ClAXA-.k.'rL Bk.&A&- 
 
 THE ETHEL CARR PEACOCK 
 
 MEMORIAL COLLECTION 
 
 Matris amori monumentum 
 
 TRINITY COLLEGE LIBRARY 
 
 DURHAM, N. C. 
 
 1903 
 
 Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Dred Peacock 
 
 m, 
 
 w 
 
 READING ROOM. 
 
 I 
 
 i No.. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/narrativeoftexan21kend 
 

 NARRATIVE 
 
 
 
 
 OF THE 
 
 TEXAN SANTA Ffc EXPEDITION, 
 
 COMPRISING A DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 A TOUR THROUGH TEXAS, 
 
 AND 
 
 ACROSS THE GREAT SOUTHWESTERN PRAIRIES, THE CAMANCHE AND 
 CAYGUA HUNTING-GROUNDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE 
 SUFFERINGS FROM WANT OF FOOD, LOSSES FROM 
 HOSTILE INDIANS, AND FINAL 
 
 CAPTURE OF THE TEXANS, 
 
 AND 
 
 THEIR MARCH, AS PRISONERS, TO THE CITY OF MEXICO. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP. 
 
 BY GEO. WILKINS KENDALL. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 SIXTH EDITION. 
 
 9 7 
 
 N E W-Y O R K: 
 
 HARPER AND BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET. 
 
 1 847 . 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1844, by 
 Harper & Brothers, 
 
 In the Clerk’s Office of the Southern District of New- York 
 
 7 f 1** S 
 
 ft* 
 
 ' X 
 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE SECOND VOLUME. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Departure from Fray Cristobal. — A broken Gourd. — Cold and dreary night 
 March. — Encounter with a Regiment of Dragoons. — Wild and picturesque 
 night Scenes. — Southern Women in a Northern Climate. — News of Colo- 
 nel Cooke’s Party. — Sufferings upon the “ Dead Man’s Journey,” or “ Jour- 
 ney of Death.” — A morning Halt. — The “ Lake of Death.” — Startling Re- 
 ports. — Murder of Golpin. — A short night Halt. — Farther Sufferings. — 
 Sleep impossible.— Another gloomy night March. — Salezar and his com- 
 fortable Quarters. — Wild roadside Scenes. — Sufferings on the increase. — 
 Another cruel Murder. — Death of Griffith. — Our Feelings on the Occasion. 
 — Once more on the Rio Grande. — The “ Journey of Death” passed. — Ap- 
 pearance of the Prisoners. — F ood and Sleep. — A singular Incident. — Easier 
 learning to Swear than Pray in a Language. — Farther Inhumanities. — 
 Threat of Salezar to search the Prisoners. — Trick to outwit him. — A 
 Batch of valuable Bread. — More of Salezar’s Rascality. — A sunset Scene. 
 Death of Gates. — Gross Inhumanity of a Mexican. — Dreary Passage of the 
 Rio Grande. — Salezar’s last Command.— Arrival at El Paso. — Old Friends 
 seen. — Find ourselves in more humane Hands.' — General Elias. — Our hos- 
 pitable Treatment by him. — Captain Ochoa. — Sumptuous Living. — Sale- 
 zar in Disgrace Page 11 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Ramon Ortiz, the young Cura of El Paso. — His Benevolence.— A pleasant 
 Ride with the Cura. — Description of El Paso. — Its irrigating Canals, 
 Streets, and Rivers. — Residence of Ortiz. — Farther Acts of his Kindness. 
 — A comfortable Change of Linen. — An Opportunity to vex Salezar im- 
 proved. — Last Encounter with that Miscreant. — Arrival of a Courier from 
 Mexico. — Departure from El Paso. — Hospitality of the Inhabitants. — 
 Parting with Ortiz. — Inquiries respecting General Pike. — A Camp with- 
 out Water. — Ochoa’s Attention to. our Wants. — Description of our Escort 
 and Procession. — Mexican Carts and Mexican Character. — Opposition of 
 the Inhabitants to Improvements. — Another dry Camp. — Arrival at the 
 “ Diamond of the Desert,” a noted Spring. — A Rest. — Difficult Passage of 
 the Sand Mountains. — Appearance of the Country. — A travelling Stone : 
 
 z sr % ? 7 
 
IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 its strange History. — Superstitions of the Mexicans.— The “Well of the 
 Star.” — Poor and sandy Country. — Appearance of the Texan Prisoners. 
 — Strange Variety of Costume. — Laughing at Misery . . Page 34 
 
 A singular Hot Spring. — Medicinal Properties of the Waters. — “ Doing” our 
 Washing. — Carazal. — Appearance of the Town. — Dr. Whittaker in Busi- 
 ness.— Charley Tirrell, the Delaware.— A strange Contract. — Kirker, and 
 the Stories told of him. — Captain Spybuck killed by Apaches. — More of 
 Kirker. — Arrival of the Seriora Ochoa, and her Style of T ravelling. — Oppor- 
 tunity to Escape unimproved. — A Mountain Spring. — Laguna Encinillos. 
 — Desolate Appearance of the Country. — Inroads of the Apaches.— Their 
 Prowess and Daring. — Increase of the Tribe. — Visiters from Chihuahua. — 
 Hospitality and the Jesuits’ Hospital.— Situation of Chihuahua. — Mines in 
 the Vicinity. — Governor Conde. — Excitement of the Inhabitants. — The 
 Military of Chihuahua. — ‘Entrance to the City. — Carcel de Ciudad. — The 
 Women of Chihuahua. — The Plaza. — Description of the Cathedral. — The 
 Presidio. — Jesuits’ Hospital. — Salon los Distinguidos. — Names upon the 
 Walls. — Description of the Hospital. — Apache Prisoners. — Hidalgo, with a 
 short Account of the first Mexican Revolution, and the Death of that cele- 
 brated Leader 54 
 
 The old Jesuits’ Hospital of Chihuahua. — American Visiters. — Asked for the 
 Particulars of my own Death. — A stealthy Interview.- — Dr. Jennison. — 
 Clean Beds. — A sumptuous English Breakfast. — Prisoner in the adjoining 
 Dungeon. — A Meeting. — The Mystery unveiled. — Singular Trial. — Testi- 
 mony of General McLeod and Messrs. Van Ness and Navarro. — A Release 
 from Chains. — An excellent Dinner from the Seriora Magoffin. — Visiters 
 at our Room. — Letters to my Friends. — “La Luna.” — Armijo’s Letter to 
 Garcia CondA — Implicated with the Leaders of the Expedition. — Lewis’s 
 probable Agency in the Affair.— A Gasconading Editor. — Poetic Address 
 to a Horse. — Movements of Lewis. — A lively little French Woman.— Our 
 Treatment by the Foreigners in Mexico. — Departure from Chihuahua. — 
 Collection of the Inhabitants. — Furnished a Horse by a Friend.— Difficulty 
 of mounting the Pony. — His Feats and Antics. — The Mexican Saddle, and 
 its Advantages. — El Ojito.— Encounter with American Wagoners. — Arri- 
 val at San Pablo.— A Chihuahua Major. — Our Accommodations at San 
 Pablo. — Practical Knowledge of Entomological Science.— Mexican Horse 
 Jockeys. — Mr. Falconer mounted again. — Saucillo— An Escape agitated 
 —Death of Larrabee. — A young Mexican Musician.— Santa Rosalia. — The 
 Alcalde and his Daughter.— A stolen Horse claimed. — Military versus Civil 
 Law.— Roadside Graves and Crosses. — Stories in relation to them . 74 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 -• «r> 
 
 » * 
 
 > 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 V 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 Arrival at Guajuaquilla. — An Invitation. — Inhospitable Hospitality. — A little 
 Mexican Lawyer. — His Self-importance. — A disagreeable Night. — Our 
 Companions fare better. — Again on the Road. — Rejoicing at Guajuaquilla. 
 — Tricks of a Wag. — Amusing Anecdote. — Montezuma’s Brother. — Arrival 
 at El Rio Florido. — General Pike. — The Hacienda of La Noria. — Its former 
 Wealth and present Condition. — Inroads of the Apaches and Camanches. 
 — A young Irishman. — Visited by pretty Girls. — A well-informed Mexican 
 Lady. — Musical Soiree and Dancing. — Change of Scene. — Arrival at Cerro 
 Gordo, in the State of Durango.— Our new Commander, Colonel Velasco, 
 pointed out to us. — His sinister Appearance. — Visited by a Frenchwoman. 
 — A Fandango and Cock-fight. — Departure from Cerro Gordo. — A general 
 Turn-out of the Inhabitants.— Suspicions in relation to Ochoa’s Integrity. 
 — Our new Guard of Dragoons. — Their Treatment of the Prisoners. — Hon- 
 ourable Conduct of Ochoa. — A roadside Camp. — Colonel Velasco’s Char- 
 acter begins to develope itself. — Excellent Provisions provided. — Large 
 Droves of Horses passed. — An immense Hacienda. — Former Wealth of the 
 Proprietress. — Condition of the Peons, or Working Classes of Mexico. — 
 Farther Insight into the Character of Velasco. — The Texan Officers allow- 
 ed their Parole Page 96 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 Arrival at El Gallo, or The Cock. — Singular Names for Towns. — A rich Sil- 
 ver Mine. — Scenes at a Fandango. — The Well of El Gallo. — Arrival at 
 Dolores. — Guadalupe. — The Prisoners reach Cuencame.— A small Party 
 of us quartered at the House of a Castilian. — Hospitable Treatment. — 
 Strange Superstition in relation to a Statue. — Gullibility of the Poorer 
 Classes. — We are turned over to a new Guard. — Selling a Watch. — La 
 Senorita Juana. — Colonel Velasco takes leave of the Prisoners. — Captain 
 Roblado. — Story in relation to him. — Superiority of the Bread of Cuencame. 
 — Our Departure. — Hacienda of Juan Perez. — Roblado, and his Treatment 
 of an Alcalde.- — A tedious March. — Arrival at San Sebastian. — Frightened 
 Girls and wounded Dogs. — Freaks and Endurance of the genus Donkey. 
 — Arrival at Saenea. — Picturesque Situation of the Town. — The Maguey 
 Plant ; its Uses and Abuses. — One Drink of Pulque sufficient. — A Gang of 
 “Involuntary Volunteers.” — Mode of Recruiting for the Mexican Army. — 
 Rancho Grande. — Decay in Mexico. — An American Traveller. — Arrival at 
 Fresnillo. — The Mines in the Vicinity. — Meeting with an Englishman. — 
 The Tienda del Gato. — Stories and Egg-nog. — More “Involuntary Volun- 
 teers.” — A Stage-coach, and Thoughts of Home. — La Caleta. — First Ap- 
 pearance of Small-pox among the Texans 115 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Approach to Zacatecas. — Tedious mountain March.— Picturesque View. — 
 First Sight of Zacatecas. — Its singular Situatioi}. — Specimen of Roblado’s 
 
 A 2 ' 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Vanity— Entrance into Zacatecas— Character of the Inhabitants —Pas- 
 sage through the City.— Arrival at a deserted Mining House.— Miserable 
 Quarters. — Permission obtained to visit the City.— Inquisitive Urchins. — 
 Arrival at an Irish Restaurat.— A sumptuous Breakfast.— Visit to a New- 
 York Gentleman. — A Stroll through Zacatecas. — Dinner at the Restaurat. 
 —Invitation to another Dinner.— A goodly Company.— Painting of Wash- 
 ington. — A pleasant Evening in Perspective.— Unrealized Hopes.— Again 
 at our old Quarters at the Mining House. — Mr. Falconer in Trouble. — 
 Mexican Justice. — Dr. Whittaker’s Mode of getting rid of a troublesome 
 Sentinel. — Subscription raised for the Prisoners. — Liberality of a Mexican 
 Lawyer. — Departure from Zacatecas.— Convent of Guadalupe. — Santa 
 Anna, and his Fight with the Zacatecans. — Sack of the City.— Refugio. — 
 Arrival at Ojo Caliente.— A Bathing Scene.— Customs of the Mexican 
 Women, and their Fondness for Swimming. — El Carro. — Arrival at Sali- 
 na. — A Kentucky Circus Proprietor. — His Adventure with Roblado. — The 
 Mexican House of Entertainment, or Meson. — The Foreigner meets with 
 but poor Fare. — Modes of living, and Customs of the Lower Orders of 
 Mexico Page 133 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Departure from Salina. — Last Speech of the Kentucky Circus Proprietor. — 
 His Wishes in relation to Roblado. — Arrival at Espiritu Santo. — Pass a 
 pleasant Evening. — A Contrast. — La Parada. — Wild mountain Scenery. — 
 The Organo. — A picturesque View. — First Sight of San Luis Polosi. — A 
 beautiful Valley. — Innumerable Wells. — Large Prickly Pears. — The Peru- 
 vian Tree. — Our Approach to San Luis heralded. — Arrival within the City. 
 — Beauty of the Women.— Description of San Luis. — Its Churches, Con- 
 vents, and public Buildings. — Convent of the Augustine Friars. — Benevo- 
 lence of the Brotherhood. — Wants of the Sick provided for. — An evening 
 Stroll through the City. — Market Scenes. — Encounter with a Company of 
 Equestrians. — A droll Specimen of the Y ankee Genus. — “ Old Hundred” 
 in San Luis. — Return to the Convent. — Visited by the Foreigners. — Our 
 Yankee Wag and his Stories. — Subscription for the Prisoners raised. — 
 Allowed our Parole.- — An interesting Scotch Lady. — Visit to the Circus. — 
 Appearance of the Audience. — An Invitation to Supper. — Find ourselves in 
 the wrong House. — Apologies unnecessary. — Supper at last. — An Opportu- 
 nity to write to my Friends improved. — Departure from San Luis. — A new 
 Guard and new Commander. — An interesting Incident. — Las Pilas. — Arri- 
 val at El Jaral.— Anecdote of General Mina. — Wealth of the Proprietor. — 
 A singular Funeral Procession.— A “Hog on Horseback.” — Description of 
 the Afrieros of Mexico 154 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A Night at San Felipe. — Meeting with one of Mina’s Soldiers. — Santa Anna, 
 and the Estimation in which he is held by his Countrymen. — San Juan de 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Vll 
 
 los Llanos.— Sickness and Suffering. — Tedious Mountain March.— Pic- 
 turesque Scenery. — Arparos ; its romantic Situation. — Arrival at Silao. — 
 An American Physician. — Kindness of an English Gentleman and his 
 Lady. — Approach to Guanajuato. — Singular Entry. — Laughable Scenes. — 
 Arrival within the City. — Visits from the Foreigners.— Fitzgerald and 
 others taken to the Hospital. — Liberal Contributions.— Opportunity to 
 escape.— Departure from Guanajuato. — Singular Location of the City. — 
 La Puerta. — Arrival at Salamanca. — System of Recruiting Volunteers. — 
 Celaya. — Generous Conduct of Cortazar. — Sunday at Celaya. — The Cathe- 
 dral. — Singular Customs of the Indians. — Cock-fighting at the Theatre. — 
 “El Campanero de San Pablo.” — A Spanish Play. — Lady Smokers. — De- 
 parture from Celaya. — Fertility of the Baxio. — Calera. — An early Morn- 
 ing March. — Distant View of Queretaro. — Arrival within the City. — Sin 
 gular Currency and amusing Anecdote. — Soap a legal Tender. — A Stroll 
 through Queretaro.- — American Prisoners. — Spanish System of Shaving. 
 — Texans Stoned in the Market-place. — A Mexican Restaurat. — Adven- 
 ture with a Friar. — Return to our Quarters .... Page 173 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure from Queretaro. — A stupendous Aqueduct. — View of Queretaro 
 from a Mountain Summit. — Number and Magnificence of its Churches. — 
 Meeting with Englishmen.— News that Colonel Cooke's Party were in 
 Chains. — The Diligence. — Letter from Mr. Lumsden. — Liberation of Frank 
 Combs. — Arrival at San Juan del Rio. — Escape of two of our Companions. 
 — They are retaken and punished. — The Indian Village of Tula. — Strange 
 Celebration. — Queer Characters. — Crackers and Sky-rockets. — Approach 
 to the City of Mexico. — Speculations as to our future Lot. — Mr. Navarro 
 separated from his Companions. — Route altered. — “ Quien Sabe?” — 
 Kindness of the Indian Women. — Arrival at the old Palace of San Cristo- 
 bal. — The Texans locked within its gloomy Walls. — Visited by Mr. 
 Lumsden and other Americans. — A joyful Meeting.- — Prospects of Release. 
 — Description of San Cristobal! — Release of Falconer and Van Ness. — 
 Visited by Members of the United States Legation. — Difference in the 
 Policy of the United States and English Governments. — Cause of Mr. 
 Falconer’s Release. — Another Visit from the Americans. — File of Ameri 
 can Papers. — A Letter from Chihuahua, and its Effects.- — Gloomy Presen- 
 timents. — Our Men supplied with Clothing and Blankets. — Celebration in 
 Honour of Santa Anna’s Leg. — Supplies cut off. — Sufferings on the In- 
 crease. — -Nothing to Eat.- — Resorts of the Texans to obtain Food.— Singu- 
 lar Tribunals, with the Results. — A Humorous Witness. — Wild Revel in 
 San Cristobal 191 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Supply of Money received. — Our Sick examined. — Visited by a large Party 
 of Americans from the City. — Hopes of Liberation still offered. — Reflec- 
 tions as to the Nature of my Case. — Departure from San Cristobal. — Start 
 
via 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 for the City of Mexico upon Asses. — The easy Gait of the genus Donkey. 
 — Arrival at the Shrine of “ Our Lady of Guadalupe.” — Flimsy Imposture 
 which caused its Erection. — Anecdote from Latrobe. — Nuestra Senora de 
 los Remedios. — Mexican Beggars.— Tiresome Travel across the Plains. — 
 The Garita. — Mexico, as seen in the Distance. — Arrival within the City. — 
 Forlorn appearance of the Texans. — Commiseration of the Women. — 
 Anecdote of Major Bennett. — Arrival at the Hospital of San Lazaro. — Hid- 
 eous appearance of the Inmates. — A dreary Night. — Visited by the Hospi- 
 tal Physician. — His Prescriptions. — Description of San Lazaro and the un- 
 fortunate Lazarmos. — Speculations as regards the Leprosy. — Happiness 
 among the Lepers. — New Sports and Dances. — We are visited by Mr. 
 Mayer and other Americans.— Our Food at San Lazaro. — Kindness of 
 the Mexicans in their Hospitals.- — Smuggled Food. — Visits of the Physi- 
 cian. — Removed to other Quarters. — Worse and Worse. — Find our Room 
 overrun with Chinches. — -Our Friends gain Access by Bribery. — Depar- 
 ture of Mr. Lumsden and Friends for the United States. — Thoughts of an 
 Escape Page 209 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Taken ill with the Small-pox. — Washington’s Birthday. — A Patriotic Amer 
 ican. — An excellent Dinner. — More of the Small-pox. — Ordered to move 
 our Quarters. — Once more among the Lepers of San Lazaro. — Eight of 
 our Companions marched to Santiago. — Philosophy in Chains. — The Irons 
 nothing after one gets used to them. — Fresh Air and Exercise. — Determi- 
 nation to forego them. — System of Anointing in San Lazaro. — Anecdote of 
 Lieutenant Burgess. — Visit from Mr. Lawrence. — His Departure for the 
 United States. — Death of an unfortunate Leper. — A midnight Funeral in 
 San Lazaro. — Its imposing yet gloomy Character. — Mass in the Church 
 of San Lazaro. — Decorations of the Establishment. — Disgusting Figure of 
 St. Lazarus. — A Procession and a Present. — Don Antonio. — The Fruits of 
 Mexico. — A File of American Newspapers. — Present from Mr. Ellis. — 
 Visited by Mr. Falconer. — Beauties of the “ Vicar of Wakefield.”- — Death 
 of another Leper. — Five of our Companions marched to Santiago. — Prep- 
 arations for a Celebration. — The 11th of March in San Lazaro. — The Hospi- 
 tal visited by Throngs. — Compelled to receive Alms.— Dinner provided for 
 us by a Party of Ladies. — Take an Account of Stock. — Strange Present 
 from a Mexican Lady. — “ Charles O’Malley” in San Lazaro. — Another 
 Celebration among the Lepers. — Fondness of the Mexicans for Flowers 
 and Ornaments. — A dolorous Chant. — The Celebration closes with a 
 Dance. — Wild Revels of the Lepers 231 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Another Dance in San Lazaro. — Mexican Improvisatores. — Accident to a 
 couple of Dancers. — Fondness of the Mexicans for Music. — American 
 Visiters. — An agreeable Afternoon passed. — Good Friday, and a better 
 Dinner. — Fasts preferable to Feasts. — A drunken Lazarino. — Touching 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 Incident. — Visits of our Friends Jirohibited.-^Speculations as to the differ- 
 ent Modes of escaping from San Lazaro. — Several Plans agitated. — The 
 Foreigners once more permitted to visit us. — News of the Appearance of 
 an American Fleet upon the Mexican Coast. — Advised not to attempt an 
 Escape. — A severe Epidemic in San Lazaro.- — Horrible Colds and worse 
 Coughs. — Death of another Leper. — A second midnight Funeral. — Rarity 
 of the Atmosphere of Mexico. — A regular Uproar in San Lazaro. — Jose 
 Maria and his inhuman and vicious Conduct. — Mexican Gamblers.— Far- 
 ther Annoyances from Jose Maria. — An early morning Visit. — Prospects of 
 Release. — Santa Anna’s Reasons for not liberating us immediately. — Gen- 
 eral Thompson at Vera Cruz. — Santa Anna anxious to shuffle out of a 
 Dilemma. — Bright Anticipations of being once more at Liberty. — More 
 American Visiters.— Arrival of General Thompson in Mexico. — The An- 
 noyance of Suspense. — A File of American Papers. — Visit of General 
 Thompson to San Lazaro. — Letters from Friends.- — A Visit from Mr. Per- 
 rin. — Prospects of Liberation again clouded. — An Opportunity of Escape 
 thrown in my Way. — Determination to improve it. — Anxiously await the 
 arrival of Assistance from without Page 250 
 
 CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 Hours of Expectation. — One of the Santiago Prisoners brought to San La- 
 zaro, sick with the Small-pox. — Disappointed Hopes. — Arrival of a Guard 
 of Soldiers at San Lazaro. — Mysterious Conduct of the Commander. — 
 Ordered to prepare for Departure. — A vile Litter produced. — Refusal to 
 enter it. — Leave San Lazaro. — “Farewells” of the Texans and “Adios” 
 of the Lepers. — Gloomy and mysterious night March. — Interior of the City 
 of Mexico. — Stared at by the Populace. — A Coach ordered. — Misery likes 
 Company. — Dogs in the Outskirts of Mexico.— Arrive at our Destination. 
 — Farther Uncertainty. — Ushered into the Presence of Women. — The 
 Mystery unravelled.— Find myself in Santiago, and among Friends. — Or- 
 dered to make Choice of a Partner in Chains. — Select Major Bennett. — 
 First Appearance in Fetters. — Congratulations of my Friends on the Oc- 
 casion. — Major Bennett quotes Scripture again. — Determination to escape. 
 — Santa Anna’s Motives in the Removal to San Lazaro. — Action of the 
 Mexican and United States Governments in relation to the American Pris- 
 oners. — Consider the Chances of Liberation as hopeless as ever. — Strange 
 Conduct of Santa Anna. — No Difficulty in shaking off the Irons. — The 
 “ Secrets of our Prison-house.” — Character of the old Commandante of 
 Santiago. — Texan Tricks upon a Mexican Blacksmith. — The Blacksmith 
 and Santa Anna in Converse. — Description of Santiago, and Chances of 
 an Escape. — The Texans going out to labour in the Streets. — More Play 
 than Work 270 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Fare of the Texans in Santiago. — Their Companions at Puebla not as well 
 treated. — The Latter compelled to work and associate with Mexican Mal- 
 efactors. — Anecdote of the Old Commandante of Santiago. — The Texans 
 achieve a decided Victory over their Oppressor. — The Puebla Prisoners at 
 their Tricks. — Attending Mass in Chains. — Mad Pranks of the Texans in 
 Church. — Additional Ceremonies ingrafted upon the Catholic Ritual.— 
 The Reader taken back to Santiago. — Foreign Visiters. — Farther Thoughts 
 of escaping. — Action of General Thompson in my Behalf. — The Foreign 
 Policy of the United States — Its Weakness and Inefficiency. — Santa 
 Anna “Laughing in his Sleeve.” — Plan to bribe our Guard at Santiago. — 
 Evening Amusements of the Prisoners. — Major Bennett and his Bible. — 
 Agreeable Soirees. — Character of the Anglo-Saxon Race under Misfortune. 
 — Anticipation worse than Reality. — The Texans taken to their Morning 
 Work. — Reasons for Slighting the Author.— More Visiters at Santiago. — 
 Advised to defer an Escape. — Preparations for celebrating the Anniversary 
 of the Battle of San Jacinto. — The Texans at their Work. — Experiments 
 as to the smallest possible Amount of Labour a Man can perform when he 
 exerts himself. — The Mexicans Outwitted. — Decorations of our Room. — 
 San Jacinto and Patriotism. — The Texans at their Celebration. — Close of 
 the Anniversary Page 291 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Intelligence of immediate Release.— Its Effect.— Close of the Celebration. — 
 Night Visiters at Santiago. — Arrival of Mr. Ellis with an Order for our 
 Release. — The old Blacksmith again. — His Services dispensed with. — 
 Once more free from Chains. — Leave Santiago and Imprisonment. — Cheers 
 of the Texans at our Departure. — Congratulations of the young Mexican 
 Officers. — Another night Ride through Mexico. — Encounter with a re- 
 ligious Procession. — Arrival at the United States Legation. — The Gran 
 Sociedad. — Comfortable Quarters. — Sleep impossible. — Change of Cir- 
 cumstances. — The Watchwords of Mexico. — Encounter with a Sentinel. 
 — Early Morn in Mexico. — Strange Cries. — “ Carbon.” — Appearance of 
 the Streets. — Picture of morning Life in Mexico. — Change of Wardrobe. 
 — Visit to a French Barber. — A Shearing and Shaving Operation. — Im- 
 provement in personal Appearance. — Beggars in front of a Church. — De- 
 scription of the wretched Throng. — Return to the Gran Sociedad. — A 
 sumptuous Breakfast— Visit to the British Minister, Mr. Pakenham. — • 
 Once more in Santiago. — Mexican Girls. — Visit to our old Quarters at San 
 Lazaro. — Bribing a Sentinel. — Meeting with the Texans and Lepers. — 
 Call at the Dwelling of a Mexican Lady, an old Friend. — Her musical At- 
 tainments, — Anecdote of her Spirit and Patriotism „ 310 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 An early Morning Walk. — Beggars at their Work. — The Plaza Mayor. — The 
 Cathedral and Stone of the Calendar. — Strange Belief. — Interior of the 
 Cathedral. — Its Appearance. — Filthy State of the Establishment. — Agency 
 of a Pair of new Boots in preventing an Examination of the Cathedral. — 
 Shops of the' Portales. — The Streets of Mexico. — Another Visit to Santia- 
 go. — The “True Blue.” — More of Lieutenant PIull. — Encounter with 
 Major Howard. — His Disguise. — Particulars of the daring Escape of Cap- 
 tain Hudson and Major Howard. — The Italian Opera. — Castellan. — An- 
 other Encounter with Major Howard. — Farther Particulars of his Escape. 
 — Temerity of Captain Hudson. — Mexican Pickpockets. — Their Dexterity. 
 — Mexican Modes of Salutation. — Cordiality of Greeting. — Anecdote of a 
 Meeting with a fair Mexican. — The Mystery solved. — An excellent Trait 
 in Mexican Character.— Hospitality of the Lower and Middle Classes. — 
 Their Benevolence towards the Sick. — The present Priesthood in Mexico. 
 — Domestic Relations of the Padres. — Influence of the Priests. — Their Re- 
 luctance in resigning Power Page 327 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Mode of passing o.ur Time. — Herr Cline. — Mexico by Moonlight.— Note from 
 Madame Calderon. — Rambles over Mexico. — A Dance. — The Jarabe. — 
 Change of Scene. — A murdered Soldier. — Touching Instance of Grief- 
 More Moonlight. — “ Qufen Vive?” — A staggering Padre, — Release of 
 Americans through the Exertions of General Thompson! — Visit to Tacu 
 baya. — Cruel and mysterious Murder of Egerton and his Mistress. — Visit 
 ' to the Acordada. — A Show-case of Murder. — Gloomy Entrance to the Acor- 
 dada. — Some Description of the Interior. — Release of a Female Prisoner. 
 — Mr. Navarro. — Story of his Wrongs. — Robbery and Crime in the Acor- 
 dada. — Texan Prisoners within its dreary Walls. — Take Leave of Mr. 
 Navarro. — Farther Description of the Prison. — Encounter with Dutch 
 Broom Girls. — An old Acquaintance in the Broom Line. — The Ballad- 
 mongers badly patronised. — Evangelistas, or .Letter- writers of Mexico. — 
 Their singular Calling. — Stock in Trade' of the Evangelista. — Mexican 
 Coaches and Mexican Coachmen. — Another Visit to Santiago. — More of 
 the Mexican Coachmen ......... 345 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 The Alameda. — Visit to that noted Pleasure-ground. — A Yankee Livery- 
 stable-keeper in Mexico. — A Shower. — Paseo Nuevo. — Family Parties in 
 their Carriages. — Mexican Cavaliers on Horseback. — Singular Gait of their 
 Steeds. — Manner of training them.— Race with a Shower. — Santa Anna. 
 — His Courtesy, Policy, Power, and ambitious Projects. — Reasons for the 
 Decline of the Mexican Republic. — Our last Night in Mexico. — More of 
 Captain Hudson. — Santa Anna’s Benevolence ! — Take leave of our 
 
 II.— A 
 
XU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Friends. — San Lazaro again. — Mexican Escort. — Mexico from the Mount- 
 ain Sides. — Arrival at a Breakfast-House,— Arms and Equipments of our 
 Party. — A Yankee Driver. — Roadside Crosses and Graves. — Stories of 
 Robbers. — Robbing the Stages reduced to a System. — Senor Garcia 
 and the Ladrones. — Rio Frio. — Mexican Dogs. — Cholula in the Distance. 
 — Arrival at Puebla. — Visit to the Texan Prisoners at the Presidio. — Their 
 unfortunate Condition. — The Cathedral of Puebla. — Its great Riches. — 
 Anecdote of the Angels. — Superstition from which Puebla received its 
 Name. — In Bed and Asleep Page 361 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Preparations for Departure. — High Words with a Mexican Stage-agent. — ■ 
 A Victory. — A Scotch Traveller. — No Room for another Passenger. — ■ 
 Leave the “ City of the Angels.”- — Approach of an Escort. — Appearance 
 of the Dragoons. — Arrival a-t El Pinal. — Roadside Graves. — Change of 
 Horses. — A wild' Mexican Steed and his Antics. — A rapid Start. — A no- 
 ted Stand for Robbers. — Another doughty Escort. — The Mai Pais and 
 Cerro de Pizarro. — Arrival at Perote. — Visit to the Texan Prisoners. — 
 Their Condition. — A vile Supper.— A French Lady. — Another early Start. 
 — Coldness of the Mountain Air.— A false Ala/m. — Colder and Colder. — 
 Tierras Frias. — Arrival at Las Vigas.— In want of Refreshments. — No 
 hai” and “Quien sabe” again. — Wild Mountain Scenery. — Volcanic For- 
 mations. — El Cofre de Perote. — Strange'Indian Legend. — Leave the Re- 
 gion of Lava. — Remarkable Changeof Scene and Climate. — Sudden Tran- 
 sition. — Halt at the House of a Mexican Lady. — Singularity of her Con- 
 duct. — La Guerra Rodriguez. — Examination of our Passports at the Garita 
 — Arrival at Jalapa 378 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 The Cracovienne. — Large Body of Mexican Troops. — Their Inefficiency. — 
 Speculations as to the Result of an Invasion of Mexico. — The Vomito at 
 Vera Cruz. — Determination to remain at Jalapa. — The Scotchman we had 
 left at Puebla arrives. — Work of the Robbers. — Indian Girls from the 
 Tierra Caliente. — Picturesque and neat Style of Dressing their Hair. — A 
 pleasant Ride. — Departure from Jalapa. — Description of the Litera. — - 
 Changing Teams. — Mexican Drivers^ — Puente Nacional. — Night Ride 
 through the Hot Country.— Residence of Santa Anna. — Fireflies. — Santa 
 Fe. — Number of Dogs in the Vicinity. — Singular District. — The Gulf of 
 Mexico in Sight. — Arrival at Vera Cruz.- — A Conducta. — Sopilotes.— The 
 Black Vomit again. — Arrival on board the Woodbury. — Commodore Ma- 
 rin. — Salutes. — Under Way. — Pleasant Passage. — The Balize in Sight. — 
 Author’s Leave of his Reader . . . . . . . . 394 
 
NARRATIVE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 FIRST TEXAN SANTA FE EXPEDITION. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Departure from Fray Cristobal. — A broken Gourd. — Cold and dreary night 
 March. — Encounter with a Regiment of Dragoons. — Wild and picturesque 
 night Scenes. — Southern Women in a Northern Climate. — News of Colo- 
 nel Cooke’s Party. — Sufferings upon the “ Dead Man’s Journey,” or “ Jour- 
 ney of Death.”— A morning Halt. — The “ Lake of Dearth, ’’—Startling Re- 
 ports. — Murder of Golpin. — A short night Halt. — Farther Sufferings. — 
 Sleep impossible — Another gloomy night March— Salezar and his com- 
 fortable Quarters.— Wild roadside Scenes.— Sufferings on the increase. — 
 Another cruel Murder. — Death of Griffith. — Our Feelings on the Occasion. 
 — Once more on the Rio Grande. — The “Journey of Death” passed. — Ap- 
 pearance of the Prisoners. — Food and Sleep.— A singular Incident. — Easier 
 learning to Swear than Pray in a Language. — Farther Inhumanities. — 
 Threat of Salezar to search the Prisoners. — Trick to outwit him.- — A 
 Batch of valuable Bread. — More of Salezar’s Rascality. — A sunset Scene. 
 Death of Gates. — Gross Inhumanity of a Mexican. — Dreary Passage of the 
 Rio Grande. — Salezar’s last Command. — Arrival at El Paso. — Old Friends 
 seen. — Find ourselves in. more humane Hands.— General Elias. — Our hos- 
 pitable Treatment by him. — Captain Ochoa. — Sumptuous Living. — Sale- 
 zar in Disgrace. 
 
 We remained at Fray Cristobal until near night, the 
 snow, in the mean time, thawing away entirely under 
 the influence of the sun. Salezar said aloud, on start- 
 ing, that we were to be driven through the entire ninety 
 miles without sleep or a morsel of food, and as there 
 was no water on the route, he advised such of us as had 
 gourds or canteens to fill them before setting out : an 
 
12 
 
 CAMP FIRES. 
 
 exhibition of humanity truly considerate and unlooked 
 for in him. 
 
 At a steady pace we journeyed onward till dark, the 
 weather mild and pleasant for walking ; but now a raw 
 night wind sprang up, fresh and piercing, from the snow- 
 clad mountains, and chilling our weak frames so thor- 
 oughly that the most violent exercise could not keep us 
 warm. A water-gourd, holding some two quarts, which 
 I had filled on starting, after taking a hearty draught at 
 the river, slipped from my benumbed fingers, and was 
 dashed to pieces on the frozen ground. The animals 
 of our guard went begging for riders, for even their 
 hardy owners were obliged to dismount and run on 
 foot to prevent their limbs from freezing. 
 
 About nine o’clock at night we met a regiment of 
 dragoons, under Colonel Munoz, on their way from 
 Durango to Santa Fe: troops that had been despatched 
 by the Central Government to take part in any hostili- 
 ties that might occur with the Texans. Being from a 
 more southern and temperate climate, they suffered ex- 
 cessively from the cold, so much so that many of them 
 were leading their horses and setting fire to every little 
 tuft of palm or dry grass on either side of the road. 
 Around these blazing tufts, and scattered along the road 
 for miles, were to be seen knots of half-frozen dragoons, 
 mingled with a large number of women, who always 
 follow the Mexican soldiery on a march. How the 
 latter, who were but half clad even in the warmest cli- 
 mate, could withstand the bitter cold of that dreary 
 night, is to me incomprehensible. 
 
 Wild and picturesque was the scene presented by the 
 train of roadside fires, each with a little bevy huddling 
 and shivering around the red-glaring and fitful lights, 
 the lengthened and flitting shadows coming and going, 
 
HORRORS OF THE DEAD MAN’S JOURNEY. 13 
 
 and losing themselves in the sombre obscuration of 
 night. There would be seen the officer, cloaked and 
 blanketed, standing side by side with one of his men, 
 the head of the latter covered with a clumsy, bearskin 
 dragoon cap, while he would share his sky-blue military 
 cloak with some woman who had followed him, may- 
 hap, from the tierra caliente , or sunny south, and was 
 now, for the first time, visiting the region of snow. As 
 tuft after tuft would fall away at the touch of fire, the 
 wild group would hurry on to others, soon kindle them, 
 and as they in turn would suddenly flash up, blaze for 
 a few moments, and then as suddenly expire, away 
 they would hie to the next. Eldrich and spectre faces 
 came and vanished on that barren moor, that did strong- 
 ly remind me of the witch scenes in Macbeth. While 
 standing around these fires some of the dragoons in- 
 formed our men that they had met Colonel Cooke’s 
 party near Chihuahua, and that they were well treated 
 on the road. There was consolation in this, for we had 
 heard many rumours of the bad treatment we might 
 expect on the other side of the Paso del Norte. 
 
 The sufferings, the horrors of that dreadful night upon 
 the Dead Man’s Journey cannot soon be effaced from 
 the memory of those who endured them. Although 
 my sore and blistered feet, and still lame ankle, pained 
 me excessively, it was nothing to the biting cold and 
 the helpless drowsiness which cold begets. No halt 
 was called — had any of us fallen asleep by the road- 
 side after midnight, it would have been the sleep of 
 death. Towards daylight many of the prisoners were 
 fairly walking in their sleep and staggering about, from 
 one side of the road to the other, like so many drunken 
 men. Completely chilled through, even their senses 
 were benumbed, and they would sink by the roadside 
 Vol. II.— B 
 
14 
 
 MURDER OF GOLPIN. 
 
 and beg to be left behind, to sleep and to perish. A 
 stupor, a perfect indifference for life, came over many 
 of us, and the stronger found employment in rousing 
 and assisting the weaker. Anxiously did we wait the 
 coming of the sun, for that would at least bring warmth 
 and animation to our paralyzed limbs and faculties. 
 
 Daylight came at last, and with it came a halt of an 
 hour, to bring up the stragglers and count the prison- 
 ers. By the time the last of us were up the trumpet 
 again sounded the advance, and once more we were 
 upon the road. Towards noon we passed the Dead 
 Man’s Lake, or Lake of Death, its bed perfectly dry. 
 The coolness of the weather, however, and the fact that 
 we had nothing to eat, prevented that thirst which in a 
 warmer temperature would have caused sufferings of a 
 nature that cannot be described. 
 
 As the sun was about setting, those of us who were 
 in front were startled by the report of two guns, follow- 
 ing each other in quick succession. We turned to as- 
 certain the cause, and soon found that a poor, unfortu- 
 nate man, named Golpin, a merchant, who had joined 
 the expedition with a small amount of goods, had been 
 shot by the rear-guard for no other reason than that he 
 was too sick and weak to keep wp ! He had made a 
 bargain with one of the guard to ride his mule a short 
 distance, for which he was to give him his only shirt ! 
 While in the act of taking it off, Salezar ordered a sol- 
 dier to shoot him. The first ball only wounded the 
 wretched man, but the second killed him instantly, and 
 he fell, with his shirt still about his face. Golpin was 
 a citizen of the United States, and reached Texas a 
 short time before the departure of the expedition. He 
 appeared to be a harmless, inoffensive man, of delicate 
 constitution, and during a greater part of the time we 
 
salezar’s care for his own comfort. 15 
 
 were upon the road, before the capture of the expedi- 
 tion, was obliged to ride in one of the wagons. The 
 brutal Salezar, rather than be troubled witli him any 
 longer, took this method of ridding himself of an encum- 
 brance ! It may be difficult, for many of my readers, 
 to believe that such an act of wanton barbarity could 
 be perpetrated by a people pretending to be civilized — 
 to be Christians ! I should certainly be loath to hazard 
 my reputation by telling the story were there not near- 
 ly two hundred witnesses of the scene. 
 
 In half an hour after the murder of Golpin, and be- 
 fore it was yet dark, we were ordered to halt for a 
 short time, the horses and mules of our guard absolute- 
 ly requiring a little rest after being constantly in mo- 
 tion for more than twenty-four hours. Had Salezar 
 consulted only the feelings of the prisoners, no halt 
 would have been called. 
 
 During the short rest now allowed us we were per- 
 mitted to lie down, but sleep was impossible. Had we 
 been granted rest during the day, when the warm sun 
 was shining over us, we might have slept, and soundly, 
 too : now, it was so cold we could but curl up close, 
 one to another, in a state of discomfort that forbade 
 sleep. At ten o’clock at night, or near that hour, we 
 were again roused and ordered to resume the march. 
 The short rest which had been granted was far from 
 restoring us to strength, far from removing the soreness 
 and stiffness from our bones : on the contrary, we were 
 now more unfitted for the gloomy march than ever. We 
 had travelled but a short half mile before we passed the 
 two wagons in which the baggage and camp equipage of 
 the Mexicans were carried. In one of these, stowed snug- 
 ly under the cotton cover, were Salezar and his lieuten- 
 ant, the redoubtable Don Jesus. They, at least, had made 
 
16 
 
 A WILD NIGHT SCENE. 
 
 themselves comfortable, and were snoring away, utter- 
 ly regardless of the sufferings around them. 
 
 About midnight we reached a part of the desert where 
 the high branches of palm had not been burned, the dra- 
 goons probably passing this section in the daytime. 
 These dry tufts were at once set on fire by the Mexicans 
 to warm their benumbed and half-frozen hands and feet. 
 We, too, crowded around them, and as one would burn 
 down to a level with the ground we rushed hurriedly to 
 the next. Our line now extended nearly a mile along 
 the road, and the blazing clumps, which flashed up like 
 powder on being ignited, gave a wild and romantic ap- 
 pearance to the scene, more especially when the dark 
 and swarthy faces of the Mexicans and the wild and 
 haggard features of our men were seen congregated 
 round the same fire. 
 
 The early hours of the morning were colder than 
 any which had preceded them, as the biting winds from 
 the mountains appeared to have a more open sweep 
 across the desert plain. The sufferings, too, of the pre- 
 vious night were increased in proportion as we had 
 less strength to endure them ; and here it should be re- 
 membered that we had had no food given us from our 
 commencement of the Dead Man’s Journey, now thir- 
 ty-six hours, and that we had been in active exercise 
 nearly the whole time. How this dreary road across 
 the waste ever obtained its congenial name is more 
 than I could learn. It certainly deserves it, more es- 
 pecially since the murders committed along its line by 
 Salezar. 
 
 That faint streak of lightish gray which heralds day- 
 light had but just appeared in the eastern horizon when 
 a man named Griffith, who had been wounded by the 
 Indians before we were taken prisoners and had not 
 
DEATH OF A PRISONER. 
 
 17 
 
 entirely recovered, gave out, and declared his inability 
 to proceed any farther. He had ridden a mule until 
 his faculties were nearly paralyzed by the cold, when 
 he jumped off and again undertook to walk. Too 
 weak, however, and too lame to travel, he sank to the 
 ground. A soldier told him to rise, or he would obey 
 the orders, given by Salezar, to put all to death who 
 could not keep up. Griffith made one feeble but inet- 
 fectual attempt. The effort was too much : he cast an 
 imploring look at the soldier, and while doing so the 
 brutal miscreant knocked his brains out with a musket ! 
 His blanket was then stripped from him, as the reward 
 of his murderer, his ears were cut off, and he was 
 thrown by the roadside, another feast for the buzzards 
 and prairie wolves ! 
 
 And how, it will be asked, did we feel while acts like 
 these — acts that leave barbarian deeds of cruelty and 
 blood far behind — were enacted in our midst? The 
 reader must understand that not one of us knew but 
 that he might be called upon as the next victim ; that 
 we were completely worn and broken down, sick and 
 dispirited. Callous, too, we had become ; and although 
 we could not look upon the horrible butchery of our 
 comrades with indifference, we still knew that any in- 
 terference on our part would bring certain death, with- 
 out in any way aiding our unfortunate friends. Inly 
 we prayed that a time might come when their death 
 could be avenged — that the damnable crimes hourly 
 enacted around us might be atoned for. There was 
 the breast of many a hero in that sorry band ; and in 
 its pent-up chamber were recorded deep vows of ven- 
 geance yet to be executed upon Armijo and his conge- 
 nial satellites. 
 
 It was not until about eight o’clock in the morning 
 
 B 2 
 
18 
 
 EXTREMITY OF SUFFERING. 
 
 that the waters of the Rio Grande, which in its course 
 had swept around the bend, a distance of more than one 
 hundred and sixty miles, were seen by those in the ad- 
 vance. With hurried and eager steps we all pressed 
 forward, for we knew that now, at least, we were to 
 have food, water, and sleep. To attempt a delineation 
 of our men as they appeared at that time were a boot- 
 less task. We had now been forty hours on the road, 
 without food or water ; in this time, although we had 
 travelled ninety miles, we had had scarcely four hours’ 
 rest; the scanty wardrobe which each man carried 
 upon his back, and which was all he possessed, had not 
 been changed since we were made prisoners, and was 
 now filled with every species of vermin known in Mex- 
 ico. Add to this the sunken, hollow cheeks, pale and 
 haggard countenances of men who had been unshaved 
 for a month, and the reader will have a faint idea of our 
 miserable aspect. 
 
 Salezar here ordered another ox killed — one that had 
 made the entire journey with us from Austin, that had 
 escaped the stampedes and Indian perils, and had borne 
 a due share of the labour of dragging our wagons across 
 the immense prairies of the West. With his former 
 masters he had suffered and been captured, and now 
 that he, too, was lame and broken down, weak and un- 
 able to travel, like them he was ordered to the sacrifice. 
 It did not seem right to make a meal of an old and tried 
 companion ; yet necessity knows no law, neither has it 
 feelings, and in three quarters of an hour after the poor 
 animal was killed he was cooked and devoured, and his 
 quondam masters were lying about on the grass fast 
 asleep. In the afternoon we were awakened and or- 
 dered to march some miles farther — to a place where 
 the animals of the guard could obtain better picking 
 
CROSS PURPOSES. 
 
 19 
 
 than at the camp where we were now lying. As we 
 were about starting, a little incident occurred in which 
 were strangely mixed the painful and the ludicrous. 
 For some trifling cause Salezar drew his sword, and 
 with the flat of it struck one of the prisoners a violent 
 blow across the shoulders. The poor fellow had only 
 learned one Spanish expression, muchas gracias — the 
 common phrase employed in New Mexico to thank a 
 person for any favour received. Thinking he must say 
 something, and not knowing anything else to say, the 
 unfortunate Texan ejaculated, “ Muchas gracias, Sehor !” 
 Another terrible whack from the sword of Salezar was 
 followed by a shrug of the shoulders and another 
 “ Many thanks, sir.” The captain was now more infu- 
 riate than ever. To be thus publicly and openly thank- 
 ed by a person upon whom he was inflicting a painful 
 punishment, he looked upon as a defiance, and he ac- 
 cordingly redoubled his blows. How long this might 
 have continued I am unable to say ; had not some of 
 the friends of the man told him to hold his tongue, Sale- 
 zar might have continued his blows until exhausted by 
 the very labour. It is astonishing with what facility 
 many of our men picked up enough Spanish to hold 
 conversation with our guard, however little advance the 
 punished individual just spoken of had made. The 
 oaths, in particular, they soon learned, and in return 
 they gave the Mexicans an insight into the many impre- 
 catory idioms with which the English abounds. It is 
 singular how much more easily men learn to swear and 
 blaspheme in any language than to pray in it. 
 
 Our march, on the day after we had finished the 
 Dead Man’s Journey, was one of unusual length and se- 
 verity ; numbers of the men giving out miles before we 
 reached our camping-ground. Salezar, as fortune or- 
 
20 
 
 A HIDEOUS SINGER. 
 
 dained it, rode in advance this day, and although the 
 rear-guard beat and mercilessly abused some of the more 
 unfortunate stragglers, they did not go so far as to take 
 their lives. One brute in particular, our more lame and 
 unfortunate companions can never forget. His name, if 
 I ever knew it, has now slipped from my memory, but 
 to recall him to the recollections of all who made the 
 gloomy journey from San Miguel to the Pass, I have 
 only to refer to the fellow who was continually annoy- 
 ing us by his harsh and most discordant efforts at sing- 
 ing. As a general thing, the lower classes of Mexico 
 have voices of rare sweetness and touching melody, 
 and often, while at San Miguel, did we listen to the lays 
 of a party of soldiers with pleasure, as, with tones har- 
 moniously blending, they sang a rude but cheerful catch 
 in praise of Santa Anna ; but the notes of this scoun- 
 drel were of the most grating nature. Continually was 
 he trotting his mule up and down the line, uttering 
 sounds which were almost demoniacal, and, as though 
 he thought it a fit accompaniment, he sought every oc- 
 casion to insult, ride over, and strike the sick and the 
 lame, the halt and the weary. Not without shuddering 
 did we hear the horrible tones of this fellow’s voice, as 
 he would approach us ; and I cannot doubt that this 
 simple mention will bring the grating sounds again 
 ringing in the ears of those who heard him, and who 
 may happen to read this chapter. 
 
 Some of the poor prisoners parted with their shoes 
 and shirts, and in many cases even with their blankets, 
 in payment for a ride of a few_ miles — the unfeeling 
 owners of the animals ever ready to take advantage of 
 such as were unable to walk. In some few instances 
 men were found among the Mexicans who had human- 
 ity enough to take up some unfortunate Texan and 
 
HOW TO HIDE GOLD. 
 
 21 
 
 carry him a few miles ; but those instances were ex- 
 tremely rare. 
 
 It was pitchy dark when we reached our halting- 
 place this night, a grove of cotton-woods within thirty 
 miles of El Paso del Norte, and so tired were the men' 
 that a majority of them sank supperless upon the ground, 
 too weak to cook the scanty ration of meal which was 
 distributed among them. 
 
 We had been but a few moments in this camp before 
 Van Ness, with whom Salezar intrusted many of his 
 secrets, informed Falconer and myself that the mis- 
 creant intended to search us all the next day : he sus- 
 pected, from many little circumstances, that there was 
 still no inconsiderable sum of money among the wretch- 
 ed prisoners, and if his suspicions were true, he deter- 
 mined to gain possession of it. 
 
 Knowing, full well, that his search would extend to 
 every portion of our tattered vestments, making it im- 
 possible to hide our valuables about our persons, we 
 now tasked our wits to devise some scheme wherewith 
 to cheat Salezar of his anticipated plunder. Various 
 plans were revolved in our minds, but dismissed as not 
 feasible, until finally I bethought me of one which prom- 
 ised success even though the search should prove ever 
 so rigorous. It was to make a small batch of cakes 
 with a quantity of meal we had in a bag, the cakes to 
 be seasoned with our doubloons and such other gold 
 pieces as we had in our possession. This plan was 
 adopted at once, and in an hour, one kneading the dough 
 and forming the cakes, while the other watched the sen- 
 tinel on duty to see that he did not discover our trick, 
 we had our money all carefully baked with the excep- 
 tion of a few dollars. The latter we carried openly in 
 our pockets to avoid suspicion, and for its loss we cared 
 
22 
 
 MORE OF SALEZAR’S RASCALITY. 
 
 but little so that the main amount was saved. My gold 
 watch and chain I gave to Van Ness, who carefully fold- 
 ed them in his cravat and tied them about his neck. As 
 the prisoners had frequently made their meal into cakes 
 of similar size and appearance, we had full confidence 
 of outwitting the avaricious scoundrel should he make 
 his threatened search. 
 
 On resuming our march the next morning, Salezar 
 left the oxen which had been furnished for our suste- 
 nance on the road, and of which sixteen were still left, 
 behind him : with the oxen he also left some thirty 
 horses and mules, animals then in possession of his 
 guard, but which, it was afterward ascertained, had 
 been either stolen from the inhabitants of El Paso by 
 their present owners themselves, or purchased from the 
 Apaches with the full knowledge that they had been 
 stolen. This bit of rascality arranged satisfactorily by 
 Salezar, and a small guard being left behind to herd the 
 animals out of sight of the main road, we were again on 
 the move.* About sunset we arrived at an encamp- 
 ment directly in the mouth of the gorge through which 
 the Rio Grande has forced a passage — the well-known 
 gap in the mountains called by the Mexicans El Paso 
 del Norte, or the Pass of the North, and within eight 
 miles of the large town of El Paso. 
 
 * The pack mule which Salezar took from me, at the time of our arrest, 
 he frequently rode upon the journey between San Miguel and El Paso. She 
 was a strong, powerful animal, but an extremely hard one to ride, having, in 
 addition to a trick of throwing people over her head, a jolting and most uneasy 
 and unsteady trot. To show the cool effrontery of Dimasio, he complained, 
 on several occasions, of the gait of the animal, and said that he was disap- 
 pointed in her ! It is generally considered indelicate to “ look a gift horse in 
 the mouth,” or allude to any little faults he may possess ; I do not see why the 
 same rule should not apply to a stolen mule. That she might take the whim 
 to throw Salezar over her head, as had frequently been her wont when her ri- 
 ders were Americans, was a result I am frank enough to say I hoped for ; but 
 I could never learn that she indulged in any of her old tricks while in the 
 hands of her new master. 
 
A SPLENDID SUNSET. 
 
 23 
 
 I have said that the sun was about setting when we 
 arrived at our camping-ground : that luminary lacked 
 some half hour yet of his going down, and never have I 
 seen him sink below the western horizon with such a 
 glow of splendour and magnificence around him as on 
 that occasion. Immediately in front of us, running near- 
 ly north and south, rose a chain of frowning mountains, 
 through which, although at the time we could not tell 
 how or where, the Rio Grande has forced its way. The 
 table-land on which we stood reached far as the eye 
 could see to the west. Those who have watched the 
 sun in his setting, may have fancied that on approach- 
 ing near his apparent resting-place he drops, as it were, 
 several feet at a time, then lingers stationary for a mo- 
 ment, then drops towards his nightly retreat again, as if 
 hurrying to finish his day’s work and reach his evening 
 couch of rest. So it was on this occasion, and from 
 some peculiarity in the atmosphere the broad face of 
 the god of day appeared of deeper yet more subdued 
 red, and of four times its ordinary size. The evening 
 air was of a most wooing temperature — mild and bland. 
 The eastern sky received a reflection of softened yet 
 golden lustre, while the mountain sides were clothed 
 with a gorgeous but mellow atmosphere, and the shad- 
 ows sent among the frowning clefts by the last rays of 
 the setting sun were softened and suffused by the uni- 
 versal glow. While contemplating the lovely scene, 
 and lost to all around me in admiration of its rare and 
 almost holy beauty, I was suddenly aroused by the re- 
 port that a poor fellow named Gates was dying in one 
 of the wagons. He had taken a severe cold the night 
 we were all penned in the two small rooms, and inflam- 
 mation of the lungs had ensued ; and now, without med- 
 icine, without the kind offices of relations, without the 
 
24 
 
 A BRUTAL MEXICAN. 
 
 thousand charities and home-comforts that are not to be 
 found in such a wo-worn band as ours, he was dying, 
 and among those who would deny him even the last sad 
 rites of sepulture ! 
 
 On looking towards the wagon in which the unfortu- 
 nate man was lying, it was evident he had but a few 
 moments to live : there was a glassy wildness in his 
 eye, a slight rattle and convulsive throe about his neck, 
 which too plainly denoted that his sufferings were soon 
 to terminate. At such a time as this it would hardly 
 seem credible that one could be found, clothed in the 
 outward semblance of humanity, fiendish enough to in- 
 fiict farther pain and anguish upon his fellow-being : yet 
 such was the fact, and a case of more heartless cruelty 
 up to this time probably stands not on record. 
 
 Gates retained his senses, and had just asked one of 
 his comrades, in weak and broken accents, for a cup ot 
 water. He had scarcely swallowed it ere a young 
 Mexican, who went by the name of Ramon, took up an 
 empty musket standing by the wagon, and after wan- 
 tonly pointing it directly in the face of the dying man, 
 snapped it ! The latter, unconscious whether the mus- 
 ket was loaded or not, raised his hands convulsively to 
 his face and shrunk instinctively back. The wretch, 
 apparently enjoying the torture he was thus indicting, 
 again pointed and snapped the gun. This was too 
 much for one who was already wrestling with death. 
 He gave one shudder, his limbs relaxed, and all was 
 over ! He was instantly dragged from the wagon by 
 our merciless guard, his ears were cut off by order of 
 Salezar, and the body was thrown by the roadside 
 
 “ a stiffen’d corse, 
 
 Stretch’d out and bleaching in the northern blast !” 
 
 On the morning succeeding this revolting act of 
 
ARRIVAL AT EL PASO, 
 
 25 
 
 cruelty, which was the 5th of November, we started 
 upon our last march under the detestable Salezar. Two 
 or three miles above El Paso, and immediately on the 
 eastern base of the ridge of mountains, we were obliged 
 to ford the Rio Grande at a fall. The river was waist, 
 and in some places even chin deep, the bottom uneven 
 and rocky, while the cold current of water ran with 
 such force that we were obliged to hold each other by 
 the hand in strings to prevent being washed down the 
 stream and drowned. Chilled completely through, and 
 with feet cut and bruised by the sharp and jagged rocks, 
 we were finally fortunate in making the passage, the 
 rear-guard upon their mules and horses whipping and 
 swearing at the lame and weak stragglers of our party 
 who scarcely had strength to buffet with the swift-run- 
 ning stream. 
 
 Once safely across, we were ordered to form in sec- 
 tions of four, while the guard paraded in regular order 
 on either side. The last command of Salezar, before 
 galloping forward to give notice of our arrival, was to 
 shoot the Texans who should leave the position in the 
 ranks assigned them ! In this order, and with this last 
 threat hanging over us, we were marched into the 
 beautiful and romantic town or city of El Paso. 
 
 Our feelings, on entering this town, it is almost im- 
 possible to describe. On the route from San Miguel we 
 had been regaled, by our guard, with innumerable tales 
 of the ill-treatment we might expect on reaching the 
 Pass, and also with speculations as to our ultimate fate. 
 Some said that we should be marched by the nearest road 
 to Matamoros, and thence shipped to the United States 
 or Texas; others, again, gave it as their decided opin- 
 ion that we should be shot, so soon as orders could be 
 received from Santa Anna. As to the two latter opin- 
 Vol. II.— C 
 
26 
 
 TOKENS OF BETTER TREATMENT. 
 
 ions, we gave no credit to either of them ; as to our 
 being treated worse by the inhabitants of the lower 
 country than we had been by the New Mexicans, that 
 we knew could not be, as Salezar had taxed his inge- 
 nuity to the utmost in devising means to harass and tor- 
 ture us. Still, our feelings were sensitively alive as the 
 time rapidly approached when we were to be placed 
 under new masters, and our minds unusually active in 
 speculations upon our future lot. 
 
 As we turned the corner of a street leading into the 
 principal plaza, we saw one of our companions, who had 
 left San Miguel the morning before us, standing upon a 
 distant housetop. Another turn, and Doctor Whittaker, 
 with two or three Texan officers, was seen standing by 
 a small bridge thrown across one of the irrigating ca- 
 nals which traverse this pleasant town in every direc- 
 tion. They appeared to have the liberty of parole, if 
 nothing more, were clean shaved and neatly enough 
 dressed, and bore every appearance of having fallen 
 into kinder hands, and to have received infinitely better 
 treatment than had fallen to our lot. 
 
 In a few minutes more, in presence of the alcalde and 
 other officers, we were marched into a large yard, hav- 
 ing rooms on every side, and then, after being counted, 
 consigned to the keeping of a new guard. Shrewd and 
 close observers of physiognomy had we all become by 
 this time — we looked at the countenances of those who 
 were now over us, and a single glance sufficed to assure 
 us that we might expect better treatment ; nor were we 
 disappointed. 
 
 In two hours after our arrival, and without the most 
 remote expectation of any such good fortune, the Tex- 
 an prisoners found themselves, in squads of six or eight, 
 billeted about at the different houses of the inhabitants, 
 
REST FOR THE WEARY. 
 
 27 
 
 and feasting upon the best the place afforded. Well- 
 cooked meats, eggs, the finest bread, and in many cases 
 even the wines of the place were served out to them, and 
 in an abundance to which for months they had been 
 strangers. From the different doors and windows they 
 could see small knots of their late guard passing and re- 
 passing ; and with the recollection of their recent bru- 
 tal treatment fresh within them, they did, in the fulness 
 of their hearts, heap upon their former insolent and over- 
 bearing, but now craven and powerless enemies, all 
 the Spanish terms of indignity and reproach they had 
 learned while in their company, mixed with good hearty 
 curses in the vernacular whenever they ran out of for- 
 eign objurgations. 
 
 In the mean time, Falconer, Van Ness, and myself 
 were taken to the house of the commandant of this 
 military department, Don J. M. Elias Gonzalez, or, as 
 he was generally termed, General Elias, a well-bred, 
 liberal, and gentlemanly officer. No sooner had he 
 been made acquainted with the conduct of Salezar, 
 than he expressed great indignation ; and as our men 
 had suffered so much from want of food and excessive 
 fatigue, he at once said they should be allowed three 
 days’ rest to recruit and strengthen. 
 
 The family of General Elias consisted of his prima, 
 or first cousin, a portly, handsome, and good-hearted 
 lady, some forty years of age, who attended to his 
 household affairs, and a w r ell-educated young nephew, 
 on a visit from Sonora. His name was Don Jesus,* 
 and to him we were all under obligations for repeated 
 acts of kindness and attention. Captain Francisco 
 Ochoa, said to have been an aid-de-camp of the Em- 
 
 No relation to our old acquaintance of New Mexican memory, but a dif 
 ferent personage altogether. 
 
28 
 
 A CONTRAST. 
 
 peror Iturbide, was also a guest at the house — a good- 
 humoured, laughing, and dashing officer of some forty 
 years of age, although at first view he seemed much 
 younger. Ochoa was frank and soldierlike in his bear- 
 ing, expressed the greatest abhorrence of Salezar and 
 his herd of ladrones and picaros* as he called them, 
 and in travelling with us some five or six hundred miles, 
 ever proved himself a friend and a gentleman. 
 
 About five o’clock in the afternoon a servant brought 
 us in cakes and chocolate, the latter of the richest qual- 
 ity and most delicious flavour. At eight o’clock Gen- 
 eral McLeod and Mr. Navarro, who took all their meals 
 with our generous host, arrived, when we immediately 
 sat down to a well-arranged and sumptuous supper. 
 It was the first table We had seen for five months — so 
 with the chairs. What a contrast ! On that very 
 morning, and within twenty yards of the spot where 
 the body of the unfortunate Gates was lying, Falconer, 
 Van Ness, and myself had hastily swallowed a meal 
 of badly-made mush, upon the ground, our minds full 
 of misgivings as to the treatment we might receive on 
 getting out of the hands of Salezar — now we were 
 seated at a table covered with luxuries, the guests of 
 a gentleman attentive to our every want. Even the fact 
 that we were still prisoners was forgotten. 
 
 As the mind of the reader wanders back through 
 the gloomy vista of the preceding five months, it will 
 find but few bright spots for the memory to linger upon. 
 During that time we had been living “ out of doors” — 
 the ground, whether wet or dry, warm or cold, our only 
 bed — the sky, whether blue or black, clear or cloudy, 
 our only canopy. For weeks, I might almost say 
 
 * Loafers, scoundrels, thieves — the terms mean anything and everything 
 opprobrious. 
 
SUMPTUOUS FARE. 
 
 2& 
 
 months, previous to our capture, we had lived upon an 
 allowance which barely saved us from starvation, and 
 even this small pittance of food was more fitting the 
 mouths of prairie wolves than human beings. After 
 our capture, in addition to the cruel insults and indigni- 
 ties that were heaped upon us, we were fed and driven 
 along our involuntary pilgrimage under treatment that 
 would have claimed the intervention of civil laws if in- 
 flicted upon droves of cattle, sheep, or hogs in a civil- 
 ized land. Let the reader recollect these facts, and he 
 will not marvel that our hearts were now rejoiced with- 
 in us, prisoners though we were, on once more finding 
 ourselves in the midst of plenty and treated as men. 
 But our supper is getting cold, and as it is the first we 
 have had for nearly half a year, we must commence 
 upon it. 
 
 It consisted of a variety of dishes, all well cooked, 
 and, but that some of them may have been seasoned 
 rather too highly with red pepper, garlic, or onions for 
 Anglo-Saxon tastes, all extremely palatable. And here 
 were veritable chairs, knives and forks, plates, tumblers, 
 and the many appurtenances of a supper-table — we had 
 not entirely forgotten their uses, as the cook of our 
 kind host could testify. The vino del pais, or wine of 
 the country, too, was placed before us, of a quality far 
 from inferior, and in the greatest profusion. The in- 
 habitants of El Paso, or many of them, drink it from 
 tumblers of the largest size, and in quantities which 
 would startle a Frenchman over his claret, or a New- 
 England farmer over his cider — I have reference, in 
 speaking of the latter, to times before the establishment 
 of temperance societies and root beer associations. 
 Supper over, some two hours were spent in smoking 
 and conversation, when we retired to bed. 
 
 C 2 
 
30 
 
 AN UNWONTED LUXURY. 
 
 Here was another comfort which for months we had 
 not enjoyed — had almost forgotten — and for a long 
 time we could not close our eyes in sleep, so novel was 
 the luxury. We were under a roof. Our beds were 
 of the very best — sheets as white as the driven snow, 
 and pillow-cases neatly fringed and of the finest linen. 
 We kicked, tossed, and rolled about for hours ; and our 
 various antics, some of them ludicrous enough, might be 
 likened to the feats of tumblers in a ring. Sleep finally 
 overtook us, nor was it broken until a little before sun- 
 rise, when a neat and pretty girl brought us in cakes 
 and chocolate. Without his chocolate in the morning, 
 the Mexican gentleman would be miserable all day. 
 
 After partaking of our chocolate, we arose refreshed 
 and invigorated, and with feelings very different from 
 those of the previous morning. At nine o’clock we had 
 breakfast, consisting of some five or six courses, with 
 wine, but no coffee. At two dinner was served, late in 
 the afternoon we again had chocolate and cakes, and at 
 eight o’clock supper. I have been thus particular in 
 giving the number and order of our meals to show 
 the difference between the customs there and in this 
 country. 
 
 Although meats may be seen in profusion, at both 
 breakfast and supper, on the table of the Mexican gen 
 tleman in the northern and middle departments of the 
 Republic, the principal and most substantial meal, as 
 with us, is the dinner. The meal generally commences 
 with mutton soup or broth — then comes a dish of boiled 
 mutton, frequently followed by a stew of the same meat. 
 A favourite dish with the Mexicans in the State of Chi- 
 huahua is made of the blood of sheep, fried and season- 
 ed, which is very palatable. Chickens and eggs, cook- 
 ed in different wavs, but the former never roasted as 
 
MEXICAN SMOKERS. 
 
 31 
 
 wrth us, make their appearance during the meal. A 
 standing article is the chile guisado, mention of which 
 I have already made in a former chapter. Frijoles* 
 a species of dark beans of large size, stewed or fried in 
 mutton fat and not too highly seasoned, wind up the 
 substantial part of a dinner, breakfast, or supper, and 
 seldom is this favourite and national dish omitted. In 
 fact, frijoles, especially to the lower order of Mexicans, 
 are what potatoes are to the Irish — they can live very 
 well so long as they have them in abundance, and are 
 lost without them. A failure of the bean crop in Mex- 
 ico would be looked upon as a national calamity. 
 
 Among the higher order of Mexicans the dinner fin- 
 ishes with fruits, dulces or sweetmeats, and the never- 
 failing paper or shuck cigar. In the southern depart- 
 ment these cigars are manufactured of tobacco, neatly 
 rolled in paper, put up in bunches, and then sold at a 
 low price ; but in the States of Chihuahua, Sonora, and 
 New Mexico, and more particularly the latter, every 
 man is provided with a small pouch of punche, a spe- 
 cies of plant somewhat resembling tobacco, for the cul- 
 tivation of the latter is specially prohibited except in 
 some of the southern departments. In another pouch 
 or case he carries a parcel of corn husks, and a flint and 
 steel. With these materials he makes his cigarrito, 
 strikes a fire, and smokes almost incessantly. Women 
 and men are alike addicted to the practice, and the pret- 
 tiest sehora in the land can be seen at almost any time 
 with a cigarrito in her mouth, the smoke puffing from 
 her nose in two straight volumes, somewhat resembling 
 the escape pipes of a double-engine steamer on a small 
 scale. It may be thought singular, however, that the 
 
 * Pronounced freeholeys by the Mexicans. From the similarity in the pro- 
 nunciation, our men always called them freeholders. 
 
32 
 
 SALEZAR IN TROUBLE. 
 
 children of either sex are not addicted to smoking. It 
 appears to be a habit taken up after the person has at- 
 tained full growth, and when once contracted is never 
 abandoned. 
 
 On the afternoon after our arrival at El Paso, and 
 while we were drinking wine and partaking of a truly 
 sumptuous dinner at the table of the commandante, the 
 notorious Salezar entered the room, the object of his 
 visit being to render an account of his stewardship in 
 relation to the Texan prisoners... He appeared struck 
 with mute astonishment, as his eye glanced in the direc- 
 tion of our table, at seeing those whom he had so re- 
 cently treated like brutes now in such excellent quar- 
 ters and associating with an officer infinitely above him ; 
 and there was an air of sneaking and cowardly inqui- 
 etude about the monster as he opened his business with 
 General Elias. 
 
 He began by saying that Governor Armijo had in- 
 trusted him with the charge of guarding a certain num- 
 ber of men from San Miguel to El Paso ; that he had 
 turned over the whole number with the exception of 
 five, who had unfortunately died upon the road ; and 
 to prove that they had really died, and had not escaped, 
 he had brought their ears, at the same time throwing 
 upon the table five pairs of them which he had strung 
 upon a strip of buckskin ! General Elias at once told 
 him that he had murdered, basely murdered, three of 
 these men. The miscreant denied this charge, at the 
 same time turning a black look in the direction where 
 we were quietly smoking. He said that he was a brave 
 man, and that when he was in the advance his master, 
 Armijo, could always sleep in quiet and security. The 
 commandante coolly told him that the business before 
 them had nothing to do with his personal prowess and 
 
SALEZAR ARRESTED. 
 
 33 
 
 bravery, or with the estimation in which Armijo held 
 him ; they were talking of three men whom he had 
 cruelly put to death for no crime. Salezar, finding that 
 his superior officer had abundant proof of the facts, 
 made no farther denial ; but he turned upon Van Ness 
 a look of bitter hatred, for he had treated him with so 
 much kindness and consideration upon the road that he 
 supposed in him, at least, he would find a defender. 
 Van Ness had very properly informed General Elias 
 of every circumstance that had occurred upon the road, 
 and the cunning Salezar, now seeing that he had no 
 one to defend him, made no farther denials. 
 
 The commandante next told Salezar that there were 
 sixteen head of cattle, honestly belonging to the Texan 
 prisoners, which had been left some thirty or forty 
 miles back upon the road. This was a thunderbolt to 
 the scoundrel, for he had fondly hoped to secure these 
 cattle as his own plunder. With a twitch of the shoul- 
 ders he began to stammer forth some excuse or denial ; 
 but he was cut short by General Elias, who all the 
 while preserved his temper, with the remark that there 
 were also a number of horses and mules left at the 
 same camp, which he had strong reasons to believe 
 w'ere the property of some of the citizens of El Paso. 
 At all events they must be immediately sent for — cat- 
 tle, horses, and all — and until they were all brought in, 
 and their brands and marks examined, Captain Dimasio 
 Salezar must consider himself under arrest. The scoun- 
 drel gave us another scowl of mingled hatred and re- 
 venge at the conclusion of this interview, and then 
 skulked from the room, an abject, pitiful wretch. 
 
34 
 
 AN ESTIMABLE PRIEST. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Ramon Ortiz, the young Cura of El Paso. — His Benevolence. — A pleasant 
 Ride with the Cura. — Description of El Paso. — Its irrigating Canals, 
 Streets, and Fruits. — Residence of Ortiz. — Farther Acts of his Kindness. 
 — A comfortable Change of Linen.— An Opportunity to vex Salezar im- 
 proved. — Last Encounter with that Miscreant. — Arrival of a Courier from 
 Mexico. — Departure from El Paso. — Hospitality of the Inhabitants. — 
 Parting with Ortiz. — Inquiries respecting General Pike. — A Camp with- 
 out Water. — Ochoa’s Attention to our Wants. — Description of our Escort 
 and Procession.— Mexican Carts and Mexican Character.— Opposition of 
 the Inhabitants to Improvements. — Another dry Camp. — Arrival at the 
 “ Diamond of the Desert,” a noted Spring. — A Rest. — Difficult Passage of 
 the Sand Mountains. — Appearance of the Country. — A travelling Stone : 
 its strange History. — Superstitions of the Mexicans. — The “Well of the 
 Star.” — Poor and sandy Country. — Appearance of the Texan Prisoners. 
 — Strange Variety of Costume. — Laughing at Misery. 
 
 Among the daily visiters at the house of General 
 Elias was the young and generous cura of El Paso, 
 Ramon Ortiz, to whom I was particularly indebted for 
 many attentions, and whose acts of disinterested kind- 
 ness to all the prisoners it is impossible to forget. The 
 young priest could not be more than twenty-five years 
 of age, and was of a mild and benevolent countenance 
 — in short, there was an open and ingenuous expression 
 in his really handsome face that at once endeared him 
 to every one. For some cause or other he was unre- 
 mitting in his attentions to me, continually seeking op- 
 portunities to do some delicate act of kindness, which, 
 by the manner of its bestowal, showed that he possess- 
 ed all the more refined feelings of our nature. 
 
 On one occasion he asked me if I would not be 
 pleased to see the town and visit him at his residence, 
 some mile or two distant from the house of General 
 Elias. On my accepting his invitation, he sent a ser- 
 
AN AGREEABLE VISIT. 
 
 35 
 
 vant for one of his horses for my use. The servant 
 soon returned with a noble animal, richly caparisoned, 
 and the young cura mounting his mule, we rode over 
 the beautiful town. 
 
 The situation of El Paso is delightful. Seated in a 
 beautiful and fertile valley, a circle of mountains on its 
 northern and western sides break off and neutralize the 
 cold winds which sweep from the snowy summits in 
 the region of Santa Fe. The thoroughfares of the 
 town are for the most part wide and airy, and on either 
 side runs a cool and rippling stream of transparent wa- 
 ter, brought from the Rio Grande by means of irriga 
 ting canals, so that it can at any time be turned upon 
 the vineyards or grain-fields when the land requires it. 
 These delicious streams are shaded by rows of large, 
 overarching trees, planted with great regularity, while 
 the plain but neat dwellings of the inhabitants are, many 
 of them, built among clusters of apple and other fruit- 
 trees. The cultivation of the vine, with the manufac- 
 ture of wine and raisins, appears to be a source of 
 no inconsiderable profit to the inhabitants, who, take 
 them as a body, are more honest, industrious, cleanly, 
 and better disposed towards foreigners than those of 
 any town of equal size I passed through in my long 
 journey. 
 
 Arrived at the residence of my kind friend, a neat 
 dwelling surrounded by fruit-trees and vines, he called 
 a servant to take charge of the animals, and at once led 
 the way to the interior. Here I found Captain Cald- 
 well and a number of our officers, comfortably enjoying 
 the hospitalities of the young priest, and loud in their 
 praises of his kind attentions and exceeding liberality : 
 for they had all been provided with neat and clean cloth- 
 ing by their charitable entertainer. 
 
36 
 
 RARE GENEROSITY. 
 
 To myself he was even more unremitting in his offi- 
 ces of attention and kindness. He asked me to write 
 my name, and then give the correct pronunciation of it, 
 after which he gave me his own on a strip of paper. 
 Fortunately for me, when first captured I had been able 
 to secrete a valuable gold pen, neatly encased in silver, 
 which also served as a handle, and this I at once pre- 
 sented to the cura. He at first was reluctant to accept 
 the pen, fearing that I might be in want of it, but on be- 
 ing assured that it was of no real service to me, he re- 
 ceived it with new protestations of friendship. 
 
 During a visit of some two hours, young Ortiz ap- 
 peared to be studying my every want. In addition to 
 an excellent dinner, with wine of his own making, which 
 he gave me, he invited me into his private study, where 
 a bath was provided. Hardly had I partaken of this 
 luxury, before a girl brought me clean flannel and linen 
 throughout — and when I say that for the previous seven 
 weeks I had had no change of clothing, and that the 
 vermin which infest the lower orders of Mexico had ta- 
 ken forcible possession of all my ragged and dirty vest- 
 ments, the luxury of once more arraying myself in 
 clean linen will be appreciated. But the liberality of 
 Ortiz did not stop here, for, notwithstanding I told him 
 I had a sufficiency, and obstinately refused taking it until 
 farther resistance would have been rude and almost in- 
 sulting, he still pressed a sum of money into my hands. 
 It was carefully wrapped in paper, and the amount I did 
 not at the time know. From its weight I knew, how- 
 ever, that it was specie, and hence my extreme reluc- 
 tance to receive it at his hands. He may have thought 
 it an imperative duty thus to press it upon my accept- 
 ance, in order to cancel the obligation he evidently con- 
 sidered himself under for the pen I had presented him. 
 
AVARICE ITS OWN PUNISHMENT. 
 
 37 
 
 Towards sunset, the cura having ordered the same 
 horse to be again saddled for me, we left his quiet and 
 hospitable mansion for the residence of General Elias ; 
 and if I before had reason to thank Ortiz for his kind- 
 ness, I soon had still greater cause of gratitude for the 
 opportunity he gave me, although unintentional on his 
 part, of repaying, with interest, the many instalments of 
 indignity and abuse I had received at the hands of Sa- 
 lezar — in short, of making this latter person completely 
 and perfectly unhappy. 
 
 Prominent among the vicious traits of Salezar was 
 his insatiable avarice. In the leather panniers which 
 contained my clothing, when we were taken prisoners, 
 he found three or four pairs of heavily-gilt spurs, arti- 
 cles which I had purchased in New-Orleans as presents 
 to such Mexicans as might show me attentions on my 
 journey through that country. These spurs he had sold 
 for a mere song, as they were of a pattern different from 
 those used in New Mexico, and as he suppposed their 
 real value trifling. A telescope which he had taken 
 from Mr. Falconer, and which was an instrument of 
 great value, he had parted with for a few dollars — not 
 one tenth, perhaps, of its first cost. 
 
 On the road from San Miguel he had spoken of these 
 articles to one of my comrades, and mentioned the prices 
 he had received for them. Out of pure hatred to the 
 wretch, and from a desire to vex and goad him, my 
 friend expressed great surprise that Salezar had parted 
 with them, and more especially the spurs, at such a sac- 
 rifice — said they were of pure gold and extremely rich 
 workmanship, and that they would have been worth 
 twenty times the sum he received for them, to melt 
 down. 
 
 This story fretted and chafed the avaricious wretch 
 
 Vol. II.— D 
 
38 
 
 A PLOT. 
 
 excessively. He ground his teeth for being such a fool, 
 and with an oath promised that should a similar oppor- 
 tunity to plunder offer itself, he would make more money 
 out of it than he had done in the present instance. In 
 fact, nothing could exceed his rage, and he vented deep 
 imprecations upon himself for allowing such golden op- 
 portunities to escape with comparatively so little gain. 
 So much by way of episode — I will now relate the man- 
 ner in which Ortiz helped me to punish Salezar. 
 
 While at the cura’s house he had told me that what- 
 ever jewelry I had saved I might now wear or expose 
 openly, as there was no farther danger of my being 
 robbed — I was now out of the hands of the picaros of 
 New Mexico, and would find officers on the route to 
 the capital who were gentlemen, and who would not 
 take my private or personal property. With these as- 
 surances, and to show that I had implicit confidence in 
 his words, I immediately displayed about my person, 
 rather ostentatiously, perhaps, a valuable breastpin, to- 
 gether with the gold watch and chain which I had kept 
 hid from the searching eyes of the greedy Salezar. 
 
 After leaving the house of the cura we rode leisurely 
 along until we reached the principal plaza, taking a dif- 
 ferent route from that which we had travelled in the 
 morning. Almost the first person I saw, on entering 
 the plaza, was the detestable Salezar, standing in front 
 of a small tienda, or store, and conversing with some of 
 his officers. Here was an opportunity to show the fel- 
 low that I had outwitted him, and I determined that it 
 should not slip by unimproved. Telling Ortiz that I 
 wished to purchase a handkerchief, or some trifling ar- 
 ticle, he kindly held my horse while I dismounted. As 
 I walked directly towards the little knot of our former 
 oppressors I placed a hand in each pocket of my panta- 
 
REVENGE ON SALEZAR. 
 
 39 
 
 loons, which were now tolerably well filled with the 
 doubloons and other gold pieces I had taken from the 
 cakes after reaching El Paso. Grasping as many of 
 them as I could in either hand, I let them drop jingling 
 to the bottom of my pockets w T hen within five yards of 
 Salezar, and so that he could plainly hear them. The 
 sound, I am confident, entered his soul. When imme- 
 diately in front of the avaricious wretch I gave as loud 
 and as important a “ hem ” as I was able, and then, with 
 a consequential swagger, and as much ostentation as I 
 could assume, drew forth my gold watch, as if to as- 
 certain the time. I gave the fellow one glance and was 
 satisfied. His face was a perfect index to the workings 
 of his selfish mind, and with a pleasure, malicious per- 
 haps, I watched it. That he would not close his eyes 
 in sleep that night I felt confident, so well I knew his 
 nature. No punishment I could inflict would have been 
 so severe. That black scowl, so full of hatred, avarice, 
 and all the worst feelings of the human heart ! — to me it 
 was “ a receipt in full” for all the indignities and inju- 
 ries I had received at his hands — that look, so full of 
 rage, baffled desire, and unsated avarice, more than paid 
 for the property of which he had stripped me, and the 
 many cruelties he had inflicted upon myself and friends. 
 
 After this last and most gratifying interview with Sa- 
 lezar, for I have never seen him since, I remounted my 
 horse, and with Ortiz rode to my quarters at the house 
 of General Elias. I more than half suspected that my 
 young friend was aware of my object in thus “ showing 
 off” before Salezar ; but not a word did he say. 
 
 During my visit to the house of the cura, a courier 
 had arrived from Mexico. The only news that in the 
 least interested us was a mention made of the departure 
 of Colonel Cooke and Dr. Brenham, with the first party, 
 
40 
 
 MORE GENEROSITY. 
 
 from Chihuahua, and a report that they had been weil 
 treated on the road. 
 
 About noon, the next day, we took our departure from 
 El Paso. As we were on the point of leaving the house 
 of General Elias, to join the main party, the servant of 
 young Ortiz arrived with a horse, saddle, and bridle for 
 my use as far as Chihuahua, a distance of nearly three 
 hundred miles. Of this most unexpected charity I had 
 not before received the least intimation ; nor did the lib- 
 erality of the incomparable cura end here. He order- 
 ed his domestics to bake two or three cart-loads of ex- 
 cellent bread for the use of the prisoners on the road, 
 and sent his own teams of oxen to transport it. To 
 those who were most in need he gave articles of com- 
 fortable clothing, and imitating the charitable example 
 of their pastor, the citizens were very liberal in their 
 gifts. Mrs. Stevenson, the wife of an American mer- 
 chant who was absent at the time, was unceasing in her 
 acts of kindness. Although a Mexican by birth, and not 
 understanding a word of our language, she was inde- 
 fatigable in her exertions to procure clothing, provisions, 
 and necessaries for our comfort and subsistence on the 
 road. 
 
 The entire population of El Paso — men, women, and 
 children — turned out to see us off; General Elias sent 
 his nephew, the young Don Jesus, with his own private 
 carriage for the accommodation of General McLeod, 
 and Messrs. Navarro, Falconer, and Van Ness, as far 
 as Chihuahua. A very gentlemanly man, Colonel Mo- 
 rales, provided several of our officers with mules to the 
 same city, and his example was followed by others 
 whose names I have now forgotten. General Elias 
 himself, accompanied by the cura and several of the 
 wealthier and more respectable inhabitants, rode some 
 
FAREWELL TO EL PASO. 
 
 41 
 
 distance with us, and after expressing the hope that we 
 might arrive safely at the city of Mexico and be speed- 
 ily liberated, bade us an affectionate farewell. Seldom 
 have I parted from a friend with more real regret than 
 with Ortiz, and as I shook him by the hand for the last 
 time, and bade him, perhaps, an eternal adieu, I thought 
 if ever a noble heart beat in man it was in the breast of 
 this young, generous, and liberal priest. Professing a 
 different religion from mine, and one, too, that I had 
 been taught to believe, at least in Mexico, inculcated a 
 jealous intolerance towards those of any other faith, I 
 could expect from him neither favour nor regard. How 
 surprised was I, then, to find him liberal to a fault, con- 
 stant in his attentions, and striving to make my situation 
 as agreeable as the circumstances would admit. I can 
 never hope for an opportunity to repay all his kindness 
 to me, and must content myself with this simple tribute 
 to his worth. His charity and his manly virtues adorn 
 the faith which he professes and illustrates by his life ; 
 and should this page ever meet his eye, let it assure him 
 of the deep respect and reverence with which the moral 
 excellence of the pious cura of El Paso inspired more 
 than one Protestant American. 
 
 Almost the only place in Mexico I turned my back upon 
 with anything like regret was the lovely town or city of 
 El Paso. Its delightful situation in a quiet and secluded 
 valley, its rippling artificial brooks, its shady streets, its 
 teeming and luxurious vineyards, its dry, pure air and 
 mild climate, and, above all, its kind and hospitable in- 
 habitants, all held me to the spot by their endearing ties. 
 What its population may be I have not the means of 
 ascertaining, neither can I give the extent of the fertile 
 valley in which it is situated ; but if I may be allowed 
 to make a rough estimate, I should put down the number 
 
 D 2 
 
42 
 
 CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. 
 
 of inhabitants at from five to seven thousand, and the 
 settled portions of the valley at some eight or ten miles 
 in length by from one to three in width.* With the 
 single exception of the little walled town of Carazal, 
 which is rapidly depopulating, there is scarcely even a 
 rancho, or small farm, within hundreds of miles of El 
 Paso — Socorro being the nearest town north, while the 
 city of Chihuahua is the first settlement as the traveller 
 journeys southward. Far removed from neighbours, the 
 rural inhabitants of Paso have made a garden, an oasis, 
 as it were, in the midst of a desert, and appear to have 
 been in a great measure uncontaminated by association 
 with the world beyond. We here found several fam- 
 ilies of Castilian blood, unmixed with even a shade of 
 the Indian — and we found them liberal, gentlemanly, 
 and of most courteous address, although born on the 
 spot, and having had the advantages neither of travel 
 nor association. Even the very lowest of the popula- 
 tion — and here we saw little of that squalid poverty 
 which characterizes almost every town in Mexico — 
 even the poorest of the inhabitants treated us with re- 
 spect and kindness, insulting neither our religion, our 
 country, nor our unfortunate position. Sui-ely, not one 
 of the Texan prisoners can ever think of El Paso, or the 
 dwellers therein, without lively gratitude. 
 
 Our first day’s march, on leaving this place, was 
 short, bringing us to the last well or spring of sweet 
 water we were to find before reaching a dry and sandy 
 desert — in fact, we were obliged to travel nearly the 
 
 * I have never seen any account of this isolated town except a mere no- 
 tice from the pen of General Pike, who was marched through it, a prisoner, 
 almost forty years since. Some of the older inhabitants asked us several 
 questions in relation to this gallant officer, for they well remembered his pas- 
 sage through their town, but had never heard of his death. 
 
A LARGE CAVALCADE. 
 
 43 
 
 whole of the two succeeding days before we reached 
 water. The road from El Paso to Chihuahua runs, for 
 the greater part of the way, through a dry and barren 
 region, although there are some fertile valleys as the 
 traveller approaches the latter city ; and as there are no 
 settlements or houses on the way, we were again com- 
 pelled to make our lodging upon the ground. But as I 
 now had procured an extra blanket, the cold did not 
 prevent me from sleeping, as was the case in New 
 Mexico. 
 
 Taking advantage of the large escort which accom- 
 panied the prisoners, the inhabitants of El Paso sent 
 their fall crop of fruits and other products under its con- 
 voy. These commodities consisted, for the most part, 
 of apples, raisins, pears, onions, and no inconsiderable 
 quantity of wine and Paso brandy, all of which find a 
 ready market at Chihuahua : in return, the owners take 
 back sugar, chocolate, paper cigars, and also their Eng- 
 lish and fancy goods. Their reason for accompanying 
 us was the protection they supposed our guard afforded 
 against the much-dreaded Apaches, who are ever on 
 the look-out from the mountains, ready to pounce upon 
 any travellers seen upon this route. So numerous was 
 the company that now availed itself of our escort, that 
 the road, for a long distance, was tilled with pack mules 
 and Mexican carts. A more miscellaneous procession, 
 take it altogether, has probably never been seen since 
 the days of Peter the Hermit. The exact number I 
 did not take the trouble to ascertain ; but including 
 prisoners, guards, traders, muleteers, drivers, servants, 
 and camp-followers in the shape of women and chil- 
 dren, there could not be much less than a thousand, and 
 in the order in which we marched, the motley crowd 
 must have extended more than a mile. The dress of 
 
44 
 
 MEXICAN CARTS. 
 
 our guard, which was for the most part composed of 
 the militia of El Paso, differed but little from that of the 
 same class in New Mexico — ragged and motley, and 
 having no pretensions to uniformity. They were bet- 
 ter armed, perhaps, than their neighbours under Sale- 
 zar, having a greater number of carbines, or old Span- 
 ish muskets : yet they were all on foot, and were weak 
 and inefficient in every way. Many of them had no 
 shoes, but in their stead they wore sandals of their own 
 make — rudely manufactured, and affording little protec- 
 tion save to the soles of their feet. The leading traits 
 in the characters of these men appeared to be much 
 good-nature, and a disposition to treat the prisoners 
 with the utmost leniency — points in which they differed 
 materially from the savage brutes who dwell north of 
 them. 
 
