LOOM - FIXERS' 
 MANUAL 
 
DyiiE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 FRIENDS OF 
 DUKE UNIVERSITY 
 LIBRARY 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 ...... Ivey 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 with funding from 
 Duke University Libraries 
 
 https://archive.org/details/loomfixersmanual01bald 
 

 TEXTILE DESIGNER, 
 
 AND PU3LISHER OF TEXTILE WQRSS. 
 
T'HE 
 
 n 
 
 ill 
 
 M-FIXERS’ MANUAL, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 RULES AND INSTRUCTIONS 
 FOR SETTING UP AND OPERATING 
 
 the Crompton, and the Knowles looms; 
 
 THE PRODUCTION OF CLOTH ON CAM LOOMS ; SPREADING 
 THE WARP THREADS IN THE PROCESS OF WEAVING; 
 AND OTHER VALUABLE INFORMATION TO 
 LOOM-FIXERS, WEAVERS, AND ALL 
 OTHERS INTERESTED IN 
 WEAVING. 
 
 Compiled and Revised, by A. A. BALDWIN. 
 
 BRASHER FALLS, NEW YORK: 
 
 A. A. BALDWIN, PUBLISHER. 
 
Entered according- to act of Congress, in the year 18S3, by 
 A. A. BALDWIN, 
 
 in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
ERRATA. 
 
 Page io, 3d line from bottom, for ‘‘persistant" read persistent. 
 
 “ 15, 10th line from top. for “an wide” read an inch wide. 
 
 “ 19, for “91” read 19. 
 
 “ 21, nth line from bottom, for “threfore” read therefore. 
 
 “ 23, nth line from bottom, for “raises” read raise. 
 
 “ 24, 12th line from bottom, for “hight” read height. Same page, 
 
 last line, for “raise” read raised; for “tuched” read touched. 
 
 “ 56, 4th line from bottom, for “and" read and. 
 
 “ 61, 12th line from top. for “ink” read ing. 
 
 “ 71, 1st line, for “part” read parts. 
 
677.o2.g2. 
 
 ,15/glL 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The publisher of this work, having had numerous in- 
 quiries for back numbers of the Designer & Weaver, 
 published in 1881 — 2 while under his management, and 
 not being able to supply that demand, he has, after many 
 requests, decided to compile and revise into book form 
 most of the articles written under the nom de plume of 
 “X.,” and “Weaver ,' 5 which appeared in the paper dur- 
 ing that time. Being desirous of issuing such a work in a 
 more complete manner than these articles alone would 
 make, he has added such other reprints and original mat- 
 ter as he deemed would be of special interest to the craft. 
 
 In justice to all, the publisher would say that “X.” is 
 the nom de plume of Mr. A. X. Whipple, of Greenville, 
 R. I., and that “Weaver 55 is the nom de plume of Mr. E. 
 M. Sinclair, of East Rochester, X. H. 
 
 The chapters on Loom Fixing, in reference to the 
 Crompton Loom, by Mr. Whipple, have been somewhat 
 changed in their compiling and revising, by taking from 
 and adding to, so that they may not be recognized in 
 some instances, yet their general meaning remains the 
 same. These changes the publisher has deemed advisable 
 in order to make them more comprehensible. 
 
 The introductory chapter and those on the Knowles 
 Loom, also the last one in the book, are by Mr. Sinclair, 
 and, in stating that it. is to the above gentlemen the pub- 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 lisher owes his gratitude for the principal subject-matter 
 of this work, and also that it needs no further recommen- 
 dation as to its practicability, he feels as though it is hut 
 doing justice to those who merit it. 
 
 To further add to the value of the work, he has re- 
 printed from the Industrial Record of 1S74, the “Buies 
 for the Production of Cloth on Cam Looms,” by “E. P.” 
 Also from the Textile Manufacturer of 1876, the “Spread- 
 ing the Warp Threads in the Process of Weaving,” by 
 “A Practical Man.” These articles have also been 
 somewhat revised, hut their general substance remains 
 the same. 
 
 In placing this little work before the manufacturing 
 public, the publisher believes he, is supplying a long felt 
 want, and as to how far he has succeeded in this under- 
 taking, he leaves it for the craft to decide. 
 
 A. A. B. 
 
C 0 X T E N T S . 
 
 PART I. 
 
 THE CROMPTON LOOM. 
 
 Page 
 
 Chapter I. — Loom Fixing, its Introductory 9 
 
 “ II. — The Loom, its Setting, Belt, and Picking Motion.... 12 
 
 “ III. — The Box Motion and Shuttle Swells 17 
 
 “ IV. — (Swells continued). The Filling Chain and Harness 
 
 Motion 21 
 
 “ V. — Putting in the Warj). The Speed 27 
 
 “ VI. — Shuttles Flying Out, Filling Cutting, Miss-Picks, 
 
 Shuttles Catching, Shuttle Smashes 30 
 
 “ VII. — Weights used for Temples, Uneven Cloth and its 
 
 Cause 35 
 
 “ VIII. — Conclusion 37 
 
 PART II. 
 
 THE KNOWLES LOOM. 
 
 Chapter I. — Its Advent into the Manufacturing World — Its Advan- 
 tages Over other Looms — Its Mechanism — Sugges- 
 tions to Chain Builders 41 
 
 “ II. — Chain Building — Methods for Operating Boxes — 
 
 Chain Drafts — Hanging Harnesses 47 
 
 “ III. — Working of the Pinions— Reversing the Chains for 
 
 Picking Out — Setting the Chain Shaft Gear— -Practi- 
 cal Hints and General Rules 54 
 
 PART III. 
 
 CAM LOOM WEAVING & MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 Chapter 1 . — Rules for the Production of Cloth on Cam Looms. 63 
 “ II. — Spreading the Warp Threads in the Process of 
 
 Weaving 79 
 
 “ III. — Practical Hints on Weaving— The Management of a 
 
 Weaving Room— -Some of the Elements of Success 
 in Weaving— New Notions and Old Looms— What 
 Constitutes a “Good Fixer.” S7 
 
 Advertisements pages- 105 106 107 10S 1C9 no 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 LOOM FIXING. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 Loom fixing, like all other branches of work about a 
 mill, requires good intelligent men. The requisites ex- 
 tend farther than this, even. 
 
 It requires men of steady nerves, keen perception, per- 
 severance, and above all, men of more patience than 
 ordinary beings possess. 
 
 Looms are constructed on about the same principle as 
 all other machines ; having its driving and driven pulleys, 
 its gears, shafts, belts, etc., and yet, unlike all other ma- 
 chines in the employ of manufacturing cloth, they have 
 an independent part. The movement of the shuttle is 
 conditional. 
 
 Upon the exactness and nicety of arrangement of nearly 
 all the other parts depends this movement, hence the 
 fixing. 
 
 No inventive genius has yet been able to bring forth a 
 positive movement for the shuttle, which has proved a 
 
10 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 success. It remains yet to be accomplished, and will be. 
 But so long as shuttles are thrown back and forth with 
 picker sticks and pickers, so long will the services of 
 skilled men be required to keep them in motion. 
 
 The first and great study which every loom-fixer ought 
 to devote himself to, is that of “cause and effect." Loom 
 fixing does not consist of continually changing and re- 
 arranging the parts of a loom. The best loom-fixers in 
 the country to-day are those who do the least work. If 
 a loom has been running for some length of time all right 
 and then begins going badly, the most sensible conclusion 
 to arrive at is that some one thing is wrong, and not that 
 the whole loom is out of order. 
 
 There is always a cause for every wrong about a loom, 
 and to put that right is never much of a task, but to get 
 some other part out of place in trying to do so only 
 makes matters worse. 
 
 There are several degrees in loom fixing. The man 
 who has plodded along for years on flannel work, where 
 but one shuttle and four harnesses are required, knows 
 nothing of the intricacies of fixing on fancy work. The 
 difference is as wide, as that which exists between the 
 simple sums in a child's arithmetic and the brain-racking 
 problems of Euclid. 
 
 The knowledge and practical ability which every first- 
 class fancy loom-fixer possesses, has been acquired only 
 by careful study and persistant labor. That experience 
 which is not supplimented with brain force will profit 
 but little. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXER'S MANUAL. 
 
 n 
 
 Many of our young- men who are running- looms, or 
 tilling- some subordinate position, and cherishing the hope 
 that sometime they may occupy the position of “loom- 
 tixer,'' must remember that there are many hard lessons 
 to learn. A thorough and practical knowledge of looms 
 is not to be acquired in a month or year; but many years 
 of patient toil and persistent effort will be required to at- 
 tain to that place where one can presume to be master. 
 As it is often said, there is no code of rules which can be 
 laid down for fixers whereby in every case they can go 
 to a loom and immediately discover the cause of trouble, 
 and apply the remedy, and then go back to the bench. 
 
 There can, however, be many suggestions by those who 
 have had years of experience which will wonderfully aid 
 and assist the young men just starting. 
 
 The Crompton, and Knowles looms for fancy weaving 
 which are herein spoken of, contain nearly all the modern 
 improvements, and as the principles of tixing are the 
 same, on whatever looms it may be, or whatever im- 
 provements they may have, the suggestions herein given 
 will, no doubt, be appreciated by fixers on all kinds of 
 looms. 
 
12 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 CHAPTEE H. 
 
 THE CROMPTON LOOM— 
 
 ITS SETTING BELT, AND PICKING MOTION. 
 
 Our first instructions will be upon the proper attention 
 that a loom should have when setting it. 
 
 It is evident that when setting, and starting, a new 
 loom it should have a good foundation, and that when 
 placed in its proper position should be level. 
 
 In levelling, some fixers place the spirit-level upon the 
 top of the frame, while others place it on the main shaft, 
 — the picking shaft we have reference too — which is the 
 proper place for levelling a loom. If the loom is very 
 much out of level, be careful about raising one side too 
 high or giving it sudden jerks, as it will spring other 
 parts out of place. After you have it leveled up in good 
 shape, put the screws into the foot of the frame and make 
 firm to the floor. Now set and level the lathe, as fol- 
 lows : Draw the lathe up and place the spirit-level upon 
 it, then loosen the bolts at the bottom of the lathe 
 swords; raise or lower each end of the lathe as needed. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 13 
 
 Another way — and the most proper — is to place a piece 
 of board on the breast beam ; measure from that down to 
 the top of the lathe, or shuttle race, which should be 
 of an inch. Be particular about getting it level, then 
 tighten up the bolts and the lathe is ready for use. 
 
 Next, try the small shaft at the belt end — called the 
 driving shaft — and see if it binds; it may not be level, if 
 not, make it so. Now try the working parts to see if 
 they work, as they should, with freedom and ease, if so, 
 the next in order is the 
 
 BELT. 
 
 Loom-fixers, as a general thing, do not give proper 
 care to their belts ; the way to put them on, and the run- 
 ning of them afterwords. First, examine the laps to see 
 which way they lay on the inside of the belt — that is, the 
 smooth side — and be sure to put it on so that when run- 
 ning they will run from, and not against, the pulley. If 
 against it, it would cause them to start up and would 
 soon need mending. Remember to put the belt on with 
 the smooth side in, as the closer it hugs the pulley the 
 more friction there will be. 
 
 The question of oiling belts, is one greatly neglected in 
 our mills at the present day ; they should be oiled at least 
 once a month, and done while running, as the oil will 
 penetrate much better and the result will prove more 
 satisfactory. 
 
 After putting on the belt, disconnect the head motion 
 and start up the loom ; let it run a while to limber up ; 
 watch the boxes to see that they do not heat; if so, raise 
 
14 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 the caps and put thin pieces of pasteboard under them. 
 
 After the loom gets well limbered up, sufficient not 
 to bind and become heavy in running, your attention 
 is then called to the 
 
 PICKING MOTION. 
 
 It is essential that this motion should have considerable 
 attention given it. First, set the standard that holds the 
 front end of the shoe shaft so that it has Jg °f :,n inch 
 play, and the top of the standard is even with the loom 
 frame. To set the shoes and picking rollers, take a piece 
 of wood, if setting a narrow loom, 7 inches long by % of 
 an inch square ; if a broad loom, 1 % inches long. Into 
 one side of this put through a screw 4}4 inches from one 
 end, letting it stick through % of an inch ; this file to a 
 point. This point, place in the centre of the picking rol- 
 ler stud, and set it 4 % inches from the shaft, and do so 
 with all the rest. Then take your 7 or inch stick and 
 place it against the socket in which the back end of the 
 shoe shaft plays, and laying it on the shaft, move the 
 shoe up to it and fasten it there. The picking rollers and 
 shoes are now as true as measurement will make them. — 
 In starting a new broad loom it will work better to have 
 the shoes set 1 % inches instead of 7)o. 
 
 'There is an upright shaft on the shoe shaft which is the 
 picking arm. On the broad loom this is solid, but on the 
 narrow loom it has an extension and can be made longer 
 or shorter. As a general rule, run them down short and 
 set far enough back so that there will be no danger of 
 the lathe swords breaking them. Now put on the picker 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 15 
 
 stick and connect it to the picking arm by means of 
 tlie connector, — sometimes called the sweep stick, — 
 which should be 17 inches from centre to centre of holes, 
 and % °f a n inch thick at the end through which the. 
 picking arm stud passes, and tapering to 1' 2 of an inch 
 at the other end. A piece of strong leather 2 inches wide 
 and 8 inches long or over, passes around the picker stick 
 and is bolted to this end of the connecting stick, which 
 is called the tug strap, and to hold this strap in its place 
 make a loop strap X of an wide by 6 inches long to pass 
 around the tug strap ; through the ends of this loop punch 
 holes and fasten to the back of the picker stick by means 
 of a small screw. To start with, place the tug strap up 
 about 9 inches from the stud on which the picker stick 
 works. Below this stud there is another strap that con- 
 nects the picker stick to a coil spring under the loom, 
 which pulls the stick back after making a pick. Be care- 
 ful about having this strap too tight, as it will cause the 
 loom to pick heavy ; have it just tight enough to pull the 
 stick back on time, that is, before the shuttle enters 
 the box. 
 
 To prevent the picker stick from splitting, take a 2 inch 
 or a 2)4 inch bolt, of an inch in diameter; bore a hole 
 through the stick 1 inch above the hole for the stud, and 
 drive the bolt in snug; screw the nut up tight so that it 
 will sink into the wood, using no washer. 
 
 After the picking rollers, shoes, and shoe shafts, pick- 
 ing arms, connectors, picker sticks, and tug straps, have 
 all been properly adjusted, partly spring the loom, stop- 
 
16 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 ping with the lathe arms standing up perpendicular; this 
 is the starting point for these motions to commence their 
 work. Be particular to have both picker sticks move at 
 the same time, if not, fix them so they will by varying 
 the rollers as judgment admits; but see if you use all the 
 shoe, which you should to get an easy motion, and not 
 have the loom pound or jump. The cams which hold the 
 picking rollers may not be right. The proper way is to 
 use but one-half of the roller when the loom commences 
 to pick, and as the roller passes over, and the shoe goes 
 down, then all of the roller is brought into service at the 
 point of the shoe where the force lays. In giving these 
 few points close attention, many obstacles will be 
 overcome. 
 
 After you have all the above fixings in their proper 
 places, spring on the sticks, by holding them back at the 
 top end, and watch the sticks the distance they travel ; 
 they should come within 1 inch of the hunters; if not, 
 extend the picking rollers more from the main shaft, this 
 gives a larger travel ;— sometimes shorten the connecting 
 stick — but judgment must be used in all cases even when 
 the theory is understood. 
 
 It is necessary now that you should have a picker to do 
 its part of the labor, and this should be examined to see 
 if it is straight, and not all warped out of shape. It 
 should work free upon the spindle to avoid catching and 
 causing trouble. 
 
 For packing, place a roll of cloth in back of the picker 
 just far enough to make the ball of the picker even with 
 
THE LOOM -FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 17 
 
 the box guide as vou look down into the box. Now put 
 on the picker strap, which should be soft and pliable, 
 and run the loom a while to watch its operation, and by 
 so doing if you have any mechanical ingenuity, you will 
 see improvements to make if any is needed. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE BOX MOTION AND SHUTTLE SWELLS. 
 
