mimi DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 4j;a ■[ m&m mWmm Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/guidebooktosanfr01hitt BANCROFT’S MAP OF THE DENSELY SETTLED PORTION OF SAN FRANCISCO WITH STREET RAILROADS Scale an inch and a quarter to a mile California references: 1 Palace Hotel 2 Baldwin Hotel 3 Occidental Hotel 4 Lick House 5 Grand Hotel 6 Ferry Lauding 7 City Hall 8 Old City Hall 9 Main Post Office 10 Mint 11 Telegraph Hill 12 Nob Hill 13 S. P. R. R. Station 14 History Building A Guide Book to San Francisco BY JOHN S. HITTELL SAN FRANCISCO THE BANCROFT COMPANY History Building , 72/ Market St. iSSS Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1888 By THE BANCROFT COMPANY In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington C U7. RkH tt£7£Q. PREFACE San Francisco has so many interesting and peculiar features in her population, in her manufactures, in her commerce, in her architecture, great accumulation of wealth and development of luxury, in her site and surroundings, and in her history, that the stranger here needs a guide book to assist him in finding and understanding them. To supply that want, this work is prepared. The newcomer should look through it as a preparation for his walks and drives, so that he may know where to look for information when he has occasion for special inquiry. The small map opposite the title page, engraved specially for this guide, is the best one ever published for the general use of tourists and strangers. Though large enough to show nearly all the notable points in the city, all the business streets, and the most populous residence districts, it is so small that it occupies only a single page. At the back of the book will be found a map of Chinatown, a folding map of the city, and also maps of the country districts north and south of San Francisco. Those who wish for a map show- ing the whole area of the city should inquire for Bancroft’s Pocket Map, which upon unfolding measures 24 x 30 inches. CONTENTS PAGE City Sights 5 Suburban Sights 7 Finding your Way 8 Ferries and Trains 9 Street-car Lines 1C The City. . 13 The City’s Origin 13 Local History 14 Site 16 Telegraph Hill 17 San Francisco by Night, 18 Surrounding Scenery 19 Trees and Shrubbery 21 A Great Seaport 23 A Pleasure Resort 24 The Streets ..24 Architecture ......25 Notable Buildings 26 Hotels and Boarding-houses 27 Theatres and Libraries 27 Churches, Residences, etc 28 Mint 28 New City Hall .....28 Hotels .*.....29 Safe Deposit 29 Stock Exchange 29 PAGE Nob Hill 30 Business Houses 31 Works of Art ...34 Churches 36 Clubs and Libraries 37 Drives 37 Picnic Grounds 39 Golden Gate Park 39 Presidio Reservation 4o Point San Josd 41 Cliff House 41 Woodward’s Garden.. 42 Cemeteries 42 Chinatown 44 Joss Houses 44 Sunday in Chinatown 46 Chinese Holidays 47 Funerals 48 Chinese Theatres 48 Merchants 49 Restaurants..... 50 Chinese Missions 50 Guides and Shops 50 The Weather 51 Cabs 52 Distances and Fares 52 SAX FPiAXCISCO. City Sights. — When an intelligent traveler arrives in a strange place, especially one so noted for numerous •wonders as is San Francisco, he wants to know what things in it are most worthy of his attention. To supply that want for our city, a brief list is here submitted. Many of these sights are mentioned again or described more fully in other sections, to which the reader should refer. In speaking of the time required to walk, 20 minutes is allowed for a mile on level ground. The name of Chinatown is given to the district occupied al- most exclusively by the Chinamen. The most interesting things to be seen there are their men, women, and children, their shops, joss-houses, and theaters. In the provision shops may be seen ducks split open and boiled in oil, chickens boiled in oil, strange imported vegetables, including Hawaiian taro and Chinese yams, etc. Ladies unaccompanied by gentlemen can venture into China- town in the daytime with entire safety, and in the evening are in as little danger of insult as in some streets of the city occupied exclusively by white inhabitants. The joss-houses are all up- stairs, and ladies visiting them should have gentlemen escorts. The Cliff House, reached by the Haight Street cars or by the cars of the California Street and Cliff line. The view of the Cliff House includes that of the beach, with its surf and the Seal Hocks covered with sea-lions. The Cliff road gives most roman- tic views of the Golden Gate. Sutro Heights, an ornamental garden (area, 14 acres) with beautiful walks, shrubbery, casts of noted pieces of statuary, and a green-house, on the hill 100 yards east of the Cliff House. The highest point is 190 feet above the sea, and commands ex- tensive views of the ocean and Golden Gate. This park is thrown open to the public by its proprietor, Adolph Sutro, who has expressed his intention to give it to the city. Admission is by gratuitous cards obtainable at the Cliff House and at the prin- cipal hotels (each supplying its guests), except on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons from 2 to 4 o’clock, when people on horseback and in carriages are admitted without cards. Sutro Heights are the only private grounds in the city thrown open gratuitously to the public. Strangers are not admitted for the 6 SAN FRANCISCO. purpose of sight-seeing into any of the palatial residences. The walk to Sutro Heights requires about 10 minutes from the car lines terminating at or near the Cliff House. Hob Hill, — that is, California Street from Powell to Leaven- worth, — with the palatial residences of Stanford, Crocker, Hop- kins, and Colton. The dwellings of Lloyd Tevis and J. B. Haggin, other millionaires, are on Taylor Street near W ashington. The ride over the California Street cable line, to a person who has never gone over steep hills in a street-car, is a sensation. The views by day and night in a clear atmosphere are grand. Y ery beautiful views can also be obtained on the lines of the Union Street and Jackson Street cars, and indeed on many of the other car lines in tire city. The Golden Gate Park, with its walks, drives, conservatory, and Saturday -afternoon concert. Walk to conservatory 5 or 10 minutes from Park stations of the Geary, Hayes, McAllister, Haight, and Jackson Street car lines. The Buena Vista or Hill Park, reached by a winding road be- ginning at the corner of Baker and McAllister Streets, by walk or drive requires 10 minutes. The summit, 570 feet high, com- mands extensive and beautiful views. The Presidio, a military reservation, with a garrison, officers’ quarters, fort commanding the narrowest point of the Golden Gate, and extensive grounds laid out with walks, drives, and ornamental shrubbery. Access by the Union Street, Jackson Street, or California Street cars, the U nion Street line having the least walking. Walk from terminus of Union Street line, 5 minutes; from Central Avenue and California or Jackson Street, about 15 minutes. Black Point, or Point San Jos6, a military reservation, reached by Union Street cars. Walk from Union and Laguna Streets, 10 minutes. The Laurel Hill (frequently called Lone Mountain) Cemetery, access by Geary, Sutter, California, or Jackson Street cars. Walk from Central Avenue and California, Sutter, or Geary Street, 3 minutes. The Calvary and Odd Fellows’ Cemeteries, access by Geary Street cars. The Masonic Cemetery, access by McAllister Street cars. The Calvary (Catholic) Cemetery, 5 minutes from Geary and Alemany Avenue. The Odd Fellows’ Cemetery, 2 minutes from cars on Point Lobos Avenue. The Masonic Ceme- tery, 3 minutes from the McAllister Street car line, near the car- house. The old adobe church of the Mission of San Francisco and its cemetery, and the adobe buildings in the vicinity. Walk from Valencia and Sixteenth Streets, 10 minutes. The Stock Exchange, on Pine Street below Montgomery. The Laguna Honda Reservoir, 20 minutes walk from the Park and Ocean railroad at Third Avenue. Twenty minutes more takes you to the summit of the Mission Peak road, 600 feet high, overlooking the city and bay. About 20 minutes SAN FRANCISCO. more to tlie summit of the Mission Peaks, 925 feet high, with extensive view of ocean, bay, and city. The Mission Peaks can be reached in about 30 minutes from the highest point on the Castro Street car line. Telegraph Hill, overlooking the bay, 15 minutes from the car at Stockton and Green. The water-front, from Powell to Third Street, with its wharves for discharging grain, lumber, coal, hay, brick, fire-wood, vege- tables, an hour and a quarter. Persons passing the office of the Selby Smelting and Lead Company, at 416 Montgomery Street, can look in through the glass doors and see piles of silver bars or bricks, each about 15 inches long and 6 inches square, weighing 80 or 100 pounds, and worth $750 or $800. They are nearly pure silver, and every bar is marked with its weight and fineness, that is, percentage of pure silver. Most of this metal is shipped to China or India, and some of it is used by the silversmiths of California. The refinery of the company is at Port Vallejo. The machinery of a cable road, most conveniently seen at the corner of Mason and Washington, where visitors are welcome in the machine-house of the Jackson, Washington, and Powell Street cable roads. Various drives, mentioned elsewhere. The wharf of the Italian fishermen at the foot of Union Street. Most interesting on Sunday afternoon when most of the boats are in the dock and the fishermen are preparing to go out. The markets, with their display of fruit and vegetables, on California Street below Kearny, and Sutter, corner of Grant Avenue. The Mint, with the process of refining and coinage, on the corner of Fifth and Mission Streets. The Stone Dry Dock, 450 feet long and 31 feet deep at Hunter’s Point, access by Fourth omnibuses from the corner of Fourth and Townsend Streets to Railroad Avenue in South San Fran- cisco, whence there is a walk of 20 minutes. The Rolling Mill at Potrero Point, foot of Shasta Street, with walk of 10 minutes from cars on Kentucky Street. The Mineralogical Museum of the State Mining Bureau at 24 Fourth Street. Woodward’s Gardens, especially its aquarium; the panoramas, and other works of art. Suburban Sights. — Among the suburban sights perhaps the first place belongs to Oakland, a city of 50,000 inhabitants, cov- ering a large area, with spacious and well-cultivated grounds about its handsome residences. It has many of the large and old evergreen oaks which formerly covered much of its area. Its relation to San Francisco is like that of Brooklyn to New York. Some of the most luxurious homes in Oakland are near the western shore of Lake Merritt. The extensive grounds of the State University at Berkeley 8 SAN FRANCISCO. have handsome lawns, trees, and buildings, besides commanding, from their elevation of 300 feet above the sea and their position opposite the Golden Gate, a magnificent view over the bay. The agricultural department of the University cultivates, for gratu- itous distribution, a great number of useful plants, and has fine specimens of the camphor tree and of various bamboos. The University grounds can be reached from the station of the steam train in a walk of 15 minutes, or from the terminus of the Oak- land street-car line in 5 minutes. Just back of the University grounds at Berkeley is Strawberry Canyon, a romantic place for walks and picnics. Distant from the car stations about 20 minutes. At the head of the canyon and not two miles from the Berkeley station, is Grizzly Peak, 1,742 feet high, commanding an extensive view. Near Berkeley and south of it is the State Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, with large buildings and well-kept grounds. From Berkeley station a walk of 15 minutes. The Oakland Cemetery, reached by street-car from Oakland, has interesting monuments, and pleasant walks and drives. A mile southeastward from the Oakland Cemetery, and ac- cessible by horse-cars, is Piedmont, which has beautiful scenery and interesting views of the bay. The Piedmont garden, to which a dime admission is charged, is a favorite place for picnics. East of Piedmont is Hayes Canyon, with a romantic road about five miles long winding round from the Oakland cemetery to East Oakland. From this road, branch roads lead up to Moraga Pass, 1,400 feet high, and three miles away; and to Redwood Peak, 1,639 feet high, and two mile3 distant. The hills east of Berkeley, Oakland, Piedmont, Fruitvale, and Mills Seminary abound with interesting walks and drives. Sausalito, on the northern side of the Golden Gate, and 40 min- utes from the city, has many handsome homes almost hidden among their trees and shrubbery, and interesting walks to Wild- wood Glen, one mile from the landing, and to Lime Point, two miles from the landing. Sausalito has the houses of the San Francisco Yacht clubs. The laurel trees at Sausalito and Berkeley deserve attention. Finding Your Way. — For the purpose of finding your way about the city, it is important to have a small map to which you can conveniently refer, and to get a good idea of the manner in which the numbers run in the streets. The streets ending in Market are numbered from that street, with the odd numbers on the left, and even on the right, each block beginning with an even 100. Thus number 600 Kearny Street, or 000 Geary Street, is six blocks from Market, on the right hand looking from Mar- ket. Streets running east and west, ending on the water-front, begin their numbering on the water-front. If your map does not show the street, or if the street is not marked on the map, look in the City Directory, to be found in all the hotels and prominent business houses, and there you will find a chapter called the SAN FRANCISCO. 9 “Street Guide,” with directions to find every street, and a table showing what numbers each street has on every block. The street-cars furnish convenient access to nearly every place in the city. The streets running north and south, north of Market, begin- ning at the water-front and going westward in regular order, are East, Drumm, Davis, Front, Battery, Sansome, Montgomery, Kearny, Dupont, Stockton, Powell, Mason, Taylor, Jones, Leav- enworth, Hyde, Larkin, Polk, Van Hess, Franklin, Gough, Oc- tavia, Laguna, Buchanan, Webster, Fillmore, Steiner, Pierce, Scott, Devisadero, Broderick, Baker, Lyon, Cemetery (called also Central Avenue), Walnut, Laurel, Locust, Spruce, and Cherry streets; and then the avenues, — First, Second, Third, and so on, to Forty-ninth, which last is at the beach near the Cliff House. The streets running east and west, north of Market Street, commencing at Ridley and going north, are Kate, Waller, Haight, Page, Oak, Fell, Hayes, Grove, Fulton, McAllister, Tyler, Turk, Eddy, Ellis, O’Farrell, Geary, Post, Sutter, Bush, Pine, Califor- nia, Sacramento, Clay, Washington, Jackson, Pacific, Broadway, Vallejo, Green, Union, Filbert, Greenwich, Lombard, Chestnut, Francisco, Bay, North Point, Beach, Jefferson, Tonquin, and Lewis. Tyler is officially Golden Gate Avenue. The wide streets south of and parallel with Market, as we go from Market, are Mission, Howard, Folsom, Harrison, Bryant, Brannan, and Townsend. Among the narrow streets parallel with these are Stevenson and Jessie between Market and Mis- sion; Minna and Natoma between Mission and Howard; and Te- hama and Clementina between Howard and Folsom. The streets at right angles to Market, beginning at the water- front, are East, Steuart, Spear, Main, Beale, Fremont, First, Sec- ond, Third, Fourth, and so on, out to Eleventh. The numbers continue on to Thirtieth Street, but south of Eleventh the streets are no longer at right angles to the line of Market. Ferries and Trains. — On account of the frequent changes in schedules of railroads and ferry-boats, time-tables given in a work like this might soon mislead readers. Nevertheless some general information about ferries and trains may be of service. Five lines of ferry-boats have slips near the foot of Market Street. Farthest north is that of the Sausalito or North Pacific Coast line, connecting with the narrow-gauge road to San Rafael, and through the redwoods, along the eastern shore of Tomales Bay, and across Russian River to Duncan’s Mill and Cazadero. Next to that is the slip of the Tiburon, or San Francisco and North Pacific line, connecting at Tiburon with the broad-gauge road to San Rafael, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, and Clo- verdale, soon to be completed to Ukiah, with branches to Sonoma and to Guerneville, at which latter place it enters a redwood district of the Southern Pacific. The third ferry line is that (broad-gauge) to the Oakland Mole, 10 SAN FRANCISCO. where it connects with the broad-gauge roads to Oakland, Ala- meda, Berkeley, Port Costa, there with the roads to Oregon, Og- den, Yosemite, and Los Angeles, and to Niles, with branches to San Jose and Stockton. The fourth line is that of the South Pacific to the Alameda wharf, there connecting with narrow-gauge cars to Alameda, Oakland, San Jose, the Santa Cruz redwoods, the Santa Cruz Big Tree Grove- and the town of Santa Cruz, to which it is the shortest and most interesting road. The boats of the fifth line run on the creek route, and entering the Oakland harbor, land at the foot of Broadway in that city. On the peninsula of San Francisco there is only one railway, the Southern Pacific, and it has two stations in the city; the main station at Fourth and Townsend, and another at Twenty- Sixth and Valencia. From these stations cars run to San Mateo, Redwood, Menlo Park, Santa Clara, San Jos6, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and Templeton. The time-tables of all these lines, published every day in the newspapers of the city, are full for the routes to Berkeley, Ala- meda, Oakland, Sausalito, Tiburon, and San Rafael, but not full for other points. For full tiine-tables to remoter places, consult the latest Railroad Gazetteer, published monthly, and kept at the counter of all the hotels and railroad ticket-offices. On page 2 of the pamphlet you will find an index. The time-table to Los Angeles is given under the head of “Overland via El Paso”; that to Sacramento under “Overland via Ogden ”; and those to Peta- luma, Sausalito, and Santa Cruz under the names given above in the mention of the ferries. The Gazetteer contains a list of the stage routes of California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Nevada, Arizona, and Montana, with distances, time-tables, and fares; an alphabetical list of the towns in each of those states and territories, with the mode or modes of conveyance to it, the distance on each kind of conveyance, and the fare from San Francisco, and lists of the steamer lines on the inland waters and coast of California. This Railroad Gazetteer, being the best authority in California time-tables, and being kept at every railway station and promi- nent hotel in the country, should be consulted by tourists when- ever they intend to travel, and have doubts about trains or boats. Time-tables have some features not easily understood, es- pecially when information is wanted about connecting trains; and under many circumstances, it may be well to ask the advice of experienced persons. Street-car Lines. — The street-car lines of San Francisco are so numerous that few persons can remember all their routes, and many old residents have yet to ride over some portions of these roads. Generally the cars run on them from 6 A. m. till Up. m. ; but they do not start at the same time from the dif- ferent ends. To give all the particulars of the times when they start from each end, and the intervals between the cars at SAX FRANCISCO. 