!(>' /7 /'^ /• ^ — — ^ |y TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, CONTAINING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLING IN THAT INTERESTING COUNTRY: OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF AGRICULTURE and POLICY OF THE DIFFERENT STATES ; VERT PARriCULAR DESCRIPTIONS COURTS OF VIENNA AND BERLIN, AND COBLENTZ AND MENTZ. WITH THE BANKS OF THE RHINE, THE PRESENT THEATRE OF WAR. ULUSTRATED BT A CHART, WITH THE KOUTE COLOURED. LONDON: PRINTED FOR C- AXD G. KEARSLEV, NO. 46, FL2Z1-STREET. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Cologne — Account of it — Voyage up the Rhine — Bonn-^ Jadcrnach — Nsuzvicd — Coblcnce — Goar — Cajile oj Rhin- fields — Metitz, - - - page lo CHAP. II. Jioute to Francfort — Francfort — U* Armftqdt — Carlfrhuc — Manheim — Augsburg-^Second Route by Ratijbon-^ Jidunich— ^Voyage on the Danube^ - 68 CHAP III. Vienna Buildings Amujements Theatre Society — Military — Tiour through Hungary — Prefiurg — Ejicr- hazy^ - - - 204 C H A P. IV. Route to Prague — Kolin — Defcription of Prague — Account of Bohemia — Route to Drefden — Account of that City-^ Curiofities — Troops — Comparative State of the Saxons and Bavarians — Indujlry of the Saxons — Town of Wit- temberg Pot%dam Sans Souci Berlin Pruffian Troops — Extent and Revenue of the PruJJian Domi-^ nionsy - - - - 268 CHAP. V. Brandenburg — Magdeburg— ^ Br unfwick — Hanover '-Ham- burg Ofnaburg Munjler^ — Duffeldorp — Gallery of Painting Sy - - - - 332 TOUR THROtTGH G E R M A N r. HE prefent work was firft fuggefted to the Author, by a gentleman of his acquaintance; deliring him to lay down for him, fome direc- tions for travelling through Germany. In complying with requeft he found the labour fwell upon his Hands, and in confulting the various writers who have publiftied their Tours through that part of Europe, and compar- ing them with his own remarks which he made in a journey to Vienna, Berlin, and Hanover in the year 1786, and to Coblence in the year 1792, he determined to colled the whole in- telligence in one point, and offer it to the judgment of the public. The works of which he has availed himfelf are B the 2 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the Views on the Rhine ; Tour of Dr. Burney, Travels of Mrs. Piozzi ; Letters of Dodor Moore ; and of baron Riefbeck ; the author travelled with the latter book in his poflef- fion ; and altered and expunged whatever parts he found either doubtful or fuperfluous. He has only to obferve he has not noticed one place in the dired tour but what he has vifited in perfon ; and the route he has marked down, is the one he himfelf purfued. The only way of travelling with comfort through Germany is in a chaife of your own and with pofl horfes. The (lages or poft waggons, as they are called, are ilow, heavy and difagreeable in every refped: ; the roads are however perfedly free from robbers ; and in a refidence of near two years in Germany, I do not recoiled ever to have heard of a fmgle perfon being robbed or mur- dered. Travelling is cheaper in Germany than in France; for though you pay half a rix dollar, or about one fliilling and nine-pence, per horfi?, for every ftage, the ftagcs are as long again as thofe in France. In Franconia, Sua- bia, and mofl places near the Rhine, it is a florin tOUit tHROXJGH GERMANYi ^ florin, or about 2s. and 46. per horfe } the poftillion will expedt thirty cruitzersj but a German poftilion is varydifFerent from an Englidi one; neither rewards nor menaces can make him move beyond one fettled pace. To your offers andoaths he only replies by fmoaking his pipe fo 'much fader, without increafing the fpeed of his horfes ; and our young gentry who have been whirled in fix hours from London toDover or Harwich, are aftonifliedat the flow pace when they place themfelves under the conduct of a phlegmatic German. In Germany all the independent princes and States are fond of eftablifhing a mint, and almoft every town prefents you with a differ- ent coin. It is generally filver, but with fuch an alloy of copper^ as renders it of little va- lue beyond the limits of their own territories. And it is therefore prudent not to incumber yourfelf with more than requifite* Cologne, Mentz, Munich, Munfter* s. d, 3 Stivers a Plapert - - 02 4 Plaperts, a Copftuck - - o S B 21 Cop- 4 TOUH THROUGH GERMANY. s. d. ^•j Copftucks, a guilder - - 24 2 Guilders, a Dollar - - 48 2 Dollar, a Ducat - - 9 4 Frankfort, Paffau, Aufsburg, Vienna, &c. 4 Cruitzers, a fradion lefs than o 2 6 Cruitzers, a Gould or Guilder 2 4 90 Cruitzers, a Rix Dollar - 3 ^ 2 Goulds, a Dollar - 84 a Dollars a Ducat - 9 4 yj^ Berlin, &c. 2 Grofhens, a Fradion lefs than o i 30 Groflien, the Florin • 12 90 Grofhens, a Rix Dollar • 3 6 iS Florins, a Ducat - - 9 4 In all thefe countries the rix dollar is ima- ginary but is generally made ufe of by the Germans in keeping their accounts. The foreign coins moft current in Germany are French Louis d'ors and crown pieces. P^ormerly as far as Augfbourg the Louis d'ors pafled for eleven florins ; and in the do- minions of the Houfe of Auftria for nine fiorins. They have however funk in value confiderable fince the revolution ; the French emigrants poured in fuch quantities of them, that TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 3 that In the year 1792, they would allow mc at ambach Wels Lintz pnns Strenberg Amftetten Kemmelbach Melck Polten Periling Sigatfkirch Purkerdorf Vienna 15 17 .6 18 16 15 16 13 13 18 I A. 16 10 21 15 13 ^5 loj ^3 16 10 12 9 9 o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Q o p o Q o 10 40 20 45 30 15 30 20 o 45 15 40 55 20 50 10 40 o 40 35 25 25 Vienna Enzendorf Stokeraw Malbetn Holabrunn lezelzdorf B4 8 19 8 10 10 I 15 I 40 I o 1 -o ^ 15 Znagni 8 TOTTR THROUGH GERMANY « Ports Miles. 1 Time. Znam 10 2 40 Freynerfdorf 10 2 Budwitz io I 50 Schlettau 12 2 Stannern 12 2 45 Iglavv 10 I 40 Teutfchbrod - I 1 2 15 ^ 15 Steinfdorf 8 I 5 lenichau 9 I 20 Czallau 10 I 30 Kolin 12 2 30 Planian 9 ^ 25 Bamifchbrod 9 ^ *5 Biegowitz 10 I 40 Prague 11 z Turkilaw 10 2 Welbern 10 b 2 45 Budin li 14 3 20 Lowofitz • 12 3 Aufllg i| 16 4 20 Peterlwald 10 3 30 Ziehft 10 3 39 Drefden • 14 3 15 MeiiTen T "t I 2 16 4 15 Stauchitz 14 15 5 Wermfdorf I I4 14 3 25 Wurtzen ^ 10 2 30 Leipfick I ^2 15 i3 50 Leipfick TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, Ports. Miles. Time. Leipfick Duben 3 22 5 40 Wittemberg 2 24 5 15 Trevenbrizen 2 24 6 Beelitz I 12 2 45 Potzdam I 12 2 50 Berlin 2 20 3 30 Berlin Potzdam 2 20 4 Groffen-creutz li 13 5 30 Brandebourg I 10 3 <^ Zeifar i| 18 5 Q Hokenzies i| 15 3 30 Mefdebarg 2 210 7 Arfchlem 2 2Q 12 Helmftadt I 10 4 Brunfwick zl 25 7 Peine li 15 2 45 Seinde I 12 3 Hanover I 14 3 30 Hanover Hagenberg li 19 4 40 Leefe I 12 3 Diepenaw 2 20 5 Boomte 2 22 5 3« Ofnabruck li 15 3 15 Lengerecke I JO 3 Munfter 2 20 6^5 Dulrrien 2 20 4 5^ Dorften If 15 ^ 6 10 Duysburg 2 21 6 50 Dufleldorf • I| 16 5 ^ From lO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, CHAP. I. Cologne —-Ac count of h — Voyage up the Rhine- Bonn — Andernach — Neiiwicd — Coblence- Goar — Cajile of Rhinfields— Mentz. COLOGNE. A: S you approach it, from the mails of the Ihips in the port, and the numerous church fleeples, has a magnificent appearance, but it all vanifhes when you enter the gates. The walls are nine miles in circumference ; but great part of the houfes (land empty, and many are really tumbling down. A large houfe with a court, flables, and fpacious gar- den, in one of the bed ftreets of the city^ may be had for fifty guilders a year : round the walls, which enclofe the whole domain of the ftate. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. It ftate, there are fome hundred farm houfes, which produce greens, burter, cheefe, and milk, fufficient for the confumption of the city. A great part of the inhabitants are privi- ledged beggars, who form here a regular corporation : they fit upon rows of flools, placed in every church, and take precedence according to their feniority. When the eldell dies his next neighbour takes his place ; many of them have ftools belonging to them in feveral churches, which ihey vifit alternate- ly on the days of the moft brilliant Ipeclacles ; on the few days of the year when there are no feftivals, they roam through the city and be- fiege the travellers with an infolence and rude- nefs not to be conceived, Another and not lefs numerous part of the inhabitants are ecclefiafhics. There are thir- ty-nine nunneries in this place, above twenty convents for men, and more than twelve hof- pitals. The race of abbe's has here multi- plied beyond idea ; they are not, however, like thofe of France clerical beaux, who make parties, with ladies, but rough dirty clowns, JDefmeared all over with tobacco, who play for pence II TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. pence with the peafants in the public ale- houfes; or, after having faid mafs, employ themfelves in the moft unworthy occupations : in fliort, nothing can be more contemptible than the (late of the church at Cologne ; and there is here a canon who makes 2000 guil- ders, or about 250I. a year of his flate ; who confeifes he has neither faid mafs nor feen his church for a twelve-month. The remainder of the inhabitants confifts of fome Patrician families, and of the mer- chants and mechanics, on whom the other two parts live. Upon the whole, Cologne is at leaft a century behind the reft of Germany, Bigotry, ill-manners, clowniflinefs, llothful- nefs, are vifible every where; and the fpeech, drefs, furniture of the houfes, every thing, in ftiort, is fo different from what is feen in the reft of Germany, that you conceive yourfelf in the middle of a colony of ftrangers. The abfurd corporation fyftem prevails here with more force than in any other of the free imperial cities ; by one inftance you will fee how impofTible it is for this town ever to go on improving as the reft of Germany has done. A few years fmce there fettled here a baker from TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I3 from the Palatinate, who, from the circum- ftance of the other bakers baking fuch bread as only an inhabitant of Cologne could eat, foon drove a thriving trade. Jealoufy of his good fortune foon brought his brethren of the company to his houfe, and they pulled down his oven. The affair was carried into a court of juftice. On the day it was to be deter- mined, not only the company of bakers, but the other companies of barbers, taylors, (hoe- makers, &c. affembled round the court-houfe, and fwore they would put an end to the ma- giftrates and magiftracy together, if, by their licentious decree, they allowed any man to bake better bread than the other gentlemen of the corps. The magiftracy knew its men, who on a former occafion had huftled fome of them in the church-yard; and admonifhed by the precedent, they made this fpirited de- cree: — *^ That whereas the audacious baker *' had taken upon him to bake bread, fuch ^' as the reft of the corporation did not bake, ** he fliould build up his oven again- at hia *^ own expence, and, for the future, be cau- *^ lious only to bake fuch bread as the town *' had been wont to fe^d Upon.*' A governing 14 tOlTR THROtJGH CJERMA^Y. A governing burgomafler of Cologne (ther^ are fix of them, two of whom govern every year) wears a Roman toga, half black, half* purple, a large Spanifh hat, Spanilh breeches, waiftcoat, &c. He has alfo his lidtors, who carry the fafccs before him, when he appears in his public character. In the lad war^ one oi the French regiments defired to march through the city ; but it was oppofed, on the pretence that the King of Pruffia was their liege lord, in his capacity of Duke of Cleves, and Count of Mark ; and they told the colonel, who defned to have the gate opened to him, that they were determined to obferve a ftri^l neutrality. It was in vain for him to remonllrate, that he was conducing auxiliary troops to the fervice of the emperor, their fovereign lord. The gates were kept (hut, and nothing lefs than the pleafure of having iheir houfes burned about their ears would content the mob of the place. However, when the cannon was planted, and ready to tire, the council thought better of it, and, to the great mortification of the populace, de^ termined to permit the paiTage. The com- mandant, as foon as he had got in, immedi- ately tOtJR THROUGH GERMANY. 15 ately made the beft of his way to the hall, to remonftrate with the mayor, whom he found, in all the infignia of majefty, on his throne, encompaffed with his lidlors. As thefe, how- ever, did not prevent a few remarks from be- ing made, the magiilrate immediately drew up, and ordering the lidtors to raife the fafces, afked the colonel, '^ Whether he had a pro- ^' per conception of the dignity of a Roman *^ burgomafter? Or whether he knew, that *^ he reprefented the majefty of the Roman " C^efars, and had only opened the door to *^ him out of good will ?*' The officer, who had drawn up his troops, with their bayonets fixed and firelocks primed, in the grand fquare, and was in full poiTeflion of the city, could not abftain from laughing ; but as he already had the door in his hand, the only anfwer he made was, '' You are not quite *^ right in your head !*' The want of all police, a want which in this town conftitutes the elfence of liberty, brings hither from the Upper Rhine, Weft- phalia, the Imperial Netherlands, France, and Holland, vaft numbers of people who choofe to live incognito. There are very good fo- cieties l6 TOITR THROtJGH GERMANY. cieties to be met with, made up of the bettef fort of thcfe adventurers, numerous Pruffian and Imperial officers, the canons belonging to the foundations of the place, fome patrici* aiis, and proieflant merchants. The brifk navigation, particularly of the Dutch, for which this is the ftaple, which they dare not pafs by, the low price of all the neceflaries of life, the neighbourhood of Bonn, the total abfence of the infupportable court airs and infolence of the noblefTe, which you meet with almoil in every other city, the whole- fomenefs of the air, and the chearfulnefs of the inhabitants of the neighbouring eledlorate and dutchy of Berg, renders this a very agree- able abode to thofe who wifh to mix fome- what of the country with the city life, not- withftanding the difagreeable manners of the majority. The fuperftition of this little place furpaffes every thing of the kind you can imagine. They are not contented here with fmgle faints, but muil have whole armies of them. A few days fince, I paid a vifit to the ctiurch of St. Urfula, where Ihe lays, with her iiooo vir- gins. The walls and floor of the church are filled TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 1 7 filled with coffins and bones. Though, as this holy princefs lived in the time of the heptarchy, it be fomewhat difficult to con- ceive how ihe could get together i looo virgins in her father's dominions,- a man who fhould attempt here to fubtrad a fingle one from the number, would run a very great chance of being knocked on the headw Wonderful as this llory is in itfelf, other wonders are brought in confirmation of it. Amongft the reft, there is a monument which has a fmall coffin en- clofed in it, and on which the following words are written : — *^ A natural child was buried •^ in this church with the virgins; but inno- ** cent as he was, they would not fufFer him ** to mix his bones with theirs, but drove him ** out again, and there was a neceffity of bu- ^* rying him above ground." If you are not thoroughly verfed in the hiftory of thefe la- dies, you will be, perhaps, glad to hear that authors do not quite agree in their accounts of them. The Italian legendaries, a jealous race of curs, where foreign miracles are con- cerned, think there is a zero too much in the infcription; others, that the princefs had a maid of honour called Undecimilla, who by C fome l8 TOtJR THROUGH GERMANY. fome blundering monks was changed into eleven thoufand. Almoft every one of the 200 churches of this place has fome male or female faint belonging to it, on which the monks and beggars live. What delighted me mod in this way, were two wooden horfes painted white, which are looking out of a window in an old building of the new fquare* The hiftory of this monu- ment was given me in the following terms : '^ A wealthy young woman was formerly bu- ^' ried from this houfe, with very rich orna- *^ menrs, which the grave-digger having '^ obferved, he came in the night to rob the *^ corpfe ; hardly had the coffin been opened, *' when the woman flood up, and feizing the *' lantern, which the aftoniihed grave-digger *^ dropped in his fright, walked diredly home *^ with it ;' file knocked at the door ; the maid '^ came to the window, and alked who was *^ there. Your miftrefs, anfvvered the other. *^ The girl immediately ran with the meffage *' to her mafter, who not being perhaps *^ pleafed to hear that his wife was come back '^ again, cried out, It is as impoffible for it to *^ be my wife, as for the two horfes to come tOUR THROUGH 6ERMANY. I^ ** out of die ftables, run up into the garrets, ** and look out of the window/ No fooner ** faid than done; the two nags immediately ^^ trotted up flairs, and have remained at the ** window to this day.'* The poor man had no remedy but to take back his wife, who lived feven years with him after that, and wove a great quantity of linen, which, toge- ther with a fet of paintings, exhibiting the whole ftory, is ftill to be feen in the neigh- bouring church. Unfortunately for the ftory, it is told with precifely the fame circumftances in two other parts of Germany ; only the Co- lognefe, who are in every thing diftinguifhed from the reft of the fons of men, have added the vifible and perpetual monument of the two horfes ; but this city is very rich in fables of this kind. Formerly Cologne counted 30,000 men bearing arms, and in the twelfth century it flood a liege againft the whole empire united. Her commerce was fo flouriftiing, that Ihe was at the head of the Hans cities of the third order. Indeed, when we confider the many circumftances favourable to it, fuch as the fituation on one of the moft navigable rivers C 2 . in lO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. in the world, the fliores of which are covered with inhabitants; the flaple, the republican form of government, the admirable roads which conned it with all Germany, and vari- ous other circumflances ; the greateft wonder of all the wonders of this wonderful city, is how it can pofiibly have contrived to fall {o low : at prefent it does not contain more than 25,000 fouls. Their manufa6lures are low. Save a (Ingle one of tobacco, a few infignifi- cant laces, and the pins which are made by the wives and daughters of the poor people, all fplrit of induftry is effedually fupprefled by monkery, and the diflblution of manners infeparable from it. Thofe who pafs for mer- chants are only brokers and commiffioners, for thofe of Francfort, Nurenburg, Augf- burgh, Stralburgh, Switzerland, and other countri'es. Excepting a few fmall bankers, there are hardly above ten or twelve houfes that have any thing like a folid commerce; the objeft of thefe are drugs, from the fale of which a great deal of money is annually brought into Germany ; wine, wrought and imwrougbt iron, from the mines of NaiTau, which are the mofl famous for the produc- 3 tion TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 21 tion of this metal, after thofe of Styria and Carinthia ; wood from the Upper Rhine, the Maine, and the Necker, and a few other Icfs important articles. The greater part too of thefe very few merchants is made up of French and Italians, who far furpafs the natives in iinderftanding, induflry, and frugality, and make up their fortunes on this never-failing capital. The moft folid commerce of all is in the hands of fome dozens of proteflants, who can neither obtain the privileges of citizens, nor yet the liberty to ferve God in their own way; they go to church at Muhlheim, a pretty town in the Palatinate, at lix miles aniu 2 ^^^ diftance. Befides the manufactures they are engaged in here, tliey have concerns in feveral others in the Pruffian territory, and the Pala- tinate, When a ftranger objeds to the people of Cologne, their intolerance towards the moft ufeful part of the inhabitants of their city ; when he compares the ftupidity, barbarity, debauchery, and poverty of the citizens of the place, with the knowledge, induftry, frugality, and riches of the foreigners, they are not at all affefted with the juftice of thefe remarks, C 3 but 22 TOUR THROUGH OERMANY. but turn them to their own advantage in the following manner ; ^^ Thefe heretics/* fay they, *^ are loft fouls ; their hearts are ^^wrapt up in worldly polTeffions, which God '^ vouchfafes them in order to render their *' damnation the greater. God has evidently '* reprobated the rich in his holy writ, and ^' their riches are the fagots which in another ^* world will be piled up to burn them!" With opinions like thefe, which the monks hold forth from every pulpit, it is not to bo wondered at, if the third part of the inhabi- tants of the city are beggars. The numerous (hips which are always to be found in the ports of this city exhibit the moft difgraceful inftance of the manners of the peo- ple. There is hardly a river in Europe which is navigated fo high from its fource as the Rhine is in this place ; the quay, which is above a mile long, is almoft always filled with fhips ; but the goods on board, which accord- ing to the laws of the ftaple, fhould be loaded only on (hips belonging to Cologne or Mentz, almoft all belong to foreign merchants ; of thefe the Dutch ftiips are moft confiderable ; ^bey are diftinguiftied by the kind of magni- ficencQ TOUR THROUCH GERMANY. 23 licence and cleanlinefs peculi'ar to this people: they are at lead one third longer than com- mon merchant fhips of two mails, and arc from 150 to 180 tons burthen : they are drawn by horfes, and can alfo occafionally ufe their fails at the fame time ; nor, in proportion to their freight, do they want above half the number of horfes which are ufed in the navi- gation of the Danube from the Ulm to Vien- na. The proprietors of thefe vefTels com- monly live on board ; and as long as they lie in this port, they treat their friends with all kinds of foreign wines, and a variety of re- frefhments, after the Dutch manner. The fhips of this place, and thofe from Mentz, which take goods in here for the Upper Rhine, are much fmaller than the Duich ones.. Many of thefe, however, are of 120 tons, or as much as a common two-maft fhip. All thefe {liips are built of oak, and according to the principles of fliips which go to Tea, only with this difference, that their length is greater in proportion to their depth or breadth. Nothing difplays th^ conftitution of the German empire in a better light, than the navigation of the Rhine. Every prince, fo • C 4 ^i- 24 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. far as his domain on the banks reaches, con- fiders the Ihips that go by as the velTels of foreigners, and loads them, without diftinc^ tion, with almoft intolerable taxes. They do not in the lead confider, whether the commo- dities which pafs by are the produce of Ger^ many or other countries, and whether the em- pire will gain or lofe by them. On the con- trary, fome of the articles exported from Ger- many, fuch as wine, wood, &Ct have greater taxes laid upon them, in proportion to their intrinfic value, than any foreign ware. Flou- rifhing as the banks of the Rhine now are, they would be flill much richer if they be- longed only to one maftcr, and were governed according to the principles of a found policy; as things now are, the exports of the country are vifibly cramped by the numerous cuflom- houfe duties, fo as to make it almoft incredi- ble how navigation can be fo great as it is. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, as Germanywas approaching near to the anarchy in which it in fa6t ftill continues, the princes of the Rhine, particularly the ecclefiaftical ones, either by force or flattery, compelled the Emperor to give them fo many cuftoms aft TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 25 as to make every city a cuftom-houfe : origin nally all the cuftoms belonged to the Empe- rors, but their want of men, money, and odier fervices, compelled them to part with mofl of them to purchafe friends. Whilft the anarchy lafled, every one took by force, what was not given him by free will; and at the peace, they found means to preferve themfelves in the polTeilion of what they had dole. The Em- peror Albert had the idea of endeavouring to recover them, but he was not fufficiently pow- erful for the undertaking. In the fmall diftrid between Mentz and Coblcntz, which, with the windings of the river, hardly makes twenty-feven miles, you don't pay lefs than nine tolls. Between Hol- land and Coblentz there are at leaft fixteen. Every one of thefe feldom produces lefs than twenty-five thoufand, and commonly thirty- thoufand guilders a year. In this eftimate T do not comprehend a number of articles which pay toll in fpecie, and make a part of the pay of the toll-gatherers. It likewife often happens, that the tempo- rary revenge of the neighbouring princes, pccafions thefe unpatriotic tributes to be car- ried l6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ried much higher than the fettled eftlmate. When the Ele6lor Palatine made it difficult for the city of Mentz to export the corn of his country, the archbifhop endeavoured to re- venge himfelf, by raifing the toll of the grape of the Palatinate, the tobacco, and the other productions. On the other hand the Elector Palatine had reprifals made by his toll on the Lower Rhine, and revenged himfelf on the Mentz wines, which were carried to Holland. Every fpecies of chicanery, which hoftile pow- ers can ufe towards each other, was made ufe of on this occafion. The town of Treves poffeiTes the ftaple privilege on the Mofelle; there have been inftances of this flaple being moved from one place to another, in the fame principality, in order to hurt the ftaples of Mentz aiid Cologne. The ele3Y. 63 fcape. The clear light, the diftant blue of the hills and mountains, (bme beautiful vil- lages, fofc wooJs, and the vine hills a- round all thefe, indicate, that the country behind this black fluice is an open one, and mofl richly ornamented. B I N G E N, The city of Bingen, which, together with the toll on the Rhine, worth about 30,000 guilders, belongs to the chapter of Mentz, is extremely beautiful, and contains about4, 500 inhabitants. A great part of the corn, which is .carried into the Rhinegau the neighbour- ing Palatinate, comes through this place, which, on the other hand, fupplies the Palati- nate with drugs, and various foreign commodi- ties. This traffic alone would make the place very lively ; buit befides this, it has very fruitful vine- yards. ' The hill, at the foot of which it lies and one fide of which is made by the gullet, through which the Nahe runs into the Rhine, forms another deep rock behind this gullet parallel to the Rhine, and the golden Rude- iheimer mountain ; it therefore enjoys the 2 . fame 64 TOUR THROUGH GURMANY, fame fun as this does, which makes th^ BudeQieimer wine that grows on it little in- ferior to the Rudefheimer. The inhabitants of thefe regions are fome of them extremely rich, and fome extremely poor; the happy middle (late is not for coun- tries, thechiefprodud of which is wine; forbe- fides, that the cultivation of the vineyard is in- finitely more troublefome and expenfive than a- griculture, itisfubjecledtorevolutions5whichin an inftant reduce the holder of land to the con- dition of a day-labourer. Itisagreat misfortune for this country, that though reftrained by law, the nobility are, through connivance of the eledor, allowed to purchafe as much land as they pleafe. The peafant generally begins by running in debt for his vineyard ; fo that if it does not turn out well, he is redu- ced to day-labour, and the rich man ex- tends his polTeflions, to the great detriment of the country. There are feveral peafants here, who having incomes of ten or twenty thoufand guilders a year, have laid afide the peafant, and aifumed the wine merchant; but fplendid as their fituation is, it does not com- penfate, in the eyes of the humane man, for the fight ■ of fo many poor people with which TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 6; D which the villages fvvarm. In order to ren- der a country of this kind profperous, the ftate (hould appropriate a fund to the purpofe of maintaining the peafant in bad years, and giving him the afliflance which his neceflities, and his want of ready money, may froxm time to time make convenient. But it is not only here the want of money is felt. Notwithftanding the great reduction, made by the archbifhop of this place of his civil lift, it ftill remains by much too immo- derate and expenfive. He has his minifters, his counfellors of ftate, and eighty or ninety privy counfellors of various denominations. The expence of this eftablilhment is very dif- proportionate to the revenue of the ftate. This is owing to the large number of poor nobility, who can only accept of employ- ments of this kind. Ignorance of the true principles of government are the caufes of this evil. The confequences are, that a great number of perfons, who might be ufe- fully employed, live in idlenefs. Even the military eftabliftiment ot the coun- try appears to me more calculated for the pur- pofe of feeding a hungry nobility, than for F real 66 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. real ufe. At the accefiTion of the prefent elector, though the whole army only confided of 2200 men, there were fix generals. The regular, eftablifliment paid for and fupported by the country is 8000 men ; but though there are only 2000 kept up, the money ex- pended for their fupport, particularly that given to numberlefs ufelefs officers, might be made ufe of more for the benefit of the coun- try. The army of the archbifhop confifts of a German guard of 50 men and 25 horfes, a Swifs guard, a fquadron of hufTars of 130 men, (the moft ufeful troops, as they purge the land of robbers and murderers), a corps of artillery of 104 men, three regiments of infantry of 600 men each, and fome com- panies belonging to the armies of Franconia and the upper Palatinate. Of the fortifications of Mentz, we may fay much the fame as of the army. Were they, indeed, improved and kept up as they ought to be, they would vie with Luxemburg, and be the moil powerful of all the barriers againfl France. It is true, that the nature of the ground does not allow of a regular plan ; but for lingle pans, there is no place of the 4 fame TOtTR THROUGH GERMANY, 67 fame capabilities, where greater advantages have been taken of the ground for the erec- tion of the feveral works. The beauty, as well as (ize of them, is indeed an obje6l of great wonder; but though the circle of the up- per Rhine, and even the empire in general, has laid put great fums on the building thefe fortifications, parts of them are not finiflied and parts of them are ready to fall to pieces. Their extent, indeed, would require a great army to man. But this, as well as the main- taining and keeping them up, is evidently beyond the power of this court, or indeed of the whole circle of the Upper Rhine united. They are, therefore, alfo to be look- ed upon as one of the things, which ferve more for magnificence then real ufe. F 1 68 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. C H A F. II. Route to Francfort — Francfort — D'ArmJiadt — Carljrhue — Manheim — Augfburg — Second route by Ratijhon — Munich — Foxage on the Danube. J. HE country between Mentz and Franc- fort, particularly that in the neighbourhood of Mentz, is one of the richeft that can be \ttn^ and the road is the bed and handfomeft in Germany. Till within three miles of Francfort, it is in a ftraight line, raifed, paved, and guarded on both fides with high ftones, which fecure the foot palTengers from wag- gons and horfes. The only defed. in this road is, that it is too narrow in the middle for two waggons to pafs. All the roads through the domain of the city of Francfort are built in the Utne magnificent %le, fo that it is efti- mated TOUPv THROUGH GERMANY. 69 mated that every three miles has cofl the city above fixty thoufand guilders, or fix thoufand pounds. The chatijfee in the part belonging to Mentz, is not raifed in fo expenfive a ftylc as that of Francfort, but it is broader ; it is planted with trees on both fides all the way, and very well kept. Here and there you meet with noble alleys of walnut and other fruit-trees, the villages at the end of which exhibit beautiful perfpedlives. There is hardly a road in Germany more frequented than this; the place of poft-mafter of Haterlheim, a place midway between the two cities, is the bed of any of the territories of the imperial free ci- ties. In the territory of Menlz, each horfe pays two-pence chaufsh money, at every poll, and each of the three polls brings in fix thou- fand guilders. At lead feventy-two thoufand horfes pafs this road every year, befides a great number of horfes belonging to private per- fons, not taken into the account. There likewife go every day between the two cities two large veflels, which are conftantly filled with men and merchandize. You meet with waggonsonthis road, which, at adiftance, look like large houfes. They are drawn by fix- F 3 tecu . 70 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. teen or eighteen horfes, and, as the waggon- ers afTert, carry loads of one hundred and forty or one hundred and fifty hundred weight. They generally go from Francfort to Strafburg. The beginning of the road from Mentz, winds through the orchards and vineyards of the large village of CalTel, and through a vale watered by a little rivulet, and diverfified with corn-fields and meadows. At the end of fix miles you arrive at Hocheim, celebrated for its delicious wine : this village, from which the Englifh give all kinds of rhenifh wine the name of hock, contains about three hundred families, and is exceedingly neat and pretty. It belongs to the chapter of Mentz, the dean of which enjoys the revenue of it ; in a good year he makes from twelve to fifteen thoufand guilders of his wine ; he and the Auguflines of Mentz have the exclufive enjoyment of the beft Hocheim wine, of which, in good-years a piece, confiding of one hundred meafures, fells for nine hundred or a thoufand guilders from the prefs. For the befl they demand a rix-dollar a bottle, the fame price as the wine of Rudef- heim. It is not fo fiery as the latter, though for TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Jl for pleafantnefs of tafle reckoned fuperior; ic wants the acid wliich diftinguiflies the wine of Rudefheim, and leaves a kind of perfume on the tongue. From Hocheim to Francfort, the inhabi- tants live chiefly on agriculture ; the earth yields uncommon returns, and the corn of this country is imported far and wide on the Rhine. There are alfo large quantities of fruits and greens of all kinds ; excellent afpa* ragus and cabbage are the food of the mofl common people, nor is there a place in Ger- many where the people are fonder or have a greater fupply of vegetables: fliip loads of their cabbages, as well raw as pickled, are carried down the lower Rhine as far as HoU land. The little city of Croneburg, fituated on an eminence about fix miles off the main road, drives a trade with Holland to the amount of eight thoufand guilders a year for apples, cyder, and chefnuts, of which laft it has large groves ; all the villages of the coun- try lie in orchards, and command large fields of corn below. Thqfe numerous orchards make the country look a little poor, though it is as well cultivated as any other part of Ger- F 4 many. 72 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. many. In the ftrip of land which lies betwixt Francfort, Mentz, and the nearefl hills to the north of Mentz, containing a fpace of about twelve miles long, and fix broad, they reckon eight little cities, five large market- towns, and about eighty villages, few of which con- tain lefs than fixty families. Many of thefe would pafs for towns in Ba- varia or the north of Germany, and all befpeak an high flate of opulence in the inhabitants. A peafant is in general extremely happy throughout the whole country ; he is almoft every where a freeman, and opprelTed with no hard taxes. A little more care to provide employments for the hands that could be fpared from agriculture, with a little more attention to education, in order to infpire the people with a difguft to begging, which they are apt to pradlice, would render this trad: the mofb defirable in Germany. About lix fniles from Francfort (lands the little and delightful village of Hockft ; it is fituated on a rifing ground, and has a China manufacture, which is not yet in very brilliant circumftances ; it is divided into Ihares, the poirefTors TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 73 pofleflbrs of which are not men calculated to improve it. An hour brings you from Hockil to Franc- fort ; and though this is the general route to that city, if, however, you (hould diflike to, proceed by water from Cologne ; your road will be by land through Bonn, Andcrnach, and Coblentz, which have been already de- fcribed : at the latter place you leave the Rhine to your right, and pafs through Mon- tabaur in your way to Limburg. The roads through Weterawia are rugged and mountainous. Montabaur is a fmall town which was confidered as of fome ftrength, but at prefent its fortifications would not be capa- ble of an hour's reliftance. Limburg was formerly a free town of Ger- many, it is now fubjed to the Elector of Treves : it ftands on the river Lohn : the beft inn is the lamb: the accommodations at that is, however, very indifferent. From Limburg it is only thirty-fix miles to Francfort ; but the road is fo extremely bad, the horfes you meet with fo very wretch- ed, that even by prefTing forward you can- not y4 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. not perform it in lefs than ten hours. About eleven miles of this lide of Frankfort, ftands the fortrefs of Koenegftein, a place of conli- derable ftrcngth. FRANCFORT. Francfort is a fine large city. Ex- cepting Hamburgh, this is the only im- perial city which keeps up all its prifline fplendour. Whilft Nurenburg, Augfburg, and feveral others about it, are going to de- cay, it continues to thrive and to improve. The outfides of the houfes are very fplendid, and the flyle of the architecture flievvs that the inhabitants know how to lay out their money with tafte. There are about thirty inhabitants in the place who are worth a million of livres ; and yournay name above thirty Calviniftical houfes, who have thirty thouland guilders. The number of very rich Catholics and Luther- ans, is not lefs. There is a high appearance of afflu. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ^5 affluence throughout. The furniture of their houfes, their gardens, equipage, drefs, and female ornaments, every thing, in fhort bc- fpeaks a (late above the ordinary citizen, and which approaches the extreme of magnificence. The houfes are of Brick but have a better appearance than brick houfes in general, ow- ing chiefly to their being covered vv^ith a kind of reddiQi Stucco, which is come into ufe here of late, and it is believed will render the buildings more durable. The fronts of many of the fineft are alfo adorned with bas re- lief of white Stucco, in imitation of mar- ble. Thefe white ornaments on the red ground form too ftrong a Contraft, and do not pleafe any Eye fond of limpiicity. . .The trade of Francfort is extremely hurtful to Germany. According to the accounts given me by a very underftanding iiierchani: of this place, the exports of German com- modities by this channel, hardly amount to a tenth of the imports from France, Holland, Italy, and other countries. The former con- fift of Iron and other rough or worked me- tals, (which are exported moftly into France and 76 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. and tfclland) of wine, linen, and other in- fignificant articles. The latter, on the con- trary, are made up of all kinds of fpices, fe- male ornaments, handkerchiefs, filks, and, in ftiort, all the expenfive articles of luxury furniflied by Italy, France, and Holland. In a word, Francfort is the great canal by which the gold of the empire runs out. The lofs which this place brings on the countries about the upper parts of the Rhine, Danube, and Maine, may be judged of by the va- lue of the louis-d'ors. As all the payments of this place to France and Holland, mud be made in this coin, they are commonly worth twelve creutzers more here than in the other parts of Germany, the country about the Lower Rhine only excepted, which drives the fame kind of unpatriotic trade. The old- er people of this place, as well as in Bavaria, Franconia, and Suabia, remember the times, when, after the operations of Lewis XiV. Louis and crown pieces were the coin the moil- commonly to be met with in the country. But now they are very feldom^ found in the ordi- nary courfe of trade. Very few of them were recoined, as the mint canno: cope with the l-.,oU TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 77 high agio given by the merchants in the courfe of exchange. They are, however, fent in heaps to Holland, and twenty creutzers for every louis-d'or is paid above the market price. There are fome woollen, carpet, and cotton manufadures here, and in the country round. Thefe belong in part to the merchants of the place, but are mod of them only rented by them, and a great part of the woollen manu- fadlures of Hanau, are fold by third hands here. Upon the whole, the entire trade of this place is a mere Jewifli bufmefs, which employs very few hands profitably, and is in a great meafure fupported by the internal con- fumption. The greateft merchants of this place are not afliamed of being brokers ; and a great number of traders, with revenues of from forty to fifty or fixty thoufand guilders, do only commifTion bufinefs ; whereas, if they had more adivity, and the true fpirit of in- duflry, they might make ufe of their money to more advantage in manufadures. The fituation of the place fecures it the per- petual enjoyment of the advantages which have made 78 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, maiie it To rich. It lies in the midfl of the beft parr of Germany, in a country the na- tural wealth of which is favourable to luxury, and which is broken into fo many fmall Hates, that there is no caufe to fear the prohibition of foreign wares. It has not, like Dantzick, which carries on the fame kind of trade, but is now nearly ruined by Prufna and Poland, powerful and enlightened neighbours to cope with, who are attentive to lofe no advantages that may be procured to their own fubjedts. Francfort contains thirty-four thoufand in- habitants, including the ftrangers conftantly refident. Thofe who come for the fair are generally eftimated at fome thoufands. As the way to the principal high roads of Germany lies through this place, all the perfons of confequence, who go to the baths and watering places, commonly take Franc- fort in their way to them. This occalions a concourfe of good company; and the apparatus of the fair, together with the liberty of living which prevails at thefe times form together an interefting fpedacle* The (jcrman nobility come here from many caufes. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 79 caufes, fuch as payments and Tales of many kinds to make, the neighbourhood ot pow- ful courts, and various other reafons. The government, which was formerly very rigid, has now fomewhat relaxed, and en- deavours to make the ftay of fhrangers as agree- able to them as can be. During the fair, there are play-houfes, concerts, a Vaux-hall, fine walks, public dancing booths, and wo- men of the town in abundance. A villasie in this neighbourhood called Bornheim, is fa- mous all over Germany for its brothels. Among the winter amufements of this place, traineau parties may be reckoned. Thefe can take place in the time of frofk only, and when there is a confiderable quantity of fnow upon the ground. I had an opportunity of feeing a very fplendid en- tertainment of this kind lately, which was given by (ome young gentlemen to an equal number of ladies. A traineau is a machine in the (hape of a hor(e, lion, fvvan ; or in that pf a griffin, uni- corn^ or fome other fanciful form, with- out wheals ; but made below like a fledge, lor the conveniency of fading over the fnow Some 8o TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Some are gilded, and otherwife ornamented according to the whim of the proprietor. — A pole (lands up from one fide, to which an enfign or flag is faftened, which waves over the heads of thofe placed on the machine. The lady, wrapped in fur, fits before, and the gentleman ftands behind on a board made for that purpofe. The whole is drawn by two horfes, which are either conduded by a poftillion, or driven by the gentleman. — The horfes are gaudily ornamented, and have bells hanging from the trappings which cover them. This party confided of about thirty train- eaus, each attended by two or three fcr vants on horfeback with flambeaux ; for this amufement was taken when it began to grow dark. — One traineau took the lead ;— the reft followed at a convenient diftance in a line, and drove through two of the principal ftreets and fquares of Frankfort. The horfes go at a briik trot or canter; the motion of the traineau is eafy and agreeable ; the bells, enfigns, and torches-, make a very gay and fhowy appearance, which feemed to oe much reiillied totJR THROUGH GERMANY* 8l irelilhed by the parties immediately concerned, and admired by the fpedlators* There is a cuflom obferved here, which is Worthy to be mentioned on account of its fingu- larity« Two women appear every day at noon on the battlements of the principal fteeple^and play fome very folemn airs with trumpets. This mufic is accompanied by vocal pfalmody, performed by four or five men, who always attend the female trumpeters for that pur- pofe* The people here have a violent tafte for pfalm-finging. There are a confiderable number of men and boys, who have this for their only profeffion. They are engaged by fome families to officiate two or three times a week in the morning, before the mafter and miftrefs of the family get out of bed. When any perfon in tolerable circumftances dies, a band of thefe fweet fingers afTemble in the flreets before the houfe, and chaunt an hour every day to the corpfe, till it is interredo The fame band accompanies the funeral, finging hymns all the way. Funerals are conduded with an uiicom- Q xnoR ^2 ^.tOUR THROUGH GERMANY. mon degcee of folemnity in this town : — A man clothed in a black cloak, and carrying a crucifix, at the end of a long pole, leads the proceflion : — A great number of hired mourn- ers in the fame drefs, and each with a lemon in his hand, march after him : — Then come the fmgers, followed by the corpfe in a hearle ; and laftly, the relations in mourning coaches. The crucifix is carried in this manner at all funerals, whether the deceafed has died a Ro- man Catholic, a Lutheran, or a Calvinifl. As Francfort is one of the few imperial ci- ties who have freed themfelves from the ty- ranny of the excife fyftem, the magiftrates, who have loft confiderably by abolifhing it, endea- vour to make themfelves amends by making ftrangers feel the weight of their privileges. For inftance, the innkeepers will not allow a ftranger to take up his quarters at a private houfe, even though he eats at his inn. The inns are however excellent : thofe of the emperor and the red houfe for cleanlinefs, convcniency, and number of apartments, may vie with the moft magnificent inns in Eng- land. At TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 83 At thefe, as at all other inns in Germany and Switzerland, there is an ordinary, at which the ftrangers may dine and fup ; this is called the table d'hote, from the circumftance of the landlord's fiuing at the bottom of the table and carving the victuals. The fame name for an ordinary is ilill retained in France, though the landlord does not fit at the table, which was the cafe formerly in that country, and ftill is the cuftom in Germany. Travellers of every denomination in this country, under the rank of fovereign princes, make no fcruple of eating occafionally at the ta- ble d'hote, where they lodge ; which cuftom is univerfally followed by ftrangers from every country on the continent of Europe. The ever-increaiing luxury of the Germans, particularly of thofe who inhabit the countries round this place, the habit the GQnna,nnobkJJe are under of coming hither to make a figure, the increafing care of the magiftrate to procure ftrangers every kind of pleafure, the admirable roads which lead hither from every part of Germany, and the excellent inns, are the rea- fons why the fair of Francfort is of late years G 2 more 84 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. more and more frequented. It is now vifited by French and Englifti, who meet here with every article of luxury they can defire. In general the inhabitants of this place arc rather fliff in their carriage. There is, how- ever, feme excellent company to be met with amongft them. Amongft the patricians there are feveral very refpedlable perfons of good nobility who have no Ihare in the magiftracy. Francfort has ever fupplied, and ftill conti- nues to fupply Germany with fome of its firft- rate literati ; and you meet here with well- informed men in every branch of the arts and fciences. The reformed, who, in proportion of their numbers, are without a doubt the richeft part of the inhabitants, have not yet been able, with all their pains, to obtain the liberty of worfhipping God publicly : they attend divine fervice at a place called Bockenheim, in the county of Hanau ; though the catholics, whofe religion differs much more than theirs, from that of the eftablilhed church, have more cha- pels than any other fe<5t, and the Jews have a public and very confiderable fynagogue. The TOUR THROUGH GERM'ANY. 85 The number of Jews fettled here is about fix thoufand. There are fome who are worth a million, and vie with the ChriftianB in every article of expence. Their induftry is not to be conceived. They are pimps, language- mafters, fencing-mafters, dancing-mafters, writing and arithmetic mafters, and their daughters are at the fervice of the uncircum- cifed. Thofe who go into their ftreets, are in danger of being prefTed to death by them. They fall upon ilrangers by dozens, and com- pel them to buy their wares. It is very diffi- cult for a man to difentangle himfelf from them without the help of a good ftick ; and they call to ftrangers from the diftance of three or four hundred paces. The houfes of their well-encompafTed ftreets are filled to the very roofs with inhabitants. In feventeen of them which hardly occupied a fpace of fifty yards, and were burned down fome years fince, there were twelve hundred perfons. On the other hand, there is often only one family in the houfes belonging to the rich. This is the Cgn of an incredible affluence, for houfe-rent is dearer in thefe ftreets, than in moft great cities. G 3 There 86 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. There is a law which forbids the Jews to live any- where out of their ftreets ; but the magiftrate winks at the breaking of it, and only renews it from time to time to extort money from thofe who choofc to live elfewhere. They are obliged to fetch water when a fire happens in any part of the city ; and the ma- giftrates in return permit them to choofe judges out of their own body for deciding difputes among themfelves ; but if either party refufes to fubmit to this, an appeal is open to the magiftrates. The celebrated colleges here are a wonder- ful inftitution. Thefe confifl of alTociations of people of the fame rank, who afTemble on a certain day. There are colleges of nobility, of artifts of all kind, of bookfellers, of doc- tors of law and phyfic ; and, in fhort, of all orders. It is not difficult for a (Iranger to be introduced to thefe^ and the advantage he de- rives by it, of being acquainted in an hour with the mofl reputable people of his own rank, is incredible. The government of this city is of a mixed kind, and very intricate. The conteil be- tween TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 87 tween the ariftocracy and democracy is warmer here than in any other city in Germany. Hardly a year pafles but the burghers begin a new law-fuit with the council, or the council with the burghers. The confequence is, that as law fuits carried before the imperial court are of very long duration, the law-fuits of the city of Francfort, againft itfelf, already amount to fome dozens. I have it from good authori- ty, that the ftate has laid out thirty thoufand rix-dollars, in the lad twenty years, annually, in expences for law-fuits carried on betwixt its own citizens. And as the fpirit of petry- fogging and litigioufnefs is no where higher than it is here, Francfort is likewife engaged in perpetual difputes with the princes, dukes, and marquiffes, round it, much to the advan- tage of the lawyers of Vienna and Wetzlar. The cofts of thefe, during the above-men- tioned period, have amounted to twenty thou- fand rix-dollars annually ; fo that when we come to cad up ftate expences, we may lay this fmgle article at fifty thoufand rix-dollars. TKe annual revenue of the ftate is about fix hundred thoufand guilders, or thirty thoufand G 4 pounds^ M TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, pounds, which are moftly raifed from the csc- cife and cuftoms. The contributions of the burghers, which are a kind of tax, arc very numerous. They are laid on according co the true principles of a commercial common- wealth, They are divided into two portions, viz. the large tax of fifty guilders, and the fmaller, of twenty-five guilders per annum. Every burgher has the liberty of paying to the large or fmall fund, and confequently taxes bimfelf. An income of thirty thouiand guilders fabjeds a man to pay the higher tax; but the magiftracy has no right to take an inventory of his circumftances. This leaves the merchant at liberty to value their eftates oyer or under the line of limitation ; and it is evidently the interefl of every merchant to pafs for a man of an eftate of more than thirty thoufand guilders, and contribute to the large tax. The clafs of inhabitants to which all the reformed, and likewife a large part of the catholics belong, have greater taxes to pay. The latter may, by favour of the magiftracy, arrive at the rights of burgefles, but not take part in the government ; the former are pn« tirely TOVR THROUGH GERMANY. S^ circly excluded from the power of becoming burgefles. There are two routes from Francfort to Augfburg, the firft by Darmftadt to Heidcl- burg, Manheim, Carlhrufe, Studtgard, and Uhn; the fecond by Hanau, Wuitzburg, Hamburg, Nurenburg, and Ratifbon, PARMSTADT, From Francfort it is a poll and a half to 1 Darmftadt, which h a fmall but delightful > place, the air good and the provifions cheap; the beft inn is the poft-houfe. The reigning Prince of Heffe d'Armftadt feldom refides Jiere ; but as he has a moft enthufiaftic paffion for military evolutions, that he may gratify it in all kinds of weather, he has built a room fuffieiently capacious to admit 1500 men to perform their exercife in it all together. This room is accommodated with fixteen ftoves, by which it may be kept to the exadt degrees of temperature which fuits his High^ pefs's ^onftitution. The 90 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. The Darinftadt foldiers are tall, well clothed, and, above all, well powdered; they go through their manoeuvres with that dex- terity which may be expeded of men who are continually employed in the fame adion, un- der the eye of their prince, who is an admira- ble judge, and fevere critic in this part of the military art. There is no regular fortification round this town ; but a very high flone-wall, which is not intended to prevent an enemy from enter- ing, being by no means adequate to fuch a purpofe ; but merely defigned to hinder the garrifon from deferting, to which they are exceedingly inclined ; thefe poor men tak- ing no delight in the warlike amufements which conftitute the fupreme joy of their fove- reign. Centinels are placed at fmall diftances all round the wall, who are obliged to be exceed- ingly alert. One foldier gives the words all is well in German, to his neighbour on the right, who immediately calls the fame to the centinel beyond him, and fo it goes round till the firft foldier receives the words from the left, which TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 91 which he tranfmits to the right as formerly, and fo the call circulates, without any inter- miflion, through the whole night. Every other part of garrifon duty is per- formed with equal exadnefs, and all negleds as feverely puniflied as if an enemy were at the gates. The men are feldom more than two nights out of three in bed. This, with the attention requifite to keep their clothes and accoutre- ments clean, is very hard duty, efpecially at prefent, when the froft is uncommonly keen, and the ground covered with fnow. The three Darmftadt regiments of infantry conlift of about fix thoufand men. This prince is commonly much blamed for his military turn, but his troops are not commodities fox the marker, like thofe of many other German princes. The Englifh dealer. General Faw- cet, offered a much higher price for them than what he gave the Landgrave of Hefle^ but he met with a flat denial, though his money would have been of great fervice for the pay- ment of old debts. I The fZ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, The income of this court is eftimated to amount to one million, one hundred, and fifty thoufand Rhenilh guilders, or about one hun- dred and fifteen thoufand pounds ; a great part, however, of this, is appropriated to the payments of the principal or intereft of old debts. — This is the fituation of all the Ger- man courts. This part of the territory of Darmftadt, which lies betwixt the Rhine, the Maine, the BergftrafTe, and the Odenwald, is the moll coniiderable of them in extent, but by no means the befl ; it is made up chiefly of fandy plains and thick forefls, the beft part of which is the Black Wood. Some diftridls on the BergftrafTe and the Odenwald arc uncommonly fruitful; but in general the pofTefTions of this houfe, which lay in the Wetterau, are much richer than this part of the marquifate of Caf- feneln-Bogen. Notwithflanding this, there is a great degree of opulence amongft the pea- fants; their induftry, and the adivity and wifdom of the government, making up tor what nature has refufed them. The villages in this country have an uncommonly neat and m TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 93 gay afped. The corn afforded by thefe fandy plains, the quantity of wood, and the large quantity of garden fluff, together with the other produce of their agriculture, bring con- fiderable funis to the country. From Darmftadt it is thirty miles through St pleafant country, and on the celebrated road called the Bergftrafs, to Heidelberg; where you will find good accommodation at the Buirs Head, HEIDELBERG. Heidelberg was the ancient capital of the Palatinate until the Eledor removed to Man- heim, about four leagues diflant : it is fituated in a hollow on the banks of the Necker, and is furrounded by charming hiUs perfedly cul- tivated. More cheerful fcenes of fertility cannot be leen than along the fine chain of hills which begin near this town : the fummits of thefe hills are crowned with trees, and their fides and bottoms are clothed with vines. The 4 94 TOUR THROUGH GERMANV* The Eledor's caflle is placed on an emi- nence, which commands the town, and a view of the valley below ; but the caftle itfelf un- fortunately is commanded by another eminence too near it, from which this noble building was connonaded, when the whole Palatinate Ti'as pillaged and burnt, in confequence of the orders of Louis XIV. Mod of the houfes are rebuilt of wood, though they have plenty of (lone in the neigh- bourhood ; even the bridge over the Neckaris of wood. Heidelberg is famous for its tun, which is kept in the caftle, and is faid to contain two hundred and fifty Englilh tuns. The Angu- larity of the tun does not exceed that of the great church, which is divided into two apartments, in one of which the Proteftants, and in the other the Papifts, perform public worfhip. A fingular proof of the moderation and coolnefs of people's minds with regard to a fubjedl that inflamed fo violently in the days of their anceftors. MANHEIM. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 55 M A N H E I M. Manheim has ariren in the courfe of a cen- tury from a village, to be one of the moil beautiful cities in Germany. The ftreets are all as ftraight as arrows, being what they call Tirees au Cordeau, and interfed each other at right angles ; this never fails to pleafe at firft, but becomes fconer tirefome than a town built with lefs regularity. When a man has walked through the town for half a forenoon, his eyes fearch in vain for variety : the fame objedls feem to move along with him, as if he had been all the while a fhip-board. They calculate the number of inhabitants at 24000, including the garrifon, which con- fifts of 5000 men. This town has three noble gates, adorned with baffo relievos very beau- tifully executed. The fortifications are well-contrived and in good order, and the town acquires great additional flrength from being almoft entirely furrounded by the Neckar and the Rhine, and fituated in a flat, not commanded by any rifing ground. Yet, perhaps, it would be better $4 rOVtL tHftOUGH eERMANt* better that this city were quite open, atid without any fortification* An attempt to de- fend it might prove the deftrudion of ih© citizen's houfes, and the^^ledoral palace. A palace is injudicioufly fituated when built within a fortified town, becaufe a threat from the enemy to bombard it, might induce the garrifon to furrender. The Eledoral palace is a moft magnificent ftrudure, fituated atthe jundion of the Rhine and the Neckar. — The cabinet of natural cu- riofities, and the colledtion of piftures, are much vaunted. The lives and manners of the inhabitants of this city, feem to be as uniform and formal as the ftreets and buildings. No noife, mobs, or buftle ; at mid-day every thing is as calm and quiet as the ftreets of London at mid* night. Since the Eledor has come to the poffeflion of Bavarie, he has chiefly reiided at Munich ; the Manheimefe are very much difcontcnted at it ; the expencc, however, of a double court is preferved. The opera houfe at Manheira is capable of containing five thoufand perfons* ^e mere illumination is lliid to coft forty pounds TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 97 pounds on each reprefentation. The mofl fhining parts of a German court, are ufually its mufic, its hunt, and its military. The court of Manheim, the revenue of which is not above 3,200^000 Rhenifh guilders, lays out 200,000 of them annually on its opera and mufic : the keeping up the Schweflingen gardens, fcarce inferior to thofe of Verfailles, is an annual expence of 40,000 : the caftles of Manheim and Schweffingen cofb 6o,goo guil- ders a year; the hunt cofts 80,000, and the flables 100,000 guilders. This court has eleven regiments, with a general to each, which all together do not make above 5,500 men ; notwithftanding the boafts of the fer- vants of the court, who, at the time of the difputc between their mafter, the counts of Leinengen, and the city of Achin, fpoke of 40,000 men to be fent againft the emperor, who threatened them with an execution, and 15,000 more ready to march againft the cit} of Achin. The Palatinate is called the paradife of Ger- many. You will judge of its fruitfulnefs, when you are told that, exclufive of a great deal of wheat fold in the territories of Mentz H ancl 98 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, and Treves, and exported into Switzerland, it fupplies France every year with 3000 combs of grain. A comb is a meafure of 1 70 pounds. Befides corn, they abound in wine and tobac- co. But what gives the greateft idea of the profperity of the country, is a lift of the taxes ; there is fcarce a fingle article, the air only which the people breathe excepted, which is not to be found amongft ^hem. To raife the cuftoms, the cuftom-houfes have been fo in- creafed, that almoft every place in the high road has fome particular cuftom payable in it, and all the goods which pafs through it are likewife taxable. In many places on the road^ the only mark of the cuftom-houfe is the great flick, which enforces payment. The poor people, who export the commodities of the country, are often compelled to go three miles out of the road to pay the tax. In fhort, the only difference betwixt the pradice of the an- cient German nobility, who, even fo low down as the times of the Emperor Maximilian, ufed to rob the merchant on the road, or compel palTage-money from him ; and the prefent fyftem of taxation in the Palatinate is, that the old nobility did that at the hazard of their heads. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 99 heads, which the governmeni: of the Palatinate does without danger, and without confciouf- nefs of doing wrong. In your road from Manheim to Carlfruhe, at about eight miles from the former, you come to Shwetzingen, a palace of the Eledor Pala- tine, the gardens of which he has improved at an enormous expence. The orangery is larger than that of Verfailles ; and the grounds are laid out in the French ftyle, perhaps mpre fuitable than that of England, to the country, which is fiat and naked. The Eledor has alfo here a theatre, though on a lefs fcale than that of Manheim. From Shwetzingen, by Weghoufel and Greben, it is thirty-three miles to Carlfruhe; which is the general refidence of the Mar- grave of Baden-Durlach, though his capital is Raftadt. CARLSRUHE. The town of Carjfruhe is built on a regular plan. It confifts oi one principal ftreet of above an Englifh mile in length. This flreet is at a confiderable diftance in front of the H 2 palace. 100 TOUR THROUGH GFRMAxVY. palace, and In a parallel diredllon with it. All the other ftreets go off at different angles from the principal one, in fuch a manner as that whichfoever of them you enter, walking from it, the view is terminated by the front of the palace. The length of thefe fmaller ftreets is afcertained, none of them being al- lowed to encroach on the fpacious area, which is kept clear before the palace. The principal ftreet may be extended to any length, and as many additional ftreets as they pleafe may be built from it, all of which, according to this plan, will have the palace for a termination. The houfes of this town are all as uniform as the ftreets, being of an equal fize and height ; fo that one would be led to imagine that none of the inhabitants are in any confi- derable degree richer or poorer than their neighbours. There are indeed a few new houfes, more elegant than the others, belong- ing to fome of the officers of the court, built at one fide of the palace ; but they are not, properly fpeaking, in the town. The Margrave of Baden has an income of about an hundred and twenty thouiand pounds a year; TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 10 1 a year ; but when he fucceeded to it he found the debts very confiderable ; he has, however, cleared them by a fevere and ho- nourable oeconomy ; and the following anec- dote refieds no fmall credit on his humanity and judgment. A traveller who pafTed through, expreiled his furprife at feeing a palace entirely of wood. ^ True, Sir,' faid the prince, ' you may think ^ it ought at lead to have been of brick ; but ^ I could not be more magnificently lodged * without laying expenfive taxes on my fub- * je61:s, and I wanted only a roof to lay my * head under.' This Prince endeavours, by every means he can devife, to introduce induftry and manu- fadures among his people. — There is a confi- derable number of Englilh tradefmen here, who make Birmingham work, and inftruct the inhabitants in that bufinefs. He has alfo engaged many watch-makers from Genev^i to fettle here^ by granting them encouragements and privileges of every kind, and allows no opportunity to flip unimproved, by which he can promote the comfort and happinefs of his people. A prince of fuch a charader is cer- H 3 tainly 102 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. tainly a public blefling, and the people are fortunate who are born under his government: But far more fortunate they who are born under a government which can protect them independent of the virtues, and in fpite of the vices, of their fove'reign. From Carlfruhe to Durlach is thirteen miles ; Durlach is fituated at the foot of a mountain, on the banks of the Phintz. It is a large town, but has an uncommon dull appearance, though the flreets are uniform, and the houfes good. Studtgard is the capital of the duke of Wir- temberg ; but that prince difgufled at fome difpute with the inhabitants refided a long time at Louifburg ; after above a years abfence he however returned to Studtgard. This city contains about twenty thoufand inhabitants, and fmce the duke's return has been continu- ally increafmg. It is well built ; the inha- bitants are a handfome, flout people. The wo- men are tall, and flender, with fair and ruddy complexions. The natural riches, the eafe with which a maintenance is to be procured, either at court, or in the country, caufe them to live exceedingly well. What would pro- vide TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I03 vide for twelve of our people, feems here to be only the portion of fix. The Stutgarder is fo attached to his home, .that if you remove him but thirty miles from it, he is imme- diately feized with the maladie du pais. The greateft part of the dukedom of Wir- temberg, confifls in an entenfive valley, which is bounded on the eaft by a chain of hills cal- led the Alps ; on the weft by the Black For- eft ; on the north by a pare of the mountain of Oden-Wald, and an arm of the Black Foreft; and on the fouth by the joint arms of the Alps, and the Black Foreft-^. On the whole, it inclines to the northward, and is watered in the middle by the Necker. Several fmaller arms run off from the furrounding chains of hills towards the centre, crofs each other in various di- rections, and form little vallies, which are wa- tered by an infinity of rivers* The land is rendered exceedingly fruitful by thefe lefTer hills, which fheker the vallies from the cold v/inds, and colled the heat of the Jun be- tween them. * The fouthern fides of thefe * The Black Forefl is the largeft wood of Germany, be- | ing fixty days Journey in length, and nine in breadth. H 4 high I (1)4 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* mountains and hills are planted with vines very high up, and above there is excellent dyers wood, and brulh wood ; and at the bottom is a grey-coloured light mould, which yields all kinds of corn, but particularly barley, in aftonilhing plenty. Upon the whole, this country very much refembles the middle part of Lorrain ; but the foil is much better, and there are not fo many flones in it. Except- ing fait, which it is obliged to have recourfe to Bavaria for, it abounds in all the necefla- rics of life. What corn is not confumed in tiie country is fent to Switzerland, and the wine goes as far as England. The v/hole extent of the country does not contain more than two hundred German, or two hundred and fixty-fix French fquare miles. In this circuit there are .about five hundred and lixty thoufand Inhabitants; that is, about two thoufand eight hundred to every German fquare mile* Excepting thofe parts of Ger- many which are in the neighbourhood of fome capital cities, and fome difl:ri(5ls of Italy, and the Netherlands, there is certainly no country in Europe fo populous, in proportion to its extent, as this is. It is, however, fo fruit- ful TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. TO^ fill as to be able to fupport as many more in- habitants. The income of the duke amounts to three millions of florins, or about 300,0001. per annum. Many printed calculations make the fum fmalier. But as there are few parts of Germany in which the taxes are not eftimated at five florins per head, and in fome they pay much more, why ihould it not be fo in Wir- tembcrg, which is one of the largefl: territo- ries in Germany, and in which the fubjed is not more fpared ? His troops confifl of kyca thoufand men. After the eledlors, the duke is beyond com- parifon thegreateft prm^^p Germany, though the landgrave of HeflTe CaflTel, who has not above two thirds of the fubjefts or yearly in- come, is of more confequence in the empire, on account of his ccnnedlion with England. FromStudtgard it is fixty-tvvo miles toUlm, and part of the road indifferent. It is however advifeable to pufli forwards, as the accomo- dations at Goeppingen are far from inviting. U L M. I06 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY U L M. Ulm is an imperial city; large, antique and gloomy. It carries on fome trade ; and the cadiedral is a gothic building in high preferva- tion. The bell inns are the golden Griffin, and the Arbre forte. From Ulm you may embark on the Danube for Vienna. The navigation is about fixty miles ; but extremely difagreeable, and even dangerous. The veflels confiding of fcarce more than rafts, haftily put together, and ill confl:ru6led. From Ulm by land you proceed through a flat and fandy country, but with good roads, to Augfburg ; where you will find a good inn at the Lamb or the three Moons. AUGSBURG. Augfburg is one of the moil ancient towns in Germany, and one of the moft remarka- ble of them, as it is there, and at Nurem- 4 ^^^Z> tOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I07 berg, that you meet with the oldefl: marks of German art, and induftry. In the four- teenth and fifteenth centuries, the commerce of this town was the mod extenfive of any part of fouth Germany, and contributed much to the civilization of the country, by the works of art, and variety of necelTaries to the comfort and convenience of life, which it was the means of introducing. Many things originated in this town, which have had a great influence on the happinefs of mankind. Not to mention the many important diets of the empire held here; here, in 952, did a coun- cil confirm the order for the celibacy of priefls; here, in 1530, was the confefTion of faith of the proteftants laid before the emper- or, and other eftates.of Germany ; and here, in 1555, was figned the famous treaty of peace, by v.'hich religious liberty was fecured to Germany. Many of the houfes are old and ugly, and are built vv'ith little attention to the rules of modern tafte ; the houfes in Augiburg muft not be confidered as Roman and Greek tem- ples, but as monuments of the architedure of the times in which they were built. Who- ever I08 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ever confiders them in that light, and com- pares them with the houfes built at other towns of Germany, in the fame century, will fee to what a much greater degree of mag- nificence Augfburg had arrived in thofe early times. He will fee too a great deal of real beauty of proportion, uniformity, correfpon- dence of parts, &c. &c. The looks of the inhabitants of Augf- burg have fomething very flriking in them. -They are a compound of the Suabian and Bavarian features. The proteflants are moft like the Suabians, and the catholics the Ba- varians. It is an obfervation, which has been frequently made, and undoubtedly a true one, that you may diftinguilh a protcftant of Augfjurg, from a catholic, by his looks and manner. Any perfon who goes into their refpedive churches, will fee fliriking charac- teriftical differences in the face. As the ca- tholics are more catholic at Augfburg than in any other part of the world, and as the fol- lowers of the feveral religions feldom inter- marry, this difference may the more eafily be accounted for. The befl accounts of the lucceHive varia- I tions TOtJR THROUGH GERMANY. 1O9 tlons of the government of Augfburg, which is ariftocratical, is to be met with in Z). Lange- 7nanters Hijiorie des Regiments der Stadt Aiig/hurg, FoL and in P. von Stelten des all em Gejchichie von Augfbnrgi 2 vol. in ^/o, which carry it down to the year 1649. The police of the place is very good, and though the town has no territory, it has no debts. The water works of Augfourg deferve notice much more than thofe of Marly, the m.echanifm of them is much more fimple, and the advantage of them much more confpicuous. Augfburg is, however, no longer what it w^as. It no longer has a Fugger, and a Wel- fer in it, to lend the emperor millions. In this large and handfome town, formerly one of the greateft trading towns in Germany, there are no merchants at prefent to be four^d, who have capitals of more than 2o,oool. The others, moft of whom mud have their coaches, go creeping on with capitals of 3, or 4, cool, and do the bufmefs of brokers, and commiffioners. Some houfes, however, carry on a little banking trade, and the Vv'ay through Tyrol, and Graubundten, occafions fome no TOUR THROrCH GERMANY. fome little exchange between this place and Germany. After thefe brokers and doers of bufinefs by commiliioner, the engravers, ftatiiaries, and painters, are the moft reputable of the labouring part of the city. Their produc- tions, like the toys of Nuremberg, go every where. There are always fome people of ge- nius amongft them ; but the fmall demand for their art affords them fo little encourage- ment, that to prevent flarving, they are moflly confined to the fmall religious works, which are done elfewhere by Capuchin monks. They furnifh all Germany with little pidures for prayer books, and to hang in the citi- zens houfes. There is an academy of arts inftituted here, under the prote<5lion of the magiftrates. It feems, however, like its patrons, to have no other aim than to produce good mecha- nics, and prefervethemanufadures ofthe city. The fenate, for fome time pait, has been de- liberating on fimilar projeds, for the encou- ragement of induftry. But their intentions arc thwarted, by the very governors of the town thcmfelves, . The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. m The grounds of this inconfiftent oppofition arife in great meafure from the form of go- vernment. The patricians, who, with a very fmall addition of the mercantile part, govern the town ariftocratically, cannot bear to fee the plebeian enabled by his induflry to carry his head above them. Though they extol induftry in the fenate, they hate and perfe- cute it in the workfliop. One Shulin, who has made his fortune by a great cotton-work, is a lamentable example of this duplicity. As the millions his induftry has brought, allow him to live more fplendidly than the patricians with empty titles, he is become the objed of their moft furious perfecution. Augfburg which is nine miles and a half in circumference, contains hardly 30,000 peo- ple, and their coUedive capital ftarcely ex- ceeds 1,500,0001. fo that their yearly decreafe becomes more and more apparent. If fome fortunate circumftances do not arife, another century will fee them reduced to abfolute beg- gary. In the fifteenth century, tlje imperial cities of Saabia aded a very different part. They were then united in leagues, not only with each 112 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. each Other, but with the cities of Franconia, and the Rhine. Even the emperor had fome- times caufc to be alarmed at their encreahng power, which, indeed, made Charles V. dif- iinite them. From the time of the affociation of the Hanfe towns, the gold had flowed from all the country into the cities. Thefe were the exclufive feats of induftry, and their wealth drew into their dcpendance the neigh- bouring princes, who at that time, lived by robberies. II the fpirit of trade, which then prevailed, had fuffered them to place more value on the pofleflion of landed .property, they would to this day have preferved fome- what of their former fplendour, as with their power the}» might have made many conquefts and with their wealth many purchafes. All hopes are now vanifhed of their ever be- coming again confpicuous. As foon as the princes difcovered the value of induftry, and gave it free encouragement in their doininions it fled into their protection, and abandoned the dark walls of cities in which a fyftem of monopolies, little policy, and narrow-minded envy of the fuccefsful, laid it under fo many reftraints. In confequence, the towns are fo reduced TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. tl^ reduced, as to be obliged to fell the little landed property they have, to difcharge their debts. The more modern part of this town is truly beautiful ; and the fenate houfe is one of the handfomeft buildings to be feen in this part of the world. One would believe, that in pro- portion as the internal refources had dimi- niQied, the magiftracy had become more at- tentive to external decoration. But it is as with the falfe bloom on a courtezan's cheek, it may beguile the paffing flranger, but who- ever fees her at her toilet will foon be unde- ceived. A (hort time fince, on the publica- tion of an order for the water fpouts, which ufed to fpout the water upon the ftreets, and injure the pavement, to be in future carried through their houfes, a company of merchants entered a proteft, beginning with thefe words * The Romans were not arrived at the pinna- ^ cle of their greatnefs when the Appian way * was made.' It is hard to know whether the writer of the remonftrance was in jeft ; but, as the common proverb fays, that * every com- parifon is lame,' this is (o indeed. - ^ I The 114 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. The city has its drinking water from the river Lech, whicK runs at fome diftance from it. The aqueducts which convey the water, are much to be admired. As the court of Bavaria has it in its power to cut off this indifpenfible neceffary, by threatening the tov/n with doing fo, it often lays it under contribution. But as it has, befides this, other means of keeping the high council in a flate of dependance, to fecure itfelf from this oppreflion, the city feeks the Emperor's protedion, upon whom it makes itfelf as de- pendant on the other fide, fo as to be indeed only a ball, which both courts play with. The Emperor's minifter to the circle of Sua- bia, generally refides here, and by fo doing fecures to his court a perpetual influence. There are always Auftrian and Prufiian re- cruiting parties quartered here, and the par- tiality of the government to the former is very remarkable. In the war of 1756, the citi- zens were divided into equal parties for the two courts. The catholics confidered the Emperor as their god ; and the proteftants did' the iame by the king of PruiTia. The flame of TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Ilj of religion had almoft kindled a bloody civil war amongft them. The bifliop takes his name from this town; but refides at Dillengen. He has ah income of about 20, cool, per annum. As a proof of the catholicifm of this place, the Pope^ throughout his whole progrefs, met no where with fuch honours as he did here. This he owed to his friends the jefuits, who have flill great influence. S U A B I A. Suabia, of which Augfburg is the capital, of all the circles of the empire is mofl di- vided; it contains four eccleiialtic, and thirteen lay principalities, nineteen independant prela- cies and abbeys, twenty-fix earldoms and lordfhips, and thirty-one free cities. The prime dirediors of the circle, as they are term- ed, are the bifliop of Conflance, and the duke of Wirtemberg, v>'hich laft has the fole diredion of all that relates to war. The mixture of the various forms of govern- ment, and religious feds ; the opprefTion exer- cifed by the great on the leiTerj the game I 2 con- Il6 TOL^R THROUGH GERMANY. conftantly played by the Emperor, who pof- lefies many pieces of detached country in Suabia, which depend not on the circle, and can, in confequence of his privileges as archduke of Auftria, extend his pofleflions in it by various ways, are circuniftances which give the cultivation of the country, and the charadter of the inhabitants, a moft extraor- dinary cafl. In feveral of the poll towns where you ftop, you fee the higheil degree of cultivation in the midfl of the moft favage wildnefs, a great degree of knowledge and poliQi of manners, mixed with the grolTeft ignorance and fuperftition ; traces of liberty, under the deepeft oppreflion; national pride, K)getherwith the contempt and negied of the native country ; in fliort, all the focial quali- ties in ftriking contrafh, and oppofition