 I have several times spoken of Mexican carts — a 
 more rude contrivance, take it all in all, can scarcely 
 be conceived. If in this country of locomotives, rail- 
 road cars, and well-built stage-coaches, the searcher after 
 antiquarian relics and curiosities should, by any chance, 
 meet with a Mexican cart, he would look upon it as the 
 first, the original- attempt of man to construct a kind 
 of wheel-carriage. Neither iron nor steel, paint nor 
 polish, spoke-shave nor plane, is used in it's fabrica- 
 tion — but give a Mexican a sufficiency of brittle cotton- 
 wood and raw-hide, and he has the materials ; give him 
 but one of his own clumsy and ill-contrived axes and an 
 auger, and he has all the tools he wants wherewith to 
 furnish a cart. Out of the first cutting of a cotton- wood 
 he hews an oblong block, through the centre of which 
 he bores and burns a hole for the axletree ; he next 
 digs, you cannot say cuts, two pieces from the same 
 tree, forming them into segments of a circle, which he 
 
RUDE HUSBANDRY. 
 
 45 
 
 pins to the sides of the aforesaid oblong mass by means 
 of long, wooden pegs. The wheel is now finished. 
 Should it not happen to be round, it is of little conse- 
 quence — it is near enough that shape for all Mexican 
 purposes. From the same wood he next cuts his axle- 
 tree and the body of his cart, the latter fastened togeth- 
 er by raw-hide. Then comes the tongue, also dug from 
 the same source whence came the wheels, and the ve- 
 hicle is finished. When in motion, the wheels stagger, 
 wabble and wander about, apparently in every direc- 
 tion but the right one, and as they slowly revolve upon 
 their axletrees, the want of friendly grease is made 
 painfully manifest by the most distressing groans and 
 screeches — excruciating noises which can be heard for 
 miles. Should his journey be of but one or two days’ 
 duration, the driver only carries one or two extra axle- 
 trees to guard against breakages ; if he is to be absent 
 a week, one half of his load consists of those indispen- 
 sables, else he never gets to his journey’s end. With 
 all his precautions, however, he frequently meets with 
 break-downs for which there is no l'emedy ; and were 
 not the wrecks instantly seized by the next passer for 
 firewood, the principal roads in the northern depart- 
 ments of Mexico, on either side, would long since have 
 been fenced with broken-down carts. 
 
 And then it would fairly drive the substantial Amer- 
 ican farmer distracted, to see the manner in which the 
 Mexican oxen are compelled to draw these carts. They 
 are not yoked and allowed the full use and strength of 
 their shoulders and chests, but a straight piece of tim- 
 ber is placed directly on their heads behind the horns, 
 and this is tied to the latter with raw-hide. Another 
 piece of raw-hide is next made fast around the centre 
 of the stick, and this, in turn, is tied to the tongue of 
 
46 
 
 MEXICAN INDOCILITY. 
 
 the cart or to the next pair of unfortunate oxen. In 
 this way, four, five, and even six pairs of cattle are fre- 
 quently seen pushing, as it were, not drawing, a cart 
 along, while a single yoke of oxen in the United States 
 could do the same work with all ease. Yet nothing 
 could convince the Mexicans that their mode is not the 
 best. Their forefathers, five generations back, adopt- 
 ed this system, and their rule is never to alter. So 
 with their long, heavy, clumsy ploughs ; three times 
 the space of ground might be ploughed with one of the 
 modern improvement, yet they will suffer no innova- 
 tion. Their axes, with long, straight handles, would be 
 small hoes were the blades turned round after the man- 
 ner of those implements : while the Mexican is pecking 
 away at a tree, in process of felling it, the American 
 would cut down, chop, and split one of the same size 
 into cord-wood, and very likely have time to pile it — 
 yet the patient Mexican pecks away, regardless of la- 
 bour and time so that his object is eventually attained. 
 Strange, that with a country as fair as any upon the 
 face of the earth, abounding in every species of soil, 
 climate, fruit, and mineral, the Mexicans will not 
 profit by the lessons, and adopt the systems of their 
 Saxon neighbours. They pertinaciously cling to the 
 customs of their forefathers, and are becoming every 
 year more and more impoverished — in short, they are 
 morally, physically, and intellectually distanced in the 
 great race of improvement which is run in almost every 
 other quarter of the earth. Give them but tortillas, 
 frijoles, and chile Colorado to supply their animal wants 
 for the day, and seven tenths of the Mexicans are sat- 
 isfied ; and so they will continue to be until the race 
 becomes extinct or amalgamated with Anglo-Saxon 
 stock ; for no political change, no revolution, can up- 
 
DIAMOND OF THE DESERT. 
 
 47 
 
 root that inherent indolence and antipathy to change 
 which in this age of improvement and advancement 
 must sooner or later work their ruin and downfall. In 
 these wonder-working days of steam, to stand still is to 
 retrograde. But I will leave speculation and return to 
 matter of fact. 
 
 The second night after our departure from El Paso 
 we encamped in the midst of an arid and sandy plain, 
 without water and with but scanty picking for the large 
 cavallada of horses, mules, and cattle. To remedy any 
 want on the part of the former, however, the officer 
 who now had charge of us, Captain Ochoa, had provi- 
 ded and filled several large casks at the springs and 
 wells we left in the morning. A sufficiency of beef, 
 bread, and salt was provided for the men, our marches 
 were neither so long nor so tiresome as while under 
 Salezar, and as carts had been provided at El Paso es- 
 pecially for such as might be sick or unable to travel, 
 our sufferings were now comparatively light. 
 
 Towards noon, on the third day, we arrived at a 
 celebrated water-hole, called the Diamond of the Des- 
 ert.* Immediately beyond were large mountains of 
 loose sand, and as for a distance of some ten miles it 
 was impossible to drag the carts over without doubling 
 the teams, we were ordered to remain behind until all 
 had made the passage. These sand mountains were 
 plainly visible from our camp, their yellow tops entire- 
 ly destitute of vegetation of any kind, and presenting an 
 appearance of dreary sterility. 
 
 The 10th of November we spent in lying, sleeping, 
 or walking about camp, mending our tattered clothing 
 
 * The Mexican name for this spring is “ Ojo de San Malayuque.” How 
 it came by the title of the Diamond of the Desert is more than I can say, 
 but so it was called by our men. 
 
48 
 
 MOUNTAINS OF SAND. 
 
 and washing such articles as most needed an introduc- 
 tion to the turbid spring near us. This Diamond of 
 the Desert was by no means of the fii'st water, the dark 
 and sluggish element being brackish and extremely un- 
 palatable ; but as it is the only spring, if it can be dig- 
 nified with that title, in any direction for miles, it is a 
 general stopping- pi ace for all travellers between El 
 Paso and Chihuahua. There are two things about it 
 which render it invaluable — it quenches thirst and nev- 
 er fails. A thousand men with horses might encamp 
 around it for a week, so we were told, and it would 
 bear the heavy demand upon it without exhaustion. 
 The soil is exceedingly poor in the vicinity, having no- 
 thing in the way of vegetation except a few scattering 
 thorns and dwarfish prickly pears. From El Paso the 
 Rio Grande bears off to the southeast, while our course 
 was nearly south, leaving the river some distance to 
 the left. 
 
 On the 11th of November our march was resumed, 
 our l'oute leading directly through the sand mountains. 
 Nearly as far as the eye could reach, after we were 
 fairly among them, nothing could be seen but immense 
 piles of light, yellow sand, not a solitary blade of grass 
 relieving the prospect in any direction. The horses 
 sank below their fetlocks at every step, and both men 
 and animals were completely worn out with fatigue be- 
 fore the passage was made across the dreary Saharra. 
 At times our course — for the continual changes made 
 by the winds forbid the existence of any permanent 
 road — lay along the sides of huge piles of sand ; then 
 we were groping our way through dreary ravines at 
 their base, and the next half hour we were climbing 
 steep pyramids which raised their heads high in air. A 
 more desolate scene cannot be imagined ; and although 
 
A TRAVELLING STONE. 
 
 49 
 
 the general features of this dreary waste will ever re- 
 main the same, the topography will be ever varying. 
 The traveller who passed this desert a month after us 
 found, instead of the mountains over which we toiled, 
 nothing but gullies. Like an immense panorama, the 
 scene is ever changing, and as the desert is shut in on 
 every side by high mountains of stone and vegetation, 
 these shifting sand-hills will remain there until the end 
 of time. The unchanging mountains I have just men- 
 tioned in the far distance were clothed with stunted ce- 
 dars, prickly pears, and a variety of dwarfish shrubs 
 and plants, and were the abodes of the daring Apaches, 
 the fierce grizzly bear, and the black-tailed deer so 
 common in the mountainous region of Northern Mexico. 
 
 We had made an early start in the morning, and the 
 distance across the sandy waste was only ten miles ; 
 yet it was near night before we had made the tedious 
 passage. Again we encamped with no other water 
 than that we had brought from the Diamond of the 
 Desert, and it was with the greatest difficulty we could 
 find brush and sticks enough to cook our beef ; but we 
 had now safely crossed the last desert on our route, 
 were promised an abundance of good water farther on- 
 ward, and were satisfied. 
 
 Near our encampment was a celebrated stone, weigh- 
 ing some two hundred pounds, the history of which is 
 singular enough. Many years ago this stone was found 
 near the Diamond of the Desert, and was the only one 
 within miles of the pool. A band of muleteers com- 
 menced lifting it, and finally one or two of them were 
 found strong enough to raise it to a level with, and then 
 to throw it over their heads. By accident the stone 
 first fell towards the city of Mexico ; and singularly 
 enough, in the course of time it has come to be super- 
 
 Vol. II.— E 
 
50 
 
 FOUNTAIN OF THE STAR. 
 
 stitiously regarded as a duty among the muleteers who 
 travel this road to facilitate the progress of the stone to- 
 wards the capital, a distance of some fourteen or fifteen 
 hundred miles ! Every muleteer who passes along 
 gives the stone a trial, although scarcely one in fifty is 
 able to throw it over his head, and in no other way is it al- 
 lowed to be moved. By this strange system of jour- 
 neying the stone has advanced some twelve or fourteen 
 miles on its travel, and this within the last century and 
 a half. The number of travellers upon this road is very 
 great, all the trade between New Mexico and the 
 States of Chihuahua and Sonora being forced to take 
 this route ; yet the stone makes remarkably slow prog- 
 ress, the same person not being allowed to throw it 
 over his head more than once. After it gets farther 
 down the country, some ages hence, its transit may be 
 more rapid ; but centuries upon centuries will pass 
 away before the wayfarer arrives at its journey’s end. 
 
 Such was the history of this singular stone as we 
 learned it from Captain Ochoa. It is called la puerta 
 de piedra,* but why it has received this name I know 
 not. Throughout the country, the inhabitants have 
 many strange customs, superstitions, and observances, 
 borrowed from the Indians, and all taking their rise 
 from some circumstance of trifling import; but this 
 idea of starting a stone which few can lift, upon so long 
 a journey and by such ludicrous, not to say preposter- 
 ous means, is the most singular of all. 
 
 By making an early start on the morning of the 12th 
 of November, we were enabled to reach the Ojo del 
 Lucero, or Fountain of the Star, as it is called, a spring 
 near the roadside, and distant some twenty miles from 
 our encampment of the night before. Our route still led 
 * Stone door, or door of stone. 
 
A RAGGED REGIMENT. 
 
 51 
 
 us through a poor and sandy country, the walking ex- 
 tremely tiresome and slow. 
 
 Could a correct Daguerreotype view have been taken 
 of us, at any point on the march between El Paso and 
 Chihuahua, I know not whether it would excite more 
 pity or mirth — in fact, I am inclined to believe it would 
 occasion a little of both. The haggard and sickly ap- 
 pearance of the men when first captured, as well as 
 while in the hands of the detestable Salezar, had now 
 given place to fuller cheeks and a more healthy colour 
 ■ — the consequence of a bountiful supply of nutritious 
 food at El Paso, and the comparatively light marches 
 since we had left that place. Still, such a motley col- 
 lection surely never was seen before — such variety of 
 costume, and such a picturesque, not to say grotesque, 
 appearance as we made would put to the blush and 
 break up a mardi gras, rag-fair, fantastical militia, or 
 any other fancy-dress procession ever invented. No 
 two were costumed with any attempt at uniformity, and 
 each individual stood forth a distinct and decided char- 
 acter. But few of us had shaved for weeks, and, as a 
 consequence, there was a large and general assortment 
 of unbrushed black, gray, red, and sandy beards, as 
 well as ferocious mustaches and whiskers — enough to 
 rig out an army of Fra Diavolos, Rinaldo Rinaldinis, 
 or West India bucaniers. A more brigandish set of 
 Anglo-Saxon faces has never been collected. Then, as 
 to costume, it is utterly impossible to paint the variety 
 our little crowd of one hundred and eighty-one men pre- 
 sented.* A few shabby-genteel, Jeremy Diddlerish men 
 
 * The reader may recollect that we set out from San Miguel, one hundred 
 and eighty -seven persons in all. Five were either killed or died before reach- 
 ing El Paso. At that place a gunsmith, named Neal, was left, under pre- 
 tence of being too ill to travel. It may be that his services were much 
 
52 
 
 RAGGED BUT MERRY. 
 
 there were in the party — men who had neither sold nor 
 “ swapped” off the clothes they had on when taken — but 
 nine out of ten were, to use a common expression, rigged 
 out almost any and every way. Here would be a fel- 
 low trudging along with a pair of ragged, Mexican- 
 made trousers, open from the knee downward, and the 
 sides studded with a profusion of tarnished brass bell 
 buttons. On his head might be stuck the remnant of a 
 straw hat, while a faded Texan dragoon jacket would 
 perhaps complete his outfit. His neighbour, very likely, 
 was arrayed in short buckskin breeches, without stock- 
 ings, a coarse, Mexican woollen shirt, and no hat at all. 
 Then would come a man with a dragoon cap worn 
 jauntily upon his head, while part of a shirt and occa- 
 sional fragments only of what had once been a pair of 
 military pantaloons, made up the rest of his attire. 
 Hardly one in the crowd had anything like a complete 
 suit even of rags ; almost every one was either hatless, 
 coatless, pantaloonless, or shirtless. Neither St. Giles’s 
 nor the Five Points at New- York could furnish such a 
 set of rough, ragged, and I may add rowdyish charac- 
 ters in appearance. 
 
 Falstaff's ragged regiment was well uniformed in 
 comparison with ours ; but, singular as it may seem, 
 there could hardly be found a merrier — I might be go- 
 ing too far in saying a happier — set of fellows in Christ- 
 endom. Our very looks bred good-humour, for there 
 was something irresistibly ludicrous in the appearance 
 of each man — a quaint solemnity and droll gravity of 
 countenance which would elicit some facetious and 
 good-natured remark from his neighbour. The comic 
 
 wanted by some of the inhabitants, and that his sickness “ was got up ex- 
 pressly for the occasion.” At all events, I will venture the assertion that the 
 expense of medicine in his case was trifling. 
 
THE AUTHOR’S PORTRAIT. 
 
 53 
 
 and eccentric were strangely mingled with the tragic and 
 melo-dramatic ; but the former preponderated to a de- 
 gree that completely stifled any pathetic feelings which 
 might otherwise have arisen, and fairly induced us to 
 laugh rather than cry at the forlorn but fantastic figure 
 each one presented in the moving panorama. So com- 
 pletely disguised were we all, that I doubt whether our 
 anxious mothers, even had the liberty of their unfortu- 
 nate sons depended on the recognition, could have pick- 
 ed us out by the most rigid scrutiny. And even could 
 they, by some well-remembered mark, have detected 
 an errant son, methinks they would have been slow to 
 acknowledge one who had wandered so far from their 
 hearth-stone as to have lost his very identity. 
 
 The free lines of Hogarth might have done justice to 
 a scene that was before me for months, but which words 
 are wholly inadequate to describe. Forty times a day 
 I could not resist laughing heartily at forty different per- 
 sons, and nine times out of ten these same persons would 
 turn the laugh upon myself, and remark that there was 
 nothing particularly prepossessing in my own appear- 
 ance. And they were right ; for almost the heartiest 
 laugh I had was while surveying my own face in a bit 
 of looking-glass. It was the first time I had the pleas- 
 ure of seeing myself for a month. A luxuriant growth 
 of whiskers and mustaches — I am speaking of quantity, 
 not quality — had sprung up, disguising me thoroughly. 
 I could only see my face in spots, but I could still see 
 enough fully to appreciate the ludicrous, serio-comico 
 figure I presented, and inly I determined to take no 
 offence at any laugh raised, or any remarks made upon 
 my visage or equipment. 
 
 E 2 
 
54 
 
 A SINGULAR HOT SPRING. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 A singular Hot Spring. — Medicinal Properties of the Waters. — “ Doing” our 
 Washing. — Carazal. — Appearance of the Town. — Dr. Whittaker in Busi- 
 ness. — Charley Tirrell, the Delaware. — A strange Contract. — Kirker, and 
 the Stories told of him. — Captain Spybuck killed by Apaches. — More of 
 Kirker. — Arrival of the Seiiora Ochoa, and her Style of Travelling. — Oppor- 
 tunity to Escape unimproved. — A Mountain Spring.— Laguna Encinillos. 
 — Desolate Appearance of the Country. — Inroads of the Apaches. — Their 
 Prowess and Daring. — Increase of the Tribe. — Visiters from Chihuahua. — 
 Hospitality and the Jesuits’ Hospital. — Situation of Chihuahua. — Mines in 
 the Vicinity. — Governor Conde. — Excitement of the Inhabitants. — The 
 Military of Chihuahua. — Entrance to the City. — Carcel de Ciudad. — The 
 Women of Chihuahua. — The Plaza. — Description of the Cathedral. — The 
 Presidio.— Jesuits’ Hospital. — Salon los Distinguidos. — Names upon the 
 Walls. — Description of the Hospital.) — Apache Prisoners. — Hidalgo, with a 
 short Account of the first Mexican Revolution, and the Death of that cele- 
 brated Leader. 
 
 We passed a singular hot spring on the 13th of No- 
 vember, our road leading us directly by it. The water 
 boils up from the top of a square mound, some twenty 
 feet high, which, at a short distance, has the appearance 
 of a fortification. That the mound is a natural forma- 
 tion there can be little doubt ; but it is in shape square, 
 and has as much precision of angle and regularity of 
 outline as though the hand of man had fashioned it. 
 The top of this mound forms an area of twenty or twen- 
 ty-five square yards, and is perfectly level, the spring 
 boiling up in the very centre. It is situated in the midst 
 of a desert, bare of all vegetation save a few bushes of 
 the thorn species, and may certainly be considered a 
 great natural curiosity. The water is clear, but warm, 
 and slightly brackish. 
 
 A few miles farther on, we encamped by a large and 
 beautiful spring, of warm but excellent water. Like 
 
INROADS OF THE APACHES. 
 
 55 
 
 the one I have just mentioned, it boils up out of the sand, 
 and in such quantities as to form a brook of no inconsid- 
 erable size from the fountain-head. After running some 
 three or four miles this brook empties into, or rather 
 forms, a large pond or lake. Within a league is an- 
 other spring of water, which was visited by a small par- 
 ty of our officers, accompanied by Captain Ochoa. The 
 Mexicans say that it possesses medicinal qualities, which 
 are highly efficacious in rheumatism and many chronic 
 diseases. We reached the first-named spring about 
 meridian, and remained all the afternoon, our men em- 
 ploying their time in bathing, and washing such articles 
 of their scanty wardrobe as might legitimately be term- 
 ed washable. 
 
 The next morning we passed the town of Carazal, 
 leaving it about a mile and a half or two miles on our 
 right. It is situated in a fertile valley at the foot of 
 a mountain, once contained over a thousand inhabi- 
 tants, and was a place of considerable trade ; but the 
 Apaches have completely broken it up by stealing the 
 cattle and crops of the farmers in the vicinity, and de- 
 stroying any small parties of citizens that unfortunately 
 might be caught too far from its walls. From a point 
 in the road we could plainly see these walls, and also 
 the domes and spires of two or three churches within. 
 We travelled some two miles beyond the town, encamp- 
 ing for the afternoon and night in an old field, and by 
 the side of a swift-running irrigating canal, now render- 
 ed comparatively valueless by the inroads of the daring 
 and ever-active Apaches. 
 
 While passing Carazal, three or four Mexicans came 
 dashing from the place on horseback, rode up to our 
 party, and inquired if there was a physician among us. 
 Dr. Whittaker, our surgeon, was pointed out, and in 
 
56 
 
 AN EDUCATED INDIAN. 
 
 company with Van Ness to interpret he was taken to 
 the house of a woman in the town who was confined to 
 her bed by illness. After he had prescribed some med- 
 icines, an excellent dinner was provided for the doctor 
 and Van Ness, and shortly after their return to camp in 
 the afternoon a fine fat sheep was sent out to the former, 
 as the fee for his professional services. There are few 
 Mexican physicians except in the large cities of the 
 country, and so far as I could learn they have very little 
 need of the services of any, especially on the high table- 
 lands or tierras temjAadas. Still, American and foreign 
 physicians may be found scattered all over Mexico, and 
 frequently they accumulate ample fortunes by their 
 practice. 
 
 We had been but a short time encamped by the irri- 
 gating canal when we were visited by a half-breed Del- 
 aware Indian, a tall, well-made fellow, named Charley 
 Tirrell, who spoke very fair English, although strangely 
 mixed with Spanish and Indian idioms. He had been 
 regularly educated in Indiana, with one or two sisters, 
 so he said ; had visited Washington city once or twice, 
 and was well acquainted with General Dodge and sev- 
 eral United States officers. It required but a very short 
 time for us to ascertain that Charley was extremely 
 fond of dealing in gasconade, and that in his own esti- 
 mation he was a very important personage ; whether 
 this failing was inherent, or he had contracted it by 
 commerce with the Mexicans, who are heavy dealers 
 in that line, I am unable to say. He was accompanied 
 by a quiet-seeming, badly pock-marked Shawnee, and 
 a pert little Mexican officer, who said he had visited 
 the United States, and was incessantly pouring forth a 
 stream of rascally bad English to prove his assertion. 
 Charley informed us that himself and some twelve 
 
HIRED WARRIORS. 
 
 57 
 
 Shawnees and Delawares, the party under command of 
 a noted chief named Captain Spybuck, had come to this 
 part of Mexico, from the great Western Prairies of the 
 United States, under contract with the government of 
 Chihuahua to kill the Apaches at so much a head — five 
 dollars, I think, was the price. Some of the Mexicans 
 also told us that a well-known American, named Kirk- 
 er, had been engaged in the same business, and with a 
 party of his countrymen had been very successful ; but 
 it being soon suspected that he was in the practice of 
 bringing in counterfeit scalps — or in other words, that 
 he did not scruple to kill any of the lower order of Mex- 
 icans he might meet with, where there was slight chance 
 of being discovered, and pass off their top-knots for those 
 of true Apaches — a stop was put to the game, and af- 
 terward, instead of paying him a certain sum for each 
 scalp, he was allowed only one dollar a day for his ser- 
 vices. This was the story I heard from the Mexicans, 
 who added that Kirker immediately gave up the busi- 
 ness and retired to Sonora, or the western part of Chi- 
 huahua, setting all attempts to arrest him at defiance. 
 
 Captain Spybuck and his party, at all events, remain- 
 ed in the service of the government of Chihuahua, re 
 ceiving for their pay one dollar per diem. He was a 
 brave and noted chief, well known on the Western fron- 
 tiers of the United States to many of our officers and 
 soldiers. His Mexican expedition had cost him his life ; 
 for, but a week previous to our reaching the vicinity of 
 Carazal, he had been killed upon a side of the mount- 
 ain, near that town, in a desperate encounter with the 
 Apaches. Charley related the particulars of his cap- 
 tain’s death with not a little feeling, and said that, now 
 he was gone, both himself and companions were ex- 
 tremely anxious to return to the United States. He 
 
58 
 
 A MAN OF DEEDS. 
 
 attributed the death of Spybuck to the cowardice of the 
 little Mexican I have spoken of. The latter command- 
 ed a party of his countrymen at the time of the engage- 
 ment, but retreated precipitately with his men when he 
 ascertained that the Apaches were nearly equal in num- 
 ber, and left his Indian friends to fight it out as best 
 they could. This was not told us in the hearing of the 
 little Mexican, who was a talking, blustering fellow, ex- 
 tremely fond of relating his exploits. I could not but 
 be amused at a remark of Charley — one that plainly 
 showed he had had much intercourse with the Ameri- 
 cans and well understood their cant phrases. The lit- 
 tle Mexican had just finished a recital of some danger- 
 ous exploit, of which he had been the hero, when the 
 Delaware remarked, aside, that he was “ all talk and 
 no cider.” 
 
 I was extremely loath, at the time, to credit the Mex- 
 ican accounts of Kirker and his doings, and have 
 since been informed, by Americans who know him 
 well, that they are destitute of foundation. For many 
 years Kirker led a wild, border life, engaged in con- 
 tinual strife with the hostile Indians of the prairies and 
 of Mexico, and in all his encounters with them came off 
 victorious. He is now, or was a year since, quietly 
 occupied in overlooking a hacienda not many days’ 
 travel from Chihuahua, ready to repel any attack his 
 old enemies, the Apaches, may make upon him. His 
 superior prowess and great daring may have first im- 
 bittered the Mexicans against him, for no sooner has 
 any foreigner signalized himself by deeds of noble da- 
 ring in their cause, than he is looked upon with jealousy 
 and distrust, and the first opportunity is embraced to 
 oust him from the high estate his talents have destined 
 him to fill. This spirit, in all probability, first engender- 
 
A LADY’S CARRIAGE; 
 
 59 
 
 ed hostility against Kirker on the part of the Mexicans, 
 and induced them to fabricate numerous stories of his 
 cruelty and dishonesty. 
 
 At Carazal resided, for the time, the Senora Ochoa, 
 wife of our friend, the captain. Just before we left our 
 camp, on the morning of the 15th of November, she 
 arrived with the intention of accompanying her hus- 
 band to Chihuahua. Although on the cloudy side of 
 thirty, she was still a pretty woman, with large, spark- 
 ling black eyes, and the winning, easy, and sociable 
 manners which belong to Mexican females of whatever 
 degree. On her arrival she was dressed in a neatly- 
 worked linen chemise and bluish woollen petticoat, a 
 rosary with a small cross around her neck, and wore 
 her reboso with that grace which is peculiar to the fe- 
 males of her land. 
 
 My readers may be a little astonished at the style in 
 which she made her first appearance among us. Her 
 travelling-carriage was nothing more or less than a 
 huge Pennsylvania or Conestoga wagon, drawn by 
 four yokes of oxen. This vehicle had found its way 
 from Pittsburgh to St. Louis ; there had been purchased 
 by traders who had sent it to Santa Fe, and by some 
 strange mutation it had finally reached Carazal and 
 been promoted to the high office of transporting a Mex- 
 ican officer’s lady. Everything was comfortable, how- 
 ever, under the white cotton canopy which served as a 
 top ; and I doubt wffiether the Lord-mayor of London 
 ever felt happier, while showing himself in his richly- 
 caparisoned coach of state, than did Seiiora Ochoa 
 while riding in her Conestoga wagon drawn by eight 
 oxen. On her arrival in camp her husband politely in- 
 vited General McLeod and myself to mess with him 
 
GO 
 
 A CHANCE OF ESCAPE LOST. 
 
 and la senora as far as Chihuahua, an invitation which 
 we accepted. 
 
 Although we did not leave our camp until a late 
 hour on the morning after Charley Tirrell, the Dela- 
 ware, had visited us, we saw no more of him. After 
 our departure from Carazal I felt annoyed that I had 
 not made an attempt to escape through his agency and 
 by his assistance. I did not place much faith either in 
 his valour or his honesty, although in this I may have 
 wronged him ; but I could easily gather, from his con- 
 versation, that he was anxious once more to visit his 
 native land, and that nothing but the want of money 
 prevented him. With a small sum in hand, and the 
 promise of a larger on reaching the United States, I 
 have little doubt he would not only have started off on 
 the night he visited our camp, but would have provided 
 horses for the journey. Our march would have been 
 tedious and dangerous^ leading directly through a part 
 of the Apache and Camanche country ; we should also 
 have been compelled to travel by night, and endure 
 great hardships and sufferings ; still, I would have run 
 all risks for the sake of once more gaining that liberty 
 of which I was most unjustly deprived. The oppor- 
 tunity to escape was lost, however, when we left the 
 neighbourhood of Carazal, and unpleasant as was the 
 prospect before me — that of a march of some fifteen 
 hundred miles, and an uncertainty as to what disposi- 
 tion would be made of me on reaching the city of Mex- 
 ico — I was obliged to submit. 
 
 The night we left Carazal we encamped at another 
 hot well, and on the next afternoon we arrived at a 
 cool spring upon the side of a mountain, at the base of 
 which we halted. On the 18 th of November we jour- 
 neyed along the margin of Laguna Encinillos, a lake 
 
THE APACHE INDIANS. 
 
 61 
 
 some twenty miles in length by three or four in width. 
 The country in the vicinity affords most excellent pas- 
 turage for cattle and sheep, and several years since 
 there were immense herds of both kept in this vicinity ; 
 but the dreaded Apaches have extended their ravages 
 even to the very walls of Chihuahua, and laid the whole 
 country waste. At one time a revenue of several hun- 
 dred thousand dollars was produced from a single ha- 
 cienda on the borders of the lake — now the place is 
 desolate, and the owner dare not even visit it without a 
 strong guard. Some of the best land in Mexico lies on 
 the borders of Laguna Encinillos, but at present it is en- 
 tirely useless from the depredations of the Apaches. A 
 few cattle and horses are still pastured in the vicinity ; 
 yet where there is one at present, there were one hun 
 dred twenty years since. 
 
 The Apaches live, for the most part, in the neighbour- 
 hood of the chain of mountains lying between New 
 Mexico and the States of Sonora and Chihuahua. 
 They are extremely expert as horsemen, keeping im- 
 mense droves of those animals, and in using the lance 
 and bow and arrow are said to be surpassingly adroit. 
 It is within a few years only that fire-arms have been 
 introduced among them, and those of so inferior a qual- 
 ity that their former weapons are far more effective. 
 They are a proud, independent, and hardy tribe, but 
 little contaminated by intercourse with the whites, and 
 are said to present the singular anomaly of a tribe ot 
 aborigines increasing in numbers and in such wealth as 
 the Indian most covets — horses and arms, trinkets and 
 finery. In their attacks upon the Mexicans they are 
 said to be very daring, coming upon them with the speed 
 of the whirlwind, and making off to their fastnesses and 
 retreats in the mountains before organized pursuit can 
 Vol. II.— F 
 
62 
 
 CHIHUAHUA. 
 
 be commenced. The Spaniards, when they first subju- 
 gated the country, drove this tribe to the mountains and 
 confined them there ; but of late years, as I have said, 
 they have increased in numbers, are very systematic in 
 their attacks, and are gradually wresting their lands 
 back from the Mexicans. 
 
 On the night of the 19th of November we arrived at 
 a camp within some five or six miles of Chihuahua. 
 Here we were visited by several gentlemen of the town 
 who had heard of our approach. They spoke to Mr. 
 Navarro very kindly, and said that himself and friends 
 need expect nothing but hospitality while in the city. 
 The next night we found ourselves closely confined in 
 the old Jesuits’ Hospital! 
 
 The city of Chihuahua is situated near the southern 
 base of a chain of precipitous mountains, which, at this 
 point, form a kind of crescent, in the curve of which the 
 city stands. As it is approached from the north, the 
 traveller is at a loss how a passage over the rough and 
 steep hills to the south can be made ; and even after he 
 has entered the city he is still in doubt. But a ride of 
 an hour brings him to an open defile turning abruptly 
 off, unseen almost until the traveller enters it, and 
 through this passage an excellent road has been cut. 
 
 As we approached the city, the mines on the mount- 
 ain sides could be plainly seen, excavations and smoke 
 marking the points at which the work of digging for 
 silver was then in progress. When within a couple of 
 miles, the inhabitants commenced flocking out — some 
 on foot, others on horseback — while a number of heavy, 
 clumsy-looking, but costly and elaborately-carved coach- 
 es, drawn by five or seven mules, with postillions after 
 the old Spanish custom, were on the spot, filled with 
 the ladies of the place. I noticed that two or three of 
 
EXCITEMENT AND CURIOSITY. 
 
 63 
 
 them wore gowns, after the fashion of my own land — 
 the first I had seen in a journey of six hundred miles 
 through the country. 
 
 When within one mile of the city a halt was called, 
 and immediately after the governor, Garcia Conde, 
 made his appearance, attended by his suite. He is a 
 portly, handsome man, gentlemanly in his manners, and 
 from his complexion appears to be of pure Castilian 
 blood. Dismounting from his horse, he was introduced 
 to and shook hands with General McLeod, Mr. Navar- 
 ro, and several of the officers, after which the march 
 was resumed. 
 
 As we drew closer to the city, it was evident enough 
 that our coming had created an unusual excitement and 
 commotion. The top of the large and magnificent ca- 
 thedral, the domes of the churches, convents, and other 
 public buildings, as well as the housetops, were cov- 
 ered with the inhabitants, all anxious to obtain a sight of 
 the much-talked-of Tejanos. Immediately outside the 
 city the entire military strength of the place, com- 
 prising some hundreds of regular and raw troops, was 
 drawn up in lines upon either side of the road. When 
 we were between these lines, another short halt was 
 called, for what purpose I know not, unless it was to al- 
 low the miserable burlesques upon soldiers time to 
 wheel with their faces towards the city. This evolu- 
 tion performed in a bungling manner, amid the sup- 
 pressed jeers of our own men, we were commanded to 
 advance in regular order, the Chihuahua troops march- 
 ing in single file on either side of us to the blowing of 
 trumpets and the beating of drums. In this order we 
 entered the northern or eastern part of the city ; but 
 why they marched us in with so much state and cere- 
 mony I am utterly at a loss to imagine, unless it was in 
 
64 
 
 GAZED AT AS A SHOW. 
 
 ambitious emulation of a Roman triumph, which we 
 poor devils were thought worthy to adorn. 
 
 While riding along, and wondering at all I saw, I 
 was accosted by a person in the crowd, outside the 
 city, whose face plainly told that he was other than 
 a Mexican. Stealthily, for we were allowed no con- 
 verse with any but our guard, he asked information 
 of a young man who had started upon the expedition 
 full of health and hope. I told him that the person was 
 dead — had been killed by Indians on the prairie. Far- 
 ther than this I was not allowed to communicate, the 
 soldier by my side commanding me to silence. After- 
 ward I learned that the individual who addressed me 
 was an American ; that the young man of whom he 
 spoke was a nephew ; and the startled and desolate 
 look of the man, the feeling with which he ejaculated 
 “ dead !” plainly denoted that he was far from antici- 
 pating such ill-tidings. 
 
 Once inside the city, we found every window, bal- 
 cony, door, and housetop crowded with men, women, 
 and children. The sides of the streets, too, were lined 
 with a dense throng of half-dressed men and women, 
 the lower orders of the place, and all gazing at us with 
 an intentness as earnest as if we had been so many 
 wild beasts. All was hurry, bustle, and confusion. 
 Children were running about and struggling through 
 the crowd to obtain a look at us, and “ Mira ! mira ! 
 Los Tejanos ! los Tejanos !”* was on every lip. 
 
 A few steps brought us to the Carcel de Ciudad, or 
 city prison, from the close-grated windows of which 
 desperate and villanous faces were peering at us with 
 much apparent satisfaction. Little did I then think 
 
 * “ Look ! look ! The Texans ! the Texans ! 
 
WOMEN STILL COMPASSIONATE. 
 
 65 
 
 that I was yet to be furnished with lodgings in a place 
 even more revolting than this most dreary and dismal 
 prison. 
 
 Our march led us on through streets in the direction 
 of the plaza, and at every step the crowd seemed to 
 increase and become more dense. The balconies and 
 windows of the better classes were filled with women, 
 their full, black eyes beaming upon us with looks of 
 mingled pity and astonishment. They had never be- 
 fore seen a people whom they had been taught to be- 
 lieve worse than the savages themselves — they gazed 
 upon a crowd of unfortunate men, in whose faces they 
 could discover no trace of those evil passions, of that 
 cruelty of disposition and purpose they had supposed 
 us to possess. The commonest observer must have 
 noticed that instinct in children which teaches them, 
 even before they can talk, to read unerringly the coun- 
 tenance of a man or an animal, and to shrink with in- 
 tuitive fear from an expression sinister or unkind, while 
 they will approach and soon become familiar with any 
 one whose countenance indicates good-nature. That 
 same instinct appeared to govern the females of Mex- 
 ico in their conduct towards us — the same pure, gentle, 
 and childlike spirit within them was touched by our 
 distresses, and inspired their soft exclamation of pity 
 — pobrecitos — which was murmured in sweet accents 
 from the lips of many a kind-hearted girl of Chihuahua. 
 They saw that we were not the monsters we had been 
 represented to them, that we were at least human, and 
 that we were unfortunate — and had they possessed the 
 power to bid us be free and happy, not a man in tne 
 ragged crowd of Texans would have remained an hour 
 in bondage. 
 
 We passed through the principal plaza, which was 
 F 2 
 
66 
 
 CATHEDRAL OF CHIHUAHUA. 
 
 also thronged with gazers. In the centre of the square 
 is a fountain — the celebrated Cathedral of Chihuahua 
 occupying one of the sides, while the shops of the prin- 
 cipal foreign and native merchants fill up the other 
 three. The cathedral is a magnificent edifice, as re- 
 gards both its architecture and adornments. The front 
 is decorated with numerous statues of apostles and 
 saints, nearly or quite as large as life, standing in niches 
 expressly built for their reception, while the doors and 
 windows are richly ornamented with elaborate sculp- 
 ture, done in the most costly style. The interior is 
 also said to be very expensively decorated with gold 
 and silver ornaments, paintings, and statuary. The 
 entire cost of all was between a million and a half and 
 two millions of dollars, a monument of the immense 
 sums which the Spaniards, even in their more remote 
 provinces, were willing to expend in order to give full 
 effect to their religion. 
 
 On the top of a fonda, or hotel, which was kept by 
 an Englishman, we noticed a number of Anglo-Saxons, 
 whose light hair and fair complexions formed a striking 
 contrast to the dark and swarthy faces around them. 
 On arriving at the Presidio,* which was set apart as 
 our prison, we were halted and counted. A short time 
 after, an officer took me to an old establishment of the 
 Jesuits, commenced a great many years since by that 
 ambitious, bold, and enlightened order, but which had 
 never been finished. Here, in a small, badly-lighted 
 room, having the words “ Salon los Distinguidos ”* paint- 
 ed over the entrance, I found General McLeod, and 
 Messrs. Navarro, Van Ness, and Falconer, from whom 
 I had been accidentally separated on entering the city, 
 
 * The garrison or barracks for soldiers. 
 
 f Room or apartment for distinguished persons. 
 
JESUIT CONVENT. 
 
 67 
 
 all close prisoners. On the walls of this room were 
 the names of Colonel Cooke and Dr. Brenham, and also 
 that of a Mr. Thurston. The latter had been confined 
 a few days in consequence of a letter of introduction, 
 directed to him, having been found among the papers 
 of the Santa Fe Expedition. It being ascertained, how- 
 ever, upon investigation, that he had no connexion with 
 the Texans, he was released. 
 
 The apartment immediately adjoining ours was a 
 dark dungeon, and occasionally we imagined we could 
 hear the clanking of chains which probably confined an 
 unfortunate inmate. The guard who paced up and 
 down in front of our room informed us that an Ameri- 
 can was the only occupant — his name, or the crime 
 for which he was incarcerated, the sentinel would not 
 disclose. 
 
 The building in which we were confined was one of 
 those old Jesuit establishments to be found in every 
 part of America where that order first obtained a foot- 
 ing. That part of it intended for a hospital, prison, and 
 offices, was finished ; but the work was stopped before 
 the church was completed. Had the original plan of 
 the Jesuits been carried out, the church would have 
 been a magnificent edifice, and the building generally 
 would have served as a fortress, impregnable, at least, 
 against the attacks of Indians ; but from some cause 
 the work was suspended before its completion, although 
 immense arches, columns, and a part of the dome of the 
 church are still standing. 
 
 The room in which we were confined looked out 
 upon a large corral, or yard, in the interior. The rear 
 wall of the church formed one side of this yard, the 
 kitchen and other apartments for servants another side, 
 while the other two were appropriated to quarters for 
 
68 
 
 HIDALGO, THE REVOLUTIONIST. 
 
 soldiers, rooms for the sick, offices, a place for punish 
 ment, and a dungeon. In the yard an Apache woman, 
 with her child, was confined. She was allowed such 
 liberty as she might find in roaming about the building, 
 but was not permitted to go into the streets. She was 
 extremely fat, and appeared to bear her confinement, 
 such as it was, without a murmur. 
 
 During the first struggle of the Mexicans for inde- 
 pendence, the Spaniards confined no less than thirty- 
 one of their most important revolutionary prisoners in 
 the very room in which we were now placed, among 
 them the celebrated Hidalgo, the prime mover and 
 principal leader in the earlier outbreak. 
 
 At the commencement of the year 1810 , Hidalgo 
 was but the poor and unimportant cura of Dolores, 
 a little town some thirty miles northeast of Guana- 
 juato. From all accounts he was a man of strong 
 mind, and of no inconsiderable reading and infor- 
 mation, possessing great powers of endurance com- 
 bined with resolution and activity, and, in common with 
 the natives of the country at that day, entertained a 
 most cordial hatred for the Spanish-born taskmasters 
 under whose tyrannical yoke they groaned. 
 
 The circumstance that every office of honour and 
 emolument in Mexico was filled by a native of Old 
 Spain was enough, of itself, even were the offices held 
 by honourable men, to drive the natives to revolt ; how 
 easy, then, to kindle the flames of revolution, when the 
 band of office-holders were, for the most part, mere mer- 
 cenary and broken-down adventurers, unprincipled men, 
 who cheated and defrauded those whom they governed, 
 and whose many acts of insolence and overbearing 
 tyranny tended to render the natives infuriate, against 
 not only the agents themselves, but the parent country 
 
RAPID SUCCESS. 
 
 69 
 
 that had sent them over ! I do not intend to say that 
 the poorer classes of Mexico are in a much better sit- 
 uation now than when under the domination of Spain — 
 it appears to be the destiny of the ignorant and money- 
 less of this unfortunate race to be the prey of the more 
 wealthy and crafty ; but the lesson they had received 
 from their neighbours of the United States, co-operating 
 with the excessive and increasing burdens and indigni- 
 ties their mother-country was heaping upon them, pre- 
 pared the minds of all to echo a grito, or cry of revolu- 
 tion, whenever any one was found bold enough to raise 
 it. This man appeared in the person of Don Miguel 
 Hidalgo y Costilla, the humble but discontented cura of 
 Dolores. 
 
 He is said to have received some private insults from 
 the king’s officers, which rankled in his bosom ; and 
 when to these were joined the common wrongs that 
 were felt by all his countrymen alike, it is not to be 
 wondered at that a man of his characteristic boldness 
 and ambition raised the standard of revolt. His first 
 attempt proved remarkably successful. With but a 
 dozen assistants he seized upon the few Spaniards in 
 Dolores, thi'ew them into prison, and, after dividing their 
 effects equally among his followers, proclaimed war 
 against the common enemies of all, the Gachupines. or 
 natives of Old Spain. This was on the 16 th of Septem- 
 ber, 1810 . 
 
 No sooner had his first success become known than 
 the entire population of the vicinity flocked to his ban- 
 ner. With a motley, ill-armed crowd, he marched im- 
 mediately upon San Felipe, a town containing some fif- 
 teen thousand inhabitants. Here he was again success- 
 ful, imprisoning and pillaging all the Spaniards, and di- 
 viding the plunder thus obtained among his ragged but 
 
70 
 
 SWELLING OF THE RABBLE. 
 
 enthusiastic adherents. San Miguel el Grande, a town 
 as large as San Felipe, next fell into his hands ; the 
 property of all the foreigners was confiscated and di- 
 vided, after which Hidalgo marched forthwith upon 
 Guanajuato, then containing a population of more than 
 seventy thousand, and immense riches. 
 
 In front of this city, and with twenty thousand rag- 
 ged, undisciplined, and almost unarmed adherents around 
 him, he publicly proclaimed the independence of Mexico, 
 and caused himself to be elected commander-in-chief of 
 the army, with the title of Captain- general of America. 
 I cannot dwell long upon particulars : Guanajuato, with 
 all its immense treasures* soon fell into the hands of Hi- 
 dalgo, the Gachupines were indiscriminately slaughtered 
 by his Indian allies, and all their houses razed to the 
 ground. With this additional success, and with the im- 
 mense amount of gold and silver the plunder of Guana- 
 juato gave him, the little breeze of rebellion was now 
 fanned into a perfect hurricane of revolution. 
 
 Thousands and tens of thousands now hurried to the 
 standard of the victorious Hidalgo. All had wrongs to 
 redress : the native priest, who under the Spanish rule 
 could never rise above a petty curacy, now had a chance 
 for advancement ; the native officers of the army, who 
 were never allowed to fill other than subordinate sta- 
 tions, now saw a bright opening for advancing and sig- 
 nalizing themselves ; the ladrones, or common thieves, 
 could now reap a rich harvest of plunder ; while the 
 poor Indians, who for centuries had groaned silently 
 and patiently under the iron yoke of their conquerors, 
 saw an opportunity for revenge and a chance to regain 
 their long-lost liberty, and with holy zeal joined the 
 common cause against the common tyrants. 
 
 Hidalgo remained but ten days at Guanajuato, his 
 
RUSHING UPON DEATH. 
 
 71 
 
 motley crowd of adherents, in the mean time, commit- 
 ting the most outrageous excesses. His next move was 
 towards Valladolid, a place which he found evacuated 
 by all the government officers and foreigners. By this 
 time the rabble army he had drawn around him num- 
 bered more than fifty thousand men ; yet a more undis- 
 ciplined, ineffective, and ungovernable band was never 
 collected. A large portion of them were drawn from 
 the Indian population, and were armed only with clubs, 
 stones, slings, bows and arrows, lances, axes, and ma- 
 chetes, or heavy swords. It was not until the celebra- 
 ted patriot general, Morales, then a poor cura like Hi- 
 dalgo, joined the disorderly throng, that anything like 
 system, either in marching or fighting, was established. 
 Hidalgo had depended only upon numbers, and the 
 blind enthusiasm of his Indians, in encountering the sys- 
 tematic but feeble opposition he had met with only at 
 Guanajuato. From Valladolid, his next movement was 
 towards the city of Mexico, then in the hands of the 
 Spanish viceroy, Venegas. 
 
 On the 30th of October Hidalgo defeated the force 
 sent out from the city at the pass of Las Cruces, his ig- 
 norant Indians even rushing up to the mouths of the 
 cannon planted to intercept their onward march, and 
 endeavouring to stop the death-dealing muzzles with 
 their straw hats ! Hundreds of them were mowed 
 down by the cannon, which were well directed by the 
 regular troops under Truxillo and Augustin Iturbide. 
 The latter was at that time a lieutenant in the Spanish 
 service — afterward Emperor of Mexico. These offi- 
 cers were defeated, but defeated only by the number 
 and phrensy of Hidalgo’s rabble. The latter imme- 
 diately advanced within sight of Mexico, and then sud- 
 denly retreated with all his host. He well knew that 
 
72 
 
 DOWNFALL OF HIDALGO. 
 
 another such victory as that of Las Cruces Avould 
 ruin him, for his undisciplined Indians had suffered ter 
 ribly, and had learned the full power of cannon when 
 advantageously posted and well directed. 
 
 On the 7th of November following, Hidalgo was de- 
 feated, with immense loss, on the plains of Aculco, by 
 General Calleja. We next hear of his entering Valla- 
 dolid a second time, putting to death many Spaniards. 
 He then marched to Guadalaxara, the second city in 
 Mexico, which was at that time in possession of one of 
 his generals, Allende. While there, Hidalgo secretly 
 assassinated no less than seven hundred of the princi- 
 pal Gachupines, and committed many acts that illustrate 
 the bloody manner in which the early revolution was 
 conducted. Nor were the Spaniards guiltless of the 
 most horrible atrocities ; for they gave no quarter to 
 such of t'ne unfortunate patriots as fell into their hands. 
 
 On the 17th of January, although he now had cannon 
 and had brought a part of his force into something like 
 discipline, Hidalgo was once more defeated by Calleja. 
 This battle was fought at the bridge of Calderon. Hi- 
 dalgo, with his principal officers and about four thou- 
 sand men, made good his retreat to Saltillo, in the State 
 of Nueva Leon. Leaving his principal force under 
 Rayon, one of his best generals, Hidalgo hastened to- 
 wards the United States, in company with Allende and 
 other principal officers, for the purpose of purchasing 
 arms and military stores, and raising efficient recruits 
 to carry on the war against the well-disciplined Span- 
 iards. He got as far as the borders of Texas, with a 
 large sum of money, but was betrayed and captured by 
 Elisondo, one of his former friends and compatriots, 
 marched a prisoner to Chihuahua, and confined in the 
 room where we were now guarded. This was in 
 
HIS DEATH. 
 
 73 
 
 March, 1811 , only six months after he had first raised 
 the grito of revolution. 
 
 After undergoing a long trial, Hidalgo, with thirty of 
 his officers, was sentenced to death, and is said to have 
 met his fate with great coolness and bravery. Such is 
 a broken and hurried account, gleaned from Ward and 
 other English writers, of the first revolution in Mexico, 
 and of the short but eventful career of the celebrated 
 Hidalgo, who began it. Some of the sentinels on guard 
 over our little party told a strange tale in relation to the 
 death of Hidalgo and his officers, thirty-one in all — a 
 story undoubtedly destitute of foundation, but which I 
 give to show the passion of the lower orders in Mexico 
 for the marvellous. As the tale ran, Hidalgo and his 
 officers were ordered to be shot in the yard of the hos- 
 pital, one each day until they were all executed ; but as 
 the month in which the sentence was first passed had 
 but thirty days in it, the Spaniards waited until the en- 
 suing month, which numbered a day for each prisoner. 
 When it came to Hidalgo’s turn, the soldiers, in such 
 high respect and reverence was the old cura held by 
 them, could hardly be induced to aim their muskets at 
 him, and many volleys were fired before he received 
 his death-wound. The very spot where he fell was 
 pointed out to us. 
 
 Vol. II.— G 
 
74 
 
 A VISIT FROM COUNTRYMEN. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The old Jesuits’ Hospital of Chihuahua.— American Visiters.— Asked for the 
 Particulars of my own Death. — A stealthy Interview.— Dr. Jennison.— 
 Clean Beds.— A sumptuous English Breakfast.— Prisoner in the adjoining 
 Dungeon. — A Meeting. — The Mystery unveiled.— Singular Trial. — Testi- 
 mony of General McLeod and Messrs. Van Ness and Navarro. — A Release 
 from Chains. — An excellent Dinner from the Senora Magoffin.— Visiters 
 at our Room. — Letters to my Friends. — “La Luna.” — Armijo’s Letter to 
 Garcia Conde.— Implicated with the Leaders of the Expedition. — Lewis's 
 probable Agency in the Affair. — A Gasconading Editor. — Poetic Address 
 to a Horse. — Movements of Lewis. — A lively little French Woman.— Our 
 Treatment by the Foreigners in Mexico. — Departure from Chihuahua.— 
 Collection of the Inhabitants. — Furnished a Horse by a Friend.— Difficulty 
 of mounting the Pony. — His Feats and Antics. — The Mexican Saddle, and 
 its Advantages. — El Ojito. — Encounter with American Wagoners. — Arri- 
 val at San Pablo.- — A Chihuahua Major. — Our Accommodations at San 
 Pablo.— Practical Knowledge of Entomological Science. — Mexican Horse 
 Jockeys. — Mr. Falconer mounted again.— Saucillo.— An Escape agitated. 
 — Death of Larrabee. — A young Mexican Musician.— Santa Rosalia. — The 
 Alcalde and his Daughter. — A stolen Horse claimed. — Military versus Civil 
 Law.— Roadside Graves and Crosses. — Stories in relation to them. 
 
 It was about two o’clock on the afternoon of the 21st 
 of November when we were introduced to the Salon 
 los Distinguidos of the Jesuits’ Hospital at Chihuahua. 
 At dusk, two American gentlemen made their way, by 
 some means, through the ponderous gate which leads 
 from the street to the interior of the hospital, and came 
 to our door, but were denied admittance by the senti- 
 nel. One of the gentlemen, however, while walking up 
 and down in front of our open door, stealthily, and in 
 low and hurried tones, asked me if I could give him the 
 particulars of the death of Fitzgerald, Van Ness, How- 
 ard, and Kendall. To be asked the particulars of one’s 
 own death ! I gave the American my name, pointed 
 
A CURIOUS PREDICAMENT. 
 
 75 
 
 to Van Ness, who was sitting on a hospital-cot close 
 by, in such ruddy health that he seemed likely to live 
 seventy years to come, and then told the gentleman 
 that the other victims mentioned as among the killed 
 were both in Chihuahua, at the Presidio, enjoying the 
 full measure of life and strength, and ready to corrobo- 
 rate my statement. I hardly know which were the 
 most astonished — we to hear of our own deaths, or the 
 gentleman to learn, from our own lips, that we were 
 still in the land of the living. There was no opportu- 
 nity, however, for an outward expression of surprise, 
 as the sentinel at the door showed great uneasiness 
 even at our few hurried questions and answers, not one 
 word of which could he understand. I simply told the 
 American that we had been fortunate enough to escape 
 with our lives thus far, although nothing but a miracle 
 had saved us. Our visiters then left, but not until they 
 had promised to use every endeavour, with Governor 
 Conde, for permission to visit us in our room, and do 
 all in their power to soften the rigours of our confine- 
 ment. 
 
 It is so seldom that a man is called upon to relate 
 the particulars of his own death, that few of my read- 
 ers can know what feelings the inquiry will excite. 
 Our own were of a nature exceedingly mixed. There 
 was something pleasant, to be sure, in the fact that we 
 were able to answer all anxious inquiries in person ; 
 but it was not without a slight misgiving as to our 
 chances in perspective that we hastily recounted the 
 particulars of our recent fortunate escape from a death 
 that seemed almost inevitable. 
 
 On the following day we learned the name of the 
 gentleman who had questioned us, and the reasons 
 which had induced him to suppose us dead. It seems 
 
76 
 
 A HOME-LIKE BREAKFAST. 
 
 that Colonel Cooke and Dr. Brenham had reported that 
 we were shot at San Miguel, with Howland and his 
 unfortunate companions, believing such to be the case 
 from the statements made to them while in New Mex- 
 ico, and from the fact that we were not seen by any of 
 them nor marched in their company towards the capi- 
 tal. The name of the gentleman who first visited us at 
 the hospital was Dr. Jennison, a native of New-Eng- 
 land, but at that time the principal conductor of the 
 mint at Chihuahua. He has since paid the debt of na- 
 ture ; but the memory of his courteous and gentlemanly 
 manners, and of his kindness and exceeding liberality 
 in furnishing the prisoners with shoes and other articles 
 of which they stood in utmost need, still lives in the 
 hearts of those he befriended. 
 
 Our visiters had scarcely left us before clean mat- 
 tresses and sheets were brought to our room, and com- 
 fortable beds made, after which we passed a quiet night 
 in sleep. The next morning an English gentleman sent 
 us in a sumptuous breakfast — >the first really substantial 
 meal I had seen since I left the United States. It con- 
 sisted of plain beefsteak, tender and of delicious flavour, 
 baked Irish potatoes and most excellent bread, with a 
 generous supply of coffee. The Mexican servant who 
 brought it informed us that the gentlemen who had 
 called upon us the previous evening would endeavour 
 to see and converse with us during the day ; and one 
 of them, passing our door in the course of the morning, 
 said that so soon as our depositions were taken in rela- 
 tion to the prisoner confined next door, the foreigners 
 would all be permitted to visit us. We were still left 
 in profound ignorance as to the name of the unfortunate 
 man, or the nature of the charge against him ; but the 
 whole story was soon to be told. 
 
A MYSTERIOUS PRISONER. 
 
 77 
 
 Although there was no entrance to the interior of the 
 square, on one side of which we were confined, save 
 through a large archway from the street, we were not 
 allowed even to cross this yard unaccompanied by one 
 of the sentinels. While passing a gateway near the 
 entrance to the kitchen, a dragoon trailing close at my 
 heels, I encountered, face to face, the prisoner confined 
 in the dungeon adjoining our apartment. He was 
 dressed in a green blanket coat, with black collar and 
 cuffs, had large, black whiskers, and wore his hair ex- 
 tremely long, and although his complexion at the time 
 appeared dark, his face was extremely pale. I was 
 about to accost him, when he gave me a look that ap- 
 peared to be so full of mingled scorn, hatred, and en- 
 mity, that I was for a moment chilled into silence. I 
 may have mistaken its expression, or he might deem it 
 prudent to act thus coldly and strangely in the presence 
 of Mexican witnesses ; but at the time I felt confident 
 that he considered himself indebted to us for his suffer- 
 ings and the loss of his liberty — I thought there was no 
 mistaking that black scowl he gave me as I passed him. 
 
 Ignorant alike of his name, business, and the circum- 
 stances of his arrest, and conscious of my own inno- 
 cence in the matter, I had no sooner passed him than I 
 was extremely anxious to come to some explanation ; 
 but my watchful guard would allow no communication, 
 and I was forced onward without a chance to justify 
 myself from the erroneous impressions under which I 
 thought he must be labouring. Two soldiers accom- 
 panied the prisoner, and he was shortly locked up in 
 his gloomy cell. 
 
 This accidental meeting, which troubled me not a 
 little, was early in the morning. Towards noon, the 
 mystery which veiled our neighbour was dispelled. 
 
 G 2 
 
78 
 
 THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 
 
 The secretary of Governor Conde, accompanied by an- 
 other officer of state and a Mexican lawyer who under- 
 stood a little English, arrived at our quarters to take 
 depositions in relation to the case of Captain Dryden, 
 which turned out to be the name of the prisoner. It 
 seems that he had been mentioned in some of the papers 
 of the Texan Commissioners as a man whom they might 
 consult on reaching New Mexico. When the expedi- 
 tion arrived in the neighbourhood of Santa Fe, Captain 
 D. was residing in Chihuahua. On receiving the intel- 
 ligence of his name being found among the Texan pa- 
 pers, the authorities caused him to be arrested and con- 
 fined in chains in the strongest dungeon of the place. 
 
 On the arrival of the persons appointed to take our 
 depositions, General McLeod, Messrs. Yan Ness, Fal- 
 coner, and myself were called from the room, and Mr. 
 Navarro was examined alone. Afterward General 
 McLeod was taken into the room and questioned in pri- 
 vate, the Mexican officers taking every precaution to 
 prevent anything like collusion. Mr. Van Ness was 
 next examined, and the testimony of all taken down in 
 writing — as Mr. Falconer and myself knew nothing qf 
 the prisoner, we were not examined. The testimony of 
 all went to show that they knew nothing of Mr. Dry- 
 den — that his name might have appeared among the 
 papers, but that it was probably without his consent — 
 at all events, he was in no way identified with the Santa 
 Fe Expedition, so far as they were concerned. The 
 effect of this testimony was to procure the release of the 
 prisoner from chains, to give him a greater degree of 
 personal liberty, and his American friends were after- 
 ward allowed to converse with him. Some twelve 
 months afterward, as I have been pleased to learn, Cap- 
 tain Dryden was released from confinement through 
 
LUXURIES AND COMFORTS. 
 
 79 
 
 the intervention of our minister at Mexico, General 
 Waddy Thompson. 
 
 Scarcely had the officers of state left our room before 
 an excellent dinner, comprising a great variety of Mex- 
 ican dishes, with two bottles of Champagne, was sent to 
 us by the Seriora Magoffin, wife of the merchant who 
 had furnished us with the coffee and other luxuries at 
 San Miguel, and whom We had afterward passed on the 
 road to El Paso. We had not the pleasure of seeing 
 the senora, but she was represented to us as a kind- 
 hearted, affable, and exceedingly well-informed woman, 
 a Mexican by birth. Mr. Navarro was acquainted with 
 her, she having lived at San Antonio de Bexar prior to 
 the Texan Revolution, and I believe he received per- 
 mission to call upon her while we were in Chihuahua. 
 Two or three of her children, tine, intelligent boys, call- 
 ed upon us daily at meal-times, for their mother furnish- 
 ed us regularly with three meals a day, having obtained 
 permission from the governor to that effect. 
 
 After dinner, we were visited by nearly all the Amer- 
 icans and foreigners in the place, the governor having 
 no objection to their calling upon us after the testimony 
 in relation to Captain Dryden had been taken. They 
 offered us every attention and kindness, and supplied us 
 with books and writing materials, as well as clean 
 clothing. From this place I wrote letters to Mr. Ellis, 
 then our minister at Mexico, and to my friends in the 
 United States. A part of these letters only reached 
 their destinations ; but as the larger portion of them 
 were written with the belief that they might possibly 
 fall into the hands of the Mexicans, I was guarded in 
 my language, and cared but little whether they ever got 
 safe through or not. 
 
 Among other papers, brought to our room by the 
 
80 
 
 A VALIANT EDITOR. 
 
 foreigners, was a copy of La Luna, a small weekly 
 sheet published at Chihuahua. It contained a letter 
 from Armijo to Governor Conde, giving him the num- 
 ber and rank of the prisoners. The last sentence of this 
 letter was in substance as follows: “You will please 
 guard with especial care Senors Navarro, McLeod, 
 Cooke, Brenham, and Kendall, on account of their su- 
 perior intelligence, standing, and influence.” Here I 
 was expressly implicated as one of the leaders of the 
 expedition, and for this I at once supposed that I was 
 indebted to the traitor Lewis. Armijo, as I well knew, 
 contemplated giving me my liberty at San Miguel — the 
 reasons for his not doing so were obvious. Lewis was 
 probably fearful that I should be in his way at Santa 
 Fe, and accordingly made such statements to Armijo as 
 induced him to send me to Mexico as a prisoner of im- 
 portance. It had the effect of ensuring me better treat- 
 ment upon the road, if nothing else ; for the Mexicans 
 invariably treat their more important prisoners with the 
 greater deference. 
 
 The same paper contained several stirring appeals, 
 both in prose and verse, to the known patriotism and 
 valour of the citizens of Chihuahua ! An immediate in- 
 vasion of Texas was urged, with all the force that can 
 be infused through the Spanish language into a war 
 proclamation. To drive the usurping Texans from a 
 soil which did not belong to them, to sweep them from 
 the face of the earth as with a whirlwind, was set down 
 as the easiest thing imaginable, especially when the oft- 
 tried and impetuous bravery of the Chihuahua soldiers 
 was brought to bear upon them. When it is consider- 
 ed that the inhabitants of that city are really prisoners 
 within their own walls, hardly daring to venture outside 
 on account of the hordes of Apache and Camanche war- 
 
MORE OF THE TRAITOR LEWIS. 
 
 81 
 
 riors continually prowling in their vicinity, the idea of 
 an invasion of Texas from that quarter is somewhat lu- 
 dicrous. But the editor had seen evidences that the 
 Texans were not absolutely invincible ; he had seen 
 some three hundred half-starved prisoners from that 
 country marched by his doors, and his long-pent-up and 
 furious wrath found vent, on paper, in a laughable tis- 
 sue of bombast and gasconade. The same paper, too, 
 contained a stirring appeal from some poetical corre- 
 spondent to a favourite gray horse, imploring said horse 
 to start immediately with him to the bloodstained prai- 
 ries of Texas, and when there to ride down, run over, 
 and trample under foot the Texan heretics until not 
 even one was left. Of the two, I am strongly inclined 
 to believe that the animal was much more ready to un- 
 dertake the perilous journey than the man. 
 
 From conversations I have had with several Ameri- 
 can merchants, who are engaged in the Santa Fe and 
 Chihuahua trade, and who visited the United States du- 
 ring the summer of 1843, 1 have learned the movements 
 of Lewis since the capture of the expedition. On his 
 arrival at Santa Fe the foreigners treated him with much 
 coolness and distrust, convinced that he had acted bad- 
 ly, although not aware of the extent of his treachery. 
 No positive insults were offered him, but Lewis was 
 soon led to imagine that his countrymen suspected 
 him of some agency in inducing Colonel Cooke to sur- 
 render, and with this belief he quietly and secretly start- 
 ed for Chihuahua. This city, in which he had lived 
 several years, he entered in the night, and at once pre- 
 sented himself to one of his former intimate friends and 
 associates. The meeting, so far as the latter was con- 
 cerned, was far from cordial — the whilom friend of the 
 traitor had heard of his perfidy, and at once advised 
 
82 
 
 THE REWARD OP TREACHERY. 
 
 him to leave Chihuahua if he would escape the just in- 
 dignation of the foreign population. 
 
 But Lewis could not or would not believe that a mark 
 had thus been set upon him, and accordingly, on the fol- 
 lowing morning, openly walked the streets, apparently 
 resolved to retreat no farther, but brave public opinion 
 on the spot. While a clerk in the place, he had gained 
 the good-will and esteem of the residents, many of 
 whom were still there, and when, in company with the 
 brave but unfortunate Howland, he had left to join the 
 revolutionists in Texas, somewhere about the year 1835 , 
 no one bore a better name or reputation ; now, the ta- 
 bles were turned. His former associates treated him 
 coldly and with suspicion, either cutting him directly, or 
 plainly manifesting that all their former confidence and 
 friendship were lost. Lewis saw and felt this, and that 
 very evening was on the road to the Pacific. 
 
 His bad name, however, had travelled faster than him- 
 self, for, arrived at Guaymas, he found the same cold- 
 ness and distrust on the part of the foreign residents — 
 the mark, even here, was upon him. His advances 
 were repulsed, his society avoided, and as if to flee from 
 himself, he embarked for the Sandwich Islands. From 
 thence, under an assumed name, he is known to have 
 sailed for Valparaiso, or some other port on the South 
 American coast, and since then nothing farther has been 
 heard from him. 
 
 Judging from his previous conduct, I cannot believe 
 that Lewis was aware of the enormity of his offence 
 until he saw the disposition made of Colonel Cooke and 
 his former friends and associates by Armijo. He did 
 not lack good sense, but he lacked resolution — a fact 
 which the quick eye of Armijo at once saw, and which he 
 immediately turned to his own advantage. In Lewis 
 
VISIT FROM A FRENCH LADY. 
 
 83 
 
 he found an instrument upon whose fears he could play, 
 and by threats probably converted him into a tool where- 
 with to work his treacherous and cowardly schemes. 
 On awaking to a full realization of the extent of his 
 crime, the same lack of resolution prevented Lewis from 
 seeking to undo the black web of treachery in which he 
 was entangled, but rather induced him to the commis- 
 sion of farther acts of a like nature and of almost equal 
 atrocity. How often does the heedless first offence lead 
 to the commission of well-matured and more heinous 
 crimes — crimes at the bare thought of which the perpe- 
 trator would at first revolt with horror, but which he 
 soon deems necessary to cover the original sin and for- 
 tify his present precarious position. So it is in nine 
 cases out of ten, so it was with Lewis : but I must leave 
 this dark subject, and return to the Salon los Distingui- 
 dos. 
 
 On the evening of the 26th of November, we were 
 visited by a lively, chattering little French woman, who 
 came accompanied by a pretty and intelligent Mexican 
 girl, a native of the place, and belonging to one of the 
 first families. The former was some twenty-eight or 
 thirty years of age, not handsome, but extremely naive 
 and entertaining, and speaking four or five languages 
 with much fluency. 
 
 Her visit lasted nearly an hour, during which she ran 
 on with the greatest volubility — evincing no little emo- 
 tion at the recital of our sufferings* and then laughing 
 merrily as some ludicrous circumstance would be rela- 
 ted. She gave us a short history of herself — a history 
 which showed that her life had been eventful. She had 
 travelled the world over, and finally had settled down 
 at that most out-of-the-way place, Chihuahua. There 
 she was assisting her husband, a German druggist, in 
 
84 PREPARATIONS FOR A LONG JOURNEY. 
 
 his shop, and teaching music and the languages to the 
 rising generation of her own sex. She talked to us and 
 appeared to look upon us as her countrymen, and this 
 is the light in which we were held by all the foreigners 
 whom we encountered in Mexico. The kindest feel- 
 ings were manifested towards us by the English, Irish, 
 and Scotch, and also by the French and Germans we 
 met on our sorrowful journey. They manifested the 
 liveliest emotions of pity at our unfortunate situation, 
 and extended to us a sympathy that appeared to spring 
 from genuine fraternal feelings. 
 
 Our departure from Chihuahua was fixed for the 
 next day after the interview with the little French 
 woman, a fact we had no sooner learned than we set 
 about making preparations for the long journey. A 
 young merchant from Massachusetts offered me every 
 assistance in the way of money, clothing, or necessa- 
 ries. Of the former I had a sufficiency ; but not wish- 
 ing to expend it, I accepted his kind offer so far as to 
 purchase some clothing, chocolate, piloncillas* and other 
 little luxuries for the road, for which I gave him drafts. 
 Doctor Jennison gave each of the Texans a pair of 
 shoes and a tin cup, and in addition to this a large sup- 
 ply of clothing and blankets was purchased of an 
 American merchant for the use of the Texan soldiers, 
 besides several mules for the officers to ride. For 
 these, drafts on the Texan government were given by 
 General McLeod and Mr. Navarro. The situation of 
 all the prisoners was materially improved by this sea- 
 sonable supply, and the long journey to Mexico still be- 
 fore us was robbed of many of its terrors by the fact 
 
 * The pilmtiUo is a small loaf of coarse brown sugar, manufactured in the 
 middle districts of Mexico, weighing some pound and a half. I think I 
 have given the word the correct spelling. 
 
EDITORIAL TROUBLES. 
 
 85 
 
 that we were now in a condition better to encounter its 
 hardships. 
 
 After partaking of an excellent dinner on the 27th of 
 November, provided as usual by Mrs. Magoffin, we 
 took our leave of Chihuahua and our kind friends. I 
 cannot depart from this city, however, without relating 
 one little circumstance which did not help me forward 
 much in the estimation of the more ignorant among the 
 native inhabitants. Some old meddling busybody of 
 a Mexican, whose name I have now forgotten, got up 
 a small breeze of excitement by saying that in the pa- 
 per I published at New-Orleans I had called the great 
 Mexican people a nation of brutes — quadrupeds was 
 the term he used. I had no recollection, at the time, of 
 ever having applied any such term to the people of 
 Mexico, but thought that if ever the opportunity occur- 
 red, I most certainly should, at least to a portion of 
 them. I should be loath to insult the larger part of the 
 brute creation by comparing them with the inhabitants 
 of New Mexico, always making a few honourable ex- 
 ceptions. The hyenas, wolves, and jackals can find 
 innumerable kindred spirits on two legs north of El 
 Paso del Norte, and many of them even south of that 
 place. But to return to our departure from Chihua- 
 hua. 
 
 Mr. Navarro had a brother-in-law, a colonel in the 
 Mexican service, who had sent an order to a friend in 
 Chihuahua to furnish him with a carriage and pair of 
 mules. A Mexican officer had informed our little party 
 that we were to be furnished with transportation as far 
 as Cerro Gordo, a small town some two hundred miles 
 distant ; but on starting we found that he had disap- 
 pointed us, and that we were again to proceed on foot. 
 The horse furnished me by the kind-hearted cura of El 
 
 Yol. II.— H 
 
86 
 
 AN ECCENTRIC PONY. 
 
 Paso was completely worn down and unable to travel, 
 and I determined to purchase another if possible. 
 
 The entire population of the place turned out to see 
 us off, the streets on both sides being lined, as usual, 
 with the lower orders of men, women, and children. 
 The foreigners, too, rode out some little distance, and I 
 had an opportunity of seeing nearly every one of them, 
 with the exception of the gentleman who had furnished 
 me with clothing. We were to proceed but a few miles 
 the first evening ; I therefore asked one of the Ameri- 
 cans to inform my friend in the city that I was in want 
 of a horse, saddle, and bridle, and at the same time de- 
 sire him to send them out early the next morning. This 
 he promised to do, and then bade us farewell. 
 
 At dark we encamped by the roadside, and at a 
 place where there was neither wood nor water. The 
 night was extremely raw and cold, and we were again 
 compelled to take lodgings upon the ground ; but as we 
 were now well provided with clothing and blankets, our 
 situation was far more comfortable than even between 
 El Paso and Chihuahua. 
 
 Early the next morning a servant arrived from my 
 friend in town, bringing me a strong and very servicea- 
 ble Mexican pony. He was wild and frisky as a mus- 
 tang at my first approach, performed a variety of un- 
 seemly antics, and for some time manifested a set deter- 
 mination not to allow me the innocent little familiarity 
 of bestriding him. A ragged, grim-visaged Mexican, 
 with an expression of countenance sinister enough to 
 frighten any well-bred animal from his propriety, would 
 walk directly up to and mount him without the least 
 trouble ; but the moment I undertook such a liberty he 
 would sheer off, jump and kick about “ like mad,” and 
 keep such distance between us as a twenty-foot rope 
 
MEXICAN SADDLES. 
 
 87 
 
 would admit. At one time he wound me up in the rope, 
 threw me down, and came near injuring me seriously ; 
 and it was not until I had made repeated efforts that I 
 succeeded in reaching the saddle. Once there, I per- 
 mitted him to show off his eccentricities ad libitum ; but 
 after snorting, shying, rearing, pitching, dancing, and 
 capering about for some five minutes, and whirling in 
 circles, much to the amusement of a score of half-clad 
 Mexicans, he finally cooled down into an easy, mincing 
 pace, and I ever after found him a very well-behaved 
 and extremely serviceable animal. I have just remark- 
 ed that the Mexicans were amused on my first effect- 
 ing a lodgment upon the back of the horse. In truth, it 
 was my first appearance in one of their saddles, and my 
 horsemanship probably partook more of the awkward 
 than the graceful on the occasion. At all events, I did 
 not feel that perfect security which is agreeable as I 
 mounted upon a saddle of a shape I was entirely unused 
 to, with a horse under it displaying a variety of any- 
 thing but gentle antics and curvettings. I attempted to 
 act with perfect indifference, but I am far from denying 
 that I had serious misgivings all the while, lest by some 
 extra feat of the horse I should be compelled to leave 
 him in that unceremonious manner which is generally 
 styled, among jockeys, “ being thrown.” 
 
 To one unaccustomed to the Mexican saddle it is ex- 
 tremely awkward, and far from being easy at first ; but 
 when once habituated to its use,' it is almost invariably 
 preferred to those of English or American manufacture. 
 The rider has more command over himself, sits easier 
 and steadier, and is far less liable to be thrown. The 
 one I purchased with the horse, at Chihuahua, I rode to 
 within twelve miles of the city of Mexico, and on after- 
 ward mounting an English saddle I felt unsteady, and 
 
88 
 
 AMERICAN WAGON DRIVERS. 
 
 like being thrown from it every moment. • For the 
 horse and saddle I gave a draft, written upon a piece of 
 paper resting on my hat, and oddly enough, this draft, 
 with others I gave the same person while in Chihuahua, 
 reached the city of New-Orleans on the very day I my- 
 self arrived : while I travelled by way of the city of 
 Mexico, subject to slight detention upon the road, the 
 draft came by way of Santa Fe, the immense West- 
 ern Praii'ies, and St. Louis — in all a distance of nearly 
 four thousand miles. 
 
 On the night of the 28th of November, and an ex- 
 tremely cold night it was, we reached El Ojito, a poor 
 hacienda where we could obtain no accommodations 
 in-doors. We passed three or four wagons during the 
 day, loaded with piloncillos and dry goods, on the way 
 from Parras to Chihuahua. The drivers of these wag- 
 ons were Americans, stalwart and robust men,, who had 
 strayed thus far by way of Santa Fe. They informed 
 us that Colonel Cooke’s party were some three weeks 
 in advance of us, and taking the road towards Durango; 
 well treated on the road, and generally in good health. 
 They manifested no little astonishment that so large a 
 party of Americans had been taken prisoners by a pop- 
 ulation so contemptible as that of New Mexico ; but 
 when we informed them of the treachery of Lewis, and 
 our previous starvation and sufferings, they appeared 
 better to understand the matter. After a conversation 
 of some ten minutes with these men, we were forced to 
 pursue our journey. 
 
 The night of the 29th of November we passed at an- 
 other small and poor rancho, the name of which I have 
 forgotten. On the afternoon of the next day we reach- 
 ed the village of San Pablo. The inhabitants, number- 
 ing some ten or twelve hundred, all flocked out to see 
 
A HORSE-THIEF PUNISHED. 
 
 89 
 
 us on our approach, for the officer who now had charge 
 of us, a dapper little major of the redoubtable Chihua- 
 hua militia, had heralded our approach by the clangour 
 of two badly-blown trumpets. He was a proud and ig- 
 norant fellow, extremely fond of display, and I have no 
 doubt honestly thought himself a very great man. Our 
 old friend Ochoa Was still with us, however, acting as 
 a man-of-all-work, and from him we invariably received 
 every kindness and attention. I have entirely forgotten 
 the little major’s name, else I might make farther men- 
 tion of him, and the many annoyances we were subject- 
 ed to while under his charge.* 
 
 On one side of the principal plaza of San Pablo, which 
 was entered through a large and heavy gate, Ochoa 
 had provided rooms for the principal officers and mer- 
 chants, while the men were compelled to occupy the 
 centre of the square, with no shelter from the weather. 
 This was the case on nearly the entire march, the men 
 
 * This petty little tyrant frequently beat his own men most, unmercifully 
 with the flat of his sword, and almost invariably without provocation. The 
 half-clad, sandalled, and ill-fed wretches stood in continual fear of him, while 
 from Ochoa they experienced the kindest treatment and all becoming respect. 
 
 I never saw the latter strike but one man, a New Mexican horse-thief, who 
 doubtless well deserved the severe castigation' he received. While journey- 
 ing between El Paso and Chihuahua we met a party of New Mexican traders 
 on their way from Sonora to Santa Fe. One of them was mounted upon a 
 miserable hack, raw-boned and rough-coated, and to give the horse an addi- 
 tional forlorn appearance, his mane and tail had been close shaved. The 
 unhealed mark of a fresh brand was also seen upon the animal — a mark 
 which not one of us would have noticed, but which the eagle eye of Ochoa 
 at once detected. The fellow was commanded to halt, half a minute’s ex- 
 amination convincing our captain that the fresh brand had been placed over 
 a former mark. Another minute was sufficient to assure Ochoa that the 
 horse had been stolen, and that he was really the property of the government 
 in disguise. The thief was instantly dragged from the animal, and the next 
 moment a shower of blows from Ochoa’s sword was falling upon his back. 
 With perfect indifference did we look upon this scene, and I doubt whether 
 a single Texan prisoner would have shed a tear had the New Mexican horse 
 thief received a blow at every step between El Paso and Santa Fe. 
 
 H 2 
 
90 
 
 falconer’s choice of a nag. 
 
 sleeping in the open air except in the large cities, where 
 convents or other spacious buildings could be obtained 
 for their reception. Generally, I am inclined to think, 
 the Texan soldiers had the best of it. They suffered 
 occasionally from the cold ; but nine times out of ten 
 the officers found their rooms overrun with fleas and 
 chinches, besides innumerable other vermin, the names 
 of which I do not care to mention. Little did I think, 
 on first leaving the United States, that my vestments 
 were ever to afford harbour and shelter for swarms of 
 insects of the most loathsome description ; but imprison- 
 ment and misfortune bring strange companionships. 
 They enabled me to get a practical knowledge upon 
 entomological subjects, of which before I did not under- 
 stand even the theory. 
 
 While at San Pablo, Mr. Falconer and others ex- 
 pressed a wish to purchase horses for the journey. But 
 a few minutes elapsed before several nags were paraded 
 in the square, their Mexican riders mounting, spurring, 
 and showing them off in every pace and to every possible 
 advantage. At this game the Mexican jockey is far more 
 expert than his brother of the same calling even in York- 
 shire or Yankeeland. Mr. Falconer, after having tried 
 several, finally made choice, as was his wont in the selec- 
 tion of horseflesh, of a discreet and very well-behaved an- 
 imal, for which, with a saddle and bridle, he paid twenty- 
 four dollars. The nag was considerably advanced in 
 years, set in his ways withal, and notable for taking a jog 
 to suit his own convenience, regardless alike of whip and 
 spur and other incentives to rapid locomotion ; but then 
 he was fat and strong, and as his purchaser chose him 
 rather for use and comfort than show or fancy, he made 
 an excellent bargain. Two or three other ponies were 
 purchased at the same time, and at prices varying from 
 
AN ESCAPE PROJECTED. 
 
 91 
 
 ten to fifteen dollars apiece, the purchasers having ob- 
 tained small loans of money while at Chihuahua. 
 
 Leaving San Pablo early on the morning of the 1st 
 of December, we were enabled to reach Saucillo the 
 same night, although the distance was more than ten 
 leagues. The only business carried on at Saucillo is 
 the manufacture of lead, there being a mine of that 
 mineral in the immediate vicinity. There are but few 
 inhabitants, and they are wretchedly poor and ignorant. 
 
 At this place the plan of an escape was agitated by 
 a number of the bravest spirits among our officers and 
 men, and although opposed by others, was finally deter- 
 mined upon. The plan was to seize upon the guard 
 the next morning, shortly after starting, disarm them at 
 once, and then make a forced march for the Rio Grande. 
 It failed from a want of unanimity, and from the im- 
 possibility of inducing every person to keep the station 
 assigned him. Our guard usually marched on either 
 side of us, and although they were tolerably well arm- 
 ed, we outnumbered them. We could have seized upon 
 and disarmed them with the greatest ease, and prob- 
 ably not a man would have been killed on either side 
 in the scuffle ; but it is extremely problematical wheth- 
 er any of the Texans would ever have reached home 
 had the plan been carried out. Between us and the 
 Rio Grande ran a ridge of bold, steep, and in many 
 places impassable mountains ; the plains were covered 
 with thick and scraggy thornbushes, rendering the 
 travel extremely slow and painful at every step ; the 
 exact route and distance were unknown to any one, 
 and there was no certainty that water or provisions 
 could be found on the route. I have enumerated but 
 few of the difficulties to be encountered, and from what 
 I have since learned of the country between our road 
 
92 
 
 WHY NOT ATTEMPTED. 
 
 and the Rio Grande, by the route we should have ta- 
 ken, I am led to believe that hardly a man would have 
 got through alive. 
 
 , Mr. Navarro opposed the scheme, and mainly by 
 reason of his opposition it- fell through. He was so 
 lame that he could neither walk nor ride on horseback, 
 and it was utterly impossible to go with his carriage 
 across the rough and broken mountains. His own de- 
 struction would have been inevitable, and this he told 
 the men. He farther stated that not a man, with the 
 single exception of himself, would be detained six 
 months in Mexico ; that we should endanger the safety 
 of Colonel Cooke’s party by an escape, and be certain 
 to bring about his own death, as the exasperated Mex- 
 icans would shoot him on the spot. Few of our men 
 believed his words ; but, as matters have since turned 
 out, the old gentleman spoke with a spirit of prophecy 
 — he alone has been kept in prison at the city of Mex- 
 ico, while all the others have been liberated.* 
 
 During the night we spent at Saucillo a man named 
 Larrabee died in one of the carts. He was the same 
 person whom Major Howard had pursued upon the 
 prairies, mistaking him for an Indian, and it was said 
 that poor L. never got over the fright of that singular 
 chase. When first discovered in the morning, the body 
 of the man was perfectly cold ; but Captain Ochoa ask- 
 ed Dr. Whittaker, our surgeon, to examine him, and see 
 
 * The attempt since made by the prisoners captured at Mier, in which 
 both Brenham and Fitzgerald were killed, proves, beyond doubt, that we 
 must either have been all retaken or have starved to death. The Mier prison- 
 ers were successful in securing all the arms of their guard after a short 
 struggle, and this, too, at a point much nearer and more accessible to the 
 Rio Grande than ours at the time of our contemplated escape. The former 
 were finally retaken, half starved, in the mountains, and what were left after 
 a barbarous decimation were marched to the city of Mexico, ironed, and 
 compelled to work in the streets. 
 
A MUSICAL BOY. 
 
 93 
 
 if he was “ dead enough to bury /” Singular as was 
 this expression, I believe I have given the captain’s own 
 words. He had heard of the horrible barbarities prac- 
 tised between San Miguel and El Paso — knew that the 
 ears of some of our unfortunate comrades were cut off 
 by Salezar before they were yet dead, and that their 
 bodies were thrown by the roadside unburied, to be de- 
 voured by wolves — he had heard all this, and the kind- 
 hearted man was anxious to pay every respect now 
 that one of the prisoners had died while he had charge 
 of us. Poor Larrabee was buried by the roadside at 
 Saucillo, and sorrowful enough were the faces of those 
 present at his funeral ; but the eyes of kindred, of those 
 who would have bedewed his grave with tears, were 
 far from the scene. 
 
 After a tedious day’s march, we reached, just at 
 night, a corn-field near La Cruz, and here encamped. 
 During the evening we were visited by a young lad 
 from a rancho close by, who brought with him a harp 
 of his own manufacture. He had learned to play upon 
 this instrument without a teacher, and ^although he 
 could not be more than ten or twelve years of age, his 
 execution was really good, and his style that of a mas- 
 ter. The Mexicans generally are extremely fond of 
 music, and great numbers of the men can strum the 
 mandolin, a species of small guitar, and give the rude 
 airs of the country with much skill and effect. They 
 play from the ear alone — not one in a hundred of them, 
 in all probability, could tell a note of music from the 
 hieroglyphics on some of the old ruins of his country. 
 
 About noon, on the 3d of December, we arrived at 
 Santa Rosalia, a pleasant town situated upon a pure, 
 swift-running stream of water. As was universally the 
 custom, the entire population — men, women, and chil- 
 
94 
 
 MIGHT MAKES RIGHT. 
 
 dren — assembled in the streets through which we pass- 
 ed, and gathered in great numbers in the plaza where 
 we were ordered to encamp. We had scarcely halted, 
 before the alcalde arrived and invited our little party 
 of officers and merchants to a dinner at his own house. 
 He was evidently a poor man, and his dinner was far 
 from being as sumptuous as many I have seen ; but we 
 were waited upon by his two daughters, one of whom 
 was a blooming, blushing, bouncing girl of sixteen, and 
 the tortillas and frijoles held out until all of us were 
 satisfied. 
 
 Next morning, and just as I had saddled my horse, a 
 couple of Mexicans stepped forward and claimed him 
 as belonging to them. They said that he had been 
 stolen some two months before, and after proving prop- 
 erty, were about taking him off without paying me 
 any of the charges or expenses I had been at on his 
 account. I appealed to Captain Ochoa, and told him 
 the circumstances of my purchasing the horse of an 
 American friend at Chihuahua. That the animal be- 
 longed to the two men who claimed him there was not 
 the least doubt — they pointed out brands, marks, and 
 numbers, and proved the fact of his having been stolen, 
 by a statement under the alcalde’s own hand and seal — 
 but Captain Ochoa decided the case in my favour, told 
 me to mount him, and turning to his owners, gave them 
 leave to whistle for their property, or look to the per- 
 son who had sold him to me. I am far from justifying 
 the decision of Captain Ochoa, although I profited by 
 it ; I only mention the circumstance to show that the 
 military power in Mexico tramples upon the civil — that 
 there might makes right. 
 
 I was extremely fearful that the fellows would fol- 
 low us and steal back their property ; but Captain 
 
ROADSIDE GRAVES. 
 
 95 
 
 Ochoa placed a special sentinel over the horse at night — 
 had it not been for this watchfulness, I should probably 
 have found myself on foot the next morning. 
 
 By making an early start from Santa Rosalia on the 
 4th of December we were enabled to reach a small 
 rancho before nightfall, encamping in the open field 
 near the roadside, for we had no desire to enter the 
 miserable adobe huts of the inhabitants. Immediately 
 in the rear of the place stood four or five crosses, new 
 and recently put up, marking the places where that 
 number of the little population had been killed by the 
 dreaded Apaches some week or two before. 
 
 The traveller on the great thoroughfare between 
 Santa Fe and the city of Mexico, in fact on every road 
 throughout the country, meets numbers of these rude 
 wooden crosses on every day’s journey. Whenever a 
 man is murdered his friends erect a cross, and frequent- 
 ly the name of the murdered person is cut with a knife 
 upon the transverse part, together with his age, the 
 date of his death, and any little circumstance of note at- 
 tending it. Around the foot is a heap of small stones, 
 brought thither by friends ; and the importance of the 
 murdered person, as well as the number of prayers 
 which have been said for his repose, may be learned 
 by the size of the pile. Many stories of romantic in- 
 terest were told us, by our gossiping guard, of these 
 roadside graves and their occupants, but I have now 
 forgotten them. Should the traveller treasure up all 
 the strange tales, wild legends, and superstitious tradi- 
 tions related to him in Mexico, he would soon have his 
 head full. For the most part they are entirely desti- 
 tute of foundation, for the Mexicans have very fertile 
 imaginations, and are sadly addicted to dealing in the 
 marvellous and romantic. 
 