11 different times of the day and week, would require much space, and would bother the average reader by hiding the information which he wants amidst a mass of other stuff of no interest to him. Such knowledge as is not given here can readily be obtained by inquiry of conductors. The McAllister Street cable-cars run from the water-front, on Market and McAllister Streets, to G-olden Gate Park, from 5:30 a. m. till 12 p. M. The Hayes Street cable-cars run from the water-front, on Mar- ket and Hayes, to the Golden Gate Park, from 5:20 A. M. to 11: 10 P. M. The Haight Street cable-cars run from the water-front, on Market and. Haight, to the Golden Gate Park, from 5:50 A. M. till 11:30 P. M. The Park and Ocean steam railroad runs from the corner of Stanyan and Haight Streets, where it connects with the Haight Street cable-cars to the ocean beach, near the Cliff House, from 8 A. m. to 6 p. M. The Valencia, McAllister, Hayes, and Haight Street cars all run over the same tracks on Market Street, and are under the control of the same stockholders, organized in different compa- nies. Cable lines under the same management are soon to run on Market Street, west of Valencia, and on Castro Street. Fifth Street cars, from Market through Fifth, and Bluxome to Fourth, transfer at Fifth and Market with all the Market Street cable-cars. Tbe Geary Street cable-cars run from Kearny, through Geary, to Central Avenue, from 6:21 A. M. to 11: 35 p. m. The Geary Street steam-cars run from Central Avenue, through Point Lobos Avenue (an extension of Geary Street), First Avenue, and Fulton Street, to an entrance of the Golden Gate Park, and there con- nect by transfer tickets with the Geary Street cable-cars. The California Street cable-cars run from Kearny, on Cali- fornia, to Central Avenue, from 6: 20 A. m. till 12 p. m. The Clay Street cable-cars run over the first road of this kind ever built, from Kearny, on Clay, to Van Ness Avenue, from 6:45 a. m. to 11 p. m. Transfer tickets given to Powell Street line. The Jackson and Washington cable-cars run, going west, from East Street, water-front, through Clay, Stockton, Jackson, Steiner, Jackson, and Central Avenue to California; and return the same way, save that from Steiner to Stockton it runs on Washington Street. Transfer with the Powell Street cars. The Powell Street cable-cars run from Market, through Powell, Jackson, Mason, Montgomery Avenue, and Taylor Street, to the bay. Transfers with the Jackson, Washington, and Clay Street cars. The Golden Gate Park line, from Central Avenue, through California and Seventh Avenue, to the Golden Gate Park. Transfers with the Jackson and Washington cable-cars. 12 SAN FRANCISCO. The Cliff House steam-cars run on California Street, on Central Avenue, and along the bluffs of the Golden Gate to the Cliff House. The North Beach and Mission (called also the Kearny Street) (yellow) cars run from Fourth Street, through Townsend, Fourth, Stockton, Geary, Kearny, Pacific, Dupont, Broadway, Powell, Montgomery Avenue, Mason, and Francisco, to North Beach. The North Beach and Mission (blue) cars run from the water- front, through Market, California, Kearny, Market, Eighth, and Folsom to Twenty-sixth Street. Transfer with other N. B. & M. car lines. The North Beach and Mission (one horse) cars run from Mont- gomery, through California, Battery, First, and Folsom, tc Eighth Street. Transfers with other N. B. & M. car lines. The Montgomery Street or omnibus cars run from Fourth Street, through Townsend, Third, Market, Montgomery Avenue, Pacific, Stockton, and Powell, to North Beach. The Howard Street omnibus cars run from water-front through Market, Spear, and Howard, to Twenty-sixth Street. Transfer with the Montgomery Street line. The Brannan Street omnibus cars run from Third, through Brannan, to Pacific Mail Dock. Transfer with the Montgomery Street line. The Spear Street omnibus cars run from the water-front, through Market and Spear Streets, to the dock of the Oregon steamers. Transfer with the Montgomery Street line. The Sutter Street cable-cars run from the water-front through Market and Sutter streets to Central Avenue, from 6 a. m. to 12 p. M. The Polk and Larkin Street cable-cars run from Brannan through Ninth, Larkin, Post, Polk, and Pacific to Fillmore, with a horse-car branch on Polk from Pacific to Union; transfers given at Sutter for Sutter Street cars, and Ninth for Mission Street cars going towards Mission. The Union Street cable-cars run from Montgomery Street through Montgomery Avenue and Union to Steiner, with trans- fer to horse-car branch from Montgomery Street through Wash- ington Street to water-front. The Presidio steam-cars connect at Steiner and Union streets with the Union Street cars from 7 A. m. till 10:20 p. m. The Mission Street cars run from the foot of Market Street through East and Mission to Thirty-first Street. Give transfers at Ninth for Larkin and Polk cars. The Grant Avenue cars of the Mission Street line run from Twentieth Street through Mission, Fifth, Market, Grant Avenue, and Sutter to Market; at end of Sutter Street give transfers to Sutter Street cars for foot of Market Street. The Turk Street cars of the Central line run from the water- front through Market, Bush, Kearny, Post, Grant Avenue, Mar- ket, Turk, and Fillmore to Post. SAN FRANCISCO. 13 The Sixth Street cars of the Central line run from foot of Mar- ket Street through East, Jackson, Sansome, Bush, Kearny, Post, Stockton, Geary, Taylor, and Sixth to Brannan; transfer at Tay- lor and Turk with other Central line. In Oakland there are street-car lines from the center of the city, Broadway or Washington and Seventh, to Alameda, to Berkeley, to the Oakland Cemetery, to Piedmont, to East Oak- land, and to the Sixteenth Street station; and from East Oakland there is a line to Fruitvale. The City. — The business portion of the city is situated on the northeastern corner of the peninsula of San Francisco. The latitude is three degrees south of that of Naples. The City Hall is in 37° 47'. The legal title of the municipal corporation is “The City and County of San Francisco.” Her area is about six miles square, her southern boundary running east and west across the peninsula, six miles south of the Golden Gate. This area includes some sand-dune, much high, steep hill, much land occupied only for pasture, four lakes (one now converted into reservoir, with a bottom and sides of cement), and several na- tional military reservations. Though she had only 233,000 inhabitants in 1880, and there- fore must be classed as to size with cities of the third or fourth grade, San Francisco may fairly claim a place in the first rank in point of interest to the traveler and student. She possesses a happy combination of advantages in her situation, the agreeable nature of her climate, the activity of her business, the rapidity of her growth, the cosmopolitan character of her population, and the abundance and variety of her public amusements. Nature and art have united their powers to make her the metropolis of this side of our continent. Her position is midway on the west- ern coast, and topographical, industrial, and climatic influences unite, with established routes of travel and financial and social considerations, to make her the converging point of the entire slope. Her chief business district is 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean, on the eastern side of the head of a peninsula 30 miles long, that separates the southern arm of San Francisco Bay from the sea. This bay, covering with its branches more than 600 square miles, has been aptly described as “a miniature Mediterranean,” and in beauty and convenience for commerce is not unworthy of its magnificent entrance, the Golden Gate. The City’s Origin. — The city is the successor and heir of two villages, those of San Francisco and Yerba Buena. The former occupied about 150 acres near the Mission church, on the corner of Dolores and Sixteenth Streets, the Mission having been founded by Franciscan Friars, October 8, 1776. For 59 years the authority of the Mission was dominant, at least nominally, but it was overthrown in 1835 by the decree of secularization, and then the village of San Francisco succeeded. In that same year W. A. Richardson, an Englishman, who had been residing for 13 years at Sausalito, erected a tent at 811 Dupont Street, 14 SAN FRANCISCO. as the place is now designated, to trade in hides and tallow. This was the beginning of the village of Yerba Buena, which in 1845 occupied about 40 acres of land on the shores of Yerba Buena Cove. The two villages were separated by 3 miles of sand hills, covered with dense chaparral, and the only communication was by a horse trail. San Francisco was Mexican, and lived by the sale of hides and tallow; Yerba Buena was American and British, and lived by trading. A great change was made in July, 1846, when the American flag was hoisted, and San Fran- cisco Bay became the headquarters of the American navy on the Pacific. In January, 1847, the village of Yerba Buena assumed the name of San Francisco; and in July, 1S48, six months after the gold discovery, had about 500 residents, or perhaps one fifteenth so many people as the average annual in- crease of the population for the last 32 years. Every house now standing within 2 miles from the business center of the city has been built since 1846, and every house of the better class since 1852. The face of nature has been changed, so that those who saw the site in 1848 no longer recognize it. Then there was scarcely level space enough for 500 people; now there is room for 1,000,000 people. Hundreds of hills and ridges have been cut down; and large tracts of ravine, swamp, mud flat, and bay filled up. Local History. — Among the events in the history of San Francisco possessing a public and permanent interest, the follow- ing deserve mention here: — November 7, 1769. Discovery of the bay by Friar JuanCrespi and party. September 17, 1776. Establishment of the Presidio or Span- ish fort. October 8, 1776. Establishment of the Mission. 1813. Mission in its most prosperous condition, with 1,205 Indians. August 9, 1834. Governor Figueroa’s official announcement of overthrow of the mission system. 1835. First dwelling in future village of Yerba Buena, a tent set up by W. A. Richardson. July 4, 1836. First wooden house of Yerba Buena finished by Jacob P. Leese. 1839. Survey of the village of Yerba Buena by J. J. Vioget. Lots were marked off on eleven blocks, most of which fronted or cornered on Portsmouth Square. No names were given to the streets. January 1, 1846. Yerba Buena had 30 houses. July 8, 1846. Hoisting of the stars and stripes as a symbol that the dominion had that day changed from Mexico to the United States. January 30, 1847. Name of Yerba Buena changed to San Francisco by an alcalde’s decree. August 1, 1847. The first census of San Francisco showed SAN FRANCISCO. 15 the possession of 459 inhabitants and 157 houses, exclusive of the village at the Mission. January 9, 1848. Date of the first number of the California Star, the pioneer newspaper of San Francisco. March 15, 1848. First printed report of the discovery of gold at Coloma. May 20, 1S48. San Francisco deserted by nearly all its adult male inhabitants, — absent at mines. Feb. 28, 1849. Arrival of the first ocean steamer by the San Francisco and Panama route. April 15, 1850. City charter granted to San Francisco. April 25, 1850. County of San Francisco created, including what is now San Mateo County. June 1, 1850. United States census. Figures for San Fran- cisco lost. May 3, 1851. Great fire. Loss §7,000,000. June 1, 1852. State census. Population of county, 36,000. April 19, 1856. Consolidation act passed, creating the city and county of San Francisco with its present boundaries, and cutting off San Mrtco County. May 14, 1856. Murder of James King of William by James P. Casey. May 15, 1856. Vigilance Committee organized. May 26, 1856. Casey hanged by Vigilance Committee. August 18, 1856. After hanging four murderers, banishing about three dozen ballot-box stuffers and other evil-doers, hold- ing possession of the city for three months, and laying the foun- dation for important municipal reforms, the Vigilance Committee made a public parade (with 5,137 men in line, nearly all armed and drilled in military companies), and then disbanded. June 1, 1860. United States census. City population, 56,000. November 15, 1862. The cars began to run on the Omnibus route, — the first street railway. December 22, 1864. Ordinance adopted to widen Kearny Street from 45 feet 5 inches to 75 feet from Broadway to Market street. On account of litigation, the work of widening was not commenced until two years later. The expense of the widening was $600,000; the addition to the value of property within two years was $4,000,000. March 8, 1866. Congress confirmed the city’s title to the pub- lic land within the city limits for the benefit of the persons in possession. October 21, 1868. The severest earthquake since the American occupation. Five persons killed on the streets by bricks falling from housetops. June 1, 1870. United States census. Population 149,000. August 26, 1875. Failure of Bank of California, the capital of which was afterwards restored. Sudden death of W. C. Ralston, several hours after resigning his position as president of the hank. 16 SAN FRANCISCO. June 1, 1880. United States census. Population 233,000. Site. — The site of land upon which the city has been built consisted, in 1849, of steep ridges and deep ravines. The near- est level and dry land was at the Mission. The place, in its natural condition, was unfit for occupation by a dense popula- tion, and immense changes were made by cutting down hills, filling up hollows, and converting the mud flat and anchorage in front of the town, as it then was, into land. The city contains more than four hundred acres of “made ground,” and a large part of the business is done where the water stood in 1850. The bay shore then came up west of Sansome Street, from California to Jackson, and a large ship called the Niantic was drawn up and permanently fixed in 1849 on the northwestern corner of Sansome and Clay, a point about half a mile distant from the present water-front. The change in the level of the ground has amounted in many places to fifty feet or more, and railroads were built to carry the hills down to the bay. Happy Valley, Hayes Valley, Spring Valley, and St. Ann’s Valley were de- stroyed by transporting the hills that inclosed them, pr by raising the level of the low ground. Spring Valley was at the northeastern corner of Taylor and Clay Streets, and was at least 50 feet below the present level. A little spring there was claimed, with the idea that by digging, enough water could be obtained to supply the city, in the days when that fluid was brought from Sausalito in a water-boat, and peddled around at twenty-five cents a bucket from water-carts. Notwithstanding all that has been done to reduce the steep- ness of the natural grades of streets and lots, including the transfer of 20,000,000 cubic yards of earthy material, San Fran- cisco is still remarkably hilly, and may properly be termed “the Hundred-hilled City. ” The highest point, a mile and a quarter southeastward from the Mission Peaks, is 938 feet high. The Mission Peaks, twin hills of equal height, perhaps 200 yards apart, are 925 feet; Reservoir Hill, a mile northwest from the Mission Peaks, 920; Park Peak, 579; Bernal Hill, 480; Lone Mountain, 468; Strawberry Hill, in the Golden Gate Park, 426; Russian Hill, a mile long, and the most prominent hill in the densely settled part of the city, 400; Potrero Hill, 326; Tele- graph Hill, 294; South San Francisco Hill, 260; and Rincon Hill, 120. These are all within the city limits, and are but a few of many, the others being less notable because of remoteness from the settled districts or smaller elevation. Russian Hill, Tele- graph Hill, and Rincon Hill are covered with dwellings. Almost as numerous as the hills are the valleys, some of which are in the shape of amphitheaters, nearly surrounded by heights, from which the spectator looks down on a densely populated territory, interesting by day and brilliant at night; when numerous long rows of gas lights and lighted windows are spread out. reaching to the hilltops in the remote distance. Such amphitheaters are seen looking from Telegraph Hill to the southwestward, from SAX FEANCISCO. 