 As we now have the main running part of the loom all 
 ready for operation, your attention is called to the 
 BOX MOTION. 
 
 Here it is essential that everything should be done well 
 and not slighted, but great pains taken, and the result 
 will prove much more satisfactory; and when once prop- 
 erly placed in a right position, and well tightened up, it 
 will cause but little trouble for sometime. 
 
 In setting the box motion, we will use a three-box tap- 
 pet section to start with; this 3'ou will notice has upon 
 one side, a place cut in to just lit the tappet wheel. In 
 putting the tappet on, have it fit in good shape, if not, as 
 the tappet moves around it will be thrown out of a true 
 circle, which would vary the box either too high or too 
 low : but this will be more plainly seen further on. 
 
 Now place the roller which rests under the tappet about 
 
IS 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 the middle of the slot in the side lever; we have now 
 "one as far as we can with this, as it is necessary that we 
 should have something to operate the motion. Well, you 
 will find a cam plate attached to the main shaft, and up- 
 on this plate is fastened cam blocks which are subject to 
 changes ; and to set these, bring up the lathe to the centre. 
 — What we mean by this, is when the arms are in an 
 upright position, and the loom starts to pick. 
 
 The picking of the loom, and the work of the cam plate, 
 are motions which are very sensitive to each other; one 
 does its work after the other has prepared its portion. 
 When the loom starts to pick, the cam has, of course, 
 pushed the tappet in its proper place. But suppose it 
 has not? Then examine what has been done, and you 
 find the cam has been moved to its proper place, and yet 
 the tappet is not pushed far enough. Well, what now ? 
 You will notice there are four ratchet wheels subject to 
 be moved at will, and as the cam has pushed the forks out 
 as far as it could, loosen up the bolts that hold these 
 wheels together, and set the two with points running the 
 same way up to the forks. Should you wish to reverse 
 the motion, raise the forks under the ratchets and set the 
 ones up that point in the opposite direction. 
 
 We will here quote a few remarks on the reverse mo- 
 tion, by “Weaver.” 
 
 “Doubtless the greatest difficulty met with by new 
 beginners, is in starting boxes on reverse motion. Many 
 experienced loom-fixers, also, meet with trouble here 
 which are not easily overcome. The most essential thing 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 91 
 
 about this is to have the box chain move at just the right 
 time. Some might differ with me on this, and bring 
 strong arguments to show there were other tilings of 
 more importance. But if the chain moves at the time 
 when it should, not much difficulty will be experienced 
 in starting boxes on reverse motion. The boxes should 
 work very easily, and should commence to change just 
 as the protector strikes. The. forks should be adjusted 
 both the same, and care taken not to have them too high. 
 There should be no more friction on the tappet shaft, than 
 enough to steady the boxes. If the boxes are working- 
 independent of each other, the friction on each should be 
 the same. Wires should be used to connect the forks 
 with the levers above the chain, and after the forks have 
 been properly adjusted, the little nuts above and beneath 
 the levers should be securely fastened. Check-nuts are 
 found to be of great advantages. As to having the boxes 
 all come to a level with the race as they rise and fall, no 
 specific directions can be given. Some old fixer has said 
 this is a “hair-splitting job,” and we agree with him. 
 
 “After adjusting the tappet, the boxes can be brought 
 to a level with the race by raising or lowering the lever 
 which connects the boxes with the tappet, by means of 
 the stud on which the lever moves. But this, of course, 
 is a matter of experiment as to how far the stud should 
 be moved.” 
 
 Turning to our previous remarks : Tighten up the 
 
 bolts and examine what has been done, then push the 
 lathe over and see if the tappet moves the same each time 
 
20 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 just far enough for the rollers to stop in the places made 
 for them in the tappet. After having completed this, 
 notice if the boxes are even with the race ; if not, loosen 
 the set screw at the bottom of the lifter rod ; raise or 
 lower it as the boxes require. But we find that the bot- 
 tom box does not come up high enough, after having set 
 all right for the middle one, so what must be done? You 
 will notice that the side lever works upon a stud below 
 the cam plate, which can be raised or lowered as re- 
 quired. But we find that the box does not come up high 
 enough yet, and the top one does not go down low 
 enough ! Then move the stud down a little ; this drops 
 the top box. How set for the middle one, being careful 
 not to move the stud but a trifle at a time until you get 
 it right, after which you will need the 
 SHUTTLE SWELLS ; 
 
 but will have no occasion to do anything with them only 
 to bend suitable for the shuttles. Before taking out the 
 swells, weigh up a set of shuttles — we would not recom- 
 mend as to weight, any heavier than 14 ozs. — and he very 
 particular about weighing them and also as to their width. 
 Place one of the shuttles into the box and see if it fits the 
 swell, if not, take out the swell, get a square piece of 
 lead 5X1}^ inches to bend it- upon for fitting to the shut- 
 tle, being careful not to have it bind too much at the 
 back, as it will cause the loom to pick too hard. Also be 
 careful about bending the front end too blunt. A slop- 
 ing bend when the shuttle strikes it, will have a tendency 
 to go into the box straighter, and often prevent the cut- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL, 
 
 21 
 
 ting of the filling. The portion of the swell which strikes 
 the protector finger, should not be more than one inch 
 from the box when the shuttle is in. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 (SWELLS CONTINUED.) 
 
 TIIE FILLING CHAIN AND HARNESS MOTIONS. 
 
 That it requires patience and good judgment in bend- 
 ing the swells — as they are so apt to break — will be ad- 
 mitted, and if once bent too much, in trying to bend them 
 back again you will be apt to make a break, thus render- 
 ing them useless, except as scrap iron ; threfore, a few 
 more suggestions will not be out of place. 
 
 In noticing a Crompton swell, you will plainly see 
 what part of it is required to hold the shuttle; this we 
 will divide, into three equal parts, and each part should 
 just touch the shuttle, but do not have quite so much 
 friction on the end towards the box guide; if so, it 
 will cause a hard pick, as the friction from the swell 
 and also from the wire that holds the same in the box, 
 calls for considerable attention in this respect. 
 
 The bending of the swell where the shuttle first strikes 
 
22 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 it, in entering the box, should be sloping, but not too 
 blunt, if so, it will have a tendency to decrease the speed 
 and also the power of the shuttle and many times causes 
 the cutting of the filling, which will be explained 
 further on. 
 
 After you have adjusted the swells and are satisfied all 
 has been done that is required, and that the shuttles fit 
 just right, see if you can put one into each box without 
 taking hold of the swell, if not, loosen the spring a little, 
 and try again until you can ; and when so, you have the 
 swells in a good condition, and will not require so much 
 power to drive the shuttle across or at least to hold it 
 when once gone into the box. 
 
 As to shuttles, we will not speak of any particular 
 make, being prejudiced against none, but would suggest 
 that they be about 17 inches in length by 1? 4 in width. 
 
 A long shuttle is preferable to a short one, as it can be 
 held in the box better and with less friction and wearing. 
 
 Some shuttles are bulging at the ends, although the 
 points are set in the centre, but would suggest those with 
 only a little of this so called improvement, as it is found 
 they are not so apt to go straight, especially if the picker 
 is worn, or the reed does not come up perfectly straight 
 with the box. Then again; shuttles should be weighted 
 alike at both ends; some are the heaviest at the spindle 
 end, but see no just reason why they are made so. 
 
 We will now call your attention, for a while, to the 
 FILLING CHAIN MOTION, 
 
 which gives us the ways that the filling is woven in. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 23 
 
 First, build a chain all straight work, that is, with no 
 rollers upon it, and be particular to have the links which 
 connects the chain, to run from the chain cylinder, then 
 they will not ride it. Now spring up the lathe and when 
 the loom commences to pick, the cam block has, of 
 course, pushed out the forks, and the tappet has moved 
 one box. You will observe that the tilling chain and 
 forks are very sensitive to each other, and also that the 
 moving of one will interfere with the other. When the 
 forks are out as far as required, and ready to go back, 
 that is the starting point for the filling chain to com- 
 mence to draw another bar, and as soon as the folks get 
 back, the filling chain should have just got through its 
 work, which shows that they should work on time with 
 each other, if not, the pattern will be apt to change. 
 
 There are small straps, or wires, that connect the forks 
 with the little levers above the filling chain cylinder, and 
 in setting these levers on the chain, spring over the lathe 
 a few times, after which, notice if the levers just raises 
 the forks enough to clear the ratchets. Now put on a 
 warp chain roller, this will raise the fork sufficient to re- 
 verse the ratchet. With these rules and suggestions, we 
 see no reason why the reader cannot set this motion so 
 far as directions can be given. 
 
 We will now call your attention to the setting of the 
 HARNESS MOTION. 
 
 The rules for this motion will be somewhat varied ac- 
 cording to the goods being made; but a starting point, 
 of course, will be necessary, and good judgment required 
 
24 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 afterwards. First, bring the lathe up to the breast beam, 
 place a rule up to the reed, have the distance from the 
 reed to the breast beam 534 inches; at this point the jacks 
 should be closed up, and ready for another opening. 
 Now see if the eveners on the face and back of the jacks 
 just come together, but not so close as to bind, if so, move 
 them back, or at least ease up on the arm that connects 
 the head motion with the cam on the small shaft below, 
 then bring the jacks together and tighten up the stud. — 
 We wish to state here that, we have reference to the up- 
 right lever finger-jack loom. 
 
 We should not — if a small number of harnesses are to 
 be used, — extend out the whole of the motion upon the 
 plate that works the head motion, as the more harnesses 
 used the larger the shed will need to be; this you will 
 easily see into. Now notice each linger of the jacks, and 
 see if they are all right so as not to catch each other, and 
 all just of a hight; if not, they will biud against the 
 eveners. 
 
 Each finger has attached to it a small casting that rests 
 upon the chain, which is movable from one side to the 
 other, and by building the warp chain with all rollers 
 you will find which fingers bind and which do not: in 
 this you can display a little of mechanical ingenuity and 
 patience in adjusting them, either by bending a little 
 higher or lower as required. You will probably have to 
 file some of them a little. The cylinder can be moved, 
 but not usually done, only when the head motion has be- 
 come badly worn is it raise, — if ever tuclied. — when it 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 may be done to raise the lingers. Under the fingers is 
 a rest, which is for stopping them from bounding as 
 they drop, and it is a good thing, especially in fast speed. 
 
 In building the warp chain, follow the same directions 
 as given for the filling chain, so as to have it run with 
 and not ride the cylinder. In setting the motion that 
 moves the chain and cylinder, have the jacks just close 
 when the warp chain has been pulled to another bar, but 
 do not have it too quick, as it might better be a little 
 slow, which will often times stop the jumping of the 
 fingers on the back side of the jacks. 
 
 Now put on the jack wires, and in doing so you will 
 notice the small notches in each jack at the top, and also 
 at the bottom of them. Commence at the front jack and 
 place the first four wires about level with the rollers that 
 the harness straps work upon. The next four wires ele- 
 vate a notch, and so on with the rest of them. By plac- 
 ing the wires in this manner, when the shed is open, the 
 back harnesses will be about even with the front ones. 
 This gives a clear and open shed. 
 
 When putting the wires on, be careful and have them 
 all straight, and bend the hooks so as to not catch each 
 other. The bottom wires run down on the jacks, instead 
 of up: commencing at the front jack and working to tin* 
 back ones. — Some fixers may think this a small thing to 
 write about, but let them break a few jacks, harnesses 
 and straps by the wires catching, then they will think 
 different of it. — Care and attention is very essential in 
 
 3 
 
26 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 the small things about a loom, as well as the larger ones. 
 
 After getting the wires all on in good shape, put on the 
 straps that connect them with the harnesses, and have 
 them as even as possible. When you have a few straps 
 on, set in a harness and make the heddle-eyes even with 
 the back roll and breast beam ; even up both ends of the 
 harness the same, then put on the remaining straps, even 
 with the first ones. The bottom straps can be better reg- 
 ulated after the warp is put in. 
 
 You will notice that the back roll bearings have notches 
 in them for setting the roll in different places, and in 
 using a small number of harnesses, say from six to 
 twelve, put the roil in the first notches the nearest to the 
 harnesses ; and for a larger number, move the roll farther 
 back, this gives the back harnesses a better chance to 
 shed and leave the strain on the roll. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 27 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 PUTTING IN THE WARP. — THE SPEED. 
 
 Having the loom in proper shape, we will proceed hy 
 PUTTING IN THE WARP. 
 
 For this purpose, we will choose one with twenty-four 
 harnesses. First, tie around the warp beam heads a nar- 
 row strip of woolen cloth, then set the warp into the 
 loom, and hang the harnesses as level as possible; after 
 which hook them at the bottom, but not so tight as to 
 break the straps, but just tight enough to keep them from 
 coining off the rollers. 
 
 Before commencing to tie in the warp, put on the fric- 
 tion bands and weights: then tie-in the warp by means 
 of an iron rod or apron fastened to the cloth roller, and 
 pull the warp through far enough to start it up. 
 
 Now put the reed in the lathe, and have the centre of 
 it even with the centre of the harnesses, so that the yarn 
 will draw through from the warp straight; then put on 
 the reed binder aud fasten it. 
 
 The loom is now ready to start up, so weave in a head- 
 ing, for which use a bobbin of white yarn, as it will 
 show wrong threads to a better advantage. Now put in 
 
28 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 the filling and spring the lathe over a few times to see if 
 the harnesses are all right, and if anything catches, if 
 all is right, start up the loom and weave from 4 to 6 
 inches for a heading, then push the lathe back and drop 
 the harnesses : now raise one at a time to see if any 
 wrong draws are in the warp, if so, fix them in each har- 
 ness before raising another. — Don't fail to do this with 
 every warp you put in. — After you have the wrong draws 
 fixed, weave in a few more picks to see if you have them 
 right, then spring the lathe over and leave it back : take 
 notice at the same time and see if the yarn is raised from 
 the race plate, if so, the shedding of the loom is too 
 quick, which would have a tendency to raise or throw 
 out the shuttle. Also notice whether the shed is large 
 enough, if not, make it so, but use good judgment and 
 run it as small as you can, so as to not strain the yarn. 
 
 The draft for the weave and filling chain, the boss 
 weaver will give you, so that you can build and attach 
 them to the loom ; but, before commencing to weave this 
 twenty-four harness warp, there is one essential thing 
 for us to consider, and that is the 
 SPEED. 
 
 It is a well known fact, that good steady speed, and at 
 a certain rate, is one great point in loom fixing; therefore, 
 we will dwell for a few moments upon the required speed 
 of the loom to which our attention is called. 
 
 Tt is evident that the smaller a machine is, the greater 
 the speed may be, but a large machine like a loom with 
 twenty-four harnesses, stopping and starting at short in- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXER’S MANUAL. 
 
 29 
 
 tervals requires slow speed, and, now the question is: at 
 what speed? We would not recommend over SO picks 
 per minute. — Some, run them as low as 75 picks; al- 
 though with a small number of harnesses, the loom may 
 be run at So picks to a good advantage, but in no case 
 would we recommend any higher speed, for a broad 
 loom.— It is the good steady speed of the loom that gives 
 us the most cloth, besides it will be much more even. 
 
 Having decided upon the speed; the warp and tilling 
 chains on ; the tilling in the right boxes, and every thing 
 in readiness ; weave in a few picks to see if the pattern 
 is running right, if so, then call the boss weaver's atten- 
 tion to the loom for his examination, and to regulate the 
 picks. The loom now running, keep watch for a while 
 and see that the pattern does not change ; the warp beam 
 gives offregularly ; the take-up motion is working even; 
 the. protector does not knock off; the picker don’t catch, 
 and, that there is power enough to drive the shuttle 
 across on time. Watch all these things close, as no one 
 else will for you. A little attention at this time, may 
 save you many hours of hard labor, and perhaps many 
 broken castings. 
 
 We will now leave the loom and warp that we have 
 said so much about, and devote our further remarks to 
 some of the many difficulties which are connected with 
 loom fixing. 
 
