 sengers, who are there entertained for three days 
 and nights free of expense, and put into a right 
 course to prosecute their journey. Near to it is 
 also a Chapel de Transis, where are buried all 
 persons who die, or are unfortunately lost in the 
 snow on their passage over Mont Cenis. We » 
 were very much pleased with our reception; 
 everything was so perfectly clean, and the good 
 priest seemed so desirous that we should be well 
 accommodated during our stay, which was oidy 
 for a few hours. The dinner was excellent; the 
 fish quite fresh from the lake, and everything 
 else equally good of their kind. The rain was 
 incessant, which was a great hindrance to our 
 enjoyment of our situation ; but it cleared up in 
 the evening, and a fine sun enlivened our descent 
 to Lannebourg, which we performed in the same 
 Avay by which Ave ascended the mountain. The 
 plain on its summit is a league and a half in 
 length. We found a great deal of snow on the 
 other side, some of Avhich Avas unmelted on the 
 road, but not in sutficient quantity to impede 
 our progress. The vieAA^s Avere much superior 
 to those on our ascent, but the fog Avas un- 
 
 M 3 
 
166 
 
 doubtedly a great hindrance to our seeing them. 
 The cascades were finer, the hills more covered 
 with wood, and the opening prospects more 
 varied and beautiful, especially one near the 
 bottom, where the road turns and lies across a 
 bridge, which is over a dashing torrent and 
 ^ waterfall, issuing from a hill covered with wood, 
 from whence there is a lovely view of the valley 
 in which stands the town of Lannebourg. The 
 carriers, or porters, are so much used to crossing 
 the mountain that they are as sure-footed as the 
 mules, and it is surprising to see with what 
 agility and safety they carry persons along the 
 road on the descent, which is as broken and bad 
 as on the other side; nothing can be apparently 
 more difficult. In the winter time, when the 
 mountain is covered with snow and ice, people 
 descend it in a kind of sledge, which is con¬ 
 ducted by two men, and they slide down in ten 
 or twelve minutes, the space which it takes 
 two hours to ascend. It is called in French se 
 faire ramasser. We were glad to arrive at our 
 night’s lodging, particularly myself, having been 
 suffering from the most violent headache I ever 
 experienced, supposed to have been owing to the 
 
167 
 
 great transition from the burning sun to the 
 damp cold fog and rain that came on as we as¬ 
 cended the mountain. 
 
 Wednesday^ Ath. — Our carriage and luggage 
 being all arranged and put together the evening 
 before, we proceeded on our journey before 
 seven in the morning, and went along the side 
 of a magnificent hill, covered with wood from its 
 summit to its base, which was a precipitous 
 depth below us. We frequently saw cascades 
 tumbling down rocks of immense height, and 
 rushing forward against everything that opposed 
 their course, then rising again in white foam, and 
 dashing with tremendous noise into the stream 
 below; others were following their course more 
 silently, and issuing higher in the wood, but 
 equally augmenting the river at the bottom, 
 which is called the Arc, and which keeps in¬ 
 creasing its waters till it falls into the Rhone 
 below Geneva. 
 
 It is difficult to form an idea of. the sublime 
 and picturesque effect produced by those snow¬ 
 capped mountains, which lose themselves in the 
 clouds, and are covered below with the greatest 
 variety of trees and shrubs, through which 
 
 M 4 
 
168 
 
 streams of water are occasionally forcing their 
 way, some with violence, others almost imper¬ 
 ceptibly ; but the impression of such scenery is 
 equally interesting and imposing. We passed 
 Bramant and Villarodin to Modane, where we 
 dined, and in the evening ascended the hill of 
 St. Andr4, passing that village, and St. Michel, 
 to St. Jean de Maurienne, where we slept. The 
 latter part of the way lay in a valley close to the 
 river Arc. 
 
 Thursday^ hth _We set off before six o’clock, 
 
 and pursued our route in the valley folio-wing 
 the Arc. We passed the to-wns of La Chambre, 
 Aiguebelle, and Montmelian, to Chamberry, 
 which, though a very ill-built to-wn, is situated 
 in a beautiful and finely cultivated plain. It is 
 much famed for its manufactory of gauzes. 
 We have been gradually quitting the Alpine 
 scenery, and entering upon a much more open 
 country, extremely fertile, and abounding in 
 rich parkish views. 
 
 About three miles from Montmelian, and seven 
 from Chamberry, stands Le Chateau des Marches, 
 belonging to the Marquis de Bellegarde; it is 
 situated on an eminence covered with wood, and 
 
169 
 
 is a very distinguished object. The verdure of 
 the country and richness of the foliage are very 
 striking on leaving the Alps ; and it appears in 
 the highest state of cultivation. 
 
 Friday^ &th _We set out about eight o’clock, 
 
 and passed the town of Aix les Bains to Reinilly, 
 where we dined, and in the evening proceeded 
 fifteen miles to Frangy, a miserable place, where 
 we slept. The country continues rich and in 
 fine cultivation, but not so varied as on the 
 preceding days. We descended a long hill to 
 Frangy. 
 
 Saturday^ 1th. — Meeting Avith such very bad 
 accommodation, we left our inn about five in the 
 morning, and arrived at Geneva about nine to 
 breakfast. We went to the Balances’, and found 
 everything neat, clean, handsome, and comfort¬ 
 able, quite in the English style. 
 
 About noon, papa called upon Monsieur et 
 Madame Saladin, the latter of whom being a 
 relation and friend, formerly a Miss Egerton, 
 was delighted to hear of our arrival, and soon 
 returned the visit, which was very acceptable, 
 after an absence of four years. 
 
 Sunday., Sth —After papa had read the service 
 
170 
 
 to us, he went to pay his respects to Prince 
 Edward, the King of England’s fourth son, and 
 was very courteously received. 
 
 We supped with the Saladins, and met there 
 Lord Thanet and Mr. Rippon, his companion; 
 and Mr. Frankland, Mr. Egerton, and Mon¬ 
 sieur Prieur, were of our party. 
 