96 
 
 UNWELCOME HOSPITALITY. 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 Arrival at Guajuaquilla. — An Invitation. — Inhospitable Hospitality. — A little 
 Mexican Lawyer. — His Self-importance. — A disagreeable Night. — Our 
 Companions fare better.— Again on the Road. — Rejoicing at Guajuaquilla. 
 — Tricks of a Wag. — Amusing Anecdote. — Montezuma’s Brother. — Arrival 
 at El Rio Florido. — General Pike.— The Hacienda of LaNoria. — Its former 
 Wealth and present Condition. — Inroads of the Apaches and Camanches. 
 — A young Irishman. — Visited by pretty Girls. — A well-informed Mexican 
 Lady. — Musical Soiree and Dancing. — Change of Scene. — Arrival at Cerro 
 Gordo, in the State of Durango. — Our new Commander, Colonel Velasco, 
 pointed out to us. — His sinister Appearance.— Visited by a Frenchwoman, 
 — A Fandango and Cock-fight. — Departure from Cerro Gordo. — A genera. 
 Turn-out of the Inhabitants. — Suspicions in relation to Ochoa’s Integrity. 
 — Our new Guard of Dragoons. — Their Treatment of the Prisoners. — Hon- 
 ourable Conduct of Ochoa. — A roadside Camp. — Colonel Velasco’s Char- 
 acter begins to develope itself.— Excellent Provisions provided. — Large 
 Droves of Horses passed. — An immense Hacienda.— Former Wealth of the 
 Proprietress. — Condition of the Peons, or W orking Classes of Mexico. — 
 Farther Insight into the Character of Velasco. — The Texan Officers allow- 
 ed their Parole. 
 
 The night of the 6th of December was passed, agree- 
 ably enough, by a majority of the prisoners, at the town 
 of Guajuaquilla, a place of no inconsiderable note in this 
 section of Mexico — but a small party of us were made 
 extremely unhappy by the misnamed hospitality of a 
 whipper-snapper of a lawyer. When within five miles 
 of Guajuaquilla, this little fellow rode up from a rancho 
 near the roadside, and after selecting General McLeod, 
 Messrs. Navarro, Falconer, Van Ness, and myself as 
 his victims, invited us, with much importance, to his 
 dwelling close by, at the same time promising the little 
 major who had charge of us that he would be respon- 
 sible for our appearance on the following morning. 
 There was something haughty and repulsive in the as- 
 pect of the man, and I should have preferred taking the 
 
A PESTILENT LAWYER. 
 
 97 
 
 chances of procuring a good dinner and lodging in 
 Guajuaquilla ; but we were all obliged to accept his 
 proffered hospitality, and I have little doubt the fellow 
 thought he was doing us great honour and conferring a 
 high favour by inviting us to his house. Be this as it 
 may, he made us very uncomfortable. 
 
 At home, we found him a vain, pompous, talkative 
 braggadocio, with a very limited education, and not the 
 least real knowledge of the world. He did not think 
 so himself, of course ; but he thoroughly convinced us 
 of the fact by his desperate endeavours to elevate him- 
 self in our opinions. He recounted the different offices 
 he had held- — said that at one particular time he was 
 a colonel of the militia, an alcalde, a lawyer, and a judge 
 — and that he had put seven men in the stocks in one 
 single day, for daring to dit.?bey his orders. As he thus 
 ran on, he raised himself on ti t toe at every fresh dem- 
 onstration of his own importance and power, and being 
 naturally but about four feet and a half in height, seem- 
 ed endeavouring to elevate himself to the ordinary stand- 
 ard of humanity. He gave us a miserable dinner, worse 
 chocolate in the evening, a shuck bed to sleep upon, a 
 breakfast in the morning which would have been spurn- 
 ed by a dyspeptic Grahamite, and then had the cool im- 
 pudence to ask us if we had ever been treated so well 
 before, and hoped that we might recollect him. I can 
 assure him that he has not been forgotten. In almost 
 every instance where we were invited to the houses of 
 the Mexicans of the higher order, we found them gen- 
 tlemanly in their deportment and extremely good livers 
 — the little coxcomb I have just mentioned was a signal 
 exception. 
 
 After our scanty breakfast he accompanied us into 
 the town, where we found that our companions had 
 
 Vol. II.— I 
 
98 
 
 PATRIOTIC REJOICINGS. 
 
 passed a very agreeable night. They had been ex 
 tremelv well lodged, and had been invited to a fandan- 
 go attended by all the beauty of the town. This in- 
 censed us more than ever against our ignorant, conceit- 
 ed, and mean-spirited host, but there was no help for it. 
 
 Shortly after the arrival of our little party in Guajua- 
 quilla, the march was resumed. The journey that day 
 was short, as we had reached, before noon, a noted 
 stopping-place, where there was a spring in a grove of 
 cotton-wood trees. After sundown it was evident 
 enough that there was a great rejoicing in the town, 
 where our main body had slept the night before. Rock- 
 ets were seen shooting in the air, the report of muskets 
 was heard, and everything denoted that the appearance 
 of such a body of Texan prisoners was enough to arouse 
 the patriotism of the inhabitants, and induce them to 
 celebrate the unusual occurrence by fireworks and oth- 
 er demonstrations. The hand, too, of the little lawyer 
 who had annoyed us the night before, was plainly to be 
 seen in this outpouring of the public feeling ; and I have 
 little doubt he was very officious among squibs, India 
 crackers, Chinese-wbeels, blue fires, and sky-rockets. 
 While I was enjoying what he called his hospitality he 
 gave me his name. I did not think, at the time, that I 
 should ever forget it ; but it has entirely escaped my 
 memory. I hope he will excuse me for not. giving it 
 in full, more particularly when he is informed that it is 
 far from being an intentional slight on my part. 
 
 In a party so large as ours, numbering some hundred 
 and seventy, and composed of persons from almost 
 every Anglo-Saxon settlement under the sun, as a mat- 
 ter of course there were many originals — fellows up to 
 all sorts of mad pranks, and ever ready to play off their 
 tricks when opportunities occurred. Conspicuous among 
 
AN INVETERATE JOKER. 
 
 99 
 
 them was Captain H., a man with great powers of imi- 
 tation, an inexhaustible fund of humour, and a dry man- 
 ner of telling stories and playing off his practical jokes. 
 Poor fellow ! he is now dead ; but the memory of his 
 queer conceits still lives. 
 
 Among us, at the time, was a good-natured, easy, 
 quiet sort of personage from the Western country, 
 whom I shall call D. While nearly every one of the 
 prisoners had picked up Spanish enough to “ get along,” 
 as the saying is, D. never could learn the name even 
 of the commonest utensil or article of food, and the 
 same may be also said of Captain H. The latter, how- 
 ever, in mere fun, had induced D. to believe that he 
 spoke the purest Castilian, and was always ready to 
 interpret everything for him at a moment’s notice. As 
 a consequence, the most ludicrous scenes were of al- 
 most daily occurrence, and the translations of Captain 
 H., while interpreting for his friend, would often drive 
 from our minds the thousand melancholy reflections our 
 forlorn situation could not but suggest. One or two lit- 
 tle circumstances I will relate, which created great mirth 
 at the time. 
 
 We were encamped in the plaza of a small town, the 
 name of which I have forgotten, when a poor woman 
 approached D. with two loaves of bread to sell. She 
 had a reboso on her head, one end of which, drawn 
 over her left shoulder, fell down in front. An infant, 
 not more than three months old, was plainly seen rest- 
 ing upon her left arm, while the hand which held the 
 bread was entirely concealed under the reboso. Ad- 
 dressing D. in Spanish, she asked him if he wished to 
 purchase her bread. 
 
 “ What does she want ?” said D., turning to Cap- 
 tain H. 
 
100 
 
 BUYING A BABY. 
 
 The latter knew just as little of the wishes of the 
 woman as the former ; but his ready wit at once saw 
 that fun could be extracted from the circumstance. 
 Mixing up, therefore, some half dozen unintelligible 
 words — a speech of which D. knew as little as himself, 
 and of which the poor woman was as ignorant as ei- 
 ther — he mumbled them over as though addressing the 
 Mexican in her own language. With an inquiring look 
 she asked H. what he said, while he, without the least 
 knowledge as to the meaning of her question, turned to 
 D. with, 
 
 “ She wishes to know if you don’t want to buy that 
 child.” 
 
 “ The unfeeling brute !” ejaculated D., evidently be- 
 lieving every word of his waggish friend. “ Tell her 
 ‘ No.’ Tell her I’ve got a wife and three children al- 
 ready, and the Lord only knows how they are provided 
 for. What upon earth does she think I want with her 
 child ?” 
 
 I turned away from the spot to conceal my laughter, 
 as did several who were present, and who understood 
 the joke. The perfect seriousness with which the wag 
 carried the whole affair through completely deceived 
 D., and I doubt not he really and honestly thought the 
 woman wanted him to purchase her child. 
 
 But the anecdote to which I allude occurred on the 
 morning when we left our encampment under the cot- 
 ton-wood trees, the 8th of December. We had travel- 
 led but a few miles before we reached a large monu- 
 ment by the roadside, erected, a year or two previous, 
 to the memory of some colonel in the Mexican service. 
 On the side fronting the road was a long inscription in 
 Spanish, detailing the services the occupant of the tomb 
 had rendered in the Mexican Revolution, his exploits in 
 
A TRANSLATION. 
 
 101 
 
 ridding the country of the Spaniards, and his many he- 
 roic, patriotic, and virtuous deeds. While two or three 
 of us were looking at the monument, the two actors in 
 the scene above mentioned came up to examine it. Had 
 the inscription been in Chaldaic, it would have been 
 equally intelligible to either of them ; but D. had the 
 most implicit reliance in H. as a translator of Spanish. 
 
 “ What is all that reading about, captain ?” said D. 
 
 “ On the monument there ?” queried H., evidently 
 studying some kind of speech. 
 
 “ Yes, on the monument there.” 
 
 “ You want me to translate it, D., do you?” 
 
 “ I do.” 
 
 “Well, it amounts to this — Here lies the body of 
 Montezuma’s brother.” 
 
 “ His what ?” said D., opening his eyes. 
 
 “ His brother,” coolly replied the imperturbable H., 
 “ who came to an untimely end, on the 15th of Novem- 
 ber, 1598, by the bite of a rattlesnake. This monu- 
 ment is erected as a testimonial of the high esteem in 
 which he was held by his aunt” 
 
 “His aunt?” inquired D., with emphasis. 
 
 “ By — his — aunt !” answered the wag, slowly and de- 
 liberately uttering each word as though there could be 
 no mistake about it. 
 
 This was too much, and I was obliged to put my 
 horse into a brisk canter in order to reach a place where 
 I could have my laugh out, without raising suspicions in 
 the mind of D. that the whole thing was “ got up” ex- 
 pressly for his benefit. Not a smile could be detected 
 on the countenance of H. while he was giving his ex- 
 tremely free translation, and to judge from outward in- 
 dications his friend swallowed every word of it. 
 
 That night we reached a small hacienda on the Rio 
 I 2 
 
102 
 
 AN IRISH BEAUTY. 
 
 Florido, the place where General Pike left the main road 
 when he was conducted through the interior of Mex- 
 ico. From this point he was escorted out of the coun- 
 try by a detachment of Spanish troops, taking Saltil- 
 lo, San Antonio de Bexar, and Nacogdoches in their 
 route. 
 
 On the next afternoon we arrived at the old and well- 
 known hacienda of La Noria,* where is a deep and 
 never- failing well. From this well the immense herds 
 of sheep, cattle, and horses raised on the estate are 
 supplied, the water being drawn by two mules attached 
 to an apparatus for the purpose. The hacienda of La 
 Noria was formerly very wealthy, yielding a heavy rev- 
 enue to its proprietor ; but of late years the Camanche 
 and Apache Indians have stolen large numbers of horses, 
 cattle, and sheep, as well as grain, from the neighbour- 
 hood, and but a week or two previous to our arrival 
 they had made a descent in the vicinity, killed three or 
 four of the peons, or labourers, and carried off a large 
 quantity of plunder. All over the States of Chihuahua 
 and Durango the inhabitants live in continual dread of 
 these savages. 
 
 At La Noria we met an Irishman, a lad of some 
 eighteen or twenty years of age, who lived at a small 
 village one or two leagues from the road. Two or 
 three young ladies were also on a visit to the hacienda, 
 having come expressly to see us. Their father was an 
 Irishman who had settled early in the country, but their 
 mother was of Mexican birth, and they could speak no 
 other language than hers. All of them were pretty — 
 one was extremely beautiful. She had the dark, ex- 
 pressive eyes, the long, silken lashes, and the rich bru- 
 
 * Signifying, in English, the water-wheel, or wheel by which water is drawn 
 from a well. 
 
BROAD CONTRASTS. 
 
 103 
 
 nette complexion of her mother, while from her father 
 her cheek derived that rosy, healthy tint, which seemed 
 to gain something richer than its native charm when 
 seen struggling, like sunlight, through the soft and beau- 
 tiful brown of a Castilian skin. We at first supposed 
 they could all speak English, hut afterward ascertained 
 that such was not the case. After spending an hour or 
 two at the hacienda they went away, accompanied by 
 their mother and the young Irishman, for their home at 
 the village. 
 
 The lady of the house at La Noria was a well-edu- 
 cated woman, having spent some time at an academy 
 in Durango. She also sang very well, and played upon 
 the guitar admirably. When night came she gave us 
 a fandango, which, before it ended, was turned into a 
 musical soiree, and we really passed a very agreeable 
 evening. She gave us several Spanish ballads with 
 much feeling, and sang, in Italian, an aria from one of 
 Bellini’s operas, showing herself equally conversant with 
 his music and his language. We had several very tol- 
 erable singers among ourselves, and from the song, 
 mirth, and hilarity which prevailed, a spectator could 
 not have supposed that we were prisoners in a strange 
 land, and profoundly ignorant as to the fate that await- 
 ed us. So it was all the way through Mexico. One 
 night we were enjoying ourselves with music and the 
 dance — the next we were shivering over a scanty fire 
 in the open air, and sleeping exposed to such inclemen- 
 cy as the ruler of the elements might see fit to bestow.* 
 The very night after the scenes I have described above 
 
 * Neither the Mexicans nor Indians, even where wood is abundant, build 
 large fires. It is a common remark with the Indians, that the Americans 
 make such large fires that they cannot approach near enough to warm them- 
 selves. 
 
104 
 
 A NEW COMMANDER. 
 
 we were encamped upon a cold hillside within a cou- 
 ple of miles of Cerro Gordo, not a sign of human habi- 
 tation in sight. 
 
 It was with feelings not a little excited that we en- 
 tered the miserable town of Cerro Gordo the next morn- 
 ing. At this place Ochoa was to leave us, and we 
 were to be consigned to a new guard. We were to 
 enter a new state, too, that of Durango, and were ig- 
 norant as to the treatment we might receive from the 
 governor. During our journey through the State of 
 Chihuahua, a distance of some five hundred miles, we 
 had been treated comparatively well ; whether we 
 were to find a continuance of such usage was a matter 
 of great uncertainty, and hence our uneasiness. 
 
 As we were taken through the long street upon 
 which the greater part of the town is built, our new 
 commander, Colonel Velasco, was pointed out to us. 
 At the time, I thought him the most unprepossessing 
 specimen of humanity I had ever met with. He was 
 dressed in a light blue roundabout or short jacket, with 
 a small red cord along the seams and three rows of 
 small silver-plated buttons in front, while his pantaloons 
 were of cloth of the same colour, foxed with green mo- 
 rocco, to prevent his saddle from 'chafing and wearing 
 them. He wore an enormous pair of whiskers, upon 
 which he had apparently bestowed no attention, and 
 his upper lip was disfigured or ornamented — I leave 
 this point for my reader to decide — with a pair of huge, 
 grizzly, coarse mustaches, which stuck out in almost 
 every direction but the right one. His head was cov- 
 ered with a profusion of long, iron-gray hair, but par- 
 tially covered by a small, rakish cap, drawn over his 
 eyes as if to conceal any sinister expression they might 
 have. Such is but an imperfect picture of the man 
 
UNPLEASANT FOREBODINGS. 
 
 105 
 
 who was to have charge of us, and not a person in our 
 party could look at him without a shudder, or without 
 thinking we had fallen into the hands of a second Sale- 
 zar. 
 
 We were taken entirely through the town and con- 
 fined in an old deserted building. Here, upon the walls, 
 were the names of Cooke, Brenham, Frank Combs and 
 others, written by themselves a short month previous. 
 During the afternoon we were visited by numbers of 
 the inhabitants, and also by a lively little French wom- 
 an, who invited several of us to dine at her house. Her 
 husband was dead, having left her a large property, 
 and she evinced the greatest commiseration for our un- 
 fortunate condition, as well as a desire to alleviate it as 
 far as lay in her power. At night several of us went to 
 a fandango and cockfight, accompanied by two or three 
 Mexican officers only as a guard. Everywhere we 
 were treated with the greatest civility, and at a late 
 hour we returned to our quarters and took up our hard 
 lodgings upon the cold earth floor. There was some- 
 thing in our treatment, so far, that gave us some hopes 
 we had fallen into humane hands ; but whenever the 
 picture of Colonel Velasco, with his mustaches, whis- 
 kers, and iron countenance, was called to mind, the 
 hopes of being well used in a great measure vanished. 
 
 As some little preparation, was necessary, in procu- 
 ring bread-stuffs and other requisites for our journey, it 
 was not until near the middle of the day on the 12th of 
 December that we took up the line of march. We had 
 been led to suppose that we were to be taken through 
 Durango, the city of pretty women and alicrans ;* but 
 
 * I believe that the city of Durango is somewhat celebrated for the beauty 
 and talent of its women — I know that it is noted for the numbers and venom- 
 ous qualities of its alicrans, or scorpions. Frequently, while travelling 
 
106 
 
 A PAINFUL SUSPICION. 
 
 as Colonel Cooke’s party had gone by that route, we 
 were ordered to proceed by a more easterly road. Be- 
 fore our departure, nearly all the officers of our guard 
 who had accompanied us from Chihuahua came to take 
 their leave of us, and bade us a kind farewell. Ochoa 
 was not among the number, and as he owed several 
 small sums to the Texan officers — money which he had 
 borrowed at different places on the road — for the first 
 time suspicions of his integrity were aroused. These 
 suspicions were farther increased when the trumpet 
 sounded an advance, and we were ordered to proceed. 
 
 The signal for our departure was also the signal for 
 the entire population to rush to the street through which 
 we were to pass, and as usual we found either side 
 
 through the State of Durango, were we regaled with Mexican stories of the 
 swarms of poisonous alicrans which infest the capital. Of course I can say 
 nothing of these insects from personal experience, not having been within 
 thirty miles of the city which they inhabit ; but if half the tales told me were 
 true, the inhabitants must be kept in continual fear and much trembling on ac- 
 count of them. To children and to elderly persons the bite or sting of the 
 alicran is said to prove fatal, while to the middle-aged they cause suffering 
 the most intense. A bounty of some three or six cents — I have now forgot- 
 ten the precise sum — is paid by the authorities for each insect secured, and 
 according to some of the stories told us, no inconsiderable business is car- 
 ried on in the way of catching and bottling the-much-dreaded scorpions. As 
 it may not prove uninteresting to many of my readers, I will quote a short par- 
 agraph in relation to these singular insects from the narrative of General 
 Pike : “ The scorpions of Durango are one of the most remarkable instances 
 of the physical effects of climate I ever saw recorded. They come out of the 
 walls and crevices in May, and continue in such numbers that the inhab- 
 itants never walk in their houses after dark without a light, and always shift 
 or examine the bedclothes and beat the curtains previous to going to bed, 
 after which the curtains are secured under the bed, similar to the precautions 
 we take with our moscheto bars. The bite of these scorpions has been 
 known to prove mortal in two hours. The most extraordinary circumstance 
 is, that by taking them ten leagues from the city of Durango they become 
 perfectly harmless, and lose all their venomous qualities !” Such are the 
 stories told of the much-dreaded alicrans of Durango. Of their size and ap- 
 pearance I could learn little, save that they are an inch or more in length, 
 have many legs, and move with much celerity. 
 
DURANGO CAVALRY. 
 
 107 
 
 thronged with a crowd of the most motley description 
 — priests, robbers, peons, loafers, soldiers, half-dressed 
 girls, naked children, high and low — all eager to obtain 
 a last sight of los Tejanos. In the throng we observed 
 many of the girls we had seen at the fandango the 
 night before, waving their hands and murmuring their 
 “ adios, caballeros” as we passed. Our new guard was 
 composed of about one hundred men belonging to Colo- 
 nel Velasco’s regiment. They were tolerably well 
 mounted, it being a cavalry regiment, and known by 
 the name of the “ Frontier Guard of Durango.” Their 
 uniform is a blue woollen coatee or jacket trimmed with 
 red, with velvet trousers of the same colour, and instead 
 of a common cavalry cap they all wear a coarse, wide- 
 brimmed wool hat, with a plate of tin some two inches in 
 width entirely circling the crown. Their arms consist- 
 ed of a carbine, slung to their saddles on the right and 
 with the breech up ; on the left side of the saddle is 
 fixed a lance, to the end of which a strip of red flannel 
 or Woollen stuff is attached, which flutters gayly as they 
 ride along ; a heavy cavalry sword, which clatters at 
 every movement of their horses, completes their equip- 
 ment, for although a pair of holsters were attached to 
 the pommels of their saddles, I never could see that they 
 contained pistols. All were excellent horsemen, and at 
 a little distance their appearance was decidedly showy 
 and gallant ; but a closer inspection convinces that 
 they must prove ineffective men when hard blows and 
 knocks and heavy service are required of them. They 
 rode on either side of us in regular order, and evinced a 
 degree of discipline far superior to that of the raw mi- 
 litia who had heretofore accompanied us ; but they 
 were old soldiers, and we augured very favourably as to 
 our future treatment from their politeness, and the 
 
108 
 
 SUSPICIONS REMOVED. 
 
 many little acts of deference which none but the vet- 
 eran soldier exhibits to those whom chance may throw 
 in his power. Throughout our long and tedious march 
 we were almost invariably well treated by the regular 
 troops, while the young and undisciplined recruits and 
 raw militia were overbearing and insolent in their gen- 
 eral deportment. 
 
 We had reached the confines of the town, and were 
 about striking out into the open country, when a ser- 
 vant of Captain Ochoa came riding up in haste, and de- 
 livered a note and small parcel to Mr. Navarro. The 
 note was written in Spanish, very courteously worded, 
 and the purport of it was that Captain O. could hardly 
 trust his feelings in bidding us farewell in person. He 
 however sent his best wishes for our health and happi- 
 ness while upon the road, and his hopes that we might 
 be speedily liberated on reaching the city of Mexico. 
 In the same note he stated that, in the parcel which ac- 
 companied it, would be found the different sums of 
 money he had borrowed of our officers on the road, 
 with a regret that he had been unable to repay them 
 sooner. Nothing could have been more delicate or 
 more gentlemanly than the tenour of this note. The 
 clouds which had been rising over his fair fame were 
 at once banished, and Captain Ochoa again stood out 
 in the broad, clear light of an honourable man. I know 
 not whether these remarks may ever meet his eye, but 
 if they do, he will see that he has not been forgotten. 
 
 There being no settlement within some fifteen leagues 
 of Cerro Gordo, we encamped, the first night, in a little 
 mesquit valley, near a spring of water. Here the true 
 character of Colonel Velasco began to develope itself. 
 He asked the quantity of beef which had been given to 
 each of the prisoners upon the march — apologized for 
 
SCARCITY OF TREES IN MEXICO. 109 
 
 the quality of that he ordered to be killed on the occa- 
 sion — said it was the best he could procure at Cerro 
 Gordo, and wound up by assuring us that, so long as 
 we were under his charge, we should have the fattest 
 meat and the best bread that could be obtained on the 
 route, and as much as we wished for. Generally speak- 
 ing, the character and disposition of a man may be read 
 from his countenance ; but in this instance we were all 
 deceived. It may have been, however, that the huge 
 whiskers and mustaches of Colonel Yelasco completely 
 hid all the better qualities of his mind as reflected in 
 his face, for, unprepossessing as was his countenance, 
 we ever found him a kind-hearted, gentlemanly offi- 
 cer, and disposed to grant us every indulgence in his 
 power. 
 
 On our first day’s journey from Cerro Gordo we 
 passed a large number of horses and mules, herded on 
 either side of the road in small droves not exceeding 
 forty or fifty in each gang. The pasturage, as far as 
 the eye could reach, was excellent, with no other trees 
 than an occasional mesquit not much higher than a 
 common thornbush. And here I might mention a fact 
 which may not be generally known to my readers. 
 Those at all conversant with Mexico know that it is 
 far from being a wooded country ; but few are aware 
 of the extreme sparsity of trees to be seen while trav- 
 elling through it, and more especially along the high 
 table-lands. I have seen more trees in one day’s travel 
 in the United States than during a journey of three 
 months through Mexico. In fact, every tree met with 
 on the route between Santa Fe and the city of Mexico, 
 with the exception of those which have been planted 
 by the inhabitants, could be set upon twenty square 
 miles in the United States and find a sufficiency of 
 Vol. II. — K 
 
110 
 
 A VAST ESTATE. 
 
 room to grow. The tops of some of the mountains are 
 partially covered with stunted oaks, cedars, and pines, 
 and from these the poorer classes and Indians make 
 charcoal, which ever finds a ready sale in the larger 
 towns and cities. They have no other use for it than 
 to cook their food, fireplaces being nearly unknown af- 
 ter getting as far south as Zacatecas. 
 
 We were told, by some of our guard, that the horses 
 we met during the day all belonged to a single haci- 
 enda, which we should reach on the following night. 
 The Mexicans related stories that appeared almost in- 
 credible in relation to the former prosperity and richness 
 of this hacienda, and the immense number of horses and 
 mules owned at one time by its proprietor. They even 
 went so far as to say, that but a short time prior to the 
 Revolution no less than three hundred thousand horses 
 were in the possession of the lady who was then the 
 owner of the estate. Whether this story was true or 
 false I am unable to say ; but however incredible it 
 may appear, the story is robbed of much of its extrav- 
 agance when it is stated that her possessions extend- 
 ed some fifty miles on either side of the road. 
 
 Our second day’s journey from Cerro Gordo was one 
 of some twenty-five miles, yet we were constantly in 
 sight of horses and mules. They were generally in 
 droves of about fifty, each gang herded by a single 
 Mexican, whose only business it was to see that none 
 of them strayed away. Towards nightfall we reached 
 a large hacienda by the roadside, an estate owned by 
 the mistress of the immense tract upon which the horses 
 were pastured. She is a widow, I believe ; and al- 
 though comparatively poor when the immense wealth 
 of some of the former proprietors is taken into consid- 
 eration, is still the owner of fifty thousand horses and 
 
A MUNIFICENT GIFT. 
 
 Ill 
 
 mules, large herds of cattle and sheep, immense fields 
 of corn and wheat, and has several thousand peons at 
 tier different haciendas. 
 
 To show the immense wealth of one of the former 
 proprietors of this estate, who, like the present, was a 
 widow, I will relate one little anecdote told us while 
 we were there. A short time previous to that revolu- 
 tion which resulted in the separation of Mexico from 
 Spain, and while the estate I have just alluded to was 
 at the zenith of its prosperity, a regiment of dragoons 
 arrived from Spain and landed at Tampico. This re- 
 giment was one thousand strong, and of course the men 
 did not bring their horses with them. The colonel of 
 the regiment happening to be a friend of the family of 
 the wealthy proprietress, and well known to her de- 
 ceased husband, she immediately sent him a thousand 
 white horses as a present, for the use of his regiment. 
 There was hardly a month’s difference in the ages of 
 these horses, and every one of them had been raised 
 upon her estate. While we were there, a number of 
 horses were brought to our encampment to be sold, and 
 two or three were disposed of at prices ranging from 
 seven to ten dollars — horses that would readily com- 
 mand from sixty to eighty dollars in the United States. 
 A very well-made and showy bay, of fine action, and 
 not more than five years old, was offered for twenty- 
 five dollars. I am confident he would readily command 
 ..wo hundred dollars in any part of the United States. 
 
 And how, it will be asked, is the labour on this im- 
 mense estate, and others of its kind, effected, and who 
 are the workmen ? I have already said that the mis- 
 tress of the estate had several thousand peons or labour- 
 ers upon its different branches, and to these unfortunate 
 vassals, for they cannot be called by any other name, 
 
112 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF A HACIENDA. 
 
 are the rich proprietors of Mexico indebted for all their 
 wealth. 
 
 The Constitution of Mexico guaranties, to all classes 
 and colours, the greatest liberty and equality — the poor- 
 est peasant is protected, by the glorious panoply of the 
 law, from every infringement upon his personal liberty 
 — and the most abject beggar in the land has rights and 
 privileges which cannot be trampled upon by his neigh- 
 bour, be he ever so powerful or wealthy.* So much 
 for the law and Constitution in theory — the practice is 
 an entirely different matter. 
 
 The traveller who visits one of the larger estates in 
 Mexico, finds, in the centre of it, a village, or collection 
 of houses, large or small in proportion to the quantity 
 of land owned by the proprietor. Occupying the most 
 conspicuous situation is the church, generally a strong 
 stone building surmounted by a tower or cupola, with 
 a clear, silvery-sounding bell. The interior is decora- 
 ted, perhaps, with statues of our Saviour, the Apostles, 
 the Virgin, and the patron saint of the hacienda, execu- 
 ted in wood, and frequently arrayed most fantastically ; 
 the walls are covered with wretched copies of Scriptu- 
 ral paintings. Close by the church is the residence of 
 the haciendero, or owner, a massive, strong, roomy, but 
 comparatively unfurnished dwelling, in one of the front 
 apartments of which is his store. Here the poor peons 
 purchase their liquor, their cigars, and the little cloth 
 that furnishes their raiment, and at prices the most ex- 
 orbitant. Adjoining this house are the trojes, or barns, 
 where the produce of the estate is stored — strong, sub- 
 stantial buildings. Then come the rude adobe hovels 
 of the common labourers, frequently having but one 
 
 * Such was the case while I was in Mexico : as the Constitution is changed, 
 on an average, every six months, a different state of tilings may exist now. 
 
MEXICAN SLAVES. 
 
 113 
 
 room, in which the whole family, father and mother, 
 brothers and sisters, sons-in-law and daughters-in-law, 
 huddle together upon one common earthen floor. 
 
 And what relation do these people bear to the haci- 
 endero ? They are many of them slaves — slaves to all 
 intents and purposes, although they may enjoy a nom- 
 inal liberty. A large proportion of them, probably, are 
 in some way indebted to the proprietor, the law giving 
 him a lien upon their services until such debts are paid ; 
 but most especial good care does he take that they 
 never pay him their obligations so long as their services 
 are in any way profitable. They are in his debt, and 
 are kept so until age or infirmity renders their labour 
 unproductive ; then the obligation is cancelled, and they 
 are cast upon the world, to beg, steal, or starve, as best 
 they may. 
 
 Should some one of the peons, more active, ambi- 
 tious, or enterprising than his fellows, chance to accu- 
 mulate money enough to repay his debt and regain his 
 liberty, how then ? He offers his master the price of 
 his redemption, but the latter, upon some flimsy pretext, 
 refuses to take it — he has not yet done with the services 
 of the vigorous servant. The latter flies to the alcalde 
 for redress. The law is on his side, equity is on his 
 side, but the functionary who administers them is very 
 likely a creature of the proprietor, and will not listen to 
 the case of the slave, be it ever so just. The latter at- 
 tempts to purchase justice by a bribe, but he is outbid 
 by the haciendero. The alcalde shuts his eyes upon 
 justice, opens his hand to the longer purse of the pro- 
 prietor, and the unfortunate serf is once more driven to 
 bondage. Such, so far as I could see and learn, was 
 the state of things at many of the haciendas we passed 
 upon our journey. The immense wealth, which has 
 K 2 
 
114 
 
 GENEROUS TREATMENT. 
 
 fallen into the hands of the few in Mexico, has given 
 them a power over the numerous and abjectly poor 
 which amounts nearly to that of the English barons un- 
 der the feudal system — never will there be a change in 
 favour of the lower orders until a thorough and radical 
 revolution takes place in the very natures of the inhab- 
 itants, or until the country falls into other hands. 
 
 To resume my narrative. On the 14th of December, 
 our men now much improved and invigorated by the 
 substantial and bountiful supply of food furnished them, 
 we passed the Palo Chino, encamping at a hacienda a 
 few miles farther on. It was at this place, the name 
 of which I did not ascertain, that we had still farther 
 reason to admire the conduct of Colonel Yelasco. 
 Calling the officers and merchants together, amounting 
 to some eighteen or twenty, he told us that he had ev- 
 ery confidence in our words, and that while in his 
 charge we should be permitted to go where we pleased 
 on our parole of honour. No guard was to accompany 
 us — the only exaction he made, and even that was in 
 the shape of a request, was that we should all be in at- 
 tendance every morning when the trumpet sounded an 
 advance. 
 
 From this time we enjoyed the greatest liberty. 
 When night came, we could select any meson, at the 
 place where we were halted, to sleep in, and could 
 roam about at will. The same liberty would have 
 been granted our men, but that among them were 
 several drunken, worthless fellows, ever ready to abuse 
 every privilege allowed them. The larger portion of 
 the Texans were well-educated, intelligent men, pos- 
 sessing all self-respect ; yet they were obliged to suffer 
 from the bad conduct of a few of their associates in 
 imprisonment. 
 
WHIMSICAL NAMES. 
 
 115 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Arrival at El Gallo, or The Cock.— Singular Names for Towns. — A rich Sil- 
 ver Mine. — Scenes at a Fandango. — The Well of El Gallo. — Arrival at 
 Dolores. — Guadalupe. — ■ The Prisoners reach Cuencame. — A small Party 
 of us quartered at the House of a Castilian. — Hospitable Treatment. — 
 Strange Superstition in relation to a Statue. — Gullibility of the Poorer 
 Classes. — We are turned over to a new Guard. — Selling a Watch. — La 
 Senorita Juana. — Colonel Velasco takes leave of the Prisoners. — Captain 
 Roblado. — Story in relation to him. — Superiority of the Bread of Cuencame. 
 — Our Departure. — Hacienda of Juan Perez. — Roblado, and his Treatment 
 of an Alcalde. — A tedious March. — Arrival at San Sebastian. — Frightened 
 Girls and wounded Dogs. — Freaks and Endurance of the genus Donkey. 
 — Arrival at Saenea. — Picturesque Situation of the Town. — The Maguey 
 Plant ; its Uses and Abuses. — One Drink of Pulque sufficient. — A Gang of 
 “ Involuntary Volunteers.” — Mode of Recruiting for the Mexican Army. — 
 Rancho Grande.— Decay in Mexico. — An American Traveller. — Arrival at 
 Fresnillo.— 1 The Mines in the Vicinity. — Meeting with an Englishman. — 
 The Tienda del Gato. — Stories and Egg-nog. — More “Involuntary Volun- 
 teers.”— A Stage-coach, and Thoughts of Home. — La Caleta. — First Ap- 
 pearance of Small-pox among the Texans. 
 
 Early on the afternoon of the 15th of December we 
 reached the small village of El Gallo, or The Cock.* It 
 is situated at the foot of a rough and precipitous hill, on 
 the sides of which, it was said, a rich vein of silver ore 
 had just been discovered. This, I wish it to be under- 
 stood, was but a Mexican story ; I give my authority, 
 lest some mining adventurer should be drawn to the 
 spot in search of treasure, which probably has no exist- 
 ence, save in the imagination of the ignorant and gos- 
 siping inhabitants. 
 
 At night, a fandango was given at the house of the 
 alcalde, attended by some half dozen of the prisoners as 
 well as the very elite of El Gallo. One of the girls was 
 
 * The Mexicans give queer names to some of their smaller towns. I rec- 
 ollect sleeping one night at the town of Wheelbarrow. 
 
116 
 
 THE SWORD DANCE. 
 
 dressed in a yellow-white tunica, or modern gown, of 
 French cut, and brought probably from the city of Du- 
 rango. She undoubtedly wore it in honour of los Se- 
 nores Tejanos and their customs ; but there was no 
 necessity of her punishing herself thus severely on our 
 account. That she felt stiff, awkward, and ill at ease 
 under the infliction of the frock was evident, and it 
 would have been all the same to us had she appeared in 
 the common loose dress of her countrywomen. There 
 were others in the room arrayed with the usual Mexi- 
 can regard to physical liberty and comfort, their easy 
 and graceful movements forming a pleasing contrast to 
 the constrained and straight-jacketish carriage of their 
 companion. 
 
 The evening passed pleasantly away, and had a spec- 
 tator, unacquainted with our true situation, been present, 
 and seen the Texan officers dancing and waltzing with 
 the Mexican sehoras, he would not have suspected that 
 we were prisoners. A dance, executed by a Mexican 
 sergeant and one of the girls, afforded much amusement. 
 The name given to it was danzade la espada, or sword 
 dance, the difficult and dangerous feats of the sergeant 
 completely eclipsing the tricks of any juggler of the 
 sword-swallowing genus I have ever seen. That he 
 would not only take his own life, but that of his brunette 
 partner in the dance, seemed inevitable ; for he cut and 
 slashed about, fell upon his sword, balanced it upon his 
 nose and eyes, and so pointed it at the breast of the girl, 
 that we all felt relieved when the dance was over and 
 ascertained that both had escaped unhurt. 
 
 This exhibition gave infinite delight to a score of girls 
 of the poorer class, seated upon the floor at one end of 
 the room. And here I would mention one circumstance, 
 which must have been observed, but appears to have 
 
CUENCAME. 
 
 117 
 
 been forgotten or suppressed by all travellers and wri- 
 ters upon Mexico — the singular faculty the women have 
 of bestowing themselves upon a floor. I have frequent- 
 ly seen a dozen girls seated upon a space too small for 
 even three of any other nation. How they dispose of 
 their nether limbs is a mystery — I only know that they 
 group themselves so closely together, and sit so bolt up- 
 right, that one might imagine they had been cut in twain, 
 and the upper portion placed upon the floor after the 
 manner of so many barrels in a storehouse. 
 
 At El Gallo is a deep and clear natural well of warm 
 water, from which the town is supplied. Like our ne- 
 groes, the Mexicans can carry immense loads upon their 
 heads, and processions of girls were seen passing to and 
 from the well at all times, carrying large earthen jars 
 with the greatest steadiness — not spilling a drop, even 
 though the jars were filled to the brim. 
 
 The night of the 16th of December we spent at a 
 poor rancho, the name of which I have forgotten. The 
 next afternoon we reached the very wealthy hacienda 
 of Dolores, where we saw a very pretty girl, and where 
 we found every comfort. The night of the 18th we 
 passed at the hacienda of Guadalupe, without any in- 
 cident worthy of note occurring. On the 20th we reach- 
 ed Cuencame, the largest town we had yet seen with 
 the exception of El Paso and Chihuahua. 
 
 We had no sooner entered the plaza than a little 
 Spanish merchant invited three or four of us to spend 
 our time at his house. He was a proud and fiery little 
 Castilian, fond of relating the exploits of his countrymen, 
 but entertained us with the utmost hospitality and kind- 
 ness. A very pleasant rest we were allowed at Cuen- 
 came. Some of our officers, not liking the quarters 
 provided for them, hired rooms in the town for the two 
 
1 IS 
 
 A MIRACULOUS IMAGE. 
 
 nights we were to pass there, and during the day we 
 roamed about the place, visiting the churches, cockpits, 
 and tiendas with which it abounds. In the principal 
 church is a singular curiosity, religiously kept and wor- 
 shipped by the ignorant and superstitious inhabitants of 
 the vicinity. It is nothing more or less than a rude 
 wooden statue of our Saviour. The marvellous story 
 related of it is as follows : Some centuries ago, when 
 the good people of Cuencame were surrounded and 
 likely to fall into the hands of their enemies, this statue 
 suddenly appeared in their midst, and by wondrous 
 deeds of prowess gave them the battle and rescued them 
 from their foes. The statue was then borne in triumph 
 to the town, a niche set apart for it in the church, and 
 from that day to this it has been held in especial rever- 
 ence, and looked upon as the guardian and protector of 
 the place. 
 
 It was not without regret we now learned that Col- 
 onel Yelasco was to leave us, the jurisdiction of the 
 State of Durango extending no farther, and his men be- 
 ing required on the northern frontier to guard the inhab- 
 itants against Indians. We knew, however, that his 
 influence would have considerable effect upon the offi- 
 cer who was to take charge of the prisoners as far as 
 Zacatecas, and this fact partially consoled us for the 
 loss of one who had ever acted towards us with kind- 
 ness and consideration. 
 
 The pert little Castilian with whom I was quartered had 
 two or three pretty and well-dressed daughters, girls per- 
 haps of sixteen, eighteen, and twenty years, one of whom 
 saw my gold watch lying upon a table in our sleeping 
 apartment, where I had accidentally left it. It was a 
 pretty watch enough to look at, but the rough wooden 
 statue in the adjoining church was just as good a chron- 
 
YET ANOTHER COMMANDER. 
 
 119 
 
 icier of the passing hours, it having been injured in my 
 fall before leaving Texas. The girl fell in love with it, 
 however, and mentioned her ardent desire to become 
 its possessor to her father, who hinted to Van Ness that 
 he would be glad to purchase it for her sake. He ap- 
 proached this subject very delicately : I was an invited 
 guest at his house, and his lofty Castilian pride revolted 
 at the idea of asking me to sell him the article, or at all 
 events he pretended that it did. Van Ness at once 
 communicated to me the wish of our host, adding that 
 he wanted the watch for one of his daughters. I had 
 no desire to dispose of the trinket, but told my comrade 
 to inform the Spaniard that he might have it for a hun- 
 dred dollars. I thought the price would frighten our 
 host out of all idea of purchasing, but its effect was quite 
 the reverse. He immediately counted out the sum in 
 good Mexican dollars, and with many protestations 
 hoped I would excuse the liberty he had thus taken in 
 asking a guest to sell his private jewelry. Consider- 
 ing the injury the w r atch had sustained, the price was 
 far above its worth ; still I was very unwilling to part 
 with it. It had been my companion for several years ; 
 I had carried it thousands of miles, and had succeeded 
 in saving it from the hands of the rascal Salezar. Yet 
 I could not retract ; and the next morning I saw the 
 watch gracing the girdle of la Senorita Juana. 
 
 The morning after we reached Cuencame Colonel 
 Velasco called us together and took his leave, at the 
 same time introducing the commandante of our new 
 guard, Captain Roblado. The latter had a face even 
 more sinister in its expression than that of Colonel V., 
 and in this instance the actions of the man did not belie 
 his features. He had been many years in the Mexican 
 service, possessed naturally a sour and morose disposi- 
 
120 
 
 DELICIOUS BREAD. 
 
 tion, with a petulance and ill-humour he but half con- 
 cealed, even if he attempted so to do. If one anecdote 
 told of him was true, he certainly had no reason to en- 
 tertain any uncommon friendship for the Texans. It 
 was said that he had received a severe wound from one 
 of Colonel Jordan’s men, in the celebrated retreat of the 
 latter from Saltillo, after having been treacherously be- 
 trayed into the hands of the Centralists by the Federal 
 General Canales. In the retreat of Jordan, Roblado 
 commanded a company of dragoons sent out to cut him 
 off. By a single fire from the Texans, but little more 
 than a hundred in number, some fifty or sixty Mexicans 
 were tumbled dead from their horses, Roblado receiving 
 a wound in the leg which crippled him for life. Al- 
 though Colonel Velasco, his superior in rank, had order- 
 ed him to treat us with every civility, which order he 
 obeyed to a certain extent, it was invariably with a 
 spirit of reluctance. 
 
 The bread of Cuencame is noted throughout Mexico 
 for its whiteness and sweetness, and probably a better 
 article is not made in the wide world. Of this Colonel 
 Velasco ordered a large quantity for our use on the 
 road, and he also ordered the fattest oxen to be pur- 
 chased and killed on the journey. This was the man 
 we had supposed a tiger in disposition, until his ac- 
 tions proved him a liberal, mild, and courteous officer. 
 
 Every preparation having at length been completed, 
 we left Cuencame on the morning of the 22d of De- 
 cember. We passed the first night at a poor rancho 
 by the roadside, and the next evening reached the ha- 
 cienda of Juan Perez. An American physician, a res- 
 ident of some town near the city of Durango, had ac- 
 companied us the first day’s march from Cuencame. 
 He could give us no other information in relation to 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH AN ALCALDE. 
 
 121 
 
 Colonel Cooke’s party than that they had been tolerably 
 well treated on the route they had taken. 
 
 After a long and extremely fatiguing march, over a 
 gravelly and stony road, we reached a poor village late 
 on the afternoon of the 24th. Many of our men were 
 very foot-sore and completely tired out with the long 
 march, so much so that they declared themselves really 
 unable to pursue the journey on foot the next day. T o 
 allow them a day’s rest was deemed utterly impossible 
 by Roblado, and he immediately sent an order summon- 
 ing the alcalde before him. That functionary soon ap- 
 peared, when Roblado told him that he must provide a 
 hundred jackasses for the use of the men. The alcalde 
 replied that the place was extremely poor, and that 
 he could not furnish more than ten of the animals re- 
 quired. 
 
 “ I am a man of few words,” answered Captain Ro- 
 blado. “ I want one hundred jackasses for the men to 
 ride to-morrow. If they are not here by six o’clock in 
 the morning I’ll make a jackass of you, Sehor Alcalde, 
 pack you with the heaviest man in the crowd, and make 
 you carry him to San Sebastian.” 
 
 “ Si, Sehor,” said the terrified alcalde, and the next 
 morning the requisite number of animals were on the 
 spot in readiness. Here was another instance of the 
 supremacy the military power exerts over the civil in 
 Mexico. Not a cent was paid the poor owners of the 
 animals for services thus extorted, and Roblado mani- 
 fested as little compunction on the occasion as a bear 
 would while robbing a beehive. I will not give the 
 man credit for having thus mounted our men through 
 feelings of humanity, believing him to have been actua- 
 ted by no other motive than that of getting us on as 
 fast as possible. 
 
 Vol. II.— L 
 
122 
 
 A MISERABLE TOWN. 
 
 A tiresome march of some thirty-five miles, over a 
 rough and uneven country, brought us to a dirty, mis- 
 erable little hole which is dignified with the high-sound- 
 ing name of San Sebastian. This place is situated in a 
 small, sterile valley, amid barren hills, the only vegeta- 
 tion appearing upon their sides being a few stunted 
 prickly pears and thornbushes. How the two or three 
 hundred inhabitants obtain a living is a perfect mys- 
 tery ; in fact, they do not more than half live. Their 
 little huts are built of small stones and mud, without 
 doors or windows — they have neither chairs nor beds, 
 nor in fact furniture of any kind — in fine, are infinitely 
 worse off than Choctaw or Cherokee Indians, not only 
 as regards clothing and food, but habitations and all the 
 necessaries of life. 
 
 It was on Christmas day that we reached San Se- 
 bastian, and anything but “ a merry Christmas” did we 
 spend in the wretched hole. Many of us had intended 
 to “ keep” the day and night somewhat after the man- 
 ner of our country, but we could not procure eggs and 
 milk enough in the town to manufacture even a tumbler 
 of egg-nog. We were therefore compelled to make 
 our Christmas dinner of a piece of beef roasted on a 
 stick, with no other than bread and water accompani- 
 ments. 
 
 While roaming about the town after nightfall, in 
 company with one of our officers, and inquiring for 
 milk and eggs of every man, woman, and child we met, 
 we at length encountered a couple of half-dressed girls, 
 standing within a few steps of one of the houses. We 
 stopped, and were about to ask them if they had the 
 articles we were in search of, when they set up a ter- 
 rible scream, and scampered into the hovel as though 
 frightened out of the little sense that had been vouch- 
 
A CHRISTMAS FROLIC. 
 
 123 
 
 safed them. Some half dozen starved curs issued from 
 the doorless entrance and commenced yelping at us, 
 and this appeared to be a signal for every dog in town 
 to join the chorus. Fortunately for us, there was no 
 lack of stones, of a suitable size for throwing, in the vi- 
 cinity, and I am strongly inclined to believe that sev- 
 eral of the barking whelps had good reasons for regret- 
 ting that they had attacked us — one, I know, must have 
 required careful and unremitting nursing before he 
 could ever hope to raise another bark at a stranger. 
 
 On returning to our quarters, some half an hour af- 
 terward, we found that an exceedingly grave charge 
 had already been entered against us by the relatives or 
 friends of the frightened girls, the complainants inform- 
 ing Roblado that we had not only insulted but chased 
 them, and that had it not been for their faithful dogs it 
 w r as impossible to imagine where we might have stop- 
 ped ! This was too rich. We told Roblado the cir- 
 cumstances exactly as they occurred, with one excep- 
 tion : as there was a remote probability that the plain- 
 tiffs might obtain a bill for damages sustained by their 
 dogs, we did not even hint to Roblado our knowledge 
 of the virtue possessed by stones, or that either of us 
 had ever thrown one in our lives. Thus ended our 
 Christmas frolic at San Sebastian. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning we were on the 
 road. I looked around me, as we filed through the 
 narrow and crooked lane leading from the town, ex- 
 pecting to see an occasional dead dog, or a limping one 
 at least ; but the search was fruitless. A thousand 
 open mouths were grinning, growling, grinding their 
 teeth, and barking at us at every step — the killed and 
 wounded had probably been provided for. Has any 
 one of my readers, in his journeyings, ever noticed that 
 
124 
 
 ORANGE-TREES. 
 
 the poorest towns and families always have the most 
 and the meanest dogs ? If he has not, I have, often. 
 
 We had proceeded a mile, or probably less, when 
 suddenly one of our men was seen rising in the air, 
 somewhat after the manner of a rocket, and then de- 
 scending with even greater velocity. He had only 
 been hoisted by one of those peculiar kick-ups which 
 no animal but a donkey can give, but fortunately was 
 only slightly injured. Many of the animals which had 
 been pressed into the service by Roblado, although the 
 forced contract with the alcalde extended no farther 
 than to San Sebastian, were still retained to carry our 
 more lame and infirm comrades ; had it not been for 
 this, many of them would have suffered dreadfully, as 
 the march was nearly forty miles in length. How 
 these animals sustain themselves is unaccountable ; for 
 they had nothing to eat for the thirty-six hours they 
 were with us, and then had to retrace their steps over 
 the same ground, and with the same nourishment. 
 They stopped over night at San Sebastian, going and 
 coming ; but there was not food enough in the vicinity 
 of that town to afford a respectable maintenance for a 
 small flock of killdees. 
 
 Just at dusk we entered the town of Saenea, deep in 
 a narrow but fertile and beautiful valley, which is bor- 
 dered on every side by frowning hills and mountains. 
 The location of this town, which contains some two 
 thousand inhabitants, is picturesque in the extreme, 
 and in addition it is one of the cleanest places we met 
 with in the country. Here, for the first time, we saw 
 the orange-tree in full bearing. Although we had been 
 travelling for near a month in the latitude in which 
 that delicious fruit arrives at perfection, the elevation 
 of the table-lands we had journeyed over made the air 
 
THE MAGUEY-TREE. 
 
 125 
 
 too cold for it to thrive. At Saenea, too, we for the 
 first time saw the celebrated maguey plant, from which 
 pulque , the principal beverage of the country, is extract- 
 ed. The process of gathering this fluid is by cutting 
 off the centre shoot of the plant, in the hollow of which, 
 holding about a pint, the pulque finds a basin. This 
 little basin fills two or three times a day with the sap 
 of the plant, which, after being slightly fermented, is 
 drunk in immense quantities by the natives. 
 
 The process of extracting the sap from the basin is 
 primitive, and not well adapted to make it palatable to 
 all tastes. The person to whom this part of the busi- 
 ness is intrusted has a long tube made expressly for the 
 purpose, one end of which he inserts in the basin and 
 the other in his mouth, and then, by exercising what is 
 generally termed the power of suction, he draws the 
 liquid from the fountain-head to his own. It next finds 
 its way to some skin or trough, and after being allowed 
 to ferment, is considered fit to drink. Foreigners be- 
 come extremely fond of it after much use, and many 
 of them drink it to even greater excess than the natives. 
 For myself, one swallow was quite sufficient — I never 
 tasted it a second time. Some of the Mexican officers in- 
 sisted that it was very refreshing, and palatable withal, 
 and pressed me to try another cup. I told them I had 
 little doubt it was a very fine drink to those who liked 
 it, but that it did not exactly suit my taste — and here 
 the matter ended. To me it had the flavour of stale 
 small-beer mixed with sour milk, and the odour of half- 
 tainted meat as it approached my nose. Moreover, the 
 system of hydraulics by which the suckers first extract 
 ed it was not altogether such as met with my approval. 
 
 I am not sure that I should have taken a single swal- 
 
 L 2 
 
126 
 
 VALUE OF THE MAGUEV. 
 
 low, had I not been assured that it had first undergone 
 a ten days’ fermentation. 
 
 Of itself, pulque is slightly intoxicating, but by distil- 
 lation a very strong liquor is made from it, called mes- 
 cal, or aguardiente de maguey. This is also a very 
 common drink among the lower orders of Mexico, who 
 are much addicted to intemperance. The soldiers will 
 almost invariably get intoxicated upon mescal when- 
 ever they have the opportunity, regardless of the se- 
 vere flogging they are certain to receive for the trans- 
 gression. 
 
 The abuses of the maguey end with the mescal, but 
 its valuable uses do not cease with the pulque. From 
 its leaves, which are frequently eight or ten feet in 
 length by one foot in width, not only thread but rope is 
 made, both strong and durable. The fibrous part is 
 first twisted into thread, which is useful for an endless 
 variety of purposes, and this can at any time be manu- 
 factured into rope of any size. Immense plantations 
 of maguey, where it is planted in rows some ten feet 
 apart, and cultivated with great care, may be found in 
 the vicinities of Guanajuato, Queretaro, Mexico, and 
 Puebla, and yield large revenues to their proprietors. 
 
 As we were about starting from Saenea, some thirty 
 miserable, half-dressed, and, to judge from their appear- 
 ance, half-starved wretches, were taken from a prison 
 adjoining our quarters and marched into the plaza. 
 Who or what they were we could not imagine, but that 
 they were arrant knaves and cut-throats was plainly 
 visible in their countenances. The officer who had 
 charge of them immediately produced a long rope, with 
 shorter ropes attached to it at intervals of about a yard. 
 Each end of these shorter ropes was made into a slip- 
 noose. the distance of the noose from the main cord 
 
INVOLUNTARY VOLUNTEERS. 
 
 127 
 
 being eighteen inches or two feet. While we were al- 
 ternately watching this singular contrivance and cast- 
 ing our eyes at the group of ragged wretches around 
 it, the officer called upon one of them to advance to the 
 head of the rope. His right arm was then drawn 
 through the noose, the officer roughly pulling it tight. 
 Another of the jail-birds was next made fast by his left 
 arm to the opposite end of the short rope, and in this 
 way the whole gang were strung together, and marched 
 off under a strong guard directly upon our route. 
 
 On inquiry, one of the Mexican officers told us they 
 were volunteers, on their way to the city of Mexico to 
 join the army. The real truth was, they were convicts 
 of the worst description, murderers and thieves, on their 
 way to the capital to be manufactured into soldiers : 
 yet abandoned as were these wretches, some of them 
 had mothers and sisters who clung to them until the 
 last, and were with difficulty forced away. _ With tears, 
 they gave their vagabond sons and brothers the last 
 remnants of tortillas and chile in their possession, and 
 followed them with their eyes until lost in the distance. 
 How strong is a mother’s or a sister’s love ! 
 
 After being washed and cleaned up, and having 
 uniforms put upon them, these convicts are drilled 
 until they become familiar with the use of arms ; but 
 they can never make good soldiers. Our own men, 
 who were in every way better treated, and guarded 
 with far less strictness, made themselves not a little 
 merry at the expense of the different strings of “ Invol- 
 untary Volunteers ,” or “ United Mexicans ,” as they were 
 pleased to term them, whom we afterward met on our 
 journey. 
 
 Immediately on leaving Saenea, our road led us up 
 the steep sides of a mountain, difficult to climb, and of 
 
128 
 
 WORN ASPECT OF MEXICO. 
 
 tiresome length. Once at the summit, however, we 
 were partially repaid for our toil by the prospect below 
 us. Cleanly and neatly built as was the town we had 
 just left, and beautiful as we thought its situation while 
 gazing from the plaza at the bold and rugged mount- 
 ains on every side, distance now certainly lent an en- 
 chantment we had not perceived before. Irrigating 
 canals were seen extending in every direction ; small 
 patches of maguey, with their long, coarse leaves, gave 
 a picturesque air to the scenery ; the orange groves, 
 now concealing, now disclosing the dwelling of some 
 more wealthy proprietor, were clad in richest foliage, 
 and yellow with golden fruit, although January was 
 about closing the doors of the old year ; the whole 
 scene was mellowed by the distance, and was one of 
 that varied and subdued beauty seldom met with in 
 other lands than Mexico. 
 
 Our march, in the earlier part of this day, was over 
 a country broken by rugged hills, and desolate from 
 lack of vegetation. In the afternoon, however, we came 
 to a more level tract, and ere nightfall reached a large 
 and wealthy estate known as the Rancho Grande, hav- 
 ing on it a neat church, and a new and commodious 
 meson for the reception of travellers. In all my jour- 
 neyings through Mexico, I do not remember having 
 seen any other house bearing the evident marks of re- 
 cent construction, or a single dwelling in progress. 
 All presented the strongest tokens of age — many were 
 crumbling and tottering under the influence of decay. 
 In that falling Republic the traveller sees no new towns 
 springing into existence, no improvements in those that 
 are already built, none of that bustle and activity which 
 indicate a healthy state ; but on the contrary, such of 
 the villages and cities as are not stationary are going 
 
MEXICAN MINES. 
 
 129 
 
 to ruin, and will continue to do so, slowly, perhaps, but 
 surely, unless wars and revolutions cease, or the coun- 
 try falls into other hands. Of the former there is little 
 hope ; for such is the nature of the population, and so 
 jealous, selfish, and ambitious are the men by whom 
 that population is handled and governed, that no confi- 
 dence can be placed in the stability of any form of gov- 
 ernment that can be set up. 
 
 At Rancho Grande we met an American, who in- 
 formed us that Colonel Cooke’s party had passed 
 through the large mining town of Fresnillo about three 
 weeks before, and that we should probably reach the 
 same place the next day. The name of this American 
 I do not recollect ; I only remember that he said he 
 was making his way out of Mexico as fast as a good 
 mule would allow him, but the cause of his hot haste 
 he did not mention. 
 
 As our informant conjectured, we arrived at Fres- 
 nillo early in the afternoon of the next day. It is a 
 town containing some fifteen or twenty thousand in- 
 habitants, has a large square with a costly fountain in 
 the centre, and several large and showy churches. 
 Within a mile are the celebrated mines of Fresnillo, 
 among the most profitable, at the present time, in Mex- 
 ico, if we were rightly informed. They are worked by 
 steam, and the general superintendence is in the hands 
 of Englishmen, although an American gentleman has 
 charge of the hacienda. I have forgotten the revenue 
 of this celebrated mine, which is owned by a Mexican 
 family; but it is immense. The entire population of 
 Fresnillo derive their support in some way from the 
 mines ; yet the most squalid poverty is to be met at ev- 
 ery turn. 
 
 During the afternoon and evening we were visited 
 
130 
 
 A PLEASANT EVENING. 
 
 by several of the foreigners, and after dark a small par- 
 ty of us spent three or four hours very agreeably with 
 a young Englishman employed about the mines. His 
 residence was at some distance' — too far for us to visit 
 • — but he appeared to be quite at home at the “ Tienda 
 del Gato,” or Shop of the Cat — a singular name this for 
 a confectionery or coffee-house, but such has the owner 
 given it. In it was one of the largest cats I ever saw, 
 and over the door was a painting which the proprietor 
 informed us was a likeness of the animal. The paint- 
 ing was a most atrocious daub, and absolutely required 
 some key to explain the intention of the artist. Had 
 the animal within been a kangaroo or a grizzly bear, 
 the strange figure over the door would have done as 
 well for either as for the cat. 
 
 After being comfortably seated, our Englishman man- 
 ufactured a generous bowl of excellent egg-nog. Over 
 this, and with the usual accompaniments of smoking, 
 story-telling, and anecdotes of travel, we passed a very 
 pleasant evening, forgetting that we were prisoners in 
 a strange land. Not until midnight did we return to 
 the quarters provided for us at a meson, our acquaint- 
 ance promising to see us before we set off in the morn- 
 ing. He said that the foreigners of Fresnillo had made 
 up a liberal subscription for Colonel Cooke’s party, and 
 that they would endeavour to do something for the 
 more unfortunate among our men. 
 
 Although many of the prisoners were worn down by 
 our long and tiresome marches, we remained at Fres- 
 nillo but one night. Roblado said that Zacatecas was 
 only some fifty miles distant, and that there we should 
 be allowed a rest of two days. 
 
 Mexican-like, the streets of Fresnillo were thronged 
 as we left it. The prisons of the place had been deliv- 
 
COURTESY OF THE MEXICANS. 
 
 131 
 
 ered of sixty or seventy convicts, hardened malefactors, 
 whose very aspect showed a knowledge of every crime 
 in the calendar. These were pinioned after the man- 
 ner of those at Saenea, attached to the same rope, and 
 driven under a strong guard before us. Not the least 
 notice did the inhabitants of Fresnillo take of these 
 wretches — it was no uncommon thing with them to see 
 their fellow-beings tied and driven like brutes to the 
 shambles ; but Texans they had never seen before, and 
 to catch a glimpse at us they rushed, squeezed, hustled, 
 and crowded the streets, their curiosity raised to the 
 highest pitch. 
 
 I will say one thing in favour of the Mexican popula- 
 tion generally — they seldom manifested any feelings of 
 exultation in our presence. On the contrary, the mild 
 and subdued eyes of the poor Indians were turned upon 
 us invariably in pity, while the crowds through which 
 we passed, in all the large cities, appeared rather to be 
 actuated by commiseration than triumph or hatred, Jews 
 and heretics though they thought and termed us. With 
 all their bad qualities, the Mexican people, as a body, 
 are kind and benevolent, and disposed to grant every 
 favour and indulgence to strangers who have been un- 
 fortunate. Let it be understood that I am speaking of 
 the lower orders, and consequently the mass. In a 
 journey of over two thousand miles through the coun- 
 try, during which we saw many of the largest towns 
 and cities, I do not recollect that we were publicly in- 
 sulted on more than one occasion after leaving El Paso. 
 This speaks much for the lower orders, when it is un- 
 derstood that they might at any time have practised 
 many acts of insolence towards us with impunity. 
 
 On our first day’s march from Fresnillo, a mail-stage 
 passed us on its way to Zacatecas. It was manufac- 
 
132 
 
 THE SMALL-POX. 
 
 tured at Troy, New- York, was of the same class as the 
 stages in use in the United States, and as it rattled by, 
 full of passengers, forcibly reminded us of freedom and 
 of home. 
 
 At night we reached a poor rancho called La Caleta, 
 where we stopped to sleep. Here one of our men, who 
 had been complaining for two or three days, exhibited 
 unequivocal symptoms of that loathsome disease, the 
 small-pox. Eruptions appeared on every part of his 
 body, he became partially delirious, and although we 
 hoped that the disease might prove one of a lighter na- 
 ture than appearances indicated, all were disappointed. 
 It was small-pox of the worst type, and as there was no 
 guarding against the infection, each one of our party 
 could only hope that he might not become its victim. 
 
AEPROACH TO ZACATECAS. 
 
 133 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Approach to Zacatecas. — Tedious mountain March. — Picturesque View. — 
 First Sight of Zacatecas. — Its singular Situation. — Specimen of Roblado’s 
 Vanity.— Entrance into Zacatecas. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Pas- 
 sage through the City. — Arrival at a deserted Mining House. — Miserable 
 Quarters. — -Permission obtained to visit the City. — Inquisitive Urchins. — 
 Arrival at an Irish Restaurat. — A sumptuous Breakfast. — Visit to a New- 
 York Gentleman. — A Stroll through Zacatecas. — Dinner at the Restaurat. 
 — Invitation to another Dinner. — A goodly Company. — Painting of Wash- 
 ington. — A pleasant Evening in Perspective. — Unrealized Hopes. — Again 
 at our old Quarters at the Mining House. — Mr. Falconer in Trouble. — 
 Mexican Justice. — Dr. Whittaker’s Mode of getting rid of a troublesome 
 Sentinel.— Subscription raised for the Prisoners. — Liberality of a Mexican 
 Lawyer. — Departure from Zacatecas. — Convent of Guadalupe. — Santa 
 Anna, and his Fight with the Zacatecans. — Sack of the City. — Refugio. — 
 Arrival at Ojo Caliente. — A Bathing Scene. — Customs of the Mexican 
 Women, and their Fondness for Swimming. — El Carro. — Arrival at Sali- 
 na. — A Kentucky Circus Proprietor.— His Adventure with Roblado. — The 
 Mexican House of Entertainment, or Meson. — The Foreigner meets with 
 but poor Fare. — Modes of living, and Customs of the Lower Orders of 
 Mexico. 
 
 On the morning of December 30th we commenced 
 ascending the high range of mountains to the north- 
 ward of Zacatecas. A very good road winds up the 
 sides, but the ascent was steep and tiresome. Small 
 parties' of women, driving asses and mules from mar- 
 ket, were passed as we toiled up, and exhibited no little 
 astonishment as they gazed at us. 
 
 On reaching the summit we had a fine view of the 
 valley through which we had just travelled, the distant 
 smoke of the mines at Fresnillo being plainly visible, 
 with the numerous little ranchos we had passed. Be- 
 fore us, and on different points of the mountain-tops, the 
 silver mines of Zacatecas were seen — many of them 
 Vol. II.— M 
 
134 
 
 CAPTAIN ROBLADO’S VANITY. 
 
 deserted, while others were still in operation. As we 
 descended the mountain, the parties of market-women 
 became still larger and more frequent. We continued 
 our winding way down the sides until within half a 
 mile of the city, wondering where a spot could be found 
 for the habitations of men in a vicinity so wild ; for 
 mountain was piled upon mountain on every hand, with 
 no other passes between them than yawning barrancas, 
 or deep ravines. We could not believe that we were 
 near one of the richest and proudest cities of Mexico, 
 until a sudden turn in the road brought it fully into 
 view, with all its domes, spires, palaces, churches, and 
 convents. A more picturesque or grander spectacle 
 can hardly be imagined than the city of Zacatecas as 
 entered from the north. It appears to be hemmed in 
 on almost every side by high and precipitous mount- 
 ains, and of course has but scanty suburbs. The deep 
 ravine in which it is built is filled with houses, even to 
 the very base of the mountains, which seem, in many 
 places, ready to slide and fall upon the town below 
 them. The streets are not very wide, but are almost 
 straight, and many of the buildings are of large size, 
 handsome architecture, and costly and elaborate work- 
 manship. 
 
 Before we entered the city a halt was called, for no 
 other purpose than that Captain Roblado might change 
 his ordinary fatigue-dress for a gaudy uniform, and 
 mount a dashing bay horse upon which to “ show off” at 
 the head of a body of ragged Texan prisoners. With 
 a loud blast from the Mexican trumpets we were then 
 ordered to advance. Housetops, balconies, doors, and 
 windows were filled with women and children on either 
 side of us, and a crowd so dense thronged the streets 
 that every exertion of the dragoons was needed to 
 
POOR LODGINGS. 
 
 135 
 
 force a way through the ragged, dirty, and squalid 
 mass. On many occasions the lower orders of this 
 city have manifested great hostility towards foreigners, 
 not a few unfortunate heretics, or Jews as they are 
 more frequently termed, having been hooted and stoned 
 from its gates ; but latterly this hostility has in a great 
 measure subsided, and not an insult was offered to us 
 by a single individual. It may be that our forlorn and 
 destitute appearance, and a belief that the government 
 would punish us with the utmost severity, chilled any 
 feeling of hostility into silence. Many of the foreigners 
 on the road openly expressed their fears that we might 
 be ill used and insulted at Zacatecas, but such was not 
 the case. 
 
 We were taken completely through the city, passing 
 numerous churches, convents, and palaces, besides the 
 mineria , or mint. One of the buildings we passed was 
 a large quartel, filled apparently with convicts destined 
 to swell the ranks of Santa Anna’s army ; and the 
 wretches gazed at us, as we went by them, with mali- 
 cious looks. After going by the paseo, a large enclo- 
 sure set with trees, we reached the outskirts of the 
 town, and then, after climbing a steep hill, were march- 
 ed into an old deserted mining-house, and locked up. 
 Two mouldy, dirty rooms were set apart for our use, 
 and even these were not sufficiently large to accom- 
 modate us all with shelter ; but as Roblado would not 
 allow us to go out of the place without permission from 
 the governor, there we were obliged to take up our 
 quarters for the night. 
 
 To show how uncomfortably we passed our first 
 night at Zacatecas, I will describe the sleeping apart- 
 ment in which I was allowed such space on the floor as 
 I could cover with my person — no more. The room 
 
136 
 
 DISCOMFORT AND DISEASE. 
 
 was about fifty feet in length, by twenty-five in width, 
 destitute of windows, had a broken and uneven tile floor 
 and from having been long deserted, the walls were 
 damp, mouldy, and fast crumbling to decay. No air found 
 its way into this gloomy hole save through the door, 
 and as the night was raw and cold, even this we were 
 fain to close to protect those immediately around it 
 from the piercing blasts. There were seventy of us in 
 the room, all rolled up in blankets upon the floor ; and 
 when I add that many of the men were covered with 
 every species of vermin, others suffering with distress- 
 ing coughs, and one in the worst stage of that loath- 
 some disease the small-pox, the reader is under no ne- 
 cessity of racking his fancy to imagine that we passed 
 anything but a comfortable or pleasant night. 
 
 Early in the morning Van Ness obtained permission 
 for Falconer, Doctor Whittaker, and myself to accom- 
 pany him into the city, we all promising Roblado that 
 the confidence he placed in us should not be abused. 
 Scarcely had we entered one of the principal streets 
 before we were surrounded by a gang of half-dressed 
 urchins — inquisitive little fellows who jogged along on 
 either side of us, and examined us as closely as they 
 would so many strange beasts in a menagerie. As we 
 passed the houses, the cry of “ Mira ! mira ! los Teja- 
 nos !” would be heard from the women and girls, and 
 then a general scampering and rush to the doors and 
 windows to obtain a sight of our little party. 
 
 In order to get rid of the constantly-increasing crowd 
 of boys, we quickened our pace, and after turning three 
 or four corners, reached a large and well-conducted 
 restaur at kept by an Irishman. This we entered, and 
 immediately called for a breakfast such as we had not 
 seen or tasted for eight months. It consisted simply of 
 
A HOME-LIKE BREAKFAST. 
 
 137 
 
 beefsteaks, mutton chops, boiled eggs, Irish potatoes, 
 coffee, and claret — all simple and common enough — • 
 but then we had long been unused even to such a va- 
 riety, and having a table before us, with chairs to sit in, 
 and knives and forks to eat with, we did ample justice to 
 our breakfast. The wife of our host, or female superin- 
 tendent of the establishment — I am uncertain which — 
 made her appearance just as we had finished our meal. 
 She was a stout, fresh, red-cheeked Irish woman, wore 
 a clean, flowing, and neatly-crimped cap, and as she was 
 the first female I had seen since we left the frontiers of 
 Texas who naturally spoke my language, I could not 
 but regard her as my countrywoman, although she had 
 a brogue as rich as that of the lamented Power in Pat 
 Rooney. 
 
 Leaving the restaurat, I went to a German tailor and 
 ordered such articles of clothing as I stood most in 
 need of, and then had my measure taken for a pair of 
 boots by a Mexican shoemaker next door. They were 
 all to be delivered at our quarters at the old mining- 
 house on the following morning, and the prices of the 
 different articles were about the same as are paid in 
 New-Orleans and other Southern cities of the United 
 States — a trifle cheaper, perhaps. My next visit was 
 to the office of an American gentleman, a New-York- 
 er, who showed me every attention and kindness. 
 After writing several letters to my friends in the Uni- 
 ted States, we visited the different churches and public 
 buildings of the town, attracting all the while not a 
 little attention from the inhabitants, although no rude- 
 ness was offered us. The day was cloudy and raw, 
 with intervals of rain ; but regardless of this, we roamed 
 about the place until dinner-time. I may here add, that 
 from the day on which we left San Miguel, in October, 
 M 2 
 
138 REVERENCE FOR WASHINGTON. 
 
 to the time of which I am speaking — the 1st of January 
 — we had not been annoyed by an hour’s rain. 
 
 At two o’clock we again visited the restaurat and or- 
 dered dinner, selecting corned beef, cabbage, and the like 
 plain “ substantial,” instead of the tempting knick-knack- 
 eries, decoy birds, and other luxuries that were hang- 
 ing in profusion in the windows, or otherwise displayed 
 with that ostentation so characteristic of eating estab- 
 lishments, as well in Zacatecas as in New-Orleans or 
 New-Yoi’k. How much have restaurat keepers, the 
 world over, to answer for in the way of leading gouty 
 gourmands and dyspeptic subjects into temptation by 
 these window exhibitions ! 
 
 We had scarcely finished our meal when a servant 
 arrived with an invitation from a Mexican gentleman, 
 a lawyer, to visit his house and partake of his hospital- 
 ities. We found dinner over when we reached the 
 house, the servant having been searching some two 
 hours before he found us ; but at a table, covered with 
 choice wines and cigars, we joined Mr. Navarro, Gen- 
 eral McLeod, and two or three Texan officers, besides 
 a pair of fat, jolly priests, and in such mixed but goodly 
 company we passed an hour very pleasantly. Our kind 
 host was a distinguished advocate of the place, extreme- 
 ly liberal in his opinions, as were also the priests. In 
 the centre of the library, and occupying the most con- 
 spicuous part of the room, was a well-executed painting 
 of General Washington, enclosed in a splendid frame. 
 Before we retired, our entertainer delivered a neat eu- 
 logy, extremely well expressed, upon the “ Father of 
 his Country,” manifesting the high regard in which his 
 memory was held. This little incident over, our party 
 took their departure, leaving our friends still at the 
 table. 
 
A SAD DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 139 
 
 After a ramble of some two hours, we once more re- 
 paired to the restaurat and ordered a luxurious supper, 
 determined to make the most of our time and commence 
 the new year as happily as possible — at least in the way 
 of eating. We had scarcely finished our meal when a 
 party of Mexican gentlemen invited us into an adjoining 
 room to partake of wine with them. Shortly after, an 
 English gentleman arrived from Fresnillo, with whom 
 we had become acquainted there, and who insisted 
 upon our supping with him. This pressing invitation 
 we were compelled to refuse ; but we joined him in a 
 glass of wine. There was to be a splendid New-year’s 
 ball given that evening, to which we had received an 
 invitation. Just as we were going to it, with full anti- 
 cipations of finishing a delightfully-spent day by a ball 
 at night, one of the officers of our guard, a bustling, fret- 
 ful little Mexican, rushed into the room out of breath, 
 and ordered us instantly to accompany him to our dis- 
 agreeable quarters of the previous night. From his ex- 
 cited manner we could easily perceive that something 
 had gone wrong, but the nature of his mission was not 
 revealed until we had reached the gloomy prison, which 
 we had determined not to visit until the following morn- 
 ing. The night was rainy and pitchy dark, the hill 
 we were obliged to climb was steep and so slippery 
 from the moistened clay that we could with difficulty 
 make the ascent. Three or four times we fell sprawl- 
 ing to the earth while clambering to the summit ; and 
 it was not until we were all covered with mud, and 
 wet to the skin, that we passed the portals, and the 
 heavy gates of the old mining-house were locked upon 
 us — a sad termination to a pleasantly-spent day, but 
 such ever appeared to be our fortune. 
 
 We were not long kept in suspense as to the cause 
 
140 
 
 A VEXATIOUS BLUNDER. 
 
 of this sudden and unlooked-for movement. It appeared 
 that the Governor of Zacatecas had that evening re- 
 ceived a letter from General Tornel, Minister of War 
 and Marine at Mexico, ordering him instantly to place 
 in close confinement, and under strict guard, Colonel 
 Milam, Antonio Navarro, and Robert Foster. The 
 former had been dead for years, having been killed at 
 the Alamo of San Antonio. Mr. Navarro was then on 
 the spot, but no person answering to the name of Rob- 
 ert Foster could be found, and Roblado questioned each 
 one of the prisoners and examined the different lists 
 thoroughly. The only name that came anywhere near 
 Robert Foster was Thomas Falconer , and Roblado pre- 
 suming that he must be the person alluded to, he was 
 instantly sent for with the rest of us. We all told the 
 captain that Mr. F. was not the man ; but this did not 
 alter his purpose, and poor Falconer was accordingly 
 placed in a small, close room with Mr. Navarro, two 
 sentinels being paraded before them, who shouted “ cen- 
 tinela alerta !” every ten minutes during the dreary 
 night, to keep themselves from falling asleep. 
 
 In the mean while, Van Ness, Whittaker, and myself 
 were constrained again to occupy our disagreeable 
 apartment, where we passed our New-year’s night — 
 now rendered doubly disagreeable to us by contrast 
 with the expected pleasures of the ball, in which we had 
 promised ourselves such delights as would have made 
 some amends for the annoyances and hardships of our 
 unwilling journey. 
 
 We were no sooner in the close and dreary room 
 than new inconveniences presented themselves ; for not 
 supposing, until the Mexican officer came in such haste 
 for us at the Irishman’s fonda, that we were to pass the 
 night at the old mining-house, we had made no prepa- 
 
SUMMARY DEALING WITH A SENTINEL. 141 
 
 rations for our lodging before leaving it in the morning. 
 On our return, therefore, we found that our blankets 
 had already been taken and our places occupied by 
 some of our friends, leaving us almost as badly situated 
 as was poor Falconer. The night, as I have said, was 
 raw, rainy, and uncomfortable, and we were obliged to 
 take up our quarters near the door. A drunken senti- 
 nel, whose duty it was to walk outside and see that 
 none of us left the room, finally opened the door and 
 took his station within — and not content with thus an- 
 noying us, he howled the disagreeable “ centinela aler- 
 ta /” almost incessantly in our ears, until Dr. Whittaker 
 took a summary way of getting .rid of both his presence 
 and his noise. The doctor told the fellow to shut the 
 door and his mouth ; the sentinel answered impudent- 
 ly ; the next moment the doctor knocked him sprawling 
 into the mud outside, musket and all, and then closed 
 and fastened the door after him. We expected that the 
 fellow would make a complaint, and that we should re- 
 ceive a visit from the officer of the guard for an expla- 
 nation ; but we never heard anything more of it. 
 
 An American gentleman promised to forward the let- 
 ters I had written to my friends in the United States, in 
 such a way as would ensure their safe delivery ; and 
 he kept his word, for every one of them reached its 
 destination. I speak of this circumstance, as many of 
 the letters I sent from different points in Mexico never 
 left the country — at least they did not arrive in the Uni- 
 ted States. Generally speaking, the mail arrangements 
 of Mexico are well conducted, and letters and newspa- 
 pers are forwarded with promptness and great regulari- 
 ty ; but the postmasters who stopped my letters doubt- 
 less knew that they were written by some one of the 
 prisoners, and thought they were serving their coun- 
 
142 
 
 GENEROUS DONATIONS. 
 
 try by detaining them ; or perhaps they had orders to 
 do so. 
 
 A subscription was got up among the foreigners in 
 Zacatecas for the benefit of the Texan prisoners, and a 
 sum exceeding one thousand dollars, besides no incon- 
 siderable quantity of clothing, hats, and shoes, was raised 
 for their necessities, the governor and some of the Mex- 
 icans subscribing liberally. The clothing was distribu- 
 ted, and also a small sum of money to each man ; but 
 the larger portion was applied to the hiring of two large 
 American wagons for transporting the sick and infirm, 
 as well as the blankets and small bundles of the prison- 
 ers. The lives of many of our men were doubtless 
 saved by the timely assistance of these wagons, as by 
 this time numbers were ill with the small-pox, and nei- 
 ther Roblado nor the gbVernor dared take the responsi- 
 bility of leaving the poor fellows behind in the hospital. 
 
 At an early hour on the morning of January 2d, the 
 wagons which had been hired arrived at the foot of the 
 hill, below the old mining-house, and the sick were as 
 comfortably stowed in them as circumstances would 
 admit. Shortly after, five horses were sent to our 
 quarters, saddled and bridled, being presents to some 
 of the Texan officers from the Mexican lawyer who 
 had treated us so kindly. After partaking of an excel- 
 lent breakfast, sent us by a French gentleman, we were 
 ordered once more to resume the march towards the 
 city of the Montezumas. 
 
 The main body of prisoners were guarded with no 
 more strictness than heretofore, but an extra guard was 
 detailed for the special purpose of watching Messrs. 
 Navarro and Falconer — riding close by their side and 
 eyeing their every movement. There was something 
 peculiarly hard in the case of the latter. He was more 
 
CONVENT OF GUADALUPE. 
 
 143 
 
 anxious than any of the prisoners to examine thorough- 
 ly such of the cities and towns as we might pass through, 
 had never harboured a single hostile feeling against the 
 country, was innocent of any inimical act, and was now 
 kept a close prisoner, and debarred every little privilege 
 granted the rest of us, for no other reason than that 
 Thomas Falconer sounded more like Robert Foster than 
 any other name on the list. Tornel had seen the name 
 of the latter attached to some of the papers taken at the 
 capture of General McLeod, and supposing that he was 
 an important personage, and among the prisoners, had 
 ordered him to be closely confined and strictly watch- 
 ed. The real personage, whose name, by-the-way, was 
 not Robert, was all the while peaceably and quietly 
 pursuing his avocations as principal clerk in the war 
 office at Austin, Texas. 
 
 Some five or six miles from Zacatecas we passed the 
 celebrated Convent of Guadalupe, an immense pile of 
 buildings, enclosed within a large yard. We could 
 plainly see a number of melancholy, pale-visaged monks, 
 gazing at us from the small windows, doors, and balco- 
 nies of the place. Near this convent, in 1835, the noted 
 battle between Santa Anna and the Zacatecans was 
 fought, which resulted in the discomfiture of the latter, 
 and the subsequent sack of the city. It is said that both 
 armies were defeated, and that both were on the point 
 of retreating ; but that Santa Anna, happening to see a 
 panic among his opponents before they noticed that his 
 men were wavering, was enabled to rally and turn the 
 current in his favour. In the general sack, which soon 
 after took place in the city, the houses of the foreigners, 
 who had taken no part in the opposition to Santa Anna, 
 were indiscriminately plundered with the rest, and two 
 or three gallant Englishmen and Americans were killed 
 
144 
 
 A WARM BATH. 
 
 while stoutly defending their dwellings. Indemnifica- 
 tion for the losses sustained by the foreigners in this out- 
 rage has since been made by the Mexican government. 
 
 A short time after the sack of Zacatecas, Santa Anna 
 was on his way to Texas ; and in less than six months 
 after, the man who had filled grave-yards with victims 
 to his avarice and ambition was upon his knees, cow- 
 ering like a hound, and with uplifted hands begging 
 a life he had richly forfeited by his massacre of Fannin 
 and his men at Goliad, if by no other crime. The ups 
 and downs of this man, than whom no one better quali- 
 fied can be found to govern his own countrymen, would 
 form a singular history. 
 
 Leaving the Convent of Guadalupe, our road led 
 us across level plains until we reached the village of 
 Refugio, where we encamped for the night. Our near- 
 est route to the city of Mexico would have been by a 
 road more to the right ; but as Colonel Cooke and his 
 party had been taken in that direction, it was deter- 
 mined by the Mexican government to give the inhabi- 
 tants of San Luis Potosi and Guanajuato an opportunity 
 to see a portion of the Texan prisoners, and we were 
 therefore ordered to visit those cities in our march. We 
 had plenty of leisure, however ; and as our route took 
 us through the more interesting portion of the country, 
 and gave us an opportunity of seeing several of the 
 finest cities, we cared but little for the extra delay it oc- 
 casioned. 
 
 Early in the afternoon of January 4th, after a pleasant 
 march, we reached the town of Ojo Caliente. Here we 
 were allowed to ramble about wherever we pleased, 
 and there being a noted warm well on the edge of the 
 town, several of our party visited it for the purpose of 
 bathing. The water boils up in great quantities, and 
 
FREEDOM OF THE MEXICAN GIRLS. 
 
 145 
 
 forms a large, deep basin from the very fountain-head. 
 Several of the prisoners immediately divested them- 
 selves of their clothing, and dashed into the refreshing 
 element, diving and swimming about in water just warm 
 enough to be comfortable. Before they left the large 
 natural bathing-tub the party was increased by the ar- 
 rival of several Mexican girls, who, not in the least daunt- 
 ed by the presence of the Texans, immediately joined 
 them in their aquatic sports. With merry and joy- 
 ous laughter they commenced splashing the water about 
 them ; now diving to the bottom, and then rising to the 
 surface, shaking the water from their long hair, and 
 paddling about like Newfoundland dogs. It may not 
 have been generally remarked, and may not be always 
 the case, but nearly all the females I have seen swim — 
 Mexicans, Indians, and all — paddle along after the man- 
 ner of water dogs, and one of them makes more noise 
 than a dozen of the other sex. In San Antonio, where 
 the women are excellent swimmers and visit the river 
 regularly once or twice a day, the noise a party of them 
 make might be mistaken for that of so many porpoises 
 or sea-horses. 
 
 That the females living upon many of the rivers and 
 lakes of Mexico take to the water so naturally, and ap- 
 pear upon its surface divested of those loose garments 
 with which our American ladies are wont to array 
 themselves upon such occasions, may be looked upon 
 as betraying a want of modesty by some of my fair 
 readers ; but with the girls of Mexico there is an ab- 
 sence of all thought that they are doing wrong, which 
 should fully exculpate them from blame. The customs 
 of the country sanction the occurrence of scenes such 
 as I have just mentioned, and many others which would 
 be deemed highly indelicate in other lands ; and how- 
 
 Vol. II.— N 
 
146 
 
 A KENTUCKY CIRCUS-RIDER. 
 
 ever much the foreigner may at first be tempted to 
 doubt their strict correctness, he soon learns that no 
 conventional rules forbid them. True modesty con 
 sists in the thought which governs every action ; and 
 viewed in this light, there was certainly no immodesty 
 in the girls of Ojo Caliente indulging in a bath, even if 
 they did appear “ right before folks,” as the. philosophic 
 Sam Slick would say. 
 
 On the ensuing night we reached El Carro, a fine 
 hacienda belonging to the wealthy Count of Jaral. 
 About noon on the 6th we were halted at the town of 
 Salina, where there are extensive salt-works. Here, 
 at the meson where we stopped, we found a stout Ken- 
 tuckian, who was one of the owners of an American 
 circus company then performing at San Luis Potosi. 
 He was now on his way to Zacatecas, for the purpose 
 of obtaining a suitable place in which to perform in 
 that city, and at the same time the consent of the gov- 
 ernor. As he had arrived at Salina a short time before 
 us, he had, of course, selected the best room in the me- 
 son for his own use. This room happening to please 
 Captain Roblado, he ordered the circus proprietor to 
 leave it ; but the latter told him at once that he had 
 the best right, and should retain possession as long as 
 he pleased. Roblado fumed and swore a little, and 
 then left the place, threatening to bring the alcalde to 
 his assistance. The Kentuckian went soon after to the 
 alcalde’s residence, but before he reached it he found 
 that Roblado had been there before him, and had pro- 
 cured a writ of ejectment. The American was now 
 forced to leave the room ; but he remarked that if he 
 had but reached the alcalde’s first, and slipped a dollar 
 into his hand, he could have retained possession of the 
 room even though fifty Roblados had wanted it. The 
 
MEXICAN TAVERNS. 
 
 147 
 
 dollar is the most powerful weapon with many of the 
 officers of justice in Mexico, and when it is employed 
 law and equity must step aside. 
 
 The English or American traveller, used to the com- 
 forts and conveniences of his own well-kept taverns, 
 meets with but a sorry reception and miserable fare at 
 the Mexican house of entertainment, or meson, as it is 
 called. They are all built in the same style, the en- 
 trance being through a large gate or passage-way 
 which leads into a patio, or court, in the interior. On 
 either side of this yard are the rooms set apart for the 
 reception of travellers. Another passage leads from 
 this into the yard which his beast occupies, and which 
 has a large trough of water in the centre, with uncom- 
 fortable stalls on the sides. The tired wayfarer is con- 
 ducted to his room ; but no friendly bed meets his anx- 
 ious gaze. He sees, perhaps, a species of form, built 
 of adobes and mortar, upon which he can spread his 
 sarape, or Mexican blanket, and himself ; or, mayhap, a 
 corner of the floor is pointed out to him as a favourite 
 spot on which to establish himself for the night ; neither 
 bed nor bedding is provided by the landlord. The 
 first care of every prudent traveller is to bring his sad- 
 dle, bridle, and the other trappings of his horse or mule, 
 together with all and singular his own personal effects, 
 into his room. If he understands well the population, 
 he contrives to sleep upon as much of his property as 
 possible, to prevent the leperos and ladrones from ap- 
 propriating it during the night ; for every Mexican 
 town has its band of petty pilferers, ready to steal the 
 very strings from the traveller’s shoes, should he not 
 take the precaution to lie down and sleep with them on. 
 
