DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY eng Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/blacksguidetodev01adam GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE. EXETER CATHEDRAL. West BLACK’S GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE Hlajjs anii $IInstralimu EDINBURGH ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1878 CLUE INDEX TO THE CHIEF PLACES IN DEVONSHIRE. For General Index see Page 285. Axminster, 160. Babbicombe, 109. Barnstaple, 209. Berry Pomeroy, 269. Bideford, 147. Bridgewater, 277. Brixham, 115. Buckfastleigh, 263. Bude Haven, 223. Budleigh-Salterton, 170. Chudleigh, 268. Cock’s Tor, 248. Dartmoor, 242. Dartmouth, 117. Dart Kiver, 116. Dawlisk, 106. Devonport, 133. Eddystone Lighthouse, 138. Exe, The, 190. Exeter, 173. Exmoor Forest, 159. Exmouth, 101. Harewood House, 238. Honiton, 164. Ilfracombe, 152. Kent Hole, 113 Kingswear, 119. Lydford, 226. Lynmouth, 155. Lynton, 156. Moreton Hampstead, 250. Newton Abbot, 270. Okehampton, 203. Paignton, 114. Plymouth, 121. Plympton, 143. Saltash, 142. Sidmouth, 99. Tamar, Biver, 273. Taunton, 277. Tavistock, 230. Tavy, 238. Teignmouth, 107. Tiverton, 195. Torquay, 111. Totnes, 260. Ugbrooke, 109. Withycombe, 100. A CIRCULAR TOUR THROUGH DEVON AND CORNWALL. Tourists may find this Skeleton Tonr useful, as it covers in a short time most of the leading places of interest. As regards posting, which is occasionally necessary, the general charge is Is. 6d. per mile for a carriage and pair, and Is. per mile for a single horse conveyance. In both cases 3d. extra per mile for the driver is charged. The mileage is stated below where posting is done. [Pages 97 to 284 refer to the Guide to Devonshire, and pages 275 to 391 to the Guide to Cornwall .] ROUTES. I. Taunton (p. 277) to Lynton (p. 156), rail from Taunton to Mine- head, and thence post (20 miles) to Lynton. [Another mode of reaching Lynton is by rail to Barnstaple (Fortescue Street), and thenee by coach to Lynton (20 miles).] II. Lynton to Ilfracombe (p. 152), coach or post (20 miles). III. Ilfracombe to Clovelly (p. 146), rail to Bideford (p. 147), via Barn¬ staple (p. 209); thence coach to Clovelly Cross (14 miles), walk or drive from Clovelly Cross to Clovelly (2 miles). IV. Clovelly to Bude (p. 223). Walk or drive to Clovelly Cross (2 miles), thence coach to Bude (16 miles). V. Bude to Tintagel (p. 308). Post (22 miles). VI. Tintagel to Penzance (p. 347). Post to Bodmin (p. 291 ; 20 miles), thence omnibus to Bodmin Road Railway Station (3| miles), and rail to Penzance. VII. Penzance to Land’s End (p. 366) and back. Drive to St. Buryan (p. 365), thence to Trevyn, and walk (1 mile) to the Logan Stone. Return to Trevyn, and drive to Land’s End. Return via Sennen. (In all about 25 miles.) VIIT. Penzance to St. Michael’s Mount (p. 358) and back. Rail to Marazion Road Station, and thence walk or drive (1£ mile) to Marazion (p. 357), thence boat or walk to the Mount. IX. Penzance to the Lizard (pp. 368 and 350). Coach to Helstone (p. 352 ; 12 miles), and thence coach to the Lizard (12 miles). X. The Lizard to Falmouth (p. 343). Coach to Helstone (12 miles), and thence coach to Falmouth (11 miles). XI. Falmouth to Plymouth (p. 121) by rail. Rail to Tavistock (p. 230), and visit Dartmoor Forest (p. 242). XII. Plymouth to Torquay (p. 111). Rail to Totnes (p. 260), steamer down Dart to Dartmouth (p. 242), rail to Torquay. XIII. Torquay to Exeter (p. 173) by rail. CONTENTS -♦- DEVONSHIRE. PAGE Along the Coast—LYME KEGIS to PLYMOUTH. Lyme Regis to Dawlish. Seaton—Sidmouth— Kxmouth —Topsham—Exmlnster—Powderham—Star- cross—D awlish . 07-108 Dawlish to Dartmouth. Telgnmouth— Torquay —Paignton—Brixharn—Berry Head—Froward Point —Dartmouth . .... 106-119 Dartmouth to Plymouth. Tor Cross—Start Point—Prawle Point—Bolt Head—Bolt Tail—River Erme —Stoke Point—P lymouth .... 119-144 . PORTLAND to LYNTON. Along the Coast. Clovelly—Bar Harbour—Baggy Point—Morthoe—Morte Point—Bnll Point —Ilfracombe—Combe Martin—Martinhoe— Lynton . . 144-160 AXMINSTER to EXETER. By Rail. Oolyton — Honiton—Ottery Road — Wbimple — Broad Clyst —Exetjlr . 160-191 Branch Route—From Honiton to Budleigh-Salterton . 166-170 Do. From Honiton to Tiverton . . . 171-1T2 Do. From Exeter to Wellington . . 161-193 Do. From Exeter to Bampton , r 194-197 vi CONTENTS. hot EXETEE to BIDEFOED. By North Devon Railway. Newton St. Cyres—Crediton—Coppleston — Morchard Road— Eggesford— Chulmleigh- —Umberleigh—Barnstaple— Bideford 197-216 Branch Route—From Crediton to Tiverton 198-199 Do. From Crediton to Okehampton . 199-204 Do. From Barnstaple to Ilfracombe . 211-212 Do. From Barnstaple to Lynton 213-214 Do. From Barnstaple to Bampton 214 Do. From Barnstaple to Holsworthy 215-216 BIDEFOED to POETLAND. By Road. Fairy Cross—Bucks Mill—The Hobby—CloveUy—Hartland _ 117 219 BIDEFOED to OKEHAMPTON. By Road. Wear Gifford— Torrington—Hatherleigh—Inwardleigh—O xxhampton 220-224 Branch Route—From Hatherleigh to Stratton . . . 222-224 Do. From Okehampton to Exeter . . . 225 Do. From Okehampton to Launceston . . 225-229 OKEHAMPTON to DEVONPOET. By the Tavistock Road. Sonrton—Lydford—Brent Tor— Tavistock or Sourton—St Mary Tavy— Tavistock ... . 226-230 By Tavistock and Plymouth Railway. Horrabridge—Bickleigh— New Bridge Junction— Plymouth . 252-258 Branch Route—From Tavistock to Launceston . . . 239-240 Da From Tavistock to Exeter . . . 240-251 PLYMOUTH to EXETEE. By South Devon Railway. Plympton St. Mary—Cornwood Road—Ivy Bridge—Klngsbrldge—Brent— Totnes — Newton Junction — Teignmouth— Dawllsh — 8 tare roes — Exeter . . . . . . . 254-272 Branch Route—From Totnes to Chudleigh , • . 262-268 Do. From Totnes to Dartmouth . . , 268-269 CONTENTS. rr. APPENDIX ROUTE.— From PLYMOUTH to the WEIR HEAD. By Boat up the River Tamar RAILWAY ITINERARIES. 1. Bristol to Exeter and Plymouth, by Bristol and Exeter and South Devon Railways ..... 11 Exeter to Barnstaple by North Devon Railway . „ 1 iOK 274- 274 275- 282 283-2S4 b DEVONSHIRE. This beautiful county is the third largest of the English shires, being exceeded only by those of Lincoln and York. It is bounded on the N. and N.W. by the Irish Channel, on the VV. by the rivers Tamar and Marsland-waters, on the S. and S.E. it has the British Channel, and on the E. and N.E. it is conterminous with the counties of Dorset and Somerset. Extent from N. to S., 7 1 miles, from E. to W., 72. Circumference, 287. Area, 2580 square miles—being equal to 1,(555,180 acres of land, of which about 1,200,000 are in cultivation. It contains 33 hundreds, 465 parishes, and 36 market towns. Population, 1871, 601,374. It is in the see of Exeter, and is included in the western circuit. The assizes are held at Exeter. Fortunately for the lovers of picturesque scenery its extensive surface presents those contrasts of ruggedness and soft rich beauty which charm and attract the eye. The mountains in the vicinity of Dartmoor rise to 1500 and 1800 feet above the level of the sea. On the south and south-east are extensive wastes, covered with rough masses of detached granite and immense rocks. To the north and north-west are large tracts of swampy ground, and many peat bogs of great depth ; while the Yale of Exeter, with an area of about 200 square miles, consists of some very fine land. The district to the south of Dartmoor, called the South Hams, is regarded as the garden of Devonshire, and is 96 DEVONSBIKE. strikingly dir ersi fled by bold swells and luxuriant vales, and in many parts towards the north by picturesque and romantic scenery. West Devon is remarkably uniform. North Devon, oi the country round Bideford, Barnstaple, and South Holton, contains much productive land, and is greatly diversified with beautiful scenery. The climate of Devon varies according to the height of the district, still, from its situation between two seas, its immediate ex¬ posure to the south-west winds as tney blow from the ocean, and the elevated summits of the surrounding mountains, it is upon the whole much milder than that of the other English counties. The winters are exceedingly mild, and proverbially favourable to the cure of pulmonary complaints. The air is generally dry and warm, and the harvest earlier than in any other parts of the west. On the southern coast the myrtle flourishes in the open air. The principal rivers of Devonshire are the Taw, the Torridge, the Tamar, the Dart, the Teign, and the Exe ; and the lesser are the Tavy, the Plym, the Yealrn, the Arine, the Avon, the Otter the Sid, the Axe, and the Lyn. The ancient castles, now in ruins, are Berry-Pomeroy, built by Ralph de la Pomeroy, who came to England with the Conqueror ; Compton Castle ; Rougemont Castle, formerly the seat of the West Saxon kings, in the vicinity of Exeter, and, according to tradition, built by Julius Caesar ; the castle of Oke- hampton, which stood about a mile south-west of the towu ; Plympton Castle, which was the residence of Richard de Rivers, Earl of Devon, in the reign of Henry L The same person was also in possession of Tiverton Castle, the ruins of which may still be seen, and of Totnes Castle, erected by Judhael de Totnais, to whom the manor w r as given by the Conqueror. The remains of the abbeys and monasteries of Devonshire are those of Buckfastleigh, near Ashburton ; Buckland Abbey, on the eastern banks of the river Tavy ; Dunkeswell, near Cullomp- ton ; the Cistercian Abbey at Axminster, the property of Lord Petre ; Hartland Abbey, part of the present house of Paul Orchard, Esq.; the ruins of a priory of Benedictines at Moodbury; and Tor Abbey, a portion of the modern seat of G. Cary, Esq. The venerable and magnificent cathedral of Exeter is among the most ancient specimens of ecclesiastical buildings. DEVONSHIRE. 97 The principal Beats are—Castle Hill (Earl Fortescue) ; Stover Lodge (Duke of Somerset) ; Endsleigh (Duke of Bedford) ; Sal- tram (Earl Morley) ; Mount Edgcumbe (Earl Mount Edgcumbe) ; Bagtor (Lord Ashburton) ; Exeter Palace (Bishop of Exeter)j Bicton (Lady Rolle); Haldon Hall (Sir L. Palk, Bart.); Escott (Sir J. Kennaway, Bart.) For election purposes the county is divided into three dis¬ tricts—East, North, and South Devon ; each division returning two members to Parliament. The COAST of DEVONSHIRE—LYME REGIS to PLYMOUTH. I.—LYME REGIS to DAWLIS1L l Seaton, 61 nr ; Sidmouth, 8 m. ; Exmouth, 1 Oj m. ; Topsham (for Exeter), 5m.; Exminster, 1 m.; Powderham, 2 m. ; Starcroas, 3 m. ; Dawlish, 7 m. = about 43 in.] Our exploration of the Devonian coast commences with the pier and harbour of Lyme Cobb. From hence even to Saltasli, where the waters of the Tamar separate it from Cornwall, that coast is characterised by a grace and a beauty of its own. It boasts but little of sublimity or savage grandeur ; but it exults in the tranquil loveliness of grassy valleys opening out upon the oozy shore,—of happy meadows which pass almost imperceptibly into “ golden sands,”—of quiet sheeny coves lying in the shadow of fair green hills ! We keep abreast of a wall of cliff—where the chalk rests upon the greensand, and both are superimposed upon blue Has— until we approach the mouth of the Axe, which rolls on its way into the sea through a hollow, or valley, of red marl. On the east bank of the river is situated AXMOUTH (population, 66i- (s.w.) H 98 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH Inn: King’s Head) ; on the west, the pleasant watering-place of SEATON (population, 1966. Inn : Pole Arms). The Axe has its source in Somersetshire, and enters Devonshire at Wee- croft Bridge, 3 miles south of Mimbury. After contributing very materially to the trade of Axminster it receives the river Merle and a smaller tributary, and so augmented, runs on to meet the Coly, emptying itself into the Channel below Seaton (6 miles from Axminster). ■Axmopth is a small fishing-town, with an old Church, which among much later work retains a good Norman doorway and moulded arch. The hill beyond Hawksdown is crowned with a Roman camp, which commanded the mouth of the river, and the ocean-waters beyond. Seaton has of late years assumed the characteristics of a nascent watering-place ; and, indeed, it is quiet without being dull, and animated without being noisy. As the inland scenery is agreeable, and the sea-view extensive, it deserves a larger popu¬ larity than it has yet acquired. The houses cluster in a curve of the shore, between Culverhole Point, east, and Bere Head, west, and among them rises a modem church. It is said that its vil¬ lagers, in the days of good Queen Bess, attempted to divert the course of the Axe, but were unsuccessful. Honey Ditches (Honey, corrupted from Koenig's , the chief’s,) is an old entrench¬ ment defended by a double fosse and vallum. It was probably occupied as a sister fortress to Hawksdown. A small stream trickles through a narrow defile into the sea at Beer, 1 mile,—a mere scattering of fishermen's cottages upon a romantic beach. The lofty cliffs now stretch away westward like the huge rampart of some Titanic stronghold ; flushing into a myriad different hues when the sunlight falls upon them. We soon come in sight of BRANSCOMBE (population, 936). The village and church stand upon gently-rising ground at some slight distance from the shore. It was near this point that Tel¬ ford, the great engineer, proposed to commence the ship-canal, which, terminating in Bridgewater Bay, should unite the Bristol and British Channels. Among the fossils found in the neighbour¬ hood are caput medusas, basalti-formis, pecten, terebratulae, and pentacrinites. After escaping the hidden dangers of the Hook Ebb Rocks, SALCOMBE-SIDMOUTH. 99 we steer right into- the miniature hay of SALCOMBE (popula¬ tion, 476), or Salcombe Regis, its bold hill rising in the rear with a fine effect. It was the last royalist town to surrender in Devon, —June 1646. Its Church (SS. Mary and Peter) has a Norman tower and Early English chancel. Rounding the abrupt promon¬ tory formed by the extended ridge of Salcombe Hill, we sweep into the beautiful bay of SIDMOUTH (population, 3360. Inns: York, New, London, and Marine. Bank: nearest at Honiton—16 miles from Lyme Regis, 14 miles from Exeter, and 8 miles from Honiton). Imagine a narrow valley gently sloping to the sea between two hills which stretch their arms around it to fence off the blasts of winter. Imagine a bold open beach, protected from the billows by a four¬ fold terrace of pebbles, and at the head of this natural rampart place a long broad walk, 1700 feet, affording an almost unequalled promenade. Build on the slope a neat clean town in the shape of a Y, the stem pointing inland towards the green heights of Harpford, Beacon, and Penliill. Range a row of “ handsome lodging-houses,” hotels, and libraries along the beach—and you have before you Sidmouth. The river Sid, or “ riveret,” as old Risdon calls it, in summer is almost imperceptible ; in rainy seasons it swells into a pool, and then bursts through the shingle into the sea. The valley of the Sid is exquisitely undulating and richly cultivated. As early as the thirteenth century Sidmouth was a burgh and market-town, ruled by a port-reeve. Risdon speaks of it as “ one of the especialest fischer towns of the shire but since his time the fisherman and his coble have given place to the invalid and his bath-chair,—the London valetudinarian and his pony-chaise, —and Sidmouth appears to have thriven well by the exchange. In 1821 it contained 2747 inhabitants ; in 1851 the number stood at 3441. In sixty years the population has been tripled. The Duke of Kent died here (at Woodbrook Glen) in 1820. The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, has a good west tower, and dates from the fifteenth century. Among its memo¬ rials is a tablet to Dr. James Currie, d. 1805, better known as the biographer of Burns than as a physician. [All Saints’ Church was erected about twenty years ago. The Esplanade was constructed in 1838. Some line sketches of the scenery of this part of Devon have 100 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH been made by Darid Roberts. Chit Rock, a detached mass of sandstone, standi at the western extremity of the bay ] To the west of Sidinouth, High Peak (501 feet) stands prominently before us. The cliffs are here composed of sand, partly calcareous, and tinted with a ruddy hue by oxide of iron ; but they gradually lose their elevation as we continue our west¬ ward course. At Ladram Bay the waves have hollowed out a natural arch or cove by their unceasing action on the softer strata of the rock. The coast trends southward rather boldly for a couple of miles, and then again turns eastward. Here we arrive at the nouth of the Otter, which, rising near Otterford (Somersetshire), ripples through vale and meadow, past Up-otter, Honiton, Monk- ton, Otteiy St. Mary, Harpford, Colyton Raleigh, and Bickton, into the Channel miles south of OTTERTON (population, 1140). Let the angler resort to the latter village for the trout- fishing in the adjacent stream ; let the artist visit it for its pic¬ turesque situation on a wooded cliff, and the antiquarian for its Early English Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and planted upon a river-worn rock, like the great archangel on some “ empy¬ rean height.” Rounding Straight Point, we enter the Exe river and heave in sight of LITTLEHAM (population—with Exmouth—4150) and its ancient salterns. The manor formerly belonged to the monks of Sherborne, was granted after the Dissolution to Sir Thomas Dennis, whose present representative (by the female line) is Lord Rolle. About 2 miles inland, in a hollow of the hills, lies WITHY- COMBE. Its Perpendicular Church, dedicated to St. Michael, but known as St John-in-the-Wildemess, retains only its tall tower and north aisle. A curious legend attaches to the ruined church, which may interest the curious tourist. Between Sir Roger Whalingham of Withycombe and Sir Hugh de Creveldt of Littleham a bitter feud was cherished on account of certain dis¬ puted claims as to the right of wrecks upon the shore. Now, as Sir Hugh sat alone one night, musing upon his wrongs, and Uncharitably wishing all manner of evil or a speedy death to his enemy, the iron bell of St. John’s suddenly rung out upon the EXMOCTH. 101 air, though untouched by human hands, a funeral knell, and Sir Hugh knew that his foe was dead ! But, think you that the ful¬ filment of the unhallowed wish brought to the knight the happi¬ ness he expected ? No ; by day and by night he was haunted by the spirit of the dead Sir Roger. At his board, in his walks, by his bedside, he was ever present, and Sir Hugh was at last reduced to a pitiable state of misery. He trembled on the brink of the grave, and was swiftly dying, when a Spanish captain, one wh«. had sailed in the Indian seas, presented him with a spell power¬ ful enough to defy spirits blue, black, and gray—a pipe of tobacco ! Sir Hugh recovered in a week, and smoked for many a month, and finally taught his neighbour, young Raleigh of Withycombe, to smoke also. From Raleigh the pipe descended to the great Sir Walter, who, there is no doubt, planned his expedition to Virginia on purpose to —fill it / EXMOUTH. [Population, 5614. Inns : Beacon, Clarence. SLsT Communication with Exeter several times daily. A branch line from the South-Western Bailway via Topsham is constructed. Coaches to Sidmouth and Bcdleioh Salterton daily. 183 m. from London ; 10 m. from Exeter; 3 m. from Dawlish; 8J m. from Ex¬ minster ; 11 m. from Sidmouth ; 1 m. from Withycombe.] Exmouth, in King John’s reign, was one of the principal ports in Devonshire, and to Edward III.’s great expedition against France, in 1347, supplied a quota of ten ships and 193 mariners. Leland speaks of it as “ a fischer townlet a little within the haven mouth,” and it then boasted of a fort or “ castelet” designed to command the estuary of the Exe. This fort was garrisoned for the king during the Civil War, blockaded by Colonel Shapcoate, a stout Roundhead soldier, in February 1646, and captured, with 19 pieces of ordnance and much ammunition, on the 15 th of the following March. When migrations to the sea-side became fashionable with the aristocracy, Exmouth was the first town on the Devonshire coast to put out of sight its fishing gear, and make itself snug and decent for the reception of summer visitors. A “New Town* 102 LYME REG-IS TO PLYMOUTH. sprang up along the slopes and on the summit of the hill, and the “ Old Town ” was altered and improved with new streets. When the Old Town was first raised along the base of the hill, and on the beach, the sea “ covered nearly the whole of the ground on which the north-west part of the town is now built, and washed the base of the cliffs on the left-hand side of the pre¬ sent turnpike road from Exeter.” Of course Exmouth has its baths, bathing-machines, libraries, assembly-rooms, and all those agrimens which seem indispensable to a Briton’s comfort when he locateth himself at the sea-side. Its Church (in the Early English style of 1820), is dedicated to the Trinity, and was erected at the sole expense of Lord Rolle, whose family have been great benefactors to the town. The noble Sea-Wall, constructed of limestone, from the designs of Mr. Plewse (1841-2), is 1800 feet long, 22 feet high, and affords an admirable promenade. From the terraced slopes of the hill, especially from Louisa and Trefusis Terraces, the prospects are exceedingly noble ; well-wooded hills, the winding river, the sheen of the sunlit waters, the rounded height of Memhead, the gray towers of Powderham, groves, orchards, gardens,—all blend in one glorious and changeful panorama. The best view of Exmouth is obtainable from the river; “ the long terraces of white houses, rising behind each other on the hill-side from among groves of dark foliage, with the mass of meaner buildings at the base ; the sand, with its fishing-boats and larger craft ; and the broad sheet of water in front, with the shipping riding at an¬ chor upon it, compose together a pleasing and remarkable picture.” A long sand-bank runs out from the town far into the river, and a little lower down, the Warren stretches across the estuary for full two miles. Near the first bank, in mid-stream, lies Shelley Sand, and outside the Warren, where the Exe forms a junction with the sea, the Pole Sand has accumulated. The natural harbour formed by these sand-banks is called The Bight, where vessels anchor while waiting for wind or tide. A bar wliieh still to some extent impedes the navigation of the river, a mile or so above the town, was formed, it is said, by a Count of Devon, who had been defeated at law by the citizens of Exeter, with respect to their collection of the river- dues. He caused a large number of oaks to be felled on each bank of the river, for the land at least, belonged to him, and at midnight hurled them into the water, where they clung to TOPSHAM. 103 the sandy bottom with their roots and branches, and collecting soil and shingle, formed an almost insuperable barrier. Hints for Rambles. —The visitor to Exmouth will find ample employment for many days in its vicinity. 1. From Exmouth to Sidmocth, through Otterton, returning by way of East Budleigh and Lympstone, is an excursion much to be commended = 20 m — 2. Through Topsham to Exeter, by the river-bank, and returning by the Sidmouth road, through the two Clysts, as far as Woodbury, and from thence diverging again to the river-side, is also an attractive ramble = 23 m ; but the traveller should stay one night at Exeter. 3. By ferry to Starcross, and thence through Dawlish to Teignmouth and Babbicombe Bay, returning by rail. 4 . From Starcross to Powderham Castle and Exminster; or, 5. From Star- cross, by way of Mamhead to Chudleioh, are also agreeable routes, which the tourist may prolong or interrupt at pleasure, assured that he will not fail to strike into some fair green lane, or come upon some delectable “ nook of greenery.” For our notes on these places he will please to dip deeper into our little volume.] Of course we shall go up the river as far as Topsham, keep¬ ing our eye upon the right bank as we ascend it, and on the left as we return. Well, as we turn the point of land upon which Exmouth raises its pretty terraces, we catch a glimpse of the pleasant trees of Withycombe (see p. 100), on the high ground above, and about two miles further off Lympstone (population, 1107), with a good old Church, dedicated to St. Mary, whose tower was built in 1409. The manor formerly belonged to General Elliot, Lord Heathfield, “ the hero of Gibraltar.” The river is here about three quarters of a mile in width, and its banks are exquisitely beautiful. Its combinations of wood and water, of dim blue hills and grassy vales, are infinitely pictur¬ esque, and we wish we were sufficiently gifted with the poetical afflatus to be worthy of attempting a picture in words. Here is TOPSHAM (population, 2500), one of the oddest of odd English towns, straggling along the river-bank for a mile or so, with a sort of restless despairing motion as if it longed to get rid oi itself. Among many mean and squalid houses, some of a better class, however, are plainly visible, and a good effect is produced by the position of its Church, on the summit of a tall cliff, which starts abruptly from the river. It is an old building dedicated to St. Margaret, and contains memorials (by Chantrey) to Admiral Sir John Duckworth, d. 1817, who “forced” the passage of the Dardanelles, and his son, Colonel George Duck¬ worth, who fell at Albuera in 1811 From the churchyard some good views of the surrounding country, and of the various reaches of the river, may be obtained. 104 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. Topsliam was once the port of Exeter, and a very prosperous, dirty, bustling place; but since the formation of the ship canal it has grown poorer and cleaner, and laid itself out for visitors, to whom its agreeable position ought to recommend it. It still does a little bit of trade, however, chiefly in rope and paper- makiDg, and ship-building. The Clyst (which rises near Plym- tree, N.E.), here empties itself into the Exe. The river now suddenly contracts into a narrrow channel, scarce a quarter of a mile in width, and so, turning our prow to the south, we commence its descent, keeping as near as may be to the western bank, which is traversed by the South Devon Railway. The first village we reach is EXMINSTER (population, 1781), “ a pretty townlet ” in Leland’s time, and a pretty townlet now. But in Leland’s time it possessed an interest which it possesses no longer —“ the ruins of a manor-place embattled in the front.” This manor-place had been a great house of the Earls of Devon, and was the birth-place of William Courtenay, archbishop of Canterbury (1382-97). Exminster is a charming little nook: “ its quiet meadows, with the fat cattle about them, the tower of the village church rising from the trees, the roofs of the little village, the curling smoke, the broad river beyond, with the sail of a fishing-boat or slow-moving barge passing occasionally along—these, and a calm evening sky overhead, make a picture such as Cuyp would have loved to paint, or Bloomfield to describe.” A tiny stream, or “ riveret,” here helps to swell the waters of the Exe. POWDERHAM (population, 238), derives its name, we are told by some authorities, from the knight or noble who possessed it in the reign of Edward I., but more probably it gave its name to the family, and that name seems to be an echo of that of a Norman knight, one William de Ow, or Ou, who, after being very loyal to William I., proved a traitor to William II. At last he was accused of treason, and as he was defeated in a public combat at Salisbury by his accuser, who can doubt his guilt! From the Powderhams it passed to Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Essex, and as the dowry of his daughter Margaret devolved upon her husband, Hugh de Courtenay, Earl of Devon. He, iu POWDERHAM CASTLE. 105 1350, settled it upon his fifth son, Sir Philip Courtenay, the direct ancestor of the present noble owner. Powderham Castle (Earl of Devon) was originally founded by its Norman lord, and remodelled and strengthened in the fourteenth century. Leland describes it as a stout fortress, “ with a barbican, or bulwark, to beat the haven,” and during the Civil War it withstood two sieges—surrendering, on the last occasion, to Sir Hardress Waller, the Parliamentarian leader, March 1646. It retains something of its mediaeval character, but has been greatly modernized, and rather inconsiderately renovated. Among the art-treasures are—the Five Senses, by Teniers; Tribute Money by Rubens; Charles I. and Henrietta Maria, Vancbjck; and several charming specimens of our English Wilson. The Park (to which admission is readily granted) is nearly ten miles in extent, including the grassy slopes of the river side, and the richly wooded hills which rise towards the north-east On a lofty—nay, on the loftiest—knoll stands the Belvidere, erected in 1773 by Lord Courtenay, and strengthened with a hexagonal tower at each of its three angles. From this elevation an almost matchless prospect is commanded. The eye follows the windings of the Exe through a rich and fertile valley until the river is lost in the misty depths of the city of Exeter, above whose motley roofs towers the majestic Cathedral. Or it surveys the opposite bank, dotted with villages and gray old churches, and swiftly rising into a range of pleasant hills. Yonder is Nut- berry Court (Sir T. Drake), sheltered by the heights of Wood¬ bury ; there is Lympstone ; southward, where the Exe widens into the boldly-sweeping channel, stands the town of Exmouth. Turning westward, we look far across the Haldon hills, and exult in a noble prospect of vale, meadow, and bowery hollow. Just outside the boundaries of the park lies KENTON (population, 1961), with its Decorated Church, built of the ruddy Exminster stone, and lifting up its tower to the height of 100 feet. We drop down the river a mile or so to STARCROSS (population, 1278), so named, it is said, from a bygone wayside memorial, and famous now to the appetites of Exeter gastronomes for its shell-fish and oysters, which may here be eaten fresh from their beds near the mouth of the Exe. Since the establishment of the South Devon Railway it has sprung into some estimation as a watering-place, and is preferred by many to its mere preten- 106 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. tious and better-grown rival on the opposite bank. Its Church, dedicated to St. Paul, was built in 1826. Mamhead, Kenton, Aslicombe, Chudleigh, Dawlish, are all within easy distance. And now we round the point, pass from the Exe into the open channel, and steer a south-east course for Dawlish. II.—DAWLISH to DARTMOUTH. Exeter, 12 m.; Teignmouth, 3 m.; Torquay, 26 m. by rail. (14 m. by road.) DAWLISH (population, 3622. Inns; London, York, and Station)—lies in a cove formed by the projecting headlands of Langstone Cliff on the north, and the Parson and Clerk rocks on the south, and may fairly be characterised as one of the pleasantest places on the Devonian coast. Through the bosom of the valley which here opens out upon the sea runs a crystal rivulet, spanned by numerous bridges, and lined on each side by a broad border of smooth greensward. Above runs a row of houses and shops, many of them in their own snug little plots of garden-ground ; on the hill-slopes beyond are perched numerous fantastic villas, and the Strand and the Teignmouth road are gay with terraces, hotels, and “marine mansions.” In the Strand and up the valley towards what is called Dawlish waters, the climate has an almost Italian geniality, and the tender myrtle, the soft hydrangea, and other delicate plants, bloom freely in the open air. The best houses, however, which stand on the east and west cliffs, are con¬ siderably exposed in winter. The bathing at Dawlish is excellent ; and a long and ex- hilerating walk can be obtained along the firm sand beach, past the rabbit warren, and on to the mouth of the Exe, a distance of about two miles. A beautiful drive also may be taken up the valley, at the back of the town, between rows of elm trees, to the s ummi t, of Haldon, where an extensive view will repay the visitor. The Parish Church of Dawlish stands about half a mile west of the town. It was rebuilt from Mr. Patey’s designs, in 1824-5, and contains two monuments by Flaxman—to Lady Elizabeth Pennyman and Mrs. Chapman. There is a new Chapel of St. Mark in the town. A picturesque feature on the beach is the now disused Engine House of the South Devon Railway, built of red limestone, in the Italian style, with a noticeable campanile. It was intended at first to work the Devon line on the atmospheric TEIGNMOCTH. 107 principle, but its failure when put to the test caused the company to resort to the locomotive. The coast between Dawlish and Teignmouth is strangely pic¬ turesque, for huge masses of rock stand out detached from the parent cliff, and the imagination may easily fashion them into the semblance of unnatural monsters—demons of the deep it may be, petrified (for their sins) into their present fantastic forms ! A rare place for the pastimes of the mermaids— “To play With the mermen in and out of the rocks, In the purple twilights under the seal ” When the winds rush swiftly across the deep, it is wonderful to see the tumultuous waters leaping over these black barren masses—flinging columns of shimmering spray above them—now rolling over their summits, now receding from their very base— eddying, and whirling, and heaving, and sinking, and all this with such a roar and a rush, that it seems as if old ocean was convulsed with a Titanic struggle! Two of these isolated masses are absurdly known as “ the Parson and Clerk.” The railway follows the coast line with extraordinary closeness,—five times tunnelling through the cliff, and afterwards running along the coast upon a massive sea-wall. TEIGNMOUTH (population, 6751. Inns: Royal, Devon, Queen’s. Market: Saturday. Banks: National, Provincial, and Messrs. Watts and Co.) is situated on an open coast, close to the mouth of the river Teign. There is a good beach for bathing except when the east wind blows, when the breakers become dangerous. Its great attraction is the Den (or dune), a sand¬ bank between the sea and the town, which was once covered with “ divers houses and wine cellars,” and after remaining for many years a barren and unsightly waste, has been formed into a noble promenade a mile in length. At its western extremity stands a small lighthouse. Next in point of interest is the wooden Bridge which connects Teignmouth with the village of Shaldon, on the other side of the river. It was built in 1825-7, from the designs of Roger Hopkins, at a cost of .£20,000, and measures 1672 feet in length, and consists of thirty-four arches. It is the longest wooden bridge in England, and only surpassed in Europe by the Pont de Lyons, which is 1700 feet in length. Over the main 108 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. channel is thrown a swing bridge, which admits of vessels ascend¬ ing or descending the river. The view from this point, when the tide is up, is much to be admired :—“ the richly wooded valley through which the broad stream winds is backed by hills, reced¬ ing behind each other, till the distance is closed by the lofty Tors of Dartmoor. Looking downwards, the river, with Teign- mouth on one side and Shaldon on the other, is singularly pic¬ turesque ; and it is still finer and more remarkable if beheld on a bright night, when the full moon is high over the distant sea, and sends a broad path of lustre along the river, which appears like a lake closed in by the sandbank that then seems to be united to the opposite Ness,—and the white houses that lie within reach of the moon’s beams shine out in vivid contrast to the masses of intense shadow”— (Thorne). We love Teignmouth so well that we will deal tenderly with its Churches, both of which are in the worst possible style. St. James’ dates from 1805. St. Michael’s has a Norman south doorway, but otherwise is to be attributed to the skill and taste of a certain Mr. Patey (1831). Wandsworth is the only town we know of which has two churches as ugly as those of Teign¬ mouth. The Public Rooms, erected in 1826 by Mr. Patey, arp rather showy. An Ionic pediment supports a Doric portico, and within there is a spacious dancing saloon, said to be 63 feet long. The Quay was constructed in 1820 by Mr. George Templer, of the Haytor granite works. Vessels of 400 tons burthen can load here, and their cargoes are granite from Haytor, iron ore, man¬ ganese, and porcelain clay. The principal import is salt fish from Newfoundland. The history of Teignmouth is quickly told. It furnished seven ships and 120 men towards the expedition against Calais in 1347. It was burnt in 1340 and 1350 by French rovers, and in 1690 by M. de Tourville’s fleet, after their victory at Beachy Head. 116 houses and 11 ships and barks were then destroyed. The total loss was computed at £l 1,000, and “ briefs” were read in every church in England on behalf of the inhabitants. French Street, by its name, perpetuates the memory of this disaster. [Hints for Rambles. —1. All the rivers of Devon are lovely, hut, to our mind, the Teign is the loveliest. The tourist’s first day at Teignmouth, therefore, should be devoted to a sail up the river. 2. The second he may appropriate to an ercui- BABBICOMBE BAT-ST. MARY CHURCH. 109 sion, along the picturesque cliff-road to Babbicombe Bay and Torquay, visiting on his way Shaldon, where Lord Clifford has a beautiful villa, and RINGMOOR (pop. 337), a quiet leafy hamlet, about a mile above. It is right to mention that boating on this part of the coast is dangerous when sails are used. 3. Chudleigh, and its “ Pixies’ Cave” lies about 6 m. north-west. The best way to go there is by Bishop’s Teignton, Ideford, and Uqbrooke Park (Lord Clifford), returning through King’s Teignton. 4. To Newton Abbots is a five miles’ walk ; from thence to Tor¬ quay, about 7 m.; the cliff-road between Teionmouth and Torquay is a most in¬ teresting one, passing through Watcombe and Petit Tor, two pretty watering- places, lying contiguous, and within a mile of Babbicombe.] BABBICOMBE BAY" (2 m. from Torquay, and 4 m. from Teignmouth) is one of the loveliest nooks on all the British coast. We must admit, however, “ a saving clause ”—were the trim villas which now civilize the scene, and the snug hotels, and the neat gardens swept ruthlessly away, and the place once more abandoned to the simple grandeur of nature. Though these innovations have done much to injure its general effect, it still remains a scene of wonderful beauty ; with its lofty rocks, its beetling cliffs, and its masses of deep shadowy foliage. There is now quite a town of villas on the top of the cliff, and an elegant new church has been erected. ST. MARY CHURCH (pop. 4472) stands above the bay, and close to Torquay. It is a “ village of villas,” with a tall church spire in its centre. The Marble Works here are well worth a visit, and contain numerous specimens of the richly coloured marbles which the neighbouring rocks supply.* Half a mile further, and we come upon the Italianesque towers and terraces of Bishopstowe, the palace of the late Bishop of Exeter, now the residence of S. Hanbury, Esq. Immediately below is Anstis Cove, “ the most romantic spot from Sidmouth to the Dart.” It is a jagged ravine in the cliffs, wrought out, in the past by the action of some restless stream. On either hand, as if flung down at hazard by a weary giant, are scattered bold, dark rocks. To the left, a promontory of hardest marble has been rent by the sea into several ragged peaks, over which the ivy and the lichen clamber ; on the right a lofty hill struggles upward, clothed with coppice and brush¬ wood, and the rude gnarled trunks of elm, birch, and oak. Yet of all the peaceful places on the earth this is supreme, * The terra-cotta works of Watcombe, about a mile north of the parish church, are also rery interesting. 110 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH when the wind is not in the east. Silence reigns here on the pebbly shore, only disturbed by the whispering lips of the tiny wavelets. A steep winding road leads down to the sea-shore, and at a neat little cottage on the beach, visitors may supply themselves with boats, or with prawns, lobsters, and other marine delicacies. TOR BAY Is but half a mile further, and we shall soon catch sight of that famous harbour which can shelter a navy. Tor Bay is rich in many mighty memories, and in itself is one of the finest and most beautiful bays around the whole English coast. From north to south it stretches 4 miles, its coast line measures 12 miles, and its depth, in the centre, 3| miles. On the north side, beneath its protecting hills, nestles Torquay ; at the south ex¬ tremity Brixham and its fishing-fleet lie under the shadow of the majestic promontory of Berry Head. “ Between these distant points are two or three villages, with their church-towers, and all along are scattered cottages or villas, serving as links to connect the towns and hamlets. The coast-line is broken by deep inden¬ tations and projecting rocks. The shore rises now in bluff and rugged cliffs, and presently sinks in verdant and wooded slopes ; and behind and above all stretches far away, as a lovely back¬ ground, a richly diversified and fertile country ; while, to com¬ plete the glorious panorama, the bosom of the bay is alive with ships and yachts, and numerous trawls”— [Thorne). When the Bellerophon lay here with Napoleon on board (July 1815), the great soldier exclaimed, “ How beautiful a country ! It very closely resembles Porto Ferrajo in Elba !” Earl St. Vincent fre¬ quently brought his fleet hither, and on November 5, 1688, William, Prince of Orange, anchored in the noble haven. “Since William looked upon it,” exclaims Lord Macaulay, “ its aspect has greatly changed. The amphitheatre which sur¬ rounds the spacious basin now exhibits everywhere the signs of prosperity and civilization. At the north-east extremity has sprung up a great watering-place, to which strangers are attracted from the most remote parts of our island by the Italian softness of the air ; for in that climate the myrtle flourishes unsheltered, and even the winter is milder than the Northumbrian ApriL” From Lord Macaulay’s History of England , Chapter ix. Published I >tAA C HI ack.Ed i ribur^h - TORQUAY. Sonie of a illle B abbieomhe Bay Armey's Cove/ Ill TORQUAY. Hotels: Imperial (with ornamental grounds), on a height overlooking the hay; Torbay (on the shore), Torbay Road ; Victoria and Albert, Belgrave Road ; Queen’s ; Royal (both in the Strand). Private Hotels: Cumper’s, Torbay Road ; Osborne House, Hesketh Crescent; Atkinson’s, Belgrave Road. Population, 22,000. 186 m. from London ; 11 from Dartmouth ; 25 from Exeter. Banks, Devon and Cornwall; Vivian and Kitson’s ; West of England. Makkei Day, Saturday. Post Office : Torwood Street. This celebrated watering-place occupies the northern comer of Tor Bay, and is securely sheltered from all winds but that from the south-east. It is a town of villas, which, amphitheatre-like, stretch from the shore in terraces up to the higher grounds overlooking the sea. There is no particular feature to attract the eye of the new comer, unless it be the picturesque harbour called the Basin, where vessels of all sizes may be seen unloading their stores. The Basin has recently been much improved in appearance and rendered more useful to the town. The parades around it are spacious and well adapted for promenades. The best views of the town are to be had from the end of the pier, from Daddy Hole Plain above the Basin, or from Paignton, on the opposite side of the bay. The former will give the stranger the best bird’s-eye view of the various terraces and villas, while the latter affords the most extensive panorama of the town and bay. A drive to Watcombe and Babbicombe, returning by the “ new cut,” affords some very fine sea views. To the invalid, Torquay has many attractions. There is a cheerfulness in its general aspect that impresses the visitor favour¬ ably at first sight. If there is sun at all it is sure to bask on the terraced villas of Torquay: while the expanse of sea that stretches out in front gives an appearance of life to the prospect. In the way of recreations there is no lack. These include a natural history museum, libraries, a new theatre—and during the season both concerts and balls are held in the Bath Saloon. Regattas take place in summer, while the bay and harbour afford perfect security for the use of small boats. The public gardens on the Torwood Road, which include four acres of land, are taste¬ fully laid out in walks and shrubberies. The neighbourhood abounds with pleasant rambles, which can be enjoyed almost all the year round ; for in fact there is little winter here, and the pedestrian may pick up wild flowers in the month of February. The climate of Torquay is peculiar. On the shore it is soft and relaxing, but on the rising ground around tie harbour, and 112 TORQUAY. at St. Mary’s Church, the atmosphere though mild is at the same time bracing. An invalid, therefore, should be careful in selecting his lodgings. We give here a table of the mean tem¬ perature at certain stations, the result of a number of years ending 1869. Place. Jan. and Feb. Mar. and Apr. May and June. July and Aug. Sept. and Oct. Nov. and Dec. Year. Torquay ... 42-6 46*4 56*6 60*6 55*6 44-5 51*1 Bournemouth 41-4 46‘1 56*3 61*8 55*8 44*1 51*2 Vent nor 42'3 47*0 56*4 62*3 57*4 45*3 51*9 Clifton - 40 1 45*5 56*7 61*9 54*5 42*2 50*2 Jersey - 43 3 4S'0 57*0 62*3 57*3 46*5 52*4 London - 39-7 45*7 58*2 63*9 55-9 41*5 50*7 Liverpool - 41'3 45-1 56*6 62 0 55*0 43*4 51*0 Dublin ... - 41-2 45*0 54*6 59-2 53-1 43*0 49*3 Glasgow 38*7 42*6 53*4 57*6 50*4 40*0 : 47*1 Edinburgh - 37*7 42*5 53*1 58*0 50*8 40*3 47*1 But, as to the invalid, it is of more importance to know the difference between the greatest heat and the greatest cold during the day, we give below an extract from the Registrar’s report for 1863 of the following places, where it will be observed that Torquay holds the most favourable position :— Mean Daily range of Temperature. Place. January. February. March. April. May. Torquay - 6*2 6*7 9*6 11*1 12*8 Ventnor ... 6*9 7*6 96 10*8 11*2 Liverpool - 7*2 7*3 9*2 10*2 10*9 London - 11 1 11 *2 13*2 12*2 13*3 Bourr^moutli - 13*6 14*8 20*2 19*8 18*7 Underneath is another extract from the meteorological report for 1863, where Torquay appears to have fewer rainy days, but a greater fall than the Clifton district, and to be generally more Samp than Middlesex and Yorkshire :— Rainfall— I. Days it fell ; and II. Quantity fallen. Place. January. February. March. April. May. i. II. i. II. L a i. ii. i. II. Torquay ... 24 4.2 9 1*2 14 2*3 9 1-9 9 1*4 Clifton - - - 25 41 14 0*8 10 0 S 15 1 9 10 2*3 London ... 14 2*3 10 0*7 7 0 7 7 0 3 11 1*4 York - 20 2*8 5 0*5 15 u 9 0 6 10 1*0 TOR-MOHON. 113 The tourist should visit the Torquay Museum, Babbicombe Road, which contains an interesting collection of the animals and sea-weeds of Devonshire. Here also the result of Mr. Pengelly’s excavations at Kent’s Cavern are exhibited. The cavern itself is about 1-| mile farther on, and a small charge is made for admission. You enter through a low and narrow passage, 7 feet wide, 5 feet high, into a vast cavern, said to be 600 feet in length. A labyrinth of smaller caverns and winding corridors surrounds it. The roofs glitter with stalactites, formed by the dripping of water charged with lime, and the flooring is covered with a shining but slippery coating of stalagmite. A sombre pool of water, deep, dark, and cold, terminates the cavern. It was in this curious recess that Dr. Buckland dis¬ covered the bones of the rhinoceros and elephant, the lion, wolf, bear, and hyaena—beasts of prey which haunted the gloomy forests of pre-historic England until extirpated by the hardy Celts. These fossils cover the bed of the cavern to a depth of 20 feet, and are overlaid by a layer of stalagmite. Mingled with them lay arrow-heads and spear-heads—those rude iron implements which antiquarians have named Celts —charcoal, fragments of coarse pottery, and knives of flint. At llsharn, close to Kent’s Cavern, are some scanty ruins of a grange-chapel formerly belonging to Tor Abbey. The farm was once a residence of the Earl of Londonderry. Tor Abbey (R. S. S. Carey, Esq.) lies to the west of Torquay, a handsome modern mansion, rejoicing in the shade of some noble, limes. In the gardens stand the ivy-slirouded ruins of the old Praemonstratensian Abbey, founded by William de Bruere in 1196, and dedicated to St. Saviour, which was undoubtedly the wealthiest priory belonging to that order in England. The refectory is now converted into a domestic chapel; and a gate¬ way also remains, and a barn. The style of architecture seems to be that which is known as Decorated, but there is very little left to satisfy the antiquarian’s curiosity. The ancient village of TOR-MOHUN' (ror signifies a hill, or headland)—contains a fine old Perpendicular Chorch, the mother-church of Torquay. The memorials are principally to the Careys, temp. James I., but an effigy in full armour commemorates Ridgway, father of the first Earl of Lon- S.W. i 114 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. donderry. The octagonal font is Perpendicular. The west tower is embattled. Towards Babbicombe the botanist will meet with—Actinia crassicomis, Actinia nivia, and Actinia mesembryanthemum ; Tortula tortiosa and didymum ; Rhodymenia palmata ; Laminaria digitalis and saecharina ; Eolis coronata ; Delesseria sanguinea; Laurentia pinnatifida ; and Plo- camium coccineum. Along the beach, towards Paignton, the geologist may look for Echinus miliaris, Trochus ziziphinus, Asterrina gibbosa, Doris pilosa, Pholas parva, Pholas dactylus, and Anthea cereus. The cliffs, mainly composed of red sandstone or red conglomerate, are low, but abrupt, precipitous, and wave-worn into countless fissures, caves, and ravines. [Hints for Rambles.— 1. Through Cockington, 2 miles (Perpendicular Church), to the ruins of Compton Castle, 2 miles, an ancient seat of the Poles, and one of the finest examples of a fortified house in the west of England ; part of the chapel and a gateway-tower (fourteenth century) remain: continue to Berry-Pomeroy Castle (p. 269), 1 mile, and the village, 1 mile; turn eastward to Paignton, 4 miles, and return along the coast to Torquay, 4J miles = 141 miles. 2. By way of St. Mary Church to Babricombe,— visiting the landslip at Watcombe, and the beautiful inlet of Maiden Combe. Strike inland to COFFIN'S WELL (population 214), and return through Tor-Mohun = 10 miles. 3. Walk to Brixham, nearly 9 miles, through Churston Ferrers and Paignton. Return by boat—a most delightful sail. 4. Strike across the country to Newton Abbot (by way of Abbot’s Kerswell, East Ogwell, and Wolborough), 7 miles ; then, at Newton Junction, take the train to Teignmouth, and either walk back, 9 miles—or sail back. 5. A very enjoy¬ able drive (20 miles, time 5 hours) can be taken from Torquay to Berry Pomeroy Castle via Paignton, proceeding thence through interesting lanes to Marldon (Church House Inn) and back via Compton Castle, where a window in the towe is shown at which Sir Walter Raleigh and his brother are said to have smoked the first pipe of tobacco in England. Other excursions will readily sugge.-t themselves to a good pedestrian, and only a good pedestrian can hope to explore satisfactorily the beauties of Devon.] PAIGNTON (population, 3600) occupies an agreeable posi¬ tion almost in tbe centre of Torbay, and would be more popular with visitors but for the masses of strong-flavoured seaweed hurled upon its beach by easterly winds. Near its old and capacious Church —a Perpendicular building, dedicated to St. John, which contains a fine Norman doorway, a noble triple-arched screen of stone, and a stately statued tomh to Sir John Kirkkam and his wife—moulder the ruins of a palace of the Bishops of Exeter, where the good and great Miles Coverdale frequently resided. A tower, and some gray old walls, are the remains of its ancient glory. Paignton should be visited in the apple-blossoming season BRIXHAM. tin for the cider-apple is largely cultivated in the neighbourhood, and acre upon acre groan with luxuriant orchards. Cider is ex¬ ported from hence in considerable quantities, and a pier was con¬ structed in 1838 where vessels of 200 tons burthen can enter. Sweeping across the bay to its southern extremity, we soon come in sight of one of the wealthiest fishing-towns in England— BRIXHAM (pop. 5000. Inns: Globe, London, and Bolton). “In Norman times the town belonged to the Novants, and from them it passed in succession through several other noble hands. The present lords of Brixham are Brixham fishermen. The manor was purchased some time back by twelve fishermen ; these twelve shares were afterwards subdivided, and these have been again divided. Each holder of a share or portion of a share, however small, is styled ‘ a quay lord.’ If you see a thick bearded, many- jacketed personage, who carries himself with a little extra confi¬ dence in the market-place, you may be sure he is a Brixham lord.” About 200 sail of trawlers are now employed in the fisheries, of an aggregate tonnage of 25,000, and manned by nearly 1600 hardy and experienced seamen. The nets made use of are 70 feet in length. The cargoes thus obtained are despatched to London and elsewhere by the Great Western Railway. The town—a straggling and “ ungainly ” place—is divided into the Upper Town, or Church Brixham, on the south side of Berry head ; and the Lower Town, or Brixham Quay, upon the beach—“ a sort of Devonshire Wapping with a Billingsgate smell.” The Church, in the Upper Town, was built in 1824 ; the Pub¬ lic Room in 1835. The Pier was constructed in 1808, and a Breakwater commenced in 1843, which we fear will never be completed. In the neighbourhood there are three bone caves— one at Windmill Hill, another called Ash Hole, and a third dis¬ covered in 1861, which was rich in fossils. It was at Brixham—as an obelisk in the market-place records —that William III. landed, November 5, 1688. The block of stone on which he first set foot is preserved in the base of the monument, and a fragment of it, enclosed in a box of heart of oak, was presented to William IV. on his visit here in 1823. About two miles east of Brixham is the bold headland which protects Torbay from the south, called Berry Head. There is a good SDecimen of rock scenery ou the road which 116 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. follows tlie coast line round by Pudcombe Cove, but, we presume, most will choose the more luxurious route by rail to Kingswear ; by which we shall pass on our left the grounds and mansion of Lupton House (Lord Churston.) Half an hour’s drive from Torquay will bring the passenger within sight of the verdurous hills, slow-sloping to the river side, which enclose the “ English Rhine,”—the River Dart. “ The bay,” says Gilpin, “ which the river Dart forms at its mouth, is one of the most beautiful scenes upon the coast. Both the en¬ trance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the sea, appear from many stations closed up by the folding of the banks, so that the bay has frequently the form of a lake, only furnished with ship¬ ping instead of boats. Its banks, which are its great beauty, con¬ sist of lofty wooded hills, shelving down in all directions.” From the rapidity with which it swells, and its consequent perils, has arisen the old Devonshire superstition,— “ River of Dart! 0 river of Dart I Every year thou claimest a heart. ” The on-coming of the flood is betokened by the increasing blueness of the waters. It rises from the bosom of an abrupt hill, near Cranmere Pool, and amid the dreary solitudes of Dartmoor. Thence, under the name of the West Dart, it sweeps across a black, bare waste, and through a deep and narrow defile—bounded on either side by gaunt bleak tors —receiving several tributaries, and still in¬ creasing in its speed, until it is joined by the Eastern Dart. Excursion —Dartmouth to Totnes. A pleasant sail from Dartmouth to Totnes (12 miles) may be taken by steamer. By this means the visitor will best see the beauties of the Dart. The banks of the river, though not high, are covered with oaks which stretch down to the water’s edge. The steamer calls at Dittisham* (3 m.) and Duncannon (9 m.), and passes Sherboume House (Mr. Durant). Shortly after leav¬ ing Duncannon at a breach of the wall on the left bank, a dis¬ tinct echo is obtained from the wooded bank on the other side. * A rock in the middle of the river, here called the Anchor or Scold Rock, was used in ancient times by the men of Dittisham, as a peniten¬ tial station to place their unruly wives upon. DARTMOUTH. DARTMOUTH. 117 DARTMOUTH. [Population, 5338. Inns: Castle, Brown's Family and Commercial. AST A boat to and from Totnes daily, according to tide. 206 m. from London; 10 m. from Totnes; 17 m. from Newton Abbot; 13 tn. from Torquay; 25 m. from Plymouth; 7 in. from Start Point. Bankers —National Provincial Bank. ] The town originally consisted of three independent hamlets, Clifton, Dartmouth, Hardnesse, and the former is still an appendage of the parish of Stoke Fleming, the two latter of the parish of Townstall. A market was granted to Dartmouth by Henry III., and the privilege of “ mairalte,” or “ mayoralty,” by King John ; a privilege confirmed by Edward III. in 1342. In 1190 it was visited by the Crusaders’ fleet, and stormed by the French during the absence of Richard I. in Palestine. In 1338 the Dartmouth mariners captured five large French ships, and slew all their crews but nine. In 1347 the port contributed 31 ships towards the ever-memorable expedition against Calais, and thirty years later was again ravaged with fire and sword by the French. In 1403 a fleet of Dartmouth vessels engaged, cap¬ tured, and destroyed 41 sail off the shores of France. In the following year Sir William de Chalet and his freebooters made a descent upon the valley of the Dart, but were surprised by the Devonshire hinds, the leader, three barons, and 20 knights taken prisoners, and most of the common men slain. It withstood a month’s siege by Prince Maurice, September 3d to October 4th, 1643, but was finally compelled to surrender. Lord Fairfax re¬ captured it on a Sunday morning in the middle of January 1646 Newcomen, the engineer, who in some measure indicated to James Watt “ the way he should go,” was born at Dartmouth. Flavell, the divine, was buried there, in the Presbyterian church, 1691. At Sandridge, on the Dart, was born John Davis, the great Eliza¬ bethan navigator ; and it was from Dartmouth he sailed in June 1585 in command of the “Sunshine,” 50 tons, and 23 men, and the “Moonshine,” 25 tons, and 29 men; and again in May 1586, with the “Sunshine,” the “Moonshine,” and a large vessel of 120 tons called the Mermaid. In his third voyage, 1587, one of his ships was the “ Elizabeth of Dartmouth.” St. Saviour’s Church is a fine cruciform building, of Edwar¬ dian architecture, possessing a very rich and beautiful interior. It was consecrated by Bishop Brantingham. The oaken screen 118 FROM LYME KEG 13 TO PLYMOUTH. which formerly supported the rood-loft, and still separates the nave from the chancel, is graceful in design and execution. The pulpit of stone, elaborately enriched with wood-carvings ; the misereres ; the iron scroll-work on the great door, representing a spreading-tree with two leopards standing on its branches; and the altar-piece by Brockledon, are worthy of careful examination. A slab inlaid with rich canopies in brass, and figures of John Hawley, d. 1408, and his two wives, will recall the memory of that merchant knight who, in 1390, “ waged the navie of shippes of the portes of his owne charges, and tooke foure and thirtie shippes laden with wine, to the summe of 1500 tunne.” He throve and prospered so with his wealth that men said of him,— “ Blow the wind high, or blow it low, It bloweth fair to Hawley’s Hoe.” During the greater part of Henry IV.’s reign he represented Dart¬ mouth in Parliament; and Leland tells us that in his time vast ruins of the opulent merchant’s mansion were remaining in Dart- mouth-Hardness. Near the entrance to the harbour stands the small quaint church of St. Petrock, and on a point of land below it Dart¬ mouth Castle. Of its two towers the circular one dates from the reign of Henry VIII. The two platforms mount 12 guns. On the cliff stands a small fort called Gallant’s Bower, in allu¬ sion to the ancient entrenchments which surround it, and whose origin has been debated of by so many speculative antiquarians. The best explanation seems to be that which regards them as the arena of certain public games. Paradise Fort is further east. The bay will shelter, it is said, 500 ships, and is lined by busy quays and teeming dockyards. The exports are cider and barley ; the imports fruits, wine, salt, and oil from the Mediter- ranian, and salt fish and cod from Newfoundland. In the older part of the town a quaint effect is produced by the numerous gables and richly carved fronts of its Elizabethan houses—now rapidly passing away before u the march of improvement.” * As a whole, however, Dartmouth is scarcely an agreeable resting- place for the tourist. Totnes would answer his purpose better ; and, by the way, the voyage up the river from Dartmouth to Totnes is one of surpassing beauty. * Some remarkable old carved houses occur in Duke Street, notably those in “ The Butler Walk.” SLAPTON-STOKENHAM. 119 TOWNSTALL (population, 1350), J mile west, has a good old Church, dedicated to 8t.Clement (with a tower 70 feet high), which was fortified by the royalists during the Civil War with 10 guns, and defended by 100 men. Brook Hill (J. Devonport, Esq.) lies to the north. The gardens and grounds have an air of quiet beauty. Visit, while here, the neighbouring ruins of Kinoswear Castle. STOKE FLEM¬ ING (population, 662), about two miles south-west, may be visited for its ancient Church, which contains two fine brasses. ] DARTMOUTH to PLYMOUTH. [To Tor Cross, 7 m.; Start Point, 3£ m .; Prawle Point, 5 m. ; Bolt Head, 3 m. ; Bolt Tail, 5 m.; River Erme, 7 m. ; Stoke Point, 5 m. ; Plymouth, 6 m.] The breadth of sea included between the headlands of Froward Point, north, and Start Point, south, is called Start Bay. Soon after we have quitted Dartmouth the groves of Stoke Fleming appear in a bend of the coast, and as we sail slowly onward, the desolate tower of Poole Priory rises on its lonely hill. The gray slate cliffs are here precipitous and sullen. TOR CROSS, 7 miles, a small but pleasant watering-place, is next arrived at, and we may, if we will, walk along its smooth firm sands for fuR 3 miles. Separated from the coast by a narrow strip of land shimmers and rustles the broad expanse of Slapton Lea —a lake, 300 acres in extent, thronged with fish and wild¬ fowl, and fringed with a curious bordure of aquatic plants. SLAPTON (population, 681) itself is about 3 miles north. Its Church, dedicated to St. Mary, has early English characteristics, a good font, and a richly wrought screen. On the high ground, in the rear of Tor Cross, stands the Perpendicular Church of St. Barnabas, STOKENHAM (population, 1566), to which the tourist, if he lands at Tor Cross, should certainly pay a visit. Stokely House (Sir L. Newman, Bart.) is in this neighbourhood. Start Point is easily recognized by its lighthouse, which on the bluff bold headline lifts up “ its massive masonry.” Passing many coves and far-reaching ridges (of mica slate, sparkling with veins of quartz), we reach a dangerous projection of the gneiss— a confused heap of rugged weather-worn rocks, sharp and jagged as the teeth of some huge monster—known as Prawle Point, where her Majesty’s good ship Crocodile was disastrously wrecked. The shore here trends away to the north-east, towards the Kings- bridge creek. On the ascent stands PORTLEMOUTH. Crossing 120 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. the inlet, which is tidal as far as KINGSBRIDGE—(afterwards described), we catch sight of SALCOMBE, where Sir Edmund Fortescue held the castle for his king, and gallantly withstood a siege of four months—sweep over the north and south sands, and their petrified forest of hazels—and gladly round the lofty promontory of Bolt Head, where the mica slate, relieved in fissure and hollow by the purple heather and the yellow lichen, towers to a height of 430 feet. The coast for the next five miles wears an aspect of savage grandeur. Frequent landslips have riven it into a series of dark ravines and rugged headlands, where the sea-birds make their home, and the winds moan eternally as if in search of something loved and lost, and the ocean sends up the roar of its restless waters. It is a coast little loved by the mariner—except when the summer sea brightens gladly beneath the summer sun—for the howling billows of the channel, lashed into fury by a south¬ west wind, roll hitherwards with all the impetuosity of madness, and woe to the unhappy barque which they hurl against these unfriendly rocks. After leaving Bolt Head we pass, in succession, Stair Hole. Falcombe (perhaps Vale-combe). Saw Mill Cove. Colbury Down. Vincent Pits. Smuggler Ralph’s Hole. The Bolt Tail, where may be examined Ramillies-Cove, the scene of the wreck of H.M.S. Ramillies. We now enter Bigbury Bay, and steer at once for THURL- STONE (population, 460), and the mouth of the Avon, whose waters ripple round Burgh Island as they pass into the Channel. BIGBURY (population, 483) stands upon the hills, about 2 miles from the coast. The Church is dedicated to St. Lawrence, and contains a poor east window, an ancient font, a well-carved pulpit removed from Ashburton, and a brass to Dame Elizabeth de Bigbury. Beyond Beacon Point the Erme enters the sea, after a brief but romantic course through a wild and rugged country. Then the rocks become ruder and darker as we advance ; nature seems to abandon all her grace, tenderness, and tranquil beauty, to wear that stem and gloomy aspect which has always so peculiai an effect upon the mind. F-LTMD'X/Ti£ 3 D£y©flK)KT a S'rOf'iI>JOJIS2 ?. Seals ofYca'ds St oke j Tharuiots \Lake. wm CrraveseniL 1-it .Scdtram. Lower iff'Cold < JTotJiiH So- SXr.im ¥er<\' Ynr-th Cornu' ShU.Tff Jleadrnan C atd owtjL Turru-fuipej P* lastem Krntj F.' firestone Bay nKing Tn'ttlcnose F' *%* , ilowr Hooe I)un *t' Fdqeumbe • ir' 'i. I. PLYMOUTH. 121 Revelstoke Church stands on the coast like a beacon, worn by many a winter gale, and lone enough as it faces, day and night, the surging sea. Then we round the well-known Stoke Point, the eastern extremity of Plymouth Sound, pass the mouth of the little Yealm, which flows into the ocean between a double range of hills and the villages of NEWTON PERRERS (popula¬ tion, 670), E., and WEMBURY (population, 561), W.—where the Danes, in 851, were repulsed by Earl Cecil of Devon—and* so in due time find ourselves in sight of Plymouth. PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT. [Hotels in Plymouth: Royal, Duke of Cornwall, Globe, Navy, Harvey’s, Albion, King’s Arms, and Morice. Hotels in Devonport: Royal, London, Crown, and Prince George.] Population of the Boroughs. Plvmocth . St. Charles the Martyr . 25,225 St. Andrew . 43,533 Parliamentary Extension . . 1,333 Devonport . St. Aubyn .... . 6,843 Clowance .... . 10,215 Morice .... . 8,227 Stoke . 10,943 Tamar .... . 13,221 Stonehouse , . 14,585 - 64,034 Total, Plymouth and Devonport . 134,125 226 m. from London; 82 m. from Exeter; 24 m. from Launceston ; 30 m. from Boamin; 14 m. from Tavistock; 17 m. from Eddystone Lighthouse: 5 m. from Plymstock ; 6 m. from Brickleigh ; 9 m. from Buckland Monachorum ; 2 m. from Mount Edgeumbe; 5J m. from Rame Head; 4J m. from Saltash; and 11J m. from Whitchurch. Banks: Branch of Bank of England, Devon and ComwaU Banking Company, Harris and Co., Branch of West of England Bank. Market-days: Monday and Thursday.] In the sketch of Plymouth which w r e are about to attempt, we shall consider it as also including the town of DEVONPORT ; and, indeed, notwithstanding their independence as municipalities, they are simply separated by an inlet of Plymouth Sound, bear¬ ing the names, successively, of Stonehouse Pool, Stonehouse Lake, and Mill Lake. The two boroughs return four members to Par¬ liament, two for Plymouth and two for Devonport. 122 FROM LYME REGIS TO PLYMOUTH. Let us first, then, take a glance at Plymouth Harbour. To the south stretches out the long and formidable bulwark of the Breakwater, protecting it from the heavy seas rolled in by south and south-westerly gales. Passing into the smooth haven beyond, we come upon Drake’s or Nicholas Island, small and of mode¬ rate elevation, but, as a defensive work, of immense strength and importance. Here we may pause. On our right, at the extre- ‘mity of a small headland, bristle the guns of Mount Batten; on the left, the fortifications of Mount Edgcumbe and Cremill Point, while, before us, the whole line of the Hoe is defended by formidable batteries, the Citadel occupying the right-hand comer. Still keeping our position on Drake’s Island, we can clearly see that the Harbour and its inlets may, in some measure, be likened to a human hand with outstretched fingers, whose palm we may take to be represented by the Harbour itself, and the fingers by the inlets into which it branches. The thumb, on the right, is the Catwater, running between Mount Batten and Cat- down, and formed by the estuary of the Lara. The fore-finger points to Sutton Pool, whose extreme points are euphoniously named “ Bear’s Head ” and “ Fisher’s Nose ”: Queen Anne’s Battery is here the principal defensive work The second finger indicates Mill Bay, lying between the Hoe and Stone- house. At its farther extremity are the Great Western Docks. The third finger points to the far-reaching creek already spoken of as Stonehouse Pool, etc., which divides Stonehouse from Devonport. From Admiral’s Head, at its mouth, to Cremill, a ferry regularly plies. Three bridges connect Devonport and Stonehouse. The fourth finger represents the noble anchorage of Hamoaze, whose left or east bank is occupied with the Royal Dockyard, Gun Wharf, and Steam Yard. Beyond the latter Keyham Lake runs inland about 1100 yards. Between Tor- point, on the right or west bank, and Devonport, a steam-ferry has been established for many years. The Hamoaze is formed by the estuary of the Tamar. Plymouth and Devonport, there¬ fore, occupy an irregular square piece of ground between the estuaries of the Lara and the Tamar, nearly 5700 yards in width. Devonport proper is surrounded by a strong line of fortifications, and occupies the south-western angle of this piece of ground. It may roughly be described as a square, of about 1300 yards each way. PLYMOUTH. 123 Let us now consider the course followed by the South Devon Railway. Leaving Ford Park Gardens and the Cemetery ground on the right, it strikes in a southerly direction deep into the very heart of Plymouth, uniting, near Wyndham Terrace, with the Falmouth and Plymouth (Cornwall) Railway. The united lines then cross King Street, skirt (on the right) the Royal Botanic Gardens, and traverse Union road to their Terminus, whence a short branch (for Government purposes) runs along Mill Bay to Mill Bay Pier. The Cornwall Railway, after crossing Keyham Lake, winds through Morice Town and Lower Stoke, crosses Mill Lake near its junction with the little river Plym, and unites with the South Devon Line. [The best idea of Plymouth and its “ belongings" will be obtained by the way¬ farer who adopts the following route:—Let him start from Jubilee Street at the head of Sutton Pool, and thence make his way by the New Wharf, Love Street, Whimple Street, Bedford Street, and Frankfort Street, into High Street, passing the railway, and at the end of Stonehouse Lane, turning to the right, cross Mill Lake. He must then diverge (left) into Paradise Row, passing the Military Hospital, and strike into Fore Street, Devonport, whence, by way of Queen Street, he will reach the Gun Wharf. Keeping now to the north, he passes by the head of Moon's Cove to the Steam Factory and Keyham Lake, returning by Brandreth Terrace, Union Terrace, Queen Street, and DockwaU Street, for a peep into the Dockyard. Then, by way of Mount Wise and its seven Barracks and St. George's Square, he may escape from Devonport, cross Stonehouse Bridge, and descend through Chapel and Dumford Streets into the Royal William Victualling Yards, after which, Mill Bay and the Great Western Docks may be visited. Keeping past the Barracks into Lansdowne Place, the Esplanade, the Promenade, the Hoe, the Citadel, and Lower Fort, demand examination; and then the wearied pedestrian will return by way of Athenaeum Street into Union Street, and so complete his perambulations. Excursions may afterwards be made to Oreston and Hove; to Mount Batten ; Salt- ram (Earl of Morley); the Breakwater; Drake's Island; Mount Edgcumbe; Cremill; tnd the Eddystone. ] 124 PLYMOUTH. " Plym christeneth that Town which heares her noble name; Vpon the British coast, what ship yet ever came That not of Plymouth heares ?—where those brave Navies lie, From cannons’ thund'ring throats that all the world defie." Drayton. There is no seaport in England which has a higher interest for Englishmen than Plymouth. It is more especially the great national harbour—the principal nursery of our fleets ; and its unrivalled advantages of position and scenery, as well as the romantic and stirring nature of its history, invest it with an importance which none of us can undervalue. Leland, quoting from a MS. of Henry II., tells us that it was then “ a mene thing as an inhabitation for fischars,” hut its advantageous situation on the inner shore of a noble hay, formed by the influx of the estuaries of the Lara and the Tamar, and its immense capabilities of defence, pointed it out at an early period as the proper seat for a great naval station. In the days of Saxondom “ the fischar village” was known as Tamar Weorth ; after the conquest it was called the South-Town, or Sutton (Sudtone) ; in Edward I.’s reign, the north portion was called Sutton-Prior , and the south portion Sutton-Valletort, because the former belonged to the monks of Plympton, and the latter to the lords of Valletort; but in 1439, the town was at length incorporated by the style and title of “ The Mayor and Commonalty of Plymouth.” The rising town had already attracted the notice, and aroused the jealousy of the French. On the 20th May 1339, seven ships at anchor in Plymouth Harbour were burnt by eighteen French pirate vessels, but the rovers had sore cause to regret their raid. The men of Devon gathered together under stout Earl Hugh, then eighty years of age, sounded trumpets and drew swords, and with a loss of eighty-nine gallant hearts, repulsed the enemy and slew five hundred. Six or seven years later they were able to contri¬ bute towards Edward III.’s great expedition 325 ships. In 1350 the French made another attempt upon Plymouth, but finding it strongly defended, contented themselves with destroying the farms and fair places in the neighbourhood. In 1377, a few days after the death of the great Plantagenet, they landed and set the town on PLYMOUTH. 120 fire ; and in 1403, “ the Britaines, under the conduct of the Lord of Cassils,” burnt 600 houses. The men of the west, in revenge, carried fire and sword along a vast extent of the French coast. Pedro Nina, with forty “ Spaniard vessels,” was repulsed from Plymouth in 1405, and this was the last occasion of a descent by a foreign foe, for De Ruyter and his victorious fleet, after the insult at Chatham in 1667, sailed by triumphantly, but without daring to attack the town ; and in 1779, the combined French and Spanish fleets, under M. de Orvilliers, consisting of sixty-six sail of the line, paraded ostentatiously off Eame Head for two or three days, but made no attempt to enter the harbour (June 5, 6, and 7). On this occasion, however, “ the Ardent, sixty-four guns, commanded by Captain Boteler, standing down channel, fell in with the enemy’s fleet, and mistaking it for the British, was surrounded and captured in sight of Plymouth” — ( Campbell's Naval History). Royal Visits. —In 1355 the Black Prince, the most illus¬ trious hero of British chivalry, was detained at Plymouth forty days before he set out on the expedition which terminated with such splendour at Poictiers ; and it was at Plymouth that he afterwards disembarked with his captives, King John and the Dauphin of France. Catharine of Arragon landed here, October 2, 1501, and was “ grandly received with much feasting and rejoic¬ ing,” by Lord Brook, the Earl of Surrey, and Duchess of Norfolk. The Spanish chronicler says the port was called “ Salamonte”— a perversion of “ Plymouth” which it is difficult to understand. From Plymouth Sound, in April 1506, Philip the Fair and Joanna, King and Queen of Castile, gladly sailed away homeward, after having been “ hospitably,” but unwillingly detained at Henry VII.’s court for three months. From hence departed Don Antonio, titular King of Portugal, with an English fleet under Drake, the Earl of Essex, and Sir Henry Norris, April 8, 1589, much to the annoyance of Elizabeth, who directed Norris and Drake to insist upon the return of Essex. The expedition failed in everything, except in illustrating the courage and endurance of Englishmen. Charles I., with 100 ships and 6000 men, came here in 1625, and remained ten days. Charles II. visited the fortifications in July 1671. King George III. made a royal progress up the Sound in 1789, and in 1815 the mighty Napoleon was brought hither a prisoner on board H.M.S. “ Belleronbon.” which anchored 126 PLYMOUTH. in Cawsand Bay. The Queen has also been one of the royal visitors of Plymouth. Expeditions. —In the great days of the great Elizabeth, Ply¬ mouth became the rendezvous of her daring navigators, and the port from which those bold discoverers started, who planted the Cross of St. George in nearly every “ nook and comer” of the world. Of these famous adventurers we may name :—Sir John Hawkins, in 1562 and 1563 ; Sir Francis Drake, 13th December 1577 ; Captain Edward Fenton, May 1582 ; Sir Humphrey Gilbert, 11th June 1583 ; Thomas Cavendish, 21st July 1586 ; Richard Hawkins, 13th June 1593 ; Howard of Effingham, Earl of Essex, and others, 3d June 1596. And it was in the Sound the great body of the English fleet awaited tidings of the invincible Armada. Howard of Effingham, Drake, and Hawkins, had under their command 120 sail, when, on the 20th July 1588, news was brought them of the approach of their powerful enemy —“ the ships appearing like so many floating castles, and the ocean seeming to groan under the weight of their heavy burdens ”—( Lediard). Other memorable expeditions, which but to mention will bring to the tourist’s mind a thousand glowing memories of perilous seas, and far-off isles, of piny groves and worlds of ice and snow, started from Plymouth in the following order :—Wallis and Carteret, August 1760 ; Commodore Byron, June 1764 ; Captain Cook, July 1772, and again, on his last and fatal voyage, 1776. Sundry Occurrences. —The grandest of the English barons, King-making Earl of Warwick, landed here in 1470. Sir Lewis Stukeley, “ a kinsman and friend,” arrested Sir Walter Raleigh on his return from Guiana in 1618, a mile or so beyond the town. In 1620 the famous Mayflower, with the Pilgrim Fathers aboard, touched at the port on her way to the New World. “ New Plymouth,” in the United States, still proves by its name the depth of affection felt by those brave hearts for the land which they left “ for conscience’ sake.” During the civil war, while the men of Stonehouse were staunch Royalists, the men of Plymouth were stoutly Parliamentarian, and successively repulsed Prince Maurice, Sir Richard Grenville, and Colonel Digby (1643, 1644, and 1645). Mount Edgcumbe was garrisoned by a Royalist force, but Colonel Hammond compelled its surrender on the 21st March 1646. PLYMOUTIT. 127 As the sun set on the 17th of August 1657, it witnessed the death of one of the truest and bravest of English sea-kings— Robert Blake, returning on board his flag-ship, the St. George, from his victory at Teneriffe. He had sent for his chief officers to bid them farewell, and even while they listened to his dying words, the leafy hills of Devonshire came in view. “ As the ships rounded Lance Head, the spires and masts of Plymouth, the wooded height of Mount Edgcumbe, the low island of St. Nicholas, the rocky steeps of the Hoe, Mount Batten, the citadel, the many picturesque and familiar features of the magnificent harbour, rose one by one to sight. But the eyes which had so yearned to behold this scene once more, were at that very instant closing in death. Foremost of the victorious squadron, the ‘ St. George’ rode with its precious burden into the Sound ; and just as it came in full view of the eager thousands crowding the beach, the pier-heads, the walls of the citadel, or darting count¬ less boats over the smooth waters between St. Nicholas and the docks, ready to catch the first glimpse of the hero of Santa Cruz, and salute him with a true English welcome, he, in his silent cabin, in the midst of his lion-hearted comrades, now sobbing like little children, yielded up his soul to God ”— (Hep worth Dixon). The present Citadel, at the east end of the Hoe, and partly on the site of the old fort, was constructed in 1670-1. What we now call Devonport, and what was formerly called Plymouth Dock, first sprung into existence in the reign of William III. It had grown to such dimensions, that it fully deserved incorpora¬ tion as an independent town, when that privilege was conferred upon it, January 1, 1824. Martin Frobisher, one of the Elizabethan sea-chiefs, died at Plymouth in 1594. John Hawkins, the bold bluff seaman, his contemporary, was bom here in 1521, d. 1595 ; and so were Northcote , the artist, 1746, d. 1831 ; Haydon, 1786, d. 1846 ; Prout, 1794, d. 1852 ; and Sir Charles Eastlake, 1793. Among other eminent natives we may name— Carrington, the poet; Joseph Glanville, an erudite believer in the mysteries of magic and witch¬ craft ; Jacob Bryant, antiquarian and philologist ; and William Cookworthy, a Quaker, who discovered porcelain clay in Corn¬ wall, and introduced to miners the use of the divining-rod. Since the reign of Henry IV., the borough has not ceased to return two members to Parliament. 128 PLYMOUTH. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. The Breakwater is situated at a distance of 1850 fathoms south of the citadel at Plymouth, and has on either hand a good channel which admits the egress or ingress of the largest ships at any time of the tide. Between its noble wall and the north shore forty sail of the line, besides smaller vessels, can ride in safety. It was commenced in 1812, at the recommendation of Earl St. Vincent, and under the direction of Rennie, and for thirty-four years absorbed the daily labour of 200 men. About 4,000,000 tons of granite were made use of at a cost of .£1,582,000. Its length is 1700 yards, with two arms or wings, 350 yards long, which trend towards the north at an angle of 120°. The width at the base varies from 300 to 400 feet,—at the summit is only 15 yards; the depth varies from 80 to 40 feet, according to the inequalities of its foundation; and a.t the high water of spring tides, it rises but 2 feet above the ocean- surface. The Lighthouse, at the west end, of white granite, 55 feet high, and 114 feet diameter at its base, was constructed in 1841. At the east end stands a beacon, erected in 1845, with a hollow globe for the rescue of shipwrecked seamen. From the Breakwater one’s sail may be extended to the Mewstone, a vast pyramidical rock, rising abrupt and sheer out of the yeasty waves, oif the mouth of the river Yealm. It is inhabited by a whole world of aquatic birds. To the unmilitary eye there is little of interest in the low and fort-crowned Island of St. Nicholas, which we pass on our return to the Harbour. It has been also called St. Michael’s Island and Drake’s Island : the former, from a small chapel dedicated to St. Michael which once rose upon its summit, and where General Lambert, the roundhead, was buried in 1683; the latter, from some association with the old Sea-King which Time has neglected to preserve. In 1548, when “Bluff King Hal” was dotting the sea-board of his kingdom with small round towers, he despatched an angry letter to the Mayor of Plymouth and his brethren, “ marvelinge of their unwillingness to procede in the fortifyinge of St. Michaelles Chappele to be made a bulwarke, when the suretie of so small a thinge might assure them againste all attemptes ; and when they alledge the pluck - inge downe of that chappele harde to the foundacon, they were OBJECTS OF INTEREST-PLYMOUTH. 129 answered, the same Deinge made upp againe with a wall of turfe should be neither of less afecte or strengthe (for a meane strengthe for such a place sufficed), or yet of such greate coste as they in¬ tended; an^d, therefore, eftsones the Lordes desired them like good subjectes, according to their former letteres (all excuses set aparte), to goe in hande with that worke accordinglie, as they might therby be esteemed, that they tender the Kinge’s Ma tie ' 3 pleasure, and their owne sureties and defence cheifeste.” After this peremptory “wigging” his Majesty’s pleasure was duly attended to. The island and its fortifications, during the civil war, were held by the Parliamentarians, though on two occasions it was nearly betrayed into royalist hands. Harrington, the author of “ Oceana,” was imprisoned here in 1662. Its formidable defen¬ sive works are of great importance, as commanding the entrance to the Sound. It is about 3 acres in extent; half a mile distant from Stonehouse ; and connected with the south-west shore by a range of low rocks, the Bridgi ’’mpassable even at high water, except for the smallest and lightest craft. The Royal Victualling Yard. —Having visited the won¬ ders of the Sound we return to Plymouth, and proceed to inspect the Royal Victualling Yard at Cremill (or Crumble), or, as it is often called, Devil’s Point. Vast excavations have here been made in the bold and rocky promontory, in order to obtain an area large enough for so great an establishment. The architect and engineer was Rennie; the cost, .£1,500,000 ; and its erection occupied from 1826 to 1832. You approach it by a road lead¬ ing along the neck or isthmus which connects Cremill Point with the mainland. “ A large and handsome gateway,” sur¬ mounted by a colossal statue of William IV., admits you into a range of substantial quadrangular buildings, covering, with the courts, an area of 15 acres. The sea-wall is 1500 feet long. Here are carried on those cleverly-combined processes, invented by Mr. Grant, by which the navy biscuits are supplied with astonishing economy, ease, and rapidity ; and here upwards of 150 employes are constantly engaged in the various avocations connected with victualling England’s fleets. The Biscuit Baking deserves a word or two of detail:—In an upper range of buildings millstones, worked by steam, grind the corn into flour, which descends through a shoot into a kind of covered box. Into this box a small stream of water perco¬ lates, and a shaft armed with long steel blades speedily whirls (s.w.) k 130 PLYMOUTH. aud tosses the flour and water into dough, at the rate of 5 cwt. in 2 minutes. Then the consistent mass is kneaded on a table, between two ponderous rollers, into a layer, 2 inches deep, which by another machine is cut into hexagonal biscuits, and reduced to a proper thickness. The biscuits (6 to the lb.) are punctured, stamped, hurled into huge ovens—112 lbs. at a time—baked, counted into bags, and stored away until wanted. The Hoe.—The Citadel. —The Hoe, Hawe, or Hough (a hill) is a considerable elevation, partly clothed in verdure, which completely overlooks Mill Bay and the Sound. At the east end stands the Citadel, consisting of three regular and three irre¬ gular bastions, two ravelins, and homworks, and mounting about 120 heavy guns. The Lower Fort, beyond it, was designed by Captain Homeck. It is said that Drake and Howard of Effingham, the Lord Admiral, were playing “at bowls”—then the fashionable pas¬ time—on the Hoe, when the tidings arrived of the approach of the great Armada. The men who gathered there on that memorable day, July 19, 1588, a day long celebrated by the corporation, who then donned their scarlet robes and bestowed cake and wine upon their guests, have been graphically sketched in the eloquent pages of ‘ Westward Ho !’ “ Those soft long eyes and pointed chin you recognise already; they are Sir Walter Raleigh’s. The fair young man in the flame-coloured doublet, whose arm is round Raleigh’s neck, is Lord Sheffield; opposite them stands, by the side of Sir Richard Greville, a man as stately even as he, Lord Sheffield’s uncle, the Lord Charles Howard of Effingham, Lord High Admiral of England; next to him is his son-in-law, Sir Robert Southwell, captain of the Elizabeth Jonas; but who is that short, sturdy, plainly-dressed man who stands with legs a little apart, and hands behind his back, looking up with keen gray eyes into the face of each speaker ? His cap is in his hand, so you can see the bullet-head of crisp brown hair and the wrinkled forehead, as well as the high cheek-bones, the short square face, the broad temples, the thick lips, which are yet firm as granite. A coarse plebeian stamp of man; yet the whole figure and attitude are that of boundless determination, self-possession, energy; and when at last he speaks a few blunt words, all eyes are turned respectfully upon him, for his name is Francis Drake. “ A burly grizzled elder, in greasy sea-stained garments, con¬ trasting oddly with the huge gold chain about his neck, waddles OBJECTS OF INTEREST-PLYMOUTH. 131 up as if lie had been born and bad lived ever since in a gale of wind at sea. The upper half of bis sharp dogged visage seems of a brick-red leather, the lower of badger’s fur; and as be claps Drake on the back, and with a broad Devon twang shouts, ‘ Be you a-coming to drink your wine, Francis Drake, or be you not 1 —saving your presence my lord,’ the Lord High Admiral only laughs, and bids Drake go and drink bis wine ; for John Hawkins, Admiral of the port, is the patriarch of Plymouth seamen, if Drake be their hero. “ So they push through the crowd, wherein is many another man whom one would gladly have spoken with face to face on earth. Martin Frobisher and John Davis are sitting on that bench smoking tobacco from long silver pipes; and by them are Fenton and Withrington, who have both tried to follow Drake’s path round the world, and failed, though by no fault of their own. The man who pledges them better luck next time, is George Fenner, known to ‘the seven Portugals,’ Leicester’s pet, and captain of the galleon which Elizabeth bought of him. That short prim man in the huge yellow ruff, with sharp chin, minute imperial, and self-satisfied smile, is Richard Hawkins, the Com¬ plete Seaman, Admiral John’s hereafter famous and hapless son. The elder who is talking with him is his good uncle William, whose monument still stands, or should stand, in Deptford Church”— {Kingsley). And here we close our quotation, a lengthy one, we admit, but one which our reader will assuredly peruse with satisfaction as he stands on Plymouth Hoe, and faces the fresh cool wind. While in this vicinity we may pass on to the Barbican, where Bishop Stafford erected a strong fort in the reign of Edward HI., and which was supplemented by a circular blockhouse in 1591. We may then, by way of New Street, proceed to the Esplanade, and admire, if we can, the statue of George II. which there defies the elements. Returning to the Hoe, we quote, according to fashion, Spenser’s allusion to “ The Western Hoe besprinkled with the gore Of mighty Goemot, whom in stout fray Corinseus conquered, and cruelly did slay.” Corimeus was a Cornish giant, and quickly disposed of Goemot, with a Cornish hug. Two figures of club-upholding giants, carved upon the sward, handed down the tradition as late as the days of Elizabeth, and when the foundations of the present 132 PLYMOUTH. citadel were excavated in 1670, the fossil remains turned up by the labourers were pronounced by the wise citizens of Ply¬ mouth to be the giant’s teeth and all-devouring jaws. Perhaps from this point we may as well make our way along the Sutton road, and across Cat-down, which is rapidly being covered with a superior class of houses, to the limestone quarries of Oreston, and the famous Lara or Lary Bridge thrown across the Lara where it widens into the Catwater (Cat, cad, a river). The Lara is said to derive its name from the gull (Jarus), by which its waters are still frequented. It is a clear, gleaming, lake-like pool, fed by the Plym, and bordered by the hanging groves of Saltram (Earl of Morley). The bridge, built by Mr. Bendel, in 1824-7, at the expense of the Earl of Morley, is really a very elegant and satisfactory structure, consisting of five elliptical arches of cast-iron, springing from abutments and piers of stone. The roadway is 500 feet long, 24 feet wide, and in the centre 22 feet above the high water of spring-tides. The centre arch is 100 feet span, the adjoining arches, 95 feet; and the side-arches 81 feet. Saltram (Earl of Morley) lies about 4 miles north-east of Plymouth, and its park is conspicuous for the luxuriance of its foliage and the changing beauty of its landscapes. The house, a stately handsome building, temp. George II., erected on the rise of a sloping lawn, 300 acres in extent, and backed by a glorious depth of leafiness, extends on the west side 170 feet; on the south and east sides 135. The interior is richly fitted up, and adorned with a good collection of works of art and vertu. The Library contains some of the finest specimens imaginable of Sir Joshua Reynolds: —the Earl of Morley and his sister, the Hon. Mrs. Villiers, as children; M. E. Parker, Esq.; Hon. Mrs. Parker and son, William, Marquis of Lansdowne, John, Lord Boringdon, in a shooting dress, leaning against a gate, in a rural landscape—one of Sir Joshua’s few attempts at landscape-painting; Mrs. Abington as Prue, in Congreve’s comedy of “ Love for Love;” Kitty Fisher, as Cleopatra; Mrs. Greenwood playing upon a guitar; and others. The Red Drawing-room contains:—St. Faith, Guido ; Galatea, with nymphs and tritons, Domenichino ; Virgin and Child, Sassoferrato ; and specimens of Wouvermans, Jordaens, Van Both, Borgognone, and Salvator Rosa. In the Blue Room: —Landscape and cattle, Berghem; Adoration of the Shepherds, Carlo Dolce; Marriage of St. Catharine, Coiieggio; OBJECTS OF INTEREST- PLYMOUTH. 133 Flight into Egypt, Gaspar Poussin. In the Billiard Room :— Helena Forman, his second wife, by Rubens; Landscape and figures, Teniers; Queen Elizabeth, Janssen. In the Dining¬ room, besides specimens of Zucchi and Zuccherelli, are,—The Bacchanals, Titian, a marvel of form and colour; Holy Family, Baroccio; Sir Thomas Parker, Janssen; Virgin teaching St John to read, Guercino; a group of figures, Paolo Veronese; the Bolingbroke family, Vandyck; Venice, Canaletti; Holy Family, and Christ and St. John, Mengs; Rubens’ three wives as Huntresses,—the game by Snyders, the figures by Rubens; a bust of the Earl of Morley, by Nollekens; and a superb buhl- table presented by Louis XIV. to the haughty Sara, Duchess of Marlborough. A Hebe, by Canova; the assumption of the Virgin, by Sabbatini, from the church of La Morte at Bologna, and some historical subjects by Angelica Kaufmann, adorn the Great Staircase. George III. and the royal family were entertained at Saltram by the late Lord Boringdon from the 15th to the 27th September 1789. On the 18th, a grand naval review took place at Ply¬ mouth, which was attended by the king and his suite. A pleasant way of visiting Saltram is by water, stopping at the river-lodge, and ascending to the house through winding shrubberies. At Oreston the limestone cliffs reach an extra¬ ordinary height, and there is a cave in the quarries 20 feet long, 10 feet high, 70 feet wide, and 35 feet below the ground, which contains a complete “ museum ” of the fossil bones and teeth of elephants, hysenas, tigers, and other beasts of prey. The jaw of a horse encrusted with stalagmite was also found here. DEVONPORT. We alight at the Military Hospital, four separate blocks of buildings, built in 1797, when a terrible number of deaths occurred on board a fleet of transports anchored in the Sound, because there was no accommodation for the invalids on shore. The Royal Naval Hospital, on the opposite bank of Stonehouse Creek, covers 24 acres, and contains 1200 beds ; it was built in 1762. The bridge just above was erected at the expense of Lord Mount Edgcumbe, and Sir John St. Aubyn. Mount Wise, its barracks and official residences, next attract our wandering steps. It is a sort of sister hill to the Hoe, and commands a fine view of the Sound and Harbour. Do not turn 134 PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT. northward, however, for the streets of Devonport are not pecu¬ liarly attractive. But to the north-west lies the Dockyard ; and beyond it shines and shimmers “ the broad and beautiful Ham- oaze,” —that is, the dwelling by the Ouse,—4 miles long, half a mile wide, with moorings for 92 line-of-battle ships, and a depth of water varying from 15 to 20 fathoms at different tides ; huge ships laid up “ in reserve,” rest on its placid bosom. To the south-west rises the wooded ascent of Mount Edgcumbe, with its ancient trees, its noble mansion, and its winding paths. The long crooked promontory of Crehill, or The Devil’s Point, loaded with the buildings of tLe victualling-office, stretches to the south-east, and beyond it bristle the fortifications of Drake’s Island, and the Breakwater raises its long low wall above the waters. Eastward the eye alights upon the points of Mount Batten, Catdown, the Citadel, and the Hoe. Everywhere there are signs of England’s imperial power, her maritime strength, her restless energy, her wealth, enterprise, and solidarity. An Englishman may well be content to take a foreigner to the sum¬ mit of Mount Wise, and point out the life and motion of the scene around ; and may, perhaps, be forgiven the discourtesy of the quotation if he murmurs in his friend’s ear,— “ Britannia needs no bulwarks, No towers along the steep; Her path is o’er the mountain-waves, Her home is on the deep!” DOCKYARDS in their general features so closely resemble one another, and in our companion volume (on Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire) we have treated so fully of the characteristics of Portsmouth, that we may, perhaps, be excused from dwe llin g at any length upon the vast establishment at Devonport. A naval arsenal was established here in 1689, but it only began to assume its present proportions in 17 61. A new dock was opened in 1771 ; and Lord Egmont recommended a con¬ siderable enlargement, at a cost of about ,£380,000. From that date the growth of DEVONPORT DOCKYARD has been rapid, and it is now one of the most important establishments in the kingdom. It is inclosed from North Comer to Mutton Cove by a wall of slate and limestone 30 feet high ; from north to south it extends half a mile, and about a quarter of a mile from east to west; it covers 96 acres, and employs 2560 workmen at an OBJECTS OF INTEREST—PLYMOUTH. 135 annual cost of nearly .£156,000. The Steam Factory at Key- ham employs 625 men. The annual salaries of the officers of the yard at Devonport amount to nearly £24,000. The shore line of the Dockyard measures 3500 feet. The sea-wall, supported by piles 60 feet in depth, was begun in 1816. The entrance is in Fore Street, and the visitor then passes into a wide open court bounded on each side by buildings, amongst them, the admiral-superintendent’s house, the chapel, the guard¬ house, pay office, and surgery. The chapel, built in 1700, is large and unpretending. [The principal features of the Dockyard are these :— The Five Docks.— Feet long. Feet broad. Feet deep. 1. New Union, built in 1762 . 239 56 26 2. New North, built in 1789 . 272 56 27 3. 8outh Dock, built by William III., and since enlarged 261 65 2S 4. Head Dock, built by George III. .... 223 52 26 ft. Stem Dock, built by George III. . . . 192 52 26 Gravino Slip, adjoining the Camber 169 69 Alterations now in progress will construct a dock 400 feet long, so as to be capable of admitting ships of the largest class. II. The Chain Cable Storehouse, built in 1844-8, cost nearly £40,000. About 650 ihain cables are generally kept here, ready for immediate service. Hie Anchor Smitherv fronts the Anchor Wharf, and is 210 feet square. Forty- eight forges and Nasmyth’s steam-hammer combine to produce a scene which for clash, clangour, and lurid glare, recalls to the imagination a Cyclopean pandemo¬ nium. “Flickering large fires on every side of you, in a vast and dimly-lighted buildiig; steam-worked bellows urging the fires to their utmost degree of fierceness; eolumis of smoke floating and rolling about; masses of red-hot or white-hot metal being tonveyed from one part of the building to another; shapeless fragments of iron being wrought into flat slabs, and flat slabs into anchors and other ironwork for shipping; thumping blows administered to the heated metal; swarthy and brawny men moving about in the dusky space, their bodies thrown into relief by furnace fires behind them,—all form a very striking spectacle, and one which is not soon forgotten ”— (Thorne). In fact, there is a peculiar force and impressiveness about the ancior. We know that however stout the hull and tall the mast,—however proudlyour gallant ship may “ walk the waters like a thing of life,”—when seas roll high, anl winds sweep the black, dense clouds across the heavens, it is the anchor on whicl our hope, our trust depends. III. The New Rope House is built of iron ; the Spinning Houses, of limestone, three states high, and each 1200 feet in length; the Rigging Houses are two ranges of sheds480 feet long, forming one side of a quadrangle, while the other sides are occupiedwith store houses. The Camber, a canal 70 feet long, and spanned by an iron swing-bridge, communicates with the Boat Pond. Then there are mast-houses, timber-bisins; tiinber-sheds; saw-pits; building-slips for men-of-war, frigates, and corvettes; reservoirs; smitheries; mould or model-lofts—many of which are not thrown cpen to the public, and those which are, exceedingly curious and interest¬ ing, but levertheless somewhat wearisome to examine. IV. A neat gravel path winds through pleasant pnstures of flowers up to a small 136 PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT. mound, whose summit is crowned by a plain pavilion. This is Kino’s Hill. It was visited by George III. on one occasion; and the good monarch, delighted with the view or the busy dockyard which it commands, requested that a battery of five 9-pounders planted on it might be removed, and the mound kept free from the labours of excavators and builders. A few trophies are preserved in the pavilion. V. Keyham Steam Factory is connected with the dockyard by a tunnel 909 yards in length. The first stone of this extensive establishment was laid by the Earl of Auckland in 1846. The entrance is from Morice Town (so named from Sir William Morice, who purchased it in 1667). It occupies a sort of peninsula between Keyham Lake, the Hamoaze, and Moon's Cove, and, when completed, will be the largest establishment of the kind in the world. Its cost, we suppose, will not be much less than a million and a half. There are three vast docks, faced with granite, and fitted with caissons:—1. The south dock, is 370 feet by 80; the 2d, 307,1 eet by 80; and the 3d, 307 feet by 80, but 4 feet deeper. The South Basin has an area of 6 acres, a quay line of 1570 feJt, and measures 600 feet by 450 feet. The North Basin will measure 1000 feet by 450, and boast of a quay line of 2240 feet. The Factory is a small town in itself. Fancy an area of 800 feet by 350, covered with an iron roofing, and echoing with the ceaseless din of hammers I Its two chim¬ neys are each 180 feet in height. Its two engines are each of fifty-horse power. The shears can raise a mass ■weighing sixty tons. All the docking and repairing of the Government steamers will be accomplished at Keyham. VI. Between the dockyard and Keyham lies the Gun-Wharf, whose utility will, of course, be understood by the spectator at a glance. It occupies five acres of ground. In the Store Houses all kinds of muskets, bayonets, swords, pist«ls, cutlasses, and pikes, are disposed in that quaint and fanciful manner which serins proper to an armoury, and the waBs actually glitter with radiant crowns and wreaths, stars, columns, and diamonds, of deadly weapons. In the open spaces between the Store Houses are methodically arranged pyramids of cannon balls gun- ■-arriages of various shapes, and rows of polished cannons. A Steam-Ferry Bridge, worked by two engines, plies between the dockyard and Tor Point, on the Cornish shore. It measures 60 feet by 50 feet, and wa con¬ structed in 1834. VII. Devonport is enclosed by a line of fortifications, with a ditch 12 feit to 20 feet deep, excavated from the solid limestone in 1755 to 1756. There are Three Gates, —the Stonehouse, leading to Plymouth, the Stoke Barrier towards Taristock, and the North Barrier, opening on the Tamar. The King’s Interior Boundary Wall, 12 feet high, was begun by the Duke of Richmond in 1787. The Block House, with its ramparts and ditches, occupies an elevated position in Higher Stoke. It was constructed by order of George II. In order to obtain a clear idea of the fortifications of Devonport and P.ymouth —either of those completed, those in course of tonstruction, or those projected—the tourist should endeavour to secure the services of an intelligent officer of .he royal engineers, and make a tour of the town accompanied by him. A men verbal description in these pages would simply embarrass him and ourselves, aid occupy an amount of space which we could ill afford. ] PUBLIC BUILDINGS in PLYMOUTH and DEVONPOET. We promise the tourist to deal with him gently if le will bccompany us in a rapid survey of the architectural and ecclesi- PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN PLYMOUTH. 