1^. 
 
 DUKE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 Treasure %gom 
 
1 
 
I 
 
 
 NEW-YORK 
 1 84^1 . 
 
THE 
 
 NAVAL APPRENTICE'S KEDGE ANCHOR 
 
 OR 
 
 YOUNG SAILOR S ASSISTANT. 
 
 DEDICATED TO JOHN GALLAGHER, Esq. 
 
 CAPTAIN UNITED STATES NAVY. 
 
 APFERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OP SEAMAN- 
 SHIP, RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING BLOCKS, PURCHASES, 
 RUNNING RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MAT- 
 TERS APPLICABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS. 
 
 WITH PLATES. 
 
 APPROVED, AND HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY A NUMBER OF OCR 
 MOST DISTINGUISHED NAVAL OFFICERS. 
 
 BY WILLIAM BRADY, BOATSWAIN, U. S. N. 
 
 XEW-YORK : 
 PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY FRYE & SHAW, 
 
 AT THEIR NAUTICAL SfORE, 222 WATER-STREET 
 
 484L 
 

 Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by 
 
 WILLIAM BRADY, 
 
 In the Clerk's office of the District Court of the Southern District 
 of New-York. 
 
 Vr^ i"<^3 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In offering the following work to the public, the 
 author deems no apology necessary, as it was written 
 for the use of the U. S. Naval Apprentices, as a ready 
 meians of introducing them to the theory of that art 
 by which they must expect to advance in the profes- 
 sion they have chosen. 
 
 He flatters himself, however, that it will be found 
 useful to any who intend to embrace the Sailor life, 
 and particularly to those destined for the Navy. 
 
 Should it fall into the hands of the learned, they 
 will bear in mind that he is better versed with the 
 marlingspike than the pen, and that it was composed 
 in the hours of relaxation from official duties. 
 
 He is not aware that there is any other work of this 
 kind, except those which are large and expensive ; 
 he therefore hopes this may be received for that which 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 it is intended to be, a Kedge Anchor for the youthful 
 sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspec- 
 tion of a number of experienced naval officers, who 
 have given it their decided approbation, and some of 
 whose names are appended to the work. 
 
 With these few relnarks he subniits it to a discern- 
 ing public, to stand or fall on its own merits. 
 
INDEX 
 
 1. 
 
 To knot 
 
 a Rope yarn. 
 
 2. 
 
 To make 
 
 1 a Fox. 
 
 3. 
 
 u 
 
 It 
 
 a Spanish Fox. 
 
 4. 
 
 u 
 
 tt 
 
 a Knitlle. 
 
 5. 
 
 u 
 
 tt 
 
 an Overhanded Knot. 
 
 6. 
 
 (( 
 
 tt 
 
 a Figure of 8 Knot. 
 
 7. 
 
 (t 
 
 tt 
 
 two Half Hitches. 
 
 8. 
 
 u 
 
 tt 
 
 a Reef or Square Knot. 
 
 9. 
 
 u 
 
 it 
 
 a Bowline Knot. 
 
 10. 
 
 (C 
 
 it 
 
 a Bowline on a Bight. 
 
 11. 
 
 t( 
 
 It 
 
 a Running Bowline. 
 
 12. 
 
 C( 
 
 ti 
 
 a Timber Hilch, 
 
 13. 
 
 It 
 
 it 
 
 a Fisherman's Bend; 
 
 14. 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 a Rolling Bend. 
 
 15. 
 
 u 
 
 tt 
 
 a Cavrick Bend. 
 
 16. 
 
 tt 
 
 tt 
 
 a Cats Paw. 
 
 17. 
 
 tt 
 
 c. 
 
 a Sheet or Becket Bend. 
 
 18. 
 
 It 
 
 ti 
 
 a Back Wall. 
 
 19. 
 
 tt 
 
 t( 
 
 a RolliHiT Hitch. 
 1* 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 20. 
 
 To 
 
 make 
 
 ■ a Selvage Strap. 
 
 21. 
 
 (( 
 
 11 
 
 a Pudding for a Mast or Yard. 
 
 22. 
 
 u 
 
 u 
 
 a Short Splice. 
 
 23. 
 
 u 
 
 li 
 
 a Long Splice. 
 
 24. 
 
 u 
 
 <( 
 
 an Eye Splice. 
 
 25. 
 
 li 
 
 u 
 
 a Cut Splice. 
 
 26. 
 
 (( 
 
 (( 
 
 a Flemish Eye. 
 
 27. 
 
 li 
 
 (( 
 
 an Artificial Eye. 
 
 28. 
 
 To 
 
 worm and serve a Rope. 
 
 29. 
 
 To 
 
 clap ( 
 
 on a Throat and (Quarter Seizing. 
 
 30. 
 
 To make 
 
 ) a Turk's Head. 
 
 31. 
 
 To 
 
 sheepshank a Rope or Backstay. 
 
 32. 
 
 To 
 
 put a 
 
 strand in a Rope. 
 
 33. 
 
 To Wall and Crown. 
 
 34. 
 
 To make 
 
 ! a Matthew Walker. 
 
 35. 
 
 (( 
 
 (C 
 
 a Spritsail Sheet Knot. 
 
 36. 
 
 li 
 
 11 
 
 a Shroud Knot. 
 
 37. 
 
 K 
 
 t. 
 
 a French Shroud Knot. 
 
 38. 
 
 ({ 
 
 u 
 
 a Single Diamond. 
 
 39. 
 
 11 
 
 It 
 
 a Double Diamond. 
 
 40. 
 
 H 
 
 .( 
 
 a Stopper Knot. 
 
 41. 
 
 (( 
 
 (( 
 
 a Buoy Rope Knot. 
 
 42. 
 
 (( 
 
 it 
 
 Common Sennit. 
 
 43. 
 
 11 
 
 it 
 
 a Sea Gasket. 
 
 44. 
 
 11 
 
 it 
 
 a Pauch or wrought Mat. 
 
 45. 
 
 it 
 
 ti 
 
 a Harbour Gasket, or French Se] 
 nit. 
 
 46. 
 
 Pointing 
 
 a Rope. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 47. 
 
 To make a Groinet. 
 
 48. 
 
 " pass a Rose Lashing. 
 
 49. 
 
 " weave a Sword Mat. 
 
 50. 
 
 " make a Lashing Cleat, 
 
 \ 
 
 BLOCKS. 
 
 51. 
 
 A Shell, Pin, and Sheave. 
 
 52. 
 
 '' Single Block. 
 
 53. 
 
 •• Double Block. 
 
 54. 
 
 " Treble Block. 
 
 5o. 
 
 " Shoulder Block. 
 
 56. 
 
 " Fiddle Block. 
 
 57. 
 
 " Shoe Block. 
 
 58. 
 
 " Sister Block. 
 
 59. 
 
 " Monkey Block. 
 
 60. 
 
 " Dead Eye. 
 
 61. 
 
 « Bull's Eye. 
 
 62. 
 
 , " Heart. 
 
 63. 
 
 " Belaying Pin Rack. 
 
 64. 
 
 " Euphroe. 
 
 65. 
 
 " Horn Cleat. 
 
 66. 
 
 *' Bee Cleat. 
 
 67. 
 
 " Strop for a Block. 
 
 68. 
 
 " Tail Block. 
 
 69. 
 
 <' Purchase Block. 
 
 70. 
 
 « Top Block. 
 
 71. 
 
 « Cat Block. 
 
 72. 
 
 " Snatch Block. 
 
8 CONTENTS. 
 
 73. A Nun Buoy. 
 
 74. To bend a Buoy Rope. 
 
 7o. " Puddinor the rino^ of an anchor. 
 
 76. " make a Jacob's Ladder. 
 
 77. Can Hooks. 
 
 78. Hogshead Slings. 
 
 79. Barrel Slings. 
 
 80. A Single Whip. 
 
 81. «•' Gun Tackle Purchase. 
 
 82. " Luff Tackle Purchase. 
 
 83. '' Top Burton. 
 64. Whip and Runner. 
 85. A Runner Tackle. 
 
 .86. «• Two-fold Purchase. 
 
 87. " Three- fold Purchase. 
 
 88. Names of Rope. 
 
 89. Rig Ship. To get Sheers on board. 
 
 90. To raise the Sheers. 
 
 9L " take in the Mizen Mast. 
 
 92. " " in Main and Foremast. 
 
 93. « " in the Bowsprit. 
 
 94. " rigf the Foremast. 
 
 95. " " Main and Mizen Mast. 
 
 96. " get the Top over. 
 
 97. " swifter in the Lower Rigging. 
 
 98. " set up Lower Rigging. 
 
 99. " get on board the Topmast. 
 100. " rig the Topmast. 
 
CONTENTS. y 
 
 101. To get on board and rig Jib-boom. 
 
 102. " swifter in Topmast Rigging. 
 
 103. " rig the Spritsail Yard. 
 
 104. " get on board, rig, and send aloft Royal 
 
 and Top-gallant Masts. 
 
 105. " get on board and rig flying Jib-boom. 
 
 106. " get on board and rig Topsail Yards. 
 
 107. " cross Topsail Yards. 
 
 108. '• get on board, and rig Lower Yards. 
 
 109. " get aloft the Lower Yards. 
 
 110. " get on board the Spanker Boom and Gaff. 
 
 111. " get on board and rig the Top-gallant 
 
 Yards. 
 
 112. " rig a lower Studding-sail Boom. 
 
 113. '^ rig a Topmast Studding-sail Boom. 
 
 114. " rig a Top-gallant Studding-sail Boorti. 
 
 115. " rig the Boat and Fish Davits. 
 
 116. " cut the Lower Rigging. 
 
 117. The Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging. 
 
 118. " Breast and Standing Back Stays. 
 
 119.. " Cat harpin legs and Futtock Shrouds. 
 
 120. To cut the Fore and Aft Stays. 
 
 121. *' cut the Runner Pendants. 
 
 122. Bob Stays. -i 
 
 123. To cut Bowsprit Shrouds. *-«■ 
 
 124. The Jib and flying Jib Guys. 
 
 125. " Running Rigging. 
 
 126. " Main and Main-spring Stays. 
 
10 CONTENTS. 
 
 127. The Mizen Stay. 
 
 128. " Fore-topmast, and Spring Stays. 
 
 129. " Jib Stay. 
 
 130. " Main Topmast Stay. 
 
 131. « Fore Top-gallant Stay. 
 
 132. Flying Jib Stay. 
 
 133. Main Top-gallant Stay. 
 
 134. Mizen Top-gallant Stay. 
 
 135. Fore Royal Stay. 
 
 136. Main Royal Stay. 
 
 137. Bob Stays. 
 
 138. Bowsprit Shrouds. 
 
 139. Jib Martingale Stays. 
 
 140. Flying Jib Martingale Stays. 
 
 141. Breast Back Stays. 
 
 142. Standing Backstays. 
 
 TO REEVE RUNNING RIGGING. 
 
 143. Lower Lifts. 
 
 144. To reeve duarter Lifts. 
 ^ 145. " " Topsail Lifts. 
 * 146. « " Reef Tackles. 
 
 147. " '' Top-gallant Lifts. 
 
 148. '-' " Royal Lifts. 
 
 149. " " Spritsail Lifts. 
 
 . 150. ^' " Lower Boom Topping Lifts. 
 151. '' " Topmast Studding-sail Boom Top- 
 ping Lifts. 
 
^]*^**, CONTENTS. 11 
 
 162. Spanker Boom Topping Lifts. 
 
 153. Fore Braces. 
 
 154. " Topsail Braces. 
 
 155. " Top-gallant Braces. 
 
 156. " Royal Braces. 
 
 157. Main Braces. 
 
 158. " Topsail Braces. 
 
 159. " Top-gallant Braces. 
 
 160. « Royal Braces. 
 
 161. Cross Jack Braces. 
 
 162. Mizen Topsail Braces. 
 
 163. " Top-gallant Braces. 
 
 164. " Royal Braces. 
 
 165. Spritsail Braces. 
 
 166. Topmast Studding-sail Boom Braces. 
 
 167. Fore Bowline. 
 
 168. " Top Bowline. 
 
 169. " Top-gallant Bowline. 
 
 170. « Royal Bowline. 
 
 171. Main Bowline. 
 
 172. « Top Bowline. 
 
 173. " Top-gallant Bowline. 
 
 174. " Royal Bowline. 
 
 175. Mizen Top Bowline. 
 
 176. " Top-gallant Bowlines. 
 
 177. " Royal Bowlines. 
 
 178. Fore Topmast Staysail Halliards. 
 
 179. Jib Halliards. 
 
12 CONTENTS. 
 
 180. Flying Jib Halliards. 
 
 181. Fore Topsail Halliards. 
 
 182. Main Topsail Halliards. 
 
 183. Mizen Topsail Halliards. 
 
 184. Fore Top-gallant Halliards. 
 
 185. Main Top-gallant Halliards. 
 
 186. Mizen Top-gallant Halliards. 
 
 187. Fore, Main, and Mizen Royal Halliards. 
 
 188. Main Topmast Staysail Halliards. 
 
 189. Mizen Staysail Halliards. 
 
 190. Gaff, Throat Halliards. 
 
 191. " Peak Halliards. 
 
 192. Lower Studding-sail Halliards. 
 
 193. Topmast •« « 
 
 194. Fore Topmast Staysail Downhaul. 
 
 195. Jib Downhaul. 
 
 196. Flying Jib Downhaul. 
 
 197. Topsail Downhaul. 
 
 198. Main Topmast Staysail Downhaul. 
 
 199. Mizen Staysail Downhaul. 
 
 200. Topmast Studding-sail Downhaul. 
 
 201. Top-gallant Studding sail Downhaul. 
 
 202. Royal Studding-sail Downhaul. 
 
 203. Main Tack. 
 
 204. Jib and Fore Topmast Staysail Tacks. 
 
 205. Spanker l\ick. 
 
 206. Topmast, Top-gallant, and Royal Studding- 
 
 sail Tacks. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 13 
 
 207. Main Topmast Staysail Tack. 
 
 208. Lower Studding-sail Outhauls. 
 
 209. Spanker Outhaul. 
 
 210. Fore and Main Sheets. 
 
 211. Topsail Sheets. 
 
 212. Top-gallant and Royal Sheets. 
 
 213. Fore Topmast Staysail and Jib Sheets. 
 
 214. Flying Jib Sheets. 
 
 215. Mizen Staysail Sheet. 
 
 216. Spanker Sheet. 
 
 217. Lower Studding-sail Sheets. 
 
 218. Topmast Studding-sail Sheets. 
 
 219. Top-gallant and Royal Studding-sail Sheets. 
 
 220. Clue Garnets. 
 
 221. Topsail and Top-gallant Clew Lines. 
 
 222. Royal Clew Lines. 
 
 223. Lower Studding-sail Clew Lines. 
 
 224. Fore and Main Bunt Lines. 
 
 225. Topsail Bunt Lines. 
 
 226. Top-gallant Bunt Lines. 
 
 227. Leech Lines. 
 
 228. « « 
 
 229. After Leech Lines. 
 
 230. Spanker Brails. 
 '231. Trysail Brails. 
 
 232. Main Topmast Staysail Brails. 
 
 233. Jib Brails. 
 
 234. Jib and Flying Jib Guys. 
 
14 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 235. Lower Boom Guys. 
 
 236. « « after Guys. 
 
 237. Spanker Boom Guys. 
 
 238. Storm Staysail Gear. 
 
 239. Staysail Jack Stays. 
 
 240. Staysail Downhaul Blocks. 
 
 241. Stow, Hold, and Spirit Room. 
 
 242. Stow the Casks. 
 
 243. " Naval Stores. 
 
 244. Get on board Cables. 
 
 245. Chain Cables. 
 
 246. Get an anchor on board. 
 
 247. Bend Cables. 
 
 248. Range and Stopper a Cable. 
 
 249. Stoppers and Nippers. 
 
 250. Trip Stopper. 
 
 251. Deck « 
 
 252. Ring " 
 
 253. Bitt '' 
 
 254. Dog « 
 
 255. Compressor or Combing Stopper. 
 
 256. Nippers. 
 
 257. To pass Nippers. 
 
 258. " splice Cables. 
 
 259. Cut and pass Messenger. 
 
 260. Dip Messenger. 
 
 261. Get Guns on Board. 
 
 262. Ship and Unship a Rudder. 
 
CONTENTS. 15 
 
 263. Bend Sails. 
 
 264. « Flying Jib, Jib and Fore Topmast Stay. 
 
 sail. 
 
 265. To carry out an Anchor. 
 
 266. " Haul Off and Moor Ship. 
 
 267. Getting in Spare Spars. 
 
 268. Station the Crew. 
 
 269. '• '' " at (Quarters. 
 
 270. " " " " " 
 
 271. " *' •' Mooring and .Unmooring. 
 
 272. " " " Loosing and Furling. 
 
 273. " " '' Tacking and Veering. 
 
 274. « " " Reefing. 
 
 275. Mark a Lead Line. 
 
 276. " a Log " 
 
 277. Clear Hawse. 
 
 278. " « 
 
 279. Weigh an Anchor with the Launch. 
 
 280. " " *« by the Buoy Rope. 
 
 281. To take in a Launch. 
 
 282. " " in Boats, both sides at once. 
 
 283. Unmoor Ship. 
 
 284. " when the Messenger strands, or is 
 
 likely to part. 
 
 285. " leeward tide, to get Under Way and 
 
 stand out on a Wind. 
 
 286. To get Under Way and stand before the 
 
 Wind. 
 
16 CONTENTS. 
 
 287. In getting Under Way, back astern to avoid 
 
 Danger. 
 
 288 Getting Under Way, a Shoal on each Beam. 
 
 289. Get Under Way. at Anchor in a Narrow 
 
 Channel. 
 
 290. Head to Wind, Cast on the Larboard Tack. 
 
 291. Windward tide, get Under Way and Stand 
 
 before the AVind. 
 
 252. To get Under Way and Stand out on a Wind. 
 
 293. " get Under Way, head to tide and Wind 
 
 on Starboard Quarter. 
 
 294. To get underway, wind across the tide. 
 
 295. " " " Flood Tide. 
 
 296. Back and fill in a Tideway. 
 
 297. Drive before the Wind. 
 
 298. Drive Broadside too. 
 
 299. Secure the Ship for Sea. 
 
 300. Stow Anchors for Sea. 
 
 301. Make Sail when getting under way. 
 
 302. To set Top-gallant Sails, blowing fresh. 
 
 303. " Courses, moderate weather. 
 
 304. " " blowing fresh: 
 
 305. " Spanker. 
 
 306. " Jib. 
 
 307. A Man Overboard, by the Wind. 
 
 308. Set Lower Studding Sails. 
 
 309. Take in Top-gallant Sails. 
 
 310. " Top Mast Studding Sails. 
 
CONTENTS. IT 
 
 311. Reef Top Sails and Courses. 
 
 312. Reef Top Sails in Stays. 
 
 313. Part a Weather Top Sail brace in reefing. 
 
 314. « Top Sail Yard Parel. 
 
 315. To take in close reefed Top Sail. 
 
 316. " a Course. 
 
 317. " a Spanker. 
 
 318. « a Jib. 
 
 319. Set a close reefed Top-saiL 
 
 320. Jib Splits. 
 
 321. Close reefed Top-sail Splits. 
 
 322. Course Splits. 
 
 323. Bend a New Course before the Old One is 
 
 unbent. 
 
 324. Secure Guns for a Gale. 
 
 325. Breeching bolts begin to draw. 
 
 326. A Gun adrift. 
 
 327. Send down Top-gallant Yards. 
 
 328. House Top-gallant Masts. 
 
 329. On a Lee Shore, Jib Courses and Spanker 
 
 under Top-gallant Sails. 
 
 330. Tacking under double reefed Top-sails. 
 
 331. To Clubhaul, Missing Stays. 
 
 332. On a Lee Shore to reduce Sail. 
 
 333. A Ship on Shore, what to do. 
 
 334. Precautions for Scudding. 
 
 335. Broaching too. 
 
 336. Brought by the Lee. 
 
 I 
 
18 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 337. To heave too. 
 
 338. To veer under close reefed Top-sails and 
 
 Stay-sails. 
 
 339. To veer under Main-sail. 
 
 340. « « Bare Poles. 
 
 341. Cut away a Mast. 
 
 342. Laying too ynder lower Stay-sails, veer Ship. 
 
 343. Lying too, a Sail is discovered ahead, and 
 
 close aboard. 
 
 344. Fore-mast carried away. 
 
 345. Rig a Jury-mast. 
 
 346. Main-mast carried away. 
 
 347. Bowsprit carried away. 
 
 348. Top-mast carried away. 
 
 349. Jib boom carried away. 
 
 350. Fore-mast and Bowsprit carried away. 
 451 . Bowsprit sprung. 
 
 352. Fore-mast sprung. 
 
 353. Top-mast sprung. 
 
 354. To send aloft a Top-mast in a heavy head sea. 
 
 355. Gammoning carried away. 
 
 356. Lower cap splits. 
 
 357. Trussle trees sprung. 
 
 358. Lower Yard carried away. 
 
 359. Top-sail Yard carried away. 
 
 360. Ship Leaks. 
 
 361. Pumps Choked. 
 
 362. Shot gets loose in a Gun in a Gale. 
 
CONTENTS. 19 
 
 363. Throw a Lower Deck Gun overboard. 
 
 364. Turn out Reefs. 
 
 365. Rudder carried away. 
 
 366. Ship on Fire. 
 
 367. " " Beam ends. 
 
 368. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a squall. 
 
 369. Struck by a squall on a Lee Shore. 
 
 370. " " " under Top-sails, and 
 Courses. 
 
 371. Part weather Main-top-sail braces. 
 
 372. •' Jib down haul. 
 
 373. To chase. 
 
 374. " " to windward. 
 
 375. Observations for the Ship to windward. 
 
 376. Chase to Leeward. 
 
 377. To windward of an enemy Main rigging 
 
 shot away. 
 
 378. Wind on the 'quarter bring by under double 
 
 reefed Top-sails. 
 
 379. Wind on the quarter, all sail set, bring too 
 
 on the other tack under double reefed Top- 
 sails. 
 
 380. Get the Anchor off the bows. 
 
 381. To Anchor head to Wind. 
 
 382. " ''- on a Lee Shore. 
 
 383. Scudding under Fore-sail to come to an an- 
 
 chor. 
 
 384. To make a Flying Moor. 
 
20 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 385. To Moor with a long Scope. 
 
 386. Blowing Fresh, in Port. 
 
 387. Send down lower Yards. 
 
 388. House Top-masts. 
 
 389. Back a Bower by a Stream. 
 
 390. Sweep for an Anchor. 
 
 391. Explanation of Sea Terms. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 
 
 1. Boatswain. 
 
 2. Squaring Yards. — Hints. 
 
 3. Turning the hands up. — Hints. 
 
 4. Inspection, morning and Evening. 
 
 5. '* of Stowed Anchors. 
 
 6. Setting up Rigging at Sea. 
 
 7. Inspection of Boats. 
 
 8. Slacking the Jib Stay in bad weather. 
 
 9. Clearing for Action. 
 
 10. Caution in getting in the Bowsprit. 
 
 11. Stopping out Top-gallant Yard Rope. 
 
 12. Preventer Braces. 
 
 13. Reeveing Running Rigging. 
 
 14. Topsail Tyes. 
 
 15. Blacking the Rigging. 
 
 16. Top-gallant Mast Rope. 
 17* Fore and Main Buntlines. 
 
 18. Futtock Shrouds-. 
 
 19. Tops and Half Tops. 
 
CONTENTS. 21 
 
 20. Striking Topmasts. 
 
 21. Swaying up Topmasts. 
 
 22. Unmooring. 
 
 23. Reef Lines to the Topsail. 
 
 24. Reefing Courses. 
 
 25. Top-gallant Mast Struck. 
 
 26. Keeping a Clear Anchor. 
 
 27. Anchor' Turning in the Ground. 
 
 28. To tend a Weather Tide. 
 29- A Man Overboard. 
 
 30. Hailing Aloft. 
 
 31. Jib Stay and Halyards. 
 
 32. Proportions for Cables. 
 
 33. " " Anchor. 
 
 34. What length is necessary to form a Clinch. 
 
 35. To splice an old Cable to a new one. 
 
 36. " send up Top-gallant Yards. 
 
 37. " keep the Hawse clean when moored. 
 
 38. " tend to Windward, Single Anchor. 
 
 39. " " " Leeward. 
 
 40. " back the Ship. 
 
 41. " break the Sheer. 
 
 42. « strip Ship. 
 
 43. Gammoning the Bowsprit. ^ 
 
 44. A Table, shewing the length of the first warp fM 
 
 of Standing Rigging. 
 
 45. A Cordage Table of Feet and Fathoms. 
 
 46. Continued. 
 
22 CONTENTS. 
 
 47. Weight of Cables, 1 20 Fathoms, from 3 to 24 
 
 inches.' 
 
 48. How many Fathoms make 112 pounds. 
 
 49. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, 
 
 length of Spars. 
 
 50. Thickness of Spars. 
 51; Yards. 
 
 52. Distance for Lower Masts: 
 
 53. Breadth of Tops. 
 
 54. Rule for placing Masts in a Ship. 
 
 55. To find the Tonnage of a ship by U. S. mea- 
 
 surement. 
 
 56. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts. 
 
 57. Method of an Estimate of Standing and Run- 
 
 ning Rigging required for the outfit 
 of a 44 gun Frigate. 
 
 58. Shroud laid Cordage. 
 
 59. 44 Gun Frigate continued. 
 
 60. " continued. 
 
 61. Fore Rigging to be in Warps by pairs. 
 
 62. Main Shrouds in Warps by pairs. 
 
 63. Mizen Rigging to be in one Warp. 
 
 64. 44 Gun Ship continued. 
 
 65. Estimate of the Standing and Running Rig- 
 
 ging required for the outfit of a 
 Sloop of War of the First Class, 
 mounting 22 guns. 
 
 66. Running Rigging Shroud laid. 
 
CONTENTS. 23 
 
 67. Dimensions of the Standing and Running 
 
 Rigging of a Ship of the Line of the 
 U. S. Navy. 
 
 68. An Estimate of the size and quantity of 
 
 Blocks required to fit out a Ship of 
 the Line. 
 
 69. Miscellaneous Articles. 
 
 70. Anchors. 
 
 71. Distance from the Spar Deck of the U. S. 
 
 Ship North Carolina. 
 
 72. Dimensions of the Masts, Spars, (fee. 
 
 73. « ofaFirst Class Frigate. 
 
 74. Scale of the weights of Cables, Anchors, and 
 
 Hawsers, &c. 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 75. For Blacking ships Standing Rigging. 
 
 76. " " Guns. 
 
 77. " " Hammock Cloths. 
 
 78. " making Liquid Blacking. 
 
 79. " Blacking Guns. 
 
 80. Composition for Blacking Guns. 
 
 81. For making Black Varnish. 
 
 82. Composition for Blacking Hammock Cloths. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 83. Do. No. 2. 
 
 84. Do. No. 3; 
 
 85. Do. No. 4. 
 
24 CONTENTS. 
 
 86. Composition for making Black Varnish. 
 
 87. Solder for Tin. 
 
 88. " '' Lead. 
 
 89. To make the best Drying Oil. 
 
 90. For making Black Stain. 
 
 « 
 
I^ECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 Examined and approved, as a very useful book 
 for young officers and others in the navy. 
 John Gallagher, 
 
 Captain U. S. Navy. 
 
 I fully concur in the above. 
 
 E. Peck, 
 
 Lieut. U. S Navy. 
 
 I have examined the within treatise on seaman- 
 ship, and other miscellaneous matter appertaining to 
 ships, and vessels of war, (written by William Brady, 
 Boatswain U. S. Navy.) It affords ma ^much plea- 
 sure to recommend the same to the junior officers of 
 the navy, and others, who may be disposed to learn 
 the profession of seamanship. 
 
 W. C, Wetmore, 
 
 Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
 
 3 
 
26 RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 Examined and approved as a work that will be 
 useful to the service. 
 
 J. D. L. Saunders, 
 
 Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
 J. Matt I SON, 
 
 Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
 
 I have carefully examined the within work on sea- 
 manship, and think it one well calculated for the in- 
 struction of young officers. 
 
 C. G. Hunter, 
 
 Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
 
 I have closely examined the within work, and 
 think it one w^ell calculated for the instruction of the 
 young officers, and others in the navy. 
 
 James Renshaw, 
 
 Capt. U. S. Nayyi 
 
 I fully concur in tlie above. 
 
 Francis O. Ellison, 
 
 Master U. S. Navy. 
 
 This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well 
 calculated to be useful to the service. 
 Joshua R. Sands, 
 
 Commander U. S. Navy. 
 
KEDGE ANCHOR 
 
 We shall first commence with knotting a ro^e 
 yarn. . * 
 
 1. To Knot a Rope Yam. 
 
 To knot a rope yarn, you first take the two ends of 
 your yarns, and split them open about two inches 
 from the end, and if to make a smooth knot, you may 
 scrape down a little with your knife, so as to make the 
 ends lay smooth, you then crutch them together as 
 you see in the plate No. 1, you then take two opposite 
 ends leaving the other two vacant, taking one end 
 over and the other under the standing part of the 
 yarn, and connecting them together at the same side 
 you took them from at first, then jam your knot taut 
 to see if it will stand test, by stretching the yarn from 
 
28 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 knee to knee, and hauling on it, and if the knot stands 
 without drawing, you may trim your ends, and go on. 
 
 2. To make a Fox, 
 
 Take two or three rope yarns and make them fast 
 to a belaying pin, and stretch them out taut, twist 
 them together on your knee, then rub it down smooth 
 with a piece of old tarred parcelling. This is called a 
 fox and is used for many purposes, such as making 
 gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bending stud- 
 ding sails, (fee. 
 
 3. To make a Spanish Fox, 
 
 Take a single rope yarn and make one end fast to 
 a belaying pin as before, and untwist and twist it up 
 again the contrary way, and rub it smooth ; this is 
 used for small seizings, <fec. 
 
 4. To make a Knittle. 
 
 A knittle is made of two or three rope yarns laid 
 up together by hand, twisting them in your finger 
 and thumb, and laying them up against the twist of 
 the yarii, they are used for many purposes on board 
 a ship, and particularly for hammock clews. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 29 
 
 5. Overhanded Knot. 
 
 To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of 
 a rope over the standing part and through the bight. 
 
 6. Figure of Eight Knots. 
 
 Take the end of your rope round the standing part, 
 under its own part and through the lower bight, and 
 your knot is made. 
 
 7. Two Half Hitches. 
 
 Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, 
 and bring it up through the bight, this is one half 
 hitch, two of these, one above the other, and it is 
 made. 
 
 8. Reef or Square Knot. 
 
 First make an overhanded knot round a yard^ or 
 spar, or anything you please, then bring the end being 
 next to you over the left hand and through the bight, 
 and haul both ends taut and it is made. 
 
30 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 9. A Bowline Knot. 
 
 Take the end of your rope in your right hand, and 
 the standing part in the left hand, then lay the end 
 over the standing part, then with your left hand turn 
 the bight of the standing part over the end part, so 
 as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part, then 
 lead your end round the standing part above, and 
 stick it down through the cuckolds neck, and it will 
 appear as in the plate» 
 
 10. Bowline on the Bight. 
 
 Take the bight of your rope in your right hand, 
 and the standing part in the other, throw a cuckolds 
 neck over the bight with the standing parts, then 
 haul enough of your bight up through the cuckolds 
 neck to go under and over all parts, and jam all taut, 
 and it will appear as in the plate. 
 
 11. A Running Bowline. 
 
 Take the end of your rope round the standing part 
 and through the bight, and make a single bowline 
 upon the running part, and your knot is made. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 31 
 
 12. A Timber Hitch. 
 
 Take the end of your rope round a spar, and pass 
 it under and over the standing part, then pass several 
 turns round its own part and it is done. 
 
 13. A FishermarCs Bend. 
 
 With the end of a rope take two round turns round 
 a spar, or through the ring of a kedge anchor, then 
 take one half hitch around the standing part and un- 
 der all parts of your turns, then one half hitch around 
 the standing part above all, and stop the end to the 
 standing part ; or you can dispense with the last half 
 hitch, and tuck your end under one of the round turns 
 and it becomes a studding-sail bend. 
 
 14. A Rolling Bend. 
 
 A rolling bend is something similar to fisherman's 
 bend, it is two round turns round a spar as you see 
 in the plate, two half hitches around the standing 
 part, and the end stopped back. {See plate.) 
 
 15. A Carrick Bend, 
 This bend is more used in bending hawsers to- 
 
32 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 gether, more than any thing else. In forming this 
 bend you will take the end of your hawser and form 
 a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the 
 standing part, so as to form a cross, then take the 
 end of the other hawser, and reeve it down 
 through this bight and up and over this cross, then 
 tuck the end down through the bight again on the 
 opposite side, from the other end, for one end must 
 be on the top, and the other underneath as you see 
 in the plate. 
 
 tO^ If both end parts come out on the top it will 
 be a granney's knot. Remember this. 
 
 16. A Cats Paw. 
 This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to 
 hook a tackle to in setting up rigging, to form it, you 
 first lay the end part of your lanyard across the 
 standing part which will form a bight, then lay hold 
 of the bight with one hand on each side of it, break- 
 ing it down and turning it over from you two or 
 three times, then clap both bights together and hook 
 on to both parts. {JSee Plate.) 
 
 17. A Sheet or BecJcet Bend, 
 Pass the end of your rope through the bight of 
 
33 
 
 another rope, or through the becket of a block, then 
 round both parts of the bight or becket, and take the 
 end under its own part, as you see m the plate. Some 
 people put it under twice and stop the end back to 
 the standing part. 
 
 IS. A Back Wall, 
 
 This is used with a lanyard in setting up rigging 
 to hook a luff tackle to, instead of a cats paw, where 
 the end of your lanyard is not long enough to form 
 a paw, but a strap and toggle is preferable to both, 
 to make a back- wall over a hook, you form a bight 
 or rather a kink with the end of your lanyard, hav- 
 ing the end part underneath, and the standing part 
 on the top, then stick the hook through the bight, 
 keeping the bight well up on the beck of the hook, 
 as you see in the plate, until you set taut your tackle. 
 Note. You can learn it better by practice than 
 explanation. 
 
 19. A Rolling Hitch. 
 
 With the end of a rope take a half hitch round 
 the standing part, then take another through the 
 same bight, jambing it in above the first hitch and 
 the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and 
 
34 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 dog your end above your hitch, around the standing 
 part, or you may take a half hitch around the stand- 
 ing part, and stop your end back with a yarn. 
 
 20. A Selvage Strap, 
 
 To make a Selvage strap you may get a couple 
 of spike nails, and drive into an old piece of plank 
 or whatever you can find convenient to answer the 
 purpose, or you can take two hooks if you can get 
 them, and lash them to any convenient place as far 
 apart as the length you intend to make your strap, 
 then take the end of your ball of rope yarns, and 
 make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take 
 it around the other one, and keep passing round and 
 round, and hauling every turn taut as you pass it, 
 until it is as stout as you wish it to be, if it is to be a 
 very large strap, marl it down with stout spurn yarn, 
 if middling size, two single rope yarns, if a small 
 strap, a single rope yarn. 
 
 21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard. 
 
 Take a piece of rope the length you require, and 
 splice an eye in each end, then get it on a stretch 
 and worm it, then parcel it according to the shape 
 you want it. They are generally made as you see 
 
I<i 
 
34 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 dog your end above your hitch, around the standing 
 part, or you may take a half hitch around the stand- 
 ing part, and stop your end back with a yarn. 
 
 20. A Selvage Straj). 
 
 To make a Selvage strap you may get a couple 
 of spike nails, and drive into an old piece of plank 
 or whatever you can find convenient to answer the 
 purpose, or you can take two hooks if you can get 
 them, and lash them to any convenient place as far 
 apart as the length you intend to make your strap, 
 then take the end of your ball of rope yarns, and 
 make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take 
 it around the other one, and keep passing round and 
 round, and hauling every turn taut as you pass it, 
 until it is as stout as you wish it to be, if it is to be a 
 very large strap, marl it down with stout spurn yarn, 
 if middling size, two single rope yarns, if a small 
 strap, a single rope yarn. 
 
 21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard. 
 
 Take a piece of rope the length you require, and 
 splice an eye in each end, then get it on a stretch 
 and worm it, then parcel it according to the shape 
 you want it. They are generally made as you see 
 
TCTID'EriTf t^ , 351R1TX)j1:H"(B-, MiZZ(CM)CTi?r & 
 
 ji'r^LTJs 
 
 O.l^Met-i^Mitk 
 
34 
 
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 pa 
 
 of 
 
 or 
 
 pu 
 
 th( 
 
 ap; 
 
 th( 
 
 m£ 
 
 it! 
 
 roi 
 
 un 
 
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35 
 
 in the plate, large in the middle, and taper gradually 
 towards the ends, and made flat on the side that 
 goes next to the mast or yard, when you have got it 
 the size you wish, marl it down, beginning in the 
 middle and marling both ways, until you come to the 
 eye, if it is for a yard it is generally covered with 
 thick leather or green hide, if for a mast, it is pointed 
 over for neatness. 
 
 22. A Short Splice. 
 
 To splice the two ends of a rope together, you 
 first unlay your rope to a convenient length, then, 
 crutch them together as you see in the plate, then 
 you must lay hold of the three strands next to you 
 in your left hand, holding them solid around the 
 other part till you stick your three upper ends, 
 or if it is a large rope, you may stop your ends with 
 a yarn, then take the upper or middle end, and pass 
 it over the first strand next to it, and then stick it un- 
 derneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the 
 lay of the rope, then turn your rope a little to you, 
 and stick your second end as you did your first, and 
 your third in the same manner, hauling them taut 
 along the lay, then turn your rope round, and stick 
 the other three ends in the same way, and it will ap- 
 pear as in the plate. 
 
36 
 
 Note. If you intend to serve over your ends, you 
 need not stick them but once, but if not you must 
 stick them twice and cross whip them across the 
 s trands, so as to make them more secure. If you in- 
 tend to serve over your ends, you must take a few 
 of your underneath yarns, enough to fill up the lay 
 of your rope for worming, then scrape or trim your 
 outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving. 
 
 23. A Long splice. 
 
 To make a long splice unlay the end of two ropes 
 to a convenient distance, then crutch them together 
 the same as a short splice, then unlay one strand for 
 a considerable length, and fill up the space which it 
 leaves, with the opposite strand next to it, then slew 
 your rope round, and lay hold of the two next strands 
 that will come opposite their respective lays, then 
 unlay one and fill up with the other as before, then 
 cut ojff your long strands, square with the short 
 strands, and it will appear as in the plate. To com- 
 plete this splice, you will split the strands equally 
 in two, then take the two opposite half strands and 
 knot them together, so as to fill up the vacant lay, 
 then you stick your ends twice under two strands 
 with all six of your half strands, leaving the other 
 six neutral, then stretch your splice well before you 
 cut your ends oif and it is finished. 
 
37 
 
 24. Eye Splice. 
 
 Is made by opening the end of a rope and laying 
 the strands at any distance upon the standing part 
 of the rope, according to the size you intend to 
 make your eye splice, you then divide your strands 
 by putting one sti;and on the top and one under- 
 neath the standing part, then take your middle 
 strand, having previously opened the lay with a 
 marlinespike, and stick it under its respective strand 
 as you see in the plate ; your next end is taken over 
 the first strand and under the second, and the third 
 and last end is taken through the third strand on the 
 other side. 
 
 25. A Cut Splice, 
 
 Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you 
 intend to make your splice or collar, lay the end of 
 one rope on the standing part of the other, and stick 
 the end through between the strands the same as an 
 eye splice, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms 
 a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pen- 
 dants, jib-guys, breast-back stays, odd shrouds, <fec. 
 
 26. ^ Flemish Eye. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope, then open the strands 
 4 
 
38 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 and separate every yarn, then divide them in two 
 halves, then take a piece of round wood, the size you 
 intend to make your eye, and half knot about one 
 half of your inside yarns over the piece of wood as 
 you see in the plate, scrape the remainder down 
 over the others, and marl, parcel and serve, or hitch 
 it with hamberline, if you choose; this makes a snug 
 eye for the collars of stays. 
 
 27. An Artificial Eye. 
 
 Take the end of a rope, and unlay one strand to 
 a certain distance, and form the eye by placing the 
 two strands along the standing part of the rope and 
 stopping them fast to it, then take the odd strand and 
 cross it over the standing part, and lay it into the 
 vacant place you took it from at first, work around 
 the eye, filling up the vacant strand until it comes 
 out at the crutch again, and lies under the other 
 two strands ; the ends are tapered and scraped 
 down, marled and served over with spun yarn. 
 
 28. To worm and serve a rope. 
 
 Worming a rope is to fill up the vacant space be- 
 tween the strands of the rope with spur; yarn, this 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. : 39 
 
 is done in order to strengthen it, and to render the 
 surface smooth and round for parcelling. 
 
 Parcelling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, 
 cut in strips from two to three inches wide according 
 to the size of the rope, the strips of canvass to be 
 well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you com- 
 mence to lay it on the rope, the service is of spun 
 yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you 
 see in the plate, called a serving mallet, it has got ^ 
 large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on 
 the rope and a round handle about a foot long, or 
 according to the size of the mallet ; the service is al- 
 ways laid on against the lay of the rope, a boy passes 
 the ball of spun yarn at some distance from the man 
 that is serving the rope, and passes it round as he 
 turns the mallet, when he has put the required length 
 of service, the end is put through under the three or 
 four last turns of the service and hauled taut. 
 
 Note. It has always been customary to put par- 
 celling on with the lay of the rope in all cases. But 
 rigging that you do not intend to serve over, the 
 parcelling ought to be put on ihe contrary way. 
 
 29. To clap on a Throat and quarter seizing. 
 
 Splice an eye in the end of the seizing, and take 
 the other end round both parts of the rope that you 
 
40 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 intend to put it on to, then reeve it through the eye, 
 pass a couple of turns, and heave them hand taut, 
 then make a marline-spike hitch on the seizing. By 
 taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike 
 and laying the end part over the standing part, and 
 then pushing the marlinespike down through, then 
 under the standing part, and up through the bite 
 again, h^ave those two turns taut, with the spike, 
 pass the rest and heave them taut in the same man- 
 ner, making 6, 8, or ten turns according to the size 
 of the rope, then push the end through the last turn, 
 then pass the riding turns, 5, 7, or 9, always laying 
 one less of the riding turns, than of the first turns ; 
 these ar3 not to be hove too taut, the end is now 
 pushed up through the seizing, and two cross turns 
 are taken between the two parts of the rope, and 
 round the seizing, taking the end under the last 
 turn, and hove well taut, and an overhanded knot 
 clapped on the end of the seizing, and cut off close 
 to the knot. 
 
 Note. When this is clapped on the end of a rope, 
 and round the standing part, it is called an end seiz- 
 ing, if on the two parts, below the end, a middle or 
 quarter seizing ; a throat seizing is passed the same 
 way, hut is not crossed with the end of the seizing. 
 
 30. To make a TurWs head. 
 Turk's heads are made on man ropes and some- 
 
TC foTT 
 
 O 'WZi^^'-'Li^- 
 
40 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 intend to put it on to, then reeve it through the eye, 
 pass a couple of turns, and heave them hand taut, 
 then make a marline-spike hitch on the seizing. By 
 taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike 
 aiid laying the end part over the standing part, and 
 then pushing the marlinespike down through, then 
 under the standing part, and up through the bite 
 again, hoave those two turns taut, with the spike, 
 pass the rest and heave them taut in tlie same man- 
 ner, making 6, 8, or ten turns according to the size 
 of the rope, then push the end through the last turn, 
 then pass the riding turns, 5, 7, or 9, always laying 
 one less of the riding turns, than of the first turns; 
 these ar3 not to be hov^e too taut, the end is now 
 pushed up through the seizing, and two cross turns 
 are taken between the two parts of the rope, and 
 round the seizing, taking the end under the last 
 turn, and hove well taut, and an overhanded knot 
 clapped on the end of the seizing, and cut oif close 
 to the knot. 
 
 Note. When this is clapped on the end of a rope, 
 and round the standing part, it is called an end seiz- 
 ing, if on the two parts, below the end, a middle or 
 quarter seizing ; a throat seizing is passed the same 
 way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing. 
 
 30. To make a Turk^s head. 
 Turk's heads are made on man ropes and some- 
 
.'3.rajH'ir^^& ^^ 
 
 l^JjATJ-: JI. 
 
41 
 
 times on the footropes of jibbooms in the place of an 
 overhanded knot, as the Turk's head is much neater 
 than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. 
 It is generally made of small white line. Take a 
 clove hitch with the line round the rope you intend 
 to make the Turk's head on, then cross the bights on 
 each side of the clove hitch, and stick one end un- 
 der one cross, and the other end under the other 
 cross, and it will be formed like the middle figure in 
 the plate, after which follow the lead until it show 
 three parts all round, and it will be done. 
 
 31. To Sheepshank a rope or Backstay. 
 
 It is made for shortening a backstay, the rope is 
 doubled in three parts as you see in the plate, and a 
 hitch taken over each bight with the standing part 
 of the Backstay, and jambed taut. , 
 
 32. To put a strand in a rope. 
 
 This is done in case of one strand of a rope get- 
 ting chafed or magged, and the other two remaining 
 good. To perform this, you take your knife and cut 
 the strand in the place where it is chafed, and unlay 
 
 it about a couple of feet each way, then take a 
 4* 
 
42 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 strand of a rope as near the size as you can get, and 
 lay it in the vacancy of your rope as you see in the 
 plate, and stick your ends the same* as a long splice. 
 
 33. To Wall and Crown. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three 
 strands form a wall knot, by taking the first strand 
 and forming a bight, then take the next strand, and 
 bring it round the end of the first, and the third 
 strand round the second, and up through the bight 
 of the first, this is a wall as you see in the plate. 
 To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, 
 which call the first, then lay the second over it and 
 the third over the second, and through the bight of 
 the first and it will appear as you see in the plate. 
 
 34. To make a Matthew Walker. 
 
 Is made by opening the strands of a rope and tak- 
 ing the first strand round the rope and through its 
 own bight, then take the second end round the rope 
 underneath, through the bite of the first, and through 
 its own bight, and the third end take round the saine 
 way, underneath and throuo^h the bights of all three, 
 haul your ends well taut and it will appear as in the 
 plate ; this is a good lanyard knot if well made. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 43 
 
 35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot. 
 
 Unlay two ends of a rope and place the two parts 
 which were unlaid, together, form a bight with one 
 strand, and wall the six together against the lay of 
 the rope, which is hawser laid, the same as you would 
 a single wall with three ends, after you have walled 
 with six ends, haul them taut, and then you must 
 crown with the six ends and it will appear as in the 
 plate ; to complete it you must follow the lead of the 
 parts, and double wall and crown it and it is done. 
 This is often used for a stopper knot in old fashion- 
 ed ships. 
 
 36. A Shroud Knot, 
 
 Unlay the ends of two ropes, placing them one 
 within the other, the same as you commence to 
 make a short splice, then single wall the ends of one 
 rope round the standing part of the other, then wall 
 the other three ends the same way, the ends are 
 opened out and tapered down and served over with 
 spun yarn ; this knot is used when a shroud is either 
 shot or carried away. 
 
 37. A French Shroud Knot. 
 Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing 
 
44 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 them close together, then lay your first three ends 
 back upon their own part, and single wall the other 
 three ends, round the bights of the other three and 
 the standing part, and it will appear like the figure 
 in the plate ; the ends are tapered as the other, this is 
 a much snugger knot than the common shroud knot. 
 
 38. Single Diamond Knot. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope a convenient length to 
 make your knot, and with the three strands form 
 three bights, holding the ends iast down the side pf 
 the rope in your left hand, with the standing part of 
 the rope, then take the first strand over the bight of 
 the second strand and through the bite of the third, 
 then take the second over the third and through the 
 bight of the first, then the third over the first and 
 through the second. Haul these taut and lay the 
 ends of your strands up again and it will appear as 
 in the plate. It is used for jibboom, foot ropes, man 
 ropes, <fcc. 
 
 39. A Double Diamond Knot. 
 
 To make this, you make a single one as before, 
 then take a marline spike and open your strands, 
 and follow the lead through two single bights, the 
 
5 
 
 45 
 
 he ends 
 ppear as 
 
 y as has 
 ends, if 
 up ; but 
 
 aen take 
 I lay the 
 take the 
 iigle and 
 rt of the 
 rm them 
 
 gether as 
 
 r-^V^ni'iS: 
 
44 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 them close together, then lay your first three ends 
 back upon their own part, and single wall the other 
 three ends, round the bights of the other three and 
 the standing part, and it will appear like the figure 
 in the plate ; the ends are tapered as the other, this is 
 a much snugger knot than the common shroud knot. 
 
 38. Single Diamond Knot. 
 
 Unlay the end of a rope a convenient length to 
 make your knot, and with the three strands form 
 three bights, holding the ends iast down the side pf 
 the rope in your left hand, with the standing part of 
 the rope, then take the first strand over the bight of 
 the second strand and through the bite of the third, 
 then take the second over the third and through the 
 bight of the first, then the third over the first and 
 through the second. Haul these taut and lay the 
 ends of your strands up again and it will appear as 
 in the plate. It is used for jibboom, foot ropes, man 
 ropes, (fee. 
 
 39. A Double Diamond Knot. 
 
 To make this, you make a single one as before, 
 then take a marline spike and open your strands, 
 and follow the lead through two single bights, the 
 
lE^ri-^TIPTX^. 
 
 i'y,Aj:E /jz. 
 
44 
 
 them clos 
 back upor 
 three eudf 
 the standi 
 in the plal 
 a much sr 
 
 Unlay t 
 make you 
 three high 
 the rope i 
 the rope, t 
 the second 
 then take 
 bight of tfj 
 through tl: 
 ends of yc 
 in the plat^ 
 ropes, (fee. 
 
 To mak. 
 then take 
 and follow 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 45 
 
 ends coming out at the top of the knot, lay the ends 
 of your strands up as before, and it will appear as 
 in the plate. 
 
 40. A /Stopper Knot. 
 
 Is made by double walling and crowning as has 
 been described before on an other page, the ends, if 
 very short are whipped without being layed up ; but 
 if long they are layed up and stopped. 
 
 41. A Buoy Rope Knot. 
 
 Unlay the strands of a cable laid rope, then take 
 one strand out of the large ones, and then lay the 
 three large ones up again as before, and take the 
 three small ones which were left out, and single and 
 double wall them round the standing part of the 
 rope, then take your spare ends, and worm them 
 along the lay and stop them. 
 
 42. Cominon Sennit. 
 
 Sennit is made by plaiting rope yarns together as 
 is described in the plate. 
 
46 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 43. A Sea Gasket. 
 
 Is made by taking three or four foxes according 
 to the size you intend to make your gasket. Middle 
 them over a belaying pin, and plait three or four 
 together, long enough to make your eye, then clap 
 both parts together to form your eye, then plait it by 
 bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately 
 over to the middle, the outside one is laid with the 
 right hand, and the remainder held steadily, work 
 the whole together, adding one fox, and when you have 
 got it a convenient length, commence to diminish by 
 dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish it, you 
 must lay one end up, leaving its bight down, then 
 plait the others through this bight, about one inch, 
 then haul the bight taut, to secure all parts, and cut 
 the ends off, and whip it and it is done. 
 
 44. A Panch or wrought Mat. 
 
 A piece of six or nine thread is stretched in a hori- 
 zontal direction, and the foxes according to the 
 breadth you intend to make the mat, are middled 
 and hung over it, then take the fox nearest th§ left 
 hand, and twist a turn in the two parts, and one part 
 give to the man opposite (two people being employed 
 to work the mat,) the next fox has a turn twisted in 
 its two parts, and one part given back to your part- 
 
47 
 
 ner, the remaining is twisted round the first which 
 was given back, and then again round its own part, 
 and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you 
 get it the breadth you wish, at the bottom of the mat 
 selvage it by taking a piece of nine thread, the same 
 as you used for the top, the two parts of the foxes 
 which are twisted together at the bottom are divided, 
 and the nine thread put between them, the foxes are 
 hitched round it, and the end put through its own 
 lay with a marlingspike, then trim your ends off', 
 and thrumb it with pieces of old strands of rope, cut 
 in pieces, about three or four inches long, open the 
 lays of your foxes with a marlingspike, and push 
 your thrumbs through the lays and open the ends 
 out. 
 
 45. Harbour Gasket or French Sennit. 
 
 Is made with foxes, something like the way you 
 make a common sea gasket, in the room of taking 
 the outside fox over'all the rest, and bringing it into 
 the middle, you interweave it between them by tak- 
 ing the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over 
 one and under the other, working it towards^ the 
 middle the same as common sennit. 
 
 46. Pointing a rope. 
 Unlay the end of a rope a convenient length for 
 
^ 
 
 48 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 pointing and stop it, open the strands out into yarns 
 and take out as many of the outside yarns as you 
 think it will require to make you knittles, by split- 
 ting your yarns and making one knittle out of every 
 outside yarn, then when they are made stop them 
 back on the standing part of the rope, then form 
 your point, with the rest of the yarns, by trimming 
 and scraping them down to a proper size, then marl 
 it down with twine, then divide your knittles, taking 
 every other one up, and every other one down, then 
 take a piece of twine which is called the warp, and 
 pass three turns very taut, taking a hitch with the 
 last turn, every time you pass the warp or filling, 
 then take the knittles which are up, and bring them 
 down, and the ones which are down up, hauling 
 them taut, and passing your warp, every time over 
 your lower knittles, proceed in this way till you get 
 almost to the end, reserving enough of your knittles 
 to finish it with, leave out every other bight of the 
 knittles of the last lay, and pass the warp through 
 the bight and haul them taut and cut them off, some 
 have a becket worked in the end. 
 
 Note. Knittles are made by laying rope yarns to- 
 gether with your finger and thumb against the twist 
 of the yarn. Snaking, is for the better securing of a 
 seizing, which is passed round the single part of a 
 rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It is done by 
 taking the end part of the seizing under and over the 
 lower and upper turns of the seizing. 
 