 The wayfarer is now housed — his next care is for his 
 inward man, and here new difficulties arise. The Mex- 
 
148 
 
 FIERY EATING. 
 
 ican landlord sets no public table — provides no meal, 
 and very likely keeps no provisions fit for his foreign 
 guests. At the cocina, or kitchen, amid the steams of 
 rank and highly-seasoned stews, he may esteem him- 
 self lucky if he can purchase a bowl of mutton broth, a 
 coarse earthen platter of frijoles, or, perchance, a gui- 
 sado so particularly high-seasoned with red pepper that 
 the skin of his mouth is in danger of going down his 
 throat at the first swallow. Ten chances to one if he 
 is fortunate enough to find knife, fork, or spoon — articles 
 by no means necessary in Mexican housekeeping. But 
 what need of these when he has his own good fingers 
 and a plate of those ever-accompanying and never-fail- 
 ing thin cakes, yclept tortillas, to fall back upon? The 
 soup he drinks from the bowl ; a spoon he manufactures 
 by tearing off a piece of tortilla and doubling it into a 
 species of scoop, and with this he is enabled to shovel 
 up a mouthful of his frijoles or guisado and carry it to 
 his jaws. Tortilla and all are swallowed, for with 
 every fresh mouthful a fresh spoon is made. Should 
 the stranger happen to swallow a bit of guisado so out- 
 rageously hot with red pepper that from very agony a 
 freshet of tears starts from his eyes, some by-standing 
 Mexican exclaims that it is “ bueno por el estomago” — 
 good for the stomach ! Fine consolation this, especial- 
 ly for an American ; for what does an American care 
 for his stomach? We may all fume and rage against 
 Mrs. Trollope and Dickens, and work ourselves into 
 a most patriotic fury at their strictures ; but it cannot 
 be denied that too many of us impose terrible taxes 
 upon our digestive organs by bolting our food in over- 
 haste and half masticated. Too many of us, again, 
 consult but our tastes. We make a hopper of our 
 mouths, feed it to overflowing with the richest dishes 
 
MODERATE BILLS. 
 
 149 
 
 until that trough or reservoir called the stomach is run- 
 ning over, stop suddenly in our eating, rush to business 
 as though life and death depended upon our exertions, 
 and spend half our lives wondering why we are troubled 
 with indigestion and dyspepsia ! I hope my country- 
 men will pardon the truth and the episode, while I go 
 back to the tavern. 
 
 There is one thing the traveller in Mexico gets in all 
 its perfection, and that is chocolate. They may have it 
 as good in Spain — but in no part of the United States, 
 or of the British possessions upon its borders, can any- 
 thing approaching it be made — so fragrant, so rich, so 
 delicious. But when he has swallowed his chocolate, 
 there is an end to everything like perfection. The 
 traveller, if anywhere in the vicinity of the tierras ca- 
 lientes, may eke out his dinner with the fruits which 
 grow there in endless variety and profusion, and of 
 most delicious and nutritious quality ; but nowhere 
 need he look for the roast beef, the boiled mutton, the 
 potatoes, the pies, the puddings, or the thousand-and- 
 one substantials and delicacies to which he has been 
 accustomed. Such is tavern life in Mexico, at least at 
 a majority of the mesones and fondas scattered through 
 the smaller towns and cities. What the charge is for the 
 lodging of a man and the stabling of his beast over 
 night, I do not know — the Mexican government paid 
 all my bills of this nature during the interesting tour I 
 made through that country. The prices are moderate, 
 however, especially away from the larger cities. A 
 dish of frijoles, or of guisado, with a stack of some half 
 dozen tortillas to match, seldom costs more than six or 
 nine cents ; and as upon these the traveller is generally 
 obliged to subsist, his expenses are light. With a dol- 
 lar and twenty-five cents or thereabout per diem, I 
 
 N 2 
 
150 
 
 HOW TO MAKE TORTILLA3. 
 
 should suppose a man could pay his own expenses and 
 those of his beast on the principal routes of the country, 
 and live through it, unless some of los senores ladrones 
 should see fit to stop his breath for the mere love of 
 whatever plunder might be got from him. 
 
 Should the traveller happen to be at a village where 
 there is no meson, it is considered the duty of the al- 
 calde to furnish him with accommodations ; but if night 
 overtakes him at a poor rancho, where there is no al- 
 calde, his situation is truly deplorable. He alights at 
 the door of the best-appearing hut in the group, and 
 after kicking and quieting some half dozen yelping, 
 worthless curs, which seem inclined to dispute his pas- 
 sage by threats only — they never go so far as to bite — 
 he at length effects an entrance. The room serves for 
 all purposes — kitchen, parlour, and sleeping apartment.* 
 
 * The reader must bear in mind that I am now speaking of the dwellings 
 of the very lowest and poorest classes, although a large majority of the in- 
 habitants have but a common room in which to eat and sleep. Attached 
 to this apartment, in many instances, may be found a small room which 
 serves as a kitchen, and in which the little cooking of the family is done. In 
 this kitchen the tortillas are made, and as the process may not prove unin- 
 teresting, I will quote Madame Calderon’s description of the manner in which 
 they are manufactured : “ They first soak the grain in water with a little 
 lime, and when it is soft peel off the skin — then grind it on a large block of 
 stone, the metate, or, as the Indians (who know best) call it, the metall. Foi 
 the purpose of grinding it, they use a sort of stone roller, with which it is 
 crushed, and rolled into a bowl placed below the stone. They then take 
 some of this paste, and clap it between their hands, till they form it into 
 light round cakes, which are afterward toasted on a smooth plate, called the 
 comalli (comal they call it in Mexico), and which ought to be eaten as hot as 
 possible.” I agree, most decidedly, with the fair authoress, that they “ ought 
 to be eaten as hot as possible,” if at all —- for from all such tough, heavy, and 
 unsavoury cakes I beg to be delivered. Most excellent bread do the Mexicans 
 make — white, light, and sweet — and why they spoil their corn by convert- 
 ing it into tortillas is a mystery. Two women or girls are always engaged 
 in making them — one to grind the grain, the other to form the cakes — and 
 pass by a hut, either at night or morning, the traveller is sure to hear the pat- 
 ting of hands which denotes the progress of manufacture. When cooked, if 
 the Mexican has no frijoles, he besmears the tortilla with a composition of 
 
SCANTY FURNITURE. 
 
 151 
 
 There is no floor other than the hard-trodden earth ; it 
 is bedless, furnitureless, comfortless. The tired way- 
 farer looks around for some friendly evidence of food 
 and rest — his beast without neighs aloud for corn, shel- 
 ter, and some one to relieve him of his heavy load of 
 saddle and baggage. Upon the rough walls of the 
 room are to be seen, neatly enough arrayed with gar- 
 lands of flowers and boughs, a collection of badly-ex- 
 ecuted lithographs, gaudily coloured, and intended to 
 represent different scenes in the life of our Saviour and 
 the Holy Mother. The centre of the little group is oc- 
 cupied, perhaps, by a rude wooden cross, trimmed with 
 faded flowers. Beneath is probably a lithograph — 
 sometimes an old engraving — of the Virgin of Guada- 
 lupe, while over it is suspended a picture representing 
 the ascension of our Saviour. The crucifixion occupies 
 a conspicuous place, then a print of the Virgin and 
 Holy Child, and then an ingeniously- wrought crown of 
 thorns, or a rosary and crucifix. A brass medal of 
 Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, and probably a litho- 
 graph of the patron saint of the country, will be seen 
 in the collection, the former suspended by a red or yel- 
 low riband. A little bit of looking-glass generally com- 
 pletes the arrangement, for this piece of wordly vanity 
 almost always has its station, in a Mexican cottage, in- 
 close proximity with the rude symbols of the faith of its 
 inmates. On other parts of the walls the traveller sees 
 little save strings of dry red peppers, perhaps a few ears 
 of corn, and the coarse earthen bowls and dishes of the 
 occupants. 
 
 Turning his eyes to the floor, in one corner he sees 
 
 red pepper and mutton fat, and always appears perfectly contented if he can 
 procure a sufficiency of this singular food, with pulque enough to wash it 
 down. 
 
152 
 
 NOTHING TO EAT. 
 
 the universal metate, or stone instrument upon which 
 the corn is mashed or ground before it is made into tor- 
 tillas. In the next corner, probably, a fighting cock is 
 tied by the leg, giving an occasional crow of defiance 
 to some brother chicken tied in the same way in the 
 adjoining or opposite house. Another corner is occu- 
 pied, perhaps, by an elderly hen sitting upon a nest of 
 eggs, while in the last stands a coarse box or chest, 
 containing the little odds and ends belonging to the 
 family in the way of dresses and ornaments. In this 
 room, which is not more than ten or twelve feet square, 
 live, sleep, and eat some eight, ten, or perhaps twelve 
 persons, large and small, male and female, and with 
 these the traveller is obliged to make his bed, or take up 
 with lodgings upon the ground outside, which is every 
 way preferable if the weather permits. “ If a man 
 lies down with a dog he gets up with fleas,” says the 
 old proverb — if he lies down with Mexicans of the 
 lower classes he gets up with something worse, say I. 
 
 But sleep is a secondary, an after consideration — the 
 wayfarer must have something to eat. He asks the 
 master of the establishment if he has any meat. Nine 
 times out of ten the answer is, “ No hai ” — there is none 
 — accompanied by raising the right hand to a level with 
 his nose, closing it with the exception of the forefinger, 
 and then, with the palm turned outwardly, wagging the 
 upraised finger directly before the face. Bread is next 
 asked for. The answer this time is another wag of the 
 forefinger, which is to all intents and purposes a nega- 
 tive ; but frequently the word “ tampoco” is uttered, sig- 
 nifying that there is neither bread nor meat on the prem- 
 ises. The traveller asks for milk or eggs. “ No ha ' 
 nada” — no, there is nothing here — is the answer, un- 
 less, by some turn of good fortune, his host happens to 
 
HIGH-WAYS AND BY-WAYS. 
 
 153 
 
 own a goat or a cow, or has had extraordinary luck 
 with his poultry. It is only when the hungry wayfarer 
 is driven to the strait of asking for tortillas or frijoles 
 that the welcome “ si hai ” — we have them — greets his 
 ear. With these he at least stays the cravings of hun- 
 ger, and after having made such provision for his horse 
 as the poverty of the rancho allows, he gathers his prop- 
 erty as nearly under him as possible, rolls himself in his 
 sarape, and seeks forgetfulness and rest in sleep. 
 
 The above is a picture of life in Mexico, among the 
 lower classes of the inhabitants, the fidelity of which 
 will be attested by all who have travelled over the 
 country. Flying tourists, who have confined their trip 
 to Puebla, Mexico, Queretaro, Guanajuato, and such 
 places as they could reach in stage-coaches, can learn 
 little from their own personal experience ; for with the 
 introduction of this mode of travelling came regular 
 stage-houses, where regular and more bountiful meals 
 are served up. They must journey upon the backs of 
 mules, and through the less-frequented highways, before 
 they can come to a proper understanding of the coun- 
 try and the modes of living of its inhabitants. 
 
154 
 
 A MODERATE WrgH. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Departure from Salina. — Last Speech of the Kentucky Circus Pioprietor. — 
 His Wishes in relation to Roblado. — Arrival at Espiritu Santo. — Pass a 
 pleasant Evening. — A Contrast. — La Parada. — Wild mountain Scenery. — 
 The Organo. — A picturesque View. — First Sight of San Luis Potosi. — A 
 beautiful Valley. — Innumerable Wells. — Large Prickly Pears. — The Peru- 
 vian Tree. — Our Approach to San Luis heralded. — Arrival within the City. 
 — Beauty of the Women. — Description of San Luis. — Its Churches, Con- 
 vents, and public Buildings. — Convent of the Augustine Friars. — Benevo- 
 lence of the Brotherhood. — Wants of the Sick provided for. — An evening 
 Stroll through the City. — Market Scenes. — Encounter with a Company of 
 Equestrians. — A droll Specimen of the Y ankee Genus. — “ Old Hundred” 
 in San Luis. — Return to the Convent. — Visited by the Eoreigners.— Our 
 Yankee Wag and his Stories. — Subscription for the Prisoners raised. — 
 Allowed our Parole. — An interesting Scotch Lady. — Visit to the Circus. — 
 Appearance of the Audience. — An Invitation to Supper. — Find ourselves in 
 the wrong House. — Apologies unnecessary. — Supper at last. — An Opportu- 
 nity to write to my Friends improved. — Departure from San Luis. — A new 
 Guard and new Commander. — An interesting Incident. — Las Pilas. — Arri- 
 val at El Jaral.— Anecdote of General Mina. — Wealth of the Proprietor.— 
 A singular Funeral Procession.- — A ‘‘Hog on Horseback.” — Description of 
 the Arrieros of Mexico. 
 
 As we were about departing from Salina, the Kentucky 
 circus proprietor rode up to take his leave of us. Just 
 as he was turning his horse’s head, in the direction of 
 Zacatecas, Roblado passed by on a gallop, the Ken- 
 tuckian simply remarking that he would like to have 
 him, and six more just like him, in a close room for 
 about ten minutes, the door to be locked on the outside, 
 and the windows strongly barred. He entertained 
 what he called a private opinion, but which he express- 
 ed publicly, that the whole of them would “ find them- 
 selves most essentially chawed up” in less than that 
 time. After uttering this short but emphatic speech, he 
 too put spurs to his horse and galloped off in an opposite 
 direction. I have little doubt that such odds as even 
 
CONTRASTS OF A NIGHT. 
 
 155 
 
 seven Roblados would have fared badly in his hands, 
 for the Kentuckian was a well-made, stalwart specimen 
 of our Western men, and had that determined expres- 
 sion of countenance which plainly indicated that he 
 meant what he said. 
 
 In the afternoon we reached Espiritu Santo, a noble 
 hacienda, having a fine church and a very well-inform- 
 ed and gentlemanly priest. Here, too, we met with a 
 good blacksmith, and as the road beyond was reported 
 to be exceedingly rough and rocky, several of our par- 
 ty embraced the opportunity of having their animals 
 shod. Fortunate it was that we did so, for we found 
 the road even worse than had been represented. 
 
 Our night at Espiritu Santo was one of the most 
 pleasant on the whole route. A Mexican gentleman 
 residing there had two or three very pretty daughters, 
 girls who had been educated in Europe and seen much 
 of the world, and there were also several well-informed 
 and intelligent ladies attached to the priest’s family. At 
 night a tertulia, or party, was given to the Mexican 
 officers by the former, to which a number of the Texans 
 were invited. One of the young ladies, in particular, 
 waltzed gracefully, and played upon the guitar with ex- 
 cellent skill. A generous supper was given during the 
 evening, and thus, amid music and the dance, feast- 
 ing, and the charms of well-bred society, the night wore 
 away at Espiritu Santo — the next we passed in mis- 
 erable quarters at the poor and worn-out hacienda of 
 La Parada. Surely, the hours of our captivity were 
 checkered. 
 
 The country between La Parada and San Luis Po- 
 tosi is wild, mountainous, and exceedingly picturesque. 
 Often the traveller finds himself winding along through 
 deep, dark, and dreary barrancas, or mountain passes. 
 
156 
 
 THE OEGANO-TREE. 
 
 surrounded on all sides by high and rugged precipices. 
 Many of these passes are not more than twenty or thir- 
 ty yards in width, having pure streams of swift-running 
 water dashing through them, and enlivened here and 
 there by the rude mud dwelling of some family that has 
 chosen the secluded retreat for a home. On either side 
 the mountains rise in abrupt and precipitous masses, 
 shutting out the sun almost entirely except for an hour 
 or two in the middle of the day. Wild flowers of al- 
 most every variety and hue, sending forth delicious 
 fragrance upon the pure mountain air, are to be seen on 
 every side; orange and other fruit trees grow luxu- 
 riantly, and in one of these passes we for the first time 
 met with the tall and symmetrical organo plant, a spe- 
 cies of the cactus. It is about gix inches in diameter at 
 the base, tapering upward very gradually, from eighteen 
 to twenty-five feet in height, and almost entirely desti- 
 tute of limbs or leaves. As it is an evergreen, and 
 grows perfectly straight, it is in many parts of Mexico 
 planted closely in rows, and when it attains its full size 
 and height makes a neat and strong fence — as symmet- 
 rical in every particular as though the hand of man had 
 fashioned it. This singular production of nature re- 
 ceives its name from the resemblance a row of the trees 
 has to the pipes of an organ. The prickly pear was 
 also seen growing upon the almost perpendicular mount- 
 ain sides, and here goats and ragged, rough-coated don- 
 keys were picking a scanty subsistence from the thorny 
 herbage. The climate in these mountain passes, for 
 they scarcely deserve the name of valleys, is delightfully 
 mild, and the limited wants of the scattered inhabitants 
 are easily supplied by the vegetables that grow upon a 
 few square rods of land. Ignorant of the wide world 
 from which they are shut out, its cares and its vanities, 
 
APPROACH TO SAN LUIS. 
 
 157 
 
 the poor Indians here pass their days in peace and qui- 
 etness, and in apparent unconsciousness of the wild sub- 
 limity with which they are surrounded. 
 
 Emerging from one of these passes, the traveller finds 
 himself climbing the rocky sides of precipices that at 
 first sight seem impassable. By slow degrees the mount- 
 ain summit is reached, and then he is amply repaid for 
 his toil by the scenes below him — scenes full of calm 
 repose and quiet beauty, for distance has softened the 
 harshness of the rugged barranca and subdued the as- 
 perities of the wild precipices by which it is hemmed 
 in. Our wagons with the sick had been sent by a dif- 
 ferent road, it being utterly impossible for aught save 
 man or beast to make the passage through these mount- 
 ain gorges. 
 
 After toiling some six hours in gaining as many 
 miles, we finally reached the summit of the mountains 
 which overhang the beautiful valley of San Luis on its 
 northern side. In our rear was a rude and broken 
 country — a country formed by nature in one of her 
 wildest freaks — before us was spread out a boundless 
 and peaceful valley. In the distance the numerous 
 domes and steeples of San Luis Potosi were seen rising, 
 while all around were rich and fertile fields teeming with 
 vegetation, and this, too, in the month of January. In- 
 numerable well-sweeps were seen rising and falling in 
 every part of the valley, for here there are no irrigating 
 canals, and the inhabitants are compelled to depend on 
 wells for water to moisten the earth. 
 
 Descending the mountains by a rough, zigzag path, in 
 many places so steep that we were obliged to dismount 
 and lead or drive our animals, we at length gained the 
 valley in safety. Here we found a wide, straight road, 
 skirted, on both sides, by huge prickly pear-trees, and 
 
 VOL. II.— O 
 
158 
 
 SAN LUIS POTOSI. 
 
 leading directly into the city, now distant some six or 
 seven miles. Those who have never seen the prickly 
 pear as it grows in Mexico can hardly believe accounts 
 of the immense size which it attains. I have seen the 
 trunks of some at least two feet in diameter, growing 
 eight or ten feet in height without a limb, and then 
 branching off in every direction. As we drew nearer 
 the city, the roadsides were planted with rows of Peru- 
 vian trees, a species of pepper or spice, their wide- 
 spreading limbs and rich green foliage forming a shady 
 arbour over our pathway, while pendent clusters of red 
 berries, of aromatic fragrance, were hanging gracefully 
 from every little twig and bough. Here and there a 
 dwelling-house would be seen, the front yard fenced in 
 by the towering organo, which completely cut off all 
 view of the habitation save through the vacant space 
 left in front for an entrance. 
 
 The self-important Roblado had sent on his trumpet- 
 ers, as usual, to herald our approach, and the principal 
 streets through which we passed were thronged with 
 dense masses of the inhabitants. San Luis is one of the 
 best-built cities of Mexico, regularly laid out, and with 
 an air of cleanliness not common in a Mexican town. 
 The women, too, are somewhat famous for their gen- 
 eral beauty — they certainly have small and perfectly- 
 formed feet and hands, large and lustrous eyes, and hair 
 more black and glossy than any other females I saw 
 while travelling almost three thousand miles through 
 the country. The windows and balconies of the better 
 houses were filled with the fashionables, while the girls 
 of the poorer classes, who seemed as though they had 
 run from their houses half dressed in their great haste 
 to see los Tejanos, were gathered on either side the 
 streets in countless numbers. 
 
HOSPITABLE MONKS. 
 
 159 
 
 The city of San Luis Potosi, with its immediate sub- 
 urbs, must contain some fifty thousand inhabitants. 
 Like Mexico, it is built in a wide valley, much of which 
 is fertile in the growth of Indian corn and wheat, be- 
 sides affording excellent pasturage for immense herds 
 of sheep. The city was a place of great wealth while 
 the adjacent gold mines were productive ; but since the 
 working of them has ceased it has lost much of its for- 
 mer consequence. The inhabitants, however, appear 
 to be engaged to no inconsiderable extent in the manu- 
 facture of clothing, shoes, hats, and different articles of 
 iron, and a quantity of grain is raised in the valley far 
 exceeding the wants of the population. The churches, 
 convents, and public institutions are magnificent, and 
 will vie with those of any city in Mexico — a country 
 abounding with the grandest specimens of religious 
 architecture. 
 
 Passing through the principal plaza of the city, which 
 is surrounded by stately churches, palaces, and residen- 
 ces of the higher orders, we at length reached the con- 
 vent of the Augustine friars. This is a rich establish- 
 ment, and the holy and benevolent brotherhood kindly 
 appropriated two or three large rooms in their convent 
 to our use. Here our sick, were attended to, visited by 
 Mexican physicians, and several of those who were in 
 the most hopeless condition were taken to the hospital 
 to be better attended. How different this from the un- 
 kind treatment we had experienced but a few days 
 previous at Zacatecas ! 
 
 No sooner had dark set in than Van Ness, who had 
 no little influence with the Mexican officers from the 
 fact of his speaking their language, obtained permission 
 to leave the convent without a guard, accompanied by 
 one of the Texan officers and myself. First ascertain- 
 
160 
 
 A MEXICAN MARKET-PLACE. 
 
 ing the name of the street in which our quarters were 
 situated, we strolled off at random into the heart of the 
 city. A walk of but a few squares brought us to the 
 market, which was now filled with the venders of every 
 species of eatable, drinkable, and wearable article. 
 Seated upon the ground, a female might be seen with a 
 few chiles colorados, or red peppers, for sale, her mer- 
 chandise dimly lighted by a small fire beside her. But 
 a few steps distant another woman, with a scanty sup- 
 ply of frijoles, would be quietly awaiting a customer, 
 and her next neighbour was probably sitting by the side 
 of an earthen pot of chile guisado, kept hot by a small 
 charcoal fire beneath. In her lap would be a small pile 
 of tortillas, and ever and anon, as some hungry custom- 
 er gave her a call, she would throw two or three of the 
 tortillas upon the fire to warm, dip a saucer of the gui- 
 sado from the pot before her, and after receiving her 
 quartillo in advance, hand over the eatables to the pur- 
 chaser. The quartillo is a copper coin about the size 
 of one of our pennies, but passes for three. There is a 
 small portion of silver in the Mexican copper coins — 
 just enough to make it an object to counterfeit them — ■ 
 and it is said that large quantities of spurious quartillos 
 have been manufactured in the United States and in 
 England expressly for the Mexican market. 
 
 The market-place of San Luis occupies a large square, 
 and every part of it was in some way put to use by the 
 females. Twenty-five cents would have purchased the 
 whole stock in trade of a large portion of them; yet 
 they seemed perfectly happy, and would chat away, 
 while smoking their cigarritos, with the greatest vivacity 
 and cheerfulness. There may not have been as many 
 languages spoken as in the New-Orleans market, bu< 
 there was as much talking, and even more bustle and 
 
A GENUINE DOWN-EASTER. 
 
 161 
 
 confusion. The square was filled with soldiers off duty, 
 loafers, market-women, girls, monks, gamblers, leperos, 
 venders of oranges and other fruits, robbers, friars, fel- 
 lows with fighting chickens under their blankets — in 
 short, one of those miscellaneous collections always to 
 be found about a Mexican market square. The adjoin- 
 ing buildings were occupied as drinking and cigar shops, 
 retail fancy stores, and dwelling houses of the poorer 
 orders. Around the liquor shops were seen a few 
 drunken Indians, the husbands or brothers, probably, of 
 some of the market-women, who had spent one half of 
 their hard earnings in the purchase of mescal or aguar- 
 diente. 
 
 Entering an estanquillo, or shop licensed to sell ci- 
 gars, we met two or three faces so decidedly Anglo- 
 Saxon in complexion and feature that we at once ac- 
 costed them in English, and were answered by one of 
 the party with a drawl and twang so peculiarly “ Down 
 East,” that Marble, Hackett, or Yankee Hill might have 
 taken lessons from him. We soon ascertained that they 
 belonged to the American circus company then per- 
 forming at San Luis, and on telling them who we were 
 they at once invited us to their meson to supper. The 
 first speaker, who proved to be a regular Vermonter, 
 was not a little surprised to see us out without a guard, 
 and asked if we had received permission to that effect. 
 His astonishment was removed when we told him that 
 we were allowed to leave our quarters on parole. 
 
 In five minutes after our arrival at the hotel of the 
 equestrians, I found that our Vermont acquaintance was 
 one of the quaintest specimens of the Yankee race I had 
 ever seen, and not a few examples had I met previous 
 to my encounter with him. He had a droll impediment 
 in his speech which gave to his actions and gestures a 
 
 02 
 
162 “ OLD HUNDRED.” 
 
 turn irresistibly comic, and then he told an excellent 
 story, played the trombone, triangle, and bass viol, spoke 
 Spanish well, drove one of the circus wagons, transla- 
 ted the bills, turned an occasional somerset in the ring, 
 cracked jokes in Spanish with the Mexican clown, took 
 the tickets at the entrance with one hand, while with 
 the other he beat an accompaniment to the orchestra 
 inside on the bass-drum, and, in short, made himself 
 “ generally useful.” After partaking of an excellent 
 supper, we spent an agreeable hour in his room, listen- 
 ing to story after story of his adventures. He “ come 
 out” to Mexico, to use his own words, by way of Chi- 
 huahua, accompanying the traders from Jonesborough, 
 on Red River, in the first and only expedition across the 
 immense prairies. They were some six or eight months 
 on the road, and suffered incredible hardships for want 
 of water and provisions. Our Yankee was a stout man 
 when we saw him, but he told us that he was a perfect 
 transparency when he first arrived at the Mexican set- 
 tlements — so poor, in fact, that according to his own 
 account “ a person might have read the New-England 
 Primer through him without specs.” 
 
 When ten o’clock came we rose to depart ; but the 
 droll genius insisted that we should first partake of a 
 glass of egg-nog with him, and then help him to sing 
 “ Old Hundred” in remembrance of old times. There 
 are few persons in the New-England States who can- 
 not go through this ancient and well-known psalm-tune 
 after some fashion, and although neither time nor place 
 was exactly befitting, we all happened to be from that 
 quarter, and could not resist complying with his comico- 
 serious request. He really had a good voice, and, for 
 aught I know, may have led the singing in his native 
 village church. After humming a little, apparently to 
 
A MERRY VISITER. 
 
 163 
 
 get the right pitch, he started off with a full, rich tone ; 
 but suddenly checking himself in the middle of the first 
 line, said that the thing was not yet complete. Taking 
 a double-bass from its resting-place in one corner of the 
 room, he soon had the instrument tuned, and then re- 
 commenced with this accompaniment. Never have I 
 heard a performance so strangely mingling the grave 
 and the comic. It was odd enough to see one of his 
 vocation in a strange land thus engaged — and then the 
 solemnity and zeal with which he sawed and sang away 
 were perfectly irresistible. I did not laugh ; but thoughts 
 arose in my mind very little accordant with the earnest 
 and devotional spirit with which our strange compan- 
 ion went through his share of the performance. This 
 curious scene over, a scene which is probably without 
 a parallel in the history of San Luis Potosi, we took 
 leave of our singular acquaintance, who promised to 
 call at the convent early the next morning, and do 
 everything in his power to assist those among the Tex- 
 ans who were the most destitute. 
 
 During the forenoon of the day which followed this 
 strange night adventure, we were visited at the convent 
 by a large number of foreigners — Scotch, Irish, Eng- 
 lish, German, French, and American. Our Yankee ac- 
 quaintance also made his appearance, with several of 
 his companions, and for an hour or two the old cloisters 
 fairly rang with laughter at his merry jokes. The mad 
 wag had an inexhaustible fund of humorous anecdote, 
 and one great charm about his jokes was, that while 
 his hearers’ sides were shaking at their recital, his own 
 face was as solemn as that of any of the Yucatan idols 
 which grace the volumes of Stephens or Norman. A 
 faint twinkle of humour, enough to show that he felt 
 the full comic force of his story, might be seen lurking 
 
1G4 
 
 VISIT TO A CIRCUS. 
 
 about the corners of his eyes ; but farther than this he 
 did not indulge in outward expressions of mirth. 
 
 Among those who visited our quarters during the 
 day were several of the wealthiest foreign merchants 
 of the place. As Colonel Cooke’s party had not taken 
 San Luis in their route there had been no call upon 
 their charity, and they immediately set about raising a 
 handsome subscription of money and clothing for the 
 more destitute among the prisoners. It was laughable 
 to see some of the latter, who had for months been 
 arrayed only in rags, now suddenly transformed into 
 shabby-genteel dandies by the timely assistance of a 
 suit of fashionable, although second-hand garments. 
 
 At night a small party of us were again permitted to 
 visit the town without a guard, and the next day the 
 commandante of San Luis permitted all the Texan of- 
 ficers to ramble about the town on their parole. In the 
 forenoon I visited a very gentlemanly Scotch merchant 
 of the place, and was introduced to his lady. She, too, 
 was a native of Scotland, but had been many years a 
 resident of San Luis, and was very affable and lady- 
 like in her deportment. She was also very liberal in 
 her gifts to the prisoners — especially to such of them as 
 were her countrymen. 
 
 A performance was given in the afternoon by the 
 equestrians, the large arena in which the bull-fights 
 take place having been neatly fitted up by the com- 
 pany. To this performance we were all invited, and 
 some eight or ten accepted the invitation. We found 
 the arena tolerably well filled with the better classes 
 of the place, and among the audience were many ex- 
 tremely well-dressed ladies. They wore not a little 
 jewelry, and many of them had rich and showy man- 
 tillas ; but by far the greatest charm about them was 
 
UNINVITED GUESTS. 
 
 165 
 
 their large, liquid, black eyes, so full of deep and im- 
 passioned feeling. The riding of the American eques- 
 trians appeared to be new to the audience, and was 
 greeted with repeated shouts of applause, while the an- 
 tics, eccentricities, and jokes of the Mexican clown, all 
 of which had been drilled into him by the wag of a 
 Yankee who managed the concern, proved highly di- 
 verting to the crowd of ragged urchins in attendance. 
 
 A small party of us had received an invitation to sup- 
 per that evening, with a German who had lived in Texas 
 and who spoke English, and while seeking his dwelling 
 we accidentally entered the house of another German, 
 who was one of the wealthiest merchants of the place, 
 and lived in a style of great splendour. Some five or 
 six of us found ourselves suddenly in a richly-furnished 
 drawing-room, in which were seated several Mexican 
 ladies. They manifested not the least constraint, but 
 invited us to be seated at once, and entered into conver- 
 sation with such of our party as could speak the Span- 
 ish. The master of the house, too, politely invited us to 
 take wine with him, and although we did not see the gen- 
 tleman, whose invitation we had accepted, in the room, 
 there was nothing in the deportment of those present to 
 denote that we were unwelcome or even uninvited 
 guests. After we had spent some half an hour in this 
 way, the real individual of whose hospitality we had 
 intended to partake arrived in search of us, and then 
 for the first time we discovered our mistake. After a 
 profusion of apologies on our part, which were deemed 
 entirely unnecessary by the parties upon whom we had 
 thus unceremoniously intruded, we took our leave, but 
 not until we had been urged to take another glass of 
 wine. Even the ladies joined in saying that all apolo- 
 gies were unnecessary, and fairly laughed the thing oil 
 as a most excellent joke. 
 
166 
 
 SMALL-POX SPREADING. 
 
 Arrived at length at the house for which our visit 
 was intended, we there found an excellent supper and 
 wines of the choicest description waiting for us. After 
 passing a couple of hours in their discussion, and in 
 speculation as to what disposition the Mexican govern- 
 ment would make of us after our arrival at the cap- 
 ital, we returned to our quarters in the convent. Here 
 we ascertained that we were to renew our march the 
 next morning, and as I found Falconer, who had not 
 been allowed to leave the convent, busily employed in 
 writing letters, I embraced the opportunity again to ad- 
 dress Mr. Ellis, then our minister at Mexico. I also 
 wrote numerous letters to my friends in the United 
 States, all of which, through the assistance of the friend 
 who took charge of them, arrived in safety. 
 
 It was on the morning of the 12th of January that 
 we took our departure from San Luis Potosi, leaving 
 six or seven of our sick in the hospital — men who were 
 down with the small-pox and other diseases, and utterly 
 unable to travel. A large supply of clothing was dis- 
 tributed among the more destitute the evening before, 
 and also a small sum of money to each man — contribu- 
 tions which had been raised principally among the lib- 
 eral foreign residents. 
 
 Roblado, much to the satisfaction of the prisoners, 
 left us at San Luis. Among our unfortunate men he 
 had obtained the cognomen of “ Salezar the Second,” 
 and by his acts of petty tyranny and cruelty to such as 
 were on foot, had doubtless well earned the title. Our 
 new guard was composed entirely of cavalry, whose 
 commander was a polite and gentlemanly person, dis- 
 posed to grant us every favour and indulgence. I have 
 forgotten the name of this officer, but he had been a 
 prisoner himself in Texas, and frequently spoke of the 
 
A WEALTHY PROPRIETOR. 
 
 167 
 
 excellent treatment he received while in that country. 
 An incident extremely interesting occurred when he 
 first appeared among us. It seems that at the retreat, 
 after the battle of San Jacinto, this officer was wound- 
 ed in the chase, captured by a Texan, and afterward 
 quartered by him at the house of a gentleman, who 
 dressed his wound and bestowed upon him every atten- 
 tion. In the person of Lieutenant Casey, one of our of- 
 ficers, he immediately recognised his former captor and 
 benefactor, and the nature of the meeting between them 
 it is easier to imagine than describe. 
 
 Passing through a fertile and thickly-settled country, 
 the fields many of them fenced in with the organo and 
 prickly pear, we reached the hacienda of Las Pilas early 
 in the afternoon, and halted there for the night. I recol- 
 lect but little of this place, other than that I hired a very 
 pretty girl to wash a shirt and handkerchief. The next 
 day we continued our journey through the beautiful 
 valley of San Francisco, one of the most fertile in Mex- 
 ico. On the 14th of January we arrived at El Jaral, 
 the celebrated residence of the count of that name, who 
 is deemed one of the wealthiest proprietors in all Mex- 
 ico. The town, which is owned by Jaral, has a fine 
 church, and an immense slaughter-house, where about 
 a thousand sheep and goats are said to be killed daily 
 for their hides and tallow alone. The residence of the 
 count himself is a large and imposing building, although 
 destitute of architectural beauty.* The dwellings of 
 his peons, or labourers, and there are some two thou- 
 sand of them, are mostly rude adobe huts, destitute of 
 
 * Ward, in his useful work upon Mexico, says that the live stock owned 
 by the Marquis del Jaral at one time numbered three millions, including hor- 
 ses, mules, horned cattle, sheep, and goats. The famous General Mina, with 
 his small but gallant force of Americans, took this town in 1817, and, accord- 
 ing to the statement of the proprietor, robbed him of $300,000 in specie. 
 
168 
 
 A HOG ON HORSEBACK. 
 
 furniture and every comfort. You may call them by 
 what name you will — Mexican citizens, freemen, or 
 what not — many of them are to all intents slaves — serfs, 
 subject to the will and pleasure of the lord of the im- 
 mense manor. 
 
 We had proceeded but a short distance from El Jaral 
 when we encountered a singularly grave, and, at the 
 same time, ludicrous procession. Borne on the shoul- 
 ders of four men came first a litter, on which a corpse 
 was lying. This was decorated with flowers of differ- 
 ent species, and the bearers were carrying it to El Ja- 
 ral for interment. Not a creature, save the four men 
 who bore the litter, was attached to this singular funer- 
 al procession, but immediately in the rear, and as if en- 
 joying such protection as it afforded, was a female dri- 
 ving a little scrubby, half-starved donkey in the same 
 direction. Upon the back of the ass, with his head 
 turned towards the animal’s tail, a large and extremely 
 fat live hog was riding — the first of the swinish race I 
 had ever seen mounted. His four legs were confined, 
 two on either side of the animal which was bearing him 
 along; and the hog was continually changing the 
 position of his head from one side to the other, in order, 
 apparently, to take the greatest possible comfort under 
 the circumstances. I cannot say that his equestrian 
 performance was altogether as graceful as some I have 
 seen, or that he had that dauntless bearing which gives 
 to feats of horsemanship their greatest charm ; but he 
 certainly manifested a resignation and stoical indiffer- 
 ence which could hardly have been expected, and we 
 laughed outright as the dwarfish donkey, with his 
 whimsical rider, trotted past us, chief mourner, as one 
 of our men remarked, for the person borne upon the 
 litter. I have often heard of a “ hog in armour,” but 
 never expected to see a hog on horseback. 
 
CURIOUS MODE OF TRANSPORTATION. 
 
 169 
 
 It is singular enough, and a matter which strikes 
 every traveller with wonder who journeys through 
 Mexico, with what facility the arrieros, or muleteers, 
 can confine almost any burden upon the backs of ass- 
 es and mules. Frequently we met moving fodder- 
 stacks along the road — many of them nearly the size 
 of a common load of hay — and as no living thing could 
 be seen about them, their appearance at first struck us 
 as curious in the extreme. Large bodies of wheat- 
 straw, square and compact, and reaching within an 
 inch of the ground, would be seen approaching us, and 
 it was only when we bent close to the earth that their 
 locomotive power could be seen. By looking in this 
 position the four feet of the animal beneath the stack 
 could be discovered — head, body, ears, and all being 
 alike concealed under the bulky load which was pack- 
 ed, with the greatest regard to symmetry, upon his 
 back. Almost the entire transportation business of the 
 country is carried on in this way, and the traveller sees 
 boxes, bales, barrels — in short, every species of mer- 
 chandise — carried from one point to another securely 
 packed upon the backs of mules and asses. 
 
 The arrieros of Mexico are the most hardy, brave, 
 generous, and trustworthy of her inhabitants — a class 
 of men in whom the utmost reliance can be placed, and 
 whose calling, requiring them to be constantly roaming 
 from point to point and mixing with the world, supplies 
 them with a fund of anecdote and the legendary lore 
 of the country, and renders them well-informed and ex- 
 ceedingly entertaining companions. From what I saw 
 and heard of them they are universally to be trusted 
 with any charge, and their word may invariably be 
 depended upon — which is a good deal more than can 
 Vol. II.— P 
 
170 
 
 MEXICAN ARRIEROS. 
 
 be said of any other class, as a body, in Mexico, whether 
 civil, military, or ecclesiastical. 
 
 The dress of the arriero is a pair of green or blue 
 broadcloth pantaloons, foxed or trimmed with velvet 
 or morocco, and slashed from the knee downward, 
 while the sides are ornamented with a profusion of 
 bright bell-buttons. Under these he wears flowing 
 linen drawers, and both are confined around the waist 
 by a gay sash. The bosom of the shirt is often elabo- 
 rately worked, and over this a close-fitting jacket, dec- 
 orated with a large quantity of bell-buttons and braid, 
 is worn. Attached to his heels are an immense pair 
 of iron or steel spurs, the rowel of a circumference 
 equal to the palm of his hand, and having little steel 
 ornaments at the sides, which tinkle at every step. A 
 wide-brimmed hat, partially pointed at the top, covered 
 with oiled silk, and around which gold or silver braid 
 and tassels are confined, sits jauntily upon the head ; 
 and thus equipped, and mounted upon his richly-capar- 
 isoned horse or mule, the Mexican muleteer is one of 
 the most picturesque, as well as showy horsemen in the 
 world. 
 
 The stock in trade of the arriero consists of as many 
 mules as he has money to purchase, with an aparejo 
 for each. The latter is nothing more than a heavy, 
 clumsy pack-saddle, confined to the mule’s back by a 
 hair-girth, and kept from slipping too far forward by a 
 wide crupper, which is frequently embroidered, and 
 has the name either of the mule or his master, or, per- 
 haps, a couplet of poetry or some old Spanish proverb 
 applicable to the calling of the arriero, worked with 
 thread upon its sides.* At night, the mules are formed 
 
 * On the crupper of a pack-mule I remember reading the following : “ Be- 
 tween women and wine the poor arriero gets nothing." 
 
MANAGEMENT OF THEIR BEASTS. 171 
 
 in line and unpacked, and then either driven to pasture 
 or fed at the corral attached to the meson. In the 
 morning, the animals walk directly up to their saddles, 
 and there stand patiently until packed. Not unfre- 
 quently does it occur that each mule knows his own 
 particular aparejo, and unerringly picks it out from a 
 hundred ranged in a row; should one of them, more 
 stupid or careless than his fellows, chance to take his 
 stand in front of another’s saddle and load, the real 
 owner soon convinces him of his mistake by a shower 
 of well-directed kicks ; and as if all felt it a duty to 
 punish stupidity, the unfortunate animal generally has a 
 dozen pairs of heels flying at him before he finds his 
 own aparejo. 
 
 The work of packing, when, as I have before stated, 
 boxes, bales, barrels, and every species of merchandise 
 are thus transported in Mexico, occupies an incredibly 
 short time, the arriero superintending his mozos, or ser- 
 vants, and directing them how and upon what mules to 
 pack the heavier articles. When all is in readiness for 
 the journey, he leads the procession, followed by some 
 more steady and aged mule, which is looked upon by 
 his followers as the bell-wether of the gang. So tight- 
 ly drawn are the girths, that the animals are not only 
 galled, but frequently find much difficulty in breathing, 
 and in the early part of a day’s journey manifest not a 
 little pain and uneasiness by tossing aloft their heads, 
 and giving utterance to loud grunts or groans ; yet it is 
 deemed impossible to fasten their loads securely with- 
 out thus torturing them, their backs and sides, when un- 
 laden at night, giving painful evidence of their sufferings 
 during the day. When on the road not one of them 
 can be coaxed or beaten into passing their leader, and 
 when he comes to a halt they also stop until he moves 
 
172 
 
 THEIR GOOD QUALITIES. 
 
 again. Whenever anything breaks, or a pack becomes 
 loose, the mozo is at hand with a blind to place over 
 the mule’s eyes, and a piece of raw-hide in his pocket 
 to repair damages. Thus the whole business is redu- 
 ced to a system. 
 
 Such is the arriero of Mexico, and such he will con- 
 tinue to be until the mountains of his country are cut 
 down, and the steep, craggy, and difficult paths are turn- 
 ed into beaten and open thoroughfares. He looks to 
 the interest of those who employ him with scrupulous 
 care ; takes every precaution to guard the goods in- 
 trusted to his charge from being either stolen or dam- 
 aged. He has a nod and a sly wink for every pretty 
 girl he meets in his many miles of travel, can carol ev- 
 ery rude madrigal known in the land, loves his honour 
 and his religion, hates the ladrones and leperos, and de- 
 spises lying and deceit. Would that all the inhabitants 
 of Mexico were arrieros, or as honest as are these ro- 
 ving landsmen. 
 
OPINIONS OF SANTA ANNA. 
 
 173 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A Night at San Felipe. — Meeting with one of Mina’s Soldiers. — Santa Anna, 
 and the Estimation in which he is held by his Countrymen. — San Juan de 
 los Llanos. — Sickness and Suffering. — Tedious Mountain March. — Pic- 
 turesque Scenery. — Arparos ; its romantic Situation. — Arrival at Silao. — 
 An American Physician.— Kindness of an English Gentleman and his 
 Lady. — Approach to Guanajuato.— Singular Entry. — Laughable Scenes. — 
 Arrival within the City. — Visits from the Foreigners. — Fitzgerald and 
 others taken to the Hospital.. — Liberal Contributions. — Opportunity to 
 escape. — Departure from Guanajuato. — Singular Location of the City. — 
 La Puerta. — Arrival at Salamanca. — System of Recruiting Volunteers. — 
 Celaya. — Generous Conduct of Cortazar. — Sunday at Celaya. — The Cathe- 
 dral.— Singular Customs of the Indians.— Cock-fighting at the Theatre. — 
 “ El Campanero de San Pablo.” — A Spanish Play. — Lady Smokers. — De- 
 parture from Celaya. — Fertility of the Baxio. — Calera. — An early Morn- 
 ing March. — Distant View of Queretaro. — Arrival within the City. — Sin- 
 gular Currency and amusing Anecdote. — Soap a legal Tender. — A Stroll 
 through Queretaro. — American Prisoners. — Spanish System of Shaving. 
 — Texans Stoned in the Market-place. — A Mexican Restaurat. — Adven- 
 ture with a Friar. — Return to our Quarters. 
 
 The night following our departure from El Jaral we 
 passed at San Felipe, the second town taken by Hidal- 
 go in the early part of the Mexican Revolution. At that 
 time it was said to contain sixteen thousand inhabitants ; 
 there are not half that number now, unless I am much 
 deceived. At this place several of our party were 
 treated with much attention by a Mexican gentleman, 
 who had been one of Mina’s soldiers. Of Santa Anna, 
 and his ambitious projects, he was far from speaking in 
 complimentary terms ; but this was the case among all 
 classes. From the best-bred gentleman down to the 
 lowest lepero, all were loud in their curses of the des- 
 pot and his schemes, and the question was often asked 
 P 2 
 
174 
 
 A PICTURESQUE RANCHO. 
 
 our men why they did not kill him when he was in their 
 power ! 
 
 On our next day’s journey we passed a small rancho 
 known as La Lorn, and at night reached the once 
 wealthy but now insignificant hacienda of San Juan de 
 los Llanos, or St. John of the Plains. By this time, al- 
 though all of us had set out from San Luis in good 
 health, several of our party were down with the small- 
 pox, and suffering incredibly from being compelled to 
 travel, and from want of proper medicines. There was 
 no way of leaving them behind, however, and the poor 
 fellows were carried along in the wagons furnished at 
 Zacatecas, receiving such attentions as it was in the 
 power of their companions to bestow. 
 
 After an exceedingly long and tiresome mountain 
 march, through deep and ragged barrancas and up 
 steep and rugged precipices, such of us as were on 
 foot or had animals reached the little mountain rancho 
 of Arparos late on the afternoon of the 17th of 
 January. The wagons were taken by some round- 
 about and more level road, and did not join us until late 
 at night ; yet even they had been several times upset, 
 and were much shattered by the roughness of the jour- 
 ney. The little adobe church at this rancho was clear- 
 ed of its holy furniture to accommodate some of our 
 party, while three or four of us hired a room of one of 
 the villagers in which to pass the night. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the grandeur and picturesque 
 beauty of the site which has been chosen for the little 
 rancho of Arparos. The road to it, in both directions, 
 leads through rugged mountain gorges and across swift- 
 running streams — now climbing steep acclivities, and 
 then descending into deep and secluded barrancas — 
 dark and dreary except when the sun is at his meridian. 
 
A BENEVOLENT LADY. 
 
 175 
 
 The prickly pear, or nopal, here attains much perfec- 
 tion, but other than this there is scarcely a blade of ve- 
 getation save here and there a small patch of corn, 
 found in some little valley where the wash from the 
 surrounding mountains has formed a soil. 
 
 The next day we reached Silao, a town containing 
 some four or five thousand inhabitants, and situated in a 
 fertile plain. Here we met an American physician, and 
 an English gentleman to whose house a small party of 
 us were invited to supper. He was a resident of Gua- 
 najuato, and a very influential man in that city ; but 
 during a portion of the year he made Silao his residence 
 on account of the superior salubrity of its climate. We 
 found his wife, who was an English lady, a kind-heart- 
 ed, interesting woman, disposed to render every atten- 
 tion to such of our party as were ill with the small-pox, 
 and there were now some twelve or fifteen on the list. 
 She sent them a large quantity of hot tea and such 
 other necessaries as she thought they would stand most 
 in need of, while her husband said that he would leave 
 for Guanajuato early the next morning, and use all his 
 influence with the authorities to induce them to allow 
 such as were really unable to travel permission to re- 
 main at the hospital in that city. 
 
 By making an early start on the morning of the 19th, 
 we were enabled to reach Guanajuato before the mid- 
 dle of the day. Our approach and entry into that city 
 were characterized by one of the most laughable exhi- 
 bitions that occurred on the whole route from San Mi- 
 guel to Mexico. It is almost impossible so to describe the 
 scene as to give it full effect, but I shall make the attempt. 
 
 When within some five miles of Guanajuato numer- 
 ous market-men were encountered, driving before them 
 the donkeys that had borne their produce to the city. 
 
A LUDICROUS ADVENTURE. 
 
 As many of our men were foot-sore from the tedious 
 mountain march of the previous day, the officer who 
 had charge of us immediately pressed the animals into 
 service, and told the Texans to mount them. It was 
 in vain the owners of the animals expostulated, and told 
 our captain that they were in haste to return to their 
 homes — he not only reiterated his order for our men to 
 seize the unsuspecting donkeys by the ears and mount 
 them at once, but commanded their owners to assist in 
 driving them. As we gradually approached the city 
 the number of asses increased, and before we entered 
 the suburbs every Texan was perched upon the back 
 of a donkey, without saddle or bridle, and of such low 
 stature were many of the animals, that their riders were 
 fairly compelled to draw up their legs to keep their feet 
 from dragging on the ground. 
 
 The whole scene was ludicrously rich, and afforded 
 infinite amusement not only to the guard of dragoons 
 who accompanied us, and the throngs of men and 
 women gathered upon either side of the streets, but to 
 the Texans themselves. In fact, all appeared to enjoy 
 the comical appearance of our procession, save the don- 
 keys and their unfortunate owners. 
 
 Shouts of every description rent the air as we thus 
 journeyed along. “ Here comes the Texas heavy light 
 cavalry,” some fellow would cry aloud, and the next 
 moment, perhaps, he would measure his length upon 
 the ground by one of those peculiar pitches and kicks 
 understood and practised only by animals of the donkey 
 race. At every step some one of the animals would 
 take it into his head to run away — his next neighbour, 
 very likely, would at the same time make up his mind 
 not to move at all ; an obstinate whim which it is ex- 
 tremely difficult to beat out of a jackass. Shouts of 
 
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GUANAJUATO. 
 
 177 
 
 laughter from the Texans would ensue as some one of 
 the animals indulged in an extra freak of eccentricity, 
 and mixed with the laughter the muttered curses and 
 deep imprecations of the owners could be distinctly 
 heard. They were anxious to be relieved as soon as 
 possible from this extra duty which had been imposed 
 upon them, and accordingly pressed their overburdened 
 animals along by those incentives a Mexican know r s so 
 well how to use. “ Hip-ah ! burro !”* resounded on 
 every side, accompanied by blows and kicks — “Tchew, 
 tchew, tchew,” an unmeaning sound, but used as an en- 
 couragement for the animals to move faster, was freely 
 administered at every step. 
 
 When once within the city, among its dark and nar- 
 row streets, the services of the donkeys were dispensed 
 with, and their unfortunate owners set off for their 
 homes in no good-humour. We were then taken com- 
 pletely through Guanajuato, and finally lodged at the 
 soldiers’ barracks — clean and airy quarters. My de- 
 scription of our singular entry into one of the proudest 
 and richest cities of Mexico falls far short of the real 
 scene itself — it is utterly impossible to draw a correct 
 picture of a performance which not one of those who 
 took a part in it, either as spectator or actor, can ever 
 forget. 
 
 We had scarcely reached our quarters before we 
 were visited by numerous foreigners — English, Irish, 
 and American — who at once inquired into the wants of 
 the prisoners, and promised to render every assistance. 
 As was the case at San Luis Potosi, Colonel Cooke’s 
 party not having passed through the place, the foreign 
 residents had not been called upon to contribute and 
 render assistance to their countrymen in distress. 
 
 * Burro — the Spanish name for a jackass. 
 
178 
 
 NUMBER OF SICK INCREASING. 
 
 Accompanied by the Mexican physicians attached to 
 the hospital, several of the foreign medical men exam- 
 ined such of our party as had the small-pox or other 
 diseases, and permission was granted for eighteen of 
 them to be taken immediately to the hospital, there to 
 remain until their recovery, or till death should release 
 them from their sufferings. 
 
 Among those more severely affected with the loath- 
 some malady, now rapidly spreading among us, were 
 Captain Caldwell and poor Fitzgerald. The latter was 
 delirious when we placed him in the litter which bore 
 him to the hospital, and strong fears were entertained 
 that he would sink under the disease ; but he recover- 
 ed, and was shortly afterward liberated through the 
 exertions of the British minister ; he has since been re- 
 taken by the Mexicans, and shot while heroically assist- 
 ing his comrades to escape. Captain Caldwell also re- 
 covered from the small-pox, and was released by Santa 
 Anna with the rest of the Texan prisoners, but, as I 
 have before mentioned, has since died in Texas. Of 
 the eighteen left at Guanajuato, five died and were bu- 
 ried at the place — the remainder were sent to Mexico 
 on their recovery, and confined with their comrades at 
 the Convent of Santiago. They described their treat- 
 ment as extremely kind and attentive while in the hos- 
 pital, and on their arrival at Mexico they were all well 
 dressed. 
 
 An attempt was made by our foreign friends to in- 
 duce the commandante to allow us to remain at Guana- 
 juato one day ; but as all the sick had been taken care 
 of, and the governor was not in the city, he did not feel 
 at liberty to grant the request. Finding themselves 
 unable to delay our departure, our friends redoubled 
 their exertions in obtaining contributions, and the next 
 
WELCOME TIDINGS. 
 
 179 
 
 morning a large sum of money and a generous supply 
 of clothing were distributed among our men. At no 
 place on the route did the foreigners contribute with 
 greater liberality to the relief of the unfortunate Texans 
 than at Guanajuato, and among those most indefatiga- 
 ble in obtaining these necessaries was the gentleman at 
 whose house we had taken supper at Silao. 
 
 It was at Guanajuato that I first heard of the arrival, 
 at the city of Mexico, of one of my associates in busi- 
 ness, although the gentleman who gave me the informa- 
 tion could not learn his name. Before I received this 
 news I had half made up my mind to accept an offer 
 made me to escape, an American gentleman I had met 
 on the road suggesting a feasible plan, and proffering 
 me every assistance. I was to be provided with a 
 horse, a servant who spoke English, and a passport, and 
 could take either the route to Tampico, or to Mazatlan, 
 on the Pacific, the escape to be made at some town or 
 rancho between Guanajuato and Queretaro. The gen- 
 tleman appeared, according to promise, at the place 
 appointed ; but by this time I had heard of the arrival 
 of my associate, and in addition to this I was allowed 
 my parole by the officer then in charge of the prisoners. 
 To run away under these circumstances would have 
 involved an honourable officer in difficulty, and brought 
 more rigorous treatment and closer confinement upon 
 my companions ; and taking these circumstances into 
 consideration, I gave up all thoughts of escaping. Had 
 I anticipated the sickness and loathsome imprisonment 
 yet in store for me, I should not have visited the city of 
 Mexico, and should have saved the United States and 
 Mexican governments reams of correspondence in re- 
 lation to my humble self and case. 
 
 About ten o’clock on the morning of the 20th of Jan- 
 
180 DEPARTURE FROM GUANAJUATO 
 
 uary we took our departure from Guanajuato, out route 
 conducting us through the same streets by which we 
 had entered — I am not certain that there is any other 
 outlet to the place. The city is built in a deep but nar- 
 row ravine, some two miles in length, while its greatest 
 width is perhaps not more than three or four hundred 
 yards. On either side high and precipitous mountains 
 rise — so steep that the very goats can hardly find a 
 road up their sides. There are but two or three main 
 streets ; but these run the whole length of the city, are 
 very narrow, and the houses extremely high, so that a 
 large population is congregated in the deep and dark 
 barranca. A more singular site for a city probably 
 does not exist in the wide world, and nothing induced 
 the early settlers to select it but the fact that the sur- 
 rounding mines were among the richest and most pro- 
 ductive in the country. 
 
 After crossing, some twenty times, a little stream of 
 water which runs through the principal street leading 
 into the city, and after passing the suburbs, we began 
 the ascent of the mountains at the only point where a 
 road was practicable. A single turn shut the city we 
 had just left completely from the sight, and I doubt 
 whether there is more than one spot within half a mile 
 from which even the highest of its numerous domes 
 can be seen, so completely is Guanajuato hidden from 
 the world. 
 
 At night we halted at La Puerta, where we slept, and 
 the next afternoon we reached the city of Salamanca. 
 This is a neat and tolerably well-built place, containing 
 several colleges, besides convents and churches. As 
 we were leaving it the next morning, I had an opportu- 
 nity of seeing a volunteer for the army caught. The 
 man’s crime I did not learn, nor in fact could I ascertain 
 
AN AFFLICTED MOTHER. 
 
 181 
 
 that he had committed any : be this as it may, he was 
 seized and tied in front of the meson where we had 
 passed the night, and dragged onward by two dragoons 
 detailed for the special purpose of preventing his escape. 
 The fellow had a mother, who, with tears and prayers, 
 begged the commander of the dragoons to release her 
 son. The officer turned a deaf ear to her entreaties, 
 pushed her from him, and strode onward. With frantic 
 shrieks the woman sprang after him, fell at his feet, and 
 while clinging with convulsive grasp to his knees, 
 besought him, in accents most piteous, to allow her son 
 to remain with her. Again the officer threw the wom- 
 an from him, and jumping upon his horse, was soon out 
 of hearing. The last I saw of the mother she was fly- 
 ing about from one person to another, wringing her 
 hands in the very phrensy of despair, and beseeching 
 all to intercede in behalf of her boy. This in a repub- 
 lic which boasts of its freedom, and cannot issue the 
 most trifling despatch without tacking “ God and liber- 
 ty” to some part of it ! 
 
 In the afternoon of the 22d we reached Celaya, a 
 neat and busy, but small city. The residence of General 
 Cortazar, the gentlemanly and liberal governor of the 
 State of Guanajuato, is at this place. From him and 
 his officers, not only our party but that of Colonel 
 Cooke, invariably received the best treatment ; and 
 even the common soldiers of our guard, while within 
 the limits of Guanajuato, appeared to partake of the 
 better qualities of the generous commandante and his 
 officers. 
 
 Cortazar had us all quartered in a clean and airy 
 convent, gave us the full liberty of the city on parole, and 
 sent word that we might remain thirty-six hours in the 
 place to rest and recruit ourselves. This favour was 
 
 Vol. II.— Q 
 
182 
 
 VISIT TO A COCK-PIT. 
 
 the more agreeable to us, as the following day was 
 Sunday, and we thus had an opportunity of seeing the 
 religious observances and public amusements by which 
 this day is celebrated in a Mexican city. 
 
 At an early hour on Sunday morning a small party 
 of us left the convent. Our first stopping-place was at 
 a meson near the market square, where we partook of 
 as good a breakfast as the tavern afforded. Our next 
 movement was to the principal cathedral of Celaya, to 
 observe the religious ceremonies of the morning. A 
 party of Indians were in attendance, in addition to the 
 regular worshippers, and the strange mingling of some 
 of their own customs with the rites of the established 
 Catholic Church, formed a picture of striking singular- 
 ity. The early Spanish missionaries were never able 
 entirely to eradicate the superstitious ceremonies of the 
 original inhabitants, but by allowing them to ingraft 
 some of their own rites upon Catholicism, they partially 
 brought them over to their faith. This state of things 
 still continues, and the religion of a large portion of the 
 mixed classes is to this day but a blending of whimsi- 
 cal and grotesque ceremonies with the solemn and im- 
 posing observances which appertain to the religion of 
 the Romish Church. 
 
 After twelve o’clock the innumerable liquor-shops of 
 the city were thrown open, and in the afternoon cock- 
 fighting commenced at the theatre. The pit seats were 
 taken out for the purpose, and on visiting it we found a 
 large assembly of gamblers, loafers, gentlemen, soldiers, 
 and priests assembled to enjoy the sport. The Mexi- 
 cans of all classes are passionately fond of it, and will 
 frequently stake their all upon the result of a single fight. 
 
 The amusements of the cockpit over, the seats were 
 replaced, and every preparation made for the produc- 
 
A SPANISH PLAY. 
 
 183 
 
 tion of “ El Campanero de San Pablo ” — the Bell-Ringer 
 of St. Paul’s — by a Spanish company of actors then 
 playing at Celaya. This performance we also attended, 
 and found the house well filled with many of the more 
 fashionable families of the place, and among them that 
 of General Cortazar. Ladies and all, as is the custom 
 in a Mexican theatre, kept up an incessant smoking be- 
 tween the acts, and the rising of the curtain even was 
 no signal for them to throw away their cigarritos. The 
 drama was a translation from the French, but is found- 
 ed on a story of the reign of Charles I. of England, and 
 is extremely popular in Mexico. The actors were all 
 perfect in their parts, but the play dragged heavily 
 enough along to those who but imperfectly understood 
 the language, and after seeing three acts of it, and inha 
 ling cigar and candle smoke until we were half suffoca- 
 ted, we returned to our quarters. Thus did we spend 
 our Sunday at Celaya. 
 
 On the next morning we took our departure from this 
 hospitable town. As we were about starting, it was 
 ascertained that young Curtis Caldwell had broken out 
 with the small-pox.* He was not more than fourteen 
 years old, but an extremely intelligent and active lad 
 for his age, and Cortazar had him taken to his own 
 house and treated with every possible attention. On 
 his recovery he was sent to his father at Guanajuato, 
 and finally returned to Texas with him. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 24th we reached a miserable 
 rancho called Calera. During the palmy days of Gua- 
 najuato, when the mines of that district yielded their rich- 
 est treasures and employed immense numbers of men, 
 the Baxio, or fertile valley in which Salamanca, Celaya, 
 
 * His father, it will be remembered, had been left at Guanajuato with the 
 same disease. 
 
184 
 
 DEFENCE AGAINST THIEVES. 
 
 and innumerable rich haciendas are situated, found a 
 ready market for the corn and wheat grown upon its 
 surface ; but now that the demand has been in a great 
 measure cut off, the estates are gradually sinking in value 
 and going out of cultivation. 
 
 In one part of this valley — I think between Queretaro 
 and San Juan del Rio — the traveller passes through an 
 immense corn-field, or rather a succession of corn- 
 fields, miles in extent, the produce of which supplies 
 the neighbouring cities. During a march of nearly two 
 days nothing could be seen on any side but stacks of 
 Indian corn, the husks still on, and each stack surmount- 
 ed with a rude wooden cross. The owners of the 
 grain had taken the latter precaution, so it was told us, 
 to prevent the ladrones from preying upon their proper- 
 ty ; for it is said that nothing can induce the most hard- 
 ened thief, in that country of petty pilferers, to touch 
 aught which is thus guarded. Whether this is true or 
 false is a point upon which I do not intend to decide ; 
 if true, I can say that it is much the cheapest and safest 
 method of preventing theft that could be devised in Mex- 
 ico, and I would prefer having my property under the 
 guardianship and protection of one wooden cross than of 
 twenty armed men. Robert Macaire would have starv- 
 ed to death had his lot fallen among Mexican ladrones. 
 and the noted “ Pony Club” of Georgia might have found 
 valuable members by sending to Mexico.* 
 
 * The candidate for admission into this “ Club” was obliged to pass through 
 the following ordeal successfully before he could receive his diploma, or cer- 
 tificate of membership. A committee of passed members conducted the tyro 
 to a secluded place in the woods, placed a hat upon a stump or rock in a con- 
 spicuous position, and then arranged themselves around it in such situations 
 that all could plainly see the hat. If the candidate was successful in stealing 
 it, while all were watching, he was at once admitted into full communion 
 and fellowship ; if not, he was dismissed with advice to practise still farther 
 his “ slight-of-hand” tricks, and by untiring industry endeavour better to qual- 
 
A SPLENDID SUNRISE. 
 
 185 
 
 Finding that he could procure no food for the prison- 
 ers at Calera, the officer who had charge of us deter- 
 mined upon an early start in the morning, with the in- 
 tention of reaching Queretaro by breakfast-time. We 
 were all in motion by two o’clock ; and so raw and cold 
 was the early morning air, that such of us as were 
 mounted dashed onward at a brisk gallop, with the hope 
 of thus obtaining warmth and a circulation of the blood. 
 The days, at this time, were delightfully warm and 
 pleasant, but the extreme height of the table-lands made 
 the nights raw and chilly. To show how negligent 
 were the dragoons who accompanied us as a guard, I 
 may add that the little party with whom I made the 
 morning ride did not see one of them from the time 
 we set off until we had nearly reached the city gates. 
 
 We were but a short league from Queretaro when 
 the sun rose — within sight of a city whose numerous 
 public buildings and works, whose lofty and imposing 
 domes, towers, and steeples, present to the view of the 
 traveller, enter it from what quarter he may, a sight than 
 which one more grand and magnificent can hardly be 
 imagined. The city is in part encircled by lofty mount- 
 ains, and as the rising sun first kissed their towering 
 summits, the gray and sombre-shadowed town, lying far 
 beneath them, was buried in profound repose. Anon, 
 as the sun’s rays came flashing from the mountain tops 
 and lit up the higher domes of the place, the scene as- 
 sumed an appearance of light and life. Soon the sun 
 itself rose from behind those mountain barriers, and the 
 whole city was at once aroused by its animating pres- 
 
 ify himself for the high station to which he aspired. So adroit is the veriest 
 dunce among the Mexican thieves, that he could steal the hat from the very 
 head of a sharp-sighted man without being detected, even if the latter had 
 friends on the look-out to prevent it. 
 
 Q 2 
 
186 
 
 QUERETARO. 
 
 ence. To forget that morning’s dawn and its effect 
 upon Queretaro were impossible. Now a blushing ray 
 would linger and play upon the loftiest peaks of the sur- 
 rounding mountains ; the next moment it would flash 
 across the plain, dispel the deep shadows from the 
 mountain sides, and gild some towering dome with a 
 flood of light. To watch the bright beams reflected 
 from tower to tower and from dome to dome — to see 
 the dark shadows disappearing, as if chased from their 
 retreats by the vivid flashes — and then to behold the 
 entire city lit up as by enchantment — all combined to 
 form a spectacle of almost inconceivable grandeur. The 
 morning was now bright, beautiful, and balmy, and the 
 stillness which surrounded us was only broken by the 
 distant deep-toned bells calling the dwellers to mass, 
 and that busy but undefinable hum which betokens the 
 awakening of a great city to the labour of another day. 
 
 As the last straggling loiterers of our party came up, 
 we were formed in regular order, and then marched 
 through the city. Quarters had been procured for us 
 at an old convent on the side of the city opposite to that 
 by which we entered — a vile, dismal hole at the best — 
 but our commandante said that no other could be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 A circumstance of a very amusing nature occurred 
 while the officer of our guard was absent at the house 
 of the commandante, for the purpose of obtaining per- 
 mission for us to roam about the city on parole. We 
 had scarcely been ten minutes in the convent when we 
 were visited by the usual crowd of venders of oranges 
 and other fruits, women with tortillas, frijoles, and gui- 
 sado, all anxious to dispose of their little stock in trade. 
 Mr. Falconer picked out some half dozen oranges and 
 sweet limes from the basket of a fruit-girl, and in pay- 
 
A CIRCULATING MEDIUM. 
 
 187 
 
 ment handed her a dollar. There was not small coin 
 enough among them all to change the dollar, and Fal- 
 coner sent it out by a corporal, telling him to get it 
 changed. The fellow shortly returned with sixty-four 
 cakes of soap, tied up in a handkerchief. Falconer told 
 the corporal he wanted change, not soap. The corpo- 
 ral replied that it was the currency of the place — legal 
 currency — and that there was no other. Such proved 
 to be the case ; and however singular it may appear, 
 soap is really a lawful tender in the payment of all 
 debts, and our companion was compelled to keep this 
 singular substitute in the way of change for his dollar. 
 He could not very well pocket it, as there was nearly 
 a peck in bulk. 
 
 The cakes are about the size of the common Windsor 
 shaving-soap, and each is worth one cent and a half — 
 in fact, a fraction more, as eight of them pass for twelve 
 and a half cents, or sixteen for a quarter of a dollar. 
 Each cake is stamped with the name of the town where 
 it is issued, and also with the name of the person who 
 is authorized by law to manufacture it as a circulating 
 medium ; yet Celaya soap — for it also circulates in that 
 city — will not pass at Queretaro. The reason I can- 
 not divine, as the size and intrinsic value appear to be 
 the same. The municipal authorities of either town 
 appear to have made no provision for equalizing the 
 exchanges between the two places, and there are no 
 brokers’ offices for the buying and selling of uncurrent 
 soap in Mexico. 
 
 Many of the cakes in circulation were partially worn, 
 and showed evidence indisputable of an acquaintance 
 with the wash-tub ; but all were current so long as the 
 stamp was visible. Frequently I remarked that our 
 men would use one of these singular bits of currency in 
 
188 
 
 SPANISH MODE OP SHAVING. 
 
 washing their hands and faces, and then pass it off for 
 a plate of frijoles or an orange. Much amusement, too, 
 did we have among ourselves while in the district where 
 it passes as a legal tender, and “ Are you out of soap ?” 
 and “ How are you off for soap ?” were expressions 
 continually passing from mouth to mouth. The same 
 cant phrase is common enough in the United States, 
 and has been for years ; but how it originated is a mat- 
 ter of which I am most profoundly ignorant. At all 
 events, it is applicable enough in some parts of Mexico. 
 
 In the afternoon we received permission to roam 
 through the city without a guard. As we passed a 
 prison, we were hailed from its gloomy, grated windows 
 by a voice in oUr own language. There were two 
 Americans — natives of Philadelphia, I believe — in the 
 prison, who had been employed to work a woollen 
 or cotton factory near Queretaro at a stipulated sum. 
 Their employer had in some way broken his faith, and 
 they had left him ; but his power was superior, and he 
 had thrown them into prison to gratify a mean spirit 
 of revenge. We told them that we, too, were prison- 
 ers, unable to afford them assistance, and then left them 
 with wishes for their speedy release. 
 
 We next strolled through the principal streets, enter- 
 ing some of the stores, taverns, cigar, and barber shops. 
 In one of the latter I noticed two men busily employed 
 in grinding and sharpening gaffs for fighting-cocks, 
 showing that this amusement is common among the 
 denizens of Queretaro. One man was shaving a cus- 
 tomer, but instead of lathering him after the French or 
 English fashion, he placed a large composition or silver 
 basin, having a hollow in one side to fit the neck, di- 
 rectly under the chin of the customer, and then soaped 
 his face with his hands. It is a vile Spanish custom, 
 
THE PRISONERS STONED. 
 
 189 
 
 this ; but, like thousands of others of that anti-go-ahead 
 race, is persisted in. I thought of Don Quixotte and 
 Mambrino’s helmet the moment I set eyes upon one of 
 these basins. 
 
 In our stroll we passed the walls of ant immense con- 
 vent or nunnery, said to be a large village of itself. We 
 could only see the tops of the buildings above the walls, 
 for no one is allowed to pass the gates. We entered 
 a large dry and fancy goods store, having for a sign 
 “ Tienda de los Palomos,” or Store of the Doves. Why 
 the Mexicans name their shops and stores after cats, 
 dogs, doves, and other birds and beasts, is a mystery 
 to me. Their fondas and mesones all have religious 
 names, or nearly all. It was quite common for us to 
 stop at the tavern of the Holy Ghost, or Hotel of the 
 True Cross, and others, a translation of which would 
 appear irreverent and almost blasphemous to my coun- 
 trymen. 
 
 Just as dark was setting in, and while three of us 
 were crossing the market-place in the direction of a 
 little Mexican restaurat, several stones were thrown at 
 us from the dense throng at that hour congregated in 
 the square. Fortunately not one of the missiles hit us, 
 although they whizzed by close to our heads. Who 
 the authors of this outrage were we did not ascertain ; 
 but they were probably some of the very lowest class, 
 who only insulted us in this way to show their pitiful 
 spite at our nation and religion. It was almost the only 
 direct insult offered us south of El Paso, for generally 
 the lower orders looked upon us rather as objects of 
 pity than of hatred or revenge. We immediately en- 
 tered the restaurat, after the outrage had been commit- 
 ted, and called for a supper, the perpetrators not follow- 
 ing or molesting us farther. 
 
190 
 
 A MENDICANT FRIAR. 
 
 While we were waiting for our meal, a monk or friar, 
 of some poor and abstemious order, entered the apart- 
 ment with a noiseless step. Tied about him with a 
 piece of rope was a coarse blanket or gown, of a gray- 
 ish yellow colour ; his head was bare, the top of it being 
 close shaven ; and he may have been barefooted, for I 
 do not recollect seeing either boot, shoe, or sandal upon 
 his feet. In his hand he had a small tin box, resem- 
 bling, in many respects, a lantern. At all events, I took 
 it for a lantern ; for as the room was but dimly lighted, 
 and as he silently held the box close to my face, I thought 
 he was endeavouring to scrutinize my countenance with 
 the hope of recognising me by some mysterious and 
 hidden light it might contain. A galopina, or kitchen 
 girl, standing by, soon explained the business of the holy 
 brother by dropping a quartillo into the box through a 
 hole in the top, which I had not previously seen. Now 
 the mystery was solved — the friar was holding the box 
 in my face for alms. Fearing that I might have insult- 
 ed him by rudely, although innocently, staring in his 
 face, I resolved upon purchasing forgiveness to such 
 extent as a quarter of a dollar would obtain, and ac- 
 cordingly dropped a coin of that value into the box. 
 The amount purchased my pardon, if he thought I owed 
 him one ; for, making a low bow, he gave me his bene- 
 dicte, and then, with dignified meekness, left the room. 
 
 Weary from our long walk, and the early morning 
 ride, we remained no longer than to obtain our supper, 
 and then retired to our quarters at the old convent, 
 meeting with neither obstruction nor insult on the way. 
 
A GREAT AQUEDUCT. 
 
 191 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure from Queretaro.— A stupendous Aqueduct, — View of Queretaro 
 from a Mountain Summit. — Number and Magnificence of its Churches. — 
 Meeting with Englishmen. — News that Colonel Cooke's Party were in 
 Chains. — The Diligence.— Letter from Mr. Lumsden. — Liberation of Frank 
 Combs— Arrival at San Juan del Kio. — Escape of two of our Companions. 
 — They are retaken and punished. — The Indian Village of Tula. — Strange 
 Celebration— Queer Characters.— Crackers and Sky-rocket*— Approach 
 to the City of Mexico.— Speculations as to our future Lot.— Mr. Navarro 
 separated from his Companions. — Route altered. — “ Quien Sabe ?” — 
 Kindness of the Indian Women. — Arrival at the old Palace of San Cristo- 
 bal. — The Texans locked within its gloomy Walls. — Visited by Mr. 
 Lumsden and other Americans.— A joyful Meeting. — Prospects of Release 
 — Description of San Cristobal. — Release of Falconer and Van Ness. — 
 Visited by Members of the United States Legation.— Difference in the 
 Policy of the United States and English Governments. — Cause of Mr. 
 Falconer’s Release. — Another Visit from the Americans. — File of Ameri- 
 can Papers. — A Letter from Chihuahua, and its Effects. — Gloomy Presen- 
 timents. — Our Men supplied with Clothing and Blankets. — Celebration in 
 Honour of Santa Anna’s Leg. — Supplies cut off. — Sufferings on the In- 
 crease. — Nothing to Eat.- — Resorts of the Texans to obtain Food. — Singu- 
 lar Tribunals, with the Results. — A Humorous Witness. — Wild Revel in 
 San Cristobal. 
 
 Immediately on leaving Queretaro, our road took us 
 directly under the immense aqueduct which supplies the 
 city with water. This aqueduct is a stupendous work, 
 having been built many years since, by the Spaniards, 
 when money was abundant and Indian labour easy to 
 command. Pure water is carried by this means across 
 a wide valley, the head spring being on a mountain side 
 at a distance of some six or eight miles. The arches 
 which support the stupendous fabric are of stone, lofty 
 yet light, and of graceful proportions. Far as the eye 
 can reach, the aqueduct is seen stretching across the 
 valley ; now rising high above the surface of the ground 
 
192 
 
 A WELCOME LETTER. 
 
 as some low place is crossed, and again all but touching 
 the higher undulations. At the point where we passed 
 under one of the arches, and we were on the direct road 
 to the city of Mexico, the water must have been forty or 
 fifty feet above us — perhaps more. 
 
 After proceeding but a few miles, we commenced the 
 ascent of a steep and lofty chain of mountains. Once 
 at their summit, the view of Queretaro, and the beauti- 
 ful valley in which it lies, is one of the finest and most 
 lovely in all Mexico. The number of inhabitants in 
 the city we had just left does not probably exceed fifty 
 thousand, but as is the case in every large town of the 
 country, there are churches enough to supply the spir- 
 itual wants of six times that number in the United States. 
 These churches, too, are built upon a scale, both in size 
 and magnificence, to which we are perfect strangers, 
 and give an appearance of splendour to their cities 
 which without them would sink into comparative insig- 
 nificance. 
 
 While stopping for a short time to rest, during the 
 middle of the day, the diligence drove up on its way 
 from the city of Mexico to Guanajuato. Among the 
 passengers were two or three Englishmen, who inform- 
 ed us that in consequence of the escape of two of the 
 men attached to Colonel Cooke’s party, they had all been 
 placed in irons. As to what disposition Santa Anna 
 would finally make of them, they could give us nothing 
 but mere speculation and idle rumour. 
 
 During our next day’s march we again met the stage 
 ascending a high, steep hill. The driver stopped to al- 
 low a passenger, an American gentleman, to alight for 
 a moment. He inquired for me, and gave me a letter 
 which I at once knew was from Mr. Lumsden. I have 
 already mentioned that I had heard, while at Guana- 
 
ESCAPE OF TWO PEISONEES. 
 
 193 
 
 juato, of one of my partners having reached the city of 
 Mexico for the purpose of obtaining my liberation as 
 speedily as possible, but my informant could not give 
 me his name, and until this moment I did not know 
 which of my associates was thus exerting himself in mv 
 behalf. 
 
 It will be readily supposed that I devoured the con- 
 tents of this letter with no little avidity. It was to the 
 effect that young Frank Combs had been liberated, and 
 that every exertion should be made to effect my speedy 
 release on reaching the city. I had all along supposed 
 that the Mexican government could not possibly detain 
 me twenty-four hours, after a statement of the manner 
 of my arrest and the circumstances attending it was 
 properly laid before those in authority by Mr. Ellis, our 
 then minister ; but in these anticipations I was destined 
 to be most grievously disappointed. Santa Anna had 
 no idea of letting me off so easily. 
 
 We arrived at the town of San Juan del Rio on the 
 evening of January 27th. This place is situated upon 
 a small river, and is the last town of any note before the 
 traveller reaches Mexico, although the remainder of the 
 road runs through a succession of villages. We met 
 two or three Americans at San Juan, who only corrob- 
 orated the story that our comrades in Mexico were 
 chained in couples and compelled to toil in the streets. 
 
 We had proceeded but a short distance the next day 
 before it was discovered, among ourselves, that two of 
 our men had made their escape — frightened to this step 
 probably by the stories of chains and servitude. We 
 said nothing about it at the time ; but when our guard 
 counted us at night the fact of their having escaped 
 became known. They were afterward retaken by a 
 small party sent out for the purpose, closely guarded to 
 
 Vol. II.— R 
 
194 
 
 AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 
 
 the city of Mexico, and there thrown into that vilest of 
 holes, the Acordada, as a punishment for their offence. 
 With but a single exception, this was the only unsuc- 
 cessful attempt made to escape while we were in the 
 country. 
 
 Early in the afternoon of the 1st of February we 
 reached the large Indian village of Tula, some ten or 
 twelve leagues from the city of Mexico. Scarcely had 
 we entered the quarters which had been provided for 
 us, at a commodious meson fronting immediately upon 
 the market-square, when a confused shouting was heard 
 in one of the streets leading into the plaza — a hubbub as 
 of boys following a military volunteer company in the 
 United States. Before we had time to reach a corner 
 of the square, whence the shouting appeared to come, 
 we encountered a medley and most singular procession 
 of ragged Indians. Preceding them was an eccentric 
 and oddly-attired personage, who appeared not only to 
 act as master of ceremonies, but took it upon himself to 
 sell invitations to join in the grand procession and a 
 mass which accompanied it. One of these invitations I 
 purchased. It was written on a page of foolscap pa- 
 per, the edges embellished with a wide and gaudy bor- 
 der, within which was a quotation in Spanish from the 
 twenty-sixth chapter of St. Matthew, thirty-ninth verse 
 — “ O my father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from 
 me.” Then followed a short sketch of the sufferings of 
 our Savior, of his great love for our fallen race, and of 
 his betrayal by Judas, while at the bottom of all was an 
 invitation in terms somewhat like the following: “Cap- 
 tain Don Lauriano Rodea and friends supplicate your 
 assistance on the 1st and 2d days of February,” and 
 the invitation which supplicated for this assistance was 
 sold for dos reales — twenty-five cents. 
 
A STRANGE PROCESSION. 
 
 105 
 
 In advance of the procession walked, or rather jump- 
 ed, two grotesque and diabolical figures. Of the sex, 
 colour, or condition of these actors in the crowd we 
 could form no opinion. Their faces, save the eyes and 
 teeth, were completely hidden by hideous masks of 
 black crape, while their bodies were covered with a 
 dingy, dirty black dress, fitting closely to the skin. 
 They did not walk, but crooked their knees, crouched 
 their bodies as close to the ground as possible, and then 
 hopped about after the manner of orang-outangs or 
 kangaroos. Whenever a door was passed, at which 
 stood some girl fairer and better clad than usual, one of 
 those grotesque figures would hop hurriedly after her, 
 grin hideously with his white teeth, and so frighten the 
 pursued that she would instantly seek shelter within the 
 house. These little innocent eccentricities on the part 
 of the gentleman in black, who performed the most 
 wonderful feats of agility while hopping from point to 
 point, were much relished by the crowd of boys and 
 idlers in attendance upon the procession. I was unable 
 to make out the characters sustained by these imps of 
 darkness; but whether devils or Judases, they certain- 
 ly well sustained their parts, in action and appearance. 
 
 Immediately in their l'ear followed some four or five 
 swarthy, dirty-faced, half-grown boys, dressed to rep- 
 resent angels, although they were like almost anything 
 else. Their once white robes were soiled and stained 
 until they had become a dirty yellow ; their wings were 
 unhinged, broken, discoloured, and draggling ; then- 
 thick, uncombed hair was filled with withered flowers, 
 or encircled with faded wreaths ; their gait was awk- 
 ward and swaggering, and, take them altogether, a sor- 
 rier set of angels were probably never let loose upon 
 earth. Had they been personating angels of darkness, 
 
196 
 
 ANXIOUS SPECULATIONS. 
 
 their aspect certainly would have been appropriate, to 
 say nothing of their acting. It was shrewdly suspect 
 ed that one or two of these good spirits had been par- 
 taking rather more freely of aguardiente than became 
 their calling. The tail of the procession was a rabble 
 of men, women, and children, the latter improving 
 every moment in letting oft' squibs and crackers among 
 the throng. 
 
 At the church, whither we followed the crowd, a 
 short service appeared to end the ceremonies, at least 
 for that day ; for after it was concluded, the good and 
 evil spirits broke up the order of march, and mingled 
 promiscuously with the swarthy populace. So far as 
 the sending up of rockets, and other exhibitions of the 
 like nature, went — for, without fireworks, a Mexican 
 celebration is incomplete — the strange mummeries were 
 kept up until a late hour. Such were the performances 
 at Tula on the 1st of February ; what they were on 
 the 2d I know not, although I had purchased an invita- 
 tion to take part in them. 
 
 With the supposition that we were that evening to be 
 marched into the great city of the Montezumas, we left 
 Tula at an early hour in the morning, We had now 
 been some three months and a half upon the road, jour- 
 neying through twenty degrees of latitude, and exposed 
 to hardships and privations innumerable. The fate of 
 all, whether good or evil, was soon to be decided. 
 Upon the flimsy pretext that one or two of their com- 
 panions had escaped, we knew that Santa Anna had 
 chained Colonel Cooke's men, and what was worse, had 
 sent them to work in the streets and ditches — a punish- 
 ment awarded only to criminals. Was our fate to be 
 the same ? The mind of each man was racked to an- 
 swer the question — speculation only ended in doubt and 
 uncertainty. 
 
QUIEN SABE? 
 
 197 
 
 We had supposed that we were to be marched di- 
 rectly into the city, which, by the middle of the day, 
 was only concealed by a mountain, when at a fork of 
 the road a halt was called. At this point Mr. Navarro 
 Was separated from us, for what reason no one could 
 divine. Under a strong guard he was conducted di- 
 rectly towards the city, while we were ordered to pur- 
 sue the left-hand fork of the road, which led we knew 
 not whither. We asked the dragoons, riding on either 
 side of us, as to our destination. Our only answer was 
 the eternal “ quien sabe ?” The Mexicans of the lower 
 classes, if unable to answer a question, instead of giving 
 a decided negative, invariably use this exclamation of 
 “ quien sabe ?” the literal meaning of which is “ who 
 knows V’ thus answering one question by asking an- 
 other. The expression is, however, equivalent to “/ 
 don’t know ” in English. 
 
 Our route now took us through a thickly-settled and 
 tolerably well-cultivated country, although squalid pov- 
 erty was to be seen on every side. The half-dressed, 
 swarthy Indian women, with their black but mild and 
 pensive eyes, came running from the adobe houses, 
 many of them in tears at our sad and wretched appear- 
 ance ; for by this time some twenty of our party were 
 down with the small-pox and other diseases. Murmur- 
 ing the universal exclamation, pobrecitos, they would 
 divide tomales,* tortillas, fruit — in short, their little all 
 — among men whom they must have supposed to be on 
 the road to execution. 
 
 About noon, and after passing a poor village with a 
 large and once magnificent church, the celebrated lake 
 of San Cristobal appeared in sight. A few hundred 
 
 * The tomale is made of meal, with a slight mixture of red pepper and 
 meat. It is then wrapped in the husks of com and boiled. 
 
 R 2 
 
198 
 
 VISIT FROM A FRIEND. 
 
 yards farther we were halted in front of the old Palace 
 of San Cristobal, once a celebrated summer residence 
 of the Spanish viceroys, but long since deserted, and 
 now fast crumbling to decay. We were ordered to 
 enter its wide doorway ; but why we were brought to 
 a place so desolate and gloomy no one could imagine. 
 The captain of our guard shrugged his shoulders when 
 interrogated as to the cause of this singular movement, 
 and after saying that he had been ordered to lock us 
 up in San Cristobal, briefly remarked that he had obey- 
 ed his orders. 
 
 The key had hardly turned in the lock when three 
 or four horsemen, evidently foreigners from their style 
 of dress and riding, were seen galloping towards us 
 across the plain. They pulled up in front of our miser- 
 able quarters, and on alighting I for the first time rec- 
 ognised Mr. Lumsden as of the party. After a short 
 conference with the captain of our guard, and leaving 
 their pistols and knives with the sentinels at the door, 
 for no traveller ever rides to the outskirts of the city 
 of Mexico without arms, the party were allowed to 
 enter. 
 
 That I was overjoyed at meeting with Mr. L. may 
 easily be imagined. His companions were American 
 gentlemen, residing in the city of Mexico. Learning 
 early in the morning that the prisoners were approach- 
 ing, they had ordered horses and immediately come 
 out to meet us. Finding that we had taken a different 
 road, on reaching the fork where Mr. Navarro had been 
 separated from us, they followed Upon our track until 
 they at length found us securely locked up within the 
 crumbling walls of the old Palace of San Cristobal. 
 
 As regarded my own prospects of release, my friends 
 gave me every encouragement. They appeared san- 
 
PALACE OF SAN CRISTOBAL. 
 
 199 
 
 guine that but a few days would elapse before I should 
 regain that liberty of which I had been so unjustly de- 
 prived for nearly five months ; and as the afternoon 
 was now far advanced, and the distance some twelve 
 miles to the city, they took their leave, after promising 
 to visit us again the next day. 
 
 The Palace of San Cristobal is pleasantly situated 
 upon a plain, and immediately in front are the lake of the 
 same name, and one of the canals to be met with in the 
 valley of Mexico. In the immediate vicinity there are 
 no buildings, save the miserable mud-hovels of a few 
 poor wretches, whose means of procuring an honest 
 livelihood must be precarious indeed. Directly in front 
 of the palace, the range of mountains which divides the 
 valley of Mexico from that of Puebla was seen in the 
 distance, while to the right one of the high and snow- 
 capped volcanoes, which give to the scenery of Mexico 
 its grandeur and sublimity, was seen rising far among 
 the clouds. In clear weather the mountain-top is plain- 
 ly visible, as is also the volcano upon its side ; but on 
 the day of our arrival the atmosphere betokened rain, 
 and its summit was covered with a fleecy veil of 
 clouds. 
 
 The building in which we were confined may have 
 been a very respectable palace in its day, but when we 
 were there it would hardly afford shelter for the bats 
 our presence frightened from their retreats. It is two 
 stories high, and built in the fashion of nearly all the 
 large houses of Mexico, in a quadrangular form, having 
 a patio or court-yard in the centre. The entrance was 
 through a large gateway. The ground floor of the 
 front part of the building contained four rooms, while 
 in the second story was a large dining hall, flanked by 
 a bedroom at one end and a small kitchen at the other. 
 
200 
 
 RELEASE OF VAN NESS AND FALCONER. 
 