 Monday^ ^th -Monsieur Saladin kindly lent 
 
 us his phaeton, with horses and driver all 
 English, and we took a very pleasant airing 
 near the lake, on all sides of which there are 
 country houses to let for the summer, most de¬ 
 lightfully situated. Many were taken by the 
 English. We passed the remainder of the 
 morning with Madame Saladin,and she took us in 
 the evening to a Monsieur Dupens’ in the country, 
 where the English frequently meet. Soon after 
 we were assembled, we adjourned to an adjoining 
 room, where refreshments were set out, con¬ 
 sisting of tea and coffee, all kinds of pastry, 
 savoury and sweet, and fruit, with a large bowl 
 of cream to eat with it. This is called a gouter 
 de Geneve. The evening being rainy, prevented 
 our seeing the prospect to advantage, and en¬ 
 joying the garden, and cards were substituted ; 
 
171 
 
 but we took our leave before nine, to return into 
 the town before the gates were shut, which 
 happens at that hour, and are never re-opened 
 till the morning. We supped alone with the 
 Saladins. 
 
 Tuesday^ 10^^_Monsieur and Madame Pitet 
 
 Tourtin called upon us, and accompanied us to 
 see a large machine across the Rhone, which 
 conveys water to the whole town. Madame 
 Pitet Tourtin afterwards accompanied us to a 
 few shops. 
 
 The Saladins drank tea with us early, and 
 afterwards took us to see some pretty places in 
 the neighbourhood. I was in the phaeton with 
 Monsieur Saladin, and much enjoyed the lovely 
 evening and fine scenery that presented itself. 
 We drove to Les Delices, but were not permitted 
 to see it; from thence to St. Jean, a lovely sum¬ 
 mer situation taken by an English family. The 
 view of the to^vn, and lake, and Glaciers, is 
 beautifully fine; and from another point the con¬ 
 fluence of the rivers Arc and Rhone, with their 
 rocky banks and vineyards, sloping in some 
 places to the water’s edge, form an interesting 
 prospect; and from every part of the pleasure 
 
172 
 
 grounds the views are varied and beautiful. 
 The evening being fine, we drove again to 
 Morillon, Monsieur Dupens’, and much admired 
 the situation, which is upon a gentle eminence, 
 commanding a considerable expanse of the lake 
 and adjoining country, but not equal to St. Jean. 
 Monsieur Dupens being a great antiquarian, has 
 furnished his house, and a large room in his 
 garden, with casts from many of the' statues at 
 Rome. We made an additional circuit in our 
 way home, and arrived just before it was dark. 
 
 Wednesday^ 11th -We dined with the Sa- 
 
 ladins, and met there Sir Cecil and Lady Bis- 
 shopp, Mr. and Mrs. Irwin, Lord Huntley, Lord 
 Thanet, Mr. Rippon, Monsieur Trembler, and 
 another gentleman of the place. After dinner 
 we saw the two Saladin children, a boy of three 
 years old, and a girl of thirteen months; and 
 afterwards went to the play, which was “ Me- 
 linade et le Somnambule,” extremely well acted. 
 
 Thursday^ 12th. — Monsieur et Madame Sala¬ 
 din, Lord Thanet, and Mr. Rippon, Messrs. 
 Egerton and Prieur, dined with us, and we 
 went in the evening to a concert at Monsieur 
 Pitet Tourtin’s, composed of amateurs, who 
 
173 
 
 performed admirably: several ladies both played 
 and sung extremely well, amongst whom was a 
 Mademoiselle Bertrand, who is soon to be 
 married to an English gentleman, Mr. Wickliam. 
 On our first arrival we were shown into a 
 pleasant room in the garden, and Madame 
 Pitet’s eldest daughter made tea on the terrace; 
 there was also fruit, with cream, cakes, &c. 
 Those who liked to remain in the open air 
 partook of the refreshments where they were set. 
 The rest were handed about to the company 
 within doors. The concert began between seven 
 and eight, and ended soon after nine. 
 
 Friday^ 12>th .—Papa and Monsieur Prieur set 
 out on a tour to the Glaciers, intending to 
 meet us again at Lausanne. We returned 
 Madame Tourtin Villette’s visit, who was an 
 Englishwoman married here. We also called 
 upon Lady Bisshopp, who lives with her family 
 at Chasubeze, about three miles in the country, 
 in a delightful situation ; and on the Saladins. 
 AVe passed the evening at home, and Monsieur 
 Dupens paid us a visit. 
 
 Saturday^ 14^A. — I went to purchase a few 
 Swiss prints for papa. Mr. Egerton, mamma 
 
174 
 
 and I dined alone with the Saladins, and went 
 afterwards to see Ferney, the place of residence 
 of Voltaire. The situation and grounds are 
 pretty, but not striking. In one of the rooms is 
 a kind of monument containing his heart, with 
 this inscription, “ Son esprit est partout, mais 
 son coeur est ici.” His body lies under a 
 mausoleum of the Egyptian shape, attached to 
 the wall of the church, which is close to the 
 house. We had a very pleasant drive home by 
 Versois, and passed several country seats agree¬ 
 ably situated near to the lake. 
 
 Sunday^ Ibth. — Madame Saladin dined with 
 us, and accompanied us in the evening to a 
 concert at Madame Tourtin Yillette’s, where 
 most of the ladies performed who played and 
 sung at Madame Pitet’s. 
 
 Monday^ l&th. — About twelve o’clock we 
 went to the cathedral, to see a number of prizes 
 given by the chief syndic to a selection of boys 
 from a school of 500, who had been the most 
 deserving for assiduity in learning and for good 
 conduct. All the magistrates attended, some of 
 whom made speeches in Latin, as well as the 
 head boy. The church Avas extremely crowded 
 
175 
 
 and hot, which induced us to withdraw before 
 the whole was finished. Early in the evening 
 we went to a delightful ball, given by Mr. and 
 Mrs. Irwin, at St. Jean, which all the English 
 attended, and Prince Edward, who was just 
 returned from an excursion to the Glaciers. 
 All the principal people of Geneva were also 
 there, and everything was extremely handsome 
 and pleasant; refreshments of every kind were in 
 great abundance, and the dancing was well kept 
 up, and very gay. The gates of the town were 
 shut at the usual hour, but the prince obtained 
 leave for them to be re-opened for the party at 
 eleven o’clock. 
 