137 apical peculiarities of the two towns. Nobody goes to a busy sea-port town with any expectation of beholding art-combinations of marble, stone, or brick. Where Bellona holds her court, the Graces are not disposed to exhibit their gentle beauties ! Apollo’s “ reedy pipe” is mute when the trumpet of Mars rings out its terrible music ! And here we drop our mythological comparisons to invite the tourist’s attention to the most noticeable block of buildings in PLYMOUTH,—the Theatre, Assembly-Room, and Royal Hotel, forming portions of one handsome pile, raised at a cost of £60,000, from Mr. Foulston’s designs, in 1811-18. Its extreme length is 275 feet, and the general style Ionic. The Athenaeum was designed by the same architect, and the Ply¬ mouth topographers consider it “ a very fine example of the Grecian Doric order,”—in which opinion it is to be hoped the tourist will coincide. It was built in 1818-19. The Guildhall has its attractions for others than the public-spirited townsman. It contains some tolerable pictures—especially Hoppner’s portrait of George IV. when Prince Regent. Another classical erection is St. Andrew’s Chapel, designed by Foulston, and built in 1823. The pulpit, we are told, is modelled after the Choragic monument of Lysicrates !—an effort of “ high art” which ought to be duly appreciated. The oldest Church in Plymouth is St. Andrew’s, consisting of a nave, chancel, and west tower,—the latter built by T. Vogge in 1440. It contains Chantrey’s monument to Dr. Woolcombe, d. 1822, a liberal benefactor to the town, and a memorial to Charles Matthews, the elder, d. 1835, whose simple epitaph runs as fol¬ lows :— “ Charles Matthews, Comedian, born 28th June 1776; Died 28th June 1835. Comcedia lugit; scena eat deserta. 1 Alas ! Poor Yorick ! ’ ” The church of King Charles the Martyr was commenced in 1646, and completed at the epoch of the Restoration. The spire was added in 1765. There are, besides, Christ Church, Trinity Church, St. Peter’s, St. James’, King Charles’ Chapel-of-Ease, and Sutton-on-Plym, —all of which are recent, and, sooth to say, uninteresting structures. In reference to other public edifices in Plymouth we shall content ourselves with pointing out the dates of their erection,—• 138 PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT. The Exchange, in 1818. The Cnstom-House, at a cost of £8000, in 1820. The Mechanics’ Institute, 1825. The Union Baths, 1829. The Natural History Society’s Rooms, 1829. The Freemasons’ Hall, 1832. The Hospital, 1838. The South Devon Railway, opened April 2, 1849. The Dartmoor Railway, 25 miles long, connecting Button Pool with Prince-Town, opened in 1820. Crossing into DEVONPORT we make at once for Fore Street, near which are all the principal Public Buildings. The Post Office was designed by Wightwick, and, in some respects, may remind the observer of Sir John Soane’s work at the north-west angle of the (London) Bank of England. The Town Hall pre¬ sents “ a bold and chaste” Doric elevation, imitated by Foul- ston (who died in 1842) from the Parthenon at Athens. It cost X2900, and was built in 1821-2. The principal chamber is 75 feet by 40 feet, and contains portraits of Georges L, H., and HI., William IV., and Queens Charlotte and Caroline. The pre¬ sence of the latter may account for her husband’s absence. The Library, designed by Foulston, and erected in 1823, has a heavy Egyptian character. The adjacent Chapel, Mount Zion, is a curious combination of the Saracenic and Hindu ; it was opened in 1824. Close to these edifices rises the Column, a Doric pillar of Devonshire granite, about 100 feet in height, built at a cost of ,£2750, on a solid mass of rock 22 feet above the level of the ground, and designed to commemorate the change in the name of the town from Plymouth Dock to Devonport. The Churches are these :— St. Aubyn, dating from 1771 ; St. John’s, 1799 ; St. Peter’s, 1830 ; Holy Trinity, 1841 ; Christ Church, 1846 ; St. Paul’s, 1850 ; St. Mary’s, 1854 ; and St. James’, Moricetown ; St. Stephen’s ; St. Michael’s. STONEHOUSE, which was originally called Hippeston, and took its present name from its lord, Joel de Stonehouse, temp. Henry III., has two Churches : St. George’s, erected in 1789, and St. Paul’s, from Foulston’s designs, in 1831. THE EDDYSTONE. One of the most popular excursions to be made from Plymouth is a sail on a sheeny summer day to the celebrated LIGHTHOUSE at the EDDYSTONE. The history of the Eddystone is a remarkable one, and serves, to use a hackneyed phrase, as a forcible illustration of the “ in¬ domitable energy” of man. THE EDDTSTONE. 139 A line of rocks, 12 miles distant from the shore, stretches between the Start and Lizard, 600 feet across the Channel, and collecting the raging waters of the Atlantic around it, creates a whirl and a restless motion which have suggested to seamen the significant name of the Eddy-stone. Upon one of these, which, at low water, jusj; raises itself above the ocean-level, a certain Henry Winstanley, a man of singular mechanical ingenuity, contrived in 1696, to raise a wooden lighthouse. It was 100 feet high, had numerous quaint projections, and an open gallery at the top through which, in nautical parlance, a high sea would have carried a six-oared galley. Winstanley, however, believed in its stability, and expressed his hope that he might be within it on the occasion of a terrific storm. His wish was granted ; while effecting some alterations, on the night of November 26th, 1703, a fearful gale arose, and the next morning there remained no vestige of the lighthouse, but a few rugged stones and a frag¬ ment of iron chain ! To this catastrophe the poet Gay refers :— . . “ Fam’d Eddystone’s far shooting ray That led the sailor thro’ the stormy way, Was from its rocky roots by billows torn, And the huge turret in the whirlwind borne.” Mr. John Rudyerd, a silk-mercer of Ludgate Hill, then re¬ solved to attempt the construction of a more durable building. Choosing the frustrum of a cone for his model, he built up five courses of heavy stones upon the rock, and thereupon erected a superstructure of wood, simple, unornamented, and free from pro¬ jections and open galleries. The whole was 92 feet high. It was begun in 1706 and completed in 1709. For years it admirably answered its beneficent purpose; but about two o’clock on the morning of December 2, 1755, some Cawsand Bay fishermen, and the look-outs on board Admiral Westrode’s fleet—then at anchor in the Sound—gave the alarm that the Eddystone Light¬ house was on fire. Like a cone of living fire—a real pillar of flame—a shaft of radiant and confiscating light—it burnt for day and night, until by December the 7th only a few cramps of blackened iron remained. The keepers were discovered, after the fire had lasted about eight hours, crouching, stupified with alarm, in a recess on the eastern side of the rock. One of them, named Henry Hall, an old man of ninety-four years of age, while gazing on the flaming mass above him, saw a shower of molten HO VICINITY OF PLYMOUTH. leail descend, and felt that some of the fiery drops passed down his throat. The physicians could hardly credit his story, hut after suffering extreme anguish for twelve days, he died ; and on opening his body seven ounces and five drachms of lead were found in the stomach ! Mr. Smeaton, the great engineer, was now applied to by Government, and taking the tall shapely trunk of a forest oak for his model, he commenced the erection of what has ever since been regarded as one of the most beautiful structures of the kind on the 1st of June 1757, and completed it on the 24th of August 1759. It is a circular tower of stone, sweeping up with a gentle curve from the base,—where it is set in a socket 3 inches deep in the solid rock—and gradually diminishing towards the summit. Its total height above the masonry is 85 feet 7 inches. To the summit of the lantern, 61 feet 7 inches. Diameter at the base, 26 feet 9 inches. Diameter at the top of the masonry, 19 feet 9 inches. Diameter below the cornice, 15 feet. Height of the solid masonry, 13 feet. Height of the cornice, 62 feet. It terminates with a lantern, having a gallery around it, and au iron balustrade. The difficulties of the work were great, and one incident oc¬ curred which was certainly unexpected. Smeaton himself relates the story :—“ Louis XIV. being at war with England during the proceeding with this building* a French privateer took the men at work upon Eddystone Rock, together with their tools, and carried them to France, and the captain was in expectation of a reward for this achievement. While the captives lay in prison, the transaction reached the ears of that monarch ; he immediately ordered them to be released, and the captors to be put in their places, declaring that though he was at war with England, he was not so with mankind. He therefore directed the men to be sent back to their work with presents, observing that the Eddystone lighthouse was so situated as to be of equal service to all nations having occasion to navigate the channel between England and France.” The light is attended to by three men, the number having been increased after the detention of a keeper for some days * This occurred during the erection of Rudyerd’s Lighthouse. MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 141 with the body of a dead comrade, without being able to obtain assistance from the shore. Each man receives his rations and a fair monthly wage (£3 to £5), and is only chosen if he can pro¬ duce an unexceptionable character. They enjoy their holidays in urn,—a deputy taking the place of the absentee. On the stone over the east side of the lantern is inscribed: “ 24 Aug. 1759, L aus Deo,” and on the course of granite under the ceiling, which e a circles the upper store-room, runs the homily— “ Except the Lord build the house, They labour in vain that build it.”—P salm cxxvii. Mount Edgcumbe. * Mount Edgcumbe is undoubtedly the loveliest spot in the immediate vicinity of Plymouth. As Garrick exclaimed— “ This mount all the mounts of Great Britain surpasses, ’Tis the haunt of the Muses—this mount of Parnassus,”— and as it rises gently from the sea—a mass of living verdure— a sloping hill embowered in arbutus, myrtle, and laurustinus, crowned with pine and chesnut—laced round with pleasant paths, and dappled with soft swift shadows,—it assuredly exhi¬ bits a grace, a beauty, and even a majesty of its own. The Mount is the extreme end of a promontory, 4 to 5 miles in length, and 3 miles in breadth, and has been sedulously culti¬ vated into an extensive and admirably attractive pleasure garden. The Mansion, a castellated Tudor-building, of red sandstone, was built by Sir Richard Edgcumbe in 1550, but an octagonal tower at each angle has taken the place of the original round towers, taken down in 1762. The Hall, in the centre of the building, rises to the second storey, and is adorned with Doric columns and pilasters of Devonshire marble. The pictures are chiefly family portraits, and include four by Sir Peter Lely, viz.: —that heroic Earl of Sandwich, who was blown up with his ship in the great fight at Solebay, 28th May 1672, and whom Bishop Burnet has finely characterized as “ a gentleman adorned with all the virtues of Alcibiades, and untainted by any of his vices ; of high birth, capable of any business, full of wisdom, a great commander at sea and land, and also learned and eloquent, affable, liberal, and magnificenthis wife, the Countess of * Boat from Admiral’s Hard, fare 6d. 142 VICINITY OF PLYMOUTH. Sandwich ; their daughter, Ann Montague ; and her husband, Sir Richard Edgcumbe, M.P. There are also four by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The Pleasure Grounds are arranged in three distinct gar¬ dens—the English, French, and Italian—and absolutely glow with fountains, vases, busts, and statues, the lucent marble shin¬ ing with exquisite relief against its background of glossy foliage. The Conservatory, 100 feet in length, was designed by the notorious Lord Camelford. Of the mimic ruins scattered through the grounds it is best to take no heed. They are but sorry accessories to a scene which nature has so bounteously enriched. From every point the views are of great extent, and of wonderful interest and animation ; especially from the south side of the hill, which is an abrupt and craggy cliff, planted with luxuriant evergreens. Midway down runs the Great Terrace, and the whole face of the rock is covered with winding walks, which open upon the finest vistas imaginable. It is said that as the Invincible Armada swept by, and her haughty leaders divided among themselves the spoils of England, the Duke of Medina Sidonia, gazing on this beautiful spot, imme¬ diately selected it for his own share. And the Spanish grandee shewed a very excellent and discriminative taste in doing so. When a French invasion was apprehended in 1779, the then Earl of Mount Edgcumbe cut down his finest trees, but happily nature is rapidly repairing the injuries his folly inflicted. George III. was here in August 21,1789, and we believe the Mount has been visited both by the Queen and the late Prince Consort. About 4^ miles from Plymouth, on the western bank of the Hamoaze, stands SALTASH (population, 1900), where, in the Civil War, many hard blows were dealt each other by Roundhead and Cavalier. Among the representatives of the borough (dis¬ franchised in 1832) have been the poet Waller, and the great Earl of Clarendon. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is old but interesting. Above the town the Tamar has all the characteristics of a noble wood-fringed lake, and it is here crossed by the famous Albert Tubular Bridge* (of the Cornwall Railway), one of the most magnificent conceptions of an engineer, whose mind actually revelled in great ideas—the lamented Brunei. Its length is 2240 feet, its breadth 30 feet ; from its foundations to Best seen by small boat from Devonport., 2s. ALBERT TUBULAR BRIDGE. 143 its summit it rises 260 feet, and a stately man-of-war, with all her canvas set, could pass uninjured under its noble span. It consists of 19 spans, each of double chains composed of 15 bars ; the two central spans, resting upon a main central pillar driven into the solid rock through 70 feet of sea and 20 feet of soil, extend 900 feet. The lower span carries the railway, the upper, of wrought iron, is firmly attached to it. The main piers, on each side of the river, are 11 feet square, of solid masonry, and 190 feet from base to crown. 2700 tons of wrought iron, 1300 tons of cast iron, 14,000 cubic yards of timber, and 17,000 cubic yards of stone, were employed in the erection of this wonderful bridge. It was opened with much pomp on the 2d of May 1859, by H.R.H. the Prince Consort. We have thus completed our voyage along the southern coast of beautiful Devon, and we must transport our companion and ourselves bodily across the county to commence an exploration of its northern shore. But for the convenience of the visitor to Plymouth we shall, as usual, indicate those places in its neigh¬ bourhood which are most worthy of a visit. [Hints for Rambles.— 1. Excursions maybe made to rocky Mount Batten, the Lara Bridge, and Oreston Quarries, —a day’s sail of infinite beauty and variety ; or, 2. to Boviband Bay, and thence, across the Sound to the Rame Head, Penlee Point, Cawsand Bay, Maker (St. Maria) Church, nearly 400 feet above the sea, and Mount Edgcumbe. 3. A long but pleasant day may be enjoyed in a sail up the Tamar, to the Weir Head, 22 m., drinking there a libation to the spiiit of the stream. “ By breezy hills, And soft retiring dales, by smiling lawns, Bold headlands dark with umbrage of the groves, By towns, and villages, and mansions fair, And rocks magnificent, the potent rush Of the mysterious Ocean has impell’d Our bark to-day."—( Carrington). The Morwell Rocks, near the Weir, will specially excite the voyager’s admiration, but the whole course of the river is through a fairy land of singular enchantment. 4. To Tavistock is a walk of 13 miles, but such a thirteen miles as few English counties can equal. If the tourist does not feel weary, he may—after a draught of some “ barley wine, the good liquor,” as old Izaak Walton calls it, “our honest forefathers did use to drink of; the drink which preserved their health, and made them live so long, and do so many good deeds"—cross to New Bridoe, and follow, as near as may be, the course of the Tamar down to Beer Ferris ; from thence, returning into Plymouth by way of St. Budeaux. This is a walk for a stout pedes¬ trian. Ho who is weak about the knees should return from Tavistock by rail. 5. There is pleasant scenery on the Totnes road, and the tourist should not fail to visit the old stannary town of Plympton, and its ruined castle, Brixton. Yealmpton, Ugborough, and South Brent, returning by rail. 6. At Plymstocr, 144 FROM HARTLAND TO LYNTON. about 4 m. on the Dartmouth road, there are some pretty rural views. The walk should be prolonged to Wembury. 7, and lastly, Ivy Bridge, on the Ertne, la 7 m. from Plymouth, and whoever goes there once will wish to go there again. Along the Coast of North Devon. HARTLAND to LYNTON. [Hartland to Clovelly, 8 m. ; Bar Harbour (for Bideford), 11 m. ; Baggy Point, 6 m.; Morthoe, 4 m.; Morte Point, 1 m. ; Bull Point, 2 m.; Ilfracombe, 3 m.; Combe Martin, 4 m.; Martinhoe, 5 m. ; Lynton, 4 m.] A small brook marks the boundary line between Devon and Cornwall, and gives name to the picturesque little village of WELCOMBE (population, 209). From Welcombe to HART¬ LAND (population, 2183), the waters dash against an impene¬ trable barrier of lofty cliffs, riven into curious fissures, and spotted with lichens and ivy. At Hartland Quay a few cottages cluster about the beach, and the fishing-boats lie moored under its curved pier. The coast is dangerous, and the sea continually frets and seethes about the sunken rocks. The Point, a swarthy headland, 350 feet high, is the promontory of the Tyrian Hercules, alluded to by the old geographer Ptolemy. Upon Milford beach a bright and shimmering cascade falls in three bold leaps ; and beyond rises the semi-conical height of St. Catherine’s Tor, where the ruins of a Roman villa were discovered some years ago. It once stood inland ; but time has been silently at work, and separated it from the mainland—a stout and gray old wall still standing upon the grassy sward. Hartland Abbey (Sir G. Stucley, Bart.) is a stately man¬ sion, reposing, amid luxuriant woods, on a green and pleasant valley-slope. Of the ancient monastery—founded by the Conn- HARTLAND ABBEV. 145 tess Elgitha in grateful commemoration of the escape of hex husband, Earl Godwin, from shipwreck, and dedicated to St. Nectan, in whose interposition she believed,—the present man¬ sion embodies the Decorated arched cloister, built by Abbot John of Exeter. The effigy of a Crusader is also preserved. The park was formerly famous for its numerous herds of deer. The family of Stukeley has long been established in this part of Devon. One of its members, Sir Thomas Stukeley, temp. Eliza¬ beth, “ a gallant and courtly knight, well practised in the wars,” planned the colonization of Florida ; and another, Sir Lewis Stukeley, was the false friend and treacherous kinsman who damned himself to eternal infamy by his betrayal of Raleigh. The voyager, as he sails along this romantic coast, cannot fail to be struck with the admirable beauty of its ferny combes and leafy hollows, each opening through its gorge of down and rock, upon the gleaming waters of the Western Sea. “ Each is like the other, and each is like no other English scenery. Each has its upright walls, inlaid of rich oak-wood, nearer the sea of dark-green furze, then of smooth turf, then of weird black cliffs, which range out right and left far into the deep sea, in castles, spires, and wings of jagged iron-stone. Each has its narrow strip of fertile meadow, its crystal trout-stream winding across and across from one hill-foot to the other; its grey stone mill, with the water sparkling and humming round the dripping wheel; its dark rock pools above the tide mark, vdiere the salmon-trout gather in from their Atlantic wanderings, after each autumn flood; its ridge of blown sand, bright with golden trefoil and crimson lady’s finger; its grey bank of polished pebbles, down which the stream rattles towards the sea below. Each has its black field of jagged shark’s tooth rock, which paves the cove from side to side, streaked with here and there a pink line of shell sand, and laced with white foam from the eternal surge, stretching in parallel lines out to the westward, in strata set upright on edge, or tilted towards each other at strange angles by primeval earthquakes; such is the ‘ Mouth,’ as those caves are called; and such the jaw of teeth which they display one rasp of which would grind abroad the timbers of the stoutest ship. To landward, all richness, softness, and peace; to sea¬ ward, a waste and howling wilderness of rock and roller, barren to the fisherman, and hopeless to the shipwrecked mariner”—■ (Kingsley.) One of these is named Maryland Mouth, and will (s. w.) L 146 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. be recognized by the tourist as tlie scene of the interview between the “White Witch” of “Westward Ho!” and the “Rose of Torridge.” It is the only one where a landing for boats is practicable, and is protected from the sweeping billows of the Atlantic by a long barrier of rock. At night, the sea-waters gleam here with multitudinous life— “ The lamps of the sea-nymphs, Myriad fiery globes, swim heaving and panting, and rainbows, Crimson, and azure, and emerald, are broken in star showers, lighting Far through the wine-dark depths of the crystal, the gardens of Nereus, Coral, and sea-fan, and tangle, the blooms and the palms of the ocean.” The Black Church rocks have been fretted by the sea into large natural arches, through which a skiff may safely pass. All along the coast there is much to rivet the attention, and when Clovelly (New Inn)* is seen, hanging, as it were, to the side of a steep but luxuriantly wooded hill, the tourist’s admiration rises to a climax. It is almost difficult to discern the houses, so thick is the leafy screen in which each is environed. The street resembles a winding staircase, each house representing a step, and is probably the most precipitous in England. Yet the view from “ the house tops ” is picturesque in the extreme, and from some points it seems as if the blue sea were inclosed in a frame¬ work of oak leaves. The stone pier was built by George Carey, in the reign of Richard II., and was enlarged about seventy years ago. From the pier-head a most picturesque view of the town and cliffs is obtained. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the herring, sole, and mackerel fisheries. It was from this port, after remaining three days at Clovelly, that Rowland Stephenson, the fraudulent banker and M.P. for Leominster, escaped, with his clerk, in a skiff to Milford Haven (January 2, 1829), and thence to North America. Stephenson was the original, we believe, of Richard Crawford, in Bulwer Lytton’s novel of “ The Disowned.” Clovelly Dikes occupy a lofty position near the coast, on the Bideford road. A Roman via which, in parts, may still be * Remarkable for Mr. Berriman’s collection of old china. CLOVELLY COURT. 147 traced, ran from hence to Launceston, showing that the old men- of-war of imperial Rome appreciated the commanding position of the British camp. The three trenches vary from 18 to 20 feet in depth ; the diameter of the outer trench is 1300 feet, the inner one forms a parallelogram of about 360 by 300 feet. Gallantry Bower is the remarkable name given to a steep and lofty cliff, which overlooks a glorious landscape; its height is 380 feet. Inland lies Clovelly Court (Sir J. H. Williams, Bart.), a well-looking mansion, erected in 1780. The grounds, of great beauty, are thrown open to the pedestrian, who wanders amid lichen-covered crags, shadowy glens opening suddenly upon the sea, and rich ferny combes, the fitting haunts of Titania. The park was once famous for its hawks—“ a Clovelly hawk against the world ! ” and is still rich in the music of its birds, and the light and odour of its wild flowers. We shall not pause to notice each romantic glen, each spark¬ ling and shimmering waterfall, each rough and craggy rock that lend a strange weird charm to this wonderful coast. As the voyager glides along he will find at every point some rare and curious object. If he lands and examines the rocky hollows he will find a world of life in each. “ Living flowers, Which, like a bed compact, Their purple cups contract, And now, in open blossom spread, Stretch like green anthers many a seeking head.” Southey. The varying strata, and their peculiar contortions, will be¬ come the study of the geologist. While for the artist there are such picturesque effects, such wonderful contrasts of light and shade, such delectable bowers and happy recesses, that his pencil need never be idle. And now we have reached Bideford, or Barnstaple Bay ; the mouth of the river Torridge, and the harbour of the once wealthy town of Bideford (pronounced Biddyford) (pop. 6969. Hotels: Tanton’s Family ; Commercial), 242| miles from London by rail, and 9 miles from Barnstaple. Crossing the bar which obstructs the mouth of the haven, and ascending the river, we soon catch sight of “ the little white town of Bideford, sloping upwards from its broad tide-river, paved with 148 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. yellow sands, and many-arched old bridge where salmon wait for Autumn floods, toward the pleasant upland on the west. Above the town the hills close in, cushioned with deep oak woods, through which juts here and there a crag of fern-fringed slate ; below they lower, and open more and more in softly-rounded knolls, and fertile squares of red and green, till they sink into the wide expanse of hazy flats, rich salt marshes, and rolling sand hill s, where Torridge joins her sister Taw, and both together flow quietly toward the broad surges of the bar, and the everlasting thunder of the long Atlantic swell. Pleasantly the old town stands there, beneath its soft Italian sky, fanned day and night by the fresh ocean breeze, which forbids alike the keen winter frosts, and the fierce thunder heats of the midland ; and pleasantly it has stood there for now, perhaps, 800 years, since the first Grenvil, cousin of the Conqueror, returning from the conquest of South Wales, drew round him trusty Saxon serfs, and free Norse rovers with their golden curls, and dark Silurian Britons from the Swansea shore, and all the mingled blood which still gives to the seaward folk of the next county their strength and intellect, and, even in these levelling days, their peculiar beauty of face and form”— [Kingsley). The town and manor remained with the Grenville, Grenvil, or Grenaville family until 1734. Its streets are broad, and slope towards the beach. Most of the houses have slate roofs, and few of them have any architec¬ tural pretensions. For though vessels of 500 tons burthen can ascend the river—except at ebb tides—and unload or load at the quay, Bideford is no longer the great seaport of the west, and one can hardly believe that, in the Elizabethan days, it furnished seven ships to fight the Armada, and, a century later, “ sent more vsssels to the northern trade than any port in England, saving (strange juxtaposition !) London and Topsham.” Then the numerous inns which looked out upon the river were crowded with bold seamen-adventurers and Devonshire gentlemen ; and Bridgelands Street, now a row of insignificant houses, was a double range of plethoric tobacco-stores. Then the Pool was choked with Virginian traders, and Bideford burghers, “ bolstered und blocked out of their own houses by the stock-fish casks which filled cellar, parlour, and attic, were fain to sit outside the door, a silver pipe in every strong right hand, and each left hand chinking cheerfully the doubloons deep lodged in the auriferous caverns of their trunk-hose.” The knights, and squires, and BIDEFORD CHURCH, ETC. 149 dames of high degree resorted to its High Street, and paraded upon its quay, watching the slender masts ascending and descend¬ ing the pleasant Torridge. And among these was Sir Richard Grenville, of Burrough Court, one of the noblest of Elizabeth’s noble sea-chiefs—he who colonized Virginia, and, in “ the Re¬ venge” (August 1591), engaged a Spanish fleet of 53 sail for fifteen hours, though he had but 100 stout and able men on board, surrendering not until his vessel was a foundering hulk. Let us read his last words, the heroic speech of a true hero :— “ Here die I, Richard Grenville, with a joyful and quiet mind, for that I have ended my life as a true soldier ought to do, fight¬ ing for his Queen, religion, and honour; my soul willingly departing from this body, leaving behind the lasting fame of having behaved as every valiant soldier is in his duty hound to do.” Bideford streets, too, have beheld the stately presence of the sea-chiefs gallant descendant, the Sir Bevil Grenville, who fell upon Lansdowne field (1643), under the banner of King Charles. His townsmen, however, were rank Roundheads, and on the hill opposite the town erected Chudleigh Fort, captured by Colonel Digby, in the year of Sir Bevil’s death. Silk weaving was introduced into Bideford by the French emigrants of 1670 and 1685, and great quantities of Spanish wool were also imported. So many prizes were taken by the French off the mouth of the Torridge, that they named it “ the Bay of Gold,” and the town maintained a considerable repute until the close of George the Second’s reign. On August 25, 1682, three poor old Devonshire women were burnt to death at Bideford as witches,—the last execution for witchcraft that took place in England. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, and built early in the fourteenth century, has been rebuilt, and it contains a circular Norman font, and the tomb and statue of Sir Thomas Graunfyld, d. 1513. Its western tower is 70 feet high. The quay is 1200 feet in length. But the glory of Bideford is its Bridge, consist¬ ing of twenty-four arches, and being 677 feet in length. “ Every one who knows Bideford,” exclaims the eloquent author of “ Westward Ho,” “ cannot but know Bideford Bridge ; for it is the very omphalos, cynosure, and soul around which the town, as a body, has organized itself; but all do not know the occult powers which have advanced and animated the same won¬ drous bridge for now 500 years, and made it the chief wonder, 150 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. according to Prince and Fuller, of this fair land of Devon—being first an inspired bridge ; a soul-saving bridge ; an alms-giving bridge ; an educational bridge ; a sentient bridge ; and last, but not least, a dinner-giving bridge. All do not know how, when it began to be built some half mile higher up, hands invisible car¬ ried the stones down stream each night to the present site ; until Sir Richard Gurney, parson of the parish, going to bed one night in sore perplexity, and fear of the evil spirit who seemed so busy in his sheepfold, beheld a vision of an angel, who bade build the bridge where he himself had so kindly transported the materials, for there alone was sure foundation amid the broad sheet of sift¬ ing sand. All do not know how Bishop Grandison of Exeter proclaimed, throughout his diocese, indulgences, benedictions, and ‘ participation in all spiritual blessings for ever,’ to all who would promote the bridging of that dangerous ford ; and so, consulting alike the interests of their souls and of their bodies, ‘ make the best of both worlds.’ “ Ail do not know, nor do I, that ‘ though the foundation of the bridge is laid upon wool, yet it shakes at the slightest step of a horse,’ or that ‘ though it has twenty-three arches, yet one Wil¬ liam Alford (another Milo) carried on his back for a wager four bushels salt water measure, all the length thereof; ’ or that the bridge is a veritable esquire, bearing arms of its own (a ship and bridge proper on a plain field), and owning lands and tenements in many parishes, with which the said miraculous bridge has, from time to time, founded charities, built schools, waged suits at law, and, finally, given yearly dinners, and kept for that pur¬ pose (luxurious and liquorish bridge that it was) the best-stocked cellar of wines in all Devon”— [Kingsley) The trusts of the bridge, amounting to upwards of T400 per annum, are vested in eighteen feoffees, for whose use a hall was built in 1758. At spring-tides the water here rises 18 feet. Among “ the worthies ” of Bideford may be enumerated—■ John Shebbeare, the author of a once notorious novel, “ Chrysal, or the Adventures of a Guinea ; ” and Edward Capern, the poet- postman, who has received a pension from Government in acknow¬ ledgment of literary merit successfully struggling against adverse circumstances. James Hervey, the author of “ Meditations among the Tombs,” was at one time curate of Bideford. [Hints for Ramdi.es. —In this delightful neighbourhood the variety of excur¬ sions is infinite. The best thing a tourist can do is to get out of the town a* XNSTOW QUAY. 151 quickly as may be, and—lose himself. He will surely light upon some snug farm¬ house, sheltered, perhaps, in a tranquil and fertile combe, where warm-hearted Devonshire hospitality will profTer the draught of eider, the junket, or bowl of cream ; or he will come upon a quiet wayside inn, whose “ barley-wine” is whole¬ some, its bread home-made, and its “parlour” exquisitely clean. 1. It is but 11 miles to Hartland, passing “ the tisher-village” of Buck’s Mill, and then taking the new road made by Sir J. H. Williams, and called “ the Hobby.” 2. To Baum- staple, 9 miles, is a delightful ramble ; or, 3. To Torrington, by way of Annery, so famous in the pages of “ Westward Ho. ” and following, as near as may be, the course of the Torridge— “ By dappled park, and harbour shady, Haunt of love-lom kniglit and lady ”— returning through Hunsbaw. 4. NORTHAM (pop. 1511), with its Church, dedi¬ cated to St. Margaret, lies about 2J miles north of Bideford, and the little white fishing village of Appi.edore, about 1£ mile further, stands on the south bank of the bay, just where the Taw joins the Torridge. You may reach it by crossing Northam Burrows, a wide expanse of smooth turf, some 1000 acres in all, fenced on from the Atlantic by the Pebble Ridge, a natural wall of grey boulders, slate and sandstone, 2 miles in length and 20 feet in height. Here we come upon the rising watering-place of Westward Ho 1 with its extensive golfing links while on the headland beyond will be seen a lighthouse, and at Braunton Burrows, across the bay, other two lighthouses, for the coast is full of peril. 5. Two miles down the Torridge is the Hubbastone, indicating the grave of the Danish Hubba, who, with the crews of his twenty-three ships, was defeated and slain at Appledore by the men of Devon, a.d. 878. Aye, the Dane chief was killed in that fierce fight, and with him 840 of his men; and “ there was taken that war-flag which they called the Raven." Within that spell-bound rock, so say the Torrridge boatmen, “ sleeps now the old Norse Viking in his leaden coffin, with all his fairy treasure and his crown of gold.” The old stones of “the Bloody Corner,” where the Danes, cnt off from their ships, turned at bay, and made their last stand against their pursuers, still remain. The fight began at Kenwith Castle, 1 mile north-west, and ended here, by these weather-worn memorials. 6. Wear Gifford (Earl Fortescue), with its noble oak-groves, is 4 miles up the Torridge. Be sure you visit that fine old manor-house, about which the presence of the Elizabethan heroes still seems to linger; its tapestried chambers are curious, and its hall can boast of a richly carved roof of oak.] Bideford is connected with Barnstaple and Torrington by means of the North Devon Railway. The line runs northward, along the east bank of the Torridge, and past the groves of Tapeley,to the small watering-place of INSTOW QUAY (popula¬ tion, 626), which stands upon a point of land at the junction of the Taw with the Torridge. Its Church, dedicated to St. John is a good specimen of Perpendicular. The views from Instow are good and extensive. At Appledore, on the other side of the river, a chapel-of-ease, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in 1840. Resuming our coasting expedition, we soon pass Braunton 152 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. Burrows and its lighthouses,—a vast tract of sand overlying e primeval forest ; the headland of Saunton Down End, above which stands the old house of Saunton Court; we sweep into the rockhound curve of Woollocombe Bay, and round the yellow sand¬ stone cliffs of Baggy Point,—haunted by a thousand wings ; then we glide across the waters of Morte Bay, on whose north-eastern shore, seated on a hill and overlooking the billowy Atlantic, stands the village of MORTHOE (population, 347)—the height or hold of Mort. The black, jagged cliffs here rise to the height of 800 feet, and display every variety of configuration. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, and covers the dust, it is supposed, of William de Tracy, one of the four knightly murderers of Thomas-a-Becket. Another William Tracy, d. 1322, a former rector of the parish, is buried here ; the tomb-slab is carved with figures of a priest in priestly robes, and holding a chalice in his hand, and St. Catherine and St. Mary Magdalene. Close to the sea-shore stands an old farm-house called Woollacombe Tracy, which is said to mark the spot where Becket’s murderer lived in dreary exile “when wind and weather turned against him.” Across the hay stretch the Woollacombe Sands,—“remarkable as being the only sands along the north coast, and as presenting a pure and driven expanse for some miles. Here, so runs the legend, he was banished ‘to make bundles of the sand, and binds (wisps) of the same.’ ”— (A. P. Stanley). We pass Barricane Creek, rich in shells, and round Morte Point, into the lonesome hollow of Rockham Bay. A ridge of low, sunken, jagged rocks, extending from the point far out into the sea, terminates in the ill-famed Morte Stone —or Death Stone—fatal to many a gallant vessel. The northern extremity of Rockham Bay is the formidable headland of Bull Point, rounding which we come in sight of the tors of ILFRACOMBE* (pop. 4721. Hotel: The Ilfracombe).— Several craggy heights or tors, 400 feet high, bound its harbour westward, the most notable of which is the Capstone, a conical elevation of shale, along the side of which the Parade has been constructed. From the Capstone a pier, 850 feet in length, stretches partly across an inlet of the sea, and so encloses a basin sheltered from tempestuous winds, and of sufficient depth of water to admit vessels of considerable burthen. To the east¬ ward this inlet is protected by the lofty camp-crested elevation of Helesborough, 500 feet, and half across the mouth projects a ridge of precipitous rock, thrown out from the base of Lantern * A steamer plies regularly between Ilfracombe and Swansea. ILFRACOMBE. 153 Hill, —a steep, 100 feet in height, which rises above the har¬ bour in picturesque grandeur, crowned by an ancient chapel of St. Nicholas (the patron saint of mariners), now made use of as a lighthouse. The beaches of Ilfracombe consist of shingle, and are not very comfortable for bathers. The principal bathing places are situate behind the Baths. They are approached by a series of tunnels,—at the ladies’ beach there is a rock-bound pool well adapted for bathing. The town consists in the main of one long street running down a tolerable declivity, from the church to the harbour, for about a mile. The best houses, however, are to be found in the terraces (Coronation and Helesborough) recently erected along the slopes of the Rcnnacleaves at the east end, and at the Torrs on the west. The Chorch, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was built in the twelfth century, but greatly enlarged in the fifteenth. It consists of a nave, chancel, north and south aisles, 115 feet long by 61 broad. The font is Norman ; the pulpit dates from the reign of James I. The principal memorial is the sarcophagus of Captain Richard Bovien, R.N., slain in Nelson’s unsuccessful attack upon Teneriffe, July 24, 1797. “ A more enterprising, able, and gallant officer,” said Nelson, “ does not grace His Majesty’s naval service ; ” and with this eulogy the spirit of Bowen may well be content, though the Government refused him a monument in St. Paul’s. A new Church, dedicated to Saints Philip and James, was built from the designs of Mr. Hayward in 1855. The Pier was first constructed in 1731 at the expense of the Bourehiers, Lords Fitzwarine ; repaired in 1761 ; and enlarged in 1829 by Sir Bourchier Wrev, who has recently erected a new pier and landing-stage. The Baths were built in 1783, and are placed at the mouth of a tunnel, which leads under the Runnacleaves to the Crookhorn Cavern (from a crooked crag now washed away), dry at low water, but filled by the tide except for three months in the year. The tradition runs that here, during one of these periods of three months, and immediately after Thomas- a-Becket’s murder, Sir William Tracy hid himself for a fortnight, and was fed by his daughter. The manor of Ilfracombe, included in the barony of Barn¬ staple, descended from the Tracys to the Martins and Audleys, reverted to the crown, passed to the Bourehiers, and from them to their descendant, Sir Bourchier Wrey. A market was granted 154 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. to it in 1278 by Edward I. It contributed 6 ships and 82 mariners to the expedition destined against Calais in 1346. In September 1644 it was seized for King Charles by Sir Philip Doddington, but soon afterwards regained by the Parlia¬ mentarians. Colonel Wade and others, fugitives from the lost field of Sedgmoor (1685), seized a barque here, and attempted to put out to sea, but a man-of-war hove in sight, and compelled them to return. In the romantic cove of Wildersmouth the new Ilfracombe Hotel has been built; while below the Seven Tors Road is White-pebble Bay, so named from its beach of white quartz pebbles. A rock here is known as Lover’s Leap. The chief walk in the vicinity of Ilfracombe is called the Tors Walk, which skirts the sea. It was formed by a Company, and a charge of one penny is made at the entrance, which is at the west end of the town. It affords some fine views of the Bristol Channel. A pleasant inland walk from Ilfracombe may be taken up the old Barnstaple Road, following a footpath through Winsome Farm, and returning by the Cemetery. Rounding Heles- borodgh —the elm-girdled village of HELE lies in a brook- watered valley one mile inland—we sail into Sampson’s Bay, with its rocky wall hollowed into two caverns ; and beyond stretches out the headland of Rillage Point, the western boundary of Smallmooth. Here a deep, narrow glen terminates at a small creek ; and the circular hollow of Briar Cave, and the strange arched tunnel in the rock, through which one may catch a glimpse of Combemartin, invite the voyager’s attention. A sweet romantic cove is that of Watermouth, into whose cliff- bound recess we now pass gently. Rocks of grey slate encircle it. and reefs of grauwacke fling their long arms out into the channel. Down through a valley, which at this point opens upon the shore, tumbles a crystal stream, after brightening the pleasant groves and blossomy lawns of Watermouth Castle (A. D. Basset, Esq.), a picturesque castellated mansion, which is scarcely yet complete. About 1 mile inland lies BERRYNARBOR (population, 775) —a corrupt combination of the names of its former lords, the De Perrys and Herberts—with a fine old mansion of stone of the days of Edward IV., and a quaint ancient church, which exhibits a Nor¬ man arch, an Early English chancel, a Decorated tower, a Perpen- COMBEMARTIN-TRENTISHOE. 155 dicular nave, and otherwise looks very picturesque and stately. Here, at Bowden farm-house, was born good Bishop Jewel in 1522. Rounding the Newburry Rocks (of limestone and clay-slate), the termination of a ridge which, as it strikes inland, grows beautifully verdurous, we sweep into Combemartin Bat. At the other extremity tower the formidable heights of the Little Hangman (1083 feet high), deriving its name from the hanging stone which marked the parish boundary on its flank ; and the Great Hangman (1200 feet high). From hence the hills sweep away to the south-east in a magnificent series of undulating heights, the Paracombe forcing its way through a narrow gap in their formidable barrier. COMBEMARTIN (population 1441) reposes in a deep shadowy valley, looking out upon a tranquil bay. It takes its name from Martin of Tours, who received the manor from William I. A mine of silver was worked here during the reigns of the Plantagenets, and a cup made of the native metal was presented by one Sir Richard Bulmer to great Gloriana. Attempts were made to revive the work both in 1813 and 1835. A new smelting-house was erected in 1845, but three years later the mine was closed. The village street is a mile in length. At its south extremity stands the Chdrch, a Perpendicular building of red stone, dedi¬ cated to St. Peter, and containing a marble monument and effigy to Dame Hancock, died 1637, and a richly wrought rood screen. At TRENTISHOE (population 129), the little river Para¬ combe flows into the Bristol Channel. Trentishoe Barrow is a hill of extraordinary elevation. The Church, on high ground, is dedicated to St. Peter. A romantic path leads through the shadow of a thick fir wood to Heddon’s Mouth, a picturesque glen watered by the Paracombe. Rounding Highveer Point, we catch sight of MARTINHOE (population 220), or Martin’s Hill, perched upon the uplands, which rise abrupt and sheer from the rocky coast. About 4 miles farther we reach the favourite sea-side resort of Lynmouth, at the base of the lofty hill on which the villas and cottages of LYNTON cluster. (Ilfracombe to Lynton 20 miles—the road attaining an elevation of 900 feet at Paracombe common.) At 156 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. Lynmouth,* the principal Hotel is “ The Lyndale ; ” at Lynton, the “Royal Castle” (with pleasure-grounds), and the “ Valley of Rocks Hotel” are both beautifully situated. Lynton stands upon an almost perpendicular hill, 428 feet above the sea. A road winds down this steep declivity to the beach, where, at the junction of the East and West Lyns with the sea, lies the most romantic little village in the west of England. These two streams tumble down two deep valleys, or gorges, which start, as it were, from one common point, but diverge eastward and westward as they approach the coast. The valley of West Lyn is clothed with umbrageous pines, while, on either hand, the rocks rise in fantastic forms to an extraordinary alti¬ tude ; and the river leaps, and eddies, and whirls, and seethes, and frets along its rocky bed. The road to Lynmouth is carried down this valley. The valley of East Lyn is still more romantic in its character, and the stream falls in a succession of shimmer¬ ing cascades among ferny depths, and in the shadow of magni¬ ficent trees. Southey speaks of Lynmouth as “ the finest spot, except Cintra and the Arrabida,” which he had ever seen. “ Two rivers,” he writes, “join at Lynmouth. . . Each of these flows down a combe, rolling over huge stones like a long waterfall ; immediately at their junction they enter the sea ; and the river and the sea make but one sound of uproar. Of these combes, the one is richly wooded, the other runs between two high, bare, stony hills. From the hill between the two is a prospect most magnificent ; on either hand, combes ; and the river before the little village . . . This alone would constitute a view beau¬ tiful enough to repay the weariness of a long journey ; but to complete it, there is the blue and boundless sea.” The West Lyn, in the course of a quarter of a mile, descends no less than 400 feet. On the west side, the hills reach an elevation of 700 feet above the sea, but farther inland they attain 900 feet, and at Chapman Burrows 1500 feet. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is ancient, but has been twice enlarged. Sir W. Herries has a beautiful park and pleasant house in the West Lyn valley. The angler will find some excellent sport here ; and the botanist may ■* Lynmouth was for awhile, in 1812, the residence of Shelley, and, about the same time, it was visited by William Godwin. The scenery of the district is well depicted by Mr. Blackmore in his Lorna Boone, a Romance of Exmoor. LYNMOUTH LYSTON. 157 look for tlie ivy-leaved campanula, and many of the rarest members of the beautiful fern family. The tourist must not fail to follow the course of the river inland (for about mile) to see the celebrated Waters’ Meet. One of the finest roads imaginable winds about half-way along the side of the romantic chasm of Lyndale (or East Lyn) ; while the river, 200 ft. below, flows with lucent wave through a picturesque and rocky channel, until the valley opens upon two other pine-clad glens, whose streams uniting form the river we have just been exploring. A pretty cottage (Rev. W. Halliday), built at the confluence of the streams, lends a peculiar grace to this lovely landscape. The finest view of Lynmouth is, however, obtainable from the sea. The rugged mountain which rises above it—the two wooded valleys, obscure and shadowy, which open upon the shore—the cottages peeping out of their environment of foliage—the river sparkling under its rustic bridge, and among its clustering ferns— combine to produce a picture, which, for “colour” and “ ideality,” cannot be matched on the whole north coast of Devon. The Valley of Rocks, 1 mile from Lynton,must next be visited, and the wayfarer, on entering it, will assuredly fancy that he has unwittingly plunged into the ruins of some antediluvian world. It is reached from Lynton by a road, 300 feet in length, which winds along the side of a fearful declivity, whose ridge is partially clothed with verdure, and suddenly opens into a wonderful gorge or ravine, bounded seaward by a fantastic rampart of contorted rocks. “ Imagine,” says Southey, “ a narrow vale between two ridges of hills, somewhat steep, the southern hill turfed ; the vale, which runs from east to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of stone among the fern that fills it ; the northern ridge completely bare, excoriated of all turf and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the earth ; rock reclining upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific mass. A palace of the Pre- Adamite kings, a city of the Anakim must have appeared so shapeless, and yet so like the ruins of what had been shaped after the waters of the flood subsided. I ascended with some toil the highest point ; two large stones inclining on each other formed a rude portal on the summit. Here I sat down. A little level platform, about two yards long, lay before me, and then the eye immediately fell upon the sea, far, very far below. 1 never felt the sublimity of solitude before.” 