 The only apartment in the house having any pretensions 
 to being habitable was the bedroom I have just men- 
 tioned, and this the captain of our guard appropriated 
 to his own use and that of his brother officers. The 
 dining hall was given to the Texan officers and mer- 
 chants, while the poor soldiers were compelled to take 
 up their quarters in the yard below, and in such of the 
 dilapidated rooms of the first story as were in any way 
 tenantable. The ravaging tooth of time had eaten 
 away almost the whole interior of the building, leaving 
 the outer walls alone untouched, and into these cold, 
 dreary, and miserable quarters were some hundred and 
 fifty of us thrust — into a hole which would not afford 
 even tolerable shelter for half that number of brute 
 beasts. Another thing which served to render our 
 quarters far more disagreeable was the fact that by this 
 time eighteen or twenty of our number had the small- 
 pox, and many of them were delirious. In this situation 
 we passed our first night at San Cristobal. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning a Mexican offi- 
 cer arrived from the city, bringing orders for the im- 
 mediate release of Van Ness and Falconer. The for- 
 mer was liberated entirely through the influence of the 
 Mexican Secretary of War and Marine, General Tor- 
 nel, who was well acquainted with the family of Van 
 Ness at Washington, and who had received from them 
 many favours ; but with Falconer the case was differ- 
 ent. He had been demanded, as I understood at the 
 time, by the British minister, and this demand had been 
 followed by his immediate release. Afterward, I heard 
 a different version of the story. 
 
 Our liberated friends had scarcely departed for the 
 city, in a coach provided for the purpose, when we 
 were visited by Brantz Mayer, Esq., United States sec- 
 
A CHARGE AGAINST THE U. S. GOVERNMENT. 201 
 
 retary of legation, and by the American consul at Mex- 
 ico, Mr. Black. Mr. M. inquired of me the circum- 
 stances of my arrest and all the information I could give 
 relevant to my case, as also to that of several others 
 who claimed American protection. I told him that I 
 had given Mr. Ellis, in several letters that I had writ- 
 ten while upon the road, full particulars in relation to 
 myself; that my case was much clearer than that of 
 Mr. Falconer, inasmuch as I had joined the expedition 
 with the previously-expressed intention of travelling 
 through Mexico, had provided myself with a passport 
 before leaving New-Orleans, and had entirely separated 
 myself from the expedition previous to the time of my 
 capture. In addition, I told Mr. Mayer, that while I 
 rejoiced with Mr. Falconer upon his happy deliverance 
 from the worst of bondage, I certainly thought it very 
 singular, and by no means flattering to that country 
 from which I claimed protection, that while a British 
 subject, who was in a greater degree implicated than 
 myself, was immediately liberated, I was held a prison- 
 er even for a moment.* He expressed every sympa- 
 
 * In comparison with the English government, and with not a little reluc- 
 tance do Isay it, that of the United States is notoriously slow in interfering 
 for its citizens when their personal liberty has been infringed upon — a state- 
 ment the truth of which will be at tested by every American who has travelled 
 in Mexico or other foreign countries. The British government looks upon 
 the liberty of the subject as paramount to all considerations — that of the Uni- 
 ted States will promptly enough interfere when a barret of flour is unjustly 
 taken from one of its citizens, but let him be deprived of his liberty, and the 
 matter requires, to use the words of the old diplomatist in one of Power’s 
 plays, “ a mighty deal of nice consideration.” So well is this policy of the 
 United States government understood in Mexico, that while an American is 
 allowed to remain for months in a loathsome prison, a single word from the 
 British minister will give immediate liberty to a subject of that government, 
 incarcerated for the same offence and in every way equally culpable. The 
 Americans, all over Mexico, openly speak of the insults they receive and the 
 little personal security they enjoy, and many of them even told me that were 
 they to enter the country again they would carry British protections in their 
 
202 
 
 BENEFITS OF A ROYAL BIRTH. 
 
 thy, said that Mr. Ellis would exert himself to the ut- 
 most to effect my release, and after offering me any as- 
 sistance I might require, left the prison. 
 
 In the afternoon I was again visited by Mr. Lums- 
 den, who was now accompanied by Lieutenant Blunt 
 of the United States navy, Mr. McRae, who had but 
 recently arrived with despatches from the United States, 
 and several other American gentlemen, residents of the 
 place. They brought us out a liberal supply of cigars, 
 fruit, and other refreshments, and what to me was of 
 far more value and interest, a number of American 
 newspapers. In the Picayune I read, for the first time, 
 a letter from Chihuahua, which directly implicated me 
 as connected with the expedition, it being incorrectly 
 
 pockets. An American citizen, who boasts of his birthright and of the great 
 liberty he enjoys at home, hears these mortifying admissions while abroad 
 with wounded pride ; but hear them he must, and, in addition, will feel and 
 know that they are founded in truth. Since the arrival in Mexico of our 
 present minister, General Thompson, and the powerful and decided papers 
 of Mr. Webster have appeared, the tone of the Mexican government may 
 have changed somewhat ; I allude above to the state of feeling existing while 
 I was in the country. 
 
 After my return to the United States I saw and read a letter from Judge 
 Ellis, to our then Secretary of State, Mr. Webster, in which the suddenness of 
 Mr. Falconer’s release is accounted for. By this document it would seem 
 that Mr. Pakenham, the British minister, immediately on the arrival of Mr. 
 F. at San Cristobal, called upon Santa Anna and presented him with a letter 
 from Queen Victoria announcing the birth of the Prince of Wales. His ex- 
 cellency, the Provisional President, as an act of courtesy usual on such oc- 
 casions, released Mr. Falconer the moment the British minister mentioned 
 that he was a prisoner. Now, this was all right enough ; but it is certainly 
 unfortunate for us poor Republicans that no such door is open for our re- 
 lease when confined under similar circumstances. A corresponding increase 
 10 the family of one of our presidential ladies might take place, although such 
 an event can hardly be looked for, and not a whit should we be gainers by it, 
 while any addition to that of the august sovereign of Great Britain is a “ walk- 
 ing paper” to her incarcerated subjects. We boast much of our freedom, 
 and the perfect equality we enjoy, both at home and abroad, as compared 
 with the people of other nations : surely, some provision should be made for 
 us in contingencies like the above. 
 
SANTA ANNA’S LEG. 
 
 203 
 
 stated that I was one of the avant courriers sent for- 
 ward by Colonel Cooke on approaching the settlements 
 of New Mexico. Knowing that the Mexican govern- 
 ment would eagerly seize upon any pretext to annoy 
 one for whom, from the general tone of the articles in 
 his paper in relation to Texan affairs, it could entertain 
 no friendly feelings, I at once declared my belief that 
 the publication of the letter would cause me months of 
 imprisonment. My friends thought differently, and be- 
 fore-leaving endeavoured to convince me that I should 
 regain my liberty in a day or two ; but I had a presen- 
 timent that no such good luck would befall me, and 
 with this feeling passed my second night in San Cristo- 
 bal. 
 
 During the first five days in the old palace we re- 
 ceived regular visits from the Americans and other 
 foreigners of the city. For the more destitute they 
 brought blankets and different articles of clothing, and 
 by their many acts of kindness endeavoured to make 
 all as comfortable as they could be under the circum- 
 stances. It was during one of these visits that our 
 friends gave us the particulars of a celebration in the 
 city in honour of Santa Anna’s leg — the one he lost 
 when San Juan de Ulua and Yera Cruz were taken by 
 the French. On the present occasion, a general holy- 
 day was given, and the limb was borne about in pro- 
 cession with great pomp and ceremony. Santa Anna 
 makes much capital out of this affair — enough to con- 
 sole him, probably, for the loss of the limb. On sev- 
 eral occasions it has been carried about in procession, 
 and I have little doubt that the leg, in pickle, is of infi- 
 nitely more service to him than when attached to his 
 own proper person. 
 
 The day after our arrival at San Cristobal, a sum of 
 
204 
 
 A COURT OF FUN. 
 
 money was sent out, by the Mexican government, of 
 sufficient amount to distribute twenty-five cents to each 
 man : the same sum was also furnished the next day. 
 With this the men could procure for themselves food 
 enough, in the shape of frijoles, tortillas, chile guisado, 
 and other articles which the Mexican women brought 
 to our quarters, to appease the keen demands of appe- 
 tite — it was all they were allowed. On the third day 
 the supplies from the city were stopped. The fourth 
 day came, and still no money ; the fifth, likewise, and 
 with it no succour. By this time the sufferings of those 
 who had no money were severe in the extreme, and 
 the tricks they resorted to in order to obtain food were 
 ingenious to a degree, and occasioned not a little merri 
 ment. 
 
 Among the prisoners were a number of lawyers, 
 doctors, and other professional men — persons who, ei- 
 ther from a love of wild adventure or because they 
 could obtain no professional employment in Texas, had 
 originally been induced to join the expedition. Then 
 there were several comedians among them, mad wags, 
 who, finding that the drama yielded them but slender 
 support in the new Republic, had shouldered the rifle 
 and taken to the prairies for a better. Out of such 
 materials it may readily be conceived that the richest 
 fun and frolic could be extracted, and the story of one 
 of their maddest pranks I will relate. 
 
 The wags knew that among the officers and mer- 
 chants there were some who had money, and to levy 
 a tax upon such pockets as were best filled these fel- 
 lows commenced a game which, in the end, not only 
 proved every way successful, but afforded infinite 
 amusement to all. They in the first place fitted up an 
 old, dilapidated apartment as a court-room. With two 
 
JIMMY TWEED. 
 
 205 
 
 barrels and as many boards they made a kind of plat- 
 form, upon which, as a bench, a claret-box was placed, 
 and upon this the jokers seated the largest prisoner in 
 the whole collection as judge — a half lawyer, who, in 
 addition to having all the gravity of the Grand Turk 
 himself, wore whiskers, mustaches, and hair in quan- 
 tity sufficient to supply wigs for an entire bench of 
 English justices. A sheriff, crier, and clerk — men who 
 well understood their business — were then appointed ; 
 an eccentric comedian, who could speak for hours upon 
 any subject, and possessed the keenest wit and the 
 strongest imitative powers imaginable, was chosen 
 prosecuting attorney. As principal witness in any 
 cases that might be brought they fell upon a little Irish- 
 man named Jimmy Tweed. Jimmy was born and 
 bred a soldier. He first drew breath in the barracks 
 of a recruiting regiment in Ireland, and in process of 
 time, after having picked up a fair education among 
 the officers, joined the regiment as a soldier. The 
 term of his enlistment he served principally at Gibral- 
 tar, where he obtained a name, to use his own words, 
 “ for being up to all manner of diviltry,” and where he 
 also learned a smattering of Spanish. On being dis- 
 charged, he visited the United States, joined the army, 
 served two or three campaigns in Florida, and was 
 finally discharged regularly at Baton Rouge, in Louisi- 
 ana. To finish his education, as he said, he then went 
 to Texas, and after various campaigns, was finally ta- 
 ken prisoner in New Mexico. He had all. the wit of 
 his countrymen, and a fund of dry humour which was 
 inexhaustible. 
 
 Thus organized, the court proceeded to the trial of 
 such cases as they thought might be turned to their 
 own profit. More decorum, more order, or more grav- 
 Vol. II. — S 
 
206 
 
 LUDICROUS TRIAL. 
 
 ity of deportment was never seen in any court of jus- 
 tice. The crier in some way procured a small bell, 
 and in regular form called the court together and is- 
 sued his proclamations — the sheriff, with all the dignity 
 imaginable, commanded silence, compelled all to take 
 off their hats, and was very efficient in preserving the 
 best order. 
 
 The first action upon their singular law-docket was 
 brought against a young and very worthy man, a mer- 
 chant, who was charged with being a “ great fool gen- 
 erally” — I am not altogether positive but that the first 
 word in the indictment may have been a much more 
 forcible adjective than the simple term “ great.” The 
 judge remarked that the charge was one extremely 
 grave in its character, and admitted that he could not, 
 at the time, think of any precedent that might guide 
 him in his decision, which, he wound up by saying, 
 should be a just and a righteous one. The prosecuting 
 attorney, after a few pertinent remarks, brought up 
 several witnesses to sustain the charge. Their evi- 
 dence, which of course was made up and suited for the 
 meridian of this particular court alone, all went to sup- 
 port the prosecution. The case, as made out, was clear 
 enough — not a doubt arose as to the truth of the charge 
 set forth in the indictment — but to make all sure, Jim- 
 my Tweed was brought up to the stand. After kiss- 
 ing a brickbat with due gravity, there being no Bible 
 in the court, Jimmy proceeded, with his testimony. He 
 instanced several particulars in which the accused 
 party had evinced very little foresight — mentioned sev- 
 eral of his actions which manifested great lack of judg- 
 ment and knowledge of the world, and finally wound 
 up by saying that the fact alone of his being found in 
 
A WISE JUDGMENT. 
 
 207 
 
 company with the Santa Fe Expedition was ample evi- 
 dence against him. 
 
 At this point of the trial symptoms of uproarious 
 laughter were manifested in court, all which were in- 
 stantly quelled by the sheriff, and the judge then pro- 
 ceeded to give his decision. Drawing himself up, 
 throwing back his head, and clearing his throat with a 
 preparatory “ hem,” and then raising one leg over the 
 other with all becoming dignity, he remarked that all 
 the evidence bore strongly against the accused, but that 
 the testimony of the last witness, in particular, view it 
 in what light he would, clearly sustained the charge that 
 the arraigned party was slightly afflicted with a weak- 
 ness known as “ the simples”— troubled with not being 
 so particularly wise as be might and should have been. 
 He admitted that the charge which had been thus 
 proved was a misfortune rather than a crime ; but in- 
 asmuch as the times w r ere hard, and victuals scarce, he 
 should impose a fine of two dollars upon the accused. 
 The latter, who enjoyed the joke as much as any one, 
 interposed no motion in arrest of judgment, but paid the 
 fine at once, and thus ended the first trial. 
 
 The next action brought, although not quite so grave 
 in its nature, produced an infinite degree of merriment. 
 One of our officers, Captain H., was charged with bad 
 singing, or rather, as the indictment read, “ with at- 
 tempting to sing and making out badly at best.” A 
 number of witnesses testified, that at different times they 
 had been most excessively annoyed, even to the losing 
 of sleep, by the attempts of the accused at divers songs. 
 They all admitted, during a process of cross-question- 
 ing, that they were not exactly good judges of music ; 
 still, they considered themselves blessed with ears which 
 taught them to distinguish between the warbling of a 
 
208 
 
 A RARE VOCALIST. 
 
 canary and that of a crow — thought they could discover 
 a soothing influence in the notes of a nightingale which 
 they missed in the braying of a donkey. But as the 
 testimony of Tweed went directly to prove the charge, 
 and was a perfect gem in its way, I shall give it as 
 nearly as possible in his own words. 
 
 “Yer oner,” said Jimmy, with a ludicrous mock- 
 gravity and quizzical leer of his dexter eye, “ yer oner, 
 as I was walkin’ acrass the corral last evenin’, I heerd 
 sthrange, mystarius, and most unnath’ral sounds issu- 
 in’ from the officers’ quarthers up stairs — sounds resirm 
 blin’, yer oner, those made by a sawmill, whin in the 
 full tide of manufacthuring boards. Well, me curiosity 
 bein’ excited, I bethought meself I’d be after investi- 
 gatin’ the thing ; so whin I was abajo, yer oner, which 
 is the best Spanish I have at prisent about me for the 
 foot of the stairs, I heerd the sthrange sounds louder and 
 louder than iver. Up the steps I wint, and whin I was 
 arriba, which manes, yer oner, the head of the stairs, 
 divil a bit did it stop at all, at all. What in the name 
 of all the saints, thinks I to meself, has put a sawmill in 
 operation here away ? for I still thought it was one, yer 
 oner; so I opened the door cautiously, poked me head 
 in slyly, and what should me own eyes see and me own 
 ears hear but Captain H. himself, essayin’ a bit of a 
 ditty, yer oner.” 
 
 “ Doing what ?” questioned the judge. 
 
 “ Essayin’ a ditty, yer oner — attempting a stave of a 
 song — and — ” 
 
 “ Enough,” interrupted the high functionary upon the 
 claret box. “ If you mistook the singing of Captain H. 
 for those sounds ordinarily produced by a sawmill, the 
 case is clear enough that he has undertaken a task which 
 neither nature nor cultivation fits him to carry success- 
 
A SUPPLY OF MONEY. 
 
 209 
 
 fully through, and I shall fine him one dollar and fifty 
 cents for the attempt.” 
 
 In this way a number of cases, some for bad singing 
 and others for speaking bad Spanish, were disposed of, 
 and with the proceeds the merry wags procured a suf- 
 ficiency of provisions and chinguirite, the latter a spe- 
 cies of common rum manufactured from the sugar-cane, 
 to hold a wild revel that night among the ruins of San 
 Cristobal. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Supply of Money received. — Our Sick examined. — Visited by a large Party 
 of Americans from the City. — Hopes of Liberation still offered. — Reflec 
 tions as to the Nature of my Case. — Departure from San Cristobal. — Start 
 for the City of Mexico upon Asses. — The easy Gait of the genus Donkey. 
 — Arrival at the Shrine of “ Our Lady of Guadalupe.” — Flimsy Imposture 
 which caused its Erection. — Anecdote from Latrobe. — Nuestra Seiiora de 
 los Remedios. — Mexican Beggars. — Tiresome Travel across the Plains. — 
 The Garita. — Mexico, as seen in the Distance. — Arrival within the City. — ■ 
 Forlorn appearance of the Texans. — Commiseration of the Women. — 
 Anecdote of Mejor Bennett. — Arrival at the Hospital of San Lazaro. — Hid- 
 eous appearance of the Inmates. — A dreary Night.— Visited by the Hospi- 
 tal Physician. — His Prescriptions. — Description of San Lazaro and the un- 
 fortunate Lazarinos. — Speculations as regards the Leprosy. — Happiness 
 among the Lepers. — New Sports and Dances. — We are visited by Mr. 
 Mayer and other Americans. — Our Food at San Lazaro. — Kindness of 
 the Mexicans in their Hospitals. — Smuggled Food. — Visits of the Physi- 
 cian.— Removed to other Quarters. — Worse and Worse.- — Find our Room 
 overrun with Chinches. — Our Friends gain Access by Bribery.— Depar- 
 ture of Mr. Lumsden and Friends for the United States. — Thoughts of an 
 Escape. 
 
 On the day following that on which the singular and 
 laughable trials took place, and the wild feast that fol- 
 lowed them, a sum of money was received from Mexico 
 for our men. On the same day, two or three physi- 
 S 2 
 
210 
 
 THE AUTHOR’S PROSPECTS. 
 
 cians were sent out by Santa Anna to examine our sick. 
 A report now obtained currency to the effect that such 
 of the prisoners as were able to walk would be escorted 
 immediately to Puebla, or the castle of Perote, in the 
 direction of Vera Cruz, while those who were unwell 
 would be taken to some hospital in the city. The phy- 
 sicians pronounced eighteen unfit to travel, and as I was 
 labouring under cold and fever at the time, I was placed 
 on the list. Of the others, almost all were afflicted with 
 the small-pox, in some stage of the disease. 
 
 The day before our removal from our miserable quar- 
 ters at San Cristobal, we were visited by a large party 
 of Americans, among them Mr. Henry E. Lawrence, 
 of New-Orleans, who had but recently arrived from the 
 United States with despatches for Mr. Ellis. They all 
 gave me every hope that I Was speedily to be liberated, 
 and seemed confident that I should return to my home 
 in company with them ; but I was led to believe differ- 
 ently. The publication of the Chihuahua letter, I felt as- 
 sured, would be used by the Mexican government as a 
 pretext to detain me, arid at the time I could not think the 
 measures taken by Mr. Ellis to effect my release as effi- 
 cient as they should have been.-, I knew that a tempo- 
 rizing policy would never procure my liberation, and 
 that so long as the subject of my imprisonment was left 
 open to argument, I might be kept until my head was as 
 white as the summit of Popocatepetl. I looked upon 
 my own case in this light : I conceived that I had not 
 in any way forfeited my claim to American protection, 
 and that therefore an immediate demand for my release 
 should be made. On the other hand, if I had lost my 
 rights as a citizen of the United States, and should our 
 minister view my case in that light, I neither wished 
 nor expected that he would say or do anything in my be- 
 
VIEW OF HIS CASE. 
 
 211 
 
 half. I was a citizen either of the United States or of 
 Texas — if of the former, my imprisonment was unjust ; 
 if a Texan, I only hoped that nothing might be said in 
 reference to my case, and in that event I should imme- 
 diately set about making my escape. But while all this 
 was passing through my mind, my friends told me that 
 Mr. Ellis was using every exertion to procure my re- 
 lease, and that I was wronging him by harbouring a 
 different opinion. 
 
 Will the reader, for one moment, place himself in my 
 situation ? He will then, if an American citizen, be bet- 
 ter able to judge of my feelings. I had left New-Or- 
 leans, as I have before stated, with the openly-avowed 
 intention of making a tour through both Texas and 
 Mexico. I had armed myself, previous to starting, 
 with a passport and other documents plainly defining 
 my position, and on reaching Texas had still farther for- 
 tified myself with letters from influential gentlemen in 
 that country, in which it was expressly stated that I had 
 no connexion whatever, civil or military, with the San- 
 ta Fe Expedition — was subject to no control. On ap- 
 proaching the confines of New Mexico I had left the 
 command, determined to take no part in whatever might 
 occur. The first settlement I entered peacefully and 
 openly — I attempted no disguise, for in the honesty of 
 my intentions I could see no necessity for dissimulation 
 or concealment. I was arrested, searched, robbed not 
 only of property, but all my papers, and then, without a 
 hearing or without a trial, forced to undergo the fatigues 
 and dangers of the long march to Mexico. Arrived in 
 the vicinity of that city, I made known my case to the 
 United States minister ; I informed him of the circum- 
 stances of my having left the Texan expedition upon 
 the prairies, of my having been robbed of my papers 
 
212 
 
 A HARD CASE. 
 
 and liberty on first reaching the settlements of New 
 Mexico, with other important facts, and referred him to 
 Messrs. Van Ness and Falconer, then at liberty, for the 
 proofs. I also mentioned Colonel Cooke and Doctor 
 Brenham, who, although they had lost their liberty, still 
 retained their honour, as gentlemen who would cor- 
 roborate my statements. I knew that in thought I had 
 committed no offence whatever against the Mexicans, 
 and that even in deed my actions could not, by the wild- 
 est and broadest construction, be perverted or magni- 
 fied into crimes at all adequate to the punishment I had 
 already received. 
 
 Such were my thoughts whenever my own case pass- 
 ed in review before my mind ; and when to these are 
 added the facts that an English companion, whose po- 
 sition had certainly been more inimical than mine, had 
 at once been liberated by the Mexican authorities, and 
 that the imbecility and inefficiency of my government 
 were a theme for the constant taunts and jeers of the 
 Texans by whom I was surrounded, the American citi- 
 zen, proud of his birthright, will be brought to see and 
 feel the full bitterness of the situation in which I was 
 placed. The fault lies not with the people of the United 
 States, but with the rulers ,* for the fact is notorious 
 that a fear of losing political influence has induced those 
 in power to sacrifice the independence and jeopard 
 the honour of the country on more occasions than one. 
 Full well does the Mexican government understand 
 this weak point in our foreign policy, else we never 
 should hear of our countrymen being arrested, robbed 
 of all their evidence, denied a hearing, thrust into loath- 
 some prisons among malefactors, compelled to labour 
 in chains, and all to gratify the caprice or feed the re- 
 venge of some such tyrant as Santa Anna. 
 
REMOVAL TO MEXICO. 
 
 213 
 
 On the morning of the 9th of February, and in a 
 frame of temper by no means amiable, I was ordered 
 to prepare for the march to the city of Mexico. But a 
 short time previous, General McLeod, and such of the 
 prisoners as were able to make the journey, were march- 
 ed off in the direction of Puebla, on foot and under a 
 strong guard. They had scarcely gone when fifteen 
 poor but hardy donkeys were driven up in front of 
 San Cristobal for us to ride — three of our party being 
 so weak that litters were provided to transport them. 
 Mounted upon the donkeys, and with a gang of beg- 
 garly leperos to drive them, we were put en route for the 
 great city of Mexico, distant some twelve or fourteen 
 miles. In mere jest; and to cause uneasiness among 
 the more inexperienced, we had frequently, while upon 
 the road, spoken of the probability of our being com- 
 pelled to enter that city mounted upon asses, as a spe- 
 cies of punishment : little did I think, when I was giv- 
 ing all credit and colouring to these stories, that I was 
 actually thus to make my own entrance — ride into the 
 city of the Montezumas upon an unsaddled and unbri- 
 dled donkey ! 
 
 Than a jackass there is perhaps no animal with a 
 gait more easy ; but to see a full-grown man mounted 
 upon the back of one of them, without bridle or saddle, 
 and with no other means of guiding and directing his 
 course than by pulling his ears, is ludicrous in the ex- 
 treme, to say the least of it. The patient animals, how- 
 ever, jog quietly along, their noses close to the ground, 
 ready to pick up any bit of orange-peel or chance blade 
 of grass, and in the situation in which I then was I 
 would hardly have exchanged the sluggish little animal 
 on which I was perched for the proudest charger in 
 Christendom. 
 
214 
 
 A CATHOLIC LEGEND. 
 
 After we had passed through a succession of poor 
 villages, and across an arid plain, the lofty and impo- 
 sing dome of the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe 
 appeared in sight. We soon entered the little village 
 which surrounds the cathedral, our commander ordering 
 a short halt to rest and obtain water and refreshments. 
 
 I did not enter this noted church, but its history was 
 told us, and is interesting as showing by what nonsen- 
 sical superstitions and barefaced impostures the poor 
 Indians were originally gulled by a crafty priesthood. 
 There are different versions of the story, but they agree 
 in the main circumstances. Some three hundred years 
 ago not a solitary hut was standing in a village which 
 now contains its thousands of inhabitants, and probably 
 one of the richest and most magnificent religious estab- 
 lishments in the world. Near the site of the church, 
 shortly after the conquest by Cortez, a poor and simple 
 shepherd was tending his flock, not a dwelling in sight 
 save those in the distant city. Suddenly the Holy Vir- 
 gin appeared to this wandering shepherd, clad in ce- 
 lestial raiment, and with a face of pure and heavenly 
 beauty. She pointed to a small hill near, and then told 
 him to go forthwith to the city and tell the bishop it 
 was her will that a chapel should at once be built upon 
 the spot, to be dedicated exclusively to her. The af- 
 frighted man went to the city that night, but fearing 
 the bishop would not believe his story, he did not com- 
 municate the holy errand upon which he had been sent. 
 The next day the Virgin again appeared to him. With 
 much trembling he told her that he feared to open her 
 message to the bishop, lest that dignitary might ridicule 
 him as a fool or an impostor. She again commanded 
 him to communicate her desire to the bishop, and on 
 his second visit to the city the shepherd made known 
 
A MIRACULOUS BOUaUET. 
 
 215 
 
 to him all the circumstances. The bishop laughed at 
 the man as an impostor, and desired him to bring some 
 token that he had communicated face to face with the 
 Holy Mother. He returned to his flock on the third 
 day, and was again visited by the Virgin. She asked 
 him if he had well performed his holy mission, to which 
 he answered by telling her the result of his conference 
 with the bishop. “ Go,” said she, “ to yon barren rock,” 
 at the same time pointing to the desolate hill, “ and bring 
 me a bouquet of roses which you will find there.” The 
 poor shepherd, albeit knowing full well there were no 
 roses or flowers of any kind upon the spot, obeyed her 
 mandate. What was his surprise when he found the 
 roses as she had described them ? He gathered a beau- 
 tiful nosegay, and on returning to his singular visiter 
 she told him to proceed with it at once to the bishop, 
 and place it in his hands as an evidence of the truth of 
 what he had seen and heard. He now cheerfully obey- 
 ed, and presented the flowers as commanded. On re- 
 ceiving them, the bishop discovered, imprinted upon the 
 roses, an exquisite miniature of the Holy Virgin — a 
 miniature of such surpassing loveliness and finish as at 
 once convinced him that other than the hand of man 
 had painted it. Its divine origin, as the legend goes, 
 now seemed to him unquestionable. 
 
 With unwonted pomp and ceremony he had the mi- 
 raculous bouquet borne about in procession, the re- 
 quest of the Holy Virgin was at once obeyed, and a 
 temple dedicated entirely to her service was immediate- 
 ly erected on the spot she had pointed out. The fame 
 of the miracle spread far and near, and rich presents 
 came flowing in from all quarters. The reigning mon- 
 arch of Spain endowed with costly furniture and reli- 
 gious trappings the sacred cathedral of Nuestra Senora 
 
216 
 
 INJUDICIOUS BEGGARS. 
 
 de Guadalupe, she was ordained the patroness of Mex- 
 ico, and to the present time her temple is noted as 
 among the richest in the world. Such the flimsy im- 
 posture, and such the result. The lower classes of 
 Mexico still believe that the Virgin really appeared to 
 the shepherd, and flock in thousands to her shrine at 
 Guadalupe.* As I have before stated, I did not visit 
 the interior of the temple, but those who have describe 
 it as gorgeous and magnificent beyond comparison. 
 The exterior I can answer for as being of grand dimen- 
 sions and admirable architecture — partaking, so far as I 
 was able to judge, of the Moorish and Gothic styles. A 
 crowd of poor wretches — leperos, mendicants, and fe- 
 males in tattered attire — were lounging about the spot, 
 and several of them even went so far as to ask alms of us, 
 a party of sick, ragged, and miserable objects — calling 
 upon every saint in the Mexican calendar to shower 
 down prayers and blessings upon us in a torrent of 
 abundance if we would but give them a solitary claco.\ 
 
 * The entertaining writer Latrobe, in his work entitled “ The Rambler in 
 Mexico,” says that there is only one rival to the dominion of Our Lady of 
 Guadalupe in the affections of the common people of the valley of Mexico, 
 and that is Nuestra Sehora de los Remedios, whose shrine is to be seen in a 
 village near the base of the mountains west of the city. The leperos and 
 poblanitas, the latter the more common girls of the city, pin their faith, in 
 case of any impending danger, upon the wonder-working image of her of Los 
 Remedios ; and in cases of great emergency, as during the prevalence of the 
 cholera in 1833, she is brought with great pomp into the metropolis. On 
 one occasion it was settled that she should pass the night in town, as the 
 weather was unfriendly, and a suitable lodging was provided : but when 
 morning dawned, “ Our Lady” had vanished ! The fact was, that nothing 
 could keep her away from her own flock at Los Remedios, where, accordingly, 
 she was found at dawn in her usual place, covered with mud, however, from 
 having walked a number of leagues in a dark and rainy night ! And this mir- 
 acle is believed ! Alas ! poor human nature ! 
 
 t A piece of copper money, worth one cent and a half. An immense 
 batch of clacos were coined in 1842, but whether their intrinsic value was 
 one cent and a ha'lf I have my doubts. Santa Anna, with some of the other 
 government officers, probably made a “ pretty penny” by the copper war 
 which raged in Mexico during that year. 
 
ENTRY INTO THE CITY OF MEXICO. 
 
 217 
 
 The road from Guadalupe is a wide, straight thor- 
 oughfare, planted on either side with trees of rich fo- 
 liage, and leads directly into the heart of the city of 
 Mexico. As the hospital to which they were escorting 
 us was situated at the extreme end of the city, near the 
 point where the Vera Cruz road enters, the captain of 
 our guard struck off across the arid and desolate plains 
 which lie between Guadalupe and Mexico, with the in- 
 tention of finding a much nearer route. We were not 
 in the least annoyed at this change, as not one of us felt 
 anxious to show off our donkey-estrianism, if I may be 
 allowed to coin a word, in the heart of one of the proud- 
 est cities of the world. All, or nearly all, too, were 
 extremely unwell, and we were anxious to reach our 
 quarters, roll ourselves up in our blankets, and obtain 
 rest and sleep after the fatigues of the march. 
 
 Had we proceeded directly by the road, instead of 
 endeavouring to find a shorter route, we should have 
 reached our destination much sooner ; for we found the 
 plains cut up by gullies and partially-dry canals, with 
 here and there a small lake or pond by which our 
 course was obstructed. After turning and buffeting 
 about three or four hours to gain as many miles, we 
 were at length fortunate enough to reach the Vera 
 Cruz road, and following this, we soon passed the gari- 
 ta, or gate, and entered the great city of Mexico. 
 While upon the sandy plains, the immense number of 
 domes, steeples, and towers of the proud metropolis of 
 the New World, as its inhabitants are wont to term it, 
 were plainly visible, presenting a view than which 
 nothing can be more grand and imposing. 
 
 A more forlorn, wretched, ragged, and pitiable set of 
 Christians surely never before entered the place. Three 
 or four were in the very worst stage of the small-pox 
 Vol. II.— T 
 
218 
 
 A SCRirTURE-READ VETERAN. 
 
 and borne along upon litters, while the rest were seated 
 upon jackasses, and nearly all had the earlier symp- 
 toms of that disease plainly developed in their counte- 
 nances. The clothing, too, of the majority, would have 
 disgraced a party of beggars — a description of the dif- 
 ferent costumes were impossible. No wonder, then, 
 that our appearance excited deep sensation among the 
 women as we entered the city, for they crowded about 
 us in groups, wondering at the sight of a party of stran- 
 gers in plight so melancholy, guarded like criminals upon 
 the road. 
 
 Although suffering severely from headache at the 
 time, having but partially recovered from an attack of 
 fever at San Cristobal, I still could not help laughing at 
 a little circumstance which occurred before we had ad- 
 vanced twenty yards into the city. Among our party 
 was old Major Bennett, our quartermaster before the 
 capture of the expedition. The major was some fifty- 
 five or sixty years of age, hale and hearty naturally, al- 
 though suffering much at the time from the severe head- 
 ache and pains incident to the small-pox in its earlier 
 stages. He was a native of Massachusetts, born and 
 educated among the descendants of the Puritans, knew 
 the Bible almost by heart, and was always ready with 
 a passage from that book with which to illustrate or 
 point his discourse. The major was a young man at 
 the breaking out of the last war between the United 
 States and England, immediately enlisted in the service 
 of his country, and was a lieutenant at the celebrated 
 and hard-fought battles of Bridgewater and Lundy’s 
 Lane. In the earlier conflicts of Texas he was also en- 
 gaged, and was wounded in several places at the battle 
 of Victoria. He was now sick and a prisoner, but 
 nothing could depress his spirits or prevent him from 
 quoting Scripture, in or out of season. 
 
ODD QUOTATION. 
 
 219 
 
 The anecdote I am about to relate showed the char- 
 acter of the man, and would have provoked a smile 
 from Niobe herself. The major was drumming, with 
 his heels, the flanks of a lazy donkey upon which he was 
 mounted, when three or four women came out of a 
 house immediately before him. Struck by his wretch- 
 ed appearance, the kind-hearted creatures clasped their 
 hands with pity, uttered their common expressions of 
 compassion, while their lustrous eyes became instantly 
 suffused with tears. The major saw the effect his wo- 
 begone aspect had created, and instantly resolved upon 
 a speech. Seizing his donkey by the ear and pulling 
 his head round — the common way of stopping the ani- 
 mal — he looked steadfastly in the faces of the poor 
 women who had marked his appearance. He then 
 raised his other hand, as if to impress more forcibly 
 what he was about to utter, and ejaculated, “ Weep not, 
 daughters of Mexico, your rulers are coming, seated upon 
 asses.” This slightly-altered quotation from the Scrip- 
 tures he uttered with a mock-gravity truly ludicrous, 
 and then, pulling his donkey’s head back to its original 
 position, by dint of much kicking forced it into a min- 
 cing trot, and soon overtook our party. I had paused 
 to hear the major’s speech, well knowing, from his char- 
 acter and the unwonted preparation he had made, that 
 it would be something uncommon ; but little did I think 
 he would force from me a laugh so hearty as that which 
 followed the winding-up of his address. What the 
 women thought of us I know not ; they of course did 
 not understand a word of what he said.*' 
 
 * Some strange fatality appears to have attended my more intimate friends 
 of the ill-fated Santa Fe Expedition. The ink with which I recorded tha 
 deaths of Fitzgerald, Brenham, Whittaker, Seavy, Holliday, and Old Paint 
 Caldwell had hardly dried, before I was compelled to add Major Bennett to 
 the list. He died during the fall of 1843, in Texas. 
 
220 
 
 HOSPITAL OF SAN LAZARO. 
 
 After crossing a canal immediately in the outskirts of 
 the city, and proceeding some three hundred yards, we 
 were drawn up and halted in front of the old church and 
 hospital of San Lazaro, or Saint Lazarus. Enclosed 
 within a wall were several buildings, devoted to the 
 uses of the sick and also of the priests and hospital at- 
 tendants, while in the centre was a small garden, in 
 which were a fountain and a profusion of roses and oth- 
 er flowers. To the right of the main entrance stands 
 the old church, which, with the department of the male 
 lazarinos, or lepers, forms nearly one side of the estab- 
 lishment, and has no wall around it. In fact, the walls 
 are only placed in the rear of the buildings. 
 
 Up to the very time of our arrival we were ignorant 
 of our destination, and as we now gazed upon the hide- 
 ous countenances that peered at us from the front build- 
 ing, we were still at a loss as to what manner of place 
 had been selected for our new prison ; that it was dis- 
 gusting and horrible was evident enough. 
 
 A short conference with some of the attendants at 
 the front door being over, our guard escorted us into the 
 interior. Although the shades of evening had by this 
 time set in, we could still see that the walls in the inte- 
 rior were hung with badly-painted pictures, the subjects 
 all religious. Arriving at a species of anteroom, look- 
 ing in upon a long and dimly-lighted hall which was 
 filled with cots, we were ordered to stop, and there take 
 up our lodgings for the night upon the floor. Within 
 the hall, though it was now nearly dark, we could plain- 
 ly see wretched figures hobbling about, many of them 
 upon crutches, and several of the unfortunate creatures 
 who came and looked at us were entirely bereft of 
 noses, and their faces otherwise horribly disfigured with 
 sores. Our guard informed us that the inmates were 
 
MEDICINE PERFORCE. 
 
 221 
 
 suffering under that dreadful disease, the leprosy, an 
 affliction almost unknown in the United States ; but al- 
 though we had much speculation on the subject, it was 
 not until the next day that we were made fully acquaint- 
 ed with “ the secrets of our prison-house.” 
 
 After an indifferent night’s sleep, for the passage-way 
 in which we had been compelled to take up our quar- 
 ters was cold, dreary, and uncomfortable, we rose the 
 next morning to a full sense of our wretched situation. 
 I was half dozing, when a slight shake of my shoulder 
 aroused me to full consciousness. The regular physi- 
 cian of the hospital was standing by me, accompanied 
 by the major-domo and several attendants. The former 
 asked me my disease, felt my pulse, looked at my tongue, 
 and then prescribed a dose of glauber salts and a light 
 diet. In truth, I was in good health enough, only re- 
 quiring quiet and nutritious food for a day or two to 
 recover my strength ; but the Mexican physician prob- 
 ably thought that salts could do me no harm, and ac- 
 cordingly prescribed them. I tried to beg off when the 
 attendant brought me the medicine, but was compelled 
 to swallow it to the very dregs. I have no peculiar 
 partiality for salts at any time, and now to take them 
 when there was not the least necessity appeared to give 
 the dose an additionally bitter flavour. To all the other 
 prisoners a particular medicine and diet were prescri- 
 bed ; those who were more severely afflicted were pro- 
 vided with cots in the long hall, while the rest of us 
 were compelled to remain in the dreary passage where 
 we had spent the first night. This not one of us re- 
 gretted when we had an opportunity of seeing the com- 
 panions with whom we should have been compelled to 
 associate in the large hall of San Lazaro. 
 
 The room in which the men afflicted with the leprosy 
 T 2 
 
222 
 
 HORRORS OF THE LEPROSY. 
 
 are confined is nearly three hundred feet in length, by 
 about thirty-five in width. The windows are large and 
 numerous, admitting a sufficiency of air during the heat 
 of the day, and are all grated. At first I could see no 
 reason why the windows of a hospital were grated ; but 
 afterward learned that when a person is known to be a 
 lazarino, or leper, he is at once taken to San Lazaro, 
 and there confined as a kind of prisoner until liberated 
 by death — for I believe that none ever recover from 
 the horrible disease. At the time when we were con- 
 fined in the hospital the male department contained 
 some fifty or sixty inmates, while in the female part of 
 the establishment, which was in another building, there 
 was a still greater number. 
 
 I feel not a little reluctant to attempt a picture of the 
 unfortunate wretches who inhabit San Lazaro. The 
 disease with which they are afflicted is unknown in An- 
 glo-Saxon countries, or if there are any cases they are 
 very rare. Other than those afflicted with the leprosy 
 there were no occupants of the hospital until our arri- 
 val, and the reason assigned by the Mexican govern- 
 ment for confining us there was said to be that we had 
 a contagious disease among us. The appearance of the 
 unfortunate lepers is loathsome and hideous to a degree 
 that beggars description. It makes its first appearance 
 by scaly eruptions on different parts of the face and 
 body of the victim, and these eruptions are never per- 
 fectly healed. The limbs of many, and more especially 
 the hands, at first appear to be drawn and twisted out 
 of all shape. Gradually the nose and parts of the feet 
 are carried away, while the features become distorted 
 and hideous. The voice assumes, at times, a husky and 
 unnatural tone, and again the doomed patient is unable 
 to articulate except in a shrill, piping treble. With 
 
GAYETY OF THE LEPERS. 
 
 223 
 
 many, when near the last stages, all powers of speech 
 are lost, and vainly do they endeavour to make known 
 their wants by sounds which belong not to this earth of 
 ours. Death steps in at last to relieve the poor crea- 
 tures of their sufferings, and to them at least it would 
 seem that the visit of the grim tyrant must be welcome. 
 
 Whether the leprosy of Mexico is contagious I am 
 unable to say. With many I have little doubt that it is 
 to a degree constitutional — being, in fact, hereditary, 
 and perhaps never entirely eradicated from the blood. 
 The climate may have some effect in engendering and 
 keeping alive the disease, but of this, too, I am uncer- 
 tain. The common belief among the lower classes is, 
 that it is communicated by contact ; and indeed I am 
 inclined to think that the only risk a person runs of ta- 
 king it is from touching the person of one afflicted with 
 it in its worst stages. The families and friends of the 
 lazarinos would frequently visit them, bringing many 
 little luxuries to add to their comfort. They would sit 
 and converse with them, too, for hours, apparently re- 
 gardless of danger ; but for myself I took particular 
 care not to come in too close contact with the unfortu- 
 nate lepers. 
 
 Notwithstanding their lot would seem to be most 
 melancholy, as a body they appeared well to enjoy 
 themselves. Afterward, and while confined among 
 them for some two months, I had every opportunity to 
 observe them closOly ; and One who has had no such 
 opportunity can hardly imagine how much happiness 
 and hilarity prevail among beings doomed to a linger- 
 ing but certain death. Many of them were continually 
 playing at draughts or cards, taking the most intense 
 interest in the games. On many occasions I saw par- 
 ties of four engaged at cards who had not a single nos© 
 
224 
 
 A FRIGHTFUL DANCE. 
 
 or entire finger among them ; and any little success of 
 one of them would be hailed with every demonstration 
 of delight. Their dexterity, too, in shuffling and deal- 
 ing cards, when bereft of fingers, was astonishing. 
 Many of them were musicians, performing on both the 
 harp and mandolin, and after nightfall they usually had 
 a dance among themselves. Frequently they were 
 visited by some of the female inmates of the hospital, 
 who would join their merry-makings. To describe one 
 of their dances were impossible. A set of them would 
 take the floor, composed of one or more couples. Some 
 of the dancers were upon crutches, and almost all were 
 in some way lame or disabled. The music would strike 
 up, and then would follow some monotonous Mexican 
 dance, accompanied by singing from voices which were 
 excruciatingly harsh and discordant. The weird sis- 
 ters around the magic caldron never made a more gro- 
 tesque or frightful appearance than did these lepers, 
 and had Macbeth encountered the latter upon the heath 
 he would have run outright, without even exchanging 
 a word of parley. The wretched inmates of the hos- 
 pital enjoyed themselves, however, at these dances, and 
 but that their loud laughter was grating and discordant 
 it would have sounded joyous enough. The true feel- 
 ings of merriment were there, but no midnight revel of 
 witches or hobgoblins, or of the misshapen dwarfs ro- 
 mancers have created, could compare with the horrible 
 manifestations of mirth that fell upon our ears, or could 
 in any way shadow forth the strange orgies we fre- 
 quently beheld within the gloomy walls of San Lazaro. 
 
 We were visited, the first day of our imprisonment 
 here, by Mr. Mayer and a large number of Americans, 
 all manifesting not a little disgust at the horrible situa- 
 tion in which they found us. Among the Mexicans 
 
DIET OF THE PRISONERS. 
 
 225 
 
 themselves this hospital is looked upon with a feeling 
 akin to terror — as a receptacle that never gives up its 
 victims — for those who once cross its gloomy threshold 
 seldom or never retrace their steps. Whether there 
 are other patients than those suffering with the leprosy 
 admitted within its walls I know not — the regular hos- 
 pital for the small-pox is situated in a different part of 
 the city, and why they did not take us to it was a mat- 
 ter of some surprise with all. 
 
 As regards our food, we had no reason to complain. 
 In their hospitals the Mexicans are invariably kind and 
 attentive to the sick, administering to their wants with 
 unsparing hands. While at San Lazaro, four loaves of 
 fine, well-baked wheaten bread were given to each of 
 the Texan prisoners every morning — an ample supply 
 for the day. For breakfast a tin cup of tea, made of 
 some herb to which I am a stranger, was brought us. 
 It was well sweetened, had a small quantity of milk 
 boiled with it, and although weak and rather insipid, 1 
 have little doubt it was extremely wholesome. During 
 the day a generous supply of orangeade was given us, 
 cool and refreshing. At noon our dinner was brought 
 to us in three tin cups, accurately made to fit one with- 
 in the other. The upper one was covered and served 
 as a cover for the second, as did the second for the one 
 at the bottom. The lower cup was generally filled 
 with mutton broth, having a piece of the meat left with- 
 in it, and also a quantity of garbanzos, or large Spanish 
 peas. In the second, they generally sent us a small 
 piece of baked mutton, and in the upper cup we found 
 alternately boiled rice and fried potatoes. Each cup 
 was numbered with the figures attached to some cot in 
 the hospital, and seeing the numbers on my dinner uten- 
 sils staring me in the face from the couch of a leper, 
 
226 
 
 EFFICACY OF A BRIBE. 
 
 my appetite for the contents was gone at once. After- 
 ward, when we complained of this carelessness of the 
 hospital waiters, the cups corresponding with the num- 
 bers of our cots were invariably brought to us. Nei- 
 ther knife, fork, plate, nor spoon was sent with the din- 
 ner, but as we had been accustomed to eat without such 
 conveniences, their non-appearance gave us but little 
 annoyance. 
 
 Many of the Texans had no appetites. Others, again, 
 swallowed their food with much apparent satisfaction ; 
 but there were those among us who could not be in- 
 duced to eat the plain but nutritious food offered them 
 on the first day — the appearance of everything around 
 was too revolting. Some of us succeeded, however, al- 
 though against positive orders, in bribing our guard to 
 smuggle in a quantity of fried eggs ; and watching an 
 opportunity when no one of the hospital attendants was 
 observing us, we stealthily made a very good dinner. 
 At night another cup of tea was brought us, and the bill 
 of fare of our first day in San Lazaro was not altered 
 during the stay of any of the Texans, except that a 
 lighter diet was ordered for those who were deemed un- 
 able to eat meat. 
 
 On the second morning we received another call 
 from the physician. He examined us all as on his first 
 visit, prescribing for such as he thought needed med- 
 icine. When my turn came I told the doctor that I was 
 much better — a little weak only — and that I thought 
 rest alone was requisite in my particular case. I was 
 anxious to escape taking his vile medicines, and this 
 time I succeeded. 
 
 In this way the first four days were spent, the doctor 
 paying us regular morning visits, and our American 
 friends calling upon us during the day. I was led to be- 
 
HALTING BETWEEN TWO OPINIONS. 
 
 227 
 
 lieve.in the mean time, that our minister might have ob- 
 tained my release upon parole, until my case should be 
 finally acted upon and decided by the Mexican govern- 
 ment ; but in this I was disappointed. I told my friends 
 that I would always hold myself subject to the disposal of 
 the American minister or the government of Mexico, 
 and be in readiness, when called upon, let my sentence 
 be what it might. Whether Mr. Ellis ever made an 
 attempt to procure my release on parole or not I am 
 unable to say ; he may have thought it unadvisable to 
 make any such solicitations while a correspondence 
 was pending in relation to myself. Had I been im- 
 prisoned in any other place than San Lazaro, I should 
 not have been so anxious to obtain a liberty only nom- 
 inal ; but to be compelled to breathe the air of that hor- 
 rible place,, and to have no associates but lepers and 
 small-pox patients, was at first annoying to a degree 
 that rendered the confinement almost insupportable. 
 Some of my friends advised me to report myself well 
 at once, in which case I should have been immediately 
 taken to Santiago and confined with Colonel Cooke’s 
 party. There I was confident I should be put in chains 
 and compelled to work in the streets — by no means a 
 pleasant anticipation to a person undergoing an impris- 
 onment than which nothing could be more unjust. 
 While halting between these opinions, and hardly know- 
 ing which to choose — San Lazaro, and all its horrors 
 of association, or Santiago and the chain-gang — such 
 of us as could not be provided with cots, were ordered 
 to take up our beds — a blanket each — and prepare for 
 instant departure. 
 
 There were eleven of us in all who were now order- 
 ed to leave the hospital, seven of the original eighteen 
 being unable to move. Under a strong guard we were 
 
228 
 
 A NEW PRISON-HOUSE. 
 
 escorted some three or four squares directly towards 
 the heart of the city, in utter ignorance of our destina- 
 tion. Arrived in front of a gate having a mud house 
 on either side, and a small, gloomy church in the rear, 
 we were halted. An old Mexican in a ragged blanket 
 soon appeared at the gate, and ushered us into a small 
 room, upon the floor of which, stowed almost as close 
 as they could be, were a coarse mattress and two clean 
 blankets for each of us. Although the place seemed 
 anything 1 at comfortable, and in 'fact was in a condi- 
 tion hardly fit to shelter a brute, we still thought it a 
 palace in comparison with San Lazaro — we could now 
 breathe freely. Little did we then imagine the serious 
 annoyances to which we were to be subject in our new 
 quarters. 
 
 At dark, our rations of tea and bread were sent us 
 from San Lazaro. The tea was brought in the reg- 
 ular hospital cups ; but as the hideous inmates of that 
 horrible place were no longer in our presence, we drank 
 the beverage with far less reluctance. A regular guard 
 of soldiers was now stationed over us, one of them 
 marching up and down in front of our door. The old 
 Mexican with the ragged blanket offered to do any little 
 errand, and after sending him for candles we retired to 
 our mattresses, firmly impressed with the belief that we 
 were to sleep comfortably enough. The luxury of even 
 a mattress we had been strangers to for nine months, 
 a single blanket and the hard ground or floor having 
 been the bed of each during all that time ; but now that 
 we had been provided with an apology for a phce of 
 rest — now that a coarse husk mattress was b( tween 
 us and the floor — we considered ourselves fortunate, 
 and stretched our limbs upon the humble beds, confi- 
 dent of sound and refreshing sleep. 
 
NOCTURNAL INVADERS. 
 
 229 
 
 How bitterly were we disappointed ! Scarcely had 
 we touched the mattresses before we were visited by 
 myriads of chinches ! From every crevice and cranny 
 of the walls they poured in thousands — the cracks of 
 the floor appeared to send forth their legions to the on- 
 slaught. I thought of our quarters at San Miguel ; but 
 there our tormentors came only by hundreds, while 
 here we were literally eaten alive by thousands. The 
 room we were in had been unoccupied, probably, for 
 months, and our assailants were as bloodthirsty as hy- 
 enas. The witty little Irishman, Jimmy Tweed, who 
 was of the party, declared that he would willingly 
 change his situation for a den of half-starved, royal 
 Bengal tigers, while old Major Bennett alluded to the 
 locusts and other plagues of Egypt as trifling in com- 
 parison with what we were compelled to endure. To 
 obtain a moment of sleep was utterly impossible, and 
 after a night spent in tossing and rolling about we were 
 rejoiced when daylight came, for it drove our annoying 
 visiters to their hiding-places. We made a complaint 
 the next day, and asked to be removed to any place — 
 back even to San Lazaro and all its horrors — but our 
 request was unheeded. After this, and while confined 
 in our present quarters, we slept much during the day, 
 and our nights we passed in reading and conversation. 
 
 The colonel of the regiment from which our guard 
 was detailed gave orders to the different sergeants that 
 no one was to be allowed to visit or hold any conver- 
 sation with us ; but this did not prevent our friends 
 from gaining access. A dollar, slily slipped into the 
 hand of any of the guard, would gain an admittance 
 readily. Books and writing paper, besides many little 
 luxuries, were brought by my friends ; the old Mexi- 
 can who had charge of the premises was always ready 
 Vol. II.— U 
 
230 
 
 DEPARTURE OF MR. LUItfSDEN. 
 
 to bring us any article of food we might wish, and but 
 for the vile chinches at night we really should have 
 passed our time agreeably enough. The sergeant of 
 one of our guards, a light mulatto, was invariably at- 
 tentive. He was born in New-Orleans, but at an early 
 age emigrated to Mexico, where he had joined the 
 army. Having picked up an education, just enough to 
 read and write, he had been promoted, and ever when 
 he was on guard we were well treated. He was par- 
 ticularly partial to me j learning that I was a resident 
 of his native city, he asked me innumerable questions 
 of the place and its older inhabitants, and invariably 
 called me his paisano, or countryman. 
 
 On the 18 th of February Mr. Lumsden, with a party 
 of United States naval officers, among whom were 
 Lieutenants Blunt and Johnson, left Mexico in the stage 
 for Vera Cruz, on their way home. They had by this 
 time nearly given up all hope of my being liberated 
 through the intervention of Mr. Ellis, and Mr. L., in 
 particular, was anxious that I should at once attempt an 
 escape, either by bribing the guard or slipping past 
 them in the night. The undertaking would have been 
 fraught with little danger ; but I was advised by friends, 
 so long as my associate in business was in the country, 
 to make no attempt of the kind. His movements were 
 said to be closely watched by the authorities ; and had 
 I escaped while he was in the city, the circumstance 
 would, in all probability, have involved him in difficulty, 
 and very likely caused his arrest as in some way acces- 
 sory. Under these circumstances I determined to make 
 no attempt at an escape, at least until my friends were 
 safely out of the country. 
 
TAKEN ILL WITH SMALL-POX. 
 
 231 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Taken ill with the Small-pox.— Washington’s Birthday. — A Patriotic Amer- 
 ican. — An excellent Dinner, — More of the Small-pox. — Ordered to move 
 our Quarters. — Once more among the Lepers of San LaZaro. — Eight of 
 our Companions marched to Santiago. — Philosophy in Chains.-r-The Irons 
 nothing after one gets used to them. — Fresh Air and Exercise. — Determi- 
 nation to forego them. — System of Anointing in San Lazaro. — Anecdote of 
 Lieutenant Burgess. — Visit from Mr. Lawrence. — His Departure for the 
 United States. : — Death of an unfortunate Leper.— A midnight Funeral in 
 San Lazaro. — Its imposing yet gloomy Character. — Mass in the Church 
 of San Lazaro. — Decorations of the Establishment. — Disgusting Figure of 
 St. Lazarus.— A Procession and a Present— Don Antonio. — The Fruits of 
 Mexico. — A File, of American Newspapers. — Present from Mr. Ellis. — 
 Visited by Mr. Falconer.’ — Beauties of the “ Vicar of Wakefield.” — Death 
 ofianother Leper. — Five of our Companions marched to Santiago. — Prep- 
 arations fora Celebration. — Thellth of March in San Lazaro. — The Hospi- 
 tal visited by Throngs. — Compelled to receive Alms.— Dinner provided for 
 us by a Party of Ladies. — Take an Account of Stock. — Strange Present 
 from a Mexican Lady. — “Charles O’Malley” in San Lazaro. — Another 
 Celebration among the Lepers. — Fondness of the Mexicans for Flowers 
 and Ornaments. — A dolorous Chant. — The Celebration closes with a 
 Dance. — Wild Revels of the Lepers. 
 
 On the 19th of February, the day after Mr. Lums- 
 den left for New-Orleans, I was taken with a slight fe- 
 ver, pains in my bones and head, and other symptoms 
 of the small-pox. I had been previously vaccinated, 
 and therefore cared little for the disease except as it oc- 
 casioned annoyance and severe suffering. On the 22d, 
 Washington’s birthday, a lithographed portrait of the 
 “ Father of his Country” was brought to each prisoner 
 by a warm-hearted and enthusiastic American resident, 
 and accompanying these were a generous chicken pie 
 and several bottles of excellent wine. I was much too 
 ill, however, to partake of these luxuries ; in fact, I was 
 unable to sit up from extreme dizziness and pain in my 
 head. I took little or no medicine for the disease, and 
 
232 
 
 BACK AGAIN. 
 
 after suffering greatly for some six or eight days, final- 
 ly recovered, and without being in the least marked. 
 Those who had never been vaccinated suffered incred- 
 ibly, and were badly pitted if they survived ; but many 
 of them died of the disease. In such as had been vac- 
 cinated, the disease was mild in comparison, although 
 they endured the very extreme of pain from bad at- 
 tendance and the want of comfortable apartments and 
 beds to sleep upon. That any of those recovered who 
 had the disease in its worst form while upon the road, 
 is certainly remarkable — their sufferings were horrible, 
 and numbers of them were not only pitted to a great 
 degree, but one or two were so unfortunate as to lose 
 an eye. 
 
 On the 25th of February, without a word or hint of 
 previous warning, we were all ordered to pack up and 
 remove to other quarters, our guard not even informing 
 us whither we were to be taken. By this time I had 
 almost entirely recovered from my illness, and as Judge 
 Ellis had kindly sent me an excellent mattress and cot 
 bedstead, I was very comfortable. My companions, 
 who still slept on the floor, were exceedingly annoyed 
 by the legions of chinches that infested the place, but I 
 was enabled to keep the tormentors from my imme- 
 diate premises during the greater part of the night, and 
 began fairly to conceive a liking for our prison-house, 
 dirty and dreary as it was. The anticipation of being 
 placed in worse quarters, for we heard horrible stories 
 of the prisons of Mexico, may have induced this feel- 
 ing. 
 
 After being formed in front of our prison, with the 
 soldiers of our guard stationed on either side, we were 
 ordered to march. Our course was in the direction of 
 San Lazaro, and a walk of a few minutes found us once 
 
GETTING USED TO CHAINS. 
 
 233 
 
 more safely housed within the walls of that gloomy 
 establishment. Five of my convalescent companions 
 were now ordered to be in immediate readiness for a 
 move, together with three of those who had been left at 
 San Lazaro when we were first taken thence. It was 
 now evident that some of us wnre still to be retained 
 within the hospital — the disposition to be made of our 
 companions was shrouded in Mexican mystery, the 
 most impenetrable of all. Under the usual strong guard 
 the eight Texans were marched off, each man carrying 
 his blanket and little wallet. 
 
 The next day, a Mexican girl called at San Lazaro 
 with news of Colonel Cooke’s party. Watching an 
 opportunity, when no one was observing us, Francisca, 
 for that was the girl’s name, slipped a note into my 
 hand. As soon as I could open it without attracting 
 the notice of our sentinels, for one or two of them were 
 continually marching before our cots, I found the billet 
 to be from one of our companions who had been separ- 
 ated from us the preceding day. He said that they 
 were all with Colonel Cooke’s party at Santiago, and in 
 chains : but that wearing the “ trinkets” was nothing 
 after a person got used to them ! This was philosophi- 
 cal, to - say the least of it. In addition, the writer in- 
 formed me that a number of the prisoners were about 
 to be taken to Tacubaya, a small but pleasant village 
 some five miles from the city, to work upon the road in 
 front either of the archbishop’s or of Santa Anna’s pal- 
 ace, and that I could probably join the delightful party 
 by reporting myself well ! Here was an opportunity 
 to get used to chains, and to obtain fresh air and exer- 
 cise ; but feeling that I had no highway taxes to work 
 out in Mexico, and not being particularly anxious to ap- 
 pear in public with one end of a long, jingling, clanking 
 U 2 
 
234 
 
 ANOINTING. 
 
 chain made fast to my ankle, and a man at the other 
 end, I took all the pains in my power to decline the po- 
 lite invitation of my friend. I was in no very enviable 
 situation, to be sure, confined in San Lazaro among hide- 
 ous, unclean wretches, whose very aspect was enough 
 to frighten a man into almost any measure ; but as in 
 the hospital they would not place me in chains, and as 
 I would have a far better opportunity of making an 
 escape while there, I resolved to remain and forego all 
 the fresh air and exercise I might obtain while working 
 upon Santa Anna’s roads, and in the fetters of a crimi- 
 nal. To remain at -San Lazaro was a matter easy 
 enough, at least so long as real sickness might detain 
 any of my companions ; for the hospital physician was 
 a worthy, good-natured man, not disposed to investigate 
 too closely a chronic rheumatism I “ got up” especially 
 as an excuse to stay. The only prescription he order- 
 ed in my case was a warm bath in the morning, and an 
 occasional greasing at night. The former was agree- 
 able enough ; the latter I infinitely preferred to taking 
 his vile glauber salts, cosamiento bianco* and other in- 
 ward remedies. This practice of anointing the pris- 
 oners from head to foot, with a preparation of harts- 
 horn, lard, and other ingredients which I could not de- 
 tect, was very common in San Lazaro. 
 
 I remember laughing heartily one evening while 
 Lieutenant Burgess, one of the Texan officers, was 
 rubbed with the liniment by a broad-shouldered, large- 
 mouthed Mexican. The former was a man of less than 
 the medium size, while the operator was one of the 
 largest Mexicans I had ever seen. He had just finish- 
 
 * The cosamiento bianco appeared to be a very common and very innocent 
 medicine — to judge from its appearance and taste, a mixture of magnesia and 
 water. 
 
DEATH OF A LEPER. 
 
 235 
 
 ed rubbing the shoulders of the lieutenant, and had 
 ceased his operation for a moment, when Burgess, look- 
 ing him full in the face, with a ludicrous expression of 
 mock-gravity and well-counterfeited alarm, exclaimed, 
 “ I wonder if the fellow is going to swallow me alive !” 
 
 On the 26th of February, Mr. Lawrence, who was to 
 depart the next morning in the stage for Vera Cruz, 
 called at San Lazaro to take his leave of me, accom- 
 panied by a gentleman who is a Corsican by birth, but 
 who is a naturalized American. They were not ad- 
 mitted into the hospital, express orders having been 
 given that no foreigner should be allowed to visit us ; 
 but the sergeant of the guard permitted me to see them 
 at the front entrance. Lawrence’s face gave me little 
 encouragement as regarded my liberation. He en- 
 deavoured to offer some hopes of a speedy release, but 
 I could plainly read that he hoped rather than believed 
 such would be the case. After I had told him to in- 
 form my friends in the United States that I would con- 
 trive some way to escape if the government did not 
 effect my liberation, that I had already gone through 
 much and could endure a great deal more, my two 
 friends took their leave. Why I know not, but during 
 an imprisonment of seven months I never felt so dis- 
 pirited, so ill at ease, and so restless as on this occasion, 
 and determined to embrace any opportunity to escape 
 that might occur. 
 
 The night Lawrence left us, a poor leper died in our 
 room. To pass away the long evening I was engaged 
 at a game of piquet with one of my fellow-prisoners, 
 when an attendant came and requested us to speak only 
 in whispers, as there was a man dying a few yards 
 from us. He said there was no objection to our con- 
 tinuing our play ; but as a priest was in close commu- 
 
236 
 
 SCENES IN THE LEPER-HOSPITAL. 
 
 nion with the sufferer, loud talking might disturb him 
 in his holy office. We ceased playing when the game 
 was over, and immediately after retired to our cots. 
 
 I could not but indulge in a train of serious reflec- 
 tions upon the singular objects by which we were sur- 
 rounded. In the same room, and but a few steps from 
 me, an unfortunate lazarino was receiving the last con- 
 solations the religion he professed offers to the dying, 
 while close by, a party of his companions, themselves 
 within a few short steps of the same grave which 
 was soon to receive the dying man, were busily en- 
 gaged at a game of monte ! So used to scenes of this 
 description were the inmates of San Lazaro that they 
 would have indulged, even at this time, in their usual 
 boisterous and most unnatural mirth had not the priest 
 forbidden it. In a far corner of the room a musical 
 leper was strumming some lively air on a mandolin ; 
 and although he played in a low and suppressed tone, 
 many of the notes of glee must have reached the ear 
 of the wretched sufferer. Directly opposite jny cot, 
 an aged and gentlemanly Spaniard, in the last sta- 
 ges of leprosy, and who, in fact, died a few weeks 
 after, was ever and anon striking a light and smoking 
 his cigarritos with cook and philosophical indifference. 
 Around a small charcoal furnace, in the centre of the 
 room, a knot of lepers were heating their atole and tor- 
 tillas — and they, too, with the perfect consciousness 
 that one of their number was about to leave them for- 
 ever, were chatting busily and tittering with the half- 
 suppressed laugh some story of merriment might elicit 
 — a laugh which would have been boisterous had it not 
 been restrained by the presence of the man of God. 
 Even among ourselves, we could not look upon the 
 scene with those feelings of awe and deep solemnity it 
 
A MIDNIGHT FUNERAL. 
 
 237 
 
 would have awakened in other days ; for the heart be- 
 comes callous by familiarity with affliction, misery, and 
 death. While surrounded by the humanizing influences 
 of society, it is difficult to conceive how the warmest 
 feelings of our nature may become chilled by exposure 
 to hardships and acquaintance with suffering ; and con- 
 fident I am that not one of the Texans then confined in 
 San Lazaro can now look back upon the scenes he 
 there beheld, without actual astonishment at the cold 
 indifference he manifested at the time — scenes which, 
 were he to encounter them at home, would arouse all 
 becoming sensibility. 
 
 In the midst of a train of reflections, as singular in 
 their nature as the associations around me, I fell asleep. 
 About midnight I was awakened by the ringing of a 
 bell and a tramp of men, and on opening my eyes be- 
 held a procession of priests and attendants, bearing 
 lighted candles, and preceded by a boy with a small 
 bell, passing my cot in the direction of the dead leper — 
 for he had now breathed his last. There is something 
 touchingly solemn and impressive in the funeral rites of 
 the Catholic Church, even at ordinary times and on or- 
 dinary occasions ; but a midnight funeral, in such a 
 dreary place as San Lazaro, gave an additional solem- 
 nity to the ceremonies. As the procession passed me, 
 the members of it were muttering inarticulate prayers 
 and crossing themselves. The brilliant light from the 
 numerous candles showed the inmates in different atti- 
 tudes of prayer near their cots — now muttering a few 
 words, and then beating their breasts as in deep grief 
 for the loss of their companion. Arrived at the corpse, 
 it was placed in a rough coffin, all knelt around, a pray- 
 er for the rest of the departed spirit was said by one of 
 the priests, and then, with incense burning and the bell 
 
238 
 
 CHAPEL OF SAN LAZARO. 
 
 ringing, the procession inarched in regular order from 
 the room, leaving all again in darkness. Thus ended 
 the impressive and melancholy rites, but the memory 
 of those midnight ceremonies must still haunt all who 
 were spectators — I can never forget them. 
 
 The morning after the events I have just related hap- 
 pening to be Sunday, we were all aroused at an early 
 hour by the ringing of a small bell, calling the inmates 
 of the hospital to mass. On this occasion I rose, and 
 hastily dressing myself, attended the celebration. The 
 church formed one side of the establishment, and to pre- 
 vent all means of escape, a guard was stationed at the 
 outer door. The interior of the church was decorated 
 with numerous paintings illustrative of the sufferings of 
 our Saviour, and especially those of the patron saint of 
 the establishment, St. Lazarus. These paintings were 
 generally badly-executed copies, but a wax figure of 
 the saint, lying in a glass case and representing him as 
 dead, was revoltingly natural. The artist had repre- 
 sented his subject as covered with sores, and so faith- 
 fully that the beholder could not but instantly turn from 
 its contemplation with feelings of deep disgust. The 
 marble floor of the church, for in Mexico there are no 
 seats in the religious establishments, was covered with 
 kneeling lepers, crossing themselves, beating their 
 breasts, and telling their beads. After standing a short 
 time in the church J left it for my quarters in the ad- 
 joining hospital, resolved never again to attend mass 
 unless compelled by those in whose power I was ; and 
 as the priests of San Lazaro were so liberal as not to 
 enforce our attendance, I did not a second time enter 
 their church. In other places the prisoners were forced 
 to attend the religious ceremonies, and in chains. 
 
 From the church I returned to my quarters, and be- 
 
MEXICAN FRUITS. 
 
 239 
 
 gan writing long letters to my friends in the United 
 States, having learned that a packet was shortly to sail. 
 At dinner-time, and before I had yet finished a letter 
 upon which I was engaged, we were visited by a pro- 
 cession of priests and young lads, the latter being en- 
 gaged in a course of studies before taking holy orders. 
 The visit was not intended for us alone, but for all the 
 inmates of the hospital. The procession made the en- 
 tire circuit of the room, one of the lads handing each of 
 the unfortunate prisoners a medio* and a small bunch 
 of paper cigars. Our dinner, which on Sundays was a 
 little better than during the week, although served in 
 the same cups, was brought to us by the lads, and each 
 knelt upon one knee as he gave it into our hands. Af- 
 ter this, there was some little ceremony in relation to 
 the poor leper who had died the night before, and this 
 over the procession left the room. 
 
 The old major-domo of the hospital, Don Antonio as 
 he was called, allowed the fruit- women to visit us at 
 all times, and this served to render our situation much 
 more endurable. A person can live entirely upon the 
 delicious and almost endless varieties of fruit which 
 abound in Mexico, and little did I care for the boiled 
 meats and broths — the regular hospital fare — when I 
 could buy the fruit, which is there sold at a trifling cost. 
 Not a day passed in which we could not purchase bana- 
 nas, granaditas, oranges, melons of various kinds, pine- 
 apples, cayotes, chirimoyas, different species of a deli- 
 cious fruit called the zapote, mangoes, and other tropical 
 productions, many of which I have never seen in any 
 part of the United States. Some of these fruits are 
 raised in the vicinity of Mexico, but the larger portion 
 are brought from the tierras calientes, or hot countries, 
 * Sis and a quarter cents. 
 
240 
 
 THE VICAR OF WAKEFIEED. 
 
 the great elevation and consequent coolness of the cli- 
 mate in the neighbourhood of the city not allowing them 
 to be cultivated in their full perfection. 
 
 On the 2d of March, the secretary of legation, Mr. 
 Mayer, who was ever attentive to me during my con- 
 finement, called with a bundle of American newspa- 
 pers. No one, unless he has undergone a close impris- 
 onment in a foreign country, can appreciate such a treat 
 as a file of newspapers affords. I read and re-read 
 them, advertisements and all, and the different familiar 
 names I saw carried me back to other and happier 
 days. 
 
 The next morning Mr. Mayer again called with a 
 box of excellent cigars and several bottles of wine, a 
 present from Mr. Ellis. Mr. Falconer, too, who had 
 been on a visit to Real del Monte, made me a call, re- 
 gardless of the danger he incurred of contracting the 
 contagious diseases which prevailed in San Lazaro. I 
 cannot too highly appreciate the kindness of Mr. May- 
 er, Mr. Black, and many other Americans who called 
 upon me while at that loathsome prison — their visits, 
 which certainly were fraught with no little peril to 
 themselves, served to beguile many a heavy hour, and 
 alleviate an imprisonment which would otherwise have 
 been insupportable. 
 
 Mr. Falconer brought me a number of excellent 
 books — among them several of Miss Howitt’s simple 
 but beautifully- written tales, and Goldsmith’s Vicar of 
 Wakefield. I had read the latter frequently, but the 
 circumstances under which I was now placed imparted 
 to it unwonted charms. Surely I never before had ap- 
 preciated this chef-d’ouvre of that great master of Eng- 
 lish composition. The simplicity and graceful ease of 
 the style, its quiet and playful humour, its touching pa- 
 
VARIETIES OF LEPROSY. 
 
 241 
 
 thos, and the interest of the narrative quite enchained 
 me. I almost forgot the painful situation in which I 
 myself was placed while reading the trials and afflic- 
 tions of the pure and pious vicar. 
 
 From the 4th to the 8th of March our time passed 
 without any incident worthy of note occurring. On 
 the night of the last-mentioned day, about the middle 
 watches, another unfortunate leper died in our room. 
 He had suffered much during the twenty-four hours 
 previous to his death, his groans filling the air, and ren- 
 dering the situation of all more gloomy than ever. 
 Again the procession of priests and assistants was in at- 
 tendance, the usual ceremonies were performed, and 
 the body was carried from the hospital and placed in 
 the adjoining church.* 
 
 The next morning, a Mexican officer and guard of 
 men arrived, with orders to escort five- of my compan- 
 ions to Santiago. Iexpected that I, too, should be or- 
 dered to “ take up my bed and walk” with the rest ; 
 but the hospital physician had hot as yet reported jne 
 well, and I was allowed to remain. I was by no means 
 desirous to change my quarters, miserable as they were ; 
 
 * If all the Mexican inmates of San Lazaro were afflicted with leprosy, 
 and we were told that such was the case, there mast be three or four differ- 
 ent species of the disease. The faces of some oT the lazarinos were covered 
 with blotches and eruptions, while their hands and feet were unmarked. 
 Others, again, had complexions exceedingly fair and unblemished, yet their 
 feet and hands were distorted or decayed. Some of the victims of the dread- 
 ful scourge were covered, from head to foot, with sores and ulcers hideous 
 to look at— and then there were two or three cases where the patients pre- 
 sented no other marks of the disease than the. loss of a nose. But the most 
 singular case of all was that of the old Spaniard— I think he was a Spaniard 
 — whom 1 have previously mentioned as continually smoking his cigarritos. 
 His flesh appeared to be entirely gone — dried up— his skin turned to a bluish 
 purple — and his whole appearance was so strangely changed and distorted, 
 that he more resembled an animated mummy than aught else I can compare 
 him to. His senses he still retained, while his actions and conversation 
 convinced us that he was a well-informed and gentlemanly man. 
 
 VOL. II.— X 
 
2i2 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR A FETE. 
 
 for I felt assured that I should at once be put in chains, 
 and sent into the streets to work, if taken to Santiago. 
 Still I was anxious to see the different 'members of 
 Colonel Cooke’s party, but San Lazaro had, by this time, 
 lost many of its horrors — we can soon familiarize our- 
 selves with any spectacle, however revolting — and I 
 preferred remaining there, at least until I was assured 
 that better quarters awaited me elsewhere. Only seven 
 of our original party were now left in San Lazaro, four 
 of whom were slowly recovering from severe attacks 
 of the small-pox. 
 
 The 10th of March was spent in cleansing and pre- 
 paring the hospital for the imposing ceremonies of the 
 day of San Lazaro, which were to take place on the 
 morrow. The large folding doors opening to our apart- 
 ment from without were closed and fastened, two small 
 side doors only being left open to admit the immense 
 throng who on this anniversary visit the hospital. A 
 Yankee, with a strip of board, a hammer, and half a 
 dozen nails, would have securely fastened this large 
 door in half an hour — it took half a dozen Mexicans, 
 with tools and timber enough to build a small dwelling, 
 an entire day to perform the same Operation. Not one 
 of us could possibly divine what object these Mexican 
 carpenters had in view all the while, until one of them 
 told us they were fastening the door. This little cir- 
 cumstance will serveffo show the state of many of the 
 mechanic arts throughout Mexico. No improvements, 
 no labour-saving machines are ever brought into re- 
 quisition, but the same means to effect an object two 
 hundred years ago are all that are known at the present 
 day. 
 
 In the mean time, while the clumsy workmen were 
 busy fastening the doors, the lepers were engaged in 
 
GAY ATTIRE OF THE LEPERS. 
 
 243 
 
 decorating, the interior of the room ; and here the Mex- 
 icans excel. Festoons, flags, and devices, cut in paper 
 of all colours, were hung about the walls, and the lamps 
 were decorated in the same way. The word“carz- 
 dad” — charity — was also neatly cut in paper and pasted 
 about on the different utensils, and in places where it 
 would readily strike the eye of visiters. The floor 
 was stained with a yellow tint, and on the ; ceiling long 
 strips of red, white, and blue muslin were tastefully ar- 
 ranged in bows and different fanciful forms, giving re- 
 lief and beauty to the general appearance. Flowers 
 also were entwined about the cots, and, considering the 
 material with which the lepers were provided, I doubt 
 whether any other people under the sun could have 
 given the room an appearance as beautiful as ours pre- 
 sented on the occasion of which I speak. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning the clothing on 
 the different cots was changed, and the lepers began 
 arraying themselves in all their finery. It was indeed 
 strange to see these unfortunates — many of whom were 
 standing almost upon the brink of the grave, and whose 
 forms and faces' were revolting to such a degree that 
 the first sight could not but create the most sickly sen- 
 sations — I repeat, it was most wondrous strange to see 
 them equipped in their glaring holyday finery, appa- 
 rently as vain as giddy drawing-room belles, their self- 
 esteem leading them into an extravagance of display 
 that would have been irresistibly comic had not the cir- 
 cumstances of their position been otherwise so melan- 
 choly and deplorable. 
 
 As the hour of nine approached the visiters began 
 to assemble. Entering by one of the side doors, they 
 would slowly walk the entire circuit of the room, ex- 
 amine the different inmates, bestow such presents as 
 
244 
 
 ALMSGIVING. 
 
 they had brought with them, and then depart by the 
 door on the opposite side. This method of entering 
 and departing was adopted to prevent that crowd and 
 confusion which would otherwise have taken place. 
 
 By twelve o’clock the throng was immense, a con- 
 tinual stream of visiters pouring into the hospital. There 
 were gentlemen and leperos ; priests, with their shovel- 
 hats, and soldiers ; girls with the Poblana dress — short 
 and gaudy petticoats, fancifully- worked chemises, gay 
 satin shoes, and no stockings — end girls with hardly 
 any dress at all ; monks and gamblers ; beggars in l'ags 
 and ladies richly attired in satin, and brilliant with dia- 
 monds ; friars and vagabonds ; in short, a general as- 
 sortment of a population than which one more diversi- 
 fied does not exist. The cots occupied by myself and 
 companions were in the corner of the room near which 
 the throng entered, and all stopped to gaze at us with 
 intense curiosity. Finding that almost all brought with 
 them some present to bestow, and that we were to re- 
 ceive every claco, cigar, loaf of bread, or whatever was 
 offered, I endeavoured to assume as independent an air 
 as possible, and let them know that I did not in any 
 way stand in need of their charity. I cordially disliked 
 the idea of sitting, like a poor beggar at a corner, and 
 receiving the pitiful alms of every passer; but to avoid 
 it was impossible. To prevent wounding the feelings 
 of those who were certainty actuated by the kindest 
 motives, I took everything that was offered — loaves of 
 bread, cakes, oranges, flowers, fruits, puros, cigarritos, 
 money, and all.* 
 
 * The puro is the common cigar of Mexico. The ends are not pointed, as 
 are those manufactured in Havana, but are cut square and the puros are then 
 put in papers of eight, twelve, or sixteen. Many of them, when well cured, 
 are very fair cigars, yet all lack the coolness and fragrance of those made in 
 Cuba. 
 
A HARVEST OF CHARITY. 
 
 245 
 
 Among the throng was a party of exceedingly well- 
 dressed ladies, evidently belonging to the first society 
 of Mexico. They scrutinized the Texans closely, and 
 appeared at a loss to know who we were, and by what 
 singular chance we happened to be confined within the 
 dreary walls of San Lazaro. Upon our satisfying their 
 curiosity, one of the ladies immediately sent off two of 
 the servants who accompanied them, who returned in 
 about an hour with a sumptuous dinner, provided ex- 
 pressly for us. The ladies themselves did us the honour 
 of waiting upon us, bringing the different courses with 
 their own hands, and appeared to take a lively inter- 
 est in our unfortunate situation. Who they were I 
 was unable to ascertain — I never saw one of them af- 
 terward. 
 
 It was not until near dark that the immense throng 
 began to diminish in the least, and as this is the only 
 day in the year when San Lazaro is visited, all Mexico 
 appeared to have turned out. Occasionally I mixed in 
 with the crowd, and took the circuit of the room, but 
 arriving at the front door invariably found one of our 
 guard standing there to invite me back to my cot. I 
 wished to avoid, as I said before, receiving the simple 
 presents of the visiters, and for this reason kept aw r ay 
 from my cot as much as possible ; but when night came, 
 and I took an account of stock, I found that I had re- 
 ceived almost enough bread, oranges, and Cakes to load 
 a hand-cart, a hatful of cigarritos and puros, besides sev- 
 eral dollars’ worth of clacos - and medios, the smallest 
 coins of the country. These, when the kind donors 
 were out of sight, I gave to such of my companions as 
 really stood in need, who were sincerely thankful for 
 such a godsend. When night had finally set in our 
 room was again deserted except by its unfortunate in- 
 X 2 
 
246 
 
 A YANKEE DISH. 
 
 mates, and thus ended the 11th of March in San La- 
 zaro. 
 
 Two days after this great celebration, a present was 
 sent me from a Mexican lady, such as probably never 
 before was made in the country. She is the wife of an 
 American resident of Mexico, pretty, and exceedingly 
 intelligent, and is well known in the city for her great 
 vocal abilities — having frequently given concerts, and 
 appeared with much success at the Italian opera. She 
 had called upon me twice while in San Lazaro, and 
 with the customary Mexican politeness had offered me 
 anything and everything in her house. The moment a 
 person enters the dwelling of a well-bred Mexican he is 
 told that all it contains is at his disposal — is his. In 
 truth, one enjoys hospitalities in that Republic he does 
 not find elsewhere ; but should the traveller accept ev- 
 ery offer of houses, furniture, horses, guns, and jewelry 
 that is made him while journeying through Mexico, he 
 would make a very profitable speculation by a tour in 
 that country. Admire a horse upon which a Mexican 
 is seated — he is yours : remark that a ring or breastpin 
 is rare or beautiful — it is at your disposal instanter. 
 Such is Mexican etiquette — polite, but unmeaning. 
 
 The present to which I have alluded was neither 
 more nor less than a large dish of codfish and potatoes, 
 well cooked, and in quantity sufficient for a score of 
 half-starved Yankees. I happened to be “raised” far 
 enough “ Down East” myself to have a natural fondness 
 for this dish, a common and favourite one in that section 
 of the country, and nothing the fair senora could have 
 sent me would have been more acceptable. I warmed 
 and rewarmed the savoury compound, morning, noon, 
 and night, and day after day, for it lasted more than a 
 week, and during this time the regular hospital fare 
 
ANOTHER FESTAL DAY. 
 
 247 
 
 found no favour in my eyes. The husband of the lady, 
 who was a native of the seacoast of Massachusetts, was 
 doubtless a great lover of this Cape Cod luxury, and as 
 I was a paisano of his, the sehora supposed that I too 
 was fond of it. She was certainly right in her conjec- 
 tures, although I doubt whether my partiality for it 
 would have been- as great under other circumstances. 
 The farther we find, ourselves from the scenes, the cus- 
 toms, and the dinners of our childhood, the more do we 
 enjoy anything resembling them, especially the latter, 
 which we may chance to meet in our wanderings. 
 
 On Friday, the 18 th of March, one w-eek before Good 
 Friday, they had some kind of celebration in our room, 
 the object of which I did not learn. I had received a 
 copy of “ Charles O'Malley” from Mr. Mayer during 
 the day, and was Fusily engaged in its perusal ; but 
 even that laughable book could not entirely withdraw 
 my attentioh from the scenes enacted around me. 
 
 During the day a full-length picture of our Saviour, 
 nailed to the cross, was hung upon the wall at the op- 
 posite side of the room from where my cot was placed. 
 Around this picture were hung several smaller ones, 
 exhibiting the Virgin in different scenes, and also a 
 painting of St. Lazarus. These were decorated with 
 wreaths and festoons of flowers, and at the foot of all 
 was an altar having a small figure of our Saviour exe- 
 cuted in wood, and dressed in a fashion partaking more 
 of the modern than of the ancient or classic style — stat- 
 ues of the apostles, and I believe even of their great 
 Master himself, are sometimes seen in Mexico clad in 
 military uniforms, with cocked-hats upon their heads ! 
 Upon the altar I have alluded to, in addition to the fig- 
 ure, were a number of massive candlesticks containing 
 large wax candles, and the beauty of the grouping was 
 
248 
 
 A CHORUS OF LEPERS. 
 
 tastefully enhanced by flowers, oranges stuck full of 
 glittering flags and covered with gold leaf, and many 
 ingenious devices that no other people than the Mexi- 
 cans know so well how to get up and arrange. 
 
 When dark came, the female lepers, dressed in all 
 their finery, began to assemble, the numerous candles 
 were lighted, and after all were collected, the ceremo- 
 nies of the night commenced. The hospital attendants 
 with their families, the priests attached to San Lazaro, 
 with a few visiters, were present, and took part in a 
 long and discordant chant, the like of which. I am confi- 
 dent has never been heard beyond the walls of San 
 Lazaro. Every line in this wild hymn appeared to end 
 with “ Dolores /” and certainly more dolorous sounds 
 can scarcely be imagined. All the lepers joined in the 
 chorus, their harsh, croaking, and discordant voices 
 giving an effect horribly grating to the ear. They did 
 not sing through their noses, for many of them had none 
 to sing through ; but they gave utterance to screams 
 and screeches which seemed not of this earth. Their 
 appearance, too, kneeling about in groups, and with 
 their disfigured and hideous faces lit up by the glare of 
 numerous candles, combined with the strange and most 
 unnatural chorus, gave the whole affair a strong resem- 
 blance to some monstrous dream of a disturbed imagi- 
 nation — to some midnight revel of witches and hob- 
 goblins, held within a charnel-house. Had the lepers 
 been arrayed in habiliments befitting their unfortunate 
 lot, and their deportment been of a character more con- 
 sonant with their condition, the effect of the whole 
 scene would have been different ; but to see the wretch- 
 es flaunting in gaudy apparel, and many of them joy- 
 ous under the most horrible affliction which has ever 
 
A DANCE OF INCURABLES. 
 
 249 
 
 been entailed upon humanity — all this formed a picture 
 which may be imagined, but cannot be described. 
 
 The long chant over, the priests and attendants left 
 the room, and now commenced a performance which 
 was even more singular. One of the lepers brought 
 forth a harp, and a wild and strange dance was imme- 
 diately got up opposite our cots, and within ten yards 
 of us. Many of the dancers were cripples, and the 
 performances consisted of alternate singing and dan- 
 cing. Out of such materials the reader may, perhaps, 
 imagine the kind of exhibition we were compelled to 
 gaze upon. I had heard of a hornpipe in fetters — 
 here was one on crutches. The horrible orgies were 
 continued until near midnight, and as the actors in the 
 scene were well supplied with liquor, the wild revel 
 grew louder and more boisterous as the hours sped 
 along. One by one, exhausted by their efforts, they 
 dropped off, and by the time the numerous city bells had 
 tolled the hour of twelve, all again was quiet in our 
 room save the groans of some more unfortunate lazari- 
 nos, who, from pain and infirmity, had been unable to 
 join in ceremonies at once partaking of the grotesque 
 and solemn. 
 
250 
 
 MEXICAN IMPROVISATORES. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Another Dance in San Lazaro. — Mexican Improvisatores.— Accident to a 
 couple of Dancers. — Fondness of the Mexicans for Music.: — American 
 Visiters. — An agreeable Afternoon passed. — Good Friday, and a better 
 Dinner. — Fasts preferable to Feasts. — A drunken Lazarino. — Touching 
 Incident. — Visits of our Friends prohibited. — Speculations as to the differ- 
 ent Modes of escaping from San Lazaro.— Several Plans agitated. — The 
 Foreigners once more permitted to visit us. — News of the Appearance of 
 an American Fleet upon the Mexican Coast. — Advised not to attempt an 
 Escape. — A severe Epidemic in San Lazaro. — Horrible Colds and worse 
 Coughs. — Death of another Leper. — A second midnight Funeral. — Rarity 
 of the Atmosphere of Mexico.— A regular Uproar in San Lazaro. — Jose 
 Maria and his 1 inhuman and vicious Conduct. — Mexican Gamblers. — Far- 
 ther Annoyances from Jose Maria. — An early morning Visit. — Prospects of 
 Release. — Santa Anna’s Reasons for not liberating us immediately. — Gen- 
 eral Thompson at Vera Cruz. — Santa Anna anxious to shuffle out of a 
 Dilemma. — Bright Anticipations of being once more at Liberty. — More 
 American 1 Visiters.— Arrival of General Thompson in Mexico. — The An- 
 noyance of Suspense. — A File of American Papers. — Visit of General 
 Thompson to San Lazaro.— Letters from Friends.- — A Visit from Mr. Per- 
 rin.— Prospects of Liberation again clouded.- — An Opportunity of Escape 
 thrown in my Way. — Determination to improve it. — Anxiously await the 
 arrival of Assistance from without. 
 
 On the Sunday night following the strange events 
 related in my last, the lepers had another dance in the 
 hospital, accompanied, as usual, by singing. The Mex- 
 icans are great improvisatores, and can rattle off rhymes 
 at a moment’s warning. A stranger is frequently struck 
 with surprise, at a fandango, when he hears one of the 
 dancers commence a song the words of which relate 
 exclusively to himself, and which, of course, is “ got up” 
 expressly on his account. The copiousness of the Span- 
 ish language gives the greatest facility to rhymesters ; 
 but the verses of the lower orders are generally made 
 up of senseless jingle, abounding with unmeaning tropes, 
 
GENERAL TASTE FOR MUSIC. 
 
 251 
 
 absurd metaphors, or the most outrageous inconsisten- 
 cies. 
 
