PERKINS LIBRARY Duke Ur ity Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/newportitscottagOOmaso OTTAGES. ■iwon,Arti v. r - 2s*s s2 >* r v: Of f !i ■ w#'A t v‘?\ #\Sase;. liSlL® ~ ?'■>. T “ Architecture can foant no commentation inhere there are noble men or noble mints.” Sir Henry Wotton. “ E\)t chambres ant parlcrs of a sortc, £Hith ban tonntofors gootlue as man be thoughte, As for taunsnng or otherwise ttsport.” Chaucer . IV PREFACE. N presenting this work to the public, the author begs to state that his &/1U a * m ^ ias been to bring together, in a pleasing and attractive form, illustra¬ tions of the beautiful country-seats that adorn the southern shores of Rhode T Island, now so justly celebrated as a watering-place. The island, known to the Indians as Aquidneck, — “Isle of Peace," — is one of great beauty. Dean Berkeley (late Lord Bishop of Cloyne) described it as “pleasantly laid out in hills and vales and rising grounds, and hath plenty of excellent springs and fine rivulets, and many delightful landscapes of rocks and promontories, and adjacent lands;" and Tuckerman sang its praises in lines that will not die. On these shores will be found the cottages I have portrayed, with many others, both large and small, embowered in luxuriant foliage, in sight of the sea. The views were taken from nature; and the other illustrations are copied from pen-drawings. All are printed by the I leliotype Process, and are, in effect, photographs printed in printer's ink on an ordinary printing-press. They are as permanent as an engraving, and are far more accurate than any thing that could come from an engraver’s burin. To Messrs. James R. Osgood & Co., the publishers, Mr. Ernest Edwards, the inventor of the Heliotype Process, and Mr. George A. Coolidge, who has had charge of the printing and binding, my thanks are due for the interest they have taken in the work, and the facilities they have afforded me in bringing it out. The edition has been limited to one hundred copies; and the few remaining copies, after supplying the subscribers, may be had of James R. Osgood &: Co., Boston, or of George C. Mason Sc Son, architects, Newport, R.I. GEORGE C. MASON. Newport, R.I., Sept, r, 1875. CONTENTS. f EWPORT — Old and New. James P. Kernochan, Esq., New York Hon. August Belmont, New York . Francis A. Stout, Esq., New York. L. P. Morton, Esq., New York. Frederick Sheldon, Esq., New York. Henry A. Tailer, Esq., New York ...... Narragansett Avenue ......... Hon. E. D. Morgan, New York. George R. Fearing, Esq., Newport, R.I. Miss C. L. Wolfe, New York. Edward King, Esq., Newport, R.I. C. N. Beach, Esq., Hartford, Conn. Geo. Peabody Wetmore. Esq., Newport, R.I. The Bathing Beach . Charles H. Russell, Esq., New York. Thomas F. Cushing, Esq., Boston, Mass. Frederic W. Stevens, Esq., New York. Mrs. William F. Coles, New York. Mrs. Colford Jones, New York. Mrs. Loring Andrews, New York. Bellevue Avenue . Hon. Wm. Beach Lawrence, Newport, R.I. 1'homas Winans, Esq., Baltimore, Md. Charles J. Peterson, Esq., Philadelphia, Penn. Earl P. Mason, Esq., Providence, R.I. i 7 9 11 x 3 14 x 5 16 18 *9 21 22 23 25 27 29 3 1 33 35 37 38 40 43 45 47 49 vi • 5 1 John Foster, Esq., Boston, Mass. Hon. Robert H. Ives, Providence, R .1 .53 The Shore Drive.55 Alex. Van Rensselaer, Esq., New York.58 F. S. G. D’Hauteville, Esq., Boston, Mass.60 George Tiffany, Esq., Newport, R.I.. 61 H. G. Marquand, Esq., New York..63 M. Lazarus, Esq., New York.65 J. Frederick Kernochan, Esq., New York.67 The Spouting Cave ..69 William W. Tucker, Esq., Boston, Mass... 76 William Tilden Blodgett, Esq., New York ..78 Mrs. Paran Stevens, New York . ..80 R. H. McCurdy, Esq., New York.81 Hon. J. Winthrop Chanler, New York.83 Nathan Matthews, Esq., Boston, Mass..85 John Knower, Esq., New York.87 Fairman Rogers, Esq., Philadelphia, Penn. . ..89 Fort Adams.91 Henry S. Fearing, Esq., New York.94 Hon. Hugh T. Dickey, Chicago, III.96 Mrs. Robert Woodworth, New York.98 Henry Bedlow, Esq., Newport, R.I.100 Thomas Appleton, Esq., Boston, Mass.102 Royal Phelps, Esq., New York.103 Geo. C. Mason, Newport, R.I.104 The Little Frenchman.105 vii EWPORT AND viii. NEWPORT-OLD AND NEW. EWPORT unites the present with the past. There is not a place in the United States more fully identified with the early history of the country; and, as a watering-place of the present day, it is without a rival. It was settled in 1639; and