17 Rincon Hill to the westward, from Mission Peaks to the north- eastward, from Russian Hill to the westward, and from its southern end to the southward, the last being the most attractive of these dews, and also the most conveniently accessible. The city, as seen from the approaching Oakland ferry-boat, makes an impressive appearance, especially at night, when ablaze with lines of light climbing its hills. A clergyman from Ohio, the Rev. G. W. Pepper, thus expressed himself: — “ Inconceivably beautiful is the first glimpse of San Francisco. This city is the grandest embodiment of the American mind! The most modern type of the ancient cities, which fancy dreams of in the past! American genius covered that sandy ground with a throng of business temples, sacred edifices, palatial resi- dences, — the comeliest assemblage of structures the sun has ever gilded. The public buildings — -the Mint, the California Bank, the Merchants’ Exchange, the hotels, Baldwin, Occidental, Lick House, and the Palace- — are marvels of architecture San Francisco has no rival in the United States. We may con- trast but not compare it with Eastern or even European cities. London is grand, but not beautiful. Paris is beautiful, but not grand. Constantinople is picturesque, but has no architectural splendor. But San Francisco has all these attributes. It has been compared to Cleveland, city of beautiful avenues. Cleve- land is charming; Ban Francisco is stupendous, romantic. Cleve- land is lovely; San Francisco is grand. Cleveland is American; San Francisco is cosmopolitan. Cleveland is a garden made by man; San Francisco looks as if it were built by the gods.” A. E. D. Rupert, who wrote a book about his travels in the United States, says: “San Francisco is the city of wondrous sights. It is the most picturesque town in America, - — not even excepting Quebec, — and also one of the most beautiful.” Telegraph. Hill. — In the northeastern corner of San Fran- cisco is Telegraph Hill, so called because in 1849, and for some years afterwards, it was occupied by a telegraph station, with arms attached to a pole, and when a vessel entered the harbor, these were moved to indicate the character of the new arrival. The signal for a side-wheel steamer, about the time when the New York mail, by way of Panama, was expected, attracted great attention. The hill is 296 feet high, and from its summit the best view of the water-front and business portion of the city can be obtained. All the wharves, from Rincon Point to North Point, are in sight; with the shipping at anchor, either in the stream or in the slips. The Golden Gate and the Pacific Ocean, nearly all of both arms of San Francisco Bay, part of San Pablo Bay, the Contra Costa Mountains for a distance of thirty miles, Monte Diablo, the Suscol Hills, the hills beyond Napa Valley, the range between Napa and Sonoma, the plains of Alameda and San Pablo, Oakland, Brooklyn, Alameda, San Leandro, San Lo- renzo, Haywards, and various other villages, are visible. It is important to select a very clear day. The view is so extensive 2 IS SAN FRANCISCO. that a slight haze, scarcely noticed when looking at objects within a mile or two, hides much of beauty in the distance. The wind on the lull is often cold and strong. The best time for going to the hill is about nine o’clock on a clear morning. The following are the directions and distances of various points from Davidson’s Count Pilot: — Distance. Directions. The Farallones 35 miles W. Pt. Bonita Light House “ Nearly W. Alcatraz . n “ N. N. W. Yerba Buena Island OX. “ E. Sausalito 5 “ N. W. Red Rock 9 “ N. Two Brothers .11 “ N. Two Sisters “ N. Fort Point. 3 h “ W. Oakland 7 “ E. Monte Diablo 29 “ N. N. E. Tamalpais 12 “ N. W. Monte Diablo and Tamalpais are the two most prominent peaks distinctly visible from the hill. Mr. Rupert says: “A good view of the city and its splendid surroundings can be had from several of the hills, especially from Telegraph Hill and California Street Hill. From these heights the traveler sees at a glance the whole city, — a forest of houses, with domes and steeples towering above them; the busy wharves, and the bay, the largest, the most commodious, and the safest harbor in America. Alcatraz and Goat islands are near by. The former is not a smiling island. On the contrary, it frowns, and at times its thunders awaken the echoes of the surrounding mountains, for it is fortified and garrisoned by United States troops The beautiful city of Oakland, the Brooklyn of San Francisco, the villages of Berkeley and Alameda, are there in full view, east, just across the bay, some 7 or 8 miles dis- tant, smiling under a blue and cloudless heaven, and almost under the shadows of a range of treeless mountains, green in win- ter and yellow in summer, that frame the panorama at whatever points of the compass the eyes may be directed.” San Francisco at Night.- — A consequence of the topo- graphical situation of San Francisco, on hills which inclose sev- eral amphitheaters, is, that the city, as seen from various points, presents a most brilliant appearance at night. The best view is found on the corner of California and Jones Streets, looking to the southward, eastward, and westward, looking over many square miles, intersected by lines of street lamps. The other portions of Russian Hill north of California Street and Tele- graph Hill, have similar views, but less extensive. As seen from the bay, when approached from Oakland at night, San Francisco presents a brilliant spectacle, of which Mr. Rupert says: “Your eyes seem riveted on something in the distance ahead. It is a SAX FRANCISCO. 19 strange, novel, weird, fascinating sight, that something. It is a mountain looming out of the water, some three miles in length, and all ablaze with lights running upwards in close parallel lines, and losing themselves in the cloudless horizon above among twinkling stars. Silvery stars above, and golden stars below, — splendid contrast! This miniature firmament, profusely decked with stars of gold, and seemingly floating over the waters of the bay, is San Francisco, sleeping.” Surrounding- Scenery. — San Francisco is remarkable in many respects, and perhaps in none more than in the beauty of the situation and of the surrounding scenery. To get a clear idea of the topography of her vicinity, it is important to know that in the latitude of the city there are three parallel moun- tain ridges of the Coast Range running nearly north and south, with intervals of about ten miles between their summits, and several miles of valley land or water between their bases. Nearest the ocean, and in many places making a high bluff shore, is the San Mateo ridge; eastward from it is the Contra Costa ridge; and the easternmost of the three is the Diablo ridge. Each of these ridges is, with some interruptions where it has been washed away by water, at least a hundred miles long, and somewhere in its length reaches an elevation of 4,000 feet or more. The waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers break through these three ridges; and on their way to the ocean form the bay of Suisun, between the Diablo and Contra Costa ridges, the bays of San Pablo and San Francisco between the Contra Costa and San Mateo ridges, the Silver Gate at Be- nicia in passing through the Contra Costa ridge, and the Golden Gate at San Francisco in passing through the San Mateo ridge. San Francisco bay is on the average about 50 miles long and 4 miles wide, and 12 or 1 5 miles from the ocean, with which it is parallel. Near the middle of this long bay is the Golden Gate, which name is given to the whole channel, about 6 miles long, from the bay to the ocean, 4 miles wide at the broadest, and one mile wide at the narrowest part, where the depth exceeds 400 feet. On each side of the Golden Gate, between the bay and the ocean, lies a mountainous peninsula, narrow at the point and wide at the base; and on the northern end of the southern penin- sula stands the metropolis of California. On the western limit of the city is a flat beach, over which rolls and roars unceasingly the high surf of the wide Pacific Ocean. The wet sand offers for a distance of three miles a beau- tiful drive, such as can be found perhaps near no other American city save Boston. The harbor is always interesting, with its ships, ferry steamers, sail-boats, occasional war ships, and wharves, many of which are occupied for special purposes, as for lumber, coal, wheat, China steamers, Oregon steamers, Southern Coast steamers, Italian fishermen, etc. On the other side of the bay we see the mole and wharves of Oakland and Alameda; and beyond, on the shore, we see towns, cultivated fields, the Contra •20 SAN FRANCISCO. Costa ridge rising to a height of 2,000 feet, and beyond that the summit of Mt. Diablo, 3,850 feet high, and 30 miles off. It is to be remembered that we get our impressions of San Francisco bay from looking down upon it from elevations of 300 and 400 feet; not from the wharves, as in New York and other maratime cities generally. If we look north, we see the Golden Gate, six miles long from east to west, and a mile wide at the narrowest point, and beyond that the high, steep cliffs of the peninsula of Marin county. At the eastern point of the peninsula is the beautiful village of Sau- salito, partly hidden in its trees. Alcatraz Island and Angel Island are prominent features in the view; and above them rises the beautiful mountain of Tamalpais, 2,600 feet high, and 12 miles away. Opposite to Tamalpais is the small island of Red Rock, over which we see the mountains bounding Sonoma and Napa valleys, and over them, from the higher points in the city, we see the flat summit of the extinct volcano of St. Helena, 65 miles away, and 4,343 feet high. The wild shores of the Golden Gate, near the ocean, either when green with the verdure of spring, or when the rich brownish and purplish tints of the earth and rock are mingled with the yellow of the dried grass in the late summer, are very romantic. And then at the outer point, in the northwestern corner of the city, is the beautiful park known as the Sutro Heights, rich in vegetation and ornamenta- tion, overlooking the ocean, the entrance of the bay, and the Seal Rocks, with their multitude of sea-lions, which lie there in security on the rocks, and swim about in the water every day in the year. Twenty-eight miles westward are the islands known as the F arallones. Turning southward, we see the southern arm of the bay, with Mission and Islais cpves, Mt. San Bruno, and the mountains east of San Jose; and with a good telescope on a clear day we can see the Lick Observatory, 4,440 feet high, on the summit of Mt. Hamilton, 50 miles away, as well as peaks beyond. From north to south we see more than 100 miles, and from east to west at least 50 miles. In the southwestern corner of the six miles square of the city’s area is Lake Merced, shaped like a horseshoe and two miles long; near the northwestern corner is Mountain Lake, and about half- way between them, and 400 feet above the sea-level, was Lake Honda, now converted into a reservoir for supplying the city with water. By many noted travelers, Naples has been declared unequaled among great cities in the beauty of its surrounding scenery; but that beauty is limited, it may be said, to a single view, — the one from the western part of the city, looking across the water- front in the middle ground towards Vesuvius on the left, and towards the island of Capri on the right. A grand landscape is there spread out before the spectator, and he who does not admit it in its presence, and remember it with pleasure afterwards. SAN FRANCISCO. 21 must be dull indeed. Although superior to any one scene at San Francisco, it stands alone, and is far inferior in interest to the ag- gregate of fifty different views in and about our city. The bay of Naples has less beauty and variety, fewer islands, less active ship- ping, and lower, tamer, and less indented shores than ours. Its mountains are on only one side; its water is on only one side; it has no surf; no Seal Rocks; no Golden Gate; no lakes; no mul- titude of independent hills; no roads reaching an elevation of 600 feet, winding among high hills; no such wide area of public grounds as are here found in the Golden Gate Park and the Pre- sidio tract; and no high points in the vicinity from which it can be overlooked from various points of the compass. The views towards our city from the hills of Sausalito, Angel Island, Berke- ley, Piedmont, and San Bruno contribute much to the attractive- ness of the situation of San Francisco. Next to Naples, Geneva has the repute of having the most beautiful position for a city in the enlightened part of Europe, and no one can see it without being enchanted with its delicately tinted lake and river, the romantic shores of the lake, the wide views from Mt. Salfeve, and the snow-clad summit of Mt. Blanc and the adjacent Alps; but these in their sum, after all, do not equal or even approach the landscape attractions of the California metropolis. If any other city looks down over a landscape more extensive, more varied, and more beautiful than ours, let us know where. If there be one such, it would deserve a visit from the remotest corners of the globe. Trees and Shrubbery. — In trees San Francisco is singu- larly bare. As we look down over it from the hilltops, we can scarcely see any trees in the wide streets, and such trees as may be observed are cut down every year, so that they shall not be- come tall or wide-spreading. The people demand sunshine; they want to occupy the sunniest rooms and the sunniest side of the street in summer as well as in winter. Shade and large shade- trees are objectionable. The yards and gardens are often spa- cious, but are occupied with grass, flowers, and low shrubs. Such as we have are unlike those of any city out of California. The most characteristic tree is the Monterey cypress, which in its indigenous specimens is found only within a mile or two of Cypress Point at Monterey. When growing in its native forests it assumes extremely ragged and picturesque shapes; but culti- vated and trimmed, it becomes the most tractable and least pic- turesque. It can be trained into the densest, widest, and highest of hedges, into columns, urns, cones, spheres, or hollow squares. In no San Francisco specimen is the picturesque raggedness of the young tree as seen near Cypress Point preserved, much less heightened, as it might be. Another Californian tree abundant in San F rancisco, is the Mon- terey pine, which like the cypress thrives in the cold fogs of the coast and grows rapidly. In its younger years its top, suggest- SAN FRANCISCO ive of candelabra, is beautiful. Its bluish green foliage con- trasts well with the yellowish green of the cypress. The Lawson cypress, another Californian tree, has a beautiful droop in its foliage. To Australia we are indebted for the eucalyptus trees and the acacias, which are abundant in our streets and parks. The Nor- folk Island pine, one of our most remarkable trees in appearance, like all those previously mentioned, would not endure the cold winters of the Atlantic slope in the same latitude, and like them is never seen in the streets of northern or central Europe, though it may be found in some botanical gardens near the sea. The pepper tree is common in the city, but does not become so beautiful and grow so large as in the southern part of the state. The Pittosporum is a general favorite on account of its hardy growth, its dense foliage, its curly leaves, and its light yellowish green color, contrasting well witli the darker tints of the other evergreens. The cabbage-palm or cabbage-tree (so called because at a dis- tance the cluster of leaves on its thin stem suggests a cabbage- head) comes from New Zealand, and like the eucalyptus grows better here than in its native land. The date-palm grows, but will not bear fruit here. It is only recently that the value of the tree for ornament has begun to be appreciated here, and the few in the city are as yet very young. Fan-palms are numerous, but they are often injured by the higli wind, and sometimes by frost. Besides these we have India-rubber trees, magnolias, English holly, laurustinus, euonymus, — all evergreens. Deciduous trees are rare. We have no horse-chestnuts or sycamores for ornament or shade; few maples, poplars, lindens, or elms. In the Golden Gate Park, acres are covered by thickets of scrub- oak, rather a bush than a tree. This is the evergreen oak, Quer- cus agrifolia, dwarfed by poor soil and exposure to the winds. In favorable situations and soils, as at Berkeley, it grows to be a large and beautiful tree, nearly if not quite equal to the kindred ilex or evergreen oak of Europe, one of the chief ornaments ol the Italian parks and villas. Century plants are numerous, and there is scarcely a day in the year when one may not be found blooming in San Eranciscn or Oakland. Among the notable trees, which however may not be the best specimens of their respective kinds in the city, are these: — Loquate at 818 and 822 Bush. A magnolia at the northwest comer of Taylor and California. A cabbage-palm at the northwest corner of Bush and Leaven* worth. An araucaria at 1019 California. English holly, southwest corner of Bush and Mason. Norfolk Island pine, northwest corner of Bush and Taylor, and northwest corner of Taylor and Ellis. ■SAX FRANCISCO. 