 One little incident occurred during this evening which 
 may be worthy of notice. While a couple were dan- 
 cing face to face, with a species of shuffling, break- 
 down step, the plank in the floor upon which they were 
 performing their j)as de deux suddenly gave way, and 
 amid screams and scrambling both disappeared in the 
 dark and gloomy cellar beneath. After some little ex- 
 ertion on the part of their friends they were extricated, 
 and fortunately neither was so much injured but that 
 they immediately chose a fresh plank and recommenced 
 their dance and song. 
 
 Out of San Lazaro I have heard singing among the 
 lower orders of Mexicans which was extremely har- 
 monious and pleasing. Without the slightest knowledge 
 of music, as a science, the common people are still fond 
 of carolling the little airs of the country in chorus, and 
 have ears exquisitely correct in singing the different 
 parts. Frequently, while upon the road, might the 
 closely-tied and strictly-guarded Mexican prisoners, or 
 volunteers, be heard giving their native songs and cho- 
 ruses with most pleasing effect. One would think that 
 these unfortunate men, after a long day’s march, would 
 be more inclined to sleep than to sing ; but such was 
 not the case. On the contrary, some dozen or fifteen 
 of them, seated upon the ground after their scanty sup- 
 per, would join in a melody which floated sweetly on 
 the evening air. The different voices, from the highest 
 falsetto to the deepest bass, were many of them of pu- 
 rest and softest quality, and blended together with a 
 harmony at once musical and soothing. Madame Cal- 
 deron de la Barca, in her entertaining work upon Mex- 
 ico, speaks frequently of the fondness of the lower 
 
252 
 
 A PLEASANT AFTERNOON. 
 
 classes for music, and of their rare gifts and great taste 
 in singing. The fair author considers music a sixth 
 sense with the Mexicans, and really it would seem that 
 such is the case. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 23d of March I was visited 
 by Mr. Mayer, accompanied by Mr. Elliot, who had 
 been chaplain to the United States exploring expedi- 
 tion, and a young American named Weed, who had 
 been travelling some two years in Mexicd and the 
 South American republics. They passed the whole 
 afternoon with me, and so far as regards myself, three 
 or four hours have seldom been whiled away more 
 agreeably. We all had many anecdotes of travel to 
 relate, most of them amusing, and night had fairly set 
 in before my friends were admonished that it was time 
 to depart. T hat quarter of the city in which San La- 
 zaro is situated is notorious as being frequented by rob- 
 bers of the worst class, fellows who would have little 
 hesitation in taking life for a few dollars ; hence there 
 is danger in traversing, it after nightfall, unless well 
 armed ; and as my visiters had not taken that precau- 
 tion on setting out, they now hurried their departure. 
 Should any of them chance to peruse this chapter, they 
 will recollect the afternoon they spent with me at San 
 Lazaro, and the merry time we passed — I never once 
 thought that I was a prisoner until I accompanied the 
 gentlemen as far as the door, and was reminded by the 
 guard stationed there that I could go no farther. Un- 
 til some time afterward I was not aware that Mr. E. 
 was a clerical gentleman, else there might have been 
 more constraint and less hilarity. 
 
 Good Friday passed in San Lazaro with no incident 
 to mark it, save that a better dinner was provided for 
 us than usual. We had fish served in different modes, 
 
REBUKE FROM A LEPER. 
 
 253 
 
 frijoles and other vegetables, all of them well cooked. 
 The fast-days we always preferred to the feast-days; 
 for in the absence of meats they invariably gave us far 
 better fare in every other respect. 
 
 Here I will relate a little incident which occurred 
 one morning in the hospital, and which occasioned me 
 not a little annoyance. Among the unfortunate lazari- 
 nos was one poor fellow, fast verging towards the 
 grave, who, for getting intoxicated and afterward quar- 
 relling, was sentenced to wear a long and heavy chain. 
 The leper had lost a part of his nose and almost all his 
 powers of speech — in fact, \yas only able to articulate a 
 few words intelligibly, and these in a tone harsh and 
 frightfully discordant. While yet stupified by liquor 
 and lost to all feeling of shame, he appeared to care 
 little for the disgrace which had been inflicted upon him, 
 but, on becoming sober, his countenance plainly deno- 
 ted that the iron entered his soul, and occasioned him 
 much distress, not only of body but of mind. 
 
 The chain was tightly riveted to his right ankle, and 
 whenever he left his cot for the cocina or kitchen, 
 where the lepers warmed their food and made their 
 chocolate, he was obliged to drag it after him. While 
 passing my cot, on the occasion I have alluded to, his 
 face wore an expression unusually lugubrious — so gro- 
 tesque yet piteous, that I had much difficulty in repress- 
 ing a smile. It would seem no easy task to read a 
 man’s countenance when it wants a nose ; but in the 
 present instance the eye had a peculiar expression that 
 was a complete key to his thoughts. He appeared to 
 divine what was running in my mind, came to a halt, 
 and turned upon me another look — a look which deno- 
 ted that he deeply felt the disgrace of wearing the gall- 
 ing chain, and which it was evident he also intended as 
 
 Vol. II. Y 
 
254 
 
 VISITS PROHIBITED. 
 
 an appeal to my sympathy. There was something so 
 ludicrous, however, although mournful, in this look — 
 something in which the comic was so strangely mixed 
 with the serious — that for the life of me I could not re- 
 sist laughing. This was too much for the leper. He 
 drew back the foot to which the chain was attached, 
 gave me a glance full of reproach for my want of feel- 
 ing, and then, by a violent kick, sent the instrument of 
 his disgrace clanking across the floor. He then gave 
 me another upbraiding glance, uttered with much effort 
 the worst oath in the Spanish language, and stalked off, 
 dragging his chain after him. Once only he turned his 
 eye towards me, as if to ascertain the effect his singular 
 movements had wrought ; and if my own face beto- 
 keaed the workings of my mind, I am confident the 
 leper was satisfied. I felt vexed with myself to think 
 that I had unnecessarily wounded the feelings of one 
 upon whom misfortune had laid her hand so heavily— 
 one whose situation called rather for pity than ridicule 
 — and I resolved never again to give him cause to re- 
 prove me for want of sensibility. The leper appeared 
 to see contrition in my countenance ; and as he after- 
 ward manifested no ill feelings towards me, I had the 
 satisfaction of knowing that I had made him sufficient 
 atonement. 
 
 From the 22d of March to the 6th of April not a per- 
 son was allowed to visit us at San Lazaro, the authori- 
 ties having taken some whim into their heads which 
 induced them to forbid our friends holding any commu- 
 nication with us. During this long interval— long at 
 least to one confined — I determined upon making an 
 escape if possible. So long as my friends were per- 
 mitted to have personal interviews with me, and daily 
 held out hopes that I should be speedily liberated, so 
 
MODES OF ESCAPE. 
 
 255 
 
 long my situation was endurable, although my better 
 judgment taught me to believe many of these hopes 
 delusive ; but now that I was incomunicado — now that 
 all intercourse with my friends was cut off through 
 some trifling caprice, my situation became irksome in 
 the extreme. 
 
 There were three ways by which an escape could 
 be effected from San Lazaro. The most feasible plan, 
 or rather the one that would require no Mexican ac- 
 complices, would be the most perilous ; but liberty was 
 then worth all the hazards I should be compelled to 
 run. The plan was this: attached to the hospital was 
 a small yard which we were allowed to visit at all 
 times during the day, and in fact until dark. At this 
 time our guard was changed, the new sergeant locking 
 the door which led to the yard for the night. The 
 yard was surrounded by a wall about twenty feet high, 
 and there was one place where the top could be attain- 
 ed, with little difficulty, by means of an out-building 
 which had partly fallen to decay. Once upon the top, 
 a person with sound limbs would run little risk in jump-- 
 ing to the ground ; but as my ankle was still tender, 
 from the effects of the severe injury I had received in 
 Texas, I was fearful about hazarding the jump. Out- 
 side the walls was the immense plain stretching to- 
 wards Guadalupe, San Lazaro being at the extreme 
 edge of the city ; yet a walk of a few steps would take 
 me to the head of a street leading directly into the 
 heart of Mexico. All I wanted was some friend to 
 smuggle a rope into my hands, which I could in some 
 way fasten to the wall, and thus let myself down in 
 safety. At dusk, and just as the new guard were about 
 locking us in, I could slip stealthily into the yard, effect 
 my escape over the wall, and then, by having a friend 
 
256 
 
 ARRIVAL OF A SQUADRON. 
 
 at the head of the first street next the hospital to con- 
 duct me, reach some safe quarters in the city. This 
 plan gave every promise of success. Should I be miss- 
 ed immediately, all would be over with me ; but with 
 five minutes’ start, I could reach an asylum secure from 
 the guai'ds. 
 
 Another plan I agitated in my own mind was to bribe 
 the guard to let me pass out during the night, and still 
 another was to induce the old major-domo of the estab- 
 lishment to leave a door, which led from the upper part 
 of our room into the street, open at night. This door 
 had an alphabetical lock, the secret of which was known 
 only to him ; had it been secured by an ordinary lock, 
 I could find means to procure false keys, in which case 
 it would afford an easy and safe means of escape. In 
 the mean time, I had had a map of the Mexican coun- 
 try in my possession for several weeks, which I had 
 studied so thoroughly that I was well acquainted with 
 the geography of every section. My intentions were, 
 instead of endeavouring to escape by way of the Atlan- 
 tic, to make at once for Acapulco or some port on the 
 Pacific, thence by some of the coasting vessels to Cal- 
 lao, where I should be able to find a vessel up for the 
 United States ; but in the midst of all these calculations 
 cii'cumstances occurred which for a time drove all 
 thoughts of effecting an escape from my mind. 
 
 On the 6th of April several foreigners obtained per- 
 mission to visit us, bringing with them a number of pa- 
 pers from the United States, and also news that a large 
 American naval force was concentrating in the Gulf, 
 and that several men-of-war were already lying off Sa- 
 crificios, near Vera Cruz. From the tone of the jour- 
 nals brought me I could plainly see that my friends 
 throughout the United States were moving with great 
 
THE INFLUENZA. 
 
 257 
 
 spirit in my behalf, and pressing upon the government 
 the necessity and justice of making an immediate and 
 imperative demand for my release. This was all I 
 wanted. I was anxious that some definite action in my 
 case should be at once resorted to, that I might know 
 what to expect, and that the annoying uncertainty 
 which no^w pressed me down might be removed.* 
 
 I mentioned the fact of my contemplating an imme- 
 diate escape from, San Lazaro to my friends. They 
 advised me to give up all thoughts of the attempt, at 
 least for the present. Should circumstances render it 
 necessary to escape, they promised me every assistance ; 
 but as now there certainly was a probability of prompt 
 action being taken in my case, they recommended me 
 to give up the idea until the result should be known. 
 With this advice, they left me to pore over the files of 
 papers they had brought for my amusement. 
 
 About this time a severe epidemic broke out in the 
 hospital, and I believe was general throughout Mexico, 
 in the form of a cold, accompanied by a distressing 
 cough. Every leper was more or less affected, and the 
 Texans, too, came in for a full share of the malady. 
 There is nothing interesting about a cough, even when 
 a person has a good set of lungs and other appointments 
 to give it full effect ; but among the unfortunate lepers, 
 many of whom were destitute of noses, and whose 
 throats were severely affected by the disease which 
 
 * While all my editorial brethren throughout the United States spoke as 
 with one voice in my behalf, during the unjust imprisonment I was subjected 
 to, it may appear invidious' to single out one as more deserving of my grati- 
 tude ; yeVI cannot, while returning my warmest thanks to all, resist men- 
 tioning the name of Mr. Bullitt, the able and warm-hearted editor of the 
 New-Orleans Bee. He, perhaps, knew more of my intentions on first start- 
 ing for Texas and Mexico, was better enabled to judge of the injustice of im- 
 prisoning and detaining me, than any of his compeers, and as a consequence 
 he was more strenuous and untiring in his endeavours to procure my release, 
 
 Y 2 
 
258 
 
 DEATH OF ANOTHER LEPER. 
 
 was fast hurrying them to the grave, the strangling 
 noises uttered were of a nature the most horrible. 
 Night after night I was kept awake by sounds the most 
 distressing, the poor fellows apparently in strong con- 
 vulsions during the paroxysms, and some one of them 
 appearing at all times ready to commence the moment 
 another would obtain a short relief. In this way a con- 
 tinual din and harassing clamour were kept up, and the 
 nights we now spent in San Lazaro were among the 
 most annoying of all our imprisonment. 
 
 From the 6th to the 14th of April our time passed 
 heavily and drearily." One poor leper died in our room 
 during this interval, a dreadful cough cutting short days 
 to which his deplorable malady would inevitably have 
 soon put an end. Whether he had more money or in- 
 fluence than some of the unfortunates, who had here 
 ended the journey of life before him, I know not ; but 
 the night ceremonies on the occasion were upon a scale 
 more grand and imposing than were those which took 
 place at the death of any other leper who died during 
 my imprisonment in the hospital. The procession of 
 priests and attendants was larger, there were more can- 
 dles burning, and they appeared to shed even a more 
 lurid glare upon the wan and gloomy countenances of 
 the lepers in the farther parts of the room. At every 
 interval when the paroxysms of coughing left them, the 
 lepers muttered prayers for the repose of their depart- 
 ed comrade, and smote their breasts violently, as if 
 in penance for their own unconfessed transgressions. 
 Amid low, murmured prayers, the burning of incense, 
 and the monotonous ringing of a bell, the procession left 
 our room, and again all was gloom ; a dismal quiet 
 reigned, broken only by the frightful coughs which were 
 heard on every side — the sufferers apparently half 
 
259 
 
 t. iut-fcJ a *'/*"*- 1 
 
 A BRUTAL CORPORAL. 
 
 strangled with the paroxysms. Thereds a rarity in the 
 atmosphere of Mexico, at certain seasons, which makes 
 respiration difficult ; and in addition to a slight cough 
 which I had at the time, I suffered from a difficulty of 
 breathing closely allied to the asthma, which gave me 
 much annoyance. 
 
 During the afternoon and evening of the 14th of 
 April there was a grand uproar in our room, in which 
 one of our guard received a severe flogging from the 
 corporal. The duty of the soldier on guard was to 
 walk, with his musket at a shoulder, directly in front of 
 our cots, both day and night. On the afternoon I refer 
 to, a gambling leper, on the opposite side of the room, 
 had opened a game of monte upon his cot, and as the 
 .guard had that day been paid off, he found ready cus- 
 tomers and patrons in every one of them. A knot of 
 soldiers and lepers were congregated around him du- 
 ring the afternoon, and among them the corporal of 
 our guard had taken a hand and finally lost, not only 
 his own pay, but that of such of his men as were willing 
 to lend him. 
 
 A more ill-natured, morose, and vicious fellow than 
 this corpora] I had not met during all the intercourse I 
 was forced to hold with the soldiery of Mexico. His 
 features and expression proclaimed him a petty tyrant 
 of the worst description ; for there was a lurking malice 
 in his eye, a sinister expression in his mahogany-colour- 
 ed countenance, that as plainly denoted his character as 
 a sign over a grocer’s door tells the passers-by that 
 sugar or coffee may be purchased within. The fellow 
 took every occasion to annoy us — would prevent our 
 friends from entering our room when they called — de- 
 prived us of every liberty in his power, and, in short, 
 made himself odious to all. His name was Jose Maria | 
 
\ • \» 
 
 • * ' V • V' 
 
 260 A SOLDIER BEATEN. 
 
 and here I would remark that Jose Maria is the John 
 Smith of Mexico. Call the name in almost any crowd 
 you may meet, you will find Jose Marias ready to re- 
 spond. 
 
 When the wretch had lost his own money, and could 
 borrow no more, he appeared to lose all command of 
 his bad passionsj One of our party, against whom lie 
 had some ill will, he drove to his bed, and soon after 
 ordered his own men to leave the gambling cot of 
 the leper, and by this means “ blocked the game but 
 no sooner had he left the room for a few moments than 
 the cards were again produced, and the game resumed. 
 On returning, and finding his men once more engaged, 
 he drew the stick which all the corporals in Mexico 
 carry, and belaboured them most unmercifully— and all 
 to gratify his own malicious passions. This closed the 
 game a second time, but no sooner was his back turned 
 than it was again recommenced. One of his men had 
 won, by three or four successful bets, some ten or fif- 
 teen dollars, all of which he had staked on the turn of 
 a single card. The game of monte closely resembles 
 faro, and the leper had hardly commenced dealing be- 
 fore Jose Maria again made his appearance. Walking 
 stealthily to the cot, the wretch raised his stick, and 
 uttered a horrible oath. The poor soldier who had 
 staked his all saw the impending blow, but, Mexican- 
 like, his love of the game overcame all fears of the pain 
 and disgrace of a beating, and he continued to watch 
 the cards as the leper slowly turned them over, one by 
 one. Jose Maria now struck him a violent blow upon 
 the back. He shrugged his shoulders, but still watch- 
 ed the game with as much intentness as ever. Another 
 and another blow followed in quick succession, and still 
 the soldier made no other motion than a slight flinching 
 
PASSION FOR GAMING. 
 
 261 
 
 as the stick fell heavily upon his head or back. The 
 ungovernable passion of the corporal appeared to gain 
 fresh strength from the stoical indifference of the sol- 
 dier, and he now belaboured the poor fellow with blows 
 that cut to the very quick ; but still he did not move. 
 His all depended upon the turn of a card, and neither 
 blows nor threats could drive him from his watch of 
 the game. An unlucky turn at length decided the bet 
 against him, and now for the first time he turned his 
 head. It was only to give a look of stern defiance at 
 his cruel oppressor, for he did not dare strike back, 
 and then coolly to walk off. • Exhausted with his ef- 
 forts, and pale from exertion and passion, Jose Maria 
 also left the spot, and quiet was once more restored. 
 
 I have related this anecdote to show how deep-seat- 
 ed is the passion for gaming in Mexico. From the le- 
 pero* to the highest dignitary — men and women — all, 
 or nearly all, are alike afflicted with the passion. They 
 manifest, too, the greatest indifference to loss, and in- 
 stances are daily occurring where a man will lose his 
 hat, shoes, blanket, and even the very shirt from his 
 back, with a coolness and nonchalance which in any 
 other situation would be highly commendable. He 
 fears no pain or disgrace — starvation he looks upon 
 with perfect indifference — in short, so strong and deep- 
 seated is his passion for any game of chance, that the 
 Mexican will stake a month’s food in advance upon the 
 single turn of a card, even were he to know that star- 
 vation would be the inevitable result of an unlucky 
 deal. That there are many gentlemen in Mexico who 
 do not gamble I have little doubt ; but as a genera] rule, 
 all classes are more or less addicted to games of chance. 
 
 * The Upero is the loafer of Mexico, not one afflicted with leprosy, as 
 many of my readers may imagine. The latter are called lazarinos. 
 
262 
 
 HOPE OF A SPEEDY RELEASE. 
 
 For hours after the strange scene at the cot of the 
 gambling leper sleep did not visit my eyelids. A con- 
 tinued succession of horrid sounds from the lepers 
 around me — sounds intended for coughs, but which re- 
 sembled more the last rattling struggles of dying men — 
 would have prevented sleep ; but to these were added 
 an extreme difficulty of respiration on my own part, 
 and the unceasing annoyances of Jose Maria. The 
 wretch had seen that we took part in the general dis- 
 satisfaction manifested at his inhuman conduct, and 
 sought his revenge by counting us every half hour un- 
 til after midnight. Not content with simply examining 
 each cot closely, he held a lantern directly in our faces, 
 so that the light could not but awaken us even had we 
 been ever so much disposed to sleep. It was not until 
 he himself became completely weary with too much 
 watching that he ceased his annoying attentions, after 
 which I was enabled to fall into a doze. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning, even before the 
 sun had risen, I was awakened by a hearty shake of 
 my shoulders. On opening my eyes, I was not a little 
 astonished on seeing Mr. Mayer sitting by the side of 
 me on my narrow cot. The unusual hour, and the 
 fact that his face wore an expression of much satisfac- 
 tion, convinced me that he was the bearer of glad ti- 
 dings, and with not a little curiosity I inquired of him 
 the news. 
 
 Mr. M, informed me that there was now every pros- 
 pect of my speedy liberation, together with five or six 
 of the other prisoners who had claimed American pro- 
 tection. He farther stated that Mr. Ellis had had an 
 interview with Santa Anna, at which the latter mani- 
 fested a disposition to give an order for our release so 
 soon as certain movements on the part of the American 
 
SANTA ANNA ! S MOTIVES. 
 
 263 
 
 government, and some of its citizens, could be satisfac- 
 torily explained. Among these, Santa Anna referred 
 to the fact that a number of United States men-of-war 
 had either anchored or been seen off Sacrificios, and to 
 a rumour that young Frank Combs had entered Texas 
 from the United States with a body of mem whose in- 
 tention was to invade the Mexican territory. He far- 
 ther mentioned the case of young Spencer, whose move- 
 ments in New-Orleans and Texas at that time were of 
 a suspicious nature, and that there might be some de- 
 sign against Mexieo at the bottom of them. 
 
 That all these circumstances could be so satisfacto- 
 rily explained as in no way to compromise the dignity 
 of either Mexico or the United States, Mr. Mayer ex- 
 pressed himself confident, and at the same time con- 
 gratulated me upon the prospect of once more regain- 
 ing that liberty of which I had now been deprived for 
 seven months. After informing me, in addition, that 
 General Waddy Thompson, the new minister to Mexi- 
 co, had arrived at Vera Cruz, and was then on the 
 road to the capital, and promising to call upon me the 
 next day, Air. AI. left San Lazaro. 
 
 That I was not a little elated by this favourable turn 
 in my affairs may be readily imagined. I had all along 
 believed that Santa Anna would keep me in confine- 
 ment so long as he could find any pretext for such a 
 course ; but that the moment he. found he could no long- 
 er detain me, he would find some excuse for granting 
 my release. He now saw that the subject of our im- 
 prisonment had excited a lively interest in the United 
 States ; that meetings were held at different points, hav- 
 ing for their object a call upon the government to de- 
 mand the immediate and unconditional release of such 
 Americans as were entitled to its protection ; and that 
 
264 
 
 SANTA ANNA’S CUNNING. 
 
 several of the state legislative assemblies had passed 
 strong resolutions to that effect — resolutions which must, 
 sooner or later, drive the naturally tardy General Gov 
 ernment into other measures than mere argument in 
 order to secure the liberation of its citizens. He more- 
 over was aware that General Thompson, a gentleman 
 whose character for promptness and decision was well 
 known, Was now on his way to Mexico as the accred- 
 ited minister of the United States, and he naturally 
 enough supposed, from the tone of the public journals, 
 that he must bring with him stronger instructions in re- 
 lation to our release than any which had been sent to 
 Mr. Ellis. With all these circumstances staring him in 
 the face, it was plain enough that Santa Anna was dis- 
 posed to shuffle out of a dilemma in which he found 
 himself involved ; and to do it with as good a grace 
 as possible, and to preserve the dignity of the great 
 Mexican nation spotless, he now concluded to get rid of 
 us on the best terms he could make. Hence his artful ruse 
 to have the facts I have alluded to above — those in re- 
 lation to the squadron, young Combs, and Spencer — ac- 
 counted for, knowing all the while that there was real- 
 ly nothing in them to arouse the suspicions of his gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 But even should Santa Anna refuse to grant my re- 
 lease, I still had the satisfaction of knowing that my in- 
 dividual case would be definitely acted upon — that I 
 must shortly know my fate, whatever it might be. 
 Should the Mexican government still refuse to give me 
 up, I had made every arrangement to effect an escape. 
 In doing this, I had studiously avoided implicating any 
 member of the United States legation, but had found 
 friends among the foreigners who promised to assist me 
 in any way. Money, that great talisman, I had at my 
 
ARRIVAL OF GENERAL THOMPSON. 
 
 265 
 
 command to an amount that would open any prison- 
 door in Mexico ; and in addition to this, the escape over 
 the wall, a mode I have previously described, was open 
 so long as I remained in San Lazaro. Under all these 
 encouraging circumstances, it will be imagined that my 
 spirits were not a little raised, and that my mind was 
 relieved of many apprehensions by the bright anticipa- 
 tions of once more regaining my liberty, either through 
 the influence of my government or by my own individ- 
 ual exertions. 
 
 It was on Friday, the 15th of April, that Mr. Mayer 
 called upon me with the good news just related. Du- 
 ring the day I received no other visits, but on the after- 
 noon of the next Mr, M. again called, and this time in 
 company with two or three American citizens. He 
 said there had been no farther action in relation to my 
 release, but that there probably would be that evening, 
 and that I should be made acquainted with the result 
 immediately. 
 
 From the Americans I learned that General Thomp- 
 son was expected that evening in the stage from Vera 
 Cruz, and that a large party of them had come out as 
 far as San Lazaro, by which the stage passed, to meet 
 and escort him into the city. While we were speak- 
 ing of the circumstance, the distant rumbling of wheels 
 was heard. My friends immediately retired, but not 
 until they had promised to visit me again before dark. 
 
 Shortly after their departure I could plainly hear 
 the stage, in which was the new minister with his suite, 
 rattling by the hospital, and making its way towards 
 the centre of the city. To me there was something 
 unusually enlivening in the sounds, for I well knew 
 that I was now soon to be relieved of the annoying 
 suspense which had long weighed upon me like an in- 
 
 Vol. II.— Z 
 
266 
 
 PAPERS FROM HOME. 
 
 cubus. There are few men who have had the oppor- 
 tunity of feeling the harassing annoyance of suspense 
 to the degree I had experienced for the last two months. 
 Imprisoned unjustly in one of the vilest holes in Chris- 
 tendom — surrounded by loathsome wretches, whose 
 very aspect was enough to drive one almost to despe- 
 ration — shut out completely from the world — taunted 
 almost daily by my Texan comrades with invidious 
 comparisons between my own government and that of 
 Great Britain in looking after the rights of their sub- 
 jects, and half convinced, as I was, that the former 
 was not moving with that promptness the case de- 
 manded, I was also suffering under an indisposition 
 which was far from inconsiderable ; and when to all 
 this is added the circumstance that during much of 
 this period I had little hope of a change, except such 
 change as is found in chains and labour, the reader 
 may easily imagine the irksomeness of my situation. 
 But now the time had arrived when the dark curtain 
 of suspense was to be raised — a suspense so torturing 
 that a sentence to ten years’ imprisonment would have 
 been almost a relief — now my position was about to be 
 defined in some way, and I certainly felt an elevation 
 of spirits I had been a stranger to for months. 
 
 At sunset two of my friends returned, bringing me a 
 large file of papers, and word from General Thompson 
 that he would visit me early the next morning. I spent 
 hours in poring over the papers from different quarters 
 of the United States, and absolutely forgot my troubles 
 as I read the many articles I found in them relating to 
 my own case, and §aw the warm interest taken in my 
 behalf by my editorial brethren throughout the country. 
 
 Shortly after breakfast the next morning I was visit- 
 ed in San Lazaro by General Thompson himself. I 
 
GENERAL THOMPSON’S PROMISES. 267 
 
 was reading when he entered, seated with my feet rest- 
 ing against a large medicine-chest in the centre of the 
 room. On seeing him at the door, I advanced to meet 
 him. He inquired the nature of the diseases in the hos- 
 pital, and on my informing him that we had none other 
 than leprosy and small-pox, he obtained, through the 
 assistance of Mr. Mayer, permission for me to walk 
 with him as far as the front door of the building, where 
 there were several benches or seats. Accompanying 
 General T. were Lieutenant Faunce, of our revenue 
 service, and Messrs. Coolidge of Boston, and Perrin of 
 New-Orleans. These gentlemen brought me a large 
 package of letters from my friends, and expressed the 
 greatest confidence that I should return with them to 
 the United States. 
 
 General Thompson asked me every particular in rela- 
 tion to my arrest and subsequent imprisonment — prom- 
 ised to exert himself to the utmost in procuring my uncon- 
 ditional release — and moreover said that he would en- 
 deavour, at least, to obtain an order for my removal to 
 other and better quarters forthwith. If possible, he in- 
 tended to procure my release upon parole until my case 
 could be definitely settled one way or the other, pledg- 
 ing himself to give me up whenever the Mexican gov- 
 ernment might call for me. After a little farther con- 
 versation the new minister and his party took their 
 leave. 
 
 With spirits elated I returned to my gloomy quar- 
 ters, passing much of the day in perusing and reperu- 
 sing the letters from my friends. There is something 
 at all times soothing and grateful to the feelings in re- 
 ceiving one of these written tokens of attachment — 
 something which convinces that you are not forgotten — 
 that you still hold a place in the memory of those en- 
 
268 
 
 HOPES DASHED AGAIN. 
 
 dearcd to you by ties of friendship ; but bow doubly 
 grateful to me were these kind evidences of regard — 
 the first I had received for nearly a year. They car- 
 ried me back to other and happier days — to scenes I 
 had strong hopes of soon visiting — and I almost fancied 
 myself free as I scanned their pages. But alas ! how 
 often is the cup of happiness dashed from our lips when 
 we have it within our very grasp. Thirty-six hours 
 after I was indulging in these pleasing anticipations, 
 and while bright hope was opening to me a prospect of 
 the most flattering nature, I was plunged into the very 
 lowest depths of uncertainty — I may almost say of 
 despair. 
 
 On the morning of the 18th of April, the day after 
 General Thompson’s visit, Mr. Perrin called upon me 
 at San Lazaro. From his conversation, although he 
 endeavoured to offer me hope, I could plainly enough 
 see that the chances of attaining my liberty were not 
 as favourable as they had been some two or three days 
 before. The partial promise to release me, given to 
 Mr. Ellis by Santa Anna on the 14th, the latter had 
 probably found some means to evade entirely or to de- 
 fer, and I was confident he would temporize to an ex- 
 tent which no other diplomacy than Mexican can ever 
 hope to equal. In that particular branch of diplomatic 
 science — deferring or “ putting oft’” the main question 
 — the Mexicans excel even the Chinese. 
 
 On leaving me, Mr. Perrin advised that I should 
 make no attempt to escape, at least until General 
 Thompson had been duly received as the accredited 
 minister of the United States ; but a circumstance which 
 occurred soon after he left the hospital determined me 
 to make the attempt at once. While walking in the 
 little yard which we were allowed to visit during the 
 
PREPARATION FOR ESCAPE. 
 
 269 
 
 day, I noticed, standing against the wall, a long pole, 
 strong enough to bear my weight, and at equal distan- 
 ces, and about one yard apart, were placed pegs. For 
 what use this pole was originally intended I am at a 
 loss to conjecture ; at the time I looked upon it as a 
 special interposition, as by means of it I could easily 
 enough climb to the top of the wall, and then, after 
 dragging it over, let myself down, without danger, on 
 the other side. Watching an opportunity when I sup- 
 posed no one was observing me, I removed the pole to 
 one of the corners of the yard, and then returned to my 
 quarters in the hospital. I am confident not one of the 
 guard observed my movements, as on entering the hos- 
 pital I found them all engaged in conversation with the 
 inmates, where they could not possibly have seen me. 
 
 The fact of my having either seen or moved the pole 
 I did not disclose to any one, not even my friends. My 
 plan was, in case any of the foreigners called upon me 
 in the afternoon, to divulge the circumstances I have 
 mentioned to some one of them who knew the city well, 
 and ask for his assistance in enabling me to escape. 
 All I wished him to do was simply to name either the 
 first or second street, running from San Lazaro, that 
 led directly into the city, and place himself at the head 
 of it at dark, dressed in such a manner that I might 
 easily distinguish him. I then intended to risk the dan- 
 ger of being observed while clambering over the wall. 
 The attempt was to be made at twilight, and just before 
 the time at which the door leading to the yard was gen- 
 erally locked for the night. 
 
 In order to be every way in readiness, I put all my 
 money and valuables in my pockets, intending to leave 
 my clothing, books, &c., to any one who might take 
 them. All these arrangements made, I now awaited, 
 
 Z 2 
 
270 
 
 HOURS OF EXPECTATION, 
 
 with not a little anxiety, the arrival of some one of my 
 friends, to whom I might confide my secret and upon 
 whose assistance I might depend. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Hours of Expectation. — One of the Santiago Prisoners brought to San La- 
 zaro, sick with the Small-pox. — Disappointed Hopes. — Arrival of a Guard 
 of Soldiers at San Lazaro. — Mysterious Conduct of the Commander. — 
 Ordered to prepare for Departure. — A vile Litter produced. — Refusal to 
 enter it. — Leave San Lazaro. — “Farewells” of the Texans and “Adios” 
 of the Lepers. — Gloomy and mysterious night March.— Interior of the City 
 of Mexico. — Stared at by the Populace. — A Coach ordered. — Misery likes 
 Company. — Dogs in the Outskirts of Mexico. — Arrive at our Destination. 
 — Farther Uncertainty. — Ushered into the Presence of Women. — The 
 Mystery unravelled. — Find myself in Santiago, and among Friends. — Or- 
 dered to make Choice of a Partner in Chains. — Select Major Bennett. — 
 First Appearance in Fetters.— Congratulations of my Friends on the Oc- 
 casion. — -Major Bennett quotes Scripture again. — Determination to escape. 
 — Santa Anna’s Motives in the Removal to San Lazaro. — Action of the 
 Mexican and United States Governments in relation to the American Pris- 
 oners. — Consider the Chances of Liberation as hopeless as ever. — Strange 
 Conduct of Santa Anna. — No Difficulty in shaking off the Irons. — The 
 “ Secrets of our Prison-house.” — Character of the old Commandante of 
 Santiago. — Texan Tricks upon a Mexican Blacksmith. — The Blacksmith 
 and Santa Anna in Converse. — Description of Santiago, and Chances of 
 an Escape. — The Texans going out to labour in the Streets. — More Play 
 than Work. 
 
 The hours after dinner dragged heavily along, but 
 no one called to whom I could make known my con- 
 templated escape. About the middle of the afternoon 
 a young man named Bowen, one of Colonel Cooke’s 
 party, was brought to San Lazaro from Santiago, very 
 ill with the small-pox. He was delirious, giving inco- 
 herent answers to the different questions asked him. 
 
 Night finally set in, yet not a single foreigner made 
 
A MYSTERIOUS MOVEMENT. 
 
 271 
 
 his appearance. This was the more remarkable, as 
 several of them had promised to call upon me that af- 
 ternoon. There appeared to be a strange fatality in 
 the circumstance, that at the very time when I most 
 wanted to see the face of a friend, no one came ; but 
 there was no help for it, and I saw the door locked 
 with a heart made heavy by disappointment. The 
 only consolation I had was, that the same opportunity 
 to escape would probably be open on the ensuing day, 
 and with this expectation I retired to my cot and soon 
 fell asleep. 
 
 About half past nine o’clock at night I was awakened 
 by a heavy tramp, as of men marching past me. On 
 opening my eyes, I saw eight or ten soldiers paraded 
 directly in front of my cot, with shouldered muskets. 
 Not a little astonished at a circumstance so unusual, I 
 was about to inquire the cause, when the officer in com- 
 mand of the party, after asking my name, said I must 
 immediately prepare to leave San Lazaro. 
 
 I asked him whither I was to be taken, but he gave 
 me no answer. There was something mysterious in 
 the air of this man that caused me much uneasiness, but 
 I was completely in his power and could only obey his 
 commands. While I was hastily slipping on my clothes, 
 and packing my books and other articles in a carpet 
 bag, the lepers congregated about me with not a little 
 astonishment depicted in their dismal countenances. I 
 had formed a kind of distant intimacy with many of the 
 unfortunate wretches, and their surprise was equal to 
 my own on learning that “ Don Jorge,” as they called 
 me, was about to be taken from San Lazaro under so 
 strong a guard, and at an hour so strange and unsea- 
 sonable. I thought of my dealings with the pole, and 
 for a moment supposed that this unusual movement 
 
272 
 
 REMOVAL, FROM SAN LAZARO. 
 
 might be caused by my having been discovered in the 
 act ; but of this I was uncertain. 
 
 After a few hasty preparations, I told the officer I 
 was ready to accompany him ; but first I asked him if 
 he would allow me to ride. He immediately ordered 
 his men to bring in a litter, and pointing to it, told me 
 I could ride in that. The litter had a vile, filthy blan- 
 ket in it, and had evidently been used to transport some 
 worthless or wounded lepero to a hospital or dungeon ; 
 but what gave me more uneasiness than ail were the 
 words “ Carcel de Ciudad ” — city prison — painted upon 
 its sides. That I was to be taken to some vile hole, 
 and thrown alone among the most worthless and aban- 
 doned wretches, was now evident enough, and I could 
 scarcely restrain a shudder at the thought of a fate so 
 horrible. 
 
 Again I asked the officer if he would send one of his 
 men for a coach, telling him that I had money to pay 
 for it, and that one of my ankles was so weak that I 
 was fearful, from not having taken much exercise of 
 late, of its failure if I had far to walk. He only an- 
 swered me by pointing to the litter. Determined, un- 
 der no circumstances, to ride or be carried in a convey- 
 ance so vile, I told him I would endeavour to walk. 
 My mattress and blankets, which were my own prop- 
 erty, together with the carpet bag, were now thrown 
 into the litter, the guard formed on either side of me* 
 and amid the “ adios” of the poor lepers, and the kind 
 “ farewells” of my companions, I was escorted out of 
 San Lazaro. I turned one look, as I passed the thresh- 
 old, at the companions of my imprisonment, but not a 
 gleam of hope’s sunshine could I discover in their sor- 
 rowful countenances. In moments of sudden trial or 
 peril, how much of the mind’s workings, how much of 
 
A NIGHT MARCH. 
 
 273 
 
 the inward emotions, can be read while hastily scanning 
 the faces of those around us. I keenly scrutinized the 
 features of the crowd gathered at the door to see my 
 departure — commiseration, pity, all the kindlier feelings 
 of man’s nature were there, but not one glimmering of 
 assurance as to the fate that awaited me could I discov- 
 er, no key to unlock the mystery in which the move- 
 ments of my guard were hidden. With a heavy heart 
 I bade the inmates of San Lazaro farewell, and I doubt 
 whether one of them, either Mexican or Texan, expect- 
 ed ever to see me again. 
 
 On reaching the front door of the hospital, the officer 
 in command ordered a halt. He then took me into the 
 small office connected with the establishment, and gave 
 the major-domo a receipt to the effect that I had been 
 regularly delivered into his hands. I once more re- 
 quested him to send one of the guard for a coach — a 
 request which he only answered by pointing to the litter. 
 
 Outside the hospital, the officer now formed his men, 
 some five or six on either side of me, a trumpeter in the 
 rear, and himself in front. In this order we marched 
 from San Lazaro, the course taken leading directly to- 
 wards the heart of the city. For the first four or five 
 blocks my ankle gave me little or no pain, the uncer- 
 tainty which shrouded my destination probably draw- 
 ing my attention from all personal inconvenience ; but 
 as we entered the better portion of the city, and were 
 leaving the low and miserable habitations which form 
 the outskirts of Mexico, my ankle began to give way 
 under the unwonted exercise. 
 
 Two or three times I asked the soldiers who were 
 marching next me whither we were going : the eternal 
 “ quien sabe ?” was the only answer. 
 
 We had nov^ proceeded some half or three quarters 
 
274 
 
 MYSTERY INCREASING. 
 
 of a mile on our mysterious journey, and had entered 
 the better part of the city, when my ankle began to 
 pain me excessively. I stopped for a moment, and in 
 eloquent bad Spanish told the Mexican officer my sit- 
 uation. He shrugged his shoulders, and still pointed to 
 the filthy litter, which was borne by two of his men. 
 Had my ankle been perfectly sound at this time, such 
 were my feelings, 1 should most certainly have broken 
 through the guard which surrounded me, and put the 
 chance of an escape upon a run, regardless of their 
 muskets. As it was, I could but hobble along, and sub- 
 mit to being guarded, I knew not whither. 
 
 As we approached the centre of the city, although it 
 was now T almost eleven o’clock at night, we met num- 
 bers passing. My dress plainly denoted that I was no 
 countryman of theirs, for I wore a blanket coat I had 
 purchased of an American at Chihuahua, and an Amer- 
 ican hat. The sight of a foreigner thus attired, and 
 thus strongly guarded through the streets at an hour so 
 unseasonable, excited not a little curiosity in the passers- 
 by, and they crowded under the lamps and peered in- 
 quisitively in my face. 
 
 We passed several churches, and once or twice we 
 were halted for a few moments directly in front of 
 large gloomy edifices, which I could not but think were 
 prison-houses. I was not allowed to march upon the 
 sidewalk, but was taken directly along the middle of 
 the streets, where the walking was rough and uneven, 
 and where my ankle was liable to be strained or in- 
 jured at every step. Driven at length almost to despe- 
 ration, not only by pain, but by the uncertainty with 
 which I was surrounded, I forced myself between two 
 of the soldiers who guarded me, and sat down upon the 
 sidewalk directly in front of a large church. The offi- 
 
TAKEN OUT OF THE CITY. 
 
 275 
 
 cer ordered me to rise and continue the march, but I 
 told him I could walk no farther. 
 
 Anxious, probably, to be relieved as soon as possible 
 of his charge, the officer now consented to send one of 
 his soldiers for a coach ; and being near one of the 
 great coach-stands of the city, he soon returned with 
 the conveyance I was so much in need of. I imme- 
 diately entered the heavy and clumsy vehicle, the offi- 
 cer following and seating himself by my side. The 
 soldiers were then formed on either side, and at a 
 brisk pace the strange night march was resumed. 
 
 On several occasions the coach stopped for a mo- 
 ment, probably to give the guard rest, and each time I 
 scanned the buildings on either side with an eager gaze, 
 expecting to see some dismal prison. Had there been 
 a single companion with me, for misery does like com- 
 pany, I should not have been so oppressed by the sickly 
 feelings I experienced ; but I was alone, and could only 
 brood over my singular and annoying situation in si- 
 lence. 
 
 A half-hour’s ride carried us almost entirely through 
 the city, and after leaving the poorer habitations of the 
 suburbs, we emerged into the open country. Passing 
 now and then a small house, from which some score of 
 noisy dogs would jump and bark at us, the coach final- 
 ly drew up in front of a large and gloomy establish- 
 ment, walled in on two of its sides, where a halt was 
 called. It was now near midnight. I asked the offi- 
 cer what building it was ; but he was stepping from the 
 coach at the time, and either did not hear or did not 
 heed my question. 
 
 I had hardly left the coach before I heard the start- 
 ling “ centinela alerta /” from a soldier directly over 
 my head. The cry was taken up by another in a dif- 
 
276 
 
 ARRIVAL AT A PRISON. 
 
 ferent part of the building, then by another, until at 
 length I could but faintly hear the long-drawn-out and 
 to me grating sounds feebly echoed and re-echoed from 
 the more distant walls of the building. Around the 
 passage-way which led to the establishment, groups of 
 soldiers, rolled up in their cloaks and blankets, were ly- 
 ing asleep, and a regular guard was marching back- 
 ward and forward in the entrance. I was soon taken, 
 still strongly guarded, through the main door of en- 
 trance. Once Within, I found a large yard, surrounded 
 on all sides by buildings, and by the dim light of a lamp 
 I could plainly read the word castigo — punishment — 
 over a strong and gloomy door. In this apartment, I 
 at once thought I should find a resting-place ; but who 
 were to be my companions, or what the cause of my 
 imprisonment, I could not imagine. 
 
 Not a little overjoyed was I when the guard, who 
 even to this time was stationed on either side of me, 
 marched by this dreadful room and led me up a flight 
 of stone steps on the other side of the yard. We now 
 groped our way along a dark passage, the floor of stone, 
 and every footfall sending up a doleful echo. Once, by 
 the dim light of a distant lantern, I saw the gloomy 
 figures of two or three monks, slowly wending their 
 way towards their silent cloister, and again all was 
 darkness. 
 
 Groping his way a few steps in advance of us, the 
 officer who had me in charge at length reached a small 
 door, at which he knocked. A female voice within 
 asked him for the countersign. He gave it, the door 
 slowly opened, and I was ushered into a small but neat- 
 ly-furnished apartment, having a guitar and several 
 pieces of music scattered about, while a sideboard and 
 other articles of furniture graced the sides of the room. 
 
THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 
 
 277 
 
 Two females were present — one a lady-like woman 
 some thirty-five years of age, the other a pretty girl of 
 not more than sixteen, and both were undressed as if 
 just from bed. After they had politely beckoned me to 
 a chair, I asked the elder for some water, which she 
 gave me after inquiring whether I would not prefer a 
 glass of wine. The kindness of these women gave me 
 hope, which was soon banished, however, by the en- 
 trance, from another room, of an elderly and grim-vis- 
 aged officer, apparently some sixty years of age. He 
 had a morose scowl upon his face, and his upper lip 
 was decked with a pair of mustaches which might have 
 been cut from a shoe-brush. 
 
 He asked my name, entered it in a book which was 
 lying upon the table, and after telling the officer who 
 had charge of me that all was right, ordered him, with 
 a cold, business-like air, to march off and lock me up. 
 By a different passage I was now taken to the yard be- 
 low, and halted in front of a large and strong door. A 
 key was applied to the lock, and wffiile they were slow- 
 ly turning it I could plainly hear the clanking of chains 
 and the indistinct hum of voices within. This was the 
 most trying moment of all, for I was profoundly igno- 
 rant alike of the place and of the companions I was to 
 be associated with. 
 
 The door was at length opened. A loud shout arose 
 as I entered the room, and my name was called by fifty 
 voices in a breath. Never can I forget my own feel- 
 ings when, with spirits but a few moments before de- 
 pressed by a suspense the most harrowing, I now found 
 myself suddenly and most unexpectedly in Santiago, 
 greeted by Colonel Cooke, Dr. Brenham, Captain Sut- 
 ton, and the friends whom I had not seen for seven 
 
 Vol. II. — A A 
 
278 
 
 THE AUTHOR IN CHAINS. 
 
 months. The prospect of chains and servitude was as 
 nothing — I was among my old companions. 
 
 By far the greater number of the prisoners were 
 asleep when I entered the room ; yet there were some 
 twenty still awake, engaged at cards upon the stone 
 floor, or reading by the dim light of Mexican candles. 
 After half an hour’s conversation with my friends, I 
 spread my cot among them — a refreshing sleep follow- 
 ing a day replete with excitement. 
 
 Immediately after breakfast the next morning, the 
 Mexican who had charge of the Texan chain gang 
 politely requested me to choose a partner from among 
 the prisoners — some one to assist me in carrying the 
 heavy fetters which were now to decorate one of my 
 ankles for the first time. The recollection of the fa- 
 vourable opportunity I had to escape from San Lazaro 
 the day before now flashed across my mind, and I deep- 
 ly regretted that fate had prevented me from improving 
 it ; but as this was no time to speculate long on the 
 past, or indulge in idle regrets, I commenced a survey 
 of my fellow-prisoners with the intention of making a 
 choice. It fell upon the veteran Major Bennett, of 
 scripture-quoting memory. One end of his chain was 
 vacant, owing to the sickness of his comrade at the 
 time ; but what induced me more particularly to make 
 choice of him, was a sly wink he gave me, and a side 
 speech to the effect that he had a way of ridding him- 
 self of the fetters which few of the Texans possessed. 
 
 We were now conducted to a small room, adjoining 
 that in which the prisoners were locked up for the 
 night. Here an anvil had been placed for the business, 
 and the room was decorated with rings, rivets, chains, 
 and other instruments of disgrace. I slipped a dollar 
 into the hands of the Mexican whose duty it was to 
 
JESTING CONGRATULATIONS. 
 
 279 
 
 fasten the trinkets upon me. This I had been advised 
 to do by my friends, as it would induce the fellow, 
 either to give me a ring so large that I could slip it off, 
 or so to fasten the rivet that I could remove it with but 
 little difficulty. The dollar had the desired effect, for 
 the Mexican selected a ring which I could easily remove 
 after taking off my boot. 
 
 With as good a grace as I could assume — for this 
 chaining a man excites any feelings but those of a pleas- 
 ant nature — I now submitted to the operation. The 
 chain was some eight feet in length, extremely heavy, 
 and of the class used to draw logs with oxen — in other 
 words, a log chain. After cutting the straps from a 
 pair of fashionable, French pantaloons, which I had 
 purchased at Zacatecas, I placed my foot upon the an- 
 vil, and the Mexican, although well knowing that I 
 could shake myself free with ease, hammered away and 
 made as much noise as though the chain was to remain 
 upon my ankle for life. 
 
 A knot of my fellow-prisoners gathered about me 
 during the operation, and made themselves exceedingly 
 facetious at my expense. One of them, accompanying 
 the remark with a shake of his foot that made his own 
 chain clank again, assured me that I should find it 
 agreeable enough after I got used to it. Another said 
 it was not half so bad as pulling teeth ; and still another 
 remarked that chaining one’s leg was far less painful than 
 sawing it off. A musical genius commenced hum- 
 ming Bruce’s Address, laying emphatic stress upon the 
 line 
 
 “ Chains and slavery 
 
 while another individual, gifted slightly with vocal abil- 
 ities, essayed the ditty commencing with 
 
 “ Liberty for me.” 
 
280 
 
 LINKS OF FRIENDSHIP. 
 
 Even Major Bennett, although not much given to hu- 
 morous remarks, could not resist the opportunity of 
 being facetious. With a gravity which would have 
 become a graven image, he pretended to comfort me 
 with the remark that we all have our trials and tribula- 
 tions, quoted a verse from J ob to the etfect that useless 
 repining was of little avail, and wound up by saying 
 that the time would yet come when our bonds would all 
 be rent asunder. 
 
 While all this was in progress, I felt indignant enough 
 fairly to eat half a dozen links of the chain attached to 
 my ankle, but I still forced a laugh, and assumed a 
 cheerfulness of demeanour when I felt much more like 
 shedding tears from very vexation. Thoughts, too, of an 
 escape, of an immediate escape, ran through my mind 
 with such rapidity that twenty half-digested plans to effect 
 my liberty were formed and abandoned in half as many 
 minutes. I now considered myself cut off from all hope 
 of release through the interference of my own govern- 
 ment, and resolved to run every risk, and go to any ex- 
 pense, to achieve my liberation. In this frame of mind 
 I went back to the main room in which the prisoners 
 were confined, myself and companion dragging the 
 heavy chain after us. My friends congratulated me 
 upon my appearance in the “ trinkets,” and one of 
 them, pointing to the chain, humorously remarked that 
 I must now feel bound to the major by the strongest ties ! 
 This was on the morning of the 19th of April. 
 
 Up to this time I haVe never been able to fathom or 
 ascertain Santa Anna’s motives in having me removed 
 from San Lazaro to Santiago. Clothed in mystery as 
 the movements of the Mexicans generally are, and de- 
 lighting as they do in a dark and covert policy, there 
 was something unusually strange in the hour chosen 
 
RECAPITULATION. 
 
 281 
 
 the strong guard sent to secure my safe conduct, and 
 the fact that the officer who commanded the guard ap- 
 peared studiously to avoid giving me any clew as to 
 my destination. 
 
 But to show my readers in what a veil of mystery 
 the whole affair was shrouded, I will here revert to the 
 negotiations which had been pending, for the previous 
 three or four days, in relation to the liberation of my- 
 self, and of six other Americans who had claimed the 
 protection of the United States government. 
 
 On the 1 4th of April, Mr. Ellis, who was then short- 
 ly to leave Mexico, had an interview with Santa Anna 
 in relation to the cases of these seven Americans. At 
 this interview, Santa Anna expressed himself willing to 
 release the prisoners, but not until certain acts of the 
 United States were explained. He alluded to the fact 
 that at that time the U. S. frigate Macedonian Was off 
 Vera Cruz, with another American man-of-war, and 
 said that as soon as he received information, from the 
 commandante at Vera Cruz, that these vessels had sail- 
 ed, he would be pleased to give the prisoners up to Mr. 
 Ellis. While the vessels remained he should be pre- 
 vented from releasing them, as rumours were prevalent 
 in Mexico that the frigate brought a demand for the 
 prisoners, and the Mexican public might charge him 
 with being influenced by their presence in granting a 
 release — in other words, with being frightened into the 
 measure. The result of this interview, which was con- 
 sidered at the time as very favourable to my release, 
 induced Mr. Mayer to call upon me early the next 
 morning with the news — a circumstance I have men- 
 tioned in the previous chapter. 
 
 On the 16th of April, two days after this interview, 
 Mr. Mayer called upon the Mexican Minister of Foreign 
 A a 2 
 
282 
 
 MEXICAN PRETEXTS. 
 
 Relations, Jose Maria de Bocanegra. This call was 
 made about twelve o’clock, at the request of Mr. Ellis, 
 and with the object of ascertaining the farther action 
 of the Mexican government upon the subject of our re- 
 lease. M. de Bocanegra informed Mr. Mayer that he 
 could not tell him at what time the prisoners would be 
 set at liberty, as intelligence of a very disagreeable na- 
 ture had just been received by the government, which 
 might influence the mind of Santa Anna ; but in the 
 mean time the minister requested Mr. Mayer to call 
 upon him again the same evening, when he might ex- 
 pect a more definite answer upon the subject. 
 
 About five o’clock Mr. M. called again at the Foreign 
 Office, when M. de Bocanegra enumerated five points 
 of difficulty as to carrying into immediate effect the 
 promise made by Santa Anna, on the 14th, to Mr. Ellis. 
 I give these points as they were taken down in writing 
 by Mr. M., thinking they may interest some of my 
 readers : 
 
 First. That young Combs had armed, and was at the 
 head of, a body of hostile persons, under the name of 
 emigrants, advancing upon Mexico. 
 
 Second. That a Mr. Spencer had been sent from the 
 United States, with despatches to Texas, and that im- 
 mediately afterward, and in strange coincidence, the 
 Texan blockade of the eastern coast of Mexico had 
 been proclaimed. 
 
 Third. That Texas had proclaimed this blockade. 
 
 Fourth. That all the vessels of war had not yetjeft 
 Vera Cruz. 
 
 Fifth. That the publications in the papers of the Uni- 
 ted States against Mexico were most unfriendly, inflam- 
 matory, and hostile. 
 
 Not thinking it his duty to enter into an argument 
 
EVASIVE DIPLOMACY. 
 
 283 
 
 upon these points, Mr. Mayer asked M. de Bocanegra 
 whether the legation of the United States should con- 
 sider the negotiations in regard to the release of the 
 seven prisoners as terminated. The minister replied 
 that they were not to be considered terminated. Mr. 
 Mayer then wished to know whether the legation should 
 consider the Mexican government as having withdrawn 
 its word as to the release of the prisoners. The minis- 
 ter answered that such was not to be the interpretation 
 — that his own government did not withdraw its word, 
 but only “ suspended P’ its operation upon the question — 
 in short, that the “ suspension” should only be moment- 
 ary. Those acquainted with the artful, evasive, and 
 temporizing policy of a skilful Mexican diplomatist may 
 readily conceive that this “ momentary suspension” might 
 be spun out to ten years — and in this light I believe it 
 was viewed by those who were acquainted with the 
 circumstances. At all events, I judged, from the tone of 
 such friends as called upon me the day after this inter- 
 view, that my chance of release was as hopeless as 
 ever, and this opinion induced me to attempt an escape 
 over the walls of San Lazaro on the Monday following. 
 
 At the very time that I was thus contemplating an 
 escape, and while I was anxiously awaiting the arrival 
 of some friend at San Lazaro who would assist me, Mr. 
 Ellis was holding an interview with the ministers de 
 Bocanegra and Trigeros at the Treasury Department. 
 At this interview Mr. E. answered the jive points which 
 had caused the “ suspension” of our release, as follows : 
 
 First. That he had positive information that Combs 
 had gone home with his father from New-Orleans to 
 Kentucky, and was not engaged in the Texan war upon 
 Mexico. 
 
 Second. That Spencer was not a bearer of despatch- 
 
284 
 
 THE RESULT. 
 
 es from the government of the United States to Texas ; 
 but had used the title (as was rumoured) to protect him- 
 self from, or to evade, charges affecting him personally. 
 
 Third. That the United States had no part, influence, 
 or concern, in the Texan blockade, and, moreover, that 
 if the government he represented entertained hostile de- 
 signs upon Mexico (which it did not), they would be 
 manifested openly by our own forces, and not secretly, 
 through the navy of another power. 
 
 Fourth. That all the vessels of war of the United 
 States had actually left Vera Cruz. 
 
 Fifth. That the prints of the United States were free 
 • — not under the control of the government — and not the 
 organs of its opinions. 
 
 In answer to this, M. de Bocanegra wished Mr. El- 
 lis distinctly to understand that the promise of Mexico, 
 for the release of myself and the six other Americans, 
 was given — it was an act concluded — and its operation 
 only momentarily suspended. He farther stated, that 
 he would immediately see Santa Anna, and hoped the 
 conversation he had just held with Mr. E. would so far 
 satisfy the President as to induce him to order the re- 
 lease of the prisoners previous to Mr. Ellis’s departure 
 from Mexico, and that they might then accompany him 
 to the United States. 
 
 From all this it would seem that my release had been 
 fully and finally determined upon, to take place imme- 
 diately ; yet but a few hours afterward, and late at night, 
 I was escorted from San Lazaro under a strong guard, 
 and under circumstances the most annoying and mys- 
 terious, and taken to Santiago. It could hardly be for 
 my better security, and it would seem almost impossible 
 that any person had seen me removing the pole in the 
 hospital yard of San Lazaro ; whence I can only con- 
 
NOT LONG IN CHAINS. 
 
 285 
 
 jecture that the whole proceeding was the result of one 
 of those capricious impulses which appear to govern the 
 conduct of Santa Anna. Perhaps he thought he had 
 not already punished me enough, was anxious to make 
 the most of the short time I was still to be in his power, 
 and therefore sent me to Santiago to give me a taste of 
 life in chains. 
 
 The floor of our room at this old convent was of 
 stone, and in the way of furniture we had neither chairs, 
 tables, nor beds. After receiving the congratulations 
 of my friends, upon my first appearance in fetters, I 
 threw myself upon a blanket in that quarter of the pris- 
 on which had been appropriated by Colonel Cooke and 
 Dr. Brenham. The latter immediately began scratch- 
 ing the earth from the chinks between two stones, and 
 soon drew forth a small file which had been secreted 
 there. This he gave me, with directions for filing the 
 rivet that secured the chain to my ankle. I told him 
 that a small bribe had procured for me a ring, which I 
 could easily enough slip over my foot when night came. 
 While this conversation was going on, old Major Ben- 
 nett quietly released himself from his end of the chain, 
 and stalked off to a corner to peruse some book upon 
 which he was at the time engaged. 
 
 I was now initiated into some of the “ secrets of the 
 prison-house.” The old commandante of the guard — 
 the same person into whose quarters I had been taken 
 the night before, and who had registered my name in 
 the presence of the women — was tyrannical and over- 
 bearing in his disposition, and used his best exertions to 
 keep the prisoners continually in chains. The younger 
 officers of the guard, however, were many of them gen- 
 erous and kind-hearted to a fault, and not only furnish- 
 ed our officers with files with which to rid themselves 
 
286 
 
 SANTA ANNA AND THE BLACKSMITH. 
 
 of their irons during the night, but also winked at any 
 trifling violation of orders, and allowed them to move 
 about without the “ trinkets” during the day — only re- 
 questing them to avoid being seen by the old com- 
 mandante. The latter seldom visited the prisoners 
 more than once during the day ; and as there was al- 
 ways some one of them to give warning of his approach, 
 the chains were apparently “ all right and tight” when- 
 ever he entered our quarters. 
 
 Every morning a blacksmith from the city was sent 
 to examine and fasten the chains upon each prisoner ; 
 yet such adepts had the latter become at “ working in 
 iron,” that while the knight of the anvil was securing 
 one couple, the pair who had just passed through his 
 hands were very likely loose from their fetters, and 
 performing various antics and exchanging significant 
 nods at the old fellow’s expense behind his back. 
 
 The blacksmith, it was said, received twelve and a 
 half cents for each rivet he fastened, and as every 
 morning he found nearly all of them loose, the job was 
 an extremely profitable one for him. A good story 
 was told — having, probably, as much foundation in 
 truth as the thousand and one legends and traditions by 
 which the Mexican population is gulled — of an inter- 
 view the old blacksmith had one morning with Santa 
 Anna. The latter had noticed that a heavy bill was 
 paid daily for fastening the chains of the intractable 
 Texans, and questioned the blacksmith as to the cause. 
 He made answer that the Texans were difficult people 
 to deal with, and had strange ways that he could not 
 understand. Santa Anna asked him how it was that 
 while the simple fastening of a chain upon the ankle of 
 a Mexican was sufficient to secure him for a twelve- 
 month, without putting the government to farther ex- 
 
A FALSE ALARM. 
 
 287 
 
 pense, a Texan was sure to rid himself of the same 
 irons once in every twenty-four hours. This was a 
 question the blacksmith was entirely unable to answer, 
 farther than by informing his Excellency, the Provis- 
 ional President, that “ while he was busily engaged, 
 with hammer and anvil, securing one Texan, his com- 
 rade at the other end of the chain, and whom he had 
 but just operated upon, not only worked himself free, 
 but very likely did so at him /” This latter movement 
 of the Texan the blacksmith explained to Santa Anna 
 by putting his right thumb to his nose, and then per- 
 forming certain well-known and fanciful gyrations with 
 his fingers. As the story ran, which was of course a 
 fabrication of some wag among the prisoners, the Pres- 
 ident and the blacksmith, profoundly ignorant of the 
 meaning of a movement so mysterious, came to the 
 conclusion that the Texans had dealings with the prince 
 of darkness, and that it was labour lost to attempt to 
 secure them farther. At all events, the blacksmith sud- 
 denly ceased his morning visits, and from that time un- 
 til the Texans were liberated they were only submitted 
 to an occasional visitation from the Mexican who had 
 charge of the parties sent into the streets to work. 
 
 The reader may recollect that on the night when I 
 was escorted from San Lazaro to Santiago, and while 
 the guard who accompanied me were unlocking the 
 door of the room in which the prisoners in the latter 
 place were confined, I mentioned hearing a rattling and 
 clanking of chains. It arose from the circumstance 
 that the prisoners thought the old commandante wag 
 paying them a night visit, and on this supposition they 
 commenced fastening their chains with all possible de- 
 spatch. Upon seeing me enter the room, they shook 
 them off with even greater celerity. 
 
288 
 
 CONVENT OF SANTIAGO. 
 
 With the fastening of irons upon my ankle went all 
 hope of my being released by Santa Anna. I could not 
 conceive it possible, after subjecting me to this dis- 
 grace, that he had the most remote intention of giving 
 me liberty, and accordingly made up my mind at once 
 to attempt an escape. I openly told my friends that I 
 would not remain in Santiago a week, let the risk bq 
 what it might, and deeply was I vexed when I recalled 
 to mind the many unimproved opportunities to escape 
 that had presented themselves. 
 
 Here I will attempt a description of the convent in 
 which we were confined. It was originally intended 
 for a religious establishment, and some ten or fifteen 
 monks still dwelt within its walls. The front entrance 
 was through a narrow passage-way, having heavy doors 
 on the outer and inner sides, which were both closed at 
 night. In this passage-way many of the soldiers forming 
 our guard slept. It led into a large yard, having heavy 
 stone buildings on each side, and a fountain of excellent 
 water in the centre. The prisoners occupied rooms on 
 two sides of the square below, the other rooms being 
 used as a kitchen, apartments for storing, q hospital, 
 and a room in which mass was said on Sundays. The 
 upper stories were occupied by the monks, by the com- 
 mandante and his family, and by a number of crippled, 
 invalid, and aged soldiers, veterans in the Mexican ser- 
 vice. Outside of the building, on the side next the city, 
 was the balcony from which Lieutenant Lubbock and 
 the Frenchman Mazur had jumped when they made 
 their escape, but the entrance to this balcony from 
 within had been immediately walled up to prevent oth- 
 ers from following in their footsteps. On the same 
 side, a flight of stairs led from the second story to a 
 garden below, in which the monks walked or worked 
 
PROBABILITIES OF ESCAPE. 
 
 289 
 
 daring the day. This garden was surrounded by a low 
 wall, which would have offered but a slight impediment 
 to an escape ; but a soldier was constantly stationed at 
 the door leading to the garden, to prevent others than 
 the monks from passing in or out. 
 
 There was a passage-way in the rear, corresponding 
 with that which led into the yard in front, but its doors 
 were kept continually locked. This passage led, I be- 
 lieve, to a walled enclosure in which thousands of the 
 victims of cholera were buried in 1833. The back part 
 of our room was destitute of windows, and the walls 
 were extremely thick, so that there was no hope of es’ 
 cape that way. The only means, therefore, of getting 
 away from Santiago with any probability of success, 
 were either to bribe the guard stationed at the front en- 
 trance ; to procure false keys for the doors leading to 
 the rear, in which case we should also have been com- 
 pelled to bribe the sentinel at the door of our room ; or 
 to walk out of the door leading to the garden in open 
 daylight, and in the disguise of a monk. The latter 
 would have required no associate within the walls, 
 either Texan or Mexican, and I resolved to undertake 
 it, should no more feasible plan offer. I should have 
 taken holy clothes, not holy orders, for a short time, or, 
 in other words, procured a monk’s gown and cowl from 
 some one of my friends. Then, by cutting off whis- 
 kers and mustaches, of which I had cultivated a liberal 
 quantity for the express purpose of disguising myself ; 
 by also shaving the top of my head in imitation of the 
 holy brotherhood, and putting the gown and cowl over 
 my other dress, I could have passed out for a respect- 
 able monk — at all events, I should have tried the experi- 
 ment in case other plans failed. 
 
 I had not been in irons an hour before Dr. Brenham 
 
 Vol. II. — B B 
 
290 
 
 GOING OUT TO WORK. 
 
 and myself, with one of the Texan officers, had deter- 
 mined upon sounding some of our guard as to whether 
 they would pass us out in the night for a liberal sum of 
 money. Young Sully, one of the Texans who spoke 
 Spanish, w r as also let into the secret, and would have 
 ventured with us had the attempt been made. Sully 
 was the interpreter of the prisoners, and from constant 
 communication with the guard knew every officer and 
 soldier belonging to it. He had frequently hinted the 
 subject of an escape to some of them, and from their 
 answers felt confident that one hundred dollars would 
 open every door in the Convent of Santiago. Having 
 thus made up our minds to escape, we all awaited, with 
 not a little impatience, a favourable opportunity to carry 
 some one of our plans into effect. 
 
 At eight o’clock in the morning the Mexican having 
 charge of the prisoners who worked in the streets made 
 his appearance, with orders for them to be in readiness. 
 I had expected that Santa Anna would impose street 
 duty upon me also, and compel me to work it out ; but 
 in this I was agreeably disappointed. 
 
 It was really amusing to see the Texans setting out 
 for their morning’s work. The orders from headquar- 
 ters were, that all should be sent into the streets ; but it 
 was easy enough to avoid it by feigning sickness. The 
 larger portion preferred the fresh air and exercise outside 
 the walls to the confinement and closeness within, going 
 to their labour with joyous laughs which contrasted 
 strangely with the clanking of their chains. The latter 
 they cared little for. Their limbs were fettered, but 
 their minds were free ; and a moment’s reflection taught 
 them, however much they might have been annoyed at 
 first, that they had committed no act which as men 
 they could be ashamed of, and consequently their chains 
 
FARE OF THE PRISONERS. 
 
 291 
 
 were no disgrace. As to the work they did, it was all 
 a mere farce : there was not one of them but could have 
 performed the labour of a day in fifteen minutes by 
 using mere ordinary exertion. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Fare of the Texans in Santiago. — Their Companions at Puebla not as well 
 treated. — The Latter compelled to work and associate with Mexican Mal- 
 efactors. — Anecdote of the Old Commandante of Santiago. — The Texans 
 achieve a decided Victory over their Oppressor. — The Puebla Prisoners at 
 their Tricks. — Attending Mass in Chains. — Mad Pranks of the Texans in 
 Church. — Additional Ceremonies ingrafted upon the Catholic Ritual. — 
 The Reader taken back to Santiago. — Foreign Visiters. — Farther Thoughts 
 of escaping. — Action of General Thompson in my Behalf. — The Foreign 
 Policy of the United States — Its Weakness and Inefficiency. — Santa 
 Anna “ Laughing in his Sleeve.”' — Plan to bribe our Guard at Santiago. — 
 Evening Amusements of the Prisoners. — Major Bennett and his Bible. — 
 Agreeable Soirees. — Character of the Anglo-Saxon Race under Misfortune. 
 — Anticipation worse than Reality. — The Texans taken to their Morning 
 Work. — Reasons for Slighting the Author.^-More Visiters at Santiago. — 
 Advised to defer an Escape. — Preparations for celebrating the Anniversary 
 of the Battle of San Jacinto. — The Texans at their Work. — Experiments 
 as to the smallest possible Amount of Labour a Man can perform when he 
 exerts himself. — The Mexicans Outwitted. — Decorations of our Room. — 
 San Jacinto and Patriotism. — The Texans at their Celebration. — Close of 
 the Anniversary. 
 
 The prisoners in the Convent of Santiago were com- 
 paratively well fed — far better than were their unfor- 
 tunate comrades at either Puebla or Perote, as I after- 
 ward ascertained. At Santiago, a pint of very good 
 coffee was given to each man in the morning, with a 
 dish of well-cooked frijoles and as much bread as he 
 wanted. The latter was white, sweet, and brought to 
 us fresh, the Mexicans being famous for the rare quality 
 of their bread. For dinner, which was cooked by some 
 
292 
 
 WOB.SE TREATED AT PUEBLA. 
 
 of our own men, we had beef, rice, and vegetables, the 
 former of inferior quality, as the cattle in the vicinity of 
 Mexico are seldom fat. There was an abundance of 
 everything, however, and seldom are prisoners of war 
 better treated, as far as regards eating, than were the 
 Texans at the city of Mexico. 
 
 At Puebla the case was said to be widely different, a 
 niggardly economy prevailing in the commissariat. As 
 regards clothing, too, the prisoners at Santiago were 
 infinitely better provided for than their comrades at 
 Puebla, for while the former were neatly and comforta- 
 bly clad— I believe by the chief magistrate of the city 
 of Mexico — the latter received little raiment other than 
 that supplied to them by foreigners. They were con- 
 fined, too, at the Presidio, in the same patio or court- 
 yard with two or three hundred of the vilest malefac- 
 tors, and at first were even chained to them — a Mexi- 
 can and Texan at either end of a long and heavy chain : 
 but from some cause they were afterward separated, 
 and the Texans confined together by the same fetters. 
 The Puebla prisoners were also sent into the streets 
 under most oppressive taskmasters, and, in company 
 with the lowest Mexican felons and malefactors, com- 
 pelled to clean the streets, gutters, and filthy sewers of 
 the city, besides undergoing other trials even more de- 
 grading. 
 
 Not so at Santiago. The old commandante, one 
 morning, ordered the Texans to perform some debasing 
 work, which they at once and peremptorily refused to 
 engage in. A second time they were commanded to 
 the task, but still they persisted in the stand they had 
 taken. Driven almost to madness, the ill-natured offi- 
 cer next ordered such of them as refused the disgracing 
 labour to step a few paces forward, at the same time 
 
THE COMMANDANTE FOILED. 
 
 293 
 
 muttering dark threats against such as should venture 
 from the ranks. To his utter dismay, every man bold- 
 ly stepped forward, determined to be shot at once 
 rather than obey his orders. The old commandante 
 fumed, fretted, and swore, and threatened to send an 
 account of their refractory conduct to Santa Anna him- 
 self, but all to no purpose — the Texans were united and 
 determined in the stand they had taken. This was the 
 last time they were called upon to perform any vile 
 office. The commandante really sent a report of the 
 transaction to the functionary who was at that time the 
 principal magistrate or mayor of the city ; but the pris- 
 oners forwarded another account of it to the same per- 
 sonage, in which they declared their willingness to la- 
 bour, but boldly added that they would be coerced to 
 no debasing work. The magistrate, whose name I 
 have forgotten, but whom all the prisoners must recol- 
 lect as a gentlemanly and liberal man, admitted the jus- 
 tice of their conduct, and gave orders that they should 
 never be called upon to perform such offices as the 
 commandante had endeavoured to exact from them. 
 Here was a decided victory gained over their oppres- 
 sor, and the Texans improved it in such a way that the 
 old and ill-natured fellow was sorry he had ever crossed 
 them. 
 
 One would suppose the indignities and hardships 
 heaped upon the prisoners at Puebla would break their 
 spirits ; but such was not the case — nothing could sub- 
 due their natural buoyancy of disposition. Many and 
 amusing were the stories related of the fun and frolic 
 they were continually getting up” among themselves, 
 and the tricks and jokes they perpetrated whenever an 
 opportunity occurred. The wags who were instru- 
 mental in convening the mirthful courts at San Cristo- 
 B b 2 
 
294 
 
 GOING TO MASS. 
 
 bal were still among them, ever ready to extract laugh- 
 ter let what would happen. One anecdote I will re- 
 late — a story which is entirely too good to be lost. 
 
 Every Sunday morning, the prisoners confined at 
 Puebla were compelled to attend mass, in chains, at 
 one of the churches. The floors of all the religious 
 establishments of note in Mexico are of stone or marble, 
 without seats of any kind, and those in attendance must 
 either kneel or stand during the ceremonies. In the 
 present instance, the Texans were paraded in rows be- 
 fore the altar, and compelled to fall upon their knees 
 while mass was said ; but they were not obliged to go 
 through all the little forms and ceremonies which the 
 Catholic Church in Mexico exacts of its votaries, such 
 as crossing themselves, smiting their breasts, and other 
 outward observances. Well drilled, however, were 
 they in all the minutiae of these demonstrations, and in 
 addition one of the jokers, who had acted as the pros- 
 ecuting attorney at San Cristobal, and who was a great 
 mimic, taught them a few original “ extras” and “ fancy 
 touches,” which he had ingrafted upon the regular Cath- 
 olic ceremonials. So well had he disciplined his broth- 
 er prisoners, that they could go through all his ritual 
 with as much promptness and precision as could the 
 best military company in existence go through its sim- 
 plest manoeuvres. 
 
 On arriving at the church, and after kneeling in front 
 of the altar, the well-drilled Texans awaited the usual 
 signal from the officiating priest to commence. There 
 probably was not a Catholic among them ; yet the as- 
 sumed air of grave devotion to be seen in their faces 
 would have done credit to the most rigid of that creed. 
 At the given signal, and at the proper time, the chained 
 prisoners would cross themselves with all seeming hu- 
 
EXTRA OBSERVANCES. 
 
 295 
 
 mility, closely imitating every motion of the priest and 
 of the Mexicans around them ; but instead of stopping 
 with their Catholic neighbours, they wound up by pla- 
 cing the right thumb to the tip of their noses, and then, 
 with a mock gravity which might have drawn a smile 
 from an Egyptian mummy, circled the fingers about, 
 and all this directly in the face of the officiating priest, 
 and without a smile upon their countenances. When 
 the proper time came for again crossing themselves, 
 the mischievous leader of the Texans would pass the 
 word for his men to “ come the double compound ac- 
 tion,” as he called it. This resembled the first move- 
 ment, with the exception that it was more complicated 
 and more mysterious to the surrounding Mexicans. Af- 
 ter the right hand had gone its usual round, from fore- 
 head to breast and from shoulder to shoulder, the thumb 
 again settled on the tip of the nose ; but this time the 
 left thumb was joined to the little finger of the right 
 hand, and then commenced a series of fancy gyrations 
 with all the fingers, the like of which was probably 
 never before seen in a Catholic church. Sam Weller, 
 I believe, or if not he, some modern philosopher of his 
 school, defines the movement I have just described as 
 meaning something like “ This may be all very true, 
 but we don’t believe a word of it.” What the Mexi- 
 cans thought of it, or whether they noticed it or not, I 
 am unable to say : it may be that they considered it as 
 simply “a way” the Texans had, and thought no more 
 of it. Such is the story told of the pranks played by 
 the prisoners confined in Puebla. 
 
 During the first day of my imprisonment at Santiago 
 we were visited by numbers of foreigners, all manifest- 
 ing not a little astonishment at seeing me there, and in 
 irons. They had not even heard of my being removed 
 
296 
 
 PROCEEDINGS OF GENERAL THOMPSON. 
 
 from San Lazaro, and promised to inform Mr. Ellis and 
 General Thompson of the circumstance as soon as they 
 returned to the city. I told them, one and all, that I 
 would not remain in the place a week, let the risk be 
 what it might, and even requested one of them to smug- 
 gle me in a monk’s habit, that I might have everything 
 in readiness should a favourable opportunity occur of 
 escaping in that disguise through the garden. Our 
 friends left after a short visit, and the rest of the day I 
 passed in dragging my chain over the stone floor, and 
 in waiting, with not a little impatience, the return of 
 Sully, who was in the street with the men. I was anx- 
 ious to know his success in tampering with the guard. 
 
 Among the Americans who visited us during the 
 forenoon was Mr. Perrin. On returning to the city, he 
 at once communicated the fact of my being in Santiago, 
 and in irons, to General Thompson. The latter had not 
 yet been duly received as the accredited minister of the 
 United States, but he promptly interested himself in my 
 behalf by calling immediately at the residence of Mr. 
 Ellis and informing him of the facts, expressing not a 
 little astonishment and indignation at the strange and 
 uncalled-for conduct of the Mexican government. Here 
 I will give an extract from General Thompson’s official 
 letter to Mr. Webster, narrating the circumstance of 
 his visit to Mr. Ellis, which I find published in the Mad- 
 isonian of the 30th of June, 1842 : 
 
 “ On my arrival in Mexico I was informed, and after- 
 ward learned from Mr. Ellis, that on the 14th of April, 
 two days before my arrival in this city, and when I 
 was hourly expected, he had an interview with the 
 President, Santa Anna, and had been promised the re- 
 lease of the American prisoners. Mr. Ellis told me, at 
 the same time, he had no hope of the fulfilment of this 
 
GENERAL THOMPSON’S CORRESPONDENCE. 297 
 
 promise. It was natural that Mr. Ellis should desire 
 these prisoners to be released to him, and not to me ; 
 and as I thought the Mexican authorities would prefer 
 that the matter should take this course, I was disposed 
 to aid Mr. Ellis in his negotiations by every means in 
 my power — the liberation of the prisoners being the 
 primary object. On Tuesday, the 19th, I was not a 
 little surprised to learn that Mr. Kendall had been re- 
 moved from the hospital of San Lazaro to the Convent 
 of Santiago, and for the first time put in chains. I im- 
 mediately went to the office of Mr. Ellis, and proposed 
 that he should write a note to the Minister of Foreign 
 Relations, or that we should address to him a joint note 
 on the subject. He declined doing so, saying that he 
 had seen the minister the day before, and that he did 
 not think any good would result. I told him I thought 
 the subsequent placing of Mr. Kendall in irons justified 
 and demanded it, and immediately addressed to M. de 
 Bocanegra the note No. 5.” 
 
 I will also give extracts from General Thompson’s 
 letter to M. de Bocanegra, referred to at the close of 
 the passage just quoted. M. de B., it should be re- 
 membered, was at that time the Mexican Minister of 
 Foreign Relations. Tins letter, I believe, was written 
 at the room of Mr. Ellis, and was despatched immedi- 
 ately to M. de Bocanegra. It is dated “ Mexico, April 
 19, 1842,” bears the signature of General Thompson 
 alone, and appeared originally in the same number of 
 the Madisonian : 
 
 “ The undersigned had the honour, on yesterday, to 
 address a note to your excellency, announcing the fact 
 of his appointment as minister of the United States of 
 America, near this government, and of his arrival in this 
 city, and requesting to know when he could have the 
 
298 HIS EXERTIONS FOR THE AUTHOR. 
 
 honour of being presented to the most excellent the Pro- 
 visional President of Mexico. Not having received an 
 answer to that note (of which he by no means com- 
 plains), the undersigned as yet bears no official relation 
 to this government. But having this moment been in- 
 formed that a citizen of the United States, Mr. George 
 W. Kendall, who has been confined in the hospital of 
 San Lazaro, has been removed to the Convent of San- 
 tiago, and placed in chains, the undersigned hopes it 
 will be his sufficient apology for his again addressing 
 your excellency. 
 
 “ The undersigned is in possession of testimony addi- 
 tional to that heretofore submitted to your excellency, 
 which he believes will place beyond all doubt the facts 
 of Mr. Kendall having had a passport, and that his pur- 
 poses in his visit to Mexico were altogether pacific. 
 The undersigned, relying (as he does) on the sincerity 
 of the professions heretofore made to his excellency, Mr. 
 Ellis, has no hesitation in saying that the Mexican au- 
 thorities will be satisfied with this evidence, and will 
 take pleasure in releasing Mr. Kendall.” 
 
 These extracts I have copied, partly to show the ef- 
 fect my removal from San Lazaro to Santiago had upon 
 my fi’iends in Mexico, but principally to make known 
 the deep interest taken in my behalf by General Thomp- 
 son. Although at the time I had little hope of obtaining 
 immediate liberty through the intervention of my own 
 government, I still could not but feel grateful for the 
 prompt and decided tone adopted by the new minister 
 in an emergency to me so critical. 
 
 I could not, at the time, look upon the course pursued 
 by Mr. Ellis as sufficiently energetic, yet even to this 
 day I do not believe that a majority of our diplomatic 
 agents would have acted differently. I am firmly con- 
 
BOLDNESS THE BEST POLICY. 
 
 299 
 
 vinced that a bold tone would have been the proper one, 
 and that the assumption of responsibility would have 
 met with the approval of the people of the United States ; 
 but the chief blame must He at the door of the govern- 
 ment, not at the minister’s. That Mr. Ellis did not suc- 
 ceed better, in his efforts to procure the liberty of his 
 countrynien, must be ascribed, in the first place, to the 
 circumstance that it has almost become a settled policy 
 with our foreign plenipotentiaries — a policy he did not 
 feel disposed to deviate from — to avoid taking a serious 
 and decided responsibility, in cases of sudden emergen- 
 cy, fearful that the interests of the party which has sent 
 them may be injured, or its plans for future advance- 
 ment frustrated by so doing ; and herein lies one of the 
 most serious deficiencies of our system of government. 
 The foreign agents of the United States have nominally 
 the same powers that are granted to those of England 
 or France ^ yet while the latter can act promptly, and 
 with the full confidence that they will be justified and 
 supported at home in whatever stand they may take, 
 the hands of the former are too often tied by the fear 
 that their course may possibly run counter to the inter- 
 ests of that party or clique whose servants they deem 
 themselves, and hence, in matters of really trivial im- 
 portance, they are driven to write home for advice how 
 to act. In the second place, the instructions at first 
 sent to Mr. Ellis were such as allowed him no other al- 
 ternative than a “ war of words” with the Mexican di- 
 plomatists — a game at which the latter leave the Anglo- 
 Saxon race entirely in the distance. They resemble 
 Goldsmith’s country schoolmaster, 
 
 “ For e’en though vanquished, he could argue still,” 
 
 and so can they. If my reader would allow me one 
 moment’s digression, I would give it as my firm convic- 
 
300 
 
 NOTHING GAINED BY TEMPORIZING. 
 
 tion that we have had but two administrations, since the 
 days of Washington, that were properly bold and inde- 
 pendent as regards their foreign policy — those of the 
 elder Adams and General Jackson. Politicians can 
 take no umbrage at this remark, as I have mentioned 
 two extremes when the general policy of the country 
 is taken into consideration. One great fault, "'with too 
 many of the administrations by which we have been 
 governed, has been the resort to protracted arguments 
 in matters where not a word of debate should have 
 been allowed — a policy but too well understood by ev- 
 ery government with which we have had dealings, and 
 of which all, as a matter of course, have taken advan- 
 tage. When the powers at Washington are convinced 
 that they are in the right, upon any question of foreign 
 policy at issue, what necessity for dispute ? If it is ev- 
 ident that any little patch of territory, no matter how 
 insignificant, belongs of right to us, why not plant, oc- 
 cupy, and, in firm but dignified language, say that we 
 will keep it at any and all hazards ? If it can be made 
 to appear that an American citizen, under protection of 
 that flag of which we so much boast, is insulted in a for- 
 eign land, why not demand and obtain full satisfaction 
 at once ? In many, too many instances, such has not 
 been the case, and every fresh demonstration of ineffi- 
 ciency or inattention to these matters is but granting a 
 fresh license for some foreign power to repeat its ag- 
 gressions and its insults. In the case of Mr. Alvarez, our 
 consul at Santa Fe, who, in 1841, was wantonly attack- 
 ed and severely wounded in his own house, and direct- 
 ly under the “ stars and stripes” — in his case what has 
 been done ? Nothing whatever. I might mention even 
 greater outrages, but this is sufficient. 
 
 Had Mr. Ellis been authorized to try the virtue of 
 
GENERAL THOMPSON AND MR. ELLIS. 
 
 301 
 
 “ blows and knocks,” as he undoubtedly would have 
 been by General Jackson, he would have done so with 
 promptness ; but he seemed anxious in no way to tran- 
 scend the limited instructions given him, and hence the 
 long-protracted correspondence which took place in 
 relation to the American prisoners.* Mr. E. might, 
 and I believe should, have taken the responsibility, and 
 made a positive demand, either for the prisoners or his 
 passports, in which case, such was the state of feeling 
 in the United States at the time, I am confident he 
 would have been justified by nine tenths of the people ; 
 but, like too many others, he was a “ strict construc- 
 tionist,” and disposed to obey rigidly the very letter of 
 his instructions. 
 
 On the other hand, had General Thompson been then 
 our minister, he would have stretched the instructions 
 given him to their utmost — nay, would have shaken oft' 
 the trammels a weak point in our government appears 
 to have thrown over her agents — and by so doing, let 
 what would come of it, received the warm approval and 
 universal thanks of his countrymen. He might not have 
 effected more than did Mr. Ellis, yet I am constrained 
 to believe that he would — that our immediate libera- 
 tion would have followed close upon a positive de- 
 mand. 
 
 Such I conceive to be the difference between the two 
 ministers, or rather between the course adopted by Mr. 
 Ellis and that which undoubtedly would have been pur- 
 sued by his successor ; and although suffering and im- 
 
 * Had General Jackson been President of the United States at the time, 
 I do not believe that one of the American prisoners would have been in 
 bondage twenty-four hours after the first despatch in relation to them had 
 been received at Mexico from Washington. The Mexican diplomatists 
 know perfectly well with whom they have to deal — there would have been 
 no “ putting off the previous question” had General J. been in power, 
 
 Vol. II.— C c 
 
302 
 
 NIGHT IN SANTIAGO. 
 
 prisonment without cause for months may have wrought 
 prejudice in my mind, I cannot but believe that the lat- 
 ter course would have been the better and the prop- 
 er one. Nor can I even now divest myself of the 
 idea that Santa Anna, to this day, laughs in his sleeve 
 when he remembers upon what flimsy pretexts he re- 
 tained several Americans in prison, without the shadow 
 of cause, and despite the remonstrances of the repre- 
 sentative of the United States.* 
 
 But to return to the actual. When Sully came in 
 from the streets, on the evening of the day which had 
 first introduced me to the irons, we ascertained that he 
 had made partial arrangements with some of our guard 
 to pass four of us out secretly in the course of a night 
 or two, or at the first favourable opportunity. The 
 plan was to be more fully matured the next day. 
 
 At dark, the heavy door of our room was locked, not 
 to be opened again until morning, and in the mean 
 time a regular guard was placed before it on the out- 
 side. The closing of the door was but the signal for 
 all the prisoners to divest themselves of their chains. 
 Such as could slip the irons over their ankles and feet 
 
 * The fact of my having a passport, although denied, was so abundantly 
 proved, that the Mexican government hardly urged it as an excuse by which 
 to detain me ; but the Chihuahua letter, thoughtlessly written by an American 
 gentleman since dead, and in which it was erroneously stated that I was 
 sent forward as an avant courrier, was used as a pretext to the very last. By 
 a distortion of the sense of that letter peculiarly Mexican, I was implicated 
 with the Santa F6 Expedition, and finding this a sufficient plea to continue 
 me in prison, it was never lost sight of. I have little doubt, if the truth could 
 be known, that the papers of which I was robbed by Armijo, passport and all, 
 were quietly resting in the bureau of the Mexican Minister of Foreign Rela- 
 tions during the whole time of the negotiations in relation to the release of 
 the American prisoners. The story that Armijo destroyed the passport in 
 my presence was certainly erroneous, and as he sent all the important papers 
 found upon the Texans to the capital, I have little doubt that mine found 
 their way there in the same package. 
 
AMUSEMENTS OF THE PRISONERS. 
 
 303 
 
 were at once free, while others produced files from 
 their hiding-places, and the work of cutting down rivets 
 was commenced, with an assiduity and zeal, which 
 soon resulted in the Texans ridding themselves of all 
 encumbrances upon their comfort and free locomotion. 
 In certainly less than half an hour the ankles of nearly 
 every prisoner were loosened from the shackles, and it 
 was only from indolence that all did not free them- 
 selves. The chains were then carefully placed in po- 
 sitions where they could easily be put on again, should 
 the ill-natured old commandante by any chance take it 
 into his head to make us a night visit, and this little pre- 
 caution over, the varied entertainments which usually 
 beguiled the long evenings commenced. 
 
 There were some fifty of us in the room in which I 
 was confined, and in one quarter of it would be seen a 
 party engaged at whist, all-fours, uchre, or some other 
 game a knowledge of which they had brought with 
 them from Texas. In another part some prisoner 
 would open the game of monte, an insight into which 
 he had picked up from the Mexicans since his confine- 
 ment, and around him would be gathered a small knot 
 of betters staking small sums upon the turn of the cards, 
 for all appeared to have more or less money. By the 
 same candle, probably, some two or three of the Tex- 
 ans were reading such books as the foreigners had sent 
 us. In still another quarter a small party would be 
 seen, half reclining upon their blankets, while one of 
 their number recited some story of other days and 
 lands ; and should the story chance to be humorous in 
 its nature, the joyous and hearty laugh which followed 
 its termination showed plainly enough that the listeners 
 were thinking of anything but chains and imprisonment. 
 