up to the advent of the Revolution its success in mercantile and maritime affairs was unexampled. From the blow it received at that time, and which was repeated by the war of 1812, it never fully recovered. As a leading port of entry it was no longer known. Rut it had other attractions, — Nature’s bountiful gifts ; and these, heightened by art and a cul¬ tivated taste, have made it what it is to-day. It was early noted for its refined and cultivated society, as “ the chosen resort of the rich and philosophic from nearly all quarters of the world; ” and in its hospitable mansions of to-day artists and scholars, poets and divines, statesmen and scientists, all find a recognition. The French officers under Rochambeau scratched on the window- panes of their quarters the names of the belles with whom they danced; and the British officers, no less charmed, took to themselves Yankee wives during their occupation of the island. Berkeley prolonged his stay when he acci¬ dentally landed on this shore, — a stay that resulted in the formation of a phil¬ osophical society, and the foundation of a library that comprised the finest collection of books in America, Cambridge alone excepted. And in the salons of modern Newport may be found members of the diplomatic corps, and men of distinction in every profession. The settlement of questions of national importance has been frequently referred to commissions that held their sittings here ; the days given to the discussion of questions of the deepest import, and the evenings passed in the society of women as lovely as they are refined and cultivated. What wonder that the position of Newport is pre-eminent, or that it is identified with all that is beautiful and attractive? There is a marked difference in the appearance of the old part and the new part of Newport; and whilst we treat of the one, it may not be amiss to note some of the peculiarities of the other. The new part has kept pace with the requirements of the day, and is adorned with beautiful cottages and villas, made still more attractive by well-kept lawns and flowering shrubs and plants of almost every known variety. But in the old part the most conservative will find but little in the way of change. Many shop-fronts that bear the marks of generations long gone to rest may still be seen ; and bunches of bananas, as like as two peas to those that hung at the door a century or more ago, are to be found in the same place. And of the inhabitants who occupy the old houses — But here let me relate an anecdote or two, illustrative of the tenacity with which they hold to the homes of their childhood. 1 give the facts, and suppress only the names. A gentleman born in Newport, and who had spent ’mid other scenes the greater part of his life, returned to his native place a few years ago, and tried to recall events connected with his childhood, lie remembered that he was sent to school to Marin Jones when but two years of age, and that he and another child of about the same age were frequently placed in a cradle during school-hours, and rocked by Becky Jones, Mann Jones’s daughter, who assisted her mother in the school. The impression of the schoolroom had remained fresh in his mind. There was a small fireplace across the angle of the room, with tiles in the jambs; and the heavy beams on the sides of the room were met bv other heavy beams running overhead. This impression he sometimes supposed later in life was a creation of the mind, and had no foundation in reality; but he clung to it tenaciously, and at last found that he had not been mistaken. Passing up Thames Street, he came to an old building on the corner of North Baptist Street that he felt confident was the scene of his early school-days. Pausing; to survey it, he asked an old man in the neighborhood if Marin Jones kept a school there forty years ago. “ Yes,” was the reply, “ and she keeps school there now.” — “She had a daughter Becky, who assisted her in the school: is she still living?”—“ Yes,” said the old man, “ and in the same house. She is the Widow Smith now.” This was enough for the inquirer, who at once knocked at the low door. The rap was answered by a woman past the prime of life; and he asked, “ Are you Mrs. Smith, formerly Becky Jones, wlio kept school here forty years ago, with Mann Jones?”—“Yes, sir,” she replied. “ Well,” said lie, “ I came to school here at that time, and was then but two years old.”