23 Date-palm, Jackson, between Franklin and Gougli Olive, Turk, between Franklin and Van Ness. Tulip tree, southwest corner of Mason and Pine. India-rubber, 714 Sutter. Ficus tree, with large leaves, southwest corner of Powell and California. Sequoia gigantea, or mammoth tree, in Portsmouth Square and Union Square. Recognizable by rapid decrease in diameter of the trunk as it rises from the ground. Lawson cypresses along diagonal walks in Portsmouth Square. Pepper tree, southwest corner of Jones and Bush. Although the Californian pines and cypresses and Australasian acacias and cabbage-trees are lacking or very rare in Italy, and our Italian pines, cypresses, and date-palms are few and small, still there is much resemblance between the parks of that country and those of San Francisco in the general character of the vege- tation. The heliotropes, fuchsias, and geraniums are larger and more abundant here than there, showing that we have less frost, a fact that we can ascertain also from the meteorological tables. Of American cities there are few, and of European cities none, that approach San Francisco in the number of yards, in the front and at the side of dwellings, filled with flowers that bloom through a large part of the year. Large, blooming, sub-tropical shrubs, such as cannot be cultivated in the open air, in places where the temperature is often fully 10° below the freezing-point, are here abundant; including fuchsias, brugmansias, heliotropes, French roses, flowering verbenas, and geraniums; the calla lily, though of a different class, deserves to be mentioned with them. Many of the flowers of New York and Illinois are rare in Cal- ifornia, and most of our flowers cannot live there, in the open air, through the winter. A Great Seaport. — San Francisco is a great seaport, send- ing many large cargoes to distant countries, receiving others in return, and almost monopolizing the foreign commerce of the coast north of Mexico. Every ocean steamer line touching our conti- nent, between Sitka and Panama, has its terminus here. She is the only point which a traveler cannot avoid when passing round the globe by regular lines of steam communication. She is the chief center of the railroads west of the Rocky Mountains. Her exports, including treasure, exceed $100,000,000 annually. The bulk of the precious metals turned out by the mines of Cali- fornia and Nevada since 1848, amounting in value to nearly $2,000,000,000, has been forwarded to San Francisco. Much of it has been produced by mines owned here, and it has, therefore, helped to enrich the city. The most active of all stock mar- kets was that in which the shares of the Nevada mines wera sold from 1871 to 1877, while the Comstock Lode was in its most productive condition. San Francisco has one fifth of the popu- lation and one third of the wealth, and owns most of the bank- ing capital, rich mines, and railroads of the Coast. She counts 24 SAN FRANCISCO. more than 50 millionaires among her citizens; she has a large share of the manufacturing industry of the slope; and has the only sugar refineries, paint-mills, glass-works, brass foundries, and the largest rolling-mills, foundries, machine-shops, woolen- mills, and factories for the production of clothing, shoes, gloves, harness, cigars, furniture, carriages, and woodenware. Her vicinity is more densely populated, and yields more valuable agricultural produce, in proportion to area, than any other part of the slope. A Pleasure Resort. — A metropolis is necessarily, to some extent, a pleasure resort. It combines many attractions which cannot be found in small towns. Within a little space it hais a large number of men eminently successful as bankers, under- writers, merchants, lawyers, editors, manufacturers, and con- tractors. It is a center of intellectual and fashionable society, ot musical, dramatic, and pictorial art, and of educational influ- ences. It has commodious hotels, in which the stranger can live with comfort, and public amusements to occupy his attention every evening in the year. In all these respects San Francisco is not inferior to other metropolitan cities. Her cool summer attracts those who dislike intense heat; her warm winter attracts those who seek a refuge from intense cold. Extensive portions of our slope are so wild that the metropolis appears the more brilliant by contrast with them. As a pleasure resort, no city on our continent is entitled to so high a position. There are no nationalities in Europe, and few in the world, without representatives in San Francisco. Her inhabitants are not marked by the staid habits, grave demeanor, and cautious reserve of older communities. The enterprise and intelligence of many races are blended among her population, and the dull, the slothful, and the faint-hearted seldom find here an abiding- place. There is probably no city in the Union where so many men, starting in life with no capital but their own brains and industry, have achieved a marked success; and there are few better fields for honest, well-directed effort than can be found to- day in the metropolis of this coast. The wages of labor are still 15 to 30 per cent higher than on the other side of the continent, and 50 to 100 per cent higher than in European cities; while the cost of living is lower than in either. There are few parts of the world where money can be earned so easily or will purchase so much. The Streets. — The visitor usually lands in San Francisco at the foot of Market Street, which runs about northeast and south- west, and is the dividing line between the two main systems of streets. The other streets cross at right angles, and are num- bered from the water-front, or from Market Street, 100 numbers being assigned to each block. There are numerous avenues, but most of them are in portions of the city which are not yet built up. The principal ones are Montgomery Avenue, which connects Montgomery Street with the northern portion of the city, aa. SAN FRANCISCO. 25 Van Ness Avenue, 125 feet wide, and containing some very hand- some residences, extending from Market, just beyond Eleventh Street, in a northerly direction towards Black Point. The prin- cipal wholesale houses of the city are north of Market Street, on Sansome, Battery, Front, and Davis, and the streets that inter- sect them at right angles; the territory between First Street and the water-front, south of Market, is mainly occupied by iron foundries, machine-shops, planing-mills, and lumber-yards. Most of the banks, insurance companies, and offices are located on Montgomery or California Streets, and a few on Sansome Street. The principal retail stores are on Kearny Street, the southern portion of Montgomery Street, and the part of Market Street lying between Second and Fifth. Architecture. — The business portions of San Francisco con- tain many handsome and imposing structures, and year by yeal the wooden buildings that form the landmarks of earlier days are being crowded out by substantial brick and iron edifices. The residence quarters, however, are occupied almost exclusively by wooden houses, the mild climate and the liability to earth- quakes giving them the preference over any other description of dwelling. On Van Ness Avenue, and the streets lying to the west of it, the visitor may see a larger number of handsome wooden residences than he will find elsewhere within the same space in any city in the world. The objection of combustibility is greater elsewhere than here, because the redwood, which is used for weather-boarding, shin- gles, window and door frames, and most of the inside finish, burns with so little heat, and absorbs water so readily, that a fire in it can be extinguished with relative ease. In thirty years the city has not had a great conflagration, and the largest losses by fire in that period have been in brick buildings. The superior facility for shaping wood, and the abundance of machinery for planing and molding, has led to the adoption of more architectural ornamentation here than in any other city. The visitor from the East is at once impressed by the rarity of plain exteriors in the dwellings of the wealthy. The unparal- leled abundance of bay-windows, constructed to catch the sun- light, makes this pre-eminently the Bay-Window City. The houses are mostly designed for a single family, and many, if not most of them, have small yards in front for flowers. The leading business blocks are built up of brick, with the front on the ground-floor of iron, which allows nearly all the width to be occupied for windows and doors. The architecture is elegant and varied. The ceilings are high; the glass is large plate; merchandise of the most costly material and most elegant design is displayed with unsurpassed effectiveness; and the trav- eler who comes from Paris or New York sees at a glance that in many respects the shops of Kearny and Market Streets are not inferior to those of Broadway or the Boulevard des Italiens. In- deed, if he comes fresh from the capitals of England or France, 26 SAN FRANCISCO. lie will be astonished to see that the metropolis of California far surpasses those ancient and wealthy cities in the brilliancy with which its leading retail streets are illuminated at night. Market Street is, perhaps, the most impressive business street in the civilized world. Though inferior in some respects to the lead- ing streets of New York, Chicago, and Paris, still, when all its fea- tures are considered, — its great width and length, its numerous large and splendid buildings, its constant throng of street-cars, wagons, and footmen, — it has no superior, and so far I know, no equal. Before the close of our century it will probably be famous throughout the civilized world for its unquestioned pre- eminence. One feature that the visitor will notice in the prevailing style of architecture is the multiplicity of bay-windows, which are to be seen in almost every private house; and in many buildings, as the Palace Hotel, stud the entire front, adding much to the comfort of the- inmates, if marring somewhat the external ap- pearance of the edifice. A large proportion of the permanent population live at hotels or in furnished apartments, and one bay- window at least, with a sunny aspect, is considered important in rooms occupied by ladies. The sidewalks are mostly of plank, but artificial stone is rapidly coming into use in the business portions and fashionable residence quarters of the city. The streets on which the heavy business teaming is done are paved with cobbles or rectangular blocks of basalt; most of the others are planked or macadamized. Public Buildings, etc. — Among the notable buildings and places of a public and semi-public character are the following: — New City Hall, McAllister and Larkin Streets. Old City Hall, Kearny and Washington. United States Mint, Fifth and Mission. United States Appraisers’ Building, Washington and Sansome. Post-office and Custom House, Washington and Battery Branch Post-office A, 1309 Polk. Branch Post-office B, Mission and Eighth. Branch Post-office C, Mission and Twentieth. Branch Post-office D, foot of Market. National Treasury, Commercial near Montgomery. Fire Patrol Building, 106 Jessie. Fire Patrol Building, Eddy and Polk. Shot Tower, First and Howard. China Mail Wharf, foot of Brannan. Merchants’ Exchange, California below Montgomei, Safe Deposit, Montgomery and California. Stock Exchange, Pine near Montgomery. Wells, Fargo, & Co.’s Express, Sansome near California Chinese Merchants’ Exchange, 739 Sacramento. Cliff House, Cleary and Beach. Fort Point, Narrows of Golden Gate. California Market, California below Kearny. SAN FRANCISCO. 27 Nevada Bank, Pine and Montgomery. Bank of California, Sansome and California. Pacific Bank, Pine and Sansome. London and San Prancisco Bank, 224 California. Anglo-Californian Bank, Pine and Sansome. Tallant’s Bank, California and Battery. Hotels and Boarding-Louses. — • These are the addresses of some leading hotels and boarding-houses: — Palace Hotel, Market and New Montgomery. Baldwin Hotel, Market and Powell. Grand Hotel, Market and New Montgomery. Lick House, Montgomery and Sutter. Occidental Hotel, Montgomery and Bush. Russ House, Montgomery and Bush. Brooklyn Hotel, Bush near Sansome. American Exchange, Sansome near California. The Pleasanton, Sutter and Jones. Bella Vista, 1001 Pine. Berkshire, 711 Jones. Berest’ord, N. W. Bush and Stockton. Nucleus, E. Market and Third. Oriel, 1904 Market. Renton, 712 Sutter. Rossmore, 300 Stockton. Silver State, S. E. Ellis and Mason. Westminster, 014 Sutter. Windsor, 905 Market. Theatres, Libraries, etc. — California Theatre, Bush near Kearny. Baldwin Theatre, under Baldwin Hotel. Standard Theatre, Bush near Montgomery. Bush Street Theatre, Bush near Montgomery. Grand Opera House, Mission near Third, Tivoli Opera House, Eddy near Powell. The Orpheuin, 109 O’Farrell. The Alcazar, 114 O’Farrell. Panorama Building, Market and Tenth. Panorama Building, Mason and Eddy. Woodward’s Garden, Valencia and Fourteenth. Dan Sang Fung (Chinese) Theatre, 023 Jackson. Ann Quai Yuen (Chinese) Theatre, 814 Washington Mechanics’ Pavilion, Larkin and Hayes. Hall of California Pioneers, 5 Pioneer Place. Mercantile Library, 216 Bush. Mechanics’ Institute, 31 Post. Odd Fellows’ Hall, Market and SeventJ Free Library, Bush near Kearny. Law Library, City Hall. French Library, 120 Sutter. Bohemian Club, 430 Pine. 28 SAN FRANCISCO. Union Club, Stockton and Post. Pacific Club, Post and Grant Avenue. Art School, 430 Pine. Academy of Sciences, California and Dupont. State Mining Bureau, 24 Fourth. Masonic Temple, 6 Post. The Bancroft Library, Valencia near Twenty-seventh. Merchants’ League, S. Market and Fourth. Cosmos Club, 317 Powell. Deutscher Verein, 24 Fourth. Olympic Club, 111 O’Farrell. San Francisco Verein, 219 Sutter. Churches, Residences, etc. — Mission Church, Dolores near Sixteenth. Unitarian Church, Geary and Franklin (unfinished). Roman Catholic Cathedral, Geary and Van Ness (unfinished). Calvary Church (Presbyterian), Stockton and Powell. Trinity Church (Episcopalian), Post and Powell. Synagogue Emanu-El, Sutter near Powell. St. Ignatius Church (Catholic), Hayes and Van Ness. St. Patrick’s Church (Catholic), Mission near Third. Hop Wo Joss House, 751 Clay. Ning Wong Joss House, 230 Montgomery Avenue. Kong Chow Joss House, 512 Pine. Residence of Leland Stanford, S. W. California and Powell. Residence of Mrs. Searles (late Mrs. Mark Hopkins), S. E. Cali- fornia and Mason. Residence of Mrs. D. D. Colton, N. E. California and Taylor. Residence of Charles Crocker, N. W. California and Taylor. Residence of Robert Sherwood, California between Taylor and Jones. Residence of Lloyd Tevis, 1316 Taylor. Residence of J. B. Haggin, 1250 Taylor. Residence of Mrs. Theresa Fair, N. W. Pine and Jones. Mint. — ■ The United States Mint, fronting 161 feet on Mission and 217 feet on Fifth Street, one of the handsomest public build- ings in San Francisco, is built in the Doric style of architecture, with massive fluted columns at the entrance. The basement and steps are of Californian granite, and the upper walls of freestone obtained from Newcastle Island, in the Gulf of Georgia. The machinery is of the latest pattern, and is equal in efficiency to any used in the United States. When working to its full ca- pacity, the Mint can coin nearly 1,030,000 ounces per month. For the year 1878, the total coinage was $50,186,000. Visitors are admitted daily between 9 and 12 A. M. New City Hall. — The New City Hall on Park Avenue, McAllister, and Larkin Streets, is not yet completed, although work was commenced on it in 1871, and over $3,000,000 has already been expended on the building. The cost of the entire structure is estimated at $4,500,039. The foundation, which is SAN FRANCISCO. 29 of broken stone and cement, six feet in thickness, cost §600, 000. When completed, the main entrance will front on a wide avenue, leading into Market, opposite Eighth Street. The main tower is over 260 feet high. Hotels. — The first-class hotels in San Francisco are the Palace, the Occidental, the Baldwin, the Lick, and the G-rand. The Palace and Grand Hotels, located on the south side of Mar- ket Street, and on opposite sides of New Montgomery Street, are connected by a covered bridge. The G-rand does not, at present, furnish board to its patrons, and many of the guests take their meals at the Palace, which, besides its large dining- rooms, contains a restaurant where meals are served to order. The Palace is the largest hotel in the world, and cost, with all its equipments and furniture, about $7,000,000. It is seven stories in height, fronts 275 feet on Market Street, with a depth of 350 feet, contains 755 rooms above the ground-floor, and is capable of accommodating 1,200 guests. The building is solid, massive, and simple in its style of architecture. More than 30,000,000 bricks were used in its construction. Safe Deposit. — Another building that may interest the vis- itor is that of the Safe Deposit Company, on the southeast cor- ner of Montgomery and California Streets, in the basement. Here are steel-vaults of burglar-proof metal, and inclosed in fire-proof casing, containing 4,600 small safes, built in tiers, each one being furnished with a combination-lock. Surrounding the vault is a corridor, where men keep guard day and night, and communicate every half-hour with tae headquarters of the police. Here travelers, stopping for a short time in the city, can deposit money, jewelry, securities, or valuable papers, at a very moderate charge by the day, week, or month. Packages containing valuables can be left over for a single night at a charge of 50 cents. Stock Exchange. — To many strangers, one of the most in- teresting and amusing experiences in San Francisco is a visit to the Stock Exchange. When mining stocks are lively, whether they are going up or down, the conduct of the brokers seems to verge on lunacy. Their movements, gesticulations, and shouts resemble the fury of a violent mob more than the conduct of sharp business men engaged in making important pecuniary con- tracts. It is difficult for the visitor to distinguish, amid the babel of sounds and the excited gesticulations of the bulls and bears, a single word that is uttered, and he will wonder how the caller manages, amid the uproar, to note each transaction with such accuracy that, though thousands of shares may have changed hands, when the list of sales is afterwards read off by the clerk, the caller’s decision is seldom disputed. Around the oval is a walnut railing, on the outer side of which, on the main floor, are seats for spectators who pay for the privilege, and are usually occupied by persons who want to buy or sell stock. In 1876, when the mining stock excitement ran high, it cost $30,000 to be admitted to membership in this exchange. so SAN FRANCISCO. The building was erected at a cost of nearly $900,000, and is over 80 feet in height, with a cupola rising 85 feet above the roof. The front is composed of alternate layers of dark and light colored granite; and the entrance is flanked with pil- lars of polished granite, and floored with English tiles, the walls being wainscoted with marble. The visitor passes through elab- orately carved doors of walnut, that cost $1,000 each, into the vestibule, on the right of which is a committee-room, and on the left the members’ private room. The board-room is wainscoted with black Belgian marble, above which is a panel of gray Ten- nessee marble, and above this again a border of carved primavera wood. The caller’s desk is at the farther end of the room, facing the entrance, and in the center is an oval space where the brokers buy and sell, as each stock is named by the caller. When stocks are up, a visit to the board is very interesting. The members of the board can give permits for admission to the gallery. Nob Hill. — A ride of less than five minutes from the ter- minus of the California Street cars, and the expenditure' of five cents, will bring the tourist within sight of the costly residences built by the railroad magnates of California. The sum ex- pended in their erection, with all the improvements and furniture, is probably not short of $9,000,000. Alighting from the car at Taylor Street, the visitor may see in the course of an hour’s stroll the principal edifices on Nob Hill, while enjoying a view that presents some very striking features. Most are wooden buildings, and are among the largest frame residences in the world. First of these in renown is Leland Stanford, now president of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, and senator of the United States, and in 1861 and 1862 governor of the state. His wealth is estimated at $20,000,000, made in the Central Pacific, Cali- fornia and Oregon, and Southern Pacific railroads. He has announced his intention to endow a great university, to be estab- lished at Palo Alto, thirty-five miles south of the city; and it is expected that this will be the greatest gift ever made by any one individual to the cause of education. Senator Stanford’s house, on the southwestern corner of California and Powell Streets, is plain in its exterior, but large, and elegantly finished and fur- nished. The house of Mrs. Searles (late Mrs. Mark Hopkins), west of Stanford’s, and occupying half of the same block, has a higher site, a more showy style of architecture, and larger size. Rumor says the entire cost of house, land, and furniture was $4,500,000. Mr. Hopkins was the associate of Stanford in the Central Pacific Railroad enterprise from the beginning, and made his fortune of $20,000,000 in it. On the north western corner of California and Jones Streets stands the home of Charles Crocker, another original associate in the Central Pacific, and also enriched by it to the tune , of $20,000,000. His house is large and elaborate in its ornamen- SAX FRANCISCO. 