30 
 
 THE LOOM -FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SHUTTLES FLYING OUT — FILLING CUTTING— MISS-PICKS — 
 SHUTTLES CATCHING SHUTTLE SMASHES. 
 
 It is quite evident that the small things about a loom 
 often prove the most perplexing, and at times tend to dis- 
 arrange many others; for, in trying to remedy one thing 
 beginners are apt to move parts of the loom that, in real- 
 ity, have nothing to do with the object sought after; and 
 perhaps lose hours of hard labor, besides keeping the 
 loom stopped. All will agree with us when we say, that 
 for a person to become efficient, and master, over any 
 trade or profession, he must first learn to control his 
 temper, and by so doing, the way is made much clearer 
 for him. 
 
 Turning our attention again to the loom which we re- 
 cently left, it would be impossible for anyone to say what 
 would be the first trouble to contend with; however, we 
 will suppose that it is the 
 
 SHUTTLES FLYING OUT. 
 
 First, examine the condition of the boxes and see if 
 they are level with the race plate ; the first box appearing 
 all right, spring the lathe over and notice the next box 
 in turn, and continue in this manner for one revolution 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 31 
 
 of the tappet section. If one box comes right and the 
 next one wrong, the tappet is not properly adjusted to 
 the tappet wheel; therefore, move the tappet until the 
 boxes come even. Now notice whether one end of the 
 boxes are higher than the other, and if so, which end: it 
 certainly should not be the front end. as that would tend 
 to raise the shuttle from its proper course, thereby caus- 
 ing it to fly out. 
 
 Hut, supposing that the boxes are all right, and yet the 
 shuttle flies out? Well, there is another cause for this, 
 which may be the picking of the loom. By springing up 
 the lathe we notice that the loom picks too quick, and 
 before the shed opens sufficient to receive the shuttle: 
 therefore, set the lathe back one tooth of the cog wheel 
 at the gear end, then start up the loom and out goes the 
 shuttle again — but keep your temper. Now look at the 
 picker, it may be warped or worn out of shape so that 
 the ball does not strike the tip of the shuttle, as it should, 
 in the centre. Also notice if the picker stick is splintered 
 or badly worn where it strikes the picker, if so, it may 
 catch on to the picker when it starts to move ; this would 
 also cause the shuttle to fly out. Then again, the loom 
 making miss-picks by the harnesses rising out of place ; 
 — often caused by the guides at each side of the harness 
 jacks not being set up close enough, and in consequence, 
 the levers or fingers of the jacks do not travel squarely 
 over the chain rollers; — the shed too quick; back har- 
 nesses not coming up level with the front ones ; threads 
 breaking and tangling with others ; bad dents in the reed 
 
32 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 or the speed too quick; all, these difficulties are among 
 the many troubles which a loom-fixer has to contend with 
 before he is sure that the flying out of the shuttle is 
 stopped. 
 
 We will now suppose that we are being troubled 
 with the 
 
 FILLING CUTTING. 
 
 All loom-fixers are aware that this is rather a trouble- 
 some thing at times. First, examine the shuttle swells, 
 they may be rough or bent too much in front; the picker 
 rivet loose; the side of the boxes rough; the groove in 
 tile shuttle too small ; the shuttle going from one box to 
 the other in a zig-zag manner, or the boxes too high or 
 too low; all these difficulties will cause the cutting of 
 the filling. But with everything smooth, and the shuttle 
 running straight, very little difficulty will be met with 
 in this line. 
 
 MISS-PICKS, 
 
 are also, at times, rather a hard thing to stop. But sup- 
 posing that we were having trouble with such : First, 
 
 draw up the lathe and close the jacks together, then ex- 
 amine the fingers of the jacks and see if the rivets are 
 worn so as to give any play, if so, put new ones in then- 
 place; also, see that the fingers do not slip off the 
 evener; then watch the moving of the chain, and the 
 closing of the jacks — which should be together. Also, 
 notice how the rollers on the chain strike the jacks, and 
 also if the speed is too quick, which would cause the 
 fingers to jump when falling. Again, notice each finger 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 33 
 
 and see if it comes up high enough against the evener, if 
 not, bend it so that it will ; also see if the chain rides the 
 cylinder and that the links are all right; if not, make 
 them so. Watch all of the above difficulties spoken of, 
 and before changing any part of the loom, pause and 
 think what the result will he, and by giving the second 
 thought to every thing that you do, you may rest assured 
 that you will soon become master over the loom. 
 
 Again, we will suppose that the loom has become 
 troublesome by the 
 
 SHUTTLES CATCHING. 
 
 This trouble we must look after, and find the cause of it. 
 
 After giving the loom a few picks, we notice that the 
 power is weak, and, an examination of the picking motion 
 is necessary before we are satisfied that no blame can 
 rest here. The shoe is all right and its shaft is not bent; 
 the sweep is sufficient and thus far, apparently, all seems 
 right. Well, let us look farther : the picker strap may 
 be too long, which would give the picker a chance to 
 catch as the boxes rise or fall, but this we find satis- 
 factory. The picker packing may be too small so that 
 the shuttle will catch in under the back guide, or the 
 picker ma}' be bent; the boxes may rise or fall too 
 quick or too late ; the boxes may not be level with the 
 race plate, and the harnesses may be too high or too low. 
 From these illustrations you will see that all the above 
 difficulties may be classed among the causes of shuttles 
 catching, and if proper attention be given these points 
 not much trouble will be met with, here. 
 
34 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 The next difficulty to which we call your attention, is 
 SHUTTLE SMASHES. 
 
 There is no doubt but what many a loom-fixer has been 
 severely censured for this particular thing. 
 
 The first move to make in this case is to examine the 
 boxes, and if they are found to be working all right, the 
 picker, picker stick or strap becomes broken, the protec- 
 tor should stop the loom before the shuttle makes a 
 smash or “breakout” in the warp. Why should it? Is 
 the query, and the answer is as follows : When the lathe 
 is brought up and the shuttle is out of the box, and the 
 protector point up against the bunter, you will notice 
 that the protector finger point is in about the middle of 
 the swell which holds the shuttle, and if the boxes move 
 too quick — especially their changing before the shuttle 
 arrives across on time — it will throw the finger out, and 
 the result is a smash. Also, examine the finger point and 
 see if it is worn off flat; it should be provided so as to 
 drop between the shuttle swells, in case the shuttle does 
 not arrive in the box on time; also have spring enough 
 on the protector to make it work quick. 
 
 Too quick speed will, at times, bring the shuttles to- 
 gether and make a smash when no cause can be seen, but 
 smashes are more apt to occur when the yarn lacks prop- 
 er elasticity. The protector point should be kept suffi- 
 ciently pointed, so as not to slip off when it strikes the 
 bunter; all these difficulties will cause shuttle smashes, 
 but if properly looked after, little trouble need be met 
 with in this direction. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 35 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 WEIGHTS USED FOR TEMPLES — UNEVEN CLOTH 
 AND ITS CAUSE. 
 
 It is not an uncommon thing — and we doubt if it ever 
 will be — to have 
 
 WEIGHTS USED FOR TEMPLES. 
 
 We have seen weights of 20 pounds hung upon each 
 side of the cloth, to hold the selvage out to its place, and 
 at the same time, the weaver was continually mending 
 up threads, when a weight of one-third the amount would 
 have answered the purpose as well, for all that is required 
 is to keep the cloth out even with the yarn in the reed ; 
 therefore, you should give this matter proper attention 
 and see that no more weight is used than is necessary. 
 UNEVEN CLOTH AND ITS CAUSE. 
 
 It is evident that the yarn must come in good shape 
 from one room to another in order to give good results, 
 and, as a general thing, if the stock is handled with care 
 in the card room and spinning room, and properly after 
 leaving these places, the weave room will be obliged to 
 give good even cloth, or the trouble would soon be found 
 out and the room that caused it. 
 
THK LOOM -FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 ;!6 
 
 But, suppose that it was caused in the weave room? 
 Then, to guard against such in the future, give close at- 
 tention to the dressing of the warp, and observe if each 
 section is run on the warp-reel with equal tension, and 
 also beamed off hard and even; as slack beaming will 
 cause considerable annoyance. 
 
 In getting a beam for beaming off the warp, examine 
 the heads and see if they are good and tight, if not, make 
 them so, then put around them a clean piece of cloth, and 
 when you put in the warp see that the friction bands do 
 not bind ; and also, when starting up the warp, see that 
 the take-up motion does its work just as fast as the lathe 
 beats the filling into the cloth. 
 
 When looms run too fast, uneven cloth will be more 
 apt to make its appearance. 
 
 Look out about having too much weight upon the take- 
 up motion, especial^ if making goods with few picks. 
 
 Always bear in mind that these small things are often 
 the most bothersome, and as loom-fixers are so apt to get 
 slack and negligent about their work, is the reason why 
 we speak of so much care and attention being given such. 
 
 It is almost impossible to make good perfect cloth 
 without good filling and warp, and the more the warp 
 breaks, the more picking out there will be, and the cloth 
 will be uneven from such work; but, more especially 
 in light weight goods. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 37 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 In closing these remarks on the Crompton upright 
 lever loom, we wish to state that we would have been 
 pleased to give a more detailed account concerning, the 
 setting and operating, the different harness motions in 
 use on Crompton fancy looms. But, as there are so 
 many different kinds of them, and so many of the old 
 styles being set aside, we decided to speak of only the 
 above style, and that which, in our estimation, is the 
 best and most in use at the present day. 
 
 Setting aside the harness motion, the remaining run- 
 ning parts on all of Crompton's fancy cassimere looms, 
 are on or about the same principle. Hence, a Crompton 
 fixer, cannot help finding some assistance in the preced- 
 ing chapters ; either on one or more of the motions about 
 the loom. 
 
 All will agree, that it is essential for anyone attempt- 
 ing to learn loom fixing, to have some starting point; 
 either through practical showing, or theoretical instruc- 
 tions. It was with this point in view, that the preceding 
 chapters were written ; believing, at the same time, that 
 the beginner after giving their contents a careful study, 
 
38 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 would be as far advanced in the general principles of 
 loom fixing, as would otherwise require him months of 
 hard labor and perplexities. 
 
 The most successful men in any department of life, 
 are those who give their attention to details ; and if 
 there are any class of young men on whom this should 
 make a deep and lasting impression, it is those who have 
 chosen loom fixing as their trade. 
 
 In conclusion we would say, that if we have overlooked 
 any point or points about the loom, and the many diffi- 
 culties of which a loom-fixer has to contend with, that it 
 is an oversight on our part, and not done intentionally; 
 and, we trust that the reader will excuse such, if any. 
 
 It has been our aim to give the preceding details in as 
 exemplifiable manner as possible, and as to how far we 
 have succeeded in this undertaking we leave it for the 
 reader to say. 
 
 As we now close these remarks, we trust that the read- 
 er may receive some benefit from them, and that in years 
 to come he can look back to this little work with feel- 
 ings of gratitude for the benefit derived from it in years 
 gone by. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 

PART II. 
 
 THE KNOWLES LOOM. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ITS ADVENT INTO THE MANUFACTURING WORLD — ITS AD- 
 VANTAGES OVER OTHER LOOMS — ITS MECHANISM 
 —SUGGESTIONS TO CHAIN BUILDERS. 
 
 To one who has become familiar with the workings of 
 a Crompton loom — previous to the u 1880" style — the 
 harness and. box motion of this loom may seem compli- 
 cated. 
 
 It is too often the case, and we may venture to say a 
 rule with most young fixers, when looking - at a loom 
 with which they are not familiar, to try to take in at a 
 glance and apprehend the whole combination, and tin; 
 relation which each separate part sustains to the other. 
 This cannot be done unless he possess a brain of wonder- 
 ful power, and to that class this feeble attempt to instruct 
 will be wholly out of place. To be sure, the general 
 principles of weaving are the same on all looms, but each 
 and every improvement made on weaving machinery de- 
 mands study of the fixer, however well informed he may 
 be in other matters pertaining to weaving and fixing; 
 and fifteen minutes of careful study, occasionally, on any 
 loom is never wasted time. 
 
 4 
 
42 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 The advent of the Knowles loom into the manufactur- 
 ing world, brought with it many advantages over the 
 looms then in use. The harness and box motion was con- 
 structed upon new principles, the latter being so arranged 
 that any box can be brought to a level with the race re- 
 gardless of the box which preceded it. 
 
 This, especially by designers, was considered a great 
 improvement as it would facilitate in making patterns. 
 
 If it was an advantage to that class, it was doubly so 
 to fixers as it did away with till the vexatious troubles 
 caused by “reverse” and “double reverse” on other 
 looms. 
 
 As the working of the boxes is so intimately connected 
 with the harness motion, many suggestions which might 
 be made for running one would also be applicable to the 
 other; it will, therefore, be necessary to follow the 
 movements of both in their workings, and in so doing we 
 shall try to present our ideas in as clear a manner as pos- 
 sible, so that fixers who have spent their days on the old 
 style of looms, and find that they have drifted on the 
 great tide of progress into a position where the Knowles 
 loom is in use, they may be able to take hold of it with 
 little or no trouble. 
 
 We do not expect that the ideas herein contained w ill 
 meet with the general approval of all fixers on the 
 Knowles loom. There may be some thoughts suggested 
 which they cannot agree with; but let it be understood 
 that experience under different circumstances generate 
 different ideas, and however good an experience one may 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 43 
 
 have had, or however good ideas one may possess, an- 
 other may rank as high in both and yet differ in many 
 points. 
 
 It may be well^enough to state at the commencement 
 that the loom we have before us is the “Knowles' Patent 
 Open Shed Fancy Loom." 
 
 The Head which operates the harnesses and boxes is 
 driven by an upright shaft running from an intermediate 
 gear close behind the crank shaft, and connecting at the 
 top with two long driving gears or cylinders which lie 
 one above the other in a horizontal position running in 
 opposite directions. 
 
 't he top gear is for raising both harnesses and boxes, 
 the bottom gear for falling the same. 
 
 These gears or cylinders, the fixer will of course under- 
 stand, run at the same speed as the crank shaft. 
 
 That part of the cylinder which operates the harnesses 
 is adjustable and can be set so that the harnesses will 
 change in advance of the boxes according as the work 
 may be. 
 
 For common work four teeth in advance is about right. 
 
 In making a change at any time, the fixer should be 
 very careful and have the top and bottom cylinders the 
 same number of teeth in advance, in order that the har- 
 nesses may commence to rise and fall at the same time. 
 
 It will be observed that the cylinder has nineteen teeth, 
 thus using half its circumference, and that the vibrator 
 gear has seventeen teeth on either side and between two 
 spaces; one space of four teeth, the other of only one. 
 
44 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 The space of four teeth is for the cylinder to pass with- 
 out working the harness or box, while the space of one 
 tooth is tiie starting point either up or down. 
 
 Now in order that the vibrator gears be placed in the 
 right position at the right time for either cylinder to catch 
 them, the chain must pass under the vibrator lever at just 
 the exact time; and herein lies the whole secret of man- 
 aging the Head of a Knowles loom. 
 
 We will remark right here, however, that if the direc- 
 tions and suggestions herein contained are carefully ob- 
 served the fixer will have but little trouble as far as the 
 working of the harnesses and boxes are concerned. 
 
 In the first place, then, the chain shaft, being run by a 
 gear, is a constant and not an intermittent movement; 
 and having six places for chain bars would, consequently, 
 run one-sixth times as fast as the cylinders, thereby bring- 
 ing a bar of the chain directly under the vibrator lever 
 at a point where it would either raise or lower the vibra- 
 tor gear at every revolution of the cylinder. 
 
 We will suppose that one of these looms has been put 
 into a mill where the fixer has been used to other kinds 
 of looms, and it becomes his duty to put in the warp and 
 begin the weaving. 
 
 The building of the chains will be the first thing to at- 
 tend to, and unless the fixer gives heed to what is said on 
 this point, he may have occasion to regret it in a short 
 time after starting the loom, for very much depends on 
 the way in which the chain is built. 
 