—“ If that is so,” said the woman, looking intently at him, “ your name must be either Benjamin Long or George Short, for we had two children of that age ; and we used to rock them in a cradle when they were tired.”—“ My name is Benjamin Long,” said the gentleman, “ and I am anxious to see your mother.” On entering a chamber above, to which he was conducted, he said at once, “ This is the schoolroom. There is the fireplace in the angle, with its tiles; and there are the great beams overhead, and down the sides of the room.” Then the old lady, Marm Jones, a woman of ninety, came in, who, when asked the same question that had been put to the daughter, said, “ We had at that time two children placed under our care, and they were each about two years of age ; and to keep them quiet we used to rock them in a cradle. Their names were Benjamin Long and George Short.”—“This is Benjamin Long,” said Becky. The old lady looked incredulous for a moment, and then exclaimed, “Why, Benjamin, how thee has changed! Thou liadst then soft, flaxen hair, and thy complexion was fair. There must be something in the air of New York that has changed its color, and made thee so brown.” The babe she remembered, but she could not recognize in the strong and active man the child she had cared for in its infancy. Where will one find another instance of a school kept for forty years in one place and by the same “ schoolmarm ” ? On Long Wharf, just at the fork, and facing the Parade, there stands an old building, which was somewhat modernized a few years ago. It is now a paint- shop, but formerly it was occupied by three maiden sisters, who kept a circu¬ lating library that was the resort of all the belles of this old seaport, — belles who had danced with Lauzun and Rochainbeau, with De Chastellux and La Fayette ; when novels were not so plentiful as in these days of a swarming press, and when the maidens who had the privilege of visiting this great cen¬ tre of attraction eagerly caught up the latest importation (for there were no American novels at that date), and revelled in the outpourings of Miss Austen and Mrs. Badclilfe; and even the labored productions of Richardson, and it may be the satires of Swift, were almost as popular with this little set. Well do 1 remember these spinsters; but this was long after their glory had departed, and when the taste for the few books that composed their scanty stock was as obsolete as the style of their close-fitting caps and gored dresses. But with all the changes that showed the marks of time in their well-seamed faces, as well as in the yellow leaves and dingy print of their books, they had lost but little of their cheerfulness. Each day the iron bars were taken down from the shutters,—two on the front and one on the end of the store, — and the half door was opened; and then through the glazed door and windows there streamed in a flood of light, softened only by the muslin curtains, embroidered with curious figures, which carried the mind back to the time when Aaron Lopez and George Rome’s small brigs and schooners brought these precious webs from the Old World to this then almost the only mart of the New. The store was not more than eighteen or twenty feet in length, and about eight in width. There was a narrow counter on three sides, and the available space in the centre for customers was small indeed. But it sufficed, seeing that the favored few who were admitted to the shelves to make their selec¬ tions at their leisure could retreat to the little sitting-room off the store, to which access was had by means of a glass door; and there the patrons of the library could talk with the sisters, who were always communicative about “ Clarissa Harlowe,” and the virtues of “ Pamela,” of Walpole’s “ Castle of Otranto,” and of Miss Reeve’s “ Old English Barons,” “ The Scottish Chiefs,” “Sense and Sensibility,” “ Pride and Prejudice ”(has Miss Austen the sin laid to her door of introducing the alliteration now so much in vogue ?), and “ Persuasion.” What a little world was that eiglit-by-ten sitting-room, with its fireplace set in the oblique side opposite the two windows, the small antique mirror, the wainscoted walls, and the half dozen high-back chairs, one of which, with a lower back and arms, painted white and gold, with the seat covered with green velvet, the sisters always said had once belonged to Louis XIV., but