 Tuesday^ \lth —About nine o’clock we quitted 
 Geneva, having passed ten days there very 
 agreeably, and with very kind friends. The 
 town is pleasantly situated in a rich valley at 
 one extremity of the lake, which is called both 
 Leman and Geneva, and from which issues the 
 Rhone, Avhich divides the toAvn in two unequal 
 parts, and joins the Arc a little below it. The 
 Rhone enters the lake at the farthest extremity 
 in a very muddy state, but deposits all its soil in 
 the lake, and flows from it as clear and pellucid 
 
176 
 
 as crj^stal, till it is mixed with the Arc, Avhen it 
 again becomes charged mth the mud and soil of 
 that river. To the east are the mountains and 
 Glaciers of Savoy, and to the west the hills 
 which separate the state from France, called 
 Les Monts Jura. The town seems a very agree¬ 
 able residence, with a good society, a theatre, 
 and the police under a strict and watchful regu¬ 
 lation. The government republican. The 
 territories are not extensive, but populous, and 
 they carry on a great trade in watches. We 
 passed the towns of Versois, Coppet, and Nyon, 
 to BoUe, where we dined, and from thence to 
 Morges and Lausanne, all beautifully situated 
 on the banks of the lake, particularly Morges, of 
 which there are many drawings taken. 
 
 Lausanne is about half a league from the 
 water’s edge, and so ill built, and upon such 
 irregular ground, that it is troublesome for the 
 use of carriages; but it commands very fine 
 views of the lake and adjacent country, for 
 which it is particularly admired, and it is highly 
 picturesque and delightful. 
 
 Wednesday^ 18^A. — Miss Smith, and Miss 
 Fuller called upon us. Papa and Monsieur 
 
177 
 
 Prieur returned from the Glaciers. The weather 
 was so hot that we did not stir out all the 
 morning. We drank tea with Miss Smith, and 
 walked afterwards to Miss Fuller’s beautiful 
 situation in the country, from whence there are 
 the most delightful views. We saw also some 
 very minute and highly wrought ivory, cut at 
 that place, but it is very expensive. 
 
 Thursday^ 19^A. —We breakfasted with Miss 
 Smith, and soon after dinner departed for 
 Vevay; but finding our accommodation at the 
 inn very uncomfortable, and the weather being 
 intensely hot, we shortened our stay there con¬ 
 siderably. The road to Vevay is as beautiful 
 and magnificent as can be imagined. The 
 scenery being continually varied and enriched 
 with villages, churches, country seats, &c., appear¬ 
 ing out of thick woods, and all commanding 
 beautiful views of the lake and mountains. 
 We passed the towns of Lutri, Culli, St. Saphorin, 
 and Corsin, all close to the lake, which we 
 followed the whole way. The ground rises 
 immediately from the edge, and is covered with 
 vineyards. Vevay is pleasantly situated, and is 
 clean and well built. On the other side of the 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 lake is Meillerie, and those barren rocks of 
 Chablais from whence Rousseau has taken the 
 story of Heloise. 
 
 Friday^ 20/A_Early in the morning we set 
 
 out for Bex, where we arrived to dinner. Near 
 Vevay we passed the town of Clarens, and soon 
 after that the Chateau de Chillon, which is 
 built upon a number of rocks near the edge, but 
 within the water of the lake. It is picturesque, 
 but has a gloomy appearance. Villeneuve is 
 beautifully situated at the utmost extremity of 
 the lake, near to which the Rhone enters it in a 
 very muddy state. From thence we entered 
 upon a fine plain, and passed Aigle to Bex. 
 After dinner papa and I hired a char-a-banc, to 
 take us to see the Salines. It resembles a sofa 
 placed on four wheels, with an oilcase covering 
 supported by poles over our heads, and a round¬ 
 armed seat for the driver. We were drawn by 
 a couple of strong black horses, who had a very 
 light, though lengthened, vehicle to convey, and 
 a very uneasy and jolting one it proved. At 
 the farthest point are the subterranean galleries, 
 cut out of the solid rock, where there are several 
 springs of salt water to a great extent and depth. 
 
179 
 
 and tlirongh which are conveyed large pipes of 
 the water to the place where it is cleansed and 
 filtrated, through a large stack of black and 
 white thorns. After that it is conducted to 
 another distance, where the salt is extracted 
 from the water by the help of fire, which eva¬ 
 porates the liquid, and leaves the salt precipi¬ 
 tated. It is sold much cheaper than in England. 
 The char-a-banc could not take us to the end, 
 which obliged us to walk up a steep hill of a 
 mile and a half in length, under the broiling 
 influence of a hot sun ; but when we arrived at 
 the mines, we rested to cool and repose our¬ 
 selves, and then put on miners’ coats to enter these 
 cold and damp galleries, which were also very 
 offensive from a sulphureous smell which arose 
 from springs of water that were charged with 
 sulphur. In one part we heard the noise of a 
 rapid river rolling many feet above our heads, 
 which added to the gloom and awfulness of our 
 situation, it being the only sound which dis¬ 
 turbed the dead silence of the galleries; and two 
 feeble lamps carried by our guide were all we 
 had to trust to for our safe going on wet planks, 
 as there was not a gleam of light, excepting 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 through a small peep-hole in the centre, 400 feet 
 above us, which was only calculated to show the 
 depth of the mines. The principal reservoir is 
 of inunense size, with a flat roof, without any 
 support, excavated from the solid rock. For a 
 more detailed account of these Salines, see “ Cox’s 
 Travels through Switzerland,” translated into 
 French by Ramond, who has added his own 
 remarks, vol. ii., beginning at page 14. letter 20. 
 
 Saturday^ 21s^—We set out between five and 
 six o’clock to see the fine cascade called Pisse 
 Vache, which falls perpendicularly from 80 to 
 100 feet from a rock, but has its source in the 
 Glaciers. The noise occasioned by so sudden a 
 fall is very great, and increased by returning 
 echoes from all the neighbouring rocks; and the 
 spray is carried to so great a distance, that no 
 one can stand in the direction it is driven by 
 the wind, without being completely wet. Papa 
 and I scrambled up a rock to admire it from 
 different points of view, and were much as- 
 ,tonished to find the volume of water so much 
 greater, and the cascade in all respects so su¬ 
 perior to what it appears from the road. The 
 way to it from Bex is through the town or 
 
181 
 
 village of St. Maurice, which has claims to an¬ 
 tiquity. It is situated between two immense 
 chains of rocks, upon the Rhone, which rushes 
 impetuously below them, and over which there 
 is a Roman bridge. The road is cut from the 
 rock by the same hands, and nothing can be 
 more romantic than the whole scenery, rugged, 
 bold, presenting fine outlines, and enriched with 
 forest trees and shrubs, wherever there is a 
 sufficiency of soil for their growth. The river 
 and to^vn, with its beautiful bridge, filling up 
 the interior of the landscape. 
 
 We dined at Bex, and returned afterwards to 
 Vevay. Our evening’s drive produced new 
 objects for our admiration, in the general gran¬ 
 deur of the country, and the rural and beautiful 
 effect of each particular scene. 
 