 The harness chain is constructed the same as for other 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 45 
 
 looms; a “riser” brings the harness up, a “sinker” or 
 tube carries it down. And now for the most important 
 lesson to be learned in chain-building, be careful how the 
 links are put on. 
 
 In constructing a chain for any loom, fixers and boys 
 are taught to place the links with both ends in on one, 
 and both ends out on the other. This is right and if car- 
 ried into effect there will be no trouble. 
 
 The following suggestions may be of profit to the chain 
 builder: Use the rack furnished by Knowles Brothers, 
 if there was none sent with the looms apply for one at 
 once which will be forwarded free of cost. This should 
 be placed on a nicely constructed bench made on purpose 
 for chain-building. A common work-bench is no place 
 for chains. 
 
 There should be a place beneath where the bars can be 
 kept, also a place for the links where no heavy weight 
 can fall and bend them. On the top and either side of 
 the chain rack should be separate places for “ risers,” 
 “sinkers,” links and pins. Knowles Brothers make no 
 double “ risers nor “ sinkers,” they are all single. Bight 
 here a word of warning may be given in regard to mixing 
 other chain stuff with this. It will not work. 
 
 Now with the rack in its proper place proceed to fill 
 each space with bars, then beginning on the left hand side 
 place a link on the first two bars, then another on the 
 third and fourth, and so on, until an even number of bars 
 are filled, then beginning again, place a link on the second 
 and third, on the fourth and fifth and so on to the last 
 
46 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 bar when it will be found that the last link will connect 
 the last and first bars together, or any even number of 
 bars, without having any link wrong. Then the pins 
 should be put in and spread a very little, at the point just 
 enough to keep them from falling out. In making pins, 
 care should be taken not to have them too long. They 
 should not roach past the link. 
 
 One sinker should now be put on to each bar, and if 
 there are only eight, ten, or twelve harnesses in use, the 
 space may be filled a part of the way with “ risers," but 
 in doing so, it is a good plan to take a certain space, and 
 fill it evenly the whole length of the chain. For instance, 
 on a twenty harness loom, where but eight are required 
 to weave the pattern there will be a space of twelve har- 
 nesses, and a space of eight may be filled with “risers” 
 without detriment to the unused jacks. The harness 
 chain should not be less than twelve bars in length, and 
 sixteen are better. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 47 
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 
 CHAIN BUILDING — METHODS FOR OPERATING BOXES — 
 CHAIN DRAFTS — HANGING HARNESSES. 
 
 Before proceeding with an explanation of chain-build- 
 ing for the boxes, and the working of the same, it will be 
 necessary to say that all looms built since 1880 have a 
 little different mechanism for working the boxes than 
 those built prior to that time. 
 
 'fhe difference consists in the construction of the Com- 
 pound levers, the latter is considered quite an improve- 
 ment over the old. 
 
 Now in order that the fixer may easily comprehend the 
 ideas intended to be conveyed, we will illustrate with a 
 box chain for both the new and the old make of level's. 
 We will suppose there are four kinds of filling to be used, 
 thus : 2 picks of black, 1 pick of red and black twist, 2 
 
 picks of gray, 1 pick of orange and black twist. This 
 pattern is selected, not for its practical use, but for two 
 reasons; first, as four boxes are required, to show how 
 the chain should be construced, and second, as one would 
 naturally begin with top box and work to bottom to show 
 that in a pattern of this kind the boxes at both ends of 
 the loom ought not to work from top to bottom together, 
 
48 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 and then drop to top again, but when one is up, the other 
 should be down, and this rule should be invariably fol- 
 lowed when the pattern will allow whether there be four, 
 three, or two boxes at both ends in use. 
 
 The reason will be obvious when the fixer understands 
 the amount of labor which the cylinder and compound 
 levers have to perform in working the boxes. 
 
 In adopting this method it will not only be much easier 
 for the loom, but lighter work for the weaver in turning 
 the crank hunting for a lost pick, or picking out. Be- 
 fore giving the draft for building a chain for weaving the 
 above pattern, the careful attention of the fixer is called 
 to the principle on which the boxes are worked. 
 
 The vibrator gears and levers are made the same as 
 those which work the harnesses 
 
 From the vibrator gears long connectors reach to the 
 Compound Levers. From these levers a chain runs over 
 little pulleys and is attached to the rod which supports 
 the Box Rest. Now it will be observed that there are 
 four vibrators which work the boxes, two for each end of 
 the loom. The two next the back of the loom works the 
 box on the belt end, the two next the front work? the box 
 on the end nearest the head motion 
 Always bear in mind that the vibrators which control 
 the boxes at one end of the lay work independent of the 
 other. Therefore, in building a box chain it would be 
 well to draw a line with pencil through the centre of 
 chain draft and thus keep the fact in mind that the two 
 spaces on one side of the line are for the boxes at one end 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 49 
 
 of the lay, and the two on the other side are for the boxes 
 at the other end, as in the draft below, which is for 
 looms made prior to 1SS0. 
 
 We think the idea is made plain in this draft. Begin- 
 ning at the top it will be seen that for the first two bars 
 the two spaces on the left of the line have “sinkers,’’ 
 while the two spaces at the right of the line have “risers 
 therefore, the box at one end is clear down, while at the 
 other it is clear up, and will put in two picks of black. 
 Now comes a change. It will be observed there is a 
 “ riser" at the extreme left, also one at the extreme right. 
 
 The box which has been clear up will fall one, and the 
 other will rise one, and put in one pick of red and black 
 twist. 
 
 The next change will bring the boxes both at the sec- 
 ond where two picks of gray w ill go in. 
 
 At the next change it will be seen that the boxes stand 
 opposite to what they did at starting, the one having 
 gone up one box at a time, while the other is going down. 
 
 One very important feature in this connection, is the 
 simple manner in which a thread of filling can be put in- 
 to any desired shed. For instance, if the single pick of 
 
 TOP. 
 
 2 Black 
 
 1 Red & Black X . . X 
 
 2 Gray 
 
 1 Orange & Black XX.. 
 
50 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 orange and black twist is desired to go into a particular 
 shed, all the fixer has to do in putting on the chains is to 
 have the bar on the box chain exactly off against ihe bar 
 in the harness chain which contains the shed in which it 
 is intended to go, or in other words, have the end of one 
 come to the end of the other on the chain shaft. 
 
 Fixers who have worked on Crompton’s “1SS0" style 
 of loom, where boxes are worked on about the same prin- 
 ciple, knows that the box chain has to be placed one bar 
 in advance of the harness chain, and unless a fixer be 
 skilled in putting on chains, several trials have to be 
 made before the pattern comes right. 
 
 Previous to giving a draft for building a box chain to 
 weave the above pattern with the improved Compound 
 Levers, we will quote from a manuscript kindly loaned us 
 by the builders which gives very clear directions for ad- 
 justing these levers to work the boxes properly. “The 
 boxes are adjusted by sliding the movable bolt at centre 
 of long lever, or the movable slide at end of short lever. 
 Raising the movable bolt gives more motion to the box 
 with single lift as from first to second, and pushing in the 
 movable slide gives more motion to the box with double 
 lift as from first to third, etc. And the two short or in- 
 side levers with pulley are the double lift and call the 
 boxes from first to third, second to fourth, etc." 
 
 Now for building a chain adapted to this mechan- 
 ism, proceed the same as with the old by drawing a 
 pencil mark through the centre, and it will be found 
 that on the right of the mark the chain will be the 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 51 
 
 same as in the old, while on the. left it will 
 be exactly opposite. Thus : — 
 
 TOP. 
 
 2 Black 
 
 
 X X 
 XX 
 
 1 Red & Black 
 
 . X 
 
 . X 
 
 2 Gray 
 
 {S: 
 
 X . 
 
 x • 
 
 1 Orange & Black 
 
 XX 
 
 
 The following is to the point, and 
 
 aid 
 
 the fixer in building the chain. 
 
 A roll with a tube at the right brings the second box on 
 the Head end of the loom, and a roll with a tube at the 
 left brings the second box at the pulley end of the loom. 
 A roll with a tube at the left brings the third box on the 
 Head end of the loom and a roll with a tube at the right 
 brings the third box on the pulley end of the loom. 
 
 When the chains are constructed of all new material 
 they should be dipped in oil, and many fixers have adop- 
 ted a plan, which is a good one, of fastening the chain 
 together over a line of shafting and let it run for several 
 days when it becomes limber and pliable. 
 
 When the chains are ready for the loom they can be 
 put on very easily. 
 
 In the first place unlock the clutch on the upright shaft 
 before mentioned. This is done by pulling on the little 
 shipper lever inside of the arch stand. Then with one 
 hand turn the cylinder crank slowly until the lock-knife 
 is back, then with the other hand pull the Evener Slide 
 out; then turn the crank over once and it will be found 
 
52 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 that the harness jacks are all even, and that the cylinders 
 do not catch the vibrator gear. The Evener Slide holds 
 the gears from meshing into the bottom cylinder, and it 
 will be seen that the space where four teeth are gone in 
 the gears are all up, thereby not letting the top cylinder 
 catch the gears. Now with the head motion in this posi- 
 tion the chains can be put on also the warp put in. 
 
 In hooking the harnesses on at the top it will be seen 
 that they are all up, and their tops should be about 9}., 
 inches from the under side of the loom arches, under 
 which they hang. 
 
 The harness jacks have notches for both top and hot- 
 tom wires, and a very good rule to observe in placing the 
 wires is to put the -first three in the third notch from the 
 bottom, the next three in the fourth, and so on ; be sure 
 and have the wires at the other end of the jacks corres- 
 pond with these already put on, beginning at third notch 
 from the jack comb. 
 
 Mr Knowles says ‘"the harnesses should be hung very 
 loosely , as nothing is gained by tight strapping, and it 
 tends to hinder the free working of the harness head." 
 Jn order to have an even tension on the harness straps, 
 when hooked underneath, after tying the warp in, begin 
 at the front harness, and by raising the connectors one at 
 a time, it will be found that the harnesses will drop clear 
 down. Then with the cylinder crank bring them just 
 half way up, that is, bring them just high enough so that 
 a warp thread will be on a line with the breast beam and 
 whip roll, or thread bar. With the harnesses in this posi- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 53 
 
 tion hook them underneath, then they will have the same 
 tension whether up or down. 
 
 Everything being now in readiness, push the Evener 
 Slide in, and then turn the cylinder crank over quite a 
 number of times to make sure that nothing in the har- 
 nesses or chains can catch. 
 
 Now before starting the warp it will be well for the 
 fixer to examine very closely, and understand if possible, 
 the workings of the three pinions and the relation which 
 they sustain to the Chain Shaft Gear. 
 
 We will say, however, that the builders have recently 
 made a change in these pinions, and also done away with 
 what was called the “Snap Handle.” But as there are 
 so many of the old kind in use we will deal first with 
 them, after which will try to explain what the improve- 
 ments are. 
 
54 
 
 THE LOOM-FIX EH S* MANUAL. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 WORKING OF THE PINIONS — REVERSING THE CHAINS FOR 
 PICKING OUT — SETTING THE CHAIN SHAFT GEAR 
 — PRACTICAL HINTS AND GENERAL RULES. 
 
 On the end of the bottom cylinder shaft towards the 
 front of the loom are two pinions ; the one on the outside, 
 or end of the shaft, is the larger of the two and is called 
 tile Single Reverse Pinion, the smaller, the Chain 
 Shaft Pinion. 
 
 These work on a movable spline, or key, on file end of 
 which is a knob and is called the Reverse Knob. This 
 spline is only long-enough to reach through one pinion, 
 and in this simple arrangement is the whole plan for revers- 
 ing the pattern chains for picking out; which is done by 
 placing one hand on the cylinder crank and slowly mov- 
 ing it back and forward while its position is nearly hori- 
 zontal, and with the other hand pull the Reverse Knob, 
 which Mill slide out very easily when the spline beds in 
 both pinions are in a line with each other. The outside, 
 or large pinion will then be the one which works the pat- 
 tern chains, and it will be found by turning the crank for- 
 ward that botli chains are running backwards; hence the 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 55 
 
 simple manner in which a lost pick maybe found or fill- 
 ing threads removed from the shed. 
 
 When the right pick is found there is no going around 
 the end of the loom with a pry to set the boxes, for while 
 reversing the chains the boxes also reverse and keep pace 
 with each filling thread removed so that when the right 
 one is found the boxes are in the right position. Work 
 the cylinder crank in the same manner when pushing t lie 
 spline in, and when this lias been done, turn the crank 
 over once before locking the clutch on the upright shaft. 
 
 The weaver should be instructed to use great care in 
 working the Reverse Knob, and see that it is never left 
 a part way out, for the fixer can see at a glance that if 
 this should be done and the loom started one of the pin- 
 ions would be snapped at the first movement. This is 
 only applicable to the old style of pinions. Above these 
 is a double pinion which acts as an intermediate, and is 
 called the Double Reverse Pinion. By watching its 
 movements the fixer can easily understand its relation to 
 each other. 
 
 It will be seen that the chain shaft gear is not fastened 
 to the chain shaft itself, but that the casting which holds 
 the Snap handle is fastened thereto by a soft set screw, 
 and then fastening itself to the gear by the snap pin ; 
 and, says Mr. Knowles, “as this is the otdy medium by 
 which power is communicated to the chain shaft, it is 
 very essential that this be kept in proper position." 
 
 This brings us to our starting point in which we said 
 “herein lies the whole secret of handling the Head mo- 
 
56 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS 1 MANUAL. 
 
 tion of a Knowles Loom.” Mr. Knowles goes on to say 
 that “Any change, however slight, at its (that is the east- 
 ing of the Snap Handle) connection with the chain shaft, 
 is increased many fold through the long arm of the snap 
 handle in its connection with the chain shaft gear, and if 
 set so as to move the chain shaft sooner, will allow the 
 vibrator gears to drop out of the cylinder gears before 
 they have done their work, and if later, will not biing 
 them into position at the time w hen they should com- 
 mence working.” 
 
 Now before starting the loom, if there is not already a 
 mark, it would be w 7 ell for the fixer to take a sharp cold- 
 chisel and with a hammer make a fine mark on the end 
 of the chain shaft extending it on to the casting so that 
 if the shaft gets out of place it can be easily replaced, 
 having the mark for a guide. 
 
 Right here we will say that before the looms leave the 
 shops where they are manufactured, they are all timed 
 and pinned; and for the information of any, (although 
 we doubt if there are such) who are as ignorant of such 
 things as one fixer we have in our mind, we will say that 
 these pins which are inserted between the teeth of the 
 bevel gears on the upright shaft, also on the chain shaft 
 gear and reverse pinions, are put there for a purpose. The 
 fixer above referred to having occasion to put on a new 
 gear aud not giving heed to placing it so that the pins 
 would insert themselves into counterbore in opposite 
 gear, thought they were in the way and took a chisel and 
 cut them off. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 57 
 
 It must be apparent to any lixer that as these gears are 
 all pinned it will be impossible for any part, of the Head 
 motion to go wrong so long as these do not get misplaced. 
 
 And now in regard to the improvements above men- 
 tioned, the first under our notice is in the two pinions on 
 the bottom cylinder shaft. On all looms of recent date 
 these pinions have a chamber in w hich the spline may 
 work independent of either pinion. These pinions are 
 three-quarters of an inch in width, and one-quarter of an 
 inch in each is used for the chamber, which leaves a half- 
 inch of spline bed on the outside of each pinion. There- 
 fore, it will make no difference in what position the cylin- 
 der crank is, the spline can be pulled into the chamber, 
 then by working tin* crank slowly, it can be drawn into 
 the Reverse pinion. 
 
 Another improvement, which has already been men- 
 tioned, is, the snap handle has been done away with, 
 and the gear is now fastened to the chain shaft with a 
 soft set screw. 
 
 'fhe leading cause for disarrangement, as has already 
 been intimated, is in the having one of the chains kink 
 and run up under the vibrator levers. Occasionally, how- 
 ever, a rivet may wear off, or slip out and let the vibrator 
 gear fall into the lower cylinder, but in this case almost 
 invariably results in unhooking the connector from the 
 harness jack without further damage. 
 