31 tation. Edward B. Crocker, who died in Sacramento before the company moved its main office to San Erancisco, and C. P. Huntington, who has resided for more than twenty years in New York, complete the list of the five original directors of the com- pany. The three who came to reside in San Francisco estab- lished themselves at the elevated portion of California Street, and gave it credit. On the northeastern corner of California and Taylor Streets is the residence of Mrs. D. D. Colton, whose husband was one of the directors of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company for sev- eral years before his death. He was not enriched by it, and his estate was involved at his death. He had previously been con- sidered wealthy, having made much by the rise of real estate bought about the year 1S60. On the northwest comer of California and Taylor Streets is the new house of James C. Flood. It is the only building of brown sandstone in the state. The material was brought from the At- lantic coast. Mr. Flood and his partner, W. S. O’Brien, kept a stylish liquor saloon for about fifteen years before they obtained control of several mines in Virginia City, which, under the man- agement of their partners, John Mackay and James O. Fair, yielded $150,000,000 gross, and $100,000,000 net in five years. Mr. Flood’s fortune is estimated at $10,000,000. He is the only one of the bonanza firm who has erected a home in San Francisco. Mr. Fair bought a lot on the northeastern corner of California and Jones Streets, and began to improve it, but his wife obtained a divorce with $4,000,000, and work on the lot ceased. His offi- cial residence is in Nevada, which has elected him as one of its federal senators. His fortune is estimated at $10,000,000. In the middle of the block, opposite Charles Crocker's house, is that of Robert Sherwood, a pioneer jeweler, who speculated with success in mining stocks, and now, according to rumor, is worth about $4,000,000. The house on the southeastern corner of Taylor and Jackson Streets belongs to Lloyd Tevis, president of the Wells, Fargo, & Co. corporation. He has made about $10,000,000, according to report, in mines, banking, expressing, money lending, and specu- lation; and is now the leading banker of California. • On the southeastern comer of Taylor and Washington Streets is the home of J. B. Haggin, who has been intimately associated in business with Mr. Tevis, and is generally supposed to have $6,000,000, or more. He and Mr. Tevis own controlling interests in several profitable mines, and he has a large tract of productive irrigated land south of Tulare Lake. The residences of the millionaires of California are not open to inspection by strangers. Business Houses. — The Palace Hotel may be regarded as the monument of William C. Ralston and William Sharon. Ralston came to California poor, became a bank clerk under C. K. Garrison, then partner with him, then cashier of the Bank 32 SAX FRANCISCO. of California, then its president, and after engaging in many great speculations, and causing the colossal failure of the bank, he died on the afternoon of August 26, 1875, a few hours after being requested by the directors to resign the presidency of the bank. The circumstances led to a suspicion of suicide, but no traces of poison or violence could be found, and the verdict of the coroner’s jury was congestion. Sharon also was poor when he reached California, and he made a fortune of many millions in mining and stock speculations. The granite building on the northwestern corner of California and Montgomery Streets, erected in 1853, is the most prominent production of John Parrott, the only one of the early San Fran- cisco millionaires who had as much as $100,000 when he arrived here. The granite was quarried and cut in China, and was car- ried to the masons by Chinamen. The Lick House recalls the history of James Lick, a native of Lebanon County, Pennsylvania, who, about the year 1830, for unexplained reasons, deserted the woman he had loved, and went to South America. By working there as a cabinet-maker and miller, he made $20,000, with which he turned up in San Francisco in 1847. He purchased a large number of lots at the cheap prices then prevalent, and the four lots on the west side e of Montgomery Street between Sutter and Post, now occupied by the Lick House, and worth $200,000 each, cost him only $16 each. In 1876 he died, leaving an estate of $3,000,000 or more, nearly all of it bequeathed by him for purposes of education and philanthropy. Several years will elapse before some of the institutions for which he provided can be established and placed in full operation. The granite-front buildings on the northeastern corner of California and Montgomery Streets, and at No. 420 Montgomery Street, were erected by Samuel Brannan, who landed in San Francisco on the thirty-first day of July, 1846, at the head of a party of Mormons, who had started from New York with the intention of founding a Mormon colony on the shores of our bay, under the dominion of Mexico. They were astonished and dis- mayed by finding that the United States had possession of the country. Brannan abandoned the Mormons, became a leading business man of San Francisco, and in 1853 was regarded as its wealthiest citizen. He lost much of his property afterwards, and is now struggling with fortune. Montgomery Block, on the southeastern corner of Montgomery and Washington Streets, was built by the law firm of Halleck, Peachy, and Billings, who derived a great revenue from the law, compelling all the owners of Mexican land-grants to sue the United States for confirmation of their titles, under penalty of confiscation. Halleck, who had been educated at West Point, afterwards returned to the military service, and became for a time senior major-general in command of the armies of the United States in the war of the Rebellion. SAN FRANCISCO. 33 The Nevada Bank was built by Flood and O’Brien out of their profits made in the Consolidated Virginia bonanza, and stock speculations stimulated by it. The buildings on the northeastern and southwestern corners of Montgomery and Pine Streets were erected by Andrew McCreary, who began life as a porter in a wholesale grocery on Front Street, and became a millionaire by speculating in the stocks of the Sav- age and Gould and Curry mines. The large building at 721 Market Street was erected out of the profits of the book and stationery business by the Bancroft broth- ers, who came to California with little capital, and now have one of the most complete publishing houses in the United States, and have engaged in some very extensive and successful publishing enterprises. The works of H. H. Bancroft, the elder brother, relating to the western slope of our continent, make up the most extensive series of histories ever undertaken by one man. They are prominent contributions to American literature, and possess an enduring value. The Cooper Medical College, at the northeastern corner of Sacramento and Webster Streets, was erected and given to the cause of education by Dr. L. C. Lane, a surgeon of eminent learning, capacity, and professional skill. At the intersection of Octavia and Clay Streets is a small astro- nomical observatory, erected and occupied by Professor George Davidson, head of the United States Coast Survey on the Pacific side. The means for the construction of the Baldwin hotel and theatre were obtained from a lucky investment in the stock of the Ophir mine at Virginia City. E. J. Baldwin, generally known as “Lucky” Baldwin, long keeper of a livery-stable, and not very prosperous, had obtained possession of 20,000 shares when prices were low, and he held on until January, 1874, when he sold out to Ralston for 8320 a share, or §6,600,000. Within a day or two after the sale, the excitement culminated, and a ter- rific collapse speedily followed. Ralston was a bankrupt, and Baldwin a millionaire. For years Alvinzo Hayward worked under discouraging cir- cumstances in a quartz mine at Sutter Creek, in Amador County, and though denounced by his neighbors for his persistence, stuck to the place until it enriched him, and furnished the basis of a fortune of many millions for him as well as for his brother-in-law, Senator John P. Jones. It may be said that the Hayward mine furnished the means for the Hayward Building, at 419 California Street. A harder and longer battle with fortune than Hayward’s was won by James P. Pierce, in the Blue Gravel Hydraulic mine, at Smartsville, Yuba County, and the building at 317 California Street is the result of success. The Eureka Quartz mine, at Grass Valley, furnished to James 3 34 SAN FRANCISCO. and P^obert Watt the means of erecting the building on the south- western corner of Clay and Kearny Streets. The Occidental Hotel grew out of the first San Francisco iron foundry, which was so extremely profitable that the Donahue brothers, its proprietors, became millionaires. The Russ House recalls the name of a private soldier in Steven- son’s Regiment, who arrived in California in 1847, bought the two lots on the west side of Montgomery Street, between Pine and Bush, for $32, and after his discharge from the service opened a silversmith’s shop, in which he bought some of the first gold from the mines at $4 an ounce. The building on the northwest corner of Sansome and Clay occupies the place to which the ship Niantic was drawn in 1869. She was dismantled and converted into a storehouse, with access from the dry land by a wharf. After having been burned down in afire, a wooden hotel called the Niantic was erected over the old ruin, and after that had been destroyed by fire the pres- ent brick edifice arose on the site. The oldest wooden building in the city, at 30 Washington Alley, near Jackson Street, east of Dupont, was erected by Samuel Brannan in 1847. The original front is now hidden. The oldest brick building is on the northwestern corner of Washington and Powell. It had only two stories when erected, but the grade of the street was afterward cut down so much that two additional stories were built under it, and now it has four stories. The only marble front is at 641 Washington Street. The mar- ble came from Vermont. Works of Art. — In San Francisco and its suburbs there are about a dozen private galleries of paintings, including the works of many distinguished artists; and I regret that I have not per- mission to give the names of their owners and a list of their noted pictures. The visits of strangers to the dwellings for the purpose of seeing the works of art, are, as a general rule, unwel- come. Of public art collections in and near San Francisco, the most notable are the State University Gallery at Berkeley, the Nahl Gallery, and the Art Association collection, mainly plaster casts, in San Francisco. The Nahl Gallery, belonging to H. W. Arthur Nahl, and col- lected mostly by his grandfather, J. A. Nahl, director of the Painting Academy of Hesse Castle, is now on exhibition at 723 Market Street, open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays from 9 A. m. till 4 P. m., admittance free. It has 150 works of art, in- cluding originals by Velasquez, Van Dyke, Rubens, Rembrandt, Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Rafael, Domenichino, Correggio, Paul Veronese, Guercino, Guido, Ruysdael, Wouvermans, Spagnoletto, J. A. Nahl, J. W. Nahl, C. C. Nahl, and H. W. A. Nahl. The pictures are quite as good, on the average, as those of the old masters in European cities, and the gallery well deserves a visit. SAN FRANCISCO. 35 The Bacon Art Gallery, belonging to the University of Cali- fornia, in Berkeley, named in honor of Henry D. Bacon (who gave the building, three pieces of statuary, and ten paintings), contains about 73 works of art. The sculptures are: first, an excellent marble copy, the same size of the original of Dannecker’s Ariadne; second, the Genius of America, or the Abolition of Slavery, by Halbig; and third, Bathing Nymphs, by Halbig. The chief oil painting is Washington at the Battle of Mon- mouth, by Emanuel Leutze, one of the ablest historical painters of the Dusseldorf School, and this is one of His best pictures. Other notable recent paintings are Susannah at the Bath, by E. Jacobs, and Yosemite in Winter, by A. Bierstadt. Besides these there are originals, or paintings supposed to be originals, by Ru- bens, Rembrandt, Guido, Murillo, Correggio, Durer, Claude, Eugene Verboeckhoven, David Teniers, and Nicholas Poussin. There are 1,100 photographs of ancient and modern statuary about 8 by 10 inches in size, the most complete collection of the kind belonging to any public institution. In the art gallery of Woodward’s Garden there are three large landscapes by Virgil Williams. Two of these show the Roman Campagna from different points of view, looking towards the Alban Hills, and the third is a scene from the Napa Soda Springs, looking over the valley towards San Francisco, with Tainalpais in the distance. There are two marble busts, — one of Califor- nia, by Hiram Powers, a copy from his original life-size, full- length statue, which is now in a private gallery in San Francisco. Powers was accurate in his anatomy and careful in his finish, but his California, like other productions of his fancy, lacks action, vivacity of expression, and delicacy of feature. The San Francisco Art Association, on Pine Street below Kearny, has a collection of plaster casts from many famous an- tique statues, given to the association by the French govern- ment, and also casts of the Elgin marbles, the metopes and frieze of the Parthenon. The society also has a number of pic- tures, and gives two exhibitions every year. The dining-room of the Lick House has twelve large oil pic- tures, including Shasta from Sisson’s, Yosemite, the South Dome, the Sentinel, and the Redwoods, by Thomas Hill, and the Golden Gate and the Cliff House, by G. J. Denny. The office of the Lick House has a view of the beach and the ocean at sunset; and the reading-room has a picture of California, as the Goddess of Plenty, painted in colossal size by Oscar Ku- nath for the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia. The Palace Hotel, in its parlor in the second story, has a pic- ture of the Royal Arches, by Thomas Hill; and in the reading- room a portrait of W. C. Ralston, true to the life in feature, color, and expression, by S. W Shaw. The S. P. railroad ticket-office under the Grand Hotel has a Yosemite picture by Thomas Hill. 36 SAN FRANCISCO. The Baldwin Hotel has, in the office, oil pictures of Mt. Shasta and of the Redwoods, by Thomas Hill. The Pioneer Hall has a full-length oil portrait of James Lick, by William Hahn; photographs of James W. Marshall, the gold discoverer, J. A. Sutter, and John C. Fremont, and a marble bust of H. W. Halleck. The Mercantile Library has in its reading-room a large, unfin- ished picture by David, the famous French painter of that name. The bronze monument, by W. W. Story, of Francis Scott Key, author of the Star Spangled Banner, in the Golden Gate Park, is not yet complete. The pictures in the panorama buildings are changed from time to time, and nearly all deserve to be seen. The hest piece of out-door statuary in the state is the bronze monument of Garfield in the Golden Gate Park. Garfield is represented in a figure ten feet high, when he was about to com- mence the delivery of his inaugural address on the steps of the national capitol. His position is easy, graceful, and dignified; his face is a good likeness; his clothing is simple and true. The pedestal is fourteen feet high, and at its base sits Columbia mourning for the dead hero. In her hand is his palm-wreath, and her face is full of grief. Her drapery is managed with much skill and effect. A low relief on the pedestal shows Garfield taking the oath of office, and at the sides are panels emblematic of his life. The sculptor is F. Happersberger, a native of Cali- fornia, who received his art education in Munich. South of the Golden Gate Park, at the intersection of the lines of Sixteenth and Ashbury Streets, on a hill 700 feet high, called Mt. Olympus, is a group of statuary, cast in artificial stone, called the Triumph of Light. The group, which is so arranged that it can be surmounted by a light of gas or electricity, was erected by Adolph Sutro as an ornament to the city. The main figure is about 15 feet and the pedestal 25 feet high. Churches. — The handsomest and largest church building of San Francisco is the Jesuit College of St. Ignatius, occupying the block between Yan Ness, Franklin, Hayes, and Grove Streets. A large part of the structure is used for educational purposes. The church hall is 200 feet long, and will accommodate 6,000 peo- ple. Over the altar is a large oil picture by Tojetti, representing St. Ignatius Loyola at his reception in heaven. The spires are 275 feet high, the highest in California. St. Patrick’s (Catholic) Church on Mission Street, near Third, has a chime of bells pre- sented by Peter Donahue, and the largest organ in California. St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedral has a picture of the Immaculate Conception, by Capatti, not a work of great merit. The Syna- gogue Emanu-El, on Sutter Street, near Powell, is one of the finest buildings of its kind on our continent. The Catholic Cathedral on Van Ness and Geary Streets, and the Unitarian Church on Geary and Franklin, will presumably be handsome structures. SAN FRANCISCO. 