158 NORTH-WEST COAST OF DEVONSHIRE. To this graphic description we may add some general remarks. The valley would appear to have been the course of a vast and violent torrent, which rent asunder the mountains on its way into the Severn. Its length is about | mile, its average width 100 yards, hut it broadens as it approaches the sea. On each side the acclivities form an angle of about 47°, and exhibit huge masses of rocks, either fixed or detached, which have assumed the most fantastic forms imaginable. At the west extremity, which terminates in a small cove, stands the Castle Rock, an isolated pile of extraordinary magnitude and conoidal shape, as shown in the foregoing illustration. From its summit the view is very extensive. “ Generally speaking, these rocks consist of a fine-grained argillaceous grit, of a lamellar fracture, and, in some instances, triable and loose textured ; the colour is internally a bluish gray, and minute particles of mica may be distinguished throughout the mass.”—( Maton .) In the centre of the valley are the remains of some stone circles, about 40 feet in diameter, which are supposed to be Druidical. The legend attaching to this remarkable locality is worth narration:—Of Lynton Castle not a stone remains, but “ once upon a time” it was as stately a stronghold as ever echoed to the clash of knightly arms. To its gates, one evening, came a stal¬ wart monk, and he prayed for help in the name of the Blessed Virgin, but the lady of the castle liked not his gloomy brow, and bade him begone. Whereupon he raised his clenched hand, and drew up his well-knit frame, and vowed—“ All that is thine shall be mine, until in the porch of the holy church a lady and a child shall stand and beckon !” Years glided away into the shadowy sea of the past, and lo, the church of St. John was pulled down by the baron who had succeeded to the estates of Lynton, and whose greed was such that he dared to lay his hand even upon holy treasures. Then, as he sate among his gold, the Black Monk suddenly entered, and sum¬ moned him to his fearful audit; and his servants, roused by his cries, found only a lifeless corse. His son, smitten to the heart by the doom which hung over his house, girded on his sword, took up the cross, and in Palestine did doughty deeds against the Saracen ; but by his side was ever seen the Black Monk, as his friend and guide, and, alas, the wine-cup and the smiles of lewd women soon lured him from the path of right. Ah me! heavy were the souls of mother and sister when the ill tidings reached them LTXTON. 159 in tlie lone tower of Lynton, and happy were they when, at length, Death the consoler brought to them a sweet repose. So the knight returned to the Devonshire valley, and lo, on the happy Sabbath morning, the chimes of the church-bells flung out their silver music on the air, and the memories of an inno¬ cent childhood woke up instantly in his sorrowing heart. In vain the Black Monk sought to beguile him from the holy fane, and whispered to him of bright eyes and a distant bower. He paused, for only a moment! In the shadow of the porch stood the luminous forms of his mother and sister, a glory -wrapping them around, and a divine music issuing from the heavens above. They lifted up their spirit hands ; they beckoned! The knight tore himself from the Black Monk’s grasp, and rushed towards them, exclaiming, “ I come! I come! Mother, sister, I am saved! 0 Heaven, have pity on me!” And lo, the three were borne up-wards in a radiant cloud, while angels were glad over a sinner that had repented. But the Black Monk leapt headlong into the depths of the abyss beneath, and the castle fell to pieces with a sudden crash, and where its towers had soared statelily into the sunlit air was now outspread the very desolation of Nature—the Valley of the Rocks! [Hints for Rambles. —In the vicinity of Lynton the walks are numerous and beautiful, and the whole country side is replete with charm and interest. 1. What finer ramble can pedestrian desire than through the Valley of the Rocks, and by Combe Martin and Watermouth to Ilfracombe —17 miles, returning, by coach, along the turnpike road, a 20 miles’ drive—(Fares, 6s. and 4s.) 2. To Barnstaple is a long day's excursion, and, of course, the tourist must pass the night there, but the road lies through a very delectable landscape. 3. Shorter strolls will take him to the pretty little nook on the bank of the Parracombe, where the “Hunter's Inn" affords a modest refection ; or, 4, to Brendon, 4 miles south-east, a romantic hamlet in a deep ravine; or, 5, across Countisbory Hill (1100 feet high, and crowned with an ancient camp), and by way of Old Barrow, another British hill-fort, into the luxuriant groves of Glenthorne (Rev. W. Halliday), 7 miles, returning along the coast. 6. The adventurous tourist may even penetrate into Exmoor Forest, now a broad expanse of heath and gorse, enlivened by some abundant trout streams, as far as Mole’s Chamber —a dangerous morass named after a rash Devonshire farmer who, opite of warnings, rode right into its depths, and was swallowed up immedi¬ ately. Lee Abbey (Charles Bailey, Esq.) is only 1J mile west of Lynton. The house is modem, occupying the site of a mansion built by Von Wichhalse, a wealthy Fleming, driven from Holland by the tyrannies of the terrible Alva. The fair daughter of Sir Edward Von Wichhalse was betrayed by one of James II. ’s courtiers, and gradually sinking into decay, was found, at last, among the rocks of Duty Point—a corpse. The infuriated father, unable to obtain any justice from the King, eagerly enlisted under the banner of Monmouth ; and after the defeat of Sedgmuir, rode in hot haste to Lee Abbev embarked all his family on board a small skiff, and 160 FROM AXMINSTER TO EXETER. it night attempted his escape. But the winds rose, the boat was overciowded, It foundered in the storm, and all were lost. S3T During the season, steamers from Bristol, Swansea, and Tenby, call regularly at Lynmouth and Ilfracombe—fares, 3s. and 2s. Saddle-horses are also procurable at Ilfracombe for a day's ride (by turnpike road) to Lynton and back—fare, 7s. Coaches run daily, during the summer months, between Evnton and Minehead and Bridgewater, and between Ilfracombe and Lynton.] AXMINSTER to EXETER—by RAIL. £3T London and South-Western Railway, —Express from London at 9 am., ren. hes Exeter, 2.5 p.m. [Axmiusterto Colyton, 4 m. ; Honiton, 6 m.; Ottery Road, 3} m.; Whimple, 5 m.; Broad Clyst, 3 m.; Exeter, 4 m. (Queen Street Station); 188 m. from London .=• 25J m.] AXMINSTER. [Population, 2918. Inns: The George, and the Old Bell. 147 m. from London ; 7 m. from Axmouth ; 23 m., by road, from Exeter; 14 m. from Crewkeme ; 12 m. from Bridport; 27 m. from Dorchester; 5 m. from Lyme Regis ; 9 m. from Honiton ; 7J m. from Chard ; 19J m. from Collumpton. Bankers: Messrs. Williams ., “ The Druids’ Town on the Teign” — was the principal Druidic settlement ; 200 CREDITON TO OKEHAMPTON. but it really derives its name from the Norman who possessed the manor in the reign of Henry II., Drogo de Teignton, The gardens, the prolific orchards, the grassy slopes, steep hill¬ sides, and sunny meadows ; the thick leafy coppices and sha¬ dowy glades ; the noble farms and antique manorial houses which encircle Drewsteignton, render it an excellent centre for a series of summer-day excursions. Fingle Bridge (fyn, a boundaiy, and g ; ll, a waterfall) is a point that no tourist should fail to visit. May the writer be forgiven for saying that it is associated with many of his child¬ hood’s pleasantest memories! The road sweeps down an embowered descent to the river, which is crossed by a narrow, time-worn bridge, covered with ivy and lichens, and supported by numerous arches. Its eddying and whirling stream is pent up between lofty and precipitous banks, which throw a peculiar shadow upon its waters, and enforce, as it were, a strange and impressive silence. Above it rises the ancient British camp of Preston Berry Castle — berry, from byrig, a fort—locally pronounced Pressonberry, a considerable entrenchment, occupying full seven acres, and protected on the north-east by a double vallum and an outwork. On the other bank towers a sister stronghold, known as Cranbrook Castle, strengthened on the south side by a double fosse, and a massive vallum, and ascended to through a perfect forest of hazel and bramble, enlivened by ferns and wild flowers, and affording occasional glimpses of the reaches of the silver Teign. Having refreshed himself at the mill, a short distance below the bridge, where a couple of rooms are placed at the disposal of visitors, the wayfarer will proceed up the Teign, passing be¬ neath some formidable crags, and winding with the sinuous course of the river, to the Logan, or Bolling Stone*— a mass of rock precipitated by some convulsion from the hill above. It measures 12 feet long by 6 feet in breadth and height, and within the recollection of many, sensibly shook at a light touch of the hand ; it now appears to be embedded in the soiL Many a legend flourished about it in the days of our childhood ; but even Devonshire peasants have tasted of the fruit of “the tree of knowledge,” and now regard the Logan Stone with a sub¬ lime indifference. Indifference, however, to the natural beauties of tliis romantic * The Welsh maen sigl, or shaking stone. THROWLEIGH-SOUTH ZEAL. 01 spot no tourist will pretend. Here is a deep valley, or defile, formed by the fantastic rocky steep of Hunstor, and the pictur¬ esque oak-shadowed slopes of Whyddon Park (E. S. Bayley, Esq.) The river now winds through the gloom, seething round many a jutting crag, and dimpling into silent pools beneath a cluster of musical reeds, passes under Dogamarsh Bridge, where it is crossed by the road from Moreton-Hampstead to Oakhampton ; and finally wanders far away into the haunted recesses of Dartmoor. At Dogamarsh Bridge we leave its banks, and, turning towards Oak¬ hampton, make our way to the Spinster’s Rock (in the grounds of Shilston farm). It is said to have been raised on its present elevation by a father and his three sons (Noah, Ham, Shem, and Japheth ?) who brought the stones from the loftiest wilds of Dart¬ moor. Another legend ascribes its erection to three spinring women, or spinsters, who accomplished the feat one morning be¬ fore breakfast. In the latter tradition Mr. Rowe would detect an allusion to the three Fatal Sisters, the terrible Valkyriur of the Norse mythology, whose office it was, with “ abhorred shears, to slit the thin-spun life ”—to “ weave the warp, and weave the woof, the winding-sheet ” of many a hero’s race. Leaving THROWLEIGH (population, 395), its Church, and Shelstone Pound, on the left—the latter an enclosure in the centre of an ancient British village, formed by stones about 3 feet high and 7 feet thick—we regain the Oakhampton road, near the sixteenth mile-stone from Exeter. Two miles further westward and we reach SOUTH ZEAL (population, 578), a small and quiet village on the confines of the haunted wilds of Dartmoor. One mile beyond is Sticklepath (from the Saxon sticele, a rapid). Here we propose to indulge in another of our digressions, and take the tourist with us on a visit to Cawsand Beacon, 1792 feet above the ocean-level. [Passing through the village, we turn aside hy a rudely-earved cross of granite into a path that leads along the bank of the Taw to Taw Marsh, where the vale is absolutely speckled with huge gray fragments of rock. We now climb the steep sides of Cawsand, or Cosdon, and gaining its summit, survey with unstinted admiration the panorama that glows and glimmers beneath. To the south, at the foot of an airy tor, lies a vast morass, in whose centre sleep the haunted waters of Cranmere Tool, and well up the infant streams of the Dart, and the Tavy, the Ockment, the Teign, and the Taw. Among the meadows on the east lie the villages of Throw- leigh and Gidleigh, and in the valley beyond meanders the romantic Teign. On three sides—north, west, and south—stretches the bleak, lone waste of Dartmoor, 202 CREDITOR TO OKEHAMPTON. with contorted rocks, and gray hills, and dark deep bogs, varying, but not relieving, the barren wilds. Yonder, against the Setting sun, towers the lofty elevation oi Yes Tor, the highest of the Dartmoor hills ; to the south, Hey Tor; and to the north-west, Belstone Tor. Far away to the southward sparkles, like a sea of fire, the seemingly motionless mass of waters of the English channel; northward, if the day be cloudless, may be seen the billows which fret against the rocky coast of Northern Devon. In a word, the view is one which once beheld may never be for¬ gotten. On the summit of the beacon the tourist will remark the huge caim wherein the warning-fires were formerly lighted, but which was originally erected by the Britons to protect their kistvaens, or stone sarcophagi, the receptacles of the remains of their dead. Of these kistvaens —of a small circular pound, or enclosure, which may have been a Celtic entrenchment; and, along the broad slope of the hill, of several hut-circles, or British villages—the rude moorstone hovels of the aboriginal Celts— numerous remains may be detected. Descending Cawsand, we cross the valley, and with some difficulty make our way up Belstone Tor. On the hillside stands a sacred circle of seventeen stones —the highest about 2J feet above the ground—which is called, singularly enough, the Nine Stones. Of course, they nourish a fantastic legend—a party of Sabbath¬ breaking revellers, who were smitten into stone as a punishment for their sins, are allowed'to dance daily at noon— “ No sun upon an Easter-day Was e’er so fine a sight I ” Science, however, steps in and demolishes the legend with a few simple words of explanation. The moor, heated by the noonday sun, gives off successive currents of air, which rise about the peaks, and communicate to objects near the ground a sort of tremulous appearance. Again we descend into the lowlands, and make for Chapel Ford, perpetuating by its name the memory of a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, of which not a stone remains. The vale through which the East Ockment flows, over a hard granite bed,— “ Leading many a nymph, who dwells Where wild deer drink in ferny dells, While the Oreads as they past Peep from Druid Tors aghast; By dappled park, and harbour shady, Haunt of love-lorn knight and lady—” Is picturesque enough to inspire a poet with immortal fancies, and enchant an artist with glorious dreams.] Belstone Church, with its low Norman tower, was built (it is said) by Baldwin de Brionne, Earl of Devon. It is about 2 miles from Oakhampton. Okehampton Park is now a wild upland, clothed with the rudest and roughest vegetation imaginable, and sloping fantasti¬ cally towards the bank of the troutful West Ockment, which ripples along a romantic and shady glen. The leaf-shrouded ruins of the old castle occupy a projecting rock, which overlooks the river, and is protected on the west side by an artificial trench, on the north by a deep natural ravine. A small square keep— OKEHAMPTON. 203 coloured by various tinted lichens—and an adjoining wall which exhibits a ruined oratory ; the relics of the baronial hall, with its huge chimney—of portions of the chapel, a piscina, and some of the minor apartments—all apparently dating from the fourteenth century—remain to excite the tourist’s curiosity. Baldwin de Brionne is said to have founded a castle in this commanding position, which descended to the De Redvers, and thence to the Courtenays, but in the present structure there are no traces of Norman work. It was probably built by one of the Courtenays. In the reign of Henry VIII., when Henry Courtenay was attainted of treason, the castle was dismantled and the chase disparted. The manor, which at one time belonged to Lord Clive, and after¬ wards to George IV., when Prince Regent, is now the property of Sir R. Vyvyan, Bart., and a small cross course of lead, intermixed with silver, on the river bank near the castle ruins, is now re¬ gularly worked. OKEHAMPTON (pop. 1900. Inns: White Hart, London), sometimes written Oakhampton (anciently Ochenitone), and usually called Ockington, has been described by Kingsley as an “ ugly, dirty, and stupid town, with which fallen man (by some strange perversity) has chosen to defile one of the loveliest sites in the pleasant land of Devon.” The town, sooth to say, possesses but little to interest the tourist ; yet it hardly deserves so severe a condemnation, and may be commended as a most convenient 6tarting-point from whence to explore the goodly scenery of Lyd- ford—the valleys of the two Ockments— “ The antres vast, and deserts idle, Rough quarries, rocks, and hills whose heads touch heaven,” of desolate Dartmoor. The town is built in a valley, near the confluence of the two Ocks or Ockments—a rapid stream which rises near Cranmere Pool, in the depths of the Dartmoor morasses. The Reform Act of 1832 deprived it of its parliamentary privileges. A market is held every Saturday, chiefly for the sale of oats, which are largely grown in this vicinity ; and on the Saturday before Christ¬ mas the town is enlivened by a great cattle-market. “ On the Saturday after Christmas is a great holiday-fair, called ‘ a Giglet ’ or ‘ Giglet Market,’ that is, a wife-market; at which the most rustic swain, if weary of his bachelorship, is privileged with self-intro- 204 FROM EXETER TO BIDEFORD. duction to any disengaged fair one who may attract his particular fancy.” But the bachelor-tourist is warned that, at winter time, Okehampton (and its neighbourhood) is about as dreary a locale as can well be imagined. The Parish Church, an Early English building, with a square pinnacled tower, rebuilt in 1842 by Hayward of Exeter, after a great fire which destroyed the ancient edifice, stands on a considerable hill, half a mile west of the town. In the town itself there is a small chantry chapel, now used as a chapel-of-ease, and dedicated to St. James, which boasts of a good Perpendicular tower. To the north is situated the well-wooded park of Oaklands (A. Savile, Esq.), encircling a handsome mansion, whose classical facade (of the Ionic order) is really very good and graceful. It was built about forty years ago from the designs of Mr. Vokins, a London architect. In future routes we shall describe at length the scenery which encompasses this dull little market town, and renders it of some importance to the traveller. It will suffice in this place to re¬ mind him that enjoyable rambles may be made to Yes Tor (West Tor ?), which rises to a height of 2050 feet above the sea-level ; to Lydford, or Lidford, and its Cascade, 9 miles ; to Cawsand Beacon, 6 miles ; to Fitz’s Well, a spring in Oakhampton Park, endowed with wonderful healing powers ; to the limestone exca¬ vations of Elmdon Quarry ; up the valley of the Ockment ; and even to the marvellous recesses of Cranmere Pool. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—CREDITON TO CHULMLEIGH The railway now runs through a fertile country, well studded with farms and villages, and affording numerous glimpses of the real Devonshire cottage, that is to say, an oblong building, with a thatched roof, and walls of clay, loam, and straw (locally caUed Cob), standing in its own little nook of garden-ground, and gar¬ landed about its diamond-paned lattices with roses, eglantine, and jessamine. COLEBROOK (pop. 871), on a branch of the Creedy, is soon left behind, and CLANABOROUGH (population, 62), 2 miles beyond. We then run into the Coplestone Sta¬ tion, from whence COPLESTONE * may be visited for the sake * Coplestone gave name to an ancient Devonshire family : Crocker, Cruwys, and Coplestone, When the conqueror came were all at home. MORHARD BISHOP. Z05 of its ancient Cross, about 12 feet high, and decorated with rude ornamental scrolls—and BOW, 3 miles west, in the heart of a very agreeable landscape. The next station is the Morchard Hoad, 1 f mile. MOR¬ HARD BISHOP (population, 1854) lies 2 miles right. Three miles further, and we come to LAPFORD (population, 766), where we cross a tributary of the Taw, and wind through a valley of exquisite fertility. Denridge and Pidley, the seats of the Radford and St. Leger families, have met with the common fate of the Elizabethan manorial halls, and been converted into sub¬ stantial farm-houses. Each commands a good river view, and, like most of the mansions of the time, occupies low ground. COLERIDGE (population, 607), which gives name to a famous Devonshire family, is situated 4 miles left. The Church is one of unusual interest: a fine Perpendicular screen, and the figure of an armed knight, one John Evans, d. 1514, should be carefully examined. At 4j miles we reach the little Eggesford Station, con¬ structed we presume for the convenience of the Earl of Ports¬ mouth, whose seat (Howard House) is situated on the left, near WEMWORTHY (population, 444). Eggesford manor belongs to the Earl of Portsmouth. The Church is old, but presents little to call for notice. Either from EGGESFORD, or the SOUTH MOLTON STATION (2£ miles)—the latter is the more convenient—we may gain the pretty little market town of CHULMLEIGH (population, 1711. Inn: King’s Arms), situated on the old Roman via, near the confluence of the Taw and Little Dart. Colonel Okey here defeated, in 1645, a body of Roundhead soldiers. The neighbourhood well deserves a day’s exploration. The tourist will find himself in a fair pastoral country, and ever and anon alight upon some quiet farmstead, buried among ancient trees, and enlivened by a blossomy orchard. Remark the Jacobean house of Colleton Barton (R. Williams, Esq.), and the quaint Elizabethan mansion, Leigh House ( Miss Preston.). The course of the Little Dart should be followed as far as EAST WORKINGTON (population, 277), passing the ruins of Aston 206 UMBERLEIGH TO BIDEFORD. or Afton Castle, formerly the stately stronghold of the Devon¬ shire Stukeleys, and lately restored by Sir George Stueley. There are some noticeable memorials in the Churches, both of EAST and WEST WORLINGTON. From East Worlington the pedestrian may follow the Credi- ton rOad to SOUTH MOLTON (pop. 4482. Inns: George, and Unicorn), an ancient market-town, occupying an elevated position above the river Mole, and chiefly supported by its manufactures- of serge and leather. Its Perpendicular Church should be visited. The font is old, and the stone pulpit loaded with orna¬ mental carvings. The whole edifice has been lately repaired. Castle Hill (Earl Fortescue) lies 3 miles north on the road to Barnstaple. The mansion is an imposing one, and the park is rich in groves and avenues of the noblest trees imaginable. The Bray, a tributary of the Mole, foams and ripples in the shade of the “ far-drooping boughs.” Some Portugal laurels in the shrubbery have attained the unusual girth of nine and ten feet. We continue our course through the valley of the Taw, fol¬ lowing very closely the line of the old turnpike road to UMBER¬ LEIGH, a small village, where we cross the river. South Molton lies 6 tt miles east. Tawstock House (Sir B. Wrey, Bt.) was rebuilt in 1787, on the site of a mansion occupied by Fair¬ fax in 1646. BRANCH ROUTE—UMBERLEIGH to BIDEFORD, 11 Miles. One mile west is ATHERINGTON (population, 599), with a fine Early English Church, containing some effigies of the fif¬ teenth century, a remarkable screen, and some good stained glass. Seven miles beyond, lies TORRINGTON (population, 3529. Inn: The Globe), built on a green hill side, whose base is washed by the Torridge. About 3 miles north, the Torridge canal crosses the river on an aqueduct of five substantial arches. The canal was constructed at the cost of the late Lord Rolle, and opened in 1824. Some scanty ruins of Torridge Castle, founded by Richard de Merton, temp Edward IH., may interest the archaeologist. The TORRINGTON CHURCH. 207 town is famous as the scene of two severe engagements between Roundheads and Cavaliers, one in 1643, when Col. Digby re¬ pulsed a body of Parliamentarians with immense slaughter, owing (as Clarendon tells us) to a panic which suddenly seized “ the rebels.” In 1646, Fairfax totally defeated Lord Hopton in a night attack, finishing at one blow the campaign in the west. After the battle, Torrington Church, in which upwards of 200 royalist prisoners had been placed under a strong guard, was destroyed by the accidental explosion of 80 barrels of gunpowder. Not a life was saved. Torrington Church dates only from 1651 ; its tower was added some thirty-five years ago. The altar-piece was lately pre¬ sented by Lady Rolle. The town has had the honour of conferring a title upon three historic celebrities,—an earldom in 1660 upon Monk , Duke of Albemarle , who was born at Potheridge, 5 miles south, where, in the days of his exaltation, he built a magnificent mansion, of which only the stables remain ; an earldom in 1669 upon Admiral Herbert , whose services to William III. entitled him to the reward ; and a viscountcy in 1720 upon Admiral Sir George Byng, by whose descendants it is still held. John Howe , the eminent non¬ conformist divine, born in 1630, resided for many years in Tor¬ rington. His house on one occasion caught fire, but the flames were happily extinguished by a sudden shower. On the very same evening the divine received a letter whose concluding sen¬ tence ran as follows :—“ May the dew of heaven descend upon your dwelling! ” Captain Palmer’s house, near the church, is associated with the memory of Dr. Johnson, who visited here (1762) Mrs. Mary Palmer, the eldest sister of Sir Joshua Reynolds. At Annery, 3 miles north-west, there is a monument to Sir William Hankford, Lord Chief-Justice, temp. Henry Y. and VI., and the judge, accord¬ ing to an absurd Devonshire tradition, who was insulted by Henry of Monmouth. Annery House (W. Tardrew, Esq.) was long the seat of the Hankfords, and the aforesaid Judge Hankford enter¬ tained therein the stately Edward IV. It was then one of the noblest mansions in Devon, with trim gardens, and pleasaunces, and clipped yew-walks— “ Where west winds with musay wing About the cedarn alleys fling N*rd and cassia’s balmy smells,” 208 FROM EXETER TO BIDEFORD. with ancestral oaus, and nimble deer, and “ the broad land locked river spread out like a lake beneath.” To Hankford’s oak is attached a famous legend :—“ How that old Chief-Justice Hank- ford (whom some contradictory myths make the man who com¬ mitted Prince Henry to prison for striking him on the bench), weary of life, and sickened at the horrors and desolations of the Wars of the Roses, went down to his house at Annery, and bade his keeper shoot any man who, passing through the deer-park at night, should refuse to stand when challenged ; and then going down into that glen himself, and hiding himself beneath that oak, met willingly by his keeper’s hand the death which his own dared not inflict”— [Kingsley). He who would know more about this delectable spot, let him consult the chapter in “Westward Ho !” entitled “How Bideford Bridge dined at Annery House.” At Frithelstoke, 3 miles west, are the ruins of an old priory, founded by Robert de Bello Campo (Fairfield), temp. Henry III. Beyond the Torridge, a short distance south of the town, stands Cross Hodse (Mrs. Stevens), and 5£ miles south, near Petrockstow, is Heanton House (Lord Clinton). The old road from Torrington to Bideford, 5 miles, passes near WEAR GIFFORD (population, 551), and its ancient man¬ sion (Earl Fortescue), possessing some curious tapestry, much exquisite carving, and an oaken ceiling which is of singular beauty and interest. The new road runs past Orleigh (J. Lee, Esq.), right, and Yeo Yale (Mrs. Morrison), left, leaving ABBOTS- HAM ("population, 361), its village, church, and court-house (R. Best, Esq.), on the left, as it joins the Hartland and Bideford road. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—UMBERLEIGH to BARNSTAPLE. Following the course of the Taw we reach (after a five miles’ run) Tawstock Court (Sir B. Wrey), the old house of the Bour- cliiers, occupied by Fairfax in 1646, on the left,—its grounds enriched by groves and brightened by the murmurous Taw ; and BISHOP’S TAWTON (population, 859), on the right, at one time the seat of the bishops of Devonshire. The Church con¬ tains some old armour, and memorials to the Bourchiers and BARNSTAPLE. 209 Chichesters. Two miles beyond, and 39 J from Exeter, we run into the station at Barnstaple. BARNSTAPLE (population, 12,000. Inns: Golden Lion, Fortescue Arms, King’s Arms, Fleece, and Angel)—a parliamentary borough returning two members; a thriving port, exporting com, bark, wool, leather, and earthenware, and importing wine, fruit, coal, and timber ; a busy and prosperous market-town, and the agricultural “ emporium” of North Devon ; and a town of consider¬ able antiquity, finely situated on a broad land-locked river, and in the bosom of gentle hills. It was formerly a demesne of the Saxon kings, and Athelstane is said to have built a castle here in which he occasionally resided. At the division of England among the Conqueror’s adherents the manor fell into the hands of one Judhael de Totnais, who either repaired or rebuilt the Saxon castle, and founded a priory which he dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. Of the former the Keep-mound remains ; the me¬ mory of the latter is preserved in Maudlyn Rock Close. Its revenues, when dissolved by Henry VIII., amounted to £123 per annum. Barnstaple Bridge, originally erected in the thirteenth century, but enlarged and restored in the nineteenth, here spans the river on 16 arches. It is now supplemented by the railway bridge. To the west runs Queen Anne’s Walk, a piazza, rebuilt in 1798, which was designed to serve as a “West-country” Exchange. It is adorned with a statue of “ the good queen ” in whose reign it was originally erected. The Church, dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul, has a remark¬ able spire, struck by lightning in 1816. On each side of the altar stands a life-size marble statue—one of Moses, the other of Aaron. The Albert Memorial, situated near the square, consists of an elegant clock-tower, with drinking fountains at its base. A pleasant tree-bordered promenade on the river-bank is called the North Walk. When the tide is full and the sunset falls in purple glory upon the wooded hills, a stroll in this direc¬ tion is much to be approved of. A new promenade, above the town and adjoining the river, called the South Walk, has recently been formed. In the neighbourhood of Barnstaple, as in the neighbourhood of most Devonshire towns, the enjoyable rambles are very nume¬ rous. For example, you may walk through Juston Quay to Bide- (s. w.) p 210 FROM EXETER TO BIDEFORD. ford ; 9 miles ; or strike northward to Ilfracombe, 10 miles, following the coast route to Morthoe, 3 miles, and Croyde, 4t miles, near Baggy Point—returning via Braunton, Heantoh, and Ashford ; or, to the south-east, to South Molton, 11 miles ; or south-west, to TORRINGTON, 9 miles ; or, finally, through Bishop’s Tawton to Chittlehampton, with its old tower and interesting church, returning by way of Atherington and Taw- stock. The tourist, when in this district, should endeavour to get initiated into the delightful mysteries of squab pie, junkets, Devonshire “clouted cream,” and Devonshire “white pot.” These are delicacies peculiar to the county, and no imitations of them may be endured. The principal seats about the town are— Bickington House (C. Roberts, Esq.), on the west. Tawstock (Sir B. Wrey), 1 mile south. Fremington House (W. Yeo, Esq.), 2J miles west. Upcot (T. Harding, Esq.), on the north bank of the Taw, near Ashford. Pilton House (C. "Williams, Esq.), on the Combe Martin Road, 4 mile north. Raleigh House (now a lace manufactory), on the Yeo. Heanton Court (now a farm house, but formerly a seat of the Bassets) 4J miles west. Youlston Park (Sir A. Chichester), 3 miles north-east. Barnstaple was the birthplace, in 1422, of Lord Chancellor Fortescue; and in 1688, of John Gay. The poet was “ descended from an old family that had been long in possession of the manor of Holdsworthy, and was educated at Barnstaple by Mr. Luck, who taught the school of that town with good reputation ; and a little before he retired from it, published a volume of Latin and English verses. Under such a master he was likely to form a taste for poetry. Being born without prospect of hereditary riches, he was sent to London in his youth, and placed apprentice with a silk-mercer”— (Johnson). Barxstaple Fair (on the second last "Wednesday of September) is the Saturnalia of North Devon, and marked by observances which cannot fail to amuse and interest the stranger. The mayor, corporation, and leading burgesses of the town meet in solemn conclave on the eventful morning to pass around the “ loving cup,” and on a pole projected from the Guildhall window hangs PILTON-ASHFORD-BRAUNTON. 211 a glove gaily adorned with dahlias. On the second day a stag- hunt is duly celebrated, and Devonshire cider is quaffed in the evening with wonderful zest and untiring perseverance. Before we abandon this pleasant town, we must record the fact that brave Sir Bevil Grenville, the cavalier, while commanding the royalist forces atOakhampton during the Civil War, projected the cutting of a deep fosse, or trench, from Barnstaple to the English Channel, nearly 40 miles, and undertook to defend the portion of Devonshire and Cornwall thus insulated against all comers. A similar, but less impracticable design was meditated by the inhabitants of the Freshwater peninsula of the Isle of Wight. BRANCH ROUTE—BARNSTAPLE to ILFRACOMBE, 12 Miles. Crossing the Yeo, we reach, within half a mile of Barn¬ staple, the little village of PILTON (population, 1813), with its ancient Church, chiefly noticeable for its pulpit and the iron stand for the hour-glass, by which “ painful preachers” measured the length of their discourses, and for the doggerel inscribed upon one of its bells :—• “ Recast by Thomas Taylor and Son, Who the best prize for church-hells won At the Great Ex-hi-hi-ti-on In London, 1—8—5 and 1.” Turning to the left, and passing Upcot (T. W. Harding, Esq.), we soon plunge into ASHFORD (population, 191), a village whose sole recommendation is its agreeable position ; and keep¬ ing along the hills—which at times afford very beautiful glimpses of the estuary of the Taw and Torridge, lying in their bosom like a woodland lake— Heanton Court, now a substantial farm¬ house, is the only point of interest before we enter Braunton. BRAUNTON (population, 2364) has the richest pastoral land imaginable in its rear, a wide desolate tract of ocean sand before it, and combines, in a very picturesque manner, the charms of fair rural scenery and bold marine pictures. Its name is derived from an Italian missionary, St. Brannock, who planted the cross in this part of Devonshire a.d. 300, and built a church (as he 212 BRANCH ROUTE-BARNSTAPLE TO ILFRACOMBE. had been instructed by a dream) on the spot where he first met with a litter of pigs. What tourist will disbelieve the story when he sees a significant carving of the pigs and their mother on one of the panels of the church roof, amidst other scriptural em¬ blems ? The church, by the way, is in every respect interesting, and quite a treasure to an ardent antiquary. It contains a fine brass to Lady Elizabeth Chichester, d. 1548, and the steeple- crowned tower enshrines a peal of six really good bells. In the neighbourhood of Braunton Burrows may be gathered wild succory, plumaria primata, sea stock, privet, round-headed club rush, viper’s buglos, small buglos, spurge, euphorbia peplus, prickly saltwort, fuller’s teazel, ragwort, musky stork’s bill, wood lavender, and yellow iris. On the point (about 4 miles from the village) rest the ruins of St. Ann’s Chapel, and on a hill above Braunton, of St. Brannock’s Chapel, built by the good architect with such “substantiality” that no human power is able to remove them. On Castle hill there stands a British camp, enclosing four acres, with a single vallum. Our road now runs N.W. to GEOItGEIIAM (population, 971), 3 miles, where the Early English Church, dedicated to St. George, contains a memorial to Sir Mauger St. Aubyn, died 1292 ; and thence to Morthoe, miles (see p. 152), whence to Ilfracombe (see p. 152), along the coast, is a delightful walk of 3 miles more. (Or from Braunton we may keep northward to WEST DOWNE (population, 600), and so, through a calm still dell, abundantly decorated with verdure and blossom, into ILFRACOMBE. This route is quite two miles nearer, but to our thinking less agreeable than the road through Morthoe.) In the vicinity of Ilfracombe the tourist should visit Crewkhorne Cavern. Lantern and Capstone Hills. Morte Point, and the “ ferny combes” on the coast. WoOLACOMBE SANDS. White Pebble Bat. The Seven Tors. Helesborough Hill, and Water mouth Covb. Chamber Combe (near Water, mouth). EAST DOWNE-TRENTISHOE. 213 BRANCH ROUTE—BARNSTAPLE to LYNTON. (By way of Combe Martin). We turn off to the N.E. after crossing the Yeo, and pass (on our right) the lace manufactory which now occupies the old mansion of the Raleighs, Raleigh House. Our course then takes us past the leafy glades of Youlston Park (Sir A. Chichester, Bart.), and so, through an alternation of goodly land¬ scapes, to EAST DOWN (population, 455), whence we diverge to the N.W., and descend into the valley of Combe Martin (see p. 155), 11 miles. In this neighbourhood the tourist should visit— Bbrrynarbor, and its old mansion, temp. Edward IV. Bowden, the birth-place of John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury, 1522. The Hanging Stone, the boundary-mark of Combe Martin, p. 155. Smallmouth, and its two caverns. Watermouth (A. D. Basset, Esq.) The hill road to Lynton is one of the most romantic routes ever trodden by wayfarer, and commands such noble panoramas of sea and land as cannot fail to inspire the imagination and stir the heart. Ascending the Little Hangman, 1083 feet, we after¬ wards conquer, in succession, the difficulties of the Great Hangman, 1200 feet above the sea level; Holstone Barrow, 1087 feet; and Trentishoe Barrow, ere we enter TRENTISHOE (population, 129-), where there is a small Church, dedicated to St. Peter, and proceed through sombre pine woods, idled with floating shadows, into the fair strange valley of Heddon’s Mouth. Climbing the uplands, steep and shadowy, we soon reach Martinhoe, make for Woodabay and Lee Bay, and pass through the wondrous valley of rocks to Lynton (see p. 156). In the neighbourhood of Lynton should be visited— Lee Abbey (C. Bailey, Esq.), at Lee Bay. The Waters’-meet. Countisbury, and its lonesome Church. The Castle Rock, and the Devil’s Cheesewring (valley of rocks). The Valley op the West Lyn. Heddon's Mouth {Inn: The Hunter’s Rest). 214 BRANCH ROUTE-BARNSTAPLE TO BAMPTON. Glenthorne (Mrs. Halliday), 5 miles. Bren'DON, its church and valley. Simon’s Bath (F. Knight), on the Barle, 9 miles. Lyndale, or Valley of the East Lyn. Pollock (Inn : The Ship). [Oare Hill; Dunkery Beacon ; Ashley Combe (Earl of Lovelace); Culbone, with its miniature church, in a wonderfully deep hollow; and Holnicote (Sir T. D. Acland.)] BRANCH ROUTE—BARNSTAPLE to BAMPTON, 26 Miles. The first village we reach on our way to South Molton is LANDKEY (population, 758), miles—from whence a road runs through WEST BUCKLAND (population, 279), where the Early English Church has been rebuilt, and EAST BUCKLAND (population, 149), to NORTH MOLTON (population, 1982), 10 miles, whose Church, restored in 1849, presents for the traveller’s notice a fine pulpit of stone, and a screen and reredos richly carved.* From Landkey, we make for SWIMBRIDGE (pop. 1738), 2 miles, on a tributary of the Taw, and pause before its ancient and interesting Church. Three miles further south we arrive at FILLEIGH (population, 267)— Castle Hill (Earl Fortescue), on the left—cross the Bray at Stag’s Head, 2 miles, turn to the left; and finally enter SOUTH MOLTON (see p. 206), after a twelve miles’ ramble through a delicious pastoral landscape. Here, at “ The George” or “ Unicom ” the pedestrian may soberly refresh himself. At lj mile from South Molton the road branches into two ; one of the routes passes through Roseash, 5 miles ; Rackenford, 4 miles ; Loxbear, 4 miles ; and Calverleigh, 2 miles, into TIVERTON (see p. 195), 2 miles = 18 miles, the country pos¬ sessing all the rare sweet charms of the pastoral scenery of Devon¬ shire ; the other runs direct to BAMPTON, by way of Knowstone and Okeford =16 miles, crossing numerous streams, ascending well-wooded hills, penetrating into dark, deep dells, traversing richly-cultivated fields, and opening up a country which is scantily populated, hut replete with a charm and interest of its own. * At Flytton, in this parish, there is an oak said to be mentioned as a landmark in Domesday Book. It is of great size, and the foliage at one time overshadowed an acre of ground. NEWTON TRACEY. 215 BRANCH ROUTE—BARNSTAPLE to HOLSWORTHY, 25 Miles. Via Torrington. In these Branch Routes it seems to us unnecessary to de¬ scribe at any length the landscape beauties of the country through which we travel, and upon which we have generally dwelt with considerable fulness in our notices of the places lying upon the chief lines of railway and main roads. It is our object simply to provide the tourist with a table of localities and distances, enlivened by a few brief words of explanation to relieve it from the tedium of an itinerary. Thus: from Barnstaple to Tor¬ rington, 9 miles, the road lies through as agreeable a district as one could wish to explore, but the points of interest are few. NEWTON TRACEY (population, 143), 3 miles, belonged to the old knightly family of that name—of whom came William de Tracey, one of the murderers of Thomas 4 Becket. A fearful doom was visited upon his descendants:— “ The Tracys Have always the wind in their faces a traditional allusion to the supposed discomfiture of the mur¬ derer, who, when he would have expiated his sins by a pilgrim¬ age to Jerusalem, was always driven back by the winds of heaven. ALVERDISCOT (population, 340), 1J mile, has an old, but not a remarkable church ; and round HUNTSIIAW (popu¬ lation, 270), lijr mile (but mile right), there is much pleasant woodland scenery, where, if the wayfarer have the leisure, he may wander “ unreproved,” and joyously explore “ Each lane, and every alley green, Dingle or bushy dell of the wild wood, And every bosky bourn from side to side.” From Torrington the most direct route will be by Cross House (T. G. Johnson, Bart.) and Watergate to LANGTREE (population, 878), 2^ miles ; NEWTON ST. PETROCIv (pop¬ ulation, 272), 5 miles ; across the Torridge ; and MILTON DAMEREL (population, 734), 2^ miles. 216 FROM EXETER TO BIDEFORD. Then across the Waldon to THORNBURY (population, 489), 2 miles—its Early Eng lish church, dedicated to St. Peter—and so into (4 miles) HOLSWORTHY (population, 1833. Inns: White Hart and Stanhope Arms. Market-days: Wednesday and Saturday. Bankers: Dingley and Co., and Robins, Foster, and Co.), 214 miles from London, 25 miles from Barnstaple, and about 44 miles from Exeter. There is little here to interest the tourist ; the Church is Perpendicular, with some tolerable wood-carving, and an ancient font. The Labyrinth, “ a mighty maze (of beech trees), but not without a plan,” was formed by Earl Stan¬ hope, lord of the manor. But on market-days the town grows quite busy and lively, and the Cornish and Devonshire patois fall, with curious effect, upon the unaccustomed ear. It is but 3 miles distant from the Tamar, the boundary between the two counties, and is therefore a convenient point from whence to start on an exploration of the beautiful banks of that famous river. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—BARNSTAPLE to BIDEFORD. The railway from Barnstaple to Bideford was opened in October 1855. Its length is 9$ miles, and it follows with little variation the course marked out by the estuaries of the Taw and the Torridge. The first station is at FREMINGTON (population, 1350), where the Taw gets clear of its sandbanks and deepens into an arm of the sea : the second is at INSTOW QUAY (see p. 151), 6$ miles, which occupies a fine position at the junction- point of the two rivers, and enjoys such a varied prospect of sea and land, and river, of sandy tracts and broad green meadows, as few towns in England can boast of. A three miles’ run brings us to BIDEFORD (pp. 147-151). 2i7 ROUTE V.—BIDEFORD to HARTLAND. By Rom [Fairy Cross, 4 m.; Buck’s Mill, 3 m.; The Hobby, 1 m.; Clovelly, S£ m. ; Eaitland, 5 m. = 16 m.] In our coast-route (pp. 144-148) from Hartland to Bideford, we have described with sufficient fulness the principal places of interest which adorn the north-western shore of Devon, but to many, a sea-voyage is a thing to be apprehended, and others, by “ divers circumstances,” may be constrained to a pedestrian journey. We shall therefore point out, very briefly, the course to be adopted by the tourist who would adventure by road “from Bideford to Hartland,” and we may add, that even in Devonshire it would be difficult to discover a more delightful route. Throughout the whole sixteen miles, the tourist’s eyes will be charmed with a succession of beautiful pictures, and if he be an artist, or a lover of art, he will be reminded at one point of Turner’s ethereal conceptions; at another, of the force and depth of Creswick; here, of the poetical power of Gains¬ borough ; there, of the rude fidelity of Morland. Nature in all her ruggedness; nature subdued by art; wild bosky glens, haunted by mysterious shadows ; rich woodland vales murmurous with falling waters; bleak, bare cliffs, where the sea-bird builds her nest; the rippling stream, the broad and billowy ocean; the yellow cornfield and the blossomy garden ; these succeed one another like the rapid and surprising changes of a fairy pano¬ rama. At 2 miles from Bideford we pass (right) ABBOTSHAM (population, 361), with its plain old church, and Abbotsham Court (R. Bert, Esq.), rejoicing in the glory of abundant leafiness. [The road on the left leads through ALWINGTON (population, 374), Alwin’s Town, to Yew Yale (Mrs. Morrison), and BUCK- LAND BREWER (population, 977), i.e.. Bruere, an old Norman family, where is a small British encampment.] 218 FROM BIDEFORD TO HARTLAND. Portledge, which has belonged to the Coffin family since Henry I.’s reign, occupies a good position on the cliff. At 7 miles from Bideford, a road on the right winds down a steep descent to Buck’s Mill, a little fishing village, very pictu¬ resquely situated. At various points the tourist will come upon those romantic glens—leafy, and musical with running water, and opening upon the sea with sudden beauty—locally called “ Mouths.” About 1 mile further, and just beyond the eighth milestone from Bideford, a gateway will be noticed by the observant traveller. Entering here, he will wander for 3 miles along a well-made road, and under a roof of the thickest foliage—passing the heads of many of the lovely combes already alluded to, and catching the most fairy-like glimpses of the distant channel, and the low white cloud of Lundy Island, reposing against the western sky. This road was laid out by the proprietor of Clovelly Court (Sir J. H. Williams, Bart.), through whose delightful grounds it runs, and is appropriately named The Hobby. Would that similar “hobbies” were ridden by all the great landowners of England! Emerging from the pleasant shadow of the Hobby, we descend by a succession of “'jumps ” in the ground into Clovelly, described in pp. 146-7, and thence to the beach, from whence a magnificent view of Lundy Island, the Welsh coast, and the Devonshire coast, especially of Bideford Bay, may be enjoyed. Be turning to the hill-top, we pass by the Yellaries Gate into the private grounds of Clovelly Court, to which (with a guide), Sir. J. H. Williams readily admits the tourist. The great points here to be visited are— Gallantry Bower, a cliff 387 feet high; Mill Mouth ; and the Black Church rock. The tourist may then continue through the beautiful park, and along the cliff, to Hartland Point, 350 feet above the sea-level,—Ptolemy’s Promontory of the Tyrian Hercules,—and the boundary of the English Channel—and thence, up the hollow, to Hartland Town. Or, At Clovelly Cross he may turn into the high road, pause to inspect the Clovelly Dykes, a circular camp protected by a triple vallum, and so proceed to Hartland (pp. 144-5). In this neighbourhood the traveller should visit— Hartland Abbey (Sir G. Stucley, Bart.) Hartland Quay, 2 miles, a sea-side village. STOKE ST. NECTAN CHURCH. 219 Milford Valley. Wellcombe Mouth. Marsland Mouth, celebrated in the pages of Kingsley’s “ Westward Ho !” Stoke St. Nectan Church, 2 miles west, formerly attached to Hartland Abbey. The tower is 128 feet high ; the pinnacles rise 16 feet higher. The memorials are very curious, and a brass commemorates Anne Abbott, died 1611. On a slab in the pave¬ ment is graven the date 1055. The carvings on the font repre¬ sent “ the just” looking down upon “ the unjust.” The pulpit, of black oak, carved and canopied, bears the figure of a tusked goat, and the lettering, “ God save King James Finis”—the word Finis being, perhaps, the carver or donor’s name, and the goat his escutcheon. The screen is elaborately enriched with carved work. The Coast Scenery generally should be carefully explored. In its rude bold crags, fantastic projections, steep iron-bound cliffs, and obscure recesses, the tourist will find a constant source of delighted wonder ; and there are wild legends associated with them to be gathered from the lips of the aged peasant:— “ And such the strange mysterious din At times throughout these caverns roll’d, And such the fearful wonders told Of restless sprites imprison’d there, That bold were fisher who would dare, At twilight hour, to steer his skiff Beneath the wizard’s lonely cliff”—( Moore ). [The wayfarer desirous of returning to Bideford by a different route, may leave the high road at the 13th milestone, turn to the right, and then keep in a south¬ easterly direction, as far as WOOLFARDISWORTHY (population, 824). From thence he may strike inland to East Potford ; turn to the north-east, and make for Parkham, regaining the Bideford road near the 5th milestone. Or, from East Putford he may cross the country to Buckland Brewer, and so, by way of Frithelstoke, into Torrinqton. Return to Bideford through Wear Gifford J 220 BIDEFORD to OKEHAMPTON. By RoaiJ. fWear Gifford, 4 m. ; Torrington, 2 m.; Hatherleigh, 12 m. ; Inwardlelgh, S m.; Okeh&mptoD, 4 m. = 25 m.] The Valleys op the Torridge and the Ockment. “ I pity the man,” exclaims Sterne, “ who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and say that ‘ all is barren.’ ” And, indeed, one may well pity the wayfarer who can traverse any English district, and experience “ the tedium of travel.” The sources of amusement, of instruction, of intellectual gratification, are end¬ less, and every object may enliven an old train of thought, or suggest a new one. Take, for instance, the village church. What is its age ? Who built it 1 Was it erected by a wealthy land- owner, by pious monks, or the members of a trade guild ? Why was so stately a building erected in a locality apparently so thinly peopled ? Has the tide of population moved in another direction ; and if so, what may have been the causes ? Here is a church utterly inadequate to the needs of its neighbourhood ; here is another perched upon a hill, at a weary distance from any human habitation. Yonder church has a tall and shapely spire ; within a mile, you come upon another sanctuary, which has only a gray square tower. Was the spire raised above the woods as a landmark for belated travellers ? Was the stalwart tower built so substantially to serve in critical times as a strong¬ hold ? Enter the church, and subjects for observation multiply. Re¬ mark its examples of various styles of architecture; the heavy WEAR GIFFORD-TORRINGTON. 