 The first, cause always results more disastrously, and 
 we will call the fixer’s careful attention to the point as he 
 5 
 
58 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS" MANUAL. 
 
 will doubtless be called to adjust these parts which have 
 become disarranged from this cause. 
 
 We will suppose that in building the chains proper care 
 was not taken in placing the links according to instruc- 
 tions, and in consequence the chain kinks and runs up 
 double. 
 
 It will be seen at once that when the chain has gone as 
 far as possible that the chain shaft must stop. 
 
 Something must give way. 
 
 As has been stated the casting which holds the Snap 
 handle on the old loom, and the chain shaft gear on the 
 new, are fastened to the chain shaft with a soft set screw, 
 which inserts itself into a hole drilled into the shaft. A 
 very important lesson is to be learned right here. 
 
 This set screw is made soft so that in case the chain 
 should catch, or any thing get misplaced to hold the 
 shaft from turning, this screw will shear off and no fur- 
 ther damage be done. 
 
 In the example which we have before us, the chain 
 runs double as far as possible and the strain all comes on 
 the screw which shears off and lets the shaft revolve. 
 
 A case came under the writer's observation at one time 
 where this happened several times in succession, and the 
 fixer who entertained no very intelligent ideas on cause 
 and effect, procured a steel set screw, thinking to obviate 
 the trouble by fastening it in that way. Fixers must 
 learn that cause will have its effect, and if difficulties are 
 overcome the cause must be removed. To strike a blow 
 at the effect will not remove the cause. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 59 
 
 As in the above instance, it the chain had been proper- 
 ly constructed, due care having been taken to see that 
 every part was perfectly pliable and in working order, 
 there would have been no trouble ; but as it proved to be, 
 in one place links were found lapping by each other 
 which caused the chain to bind and to run up under the 
 levers double. 
 
 The steel set screw having been put in did not prevent 
 the chain from catching as the fixer learned in due time. 
 The loom was started, however, and very soon he was 
 called again. This time he did not find the set screw 
 sheared off, but he found every tooth in the chain shaft 
 pinion gone. But we have drifted away from the point 
 we were intending to touch. 
 
 How is the chain shaft gear to be set after having been 
 misplaced? On the loom where the snap handle is used 
 it is done in this way: remove the set screw, and then 
 with a cold-chisel placed between the casting and chain 
 shaft gear, serving as a wedge, strike several blows with 
 a light hammer, and it will be found to start quite easily. 
 
 Procure another set screw very soft, unless the same 
 one is long enough to use again. Replace the Snap han- 
 dle, being guided by the mark above mentioned, which 
 had previously been made with cold-chisel, on end of 
 shaft and casting. 
 
 The same rule is good where no snap handle is used. 
 
 In case the hole in the chain shaft becomes worn so 
 that the set screw does not hold the gear in just t he place 
 it ought, it will be remembered that there are five other 
 
60 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 places where a hole may be made for the screw. After 
 having replaced the gear and set screw, run the cylinder 
 crank over several times, pulling out the reverse Knob to 
 make sure that it works both ways. 
 
 Now the reverse Knob may be pushed in, the clutch 
 locked, and the loom is ready to start. 
 
 In closing these chapters on the Knowles loom, a few 
 practical hints and general rules might be given which 
 may be found of great advantage to the inexperienced 
 fixer. In the first place, then, it will be seen that the 
 boxes set on a Eest so arranged that they can be lifted 
 out and replaced without any trouble whatever. 
 
 No packing should be put under or around them in any 
 way. To time the boxes, we again quote from manu- 
 script previously referred to. “Bring the lay forward to 
 protection, loosen the two set screws that fasten the 
 small spur gear to the crank shaft, and with the clutch 
 at bottom of upright shaft, locked , turn the cylinder gear 
 crank forward until the box rises 34 °f an inch, then 
 fasten the set screw. This times both the box and har- 
 ness motion.” 
 
 In working the old style of compound levers, if at any 
 time one of the boxes should be too low and another too 
 high, they can be regulated by the little slide at the top 
 of the levers, on about the same principle as one part of 
 the new style of levers which has been spoken of. 
 
 The vibrator gears should be kept as closely in the top 
 cylinder as possible and work easily; this can be done 
 with the set screws under the boxes at each end of the 
 chain shaft. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 61 
 
 In referring again to the cylinder, Mr. Knowles says as 
 follows: “For very light work the teeth on both harness 
 and box sections should be in line with each other; for 
 medium work the harness section should be about 4 teeth 
 ahead of the box section ; and for very heavy work 7 
 teeth ahead, which is the limit of adjustment.” 
 
 The object of the lock-knife is to hold the vibrators in- 
 to bottom cylinder, the arrangement is very simple, and 
 the parts easily adjusted. 
 
 If at any time the knife appears to be late in moving 
 back or locking in, the fixer must not be hasty in think- 
 ink the trouble is with the Knife, for the cam which op- 
 erates this is Keyed to the bottom cylinder shaft, but look 
 first and see if the chain shaft is moving on time. 
 
 Whenever the weaver has a break-out in the warp, the 
 harnesses may all be brought to a level in the manner 
 above described by pulling out the Evener slide and turn- 
 ing the crank once over. 
 
 The relative position of the two chains can never be 
 changed after being adjusted without unfastening and 
 removing them from the shaft. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
PART III. 
 
 CAM LOOM WEAVING & MIS- 
 CELLANEOUS ITEMS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 RULES FOR THE PRODUCTION OF CLOTH ON CAM LOOMS. 
 
 To acquire a competent knowledge of any art, it must 
 be learned either by reading, verbal teaching, observation 
 and reflection, or by actual practice; and it is of the ut- 
 most importance to the apprentice in any branch of busi- 
 ness to be told the theory of it, and shown how to use 
 the tools connected with that particular branch, and it 
 must be of use to the apprentice or a young beginner in 
 the weaving trade. Believing this, I have written this 
 chapter in hopes to aid those, who are running cam looms, 
 in producing different patterns. I think I have given full 
 explanations and such instructions, that any one, with 
 ordinary capacity and perseverance, may learn the theory 
 of the art. The writer, when a beginner in the trade, 
 often felt the want of such information, and considering 
 that others might be similarly situated, was induced to 
 write these pages. 
 
 DRAFTING CLOTH FROM SAMPLE. 
 
 Take the piece of cloth you intend to get the pattern 
 
64 
 
 TIIE LOOM-FIXERS’ MAXL'AL. 
 
 from, hold the f;tce towards you, and pick out to the 
 depth of half an inch ; then hold the piece to be drafted 
 between your thumb and forefinger, cutting off all the 
 threads of filling except those you intend to get the pat- 
 tern from — say from eight to eighty threads or as many 
 as the pattern may require; — then raise the threads of 
 warp, one at a time, so as to look under and see how the 
 threads of filling run; then begin on the side towards 
 your right hand, and set them down on the designing pa- 
 per reading up like a column of units in arithmetic : every 
 thread of filling that runs over the warp mark as one 
 down , and every thread of filling that runs under the warp 
 mark as one up. Now raise another thread and look un- 
 der and see how it runs; then begin to set it down at the 
 left of the first line as you would a column of tens in 
 arithmetic. Always begin with the same thread of filling 
 to work from ; pick out until your pattern repeats; then 
 you know that you have got the pattern required, that is, 
 that the cloth is nothing more than a repeating or com- 
 bining of many patterns. If your sample was plain cloth 
 you will find that, on looking at the following pickout: 
 1 *^ le ^hal line is just the duplicate of the first, 
 nijg!t 2 and the fourth is a duplicate of the second, and 
 i 23 ( so on it would be through the whole of the cloth. 
 
 As the horizontal of the designing paper represents 
 the number of harnesses it takes to make the pattern, up 
 and down on the designing paper represents the number 
 of picks it takes to -weave the pattern. Now if your pat- 
 tern begins to repeat so that your first horizontal row is 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 65 
 
 like the third, and the second is like the fourth, you 
 know it takes two harnesses and two picks to make the 
 pattern. If the pattern requires three, four, Avp, or up to 
 one hundred before it repeats, that shows that the pattern 
 is thus large. All patterns are not square; and there may 
 he more harnesses than picks, and vice versa , or they may 
 be square. After you practice a while you will see the 
 resemblance of your sample on the paper. 
 
 Having got your pattern as it is woven; now examine 
 the twist in both the filling and warp, and have your yarn 
 twisted like the sample, or you can never produce the 
 same pattern. To find the number of ends in the warp 
 count the number of threads in one inch and multiply 
 that by the number of inches the cloth is wide. If it is 
 single width, then it is 27 inches wide; this gives you the 
 number of threads in the warp. Now calculate your reed 
 from those threads obtained in your calculation. 
 
 In calculating reeds, divide the number of threads in 
 the warp by the number of inches you wish to lay goods 
 in the reed, that gives you the number of threads to one 
 inch, and this divided by the number of threads wanted 
 in a dent will give you the required reed. 
 
 If you have a plain doeskin pattern of 1760 threads in 
 the warp, and you wish to lay it 36 inches wide in the 
 loom, a reed of 10 dents to the inch and 5 threads in a 
 dent, will make 35 inches and two dents over, then put 
 in the selvage, which reeds an inch on a side, and you 
 have all told, little over 37 inches reeded yarn ; but it will 
 make just about 36 inches of cloth when oft' the loom. 
 
66 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 Doeskins twist towards you in warp; in tilling from you. 
 Twills, wind on the right of the bobbin, when they are 
 produced by the loom and filling. 
 
 SPOOLING AND DRESSING PLAIN DOESKIN W ARPS. 
 
 The spooler drum is one yard round; dresser reel is 
 three and a half yards round; 4 run yarn, 1760 ends in 
 warp; 40 ends on a spool: three warps 112 teeth on the 
 spooler clock; 72 teeth on the dresser clock ; 4 sections, 
 and 11 spools to a section. 
 
 CALCULATING RUNS OF WOOLEN YARN. 
 
 All honest reels are just two yards round; 40 threads 
 round the reel make a knot, or 80 yards; 10 knots make 
 a skein, or 800 yards; 2 skeins make a run, or 1600 yards. 
 
 CALCULATING STRIPED WARPS. 
 
 Count the different colors and see where they repeat and 
 see how many patterns there are in a section; then start 
 with one-half of a pattern, and end with one-half a pat- 
 tern, so they will come together right when you change 
 sections. 
 
 COMBINING PATTERNS IN THE CAMS. 
 
 □linn 12 These patterns are the two smallest that 
 2P2HK £ can be woven with two harnesses, and two 
 
 Hi [■□Li O ^ 
 
 ■□nnS i picks long, and three harnesses and three 
 1 2 3 4 5 picks long; as two will not go in three with- 
 
 out a remainder, so we have to repeat the patterns until 
 they will come together. In these two patterns we have 
 to make the plain cloth pattern three times over, and the 
 three pick pattern twice over, so three in six twice, two 
 in six three times. Xow every dot represents a harness 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 67 
 
 up, and where there is no dot, represents a harness down. 
 CALCULATING CAMS TO WEAVE THE PATTERNS THAT 
 CAN BE MADE ON THE STAFFORD LOOM. 
 
 I have learned by observation and experience, that 
 there are no other proportions that will work the patterns 
 smoothly and perfectly, except these I lay down in this 
 rule. If there is any change necessary it is in the shoe, 
 and not in the proportion of the cam. 
 
 I lay out my circle equally into 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 
 20 parts on those dials. All the different cams can be 
 produced that can be worked on cam looms. 
 
 DRAFTING UPRIGHT CAMS FOR DOESKINS. 
 ■iS"5 Take a pair of dividers and cut a circle ten 
 □■■■* inches across on a good smooth board: divide 
 ■shhu 2 it into ten equal parts, lining it straight 
 from the centre to circumference of circle; 
 then cut out ten leaves S % inches in diameter on press 
 paper, cut them out perfectly round ; then take a sweep 
 made so it will have a straight edge on one side 
 from the centre to circumference; put on one leaf, 
 and put a screw through your sweep so as to be able to 
 turn it ; now take seven-tenths of the circle and cut out 
 three-tenths; now the other four leaves in the same pro- 
 portions. This is the top cam. The bottom is made by 
 the same tools. Put on your circle another leaf of press 
 paper, put your sweep on as before, cut out nine-tenths, 
 leaving one-tenth in this. After you have drawn your 
 lines, take the dividers and space next to hub of an 
 inch on a side. Take a straight piece of tin and mark 
 
68 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 from those points each side direct to the outside point of 
 the one-tenth of circle, so as to strengthen the castings, 
 for if left too weak next to the hub it is liable to break at 
 that point. Now the top cam would be very heavy; so 
 we take a straight piece of tin ; after you have marked 
 round inch from the outside with a pair of dividers, 
 take the tin straight-edge, mark down to the hub } 2 inch 
 from the outside, leave two spokes y> an inch wide, which 
 will leave it strong enough for all practical purposes. 
 
 These leaves are to be % of an inch thick when sent to 
 the pattern-makers. Now observe that proportions and 
 locations are taken from the pattern as it is taken from the 
 cloth, as you will see illustrated in the rule for drafting. 
 
 Now we will locate these cams so that they will pro- 
 duce the pattern laid out. As your circle is divided into 
 ten parts, we will number them for convenience; we will 
 lay one leaf on the circle — let it be put on with centres — 
 perhaps it would be better to put a wire into the centre 
 so as to keep them perfect at that point. Now the pat- 
 tern, as it comes from the cloth, is put on a piece of de- 
 signing paper, making 25 points, five each way. Now as 
 each leaf represents an up and down line on the design 
 paper, each dot or mark represents one harness up. Jn 
 this line there are two up, one down, two up, each one 
 represents two on the dial or circle. Always beginning 
 with your largest number on the dial, we will begin at 
 ten; on this we. take two; that brings us up to four on 
 the circle; turn your leaf to the figure four, and fasten 
 it by tacking it to the board. You will see by examining 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 69 
 
 that as you set it up to the four, then miss one, take two 
 counts from the four to six, then take two, then count 
 from six to ten, cutting one-tenth off for a change of har- 
 ness, carries you up to ten, and back to seven ; from 
 seven to six is what is cutoff for a change; thus you 
 see the proportion and location. 
 
 Now we will take the second leaf; [Hit on another leaf. 
 The next is take four, miss one, two times 4 is 8, tu n 
 your leaf up to eight and fasten it there; now we will 
 take the third leaf, that is, take one, turn up to two, and 
 fasten it there, miss one take three; put another leaf on 
 the fourth one, take three and miss one, take one; so you 
 count up to six, put your leaf on there and fasten; the 
 fifth and last one of the top is miss one, take four, count 
 two, miss three, count eight, that brings you up to ten ; 
 put your leaf there and fasten; now put an awl through 
 one side of the hub, and you can take them off the circle, 
 numbering 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 ; now put them on a small screw, 
 put No. 1 first, put a screw through the hole on the 
 side of hub and centre: now put on No. 2, putting them 
 on those screws ; now No. 3, 4, and 5, and that part is 
 ready for the pattern-makers. 
 
 Now we will lay out the bottom and locate them. We 
 miss two, take one, which would bring us up to six, cut 
 off one-tenth, then we come between five and six; now 
 put on a leaf, turn up to six and fasten there; now take' 
 the second leaf, that is miss four, take one, which would 
 bring you up to ten, fasten there; put the third leaf on, 
 miss one, take one, that brings us up to four, fasten there; 
 
70 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL 
 
 put on a leaf, the fourth one, that is miss three, take one, 
 that brings us to eight, fasten there-; put on a leaf, the 
 liftli one, that is take one, miss four, that brings us up to 
 two, fasten there; put an awl through one side of the. 
 hub, take them off, numbering 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 ; then put on 
 small screws; you can put a leather nut on the screws; 
 now the pattern is ready to send to the pattern-makers; 
 when fitted up, put them on the shaft so the bottom will 
 stand in the middle space in the top. Some like it better 
 to set them vice versa, and finish the back or warp side. 
 
 DRAFTING ON THE SEVERAL CIRCLES. 
 