how it found its way to their snug retreat we were never informed. I have heard it said that Talleyrand once lodged in a house in that neighborhood—in the same range — incog .: had the sisters been aware of this fact, they might have associated the name of the Abbe de Perigord with that of Le Grand Monarque, when they pointed with pride to the chair which had strayed so far from the seat of royalty. But to continue my inventory of the snug little parlor. There was the scanty carpet, the braided rug, the bright andirons; the well-fed cats, two or three of which were always basking in the sun that stole through the muslin curtains, or purring contentedly before the few embers on the hearth, — the embodiment of comfort, ease, and entire indifference to all that was passing beyond the scope of their vision, and the range of their daily walks for air and exercise. And how shall I describe the three sisters, — three, yet one in every thing? As they lived, so they died, in peace and contentment, and just removed beyond the confines of absolute want. One day to them was the same as another, and nothing seemed to affect the peaceful current of their lives. Their stock of goods was never large, — a few books for sale, but which were rarely sold; a few bunches of yarn hung outside the door; and a scanty supply of socks and stockings, the product of their leisure hours, and oftener made to order than for chance sale. Thus they lived, wanting little, and that little procured without great diffi¬ culty. But the want of public appreciation of their books in later years was a sad thing to them, and they were fain to believe that the taste for reading had died out with the generation that had gone to their graves. There was the “Romance of the Forest,” once engaged weeks in advance, now covered with the dust of age; and who could be so dull as not to prize the “Sicilian Robbers,” and the “ Mysteries of Udolpho”? Had not Scott called the author of these works “the first poetess of romantic fiction”? and did it not bespeak apathy on the part of the public to leave them idle on the shelves where they had slept untouched for years? But there the books remained, uncalled for save by some devourer of modern romance, who wished to taste of the peren¬ nial spring that gladdened the hearts of his ancestors. And during all this time the knots of yarn were hung out of the door every morning, to be taken in every evening, until they were gradually worked into stockings for those who were strangers to all their feelings, and in almost every thing save in name and person. At last death came to this quiet abode. The mob cap was silently laid aside, and the gored dress was exchanged for a winding-sheet; and then the survivors, with a few friends, followed the remains to their last resting-place. The charmed circle once entered, death found it easy work to secure another victim; and so, in a few short years, the same scene was enacted. And then but one of the sisterhood — a band so united that it seemed as if it had but one heart, one organization — was left to mourn over departed joys, and to look forward to the time when the circle, so rudely broken on earth, should be united in heaven. But for years she had to walk in the valley alone. There still was the remnant of the old stock of books, the bunch of yarn, the muslin curtains, the dust, the high-backed chairs; and there the cats, which, genera¬ tion after generation, had ruled almost supreme in the little parlor. At last the hands became too feeble to ply the needles, the shutters were sometimes not taken down of a morning, and the socks and the yarn were missed from the door-post. Then we knew that disease, or, rather, the infirm¬ ity of age, was putting its seal on the form that once made every thing there pleasant and cheerful; and so kind friends came forward, and urged her to give up her lonely life, and take up her abode with those who would minister to the wants of her declining days. “But what,” said she, “will become of the cats? They will not go too, and I cannot leave them behind. And who will look after the leaks in the garret when 1 am gone ? I know every crack and crevice, and just where to place the bowls when it rains. No, I cannot go, for there is no one to take my place.” In time these scruples were over¬ come ; and the good woman was carried forth from her old home, the abode of a lifetime, unlike