 Songs, too, enlivened the scene, and served to beguile 
 
304 
 
 MIRTH IN CAPTIVITY. 
 
 the hours, while several musicians in the party had 
 found means to procure instruments upon which some 
 of them played exceedingly well. But of all the modes 
 employed to while away the evenings, the most com- 
 mon, perhaps, was reading, and conspicuous among this 
 class was my yoke-fellow in chains, the veteran Major 
 Bennett, who might be seen busily poring over a Bible 
 which had been given him by Mr. Elliott, the chaplain 
 of the United States Exploring Expedition, when in 
 Santiago on his way from the Pacific to Washington. 
 
 Thus with books and song, cards and stories, the 
 hours slipped away pleasantly enough to all, and the 
 reader may feel not a little astonishment when I say 
 that the nightly soirees in the old Convent of Santiago 
 were as productive of mirth as are many of those held 
 within the gay saloons of any land. There is some- 
 thing in the Anglo-Saxon character which buoys and 
 sustains the spirit under adversity, a quality which ap- 
 pears to be inherent ; and it was continually a matter 
 of surprise to our guard, from San Miguel even to the 
 city of Mexico, to see not only the indifference we all 
 manifested under our misfortunes, but the gayety and 
 good-humour which at all times prevailed among the 
 prisoners. And I doubt whether any of the Texans, 
 when memory now carries them back, ever think, with- 
 out shuddering, of scenes through which they then pass- 
 ed, but which at the time they thought little of, or cared 
 not for. The anticipation of any impending danger or 
 difficulty is invariably worse than the reality; and when 
 the dreaded reality arrives, and the full measure of our 
 fear breaks upon us, the imagination so busies itself in 
 fancying still greater peril and suffering in perspective 
 that the present is lightened of half its burden. The 
 much-dreaded future is an ignis fatuus, leading the 
 
A REASON FOR NOT ESCAPING. 
 
 305 
 
 mind to anticipate troubles and annoyances which, 
 when encountered, are either not noticed, or only sur- 
 prise us by their comparatively trifling importance. 
 
 When the morning of the 20th of April came, and the 
 Mexican who had charge of the prisoners while at their 
 work entered our apartment, I again expected that I 
 should be ordered into the streets, and compelled to go 
 through the form of labour ; but I was once more for- 
 tunate enough to escape. The reason for thus slight- 
 ing me may have been the circumstance that Major 
 Bennett, my companion at the other end of the chain, 
 was exempted from all outdoor work — partly on ac- 
 count of his age and rank as an officer, but principally 
 because he was engaged a portion of his time in the 
 cocina, attending to the cooking of our food. 
 
 In the course of the day several parties of foreigners 
 visited Santiago. I told them all that I should attempt 
 an escape, and that very night if a favourable opportu- 
 nity offered. They advised me, by all means, to defer 
 any attempt until after General Thompson was duly 
 received as the accredited minister of the United States, 
 and I partially consented to this course ; yet had a door 
 been left open, or the least chance of a successful escape 
 offered, I should most certainly have bidden farewell to 
 imprisonment, chains, and Santiago together.* The 
 recollection of the many favourable opportunities to 
 
 * A Yankee friend of mine resident in Mexico — one of the old Bunker Hill 
 stock — told me, while in San Lazaro, that he hoped I would “ tough it out 
 awhile” — I use his own words — in the expectation that our government 
 might be driven into a “ small skirmish” — his own words again — with Mex- 
 ico. T know that one reason why many Americans were anxious that I 
 should not escape through my own means was their desire for a war, and 
 that they thought my farther detention would be just cause for one. The 
 result of a war, they were confident, would place them upon an equality 
 with the English and French residents — a position they said they were far 
 from enjoying. 
 
 C c 2 
 
306 
 
 THE DAY OF SAN JACINTO. 
 
 escape while in San Lazaro haunted and annoyed me 
 excessively ; and nothing short of a positive assurance 
 of an honourable liberation within a week could have 
 kept me twenty-four hours in Santiago, had there been 
 a possibility of liberating myself. 
 
 At a late hour on the evening of the 20th two or 
 three Americans called upon me a second time, and 
 earnestly requested me to remain quiet another day — 
 to hazard no attempt at an escape until I should hear 
 farther from them. As the principal plan, adopted by 
 myself and companions to effect our liberation, was 
 still far from being matured, I consented to abide by 
 the advice of the Americans, and with no little reluc- 
 tance passed another night in Santiago. 
 
 Early the next morning there appeared to be unusual 
 bustle and preparation among the prisoners — an excite- 
 ment which I did not at first understand. On inquiry, 
 I learned that it was the anniversary of the celebrated 
 battle of San Jacinto — the great victory gained over 
 Santa Anna — and that the Texans were determined 
 upon celebrating it as brilliantly as possible. Some of 
 the Americans then in Mexico, among them Mr. Cool- 
 idge, had sent the prisoners some half dozen turkeys, 
 and other luxuries in the way of eating, besides a gen- 
 erous supply of wines and liquors of the choicest quali- 
 ties. The Texans had also provided themselves, while 
 in the streets the day before, with such little delicacies 
 as they could purchase, determined upon having a grand 
 dinner on the “ glorious 21st,” if nothing else. 
 
 On ordinary occasions the prisoners were taken from 
 Santiago at about eight o’clock in the morning, con- 
 ducted some half or three quarters of a mile from the 
 convent to a ditch, and then compelled to go through 
 the forms of pumping and digging. By as close a 
 
LIGHT LABOUR. 
 
 307 
 
 mathematical calculation as could be made, without in- 
 struments or figures, it was thought the water ran into 
 the ditch they were clearing just as fast as they pump- 
 ed it out — perhaps a trifle faster ; but the economy of 
 effecting much with little labour is but ill understood in 
 Mexico, and the fact that the Texans made no progress 
 in the job upon which they were engaged created but 
 little difference with the Mexican overseers. At twelve 
 o’clock, or near that hour, the prisoners were conducted 
 back to the convent for their dinners, all in chains, and 
 after occupying some hour and a half or two hours with 
 this meal, they were again conducted to the ditch. Not 
 one of them ever hurt or tired himself with work, but 
 on the contrary it was said that they amused themselves 
 by experimenting on the smallest possible amount of 
 labour a man could perform when he set his wits to 
 work and tried his best ! I recollect a remark made by 
 a facetious prisoner one evening — I think it was Jimmy 
 Tweed — to the effect that he had exerted himself all 
 day to ascertain how little he could do ; and the result, 
 in round numbers, was, that he had thrown one shovel- 
 ful of mud from the ditch, but in so doing he had con- 
 trived to tumble three back ! 
 
 The great object with the Texans, on the morning 
 of the 21st of April, was to obtain the consent of the 
 old commandante to their remaining in-doors during 
 the afternoon — they were anxious enough to be taken 
 out in the morning, as it would give them an opportu- 
 nity to increase their supply of liquor and other mate- 
 rials for the feast. A committee, composed of such as 
 could speak Spanish, was accordingly appointed, whose 
 business it was to wait upon the Mexican officers and 
 inform them that the 21st of April was the patron saint’s 
 day of Texas, and also, in language most respectful and 
 
308 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR A FESTIVAL. 
 
 courteous, to ask permission to celebrate it in the after- 
 noon with all becoming ceremony and rejoicing. In 
 profound ignorance of the day, and the glorious battle 
 the Texans wished to celebrate, the Mexican officers 
 kindly gave their consent to every request made. By 
 such stratagem the great object of the prisoners was 
 accomplished, and they now set themselves about ma- 
 king every arrangement for the approaching festivi- 
 ties.* 
 
 Such of the prisoners as had any skill in drawing or 
 painting feigned illness, and were not taken out in the 
 morning with their comrades. They had obtained, by 
 some means, a supply of red and white paint, and the 
 result of their morning’s work was the decoration of the 
 walls of our room with Texan flags, and sea and land 
 fights — the Texans of course triumphant, the Mexicans 
 discomfited, and the “ lone star” in the ascendant. An 
 appropriate ode — full of patriotism, liberty, San Jacinto, 
 love of country, detestation of tyrants, &c. — was written 
 by some poet among the prisoners, and one of the Tex- 
 an officers, known to be endowed with vocal powers, 
 was appointed to sing it. A master of ceremonies, an 
 orator of the day, toast-master— -in fact all the requi- 
 site officers were appointed, and before the men came 
 in from their morning’s work, every necessary prepara- 
 tion had been made for a regular celebration. 
 
 The hour at which the dinner was to be served was 
 three o’clock ; but before that time a number of foreign- 
 ers had arrived at Santiago for the purpose of taking 
 
 * It could not have been that the Mexicans were aware of the events 
 which had transpired on the 21st of April. The younger officers of our 
 guard were liberal and accommodating to a fault; yet they would not have 
 dared grant the Texans permission to celebrate a victory which had lost 
 their country one of its most valuable provinces, and this under the very 
 nose of Santa Anna himself, who had been taken prisoner in that battle. 
 
CLOSE OF THE FESTIVAL. 
 
 309 
 
 part in the celebration. One of them, who at this time 
 was residing in the city of Mexico, was himself a mem- 
 ber of the small but gallant band that achieved the 
 great victory of San Jacinto, and related several inter- 
 esting anecdotes of that desperate struggle — a struggle 
 which resulted in the complete overthrow of the Mexi- 
 can power in Texas. The dinner itself was excellent 
 — I might almost say sumptuous. The “ bill of fare” 
 did not display that varied list of French inventions to 
 be found at the noted St. Charles Hotel, in New-Or- 
 leans, or the Astor House, in New-York ; but we had 
 roast beef, turkey, and good appetites, and the whole 
 affair went otf with the greatest eclat. 
 
 After the “ cloth was removed” — a performance which 
 it took but about two minutes to execute, as there was 
 nothing to do save to stow the bowls, plates, and spoons 
 away in the corners — after this was done, the celebra- 
 tion of the great anniversary began in real earnest. 
 The regular toasts were appropriate, the volunteers 
 spirited, and the ode a very creditable piece, and given 
 with much effect. An oration by Major Bonnell, one 
 of the prisoners, followed, Dr. Brenham and several 
 other gentlemen also making some very pertinent re- 
 marks. As the hours wore along, and the liquor circu- 
 lated more freely, the hilarity and general good feeling 
 increased. Some of the foreigners present placed the 
 chains of the prisoners around their own ankles, and 
 several fancy jigs and hornpipes were executed with 
 jingling and clanking accompaniments. “ Hail Colum- 
 bia” and the “ Star-spangled Banner,” in addition to 
 the Texan patriotic songs, were duly honoured by nu- 
 merous voices, while the memory of Washington was 
 drunk standing and uncovered. Even the younger 
 Mexican officers took part in a celebration which to 
 
310 
 
 ITS WELCOME SEdUEL. 
 
 them must have been strange, drinking several toasts 
 which were highly complimentary to the Texans. 
 
 It was not until dark that the joyous festivities ceas- 
 ed, and even after the prisoners were locked in their 
 room for the night, wild catches of song and uproari- 
 ous merriment helped still farther to enliven the scene. 
 While Santa Anna, at his palace in one part of the city, 
 was doubtless brooding over his misfortunes on the fa- 
 tal field of San Jacinto, a crowd of jovial Texan pris- 
 oners were celebrating that very victory in another 
 part, and in chains. 
 
 CHAPTER XYI. 
 
 Intelligence of immediate Release. — Its Effect. — Close of the Celebration. — 
 Night Visiters at Santiago. — Arrival of Mr. Ellis with an Order for our 
 Release. — The old Blacksmith again. — His Services dispensed with. — 
 Once more free from Chains. — Leave Santiago and Imprisonment. — Cheers 
 of the Texans at our Departure. — Congratulations of the young Mexican 
 Officers. — Another night Ride through Mexico. — Encounter with a re- 
 ligious Procession. — Arrival at the United States Legation. — The Gran 
 Sociedad. — Comfortable Quarters. — Sleep impossible. — Change of Cir- 
 cumstances. — The Watchwords of Mexico. — Encounter with a Sentinel. 
 — Early Morn in Mexico. — Strange Cries.— “ Carbon.” — Appearance of 
 the Streets. — Picture of morning Life in Mexico. — Change of Wardrobe. 
 — Visit to a French Barber. — A Shearing and Shaving Operation. — Im- 
 provement in personal Appearance. — Beggars in front of a Church. — De- 
 scription of the wretched Throng. — Return to the Gran Sociedad. — A 
 sumptuous Breakfast. — Visit to the British Minister, Mr. Pakenham. — 
 Once more in Santiago. — Mexican Girls. — Visit to our old Quarters at San 
 Lazaro. — Bribing a Sentinel. — Meeting with the Texans and Lepers. — 
 Call at the Dwelling of a Mexican Lady, an old Friend. — Her musical At- 
 tainments. — Anecdote of her Spirit and Patriotism. 
 
 In the very midst of the celebration, and while the 
 rejoicing was at its height, Mr. Coolidge called upon 
 me with the intelligence that I was to be liberated im- 
 
ASSURANCE OF LIBERATION. 
 
 311 
 
 mediately — in fact, that the order for my release was 
 already given, and only awaited certain signatures to 
 be carried into effect. This gentleman, in company 
 with a number of Americans, had been at the palace 
 of Santa Anna when Mr. Ellis took his leave and Gen- 
 eral Thompson presented his credentials and was duly 
 received as the Minister Plenipotentiary of the United 
 States. At this audience, Mr. Coolidge informed me, 
 Santa Anna formally assured Mr. Ellis that he should 
 give up to him young Howard, Sully, and myself, with 
 four of the prisoners at Puebla who had claimed Amer- 
 ican protection. With a cunning characteristic of the 
 Provisional President, he now saw that he had an op- 
 portunity to dispose of us without compromising his 
 honour and dignity, and, placing our liberation in the 
 light of a personal favour to Mr. Ellis, had consented 
 to give us up to that gentleman. Santa Anna is never 
 caught without some loop-hole through which to crawl 
 when closely cornered. 
 
 The time had been when news that I was to be im- 
 mediately released, coming in shape so authentic, would 
 have filled me with sensations the most pleasing — now 
 I received it with an indifference which even to myself 
 appeared unaccountable. It may be that the numerous 
 false hopes that had been held out to me partly induced 
 this unconcern, for I should most certainly have re- 
 ceived a present of a box of cigars with more pleasure ; 
 but the principal reason was, that I felt perfectly confi- 
 dent of making my escape within a few hours, or days 
 at farthest. I say that I felt confident — I was certain 
 of being free from chains and imprisonment immediate- 
 ly, and through my own individual exertions, and this 
 certainly begat indifference to any other means. An- 
 other thing, which in some measure served to alloy the 
 
312 
 
 AN AGREEABLE VISIT. 
 
 cup of happiness, was the circumstance that we under- 
 stood our liberation was granted, not as a right, but as 
 a personal favour. We all had that pride of country 
 which induced us to hope that our government would 
 peremptorily and unconditionally demand our release, 
 and were every way prepared to bide the issue, be it 
 what it might. We knew the people of our native 
 land, and knowing them, felt confident that our wrongs 
 would, if persisted in, sooner or later be redressed. 
 
 The door of our prison, on the night of the celebra- 
 tion, was locked a little after the usual hour, yet the re- 
 joicing still continued. As the hours sped along, the 
 prisoners, one by one, rolled themselves in their blan- 
 kets upon the stone floor, and soon fell asleep. Suffering 
 from a cold and slight headache at the time, I had fol- 
 lowed their example and was already in a half doze, 
 when a sound was heard at the door as of a key slow- 
 ly turning in the lock. This was between nine and 
 ten o’clock, and the unusual circumstance of a visit at 
 that hour not only awoke such of the prisoners as were 
 asleep, but induced all to begin fastening the chains 
 about their ankles and take the necessary precautions 
 in case the old commandante had chosen that strange 
 hour to look in upon us. I had not taken off my irons 
 on lying down — why I know not — so that my “ toilet 
 was made” for the reception of any company that might 
 call at our quarters. 
 
 The door at length slowly opened, and the old com- 
 mandante, accompanied by Mr. Ellis, Mr. Mayer, and 
 two or three of the Mexican officers on duty at the 
 convent, entered our prison. On seeing Mr. Mayer at 
 an hour so unusual, I at once felt assured that I was to 
 be released. He introduced me to Mr. Ellis, and after- 
 ward made him acquainted with Colonel Cooke and 
 
FREE AT LAST. 
 
 313 
 
 several of the Texan officers ; and as he looked around 
 him, as he heard the clanking of chains, and beheld 
 such numbers of his countrymen in plight so mortify- 
 ing and degrading, the kind-hearted minister was deep- 
 ly affected. 
 
 He had brought the order for the release of Howard, 
 Sully, and myself, and the old commandante had order- 
 ed a blacksmith to accompany him for the purpose of 
 releasing us from the irons. Sully soon extricated him- 
 self without assistance, but with young Howard the 
 case was different. His chain was almost the only one 
 so securely fastened that it could not be got off without 
 difficulty, and the old blacksmith was compelled to 
 hammer away upon his anvil several minutes before 
 the task was accomplished. I well knew that a single 
 shake of my foot would release my ankle from the an- 
 noying load of iron ; but anxious to astonish the Mexi- 
 cans a little, even at this time, I allowed the blacksmith 
 to place his anvil in a position near me. On his point- 
 ing to my ankle, and making signs that he was ready 
 to perform the kind office of relieving me, I gave my 
 foot a slight shake, which sent the chain clanking across 
 the floor. The rivet, which had but partially confined 
 it, fell near me. I quietly picked it up and put it in 
 my pocket, determined to have some memento of San- 
 tiago and imprisonment more lasting than mere recol- 
 lection, should that ever fail me. If the old command- 
 ante of the convent, in taking an account of stock, 
 should happen to miss one of his rivets, he can charge 
 the same to me. 
 
 In a few minutes, after promising to call upon our 
 Texan friends on the following day, we left the lock-up 
 room of Santiago, the prisoners giving three hearty 
 cheers as we crossed the threshold. At the outer door 
 
 VOL. II.— D D 
 
314 
 
 HOPE OF A SPEEDY RELEASE. 
 
 the young Mexican officers crowded around us, cor- 
 dially congratulating us upon our release, and express- 
 ing the warmest wishes that our still imprisoned com- 
 rades might soon be permitted to accompany us. From 
 their actions, it appeared that our liberation gave them 
 emotions even as pleasurable as our own. 
 
 Mr. Ellis had procured a coach to convey us to the 
 city, which we now entered in company with himself 
 and Mr. Mayer. Several buildings were passed which 
 I recollected having seen, a few nights before, while on 
 the gloomy midnight trip from San Lazaro to Santiago. 
 On entering one of the main streets of Mexico we met 
 a long religious procession, preceded by bells and lights, 
 and probably on its way to perform some funeral ser- 
 vice. Our postillion reined up his mules, and uncover- 
 ing our heads, we remained still until the last stragglers 
 had passed. A drive of some half a mile now brought 
 us to the apartments of Mr. Ellis, at the United States 
 Legation, in a street immediately in the rear of the ca- 
 thedral and within a stone’s throw of the great palace 
 whence come all the decrees and vaunting proclama- 
 tions sent forth to the Mexican people, and which has 
 been the scene of revolutions innumerable. At the 
 rooms of Mr. Ellis we found several of our countrymen 
 collected, all congratulating us upon our happy release. 
 Our next movement was to the Gran Sociedad, a large 
 establishment where Mr. Mayer had provided rooms 
 for our accommodation. I had intended to take lodg- 
 ings at the Casa de Diligencias, or Stage Hotel, but my 
 kind friends would not listen to any such arrangement. 
 
 Once in comfortable quarters at the Gran Sociedad, 
 free again and at liberty to do as it might please me, 1 
 passed some two or three hours in reading a file ot 
 American newspapers which had just been received 
 
FREEDOM A FOE TO SLEEP. 
 
 315 
 
 At a late hour I retired to rest, but not to sleep. From 
 the 15th of September to the 21st of April, more than 
 seven months, I had been a prisoner — I had performed 
 a toilsome and painful march exceeding two thousand 
 miles — I had seen my comrades inhumanly butchered 
 around me, had seen them die from exposure, from 
 hardship, and from sickness — I had passed through an 
 endless variety of scenes the most exciting ; yet all this 
 time I had slept well, except when illness or severe in- 
 clemency of weather prevented it. Now I had liberty 
 and every comfort at my command, but sleep would 
 not visit my eyelids. The very quiet around me, in- 
 stead of being a provocative of slumber, seemed to 
 keep me awake. I missed the hard stone or earthen 
 floors, the knowledge that comrades were strewn close 
 around me, the clanking of chains — the very groans of 
 the unfortunate lazarinos were wanting. I missed, too, 
 the eternal cries of our guard — the “ centinela alerta !” 
 the “ quien vive ?” and “ que genie ?”* which had rung 
 
 * These are the common watchwords of sentinels on duty in Mexico. If 
 any one approaches, the sentinel shouts aloud “ quien vive?” — who lives, or, 
 rather, who comes ? The answer expected is “ Republica ” — the Republic. 
 The guard next cries “ que gente ?” — what people ? — the party addressed, if a 
 friend, being expected to answer “ paisano ” — a countryman. Not a little 
 startled is the stranger, on arriving in Mexico, as he hears these watchwords 
 ringing around him — I know that on one occasion, to use a nautical phrase, 
 I “was thrown all aback” by the cry. I was passing the palace at a late 
 hour of the night, not a living being within sight or hearing, and no sound 
 breaking the stillness save that dull and heavy echo which follows every 
 footfall upon a pavement. I had approached within six or eight yards of a 
 sentry-box, standing directly in front of the palace, when a sentinel, who 
 was probably asleep, suddenly awoke, and bringing his musket to a present, 
 in a hurried manner gave the well-known “ quien vive ?” So sudden were 
 his movements that I was even more astonished than himself. I flourished 
 a cane which I held in my hand around my head, as if to ward off his mus- 
 ket, should he level it, and not thinking of the proper answer immediately, 
 ejaculated “ An Englishman !” Whether he understood me or not I am un 
 able to say — I passed on without farther molestation or hinderance. It may 
 
316 
 
 AN UNMUSICAL ITINERANT* 
 
 in our ears until the grating sounds had fairly become 
 so many lullabies. Thoughts of home, of liberty, of 
 once more visiting the friends and scenes of other days, 
 came crowding and jostling each other through my 
 mind in such rapid succession that my head was in a 
 very whirl of excitement. Tired nature at length 
 achieved the mastery, however, and towards morning 
 I fell asleep. 
 
 At an early hour, and before the sun was yet up, I 
 was awakened from my dreamy slumbers by a distress- 
 ing and most doleful cry in the street, apparently under 
 the window of the second story in which I lodged. To 
 me the sounds resembled those of some unfortunate 
 human being, suffering pain the most acute — so piteous 
 were the cries, that I could not but think some poor 
 fellow had been knocked down and run over by a 
 coach, or met with some serious hurt, and with broken 
 limbs was groaning aloud for assistance. Arising at 
 once, I opened a glass door and stepped out upon the 
 small balcony which is to be seen under the windows 
 of the better houses in Mexico. No creature whose 
 appearance indicated pain or distress could I discover, 
 as I ran my eye up and down the street and along the 
 side-walks on either side. Whence could the accents 
 of suffering proceed ? In the street, immediately under 
 the balcony, stood a swarthy, badly-dressed, half Indian 
 half Mexican charcoal vender, his entire stock in trade 
 strapped to his back in a large, square basket. Not the 
 
 appear singular that I called myself “ an Englishman to account for it I 
 would state that on that very evening I had been told by an American, while 
 conversing as to the greater respect entertained in Mexico for the English 
 than for our own countrymen, that he invariably “ hailed from England” 
 whenever asked as to his origin. With this true but mortifying remark fresh 
 in my memory, and in my haste to say something, I gave the sentinel that 
 
 answer. 
 
A MORNING SCENE. 
 
 317 
 
 most remote suspicion had I that he was the author of 
 the piteous cries, which had first startled me from re- 
 pose, until the fellow raised his dark but subdued eyes 
 to the balcony where I was standing, and drawled out 
 a word which, with the key attached to his back, I now 
 understood to be “ carbon ” — charcoal. Had it not been 
 that I could plainly see the charcoal, I certainly never 
 should have suspected the meaning of the strange 
 sounds he uttered or his calling. In giving articulation 
 to the word “ carbon” alone, the crier had run through 
 the entire scale, and really used notes enough to form 
 an Italian bravura of no inconsiderable complication. 
 Those who have visited Mexico must have been struck, 
 at first, with the strange and most discordant cries 
 which assailed their ears immediately after daylight. 
 
 The morning was bright, beautiful, and balmy — the 
 ushering in of one of those delightful days of spring-time 
 known only in the dry, pure climate of the Mexican 
 tierras templadas — and I lingered upon the balcony to 
 survey the scene below and around me. Crowds of 
 women, of every class and nearly every shade, were 
 seen either going to or returning from mass at the dif- 
 ferent churches, their rebosos or mantillas coquettishly 
 covering their heads and necks, their gait inimitably 
 graceful, while their brilliant yet languishing black eyes 
 were wandering from object to object with those indo- 
 lent but expressive and voluptuous glances which go 
 straight to the heart — Castilian, but indescribable. Wa- 
 ter carriers, with their large jars strapped to their heads, 
 were hurrying to serve their morning customers. Fel- 
 lows stooping and staggering under the weight of huge 
 coops filled with chickens, strapped to their backs after 
 the fashion of the charcoal baskets, were visiting the 
 houses of their daily patrons — threading and jostling 
 D d 2 
 
318 
 
 A DIVERSIFIED SPECTACLE. 
 
 their way through the crowds of females who at this 
 early hour thronged the principal thoroughfares, and 
 crying aloud their calling as they passed. Fair doncel- 
 las, whose complexion bespoke their pure Spanish blood, 
 were tripping along, followed closely by ancient and 
 vinegar-faced duenas, whose calling it was to prevent 
 the charge intrusted to them by prudent mothers from 
 falling in love or running away. Fruitmen and wom- 
 en, with immense baskets of luscious oranges, melons, 
 sweet limes, bananas, and zapotes resting upon their 
 heads, were hastening towards their stands at the 
 market-places. Mexican girls, apparently half dressed, 
 were watering the plants and flowers with which the 
 opposite and adjoining balconies were adorned, while 
 inside a window, seated cross-legged upon the floor and 
 in dishabille exceeding loose and slight to say the least 
 of it, was a young lady quietly sipping her chocolate, 
 ever and anon turning her dark eyes with a dreamy 
 expression towards the spot where I was standing, my 
 presence not seeming in the least to disconcert her. 
 Priests, with their long, shovel hats, monks, gentlemen, 
 leperos, friars, mendicants, sisters of different charitable 
 and religious orders, were mingled with the heteroge- 
 neous currents of people below me — and as if to diver- 
 sify a scene already strikingly singular in the eyes of a 
 foreigner, a gang of ragged forzados* from some of the 
 prisons, strongly chained and securely guarded, were 
 sweeping or mending a street-crossing close at hand. 
 Far off, in the distance, a string of the voluntarios of 
 whom I have often made mention — convicts tied togeth- 
 er, and on their way to som e presidio to be manufactured 
 into soldiers — were seen escorted onward by a detach- 
 
 * Literally galley-slaves, but by a free translation made to denote men 
 forced to work against their will. 
 
RENOVATION. 
 
 319 
 
 ment of dragoons : to enliven and still farther to varv the 
 scene, a troop of cavalry, preceded by a dashing and 
 showy officer and such music as a badly-blown trumpet 
 produces, were riding past. Such were the strangely- 
 assorted figures and groups which composed the pic- 
 ture spread before me the first morning after my liber- 
 ation, and I continued to gaze until Mr. Mayer called 
 at my door with inquiries as to whether I had passed as 
 comfortable, as agreeable, and as quiet a night as I did 
 while in San Lazaro, or more recently in Santiago. 
 
 That my wardrobe, after a seven months’ imprison- 
 ment and a journey of three or four months without a 
 trunk or portmanteau, was scanty enough, may be read- 
 ily imagined ; but my friend at once kindly offered me 
 the free use of his, and I soon found myself arrayed in 
 habiliments more befitting my new position. The pur- 
 chase of a hat, at a shop in the Portales close by, still 
 farther improved my outward man, and the patronage 
 I bestowed upon a shoemaker in the neighbourhood, to 
 the extent of a pair of boots, advanced the work of 
 thorough change and renovation I had commenced. 
 One thing was still wanting — my face required an in- 
 troduction to a barber. While a prisoner, I had en- 
 deavoured to make myself as little like myself as possi- 
 ble, firmly convinced that I should recover my liberty 
 in no other way than by escaping : in order, therefore, 
 to disguise myself completely, I had assiduously culti- 
 vated whiskers, mustaches, and hair enough for a for- 
 eign prince, or even the Great Mogul himself. Now I 
 had no farther use for these appendages, and to be re- 
 lieved of them as speedily as possible I inquired the way 
 to a French hair-dresser’s in the Plateros, or street in 
 which the gold and silver smiths, fancy and jewelry 
 dealers, milliners and barbers pursue their different call- 
 
320 
 
 MEXICAN BEGGARS. 
 
 ings. No sooner had I passed through the hands of a 
 lively and chattering but polite little Frenchman, than 
 such was the change that I hardly knew myself. True, 
 my acquaintance with my own face, for the previous 
 eleven months, had been extremely limited, looking- 
 glasses not being in common use among Texan cam- 
 paigners or prisoners ; but I had had an occasional op- 
 portunity of obtaining a glimpse of myself, and now that 
 I had undergone the shearing and shaving operation, the 
 alteration wrought in my personal appearance was not 
 only astonishing, but, I am inclined to believe, altogeth- 
 er in my favour. 
 
 While retracing my steps towards the Gran Sociedad, 
 I passed a large church, in front of which a crowd of 
 wretched beggars had already taken their stand. Such 
 an assortment of mendicants I had never before seen 
 collected — such squalid misery as the mass presented — 
 and although dreading contact with the unclean and 
 hideous mendigos, I could not resist pausing for a few 
 moments to examine the different characters. There 
 were the lame, the halt, and the blind — sickly and dis- 
 torted childhood, decrepit and palsied old age. A de- 
 formed living skeleton, with a face of bluish, ashy pale- 
 ness, and borne in the arms of a strong man who doubt- 
 less divided such small pittance of copper as the ghast- 
 ly object received, was stretching forth its shrivelled 
 and skinny arms to every passer. Armless and legless 
 objects, so dressed that their crippled situation must at 
 once strike every beholder, were beseeching alms in ac- 
 cents most piteous. Mothers were holding deformed, 
 rickety, pale, and sightless children up to the public 
 gaze, imploring the prayers and blessings of every saint 
 in the long calendar upon such as would give to their 
 unfortunate offspring a single claco. Wretched crip- 
 
ARTIFICIAL LAZARINOS. 
 
 321 
 
 pies, their arms and legs contracted and twisted out of 
 all shape, were peering, with bloodshot eyes and hag- 
 gard faces, at the current of pedestrians as they passed, 
 a gleam of satisfaction almost demoniacal lighting up 
 their countenances as some more charitable person 
 would throw a copper into their hands. No disguise, 
 no concealment of their deformities, was attempted — on 
 the contrary, it seemed as though a full exposure of 
 their crippled limbs and repulsive distortions was the 
 aim of all — as though they were expressly “ got up” to 
 set off their natural hideousness in the strongest possible 
 light. Such is but a hurried picture of a portion of the 
 miserable mendicants congregated in the vicinity of the 
 church, and it was not without a shudder that I turned into 
 a short street leading to my quarters. In former times 
 the lepers of the city were allowed the privilege of beg- 
 ging, and it was even considered fortunate when a poor 
 family numbered a lazarino in its fold. The wretch 
 thus afflicted was paraded daily at some conspicuous 
 stand, directly in the way of the passers, and the alms 
 he or she was sure to receive would feed, clothe, and 
 support a large family in idleness. Finding the number 
 of lazarinos on the increase, or rather shrewdly suspect- 
 ing that many of the wretches were but counterfeits, 
 made up by the use of blisters and other applications, 
 the city government ordered every one known to be 
 afflicted with the disease to San Lazaro, there to be 
 provided for ; but this course was not resorted to until 
 both foreigners and the most respectable Mexicans had 
 openly complained of the increase of the repulsive ob- 
 jects to be met at every turn, and the disgrace they 
 brought upon the city. This was the story I heard in re- 
 lation to the banishment of the lepers to San Lazaro — if 
 it be true, their places have since been filled by wretches 
 
322 
 
 A CIVILIZED BREAKFAST. 
 
 wanting but little to make them equally loathsome in 
 appearance, and equally objects of pity. 
 
 Before I reached the Gran Sociedad, I. met several 
 small parties of soldiers. A moment’s reflection told 
 me that I was free, and no longer subject to their watch- 
 ful control ; yet I could not feel altogether at ease in 
 close proximity with these fellows. I was in moment- 
 ary expectation, although there was not the least cause 
 for it, that some one of them would lay his hand upon 
 my shoulders, and ask me how it happened that I was 
 “ out without a guard and several days elapsed before 
 I could divest myself of the idea that I was still in some 
 way a prisoner — before I could feel and believe that I 
 was indeed at liberty. 
 
 An excellent breakfast was served up immediately 
 after my return to the Gran Sociedad, Mr. Ellis and 
 several other gentlemen being already in attendance to 
 partake of it. Most ample justice did I and the two 
 companions of my recent imprisonment to the rich and 
 dainty viands, for it was now almost a year since we 
 had seen a meal so inviting spread before us, and hard- 
 ly half a dozen times within that year had we seen all 
 those trifling necessaries known in civilized countries as 
 knives, forks, spoons, chairs, a table, and other useful 
 and comfortable et casteras, considered by the majority 
 of my readers, perhaps, indispensable in every well- 
 regulated household. Our coffee-, too, was of rich qual- 
 ity and flavour, while excellent claret was cooled by ice 
 brought from the adjoining snow-capped mountains. 
 The remembrance of these luxuries, trifling as they 
 might have appeared had I never been deprived of 
 them, still clings to me. Those, and those only, who 
 have for months spent their time upon the prairies, and 
 amid scenes kindred to those through which we had 
 
VISIT TO THE PRISONERS. 
 
 323 
 
 passed, are able to appreciate the fall blessings of civi- 
 lization and the thousand and one comforts which be- 
 fore they heeded not. 
 
 When breakfast was over, I called upon Mr. Paken- 
 ham, the English minister, in company with Mr. Mayer. 
 Two or three of my fellow-prisoners had claimed Brit- 
 ish protection, and I wished to relate to the minister of 
 their government, in person, some of the circumstances 
 connected with their arrest and imprisonment, which 
 would show the justice of their claims in the strongest 
 possible light. I found Mr. Pakenham a plain and un- 
 ostentatious but agreeable and gentlemanly man, dispo- 
 sed to aid his countrymen in every way. A few days 
 after this visit, through his intercession, my friends were 
 released. 
 
 A small party of us, procuring one of the heavy 
 coaches of the city, next visited Santiago — the misera- 
 ble quarters from which we had been removed the night 
 before. So great had been the change wrought in my 
 appearance by Mr. Mayer’s wardrobe, aided by the 
 French barber in the Plateros, that many of my former 
 fellow-prisoners with difficulty recognised me — a cir- 
 cumstance I mention as showing how thoroughly I 
 could have disguised myself had I attempted the escape 
 which I contemplated. After promising the unfortu- 
 nate fellows another visit, we again turned our backs 
 upon Santiago, but before entering the coach a couple 
 of Mexican girls came running towards us to offer their 
 congratulations upon our release. These kind-hearted 
 creatures were of the lower class, fruit girls, who had 
 formed strong attachments for two of the Texan pris- 
 oners, and who never left the vicinity of Santiago du- 
 ring the day. Wherever the prisoners were taken they 
 were to be seen, carrying their blankets, washing and 
 
324 
 
 VISIT TO SAN LAZARO. 
 
 mending their clothes, and performing every act of 
 kindness within their power. They now not only ap- 
 peared much rejoiced at our liberation, but pressed us 
 with questions as to the probability of the other prison- 
 ers being shortly released. After flattering them with 
 hopes we were but too fearful would prove false, we 
 put some silver into their hands, and then returned to 
 the city to dine. 
 
 In the afternoon, after I had purchased several little 
 articles of clothing of which I knew my companions in 
 San Lazaro to be sadly in need, and adding a few bun- 
 dles of puros with which they might beguile the dreary 
 hours of their imprisonment, a small party of us rode 
 out to that establishment. The sergeant of the guard at 
 first positively denied us admission, saying that express 
 orders to that effect had been received; but a dollar 
 stealthily slipped into his hand, not only opened his 
 heart, but the hospital doors at once. The steward of 
 the establishment next made some objections to our en- 
 trance into the interior — but one of my companions, 
 who spoke his language fluently, soon overcame his 
 scruples, and we were permitted to pass without farther 
 hindrance. 
 
 As I entered the long and gloomy hall in which I had 
 passed some two months, the unfortunate lepers came 
 hobbling from their cots, crowded around me, and at 
 the same time expressed not a little satisfaction at see- 
 ing me in the possession of liberty. My former Texan 
 companions, too, were overjoyed to see me once more ; 
 for the strange and unseasonable hour chosen for my 
 removal, the strong guard that accompanied me from 
 San Lazaro, combined with the appearance of the litter 
 and the mystery in which the whole affair was shroud- 
 ed, had raised suspicions in their minds that I had at 
 
A MEXICAN SENOEA. 
 
 325 
 
 least been thrown into one of the lowest of the Mexican 
 prisons, if no worse fate had befallen me. I believe 
 that they were entirely ignorant of all the circumstances 
 until I called upon them in person. After distributing 
 our little presents, and promising to make them another 
 visit, we left the hospital, the sergeant hurrying our de- 
 parture. Whether the fellow thought we had got our 
 dollar’s worth, or whether he washed a farther bribe, is 
 known only to himself. 
 
 Our next call was at the house of a Mexican lady — 
 the same who had visited me while in San Lazaro, and 
 who had sent me the present of fish I have mentioned 
 in a former chapter. She informed me that she had 
 heard something of my good fortune with pleasure, and 
 was now doubly gratified that I had called upon her 
 thus early to confirm the report of my release. At 
 home, we found the sefiora a lively creature, chatty and 
 of most agreeable manners, with a dashing, spirited way 
 of expressing herself peculiarly pointed. An anecdote 
 is told of her which goes far to show her character. 
 During one of the more recent revolutions which have 
 distracted Mexico, two or three gentlemen w r ho had 
 espoused the cause she favoured sought refuge, during 
 a turn in affairs against them, in her house, anxious to 
 escape the dangers to be encountered in the streets. So 
 far as mere words went, they were most zealous and 
 unflinching supporters and advocates of certain princi- 
 ples ; but w'hen blows came and balls whistled, the} 
 w r ere not to be seen at the post of peril. Their party had 
 met wdth various reverses, and, as they thought, every- 
 thing was going directly against them, when suddenly 
 the roar of cannon and the rattling of musketry without 
 convinced them that their fighting friends were once 
 more struggling manfully for the ascendancy. “ Those 
 
 VoL. II. — E E 
 
326 
 
 A SPIRITED WOMAN. 
 
 are our cannon ! those are our cannon !” shouted one of 
 the inflated patriots from his hiding-place, at the same 
 time clapping his hands and skipping for joy. “ Now we 
 are gaining ground again !” 
 
 “ We /” retorted the spirited seiiora, with ineffable 
 scorn. “ Fine patriots, you, to be sneaking and skulk- 
 ing here, among a parcel of women, when your friends 
 are bravely exposing themselves in the streets for the 
 principles you are so loud-mouthed in advocating, but 
 which you have not the courage to stand up and pro- 
 tect. Would that I were a man. You would see me 
 at those cannon whose music so delights your ears — 
 not secreted among helpless women, and spending my 
 time and breath in idle words. If those are your can- 
 non, why don’t you go and help work them, like true 
 patriots and brave men ?” 
 
 Such was the character given us of the seiiora, and 
 I certainly passed a very agreeable hour at her house. 
 Not a little is she celebrated in Mexico as a singer, and 
 on this occasion she favoured us with a number of 
 Spanish ballads in style most exquisite, accompanying 
 her rich and powerful voice on the piano. The visit 
 over, I returned once more to the Gran Sociedad, amid 
 a shower of rain which flooded the streets, and at an 
 early hour retired to try what success I could have in 
 sleeping the second night after my liberation. 
 
BEGGARS EARLY AT WORK. 
 
 327 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 An early Morning Walk. — Beggars at their Work. — The Plaza Mayor. — The 
 Cathedral and Stone of the Calendar.— Strange Belief. — Interior of the 
 Cathedral. — Its Appearance. — Filthy State of the Establishment. — Agency 
 of a Pair of new Boots in preventing an Examination of the Cathedral. — 
 Shops of the Portales. — The Streets of Mexico. — Another Visit to Santia- 
 go. — The “True Blue.” — More of Lieutenant Hull. — Encounter with 
 Major Howard. — His Disguise. — Particulars of the daring Escape of Cap- 
 tain Hudson and Major Howard. — -The Italian Opera. — Castellan. — An- 
 other Encounter with Major Howard. — Farther Particulars of his Escape. 
 — Temerity of Captain Hudson. — Mexican Pickpockets. — Their Dexterity. 
 — Mexican Modes of Salutation. — Cordiality of Greeting. — Anecdote of a 
 Meeting with a fair Mexican. — The Mystery solved. — An excellent Trait 
 in Mexican Character. — Hospitality of the Lower and Middle Classes. — 
 Their Benevolence towards the Sick. — The present Priesthood in Mexico. 
 —Domestic Relations of the Padres. — Influence of the Priests. — Their Re- 
 luctance in resigning Power. 
 
 With body and mind strengthened and refreshed I 
 arose the next morning, for although some of the ob- 
 jects and scenes I had beheld during the day passed in 
 review before the eye of the slumbering mind, my sleep 
 had been sound and unbroken. Hastily dressing, as I 
 had resolved upon attending early mass, I descended to 
 the street and took the direction towards one of the 
 principal churches. 
 
 The beggars of Mexico must be an industrious class, 
 and very early risers, for before even the sun had made 
 his appearance I found them up and stirring — many of 
 them already at their stands in front of the religious es- 
 tablishments to be met at almost every turn, and with 
 outstretched arms reciting their well-conned prayers for 
 charity. Determined upon going to the celebrated ca- 
 thedral at once, as the headquarters where I should 
 probably see more than at any other place devoted to 
 
328 
 
 STONE OF THE CALENDAR. 
 
 the showy religion of the inhabitants, I passed two or 
 three churches of most imposing appearance with mere- 
 ly an examination of their exteriors. A short walk 
 brought me to the Plaza Mayor, or principal square, on 
 the eastern side of which, and surmounted by two or- 
 namented towers, rises the noble Cathedral of Mexico 
 I paused, for a few moments, to examine the great 
 Stone of the Calendar, resting against the southwestern 
 corner of the cathedral. It is of immense size, weigh- 
 ing more than twenty tons, the entire face of it sculp- 
 tured with strange, but well-executed hieroglyphics. 
 By means of the carved figures upon this stone — some 
 twelve of which, it is pretended, represent the signs of 
 the zodiac — the ancient inhabitants are said to have di- 
 vided and computed time — the years into months, 
 weeks, and days, and the latter into hours — and even to 
 this day the traveller is told, and with much appearance 
 of sincerity, that the ignorant Indians can tell the hour 
 of the day to a minute by examining this singular calen- 
 dar. They might as well say that the natives can tell 
 the time by consulting the face of a common burr mill- 
 stone, or a pair of hay-scales. 
 
 Satisfied that I could make nothing of the hiero- 
 glyphics, which were every way as unintelligible as the 
 figures on a Chinese tea-chest, I turned and entered the 
 cathedral. The walls, paintings, statues, balustrades, 
 and different ornaments, were rich even to magnifi- 
 cence — the floor dirty, covered with kneeling groups 
 of all classes and conditions at their devotions — while 
 an odour, disagreeable and prison-like, caused by the 
 filthiness characteristic of all Mexican churches, per- 
 vaded the spacious and imposing interior, perceptible 
 even above the fumes of burning incense. Dogs were 
 either lying asleep in different parts, or walking about 
 
BAFFLED BY BOOTS. 
 
 329 
 
 so noiselessly that it almost seemed as though they were 
 fearful of disturbing the deep stillness of the immense 
 apartment — a stillness broken only by the hum of half- 
 muttered prayers and the low pealing of an organ the 
 position of which I could not discover. Anxious to ex- 
 amine the farthest recesses of the cathedral, to note its 
 paintings, statues, gilding, costly panelling, and exceed- 
 ing richness of adornment, I dolled my hat and ad- 
 vanced towards the interior. The first step I took 
 drew the eyes of those immediately in front towards 
 me ; the second attracted the attention of a still greater 
 number of the kneeling worshippers. I now found that 
 the boots I had purchased tlje day before were yet un- 
 broken, and sent up a loud creak from the stone floor 
 at every step. I attempted to advance on tiptoe — the 
 creaking seemed to grow louder the more I endeavour- 
 ed to prevent it. I paused, with the hope that I might 
 advance under cover of the noise made by the arrival 
 of a party of fresh worshippers who were approaching 
 — they were either barefooted, or else their well-worn 
 shoes gave forth no sound. One more attempt I made ; 
 but it was as unsuccessful as the others — every step 
 appeared to draw additional attention, and even the 
 dogs seemed to eye me rebukingly as a disturber of the 
 solemn stillness which reigned around. It may seem a 
 simple matter, but I was compelled to put off an exam- 
 ination of this noble establishment solely on account of 
 a pair of new and creaking boots ; for finding that I 
 could not advance without annoying the assembled con- 
 gregation, I retraced my steps and left the cathedral as 
 quietly and silently as possible. 
 
 By this time the stores and shops in the Portales, on 
 the opposite side of the plaza, were open, the gay Mex- 
 ican sarapes and other gaudy merchandise displayed in 
 E e 2 
 
330 
 
 A PRISON NEWSPAPER. 
 
 front presenting a brilliant and showy appearance. The 
 walls of many of the houses, in this quarter of the city, 
 bear indisputable evidence of the various revolutions 
 which have distracted the country and paralyzed its 
 energies, for the marks of cannon balls are still plainly 
 visible, let the eye range where it will. After getting lost 
 once or twice, and travelling three or four blocks out of 
 my way in consequence of what I conceived to be the 
 wrong directions I received from such of the passers as 
 I asked for information, I finally reached the Gran So- 
 ciedad in season for breakfast. In Mexico the more 
 important and principal streets have a new name for 
 every square — a single straight and continuous thor- 
 oughfare having perhaps a dozen different titles — and 
 hence the difficulty the foreigner at first meets in find- 
 ing a location. 
 
 During the forenoon I made another visit to Santi- 
 ago, in company with several Americans. Before leav- 
 ing the convent, one of the prisoners, a young man named 
 Grover, presented me with a copy of a neatly- written pa- 
 per, published weekly in Santiago, entitled the “ True 
 Blue.” It contained a regular report of the proceedings 
 of the 21st of April — speeches, toasts, songs and all. 
 Among the contributors were Mr. Grover himself, a 
 young man named Mabry, # and others, and, in newspa- 
 
 * I have been told that Mr. Mabry, after his return to Texas, obtained a 
 midshipman’s warrant in the navy of that country, and that he was lost on 
 board the ill-fated war-schooner San Antonio, Captain Seger. It may be re- 
 membered by the reader, that a man with nearly the same name — Mayby — 
 lost his life when Lieutenant Hull was killed, being a member of the unfor- 
 tunate party first massacred by the Caygiias. Since the first volume of this 
 work passed through the hands of the stereotyper, I have learned farther 
 particulars in relation to the melancholy deaths of Lieutenant H. and his 
 men. Mr. Phillips, a young man attached to the Santa Fe Expedition, who 
 saw the whole affair, informs me that the party did not retreat an inch, 
 as I have previously stated, but on the contrary simultaneously threw them- 
 
A FRIEND IN DISGUISE. 
 
 331 
 
 per parlance, the “whole affair was exceedingly well 
 got up.” Again promising our friends another visit be- 
 fore leaving the country, we entered our Mexican coach 
 and returned to our quarters in the city. 
 
 It was while walking through one of the principal 
 and most densely-thronged streets, and in the middle of 
 the day, that I met my old companion, Major Howard, 
 of whose escape from Puebla I had already heard, but 
 of whose present whereabout I was ignorant. He 
 was disguised, it is true ; for his naturally light and 
 curly hair was coloured to a more than Mexican black- 
 ness, and combed and pomatumed down until it lay as 
 straight as a Quaker’s ; yet there was no mistaking his 
 florid complexion and his walk, and I crossed the street 
 and accosted him at once. He informed me that both 
 himself and his companion in escape, Captain Hudson, 
 although a price had been set upon their heads, were 
 then boarding openly at a Mexican meson, as a place 
 where they would be least likely to be suspected or 
 sought, and that they were both determined to see the 
 
 selves from their horses on discovering the approach of the Indians, formed 
 the animals in a circle, and each man knelt inside to await the charge of 
 their enemies. Suddenly, and as if by magic, the Caygiias were on every 
 side, their heavy buffalo-hide shields held before them, and after a short but 
 desperate struggle, the Texarts were overpowered by the fearful odds, and 
 slain. The names of the men thus massacred, in addition to those of Lieu- 
 tenant Hull and Mr. Mayby already mentioned, were Sergeant Flenner, 
 Dunn and Woodson. Many errors, but principally of omission, have of 
 course occurred in this narrative. On leaving Austin, I provided myself 
 with a note-book, in which I entered not only every little incident on each 
 day’s march, but the course, the distance travelled, as near as it could be 
 kept by dead reckoning, with a description of the country, soil, and general 
 appearance. Of this book I was robbed by Salezar, and hence I have been 
 compelled to depend almost entirely upon memory in making up my “ trav- 
 el’s history.” The reader who will but reflect for a moment, will see the 
 disadvantages under which I have laboured, and, I am confident, will over- 
 look and excuse any discrepancies, omissions, or errors which must neces- 
 sarily occur in a work written under the circumstances. 
 
332 
 
 BRAVING DANGER. 
 
 “ sights” in the city before attempting a return to Tex- 
 as or the United States. 
 
 At the Italian Opei'a, whither I had gone to see “ II 
 Templario ,” on the same evening I again met Major 
 Howard, listening to the rich, full voice of the Castel- 
 lan with much apparent satisfaction. Between the acts, 
 in the coffee-room attached to the theatre, I once more 
 met him, in conversation with a Mexican officer, and 
 on taking him aside, and remonstrating with him upon 
 the risk he ran in thus exposing himself, he contended 
 that the best way to avoid suspicion was to frequent 
 the most public places, and mix with the Mexicans 
 themselves. He then gave me a short account of the 
 manner in which himself and his companion effected 
 their escape. On account of either real or feigned, 
 sickness, they had been quartered in the hospital at 
 Puebla, where, for some weeks, they were allowed to 
 visit the town every night upon parole. So long as 
 this privilege was granted them, they had no opportu- 
 nity to escape, as they could not break their faith with 
 the officers who had treated them thus generously ; but 
 on the night in question, through some whim for which 
 they could not account, they were told that they could 
 not leave the hospital walls without a guard of four 
 men. With this guard they sallied into the streets, de- 
 termined not to return if a shadow of opportunity to 
 escape offered. 
 
 They went at once to a restaurat which they had fre- 
 quently visited, their watchful guard attending them. 
 But a short time elapsed before they contrived to turn 
 the attention of the soldiers into an adjoining room, and 
 no sooner was this effected than they slipped through a 
 side door or window, and hastily fled to the house of a 
 generous Mexican with whom they had become ac- 
 
FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BOLD. 333 
 
 quainted. At this place, although a large reward was 
 offered for their apprehension, they remained safely se- 
 creted some ten days. Their next movement was to- 
 wards the city of Mexico, by the regular daily stage. 
 This conveyance they left when within some ten or fif- 
 teen miles of the city, and striking across the country, 
 they were enabled to reach a factory village in safety. 
 Here the foreigners, to whom they made known their 
 situation, provided them with passports to enter the 
 city, and taking one of the canals they were soon com- 
 fortably housed at one of the mesones of the capital. 
 Such are the brief particulars of their daring escape 
 from Puebla and arrival in safety at the city of Mexico. 
 
 If possible, Captain Hudson exposed himself even 
 more than did his comrade. Not content with openly 
 visiting all the walks, curiosities, public amusements, 
 churches, and other general resorts of the population, 
 he clambered into one of the towers of the cathedral, 
 where he either carved or picked his name in the most 
 conspicuous place he could find ; and as if this was not 
 enough, he even added “Of the Texan Santa Fe Pio- 
 neers” at the end of it, and this when a heavy reward 
 was hanging over his head. 
 
 Fortunately both these young men reached the Uni- 
 ted States and Texas in safety, although the risks they 
 were compelled to run were almost incredible. They 
 travelled to the seacoast in the stage, entering Puebla in 
 open day and the hospital from which they had escaped 
 being but a few yards from the Casa de Diligencias 
 where they were obliged to stop and sleep one night. 
 They even saw, standing around the hotel on the arri- 
 val of the stage, several officers with whom they had 
 become well acquainted during a confinement of nearly 
 two months in the place ; but they passed boldly by 
 
334 
 
 MEXICAN PICKPOCKETS. 
 
 them, and under the disguises they had procured were 
 not suspected. Such is a short account of the escape 
 of these officers — an escape well conceived and bravely 
 carried through from first to last. 
 
 After sitting out the opera, which as a whole was 
 well performed, we returned to our quarters. I now 
 found that during the day I had been robbed of two 
 handkerchiefs and a penknife, besides part of a bundle 
 of puros, but how, when, or where was a mystery. I 
 had exercised, as I thought, all due caution — had kept 
 an eye or a hand on my pockets whenever there seem- 
 ed to be the least chance for the light-fingered gentry, 
 who infest churches, theatres, and thoroughfares alike in 
 the great city of Mexico, to ply their calling — but with all 
 my watchfulness I had been eased of evei’ything save 
 a lead pencil, a little loose change which was in my vest 
 pocket, and the clothes on my back. On informing my 
 friends of these depredations, they appeared to think me 
 peculiarly fortunate, inasmuch as to save anything was 
 of itself an exceedingly rare occurrence with a stranger. 
 As a “ general average,” they said that the robbers 
 should at least have taken my hat and what little silver 
 I had ! This was certainly consoling ; but to guard 
 against the ladrones in future I determined upon carry- 
 ing nothing with me that the rascals might covet. The 
 Mexican corlabolsas, or pickpockets, have the name of 
 being the most adroit in the world, and from my little 
 experience I should say they had well earned the repu- 
 tation. At all events, I do not intend to rob them of 
 their foul fame.- 
 
 For three or four days after my release — in fact, 
 during the whole of the time I was in the city at liberty 
 — I was continually meeting with Mexicans of my ac- 
 quaintance — officers who had been attached to our 
 
PLEASANT SALUTATIONS. 
 
 335 
 
 guard at different places. They all appeared much re- 
 joiced on seeing that I had regained my freedom, man- 
 ifesting their pleasure by warmly embracing me, meet 
 me where they would. This custom of throwing the 
 left arm around each other, while the right hands are 
 clasped as with us, is common, I believe, all over 
 Mexico, alike when two men, or two women, or two 
 of the opposite sexes meet who are well acquainted ; 
 and perhaps this cordial mode of reception from the fe- 
 males of the country may be considered as one of the 
 strongest of thoge ties which certainly bind the Amer- 
 icans and English to the land of Montezuma. The 
 cold and phlegmatic Anglo-Saxon, after a residence of 
 some year or two in Mexico, leaves it with regret ; for 
 there is- a grace, an ease, a fascination, and a cordial- 
 ity of greeting among the senoritas of that country 
 which cannot be forgotten. The American or Eng- 
 lishman reflects upon the stiffness and restraint imposed 
 upon the actions of his fair countrywomen by cold, con- 
 ventional rules — he remembers the distant bow, the for- 
 mal shake of the hand, with which he will be greeted 
 on his return, and contrasts them with his daily saluta- 
 tions from the dark-eyed daughters of the sunny land in 
 which he is sojourning. The result is altogether in 
 favour of the latter. 
 
 It is indeed a delightful thing to be ever greeted 
 with the most cordial freedom, when we know that that 
 freedom is entirely removed from forwardness — to have 
 the person encircled by arms which are faultless in form 
 — and a man feels that it is difficult to tear himself away 
 from a people whose manners, in their daily intercourse, 
 are in every respect more full of warmth and kindness 
 than those of his own countrymen, and countrywomen, 
 too ; for while even the men are not wanting in natural 
 
336 
 
 A STREET ADVENTURE. 
 
 and easy politeness, the Mexican senoras have a frank- 
 ness of deportment, a kindness and singleness of dispo- 
 sition, which captivate the natives of colder climes, and 
 frequently did I meet with countrymen whose love for 
 their fatherland had become completely estranged by 
 the fascinations of female society in Mexico. The 
 women of that country, when married to any of the 
 Anglo-Saxon race, have the reputation of making the 
 best and most affectionate wives ; and scattered through 
 Mexico may be found innumerable instances where for- 
 eigners, induced by no other motives than the superior 
 charms and excellent domestic endowments of the 
 women, have settled permanently and are rearing fam- 
 ilies. 
 
 I have been led to these remarks by a little circum- 
 stance which occurred a few mornings after I had re- 
 gained my liberty. While walking at an early hour 
 through one of the principal streets, wondering whence 
 came the incessant current of passers, and staring at 
 the many strange sights which strike the traveller on 
 first visiting one of the most magnificent cities of the 
 world, I noticed a young and pretty girl approaching, who 
 seemed to gaze at me with marked attention. Dressed 
 somewhat after the fashion of the Poblana girls — a cos- 
 tume I have already described — her neat and graceful- 
 ly-worn reboso but partially concealed her head, face, 
 and well-turned shoulders, and I might have bestowed 
 more than an ordinary passing look upon the fair gazer, 
 even had she not so intently eyed me. Her face cer- 
 tainly seemed familiar — like that of one I had previous- 
 ly seen : but in a country where there is so gi’eat a re- 
 semblance between the women — where black hair, dark 
 and lustrous eyes, great regularity of features, and the 
 same fashion of dress are almost universal — it is diffi- 
 
THE AUTHOR PUZZLED. 
 
 337 
 
 cult to recognise a face until one becomes well acquaint- 
 ed. On arriving directly in front of me, the girl paused 
 for a moment, gazing earnestly and intently in my face ; 
 and at a loss what to make of conduct so singular, I 
 also stopped, anxious to see how this pantomime was to 
 end. The last look of the girl seemed to satisfy her ; 
 for suddenly casting her reboso from her shoulders, while 
 it still remained hanging from her head, she threw both 
 arms around my neck with even more than ordinary 
 Mexican abandon, and embraced me with as much cor- 
 diality as though I had been one of her dearest friends 
 or nearest relatives. That she was making herself ex- 
 tremely familiar, on an acquaintance which I felt as- 
 sured must be very limited, was my first impression ; 
 but not to be outdone, either in politeness or cordiality, 
 I too threw my arms around her after her own fashion, 
 and acted, to say the least of it, as though meeting with 
 one of my oldest and most esteemed acquaintances. 
 
 In the streets of New-Orleans or New-York such a 
 meeting would doubtless attract some little attention — 
 not so in Mexico. The passers went by almost with- 
 out deigning to notice us, and glad was I that they did 
 so ; for I could not satisfy my own mind that the open 
 street was altogether a befitting place for the enactment 
 of such a scene. But who was my fair friend, and why 
 did this accidental meeting afford her so much gratifi- 
 cation ? These were questions I now asked myself. I 
 placed a hand on either shoulder of the girl, gently dis- 
 engaged myself, and then intently scrutinized her fea- 
 tures with the hope of recognising one who must cer- 
 tainly be entitled to an acquaintanceship. I had an in- 
 distinct recollection of having seen her somewhere, but 
 at what place or under what circumstances it was im- 
 possible to recall to mind. The girl, however, was far 
 Vol. II. — F F 
 
338 
 
 THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 
 
 from imagining the dilemma I was in, but on the con- 
 trary addressed me with as much familiarity as though 
 we had known each other from childhood, expressing, 
 over and over again, the great pleasure it afforded her 
 to see me once more alive and at liberty, and then al- 
 luding to the time when I was first attacked by the 
 small-pox with not a little feeling. This last remark 
 was a clew to the whole mystery ; for I now at once 
 recollected that she was the sister of one of the ser- 
 geants of our guard,, and had frequently brought her 
 brother his dinner at the place where we were confined 
 when I was ill with the disease I have just spoken of. 
 In common with all the women of the country, she had 
 manifested great solicitude in our behalf, had expressed 
 her ardent hopes that we might all recover our liberty, 
 and in addition to this, had, on several occasions, kindly 
 invited me to partake of such food as she had brought 
 her brother. To repay her, in some way, I had made 
 her a trifling present ; but it was one she had not for- 
 gotten, as was fully proved by the cordial manner in 
 which she greeted me on my first meeting her in the 
 street some two months after.* 
 
 As I was about shaking hands to leave her, for I did 
 not much care about going through another scene quite 
 so familiar as was that at our first meeting, she invited 
 me to visit her at her mother’s residence before leaving 
 the country. With artless simplicity she told me that 
 her relatives were poor — in circumstances humble — but 
 
 * Let not the reader understand that an adventure of this kind — a meeting 
 so cordial — is a common or every-day occurrence in the streets of Mexico, al- 
 though, as I have stated, it seemed to attract little notice from the passers. 
 The girl was probably much astonished and highly pleased to meet with one 
 at liberty whom she had last seen sick and in prison, and in the warmth of 
 her heart threw a greater degree of cordiality into her actions at this first 
 meeting than is common even with the impulsive women of her country. 
 
POOR BUT NOT PROUD. 
 
 339 
 
 that I should be welcome, and that her mother would 
 feel pride if the stranger would but condescend to cross 
 her lowly threshold. Promising to call upon her I turn- 
 ed from the spot, and the next moment, after repeating 
 for the third time the exclamation, “ Ah ! sehor, cuanto 
 me alegro de vet a V. afuera de esa maldita carcel !”* 
 she was lost to sight in the throng of passers which 
 crowded the street. 
 
 The circumstance of the girl’s telling me, openly, of 
 the humble sphere and station in which she moved and 
 lived, brings to mind one excellent trait in the charac- 
 ter of the Mexican people — with them poverty is cer- 
 tainly no crime, is never insulted. The unfortunate 
 mendigo, or beggar, is seldom or never spurned from 
 the door of the rich ; but on the contrary his misfortunes 
 entitle him at least to respect if not to alms, and almost 
 invariably both are bestowed. No concealment of pov- 
 erty is attempted — the poor Mexican family, unlike that 
 of the American or English in similar circumstances, 
 never impoverishes itself still farther by forced endeav- 
 ours to conceal its real necessities. Of such hospitality 
 as the Mexican dwelling affords the stranger is always 
 invited to partake ; and while the master frankly admits 
 his poverty, he at the same time uses it as an excuse 
 for the scantiness of the repast to which he invites his 
 guest. The stranger is not told that his presence is 
 unexpected ; that the butcher has neglected to furnish 
 meat, with a threat to patronise him no more ; that the 
 bread has just given out and that there is no time to 
 bake or send for a supply, or any of the thousand and 
 one excuses a false and foolish pride invents in other 
 lands to conceal its indigence — nothing of the kind is 
 resorted to. “ Somos pobres ” — we are poor people — is 
 
 * Ah ! sir, how much it pleases me to see you out of that bad prison ! 
 
340 
 
 MEXICAN CHARITY. 
 
 the honest admission made by the Mexican to cover any 
 deficiency in his entertainment.* 
 
 As an offset to their many vices, the Mexicans cer- 
 tainly possess charity and hospitality in an eminent de- 
 gree — virtues which cover a multitude of sins, and 
 which are not only professed but practised in that coun- 
 try. The early Spanish missionaries, in their endeav- 
 ours to convert the Indians to their faith, appealed to 
 the heart and sense through the medium of the eye — 
 spread before the natives the pomp and pageantry of 
 their imposing religion with hands far from niggardly — ■ 
 and thus first estranged them from their idols and many 
 of their more absurd ceremonies. Then, as I have be- 
 fore stated, by allowing them to ingraft some of their 
 own superstitions upon the rites of the Catholic religion, 
 they were enabled to bring them over to Christianity. 
 Such the primary efforts, and such the results. 
 
 The early fathers next zealously inculcated that heav- 
 enly spirit of charity which teaches that we must clothe 
 the naked, feed the hungry, and relieve the sick and dis- 
 tressed ; and with such untiring ardour did they impress 
 this article of their creed upon the natives, that it took 
 root, and has increased and continued to the present 
 day. For evidence, we have but to look at the hospi- 
 tals for the sick in body and mind scattered through 
 the country, to the institutions for relieving the dis- 
 tresses of the unfortunate, and to the different orders of 
 sisters of charity, those meek handmaidens of benevo- 
 
 * Let it be understood that I am now speaking of the middle and lower 
 orders. A concealment of poverty is no singular thing among such of the 
 higher class as may have been reduced, and I have little doubt that many a 
 family party may be seen rolling along the Alameda in the evening, in their 
 carved and gilt coach, which is driven to great strait to procure a breakfast 
 the next morning at all in keeping with the ostentation they outwardly as- 
 
 sume. 
 
MEXICAN PRIESTHOOD. 
 
 341 
 
 lence, whose eves are ever seeking the couch of sick- 
 ness and whose hands are ever raised to succour with a 
 beneficence that knows no tiring. It is not in Mexico 
 alone that this holy feeling of charity towards the sick 
 and helpless exists ; but wherever the religion of Rome 
 is known there do we find the same active benevolence 
 exerted, the same attention to the wants of the suffering, 
 and well would it be were other denominations of Chris- 
 tians to pattern after the Catholics in all that pertains to 
 pity and compassion towards their sick and needy fel- 
 low-creatures — in plain terms, if they would make fewer 
 professions and enter more into the real practice of 
 charity. 
 
 I cannot close this subject or this chapter without a 
 few words in relation to the present priesthood in Mex- 
 ico — the faults of the holy brotherhood I shall allude to 
 with reluctance, for from one and all I never received 
 other than the kindest and most benevolent treatment. 
 With whatever intolerant zeal they may preach to their 
 congregations against the heretics, and with whatever 
 vividness they may paint the purgatory to which all 
 out of the fold of the true Church are destined after 
 death, the Protestant stranger will seldom find other 
 than a hospitality the most munificent within the gates 
 of the padres. He will find them, too, men of liberal 
 and enlightened views, well-educated and entertaining 
 companions, tolerant and charitable, extremely good 
 livers, and disposed to an indulgence in many of the 
 luxuries and vanities of this lower world — in short, he 
 will find that their numerous departures from the rule 
 of conduct prescribed for them sit as easy upon their 
 consciences as do their gowns upon their backs. 
 
 With the style of living and domestic relations of the 
 Catholic priest we are taught to associate all that is ab- 
 
 F f 2 
 
342 THEIR DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 stemious, so far as relates to worldly affairs, and that such 
 is the case in Ireland and in the United States, I know 
 full well ; but he who believes that such a state of things 
 exists among the brotherhood of Mexico is either wo- 
 fully ignorant or wilfully blind. At his table, as I have 
 stated above, the Mexican padre is a bon vivant, de- 
 lighting in the good things of this life ; and however 
 strongly he may inculcate upon his flock the necessity 
 of strictly observing all fasts, his appetite frequently be- 
 gets an obliviousness which turns every day alike into 
 one of feasting while at his own table. Another thing : 
 if all the male portion of the community in Mexico 
 were attached to the priesthood, centuries would elapse 
 before the race would become extinct unless some tre- 
 mendous revolution in the morals of the brotherhood 
 should take place ; for it is just as well known that 
 they contrive to break the bonds of celibacy strictly 
 enjoined upon them, as it is that such bonds are pre- 
 scribed by the Church of Rome. Were the pope to be 
 put in a clairvoyant state, and willed to look into the 
 domestic habits and relations of his agents in Mexico, 
 a precious set of backsliding padres he would find. 
 
 That the good padres of that country have their com- 
 paheras, or female companions, is well known, not 
 only to foreigners, but to their own people, and equally 
 well known is it that they invariably make their selec- 
 tions with a discrimination which shows that they are 
 most excellent judges of female beauty. They rear 
 families, too, and with great care and attention ; and 
 although the unaccepted and more ill-favoured portion 
 of the women constituting his flock may think their 
 padre very naughty, he findg means to close their 
 eyes and mouths upon his peccadilloes, and all goes on 
 smoothly. 
 
THEIR POLICY. 
 
 343 
 
 I trust that the kind-hearted curas, from whom my- 
 self and companions received so many favours and at- 
 tentions, will give me full pardon for thus exposing 
 some of their weaknesses and frailties — absolution for 
 my tell-tale sins : they will not attempt to deny any- 
 thing I have said of them. They will also excuse me, 
 when I say to and of them, that they are a class of en- 
 lightened, generous, good-natured, discerning, hospita- 
 ble, hail-fellow-well-met, penance-hating, women-loving 
 men, prone toward the enjoyments of the table, holding 
 fasts in great scorn, addicted to occasional gambling 
 and wine-bibbing, and pretending no ignorance in mat- 
 ters of cock-fighting and sports of a like nature ; more 
 particularly when I repeat that I entertain the best 
 feelings towards one and all of them. In describing 
 them, I have not “ set down aught in malice,” but, on 
 the contrary, have spoken of them precisely as I found 
 them. 
 
 The influence and power exerted by the priests of 
 Mexico, over the ignorant and superstitious population, 
 are immense — a fact as well known to them, and even 
 better, than to the intelligent foreigners who have visit- 
 ed the country. They know, too, that the population 
 they govern is led and kept in subjection by impostures 
 the most flimsy, by deception the most transparent — for 
 not to know this would be proving them fools, a title 
 they do not deserve. They farther know, that in order 
 to sustain themselves in their past and present position, 
 to retain their supremacy and their fat benefices, they 
 must persevere in their impostures and continue to gull 
 their simple flocks — to hold the down-trodden mass in 
 the same ignorance in which they have so long been 
 kept — and hence their open intolerance towards all 
 other sects, and their zealous care that no other religion 
 
344 
 
 CATHOLICISM IN MEXICO. 
 
 than their own shall be preached or inculcated in the 
 land.* The almost countless number of ecclesiastics in 
 Mexico are well aware that their expensive system of 
 church domination inevitably tends to diminish the re- 
 sources and retard the prosperity and advancement of 
 the country ; but it is not in the nature of men holding 
 power, whether Protestant or Catholic, political or reli- 
 gious, to resign it willingly, or give up any office of in- 
 fluence or emolument already within their grasp, be- 
 cause it conflicts with the interests or liberties of the 
 people ; and to expect the priests of Mexico to abandon 
 their sway or abdicate their ascendancy would be to 
 suppose them more than men. All reformation of ex- 
 isting evils, either of Church or State, must come from 
 the people themselves : whether the Mexican nation 
 will ever be brought to know, feel, and exert itself 
 against the powerful ecclesiastical and military estab- 
 lishments which are pressing and keeping it down, is a 
 matter extremely problematical. 
 
 The Catholic reader must not construe these remarks 
 into an attack upon his religion, for such is far from my 
 
 * No other jeligion than the Catholic is allowed or preached up to this 
 day in Mexico, but a greater degree of tolerance is manifested towards the 
 professors ol other creeds now than formerly. I have read in some book— 
 but its author I cannot call to mind — of a debate in the Mexican Senate in 
 relation to the allowing Protestant foreigners a burial-place. No such privi- 
 lege was permitted 'them until within the last ten or fifteen years, and it was 
 only through the urgent remonstrances of the then British minister that the 
 point was conceded. One of the Mexican Senators, when the subject was 
 debated in Congress, made remarks something like the following : “ There 
 is one of four things we must allow these heretics who may happen to die in 
 our land: we must eat, pickle and send them out of the country, throw them 
 in the fields, or bury them under ground. To eat them would be most re- 
 pugnant — not one of my colleagues would taste the flesh of a heretic ; to 
 send them out of the country would be expensive ; to throw them in the 
 fields would be pestilence-breeding, and otherwise exceedingly offensive. I 
 move, therefore, as the easiest, cheapest, safest, and every way the best course 
 for us to adopt, is to allow them a burial-place”— and the motion was carried- 
 
CATHOLICISM IN MEXICO. 
 
 345 
 
 intention— towards both faith and its professors I enter- 
 tain no other feelings than of respect. My object has 
 been to draw a rough picture of Catholicism in Mexico, 
 and the power and means by which it is sustained, and 
 in so doing I have confined myself strictly to the truth. 
 In its essentials the Romish religion in Mexico is doubt- 
 less the same as it is in the United States, or in any 
 country where toleration, that firm and enduring found- 
 ation of all political liberty, is known ; but in its ad- 
 ministration there is as much difference between the 
 two as there is between the religion of the Pilgrims of 
 New-England and that of the Hindoos or New Zeal- 
 anders. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Mode of passing our Time. — Herr Cline. — Mexico by Moonlight. — Note from 
 Madame Calderon. — Rambles over Mexico. — A Dance. — The Jarabe. — 
 Change of Scene. — A murdered Soldier. — Touching Instance of Grief. — 
 More Moonlight. — “Quien Vive?” — A staggering Padre. — Release of 
 Americans through the Exertions of General Thompson. — Visit to Tacu- 
 baya. — Cruel and mysterious Murder of Egerton and his Mistress. — Visit 
 to the Acordada. — A Show-case of Murder. — Gloomy Entrance to the Acor- 
 dada. — Some Description of the Interior. — Release of a Female Prisoner. 
 — Mr. Navarro. — Story of his Wrongs. — Robbery and Crime in the Acor- 
 dada. — Texan Prisoners within its dreary Walls. — Take Leave of Mr. 
 Navarro. — Farther Description of the Prison. — Encounter with Dutch 
 Broom Girls. — An old Acquaintance in the Broom Line. — The Ballad- 
 mongers badly patronised.— Evangelistas, or Letter-writers of Mexico. — 
 Their singular Calling. — Stock in Trade of the Evangelista. — Mexican 
 Coaches and Mexican Coachmen. — Another Visit to Santiago. — More of 
 the Mexican Coachmen. 
 
 Our days, from the 21st to the 27th of April, were 
 passed in roaming over the city and environs, in rides 
 through the Alameda and Paseo, and in occasional visits 
 
346 
 
 MEXICO BY MOONLIGHT. 
 
 to our companions still in confinement at San Lazaro 
 and Santiago, while the evenings we whiled away at 
 the Italian Opera, at the monte rooms in the vicinity of 
 the Plaza, where heaps of doubloons dazzle and allure 
 gambling adventurers, at fandangoes, in midnight walks 
 over the city, or mayhap in seeing the feats of a com- 
 pany of pantomimists under the direction of the celebra- 
 ted Herr Cline, who had engaged the Italian Opera 
 House on alternate nights. 
 
 No city in North America, or perhaps in the wide 
 world, can vie with Mexico as seen under the softening 
 influence of moonlight — can equal the sweet and silent 
 grandeur with which her palaces, churches, and innu- 
 merable establishments, rich in architectural beauty and 
 exterior painting, are clothed by the subdued beams of 
 the queen of night — and on one occasion I spent hours in 
 wandering at random through her streets, completely 
 absorbed by the beauty of the scene.* Attracted by 
 
 * Madame Calderon draws a graphic picture of Mexico by moonlight. She 
 says that it is the most flattering medium through which the city can be 
 viewed, with its broad and silent streets, and splendid old buildings, whose 
 decay and abandonment are softened by the silvery light ; its ancient church- 
 es, from which the notes of the organ occasionally come pealing forth, min- 
 gled with faint blasts of music borne on the night wind from some distant 
 procession ; or with the soft music of a hymn from some neighbouring con- 
 vent. The white-robed monk — -the veiled female — even the ragged beggar, 
 add to the picture : by daylight his rags are too visible. Frequently, as the 
 carriages roll along to the opera, or as, at a late hour, they return from it, 
 they are suddenly stopped by the appearance of the mysterious coach, with 
 its piebald mules, and the Eye surrounded by rays of light on its panels ; 
 a melancholy apparition, for it has come from the house of mourning, proba- 
 bly from the bed of death. Then, by the moonlight, the kneeling figures on 
 the pavement seem as if carvpd in stone. The city of Mexico by moonlight 
 —the environs of Mexico at daybreak — these are the hours for viewing both 
 to advantage, and for making us feel how 
 
 “ All but the spirit of man is divine.” 
 
 Such is the picture drawn of thissplendidcity,as seen under the influence 
 of moonlight, by the author of “ Life in Mexico” — a picture the strict fidelity 
 of which I can attest. 
 
A DANCE-HOUSE. 
 
 347 
 
 the sounds of a mandolin, coming from an open door in 
 a street near the market-place, I first took the precau- 
 tion to gather such small amount of silver as I was pos- 
 sessed of at the time into my hands, placed my hands in 
 my pockets, and entered the apartment. The dimly- 
 lighted room was rendered even more obscure by a 
 cloud of cigar smoke ; yet I could plainly discern the 
 faces of some dozen swarthy and blanketed leperos and 
 the same number of scantily-clad girls, watching the 
 movements of a party of dancers who were executing 
 one of the rude jarabes of the country — a species of 
 dance consisting chiefly of shuffling with the feet and 
 singing, and at the termination of which the males are 
 expected to treat their partners to refreshments in the 
 way of dulces.* One of the girls politely made room 
 for me upon a rude bench, but my stay was short — the 
 fumes of cigar smoke, and the odour of pulque and mes- 
 cal, drove me from the apartment at the conclusion of 
 the first dance. 
 
 While passing a house but a few steps from this haunt 
 of revelry, and certainly within hearing, I saw through the 
 open door the face of a corpse, lying in a coarse box or 
 coffin upon a table, and with some half dozen long can- 
 dles burning on either side. Two or three females, their 
 faces covered with their hands as if in deep grief, were 
 seated upon the floor near the head of the table, while a 
 single soldier was unconcernedly smoking on a rough 
 chest in one corner of the apartment. Wishing to as- 
 certain the circumstances attending the death of the 
 man in the coffin, and to see any ceremony that might 
 take place, I noiselessly entered the room. The soldier 
 informed me that the unfortunate man upon the table 
 
 * Jarabe means, [ believe, some species of sweetmeat, so that it can be 
 called the “Dance of the Sweetmeats.’’ 
 
348 
 
 AN ASSASSINATION. 
 
 was a comrade of his, who had been stabbed by a girl 
 some two hours before in a fit of jealousy. The knife 
 had reached the soldier’s heart, killing him instantly, 
 and one of the women on the floor was sobbing audibly 
 her gi'ief that he had died without the presence of a 
 priest and unconfessed. Whether she was his mother 
 or sister I did not learn — she lifted not her face while I 
 was in the room. 
 
 The lateness of the hour, the sorrowful spectacle be- 
 fore me, with the attendant train of thoughts upon the 
 insecurity of life in Mexico the scene called up, now ad- 
 monished me to hasten towards my quarters at the 
 Gran Sociedad. The moon was riding high in heaven 
 as I once more found myself in the streets, and shed- 
 ding her mild and subdued light upon the innumerable 
 religious establishments — now kissing, with sweet ra- 
 diance, a towering dome or steeple ; and anon, as some 
 wandering cloud would brush hastily across her face, 
 flitting and spectral shadows, as of misshapen giants, 
 would stalk silently across the plazas and thoroughfares, 
 and dissolve or lose themselves as the vapory intruder 
 which had created them resigned its momentary sway. 
 The air was soft, pure, and balmy — such an air as 
 would, in many countries, tempt thousands from their 
 couches ; yet the streets of Mexico were deserted — 
 that stillness which can be heard, that indefinable hum 
 which seems to be the breath of nature while asleep, 
 reigned on every side — and I even essayed to advance 
 on tiptoe, as if fearful of awaking the deep loneliness of 
 night. 
 
 The startling “ quien vive ?” of a sentinel, after I had 
 walked two or three squares without meeting a single 
 living being, was a relief as I neared the Plaza Mayor. 
 When within this noted square, the clattering of half a 
 
AN OVERBURDENED PRIEST. 
 
 349 
 
 dozen horsemen, dashing over the rough pavement in 
 hot haste as though to arrest some midnight assassin or 
 quell some drunken brawl, was really a welcome sound 
 — the previous quiet had been so intense that it was 
 painful. 
 
 I crossed the Plaza and entered the Plateros. Ten 
 steps farther, I encountered two servants assisting home- 
 ward a staggering priest. Charity induced me to hope 
 that the padre was lame or infirm, but the strong light 
 of the moon constrained me to believe that he had been 
 dining or supping with some holy brother, and that his 
 potations had been other than of chocolate or water. 
 A walk of some few minutes brought me once more to 
 my quarters, and still another five minutes added me to 
 the list of sleepers within the Gran Sociedad ; but the 
 memory of that moonlight walk awoke with me in the 
 morning, and the remembrance of the scenes which I 
 beheld that night is vivid as was their reality. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of April we were re- 
 joiced to learn that three of our comrades in imprison- 
 ment — S. B. Sheldon, Allensworth Adams, and W. 
 Tompkins — had been released through the interference 
 of General Thompson. The liberated men were soon 
 comfortably quartered in the city, and their wants pro- 
 vided for. 
 
 During the afternoon of the same day a party of 
 some six or eight of us, composed of Englishmen and 
 Americans, visited the garden of an Italian at Tacu- 
 baya, who kept a ninepin alley and provided refresh- 
 ments for such foreign guests from the city as might 
 visit the little village. Before we returned to the city, 
 an English artist of great celebrity in Mexico, a land- 
 scape painter named Egerton, was pointed out to us by 
 
 VoL. II.— G G 
 
350 
 
 MURDER OF MR. EGERTON. 
 
 one of his countrymen, who also related several anec- 
 dotes referring to the many attainments of the artist. 
 
 While breakfasting the next morning, with an Eng- 
 lish gentleman in the city, we were shocked with the 
 intelligence that Egerton, together with a female with 
 whom he lived as his wife, and who possessed rare per- 
 sonal attractions and endowments as a landscape paint- 
 er, had been cruelly murdered during the night. The 
 whole city was at once thrown into the highest excite- 
 ment by the startling news, and to increase still farther 
 the commotion, many Mexican families, who had made 
 Tacubaya their country residence, packed their furni- 
 ture with all haste, and with their families returned im- 
 mediately into the city, as if fearful of being massacred. 
 
 It seems that on the evening of the murder, Egerton 
 and the unfortunate woman were walking in a large 
 garden attached to their residence, as was their custom, 
 and that while thus engaged they were attacked by 
 some person or persons unknown, and both slain. The 
 body of Egerton was found some distance from that of 
 his companion, run through apparently with a sword, 
 while by his side was a walking-stick much hacked, 
 rendering it evident that he had fought to the last and 
 made a stout resistance. The body of the female, who 
 was on the point of becoming a mother, was also stab- 
 bed and otherwise horribly mangled, and this induced 
 the belief that she too had resisted to the last. Her face 
 was scratched and otherwise disfigured, a piece was 
 bitten from her breast, her person had been abused, and 
 the perpetrator of the outrage, as if fearing that she 
 might not be recognised, had written her name upon a 
 piece of paper and pinned it to a fragment of the dress 
 that still remained upon her body, most of it having been 
 torn off in the struggle which ended in her death. The 
 
A FEARFUL MYSTERY. 
 
 351 
 
 formation of the letters was plainly English, a circum- 
 stance which went directly to prove that the murder 
 was neither planned nor matured by Mexicans ; and to 
 corroborate this belief, the money and watch of Eger- 
 ton, and the jewelry of his companion, were untouched 
 — rendering it certain that the act was not one of the 
 native robbers, but of deep revenge. Among the thou- 
 sand reports and rumours circulating in Mexico the next 
 morning, was one to the effect that the murdered man 
 had a wife and two children in England, and that some 
 two years previous he had visited his native land with 
 the intention of bringing them to Mexico ; but instead 
 of returning with his wife, he had seduced and enticed 
 away the murdered woman, who had since lived with 
 him as his wife. Rumour also had it that the latter was 
 engaged to be married to a young man in England at 
 the time of her elopement with Egerton. Among the 
 many speculations afloat among the countrymen of the 
 unfortunate couple, the one which received the most 
 credence was, that the murder had been planned in 
 England, and effected by some acquaintance of the 
 woman, as a matter of revenge. There was also a 
 story that Egerton had been involved in a love affair 
 with some fair Mexican ; but this report received little 
 credence. The British Minister, Mr. Pakenham, exert- 
 ed himself to the utmost to ferret out and arrest the 
 perpetrators, in which he was assisted by General Va- 
 lencia and the Mexican police and authorities ; but up to 
 this time no clew to the authors of the horrible outrage 
 has been discovered, and the whole affair remains a 
 profound mystery. 
 
 Determined, if possible, to gain admission into the 
 noted Acordada, and have one interview with my old 
 companion, Antonio Navarro, before leaving Mexico, 
 
352 
 
 VISIT TO THE ACORDADA. 
 
 on the morning after the murder I have just hastily de- 
 scribed I obtained the assistance of a young and influ- 
 ential Englishman, who spoke confidently of his being 
 able either to coax or bribe his way into the interior of 
 the prison. Arrived in front, my companion pointed, 
 through a barred window, to a species of form built 
 upon an inclined plane, on which the bodies of such per- 
 sons as have been murdered during the night are ex- 
 posed in the morning, so that they may be recognised 
 by their friends ! With a shudder at the thoughts of 
 scenes of misery and deep wo which must almost daily 
 be enacted in front of this revolting show-case of mur- 
 der, by the wives, sisters, mothers, and other relatives 
 of the victims, we passed onward. 
 
 After a few words of parley with a guard of soldiers 
 stationed at the main entrance, we were admitted with- 
 in the gloomy walls and commenced the ascent of a 
 flight of solid but much-worn steps. Either side we 
 found lined with ragged and squalid wretches, doubtless 
 in some way related to the prisoners, and lounging 
 about with the hope of being allowed to visit them. 
 Arrived at the head of this dismal staircase, and after a 
 few words of farther parley, we were admitted through 
 a strong and massive door. Here we at once found 
 ourselves involved in a labyrinth of gloomy galleries 
 and dark passage-ways. Soldiers, keepers, officers of 
 the courts, gentlemen and leperos, were hurrying to and 
 fro ; ponderous locks were turned in opening or closing 
 heavy iron doors and gates on every side ; curses and 
 deep imprecations were heard in unseen quarters ; 
 while the clanking of chains, as they were dragged 
 along the floors of the different apartments and across 
 the stone pavement of an immense patio below us, were 
 grating harshly on our ears. 
 
INTERIOR OF A PRISON. 
 
 353 
 
 My companion asked a young man, who appeared 
 to be in some way connected with the dreary prison, if 
 he could be allowed a few minutes’ conversation with 
 Senor Navarro. “ Presently,” answered the individ- 
 ual addressed, at the same time ushering us into a small 
 oifice on the outer side of the main corridor. A hard- 
 featured man, who seemed as though he might be a 
 captain of the night watch, was reading the Diario del 
 Gobierno in one corner of this apartment, while a clerk 
 was making out what appeared to be arrest- warrants or 
 subpoenas for witnesses, at a desk on the opposite side. 
 Here we remained anxiously, for some half an hour, 
 until a Mr. Navarro, but not the right one, stepped into 
 the room and asked our business. On telling him that 
 we had called to see another prisoner who bore the 
 same name, he pointed to a heavy iron door or gate, 
 leading to a species of anteroom, and said that we must 
 inquire there. A word or two with a keeper through 
 the grates sufficed to gain us admission, and no sooner 
 had we entered than the door was closed and locked 
 after us, with a clang that sent a shudder through our 
 frames. 
 
 The young Englishman who accompanied me now 
 again made known our wish to see the prisoner, Mr. 
 Navarro, adding that we had received permission to 
 that effect. The keeper, after telling us to wait a few 
 moments, unlocked another grated door, which seemed 
 to open into an inner corridor, and went in quest of my 
 former comrade. During the few minutes that elapsed 
 before his return, We had an opportunity of learning 
 some of the secrets of this celebrated prison, and of see- 
 ing the cold, business-like air with which it is conduct- 
 ed. On every side it seemed as though we could hear 
 keys turning in ponderous locks, the dreary sound of 
 G g 2 
 
354 
 
 A LIBERATED CONVICT. 
 
 bolts, and the clanging of the heavy iron doors as they 
 opened or were shut. On one side of the interior they 
 appeared to be admitting prisoner after prisoner, crying 
 aloud their names as the unfortunates crossed the gloomy 
 thresholds : at an opposite side, the passage leading di- 
 rectly through the room in which we were standing, 
 seemed to be the outlet through which the prisoners 
 made their way on being liberated, for while we re- 
 mained three or four were escorted through in the di- 
 rection of the main entrance to the building from with- 
 out. A sickly, deadly, prison-like smell, arising from 
 damp and dirty walls and floors, ragged and filthy 
 wretches covered with vermin, and a close and con- 
 fined atmosphere, pervaded the apartment, and as if to 
 make the air doubly offensive, the opening of a heavy 
 door would bring in some freshly-foul current from the 
 dismal interior. 
 
 Three times was the name of each liberated prisoner 
 shouted aloud, and three times, it seemed to us, was 
 the cry accompanied by sounds as of keys turning in 
 the prison locks and of doors slowly opening. “ Guada- 
 lupe Ribas” was heard, in low and muttered tones, from 
 the inner recesses, followed by sounds almost indistinct, 
 but which resembled those of a heavy door within doors 
 as it swung upon its hinges. “ Guadalupe Ribas” was 
 again heard, in tones far more distinct, succeeded by 
 sounds which it was now plainly evident proceeded 
 from a key turning in some heavy lock and the open- 
 ing of still another iron door. “ Guadalupe Ribas” once 
 more resounded in our ears, louder and more distinct, 
 a strong door grated heavily upon its hinges, and Gua- 
 dalupe Ribas was passed through the room in which 
 we were awaiting. Who or what she was, or for what 
 crime she had been confined, we did not learn ; but for 
 
INTERVIEW WITH MR. NAVARRO. 
 