49 
 
 rope 
 h the 
 three 
 gand 
 
 {See 
 
 trnd a 
 ;allant 
 under 
 le end 
 ndthe 
 
 Yt. 
 
 id the 
 inswer 
 
 G-.TI'JLeH^. 
 
 is put 
 ^arn or 
 as you 
 J)l£tced 
 
f 
 
 48 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 pointing and stop it, open the strands out into yarns 
 and take out as many of the outside yarns as you 
 think it will require to make you knittles, by split- 
 ting your yarns and making one knittle out of every 
 outside yarn, then when they are made stop them 
 back on the standing part of the rope, then form 
 your point, with the rest of the yarns, by trimming 
 and scraping them down to a proper size, then marl 
 it down with twine, then divide your knittles, taking 
 every other one up, and every other one down, then 
 take a piece of twine which is called the warp, and 
 pass three turns very taut, taking a hitch with the 
 last turn, every time you pass the warp or filling, 
 then take the knittles which are up, and bring them 
 down, and the ones which are down up, hauling 
 them taut, and passing your warp, every time over 
 your lower knittles, proceed in this way till you get 
 almost to the end, reserving enough of your knittles 
 to finish it with, leave out every other bight of the 
 knittles of the last lay, and pass the warp through 
 the bight and haul them taut and cut them off, some 
 have a becket worked in the end. 
 
 Note. Knittles are made by laying rope yarns to- 
 gether with your finger and thumb against the twist 
 of the yarn. Snaking, is for the better securing of a 
 seizing, which is passed round the single part of a 
 rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It is done by 
 taking the end part of the seizing rnder and over the 
 lower and upper turns of the seizing. 
 
'^]B.]TsnrT , imiE.^ ^m- 
 
 O'n'XeH-lsLim 
 
48 
 
 point] 
 and ti 
 think 
 ting 3 
 outsic 
 back 
 your 
 and s 
 it dov 
 every 
 take i 
 pass t 
 last t 
 then 
 down 
 them 
 your 
 almos 
 to fin 
 knittl 
 the bi 
 have 
 No 
 gethft 
 of the 
 seizir 
 rope 
 takin 
 lowei 
 
47. To make a Gromet. 
 
 A gromet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope 
 and placing one part over the other, and with the 
 long end follow the lay till it forms a ring with three 
 parts of the strand all round, finish it by knotting and 
 sticking your ends the same as a long splice. {See 
 Plate.) 
 
 48. Pass a Rose Lashing. 
 
 It is used in lashing a strop or pudding round a 
 mast or yard, or the parrel lashing of a top gallant 
 yard, the lashing passed cross-ways over and under 
 one eye, then over and under the other, an^ the end 
 part, afterwards taking in a circular fortn round the 
 crossing, and the end tucked under the last part. 
 
 Note. This circular part is done to expand the 
 end in the room of cutting it off so as it will answer 
 again. 
 
 49. To Weave a Sword Mat, 
 
 A piece of wood called a sword is used, this is put 
 
 alternately between the parts of the spun yarn or 
 
 sennit, stretched over two round iron bolts (as you 
 
 see in the figure,) the warp of marline is placed 
 
 5 
 
60 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 through the parts which the sword has opened and 
 jambed by it close to the head, a piece of spun yarn 
 is put slack through the same division at the oppo- 
 site end aijd left there, the sword is taken out, passed 
 under and over the parts as before, and each end of 
 the warp passed and jambed taut, the piece of spun 
 yarn which was left at the opposite end is now lifted 
 up, and brings the parts as they were first divided 
 by the sword, the warp is passed as before, and so 
 on till you complete the mat. 
 
 50. A Lashing Cleat. 
 
 Is shaped like the figure in the plate, having a 
 score for the seizings which are snaked, and a groove 
 cut in the part that fits next to the shroud. 
 
 51. Blocks. 
 
 A SHELL PIN AND SHEAVE. 
 
 Blocks are of different shapes, according to the 
 purposes they are used for. A block consists of a 
 shell, sheave, and pin, and from the number of these 
 sheaves it derives its name, viz : a block with one 
 sheave is called single, with two, double, and with 
 three treble, and with four sheaves it is called a four- 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 61 
 
 fold block. The shell of a block is made of ash and 
 has one or two scores cut at each end according to 
 its size, these scores are for the purpose of admitting 
 a strop which goes round the block, and in its centre 
 is a hole for a pin, the shell is hollow, and in'the 
 inside, is placed a solid wheel called a sheave, made 
 of lignum vitae, iron or brass, in the centre of this 
 sheave is a hole for a pin, on which it turns, the 
 lignum vitge sheave is buslied with brass or iron, 
 round the circumference of the sheave is a groove, 
 that the rope which goes over it may play with ease, 
 the sheave is placed in the shell, and the. pin is pui 
 through both shell and sheave, which constitutes a 
 block. 
 
 52. Single Block. 
 
 What is termed a single block, has but one sheave, 
 but sometimes two scores on the outside of the shell, 
 if it is intended for a doi-ibie strop, single blocks are 
 more used than any other kind on board of a ship. 
 
 53. Double Block. 
 Is the same as a single, with one more sheave. 
 
 54. Treble Block. 
 Is made in the same way as a double, with one- 
 
52 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as 
 purchase blocks, and stropped in the manner you 
 see in the plate. 
 
 55. A Shoulder Block, 
 
 A shoulder block is the same as a single block, 
 excepting that it has a kind of a shoulder or projec- 
 tion at the bottom part of the shell, to prevent the 
 rope which reeves through it from jambing between 
 the block and the yard ; those blocks are mostly used 
 for bumpkin or lift blocks on a lower yard. 
 
 66. A Fiddle Block, 
 
 Is made like two single blocks one above the 
 other, the upper one being the largest so as to allow 
 the rope which is rove in the upper sheaves to play 
 clear of the rope in the under one, those blocks are 
 used in places where there is not room for a double 
 one, or in places where a double one would be liable 
 to split by not canting fair, or having room to play. 
 
 57. A Shoe Block. 
 Is also made like two single blocks, but the 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT.' 53 
 
 sheave of the upper one lies in a contrary direction 
 to that of the lower one. They are generally used 
 as buntline blocks to courses, the buntline reeving in 
 the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one. 
 
 58. A Sister Block. 
 
 Has two sheave hol^s one above the other, a score 
 for a seizing between the two sheaves and one at 
 each end for the same purpose, they are hollowed 
 out on each side of the shell, so as to let the shroud 
 lay in it, those blocks are used as top-sail lift blocks, 
 and seized in between the two forward shrouds of 
 the top-mast rigging, above the futtock stave, the lift 
 reeves in the upper sheave hole, and some people 
 reeve the top-sail reef tackle in the lower one. 
 
 59. A Monkey Block. 
 
 It is made with a saddle to nail upon the yard for 
 the buntlines to reeve through. Sometimes it has a 
 swivel above the saddle to permit the block to turn 
 round, when they are used as leech line blocks. 
 These blocks are all got out of fashion now-a-days. 
 
 60. A Dead Eye. 
 
 Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in 
 5* 
 
54 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 it (as you see in the plate,) and a groove cut round it 
 for the shroud to lie in. It is used to turn in 
 the ends of shrouds and back-stays, and the three 
 holes are used to reeve the lanyard through, when 
 setting up tne shroud or backstay. 
 
 61. ABiiWsEye. 
 
 Is a kind of a thick wooden thimble with a hole 
 in the centre, and a groove cut round the outside for 
 the rope or seizing to lay in. 
 
 62. A Heart. 
 
 Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, 
 at the bottom of which are four or five scores, and 
 round the outside is a groove cut to admit a rope 
 called a stay ; there are other hearts called collar 
 hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to 
 which the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double 
 score cut round the outside, and two grooves cut on 
 each side for the seizings to lay in, which keeps the 
 collar in the scores of the heart. 
 
 63. A Belaying Pin Rack. 
 Is a piece of wood which has a number of holes 
 
65 
 
 through it, in which belaying pins are stuck, on the 
 back part are several scores for the shroud to lie in, 
 to which it is seized. 
 
 64. A Ewphroe. 
 
 Is a long piece of wood having a number of holes 
 through which the legs of the crowfoot is rove, a 
 score is cut round it to admit of a strap, this is used 
 for the ridge of an awning. 
 
 65. A Horn Cleat 
 
 Those cleats are used for different purposes, some 
 are made to seize on to the shrouds, those are called 
 lashing cleats, others are made to nail on to different 
 parts of the bulwarks, they are of different shape and 
 size, and used to belay various ropes to in all parts 
 of the ship. 
 
 66. A Bee Cleat. 
 
 Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something 
 like the letter B, and rounded off outside, they are 
 used for leading a rope through, or for keeping it in 
 its place, on the masts, bow-sprit, <fcc. 
 
56 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 67. A Strop for a Block, 
 
 Strops are fitted in various ways according to the 
 use they are intended for, and according to the size 
 of the block. A common strop is fitted in the fol- 
 lowing manner, you first cut your rope once and a 
 half the round of the block, then get it on a stretch, 
 worm parcel and serve as near to the end as possible, 
 not to interfere with splicing, then take and splice 
 the ends together with a short splice, and finish 
 serving, snug up to the splice, stretch it and cut your 
 ends off, or you may serve over the ends, and it will 
 appear as in the plate. 
 
 68. A Tail Block, 
 
 Is stropped with an eye splice, snug round the 
 block, the ends are stuck but once, and the ends 
 scraped down, and served over with spun yarn, you 
 then clap on a stout whipping about six inches from 
 the splice, open the ends out, twist them into foxes 
 and pleat them together as mentioned for gaskets, or 
 you may open the strands out and marl them down 
 selvagee fashion, tapering it a little towards the end 
 of the tail. 
 
 Note. Those used for jiggers have a double tail 
 made in the same manner. 
 
-^ 
 
 tq 
 
 l\ 
 
 57 
 
 e shell 
 
 d, and 
 
 fcelled 
 
 ) as to 
 
 The 
 
 e only 
 
 rough 
 
 strops 
 
 ase to 
 
 them 
 
 to an 
 le top 
 
 it has 
 irposQ 
 ing it. 
 on the 
 
 C^.WIiewisJ} 
 
56 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 67, A (Strop for a Block. 
 
 Strops are fitted in various ways according to the 
 use they are intended for, and according to the size 
 of the block. A common strop is fitted in the fol- 
 lowing manner, you first cut your rope once and a 
 half the round of the block, then get it on a stretch, 
 worm parcel and serve as near to the end as possible, 
 not to interfere with splicing, then take and splice 
 the ends together with a short splice, and finish 
 serving, snug up to the splice, stretch it and cut your 
 ends off, or you may serve over the ends, and it will 
 appear as in the plate. 
 
 68. A Tail Block, 
 
 Is stropped with an eye splice, snug round the 
 block, the ends are stuck but once, and the ends 
 scraped down, and served over with spun yarn, you 
 then clap on a stout whipping about six inches from 
 the splice, open the ends out, twist them into foxes 
 and pleat them together as mentioned for gaskets, or 
 you may open the strands out and marl them down 
 selvagee fashion, tapering it a little towards the end 
 of the tail. 
 
 Note. Those used for jiggers have a double tail 
 magie in the same n^anner. 
 
MJa O COK^i? , S 1MAT S Up-. 
 
 FTiATE FT 
 
56 
 
 Stro 
 use Ih' 
 of the 
 lowin< 
 halftl 
 worm 
 not to 
 the 61 
 servin 
 ends ( 
 appea 
 
 Is 
 
 block 
 scrap 
 then 
 the s] 
 and I 
 you 
 selva 
 ofth. 
 
 Nc 
 ma(Je 
 
youNG sailor's assistant. 57 
 
 69. A Purchase Block. 
 
 Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell 
 for that purpose, the strap is wormed, parcelled, and 
 served, and sometimes only wormed and parcelled 
 and spliced together. Then it is doubled so as to 
 bring the splice at the bottom of the block. The 
 seizing is clapped on the same as any other, the only 
 difference is, that it is crossed both ways, through 
 the double parts of the strop. These block strops 
 are so large and stiff, that it requires a purchase to 
 set them into the score of the block, and show them 
 their proper place. 
 
 70. A Top Block. 
 
 Is a single iron bound hook block, it hooks to an 
 eyebolt in the cap, and is used for reeving the top 
 pendants through, when swaying up top-masts. 
 
 Note. They have generally got a brass sheave. 
 
 71. A Cat Block. 
 
 The cat block is three fold, and iron bound, it has 
 got a large iron hook attached to it, for the purpose 
 of hooking to the ring of the anchor when catting it. 
 
 Note. It has got two small eye bolts one on the 
 
58 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 forward side of the shell, to fit a small bridle in, 
 which is called the back rope bridle, used in hooking 
 the cat. 
 
 72. A Snatch Block, 
 
 Is mostly iron bound with a swivel hook, and 
 an iron clasp is fitted on the strap with a hinge, 
 which goes over the snatch and toggles on the oppo- 
 site side, as you see in the plate. This is used for 
 placing the bight of a hawser or large rope in when 
 warping the ship, &c. 
 
 Note. There are several difierent improvements 
 made on these blocks. 
 
 73. A Nun Boy. 
 
 These are shaped as you see in the plate, a kind 
 of a cask, which is large in the middle and small at 
 both ends, and hooped close with iron hoops, and 
 stropped with rope well served, the strops of those 
 buoys, are cut nine times the length of the buoy, 
 which will make the slings and hoops, the slings 
 have an eye spliced in each end, the hoops are rove 
 through those eyes, and then spliced together, and 
 fitted on the buoy as you see in the plate. 
 
59 
 
 74. To Bend a Buoy Rope. 
 
 It is made fast with a clove hitch round the arms 
 of the anchor, close up to the crown, and the end 
 part is stopped along the shank, with one or two 
 stops. 
 
 Note. Some are fitted with a running eye, and 
 when they are used this way, the running eye is rove 
 round one arm, and a hitch taken over the other, and 
 seized in the cross. In large ships they are fitted 
 with pendants and slip buoy ropes, the pendants 
 have a large thimble spliced into the end, large 
 enough to receive a stout hawser, in case you should 
 want to purchase your anchor by the buoy rope. 
 The size for the slip buoy rope is one third the size 
 of the proper buoy rope. 
 
 75. To Pudding the ring of an Anchor. 
 
 The ring of the anchor is well tarred and parcel- 
 led with tarred canvass, then a number of len2[ths of 
 old rope, are cut three times the diameter of the ring, 
 these are laid on the ring, and stopped by a tempo- 
 rary seizing in the middle, then they are placed fair 
 by hand round the rings as you see in the plate. 
 
 When a turn or two of ratting stuff is taken round 
 all parts, and a heaver being put through it, it is hove 
 
60 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 well round, which stretches all parts snug round the 
 ring. After it is all hove on snug put on your seiz- 
 ings, four in number (as you see in the plate.) 
 
 76. To make a JacoVs Ladder. 
 
 Those ladders are used for many different parts 
 of a ship of war, they are used for stern ladders, and 
 the swinging booms in harbour, rigging ladders, <fec. 
 They are made in many different ways, some are 
 made selvagee fashion, and covered, others are made 
 of four stranded rope, and have the rounds put 
 through between the strands of the rope. But the 
 most common way of making those ladders is to 
 take some small rope, about two inch stuff, and make 
 two long straps the length you intend to make the 
 ladder, and splice them together with a short long 
 splice, your straps now being made, get them on a 
 stretch both together, and see if they bear a strain 
 both alike, if not you must shorten one strap, so as 
 to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark 
 them off where you intend the rounds to go, about 
 fifteen inches apart. (The rounds are pieces ol 
 round wood, about two inches in diameter, with a 
 score in each end for the rope to lay in, made the 
 length required,) you then put your rounds in, be- 
 tween both parts of the rope, exactly at the chalk 
 
 b 
 
61 
 
 mark, having got them all placed, commence and 
 seize them in by putting on a snug seizing of mar- 
 line on eacli side of the round, you may parcel, 
 leather, or serve in the nips, just as you like. 
 
 77. Can Hooks. 
 
 Are broad flat iron hooks in the eye of which there 
 is a thimble inserted. What is called a pair of can 
 hooks, is a piece of rope four or five feet long, or 
 long enough to span a cask from chime to chime, 
 when fitted one of those hooks are spliced into each 
 end of this rope, it is then got on a stretch, wormed, 
 parcelled and served, some people seize a thimble in 
 the bight. 
 
 Note. Some are fitted with chain, with a large 
 iron ring in the middle. {See Plate.) 
 
 78. Hogshead Slings. 
 
 Is a piece of rope about five fathoms long and from 
 five to six inches in circumference, with a large thim- 
 ble spliced in one end, and the other end well whip- 
 ped, those are used to shng large casks, being more 
 secure than can hooks, to sling a cask with. Tho^e 
 
 slings, you take and reeve it through the thim- 
 
 6 
 
62 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 ble around one end of the cask, hauling it well 
 taut, then take the end part of the slings, round the 
 other end of the cask; and take two half hitches 
 round the standing part, and it is done. 
 
 79. Barrel Slings. 
 
 Are used the same as a long strap, spliced with a 
 short splice, and made long enough to go round a 
 barrel, and reeve one bight through the other, some 
 are made long enough to sling two or three barrels 
 at a time. 
 
 Note. They are generally made of three inch 
 rope. 
 
 80. A Single Whip. 
 
 A single whip is the smallest and most simple pur- 
 chase that is rove. It is made by reeving a rope 
 through a single block, as you see in the plate. 
 
 81. ii Gun Tackle Purchase. 
 
 Is made by reeveing a rope through a single block, 
 then through another single block, then make the end 
 
63 
 
 fast to the one you first rove it through, or splice it 
 in to the bottom of the block for neatness. {See 
 Plate.) 
 
 82. A Luff Tackle Purchase. 
 
 Consists of a double and single block, the fall is 
 rove through one of the sheave holes of the double 
 block, then through the single one, through the dou- 
 ble one again, and the end makes fast to the single 
 one, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom of 
 the block. (JSee Plate.) 
 
 83. A Top Burton. 
 
 Is rove in the same manner as a luff tackle pur- 
 chase, the only difference is that the upper block of 
 the burton is a fiddle block, and the luff a double 
 one. (See Plate.) 
 
 84. Whip and Runner, 
 
 If a rope be rove through a single block, it is call- 
 ed a whip as before mentioned, and if the fall of this 
 whip be spliced round the blocks of another "whip, 
 it becomes whip on whip, or whip and runner. (See 
 Plate.) 
 
64 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 85. A Runner and Tackle, 
 
 Is the same purchase as a luff tackle applied to a 
 runner, which is a large rope rove through a single 
 block, with a hook splicea in one end. (>S'ee Plate.) 
 
 86. A Twofold Purchase. » 
 
 Consists of two double blocks, the fall is first rove 
 through one sheave of the upper block, then through 
 one of the lower one, then through the upper one 
 again, then through the lower one, and make your 
 end fast to the upper block. 
 
 87. A Threefold Purchase, 
 
 A three fold purchase is rove in this way, the 
 blocks having one more sheave, only that you com- 
 mence to reeve your fall in the middle sheave first, 
 instead of one of the side ones which brings a cross 
 in the fall, the reason of it being rove this way is 
 that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, 
 and if it was rove in the side sheave it would have a 
 tendency to cant the block in the strop, and split the 
 shell of the block and cut the fall, but when it is in 
 the middle sheave it draws all down square alike. 
 
I. 
 
ft4 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 85. A Runner and Tackle. 
 
 Is the same purchase as a luff tackle applied to a 
 runner, which is a large rope rove through a single 
 block, with a hook spliced in one end. {See Plate.) 
 
 86. A Twofold Purchase. » 
 
 Consists of two double blocks, the fall is first rove 
 through one sheave of the upper block, then through 
 one of the lower one, then through the upper one 
 again, then through the lower one, and make your 
 end fast to the upper block. 
 
 87. A Threefold Purchase. 
 
 A three fold purchase is rove in this way, the 
 blocks having one more sheave, only that you com- 
 mence to reeve your full in the middle sheave first, 
 instead of one of the side ones which brings a cross 
 in the fall, the reason of it being rove this way is 
 that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, 
 and if it was rove in the side sheave it would have a 
 tendency to cant the block in the strop, and split the 
 shell of the block and cut the fall, but when it is in 
 the middle sheave it draws all down square alike. 
 
J'JjATE vt. 
 
 G. [^^JjeH'U'I'ifh-. 
 
64 
 
 Is the 
 runner, 
 block, \ 
 
 Con^ 
 through 
 one of J. 
 
 again, 
 end fa 
 
 A 
 
 block: 
 menc 
 instcc 
 in th< 
 that 1 
 and i 
 tend( 
 shell 
 ther 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 65 
 
 88. Names of Ropes, 
 
 The names of the different kinds of rope, are de- 
 signated as follows, hawser laid and cabled laid rope 
 is all the same thing, it is composed of nine strands, 
 each strand having an equal number of yarns. These 
 nine strands are laid into three, by twisting three 
 small ones into one large one, then the three large 
 are laid up, or twisted together left handed, which 
 makes the nine strands ; this is a hauser laid rope. 
 A common or plain rope is composed of three strands 
 of an equal number of yarns twisted together. Shroud 
 laid rope is made in the same way, only that it con- 
 sists of four strands in the room of three, and a smaL 
 strand which runs through the middle, which is 
 termed the heart of the rope, when plain laid rope, 
 is laid up left handed, it is called back laid rope ; 
 there is four stranded hawser laid rope which is 
 used for stays, ifcc. 
 
 89. Rig Ship, To get sheers on board. 
 
 Take in a sufficiency of ballast to steady the ship, 
 shore the decks from the skin up, and particularly 
 abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down 
 the sides, and reeve the parbuckles, bring the sheer 
 legs alongside, with their small ends aft, and par- 
 
66 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 buckle them on board, raise one leg over the capstern, 
 and lay the heads on the taffrail. 
 
 Parbuckle the shoes on board, and place them 
 under the heels. Square the heels, placing them 
 nearly amidships, cross the heads and clap on the 
 head lashing of new well stretched rope {figure ofS 
 fashion) similar to a throat seizing, and dog down 
 the ends. Lash on the main purchase block, so that 
 it will hang plumb under the cross. Middle a couple 
 of hawsers, and clove hitch them over the sheer 
 heads, having two ends leading forward, and two 
 leading abaft, through viol blocks toggled to the bow 
 and stern ports, and stout luffs clapped on them. 
 Lash the small purchase block on the after fork of 
 the sheers, so high up, that the falls may play clear 
 of each other, and a girlline block above all. Lash 
 hawsers to each sheer leg about one third down for 
 belly guys, and a cleat, as an additional security 
 (belly tackles may be used.) 
 
 Take the lower purchase blocks forward, lash 
 them securely and reeve the purchases (with the fall 
 part through the middle sheave first) and reeve girt- 
 lines. Lash the heels temporally to the shoes and spread 
 them, thus tautening the head lashing. Have for- 
 ward and after heel tackles, hook them all aft and 
 bouse the sheers as much over the stern as possible. 
 Hook athwart-ship tackle to the heels, and bouse it 
 well taut. To relieve the water ways, pass a bul- 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 67 
 
 wark lashing round the heels to assist the heel 
 tackles. Lead the purchase falls to the capstern, 
 take in the slack of the forward guys, have hands 
 to attend the after one. 
 
 Note. Skids which are slung up and down the 
 sides, are for the purpose cf keeping the sheer legs 
 clear of the channels, and from thence to the plank 
 shear. 
 
 Mats should be placed over the quarter gallerys 
 to prevent injuring. The parbuckles are hawsers 
 which are middled, the ends of which, are taken 
 through two ports which are five or six ports apart, 
 from outside in, down over the rail, under the sheer 
 legs, up again through snatch blocks in the opposite 
 water-way, and luffs clapped on them. The counter 
 parbuckles are used to ease the sheer legs down on 
 deck, and are rove through the gun deck ports, mats 
 should be in wake of the chafe, where the parbuckle 
 leads over the rail, or up through the gun deck ports. 
 
 The shoes are made of either stout oak plank or 
 beam timbers of pine, and long enough to extend 
 over at least three beams, with a saucer in them for 
 the heels to rest in, and mortices or bolts in each end 
 to lash the heels to, (be particular in shoring the 
 decks, under the shoes.) In spreading the heels, care 
 should be taken that the extent between them does 
 not exceed the breadth of beam, abreast ot the mizen 
 partners. 
 
68 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 90. To Raise the Sheers. 
 
 Man the capstern, heave round steadily and bouse 
 upon the guy tackles at the same time. When nearly 
 perpendicular, avast heaving, getting the strain 
 upon the forward and after guys, secure the guy falls, 
 hook the forward heel tackles, forward, and haul it 
 well taut and lash the heels securely to the shoes, 
 come up purchase and bulwark lashings, wet the 
 decks in the wake of the shoes, let a hand attend the 
 forward heel tackle, to slack as they haul aft, and 
 transport the shears to just forward of the mizen 
 partners, where make all fast. The heels should be 
 over a beam if possible, and the heads should be 
 plumb with the partners. 
 
 91. To take in the Mizen Mast. 
 
 Tow the mizen mast alongside with the head aft, 
 and the garland lashed on to the forward part of the 
 mast, the distance from the tennon to just above the 
 spar deck partners, lash a pair of girtline blocks on 
 the mast head, and reeve the girtlines, bend the sheer 
 head girtline to the mast below the bibbs to cant it. 
 Overhaul the main purchase down abaft, thrust the 
 strop through the eyes of the garland ; toggle it and 
 secure the toggle by a back lashing, take the fall to 
 the capstern, and heave around, when the heel rises 
 
69 
 
 near the rail, hook on a heel tackle to ease it in aboard, 
 bouse upon the girtline and get the mast fair for low- 
 ering, wipe dry the tennon, have carpenters below 
 attending, white lead the step and tennon, lower away 
 and step the mast, pass a couple of strops around the 
 mast, hook the double block of the pendant tackles 
 to them, the single ones to the sides and haul tauti 
 wedge the mast temporarily, come up purchases, man 
 guy and heel tackles, wet the decks and transport 
 the sheers forward for taking in the main mast, ob- 
 serving to come up athwartship tackles in the wake of 
 all obstructions, take the mast-head girtline forward 
 to steady the mast. 
 
 Note. Garlands are made of new stretched rope, 
 salvagee fashion, well marled together, then parcelled. 
 They are then laid on the forward part of a mast, 
 and a stout lashing clapt on over all, and crossed be- 
 tween the garland and mast. The reason why the 
 mizen mast is got in first, is because the breadth of 
 beam is less aft than forward, and consequently the 
 head lashing becomes tauter, the heels being spread 
 more as they go forward, moreover if the mizen mast 
 was taken in last, the bowsprit must be got in first, 
 thus the opportunity of securing the sheers to the 
 foremast head, would be lost. 
 
 92. To take in Main and Foremast. 
 Proceed as in getting in the mizen mast, with the 
 
70 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 exception of using the sma]l purchase, the garland 
 for it being lashed about the diameter of the mast 
 above the main one. 
 
 Note. If in taking in either of tlie masts, the 
 sheers should be found rather short, the difficulty 
 may be remedied by manning the forward guy falls 
 and making them perpendicular to the deck, if only 
 a few inches are required, tliis may be sufficient. 
 Some distance may also be saved by using no gar- 
 land, and let the purchase block be lashed to the 
 mast. If in lowering, there should still be a difficul- 
 ty, chocks might be placed on the kelson until the 
 tennon rested on them, then steady the mast by the 
 small purchase and sheer head girtlines, while the 
 main purchase is unlashed, and lashed again higher 
 up the mast, sufficient to step it. If the ship has a 
 top gallant forecastle, it would be well to step the 
 mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the 
 forecastle comes abreast of the partners, and in a case 
 of that kind it would be well to take in the foremast 
 first. 
 
 93. To take in the Bowsprit. 
 
 Transport the sheers as far forward as possible, or 
 as the bows will permit, send a hand to the sheer 
 head, bend on the girtlines to the small purchase 
 
YOUNG SAILOR^S ASSISTANT. 71 
 
 block and light it up and uulash it, and lash it again 
 to the forward fork of the sheers, pass a strop around 
 the foremast head, and hook a large tackle to it which 
 carry aft and set well taut, lash a couple of large 
 single blocks to the foremast head, middle a hawser 
 and clove hitch it over the sheer head, take the ends 
 through the blocks at the mast head well aft, and 
 take a turn, hook the after heel tackles forward, and 
 take the after guys aft, pass a bulwark lashing 
 around each heel, rake the sheers over the bows that 
 the main purchase may hang directly over the gam- 
 moning scuttle, and make all fast. Overhaul down 
 the purchases and toggle them, the bowsprit being 
 brought under the bows with the head forward, and 
 garlands lashed on, the main one a little more than 
 one third from the heel, the smaller one, between the 
 cap and bees, having guys leading from the bowsprit 
 to the cat heads, and a couple of strops, around the 
 heel to hook the bedding tackle to. "Sway away" 
 attending it by the guys aud get it nearly perpen- 
 dicular, when hook bedding tackles, taken from the 
 bitts on main deck, up through the partners, wipe 
 the tennon dry, whitelead both it and mortice, 
 "Lower away" bouse upon the bedding tackles, and 
 bring it into its place, come up purchases, guys, un- 
 lash garlands and proceed to dismantle the sheers. 
 If your ship has^a top gallant forecastle, you cannot 
 take in your bowsprit with the sheers, on account 
 of the brake of the forecastle. 
 
 
72 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Note. In rigging a stage under the bowsprit, 
 make use of two small spars, such as top gallant 
 studding sail booms, with their heels resting on the 
 head rail, and their heads lashed together and slung 
 from the Bowsprit end, and boards laid across, one 
 from another. The gammoning is of new well 
 stretched rope, generally water laid. It would be 
 best to get a caulkers stage or a camel under your 
 bows if handy, and haul it lengthways under your 
 bowsprit, and overhaul a stout tackle and hook on 
 to the other end of your stage, and haul well taut. 
 Send the men on the stage and set up the gammon- 
 ing.* 
 
 94. To Ris" the Foremast, 
 
 "a 
 
 White lead the mast head in the wake of the 
 trussel trees, overhaul down the girtlines bend on the 
 trussel trees, and sway them on board, take out the 
 after chock, wipe them dry, bend the girtlines to the 
 forward part, and stop the girtlines to the after 
 part, bend the main girtline to the after part 
 also, and sway away having a steadying line for- 
 ward to keep the trussel trees from catching under 
 the bibbs for if they are heavy, one man aloft cannot 
 bear them off from under the bibbs, when above the 
 bibbs send a hand aloft to slip the stops one, at a time 
 
 * See gammoning the bowsprit, in miscellaneous articles. 
 
 /• 
 
73 
 
 so as they won't go with a surge. Lower away, bouse 
 aft on the after girtlines, and get the trussel trees in 
 their places, send aloft the after chock, ship and bolt 
 it, tar the mast head in the wake of the rigging, over- 
 haul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which are 
 tarred and parcelled, sway aloft and stop them, lash 
 the girtline blocks to the after part of the trussel 
 trees, and have hand girtlines and stirrups for the 
 man aloft to stand in at the mast head. Take pen- 
 dant tackles forward to steady the mast for rigging, 
 overhaul down the girtlines, send aloft the lower 
 pendants which have got a long and short leg fitted 
 together with spans so as to form a square, the size 
 of the mast head, the long leg is placed abaft, so that 
 in case the fore stay is shot away, the pendant tackle 
 can be hooked in them without being in the way of 
 the fore yard in bracing, while the leg being abaft 
 the mast affords them good security. The rigging 
 is got on board on its respective sides, and its eyes 
 opened out and bent in the proper way for going 
 over, measure the length of the mast head, below the 
 eye seizing of the first pair of starboard shrouds and 
 rack them together. Turn a toggle in one end of 
 the girdines, let the other be bent so as to act as a 
 down haul, and thrust the toggle between the legs of 
 the shroud, stop the girtlines to the eye seizing and^ 
 to the middle of the eye, sway aloft and when the 
 
 stop comes to the block, cut it and bend on the hand 
 
 7 
 
n 
 
 girtline, sway higher and cut the other stop, let the 
 man at the mast head, bear the eyes over, lower 
 away and beat it well down with a commander, ob- 
 serving to have the eye seizing come as near the 
 centre of the mast head as possible, and get over the 
 larboard pair in the same way, turn in the dead-eyes 
 with the lay. reeve lanyards and set up both pair of 
 shrouds at the same time, taking care to give the 
 mast its proper stay, and get over all the shrouds af- 
 ter the same manner, and set them up as the two 
 forward pairs were, and shift the girtline to the mast 
 head. Overhaul down the girtlines forward of the 
 mast, bend on to the forestay, sway aloft, bear the legs 
 on opposite sides of mast head, and lash them together 
 above the eyes of the rigging, turn in the heart with 
 the lay of the rope, reeve the laniards on the bight 
 and set it up, next get aloft the spring stay in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Note. The trusseltrees, might be got over without 
 knocking out the after chocks, by ri^ning up a der- 
 rick abaft the mast, well lashed abaft below the bibbs, 
 having chocks placed between it and the mast, suf- 
 ficient to admit of the free passage of the after chock 
 of the trusseltrees, they are sometimes got on, before 
 getting in the mast, but they then bring an additional 
 and unnecessary weight upon the mast head, and 
 moreover in lowering, catch over the shear head. 
 
YOUNG sailor's assistant; 76 
 
 95. To Rig Main and Mizen Mast. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as directed for fore 
 mast, the main mast of a frigate has one more pair 
 of shrouds, and the mizen three less than the fore, 
 there is only one pair of mizen pendants, which go 
 either with a cut splice or with the odd shrouds. 
 
 Note. The stays are lashed above the eyes of the 
 rigging at first, so as to give them a close fit down 
 about the mast head, and shifted down afterwards. 
 
 96. To Get the Tops over. 
 
 Overhaul the girtlines for the cross trees, white 
 lead the scores in the trusseltrees, and ship them, fit 
 a pair of span blocks over the mast head, through 
 them reeve stout girtlines, overhaul them down abaft 
 the riofgiiig alongside and bend them on to the top 
 and hitch them to the pigeon holes and bend the 
 main girtline to the after rim of the top. "Sway 
 away" and ease them in board, now pass the girtlines 
 properly, by taking them under the forward part of 
 the top up through the girtline holes, around the 
 wing of the top and hitch them to their own parts, 
 stop them to the pigeon hole and bend the main 
 girtlines to the after part of the fore top. "Sway 
 away," guying it clear of trusseltrees by the main 
 girtlines, and bend a tripping line to the pigeon hole. 
 
76 KEDQE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 leading from the bowsprit end ; when high enough 
 sHp the stops, cant over by the tripping line, lower 
 handsomely, ship it foir and toggle it. The main top 
 is guyed clear by the mizen girtlines, and is canted 
 by a tripping line from the foremast head, the mizen 
 top has guys from the taffrail and a tripping line 
 from the main mast head. 
 
 Note. In cold weather, it would be best to get the 
 top over before rigging, the mast, in order to give the 
 inen more security, and then a derrick rigged on the 
 top would be the best way to get the rigging over 
 in a heavy ship. 
 
 97. To swifter m the Lower Rigging. 
 
 Lash capstern bars to the rigging three fourths up, 
 having parcelling in the wake, and clap a tail block 
 around each shroud and the bars, middle the swifter 
 and reeve the ends through the middle blocks, on 
 each side, then through the others alternately, one 
 leading forward, the other aft, and taking them 
 through leading blocks in the opposite water ways. 
 Measure one third of the breadth of the top, and 
 lay it off on the forward shroud on each side from 
 the upper part of the trusseltrees down, and then 
 seize on the futtock staffs which are of iron, and well 
 leathered. Seize on a catharpin leg on each side, 
 
77 
 
 and swifter the rigging until the eye of the other end 
 meet the opposite side, then seize all on, come up the 
 swifter, send down the bars and blocks, (the forward 
 and after shronds are not swiftered in,) ship fnttock 
 plates, hook and set up futtock shrouds, ship toprail 
 and reeve fancy lines. Above tlie fore catharpin legs, 
 seize ou collar and bull's eye for the main topmast 
 spring stay to reeve through. The collars for the 
 main and mizen topmast stays are above the eyes of 
 the fore and main rigging. 
 
 98. To set up Loioer Rigging. 
 
 Unhook the pendant tackles from the strops below 
 the bibbs of the mast, and hook them to the runner 
 pendants; clap selvages on the rigging, having old 
 canvass in the wake, and hook the single blocks of 
 the luflTs to them, catspaw or toggle the lanyard to the 
 double blocks, overhaul the pendant tackles and 
 black wall the ends of the luff tackles to the lower 
 blocks. Set up the rigging for a full due, observing 
 the same precautions as vvlien it was first set up. 
 The end of the lanyard is backed around one part of 
 the shroud, above the dead eye, jammed well taut, 
 with the pendant tackles, then expended round both 
 parts and stopped to the shrouds. Now seize on the 
 shear poles, cap and square the ends and seizings, 
 and come up the lower stays, settle the eyes down 
 
78 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 over the eyes of the rigging, and set them up in the 
 same manner as the shrouds, except reeving the lan- 
 yard upon the bight. Spar and rattle the rigging. 
 The mast being stayed, they may be permanently 
 wedged and coated. 
 
 Note. In setting up the rigging at first, the lan- 
 yards are only rove double and well greased ; the 
 knot of the lanyard should be inside on the end part 
 of the shroud, the dead eyes are at first turned in 
 with the shroud. In setting up for a full due, turn 
 in the dead eye properly, and reeve the lanyards full. 
 The reason for setting the eyes of the stays down over 
 the eyes of the rigging, is to clear them of the top- 
 mast fid and foot of the topsail. 
 
 99. To get on hoard the Topmast. 
 
 Overhaul the girtline and send up lower cap shores, 
 top blocks and fids, together with a large single block, 
 which lash over the eyes of the rigging, with a lash- 
 ing long enough to allow (or you can lash it half 
 mast head high, which is the best way,) the block to 
 hang: abreast the bibbs of the mast. Throuo:h this 
 block reeve a large hawser, leading the end down 
 forward of the rigging, through the upper sheave 
 hole in the heel of the topmast, and clove hitch it 
 round the mast head and the other part, rack both 
 parts together in several places, man the other end 
 
79 
 
 and sway away ; when hi^h enough, bend on a rope 
 to ease it in board, place the round hole in the lower 
 cap over the square hole in the trusseltrees, and point 
 the topmast through it. If the topmast is too long to 
 point, lower the heel down the scuttle forward the 
 mast, and then point it. 
 
 When the head passes through the round hole in 
 the cap, pass a lashing from the bolts on one side 
 across the mast head to the bolts on the other side, 
 take a couple of stout strops through the fid hole, 
 hook the pendant tackles on to them, and haul them 
 taut. Come up the hawser and un reeve it from the 
 sheave hole, get a hawser in the fid hole and have a 
 slew rope to it, whitelead the masthead, also the ends 
 of the shore and sway up ; when high enough, slew 
 fair, ship the cap and shore it, beat it down in its 
 place, tack a sheet of lead over the lower mast head 
 to protect it from the weather, hook the top blocks, 
 round up, reeve and hitch the top pendants and hook 
 the top tackles, sway the mast up a few feet above 
 the lower cap, come up the pendant tackles, take the 
 heaver and strops out of the fid hole of the topmast. 
 
 100. To rig the Topmast, 
 Pit the span blocks over the mast head, reeve the 
 girtlines and overhaul them down abaft for the cross- 
 trees, bend on and sway them in board, place them 
 
80 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 abaft their respective masts, with the forward part 
 uppermost ; bend the girtlines to the afterpart, and 
 stop them to the forward part, having a guy from the 
 deck to clear them of the tops as tliey go aloft, "sway 
 away," rest them on the lower cap abaft the topmast, 
 passing stout lashings through the quarter bolts in 
 the cap and around the afterhorns of the crosstrees, 
 cast off the girtlines and take off the span blocl^s, 
 whitelead the masthead, in the wake of the crosstrees, 
 lower away the mast, and as it goes down, bear over 
 the round hole in the cap, sway again and beat them 
 down in their places ; tar the masthead in the wake 
 of the rigging, send aloft and stop the bolsters, get 
 girtlines on the horns of the crosstrees, sway aloft, 
 place the ginn span, and hook the ginns which mouse. 
 Get over the burton pendants, hook the top burtons 
 and set them taut to a strop passed around oneof th« 
 topmast dead eyes, hitch a small hawser, or a stout 
 rope around the hounds of the topmast, which set 
 taut forward. Man the top tackles, sway aloft, and 
 fid the topmasts. Now rig the mast head by getting 
 over the starboard and larboard shrouds alternately, 
 breast back stays, standing back stays, fore and aft 
 and jib stays, turn in the dead eyes, reeve the lan- 
 yards, and set up the rigging the same as the lower 
 rigging was, reeve and set up the stays also, in the 
 same way, stay the mast by the fore and aft stays ; 
 now fit over the lower mast head slings for the lower 
 
81 
 
 yards, and the fire slings, which are fitted over the 
 collars. 
 
 Note. The topmasts are fidded before rigging, 
 to avoid the greater strain upon the top tackles. If 
 a topmast has only one sheave (like a mizen topmast,) 
 it is a good precaution to reeve a hawser through the 
 fid hole, haul it taut as the mast goes aloft, un reeving 
 it only when the mast is high enough for Adding. 
 As the lee breast back stays bear play, they are put 
 on before the standing ones, so that the latter ones 
 may keep them steady in their places. The topmast 
 spring stay may either have their collars dipped 
 through those of the standing stays, or they may go 
 above the masthead first. The rigging may be set up 
 with burtons or a Spanish windlass. There is no 
 mizen topmast spring stay. 
 
 101. 2o get onboard and rig the Jibhoom. 
 
 Hoist the boom on board by the hawser which 
 was left at the fore mast head, when getting on board 
 the fore topmast, run the end out on the bowsprit, 
 pointing it through the stay collars and bowsprit cap, 
 reeve the heel rope and sway out a foot or two be- 
 yond the cap, put on the traveller, reeve the jib stay 
 through the hanks, through the traveller, then 
 through the inner sheave hole in the boom end, and 
 turn in a double block in the inner end; reeve the 
 
82 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 lanyard through this and a single block bolted to the 
 bows, to the traveller seize the jib, downhaul blocks 
 and travelling guys, tar tlie boom end, put a grummet 
 over, to which seize the fore top gallant bowline 
 blocks. Next the foot ropes, which set up to bowsprit 
 cap, next the standing guys, and lastly the jib mar- 
 tingale block. Ship the wytlie for the flying jibboora, 
 get gobb ropes on the dolphin striker, reeve the jib 
 martingale, man the heel rope and run out, pass the 
 heel lashing, set up the martingale and jib stays. 
 
 102. To Swifter in Top Mast Rigging. 
 
 Do this similar to the lower ringing, seize the fut- 
 tock staffs and calharpin legs, square the dead eyes 
 of the rigging, set it up for a full due, seize on the 
 sheer poles, cap and square the end seizings, spar 
 and rattle it down. 
 
 Note. The fnttock staffs are seized on the inside 
 of the rigging, to counteract the effect of the top 
 gallant rigging, which leads over them. The cathar- 
 pins go around the topmast, both ends setting up on 
 the same side. 
 
 103. To rig the Sprit sail Yard. 
 
 Sway it on board by the hawser at the fore mas 
 head, and get it fore and aft on the larboard side of 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 83 
 
 the forecastle, with the starboard yard arm forward, 
 middle the yard, parcel and leather the slinks, fit the 
 tye, seize on the parrel straps for tne flying jib 
 sheets, jib and flying jib guys, tar the yard arms, put 
 on the grummet and foot ropts, which reeve through 
 stirrups nailed on the yard at equal distances, and set 
 up to the opposite quarters of the yard, seize on 
 blocks for the forward lower boom guys, spritsail 
 brace "blocks and lifts, reeve the lifts and braces, 
 bending on ropes ends if they are not of sufficient 
 length, the starboard one being taken under the bow- 
 sprit clear of every thing, clap a block on the fore 
 top mast spring stay, reeve a hawser for a yard rope, 
 bend it to the slings of the yard, and stop it out to 
 the yard arm, hook a tackle to the bowsprit end, and 
 to the slings to assist in getting it out, sway out, 
 take through the slack of the lifts and braces, slip 
 the stops and get the yard in its proper place, steady 
 it, hook the tye, pass the parrel lashing, and square 
 it, unreeve the hawser, get the block off the spring 
 stay and tackle from the bowsprit end, reeve the jib 
 guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, 
 turn in dead eyes or cleats, and set them up to others 
 on the bows. 
 
 104. To Get on board Rig and Send aloft Top 
 Gallant and Royal Masts. 
 
 Overhaul the girtlines, send aloft topmast cap, 
 
84 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 and shore together with a small spar to ship the cap 
 with, place the round hole of the cap over the square 
 of the cross trees, get the girtline on the heel of the 
 small spar, point it through the cap and lash them 
 together, white lead the t'^nnor of the mast and the 
 ends of the shore, sway aloft, ship the cap and shore, 
 then beat the former down in its place, hook the top 
 gallant top blocks, round up and reeve the top gal- 
 lant mast rope, the top gallant rigging is fitted on a 
 sheet iron cylinder attached to the jack cross trees 
 (by an order from the Navy Commissioners) leather- 
 ed and painted on the inside, and tarred on the out- 
 side, put on the grummets and strops for the main 
 royal stay to reeve through, then put on the top gal- 
 lant and flying jib stays, starboard and larboard 
 shrouds, breast and standing back stays, and secure 
 them over the top of the cylinder, overhaul the girt- 
 lines, bend them on the rigging, around all parts 
 about the length of the mast head below the Jack, 
 and a good stout stop through the cylinder, sway 
 aloft, cut the stop when high enough and place it 
 over the topmast cap, having the hole in the cylinder 
 directly over the round hole in the cap, and lash it 
 there, cast off and unreeve the girtlines, and reeve 
 the top gallant shrouds through the holes in the cor- 
 ners of the cross trees, over the topmast futtock 
 "staffs, down in the top, where turn in the dead eyes 
 and reeve the lanyards. The royal rigging is rove 
 
85 
 
 through the jacks, over the top gallant futtock staves, 
 down in topmast crosstress, where turned in (in some 
 ships the royal rigging comes straight from the 
 jacks, down into the top, and set up with a gun 
 tackle purchase, the same as a breast back stay) 
 thimbles are spliced in and lanyards. Overhaul the 
 mast rope down through the trusseltrees of the top- 
 mast, and reeve it through the fid hole in the top gal- 
 lant mast, hitch it to its own part and stop it along 
 the top gallant and royal pole, at different distances ; 
 " sway," ease it in board, guy it clear as it goes aloft, 
 point it fair and sway the head a foot or two above 
 the rigging. White lead the royal mast head, send 
 aloft the truck, ship it, reeve the signal halyards and 
 attach the conductor ; " sway higher," get the royal 
 rigging down in its place, also painting above 
 the eyes as before, now light up the rigging and'fid 
 the top gallant mast, set up the top gallant rigging in 
 the top and the royal rigging in the cross trees or 
 the top, steadying the mast by the fore and aft stays 
 and back stays, tack a sheet of lead over the topmast 
 head, to keep the weather out. 
 
 105. To Get on hoard and Rig the Flying Jib- 1 
 boom. 
 To get on board and rig the flying jibboom. Swfay 
 
 it on board and get it on the larboard side of the 
 
 8 
 
86 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 forecastle, clap on a tail block on the jib stay, close 
 down to the boom and through it reeve a heel rope 
 which take through the sheave hole in the heel of 
 the flying jibboom, out again and hitch it to its end, 
 rack both parts together, and make a rope fast to the 
 heel, to serve as a guy, sway out the boom, assisting 
 it with slip ropes, point the end through the withe, 
 and hitch the end of the heel rope to the jibboom 
 end. Cut the stop and rig the boom out a foot or 
 two. Tar the end, put on a grummet and foot ropes, 
 guys and martingale, reeve the martingale, flying 
 jib and royal stays, man the heel rope, rig out the 
 boom, pass the heel and belly lashings, set up the 
 martingale, then stay the fore top gallant and royal 
 mast, fore and aft, by the stays and back stays, 
 reeve the flying jib guys, turn in thimbles and set 
 them up. 
 
 106. To Get on hoard and Rig the Topsail Yards, 
 
 Send aloft and lash a large single block to the 
 topmast head, round up and reeve a hawser through 
 it, overhaul it down forward, hitch it to the slings of 
 the yard, and stop it along the yard arm, get it fore 
 and aft in the gangway on chocks, cast ofi" the hawser, 
 middle the yard, leather and tar the slings, lash on 
 the tye blocks, then the parrel, splice in the parrel 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 87 
 
 lashing, seize the quarter blocks (with a grummet 
 around their strops to prevent spreading,) and then 
 the clewline blocks, rolling tackle and burton strops, 
 tar the yard arms, put on the grummets, jackstays 
 (which reeve through the staples, and set up together 
 in the slings) head earing strops, foot ropes which 
 reeve through stirrups nailed to the yard at equal 
 distances, and set up to the opposite quarters, brace 
 blocks and eye of single lifts, seize on the flemish 
 horses, jewel blocks, see the boom irons on, reeve the 
 braces, and coil the upper lift on the upper yard 
 arm, the lower one in the slings of the yard, a small 
 cleat or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two 
 feet, on each yard arm, to keep the top gallant sheets 
 clear of the yard. 
 
 Note. There are no jewel blocks on the mizen 
 topsail yard. 
 
 107. To Cross the Topsail Yards. 
 
 Bend on the hawser and hook the top burtons to 
 assist in crossing, (it is preferable to use a whip pur- 
 chase with a hawser and jackblock in crossing top- 
 sail yards) get strops round the quarter and hook 
 the burtons, take ^ turn with the parrel lashing, 
 reeve" the lifts, slip the stops and cross the yard, 
 steady it with the lifts and braces, reeve the tyes, 
 
 
88 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 turn in the fly blocks, reeve and haul taut the topsail 
 halyards, pass the parrel lashing properly, and square 
 the yard. 
 
 108. 7b Get on hoard and Rig Lower Yards. 
 
 Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast head, 
 bend on to the slings of the yard, and get them nearly 
 up and down, clap selvages on the quarters and hook 
 the pendant tackles to them, as it comes on board, 
 cut the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, 
 and bousing on the other, until the yard is athwart 
 ship, place chocks in the hammock nettings, rest the 
 yard on them, slue them fair and lash them, come 
 up tackles, cast off the hawsers and place a spar 
 under the middle of the yard to prevent its spring, 
 ing, measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit 
 a saddle for the D. thimble, which lash on with a 
 piece of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut 
 with a Spanish windlass, and fitting the score of the 
 D. thimblCj cover all with leather and fit the strops 
 for the preventer slings, fit on truss strops, pendants, 
 qudrter and clue garnet blocks having a stout grum- 
 met around the strops of the quarter blocks, to pre- 
 vent spreading, to the middle of this grummet seize 
 a slab line block, fit the rolling tackle, burton and 
 quarter lift strops, tar the yard arms and (seize the 
 
YOUN« sailor's assistant! 89 
 
 leech line blocks to the jack stay with a leg long 
 enough to allow the block sufficient play to brace up) 
 put on head earing strops, foot ropes, yard tackle 
 strops, lift and brace blocks. 
 
 Note. A piece of well stretched rope is thought 
 to be preferable to a strand in lashing on a D thim- 
 ble, as it cannot absorb the water so freely. 
 
 The cross jack yards has no jack stay, head ear- 
 ings or yard tackle strops, and the brace blocks in- 
 stead of going over the yard arm are put on some 
 distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen top- 
 sail sheets. 
 
 109. To Get aloft the Lower Yards, 
 
 Send aloft and lash the jeer blocks, reeve the pen- 
 dants and falls, hitch the pendants around the quar- 
 ters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D thim- 
 ble, and take the yard tackles forward, to keep the 
 yard clear of the mast, reeve the lifts and braces, 
 man the lifts and jeer falls ; "swtiy away," and when 
 the yard comes abreast of the futtock staves, pass the 
 lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, and leather 
 over all, frap all parts together, and cover all with 
 canvass, reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, 
 reeve the falls, haul taut the trusses, square the yard 
 by the lifts and braces. 
 
 8* 
 
90 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Note. The cross jack yard may be got aloft by 
 the pendant tackles, hooked to the lower cap, or 
 through a strop passed through the pigeon hole of 
 the top, the mast head slings have a back lashing 
 passed abaft the mast head, half way between the 
 cap and top. 
 
 110. To Get on hoard the Spanker Boom and 
 Gaff. 
 
 The spanker boom, trysail mast and gaff, may be 
 got on board by the yard and stay tackle. Put the 
 hoops on the trysail mast, and stop them ; sway 
 away by a pendant tackle, point the mast head through 
 the after chock of the trusseltrees, stop and lash its 
 head to the mizen mast head, leather the boom in 
 the wake of the crutch, seize on sheet blocks and 
 reeve the sheets, tar the boom, put over the foot 
 ropes, which set up, just out outside of the taffrail and 
 boom guys, which go with a gun tackle purchase to 
 the quarters, hook the topping lift to an iron span 
 around the boom, lea3 them up through cheek blocks 
 bolted to the mizen bibbs, and set up in the channel 
 with a luff purchase, ship and key the boom, seize 
 on a cleat for theouthaulers,to belay to, then leather 
 the jaws of the gaff, fit throat and peak halyard 
 blocks, brail blocks, vangs and blocks, reeve throat 
 
and peak halyards, hoist up the gaff, and haul taut 
 the vangs. 
 
 Note. The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly the 
 same way. 
 
 111. To Get on hoard and Rig Top Gallant 
 Yards, 
 
 They are got on board, like the topsail yards. 
 Leather the slings, seize on D. thimble, parrel and 
 quarter blocks, rolling tackle strops, tar the yard arms, 
 put on the jack stays, head earing strops, foot ropes, 
 braces and lifts ; nail on the stirrups^ seize on the 
 foot ropes and set up the jack stays, fit the yard 
 ropes, having lizards and tripping lines, with a grum- 
 met to go round the yard rope ; when going aloft, 
 bend on the yard rope, and stop the top gallant yard 
 in the rigging, the main on the starboard side, fore 
 and mizen on the larboard side. 
 
 Note. When the lower stays are fitted with mou- 
 sings, it is customary to have them on the side oppo- 
 site to that which the top gallant yards are stopped 
 up and down. The royal yards have a D. Thimble, 
 clue line blocks, head earing strops and foot ropes ; 
 the lifts and braces are single, and the eyes which 
 go over the yard arm are stopped together. The yard 
 ropes are fitted the same as those of the top gallant 
 
92 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 yard, they are stopped in the rigging the reverse of 
 the top gallant yard. 
 
 112. To rig a Lower Studding Sail Boom. 
 
 Hoist np, ship and key the boom, put on single 
 blocks for forward and after guys, reeve, hook, and 
 haul taut the topping lifts. 
 