to each other. Thofe parts of Suabia, which belong to the greater potentates, fuch as Wirtemberg, Auftria and Baden, are certainly the moft im- proved. The whole of Suabia may compre- hend about nine hundred German fquare miles and two millions, of people. More than half gf thefe are fvibjedls of the three above men- tioned TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Iiy tioned haiifes, though they do not own, by a great deal, one half the land. If the fmall German lords would reftrain themfelves within due bounds, if they would not appear greater than they really are, if they were more afFedionate to their fubjccts, the very fmallnefs of thefe ftates might conftitute their happinefs. For although a fmall coun- try mud neceffarily part with fome money to procure what it wants from abroad, yet if the governor does not require many luxuries, a prudent oeconomy and management will keep this within due bounds. Befides, as mod of the fovereigns in this part of the world are ca- tholics, and the rich foundations in the neigh- bourhood lay open to their younger fons^ they are not incumbered with the care of making other provifion for them. Many of themfelves too belong to the church, and their prefer- ments there might prevent their laying any burthens on their fubje6ls. Thefe advantages, with their exemption from fupporting any military eftabliQiments, the eafe with which a fmall country may be governed, the diftance from the political diftradions of the greater ftates, the fecurity that the other powers of , I 3 Germany Il8 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Germany cannot pliy the great conqueror over them, and manv other circumftances, might be improved into bleffings on thefe fmall focieties. Of inhabitants, Bavaria contains one mil- lion, one hundred and eighty thoiifand ; the Palatinate on the Rhine 220,000, and the dukedoms of Juliers and Berg about 260,000; the number, therefore, of the fubjeds of this court, amounts to about 1,720,000. In fome flate papers they are reckoned at little more than 1,400,000, but certainly the fubjecls who live in Weftphalia are not included in this calculation. There is likevvife a great difference about the income of the court. The very induftri- ous, and in general the very accurate Mr. Bufching, tells us, in the laft edition of his excellent work, that he is informed from good authority, that the income of Bavaria amounts to eight millions of Rhenifli florins, or 800, cool, and this agrees with the calculation commonly made here ; but the very few peo- ple here, acquainted with the flace of the court, think they are induced, by a ridiculous vanity, to make more of things than they are. Some, TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. II9 Some, who ought to have been in the fecret, affert that the court has from twelve to fix- teen hundred thoufand pounds yearly income. By inquiring, particularly at the proper offices into the ftate of finances, it has been made out, with tolerable certainty, that the aggregate income from the taxes, cuftoms^ excife, fo- reds, mines, &c. hardly amounted to live hundred thoufand pounds. In this eftimate, one of the moft confiderable articles, the trade with the Saltzburg and Riechenhaller fait, is not included. This is reckoned by fome at two millions, but it is mofl? highly probable that it does not produce more than one. We may therefore moft fafely ftate the income of Bavaria at fix millions of florins, or 600, cool. The revenue of the Palatinate on the Rhine amounts to about 1,700,000 guilders, or 170,000!. and that of the countries in the cir- cle of Weftphalia to about 1,500,000, or 150,0001. fo that on the whole, this court may have a revenue of nine millions of florins, or about 900,0001. You perceive by this ftate- ment, that the income from the lands on the Rhine amounts to fomething more than the half of the revenues of Bavaria, notwithftand • I 4 i-g; I20 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ing that it does not contain one half as many inhabitants as Bavaria; but this difference, as well as that which the profitable Bavarian fait occafions, is overbalanced by the better employment of the abovementioned lands, by more diligent hufbandry, by greater taxes, by more lively trade, and by more profitable du- ties of all kinds. If Bavaria were as well peopled and culti- vated in proportion to its extent as the coun- tries on the Rhine conneded with it are, it would yield three or four millions of florins more. It contains a fpace of feven hundred and twenty-nine fquare miles. The Palati- nate and the dukedoms of Julich and Berg, all together, hardly contain two hundred and forty fquare miles; but this fpace, which is not a third as large as Bavaria, has half as many inhabitants in it, and yields more than half as much revenue. This difference arifes, in a great meafure, from the great attention paid to monks in this country ; an attention which mufl neceffarily prevent any increafe of population, any excefs of knowledge, any induftry, or a more improv- ed cultivation to the country. There are two hundred TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 121 hundred cloifters in this country, and at lead five thoufand monks. Many of thefe cloiflers have incomes of three or four thoufand pounds a year ; that of Niederakeich has not lefs than io,oool. per annum. Without exaggerating, one may rate the revenue of the cloifhers, and other rehgious foundations of this country, at about two millions of florins, or 2005000!. which is a third part of the whole income oi the country. Should you be defirous of feeing Ratifbon, you may proceed by Hanau and Nurenburg, through that city, to Munich. H A N A U. Hanau is the capital of a county of the fame name : jt is eight miles from Frankfort, and is one of the moft regular towns in Germany : it is fituated in a Champaign country, on the river Renitz, jufl before it falls into the Maine, and thereby divided into the old and new towns, both encompaffed with good walls and other fortifications. The houfes are all built on a level : almoft all the flreets termi- nate 122 TOITR THI^OUGH GERMANY. nate in a grand fquare, which is the centre of the town, and where the public markets are kept. At each of the four corners of it is a well, walled about with red marble, and adorned with fomc foliage or other ornaments of iron, on the top of which there is a large lamp. The new town was almoft totally re- built, .and rendered much more populous in 1698 by the French refugees. There is a canal dug from the new town to the Maine, for the conveniency of commerce. The Lu- therans have their churches in the old town, but the Calvinifts are the mofl: numerous. The Jews are alfo tolerated here; but the Roman catholics are not allowed a place of public worfliip in the town. The Walloons and the French refugees have eftablifhed a great num- ber of manufactures in woollen fluffs, Inufi', See. Hanau had formerly Counts of its own, but the lad of them dying in 1736 without iffue, it devolved to the Landgrave of HcHe Cafiel. The caflle in which the Counts ufed to refide, is in the old town, upon the bank of the Maine ; it has a high tower, is well for- tified with other works, an.l makes a hand- f)me appearance, /boat a mile from the town TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 1 23 town ftands a pretty country houfe, called Philip's repofe, built by the late Count's bro- ther; the apartments of which are nobly fur- nilhed, and the gardens laid out in a grand tafte. In the neighbourhood of Hanau there are great plantations of tobacco. Four miles beyond Hanau is Dettingen, famous for the vidory gained here by the Allies, on the i6th of June, 1743 ; commanded by George II. againft the French under the Duke of Noailles. ASCHAFFENBURG. Afchaffenburg is a fmall town belonging to the Elector of Mentz, fituated on the river Maine : it is but indifferently built. The Eledor has, however, here a palace, that may be called handfome ; and there is a ftrong ftone bridge over the river Maine. The country about this city is uncommonly fruit- ful; it is famous fpr producing a great num- ber of apple trees, with the fruit of which they make a cyder which only a connoilTeur can iliflinguilh from Rhenifli wine : it has a good deal 124 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. deal of fpirit, but is fold for twelve creutzers a bottle, a price for which you may have very good wine. At Afchaffenburg there are always thirty huflars, who travel through the SpelTart to prevent robberies ; and fuch is their diligence, that though you have twenty-feven miles to pafs through one of the thickeft forefts you can conceive, and in the fpace you meet with but a fingle village, for twenty years there has not been an inftance of any perfon being at- tacked. About Lonfeld the SpefTart ends, and a good road conduds you to Wurtzburg, the capital of the Bifhopric of the fame name. WURTZBURG. It (lands in a pleafant valley on the river Maine, that divides it unto two parts, which are again joined by a ftone bridge of eight arches, adorned with ftatues. The town is well fortified, and has a good caftle. The ftreets are narrow, but the houfes are in gene- ral good. The cathedral is a vaft building of Gothic architedlure, but immenfely rich. All TOUR THROUGH GF.RMANY. 125 All the ornaments of the altar, the pulpit, and the two great candleflicks before the altar are of folid lilver, as are alfo feveral ftatues. Clofe by the cathedral there is a magnificent chapel, lately built of the mod curious mar- ble, and decorated with brafs, gilding, and every other coflly ornament. Befides the ca- thedral, there are feveral other fine churches, among which that of the Jefuits is the moft magnificent. The collegiate church of St. John's is a fmall but handfome ftrudure, built of free-ftone, with a neat front, high dome, and richly ornamented with carving and gild- ing. The church of St. Auguftine is noted for the ftatues of feveral faints. The great hofpital is a ftately building, where four hun- dred perfons of both fexes are maintained. They have fifteen or fixteen other hofpitals in Wurtzburg, and an old abbey of Scotch Be- nedidines. The univerfity in this city was formerly pretty much frequented. The new epifcopal palace (lands in the town near the gate that leads to Nurenburg, and is one of the fineft in Europe. It was begun by the late John Philip Francis, Count de Schon- born, Bilhop of Wurtzburg. This magnifi- cent 126 TOUR THRO.UGH GERMANY, cent ftru6lure is 360 feet in front', and forms five great coiirrs. The oiiifide is of free-flone, but the principal ftair-cafe, the chapel, the guard -chamber, the great rooms of the palace, and all the chimneys and doors, are lined with marble. Tlie gardens are anfwerable to the magnificence of the building, being adorned with fountains, grottos, orangery, &c. The caftle, fituated upon an eminence on the other fide of the river, is a flrong place, and entirely commands the town. The form of it is quite irregular, confiding of feveral buildings erefted by different bifhops. The firft part is covered by two baftions fjjiced with free-ftone, and a deep broad moat. It is adorned with eight ftatues of ftone, three without in Roman ar- mour; and five within, the middle one of which reprefents Hercules leaning on his club. The apartments are fpacious and noble, and the furniture is fliid to equal that of any palace in Germany. The arfenal is a building of brick ai^.d free-ftone ; the lower rooms are arched over, and contain about 160 brafs guns. Underneath there are large cellars ftored with a year's provifion for 6000 men. in the up- per rooms are arms for 40,000 men, horfe and foot. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I27 foot* In this citadel the blfbop has built a manage or riding-houfe, a fencing-fchool, and another for dancing; for all which he keeps mafters here on account of his pages, and other young gentlemen at his court. There is alfo an elegant chapel in the caftle, which has a handfome dome, with four beautiful altars in ftucco, two refembling porphry, and two jafper. The lafh thing they carry you to fee in the caftle is the wdne-vauks, which having no more day-light than what peeps in at the door, are illuminated by a great many candles on gilded fconces. Thefe vaults are all full of cafks, moft of which are of a mon- ftrous fize, and they are all adorned with carving and full of wine, of which they will be fure to convince a ftranger. From this caftle there is a delightful profpecl not only of the town, bvit of all the fine country round it, particularly the little" hills about Stein, i^o fmious for wine, and the vineyards of Leyft on the fouth fide of it, the grapes of which have a good deal of the mufcadel tafte. The bifhop of Wurtzburg is one of the moft powerful ecclefiaftical princes in Ger- many; he takes the title of Dux prancanise Dieqtalis, I2S TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. DIentalis, and lives in very great fplendour. His dominion inclofes feventy bailiwicks, and is one of the moil fruitful and mod delight- ful countries in the empire. He is abfolute over his fubje6ls, and lives in all the ftate of a fovereign prince. In time of peace he keeps on foot 2000 men, and in time of war is able to raife 7000. BAMBERG. 'Bamberg is faid to have derived its name from Baba, fifler to the emperor Henry I. The fituation is vaftly agreeable, on the river Regnitz, in the midft of a pleafant fruitful country. Bamberg was formerly an imperial city, but is now fubjed to its bifliop. The town is large and populous ; and being fitu- ated in the very center of Germany, conti- guous to feven or eight different flates, it is a very great thoroughfare. The ftreets are wide, and the buildings neat and regular. There are no fortifications to the town, which is quite open and has the appearance of a large village. The cathedral is one of* the mod magnificent in the empire. The chapter is compofed TOtJR THROUGH GERMANY, 129 compofed of twenty capitular canons, and fif- teen domiciled. This bifliopric was founded by the emperor Henry II. in 1106. The emperor Henry II. and his emprefs lie buried in the cathedral, her ftatue is on the right hand, becaufe (he is faid to have died a vir* gin. The treafury of this church is full of very great and coftly curiofities, particularly the imperial crown of Henry II. confiding of fix plates of gold adorned with precious ftones, and another of his emprefs, compof- ed of two circles of gold richly fet alfo with pearls and jewels. But one of the rareft cu- riofities in this treafury is a folio manufcript of the four gofpels in Latin, upon fine vel- lum, in a neat Roman charader, with fome Gothic letters interfperfed, and moil beautiful miniatures; the binding is adorned with pearls and precious ftones. There is another Latin manufcript in folio, of the four gofpels, with a commentary by St. Jerome, and fine mini- atures ; and a third in Gothic letters, with a binding of prodigious value. All thefe pre- cious rarities the laid Henry II. is faid to have given to this church, with a great many relics w,hich he brought from Rome. K There i^O TOUR THROUGH GEKMANY-^ There are feveral good convents of men; and women in this city, among the reft a very handfomc college of Jefaits. The Benedidine abbey dedicated to St. Michael, ftands on an eminence of the fame name. One of its abbots, who was a great bdtanift, caufed the church to be painted within and without, with all Ibrts of known plants and fimples. Here are two palaces, the old and new. The for- mer ftands in an ifland formed by the river Pegnitz, and has a tolerable garden with a large orangery. The new palace is a vaft pile of free ftone with a very regular front, be- tween two large wings, containing grand com- modious apartments painted with hiftoric pieces, and fituated on an eminence from whence you have an exteniive profpecV. Ic was built by Lotharius Francis de Schonborn, who was elector of Mentz and bifhop of Bam- berg. They haVe a univerficy here, which was founded in 1585. The bifliop is abfo- lute fovereign of ihis town and diftri6l, and has feveral more caftles and royalties in Ca- rinthia and other parts of Germany. He ij fuffragan 10 no other prelate, but immedi- I ately TOtrR THROITGH GERMANY, 131 ately under the jurifdidion of the fee of Rome: he is alfo joint diredor of the circle of Fran- conia with the marquifs of Culembach. The revenue of this bifhoprick amounts to above 50,000!. befides the produce of his fixtcen large bailiwicks in Carinthia. There is a good number of the nobility generally fettled in this city. The Benefices in the cathedrals of Wurtz- berg and Bamberg are looked upon as the beft in Germany. In good years - each is worth three thoufand five hundred guilders. But you feldom meet with a prieft who has no more than one ; feveral of them havfe four or five Prebends in as many Cathedrals, and receive from eight to 12000 guilders a yearo The Prelates of thofe foundations receive from 20, to 30,000 florins a year. The whole trouble of a German canon confifts in his be- ing obliged to reiidence in his cathedral for a month in the year. No other qualification is required of him but to be able to read Latin, and prove himfelf defcended from a good family on the mother's fide. Every Canon of Wurtzberg at his firft en- try into the chapter is reported to receive a K 2 ftroke 132 TOUR THROUGH GERMANT. ftroke with a fwitch from each of his colleagues. This extraordinary inauguration is contrived with a view of preventing any Prince who of courfe cannot fubmit to fuch a ceremony from defiring to be of the chapter. The neigbourhood of Bamberg is very agreeable; there are few vineyards about the town, but the foil is fruitful in corn. Within nine miles at a place called Pom- mersfelden, there is a very beautiful pa- lace belonging to the houfe of Schonborn, which palace may pafs for one of the beft in Germany. Ir was built by the above men- tioned Lotharius Francis ele<5lor of Mentz and bifhop of Bamberg. The way to it from the city is between a large forefl of fir, aboun- ding with deer, and a lake. The houfe is of free flone, built in the form of a fquare, with four large towers, one at each corner. All round the great fquare court there runs a por- tico, the walls of which are garnidied at equal diftances, with 50 or 60 heads of deer of an extraordinary fize. There is a magnificent ftaircafe, perhaps one of the finefl contrived in Europe. The entry fupported by feveral col- TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I33 colonades, leads into a faloon, which ferves as paflage to the garden ; it is in form of a grotto, adorned with fountains, columns, and ftatues of marble. The cieling is painted, as well as the fky-light of the flair-cafe, and the arches of the principal apartments, by Italian mafters ; and the whole is laid out with great choice, judgment, and fplendor. The ftables anfwer exadly to the palace which they front. They are built in form of a half moon, with a pavilion, in the middle of which is an oval fa- loon, from both fides of which you fee all the horfes. The faloon in the middle of the two ftables is painted in frefco, and looks one way to the court, and the other to the riding-houfe. The gardens of Pommersfelden are very an- fwerable to the magnificence of the building; in a word, every thing belonging to this fine houfe is worthy of it. F O R C H E I M. Leaving Bamberg you proceed to Forcheim, the Lacoritum of the ancients. It is fituated on the conflux of the Regnitz and Wifet, K 3 and 134 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. and is tolerably well built, but of a fmall cir- cumference. There is a ftrong caftle here, and the town itfelf is regularly fortified. It is fubjed to the Bifhop of Bamberg. E R L A N G. Eight miles from Forcheim ftands Erlang, commonly called Chriftian Erlang, a town of Franconia, belonging to the Margrave of Bareith. This place was built by the French refugees, who fettled in this country after the revocation of the edid of Nantes. Of all the colonies they eftablifhed in Germany, this has fucceeded the bed, which is owing to the great encouragement given them by the Margrave. The town is in a very plcafant (ituation, and elegantly built, having feveral handfome ftreets and beautiful houfes. The French have eredled a great many manufactures here of cloth; {lockings, and hats, which have met with furprifing fuccefs, and contribute to en* rich the country. The MaFgrave has built a very bea\uiful palace, which he has adorned with TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 135 wkh charming gardens, and chufes it very often for his refidence. From hence it is but a ride of t\yelve miles to Nurenburg, through a very fandy country, but well cultivated and interfperfed with villages. NURENBURG. Nurenburg is fituated near the conflux of the rivers Regnitz and Pegnitz. It is a place of very great antiquity, and generally believed to have its name from the Norici, who built a fort on the hill where the caftle of Nuren- burg now ftands, to defend themfelves from the Huns, who had driven them out of Auf- tria their former country. The city is fituated on a plain, and about feven miles in circum- ference ; it is encompafled with a wall and towers, after the old way of fortifying. The ftreets are large and well paved, the houfes generally built of hewn ilonc, five or fix ftories high. The outward gate of the houfe, though never fo large, by means of an iron fpring K 4 upon 136 TOUR I H ROUGH GERMANY. upon the firfl floor, at the lead touch of it, immediately flies open ; an invention whith faves the trouble of going up and down (lairs. Not only the porches and walls of the houfes here without, but even the veftibules, and many of the inner apartments, are adorned with flags heads and their horns. The cielings for the moft: part are of Polifli afli, which makes a glittering fliew, and the joiners work is excellent. Their market-places and fquares are large and fpacious, and adorned with handfome fountains. The river Pegnitz runs through the middle of the city, which it en- ters by twelve large arches under the wall, and iflues out on the other fide of the town in the fame manner, but is not navigable. How- ever it turns a vaft quantity of mills in the town, for corn, paper, iron, &c. They have eleven fl:one bridges, one of which, confifl:ing but of one arch, is reckoned a fine piece of architefture. At one end of it there is a large flefli-market built of hewn fl:one, on whofe gate the butchers have placed a vafh ox of Hone, lying on his belly, with gilded horns and hoofs. This city is faid to have 550 flreets and TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. T37 and alleys, ten market-places, thirteen public baths, and a vaft number of conduits. Their chief fountain is adorned with a great many flatues of brafs; the fea-horfes about it are much larger than the life, and there is a Nep- tune three yards and a half high. This city is extremely populous, the inhabi- tants being reckoned above 60,000. The arti- ficers in iron, fteel, wood, ivory, alabafler, &c. afford their goods extremely cheap. 'Tis from this part of Germany that thofe toys, which we call Dutch, are imported hither. There is nothing but the genius and extraordinary dili- gence of this people that procures them fo fiourifhing a trade and plenty; for the country round about them is fandy and barren, fcarce affording any commodity to traffic with, but receiving the greateit part of its value from their labour and ingenuity. Though Nurenburg is fo large a place, yet they have properly but two parifh churches, thofe of St. Sebald and St. Lawrence. St. Sebald is the principal church, in which they have a vaft collection of relics. They fliew here a wooden crucifix, which paffes for a mafter-piece, and was made by the famous Albert 138 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Albert Durer. The tomb of St, Sebald is a fine piece of archite6ture. Sl. JLavvrence's church is the largeft, and is chiefly frequented by the nobility, mod of whom have their tombs and efcutcheons here. Both thefe churches are in the Gothic taile, but the laft has eight doors, ^vhich is looked upon as a piece of fuigularity. The great church-yard is worth feeing ; it contains above three thou- land tombs, with epitaphs and coats of arms wrought in brafs. There are no Jews fuffered to live in the city, becaufe they are faid to have formerly poifoned the fountains. They refide in a village in the neighbourhood, and for a fmali piece of money they are allowed to come into the city, upon condition of depart- ing the fame day. The eftabliflied religion is the Lutheran ; the Calvinifts are forced to go out of town to church ; and the Roman catholics, who are few in number, are allowed to perform their fervice only in one church, which is a commandery of the Teutonic or- der. The town houfe is very large, adorned with a beautiful and well-proportioned front, but has no fquare or court before it. There is a long TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 139 long gallery here, on the cieling of which a famous tournament that was held here above 300 years ago, is reprefcnted in relievo. The council chamber, dining room, and other apartments are well painted and gilt, filled with the arms of all nations, and adorned with curious pidures, medals, idols, fhells, plants, minerals, and other natural produdions. The floor is paved with gilt ftones, intermixed with divers colours ; and in one of the chambers there are pidures of moft of the great perfons in Germany, who have been here entertained. The city cellar is two hundred and fifty paces long, and contains, as they fay, twenty thou- fand tuns of wine. They have a very fine ob- fervatory here, with all the necefiary inftru- ments of aftronomy. The cafiile, where the Emperor lodges when he comes this way, is an ancient building after the Roman manner, and faid, though with very little foundation, to have been built by Nero. It fiands on a high rock, and is of an irregular figure, be- caufe they have been forced to make it agree- able to the mafs of the miQ:iapen and unequal rock. The well is faid to be one thoufand fix hundred feet deep, and the chain of the bucket 140 TOl'R THROUrUI GERMAVV. bucket to weigh three thoufand pounds. la one of the halls of this caftle there are four Corinthian pillars, about fifteen feet high, which are faid to have been brought from Rome by the devil, being challenged to it by a monk; v.'hich is juft as true as the (lory they tell of a conjurer's leaping on horfeback from the top of the caftle over the town ditch, in proof of which they (hew the print of the horfe's flioes in one of the ftones of the para- pet. Their arfenal is one of the bed furniftied in Germany. There are two great halls in it, each two hundred and fifty paces long. They reckon three hundred pieces of cannon, but moil of the other arms are after the old man- ner. Many of thofe great cannons are of a monftrous bore, which they call mermaids and bafilifks. In the town library, which is in a cloifler that formerly belonged to the Dominicans, there are about twenty thoufand volumes, collected moftly out of the ruins of feveral convents at the time of the reformation. The moft ancient manufcript is a Greek copy of the gofpels, which they fay is nine hundred years TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I4I years old, with the prayers and hymns for- merly ufed in the Greek church, in characters very different from thofe now in iife. They have here a treatife of predeilination, faid to have been printed at Spires in 1446; but there muft be a miftake in the date, becaufe they have another book printed by Fauflus at Mentz, in 1459, at the end of which there is an advertifement, *' That this book was not *' writ, but printed by an admirable fecret ^^ newly invented." Here is a figure of Mo- fes, which though but a foot high, has the whole Pentateuch writ upon it. They keep in this library many rarities and curious anti- quities, though inferior to thofe that are to be feen in private cabinets. This city among many other privileges, has the keeping of moft of the Imperial ornaments made ufe of ^t the Emperor^s coronation, as the Imperial crown with which Charlemain was crowned, his mantle, the golden globe, his fword, his golden fcepter, the Imperial cloak, all richly adorned with precious ftones, the gloves and the bufkins covered with plates of gold. Thefe ornaments were firft kept at Carlftein in Bohemia, then at Plinterburg in Hungary, 142 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* Hungary, and from thence fent by the Empe- ror Sigifmund to Nurenburg, where they are prefervcd in the church of the hofpital, along with a vaft number of relics too tedious here to mention. There are feveral diftinguilhed families in Nurenburg, which are honoured with the title of Patricians. Some of them are very rich, but fo haughty, that no body vifits them, and they fcarce vifit one another. They are apt to ape the noble Venetians in every thing, and to tyrannize over the people. They wear pointed hats, and monllrous bufhy ruffs. The city was formerly fubjecl to the family of Brandenburg, who fold them their liberty in 1477, but attempting to recover their fuperi- ority, it occafioned a long war, which did not end till 1552, when it was declared a free Imperial city. The Roman catholics are ne- ver advanced to any dignity, nor can they even enjoy the privileges of burghers, or free citizens. The council confifts of forty-two members, whereof twenty-eight are taken out of the ancient patrician families, and the reft from among the burghers ; fo that there are thirteen efchevins or aldermen, as many coun- cellors TOtTR THROUGH GERMANY. I43 fellors or common council men ; eight other fenators who are all patricians; and eight other counfellors eleded out of the corporations of trades and crafts, who are confeqiiently plebe- ians ; but thefe acquiefce fo implicitly in the decifion of the patricians, that they may be faid to have no vote. There are two burgo- mafters, one chofen out of the efchevins, the other out of the council, who have the direc- tion, the one of the military, and the other of the civil government, and are changed every month. The ordinary affairs of the go- vernment are debated in their common-coun- cil. The raifmg of forces or levying taxes, are ufually referred to a feleft number of the council, filled by way of eminence, the Sep- temvirate ; and upon any extraordinary emer- gency, the principal burghers ele6i:ed out of every trade and profefTion in the tov/n, are fummoned to the number of four hundred, who have alfo the power of eledting the mem- bers of the other courts. This city has under its jurifdidtion a country of about forty miles extent, Vi^hich contains feveral other towns and villages, the principal of which are Altorf, Burthan, Lauff, Fcucht, Herfchbruck, and Leich- 144 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Leiclitenau. The quota of Nurcnburg is 40 horfe, 250 foot, and 1480 florins, which is more than any other city in the empire. Its domain is larger, but it is not fo rich a city as Hamburg. There are numbers of very fine gardens in the neighbourhood towards Er- lang, which belong to the citizens. The merchants of this place began to trade to foreign parts about the year 1300, and their commodities were not only carried throughout Europe, but to the Eafl-Indies and America. Their trade has been for a great while upon the decline ; for befides that the trinkets formerly made here are much out of fafliion, efpecially in Germany, the manu- factures which the margraves of Bareith and Anfpach have fettled in their dominions, do confiderable prejudice to Nurenburg. Here are two annual fairs, and they have ftill a bank upon the fame footing almoft as that of Venice. The people in general are very honeft, but too full of their compliments. The women are handfome, but too apt to flare and laugh at ftrangers. There are two fuburbs to this chy, one called Wehrd, and the other GofTenhofT. At each gate of the city, a man is employed every TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I^tf every night to go to the top of a high tower, from whence he founds a frightful horn, to call people home from the fuburbs, and at the fecond blaft every one, except the patri- cians, mufl haften to town, or be Ihut out. Near the town walls, on the bank of the river Pegnitz, there is a large fquare, called the Field of Mars, where the youth are exercifed in wreftling and other manly recreations. This river meets with the Rednitz about a league from the town, and uniting their ftreams they run by Erlang, Paierfdorf, For- Iheim, and Bamberg, where they fall into the Maine, after having received fome other rivu- lets. In the neighbouring hills, and even on the plains, there are quarries of (lone, which, though very foft when freOi dug, grow as hard as marble, after being expofed a while to the fun. From Nurenburg it is forty-four miles through a country uniformly dull, and thro' roads rugged and forlorn. The village of Seinengin offers you, under the name of an inn, a wretched hovel to bait at. The exte- rior of Ratifbon is dark and difcouraging ; but you will meet with good quarters at the L white 146 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. white lamb, and one of the moft civil and accomodating landlords in Germany. R A T I S B O N. Ratifbon is fituated at the confluence of the Danube and the Regen. The dukes of Bava- ria poflefled it till 1 1 So, when the Emperor Frederic Barbaroffa made it an imperial town. It has ftill the remains of the palaces of the old dukes of Bavaria, which are venerable pieces of architedlure ; and there is yet a place in the corn market called the duke's palace, though there are fcarce any vifible remains of it. The city is large, populous, and pretty well fortified with a double wall, ditches and ramparts. The fituation is fuch as affords every thing for the pleafure and profit of the inhabitants. The neighbouring fields a- bound with all forts of corn and pafturage, befides vineyards, which produce a flrong and palatable wine. The houfes are gene- rally well built, and the flrcets large. In one of the old-fafhioned houfes, over againft the town- TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* I47 town-hall, there is a famous monument, rc- prefenting the emperor Henry the Fowler, and a duel betwixt a Turk and a nobleman of this city in 913, with the exa6l figure of the lances, armour, and habit of thofe times. This city, tho' fituated within the limits of the eledor of Bavaria's dominions, is govern- ed by its own magiftrates, without being fub- je(5t to the duke of Bavaria* It is the fee of a bifhop, who depends immediately upon the pope. The government is Lutheran, th/ougli the Roman catholics are equal in number to the Proteflants, and the cathedral in fad is in pofTeffion of the bifliop. They have feveral convents and abbeys here of the RomiQi com- munion, and among the reft an abbey for the Scotch nation. The cathedral is not admired for its beauty, or any other excellency ; but the monaftery of St. Emeran is well worth feeing. They have have a good library in this monaftery, containing fome curious ma- nufcripts, and among the reft a Latin copy of the four Evangelifts in golden letters, and in an old Lombard charader, written in 870. The abbot is prince of the empire, and de« pends immediately upon the pope. L z The I4S TOUR THROUGH GERMANTo The bridge of Ratilbon, cftcemed the fineft on the Danube, was begun in 1135 and fi- nifliedin 1156, at the joint charge of Henry X. of Bavaria and the city. It confifts of fifteen large arches, fupported by fquare pillars, de- fended from the violence of the water, and the (hoals of ice in winter, by (harp three- cornered buttrefles. It is twenty three feet* broad, and one thoufand and ninety-one long, having three handfome towers built upon it. The advantage of their fituation upon, and near, fo many navigable rivers, creates a brifk trade, and the concourfe of people occafioned by the diet, is of great fervice to the town. Ratiibon is the city where the diet is held, and one would imagine the number of En- voys from the different Princes of the Empire who are conftantly refident here, would give life to the place ; but they are forced to live very oeconomically, on account of the fmallnefs of their incomes. Many of them go about in hackney-coaches. As every thing that is for their ufe comes into the city duty free, the people of the place make heavy complaints of their fervarus for carrying on a large contra- band TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 149 band trade. Indeed they conceive that what they lofe by this, is more than an equivalent for what they gain by the diet in other refpeds. The fad is, that the Ambafladors from the geateft powers, who have large incomes, and feem to be paid for holding great ftate, hold none; aild as the other minifters regulate them- felves by their example, one may be feveral weeks in town without being fenfible that the diet is alTembled. The bufmefs of the diet is very tedious. This is owing to the prevalence of party on all great occafions , and the jealoufy which the great powers entertain of each other ; for the forrns, according to which bufinefs is done are in themfelves very fimple. The diet con- fifts of three colleges, to wit, the eledorate, that of the prince's, and that of the college of the ftates. The two firft are called the higher colleges, though they have no effen- tial pre-eminence over the other in the com- mon bufinefs of the diet. All thefe colleges ^flemble in a hall, to receive the emperor's propofitions ; thence they retire into three fe* parate chambers, where the votes of each other are colieded, in a manner well calculated for L 3 tb^e 1^0 >TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the purpofe. The majority decides in each chamber as to the rules of that chamber, and fo does the majority of the three colleges as to the determination of the whole. When the three colleges are unanimous, it is called a. conciunon of the diet, and is laid before the emperor, or his principal commiflary, a judg- ment of the diet. When one college differs from the two others, its conclufions are tranf- mitted to the emperor. The refolutions a- greed on are immediately executed, and at the concluflon of the diet, are entered among the decrees of the empire. The ele6toral college, befides the advantage it naturally derives from the fmall number of voters in it, whofe decifions are flill of as much weight as thofe of the other two, has a great additional influence from the circumftance of the five fecular members of it having near twenty votes in the college of princes. Since the death of the lad elector of Bavaria, it con- fifls but of eight voices ; the eledor and arch- bifhop of Mentz is the prefident. It is not yet fettled who is to have the decifive voice in cafe of any equality ; but as this is an event to be expedted, it is thought tlw there will I foori TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 151 foon be a ninth eledtor chofen from the hoiife of Wirtemberg or Hefle-CafTel. The only obflacle is the jealoufy of lome of the eledloral houfes, left the emperor ihould propofe one of his own dependants. In the college of princes there are in all one hundred votes, of which thirty-three are ec- clefiaftical, fixty-one fecular, and fix collec- tive. Thefe laft confift of two benches of pre- lates and abbcfles, namely the Suabian and Rhenifh, and of the four colleges of the counts of the empire, namely, the Wetter- avian, Suabian, Weftphalian, and Franconian. Each college of counts, and each bench of pre- lates, has one vote. There are twenty mem- bers on the bench of Suabian prelates, and nineteen on that of the Rhenifh ones. The Wetteravian college of counts has ten mem- bers, the Suabian twenty, the Franconian fixteen, and the Weftphalian thirty-four. There are many counts of the empire who are not included in this number, becaufe though they have been raifed to the dignity of count, th^y have not yet taken their feat at the diet. Other feats are vacant, becafue the lands they are attached to have fallen into greater houfes, L 4 the 152 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the mafters of which confider the privilege of voting as counts, as ilender and inconfidera- ble. The college of princes has this privi- lege peculiar to it, that one houfe .can have many voles ; thus the prefent eledor Palatine has feven votes, and his fucceflbr, the duke Deux-Ponts, will have eight; the king of PruIIia has five, and after the death of the prefent prince of Anfpach and Bareith, will have feven ; the eledor of Brunfuick has five. This arifes from the rank of princi- pality in the empire being vefled in the property, not in the perfon ; fo one per^ fon may pofTefs feveral properties, each of which feparately claims his title of princi- pality. Auftria and Saltfburg take it by turns to prefide over this college, the one one day, and the other the next. The archbilhop of Befan9on, and the king of Sardinia, as duke of Savoy, have for a long time left off fend- ing minifters to the diet, fo the college of princes confifts now only of ninety-eight votes. The college of the dates confifts of fifty-one, and is divided into two, namely, the Suabian and Rhenifh. On the firft there are thirty-fe- ven, and on the other fourteen feats. The 7 flate TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I53 {late in which the diet is held lias the direc- tion. The imperial court has a great influence in all the three colleges. The three ecclefiaftical eledors have been almoft conllantly creatures of the emperor, who fpares neither gold, threats nor promifes, to infpire the canons of IVIentz, Treves and Cologne, in the choice of a new archbifliop. Formerly our court ufed the fame methods of acquiring influence in the empire; but that channel is now flopped up for ever, by the vigilance and adivity of the court of Vienna. The emperor has the fame weight in the prince's college. Almofl: all the ecclefiaftical princes are his true fons^ The chapter of Luttoch is the only one, in modern times, which has dared to withfl:and the emperor's influence in the eledion of the fovereign. Befides thefc means of gaining influence, it has always been the maxim of the imperial court to raife the members of the hereditary dominion, who poffefled the fmall- eft fief in the empire, to the dignity of prin- ces, in order to infure them a feat and a vote in the diet. It is thus that the houfes of Lobkowits, Dieteichft:ein, Schwarzenberg, Lich- 154 TOUR THROUGH GEUMANY. Lichtcnftcin, Auerfburg, and Thurn, have been introduced into the college, infpite of the proteftation of all the old princes, merely to flrengthen the influence of the houfe of Au- ilria. The dukes of Aremberg are amongft the old princes; but as by far the greateil part of their pofTeliions lie in the hereditary lands of Auftria, they are ahnoft totally dependant on the court of Vienna. Many others of the old houfes, on account of the fituation of their pro- perties, alfo adhere to the emperor, who from one caufe or other, may be fuppofed to be fe- cure of half the votes to carry whatever he has a mind fhould be carried. In the college of towns he rules almofl without control ; for as thefe are almoft ail encornpaffed by mod pow- erful princes, they require the particular pro- teftion of the court of Vienna to prevent their being totally cruQied. Powerful as the Emperor's influence may be under fuch circumftances, ftill the flates find means to counterad the ftream, and in- terrupt its force, Mably has juftly obferved, in his remarks on the hiftory of France, that if you confider the empire as compofed of in- dependent flates, who have leagued with each other TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I^^ otiier for mutual defence, one could not devife wifer regulations than they have inftituted to fecure their liberty from internal ufurpers. The definition of the conftitution of the em- pire, * It is a confulion preferved by Go(j's * omnipotence/* is a juft one as long as the empire is erroneoufly confidered as a fmgle felf-fublifting ftate ; but if you view it, that is, as an afiembly of many free flates, who have knit themfelves together by a certain political fyftem, one (hall difcover, in place of confufion, a great deal of order ; and infhead of unmeaning connexion, a great deal of pru- dence and forefight. MUNICH. Munich is the capital of the electorate and dutchy of Bavaria. It is lituated on the river Ifer, which here divides itfelf into feveral channels, affording the citizens the conveni- lency of fountains within their houfes, and of mills within the walls. The fortifications are indifTerent, but the ftreets are broaci and re- gular, the houfes well built, and ornamented. The market-place is extremely fine, and the * Eft confufip divinitus confervata, houfes Ij6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. houfes about it uniform, with piazzas, and rich (hops underneath. The fplendor and beauty of its buildings, both public and private, and the magnificence of its churches and convents are fuch, that it furpalTes moil of the cities of Germany. The eledor*s palace may compare with mod in Europe. The architedure indeed is not very regular, having been built at feveral times ; but the infide is greatly admired for its rich and magnificent apartments. The long gallery is adorned with pidures of loo illuf- irious perfons, by the greateft mafters ; there is another gallery, the cieling of which repre- fents the principal towns, rivers, and caflles of Bavaria^ The great hall, called the emperor's, is a beautiful apartment, ii8 feet long, and 52 broad, which Gudavus Adolphus faid he was forry he could not get removed to Stockholm. This noble room is adorned with curious pic- tures of facred hiftory on one fide, and pro- fane on the other, by the hand of Candi : beyond it is a fine hall, where the electors give audience to foreign miniflers. The hall^ filled with antiquities brought from Rome, exceeds TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I57 exceeds all the reft : here are 354 bnfts, of jafper, porphyry, brafs, and marble, &c. The library contains a vaft colledlion of printed books, in moft languages, principally ancient; beiides a great many valuable manufcripts, particularly a Latin treatife in folio, in an old Iquare charadler, faid to be written by Pope Clement I. to St. James the Apoftle. The chamber of rarities contains the figures of ParnalTus, and the nine Mufes in coral. The furniture of the palace is fuitable to the magnificence which has long diftinguifhed this. In the dreffing-room of the Eledrefs the moft coftly metals are lavifhed with a pro- fulion hardly credible : many of the pillars of the palace are encrufted with a compofition which refembles marble, and is fo well harden- ed and polilhed as fcarce to be diftinguiihed from it. The gardens of the palace are reckoned exceeding fine, but they are laid out in the French tafte, with' terraces and water-works, as to afford but little pleafure to an Englilh eye. Round one part of the garden there is a grand piazza, adorned with pidures, repre- fcnting the princes of the Bavarian family. 