her sisters in their shrouds, but hovering over the grave into which she soon after descended. And then the few remaining books were scattered to the winds, the muslin curtains found their way to the paper-mill, the high-backed chairs were last seen under the auctioneer’s hammer (what became of the Louis XIV. I never knew), and the sign over the door, which had withstood the wear of so many tempests that its faded letters of black and white on a pink ground could hardly be deciphered, was taken down. The business was closed. UiSjL wmm. jr&so© sstiew ‘Fomie, JAMES P. KERETOCHAE, Esq. N Marine Avenue stands the villa of Mr. James P. Kernochan. It em¬ braces about ten acres, running down to the beach on the east. In the lawn proper there are live acres, beautifully laid out, profusely stocked with fine plants and trees, and rich in flowering shrubs. The stables arc hid from view by a luxu¬ riant growth of trees on the right; y I and the large curvilinear grapery and conservatories may be seen on the left. The porch, veranda, buy- windows, and rustic summer¬ houses, are draped with a wealth of foliage from climbing vines ; and the air is fragrant with the perfume of honeysuckles and roses. The drawing-room, library, and other rooms, each with a distinct treat¬ ment, are richly adorned; and the allroom with its vaulted ceiling, and its delicate and chaste decora¬ tions in white, blue, and gold, elicits the admiration of all who enjoy the hospitalities of this attractive sum¬ mer residence. In form, the ballroom is a square of thirty-two feet, with deep bays that give the extremes of forty-two by forty-eight feet. The bays open upon broad verandas; the ribbed and vaulted ceiling (with a light at the apex, surrounded by a delicate tracery that serves as a ventilator) is relieved by arabesques in gold; the frieze is supported on Corinthian pilasters at the angles; the floor, of marquetry, is highly polished; and provision is made for the orchestra in a gallery reached from the second story. A more beautiful combination, or one better suited to the purpose for which it was designed, it would be difficult to find. 8 Hon. AUGUST BELMONT. YTHESEA, Mr. Belmont’s line es¬ tate, is on the comer of Bellevue and Marine Avenues, and extends to the sea on the cast, embracing about fourteen acres, with a wide frontage on the water, and a bath¬ ing beach. The ample proportions of the lawn admit of the house standing well back from the ave¬ nue; the land gradually rising to it on all sides. The location is unsurpassed, and the view is all that one can desire. On two sides of the house there is an uninterrupted view of the sea, and the waves are ever rolling in on the little beach at the foot of the lawn. The grounds are stocked with the choicest plants and trees, so grouped as to form vistas that delight the eye, and invite one to linger and enjoy the scene. The air is Idled with perfume from beds of mignonette, carnations, and tuberoses; honeysuckles and wisterias cling to every thing that will afford them support; and butterflies and humming-birds flit from flower to flower. The ruddy cheeks of nectarines and early Yorks are seen through the glass of the peach-houses; the graperies yield tempting bunches of Hamburgs and flame-colored Tokays; and the conservatories, stripped in summer of their treasures to adorn the corridors and grounds, still retain their Marshal Neills and other rare climbers. The house is one of ample proportions: its rooms, broad and deep, are all en suite , with rich hangings, delicately-tinted ceilings, and rare works of art. The ballroom, on the east looking directly upon the sea, opens from the drawing-room and dining-room by wide sliding doors, each a single plate of glass. The room itself is of the most liberal proportions, broken in its outline by bays on three sides, and appropriately adorned. The broad veranda, which is an essential part of every summer retreat by the sea, extends around three sides of the house, and is made additionally attractive by the flowering vines intwined around the columns, and which almost hide from view the balustrade. The extensive stables, now almost hid from view by the growth of trees, are on the left on entering the grounds; and on the right there is a picturescpie lodge, vine-clad and embedded in flowers. The shore-line of the lawn ter¬ minates in a gravel-walk just within the sea-wall; and on a point of rocks, making out into the breakers, there is a rustic summer-house, overgrown with bignonias and woodbines. 