 Sunday^ 22nd .—We left Vevay, and dined at 
 Moudon, and proceeded in the evening to Pay- 
 ern. This day’s journey led us over a very 
 hilly country, and well wooded ; and the culti¬ 
 vation so perfectly neat, and the habitations 
 giving such an appearance of comfort and clean¬ 
 liness, that we had seen nothing equal to it since 
 Ave left England, with one exception, that of 
 
182 
 
 having no chimneys to many of the houses, so 
 that the smoke has no vent but through the 
 door or Avindows, which must be very smothering 
 to the inmates, and occasion a good deal of soil 
 in the interior. The views all the way were 
 extremely rich and fine. 
 
 Monday^ tZrd _We commenced our jour¬ 
 
 ney at five o’clock in the morning, and passed 
 Avanches, Morat, and Gumen, to Berne, where 
 we arrived to dinner, after breakfasting at Morat. 
 That town is situated on a smaU' lake of the 
 same name, and is parallel to that of Neuchatel, 
 into which it discharges itself by a river called 
 Broye. Near to it we passed a square building 
 close to the road and lake, which contains the 
 bones of all the men that were killed in the 
 Duke of Burgundy’s army, which was defeated 
 by the people of Morat, although commanded by 
 the valiant duke.- At Avanches there are several 
 scattered remains of Roman cornices, pillars, &c., 
 that town being a principal station of the Ro¬ 
 mans. At Gumen we only stopped to refresh 
 the horses ; but the road being still extremely 
 hilly, we did not arrive at Berne till after two 
 o’clock. The approach to it is very handsome. 
 
183 
 
 the road being good, with a convenient footway, 
 bordered on each side by fine trees. The whole 
 country is rich, fertile, and Avell wooded, and so 
 neatly kept in cultivation, that it gives it a su¬ 
 periority over every other. No cottage is with¬ 
 out its clear fountain; and the people, by their 
 dress and manners, have such an appearance of 
 originality, content, and happiness, that it forms 
 a strong contrast between the blessings of their 
 free government and the oppressive rule of 
 France. Papa and I Avalked in the evening to 
 the promenades, one of which is at the north 
 end of the town and the other close to the 
 cathedral; both of which command beautiful 
 prospects, the opposite bank rising quickly, 
 upon Avhich are scattered many neat and pretty 
 dwellings, and the river Aar flowing rapidly 
 in the bottom, with various windings. The dis¬ 
 tant country is Avell clothed Avith Avood, and the 
 whole bounded by the snoAvy Glaciers of Grin- 
 derAvald, Avhich form a most complete landscape. 
 We Avent afterwards to see the bears, a few of 
 them being ahvays kept alive at Berne, as being 
 the arms or badge of the canton. 
 
 Tuesday^ 24^4_We went again to the public 
 
 N 4 
 
184 
 
 walks, to take another view of the beautiful en¬ 
 virons of the city, and then descended to see the 
 baths, which are very clean and conunodious. 
 The sloping hill from the town is laid out in 
 gardens, in which there is not a weed to be seen, 
 but every part is kept in the highest order. We 
 walked a good deal about the town, which is 
 handsome and extremely clean; and there are 
 arcades for the advantage of foot passengers. In 
 the evening we walked to another promenade 
 some way in the country, from whence there are 
 different, but most beautiful, views of the town, 
 river, and adjacent parts. 
 
 Wednesday^ 25^/i.—We left Berne about seven 
 o’clock, and went by the last delightful prome¬ 
 nade to Walperswyl, where we dined ; from 
 thence passed several villages, within sight of 
 the Lac de Bienne and the Isle de St. Pierre, 
 and slept at Neuchatel, upon a fine lake of the 
 same name, the water of which is beautifully 
 clear, and resembling the colour of the sea; but 
 the banks and surrounding scenery are not so 
 interesting as what we had left. On this side 
 there are chiefly vineyards, but on the other are 
 the barren rocks which separate it from the Lac 
 
185 
 
 de Morat. The road from Berne is extremely 
 good, and leads through a continuation of fine 
 and well cultivated land, varied with rich and 
 beautiful prospects, which are very much em¬ 
 bellished by the picturesque effect of the Swiss 
 cottages and houses, which everywhere present 
 a great variety of form and outline, and give 
 an appearance of much comfort and cleanliness. 
 The towm of Neuchatel is not particularly at¬ 
 tractive. 
 
 Thursday^ 26#/«.—We proceeded on our journey 
 at half past six, and followed the side of the lake 
 till we began to ascend Les Monts Jura, over 
 which we travelled all day, on a rough jolting 
 road, and the ascents and descents were in some 
 places very steep, with precipices on the left 
 hand, descending to a valley watered by a clear 
 stream, on the banks of which were villages and 
 farms, surrounded with meadows and pastures. 
 The river is called Breuse. On each side the 
 hills rise ahnost perpendicularly, and are chiefly 
 covered with wood, which afford many romantic 
 and pleasing views. 
 
 We dined at Con vet, and slept at Pontarlier, 
 the first town in France, having entered that 
 
186 
 
 kingdom about a league from the town. There 
 being no posts established in Switzerland, we 
 travelled through the country by voiturier^ taking 
 fresh horses from every principal toAvn. We 
 quitted it with much regret, as well from the 
 magnificence and beauty of the views, as from 
 the cleanliness and civility of the inhabitants. 
 
 Friday^ 27th _We set out at eight o’clock, 
 
 and went by post through La Grange d’Alune, 
 Ornans, and Mercy, to Besangon, where we ar¬ 
 rived to dinner between five and six o’clock. 
 That town is so completely surrounded by high 
 hdls and rocks, that it is not visible till one 
 actually arrives at the gates. It is consequently 
 very singular and romantic. A fine river flows 
 gently in the valley, from which arise high 
 banks laid out in vineyards to a great extent. 
 The beginning of this day’s journey was through 
 a country well wooded and hilly, but without 
 much variety of view. From Ornans we shortly 
 ascended a long hill, which we were an hour and 
 a quarter in rising, although there were six 
 horses to the coach. The approach to Besangon, 
 winding along the hiUs, is extremely picturesque 
 and beautiful. 
 