158 TOUR THROUGU GERMANY* At the end of this piazza there is a very fin^ honfc, the lower part of which is an orangery y and the upper part a fummer-houfe, where in that feafon the ele(5lor has a drawing-room. Near this is a menagery, where lions and other wild beads are kept. This piazza leads to a very fine riding-houfe, 366 feet long, and 76 broad ; it has 80 great windows, and all round there runs a gallery for the fpedbators, whea there are caroufels or tournaments. Here is a grand box for the elector, which is richly carved, and big enough for all the eledoral family. Here is alfo a magnificent opera room, and a ftage fuitable to it, with fuperb decorations. The neareft church to the pa* lace is that of the Theatins, which, together with their monaftery, was built by the eledor* The great church, dedicated to the Virgiri Mary, is beautified with two firne towers, each 333 feet high. At the entrance of the great gate of this church there is a particular place,^ from whence fuch a regularity is obferved ia the difpofition of the pillars that fupport the roof, that not a window is to be perceived in it, though there are a great many. In the choir is a magnificent tomb of the emperor Lewis TOUR THROUGH GERMANY- I ^9 Lewis of Bavaria. In the Virgin's chapel there- is an altar of ebony, the bafes, chapiters, &:c- of ivory. The convent of Francifcans is a fine fpacious building, noted for a piece of clock-work re- prefenting two Engliih cavaliers, to whom an angel blows a trumpet. The church of the Auguftinians, the parifli church of St. Peter, the Capuchins convent, St. James's nunnery, St. Nicholas's church, St. Sebaftian's with its chapel, and feveral other churches of this city, have fine ornaments, and are all remark- able for fome particular beauty. Three miles from Munich is the charming palace of Nymphenburgy iituated in the midft of a plain. It conlifted at firft of only one great pavillion, built by the eleftrefs Mary Adelaide of Savoy; but her fon Maximilian eaufed feveral apartments to be added to it, together with fine ftables, and grand gardens. Adjoining to the gardens there is a little park, which, as well as the adjacent fields, abounds with pheafants, partridges, &:c. There is al- fo a neighbouring park, eight leagues in com- pafs, and cut into a great number of fine long roads. A grand avenue leads to the iron gates of l66 TOUR TitROUGH GiERMANYi of this palace from Munich, confifting of a double row of elms on each fide of a mag- nificent canal, which has at each end a fpacious bafon adorned with water-works. The entrance to this caftle is by an afcent of marble fleps : The firft room you come to is a high fpacious faloon, from each fide of which there is a paffage into fevera! apart- ^ ments, beautifully laid our, and magnificently furniHied. In one of them are pictures of the fixteen miilreires of the eledor Maxu miUan Emanuel, and the Emperor Charles the feventh^ a fight which decency might have fpared. You enter the gardens from the great hall, by a defcent of marble ileps. The firft thing that ftrikes the eye is a parterre of vaft; ex- tent, at the end of which is one of the mofl agreeable woods" in the world. This wood is cut by three walks ; the middlemoll fronts the great pavilion of the caftle, has a large canal in the middle of it, and is adorned with fine ftatues ; the fecond on the right hand leads to the mall, where you fee a pavilion called the caflle of the Pagods, built in the form of the Pagods temples, and richly adorned with In- dian TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 16.I dian furniture. The third leads to the caftle of Baths a more confiderable building, over againfl: the caftle of the Pagods, on the other £de of the canal. This beautiful houfe, in which are fpacious baths lined with marble, is furrounded with fine pieces of water, adorn- ed with cafcades and ftatues. m the Gardens there is a cloyfter of Nuns of Notre Dames, and under the fame roof, parted only by a wall, an hofpice of Capuchin Friars : tliere is alfo here a China manufa6i:ure, but it Ijeems falling to decay. The fatisfaction which is derived from the .fplendour of this court, is allayed by the re- flexion of the pecuniary inconveniences that attend it. A feries of the eledors of Bavaria, have been profufe in ,their tafte for hunting or building, for gardening or for mufic; the latter is the paffion of the prefent .Eledlor Charles Theodore, the fums he lavifhes on it are inconceivable ; and his orcheftra and opera are only inferior to thofe of Naples and Turin. Though inadequate to his expences his domi- nions, and revenue are very confiderable. Ba- varia with the Palatinate is fuppofed to con- lain feven hundred and twenty-nine fquarc M miles. l6l TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. miles. The fouthern part of this country is very mountainous, but not fo unfit for agri- culture as geographers commonly report it to be. In many of the vallies of thefe vafl moun- tains, the foil is excellent ; the part which ex- tends from the capital to the Danube and the Inn, is the bed arable land throughout the country, and is interfered by feveral well wooded hills. The upper Palatinate, toge- ther with that part of the dukedom of Bava- ria which lies beyond the Danube, confifts almoft intirely of mountains. Thefe rife gra- dually from the Danube to Fichtelberg and the Bohemian ridge of mountains, but are fit for every kind of agriculture. A confiderable part of this, by nature fo highly favoured country, has lain wade fmce the wars. There are many large trads which the inhabitants call mofles, but which are not fo fenny and fpungy as the turf and moor grounds of Holland and other countries. In jnany of them you may perceive the traces of the old furrows, add there are proof fuffi- cient that they have been cultivated and might be eafily cultivated again. . ', 4 It TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 163 It may alfo arife from the indolence of the people ; at the capital they are fenfiial, and in the countrydirty and lazy. A few miles diftant from Munich, one would hardly take the hovels of the peafants for the habitations of men; many of them have large puddles before the doors of their houfes. The charaderiftic of a Bavarian is a very round head, a little peaked chin, a large belly, and a pale complexion. Many of them look like caricatures of men. They have great fat bellies, fhort clubbed feet, narrow fhoulders, a thick round head, and (hort necks. They are heavy and aukward in their carriage, and their fmall eyes betray a great deal of roguery. The women, in general, are fome of the moft beautiful creatures in the world. They are indeed fomething grofs, but their fkin fur- paifes all the carnation ever ufed by painters ; the pureft lily white is foftly tinged with pur- ple, as if by the hands of the graces. Some peafant girls are to be met with whofe com- plexions appear quite tranfparent, and who infinitely exceed the men in Ihape, grace, and vivacity, M 51 The 164 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, The army here confifts of aboni thirty regi'- ments, which are not above eighteen thou-* fand men. One fifth of thofe at leail are offi- cers. In the laft century anci the beginning of this, they maintained the firft reputation a- mong the German forces. At the battle of Hochledt they kept their ground, and ima- gined themfelves vidors, till the eledor who led them was informed, that the French hacj given way in the other wjQg. Under Tilly and Merci they likewise did wonders; but fmce the time of thefe generals, military dif^ cipline has fo far relaxed among them th^C they are no longer foldiers. SALTZBURG. From Munich you may make a Tour to Saltzburg, which is at the diftance of 54 miles from the capital of Bavaria. The road is dull, it lies through a vaft plain only here and there broken by gentle elevations. The many dark-woods, the miferable and thin fcattered peafantry, the want of towns, and the continual dread of robbers make one haf- ten tOlTR THROUGtl GERMANY. l6^ ten* out of Bavaria as quick as poflible. For feventecn long German miles, there is no place, but the gloomy town of WeiTenburg, which rifes on a fand bank, (o totally encom- pafled by the river Inn that it deferves the name of a peninfula. When you come to the frontiers of Saltz- burg things mend. The profpe6ls are more varied, the habitations of the peafants appear neater, and the cultivation of the country im- proves ; about half a mile from Saltzburg there is a profped really delightful. Conceive to yourfelf a vaft amphitheatre ; the back ground of the pidlure is occupied by high rocks lifting up their heads to heaven ; fome of them, which are rather on the lide, are in the (hape of pyramids. Thefe vafl maffes terminate by degrees in wooded moun- tains to the back, and in beautiful and culti- vated hills to the fide of the profped. Pre- cifely in the mMft of this fcene ilands the town, which is commanded by the cafhle {landing on a high rock. The river Saltz gives the mixed landfcapes Hill more life. Here and there it fpreads itfelf out, and its M 3 banks l66 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. banki ilT'many places arc ihaded with deep hanging woods. The country about this town forms a ftrik- ing contrail with the barren, defolate wilds of Munich. It is indeed very flriking and ex- hibits a matchlefs and admirable union of na- ture and art. The ftrcam divides itfelf into two unequal parts. To the weftward, where the greateft part of the town lies, there rife$ on the wide plain a high, round, flcep and hard rock, which has the caftle as a crown on it. The river winds along by the foot of this rock ; and at a fmall diftance from it, there rifes a mountain of foft ftone diredly perpendicular on both fides, and about one hundred feet high. Upon this natural wall, which is much higher than the higheft houfe of the town, there grows a thick wood, in the midil of which are feveral plantations. Through the part of the wall where it is only fixty feet broad, they have cut a handfome paflage. On the other fide of the river, there is the moil romantic rock ever feen. It is a kind of naked wall, which ftretches along the plain from the river for three miles, and. is five hundred feet high. I cannot better de- fcribe tOtlR THROUGH GERMANY. 167 fcribe the peculiarity of this fituation to you than by bidding you to conceive the town as the centre of a fetni-circle of hills, the two parts of the river as femi-diameters, and this wall as a radius of the circle. The town itfelf is very handfome — the Loufes are high, and built all of flone. The roofs of the houfes are in the Italian talie, and you may walk out upon them. The Inns are noble ; and above all the cour im- periale. The Cathedral is a magnificent building of free flone; it is conftrudted after the mo- del of St. Peters at Rome, and has four mar- ble flatues bigger than the life, of St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Rupert, and St. Virgilius. The whole church is adorned on the infide with pilafters of the Corinthian order. It is built in form of a crofs, with a lofty dome, fepa- rating the nave from the choir. The high aU tar at the bottom of the choir is of marble, as are two chapels that form the crofs : the pavement of the church is of great fquares of marble of various colours. The front of the altar and the tabernacle are of malTy (il- -ver, of excellent workmanfhip. The orna- M 4 ments l68 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ments on grand feftivals are fiirprizingly mag^ nificcnt. This cathedral was rebuilt in 1628 by an archbifhop of the family Lodron. The palace was founded by the fame prince but altered greatly by the late archbi(hop An- tony count de Harracbe, fo as to furpafs the magnificence of many royal houfes. It con- tains one hundred and feventy-three rooms, all richly furnifhed, exclufive of the halls and galleries. The archbifhop's apartment is {lately, having a great marble flair-cafe lead- ing into a fpacious guard chamber; and the cielings are painted by the very bed mafters from Italy. The furniture is furprizingly rich ; and yet there is another apartment that fur- paffes it, which is only made ufe of upon days of ceremony, as when the archbifhop dines in flate. At the end of this grand apartment there are two magnificent galleries, adorned with choice paintings. The chimney-pieces, floors, cielings, door-cafes, and all the orna- ments in general are of fine marble. The walls are painted in frefco, and exhibit geo- graphical plans of the principal dominions in Europe. A third apartment over the archbi- fliop's, and not lefs magnificent, is for lodging foreign TOUR THROUGH GERMAN^. 169 foreign princes. It confifts of afuite of rooms, in one of which are the pidures of all the em- perors from Charles the Great to Charles VI. The rooms that follow it are hung with very rich tapeftry ; particularly one fet reprefenting the war betwixt Pompey and Ca^far. The ftables adjoining to this fine palace are worthy a prince : they hold one hundred and fifty horfes in two rows, with a broad walk in the middle; and the roof, which is pretty high, is fupported by two ranges of ilone pillars. Next to thefe ftables are two grand riding houfes, one covered, the cieling of which refembles a tournament, and all round it there is a gallery. The other, which is un- covered, is the fineft in Europe. It is a very large fquare place, three fides of which are lined by very high rocks, wherein three rows of feats are very artfully cut out for the fpec- tators, when there is any caroufal or combat of wild beads. There are no gardens to this grand palace, becaufe it ftands in the very heart of the city where the ground is much wanted. There is another palace called Mirabel, where the archbifhop fpends the fummer. It was 170 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY- was built at a very great expence by the abovementioned prelate the Count de Har- rach. The grand ftaircafe is greatly admired, as well for its contrivance, as for its rich orna- ments. The laloon is alfo admired for the grand manner in which it is painted. The pilafters are built in the Corinthian order; and there are balTo relieves, that make a very good appearance. The chapel is alfo very magnificent. This palace is accompanied with gardens finely adorned with fountains, flatucs, orange trees, &c. Near this palace of Mirabel is the church of Trinity college, extremely well adorned. The floor is of marble, and the cieling beau- tifully painted with the reprefentation of the afuimption of the Virgin. The high altar is very magnificent. From the convent of the Capuchins there is a profped of a vafb trad of country. St. Sebaftian's church-yard is a fquare, incompafied with a gallery fupported by arches, one hundred and nineteen paces long, and ninety-fix broad; here is the tomb of Paracelfus, the famous chymift, who died Sept. 4th, 1 541. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I7I The univerfity belonging to this city is one of the mofl-confiderable in the empire, and direded by the Benedidine monks. The city does not afford much amulement, the in- habitants living pretty much among them^ felves. The neighbourhood of Saltzburg is not difagreeable ; and though the valley in which this city ftands is pretty much inclofed with mountains, yet it affords a great number of pleafing objeds. The archbifhop has two pieafure houfes, viz. Cleifheim and Heilbron, both of them beautiful and magnificent. Heilbron efpecially is worth feeing, on ac- count of its fine waters and cafcades. The country is the mod romantic imagina- ble : that part which is towards the town has the appearance of an immenfe pyramid ; but it ftretches backwards into a rock, which is a mile long, and takes fix or (even hours to walk round. A common traveller will reacl^ the top in five hours ; but the goat hunters, who climb like cats, do it in three. There is a profped from it over all Bavaria, and you may reckon nine lakes in fight. The mod charming part of the profped is the princi- pality of Berchtoldfgaden, which lies to the fouth l^i TOUR THROtJGH GERMANY. fouth of the mountain, and confifts of a woody wall encom paired round with vaft heights of the moft pidurefque granate. Amongft them the Watzman is diilinguiihed by its perfectly conical appearance. The appearance of the lakes around the dark woods, have an un- fpeakably fine efFed. The profped into fome of the neighbouring vallies of Saltzburg, is not lefs beautifuL This mountain feems a proof of the truth of the fyftem taken up by Mr. Buffon, with regard to mountains. It confifts of a mafs of granate, worked into the foil, in the declivities and depths of which, here and there fand and chalkftone lie as if floated in water. The lower parts of the mountain are well wooded, and it has fome very good mines of red and white marble. From one of thefe mines, there is a fine profped of the town ; at fome 4iftance from them, in a wide gap of the mountain, there is a very remarkable water- fall. A rapid ftream (which in fpring, when the (now begins to melt, muft be much larger than it is now) breaks oin from a cleft of the rock ; which you enter by means of fome arti- ficial fteps. In the cleft, where one fhivers with TOUR THROUGH GE1^M4NY. 1 7-3 with cold, you hear in the infide of the monn- tain, a dull rumbling, like tar diftant thunder, probably the mountain has fome lake in its bofom, into whjch the fnovv and rain water precipitating froui above, occauon.ihe noife. There is not a doubt but this internal body of water mud in time prove deftrudtive to the mountain. The tradition of the country is, that the Emperor Charles the Great and his whole army, are confined and &ut up in this mountain, until Doomfday, and will continue till then, amufing themfeives with this terrible noife. On a certain day of the year, about midnight, the Emperor is to be feen with his train of miniflers and generals, going in pro- ceffion to the cathedral ot Saltzburg. From the cleft whence the fpirit of the great Charles iffues to walk by night, the flream precipitates itfelf with a loud noife, and falls in a variety of cafcades down the deep and narrow gully which it leems to have dug itfelf in the hard marble. Here and there it has hollowed oat bafons of marble by its fall, which no power of art could have given a better polifli to. Indeed they are fo nicely conftruded, that the lovers of antiquity in the neigh- f74 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. neighbourhood have aftually been at the painv to prove that they are ancient baths. Quite below, at the foot of the mountain, behind a mill, the fall prefents a moll picturefque ap- pearance. It is not very high at this point, but very fingular, becaufe the water is divided into innumerable threads, which crofs each other in fuch varied and ftrange ways, amidft the fragments of the rock which have fallen from above, that no imagination can devife a trafcade fo fanciful and capricious. Here on the detached rocks are fmall pine-trees, which infinitely increafe the beauty of the fcene. The water of this flream is fo cold, that you could not hold your hand in it ten feconds ; and yet in the greateft perfpiration, you may drink as much as you pleafe, without the fmalleft danger ; as you digeft it as eafily as air. That part of the principality of Saltzburg which lies to the north of the capital, is like- wife very mountainous, but it produces fuffi- cient grain for the fupport of its inhabitants. But about fix miles from the town, there is ik long narrow valley, which flretches itfelf firfl: fome miles fouthward, and then weft ward, is bounded TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 175 bounded by vaft mountains, is watered by the river Saltza, conftitutes the greateft part of the principality, but fcarcely bears one third part of the neceflary grain. The entrance to this valley is called the Pafs of Lueg or Luhk, a word which in low Dutch and Englifti ligni- fies Look, and anfwers to the watch tower of many Imperial towns and territories. This pafs is a deep narrow hollow between naked, fufpended, perpendicular rocks of granate, which hang over on each fide, rife to an enor- mous height, and through which the Saltza pours with great impetuofity. Above the river they have cut a path in the rock, and there is a gate, with hardly room enough for a fmgle carriage to pafs, protected by a bat- tery, fo that a few people here could withftand a whole army. The other approaches to this valley are equally well guarded, and nature feems to have fortified it as well as Wales. Befides this large valley, there are feveral lefler ones adjoining, which belong to this principality. They are of the fame nature as the other, and the inhabitants of them live chiefly by breeding cattle. In many places you may find very rich farmers, who own from fixty 176 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, fixry to fourfcore head of great cattle. They export fome cheefe and butter, but not near fo much as they might do, if the inhabitants were as indullrious, frugal, and difpofed for trade as the Swifs, Befides horned cattle they alfo breed great numbers of horfes which are very ilrong, and are exported to great diftances for the purpofes of heavy burden and draught ; their fhape is not handfome ; their heads are too thick, and their hind quar- ters top high. The farmers u(e them to hard labour at ihree years old, and this is the caufe why they foon become fliif, and cannot ferve for coach horfes. The peafant of this country cannot content himfelf with cheefe and potatoes, as the Svvifs does ; but mufl always have his meat, which, however fat it may be, he conftantly dips in hog's lard. He muft have an abundance of good breads beer and brandy, Confidering the natural fituation of the country, this too expenfive mode of living would make them the poorefl people in Europe, if the extrava- gance was not counterbalanced by a prudent and admirable oeconomy in other refpeds. The Saltzburg peafant clothes himfelf from I head • tOtJR THROUaH' 'GERMANr. • t^7 head to foot : every family weaves a fort of coarfe, dark grey cloth, from wool which they grow and prepare themfelves. They alfo make their own fhoes and {lockings. Their drefs is by thefe means cleanly, fimple, and graceful. With all this, the equality between the income and expenditure of the country is chiefly kept up by the mines. The falt-works at Hallein are without com- parifon the mod confiderablc. The internal part of this mountain, which is about four miles diftant from this place, confifts of cry- flals of fait, mixed with a great deal of earth. In order to clean it, they dig large hollow chambers within-fide, and fill them with wa- ter, which waflies the fait, and lets the eardi fmk to the bottom. The water thus impreg- nated, is conveyed into pans and boiled off. In courfe of time the chambers fill of them- felves again with fait, and the treafure is inex- hauftible. One of thefe chambers, when it is lighted up, makes one of the prettied fights in the world. Conceive to yourfelf a hall about a hundred feet fquare, the walls and ground of which are compofed of cryfbals of every earthly colour, and which refled the N light lyS TOUR THnoucn Germany. light Co wonderfully, that you would think yourfelf in fome enchanted palace. In order to carry on this work, the woods of the forefts along the Saltza and other rivers is floated down them. This may perhaps in time put a flop to it, for the fmall woods are already vi- fibly thinner. From the unfavourable fituation of this country, it cannot ufe the whole of this trea- fure for itfelf, but is obliged to give up the mod part to foreigners. All the country round is either Auftrian or Bavarian. The firft have fait fufficient for their own ufe, and all im- portation of foreign fait is prohibited. On the other hand, the Bavarian falt-work at Ratifbon is fo produdlive, that it not only provides fufficient for that country, but alfo can afford a confiderable quantity to foreign- ers. In confequence of all this, the archbi- fhops of Saltzburg have found themfelves obliged to enter into an agreement with the dukes of Bavaria, in virtue of which, thefc take a certain quantity of fait every year, at a very moderate price, and furnifli Switzerland and Suabia with it. By this means, the fait trade of Saltzburg is properly in thehands of the Bavarians, TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 179 Bavarians^ who gain full three times as much by it as the princes of Saltzburg. The value of the fait, which Bavaria ilipulates to take year- ly, amounts to about two hundred thoufand florins, or 20,oool. What is difpofed of in the country itfelf, or carried into Auftria clan- deftinely, makes on the whole about three hundred and fifty thoufand florins, or 35,000!. of which two thirds may be clear gain. The gold and filvcr mines of this principality make a great figure in the geography of Ger- many ; but compared with the falt-works, are not worth mentioning. In the regifters of the cuflom-houfe, you may fee the entry of all the gold, filver, iron, copper, and other mines or pits ; on an average of the laft ten years, the prince's clear gain from all his works, was about fixty-five thoufand florins, or 6,500!. a year. He works them almofl all himfelf ; for fome years paft he has loft, in digging a gold mine in the neighbourhood of Gaftein, about twenty thoufand florins, or 2000I. a year, which he has ventured, in the treacherous hopes of being rewarded in time with a rich fpoil, and partly that the valley where it is dug, whofe inhabitants live folely by thefe works, N 2 may iSo TOUR THROUGH GERxMANY. may not become a wade. The iron here is brittle, and in no great reqiieft. The prince has alfo a brafs manufadlory on his own ac- count^ but the calamine neceffary for it grows every day more fcarce in the country. It has been faid, that the income of the archbifhop amounts to four millions of florins, or 40O3OOCI. but it would be dangerous to offer him twelve hundred thoufand florins, or i2o,oool. for his whole revenue. The mofl probable account is, that the taxes, tolls, and crown lands, including the produce of t^e mines, &c. do not yield much above fix hun- dred thoufand florins, or 6o,oool. The extent of the country is eftrmated at two hundred and forty German fquare miles. There are only feven or eight towns, fome of which are not to be compared with a Suabian village. The total number of inhabitants is computed at two hundred and fifty thoufand, of which the capital contains fourteen thou- fand. There is only one manufacture in the whole country, which is a fmall one at Hal- lein for cotton ftockings and night-caps. Since there has been a good road made to Triefte, Saltzburg carries on a confiderablc trade TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, iSi trade in fpiccs and drugs, with which it fup- phes a great part of Bavaria. The roads through this mountainous country are in ge- neral very good. Notwithftanding here and there you pafs on wooden bridges hung by chains, over Ibme dreadful abyfies, the hea- vieft carriages have nothing to fear, except perhaps the being overfet by a violent blaft of wind, or being covered by a fall of fnow in fpring. As notwithftanding the unfavourable ac- count you have received of proceeding by water to Vienna, you may be tempted to em- bark on the Ifer, the following defcription from Dodlor Burney will fufficiently inform you of the difficulties that you mufl: expedl to ftruggle with in the voyage. The Ifer, upon which the city of Munich is fituated, and which empties itfelf into the Danube, about a hundred miles below, though very rapid, is too much fpread and fcattered into different channels, to be fufficiently deep for a bark, or any kind of paiTage-boat, that has a bottom to float upon it. The current of this river is even too rapid for any thing to be brought back againft it ; but Bavaria be- N 3 ing l82 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ing a country abounding with wood, particu- larly fir, rafts, or floats made of thofe trees, lafhed together, are carried down the ftream, at the rate of feventy or eighty miles a day. Upon thefe rafts, a booth is built for paflen- gers in common ; but if any one chufes to have a cabin to himfelf, he may have it built for about four florins. We quitted Munich at two o'clock in the afternoon. The wea- ther was intenfely hot, and a clear fky and burning fun, refleded from the water, having rendered our fir cabin as infupportable as the open air. It was conftrufled of green boards, which exuded as much turpentine as would have vanquirhed all the aromatics of Arabia. All that my forefight had fuggefted to me, in the way of furniture and provifions, \yere a mattrefs, blanket, and (heets ; fome cold meat, with bread, and a bottle of wine; there was water in plenty always at hand. In quitting Munich by water, the city is i^ beautiful objed ; but the country they pafl^'- ed through is a wretched one, to all appear- ance; there being nothing but willows, fedge_, fand, and gravel in fight. The water was fo fhallow in feveral places, that we thought their TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 1 83 their float would have fluck fad. At fix o'clock we arrived at Freifing, the fee and fovereignty of a prince bifliop ; his palace is placed on a high hill at a little diftance from the town, which is on another hill, aand looks very pretty from the water-fide. Here the company went on Ihore to fup and fleep; but how indifferent were their ac- commodations may be gueffed, fmce my fervant was unable to procure a little frelh bread. There had been no rain in thefe parts of Germany for fix weeks; but, when we arrived at Freifing, a little black cloud to the weflward in lefs than half an hour, produced the mofl violent florm of thunder, lightning, rain, and wind. Two fquare holes were cut in the boards of the cabin, one on each fide, by way of window; the pieces were to ferve as cafe- ments, one of thefe was loft, fo that I was forced to faften with pins, a hankerchief a- gainft the hole, to keep out wind and rain ; but it anfwered the purpofe very ill, and moreover, it rained in, at a hundred dif- ferent places drop, drip, drop, fometimes oa N 4 my 184 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. my face, fometimes on my legs, and always fomewhcre or other. This with the vio- lent flaflies of lightning and burfts of thun- der, kept off drowfinefs ; the people of Ba- varia ftem at leaft, three hundred years be- hind the reft of Europe in philofophy, and ufefiil knowledge. Nothing can cure them of th^. folly of ringing the bells whenever it thunders, or periuade them to put up con- dudors to their public buildings ; though the lightning here is fo mifchievous, thatlaft year, no lefs than thirteen ; churches were deftroy^ ed by it, in the eledoiate of Bavaria. The bell^, in the town of Freiling were jingling the whole night, the inn on Ihore was mifer- able ; it rained into every room of the houfe, and no provifions could be found for, thefe fifty people, :but black bread and beer, boil- ed up with tvv^o or three eggs. At fix we got into motion, the rain and wind- continuing with great fury, and from violent heat, the air grew fo chill and cold, tliat I found it impoffible to keep myfelf warm with allthe things Its could put on. For though I added to my drefs a pair of thick ihoes, woollen ftockings, a .flannel waiftcoat, great coat TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 185 coat and night-cap, with all the warm gar- ments in my pofTeflion, yet I was benumbed with cold. We advanced for four hours through a dreary country, as far as we were able to defcry, but the weather was fo bad, that I could not often examine it. At ten o'clock fome fir trees appeared, which enlivened the view, and at eleven, nothing elfe could be feen on either fide. There was a very high and deep Hi ore on the right, covered with firs, and on the left, trees fcattered near the water, and groves at a diftance. At eleven, the float flopped at Landfhut, where the paf- fengers dined. At fix o'clock, the float flopt at Dingelfmg; in the evening I gcwf a can- dle, which was a luxury denied to me the night before in the thunder florm. Rain, rain, eternal rain, and wind, made the water nothing lefs than pleafant. The next morning was clear, but cold. The paliengers landed at Landau about ten ; at one they entered the Danube. The river grew larger as we defcended : we ftopt at at two o'clock at a miferable village, with liov/ever a fine convent in it. Here the wind became l86 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. became very violent ; at three, it was deter* mined to flay here all night, as it was not fafe to ftir during this wind; but as this feems, and is called, Le Pais des vents, it was an exercife for patience to be ftopt at a place where we had nothing to do. My provifions grew fliort and ftale, and there were none of any kind to be had here ! At three in the morning, the palTengers were called, and foon after the float was in motion ; it was now a huge and unwieldy machine, a quarter of a mile long, and load- ed with deals, hogfheads, and lumber of all kinds. The fun rofe very bright ; but at fix there was a flrong cafterly wind, full in ouj teeth,'^ land fo great a fog, that not a fingle objed could be feen on either fide the river. At eight o'clock we ftopt at Vilfchofen, a fweet fituation. Here is a wooden bridge of fixteen arches, over the Danube. The hills on the oppofite fide of the town are covered with wood, and exceedingly beautiful. The fog was diffipated, and the fun now fhone on them in great glory. There is a gentle vifit here from the cuftom-houie officers ; the feals were cut off my trunk, being the laft town in TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 187 in Bavaria. They threatened hard however, as to the fevere examination to be undergone upon entering Auftria. At half an hour pad nine we fet off for PafTau, in very fine weather. The Danube abounds in rocks, fome above water, and fome below, which occaiion a great noife by the rapidity of the current, running over, or againft them. We met this morning a gang of boats, laden with fait, from Saltzburg and PaiTau, dragged up the river by more than forty horfes, a man on each, which expence is fo great, as to enhance the price of that commo- dity above four hundred per cent. We did not feem to move fo faft now as upon the Ifer, which had frequent cafcades ; and fometimes the float dipped fo deep, as to have three or four feet of water rufh fuddenly into my c^- bin. P A S S A U. This is the boldeft, and at the fame time the pleafantefl fituation, that 1 ever faw. The town lS8 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. town is built on the lide and fummit of a ileep hill, on the right of the Danube. There is a hill on the other fide, anfwering to that on \vhich the town is built ; however, there are but few houfes upon it. At the end of this town is the confluence of three rivers; the Inn, on the right hand; the Iltz, on the left ; and the Danube in the middle. After this jundion, the Danube becomes more and more rapid : the fhoreon each lide,. for a confiderable way below Paffau, has hills and rocks as high as thofe at Brifhol ; but ihefe are covered with fpruce fir trees and box, and look much lefs terrible, though quite as high. Thefe rocks deprived us of the fun at three in the afternoon. About four miles below Paffau, Auftria is on the left, and Bavaria on the right, as far as Ingelhart- zeil, when we were fairly entered into Auftria. Here is the cuftom-houfe, but the examina- tion was flight, and the trunks of the pafTen- gers were fealed. Thus far the Danube runs between two high mountains, and fometimes it is fo com- prefTed and fhut up, as to be narrower than the Thames at Mortlake. The defcent is often TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* 189 often fo confiderable, that the water cannot be leen at the diftance of a quarter oi a mile, and fometimes the noife againft rocks is as violent, and as loud as a catarad. At the entrance into Auftria the value of money is lowered ; fo that a lilver piece, worth twelve creuzers, in Bavaria, is inftantly lowered to ten ; a florin, of fixty creuzers, becomes only worth fifty ; a ducat of five flo- rins, is lowered to four florins, twelve creuzers; and a fovereign of fifteen florins, to twelve florins thirty creuzers ; a louis d'or, from eleven to nine florins, twelve creuzers ; and a great crown to two florins. We went upwards of eight leagues, be- tween two mountains, and flopt for the night, at a wretched place, which afforded no kind of refrefliment. Friday morning, Augufl: 28th. This river continues running through the fame woody, wild, and romantic country; which, to pafs through, is pleafant and entertaining, to a ftranger, but produces nothing, except firing, to the poor inhabitants. For fifty miles not a corn field or pafture is to be feen. Sheep, oxen, calves, and pigs, are all utter ftrangers 4 in 190 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. in this land. Behind thefe mountains were huge forefls. At A(ha the country opens a little. Here river after river, comes tumbling into the Danube, and yet it grows rather more deep than wide, by thefe acceffions ; but many fmall rivers detach themfelves from it, and iflands are frequently formed in the middle and fides of this world of waters : a little way before Lintz, however, a flat fenny country appeared, with high mountains, covered with trees, at a diflance. L I N T Z. The approach to this town, by water, is very beautiful. There is a road on each fide the Danube, at the foot of high mountains and rocks, covered with trees, by which the river is again bounded. The caflle is feen at a diftance, and houfes and convents, upon the fummit of fome of the highefl hills, have a line appearance. There is a bridge over the Danube of twenty very wide arches. The town is built on the fummit and fides of high hills, and in fituation much refemblcs Paflau. AH TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I9I All along the Danube, near any town, there are little chapels ereded, at only twenty or thirty yards diftance from each other, fometimes on the fides of thefe mountains, and in places too narrow for a foot-path* ; and not a houfe in Lintz that had not a virgin or a faint, painted or carved, upon it. At Spieburg, which is only the (hell of an old caftle, upon a little ifland, is the firft of the two other water-falls in the Danube, that are faid to be fo dangerous ; however, now, there was nothing formidable in it but the iioife. Ens, a large city, is here in fight, upon the right hand ; the country difagreeable ; the river is fometimes like a fea, fo wide that there is fcarce any land in fight; at other times it is broken, and divided into fmali flreams, by iilands. The raft ftopt at a hovel on the left bank of the river, where the paf- fengers landed and fpent the night. I re- mained in my cabin, where, I believe, I was much better off, as to bed, than any of them; * Thefe chapels, as they are called, are not fufficientiv fpacious to contain either layman or prieft, they are only intended as receptacles for a crucifix or a virgin. 