221 Norman, the graceful Early English, the rich and elaborate Decorated, the florid Perpendicular. Every arch, every pillar, every window ; the carved pulpit; the ornamented screen ; sedilia, piscina, aumbry ; traces of a rude fresco ; a half-oblitera¬ ted brass ; effigies of knights and dames, curiously illustrative of changes of costume, all these demand, and will amply repay your careful and intelligent examination. Then Nature is inexhaustible; the deep glen, through which a torrent once ruthlessly poured ; the hollow, where tran¬ quil waters formerly slept; the wayside flower ; the ferny bank ; the green and blooming hedge ; the pebbly rivulet, meadow, and cornfield, and garden, and orchard ; the varying soil, and the vegetable life peculiar to it; here are sources of inquiry and meditation which can never fail. Every ancient manor-house, every quiet grange, every moul¬ dering ruin, the broken cross, the desecrated chapel, the gorgeous abbey-refectory, now converted into a substantial barn; the castellated mansion, now all renovated and modernized; how illustrative are these of the wonderful revolution of English history ! How suggestive of tale, and legend, and song ! What endless sources of thought and fancy for the traveller who has eyes to see and a heart to feel! Therefore we pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beer- sheba and protest that all is barren ! The road from BIDEFORD to OKE HAMPTON, for instance, does not pass through a country which affords the topographer much scope for illustration ; but not the less is it rich in such subjects for interesting speculation, as we have ventured to indi¬ cate in the foregoing paragraphs. Across the river, west, lies Annery (see p. 207). Four miles, WEAR GIFFORD. Ancient manor-house (Early English), with a noble gate-house. An oak here measures 28 feet in girth. Junction of the Yeo with the Torridge. Aqueduct on which Lord Rolle’s canal crosses the river. Six miles from Bideford, Torrington (see pp. 206-7). Here we cross the river, and keeping Cross House on our right, turn southward, and make the best of our way into LITTLEHAM (population, 413). Three and a half miles, Potheridge, the birth-place of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, lies 1 mile left, on the road to MERTON 222 BTDEEORD TO OKEHAMPTON. (population, 790). The spacious stables are all that remain of the magnificent mansion built here by Monk about 1670-3. Three and a half miles (6 miles from Hatherleigh), Heanton House (Lord Clinton). 2 miles left, HUISH (population, 161), where a bridge crosses the Torridge. Two miles, PETROCKSTOW (population, 574)— i.e., Petrock’s Place—an insignificant and uninteresting village. 2 miles left, MEETH (population, 333). One mile. Cross the Torridge, which now runs eastward as far as Bradford, and then strikes to the north-west. HATHERLEIGH (population, 1710. Inns: George, and London. Bankers: Dingley and Co. Markets: Tuesday), 200 miles from London, and 11 miles from Torrington. The Church is a very stately and commodious Perpendicular building, with a fine roof of ribbed oak. The memorials are of little interest, but some architectural details may be studied with advantage. In the neighbourhood are Burdon (C. Burdon, Esq.), about 2 miles beyond High Hampton ; and Dunsland (W. B. Coham, Esq.), 8 miles west, on the road to Hatherleigh. The surrounding district is one of the least fertile and worst cultivated in Devon, and fully merits the memorable character bestowed upon it in the local quatrain,— “ The people are poor, As Hatherleigh moor; And so they have been, For ever and ever.” BRANCH ROUTE—HATHERLEIGH to STRATTON. This is a route well adapted to open up to the traveller the leading characteristics of Western Devon, but between Hatherleigh and Holsworthy there is not a milage on which the topographer can dilate. HIGH HAMPTON (population, 338) lies to the north ; and nearer Holsworthy, the church and cottages of HOLLACOMBE (population, 103) are situated to the south of the main road. Passing through Holsworthy we take the roac. to the right, and cross, first the Week, and afterwards, at Ander ton, 5 miles, the Tamar. Then, entering Cornwall, at 1 mile beyond, we reach Blake's Cross, where our road is intersected S7 RATION. •23 by the highway from Launceston, south, to Kilkhampton, north. Two miles further, and we enter STRATTON' (population, 1019. Inn : The Tree), 221 miles from London, and about three quarters of a mile from Bude Haven. Between Bude and Launceston runs an excellent canal, of which we shall shortly speak ; and a branch connects Holsworthy with Stratton, running to the right of the Holsworthy road. In Stratton itself, notwithstanding its Roman name—“ street-town,” i.e., the town on the Roman road—and its consequent antiquity, there is little to be seen. The Church is mainly Early English, and contains a stately tomb to Sir John Arundell, Knight, his wife, and their thirteen children. The brasses are good. The Bude Canal was constructed by the late Lord Rolle, between the years 1819-26, at a cost of £128,000, and from the designs of an engineer named Green. A pier was at the same time built at BUDE HAVEN (population, 677. Inn: The Falcon),* extending from the west shore to the Great and Little Chapel Rocks. At Hobbacote Down, 1 £ mile south-east, the canal boats descend the uplands by means of an inclined plane, about 900 feet long, which is provided with two lines of rails, terminating at each end in the canal, and worked by an endless chain. They are furnished with small iron wheels, and run on these rails, being made fast to the chain, which is moved by twc vast tanks, 8 feet in diameter, alternately filled with water, and descending into wells 220 feet in depth. The tank which is first lowered is emptied by a simple contrivance, and raised again to the surface by the other tank, which descends through the weight of its water load, is emptied in its turn, and once more ascends as the other descends. Thus the chain is kept in motion, and the barges raised or lowered on the inclined plane. Between Bude and Launceston there are seven of these ingenious substi¬ tutes for a series of locks. fBiNHAMY, Jmile south, is a pleasant farm situated amidst well-cultivated fields and blossoming orchards. Here a quadrangular moat, almost concealed by its overgrowth of bush and bramble, indicates the site of the feudal stronghold of a certain Ranulph de Blancminster, or “ Blownianger,” as he is popularly called, who * The cliffs here are of great height, and singularly diversified. The route from Bude to Bideford via Clovelly is as follows : Bude to Clovelly, 18 miles, Clovelly Cross, 2 miles, Bideford, 14 miles. 224 FROM BIDEFORD TO OKEHAMPTON. withdrew' himself from social life, and spent his years in melancholy seclusion within his moated castle. By his will he bequeathed all his goods and chattels for the good of the poor of the parish, among whom a sum of £80 is still annually divided. His spirit, it is said, haunts the moat in the guise of a hare, so that the tourist, if addicted to sporting pursuits, may possibly secure him. LAUNCELLS (population, 728), 2 miles south-east, has a pretty Church, ap¬ parently of no great antiquity, and a pleasant manorial mansion, Launcells House (G. B. Kingdon, Esq.), whose surrounding demesne is agreeably picturesque. Morton, a farm lying to the north, but included in the Launcells estate, takes its name from its ancient lord, Robert de Mortaigne, Earl of Cornwall, and half- brother of William the Conqueror. Stamford Hill, § mile north, was the scene on the 16th of May 1643, of the great defeat of the Earl of Stamford and the Parliamentarian forces (estimated at 5400 foot, and 1200 horse, and with 14 pieces of cannon), by the Royalists (2400 foot, and 500 horse), under Sir Ralph Hopton and Sir Bevil Grenville. The Roundheads occupied the hill, but were charged with such spirit by the Cavaliers, that they at length gave way, fell into a panic, and took to flight in great disorder. A memorial column, which perpetuated the fame of this signal victory, was destroyed towards the close of the last century, but the tablet formerly affixed to its base is now placed against the wall of the Tree Inn, and bears the following inscription :— “ In this Place, Te army of ye Rebells under ye Command of ye Earl of Stamford Received a signal Overthrow by the Valor Of Sir Bevill Grenville and ye Cornish army, On Tuesday, ye 16th of May 1643.” The remains of a tumulus are visible on the crest of the hill, and the bones nl the brave dead are often turned up by the ploughshare.] MAIN ROUTE RESTBIED—HATHERLEIGH to OAKHAMPTON. Two roads are available for the tourist; the longest, hut cer¬ tainly the pleasantest, winds through the valley of the Ockment and passes through the quiet little village of JACOBSTOW (population, 255). The other runs in nearly a direct line, by way of INWARDLEIGH (population, 693), whose simple old Church stands on the right of the road. The village is small and scattered. Okehampton or Oakhampton, and its neighbourhood, have been fully described in pages 201-204. We have now to indicate to our readers two agreeable Excursions, for which it will afford a convenient starting-point. BRIDESTOW. 226 BRANCH ROUTE—OKE HAMPTON to EXETER, 22 Miles. (See pp. 199-203). 1 mile, Okf, Ham pton Castle. 1 mile, Belstone (and Church). 1 mile, Sticklepath (and digress along the banks of the Taw). 1 mile, South Zeal. 7 miles, Crockernwell (and digress to Drewsteignton, Fingle Bridge and the Moving Stone ; or to Dunsford, and thence, by Great Fulford, to St. Mary Tedburn). £ mile, Cheriton Cross. £ mile, Cheriton Bishops (and Church). 2£ miles, St. Mary Tedburn (and Church). 4 miles. [WHITSTONE (population, 624), 1 mile left.] 1£ mile, Barley House, on the right. l£ mile, EXETER—[pp. 174-191]. BRANCH ROUTE—OKEHAMPTON to LAUNCESTON, 17 Miles. By the Great Western Road. Our route takes us for a mile or so along the north-west border of bleak and desolate Dartmoor. At 3£ miles from Oak- hampton a road branches off to Tavistock, 14£ miles, traversing a country of infinite variety and extraordinary interest (see Route YIL), while, passing Sourton Down, our own less romantic high¬ way continues to BRIDESTOW (population, 1049), 3 miles, where there is something to be seen in the half Norman half Early English Church on the right, and in the delightful grounds of Leawood House (S. C. Hamlyn, Esq.), on the left. At 8£ miles from Okehampton we cross a tributary of the Lyd, and at 9j miles pass through LEWTRENCHARD (popula¬ tion, 436), an utterly uninteresting collection of Devonshire cottages. 10 miles, New Inn. (s.w.) Q 226 FROM OKEHAMPTON TO DEVONPORT. 11 miles, Haine Castle (Mrs. Harris), on the right, and just beyond, to the north-east, the Church and village of STOWFORD [population, 576), on the river Tinhay. Crossing the Tinhay, at 15 miles from Okehampton, we reach LIFTOX (population, 1667), a village to be commended to the angler, as the numerous streams in its vicinity abound in trout. The manor anciently belonged to the Arundel family. The Church is mainly Early English. 1 mile beyond we pass Lifton Park (H. Blagrove, Esq.), and cross the line of the Tamar Canal. We soon afterwards cross the Tamar itself, and at 17 miles from Okehampton enter LAUN¬ CESTON. OKEHAMPTON to DEVONPORT. By the Tavistock Road. [Soarton, 4 m. ; Lydford, 4$ m. ; Brent Tor, 3J m. ; Tavistock, 3J m. ; or, Sour- ton, 4 m. ; St. Mary Tavy, 8 m. ; Tavistock, 2J m.] By Tavistock and Plymouth Railway. [To Horrabridge, 4 ra. ; Brickleigh, 5 m.; New Bridge Junction, 3 m. ; Plymouth, for Devonport, 3 m.] The road skirts the north-western portions of Dartmoor until it divides into two branches, one of which runs in a south-westerly direction to Launceston (see Cornwall), —the other, and that which we are about to adopt, diverges to the south, leaving Yeo Tor on the left, and at Downton, 8 miles, turning aside (on the right) to Lydford, on the river Lyd, 8£ miles from Oak- hampton. LYDFORD (population, 1968. Inn: The Dartmoor Arms), though now a miserable collection of ragged cottages, was one of the principal towns of Saxon Devonshire, and possessed a mint in the reign of Ethelred IL Edward II. bestowed the castle and LYDFORD. 227 lordship on his minion, Piers Gaveston, and the town maintained some degree of respectability as late as the reigns of the Stuarts. Its Castle, now reduced to a hollow square tower mouldering upon an artificial mound, was founded soon svfter the Conquest, and converted by Edward I. into the Stannary Prison of Devonshire. Until about 100 years ago it was still made use of for this pur¬ pose, though much defaced and shattered in 1650. The edicts of the Stannary Court partook to a considerable extent of the distinguishing characteristics of Lynch Law, and “ Lydford Law ” became equally famous for a contemptuous disregard of justice. Browne, the Tavistock poet, exclaims,— “ I’ve ofttimes heard of Lydford law. How in the morn they hang and draw, And sit in judgment after; At first I wonder’d at it much, But, since, I’ve found the matter such That it deserves no laughter. “ They have a castle on a hill; I took it for an old windmill, The vanes blown off hy weather: To lie therein one night, ’tis guessed ’T were better to be ston’d or press’d, Or bang’d, ere you come hither.” Sir Richard Grenville was castellan of Lydford during the reign of Charles I., and many tyrannical actions are ascribed to him. Judge Jeffreys held here one of his Black Assizes, and the legend runs that the court-room is still haunted by his spirit in the guise of a black pig. Near the castle stands the gray, old, Early English Church, principally noticeable for the simplicity of its interior, its weather¬ worn aspect, and the noble prospects it commands. On a tomb¬ stone in the churchyard may be observed the following well- known epitaph :— “Here lies, in Horizontal position, the outside Case of George Rout- leigh, Watchmaker, whose abilities in that line were an honour to hie profession : Integrity was the Main-spring, and Prudence the Regulator of all the actions of his life: Humane, generous, and liberal, his hand never stopped till he had relieved distress ; so nicely regulated were all his movements that he never went wrong except when set a going by 228 FROM OKEHAMPTON TO DEVONPORT. People who did not know his Key: Even then, he was easily set right again : He had the art of disposing his Time so well that his Hours glided away in one continued round of Pleasure and Delight, till an unlucky Moment put a Period to his Existence: He departed this life November 14, 1802, aged 57, Wound up in hopes of being taken in Hand by his Maker, and of being thoroughly cleaned, repaired, and set a-going in the World to come.” From the church we may make our way to Lydford Bridge, a single arch of gray stone flung across a narrow chasm or gulf, 80 feet in depth, which opens suddenly, as it were, in the earth, and receives the scanty waters of the Lyd. Descending the pro¬ jecting crags which hang over the river, the tourist will be enabled to fully comprehend the character of this remarkable scene. At a few paces below the bridge the ravine widens, and, “ instead of the dark precipices which have hitherto overhung and obscured the struggling river, it now emerges into day, and rolls its mur¬ muring current through a winding valley, confined within magni¬ ficent banks, darkened with woods, which swell into bold promontories, or fall back into sweeping recesses, till they are lost to the eye in distance. Thickly shaded by trees which shoot out from the rent, the scene at Lydford Bridge is not so terrific as it would have been, had a little more light been let in upon the abyss, just sufficient to produce a ‘ darkness visible.’ As it is, however, the chasm cannot be regarded without shuddering, nor will the stoutest heart meditate unappalled upon the dreadful anecdotes connected with the spot”—( Warner). It is said that a horseman arrived at Lydford from Tavistock at a late hour one night, much to the wonder of the inhabitants, who knew the Lydford Bridge had been broken, and could not understand how he had crossed the chasm. He remembered nothing more than that at a particular point his horse had made a sudden leap, as if frightened by some passing object. When the ravine which he had thus miraculously passed was shewn to him, it was with a shudder that he perceived the extremity of the peril he had escaped. The wild romantic dales of Lydford were formerly the favour¬ ite resort of Roger Rowle, the King of the Gubbins. “ I have read of an England beyond Wales,” says worthy Fuller, “ but the Gubbings’ land is a Scythia within England, and they pure heathens therein. It lieth nigh Brent. For in the edge of Dartmoor it is reported, that some 200 years since, two bad women being MARYSTOW-BRENT TOR. 229 with child, fled thither to hide themselves ; to whom certain lewd fellows resorted, and this was their first original. They are a peculiar of their own making, exempt from bishop, archdeacon, and all authority, either ecclesiastical or civil. They live in cots (rather holes than houses) like swine, having all in common, mul¬ tiplied without marriage into many hundreds. Their language is the dross of the dregs of the vulgar Devonian ; and the more learned a man is, the worse he can understand them. During our civil wars no soldiers were quartered upon them, for fear of being quartered amongst them. Their wealth consisteth in other men’s goods ; they live by stealing the sheep on the moors ; and vain is it for any to search their houses, being a work beneath the pains of any sheriff, and above the power of any constable. Such is their fleetness, they will outrun many horses ; vicious¬ ness, they outlive most men ; living in an ignorance of luxury, the extinguisher of life. They hold together like bees ; offend one, and all will revenge his quarrel.” Fuller adds,—“ Hitherto have I met with none who could render a reason of their name. We call the shavings of fish (which are little worth) gubbings ; and sure it is that they are sensible that the word importeth shame and disgrace.” Lydford Cascade is some distance below the bridge, and is formed by the fall of a stream down a slaty precipice about 150 feet in depth. As the waters shimmer and sparkle through the densest imaginable foliage, and the town of Lydford rises on the hill above, with the gigantic tors of Dartmoor standing out dis¬ tinct and grand against the horizon, the eye surveys a landscape of unusual beauty and remarkable character. The course of the Lyd may he followed to its rise near Yes Tor, passing the small cascade known as Kitts Fall, where a young maiden, named Kitty, was drowned in the attempt to ford the river while swollen with heavy rains—and the basement stones of a curious Celtic hut, near Doe Tor. Or the tourist may descend the river to MARYSTOW (population, 570), strike across to Lifton, and thence into Launceston. Returning from the Cascade into the high road, we continue our route to BRENT TOR (population, 161), 2^ miles, as romantic a village, we verily believe, as exists in England. It lies at the foot of the hill called Brent Toi f or the Burnt Tor. a 230 FROM OK.EHAMPTON TO DEVONFORT peak which rises abruptly out of the heart of meadows and corn¬ fields to the height of 1100 feet above the level of the sea. On its summit stands a small Early English Church, dedicated to “ St. Michael de Rupe,” lighted by one window, and furnished with a good old oaken roof. Its dimensions are said to be 37 feet by 14£ feet, but it looks even smaller. It was built (so runs the legend) by a Plymouth merchant, who, when in great peril of shipwreck, vowed to build a church to St. Michael upon the first point of land his eyes beheld, if the good Saint would save him. Like an honourable merchant he sought to fulfil his vow ; but, at first, was much puzzled by the interference of the Devil, who put in a claim to the upper parts of the Burning Mountain, as being his own indisputable freehold. St. Michael, however, came to the rescue, and summarily kicked the Prince of Darkness from the top to the bottom of the hill, flinging after him a vast piece of rock, which still lies at the base, a proof of the authen¬ ticity of the narrative! The bell of the church bears a curious inscription:—“ Gallus vocor ego, solus per omne sono.” (I am called a cock, because I alone ring out for everything.) At Michaelmas an annual fair was celebrated on this elevated spot by the Abbots of Tavistock, and very gay, and blithesome, and much favoured by the peasantry it continued to be, until Harry the Eighth put down both the abbots and the fair. The graves in the churchyard are few: a fact to be attributed, perhaps, to the “ vulgar error ”—a long prevalent error, not the less—that the rocky soil is so imbued with moisture as to render it impossible to keep a grave empty of water. The whole neigh¬ bourhood is certainly well supplied with springs and streams, and in the village the wells are seldom above 10 or 20 feet in depth. Brent Tor is, in all probability, an extinct volcano, and from its scathed and scarred appearance may derive its name, unless the origin is to be sought for in the bale-fires which, in the old unquiet days, shot up their warning flames upon its lofty and blackened crest. Descending now into the beautiful valley of the Tavy, we soon arrive at TAVISTOCK— i.e., The Settlement on the Tavy. [Population, 7720. Inns: Bedford, and Queen’s Head. 225 m. from London ; 32 m. from Exeter; 30 m. from Dawlish; 27 m. from Teignmouth; 8 m. from TAVISTOCK ABBEY. 231 Two Bridges ; 15 m. from Okehampton ; 13 m. from Devonport ; 11 m. from Launceston; 27 m. from Chudleigh: 21 m. from Moreton Hampstead; 4 m. from Brent Tor; 15 m. from Ivy Bridge: 17 m. from Ashburton ; and 7 m. from Prince Town. 1ST Railway to PLYMOUTH and LAUNCESTON. Bankers —Gill and Co., and Branch of Devon and Cornwall Banking Com¬ pany. Market-day —Friday.] Tavistock, the ancient Tau Vechau, or “ Little Tau,” will probably be regarded by the tourist as one of the pleasantest towns in Devonshire. It is situated in a fertile hollow, which the hill-bom Tavy brightens with its silver waters. It is belted round by a noble girth of lofty heights, whose slopes are rapidly yielding to the wonder-working plough. Its streets are clean, and the houses mostly of a respectable class. The neighbouring woods lend a glory and a beauty to the landscape. Tavistock Abbey, which is said to have “ eclipsed every religious house in Devonshire in the extent, convenience, and magnificence of its buildings,” and whose ruins are now of con¬ siderable extent and unusual interest, was founded in 961 by Orgar, Earl of Devonshire, the father of the “ Elfrida ” who bartered her husband’s life for a king’s love ; endowed and com¬ pleted (981) by his gigantic son Ordulf; and dedicated as a Benedictine house to Sts. Mary and Rumon. In 997 it was plundered and burnt to the ground by the Danes, who carried fire and sword up the Tamar and as far as Lydford, but was re¬ built with greater magnificence, and became a favourite object of the devout liberality of the wealthy and noble. Henry I. was among its most prodigal benefactors. It continued the pride and boast of all the country side, and a source of mingled good and evil, until Henry VIII. suppressed it. At that date its abbots enjoyed a yearly revenue of £902 : 5 : 7, sat in the House of Peers, held a weekly market and a three days’ annual fair, and were supreme over all the Hundred of Tavistock. It became a mitred abbey in 1458. Its site and buildings, its manors and lordships, were bestowed in 1539 upon John Lord Russell, and thus was laid the founda¬ tion of the splendid fortunes of the ducal house of Bedford. Many of the abbots are reputed to have been wise and liberal scholars, and it is certain that they maintained a school for in¬ struction in the Saxon language and literature, and that they established at Tavistock one of the earliest printing-presses in 232 FROM OKL HAMPTON TO DEVOXPORT. England. The first printed copy of the Stannary laws, entitled “Ye Confirmacon of ye Charter perteyninge to all ye Tynners,” and Walton’s (a canon of Osmy) “ Boke of Comfort,” a translation of Boethius’ “ De Consolatione Philosophise,” were issued by the monastic printers. The ruins which now exist of the once opulent abbey are situated on a narrow plain, slightly elevated above the river. Upon the site, and with the materials of the splendid old Chapter- House, a residence was built in 1736 by a certain barbarous ducal steward named Saunders ; and the site of his house is now occupied, in its turn, by the buildings of “The Bedford Hotel,” erected in the Elizabethan style (from the designs of Fowlston) about 1830. In their rear stands a picturesque pinnacled Porch. The Gate-house is in admirable preservation, and the upper room, distinguished by a mullioned window, is used as the Public Library. The main road runs through the archway. Oddest of all odd transformations is that of the old Befectory —where the good monks “ sat and laugh’d, and the rich wine quaff’d ”—into a “conventicle,” or “meeting-house!” And yet neither the spirits of monks nor abbots ever visit the scene of their former glories ! The Abbey Church, which measured 378 feet in length, was destroyed in 1670. Within the pleasant grounds of the vicarage stand the ancient Still-house, and Betsy Grim- bal’s Tower, where, it is said, the unfortunate Betsy Grimbal was murdered shortly after the suppression of the abbey. Some Early English arches, and portions of gray old walls, ivied and mossy, are also in existence, but chiefly incorporated with the surrounding buildings. The borough town of Tavistock owes its rise, of course, to the ancient Abbey, which nourished and fostered it until it was strong enough to make a mock of its unfortunate protector. At ooe time its manufacture of Kersey was considerable, and “ Tavistock Kersey,” was in request throughout the kingdom; but, at present, it appears to thrive upon its large iron-foundries and its connection with the extensive mining districts of Dart moor. A canal extends from hence to the Tamar. The opening of the Tavistock branch of the South Devon railway cannot fail to exercise a favourable influence on the fortunes of the town. During the civil war, Tavistock was strongly Parliamentarian, and was represented in the Long Parliament by sturdy iron- hearted Pym. Frequent collisions, therefore, took place between THE WORTHIES OF TAVISTOCK. 233 the Roundhead burgesses, and the neighbouring Cavalier gentry. Fitzford (south of the town, on the Plymouth new road) held out against “ the rebels ” for some time, but was finally captured by the Earl of Essex, in 1644. In the following year, Prince Charles rode over to Tavistock from the Royalist camp before Plymouth, but saw it under the unfavourable circumstance of unintermitting storms of rain. The impression produced was so strong, that, in after years, when any one near him remarked that it was a fine day, he would reply, “ Odd’s fish ! fine enough here, but it is sure to be raining at Tavistock !” The Worthies of Tavistock (and its vicinity) have always held their own ” in English literature, law, and arms. Sir Francis Drake , the most illustrious of the Elizabethan “ sea-dogs,” was the son of “ an honest mariner of Tavistock,” and bom at Crowndale, about 1 mile south-west, circa 1545. According to some accounts, his god-father was Sir Francis Russell, afterwards first Earl of Bedford. Sir John Glanville, an eminent English judge, was bom at Kilworthy, 1 f mile north. According to Fuller, his son, also named John, and two other Devonshire lawyers, Dew and Harris, were made sergeants-at-law about the same time, so that the saying ran— The judge was unhappy in his domestic relations. His daughter was executed for murder, and his eldest son, Francis, he was com¬ pelled to disinherit. It is said that, years afterwards, when the second son, Sergeant Glanville, was holding high state in the halls of Kilworthy, the prodigal returned. He was warmly welcomed, and a grand banquet given in his honour, where, when his cover was removed, he found a brother’s splendid gift—all the title-deeds of the Kilworthy lands ! Mrs. Bray, the novelist, the widow of Stothard the artist, and now of the late Vicar of Tavistock, must here be mentioned. In her works, she has ably painted much of its scenery, and described the rarest beauties of Devon and Cornwall with a graphic and picturesque pen; while her pages are enriched with those legendary and historical asso¬ ciations which lend a fresh charm to the fairest landscape. William Browne, one of the sweetest of pastoral poets, and of whom old Wood says, that “ as he had a little person, so he had 234 FROM OKEHAMPTON TO DEVONPORT. c. great mind,” was a native of Tavistock, where he was horn in 1590. In his “Britannia’s Pastorals”—“a vast store-house oi rural imagery and description”—the beautiful episode of the “ Loves of the Walla and the Tavy,” proves how keenly he enjoyed, and how finely he appreciated the admirable scenery which encircles his birth-place. There is also much charming poetry in his eclogues, “ The Shepherd’s Pipe.” Browne died at Ottery St. Mary (according to Wood) in the winter of 1645. We must not weary our readers with quotations from an almost forgotten poet, and yet we cannot refrain from placing before them one short passage, wherein the imagery is evidently derived from his native Devonshire :— “ 0 ye, the heavenly creatures of the west, In whom the virtues and the graces rest, Pardon! that I have run astray so long, And grown so tedious in so rude a song. If you yourselves should come to add one grace Unto a pleasant grove, or such like place, Where here the curious cutting of a hedge, There, in a pond, the trimming of the sedge ; Here the fine setting of well-shaded trees, The walks there mounting up by small degrees, The gravel and the green so equal lie, It, with the rest, draws on your lingering eye; Here the sweet smells that do perfume the air, Arising from the infinite repair Of odoriferous buds, and herbs of price, (As if it were another Paradise), So please the smelling sense, that you are fain Where last you walk’d to turn and walk again. There the small birds, with their harmonius notes, Sing to a spring that smileth as she floats: For in her face a many dimples shew, And often skips as it did dancing go: Here, further down, an over-arched alley That from a hill goes winding in a valley, You spy at end thereof a standing lake, Where some ingenious artist strives to make The water (brought in turning pipes of lead Through birds of earth most lively fashion’d^, PARISH CHURCH OP TAVISTOCK. 235 To counterfeit and mock the sylvans all In singing well their own sweet madrigal. This, with no small delight retains your ear, And makes you think none blest but who live here. Then, in another place, the fruits that be In gallant clusters decking each good tree, Invite your hand to cross them from the stem, And liking one, taste every sort of them : Then to the arbours walk, then to the bowers, Thence to the walks again, thence to the flowers; Then to the birds, and to the clear spring thence, Now pleasing one, and then another sense.” Of the gardens of many old Devonshire houses this quaint description still holds good, and for such “ trim pleasaunces ” we ourselves, we confess, have a hearty liking. The Parish Church is dedicated to St. Eustachius, a stately Perpendicular pile, with a tower, nave, and triple chancel, thoroughly restored, at the Duke of Bedford’s expense, in 1846. Its memorials are of high interest. Some bones of extraordinary size, discovered in a stone coffin among the debris of the abbey, are reputed to be those of the giant Earl Ordulf :— “ A giant I, Earl Ordulf men me call, ’Gainst Paynim foes Devonia’s champion tall; In single fight six thousand Turks I slew; Pulled off a lion’s head, and ate it too : With one shrewd blow, to let Saint Edward in, I smote the gates of Exeter in twain ; Till aged grown, by angels warn'd in dream, I built an abbey fair by Tavy’s stream.”— (Kingsley). This famous earl, according to William of Malmesbury, could stride across a river ten feet wide, and when, on his arrival at Exeter in company with Edward the Confessor, he found the city gates locked and the porter absent, he leaped from his horse, took the bars in his hands, broke them into pieces with the utmost facility, and, wrenching the hinges with his foot, burst open the gates ! Sir John Glanville and his lady are commemorated by a fine monument and well-sculptured effigies, temp. Elizabeth. The 236 FROM OKEHAMPTON TO DEVON PORT. Bouchiers, Earls of Bath, arid other right noble and important personages, are similarly honoured ; and the visitor will observe with pleasure the richly-coloured glass of the eastern window, by Willement, and the exquisite carving of the altar-table. Remark the memorial to Sir John Fitz , of Fitz-ford, and his lady. The vicarage-house was erected by the Duke of Bedford in 1818, and the gardens arranged in their present admirable order by the late vicar, the Rev. E. A. Bray. The river Tavy is crossed here by three bridges, two of which are ancient. The canal be¬ tween Tavistock and the Tamar, completed in 1817 at a cost of £68,000, is also spanned by a plain but substantial bridge. Under Morwell Down the canal passes by a tunnel l| mile in length, and at Morwell Ham Quay communicates with the Tamar by means of an inclined plane, 240 feet in length. A good view of Tavistock is obtainable from the south bridge. Merrivale Bridge. The first excursion the tourist desires to make is to Dartmoor, described p. 240, but as that interesting locality is too extensive for an afternoon’s walk, we shall do better if we content ourselves with a stroll to Merrivale Bridge, and enjoy a foretaste of the stem beauties of the moor. A narrow steep road ascends all the way up from Tavistock, and will test the pedestrian powers of most men. The air, however, is pure and invigorating as we rise in the ascent, while the view of the valley we leave behind is beautiful in the extreme. After a walk of about 2f miles we get on the crest of the hill, and gain a sight of the moor itself in all its solemnity. The first object that strikes us is a rock to our right which bears a wonderful resemblance to the Egyptian Sphynx, especially when seen at sun-set. After passing this curiosity we descend to Merrivale Bridge (see also p. 247), where a road¬ side inn will provide the needful refreshment for our return to Tavistock, or advance by Two Bridges (5 miles further) to Prince’s Town {Inn: Duchess ; see p. 241), about 12 miles from Tavistock. [Hints for Rambles. —1. The first excursion made in this delightful neighbour* hood should be to Fitz-ford, situated 1| mile on the Plymouth road, and pleasantly commemorated in Mrs. Bray’s romance of “ Fitz of Fitzford.” A barn, and a gateway of the date of Henry VII's reign, are all that tune and man have spared of the ancient seat of the Fitz family. It »as garrisoned for King Charles, in 1644, by its then HINTS FOR RAMBLES. 237 lord, the loyal Sir Richard Grenville, but was captured, after a resolute defence, by the Earl of Essex. Of course, a legend nestles among the gray old stones of this famous ruin :—The daughter and heiress of Sir John Fitz married Sir Richard Grenville, after she had outlived three husbands, each of rank and position, and each of whom she was reputed to have got rid of by foul means. A bold man must Sir Richard have been to woo and wed so suspicious a lady 1 Some good-hearted dame, It appears, secretly carried off the murderess’s infant daughter, who, long years afterwards, returned to Fitzford, and sought to embrace her mother, but the cruel lady, wroth at the proof of her old age afforded by her daughter’s growth, flung her back between the vast folding-doors of her chamber, snapped her arm in twain, and thrust her from her house. What wonder that the lady’s spirit is un¬ quiet, and even now, in the guise of a hound, performs a nightly penance ? To hurry across the moors to Oakhampton Park, and there to gather a blade of grass, in the vain hope that ere long not a trace of verdure shall bless its ample sward t Sir John Fitzford, the father of this ghostly lady, was himself a double murderer —in a drunken bout he slew his neighbour, Sir John Slauning, and, hastening to London to plead for the king’s grace, was overtaken by his servant, who had ridden after him to apprise him of some important tidings. Not recognizing the man in the night darkness, be fired at him and shot him dead, and quickly discovering his fatal error, slew himself in the agony of his remorse. Another of this remarkable race dealt largely in the mysteries of the stars, and yet his superior knowledge did not prevent him from wandering astray, with his wife, amid the bleak, bare wastes of Dartmoor. After many vain efforts to regain the right road, they became so weary and thirsty that it was with infinite delight they came upon a small fresh spring, endowed apparently with miraculous powers, for no sooner had they drank of its waters than they discovered, as if by intuition, the direct path across the moor. In gratitude for so signal a deliverance, and in acknowledgment of the efficacy of its waters, John Fitz placed a memorial in stone over the well for the future benefit of travellers misled by pixies. And, as an un¬ deniable evidence of the truth of this narrative, there, at 1£ mile north of Prince Town, Dartmoor, gushes forth the marvellous stream, while certain rough stone slabs about it are inscribed,—I. F. (for John Fitz), and the date 1568. Continuing further south, we reach Walreddon House (W. Courtenay, Esq.), a quaint building of the date of Edward the Sixth’s reign, embosomed in venerable woods. For the stories which invest it with the charms of the long ago, as well as for some noticeable bits of landscape writing, the tourist may consult Mrs. Bray’s ‘ Courtenay of Walreddon.” From this point we make for BUCKLAND JIONACHORUM (population, 1548), a pleasant village, rejoicing in the great glory and prime excellence of a noble Church. The said Church is a goodly Perpendicular pile, with some fine carving a painted ceiling, fragments of old painted glass, and Bacon’s monument to Lord Heathfield, d. July 6, 1790, the hero of the siege of Gibraltar. About 1 mile south-west stands Bucki.and Abbey (Thomas Gill, Esq.), “a fair new house," built by Richard Grenville, and disposed of by him to illustrious Sir Francis Drake—Philip of Spain’s monster “ Draak ” *—who bequeathed it, with the rest of his landed property to his nephew Francis. An original portrait of the great sea-king, inscribed “zEtat. suae 53, anno 1594 ;” his sword, drum, and bible, are among the memorials here preserved. The old Abbey, a Cistercian house, was founded in 1278, by Amicia de Clare, Countess of Devon, and its position was * See Motley’s History of the Netherlands, etc. 238 FROM OKEHAMPTON TO DEV ONPORT. e minently such as would recommend it to the Cistercian monks,—broad grassy meadows, sloping under the shade of umbrageous groves to the banks of a pleasant river. In the eleventh year of Edward the Third’s reign, the monks obtained per¬ mission to castellate the building. Its revenues, at the Dissolution, were valued at £241 :7 : 9J. The principal remains consist of a square tower, some arches, and hoary walls ; the abbey-orchard, reputed to be one of the earliest planted in Devon¬ shire, still yields an abundant yearly crop. 2. The tourist's second ramble should be in a north-west direction, and embrace Kilworthy, and Mount Tavy, continuing to Lydford, and returning by Brent Tor. Mount Tavy (Mrs. Carpenter) is a good modern mansion on the river bank, and in the shadow of Rowden Wood. Kilworthy was the ancient seat of the Glan- villes, and in the present pile, a Georgian erection, is embodied the old hall. In the valley below ripples the beautiful Walla, whose ardent passion for the Tavy may be read of in Browne’s “Britannia’s Pastorals.” 3. From the Walk —a beautiful promenade between the Tavy and the old walls of the Abbey, of which the men of Tavistock are justly proud—the tourist may turn off to the canal, and keep along its bank as far as Morwellham Quay. He will pass Crowndale, Drake’s birth-place—deriving its name, according to Mrs. Bray, from the “ Elfrida ’’ legend—and, from thence, passing into an active mining district as far as the mouth of the Morwell tunnel, 1} mile in length, will ascend the hill, and strike through a pleasant copse, to the Morwell Rocks. Beneath him flows the lovely Tamar, and the surrounding prospect includes the mining district of Gunnis Lake, the slopes of Hengeston Down, and the leaf-shrouded village of Calstock. In the centre of the river the waters seethe and bubble about the renowned Weir Head, and on the left, above a screen of foliage, rises Harewood House (Sir William Trelawny, Bart ), the scene of Mason’s tragedy of “ Elfrida.” The old his¬ toric legend will doubtlessly be remembered by the tourist; how that King Edgar hearing of the loveliness of Elfrida, daughter of Earl Ordgar of Tavistock, des¬ patched Earl Ethelwold to see if report spake true. How that the Earl, falling in love with the fair lady, espoused her, and on his return to court underrated her charms in grievous terms. How that the King, on pretence of pursuing the chase, ietermined to judge for himself respecting this famous beauty. How that Ethel¬ wold in despair besought his wife to wear her rudest garb, and to hide her charms as much as might be, but the lady, wroth at the deception which had given her to an Earl's bed instead of a King’s, adorned herself with her costliest gems, and shone upon the eyes of the astonished sovereign—a wonder of loveliness I And how fhat King and Earl went out to hunt the deer, and the King returned to woo a willing bride, while the Earl’s cold corpse lay in the woods of Wilverley with an arrow in his heart i From the rocks the tourist will follow a winding path to New Bridge, and turn¬ ing eastward, return by the Callington road into Tavistock. 4. An excursion up the valley of the Tavy as far as Fur Tor (2000 feet above the sea), where it takes its rise, is one to be warmly commended- A romantic defile, through which tl.e river roars and rushes, is known as the Tavy Cleave, and there is much picturesque scenery about ST. PETER TAVY (population, 561) and ST. MARY TAVY (population, 1367), where there is a famous lichen-woven rock, and a rude rustic bridge—the Clam —to be admired. Beyond, are Cudlipp Town and Hill Bridge, where the Tavy foams over a granitic bed. Crossing Fur Tor, the tourist descends into the valley of the West Dart, which he should follow as far as Two Bridges, on the Moreton Hampstead road, 8 miles from Tavistock. Lofty tort, bleak and indely majestic, raise their bare crests above the clouds on every side. LAllERTON. 239 5. The next excursion which our limits permit us to indicate at any length, intro¬ duces the pedestrian to the scenery of the valley of the Walkham—a rapid, rocky streamlet which joins the Tavy, in a nook of Arcadian beauty known as Double Water : about 41 miles south of Tavistock. A mine in this neighbourhood is called the Virtuous Lady, in honour, it is said, of Queen Elizabeth ; but the tradition seems a doubtful one. The stream may then be followed up by a persevering pil¬ grim to Ward Bridge, where the foliage is dense and the rocky bank strikingly picturesque. Next we come to SAMPFORD SPINEY (population, 522), a church and a few cottages perched in an elevated position near the huge mass of granitic Pew Tor. At Merrivale Bridge we regain the main road, and, turning to the left, make the best of our way into Tavistock. 6. Finally, a pilgrimage should be made to SHAUGH (population, 544), and the beautiful vale of Bickleioh, 11 miles. The tourist may go by rail to Bickleigh Sta¬ tion, and return by road, taking Buckiand Abbey in his way. Shauoh Bridge, an elegant structure of hewn granite, is situated near the junc¬ tion of the Meavy and Cad ; the united streams form the Plym. Above the bridge rises an almost perpendicular hill, whose sides present ‘‘fine alternations of over¬ hanging rocks, clustering trees, and luxurious clambering plants." At its base clusters a shadowy mass of woodland overgrowth, in whose midst are conspicuous several venerable oaks, almost bowed to the earth by their superincumbent load of ivy, mosses, lichens, and trailing parasites. “ Nothing is heard but the sweet melody Which the stream makes, contending with the rocks That check its rapid flight”—( Carrington ). The Meavy and the Cad rise, a mile or so apart, on the south-west borders of Dart¬ moor.] BRANCH ROUTE—TAVISTOCK to LAUNCESTON, Miles. At 2£ miles, or nearly, a pleasantly green lane, smiling with blossomy hedge-rows, diverges to LAMERTON (population, 1510), where, according to some authorities, Nicholas Rowe, the dramatist, was bom in 1673. Certainly his ancestors had long been settled at Lamerton, and his father, a lawyer of liberal and cultivated mind, had a house there; but Johnson ascribes the honour of his birth to Little Beckford, in Bedfordshire, On the left of the road, between Tavistock and Lamerton, are situated Ottery Park (H. Tyrrell, Esq.), and Venn House (Rev. W. Gill). In the background rises the well-wooded height of Blanch Down, and beneath it, in the leafy hollow, lies the Elizabethan house of Collacombe, which remained for many generations in the Tremayne family. A window in one of the £40 BRANCH ROCTE-TAVISTOCK TO EXETEA rooms is made of 2000 small panes of glass. Fuller speaks of Nicholas and Andrew Tremayne, as twin-brothers, between whom there existed so wonderful a sympathy that even when miles apart if one experienced pain the other did; if one desired to eat, so did the other ; and at length both were kill ed in the same hour and at the same place, in 1564. At MILTON ABBOT (population, 1242), 5 miles from Tavistock, we turn aside to the left to visit ENDSLE1GH, the beautiful many-gabled semi-Tudor villa of the Duke of Bedford, erected about 1811 from the designs of Sir Jeffrey Wyattville. It stands upon a sunny slope, which extends to the hill-em¬ bosomed Tamar, and is surrounded by terraced gardens and vigorous plantations. The Grotto, the Dairy, the Swiss Cot¬ tage, the Floating Bridge, are points of interest which the tourist (after obtaining permission at the steward’s office) may view with satisfaction. At some distance above the house a cascade plunges down a wall of rock, 120 feet in depth, and rolls onward to the Tamar which winds its silver waters round crag and steep, through wooded dell, and across grassy meads in a thousand fantastic bends and curves. Three miles beyond Milton Abbot is BRADSTONE (popula¬ tion, 160), where an old Tudor house, the former seat of the Cloberrys, is worth examination. The road now crosses the Tamar at Lowle Bridge, and pro¬ ceeds—by way of Lawliitt on—to Launceston. BRANCH ROUTE—TAVISTOCK to EXFTER. T7h Came down in death or sport; ay, when the storm Shook the old woods, they rode, on rainbow wings, The tempest; and, anon, they reined its rage In its fierce mid career. But ye have flown, Beautiful fictions of our fathers!—flown Before the wand of Science, and the hearths Of Devon, as lags the disenchanted year, Are passionless and silent ”—( Carrington ). Near Sheepstor rises the conical hill of granite called Lethitor ; and about 1 mile north sleep the dark waters of Classexwell Pool, long supposed to be unfathomable. But its real depth was ascertained in IS44, when it became necessary to supply the deficient sources of the Plymouth Leet (constructed by Sir Francis Drake) from this apparently inexhaustible reser¬ voir. Plym Head is 3^ miles east of Sheepstor. Here the Cad has its source ; Cad being identical with Plym ; the forme? being the Celtic, the latter the Saxon appellation. A Kistvaen or Celtic sarcophagus lies in the adjoining valley, on the bank of a small tributary of the Plym. CURIOSITIES OF DARTMOOR. 247 The source of the Taw should be explored by the tourist. It rises in a watershed of heath-covered hills, to the east of Cran- mere Pool, and not far from the source of the West Ockment. On the south slope of the watershed rises the Dart, and runs southerly towards Two Bridges. Cranmere Pool lies in the heart of a dangerous morass, 2 miles west of Watern Tor, and is remarkable only from the mystery with which it has been invested by the Devonshire peasants, who have long protested no mortal could ever approach it. It is about 4 acres in extent, and apparently provided with a very scanty supply of water and a superabundance of black mud. On its western boundary rises the spring of the West Ock¬ ment. Bingie, a troublesome elf, was here imprisoned by a potent magician, and compelled to the task of draining the pool dry with a sieve. It chanced, however, that one day the Bingie discovered a bullock’s hide on the neighbouring heath, and so was enabled to empty the pool, and, in revenge, to flood the town of Okehampton, where his powerful persecutor resided. Near Merrivale Bridge a most remarkable collection of Celtic remains will be observed by the tourist. A long avenue of rude stones, 1140 feet long, is terminated at each end by a sacred Druidic Circle, while another circle occurs in the centre. These circles originally consisted of nineteen stones—nineteen being a holy number, and indicating the metonic or lunar cycle, at whose completion the moon would resume her original posi¬ tion in the heavens. About 100 yards to the east runs another Avenue, 800 feet long and about 5 feet wide. Somewhat to the north stands a Rock Pillar, 12 feet in height, and another Sacred Circle, 67 feet in diameter, and formed of ten stones. Observe, too, the ruins of a Cromlech, and, at a short distance from the avenues, a Pound, 175 feet in diameter, which may have been intended as a court of judicature, or, more probably, as a defensive intrenchment. Along the base of this Tor extend the rude foundations of a large British village , and there are nume¬ rous Hut-Circles, known now as “ the Potato Market,” where, during the plague at Tavistock in 1625, the townsmen were accustomed to deposit their money, which the country people fetched, leaving its value in provisions. [Other points of interest are, —The Source of toe Yealm : Erme Pound and the Source of the Erme ; Yes Tor, or West Tor, 2050 feet high , Lynx Tf r, the “ Marshy" Tor ; Amicomise Hill; Newlake; Castor Rock, 3 miles from Cliag- 24S BRANCH ROUTE-TAVISTOCK. TO EXETER. ford — numerous hut-circles, and a stone avenue ; The Lonostone, 1 mile south-west of Castor—a rock-pillar; Fun Tor ; Waters Tor, of granite, with a curious fissure or ravine ; The Sources of the Teign; Fox Tor; Holne Ridge; Pen Beacon ; Three Barrow Tor; Ripf-on Tor; Sittaford Tor— and the Druidic Circles, 120 feet in diameter, called “ the Grey Wethers;” Scorhill Circle, a fine Druidic temple, 100 feet diameter, above the confluence of the Wallabrook and North Teign ; Holy Street, a picturesque village, south of the confluence of the North and South Teign, and near the Puckie Stone; Vitifer Mine; Hooknor Tor, above Grims- pound—but circles ; Challacombe Down —a stone avenue ; Grimspound —Grima's, or the Demon's Pound—a circular camp, with hut circles, on Hamilton Down, 173S feet; Cut Hill, commanding a view of the sources of the Taw, Teign, Tavy, Ockment and Dart; British Bridges, on the Wallabrook, near Scorhill Circle, and on the North Teign, near Sittaford Tor; Hessary (Hesus, God of War) Tor, 1730 feet, Mis Tor (Misor, the moon), Bel Tor (Belus, the sun), and Ham Tor (Ham, a Celtic divinity), evidently are Celtic names. Wistmah’s Wood, 1 mile from Two Bridges, a coppice of stunted trees, covering a many-fissured rock, and undoubtedly of great antiquity. “ Their whole appear¬ ance conveys to you the idea of hoary age in the vegetable world of creation; and on visiting Wistman’s Wood it is impossible to do other than think of those * groves in stony places,’ so often mentioned in Scripture as being dedicated to Baal and Ashtaroth. This ancient seat of idolatry (for such it is considered by antiquaries) seems to have undergone also a great part of the curse that was pronounced on the idolatrous cities and groves of old ; for here, indeed, do ‘ serpents hiss,' and it shall never be inhabited, 4 neither doth the shepherd make his fold there,’ ‘ but the wild beasts of the desert, and the owl dwell there,’ and the bittern still screams amidst its desolation”— (Mrs. Bray). Wistman's Wood is a corruption of the “ Wood of the Wise Men,” or Druids. Dumabridge Pound ; Bairdoun, or Hill of Bards ; and the British Bridge on the Blackabroak, near Prince’s Town, should also be examined. Black Tor. At its base are remains of a British village, some Hut Circles, a Pound, 360 yards in circumference, and two stone avenues. Cock's Tor, 1472 feet, west of Merrivale Bridge. • Vixen Tor, 1 mile south of the bridge, curiously resembles a female fox. ff-n* The tourist should consult Mrs. Bray’s “ Borders of the Tamar aud Tavy,” the notes to Carrington’s “Dartmoor,” and the Rev. Mr. Rowe's excellent “Peram¬ bulations of Dartmoor." Dartmoor Forest, 135,000 acres in superficial extent—22 miles north to south, and 19 miles east to west—occupying a table-land which, on an average, rises 1600 feet above the sea, was afforested by King John, granted by Henry III. to Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and annexed by Edward III. to the Duchy of Cornwall. It is en¬ tirely composed of granite, and covered with a thin layer of peat, or barren loam. The immense morass in its centre gives birth to a vast number of streams, which, after heavy rains, swell into rapid and furious torrents. At various points mines have been opened, of tin, lead, copper, and manganese. The air is fresh and whole¬ some notwithstanding the constant rains which sweep up from the channel, and which every wind seems to have a share in producing :— “ The west wind always brings wet weather, The east wind wet and cold together; The south wind surely brings us rain, The north wind blows it back again.” For the angler, the streams yield trout; for the botanist, every crag abounds fa mpton Hitt e-sleigh Bristol 1Tootdn. J Bovfrrlantl DrrvtatcbtgloTi ft erg Rji'fc * ^ hil^on rr^iTB ate Tor f jDbngerlpr ^ y C >L*1X>rJfaeJc Longstime ( > • FeJ’r&rorthlf v y Si(Liaft>i'd ' v-Tur ‘ '■ . • 1 , lidfort '/&*■ BjueSrty v _ _ £ tf/cf r h-^/wilerv^o+ThyJ East Dp %>sc2tridgt ~—- 1 I Hry Tor tdicm »•/«•£ Syl'ixh/rrn Down Lajjilck Bcadstme < f ! 