 113. To rig a Topmast Studding Sail Boom, 
 
 Send the boom aloft by two jiggers, one , on the 
 lower lift, and the other one under the forward part 
 of the top, point the boom and clamp the inner iron, 
 put on the tack and lower studding sail halyard 
 blocks, boom lift and brace ; over the heel, straps for 
 boom jiggers and heel lashmg. 
 
 114. To Rig Top Gallant Studding Sail Boom. 
 
 Sway it aloft like a top mast steering sail boom, 
 fit a tack block and strap for heel lashing. 
 
 115.. Note. — Rig the Boat and Fish Davits. 
 Unreeve all the girtlines, yard ropes, mast 
 
93 
 
 ropes and top pendants, unlash and send down all 
 blocks which are used in rigging spars, unreeve 
 your falls and heel ropes, haul taut top burtons, 
 pendant tackles, stay the mast, seize all blocks in 
 their proper places and reeve the running rigging. 
 
 116. To Cut the Lower Rigging. 
 
 Take the length from the larboard side of the 
 main mast head, to the forward dead eye in the star- 
 board channels from the section drafts, which set off 
 on the floor of the rigging loft, and stick in a marline 
 spike at each extremity, the shrouding stuff being 
 stretched, stop one end to one of the marline spikes, 
 take the bight around the other and back again, and 
 this is the first pair of shrouds, pass it around again 
 (outside at each end) for the second pair, and con- 
 tinue on in this manner until shrouds enough are 
 warped off. Take one and a half or one and a quar- 
 ter circumference of the mast head, as may be judg- 
 ed most proper, and chalk it off upon the bights of 
 the eyes also, chalk off the distance for the service 
 to go on, which is generally about the middle third, 
 mark the shrouds, and cut them at the peg in an an- 
 gular direction, so that the after legs will be a little 
 longer than the forward ones, put them on a stretch, 
 and worm them in wake of the service ; begin at each 
 
94 
 
 end where the service is to leave off, and parcel upwards, 
 to file middle of the eye, where commence serving 
 and "go downwards on each leg, the eye seizings are 
 round ones, and when clapt on, the whole eye is 
 neatly covered with parcelling, a half sister block is 
 sometimes put between the two forward shrouds for 
 the lower boom topping lift to lead through in seiz- 
 ing on sister blocks, the top of the block should be 
 once of the circumference of the rope below the eye 
 seizing, dead eyes are always turned in with the lay 
 of the rope, having throat quarter and end seizings ; to 
 distinguish the fore from the main shrouds, mark the 
 fore with marline, the main with house line, should 
 these marks get off, the fore and main can easily be 
 distinguished by lengths, the starboard shrouds are 
 all shorter than the corresponding larboard ones, by 
 the diameter of the rope, therefore, take the shortest 
 pair for the first pair of starboard shrouds, and the 
 next pair for the first pair of larboard shrouds. 
 
 117. The Topmast and Top Gallant Rigging, 
 
 Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the top mast 
 rigging, always seize on a sister block between the 
 two forward shrouds for the topsail lift and reef 
 tackles, the swifters are generally served the whole 
 length ; the eyes of the top gallant rigging are made 
 
 
95 
 
 to fit exactly around the cylinder, if there is an odd 
 topmast or top gallant shroud on each side, they are 
 either fitted with a horse shoe eye, or go together 
 with a cut splice. 
 
 118. The Breast and Standing Back Stays, 
 
 These may be cut by the same rule, the eyes of 
 the breast back stays are fitted in diflerent ways, 
 they are sometimes spanned togethel making a square 
 the size of the mast head, sometimes they have an 
 eye like the shrouds, made to fit close, and others, 
 a small thimble is seized in the bight, and they are 
 lashed around the mast head ; the eyes of the stand- 
 ing back stays are like those of the shrouds. 
 
 119. The Catharpin Legs and Futtock Shrouds, 
 
 Take one third the breadth of the top, and lay on 
 that distance from the eye seizing, down upon the 
 shrouds, each side, draw a line across which will re- 
 present the catharpins, and measured upon the scale 
 will give their length, splice in eyes at each end, 
 worm, parcel, serve and leather them, the distance 
 from the extremity of the top and this line upon the 
 shroud, will give the length of the futtock shrouds. 
 
96 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 which must have a hook and thimble in their upper 
 ends, and a thimble in their lower ends. 
 
 120. To Cut the Fore and Aft Stay, 
 
 Measure from the after parts of the mast head, 
 where the stays set up, and to the distance add the 
 lenofth of the mast head for collars. 
 
 Collars for stays are the length of their respective 
 mast head. The housings are to be raised one and a 
 half the size of the stays, and at a distance equal to 
 twice the length of the mast head from the mousing. 
 A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay 
 rove through it, or they may be fitted with lashing 
 eyes, in which case each leg is the length of the 
 mast head, the service is continued the length of the 
 eye below the mousing, and then the collars are 
 leathered, the hearts are turned in with the lay of 
 the rope. Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and 
 leathered in the wake of all nipps, such as the bees, 
 bullock blocks, and sheave holes. 
 
 121. To Cut the Runner Pendants. 
 
 The forward pair should be twice the length of 
 the mast head ; the after pair twice and a half; the 
 thimbles are spliced in the ends, they are wormed 
 
"m 
 
 YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 97 
 
 or spanned together, so as to form a span to fit the 
 mast head. 
 
 122. Bob Stays. 
 
 The bob stays are cut twice the length from the 
 collars, on the bowsprit, to their respective holes in 
 the cutwater. They are wormed, parcelled and served, 
 the whole length, and leathered in the nipp, after 
 which they are rove through the Jioles, spliced to- 
 gether, and the dead eyes are turned in, in the wake 
 of the splice. 
 
 123. To Cut Bo%o sprit Shrouds. 
 
 The length from the bowsprit to the eyebolts, in 
 the bows, a dead eye or heart is spliced into one end 
 and a hook and thimble in the other. 
 
 124. The Jib and Flying Jib Guys. 
 
 From the boom end to the bows, making a small 
 allowance for reeving, through the straps on the 
 spritsail yard, they are generally fitted with a cuc- 
 kold's neck, over the boom end, and set up with dead 
 
 eyes to the bows. The cuckold's neck is served or 
 
 9 
 
i 
 
 98 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 covered with canvass. The guys in the wake of the 
 spritsail yard are leathered. The martingales must be 
 cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are rove. 
 
 125. The Running Rigging. 
 
 The running rigging is cut as it is rove, making 
 due allowance for the hands to clap on. 
 
 126. The Main and Main taring Stays. 
 
 Are lead down ; the former on the starboard side, 
 the latter on the larboard side of the fore mast, and 
 set up to hearts bolted to the breast hooks, or around 
 the bitts on their own ports. 
 
 127. The Mizen Stay. 
 
 Is fitted with a shark's mouth, and lashed to eye 
 boltSj abreast the main partners. 
 
 ] 28. The Fore Topmast and Spring Stays. 
 
 Lead through bees, the former on the starboard 
 side, the latter through the hanks, and then through 
 the larboard bees, through strops around the bowsprit, 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 99 
 
 and either have dead eyes turned in their ends, and 
 set up to the bows, or else on their own parts. 
 
 129. The Jib Stay. 
 
 Is frequently lashed to the collar of the fore top- 
 mast spring stay, rove through hanks, the traveller, 
 and inner sheave hole in the jib boom, and leads in 
 by the jib boom, and has a double block turned in its 
 end and sets up to a single one. 
 
 130. The Main Topmast Stay. 
 
 Reeves through a bullock block stropped around 
 the foremast head, above the rigging, down abaft the 
 foremast, and sets up to an eye bolt in the deck. The 
 spring stay leads up through a block stropped around 
 the foremast, above the cat harpins, and sets up in 
 the foretop. The mizen topmast stay leads through a 
 block, stropped around the main mast above the rig- 
 ging, and sets up on its own part. 
 
 131. The Fore Top Gallant Stay. 
 
 Reeves through the outer sheave hole in the jib 
 boom, and through a bull's eye, hooked to the bows 
 and sets up on its own parts. 
 
 4 
 
100 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 132. The Flying' Jib Stay. 
 
 Reeves through the inner sheave hole in the flying 
 jib boom, and sets up hke the fore top-gallant stay. 
 
 133. The Main Top-gallant Stay. 
 
 Reeves through the middle sheave in the after 
 chock of the fore topmast crosstrees, or through a 
 block stropped around the fore topmast head, and 
 sets up in the fore top. 
 
 134. The Mizen Top-gallant Stay. 
 
 Reeves through a bull's eye in the after part of the 
 main cap, and sets up in the main top. 
 
 135. The Fore Royal Stay. 
 
 Reeves through the outer sheave hole in flying jib 
 boom ends, and sets up at the bow. 
 
 136. The Main Royal Stay. 
 
 ■ Reeves through a thimble, stopped around the fore 
 top-gallant mast head, and sets up in the crosstrees. 
 
101 
 
 137. The Boh Stays. 
 
 After being rove, are set up to their respective collars 
 on the bowsprit. 
 
 138. The Bowsprit Shrouds. 
 
 After being hooked to their eye bolts in the booms, 
 are set up to their collars on the bowsprits. 
 
 The gobblines are either clove hitched, or may go 
 with a cuckold's neck around the end of the dolphin 
 striker, and sets up to the bows one on each side. 
 
 139. Jib Martingale Stays. 
 
 The jib martingale stay has a knot cast in the end 
 and reeves through the upper sheave hole, in the 
 dolphin striker, leaving the knot on the after side ; 
 then through the block at the jib boom end, down 
 again through the sheave hole in the dolphin striker, 
 up through the fair leader, on the bowsprit, and sets 
 up to the bows. 
 
 140. Plying Jib Martingale Stays. 
 
 Goes over the boom and through the lower sheave 
 in the dolphin striker, up through the fair leader, and 
 sets up to the bows. 
 
 9* 
 
 i 
 
102 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 141. Breast Back Stays. 
 
 Have double blocks turned in their ends and set 
 up through thrimble ones in the channels. 
 
 142. All Standing Back Stays. 
 
 Have a dead eye turned in their ends, and set up 
 to others in the channels, with the exception of the 
 fore, main, and mizen top-gallant back stays, which 
 set up on their own parts. 
 
 143. To Reeve Running Rigging. 
 
 The lower lifts have single blocks on the yard 
 arms, and a double one fitted to the lower cap. The 
 standing part is made fast to the yard arm, then reeves 
 down through the after sheave in the double block 
 at the cap, out again through the single block on the 
 yard arm, and then down through the forward sheave 
 in the double block at cap. 
 
 ^ 144. The Quarter Lifts. 
 
 Are hooked to strops around the lower cap, and 
 to the quarter lift strops on the yard. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 103 
 
 145. The Topsail Lifts. 
 
 Go with a single eye over the yard arms, up 
 through the lower sheave hole in the sister block in 
 the topmast rigging, and lead in the tops. 
 
 146. The Reef Tackles. 
 
 Reeve through the upper sheave hole in the sister 
 block at the mast head, through the outer sheave 
 hole in the yard arm, down through the block in the 
 leach of the topsail, and the end is clinched around 
 the yard arm. 
 
 Note. The more approved plan, is to have pen- 
 dants and whipps. 
 
 147. The Top-gallant Lifts. 
 
 Are single, and are seized together, or marled with 
 the braces ; they lead through a half sister block, 
 in the top-gallant rigging down into the tops. 
 
 148. The Royal Lifts. 
 
 Are fitted, and go in the same manner, as the top- 
 gallant lifts. 
 
104 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 149. Sprits ail Lifts. 
 
 Are generally" single, with an eye over the yard 
 arm, with the end rove through a single block on the 
 bowsprit cap ; and then leads in board. 
 
 150. Lower Boom Topping Lifts. 
 
 Are fitted to reeve through a block, between the 
 forward pair of shrouds, and hook with sister hooks 
 to an eye bolt in a band on the lower studdingsail 
 boom. 
 
 151. Top Mast Studding Sail Boom Topping 
 Lifts. 
 
 Are fitted, to go with an eye over the boom end, 
 through a block in the mast head pendant, and then 
 down on deck. 
 
 152. Spanker Boom Topping Lifts. 
 
 Hook to a strop on the boom, lead through cheek 
 blocks, bolted to the mizen mast, and set up in the 
 mizen channels, with a luif purchase. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 105 
 
 153. Fore Braces. 
 
 The standing parts, are clove hitched below the 
 mousing of the main stay, the other part rove through 
 the block on the yard, back again through the blocks 
 bolted to the main bibbs, then down by the main 
 mast to the deck. 
 
 154. Fore Topsail Braces, 
 
 The standing part, is made fast to the main top- 
 mast head, stopped down to the collar of the stay as 
 far as the splice, through the block on the yard arm, 
 then through a single block lashed to the main stay, 
 a little below the mousing, through leading blocks 
 under the top, and down by the main mast to the 
 deck. 
 
 155. Fore Top Gallant Braces. 
 
 The standing part is made fast to the main top 
 mast head, rove through a block on the yard arm, 
 back through a block on the main top mast stays, 
 then through leading blocks under the cross trees ^ 
 and down by the main mast. 
 
106 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 156. Fore Royal Braces. 
 
 A single eye goes over the yard arm, and then 
 reeves through a block lashed under the eyes of the 
 main top gallant rigging, and down on deck by the 
 main mast. 
 
 157. The Main Braces, 
 
 The standing part goes over the bumpkin end by 
 the quarter. galleries, through the blocks on the yard, 
 back again through a block on the bumpkin, and in 
 on deck. 
 
 158. The Main Topsail Braces. 
 
 The standing part is made fast to the mizen top- 
 mast head, then stopped down the mizen topmast 
 stay, below the splice, rove through the block on the 
 yard arm, down through the block fitted with a pen- 
 dant around the mizen mast, and down on deck. 
 
 159. The Main Top Gallant Braces, 
 
 The standing part makes fast to the mizen top 
 gallant mast head, then leads through the block on 
 
107 
 
 the yard arm, through a block on the mizen top 
 mast stay below the splice. 
 
 160. Main Royal Braces. 
 
 A single eye goes over the yard arm, and leads 
 through a block seized on the top gallant stay and 
 down on deck. 
 
 161. Cross Jack Braces. 
 
 Standing part is made fast to the after main swif- 
 ter a little above the futtock staffs, it then leads 
 through a block on the yard, back through a block 
 on the after swifter, seized in a line with the futtock 
 staffs and down on deck. 
 
 162. Mizen Top sail Braces. 
 
 Standing part is made fast to the main cap, leads 
 through a block on the yard, back through a block 
 at the cap, down on deck. 
 
 163. Mizen Top Gallant Braces. 
 Are fitted with an eye over the yard arm, reeves 
 
108 
 
 through a sheave hole in the after chock of the main 
 topmast crosstrees, down on deck. 
 
 1 64. Mizen Royal Braces. 
 
 Are fitted with a single eye, and go in the same 
 manner as the mizen top gallant braces. 
 
 165. Sprit Sail Br aces » 
 
 Standing part makes fast to the collar of the 
 fore stay, through the block on the yard, through the 
 block under the fore top, and down on deck by the 
 foremast. 
 
 166. Topmast Studding Sail Boom Braces. 
 
 A long pendant goes over the boom end with an 
 eye splice, and a single block spliced in the end. 
 The standing part of the brace makes fast to the 
 main rigging, the other end reeves through the block 
 in the pendants, then through a block in the main 
 rigging, down on deck. 
 
 167. Bowlines. 
 The fore bowline reeves through a block two 
 
109 
 
 thirds out on the bowsprit, and then in on deck, to 
 the fore casile. 
 
 168. Fore Top Bowline 
 
 Reeves through a block on the bowsprit, in on the 
 fore castle. 
 
 169. Fore Top Gallant Boxoline 
 
 Reeves through a block at the jib boom end, 
 through the fair leader on the bowsprit and in board 
 on the fore castle. 
 
 170. Fore Royal Bowline 
 
 Reeves through a block at the flying jib boom 
 end, in through the fair leader, the same as the fore 
 top gallant bowline. 
 
 171. Main Bowline, 
 
 The main bowline is a runner and tackle, the 
 standing part made fast to the running part and be- 
 layed to the fore fife rail. 
 
 10 
 
 '\ 
 
110 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 172. Main Top Bowline 
 
 Reeves through a block, bolted to the after part of 
 the fore trusseltrees, down on deck to the side. 
 
 173. Main Top Gallant Bowline 
 
 Reeves through the sheave hole in the after chock 
 in the fore topmast cross trees, then leads on deck. 
 
 174. Main Royal Bowlines 
 Lead similar to the fore royal bowlines. 
 
 175. The Mizen Top Bowlines 
 
 Reeve through a block seized to the after main 
 swifter- 
 
 176. The Mizen Top Gallant Bowlines 
 
 Reeve through a sheave in the chock of the main 
 top mast crosstrees, down on deck. 
 
 177. The Mizen Royal Bowlines. 
 Lead similar to the fore and main 
 
Ill 
 
 178. Fore Topmast Stay /Sail Halyards. 
 
 The standing part is seized or hitched to the fore 
 topmeist spring stay, then rove through a block in 
 the head of the sail, up through a leading block, un- 
 der the eyes of the topmast rigging, then down on 
 the larboard side to the deck abaft the foremast. 
 
 179. Jib Halyards 
 
 Are bent and rove like the stay sail, leading down 
 on the starboard side of the deck. 
 
 180. Flying Jib Halyards 
 
 Are a single rope hitched to the head of the flying 
 jib, leading through a single block at the fore top 
 gallant mast head, down on deck the larboard side. 
 
 181. Fore Top Sail Halyards. 
 
 The end of the tye clinches around the topmast 
 head, reeves through a block on the yard, up through 
 the ginns of the mast head, and has a thimble spliced 
 in the end, a double block is attached to this thimble 
 with sister hooks, and the halyards are rove like a 
 
112 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 luff purchase, connecting the double block with a 
 single one in the channels, there being two tyes and 
 two halyards, one on each side. 
 
 182. The Main Top Sail Halyards 
 Are fitted the same as the fore ones in all respects. 
 
 183. The Mizen Topsail Halyards 
 
 Have only one tye, which reeves through the 
 sheave hole in the mizen topmast head. 
 
 184. Fore Top Gallant Halyards, 
 
 The tye hooks to a thimble and reeves through a 
 sheave hole at the mast head. The halyards are a luff 
 purchase, the double block hooked to the tye, and 
 the single one to a strop around the lower trussel- 
 trees, the fall leading on deck. 
 
 185. Main Top Gallant Halyards 
 Lead the same as the fore ones. 
 
 t^« 
 
U3 
 186. Mizen Top Gallant Halyards 
 
 Have no purchase, but are long, and lead single on 
 deck. 
 
 187. Fore, Main, and Mizen Royal Halyards 
 
 Are all single, and lead similar to the mizen top 
 gallant halyards. 
 
 188. Main Topmast Stay sail Halyards. 
 
 The standing part is hitched to the collar of the 
 main topmast spring stay, reeving through a block 
 in the head of the sail, up through a leading block 
 at the main topmast head and down on deck. 
 
 189. Mizen Stay Sail Halyards 
 
 Are hitched to' the collar of the stay sail stay, reev- 
 ing through a block in the head of the sail, then 
 through a leader, and lead down on deck. 
 
 190. Gaff Throat Halyards 
 
 Are a luff purchase. The single block hooks to an 
 10* 
 
114 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 eye bolt in the jaws of the gaff, and the double one 
 to another in the mizen trussletrees. 
 
 191. Peak Halyards. 
 
 The standing part goes on the gaff end, leads 
 through a double block at the cap, and out through 
 a single block on the gaff, up again through the 
 double block at the cap, and down on deck. 
 
 192. Lower Studding Sail Halyards. 
 
 The outer ones are taken through the lubber's 
 hole, rove through a block in the end of a mast head 
 pendant, out through a block-at the end of the stud- 
 ding sail boom, and bent to the yard ; the inner 
 halyards lead through two single blocks on the fore 
 yard, the one without the other, and is bent to the 
 inner head cringle. 
 
 193. Top Mast Studding Sail Halyards 
 
 Are rove through span blocks, at the top mast 
 head, then through the jewel blocks, at the yard arm, 
 and bent to the yard. 
 
> 
 
 11& 
 
 194. Fore Top Mast Stay Sail Downhaul 
 
 Is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through the 
 hanks, then through a block seized to the tack of 
 the sail, and leads in on deck, through the fair leader, 
 to the fore castle. 
 
 195. Jih Downhaul 
 
 Is hitched to the head of the sail, then rove through 
 the hanks, the same as the stay sail downhaul, then 
 rove through a block seized to the traveller and lead 
 in on deck, through the fair leader, to the starboard 
 side of the fore castle. 
 
 196. Flying Jih Downhaul 
 
 Is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through 
 the hanks, then through a block at the end of the 
 boom, and in on deck, the same as the others. 
 
 197. Top Sail Downhauls 
 
 Are either luff or gun tackle purchases, hooked 
 to strops around the slings of the yard, and another 
 through the pigeon hole of the top. 
 
116 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 198. Main Topmast Stay Sail Downhaul 
 
 Is clinched to the head of the sail, then rove 
 through the hanks, through a block at the tack of 
 the sail, and down by the foremast. 
 
 199. Mizen Stay Sail Downhaul 
 
 Is clinched to the head of the sail, rove through 
 the hanks, down the mizen stay. 
 
 200. Topmast Studding Sail Downhaul 
 
 Bends to the yard arm, reeves through a bull's 
 eye in the leach of the sail^ then through a single 
 block at the tack, and in on deck. 
 
 201. Top Gallant Studding- Sail Downhaul 
 Bends to the yard arm and leads to the top. 
 
 202. Royal Studding Sail Downhaul 
 
 Is bent to the yard, and leads in the same man- 
 ner as the top gallant studding sail downhaul. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT.' 117 
 
 203. Main Tack 
 
 Is hooked to an eye bolt in the gangway, then 
 rove through a block in the clew of the sail, then 
 leads through a block in the gangway and belayed 
 to a cavel. 
 
 The fore tack is hooked to the fore bumpkin, then 
 rove through a block in the clew of the sail, out 
 through another block at the bumpkin end, and in 
 on the fore castle. 
 
 204. l^he Jib and Fore Topmast Stay Sail Tacks 
 Are simple lashings. 
 
 205. The Spanker Tack 
 Is a small gun tackle purchase. 
 
 206. Topmast^ Top Gallant^ and Royal Studding 
 Sail Tacks. 
 
 The topmast studding sail tack is bent to the 
 tack of the sail, rove throuorh a block on the end of 
 the boom. The fore, leading aft to a block, in the 
 forward part of the main rigging. 
 
 The main leads through a sheave hole in the 
 bulwark abaft. 
 
118 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 The top gallant and royal studding sail tacks, are 
 bent in the same manner and lead in their respective 
 :ops. 
 
 207. Main Topmast Stay Sail Tack 
 
 Reeves through a block, in the weather fore rig- 
 ging- 
 
 208. Lower Studding Sail Outhaul 
 
 Is bent to the tack of the sail, rove through a 
 block at the boom end, and leads in through a lead- 
 ing block in the gangway. 
 
 209, Spanker Outhaul. 
 
 The end is clinched around the boom end, rove 
 through a block in the clew of the sail, then out 
 through a sheave hole in the boom end, and belayed 
 to a cleat lashed to the boom. 
 
 210. Fore arid Main Sheets 
 Are hooked with sister hooks to bolts in the ship's 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 119 
 
 side, then rove through the block in the clew of the 
 sail, and lead in through a sheave hole in the side. 
 
 211. Top Sail Sheets 
 
 Are clinched around the lower yard arms, then 
 rove through the blocks in the clew of the sail, 
 through the sheave holes in the yard arms, in again 
 through the quarter blocks, and lead down on deck 
 to the topsail sheet bitts, where they are belayed. 
 
 212. Top Gallant and Royal Sheets 
 
 Are clinched to the clews of the sail, rove through 
 the sheave hole in the yard arms, in through the 
 quarter blocks, and lead on deck. 
 
 Note. The royal sheet leads only as far as the top. 
 
 213. Fore Topmast Stay Sail and Jib Sheets. 
 
 Pendants lashed to the clew of the sails, with a 
 block in the end, through which the sheets are rove, 
 the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in the 
 bows, and the running part is led in on the fore 
 castle. 
 
120 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 214. Flyijig Jib Sheets 
 
 Are lashed to the clew of the sail, rove through a 
 block on the spritsail yard, and lead in on the fore 
 castle. 
 
 215. Mizen Stay Sail Sheet 
 
 Is a runner,' leading through a snatch block and 
 thimble. 
 
 The main topmast stay sail sheet makes fast to 
 the clew of the sail, and leads down in the gangway. 
 
 216. Spanker Sheets 
 
 Are luff purchases, reeving through a double 
 block on the boom and a single one bolted to the 
 taffrail. 
 
 217. Loioer Studding Sail Sheets. 
 
 The short sheet reeves through a block, hooked in 
 the side or in the channels ; the long one leads in on 
 the fore castle. 
 
 218. Topmast Studding Sail Sheets. 
 The short one leads through a thimble on the 
 
121 
 
 lower yard, into the top, the long one leads down on 
 the fore castle. 
 
 219. The Top-gallant and Royal Studding /Sail 
 Sheets 
 
 All lead in the top. 
 
 220. Clue Garnets. 
 
 The fore and main clue garnets are hitched to the 
 yards, then rove through a block lashed in the clews 
 of the sail, up through a block on the quarter of the 
 yard, down to the fife rail. 
 
 221. Topsail and Top-gallant Clewlines 
 
 Are rove the same as clew garnets. 
 Note. Some ships have them to go with whips 
 and pendants. 
 
 222. Royal Clewlines 
 
 Are hitched to the clews of the sails rove through 
 
 the quarter blocks on the yard, and lead either in the 
 
 tops, or on deck. 
 
 I 11 
 
 
122 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 . 223. Lower Studding Sail Clewlines 
 
 Are hitched to the outer clew of the sail, rove 
 through a block at the inner yard arm, then through 
 a block on the fore yard, and are led down on deck. 
 
 224. Fore and Main Buntlines 
 
 Aredonble. The upper legs reeve through the upper 
 sheave in the shoe block, then through a double block 
 under the tops, and both parts are toggled or clenched 
 to the foot of the courses, forward of the sail. 
 
 The lower legs are rove through the lower sheave 
 of the shoe block, and forms a whip ; the standing 
 part seizing to the main stays by the fore mast, and 
 the other part is manned in hauling up the sail. 
 
 Note. The fore buntlines lead down by the after 
 fore swifter, and belay to the side, or life rail. 
 
 225. Top Sail Buntlines 
 
 Are clinched in the foot of the sail, then reeve 
 through a thimble, lashed to the yard, up through 
 leading blocks under the fore part of the topmast 
 crosstrees, and down on deck. 
 
 4l^1f^^ 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 123 
 
 226. Top-gallant Buntlines 
 
 Are hitched to a span in the foot of the sail ; leads 
 through a block at the top-gallant mast head, and 
 down on deck. 
 
 Note, Slablines are hitched to the middle of a 
 span at the foot of the sail, leads up abaft, and reeves 
 through a block lashed to a grummet, around the 
 strops of the quarter blocks of the lower yards, and 
 down on deck. 
 
 227. Leach Lines 
 
 The forward leach lines are rove through the up- 
 per sheave hole of a shoe block, both parts are then 
 rove through a double block, hooked with a pendant 
 to the lower cap, then through two single blocks, 
 seized to the jack stays on the yards, and are clinched 
 to the leaches of the courses before the sail. 
 
 228. The Lower Legs 
 
 Are rove through the other sheave hole, in the shoe 
 block, the standing part is made fast to the fife rail, 
 the other end being used to haul up the sails. 
 
 229. After Leach Lines. 
 Are rove through blocks on the underneath part 
 
124 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 of the yard, and clinched to the courses abaft the sail, 
 to the same places, as the forward ones. 
 
 230. Spanker Brails. 
 
 The middle brail, and peak brail, are seized to the 
 after leach of the sail, leading up through cheeks 
 bolted on each side of the gaff, through leading blocks, 
 bolted on each side of the jaws of the gaff, and down 
 on deck. 
 
 The foot brails are rove through a block lashed to 
 a hoop one third or thereabouts up the trysail mast. 
 
 231. Try Sail Brails 
 
 Are rove like the spanker brails. Themizen stay- 
 sail brails are clinched in the after clew of the sail, 
 led up through a block seized to the upper part of the 
 luff of the sail and lead on deck. 
 
 232. Main Topmast Stay Sail Brails 
 
 \ Are seized to the leach of the sail, lead up through 
 
 the hanks to a block seized to the upper hank, and 
 act as a downhaul also. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 125 
 
 233. Jih Brails 
 
 Are seized to the clew of the sail, and lead through 
 a block seized to a hank, down through another at 
 the end of the jib boom, and in on the fore castle. 
 
 234. Jih and Flying Jih Guys 
 
 Are fitted over their respective boom ends, and lead 
 in through thimbles stopped on the spritsail yard* 
 having dead eyes, spliced, or turned in their ends, 
 setting up to others at the bows. 
 
 235. Lower Boom Guys 
 
 The standing part of the forward guy is made fast 
 to the spritsail yard, then rove through a block on a 
 boom, back again through a block on the bowsprit 
 cap, and lead in on the fore castle. 
 
 236. The After Guys 
 
 Are hooked to an eyebolt in the side abaft the fore 
 
 channels, then rove through a block on the boom 
 
 and leads in through a sheave hole in the side above 
 
 where the standing part is hooked. 
 IX* 
 
126 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 237. The Spanker Boom Guys 
 
 Have a pendant which is fitted to go over the 
 boom end, and sets up on the quarter with a gun 
 tackle purchase. 
 
 238. Storm Stay Sail Gear. 
 
 The storm stay sail stays are lashed around their 
 respective mast heads, or toggled in the crutch of the 
 lower stays, and set up near the proper stays, the hal- 
 yards and dovvnhauls being rove in the same manner 
 as the other stay sails, using luff purchases for the 
 sheets. 
 
 239. The Middle^ Lower^ and Upper Top-gallant 
 Stay Sails J and Jack Stays, 
 
 May be fitted in one. In this case a double block is 
 turned in, and lashed to the after part of the fore top- 
 mast crosstrees, or mast head, the lower part is set 
 up in the fore top, the upper part, at the fore top-gal- 
 lant mast head. 
 
 The middle stay sail stays, are rove through a sin- 
 gle block, stropped to the topmast, down on the cap. 
 
 The lower and upper top-gallant stay sail stays, 
 are rove through blocks, fitted to traverse the jack 
 stay, with lock thimbles, the former being rove 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 127 
 
 through the other sheave of the double blocn at the 
 topmast crosstrees, the latter through a block at the 
 fore top-gallant mast head, and both are led on deck. 
 
 240. The Downhaul Blocks 
 
 Are single and are seized to the strops of the tricing 
 line blocks. The halyards are whips, hitched to the 
 collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head 
 of the sail, through leading blocks at the mast head, 
 down on the quarter deck. 
 
 The downhauls are hitched to the head of the 
 sail, rove through the hanks, and through the down- 
 haul blocks, and lead in on deck. The tacks are 
 single, and lead in the fore top, the sheets are also 
 single leading in the gangways. 
 
 241. To Stow the Hold and Spirit Room. Ballast. 
 
 See that the limbers are clear from chips or dirt, 
 and place the limber boards. Clean, sweep, and 
 whitewash the hold, place hoop poles athwart ships 
 for dunnage, as near to each other as possible, so that 
 each pig of iron will rest at least on two of them. 
 Have the rust well beaten off the ballast, and white- 
 wash each pig. Each pig should be weighed, after 
 which strike it, stow it according to the mould of the 
 
128 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 vessel and to her best sailing trim, always observing 
 to have the same number of pigs on each side of the 
 kelson. 
 
 The ballast in the spirit room should be a contin- 
 uation of that in the hold. Make a draft of the bal- 
 last, indicating the exact number of pigs, the exact 
 position which they occupy, and their exact weight. 
 
 242. To Stow the Casks. 
 
 Strike down their beds, place and whitewash them ; 
 then strike below the water casks, commencing at the 
 after bulkhead in the hold ; the kelson tier — observing 
 to have the largest cask in that tier, and the guages 
 of the casks on each side of the kelson, to correspond. 
 Be careful that the bung holes are all up, and the 
 bilge free, and head clear. 
 
 After completing the first tier, go on with the se- 
 cond, placing hanging beds between the casks, and 
 stowing barked wood in all the breakages. As the 
 tiers approach the wings, let the size of the cask di- 
 minish. When the ground tier is all finished, fill and 
 bung the casks. Stow the riding tiers in the cunt- 
 lines of the ground tiers, fill and bung them up ; the 
 stowage being commenced abaft, all breakage will be 
 forward. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 129 
 
 243. Stowage of Naval /Stores. 
 
 Stow the beef on the larboard side, and the pork 
 on the starboard side, with the flour, rice and beans 
 in the wings, chocking all oflf, fore and aft with 
 wood. The casks in the spirit rooms are stowed in 
 the same manner, with the exception that the stow- 
 age is commenced forward, instead of abaft. Whis- 
 key, molasses and vinegar are always stowed in 
 casks. The liquors of the medical department, and 
 pursers stores are generally stowed in the spirit 
 room. 
 
 Make a draft of the ground tier, and riding tiers, 
 and spirit rooms. 
 
 Note. The guages of all casks upon the draft, 
 the number of barrels, boxes, <fcc., with the kind of 
 provisions which they contain. 
 
 The shot and wads may now be got on board and 
 stowed in their respective lockers. 
 
 244. To Get on Board the Cables. 
 
 The cables are taken from the rope walks, and 
 coiled upon a car, having a large hole in its bottom, 
 after being transported to the wharf where the light- 
 ers are, the upper end of the coil is taken down 
 through all the flakes, and through the hole in the 
 
130 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 bottom of the car, then coiled away again in the 
 lighter. By dipping the end in this manner grinds 
 or kinks are prevented, and the cable is got into the 
 lighter, with only one turn in it. 
 
 Hemp cables are a hundred and twenty fathoms 
 in length, a seventy four gun ship, or a frigate gene- 
 rally has five, a sloop of war three. 
 
 The lighter being towed off to the ship, haul un- 
 der the bows, place masts in the sides and sills of 
 one of the forward ports, get the cables in on deck, 
 and French flake them fore and aft ; they are now 
 with the same number of turns in them as when they 
 left the rope walks. 
 
 See that the orlops are clear, and that the skids 
 are properly placed for the cable to lay on. Pass the 
 end of the spare one below and coil away with the 
 sun, on the starboard side of the main orlop, abaft, 
 make the coil as large as possible, taking care not to 
 have too many flakes, in a sheave, as the inside 
 strands of the inner ones would be injured. 
 
 Pass the ends of the two sheets below the starboard 
 one on the larboard side and the larboard on the star- 
 board side, and clinch them around the main mast, or 
 to the orlop beams, coil them away with the sun, let- 
 ting the ends remain out. These ends are pointed and 
 tailed, as also, the ends of those which remain on 
 deck. Join the pointed ends with a short splice, 
 worming the tails along the cable. Having seizings 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 131 
 
 put on at proper distances, these form two long 
 cables ; and the whole five cables form three tiers. 
 The upper ends of the two last cables, are crowned 
 in the following manner, viz., clap a seizing round 
 the cable, about two fathoms from the end, and un- 
 lay it to the seizing. With the three inner strands 
 form an artificial eye, cut off the three next ones, 
 and woold their ends ; with the three outer ones, 
 form a crown, worm the ends along the cable, and 
 clap on seizings. 
 
 245. Chain Cables. 
 
 Are got in through the hause holes, and paid down, 
 into their respective lockers, into the main hatch way. 
 They are ninety fathoms long, and shackled to the 
 kelson with a Jewsharp, or lashed. 
 
 The stream cables and messengers are coiled away 
 in the tier of the spare cable. The hawsers if pos- 
 sible, should be stowed, so that the end of every one 
 could be passed up together, or at the same time. 
 
 246. To Get the Anchors on Board. 
 
 Rig the fish davits, reeve and overhaul the cat 
 and fish falls, get the anchors into a lighter and tow 
 
132 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 them under the bows, pass up the end of the stream 
 cable and chnch to the ring of the bower anchor, 
 hook the cat and run the anchor up to the cat head. 
 Pass the stopper, hook the fish, and pass the shank 
 painter, unbend the stream cable and bend it to the 
 waist anchor, then drop the lighter aft. and secure 
 her under the berth of the anchor. Brace the fore 
 yard in, and the main yard up, as much as possible, 
 and top them up a little, hook a stout tackle to 
 act as a rolling tackle, bouse the lifts and trusses 
 well taut. Pass a lashing around the slings of the 
 yard, to ease the trusses. Hook ^both top burtons to 
 the yard arm, and set well up the opposite breast 
 back stays. Pass a strop around the topmast, just 
 above the lower cap. Hook the double block of a 
 stout pendant tackle in this strop, and the single one 
 is hooked just without the place where the bull's eye 
 for the pendant is to be lashed ; haul well taut the 
 lifts, burtons and pendant tackles alike, reeve whips 
 and get up the triantic stays. The bull's eyes for 
 the pendants are lashed far enough out upon the 
 yards, to allow the anchor to clear the ship's side. 
 
 Reeve the pendant up through it, and clinch the 
 end to the lower mast head, have a thimble in the 
 lower end to which the purchases are hooked. 
 
 Have a thwartship tackle in readiness, to bouse 
 the anchor to the gunwale ; lash the lower block of 
 
133 
 
 the main purchases, to the crown of the anchor 
 having guys from each fluke to keep it steady. 
 
 The fore purchase block is lashed to the ring. 
 
 Rack the topsail tye aloft, and hook the lower 
 block of the fore topsail halyards to a stout strop, 
 passed around the shank of the anchor (amidships) 
 then lashed above the middle of the upper arm of the 
 stock, haul taut handsomely. *' Sway away ;" when, 
 high enough, haul over on the stay and athwart-* 
 ship tackles, get the bill of the anchor upon the 
 gunwale, pass tripp stopper place shoes and secure 
 the anchor, with stock and shank lathings ; unbend 
 the stream cable, and unlash purchases. 
 
 Drop the lighter around on the other side of the 
 ship. Shift over your purchases, secure your yards, 
 and get up the other bower and waist anchors in 
 the same manner. When done, pass the stream 
 cable below. 
 
 247. To Bend the Cables. 
 
 Reeve a ring rope through the ring of the anchor, 
 
 leading it in through the hawse holes, and bend it to 
 
 the cable with a timber hitch, three or four fathoms 
 
 from the end, having it stopped along to the end. 
 
 Haul out on the ring rope, and when you have 
 
 enough of the end through the ring, cut the stops, 
 
 unbend the ring rope, and form an inside clinch, 
 
 12 
 
134 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 having it smaller than the ring of the anchor. The 
 bends are put on opposite to each other, and 
 a small bend is put on near the end to secure it. 
 
 Render the cables as far as possible through the 
 clinch, and stop them together to prevent chafes, (tec. 
 
 The chain cables are shackled to the rings of the 
 anchors, then bend the buoy ropes. 
 
 248. To Range and Stopper the Cables. 
 
 Before ranging the cables, they should be bitted, 
 which is done as follows ; when the cables are bent, 
 haul up sufficient slack to form a bight abaft the 
 bitts, throw the bight which is thus formed, over the 
 head of the bitts, and in case you wish to weather 
 bitt it, take another turn around the cavil. In rang- 
 ing, get a tail block over the hatchway, and reeve a 
 rope through it, which overhaul down and hitch to 
 the cable. Take the running part close out to the 
 guns, bouse upon the rope and French flake the 
 cable fore and aft the decks. Clap on deck and bitt 
 stoppers, before and abaft the bitts, put on rounding 
 at the range, which is intended to veer, and also have 
 cable mats in readiness, to be used as may be re- 
 quired. 
 
136 
 
 249. Stoppers and Nippers. 
 
 The cat head stopper has a knot worked in the 
 end, is then rove through the hole in the cat head 
 through the ring in the anchor, and taken over the 
 cleat, on the side of the cat head, in board and be- 
 layed. 
 
 250. The Tripp Stoppers, 
 
 Both ends are made fast to eye bolts under the af- 
 ter part of the fore channels. The score in the end 
 of the waist anchor stock rest in the bight, its use is 
 to tripp the anchor when let go, clear of the ship's 
 side. 
 
 251. Deck Stoppers 
 
 Are hooked to bolts in the deck. They have a knot 
 worked in the end with a lanyard fast to it. The 
 lanyard is passed around both stopper and cable, 
 abaft the knot, and then wormed along the cable, 
 forward of it. 
 
 252. Ring Stoppers ' 
 Are ropes middled, the bights being taken through 
 
136 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the deck bolts, the ends rove through and dogged 
 along the cable. 
 
 253. Bitt fStopjyers 
 
 Are tailed and rove through the Sampson knee 
 forward of the bitts, taken over the cable abaft the 
 bitts, under again, and wormed along the cable for- 
 ward. 
 
 254. Dog Stoppers 
 
 Are very long, and are used in the tiers. One end 
 is clinched around the main mast, and the other 
 wormed along the cable. 
 
 The wing stoppers are similar, but are clinched 
 around the orlop deck beams in the wings. 
 
 255. The Combi7ig Stojjj^ers, or Compressers, 
 
 For hemp cables they are very long, and are 
 tailed. Two holes are bored through the deck, abaft 
 the after beam of the hatch ; one end of the stopper 
 is rove through one of the holes, downwards, passed 
 under the cable and rove up again through the other 
 hole, both ends are then dogged around the cable 
 taut, so as to nip it against the bea*rn. 
 
^ • YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 137 
 
 For chain cables, the combing stopper is an iron 
 elbow, one end of which is bolted to the forward beam 
 of the hatch underneath, the elbow goes around the 
 cable, having an eye in the other end to which a 
 lufF tackle is hooked, which being hauled upon, 
 stoppers the cable effectually. 
 
 256. Nippers 
 
 Should be five fathoms long and made of the best 
 of rope yarns. 
 
 257. To Pass a Nipper. 
 
 Lay the messenger on the cable, and begin two 
 or three fathoms abaft the hawse hole, to pass the 
 nippers, which is done as follows. Two round turns 
 are first taken with the end of the nipper, around 
 the messenger and held by a boy ; then round 
 both ; the other end is wormed around the cable, as 
 the first was around the messenger. When the strain 
 becomes heavy, racking, and even round turns may- 
 be used, having also small heavers, and selvages to 
 secure the ends, taking care to have dry ones ready 
 
 to use when the cable is up and down. 
 
 12* 
 
# 
 
 138 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 258. To Splice an Old Cable to a New One. 
 
 Take the old one to the rope walk ; unlay the ends 
 and splice them to the ends of the new one with a 
 long splice, after which lay up the latter. 
 
 259. To Cut and Pass a Messenger. 
 
 The length should be equal to twice the distance 
 from the after part of the capstern to the roller in the 
 manger, added to four times the circumference of the 
 capstern band ; this is sufficient for splicing in the 
 eyes and taking the turns. The messenger is passed 
 with three round turns, and then the eyes are lashed 
 with the lanyard figure of 8 fashion, the part which 
 is brought to the cable is undermost. 
 
 260. To Dip a Messenger. 
 
 Cast oflf the lashing, slack up the turns and pass 
 the eye up or down, as necessary. Between the turns 
 and capstern, render the turns through each other 
 and pass the lashing again. 
 
 261. To Get the Guns on Board. 
 Have the gun carriages and all the equipments 
 
belonging to them brought alongside in lighters ; 
 hoist them in with the yard and stay, and get them 
 on their respective decks, brace up the main yard, 
 over the port through which the guns are to be taken 
 in, and secure as for getting up the waist anchor, 
 with the addition of using another pendant tackle", 
 the double block of which is used to hook to a strop 
 passed around the lower cap, and the single one to a 
 strop just within the place where the bull's eye for 
 the pendant is to be lashed on. Lash on the bull's 
 eye, between the single block of the pendant tackle, 
 and reeve a pendant tackle like the one which was 
 used for the waist anchor. A hole is bored through 
 the spar deck if a frigate, but if a line of battle ship 
 through the spar and main deck abreast the gangway 
 port, and the gurnet rove down through. A hook 
 and thimble is spliced in the lower end of the gur- 
 net, and a thimble in the upper end, which is hook- 
 ed to the main pendant tackle. Make the slings of 
 breeching stuff, and seize an eye on the bight, large 
 enough to go over the breech of the gun, put over the 
 eye, and put the slings along the upper part of the 
 gun, lashing them with a piece of rope around all 
 just forward of the trunnion ; bend a hawser also to 
 weigh the gun, in the event of parting the purchase, and 
 lash the purchase block to the bight of the slings ; 
 *'S\vayaway," and drop thelighterfromunderthe gun, 
 and when the breech is as high as the port, hook the 
 
140 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 garnet and athwartsliip tackle to the breeching ring 
 rouse in, run a carriage under, lower away, place the 
 trunnions fair, clamp them, come up the purchases 
 and transport the gun to its port ; get all lower and 
 main deck guns in the same way. The carronades 
 are taken in over the rail, a toggle is put in the muz- 
 zle, one bight of the slings over the cascabel, the 
 other over the muzzle, and back lashed to the tog- 
 gle,, the stay or purchase block is lashed on midships 
 of the slings, and the stay or pendant tackle to the 
 same place, consequently the gun will come in 
 square, have the slide and bed ready, place it fair and 
 drive in the naval bolt. Ship the screws, beds and 
 coins, reeve the breeching, hook side and train tackles, 
 see the guns square in the ports, and secure them there. 
 Note. The reason for having an additional secu- 
 rity on the main yard is, because in getting in guns 
 the strain is altogether on the yard, while in getting 
 up the anchors, which are of the same weight as a 
 gun nearly, the strain is divided between two yards. 
 The main deck guns might be taken in over the 
 rail and struck down the main hatch. 
 
 262. To Ship and Unship a Rudder. 
 
 Have the rudder brought under the stern in a 
 scow. . Bore a hole through a beam or carline over 
 
141 
 
 the rudder case. Drive an eye bolt up through it, 
 and fit a washer and forelock. Strop a large single 
 block with hook and thimble, and hook it to the 
 eye bolt, reeve a top pendant through the single 
 block, down through the rudder case, and hitch it 
 to an eye bolt, which is temporarily fitted into the 
 rudder head. Clap a deck tackle on to the other end 
 of the pendant, have heel ropes leading forward on 
 each side, being rove through their respective holes 
 in the rudder; man the deck tackle fall and hoist 
 away. When the rudder is high enough, guy it fair, see 
 the pintles fair for entering the gudgeons, and lower, 
 fit in the wood lock. Come up the pendant, unreeve 
 the heel ropes, take the bolt from the rudder head, 
 the one from the beam or carline above, ship the 
 tiller, and reeve the wheel ropes. 
 
 To unship it. Fit the bolts, single block, pen- 
 dant and deck tackles as before, unreeve the wheel 
 ropes, unship the tiller, knock out the wood lock 
 and sway away, when the pintles are clear of the 
 gudgeons, lower away, secure it to the scow or 
 lighter, tow it on shore, parbuckle or hoist it out of 
 the water. 
 
 
 263. To Bend ^ails and Staij Sails.^ 
 Call all hands to bend sails, get the courses, jib, 
 
 
142 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 topsail, and spanker on deck. Open them out, and see 
 that they are whole, that the bowline bridles, head 
 and reef earings, rope bands, reef points, sheet clew- 
 line, and reef tackle blocks, are in their proper places ; 
 bight the topsails down in slings abaft their respec- 
 tive masts, with the clews out and that yard arm 
 uppermost, opposite the side on which they are to 
 be sent aloft, round up the flyblock of the topsail 
 halyards, high enough for the lower block to take 
 the topsail clear of the top rail, and rack the tye se- 
 curely to a back stay. Hook the lower block of the 
 topsail halyard to the slings, also a snatch block, 
 which mouse. Reeve the halyard through the snatch 
 block, then through another farther aft, and it will 
 serve as a jack stay to keep the sail clear of the top 
 as it goes up. Sway aloft the topsail and get it into 
 the forward part of the top. Overhaul down the hal- 
 yards, hook and haul them taut, reeve and bend the 
 sheets, clewlines, buntlines, reef tackles and bow- 
 lines. Stop the head of the sail to the buntlines, hook 
 the double block of a luff to a strop on the yard arm, 
 the single one to the first reef cringle, stopping the 
 head earings, to the standing part. Overhaul the 
 course, athwart the deck, seize on the sheet, tack and 
 clue garnet blocks, reeve and bend the geer. Stop the 
 head of the sail to the buntlines, use the top burtons 
 for yard ropes, hooking through the first reef cringle, 
 stopping the head earings to the standing parts. Turn 
 
143 
 
 the block out of the end of the jib stay, and bend on 
 a line, bring the end in on the forecastle, stop the 
 luff of the jib, seize on the halyard block, reeve the 
 halyards and downhauls, fit the brail bloek, reeve the 
 brails, seize on the sheet pendants, and reeve the 
 sheets, lower the spanker gaff, pass the throat and 
 peak earings, and lace the head to the gaff. Seize 
 on the brails, reeve them and the outhauler. 
 To man the gear. Man the jib halyards and 
 downhaul, yard ropes, clew garnets, clewlines, bunt- 
 lines, reef tackles and gaff halyards, run out the jib, 
 reeve and set up the stay and seize the tack, sway 
 the topsails and courses, up to the yards, where some 
 hands are ready to receive them, bend the gear and 
 haul out, then take a turn with the earings, ride 
 down the heads, then pass the earings exactly, make 
 fast the rope bands, fit the leachline block of the 
 courses, seize on and reeve the leechline. Some 
 hands are employed in seizing on the hoops to the 
 luff of the spanker as it goes aloft. Let all the sails 
 fall, to see if the gear is bent clear, clew up and furl 
 the courses and topsails, stow jib and spanker. 
 
 The top gallant sails, royals and studding sails, 
 are bent on deck. Send the stay sails into the tops, 
 fit the jack stays and tricing line blocks, to the lat- 
 ter, seize the head of the luff, reeve the halyards, 
 downhauls and brails, bend the tacks and sheets, stow 
 the stay sails, and haul all taut. 
 
144 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 264. To Bend Fhjhig Jib and Fore Top Mast 
 Stay Sail. 
 
 These sails are bent like the jib, excepting that 
 the fore topmast spring stay, is not come up. 
 
 Note. In running out the jib, it is necessary to 
 pass a strop around the body of the sail, and to this 
 hook the halyards and dowhaul now by hoisting on 
 halyards, and running out on the downhaul, and a 
 rope which is bent to the end of the stay the sail 
 goes out fair. 
 
 265. To Carry Out an Anchor with a Boat. 
 
 Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat, by good 
 stoppers, having a buoy rope and buoy to it, pass 
 the end of the cable or hawser out through the 
 hawse hole, and coil enough of it away in the bows 
 of the boat to reach the bottom. Now capsize the 
 coil, bight by bight in the stern sheets, and then 
 the end will be uppermost, bend the cable or hawser 
 in board, when in the right place, heave over the 
 buoy and see that the buoy rope is clear, stand clear 
 of the cable and slip the stoppers. 
 
 266. To Haul Off and Moor Ship. 
 Before hauling off, hoist in and stow the spare 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 145 
 
 spars, securing them by gripes, place the boat's 
 chocks, get on board all stores, and the complement 
 of men from the receiving ship, get tip kedges and 
 hawsers, ready for instant service, see the boats pro- 
 vided with crews, oars, and sails. Run out a kedge, 
 and drop it where the first or weather anchor 
 is to be planted. Have guys from the ship to 
 the shore, single the fasts, hang over fenders and out 
 riggers, man the hawser, cast ofi" the fasts and warp 
 off, checking her as necessary by the guys, run the 
 kedge up to the bows and let go the weather anchor, 
 veer too as fast as she will take it, assisting her in 
 going astern by the mizen topsail if necessary. If 
 to shoot her to either side, use the helm, jib or spanker, 
 and in case there is no wind, use kedges and hawsers, 
 when a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and 
 let go the second anchor, furl the mizen topsail, bring 
 too on the weather cable and heave in to the moor- 
 ings, moor a little taut to allow for veering, clap on 
 service, and veer it to the hawse-hole if a hemp cable. 
 
 267. Getting in the Spare Spars. 
 
 In hoisting in the spare spars, use the yard and 
 stay tackles, across each other, the main being hook- 
 ed forward, and the fore abaft. This is done, because 
 the spars are too long to come directly in between 
 the fore and main rigging ; by bousing upon one of 
 
146 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the stay tackles, the spar is brought far enough for- 
 ward or aft to allow the other end to come up and 
 in, when the operation is reversed. In stowing the 
 spare topmast, lay the heads of the main and mizen 
 abaft, and the head of the fore, forward, and they 
 will be ready for pointing. 
 
 268. Station the Crew. 
 
 In dividing the crew into watches, care should be 
 taken that the physical force is as equally distributed 
 as possible, and there be as many seamen, ordinary 
 seamen, landsmen, boys, and marines, in one watch, 
 as in the other. 
 
 Petty officers should be chosen from among the 
 seamen, selected from those who have been long in 
 the service, and who have proved faithful. Fore 
 castle men should be middle aged seamen, with a few 
 ordinary seamen and landsmen. Topmen, young 
 active seamen, a few ordinary seamen, landsmen and 
 boys. After guard, a few elderly seamen, with ordi- 
 nary seamen and landsmen. Waisters, chiefly lands- 
 men, with a few ordinary seamen ; in single decked 
 ships, where there are no waisters, more men should 
 be stationed on the fore castle and in the after guard, 
 than there would be in proportion on board of a 
 line of battle ship, or frigate ; idlers are excused from 
 watch. They are officer's servants, cooks, <fcc. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 147 
 
 Divide each watch into first and second parts, 
 appoint a captain to each part, number the men be- 
 longing to the fore castle, having all the larboard 
 watch even, as two, four, six, and the starboard, odd, 
 as one, three, five ; have the numbers painted on can- 
 vass, and let each man sew it on his bag and ham- 
 mocks, having also for greater distinction, the lar- 
 board painted red, and the starboard black. The men 
 should be below alternately, so that when one watch 
 is below there should be an equal number on each 
 side. 
 
 In each watch, line of battle ship, frigate, and sloop 
 of war 
 
 
 Line of Battle Ship. 
 
 Frigate. 
 
 Sloop of War. 
 
 Fore castle. 
 Pore & Main top. 
 Mizen top. 
 