 Mentioned on the twelve, those we cut one-twelfth for 
 a change of harness ; when we put a four-pick pattern in- 
 to that, we divide it into four parts; in short, we always 
 divide the circle by the number of picks in the pattern. 
 We sometimes, in combining and doubling up patterns, 
 have to divide by the number of picks we proposed, and 
 calculate our gears from the length of patterns. The 
 gears for cams, two picks, we double up so as to make it 
 4 or 6 picks; four picks is a sixteen on pinion shaft, 
 thirty-two on cam shaft; or the pinion gear is one-half 
 as large as the cam gear. Six picks is sixteen on pinion 
 shaft, forty-eight on cam shaft; five picks, sixteen on 
 pinion shaft, forty on cam shaft; seven picks, sixteen on 
 pinion shaft, fifty-six on cam shaft; eight picks, sixteen 
 on pinion shaft, sixty-four on cam shaft; nine picks, six- 
 teen on pinion shaft, seventy-two on cam shaft : ten picks, 
 sixteen on pinion shaft, eighty on cam shaft. On the cir- 
 cle of fourteen parts we cut off one-fourteenth for a 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS* MANUAL. 
 
 71 
 
 change; on the one with sixteen part we cut oft' one-six- 
 teenth part for a change; on the eighteenth we cut oil' 
 one-eighteenth for a change; on the twentieth we cut off 
 one-twentieth for a change. Now for any pattern that 
 can be put into a cam as you get it from the cloth, or 
 from any other source, you can make, and calculate your 
 cams to weave the patterns you desire to produce. All 
 patterns have been invented, they never grew, but were 
 made by some one. 
 
 The example in the rule for combining is plain cloth 
 and three-harness twill; the first two lines are the plain 
 cloth, and the other three are the twill. Now we will 
 draft a cam to weave them. As they are combined, the 
 patterns count six picks, so we take two-twelfths for a 
 pick ; the first one is miss one, take one, miss one, take 
 one, miss one, take one, our first one counts up to four, 
 and we set the cam between three and four. The next is 
 set between seven and eight, and the third is set between 
 eleven and twelve. These are the three positions of the 
 cams; it has three raisers in a revolution on the plain 
 cloth cam; the first is located between one and two, the 
 second is between five and six, the third between nine and 
 ten ; you will see by referring to your dial how they stand. 
 
 The three-harness pattern is located, the first between 
 live and six, the second is located between eleven and 
 twelve; the pattern reads, miss two, take one, miss two, 
 take one; the next leaf is located between three and four, 
 next between nine and ten; the next leaf is located be- 
 tween one and two, the _ next between seven and eight. 
 
72 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL 
 
 Now cut ten circles inches in diameter perfectly 
 round, put the leaf on to your board with twelve divisions, 
 count up and cut them as they come on the circle; one- 
 twelfth is the proportion for the top part of this cam ; 
 then locate as indicated above. The bottom cam is the 
 same proportion in the plain cloth : they are set so as to 
 have the top come just in the middle of the open space 
 on the bottom. 
 
 The bottom cams of the three-harness twill is of this 
 proportion : it holds down two picks, is three-twelfths of 
 the circle; take two, miss one, take two, miss one. We 
 cover from one to four, and then from seven to ten; this 
 is the proportion and location. Now the second leaf of 
 twill is, take one, miss one, take two, miss one, rake one; 
 we cover from eleven to two, and from live to eight. The 
 third leaf on twill is miss one, take two, miss one. take 
 two ; we cover from three to six, and from nine to twelve. 
 
 The conical shoe that works with this cam is drafted 
 thus: two and three-eights inches to point of cone, with 
 a half inch face, three and three-quarter inches base, with 
 a centre mark one and a half inch: s from the back end, 
 leaving two and a quarter inches ; now from these ends 
 draw a line and you have the right proportion of shoe for 
 eight picks, and all under that number; you can make 
 the base to suit yourself. 
 
 The shoe for eight, nine, or ten picks, is drafted this 
 way: it is conical in shape, two and three-quarter inches 
 from base to point of cone; make a half inch face on the 
 points, and then draw a base line two and three-quarter 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 73 
 
 inches, and line from the ends of line on face and 
 base lines; you can make the base to suit yourself. 
 
 SATINET CAM. 
 
 ■□□□ 14 3 ’his pattern is put in the cam twice over, and 
 J2 makes an eight-pick pattern of it. Now to 
 « draft a cam for it, we miss three, take one, miss 
 □□□■ 2 three, take one; we cover between seven and 
 1234 eight, and fifteen and sixteen, leaving one-six- 
 teenth on the back end of our counting, always covering 
 up to the counting; the second leaf is miss one, take one, 
 miss three, take one; we cover between three and four; 
 the next is between eleven and twelve; and third leaf is, 
 miss two, take one, miss three, take one; we cover be- 
 tween five and six ; the next is between thirteen and four- 
 teen ; the fourth leaf is, take one, miss three, take one ; 
 we cover between one and two; next nine and ten; this 
 is the top cam. 
 
 The bottom cam for a four-harness satinet, reads : — 
 take three, miss one, take three, cut oft' a sixteenth for a 
 change of harness; we cover between one and six; and 
 next between nine and fourteen ; the second leaf is, take 
 one, miss one, take three, miss one, take two. It is evi- 
 dent that the extremes come together; so we cover be- 
 tween fifteen and four, and next between seven and 
 twelve; the third is, take two, miss one. take three, miss 
 one, take one, covers between fifteen and four; the next 
 is between seven and twelve; the fourth leaf is, miss one, 
 take three, miss one, take three; we cover between 
 6 
 
74 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 three and eight; next is between eleven and sixteen. 
 DIAMOND CAM ON THREE HARNESSES. 
 
 Miss two, take one, miss two, take one; Xo. 1 
 leaf the first earn, between five and six, the next 
 is between eleven and twelve; Xo. 2 leaf is miss 
 one, take one, miss one, take one; the first is 
 covered between three and four, the next is cov- 
 ered between seven and eight; Xo. 3 leaf is take 
 one, miss three, take one ; the first is covered between 
 one and two, the next is between nine and ten. On the 
 bottom part of the three-harness diamond cam, the Xo. 1 
 leaf is take two, miss one, take two ; the first is covered 
 between one and four, the next is covered between seven 
 and ten ; Xo. 2 leaf is, take one, miss one, take one, miss 
 one, take two ; the first is covered between nine and two, 
 the next is covered between five and six; Xo. 3 leaf is, 
 miss one, take three, miss one, take one; the first is cov- 
 ered between three and eight, the next is covered between 
 eleven and twelve. 
 
 DRAFTING THE OLD FASHION FOUR-PICK AND 
 FOUR-HARNESS CAM. 
 
 3nSn *§ No. 1 leaf is, miss three, take one, as it takes 
 Dlinn 6 three-twelfths for one pick, so we cut off one- 
 i23i twelfth for a change; this covers between four 
 and six; Xo. 3 leaf is, miss two and take one: we cover 
 between seven and nine; Xo. 4 leaf 4 3 2 1 is, take one, 
 miss three; we cover between one and three. Bottom 
 cam of the old-fashion four-pick and four-harness cam — 
 No. 1 leaf is, take three ; we cover between one and nine : 
 
 ■nn 12 
 nn« io 
 
 nan 
 ■nn 
 n*n 
 □n* 
 an 6 
 snn 
 mn 
 
 n«3 
 
 ■ 2 n 
 nnu 
 
THE LOOJI-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 75 
 
 No. 2 leaf is, take one, miss one, take two; we cover 
 from seven to three ; eight-twelfths are covered; No. 3 
 leaf is, take two, miss one, take two; we cover between 
 ten and six; No. 4 leaf is, miss one, take three; we cov- 
 er between four and twelve. 
 
 PLAIN CLOTH CAMS, WOVEN ON FOUR HARNESSES 
 AND FOUR PICKS. 
 
 ■gin No. 1 leaf is, miss one, take one, miss one, take 
 SSSS one; the first is covered between one and three; 
 1234 the second is between seven and nine ; No. 2 leaf 
 is, take one, miss one, take one ; the first is covered be- 
 tween one and three ; the second between seven and nine ; 
 No. 3 leaf is, miss one, take one, miss one, take one: we 
 cover between four and six; No. 4 leaf is. take one, miss 
 one, take one; we cover between one and three; the 
 second is between seven and nine. 
 
 LASQUINETT PATTERN. 
 
 □P55I m This pattern is well adapted for woolen 
 
 ■„|Bj 12 1 1 
 
 SSmS X 8 warp 3 run yarn, filling 4 run, 1440 
 
 nn*HM 4 th rPil< l s : left twist in the warp, filling right 
 □■■■□ 2 twist. The top cam — No. 1 leaf is, miss one, 
 
 12 3 4 5 
 
 take one, miss two, take two; we cover be- 
 tween three and four, the second we cover between nine 
 and twelve: No. 2 leaf is, take four; we cover from one 
 to eight; No. 3 leaf is, take three, miss two, take two; 
 we cover from eleven round to six; five picks up; No. 4 
 leaf is, take one, miss three, take three; we cover from 
 nine round to two; No. 5 leaf is miss two, take two, miss 
 two, take two ; we cover from five to eight, the second 
 
76 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 from thirteen to fourteen. Xo. 1 of bottom leaf is, take 
 one, miss one, take two, miss two, take one ; we cover 
 from thirteen round to two, from five to eight; Xo. 2 
 bottom leaf, miss four, take three; we cover from nine 
 to fourteen; Xo. 3 bottom leaf, miss three, take two, 
 miss two ; we cover from seven to ten ; Xo. 4 bottom leaf 
 miss one, take three, miss three; we cover from three to 
 eight; Xo. 5 bottom leaf, take two, miss two, take two; 
 we cover from one to four, second from nine to twelve. 
 
 MAKING AND SETTING UP THE SHELL CAM. 
 ■□□□ 32 This is done by plates and blocks, the 
 24 plates are cast thin, nine inches in diameter, 
 ■ : * is slotted and put on a spline, drilled by an 
 J| index into 20, 24 and 32 holes, put on to shaft 
 □□nil 4 so situated that all the holes will correspond 
 1234 with each other, and so that the 20 top 
 
 and bottom holes will be in a direct line, and on with the 
 24 and 32 holes. There tire blocks to cover these holes 
 as the patterns require. The range is from two picks up 
 to eight, and from two harnesses up to eight. They are 
 set up by dividing the number of holes by the patterns to 
 be set up, and calculating your blocks by the patterns. 
 For this pattern you take the 32 holes, S in 32 four times; 
 four holes make one pick in this pattern, so we count six- 
 teen holes and leave two holes for a change, covering two 
 holes, setting up to our counting as the other. Up to 
 your starting point you set a block up; to that point we 
 say miss three, take one, miss three, take one, so we count- 
 twelve, miss them, take four, leaving two holes for a 
 change; then we put on another plate, etc., with the other 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 77 
 
 leaves. The bottom is put up in this way: Take a 
 straight-edge and fill up the cam within two holes of the 
 blocks on top on each side, so that the top will stand in 
 the middle of the open space in the bottom, and so on 
 through the whole pattern. 
 
 BEAVER CLOTH ON FOUR HARNESSES. 
 
 2*n5 i-» -Eight picks long — leaf No. 1 \ye say: take 
 □■■■ io three, miss three, take one; we cover from one 
 ■■■n 6 t0 si^'froui thirteen to fourteen; No. 2 leaf is, 
 ■BS* ’ miss two, take one, miss one, take three ; we 
 1234 cover from five to six, from nine to fourteen ; 
 No. 3 leaf, take one, miss one, take three; we cover from 
 one to two, and from five to ten ; No. 4 leaf, take one, 
 miss three, take one, miss one, take two; we cover from 
 thirteen round to two, and from nine to ten. The bottom 
 is like the top. All patterns that can be put into the up- 
 right cams can be put into the side treadle looms. The 
 same proportion is right for all cam looms. In locating 
 the patterns for the side treadle looms with two shoes on 
 one treadle, it is necessary to locate your pattern produc- 
 er on a board, with its treadle, so as to locate your fol- 
 lower right, put them together where they will turn 
 smooth, and move the treadle out and in. 
 
 SLOTTING CAMS. 
 
 When you wish to locate them to produce the patterns 
 required, lay out the circle that the pattern requires, count 
 up and make the place for the slot, making a mark on the 
 bearing you revolve the plate on to represent the spline 
 on the shaft; then count up the next leaf, making the 
 
78 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 place for the slot with the last, and so on through the 
 pattern. 
 
 SETTING UP NEW LOOMS AND TIMING THEM. 
 
 Set them straight with the main line of shafting, level 
 them, strap up, and time them by bringing the shuttle 
 motion so that the shuttle will start sufficiently slow as 
 not to press off the selvage threads ; set the crank per- 
 pendicular when your shuttle starts; now bring the cam 
 or whatever raises the harnesses, — for you know that a 
 selvage, whether crank, eccentric, or heart motion, is 
 nothing more than a plain cloth weave — so time your 
 harnesses on a rising shed, turn up until it is just wide 
 open for the shuttle ; your lay will be from two to three 
 inches from the cloth. 
 
 After you begin to weave, spring your loom, hold the 
 shuttle back in the box, and turn over slowly so as to see 
 whether the shuttle presses on the selvage; it ought to 
 clear it so that no friction will come upon them. In start- 
 ing new looms, you want to run the shafts a while and 
 put in a reed, and set your protection finger and put your 
 shuttle in to see how it will work. When you are satis- 
 fied that all is right, put your warp in, hang it so that it 
 will not touch either the race plate or reed rail. In work- 
 ing, straps all new will stretch ; so you will have to draw 
 them up until they are in their proper places. 
 
 * * * I will withhold any further remarks, as I have 
 been plain enough for any man who will study the rules 
 laid down, so that he can take his patterns from cloth 
 and produce them again in the loom. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 79 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SPREADING THE WARP THREADS IN THE PROCESS OF 
 WEAVING. 
 
 The reader may be disposed to ask, and it may be as 
 well to explain at the outset, what is meant by “spread- 
 ing the warp threads in the process of weaving.” It is a 
 method by which the warp, instead of being run together 
 in splitfuls, each thread is made to stand out equally dis- 
 tant from each other in the cloth. In some fabrics, this 
 gives a much better an more filled-up-like appearance than 
 it otherwise would have, even when less warp yarn is em- 
 ployed. Indeed, this method of weaving converts what in 
 some cases would be but a mere rag, into excellent cloth. 
 
 We are aware that this sort of weaving in some parts 
 of the country is almost unknown. There are also those 
 who object to it on the ground that it throws too much 
 strain on the yarn, but we will endeavour to show that 
 for the most part this extra strain is caused by imperfect 
 methods being employed. There are others who would 
 gladly take advantage of it if they knew how it was done 
 and how to cope with the difficulties that crop up when 
 they try it, while there are large numbers who practice 
 it with the best results. 
 
80 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 The spreading of the warp threads in the cloth, then, 
 is produced simply by weaving with the two halves of 
 the shed, held at an unequal tension. It is most conve- 
 nient that the lower half be tight and the upper half a 
 little loose. This is accomplished by lowering the warp 
 lines a little at the heddles. Let us suppose Fig. 1 to rep- 
 resent the shed, and we will see at once what takes place. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 The dotted line A B is the warp line, and it will be seen 
 that the upper part of the shed has risen as far from the 
 centre C as the other part has sunk; but if we measure 
 the distance D E F, and the distance DIF, we will find 
 that the latter is considerably longer than the former, 
 and, consequently, that part D H F will be held tight 
 while D E F will remain loose. This is what must take 
 place before the warp threads are spread, and a beautiful 
 texture produced; but there are other things that may 
 occur to mar the whole eft'ect of this, which we will 
 require to notice. 
 