187 
 
 Saturday^ 2Sth _We set out between six and 
 
 seven o’clock, and went through St. Vil, Or- 
 champs, to Dole, where we dined, and from 
 thence Auxonne, Genlis, and Dijon, where we 
 arrived about six. It is a large town situated 
 in a fertile plain, and capital of the province 
 of Burgundy, which we entered at Auxonne. 
 The country we passed through was very dull 
 and uninteresting, producing chiefly corn and 
 wine. On our arrival at Dijon, papa and I took 
 a walk round the town on the ramparts, 
 which are agreeable and pretty; and great 
 care is taken to keep the whole neat and 
 clean, which gives a handsome appearance to 
 .the town. 
 
 Sunday^ 29^^.— About eleven o’clock we pro¬ 
 ceeded through La Cude, Pont de Pany, and 
 La Chaleur, to Viteaux, where we arrived about 
 five o’clock, and remained for the night. The 
 country was extensive, but wasty, and without 
 variety, and the soil appeared more barren than 
 in other parts. We entered Viteaux in a storm, 
 which had already lasted near a month, and 
 which it was feared would injure the hay and 
 corn harvest in that neighbourhood. The town 
 
188 
 
 is in so low a situation, that we had been long in 
 descending to it. 
 
 Monday^ 30^4. — We set out at half-past six 
 o’clock, and Avent through La Maison Neuve, 
 Boursay, Cupy-les-Forges, to Lucy-le-Bois, where 
 Ave dined, and from thence to Vermenton, St. 
 Brix, and Auxerre. The country still Avithout 
 beauty or variety, but apparently more fertile 
 as Ave approached Auxerre. That toAvn is on 
 an elevated situation, and upon the naAugable 
 river Yonne, over which there is a handsome 
 bridge. The cathedral is a fine Gothic building, 
 but little ornamented on the inside. Our inn 
 was extremely pleasant on the banks of the 
 Yonne. 
 
 Tuesday^ July Is?. — We left Auxerre soon 
 after six o’clock, and went through Basson, 
 Joigny, Villevallier, Villeneuve-le-Roi to Sens, 
 where we dined. The situation of Joigny is ex¬ 
 ceedingly pretty, and the country varied with 
 wood, vineyards, &c. Having entered Cham¬ 
 pagne, the views became more pleasing. In the 
 evening we proceeded through Pont-sur-Yonne, 
 Villeneuve-le-Guiard, Fossard, Moret, to Fon¬ 
 tainebleau. The entrance to the forest is not so 
 
189 
 
 fine this way as that from Paris. Papa and I 
 walked round the gardens belonging to the 
 [)alace, which are handsome and pleasant. 
 
 Wednesday^ 2nd. — We set out about seven 
 o’clock, and took a difierent route to Paris to 
 that we had gone before. We went through 
 Melun, Lieu, Saintes, Villeneuve, St. Georges, and 
 Charenton. The country is pretty all the way, 
 embellished with gentlemen’s seats and woods. 
 We went through the forest as far as Melun, 
 and entered Paris by the Faubourg St. An¬ 
 toine. We had apartments for a few days at 
 the Hotel de Moscovie, till others at the Prince 
 de Galles were ready for our reception. 
 
 Thursday.! 2>rd .—Remained at home. 
 
 Friday.! —We removed to the first floor of 
 
 the Hotel de Prince de Galles. Dr. Gem called’ 
 upon us. 
 
 Saturday.! 5th -We paid morning visits to 
 
 the Archeveque de Narbonne and Madame de 
 Rothe, Duke of Dorset, and to the convent of 
 White Nuns in the Fosses St. Victor, where we 
 found Mrs. Lancaster, and all her community in 
 perfect health. Lord Fitzwilliam dined with us. 
 
 Sunday.! Qth .—We went to chapel at the 
 
190 
 
 ambassador’s, who had left Paris for some days. 
 We met Lord and Lady Radnor, and many other 
 English. Lord R. dined with us, and accom¬ 
 panied us in the evening to St. Cloud, a royal 
 palace about six miles from Paris, of consider¬ 
 able extent, and commanding a delightful view 
 of Paris and its environs. The apartments 
 were furnished with great taste and elegance. 
 There are very fine water-works in the pleasure 
 grounds, which were then playing, the largest of 
 which is called Le grand Jet. It is in a wood, and 
 throws up water to a great height, by which the 
 spray is conveyed to an immense distance, and, 
 when the sun shines, produces a beautiful rain¬ 
 bow, which was the case when we saw it. There 
 were others playing in various shapes, and all 
 collected in a large canal. We returned by the 
 Bois de Boulogne, which was full of parties of 
 the lower orders of people, dancing and amusing 
 themselves with different games. 
 
 Monday^ 1th .—We called upon Lord and 
 Lady Radnor, and went to a china shop in the 
 Rue Bondi, behind the opera, of the manufactory 
 of the Due d’Angouleme. In the evening papa 
 and I visited the Archbishop of Narbonne and 
 
191 
 
 Madame de Rothe, and Monsieur and Madame 
 Gabet. Mr. Bury drank tea with us. 
 
 Tuesday^ Sth .— Went to a few shops in the 
 morning, and dined at the archbishop’s, where 
 we met Mr. and Mrs. Charles Sheldon, Mr. 
 George Sheldon, L’Abbe Henri Dillon, and two 
 other gentlemen. In the evening came L’Abbe 
 de St. Sauveur, and the Abbe Dillon, Henri’s 
 eldest brother. 
 
 Wednesday^ -Dr. Gem dined with us, 
 
 and papa and I went in the evening to the 
 Italian Theatre, where we saw acted “ Richard 
 Coeur de Lion,” a most interesting piece, and 
 incomparably performed. 
 
 Thursday^ \0th. —Mr. Gould called, and Lord 
 Fitzwilliam dined with us. In the evening; 
 mamma and I went to the archbishop’s, and drank 
 tea with Sir Edward and Lady Dering. We 
 sat in the garden till after dark, the evening 
 being quite delicious. 
 
 Friday^ l\th. — Our morning was chiefly 
 occupied in shopping. About four o’clock Lord 
 Fitzwilliam called, and accompanied papa and me 
 to the opera, where we placed ourselves in the 
 most advantageous situation, the front row in 
 
192 
 
 the amphitheatre. The opera was “ CEdipe a 
 Colonne,” with mucli fine dancing, as Vestris, 
 Coidon, and Hillisberg, made their first appear¬ 
 ance on their return from London. No spectacle 
 can be finer than the opera at Paris. The 
 decorations are superb, the stage extremely well 
 filled, the dresses beautiful, and the characters 
 well supported. When it was over. Lord 
 Fitzwilliam, papa, and I, resorted to the Palais 
 Royal, which is lighted up every evening, and 
 made very brilliant. We placed ourselves 
 under a Grecian canopy, and round a small 
 green table, where we were provided with every 
 delicacy and refreshment we wished for, from a 
 cafe close by. After our little collation, we 
 walked about this gay and pretty place, where 
 there are rows of trees forming promenades, and 
 a great concourse of company, which add to the 
 splendour and novelty of the scene, and which 
 may fairly be said to realise the descriptions 
 given in the Persian and Arabian tales. 
 