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[FROM PLYMOUTH TO TH so 1 B<§ . ° p M 3 g. uOcS 0,0 Ssg. Pp “ ” 1/1 Hjo £*b§ w - P'S. H c!! DO © § £ e-li* S g 3.“ “-® s te ap » rs &2 3 P O [> S OB 2 3 2-8 O' ® ® p. D ~ • CO c s> ® a -Jo O#»? u t>o ST P. ® no O r h te coco 01 0.5 = g m2 hus = 2 csg3 jt E. o 5 h S.'S; 3 ■» © w o^ 1 (to 2 S*2 ©00°^“ £ 9 S' h ^ p p 2 & 2 2 p* H*. „ g w H W ►!' W » M ffi w P M £ I ® h 2ES* , V3 p w 05 “ ^ 1 - . 3 H 3 f *$? ® © ►5 ® oB H 3 “ s oi.” _ - (L^S S ^ OB P* •->>_. c-. 0 O gg.SBli Eg *hz £ *&*§£!?El ss g g-^wg Mg b £ < ® i? g. ■» n S B a fo o ^ ^ - ~ LiM £;o1o gs Mu' p ?s 3.a^s h® - R 2 g. CD os a » ‘ W * 5' p - £0Q 3 * g 3 £ S' & 2 ■c;S- O ® ~ ~ O *♦ ^ v- ® © S’*g a* fg o a ® - Cf -i 3 p © ^GO 2.S O M O o O ^ o © 0 o g £ JA Cascade with. Rockery, whose delicious | “I g** - play on a profusion of Luxuriant Ferns, ® js p. beautifies and refreshes the Hall. ? Spacious Billiard Room for Residents in the H tt » o D In which a magnificent Grotto, with waterfalls , cools arid ;purifies the air. ABERDEEN. THE PALACE HOTEL, UNION STREET, AND BRIDGE STREET, ABERDEEN. i ■'HIS Hotel, which has been recently erected and furnished with all modem iniprove- |t- ments, is one of the finest in the City. A. M. MACKIE, Late of the "Northern Hotel.’ DEESIDE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, ABERDEEN-ABEEFOYLE. HEATHCOT, near ABERDEEN. J HHE Climate of Deeside is the healthiest in Scotland. Residents at this I. Establishment have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fishing in the f iver Dee, which runs through the Estate of Heathcot. The Turkish and other Baths are constructed with all the latest improvements necessary for the practice of Hydropathy, i For Particulars, apply to Dr. Stewart, Medical Superintendent, 1 i eathcot, near Aberdeen. ABEEFOYLE. 3AILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL. Wourists and Visitors will find first-class accommodation at the above. | y writing the day before, parties can secure Boats for fishing on I fell Ard or Loch Chon, and Conveyances to meet them at Bticklyvie I .ation, on the Forth and Clyde Railway. JAMES BLAIR, Proprietor. M 4 ABERFELDY—BELFAST. ABERFELDY. BREADALBANE ARMS HOTEL, (i One minute's walk from the Railway Station) Containing First-class accommodation, is beautifully situated on tli river Tay, in the County of Perth, close to the splendid Falls of Hones (Bilks of Aberfeldy), Taymouth Castle, and the unrivalled scenery of Gle Lyon. Parties leaving Edinburgh and Glasgow in the morning, and arriving i Aberfeldy by the first train, can enjoy a five hours’ drive through the fines scenery in the Highlands (including Pass of Glen Lyon, Taymouth Cast! and grounds from the “ Fort ”), and return south by the last train. Orders Jor Horses and Conveyances punctually attended to. The Hotel ’Bus awaits the arrival of all the Trains. BELFAST. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL FIRST CLASS. BEST SITUATION. Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. "W. J. JURY, Proprietor. 1 BELFAST. ROBINSON'S COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEI 82 DONEGALL STREET. ESTABLISHED 1851. A FIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hotel. Conducted c I JA- strictly Abstinence Principles. Comfort, Quiet, and modera i Charges. Private Sitting Rooms and Show Rooms. BEN RHYDDING HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, AND SANATORIUM. For Prospectus, with Terms and other Information, address THE MANAGER, BEN RHYDDING, Near LEEDS. BEDDGELERT-BEN RHYDDING. HE ROYAL & GOAT HOTEL. PHIS Establishment is beautifully situated in the midst of some of the finest ^ scenery in Wales, and is within a mile and a half of the Aberglaslyn ass ; has undergone a most complete repair ; is newly and handsomely ifumished ; and the intention is that a reputation for attention, comfort, and loderate charges shall be permanently earned. Coaches will run during the iason between Portmadoc, the Hotel, and Llanberis, Carnarvon, Capel Curig, ad Bettws-y-Coed. It has an excellent Coffee Room, Billiard Room, Smoke Room, &c. Fishing on the lakes Gwynant, Dinas, and Cader. Mr. RICHARD HUMPHREY, Proprietor. G BETTWS-Y-COED-BIDEFORD. THE GWYDYE HOTEL, BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. fJ'HIS Hotel, which is near the Railway Station, offers every comfort and attention to Families and Tourists. Tickets for fishing may he liacl at the har. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. E. FAICHjSTEY, Proprietor. BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. WATERLOO HOTEL. OMIIS well-known Hotel and Fishing Station is situated near the Waterloo Bridge, * and a few hundred yards from the Railway Station. A well-appointed Omnibus attends all Trains, and is free of charge to and from the Hotel. A handsome Billiard and Smoking Boom. Fishing Tickets for all the Neighbouring Rivers can be obtained at the Bar. Posting in all its Branches. L. B. M'CULLOCH, Proprietor. BiDEFORD, DEVONSHIRE. TANTON’S FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. I This Hotel is pleasantly situated, facing the river Torridge, noted for its Salmon, Trout, and other fishing. An Omnibus meets every train ; private Omnibuses and Carriages can be had at the shortest notice. BILLIARDS. N.B. —The Mail-Coach starts from this Hotel daily at 7.15 a.m., taking passengers, parcels, etc., for Clovelly, Ilartland, and its neighbourhood. CHAS. E. CLEMOW, Proprietor. and at Anderson’s Hotel, Fleet Street, London. BIRNAM-BLAIR ATI30LE. 7 THE BIRNAM HOTEL, BIRNAM, N.B. J. B. POPLE, Proprietor. NEAR TO THE OUNKELD STATION OF THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. SALMON AND TROUT FISHING. CUISINE AND WINES Of the most rechercM description. BLAIR ATHOLE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. Adjoining the Railway Station. No Omnibus necessary. fFHE recently completed additions render this Hotel one of the largest and | ■*- best-appointed in the Highlands. Very elegantly furnished Drawing-Room for Ladies, and considerably enlarged Sitting-room, Bedroom, Smoking, and Bath-room accommodation. Table d’Hote daily during the season in the magnificent Dining Saloon. Board by the week at a reduced rate except during August. Blair Athole is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecrankie, the Queen’s View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar; the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the grounds of Blair Castle, &c. ; and it is the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. The Posting Department is thoroughly well equipped. Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mountain excursions. D. & P. T. MACDONALD, Proprietors. isrs. ' 8 BLAIR-ATHOLE-BLAIRGOWRIE. BLAIR-ATHOLE. BRIDGE OF TILT HOTEL Within Five Minutes' Wallc from the Railway Station. ALEXANDER STEWART, Proprietor. HPHIS HOTEL, under new Management, is beautifully situated opposite the entrance of famous Glen Tilt, Blair Castle Grounds, and within walking distance of the Palls of Fender, The Salmon Leap, and other objects of interest. Visitors and Tourists honouring this Hotel will find every atten¬ tion paid to their comfort and convenience, combined with Moderate Charges. POSTING IN ALL ITS DEPARTMENTS. The Drives include Glen Tilt, the Pass of Killieciankie, Queen’s View, Loch Tummel, Falls of Tummel, Fails of Bruar, &c. &c. Letters and Telegrams for Apartments or Conveyances punctually attended to. An Omnibus to and from the Station free of Charge. Parties boarded by the week at a reduced rate except during August. Guides and Ponies for Glentilt, Braemar, and other Excursions. ROYAL HOTEL. BLAIRGOWRIE. T FAMILIES, Tourists, anti Commercial Gentlemen will find every endeavour being made to render this Hotel equal to its long-known reputation. Salmon Fishing on the Tay by the Day; or longer. Families Boarded Weekly bv Agreement. Spacious Billiard Room, with a Cox and Yeoman Champion Table. A 1 Stud of Horses and Vehicles. Coach to and from Braemar daily in July; Seats secured by post or telegram. 'Bus meets all trains. SHOOTINGS INSPECTED AND VALUED. JOHN ANDERSON, Proprietor. BLAIRGOWRIE. QUEEN S HOTEL. Established W pjajf a Century. r PHE above long-established and first-class Hotel has recently been much enlarged 1 and improved, so that Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in it every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to Braemar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing CraighaU (Col. Clerk- Rattray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses and Carr iages of every description, with careful Drivers. Charges strictly Moderate. Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. An Omnibus waits all Trains. D. M'DONALD, Proprietor. Orders by Post or Telegram for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach seats, carefully attended to. BRAEMAR. 9 BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL. TI/TR. M‘NAB begs respectfully to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, that the extensive additions to the Hotel are now completed. The Hotel, as now constructed, comprises over 100 Bedrooms, a Dining Saloon (one of the largest and most elegant in Scotland), elegant Private Sitting- Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Billiard-Room, and Bath- Rooms. Charges strictly moderate. Letters or Telegrams will receive the most careful attention. Posting in all its varied departments. Coaches during the Season to Ballater and Blairgowrie Stations. Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. Note.— Gentlemen staying at the Hotel can have excellent Salmon or Trout Fishing free of all charge. THE FIFE ARMS HOTEL 10 BRAEMAR-BRAY-BRIDGE OP ALLAN. BRAEMAR THE INVERCAIJLD ARMS, The finest Hotel situation in Scotland. TX/TR. MACGREGOR begs to announce that the extensive additions to this Hotel are completed,—comprising magnificent Dining Saloon, exquisitely finished Ladies’ Drawing Room, Billiard Hall, Smoking Room, and numerous suites of Bed Rooms,all furnished in the most modern style. These additions are entirely after plans by J. T. Wimperis, Esq., Sackville Street, London, and comprise all that is elegant and comfortable in style I and handsome furnishings. Beautiful Croquet and Pleasure Grounds. Posting in all its branches. Guides and Ponies to the different hills. Gentlemen staying at the Hotel can make arrangements to fish for Salmon and Trout on upper reaches of the Ijivercauld Dee waters, which are con¬ sidered the most productive for Salmon in Scotland. Coaches during the I season to Blairgowrie, Dunkeld, and Ballater. Letters and Telegrams I punctually attended to. INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, Bray, County Wicklow. T HE Proprietor, having made considerable alterations in various depart¬ ments of this FIRST-CLASS HOTEL calculated to promote the Comfort and convenience of Visitors, solicits a continuation of patronage during the coming season. Tariff moderate. A few Boarders accommodated. Terms on application to the Manager, C. DUFRESNE, Proprietor. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. THE ROYAL HOTEL. T HIS well-known First-Class Hotel has extensive and superior accommodation for Tourists and Families, with a large Drawing Room and Dining Room for Ladies and Gentlemen, and beautifully laid out Pleasure Grounds. Charges strictly moderate. It is situated in the centre of this famous Spa, and is within easy access to Callander, the Trossachs, Loch Lomond, and most of the finest scenery in Scotland. Posting establishment complete. A 'Bus belonging to the Hotel awaits all the Trains. ROBERT PHILP, Proprietor. BRIDGE OP ALLAN. 11 BRIDGE OF ALLAN. QUEEN’S HOTEL. This Hotel affords excellent accommodation for Tourists and Visitors. The Hotel 'bus meets all Trains. A. ANDERSON, Proprietor. THE BRIDGE OF ALLAN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. OCHIL PARK, STIRLINGSHIRE, Medical Adviser—Dr. Hunter, QOMBINES Salubrity of Climate, Dry Soil, and Exquisite Scenery. The House is well appointed, and provides a good Table with cheerful society. Terms, including all charges, £2 :12 :6 per week. Applications regarding accommodation, &c., to be addressed to Mr. M‘Kay, House Superintendent. 12 BRIGHTON-BRISTOL-CALLANDER. BRIGHTON GRAND HOTEL, Facing the Sea, Esplanade, and Pier. S EA Baths and Swimming Bath attached to Hotel. Table d’Hote at 6-45 p.m. Large and small rooms, all well furnished. Prices mode¬ rate. The ventilation and appointments admirable. D. COLLEDGE, Manager. BRIGHTON GRAND AQUARIUM. rpHE largest and most complete Marine and Fresh Water Aquarium in the world. 4- The Collection of Fishes and other aquatic Animals iu this magnificent Establish¬ ment is unequalled for variety and the number and size of the specimens exhibited. Sea Lions, and baby Sea Lion, bom in the Aquarium, May 1877, Porpoises, Royal Sturgeons, baby Sturgeons, Telescope Fish, Sea Horses, Herring, Mackerel, Sterlet, Mud Fish (Gambia), Electric Eels (Amazon), Groups of Alligators and Crocodiles, Sea Birds (Northern Divers), and thousands of other rare Specimens, many of which are not to be seen in any other Aquarium. The Aquarium Band at intervals daily, and every evening at 7.30. Vocal and Instru¬ mental Concerts, Wednesday and Saturday afternoons at 3. Admission i—Daily, Is. Schools Half-Price. Evening 6d. Periodical Tickets.—One Month, 7s. 6d.; Three Months, 10s. 6d. G. REEVES SMITH, General Manager. BRISTOL. ROYAL HOTE L, COL LEGE GREEN. F IRST-CLASS, Central, and pleasantly situated. Very spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-Rooms. Steam Lift and Laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Postal Telegraph Office and Post Office in the Hotel. Fixed Charges. The Hotel Omnibus meets all principal Trains. Night Porter kept. F. SWANSON, Manager. CALLANDER. THE M'GREGOR HOTEL, ALEXANDER THOM, Proprietor. T OURISTS and Families visiting the above long-established and first- class Hotel will have every comfort and attention, and the charges will be found strictly moderate. Posting in all its branches. ’Bus awaits all the Trains. Letters and Telegrams for Rooms or Conveyances promptly attended to. N.B . — This Hotel has recently been furnished in the most modern and comfortable style. BUXTON. 13 BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. T HIS First-Class HOTEL for FAMILIES and GENTLEMEN forms the South Win" of the Crescent. . O It is only One Minute from Eailway Stations, and is connected by Covered Colonnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinicing Wells, and the New Pavilion and Gardens, where a splendid Band performs Four Hours daily. - THE ASSEMBLY ROOM in this Hotel, which has long been celebrated for its elegant proportions, has recently been re-decorated in the first style, and is now converted into the DINING-ROOM OF THE HOTEL. Public, Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES. TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 P.M. first-class stabling and lock-up coach-houses. JOHN SMILTEK, Proprietor. 14 CARLISLE-CARNARVON-CHATSWORTH. CARLISLE. THE COUNTY HOTEL, W HICH affords every accommodation for Families and Gentle¬ men, is Fireproof, and connected with the Platform of the Central Railway Station by a covered way. Porters in attendance on arrival of Trains. A Ladies’ Coffee-Room. L-T—- — Jfes IS E ifj 0= CARNARVON, NORTH WALES. THE ROYAL HOTEL (LATE UXBRIDGE ARMS), FIRST-CLASS FAMILY & COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT Beautifully situated on the Banks of the Menai Straits, and in close proximity to the Railway Station. EDWARD HUMPHREYS. An Omnibus will regularly attend the arrival of each Train at the Railway Station. Billiards in detached premises. On and after June 19th, a Coach round Snowdon, after the arrival of the 9.25 a.m. train, via Beddgelert, Vale of Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel for dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Rhyl, &c. CHATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR, DERBYSHIRE. This Hotel is beautifully situated in Chatswortli Park, and within ten minutes' walk of the princely residence oi' the Dnke of Devonshire. The hotel is the largest iD the neighbourhood, and its proximity to the Rowsley Station, on the Midland Railway, affords every facility to Tourists desirous of visiting the. beauties of Haddon Hall, Matlock, the Mines at Castleton, Dove Dale, etc. Omnibuses from the hotel meet all the principal trains at Rowsley Station. A spacious Coffee-Room for Ladies. Private Sitting and well-appointed Bed-Rooms. Post-horses, etc. HENRY HARRISON. Proprietor : in connection with ST. ANN'S HOTEL, BUXtON. Railway Station. Rowsley. ' Postal address , Bakewell. Day Tickets for the ChatsWorth Fishery. CHELTENHAM-CLIFTON-CORK. 15 CHELTENHAM. BELLE VUE HOTEL. FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. This Hotel is delightfully situated in the healthiest part of the town. TERMS MODER A TE. G. ROLPH, Proprietor. CLIFTON-DOWN HOTEL, CLIFTON. Facing the Suspension Bridge. rpHE popularity of this Hotel has compelled the proprietors to extend the accommo- dation by the addition of several Bedrooms, Ladies' Drawing Rooms, a Suite of Apartments for Wedding Breakfasts, Ball Suppers, &c. &c. Visitors will tind all the .'comforts of home, with- lixed and moderate charges. The situation of the Hotel is unrivalled, being on the Downs, and within ten minutes’ walk of the new Clifton-Down Railway Station. N.B .—From this Hotel the following Trips are easy, returning to the Hotel the same day:—Chepstow Castle, the Wynd Cliff, Tintern Abbey, Wells Cathedral, Glastonbury Tor, Bath, Weston-super-Mare, Clevedon, Portishead, Cardiff, Newport, and Channel Docks. D. GITTINS, Manager. Clifton Hotel Company (Limited). CORK. STEPHENS’ COMMERCIAL HOTEL (Opposite the General Post Office, Cork), POSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Commer¬ cial Gentlemen, and Families. It is very centrally situated, being opposite the General Post Office—close to the Bank, Theatre, &c. &c. Charges extremely Moderate. WILLIAM D. STEPHENS, Proprietor, From the 1 Vest of England. Extiiact from a “ Tour through Ireland,” published in the North Briton , 1864 i— “ When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens’ Com¬ mercial Hotel, where we obtaiued excellent accommodation. “ What this Hotel lacks in external show is amply compensated by mremitting attention on the part of the Proprietors and their attendants to he comfort of their Guests. ” 16 CORK. IMPERIAL HOTEL. CORK. P. CURRY, Proprietor. long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most approved and modern system. It possesses every requisite to promote the Comfort and Convenience of Tourists. The Hotel contains OYER ONE HUNDRED BEDROOMS, Three Coffee Rooms, Commercial Room, a Drawing Room for Ladies and Families, Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, &c. TABLE D’HOTE DAILY AT HALF-PAST SIX O’CLOCK. The Hotel adjoins the General Post Office ; as also the Commercial Building, where Merchants meet on “ Change,” and the earliest Telegraphic News is received, to the Reading Room of which Visitors to the Hotel have free access. It has been patronised within the last few years by their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales, Duke of Connaught, Prince Alfred, Prince Napoleon, the Due D’Orleans, the Comte de Paris, and the Count de Flandres, the successive Lords Lieutenant of Ireland—Clarendon, Eglinton, Carlisle, and Abercom — as well as by the Nobility, and most of the leading Gentry visiting Cork. The Charges will be found most Moderate. The Imperial Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of each Train. Extract from Sir CUSACK RONEY’S “Month in Ireland:” “Judge Haliburton (Sam Slick) says, ‘There are two things to be recom¬ mended to the notice of visitors to Ireland :—If you are an admirer of beautiful scenery, go to the Cove of Cork ; if you want a good hotel, go to the Imperial.’ The Hotel in question is situated in Pembroke Street, having an entrance also in the South Mall, through the Commercial Buildings, the splendid News Room of which is open to visitors to the Hotel. For conveni¬ ence and comfort there is not a hotel superior to it in the Empire.” COLWYN BAY—CRIEFF-DOVER. 17 COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. POLLYCROCHON HOTEL, (Late the Residence of Lady Erskine). rpHIS First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, com- manding splendid land and sea views; there are miles of delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within a few minutes’ walk of the Beach and ten minutes’ of Colwyn Bay Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting. J. PORTER, Proprietor. C R i EF F. THE DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL. The only First-Class Hotel in Crieff. Families boarded by Week or Month. Large Posting Establishment. Prompt Attention given to all Communications. The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train. D. MACKENZIE, Proprietor. DOVER. PAimY artm REJOINING the Harbour Station of the London, Chatham, I and Dover Railway. One of the best-appointed Houses on the Coast for Families and Tourists. Good attention and reasonable Charges. THOS. WIGKENS FRY, Proprietor. B 18 DUBLIN. DUBLIN. JURY’S HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. Established 40 Years. Greatly Enlarged and Improved. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, the Castle, Theatres, &e. TABLE D’HOTE AT THREE AND HALF-PAST SEX. Charges Moderate. A Drawing Room for Ladies. two night porters in attendance. HENRY J. JURY, Proprietor. DUBLIN. SHELBOURNE HOTEL. OITUATED in most central and fashionable part of Dublin. ^ Contains magnificent Public Rooms, Elevator, Telegraph Office, &c. &c. First-Class. Charges Moderate. JURY & COTTON, Proprietors. DUBLIN. THE “ABBEY” HOTEL, Commercial and Family Hotel (Scotch House), 102 & 103 MIDDLE ABBEY STREET (off SACKVILLE STREET), Mrs. ARTHUR, Projrrietress, ( 10M BINES the Comfort of a Home with Moderate Charges. Is centrally situated, J being within two minutes’ walk of the General Post Office, and near the Bank, College, Steamboats, -and Railway Stations. Show Rooms for Commercial Gentlemen. DUBLIN. SALT HILL HOTEL, MONKSTOWN, CO. DUBLIN. JfIRST-Class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen. Pleasantly situated in its own grounds (twenty minutes by rail from Dublin). Elegantly furnished suites of apart¬ ments, spacious Coffee, Reception, and Drawing Rooms, facing the sea. An excellent Billiard Room, provided with a champion Billiard Table; Lawn Tennis and Croquet Grounds. Table d’Hote during the season. Carriages in every variety. The whole under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, William Parry. N.B .—Special arrangements for families sojourning. DUNOON. 19 THE BRIGHTON OF SCOTLAND. DUNOON. ARGYLL HOTEL. ALEXANDER GUNN, Lessee. fJHIS HOTEL, which has lately been enlarged and refur¬ nished, will be found second to none in Scotland, and which, for comfort and cleanliness, cannot be surpassed. Charges strictly moderate. Arrangements made by the Week or Month. Table d'llotc daily. Dinners a la Carte. The “ Argyll ” is the principal Hotel in Dunoon, and is situated within one minute’s walk of the Pier, commanding a magnificent view of the Firth of Clyde. Visitors staying at the Hotel will be supplied with Guide-Books for the following Excursions, viz.— Kyles of Bute, per “ Iona” or “ Columba Inverary and Lochfyne, per “Lord of the Isles •” Arran, Ayr, Lochlomond, Loch Katrine, Trossachs, Lochlong, Lochgoil, and Gareloch, all returning the same day. Coaches leave the Hotel daily for Loch Eck. 20 DUNOON-EDINBURGH. ROYAL HOTEL, DUNOON. Situated within two minutes' walk of the Pier. IT 1 IIIS central and old-established Hotel remodelled, and large addition of Bed Rooms, with Ladies’ Room, Coffee Room, Bath Room, and Lava¬ tory, so that Visitors may rely on good accommodation at Moderate Charges. Special Terms by Week or Month. J. KILPATRICK, Proprietor. CROWN m HOTEL, DUNOON (Situated close to the Pier). OSCAR TROEGER, Lessee, Begs to intimate to Tourists and Travelling Public that the Crown Hotel has lately been enlarged and refurnished, and affords now superior accommodation and comforts, combined with Moderate Charges. The Hotel commands a splendid view of the Firth of Clyde. German and French spoken. Table d’Hote daily. TEMPERANCE HOTEL, DUNOON. TTENRY HAYES 0 a te of Glasgow) begs to inform his Friends and the Public that he has now OPENED that Commodious HOUSE, formerly known as Hamilton Villa, East Bay, Dunoon, as a FIRST-CLASS TEMPERANCE HOTEL, with every accommo¬ dation for Private’Families. CHARGES MODERATE. The House is beautifully situated, and commands an extensive view of the sea. THE ROYAL ALEXANDRA HOTEL 11, 12, & 13 SHANDWICK PLACE, EDINBURGH. West End of Princes Street, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the Caledonian and Haymarket Stations. T HIS First-class Family Hotel was opened on the 1st of June 1874 by MISS BROWN, formerly of the Windsor Hotel, Moray Place, and the Clarendon Hotel, Princes Street. The Royal Alexandra Hotel lias been entirely rebuilt, and fitted up with every modern improvement re¬ quired for the convenience and comfort of visitors, and Miss Brown hopes to merit a continuance of the favours she has already received. Coffee-room and public drawing-room. • < EDINBURGH. 21 Opposite the Scott Monument and Gardens. THE ROYAL HOTEL, (iHac^rcgor, late GIBB’S) 53 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. The Royal Hotel is within a hundred yards of Railway , Terminus, a/nd occupies the finest position in the City. In answer to the inquiries of Iris numerous patrons, Mr. MacGregor has the pleasure to announce that the grand entrance, with all the public rooms connected therewith, is now open and ready for their reception. PLACES OF INTEREST SEEN FROM HOTELArthur’s Seat, over 800 feet X high. Assembly Hall. Calton Hill. Edinburgh Castle. East and West Princes Street Gardens. Free Church College and Assembly Hall. Royal Observatory. Sir Walter Scott’s Monument. Salisbury Crags. St. Giles’s Cathedral. Parliament House. The Royal Institution. The Royal Scottish Academy and National Gallery. The Antiquarian Museum. From tower of Hotel are seen the Firth of Forth, Bass Rock, tlie Lomond, Corstorphine, and Pentland Hills, and a part of four or five of the neighbouring counties. Charges Moderate. An Elevator. Night Porters. CAUTION.— Visitors intending to put up at the Royal must be careful to see that they are taken there, as mistakes have occurred, causing great disappointment. 22 EDINBURGH. 146 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. (Immediately opposite the Caledonian, and within Three Minutes' Drive from the Waverley and HaymarTcet Railway Stations.) FIRST CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. QITUATION and Views unrivalled. Magnificent Drawing Room for Ladies. Lofty, ° Elegant Coffee-Room. Handsome Sitting Rooms. Large Spacious Smoking Room, and every modern convenience. Table d’Hote daily at 6.30 p.m. Comfort of Visitors studied. Charges Moderate. The Hotel has been again all re-decorated, and several additional Bed Rooms'acquired on the Drawing Room floor. . Wines supplied to the Hotel at exceptionally moderate prices by the following Wine MerchantsMessrs Bell, Rannie & Co., Leith; Messrs Cockbum & Campbell, Edin¬ burgh ; and Messrs. Gibb, Bruce & Co., Glasgow. JOHN WILSON, Manager. % EDINBURGH, 23 EDINBURGH. PHILP’S COCKBURN HOTEL, Immediately adjoining the Terminus of the Great Northern Trains. T HIS commodious and well-appointed Hotel is beautifully situated, over¬ looking Princes Street Gardens, and commanding some of tlie finest views in the city. A large and elegantly-furnished Saloon — admitted to he the finest in Scotland—set apart for Ladies, Gentlemen, or Families, wishing to avoid the expense of Sitting-Rooms. The views from the immense windows of this Saloon are, without ex¬ ception, the finest in Edinburgh. Private Suites of Apartments, Rath-Rooms, Coffee and Smoking Rooms, and every accommodation for Gentlemen. PIANOS IN ALL THE PARLOURS AND SALOONS. Charges, including Attendance, strictly Moderate. r.S. — Mr. Cook (of London! makes this Hotel his headquarters when in Scotian where every information may be obtained of his Tourist arrangements FIRST-CLASS TURKISH BATHS; and in connection with the COCKBURN HOTEL, GLASGOW. 24 EDINBURGH, THE BALMORAL HOTEL, PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. J. GRIEVE, Proprietor. Commands the Finest Views of the “ MODERN ATHENS. EDINBURGH 25 WATERLOO HOTEL, WATERLOO PLACE, PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. JOHN GRIEVE, Proprietor. M R. GRIEVE having Purchased and Refurnished in an elegant style this Old-Established and First-class Hotel, begs to announce to Families and Commercial Gentlemen that it is now OPEN for Business. Rest assured nothing will be left undone to secure convenience and comfort to Customers in all departments. THE ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL, 22 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. Public Drawing-Room. Suites of Apartments for Families and Gentlemen. Tabic d'lIOte in the Grand Saloon. Public and Private Billiard-Rooms. J. GRIEVE, Proprietor. 26 EDINBURGH. THE OLD WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 43 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. R OBERT CRAUSTON, in returning thanks to his numerous Friends and tin Public, begs to inform them that the above Hotel has been re-constructed, fitted and furnished with all the most modern improvements which the present times cai supply, and that, notwithstanding the great rise in the value of property in Prince' Street, and the high prices of labour and material in the erection of his New Hotel, thi charges for Bed-Rooms remain the same as they were 33 years ago. Hoping for i continuance of their kind patronage, R. C. will make it his constant endeavour ti attend to the comfort, convenience, and interest of his Friends. TO STRANGERS unacquainted with Edinburgh, R C. begs to intimate tha the situation of tl»e Dun Wayerley is within one minute from the Great Central Raihvaj Station, and commands the Grandest Views in the City ; while the street itself is sai( to be the finest iu the world. Immediately opposite the Hotel, and forming the soutl side of Princes-Street, is the Garden Terrace, a public promenade, upon which stanr the unequalled " Scott ” and other noble monuments, while the gardens below form tin valley betwixt the Old and New Towns. To the west, the grand old Castle, towerinf over the city; to the south, the romantic Old Town, with St. Giles’ Cathedral an* other prominent structures: and to the east, Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Palace, arc Calton Hill, the view from the latter of which is said to surpass even that of the Baj of Naples. Uniform Charges are made at the following Hotels, belonging to the same Pro prietor:— EDINBURGH EDINBURGH GLASGOW . LONDON OLD WAVERLEY, 43 PRINCES STREET. NEW WAVERLEY, IS WATERLOO PLACE. 1S5 BUCHANAN STREET. 37 KING STREET, CHEAPSIDE. Breakfast or Tea . . Is. 3d., Is. 6d., Is. 9d. Public Dinner.2s. Bed-Room.Is. 6d. Private Parlours.3s. Service.Is. Recommended by Bradshaw’s Tourists’ Guide as “the cheapest and best Temper ance Hotel they had ever seen,” and by J. B. Gough as “the only Home he had founc since leaving his own in America.” EDINBURGH. 27 THE WINDSOR HOTEL, (Late Dejay’s) 100 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. TUIIS First-class Family Hotel, having recently been considerably I improved, is situated in the most pleasant and central part of the Metropolis, opposite the Castle, and overlooking West Princes Street Gardens. Private suites of Apartments, handsome Coffee Room, Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Drawing Rooms, Smoking Room, and Bath Rooms. The Culinary Department is under the personal superintendence of the. Proprietor, whose thorough practical experience as Chef de i Cuisine of the Balmoral Hotel is well known, and will be a ■ sufficient guarantee for efficiency. Continental Languages Spolcen. Charges Strictly Moderate. French and German Newspapers kept. A. M. THIEM, Proprietor. THE CLARENDON HOTEL, 104 and 105 PF.INCES STREET, EDINBURGH, Directly opposite the Castle, and overlooking West Princes Street Gardens. rjdHIS First-Class Hotel, after having been entirely built, and Furnished in the most elegant manner, was opened May I 1876 for the reception of Visitors. The view from the large oriel windows of Public and Private Sitting Rooms is unsurpassed, the Bed Rooms large k and airy, and fitted up with every regard to comfort. Charges Strictly Moderate. JAMES M'GREGOR, Proprietor. 28 EDINBURGH. EDINBURGH. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 115, 116, & 117 PRINCES STREET, and 1 CASTLE STREET. Established 40 Years. (Exactly opposite the Castle.) E. B. Moore. Late J. Burnett. The. Largest Dining Establishment in Scotland. BED AND ATTENDANCE, 3s. W. ANDERSON. CAFE ROYAL HOTEL, WEST REGISTER STREET, EDINBURGH. EDINBURGH. 29 THE LONDON HOTEL, ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. Established upwards of Fifty Years. T HIS COMMODIOUS and COMFORTABLE hotel, entirely RE-MODELLED and RE-FURNISHED throughout, has been opened by HENRY WHITE, late Clubmaster to the UNIVERSITY CLUB, Princes Street, Edinburgh. From its Central Situation and the spacious character of its Accommo¬ dation, the London will be found, as hitherto, an Extremely Convenient Hotel ; while from Mr. White’s experience as Clubmaster and otherwise, he can confidently ensure to the Public an Exceptionally Superior Cuisine. The BILLIARD and SMOKING ROOMS have been fitted up in the most comfortable manner. THE PALACE HOTEL 109 AND 110 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL i Occupies the Best Position in Princes Street, immediately : opposite Edinburgh Castle, and commands Beautiful Views over the Gardens, with the Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat in the distance. I, Extensive Alterations have just been completed, not only adding to the accommodation, but supplying increased Residental Comforts. Tariff on application. | Charges Strictly Moderate. Special Arrangements made with Families or others during the Winter Months. J. MEPHIUS, Manager. , 30 EDINBURGH-EXETER. VEITCH’S FIRST-CLASS 11 PRIVATE HOTEL, 120 AND 122 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH. Charges strictly Moderate. Established over 30 Years. GUNN’S (LATE MOORES) PRIVATE FAMILY HOTEL (Established over Twenty Years). 2 FORRES STREET &, 1 ST. COLME STREET, WEST END OF QUEEN STREET, EDINBURGH. 'T'HIS First-Class Family Hotel occupies one of the best and quietest positions in Edin- * burgh, and only three minutes’ walk from the Caledonian Railway Station, Princes St | Bed-Rooms and Attendance from 2s. 6d. Sitting-Rooms from 3s. per day. Plain I Breakfasts and Teas from Is. Full Dinners from 2s. 6d. JOHN GUNN, Proprietor, TO WHOM ALL COMMUNICATIONS SHOULD BE ADDRESSED. DARLING’S REGENT HOTEL 1 20 WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH. Nearly opposite the General Post-Office. Situated in the Principal Street of the City, in the immediate vici- i nity of the Calton Hill and Public Buildings. Large comfortable l Coffee-Room for parties with Ladies, free of eharge. Also Private t Parlours. This is admitted to he one of the best Temperance Hotels in Scotland. | Charges strictly Moderate. EXETER. ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL CATHEDRAL YARD. This Old-Established and Fashionable Hotel has just undergone entire j I renovation, and is fitted with every convenience for the comfort of Ladies I and Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Baths. Ladies’ Coffee-Room. W. BIRKETT, Proprietor. EXETER-FORRES-FORT-WILLIAM. 31 EXETER. POPLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL, FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. This Hotel contains all the appointments found in First-Class Estab- ishments, adjoining Northernbay Park, and within three minutes’ walk if the Cathedral. Visitors will find the comfort and attention of home vith fixed moderate charges. A Ladies’ Coffee Room. Night Porter. )mnibuses to every Train. Posting in all its branches. CAMPBELL’S STATION ROYAL HOTEL FORRES, Adjoining the Railway Platform. (Patronised by the Royal Family and Leading Members of the Nobility and Aristocracy of Europe.) APARTMENTS EH SUITE. SPACIOUS BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOM JUST ADDED. Boots in attendance at all Trains. JAMES CAMPBELL, Proprietor ancl Lessee. FORT-WILLIAM. CALEDONIAN HOTEL. RODERICK M'DONALD, of long experience as Hotel-keeper in Scotland and X England, begs most respectfully to intimate that he has become Lessee of the bove first-class Hotel, which contains excellent accommodation for Families, Tourists, nd Travellers, combined with reasonable charges. Three minutes’ walk from the Pier, •here the daily 5.30 a.m. steamer to Glasgow calls half-a-mile from the foot of the far- inied Ben-Nevis. Guides, Ponies, &c., kept for ascending the mountain. An Omnibus from the Hotel to and from the Inverness steamers on the Caledonian anal at Banna vie twice a-day. The Royal Mail Coach to and from Kingussie daily, on the route to Glencoe and ochlomond. - Charges strictly Moderate. FORT-WILLIAM. CHEVALIER HOTEL. TEW First-Class Hotel. Nearest the Pier. Commanding excellent views. Acenm- ’’ modatiori comfortable. Coach leaves the Hotel daily to join the Steamer at Banavie ■r the North, by Caledonian Canal. Miss C. SMITH, late of the Caledonian Hotel, ban, while thanking her Patrons for past favours, having entered on a lease of this ■shionable Hotel, assures the Travelling Public of her continued attention to their nnfort. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Guides and Ponies to ascend Ben Nevis. 32 GALWAY-GLASGOW. GALWAY. MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. RAILWAY HOTEL. rpHIS magnificent building has recently passed into new hands, and has been hand somely refurnished and fitted with every requisite for the convenience and comfoil of Families. Anglers, Tourists, and the Travelling Public in General. It contains forty-fonr Bed Rooms, and separate Coftee Rooms for Ladies and Gentle men, and suites of Apartments for Families. A superior Billiard Room with first class Table. The Hotel is a convenient centre, whence may be visited on short excursions th< various points of interest around Galway. A delightful trip on Lough Corrib may be made to Cong, and by car through Connemara back to the Hotel. Another tour can lx taken by Steamer to Ballyvaughan for Lisdoonvama, the Grand Cliffs of Moher, am Kilkee, and back. This Steamer occasionally runs to the Isles of Arran. Tourists desiring to follow this plan should ask, at Broadstone, for Tourist Tickc No. VII. to Galway and back. Boats (sailing and row) always available. Good Fishing. The Wines, Brandies, <£c., are guaranteed to be of the choicest description, being im ported direct. EDWARD HOLEHAN, Proprietor. The Refreshment Rooms at Broadstone, Mullingar, and Athlone, are conducted b; the same Lessee. At Broadstone Breakfast can be served before the departure of tli morning Trains, for the convenience of Passengers arriving from England, &c. ; am Dinners between 3 and 7 o'clock p.m., so that Passengers for England, arriving ii Dublin by trains due at 4.40 and 5.5 p.m., will have time to dine. MACLEAN’S HOTEL, ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. TV/rR. MACLEAN begs to announce to his Patrons and the Public that his Nn ■I'L Hotel is now open for the reception of Visitors. Having been built speciall for a Hotel from the foundation, it combines all modern improvements and appliance for securing comfort and convenience. The situation is central, quiet, and healthy, and being on the level summit < Blythswood Hill, commands the most extensive views of Glasgow and surroundings. The House has been furnished In the most luxurious style. The following Official Report on the Hotel, submitted to the Dean of Guild Com of Glasgow, speaks for itself: — “ In terms of your Lordship’s remit, we have inspecte the New Hotel in St. Vincent Street, just completed by Mr. Maclean, and are satisfie that, in point of stability and construction, it is well suited for the purpose intendec Externally it is handsome, and internally the arrangement and appliances for the safety comfort, and convenience of Visitors are unsurpassed in the kingdom. — We are, &c. “Geo roe Bell, I.A. “ Glasgow, 3d November 1877. James Henderson." Notwithstanding the great expense of completing such an Establishment, M Maclean has resolved to maintain a moderate scale of charges. Arrangements can be made for Boarding Families during the Winter Mouths ! Reduced Rates. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. GLASGOW. 33 COCKBUM HOTEL, 141 BATH STREET, GLASGOW. pLEASANTLY situated, and within easy distance of all the Railway Stations and Steamboat Wharves. JAMES rilILP, Proprietor and Manager. MAN N’S RAINBOW HOTEL, 6 BRIDGE STREET, GLASGOW. OWIIS Hotel has undergone extensive Alterations and Improve- J ments, -and is now, in point of Comfort, all that could be desired. Its immediate proximity to the various Railway Termini, the arrival and departure Wharves of the American, Highland, and Coasting Steamers, renders it unquestionably convenient alike for Commercial Gentlemen, Families, and Tourists. Numerous Suites of Private Rooms. Large and Elegant Commercial Room. Superbly Furnished Coffee Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. SMOKING ROOM. BILLIARD ROOM. BATH ROOMS. Wines of Choicest Brands carefully selected. Man Spricht Deutsch. On Parle Franqime. CHARLES MANN, Proprietor. IONA BERTH DIRECTLY OPPOSITE. C 34 GLASGOW. ALEXANDRA HOTEL. 148 BATH STREET, GLASGOW. T01GT MACRAE begs to announce that he has entered on a lease of this ^ Establishment, and trusts, by personal superintendence, to make it one of the Most Comfortable Hotels in Glasgow. The House has been erected from the foundation for a First-class Hotel, and is most extensive and commodious. It is situated in the quietest and healthiest part of the City, and being constructed with all- modern improvements, is most complete. Suites of Apartments, spaeious Coffee-Room, Reception-Room, Writing- Room, Reading-Room, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Private Parlours, lofty and airy Bed-Rooms (elegantly furnished), Billiard-Rooms, Smoking-Rooms, etc. Baths of all descriptions. Within easy distance of all the Railway Termini and Steamboat Wharves, All Charges strictly Moderate. The JFin.es, ivhich have been selected with great tare, are of the highest character. JOHN MACRAE, Proprietor and Manager. REGENT HOTEL, 221 SATJCHIEHALL STREET, GLASGOW. First-Class for Families and Visitors. Bed and Attendance, 3s. and 3s. Gd. Parlours from 5s. per day. Spacious Coffee-Room, capable of dining over 150 persons. AN ELEGANT DRAWING-ROOM. JOHN KENNEDY, Proprietor. GLASGOW. BLAIR’S HOTEL, 80 BATH STREET, GLASGOW. TTHIS New First-Class TEMPERANCE HOTEL, situated Within Four Minutes’ walk of the Principal Railway Stations, is unsurpassed for Cleanliness, Quiet, and Comfort. Private Parlours and Stock Rooms. Breakfast, Dinner, Bed Room, Attendance, Is. Gd. Is. 9d. 2s. From Is. 9d. Is. 6d. Is. GLASGOW. 35 GLASGOW. ROYAL HANOVER HOTEL, j HANOVER STREET, GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. MERTON R. COTES, Proprietor. “The Editor of ‘BRADSHAW’ highly recommends this Hotel for its Superior Arrangements, Excellent Management, and Domestic Comforts.”-^Sept. 7,1871. “ First-Class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen, replete with the comforts of Home."—Murray’s Guide to Scotland, 1871. “Quiet Family Hotel, combining excellence in every department."— Black?s Guide to Scotland, 1871. NORTH BRITISH IMPERIAL HOTEL (AT THE NORTH BRITISH TERMINUS), GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. , FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. PETER MACDONALD, Proprietor. GLASGOW. HIS LORDSHIP’S LARDER AND HOTEL, 10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW. Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas ; Oyster, Fish, and Tripe Suppers. Good Rooms for Dinner and Supper Parties. Excellent Bedrooms. Coffee-Room. Good Lavatory and Smoking-Room. Charges Moderate. Opposite St. Enoch Station Booking Office. L E. SALMON, Proprietor. CITY COMMERCIAL DINING ROOMS, 54 & 60 UNION STREET, AND 35 MITCHELL STREET, GLASGOW. O NE of the most Extensive and Comfortable Dining Establishments in Scotland, capable of accommodating upwards of 2000 Visitors daily. Breakfasts, Dinners, and Teas, served with comfort, economy, and despatch. Bill of Fare, EXTRA MODERATE. ADIES’ PRIVATE DINING ROOM. GENTLEMEN’S LAVATORY. No Gratuities to Waiters. MATTHEW WADDELL, Proprietor. 36 GLASGOW-GLOUCESTER-GOLSPIE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL {Opposite the Entrance of the North British Bailway Station), DUNDAS STREET, GLASGOW. rpnE Proprietor begs respectfully to announce that, having found the “ATHOLE ARMS” much top small for his increasing business, he has made extensive Altera¬ tions and Additions. The Hotel has been thoroughly Re-decorated and Re-furnished, consisting of a spacious COFFEE ROOM for Ladies and Gentlemen ; COMMERCIAL ROOM; BILLIARD ROOM; SMOKING ROOM: several Elegantly Furnished PRI¬ VATE PARLOURS. Upwards of Thirty Extra BED ROOMS have been added. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Spray Baths. Bed Room, including attendance, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. The Wines and Spirits are of the Best Quality, having been specially selected., NIGHT PORTER. JAMES M'KENZIE, Proprietor. I P.S. —New Entrances, Nos. 13 and 21 Dundas Street. WASHINGTON TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 172 to 184 SAUCHIEHALL STREET, GLASGOW. \ First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel, within Three Minutes’ ^ drive of the Railways. Just added, Ladies' Drawing Boom, free of charge. Breakfast and Tea, Is. 6d. and 2s. Bed and Attendance, 2s. 9d. GLOUCESTER. THE BELL HOTEL. Situate in the centre of the City, near the Cathedral, and is the LEADING" HOTEL for FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. Excellent Stabling. Post Horses and Carriages. Omnibuses to and from every Train. Night Porter. Tariff on application to THOMAS ALLEN, Manager. GOLSPIE. ROYAL SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL I )EAUTIFL T LLY situated within a mile of Dunrobin Castle, the Grounds 4 of which are open to the Public. Free Trout Fishing on Loch Brora for parties staying at the Hotel. Five minutes’ walk from sea-shore. Horses and Carriages on Hire. An Omnibus meets Trains. Charges moderate. JAMES MITCHELL, Proprietor. GLENGARRIFF. 37 ' WINTER HEALTH RESORT, GLENGARRIFF, TS strongly recommended by Eminent Physicians for its equable, mild but not relaxing, climate. Tlie excursions by land and water are numerous—amongst others, the celebrated drive to the LAKES OF KILLARNEY, thus described by Lord John Manners:—“The twenty miles from Kenmare to Glengarriffform the grandest road, barring the Alpine passes, that I know.” The celebrated Thackeray writes :—“What sends picturesque tourists to the Rhine and Saxon Switzerland? Within live miles of the pretty Inn of Glengarriff there is a country of the magnificence of which no pen can give an idea. The journey from Glengarriff to Kenmare is one of astonishing beauty ; and I have seen Killarney since, and am sure that Glengarriff loses nothing by the com parison with this most famous of lakes.” From “ Happy Thought Notes,” Punch :— “Glengarriff.—Eccles Hotel. Charmingly situated. Facing the bay, and on the road. Old-fashioned, covered with creepers and roses, and bed-rooms commanding the bay. Eccles Hotel, Glengarriff, is worth far more than a passing visit. I am delighted with it. It is, as far as attendance and cuisine, and general comfort, the best hotel I have been in. The coffee-room seems to have been fitted, up to the very latest fashion of taste ; the climate is so mild, that even at nine o’clock on an early spring evening you can sit -out in front of the hotel, and enjoy your coffee and cigar. And here also I will intro¬ duce a useful piece of advice for the tourist who may be passing the same route as myself. Only hire your car from Killarney to Glengarriff. You can get another at your own convenience, and just as good, at Glengarriff, to take you on." “Murray’s Handbook for Ireland” describes this hostelry as one of the best of the South of Ireland Hotels. Over Fifteen Thousand Pounds have recently been expended on THE ECCLES HOTEL and its extensive pleasnre-grounds, through which are five miles of beautiful walks. The Hotel is replete with indoor comforts, library, picture gallery, etc. The telegraph office and pier adjoin the Hotel. Sea-bathing, boating, fishing, shooting, etc. Reduced tariff during the winter months. CAUTION.—Tourists are recommended not to be misled by the interested statements of ear-drivers and others, but insist on being set down at the Eccles Hotel. 38 GRANTOWN-GREENOCK-GUERNSEY. GRANTOWN. GRANT OWN, ON THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. THE GRANT ARMS HOTEL, Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen. r PIIIS well-known Hotel has lately been rebuilt and greatly enlarged. Coffee Room, Private Parlours, en suite. Grantown is acknowledged to be one of the very healthiest places in Scotland. The summer climate being peculiarly salubrious, with delightfully bracing air, which is invariably experienced by Visitors in One Day’s time. Cairngorm and the surrounding Mountains, Huntly's Cave, and Castle Grant, are specially interesting, besides the famed scenery of Rothiemurelius and Banks of the Spey, which afford beautiful drives. Good Trout Fishing can be had in the neighbour¬ hood, and Salmon occasionally. The Hotel 'Bus attends the Trains. Posting. Carriages of every description for Hiring. Parties Posted on to Balmoral, Braemar, and Ballater. A. FRASER, Proprietor. GREENOCK. TONTINE HOTEL. First-Class Family and Commercial, (Nearly Opposite the Caledonian Railway Station), GREENOCK. MRS. M'DER.MOTT, Proprietrix. GREENOCK. WHITE HART HOTEL, CATHCART SQUARE, GREENOCK. Dinners from 1 till 4. Within Three Minutes’ Walk of the Railway Stations and Steamboat Wharves. GUERNSEY. OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE. GARDNER’S PRIVATE HOTEL. ri’HIS establishment, being elevated above the town, commands a sea and panoramic J view of all the Channel Islands. Visitors should be particular in mentioning tbe “ Old Government House.” Table d'llote. Terms on application. J. GARDNER, Proprietor. GUERNSEY-GWEEDORE. 39 THE ISLAND OF GUERNSEY; GARDNER’S ROYAL HOTEL, FAMILY & COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUERNSEY. ITHIS Hotel is situated in the most commanding part of the Island, facing the l spacious harbours and the approaches thereto, also having a full front view of the .( adjacent islands of Sark, Herm, Jersey, and Alderney. Visitors should he especially • careful on landing to ask for the “ Royal.” Table d'Bote. I _ JAS. B. GARDNER, Proprietor. GUERNSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS. VICTORIA HOTEL, FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. fliHIS Hotel commands the finest sea view in the Island. The established I reputation of this Hotel is the best guarantee that every attention is l paid to the comfort of its Patrons. Hot and Cold Baths always ready. A Moderate Fixed Tariff including Attendance. Table d’Hdtc at Six o'clock. A Porter in attendance on the arrival of Steamers. | GUERNSEY. AUCTION, VALUATION, AND ESTATE OFFICE, 35 ARCADE. Intending Visitors or Residents should apply at the above Old Estab¬ lished Office for particulars of Properties, Houses, and Apartments to > be Sold or Let, Furnished or Unfurnished, sending stamps for reply to I Frank Collett, Proprietor. N.B.