 355 
 
 attempting the life of her lover in a fit of jealousy, or 
 for some act of a like nature, she had probably been 
 provided with lodgings within the gloomy walls of the 
 Acordada. She was a pretty girl, of not more than 
 eighteen, was neatly and cleanly dressed in garments 
 brought probably by the friends who had procured her 
 release, and with downcast eyes and hurried steps trip- 
 ped from the place as the last door was opened.* 
 
 No sooner had she departed, than a ponderous iron 
 gate, leading apparently into another part of the prison, 
 was slowly opened, and Mr. Navarro stood before us. 
 Three months’ close imprisonment, combined with the 
 horrible associations of the Acordada, had wrought 
 terrible changes in the appearance of my old compan- 
 ion — his unshaved face was pale and haggard, his hair 
 long and uncombed, his vestments ragged and much 
 soiled. On first entering the walls, his fellow-prison- 
 ers, composed of the most loathsome and abandoned 
 wretches, had robbed him not only of his money but 
 his clothing, and with emotion he now told us that the 
 only sustenance he received was the scanty allowance 
 of tortillas and frijoles given to each of the immense 
 horde of felons and assassins by whom he was sur- 
 rounded — a pittance barely sufficient to sustain life. 
 He spoke of his wife and children at San Antonio, of a 
 son at college in Missouri, and with tearful eyes beg- 
 ged me to convey to them information that he was still 
 alive and not without hope of ultimate release. Stealth- 
 ily, and without being seen by the surrounding Mexi- 
 cans, we gave the unfortunate man what money we 
 had — shaking hands with him three or four times pre- 
 vious to our final parting, and at each grasp slipping a 
 
 * I may have mistaken the name of this girl, although I heard it pronoun- 
 ced three times. 
 
356 
 
 JAIL-BIRDS. 
 
 few dollars into his possession : then, after expressing 
 our ardent wishes for his speedy liberation, we left the 
 Acordada, but not until I heard the ponderous iron door 
 close, with a dreadful clang, upon my old comrade. 
 
 As we were leaving the building, I looked down into 
 an immense patio, paved with stone, where some hun- 
 dreds of male prisoners were sitting, lounging, working, 
 and sleeping — the apartment for the females I did not 
 see. Near the main entrance we found several of the 
 men belonging to tha Santa Fe Expedition — English- 
 men, Americans, Frenchmen, and Prussians — who had 
 been liberated through the intervention of the ministers 
 of their different governments. They were now await- 
 ing an opportunity to see several Texan prisoners, who 
 had been captured on the Rio Grande in the vicinity 
 of Matamoros. I, too, was anxious to give these pris- 
 oners a call, although unacquainted with them ; but as 
 my companion had an engagement to fulfil in the city, 
 was compelled to hurry off’ without accomplishing it. 
 Another opportunity to visit the Acordada did not offer 
 while I was in Mexico. 
 
 A full description of this dreary prison might not 
 prove uninteresting, but I am unable to give it. Hun- 
 dreds of wretches, male and female, and of every grade, 
 are confined within its walls — chained, ill-fed, dirty and 
 ragged. In 1828 occurred the Revolution of the Acor- 
 dada, and during some of the more recent pronuncia- 
 mentos the prisoners, or many of them, have escaped ; 
 but in the spring of 1842 the place appeared to be 
 stocked, even to overflowing, with murderers, thieves, 
 counterfeiters, wives who had stabbed or poisoned their 
 husbands, girls who had assassinated or attempted to 
 assassinate their lovers — in short, a miscellaneous col- 
 lection of every hardened class in Mexico, from the 
 
DUTCH BROOM-GIRLS IN MEXICO. 
 
 357 
 
 highest to the lowest. Some one of the guards, attend- 
 ants, or keepers should have been provided with a 
 chain and a lodging within the prison while I was there, 
 for among them they robbed me of a handkerchief. 
 This was a mere trifle, however, for it is impossible to 
 turn a corner in Mexico without having your pockets 
 picked. Even in the churches, it is said, the leperos 
 ply their calling ; for while their spiritual wants are 
 administered to by the priests, the ragged rascals have 
 an eye upon their temporal need by introducing their 
 fingers into the pockets of their neighbours, and this 
 with a dexterity unknown in other lands. 
 
 On our return to the heart of the city, I proceeded at 
 once to the great coach stand in the Plaza Mayor for 
 the purpose of hiring one of the clumsy vehicles to ride 
 out to Santiago. In the Plateros I met a couple of 
 Dutch broom-girls, with their “ fader and big broder,” 
 squalling away at one of their street ballads, and with 
 the usual tambourine, hurdy-gurdy, and dancing mon- 
 key accompaniments. One of the girls I recognised as 
 a veteran itinerant, well known in the thoroughfares of 
 every city of the United States. She spoke a little 
 English, and on my asking her how she liked Mexico, 
 she remarked that “ dese peoples is very poor in dis 
 city, so poor as we can’t make de expenses.” Presu- 
 ming that the expenses of one of these families are far 
 from heavy, it may be naturally inferred that the pa- 
 tronage they received in Mexico was not very exten- 
 sive, and that the demand for brooms and ballads of 
 Dutch manufacture is not sufficient to induce a farther 
 exportation. 
 
 As I passed under the Portales, with the intention of 
 examining a showy sarape exposed in front of one of 
 the shops, I paused for a moment to watch the move- 
 
358 
 
 EVANGELISTAS. 
 
 merits of one of the letter-writers of Mexico — evange- 
 listas they are called — who was intently scrutinizing 
 the countenance of a customer, seated upon a small box 
 in front of him, as if to read his thoughts. If the custom- 
 er was not an assassin, or a noted robber at least, his 
 face certainly belied him ; for a more hang-dog expres- 
 sion of countenance was never worn. As he whisper- 
 ed a few words in the attentive ear of the evangelista, 
 I could not but think that the fellow was consenting to 
 an offer made him to assassinate or rob some unfortu- 
 nate person, and wished the letter-writer to make the 
 fact known upon a note he was in the act of sketching. 
 
 These evangelistas, it is said, ply a profitable trade 
 by writing letters for those of the inhabitants whose ed- 
 ucation, in the matter of expressing their thoughts by 
 intelligible signs on paper, has been neglected — and of 
 the entire population of the city of Mexico, I do not be- 
 lieve that five in every hundred adults can read and 
 write. Where it is impossible, then, to communicate 
 by verbal message, the professional letter-writers are 
 called in requisition, and thus they are made the re- 
 positories of secrets innumerable, and secrets which it 
 is well understood they will never betray. There, in 
 the neighbourhood of the Plaza, do these evangelistas sit 
 from day to day, their stock in trade consisting of pens, 
 ink, and a few quires of assorted paper, with a small 
 tablet upon which to write. As their principal cus- 
 tomers are girls, it is more than probable that love and 
 intrigue are the themes upon which their talents are 
 oftenest called in requisition ; but that they are ready, 
 for “ a consideration,” to indite epistles in relation to 
 treason, assassination, or robbery, there can be little 
 doubt. 
 
 As I approached the coach stand, I suppose there 
 
CHARACTERISTICS OF COACHMEN. 359 
 
 must have been something in my countenance which 
 indicated that I could furnish a job, for twenty Mexican 
 Jehus at once crowded around me, and each pointed 
 out his establishment as in every w’ay preferable to 
 those of his fellows. Coachmen are the same the world 
 over, and if you do not ascertain that their animals are 
 faster, their vehicles newer, easier to ride in, and less 
 liable to break down than any others, it will not be be- 
 cause these circumstances are not told you with open- 
 mouthed vehemence. In the present instance I threw 
 myself entirely upon the generosity of the assembled 
 crowd of “ whips,” and after undergoing the usual 
 amounVof pulling and hauling, at last found myself in 
 one of the coaches. In another moment the postillion 
 mounted the “near wheel mule” — I believe that is the 
 technical term — and I was whirled and jolted off on a 
 short visit to my imprisoned friends. In an hour I was 
 once more in the city, my hat suffering severely from the 
 jolts of the coach as it crossed one or two of the gut- 
 ters, while a new bump was developed on the crown 
 of my head by sudden and forcible contact with the top 
 of the vehicle. 
 
 A few words in relation to the appearance and con- 
 struction of the Mexican coach, and I have done with 
 this chapter. The superstructure, or body of the vehi- 
 cle, is well enough, being somewhat after the fashion of 
 our own light hackney-coaches ; but the huge frame or 
 scaffolding upon which it is swung is altogether a dif- 
 ferent thing, and gives the whole affair a clumsy, ill- 
 proportioned appearance. The wheels are large, strong, 
 placed at a distance of three or four yards apart, and 
 were the immense platform upon which the top rests 
 taken away, the American would at once suppose it to 
 be a lumber carriage, such as timber and heavy stone 
 
360 
 
 THEIR VEHICLES. 
 
 pillars are transported on in his native land. The sides 
 of the body are painted, the scaffolding upon which it 
 rests elaborately carved with queer conceits, and not to 
 speak far out of the bounds of reason, there is timber 
 enough wasted in the construction of the whole to build 
 a small class Western steamer of the lighter model. 
 Such is a hasty description of the coach : the animals 
 and driver require a few words. The latter is gen- 
 erally a swarthy, brigandish, dashing fellow, dressed in 
 a leathern jacket not lacking in embroidery and bell 
 buttons, stout trousers of the same, with a broad-brim- 
 med hat covered with oiled silk, and frequently decora- 
 ted with silver cord and tassels. This is perched in a 
 jaunty, devil-may-care style upon his head, and thus 
 arrayed, the stranger, who has read some life of brig- 
 ands illustrated with plates, cannot but think the Mex- 
 ican cochero an individual even more ready to attack 
 and rob his coach than to drive it. His mules are often 
 large and strong animals, and although encumbered 
 with heavy and useless ornaments attached to the har- 
 ness, and frequently with a leathern case which com- 
 pletely covers their hind quarters and tails, he contrives 
 to get over the ground with a celerity which could hard- 
 ly be expected. What the charge per hour is I have 
 now forgotten — I only know that, like coachmen in oth- 
 er countries, the Mexicans get all they can, and almost 
 invariably ask for more. 
 
THE ALAMEDA. 
 
 361 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 The Alameda. — Visit to that noted Pleasure-ground. — A Yankee Livery- 
 stable-keeper in Mexico. — A Shower. — Paseo Nuevo. — Family Parties in 
 their Carriages.— Mexican Cavaliers on Horseback. — Singular Gait of their 
 Steeds. — Manner of training them. — Race with a Shower.— Santa Anna. 
 — His Courtesy, Policy, Power, and ambitious Projects. — Reasons for the 
 . Decline of the Mexican Republic. — Our last Night in Mexico. — More of 
 Captain Hudson. — Santa Anna’s Benevolence ! — Take leave of our 
 Friends. — San Lazaro again.— Mexican Escort.— Mexico from the Mount- 
 ain Sides. — Arrival at a Breakfast-House. — Arms and Equipments of our 
 Party. — A Yankee Driver. — Roadside Crosses and Graves. — Stories of 
 Robbers. — Robbing the Stages reduced to a System. — Seiior Garcia 
 and theLadrones. — Rio Frio.^r-Mexican Dogs. — Cholula in the Distance. 
 — Arrival at Puebla. — Visit to the Texan Prisoners at the Presidio. — Their 
 unfortunate Condition. — The Cathedral of Puebla. — Its great Riches. — 
 Anecdote of the Angels.— Superstition from which Puebla received its 
 Name. — In Bed and Asleep. 
 
 In my last chapter I related the particulars of a visit 
 to the Acordada. Although that prison is situated near 
 the Alameda, a celebrated park or resort for all the 
 fashionables of Mexico, up to this time I had not enter- 
 ed its gates or examined its beautiful fountains. The 
 day was now approaching when Mr. Ellis was to 
 leave the capital for Vera Cruz, with such American 
 prisoners as had been liberated ; and, determined to en- 
 joy the pleasure of a ride through the Alameda before 
 our departure, a small party of us procured horses after 
 dinner, and sallied out with the intention of galloping 
 over the pleasure-grounds of the elite of Mexico. 
 
 April seems to be' a month of “ smiles and tears” in 
 Mexico as with us ; for although the sky was bright 
 and clear when we mounted the nags procured for us 
 at the stable of a Yankee, who has found his way to 
 Vol, II,— H H 
 
362 
 
 A SUDDEN SHOWER. 
 
 that city, and established himself in the business of 
 “ hiring out” horses, before we had been ten minutes in 
 the saddle the heavens were overcast, and in five more 
 the clouds were discounting with a liberality which 
 threatened to lay the city under water. Cargadores, 
 with their leather trousers rolled up, were standing at 
 the different crossings, ready to carry any unfortunate 
 pedestrian, who might be “ caught out,” over the swift- 
 ly-running street currents caused by the shower. So 
 suddenly was the rain pouring upon us that there was 
 no chance of an escape by retreating, and we therefore 
 dashed on towards the Alameda. A few minutes more, 
 and rain, clouds, and all were over. The rapidity with 
 which showers come and go in these high mountain re- 
 gions, for Mexico lies some seven thousand feet above 
 the level of the sea, can scarcely be imagined. 
 
 We passed an hour pleasantly in the Alameda, and 
 in the Paseo Nuevo, which is but a continuation, admi- 
 ring the beautiful fountains, groves, walks, and rides 
 with which they are adorned. Before we left the for- 
 mer, the carriage-roads which wind through it were 
 thronged with the lumbering but costly vehicles of the 
 higher orders, tilled with ladies and children. At cer- 
 tain points the carriages would draw up in line, many 
 of the fair inmates smoking their cigarritos with much 
 apparent gusto, w T hile occasionally a dashing horse- 
 man would amble up on his prancing steed, exchange a 
 few words, and then canter off to exchange compliments 
 with the ladies in some other coach. The reader must 
 not suppose, however, that the cavalier starts off at a 
 rapid gallop — he does nothing of the kind. There is 
 little “ go-ahead” in a spirited, showy, well-trained 
 Mexican horse — the old saying of the country is, that 
 “ a true and devoted lover will ride and amble all day 
 
MEXICAN HORSEMANSHIP. 
 
 363 
 
 long under the window of his mistress.” If the animal 
 “ lifts” well, or, in other words, if he hoists his fore feet 
 some ten or twelve inches at every step, and will make 
 motions enough while going twenty yards to carry 
 him half that number of miles, he is the horse for a 
 Mexican’s money. To train him to this showy but 
 most unnatural gait, it is said that, while a colt, large 
 and heavy clogs are fastened to the fetlock joints of the 
 fore feet by means of straps — these straps allowing the 
 clogs some twelve inches play. To move onward at 
 all, the animal is obliged to hoist the weights entirely 
 from the ground, and they are never taken off until the 
 colt has contracted such a habit of lifting as cannot be 
 overcome. To give him a farther shuffling gait, the 
 Mexican gentleman covers the haunches of his steed with 
 a large leather casing which reaches to his hocks. The 
 edges of this casing are trimmed with little iron points, 
 which not only tinkle at every step, but prick the 
 horse’s hind legs, so .much to his annoyance, that he 
 throws them as far forward as possible. Thus, what 
 with lifting his fore legs and mincing with his hind, a 
 gait is contracted which more resembles the dancing 
 of a circus-horse upon a plank than aught else I can 
 liken it to. A cruel bit, of Mameluke pattern, which 
 causes the horse to curve his neck, champ, and froth 
 incessantly at the mouth, completes the fit-out of the 
 Mexican gentleman on a pleasure ride. 
 
 We had intended to make the entire circuit of the 
 Paseo Nuevo ; but a small cloud in the direction of one 
 of the snow-capped mountains warned us that another 
 shower was brewing, and that to escape it we must be 
 moving homeward. Fortunately, our Yankee livery- 
 stable-keeper had brought with him his inherent utilita- 
 rian principles of getting over as much ground as pos- 
 
3G4 
 
 SANTA ANNA AND HIS LADY. 
 
 sible in the shortest time, and had taught his animals 
 rather to annihilate miles than minutes — a circumstance 
 which saved us a second soaking ; for as we clattered 
 through the streets at a rapid pace, the shower which 
 had driven us from the Alameda was following close 
 at our heels and gaining upon us at every step. The 
 full weight of it was falling as we threw ourselves from 
 our jaded animals under the archway which formed 
 the entrance to our quarters. 
 
 We had now but one more day to remain in Mexico, 
 and I felt that I had yet scarcely seen half the curiosi- 
 ties of which the proud city boasts. Santa Anna him- 
 self, the great man who has risen above reverses that 
 no common intellect could have combated so success- 
 fully, I had never set eyes upon — he moved not from 
 the palace while we were in the city at liberty, or if he 
 did we were not aware of it. All the foreigners — 
 American, English, and French — spoke of him as a 
 man extremely courteous and affable in his intercourse ; 
 of polished and most agreeable manners ; in short, the 
 last person who could be suspected of the many acts 
 of oppression, tyranny, broken faith, ambition, avarice, 
 and treachery of which he has been accused. To ob- 
 tain at least a glimpse of this man was the ardent de- 
 sire of us all ; but we were disappointed. His lady 
 was lying dangerously ill at the time, which may have 
 been one reason that prevented him from appearing in 
 public.* 
 
 * Madame Santa Anna is spoken of by all as an estimable woman, of 
 great kindness of heart, and it was reported that she was untiring in her 
 exertions to have the treatment of the Texan prisoners mitigated. On the 
 19th of April she was thought to be lying at the point of death, and a solemn - 
 service in the cathedral was held and the last sacrament administered to the 
 sufferer. It was said at the time, but with what truth I know not, that ten 
 thousand dollars’ worth of wax candles were burning within the walls of the 
 cathedral at the same moment. The magnificence of such a spectacle can 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTER OF THE MEXIOAN3. 365 
 
 No farther proof is wanting of the great talent — per- 
 haps I should call it cunning — of Santa Anna, than the 
 simple fact that he has been able, in the face of adverse 
 circumstances apparently insurmountable, and in direct 
 opposition to the known wishes of a large majority of 
 the inhabitants, to regain and retain a supremacy which 
 amounts to absolute power. With every variety of 
 discordant element arrayed against him — with popular 
 and powerful military men known to be inimical in dif- 
 ferent quarters, with a Constituent Congress opposed to 
 him, with reverse after reverse and defeat after defeat 
 staring him in the face- — above all these he has risen, 
 and at this time is really in the possession and enjoy- 
 ment of a power such as the Autocrat of all the Rus- 
 sias would hardly dare to wield. That his arbitrary 
 and despotic government is the best that could be 
 adopted, to keep the people in subjection, can hardly 
 be doubted by any one who has seen Mexico ; yet not 
 one jot of credit does Santa Anna deserve for thus ru- 
 ling the land, as his own selfishness rather than a love 
 of country actuates his every movement. There are 
 many liberal, enlightened, and well-disposed statesmen 
 among the Federalists of Mexico — men of great moral 
 honesty, and earnestly desirous of placing the govern- 
 ment of the country upon a republican basis — but they 
 have an ignorant population to deal with, a population 
 entirely incapable of governing themselves ; to this 
 may be added the influence and power of the priest- 
 hood ; and as if this was not enough, the ambitious and 
 selfish schemes of Santa Anna, and after him some half 
 dozen military leaders who only lack his talent and 
 
 hardly be conceived, much less described — such a flood of light illuminating 
 the rich adornments of the church, and the showy and imposing dresses 
 and brilliant ornaments of the priests officiating on the occasion. 
 
 H H 2 
 
36G 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 
 
 energy to make them equally opposed to the supremacy 
 of civil power — with all these drag-weights upon their 
 efforts, what hopes can .the friende of free government 
 entertain of even ultimate success? The day has gone 
 by when a priest-ridden population, governed by a 
 military despotism, can make headway in the great 
 race of advancement which has been commenced by 
 Anglo-Saxon toleration, and by the civil and religious 
 liberty which the latter race enjoy. That Santa Anna, 
 or such a man as Santa Anna, unless some tremendous 
 revolution takes place in the very natures of the inhab- 
 itants, will continue to govern Mexico until she is swal- 
 lowed in that vortex which appears to be yawning to 
 receive her, is certain — a vortex formed by the liberal 
 spirit of universal education, free toleration of religion, 
 and that stern and inflexible love for equal rights now 
 spreading through the earth, which compels ambition 
 to sacrifice personal feelings to the public good. 
 
 The evening previous to our departure from Mexico 
 was spent in cleaning and loading pistols, packing up, 
 and making ready for the tiresome and hazardous jour- 
 ney to Vera Cruz. The exact dated have forgotten, as 
 I took no note of time or circumstances after my release 
 — but that it rained incessantly during the earlier part 
 of the night I well remember. The diligence set off at 
 three o’clock in the morning, and as we all had much to 
 do no one retired to rest. About midnight, and while I 
 was at the rooms of Mr. Ellis, a Mexican officer arrived 
 in great haste, with an order for the release of Captain 
 Hudson — Santa Anna, I believe at the request of the 
 then Governor of Connecticut, having consented to give 
 him up. Captain H., however, as is already known, had 
 put it out of the power of the Provisional President to 
 exercise another act of “ benevolence ” towards the Uni- 
 
SETTING OUT FOR HOME. 
 
 367 
 
 ted States, by taking the responsibility of liberating him- 
 self.* 
 
 At half past two o’clock in the morning we took our 
 leave of General Thompson, who had been employed 
 up to that hour in writing and making out his despatch- 
 es, and set out with bag and baggage for the Casa de 
 Diligencias, from which the stage starts. After some 
 half hour passed in weighing and stowing trunks and 
 valises, each passenger being compelled to pay extra if 
 he is the possessor of more than an arroba or twenty- 
 five pounds of baggage, we finally entered the coach, 
 some eight or ten Americans in all, and once more sha- 
 king hands with Mr. Mayer and several of our country- 
 men, who had lost one night’s sleep for the purpose of 
 “ seeing us off,” the driver cracked his whip and we 
 rattled over the pavements at a rapid rate. 
 
 * In the published correspondence, in relation to the release of the Amer- 
 ican prisoners attached to the Santa Fe Expedition, it is openly asserted that 
 we were released, not as an act of justice, but purely from benevolent motives ! 
 I will quote one or two passages from a letter addressed to General Thomp- 
 son by M. de Bocanegra, and dated “ Mexico, April 23, 1842.” In this letter 
 General T. is informed, “That his excellency the Provisional President, in 
 consideration solely of the cordial friendship by which the Mexican Repub- 
 lic is united to the United States, has been pleased to accede to the repeated 
 petitions addressed by Mr. Powhatan Ellis, conjointly with the other diplo- 
 matic ministers, by means of notes and private conferences, to the effect that 
 those persons among the Texan prisoners from New Mexico should be liber- 
 ated, who, according to the said notes, are citizens of the said States, and 
 who, on incorporating themselves with the Texan force, had no intention to 
 make war on the Republic.” M. de Bocanegra next goes on to say that San- 
 ta Anna, “ though he has on this occasion done an act of benevolence, in or- 
 der to prove to the United States how much he desires to preserve the rela- 
 tions which now fortunately exist between the two nations, protests that for 
 the future, every individual of any nation whatever, who may be found in 
 the Texan ranks, and may be made prisoner by the Mexican troops, shall be 
 subject, without ransom, to the laws of war.” A very pretty piece of Mexi- 
 can kindness, this, ingeniously interwoven with Mexican vapour ! I certain- 
 ly feel under great obligations to my own government for its petitions, and to 
 Santa Anna for his exceeding benevolence, but I doubt whether I should ever 
 tax either of them again were I arrested under the same circumstances and 
 should the same opportunities to escape be within my reach. 
 
368 
 
 SUNRISE ON THE ROAD. 
 
 As we passed the old Hospital of San Lazaro, which 
 lies immediately to the left of the road leading to Vera 
 Cruz, I could not resist taking a last look at its gloomy 
 walls, now indistinctly seen by the dim light of morning. 
 Not without a shudder did I recall the revolting scenes, 
 dreary hours of imprisonment, wild orgies, and impo- 
 sing night funerals, I had passed and seen within its long 
 and dismal halls, hor could I think of my comrades still 
 confined there, and of the horrible associations of the 
 place, without a fervent hope that the Texans might 
 speedily be released. Five minutes more, and we had 
 passed the garita, and were speeding along over the 
 open thoroughfare.' An escort of dragoons, provided 
 by Santa Anna for “El Ministro” and his party, were 
 galloping on either side of the stage, their lances and 
 sabres rattling at every movement of their horses. 
 
 The dull gray of morning was slowly dispersing as 
 we commenced the toilsome ascent of the mountains 
 which divide the valley of Mexico from that of Puebla, 
 and long before the summit was reached the full light 
 of day was shining far and wide over the scene below 
 us. The and waste which surrounds the great city we 
 had just left was softened down, and served to heighten 
 the magnificence of the innumerable towers and domes 
 still plainly visible. The distant mountain sides were 
 clothed with a fleecy covering of clouds, the wasted re- 
 ceptacles of the last night’s shower ; and as the sun 
 gradually lifted the curtain of vapour the bold and pre- 
 cipitous sides were brought out in striking grandeur. 
 As we were approaching the last turn in the road the 
 sun suddenly shot up from behind the mountain tops ; 
 for an instant the valley was lit up as by enchantment, 
 and the next moment a projecting cliff shut out the 
 brilliant scene — we had looked our last upon the city 
 of the Montezumas. 
 
MILITARY EQUIPMENTS. 
 
 369 
 
 An hour’s ride over the rough mountain country now 
 brought us to the breakfast-house, a noted stand by the 
 roadside, and kept, if my memory serves me, by a 
 Frenchman. It was not until we had dragged our 
 cramped and benumbed limbs from the stage that our 
 full strength and imposing armament were brought to 
 full view, and we ascertained that our diligence was a 
 perfect arsenal of war’s dread implements of destruc- 
 tion. Judge Ellis had a sword in his hands, while a belt 
 stuck full of United States boarding-pistols was strap- 
 ped around him. In the hands of some of my compan- 
 ions were double-barrelled guns — and the butt of a pis- 
 tol or the handle of a bowie-knife was peering from 
 every pocket. While in Mexico we had breakfasted, 
 dined, and supped full of horrible tales of robbers and 
 robberies upon the road to Vera Cruz ; but as we now 
 counted our strength, we felt a confidence in our ability 
 to withstand a successful siege from four times our num- 
 ber of los senores ladrones, and would even have paid 
 extra fare could we have been ensured a small brush 
 with the lawless freebooters. “ We’re good for fifty of 
 ’em, sure,” was the remark of one of our companions, 
 as we displayed our arms upon a table in the breakfast- 
 house, and I have little doubt that such odds would 
 have fared badly. The greatest risk we ran, in all prob- 
 ability, was of accidentally shooting each other ; for 
 while crowded in the stage it was impossible to look in 
 any direction without seeing the muzzle of a loaded 
 pistol staring in our faces. 
 
 After making a breakfast which mainly consisted of 
 mutton, fowls, eggs, and frijoles, aided by chocolate and 
 some excellent claret provided by Judge Ellis, and after 
 hearing a much exaggerated tale of a party of robbers, 
 recently seen prowling in the neighbourhood of Rio 
 
370 
 
 STAGE DRIVERS. 
 
 Frio, we once more buckled on our armour and took 
 our places in the diligence. The morning was mild 
 and agreeably pleasant in this high mountain region, so 
 much so that two or three of us soon took our seats out- 
 side with the driver, a well-informed, entertaining Yan- 
 kee, who knew the history of every roadside cross 
 which lifts its head over the remains of some murdered 
 occupant of the rude grave below. With whatever 
 skill the Mexicans may be able to manage a single horse 
 in the saddle, the science of handling some half dozen 
 from the box of a stage-coach is above their comprehen- 
 sion, and a feat they have not the temerity to under- 
 take — and hence the owners of the different lines of dil- 
 igences invariably procure the services of Yankees 
 when they can be obtained. 
 
 Your stage-driver is an entertaining fellow go where 
 you will ; full of interesting stories, and ever prone to 
 relate the history of every remarkable point upon his 
 route. Ours we found unusually amusing, perhaps from 
 the abundant material at his hand of perilous encounters 
 with banditti and hair-breadth ’scapes on occasions in- 
 numerable. The driver of the Mexican diligence is a 
 neutral in any attack that may be made, as it would be 
 more than his place is worth should he side with the 
 passengers against the ladrones ; yet it frequently oc- 
 curs that the latter blaze away at random at the stage, 
 and on more than one occasion the driver has lost his 
 life although it was not sought. His duty is — and 
 nothing else is expected of him either by the highway- 
 men or the passengers — to jump from his box at the 
 first onset, hold his lead horses by the head until the af- 
 fray is over, and let it terminate as it will he is not mo- 
 lested intentionally. He knows every robber upon the 
 road, yet never exposes them, for the very simple but 
 
STAGE ROBBERIES. 
 
 371 
 
 satisfactory reason that his life would pay the forfeit if 
 he did. 
 
 The business of robbing the stages is reduced to a 
 perfect system in Mexico ; and it is shrewdly hinted 
 that many men, of respectable station in the larger 
 cities, are in some way connected with the bands, and 
 have no hesitation in taking to the road when other re- 
 sources fail. A spy is almost invariably stationed at 
 the stage-house as the coach is about starting, whose 
 duty it is to take down a list of the passengers, their 
 appearance, arms, and the amount of luggage with 
 which they travel. If the stage happens to be filled 
 with well-armed foreigners — Americans, English, Ger- 
 man, or French — it is generally allowed to pass unmo- 
 lested ; for well do the ladrones know that they will 
 not give up their property without a desperate strug- 
 gle. On the contrary, should the travellers be chiefly 
 Mexicans, with but a foreigner or two among them, the 
 load is at once put down as legitimate game, as the 
 former are almost invariably looked upon as non-com- 
 batants, who would rather be searched than shot. The 
 moment the spy ascertains the character and condition 
 of the passengers, with the chances of a successful at- 
 tack, he gallops off to give the information to his com- 
 panions, who are quietly waiting for him in some dark 
 defile or lonely barranca. 
 
 Should an attack be deemed expedient, the diligence 
 is suddenly waylaid in some well-known spot ; the pas- 
 sengers, if no resistance is made, are compelled to de- 
 scend from the vehicle, lie down with their faces to 
 the earth, and then submit to a thorough searching. 
 The baggage, in the mean while, is overhauled, and 
 every article of value abstracted, after which the un- 
 fortunate travellers are permitted to gather themselves 
 
372 
 
 COURTEOUS PLUNDERERS. 
 
 up and proceed on their journey. The robbers, whose 
 faces are almost invariably concealed by black crape, 
 have the reputation of being very gentlemanly in their 
 conduct, treating ladies with much respect and consid- 
 eration, and apologizing to the other sex for the trouble 
 and detention circumstances have compelled them to 
 cause. A friend of mine, who was unfortunate enough 
 to be travelling this road in the spring of 1843 with no 
 other than Mexican companions, was robbed near Rio 
 Frio by a party of ladrones. Their captain, as he 
 turned to ride off, touched his hat very politely, and 
 before giving our American the customary “ adios,” 
 said that he was extremely sorry thus to take liberties 
 with and incommode a stranger, trusted that the money 
 of which he had despoiled him would prove no serious 
 loss, and after hoping that he had more where that 
 came from, dashed off at a canter ! The fellows never 
 seem anxious to shed blood, firing into the stage only 
 when they anticipate resistance ; on no other occasion 
 is the life of the driver placed in jeopardy. 
 
 A volume of interesting anecdotes might be written, 
 filled entirely with accounts of the different robberies 
 which have taken place between the city of Mexico 
 and Vera Cruz. One only I will relate — a story told 
 of the laughable indignities offered the celebrated Senor 
 Garcia, Malibran’s father, while returning from the cap- 
 ital after giving a series of successful concerts. I have 
 now forgotten the exact point, but the very spot was 
 pointed out to me where the lawless brigands first way- 
 laid the great vocalist, as well as the stone or little hil- 
 lock upon which they mounted him, after the robbery, 
 and compelled him to sing several of his most popular 
 pieces. It would seem that the rascals had been reg- 
 ular patrons and warm admirers of Garcia while in the 
 
GARCIA AND THE LADRONES. 
 
 373 
 
 city ; for they not only knew him at once, but were 
 well acquainted with his music. After searching and 
 robbing him, they next perched him upon a little emi- 
 nence, gathered around in a circle, and after taking oft’ 
 their hats, one of them called for a favourite air. It 
 was in vain that the senor pleaded — told the brigands 
 he was hoarse, out of voice, indisposed — nothing would 
 do but he must give them a song. They openly told 
 him that they had listened, with pleasure, to his sur- 
 passing efforts in the city, and that they could not think 
 of allowing him to leave the country without giving a 
 “ farewell concert !” — the thing was impossible. Gar- 
 cia, with piteous face, again begged them to excuse 
 him, and was about to give a peremptory refusal, when 
 a call for a favourite Italian aria, accompanied by a 
 click of the lock of a carbine and a significant look 
 from one of his tormentors, convinced him that he must 
 sing now or forever after hold his peace. 
 
 With broken and tremulous voice he commenced his 
 song. A shower of hisses followed, which plainly told 
 that the strange audience would not put up with an ef- 
 fort so unworthy of the great vocalist. Another trial 
 was made — better, perhaps, than the first, but still fall- 
 ing far short of what the rascals knew Garcia to be ca- 
 pable of — and again they manifested their disapproba- 
 tion by hisses. Wound up to a pitch of desperation, 
 and, it is even said, stung with mortification and wound- 
 ed professional pride at being hissed, the senor once 
 more attempted the aria. This time he was more suc- 
 cessful, for applause rather than hisses greeted its con- 
 clusion. Another favourite piece was then called for, 
 and this was given with even greater effect and met 
 with more decided marks of applause : the rascals were 
 connoisseurs of music. Garcia improved, as the story 
 
 VOL. II.— I I 
 
374 
 
 PYRAMID OF CHOLULA. 
 
 runs, with every fresh song, and after giving several 
 pieces in a style which was perfectly satisfactory to the 
 brigands, he was greeted, at the conclusion of the last, 
 with a shower of “ bravas” and three rounds of ap- 
 plause ! Such is the tale related of the great vocalist 
 and his audience of robbers. 
 
 We passed the Rio Frio without molestation, and 
 early in the afternoon entered the valley of Puebla. 
 Scattered along by the roadside were the adobe houses 
 of the inhabitants, from each of which, as we rattled by, 
 some half dozen worthless Mexican dogs would jump 
 and dash at the stage. A shower of barks and yelps 
 from the curs would be duly honoured by us with a 
 shower of bullets and buckshot ; and as several of them 
 were seen to tumble over and commence kicking, it is 
 fairly presumable that the sun did not rise the next 
 morning on as many live dogs as on that of the day 
 when we passed through the once rich and fertile val- 
 ley of Puebla. 
 
 To the right of the road, in the distance, our driver 
 pointed out to us the grand pyramid of Cholula, with 
 what is left of that once sacred city. The vast mound 
 is fast crumbling away, while the former magnificent 
 city at its base, with its many inhabitants, is now said 
 to be falling into ruins and depopulating more and more 
 every year. 
 
 About four o’clock we entered Puebla, covered with 
 dust and with our faces much burned by the hot noon- 
 day sun. As we rattled down one of the main streets, 
 the Presidio where the Texans were confined was point- 
 ed out to us — a short ride farther, and the plaza, with the 
 rich and imposing cathedral of Puebla, was in plain 
 sight. With a crack of his, whip, and faster pace of 
 his horses, our driver dashed by the Portales — crowds 
 
TEXANS AT PUEBLA. 
 
 375 
 
 of admiring urchins gazing with eyes open to the ut- 
 most, while groups of girls scampered far out of the 
 way, as if fearful of being run over by the stage. A 
 short and abrupt turn of the street, and a trot of but a 
 few yards farther, and we were landed safe and sound 
 at the Casa de Diligencias, the best public house in Pue- 
 bla. Here we found the worthy American consul, Mr. 
 Black, with Messrs. Snively, Torry, Hough taling, and 
 Buchanan, four of our former comrades in imprison- 
 ment who had been given up to Judge Ellis, all com- 
 fortably quartered, and awaiting our arrival. 
 
 No sooner had we washed the dust from our faces, 
 and shaken and brushed the thickest of it from our 
 clothes, than, accompanied by the late minister, we vis- 
 ited the T exan prisoners at the Presidio. Our unfortu- 
 nate comrades were here confined in the same yard 
 with hundreds of Mexican criminals of the worst class, 
 chained together in pairs, employed during the day in 
 the city cleaning ditches, sewers, and other dirty work ; 
 covered with every species of vermin, poorly clad, 
 worse fed, and at night herded and guarded with the 
 low wretches who surrounded them. No comparison 
 between their treatment and that of the Texans in San- 
 tiago can be drawn, for the former were deprived of 
 such comfort as is found in a sufficiency of food, com- 
 paratively clean quarters, and the absence of such vile 
 association as the lowest malefactors afford. Thus 
 were men, whom Santa Anna openly avowed prisoners 
 of war, treated in Puebla. The population of this city 
 are said to entertain more hostile and bigoted feelings 
 towards “heretics and dogs,” as many of them are 
 wont to call the Americans and English, than those of 
 any other place in Mexico — it may be that this bitter 
 
376 
 
 CATHEDRAL OF PUEBLA. 
 
 hatred induced the inhuman treatment bestowed upon 
 the poor Texans. 
 
 After passing some half hour in the loathsome prison, 
 receiving such messages and letters as the inmates 
 wished us to convey to their friends in Texas and the 
 United States, we took our leave of them and hurried 
 back to our hotel to a late dinner which had been pro- 
 vided. I had wished to examine the interior of the rich 
 cathedra], so celebrated in the works of every traveller 
 through Mexico for its exceeding elegance and splen- 
 dour of adornment ; but the dusky shades of evening 
 had set in before I reached the edifice — the light was 
 shut out from the interior, and with it went my hopes 
 of seeing the costly chandelier, the famous statue of 
 the Virgin, which is described as almost crushed under 
 the weight of diamonds and precious stones, with the 
 other rich ornaments that decorate this temple — all 
 which wealth would be infinitely better applied were 
 the priests to open their hearts and devote it to the con- 
 struction of railroads and canals, mending the thorough- 
 fares, meliorating the condition of the lower classes, or 
 even paying off a portion of the immense internal and 
 foreign debt under which the country groans. 
 
 It was while this cathedral was in progress of erec- 
 tion that the miraculous aid of angels in the good work 
 was discovered. Every morning, on the assemblage 
 of the Mexican builders, they noticed with much sur- 
 prise that unseen hands had been toiling through the 
 night in the construction of the walls. That they must 
 be angels was considered a matter of course — through 
 no other agency could the heavy walls arise — and from 
 that day to this the city has been called Puebla de los 
 Angeles, or “ City of the Angels.” It is a neat, well- 
 built place, containing some sixty or seventy thousand 
 
A NOCTURNAL PROCESSION. 
 
 377 
 
 inhabitants, and of late has been gaining additional im- 
 portance from the establishment of numerous factories 
 in the vicinity. I roamed for some two hours through 
 the streets, squares, and market-places, jostling my way 
 through a crowd of ragged leperos on one occasion for 
 the purpose of obtaining a closer look at a long and 
 brilliantly-lighted religious procession. From a dark 
 doorway I watched the kneeling groups of men and 
 women congregated on either side of the street as the 
 procession passed, the light from the numerous torches 
 bringing out their swarthy features in bold relief, as with 
 deep devotion they raised their eyes upward and moved 
 their lips apparently in prayer. In half an hour after- 
 ward, knowing that the diligence was to start at three 
 the next morning, I repaired to the hotel, and was soon 
 
378 
 
 JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Preparations for Departure. — High Words with a Mexican Stage-agent. — 
 A Victory. — A Scotch Traveller. — No Room for another Passenger. — 
 Leave the “ City of the Angels.”— -Approach of an Escort. — Appearance 
 of the Dragoons. — Arrival at £1 Pinal. — Roadside Graves. — Change of 
 Horses. — A wild Mexican Steed and his Antics. — A rapid Start. — A no- 
 ted Stand for Robbers. — Another doughty Escort. — The Mai Pais and Cer- 
 ro de Pizarro. — Arrival at Perote. — Visit to the Texan Prisoners. — Their 
 Condition.— A vile Supper. — A French Lady. — Another early Start. — Cold- 
 ness of the Mountain Air. — A false Alarm. — Colder and Colder. — Tierras 
 Frias. — Arrival at Las Vigas. — In want of Refreshments. — “No hai” and 
 “ Quien sabe” again. — Wild Mountain Scenery. — Volcapic Formations.^— 
 El Cofre de Perote. — Strange Indian Legend.— Leave the Region of Lava. 
 — Remarkable Change of Scene and Climate. — Sudden Transition. — Halt 
 at the House of a Mexican Lady. — Singularity of her Conduct. — La Giie- 
 ra Rodriguez. — Examination of our Passports at the Garita. — Arrival at 
 Jalapa. 
 
 We were awaked at two o’clock in the morning by 
 a servant with the old announcement, which has annoy- 
 ed so many thousands of travellers, “ stage is ready, 
 gentlemen.” Huddling on our clothes as rapidly as 
 possible, we descended to the patio of the hotel, stum- 
 bling over a sleeping Mexican rolled in his blanket in 
 the passage-way, and treading upon one leg of a worth- 
 less cur, which went whining off on the other three. 
 
 Repairing at once to the stage, we found one of our 
 passengers engaged in high words with the agent, a 
 Mexican, who insisted upon sending a set of harness to 
 Perote upon the top of the coach. There were fourteen 
 passengers belonging to our party, all good-sized men, 
 and these fourteen were to be stowed in and upon a 
 common, Troy-built coach, intended only to carry nine 
 
OBSTINACY DEFEATED. 
 
 379 
 
 inside, with a seat for two on the box with the driver. 
 Of course three of us were compelled to perch our- 
 selves upon the extreme top of the coach, and as a 
 heavy harness, with its strong iron buckles and other 
 appurtenances, afforded anything but a soft or comfort- 
 able bed, its transportation by this particular stage, it 
 was at first respectfully contended, was putting all 
 hands to serious annoyance. The agent said this was 
 a matter we must settle among ourselves — the harness 
 he was obliged to forward by this conveyance. A pas- 
 senger, who had already taken his station upon the top 
 of the stage, now expressed a doubt whether the objec- 
 tionable baggage would be allowed peaceable and quiet 
 possession of its quarters in case the Mexican insisted 
 upon giving it a berth — the latter, after a little frothy 
 vapour, threw the harness upon the stage. The next 
 moment a shower, very much resembling horse collars, 
 traces, and girths, was falling upon the head of the 
 agent, accompanied by a general laugh at his expense. 
 Finding it impossible to carry his point, the fellow now 
 slunk into the office, muttering a variety of unbecoming 
 Spanish oaths as he went. 
 
 By this time our trunks were all safely stowed in the 
 boot, and the inside of the stage was wedged with the 
 substance of as many as could possibly crowd into the 
 contracted quarters. Some of the younger passengers 
 — harum-scarum fellows who were anxious that the la- 
 drones might give us a call upon the road — recom- 
 mended that we should all conceal our weapons under 
 our sarapes and cloaks. A crowd of Mexicans were 
 standing around the diligence, some of whom were evi- 
 dently spies ; and it was thought that if they should dis- 
 cover no arms about us they might give their compan- 
 ions such information as would draw them into a snare 
 
380 
 
 AN INDISCREET SCOTCHMAN. 
 
 of guns, pistols, swords, and bowie-knives. But this 
 plan was overruled by one of the older and more pru- 
 dent travellers, on the ground that the robbers, should 
 they see fit to attack us, would probably fire directly 
 into the stage without previous parley, and thereby gain 
 an advantage at the expense, perhaps, of the lives of 
 some of the passengers. 
 
 As we were about leaving, a Scotchman came hasti- 
 ly down the stairs, dragging a trunk by the handle, 
 and shouting that he was a passenger for Yera Cruz, 
 and must have a seat. There are two stages running 
 daily between the city of Mexico and Puebla, in one of 
 which, with a party of Mexicans, he had made the trip 
 on the previous day ; but as this stage went no farther, 
 the Scotchman was anxious to go directly on with us. 
 He was a stout, healthy man, dressed in a suit of blue 
 clothes, and as he well knew that we were all armed, 
 no better chance for a safe transit to himself and chat- 
 tels could possibly offer. We told him there was no 
 room — no possible opening for another passenger : he 
 said he had a sum of money about him, and that if we 
 did not give him a seat he should be robbed of it the 
 next day — he was sure he should. ITe even announced 
 to some of the by-standing Mexicans, in their own lan- 
 guage, the fact of his having money ; for in his eager- 
 ness to obtain a seat with us he was drawn into a de- 
 parture from prudence not very common with his coun- 
 trymen. On finally ascertaining, to his own conviction 
 if not satisfaction, that there was no room for him — not 
 even a chance to hang on to any part of the stage — he 
 reluctantly gave up all hope of prosecuting his journey 
 until the morrow. As we left the place, after having 
 shaken hands for the last time with Mr. Black, we could 
 still see the sorrowful countenance of the poor Scotch- 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR ROBBERS. 
 
 381 
 
 man, as he stood in the patio with one end of his trunk 
 resting against his knee, while his fingers were securely 
 clasped around the handle. 
 
 After a short drive we passed the outskirts of the 
 “ City of the Angels,” and struck into the open country. 
 One of the most noted stands, or rather hiding-places, 
 for the robbers, is within hearing of the town, and just 
 as we were reaching the spot a clattering of horses’ 
 hoofs was heard rapidly approaching. Fourteen pairs 
 of eyes were instantly peering into the darkness to as- 
 certain the nature of the party, while at least twice 
 fourteen pairs of pistols were pointing in the same di- 
 rection to be ready for any emergency. The horse- 
 men turned out to be a detachment of some half dozen 
 dragoons, sent out from the barracks to protect and suc- 
 cour us in case of an attack from the ladrones. Muf- 
 fled in their yellow military cloaks, for the early morn- 
 ing air was raw and biting, the fellows appeared well 
 enough as their horses clattered along on either side of 
 the stage; but we were now seeing them in the most 
 favourable light. Long before the sun had risen above 
 the eastern mountains, dispelling that darkness and 
 chillness which precede daybreak, our doughty guards- 
 men had uncloaked themselves, and sat before us in all 
 their inefficiency. Very respectable scarecrows I have 
 little doubt they would have made, stuck about judi- 
 ciously in a corn-field ; but I have a better opinion of 
 the Mexican brigands than to suppose, for one moment, 
 that such a set of ill-appointed, badly-armed apologies 
 for soldiers could in the least intimidate them if they 
 had meditated an attack. We openly told them they 
 might canter back to their barracks, and finish their 
 morning nap ; for no more dependance could be placed 
 on ihem than on an equal number of the crosses stuck 
 
382 
 
 A VICIOUS HORSE. 
 
 by the roadside. With the first appearance of danger 
 they would undoubtedly have left us, and at a speed as 
 great as their horses could conveniently accomplish, if 
 not faster. 
 
 At a rapid pace we sped across the valley which en- 
 circles Puebla, passing the noted robbing-post without 
 meeting other than the usual number of market people, 
 wending their way to the city and driving their don- 
 keys before them. Our driver allowed his horses to 
 slacken their pace as we ascended the pine-clad hills 
 known as the Pinal. This lonely forest is another noted 
 haunt for the ladrones ; but we passed through it seeing 
 nothing more alarming than the numerous crosses 
 which pointed to the spots where murder had done its 
 work, and hearing naught more terrifying than the 
 wind sighing mournfully in the pine tops — a sad re- 
 quiem, it seemed, for the rest of the departed victims. 
 Many thrilling tales did our driver relate of these road- 
 side graves. 
 
 About the middle of the day we changed horses at a 
 meson built near a large spring of warmish water. The 
 circumstance I recollect from the fact that one of the 
 fresh horses was a wild, vicious creature, not only dis- 
 posed to break our necks, but having no apparent mark- 
 ed regard for the safety of his own. In Mexico they 
 frequently hitch five horses to a stage, two on the pole 
 as is the custom in the United States, while the three 
 leaders are harnessed abreast. In the present instance 
 one of the leaders acted as wildly as would a fresh- 
 caught mustang ; leaped entirely over the heads of his 
 fellows, wound himself up in the traces, and reared, 
 pitched, and kicked in such a manner, notwithstanding 
 the efforts of half a dozen Mexican hostlers, that he was 
 
THE TABLES TURNED. 
 
 383 
 
 soon free from all encumbrances. After several at- 
 tempts, the driver was so far successful as once more 
 to place harness upon the vicious animal’s back ; but no 
 sooner had the stable boys released him from the strong 
 halters with which he had been held, than he jumped 
 and dashed off at a furious pace, imparting his own 
 fright to the rest of the team, and threatening us all 
 with a dangerous upset. For some distance the mad 
 steed pressed forward, the driver in vain attempting to 
 check him ; and it was only when much exhausted by 
 his efforts that he slackened his onward course in the 
 least. It was now the driver’s turn. “You’ve run a 
 spell on your own account,” said the Yankee, address- 
 ing the tired animal ; and then, after a loud crack from 
 his whip, finished the sentence with “ you’ve got to run a 
 piece farther on mine.” And run he did, and at a rap- 
 id pace too ; for determined to subdue his vicious spir- 
 it, and break him of his mad pranks, the driver forced 
 him onward until the reeking team could no longer 
 withstand the killing pace. A short time after this oc- 
 currence, we approached still another celebrated stand 
 for robbers — a dreary spot upon a wide, sandy plain, 
 with a few scattering clumps of thornbushes and rocky 
 hills in the vicinity, which afford a cover for the gentle- 
 men of the road. As we drew near the spot an escort 
 of badly-mounted dragoons came out to meet us from 
 an adobe-built hovel some little distance from the road. 
 As they formed themselves on either side of the stage 
 they were told that we could dispense with their ser- 
 vices ; but the valiant fellows, thinking of the money 
 which it is expected the passengers will pay them, and 
 of the drunken frolic which is sure to follow, insisted 
 upon seeing us safely through all dangers as far as Pe- 
 rote. 
 
384 
 
 PRISONERS AT PEROTE. 
 
 It was about four o’clock in the afternoon, after we 
 had crossed the mol pais, or bad country, as it is called, 
 and taken a survey of the huge volcanic mass known 
 as the Cerro de Pizarro, that we reached the stage tav- 
 ern at this dreary and desolate place. As we entered 
 the patio of the inn, a crowd of bad-visaged fellows con- 
 gregated about us, scrutinizing our weapons and the 
 general appearance of the party. If some of them were 
 not robbers and cutthroats, their faces villanously be- 
 lied them. 
 
 No sooner had we safely secured and locked up our 
 baggage, than we inquired and took the way towards 
 the castle in which General McLeod, and a party of 
 the officers and men attached to the Santa Fe Expedi- 
 tion, were confined. A short parley with an officer at 
 the ponderous gate of the fortress, and we were permit- 
 ted to enter. Our former comrades had just returned 
 from their work at a neighbouring stone quarry. They 
 crowded around us, and knowing that our visit must 
 necessarily be short, with eager inquiries asked intelli- 
 gence in relation to their friends at Puebla and the city 
 of Mexico — pressing question upon question in such 
 rapid succession that to answer one half of them was 
 impossible. Their situation, in many respects, was 
 preferable to that of the prisoners at Puebla, for their 
 quarters were cleaner and more comfortable, and the 
 Mexican criminals were confined in separate apart- 
 ments ; yet the castle is but a cold and dreary place at 
 best, being situated at an elevation far above the level 
 of the sea, bleak and exposed, and where the biting 
 winds from the surrounding snow-clad mountains have 
 full and powerful sway. After receiving messages 
 and letters innumerable from the poor fellows, and 
 
THE CHEST OF PEROTE. 
 
 385 
 
 promising to make known their situation, we bade 
 them farewell, and retraced our steps to the tavern.* 
 Here we found that the stage from Jalapa had ar- 
 rived, and that our supper was ready — a vile, greasy 
 repast, to which nothing lent sauce or aid save the re- 
 membrance of worse, and the hearty appetites we had 
 contracted by our long ride. Among the passengers 
 from Yera Cruz was a French lady with a little child, 
 the mother on her way, without a protector, to join her 
 husband at Zacatecas. We could not but admire the 
 boldness of the lone female, who had undertaken a jour- 
 ney so long and so perilous. 
 
 After smoking our cigars, and watching the ice-in- 
 crusted sides of the towering mountain peaks in the vi- 
 cinity, as the setting sun clothed them with silvery 
 lustre, we retired to rest. At two o’clock in the morn- 
 ing we were aroused from sleep by a servant, and in 
 half an hour, after swallowing a cup of chocolate in the 
 dirty cocina attached to the tavern, we muffled our- 
 selves in cloaks, greatcoats, and sarapes, and, shiver- 
 ing with the early morning cold of this bleak region, 
 took our seats in the diligence and were again on the 
 road towards Jalapa. 
 
 If the air was raw and chilly at starting, it was doubly 
 so as we ascended the gradual slope which brings the 
 traveller near the base of the celebrated Cofre de Perote. 
 We had entered the gorge of a gloomy barranca, such 
 of us as were within the coach nestling close to each 
 other for warmth and with the vain hope of finishing 
 
 * Notwithstanding the isolated situation and great strength of the castle 
 of Perote, several successful escapes have been effected within the past 
 year by Texans confined within its walls. They suffered much from want 
 of food, water, and sufficient clothing in the mountains, but eventually ar- 
 rived safely, either in the United States or Texas. 
 
 VOL. II.— K K 
 
386 
 
 A FALSE ALARM. 
 
 the sleep from which we had been disturbed, when the 
 report of a heavy pistol from the top, and the cry of 
 “ Ladrones !” “ Ladrones !” startled us as with an elec- 
 tric shock. The loud laugh from the region of the dri- 
 ver instantly convinced us that it was a false alarm — 
 an eccentricity, merely, of some wag on the top of the 
 coach, who only wished to get up a little excitement. 
 The place chosen was certainly well adapted for a joke 
 of the kind ; for a more dark, dismal, piratical haunt 
 to all outward seeming was never chosen by free- 
 booters. 
 
 As the morning advanced towards daybreak, and a 
 higher region was attained, the cold appeared to in- 
 crease. The air was damp and disagreeable to a de- 
 gree — a chill fog rested lazily in the lower atmosphere 
 ■ — it seemed as though we were cutting our way through 
 frozen clouds. On reaching the high mountain hamlet 
 of Las Yigas # we were directly in the tierra fria , or 
 cold country, at an elevation of nearly eight thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea. The driver halted for 
 some ten or fifteen minutes, but whether to change or 
 water his horses I am unable to say : I only know that 
 we dragged our benumbed limbs from the stage, and by 
 dint of much shouting, pounding, kicking, and knocking 
 were enabled to arouse a Mexican family from their 
 slumbers and effect an entrance within doors. No oth- 
 er refreshment could we obtain than rank Catalan bran- 
 dy, as it is called, strong as alcohol itself, and with the 
 flavour of ley or a tea made of potash. With teeth 
 chattering we called for coffee, chocolate — for some- 
 
 * The literal translation of Las Vigas is the beams or timbers. The houses 
 of the village are constructed of logs— the first and almost the only dwellings 
 of the kind 1 saw in Mexico — a circumstance from which the place probably 
 received its name. 
 
ASCENDING MOUNTAINS. 
 
 387 
 
 thing warm. “No hai,” was the chilling answer. We 
 asked the stupid, half-asleep master of the dwelling if 
 he could tell us where we could obtain the desired re- 
 freshments. The eternal “ Quien sabe?” was the only 
 rejoinder. How the inhabitants of Las Yigas obtain 
 a livelihood is a mystery. Of course we could see no- 
 thing of the face of the country in the vicinity of the 
 village ; but judging from the feeling of the cold mount- 
 ain air, it would seem impossible for even Greenland 
 moss to withstand it — so keen, so cutting, so penetrating. 
 
 Muffling again in our blankets and cloaks, we enter- 
 ed the stage and resumed the journey. As the sun be- 
 gan to disperse the mists and fogs of morning we were 
 awakened to a full realization of the wild mountain gran- 
 deur which surrounded us. We were already at an 
 elevation several thousand feet higher than the loftiest 
 summits of the United States ; yet it seemed to us, as 
 we gazed upward to the cloud-capped peaks, that we 
 were at the base of huge, towering mountains, thrusting 
 their lofty heads even into the very vault of heaven. As we 
 commenced descending the rough and rocky road which 
 leads down the lower mountain sides, the prospect be- 
 low us was concealed by an immense sea of misty, 
 cloudy vapour, reaching far as human vision could pen- 
 etrate — looking back, the fog was still above us — it ap- 
 peared as though we were travelling directly between 
 two stratas of cloud. Such of the country as we could 
 see immediately around us, bore evident marks of its 
 volcanic formation. In one spot a huge mass of rock, 
 evidently the upheaving of some strong throe of nature, 
 was plainly visible ; in another, a bed of hard, black 
 lava, with the appearance of having been poured down 
 in a liquid stream and of having cooled as it fell, gave 
 farther evidence of the mighty convulsions nature has 
 
388 
 
 AN EXTINCT VOLCANO. 
 
 undergone in this wild region in bygone times, and of 
 the violent and tremendous efforts by which she has re- 
 lieved herself of some burning, inward fever. The 
 gnarled and stunted firs and oaks, which have found 
 root among the different volcanic masses, show that they 
 have wrestled powerfully for nourishment and growth. 
 
 With astonishment the traveller looks at the beds of 
 lava, and masses of broken rock he sees on every side 
 — so fresh and with such a seeming newness that he 
 cannot imagine more than a few months, or years at far- 
 thest, to have rolled away since they were first deposit- 
 ed ; yet even the oldest legends of the aborigines, their 
 most remote traditions, carry him not back to the awful 
 disruption which placed them theVe. The Indians point 
 to the now extinct volcano upon the Cofre de Perote 
 as the point from which came the shower of burning 
 lava and rocks that has rendered this section desolate, 
 but offer no surmise as to the time when the crater 
 belched forth its storm of destruction ; and the mind, in 
 attempting to trace the interval which has since elap- 
 sed, is soon lost in the wide and mazy fields of conjec- 
 ture. 
 
 El Cofre de Perote, or The Chest of Perote — so call- 
 ed from the fact that its sides bear strong resemblance 
 to a trunk or chest — was, ages since, a volcano, and the 
 different volcanic formations over which we were now 
 journeying were doubtless belched from its yawning but 
 long-smothered crater. Awful must have been the 
 throes, the mighty workings and convulsions, of the 
 huge mass of mountain while in labour. Imagination 
 shudders and turns pale, the mind is awe-stricken, as 
 the immense rocks are reviewed by the eye — rocks 
 which are of themselves hills, and which must have been 
 quarried, torn, riven, and hurled upward from the bow- 
 
SINGULAR INDIAN LEGEND. 
 
 389 
 
 els of the earth by the elemental fever within, and, af- 
 ter soaring high in air, descended, amid streams of 
 burning lava, a red-hot deluge of mighty fragments. 
 
 I have said that the Indians have no tradition of the 
 time when this terrible convulsion occurred, but they re- 
 late a story of its causes and effects — a story which I 
 will here insert for its singularity and simplicity. Pre- 
 vious to the first eruption, the mountain was fertile, 
 peaceful, and well behaved as its brother mountains, 
 and was the joint property of a deer, a tiger, a leopard, 
 and a bear. For a long time these animals, so discord- 
 ant in temperament, lived in the greatest amity togeth- 
 er, each roaming over a particular section which was 
 set apart for him, and never trespassing upon the land 
 of his neighbour ; but by-and-by the bear, either from 
 lack of forage within Iris own specified limits, or from a 
 natural proneness to interfere with the just rights of his 
 neighbours, crossed, after the manner of certain govern- 
 ments of more recent times, the prescribed boundary 
 lines, and made inroads upon the domain adjoining his 
 own territory. The deer, the tiger, and the leopard, 
 upon learning this trespass, held public consultation, and 
 warned their neighbour of his encroachments and of 
 their determination not to submit to outrages of the 
 kind. The bear threw defiance in their teeth, and in- 
 sisted upon roaming the mountain-sides at will ; where- 
 upon the deer, the tiger, and the leopard made common 
 cause against a common enemy, joined their forces, and 
 declared war at once. What part the deer took in this 
 struggle is not related, but among them they drove, 
 worried, and chased the bear from point to point, giv- 
 ing no rest to the soles of his feet until he reached the 
 summit of the mountain, where they encompassed and 
 beleaguered him about with the full intention of starv- 
 K k 2 
 
390 
 
 THE FIRE KING. 
 
 ing him into terms. But the bear was not to be thus 
 hemmed in by his adversaries ; so, bethinking him that 
 there was no other means of escape, he commenced 
 digging through the mountain with his paws, firmly de- 
 termined uporl working a passage to the lower side. 
 Deeper and deeper did he force his way, toiling dili- 
 gently, until at length he came upon the evil spirit Tla- 
 catecolototl, who was lying asleep in an immense fire 
 cave. Not aware of this new danger, the bear still 
 pawed and dug away, and not until he had scratched 
 the slumbering fiend upon the nose did he cease from 
 his labour. Tlacatecolototl awoke from his sleep, and 
 instantly all was rumbling and commotion. The bear 
 retreated upward ; but the enraged fiend pursued him 
 with a shower of fire, and drove him for succour to his 
 former enemies. lie hugged, with all love and famil- 
 iarity, the deer, the tiger, and the leopard wherever he 
 met them, and was successful in quieting their just dis- 
 pleasure ; but the fury of the fire-fiend was not to be 
 appeased. He pursued the bear with red-hot stones, 
 with streams of burning lava, with an avalanche of fire 
 — his rage waxed fiercer and more fierce — the fair 
 mountain-sides were lurid and made desolate with the 
 implements of his strange revenge — and never did the 
 torrent of destruction slacken until a good Indian shot 
 the bear and ate him : then was the mighty wrath of 
 Tlacatecolototl assuaged, and he retired once more to 
 his bed of fire. Such is the marvellous tradition of the 
 simple natives in relation to this long extinct volcano. 
 
 As we left the region of lava, the morning air became 
 more mild, vegetation of more luxuriant growth took 
 the place of the stunted pines and firs, and the ocean of 
 vapour far below us began to dissipate under the influ- 
 ence of the sun. Turning our eyes back, we could see 
 
SUDDEN TRANSITIONS. 
 
 391 
 
 scudding masses of fog and cloud creeping up the 
 mountain-sides, and fast hiding and dispersing them- 
 selves apparently among the clefts and fissures. The 
 stage rattled more rapidly down the winding road, and 
 at every step new beauties presented themselves. Ev- 
 ery revolution of the wheels seemed to bring us into a 
 new climate — each succeeding minute brought with it 
 an air more bland and balmy. Birds of bright plumage 
 were seen crossing the road, and fluttering from copse 
 to copse of deep-green foliage, while here and there a 
 rude dwelling, surrounded by a small patch of ground 
 richly cultivated, relieved the rugged asperities of the 
 mountain cliffs. So sudden is the transition, that a short 
 hour conducts the traveller from bleak and dreary win- 
 ter to bright and sunny spring — a winter which it seems 
 to him is unchangeable, a spring which is eternal. At 
 one moment, as it were, he is shrugging, shivering, and 
 rubbing his hands in the tierras frias — the next he is 
 basking in the soft sunshine of the tierras templadas , 
 or temperate lands, amid orange groves and flowers in- 
 numerable. A single day’s travel in Mexico carries 
 the traveller from the heat and verdure of unchanging 
 summer, to the cold and sterile face of undying winter. 
 
 When within a few short miles of Jalapa, the morn- 
 ing fog had entirely dispersed, the sun was out in all 
 his splendour, and the ocean of cloud had given way to 
 a vast expanse of green — we were looking down upon 
 the tierra caliente, the land of summer’s heat and sum- 
 mer’s verdure. The driver halted for a few moments 
 at the house of a Mexican lady, and allowed us to alight. 
 We entered the dwelling, the front of which was al- 
 most concealed from view by creeping vines and differ- 
 ent species of rose and other flowering bushes. The 
 mistress of this sylvan retreat, a stout, handsome-faced 
 
392 
 
 LOVE AND CONSTANCY. 
 
 woman, some thirty years of age, instantly beset us 
 with inquiries in relation to some American she had 
 known formerly — a colonel she called him, but the 
 name I do not remember. His hair, features, size, and 
 all were described with a minuteness which convinced 
 us that his image still lingered in the memory of the 
 fair questioner, but not one of us could give her infor- 
 mation which seemed satisfactory. She kindly asked 
 us to partake of refreshments ; but mingled with her 
 pressing invitations were farther inquiries about the 
 colonel — thoughts of one, who evidently occupied a 
 strong hold in her affections, never left her while there 
 was a ray of hope that some one of us might possibly 
 know him. 
 
 When we were again on the road, the driver inform- 
 ed us that for many years this woman had been earnest 
 in her inquiries respecting the colonel. In her artless 
 simplicity she had asked all foreigners alike for informa- 
 tion — one whom she knew so well must surely be known 
 by others — but had never been able to gather a gleam 
 of intelligence of the long-lost one. Love, as a matter 
 of course, was at the bottom — was the mainspring 
 which actuated her in her inquiries. Some roving, 
 blue-eyed, light-haired American had won her affections 
 in early life, and those affections continue as warm as 
 ever for the guero , as she called him. In Mexico all 
 light-haired men are termed guero — yellow locks, blue 
 eyes, and a fair complexion, are so uncommon in that 
 country, that the possession of them is a passport di- 
 rectly to the affections of the opposite sex. Among the 
 celebrated beauties of Mexico, and one who held sway 
 as a reigning belle for many years, was La Giiera 
 Rodriguez, or The Light-haired Rodriguez. In Hum- 
 boldt’s time her empire over the hearts of all was su- 
 
JALAPA. 
 
 393 
 
 preme in Mexico ; and although a beautiful and fasci- 
 nating woman in every respect, much of her celebrity 
 and ascendancy she owed to the circumstance of her 
 having light hair. She is still alive, I believe, and her 
 society is still courted by all, although her light locks 
 have long since faded. 
 
 From the residence of the Mexican lady at which we 
 had called — a place where the driver stops to water his 
 horses and allow her to press her questions — the road 
 runs through a cultivated country until it reaches Jala- 
 pa, distant some three or four miles. It was Sunday, 
 and the road was filled, chiefly with pedestrians, on their 
 way to the city to mass, to market, or some merry- 
 making. The air was richly perfumed with the fra- 
 grance of innumerable flowers — the roadside was bor- 
 dered with that luxuriant vegetation which appears to 
 belong to this climate. We were compelled to halt a 
 few minutes at the garita to show our passports — this 
 examination over, we were again on the road, and in a 
 short time were descending the steep declivity which 
 has been chosen as the site for Jalapa. The stage 
 wound slowly down the precipitous streets, passed 
 through the crowded market-place, turned into the 
 Calle Principal, and safely deposited us in the patio of 
 the Casa de Diligencias in season for breakfast. We 
 were now revelling in a soft and wooing climate, of 
 spring-like temperature — two hours before we were 
 shivering in an atmosphere which would freeze an Ice- 
 lander. 
 
394 
 
 MEXICAN SOLDIERS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 The Cracovienne. — Large Body of Mexican Troops. — Their Inefficiency .- 
 Speculations as to the Result of an Invasion of Mexico. — The Vomito at 
 Vera Cruz. — Determination to remain at Jalapa. — The Scotchman we had 
 left at Puebla arrives.— Work of the Robbers. — Indian Girls from the 
 Tierra Caliente. — Picturesque and neat Style of Dressing their Hair. — A 
 pleasant Ride. — Departure from Jalapa. — Description of the Litera. — 
 Changing Teams. — Mexican Drivers. — Puente Nacional.^Night Ride 
 through the Hot Country.— Residence of Santa Anna. — Fireflies. — Santa 
 Fe. — Number of Dogs in the Vicinity. — Singular District.— The Gulf of 
 Mexico in Sight. — Arrival at Vera Cruz. — A Conducta. — Sopilotes. — The 
 Black Vomit again.- — Arrival on board the Woodbury. — Commodore Ma 
 rin. — Salutes. — Under Way. — Pleasant Passage. — The Balize in Sight. — 
 Author’s Leave of his Reader. 
 
 We had no sooner alighted from the stage, stretched 
 our stiffened limbs, and attended well to the safety of 
 our baggage, than the enlivening notes of the Cfaco- 
 vienne, played by a large and well-organized military 
 band, reached our ears from without. On going to the 
 front doors and balconies of the hotel, we ascertained 
 that there was a full parade of all the regular troops 
 then stationed at Jalapa, several thousands in number, 
 and for half an hour we watched the solid platoons as 
 they marched past. A majority of the men, although 
 they were now cleaned up and had uniforms upon their 
 backs, were doubtless ragged and wretched convicts 
 but a few months before, and driven to the capital tied 
 in strings. Such men, destitute alike of moral princi- 
 ple, pride, and that love of country which is a main re- 
 quisite, can never be manufactured into effective sol- 
 diers under any discipline ; but when to their natural 
 deficiencies is added the fact that the majority of their 
 
DEFENCES OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 395 
 
 officers are taken from the higher classes and placed at 
 once at the heads of companies and regiments, without 
 either theoretical or practical knowledge of arms, little 
 need be expected from a force thus constituted. In 
 case of a foreign invasion, such a force could be crush- 
 ed at once by one fourth the number of well-disciplined 
 troops ; but the invading army would encounter other 
 difficulties than the meeting with such defenders. It is 
 much easier to say that ten thousand well-appointed 
 Americans or Englishmen can march from the seacoast 
 directly to the city of Mexico than to do it. The ordi- 
 nary troops of the country would offer but few obsta- 
 cles, would be little in the way could they be brought 
 to battle in the open field ; the strong natural barriers 
 against invasion in the shape of mountain fastnesses, a 
 better class of troops to be met in the vicinity of the 
 capital, the opposition of the hardy rancheros who 
 would at once be drawn into the contest, combined 
 with a religious phrensy which would doubtless be crea- 
 ted and kept np by the priests — all these obstacles must 
 be encountered on the road to Mexico. I do not say 
 that they could not be surmounted — far from it — I 
 only wish to offer the opinion that something more 
 than mere hoi yd ay work might be expected by those 
 who should set out on such an undertaking. Of the 
 troops we saw that morning at Jalapa a large portion 
 have since perished — some at Vera Cruz, but the great- 
 er number in Y ucatan, where they were either cut off 
 in the vain attempt of Santa Anna to subdue his refrac- 
 tory subjects during the years ’42 and ’43, or by the 
 malaria and dreaded sickness of that unhealthy cli- 
 mate. 
 
 On arriving at Jalapa, Judge Ellis found letters await- 
 ing him which gave the information that the vomito, or 
 
396 
 
 THE SCOTCHMAN AGAIN. 
 
 yellow fever, had broken out on board the cutter Wood- 
 bury, the vessel in which we were to sail forNew-Orleans, 
 and which was then lying under the Castle of San Juan 
 de Ulua at Vera Cruz. One or two of the officers, be- 
 sides several of the men, were down with the disease, 
 and as it was deemed imprudent to sail with it on board, 
 Judge E. was advised to remain at Jalapa until farther 
 intelligence should be sent him. Several of the passen- 
 gers determined upon proceeding at once to Yera Cruz, 
 regardless of the fever ; but the larger number remain- 
 ed behind, and took lodgings which the ex-minister pro- 
 cured for us at the hotel of an American. 
 
 On the arrival of the next stage from Puebla, we 
 crowded around it to note the passengers and gather 
 any intelligence that might be brought. There were 
 but five travellers, three or four of them Mexican offi- 
 cers, and our Scotch friend for whom we could not make 
 room the morning we left the “ City of the Angels.” 
 His face wore a lugubriously comie expression as he 
 alighted from the diligence, while his vestments gave 
 token of a change of wardrobe other than the difference 
 of climate called for. Instead of the substantial blue 
 cloth coat, of goodly dimensions and excellent preser- 
 vation, which had graced his upper man when we left 
 him standing by his trunk, his arms and shoulders were 
 now tightly encased within a yellow Nankin short jack- 
 et, a world too small, while his head was partially cov- 
 ered by a queer hat much the worse for wear. He 
 recognised us immediately, and with a face half-sorrow- 
 ful, half-upbraiding, exclaimed, “You see me,” at the 
 same time turning himself round so that we could be 
 brought to a full realization of his unfortunate plight. 
 “ I told you so,” he continued, “ I knew it — I said so at 
 first. Talk about Scotch mists — I came near perishing 
 
DELIGHTS OF JALAPA. 
 
 397 
 
 this morning on the mountains — greatcoat and all are 
 gone.” Not one word did he say about robbers ; yet 
 his broken sentences and forlorn appearance told plain- 
 ly enough that he had fallen into the hands of highway- 
 men. After a little, he related the particulars of his 
 having been robbed a few miles from Puebla. The 
 brigands had an easy task, as save himself there was no 
 foreigner in the coach. The passengers, one and all, 
 were compelled to lie down with their faces to the earth, 
 were stripped of everything valuable in the shape of 
 money and clothing, and then allowed to proceed. In 
 telling his story, the Scotchman mixed up with his dis- 
 course hearty and abundant curses against the Mexi- 
 cans in general and the ladrones in particular, conclu- 
 ding with the remark that if he was once more fortunate 
 enough to see his own native hills he would not be 
 caught in outlandish parts again ; but the most amusing 
 feature of it was, the pride he appeared to take in his 
 powers of divination — in the fact of his having told us, 
 at Puebla, that he should be robbed, and the event turn- 
 ing out precisely as he had anticipated. 
 
 We passed some week or ten days at Jalapa, and 
 pleasantly, too ; for nothing can exceed the balminess 
 and spring-like beauties of its climate, the exceeding 
 richness of its endless variety of fruits, the delicious fra- 
 grance of its atmosphere, which is loaded with the per- 
 fume of innumerable flowers, or the picturesque views 
 and romantic rides which abound in its vicinity. Pine- 
 apples, gathered from the stem ripe and of most luscious 
 flavour, can be purchased for a trifle, and in this pure 
 climate eaten without fear of consequences. Chirimo- 
 yas here arrive at their full perfection, bananas, such as 
 I have never seen elsewhere, grow in most lavish pro- 
 fusion, while all the fruits of the tropics appear to be 
 
 Vol. II.— L L 
 
398 
 
 INDIAN GIRLS. 
 
 found in abundance. Often did I watch a party of In- 
 dian girls from the tierra caliente below, sitting upon 
 the sidewalk opposite the Casa de Diligencias, selling, 
 for a few coppers, plums of rare and delicious quality. 
 Their loose dress seemed peculiarly adapted to the cli- 
 mate, and would of itself attract not a little attention 
 from the foreigner ; but their rich, bright olive complex- 
 ions, their dark, mild eyes, and luxuriant hair, of glossy 
 blackness and reaching nearly to the ground, formed 
 their principal attractions. Upon their hair they be- 
 stow all their care and attention, and justly are they 
 proud of it. Their mode of dressing this ornamental 
 appendage is peculiarly their own. Two long braids, 
 reaching nearly to the ground, fall from the back of the 
 head, while two other braids, after circling the head 
 twice, are fastened in front, with a rose or some other 
 flower confined at the point where the ends meet. 
 These braids are composed of two strands of hair and 
 one of red cord or riband, neatly platted, lending an ad- 
 ditional beauty to their otherwise picturesque appear- 
 ance. Their dress is simple enough, consisting of a pet- 
 ticoat of some woollen stuff, without an under garment 
 of any description ; but in place of the latter they wear 
 an oblong piece of cotton or linen cloth, elaborately or- 
 namented, in many cases, with needlework, over their 
 shoulders as a protection from the sun. Directly in the 
 centre a hole is cut, large enough to admit the head — 
 thus is this singular garment worn, and it certainly has 
 a cool and comfortable appearance in a warm climate, 
 if nothing more. 
 
 We were told that the girls lived at a village several 
 leagues below Jalapa, a romantic situation upon the 
 borders of a clear and swift stream, in which they bathe 
 and wash their hair twice a day. The males are de- 
 
TROPICAL ABUNDANCE. 
 
 399 
 
 scribed as lazy, worthless, drunken fellows, living en- 
 tirely upon the industry of the women ; but the latter 
 are invariably cleanly, frugal, laborious, and, singular 
 enough for this country, virtuous. We intended paying 
 their village a visit before we came away, for we heard 
 many stories of its surpassing beauty of location ; but 
 some circumstance which I have now forgotten pre- 
 vented us. A party of us, however, had a pleasant ride 
 to another Indian town several leagues below Jalapa. 
 It was during this excursion that I for the first time saw 
 the coffee plant, the pineapple, the vanilla bean, and 
 other products of the tropics, under cultivation, as also 
 the weed from which the nauseous jalap, that medi- 
 cine which has given this place a name, is extracted. 
 The view of the city from several points below, as it 
 stands boldly out on the mountain side at an elevation 
 of more than four thousand feet above the level of the 
 sea, is peculiarly picturesque. The towering Cofre de 
 Perote, rising high in air, affords a majestic background 
 to the view, while still higher, and with its snow-capped 
 summit apparently reaching the blue vault of heaven it- 
 self, the traveller catches an occasional view of Orizava 
 as some opening in the trees allow's the eye full scope 
 to the southward. 
 
 On the 8th of May, after passing, as I have already 
 mentioned, several days very pleasantly at Jalapa, Judge 
 Ellis received intelligence from Vera Cruz that the vom- 
 ito had left the Woodbury, and that everything was in 
 readiness for her instant departure. The following day, 
 therefore, saw us once more in the diligence and on our 
 road homeward. While at Jalapa, I had several times 
 noticed the arrival and departure of the literas, and had 
 intended to take a seat, or rather a couch, in one of 
 these easy vehicles ; but as my passage had been paid 
 
400 
 
 THE LITERA. 
 
 in the diligence, and as the latter ran through in less 
 time, I was compelled to give up all thought of being 
 thus transported. The litera is a box some six or seven 
 feet long by about four in width, with a top and cover- 
 ing somewhat resembling that of a common Jersey wag- 
 on. Within is a mattress of sufficient width to accom- 
 modate two passengers, with pillows and other comforts. 
 The box is placed upon two long shafts or poles, which 
 are lifted from the ground and securely fastened to the 
 saddles of a pair of mules, one at either end of the litera. 
 When everything is in readiness, the passenger has 
 nothing to do but climb into his quarters, where he can 
 sit, lie, sleep, read, or smoke, as may best please him. I 
 certainly envied a gentleman whom I saw one morning, 
 half lying upon his back in an easy posture, with a book 
 in his hand and a cigar in his mouth. He seemed the 
 very personification of comfort. 
 
 As we rattled through the principal street of Jalapa, 
 and crossed a little stream, which dashes through the 
 city, the eyes of all, but more particularly those of a 
 group of washing-girls,* were drawn towards us ; for 
 the top and sides of the stage were ornamented with 
 bird-cages, flower-pots, plants of different descriptions, 
 fruits, of which we had laid in or on a goodly store, be- 
 sides many usefuls and ornamentals which had been 
 picked up and collected by the different members of 
 our party. One gentleman in particular, of much taste 
 in such matters, had purchased an assortment of tropi- 
 cal birds and plants, so that when we were in motion 
 the diligence bore close resemblance to a travelling 
 
 * There are one or two establishments in Jalapa devoted entirely to the 
 washing of clothes, at which numerous girls can be seen at all times work- 
 ing under the shelter of a roof, but in a building which has no sides. So 
 white, and with such care do these girls get up linen, that it was told us they 
 received custom even from Vera Cruz. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM JALAPA. 
 
 401 
 
 aviary set in the midst of a floating botanical garden. 
 No wonder, then, that we attracted more than usual at- 
 tention. 
 
 In half an hour we left the outskirts of the city — a 
 city so celebrated for its delightful climate, its delicious 
 fruits, and its pretty women — and began gradually to 
 descend the mountains towards the tierra c.aliente. A + 
 the first place where we changed teams we met the 
 stage from Vera Cruz. Among the passengers was Mr. 
 Dorsey, just arrived from the United States with de- 
 spatches for General Thompson, and on his way to the 
 city of Mexico. Instead of one Yankee we now had 
 two Mexican drivers for the diligence — instead of hor- 
 ses, the animals attached were a set of tolerably well- 
 behaved mules. One of the drivers acted as postillion, 
 riding upon a mule in the lead ; the other sat upon the 
 box, and appeared to have his hands full in so managing 
 the wheel mules as to prevent an upset. The road, in 
 many places, is extremely rough and uneven, and that 
 we should meet with some serious accident appeared 
 inevitable ; but darkness came and we were yet safe, 
 and as it was now impossible to see the dangers which 
 beset our path, we gradually became more reconciled. 
 In this way we passed Encero, Plan del Rio, with other 
 small hamlets the names of which, if they have any, are 
 forgotten. I recollect the crossing of the heavy bridge 
 called, since the revolution, Puente Nacional, and of 
 seeing the large village near it. # At a fonda by the 
 roadside we obtained a very fair supper, and saw a very 
 pretty girl — the circumstance that the chairs, which the 
 
 * Several of the Texan prisoners, who were released by Santa Anna in 
 the June following, died of yellow fever, and were buried near this bridge. 
 Among them were Doctor Whittaker and Lieutenant Seavy. Captain Hol- 
 liday died of the same disease on his passage from Vera Cruz to Galveston. 
 
 L L 2 
 
402 
 
 THE TIERRA CAL1ENTE. 
 
 Mexican landlord had provided for the accommodation 
 of his foreign customers, were so low that to sit in them 
 while eating was extremely tiresome, is another souve- 
 nir I brought from this place. 
 
 We were now directly in the heart of the tierra ca- 
 liente — amid the rank vegetation, the deadly malaria, the 
 suffocating heat of the hot, tropical climates. Innumer- 
 able fireflies or bugs, of large size, and shedding a pale 
 but brilliant light, were flitting about in the bushes by 
 the roadside, and illuminating the dense masses of 
 creeping vines with which the forests of the warm 
 countries abound. At midnight, or a little after, we 
 were travelling through the immense estate of Santa 
 Anna, Manga de Clavo I think it is called. To this 
 place he has always retired after his reverses, and here, 
 it is said, all his plans for his own political advancement 
 have been formed. About three o’clock in the morn- 
 ing we reached the village of Santa Fe, and while the 
 driver was changing his animals we awakened two or 
 three families in the hope of obtaining chocolate or some 
 other refreshment. Nothing could we procure save a 
 bottle of bad claret, and a draught of Catalan brandy 
 which was worse. It is impossible to form an opinion, 
 with anything like certainty, of the number of dogs that 
 enjoyed the pleasure of barking at us during the ten 
 minutes we passed at Santa Fe ; but a rough calcula- 
 tion would set down at least ten to every door, and five 
 to every yard. 
 
 As the sun rose, we were ploughing our way through 
 a dreary region of deep sand, the land on either side of 
 the road overrun with weeds and bushes of rankest 
 growth. Flocks of screaming parrots and macaws 
 were flying lazily over head, while birds of red, green, 
 and richly-variegated plumage were crossing the road 
 
FIRST VIEW OF VERA CRUZ. 
 
 403 
 
 and fluttering among the bushes in every direction. 
 After passing the rude huts of several negro families, 
 who must here gain but a scanty subsistence, we at 
 length emerged from this strange sandy region. A 
 single turn of the road, and we were directly upon the 
 beach of the Gulf of Mexico — we had left the hot and 
 pestilential air of the sultry lands, and were inhaling the 
 pure breeze from the ocean. Thus in one night had we 
 passed entirely through the tierra caliente, and almost 
 without seeing it. To be sure, we had beheld the rude 
 bamboo or cane huts of the inhabitants, hardly one 
 degree removed from the wigwam of the wildest In- 
 dian ;* we had inhaled the indolent breezes which come 
 loaded with the perfume of endless varieties of flowers ; 
 we had seen myriads of bright fireflies in all their mid- 
 night splendour — but we had not seen all that we had 
 hoped to see in a region which, to use an Irish expres- 
 sion, is running over with parrots, bananas, pineapples, 
 monkeys, and other tropical fruits. 
 
 * This may not be a fitting place, but it may be here mentioned that since 
 the earlier part of this work was stereotyped the author has had several con- 
 versations with Mr. Gregg in relation to the Waco Indians, in which that 
 gentleman has expressed his decided conviction that the pretended Wacoes 
 were no other than a band of Cherokees, driven either from the main tribe 
 in the United States for some misdemeanor, or a part of the band defeated 
 in Eastern Texas at the time when the noted chief Bowles was killed. 
 From the great knowledge Mr. G. has of the Southwestern Indians, the au- 
 thor is satisfied that he is correct. He describes the Wacoes, among whom 
 he has travelled, as not being so far advanced in civilization as to warrant the 
 belief that they are now living in the comfortable quarters described in the 
 account of the village seen by the Santa F6 pioneers. The fact that they 
 said they were Wacoes is no evidence, as lying is a prominent trait with all 
 Indians. I might also add, in this note, that the name “ Salezar” has not 
 been rightly given in the earlier part of the narrative. Anxious to do that 
 worthy all justice, I would here state that the true orthography is Damasio 
 Salazar. He shall not say that I have robbed him of any fame by spelling 
 his name wrong. 
 
 Mr. Gregg is shortly to publish a work upon the prairies and the Northern 
 Mexican settlements, which, from his great experience and information, must 
 throw a flood of light upon one of the dark corners of the earth. 
 
404 
 
 THE VOMITO. 
 
 From the point where we first struck the low, sandy 
 beach, although it must have been five miles distant, we 
 could plainly see the churches, houses, and even the 
 walls which environ Vera Cruz. The drive along the 
 water’s edge was slow and tedious, for the wheels of the 
 diligence sank deep, and the sun, although but an hour 
 risen from his cool bed in the gulf, was pouring down a 
 flood of such heat as is only to be felt upon this unprotect- 
 ed sandy shore. While yet a mile intervened between 
 us and the city, we could see innumerable sopilotes, or 
 Mexican buzzards, standing moodily and solemnly upon 
 the walls, housetops, and different towers and steeples, 
 their eyes turned watchfully downward, on the look-out 
 for their accustomed food. They are the scavengers 
 of the city, and are never molested. On reaching the 
 gate, around which a crowd of soldiers were lounging, 
 a short detention sufficed with the officer stationed there 
 to grant us permission to enter. A large conducta, or 
 escort guarding nearly a million of dollars in silver, was 
 entering the city at the same time. A drive of some 
 fifteen minutes, through the wide and well-built streets, 
 brought us to the principal hotel of the place, where we 
 were soon safely housed. 
 
 We were not long in learning that the much-dreaded 
 black vomit was still raging in the city, although it had 
 left the Woodbury. The stranger, as he looks through 
 the comparatively clean and airy thoroughfares of Vera 
 Cruz, and sees the wide waters of the Gulf of Mexico 
 lying directly before him, is at a loss to account for the 
 sickness which yearly carries to the grave its hundreds 
 of victims. The low and damp region, through a part 
 of which we had passed in the morning, is the section 
 whence come the noxious miasmas that generate the 
 vomito, The friends wha had preceded us from Jala- 
 
FINAL DEPARTURE. 
 
 405 
 
 pa were fortunately all well when we reached Vera 
 Cruz, although some of them had suffered from the ef- 
 fects of the climate. 
 
 Our stay in the infected city was short, the next morn- 
 ing seeing us all on board the cutter ; but I cannot take 
 my leave of Vera Cruz without expressing my warmest 
 thanks to Mr. Hargous, the then acting American con- 
 sul, as well as to the countrymen I met at his residence, 
 for the many acts of kindness and attention I received 
 at their hands. The liberality of the Americans of this 
 place, as hundreds of my unfortunate comrades can tes- 
 tify, was ever active in alleviating their wants and sor- 
 rows. 
 
 Previous to the sailing of the Woodbury, a salute was 
 fired by her commander, Captain Nones, in honour of 
 Judge Ellis and of Mr. Hargous, as well as of the then 
 chief of the Mexican navy, Commodore Marin, who 
 was on board at the time. The salute was answered 
 from the barque Ann Louisa, an American packet then 
 in port under command of Captain Clifford. After 
 Commodore Marin had left the Woodbury and reached 
 his own vessel, the Libertad, another salute was fired by 
 him, which was duly returned by the cutter. These 
 ceremonies over, we got under way with a fair breeze, 
 and before nightfall nothing could be seen of the low 
 coast upon which stands the once rich and populous 
 city of Vera Cruz, or the True Cross, or of the frowning 
 Castle of San Juan de Ulua, which commands the har- 
 bour — the towering peak of Orizava, rising far in the 
 distance, was the only point of Mexico visible. 
 
 It was on the 12th of May that the cutter Wood- 
 bury sailed from La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz, as the 
 Spaniards were wont to call this city in the proud days 
 of her prosperity. To the commander of our vessel, 
 
406 
 
 THE AUTHOR’S FAREWELL. 
 
 Captain Nones, as well as to Lieutenants Peters, Wil- 
 son, and Faunce, we were all under great obligations, 
 and I cannot let the opportunity pass without an ex- 
 pression of thanks for their kindness. On the morning 
 of the 18 th of May, exactly one year from the date 
 when I left it so full of expectation of a pleasant four 
 months’ excursion, the low coast which surrounds the 
 mouths of the mighty Mississippi appeared in sight — 
 we had reached the Balize. 
 
 And here, after begging pardon of my reader for 
 sending him ashore at a point so desolate and dreary, I 
 must take my leave. For one year we have journeyed 
 together through scenes of varied nature. If his ran- 
 dom recollections of travel have served to beguile an 
 idle hour, to interest and amuse the reader who has ac- 
 companied him, the knowledge of it will more than 
 compensate the author for his many dark days of pri- 
 vation and suffering upon the prairies, and the months 
 of captivity he shared with his companions in Mexico. 
 
 THE END.