 Generally about 40 men. 
 '• «' 40 » 
 
 About 30 men. 
 " 30 « 
 » 20 '« 
 
 About 14 men. 
 " 14 " 
 u 12 <i 
 
 269. Station the Crew at Quarters, 
 
 Choose for the captains of your guns, seamen who 
 have been long accustomed to them, steady, with 
 good sight, and quick motion. The boarders should 
 be stout men. The firemen and sail trimmers, young 
 and active men. The largest and stoutest men should 
 be chosen to man the long guns, the others the carron- 
 nades. Be particular to station them as near where 
 
148 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in 
 order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of 
 the gun's crew be in one watch, and the second part 
 in the other, so that in the event of going to quarters 
 ^ the night, the watch on deck can clear away the 
 guns, while the watch below clear away the ham- 
 mocks. 
 
 270. To a Twelve pound Carronnade 
 
 Are stationed four men and one boy. All the men 
 stationed at the long guns of a double decked ship, 
 should be armed with cutlasses, and called boarders, 
 the first of the gun's crew to be called second boarders, 
 and " vice versa." They are only to be called when 
 required to board, or in case of great emergency, to 
 repel boarders, and then every man will repair to the 
 upper deek, except the firemen, quarter gunners, and 
 powder boys, who will remain below to protect the 
 ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire. 
 
 All the men stationed at the carronnades should 
 be boarders and sail trimmers. As boarders, the first 
 part should be armed with pikes, the second part with 
 small arms, and are to repel the boarders, but not to 
 quit the ship. 
 
 All the men stationed of a single decked ship, are 
 boarders ; the first part to be armed with cutlasses. 
 
149 
 
 the second part with pikes. The battery being 
 manned, distribute the rest of the crew as follows : 
 have a quarter master at the signals when in a squad- 
 ron, topmen and marines in the tops, to repair dam- 
 ages, and act as small arm men. A quarter master 
 and two men at the relieving tackles, men stationed 
 at the passages, to pass full and empty boxes ; also 
 others at the shot lockers. Mast men to see the rig- 
 ging clear, cook and armourer at the galley, the car- 
 penter and his mates at the pumps and wings, the 
 master at arms and ship's corporal in the light room, 
 the gunner, his mates, quarter gunners, and cooper, 
 in the magazine, the surgeon and assistants in the 
 cock pit. 
 
 271. Station the Crew for Mooring and Unmoor- 
 ing. 
 
 In stationing the men, place the same number of 
 men of each watch to perform a piece of duty. Have 
 quarter masters at the signals, when in a squadron, 
 in the chains, at the lookout ; men at the wheel, 
 quarter gunners to overhaul the fish and grapple the 
 buoys, men to overhaul and hook the cat, attend back 
 ropes ; also others at the mast to see the rigging 
 clear. Boatswain's mates in the gangways, carpen- 
 ters to ship and unship capstan bars, attend stan- 
 chions, with the music At the capstan — some fore top- 
 
 13* 
 
 ft^'.»^ 
 

 150 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 men to put on nippers, some main topmen to take them- 
 ofij and boys to carry them forward. Men to rouse 
 up and veer away cable, to attend stoppers and light 
 forward the messenger. The yeoman in the store 
 rooms, master at arms and ship's corporal-on the berth 
 deck, and cook at the galley. Tierers in each tier, 
 and the remainder of the men at the capstan. 
 
 272. Station the Men — Loosing and Purling. 
 
 Take the same number of men from each watch, 
 and station them at the same rope, <fcc. The topmen 
 are to man their respective yards, hands are to attend 
 the boom jiggers and tricing lines, fore castle men to 
 attend head sails and foresail, main yard men to look 
 out for the main sail, after guard for the spanker and 
 mizen stay sail, for the main topmast stay sail, the 
 fore castle men ; for the main stay sail, the gunner's 
 crew, men stationed to sheet home and hoist the top- 
 sails, and when coming to anchor the same men to 
 man the clewlines, buntlines, and weather braces ; 
 and when loosing sails to dry, to man bowlines or 
 buntlines, in furling, the captains are to be in the bunt. 
 
 273. Station the Creiofor Tacking and Veering, 
 Station the men from the watch bill, have hands 
 
 <?>.„^;i 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 151 
 
 at the jib boom end, to overhaul jib brails and light 
 over jib sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over 
 jib pendants, hands on the bumpkins and in the 
 chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, and back stay- 
 falls. On deck, at the wheel, sprit sail braces, jib 
 sheets, jib brails, braces, bowlines, clew garnets, tacks 
 and sheets, back stay falls, lifts, trusses, spanker 
 sheets, guys, vang and topping lifts. Aloft to over- 
 haul lifts and trusses, attend outriggers, and bear the 
 backstays abaft and abreast, the mast men to see the 
 rigging clear, dec. 
 
 274. Station the Crew for Reefing, 
 
 Tiie men are stationed as in furling, except the 
 captains, who are at the earings ; when the yards are 
 down, the men from the clewlines and buntlines, 
 will haul out the reef tackles. 
 
 275. To Mark the Lead Line. 
 
 At two fathoms, two strips of leather, at three 
 fathoms three strips of leather, at five fathoms a 
 white rag, at seven fathoms a red rag, at ten fathoms, 
 a piece of leather with a hole in it, at thirteen the 
 same as three, at fifteen the same as five, at seven- 
 
152 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 teen the same as seven, at twenty fathoms, two knots 
 and then one knot for every ten fathoms. 
 
 276. To make the Log Line. 
 
 Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in 
 a white rag, then at every 47 feet and 6 tenths, 
 mark the line as follows, viz., at 1, one leather, 
 at 2, two knots, at 3, three knots, having a mark 
 also at every half knot. The glasses should 
 be proved with a good watch, having a second hand. 
 The principle of the log line is, that the knot is the 
 same part of a sea mile, that half a minute is of an 
 hour, therefore the length of a knot should be one 
 one hundred and twentieth the length of a sea mile, 
 or fifty one feet, but as it is more convenient to have 
 the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the 
 proportional reduction is necessary in the glass. 
 Therefore as fifty one feet : 30 seconds : : 48 feet : 
 28 4-1 7 seconds, but as the fraction can more easily 
 be allowed in the line than the glass, another pro- 
 portion is necessary, viz., as, 28 4-17 seconds : 48 
 feet : : 28 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a 
 knot. 
 
 277. To Clear Hawse. 
 Call all hands, " clear hawse," have the starboard 
 
163 
 
 watch on "deck, and the larboard watch below in a 
 double decked ship. Lash a stout single block to 
 the bowsprit, and reeve the clear hawse pendant 
 through it, haul the launch under the bows, or if 
 there is too much sea on, or she is not out, send a 
 hand down in a bowline, and hook the pendant to 
 the riding cable, below the turn, and bouse them up 
 clear of the water, after which pass a stout lashing 
 around both cables. If there should be much sea 
 on, or the wind flawey and variable, it would be 
 well to pass the end of a hawser out of the hawse- 
 hole and hitch it to the cable ; to relieve the lashing, 
 reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bow- 
 sprit end, for bowlines, and pass them in at the 
 hawse hole, so as to take out an elbow. For ex- 
 ample. Suppose the starboard was the clearing 
 cable, and it was under the other, take the larboard 
 bowline down under the cable, up into the starboard 
 hawse hole, and the starboard one over to the lar- 
 board side of the cable, then follow the lead of the 
 larboard bowline, bend on several fathoms inside and 
 stop along to the hawse hole, draw the splice, bend 
 on hawse rope, oif stoppers, and run out, hang the 
 bights to the bowsprit, with slip ropes, and send in 
 the bowlines again, the same way as before, when 
 the end is out f* cast off" and dip it fair and bend on 
 again to the end of the cable, rouse in, slack down 
 the slip ropes, and splice the cable, haul it taut with 
 
154 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 a deck tackle, bitt and stopper, cast off the hawser 
 unlash the cable, unreeve the clear hawse pendant, 
 unlash the block from the bowsprit end, clear up 
 the deck, and pipe down. 
 
 278. Note. 
 
 If there is a round turn and an elbow in 
 the hawse after rousing the cable, repeat the opera- 
 tion as before, it is always well to prevent confusion, 
 to take out one elbow at a time. A cross is when 
 the cables lay across each other, or when the ship 
 has swung foul once ; an elbow is two crosses, and 
 around turn is three crosses : around turn and elbow 
 is five crosses, it can readily be seen thus, in clear- 
 ing hawse with a round turn, a cross will be left in 
 the cables. 
 
 279. To Weigh an Anchor With the Launch, 
 
 This may be done by underrunning, when the 
 ship has slipped, or weighing by the buoy rope, 
 when the anchor lies in too shoal water for the ship 
 to be hove up to it. 
 
 Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, take 
 strong tackles with a jigger also, and some good rope 
 
155 
 
 for stoppers, get the end of the cable over the roller, 
 hook the double block of the tackle to a strop passed 
 around it, the single one to a bolt in the bows, and 
 man the fall, and as the cable comes in, French flake 
 it along the athwarts, when the tackle comes two 
 blocks, stopper and fleet, when the cable is up and 
 down clap the jigger on the fall of the tackle, and 
 heave the boat's stern well down in the water and 
 stopper securely, send all the men into the bows of 
 the boat, jump the boat and break ground, then man 
 the fall again, ofi" stopper and heave up, when the 
 ring is above water, pass a short ring stopper, and 
 haul the buoy on board, when along side, hook the 
 cat, and cat the anchor, get the end of the cable un- 
 clinched, and passed into the hawse, and haul the 
 remainder out of the launch. 
 
 280. To Weigh with a Buoy Rope. 
 
 Get the buoy rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, 
 and weigh the anchor as before. When it is secured, 
 man the- capstan, heave the launch in under the bows 
 and cat the anchor. 
 
 Note. Anchors are sometimes weighed with the 
 buoy rope, when the cable has parted and the end 
 cannot be grappled ; when this is the case, the anchor 
 may be weighed with the launch, brought under ihe 
 
166 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 bows and catted, the cable unclinched and hove in, 
 or the ship might be warped over the buoy and the 
 cat fall taken to the buoy rope. 
 
 281. To Take in a Launch, 
 
 Brace and secure the yards, the same as for getting 
 up the anchors, also rig the same purchases, place 
 the chocks, pass every thing out of the launch, and 
 hook the purchases to spans, have a couple of hands 
 in the boat to keep her clear of the ship's side, man 
 the yard tackle falls, and have a few hands to take 
 in the slack of the stay falls, walk away, and when 
 the boat leaves the water, take out the plug, when 
 high enough to clear the waist anchor stock, haul 
 over the main stay, easing away the fore and main 
 yards, when the stern is over the deck, haul over the 
 forestay, lower and place her in the chocks. The other 
 boats may be got in by the same purchases, the 
 launch is stowed on the larboard side, the first cutter 
 on the starboard side, the second cutter inside the 
 launch, the third cutter inside the first ; when all are 
 in, unrig the purchases, square the yards and set up 
 the gripes. 
 
 The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to thr 
 davits and secured to them, by stoppers, and the 
 gripes are set up. 
 
 i%^' 
 
YOUNG sailor's assistant. 157 
 
 282. To Take in Boats at Both Sides at Once. 
 
 The yards are kept square and secured on both 
 sides, by the lifts, burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the 
 winding and stay tackles for the heaviest boats, the 
 yard tackles for the lightest ones, the top sail hal- 
 yards forward and the main pendant tackle aft acting 
 as stays to bring them on board. Come up the for- 
 ward back stays as they would interfere with the 
 bows of the boats, afteV which proceed as before. 
 
 Note. To take in a boat at sea, back the main 
 topsail, get the boat to leeward, secure the lower yards 
 as before directed, and hoist her in. She coming in to 
 leeward, tackles will be necessary to get her to wind- 
 ward sufficiently to lower away. When before the 
 wind, a boat might be got in, by securing the yards 
 as before, and taking a hawser from aft, to the stern 
 of the boat, to keep her from sending forward when 
 she leaves the water, and thereby endangering the 
 yards. 
 
 283. To Unmoor Ship. ^^ 
 
 See that tha hawse is clear, and overhaul a range 
 of the weather cable, get up nippers, pass the mes- 
 senger, knock up the slancheons, ship the gratings, 
 ship and swifter in the capstan bars, rig the fish 
 
 davit, overhaul cat and fish, "Call all hands un- 
 
 14 
 
158 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 moor ship," have leadsmen in the chains, men at 
 the wheel, man the bars, brino^ too on the lee cable, 
 heave taut, off stoppers, unbit and heave in, veer 
 away on the weather cable ; when the lee cable is up 
 and down, stopper the former, heave up, pall the 
 capstern, hook the cat and walk away. When high 
 enough, surge the messenger, pass cat head stopperSj^ 
 grapple the buoy, hook the fish, walk away ; when 
 high enough, pass shank painter, dip the messenger, 
 bring too on the other cable, and heave in to the old 
 service — clear up the decks. 
 
 284. W7ien the Messenger Strands^ or is likely to 
 Part, 
 
 If the messenger is likely to part from the great 
 strain, stopper immediately, and either pass a new 
 one, or reeve a viol, assisting it with cat fall. Lash 
 the viol block to the cable near the hause hole, clinch 
 one end of the hawser to the main mast, snatch the 
 bight to the block and take the other end to the cap- 
 starn. Pass a strop around the cable close down to 
 the water, hook the cat to it, and heave up by the 
 viol and cat fall. If the messenger should strand, 
 stopper immediately, cut it, then knot or splice it. 
 
285. Leeward Tide to Get Under Weigh and 
 Stand Out on a Wind. 
 
 Overhaul a range of the cable by which she is not 
 riding, get the anchor ready for letting go, have 
 hands attending the stoppers, pass the messenger, 
 knock up the stancheons, ship the gratings, ship and 
 swifter the capstan bars, rig the fish davit, reeve and 
 overhaul the cat and fish. " Call all hands up anchor," 
 have leadsmen in the chains and men at the wheel, 
 man the bars, bring too, heave taut, off stoppers, un- 
 bitt and heave in, when into a small scope, pall. 
 "Aloft sail loosers," and loose all sail, sheet home and 
 hoist the topsails. If riding by the starboard cable and 
 no impediment to port, it will be most eligible, to 
 cast her on the starboard tack, as the cable will then 
 be clear of the cutwater, and the ship being to leeward 
 of her anchor, it can be more easily catted and fish- 
 ed. If there should be much sea on, this would be 
 the best plan. 
 
 Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, 
 overhaul lifts, trusses and backstay fiills. The foretop- 
 sail being put aback by the starboard braces, the 
 main and mizen by the wind, with the larboard 
 after braces, heaving around briskly, and before 
 breakino: orround, give her a sheer with the starboard 
 
 DO ' C3 
 
 helm, when up, hoisfthe jib, keeping the helm a 
 starboard, until the stern board exceeds the veloQity 
 
160 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 ^ 
 
 of the tide, when shift it and g^rapple the buoy, when 
 she has fallen off, so as to fill the after sails, let flow 
 the jib sheet, haul out the spanker, set top gallant 
 sails and courses, trim the yards and sails properly. 
 To cast off on the larboard tack put the helm a port, 
 and brace the yards the contrary way. 
 
 286. To Get Under Weigh and Stand Before 
 the Wind* 
 
 Make all preparations for getting under weigh, 
 heave in and make sail as before. Lay the main 
 and mizen topsails square aback, the fore one sharp 
 aback according to the side it is intended to cast, 
 heave in, cant her the right way with the helm be- 
 fore tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern 
 board is greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, 
 grapple the buoy, run up the jib as soon as it will 
 take, haul aft the weather jib sheet. While falling off 
 cat and fish the anchor, as she gathers head way shift 
 the helm, when before the wind, right it, square the 
 head yards, and brail up the jib, set top gallant sails, 
 royals and foresail, haul taut lifts, trusses, backstay 
 falls, set the studding sails if necessary. 
 
 287. In Getting Under Weighs Back Astern, to 
 Avoid Danger. 
 
 Make all preparations, heave in and make sail as 
 
161 
 
 before. If required to cast on the starboard tack, sheer 
 her with the starboard helm, to bring the wind on 
 the starboard bow, brace the yards fore afid aft, aback 
 about half up with the larboard braces, haul out the 
 spanker and keep the boom nearly amidships, heave 
 up briskly, grapple the buoy, and as soon as the an- 
 chor is up, put the helm hard a weather to keep her 
 too, cat and fish the anchor, having made sufficient 
 stern board, shift the helm, brace about the after 
 yards, ease off the spanker sheet and run up the jib, 
 when full aft, brace round the head yards, and as she 
 gathers head way, right the helm and make sail. To 
 cast on the larboard tack, sheer her with the port 
 helm, and brace all sharp aback and proceed as be- 
 fore. 
 
 288. Get Under Weighs a Shoal on Each Beam. 
 
 It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is im- 
 possible, to weather either of those abeam ; but there 
 is just room to pass between a shoal astern and either 
 of those abeam {blowiiig fresh.) 
 
 Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter 
 ports, bend on one end to the cable and secure the 
 other to the topsail sheet bitts, draw the splice of the 
 cable, bend a slip buoy to it, and heave it overboard. 
 See the stoppers clear for slipping, stop the topsails to 
 14* 
 
162 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the yards with spun yarn, casting off the gaskets, 
 loose the courses, jib and spanker, mast head the 
 topsail yards, man the jib halyards, shear her from 
 the cable, with the helm, slip and run up the jib, 
 keep fast the stream cable, and let her swing round ; 
 when she heads for the passage, slip the stream cable, 
 right the helm, sheet home the top-ails, set the 
 courses, and other sails if necessary, then stand 
 through the passage. 
 
 289. Get Under Weighs at Anchor ^ in a Narrow 
 Channel, 
 
 At anchor in a narrow channel and riding to a 
 strong leeward tide and blowing fresh, a ship astern 
 and one on each quarter, so near that there is not 
 room to veer after casting, it is necessary to go to 
 sea, and to do so a passage must be effected between 
 the two ships. 
 
 Make all preparations for getting under weigh and 
 heave in as described before, loose the topsails, 
 if riding by the starboard cable give her a rank sheer 
 with the starboard helm, set up the starboard back- 
 stays, bear aft the larboard ones, overhaul lifts and 
 trusses, haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on 
 the larboard quarter, lead along main tack and sheet, 
 run the jib up, and haul aft the weather sheet, heave 
 
163 
 
 round cheerily, rim the anchor up, grapple the buoy 
 as soon as she fills, meet her with the helm, board 
 the main tack to catch her, trim the jib and spanker 
 sheets, set the foresail and trim sharp, haul the bow- 
 lines, and stand on as far as necessar3^ 
 
 Note. A great deal of uncertainty attends this 
 manner, if there is room it would be the best plan to 
 lay the head yards aback. It is confidently asserted, 
 by old experienced seamen, that the above method is 
 perfectly practicable. 
 
 290. Head to Wind. Cast on Larboard Tack. 
 
 Make all preparations, heave in and make sail as 
 before, sheer her with a port helm, brace the 
 head yards, sharp ujvwith the larboard braces, and 
 counter brace the after ones, haul out the spanker 
 and get the boom on the starboard quarter, heave in, 
 break ground, get the buoy, up jib, as soon as it will 
 tate, shift the helm, when the sternboard exceeds the 
 velocity of the tide, when the after sails are full, trim 
 the spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the 
 anchor, haul aft the jib sheet, brace round the head 
 yards, and make sail. 
 
 291. Windward Tide, Get Under Weigh and 
 Stand Before the Wind. 
 
 Make all preparation for getting under weigh, 
 
164 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 heave in, loose the jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, 
 run the jib up, cat and fish the anchor, and make 
 sail with expedition. 
 
 Note. If it was necessary to have the ship under 
 greater command, and as might be the case in a nar- 
 row channel or crowded harbour, it would be better 
 to proceed as follows, heave in to a short stay, loose 
 the courses, topsails, jib and spanker, if riding by the 
 starboard cable, sheer her with the starboard helm, 
 and bring the wind on the larboard quarter, brace 
 the yards too, by the larboard braces, and keep them 
 shivering by the helm, heave up, fill the after yards and 
 square the head ones, haul aft jib sheet on starboard 
 tack, cat and fish the anchor, up helm, fill the head 
 yards, shiver the after ones, get her before the wind, 
 and make sail. 
 
 292. To Get Under Weighy and Stand Out on a 
 Wind. 
 
 Make all preparations, commence heaving in, 
 loose jib and spanker, top up and bear over the 
 spanker boom on the right quarter, and the helm to 
 the side which it is intended to cast, heave up, get 
 the buoy, haul out the spanker as soon as it will take, 
 when the wind gets abeam, run up the jib and meet 
 her with the helm, cat and fish the anchor loose, 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT, 165 
 
 sheet home, and Iioist the topsails, brace up, bring 
 by jxnd make sail. 
 
 293. Riding Head to Tide, Wind 07i the iStar- 
 board Quart er, to Get Under Weigh on the 
 Starboard Tack. 
 
 Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, 
 sheet home and hoist the lop sails, bracing them too 
 with the starboard braces ; keep them shivering by the 
 assistance of the topsails and helm, heave around, 
 break ground, put the helm a starboard, brace full 
 the head yards, run up the jib, and let her pay round 
 to port, heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy, 
 haul out the spanker, as soon as it will take, shift 
 over the head sheets, and square the head yards, 
 trim aft the jib sheet, and meet her with the helm, 
 cat and fish the anchor and make sail. 
 
 294. To Get Under Weighs Wind Across the 
 Tide. 
 
 To get under weigh, ebb tide, make all prepara- 
 tions, loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails, brace 
 up the fore and mizen top sails, and lay the main 
 yard to the mast. Give her a spoke or two of lea 
 wheel, so as to take the main topsail well abacki 
 
166 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 heave the anchor up, cat and fish it, grapple the 
 buoy, at the same time set the jib and spanker, fill 
 the main yard, stand on to a convenient place, then 
 either tack or veer. The evolution is determined by 
 the circumstance of there being more room to wind- 
 ward or to leeward. 
 
 295. To Get Under Weigh Flood Tide. 
 
 Proceed as before until the anchor is catted and 
 fished, then hoist the jib, haul out the spanker, fill 
 the main topsail, and stand out making whatever 
 sail may be judged necessary. 
 
 296. To Back and Fill in a Tide Way. 
 
 This manoeuvre is only executed when a ship is 
 to proceed up or down a rapid river against the 
 wind, which is supposed to be light and may be 
 done by two methods, viz., driving before the wind 
 or broadside to it, when the channel is broad enough, 
 the latter method is preferable, as the ship will be 
 more under the command of her helm. 
 
 297. To Drive Before the Wind. 
 This is only done in a very narrow channel, 
 
167 
 
 heave up the anchor, and get her before the wind, 
 with just sail enough to keep her so. Suppose her, 
 under topsails, and as she drops With the tide it be- 
 comes necessary for her to remain stationary, to al- 
 low a ship to pass her stern, set top gallant sails, and 
 if required to shoot ahead, drop the fore sail, if to 
 avoid a rock or ship astern, put the helm up or 
 down, haul out the spanker, brace up, haul aft the 
 jib sheet, as she comes too; shoot across until clear 
 of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the 
 spanker and shiver the after yards, and when before 
 the wind brail up the jib. If in standing across she 
 should get too near the shore, get her on the other 
 tack, by waring or box hauling. 
 
 298. To Drive Broadside Too. 
 
 Get under weigh, bring her by the wind under 
 the jib, topsails and spanker, shiver the topsails, 
 when filled stand on to the middle of the channel, 
 brail up the jib and spanker, let her drift in this situ- 
 ation until she falls off which she will soon do, owing 
 to her greater immersion aft than forward, which 
 will drift her stern farther to windward, haul out the 
 spanker, and if this is insufficient, back the mizen 
 topsail ; if she still falls off, back the main also, both 
 square aback, and if she should get a stern board, put 
 
168 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the helm hard a weather, should she come too again, 
 shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting 
 her drift as before. 
 
 299. To Secure the Ship for Sea. 
 
 Take the departure, give the course, and make 
 sail, beat to quarters, examine the magazine, load, 
 shot, and secure the guns, see that all the gear of 
 the guns is ready for service and secured, fill the 
 shot boxes, rack, and wadnets^ get the anchors on 
 the bows, and lash them, unbend the cable and buoy 
 ropesj if clear and dry, pay them below. Also, the 
 messengers, hawsers, stoppers, nippers and cable 
 mats, put in the bucklers, unreeve cat and fish, coil 
 them away below. Get chafing mats on the yards, 
 and rigging, see the booms and boats secured, 
 pumps ready for working, the gratings and tarpau- 
 lins ready for putting on. Overhaul the storm stay 
 sail gear, see every thing ready for service and stow it 
 below again. 
 
 300. To Stow the Anchor for Sea. 
 
 The anchors being catted and fislied, clap a stout 
 tackle on them and cat head stoppers, pass a good 
 
169 
 
 lashing through the ring, and over the cathead ex- 
 pend the stopper the same way. Hook the pendant 
 tackle to a strop around the shank, weigh the crown 
 and bowse the fluke into the bill port by a thwart- 
 ship tackle, having another tackle clapt on the end 
 of the anchor stock, which is uppermost, getting it 
 as close to the side as the stock will permit ; pass 
 stout shank lashings also around the stock and cat- 
 head, unbend the cable and buoy rope. 
 
 Note. The waist anchors are securely stowed, 
 when they are first got on board. 
 
 301. To make /Sail when Getting Under weigh. 
 
 Call all hands, loose sails, lay aloft sail loosers, 
 man the boom tricing lines, trice up, lay out, loose 
 away, clear away the rigging, man the topsail sheets 
 and halyards, keep fast the buntlines and leech lines 
 of the courses, when ready, let fall and sheet home, 
 lay in, lay down, down booms ; when the men are 
 off the yards, light up the rigging in the tops, attend 
 the braces, hoist away the topsails ; when taut, leech, 
 belay the halyards, man the lee braces and attend 
 the weather ones. Bear the lee back stays abaft, 
 weather ones abreast, and set them up, and rig out 
 the outrigger. Overhaul the lifts and trusses, attend 
 15 
 
170 ' KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the bowlines and brace up, when up, haul taut wea- 
 ther braces, lifts and trusses, steady out the bowlines, 
 
 802. To set Top-gallant Sails, Blowing Fresh* 
 
 Point the yards to the wind, and loose the sails, 
 sheet home to leeward first and then to windward, 
 having a hand to leeward, to light the foot over the 
 topmast stay, hoist away, trim the yards, haul the 
 bowlines. 
 
 Note. In setting top-gallant sails over single reefed 
 topsails, see that the sheets are home square alike. 
 
 303. To set Courses, {Moderate.) 
 
 Man the fore and main tacks and . sheets, attend 
 the rigging, have hands on the lower yards, to over- 
 haul it, haul aboard, check the top bowlines, weather 
 lower lifts'a little of the lee [main brace, avast the 
 sheets, get the tacks close down, and then haul at 
 the sheets, haul taut the main brace, lifts, trusses, ant 
 bowlines. 
 
 304. To set Courses, {Blowing Fresh.) 
 Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech lines and 
 the lee buntlines, ease down the lee clew garnet, slack 
 
171 
 
 top bowlines, lower lifts, and lee main braces, get the 
 tacks close on board, haul aft the sheets, haul tf.ut 
 the lee main brace, weather lifts and bowlines,- hook 
 and haul taut your rolling tackle. 
 
 305. To set the Spanker. 
 
 Top up the boom, overhaul lee topping lifts, attend 
 the sheets and weather guy, haul over the lee guy 
 and trim the boom, man the outhaul and attend the 
 brails and vangs, let go the brails, haul out and trim 
 the gaif by the vangs. 
 
 306. To set the Jib, 
 
 Cant the spritsail yard to steady the boom, man 
 the halyards and sheet, see the down haul and brails 
 clear, take in the slack of the sheet to steady the sail, 
 hoist away, and as the sail goes up ease off the sheet 
 when taut up, haul aft the sheet. 
 
 307. J5y the Wind^ a mail falls overboard. 
 
 Silence fore and aft, hard down the helm, cut away 
 the life buoy, haul up the main sail, lay the main 
 yard to the mast, let flow the head sheets, clear away 
 
172 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the lee quarter boat, up foresail and top-gallant sails, 
 wait for the return of the boat, hoist her up, fill away 
 and make sail. 
 
 308. To set a Lower Studding Sail. 
 
 Get the sail athwartships the fore castle, overhaul 
 the gear, haul taut the fore brace, topmast studding 
 sail boom brace, burton trusses and rolling tackle. 
 Man the lower boom topping lifts, forward guy, at- 
 tend the after one, rig out and trim the lower boom, 
 man the halyards and outhaul, hoist away, break 
 stops or haul out the toggle, haul out the tack close, 
 hoist the outer Halyards, taut up, then the inner ones, 
 trim down the sheet. 
 
 Note. The weather studding sails are always 
 set abaft, the lee ones forward, when required to shift 
 them from aft forward, send a hand aloft, lower 
 away, gather in, and get hold of the outer leach, cant 
 the yard, clear, up topmast, or top-gallant studding 
 sail. 
 
 309. To take in Top-gallant Sails 
 
 Man top-gallant clewlines, lay aloft and stand by 
 to furl the sail, attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, 
 and halyards ; round in the weather braces, ease 
 
173 
 
 away the lee sheet and halyards, lower away, ease 
 away the weather sheet, clew up, haul up the bunt- 
 lines, steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail. 
 
 310. To take in a Topmast Studding Sail, 
 
 Man the downhaul, deck sheet, and boom jigger, 
 attend the halyards, tack and short sheet, have meri 
 on the yard to light in the boom, ease away the hal- 
 yards and short sheet, haul down the yard to the 
 tack block, ease away the tack and haul in the sail 
 by the deck sheet and downhaul, rig in the boom, and 
 secure it, unhook th^ burton, and unbend the gear. 
 
 311. To reef Topsails and Courses. 
 
 Call all hands, reef topsails, man the topsail clew- 
 lines and buntlines, weather braces and downhaul 
 tackles, have hands to attend the halyards, bowlines, 
 and lee braces, clear away the bowlines, round in the 
 weather braces, ease away the topsail halyards, clew 
 down, haul up the buntlines and out reef tackles; 
 haul taut the halyards again. Luff to, shake the top- 
 sails, lay aloft topmen, man the boom tricing lines. In 
 taking in the first reef the band is hauled well up on 
 the yard, the earing passed from forward aft, and the 
 
 forward points should be well taut. The second reef 
 
 15* 
 
174 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 band comes below the first, and the third below the 
 second ; the earings passed in the same manner. 
 The close reefed band comes directly under the yard ; 
 this earing is passed from aft to forward, and the after 
 points are hauled well taut, before knotting, light 
 over to windward, take two outer turns with the 
 earing, then expend the end through the thimble 
 and over the yard ; light over to leeward, pass your 
 earing and take care to tie the points clear of the top- 
 gallant sheets. In close reefing it is necessary to start 
 the sheets, in order to get earings close out. Lay in, 
 down booms, lay down from aloft, excepting the men 
 stationed to overhaul the reef tackles, and light the 
 rigging up. Let go, and overhaul the reef tackles 
 and buntlinCs, lead along the topsail halyards, attend 
 the braces and hoist away ; take care not to hoist 
 them so taut as to endanger the yards. When up, 
 trim the sails, and haul the bowlines, hook and haul 
 taut the rolling tackles. 
 
 Haul up the courses, overhaul and hook top bur- 
 tons to the reef pendants, and haul them taut, slack- 
 ing the leech lines and clew garnets, and haul taut 
 the lifts and braces, trusses and rolling tackles. Lay 
 aloft lower yard men, man the boom jiggers^ 
 trice up, lay out and reef. The earings and points 
 are passed like those of a topsail, observing to pass 
 the latter clear of the topsail sheets. The second 
 reef is generally taken with a line ; the points taken 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 175 
 
 out of the sail for that purpose ; the line is cut in 
 four pieces, which are used as a lacing ; when reefed, 
 lay in, down booms, and lay down from aloft ; un- 
 hook the burtons, and set up the courses, clew up 
 and pipe down. 
 
 Note. To reef when going large, luff to so as to 
 shake the sail ; to close reef, clew up. (See reef 
 lines for topsails.) 
 
 312. To Reef Topsails^ in Stays. 
 
 Call all hands to tack ship, send aloft one watch 
 of Topmen, and see the remainder properly station- 
 ed, ease down the helm and haul over the spanker 
 sheet, as she comes too, overhaul the lifts and trusses 
 and when hard down, '' Helm's a lee," ease off the 
 jib, and if necessary the fore sheets, w^hen the leeches 
 of the courses shake ; rise tacks and sheets ; over- 
 haul, and bear abaft the weather back stays, when 
 the wind is about a point on the weather bow, stand 
 by the main and mizen topsail halyards, (main sail 
 hawl,) let go the main and mizen topsail halyards, 
 and take care not to brace them up too much, let the 
 men from the clew garnets and braces, haul out the 
 reef tackles, and up buntlines, trice up, lay out and 
 reef, set up the after breast backstays, and man the 
 head braces, when head to wind, brail up the jib, 
 
176 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 cant the spritsail yard, bear over the spanker boom, 
 and haul aft the jib sheet, as soon as it will take ; 
 when she gets sternboard, shift the helm when the 
 spanker and mainsail are full, stand by the fore top- 
 sail halyards, (let go and haul) ease away the hal- 
 yards, and let the men from the jib brails and fore 
 clew garnets, haul out the reef tackle, and up bunt- 
 lines, avast bracing, trice up, lay ou^ and reef, set up 
 the forward back stays. As soon as the main and 
 mizen topsail are reefed, let the^ men lay in, down 
 booms and overhaul the rigging, lead along and man 
 the halyards, attend the braces, hoist away and trim 
 the topsails by the braces, which will catch her, if 
 falling off, as soon as the fore top sail is reefed^ send 
 the men down, brace up the fore yard, lead along, 
 and man the top sail halyards, hoist and trim the 
 sail, trim all sharp, haul the bowlines, haul taut the 
 lifts, trusses, and rolling tackles. Clear up and pipe 
 down. 
 
 313. To Part a Weather Topsail Brace Reefing. 
 
 Haul the lee reef tackle close out so as to tauten 
 the leech, haul forward on the lee top bowline, clear 
 away the weather one, the lee braces and trusses, 
 and round in on the weather brace ; when the yard 
 is clear of the topmast rigging avast hauling and 
 r«eve preventer braces immediately. 
 
177 
 
 Note. The burton might be hooked from the 
 weather yard arm to the after part of the top to wind- 
 ward. 
 
 314 To Part a Topsail Parrel 
 
 Haul taut the braces, take a piece of stout rope, 
 and pass it around the topmast, and the strops of the 
 tye blocks, heaving it taut, pass a new parrel. 
 
 315. To Take in a Close Reefed Topsail. 
 
 Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding 
 in the weather topsail brace as much as possible, man 
 the clewlines and buntlines, attend the sheets and 
 bowlines, clew up the lee sheet, and haul up the 
 buntline, if to save the yard, haul up to leeward, first 
 point the yard to the wind, and steady it again, lay 
 out and furl the sail. 
 
 Note. The sail is not clewed down, because when 
 a topsail is close reefed the yard is barely clear of . 
 the cap. 
 
 316. To Take in a Course. 
 Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the 
 
178 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 clew garnets, buntlines, and leech lines, ease away 
 the tack and bowlines, haul up to windward, ease 
 off the sheet, haul up, get the sail close to the yard 
 and furl it. 
 
 317. To Take in a Spanker. 
 
 Man well the brails and weather vang, attend 
 the outhaul and lee vang, ease away the outhaul, 
 haul over on the weather vang, brail up to leeward, 
 ease off the sheet, haul taut the weather brails, pass 
 the foot gaskets, steady the gaff and crutch the 
 boom. 
 
 318. To Take in a Jib. 
 
 Man the downhaul, attend the halyards and sheet, 
 let go the halyards, ease off the sheet handsomely, 
 haul down and stow it. 
 
 319. To Set a Close Reefed Topsail. 
 
 Point the yard to the wind, and brace the lower 
 yard a little sharper than the topsail yard ; man the 
 sheets, attend the buntlines, and loose the sail, over- 
 haul the lee buntline, ease down lee clewlines, and 
 
TOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 1/9 
 
 haul home the lee sheet, ease off the weather bunt- 
 line, at the same time slack down the weather clew- 
 line, and haul home the weather sheet, hoist the yard 
 up clear of the cap, brace up, and haul the bowline, 
 steady the lower and topsail yards, with braces and 
 rolling tackles. 
 
 320. The Jib Splits. 
 
 Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and 
 hoist the fore topmast stay sail, hitch the downhaul 
 around the body of the sail, also pass stops around 
 it, take the end of a rope from the fore castle and 
 bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib stays, bend 
 a line on to the end and unreeve it, haul taut the 
 halyards, ease off the downhaul and haul in, get up, 
 overhaul, and bend a new one, seize on the sheet, 
 bend on the halyards, and downhaul, stop the sail, 
 haul out by the downhaul and halyards, reeve tha 
 jib stay, turn it in, set it up, pass the tack lashing, 
 and reeve the brails, set the jib and haul down tha 
 stay sail. 
 
 321. A Close Reefed Topsail iSplits. 
 
 Clew the sail up and steady the yard, cast off some 
 of the rope bands, so as to pass stops around the sail 
 
180 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 to secure it, unbend the sheets, bowlmes and lee 
 buntlines, unreeve lee clewline and reef tackle, fetch 
 the weather buntline round the sail, and make the 
 lee earing fast to the buntline, hook a burton to a 
 strop around the sail, cast off all the rope bands and 
 lower away, ease away the weather earing and lower 
 away the sail on deck, stretch the new sail, over- 
 haul it, then reef the sail at the foot, commencing at 
 the close reef, and taking each of the three lower 
 reefs separately, then bight it down and send it aloft 
 as ^described before, observing to use the weather 
 topsail halyards, reeve and bend the gear, stopping 
 the head of the sail to the buntlines, have yard jig- 
 gers hooked to bring the sail to the yard, pass the 
 earings and rope bands, also in the same manner, 
 bring the first reef to the yard, cast out the fourth 
 reef, haul up the sail, then bring the reef to the yard, 
 after which seitthe sail as before. 
 
 322. A Course ^Splits. 
 
 Haul up the sail, cast off a few rope bands to pass 
 stops around it, unbend the leech lines, slablines and 
 bowlines, cast off the lee earing and make it fast to 
 the lee buntlines, lower away the clue garnets, and 
 buntlines, ease off the weather earing, and lower on 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 181 
 
 deck, unbend the bnntlines, unlash the tack, sheet 
 and clew garnet blocks, overhaul the new sail, lash 
 on the blocks and bend all the gear, pass stops around 
 the sail to keep it home, then bring it to the yard, 
 with yard jiggers and bnntlines as in No, 173 ; when 
 the sail is bent, cast off the stops and set it. 
 
 323. To Bend a New Course^ before the Old one 
 is Unbent. 
 
 Overhaul the new sail athwart the deck, stopper 
 the clews of the old one, un reeve all the gear excep 
 the clew garnets, bend the gear to the new one, stop 
 the head to the buntlines, hook yard and clew jig 
 gers, send men on the yard to cast off every other 
 rope band, and unreeve the head earings, out of their 
 respective strops, making them fast around the yard, 
 sway up the new sail, forward of the old one, bring 
 jt to the yard, and bend it the same, as if there were 
 no other bent, overhaul the rigging and set it, haul 
 up the old one, cast off the rope bands and send it 
 down by the burtons or top gallant yard rope and 
 clew garnets, unreeve the clew garnets, and reeve 
 them to the new sail, pass the remainder of the rope 
 bands. 
 
 Note. This plan might be of advantage, when in 
 chase, whenlhe sail has been riddled with shot. Li 
 
 16 
 
182 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 lowering either a topsail, or a course, the top gallant 
 yard or mast rope is useful, making it fast round the 
 bunt. 
 
 324. To tSecure the Guns for a Gale. 
 
 The lower deck guns were secured, when the 
 ship first got to sea. The main deck guns should 
 be run in and secured in the same manner, then put 
 in the upper half ports and port bucklers, particular 
 care should be taken not to wood the tompions, as 
 the great object of housing guns rs to take the strain 
 off the side of the ship. 
 
 To secure a carronade, run in and put the hous- 
 ing chock in, forward of the gun, haul taut the side 
 tackles, and rack the falls, hook the train tackle 
 around the breech as before, pass the breast lashing, 
 and secure the equipments of the gun. 
 
 325. The Breeching Bolts begin to Draw, 
 
 Reeve hawsers fore and aft, set them well taut, 
 lash them to the pomelions of the guns, then frap 
 them between every two guns, with stout lashings 
 to the fighting bolts. 
 
183 
 
 326. A Gun Breaks Adrift. 
 
 Chock it with hammocks, and lash it in the best 
 manner possible, get to its own port the first oppor- 
 tunity, reeve a new breeching, train and side tackles. 
 
 327. To Send down Top Gallant Yards. 
 
 Call all hands down top gallant yards, unhook 
 the top gallant tye, hook or lash the jack block to it, 
 reeve top gallant yard rope, bend it on to the slings 
 of the yard, and two thirds out to leeward, unbend 
 all the gear, bend on the tripping line and send it 
 down to windward, trice up the jack block, man the 
 yard rope, and lee lift, attend the lee braces and 
 weather lift, haul in a little of the weather braces, to 
 clear the topsail yard, and when all ready, " sway 
 away," bousing on the lee lift, and casting off the 
 Parrel lashing, at the same time unrig the yard arms, 
 lower away and stop the yard amidships on depk, 
 stop the gear, sway in, trice down the jack block, 
 and round up top gallant yard ropes. 
 
 328. To House Top Gallant Masts. 
 
 Hook top blocks, and reeve the short mast rope, 
 hook mast burtons, and man the falls, attend the 
 
 -Hi 
 
184 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 lanyards of the rigging and stays, slack a -few inches, 
 sway away and take out the fids, and lower, haul- 
 ing down on the back stay, and fore and aft stays, 
 when low enough take a tarn with the falls, pass 
 heel lashings through the fid hole, and around the 
 topmast, having old canvass in the wake, stop in the 
 rigging, sheepshank the backstays, and take in the 
 slack of the fore and aft stays. If the masts are to 
 be sent down on deck, the long mast ropes are to be 
 rove, and the burton hooked to a lizard, dogged up 
 the mast rope, sway up, out fid, and lower as before ; 
 bend on and send down a heel rope as a guy, rack 
 both parts of the mast rope together, hitch it around 
 the top gallant mast head and mast rope, take a turn 
 with the mast rope on deck, come up the burton fall, 
 unhook it and take off the lizard, lower away, clap- 
 ping stops around the mast rope and pole as it goes 
 down, stow it amidships, on deck, and round up the 
 mast rope. Lash the cylinder and royal rigging to 
 the topmast cap, stop it in below, take in the slack of 
 the stays, and sheepshank the back stays. 
 
 329. On a Lee Shore j Under Top Gallant Sails ^ 
 Jib J Courses and Spanker y the Wind increases 
 to a three reefed Topsail breeze. 
 
 Take in the top gallant sails, jib and spanker, hoist- 
 

 YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 185 
 
 ing the fore topmast and mizen stay sails at the same 
 time. Clew down the fore and mizen topsails, take 
 in three reefs and set them. Clew the main down, 
 reef and set it. The gradual redaction is made to 
 keep way on the ship constantly. 
 
 330. To Tack &hip Under Doubk Reefed Top- 
 sails. 
 
 Call " all hands about ship," and station them pro- 
 perly. Watch for a smooth, time, ease down the 
 helm, haul down the jib, haul aft the spanker sheet, 
 as she comes too, "helm's a lee," ease oflf the fore 
 sheet, keeping the tack fast to help her round against 
 the sea, when the leeches of the courses lift, rise 
 main tack and sheet, overhaul lifts and trusses, and 
 bear abaft the breast back stays, the wind nearly 
 ahead. " Mainsail haul," set up the after breast back 
 stay fails, brace sharp up the after yards, haul the 
 bowlines, shift over the jib sheet, cant the spritsail 
 yard, run up the jib as soon as it will take, and bear 
 over the spanker boom. When she gets sternway 
 shift the helm, rise fore tack and sheet, when the 
 after sails fill, <' let go and haul." Haul forward fore 
 tack and fore top bowline, set up the forward breast 
 back stays, and if she falls rapidly off, avast bracing 
 as she comes to meet her with the helm, brace up, 
 16* 
 
186 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 gather aft, brace the yards, haul taut weather braces, 
 lifts, trusses, rolling tackles and bowlines, clear up 
 and pipe down. 
 
 Note. The head yards are not braced in. In or- 
 der to preserve the ship's headway to enable her to 
 pass the direction of the wind in light breezes, and a 
 smooth sea, bracing in is an advantage. 
 
 331. Missing Stays^ to Club-haul Her. 
 
 As this is only done on a lee shore, rouse up a 
 range of the cable, bend and bitt it, have hands by 
 the lee anchor, and others standing by to cut or slip 
 the cable, ease down the helm and proceed as in 
 tacking, if she makes a stand before bringing the 
 wind ahead, she will fall off again, therefore let go 
 the anchor, and haul the mainsail, when the main 
 tack is down shift the helm, for a sternboard, and 
 being sure of the cast, cut or slip the cable and run 
 the jib up, as soon as it will take, when full abaft, 
 haul the head yards, &c. 
 
 Note. A hawser from one of the lee quarter 
 ports, may be bent to the cable or anchor, which be- 
 ing boused upon, will act as a spring to bring her 
 stern to windward. 
 
187 
 
 332. To he on a Lee Shore under close reefed Top- 
 sails^ reefed Courses^ and Fore Storm Stay Sail^ 
 it is necessary to reduce sail. 
 
 A ship in this situation, should have her preventer 
 braces, tacks, sheets, and Hfts, rove so that the yards 
 are well steadied. Take in and furl the close reefed 
 topsails, pointing the yards to the wind, endeavour to 
 claw off under reefed courses, and fore storm stay 
 sail. 
 
 Note. A ship can be much nearer the wind, un- 
 der her courses alone, than she can if she has close 
 reefed topsails over them, since the latter cannot be 
 braced, so as to bring the wind much forward of the 
 beam. Another advantage is, that the courses being 
 much nearer the centre of gravity, do not bury her 
 so much. 
 
 333. A Sfiip 071 Shore J what to do. 
 
 Out boats and spare spars, with which construct 
 rafts, carry out and place the anchor for heaving ofl. 
 Send down the light spars, yards, and topmasts, rig 
 in jib boom, get out all the stores and provisions, and 
 place them on the rafts which are anchored by kedges. 
 Start all the water, and bend buoy ropes to the guns, 
 and heave' them overboard; if the tide falls much 
 before the preparations can be made, get shoars out 
 
188 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 to keep her upright. Break out the hold, lash the 
 casks, under the bottom, get out kentledge and stow 
 it on the rafts. 
 
 At high water, heave her off the same way she 
 came on. Moor her securely, stow the hold and 
 weigh the guns. 
 
 Note. It would be advisable to unhang the rud- 
 der. 
 
 334. Precautions for Scudding. 
 
 Scudding should be performed under as little sail 
 as possible, so that in the event of broaching too, or 
 being brought by the lee, she can be more easily re- 
 covered. The sails under which ships are generally 
 scudded, are a closed reefed topsail, fore sail, and fore 
 storm stay sail. The relieving tackles should be 
 hooked, and hands stationed by them. A tackle 
 hooked to the lee fore tack, would be of service in 
 filling the fore sail. When brought by the lee, the 
 yards should be well steadied, and breast back stays 
 well rigged out, the braces and bowlines, lifts and 
 trusses, rolling tackle, and backstay falls, should be 
 clear for bracing around. The clew garnets, clew- 
 lines, and buntlines, lead along ready for hauling up 
 the sails. 
 
 x^ 
 
189 
 
 335. A iShip Broaches too. 
 
 Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if 
 necessary, shiver the after yards ; should she still 
 come too, and the sails taken aback, brace about the 
 head yards, and use the helm if necessary, if she 
 should get too much sternboard, in falling off, haul 
 up the fore sail and pay her off with the fore storm 
 stay sail, fill the after yards as soon as possible, to 
 gather headway, and when she has fallen off suffi- 
 ciently, brace about the head yards, and trim as be- 
 fore. 
 
 336. Brought by the Lee, 
 
 If she has headway, which probably will be the 
 case, put the helm a-weather, but if she has sternway 
 put it a-lee. Man the braces and fore clew garnets, 
 brace about the head yards, and keep the others 
 barely full ; when before the wind square the head 
 yards, and bring her to her course again. If the 
 main topsail will not brace about readily, let fly the 
 weather sheet and clew up, the wind acting on the 
 dew only, will bring the yard round, when the wea- 
 ther sheet may be hauled home again. 
 
 Note. A ship might be said to be brought by the 
 lee, when struck aback by a change of wind. Use 
 the helm for headway or sternway as before, brace 
 
190 
 
 round the after yards, and when they are full, the 
 head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but is 
 not thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the 
 ship might get too rapid sternway, which would be 
 dangerous in a heavy sea. As the object is to 
 preserve the headway, the yards are braced round as 
 soon as possible. If scudding under the main topsail 
 and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the 
 fore topsail, for the main being nearer the centre of 
 gravity, has less~tendency to bury the ship, and she is 
 consequently more easily steered. In scudding under 
 main topsail and foresail ; the ship is to be brought 
 by the wind. Should she have a tendency to gripe, 
 keep the foresail on her, but if otherwise, take in the 
 foresail, and set the fore storm stay sail, brace up the 
 head yards, then the after ones, watch for a smooth 
 time, and ease down the helm, taking care to meet 
 her in due season. The reason for bracing up the 
 head yards before luffing is, in scudding, the ship 
 has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm very 
 quickly ; moreover, the sea acting with violence on 
 the quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and un- 
 less the head yards are braced up so as to prevent 
 that, she will be in the same situation as if she had 
 broached too. 
 
 337. To Heave the Ship too. 
 Having determined from the known quality of the 
 
191 
 
 ship, what sails would be best to heave to under — 
 bring by the wind as in the last question. If going 
 to lay too under a main topsail when by the wind, 
 haul up and furl the foresail, down fore storm stay 
 sail ; if under the lower stay sails, hoist them, taking 
 in the fore sail and main topsail at the same time. 
 The helm is kept a lee whilst laying too. 
 
 Note. It is best to bring by the wind under the 
 square sails, as the ship is more under command than 
 she would be if they were furled. 
 
 338. To Veer Ship, under close reefed Main Top- 
 sail and Storm Stay Sails. 
 
 Call all hands " veer ship," and station them, have 
 lifts, trusses, and rolling tackles attended, so that the 
 yard and top- mast may be well supported in the 
 heavy rolling which they are likely to experience. 
 Haul down the mizen storm-stay sail and when she 
 falls off, up helm, ease off the main storm stay-sail 
 sheet, and brace in the main yard and cross jack- 
 yard, at the same time taking care to keep the mala 
 top sail full, to preserve the head way, and to keep 
 her a-head of the sea, also to keep it from splitting, 
 when the wind is on the quarter, haul down the 
 main storm staysail, and shift over the sheet, when 
 before the wind, right the helm and square the head 
 yards, shift over the fore storm staysail sheet, watch 
 
192 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 for a smooth time to bring her to, ease down the 
 helm, and hoist the mizen storm staysail when the 
 wind is on the quarter brace up the yards, hoist the 
 main storm staysail, haul aft the fore storm stay sail 
 sheet, meet her with the helm, trim the sails and 
 haul the main top bowline. 
 
 339. To Veer under a Mainsail. 
 
 Make fast a hawser to the slings of the main yard, 
 take it down forward of the sail, haul it well taut and 
 belay it to the topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands and 
 station them as in the last case, take advantage of her 
 falling off to put the helm up. Ease off the main 
 sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the yards as 
 in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down 
 the cross jack yard, and mizen topsail yard, house 
 the topmast and get a drag over the lee quarter, after 
 which proceed as before, in bracing the yards, and 
 bring by the wind. 
 
 340. To Veer under Bare Poles. 
 
 Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, get 
 a span on the mizen topmast, and bend a hawser to 
 it in board. Send men in the weather fore rigging 
 with tarpaulins, up helm and make use of the yards 
 
 ^^ 
 
193 
 
 as usual. If she should not go off, cut away the mizen 
 mast as a last resort, and veer away the hawser and 
 use the mjzen top-mast as a drag to assist in wearing. 
 
 341. To Cut away the Masts, 
 
 Clear away all the running rigging attached to the 
 mast, cut away the lanyards of the lee rigging, then 
 the lanyards of the stays and weather rigging. 
 
 342. Laying Too under Lower Stay Sails, Veer 
 -; Ship, 
 
 If it does not blow too fresh, the close reefed main 
 topsail may be set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to 
 prevent the ship from being pooped ; then proceed 
 as in No. 340. If she should not go off, clap a lashing 
 rouTt^ ^.^ bunt of the foresail, and set the weather 
 goosewing. Should she still not go off, send down 
 the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of 
 them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen 
 mast. 
 
 343. Laying Too, a Sail is Discovered Ahead, 
 and Close on Board. 
 
 To prevent both ships from coming in contact, 
 17 
 
194 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 which would be the destruction of both, extraordi- 
 nary measures must be resorted to. When laying 
 too, a ship is not under the immediate command of 
 the helm, and as there would be great danger of a 
 collision in case the sails were so arranged as to veer, 
 because she would immediately shoot ahead. There- 
 fore the yards are braced immediately for box-haul- 
 ing, and the dangerous experiment must be tried, in 
 order to avoid the still more dangerous consequences 
 of getting foul of each other. 
 
 Note. Under all sail and close hauled, if a shoal 
 or rock is discovered suddenly ahead, box-haul her; 
 this must be done by putting the helm hard a lee at 
 once, and bracing the yards around as soon as pos- 
 sible, so as to deaden the headway. But if a sail is 
 made close ahead, it is a general custom among sai- 
 lors, for the ship on the larboard tack to give way, 
 the ship on the larboard tack consequenth' «^«ppLng 
 the helm up, and the one on the starboard *i?9j^ard 
 down, thereby running clear of each other. Remem- 
 ber this. 
 