 The method of shedding in this sort of weaving differs 
 so much from that of any other that we deemed it neces- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 81 
 
 sary to introduce Fig. 2 to bring out the whole system as 
 clear as possible. Then suppose the dotted circle to rep- 
 resent the circle of the crank, and point 1 to be its 
 position when the reed is at the fell of the cloth. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 If we divide the circle into twelve equal parts, and it is 
 revolving in the direction of the arrow, the shuttle will 
 begin to move at point 4, and enter the shed at point 5, 
 and leave it again at point 9. Now where the warp does 
 not require to be spread, Ihe shed only requires to be open 
 from point 5 to 9, or % of the crank’s revolution. But 
 when spreading the warp, the shed has to be full open at 
 point 1, and of course remain open till it reaches point 9. 
 The reason of this will be quite obvious if we consider 
 that the cloth is formed when the shot is beaten up, and 
 
82 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 the threads must he held in the position we have already 
 described in order that they may take their proper place 
 at that time ; in fact, the opening of the shed requires to 
 tie adjusted with mathematical precision to the beating of 
 the shot. Too late, and it is seen in the cloth — too soon, 
 and it has a detrimental effect on the yarn. 
 
 We have seen this description of cloth frequently spoil- 
 ed by an imperfect construction of the shedding wiper or 
 tappet. Those who are acquainted with the subject will 
 be aware that the ordinary rule for the construction of 
 cams, etc., is not altogether suitable for shedding wipers. 
 This is owing to the treadles moving in a circle instead of 
 a straight line at their point of contact with the wipers. 
 They are frequently made, however, to that rule, and the 
 consequence is that when the sheds are opening and clos- 
 ing, the leaves of the cam are quite tight ; but when the 
 shed is full open the treadle does not come quite up to 
 the wiper, as indicated at point A, Fig. 3. This want 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 requires to be made up on the wiper. When this is not done 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 83 
 
 the treadle springs up, and the leaf of the cam goes up 
 with it and draws the upper part of the shed tight, which 
 requires to be held a little loose, and, as a matter of 
 course, makes “reed marked cloth.'’ 
 
 There is another thing that affects the spreading of the 
 warp in a very marked degree, but from its very simplic- 
 ity is frequently overlooked. That is the position of the 
 lease rods in the yarn — their distance back from the cam. 
 A little observation will explain this more clearly than 
 any language we could employ. Change their position 
 nearer and further back from the cam, and mark the effect 
 on the cloth. It will soon make itself visible, and by this 
 means their proper position can easily be ascertained. 
 
 We are now in a position to consider how all this 
 affects the strain on the yarn. First of all there is the 
 sinking of the warp line, which adds to the strain in so 
 far as it increases the angle of the shed ; but if every- 
 thing else is right it requires to be sunk so little that it 
 cannot make any appreciable difference. There is a very 
 bad practice however prevails in some places of raising 
 the back beam alone to produce this result. This throws 
 all the strain on that part of the thread between the cam 
 and the lease rods. It will be quite obvious that this is 
 detrimental to the yarn, and ought to be avoided. 
 
 Then there is the great length of pause necessary in 
 this sort of shedding which causes the change to take 
 place more suddenly. But the bad effect of this can be 
 entirely obviated by giving to the heddle leaves an eccen- 
 tric movement, fastest in the centre of the stroke, and get- 
 
84 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXEKS' MANUAL. 
 
 ting gradually slower until it merges into the full pause. 
 
 The only difficulty there is to contend with in regard to 
 this is the full weight of the thread being on the yarn 
 during the time the. shot is being beaten up. But a little 
 experience will teach the operator how to adjust the open- 
 ing of the shed to the beating up of the shot, so that they 
 both may occur almost simultaneously, the shed just the 
 least shade behind. When this is accomplished there will 
 only be a few threads at the selvage subject to any extra 
 strain. This is caused by the shrinkage which takes place 
 in the cloth, dining the process of weaving. The cloth 
 is always a little narrower than it is in the reed; conse- 
 quently when the reed comes forward to beat up the shot 
 with the full weight of the tread on the yarn, those threads 
 near the selvage will be strained in propoition as the cloth 
 has shrunk. The only remedy is to make the selvage 
 threads strong enough or elastic enough to sustain it. 
 
 Many fabrics, both of cotton, woolen, linen, and jute 
 are made in the manner described; and, moreover, there 
 are many other fabrics that would be greatly improved 
 if the same process were adopted with them. 
 
 For all practical purposes at present, we may divide all 
 descriptions of weaving into three classes. There is what 
 is commonly called open cloth, that is. where the threads 
 are run together in splitfuls, and a vacancy left between 
 them. This is done to show the colors of the weft. The 
 writer once saw a fine example of this class of weaving 
 in a large diamond pattern. The warp was wholly com- 
 posed of a bright scarlet, and the weft of a dark brown 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 85 
 
 color. It formed diamonds within diamonds, t lie one 
 scarlet, and the other brown, until they reached a point 
 in the centre. Of course, all that is required with this, 
 so far as our present purpose is concerned, is to see that 
 both parts of the shed are held at an equal tension, and 
 the reed will do the rest. Then there is that class we have 
 just been considering - , where it is not necessary to show 
 the weft, but that the cloth must have as thick and “fill- 
 ed up-like,” appearance as possible. Now, if we take an 
 ordinary plain web, for example (of any fibre), with two 
 threads in the split, if the warp threads are well spread 
 the cloth will present exactly the same appearance as if 
 it had been wrought in a reed of tw’ice the count, with 
 one thread in the split. It will now be easily enough un- 
 derstood, I think, what descriptions of cloth are best suit- 
 ed to this. Then there is the third class, to which I 
 referred; it is a matter of indifference whether it is 
 wrought the one way or the other. This is generally the 
 heaviest fabric, where the threads both of the warp and 
 weft are packed so closely together that neither process 
 will tell on it. 
 
 We now come to a point of more importance to weav- 
 ers in general — treading the shot. The reader may not 
 be fully aware of what “treading the shot” means, I will 
 explain it with reference to Fig. 2. Instead of having 
 the shed full open at point 1, as here indicated, it is open 
 a considerable time before the crank reaches that point; 
 consequently the full weight of the tread is on the shot, 
 while the reed is perhaps two or three inches from the 
 
86 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 fell of the cloth ; and the weft thread is dragged through 
 the warp to its place in the web. The consequences of 
 this to the yarn are so apparent that it will be understood 
 by a mere tyro in weaving. But had there been any com- 
 pensating advantages in an improved fabric of cloth, the 
 mischief thus done the yarn might have been over-bal- 
 anced ; but there is absolutely none. As has already been 
 pointed out, that to spread the warp threads each alter- 
 nate one should be a little loose; now all that is required 
 in the shedding is to hold them in that position just at 
 the instant the shot is being beat up. This can be accom- 
 plished with the shedding and felling oceuring simulta- 
 neously. It may be observed by any who may care to 
 examine it, that when the crank is forward with the lay, 
 it moves round a little, and consequently takes the wiper- 
 shaft with it, during which it may fairly be said that the 
 reed stands still. Some take the advantage of this to save 
 the yarn as much as possible, by keeping the shed a little 
 behind; but as this is but a small matter it need not be 
 insisted on. 
 
 We have frequently come in contact with those who in- 
 sist that the style of shedding we have just described is 
 what is commonly termed “treading the shot," and con- 
 demn it accordingly. But it will be found that none of 
 the evils attendant on the latter, accompanies it. And 
 perhaps this opportunity that has been afforded of show- 
 ing the difference, may lead some to adopt it with profit 
 who have hitherto rejected it. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 87 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PRACTICAL HINTS ON WEAVING — THE MANAGEMENT OF 
 A WEAVING ROOM — SOME OF THE ELEMENTS OF SUC- 
 CESS IN WEAVING — NEW NOTIONS AN1) OLD LOOMS — 
 WHAT CONSTITUTES A “GOOD FIXER."’ 
 
 A loom should be kept well oiled. 
 
 Heddles should be kept straight. 
 
 Loom belts should not be kept too tight. 
 
 Shuttles should be kept very smooth. 
 
 Hard twisted tilling should be steamed. 
 
 Every weaver should understand drawing in. 
 Harnesses should be hooked with uniform tension. 
 Cloth and warp beams should be perfectly straight. 
 •Weavers should be made to share the responsibility of 
 the work. 
 
 Side weights are better than temples for most kinds of 
 work. 
 
 The more a loom is kept running the more even the 
 cloth will weave. 
 
 Hoop iron faced with leather makes the best friction 
 for heavy work. 
 
 Harnesses should be kept well cleaned and oiled, and 
 not allowed to chafe. 
 
88 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MAXUAL. 
 
 Spoolers should not be allowed to learn to tie any other 
 than a square knot. 
 
 A warp will weave with much less strain in an open 
 shed, than in a close shed loom. 
 
 No heavier weight than is actually necessary should be 
 used on a conditional “take-up.” 
 
 Cotton rope for friction, with very little weight on the 
 “take-up,” will make even cloth on light weight goods. 
 
 Nothing is gained, but great losses is generally the re- 
 sult of speeding looms higher than they should run. 
 
 A little brush made of waste, tacked on the lay near 
 the shuttle box, is better to prevent filling drawing in on 
 the side of the cloth, than friction on the filling. 
 
 The shed should only be just deep enough to admit the 
 shuttle in its passage without chafing the warp. 
 
 Reeds should be well cleaned before warps are drawn 
 through them. 
 
 A good selvage not only improves the general appear- 
 ance of a piece of cloth, but is of great advantage in the 
 weaving. 
 
 Fining weavers for bad work is not the best method to 
 adopt. Cloth can be made perfect, and weavers receive 
 the full pay for weaving. Persons of vicious, slovernly, 
 and immoral habits have been the cause of such rules 
 being made; while good weavers, by accident, have suf- 
 fered by it. Hence, the penalty of fines should not . be 
 applied indiscriminately. 
 
 THE MANAGEMENT OF A WEAVING ROOM. 
 
 That the success of a mill depends upon competent 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 89 
 
 overseers, no one has ever denied. It would be useless 
 for a designer to toil early and late unless men of ability 
 stood ready to carry his designs into execution. The posi- 
 tion of overseer, however, in any department of a mill is 
 not an enviable one by any means. To those who do not 
 understand the cares and responsibilities, the perplexities 
 and annoyances to which an overseer is subject, the posi- 
 tion may seem a very desirable one; and many young 
 men look forward with high hopes to the time when they 
 can take charge of the department in which they are em- 
 ployed. 
 
 This is commendable, and we would not discourage 
 any who are striving by merit to gain position; for merit 
 deserves its reward; but how few there are who have 
 any conception of the great weight of responsibility that 
 must rest upon them after they have stepped into the po- 
 sition of overseer. 
 
 They may think they understand the work very well ; 
 they may flatter themselves that no obstacle can come in 
 their way which they cannot easily surmount; but years 
 of experience will teach them that overseers are doomed 
 to meet obstacles and difficulties all the way long. 
 
 An overseer of a weaving room is doubtless subject to 
 his share of troubles, and finds himself as often in places 
 where brains must be brought into requisition as any one 
 about the mill. There are so many wrongs to be righted, 
 and so many avenues of escape for those who have com- 
 mitted the wrongs, that he finds himself continually in 
 
90 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 search of causes, but finally has to shoulder the responsi- 
 bility, and face the result. 
 
 He learns that a weaving room will not manage itself, 
 but that he must constantly be on the alert. The old 
 saying, that “an ounce of preventative is worth a pound 
 of cure,” is of great import to the weaver. The power 
 of applying attention, steady and undissipated, is some- 
 thing which will greatly aid a man in his work. Noth- 
 ing should escape his notice. 
 
 It is not only necessary to understand weaving, and to 
 have good ideas of dynamical forces, but a knowledge of 
 human nature is equally essential. 
 
 Humanity differs so widely in its traits of character 
 that it is very important for one who is to take charge of 
 a lot of help to understand something of human nature. 
 An overseer who is ignorant in this respect may make a 
 great many mistakes which will cause him much trouble 
 and anxiety. He may speak in sharp tones of reproof to 
 a weaver who has committed some wrong, either care- 
 lessly or ignorantly, and a spirit of retaliation will take 
 possession of her and manifest itself on every convenient 
 occasion, proving a source of continual annoyance. 
 Whereas, if spoken to kindly, she would have seen her 
 wrong, and ever after avoided any thing of the kind. 
 
 On the other hand, there are some weavers so consti- 
 tuted that kind words are of no avail, ami more stringent 
 measures have to be adopted. 
 
 A supercilious overseer can so disgust his weavers that 
 they will avail themselves of every opportunity to make 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 91 
 
 his administration a failure; and every effort on his part 
 to ascertain the cause of bad work will be thwarted by 
 their adroitness, aided, of course, by sympathetic loom- 
 fixers. It is useless for one to think of success with a 
 class of help who care nothing for his interest, or the in- 
 terest of the concern. The sooner such help are disposed 
 of the better it will be for overseers and owners. 
 
 It is a lamentable, fact that there are a great many 
 young men who are so unsettled in their purpose as to 
 go from place to place importuning . overseers to give 
 them work at weaving, and after having secured work, 
 remaining only long enough to earn a few dollars and 
 then away to some other place. Overseers, however, are 
 learning that this class of help are not profitable; and 
 managers of mills are learning that it is for their interest 
 to pay sufficient wages to keep the best of help; so that 
 in the future, that large class who depend upon factories 
 for a living, will learn the all important lesson that it is 
 the meritorious who are employed. 
 
 As competition in the markets have driven manufactur- 
 ers to that place where nothing short of the best work 
 will answer the demands, it has necessitated greater care 
 and vigilence on the part of overseers; and, in fact, the 
 continual changes going on brings more labor, and a de- 
 mand for greater skill. Hence we see that nothing short 
 of practical talent, backed by a powerful executive abil- 
 ity, will answer as characteristics in the man who is to 
 successfully manage a weaving room in a mill which is 
 supplying the wants of a fastidious people. 
 
92 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 SOME OF THE ELEMENTS OF SUCCESS IN WEAVING. 
 
 In writing on this important subject, I am impressed 
 with the thought that one page of practical reading is 
 worth more than volumes of theoretical teachings to one 
 who is desirous of fitting himself for a lucrative position 
 in manufacturing. 
 
 Recognizing this fact, I shall endeavor to be practical ; 
 yet, as I search among the cobwebs and dust of past ex- 
 perience, for something which may serve as a stepping 
 stone for others to higher attainments, I am forcibly re- 
 minded of wrongs and inconsistencies which I have wit- 
 nessed emanating from administrative powers, and in 
 view of these facts, I shall underlie the whole with phil- 
 anthropic principles. 
 
 The man who enters a mill and accepts the position of 
 weaver, must assume the responsibilities connected there- 
 with, and his success only depends upon his abilities to 
 perform the duties of his office. The several elements of 
 which this ability consists has afforded thought for seri- 
 ous consideration among weavers of experience. It is 
 too often the case that serious thoughts can only be ar- 
 roused by serious failures: but if the thoughts could be 
 awakened at the beginning, the failures might be un- 
 known. If, by the few ideas presented in this chapter, a 
 train of thought may be awakened in the mind of some 
 one just entering upon an experience through which the 
 writer has passed, I shall have accomplished my purpose, 
 trusting the result may be beneficial. A thorough knowl- 
 edge of the mechanism of looms is not all that is requir- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 93 
 
 ed of a weaver. To understand the effect of colors, the 
 different weaves and combinations, and the relative 
 strength and size of yarns, are some of the qualifications, 
 but certainly not all. 
 
 * * * The results always looked for from the weaving 
 room, is perfect cloth, and as much of it, of course, as 
 facilities allow. To managers and others, who occasion- 
 ally pass in and out, and always hear the click-clack of 
 looms, this may seem an easy matter to accomplish ; but 
 to the weaver who takes pride in his work, and is anxious 
 for the best results, there is something formidable in the 
 array of work before him. His first thoughts are of his 
 help. If they are intelligent, and in some degree consci- 
 entious, he knows there will be but little trouble, com- 
 paratively, in turning off good work. 
 