37 The oldest building in San Francisco, and the one most notable considered historically, is the Mission Church, on the corner of Dolores and Sixteenth Streets. The mission was founded October 8, 1776, and we have no record of the time when the structure was commenced or finished, but the date of completion was probably not earlier than 1786. The adobe walls are three feet thick, resting on a low foundation of rough stone, not laid in mortar; and the roof was covered with heavy semi-cylindrical tiles. The floor was of earth, except near the altar, and the entire structure was rude in character. The walls remain, a shingle roof gives better protection against the rains than the tiles ever did, and the church is still used for purposes of worship. Ad- joining it is the old Mission Cemetery, not used for purposes of interment since 1858. Most of the inscriptions are in Spanish, and among the tombs are those of James P. Casey, an ex-convict from the New York penitentiary at Sing Sing, executed in 1856 by the Vigilance Committee for murder. He was one of a gang of unscrupulous ballot-box stutters who disgraced San Francisco from 1852 to 1856. His monument prays for mercy to his “per- secutors,” but does not suggest his own crimes. The grave of Don Luis Arguello, the first governor of California under the Mexican dominion, is also here. Clubs and Libraries. — San Francisco has seven public libraries, with about 200,000 volumes in the aggregate. The principal of these are the Free, the Law, the Mercantile, the Mechanics’, the Odd Fellows’, the San Francisco Verein, and the French. The largest is the Mercantile with 60,000 volumes. There are half a dozen clubs, including the Pacific, the Union, the Bohemian (including many journalists and artists), the San Fran- cisco Verein (German), the Ligue Nationale Fran^'aise (French), the Society of California Pioneers (membership is limited to those who arrived in California before January 1, 1850, and their descendants), the Society of Territorial Pioneers (membership limited to those who came before September 9, 1850), and the various German Turnvereins. The city has German, French, British, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Scandinavian, Swiss, and Dalmatian societies of mutual aid, and many of them render assistance to poor immigrants of their respective nationalities. San Francisco Drives. ■ — Among the drives in San Fran- cisco most worthy of attention are the following: — 1. The Golden Gate Park. 2. The Hill Park. 3. The Cliff House, which can be reached either through the Park or by way of Geary Street. 4. The beach, accessible by Geary Street or through the Golden Gate Park. This beach is three miles long, and is in the best condition for driving at low tide, wet sand being much more compact than is dry. 5. The Mission Pass Road, leading from the mouth of Merced Creek (the outlet of Lake Merced) eastward to Market Street, 38 SAN FKANCISCO. across the hills, and surmounting the ridge at Mission Pass which is 600 feet high, has a good view of the city and hay. After leaving the ocean, this road, for nearly a mile, follows Merced Creek, and a mile and a half from the beach is the Ocean House, near the bank of Lake Merced, which is shaped like a V, one arm being a mile and the other a mile and a half long, the average width being about a sixth of a mile. The water is fresh, and when the reservoirs of the Spring Valley Company, in San Mateo County, threatened to run short, has been pumped up to furnish part of the water supply of San Francisco. 6. Lone Mountain Cemetery. 7. The Almshouse Road. This leads southward from the middle of the Golden Gate Park, by way of the Lake Honda Reservoir, and southeastward to the Mission Pass Road. 8. The road from the Golden Gate Park southwestward to the Ocean House. This road has no attractions, and part of it has been covered with drifting sand. 9. The Presidio Reservation roads. 10. Along the water-front, from Powell Street to the South San Francisco 13ry Dock, including a visit to the rolling-mill at Potrero Point. A rolling-mill, for a person who has never seen one, is a very interesting sight. 11. A drive to the top of Mt. San Bruno, ascending at the northwestern corner of the mountain. The summit (seven miles from the New City Hall in San Mateo County, and 1,325 feet high) cannot be reached with a wagon, but the distance to walk is not more than a cpiarter of a mile. There is no shade on the mountain, and the chief attractions are its elevation and accessi- bility. From the Baden station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, the distance to the mountain-top is about two miles. The most attractive drives in adjacent counties near enough to be enjoyed without absence from the city over night are Pilarci- tos Reservoir, San Mateo Canyon, the vicinity of Belmont, the vicinity of Menlo Park, and La Honda, in San Mateo County; Penitencia Canyon and Pacific Congress Springs, in Santa Clara; Berkeley, Wild Cat Canyon, the Fish Ranch, San Pablo Canyon, Piedmont, the circuit of Piedmont Hill, Moraga Valley, Hay- wards, the Laundry Farm, and the Oakland Cemetery, in Ala- meda County; Alhambra Valley, in Contra Costa County; Blithedale, White’s Hill, Nicasio, by the Petaluma road, and. Ross Valley, by the hill from San Rafael, in Marin County; Napa Soda Springs, in Napa County; and the Sonoma vineyards, in Sonoma County. Many of these places are accessible to good walkers, who leave the city in the morning and return in the evening. Among the points within reach from San Francisco without staying away more than one night are, Mt. Diablo, Mt. Hamilton, Mt. Tamalpais (by horseback), Mt. St. Helena (by horseback), the Magnetic Springs, Pescadero, Howell Mountain, Pope Valley, Bolinas, and the petrified forest of Sonoma. Of these drives in adjacent counties, mention will be made hereafter. SAN FRANCISCO. 39 San Francisco Picnic Grounds. — The places preferred for picnics by the San Francisco people are Woodward’s Gar- den, the Harbor View Garden and the Golden Gate Park, and the Ocean Beach, in the city; Badger’s Park, Shell Mound Park, Berkeley, Piedmont, and Strawberry Canyon, in Alameda County; Fairfax Park, Laurel Grove, Lagunitas Station, and Sausalito Canyon, in Marin County; and Belmont, in San Mateo County. Woodward’s Garden, Harbor View, Badger’s Park, and Shell Mound Park are usually crowded on Sunday in the summer, so that quiet people prefer to go there on week days. On pleasant Sundays in the summer, the Lone Mountain Ceme- tery, the Golden Gate Park, and the Alameda Baths attract large numbers of visitors. Golden Gate Park. — San Francisco has several public parks, the largest being the Golden Gate Park, three miles long and half a mile wide, with an area of 1,013 acres. It extends from the ocean beach eastward to Stanyan Street; and from that street to Baker, two thirds of a mile, there is an avenue 500 feet wide. This is one of the largest city parks. The New York Central Park has 862 acres; Fairmount Park, at Philadelphia, 2,706; Druid Hill Park, at Baltimore, 550; Prospect Park, Brook- lyn, 550; Hyde Park, London, 389; Regent’s Park, 473; and the Bois de Boulogne, near Paris, 2, 158 acres. There are several large English parks not far from London. Cincinnati and St. Louis have no large parks. The improvement of the Golden Gate Park was commenced in 1874, and in intervening years about $850,000 was spent in its improvement. The greater portion of its area was bare sand dune; and to fix the drifting sands, to obtain good soil, and to make trees grow, under the strong breezes of the Golden Gate, were not easy tasks. A very respectable success was made, and San Francisco can boast that, in some respects, her park is unequaled. The mountain sur- roundings are beautiful. The Peaks west of the Mission are only a mile distant, and are 925 feet high. Strawberry Hill, within the limits of the Park, has an elevation of 426 feet, and Lone Mountain in the vicinity of 468. There are places in the Park from which Mt. Diablo, Mt. Tamalpais, and the Golden Gate can be seen. The Park fronts on the ocean for half a mile; and the beach, for a length of two miles, is one of the most at- tractive of all beaches. The surf there is always beautiful, and often grand. The drives in the Park are numerous, and in excellent condi- tion. They are hard, smooth, free from dust in summer and from mud in winter. In laying them out, the natural undula- tions of the ground were used with much skill, so that they should wind about, with gentle ascents and descents, as well as level stretches, and obtain a succession of pleasing landscapes. Trees, mostly eucalyptus, Monterey cypress, and Monterey pine, have been planted out in large numbers; and if their growth has not been so rapid or beautiful as in the fertile valleys of the 40 SAN FRANCISCO. state, it has, nevertheless, done much to beautify the place, and give shelter against the winds. Near the eastern end of the Park, where nature had provided a small area of fertile soil, in what was formerly known as Sans Souci Valley, are a number of plats planted with flowers and ornamental plants, with intervening patches of grass and clumps of trees. Between 250,000 and 300,000 trees or shrubs are now in various stages of growth. A considerable portion of the ground has been graded, and sown with suitable grasses; and by the aid of plentiful irrigation, fine grass-plats and flower-beds have been formed. There are also several grottos, arbors, and artificial mounds, and numerous rustic seats. On a plateau about a quarter of a mile from the entrance of the Park is a conservatory 250 feet in length, the main attrac- tions of which are the orchid house, which is not yet fully stocked, but contains some handsome plants, and the fernery, where is a fine specimen of the Victoria Regia, or Amazon Water Lily, some of its leaves being six feet across. There are many miles of drive and walk laid out in the Park, and the main ave- nues are kept well watered every day during the dry season. The favorite drive leads down to the Pacific Ocean, and brings the visitor in sight of the sea within less than a mile from the entrance. The Geary Street cars, which start at intervals of three minutes from the junction of Geary, Market, and Kearny Streets, will convey the visitor to the Park in about twenty minutes for a five-cent fare. Southward two blocks from the eastern end of the wide portion of Park Avenue is the Hill Park, which is half a mile long from northeast to southwest, and a quarter of a mile wide, with an area of about 160 acres. An elevation of 570 feet at the highest point commands an extensive view of the city, bay, and ocean, and gives it some attractions not to be found in any other public park. Presidio Reservation. — Fronting on the Golden Gate for two miles on each side of Fort Point, and extending southward nearly two miles from the Point, with an area of about 1,500 acres, is the Presidio Reservation, the property of the national government, established for military purposes. Presidio is the Spanish name for a principal military station; and near Fort Point, Spain, and afterwards Mexico, maintained a presidio, and the name has been preserved by the Americans. The Presidio barracks have the largest military force on the western slope of the United States. Fort Point, situated at the narrowest por- tion of the Golden Gate, is a brick building, supplied with many heavy guns. General McDowell, late commanding the Pacific military division of the national army, made fine roads through the Presidio reservation, planted trees, and commenced other improvements, so as to convert it into a public park, which, in time, may rival the Golden Gate Park in its attractions. One of the pleasantest walks in the suburbs of the city is through the military reservation of the Presidio. Taking the SAN FRANCISCO. 41 cars on the California or Jackson and Powell Street line, the vis- itor should ride out to Central Avenue, and from that point the road leads off to the right towards the Presidio. After ascend- ing a small hill, he will come in sight of the Pacific Ocean in two directions, and will obtain a fine panoramic view of the bay and its encircling hills. At the foot of the hill three roads meet. The one to the right leads hack to San Francisco, and after pass- ing through the eastern gate of the Presidio, at a distance of about a mile from the starting-point, you meet the cars that run to the foot of Montgomery Street. The two roads to the left (at the foot of the hill) meet each other at a sharp angle, and lead through the barracks, now occupied by the First Artillery, out towards Fort Point. The upper one will take the visitor through the officers’ quarters, near which the band of the regi- ment, one of the finest in the service, plays every week-day after- noon at 2 P. m., except on Thursdays and Saturdays. If time permit, the walk may be extended a distance of about a mile from the barracks, to Fort Point, with its large fortress of brick, earthworks, and fine view of the Golden Gate. Point San Jose. — Another pleasant and shorter stroll in the neighborhood of the city is through the reservation of Point San Jose, which can be reached by the cars that leave the foot of Montgomery Avenue. The visitor should stop at Polk Street, and from this point the path leads off to the right towards the reservation. After passing through the entrance, close to which are the Pioneer and Mission Mills, the largest woolen factory west of the Missouri River, the road skirts the grounds of the officers’ quarters, at the gate of which are a couple of Spanish guns of very antiquated pattern. A few rods farther you reach a fort, near which are three 15-inch Rodman guns, the largest ever cast in the United States for general use, the exceptions being a few of 20-inch bore, made experimentally. They weigh about 25 tons, require a charge of 100 pounds of powder, and throw a solid projectile of 450 pounds, or a shell of 432 pounds. The site commands a very fine view of the bay; and the band of the Second Artillery plays at the officers’ quarters every Thurs- day at 2:30 P. M. Returning towards the entrance, the road leads off to the right to the western boundary of the reserva- tion, a short distance from which you again meet the Montgom- ery Avenue cars, or by following the line of the cars for a short distance in a westerly direction, the walk may be extended through the Presidio. Cliff House. - — One of the chief attractions and most famous places of California is the Cliff House, situated at Point Lobos, or the South Head, at the entrance of the Golden Gate. The house is a hotel built on a cliff at the edge of the ocean, and perhaps 100 feet above its level. Within 200 yards from the cliff are seven rocky islets projecting from the sea, and these, or the four nearest the Cliff House, are covered every summer day with sea-lions, which are near enough to be seen and heard distinctly, 42 SAN FRANCISCO. for they keep up a continuous barking. The animal is a large seal, sometimes reaching a length of eleven feet, and is very active in the water. Thousands of them swimming in the water and climbing over the rocks offer a singular sight, not to be seen elsewhere so near a city. They could easily be shot from the shore, but the law protects them; though the fishermen complain that the sea-lions greatly reduce the supply of salmon. The name of the sea-lion in Spanish is lobo marino (literally sea-wolf), and the Spanish name of the place was La Punta de los Lobos Marinos (the Point of the Sea-lions). The Cliff House is at the end of Geary Street, called also Point Lobos Avenue, end Cliff House road. Near the Cliff House the beach commences, and half a mile southward is the Golden Gate Park. On a clear day there is an unbroken view from the Cliff House of the Pacific Ocean for 30 miles, with the Farallone Islands lying low on the western horizon, and a fine sweep of the coast line both north and south, with a promontory of Point Reyes stretching away towards the north. Attached to the house are long sheds where horses and buggies are taken in charge by a hostler. The visitor can take lunch at the Cliff House, and afterwards drive back to San Francisco, by way of Golden Gate Park, which fronts on the sea-beach, or he may re- turn along the beach as far as the Ocean House, and return by way of the Mission Pass or the Almshouse. W oodward's Garden. — This favorite resort occupies a space of six acres between Valencia and Mission Streets, near Fourteenth, and can be reached by several lines of cars. The charge for admission is 25 cents for adults and 10 cents for children. This garden has many strong attractions, and as a cheap place of amusement for the multitude has no equal in the United States. It includes a menagerie, with grizzly bears, Californian panthers, coyotes, lions, tigers, kangaroos, and many other wild animals; a pond of sea-lions, which should be seen while getting their afternoon meal; an excellent aquarium; a conservatory with many tropical plants; a pavilion used for musical and theatrical performances on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, and occasionally for dancing and roller-skating; a gymnasium; a picture gallery ; a library; numerous amusements for children; a large variety of rare plants; and a restaurant. San Francisco Cemeteries. — There are eight public burial- grounds in San Francisco, of which three belong to the Hebrews, one each to the Masons, Odd Fellows, and Catholics, one to the city (used mainly for Chinamen and paupers), and the Lone Mountain Cemetery, as it is generally known, though the name adopted by the company managing it is Laurel Hill. Lone Mountain is a hill near by, but not within the limits of the tract. This cemetery, about two miles west from the corner of Montgomery and Post Streets, is on hilly ground. The soil is sandy, and 30 years ago was covered with evergreen scrub oak trees, many of which still remain, and contribute much to its SAN FRANCISCO. 43 beauty. The grounds have been laid off, and the lots improved, with great expense and fine taste. Costly and elegant vaults and monuments, and plats covered with flowers and ornamental plants in excellent condition, are numerous and varied. From the higher points, views of the city and Golden Gate can be ob- tained. The vault and monuments of W. C. Ralston, M. S. Latham, John P. Jones, W. F. Babcock, D. C. Broderick, Dr. E. S. Cooper, Gen. E. D. Baker, N. Luning, Horace Hawes, John Young, Judge Lyons, Thomas H. Williams, Charles Mc- Laughlin, Thomas H. Selby, Judge Lorenzo Sawyer, Hiram Pearson, J. W. Tucker, Dr. H. H. Toland, Wm. Pierce, Sisson, and Patten, are a few among a mulitude worthy of attention. Sir Charles Dilke expressed an opinion common among travelers when he said Lone Mountain is “the loveliest of all American cemeteries.” The visitor to Lone Mountain may be interested in seeing the Yerba Buena (Spanish for good herb), a kind of creeping mint, from which the village of Yerba Buena (changed in January, 1847, to San Francisco) obtained its name. The Catholic (Calvary) Cemetery, adjoining the Lone Mountain Cemetery on the south, and a little farther east, in general ap- pearance is much inferior to the Lone Mountain, but has some very large and costly monuments, well worthy of a visit. The vault of W. S. O’Brien (of Flood and O’Brien) is of polished granite, elaborately carved. The monument of Mrs. Wm. Sharon is of chiseled marble, and was imported from Rome. The vault of W. Dunphy, built in imitation of the altar in the cathedral of Notre Dame, and surmounted by a figure of Hope, was erected at a cost of $40,000, if rumor be true. Other notable monuments are those of John Dillon, Michael Hayes, Lynch, and Sheehy. The entrance to the Masonic Cemetery, a handsome and well- kept burial-ground, is on Point Lobos Avenue, and on the line of the Geary Street cars. The broad, serpentine walks, the foun- tain playing in the center, the profusion of flowers, and the large number of handsome monuments, make it well worth a visit. Near the entrance is a tall, castellated tomb. The Brittan monu- ment, a white marble obelisk, on the top of which is a statue of Grief, and one of polished Aberdeen granite, in memory of Dr. Hill, are among the many beautiful decorations. Besides these are the monuments of J. B. Fargo, Monroe Ashbury, James Savage, Spreckels, Piper, and Garratt. The Odd Fellows’ Cemetery, which adjoins the Masonic burial- ground, fronts on Point Lobos Avenue. One plat of 2,400 square feet is owned by the Grand Army of the Republic, and contains a beautiful monument, on which are inscribed the words “Mustered Out.” The railing is flanked with pieces of artillery. On a hillock, planted with trees, is an obelisk, erected at the expense of $16,000, in honor of Past Grand Master Parker, who intro- duced Odd Fellowship into California. 