 344. The Fore mast is Carried Away. 
 
 Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist 
 the main stay sail, take in after sail, and endeavour 
 to get her before the wind ; if successful, keep her 
 so, by veering a range of cable over the stern and 
 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 195 
 
 lashing it amidships ; if not, which is more likely to 
 be the case, and should carry away the main topmast 
 also, lay her too under the main stay sail. If the 
 main topmast should stand, clew up the main topsail 
 immediately, get the breast back stays over the top- 
 sail yard, and set them up as far forward as possible, 
 by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the wreck, 
 clear it away, especially the lanyards of the lee rig- 
 ging, so as to preserve the channels and chain bolts, 
 atid endeavour to haul it aboard. Send down the 
 after yards and spars, and save as much of the wreck 
 as possible. Rig a jury fore mast, fitting spars and 
 sails to the best advantage ; when the jury mast is 
 rigged, reeve a main topmast stay, of a hawser, and 
 take the breast back stays aft again, after which cut 
 clear of the wreck. 
 
 345. To rig a Jury Mast. 
 
 Take a spare spar, the largest in board, a main 
 topmast for instance, and launch the head over the 
 night heads, the heel resting against the stump of the 
 old mast, put on crosstrees and bolsters, fit 4he rig- 
 ging and stays from hawsers, and hook a couple of 
 tackles from the jury mast head, which take to the 
 side and haul taut, hook another, which take well aft^ 
 lash the heel to the stump to prevent slipping, and 
 raise the mast with the after purchase, tending the 
 
196 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Stays and pendant tackles, when up, reeve the lan- 
 yards, set up the rigging and stays, cleet and lash the 
 heel securely, ship the cap, send up a top-gallant 
 mast for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yard, 
 and a top-gallant yard for a topsail yard. 
 
 346. The Main mast is Carried Away. 
 
 Hard up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it 
 still stands, clear the wreck, save as much as possible 
 aiid rig a jury main mast. 
 
 347. The Bowsprit is Carried Away, 
 
 Hard up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in 
 after sail, and get the ship before the wind ; take the 
 fore topmast breast back stays forward over the top- 
 sail yard, hook the pendant tackles, and set them up 
 to the cat heads, unreeve the main topmast and spring 
 stays, and set them up to the fore topsail sheet bitts, 
 hitch a hawser to the fore topmast head, take this in 
 through one of the hawse holes, and set it up on the 
 gun deck. While this is performing, let some hands 
 be reducing sail, sending down top-gallant yards and 
 masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck, rig a 
 jury bowsprit of a spare main topmast or a jib boom. 
 
YOUN« SAiLOR^s assistant: 197 
 
 348. A Topmast is Carried Away. 
 
 Get the ship before the wind immediately, and re- 
 duce sail, hook the top blocks and reeve hawsers 
 through them, bend the lee one to the topsail yard, 
 which is probably hanging to leeward of the topmast 
 with the wreck, clew up the topsail if practicable, 
 and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now 
 hangs clear of the topmast, bend the weather hawser 
 to the wreck of the topmast, have guys from the wea- 
 ther side of the deck, clear away the lanyards of the 
 rigging and stays, also the rigging leading to the top- 
 mast head, and send it down on deck. Hook the 
 yard tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the 
 lower yards forward and send down the stump, get 
 the topsail yard down in the lee gangway and repair 
 its damages, while the spare topmast is gut aloft, and 
 secured by the old rigging. Send aloft the yard, set 
 the topsails, and bring her to her course again. 
 
 349. The Jib Boom is Carried Aioay. 
 
 Mind the weather helm, hoist the fore topmast stay 
 sail, and get in the wreck by the fore pendant tackles 
 hooked to the fore stay, reeve a heel rope and get in 
 the stump, point another boom, and rig it with the 
 old rigging if sound, if not, with spare ropes or haw- 
 sers. 
 
 17* 
 
198 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 350. The Foremast and Bowsprit Carried Away. 
 
 Proceed as in No. 347, the remarks being applied 
 to the present case. Lay too under the main stay- 
 sail to leeward of the wreck and repair damages on 
 board in the best manner possible : rig a jury fore- 
 mast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved 
 as many spars, sails, and as much rigging as pos- 
 sible. If the ship lays easily by the wreck, it would 
 probably be well to ride by it, until the gale abates. 
 If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be done 
 as in No. 344, with the assistance of the mainsail, 
 making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the 
 hawser as a spring to the quarter. 
 
 351. The Bowsprit is Sprung. 
 
 Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, 
 and get the ship before the wind, haul down the 
 head sails, come up the main topmast stays, and set 
 them up on deck, get the fore topmast breast back- 
 stays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set 
 them up to the cat head. Come up all the head 
 stays, and rig in the head booms. Send down upper 
 yards and masts^, take the fore topmast stays through 
 the hawse holes and set them up. 
 
 Note. All strain being now off the bowsprit, fish 
 it with the regular fishes, if there are none on board. 
 
199 
 
 use the jib boom, if thought sufficiently strong to 
 bear the strain of the head stays, get them in their 
 proper places, but if not, get stays out merely to make 
 sail. 
 
 352. The Foremast is Sprung Near the Hounds. 
 
 Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce 
 sail and get all strain off the foremast, secure the 
 main topmast as in No. 344, send down top gallant 
 yards and masts, hook the jeers and settle the fore 
 yard, hook top blocks, reeve top pendants, and house 
 the topmasts allowing the heel to come considerably 
 below the defect, fish the foremast with side fishes 
 and the heel of the topmast, wedging the lashings. 
 Clap a lashing around the doublings of the mast 
 head, having chocks between, keep the pendant 
 tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up, 
 wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore 
 yard, close up to the heel of the topmast, reef the 
 head sails to diminish the strain, if required. 
 
 353. A Topmast is Sprung Near the Lower Cap. 
 
 Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail. If 
 a spare topmast is not to be had, the old one may be 
 housed far enough to allow the spring to come some 
 
200 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 feet below the cap, setting the lower yard as in the 
 last case, fit a large chock between the topmast and 
 lower mast head, and clap stout lashings around 
 above and below the defect part, wedging them well, 
 reef the fore sail so that it can be set with the yard 
 in its present place, and also the topsail, to lessen the 
 strain on the weak spar. 
 
 Note. Sheepshank the rigging if required, before 
 setting up. 
 
 354. To Send Aloft a Topmast and a Heavy 
 Sea on. 
 
 After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the 
 burtons to stout strops at the rim of the top on each 
 side, hitch hawsers to the mast head leading one 
 through a large block at the fore top mast head, and 
 another aft, through one at the mizen. Haul the 
 burtons and hawsers taut. Sway aloft the topmast, 
 slacking up as it goes aloft, when fidded, steady the 
 topmast until the rigging and stays are set up. 
 
 355. The Gammoning Carried Away, 
 
 Proceed as in No. 347, until all strain is off the 
 bowsprit, bolt a stout chock on the bowsprit and priss 
 the end of the messenger out of a hawse hole, oVqx 
 the chock in through the other hawse hole and but 
 
201 
 
 it, take' the other end to the capstern, and get the 
 bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger and 
 bob stays, come up the old gammoning and pass a 
 new one. 
 
 356. A Lower Cap Splits. 
 
 Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing 
 around the topmast, and lower mast head, which 
 wedge, after which woold, and wedge the cap. 
 
 357. The Trussle Trees are Sprung, 
 
 Get the ship before the wind, take all sail off the 
 mast, send down top gallant yards and masts, housing 
 the others, hook the top blocks, reeve top pendants, 
 hook top tackles, and bouse them well taut, taking 
 all strain off the fid, pass several stout lashings 
 around the heel of the topmast and lower mast head, 
 cleating them to prevent them slipping, make sail, as 
 the mast will bear. 
 
 358. A Lower Yard is Carried aioay in the Slings, 
 
 If the foreyard. Get the ship before the wind, haul 
 up the foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all the 
 
202 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 sail on the mizen mast, unreeve the fore top sail 
 sheets and board them on deck, bring her on your 
 course again, and haul the bowlines. 
 
 If a main yard, keep on the course, haul up the 
 main sail, clew up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, 
 board them on deck, and haul the bowlines well out, 
 having proceeded thus far, get stout strops around 
 the inner quarter of the yard, and hook the pendant 
 tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops, if 
 the pendant tackles are not at hand, use the burtons. 
 
 Lash the jeer blocks, reeve the jeers, and send the 
 yard down by the jeers, lifts and pendant tackles, fish 
 the lower yards immediately if it can be done, if it 
 cannot, rig a topsail yard for a lower yard. 
 
 359. A Topsail Yard is Carried Away. 
 
 If it is the fore, reduce after sail, mind the weather 
 helm, and keep the ship on her course. If it is the 
 main stand on, then clew up the sail, unbend it, and 
 get it into the top in the best manner possible, get a 
 strop round the topmast head, above the eyes of the 
 rigging, to which hook a large single block, and 
 ^eve a hawser through it. If the yard is completely 
 broken off, bend the hawser which is not secured by 
 the parrel, bend on guys and send it down, then 
 send down the other piece. If it still remains to- 
 
203 
 
 gether, bend on the slings, stop out to leeward, have 
 a tripping line and rolling ropes, and get it fore and 
 aft on deck, take off all the old rigging, which put 
 on to the spare yard in the chains, then bend on the 
 hawser, sway aloft and cross it as in fitting the ship 
 out, have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft, bend 
 the topsail and set it. 
 
 360. The Ship leaks Faster than the Pwnps can 
 free her. 
 
 Find out where the leak is, thrum an old sail very 
 thickly, and some stout ropes attached to each leech, 
 make it up, take it under the, bowsprit, and get the 
 ropes on their respective sides, heave the ship too, 
 when her headway eases, drop the sail overboard, 
 after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, 
 haul aft on the ropes, attached to each clew, when 
 the body of the sail is over the leak, haul well taut 
 all the ropes attached to the leeches and the head 
 which will prevent the sail fr6m going aft, when 
 going ahead, make skil and continue pumping. 
 
 361. The Pumps are Choked. 
 Hoist them out and clear them. 
 
204 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 362. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a 
 Gale. 
 
 Prick the cartridge well down and pour vinegar 
 enough into the touch hole to drown it. 
 
 363. To Throw a Lower Deck Gun Overboard. 
 
 Fit a chock in the port sill, and slip a strop over 
 the pomillion of the gun, to which from the housing 
 bolt, hook a stout tackle, unlash the muzzle, heave 
 up the breech, and put in the bed and coin, unreeve 
 the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and 
 place capstern bars under the breech to ease it, and 
 prevent the gun from slipping back into the carriage 
 again, man the side and port tackles, watch the roll, 
 trice up the port briskly, run out and throw the gun 
 clear of the carriage, by the breech tackles and cap- 
 stern bars, shut in the port immediately. 
 
 364. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and 
 Courses. 
 
 Hook the burtons to the reef pendants, and set 
 taut the lower lifts, ease off the bowlines, rise a little 
 of the tacks and sheets of the courses, and settle a 
 few feet of the topsail halyards, haul taut the reef 
 
205 
 
 tackles and buntlines, and if necessary, round in a 
 little of the weather braces to clear the points of the 
 lee rigging, commence casting off the points at the 
 bunt, taking care to leave none tjed, and turning one 
 reef out at a time, ease away both earings together, 
 overhaul the rigging ; get the tacks on board, sheet 
 home, hoist the topsails up to a taut leech, out bow- 
 lines and make sail. 
 
 365. The Rudder is carried away^ to fit Another. 
 
 Man the braces immediately, take in after sails 
 and let the ship run a little free, rouse up a cable, 
 clove hitch a hawser over the cable, and then pay it 
 overboard, veer away about twenty fathoms and lash 
 it amidships on the taffrail, lead the ends of the 
 hawser through large blocks lashed to the quarters, 
 and clap tackles on to them, steer the ship with this 
 contrivance, until a rudder can be constructed by 
 captain Edward Packenham's method, {see plate.) 
 
 Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rud- 
 der, enlarge the fid hole to receive the tiller if not 
 already large enough, take a spare cap and cut away 
 the after part, so as to fit the stern post at the waters 
 edge, or a little below, pass the topmast through the 
 round hole in the cap, take a spare jib boom and cut 
 it in two, the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the 
 18 
 
206 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 topmast after squaring the edges, which will come 
 in contact with each other, and cutting a score in 
 the forward part of the jib boom, next to the topmast, 
 to allow the cap to have room to play in, plank the 
 whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish 
 abaft all, drive an eye bolt into the heel of the top- 
 mast (now the head of the rudder,) and have kent- 
 ledge attached to the other end to sink it. Take an 
 anchor stock, and square two of the edges, cut away 
 a circular score in each for them to join together, 
 around the topmast below the squares, and thus 
 serve as an upper gudgeon, drive the anchor stock 
 hoops on the rudder head to prevent splitting. Place 
 the rudder on a stnge near the tnffrail, pass a couple 
 of hawsers aft through the hawse holes, and secure 
 them to the heel of the rudder, have tackles on their 
 inner ends, have two more hawsers or parts of haw- 
 sers passed from forward aft, under every thing, one 
 each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye bolts 
 in the cap, have a pendant round as described in 
 No. 172, launch overboard and rouse upon the head 
 rope, heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rud- 
 der to the stern post perpendicularly, secure the cap 
 to the stern post and ihe anchor stock, around the 
 rudder head, sliip the tiller, reeve the wheel ropes, 
 and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may re- 
 main to keep the rudder perpendicular or may be 
 taken off. 
 

206 KEDGB ANCHOR, OR 
 
 topmast after squaring the edges, which will come 
 in contact with each other, and cutting a score in 
 the forward part of the jib boom, next to the topmast, 
 to allow the cap to have room to play in, plank the 
 whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish 
 abaft all, drive an eye bolt into the heel of the top- 
 mast (now the head of the rudder,) and have kent- 
 ledge attached to the other end to sink it. Take an 
 anchor stock, and square two of the edges, cut away 
 a circular score in each for them to join together, 
 around tiie topmast below the squares, and thus 
 serve as an upper gudgeon, drive the anchor stock 
 hoops on the rudder head to prevent splitting. Place 
 the rudder on a stage near the taffrail, pass a couple 
 of hawsers aft through the hawse holes, and secure 
 them to the heel of the rudder, li&ve tackles on their 
 inner ends, have two more hawsers or parts of haw- 
 sers passed from forward aft, under every thing, one 
 each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye bolts 
 in the cap, have a pendant round as described in 
 No. 172, launch overboard and rouse up on the head 
 rope, heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rud- 
 der to the stern post perpendicularly, secure the cap 
 to the stern post and ihe anchor stock, around the 
 rudder head, sliip the tiller, reeve the wheel ropes, 
 and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may re- 
 main to keep the rudder perpendicular or may be 
 taken off. 
 
h'J.ATr. T57. 
 
 & WXex,isXlfh. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 207 
 
 366. A JShip on Fire. 
 
 Hard up the helm, haul up the ccirses, up span, 
 ker, get the ship before the wind, and reduce sail to 
 topsails, beat to quarters, close all tlie ports, muster 
 the men at their stations, call away the fireman, 
 under the charge of their proper officers, let a part fill 
 the engine and wet the sails, while the other part 
 finds out where the fire is, and endeavour to extin- 
 guish it if possible ; extinguish it with bedding, put- 
 ting over the gratings and tarpaulins. The gunner 
 and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to 
 drown the powder at a moment's notice. Let the 
 carpenters rig and fetch the pumps, and the spar 
 deck divisions, clear away the boats, equip them and 
 get them ready for hoisting out. In the above case 
 the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put 
 up because wind is less felt, the ports are shut in, 
 and tarpaulins put on, as they would afibrd air to 
 tllft fire, and the courses hauled up, because they 
 strike a current of air down the hatchways, and also 
 liable to catch. If the fire is on de^k and forward, 
 keep before the wind, if aft, haul close on a wind. 
 
 367. A Ship on Her Beam Ends. 
 
 When the severity of the squall is first felt, hard 
 up the helm and let fly every thing, but if she goes 
 
208 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 on her beam ends, before she can be got off sufficient- 
 ly to diminish the effects of the wind, the best way- 
 will be to cut away the mizen mast, before the head- 
 way ceases, which falling over the lee quarter, will 
 act as a drag to pay her off, should she not tight 
 when before the wind, if there is anchorage, and the 
 cable is bent, cut away the lee anchor, which will 
 bring her around, and catch the sails aback, or if 
 there is not anchorage, get the drag to the lee bow 
 by means of a spring and rouse in, the wind acting 
 on the flat deck, and underside of the sails, will pro- 
 bably right her. As a last resort, cut away the masts, 
 great decision and rapidity of execution is necessary, 
 as the ship must go down, a short time after she 
 goes over. 
 
 368. Wind free, all Sail set, struck hy a Squall. 
 
 Up helm, let fly the main sheet, spanker outhaul ; 
 staysail sheets, and halyards, royal and top gallant 
 studding sail halyards, royal and top gallant sheets, 
 and halyards, haul up the main sail, brail up the 
 spanker, down staysails and order the topmen to 
 haul in the studding sails and stow them. When 
 before the wind right the helm, clew down the top- 
 sails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef tackles, and 
 reef if necessary. Clear up the decks as fa^ as pos- 
 sible. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 209 
 
 Note. In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should 
 be eased off, for if they should get foul when run- 
 ning through their blocks fiist. Spars miglit be en- 
 dangered, but when struck by a severe squall, the 
 effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as pos- 
 sible to save the masts and prevent her from going 
 over. 
 
 369. Struck hy a Squall on a Lee Shore. 
 
 If sail cannot be reduced, luff too and shake her, 
 fill away again, gather head way and luff again. 
 
 370. Struck hy a Squall wider whole Topsails 
 and Courses. 
 
 Up helm, let fly main sheet spanker outhaul and 
 lee topsail sheets, heiul up the main sail, brail up the 
 spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to 
 windward, and let go the halyards, right the helm 
 and reef if necessary. 
 
 371. On a Wind, under whole Topsails, part the 
 weather Main Topsail Brace. 
 
 Haul up the main sail, let go the main brace, haul 
 
 18» 
 
210 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 forward on the lee main top bowline, and aft on the 
 weather main brace, luff too and when the main top- 
 sail shivers, clew it down, haul up the buntlines,out 
 reef tackles and steady the yard by the bowlines, un- 
 til a new brace can be rove. A burton might be 
 hooked as mentioned before, to steady the yard. 
 
 372. The Jib Downhaul parts, 
 
 Untoggle the fore top gallant bowlines and knot 
 them together above the first hank, between the stay 
 and the luff and the jib. 
 
 373. To Chase. 
 
 A vessel that chases another should have the ad- 
 vantage in point of sailing, because if the ship chased 
 is as good a sailer as the chaser, the latter never can 
 come up to her if she manoeuvred equally as well. 
 In order to determine, whether your ship sails faster 
 than your adversary, get upon the same tack under 
 the same sail, and keep upon the same course with 
 her. Set her exactly with a compass and if your ship 
 sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more aft, if 
 she has the advantage, she will in a short time draw 
 more forward, and if both sail equally well, she will 
 remain at the same point. 
 
YouNtf sailor's assistant; 211 
 
 374. To Chase to windward. 
 
 To chase to windward, run upon the same course 
 with the enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly 
 to the course, when tack and continue the second 
 board, until he is again brought perpendicularly to 
 the same course, always continue this manouvre by 
 tacking every time the chase is abeam on either 
 board, and she will be come up with in the shortest 
 method, by your superiority of sailing. Should the 
 chase pass the point, when the chase bears abeam, 
 he must go about with all despatch. 
 
 Note. The chase goes about as soon as the chase 
 is exactly abeam, because at that time the distance 
 between them is the least possible upon the different 
 boards they hold. 
 
 375. Observations for the Ship to windward^ 
 which is Chased, 
 
 The weather ship will always be joined, since it 
 is granted that she does not sail as well as the pur- 
 suer, it will be then to her advantage, to keep con- 
 stantly on the same tack, without losing time to 
 heave about, for tacking cannot be 90 favourable to 
 her as to her adversary, whose sailing is superior. 
 
 If the chaser mistakingly stands on aad tacks iii 
 
212 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the wake of the chase, the best course for the latter 
 to pursue is, to heave about and pass to windward of 
 him on the other tack, unless you suppose your ves- 
 sel would have a superiority in going large, for if the 
 chaser persists in tacking, in the wake of the other 
 ship, the chase will be much prolonged. 
 
 376. To Chase to Leeward, 
 
 If the chaser keeps away, to cut the chase off, and 
 keeps continually on that course they will at last 
 come together, where the two courses intersect, this 
 will be exactly executed by the ship in chase, if in 
 the course she has taken, she keeps the chase con- 
 tinually upon the same degree of the compass, as at 
 the beginning of the pursuit. This principle applies 
 equally to all the courses which the retreating 
 ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accom- 
 plished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase 
 takes another course, than that which keeps the two 
 ships upon the same point. These are the only con- 
 siderations to be made, and they may be corrected 
 by observing the bearings by an azimuth compass. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 213 
 
 377. To Windward of an Enemy within pistol 
 shotj the Weather Main Rigging is shot away^ 
 both ships with main topsails to the mast. 
 
 Up helm, fill away and run the enemy on board, 
 before she gets headway to prevent it. 
 
 378. Wind on the Quarter^ all sail set^ hriiig by 
 under double reefed topsails. 
 
 Reduce sail regularly and clew down the topsails? 
 luff too enough to reef, hoist the topsails and haul 
 close on a wind. 
 
 379. Wind on the Quarter y all sail sety bring too 
 on the other tacky under double reefed topsails. 
 
 Reduce sail to topsails, station the crew forward* 
 with one watch of top men aloft to reef : brail up the 
 spanker, up helm, brace in, and when before the 
 wind, clew down the topsails, haul out reef tackles 
 and up buntlines, let the men lay out and reef; wind 
 on the quarter, brace up cross jack yard, and haul 
 out the spanker, as she comes too, brace up the fore 
 yard, and meet her with the helm and jib sheet, when 
 coming too, a good opportunity will be offered for 
 
214 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 reefing^ when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting 
 the main go up aback, the others full. 
 
 Having a dismasted frigate in tow, to heave too. 
 
 Make fast the stream cable to the main mast of the 
 prize, and take it in at the weather gangway, clinch- 
 ing it around the main mast: make fast a stout haw- 
 ser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed amid- 
 ships on the taffrail, so that the prize may either ride 
 on the weather bow, or be roused astern. In case of 
 veering rouse in upon the spring, and the manoeuvre 
 will be performed with more certainty. After it is 
 excuted, the tow rope must be shifted to the opposite 
 gangway, by means of a spring. 
 
 380. How to get the Anchor off the Bows. 
 
 Hook the fore pendant tackle, single the shank 
 painters, and set them taut with the pendant tackles, 
 come up the shank lashings, put the shoes between 
 the bills and bows, by capstan bars, and lower them 
 by the shank painters, as far as necessary. Single 
 and set taut cat head stoppers, and then unlash the 
 
 381. To Anchor J head to wind, wind free. 
 See that the officers and men are at their stations? 
 
215 
 
 and the strictest silence preserved as the ship nears 
 her berth ; take in ail the studding sails, get the bur- 
 tons off the yards and the jiggers off the top-gallant 
 yards. Send the booms and sails down from aloft, 
 man the fore clue garnets, buntlines, and leech lines, 
 the mainsail is hauled up, as the ship is going free^ 
 Topgallant and royal clewlines, "lay aloft," and 
 stand by to furl the sails snug, and square the yards 
 by the lifts and braces, have hands by the fore tack 
 and sheet, top-gallant and royal sheets, halyards, 
 weather braces and bowlines, up foresail, in top-gal- 
 lant sails and royals, furl the sails snug, and square 
 the yards by the lifts and braces, hauling taut the 
 halyards. Man the topsail clew lines and buntlines, 
 weather braces, jib downhaul and spanker outhaul, 
 attend the sheets, halyards and spanker brails, ease 
 down the helm, haul down the jib, haul out the 
 spanker, and when the topsail lifts, clear away the 
 sheets, and clew them up, then let go the halyards, 
 clew down and square away the yards immediately, 
 haul aft the spanker sheet, and when the headway 
 ceases, stream the buoy, stand clear of the cable, when 
 she begins to go astern, let go the anchor, brail up 
 the spanker, crotch the boom, haul taut the guys, 
 light too the cable as fast as she will take it^ until a 
 sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, haul 
 taut and stop in the rigging, send the boat's crews aft 
 
210 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 to lower the boats down, let the boatswain go ahead 
 to square the yards, and clear up the declfs. 
 
 NoTb'. If gohig to moor, veer out, double the moor- 
 ing scope, and then let go the other anchor, now furl -<55; i 
 sails and heave in. 
 
 382. To Anchor on a Lee Shore. 
 
 The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to 
 veer, recourse must be had to letting go all the an- 
 chors. For this purpose all the cables are bent and 
 ranged, and all the anchors got ready for letting go ; 
 the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts, and 
 the weather bower to the after bitts to windward, the 
 lee bower to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to 
 the after ones to leeward. No buoy rope is bent ex- 
 cept to the weather sheet, the weather sheet is backed 
 by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges, 
 see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm stay 
 sails, and furl all the square sails, hook the yard 
 tackles, get the lower yards forward and house top- 
 masts, when all ready, keep her a little off to get head- 
 way. Let go the weather sheet and stream anchor 
 and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge, 
 down helm, haul down fore and main storm stay 
 sails, and the drift to leeward will carry her to the 
 berth of the last anchor; which let go, haul down the 
 
217 
 
 mizen storm stay sail, and veer away an equal scope 
 on all four cables, observe that they will bear an equal 
 strain, and veer to a long scope, reservinoj sufficient 
 to freshen the nip with. See that the cables are well 
 rounded, and watch them carefully. If she should 
 drag, sling the guns with the stoutest spare rigging 
 on board, having a round turn around all these 
 cables, and heave them over ; if she should still drag, 
 cut away the masts, and if there is no possibility of 
 preventing her from going on shore, take a stout 
 spring to one of the quarters, slip the cables, let her 
 veer round and go on shore end on. 
 
 Note. In weighing these anchors, bring too. first 
 on the cable which has got the least scope out, taking 
 in the slack of the others with deck tackles. 
 
 383. Scudding under a Foresail^ to come to ait' 
 Anchor. 
 
 Get both bowers ready for letting go, haul up the 
 
 foresail, making a due allowance for headway, and 
 
 run in under bare poles ; when near the berth, down 
 
 helm and haul out the spanker and aft mizen storm 
 
 stay sail sheet, when by the wind, let go the weather 
 
 anchor, and veer away briskly, when head to wind,^ 
 
 let go the lee anchor, and haul down the stay sail, 
 
 veer too and bring an equal strain on both cables, if 
 
 necessary, let go more anchors. 
 
 19 
 
 A* 
 
218 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 384. To make a Flying Moor. 
 
 Make all necessary preparations for coming too, 
 overhaul and bitt a double range of the weather cable> 
 and bitt the lee one at the range to which she is to be 
 moored. When approaching the anchorage, reduce 
 sail to topsails, jib, and spanker, if moderate, but if 
 fresh, to jib and spanker only. When near the berth 
 of the first anciior luff too, stream the buoy, and when 
 the headway has nearly ceased, let go the weather 
 an'chor, np helm, stand on and veer away roundly, 
 to prevent the range from checking her, when the 
 full range is nearly out, hard down tlie helm, down 
 jib, clew up the topsails and out spanker ; when the 
 headway ceases, right the helm, up spanker and let 
 her lay the range out taut, when taut let go the lee 
 anchor, furl sails, bring too on the weather cable, 
 veering away on the lee one, and heave in to the 
 moorings. Moor taut to allow for veering, clap on 
 service and veer it, square the yards, haul taut and 
 stop in the rigging, and clear up the decks. 
 
 385. To Moor with a Large Scope of Chain. 
 
 Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer 
 away nearly the whole of the two cables, then let go 
 the anchor, bring too on the first cable, heave in, veer- 
 ing away on the other ; when in to the moorings, clap 
 on rounding, veer, stopper and unshackle the chains. 
 
219 
 
 386. Blowing Fresh in Port. 
 
 Range the cables, see the anchor clear and an an- 
 chor watch set, have leadsmen in the chains, send 
 down the upper yards if not already down, house 
 top-gallant masts, and point the yards to the wind. 
 
 387. JSend dow7i Lower Yards. 
 
 Send aloft the jeer blocks, lash them and reeve the 
 jeers, see the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove 
 and lifts clear for unreeving, hook the yard tackles 
 and take them forward, heave taut the jeers, unreeve 
 the lanyard of the slings, attend the braces and yard 
 tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts, when down 
 make all fast. 
 
 388. To house Topmasts. 
 
 Hook top blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the 
 rigging clear that leads to the topmast heads, man 
 the top tackle falls, slack the lanyards of the rigging, 
 stays, and backstays ; sway up, out fid, lower away, 
 and haul down on the rigging, when low enough, pass ^ '4B; 
 heel lashings around the lower masts, having canvass -^ ^ 
 in the wake, haul taut the rigging and stays, sheep- 
 shank the backstays, haul taut the rigging and make 
 all snug. 
 
220 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Note. The topmast may be housed with the lower 
 yards aloft, by taking the yard tackles forward and 
 bowsing upon them, slacking the braces and trusses. 
 
 389. To Back a Bower hy a Stream. 
 
 Bend the stream cable to the flukes of the bower 
 anchor, observing to let go the stream first, and when 
 the cable is taut let go the bower. If the bower is 
 already down and dragging, form a clinch with the 
 stream around the cable, and let her drag until she 
 brings the stream ahead. 
 
 390. To Sweep for an Anchor. 
 
 Make use of some long stout running rigging, 
 middle it, attach some sinker to the middle, also along 
 the bight to confine it to the bottom. Coil it away in 
 two boats, and pull to windward of where the anchor 
 is supposed to lie, then pull in an opposite direction, 
 veering away on the bight from both boats, now pull 
 in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight 
 catches, cross the boats and get a round turn in the 
 rope, make a running bowline on the end of a hawser 
 around the rope and slip it down, when fast, weigh 
 with the launch. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 221 
 
 EXPLANATION OF SEA TERMS. 
 
 Aback. — A Sail is a-back when its forward sur- 
 face is acted upon by the wind. 
 
 Abaft. — The hinder Part of a Ship — Behind — 
 thus abaft the Foremast^ means any thing nearer 
 to the Stern than the Foremast. 
 
 A-hoard. — In the Ship — as the Cargo is a-board. 
 A Ship is said to fall a-boardj when she runs foul 
 of another. To get a-board the Main Tack, is to 
 bring the Clew of the Mainsail down to the Chess- 
 tree. 
 
 About. — A Ship is said to be going about^ when 
 in the Act of Tacking ; the Order for which is 
 " ready about there /" 
 
 A-breast. — Opposite to. 
 
 A-drift. — Broken loose from the Moorings. 
 
 A-float. — Swimming — not touching the Bottom. 
 
 Afore. — That Part of the Ship nearest to the Stem, 
 or Head. 
 
 Aft. — Behind — as ^^ Stand further aft,^ stand 
 nearer to the Stern. 
 
 4/j^er.— Hinder — as the aftnr Ports — those Ports 
 
 nearest the Stern. — After Sails, after Hatchway^ ^*c. 
 19* 
 
222 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR /* 
 
 A-ground. — Not having Water enough to float the 
 Ship, which rests on the Ground. 
 
 A-head. — Before the Ship. 
 
 A'lee. — The Helm is a-lee when the Tiller is put 
 to the lee Side. Hard a-lee^ when it is put as far as 
 it will go. 
 
 All in the Wind. — i. e. when the Wind blows on 
 the Leeches, or outward Extremities of the Sails, 
 and causes them to shake. 
 
 All hands, hoy ! — The word given by the Boat- 
 swain and his Mates at the Hatchways, to assemble 
 the Ship's Company. 
 
 A-loft. — Up above. In the Rigging. On the 
 Yards. At the Mast Head, (fcc. 
 
 Alongside. — Close to the Ship, 
 
 Amidships. — In the Middle of the Ship. The 
 Helm is amidships^ when the Tiller is not put 
 over either to one Side or the other. 
 
 To Anchor. — To let the Anchor fall over-board, 
 that it may hold the ship. 
 
 To foul the Anchor. — To let the Cable be twisted 
 round the upper Fluke, &c. 
 
 To drag the Anchor.— Vi hen the Ship pulls it 
 with her, from the violence of the Wind. - 
 
 Anchorage. — Ground fit to anchor in. 
 The Anchor is a Cock Bill. — i. e. it is hanging 
 by the Stopper at the Cat Head. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 223 
 
 The Anchor is a-peak. — i. e. near to the Ship : 
 thus at different Distances it is called a long Peakj 
 a stai/ Peak, a short Peak. 
 
 The Anchor is a-weigh or a-trip.-A, e. loosened 
 from the Ground by heaving in the Cable. 
 
 The A?ichor is backed. — i. e. another Anchor is 
 placed at a certain distance before it, and attached to 
 it by the Cable of the former beiiig fastened to it, 
 which fixes it firmly in the Ground. 
 
 The Anchor is catted.— i. e. drawn up to the Cat- 
 head. 
 
 The Anchor is fished.— i. e. its inner Arm is 
 drawn up by the Fish Pendant. 
 
 To loeigh the Anchor.—^o heave it up by the 
 Capstern or Windlass. 
 
 The Sheet Anchor. — is of the same Size and 
 weight as the two Bower Anchors and the Spare An- 
 chor ; it is a resource, and dependence, should either 
 of the Bowers part, for which purpose the Cable is 
 always kept ready bent with a long Range, that it 
 may be let go on an Emergency. 
 
 Best Bower or Small Bower Ajichors. — Are the 
 two Anchors which are stowed the furthest forward, 
 or near the Bows. 
 
 The Stream Anchor.— i^ used to bring the ship 
 up with occasionally, or to steady a Ship wnen she 
 comes to a temporary Moorins^. 
 
 The Kedge Anchor.— ^\\% smallest -of the An- 
 
224 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 chors, to which a Hawser or Cablet is generally 
 bent. 
 
 An End. — Any Spar or Mast placed perpendicu- 
 larly. The Top?nasts are an End, ttiey are sway- 
 ed up and fidded above the lower Mast. All an end, 
 all the Masts are up in their proper stations. 
 
 A-peak.-' See Anchor. 
 
 Ashore.— Oa Land. A-ground. 
 
 J.-5/e7'?i.— Behind the Ship. 
 
 ^/Ai^;ar^." -Across. Athwart Hawse, across the 
 Stem. Athwart-ships, any thing lying in a direc- 
 tion across the Ship. Athwart the Fore Foot, a shot 
 j&red by another Ship across the Bows. 
 
 A trip.— See Anchor. The Topsails are a-trip, 
 i, e. hoisted up. 
 
 Avast.— To cease hauling. To stop. 
 
 A-weiffh.'-See Anchor. 
 
 A-weather.— The Helm is said to be a-iveather, 
 when the Tiller is put over to the windward side of 
 the Ship. Hard a-iveather^ when it is put over as 
 far as it will go. 
 
 Awning.— A. Canyass Canopy placed over the 
 Deck, when the Sun is powerful. 
 
 To Back the Sails.—To expose their forward 
 Surfaces to the Wind, by hauling in the weather 
 Braces. 
 
 Back Stays.— ^o\)es fixed at the Topmast and 
 Top G.illani Mast Head, and extended to the Chains 
 on the Ship's sides. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 225 
 
 To hag-pijje the Mizen.—To bring the Sheet 
 over to the weather Mizen Shrouds, in order to lay 
 it a-back. 
 
 To balance the Mizen.—'RoWing up a Portion of 
 it at the Peak. 
 
 Ballast.— A quantity of Iron, Stone, Gravel, &c. 
 placed in the Hold to give a Ship proper Stability, 
 when she has no Cargo, or but a small quantity of 
 Goods, (fee. 
 
 Bands. — Pieces of Canvass sewn across the Sail, 
 called Reef-bands ; also a piece stuck on the mid- 
 dle of a Sail to strengthen it, when half worn. 
 
 Bar."-A. Shoal running across the Mouth of a 
 Harbour. 
 
 Capstern Bars. —Vieces of Timber put into the 
 Holes in the Drum Head of the Capstern, (where 
 they are secured, with iron Pins) to heave up' the 
 Anchor. 
 
 Bare Poles.— Having no Sail up. 
 
 Battens.— Slips of Wood nailed on the Slings of 
 the Yards, which are eiglit square — also over the 
 Tarpaulings of a Hatchway, to keep out the water 
 in stormy weather. 
 
 Bays.— hi. Men of War, the starboard and larboard 
 sides between Decks, before the Bitts. 
 
 Beams.— Strong; Pieces of Timber across the Ship, 
 under the Decks, bound to the side by Knees. They 
 support and keep the Ship together. 
 
226 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 On the Beam.-'Whan the Wind blows at a right 
 Aiifi^Ie with the Keel. 
 
 Before the Beam.—When the Wind or Object 
 bears on some Point less than a right Angle, or 
 ninety Degrees, from the Ship's haad. 
 
 Abaft the Beam.—When the Wind or Object 
 bears on a Point which is more than a right Angle, 
 or ninety Degrees, from the Ship's Course. 
 
 Bearing.— The Point of the Compass on which 
 any Object appears. It is also applied to an Object 
 which lies opposite to any part of the Ship— thus the 
 Buoy, <fcc. bears on the Beam, the Bow, the Quar- 
 ter, (fee. 
 
 Beating' to Windioard. — Tacking, and endea- 
 vouring to get to windward of some Head Land. 
 
 Becalmed.— Having no Wind to fill the Sails. 
 The Ship being deprived of the Power of the Wind 
 by the intervention of high land, a large Ship, <fec. 
 
 jBec/t:e/5.-- Short Straps, having an Eye in one 
 end, and a donble-walled Knot on the other, for sus- 
 pending a Yard, <fec. till wanted : such are the 
 Beckets for the Royal Yards, for the Bights of the 
 Sheets, <fcc. 
 
 To Belay.— To make fast. 
 
 Bend.— A kind of Knot— as a Sheet Bend, (fee— 
 or a Seizing— such as the Bends of the Cable. 
 
 To Bend.— To make fast— as to bend the Sails, 
 the Cable, <fec. 
 
227 
 
 Bends.— The Streaks of thick Stuff, or strongest 
 Planks in the Ship's sides, on the broadest Part. 
 These are also culled Wales. 
 
 Beticeen Decks.— Any part of the Ship below, be- 
 tween two Decks. 
 
 Bight.- -Any part of a Rope between the ends. 
 Also a Collar or Eye formed by a Rope. 
 
 Bilge. — The flat part of a Ship's bottom. Bilge 
 Wafer, that which rests in the Bilge, either from 
 Rain, shipping Water, <fec. 
 
 Binnacle.— The Frame, or Box which contains 
 the Compass. 
 
 Birlh.—AplcLce of Anchorage. A Cabin, or Apart- 
 ment. 
 
 B itts. —Ij^rge upright Pins of Timber, with a Cross 
 Piece, over which the Bight of the Cable is put ; also 
 smaller ones to belay Ropes, such as Topsail Sheets, 
 (fee. 
 
 To Bitt.— To place a Bight of the Cable over the 
 Bitts. 
 
 5Zoc/.;5.— Instruments with Sheaves or Pulleys, 
 used to increase the Power of Ropes. 
 
 Block dnd Block.— When the two Blocks of a 
 Tackle are drawn so close together that there is no 
 more of the Fall left to haul upon ; it is also termed 
 chock ahlock. 
 
 To make a Board.—To tack. 
 
 To make a Stern Board. — To drive a Ship siern 
 foremost, by laying the Sails a-back. 
 
228 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Boarding.— 'Entering an Enemy's Ship by force. 
 These Men are called Boarders. 
 
 Boarding Netting.- -'Setwork triced round the 
 Ship, to prevent the Boarders from entering. 
 
 Boats.— SmaW Vessels— those belongino- to Ships 
 are— the Long Boat, the Launch, the Cutter , the 
 Yawl, and the Jolly Boat. 
 
 Boatswain.— The Officer who has the charge of 
 the Cordage, Boats, Rigging, (fcc. 
 
 Bobstai/s.— Ropes rove through the Cutwater, 
 and set up with Dead Eyes under the Bowsprit, to 
 act against the power of the Fore Stays— sometimes 
 one of these is taken to the end of the Bowsprit, to 
 act against the Fore Topmast Stays. 
 
 £o/5-^er5.— Pieces of Wood, or Canvass stuffed, 
 placed on the lower Tressle Trees, to keep the Rig- 
 ging from chafing. 
 
 Bolts.— Ivon Fastenings, by which the ^Ship is se- 
 cured in her Hull. 
 
 Bolt JRopes.— Ropes sewn round the edges of the 
 Sails. 
 
 Booms.— li3iTge Poles used to extend the Studding 
 Sails, Spanker, &c. Also, spare Yards, Masts, (fcc. 
 
 Boom Irons.— Iron Caps fixed on the Yard Arms 
 for the Studding-sail Booms to rest in. 
 
 Bov^s.—The round part of the Ship forward. 
 
 To Bowse.— To haul upon. 
 
 Bower.— See Anchor. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 229 
 
 Botolines. — Ropes made fast to the Leeches or 
 Sides of the Sails, to pull them forwards. 
 
 Bowsprit. — A Mast projecting over the Stem. 
 
 Box hauling.— A. Method of waring or turning a 
 Ship from the Wind. 
 
 Boxing q^.— Turning the Ship's Head ftova the 
 Wind, by backing the Head Sails. 
 
 Braces. — Ropes fastened to the Yard Arms to 
 brace them about. Also a security to the Rudder, 
 fixed to the Stern Post. 
 
 Brails. — Ropes applied to the after Leeches of the 
 Mizen, and some of the Staysails, to draw..them up. 
 
 To break Bulk. — To begin to unload. 
 
 To break the Sheer. — To swei-ve from the proper 
 direction in which a Ship should be when at Anchor. 
 
 Breaming. — Burning the stuff which is collected 
 on the Ship's bottom during a long voyage. 
 
 Breast Hooks. — Pieces of Timber placed across 
 the Bows of the Ship, to keep them together. 
 
 Breast Work. — Railing on the fore part of the 
 (Quarter Deck, where Ropes are belayed. 
 
 Breeching. — A stout Rope fixed to the Cascabel 
 of a Gun, fastened to the Ship's side, to prevent its 
 running in. 
 
 Bridles. — The upper part of the Moorings laid in 
 
 harbours for Men of War. Also Ropes attached from 
 
 the Leeches of the square Sails to the Bowlines. 
 
 To bring up. — To come to an Anchor. 
 20 
 
Jf 
 
 230 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 To bring to.— To make a Ship stationary, stop- 
 ping her way^y bracing some of the Sails aback,' 
 and keeping others full, so that they counterpoise 
 each other. 
 
 To bring- by the Z/ee.--When a Ship is sailing 
 with the Wind very large, and flies oif from it so as 
 to bring it on the other side, the sails catching a- 
 back : she is then said to be brought by the Lee— 
 this is a dangerous position in a high Sea. 
 
 To broach ^o.— Flying up in the Wind so as to 
 bring it on the other side, when blowing fresh. 
 
 Bulk heads,— VdiXiiXions in the Ship. 
 
 BulVs Eye.—K wooden Thimble. 
 • Bumkin or Boomkin.—K short Boom fitted to the 
 Bows of the Ship for the purpose of hauling down 
 the fore Tack to. It is supported on each side by a 
 Shroud. 
 
 Buntr--The, middle part of a square Sail. Also 
 the fore Leech of a quadrangular Staysail. 
 
 Buntlbies.—'Ro^Qs attached to the foot of a square 
 Sail to haul it up. 
 
 Burton Pendents. — The first piece of rigging 
 which goes over the Topmast Head, to which is hook- 
 ed a Tackle, to set up the Topmast Shrouds. 
 
 B2ish. — Metal let into the Sheaves of Blocks which 
 have iron Pins. 
 
 Butt End. — The end of a Plank in the Ship's 
 side. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 231 
 
 Buttock, — That parf of the Ship's Hull under the 
 Stern, between the' Water Line and Wing Transom. 
 
 By the Board. — Over the side. A Mast is said to 
 go by the Board when it is carried or shot away just 
 above the Deck. 
 
 By the Head. — When a Ship is deeper in the 
 Water forward than aft. 
 
 By the Stern. — The reverse of by the'^Head. 
 
 By the Wind, — When a Ship is as near to the 
 Wind as her Head can lie with the Sails filled. 
 
 Cabin, — A Room or Apartment : also a Bed Place; 
 
 Cable, — A large Rope by which the Ship is secur- 
 ed to the Anchor. Cables take their names from the 
 Anchors to which they belong, as the JSheet Cable, 
 the best Bower Cable, &c. they are generally 120 
 Fathoms in length. 
 
 To bitt the Cable.— See Bitts. 
 
 To heave in the Cable. — To pull it into the Ship 
 by the Capstern or Windlass. 
 
 To pay out the Cable. — To stick it out of the 
 Hawse Hole. 
 
 To veer aivay the Cable. — To slacken it so that 
 that it may run out, as in paying out. 
 
 To serve the Cable. — To wrap it round with Rope 
 Plait, or Horse Hide, to keep it from chafing. 
 
 To slip the Cable. — To let it run clear out. 
 
 Cable Tier. — That part of the orlop Deck where 
 the Cables are coiled. 
 
232 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR ^ 
 
 v.. 
 
 To coil the Cable. — To lay it on the Deck in a 
 circular form. 
 
 Caboose. — The place where the Victuals are dress- 
 ed in Merchant-men. 
 
 Call — A silver Pipe or Whistle used by the Boat- 
 swain and his Mates, by the sounding of which they 
 call up the hands, direct them to haul^ to veer, to be- 
 lay, &c. ^ 
 
 Canted* — Any thing turned from its square 
 position. 
 
 Canvass, — Strong Cloth, of which the Sails are 
 made. 
 
 Cap. — A Block of Wood which secures the Top- 
 mast to the lower Mast. 
 
 Capsize. — To turn over. 
 
 Capstern. — A Machine for drawing up the Anchor 
 by the Messenger, which is taken round it, and ap- 
 plied to the Cable by the Nippers. 
 
 Careening. — Heaving a Yessel down one side, to 
 clean or repair her Bottom. 
 
 Carrick Bend.— A kind of Knot. 
 
 To Cast.— To pay a Ship's Head off by backing 
 the Head Sails when heaving up the Anchor, sc as 
 to bring the Wind on the side required. 
 
 Cat Block.— A large double or three-fold Block 
 used for drawing the Anchor up to the Cat-head. 
 
 Cat Head.— A. large piece of Timber or Crane 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 233 
 
 projecting over the Bow* for drawing up the Anchor 
 clear from the Ship's side. 
 
 Cat-harpins. — Short legs of Rope seized to the 
 upper part of the lower Shrouds, and Futtock Staves, 
 to keep them from bulging out by the strain of the 
 Futtock Shrouds, and to permit the bracing up of 
 the lower Yards. 
 
 Cafs-paw. — A light Air perceived by its effect on 
 the Water, but not durable. Also a twist made on 
 the Bight of a Rope. 
 
 To Caulk. — To drive Oakum into the Seams of 
 the Sides, Decks, (fee. 
 
 Chains. — Links of Iron bolted to the Ship's side, 
 having dead Eyes in the upper ends, to which the 
 Shrouds are connected by the Lanyards. 
 
 Channels. — Strong broad Planks bolted to the 
 sides, to keep the dead Eyes in the Chains from the 
 side, to spread the Rigging further out. 
 
 Chapelling- — A Ship is said to build a Chapel, 
 when by neglect in light winds she turns round so as 
 to bring the Wind on the same part which it was be- 
 fore she moved. 
 
 Chase. — A Ship pursued by another. 
 
 Bow Chase. — A Gun in the fore part of the Ship. 
 
 /Stern Chase. — A gun pointing a-stern in the after 
 part of the Ship . 
 
 To Chase, — To pursue, to follow. 
 
 20* 
 
234 ' KEDQE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 To Cheer. — To huzza. What cheer ho ! A sa- 
 lutation. 
 
 Chock-a-block. — See Block and Block. 
 
 To clap on. — To make fast, as " clap on the stop- 
 pei^s" (^c. 
 
 To claio off. — To beat to windward from a lee- 
 shore. 
 
 Cleats. — Pieces of Wood to fasten Ropes to. 
 
 Close-hauled. — As near the Wind as the Ship can 
 lie. 
 
 Club-hauling. — Tacking by means of an Anchor. 
 
 Clues ^ or Clews. — The lower Corners of the square 
 Sails. 
 
 Coamings. — The Borders of the Hatchways which 
 are raised above the Deck. 
 
 Coilifig. — Laying a Rope down in a circular form. 
 
 Companion. — A wooden Covering over the Cabin 
 Hatchway. 
 
 Course, — The Point of the Compass on which the 
 Ship sails. The Mainsail, Foresail, and Mizen, are 
 also called Courses. 
 
 Crab. — A small Capstern. 
 
 To cun the Ship. — To direct the Helm's-man how 
 to steer. 
 
 Cut-water. — The Knee of the Head. 
 
 Davit. — A Crane of Timber used for fishing the 
 Anchors. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 235 
 
 Dead Eye. — A Block with three Holes in, to re- 
 ceive the Lanyard of a Shroud or Stay. 
 
 Dog-Vane. — A small Yane made of Cork and 
 Feathers, placed on the weather side of the Quarter 
 Deck. 
 
 DolpJiin. — A wreath of Rope placed round a Mast 
 (see Pudding.) 
 
 To Douse. — To let fly the Halliards of a Topsail 
 — to lower away briskly, (fcc. 
 
 Doxon-hauler . — A Rope to pull down the Stay- 
 sails, Topmast Studding Sails, <fec. 
 
 Drift. — Driving to leeward — driving with the 
 Tide. Drifts are also those parts where the Rails 
 are cut off and end with Scrolls. 
 
 Driver. — A large Sail suspended to the Mizen 
 Gaff. 
 
 Dunnage. — Wood, &c. laid at the Bottom of a 
 Ship to keep the Cargo dry. 
 
 Barings. — Small Ropes to make fast the upper 
 Corners of square Sails, &c. 
 
 Ease off. — To slacken. 
 
 End for End. — To let a Rope or Cable run quite 
 out. 
 
 End on. — When a Ship's Bows and Head Sails 
 kre only seen. 
 
 Fag End. — The end of a Rope which is un- 
 twisted. 
 
 Fake. — One Circle of a Coil of Rope. 
 
236 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Falling off. — When a Ship moves from the AVind 
 further than she ought. 
 
 Fid. — A tapered piece of Wood or Iron to splice 
 Ropes with. Also a piece of Wood which supports 
 one Mast upon the Tressle-trees of another. 
 
 To Jill. — To brace the Yards so that the wind may- 
 strike the Sails on their after Surfaces. 
 
 Flukes. — The broad Parts or Palms of the An- 
 chors. 
 
 Fore. — That part of the Ship nearest to the Head. 
 
 Fore and Aft. — The length- way of the Ship, or 
 in the direction of the Keel. 
 
 Fore Castle. — A short Deck in the fore part of the 
 Ship. 
 
 Forging a-head. — Forced a-head by the Wind. 
 
 Foul Hawse. — When the Cables are twisted. 
 
 To Founder. — To sink. 
 
 Full and hy. — See close-hauled. 
 
 Furling. — Making fast the Sails to the Yards by 
 the Gaskets. 
 
 Gaff. — A Spar or Yard to which the Mizen of a 
 Ship or the Mainsail of a Brig or Cutter is bent. 
 
 Gang-way. — A Platform reaching from the>Cluar- 
 ter Deck to the Fore-castle on each side. Also the 
 place where persons enter the Ship. 
 
 Gasket. — A piece of Plait to fasten the Sails to the 
 Yard, 
 
237 
 
 Girt. — A Ship is girted when her Cables are too 
 tight, which prevents her swinging. 
 
 Goose J\eck. — An iron Hook at the end of a Boom. 
 
 Goose Wings. — The outer extremities of a Main 
 or Foresail when loose, the rest of it being furled. 
 
 Goring. — Cutting a Sail obliquely. 
 
 Gripe. — A piece of Timber which joins the Keel 
 and the Cutwater. 
 
 Griping. — When a ship carries her Helm much 
 to windward. 
 
 Gunnel.— The upper part of a Ship's side. 
 
 Guy.— A. rope to steady a Boom, (fcc. 
 
 Gybing. '--When (by the Wind being large) it is 
 necessary to shift the Boom of a fore and aft Sail. 
 
 Halliards.— TdiCkles or Ropes to hoist up the Sails. 
 
 To Hand.— The same as to furl. 
 
 Hatch-way.— A square Hole in the Deck, which 
 communicates with the Hold or another Deck. 
 
 To Haul. --To Pull. 
 
 To Hail.— To call out to another Ship. 
 
 A Clear Hawse.— When the Cables are not twisted. 
 
 A Foul HaiOse.—When the Cables lie across, or are 
 twisted. 
 
 Haivse Holes.— The Holes through which the Ca- 
 bles pass. 
 
 Hawser.— A small Cable. 
 
 To Heel.— To incline to one side. 
 
238 KEDQE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 The Helm."- A wooden Bar put through the Head 
 of a Rudder — also called a Tiller. 
 
 To Hitch.'-Ho make fast. 
 
 The Hold. — The lower apartment of a Ship where 
 the provisions and goods are stowed. 
 
 To Haul Home. — To pull the Clew of a Sail, <fec. 
 as far as it will go. 
 
 Horse. — A Rope made fast to the Yard, on which 
 the Men stand. 
 
 Hull—ThQ body of a Ship. 
 
 Jeioel Blocks. — Blocks at the Topsail Yard Arms, 
 for the Topmast Studding Sail Halliards. 
 
 Jigger. — A purchase used in Merchant Ships to 
 hold on the Cable. 
 
 Junk. — Pieces of old Cable, out of which Mats, 
 Gaskets, (fee. are made. 
 
 Jury Masts. — Temporary Masts, stepped when the 
 others are carried or shot away. 
 
 Keckling. — Old Rope passed round the Cable at 
 short distances. 
 
 Kink. — A twist or turn in a Rope. 
 
 To Labour. — To pitch and roll heavily. 
 
 Land-fall. — Discovering the Land. 
 
 Larboard. — The left Side. 
 
 Launch ho ! — To let go the top Rope when the 
 T(^mast is fidded. 
 
 Le&ward.—l^h.dii point towards which the Wind 
 blows. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 239 
 
 Lee-lurch. — When the Ship rolls to leeward. 
 
 Lee-ioay, — The lateral movement of a Ship to 
 leeward. 
 
 Lee Tide. — When the Wind and Tide are the 
 same Way. 
 
 Lizard. — A small piece of Rope with a Thimble, 
 spliced into a larger one. 
 
 Looming. — The appearance of a distant Object 
 such as a Ship, the Land, (fee. 
 
 Lubber. — A Sailor who does not know his duty. 
 