 Saturday^ I2th .—We dined at the Archbishop 
 of Narbonne’s, and found all the shutters shut, 
 and the rooms nearly dark, to exclude the over¬ 
 powering heat of the sun and hot air, which 
 
193 
 
 answered effectually. We were delighted with 
 the refreshing coolness of all the apartments, 
 having previously suffered greatly from the 
 extreme closeness and heat of the weather. The 
 party consisted of Mr. C. Jerningham, L’Eveque 
 de Lombez, Les Abbes Dillon, Lomenie, Bois- 
 gelin, St. Geyrac, St. Sauveur, Col. DiUon, and 
 his brother Frank. After dinner the gentlemen 
 played at billiards; and between six and seven 
 we returned home. Mr. Gould called in the 
 evening, and accompanied us to the Boulevards, 
 and to the Palais Royal, which was as gay and 
 pleasant as before. 
 
 Sunday^ l^th — Lord Fitzwilliam breakfasted 
 and passed the day with us. We attended ser¬ 
 vice at the Duke of Dorset’s chapel, where there 
 was a numerous assemblage of English ; and ' 
 from thence went to see the Eglise de St. Roc, 
 where there is, behind the altar, a representation 
 of Mount Calvary, with our Saviour on the 
 Cross, and Mary Magdalen at his feet, as well 
 as two soldiers, whose attitudes are finely ex¬ 
 pressed. At the bottom of the rock there is a 
 sarcophagus of black marble, with a few small 
 lamps burning on each side of it. The light is 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 well thro’vvii on the two principal figures, and 
 the whole has a very solemn and awful appear¬ 
 ance. The Abb6 Chaupy was added to our 
 party at dinner ; and in the evening Lord Fitz- 
 Avilliam accompanied us to Le Rainsy; but not 
 having especial permission to see the place, and 
 the Duke of Orleans being expected the next 
 morning, we were only admitted into a few of the 
 apartments, which were very elegantly fitted up. 
 The kitchen is extremely spacious and conve¬ 
 nient. The garden was laid out in the English 
 style, and commanded a fine distant prospect. 
 All the plants and forest trees had sufiered 
 greatly from the hail-storm, which fell the 
 evening before, and that morning. The violence 
 of it began at the Faubourg St. Antoine, and 
 took the direction of Vincennes, Le Rainsy, and 
 Mont Fermeille. There were above 850 panes and 
 squares of glass demolished at Le Rainsy, by the 
 immense pieces of ice which fell, and cut every¬ 
 thing that was in the way. Great quantities of 
 game perished, and numbers of poor families 
 were ruined by the devastation it made of their 
 property, in vineyards, corn, and gardens. 
 Subscriptions were proposed for the support of 
 
195 
 
 these unfortunate persons, but that would very 
 slightly compensate for the dreadful losses they 
 had sustained. 
 
 Monday^ \^th. — We saw this morning, L’E- 
 glise de St. Eustache, which is the most ancient 
 in Paris, and is a finely proportioned, handsome 
 Gothic church: also the Nouvelle Halle, where all 
 the grain is kept; it is of a circular form, and 
 much admired, and is a spacious magnificent 
 building covered with lead. From thence to 
 the Duke of Orleans’ palace, at the Palais Royal, 
 which is superbly furnished, and contains a 
 valuable collection of pictures : we also saw the 
 interior of what he has lately erected in the 
 middle of his large garden, which is extremely 
 elegant, but the use of it is as yet only known 
 to the Duke ; it is surrounded with water, into 
 which fountains are playing, which give rise to 
 its being called a coche d’eau. In the evening 
 we walked in the Jardin du Roi, and returned 
 home by Les Nouveaux Boulevards, which are 
 very pleasant. 
 
 Tuesday^ Ihtli. — Papa went with Lord Fitz- 
 william to be presented at Versailles. They 
 afterwards dined at Monsieur de Montmorin’s, 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 and went in the evening to Madame de Polignac’s. 
 Mamma and I called upon Madame de Rothe, 
 Mrs. Sheldon, and the Derings, to take leave, 
 and took an airing on the Boulevards, where, 
 every fine evening, there is a general resort of 
 company. 
 
 Wednesday^ 16#/i—All our friends called, and 
 Madame de Rothe paid her last visit in the 
 evening. 
 
 Thursday^ lltli. — We left Paris about half¬ 
 past seven o’clock, and went through St. Denis, 
 where we re-visited that beautiful Gothic church, 
 which contains the bodies of all the kings of 
 France. From thence to Ecouen, Luzarches, 
 and Chantilly, where we dined and slept. We 
 passed the evening in seeing the magnificent 
 place belonging to the Prince de Cond4, which 
 is close to the village. The first striking object 
 is a large circular stone building, open at the 
 top, which is used as a riding-house ; and ad¬ 
 joining to it are the finest stables, it is supposed, 
 in Europe. The walls are of great thickness, 
 but the interior is very lofty and airy ; and in 
 the centre is a spacious round room, in which, 
 we were told, the Prince sometimes gives sup- 
 
197 
 
 pers. The front is extremely handsome, and 
 looks into a noble park, terminated by a thick 
 extensive wood. In going to the palace, we 
 stopped to feed some carp, which are there in 
 great numbers, and of great age and size; and 
 are always waiting on the top of the water to 
 receive any food the visitors will bestow upon 
 them. It is quite a curious sight. The palace 
 is surrounded with water and fountains, and is 
 very grand and princely. All the state apart¬ 
 ments are fitted up with rich ancient furniture ; 
 but the dining-room is modern and very elegant, 
 which was the only one we could see, the Prince 
 being at home. There is a very fine and rare 
 collection of natural history, which is beautifully 
 arranged; and in many of the rooms are busts of 
 the Grand Conde. One long gallery is painted 
 entirely with his conquests and triumphs. The 
 pleasure grounds and gardens are very extensive, 
 and laid out with superior taste; part in the 
 English style, and part in the French. There 
 are a number of jets d’eaux and cascades, and 
 other objects of interest; and in one quarter 
 there is every kind of rural amusement that can 
 be imagined, and separated by treUis-work en- 
 
 o 8 
 
198 
 
 twined with vine, woodbine, and other sweet- 
 smelling shrubs. There is a ball-room and 
 card-room, and others for different games; and 
 when the Prince gives entertainments here, it is 
 all brilliantly illuminated, and must produce a 
 beautiful effect; it is aU in the open air. No¬ 
 thing can be more princely or magnificent than 
 the whole place. 
 