3 hut, 192 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. but, for proviiions, we were all on a footing* Pierre, with great difficvilty, clambered up the rocks, to a village, and procured me half a dozen eggs, with which he returned in tri- umph. But, alas ! two of them were addled, and a third had a chicken in it; which^ being a fad day, I could not in confcience cat. Saturday, we fet off at five o'clock, but were flopt, after having gone three or four miles, by a violent fog, which rendered the navigation dangerous among fo many rocks, (lioals and iflands. When this was difpelled, we foon teached Strudel, which is fituated in a wilder country than ever I faw in pafling the Alps. Here is the famous water-fall and whirlpool, which the Germans fo much dread, that they fay it is the habitation of SDcc ^eufclj however, they had talked fo much about it, that it appeared to me lefs formidable than I expedled. The fliooting London bridge is wprfe, though not attended with more noife. The company prayed and crolfed themfelves moft devoutly ; but though it may, efpecially in winter, be a very dangerous pafs in a boat ; ajnd though a raft may dip into the water, yet it TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 193 it covers fuch a furface, that it cannot poflibly either fmk or be overfet. Ips is a pretty town, with a new, hand- fome and large caferne, or barrack ; jnfh by it the country opens, and is very beautiful. Hereabouts they begin to make Auftrian wine : the white wine is a pretty, pleafant fort, but fmall. At Melk, on the right of the Danube, is a mod magnificent convent of Benedidines ; it fecms to cover two thirds of the town ; the architedure is beautiful, and it has the ap- pearance of being but lately built : here are vines all along the lliore, on the left hand. Harveft was quite got in hereabouts ; indeed there is but little appearance of agriculture in this wild country. I believed I remarked be- fore, that the quantity of ufelefs woods and forefls, in feveral parts of Germany, have a barbarous and favage appearance ; and, to fay the truth, except in the great trading towns, or thofe where fovereign princes refide, the Germans feem very rude and uncultivated. The country becomes more and more wild, as far as Stein. The rocks were often fo high, on each fide, as to prevent us from feeing the O fun 194 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. fun at two or three o'clock in the afternoon. At ^tein there is a wooden bridge of twenty- five or twenty- fix very wide arches, which leads to Krems, where the Jefuits have a mofl fumptuous college, beautifully fituated on a hill; it has more the appearance of a royal palace, than any thing that we can boaft of in England. Stein is on the left, and Krems on the right hand of the Danube, going down. Here our float anchored for the night, though it was but five o'clock : indeed it had not flopt, except early in the morning, for the fog, the whole day. We had now near fifty miles to Vienna ; and the fcoundrei irlofenictircrj or waterman, afiured me, and every body at Munich, that we fliould cer- tainly be there on Saturday night. Sunday, Auguft 30. This day w^as trifled away v/ithout getting to Vienna with the float, as I had been fully made to exped; ; an of- ficer on board, tried with me to procure a land carriage for that purpofe, but in vain. As we approached Vienna, the country be- came lefs favage. There are vineyards on the fides of all the hills and large iflands, innu- merable, which divides the Danube. I Tuln TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* 1 C) ^ Tuln is a little fortified town, with a fine church, and a fine convent, which, with a fine cuftom-houfe, ufually conflitute all the finery of Auftria. At Kor Neuburg, there is a very flrong citadel, on the fumrnit of an extreme high hill, which commands the river and city. At Nufdorf, a village within three miles of Vienna, with nothing in it but a church and a cufiom-houfe. I was quite out of patience, at being told, that the float could not, as ic was Sunday, on any account enter Vienna. It was now but five o'clock, and the feventh day of my being immured in a fty, where, indeed I might have grown fac if I had any thing to eat ; but that not being the cafe, hunger as well as lofs of time, made me very impatient to be releafed ; and after an hour loft in trying to procure a chaife, I at lafl got a miferable boat to carry me and my fervanc to Vienna. The defcription of a voyage to Vienna will moft probably determine you to proceed to that capital by land ; and in your way you may vifit the ancient city of Pafiau. O 2 From 196 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. From Munich to Brennau is ninety-two miles ; but the roads are by no means bad ; and byunng diligence you may perform it in a little more than fixteen hours. Brennau, is a town of lower Bavaria, fituat- ed on the river Hum; the buildings are mean and fad falling to decay; the befh inn is the lamb. From Brennau through Scherding, it is twenty-three miles to Paffau. Paflau is a very miferable, and, thofe parts only excepted which lie about the Danube, and near the refidence of the Prince, a very ill built town. It relies for fubfiftence on the court, (the income of which is eftimated at about 220, coo florins, or 22,oool.) and on the canons, whole benefices are fome of the fatteft in all Germany. A ftall here is fup- pofed to be worth more than 3000 florins per annum; whereas thofe of Saltfburg are not worth more than 2600. But befides this, it is to -be confidered that almoil every canon pof- fefTes two, three, or four prebends, and is a member of one or more of the chapters of Saltfburg, Auglburgh, Ratifbon, and other places ; fo that there are few canons in Ger- many TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I97 many whofe incomes are not more than 5000 florins per annum. The cathedral is a fine Gothic buildlno;, which well deferves to be feen. The jnrifdic- tion of the biihop, who is dependant only on the Pope, extends almoft to Vienna, but his authority in Auftria is already very m.uch li- mited. In time it will be confined to his own doors, as the imperial Court (to judge by what it has already done on the fide of Venice) leems determined to render its territory as in- dependent as may be, of all foreign fpiritual jurifdidiion. There are fine china manufac- tures and potteries in this country ; the pro- duce of the former is carried as far as the Rhine. Some writers upon Switzerland have con- tended, that the Danube rifes in this country, and not in Suabia. Their principal reafon for faying fo is, that where the Inn joins the Danube at this place, the firfh of thefe two ftreams has a greater body of water than the other. Suppofe for a moment the fad to be true, fbill it would be a difpute of words ; for who will refufe the public the privilege of calling a river by whatever name it pleafes ? O 3 Let 198 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Let it be called what it will at its fource, the river Brege in the Black Foreft, which when it meets the Danube is certainly much the largeft of the two, is nevertheiefs obliged to give up its name to it : — but the very plea on which the Swifs ground their pretenfions is only a deception. It is impoffible to take a very fmall part of any river from a given place for the full meafure of its greatnefs. The dif- ference of foil in the bed, a ftronger flream, and a variety of other circumftances, make the mafs of water in a river very different at different places. Here, when the Danube meets the Inn, the former is cramped up by hills ; whereas the other running free, is of courfe much wider. But the Danube con- tains far more water upon equal ground, and far above Ratifbon, before it has received the great rivers Allmuh, Nob, Regen, and Zier, is already a much mightier river than the Inn, which does not gain a great deal by the accef- fion of the very unfteady and irregular Saltza, betwixt Waffenburg and Infpruck. Without doubt, therefore, Suabia has the honour of being the birth place of the mighty Danube, with which only the Volga amongft the Eu- ropean TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. I99 ropean rivers can meafure itfelf. If you come now to compare the whole courfe of the two rivers (which join here,) from the fource to the place of meeting, the Inn, by reafon of its windings, certainly runs over more ground, but it is not to be compared with the Danube for width. Till it comes under Chuifllein the Inn flows in a very narrow valley ; whereas the Danube domineers overs the whole plain of Suabia and Bavaria. The Iller and the Lech, by having run into the Danube during a long way, foon become as confiderable as the Inn is at Innfpruck. This laft river being confined to a very narrow valley receives no nouriihment but from fmall ftreams ; whilft the Danube gathers all the fatnefs of one of the richell lands poffible in water, during a length of upwards of forty, and a breadth of twenty miles. The ilopes of the hills on the left fide of the Danube, betwixt this place and Ratifbon, promife a good place to plant the vine in, as they are well guarded from tiie noxious winds; and the wine, which is actually made in the country about PafTau, truly merits the name of wine. O4 This 20O TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. This large vale of the Danube, which at this place is covered to the right by the arm of Bavaria, and to the left by the Scyrian hills, produces likevvife the bed kind of corn. It would very eafily nourifh as many men again as it aftually does. Corn is often fo cheap in Bavaria, as Imrdly to pay the farmer for the trouble of raifing it : one hundred and feventy pounds of rye are frequently fold for about two florins. Navigation is by no means fo well under- flood in this country as it is upon the Upper Rhine ; they do not yet underftand how to fail according to the direction of the river. Moft of the vefTels which go by here come from Ratifbon and Ulm : they are without decks or mafts ; they are built only of fir boards, and are fold again either at Vienna or elfewhere. The Emperor has promifed great rewards to fuch mafters of vefTels as will build their veffels like thole on the Rhine ; but in this, as in every thing elfe, it is diffi- cult to make the mechanical part of the pub» lie tread the track they have not been accuf- tomed to. Thy TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 201 The fituation of Lintz, which is the capi- tal of this country, is extremely beautiful. From Schlofsberg, which is on the weft-fide of the city, you command a magnificent view of an immenfe plain to the right of the Danube. This is terminated to the fouth by the lofty hills of Styria, whofe heads often top the clouds. The city, which is on this fide the Danube, rifes diredly over againft you, like a magnificent amphitheatre. The femicircle of beautiful lijgh hills, by which ic is encompalTed, extend to the Danube. The deep white ground of thefe hills is thick covered with villages and houfes, and amidft the hanging woods on the fide, there ar3 fome caftles which make a very fine appear- ance. The majeftic Danube gives ftill more grandeur, life, and variety to this beautiful profped. The city is very handfome. It is built al- moft entirely of freeftone. There is fo much induftry, happinefs, and profperity, among the eleven thoufand inhabitants who dwell in it, as to make the Bavarian cities appear like fo many poor- houfes, in comparifon of it. There are feveral confiderable manufactures here. 202 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. here^ and the trade of the city is very exten- five. There is very good company to be met with amongft the numerous and polifhed no- bility, the officers who are conftantly quarter- ed here, and the feveral profefibrs of the place. The city is open on all fides. The nobility of the place chiefly confifb of fami- lies, whofe incomes are too fmall to allow of their living creditablv at Vienna. One ad- vantage, which ariles from this, is, that they abate much of the hauteur, which renders the converfation of the upper German nobili- ty in general fo unbearable. From Lintz, the principal towns you pafs through have been iketched in the voyage on the Danube, but by land you fee more the na- ture of the country, and you are ftruck with the farmers houfes, their clothing, their tools, and their agriculture in every relpecl fo far pre- ferable to Bavaria. Their looks, their well fed horfes, with their long brown but very neat coats, befpeak a degree of opulence. They are called here landers, inftead of farmers, and their numbers do great credit to the go- vernment. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 203 The belt place to flop at between Lintz and Vienna is Polten, where there is a toler- able inn kept by a German, who has a French wife. CHAP, 204 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. CHAP. III. Vienna — Buildings — Amiifements — Theatres - Society — Mllilary — Tour through Hungary- Pre/burg — Efterhazy, VIENNA I T has been obferved that Vienna on your approach to it bears a flrong relemblance to the city of Venice ; and it may from the Da- nube, but from land there is not the lead likenefs. That part which is properly called Vienna is not of very great extent, nor can it be enlarged, being limited by a ftrong forti- fication. This town is very populous, and thought to contain above feventy thoufand in- habitants. The ftreets in general are narrow and the houfes high : fome of the public buildings TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. '2.0^ buildings and palaces are magnificent, but they appear externally to no great advantage on account of the narrownefs of the ftreets. The chief are the imperial palace, the library and mufeum ; the palaces of the Princes Lichtenftein, Eugene, &c. There is no great danger that Vienna will ever again be fubje6l to a fiege ; yet in cafe the thing fliould happen, a meafure has been taken which will prevent the neceffity of burning the fuburbs. No houfes without the walls arc allowed to be built nearer to the glacis than fix hundred yards ; fo that there is a circular field of fix hundred paces broad all round the town, which exclulive of the advantage above- mentioned, has a very beautiful and falutary effed. Beyond the plain the fuburbs are built ; they form a very extenfive and magni- ficent town of an irregularly circular form, containing within its bofom a fpacious field, which has for its center the original town of Vienna. Thefe magnificent fuburbs and the town together, are faid to contain above three hundred thoufand inhabitants; yet the former are not near fo populous, in proportion to their 206 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. their iize, as the town ; becaufe many houfcs of the fuburbs have extenfive gardens belong- ing to them, and many families^ who live during the winter within the fortifications, pafs the fumtner months in the fuburbs. The iuburb' of Mariahaf is reckoned the mofl wholefome, and there you may be furniQi- ed with good apartments ; at the rate of about eighteen (liiilings each per month. The houfes confift of five and fix fhories ; but within the walls the fecond flory of every houfe belongs to the court, "and is tenanted by its fervants. Vienna it is fuppofed ftands nearly upon as much ground as Paris ; it takes two hours to go from the fuburb of Wieden to the end of the fuburb of Leopold, which is larger than the town, and parted from it only by a fmall arm of the Danube. The going from the fuburb RofTaw to the end of the fuburb Land- ftraffe, takes up about another half hour. The fuburbs beft inhabited are the RolTaw, the Jofephftadt, St. Ulrich, Mariahaf, a part of the Wieden and the Leopold ftadt. The largeft of them all after the Leopoldfladt, is the Wieden. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 20/ The emperor*s palace is an old black build- ing, that has neither beauty nor flatelinefs. It is a great mafs of done, which was built feven ftories high, in order to contain as many inhabitants as poffible. The greateft thoroughfare is from the emperor's palace over the Coal-market, the Graben, the Stock- ameifenplafs, and through the Carnthner- flraffe. In all thefe places, particularly in the narrow and irregular Stockameifenplafs, the thoroughfare is as great, and the motion as lively, as in any fhreet of London or Paris, The ftream of this great concourfe reaches as as far as Leopoldfgate, and throughout the whole of the high ftrect of the fuburb of Leopold. It is fomewhat fingular that there are no good inns at Vienna ; there are however few places where you make better cheer. There is an infpedlor for the vegetables and another for the meat, and fo on for all the provifidns on fale ; and if they are not found perfectly good they are flung away. Not- withftanding this reflraint every thing is very moderate in its price ; at the common tables of the people of a middling rank, fuch as the lower !208 TOUR THROUGH GERxMANY. lower fervants of the court, merchants, ar- tifts, and the better kinds of mechanics, you commonly fee five or fix difhes with three or four kinds of wine. You have tolerable wine for common drinking at five cruetzers a bot- tle, and may dine very well for about ten pence a head. There is a traiteur, who for about feven pence furniQies a table d'hote, confiding of vegetables, broiled meat, a pud- ding, or roafted calf's liver and beef; the bread and a gill of wine are included. There are here feme nobles of very confider- able fortunes. Prince Francis Lichtenflein, the elder branch of that f^imily^ has at leaft 900;,co3 florins, or near an hundred thoufand a year. In Moravia only he has twenty eftates, which con- fifl. of twenty or thirty villages each. Prince Efterhazy, alfo has upwards of 6oo,coo guild- ers a year, and Prince Schwertzenberg above 400,000. Notwithdanding, however, thefe vaft reve- nues, moil of the great houfes are in debt, which may be very eafily accounted for ; as in other countries, feme one favourite luxury or other has the afcendant, here they all reign ; nor is there any fpecies of them you can name, either TOUR TliROUGH GERMANY. 209 either horfes, fervants, the pleafures of the table, play, or drefs, but what is carried to the utmoft cxcefs. Here are feveral flables of fifcy, fixty, or more horfes ; whoever has an eflate of fifty or fixty thoufand florins, muil have from twenty- four to thirty horfes 5 and it Is a moderate efta- blllhment, which confifts only of a maitre d'hotel, a fecretary, two valet de chambre, two running footmen, one or two huntfinen, two coachmen^ five or fix footmen, and a porter. The houfes of Lichtenflein, Efberhazy, Schwartzenberg, and fome others, keep fifty footmen, befide which, the two former have a body guard. A fingle plate of fuit often cofbs, from fixty to feventy florins. It is common to give from thirty to forty thoufand florins for a lady's drefs ; and though hazard is forbidden, there are feve- ral games at which you may lofe from fifteen to twenty thoufand florins at a fitting. The' arts enjoy litde from the riches of this place ; almoft all the palaces and gardens befpeak nothing but a taflelefs profufion ; and as to col- ledlions of pi6tures, there are none to be ihtn but the Lichtenflein gallery, that deferves any notice. It is true, indeed, that this may {land in the place of many ; it confifls of fix hundred P pieces 2IO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. pieces by the bcft mafters, and is divided into twelve rooms, which have a magnificent appear- ance, but then this is all that is to be feen be- fides the imperial colledlion. Among Prince Lichtenfteines picftures, a Sal- macis in the water by Albano, is reckoned the beft work of that m after. There is alfo the hiftory of Decius, by Rubens ; a beautiful St. Sebaftian, by Vandyke ; and a girl playing on the guitar, by Caravagio. In the imperial gallery, are a David Teniers of Abraham offering up Ifaac ; a Pordenone re- prefenting Santa Juftina, and his Centurion at Cremona ; and a Sigifmunda, by Furlna. The imperial cabinet of medals hath fcarce its equal in the world ; there are twenty-two thou- fand ancient coins ; the modern coins are ex- tremely valuable ; likewife a very valuable, and to thofe who wifli to ftudy the hiftory of the middle ages, a very precious part of this collec- tion, is, that which confifts of all the coins and medals from Charlemagne to this time. The thought was Charles the Vlth's, but the collec- tion owes its exiftence to the emperor Francis, who laid out great fums upon it. There are alfo feveral other rich collections of natural hiftory, mathe- tOUR THROtJGl! CERMAKt* 211 mathematical inftruments, &c. &c. and, thefe like every thing the court pofTefTes, are open to every body, without the leaft trouble. But the library is one of the moft precious in the world. It confifts of more than three hundred thoufand volumes, twelve thoufand of which are valuable manufcripts. The building in which they are preferved is one of the handfomeft in the town. It is open every morning till twelve o'clock, for all perfons who choofe to come. They are fijrnifhed with tables, chairs, pen, ink, and paper; a fecretary looks in the catalogue for the books wanted, which are immediately taken down from the (helves by Ibme livery fervants belonging to the court. There are fires in the room all the winter. None of the fervants arc allowed to take any thing. When once you are acquainted with the librarians, one of whom is always in a room adjoining, it is not fo difficult to obtain prohibited books as has been pre- tended. Mufic is the only thing for which the nobility fhew a tafte; feveral of them have private bands of muficians, and all the public concerts attefl, that this branch of the arts is in the greateft tftcem here. You may bring together four or P 2 five 212 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. five large orchcftras, which arc all incomparable. The number of private virtuofi is fmall, but there is no finer orchellra of mufic in the world. Thirty or forty inftruments may be heard to play together, all which gave fo jufl, fo clear, and foprecife a found, that you would have thought you heard only a fingle very ftrong in- ftrument; a fingle ftroke gave life to all the vio- lins, and a fingle blaft to all the wind inftru- ments. There are about four hundred mu- ficians here, who divide themfelves into parti- cular focieties, and often labour together during a long courfe of years. On a particular day of the year they have a general concert for the benefit of muficians widows. One of the moft pleafing fights to be feen here is that of the lemonade booths in the iummer evenings. They put up a large tent in fome of the public parts of the town, round it are feveral hundred ftools, which are occu- pied by the ladies and gentlemen of the place. At fome diftance there is a band of mufick ; the wonderful mufick, the feflive filence, and the familiarity which night difFufes over every thing, have all of them an unfpeakable good effedl;. . To TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. dlj To fee the equipages of Vienna, you mufi: go to a firework on the Prater in the fummer^ time. The Prater is a wood of oaks and beaches, on an illand of. the Danube, near the city. Towards the entrance, under the trees, there are about thirty tents, furniflied with chairs and tables, in which you meet with all kinds of re- frefhments. The place is conflantly reforted to by day; but to fee it in its fplendour, you mud go to a fire-work ; about twelve thoufand peo- ple alTemble and take their fupper under the trees. Towards the entrance of the night, on a given fignal, they flock to the meadow, fur- rounded with high trees, in which the fpeftacle is exhibited. Diredly oppofite to the firework is a magnificent ampltheatre filled v/ith feveral hundreds of laaies, whofe high painted cheeks, rich jewels, and light funnmer clothes, have an unfpeakable good efFe6l, The pit, betwixt the amphitheatre and the firework, is filled as full as it can hold with men. At the conclufion of the feflival a mofl extraordinary figh.t takes place ; a row, of from twelve to fifteen hundred coaches, phaetons, and other four wheeled equi^ pages, goes from the wood to the ciiy, in fo dired and clofe a line, that when they flop, the P 3 beam 214 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. beam of the hinder carriages are clofe upon the cheft of the fore ones ; the confequence of which is, that as they go only in full trot, or gallop, many of the carriages are broke, and the people in them expofed to the utmoft danger: moll of thefe are gentlemen's coaches, with four, or fix horfes to them ; the number of thefe in this place, are at leaft three thoufand five hundred ; there are about five hundred hackney coaches, and about three hundred coaches that are let out. Notwithftanding the number of equipages on this occafion, there is hardly ever the leaft dif- order , the foot-paffengers have their road, which no coachman dares to break in upon. The bridge betwixt the fuburb of Leopold and the Prater, in which the prefTure is ftrongeft, is di- vided into four parts ; the two outermoft of thefe are for the foot-paffengers, and the innermoft for the coaches j that is, one for thofe who are go- ing from, and another for thofe who are com- ing to the city. This order is kept up through the wood and on the chaujie in the fuburb, till you come to the city, and fome cuirajfteres ride to and fro with drawn fabres, to fee that the order be obferved. There is no inftance of an accident having happened at the time of a fefti-r vityj TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 21 5 vity; all the cafualdes that take place through the negle6t of coachmen, happen in the daily bufinefs of the city ; there are, however, fel- dom above fix or feven people driven over in a year. The common people of this capital were for- merly defirous of more fanguinary amufe- ments, as will be feen by the following bill: " This day, by imperial licence, in the great *' amphitheatre, at five o'clock will begin the " following diverfions. *Mft. A wild Hungarian ox, in fijU fire, " (that is, with fire under his tail, and crackers " faftened to his ears and horns, and to otlier '^ parts of his body), will be fet upon by dogs. " 2d. A wild boar will, in the fame manner, *^ be baited by dogs. " 3d. A great bear will, immediately after, " be torn by dogs. " 4th. A wolf will be hunted by dogs of the « fleetefl kind. " 5th. A very furious and enraged w^ild bull " from Hungary, will be attacked by fierce and " hungry dogs. " 6th. A frefh bear will be attacked by Jiounds. 7th. Will appear a fierce wild boar, jull P 4 " caught fC 2l6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. " caught, which will now be baited for the firft " time, by dogs defended with iron armour. " 8th. A beautiful African tyger. ' " 9th. This will be changed for a bear. " loth. A frelh and fierce Hungarian ox. ^' nth. And iaflly, a furious and hungry bear, '' which has had no food for eight days, will at- " tack a young wild bull, and eat him alive up- " on the fpot ; and if he is unable to complete ^^ the bufinefs, a wolf will be ready to help him.'* The Augarten is likewife one of the fummer amufements, at v/hich you may meet with all the fine world. This is a large park, which fhands in the fam.e ifland of the Danube as the Prater does, and is to the eaftof its it is a work of the Emperor Jofeph, who, as the infcription over the door fcates, has opened it, as a friend of mankind, for a place of .relaxation to all mankind. It is, however, vifited only by the higher orders \ the people who fee it is not made for them, voluntarily exclude themfelves : it is aflonifning in how fhort a time this park is be- come what it is. Though there are a great va- riety of different trees and fhrubs, and the walks have ail the beauties that one can defire, there h ^ regularity and uniformity in the whole, which makes TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 217 makes it like a true Englifli garden. A very broad arm of the Danube, which wafhcs its banks, gives it a great deal of life. The moft pleafing profpe6l in the whole, is that of a large forefl in perfpe6live, v>/hich has been cut through on the other fide of the river, and is bounded by the diilant hills of Moravia, which flit about it like light clouds. There is a mag- nificent pavilion, in which is a billiard-table and refrefhments of all kinds. Thole who wifh to fee this place in full beauty, muft vifit it in the height of fummer in the morning. The cuftom has prevailed for fome years pad, of coming here to drink mineral waters ^ diefe, it is true, are fetched from upwards of a hundred miles diftance, and can therefore do no great good, nor is there any need of it, for the invalids are moft of them very well, and only come here to en- joy the eafe and freedom which obtain at Spa, Pyrmont, and other water-drinking places. Here all ranks, particularly the noblefie and the li- terati mix together; the ladies drink thai they may fnew themfelves in negliges^ and the men drink becaufe the ladies are not fo fliff in negliges as they are when full dreffed. There are feveial other places of public re- fort in this town 3 that which is moil generally vifited 11^ TOUR THROFGH GERMANY, vifitcd is the Rampart, which, though expofed to a very warm fun, is almoft always full. The middling people cannot go to church in the af- ternoon, without taking a turn round the Ram- part, which takes them np an hourj thofe of higher ranks walk to fhew their dogs, which in this place only are fafe from horfes and carriages. Dogs are a great article of luxury here ; the fine folks endeavour to outdo each other in them ; at prefent the litde Pomeranian breed is all the mode; one of them either fnow white, or coal black, and with a Iharp fnout, will fetch from ten to fifteen ducats. Twenty-five du- cats have been given for one ; every man who fets up at all for ton, muft have his fpilTchen, which is here the proper name of this dog. The pcafants, who are the better for this folly, have built a dog-market adjoining to the poultry-market. The garden of the Belvedere in the fuburb of Rennevig, formerly in the pofTefTion of prince Eugene, is likewife at prefent a pub- lic walk ; the garden has nothing particular about it ; but the palace, both on account of its builder, and its admirable fituation, is one of the moil remarkable places in the town ; TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 219 town ; from the balcony on the terrace, you command a view over the whole town, and all the country round. Some years ago the imperial pidures were moved hither ; the gal- lery confifts of twenty- two large rooms ; the lower ftory is tenanted entirely by Italian mailers. The beft pidlure is a Cupid in the a6t of drawing his bow, by Corregio. It was bought for 18, GOO ducats, by the Emperor Charles VI. but with many other pidures had been entirely negleded and trodden under foot, fo that part of it was entirely fpoilt, but what remains is Corregio ftill. The up- per ftory is tenanted by the Flemi(h mafters, who, as in duty bound, do not keep compa- ny with the Italians. The gallery is open to every body three days in the week. About a mile and a half from the city, in a fenny hollow, you meet with Schonbrum, formerly the fummer refidence of the Emprefs Maria Therefa, but where the confined prof- ped, and bad air, will not induce a long ftay. The palace is immenfe, built in a truly great ftile ; the furniture, too, is truly imperial ; there is one room furnilhed with tapeftry from the Gobelins, that coft 300,000 3 guilders ; 210 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. guilders ; here too is the menagerie of wild beafts, fo delightfully fung by Metaftafio. The mod remarkable was a true elephant of the large breed from India ; it was fent as a prefent from the Stadtholder, who gave IO5O00 guilders for it. On an eminence behind the palace the Emperor has built 2i fa- la terrena in the ancient ftyle, with two rows of pillars on each fide. This points out the fpot where his mother fhould have built, if Ihe had chofen to have had a fine profpedt and good air. When the Emprefs is here, fhe fees only capuchins and old court ladies. This is likewife a place of public amufement, as the garden is always open, as is the palace alfo, at all fuch times as the Emprefs is not there. The Kalteberg, which lies on the Danube, about three miles from the city, pleafes in^ finitely more ; the way to it is through a wonderfully well cultivated country. At fome diftance to the left, on the flope of the hill, and under fome very old oaks, you fee field marfhal Lacy's elegant villa, with his Engliih garden. By degrees you gain a thick foreft on the brow of the hill ,* on the top of thi$ flands TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 221 ftands the Camaldeuleufe convent, in the fineft point of view you can imagine. Under fome trees before the convent, are a table and fome benches, where the ladies, who cannot vifit the infide of the monaftery, with- out fpecial permifiion from the archbilTiop, are entertained till their friends return. Eve- ry monk has his own feparate hut, with a lit- tle garden belonging to it. To the outer cell there is a terrace, which looks over a perpendicular precipice into the Danube, and commands a profped: of which a monk of this fort is quite unworthy. You have the whole city like a ground plot under your feet ; yoa think you hear the conftant hum in it, and your eye carries you over this part of Auftria, as far as to the borders of Hungary and Moravia. The majeftic Danube winds through an im- menfe plain ; at fome diftance it confiderably widens, and being covered with no woods or elevations, cafts a filver appearance on the landfcape. To your right, the wood crown- ed hill you are upon, gradually decreafes to the fuburbs, whilft to the left it ftretches its high neck along the Danube, to where, at three miles diftance, you fee the golden hill 4 of 222 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. of Enferfdorf, which produces one of the beft Auftrian wines. The numberlefs fine villages, the blue hills fwimming on the ho- rizon, and all the various afpeds of wood and water, diffufe a delight, which you may tafte, but which it is impoflible to defcribe. The German theatre is lofty, having five or fix rows of boxes, twenty-four in each row. The height makes it feem fhort, yet at the firfl glance it is very ftriking ; it might be better lighted ; but the fcenes and decorations are fplendid. The flage has the appearance of being oval, which whether it is produced by deception or reality, has a pleafing eflfedl as it correfponds with the other end of the theatre which is rounded off at the corners, and gives an elegant look to the whole. The French theatre is not fo high as the German, but it is ftill better fitted up ; here the befl places feem to be in the pit, which is divided in two parts, and all the feats are ftuffed, and covered with red baize. Three large boxes are taken out of the front of the firft row for the imperial family, which goes frequently to this theatre. The fcenes are feldom TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 223 feldom changed during the piece; but the principal, that is, the fcene of longed conti- iiuance, is fiat in front, where there are two large folding doors, as in the French theatres, for the entrance and exit of the principal charaders. At each fide there is an elegant projedion, in the middle of which there is iikewife a door, ufed chiefly by the fervants, ;and inferior charaders. The comedy is often too grofly farcical ; but there are fcenes, as well as charadlers, of real humour, and one or two of the Comedie larmoyante kind, that were truly pathetic. The opera is performed alternately in the German and French theatre, the admiilion is at a very eafy rate ; twenty- four creuzers only are paid for going into the pit; in which, however, there are feats with backs to them. A creuzer here, is hardly equal to an Englifli halfpenny ; indeed, part of the front of the pit is railed off, and is called the amphi- theatre; for placf.s there, the price is doubl- ed, none are to be had for money, except hi the pit and the flips, which run all along the top of the houfe, and in which only fixteen creuzers are paid. The boxes are all let by the 224 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the (eafon to the principal families, as is the cuftom in Italy. The fize of this theatre may be nearly ima- gined, by comparing with any one of our own, the number of boxes and feats in each. There are in this five ranks of boxes, twenty four in each : in the pit there are twenty- feven rows of feats, which feverally contains twenty-four perfons. There is but little converfation among the men, and it is the women who animate fo- ciety. It is common for the hufbands to re- main filent, while their wives and daughters keep up the converfation with great cheerful- nefs. It is very true, that their fund confifts only of the news of the day, but the news gives rife to remarks, and remarks give rife to obfervations and debates that often prove very interefting ; with the men there is not even this refource. The women of this place are handfome and well made, but they have no colour, and their faces are not interefting. They are eafy and lively in their motions, their gait, and their fpeech. They are more compofed, more de- termined, and more manly than the French women ^ TOrK THROUGH GERMANY. 