 Luff. — A direction to the Steer's-man to put the 
 Helm to leeward. 
 
 Luff Tackle. — A large Tackle, consisting of a 
 double and a single Block. 
 
 Lying to. — See to bring to. 
 
 To Man the Yards. — To send'' Men upon them. 
 
 Messenger. — A Rope attached to the Cable, to 
 heave up the Anchor by. 
 
 Mizen. — The aftermost Sail in a Ship. 
 
 To Moor. — To secure a Ship by more than one 
 Cable. - 
 
 Moorings. — The place where a Vessel is moored. 
 Also Anchors with Chains and Bridles laid in Rivers 
 for Men of War to ride by. 
 
 ^Neap Tides. — Those Tides which happen when 
 the Moon is in her (Quarters, and are not so high^as 
 the Spring Tides. 
 
240 
 
 Neaped, — A Ship is said to be neaped when she 
 is left on Shore by these Tides, and must wait for 
 the next Spring Tides. 
 
 To Near the Land. — To approach the Shore. 
 
 No Near. — A direction to the Hehn's-man to put 
 the Hehn a little a- weather, to keep the Sails full. 
 To let her come no nearer to the Wind. 
 
 Nippers. — Plaiting or Selvages to bind the Cable 
 to the Messenger. 
 
 Off and On. — Coming near the Land on one Tack, 
 and leaving it on the other. 
 
 Offing. — Out to Sea — from the Land. 
 
 Orlop Deck. — The lowest Deck in the Ship, lying 
 on the beams of the Hold. The place vvhere the 
 Cables are coiled^, and where other Stores are kept. 
 
 Overboard. — Out of the Ship. 
 
 Overhauling. — ^To haul a fall of Rope through a 
 Block till it is slack. Also examining a Ship, (fcc. 
 
 Painter. — A Rope by which a Boat is made fast. 
 
 To Pass. — To hand anything from one to another ; 
 or to place a Rope or Lashing round a Yard, (fee. 
 
 To pay. — To rub Tar, Pitch, (fee. on any thing, 
 with a Brush. 
 
 To pay off. — To make a Ship's Head recede from 
 the Wind by backing the Head Sails, (fee. 
 * 4ro peak up. — To raise the after end of a Gaff. 
 
 Plying. — Turning to windward. 
 
 
241 
 
 Pooping, — A Ship is said to be pooped, when she 
 is struck by a heavy Sea, on the Stern or (Quarter. 
 
 Port. — To the left side. This term is used to the 
 Helm's-man to put the Helm to the left, instead of 
 the word " larboard,^^ — to make a distinction from 
 the affinity of sound in the word starboard. 
 
 Preventer. — Any thing for temporary security; 
 as. a Preventer Brace, &c. 
 
 Quarter. — That part of a Ship's side between the 
 Main Chains and the Stern. 
 
 Racking a Fall. — Seizing the parts of ^ Tackle- 
 fall together by cross turns. 
 
 Rake. — ^The projection of a Ship at the Stem and 
 Stern, beyond the extent of the Keel — also the incli- 
 nation of a Ship's Masts either forward or aft from a 
 perpendicular Line. 
 
 Range of Cable. — A sufficient length hauled up, 
 to permit the Anchor to drop to the bottom. 
 
 To rattle down the Shrouds. — To fix the Rat- 
 lings on them. 
 
 To reef. — To reduce a Sail, by tying it round 
 the Yard with points. 
 
 To reeve. — To put a Rope through a Block, &c. 
 
 To ride.--To be held by the Cable. To " ride 
 
 easy," is when a Ship does not labour much. To 
 
 " ride hard," is when the Ship pitches with violence. 
 
 To rig. — To fit the Rigging to the Masts. 
 
 To right. — A Ship is said to right when she ris- 
 21 
 
242 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 es to her upright position, after being laid down by 
 a violent squall. 
 
 To right the Helm. — To put it a-midships, or in 
 its fore and aft position, parallel to the Keel. 
 
 To round in. — To haul in a Brace, <fcc. which is 
 not very tight. 
 
 To rouse in. — To haul in the slack part of the 
 Cable. 
 
 To run down. — When one Ship sinks another by 
 running over her. 
 
 To scud. — To sail before the Wind in a storm. 
 
 To scuttle a ship. — To make holes in her bottom 
 to sink her. 
 
 To serve. — To wind any thing round a Cable or 
 aope, to prevent its being chafed. 
 
 To seize. — To make fast or bind. 
 
 To sheer. — To go in and out, and not in a direct 
 course. 
 
 To ship. — To put any thing on board. — To " ship 
 a >S'ea," when the Sea breaks into the Ship. 
 
 To shiver. — To make the Sails shake. 
 
 The Slack of a Rope, ^c— That part which 
 hangs loose. 
 ' To slip a Cable.— To let it run out to the end. 
 
 To slue. — To turn any thing about. 
 
 To sound. — To find the bottom by a leaden Plum- 
 met. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 243 
 
 To take a Spell. — To be in turn on duty at the 
 Lead, the Pump, <fec. 
 
 To spill. — To take the Wind out of the Sails by 
 the Braces, &c. in order to reef or hand them. 
 
 To splice. — To join two ropes together, by uniting 
 the Strands. 
 
 Spoondrift. — A continued flying of the Spray 
 and Waves over the Surface of the Sea. 
 
 To spring a Mast.— -To crack or spUt it. 
 
 A Spring. — A Rope made fast to the Cable at the 
 Bow, and taken in abaft, in order to expose the 
 Ship's side to any direction. 
 
 Spring Tides.— The highest Tides at the Full 
 and Change of the Moon. 
 
 To stand on. — To keep in the Course. 
 
 To stand hy. — To be ready. 
 
 Starboard. — The right side. 
 
 To steer. — To manage a Ship by the movement 
 of the Helm. 
 
 To stopper the Cable. — To keep it from running 
 out, by fastening short Ropes to it, called Stoppers. 
 
 Strand. — One of the Divisions of a Rope. 
 
 Stranded. — When one of the Divisions is broken^ 
 Also when a Ship is run on Shore so that she cannot* 
 be got off, she is said to be Stranded. 
 
 To Stretch. — To stand on different Tacks under 
 a press of Sail. 
 
 To Strike. — To beat against tho bottom. Also to 
 
244 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 lower the Flag in token of submission. Lowering 
 the Topmasts is commonly termed striking them. 
 
 To surge the Messenger. — To slack it suddenly. 
 
 To sioay. — To hoist up the Yards and Topmasts. 
 
 To swing. — To turn a Ship from one side of her 
 Anchor to the other, at the change of the Tide. 
 
 To tack. — To turn a Ship by the Sails and Rud- 
 der against the wind. 
 
 Taught. — A corruption of Tight. 
 
 Taunt. — Long, Lofty. 
 
 Tending. — The movement of a Vessel in swing- 
 ing at Anchor. 
 
 Tier, — The place where Cables are coiled. 
 
 Traverse, — To sail on different Courses. When 
 a rope runs freely through a Thimble, ifcc. it is said 
 to traverse. 
 
 Trying. — Laying to in a Gale of Wind under 
 a small Sail. 
 
 Turning to Windward. — Tacking. " 
 
 Twice-laid Stuff. — Rope made from the Yarns of 
 a Cable, &c. which has been half worn. 
 
 To veer and haul. — To pull a Rope and then 
 slacken it. 
 
 To unbend. — To cast loose. 
 To unmoor. — To reduce a Ship to a single An- 
 chor, after riding by two. 
 
 To unreeve. — To pull a Rope out of a Block. 
 To unrig. — To deprive a Ship of her Rigging. 
 
245 
 
 To unship. — To take any thing from the place in 
 which it was fixed. 
 
 Waist of a Ship. — The part between the Main 
 and Fore Drifts — also a term sometimes used for the 
 spare or waste Anchor, from its being stowed near 
 the Fore Drift, or Fore Part of the Waist. 
 
 Wake.— The Track left by the Ship on the Wa- 
 ter which she has passed over. 
 
 Wales. — See Bends. 
 
 To loare. — To turn a Ship round from the Wind. 
 
 T'o vmrp. — To move a Ship by Hawsers, <fec. 
 
 Watch, — A division of the Ship's company who 
 keep the Deck for a certain time. One is called star- 
 hoards and the other the larboard Watch. 
 
 Water-logged. — The state of a leaky Ship when 
 she is so full of Water as to be heavy and unman- 
 ageable. 
 
 Way of a Ship. — Her progress through the Wa- 
 ter. 
 
 To weather a Ship. — To get to windward of her. 
 
 A weather Tide. — A Tide or Stream which runs 
 to windward. 
 
 Weather-beaten. — Any thing worn or damaged 
 ^y bad weather. 
 
 To toeigh. — To heave the Anchor out of the 
 Ground. 
 
 To lohip. — To bind the end of a Rope with Yarn, 
 
 21* 
 
246 KEDGE ANCHOR, OH 
 
 to prevent its untwisting — also to hoist any thingTjy 
 a Rope which is reeved through a single Block. 
 
 Wind's Eye. — That point from which the wind 
 blows in a direct Line. 
 
 Between Wind and Water. — That part of the 
 Ship's bottom which is just at the surface of the Wa- 
 ter, or what is called the Water Line. 
 
 To wind a Boat^ ^c. — To turn it round from its 
 original Position. 
 
 Wind-rode. — When the Ship is kept a-stern, &c. 
 of her Anchor solely by the Wind. 
 
 To Windward, — Towards that point from whence 
 the Wind blows. 
 
 To work to Windward. — To make a progress 
 against the Wind by Tacking. 
 
247 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 
 
 1. Boatsioain. 
 
 This officer ho!ds a station in the Ship of the 
 greatest possible utility. To all other inferior officers 
 a specified duty is assigned, but with the Boatswain it 
 is otherwise, and consequently his vigilance should 
 ever be on the alert, and his eyes should be every 
 where. He ought for example to be a thorough 
 seaman, and a good rigger, he should be active 
 of limb, quick of sight, and ready in the exercise 
 of his mental faculties, but all these qualifica- 
 tions will fall short of their due eflfect, unless he be 
 possessed of good temper and be of sober habits. Al- 
 though the Boatswain is to consider himself a day 
 officer, he should bear in mind, that at night he is 
 subject to the call of the Lieutenant of the Watch. 
 The Boatswain will be required to inspect every 
 morning the standing and running rigging, and re- 
 port their state to the Officer of the Watch. Should 
 repairs be needed, or new rope required, he is to in- 
 form the first Lieutenant immediately afterwards. 
 
248 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 2. Squaring Yards. [Hints.) 
 
 Simple as may seem the process of Squaring Yards, 
 it is nevertheless a piece of duty, which requires a 
 considerable degree of precision. And this preci- 
 sion can never be obtained, without a knowledge 
 of the principle upon which the yards should be 
 s quared. 
 
 A Boatswain, ignorant of this principle, will gene- 
 rally proceed thus ; he first BowSes taut the lower 
 Trusses, squares the yards by the Braces, and quite re- 
 gardless of the distance of the Topsail Yards from their 
 respective Caps, or looking to see if the yards are amid- 
 ships, directs the Chief Boatswain's Mates to take his 
 station on the Jib Boom end, whilst he himself pro- 
 ceeds in the Boat ahead of the ship, to square the 
 Yards by the Lifts. Should the foreyard be required 
 to be topped to Starboard, the Boatswain will top 
 away upon that yard Arm, until by chance he disco- 
 ~ vers he has topped it too high ; to remedy this eye- 
 sore, he then sings out " Foreyard to Port," and Tops 
 until he raises the Larboard Yard Arm as high as 
 the Starboard. Producing by this a system of top- 
 ping and never settling a most unsightly bow in the 
 yard. He then squares the Foretopsail yard, by the 
 towed foreyard, and of course treats the fore Topsail 
 yarji to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the 
 Main yard in hand, which though probably square by 
 
249 
 
 the Lifts, can no longer look so in his eye, because 
 the yard arms are not made to cock up like those of 
 the foreyard. " Main Yard to Starboard," he sings 
 out with an audible voice, the Lift is topped several 
 feet to Starboard, and then to Port, until the yard 
 assumes the desired Cock the Boatswain has in his 
 eye. In squaring the Loftier yards by the Lifts, 
 Boatswains seldom take the precaution of placing 
 hands to attend the Top Gallant Braces. It should 
 be remembered, that the topping of the Lifts, alter 
 and disturb the square position of the yards by the 
 Braces, — these may appear minute matters, but un- 
 less they be strictly observed, yards never can be pro- 
 perly squared. 
 
 Hints. Before squaring yards the Boatswain is re- 
 commended to see that the Masts and particularly 
 the lofty spars are upright and all in one. It fre- 
 quently happens that after the Boatswain has squared 
 all the yards fore and aft, he detects an awkward 
 inclination in one of the Top Gallant Masts ; he 
 nevertheless returns on board, and reports to the 
 senior Lieutenant, yards squared and ropes taut, but 
 afterwards desires the Captain of the Top to get"" 
 a pull of the Starboard or Larboard Top Gallant 
 Breast Back stay, forgetting that this very pull affects 
 the Top Gallant Lifts, and consequently alters the 
 position of the yards. The first thing after the masts 
 are all in one, or upright as you choose to term it, is 
 
250 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 to get your yards exactly amidships by your Rolling 
 Tackles, and then get them snugly trussed to the 
 mast and square them by the braces. 
 
 Note. All yards above the Lower yards, ought to 
 be the depth of the cap, above the cap, before you at- 
 tempt to square it by either Lifts, or Braces. Wlien 
 squaring yards you ought to be very particular not 
 to bow your yards up, nor yet to let the yard arms 
 droop down, but be very particular that your yards 
 lay perfectly parallel, for it looks bad to see a ship's 
 yards bow up, and it looks still worse, to see them 
 droop down. In squaring your Top Gallant yards, 
 you ought to be very particular in attending the braces, 
 when you are topping on your Top Gallant Lifts. 
 When you top on either of your Lifts, you ought to 
 slack the brace at the same time, and let a careful 
 hand look out for the yard, to see that it is square by 
 the braces. It not unfrequently happens that after 
 the Boatswain makes his report to the Senior Lieu- 
 tenant or the officer of the watch, that " Everything 
 is well and in order aloft," Shirts, Trowsers, and of- 
 ten scrubbed Hammocks, are seen from other ships, 
 suspended before the heel of the Topmast, or in po- 
 sitions purposely sought, to avoid the eye of the Of- 
 ficer of the deck, or first Lieutenant. 
 
 \ 
 
251 
 3. Turning the Hands up. {Hints.) 
 
 In turning the Hands up or calling the Crew to 
 the performance of their duties, the Boatswain tooof< 
 ten indulges in piercing pipes, and drawling tones of 
 superfluous length. Boatswains have a singular 
 propensity to demonstrate the soundness of their 
 lungs, by an endless protraction of a note on their 
 piercing pipes — they should not be so fond of supply- 
 ing the deficiency of Sea birds. 
 
 This is not the worst feature in their taste, for 
 when at last they utter the required summons, they 
 give it forth in tones so drawling, that the first words 
 are often forgotten before the last words are out. 
 
 Note. A-l-l H-a-nd-s a-b-ou-t JS-h-i-p. — 
 This lengthy summons, and a longer winded whistle, 
 and each pipe and phrase three times repeated by the 
 Boatswain and his mates, the ship may be ashore be- 
 fore the leader of the band is convinced how dearly 
 he has « Paid for the Whistle." 
 
 4. Inspections^ {Morn ing and Evenivg.) Hints. 
 
 In the morning the Boatswain will be required to 
 inspect as early as possible the state and condition of 
 the standing and running rigging, and to report the 
 result of his examination to the officer of the morn- 
 
252 
 
 ing watch. He should be particularly careful to see 
 that the Ratlines of the ris^ging are properly secure, 
 that the Topsail sheet service is not chafed, and that 
 all the quarter and Paunch Matts are properly 
 placed. 
 
 Evening. The Boatswain should inspect at even- 
 ing quarters all the Rigging Stoppers, and necessary 
 gear required upon the occasion of clearing for ac- 
 tion, so, that in the event of being surprised by an 
 enemy at night, such gear may be placed at hand for 
 immediate use — he should also see that the Tog- 
 gles, fitted to the lower and topsail Braces, be secure- 
 ly seized to their respective parts. 
 
 5. Inspection of Stoioed Anchors. {Hints.) 
 
 In boisterous weather and particularly if the ship 
 be labouring or lurching heavily, the Boatswain 
 should inspect the several Anchors, and see that they 
 be securely stowed. In small vessels whose Anchors 
 in a heavy sea are constantly buried under water it 
 is necessary to take the precaution of passing Pre- 
 venter Stocks and Shank lashings. The quarter boats 
 should be also inspected, and the Boatswain should 
 report to the officer of the watch the result of such 
 inspection. 
 
253 
 
 6. Setting vp the rigging at Sea. {Hints.) 
 
 Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds 
 at sea, the Topmast Shrouds should be all let gOj 
 this practice is recommended upon the presumption 
 that the Lower rigging will not be cast loose, or set 
 up on the occasion of a swell, or that the Ship be 
 rolling or pitching. It has been well observed that 
 by letting go two Topmast Shrouds at a time, an un- 
 even strain has been brought upon the futtock, which 
 prevents the Shrouds of the lower rigging being 
 equally drawn down. Upon all occasions of setting 
 up the Lower rigging at sea it is always advisable to 
 have ready prepared as many Luffs as possible, so 
 that two shrouds may be set up at a time, and that 
 there may be no delay in shifting the Tackles from 
 Shroud to Shroud. When the lower rigging is up, 
 the futtock plates should be beaten down to the top, 
 and the Shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles 
 ready hooked to their respective Laniards. The 
 method of employing the Spanish Windlass for the 
 purpose of setting up these Shrouds is not to be re- 
 commended. It occupies too much time and often 
 creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging 
 can be set up. In staying the Topmasts the Boat- 
 swain is not recommended to bouse too far forward 
 the heads of the mast, and he should recollect that 
 the Angle formed by the main Topmast stay with 
 
 22 
 
254 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 the Fore Top, is considerably greater than that of 
 the Foretop Mast with the Bowsprit, and consequent- 
 ly that the lever of the former is more powerful than 
 that of the latter. 
 
 7. Inspection of Boats'. {Hints.) 
 
 Every evening after sunset the Boatswain will be 
 required to inspect the Boats on the Booms, to see 
 that they be perfectly clear, and that their slings be 
 severally hooked in readiness for hoisting out. In 
 Tropical climates it is strongly recommended to un- 
 cover the boats after the sun has set, in order that 
 they may benefit by the dew and air. Each cover 
 should be made up and placed in the Bow of the 
 Boat. 
 
 8. Slacking the Jib Stay in had weather. {Hints.) 
 
 The Jib stay is always set up as taut as a harpstring, 
 consequently, when it comes on to blow, both the 
 spray of the sea, and the rain, tend to tauten it more, in. 
 pitching too it must assist to spring the Boom, work 
 the Bowsprit, and cause unnecessary strain upon the 
 rope itself. Whenever it blows so fresh that the Jib 
 
 «. ♦T :. • ' t , 
 
255 
 
 is not likely to be set, the Jib stay should be slacked. 
 If it be required subsequently to setting the sail, no- 
 thing can be easier than to set the stay up, while the 
 Jib is loosing, — bear this in mind. 
 
 9. Clearing for Action. {Hints.) 
 
 The Boatswain should see that the rigging stop- 
 pers should be placed on the Poop, Quarter deck 
 and Forecastle abreast of their respective shrouds, 
 that the Topsail sheets be severally stoppered, the 
 Top sail yards securely slung, and that preventer 
 Braces be attached to the Lower and Topsail yards.' 
 Should time permit of the precaution, the fore and 
 main runners, fore and main Tackles, and a proper 
 proportion of stout Stuffs should be lighted on the 
 Booms ready at hand, and whips ready rove to whip 
 the runners to their respective pendants ; the mast 
 head pendants should be previously lashed abaft the 
 mast head. For the purpose of, and on this occas- 
 ion, when every second of time that can be saved is 
 of the first moment, it is strongly recommended to fit 
 the runners with stout salvages and toggles. Com- 
 pared to lashing, the method of toggling the runnner 
 becomes a mere momentary operation. Some ships 
 previously to going into action, have lashed their run- 
 ners, taken them forward and set them up, and have 
 
256 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 also boused up their fore and main Tackles, on each 
 side, the propriety of this practice becomes a matter 
 of question, inasmuch as the runners and Tackles 
 are more likely to be shot away when aloft, than 
 when lying low, bighted along upon the Booms. 
 
 The Boom cover should also be taken off, and all 
 the minor Lashings of the Spare Spars cast off, for 
 it may be necessary, even in the middle of an action, 
 to have recourse to a spare Spar to lash up and 
 down the Lower mast. A coil of stretched rope and 
 a ball of Spun Yarn, should be sent aloft and placed 
 in each Top. 
 
 Note. It is said that Paul Jones, perceiving the 
 main mast of his ship totter, in a severely contested 
 action, whipt the spare Jib Boom up and down, 
 the Mast, converting it into a fish, and securing the 
 two spars together by means of long nippers passed 
 on the bight^ and hove taut by Handspikes, Spanish 
 Windlass fashion. 
 
 10. Caution in getting in the Bowsprit. {Hints,) 
 
 In getting in the Bowsprit, care must be taken 
 that the Main purchase be overhauled down abaft 
 the Bumpkins, for should the purchase fall be pass- 
 ed before and under the Bumpkin it would be im- 
 possible to lift the Bowsprit higher. The Spar 
 
257 
 
 must necessarily be lowered again into the water, the 
 purchase untoggled and shifted abaft the Bumpkin, 
 and in fact all the work must be done over again, 
 (bear this in mind.) 
 
 11. Stopping out Top Gallant Yard ropes, 
 {Hints.) 
 
 The practice of permitting the Topmen to stop the 
 Top Gallant Yard ropes out at their own conveni- 
 ence, and consequently at unstated periods, is at vari- 
 ance with that order and regularity which should 
 ever characterize the duties and discipline of a ves- 
 sel of war. 
 
 In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch 
 following the movements of the Senior Officers, di- 
 rects the Boatswain or his mates to pipe " Out yard 
 ropes," if tripping lines are tolerated the yard rope 
 and tripping line men should lie out together, by 
 pursuing this system, the yards will be kept square, 
 and will not (as is of constant occurrence) be seen for 
 an hour and a half before sunset topping in different 
 directions. The same rufe should be observed when 
 placing on whips for Hammock Girtlines, or Clothes 
 lines. 
 
 22* 
 
268 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 12. Preventer Braces. 
 
 It is desirable to establish a general rule that when 
 the Topsails are treble reefed, the Preventer Braces 
 are to be placed on the Yards, and that the relieving 
 tackles in the Gunroom be placed at hand ready for 
 use. 
 
 13. Reeving Running Rigging. 
 
 In reeving running rigging the Boatswain is not 
 recommended to cut and reeve, but on the contrary 
 to reeve and cut. However correct the " Rigging 
 List" may appear there will be always found a diflfer- 
 ence of a few fathoms in rope, and so it happens that 
 the difference invariably errs on the wrong side, the 
 allowance being said to be shorter than the measure- 
 ment, — per Rope. 
 
 Note. It were much to be desired that the run- 
 ning rigging, previously to reeving, should be stretch- 
 ed at the Capstan. The old practice of taking the 
 end through the Coil, will in some measure relieve 
 the rope of many of its kinks, but taking the mere 
 turns out of a rope is not sufficient to facilitate its run 
 through the block. Such ropes as Topsail Sheets, 
 Top Gallant Sheets, after Braces, and Jib and Stay- 
 sail Haliards should be all stretched before they are 
 
rov^ in their respective Blocks. Moreover, if there 
 be any time more than another, that a vessel will re- 
 quire her ropes to run freely, it is upon t&e occasion 
 of her first leaving port, with a green and undisci- 
 plined crew. 
 
 14. Topsail Tyes. 
 
 Topsail Tyes are now rove in some ships suffici- 
 ently long to send the Yards down with, and when 
 not wanted for that purpose, the surplus ends per- 
 taining to the standing parts secured to the Mast 
 head. In some ships a strop and thimble are fitted 
 under the rigging, or a score cut in the heel of the Top- 
 gallant mast, for the purpose of reeving through the 
 standing parts of the Tye, which is secured Breech- 
 ing fashion by two strong seizings, and then stopped 
 down the Topmast rigging. In shifting yards this 
 method will be found to save much time and trouble. 
 The surplus end will also answer to shng the Top- 
 sail yard with, when going into action. 
 
 15. Blacking the Rigging. {Hints.) 
 
 In blacking the rigging the first precaution that 
 should be taken by the Boatswain is to cover with 
 
260 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 old Canvass or Hammocks the lower Mast Heads, 
 and particularly the Caps. The Blacking should be 
 put on hot. 
 
 Thin Tar with a certain portion of Lamblack, hot 
 Salt water, whiskey and a little Litharge mixed toge- 
 ther, make an admirable mixture for blacking the 
 rigging. It is not recommended to blacken the Roy- 
 al and Top Gallant rigging aloft — this rigging may 
 be previously blackened and triced up to dry. 
 
 tl^ See composition for Blacking. 
 
 10. Top Gallant Mast Hopes. 
 
 For expedition, the Mast rope rove upon the bight, 
 with lizards taken through the Royal sheave must 
 be preferred to the old manner of Adding Masts by 
 the double operation of two Mast ropes — namely, the 
 long and the short. If delay is desired ; or in other 
 words people prefer going the longest way to work, 
 the short mast rope must be put in requisition. The 
 mast rope, however, rove upon the bight with lizards, 
 is better calculated for harbour practice than for sea 
 service. The Mast rope which is here recommended 
 as applicable to every purpose may be fitted as fol- 
 lows. The Rope is rove as usual, stopped to the Top 
 Gallant mast head and Royal sheave hole, leaving a 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 261 
 
 long end over the upper stop to hitch to the Bolt in the 
 Cap before cutting the stops. To prevent the ropes 
 from slipping, rack both parts together above the 
 sheave hole in the heel of the mast. 
 
 17. Fore and Main Buntlines. 
 
 The Buntlines of the Courses are frequently found 
 to jamb aloft, and when rove on the bight and led 
 forward constantly to become Cable laid. Buntlines 
 will be found to lead fairer and to haul the sails 
 higher up by fitting them after the following method. 
 In the fore part of the Top between the Trusseltrees 
 cut two holes, into these holes insert leaden pipes 
 backstay fall fashion. Hook to the foremost Bolt on 
 each side of the Lower Cap a block through which 
 each Buntline leg is to be rove, take each through 
 the holes cut in the Top, and pass them down before 
 all, and toggle them to the foot of the sail, the hauling 
 part to be led aft through the Lubber's hole, and a 
 block turned in at a proper distance to allow the after 
 leg to act the part of a pendant. Through this block 
 a whip purchase is rove, by this method the Bunt- 
 lines will be always kept clear, and they will be found 
 upon letting go the whips, to overhaul themselves. 
 In Port, when the ship is moored, the Buntline blocks 
 with the ropes rove may be unhooked from the Bolts 
 
^62 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 in the Cap and placed in the Top immediately over 
 the holes, through which the foremost legs are rove in. 
 
 18. Futtock Shrouds. 
 
 In all vessels of war the Futtock Shrouds are too 
 long. Ships whose lower yards are slung high and 
 brace sharply up have their futtock shrouds conside- 
 rably shorter than the established length. 
 
 19. Tops and half Tops. 
 
 Many Seamen affect to disapprove of half Tops, 
 asserting that two halves can never be so well secur- 
 ed as one whole, this is mere prejudice, for practical 
 purposes a half top must be always preferred. 
 
 20. Striking Topmasts. 
 
 The absence of forethought, or a little practical 
 precaution on the part of the Boatswain and Petty 
 Officers, is sometimes the cause of this operation be- 
 ing one of no little labour, when the hands are turned 
 up to strike Topmasts, the Laniards of the after 
 
263 
 
 Backstays and Topmast rigg-ing should be severally- 
 slacked, whilst the Jib Stay, fore topmast staysail 
 Haliards, Topsail haliards. Topsail Lifts, Reef Tac- 
 kles and Top Gallant sheets ought to be well over- 
 hauled, steady hands should also be placed to attend 
 the spring and standing stays. 
 
 When blowing hard head to wind, Topmasts con- 
 stantly bend in the cap, from the circumstance of 
 letting go and overhauling too much of the stays. 
 
 Should there be any unusual strain on the Top 
 tackle pendants, it were well to " stand fast" the falls 
 for a few seconds, in order that the people aloft may 
 examine the vicinity of the Trussletrees, for the most 
 minute rope jambed between the Trussletrees and 
 the Mast, may produce sufficient strain to carry away 
 the Top Tackle falls if not the pendants. This pre- 
 caution is more particularly directed during periods 
 of striking Topmasts in the dark. When the Masts 
 are struck they should be kept on the right slew, and 
 their heels securely lashed, in the event of the Ship 
 parting, or it becomes necessary to set close reefed 
 Topsails with the Mast down. The practice of 
 Sheep shanking Backstays is not recommended, the 
 Backstays may be set up through the medium of 
 good Lufl Tackles, and by such means the mast may 
 be rendered sufficiently secure to support the strain 
 of a close reefed Topsail. 
 
264 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 21. Stoaying up Topmast. 
 
 In performing this heavy operation every care 
 should be taken to overhaul well, and to see that 
 such of the standing and running rigging are per- 
 fectly' clear which are calculated to impede the as- 
 cent of the masts. The Topsail Lifts, Topsail Tyes, 
 Reef Tackles, Jib and Staysail Halyards should be 
 well overhauled below and aloft, and the Laniards of 
 the Topmast rigging and Backstays be got ready for 
 setting up, the moment the mast is fidded and stayed. 
 The Forecastle men forward should have Luffs lead 
 along the Bowsprit, and Tackles up and down the 
 Foremast, ready for staying the Fore and Main Top- 
 masts. No Topmasts should be fidded by a single 
 Top tackle pendant. It is true that small vessels are 
 not allowed a second Pendant, but such ships should 
 reeve a hawser through the Dead sheave for the pur- 
 pose of acting the part of a preventer in the event of 
 the Top Tackle fall patting. The same precaution 
 should be taken with respect to the position of the 
 Cross Trees over head as has been already mention- 
 ed under the head of rigging Topmasts. 
 
 Note. Such Ships should be prepared with stop- 
 pers, with two tails and a Toggle, so as to clap on 
 the Top Tackle Pendants about a foot abaft and un- 
 der the Top Block hooked to the Cap. Topmasts 
 ascend comparatively easy until the Fid hole becomes 
 
265 
 
 within six inches of the Trusseltrees, then a heavy- 
 strain is brought upon the Pendants and particularly 
 upon the falls. 
 
 22. Unmooring. 
 
 It frequently occurs in unmooring vessels of War 
 that the veering cable is not sufficiently veered. In 
 weighing the first Anchor a considerable strain has 
 been felt at the Capstan in consequence of the ship 
 not being permitted to bring the Cable up and down. 
 It is recommended to veer 3 or 4 fathoms after the 
 Cable is said to be up and down, this can do no 
 harm, it will put the whole strain of the Ship on the 
 Anchor, that is, weighing, and thereby facilitate trip- 
 ping it. 
 
 23. Reef Lines to the Topsails. 
 
 Few ships in .the service are fitted witli these Lines. 
 In some ships they are attached. In reefing Top- 
 sails when blowing fresh and particularly when 
 steering a course, or going large. Reef lines assist ma- 
 terially to spill the sail, and enable the men on the 
 yards to get hold of the points, which are difficult to 
 reach when the Canvass is bellying to the breeze. 
 
 Reef lines are thus fitted. Take^ a piece of small 
 
 rope, splice one end into an eyelet hole into the head 
 
 23 
 
266 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 of the sail, ^eize it around the neck of one of the first 
 reef Points, on the foreside of the sail in a straight 
 line with the eyelet hole, leaving enough slack to pre- 
 vent the sail girting, then seize it under to the sec- 
 ond, then the third reef, splice an eye in the end, and 
 seize it to the neck of a close reef point. In large 
 ships there should be thrse reef lines, on each yard 
 arm, in small vessels Iwo will be sufficient. 
 
 24. Reefing Courses. 
 
 To execute this service with security as well as 
 celerity, the reef earings should*be formed of rope 
 sufficiently strong to bear being boused out by the 
 Boom Jiggers, by this method the inner turns of 
 small rope may be passed with facility. 
 
 The outer Earing should be led through a block 
 or cheek fitted for the purpose, this earing it must be 
 remembered, is not to be considered as a substitute 
 for the reef pendant, it should also be hooked and 
 hauled out by a separate Tackle. It is the general 
 cutom now, to fit all reef earings on the bight, and 
 pass on both ends. 
 
 25. Top Gallant Masts struck. 
 When Top Gallant masts are struck, care ^should 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 267 
 
 be taken that a small mat be placed between the 
 Topmast and the heel of the Top Gallant masts, 
 proper heel lashings should also be fitted for the pur- 
 pose of securing the latter. 
 
 26. Keeping a clear Anchor. 
 
 That part of seamanship which relates to the me- 
 thod of tending a ship to the tide, or in other words, 
 of keeping the Cable clear of the Anchor may not be 
 inaptly termed the blind branch, of the mariner's art, 
 the Buoy floating on the surface being the only pos- 
 sible guide that the seaman possesses, to point to the 
 position of the Anchor hidden under water. 
 
 From being little understood, and by young ofii- 
 eers it is seldom put in practice, the art of keeping a 
 clear anchor, is by many considered a difficult task, 
 but, were Lieutenants to give more attention to the 
 matter, and to place less dependence on the Master or 
 Pilot, they would soon attain every necessary know- 
 ledge to meet the most difficult tide case. 
 
 27. Anchor turning in the Ground. 
 
 In order to ensure the certainty of the Anchor 
 turning in the ground with the tending or swinging 
 
268 
 
 OR 
 
 of the ship, it is recommended (whenever it is possi- 
 ble) to resort to this practice : To shoot the ship on 
 the same side of her Anchor at each change of tide, 
 for if the Anchor should not turn in the ground, the 
 Cable will get foul, either about the stock or the up- 
 per fluke, and trip it out of the ground. — Remember 
 this. 
 
 28. To tend to a weather Tide. 
 
 Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single 
 anchor upon a Lee tide, with the wind in same di- 
 rection of the tide, and that it be required upon the 
 tide setting to windward to tend the Ship clear of 
 the Anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship be- 
 gins to feel the turn of the weather tide, and that 
 the vessel brings the wind broad on the weather bow, 
 the head sails should be hoisted and the Lee sheets 
 hauled aft, in order to shoot the sliipfrom her Anchor 
 on a taut Cable, the Helm must be put A Lee, and 
 kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over 
 to windward of her Cable, and the Buoy appearing 
 on the same side with the Helm. If from light 
 winds the Buoy bears nearly: abeam, her head sails 
 may be hauled down, but if the breeze be strong and 
 it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly end 
 on with that of the Cable, bringing the Buoy on her 
 quarter, it will be necessary to keep the Fore top* 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 269 
 
 mast Staysail set in order to check the vessel should 
 she be disposed to break her shear against the action 
 of her helm, or be inclined to drop to windward, and 
 "go over" her anchor in a broadside or lateral di- 
 rection. 
 
 29. A Man Overboard. 
 
 If the Ship be going free, and particularly if fast 
 through the water, it is recommended to bring too 
 with the head-yards aback, for it is obvious that if 
 the Main yard be left square, the Ship will be longer 
 coming too, will shoot farther, increase the distance 
 from the man, and add materially to the delay of suc- 
 cour. It will however require judgment, especially 
 if blowing fresh, to be careful and right the Helm in 
 time, or the Ship will fly too, too much, gain stern- 
 way, and risk the boat in lowering down. 
 
 The best authority recommends, that if possible, the 
 Ship should not only be hove aback when a man 
 falls overboard, but she ought to be brought round on 
 the other tack, of course sail ought to be shortened 
 in Stays, and the Main yard kept square. This plan 
 implies the ship being on a wind, or from the posi- 
 tion of having the wind not above two points abaft 
 the Beam. The great merit of such a method of pro- 
 ceeding is that if the evolution succeeds, the Ship 
 
 23* 
 
270 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 when round will drift down towards the man, and 
 although there may be some small risk in lowering 
 the Boat in stays from the ship, having at one period 
 Sternway, there will in fact be little time lost, if the 
 boat be not lowered until the Ship be well round, 
 and the sternway at an end. There is more mischief 
 done generally by lowering the boat too soon than 
 by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing 
 it coolly. And it cannot be too often repeated, that 
 almost the whole depends upon the self-possession of 
 the Ofiicer of the Deck. 
 
 30. Hailing Aloft. 
 
 Hailing Aloft in well regulated Ships is much re- 
 pressed by the Boatswain, for bluster is a general in- 
 dication of but little work or the truth of the adage, 
 '• All noise and no work." 
 
 31. Jih Stay and Haliards. 
 
 For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with 
 the Cheek Blocks which are usually fitted to the fore 
 Top Mast head for the purpose of reeving the above 
 two ropes, together with the fore Topmast staysail 
 Haliards. In the first place, if the foretopmast be 
 
271 
 
 sprung or carried away in chase^ and that it be re- 
 quired to shift the mast with all possible speed, con- 
 siderable time is taken up in removing and replacing 
 cheek blocks at the Mast head. But independently 
 of these reasons, the Stay and Haliards should be 
 rove under the Mast head, if only to keep them clear 
 of the foot of the Topgallant Sail. 
 
 NoTt.'. In some ships, the Jib and Fore Topmast 
 Staysail Haliards are rove through ginns fitted for 
 the purpose. Ginns are however not supplied in all 
 ships, but you can always fit fiddle blocks under the 
 eyes of your rigging, your Jib and Staysail Haliards 
 reeve in the upper sheave, and the Topsail Buntlines 
 in the lower ones. 
 
 32. Proportions for Cables. 
 
 The Sheet and Bower Cable 1 inch in circumfer- 
 ence for every 2 feet of beam. The Stream Cable 
 and Messenger f of the Sheet or Bower, Chain Ca- 
 bles are frequently used for Bowers, an allowance is 
 made of ^ of an inch for the diameter of the wire of 
 the Links, for every inch of circumference of the 
 Hemp Cables, the same rule applies in all cases where 
 Iron rigging is substituted for Hemp. 
 
 Note. Cable yarns are spun f longer than the 
 Cable for which they are intended. The yarns for 
 
272 KEDQE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 120 fathoms of Cable must be 200 fat'noms long, for 
 a shroud laid rope the yarns are i longer, i. e. 90 for 
 60 fathoms. 
 
 33. Proportions for Anchors. 
 
 For the Sheet and Bower Anchors, take f the 
 number of feet which the ship draws with all her 
 stores, &c., on board, and add it to the breadth of 
 beam, and allow one cwt. for every foot. 
 
 The stream Anchor f of the Sheet or Bower. 
 
 For ships smaller than Frigates an allowance of 
 600 cwt. every 100 Tons burden should be made 
 ibr Sheet and Bower Anchors. 
 
 In Stocking an Anchor, add together the length of 
 the Shank and half the length of the ring, for the 
 length of the stock. 
 
 The stock is as many inches in thickness in the 
 middle as the shank is long in feet, and is tapered to 
 half that size at the end. 
 
 In puddening an Anchor ring, cut the length 3 
 times the diameter of the Ring. 
 
 i 
 
 34. What length is necessary to form a Clinch. 
 In bending Cables, the length of rope necessary 
 
273 
 
 to form a Clinch is equal to^the length of the Shank 
 of the Anchor. 
 
 35. To sj^lice an old Cable to a new one. 
 
 Take the old one to a rope walk, unlay the strands, 
 and splice them to the strands of the new one with 
 long splices, after which lay up the latter. It can be 
 done in another way, but it requires a good and neat 
 marlinespike sailor to do it. 
 
 36. To send 2qj Top Gallant Yards. 
 
 Call all hands up Top Gallant Yards, reeve the 
 yard rope through the Jack block, which send aloft 
 and hook to the Top Gallant Tye. Man the Top 
 Gallant Haliards and trice up the Jack Block, Man 
 the yard rope, sway out of the chains, when the yards 
 are steady aloft, men in the Tops and on the Topsail 
 yards, bear the Top Gallant yards clear, the Lower 
 Lift is then overhauled down, and when the upper 
 yard arm is above the Topmast Crosstrees, " Avast 
 Swaying," while the men in the Crosstrees slip off 
 the Grummets, and put on the upper Lifts and Braces, 
 while hands in the Topmast rigging, rig the lower 
 yard arm, man the Lower lifts and braces, sway 
 
274 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 higher and when the slings come above the Top- 
 mast Cap, take a turn with the parrel lashing, at- 
 tend the yards and sway across, slacking the upper 
 lifts, and bousing upon the lower one, parrel the yard 
 and square it by the lAfts and Braces, let go the 
 Top Gallant Haliards, trice down the Jack Block, 
 hook the Tye, send the yard^ope in the Top, bend 
 the sheets and Clewlines, bowlines and buntlines, 
 send aloft Royal Studding Sail booms and reeve the 
 gear. 
 
 Note. Royal yards are sent aloft in the same 
 manner, except that they have no Jack Blocks, the 
 yard rope reeves through the sheave in the Royal 
 Mast Head. (Note. Jack blocks are not used at all 
 now-a-days in the heaviest of ships for Top Gallant 
 yards.) 
 
 37. To keep the Hawser clear loheii moored. 
 
 When, it is nearly slack water, cant her with the 
 Helm the right way, and if necessary, make use of 
 Jib Spanker and yards. 
 
 38. To tend to Windioard Single Anchor. 
 When the tide slacks, sheer her with the Helm, 
 
275 
 
 run up the Jib and Foretopmast Staysail, with weath- 
 er sheets aft, when canted the right way the lee 
 sheets may be hauled aft and the yards filled, thus 
 setting her abreast to a taut Cable. When the Buoy 
 is on the Lee quarter, brace the head yards to the 
 wind, and fill the after ones, when the tide swings 
 her head around, so as to shake the sails, furl and 
 stow them. 
 
 39. To tend to Leeioard. 
 
 As the tide slackens sheer her to the same side of 
 the Buoy on which she came to windward, and fill 
 the yards, which will set her end on, over the Cable, 
 she will now by the effect of the wind, bring her stem 
 over the Cable, and bring the Buoy on her. weather 
 quarter, put the Helm " a weather," and she will 
 shoot ahead, tautening the Cable by shearing her 
 head from the wind. When the wind gets a little 
 aft the beam hoist the Jib to prevent the Cable from 
 drawing her head to wind. Let her lay in this 
 position until she falls off. When the head sails 
 shake, haul down and stow them. 
 
 40. To back the ship. 
 As the tide slacks, shear her to windward, sheet 
 
 d^ 
 
276 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 home and set the mizen Topsail, thus she will 
 back round to leeward, as soon as the tide sets up, 
 clew up and furl the mizen Topsail. 
 
 41. To break the Shear, 
 
 When tending to the tide, and the ship comes 
 over her Anchor, she may break her shear by cant- 
 ing her stern the wrong way, when this is the case, 
 put the helm a-weather, run the Jib up, fill the Head 
 yards and the after yards, kept too. Every thing is 
 now arranged to bring her round again, when she 
 must be managed as before. 
 
 42. Strip Ship. 
 
 Begin aloft and go down regularly, sending down, 
 that first which went aloft by a reverse operation. 
 Commence with the Top Gallant and royal rigging, 
 and rig in the flying Jib Boom ; next send down Top- 
 sail and Lower yards. Topmast Caps ; unrig the 
 Topmasts, get in the Jib boom and Spritsail yards, 
 get off Lower Caps, Tops and rigging, unrig the 
 Bowsprit and unrig all GafFs, Booms, and Davits. 
 
fv- ^ 
 
J*JOATE VJU, 
 
277 
 43. AJ^ote on Gammoning the Bowsprit, 
 
 The better way to gammon the Bowsprit in a 
 large ship, is to get a Caulker's Stage under the Bows, 
 fore and aft under the Bowsprit, secure one end snug 
 to the stern, then get a stout tackle from the extreme 
 end of the Bowsprit, overhaul down and sling the 
 outer end of the stage. Hook on your Tackle to the 
 slings, lead your fall down on the stage, send the men 
 down and bouse well taut so as to get the weight of 
 the stage as much as possible on the Bowsprit. Now 
 your stage being secured, you can proceed to Gam- 
 mon your Bowsprit. Get two stout Luff Tackles on 
 the Stage and a viol block, then get a span around 
 the inner end of the stage to hook your viol block 
 to, having your viol hooked, clinch your gammoning 
 round your Bowsprit, with a running clinch or a 
 running eye, jam your turn well round the Bowsprit, 
 then reeve down through the gammoning hole up 
 over the'^Bowsprit, then pass your end down through 
 the Scuttle on to the stage, reeve it through the Viol 
 Blocks, on the Stage, clap on your. Luffs and bouse 
 away, leading your fall fore and aft the stage. 
 
 Note. Leading your fall in this way, has a tenden- 
 cy to lift up the inner end of the stage, and of course 
 your pulling down and the weight of the stage on 
 the gammoning must certainly bring the Bowsprit 
 
 snug down in its bed and set your gammoning up 
 24 
 
J^JDATE VJU. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 277 
 
 43. A JNote on Gammoning the Bowsjnit, 
 
 The better way to gammon the Bowsprit in a 
 large ship, is to get a Caulker's Stage under the Bows, 
 fore and aft under the Bowsprit, secure one end snug 
 to the stern, then get a stout tackle from the extreme 
 end of the Bowsprit, overhaul down and sling the 
 outer end of the stage. Hook on your Tackle to the 
 slings, lead your fall down on the stage, send the men 
 down and bouse well taut so as to get the weight of 
 the stage as much as possible on the Bowsprit. Now 
 your stage being secured, you can proceed to Gam- 
 mon your Bowsprit. Get two stout Luff Tackles on 
 the Stage and a viol block, then get a span around 
 the inner end of the stage to hook your viol block 
 to, having your viol hooked, clinch your gammoning 
 round your Bowsprit, with a running clinch or a 
 running eye, jam your turn well round the Bowsprit, 
 then reeve down through the gammoning hole up 
 over the'^Bowsprit, then pass your end down through 
 the Scuttle on to the stage, reeve it through the Viol 
 Blocks, on the Stage, clap on your. Luffs and bouse 
 away, leading your fall fore and aft the stage. 
 
 Note. Leading your fall in this way,has a tenden- 
 cy to lift up the inner end of the stage, and of course 
 your pulling down and the weight of the stage on 
 the gammoning must certainly bring the Bowsprit 
 
 snug down in its bed and set your gammoning up 
 24 
 
 / 
 
r> 
 
 278 . KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 very taut, having got your first turn taut, rack it Well, 
 pass another, and so on until you fill up your Gam- 
 moning Hole. Gammon your last turn under all 
 parts of the gammoning on the opposite side of the 
 Bowsprit, from the way you have passed your gam- 
 moning. 
 
 When you are setting up your gammoning, two 
 men ought to attend with commanders to beat it 
 solid round the Bowsprit. When they are setting up? 
 some people use a great deal of Tar and Shish on a 
 gammoning, but the less the better. A piece of good 
 leather under your gammoning is much better than 
 tarred parcelling, and when your gammoning is pass- 
 ed, turn your leather over aft, and nail it down to the 
 Bowsprit. Your Gammoning ought to le strapped 
 with large strands in the room of rope, it being much 
 better and softer to the Gammoning, and all well 
 covered to protect it from the weather — if you use 
 parcelling, let it be dry and new. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 279 
 
 
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 280 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
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 $.4 
 
 16. 
 
 A 
 
 Cordage Table of feet and fathoms. 
 
 ft. |ts 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 tsT 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. ils 
 
 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 fs. 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 fs. 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 fs. 
 
 ft. 
 
 "so 
 
 5 
 
 (I 
 
 185 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 34d56 
 
 4 
 
 495 
 
 82 
 
 3 
 
 650 
 
 108 
 
 2 
 
 805 
 
 134 
 
 ~"l 
 
 35 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 190 
 
 31 
 
 4 
 
 345:57 
 
 3 
 
 5O0 
 
 83 
 
 2 
 
 655 
 
 109 
 
 1 
 
 810 
 
 135 
 
 (( 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 195 
 
 32 
 
 3 
 
 350;58 
 
 2 
 
 505 
 
 84 
 
 
 660 
 
 110 
 
 (( 
 
 815 
 
 135 
 
 5 
 
 45| 7 
 
 S 
 
 200 
 
 33 
 
 2 
 
 355:59 
 
 1 
 
 510 
 
 85 
 
 u 
 
 665 
 
 110 
 
 5 
 
 820 
 
 136 
 
 4 
 
 50 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 •305 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 360! GO 
 
 «• 
 
 515 
 
 85 
 
 5 
 
 670 
 
 111 
 
 4 
 
 825 
 
 137 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 210 
 
 35 
 
 " 
 
 365|60 
 
 F- 
 
 520 
 
 86 
 
 4 
 
 675 
 
 112 
 
 3 
 
 830 
 
 138 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 (< 
 
 215 
 
 35 
 
 5 
 
 37061 
 
 4 
 
 525 
 
 87 
 
 a 
 
 680 
 
 113 
 
 2 
 
 835 
 
 139 
 
 1 
 
 65 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 220 
 
 36 
 
 4 
 
 37562 
 
 3 
 
 530 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 685 
 
 114 
 
 1 
 
 840 
 
 140 
 
 (( 
 
 70 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 225 
 
 37 
 
 3 
 
 380163 
 
 2 
 
 535 
 
 89 
 
 1 
 
 690 
 
 115 
 
 u 
 
 845 
 
 140 
 
 5 
 
 75 12 
 
 3 
 
 230 
 
 38 
 
 o 
 
 385164 
 
 1|540 
 
 90 
 
 (i 
 
 695 
 
 115 
 
 5 
 
 850 
 
 141 
 
 4 
 
 80!l3 
 
 2 
 
 235 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 390|65 
 
 "545 
 
 90 
 
 5 
 
 700 
 
 116 
 
 4 
 
 855 
 
 142 
 
 3 
 
 85jl4 
 
 1 
 
 240 
 
 40 
 
 (1 
 
 395 65 
 
 5;550 
 
 ^\ 
 
 4 
 
 705 
 
 117 
 
 3 
 
 860 
 
 143 
 
 2 
 
 90 15 
 
 " 
 
 245 
 
 40 
 
 5 
 
 400 66 
 
 4 
 
 555 
 
 92 
 
 3 
 
 710 
 
 118 
 
 2 
 
 865 
 
 144 
 
 1 
 
 95 15 
 
 5 
 
 250 
 
 41 
 
 4 
 
 40567 
 
 3 
 
 560 
 
 93 
 
 2 
 
 715 
 
 119 
 
 1 
 
 970 
 
 146 
 
 « 
 
 10016 
 
 4 
 
 255 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 410168 
 
 2 
 
 565 
 
 94 
 
 1 
 
 720 
 
 120 
 
 (( 
 
 975 
 
 145 
 
 5 
 
 105 17 
 
 £ 
 
 260 
 
 43 
 
 2 
 
 415|69 
 
 1 
 
 570 
 
 95 
 
 K 
 
 725 
 
 120 
 
 5 
 
 880 
 
 146 
 
 4 
 
 110118 
 
 r 
 
 265 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 420 70 
 
 (. 
 
 575 
 
 95 
 
 5 
 
 730 
 
 121 
 
 4 
 
 885 
 
 147 
 
 3 
 
 115jl9 
 
 1 
 
 270 
 
 45 
 
 '' 
 
 425 70 
 
 5 
 
 580 
 
 96 
 
 4 
 
 735 
 
 122 
 
 3 
 
 890 
 
 148 
 
 3 
 
 12020 
 
 *• 
 
 275 
 
 45 
 
 5 
 
 430 71 
 
 4 
 
 585 
 
 97 
 
 S 
 
 740 
 
 123 
 
 2 
 
 895 
 
 149 
 
 1 
 
 125 20 
 
 5 
 
 280 
 
 46 
 
 4 
 
 43572 
 
 S590 
 
 98 
 
 2 
 
 745 
 
 124 
 
 1 
 
 900 
 
 150 
 
 (C 
 
 13021 
 
 4 
 
 2S5 
 
 47 
 
 3 
 
 440173 
 
 2 
 
 595 
 
 99 
 
 \ 
 
 750 
 
 125 
 
 
 
 
 
 13522 
 
 3 
 
 290 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 44574 
 
 I 
 
 600 
 
 100 
 
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 755 
 
 125 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 140 23 
 
 S 
 
 295 
 
 49 
 
 1 
 
 450 75 
 
 (1 
 
 605 
 
 100 
 
 5 
 
 760 
 
 126 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 145124 
 
 1 
 
 300 
 
 50 
 
 i( 
 
 455' 75 
 
 5 
 
 610 
 
 101 
 
 4 
 
 765 
 
 127 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 150 25 
 
 <■ 
 
 305 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 460j76 
 
 4 
 
 615 
 
 102 
 
 3 
 
 770 
 
 128 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 155 25 
 
 5 
 
 310 
 
 51 
 
 4 
 
 465i77 
 
 3 
 
 620 
 
 103 
 
 2 
 
 775 
 
 121 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 160 26 
 
 4 
 
 315 
 
 52 
 
 3 
 
 470178 
 
 2 
 
 625 
 
 104 
 
 1 
 
 780 
 
 13( 
 
 (I 
 
 
 
 
 165 27 
 
 170 28 
 
 3 
 
 320 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 47579 
 
 1 
 
 630 
 
 105 
 
 t' 
 
 785 
 
 13C 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 325 54 
 
 1 
 
 480'80 
 
 « 
 
 635 
 
 105 
 
 5 
 
 790 
 
 131 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 175 29 
 
 1 
 
 330 55 
 
 " 
 
 485 80 
 
 5 
 
 640 
 
 lot; 
 
 4 
 
 795 
 
 132 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 ISO 30 
 
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 335 55 
 
 5 
 
 490,81 
 
 41645! 
 
 107 
 
 3 
 
 SOD 
 
 133 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 47. Weight of Cables of 120 fathoms from 3 to 24 
 inches. 
 
 In. 
 
 lbs. iu. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 in. 
 
 lb.5. 
 
 in. 
 
 Jbs. 
 
 in. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 in. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 in 
 
 lbs. 
 
 in. 
 24 
 
 lbs. 
 