 Friday^ 18^A. —We set out between five and 
 six o’clock, and went through Loigneville, Cler¬ 
 mont in Beauvoisis, St. Just, Wavignics, Bre- 
 teuil, Flers, and Heubicourt, to Amiens, where 
 we dined, and went to see the fine cathedral, 
 which is a noble Gothic structure, of great size 
 and exquisite proportion, and is reckoned one * 
 of the most beautiful in Europe. The town is 
 large and handsome. In the evening we went 
 through Picquigny, Flexicourt, Ailly-le-haut- 
 clocher, to Abbeville, where we slept. The situ¬ 
 ation of Clermont, where we breakfasted, is 
 extremely pretty, standing upon the declivity of 
 a hiU, and the whole country is WeU cultivated, 
 and varied with pleasing views. We remarked 
 in some parts the devastation that had been 
 made by the hail, which fell very partially. 
 
199 
 
 The heads of the com were cut off as with 
 scissors, and every produce of the ground in like 
 manner destroyed. Quantities of fruit were 
 lying under the trees. 
 
 Saturday^ —We went through Nouvion, 
 Berney, Namport, and Montreuil, where we 
 dined, and then to Cormont, Samers, and Bou¬ 
 logne, where we slept. Colonel Townley supped 
 with us, and accompanied me in a walk about 
 the town and ramparts, which command a fine 
 view of the town and adjacent country, and the 
 sea. The land view is agreeably varied with 
 wood and country seats. The three Miss 
 Waltons visited us. They were en pension at 
 the convent of the Dames Annonciades. 
 
 Sunday^ '20th. — We left Boulogne before five 
 o’clock, and went through Marquise Hautbuisson 
 to Calais, where we breakfasted ; but were in¬ 
 formed by Captain Baxter, with whom we were 
 to cross the water, that the wind would prevent 
 our sailing till ten o’clock, at which time we 
 embarked with two other vessels in company, 
 one of them conveying Messrs. Cholmondeley 
 and Leicester. We were tossed about for some 
 hours without making any progress, both wind 
 
 <) 4 
 
200 
 
 and tide being against us ; and the former at 
 length subsiding entirely, rendered our passage 
 still more tedious. We were long in view of the 
 castle and clbffs of Dover, but did not reach 
 them till after midnight, and landed about one 
 o’clock. It is not to be described how greatly 
 we enjoyed the comfort, cleanliness, and neatness 
 of an English inn (the “ Ship”). 
 
 Monday^ 21st. — About noon we proceeded to 
 Canterbury, where we dined, and were very 
 much struck with the contrast that appeared 
 between our own country and those we had left. 
 The manners and appearance of the people, the 
 cultivation and whole face of the country, the 
 inns, the way of posting, and everything that we 
 met with were so totally different, and bore so 
 pleasing an aspect, that it made a very favour¬ 
 able impression, which can hardly be imagined 
 by those who have never experienced the change. 
 We passed Sir Horace Mann’s place to the left; 
 and as soon as we had dined we went to the ca¬ 
 thedral, where, unfortunately, the evening service 
 was nearly concluded ; but we availed ourselves 
 with great joy of the part that remained in 
 returning thanks to Almighty God for our pre- 
 
201 
 
 servation during our travels by sea and land, 
 and for the great pleasure we had experienced 
 during the course of them. The cathedral is a 
 handsome Gothic building, containing several 
 memorable interments. Thomas a Becket is 
 there, but without a monument; and Henry IV. 
 and his queen lie under an ancient tomb, upon 
 which are the figures of both. Near the church 
 are the ruins of a beautiful gateway and monas¬ 
 tery. We slept at Sittingbourne, and had passed 
 through a very rich and fertile country from 
 Dover. 
 
 Tuesday^ — We changed horses at Ro¬ 
 
 chester and Dartford. Near to the former town 
 is Chatham, upon the river Medway, on which 
 are most of our largest ships of war. From 
 Dartford we went over Shooter’s Hill, Black- 
 heath, and by the park at Greenwich to London. 
 We greatly admired our own capital on our 
 return to it, and thought the river Thames and 
 the view from Westminster Bridge surpassed 
 anything we had seen abroad. We were also 
 charmed with our whole days’ journey, with the 
 affluence, richness, and high cultivation of the 
 country, which was diversified with wood, water. 
 
202 
 
 lawn, hop-grounds, corn-fields, and magnificent 
 country seats, and were much gratified by the 
 comparison we made between our own country 
 and those we had been travelling through. We 
 engaged for a short time a small quiet house in 
 Cork Street, but afterwards removed to one 
 belonging to Lord Le Despenser, in Hanover 
 Square. 
 
203 
 
 DISTANCES IN MILES. 
 
 1787. 
 August 17. 
 
 From Heaton to Congleton 
 
 
 Miles 
 
 28 
 
 >y 
 
 18. 
 
 To Hagley 
 
 - 
 
 - 36 
 
 yy 
 
 19. 
 
 To Meriden 
 
 - 
 
 - 29 
 
 yy 
 
 20. 
 
 To Stony Stratford 
 
 - 
 
 - 44 
 
 yy 
 
 21. 
 
 To London 
 
 - 
 
 - 52 
 
 yy 
 
 25. 
 
 To Penn Church and back to London 
 
 - 54 
 
 yy 
 
 30. 
 
 From London to Reigate 
 
 - 
 
 - 21 
 
 yy 
 
 31. 
 
 To Brighton 
 
 - 
 
 - 33 
 
 Sept. 
 
 1 & 2. 
 
 In a packet to Dieppe 
 
 - 
 
 - 75 
 
 yy 
 
 3. 
 
 To Rouen—Vatel 
 
 - 
 
 - 36 
 
 yy 
 
 6. 
 
 To Lisieux—La Poste - 
 
 - 
 
 - 55 
 
 yy 
 
 7. 
 
 To Caen—La Poste 
 
 - 
 
 - 30 
 
 yy 
 
 10. 
 
 To Vire — St. Pierre 
 
 - 
 
 - 34 
 
 yy 
 
 11. 
 