 Overseers in all departments know that trouble among 
 help, or caused by help, almost invariably originate 
 among that class who are so ignorant as to entertain no 
 higher ideas of manufacturing, than was expressed by 
 one during a strike some years ago : “that capitalists 
 build mills to crowd down the poor!” A weaver stands 
 between his help and the owners. On the one hand if he 
 is detected in sympathy with any movement to reduce 
 wages, or enforce too stringent laws, he must expect 
 curses, and worse than that ; manifestations of vindictive 
 spirits which may work injury, not only to himself, but 
 to the owners. On the other hand, if he is known to be 
 in league with rebellious or “striking” help he might as 
 well make up his mind to vacate his position at once. 
 
94 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 Therefore, in all matters of these kinds, there seems to be 
 but one way, which is to be governed by a high sense of 
 duty to both and justice to all. 
 
 There has always existed in the minds of nearly all 
 classes of help mistaken ideas regarding the rules and 
 regulations which are laid down for mill government. 
 Because certain requirements are made in one direction, 
 and certain restrictions laid down in another, it is no rea- 
 son why help should think an injustice had been done 
 them. Let them take more sensible views of the matter. 
 What would States, committees, societies, or families be 
 without their laws, rules and regulations? 
 
 In the lirst place, it is left optional with people whether 
 they accept work in a mill or not; but if necessity com- 
 pels them to work, let them accept the conditions upon 
 which work is given, with the assurance that rules are 
 only made for the unruly. 
 
 But allowing a weaver to be fortunate in having an in- 
 telligent class of help, there still remains a watchfulness 
 and care to be exercised on his part, aside from his own 
 personal experience and knowledge of weaving which 
 must continuall}' be brought into requisition. One old 
 manufacturer who has had a practical experience in all 
 departments of a woolen mill, says that “it requires three 
 score and ten years for the most intelligent man to be- 
 come thoroughly practical in any one department. 
 Whether this be true or not regarding other rooms, I 
 should coincide with him so far as the weaving depart- 
 ment is concerned. 
 
THE LOOM-FIXEKS’ MANUAL. 
 
 95 
 
 After a man has spent one score of years in a weaving- 
 room, and thinks he has been dillig-ent in acquiring a 
 knowledge of its workings, he still finds his mind exer- 
 cised in solving a multiplicity of new problems. Practi- 
 cal experience, then, is not to be regarded only as an 
 essential, but an indispensible element in the way of suc- 
 cess. A persistency in righting wrongs, and overcoming- 
 difficulties is to be commended; but the ability to foresee, 
 and to prevent is more preferable. When once the servi- 
 ces of an incompetent fixer has been secured, it is better 
 to dispense with him as soon as the fact is learned than to 
 wait until bad cloth is made as the result of bad fixing. 
 
 It is surprising to know the power for good or bad af- 
 fect a weaver' may exercise simply by the habit which 
 lie has cultivated. If he is slothful or negligent about 
 his room, his help are not slow to note this element in his 
 character and to be governed by the same principles 
 about their work. If he manifests a carefulness and con- 
 cern about the work, he may almost rest assured that his 
 help will follow his example. He may also rest assured 
 that gruffness, peevishness, oaths or inconsistances on 
 his part will not be conducive to his own interest. Rebel- 
 liousness is a part and parcel of every one's nature, and 
 to rebel at ill treatment is quite natural as he himself can 
 testify when in times past his superiors have attempted 
 to enforce obedience or offered rebukes in a gruff manner 
 or accompanied by oaths ; and a man of good sense can- 
 not expect his help to bear more than he can bear himself. 
 Kindness is more effective than harsh treatment, and 
 
96 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 while it may be necessary to employ the latter uuder cer- 
 tain circumstances, the former should be the rule and 
 guide of a weavers’ conduct towards his help. 
 
 NEW NOTIONS AND OLD LOOMS. 
 
 * * * It is to be hoped that inventive genius supple- 
 mented with ambition will not over-reach itself amorig 
 loom-builders of the present day, as it seems likely to do 
 and fill the mad houses with poor unfortunates who have 
 started out with bright hopes on a loom-fixer’s career. 
 
 Inventive genius has indeed made many grand achieve- 
 ments and placed before an admiring world the beauty of 
 her labors; but there are very many inventions of a few 
 years ago that practical men are unwilling to lay aside 
 for some of the “new fangled notions,” which seems to 
 have sprang into existance more from pecuniary motives 
 on the part of inventors than from any practical use they 
 might ever be to manufacturers — were it possible to se- 
 lect the very best — the parts which have been often tried 
 and never denied, from among the many inventions and 
 from these to compile a loom, it would seem that perfec- 
 tion might be attained. The simplest is always the best. 
 Every addition made to a loom only adds perplexity and 
 labor, until fixers have become acquainted with it and 
 usage has discovered its weak points : and these must be 
 pointed out to builders with suggested improvements; 
 and while the buyers of the next make will receive the 
 benefits, the former must go on crippled. 
 
 It is a hard matter to draw comparisons between the 
 different make of looms and point out the decided advan- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 97 
 
 tages one has over the other, for there is no make but has 
 some good qualities, and there is certainly none but has 
 many deficiencies. However good the late improvements 
 on the Knowles and Crompton looms may be pronounced, 
 every loom-fixer, who has had experience on them, knows 
 perfection has not been reached and old fixers can see 
 where many parts are not quite as good as some parts in 
 the old patterns. Most any fixer of experience will agree 
 with the statement that no harness motion has ever yet 
 been invented, for simplicity and easy management, that 
 can surpass the shear motion patented by Gilbert in 1S68. 
 
 AVhen old fixers look back over a space of twenty years 
 and see the long line of different looms with which they 
 have struggled, often times in doubt as to which would 
 come off conquerer, loom or fixer, they do not fail to 
 recognize among that formidable array the loom which 
 was the most easily managed ; and it is quite natural for 
 one to speak of that loom as the best. Among such rem- 
 iniscences a fixer's brow will darken as he thinks of the 
 harness chain on the old Greenhalge loom with its wood- 
 en pegs; and the sheet iron shuttle binders with the pro- 
 tecting rod fingers at the outer end of the box ; and when 
 he thinks of hours spent in driving pegs and “tinkering” 
 on binders, it seems like wasted time, to say nothing of 
 the long string of oaths that have gone clattering away 
 with the wooden pegs. 
 
 Fixers also remember a certain pattern of cam loom 
 sent out by Davis & Furber, about sixteen years ago 
 with the dagger on the protecting rod in the centre of the 
 
98 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 lay, which acted as sort of a pivot on which the lay could 
 swing, and twist itself all out of shape whenever the 
 shuttle failed to reach the box at such times as the “knock 
 off" did not work. This was considered by many fixers 
 as the greatest nuisance extant and heartily corroborated 
 by all others. But the many improvements afterwards 
 added have placed them among the best cam looms in 
 the country. 
 
 One very bad feature of the late patterns of the Cromp- 
 ton harness motion, is in having the chain run backward, 
 or at least what -would seem backward to one who has 
 been used to fixing on other looms. And being under- 
 neath the fingers as it is, one person finds it quite a diffi- 
 cult task to put a long chain on, being obliged to hold its 
 entire weight in one hand while the other has to be used 
 in working the cylinder. On the old “pump motion" 
 this trouble is obviated by hanging one end of the chain 
 on the cylinder with both hands, after which it can be 
 easily worked. Another advantage the old “pump mo- 
 tion" has, as has also the Gilbert “shear motion," over 
 the newer styles, the cause of harness miss-picks can be 
 more readily detected ; for the simple reason that the 
 jacks stand out where their workings with the chain can 
 be easily seen. 
 
 There has doubtless been more brain-racking, neck- 
 twisting work, in trying to study out and peep into the 
 cause of harness miss-picks than in any other one trouble 
 about a loom. There have been many “new notions' 5 
 regarding frictions and “let offs" for woolen weaving, 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 99 
 
 but for all kinds of work nothing as yet seems to take 
 the place of the weight and lever friction, (unless it be 
 the very latest improvement on the Crompton loom which 
 remains to be decided). Unevenness in weaving seems 
 to have been one of the motives which prompted men to 
 devise something new; and a friction with connected 
 levers and pad which rested on the warp was the result 
 of much study. This was claimed to be a friction, which 
 if adjusted to the right number of picks at the commence- 
 ment of a warp, would keep the uniform number through- 
 out, without changing, until the warp beam became bare. 
 It was also claimed that a weaver could not change the 
 friction in order to put in a less number of picks, but it 
 failed in both cases to perform what was claimed for it. 
 It would not keep in a uniform number of picks through- 
 out an entire warp, but invariably has to be changed. It 
 is also cpiite as easily changed by a weaver, who feels 
 disposed to weave light cloth, as is the old weight and 
 lever. It cannot be expected, however, that the many so 
 called improvements on looms will meet with decided 
 favor by old fixers, but as the weight of years compels 
 them to lay aside the monkey-wrench and screw-driver, 
 and give place to the younger ones who can more readily 
 adapt themselves to the “new fangled notions," inventors 
 will not find it so difficult to please. 
 
 WHAT CONSTITUTES A “GOOD FIXER?” 
 
 It is not in the fact that a man has seen, and handled, 
 and perhaps had a little experience in fixing nearly all 
 kinds of looms. 
 
100 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS’ MANUAL. 
 
 1 have seen a inan who could talk very well concerning 
 the different make of looms, and as he expatiated on the 
 good qualities of this, and condemned that, and related 
 marvelous things about the workings of another, I re- 
 garded him as a wonderfully learned man among the craft. 
 But I saw that man placed in a position where practical 
 knowledge only, could avail, and lo, he was a begger. 
 
 Now a good loom-fixer will be a pretty good man in 
 other ways ; for the two essential elements, good judg- 
 ment, and good sense, which he must possess, will ac- 
 complish more for him than to make him a good fixer, 
 and without these he never will be much of anything. 
 
 If one were to listen to the different opinions expressed 
 by weavers, regarding a fixer, it would be a hard matter 
 to form an estimate of his abilities. It is not the man 
 who can curse and swear the loudest at his weavers, nor 
 the one who can joke and tell stories the longest, that is 
 the best fixer; although a good fixer may possess the 
 qualifications for doing either to a very limited extent. If 
 a loom has been running nicely for several days, or sev- 
 enth weeks, and till at once begins throwing the shuttle 
 out, or stopping, or going wrong in any way, it is but a 
 reasonable conclusion to arrive at, that something is 
 wrong about the loom, and the man who can go and read- 
 ily right that wrong, without making the loom go a great 
 deal worse before making it go better, is a man of good 
 judgment, and doubtless a good fixer. Some men go to 
 work on a loom as though it was all wrong from the 
 picking dog to the head motion ; just because it has stop- 
 
THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 101 
 
 ped several times. Now when a loom begins to stop, it is 
 useless to take the harness chain off to see if any of the 
 bars are crooked. The man of good judgment will not 
 move a bolt, or screw until he lias satisfied himself where 
 the trouble is, and then he quitely removes the cause of 
 the trouble, and the loom runs along as though nothing 
 had occurred ; while the impetuous man who would begin 
 at once moving the picking shoe forward, letting the tug- 
 strap down, and taking an inch or two out of the belt, 
 when he discovered the real cause of the trouble must go 
 and undo all that he has done, and by the time he is 
 through he finds the loom does'nt run as well as it did 
 before ; and no wonder. 
 
 I have known men who were good fixers in all respects 
 save one. Their looms were in good condition and run- 
 ning well. They knew when a loom ought to be fixed 
 and how. They were pleasant with the help. But a lack 
 of something , which can come under no other head than 
 neatness, was plainly visible. This may not be consid- 
 ered as essential in the qualifications for a fixer; but it 
 covers a large ground. It means more than cleanliness. 
 For instance, in passing along a section of looms which 
 is being run by such men, I have noticed that the har- 
 nesses were not hung exactly even, and that where the 
 middle hooks were, more warp would be on one side than 
 the other ; and a picker stick would be several inches too 
 long, running up past the shuttle box like a flag staff, 
 straps would be left with flapping ends, and many other 
 little things, which do not hinder the loom from running 
 
102 
 
 THE LOOM-FIXERS' MANUAL. 
 
 well, nor the cloth from being perfect, but have a bad 
 look, and shows that a little place somewhere in a fixer's 
 character has been left uncultivated. 
 
 In short, a loom-fixer should possess a symmetrical 
 character, and his qualifications should not fall short of 
 fitting him for the trying position he is to occupy ; for of 
 all the positions winch have fallen to the lot of man, since 
 man has fallen, this is the one which try men's souls. 
 ******* 
 
 A fixer should own a kit of tools, and keep them in a 
 good condition. Says one man on this subject: — “Let 
 me see a fixer using a monkey-wrench with the handle 
 gone, and a screw-driver with one corner of the point 
 gone, and a split handle, and the rest of his tools to cor- 
 respond, and I know about what condition his looms are 
 in.” A fixer should have three sizes of flat wrenches, 
 two sizes of monkey-wrenches, two screw-drivers, two 
 sizes of belt punches, and a good awl : a steel straight- 
 edge, and small spirit-level, a good pair of plyers, a large 
 and small hammer, including a nicely tempered key-set. 
 He may, of course add such other things as may come in 
 handy, but these tools should be of the best quality, 
 stamped with the owner's name, and then used properly, 
 and well taken care of. If a “carpenter is known by his 
 chips,” a fixer is certainly known by his tools. 
 
 TIIE END. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 

 
 
 
advice:! 
 
 There are few loom-fixers without the aspiration to 
 he Boss Weavers at least. Few who would hesitate 
 long enough if offered a shop, to make sure they poss- 
 essed the natural qualification, without which even the 
 best mechanic must fail if he aspires too high. 
 
 It is more honorable, easier and in the end more 
 profitable, to be a first-class loom-fixer than an indif- 
 ferent Overseer, Designer or Manager. But if you 
 are qualified to go higher, fit yourself thoroughly and 
 go ; for the want of really well qualified men is greater 
 and greater the higher you aim. 
 
 How should a loom-fixer fit himself for higher posi- 
 tions? First, aim only to be second-hand, do not try 
 to prepare yourself for a Super’s place until you are a 
 Super’s assistant, and then as before go slow and sure. 
 These smart people who go up so fast are seldom held 
 in their places by their own thoroughness. To be up 
 with the times, you must be a most persevering reader, 
 without a wide knowledge of what other men have 
 done and can do, you meet competition as a warrior 
 meets an enemy whose power he does not know. 
 
 Make sure that the implements you employ are not 
 surpassed in efficiency and durability, if you would 
 stand at the head of any class of workmen. It is 
 almost impossible to avoid a favorable impression of 
 a man who has the very best implements available 
 for his work, and knows how to take care of them. 
 
 A. & A. F. SPITZL1, Troy, N. Y., 
 the only dealers qualified and prepared to supply — 
 Optical & Mathematical Instruments , Technical and Scien- 
 tific Books and Journals , Design Books , Design Papers and 
 Sample Books, all kinds of Stationery, &c., &c. Properly 
 adapted to the various branches of the Textile Industry. 
 
OWI.ES. j L. J. KNOWLES & BROTHER, 
 
 OWLES. ) 57 Jackson Street, WORCESTER, MASS, 
 
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-A. TREATISE OTT 
 
 Designing l Weaving Plain and Fancy Woolen Cloths. 
 
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 CHAPTER I. The Art of Weaving. 
 
 “ II. Taste in the Selection and Designing of Patterns. 
 
 “ III. The Arrangement of Colors in Patterns. 
 
 “ IV. On “Picking-out ’ or Drafting from Sample. 
 
 “ V. On Weaving Plain Cloth. 
 
 “ VI. Double Pick and Basket Weaving. 
 
 “ VII The Weaving of Twills. 
 
 “ VIII. On the Weaving of Diagonal Cords. 
 
 “ IX The Weaving of Various Kinds of Ribs. 
 
 “ X Miscellaneous JT eaves. 
 
 “ XI. Combination of Weaves. 
 
 “ XII. Tables and Rules. 
 
 By A. A. BALD Il’/.V. Designer. 
 
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-THE- 
 
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 THE FOLLOWING RULES ARE MADE PLAIN. 
 
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 By A. A. BALDWIN , Designer. 
 
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 Tjfff^-Seut by mail on receipt of price. Address all orders to 
 
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