—' The equable Climate, and excellent educational advantages, com¬ bined with the non-existence of Tenants’ Rates and Taxes, and low Rents, ( render this charming little Island most desirable as a place of Residence. GWEEDORE—DONEGAL HIGHLANDS. LORD GEORGE HILL’S GWEEDORE HOTEL Romantic Scenery. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing. Sea Bathing. Tourists will find every Comfort at the GWEEDORE HOTEL. i /CHARGES MODERATE. Hot and Cold Baths, Post Cars, Ponies, and Boats for Hire. Route from Dublin and Belfast, by Strabane and Letterkenny. Gweedoke, Letterkenny, March 1S7S. JOSEPH CUNNINGHAM, Manager. 40 HARLECH-HELENSBURGH-ILFRACOMBE. HARLECH, NORTH WALES. CASTLE HOTEL. T HE above Hotel, which has been newly built and elegantly furnished with all the latest improvements conducive to comfort and health, is now ready for the recep¬ tion of Visitors. It is situate opposite the Old Castle, and in the most picturesque part of North Wales, in close proximity to Dolgelley, Barmouth, Festiniog, Snowdon, Llauberis, Carnarvon, and other favourite resorts. Harlech possesses an excellent beach for barthing (to whieh access is attained by tram-car from the Castle Hotel), where bathing-machines are provided. Billiard Table by one of the best Mahers. Post Horses and Cars. First-class Stabling. W. J, LOVEGROVE, Proprietor. HELENSBURGH. T 'HE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loch Lomond and Trossachs, and Steamer every morning to Dunoon at 8.45, in time to meet the “ Iona ” for the Highlands by that most celebrated Route—Ardrishaig, Crinan, and Oban, to Staffa and Iona. The alterations and improvements at the QUEEN’S HOTEL are now completed, and the Suites of Apartments for Families cannot bo sur¬ passed. The view of the Clyde and Lake is most magnificent. Tourists conveniently arranged. A magnificent Coffee-Room. Smoking and Billiard Room. All Charges strictly Moderate. Omnibuses and Carriages to all Steamers and Trains. A. WILLIAMSON, Proprietor. HELENSBURGH. IMPERIAL HOTEL (WITHIN A MINUTE’S WALK OF THE RAILWAY STATION ANO OPPOSITE STEAMBOAT PIER.) TT ELENSBURGH is delightfully situated on the Clyde, at an easy distance from * ' Glasgow. Tourists will find it convenient for staying overnight, joining the ‘ IONA ’ or other Steamers for Oban, Dunoon, Rothesay, Gareloeh, Loeh Long, &c. Trains leave Helensburgh for Balloch in time for Steamers on Loch Lomond and Loeh Katrine for the Trossachs. Terms moderate. JAMES ERASER, Proprietor. ILFRACOMBE. ROYAL CLARENCE FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. TAEPLETE with every Home comfort. Spacious Ladies’ Coflee- ^ Room. Moderate Charges. R. LAKE, Proprietor. First-Class Billiard-Room. Good Post Horses. Omnibus meets every Train. N.B .—General Coach Office and Delivery Agent. Coaches daily to Lynton. ILFRACOMBE. 41 SITUATION. Iitands in its own Grounds \ f Five Acres, extending to J lie Beach. The Private I'erraces afford the finest larine Promenades at- lached to any Hotel in the kingdom. ACCOMMODATION. •250 Rooms elegantly fur¬ nished. Splendid Dining Saloon. Table d'Mote daily. Billiard Room. Reading Room, &c. &e. Excellent Cuisine. Choice Wines. Moderate Charges. COMMUNICATION, &c. Ilfracombe is accessible from all parts by Steam and Rail, and for those prefer¬ ring it, there is a charming coaching route. For full particulars see Time Tables. "ariff on application to T. W. Hussey, Manager , Ilfracombe, North Devon. THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE. Redecorated and Refurnished. GOOD PUBLIC ROOMS. MODERATE TERMS. Address—THE MANAGER. . 42 INNELLAN-INVERARAY. ROYAL HOTEL, INNELLAN. TOHN CLARK, in returning thanks to his friends and the Public for past patronage begs to announce that the new additions to this already large and commodious Hotel are now finished, and include one of the largest and most handsome Dining Rooii and Ladies’ Drawing-Room of any Hotel on the Firth of Clyde, also Parlours with suite) of Red Rooms on each flat. The Hotel is within three minutes’ walk of the Pier, and, being bnilt upon ai elevation, commands a sea-view of the surrounding country, including Bute, Arran, thi Cumbraes, Ayrshire, Renfrewshire, and Dumbartonshire, making the situation one o the finest in Scotland. The grounds of the Hotel are laid out in walks and interspersei with shrubs and flowers, and is quiet and retired for families. There are also beaut ifu Drives in the vicinity. The Dining Room has a large Fernery, with water fountaii which plays daily during the summer, making it cool and refreshing during the hoi weather. Steamers call at the pier nearly every hour for the Highlands and all parts of thi coast. Tourists arriving at the Hotel the night before can have breakfast at TabL d'Hote at 9 a.m., and be in time to join the “ Iona" at 10 a.m., for the North, calling at Iunellan on her return at 4 r.M. The Cuisine and Wines are of the finest quality. Large Billiard Room attached Hot, Cold, and Spray Baths. Horses and Carriages kept for Hire. Families Boarded by the Day’or Week INVERARAY. ARGYLL ARMS HOTEL T NVERARAY, at the head of Lochfyne, is one of the most desirable, as well as the most romantic and beautiful retreats for Tourists and Visitors. His Grace the DUKE of ARGYLL kindly allows Parties staying at the Hotel the privi¬ lege of Walking or Driving through the Castle Grounds at all times. Gentlemen staying at the ARGYLL ARMS HOTEL can have excellent SALMON and TROUT FISHING on thel Rivers Aray and Douglas, Free of Charge. Ponies kept for ascending Duniquoich Hill. D. MACPHERSON, Proprietor. INVERNESS. 43 Opposite the entrance to the Railway Station. J. S. Christie begs to solicit the attention of the travelling Public to the Royal Hotel, which has been greatly improved and enlarged, and now comprehends, besides extensive First-class Bed-Room accommodation, a SPACIOUS and LOFTY LADIES’ and GENTLE¬ MEN’S DINING SALOON, with handsome DRAWING-ROOM en suite, and several elegant and handsomely furnished SUITES of PRIVATE ROOMS ; also SMOKING-ROOM, HOT, COLD, and SHOWER BATH ROOMS, etc. Though immediately opposite and within a few yards of the Railway Station entrance, the Hotel is entirely removed from the bustle, noise, and other disturbing influences which usually affect the comfort of Hotels situated in close proximity to the Railway. Table d’Hote at 5.30 and 7.30. The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of all trains, and an Omnibus attends the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Posting. INVERNESS. THE HOYAL HOTEL. 44 INVERNESS. INVERNESS. CALEDONIAN HOTEL (Two minutes’ walk from the Eailwat Station). HIS well-known first-class Family Hotel, patronised by the -L Royal Family and most of the Nobility of Europe, has recently undergone extensive additions and improvements. A large and elegant Dining-Saloon and Ladies’ Drawing-Room, also a spacious Billiard and Smoking Room. In point of situation this Hotel is the only one in Inverness that commands a wide and extensive view of the Ness and the great glen of “ Caledonia.” Table d’Hote Daily, and Dinners a la Carte. An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. JOHN MENZIES, Proprietor. INVERNESS. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. Opposite the General Station. T HIS new, large, and comfortable Hotel is taken on lease by Mr. Robertson, late of the Beauly Hotel. The house is specially built for a Hotel, and is elegantly furnished, having all the modem improvements, and contains suites of private Parlours, including Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Coffee Rooms, also large Commercial and Stock Rooms, upwards of 40 Bed Rooms, Billiard and Smoking Rooms, Bath Rooms, etc. Boots will attend the arrival and departure of Steamers, and a handsome Omnibus will attend the arrival and departure of the Steamers. WHEN YOU ARE IN THE HIGHLANDS VISIT ISLE OF WIGHT-JERSEY. 45 ISLE OF WIGHT. THE MARINE HOTEL, , PARADE, WEST COWES. JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR. PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING TEE SEA. The comfort of Visitors studied in every way. N.B.—Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. ISLE OF WIGHT—SHANKLIN. HINTON’S ROYAL SPA HOTEL. {On the Esplanade, directly facing the Sea.) Aspect south-south-east. Well sheltered by surrounding cliffs. Tariff ou application. Table-d'IIote at Seven o’clock. Drawing-room and Billiards for Families staying in the Hotel only. JERSEY. BRITISH HOTEL, FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. r |'lIIS Hotel enjoys an established reputation of more than fifty -L years, and affords Visitors every accommodation at moderate charges. 46 JERSEY-K ENM ORE. JERSEY.—STOPFORD HOTEL. rpHIS first-class Hotel, situated in the test part of St Heliers, has for up- 4- wards of thirty years been successfully conducted under the name of BREE’S BOARDING HOUSE. It has recently been altered, enlarged, and improved, and is now the largest and best appointed Hotel in St. Heliers.- The Dining Room can accommodate one hundred persons, and is lofty and well ventilated. The Ladies’ Drawing Room is new and unequalled by any in the Channel Islands. The Cuisine is perfect, and the Wines excellent. Table d’Hote every day at Six p. m. PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, IF REQUIRED. Carriages of every description at a moment’s notice. Public and Private Dinners served in the best possible style. CHARGES MODERATE. For Tariff, etc., apply to E. BREE, Proprietor. KENMORE. PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS. BBEADALBANE HOTEL. T HIS comfortable Hotel is picturesquely situated at the east end of Loch Tay, quite close to Taymouth Castle, the princely seat of the Earl of Breadalbane. From its central position, it forms an admirable point from which to make excur¬ sions to the historic and romantic scenes with which the district abounds, while its quiet and retired situation eminently suits it for the invalid and lover of nature. A large and commodious Billiard-room has been added to the Hotel. Visitors staying at the Hotel are allowed the privilege of fishing for Trout and Salmon in the. river Lyon free—and in Loch Tay for a specified charge. Coaches run daily during the summer months to and from Aberfeldy and Killin, and the Hotel ’Bus awaits the arrival of the principal trains at Aberfeldy. There is a daily post to and from Aberfeldy and Killin. Letters and Telegrams for Apartments, Conveyances, &c., punctually attended to. JV. li .—The Trout Fishing of Loch Tay, which is free to Parties staying at this Hotel, is considered one of the best in Scotland. W. MUNLO, Proprietor. KESWICK. 47 KESWICK. DERWENTWATER LAKE. THE BORROWDALE HOTEL, {Late ARMSTRONG'S) Patronised by H.R.IL the Prince of Wales, Prince Arthur, and the Nobility of Great Britain. T HE above large establishment is the only Hotel situated immediately at the head of Derwentwater, at the entrance of the picturesque Vale of Borrowdale, and commands the grandest views of the Lakes, Mountains, and Valleys of this, the most romantic, part of the Lake District. Parties visiting this Hotel may safely rely upon the best attendance and all the comforts of Home. An Omnibus 'meets all Trains at the Keswick Station. Posting in all its Branches, Mountain Ponies, experienced Guides, Boatmen, &c., and good Boating on the Lake. Fishing Free to those staying in the Hotel. HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. Parties Boarded by Day, Week, or Month, on the most reasonable terms. E. B. GOODFELLOW, Pro}rrietor. THE ENGLISH LAKES—SKIDD AW FAMILY & COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, KESWICK. Rebuilt, and is now the largest and best Temperance Hotel in the North of England. In connection with the above Hotel are to be hacl POST HORSES, MOUNTAIN TONIES, and GUIDES, on the shortest notice, to any part of the Lake District. Good and extensive Stabling, and Lock-up Coach-House. Also, a large Hall, suitable for Pic-nic Parties, School Trips, or Excursion Parties. N.B.—A COAcn leaves tlie above Hotel every morning during the Season, at 10 o’clock, for Buttermere, through Borrowdale. returning by way of Ncwlands, and arriving at Keswick at 0 p.m. J. GILLESPIE, Proprietor. KESWICK. DERWENTWATER HOTEL, PORTIXSCALE, one mile from Keswick. The Favourite Hotel of the Lake District. rpHIS Hotel stands on the margin of Derwentwater Lake, and commands an extensive -L view of Lake and surrounding Scenery. Large Coffee Room and Ladies’ Drawing Room, also Private Sitting Rooms. Billiards, Pleasure and Fishing Boats, Conveyances, Ponies, and Guides. An Omnibus meets every train ; also Coach for Buttermere dailv at 10 a.m. TABLE D’HOTE DAILY AT SIX P.M. Mrs. BELL, Proprietress. 48 KILKEE-KILLARNE5T. KILKEE. KlllflRNEY TO CONNEMARA, THE LOWER SHANNON, AND KILKEE. T\ POORE'S HOTEL, KILKEE.—Tourists purposing to visit the delightful Scenery of the Western Coast are respectfully informed that ttiis Establishment lias been fitted up in a style that will ensure them every comfort and accommodation. Every exertion is used by the Proprietor to secure from each individual a confirmation of the character his house bears. Tourists will find this to be the most convenient as well as most interesting route from Killarney to Connemara, as, together with the grand and varied Coast Scenery in the immediate vicinity, the road leads by the stupendous Cliffs of Moher, and the interesting Coast Drive by Black Head and Galway Bay. All from Killarney to Galway two days' journey. *** Omnibuses attend the Steamer at Kilrush, and Public Cars convey from here to Ballvvaughan, and Steamer to Galway. THE RAILWAY HOTEL, LAKES OF KILLARNEY, Patronised by their Imperial Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, and H.B.H. the Duke of Connaught, during their visit to Killarney in 1877, A DJOINS Lord Kenmare’s Demesne, and is situated within easy distance of Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Grounds, the Gap of Dunloe, and the principal points of interest. This Hotel, the largest in the Lake District, possesses unusually good accommodation for Tourists and Families, including spacious and well- furnished Ladies’ Drawing Room, Writing, Reception, Billiard, Smoking, Dining, and Private Sitting Rooms. The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of each train for the removal of luggage, etc. Well-appointed Boating and Posting Establishments, with steady Boatmen, Carmen, Guides, &c., attached. The Manager personally supervises the formation of Excursion Parties, with a view to their Comfort and Economy. ; PIANOFORTES. LAWN TENNIS. BILLIARDS. Table d' flute at Half-past Six o'clock. All Charges are fixed and Moderate. Further particulars will be furnished on application to G . j CAPSEY, Manager, (Late Manager Westminster Palace Hotel, London). KILLARNEY LAKES. THE MUCKROSS HOTEL. JOHN ROSS, Proprietor. I N the centre of the best scenery, as a glance at Map of Lake District will show, near the foot of Mangerton, Muckross Abbe}', Tore Waterfall, close to the Lower and Middle Lakes, near the entrance to the far-famed Demesne of Muckross, to which free access is accorded. Very comfortable, and Charges extremely moderate. Good Salmon and Trout fishing. Table d’Hote at 6.30 p.m. Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend all Trains. See that the 'Bus you enter bears Proprietor's Name. KILLARNEY-KILLIN’. 49 KILLARNEY LAKES. Bj Her Most Gracious Majestij’s Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR, on his recent visit to Ireland ; and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c. fpHIS Hotel is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water’s edge, within ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. TABLE D’HOTE DURING THE SEASON There is a Postal Telegraph Office in the Hotel. Hotel open throughout the year. Boarding terms from 1st Nov. to 1st May. JOHN O’LEARY, Proprietor. KILLIN. LOCH TAY, PERTHSHIRE. KILLIN HOTEL, BY CALLANDER AND OBAN RAILWAY, Otic of the grandest Lines in Scotland for Scenery. A LEXANDER STUART, Lessee, begs to inform Tourists and the Public that the above well-known Hotel has been greatly improved and furnished anew in First-class style, and lie trusts by personal superintend¬ ence to make it one of the most comfortable Hotels in the Highlands. Posting in all its branches. Trout Fishing, free of charge, on Loch Tay. Salmon Fishing begins 5tli February, and ends 31st May. Letters and Telegrams for Rooms, Carriages, and Coach Seats, punctu¬ ally attended to. ’Bus meets all Trains during the season. Coach runs daily between Killin and Abcrfcldy during the season. D 50 LEAMINGTON-LIMERICK-LIVERPOOL. LEAMINGTON. THE REGENT HOTEL. A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND HUNTING ESTABLISHMENT. FLYS AND OMNIBUS MEET ALL THE G. W. AND L. AND N. W. TRAINS. POSTING, &c. L. BISHOP, Proprietor. LIMERICK. CRUISE’S ROYAL HOTEL, J. J. CLEARY, Proprietor.. T HIS long-established and well-known FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is now conducted under the sole superintendence of the Proprietor, and possesses everything requisite to pro¬ mote the comfort and convenience of the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, and affords particular facilities to Commercial Gentlemen, having first-rate Show-Rooms, together with Moderate Charges. Omnibuses attend all Trains, Steamers, etc. etc. etc. ; also a 'Bus attends the Night Mails for the convenience of Gentlemen coming by the late Trains. N.B .—This is the PRINCIPAL HOTEL IN THE CITY, and is capable of accom¬ modating over 150 persons, together with a splendid Suite of Drawing-Rooms. HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. Caution —This is the nnlv Hotel in the City called The Roval Hotel. LIVERPOOL STOTT'S COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 39 MANCHESTER STREET, Opposite St. John’s Lane. In close proximity to St. George’s Hall, Brown’s Free Library, Picton Reading Room, and Walker Art Gallery, Lime Street Station, etc. CONDUCTED ON STRICTLY TEMPERANCE PRINCIPLES. SAMUEL STOTT, Proprietor. LIVERPOOL. 51 COMPTON HOTEL, CHURCH STREET, LIVERPOOL. O NE of the most elegant, commodious, and economical Hotels in England, for a description of which the Proprietor begs to refer to a graphic account of his establishment which appeared in the Liverpool Mercury , from which he has freely quoted the following passages :— Having passed the handsomely carved mahogany doors, the visitor finds himself in a capacious vestibule, 15 feet wide, supported by Sienna Marble Columns, all the walls being painted in corresponding colours. The COFFEE ROOM, which is 40 feet square, is beautifully furnished in mahogany, and is suited to the most fastidious taste. The LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM, 30 feet by 20 feet, is, perhaps, the most beauti¬ ful apartment in the Hotel, the furniture being Walnut, upholstered in the richest Maroon-coloured Utrecht Velvet. The COMMERCIAL ROOM, 50 feet by 30 feet, has all the necessary arrangements for Commercial Gentlemen to carry on their correspondence or to meet their customers, and Special Arrangements for the Display of Goods have been made in rooms I prepared and fitted for the purpose. On the first floor of the Hotel are TEA, WRITING, and SMOKING ROOMS. The BED ROOMS are furnished either in Mahogany or Walnut, and nothing but Brussels Carpet has been used. These rooms have been so arranged that several can be used with an adjoining Sitting Room, as a SUITE OF APARTMENTS, or may be indi¬ vidually occupied and completely shut off from each other. The BILLIARD ROOM, situated on the ground floor, is furnished with eleven p handsome new tables, and so seated that the spectator can witness any one or all of i the games in progress. I The RESTAURANT or LUNCHEON ROOM, in the furnishing and decoration of I which no expense has been spared, is supported by handsome marble columns, and f tastefully panelled and painted in warm and cheerful tints. The SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS have received the fullest attention, and are of ' the most complete and satisfactory kind. I The FURNITURE, LINEN, EARTHENWARE, and PLATE, have all been made • expressly for this Hotel at a cost of many thousand pounds. In short, in the Fittings and Decorations of the house no expense has been spared I to secure the Comfort of the Guests, and to invest the Hotel with the character of A Home.— Liverpool Daily Mercury, December 26 th, 1874. WM. RUSSELL, Proprietor. 52 LLANDUDNO-LLANGOLLEN. LLANDUDNO. MOON’S PRIVATE HOTEL. Two Minutes' Walk from Station. Tourists, Families, and Gentlemen visiting this Fashion¬ able Seaside Kesort, will find the above Hotel replete with all that can be desired. Good Bed-rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Coffee-room, Ladies’ Coffee-room, and Smoke-room. barges Moderate, either by Day or Week. LLANDUDNO. THE IMPERIAL FAMILY HOTEL. (centre of bat.) I N consequence of the Extensive Patronage which this ’Hotel has enjoyed since it was opened in 1872, it has been found necessary to add a New Wing. Apartments eh suite. ELEGANT BILLIARD SALOON FOR THREE TABLES. An Omnibus attends all Trains. Excellent Stabling. Tariff on Application. JOHN CHANTREY, Proprietor. LLANGOLLEN. EDWARDS’ HAND HOTEL, THE “HAND,” Unequalled for the Beauty of its Situation on the Banks of the Dee. Several Bed-Rooms and Sitting-Rooms have been added to the House to suit the requirements of Families visiting this delightful Neighbourhood. HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. BILLIARDS. Omnibuses from this Hotel meet all Trains at Llangollen Station. LOCHAWE-LOCHEARNI1EAD-LOCHLOMOND. 53 LOCH AWE, ARGYLESHIRE, PORT SONACHAN HOTEL rTHOMAS CAMERON begs to intimate that the above Hotel, of which he has taken _ a lease, is Now Open, after having been rebuilt on a new site commanding a mag¬ nificent view of the Lake. It contains Public Rooms, Private Parlours, and upwards of twenty Bedrooms, which have all been newly furnished in a superior manner through¬ out. The Trout Fishing in Loch Awe is free, and is not surpassed in Scotland. Anglers will find.first-class boats, with experienced boatmen, always in attendance. The Hotel, which is the principal one on the banks of the Lake, is situated 13 miles from Inveraray, Dalmally 10, Tyndrum 22, Oban 20. Steamer passes and re-passes daily during Summer. Passengers by the Steamer can break their journey at Port Sonachan, and resume it again with the same ticket. A Coach runs between Dalmally Station and Port Sonachan during the Season. Horses and Conveyances kept for Hire. DAILY POST VIA INVERARAY. LOCH EARN HEAD. LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL, BALQUHIDDER, PERTHSHIRE 12 miles by rail from Callander. ( Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited by the Queen) T HIS Hotel, having been re-decorated, has excellent accommodation for Families and Tourists, with every comfort and quiet, lies high and dry, and charmingly sheltered at the foot of the Wild Glen Ogle (the Kyber Fass). It commands fine views of the surrounding Hills and Loch, the old Castle of Glenample, the scenery of the Legend of Montrose, in the neigh¬ bourhood of Ben Voirlich, Rob Roy’s Grave, Loch Voil, Loch Doine, and Loch Lubnaig, with many fine drives and walks. Posting and Carriages. Boats for Fishing and Rowing free. A ’Bus to and from the Hotel for the Trains during Summer. Coaches to and from Crieff daily in Summer. R. DAYTON. INVERSNAID HOTEL, LOCH LOMOND (GREATLY ENLARGED) Landing-Place for Lock Katrine and the Trossaclis, Aberfoyle, &c. ROBT. BLAIR, Proi'RIETOR. 54 LOCHLOMOND. LOCHLOMOND. TARBET HOTEL, (OPPOSITE BEN - LOMOND) A. H. M‘PHERSON, Proprietor, T S tlie finest and most commodious Hotel on tlie Lake, and commands tlie best View of Ben-Lomond. Coaches direct for the far-famed Glencroe, Inverary, and Oban, will commence running early in June. Tourists en route for Trossaclis and Callander can leave per 10.15 A.M. Steamer, next morning, in connection with the Steamer down Loch Katrine. Small Boats on the Lake, and Guides to Ben-Lomond, to be had at the Hotel. May 1878. LOCHLOMOND. ROWARDENNAN HOTEL, Foot of Ben Lomond. B JARRATT begs to return his sincere thanks to Tourists and others who have so • kindly patronised him for the last nine years. Visitors wilt find this Hotel clean and comfortable, with every attention. Rowardennan is the best and shortest road to Ben Lomond, and the only place where Guides and Ponies can be had, by which parties can ride with ease and safety to the top, the distance being only four miles to the very summit. „ .. , ,, . The Loch Lomond Steamers call at Rowardennan Wharf six times a day on their route up and down the Loch.— May 187S. IGGH L010IB, LUSS HOTEL. ROBERT MTVAB. Posting. Pleasure Boats. Fishing Free. TNCHTAVANACH and the STRONE BRAE command the J- most extensive, magnificent, and picturesque prospects of this, the far-famed “QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES.” LOCHLOMOND-LOCH-LONG-LOCH TAY-LONDON. 55 LOCHLOMOND. BALLOCH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCHLOMOND. T HE above first-class Hotel is beautifully situated at the foot of the “Queen of Scottish Lakes,” and at an easy distance from the Railway Station. Visitors will have every comfort, combined with moderate charges. Parties purposing to proceed by first Steamer up Lochloinond would do well to arrive at the Hotel the previous evening. Visitors staying at this Hotel have the privilege of going through the Grounds and Flower Gardens of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., and Mr. Campbell of Tillychewan, and have permission to visit “ Mount Misery,” which commands 17 miles of the most beauti¬ ful portion of Lochlomond—23 islands being comprised in the view. Excellent Trout and Salmon Fishing. Posting in all its branches. Boats for the Lake. GEORGE M'DOUGALL, Proprietor. ARDENTINNY. ARDENTINNY HOTEL, LOCH LONG. rpHIS HOTEL, beautifully situated on the banks of Loch Long, having undergone extensive alterations, is now opened for the Season under the management of Mr. M. Ferguson, for many years head steward of the Loch Gavie and Loch Long Steamers. Tourists and Visitors will find here all the comforts of a home combined with moderate charges. Fishing on Loch Long, and boats to be had at the Hotel. Steamers call several times daily. Posting in all its departments. LOCH TAY—PERTHSHIRE. BEN LAWERS HOTEL. T HIS Hotel has been largely added to and refurnished, offers first-class accommodation to Tourists and Visitors. The Mountain, which is I easy of ascent, is unequalled for Alpine plants. Parties wishing to ascend with ponies should give notice the day previous. Salmon and Trout Fishing in the Loch. Trout fishing free. Coaches in connection with this Hotel to and from Killin, Ken more, and Aberfeldy daily. Telegrams or letters for Boats, Coach-seats, Apartments, and Private Con¬ veyances, strictly attended to. JAMES ANDERSON, Proprietor. THE DEVONSHIRE HOUSE HOTEL, 12 BISHOPGATE STREET WITHOUT, E.C. I HENRY G. CHALKLEY, Proprietor. fTHIS New First-class TEMPERANCE and FAMILY HOTEL, now open to the Public, 1 the best of the kind in the Metropolis, is fitted with every modern improvement, and offers great advantages to Visitors for its excellent position, being in one of the best parts of the City, and two minutes’ walk from the North London, London and North-Western, Great Eastern, and Metropolitan Railway Stations in Liverpool Street; and five minutes’ walk from the Midland and Great Northern Railway Stations in Moor- gate Street and Bank. Splendid Public Rooms, and a spacious Room for holding Public Meetings. The private Sitting Rooms, with lofty Bedrooms en suite, are replete with every home comfort. Moderate Charges and first-class attention. Reduced charges during the Winter, and liberal arrangements made with Visitors staying a lengthened period. A Night Porter for late Trains. Address E. CESARI, Manager. 56 LONDON. LONDON. UPPER NORWOOD. NEAR THE CRYSTAL PALACE. THE QUEEN S HOTEL. HIS unique establishment stands unrivalled for the exquisite picturesqueness and beauty of its situation ; its command¬ ing and central position ; and the commodiousness and complete¬ ness of its general arrangements. Delicate persons, to whom a light bracing air, charming scenery, close vicinity to the Crystal Palace and its amusements, and quiet seclusion, would be an invaluable boon, will find, in this establishment, their wishes fully realised. It is built on a dry gravelly soil, and stands at an elevation of 390 feet above the level of the sea, and is sur¬ rounded by several acres of its own pleasure-grounds and pastures. There are Wings detached from the main building for the accommodation of Families and their suites, Wedding Breakfast parties, &c. The establishment also has its own Dairy, Home¬ made Bread, Kitchen Garden, &c. The Stabling Department is large and complete, and is provided with an ample number of lock-up Coach-houses. SPECIAL NOTICE OF WINTER ARRANGEMENTS AND TERMS AT THE ABOVE HOTEL. The Patrons of this establishment are respectfully informed that Tourists, Families, and others are received on most reasonable terms for the Winter months—which season has many enjoyments for Visitors at the Queen’s Hotel, owing to its elevated, dry, and salubrious situation, and its convenient vicinity to the Crystal Palace and the Winter Garden, whilst it commands by Bail easy access to the West End, the City, &c. Application for terms and other information to be addressed to the Manager. LONDON-LYNTON. 57 THE HOLBORN RESTAURANT, 218 HIGH HOLBORN. ONE OF THE SIGHTS AND ONE OF THE COMFORTS OF LONDON. Attractions of tlie Chief Parisian Establishments, with the quiet and order essential to English Customs. DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS FROM DAILY BILL OF FARE. A TABLE D’HOTE, AT SEPARATE TABLES, EVERY EVENING, In the Grand Salon, the Prince’s Salon, and the Duke’s Salon, From 6 to 8.30, 3s. 6d., including TWO SOUPS, TWO KINDS OF FISH, TWO ENTREES, JOINTS, SWEETS, ] CHEESE (IN VARIETY), SALAD, &c., WITH ICES AND DESSERT. This favourite Dinner is accompanied by a Selection of high-class Instrumental Music. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by H.R.IL the Prince of Wales and other Members of the Royal Family. 3 tpHIS Hotel enjoys the most pleasant and commanding situation in the Neiglibour- i hood, embracing in panoramic sequence the most complete and uninterrupted views of the Bristol Channel, the coast of South Wales,—Tors, Valleys of the East and West Lynn, Lynn Cliff, together with the far-famed Valley of Rocks, etc. etc. 1 . Being entirely surrounded by its own grounds (12 acres), and removed from the main J road, visitors at the same time enjoy the comforts and retirements of a private house, with the advantages and conveniences of a First-Class Hotel, recently and extensively 1 enlarged to meet the requirements of modern society. By strict attention combined with ' moderate charges the Proprietor hopes to merit a continuance of the patronage so I largely vouchsafed. The position is most central, and within easy distance of all places 0 of interest in the vicinity. 1 In connection with this Hotel, and in the same extensive grounds, is a Private Hotel and Boarding House, also replete with every comfort and convenience for families | visiting this romantic neighbourhood. Private Sitting Rooms, New and Elegant Coffee, Table d'Hote, and Ladies’ Drawing Rooms, all overlooking the sea. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. . Coaches in the Season to Barnstaple and Ilfracombe. THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. 58 LYNTON-MOFFAT-MALVERN. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL T HIS favourite and beautifully situated Hotel, which has lately had extensive alter¬ ations, additions, and improvements, combines with moderate charge all necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splendid Table d'Hote and Coffee-Room, Reading-Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, and several private Sitting Rooms, range in a long front overlooking the sea, and looking into the extensive private grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands uninterrupted views of the Bristol Channel, the Tors, and the Valleys of the East and West Lynns, and the Coast of South Wales, &c. The Hotel is also most conveniently situated as a centre for visiting all the places of interest in the district. Post Horses and Carriages. JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. MOFFAT SPA. ANN AND ALE AEIS HOTEL, ROBERT NORRIS, Proprietor. Tourists and Visitors to this famous watering-place will find at the Annandale Arms Hotel first-class accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges. Commercial Gen¬ tlemen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. Omnibuses meet the Trains at Beattock Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along the route—passing “ Craigieburn Wood,” Bodesbeck, Grey Mare's Tail, to St. Mary’s Loch, W every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in connection with a Coach from Selkirk. I Omnibuses ply to the Well every morning. Carriages of all kinds. Job and Post Horses on Hire. MALVERN. THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL Is situate on the slope of the hill in the highest part of the town, and from its bay-windows and Terrace the most beautiful views are obtained. Miss FLIGHT, Manager. EDWARD ARCHER, Proprietor. GREAT MALVERN. THE ABBEY HOTEL, A N old established first-class Family Hotel, occupies one of the best positions in Malvern. Commands an extensive view of the sur¬ rounding country. Handsome suites of Apartments. Coffee-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Managers, Mb. and Mrs. CORDELL BUGGINS. J x WILLIAM ARCHER, Proprietor. MALVERN. 59 MALVERN. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL, RAILWAY STATION, GREAT MALVERN. T HIS Hotel contains upwards of one hundred Bedrooms, Drawing- Rooms, Bed and Dressing Rooms and Closets en suite , a Ladies’ Coffee-Room, a Gentlemen’s Coffee-Room, Table d’Hote, Reading and Billiard Rooms, etc. etc. Of Great Malvern—the salubrity of the air and the purity of the water, its invigorating effects in summer and winter, and the beauties of the place—it is superfluous to speak. As a winter residence, also, the dryness and high temperature of Malvern are shown by conclusive and trustworthy testimony, and are confirmed by comparative tables of winters in other localities. The new Stables belonging to the Company are now open, and com¬ prise first-class accommodation for Horses and Carriages. Carriages, Saddle-horses, and Flies may be had at the Hotel. A covered way conducts the visitor from the railway station to the Hotel. Porters attend every train, to convey passengers’ luggage to the Hotel. To meet the wishes of numerous visitors to the Hotel, the Proprietors have decided to take Ladies and Gentlemen as Boarders during the season, on the terms stated in the tariff, which will be forwarded upon application. 60 MANCHESTER. MANCHESTER. KNOWSLEY HOTEL, CHEETHAM HILL ROAD, Only a few minutes’ walk from Victoria Railway Station, Will be found by Travellers who appreciate Good and Lofty | Looms, and enjoy the Quietude and Comfort which the noisy I part of the City cannot offer, a very acceptable house. Omnibuses to all parts of the City pass the door every few minutes. J. B. BRENMEIIL, Proprietor. MATLOCK. 61 SMEDLEY’S HYDROPATHIC INSTITUTION, MATLOCK BRIDGE, DERBYSHIRE. PHYSICIAN—WILLIAM B. HUNTER, M.D., C.M., Mem. Coun. Univ. Glas., Mem. Brit. Med. Assoc., Mem. Scot. Meteor. Soc. mHIS well-known Establishment is situate in the centre of England, in _L the midst of varied and beautiful scenery, on the south-western slope i of a range of sandstone hills, and at an altitude (of 700 feet above the sea level) that secures a pure, dry, and bracing atmosphere. It is remote from I the great centres of population, yet is easy of access. It is surrounded t by numerous objects of interest alike from the natural, artistic, and anti- I quarian point of view. The Practice, while to be generally described as ! Hydropathic, embraces all that is of undoubted value and safety in the I healing art, with much that is peculiar to itself, and which especially ■ qualifies it for the treatment of delicate and serious cases of disease other- i wise hopeless. The internal arrangements are such as to render it unequalled as a winter i residence for those who might otherwise have had to leave the country. Such is the size and peculiar arrangement of this Establishment, that weeks might be passed indoors in the winter season without any dis¬ advantage to health. Average numbers in winter, 120. Terms, 2i to 31 guineas per week. For Prospectus apply to Manager Electric Apparatus of all kinds in use, including Electric and Elcctro-chcmical Baths. A LAUGH AND HIGHLY VENTILATED TURKISH BATH HAS RECENTLY BEEN ERECTED IN CONNECTION WITH THE BUILDING. Established 28 years. 62 MELROSE-MOFFAT (See p. 58 ) -OBAN. MELROSE. GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL is now Enlarged and Improved, witli Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Smoking Rooms, Billiard-Rooms, and all tlie latest improvements o/ a First-class Hotel, while the Charges are not more than minor Hotels. Being onljl two minutes’ walk from the Station, the same from the Abbey, it is there' ,< fore convenient for Strangers visiting Melrose. March 30, 1878. MELROSE. TOE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY SATE. T HIS is the only Hotel which is built on the Abbey Grounds, at the*i entrance to the far-famed ruins of Melrose Abbey. An extensive 1 addition having been built to the Establishment, consisting of Private Sitting Rooms, Bedrooms, Billiard-Room, etc. etc., it is now the largest Hotel in Melrose, and only two minutes’ walk from the Railway Station. First-class Horses and Carriages to Abbotsford and Dryburgh Abbey. An Omnibus attends all trains to convey Visitors’ Luggage to and from the Hotel. GEORGE HAMILTON, Proprietor. MELROSE, CLEAVER'S KING’S ARMS HOTEL Carriages of every description for Hire. An Omnibus attends every Train Free of Charge. One-Horse Carriage to Abbotsford and back, 6s. 6d. Do. to Dryburgh and back, 7s. 6 d. Dinners, Luncheons, &c., promptly provided on the Arrival of the Trains. THE GRAND HOTEL, OBAN rpHIS New First-class Hotel has been erected upon the grandest site which this famous -*- Scottish Watering-Place affords, and commands an unsurpassed view of Highland magnificence. It has been elegantly furnished, and will be found replete with every comfort and convenience ; and from the Proprietor’s extensive experience in England, and latterly for over seven years as Chef-de-Cuisine in the Western Club, Glasgow, visitors are sure to find this Establishment in harmony with its scenic surroundings. Telegrams for Rooms promptly attended to. C. H. FOX, Proprietor. NAIRN. 63 AV\/1£2.JU! 4J liU t UUf FIFTEEN MILES SOUTH OF INVERNESS. Patronised by the Royal Family. “The Brighton of the North.” I A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Tourists at Moderate | Rates. The house was specially built for an Hotel, and has under- i gone a thorough and extensive repair, and is newly and elegantly furnished in the most modern style, and contains numerous suites of Private Rooms, including Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Dining Saloon with Drawing-Room; also 1 Smoking Room, Billiard Room, &c. Over Seventy Beds can be made up. The Climate of Nairn is well known to be the best in Scotland, and is becoming yearly more and more a favourite resort of the Upper Classes i and Tourists from all parts of the Kingdom. It is also in high repute with the leading Physicians of the Country, who invariably recommend their ( patients in increasing numbers to secure the benefits of the dry and bracing air of the district. Superior Hot and Cold Salt Water Baths in the Hotel, supplied by a powerful Steam-Engine direct from the sea. AN OMNIBUS AWAITS THE ARRIVAL OF ALL TRAINS. Posting in all its branches will be done in first-class style, and will be carefully attended to. JOHN MACDONALD, Proprietor, Late Lessee of Station Hotel, Inverness. 64 north Berwick—oban ( see also page 62.) NORTH BERWICK. ROYAL HOTEL. THE MOST FASHIONABLE AND FINEST MARINE SITUATION IN SCOTLAND. rjlHIS extensive and commodious erection, recently built for a First-Class Family Hotel, replete with all modem appliances, is one of the most complete Provincial Hotels in the Kingdom. Families, &c., Boarded per Day or Week on Moderate Terms. Apartments “ En Suite.” Cuisine under the superintendence of a First-Class man Cook. The Golfing Links are adjacent to the Hotel, and the Bass Rock, Tantallon Castle, &c. &c., are at short Distances. The Walks and Drives are varied and interesting. CHAS. JOHNSTON, Proprietor. OBAN—CRAIG-ARD HOTEL— R. MACLAURIN, Proprietor, G’OURISTS and Strangers visiting the West Highlands will find that, w'hether as re- I • gards Situation, Comfort, or Accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges, this elegant Hotel, built expressly for summer Visitors, cannot be surpassed, while it commands an extensive view of the beautiful Bay of Oban and other romantic scenery in the neighbourhood. The Hotel is situated on an elevated plateau near the Steam¬ boat Wharf, to which a new and convenient approach has been lately added. The Wines and Cuisine are of the first quality. French and German spoken. ’ Table d’Hote daily. Apartments may be engaged by the week at a reduced scale. OBAN-OXFORD. 65 OBAN. CAMPBELL’S GREAT WESTERN HOTEL BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED. FIRST CLASS. L M' RS - CAMPBELL begs to inform the Nobility, 1VX Gentry, and Tourists, that the above Hotel, well known as the first in the Highlands, is now ready for the season. Every attention will be paid to the comfort of visitors. J. CAMPBELL, Proprietress. OXFORD. 7?i the Best and most Central part of the City. RANDOLPH HOTEL (Opposite Martyrs’ Memorial, and surrounded by the Principal Colleges ) FIRST-CLASS ACCOM MO DAT I ON, CHARGES MODERATE. HANDSOME COFFEE-ROOM FOR LADIES. BILLIARD-ROOMS, BATHS, &c. &c. GOOD STABLING, LOOSE BOXES, Ac. E Miss I’ANSON, Manageress. GG PENZANCE-PERTH. PENZANCE-SEA-SIDE. QUEEN’S HOTEL. (On the Esplanade .) Patronised by H. M. the Queen of Holland. T HIS magnificent Hotel has recently been greatly enlarged, entirely re-arranged, and handsomely furnished, having a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of which overlook the sea. It is the only Hotel that commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount’s Bay. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Apartments en suite. Ladies’ Coffee-Room. Billiard-Room. Hot and Cold Baths. An Omnibus meets every train. Posting in all its branches. Yachts, &c. HENRY BLACKWELL, Proprietor. , PERTH. HENRY’S QUEEN’S HOTEL Opposite the General Railway Station, THAT IS THE HOUSE TO GO TO. PERTH-PRESTON. G7 PERTH. THE ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL APPOINTMENT. , Jl/TR. KENNEDY begs to intimate that the Royal George Hotel If'-*- having been recently greatly enlarged and improved, Families, {Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Visitors, will find the Hotel Replete with every Comfort. The Queen’s Room, Commercial Room, Private Parlours, and Jed-Rooms, will be found of the most approved modern style, and he Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Saloon is both elegant and complete. "he situation is the lest in town, and Omnibuses run to suit all trains. I Charges strictly Moderate, and Attendance charged in the Bill. 'J.B.—A Magnificent Billiard Saloon, the best in Scotland in connection with a Hotel, has just been added. POPLE’S ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL (Opposite the General Station). } Patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, I Prince and Princess Christian, Prince Arthur, and other Members of the Royal Family, and the leading Nobility of the Kingdom. r HIS Family Hotel has long stood pre eminent ; and the Proprietor would remark that the same care and unremitting attention, which ire universally acknowledged by all who have patronised him, it will be I lis constant study to continue. PRESTON, LANCASHIRE. Half-way between London and Edinburgh, and London and Glasgow. THE VICTORIA HOTEL, Close to the Railway Station. Established Forty Years. Night Porter. Charges Reasonable. GOOD STABLING AND COACH-HOUSES. Miss BILLINGTON, Proprietress. G8 PITLOCHRIE. PITLOCHRIE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLI SHMENT. "PARTIES wishing to see the magnificent Scenery in this part of th Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions liav’ been made) most convenient, for in One Drive they can visit the Falls of Tummel, the Queen’s View of Loch Tummel; The Far-Famed Pass of KiUiecrankie; Glen Tilt; The Falls of Bruar, &c. Pitloclirie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spittal of Glen sliee and Braemar; and to Taymouth Castle and Ivinloch-Rannoch, b Tummel-Bridge. Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on th. Lochs in the neighbourhood. Job and Post Horses and Carriages of every kind, By the Bay, JFcck, or Month. Orders by tei.egra.ph, for rooms or carriages, punctually • I * ATTENDED TO. London and South- Western and Great Western. PLYMOUTH. 69 The Boyal Hotel, Plymouth. S. PEAKSE, Proprietor. EXTENSIVE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. PLYMOUTH. DUKE or CORNWALL HOTEL, (Opposite the Railway Station). POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE, PLYMOUTH, DEVON. FIRST-CLASS F AIYLI LY HOTEL, CONTAINING A HANDSOME GENERAL COFFEE ROOM. LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM. SMOKING AND READING ROOMS. LARGE BILLIARD ROOM {Two Tables). SUITES OF APARTMENTS. HOT AND COLD BATHS. TABLE D’HOTE DAILY. Address to the Manager, preston (see page G7)—ripon—rothesay. 71 RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY. UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. Patronised by H.R.H. PRINCE of WALES. O NE of tlie Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England, and the principal in Ripon. To meet requirements it has been lately much enlarged and improved. Orders by Post punctually attended to. R. E. COLLINSON, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Proprietor. GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, ROTHESAY, BUTE. L A MAGNIFICENT set of New Turkish, Electro-Chemical, Barege, and i x A. Salt Water Baths, just completed in direct communication with the 1 Establishment. For Prospectus, apply to JOHN D. PATERSON. ROTHESAY- WEST BAY. QUEEN’S HOTEL. Established Twenty Years. Five Minutes' Walk from the Quay on the Esplanade. YyM. M. WHYTE begs to .announce that the extensive alterations and additions to this Old-Established and First-class Hotel are complete, comprising a magnifi¬ cent Dining-Saloon (one of the finest in Scotland), Ladies’ Drawing-Room, elegant Sitting-Rooms, Smoking and Billiard-Rooms, Bath-Rooms, and over Forty Bed-Rooms— all furnished in the most modern style. Beautiful Gardens and Pleasure-Grounds. Letters and Telegrams punctually attended to. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. N.B .—Headquarters of the Royal Northern Yacht Club are in connection with the Hotel. DUKE OF KOTHESAY HOTEL, ROTHESAY. rpHIS Hotel is now re-opened under New Management. The Public Rooms and -L Private Sitting Rooms are large and airy. The-Bed Rooms of a very high class character. Families can have Suites of Apartments, securing almost complete privacy, and at moderate charges. Special Terms for Visitors staying over a week. CUISINE, WINES, LIQUORS, &c., GUARANTEED. / Letters and Telegrams punctuallu attended to. SAMUEL KEITH, Proprietor. (Late of Abercorn Hotel, Paisley.) In connection with Hotel, a First-class RESTAURANT. Soups, Steaks, Joints, &c., always ready from 12 Noon. 7 2 ROTHESAY-RUMBLING BRIDGE —ST. LEONARD’S-SALISBURY. ROTHESAY. (Opposite the Pier.) THE BUTE ARMS HOTEL (FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL) P NOW OPEN nnder New Management. Having "been thoroughly Renovated and Refurnished, those patronisiug this House will find it one of the most comfortable Hotels in the West of Scotland. CHARLES WILSON (of Glasgow), Proprietor. rumbling bridge hotel NEW ROUTE IN SCOTLAND. RUMBLING BRIDGE AND FALLS OF DEVON BY DOLLAR. 1 Lour by rail from Stirling. Fifteen minutes by rail from Kinross, Lochleven. Fine Scenery and First-class Hotel Accommodation. D. M'ARA, Proprietor. No admission to grounds or waterfalls on Sundays, except to those residing at the Hotel. ST. LEONARD’S-ON-SEA. THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL COMPANY (limited.) This First-Class Hotel is now open for the reception of Visitors. The Hotel is situated in the centre and best part of Eversfield Place, facing the Sea, and in close proximity to the Pier. Private Sitting Rooms, a spacious Coffee Room, and every comfort for Families and Gentleman visiting the Hotel. CHARGES MODERATE. Applications for Rooms will be attended to, and the Tariff and further particulars supplied by the Manager, Alexandra Hotel, St. Leonards-on-Sea. SALISBURY. THREE SWANS* T AMY HOTEL A LADIES’ COFFEE-ROOM. A Commodious Gentlemen’s Coffee-Room. There is no Commercial Room in this Hotel, neither is it a Limited Liability Company. HENRY FIGES, Proprietor. SALISBURY-SKYE-STAFFORD. 73 SALISBURY. THE WHITE HART HOTEL. A N old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel, "*■ nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of the most comfortable in England. A Ladies’ Coffee Room, a Coffee Room for Gentlemen, and first-class Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Posting-Masters to Her Majesty. Carriages and Horses of every description. Tariff on application to H. T. BOWES, Manager. SKY E. ' SLIGACHAN HOTEL. THIS House, which has been greatly added to, is nine and a half miles from Portree, fifteen from Broadford, and is beautifully situated at the very foot of the Cuchullin Hills. Ponies and Guides for Coruisk, the Spar Cave, Heart-o-Corry, &C. &c. Good Fishing. Posting. J. A. BUTTERS, Lessee. STAFFORD. NORTH-WESTERN HOTEL (ADJOINING THE RAILWAY STATION). A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for the Nobility and Gentry, which is fitted up with all the Requirements of a Modern Establishment, combined with Strictly Moderate Charges, and is under the personal superintendence of SARAH WOOD, Proprietress. HORSES and CARRIAGES in Connection with the Hotel at the Shortest Notice. 74 STIRLING—STRATHPEFFER. Stirling. GOLDEN LION HOTEL. STUART, late CAMPBELL. rpHIS Oldest Established and First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated near the Railway Station and Castle. It has been newly renovated and improved, and affords comfortable accommodation to Tourists and Families visiting the Beautiful and Historical Scenery in the vicinity. Conveyances await the arrival of all Trains and Steamers. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. ROBERT STUART, Proprietor. May 187S. See Shearer’s Guide to Stirling and Lakes, Is. free by Post. Do. do. to Stirling, Maps and Cuts, 6d. STIRLING. ROYAL HOTEL. rPHIS Old-established First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated, being I within three minutes’ walk of the Railway Station, and is patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and other members of the Royal Family. Please address Letters in full to A. CAMPBELL, Royal Hotel, Stirling. STRATHPEFFER HOTEL, STRATHrEFFEE. In close proximity to the far-famed Mineral Well. ACCOMMODATION GOOD. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. D. FRASER, Lessee. STRATnFEFFER -TENBY— THURSO -TROSSACHS. 75 STRATHPEFFER. SPA HOTEL, A N Old-Established, First-Class Family Hotel, beautifully situated, and within a few minutes’ walk of the Pump Room. Parties are requested to pay no attention to “ Touts ” by the way, who represent the house as full when such is not the case, and should apply to the Proprietrix, Mrs. Edwards. Posting in all its Branches. TENBY. ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL. COMMANDING A DELIGHTFUL VIEW OF THE BAY. (FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.) JOSEPH GREGORY, Proprietor. THURSO. HENDERSON’S ROYAL HOTEL rpHIS Hotel has recently been enlarged and expressly fitted up as a First-class Hotel. The Bedroom and Parlour accommodation are ample, and well adapted to secure the comfort of Commercial Gentlemen and Tourists. Private Parlours and suites of apartments on moderate terms. Daily communication by Steamer to Strom ness. Posting in all its departments. ’Bus meets all Trains and Steamers. First-class Billiard Room. TROSSAGHS. STRONACLACHER HOTEL, HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE. TvONALD FERGUSON begs to return his sincere thanks to Tourists and others for J their liberal support for the last twenty-six years (since the above Hotel was opened). It is beautifully situated at the Head of Loch Katrine, and the only Hotel that commands a view of the Lake. It is the best Fishing Station, and Boats with experienced Boatmen are always in readiness. During the season Coaches run to and from Inversnaid, in connection with the Steamers on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond. Carriages and other Conveyances keptfoi' Hire. Stronaclacher, 1878. 76 TYNDRUM-WINDERMERE-YORK. TYNDRUM, PERTHSHIRE. ROYAL HOTEL. JAMES ANDERSON, Proprietor, T>EGS to intimate having taken a Lease of this Hotel, which adjoins the Station of the Callander and Oban Railway, and recently built, has had it most comfortably furnished and fitted up. The Apartments are of a superior description, and consist of Coffee-Room, Dining and Private Sitting Rooms, and splendid Billiard-Room. The Bedrooms are high, airy, and cheerful. The Wines and Liquors are first quality. Posting in all its branches. Good Trout-Fishing on Loch Nabea, with boats, also Fishing on River Fillan. Coaches to and from Dalmally, Inveraray, Oban, Fort-William, Ballachulish, and Glencoe daily, Sunday excepted. All Orders by Post or Telegram carefully attended to. Charges i'ery Moderate. WINDERMERE. CLOUDSDALE’S CROWN HOTEL. {Patronised by Royalty , American Presidents, and the Rothschilds.) T HE pre-eminence of tlie Crown is indicated by tbe fact that the Hotel has been made a Postal Telegraph Station by Government Authority. As Head-quarters for Families and Tourists desirous of visiting the other Lakes and Mountain Scenery of this Picturesque District, the Crown, both by reason of its central situation and convenient access, is acknow¬ ledged to be unequalled. It faces the Lake and Steam Yacht Piers. The District Coaches run from the Crown for Ambleside, Grasmere, Keswick ; also for Ullswater aud Coniston during the Season. NINETY BEDS. Table d'Hote Daily at 6.30 p.m. Omnibuses attend the arrival of Trains at Windermere Station, and Steamers at the Pier. YORK. HARKER’S YORK HOTEL, ST. HELEN’S SQUARE. T HIS long-established First-Class Hotel occupies the best Situa¬ tion in the City, being nearest to tbe Minster and the Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey ; is free from all noise of Trains, and surrounded by the patent wooden pavement. P. MATTHEWS, Proprietor. YORK-RAILWAYS. "77 C. ABBOTT (late Scawin), RAILWAY AND FAMILY HOTEL, {First Class) YORK. I ESTABLISHED many years. Refurnished and thoroughly Renovated. Near tie J new Station. The next Largest Hotel in York. Private Rooms. Ladies’ and Gentlemen's Coffee-Rooms. Every accommodation for Night Travellers. Porters attend the Station Night and Day. A good Commercial connection attached to this House. Excellent Stabling. Billiard Saloon. N.B .—“ Ask for Abbott’s Porters." In One Volume Crown 8vo. THE LADY OF THE LAKE. AUTHOR’S EDITION". Printed on superfine paper, and profusely Illustrated by Foster and Gilbert, with eleven Photographs of the Trosaehs district. Price 12s. 6d. in cloth gilt, 25s. Morocco, or 31s. 6d. in Clan Tartan. A smaller Edition, foolscap 8vo, in large readable type, cloth extra, price 2s. 6d.; with five Photographs, 6s. cloth, 12s. 6d. in Clan Tartan. Edinburgh : ADAM & CHARLES BLACK. MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF IRELAND. TOURIST TICKETS, Available for Two Months, are issued during the Season from the principal Stations in ENGLAND & SCOTLAND, AND THE WEST OF IRELAND An Illustrated Handbook O . of all the Circular Tours in connection with the Company’s system, containing 1 \ ^ Skeleton Routes for Tours of a week or a fort- night; a “Descriptive Guide” to the places named; and “Anglers’ Companion,” with Eight handsome Coloured Maps and Pictorial Charts of the Districts, and a valuable Geneial Map of Ireland, may be obtained, with eveiy further information re¬ quired, on application to the Manager’s Office, Broadstone Terminus, Dublin. Price (by post) One Shilling.' J. E. WARD, Manager. \ Bbo.vdstone, Dublin, 1S78. 78 RAILWAYS. LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN AND CALEDONIAN RAILWAYS. WEST COAST ROYAL MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 1st, 2d, and 3d CLASS TOURIST TICKETS, AVAILABLE FOR TWO MONTHS, are (during the Season commencing 1st May) issued from the Principal Stations in England to the chief places of interest in Scotland, and also from the same places in Scotland to English Stations. Passengers by the Through Trains between London (Euston Station) and Scotland are conveyed in THROUGH CARRIAGES of the most improved description, and constructed specially for the accom¬ modation of this Traffic. Saloons, Family Carriages, Reserved Compartments, and all other con¬ veniences necessary to ensure comfort on the journey can be arranged upon application to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of the L. and N.-W. Line, Euston Station, London ; Mr. H. Ward, General Superintendent, Cale¬ donian Railway, Glasgow; or to any of the Station-masters at the Stations on the West Coast Route. The Passenger Fares, and Horse, Carriage, and Dog Rates between London and Scotland have been revised and reduced. TABLE OF EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN LONDON AND SCOTLAND. DOWN JOURNEY. Stations. Week Days. Sundays. morn. morn. morn. mom. night night. night.'night. London (Euston) dep. 5.15 7.15 10.0 11.0 8.50 9.0 8.50 9.0 Edinburgh (Princes St. Stn.) arr. 4.35 5.50 8.0 9.45 6.45 9.0 6.45 9.0 Glasgow (Buchanan St. Stn.) ,, 4.52 6.0 8 0 10.0 6.55 9.15 6.55 9.15 Greenock . . . . ,, 6.42 7.15 9.5 11.8 *7.50 *11.20 7.50 11.20 Stirling „ 7.49 10.27 7.36 *9.55 7.36 9.55 Perth. 9.30 11.40 8.40 *11.10 8.40 11.10 Aberdeen „ 3.20 12.40 *4.5 12.40 4.5 Inverness. . . . ,, 8.55 2.45 *6.25 2.45 6.25 No connection from London to Places marked thus (*) on Saturday Nights. RAILWAYS. 79 UP JOURNEY. STATIONS. Week Days. Sundays. aft. morn. morn. morn. aft. aft. morn. night. Inverness . . . dep. 10 0 10.18 12.40 10.18 Aberdeen ... „ morn. 9.15 12.23 4.15 12.23 Pertli S .30 1.55 4.4 7.30 7.45 4.4 Stirling . . . . ,, 9 30 3.24 5.3 S .30 8.50 5.3 Greenock . . ,, 9.0 3.0 4.40 S .10 Glasgow (Buchanan St. Stn.) ,, 10.0 10.2 4.15 6.0 9.10 6.0 9.10 Edinburgh (Princes St. Stn.) ,, 10.0 10.35 4.25 0.10 9.25 6.10 9.25 London (Euston) . arr. 8.0 10.35 5.30 4.5 *s.o 9.20 j 4.5 fS .15 night. night. morn. morn. morn. morn. morn morn. * From Scotland daily, except Sunday. t From Scotland on Sunday. On and after th^'lst June the 10 - 0 a.m. Fast Express from Euston Station, London, will be run to Perth and Dundee. THE LIMITED MAIL TRAINS travel by this route, and are in connection with the Mail Coaches to the Outlying Districts of the Highlands. These Trains have been accelerated between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow ; and additional accommoda¬ tion and increased facilities are now afforded to passengers travelling by them. DAY SALOONS, WITH LAVATORY ACCOMMODATION ATTACHED, are now run between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow, leaving Euston Station by 10'0 a.m. Down Express, and returning from Edinburgh and Glasgow by 10'0 a.m. Up Express on Week Days. No extra charge is made for Passengers travelling in these Saloons, and Compartments are specially reserved for Ladies and Family Parties. SLEEPING SALOONS between London and Perth and Glasgow, and Carriages with Sleeping Compartments, are also run between London and Edinburgh by the Night-Trains. The extra charge for berths in the Saloons or Sleeping Carriages is 5s. in addition to the ordinary 1st class fare. ' Conductors, in charge of the Luggage, &c., travel by the Through Trains. Dog Boxes specially provided. Game Consignments conveyed by the Limited Mail. Family Luggage. — With a view of giving greater facility for the con¬ veyance of heavy Luggage by Passenger Trains, arrangements have been made in all the large towns for carting to the Station, at low rates, the Luggage of Families proceeding to Scotland, and also for forwarding such Luggage by Passenger Trains in advance. The charge for conveyance by Passenger Train is at the rate of 6d. per Truck per Mile, for any weight up to 50 cwts., with a minimum of 10s., and exclusive of a reasonable charge for collection and delivery. May 1878. BY ORDER. 80 RAILWAYS. Midland Railway. NEW ROUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND and SCOTLAND. T HE Settle and Carlisle Railway is now open for Passenger Traffic, anil an entirely New Service »f Express and Fast Trains has been established between the Midland System and Scotland. A Morning Express Train runs between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow, in each direction, with Pullman Drawing-Room Cars attached, and a Night Express Train runs in each direction between the same places, with Pullman Sleeping Cars attached. First-Class Passengers may avail themselves of the comfort and convenience of these luxurious Cars on payment of a small charge in addition to the Railway Fare, particu¬ lars of which may be ascertained at the Stations. For the convenience of Passengers to and from the West of England and Scotland, a New Service of Express Passenger Trains has been established to and from Bristol, Bath, Gloucester, and Birmingham, in connection with the Through Service between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow. The Up and Down Day Express Trains stop half-an-hour at Normanton, in all cases, to enable Passengers to dine. A spacious and comfortable Dining Room is provided at that Station for their accommodation. Through Guards, in charge of the Luggage of Passengers, travel between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow by the Day and Night Express Trains in both directions. Passengers by this Route by the Express Trains between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow are conveyed in Through Carriages of the most improved description, fitted up with the Westinghouse Continuous Break and all the most approved modern appliances. Ordinary Return Tickets between Stations in England and Stations in Scotland are available for the Return Journey on any day within One Calendar Month of the date of issue. BELFAST, BY THE NEW AND SHORT SEA ROUTE via BARROW. T HE capacious New Docks of Barrow, situated within the ancient Harbour of Peel, under shelter of Walnev Island, being now open for traffic, the Swift and Powerful First-class Paddle Steam Ships “ Antrim,” “ Roe,” “ Talbot,” and “ Shelburne,” will sail between Barrow and Belfast (weather permitting) in connection with through Trains on the Midland and Furness Railways ; and through Tickets to Belfast, in connection with the Boat, will be issued from London, Northampton, Leicester, Nottingham, Bristol, Birmingham, Derby, Sheffield, Leeds, Bradford, and principal Stations on the Midland Railway — Return Tickets being available for One Calendar Month. Passengers to and from London, and other Stations south of Leicester, may break the journey at Furness Abbey, Leeds, Derby, Trent, or Leicester; and Passengers to or from Stations west of Derby, at Furness Abbey, Leeds, or Derby, taking care that from any of those places they proceed by Midland Trains. TOURISTS’ TICKETS. SCOTLAND. During the summer months 1st and 3d Class Tourist Tickets, available for two Calen¬ dar Months, will be issued from London (St. Pancras) and principal Stations on the Midland Railway to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Melrose, Dumfries, Ayr, Stilling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places of interest in Scotland. Saloon, Family, and Invalid carriages can be obtained for the use of parties travel¬ ling to and from Scotland by the Midland Route, by giving a few days' notice to the Station Master at any of the principal Stations, or to the Superintendent of the Line, Derby. RAILWAYS. 81 ENGLISH LAKES. During the Summer months 1st and 3d Class Tourist Tickets, available for Two : Calendar Months, are issued from Principal Stations on the Midland Railway to Win¬ dermere, Ambleside, Grange, Furness Abbey, Penrith, Keswick, Troutbeck, and Morecambe. Every Saturday, from May 19tli to October Sth, Cheap Excursion Tickets to More¬ cambe will be issued from Leicester, Nottingham, Derby, Sheffield, Masboro’, Barnsley, Normanton, Leeds, Bradford, Keighley, and principal intermediate points, available to return up to the Tuesday evening after date of issue. For Fares and further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Special Hand-bills. MATLOCK AND BUXTON. First and Third Class Tourist Tickets are issued during the Summer Months from principal Stations on the Midland Railway, and Lines in connection, to Matlock and Buxton—Tickets being available for Two Calendar Months. Passengers holding Tickets to Buxton are allowed to break the journey at principal I places of interest on the Line between Matlock and Buxton. RETURN TICKETS at Low Fares will be issued to Matlock and Buxton, by any of the Through Trains, on Saturdays, from May 19th to October Sth, available for | Return by any Train up to the TUESDAY EVENING after date' of issue. First and Third Class Tourist Tickets available (in most cases) for Two Months, are i issued during the Summer Months from Principal Stations on the Midland Railway, to Scarboro’, Whitby, Filey, Bridlington, Harrogate, llkley, and other Stations in the Yorkshire district. Y’armouth, Lowestoft, Cleethorpes, and other Stations on the East Coast. Brighton, Hastings, Portsmouth, The Isle of Wight, Bournemouth, and other Stations in the South of England. Penzance, Plymouth, Torquay, Exeter, Weston-super-mare, Ilfracombe, and other , Stations in the West of England. Newport, Monmouth, Cardiff, Swansea, Tenby, and other Stations in South Wales. Aberystwith, Llandudno, Rhyl, Bangor, and other Stations in North Wales. Lytham, Southport, Blackpool, and other Stations on the Lancashire Coast; and to Bath, Malvern, Leamington. Brecon, etc.; as well as to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Dumfries, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other Principal Stations in Scot' land. For further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Hand-bills. — PLEASURE PARTIES. From 1st MAY to 2,1st OCTOBER 1878, CHEAP RETURN TICKETS Will be issued to parties of not less than SIX First Class, or TEN Third Class Passengers, desirous of taking Pleasure Excursions to places on or adjacent to this Railway. For particulars, apply to the Station-masters on the Line, or to the Superintendent of the Line at Derby. Derby, 1878. JAMES ALLPORT, General Manager. F 82 RAILWAYS. CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. ROYAL MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. DIRECT TRAINS run to and from London (Euston), Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Bradford, &c., and Glasgow, Edin- DURGH, Greenock, Paisley, Dumfries, Peebles, Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and the North. fia* Sleeping and Day Saloons are run between England and Scotland. Tourists may break their journey at various Stations on the Route. To Greenock, Paisley, Wemyss Bay, the Firth of Clyde and the West Highlands of Scotland. The Company’s Trains run Daily from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, &c., to Greenock, Wemyss Bay, &c., in connection with the Steamers “Columba,” “Iona,” “Lord of the Isles,” and other steamers, to Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Tarbert, Inveraray, Oban, Iona, Staffa, Ballachu- lish, Glencoe, Fort-William, Caledonian Canal, Falls of Foyers, Inverness, Isle of Skye, and Loch-Long, Loch-Goil, Kilmun, Blairmore, Arran, &c. To Stirling, Callander, Dalmally, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, &c., and the North Highlands. Trains run from Carlisle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, &c., to the North, in con¬ nection with Coaches from Callander for Trossachs, Loch-Katrine, and Loch-Lomond ; from Crieff and Locliearnliead for Circular Tour via St. Fillans and Loch-Earn ; from Killin and Aberfeldy for Circular Tour via Loch-Tay and Taymouth Castle ; also for Tours via Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Pass of Killiecrankie, Blair-Athole, Inverness, Aberdeen, Isle of Skye, &c. ; from Tyndrum for Glenorchy, Blackmount Deer Forest, Glencoe, and Fort- William ; and from Dalmally for Loch-Awe, Inveraray, Taynuilt, Oban, Iona, Staffa, &e. Direct Trains between Edinburgh and Glasgow. A full service of Trains is run by the Direct Route between Edinburgh and Glasgow at the most convenient hours of the day. For particulars, see the Company’s Time Tables and Programme of Tours. Caledonian Railway Company’s Offices, JAMES SMITHELLS, Glasgow, 1878. General Manager. RAILWAYS. 83 GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. TOURIST ARRANGEMENTS 1878. 1st, 2d, and 3d Class Tourist Tickets, available for two Months, and renewable on payment of a certain percentage up to December 31st, will be issued from May 1st to October 31st inclusive, at the principal stations on this Railway, to all the Watering and other places of attraction in the West of England, including :— Clevedon. Weston-super-Mare. Minehead. Barnstaple. Ilfracombe. Exeter. Dawlish. Teignmouth. To North and South Wales, including— Dolgelly, Rhyl. Barmouth. Llandudno. Aberystwith. Penmaenmawr. Torquay. Plymouth. Truro. Falmouth. Holyhead. Chepstow. Swansea. Penzance. Bridport. Dorchester. Weymouth. and Channel Iblands. Tenby. Pembroke. New Milford. To Buxton. Isle of Man. Windermf.re. Scotland. Matlock. Scarborough and Whitby. To Brighton. Eastbourne. St. Leonards. Isle of Wight. Margate. Hastings Ramsgate. Dover. And to Waterford. Cork. Lakes of Killarney. Dublin, etc. Passengers holding 1st or 2d Class Tourist Tickets to the principal stations in the West of England can travel by the 11.45 a.m. Express train from Paddington, which reaches Exeter in four hours and a quarter, and Plymouth in six hours and a quarter. For particulars of the various Circular Tours, Fares, and other information, see the Company’s Tourist Programmes, which cau be obtained at the Stations and Booking-offices. PICNIC AND PLEASURE PARTIES. During the Summer months (May 1st to October 31st inclusive), 1st, 2d, and 3d Class Return Tickets, available for one day only, will be issued (with certain exceptions and limitations) at reduced fares, at all the principal Stations, to parties of not less than six 1st class or ten 2d or 3d class passengers. To obtain these Tickets, application must be made to one of the persons named below not less than three days before, giving full particulars of the pro¬ posed excursion. EXCURSION TRAINS at low fares will run at intervals during the season, to and from London, Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, Worcester, Weymouth, the West of England, North and South Wales, the South of Ireland, and all parts of the , Great Western system. Full information as to Trains, Fares, Routes, etc., will be duly announced, and may be obtained on application to the Company’s Superintendents :— Mr. H. Hughes and Mr. A. Higgins, Paddington; Mr. H. Stevens, Reading ; Mr. T. Graham or Mr. T. W. Walton, Bristol ; Mr. E. C. Compton, Plymouth ; I Mr. G. C. Grover, Hereford ; Mr. J. Kelley, Chester ; Mr. N. J. Burlinson, Birmingham ; Mr. J. Richardson, Par ; Mr. G. S. Denbigh, Penzance ; Mr. H. Y. Adye, Worcester ; Mr. T. I. Allen, Newport (Mon.) ; Mr. H. Besant, Swansea ; and Mr. P. Donaldson, Pontypool Road (Mon.) Paddington Terminus. J. GRIERSON, General Manager. 84 RAILWAYS. MAENCL OCHOG RAILWAY. VIEWS FROM THE TOP OF PRECELLY MOUNTAIN, PEMBROKESHIRE, comprise Coast of Ireland, Coast of Devonshire, Snowdon, Lundy Island, St. Bride’s, Cardigan, and Swansea Bays. Tourist Days, Tuesdays and Thursdays, May 1 to Sept. 30. Third Class Fare, Is. there and back. Range of View, comprising 11 Counties. 1. Caernarvonshire (Wales). 2. Merionethshire „ 3. Montgomery ,, 4. Cardigan ,, 5. Radnor ,, 6. Brecon ,, 7. Carmarthen (Wales). 8. Pembroke „ 9. Glamorgan „ 10. Devonshire (England). 11. Wexford & Wicklow (Ireland). RAl L W A YS-STEAM ERS. 85 LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, WATERLOO STATION, LONDON. The Shortest and Quickest Route to the South-West and West of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (“ West¬ ward Ho !”) ILFRACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, TAVISTOCK, LAUNCESTON, PLYMOUTH,'WEYMOUTH, BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTSMOUTH, STOKES BAY, and ISLE OF WIGHT. Fast Expresses and Frequent Trains. Through Tickets in connection with the London and North- Western, Great Northern, and Midland Railways. Regular Mail Steam-Ships, vid Southampton, to and from the CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY and GUERNSEY. Also Fast Steam-Ships for Havre, Rouen, and Paris, St. Malo, Cherbourg, Granville, and IIonfleur. LEITH AND LONDON THE LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING COMPANY’S SPLENDID FAST-SAILING SCREW-STEAMSHIPS MARMION, IONA, MORNA, OR OTHER OF THE COMPANY'S STEAMERS. Sail from Victoria Dock, Leith, every Wednesday and Saturday after¬ noon ; and from Hermitage Steam Wharf, London, every Wednes¬ day and Saturday morning. For Rates of Freight and Fares, apply to Thomas Aitken, 8 Commercial Street, Leith. 86 STEAMERS. SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. ROYAL MAIL LINE. TWO SERVICES DAILY. GLASGOW AND BELFAST, _ DUBLIN, LONDONDERRY, &c. _ SCOTLAND to IRELAND. TWO SERVICES DAILY. First Ser¬ vice, Daily (S undays excepted). Second Service, Daily (Saturdays and Sundays excepted). From Glasgow, Broomielaw . . hy Steamer From Glasgow, St. Enoch’s Station hy Train From Paisley . by Train From Greenock, Prince’s Pier . by Steamer Arrive at BELFAST .... about From Belfast for Dublin . . .by Train From Belfast for L’derry (V. Coleraine) by Train Do. ( Via Omagh) by Train From Belfast for Portrush . . by Train From Belfast for Galway . . .by Train * 6 P.M. 8 P.M. 7.24 P.M. 8.45 P.M. 4.30 a.m. t 7.0 A.M. t 6.10 A.M. f 7.0 a.m. t 6.10 A.M. 9.0 A.M. 9.5 P.M. 9.24 P. M. 10.15 P.M. 6.15 A.M. t 7.0 A.M. t 9 45 A.M. t 7.0 A.M. t 9.45 A.M. 9.0 A.M. * On Saturdays the Steamer Sails from Glasgow at 2 p.m. Passengers from Edinburgh are conveyed to Greenock without change of carriage, by North British Train, leaving Edinburgh at 3.30 p.m., for First Service, and 6.40 p.m. for Second Service, or Passengers leaving Edinburgh at 7.10 p.m. by North British Rail will arrive in Glasgow in time for 9.5 p.m. train from St. Enoch Station for Second Sendee, and Passengers from Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth, Stirling, &c., will find in the Time Tables of the Railway Companies Trains at suitable hours. t Passengers can proceed from Belfast by later Trains during the day, if they choose. IRELAND to SCOTLAND. TWO SERVICES DAILY. First Ser¬ vice, Daily (S undays excepted). Second Service Daily (Saturdays and Sundays excepted). From Galway. by Train From Dublin .by Train From Londonderry (Via Coleraine) by Train Do. ( Via Omagh) . by Train From Portrush .bv Train From BELFAST.by Steamer Arrive at Greenock, Prince’s Pier . . about From Greenock, Prince's Pier . . by Train Arrive at Paisley .... by Train Arrive at Glasgow .... by Train Arrive at Glasgow, about . . . by Steamer 6.15 A.M. 2.0 P.M. 2.45 P.M. 12.30 P.M. 3.35 P.M. 8 P.M. a 4.30 A.M. 4.45 A.M. 5.15 A.M. 5.30 a.m. 6.15 a.m. 2.0 P.M. 5.0 P.M. 12.30 P.M. 5.40 P.M. 9.0 p.m. b 5.30 a.m. 7.0 A.M. 7.44 A.M. 8.0 A.M. 7.30 A.M. a. The Steamers performing the First Service do not proceed beyond Greenock, except on Sunday, when the Steamer proceeds to Glasgow immediately after calling at Greenock. b. The Steamers performing the Second Sendee always proceed to Glasgow immedi¬ ately after calling at Prin. Pier, Greenock. No Train from Greenock to Glasgow on Sutidays. Passengers for Edinburgh by First Service are conveyed direct from Greenock, without change of carriage, by North British Rail (Sundays excepted), and Passengers by^Second Service will overtake S.40 a.m. Express from Dundas St., reaching Edinbro’ at 9.55 a.m. Tickets can only be obtained at the Booking Offices. Cabin Berths secured at the Steam-Packet Offices in Glasgow and Belfast. Passengers are requested to take charge of their own Luggage, as the Ship is not responsible in any way for its safety. Return Tickets available for one Calendar Mouth. Passengers booked through between all the principal Railway Stations in Ireland and Scotland. G. & J. BURNS, 267 Argyle Street, Glasgow. Tours are in operation to the Lakes of Killarney, Connemara, Antrim Coast (including Giant's Causeway), and Sligo, etc , and from Belfast to the Highland and Lake Districts of Scotland. STEAMERS. 87 FLEETWOOD TO BELFAST AND THE NORTH OF IRELAND. EVERT EVENING sISsMilsIt (SUNDAYS EXCEPTED). In connection with the Lancashire and Yorkshire, and London and North-Western Railways. T he north Lancashire steam navigation company’s Royal Mail Steam Ships, Earl of Ulster (New Steamer), j Thomas Dugdale, Duke of Connaught, | Princess of Wales, LEAVE FLEETWOOD FOR BELFAST, Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at or after 7.40 p.m., after arrival | of trains from London, Birmingham, Hull, Newcastle, Bradford, Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, and all parts of the Kingdom ; returning FROM BELFAST TO FLEETWOOD Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at 7.45 p.m., arriving in Fleetwood i in time for early morning trains to the above places. FARES.— Saloon, 12s. 6d. ; Steerage, 5s. ; Return Tickets (avail¬ able for one month), Saloon, 21s. ; Steerage, 8s. 6d. Through Tickets [ (single and return) are also issued from all the principal Stations of the i London and North-Western, Lancashire and Yorkshire, North-Eastern, Great Western, Great Northern and Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincoln¬ shire Railway Companies, to Belfast, and vice versa. Return Tickets are ; available for one month. SPECIAL TOURISTS’ TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR TWO MONTHS are issued during the Summer Season, via the Fleetwood Route, whereby Tourists may visit all places of interest in the North of Ireland and Dublin. For particulars, see the Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North- Western Companies’ Books of Tourists’ Arrangements. At Fleetwood the railway trains run alongside the steamers, and passengers’ luggage is carried from the train at the quay on board free of charge. Fleetwood is unrivalled as a steam packet station for the North of | Ireland, and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast Line of ’ Steamers have made the passage between the two ports for more than thirty years, is probably without a parallel in steamboat service, and has made this Route the most popular, as it is certainly the most Expeditious and Desirable, for Passengers, Goods, and Merchandise, between the great centres of commerce in England, and the North and North-West of Ireland. For further information, see Bradshaw’s Guide, pages 328 and 329, or apply at any of the stations of the Railway Companies before named ; T. C. Haines, 20 Donegall Quay, Belfast; or to THOS. H. CARR, Fleetwood. 88 STEAMERS. “ALLAN” LINE OF MAIL STEAMERS Running in Connection with the Grand Trank, Baltimore and Ohio, and other Railways, and forwarding Passengers on easy terms to all Stations in Canada and the Western and Southern States, Sail from Liverpool to Quebec every Thursday, calling at Londonderry to embark . ( Mails and Passengers. From Liverpool to Baltimore via Halifax every alternate Tuesday. Cabin Fares I to Quebec, Halifax, or Baltimore, £12, £15, or £18, according to position of State Room. From Glasgow to Quebec every Thursday. Cabin Fare, £12 :12s. OCEAN RETURN TICKETS issued at £22, £25, or £30, available for Twelve 4 Months, from any of the American or Canadian Ports from which the Company’s Steamers sail. Passengers taking “ Return Tickets ’’ by this line of Steamers can go out by I way of Quebec, and return by way of Baltimore, or vice versa. For further particulars apply in Montreal to Hugh and Andrew Allan ; in Quebec | to Allans, Rae, and Company ; in Baltimore to A. Schumacher and Company ; in Halifax to S. Cunard and Company; in London to Montgomerie and Greenlionie, 17 Gracecliurch Street; in Glasgow to James and Alexander Allan, 70 Great Clyde Street; ] or to ALLAN BROTHERS AND COMPANY, Alexandra Buildings, James Street, Liverpool. ABERDEEN (. AND LONDON Average Passage 36 Hours. THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY’S STEAMSHIPS BAN-RIGH, CITY OF LONDON, CITY OF ABERDEEN, or HOGARTH, will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting) from ABERDEEN, and from The Aber¬ deen Steam Navigation Co’s. Wharf, Limehouse, LONDON, every Wednesday and Saturday. Fares —including Stewards’ Fees —Private Cabins accommodating four passengers, £0. Private Cabins, if occupied by fewer than four passengers, £5. Single Tickets —First Cabin, 30s. ; Second Cabin, 15s. ; Children under fourteen years, 15s. and 10s. Return Tickets —available for three months—45s. and 25s.; Children, 25s. and 15s. Passengers will please observe that during the season the Company’s steamer “ I< h Dien" will start from the Temple Pier, Thames Embankment, one hour before the advertised times of sailing, conveying passengers and their luggage alongside the Aberdeen steamers free of charge.' Porters in the Company’s service will assist with the luggage. For further particulars apply to James M. Daw, Agent, Tke'Aberdeen Steam Naviga¬ tion Co.’s Wharf, Limehouse; and 102 Queen Victoria Street, E.C., London; or to Charles Shepherd, Manager, Waterloo Quay, Aberdeen. STEAMERS. 89 TO TOURISTS. STEAM TO CAITHNESS AND THE ISLANDS of ORKNEY and SHETLAND From Granton Harbour (EDINBURGH), and ABERDEEN, by the Steamships “St. Magnus,” “ St. Nicholas,” “St. Clair,” and “Queen,” during summer. To Wick every Monday and Friday, to Thurso every Monday, to Kirkwall and Lerwick every Tuesday and Friday. Fares very low, and Passenger accommodation first class. Apply to James M. Davy, Aberdeen Steam Wharf, 257 Wapping, London ; George Mathieson, Agent, 16 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh ; or to Charles Merrylees, Manager, Aberdeen. N.B .—The very fast and commodious new Steamship “ Earl of Zetland,” built and specially adapted for the Trade, is now on the passage, and will ply regularly twice a-week between Lerwick and the North Isles of Shetland. The “ Earl of Zetland ” has First-Class Passenger Accommodation and will give unequalled facilities for Tourists visiting the different Islands with every comfort. WILLIAM M. SHAND, Agent, Lerwick. NEW ROUTE. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. rPHE Steamer “ Dunara Castle” sails from Glasgow for Colonsay, Iona, JL Bunessan (Mull), Tyree, anil Coll, Struan, Carbost, Dunvegan, Stein, anil Uig (Skye), Tarbert and Roilel (Harris), Loclunaddy, Kallin, Curnan and Locli- boisdale (Uist), and Barra. The Tourist who desires (within the limits of a week, and at a reason¬ able expense) a panoramic view of the general scenery of the Hebrides, with all its varied beauty, sublimity, and grandeur, has no better opportunity afforded him than by the above route. Further information and Time-bills may be had by applying to MARTIN ORME, 20 Robertson Street, Glasgow. 90 STEAMERS-MISCELLANEOUS. GLASGOW, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF, AND SWANSEA. Carrying Goods for Newport, Exeter, Gloucester, Cheltenham, etc. The Screw Steamships AVON, ANTONA, CLUTHA, AILSA, SEVERN, PRINCESS ALEXANDRA, or other Vessels, Are intended to Sail as under:— Glasgow to Bristol aud Cardiff— Every Monday, at 2 p.m. Glasgow to Bristol and Swansea —Every Thursday, at 2 p.m. Belfast to Bristol and Cardiff— Every Tuesday. Belfast to Bristol and Swansea —Every Friday. Bristol to Belfast and Glasgow —Every Tuesday and Friday. Swansea to Belfast and Glasgow— Every Wednesday. Cardiff to Belfast and Glasgow— Every Saturday. Fares from Glasgow —Cabin, 20s.; Steerage 12s. Gd.; Soldiers and Sailors, 10s. „ from Belfast— Cabin, 17s. 6d.; Steerage, 10s. Returns for Cabin and Steerage at Fare and a half, available for One Month. These Steamers have splendid Cabin accommodation for passengers. For Rates of Freight and further particulars, apply to WILLIAM SLOAN & CO., 36 Renfield Street, Glasgow. FISHING TACKLE. Gentlemen visiting Edinburgh will find a first-class Assortment of Salmon and Trout Rods, Reels, Lines, Flies, &c., Suited for the Scottish Lakes and Rivers, at PHIN’S FISHING-TACKLE WAREHOUSE, 80b Princes Street, First Door up Stairs, All of Best Material and Workmanship, and at Moderate Prices. Established upwards of Fifty Years. Observe—90 P'RTN’OF.S STTIFFT. next, the Life Association now hnildinor. CHEAP RE-ISSUE. THE WAVERLEY NOVELS, ILLUSTRATED EDITION. N OW PUBLISHING, to he completed in 48 vols, fcap. 8vo, contain¬ ing 1600 Woodcuts and 96 Steel Plates, from drawings by Artists of the highest eminence. Price per Volume 2s. Gd. in Cloth, or 3s. 6d. Half Morocco. EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. MISCELLANEOUS. 91 TABLE GLA SS OF ALL KINDS. GLASS SHADES. FERN CASES, AQUARIA, WINDOW CONSERVATORIES, AND ORNAMENTAL TILE WINDOW BOXES. GLASS FLOWER VASES, FOR DINNER TABLE DECORATION. PHOTOGRAPHIC GLASS MATERIALS AND APPARATUS. STAINED AND PAINTED GLASS, FOR MEMORIAL, ECCLESIASTIC, OR DOMESTIC WINDOWS. GEORGE HOUGHTON AND SON, 89 High Holborn, London. TURKEY, INDIAN, & PERSIAN CARPETS. MANUFACTURED FOR AND IMPORTED BY WATSON, BONTOR, & COMPANY, CARPET MANUFACTURERS TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN AND H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; Superior Brussels, Velvet, Saxony, and all other Carpets in the Newest Designs. Nos. 35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W. 92 INSURANCE-MISCELLANEOUS. INSURANCE AGAINST ACCIDENTS. ACCIDENT INSURANCE ASSOCIATION OF SCOTLAND (LIMITED). HEAD OFFICE—67 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH. ACCIDENTS OF ALL KINDS, INCLUDING RAILWAY ACCIDENTS. £3 a year insures ,£1000 at Death and £6 a week during Total Disablement. 30s. a year insures £1000 at Death. RAILWAY ACCIDENTS ALONE. 15s. a year insures £1000 at Death and £6 a week during Total Disablement. GEO. TODD CHIENE, Manager. TOURISTS’ MAPS. (SELECTED FROM JOHNSTON’S “ROYAL ATLAS.”) Mounted on Canvas, and bound in a Poclcet-Case. s. d. America (U.S.) 2 Sheets, with Index of 5675 Names . 8 0 America (South) . o 5400 8 0 Australia 1 19S0 4 6 Austria 2 »» 6300 ft * 8 0 Belgium and the Netherlands 1 »» 5300 yy • 4 6 Canada . 2 »» 3070 yy • 8 0 China and Japan . 1 yy 2420 yy • 4 6 England . o yy 11,700 yy • 8 0 India . . 2 y t 7500 tt • 8 0 Ireland . 1 tt 5270 »» • 4 G Italy 2 t» »> 6170 yy 8 0 Mediterranean Shores 1 yy 2170 yy 4 6 Palestine 1 3100 yy • 4 6 Prussia . 1 2550 4 6 Scotland . 2 9000 8 0 Spain and Portugal 1 4100 »> • 4 6 Sweden and Norway 1 1630 yf 4 6 Switzerland . 1 4907 yy • 4 6 Complete Catalogue of Maps, £ c., on application. W. & A. K. JOHNSTON, 4 ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH ; and 18 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.C. MISCELLANEOUS. 93 TO TOURISTS. Tourists will find a large variety of STEREOSCOPIC, SCRAP, AND ALBUM VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCEWZRY, GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, Sic. &c. AT REID’S STATIONERY EMPORIUM, 144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. Fourth Shop West of Buchanan Street. Mercantile, General, and Fancy Stationery. BROWN’S SPECTACLE, FIELD GLASS, BAROMETER, PHOTOGRAPH, AND GENERAL OPTICAL DEPOT, 76 ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW.; 94 MISCELLANEOUS. PHOTOGRAPHS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY BY J. VALENTINE, Photographer by Special Appointment To Her Majesty The Queen. DUNDEE, Embracing a very large series of the principal places of interest in the Lowlands and Highlands, in Imperial (8 x 10), Cabinet, Card, and Stereoscopic Sizes. In reference to a series of these Views the late Earl of Dalhousie pre¬ sented to the Queen, he wrote as follows :— “ Sir — I think it due to you, as an artist, to inform you that I had the honour of presenting the set of your Photographs to the Queen, and that Her Majesty was pleased to express her approval of them as works of art. “ Yours truly, “ Dalhousie. “ To Mr. James Valentine, Dundee.” Selections geographically arranged, made up in the finest Morocco Bindings, suitable for Presentation, from £1 : Is. to £15 : 16s. each. Also, Illustrations of the various Tourists’ districts, in Cabinet 12s. 6d. and Card Size, 7s. 6d. Books in Neat Cloth Bindings. Catalogues on application. These Views may he had of all respectable Booksellers and Printsellers ; also of Agents in the districts which the Views illustrate. JOSEPH GILLOTT’S STEEL PENS. Sold by all dealers throughout the World. MISCELLANEOUS. 95 WHEN YOU ARE IN INVERNESS YOU SHOULD SEE THE GREAT JEWELLERY ESTABLISHMENT OP P. G. WILSON, 44 High Street. V ISITORS are freely admitted to inspect the Shop and Manufactory, although they may not wish to purchase anything. The interior is about one hundred and twenty feet long, the front part of which is fitted up in the style of an Exhibition Room or Museum, thereby allowing the Visitor to walk round and see conveniently everything contained in the Shelves and Cases. The "Press” has described “the whole as forming one of the finest places of business in the Jewellery and Watchmaking Trade in the kingdom. ” JEWELLERY, PLATE, WATCHES, CLOCKS, BRONZES, OPTICAL GOODS, &c. &c., Of that superior quality which has won the fame of P. G. WILSON, the COURT GOLD¬ SMITH and JEWELLER at INVERNESS, and extended his Business Connection all over the world ; and he would call attention to the fact, that while his productions and Articles for Sale are of the best quality, his prices are not higher than those of minor establishments, his object being to secure a large amount of patronage, and at the same time the approval of his Customers. *v* Orders hit Pont receive most cnrrfv 1 attention. AND SILK MERCERS, FAMILY DRAPERS, CLOTHIERS, HOSIERS, GLOVERS, SHIRT MAKERS, COMPLETE OUTFITTERS, GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN, | Carpet Factors and Household Furnishers, 78 to 82 TJ1TI01T STREET, GLASGOW, Have always a Large, Choice, fully Assorted Stock ; and Novelties are added to each Department as they appear. 96 MISCELLANEOUS. PHOTOGRAPHS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY. 6. W. WILSON & GO., ABERDEEN, Photographers to Her Majesty in Scotland, "PUBLISH the largest selection of Photographs of Scottish Scenery, comprising Views on the principal Tourist Routes, in Imperial Cabinet, and 4x3 scraps. Also Albums in various bindings filled with Views of the various districts separately, and others of a larger size illustrating a General Tour in Scotland. Just Published, A New Series of London, English Cathedrals, and Abbeys, etc. Prices from 12s. to £10: 10s. Sold by all respectable Booksellers and Printsellers, and by Agents in every district which the Views illustrate. Catalogues on Application. TEN EXHIBITION PRIZE MEDALS. Fry’s Cocoa FRY’S CARACAS COCOA in packets and tins, specially recommended by the Manufacturers, is prepared from the celebrated Cocoa Caracas, combined with other choice descriptions. “A most delicious and valuable article. ’’—Standard. Fry’s Cocoa FRY’S EXTRACT OF COCOA - 11 Which really consists of Cocoa Nibs deprived of superfluous oil, than which, if properly prepared, there is no nicer or more wholesome preparation of Cocoa.”— Food, Water, & Air, Dr. Hassal. J. S. FRY AND SONS, BRISTOL AND LONDON. MISCELLANEOUS. 97 W. H. SMITH AND SON’S REDUCED ORDNANCE MAPS, ETC. ETC., For Travellers and Tourists. “ These splendid Maps, unquestionably the most perfect ever published, have been compiled from the Ordnance and Admiralty Surveys, with railways up to the latest date. Their particulars are most minute and accurate; every possible information that a Map can give is afforded .”—Liverpool Albion. PRICE Is. EACH, Full Coloured, Cloth Cases. Scale, Four Miles to an Inch. Aldershot, showing Surrey, Hampshire. Bedford, Huntingdon, Northamnton, etc. Birmingham, showing Wolverhampton, Coventry, Leamington. •-Plan of the Town. Brighton, showing Hastings, Chichester. Bristol, showing Bath, Bridgewater, Trowbridge, etc. British Isles, Railway Map of, and on linen, 2s. Cambridge, showing Ely, Bury St. Edmunds, etc. Carlisle, showing Silloth, Maryport, Cockermouth, etc. Carmarthen & Sodth-West Wales. Cheshire, showing the Potteries, Man¬ chester, Wigan, etc. Cornwall, showing Land’s End. Derby, showing Buxton, Sheffield, Not¬ tingham, etc. Df.von, North, Barnstaple, Bideford, etc. Dorsetshire, showing the New Forest, Salisbury, Yeovil, etc. Essex, County Map. Exeter, showing Torquay, Plymouth, Glodcester, showing Cheltenham, Hereford, showing, Malvern, the Wye, etc. Ipswich, showing Harwich, Colchester, Newmarket, etc. Isle of Wight. Kent, Gravesend, Margate, Ramsgate, Dover, Folkstoue, etc. Lake District of Westmoreland and Cumberland. Lancashire County. Land’s End and Cornwall. Leicester, Lichfield, Stamford, etc. Lincoln, showing Boston, Gainsborough, Grimsby, etc. Liverpool, showing Southport, Wigan, Warrington, Crewe, Chester, etc. - Plan of the City. Leeds, showing Bradford, Wakefield, Halifax, York, Doncaster, etc. London, showing Windsor, Guildford, Maidstone, Southend, etc. London, Plan of. Is. on paper, and 2s. on linen. London, Environs of. Scale one inch to a mile, (and on linen 2s.) London and Environs Railway Station Map. Manchester, Buxton, Macclesfield, Blackburn, Southport, etc. -Plan of the City. Middlesex County. Newcastle, Durham, Sunderland, Hartle¬ pool, Morpeth, etc. Northumberland, County of. Newport, Monmouth, showing Lower Wye, Cardiff, Merthyr Tydvil, etc. Norwich, showing Yarmouth, Lowestoft. Nottingham, Derby, Lincoln, Leicester. Oxford, Reading, Banbury. Peterborough, showing Huntingdon, Grantham, Melton-Mowbray, etc. Plymouth, showing Dartmoor, Cornwall. -Plan of the Town. Preston, showing Lancaster, Wigan, Rochdale, Blackpool, etc. Rugby, showing Leamington, Warwick, Coventry, Stratford-on-Avon. Salisbury, Isle of Wight, Southampton, Portsmouth, Dorchester, etc. Scarborough and Yorkshire Coast, show¬ ing Y ork, Whitby, etc. Scotland, Tourist's Map, on linen, 2s. Shrewsbury, Welshpool, Stafford. Somersetshire, River Severn. Thames, The River. Tunbridge, showing Rochester, Maid¬ stone, Lewes, etc. Wales, North, showing Anglesea, Car¬ narvon, Denbigh, Merioneth. -Central, showing Dolgelly, Aber- ystwith, Montgomery, etc. -South-West, showing Carmar¬ then, Pembroke, Cardigan. -South-East, showing Monmouth, Brecknock, Glamorgan. Yorkshire, County Map. london: W. H- SMITH & SON, 186 Strand, & at the Railway Bookstalls. G 98 MISCELLANEOUS. Clan Tartan Warehouse. i NEILS0N, SHAW, AND MACGREGOR, 44 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW, SILK MERCERS, LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPERS, SHAWL IMPORTERS, AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN. DEPARTMENTS — British and Foreign Silks. Clan and Fancy Tartans. French and Paisley Shawls. Scotch and English Tweeds. Beal Shetland Shawls. Beal Aberdeen Winceys. Hosiery. Gloves. Parasols. Merinoes. Coburgs. Prints. Grenadines. Bibbons. Bareges. Paramattas. Flowers. Alpaccas. Knitting Tarns. Feathers. Muslins. Trimmings. Laces. Cambrics. Small Wares. Furs. Linens. Shirtings. Flannels. Bed-Ticks. Blankets. A Large Saloon for MANTLES, MILLINERY, LADIES’ OUTFIT, etc. MARRIAGE TROUSSEAUX of the Best Materials and Workmanship. UPHOLSTERY DEPARTMENT. CARPETS, OIL CLOTHS, WINDOW CORNICES, and CURTAIN FABRICS, SCOTCH SHEETINGS, TABLE LINEN, etc. A FULL STOCK OF SUMMER COSTUMES READY-MADE, OR MADE TO ORDER AT A FEW HOURS’ NOTICE, For Coast and Travelling Season. FAMILY MOURNINGS. The Best Materials supplied in all the Departments. A Competent Person sent to Residences in Town or Country to take instructions when required. TAILORING DEPARTMENT. For GENTLEMEN’S and BOYS’ SUITS, A Large Variety of Scotch, English, and German Tweeds, Heather Mixtures, etc., always in Stock. SHOOTING COATS, ULSTER COATS, HIGHLAND CAPES, ETC., Made to Order on the shortest notice. FIRST-CLASS CUTTER ON THE PREMISES. This NEW DEPARTMENT applies also to LADIES’ JACKETS, RIDING HABITS, COSTUMES, BODDICES, and to MINISTEBS’ GOWNS and CASSOCKS. MISCELLANEOUS. 99 Dr. J. COLLIS BKOWNE’S CHLORODYNE. THE ORIG INAL AND ONLY GENUINE. CHLORODYNE is the best remedy known for Coughs, Con¬ sumption, Bronchitis, Asthma. CHLORODYNE effectually checks and arrests those too often fatal diseases known as Diphtheria, Fever, Croup, Ague. CHLORODYNE acts like a charm in Diarrhoea, and is the only specific in Cholera and Dysentery. CHLORODYNE effectually cuts short all attacks of Epilepsy, Hysteria, Palpitation, and Spasms. CHLORODYNE is the only palliative in Neuralgia, Rheuma¬ tism, Gout, Cancer, Toothache, Menin¬ gitis, &c. The Right Hon. EARL RUSSELL has graciously favoured J. T. DAVENPORT with the following “ Earl Russell communicated to the College of. Physicians that he received a despatch from Her Majesty’s Consul at Manilla, to the effect that Cholera has been raging fearfully, and that the only remedy of any service was CHLORODYNE."—See i Lancet, December 1st, 1864. - From W. Vesalius Pettigrew, M.D. I have no hesitation in stating that I never met with any medicine so efficacious as an Anti-spasmodic and Sedative. I have used it in Consumption, Asthma, Diarrhoea, and other diseases, and am perfectly satisfied with the results. From Dr. B. J. Boulton & Co., Horncastle. We have made pretty extensive use of Clilorodyne in our practice lately, and look upon it as an excellent Sedative and Anti-spasmodic. It seems to allay pain and irritation in whatever organ and from whatever cause. It induces a feeling of comfort and quietude not obtainable by any other remedy, and it seems to possess this great advantage over all other Sedatives, that it leaves no unpleasant after-effects. CAUTION.—The extraordinary medical reports on the efficacy of Chlorodyne render it of vital importance that the public should obtain the genuine, which bears the words “Dr. J. Collis Browne’s Chlorodyne." Vice-Chancellor Wood stated that Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was undoubtedly the Inventor of CHLORODYNE ; that the whole story of the defendant Freeman was deliberately untrue. Lord Chancellor Selborne and Lord Justice James stated that the defendant had made a deliberate misrepresentation of the decision of Vice-Chancellor Wood. Chemists throughout the land confirm this decision that Dr. J. C. BROWNE was the Inventor of CHLORODYNE. Sold in Bottles at is. lid., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d., by aU Chemists. Sous Manufacturer : J. T. DAVENPORT, 33 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, London. 100 MISCELLANEOUS. MOURNING. lUfESSRS. JAY, anxious to remove the impression which they find has gained undue circulation, that none but the richest materials in Costumes, Mantles, and Millinery, are sold at their Establishment, deem it a duty to themselves and the Public to assure all families who have not yet dealt at Jay’s Mourning Warehouse, that good wearing materials are cut from the piece, and at more than an equivalent for the price, which is from Is. per yard upwards, and Crape from 2s. 9d. per yard. Messrs. Jay have always at command experienced Dressmakers and Milliners, who act as travellers, so that in the event of immediate Mourning being required, or any other sudden emergency for dress, one can be de¬ spatched to any part of the kingdom on receipt of a letter or telegram, without any expense whatever to the pur¬ chaser. All articles are marked in plain figures, and charges are the same as if the goods were bought for ready money at the Warehouse. Reasonable estimates also given for household mourning at a great saving to large or small families. JAY’S, THE LONDON GENERAL MOURNING WAREHOUSE, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. MISCELLANEOUS. 101 BIRMINGHAM. MESSENGER & SONS, MANUFACTURERS OF CHANDELIERS, CANDELABRA AND GAS FITTINGS, IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU: Carefully constructed on a principle to avoid the Escape and Odour of Gas._ M1)88BU9BE AHD sous’ CASH IK TUB IVTEBUATIOUAL BXHISITJOIf. MEDAL AWARDED. REPORT OF THE JURORS :—“ Messenger and Sons, for great progress, and also for Elegance of Design and Excellent Workmanship.” IRON RAILINGS FOR STAIRCASES, BALCONIES, &c.; Also, Manufacturers and Patentees of RAILWAY SIGNAL, CARRIAGE ROOF, AND OTHER LAMPS AND CARRIAGE FURNITURE. 102 MISCELLANEOUS. LADIES TRAVELLING, Visiting the Sea-side, or otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of the Sun and heated particles of Dust, will find ROWLAND'S KALYDOR A most refreshing and cooling preparation for the complexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and relaxation, and allaying all heat and irritability. Freckles, Tan Spots, Pimples, Flushes, and Discoloration fly before its application, and give place to delicate smoothness and the glow of beauty and of bloom. In cases of Sun¬ burn, or Stings of Insects, its virtues have been long acknowledged. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. The heat of the summer also frequently communicates a dryness to the hair, and a tendency to fall off, which may be completely obviated by the use of ROWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL A delightful, fragrant, and transparent preparation, and, as an invigorator, beyond all precedent.—Price 3s. 6cL, 7s., 10s. 6d. equal to four small, and 21s. per bottle. ROWLAND’S 0D0NT0 OR PEARL DENTIFRICE, Bestows on the Teeth a Pearl-like Whiteness, frees them from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to the Breath a delicate fragrance.—Price 2s. 9d. per Box. Sold by all Chemists, Perfumers, and Hairdressers. Ask for “ ROWLAND’S ARTICLES,” and buy none but Rowland’s. MISCELLANEOUS. 103 ^DlNBURGtt ALEXANDER FERGUSON, 1 MELBOURNE PLACE. THE BEST PRESENT FROM EDINBURGH. FERGUSON’S “EDINBURGH ROCK,” MANUFACTURED ONLY BY ALEX. FERGUSON, GTonfrcttonrr to tfje ©item, antj to JtJ.&.p?. tfje EhtTie of ©Binburgft. Le meilleur Souvenir ou cadeau d'Edimbourg. FERGUSON’S “EDINBURGH ROCK,” fabriqui settlement par ALEX. FERGUSON, Confiseur de Sa Majeste la reine et son Altesse Roy ale le due d’Edimbou rg. £a» bcftc ©efcjjcnf Don Gbtnlhitg. S$ergufon’$ "(gbitt&urglj (auS feinfiem Ruder), einjig unb adcin erjeugt Don SJerpfoit, (fottbtfor 31 >rer SBajeftact bet ^ontgin unb ilongl: $ofyeit be§ ^crjogS Don SBtnburg. L’ OTTIMO DONO O REGALO D’EDIMBURGO. FERGUSON’S “EDINBURGH ROCK,” FABRICATO SOLAMENTE DA ALEX. FERGUSON, Confetturiere di Sua Maestk la Regina, e di Sua Altezza il Duca d’Edimburgo. MISCELLANEOUS. 104 BY APPOINTMENT. TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 37 WEST STRAND , «_GNDGN. New Illustrated Catalogues of 500 Articles for Continental Travelling, Post Free. ALLEN’S PATENT QUADRUPLE PORTMANTEAU LADY’S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU, SOLID LEATHER ALLEN’S PATENT DESPATCH-BOX DESK SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE PATENT SOLID LEATHER PORTMANTEAU ALLEN’S NEW TEN GUINEA ALLEN’S DRESSING-BAG SILVER DRESSING-BAG PATENT BAG Also, Allen’s Barrack-Furniture Catalogue for Officers Joining, POST FREE. PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. (MERCHANTS SUPPLIED.) BLACK’S GUIDE-BOOKS Aberdeen and Braemar, Is Alton Towers and Dovedale, Is Belfast and Giant’s Causeway, Is Brighton, Is Buxton, Is Channel Islands (Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney), 3s 6d Cheltenham and Bath, Is Cornwall (and Scilly Isles), 2s 6d Derbyshire iBuxton, Matlock, Chatsworth), 2s 6d Devonshire (Torquay, Plymouth, Exeter), 2s 6d Dorsetshire (Swanage, Weymouth, &e.), Is 6d Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall (in l vol.), 5s Dublin and Wicklow, Is Edinburgh and Environs, Is England (with Plans of Towns), 10s 6d English Lakes (Flintoft’s & Foster’s Illustrations), 3s 6d Cheap Edition, Is Galway, Connemara, and the Shannon, Is Glasgow and Environs, Is Gloucester (Bristol and Cheltenham), 2s 6d Black’s Guide-Books continued. Guernsey (St. Peter Port, &c.>, Is Hampshire (Seuthampton, Portsmouth, & c.) 2s 6d Harrogate, Is Jbtorofo^*'^ nvwJ "wrAiitVi O.e