44 SAN FRANCISCO. Chinatown. — The Chinese population of California numbers at least 75,000, and of San Francisco about 22,000. It is esti- mated that there are in San Francisco 13,000 Chinese laborers and factory operatives, 5,000 house servants, 3,000 laundry men, and 1,000 merchants, storekeepers, traders, peddlers, and idlers. The female population is about 2,000, and there are but a few hundred children. Chinatown proper — that is, the portion of the city occupied almost exclusively by Chinamen — extends from Stockton Street almost to the border of Kearny, and from Sacramento to Pacific Streets, including all the lanes and alleys that lie between. The most densely populated portion of the quarter is the block on Dupont Street, which is bounded by Jackson and Pacific. Here one finds himself in a labyrinth of passages, where none but the Chinamen themselves, and a few of the police-officers, can thread their way with certainty. The main artery in this network is termed Sullivan’s Alley, and midway in the block is a passage two feet wide connecting Sullivan’s Alley with narrow lanes called Li Po Tai’s Alleys, from the fact that the greater portion of the property is owned by a Chinese physician of that name. On the north side of Pacific Street, and above Sullivan’s Alley, comes Ellick’s Alley, where are displayed some of the grosser features of Mongolian life. There are also in this neighborhood many nameless holes and corners through which the visitor will not care to pass. Joss Houses. - — - Of the six principal Joss houses in San Fran- cisco, one belonging to the Hop Wo Company is located at 751 Clay Street; one belonging to the King Wong Company at 230 Montgomery Avenue; one is at 35 Waverly Place; one at 512 Pine Street (the Kong Chow); one is situated in a lane on the north side of Sacramento Street, three doors below Stockton; and one on Jackson Street between Stockton and Dupont. There are also many small temples, some of them belonging to private parties, and others supported by the companies or trades to which they belong. The laundrymen have one of their own, in connec- tion with which is a sort of benevolent association. There are others belonging to the cigar -makers, and to different crafts. Except a few tinsel ornaments on the balcony, and a figure or two perched on the balustrade, there is nothing to distinguish the exterior of any of the pagan temples from the better class of buildings in Chinatown; nor is the interior decorated with any- thing approaching to the splendor of an Oriental edifice. John is too practical to expend his hard earnings in erecting costly houses of worship in a land where he finds no abiding- place. The wealthier Chinamen have, moreover, an idol of their own, before which they perform their devotions in their private apartments. In the Joss house on Waverly Place are several alcoves, in one of which are seated three gods, forming a sort of Chinese trinity. The middle one is named “Yum Ten Tin,” or the “God of the Somber Heavens. ” He is supposed to control SAN FRANCISCO. 45 all the waters of the earth and above the earth, to have the power of extinguishing fire, and putting an end to drought. He is a vegetarian, and only vegetables and tea are offered on his shrine. On his right sits the Chinese god of war, named “Kowan Tai. ” His image may frequently be seen in stores and dwellings, and in San Francisco he is the favorite deity, being supposed to have the power of settling disputes, quelling riots, and intimi- dating the most lawless of hoodlums. The third of the trio is worshiped as “ Nam Hoi Hung Shing Tai,” or the “God of the Southern Seas.” He is believed to have the control of fire, and when Chinamen or their effects are rescued from the flames, offerings are made to him of meat, vegetables, wine, and tea. In other alcoves are “Wah Tair,” the “God of Medicine,” who holds in his hand a large golden pill, and when invoked by certain mysterious incantations is supposed to cure all manner of diseases; and “Tsoi Pah Shing Kwun,”the “God of Wealth.” The last mentioned holds in his hand a bar of bullion, and has of course many earnest votaries; the coolie and the capitalist alike bend the knee before his shrine. There are other images in the temple, all of wood or plaster, and some of them repre- senting evil deities, which are also propitiated. The gods are never allowed to go hungry or thirsty. Food, tea, and some- times wine, are always set within easy reach. A large bell, cast in China, and an immense Arum, are used to rouse them when their slumbers are too protracted. In front of the altars are incense jars, filled with sand or ashes, where are kept, slowly burning, sticks of lighted incense, punk, or sandal-wood. In the Clay Street doss house are some copper screens, elaborately carved by hand, an 1 representing scenes from early Chinese his- tory. These are offerings presented as donations by wealthy Chinamen. In the Chinese mode of worship there is a remarkable lack of reverence and formality. They enter the temple as they would enter a lodging-house, chatting and smoking, and with covered head. Without uncovering, or ceasing their conversation, or even removing from their lips the cigar or pipe, they approach their favorite deity, go through the “chin-chinning process,” (bowing low three times) as rapidly as possible, leave their offer- ing, if they have one to leave, and go about their business with- out further ceremony. The female worshipers are more devout, often prostrating themselves before the deity, and giving utter- ance to their supplications with due reverence. The prayers and offerings of either sex are nearly all for some worldly good, — for success in business and in gambling, protection in journeys, freedom from calamity, recovery from sickness, etc. They have, however, a dread of purgatory, and their biggest worship days are when they pray the souls of their friends out of that supposed place of punishment. The priests obtain their livelihood from the sale of paper money, incense tapers, and other articles required by worshipers. 46 SAN FitAN CISCO. It is also customary for white visitors to purchase from them some trifle as a curiosity. Connected with some of the Joss houses are hospitals, each able to accommodate twenty-five to thirty patients. Here the sick are treated and nursed without charge. Few Chinamen care, however, to avail themselves of this opportunity, preferring when sick to remain among their friends. Even the indigent sick have a decided objection to being treated in a public building. The most interesting time for strangers to visit these temples is on the Chinese New Year, when grand services are held, offer- ings of all kinds are made, and large crowds of Chinamen gather for prayer. There is no special time for supplication, and during the day (at New Year), some pious-minded. Chinamen may be seen performing their devotions. Sunday in Chinatown. — Sunday is perhaps the best time to see Chinatown in full blast. On that day the many factories where Chinamen are employed contribute their quota to increase the swarm, and most of the domestic servants spend part of the day there. The sight is an instructive but not a pleasing one. In the Chinese workshops there is no cessation of toil. In the multitude of their shops and cellars they make cigars, or boots and shoes, or bend over sewing-machines, with backs that never tire. The cobbler is at work, seated on his box on the sidewalk, while a customer waits near by until his shoes are repaired. The barbers’ shops are still busy shaving and shampooing the polls of their countrymen. The shaving process is elaborate. The skin is scraped and washed from tbe shoulders upwards, excepting only the portion of the scalp from which the queue depends. The queue is washed, combed, oiled, and braided, and the eye- lashes trimmed and sometimes tinted. The Chinaman, as a rule, is very careful about his person, and especially about his ablu- tions. The veriest vagabonds, or thieves, or jail-birds that hang around the gambling-saloons, or lie two deep on and under the shelves of opium dens, are cleaner and more decently clad than many of the Barbary Coast denizens of San Francisco. Chinese notions regarding the exclusion of women forbid gen- tlemen being invited into their domestic apartments, but their families are visited daily by ladies connected with the Chinese missions. There are many family rooms in the rear of stores, and the majority of them are neatly and comfortably furnished, though in far too many instances they are overcrowded. The women brought here from China are often taken by their own countrymen as secondary wives, and the children born of them are, by Chinese law and usage, perfectly legitimate. The time of the women is occupied in needle-work, the making of fancy ornaments, and similar light occupations. The children are healthy looking, and appear to be well cared for. Their plump red cheeks, dark expressive eyes, and intelli- gent features are in marked contrast with the sad, stolid, and in- different gaze of the adult Chinaman. SAN FRANCISCO. 47 One may walk through the whole Chinese quarter without meeting more than half a dozen women; one or two of them, per- haps, holding children by the hand, and hurrying across the street as if they had no business there. Young children are seldom seen on the streets, and never alone. In their attire the, women can hardly be distinguished from the men. Their garments are the same in pattern, but wider and of better material. Their principal ornaments are worn in the hair, which in front is oiled and pasted close to the head, and at the sides and back is some- times rolled and puffed, and decorated with gilt ornaments and lofty combs. The coiffure of the women indicates whether they be married or single, and is changed at different ages. Rings of bone or ivory are worn around the wrists and ankles. Ear-rings and finger-rings, gilt or of brass, are also commonly used. At all hours of the day, and at most hours of the night, there is a kind of sluggish activity in Chinatown, but late in the even- ing one may witness the most striking scenes. A walk of a few blocks from the most brilliantly lighted portion of Kearny Street will take the visitor to the dingiest portion of the Chinese quar- ter, where the streets are narrowest and most gloomy. Chinese Holidays. — Festivals are almost as numerous among the Chinese as with the Russians; but there is only one that is universally observed as a holiday, and that is the Chinese New Year, which begins with the first new moon after the sum has entered the sign of Aquarius, and may therefore come at any time between January 21st and February 18th. In his mode of celebrating New Year, the Mongol is, in some respects, superior to the white man; he is never intoxicated, and he pays liis debts. To be in debt on New Year is considered disgraceful, and if there should be any laggard debtor who has not fulfilled his obligations, his creditors besiege him on the previous eve, and threaten and worry him until he has made a settlement. Otherwise, the fes- tival is celebrated in Chinatown very much as the white popula- tion, but with a little more noise. There is the same visiting from house to house, the same hand-shaking, the same kind wishes, and the same feasting. Instead of “ Happy New Year,” they exclaim, “New joy! New joy! Get rich!” Friendly salu- tations are exchanged on the streets. Cards of neat red paper, with the name of the visitor inscribed in Chinese characters, are left at each house. The oldest friends receive the first visits, and then the more intimate among their comrades. Bunting and lanterns and placards decorate the walls and windows; bombs and fire-crackers are exploded (the police permitting), and gongs and kettle-drums are beaten to drive away from earth all the bad spirits that may have collected on the scene during the past twelvemonth, and to usher in the new year without the presence of any evil influences. Other Chinese holidays are the day for the worship of the dead, usually in the first week in April; the feast of the goddess of Heaven, in the last week of April; and the distribution of moon cakes in the second week of September. 48 SAN FRANCISCO. Funerals. — Among Chinamen there is often much apprehen- sion that a suitable coffin may not be provided for the repose of their remains; hence a present of a handsome and well-made burial casket is no uncommon gift. At the better class of funer- als the body is usually dressed in new garments, and covered with a white cloth. Different kinds of meat, cooked and un- cooked, with vegetables, fruit, cakes, confections, tea, and wine are placed on tables at the feet of the corpse, and some of the food is presented to its mouth by the nearest relative. Some- times fish and fowls, and even hogs, are roasted whole for the occasion. The hired mourning women, dressed in white, then gather around, and on their hands and knees utter their lamen- tations and eulogies over the deceased. Fire-crackers are ex- ploded, and drums and gongs are beaten to scare away the evil spirits. The body is then placed in the hearse, and on the way to the burying-ground strips of paper, in imitation of Chinese money, purchased from the priest of the Joss house, are scattered with a liberal hand, in order to propitiate the bad spirits that may be hovering around the route. Paper money is also strewn and burnt around the grave. After the corpse has been deposited in the tomb, and the earth heaped upon it, candles and sticks of punk are lighted and placed around the spot. The food, wine, and tea are brought out to the grave. A portion of them are strewn about the place, and the party return to town and con- sume the remainder. There are no further ceremonies until a fortnight after the interment, when a day of special mourning is solemnized, if the deceased was a man of wealth or distinction, and especially if he was a parent. In such cases, the ceremonies are very elaborate, and the memory of the dead is perpetuated for many years. At the burial of women and infants, and also of men who, during life, were poor and without influence, there is little formality observed. On the second month of the Chinese year, and on the twenty- fourth day of the month, occurs the festival named Tsing Ming, • — the pure and resplendent. On that day the Chinese believe that the dead come forth from their graves and revisit the earth. Banquets, including all manner of delicacies, such as the living delight to partake of, are prepared for the ghostly visitors, and taken out to the burial-ground. The graves are repaired, the trees and shrubs are trimmed, and ceremonies performed similar to those held at funerals. The party then returns to the city, and a feast is spread, in which all participate. Chinese Theatres. — San Francisco has two Chinese theatres, — the only ones in America, — one at 623 Jackson, the other at 814 Washington Street. The charge for admission is twenty -five cents for Chinamen and fifty cents for white persons, who, how- ever, if they wish to be comfortable, should have a box, which in the Jackson Street theatre — the only one worthy of a visit — costs three dollars additional, and will hold from six to ten per- sons. The performance runs from 4:30 till 12 p. m., but the white visitor can see enough between 8 and 10 to satisfy his curiosity. SAX FRANCISCO 49 The stage is narrow, without curtain or shifting scenes, foot- lights, or pictorial art of any kind. A sign on the wall back of the stage with the words Dorn Quai Yuen in Latin letters, an- nounces that this is “ the Elegant Elower House.” Under that sign are the seats of the musicians, whose music, if that name can properly be applied to their noise, continues through all the plays, which seem to be semi-operatic in character. Two doors, one on each side of the stage, with their openings directly in front of the auditory, are used for all the entrances and exits. There is no division of a play into acts, and a scene lasts while there are actors on the stage. After a man is slain, he soon afterwards gets up and walks off. The idea of a change of place is conveyed by symbols. A little bush on the top of a chair, brought to the front of the stage, conveys the idea that the actors are in a forest. And the street, the seashore, a field, and the interior of a palace or a hut are suggested by similar de- vices. On the English stage, three centuries since, it was the custom to hang up a little sign stating the name of the town or the kind of a place in which the event was supposed to occur. As in Shakespeare’s time, so now in the Chinese theatre, specta- tors are allowed to go on the stage when there is not room elsewhere. Hie orchestra has half a dozen performers, using in- struments unknown to the English dictionary, but bearing some resemblance to violins, guitars, drums, and gongs. Their concert, a succession of squeaks, rattles, and bangs, ludicrous in its quieter intervals, and hideous in its more violent fits, provokes wonder at the taste of the nation which could invent, tolerate, and enjoy such discord. It has so little of either melody or har- mony that it sounds more like a caricature than a serious attempt to gratify the ear. The acting is all done in front of the orches- tra. The play often runs through several days, and usually represents prominent scenes in the life of some military hero, noted in the ancient history of China, — a fellow of superhuman strength, rare courage, and wonderful success in all his achieve- ments. Merchants. — -At 739 Sacramento Street are the new rooms of the Chinese Merchants’ Exchange. They are fitted up in the ordinary Chinese style, and though presenting no special attrac- tion to the visitor, the business transacted there is of considerable importance. A Chinese merchant, contractor, or speculator never starts on any enterprise alone. He always has at least one partner, and in most cases several. He makes no secret of his transactions, but converses about them at the exchange, and often goes there in search of capital when his own means are in- sufficient. He sometimes applies to that institution to find him a capable man to manage a new business which he is about to start. If, as often happens, one be selected who is in debt to other members, they make arrangements which will not interfere noth the new enterprise; and the debtor is not unfrequently re- leased from his obligations. 