 3 
 
 252 6 
 
 1008 
 
 9 
 
 2208 
 
 IS 
 
 4032 
 
 15 
 
 6328 
 
 18 
 
 9072 
 
 21 
 
 12348 
 
 16128 
 
 3i 
 
 336 6i 
 
 1176 
 
 9* 
 
 2520 
 
 12* 
 
 436S 
 
 15^ 6720 
 
 18* 
 
 9520 
 
 2U 
 
 12936 
 
 25 
 
 17500 
 
 4 
 
 448J7 
 
 1340 
 
 10 
 
 2800 
 
 13 
 
 4732 
 
 16 17168 
 
 19 
 
 101 OS 
 
 22 
 
 13452 
 
 
 
 4i 
 
 560|7i 
 
 156!- 
 
 lOi 
 
 3080 
 
 I3i 
 
 5056 
 
 16n6l6 
 
 m 
 
 10640 
 
 22i 
 
 14168 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 7008 
 
 179-2 
 
 II 
 
 338- 
 
 14 
 
 5480 
 
 17 8092 
 
 20 
 
 11200 
 
 23 
 
 14840 
 
 
 
 5| 
 
 8408i 
 
 2016 
 
 lU 
 
 369f 
 
 Ui 
 
 5880 
 
 17^'8568 
 
 20i 
 
 11760 
 
 23* 
 
 15456 
 
 
 
 i 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 281 
 
 48. How many fathoms make 112 poimds. 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 7J 
 
 
 Vi 
 
 
 m 
 
 
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 <a.£3 
 
 
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 4) .a 
 
 
 N y 
 
 
 
 N O 
 
 
 N O 
 
 
 N O 
 
 
 iC'S 
 
 fras. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S2.S 
 
 .s 
 
 
 c 
 
 feet 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 feet 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 fs. 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 
 
 ^__ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _— 
 
 
 ___ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 436 
 
 < 
 
 . 
 
 4i 
 
 24 
 
 ( 
 
 , 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 114 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 313 
 
 3 
 
 
 4i 
 
 21 
 
 3 
 
 
 8i 
 
 7 
 
 ' 
 
 S 
 
 lU 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 216 
 
 3 
 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 
 8^ 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 If 
 
 159 
 
 3 
 
 
 5i 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 
 8? 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 
 12i 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 124 
 
 3 
 
 
 5i 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 < 
 
 
 124 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 ( 
 
 2i 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 ' 
 
 b\ 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 
 9i 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 
 12f 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2i 
 
 77 
 
 3 
 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 • 3 
 
 
 94 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 2f 
 
 65 
 
 4 
 
 
 6-^ 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 
 9f 
 
 5 
 
 < 
 
 
 13i 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 ( 
 
 
 6i 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 
 134 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 ( 
 
 3i 
 
 45 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 6f 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 
 ]0i 
 
 4 
 
 -",4 
 
 
 13f 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3i 
 
 39 
 
 3 
 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 
 104 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 34 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 7i 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 
 101 
 
 *4 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 7i 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 ' 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 4i 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 « 
 
 7f 
 
 8 
 
 3 6 
 
 Hi 
 
 3 5 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 49. Proportions of Spars for Merchant Ships. 
 Length of Spars. 
 
 Main Mast equal to 2^ times the Ship's beam. 
 
 Fore " " " |ths of the Main Mast. 
 
 Mizen " " " fths " " " " 
 
 Bowsprit f ds of the Main Mast, ^d of which ought 
 to be in board. 
 
 Main Topmast f ths of the Main Mast. 
 
 Main Top Gallant Mast i of the Main Topmast, 
 exclusive of the pole which is generally ^ the length 
 of the Topgallant Mast or a little longer. 
 
 Fore Topmast f of the Foremast. 
 24* 
 
2S2 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Fore Topgallant Mast ^ the length of the Foretop- 
 mast, exclusive of the pole which is ^ the length of 
 the Top Gallant Mast. 
 
 Mizen Topmast f of the Mizen Mast. 
 
 Mizen Top Gallant mast ^ the length of the Mizen 
 Topmast, and the pole ^ the length of the Top Gal- 
 lant Mast. 
 
 Jib Boom the length of the Bowsprit, f of which 
 length is rigged without the Bowsprit Cap. 
 
 Main yard twice the ship's extreme breadth. 
 
 Main Topsail yard f of the Main Yard. 
 
 Main Top gallant yard f Main Topsail Yard. 
 
 Fore yard f of the Main Yard. 
 
 Fore Topsail Yard f of the Fore Yard. 
 
 Fore Topgallant Yard f of the Foretopsail Yard. 
 
 Royal Yards f the length of the respective Top 
 Gallant Yards. 
 
 Cross Jack Yards same length as the Main Top- 
 sail Yard. 
 
 Mizen Topsail Yard the same length as the Main 
 Top Gallant Yards. 
 
 Mizen Top Gallant Yard f of the Mizen Topsail 
 Yard. 
 • Spritsail yards f of the Fore Topsail Yard. 
 
 Remark. — Some have the Spritsail Yard the 
 length of the Fore Topsail Yard, or nearly so, if it 
 should be much shorter, the Jib sheets will chafe 
 against the Spritsail Braces. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 283 
 
 ' Spanker Boom the length of the Main Top sail 
 yard ; it is, however, made sometimes longer, and 
 sometimes shorter according to fancy. 
 
 Mizen Gaff f of the Spanker Boom, liable to the 
 same variation. 
 
 50. Thickness of Spars. 
 
 Masts. — It has been customary to allow for every 
 3 feet of the Main Mast's length, one inch of diame- 
 ter in the partners, nine-tenths of an inch diameter in 
 the middle between the partners and the extremity of 
 the head, and two thirds under the Hounds, and 
 all other masts in the same proportion, and with 
 these proportions, masts have been usually made. I 
 am, however, of opinion, that li inch diameter in the 
 partners are much better. 
 
 51. Yards. 
 
 Yards. — For every 4 feet of their length, allow 
 one inch of diameter in the slings, and half that di- 
 ameter within the squares at the yard arm. 
 
 51. Distance for placing Lower Masts. 
 
 Fore Mast \ the length of Spar Deck from for- 
 ward. Main Mast 2f as far from the Fore Mast; 
 Note. The above rule is not to be considered 
 
284 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 proper for all vessels, their places must be governed 
 by the form of the ship. 
 
 52. Breadth of Tojjs, 
 
 Main Top half the ship's beam. 
 Fore Top f of the Main Top. 
 
 54. Rule for placing Masts in a Ship. 
 
 Take the Ship's length from the after part of the 
 stem to the fore part of the Stern post and divide it 
 into sevenths. Place the foremast one seventh of 
 this length from the Stem, the Mainmast f from the 
 Foremast, the Mizen Mast f from the Main Mast, and 
 then there will be but one seventh distance between 
 the Mizen Mast and the Stern Post. This rule is for a 
 full built ship, it must therefore be varied when ap- 
 plied to vessels that are sharp, and the stem and stern 
 posts of which rake. The foremast must according- 
 ly be placed farther aft, the Mizen Mast farther for- 
 ward, and the distance between the Mastsproportion- 
 ably regulated. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 2S6 
 
 55. To find the tonnage of a vessel hy the United 
 /States Measurement. 
 
 The length is taken from the fore part of the Main 
 Stern to the after part of the Stern post, the Beam is 
 measured at the extreme breadth to the outside of 
 the Bends, three fifths of this beam is taken off the 
 length before the calculation is made. For a double 
 decked vessel, half the breadth of beam is called the 
 depth of hold, and for a single decked vessel it is the 
 same, except that the hold is measured at the fore 
 part of the Main Hatchway, from the Deck down to 
 the ceiling alongside of the Keelson. 
 
 To proceed on in this calculation after all the al- 
 lowances have been made, the length must be multi- 
 plied by the breadth, and that product by the depth 
 of Hold, then divide the last product by 95, and the 
 quotient will give the tonnage required. 
 
 Formerly the British divided by 94 for merchant 
 vessels and for ships of war by 100 ; but I have been 
 informed that they noAv divide by 100 both for ships 
 of war and merchantmen, which is the reason that 
 they make our ship's tonnage less than we do. 
 
 Notes on the tonnage of a vessel. 
 
 The Ship Carpenters' tonnage in Philadelphia dif- 
 fers from the United States measurement. 
 
 A rule staff is laid under the keel projecting for- 
 
286 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 ward, a line is plumbed from the upper part of the fore 
 part of the stern to the rule staff, the keel is measured 
 from its after part to the plumb-line, and inclu- 
 ding the Rule staff, this is called the length of Keel 
 straight rabbit, the beam is measured from skin to 
 skin on tho-inside, three fifths of the beam is taken 
 off the keel straight rabbit, for the length, and the 
 calculation in other respects is the same as United 
 States measurement, so that the Carpenters' tonnage 
 in Philadelphia will be less according to the rake of 
 the Stern Post, &c. 
 
 The dead rise of a vessel is found by having a staff 
 half the beam from skin to skin, at the extreme 
 breadth which staff is laid even across on the ceiling 
 of the fore part of the Main Hatchway, one of the 
 limber boards being taken up, a line is let fall from 
 the staff to the skin alongside the Keelson, and what 
 it measures, is the vessel's dead rise, so that in order 
 to know how sharp a vessel is, it is customary to ask 
 how much dead rise she has. 
 
 56. Stepping mid raking lower Masts. 
 
 Foremasts of all ships should be stepped plumb or 
 perpendicular to a water line, all Mainmasts should 
 rake one inch to every four feet above deck, and all 
 Mizen Masts should rake one inch to every three feet 
 
287 
 
 above deck. All Bowsprits should be stepped in a 
 direct line drawn from the step of the Mainmast to 
 the lower part of the Bowsprit bed, this line answers 
 for I he lower part of the Bowsprit. 
 
 It has been the opinion of many Sea Officers that 
 a mast by raking will aid a ship in saiHng, but it has 
 been satisfactory proved, that it has the contrary ef- 
 fect ; for instance, a ship that has her masts perpen- 
 dicular only has to bear them in two positions, the 
 one on the step and the other on the side of support, 
 her yards hang free, brace easy, and bear no strain 
 against them, whereas a ship with her masts raking, 
 has to bear them in three positions, the one on the 
 step, one on the side of support, and the other, which 
 is very great, on the fore and aft stays, her yards also 
 hang very heavy against the Mast, which adds also 
 to the fore support, this must cause a great check in 
 the progressive movements in the ship. A sharp ves- 
 sel or ship, with a lean harping by raking her masts, 
 frequently eases her in pitching, but never adds to 
 her sailing, the wind having less power on her sails, 
 and the principal reasons why a ship's Main and 
 Mizen masts should rake a little from her foremast, 
 is, that by separating the masts in this way, the wind 
 has a better chance of effecting its full power on all 
 the sails, and of striking that part of them that other- 
 wise would be of little or no advantage to the ship. 
 
288 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR; OR 
 
 57. Method of an estimate of Standing and Run- 
 ning rigging required for the outfit of aA4, Gun 
 Frigate, U. S. Navy. 
 
 Size 
 
 Len?tli 
 
 Add 
 
 in. 
 
 u 
 
 124 
 376 
 
 in. 1 in. 
 
 n\ If 
 
 1087 396 
 213|604 
 
 in. 
 
 2 
 
 1229 
 
 71 
 
 in. 
 
 2i 
 700 
 100 
 
 in. 
 
 3793 
 57 
 
 in. 
 
 21 
 76( 
 
 9(; 
 
 in. 
 
 3 
 
 3170 
 
 90 
 
 3260 
 
 in. 
 
 3i 
 
 1000 
 90 
 
 1090 
 
 in. 
 
 3i 
 
 2385 
 
 90 
 
 2475 
 
 m. 
 
 31 
 6140 
 
 eo 
 
 6230 
 
 in 
 
 4 
 
 1280 
 
 90 
 
 1370 
 
 in. 
 
 114 
 90 
 
 Total 
 
 500 
 
 isooiiooo 
 
 1300 
 
 800 
 
 385C 
 
 350 
 
 204 
 
 
 in. 
 
 in. 
 
 4f 
 160 
 90 
 
 250 
 
 in. 
 
 5 
 
 491 
 
 90 
 
 581 
 
 in. 
 
 90 
 
 90 
 
 in. 
 
 M 
 15 
 
 )0 
 
 135 
 
 in. 
 
 6 
 
 470 
 50 
 
 520 
 
 in. 
 
 61 
 
 182 
 
 5S 
 
 240 
 
 in. 
 
 7 
 110 
 30 
 
 140 
 
 in. 
 8 
 
 u 
 
 89 
 100 
 
 in^ 
 
 81 
 98 
 2 
 
 100 
 
 in. 
 
 9 
 31 
 
 in. 
 
 lU 
 
 8 
 (( 
 
 8 
 
 in. 
 
 Size 
 
 Length 
 
 Add 
 
 4i 
 
 885 
 
 90 
 
 975 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 c; 
 
 Total 
 
 31 
 
 8 
 
 58. Shroud laid Cordasre. 
 
 In. 
 
 Coils 
 
 Fms. 
 
 In. 
 
 Coil.'? 
 
 Fms. 
 
 
 In. 
 
 Coils 
 
 Fms. 
 
 u 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 4i 
 
 7 
 
 125 Cathead stoppers, 
 
 8 
 
 
 14 
 
 U 
 
 13 
 
 100 
 
 
 1 
 
 100 Wind, 
 
 7* 
 
 
 18 
 
 n 
 
 10 
 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 2 
 
 125 Shank Painters 
 
 7 
 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 100 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 125 l2lthread Ratline, 
 
 
 
 600 
 
 2i 
 
 8 
 
 100 
 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 18 " 
 
 
 
 300 
 
 2* 
 
 •• 30 
 
 100 
 
 5i 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 15 " 
 
 
 
 500 
 
 
 1 
 
 125 
 
 5i 
 
 1 
 
 135 
 
 12 " 
 
 
 
 300 
 
 2f 
 
 6 
 
 100 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 100 
 
 9 " «< 
 
 
 
 200 
 
 
 2 
 
 125 
 
 
 1 
 
 125 
 
 6 " Seizings 
 
 
 
 300 
 
 3 
 
 29 
 
 100 
 
 6i 
 
 2 
 
 120 
 
 Hambroline, 
 
 
 
 300 
 
 
 (3 
 
 120 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 140 
 
 Marline ) , , ., 
 Houselinej^^^^te 
 
 
 
 I30ths. 
 
 3i 
 
 11 
 
 100 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 130ths. 
 
 3i 
 
 21 
 
 100 
 
 8^ 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 Worming 36 yarn 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 135 
 
 y 
 
 Ip 
 
 34 
 
 c. =44^ a 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 31 
 
 49 
 
 125 
 
 lU 
 
 IP 
 
 8 
 
 Assorted 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 12 
 
 IP 
 
 8 
 
 Spinyarn 5 yarn 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 12o 
 
 
 
 
 u 4 t( 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 4i 
 
 2 
 
 125 
 
 
 
 
 " 3 " 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 2 " 
 
 
 7 ' 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT, 
 
 289 
 
 Note. Only one warp in a coil, each coil to be tallied with the 
 size, number of fathoms and weight. The tallies to be either 
 leather or Canvass. Each warp to be its full length, clear of fag 
 ends, and proof strands, the proof strands to be six feet clear of fag 
 ends. 
 
 59. 
 
 & 60. 44 Gim Frigate continued. 
 
 standing rigging 4 strand Cable laid. 
 
 fms. ft. 
 
 'ins- ft, 
 
 Main Stay, 
 Spring " 
 Fore " 
 Spring " 
 Mizen 
 
 Fore and M. Mast 
 head pendants, 
 
 Fore Shrouds, 
 
 Main " 
 
 Mizen " 
 
 Inner & Middle Bob- 
 stays, 
 
 Cap Bobstay 
 
 F. Topmast Shrouds, 
 
 Main Shrouds, 
 
 Mizen do. 
 
 p ore Top Standing \ 
 
 B. stay, S 
 
 Main do.' 
 
 Mizen do. 
 
 F. T. Mast Bt. 1 
 Backstays, 5 
 
 Main do. 
 
 Mizen do. 
 
 F. T. Gt. Shrouds 
 
 Flying Jib Guys, 
 " " Martingale 
 
 Gammoning 
 
 Deck Stoppers, 
 
 Buoy ropes, 
 
 F. &M. Bentick&) 
 Bowsprit shrouds 5 
 
 m 
 
 101 
 10* 
 
 7i 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 H 
 5 
 
 61 
 
 5i 
 
 4 
 
 3i 
 o\ 
 
 6 
 10 
 
 • 8 
 
 8i 
 
 18 
 
 199 
 249 
 121 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 83 
 
 HI 
 
 55 
 
 78 
 
 84 
 33 
 
 17 22 4 Fore Topmast Stay 
 12^, 22 4 'V " Spring 
 IG 15 Main " 
 12 15 2 " Spring 
 9 IC 4 Mizen 
 
 " Spring 
 
 3 Strand Cable laid Cordage. 
 
 Main Shrouds, 
 
 Mizen do. 
 
 F. T. Gt. Sprin 
 
 Back stays, 
 Main do. 
 Mizen do. 
 F. T. Gt. Back stays 
 Main do. 
 Mizen do. 
 Standing Jib stay, 
 
 do. do. Guy, 
 Travelling do. 
 Martingale, 
 MainT. Gt. Stay, 
 Fore do. 
 
 Mizen do. 
 Flying Jib stay. 
 Bumpkin shds. M.^ 
 
 legs & spank, boom ' 
 
 Topping Lifts, 
 F.&M.ftk.shds.& 
 Catharpin legs, 
 F. Tks. tapered each, 
 2 Main do. do. 
 2 Fore sheets do. 
 i2 Main do. do. 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 88 
 
 2^ 
 
 62 
 
 41 
 
 92 
 
 41 
 
 103 
 
 3i 
 
 39 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 4 
 
 50 
 
 21 
 
 38 
 
 5 
 
 33 
 
 4 
 
 64 
 
 3* 
 
 32 
 
 41 
 
 59 
 
 4f 
 
 30 
 
 4f 
 
 35 
 
 3* 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 5 
 
 62 
 
 6^ 
 
 95 
 
 5* 
 
 31 
 
 41 
 
 32 
 
 5 
 
 32 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
290 KEDGE ANCHORj Oil 
 
 61. Fore riggivig to he in warps hy pair 3. 
 
 fms, ft. 
 
 1st warp to contain No. 1, 2 & 3, 64 2 
 
 2d " « « « 4, 5, & 6, 66 4 
 
 3d " « « " 7, 8, <fc9, 68 4 
 
 fms. 199 4 
 
 62. Main Shrouds in tvarps hy pairs. 
 
 fms. ft. 
 
 ] St warp to contain, No. 1 , 2, & 3, 72 4 
 
 2d '• « " " 4, 5, & 6, 73 4 
 
 3d " « " '' 7, 8, 9, & 10, 102 4 
 
 fms. 249 
 
 63. Mizen rigging to he in one warp. 
 No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6, pairs of shrouds, 121 fathoms. 
 
 Main Topmast Shrouds to he i?i one loarp. 
 
 g No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, <fc 6, pairs of shrouds to contain 
 111 fathoms, 4 feet. 
 
 64; 44 Gun ship continued. 
 Fore Topmast Shrouds in one warp. 
 
 No. 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5, pairs of Shrouds to contain 83 
 fathoms. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT 
 
 291 
 
 Mizefi Topmast Shrouds to he in one warp. 
 
 No. 1, 2, 3 & 4, pair of shrouds to contain 55 fms, 
 2 feet. 
 
 Note. All the lower topmast, and topgallant rig- 
 ging to be made their respective lengths, clear of fag 
 ends and proof strands, and to be tallied with what 
 they are for length, size, number of fathoms, and 
 weight, either on wood or Canvass. 
 
 Cat head Stoppers, 
 
 Fish Davit Guys, 
 
 2 Cat falls, 
 
 Shank Painters, 
 
 1 Deck Tackle fall, 
 
 1 Fish Tackle fall, 
 
 1 Catting Tackle fall, 
 
 Rudder Pendants, 
 
 1 Buoy rope, 
 
 Back ropes for Cat and fish, 
 
 Bitt Stoppers, 
 
 60 lbs sewing & whipping twine 
 
 150 lbs of Tallow, 
 
 12 bbls Tar, 
 
 15 sides sole leather, 
 
 45 do. half Tanned do. 
 
 25 do. Bellows do. 
 
 15 lbs. white line, 
 
 8 Galls. Fish Oil, 
 
 2000 yards of old Canvass, 
 
 4000 Scupper nails, 
 
 2000 Pump Tacks, 
 
 10 lbs. Clout Nails, 
 
 8 lbs. Shoe Thread, 
 
 4 Bunches Bristles, 
 
 30 fms. 4i inch White rope, 
 
 360 '• U inch signal haliards, 
 
 12 awl blades, 
 
 12 do. handles, 
 
 50 assorted sail needles, 
 
 12 Palm Plates, 
 
 4 bolts new Canvass, 
 
 20 Gallons Tan Oil. 
 
 65. Estwiate of Standing and Running Riggiiig 
 required for the outfits of a Sloop of War of the 
 1st Class mounting 22 Gims. 
 
 4 Strand Cable laid Cordage. 
 
 
 in 
 
 Ims 
 
 in. fins. 
 
 Main Stay, 
 
 12 
 
 m 
 
 F Top Main Stays, each 
 
 6^39i 
 
 Spring Stay, 
 
 n 
 
 Hi 
 
 Main Topmast do. 
 
 6*j21 
 
 Fore Stay, 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 '< Spring *' 
 
 4|15i 
 
 Spring Stay, 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 Mizen Topmast " 
 
 4|!9i 
 
 Mizen Stay, 
 
 Li 
 
 12 
 
 " Spring " 
 
 3|i9i 
 
292 
 
 Fore Shrouds by pairs, 8 inches, No. 1, 104 ft. No. 
 2. 1 04^ ft. No. 3, 105i ft. No. 4. 106 ft. No. 5, 109 ft. 
 No. 6, 109^ ft,, to be in one warp. 120 fathoms. 
 
 Main Shrouds, 8 inch by pairs. No. 1, 116 ft. No. 
 2, 116^ ft. No. 3, 118 ft. No. 4, IIS^- ft. No. 5, 120 
 ft., No. 6, 120^ ft. No. 7, 122 ft. to be in two warps. 
 
 1st Warp to contain. No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 78 fms. 
 
 2d do. do. " 5, 6, 7, 60 « 
 
 Mast head pendants to 2d Warp, add 17 " 
 
 155 fms. 
 
 Mizen Shrouds 5} inch by pairs, No. 1, 94 feet, 
 No. 2, 94^ ft.. No. 3, 95 ft.. No. 4, 95^ ft., No. 5, 95 ft., 
 in one warp to contain 80 fathoms. 
 
 Fore Topmast Shrouds 4^ inch by pairs. No. 1, 76 
 ft., No. 2, 76ft., No. 3, 77 ft. 6 in., No. 4, 77 ft. 10 in. in 
 one warp to contain 52 fathoms. 
 
 Fore Top Mast, S. Back Stays 5^ in. by pairs. No. 
 1, 173 ft. No. 2, 173 ft. 6 in. in one wrap to contain 57 
 fathoms. 
 
 Main Top Mast, S. Back Stays, 5|- in. by pairs. 
 No. 1, 190 ft., No. 2, 190 ft. 6 in. in one warp to con- 
 tain 63 fms. 2 feet. 
 
 Main Topmast Shrouds, 4i inch by pairs. No. 1, 
 82 ft., No. 2, S'3i ft., No. 3, 84^ ft., No. 4, 85 ft., in one 
 wrap to contain 56 fathoms. 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 293 
 
 Mizen Topmast S. Backstays, 4^ inch, 148 feet is, 
 24 fms. 4 feet. 
 
 Mizen Topmast Shrouds 3f inch, No. 1, 64 feet, 
 No. 2, 65, No. 3, 65, in one warp to contain 32 fras, 
 2 feet. 
 
 I size.l"ms.|ft. 
 
 size I fras. I ft. 
 
 F.T.M. Breast Back 
 Stay, 
 
 Main do. 1 pair, 
 
 Mizen do. 
 
 Standing Jib Stay, 
 Guys, 
 
 Travellins: *' 
 
 Martingale, 
 
 F. T. G. Stay, 
 
 Flying Jib do. 
 Guys, 
 
 Martingale, 
 
 F. T. Gt. Shrouds, 
 
 " " Standing Back 
 Stay, 
 
 if 2 pair but if only 1 
 
 F. T: Gt. B. Back- 
 stays, 
 
 M. T. Gt. Shrouds, 
 " Stay, 
 
 " Standing B. do. 
 
 if 2 pair but if only 1 
 
 F. Tacks tapered 
 each. 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 (( 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
 (C 
 
 4^ 
 
 24 
 
 4 
 
 4i 
 
 30 
 
 
 3^ 
 
 23 
 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 
 3i 
 
 40 
 
 
 U 
 
 28 
 
 
 3i 
 
 36 
 
 5 
 
 2f 
 
 28 
 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 
 3i 
 
 60 
 
 
 3f 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 
 3i 
 
 35 
 
 
 3i 
 
 65 
 
 
 4^ 
 
 60 
 
 
 3f 
 
 76 
 
 
 « 
 
 38 
 
 
 41 
 
 21 
 
 (1 
 
 4f 
 
 23 
 
 (( 
 
 M. r. Gt. B. Back 
 
 Stay, 
 
 Mizen T. Gt. Stay, 
 ' Shrouds, 
 
 ' S. Backstays, 
 
 F. & M. Futtock and 
 Catharpln Legs, 
 
 Royal Stays, 
 Shrouds, 
 
 Gammoning, 
 
 Bowsprit Shrouds, 
 
 Buoy Ropes, 
 
 Inner Bobstays if 2 
 if only one, 
 
 Cap Bobstay, 
 
 Bumpkin Shrouds, • 
 
 Mizen Futtock Shds 
 
 Cat harpin legs and 
 Spanker bra. Top- 
 ping Lifts, 
 
 M. Tacks tapered 
 each, 
 " Sheets, 
 
 3^ 
 
 38 
 
 2S 
 
 9 
 
 2i 
 
 50 
 
 2f 
 
 30 
 
 ^ 
 
 160 
 
 2 
 
 53 
 
 n 
 
 53 
 
 5^ 
 
 32 
 
 6 
 
 25 
 
 6 
 
 26 
 
 61 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 5| 
 
 12 
 
 3? 
 
 62 
 
 4i 
 
 25 
 
 41 
 
 22 
 
 Note. All the foregoing Cordage to be cable laid 
 and to measure their lengths on the stretch, clear of 
 fag ends and proof strands, each coil and warp to be 
 tallied with what they are for, weight, size, number 
 of fathoms, either on wood or canvass. 
 
 25^ 
 
294 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 66. Running rigging Shroud laid. 
 
 size 
 
 1 
 
 fms 
 362 
 
 coils. 
 - 2 
 
 size 
 2f 
 
 fms. 
 110 
 
 coils. 
 1 
 
 size 
 
 fms. 
 
 coUs. 
 1 
 
 4^ 
 
 79 
 
 u 
 
 550 
 
 3 
 
 2f 
 
 1855 
 
 18 
 
 4| 
 
 289 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 800 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 745 
 
 7 
 
 4* 
 
 80 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 800 
 
 8 
 
 3^ 
 
 136 
 
 1 
 
 4f 
 
 207 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1722 
 
 16 
 
 3i 
 
 1855 
 
 18 
 
 5^ 
 
 379 
 
 4 
 
 2^ 
 
 180 
 
 1 
 
 3i 
 
 400 
 
 4 
 
 6^ 
 
 90 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 844 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 389 
 
 4 
 
 6f 
 
 87 
 
 1 
 
 2i 
 
 1685 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 261 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 Note All the running rigging to be their full 
 length, clear of fag ends and proof strands, the proof 
 strands to be 6 feet clear of the fag ends. Every 
 coil to be tallied with the weight, size and fathoms, 
 either on wood or Canvass. 
 
 
 in. Ifins. 1 
 
 in. ifms.j 
 
 Cat head Stoppers, 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 Bambroline, 
 
 200 
 
 lbs- 
 
 Wing do. 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 Houseline white 
 
 85 
 
 <( 
 
 Bitt do. 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 Marline, 
 
 85 
 
 « 
 
 Shank Painters, 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 Tallow, 
 
 150 
 
 (( 
 
 21 thread Ratline, 
 
 
 400 
 
 Tar, 
 
 7 
 
 bis. 
 
 18 do. do. 
 
 
 200 
 
 Sole leather, 
 
 10 
 
 side 
 
 15 do. do. 
 
 
 250 
 
 Half tanned do. 
 
 31 
 
 (1 
 
 12 do. do. 
 
 
 200 
 
 Bellows, do. 
 
 17 
 
 
 9 do. do- 
 
 
 250 
 
 Sewing Twine. 
 
 25 
 
 lbs. 
 
 6 do. do. 
 
 
 600 
 
 Whipping do. 
 
 15 
 
 tt 
 
 White Line, 
 
 10 
 
 ths. 
 
 Palm plates. 
 
 12 
 
 n 
 
 Old Canvass, 
 
 1334 
 
 yds. 
 
 Worming 24 yarn , 
 
 4 
 
 coil 
 
 Scupper Nails, 
 
 2667 
 
 
 do. 30 do. 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 Clout Nails, 
 
 6A 
 
 ths. 
 
 do, Assorted, 
 
 3 
 
 « 
 
 Pump Tacks, 
 
 1300 
 
 
 Spinyarn 5 yarn. 
 
 5 
 
 ii 
 
 Shoe Thread, 
 
 3 
 
 ths. 
 
 do. 4 do. 
 
 5 
 
 « 
 
 Bristles, 
 
 3 
 
 bun. 
 
 do. 3 do. 
 
 9 
 
 (( 
 
 Sail needles ass. 
 
 50 
 
 
 do. 2 do. 
 
 12 
 
 (C 
 
 Awl Blades, 
 
 12 
 
 
 White rope, | inch. 
 
 25 
 
 fms 
 
 " Handles, 
 
 12 
 
 
 Signal Haliards, 
 
 340 
 
 (( 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT 
 
 295 
 
 ^7. Dimensions of the Standing and Rmming of 
 a Ship of the Line^ U. /S. Navy. 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 Bowsprit. 
 
 
 
 Sheets, - 
 
 "31 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 
 Downhaul, 
 
 '^1 
 
 35 
 
 Gammoning, - 
 
 7 
 
 128 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds. Cabled 3 pr. 
 
 8h 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 Collar, ' - - - 
 
 9h 
 
 15 
 
 Jib of Jib Boom. 
 
 
 
 Bobstays, 3, 121, Hi ) 
 9 inches. 5 
 Collars, - 
 Man Ropes, - 
 
 9 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 Jib of Jib Stay, 
 Boom Guys, 
 Heel Rope, 
 Foot Ropes. - 
 Halyards, 
 
 3i 
 
 21 
 21 
 
 53 
 
 47 
 
 45 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 2f 
 
 64 
 
 Spritsail Yaid. 
 
 4 
 
 4h 
 
 Sheets, - . - 
 
 21 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 Downhaul, 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 Slings, - 
 
 4 
 
 4h 
 
 Martingale Stay, 
 
 3 
 
 75 
 
 Lifts, 
 
 3^ 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 7^ 
 
 
 
 
 Foot ropes, 
 
 
 
 Stirrups, - - - 
 
 3 
 
 h 
 
 Fore Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 
 Braces, - - _ 
 
 3.1 
 
 62 
 
 Shrouds Cabled, 10 prs. 
 Lanyards, 
 
 U 
 
 51 
 
 245 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jib Boom. 
 
 
 
 Ratlines, 
 
 2i 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 Jib Stay Cabled, 
 
 61 
 
 45 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 Guy pendants, 3 pairs, 
 
 5^ 
 
 70 
 
 Collar, - 
 
 9 
 
 
 Falls, 
 
 3 
 
 (( 
 
 Preventer Stay Cabled, 
 
 13* 
 
 17 
 
 Martingale Stay, 
 
 5 
 
 53 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 5* 
 
 
 Pendants, 
 
 41 
 
 
 Collar, double, 
 
 7^ 
 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 31 
 
 65 
 
 Catharpin legs, 
 Bentick Shrouds, 
 
 7 
 
 
 Sheets, - 
 
 4J 
 
 70 
 
 8i 
 
 17i 
 
 Downhaul, 
 
 31 
 
 42 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 4i 
 
 
 Outhauler, 
 
 41 
 
 
 Jeer Pendants, 
 
 10 
 
 28 
 
 Upper Brails, 
 
 If 
 
 60 
 
 Falls, - - - 
 
 5 
 
 116 
 
 Lower " - - 
 
 3 
 
 35 
 
 Yard Lifts, 
 
 6^ 
 
 100 
 
 Boom foot Ropes, 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 " auarter Lifts, 
 
 5^ 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 " foot Ropes, 
 " Stirrups, 
 
 5i 
 4i 
 
 21 
 
 
 24 
 
 Flying Jib Boom. 
 
 
 
 " Tackle pendants, 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 Flying Jib Stay, C'bl'd, 
 
 4i 
 
 50 
 
 " " falls, - 
 
 Braces, - 
 
 " Preventer, - 
 
 4i 
 
 5* 
 
 112 
 16 
 
 Martingale Guy, 2 prs. 
 Boom Guys, 
 
 4 
 
 3J 
 
 65 
 60 
 36 
 
 83 
 
 Heel Rope, 
 
 
 
 Foot Ropes, - 
 
 3' 
 
 12 
 
 Fore Yard and Mast. 
 
 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 3J 
 
 55 
 
 Truss pendants, 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
296 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 Truss Falls, - 
 
 Slings, - 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 Fo^e Tacks, Cabled, 
 " Sheets, " 
 " Clew Garnets, 
 " Reef Pendants, 
 " Buntline " 
 " " Whips, 
 
 " Bowlines, 
 " " Bridles, 
 
 '' Slab Lines, 
 " Bill tricing Lines, 
 " Gluarter •' " 
 " Clew Jiggers, 
 " Lift 
 " Bunt " 
 " In & Out ''• 
 " Storm stay, 
 " " " sail Hal 
 " " " sheets, 
 " " Downhaul, 
 
 Lower St'g. sail outer 
 
 Halyards, 
 Lower St'g. sail inner 
 Halyards, 
 
 Lower Sheets, 
 " Tacks, 
 «' Boom Top. Lfts, 
 " Whips, 
 " After Guys, - 
 " Forward Guys, 
 
 St'g. sail Gear Tricing 
 Line, 
 
 F. Top Mast and Yard^ 
 
 Shrouds Cabled 6 pairs, 
 
 Lanyards 
 
 Ratline - - - 
 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 
 Spring stay, 
 
 Breast Back Stays - 
 
 Standing do, do. 2 prs. 
 
 Futtock Shrouds, 
 
 Ratline, - - - 
 
 fms 
 
 58 
 40 
 48 
 70 
 50 
 34 
 56 
 
 37 
 36 
 21 
 
 100 
 
 55 
 
 26 
 
 50 
 40 
 86 
 91 
 
 43 
 
 124 i 
 
 Top Rope Pendants, 
 
 Falls, 
 
 Top Burton pendants, 
 '' «' Falls, - 
 Topsail Yard Tyes, 
 " Parrel, 
 " Foot Ropes, 
 " yard Stirrups 
 " Braces, 
 tc Lifts 
 
 '• Rolling Tackle 
 '•' Downhaul do, 
 " Haliards, - 
 " Sheets double^ 
 " Reef Pendants 
 " " Whips, 
 " Buntlines, - 
 '' Pendants, - 
 " Bowlines, - 
 " Bridles, 
 " Clewlines, - 
 " Bunt Jiggers, 
 " Clew 
 T. M. Staysail Halyds, 
 •' Sheets, 
 " Tacks, each - 
 " Downhaul, 
 " Boom Braces, 
 " Brace Pendants, 
 " Tricing Line, 
 
 F. T. G. Mast ^ Yard. 
 
 Shrouds Cabled, 3 prs. 
 Lanyards, 
 
 Ratline, - - - 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 Lanyard, 
 
 B. Backstays, Cabled ) 
 1 pair, S 
 
 Standing Back Stays } 
 1 pair, 5 
 
 Lanyards, B. B. S, - 
 Lanyards, S. B. S. - 
 Mast Rope, 
 
 5 
 6 
 4 
 
 7 
 7 
 4i 
 
 41 
 
 6 
 
 31 
 
 31 
 
 4i 
 
 7 
 
 41 
 
 31 
 
 31 
 
 4 
 
 4* 
 
 J 15 
 J 17 
 105 
 5 
 115 
 42 
 
 16 
 
 116 
 74 
 
 20 
 
 47 
 
 114 
 
 80 
 45 
 
 74 
 74 
 28 
 70 
 
 31 
 
 31 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3i 
 
 4i 
 
 3^ 
 
 4^ 
 2i 
 
 7 
 
 58 
 52 
 47 
 60 
 94 
 5 
 46 
 
 33 
 
 43 
 
 47 
 49 
 
 60 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT.' 
 
 297 
 
 ■^ ■ 
 
 in. 
 
 fins.] 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 Pendant, 
 
 "ei 
 
 ~lo 
 
 Stdg. Sail Sheets, - 
 
 "n 
 
 ~li3 
 
 Falls, - - - 
 
 4 
 
 48 
 
 ' " " " Tacks, - 
 
 21 
 
 40 
 
 Yard Rope, 
 
 7 
 
 60 
 
 " '' " Downhaul, 
 
 15^'' 
 
 39 
 
 " Lifts, - - 
 
 4f 
 3 
 
 60 
 122 
 
 
 
 
 " Braces, - 
 
 
 
 " Foot Ropes, - 
 
 3* 
 
 JO 
 
 Fore Skysail Mast and 
 
 
 
 " Stirrups, - 
 
 
 
 Yard. 
 
 
 
 « Tyes, 
 Top Gallant Halyards, 
 " " Sheets, 
 
 6i 
 31 
 
 41 
 
 11 
 
 48 
 80 
 
 Trysail Stay, - 
 " Back Stay, 
 
 2i 
 
 57 
 63 
 
 " " Buntlines, 
 
 2| 
 
 74 
 
 " Mast Rope, 
 
 3 
 
 63 
 
 <' " Bowlines, 
 
 2f 
 
 98 
 
 " Halyard, - 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 " " Bridles, 
 
 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 If 
 
 54 
 
 «' " Clewlines, 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
 " Tripping Line, 
 
 15ih 
 
 24 
 
 Bunt Jigger, - 
 Sty. Sail Halyards, - 
 " Sheets, 
 
 2^ 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 90 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 Fore Moon Sail Pole. 
 
 
 " Tacks, 
 
 2f 
 
 60 
 
 Moon sail Halyards IJ, 
 
 4U 
 
 46 
 
 •' B. Tricing line, 
 
 2f 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 
 
 Main Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 
 
 F. R. Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shrouds Cabled, 11 prs. 
 
 lU 
 
 300 
 
 Royal Shrouds cabled, 
 
 8| 
 
 39 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 51 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Ratline, 
 
 2i 
 
 
 " Stay Cabled, - 
 
 3 
 
 51 
 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 
 18 
 
 32 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 6 
 
 
 " B. Bk. S. cabled. 
 
 3 
 
 56 
 
 Collar, 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Preventer Stay Cabled, 
 
 144 
 
 32 
 
 « Standing B. ) 
 Backstays cabled, ) 
 
 31 
 
 57 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 6 
 
 
 Collar, 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Catharpin Legs, 
 
 7 
 
 
 Mast Rope, 
 
 44 
 
 65 
 
 Bentick Shrouds, 
 
 84 
 
 22 
 
 " Yard Rope, - 
 
 4A 
 
 65 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 " " Lifts, 
 
 3* 
 
 58 
 
 Lashings, 
 
 
 
 " " Braces, - 
 
 2f 
 
 78 
 
 Jeer pendants. 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 " " Foot Ropes, 
 
 3 
 
 n 
 
 " Falls, 
 
 5 
 
 132 
 
 " « Halyards, 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 Stay Tackle Pendants, 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 « " Sheets, - 
 
 2| 
 
 42 
 
 " Fall, - 
 
 44 
 
 50 
 
 " " Buntlines, 
 
 2f 
 
 44 
 
 Yard Lifts, - 
 
 64 
 
 106 
 
 " " Bowlines, 
 
 2| 
 
 55 
 
 " auarterLift, - 
 
 (( 
 
 60 
 
 " " Bridles, - 
 
 
 
 •' Foot Ropes, - 
 
 54 
 
 24 
 
 " " Clewlines, 
 
 n 
 
 42 
 
 " Tackle Pendants, 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 " " Bunt Jigger, 
 
 
 
 " " Falls, - 
 
 34 
 
 120 
 
 '' Tripp, line. 
 
 2 
 
 32 
 
 " Braces, 
 
 54 
 
 120 
 
 '' " Stdg. Sail 
 
 
 
 Preventer " 
 
 (( 
 
 77 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 n 
 
 66 
 
 Brace Pendants, 
 
 
 11 
 
298 
 
 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 in. 
 7 
 
 fnis. 
 
 
 in. 
 
 T 
 
 tins. 
 
 Yard Truss Pendanis, 
 
 ~u 
 
 Topsail Tye, 
 
 ~46" 
 
 Falls, - 
 
 3^ 
 
 44 
 
 Parrel long leg, 
 
 7 
 
 17 ft 
 
 Slings, - 
 
 15 
 
 10^ 
 
 " short leg, 
 
 7 
 
 9 ft 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 6 
 
 b 
 
 Topsail Foot Ropes, 
 
 4i 
 
 17^ 
 
 Main Tacks, Cabled, 
 
 7 
 
 96 
 
 " Stirrups, 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 Preventer " 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 " Yard Braces, 
 
 5 
 
 88 
 
 Sheets, 
 
 / 
 
 96 
 
 '• Lifts, 
 
 6 
 
 80 
 
 Clew Garnets, 
 
 4i 
 
 70 
 
 " RoLTack. 
 
 
 26 
 
 Reef Pendants, 
 
 41 
 
 10 
 
 " " Down. " 
 
 31 
 
 50 
 
 Buntline " 
 
 3f 
 
 49 
 
 Topsail Halyards, 
 
 4* 
 
 124 
 
 " Whips, 
 
 3| 
 
 70 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 7 
 
 86 
 
 Bowlines, 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 " Reef Pendants, 
 
 41 
 
 54 
 
 Runners, 
 
 3| 
 
 10 
 
 " Whips, 
 
 3^ 
 
 80 
 
 " Bridles, 
 
 
 
 Buntlines, 
 
 3f 
 
 82 
 
 Leechlines, 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 " Pendants, 
 
 U 
 
 32 
 
 Slablines, 
 
 2 
 
 100 
 
 Bowlines, 
 
 4^ 
 
 70 
 
 Bill Tricing Lines, 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 Bridles, 
 
 3| 
 
 
 Quarter " 
 
 n 
 
 48 
 
 Clew lines, 
 
 4 
 
 100 
 
 Clew Jiggers, 
 
 n 
 
 80 
 
 Clew Jiggers, - 
 
 
 
 Lift 
 
 31 
 
 56 
 
 Bunt 
 
 
 
 Bunt " 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 T.M. Staysail stay, (see 
 
 
 
 In & Out" 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 Spring stay.) 
 
 
 
 M. Storm staysail Stay, 
 
 8 
 
 19 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 4 
 
 58 
 
 " Halyards, 
 
 4 
 
 46 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 3i 
 
 45 
 
 . " " Sheets, 
 
 4| 
 
 42 
 
 " Tacks, 
 
 4^ 
 
 18 
 
 , " " Downhaul, 
 
 4| 
 
 44 
 
 '' Downhaul, 
 
 3i 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 
 Middle Staysail stay, 
 •' " Halyards, 
 
 41 
 4 
 
 37 
 
 
 42 
 
 Main Topmast <^ Yard. 
 
 
 
 " " Sheets, 
 
 3| 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 
 " " Tacks, 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Shrouds, Cabled, 7 prs. 
 
 7 
 
 151 
 
 " " Downhaul, 
 
 3 
 
 38 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 3f 
 
 
 Studding sail Halyard, 
 
 H 
 
 104 
 
 Ratline, 
 
 U 
 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 4* 
 
 85 
 
 Stay, Cabled, - 
 
 Sh 
 
 30 
 
 " Tacks, 
 
 4| 
 
 76 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 
 
 " Downhaul, 
 
 3 
 
 68 
 
 Spring Slay Cabled, 
 
 
 20 
 
 Boom Braces, 
 
 3^ 
 
 120 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 
 
 " Pendants, 
 
 4* 
 
 6 
 
 B. Backstay, Cab'd, 2 p. 
 
 7 
 
 90 
 
 " Tricing Lines- 
 
 3i 
 
 46 
 
 Standing " 2 p. 
 
 71 
 
 94 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Lanyard B. B. S. - 
 
 4i 
 
 
 
 
 
 '« S. B. S. - 
 
 4i 
 
 
 M.T.Gt.M.andYard. 
 
 
 
 Futtock Shrouds, 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 " Ratline, 
 
 If 
 
 
 T. G. Shrouds cabled 
 
 
 
 Top rope pendants, 
 
 9 
 
 1921 
 
 3 pairs. 
 
 41 
 
 38 
 
 " " Falls, - 
 
 5 
 
 123 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 3 
 
 
 '' Burton " 
 
 4 
 
 120 
 
 Ratline, - 
 
 
 
 " " pendants, 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 
 5 
 
 36 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 299 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fas. 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 
 
 Yard Rope, 
 
 li 
 
 70 
 
 Standing Bk. Stays 1 pr 
 
 5 
 
 56 
 
 " Lifts, 
 
 3^ 
 
 74 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 " Braces, - 
 
 3 
 
 73 
 
 Mast Pendants, 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 " Foot Ropes, - 
 
 
 7i 
 
 « Falls, - 
 
 4i 
 
 62 
 
 " Stirrups, 
 
 
 
 Mast Rope, 
 
 7 
 
 67 
 
 " Halyards, - . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Yard Rope, - 
 
 7 
 
 67 
 
 « Sheets, - 
 
 3 
 
 52 
 
 *« Lifts, 
 
 4 
 
 64 
 
 " Buntlines, 
 
 21 
 
 50 
 
 " Braces, - 
 
 3i 
 
 96 
 
 Legs, 
 
 
 
 " Foot Ropes, - 
 
 3i 
 
 lU 
 
 '• Bowlines, 
 
 2i 
 
 60 
 
 Yard Stirrups, 
 
 21 
 
 
 " Bridles, 
 
 
 
 " Tye,"^ - 
 
 6| 
 
 12 
 
 " Clewlines, 
 
 2f 
 
 48 
 
 Top Gallant Halyards, 
 
 4 
 
 56 
 
 Bunt Jigger, 
 
 
 
 Sheets, 
 
 4i 
 
 88 
 
 Tripping Line, - 
 R. Staysail Stay, cabl'd 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 " Buntlines, 
 
 2f 
 
 80 
 
 3 
 
 43 
 
 « Bowlines, 
 
 2f 
 
 84 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 2h 
 
 57 
 
 « Bridles, 
 
 
 
 Royal Staysail Sheets, 
 
 H 
 
 63 
 
 Clewlines, 
 
 3 
 
 86 
 
 " " Tacks, 
 
 2h 
 
 4 
 
 Bunt Jigger, 
 
 U 
 
 12 
 
 " « Downhaul 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 Up. T. G. Stay S. Stay, 
 
 31 
 
 45 
 
 Studg. sail Halyards, 
 
 21 
 
 84 
 
 '' Haliards - 
 
 3i 
 
 52 
 
 «' Sheets, 
 
 u 
 
 35 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 21 
 
 48 
 
 " " Tacks, 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 Tacks, - 
 
 2f 
 
 5 
 
 " " Downhaul, 
 
 15'h 
 
 43 
 
 " Downhaul, 
 
 4i 
 
 35 
 40 
 
 
 
 
 L. " Stay S. Stay 
 
 Main Skysail Mast tf- 
 
 
 " Haliards, - 
 
 3 
 
 48 
 
 Yards. 
 
 
 
 *' Sheets, 
 
 2i 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 '• Tacks, - 
 
 2i 
 
 5 
 
 Skysail Stay; 
 
 21 
 
 35 
 
 " Downhaul, 
 
 2i 
 
 33 
 
 *' Back Stays, 
 
 •2i 
 
 61 
 
 T. Gt. Std. S. Haliards, 
 
 3^ 
 
 108 
 
 " Mast Rope, 
 
 3i 
 
 66 
 
 «' " Sheets, 
 
 21 
 
 44 
 
 " Halyards, 
 
 2 
 
 42 
 
 " " Tacks, 
 
 21 
 
 38 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 11 
 
 56 
 
 « " Tricing 
 
 
 
 '* Tripping Line, 
 
 15^ 
 
 27 
 
 Lines, 
 
 18th 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Main Moon Sail Pole. 
 
 
 
 M. Royal M. and Yard. 
 
 
 
 MoonsailHalyards, 
 
 u 
 
 50 
 
 Shrouds cabled, 2 pairs 
 Lanyards, 
 
 31 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stay, 
 
 31 
 
 31 
 
 Mizen Mast 4*- Cross 
 
 
 
 Breast Back Stay, 1 pr. 
 
 31 
 
 62 
 
 Jack Yard. 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Shrouds Cabled 7 pairs, 
 
 71 
 
 166 
 
 Standing Bk. Stay, 1 pr. 
 
 31 
 
 64 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Ratline, 
 
 U 
 
 
 Mast Rope, 
 
 4J 
 
 70 
 
 (Stay Cabled, - 
 
 9 
 
 2JX 
 
300 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fms 
 
 
 in. 
 
 fms. 
 
 Lanyard, 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 3 
 
 
 Collar, - 
 
 
 
 Ratline, 
 
 18ti> 
 
 
 Cathfrpin Legs, 
 
 
 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 Cross Jack Yard Lifts, 
 
 4i 
 
 
 Preventer do. 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 " Foot Ropes, 
 
 H 
 
 18 
 
 Breast Back Stay, I p, 
 
 5 
 
 37 
 
 " Stirrups, 
 
 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 " Braces, 
 
 3^ 
 
 68 
 
 Standing B'k Stays 1 p. 
 
 6 
 
 39 
 
 " Truss pend'ts, 
 
 5 
 
 ^i 
 
 Lanyards, 
 
 
 
 Falls. 
 
 3 
 
 18' 
 
 Futtock Shrouds, 
 
 51 
 
 
 " Slings, 
 
 8 
 
 
 Ratline, 
 
 18^ 
 
 
 Spanker Boom Topping 
 
 
 
 Top rope Pendants, 
 Falls, 
 
 f, 
 
 17 
 
 Lifts, - 
 
 5| 
 
 40 
 
 3| 
 
 47 
 
 " " '« Falls, 
 
 31 
 
 4c' 
 
 Burton Pendants, 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 " Guy Pendants, 
 
 5 
 
 y 
 
 "■ Falls, - 
 
 31 
 
 45 
 
 " Falls, 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 Topsail Yard Tye, 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 3i 
 
 50 
 
 « Parrells, - 
 
 5i 
 
 
 Foot Ropes, 
 
 3 
 
 
 Foot Ropes, 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 Onthauler, 
 
 5 
 
 35 
 
 Stirrups, 
 
 
 
 Peak Brails, 
 
 2i 
 
 38 
 
 Braces, 
 
 3i 
 
 82 
 
 Throat do. 
 
 3f 
 
 40 
 
 Lifts, 
 
 4f 
 
 30 
 
 Middle do. 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 Rolling Tackles, 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 Foot do. 
 
 3i 
 
 40 
 
 Downhaul do. 
 
 3i 
 
 33 
 
 " Peak Halyards, 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 n 
 
 52 
 
 " Throat do. 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 Topsail Sheets, 
 
 5 
 
 60 
 
 " Vang Falls, 
 
 3i 
 
 53 
 
 ReefPendants, 
 
 3i 
 
 34 
 
 " Staysail Stay, 
 
 5J 
 
 m 
 
 « " Whips, 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 " Halyards, 
 
 3i 
 
 32 
 
 " Buntline Pendants, 
 
 3f 
 
 30 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 4* 
 
 11 
 
 Whips, 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 " Tack, 
 
 n 
 
 10 
 
 Bowlines, 
 
 3 
 
 51 
 
 " Downhaul, 
 
 3i 
 
 18 
 
 Clue lines, 
 
 8i 
 
 77 
 
 " Brails, 
 
 31 
 
 40 
 
 Clue Jiggers, 
 
 
 
 Storm " Stay, 
 
 
 
 T. M. Staysail Stay, 
 
 
 
 " Halyards, 
 
 3^ 
 
 37 
 
 (see Spring Stay,) 
 
 
 
 " « Sheets, 
 
 4i 
 
 11 
 
 « " Halyards, 
 
 3i 
 
 34 
 
 " « Downhaul, 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 " Mizen Peak, 
 
 
 
 " " Tacks, 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 '' « Halyards, 
 
 4 
 
 60 
 
 " " Downhauls, 
 
 2i 
 
 23 
 
 " Throat do. 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 Middle Staysail Stay, 
 
 31 
 
 20 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 Halyards, 
 
 3i 
 
 30 
 
 " " Downhaul, 
 
 3 
 
 38 
 
 Sheets, 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 Ringtail Halyards, 
 
 
 
 Tacks, 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 Tack, 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 Downhaul, 
 
 n 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 
 Gaff Topsail Jack Stay, 
 
 li 
 
 12i 
 
 
 Mizen Topmast and 
 
 
 
 " «' Halyards, 
 
 31 
 
 25 
 
 Yard. 
 
 
 
 « « Tack, 
 
 3 
 
 
 Topmast Shrouds, Ca- 
 
 
 
 *' « Outhauler, 
 
 21 
 
 17 
 
 bled 5 pair, 
 
 5^ 
 
 88 
 
 " '' Downhaul, 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 301 
 
 M. T. Gt. M. ili" Yard. 
 
 Shrouds cabled 3 pairs, 
 Lanyards, 
 Ratlines, 
 Stay, 
 
 Lanyards, 
 B. Back Stay, 1 pair, 
 
 Lanyards, 
 Stand. Bk. Stay, 1 pair. 
 