10 • * FRANCIS A. STOUT, N the east side of Bellevue Avenue, a short distance below Marine Avenue, Mr. Stout has his summer residence. The house, almost hid from view by the foliage of a line growth of trees, was one of the first erected on the avenue. It was built simply for a comfort¬ able residence by the seaside during the summer months; and, whilst it boasts of no architectural attractions, it has other charms that more than compensate for any thing wanting in structural adornments. The grounds that surround it are charming; and the view of the sea, from the lawn on the east, is something to be remembered. Here one meets with culture, and an appreciation of the beautiful, on every hand. To have our hedges neatly clipped, our flower-beds well stocked, and the borders of our grounds adorned with goodly trees, is one thing; but it is another thing to understand the peculiarities and requirements of the plants around us: just as there is a difference between giving an order to a bookseller to till our shelves, and the enjoyment of making our own selections from old and well-tried authors. As we enjoy our books whilst within doors, so would we enjoy our trees and shrubs when in the open air: not becoming bookworms or pedants on the one hand, nor botanists on the other; but with a cultivated taste, and a refined sense of the beautiful, that will teach us to appreciate the lines of Mary Howitt: — “ Gocl might have made the earth bring forth Enough for great and small, The oak-tree and the cedar-tree, Without a flower at all. We might have had enough, enough For ever}' want of ours, — For luxury, medicine, and toil,— And yet have had no flowers. u Then wherefore, wherefore, were they made, And dyed with rainbow light, All fashioned with supremest grace, Upspringing day and night ? Our outward life requires them not: Then wherefore had they birth ? To minister delight to man, — To beautify the earth.” Hazlitt, in his charming description of the impression the tea-gardens at Walworth made on him when a boy, says, “ All I have observed since of (lowers and plants and grass-plots, and of suburb delights, seems to me bor¬ rowed from the first garden of innocence, — to be slips and scions from the bed of memory.” And there is hardly an English writer of the present century, of any note, who has not given us beautiful passages on the culture of plants, and the pleasure to be derived from ornamental gardens. Nor need w*e pause here, but may go back to the days of Evelyn, who, it is said, first taught gardening to speak proper English, and find the way adorned with gems of thought, brought to the surface in shady walks like these, and in sight of gay parterres. U 3Lj w&m W&mm. L. P. MORTON, Esq. pHE summer residence of L. P. Morton, Esq., is on the east side of Bellevue Avenue, and the corner of Marine Avenue. It is one of the few Elizabethan cottages in Newport, and is an excellent example of this style. It stands in the centre of the lawn, is built of brick and brown stone; and ‘from its location, graceful proportions, and well- delined outline, will always command attention. Within, the hall is a striking feature of this well-arranged house, with its broad staircase and massive balustrade. A few years since, Mr. Morton, wanting more room, added a spacious ballroom, connecting it with the drawing-room, and with entrances also from the lawn. It is elaborately decorated; and the little breaks and corners, systematically arranged, add to the general effect, and afford room for those who are not dancing, but who would watch the dancers in the mazy round of the waltz or galop. How softly the music steals to us as we step out on the lawn, — Fair- lawn!— How quick we are to catch the change to some favorite air of Liszt or Von Bulow! and ere we stroll through the shrubbery we pause, unwilling to move till the last notes of “ In Sonnenscliein,” so appropriate on a bright and glowing day like this, have died on the air. The very crickets, whose voices are so musically rendered, give an approving chirp; and for the moment we fancy that all the winged insects are in motion, rejoicing with us “ in the sunshine.” The graperies and stables, of which one catches a glimpse on entering the grounds, are on the left, and back from the avenue. 13 VffiS3)Sm