 To Fougeres — St. Jacques 
 
 - 
 
 - 44 
 
 yy 
 
 12. 
 
 To Rennes—Grande Maison 
 
 - 
 
 - 26 
 
 yy 
 
 13. 
 
 To Nantes — Cheval Blanc 
 
 - 
 
 - 66 
 
 yy 
 
 18. 
 
 To Angers—Boule d’Or - 
 
 - 
 
 - 56 
 
 yy 
 
 19. 
 
 To Saumur — Dauphin - 
 
 - 
 
 • 34 
 
 yy 
 
 20. 
 
 To Tours—Faisan 
 
 - 
 
 - 53 
 
 yj 
 
 25. 
 
 To Blois by Chanteloup - 
 
 - 
 
 - 41 
 
 847 
 
204 
 
 Miles 
 
 1787. Brought forward 847 
 
 Sept. 
 
 26. 
 
 To Orleans — Trois Empereurs 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 36 
 
 
 27. 
 
 To Estampes — Trois Rbis 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 39 
 
 
 28. 
 
 To Paris 
 
 
 - 
 
 30 
 
 Nov, 
 
 28. 
 
 To Fontainebleau—Le Cerf 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 37 
 
 
 29. 
 
 To Briare—Grand Monarque 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 61 
 
 55 
 
 30. 
 
 To Nevers — Grand Monarque 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 57 
 
 Dec. 
 
 1. 
 
 To La Palisse — La Poste 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 64 
 
 55 
 
 2. 
 
 To Roanne—La Poste - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 29i 
 
 • 5 
 
 3. 
 
 To Tarare—La Poste 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 24|- 
 
 55 
 
 4. 
 
 To Lyons — Hotel d’Artois 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 24 
 
 
 20, 21, 22, Down the Rhone from Lyons 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 
 Avignon 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 152 
 
 55 
 
 26. 
 
 To Vaucluse and back to Avignon 
 
 - 
 
 38 
 
 55 
 
 29. 
 
 To Nismes—Petit Lonore 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 30 
 
 55 
 
 30. 
 
 To Montpellier - 
 
 - 
 
 
 30 
 
 1788. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. 
 
 26. 
 
 From Montpellier to Nismes 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 30 
 
 55 
 
 29. 
 
 To Pont Royal - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 48 
 
 55 
 
 30. 
 
 To Aix - - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 23 
 
 55 
 
 31. 
 
 To Marseilles 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 20 
 
 Feb. 
 
 11. 
 
 Returned to Aix 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
 12. 
 
 To Brignolle 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 35 
 
 55 
 
 13. 
 
 To Frejus 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 40 
 
 55 
 
 14. 
 
 To Nice ... - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 51 
 
 April 
 
 3. 
 
 By water, in a felucca, to Noli 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 75 
 
 55 
 
 5. 
 
 To Savona 
 
 - 
 
 
 10 
 
 55 
 
 7. 
 
 To Genoa 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1881 
 
205 
 
 Miles 
 
 1788. Brought forward 1881 
 
 April 15. 
 
 To Vogherra 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 56 
 
 
 16. 
 
 To Milan 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 35 
 
 
 19. 
 
 To Sesto 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 32 
 
 
 20. 
 
 Upon the Lago Maggiore 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 33 
 
 5 ) 
 
 21. 
 
 Returned to Milan 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 32 
 
 35 
 
 23. 
 
 To Brescia 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 60 
 
 55 
 
 24. 
 
 To Verona 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 39 
 
 55 
 
 25. 
 
 To Padua 
 
 - 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 52 
 
 55 
 
 26. 
 
 By water to Venice 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 25 
 
 May 10. 
 
 From Venice to Padua 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 25 
 
 55 
 
 12. 
 
 To Ferrara 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 47 
 
 55 
 
 13. 
 
 To Bologna 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 36 
 
 55 
 
 18. 
 
 To Modena 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 24 
 
 55 
 
 19. 
 
 To Reggio 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 17 
 
 55 
 
 20. 
 
 To Parma 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 17 
 
 55 
 
 23. 
 
 To Broni 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 61 
 
 55 
 
 26. 
 
 To Alexandria - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 39 
 
 55 
 
 27. 
 
 To Turin 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 55 
 
 June 
 
 2. 
 
 To Suza - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 25 
 
 55 
 
 3. 
 
 To Lannebourg - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
 4. 
 
 To St. Jean de Maurienne 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 34 
 
 55 
 
 5. 
 
 To Chamberry - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 45 
 
 55 
 
 6 . 
 
 From Chamberry to Frangy 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 32 
 
 55 
 
 7. 
 
 To Geneva 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 15 
 
 55 
 
 17. 
 
 To Lausanne 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 38 
 
 55 
 
 19. 
 
 To Vevay 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 12 
 
 2787 
 
206 
 
 Miles 
 
 1788. Brought forward 2787 
 
 June 20. 
 
 To Bex - - . 
 
 . 
 
 . 
 
 21 
 
 JJ 
 
 21. 
 
 To Vevay, with excursions 
 
 - 
 
 . 
 
 38 
 
 5? 
 
 22. 
 
 To Payern 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 42 
 
 9) 
 
 23. 
 
 To Berne 
 
 - 
 
 
 28 
 
 99 
 
 25. 
 
 To Neuchatel 
 
 - 
 
 
 28 
 
 99 
 
 26. 
 
 To Pontarlier 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 34 
 
 99 
 
 27. 
 
 To Besan^on 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 45 
 
 99 
 
 28. 
 
 To Dijon 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 65 
 
 99 
 
 29. 
 
 To Viteaux 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 31 
 
 99 
 
 30. 
 
 To Auxerre 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 67 
 
 July 
 
 1. 
 
 To Fontainebleau 
 
 . 
 
 - 
 
 70 
 
 99 
 
 2. 
 
 To Paris 
 
 - 
 
 
 37 
 
 99 
 
 17. 
 
 From Paris to Chantilly 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 24 
 
 99 
 
 18. 
 
 To Abbeville 
 
 - 
 
 . 
 
 80 
 
 99 
 
 19. 
 
 To Boulogne 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 47 
 
 99 
 
 20. 
 
 To Calais 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 22 
 
 99 
 
 99 
 
 Across the Straits of Dover 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 21 
 
 99 
 
 21. 
 
 To Sittingbourne 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 31 
 
 99 
 
 22. 
 
 To London 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 40 
 
 Total - 3558 
 
 Henry Massey, Printer, 103. Park Street, Grosvenor Square, London.