 Lanyard 
 Mast Pendants, 
 
 <' Fall, 
 Mast Rope, 
 Yard Rope, ' - 
 
 " Lifts, 
 " Braces, 
 " Foot Ropes, - 
 " Stirrups, 
 " Tye, 
 " Halyards, 
 ♦' Sheets - 
 " Buntlines, 
 " Bowlines, 
 " " Bridles 
 
 " Clew lines, 
 " Bunt Jiggers, - 
 T. Gt. Staysail Stay, 
 " Halyards, - 
 »' Sheets, 
 " Tacks, 
 " Downhaul, 
 T. Gt, Std. sail Halyds, 
 '' Sheets, 
 " Tacks, 
 " Tricing line 
 
 Mizen R. M. and Yard- 
 
 Shrouds cabled, 2 pair, 
 
 Lanyards, 
 Stay Cabled, - 
 Breast Backstays 1 pr 
 
 Lanyards, 
 Stand. Bk Stays I pair 
 
 Lanyaids, 
 Mast Rope, 
 Yard Rope, 
 
 3i 
 
 fms 
 
 — 
 
 
 3J 
 
 28 
 
 u 
 
 
 12ih 
 
 
 31 
 
 19 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 
 9 
 45 
 
 54 
 54 
 
 60 
 
 72 
 8 
 
 9 
 40 
 53 
 30 
 70 
 
 70 
 12 
 23 
 38 
 37 
 4 
 14 
 75 
 J7 
 24 
 27 
 
 Yard l^itts, 
 " Braces, - 
 " Foot Ropes, 
 ** Stirrups, - 
 " Halyards, 
 " Sheets, - 
 " Buntlines, 
 " Bowlines, 
 
 Bridles, 
 Clewlines, 
 Bunt Jigger, 
 I'ripping Line, 
 Royal Staysail Stay, 
 Halyards, 
 " Sheets, 
 *' Downhaul, 
 R.StdgSail Halyards, 
 " Sheets, 
 " Tacks, 
 " Downhaul. 
 
 Miz. Sky sail M.d^ Yard 
 Sky sail Mast Rope, - 
 Halyards, 
 
 " Sheets, 
 
 '' Stays, 
 
 Back " 
 
 Moon Sail Pole. 
 Moonsail Halyards, - 
 
 Miseellaneous Rigging 
 
 Cat falls, 
 
 Fish falls, 
 
 Cat head stoppers, - 
 
 Shank Painters, 
 
 But Stoppers, 
 
 lling Stoppers, 
 24 Deck Tackle, 
 
 Pore Stay Tackles, - 
 22 Main Stay Tackles, 
 
 52 '• " Pendants, 
 Boats Falls, - 
 
 53 Stern Boats Falls. - 
 After Cluarter B'ts. - 
 
 52 Porward Boats Fall, 
 
 54 vVaist Boats Falls, 
 
 26 
 
 IS'h 
 
 15 
 15 
 15 
 
 21 
 
 u 
 
 18th 
 
 U 
 
 6i 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 ^h 
 
 4^ 
 7 
 
 4i 
 4 
 4 
 3 
 
302 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 66. An Estimate of the size and quantity of Blocks 
 required to Jit out a Ship of the Line. 
 
 Jib of Jib Downhaul. 
 
 Jib of Jib Downhaul, 
 
 Martingale Stay on Boom end, 
 do. do. Tackle, 
 do. do. do. 
 
 Guy Tackle, 
 do. 
 
 Halyards at royal mast head, 
 
 Flying Jib Boom. 
 
 Martingale Stay on Boom end, 
 
 do. do. Tackle, 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 Downhaul on Beam on end, 
 Fore Royal Bowline do. - 
 Flying Jibstay Tackle, - - " 
 
 do. do. 
 
 Guy Tackle, 
 
 do. . - - 
 
 Sheets in Clew of sail, - - * 
 
 Halyards at the F. T. Gallant M. H., B. S. 
 Head and Heel ropes. Flying Jib boom. 
 
 Jib. Boom. 
 
 20 Martingale Stay on Boom end, 
 
 21 do. do. Tackle, 
 
 22 do. do. do. 
 23Uib Downhaul, 
 
 24iBrails on Jib stay, - - - 
 
 ^^25 do. leading on Boom end, 
 ^^6 Jib Outhauler, 
 
 271F. T. Gallant Bowline on the Boom end, 
 
 6 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vj 
 
 Ph 
 
 
 s 
 
 4 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 2 
 
 D 
 
 2 
 
 S 
 
 <^ 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 «' 
 
 s 
 
 it 
 
 D 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 S' 
 
 a 
 
 D 
 
 u 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 4 
 
 s 
 
 \ 
 
 s 
 
 4* 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 " 
 
 D 
 
 2 
 
 S 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 303 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 x: 
 
 «■ 
 
 '■ 
 
 3 
 C 
 
 i 
 
 'm 
 
 2 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 1 
 
 
 6 
 
 z; 
 
 T 
 
 E^ 
 
 i 
 
 ■rt 
 
 "3 
 
 'J2 
 
 2H' 
 
 Standing Jib Guy Tackle - 
 
 D 
 
 r2 
 
 39 
 
 do. do. 
 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 
 Tra veiling Jib Guy Tackle, 
 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 do. do. 
 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 Jib Stay Tackle, 
 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 33 
 
 Jib Stay Tackle, 
 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 34 
 
 do. Sheets In clew of Sail, 
 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 35 
 
 Jib boom heel ropes on Cap, 
 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 36 
 
 Heel rope Tackle fur Jib Boom, 
 
 
 (1 
 
 D 
 
 1-. 
 
 13 
 
 37 
 
 do, do. 
 
 
 <i 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 Jib Halyards in head of Sail, 
 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 39 
 
 do. T. Mt. Trussle Trees, Iron bound. 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 ^ BowspriL 
 
 - 
 
 40 
 41 
 42 
 
 Spritsail Lifts on the Yard Arm, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 do. on Bowsprit, 
 
 2 
 
 C( 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 43 
 
 do. Brace on the Fore Stay, 
 
 4 
 
 \ 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 
 Fore Top Bowline, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 45 
 
 Fore Bowline, - _ - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 46 
 
 Fore Topmast Staysail Downhaul, 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 47 
 
 do. do. lialyards in head of Sail. 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 48 
 
 do. do. do. on the F. T. M. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Trussle Trees, Iron bound. 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 49 
 
 do. do. Sheets in clew of sail, 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 50 
 
 Fore Storm Staysail Stay on the Bow- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sprit, B. S. - 
 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 14 
 
 38 
 
 51 
 
 do. do. do. Downhaul, 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 52 
 
 Fore Staysail Halyards in head of sail. 
 
 
 « 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 53 
 
 do. do. on Trussle Trees, 
 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 64 
 
 do. do. Sheets in clew of sails, 
 
 2 
 
 <( 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Fore Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 55 
 
 Runners for Topmast, B. S. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 17 
 
 30 
 
 56 
 
 Tackles for do. 
 
 ! 
 
 2 
 
 D 
 
 
 16 
 
 57 
 
 do. do. - - - 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 [- 
 
 16-i 
 
 58 
 
 Fore Truss Tackles, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 |/ 
 
 13 
 
 59 
 
 do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
304 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 60 Fore Jeer Runner, B. S. 
 
 61 do. Tackle, 
 
 62 Leaders for do, - 
 
 63 auarter Blocks on Fore Yard, B. S. 
 
 64 Topsail Sheets on Yard Arm, 
 
 65 Slablineson Yard, - - . 
 
 66 Clue Garnets on Yard, 
 
 67 do. on Clew of Sai^, 
 
 68 Buntlines on Fore Yard, 
 
 69 do. under Top, 
 
 70 Fore Buntlines, 
 
 71 Fore Leechlines on Yard, 
 
 72 do. under Top, 
 
 73 Fore Leechlines, 
 
 74 A.fter do. on Fore Yard, 
 
 75 do. do. leading under Top, 
 
 76 After Leechlines, - - _ 
 
 77 Fore Yard 'I'ackle, - - ' 
 
 78 do. do. - - 
 
 79 do. do. Leaders, 
 
 80 Bill and Cluarter Tricing Lines, 
 
 81 Fore Brail on Yard Arm, 
 
 82 do. leading on M. Trussle trees, 
 
 83 Preventer Braces on Yard Arms, - < 
 
 84 Leading do. on Bowsprit, 
 
 85 Fore Lifts on Cap span, 
 
 86 do. do. on Yard Arm, 
 
 87 do. do. on Jigger Tackle, - 
 
 88 do. do. do. do. 
 
 89 Clew Jiggers," - - - 
 
 90 Bunt Jiggers, - - - - 
 
 91 do. do. - 
 
 92 Fore Reef Tackle on yard, double scored 
 
 93 do. do. on Leech of sails, 
 
 94 Bumpkin Blocks. Fore Tack, B. S. - 
 
 95 Fore Tacks on Clew of sail, B. S. - 
 
 96 Fore sheet on do. do. B. S. - 
 
 97 Swinging Boom Topping Lifts, 
 
 98 do. do. do. Whips, - 
 
 99 Pendants for outer Siud. sail Halyds. 
 100 Outer Stud, sail Halyards, on Boom. 
 
 lOllInner 
 
 do 
 
 do. 
 
 Yard, 
 
 20 18 
 12 18 
 
 8 13 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 305 
 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 105 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 109 
 110 
 
 HI 
 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 lit) 
 117 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 124 
 12fS 
 126 
 127 
 128 
 129 
 130 
 131 
 132 
 133 
 134 
 135 
 136 
 187 
 138 
 139 
 
 Leading do. do. on duarter, 
 
 Pricing Lines, _ - - 
 
 Lower. Studding sail Downhaul, 
 Swinging Boom Brails, 
 
 do. After Guys, 
 
 do. Forward do. 
 Leading do. on Spritsail yd. • 
 Studding sail Tacks, on Boom end, - 
 I'ricing Lines for Sid. sail Gear, 
 
 Fore Topmast and Yard. 
 
 Top Block B. S. iron bound - 
 
 Top Tackle, - - - - 
 
 Leaders, for do. ■ - 
 Fore Top Burton, , - 
 
 do. do. do. . - - 
 
 do. do. Runners, - - - 
 
 F. T. Mt. B. Backstays, turned in, - 
 
 do. do. do. iron bound, 
 
 Travelling Bk. Stays, 
 
 do. do. do. iron bound, - 
 Gin Blocks, Topftail Ties, B. S,. - 
 Topsail ties on yard, B. S. - 
 
 Fore Topsail Halliards, (Fly)B. S. - 
 do. do. do. B. S. - 
 
 Leaders for do. B. S. - 
 
 'Fore Top sail Brace on yard, 
 Fore Topsail Brace on Collar of M. Stay 
 do. do under M. Trussle trees 
 Reef Tackle and Lifts, B. S. 
 Leaders in Fore Top for Topsail Lifts, 
 Fore Topsail Lift Jiggers, 
 
 do. do, 
 
 Downhaul Tackles, 
 
 do. do. 
 
 duarter Blocks on Topsail Yard, 
 Clewlines in Topsail, 
 Rolling Tackles, 
 
 (Jo. do. " - - 
 
 Fore Topsail BuntUne at Mast bead, 
 
 26* 
 
 D 
 
 20 
 
 S 
 
 •20 
 
 Fiddle. 
 
 20 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 D 
 
 15 
 
 Tripple. 
 
 15 
 
 D 
 
 15 
 
 Tripple. 
 
 15 
 
 S 
 
 18 
 
 S 
 
 19 
 
 D 
 
 22 
 
 S 
 
 22 
 
 S 
 
 22 
 
 S 
 
 n 
 
 s 
 
 14 
 
 s 
 
 15 
 
 Sister. 
 
 24 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 S 
 
 11 
 
 D 
 
 13 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 S 
 
 11 
 
 S 
 
 112 
 
 22 36 
 20 
 •30 
 U 
 
 a 
 
 17 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 25 
 25 
 16 
 16 
 16 
 17 
 17 
 17 
 22 
 22 
 10 
 10 
 13 
 13 
 17 
 17 
 13 
 13 
 14 
 
306 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 03 
 
 oS 
 
 
 s 
 s 
 o 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 c 
 
 9 
 
 .s 
 
 1 
 
 140 
 
 Fore Topsail Buntline on yard, 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 141 
 
 Reef Tackles, 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 142 
 
 do. on Leach of the sail. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 143 
 
 Sheets in Clew of Sail, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 23 
 
 144 
 
 Leech ropes on Topsail tie, 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 145 
 
 Fore Topsail Buntline Whips, 
 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 n 
 
 146 
 
 do. do. do. * - 
 
 
 i( 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 147 
 
 Clew Jiggers, ... 
 
 
 <( 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 148 
 
 Out Rigger in Fore Top, 
 
 
 «' 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 149 
 
 do. do. 
 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 
 Fore Top Gallant Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 150 
 
 Span at Cap for Studding Sail Halyards, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 IT 
 
 151 
 
 Jewell Blocks on Yard Arm, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 152 
 
 Studding Sail Tacks on Boom, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 153 
 
 Boom Brace Pendants, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 154 
 
 Leaders for Boom braces on Main Rig. 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 155 
 
 Downhaul for Top Mast Studding Sail, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 156 
 
 Boom J igger in and out, 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 157 
 
 do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 158 
 
 Leaders for do. in Bunt of Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 159 
 
 Tricing Boom Tackle under Top, 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 160 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 161 
 
 Top Gallant Mast Tack, 
 
 1 
 
 
 D 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 162 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 
 S 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 163 
 
 Jigger Tackle for Top Gallant Rigging, 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 164 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 
 S 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 165 
 
 Top Gallant breast back Stay, turned in. 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 166 
 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 167 
 
 do. Stay Tackles, 
 
 1 
 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 168 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 
 S 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 169 
 
 Jack Blocks, ... 
 
 1 
 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 22 
 
 170 
 
 Top Gallant Halyards, 
 
 1 
 
 
 D 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 171 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 
 S 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 172 
 
 do. Braces on Yard Arm, 
 
 2 
 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 173 Leading do. on Main Topmast Stay, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 7i 
 
 11 
 
 174 
 
 do. under Trussle Trees, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 H 
 
 11 
 
 175 
 
 Top Gallant Lifts, 
 
 2 
 
 
 Sister, 
 
 IH 
 
 16 
 
 176 
 
 do. do. leading in Top, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 177 
 
 do. Lift Jigger, 
 
 2 
 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT 
 
 307 
 
 
 
 
 
 ta 
 
 OB 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 c 
 
 02 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 17c 
 
 do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 179 
 
 Top Block, Iron bound, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 22 
 
 180 
 
 Top Gallant Sheet on Yard Arm, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s ■ 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 181 
 
 Cluarter Blocks, . . _ 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 182 
 
 Top Gallant Buntlines. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 Sh 
 
 10 
 
 183 
 
 Spare Top Gall't. Studding Sail Halyards, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 t 
 
 12 
 
 184 
 
 Jewell Blocks, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 Sh 
 
 12 
 
 185 
 
 Studding Sail Tacks, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 186 
 
 Tricing Lines, - . _ 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 
 Fore Royal Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 187 
 
 Fore Royal Breast Back Stays, turned in, 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 188 
 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 189 
 
 Stay Tackle, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 190 
 
 Leading Royal brace on Top Gallant stay, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 6h 
 
 10 
 
 191 
 
 do. do. do. at Mast head, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 6i 
 
 10 
 
 192 
 
 Cluarter Blocks, . _ _ 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 "2 
 
 6^ 
 
 9 
 
 193 
 
 Royal Buntlines, 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 s - 
 
 "2 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 194 
 
 Spare do. Studding Sail Halyards, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 19^ 
 
 Jewell Blocks, 
 
 2 
 
 
 s 
 
 f 
 
 9 
 
 190 
 
 Studding Tacks on Boom, 
 
 2 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 s 
 
 6 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 
 Main Mast and Yard. 
 
 30 
 
 197 
 
 Runners for Main Mast, B. S, 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 D 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 198 
 
 Tackles for do. 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 199 
 
 do. do. - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 200 
 
 Main Truss Tackles, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 201 
 
 do. do. 
 
 (( 
 
 '. 
 
 (( 
 
 
 (( 
 
 202 
 
 Jeer Runners, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 22 
 
 35 
 
 203 
 
 Jeer Tackles, ... 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 22 
 
 24 
 
 204 
 
 Leaders fordo, - . . 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 22 
 
 24 
 
 205 
 
 Cluarter Blocks on Main Yard, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 206 
 
 Topsail Sheets on Yard, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 207 
 
 Slab Lines on do. 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 208 
 
 Clew Garnets on do. 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 s 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 20(1 
 
 do. in Clew of Sail, 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 U 
 
 17 
 
 21C 
 
 Buntlines on Main Yard, 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
308 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 
 
 (B 
 
 <a 
 
 
 c 
 
 6 
 Z 
 
 4 
 
 c5 
 a. 
 
 1 
 
 £ 
 
 C 
 
 c 
 
 m 
 ~9 
 
 5 
 
 o 
 
 211, do. under Top, 
 
 D 
 
 13 
 
 212 
 
 Main Bantlines, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Shoe. 
 
 9 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 213 
 
 Lepchlines on Yard, 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 214 
 
 do under Top, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 215 
 
 Main Leechlines, . - - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Shoe. 
 
 c 
 
 13 
 
 216 
 
 After do. on Main Yard, 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 217 
 
 do. under Top, - . - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 218 
 
 After Leechlines, . . - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Shoe. 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 219 
 
 Main Yard Tackle, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Fiddle. 
 
 33 
 
 17 
 
 220 
 
 do. do. - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 221 
 
 do. Leaders, - - - 
 
 2 
 
 ' 
 
 S 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 222 
 
 Bill and Cluarter Tricing Lines, 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 223 
 
 Main Brace on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 22 
 
 20 
 
 224 
 
 Leading Main Braces, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 22 
 
 20 
 
 225 
 
 Preventer Main Braces on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 »' 
 
 S 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 22ti 
 
 Leading Preventer Main Braces on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 •' 
 
 S 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 227 
 
 Main Lifts on Cap, (span) 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 228 
 
 do. on Y^ard Arm, - 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 229 
 
 Main Jigger Tackle, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 IQ 
 
 11 
 
 230 
 
 do. dc. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 231 
 
 Main Clew Tackle, 
 
 4 
 
 " 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 232 
 
 do. Bunt do. 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 233 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 234 
 
 do. Reef Tackle on Yard, D Scored, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 235 
 
 do. do. ii. leech of sail. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 236 
 
 Main Tack on Gangway, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 •' 
 
 s 
 
 16^23 
 
 237 
 
 do. in Clew of sail, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 16|23 
 
 238 
 
 Main Sheets in do. B S. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 16 23 
 
 239 
 
 Runners for Main Bowline Bridle, 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 1113 
 
 240 
 
 Tackles for do. 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 1113 
 
 241 
 
 Tricing Lines for Studding sail Gear, 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 8111 
 
 242 
 
 Main tJtaysdil Stay on Foremast, - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 14|28 
 
 243 
 
 Storm Staysail Halyards in Col. of Stay, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 244 
 
 do. ' do. in heavy Sail, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 245 
 
 do. do. Downhaul, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 1213 
 
 246 
 
 do. Sheets, 
 
 2 
 
 '• 
 
 D 
 
 1613 
 
 247 
 
 Runner for Jumper on Main Stay, - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 916 
 
 24d 
 
 Tackle for do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 D 
 
 911 
 
 249 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 911 
 
 250 
 
 Fore Stay Tackle, - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 17,17 
 
 251 
 
 do. do. - - - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 1717 
 
 252 
 
 Leader for do. . - . 
 
 1 
 
 
 s 
 
 1717 
 
 253 
 
 Mam Stay Tackle 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 n 
 
 17 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 309 
 
 254 Main Stay Tackie, 
 
 255 Leader for do. 
 
 256 
 257 
 
 258 
 259 
 260 
 261 
 262 
 263 
 264 
 265 
 266 
 267 
 268 
 269 
 270 
 271 
 27-2 
 273 
 274 
 275 
 276 
 277 
 278 
 279 
 280 
 281 
 282 
 283 
 284 
 285 
 286 
 287 
 28S 
 289 
 290 
 291 
 
 Main Topmast and Yard. 
 
 Top Block, Iron bound,' B. S. 
 Top Tackle, 
 
 Leaders for do. - - - 
 
 Main Top Burton, 
 
 do. do. - 
 do. Runners, 
 Main T. M. Breast Back Stay turned in, 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 do. Travelling turned in, 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 Main Top Mast Stay, B. S. 
 
 do. Spring Stay, B S. - 
 
 Gin Block for Topsail Tye, B. S. - 
 Topsail Tye on Yard, B. S. 
 Topsail Halyards, (Fly) B. S. 
 do. do. B. S. 
 
 Leader for Topsail Halyards, B. S. 
 Main Topsail Bract; on Yard, 
 do. leading on Collar of Mizen Stay, 
 do. Span on Mizen Mast, 
 do. Lifts and Reef Tackles, B. S. 
 do. Lift Leaders, 
 do. Lift Jiggers, 
 do. Downhavil Tackle, 
 Main Top sail Downhaul Tackle, 
 Gluarter Block on Yard, 
 Clewline in Sail, _ . - 
 
 Rolling Tackle, 
 
 do. do. - - - 
 
 Main Topsail Buntlines, Mast head, 
 
 do. d'>. leading on Yard, 
 
 Reef Tackle Whips in Pendants, 
 
 do. in leech of sail, 
 Top?tiil sheets in Clew of sail, B. S, 
 Leech Ropes on Topsail Tye, 
 Main Topsail Bunt Whips, 
 
 6 
 
 
 3 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
 EU 
 
 O 
 
 Til 
 
 Z 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 (1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 
 2 
 
 ] 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 <( 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 «' 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 t( 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 Fiddle. 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 Tripple. 
 
 D 
 Tripple. 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 
 Sister. 
 S 
 D 
 S 
 D 
 D 
 S 
 D 
 S 
 S 
 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 36 
 26 
 20 
 11 
 11 
 18 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 14 
 36 
 39 
 27 
 27 
 16 
 16 
 16 
 18 
 18 
 18 
 23 
 23 
 10 
 10 
 13 
 17 
 17 
 13 
 13 
 14 
 14 
 13 
 13 
 23 
 lO 
 12 
 
310 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 292 do. do. 
 
 293 M ain Top Bowline in Fore Top 
 
 294 Clew Jiggers, 
 
 295 Outrigger in Main Top, 
 206 do. do. 
 
 297 Staysail Halyards, at Mast head, iron b'd 
 
 298 do. in head of Sail, 
 
 299 Staysail Downhaul, 
 
 300 do. Brails, - - - 
 
 301 do. Sheets in pendants, 
 
 302 Middle Staysail Tricing Lines, 
 
 303 do. Halyards, iron bound, 
 
 304 do. Downhaul, 
 
 305 Spar for Studding Sail Halyards, - 
 
 306 Jewell Blocks, 
 
 307 Studding Sail Tacks on Boom, 
 
 308 do. Downhaul, 
 
 309 Boom Jigger in and out, 
 
 310 do. do. 
 
 311 Leaders for do. 
 
 312 Tricing Boom Jigger, 
 
 313 do. do. 
 
 Main Top Gallant Mast and Yard. 
 
 314 Top Block, {iron bound) 
 
 315 Mast Tackle, 
 
 316 do. do. - 
 
 317 Jigger for Top Gallant rigging, 
 
 318 do. do. do. do. 
 
 319 Breast Backstays, turned in, 
 
 320 do. do. iron bound, 
 
 321 do. do. Stay tackle, 
 
 322 do. do. do. 
 
 32H Jack Block for Top Gallant yard, - 
 
 324 Top Gallant Halyards, 
 
 325 do. do. - 
 
 326 do. brace on yard, 
 
 327 Leading do. on Collar of Miz. T. Gt. 
 
 Slay, - - - 
 
 328 do. do. at Mast Heod, 
 
 S 
 S 
 S 
 D 
 S 
 S 
 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 s 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 22 
 13 
 13 
 9 
 9 
 11 
 11 
 12 
 12 
 22 
 13 
 13 
 12 
 
 12 
 13 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 311 
 
 6•^b 
 330 
 331 
 332 
 333 
 334 
 335 
 336 
 
 337 
 338 
 339 
 340 
 341 
 342 
 343 
 344 
 345 
 346 
 347 
 
 348 
 34J^ 
 350 
 351 
 352 
 353 
 354 
 355 
 356 
 357 
 358 
 359 
 360 
 
 361 
 
 lop Gallant JLitis, B. S. 
 Leaders for do. - - _ 
 
 Lift Jigger, - - - - 
 
 do. do. -■ . - 
 
 Sheets on Yard arm, B S. - 
 
 Ctuarter Blocks on Top Gallant Yard, 
 
 Top Gallant Buntlines, 
 
 Leading Main Top Gallant Stay & Bow- 
 lines through chock, 1 Chock, 
 
 At Fore Top Mast Crosstrees, 
 
 Lower Top Gal't Staysail Tricing Lines, 
 do. do. Halyards at Mast head; 
 do. do. Downhaul, 
 
 Upper Top Gallant Staysail Tricing lines 
 do. do. Halyards at Mast head, 
 do. do. Downhaul, 
 
 Spare Top Gal't Studding Sail Halyards 
 
 Jewel Blocks on Yard Arm, 
 
 Studding Sail Tacks on Boom, 
 do. Tricing Lines, 
 
 Main Royal Mast and Yard. 
 
 Main Royal Backstay, turned in, 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 do. Stay, 
 
 do. Brace or Mizen T. Gal't Stay 
 do. do. at Mast head, 
 Gluarter Block on Yard, 
 R-oyal Buntlines, _ . - 
 
 do. Bowlines, - - - 
 
 do. tStaysail Tricing Line, 
 do. do, Downhaul, 
 Spare Royal Studding Sail Halyards, 
 do. dor Jewel Blocks, 
 
 do. do. Tacks on Boom, 
 
 Mizen Mast. 
 Mizen Pendant Tackles, 
 
312 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 362 Mizen Pendant Tackles, 
 
 363 Cross Jack Truss Tackle, - 
 
 364 do. do. 
 
 365 Cluarter Block on Cross Jack Yard, B. S 
 
 366 Topsail Sheets on Yard Arm, B. S. 
 361 Cross Jack Brace on yard, 
 
 368 do. do. Leaders, 
 
 369 Spare Cross Jack Lifts, 
 
 370 do. do. on Yard, 
 
 371 Lift Jiggers, . . . 
 
 372 do. - - - - 
 
 373 Mizen Staysail Stay under Miz. Top, B.S 
 
 374 do. Stay Tackle, 
 
 375 do. do. 
 
 376 Tricing Tackle for Miz. Stay at Miz. mst 
 
 377 do. do. 
 
 378 Staysail Halyards on Collar of Miz. stay, 
 
 379 do. in head of sail, 
 
 380 Mizen Staysail Downhaul, 
 
 381 do Brails, 
 
 38'2 Storm Staysail Hal} ai-ds on Collar of stay, 
 
 383 do. do. in head of sail, 
 
 384 do. Downhaul, 
 
 385 
 
 336 
 
 38 
 
 388 
 
 389 
 
 390 
 
 391 
 
 392 
 
 393 
 94 
 
 Spanker Boom. 
 
 Spanker Topping Lift under Mizen Trus 
 
 sle Trees, B. S. 
 
 do. Boom Runner, 
 
 do. Topping Lift Tackle, 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 do. Guy do. 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 Crow foot for Spanker Topping Lifts, 
 Spanker Sheet, . - 
 
 Blocks on G^iff. 
 
 Mizen Vangs, 
 
 do. Leading on Cluarter, 
 
 ol2 
 
 U12 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 313 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 M 
 
 75 
 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 C 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■5 
 
 
 2 
 
 T 
 
 
 7 
 
 n 
 
 395 
 
 Spanker Peak brails, 
 
 S 
 
 U 
 
 396 
 
 do. Middle do. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 397 
 
 do. Throat do. 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 Tripple. 
 
 9 
 
 1;^ 
 
 398 
 
 do. Cluarter do. on Gaff, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 399 
 
 Spanker Foot Brails on Gaff, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 400 
 
 Peak Halyards on Gaff, 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 401 
 
 do, do. on Cap, Iron bound, 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 402 
 
 Throat Halyards on Mast, 
 
 1 
 
 .' 
 
 D 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 403 
 
 do. on Gaff, 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 404 
 
 Outhauler in Clew of Sail, - 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 17 
 
 
 Mizen Top Mast and Yard. 
 
 
 405 
 
 Top Block, Iron bound, B. S. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 406 
 
 do. Tackle, 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 407 
 
 [lolling do. - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 
 408 
 
 do. - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 « 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 
 409 
 
 Topsail Buntlines at Mast head. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Fiddle. 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 410 
 
 do. on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 411 
 
 Mizen Top Runners, 
 
 2 
 
 <i. 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 1.5 
 
 412 
 
 Breast Backstays, turned in. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 V6 
 
 13 
 
 413 
 
 do. do. Iron bound, 
 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 Vi 
 
 1:3 
 
 414 
 
 Mizen Topmast Stay, B. S. ^ 
 
 
 u 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 25 
 
 415 
 
 do Spring do. B. S. 
 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 \) 
 
 25 
 
 416 
 
 Gin Blocks Topsail Tye, B. S. 
 
 
 <« 
 
 s 
 
 13 
 
 25 
 
 417 
 
 Topsail Tye on Yard, B. S. 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 15 
 
 25 
 
 418 
 
 do. Halyards Fly, 
 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 16 
 
 U 
 
 419 
 
 do. [• 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 420 
 
 do. Leader, 
 
 
 fj 
 
 s 
 
 16 
 
 U 
 
 421 
 
 Mizen Top Sail Brace on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 il 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 422 
 
 Leadins: do. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 423 
 
 Topsail Lifts, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 424 
 
 do. do. ... 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 425 
 
 do. Jigger, 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 426 
 
 do. do. - - - 
 
 2 
 
 '( 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 427 
 
 Down haul Tackles, 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 428 
 
 do. do. - 
 
 1 
 
 « 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 429 
 
 (Quarter Blocks on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 430 
 
 Olewline in Sail, - - - 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 431 
 
 Rolling Tackle, 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 432 
 
 do. do. - - - 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 27 
 
314 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 
 6 
 
 12; 
 2 
 
 'Ji 
 
 b 
 
 xi 
 
 .s 
 
 e 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 t 
 
 433 
 
 T opsail Buntlines at Mast head, ^ - 
 
 1 
 
 -s 
 
 11 
 
 434 
 
 do do. on Yard, 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 435 
 
 Reef Tackles, Whips on Pendants, 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 n 
 
 11 
 
 436 
 
 do, do. in leech of Sail, 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 7i 
 
 11 
 
 437 
 
 Topsail Sheets in Clew of Sail, 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 438 
 
 Leech Ropes on Topsail Tyes, 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 439 
 
 Mizen Topsail Bunt Whips, 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 440 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 << 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 441 
 
 do. Bowlines, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 442 
 
 do. Clew Jiggers, 
 
 4 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 443 
 
 Out Rigger in Mizen Top, 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 D 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 444 
 
 do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 
 Leading Various Rigging on Mizen 
 
 
 
 Mast and Quarter Deck. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 445 
 
 Leading Mizen Topsail Clewlines, 
 
 2 
 
 t< 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 446 
 
 do. Buntlines, 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 447 
 
 do. Reef Tackles. 
 
 2 
 
 t« 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 448 
 
 Top Gallant Sheets, 
 
 2 
 
 i( 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 449 
 
 Royal Halyards, 
 
 2 
 
 u 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 a 
 
 450 
 
 Top Gallant do. 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 451 
 
 Topmast Staysail do. 
 
 1 
 
 (( 
 
 s 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 452 
 
 Peak and Middle brails of Spanker, 
 
 2 
 
 (C 
 
 D 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 453 
 
 Throat do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 « 
 
 s 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 454 
 
 Foot and Ctuarter do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 D 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 455 
 
 Mizen Topsail Sheets, 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 456 
 
 duarter Boats Tackles, 
 
 4 
 
 u 
 
 D 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 457 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 4 
 
 <( 
 
 S 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 458 
 
 Stern dd. do. 
 
 2 
 
 <( 
 
 D 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 459 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 2 
 
 « 
 
 S 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 460 
 
 Leaders for duarter Boats Tackles, 
 
 4 
 
 « 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 461 
 
 Leading Blocks on Mizen Fife Rail, D. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 scored, - 
 
 10 
 
 a 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 
 Miscellaneous Blocks. 
 
 
 462 
 
 Top Girtlines, 
 
 4 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 17 
 
 32 
 
 463 
 
 Mast head Girtlines F. M. «& Miz. mast, 
 
 12 
 
 (( 
 
 S 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 315 
 
 464 LufF Tackle tor setting up Lower rigging, 
 
 465 do. do. do. 
 
 466 Tricing Lines for Luffs on lower Rigging 
 
 and Stays, . - . 
 
 467 Stopper Tackles on Fighting Luffs, 
 
 468 Fish Tackle on Davit head D. scored, B.S. 
 
 469 do. on Fish hook Fall, 
 
 470 do. leading on Davit head, B. S. 
 
 471 do. in Pendants on Gangway, 
 
 472 Tripping line for Fish Hook, 
 
 473 Davit Guy Tackle forward, 
 
 474 do. do. - 
 
 475 do. do. aft, 
 
 476 do. do. - 
 
 477 Cat Tackle at Davit head, 
 
 478 do. Blocks, B. S. Iron bound. 
 
 479 Leader for do. B. S. 
 
 480 Back Rope for do. - 
 
 481 Main Yard Whips, 
 
 482 do. do. do. for Stay, 
 
 483 do. do- do. for Swabs, 
 
 484 Hammock and Clothes Lines, 
 
 485 Purchase Blocks, B. S. 
 
 486 do. do. B. S. 
 
 487 Leader on Viol Block, B. S. 
 486 Deck or Winding Tackle, - 
 
 489 do. do. - 
 
 490 Relieving Tackle for Tiller, 
 
 491 do. do. 
 
 492 Blocks for Awnings, 
 
 493 Whips for Crowfoot, 
 494Tackles for Ridge Ropes, - 
 
 495 Windsail Halyards, 
 
 496 Jigeer Tackles, 
 
 497 ^^do. .... 
 49b do. ... - 
 499 do. - - - - 
 
 Snatch Blocks. 
 
 1 Snatch Biocks, 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 D 
 D 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 s 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 Treble. 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 Treble. 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 s 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 S 
 
316 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 
 
 01 
 
 ai 
 
 
 
 
 a> 
 
 Si 
 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 j3 
 
 S 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 a. 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 02 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 ^; 
 
 
 .2 
 
 is 
 
 . 
 
 "6 
 
 - 
 
 
 m 
 
 2 
 
 Snatch Block, .... 
 
 U 
 
 3 
 
 do. - - . _ 
 
 7 
 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 do. .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 do. - - . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 6 
 
 do. .... 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 do. .... 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 23 
 
 8 
 
 do. . - . . 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 24 
 
 9 
 
 do. . - - . 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 26 
 
 10 
 
 do. .... 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 28 
 
 11 
 
 do. . - - . 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 la 
 
 do. B, S 
 
 
 
 34 
 
 32 
 
 n 
 
 do- B. S. - 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 34 
 
 14 
 
 do. B. S. -■ - 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 38 
 
 15 
 
 do. .... 
 
 2 
 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 do. - - - - 
 
 2 
 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 do. 
 
 2 
 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 
 Dead Eyes. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Cap Bobstay, - - . - - 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 Outer Bowsprit Shrouds, 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 Inner do. . . . - 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 Fore Shrouds, . - - - 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 do. .... 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 Beniick Shrouds, - _ - - 
 
 2 
 
 (( 
 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 do. .... 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 Fore Topmast Shrouds, 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 do. do. ... 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 do: do. B. Stay, 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 do. do. . . - 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 do. Stay, .... 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 do. do. . - - - 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 do. Spring Stay, ... 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 do. do. ... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 F. T. Gallant Back Stay, 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
 do. do. ... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Fore Royal do. ... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 do. do. ... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 Main Shrouds, .... 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 
 17 
 
 21 
 
 do. .... 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 
 17 
 
YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 
 
 317 
 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 41 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 
 Bentick Shrouds, 
 
 do. 
 Main Topmast Shrouds, 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 Backstay, 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Stay, 
 do. 
 
 Main T. Gt. Backstay, 
 do. do. 
 
 do. Royal, 
 
 do. do. 
 
 Mizen Shroud?, 
 
 do. 
 Mizen Topmast, 
 
 do. 
 Mizen Backstays, 
 do. do. 
 
 do. Topgallant Backstay, 
 do. do. 
 
 Mizen Royal Stay, 
 do. do. 
 
 Hearts. 
 
 Outer Bobstay, 
 
 Inner do. 
 
 Upper F. Spring Stay, 
 
 Lower do. 
 
 Upper Fore Stay, 
 
 Lower do. 
 
 Upper Main Stay, 
 
 Lower do. 
 
 Upper Main Spring Stay, 
 
 Lower do. 
 
 Preventer Gammoning, 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 U 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 15 
 20 
 24 
 24 
 28 
 28 
 28 
 24 
 23 
 
 In 
 
 2r 
 
318 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 69. Miscellaneous Articles. 
 
 Leading Trucks lor various Rigging on L Shrouds 
 
 do. do. do. 
 
 Serving Mallets, assorted from 6 to 10 inches, 
 
 Settling Fids, do. 
 
 Splicing Fids, do. 
 
 Commanders, 
 
 Heavers, 
 
 Serving Boards, 
 
 Hand Spikes, 
 
 Stand for Coils of spun Yarn, 
 
 Reels for Stretching, 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 \o. in use. 
 
 Folds. 
 
 30 
 
 D 
 
 6 
 
 S 
 
 48 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 36 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 70. 
 
 Anchors. 
 
 
 Starboard Bower Anchor 
 
 
 8627 
 
 ( 
 
 lo. do. 
 
 
 91*75 
 
 Larboard Bovjrer, 
 
 . •= - 
 
 8427 
 
 do. 
 
 Sheet, 
 
 - 
 
 8700 
 
 Stream Anchor, 
 
 - ' 
 
 - ' 2272 
 
 No. 1- 
 
 -Kedge Anchor, 
 
 . 
 
 1117 
 
 No.2. 
 
 do. 
 
 - 
 
 800 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 do. 
 
 - - 
 
 675 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 do. 
 
 _ 
 
 500 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 do. 
 
 _ 
 
 410 
 
 Boats 
 
 do. 
 
 _ 
 
 100 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 ., 
 
 125 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 - 
 
 175 
 
 71. Distances from Spar Deck of JJ, S. Ship North 
 Carolina. 
 
 From Night Heads to Bowsprit Cap, - 53 feet, 
 
 do. do. to Jib Boom, - - 91 " 
 
 do. do. to Flying Jib Boom, - 109 " 
 
 do. do. to Jib of Jib Truck, - 128 " 
 

 YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 From Spar Deck to Fore Cap, 
 
 ,iy 
 
 do. 
 
 toF. 
 
 T. M;Cap, - 
 
 122 i 
 
 do. 
 
 toF. 
 
 T. Gt. Cap, - 
 
 145* 
 
 do. 
 
 toF. 
 
 Cap, 
 
 170i 
 
 do. 
 
 toF. 
 
 Skysail Truck, 
 
 1871 
 
 do. 
 
 to Main Cap, 
 
 90 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 T. M.Cap, 
 
 141 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 T. Gt. Cap, 
 
 166 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Royal Cap, 
 
 193i 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Skysail Truck, 
 
 21U 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Mizen Cap, 
 
 75i 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. T.M. Cap, 
 
 116 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. T. Gt. Cap, 
 
 136 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. Royal Cap, 
 
 158 
 
 -' do. 
 
 do. 
 
 do. Skysail Truck, 
 
 173 
 
 ,ngth on Spar Deck, 
 
 - 
 
 209 
 
 319 
 
320 
 
 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 
 CO 
 
 1—1 
 
 
 8 
 
 .1 
 
 7? 
 
 TS 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 < 
 
 J 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 'S 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 f^ o t^ »» «o 
 
 00 •>© rj* o a> 
 
 [X (N O' 
 
 o cj M CO (N 
 
 -Jl"'— t^-TTMCDS i T^^-^O 
 
 ■<T'-!ao<MaocN(NO 
 
 ■^OOCOO-^rriAocOMC^C^C^—iCO OC50COO 
 
 
 s 
 
 ^= 
 
 «o T^t^ ^ 
 
 lo <x> ec rt — 
 
 CO .-I eo CM 
 
 3 
 
 r 
 
 t- 
 
 i> 
 
 i 
 
 1— ZD 
 
 - -^ oo 
 
 aio<a3i^O'*T3<coi-- 
 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 g 
 
 SS 
 
 >.s 
 
 o- 
 
 TjiXOTfC-OOCD'^ 
 
 ^ Tji r^ O 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 00 
 
 i-< 
 
 ::-*w-:il>'<^i^: 
 
 ==g^; 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 x>r-= <T.-. ir5t-i>ofcc^i>c«c<^vr5CDinoin(M 
 
 .= 
 
 l^'>^-2-2-::^^-^^'*"'--^^g§S;g5 
 
 CD ~ as QC (75 QO 
 
 s . ?o r? 00 ro Oi (N X vn Oi d — r- Tti oi <o o t- "^ 00 o 
 
 
 s£ 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 
 
 321 
 
 
 ODZ -:::::: w :; :: aj -^ -^ t^ vo u^ -"^ (M (M -^ ^ •-<'-'•-< - - '^ 
 
 K^ . . . ^ 
 
 2 :: 00 ■<* - ^00 :: o c^ Ci :: 
 
 i-iMi-Hs <N t-* - 00 o - (yj kn - 
 
 ■^c<»oooaiX«3«niO'^a5GOTrio-^^oa>i^'X>'0-<5<'*-^cO(>j, 
 
 tDJ>ioco-^oo-- ot^ — orofO"^ — T^kn-^co:: l^c?u o-^oj 
 
 ia>= = 
 
 - g «o o »-< <vo :: oi ;o co o c» o (?j ph - osoo: 
 <1 "" 
 
 in -* ex 50 «C Tjl (N (M F-< I-H ^ ,-1 ,-1 ,-4 - - 
 
 c^QO-^aoF-ic^cotx><'-i- t^(N- ;: a5Tj<<M(Ni^coo-^»o<^:: 
 
 OCBI>0»OOr}<eO-^. 
 
 t^eos (MtOQO:: o "Xi to oo oo 00 to Tf< oo cj M ?o ?o o -^ ■<* oo lo 
 
 ift:: s :: 
 
 ^ 
 
 - = 
 
 - 
 
 CO 
 
 i: F «£> o (^J -^ (N »-< oc Tfi o 05 1> CO (N :: o Tt< - 
 <i - ^ ^ ^ 
 
 p. = = 
 
 :: 
 
 :: ^ 
 
 - 
 
 :: J3 o Tt* CO to o "* <N <yj -H r-i r-i 
 >• 
 
 • 
 
 i-H 1-1 rH ^ t^ - 
 
 ^l^-'tCO 
 
 
 i-HQOT^t'C^xf:iC^i-H'^rJ<^00><;t"'>^Q03 
 
 U5 (N «C J> -"^ - 
 
 «>Tf<CO o 
 
 
 or-»>coin'*c<»J>oo<x)fo-Hoa)i--i- 
 
 o o T}i CO rj< :: 
 
 «5 5 r-C^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ - 
 
 ^ 
 
 2 s i ;: ^«£)Oo«oo«Dc co 
 
 3 -<^ OOO CO Ol 
 
 «0 CO CO JJ5 CO CM CQ 
 
 s 
 
 toooacc^cvJcoaorNcDr'O^ocoocr.covft 
 Tfi'^r-iaiOOOoi^tnin'^cococoeocNCQr-^ixx) 
 
 to nj 
 
 
 f^. - - 
 
 O ■— 1 w iJ ed • 
 
 ^ M K. cdj?. 
 
 .ft? 
 
 
 SS 
 
 S-§-i.|p- 
 
 
 o 
 
 a; <u C 
 
 
 
 OS 
 
 I£g 
 
 -I 
 
 o- o 
 
 02 PQ 
 
322 
 
 KBDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 ^■4 
 
 . Scale 
 
 of Weights for 
 
 Cables and Hawsers. 
 
 Size. 
 
 fms 
 
 wght. 
 
 Size. 
 
 1 fms, 
 
 wgbt. 
 
 Isize. 
 
 1 fms |wghf.|Size. 1 fms.jwhgt. I 
 
 5 
 
 120 
 
 700 
 
 5 
 
 lOU 
 
 559 
 
 14i 
 
 iJiO 
 
 588U 
 
 14^ 
 
 100 
 
 4900 
 
 5^ 
 
 (( 
 
 840 
 
 51 
 
 t« 
 
 700 
 
 15 
 
 
 6300 
 
 15 
 
 u 
 
 5250 
 
 6 
 
 (( 
 
 lOOS 
 
 6 
 
 <« 
 
 840 
 
 151 
 
 
 6720 
 
 151 
 
 (( 
 
 5600 
 
 S' 
 
 << 
 
 1170 
 
 61 
 
 cc 
 
 1080 
 
 16 
 
 
 7168 
 
 16 
 
 l( 
 
 5974 
 
 7 
 
 « 
 
 1372 
 
 7 
 
 (( 
 
 1144 
 
 161 
 
 
 7616 
 
 161 
 
 (( 
 
 6347 
 
 ■7^ 
 
 (( 
 
 1588 
 
 7§ 
 
 <( 
 
 1324 
 
 17 
 
 
 8092 
 
 17 
 
 " 
 
 6744 
 
 8 
 
 (( 
 
 n9-2 
 
 8 
 
 C( 
 
 1494 
 
 171 
 
 
 8568 
 
 n^ 
 
 (( 
 
 7140 
 
 8^ 
 
 i( 
 
 2016 
 
 8a 
 
 (( 
 
 1680 
 
 18 
 
 
 9072 
 
 18 
 
 (( 
 
 7560 
 
 9 
 
 (( 
 
 2268 
 
 9* 
 
 (( 
 
 1890 
 
 18i 
 
 
 9576 
 
 181 
 
 « 
 
 7980 
 
 ,^^ 
 
 " 
 
 2520 
 
 91 
 
 (( 
 
 2100 
 
 19 
 
 
 10108 
 
 19 
 
 C( 
 
 8424 
 
 10 
 
 <c 
 
 2S00 
 
 10 
 
 (( 
 
 2334 
 
 19^ 
 
 
 10640 
 
 19^ 
 
 (( 
 
 8867 
 
 lOi^ 
 
 « 
 
 3080 
 
 lOi 
 
 (( 
 
 2567 
 
 20 
 
 
 11200 
 
 20 
 
 « 
 
 9344 
 
 11 
 
 (( 
 
 3418 
 
 11 
 
 t< 
 
 2847 
 
 20i 
 
 
 11760 
 
 201 
 
 <( 
 
 9800 
 
 lU 
 
 it 
 
 3G96 
 
 IH 
 
 (( 
 
 3080 
 
 21 
 
 
 12348 
 
 21 
 
 « 
 
 10290 
 
 12 
 
 (< 
 
 4032 
 
 12 
 
 (( 
 
 3360 
 
 211 
 
 
 12936 
 
 •^u 
 
 (( 
 
 16780 
 
 I2i 
 
 (( 
 
 4365 
 
 m 
 
 " 
 
 3640 
 
 22 
 
 «< 
 
 13552 
 
 22 
 
 « 
 
 11277 
 
 13 
 
 u 
 
 4732 
 
 13 
 
 (( 
 
 3944 
 
 221 
 
 
 I4I68 
 
 221 
 
 (C 
 
 11807 
 
 ISJ 
 
 (( 
 
 5096 
 
 i:^ 
 
 « 
 
 4247 
 
 23 
 
 
 14812 
 
 23 
 
 (( 
 
 12344 
 
 14 
 
 (( 
 
 54Sb> 
 
 14 
 
 «t 
 
 4547 
 
 23 i 
 24 
 
 (( 
 
 15456 
 
 16128 
 
 231 
 24 
 
 (( 
 (1 
 
 12880 
 13440 
 
 75. 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 For Blacking ShipK^i Standing Rigging. 
 
 To every Gallon of Tar add two quarts of Fish 
 Oil, and 1 quart Black Varnish. 
 
 7^. For Blacking Guns. 
 
 Six pounds Bees Wax, mixed with 1 Gallon of 
 Spirits of Turpentine, one paper of Lampblack mix- 
 ed well together for 20 — 24 pounders. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 323 
 
 N.B. The Bees wax to be cut fine and dissolved 
 in the Turpentine before mixed with the Lampblack. 
 
 77. For Blacking Hammock Cloths^ Yards, 
 and Bends. 
 
 First scrub the cloth well with Salt Water, and 
 while wet, put on the first coat of priming, which 
 should be well ground, paint with 1^ lbs Bees wax 
 added to each gallon of paint, after the firs! coat is 
 well dry, put on second mixed as follows, viz : 
 
 1 lb Lampblack mixed for paint, 
 1 do. Red Lead, 
 IGall. Paint Oil, 
 J- lb. Litharge, 
 I oz. Indigo. 
 
 Boiled for half an hour, and stirred at intervals. Care 
 should be taken that the composition boils that 
 length of time. After it has cooled a little add one pint 
 of Spirits of Turpentine, apply when warm, and it 
 will dry in a short time with a beautiful gloss, and 
 be perfectly limber. This last mixture has been 
 found very suitable for yards and also the bends, but 
 it'must never be used too warm, particularly on Can- 
 vass in which case it will lose its gloss, the priming or 
 
324 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 
 
 first coat is not put on cloths that had been black be- 
 fore. 
 
 78. Receipt for Making Liquid Blacking. 
 
 4 oz. Ivory black, 
 
 5 or 6 Table spoons full of Molasses, 
 11 oz. Oil of Vitriol, 
 
 1^ do. Sweet oil, 
 
 6 Gills of Vinegar, 
 
 After mixing the ingredients, together well stirring 
 them frequently, the Blacking will be fit for use. 
 
 79. For Blacking Guns. 
 
 6 oz. of Lampblack, 
 3 pints of Spirits Turpen tine, 
 3 oz. of Litharge, 
 To be put in, after the Lampblack and Turpentine 
 are well mixed, add 1 oz. of Umber to give it a gloss, 
 and one Gallon brisfht Varnish. 
 
 80. Composition for Blacking Guns. 
 
 6 lbs Bees wax cut up fine, then add 7 quarts 
 Spirits Turpentine, let it stand until it is well dis- 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 325 
 
 solved, then add 1 pound Lamp black, and mix it well 
 together. 
 
 81. Recipe for making Black Varnish, 
 
 2 lbs Gum Shallach, 
 2 " of Umber, 
 1 Gallon Linseed Oil, 
 f lb of Lampblack, 
 Boiled together for four hours over a slow fire. 
 
 82* Compositio7i for Blacking Hammock Cloths j 
 No 1. 
 
 Bees wax, - - - - 20 lbs. 
 
 Rosin, - - - .- 4 do. 
 
 Sprits Turpentine, - - 2 Galls. 
 
 Paint Oil - . - . 1 do. 
 
 Lampblack, - - - - 6 lbs. 
 Boil them well together and keep it warm while put- 
 ing on. N. B. To be primed first with lead colored 
 paint. 
 
 83. Composition for Hammock Cloths^ No 2. 
 
 Yellow Ochre, - - - 48 lbs 
 Black Paint, ... 8 « 
 
 28 
 
326 HEDGE ANCHOB, OR 
 
 Soap, - . _ . ^ lb. 
 
 Fresh Water, - - - - 3 pints. 
 
 84. Another Receipt for Hammock Cloths, No. 3. 
 
 Black Paint, . - . - ^ lb. 
 
 Yellow Ochre, - - - - 3 lbs 
 
 Soap, ilb 
 
 Fresh Water, - - - - f gill. 
 
 85. Composition for Hammock Cloths, No. 4. 
 
 Black paint well ground, - 
 
 80 pounds. 
 
 Linseed Oil, 
 
 10 galls. 
 
 Bees wax, - _ - 
 
 10 pounds 
 
 Litharge, . - _ 
 
 5 do. 
 
 Spirits Turpentine, - 
 
 1 gall. 
 
 For blacking bends add 2 gallons 
 
 of Tar. 
 
 86. Composition for Making Black Varnish, 
 
 Spirits of Turpentine. 
 
 1 Gall. 
 
 Rosin, 
 
 1 lb. 4 oz. 
 
 Lampblack. 
 
 1 do. 4 do: 
 
 Linseed Oil, - 
 
 1 quart. 
 
YOUNG sailor's ASSISTANT. 327 
 
 To be boiled on a slow fire for half an hour, then 
 used, or laid on, when cold. 
 
 87. Solder for Tin. 
 
 Nothing here is necessary, but good tough borax, 
 and brass well mixed together with water to the con> 
 sistence of paste. 
 
 88. Solder for Lead. 
 
 Take two parts of water Lead and one part of tin, 
 its goodness is tried by melting it, and pouring the 
 size of a crown piece on a table, then if it be good, 
 there will arise small bright stars or beads on it — ap- 
 ply rosin when you use it. 
 
 S9. To make the best Drying Oil. 
 
 Mix 1 pound of Litharge of gold to every 6 gal- 
 Ions of Oil, boil it over a slow fire, but not too much 
 lest it prove too thick, and be unserviceable. 
 
328 KEDGE ANCHOR. 
 
 90. For Black Stai7i. 
 
 Copperas, - - - 4oz. 
 
 Iron rust, or a few pieces of old iron hoop, 
 Vinegar, - - - 1 gallon, 
 
 Lampblack, - - ^ lb. 
 
 A small quantity of Oak shavings. 
 
 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 
 Page. 5, 
 
 15th line 
 
 for Cavrick, read Carrick. 
 
 6, 
 
 26 
 
 (( i( 
 
 Pauch, " 
 
 Panch. 
 
 21, 
 
 18 
 
 11 u 
 
 clean, " 
 
 clear. 
 
 49, 
 
 U 
 
 (( (( 
 
 expand " 
 
 expend. 
 
 58, 
 
 12 
 
 (( (( 
 
 boy. 
 
 buoy. 
 
 61, 
 
 20 
 
 (( (( 
 
 those « 
 
 these. 
 
 - 83, 
 
 23 
 
 (( (( 
 
 cleats, " 
 
 blocks. 
 
 93, 
 
 11 
 
 n n 
 
 ports, " 
 
 parts. 
 
 101, 
 
 5 
 
 ii a 
 
 booms, " 
 
 bows. 
 
 (( 
 
 19 
 
 « u 
 
 and, 
 
 end. 
 
 102, 
 
 3 
 
 (1 (( 
 
 Ihrimble, " 
 
 treble 
 
 1^ No doubt there 
 
 are other errors, which the author hopes the 
 
 vner will correct with the 
 
 pen. 
 
 
 THE END.