4 50 SAN FRANCISCO Restaurants. — The Hang Fer Low Restaurant, on Dupont Street, between Clay and Sacramento, is the Delmonico’s of Chinatown. The second floor of this and other leading restau- rants is set apart for regular boarders, who pay by the week or month. The upper floor, for the accommodation of the more wealthy guests, is divided into apartments by movable partitions, curiously carved and lacquered. The chairs and tables, chande- liers, stained window-panes, and even the cooking utensils used at this restaurant, were nearly all imported from China. Here dinner parties, costing from $20 to $100 for half a dozen guests, are frequently given by wealthy Chinamen. When the latter sum is paid, the entire upper floor is set apart for their accom- modation, and the dinner sometimes lasts from 2 p. m. till mid- night, with intervals between the courses, during which the guests step out to take an airing, or to transact business. Among the delicacies served on such occasions are bird’s-nest soup, shark’s fins, Taranaki fungus (which grows on a New Zea- land tree), Chinese terrapin, Chinese goose, Chinese quail, fish brains, tender shoots of bamboo, various vegetables strange to American eyes, and arrack (a distilled liquor made of rice); cham- pagne, sherry, oysters, chicken, pigeon, sucking pig, and other solids and liquids familiar to the European palate also find their places at the feast. The tables are decorated with satin screens or hangings on one side, the balconies or smoking-rooms are illu- minated by colored lanterns, and Chinese music adds to the charms of the entertainment. Chinese Missions. — • There are several missions in California, whose especial objects are the conversion of Chinamen to the Christian faith, their education, the visiting of Chinese families, and the reformation of Chinese women. In San Francisco the principal associations are the Presbyterian Mission, 800 Stockton Street, under the care of the Rev. A. W. Loomis; the Mission of the Methodist Episcopal Church, 916 Washington Street, in charge of the Rev. Otis Gibson; and the Woman’s Union Mission, at the northwest corner of Jackson and Dupont Streets. In con- nection with them are evening schools, where classes are instructed in the English branches by competent teachers. On Sacramento Street is a Home and Reformatory for Chinese women and chil- dren who have been rescued from slavery. The average attendance at all the evening schools, in California, is about 900, and the number of Chinese baptized in the Christian faith about 550. Guides and Strops. — It is not necessary to have a guide for the purpose of seeing Chinatown. The usual charge of the guides is $1 for each person. Many Eastern tourists buy porce- lain, silks, fans, and Chinese and Japanese curios in San Fran- cisco, finding greater variety and lower prices than in the cities on the Atlantic side. Most of the establishments where they make their purchases are on Dupont Street between California and Washington Streets, and are easily recognizable by then- display of porcelains and silks in their windows. In addition to SAN FRANCISCO. 51 these houses on Dupont are other establishments of the same kind at 640 and 709 Sacramento Street, and 521 Kearny Street. At all these places English is spoken. W eath.er. — The tourist must not expect to find enervating summer heat along the ocean shore in California north of latitude 35°. On the contrary, he may be assured that the average day will be chilly, and that he will need warm wraps when going out for a drive. The mean temperature here of July is 57°, or 1S° less than it is in New York. That means much. The mean temperature of 8 p. m. is about 50°, and that accompanied by a strong wind D so cold that a person needs heavy woolen under and over clothing and active movement to prevent decided discomfort. The mean temperature of July in the cities of the eastern part of the United States is 75°; and there 80° is considered an oppress- ive heat, such as is felt for several hours in each of 100 days in the course of the year. The meteorological records of San Fran- cisco show that in the 30 years from 1852 to 1881, inclusive, there were 195 such hot days here, including 6 in March, 14 in April, 15 in May, 33 in June, 17 in July, 17 in August, 56 in Septem- ber, 33 in October, and 1 in November. The monthly average is one half such a day in April, May, July, and August; one day each in June and October; and two days in September. Our av- erage year has only 6 days that reach 80°. October is our warm- est month. Of the days reaching 75°, the number in the year is twice as great as of those reaching 80°, and these are spoken of in San Francisco as uncomfortably warm, partly perhaps because the people have no summer clothing, and are unprepared for any variation from the ordinary cool temperature. For a drive along the beach, or over the Mission Hill road, or for a visit to the Hill Park, to the Presidio, or to the Golden Gate Park, it is important to select a warm day, and it is often desirable to know in the evening whether the morrow will be suitable. Here are rules for forecasting San Francisco weather in the summer. If the western horizon between sunset and dark be quite clear, there is a presumption that the next day will be warm and still. If, on the other hand, the horizon then shows banks of fog, or if the fog cover the city so that the western horizon cannot be seen, then expect cold and wind on the morrow. After a hot day the clearness of the western horizon in the evening is a promise of continuation of the heat. It sometimes happens that after a warm and clear forenoon a cold wind rises in the afternoon, and brings fog with it at the Beach, but that is the exception. The general rule is, that a brief period of hot weather ends in the evening with the appearance of fog. From June to September, inclusive, we expect no rain, since the records show that these four months bring together only one quarter of an inch of rainfall in the average year. The majority 52 SAN FRANCISCO. of Mays and Octobers are dry, showing nothing moister than a little drizzle of a few hours. In summer, as in winder, we expect no rain, unless it has been announced by a good wind blowing for twenty-four or more hours from the south. Cabs. — -The street-cars are so cheap, and run at intervals so brief, and are generally so clean and convenient, that relatively little use is made of cabs. On account of the hilly character of the site, Hansom cabs cannot be used to advantage. The one- horse vehicles in common use are known as cabs or coupes; those with two horses as hacks or carriages. Neither cab nor hack carries trunks on top; baggage, save that carried in the hand, is usually carried by transfer company. The San Francisco cab- men are like men of their profession in other cities, and some of them are extortionate, abusive, and on occasion violent. To avoid trouble with such scamps, old residents are generally care- ful to employ either those men whom they know personally, or those who are in the service and wear the badge of the Pacific Carriage Company, the United Carriage Company, or the City Cab and Carriage Company. These companies have fixed rates, and the men employed by them are supposed to adhere to fixed prices and mild maimers. The general charge of these companies for one or two passen- gers for a distance of one mile, or between any two points within the district bounded by Broadway, Gough, and Twelfth Streets and the bay is $1 for a cab, and $1.50 for a hack. The follow- ing is a table of their additional rates: — cn ■ - r , ... 1 hirst hour Shopping and. Calling- , 1 1 & ° ( Bach subsequent hour To and from Theatre, reserved To and from Balls, reserved.' Park Drive Cliff, via Point Lobos Cliff, via Park, return Park Almshouse, via Park Ocean House, via Park Black Point Presidio CAB. HA( 'k. $i 50 $2 00 l 00 1 50 00 4 00 . 3 00 4 00 4 00 5 00 5 00 6 00 6 00 8 00 . 5 00 6 00 . 6 00 8 00 , 2 50 3 00 3 00 4 00 At the livery-stables a horse and buggy can be obtained for $4 or $5 a day on week days, and a two-seated carriage with two horses for $8 or .$10. To those who can drive, and know the roads, such conveyance is much preferable to a cab or hack. Distances and Fares. — In the following table the distances and fares are given by the inland routes, which, though they may cross San Francisco Bay by water, are called railroad routes, and then by ocean routes through the Golden Gate. In the matter of fares, the cabin or first-class fare is given, and for a single un- limited ticket; but in many cases the traveler may do well to inquire for a limited, a round trip, or an excursion ticket. A star attached to a figure indicates* price for round trip. P. C., SAN FRANCISCO. 53 after the distance, means part of the way by private conveyance. A number in parentheses shows miles to be made by stage, and this is included in the other figure. In a few cases prices are omitted because they have been fluctuating of late. BY RAIL. Oakland Mole Oakland Sixteenth Street. . Oakland Broadway Station East Oakland Berkeley Alameda Mole Alameda, Park Street Los Gatos Santa Cruz Napa St. Helena Calistoga Marysville Redding Tiburon San Rafael Petaluma Fulton Guerneville Cloverdale Benicia Vallejo Martinez Sacramento Stockton Los Angeles San Diego Gilroy Springs (10) Glenwood Springs (4) Harbin Springs (21) Haywards ( 1 ) Highland Springs (28). Cazadero La Honda (18) Lake Tahoe (14) Litton Springs Paso Robles Springs Pearson’s Springs (46) Pescadero (32) . . Pilarcitos (5) Sausalito Skaggs’s Springs (8) Soda Bay (38) Berry vale (Sisson's) Tuscan Springs (7) MILES. ..4 .. . .6 . . ..74.. ..9 .. .12 .. ..3 .. . .9 . . .55 .SO .. . .46 . . .64 .. .73 .. ,.52 .. 170 .. ..6 .. 15 .. .36 .. .56 .72 .. .84 .. .33 .. .32 .. .35 .. .90 .. .92 .. .482 .. 666 .. .90 .. .70 .. .94 .. .22 112 .. .86 .. .47 .. 224 .. . .70 .. 221 .. 130 .. .53 .. .22 .. ..6 .. .83 .. .122 .. 312 .. .206 .. •ARES. 15 .0 15 .0 15 .0 15 .0 20 .0 15 .0 15 9 15 .3 50 .1 60 .2 30 70 .5 10 .9 05 .0 35 .1 00 2 00 9 85 .3 50 00 .1 00 .1 00 00 30 15 00 30 00 .4 50 .3 60 00 .0 65 .6 25 .4 75 9 50 20 00 2 75 9 75 3 50 .0 15 .4 50 .7 00 10 65 .8 75 54 SAN FEAN CISCO. BY BAIL. MILES. FAEES. Yosemite via Raymond (60). . . . . .260 *$50 00 Yosemite via Milton (85) . . .228 *30 00 San Mateo 21 Redwood . .. .29 1 00 San Jose 1 75 Monterey ...125 Alma ....58 2 35 Big Trees, Santa Cruz County. ....74 Big Trees, Calaveras County (47). 169 S 70 Blithedale (1) . . . .11 Bolinas (IS) .....36 1 85 Boulder Creek . . 81 3 50 Mount Diablo (20) 55 P. C Mount Hamilton (26) *7 50 Mount Tamalpais (12) ....27 P. C Napa Soda Springs (7) Pacific Congress Springs (5). . . ...60 2 50 Paraiso Springs (7) ...150 10 50 Camp Taylor . 1 35 Donner Lake (2) ...197 9 70 .Etna Springs (15) ....64 4 35 Felton Fort Ross (17) ....96 5 25 G-eysers via Cloverdale (15) . . . ....99 *8 50 Geysers via Calistoga (27) . . .100 *8 50 Ogden Salt Lake City ...870 42 00 Denver via Salt Lake City. . . . .1,604 78 00 Omaha .1,799 Chicago .2,250 New York .3,332 . Lathrop , ... 83 3 10 Kansas City .2,116 St. Louis .2,435 Yuma ...731 Tucson ...978 45 00 Benson .1,024 45 00 Guaymas , .1,375 El Paso .1,286 Mexico City .2,510 105 30 New Orleans .2,495 BY SEA. MILES. FAKE. Santa Cruz $2 50 Monterey ...83 3 00 Port Harford ...195 S 00 Santa Barbara ..281 10 00 San Buenaventura 12 00 San Pedro ..365 14 50 SAN FKANCISCO. 55 BY SEA. MILES. FARES San Diego $15 00 Mazatlan 70 00 Acapulco 90 00 Panama 125 00 Humboldt Bay 216 10 00 Yaquina Bay 454 12 00 Astoria 20 00 Portland 20 00 Seattle 824 20 00 Tacoma 850 20 00 Victoria 20 00 Vancouver 833 22 00 Sitka 1,7S4 70 00 Honolulu 2,100 Y okohama 4,525 250 00 Shanghai 6,000 305 00 Hongkong 6,100 Auckland 200 00 Sydney 7,200 200 00 Melbourne 7,740 210 00 MAP OF CHINATOWN IN RED ; JOSS HOUSES IN DIAGONAL LINES CAL! FOR N I A SACRAMENTO ST. JACKSON ( (5ft FA Cl Cl G STOCKTON ( 57 ) GOING NORTH FROM SAN FRANCISCO ( 58 ) ( 59 1 BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO ( 60 ) , I — ]W dolpr^^ l 1 BANCROFT’S MAP OF CENTRAL SAN FRANCISCO I IL^MUnJillLl U U LlIU U Li lli LTLTL J l_nUJU|U (J UIU LI LljUjU U li U UIU LI U U LI U LI UP LI I | pi\ □fcpD*cfflsoffiD=D|Dsn m3 m]p^DpDg[]si 5 i^ 5 np&ciDai]i] [771 ogopp L W Wrnnrn * £ * r -,S^ WEBSTER 1 ^ SZFsTKd? w S gZ || 3 '' v (t) ^ ^ T' I "T- O I - . *> | \A/ P RCTCD f/) — ij ^ rn T ^ ^ Q G G I ctUI m ■ 1 1 ^ ^in olfo □"□ E o s DlalDiD □ d u □® H osofQ □!□!□ Dprenlm^nTi ln r] W n 4) ~ BUCHANAN | J ^ ? >_°ST, H - rn , Ssd □ □□□ ,□ □ □ □ □ □ u»nt\ □ □ □ □□ □ □□ .□ □ □ □ □gUSD^® BUCHANAN □ □□□□□□ LAGUNA □ DO OCTAVIA □ □ □ □ □ □ NESS OOO POLK □ □□ — POTR Eftn r — 1 ‘ I 1 I 1 cd cu & — I I — ] O I I i — i r SI, i ^NEBRASKA 11 1 >— -I IvT^ont CD CD CD t ^nCCnlfClD.' ^■CDD Cj [~1 1^- . ™ode island 1 — 1 Cp — ■ ^■Qaq^ ^ ; 3 «SsVt.^ ■ clffcjiP — PENN. ST. — 1 CJ (O WA St .t^A N C?jN&ic.Tp^ '^CD C^> 7TENNps/r— ^ Ed CD Id *a _ d< E NTUCK s_s& gc Q D ic5T=: 3 SP □ n □ db. CD □ □ ■l-ar-k+n- □ D HYDE □ □ LEAVE D □ JONES trmjp □ □rfo □ □□□ □ tfun □!□]□ □ D^dtgD ,Or FFLLMORE J | , | □ □ Q □pCDp 3 n*CDlD|[BD WEBSTER m 33— 5 I 7? 2 ’ 1 1 Jr 1 l "^ 1 «--T >--•-■ r-,-L^,„r-.-np L G p □ □□-□ □□!□>□!□ cfo " " □ □□ij'dta 0 □ □ □ D S 0 □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □□□□□□ □ □ □ □ JONES NCffiOTffi □ □ \\ / ^ -TAVHrO-R □ □ □ □ NWORTH □ □ □ □ / -T'AYIrO-K &□□□□□ □ ' ' MASON •SOT □□□□□□□□ \ -POW-Ertt-- -POW&Lb 3m |7i g '□O03D5D □ □ 2 □ □ □ □ □ □ □ 0 □ □ □ □ □ □□ 0 □ □ □ 0 □ □□ D □ □ GOD □ □□□□□□ □□□□□□ AVENUE \ □□□□□□□□□□ □□□□□□□□□ g/ □ □□□□□ □ op/ □ □□□□□□ rf □ □ □ □ □ pd 1 -.□□□□gi3g- □□□□ □□ UpfiU □ □ □ HP □ J^Td □□□□□□ □ □□□'□ □ □ uf uu □ □ □ □□□□ STbcKTON □ 0 □ DUPONT D&fl -K-E-A-R^Y — □{a □ ■MONTGOM Ml □ -SANSOME JJM □ □ iRY 0 □ □ □ FRONT n-BP n CS D QQDQOCk ■S'Tr-rrff □ □ □ □□'□ ST. □ □g'DODGOP 3o □ go u nvm ^ □ n n ri*” Mu □□□□□□□? □ □□□□□□□ 7 y □□□□□□□ ^ Scale 2000 feet to 3 inch 2000 feet 1600 1000 600 10 1 Teleerraph Hill 2 Nob Hill 3 Rincon Hill 4 Portsmouth Square 5 Union Square 6 Chinatown 7 China Steamer Wharf 8 Ferry Slips 9 Oregon Steamer Wharf 10 Victoria Steamer Wharf 11 Mint X2 Palace Hotel 13 Baldwin Hotel and Theatre 1 jjjje 14 Occidental Hotel j 15 Lick House & Mas. Temple j 16 Grand Opera House 17 Bush Street Theatre 1 18 Alcazar 19 Orpheuin | 20 Tivoli j 21 Pioneer Hall ; 22 Odd Fellows’ Hall j 23 City Hall 24 Old City Hall ; 25 California Theatre j 26 The History Building : 27 Post Office THE BANCROFT COMPANY HISTORY BUILDING 721 MARKET STREET + SAN FRAN6ISG0 PIANO DEPARTMENT A. M. BENHAM, Manager Pacific Coast Agents for the following First-class Instruments PIANOS { HENRY F. MILLER & SONS The First Choice of the Great Pianists I BEHNING & SON Endorsed by Eminent Musicians of this and other Countries STULTZ k BAUER Beautiful in Tone and Action, and Durable KURTZMANN & GO. Elegant Cases, Medium Price, Fully Warranted STANDARD REED PIPE Guaranteed to Produce the Tone and Effect of Pipe Organs of double the price FARRAND & VOTEY Contain more Improvements than any other Reed ( Instrument WILGOX & WHITE Largest Capital, Largest Factory, Greatest Variety of Styles Our Prices are the lowest consistent with quality and durability; our terms the most liberal; our assortment the largest, and the established reputation of the house makes our guarantee an absolute protection to customers SAN JOSE BRANGH, 40 WEST SANTA GLARA ST. In Charge of MRS. L. A RODERICK UNION IRON WORKS Office: cor. ist ai?d /Hissioi? U/orl^s: potr * (I II II I HI I I 19 I I I I I I I I M I I I S I I I n 1 1 mi l l m i ■ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n n mu m 1 1 1 m 6 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 is e> WILL BE CALLED FOR AND DELIVERED BY PRINCIPAL OFFICE) : 648 /nWT street , l56 St. LAUNDRY Thirteenth Street, between Folsom and Howard San Francisco, Cal. All ordinary Mending, Sewing on of Buttons, etc., free of Charge. Orders may be left at Offices or Laundry, or a Postal card, will receive prompt attention. REnrCED PRICES Shirts, without collars 10c. each Nightshirts 10c. “ Undershirts 10c. “ Drawers 10c. “ Ves s and Coats 15c. “ Plain Chemise 10c. “ “ Night Dresses 15c. “ “ Skirts 15c. “ “ Dresses • 25c. “ Table Cloths [ordinarysize]— 10c. Pillow Slii's, Starched..50c. “ 5c. Pillow Slips, not Starched f Towels | At the Handkerchiefs ! rate of Hose | per doz. Collars L Cape Collars 35c. per doz. Cuffs 50c. per doz. or 5c. per pair Blankets 50c. per pair Children’s plain starched pieces $1 per doz. Children’s plain pieces, not starched 50c. per doz. or 5c. each SINGLE SMALL PIECES, 5c. “ These Prices apply only to plain pieces. Goods requiring extra time and labor will be charged accordingly. Open from 7 A. M. to 9 P. M. Saturdays, 10 P. M. /Hapufaeturii^ Department Bookbinding, Lithographing, and Engraving; New Type, New Machinery. The popu- lar place for prompt and Artistic Work -'o ■ — Books printed and Published for authors; Briefs, Pamphlets and Catalogues, Isabels and all kinds of Color Printing, Cards, Bill-heads, Circulars, and every description of Commer- cial Work, Blank forms for faw, Real Instate, County and Election purposes; Blank Books made to order for Merchants, Bankers, and County Officers; Blanks printed to order; Check Books, Bonds and Stock Certificates Office and Counting-house Stationery; Outfits for Banks and Corporations; Map Making and Mounting; Calendars made to order. Type-writing Stock and Furniture; Type-writing Machines, Type-writing Desk: and Tables; Type-writing Paper and Ink. lB^eroff (^orpp2\r^ HISTORY BUILDING 721 Market St., San Francisco gpir?tiragf#~ 1 M wMwMi, Wmmm. S l«i« ilpfil imis rtiiiai’Sl . . • • /: . , -'-• B