22^ women, but not fo heroic as the English. A better idea cannot be given of them, than by telling you they are between French and En- glifli. There are no great beauties here, nor any very ugly women* They have not yet imitated the French in their winter-drefs, which continues to be of polanaifes, trimmed with very expenfive furs, which reach down to the feet. As thefe drefles have no high pockets, are open at the bread, and fall eafily about the lower part of the body, they are favourable to the ihape, and remind us of the Greek fimplicity. A tinge of fuperflition peculiar to the women of this place, is united to great fenfibility of heart, and rather tends to increafe, than to reprefs love, friendOiip, and benevolence. Dr. Moore informs us, that taking up in a lady's houfe a book which lay upon the table, a fmall pifture of the Virgin Mary on vellum fell from between the leaves; under the figure of the virgm there was the following infcription : This is prefented by — ■ ■ to her dear- eft friend in token of the fmccreft regard and affedion ; begging that as often as (he beholds this figure of the bleffed Vir- Q. gin, 226 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. gin, fhe may mix a fentiment of affedtion for her abfent friend, with the emotions of gra- titude and adoration fhe feels for the mother of Jefus. The Cicifbeat is upon the fame footing here as in Italy ; it fubfifts amongft the great as a mode that has been once eflablifhed ; the poor take it up as a matter of trade ; and it is only amongft the merchants and manufactu- rers that you meet with any inftances of jea- loufy. The following is a droll inftance of the effedls of this, which took place fome years ago. A man of fafhion having been rather too frequent in his vifits to a rich tradefman's wife ; the hufband, who was dif- pleafed with the intcrcourfe, took the follow-- ing method of putting a ftop to it : one morning, when he knew the lovers were to- gether, he ordered all his fervants to be in waiting with flambeaux on the flairs ; he then flepped into the room, and told his excellen- cy, that his fervants were come to light him home ; the other was exceedingly furprifed, but affeded not to underftand him; upon which the merchant immediately took him by the arm, and led him very ceremonioufly down TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* 227 do\Vn ftairs ; here the fervants, armed with their flambeaux, furrounded him on all fides, and led him into the middle of the flreet in broad day light; the tradefman in the> mean time ftanding upon the fteps of his houfe making bow upon bow, and under the pretence of recommending himfelf to the no- bleman's cuftom, fliouting out his name as loud as he could. But among the great it is common for married ladies to avow an at- tachment to men who are not their hufbands, without hurting their reputation. I, fays Dr. Moore, one evening at the Count Thune's, when there was a pretty numerous company, I obferved one lady uncommonly fad, and enquired of her intimate friend, who happened to be there alfo, if (he knew the caufe of this fadnefs ? — I do, replied (he; Mr. de , whom (he loves very tenderly, ought to have been here a month ago ; and laft night (he received a letter from him, in- forming her that he cannot be at Vienna for a month to come. But pray, faid J, does your friend's hufband know of this violent pafTion flie has for Mr. de ? Yes, yes, anfwer- €d (he, he knows it, and enters with the moffc 0^2 gender 228 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. tender fympathy into her afflidion ; he does all that can be expeded from an affedionate hufband to comfort and foothe his wife, af- furing her that her love will wear away with time. But fhe always declares that (he has no hopes of this, becaufe fhe feels it augment every day. — Mais, au fond, continued the lady, cela lui fait bien de la peine, parcequc malheureufemcnt il aime fe femme a la folie. Et fa femme, qui eft la meilleure creature du monde, plaint infiniment fon pauvre mari ;/ car elle a beaucoup d'amitie et d'eftime pour iui ; — mais elle ne fcauroit fe defaire de cette malheureufe paflion pour Monf. de . You feldom hear however, of any extraor- dinary inftances of impropriety and indecen- cy in this place. Confidering the ftate of the country, it is not extraordinary, that a taftc for pleafure fliould be fo prevalent as it is, it having certainly more food here than any where elfe. The number of poor is much fmaller than at Paris, and, probably, than at London. Every thing, even the clothing of the loweft fervant-maid, befpeaks a great de- gree of affluence. The prodigality of the higher nobility, the many, and great ap- pointmentsi TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 229 pointments paid by the court, and the exten- five commerce of the middling claffes, great- ly affifts the circulation of money. The con- flant circulation of the town is eftimated at twelve million of imperial guilders, or i2,oooL fterling. The commerce of this country is now ex- tremely flouriihing ; but it was a long time before the Auftrians knew how to enjoy the advantages which nature had provided them with. Notwithftanding they were mafters of one of the largeft rivers in the world, which carries (hips upwards of feventy German miles before it comes to them, and afterwards opens them a way into the Levant and Black Sea ; there was no fpirit of trade among them till the laft Emperor's time. It is true, Charles Sixth had done what he could to promote this fpirit throughout the whole of his dominions, but though his attempts had been fuccefsful in other places, he met with a difappointment in the dutchy of Auflria and the capital, for the nobility of thefe places ftill confidered merchants as a kind of brute beafts ; and the jefuits kept the proteftants, who, in the fe- quel, did moil for indufhry, either entirely 230 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. at a diflance, or were fure to crufh them, when they found means to creep in. The court, in fhort, contraded many debts, and its credit grew too weak, to afford any fub- flantial fupport to thofe who needed its aflif- tance. The Emperor Francis, having re- ftored the finances, was himfelf a merchant, and by degrees the nobility began to look upon the induftrious merchant with a fome- what lefs degree of contempt. Still, how- ever, a great deal was referved for the Em- peror Jofeph, whofe popularity, and averfion to old prejudices, were in no inftance more confpicuous than in this. He introduced in- genious artifts and merchants into the firft fo- cieties.. It is true, indeed, that thofe who think all merit confifts in birth and external appearance, negledted nothing to make the plebeian feel he is out of his element ; but a word from the monarch fet all to rights, and the more the noblelTe difturbed themfelves, the more Jofeph was fure to take opportuni- ties of humbling their pride. Some years ago, when he was at Prague, he came into a large company, leading a citizen's wife by the hand ; all the ladies immediately began 4 to TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 23-I' to ftare, but he took no farther notice of it, than by going down with her the only dance he danced. After all, commerce would not be very flou- rifhing, had not the clogs it was under, when the monarch's confefTor was the diredor of all the departments in the flate, been taken off, and were it not moftly in the hands of ftrangers. The facility with which fo many foreign fa- milies make large fortunes, is a public and llriking inflance of how much they furpafs the natives in adlivity and underftanding. The baron de Fries, the court banker, a Mhul- haufe by birth, who had no capital^ has be- come in an incredible fhort time, one of the firft bankers in Europe. He is worth at leaft four millions of guilders. Mofh of the principal manufadurers and merchants come from Suabia, Franconia, Saxony, and other parts of Germany. The citizens of Nuren- berg, Aufburg, Ulm, Lindaw, and other cities, met here wdth a refuge from the tyran- ny, which every day more and more obtains in their own countries. Mod of them have made their fortunes by good fenfe, induftry, and efpecially by that frugality which fo ef^ QL4 fentially 1^2 TOUR THROUGH GERIVTANY* fentially diftinguifhes them from the natives. Their is no doubt, but that the ftrangers, and efpecially the proteftants, will likewifd make a flouriihing place of Triefte. With all this, however, trade is ftill far below what it might be ; but it makes great ftrides every day. It is faid, there are al- ready above a hundred filk weavers looms in the place. There are alfo plufh and cotton manufadures, and foreign trade is carried ori with Auftrian and Hungarian wines, Bohe- mian and Moravian linens (which go by Triefte into Italy, Spain, Portugal, and Tur- key), wrought and unwrought iron, fteel and copper, leather, china, and other articles ; thefe produce feveral millions. All this the government proteds fo heartily, that it has always a fund ready for the encouragement of the enterprizing and difcrete projecftor. This fund it lends out without intereft, for five, fix, or even ten years, after which it receives intereft gradually from one to two or three per cent. I (hould not have faid fo much of Hun- gary, had I not recollecVed, that you confidef" it as an unknown country. What I have to % Tp-tTR THROUGH GERMANY, ^33 fay of the other parts of the hereditary domi- nions of the Houfe of Auftria will be fo much the fhortcr. Auitria, properly fo called, has through- out the appearance of a happy country ; here are no figns of the ftriking contrail betwixt poverty and riches. All the inhabitants, thofe of the capital only excepted, enjoy that Jiappy mediocrity, which is the confequence of a gentle and wife adminiftration. The farmer has property ; and the rights of the nobility, who enjoy a kind of lower judicial power, are well defined. The fouth and fouth-wefl parts of the country are bounded by a ridge of hills, the inhabitants of which enjoy a fliare of profperity, unknown to thofe of the interior parts of France. You may fee feveral villages on the banks of the Danube, whofe inhabitants dwell in ftone houfcs. A fure fign of their well-being, is their eating meat almoft every day, and roaft meat once or twice a week. There are many villages 'and market towns, the inhabitants of which have bought themfelves off from valTakge, are now their own governors, and belong fome of them to the eftates of the country ; ' amongft 234 TOUR THROrC^ GfRMAKY. amongft thefe is the beautiful town of StO€« keraw, about which is one of the prettieft countries that can be feen. Lower Auftria yearly exports more than two millions worth of guilders of wine to Moravia, Bohemia, Upper Auftria, Bavaria, Saltzburg, and part of Styria and Carinthia. This wine is four, but has a great deal of ftrength, and may be carried all over the world without danger ; when it is ten or twenty years old it is very good. Notwith- flanding this, however, all this trade would be knocked up at a blow, if the exportation of the Hungary wines was not reftrained by fevere prohibitions. It is an ancient law, that the peafant (hall introduce no alterations on his eftate. He is not allowed to root up his vines and turn his his land to tillage or pafture. There is no doubt, but this extraordinary law took its rife from the tithes paid to the clergy ; as thefe were always to be paid in kind, they of courfe op- pofed every degree of alteration. Were the law now to be altered, many eftates would cer- tainly lofe a great deal by it, but others would beincreafed in proportion; forinflance, agreat number TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 11* ~DJ number of the faffron fields, the cuhivation of which is always tronblefome and expenfive, would be turned to other and better purpofes. Even in Krems, where the bed faffron grows, the inhabitants complain exceedingly of being obliged to cultivate this commodity. There are likewife feveral other articles, fuch as flax, hemp, tobacco, and the like, which the farmer might grow were it not for this prohibition, which alfo prevents him from taking the advantage of the markets, and va- rying the produce of his land in proportion as the value of the things changes. With re- gard to agriculture itfelf, every fpecies of prohibition is detrimental ; all that the legif- lature has to do is to remove natural obftacles; when this is done nature will do the refl of herfelf. This country is very well peopled. Mr. SchlofTer, in his political journal, which contains an account of the population of Auf- tria, eftimates that of this country at 2,100,000 men. . This eflimate feems much too large ; but the fad: is, that partly from the ignorance, a^d partly from the pride of people here, who love to fvvell and magnify every thing that belongs to the country, it is extremely difficult 23^ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. difficult to get at the truth. A ftrangcr, however, who has been here fome time, and has ftudied whatever belongs to the country very accurately, has ailerted that the popula- tion of Upper and Under Auflria together did not amount to more than 1,800,000 men. If you include the inhabitants of the capital in the number, ftill this will be a very confider- able population. The revenue of this country is about 14,000,000 of florins, of which the city of Vienna contributes above five, as one man in the capital earns as much as three in the country. The fouthern parts of Auftria are covered with hills, which rife gradually from the banks of the Danube to the borders of Stiria, and are covered with woods. They lofe themfelves in the mafs of mountains which run to the fouth of Germany, and flretch through all Stiria, Carniola, Carinthia, and Tyrol, to the Swifs Alps, and are probably after Savoy and Switzerland^ the highefl part of the earth. The inhabitants of this extenfive ridge of mountains are all very much alike, they are a arong. TOtJR Tk4R0U0H GERMANY. 2^f flrohg, large, and, the goitres excepted, a Very handfome people. The people of Ty- rol, diftinguifli themfelves by their diligence. Some drive a trade with figures made of ftuc- co as far as Holland ; others make works in ftone and wood for the churches; another part of them travel through Germany with Italian wares and fruits, and bring home a large quantity of money. A fourth fet deals in quack drugs, falves, wonder-workmg pills, eiTences, tindures, &c. Notwithflanding its woods and the hills covered with fnow, Tyrol is well inhabited and well peopled. It contains about fix hun- dred thoufand fouls, and pays the ftate about three millions of florins. The fdver and cop- per works at Schwafs are one of the mod pro- fitable things in the Emperor's hereditary do- minions, and the fait works at Halle yield annually about three hundred thoufand florins. Infpruck is a fine city, containing fourteen thoufand inhabitants. BoiTen is the mofb con- fiderable after this. They had formerly very fine fairs, but thefe have been entirely ruined by the cuftcms ; all Tyrol complains of, and cur/es the cuftoms. 2 The S^8 TOUR TfJR0u6H GERMANY- ■J The Carlnthians excel rhe other inhabitants of thefe mountains in flrength and fize. They are like their horfes, which are reckoned the flrongeft in Europe, and never tire. Their bread is made of maize ; and their land pro- duces the befi: ftcel known, which the Englifh ufe for their fineft works. The population confifts of four hundred thoufand fouls. The inhabitants of Carinthia, Gortz, and the Auf- trian Iftria, may be fet at five hundred thou- fand. Stiria contains about feventy thoufand inhabitants. Gratz, the capital, is a fine city ; there are perfons in it who have from thirty to forty thoufand florins income, and the luxury that prevails is not to be defcribed. The country is cultivated to the top of the higheft hills. Though paflurage is the prin- cipal bulinefs of the people, the land pro- duces corn enough to nourilh its numerous inhabitants, or if there is ever the lead want, they are fupplied from Hungary almoft for nothing. The flax and hemp, which have been introduced here, as well as in Carinthia, are extremely good, and produce very large fums. The mines employ a great number of people, and as they are worked very cheap ^ anfwer TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 239 anfwer extremely well. Indeed the whole of the country is favourable to this kind of bufi- nefs. The hills are covered with wood, which in general coflis no more than the expence of cuttingdown and tranfportingtothe place where it is to be ufed in the furnaces. Sometimes too it is floated by the rivers without any ex- pence of tranfporting at all. The numerous brooks in the valleys afford opportunities of eredling the furnaces near the pits, fo that every thing contributes to fave expence. The befl: mineral of the country is iron, of which they make an excellent fleel. All the inhabitants of thefe hills are free- men, who have long fince fhaken off the feudal yoke, under which the greateft part of Europe ftill groans. The marks of their freedom are very vifible, for, ill as this coun- try has been treated by nature, in comparifon with its- neighbour Hungary, it is every where much better cultivated, and more populous than the latter. When you fee the farmer here force his nourilhment from the almoft bare rocks, and think of the beautiful plains in Hungary that lay wafte and uncultivated, the value of property and liberty ftrikes you in «40 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY^ in its full force. Thefc countries and Auftria are not half as large as Hungary, and yet they not only yield a much greater i-evcnuc than that does, but there is an appearance of eafy c i re uni (lances throughout, of which the Hungarians have no notion. The Auftrian troops make a fine appear* ance, and the army in general arc more judi- cioully clothed than the Prufiians; for inftead of coats with long fkirts, their uniform is (hort jackets of white cloth, with waiftcoats and breeches of the fame ; and each foldier has a furtout of coarfe grey cloth, which he wears in cold or rainy weather. This he rolls up in very fmall bulk when the weather is good, and it is little or no incumbrance on a march. They have fhort boots for flioes, and in place of hats they wear caps of very flout leather with a brals front, which ufually Hands up, but which may be let down on oc- calion to prevent their eyes from being incom- moded with the fun. The foldiers are fup- plied with every article of clothing from the public ware-houfes ; when their i"hoes, {lock- ings, &:c. are worn out, they produce them before the commiffary and are immediately pro- vided totjR THROUGH Germany. 241. vlded with new ones. The prefenc emperor has increafed their pay ; and having been ini- tiated by his uncle Jofeph to a camp, pays great attention to the military. Except a very few Hungarians v/ho do duty within the palace, there are no troops in the Auftrian fervice with increafed pay and ex- clufive privileges, under the denomination of body guards. The marching regiments on the ordinary eftablifhment form the garrifon of Vienna, and perform the duty of guards by rotation. The Auftrian army is calculated at two hundred and eighty thoufand ; and it is ima- gined, that there never was a greater number of excellent officers in the fervice than at prefent. The lad: TurlciOi war has formed them to action. From Vienna^ you will probably chu^e to vifit Prefburg, the capital of Hungary, to vAv.ch it is only four pods and an half, or forty-one miles, and the journey might be performed in little more than fix hours. The roure is as follows : Fifchemet — 2 poRs Teufch Aitenbuig i | P^efburg — I R Prefburg, '-^ \2 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Prcfburgj like Vienna, has fuburbs more magnificent than itfelf 5 in this city the States of Hungary hold their aiTemblies, and in the cathe- dral church, the Sovereign is crowned. The Emprefs Maria ThereHi took refuge here, when the Ele<5lor of Bavaria was declared Emperor at Fiague -, the caRle is feated on a J)ill which overlooks the Danube, and the plains around to a vaft extent. It is a noble Go- thic building, of a fquare form, with a tov/er at each corner. The regalia of Hungary, confiit^ ing of tliQ crown and fceptre of St. Stephen, the firfl king, are depofited here. Thefe are care- fully fccured by feven locks, the keys of which are kept by the fame number of Hungarian noblemen. No prince is held by the populace 2s legally their Sovereign, till he be crowned widi die diadem of king Stephen, and they have a notion that the fate of their union de- pends on this crown remaining in their polTef- Jion; it has therefore been always removed in times of danger to places of the greateil fafety. The Turks, aware of the influence of fuch a prejudice in the minds of the vulgar, have, it is faid, made frequent attempts to feize tl.is pM- ladiuni. 1 he fate of Hungary^ however, fcems nov; tOtJIl THROUGIt GERMANY* 24^^ how fc) entirely decided, tliat exclufive of the Value they put upon the crown, as a relic of confiderable antiquity, the Hungarians need not be folicitous whether it remains in this caftle, or in the itiiperial palace at Vienna. By the conftitution of Hungary, the crown is ftill held to be eledive 3 this point is not dif- puted; all that is infilled on is, that the houfe of Auftria iliall be eleded as often as a vacancy happens. H U N G A R Y Is, without doubt, the richefcpart of the Au- ftrian dominions 3 — it not only poiTefTes every thing that is produced in the other countries, but feeds them with its overflow, and excels them as much in the quality, as in the quantity of what it produces ; but here we have great cccafion to obferve the truth of that axiom, that the more nature does for man, the lefs he commonly does for himfelf ; not only a great part of this fruit- ful land is uncultivated, but even that which is cultivated is not turned to near the advantao-e it might; they know nothing of artificial cultiva- R 2 tion. 2 1-4 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. tion, fLich as dunging in a cheap way j the mix- tu, e of different earths, and the life of chalky clay to manure, though parts of the country produce this laft commodity in great abundance. Tliey fuiTcr, at lead more than half the ground there is need for, to lay fallow. Their common way of threfhing, is by driving rxea over the corn, by which half of it is itft for flraw. When you are travelling through this country, you think yourfelf going over a wikl, though you are in fad upon a bottom, which wi'h very httle trouble would produce fifty, fixty, or even one hundredfold. The roads are of an imimenfe breadth, and the fields adjoining them of {o little value^ that the poftiiions drive through them, v/ithout the Icaft ceremony, ^^hen- ever a little mud cr rain in the highv/dy reminds them of its being more c©nvenient. TJie inhabiraiits excufe their bad farmiing by the little value which grain bears, and fay, that if their harvefis v/ere ten times greater, they Ihould gain nothing by diem. There may be f3me truth in this, but the fault is cerrainly owing originally to a bad goveinmxxir. The value of grain would undoubtedly incrcafe, wich an increaf/d population, and if the farmer had luiiici^ne TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 245 fufficicnt encouragement, the land might be put to other ufes, befides the growing of grain. They already grow a great deal of tobacco, faffron, and other valuable articles ; but there are numberlefs others which might be pro- duced, if, what you will fcarce believe, go- vernment did not rather feek to difcourage, than promote agriculture. The exportation of the Hungarian wines, one of the richeft products of the country, and which, if it were free, would foon ruin the fale of the French wines in the North, is clogged with innumerable obftrudtions. Thefe the legiflature impofes under the idea, that if once they did not exift, the trade of the Auf- trian wines would be ruined. The difcourage- ment in confequence has been carried to. fuch a height, that not long fince there exided a law, that no quantity of Hungarian wine (hould be exported without exporting fo much Auf- trian wine with it. This, no doubt, fuits the Auftrian nobility who have eftates with vines npon them ; but it is feeding the little finger at the expence of the whole body ; for, as none but thofe who can afford to pay exorbitantly for their drink will buy the Auftrian wines^ R 3 the 246 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the confequence is, that, except a few of the rich nobility, France fupplies all the North, which othervvife would take its wine from Hungary. Nor does the evil end here; the Hungarian peafant, who is oppreiTed by his lord, feeks to drown his forrow in the cup, which he either makes himfelf, or can buy in moft places for two, three, or four creutzer the bottle. The confequence of this is, that men who in their youth are plump, ruddy, and feemingly built for ever, grow pale, ema- ciated, and dwarfifh, and begin to droop after thirty, fo that the population is already much diminifliied, and would grow lefs and lefs, if it were not for the acceflion of foreigner's. There is no country in the world which has a greater variety of inhabitants than Hungary. The ancient pofTefTors of the country were partly Tartars, and partly Sclavonians. Amongft the former we may reckon the Hungarians, now properly fo called, the Cumanians, the Seders and the Yatfigers, Their manners and appearance plainly fhew that they are of kin to the Calraucks, and defcendants of the old Scythians. Their deep eyes, angular cheek bones, and yellow ikins, diftinguifli them TOUR THROUGPI GERMANY. 247 them from the Sclavonians, who befides are whiter, more flefhy, and ftouter built. There are feveral parts of the country in which both the races are continued pure and unmixed. The Sclavonians confifl of Croats, Bohemians (who originally are a branch of the Croats), Servians, Ruffians, and Wenden Polackers. There are beiidcs German colonifts, but if they choofe to poiTefs lands, they muft buy their nobility for 2000 ducats, which make about 22000 livres. Belides all thefe, there are Walachians, Bulgarians, Turks, Greeks, Ar- menians, Jews, and Gypfies', which laft are the richeft of all thefe foreigners. All thefe people, a few of the German colo- nifls only, and the higher nobility, which is modelled after the faihion of the court of Vi- enna, excepted, are fcill in a barbarous ftate. Indeed it mufl be owned that the court in- {lead of fucceeding in improving them, as it has done the red of its fubjecls, has rather done them harm than good, by the attempts it has made for the purpofe. WhilQ: they were left to themfelves, they were warlike, and, like all the children of nature, whom a falfe R 4 policy 243 TCITR THROUGH GERMANY. policy- has not fpolled, open-hearted, hofpita- ble, frank, and fteady to their promifes. The interefts of the higher nobility are dif- ferent from thofe of the refl of the country ; their under tenants, which make the greated part of the people, are not feudal fuhjcdis, neither have they any real property ; they are farmers who may be turned out of their farms upon the leaft diiTatisfadion. The nobiliiy contributes nothing but free gifts to the ne- ccfiities of the flate, though it is in pofleffion of half the produce of the country. It is al- moft the only order in the ftate, for the higher orders of the priefthood are chofen from the nobility, {o that the interefts of the two orders ^/M. is in fad one. The cities are too fmall in nuniber, and too infignificant in themfelves, to form any corps capable of making head againft the other two. In (hort, the boafted freedom of Hungary is only a privilege of the nobility and clergy, to live at the expence of the whole country. Hitherto, the court have tried every artifice to deprive the nobility of this pernicious pre- ponderance. The. conteft between the fove- f^ign and the nobles fqon broke out into feve- ral TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 249 ral rebellions, the mod famous of which were thofe of Tekeiy and Ragotzki. The execution of Counts Serini, Nadafti, Frangipani, and Settenback, which followed clofc, have been quoted by fome, to (hew, that the court cf Vienna, though generally unwilling to recur to them, is not incapable of ufmg Turk i 111 aieafures to free itfclf of troublefome and dangerous dependants. Yet, if the teftimony of hiilory is to be believed, it appears that thefe nobles were traitors. The plan which the court has followed for a long time, to reduce this overgrown nobility, promifes muck more fuccefs than any extraordinary a6i:s of feverity, which only ferve to irritate the minds of men, and fet them more upon their guard. The court of Vienna, confcious of the influ- ence luxury and pleafure have over the minds of men, allured the proud Hungarians from their freeholds to the court, or to the city. By diftinguiflied places, titles, and marriages, they gave them opportunities to fpend their money in a brilliant way, to contrad debts, and finally, by the feizure of their lands for the payment, to furrcnder at difcreticn. The deceived Hungarian looked upon it as an honour. 2^0 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. honour, to connect himfclf wlih the Auflrian, who made a [greater figure than hmifelf at court, and took a greater fhare in the govern- ment of the country. For this purpofe he chofe his wife at Vienna, and fettered himfelf by this means. The lady too, by introducing the court manners into his houfe» finiQied cor- rupting him, and made him entirely depend- ant. There is hardly an Hungarian noble, at this time of day, that is either free from debt, or that does not, like the Auflrian one, look upon his debts as an honour. The court has confequently no further commotions to fear in this country, as the difcontenied people will not eafily tind a leader with power and confc- quence enough to make their rifmgs danger- ous. — The diffipation of the Hungarians has alfo bound them to the court by another tie, as their neceflities no longer allow them to ferve for nothing, but make the pay of the court an objed to them. — Another way that has been taken, has been that, of allowing the Auflrian nobility to purchafe Hungarian eflates, in proportion as the ow^ners were obliged to fell them, or, as they fell into ihc aown by forfeitures, &c. At this time of I day, TOUR THROUGH GERMA>:y. 25I day, feveral amongft the firft Hungarian no- bility are Germans, who ftrengthen the influ- ence of the court. The two nations are mix- ed, their manners are nearly the fame. The more perfons partake of it, the more indifferent the Hungarian is to its liberty, and the lefs eftate he pofTeffes, the lefs he cares for his country. The promotion of the higher eccle- liaftics to great preferments, is another mode of binding the nobility, which the court has praftifed with fuccefs. Befides what has been already ftated, the court ufes feveral other means, that depend ypon time and circumftances. One of the molt efficacious is, the loading the produce of Hungary with very heavy taxes. Thefe op- preffions indeed, immediately affed the nobili- ty only, to whom the exports properly belong, as the people have no property ; but, indi- redliy, they hurt the whole country, and par- ticularly the manufa(5lurer, and mercha.^ts in great towns, by the diminution of the coin in circulation. The duties on the exports of Hungarian wines, are fo confiderable, that the Croats who inhabit the mountains, are obliged to buy the wine. The fad is, the court ■Zjl TOUR T!n(OUGH GEPvMANY. court liad rather let the country lofe money ihan {liffer Hungary to be rich. It is difficult to make an exa6l eflimate of the goods annually exported from and imported into Hungary. The receipts of the cufloms, the only one by which you can form a good judgm.ent, are either fo imperfectly or fo fe- cretly kept, that there is no depending upon them. All therefore upon the fubjed muft confifh of report and conjecture. It is aflerted, that the exports amounted to twenty-four, and the imports to eighteen millions a year, making a balance of fix millions in flivour of the country : but if we compare tlie exports and impons, we (hall find it is impoffible but that the former ihould be ftated too high ; for with fuch a balance of trade as Hungary muR: by this means have> it ought to be one of the riuhell countries in Europe, whereas iioihing is (career than money in this country. Of the twenty millions of revenue which Hun- gary, together with Tranf^lvania and Illyria contributes to the (late, three at the mod comes to Vienna, and the fums which the few noble families that refide out of it carry from the country, arc replaced by what foreigners in TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 253 in employment fpend in it ; many millions therefore muft remain in Hungary, and if to thefe are added, fuch a balance oi trade as Hated, fuppofing it only to have continued five years, the country muft be much richer than it is. If we confider a little the variety of commo- dities which Hungary muft import from abroad, it is impoflible it fhould have even an equal trade ; it is obliged to purcbafe almoft all the produdions of art, befides an aftoniOi- ing number of thofe of nature. . Clothes alone coft four or five millions of florins per annum ; wrought fiiks, linens and cottons as much more ; coffee and fugar muft at leaft come to two millions and a half; tin, glafs, colours, and drugs, muft coft them annually many millions. In this eftimate we do not take in toys of every kind ; foreign wines for the liquorifli palates of the great men, who can- not be contented with the admirable produce of their own vineyards ; foreign horfes, coaches, harnefTes, and a great many other foreign articles. The quantity of the natural produdlions, which Hungary, on the other hand, gives the ftranger, cannot come up to any 254 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. any thing like the fiims thefe articles muft coft. According to a rough calculation here made^ Hungary exports the value of about five mil- lions and a half of oxen, fvvinc, and horfes-, four millions of corn, hay, &c. three millions of wine, half a million's worth of tobacco, filk (moftly from Sclavonia), citrons, chefnuts, and other fruits; and fome millions of minerals, efpecially copper; fo that if you fet the exports at fixteen, and the imports at eighteen milli- ons, it will be much nearer the truth. Its expences arc probably confined with- in two millions ; its fituation, and the nature of its government, prevent it from making all the ufe poflible of the rich treafures it pofTefles ; and the high degree of luxury which obtains in all orders prevents its owing to its own induftry feveral articles which it procures from the ftranger, though it might prepare them itfelf. Having jufb told you the great fums annually paid for clothes, it will perhaps aftonifh you to hear, that there is no country in Europe fitter for breeding Iheep than this is. Prince Eugene, who was as great a judge of political improvements as he was a general, perceived this, and having procured fheep from TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. i^^ from Arabia, gave himfelf all the trouble pof- fible to propagate the breed in the country of Ofen. The Emperors Charles, and Francis, made many wife regulations for the fame pur- pofe; but hitherto it has been unfuccefsfuL The nobility, who pofTefs almoft all the lands, are too proud and foolilh to attend to agricul- ture ; the farmers have no property, and the inhabitants of the towns are depreffed by reli- gious perfecutions. The climate of the fouthern part of Hun- gary is extremely favourable to the growth of lilk ; but except in Sclavonia, which is not improved as it ought to be, there grows none, notwithftanding the example of their neigh- bours the Venetians, and the facility of pro- curing mulberry trees from Italy. The only art which is carried to any degree of improve- ment is that of niining. Here all that mathe- matics could do has been adopted. You would be aftoniOied at the fight of the ma- chines in ufe to clear the water from the pits, and to carry on the other neceffary operations. The gold and (ilver mines of Cremnitz and Shemnitz produce but little to the crown, owing to its keeping part of them in its own hands. 2;b TOUR THRCUGH C2n^rAXt^ hands, and not farming the vvhole. There are other gold and filver mines in tlie country, but thcfe of Tranfylvania excel them all at prefent, and promife to do ftill more fo in future. Probably the court gets much mofre by the copper than it does by the gold and filver mines, efpecially fince the cuftom of (lieathing the men of war with copper has prevailed. Hungary is able to furnifh all Europe with copper; upon the whole, half of the four millions of florins which the coun- try gets by its mines comes from Hungary. The country has an extraordinary appear- ance; it is inclofed on ail fides with high bills, in the midft of which are plains, which you may travel through for fome days without per- ceiving the lead elevation. You meet with immenfe deferts, in the midfl: of which, as in thofe of Tartary, are v^ild horfes. The woods are filled with wolves, an animal fcarce ever feen in Suabia, Bavaria, or Auilria. Near the banks of rivers, in the plains, there are morafles, which here and there form lakes; the drying up of thefe will be a great advan- tage to the country, by making its rivers na- vigable, adding great quantities of land to it^ and TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 257 and purifying the air. The beads are all very different from thofe of Germany ; the horfes are fmall, light, and not handfome, but un- commonly lively and ftrong : a Hungarian ufes only three or four in going from Vienna to Turkey, in a conftan-t trot or gallop ; their breed has been greatly improved in the ftuds of the nobility, in (everal parts of the coimtry. The oxen are large and beautiful ; they are all afli-colour, or white, and I do not rccolledt to have feen a red or brown one in the whole country ; their flefh is remarkably well tafted ; even the poultry, are diftingulhed from thofe of other countries by their fize and fliape : In fhort, all that has breath here, attefts, either by its growth or its agility, the wonderful vi- gour of nature. The artificial appearance of the country is as remarkable as the natural. In one place, perhaps, you fee palaces upon which art has exhaufted all its magnificence, and within a few paces you come to countries w^here men dwell in caverns under ground like the wild beafts. At Prefburg, Port, and OiTen, which are the largeft cities in the country, and each of which contains 30,000 men, you believe S yourfelf 258 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. yourfeit in the mofl enchanting country in the world; and within a few miles of their gates, you feem to be in Mingrelia. The ftrongcft proof poffible, that the coun- try is miferable, is the contraft of extreme po- verty with extreme riches, and the more ftrik- ing that contrail is the greater is the mifery. A people may be very poor, and yet very happy ; but when amidft ftraw huts, which hardly protect their inhabitants from wind and weather, you fee marble palaces towering to the clouds, when in the midft of immcnfe wilderneffes tenanted by miferable fkeletonSj who hardly find roots in the fields to keep body and foul together, you meet with gar- dens with fountains in them, grottos, par- terres, terralfes, ftatues, and coflly pictures ; It is a fure fign that one part of the inhabitants live by pillaging the reft. The Hungarians, in general, are extremely proper for a military life ; they want nothing to be perfed foldiers, but the kind of educa- tion which a good government might give them. The Croats particularly have all the requifites for fervice. Their mean height is ilx feet ; they are bony, flefhy, quick, and lively TOUR THROUGH GERMANY.. CI59 lively, and can bear the extremes of cold and hunger. In a word, there are no better made men in Europe, notwithftanding which, they are the mod miferable part of the Imperial army ; a fure fign that government either neg- leds them, or does not know how to diicip- line them properly. Sometimes it has been propofed to incorporate them with other corps^ but this would only be to take away their natural advantages, and furniQi them with artificial ones in their ftead. Such a change would put an end to their ufual way of life, to which tjieyare indebted for their hardinefs. They commonly dwell fix or feveii families under the fame roof. As their frugality ena- bles them to bring up many childien, they marry early, in the vigour of their youth, and their children are the produce of their unim- paired manhood. Their juices are ftill un- corrupt, and the deftrudtlve diftempers which poifon the fources of life, are not yet intro- duced amongd them. The patriarchal go- vernment flill fubiifls amongfl: them, and the grandfather, who has grown old amidd his children and grandchildren, ftill retains an authority over them. As by this means their S 2 manners 26o TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. manners are preferved uncorrnpt, nothing more is requifite than to humanize their priefts; this would render them ufeful fubjedts to the (late, without commerce, manufactures, or arts, which the court has lately endeavoured to introduce amongft them, in my opinion not to their advantage. An education more fuitable to the nature of their country, and their peculiar conftitution, would by degrees deprive them of their natural ferocity, and they would become the more tradable, in proportion as they acquired better notions of religion, agriculture, and the other things connected with their well being. Their fero- city, the natural confequence of their barba- rity, is the true reafon why they are fo averfe to difcipline, and the only way of getting the better of this, and making them like the other fubjeds of the houfe of Auftria, fit for military fervice, is domeftic education : this alone can bring them out of their barbarity, without depriving them of their other advantages. In the year 1740, when the Hungarian no- Lj^ bility took the field for their King, Maria Therefa, the firft fight of fuch troops ftruck the French army with a panic. They had, indeed. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 26 1 indeed, often feen detachments of tnefe dia- bles d'Hongric, as they ufed to call them, but a whole army of them drawn up in battle array — unpowdered, from the general to the common foldier — half their faces covered with long whiikers — a fort of round beaver upon their heads inftead of hats — without ruffles, or frills to their ihirts, and without feathers — all clad in rough (kins — monftrous crooked fa- bres ready drawn and uplifted— their eyes darting flaQies of rage (harper than the beams of the naked fabres — was a fight our men had not been accuflomed to fee. Our oldeft offi- cers flill remember the impreffion thefe terrible troops made, and how difficult it was to make the men fland againft them, till they had been accuftomed to their formidable appearance. All this is now at an end, the Hungarian nobleman begins to leave off his long beard, and drelTes much after the French fafhion. It is remarkable enough, that whilft in imi- tation of the Hungarian foldier, the Huflar has become an efTential part of the Pruffian army, and has alfo been received into the French re- gular troops, the true original is lofh in his own country. Not one of the fourteen or fifteen S 3 regiments 262 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. regiments of hulTars in the emperor*s fervicc is made up entirely of Hungarians. Expe- rienced officers have, it feems, thought fuch regiments could no longer be of any fervice ; it may be fo, but it is certain that the Hun- garian has entirely loft his fpirit by difcipline, for, like other wild men, he detefts the arti- ficial arms againft which his ftrength and courage are of no avail, and if ever he (hews himfelf in his native fiercenefs, it is only when the firing is over, and he comes to clofe engagement. Here indeed the hero fome- times ftarts out again. But this was not enough to make the Hungarians a match for the Pruffian huffars in the Silefian war; on the contrary, they always proved inferior to them. An old officer who had fpent his youth among the Croats, declared, they are nor to be known fince they have been difciplined ; for, inftead of being a trufty, fpirited, gene- rous foldiery, they are become a band of treacherous, tricking, cowardly robbers. * I * had much rather,* fays he, ^ have had to * do with them when they were entirely un- * difciplined, and under the influence only of * their TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 263 ' their own laws and cuftoms. It Is true they * plundered both friend and foe when we ' went into the field, and committed every ' kind of depredation in the towns where they * were quartered ; but thefe were the work- ^ ings of a ftrong fenfual appetite, which did * not prevent their being of the greateft fer- ' vice. They ufed to take the mofl danger- ^ ous out-pofts, in the very teeth of the ene- * my — never deferted — would follow their of- * ficers with the utmoft fidelity through any ^ dangers could fad many days without; * making any complaints, and provided you * left them wdiat they had ftolen, which they, * did not affect to conceal, were indefatigable * on a day of battle. The alteration which ^ difcipline has effedted in them is, that they, * indeed, fteal no longer openly, but they * fteal fecretly, and fteal from each other ^ whenever they can ; they have learned the * methods of concealing their thefts, and are ^ always making cabals againft their officers ; * and though become too cowardly to defert * when there is any danger attending defer- * tion, they are fure to do it whenever they * can with fafety. They grumble whenever S4 Vthey 264 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ^ they are kept two days embodied in the * field, and never put off their uniform with- ^ out curfmg it. They look upon their over- * feers as their enemies, and hate them. For- * merly it was an unheard of thing, for a * Croat to go over to the Turks, but now * they join them to the number of 20 and 30, * and plunder their native country. . The ^ fame thing is true with regard to the Scla- * vonians ; and even the reft have been ra- ' ther hurt than bettered by regulations not ^ adapted to their circumflianees.' The Hungarian regiments of infantry, a- mongft which there are likewife many Ger- mans, and feveral regiments of huifars, are conftantly quartered in Bohemia, Moravia, and the German cities ; on the contrary, fe- veral of the German regiments, particularly the heavy horfe, and the dragoons, are quar- tered in Hungary. There is no province in the hereditary dominions of Auftria, which has fo many troops in it as Hungary has, in proportion to its population and exports. This may in fome degree be owing to the cheapnefs of provifions for man and horfe. If it be fo, in cafe of a war breaking out, on TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 265 €h the confines of Germany, the courr lofes in a few weeks, what it has been faving by this policy for many years ; for the forced marches which the cavalry are obliged to make to their places of deilination, generally kill half the horfes before' they have got there. For my own part I have little doubt, b\it that the true motivejrof this allotment of troops are to make the Hurrgarians acquainted with the other mem- bers of the empire ; to extinguifh their natural fpirit by the fight of numerous armies in every part of their country; to accuftom them to fubordination ; and in fome degree, perhaps, to increafe the confumption of the country, and fo promote the circulation of coin. In eight pofts acrofs a very fertile country you reach the caftle of Efterhafy, the refidence of the prince of that nam.e ; he is the firfl in rank of the Hungarian nobility, and one of the moft magnificent fubjeds in Europe. He has body guards of his own, all genteel looking men, richly dreiTed in the Hungarian manner. • The palace is a noble building lately finifhed, and fituated near a fine lake. The apartments are equally grand and commodious ; die furni- ture more fplendid than that of moft royal palaces. In 266 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. In the prince's own apartment there are feme mufical clocks, and one in the fliape of a bird -which whiftles a tune every hour. Jufl by the palace, there is a theatre for operas and other dramatic entertainments ; in the gardens, a large room with commodious apartments for mafquersdes and balls ; and at no great diftance there is another theatre, ex- prcflly built for puppet-fhews. This is much larger and more commodious than moil pro- vincial play-houfes, and is the mofl fplendid that has yet been reared in Europe for that fpe- cies of a6tors. The puppsts perform whole operas, and in a manner that equally fills one v/ith pleafure and aftonifhment. What renders the magnihcence of this place ftill miOre (Iriking, is the very extraordinary contrail of it with the country round. The lake of Neuiiedler, which is not far from the caflle, forms a large moiafs, which extends for the fpace of feveral miles, and threatens in time to lay the great edifice under water, as it has already done great part of the country, which was formerly very produ6live. The inhabitants of the country round have the appearance of fo many ghofts, and are regularly plagued with agues tOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 267 agues every year. About haif the money which the prince has IrJd out in beautitVing hli cadle, would not only have been fufficitnt to drain the fens, but would have taken as rPAich land again from the lake. As this is ever upon the en- creafe, there is great rea Ton to fear it will en- tirely overflow the low country : the only way to prevent this, will be by making a canal to communicate v/ith the Danube, an enterprize which would do the p:ince much lionor. CHAP. l68 tour through Germany CHAP. IV. Route to Prague — Kolin — Defcription of Prague — Account of Bohemia — Route to Drefden — Ac- count of that City — Curiofities — Troops — Com^ parative fate of the Saxons and Bavarians — Induftry of the Saxons — Town of IV it t ember g - — Potzdam — Sans Souci — Berlin — Prujffian Troops — Extent and Revenue of the Pruffian Dominions. I N proceeding from Vienna you muft pre- pare your mind to meet with but indifferent fare, and it would perhaps be more prudent to carry fome cold provifions with you in your chaife. The diftance is about two hundred and three miles -^ and the firfl; place for you to ftop TOUR THROUGH ^ERMANY, 269 flop at is Jezelzdorf, which is forty-fix miles from Vienna, where you will mod likely find nothing to eat, but may be accommodated with a tolerable bed at the poft-houfe ; you will be better pleafed if you proceed to Znaim which is a pod of ten miles farther, and is a a town of Moravia, fituated on the banks of the Tegrew. From Znaim it is fifty-four miles to Tglen, which is a pretty town and well peopled. As long as you continue in Auftria the country appears Angularly well cultivated, and there is all the marks of encreafed happinefs among the farmers ; but in the parts of Moravia you pafs through, the inhabitants do not feem near fo happy as their neighbours ; notwith- flanding this, however, the country is well cultivated throughout ; nor do you fee any of the wild deferts which are fo flriking in Hun- gary. The plains are relieved by gently rifing hills, and on the confines of Bohemia, the hills rife into more flately mountains. The parts of thefe through which the road lies are frequently crefled by ancient caftles ; but on the plains of Bohemia you meet with very few villages; and it feems the Germans have a proverb. 1]0 TOUR TflKOL^CH GERMANr. proverb, which Hiys of a thing that is fcarce, *' that it is ibarce as a village in Bohemia." Moft of the villages lie off the great road in the neighbourhood of rivers and brooks, or beliind woods; this cuftom of hiding the ha- bitations in the rocks of the country or be- hind woods, probably took its rife in the time of the wars, when the inhabitants endeavour- ed to Ihelter themfclves from robbers. From I glen to Kolin is fifty- four miles ; and between Pianuoi and tlie latter place is the field celebrated from the defeat of the king of Pruffia by Mare'chal Daun. Near the road is a public houfc, from a window of the up- per ftory o^ which the king directed the ac- tion ; in this fituation he was far from being fafc, fincc they fliew fevcral marks of cannon balls in the front of the houfe. Kolin is a little pretty town, and by far the moll preferable between Vienna and Prague ; it is thiriy-nine miles from the latter, and contains an inn where yov] may meet with a tolerable (upper and a very good bed. The garrifon excepted, ir does noc contain above three (houfand five himdred fouls. The houfes are not more than fcven hundred, and are far from TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ajl from being well inhabited, though they are well built, every houfe ftands diftindl and fe- parate ; but without either orchard or garden. You behold Prague for feveral miles before you arrive at it, and the exterior, which is dark and gloomy, by no means promifes the comforts and accommodations which you will find at that excellent inn aux Bains de Prague. PRAGUE. This is a very large town, it is above three miles long, and above two broad, but the population by no means anfwers to the fize of the place. In feVeral parts you feem as if you were in a village. Near the bridge, which ftands at the upper part of the city, the num- ber of people is very great, but the further you go from hence the more defolate you find every place. The number of inhabitants is about feventy thoufand, and there is about five thoufand houfes. — The bridge over the Moldau is feven hundred feet long; it is built of large freeftone, and ornamented on both fides with (tone ftatues as large as life, but not 272 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. not more than three of thefe are worth feeing. There are very few good buildings in this place, and almofl every thing looks very dir- ty. The royal caftle is a very large irregular building, but it is built on a hill, which com- mands a very fine profpedl over the whole city and country round. Not far from hence flands the archbifliop's houfe (a pretty mo- dern building), and the old cathedral, in which there are fome pieces of architecture, which deferve to be fcen. In whatever degree this city may have dwindled in wealth and magnificence, the piety of the inhabitants is certainly as much as ever. The corners of the ftreets, bridges and public buildings, are all ornament- ed with crucifixes, images of the virgin of all fizes and complexions, and ftatues of faints of every country, condition, and fex ; and people are inceflantly kneeling before them. Though the city is in general ill built, the fi- tuation of it is extremely fine. There is an excel- lent profped from the brid ge. The mafs of houfes rife like an amphitheatre to a confiderable height. To TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 273 To the rio-ht the hill rifes above them as far as the imperial palace, m.ajeftically fituated on the top. ■ To the left it is covered as far as the middle with beautiful gardens and plea- fure houfes, which have a fine effed:, and form a moft extenfive and moil magnificent amphitheatre. From thefc gardens you command a very fine profpecl over the oppofite part of the city* In the midft of the broad, but dry Moldau, there are two fmall iflands, called Great and Little Venice, in which the inhabitants make parties of pleafure* The Bohemians, who addid themfelves to the purfuit of the arts and fcienccs, generally fpeaking, are very fuccefsful in them. They do not want genius, and have uncommon in- duftry. Their fondnefs for mufic is aftonifh- ing. Several orcheftras here equal thofe of Paris in brilliancy of execution, and furpafs them in accuracy and exadnefs of harmony. Bohemian players on the horn and harp are to be met with throughout all Germany. As they always bririgJiome great fums of money, you feldom fee a mufician of this kind> who has not travelled* This paflion for mufic is T generally 274 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. generally attributed to the number of monaf- teries and cathedrals; but the cathedrals of Auflria and Bavaria, which are no lefs nu- merous, have no fuch effect upon the public tafte of thofe countries. The true reafon ra- ther is to be fought for in the cuPcoms and na- tural genius of the people ; which is culti- vated with care, fmce there is fcarce a town fo wretched where mufic is not taught, or a perfon fo poor but which in fome meafure learns it. Mofl: of the fludents of this place are muficians, and begin very early in life to give ferenades and concerts in the fquares and public places of the city. The numerous garrifon, which is conflant- ly kept here, contributes not a little to the livelinefs of this place ; there are about nine thoufand men conflantly quartered here. The fix regiments of grenadiers are a fine body of infantry. The officers are excellent com- panions, and quite free from thofe prejudices from which other bodies of men are not yet totally exeaipt. The Jews make a confiderable part of the inhabitants of this place ; there are at leaft nine or ten thoufand of them ; they have ar- I tills TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 275 tifts and mechanics of their own religion, who live in the part of the town appropriated to them, which is called the Jews city. It is pleafant enough to walk through this part of the town, and fee their taylors and flioe- makers at work in the middle of the ftreet. Their workmen are difiinguifhed from the Chriftian ones by their clownilhnefs and dirt. Their induftry is wonderful ; in almoft every inn there is a Jew, who does the bufinefs of a houfe-fervant ; he fills your fnuff-box, gar- ters your (lockings, does all the little matters you have occafion for ; brufhes your (lioes, dufts your clothes, and is in every refpedt a valet de -place ^ excepting that he will take no money. He looks upon himfelf as extremely well paid for his trouble, by the gift of fome old cloaths, which he difpofes of again. Thcfe fellows ferve many ftrangers on the fame terms, and content themfelves with what they can make by trucking and bartering' among their own people, without afking any thing farther. If you give them fomething to drink befides they are very thankful, but I have never feen them troublefome with their demands. T 2 This 2y6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Tliis city has neither an cxtenfive ccni- nierce nor any maniifatftory of confequence. There has long been a piojecl of rendering the Moldau navigable, biu hitherto this court has not been dilpofed to be at any cxpencc for the public, and the thing cannot be done without a great expence. Were it once done, Prague would certainly gain a good deal by it ; but fiill a great deal more would be re- quired, before commerce could flouridi here; there are, indeed, many impediments to get over; amongft the principal one may be reckoned the pride of the nobility, who v/ith the greatefl: part of the national means in their hands are alhamed of trade. For the advantages of the table this place is incomparable ; the poultry is peculiarly good ; there is a plenty of game that is ailoniihing ; no inn fo wretched, but you have a pheafant for your fupper, and often partridge foup. The fifh is carried about the ftreets in a manner that tempts one ; a large round tub fet on low wheels, and full of live carp, tench, and eels, is puOied about by a man who fells them. BOHEMIA TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 277 BOHEMIA. ■ Bohemia, indeed rhough inferior to Saxony is a country, favoured of heaven, the climate is excellent, and feveral foreigners make it their confiant refidcnce, induced to it by the vvholefomenefs of the air, the goodnefs and cheapnefs of all the nccefTaris of life, and the cheerful good humour of the inhabitants. The climate of this country is not expofed to any of thofe fudden and inclement changes which are fo fatal to health in other pbxes. The winter colds are neither too fliarp, nor the fummer heats too ftrong. I'he air is dry, clear, and temperate. The country lies high, and forn'is a large extended plain, (ui rounded on all fides by very high hills covered with rich woods. The vale in the middle, which is watered by the Elbe, the Moldau, the Eyer,^ of which you may eafily form an idea, by cafting your eyes on the map, is proteded- from the force of the wind. The feveral hol- lows in the middle contribute to let out the waters, fo that there are neither lakes nor mo- rafles to fill the air with unwholefbme vapours. T3 ■ As 275 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. As the foil is flony only in very few places, the waters flow eafily through the country, and make it fruitful, without filling the air, as is the cafe in fevcral parts of Upper Swit- zerland, with catarrhs and coughs. The country produces every thing that can contribute to the comfort of life in aftonilh- ing abundance, wine and fait only excepted. The greatefh part of the former is brought at a very moderate price from Lintz, where is a warehonfe for fait, which is brought from Gerund in Auftria, and Halle in the Tyrol. The remainder is brought from Auflrian Po- land at a moderate price. There have been many fuccefsful experiments made to produce wine, and a fmall quantity has been made, very little inferior to the lecond fort of Bour- deaux wines. The firft flocks were brought from Burgundy. The country, however, will hardly be able to produce a fufEciency of this article for confumption, but it has other ad- vantages to make up for the lofs. As it pof- feffes mofl of the prime neceffaries of life, and by that means commands a fuperiority of trade, which none of the neighbouring coun- tries can difpute with it, it provides a great part TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 279 part of Silefia, Saxony, and Auftria \vi:h corn, and alfo fells them fome cattle. The circle of SaafTer alone is atow able to furnifli all Bohemia, populous as the country is, with corn, even in moderate years. The excellent Bohemian hops are carried as far as the Rhine in great quantities. The breed of horfes is likewife wonderfully improved within thefe few years, and bring annually large fums of money into the country. The Bohemian tin is the beft of any, next to the Englilh ; and they carry on a very confiderable trade in alum, and feveral kinds of precious flones, particularly garnets. The large woods, in which the country abounds, furnifli materials for the wonderful manufactories of glafs, which bring a great deal of money into the country, and find their way into every part of Europe from Portugal to Sweden. With-^ in thefe few years they have alfo made large quantities of very good, and uncommonly cheap hats, with which they fupply great part of the inhabitants of Auftria, Bavaria, and Franconia. The handkerchief and linen. ma- nufaAories are alfo in good repute. T 4 The aSo TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, The Bohemians travel much. Some as dealers in glafs, who go as far as England, and Ital}^ and fou.c as bafket and fieve makers. I have met with large caravans of thefe on the Upper Rhine and in the Nether- lands. Thefe people commonly come home with pretty large fums of money ; they keep together like brothers, v/hilll they are in fo* reign countries. They have indeed an un- common ihare of patriotifm, and a kind of confidence in each other, which often makes them pafs in the eyes of flrangers for a favage and barbarous people, though they really arc not fo. They have a fecret hatred to the Germans, which does not arife fo much from bad tem- per as from a kind of national pride. Mod of the farmers who live near the roads, fpeak German ; but as they do not like to talk to a flranger without necefTity, they pretend not to underftand a word of what the tr^iveller fays, and make their fport of him amongft them- felves. It has been attempted to make them fend their children to German fchools, but hitherto they have all proved abortive. They have an unfpeakable averlion to whatever is German, TOUR THROUGH CEIIMANY. 2SI' German. Thej^ Rill remember too, that the refkience of the court at Prague formerly ren- dered the country flourifhing, and lament that the preference which has been given to Anftria, in confcquence of a flight mifunder- llanding, carries off large fums annually from the country, which are fent to Vienna, partly by the court, and partly by the nobility. They are a handfome, ftrong-builr, and active race of people ; and you fee evidently that they are defcended from the Croats, who are (ome of the handfomeft people upon earth. Their heads are a little too large ; but their broad Ihoulders, and their thick-fet bodies, render the difproportion not fo vifible as if would otherwife be. They are without doubt the bed foidiers of all the Emperor's troops. They bear the inconvenicncies of die military life longer than any. Even hunger, that deadly fiend to every thing that calls itfelf an Imperial ioldier, they can fupport for a confi- derable time. The conilitution and manners of the coun- try contribute much to make the Bohemians fuch foidiers as they are. The farmers live in ^ poverty^ which preferves them from eftemi- nacy 2,82 TOUR THKOUGTH GERMANY. nacy and luxury much more effedlually than any pofitive fumptuary law could do. Befides this, the feudal flavery fyftem, which obtains here in the extreme, accuftoms them, from their youth upwards, to unconditional obe- dience, the great military virtue of our days. Their conftant labour and fcanty food, ren- ders them hardy, and, like the Spartans, they find the foldier's life far eafier than ploughing the fields of their maRers. Their horfes alfo arc flrong and hardy ; the breed has been lately improved from Tartary and Tranfyiva- nia, and are much ufed among the dragoons. From Prague to Drefden is ten polls or Binety-fix miles through roads really deteil- able ; that from Lowofitz to Auflig may claim the fuperiority in point of badnefs. There is however at Auffig a good inn to make you amends for the fatigues you have undergone. At Auffig you may eml?ark on the Elbe if you (hould be tired of travelling by land. The Elbe rolls through the mod varied and ele- gant landfcape poffible; the agriculture is di- verfified like the country ; and the people feem to live in comfort and affluence. Hares will fcarce move from near the carriage wheels, fo TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 283 fo little are they apprehenfive of offence ; and the partridges run clofe before you without being in the leaft alarmed. DRESDEN. Drefden has a proud appearance, and offers on all fides a magnificent objed ; the china fteeples, or fpires of blue or green porcelain tiles glittering in the fun, have a ftrong ef- fect. The houfes are built in a much better tafte than thofe of Vienna ; and the eye is quite dazzled with the long and magnificent bridge over the Elbe, it is five hundred-and forty feet long and thirty-fix broad ; and he light iron railing has a more elegant appear- ance than a flone baluftrade. The river v/hich at fome diftance from the city is confined within very narrow bounds, widens by de- grees as you approach, and is here a power- ful ftream, which befpeaks all the magnifi- cence of the town and flate. The hills op- pofite to the Lawfnifs have a grand appear- ance, and the mountains on both fides the river^ partly naked and partly planted with vineyards, 284 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. vinej^irds, form an uncommonly beautiful perfpedivc. Tlie manners and way of living of tliefe people is as oppofire to thofe i'ecn in ilie for,- mcr part of Germany, as the beauty of thefc facets, and the tafte difplayed in the build- ings, is difTerent from Suabia, Bavaria, Auf- tria, and Bohemia. Finer fhapes, more ani- mated countenances, eafier and lefs cqnftrain- ed motions, general courtefy, univerfal clean- linefs, are the features which immediately of- fer themfelves to obfervation, and mull ftrike every one v/ho comes into this country by the route from Vienna. The Hotel de Pologne is not furpaffed in excellence by any inn on the continent ; it is not only ierved in an elegant, but in a prince- ly ilile. It v/as in an unfortunate moment that the fortifications about this town were firll built, but it is more unfortunate ftill, that inftead of pulling them entirely down, thofe who are concerned are at this inftant employed in re- pairing them. Commanded as this city is, from every fide, and v.'ith no reafonable ex- pectations, in its prefent fituation, of ever bcinLT* TCUR THROUGH GERMANY. 258 being able to preferve a neutrality on the breaking out of any war betwixt the king of Pruffia and the. Auilrians, it is more than any other in danger of being plundered and laid vvaile. Indeed one would have imagined that the devaftations of the years 1758 and 1760, were tlill frelh enough in every man's memory to have been a warning to the regency. The town does not feem to be peopled in proportion to the quantity of ground it ftands nn. The number of inhabitants is generally cflimated at lifty thoufand, which many think too high. The fad is, that it has loft a third of its inhabitants fince the Ipreaking out of . the laft Silefian war, and the death of king Auguftus. The flrangers who knew this city before this 2era, cannot fay enough of the difference there now is, a difference not fo much arifing from the misfortunes of war, as from the oeconomy of the court, which has followed clofe on the diifipation of other times. In the late elector's time, this court was perhaps the moft brilliant in Europe. The court band of muhc, the opera, and the dancers alone, were fuppofed to coil the eleclor an- 4 nually «86 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. nually 300,000 Saxon guilders, or upwards of 780,000 French livres. His table, his {ta- bles, and his hunters, were all in the fame ftyle of expence. Strangers ufed to flow hi- ther from all countries, to be partakers in this magnificence, and Drefden was the rendez- vous of the north for tafte and refined living. The numerous followers of the court, and the great number of fl:rangers,occafioned a veryex- tenfive circulation of money, and made all the arts alive; but this a::ra of fplendor has been followed by a night of darknefs ; and the debts that were contracted by the late elector have ever fince obfcured the Saxon court. One of the wonders which makes the mod noife here, is the celebrated green vault, or private treafury, in the elecloral palace. You would naturally imagine they would be (hy of fhewing it to flrangers, till what was carried to Holland and fold there during the lafl Si- lefian war was replaced ; no fuch thing, they made no difficulties whatever, but the man who fhewed it declared, that things were exact- ly in ftatu quo. The colledion, after all, is ftill admirable. In TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 287 In the firft apartment is a great number of fmall brafs models of the mod famous ftatues and monuments extant, both ancient and mo- dern; among which is the celebrated Tore Farnefe. The fecond room contains clocks, and di- vers automata of a curious ftrudture, both in gold and filver ; among which is a (hip failing round the table, while fome of the failors weigh the anchor, and the reft are employed in other works ; and at the fame time per- forms a piece of mufic. Another piece of clock-work reprefents the Virgin Mary and Jofeph, with the Infant Jefus in the manger, while the fhepherds an'd eaftern magi, per- form their adorations to the Meffiah ; at the fame time the heavens feem to open and dif- play a furprifing luftre. Here is alfo a trium- phal car drawn by two lions, and in the cen- ter of it an organ. In the third room are fhewn a numerous colledion of drinking veffels of ivory, and cu- riofities, particularly a (hip compleatly rigged; and the fucceffion of the eledors of Saxony, from the chriftian asra, in raifed letters, ele- gantly performed* In 288 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. In the fourth apartment is a multitude of gold and lilver utcnfils, mofl of them are gob- lets and large drinking vefibls; one of thofe in gold holds five quarts, and is enriched with medals. In the fifth apartment are depofited a great variety of precious fhones, and curious vefTels formed from them. The feveral camoes and intaglios in this room, are faid to be worth three hundred thoufand dollars. The pieces formed out of genls and pearls are furpriling. The fixth apartment is fiirrounded with clofets, in wliich are to be placed the por- traits of all tlie electors of Saxony, as large as life, in their proper habits. In the center of this room is a clock in the bull of a wo- man, who turns her head about each minute. In the feventh apartment is a tea equipage complete, of gold enamelled, fet with dia- monds, by Dillinger,, jeweller to the court. 2. A large matrix of an emerald, in the hand of a Moor, whofe collar is jewels, and near him a baftcet filled with ores of filver and gold, cryflals, and other produ6lions of his country. 3. On a table, an ell in breadth, and an ell and a quarter in length, is a repre- fcntation TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 289 fentation of the manner in which the great Mogul's birth-day is celebrated. The mo- narch fits on his throne, and proftrate before him are all the grandees of his empire, while the portico is crowded with his guards, ele- phants, and every other particular compofing the fplendor of an eaftern court. In the cen- ter of the room is a pillar, adorned with beau- tiful bals-reliefs in Arabian agate, and an oriental onyx of an oval figure, whofe tranf- verfe diameter is near a quarter of a Drefden ell. The yellow briUiant ring is unique, and valued at an immenfe fum. The green one is larger and is fet tranfparent. There is alfo a white diamond from the great Mogul's em- pire. Here is alfo a bafon of oriental agate, nearly as large as half a cocoa-nut cut longi- tudinally. The number of fingle gems is really furprizing, among which are an entire fet of diamond buttons for a fuit of cloaths, together with a badge of the order of knight- hood, with the ftar, buckles, and head of a cane. An aqua marina, as large as a man's fift, with other precious flones to an immenfe value* U In 290 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. In the laft apartment is a clock of gold, fet with gems ; and a jafper table, with cryf- tal and amethyft veins. The pidure gallery, the colle6lion of an- tiques, the prints, and the collodion of na- tural hiftory, will probably appear much greater objects of curiofity, in your eyes, than the green vault. The pidure gallery is the mofl remarkable in Europe ; belides the pidlures in water-colours, it contains twelve hundred pieces of the beft mailers. Amongft them is the famous birth of Chrift, comm.on- )y called The Nativity, by Corregio, which pafles for the beft work of that mafter ; it Goft above half a million of livres. Some perfons, however, prefer the St. George, likewife by Corregio ; this ought properly to be called The Virgin, for fhe is the principal figure in the piece, and the St. George, with other faints, is ftanding about her. The gallery contains feveral pieces by Carrachi, amongft which is his beft work ; it is a St. Roch giving alms ; this pidlure is known in Italy by the name of Opera delP Elemojina. Some glorious Titian's are in the fame facade; the Rembrandts are alfo beyond credibility, perfed TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 29I perfe6t of their kind, and produce a moil powerful effed. His portrait of his own daughter is efteemed beyond all price, though the girl has little dignity and lefs grace about her. — The eagle in the Jupiter and Ganimede is wonderful. A candlelight, Rubens; a Cu- pid in crayons, by Mengs ; a portrait of old Parrby, Vandyke ; a Parnaffus, by Giacomo Tintoret ; Jacob bleffing Pharoah, by Ferdi- nand Bol ; a Medona by the fame mafter ; and an Egyptian Mary, by Spagnolet, are ranked among the befl pieces. The manufadlory of porcelain here will doubt- lefs attradl your attention. The eleftor has a complete colledlion of the fincft pieces, from the firll attempts made here in this elegant work to the lated improvements. This, inde- pendent or the beauty of many of the pieces, is a matter of real curiofity, as it marks the pro- grefs of ingenuity and invention. Nothing can be more dehghtful than the view from the terrace, in the gardens of the late Count Bruhl which are fituated at the banks of the Elbe. The count's magnificent houfe is now flript of many of its greateft ornaments ; the fine colledion of paintings, has been fold U 2 to ZgZ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. to the emprcfs of Ruff.a for 150,000 rix dollars. The library which is m the garden, is 220 feet long. It is doubtful whether that nobleman re- quired fo large a room for his books ; but it muft have required at leaft as large for his ward- robe, if the account that be given of it be juft. They fay that the count had at leaft three hundred different fuits of cloaths ; each of thefe had a duplicate, as he always (hifted-his cloaths after dinner, and did not choofe that his drefs fhould appear different in the afternoon from what it had been in the morning. A painting of each fuit, with the particular cane belonging to it v/as accurately drawn in a large book, which v/as prefented to his excellency every morning by his valet de chambre, that he migiit fix upon the drefs in which he widied to appear for the day. This minifter v/as accufed of having ac- cumulated a great fortune. The reverfe of this is however true; his houfe and garden belong now to the elector. The Saxon troops make a very line appear- ance ; the men in general are handfome and well made ; the uniform of the guards is red and yellow, that of the marching regiments white. The foldiers during the fummcr wear only TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 293 only waidcoats, even when they mount guard, and always appear extremely neat and clean. The fcrjeants, befides their other arrns, have a large piftol ; this is fo comnnodioufly fafcened to the left fide, that it gives no trouble. The band of mufxc belonging to the Saxon guards is very fine and complete. Of late there has been a projedt fet on foot to put the army, which confifts of twenty-five thoufand men, upon the fame footing as the PrufTian one ; but hitherto the reform is in its infancy, and the foldiers rather fnew an averfion to their new exercifes. There are very few rich people here ; hardly any of the nobility have more than 30,000 flo- rins a year -, and mod of the bed houfes have only from 1 5 to 20,000. Though the common people murmur fometimes at the dearnefs of provifions, there is a general appearance of eafc and plenty; feveral manufactures of ferges, woollen and filk flourifh ; the money in circu- lation is for the mod part thrown into motion by the induilry of the people, a thing which more dian any thing dfc diftinguifhcs this place from Vienna and Munich, which fubfift only by the expences of the court and the nobility. U3 ^The 294 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. The power of the elector is more limited than that of any fovereign in Germany. The court cannot make the fmalleft law with- out the confent of the dates ; thefe are made up of three orders ; the abbots of Merfeburg, Mei- fen, and Naunburg, as reprefentatlves of the clergy, the count Schwartzburg, Solms, Stoll- burg, and Schomburg, as the reprefentatives of the higher nobility, and the univerfities of Leip- fick, and Wirtembcrg, compofe the firft ; the fecond confifls of the gentry belonging to the feven circles of the empire; the number of thefe is uncertain. A member of this body, befides eight quarters of nobility on the fide of both fa- ther and mother, mufl pofTefs a freehold eftate ; but if, which is often the cafe, he has even three or four of them, he has only a finglc vote ; fo that the exercife of the oi?.ce is more attached to the perfon than to the property. The reprefentatives of the towns, in number one hundred and two, form the third order. The general affemblies meet only every fix years, but there is a deputation, which com- monly affembles every two years, to confider of all the extraordinary cafes that come before ir. Thefe ftates do not only diredl the levy of I taxes. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 295 taxes, and attend to the payment of debts, but they watch ovtv,fidei commijfa, the maintenance of the ellablilhed religion, the non-alienation of the eledloral lands, and various other mat- -tcrs. The conflitution of the Lawfnifs is the fame in every refpect. The payment of the debts is what gives them the moft employment ; the whole of • thefe amount to twenty fix millions of thalers, of Saxon money, or fomething more than 2,600,000 pounds. They pay every year about 1,200,000 guilders, or 154,100 pounds. If you add to this, three and a half per cent. of intereft, it will be a long time before the debt is paid. But notwithftanding this, the (late treafury is in very good credit, as it is fecure from all man- oeuvres of the court, and diftinguifhed by the moft exact rectitude : when the country was al- moft exhaufted by the diftrefles of the laft war, and its credit much impaired, the bills fell con- fiderably 5 this gave rife to the fpeculations of fome foreign and domeftic merchants, who bought up the bills at a low price. Three years, however, were not elapfed before it be- came vifible that the country had fufficient re- U 4 fources* 2g6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. fources, and the paper rofe to its original value. Mofl of the fpeculators gained from 50 to 60 per cent. The wonderful alteration ftruck the merchants of Hamburg, Lubeck, Brt^men, and Holland, and the flates proceeded to pay the remainder of the debts, which by this manceu- vre had been already in a great degree difcharg- ed by their fubje6ls. The revenue of the country amounts to about 6,2O0,oco thaler?, or about 620,000 pounds. The taxes are all appropriated by the flates to fpecific purpofes ; nor can the eledlor m.ake any alteration in the deftination of them without their confent. He has his own privy purfe, to the fupply of which particular revenues are alfo appropriated. The flates have agreed, that the army fhall be increafed in the fame proportion as the debts lefTen. Each prince of the blood has a revenue of 50,000 thalers, or about 5000I. w^hich, as the prefent family is exceeding nu- merous, is a confiderable article. — The Im- perial court confidered it as a grent a(5l of con- defcenfion, to fufFer a Saxon prince of this court to marry the archdutchefs Chriflina; but the Saxons tell you, that great as the honour was, it would have been flill greater, if the magni- ficence TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 2^J Bcence of the Imperial court had enabled the duke of Saxe Tefchen to do without this allow- ance. There are few countries in Gernnany, which, in proportion to the fize of it, produce as good a revenue as Saxony. It is true, that the taxes are very high, but there are few other countries who have frrength enough to bear fuch ; and as the exchequer is in the hands of true patriots, and effedlually fecured againfl any attempts of the court, what is paid is fure to be employed to the beft advantage of the country. There is nothing more ftriking in the poli- tical world, than the difference betwixt Bavaria and Saxony. Both, countries are of an equal fize, and enjoy an equal number of natural ad- vantages. Both are parts of a circle, and yet the lad contains eighteen large, and two hun- dred and fix fmall towns ; whereas the former has only forty in ail, amongll which there is not one, Munich only excepted, that is to be compared, I do not fay in riches, but in popu- lation, with the fmalled of the eighteen Saxon towns J and there are at lead fifcy out of the two hundred and fix fmall Saxon towns, which are richer than the richefl of the Bavarian ones. 2 Saxonv 298 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. Saxony has one million nine hundred dioufand; Bavaria, one million one hundred and eighty thoufand inhabitants. The firfl raifes above eleven millions of guilders j the latter not more than fix millions. Saxony has a much greater debtj but the debt is in the way to be paid, and the country was able to raife twenty thoufand men to join the PrufTian army in refcuing Ba- varia from the houfe of Auftria ; whilft Bavaria could only raife fix thoufand men, in order to have the appearance of entering a proteflation againft the Auftrian pretenfions, and its debts remain unpaid. But a more induflrious people than the Saxons are not to be feen. The whole chain of moun- tains which border on Bohemia is filled with men, who force their nourifhrnxcnt from the naked woods. They not only work flones and minerals in every pofTible way you can con- ceive, b'jt; every town has befides fome manu- fadture of linen, lace, ribbands, cotton, hand- kerchiefs, flannel, or fomething elfe, which takes up an innumerable quantity of hands. When fafhion, or the caprice of their neigh- bours, ruin one manufadory, they have always ten others to fet up to make up for the lofs. Freyberg TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 299 Freyberg contains upwards of twenty-five thoufand, and Swickau upwards of fifteea thoufand inhabitants. The other cities are like the market towns, uncommonly popu- lous and animated. — The fame induflry and cafy circurriftances are met with on the other fide of the Elbe, throughout the Laufits, Bauflen, Gorlifs, and Zittaw, are (lately ci- ties, full of trade and bufmefs. The mines are an inexhauftible fource of riches to this country ; they almoft all belong to companies of private men. The works are divided into certain portions, part of which the company works free of cofbs for the court, which receives what is got from them. The revenue of the court, from all the mines of the country, is eftimated at 400,000 guilders, which is hardly a fifth part of what they pro- duce. A ftill much more confiderable fum is gained by manufacturing the produce, as very little of it is exported raw. The Saxons prepare fteel and copper, and have a great number of gold and filvcr manufactories. The Saxon arms are known all over the world. The Saxons have diflinguifhed themfelves by their fkill in mining all over Europe, It is 30O TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. is fpoken of even by Spanidi and Neapolitan writers. Their (Irong bodies, their indefa- tigable induftry, and their good tinderfland- ing, particularly qualify them for this kind of employment, which is undoubtedly the mod complicated and laborious of all human occu- pations, and which requires the greatefl va- riety of knowledge to bring to perfedion. The inhabitants of the fmalleft villages in the Saxon mountains^ though often fhut out from the world by hills on each fide, are more poliflied, better bred, and more alive, than thofe of the largeft towns in the fouth of Germany. Reading isalmod univerfal in this country; fociability and liofpitality accompany and en- courage the hardeft labour ; even the focieties pf the inferior ranks are diftinguifhed by the liberality, knowledge of the world, wit, and Jollity to be met with in them. The women are throughout remarkable for the beauty of their fliapes, the animation of their looks, and their infinite fpirit, eafe, and vivacity, and yet they are quite good natured, and ad- mirable houfewifes. Th€ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 30I The uncommonly large population of this country expofes the inhabitants to no fmall diftrefs in times of fcarcity. The land does not produce a tenth part of the grain necef- fary for the confumption of the people, who are obliged to fupply their wants from Bohe- mia. The univerfal fcarcity which prevailed in Europe nine or ten years ago, was no where more feverely felt than here. Many thoufands died, a part through abfolute want, and a part from being obliged to eat bad pro- vifions. Great numbers were indebted for their lives to the freemafon's lodges at Dref- den, Leipfick, Fridburg, and other places, the member's of which did an incredible deal for the relief of the necefTities of their bre- thren. If any country flands in need of gra- naries, it is this. As foon as the fmallefl: fcarcity is perceived, the exportation from the neighbouring countries is flopped up, and the Saxon plains are too much peopled eafily to bear the lofs of their harveil. Go- vernment has made fome regulations ; but in the prefent ftate of the finances of the coun- try, it is impoffible that it (hould do as much as 302 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, as would be requifite to fecure the inhabitants of the mountains againft every event. From Drefden to Leipfick it is eighty-four miles, through Meiflen, Sheuchitz, Wermf- dorf and Wurtzen. The road near Stochitz is very indifferent; there is however a good inn at that place. About a mile on this fide of Wurtzen you are ferried over the Molr dau ; and from thence you approach Leipfick through a champaign country, but well cul- tivated. L E I P S I C K. Leipfick is a fmall but handfome, and in fome places, a fplendid city ; the number of its inhabitants, reckoning the fuburb, amounts to near thirty thoufand ; it was formerly greater, but the fcvere treatment it fuffered in the war of 56 drove many away. It is governed by its own laws but is dependent on the eledor of Saxony. The commerce and manufa6tures of this place are very confider- able. It is the center of the book trade of all Germany, and of the wool trade of all Saxony, TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 303 Saxony, and there are few cities in Germany which furpafs it in commerce and exchange. Here they make velvets, woven filks, fhags, linens, cloths, rattines, carpets, and a great variety of other things. This city fupplies the greateft part of Saxony with drugs and apothecaries wares, and has a confiderable fhareof the trade which is carried on betwixt the fouth of Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and the North. There are feveral wealthy houfes here. * The fair, is no more than a fhadow of what it was thirty years ago. The moft remarkable part of the prefent trade, is the exchange of books, carried on by the German bookfellers. Their number is about three hundred, and the value of the books they exchange amounts to 500,000 rix-dollars, or about 1,751,000 livres. Leipfick maintains itfelf in the pofTeffion of this trade, not fo much from its having once taken that channel, as from the great quan- tity of books publilhed in the city itfelf, and its centrical fituation in the midft of a country where all the arts iiourifh, and reading and writing are mod univerfal. The 304 TOUR THROUGH GERMAN^. The city has four handfome free-ftone gates, at each of which is fet up a mile poll, after the manner of the Romans ; this kind of pofts a«e at the gates of all the towns of the eledorate ; and from hence they count the leagues, which are divided at the end of every quarter of a mile by other pods not fo big, upon all the great roads, (hewing the diftanres. They have fix churches for the Lutherans, which is the eftablifhed religion, one for the reformed, and a chapel for the Roman Catholics in the caftle, ever fmce the eledoral family embraced this religion. None of their churches are very extraordinary, ex- cept that of St. Nicholas, which is looked upon as the fineft Lutheran church in Ger- many. The people of this tov/n have intro- duced a new kind of luxury even in their de- votion : one of the capital churches has a number of chapels projected about fix feet from the main wall, through which they com- municate with the church, each chapel hav- ing its diftindl door without. Some of the wealthy citizens have bellowed on thefe aux- iliary buildings 1 500 or 2000 dollars. ThQ ctlic;- phceb moil worthy of notice are, the great TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 30J great market-place; the exchange; the fladt- houfe ; the town-library. There is a famous univerfity in this city, founded in 1409, and formerly very much frequented by foreigners. They have but four colleges and twenty-four profefTors ; mod of the fludents lodge in the town, and are not obliged to refide within the walls of the college. The univerfity-library, the college of St. Paul, and the anatomical theatre are worth feeing. In the library they have abun- dance of manufcripts, of which the mod va- luable is reckoned Tretzer's Greek commen- tary on Homer's Iliad, in a fair character. The fludents are at great expence in this town, lodgings and provifions being very dear; but then they have the advantage of mixing with the befl of company, and ac- quiring a greater politenefs of behaviour than in any other German univerfity. This uni- verfity has been lately in fome meafure eclipf- ed by the neighbourhood of Halle, its rival, where the ftudents enjoy fuperior advantages in point of cheap living : yet Leipfick has always fupported itfelf with reputation. They have a great number of very learned men in X the 306 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the town, who are as remarkable for their courteous behaviour to flrangers, as for their erudition. Much more hixury and profufion reigns here than at Drcfden ; they play in all companies, and often extremely high. WITTEMBERG. On your quiting Leipfick, you proceed through a pleafant country to Wittemberg ; this is a large town of an oblong form, con- fiding chiefly of one ftreet. The ele<5lor Fre- deric the Third built here a fhrong caftle, and endowed in 1502 an univerlity in which Lu- ther firfl preached the reformation. It has large privileges, and was reckoned the beft Lutheran univerfity for divinity, but the laft Silefian war has changed the face of every thing here ; and not only the town, but the univerfity has fufTered by the rage with which it was carried on. The tomb of Luther is here ; and what perhaps will not lefs pleafe you, a very good inn. POTSDAM. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 307 POTSDAM. A little way beyond Wittemberg the flicc of the country changes, and through an heavy fand you advance flowly to Potfdam. It is fitu- ated on a branch of the Spree and is of con- derable extent. The houfes are built of a fine white freeftone, almoft all of them new, and nearly of the fame height. The ftreets are regular and well-paved, and there are fome very magnificent public buildings ; fo that Potfdam hr.s every requifite to form an agreeable town, if by that word is meant the flreets, ftone-walls, and external appearance. But if a more complex idea be annexed to the word, and if it be thought to compre- hend the finifliing, furniture, and conveni- encies within the houfes, in that cafe Potfdam is a very poor town indeed. The late king having exprefled a great in- clination to fee this town increafe, feveral monied people built houfes, partly to pay their court to his majefty, and partly becaufe, by letting them, they found they would re- ceive very good intcreR for their money. Bat X 2 as 308 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. as the town did not augment fo quickly as he wifhed, his majefty ordered feveral ilreeis to be built at once, at his own expence. This immediately funk the value of houfes, and the firft builders found they had difpofed of their money very injudicioully. Towns generally are formed by degrees as the inhabitants increafe in numbers ; and houfes are built larger and more commodious as they increafe in riches ; for men's ideas of conveniency enlarge with their wealth. But here the matter is reverfed ; the houfes are reared in the firft place, in hopes that their fair outfides, like the nymphs of Circe, will allure travellers, and attrad inhabitants. Hi- therto their power of attra6tion has not been ftrong ; for few towns are worfe inhabited than Potfdam, though the houfes are let to merchants and trades-people at very fmall rents. J was not a little furprifed, while I walked through the town, to fee buff-belts, breeches, and waiftcoats, hanging to dry from the gen- teeleft looking houfes, till I was informed, that each houfekeeper has two or more fol- diers quartered in his houfe, and their apart- ments TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 309 ments are, for the mod part, on the firft floor, with windows to the flreet ; which I am told is alfo the cafe at Berlin. The king choofes that his foldiers fhould be quartered with the citizens, rather than in barracks. This ought to be a fufficient anfwer to thofe military gentlemen, who infill on building barracks for the foldiers in Britain, upon the fuppofition, that our army cannot be well dif- ciplined without them. The palace at Potfdam, or what they call the caftle, is a very noble buildings with magnificent gardens adjacent. The king's ftudy is partitioned by baluftrades of filver, the frames of the looking-glafTes, and the embellifhments of the tables are alfo of the fame metal. In the bed-chamber where the late king died, at the lower part of the window which looks into the garden, four panes have been removed, and a piece of glafs equal in fize to all the four, fupplies their place. We were informed that his late majefty's fupreme delight through life had been to fee his troops exercife, and that he had retained his paffion till his lafl: breath. When he was confined to X 3 his JIO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* his room by his laft illnefs, he iifed to fit and view them through the window, which had been framed in this manner, that he might enjoy thefe dying contemplations with the greater conveniency. Becoming gradually weaker^ by the increafmg diflemper, he could not fit, but was obliged to lie on a couch through the day. When at any time he was uncommonly languid, they raifed his head to the window, and a fight of the men under arms was perceived to operate like a cordial, and revive his fpirits. — By frequent repetition, however, even this cordial loft its effedl. — His eyes became dim — when his head was raifed, he could no longer perceive the foldiers, and he expired. This was feeling the ruling paflion as ftrong in death as any man ever felt it. The churches are very fine on the outfide, but entirely plain within ; in one of them the corpfe of the great Frederic, no longer ani- mated by ambition, refts quietly in a limple filver coffin, befide that of his father, the great elector's, placed in a fort of clofet above ground, the door of which opens clofe to the pulpit's feet. SANS- TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 3II SANS-SOUCL At a fmall diftance from Potfdam is Sans- Souci ; the new palace was built by Frederic th« Second a few years after the laft Silefian war ; it is certainly a very noble and fplendid work. The offices are at a confiderable diftance, and are joined to the body of the palace by a double colonnade, which has a very grand efFed:. The front of the palace feems rather crowded, by the great number of ftatues which are intended to ornament it. Thefe are generally in groups, reprefenting fome ftory from Ovid. This building has a cupola terminated by a large crown, fupported by the three Graces. The Duke of Hamilton ob- ferved, that three PrufTian grenadiers would have been more fuitable. On the ground- floor, in the middle, there is a large hall, whofe floor, fides, and roof, are all of mar- ble. It is called the grotto, and the orna- ments correfpond with that name. This room can be agreeable only when the weather is exceflively hot. In Italy it would be delight- ful. The roof of this hall is low, and vault- X 4 ed. 312 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ed, and fupports another room In all refpe6ts of the fame diinenfions, only higher. This fecond room is alfo lined with beautiful mar- ble. The other apartments are adorned with rich furniture and paintings, all very (howy. Many people think them gaudy. — It muft be owned, that the gilding is laid on with a very lavifh hand. The gallery contains a great collection of paintings, fome of them originals highly ef- teemed ; the mod valuable are of the Fle- mifh fchool. There is alfo a refurredion of Lazarus by Rubens, of ineftimable value. BERLIN. From Potfdam it is two pofts or twenty miles to Berlin, the road heavy and uninte- refting ; you are however recompensed for the wearinefs it occafions by the fight of Ber- lin, which certainly may be regarded as one of the finefl cities in Europe ; it is divided into five wards, namely, Berlin proper. Coin on the Spree, Frederick's-werder, Dorotheen* ftadt, Frederick's-ftadt, and Konigftadt. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 313 The wards are generally feparated by hand- fome canals with draw-bridges over them, as in Holland. The chief gate of the Berlin ward, has been called the royal-gate ever fince Frederic I. made his entry there, after he was crowned at Konigfberg. It fronts the rue royale, one of the longeft and moft fre- quented in all the city, and adorned with fe- veral fine houfes, particularly the pofl-houfe. Through the rue royale there run other fpa- cious beautiful ftreets, as rue de cloitre, where ftands the royal manufadory, with public work-houfes adjoining to it. The Jews ftreet is the fecond ftreet that crolTes rue royale, and runs into the fquare called Molckemark, near which is a manufactory of gold and filver lace. In the middle of this fquare is a pedeftrian ftatue of brafs, of Fre- deric I. king of Pruflia, with a crown on his head, and a mantle on his (boulders. A third (Ireet, called the Spandau-ftreet, con- tains the town-houfe and other fine buildings. Not inferior to this is the ftreet called St. Efprit, as likewife the quay, which fronts the caflle or palace of the king. The church of St. Mary with its beautiful fpire, as alfo that 314 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. that of St. Nicholas, and that belonging to th'. garrifon, where there is a fine organ, arc handfome buildings. The next ward is that of Colin. It is fe- parated from Berlin ward, by the river Spree, over which there are four bridges, three of timber and one of ftone, called the Pont- ueuf, on which Frederic I. caufed the equef- trian ftatue of his father Frederic William to be ereded. This is efteemed a piece of ex- quifite workmanfhip; both the vr.3,n and horfe are but one intire piece, and were caft at one time : the ftatue weighs 3000 quintals, and coft 40,000 crowns. In this ward there are two churches, viz. the Trinity^s, which was once the cathedral ; and another called St. Perer's- The Pontneuf leads to the royal palace, a magnificent ftrud:ure of free-ftone, begun by Frederic I. in 1699; but as it has been the workmanQiip of feveral architeds, the fronts are not exadly regular. It confifts of four fcories, with large apartments, fine cielings, and truly royal furniture, fo much adorned with filvef in every fhape, that the like is hardly to be feen in any part of the world. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 315 The tables, (lands, luftres, chandeliers, fcreens, looking-glafs frames, couches, arm-chairs, &c. are all of that metal ; and, in that called the knight's hall, there is a beaufet, which takes up one intire fide of the room, where are cifterns and great bafons filver gilt. All this plate furniture is fo malTy, that the fafhi* on of it comes to no more than feven per cent, fo that about four millions of dollars might be realized, whenever the public ne- ceffity required. There is a fine gallery here, above fifty paces long, adorned with hand- fome paintings, done by the beft hands. The king's private apartments, though ele- gant, have nothing extraordinary. The pic- ture of Signora Barberini ftill remains in fe- veral of the chambers. The hall has feveral good paintings, and the grand faloon is adorn- ed with four pieces of tapeftry, reprefenting our Saviour driving out the money-changers, his wafliing of feet, the draught of fifli, and his lad fupper. The throne in the audience chamber is of velvet embroidered with gold. In the apartments of the old quarter of the palace, there is a bed of crimfon velvet, which has above two hundred cyphers with eledoral 3l6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. eled:oral crowns, all fet with pearls ; the chairs in the room are in the fame tafte. In this bed it is ufual to lodge perfons of the royal blood on their marriage night. The new chapel, defigned by the late king him- felf, is neat and commodious, but too low to be either grand or elegant. It is intended as a burying place for the royal family. One of the two grand flaircafes, leading to the grand room, is contrived in form of a glacis, with- out any ftep, fo that a coach may be driven to the top of it. There were fme gardens which were turned to a place of arms, and a parade for the guard. On that fide of the palace next the garden, is the library, which is but a mean apartment, though pretty well furnifhed with books. Here is a coUedion of bibles, to the number of five hundred, in different languages and editions. Among many others, they (hew the identical bible, which Charles I. ufed when he was beheaded; it was given as a kind of relic by Dr. Jaxon to the elector of Brandenburg. There is alfo the firft bible ever printed in America; and one of 1450, the firft printed in the German language. They alfo (hew the koran in a fmall TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 3 I y. fmall odlagon, the charader fo minute, and the paper fo thin, as to form only the bulk of one inch and an half. Near the library there is a cabinet of rarities, with a choice collec- tion of medals. The king's ftables are a fpacious building, facing the great ftreet from Frederic-ftadt. They are divided into courts, and nine pavi- lions, of an equal diftance from each other. The architedure without is Gothic, but the infide is more magnificent. The backfide of the ftables projects towards the river Spree, to which they lead the horfes by a ftair-cafe built in form of a horfefhoe without fteps. Here are very good apartments for the mafter of the horfe and his inferior officers ; and it is faid, thefe ftables have room for four hun- dred horfes. Over them there is an academy for painting; and behind them an obfervato- ry, with a great number of mathematical in- ftruments. A little beyond the firft market is St. Peter's, a Lutheran church, which having been deftroyed by lightning in 1730, is mag- nificently rebuilt. In Frier-ftreet ftands the palace, or court-houfe, where the Aulic council qi8 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. o council meets for the trial of all civil caufes. The Calvinift*s church, which is in the Cloif- ter-flreet, has a magnificent front, and is adorned with a cupola. There is a great row of uniform houfes over againft it, belonging to merchants and fupported by flately arches, with fhops under them. A fecond branch of the river divides this ward from that of the Werder, in which are the French fchool and their church, and the royal hunting-houfe, a magnificent flrudlure where there are magazines for all the hunting equipage. Near this place is the hotel, or palace, built by baron Danckelman, where ambafTadors are lodged. Not far from hence is the prince royal's palace. Separated from thence by a great fquare ftands the arfenal, one of the fined and beft finilhed ftru6tures of that kind in Europe. It confifls of four grand buildings that form a fpacious qua- drangle, with four fronts almoft exadly alike, and three great porticoes at the entrance of each. The lower ftory is of ruflic architec- ture, with arch-windows. The grand floor confifts of arches charged with ruftics, which fupport prlafters of the Ionic order. Over the TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 319 the principal gate, which is in the middle, there is the pidure of one of the eleftors of Brandenburg in a great model of brafs gilt. The four cardinal virtues, of a gigantic fize, are placed on pedeftals on each fide of the portico, and feem to look towards the pic- ture, and over it is the ele(ftor's cypher in the middle of a cartridge crown. The fird (lory is very beautifully executed in the Co- rinthian order. Round the whole runs a ba- luftrade, with noble decorations of trophies, ftatues, &-C. Near the arfenal there is a free- ftone fluice, with a fine large bafon, which may be called the port of Berlin ; for here you may fee a number of boats continually pafTmg up and down the river, which can come clofe to the cuflom-houfe. The Werder ward is feparated by a rampart and ditch from the Dorothy -ftadt, or new town, which is the mofl beautiful part of Berlin, and was added to it by the French, by whom it is now, for the moil part, in- habited. Of the ftreets which run in a flrait line, the chief is adorned with feven rows of limes, the firfl tree of which was pianced by Dorothy, the wife of Frederic William, I from 320 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. from whom the ward took this name. The middlemoft row, inclofed with a baluftrade, to keep off coaches and carriages, forms a pleafant grafs-walk for foot pafTengers : the walks on each fide are paved and ferve as a ring for coaches. On both fides of thefe rows are fine palaces richly furnifhed. Frederic-ftadt, fo called from the elector Frederic William its founder, communicates with the new town and the Werder, and is one of the pleafanteft wards in the whole city, the flreets being fpacious, ftrait, and planted with lime-trees. A new ward is alfo eredled behind it, which ranges to the end of the ;iew town, where many of the nobility have built palaces. In the fuburbs the houfes are generally of timber, but fo well plaiftered, that they feem to be of flone ; and the flreets are broad, flrait, and lightfome. In that of Spandau there is a mofl delightful pavilion, properly called Montbijou, furniQied with great judgment and elegance, which has charming gardens, that lie open to the river, and was the refidence of the queen dowager, who added great embellidiments to it. In the fuburb of Stralau, is the houfe, from its fine TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 32I fine profped, called Belvedere, belonging to the king ; and near it are the magnificent gardens of Mr. Grant. A traveller who comes out of Bohemia into Saxony, is apt to be (Iruck with the dearnefs of proviiions in the latter, but it Is nothing to what he meets v>'ith when he comes from Saxony hither. Several caiifes contribute to this, am^ong which may be enumerated the natural poverty of the country in feveral com- modities, the high cuftoms and many mono- polies. To give you a fmall idea of the former, a bottle of bad Burgundy fells for fix fhillings, and of the latter, the meafure of wood here comes to a guinea and a half, notwithftand- ing that Brandenburg is full of woods of all forts. Indeed tlie fniall quantity of money in circulation, and the price of every neceflary of life, forms a flrcng and difadvantageous contrafc between this place and Vienna, Yet the price of provifions at Berlin arifes not from the nuixiber of the inhabitants, for thcfe, exclufive of the garrifon, are very few ; the latter is indeed numerous and in peace time fcarce ever lefa than fix and twenty thoufand men. The reviews here form one Y of ill roXJK tHROtJGH GERMAN^* O the grandeft military fpedlacles that can be conceived, nor have fallen fince the death of the great Frederic ; and nothing can place the brilliancy of them more ftrongly before your eyes, than the defcription of one in the late king's time by Do6lor Moore. The army reviewed was about thirty-eight thouland men, confiding of the garrifon of Berlin, and troops from fome of the adjacent towns and villages. At break of day about eight thoufand men marched out of Berlin^ under the command of a general officer, and took pofTeffion of a village fituated on a rif- ing ground, at the dillance of two or thre© miles. About an hour after, the king him- felf joined the army, which was alTembled without the gates. He divided it into three^ columns. Two general officers took the com- mand of two of them ; he himfelf led the •third. The whole marched by three different routes towards the village, where the former detachment had now taken poft. In the attack and defence of this village the review confift- ed. As the army advanced, they were can- nonaded from the village, but could not be 4 fuppoied TOUR THROUGH GERTv^lANY. 32J ftippofcd to fuffer much, becaufe the leader of each column advanced with caution, tak- ing fuch circuits as expofed the men very little. At length the three columns met on a large flain near the village, but protected from the batteries by a rifing of the ground. Here the king formed the army into two lines. While this was doing they were perfedly fe- cure; but they could not advance towards the village otherwife than by going over the fwell in the ground, and being expofed to all the cannon of the enemy. This was to be performed, therefore, with as much expedi- tion as could be confiftent with good orden The right wing of the army made the attack* As foon as the lignal was given, all the drums and fifes ftruck up at once. The foK diers advanced with a rapid pace. A numer^ ous train of large field-pieces, placed at pro- per intervals, advanced with equal velocity, and kept in a line with the front rank. The rapidity with which they were charged and difcharged, as they advanced, was quite aftonilhing. When the line came within a proper diftance of the village, the foldiers Y 2 began 324 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. began to ufe their firelocks. In the mean time there was a furious cannonade, and dif- charge of fmall (hot from the village. The king was between the advancing line and the village during the attack. When they had got very near the hedges, a new battery opened from the village. The king gave a fignal, and the firft.line broke, fell into an. artificial confufion, and gave back towards the fecond line, which opened at feveral places, and clofed again the moment the re- treating line had pierced through. The fe- cond line then moved to the attack, as the former had done. This alfo feemed to be re- pulfed — a retreat was founded, and the whole wing began to retire. A body of cavalry then appeared from the village, and were ad- vanciiir^j to charge the retreating army, but Y/ere themfelves charged and driven back, by the caviilry of the right wing. A body of hulTars purfued alfo from the village, and haraiied the retreating army. Thefe were fometimes repulfed by the fol- ciiers, v/ho turned and fired on them, and fometimes by detached parties of cavalry, v;hicli drove t!^»em away. I Thefe TOU-R THROUGH GERMANY. 325 Thefe various operations were continued till five in die evening, and words can fcarce- ly defcribe the "perfedl manner in which the evolutions were executed ; but the means by which the foldier is trained to his duty may account for his dexterity. When the young ruftic is brought to the regiment, he is at firft treated with a degree of gentlenefs ; he is inftiuded by words only how to walk, and to hold up his head, and to cany his firelock, and he is not puniflied, though he fhould not fucceed in his earliefl attempts : — they allow his natural awkward- nefs and timidity to wear off by degrees : — they feem cautious of confounding him at the beginning, or driving him to defpair, and take care not to pour all the terrors of their diiciplme upon his aflonifhed fenfes at once. When he has been a little familiarifed to his new flate, he is taught the exercife of the firelock, firft alone, and afterwards with two or three of his companions. This is not en- trufled to a corporal or ferjeant ; it is the duty of a fubaltern officer. In the park at Berlin, every morning may be feen the lieu- tenants of the different regiments exercifing Y 3 with ;> 26 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, the greateft affiduity, fometimes a fingle man, at other times three or four together ; and now, if the young recruit (hows negled or remiflhefs, his attention is roufed by the offi- cer's cane, which is applied with augmenting energy, till he has acquired the full com-^ mand of his firelock* — He is taught fleadi- nefs under arms, and the immobility of a ftatue ; — he is informed, that all his members are to move only at the v/ord of command, and not at his own pleafure :— that fpeaking, coughing, fneezing, are all unpardonable crimes ; and when the poor lad is accom- plifhed to their mind, they give him to un- derftand, that now it is perfedlly known what he can do, and therefore the fmalleft defici- ency will be punifhed with rigour. And al- though he fliould deftine every moment of his time, ^nd all his attention, to cleaning his arms, taking care of his clothes, and pradtifing the manual exercife, it is but bare- Jy poffible fof him to efcape punifhment ; and if his captain happens to be of a capricious or cruel difpofition, the ill-fated foldier lof(?s the poor chance of that poflibility. As TOU-R THROUGH GERMANY. 327 As for the officers, they are not indeed fnbje6led to corporal punifliment, but they are obliged to beftow as unre^iiitting attention on duty as the men. The fubalterns are al- moft conflantly on guard, or exercifing the recruits : the captain knows, that he will be blamed by his colonel, and can exped no promotion, if his company be not as perfeft as the others : the colonel entirely lofes the king's favour if his regiment fliould fail in any particular : the general is anfwerable for the difcipline of the brigade, or garrifon, under his immediate command. The fame fyftem prevails at prefent, as during the reign of the late king. The Pruflian army confifts of about 1 80,000 men, and more than half of thefe are recruits from the neighbouring countries. They fub- fift on the produce of the country, the con- fumption of which is immediately conneded with the progrefs of agriculture. Their clothes and linen are made of materials which grow in the country, fo that they promote in- duftry both by contributing to the raifing the firft materials, and by the working of them. Their pay likewife is iffued from the treafury, Y4 in :28 TOUR THROUGH CEI^MANV J in fuch a way as greatly to afTift the general circulation. After their time of fervice has expired, many hundreds of the foreign troops continue in the country, and fo promote the purpofes of agriculture and commerce ; but the greateft part of the natives are always upon furlow, and work at home. Upon the whole, both induflry and agriculture rather gain than lofe by the army. Indeed you can call only the foreigners a ftanding army ; for the natives are, in time of peace, a regular, well-behaved, and eafily raifed militia. All the military regulations have thefe two ends in view ; that of preventing the im- provements of agriculture from fuffering by the number of troops ; and that of making them fubfervient to the circulation of money. For thefe purpofes the annual reviews always take place at the time of year when fev/eft hands are wanted for the purpofes of agricul- ture, &c. The troops are quartered in the feveral provinces in the exad proportion of the revenue of thefe provinces, fo that no money can go this way from one province to another. Every thing is precifely upon a par. Silefia has jufl as many troops more as Bran- denburgh. TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 329 denburgh, as it has more revenue ; and the other provinces in the fame proportion. As tlte army raifes near two-thirds of the re- venue of the ftate, there remains by this means m.ore gold in the provinces than there is in any other country in Europe, where commonly the gold flows to the middle, and the capital grows rich at the expence of the country. Each regiment has a peculiar part of the country affigned it for the recruiting, and in this, or near it, are commonly its {landing quarters. By this means the troops are not only eafily got together when they are wanted, but the father has always his fon in the neighbourhood, to help him to improve his land, and at the annual review time, the latter has not far to go to join his regiment. As during their furlows they have othet' occu- pations belides arms, and keep company with. other people befides their corporals and com- panions, they are civilier and freer in their intercourfe than the foreigners. — Thefe laft are enlifted in confequence of a voluntary contrad, the conditions of which are exadly adhered to. No 3iO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. No fovcreign pays more pundlually or more iparingly than the king of Pruflia ; nor is any man obliged to ferve beyond the time for which he is enlifted, as has been falfcly pre- tended. It is true, indeed, that the officers employ all their powers of perfuafion to re- tain a good foldier ; but a fliff and ftubborn denial puts an end to their entreaties. The neceffaries of life are dealt out very fparingly to thefe people, and you may read, upon many of their meagre faces, the ex- tremes of poverty, added to the extreme of labour. But without frugality and labour, the king of Pruffia's foldiers could not be fu- perior to thofe of other powers ; and as he is furrounded by enterprizing and jealous neigh- bours, he muft endeavour to procure himfelf, by art, what others enjoy in confequence of their natural ftrength. It muft be confidered that though the Pruffian king is the natural prote6tor of the German princes againft the ambitious defigns of the houfe of Auftria, his dominions con- tain not more than 3650 German fquare miles. The population of thefc arc eftimated at about fix millions, and the revenue at thirty-four mil- lions TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 331 lions of Saxon florins, or about three million three hundred and feventy thoufand pounds. He has indeed gained an acceffion of territory by the ceflion of the Margrave of Anfpach ; that prince who, while he retained his fovereignty, diftinguifhed himfelf by the patronage of the arts and fciences, has difplayed a mind fuperior to pomp and grandeur. As he had no children, and the King of PruIIia was his next heir, he refigned his dominions to that monarch; and retired to England, where he lives with a mag- nificence worthy his former rank. He has probably been in fome meafure influenced to this ftep by an amiable and accomplifhed Eng- lifh lady of quality, of whofe charms he had fom.etime fenfible and whom he has lately married. CHAP. 3S2 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. CHAP. V. Brandenburg — Magdeburg — Brunjwick — Hanover — Hamburg — OJnahurg Munfter'—BuJi'eldorp — Gallery of Paintings. BRANDENBURG. o N your qulting Berlin you reach in four pofts and an half, or about forty-three miles, Brandenburg, which is a fmall town divided into old and new, by a river which feparates the forts from both. It has very good accommo- dations at the Black Eagle. The principal trade is carried on by fome French woollen manufac- turers ; but the whole number of inhabitants does not amount to 1500. From Brandenburg it is five pofls, or fifty- four miles to Magdeburg. You fee the turrets of TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 335 of it for at leaft four hours before you enter the luburbs ; you will however forget the tediouf- nefs of the road on arriving at the inn called the king of Prnffia, where you meet with ex- cellent beds, fine linen, and a plentiful table. MAGDEBURG. Magdeburg is the capital of the dutchy of that name, in the circle of lower Saxony. It is a large and handfome city, fituated on the river Elbe, which divides thefe into many branches, fo that the flreets are united by bridges. It was deflroyed in 1631, after a very brave defence^ by count Tilly, the im- perial general. The town was pillaged on that occafion, hnd moft of the inhabitants put to the fword. Great part of the city has been rebuilt fince that time, the Lutherans in particular have ereded fome handfome churches. There is ftill a good number of Roman catholics in the town, and a college of Jefuits, with a church of very elegant llrudlure. The cathe- dral is a magnificent building j the high altar of which is a table of jafper ftone, eighteen feet long, 3^4 TOtjR THROI/fiH GERMAN"?, long, and about eight broad, and two in thick- ncfs. Here is a fine large organ, the mafter pipe of which is 23 feet long, and fo bigi, that a man can fcarce clafp it. In Otho's chapel this emperor is reprefented in bafib relit!Vo over the aitar, with his emprefs Edgitha, and be- hind the high altar their bones lie buried. Iiv the front cf the choir there is a fine' marble fla- tue of St. Maurice, the patron of the church. Among other ornaments^ here are alfo the fta- tues of the five wife virgins fmiling, and the five foolifli ones lamenting ; both very well done. They fhew here feveral relics, which were refpedled in former times, but are very little regarded by the prefent inhabitants. Lu- ther the reformer had his education in this city, and they ftill fliew the remains of his chamber among the ruins of the cloiller of the Auflin friars, v/ith his bedftead and table. Another thing that rendered this city famous, were the' tilts and tournaments which were firft inftituted here in the tenth century by the emperor Henry, furnamed the Fowler. After thefe exercifes had continued feme time, they were fuppreiTed by reafon of their deftrucflive confequences,. fcven- teen tOUR THROXTGH GERMANY. 335 teen gentlemen of Franconia and nine of Heflc having been killed at one tournament in 1473. Magdeburg is reckoned one of the ftrongeft places in Germany, being furrounded with very good walls, ftrong baftions, deep ditches, and covered by an excellent citadel fituated in an illand in the Elbe. Here is always a numerous garrifon, efpecially fince the late king's enter- prizes in Germany. Frederic I. built a palace in this city, which faces the great fquare before the cathedral, and is oppofite to the citadel he built, which is divided from it by the Elbe. Over againft the town-houfe there is inclofed in a fort of cage, an equeftrian flatue, which the city ere6led in honor of the emperor Otho who enlarged this town, accompanied with the fla- tues of his two wives Edgith and Adelais. The great fquare before the royal palace has few equal to it for its extent and fine houfes, which are all uniform, and three ftories high^ There is an arfcnal in this city, well provided with military implements. They have an aca- demy of cadets here, as well as at Berlin, where young gentlemen are inftrudled in the military art. The chapter of Magdeburg meets in the cathedral, and excepting the change of religion, ^^6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. religion, is on the fame foot as before tlie re- formation : the canons muft all make proof of their nobilitv. The fituation of this city on the river Elbe, is of great advantage to it in point of trade. Hence it is remarkable for its great magazines for the reception of merchandize brought from Hamburg on the Elbe, and from hence fent b\^ land to Leipfic and other parts. Some of the veiTels employed for this purpofe are of ieventy lafts, and though their fides are very thin, are generally deeply loaded : they are flat bottomed, and draw at mod three feet water. The river forms an ifland before the town, which has fome woj ks of earth cafh up, with feveral houfes, and large warehoufes of fir timber for fhip building, which is carried to Hamburg, and there bought up by divers nations. The ifland is joined both to the country and the town by two bridges, the firll of w^jich is defended by a fort built of free-flone. The current of the Elbe near the town is very ftrong. There are fourteen float- ing mills grinding corn; and to prevent the ill confequences of a rapid ftream, a fluicc is prepared for the fafer pafiage of veiTels with merchandize TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 237 merchandize. The perfecution of the French proteftants brought numbers of them to this city, where they were very well received, and eftablifhed feveral manufadures. The regency was formerly at Halle, but has been transferred fince to this city, which has con- tributed to render it more populous and flou- rifliing. The dutchy of Magdeburg is one of the beft provinces in the Pruffian dominions, having a vaft income from the Elbe and the fait works. The town is the ftrongeft place belonging to his Fruffian majefty, and where his princi- pal magazines and founderies are eftablifhed ; in time of war it is the repofitory of whatever he finds neceflary to place out of the reach of jfudden infulr. HELMSTEDT. Helmftedt, which is three pofls or thirty miles from Magdeburg, has the reputation of being one of the oldeft towns in this country; but its antiquity muft form its fole recommen- dation, fince the univerfity which once flou- rifhed here is fallen to decay, and the greateft part of the library is removed. Z BRUNSWICK. 335 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. BRUNSWICK. Twenty-five miles further through improv- ing roads, and a pleafant country brings yoa to Brunfwick ; it is fituated in the midft of a plain on the banks of the Ocker. The houfes are all of wood even to prince Ferdinand's palace, and painted of a dull olive colour, with heavy penfile roofs; which gives the town a melancholy look. Fortifications have been the caufe of much calamity to many towns in Germany, having ferved not to defend them, but rather to at- tradl the vengeance of enemies. For this rea- fon, Caflel, and fome other towns, which were formerly fortified, are now difmantled. But the fortifications at Brunfwick were of great utility laft war, and on one occafion they faved the tovv^n from being pillaged, and afforded Prince Frederic, who is now in the Pruffian fervice, an opportunity of perform- ing an adion, which, I imagine, gave hin\ more joy than twenty vicftories. This hap- pened in the year 1761, foon after the battle of Kirch Denkern, when Duke Ferdinand z proteded I TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 339 prote6bed Hanover, not by conducing his army into that country and defending it diredly, as the enemy feemed to expedt, and probably wi(hed ; but by diverfion, attacking with ftrong detachments, commanded by the He- reditary Prince, their magazines in HefTe, and thus drawing their attention from Hano- ver to that quarter. While the duke lay encamped at Wilhemft- hall, watching the motions of Broglio's army, the marechal being greatly fuperior in num- bers, fent a body of 20,000 men, under Prince Xavier of Saxony, who took polTef- fion of Wolfenbuttle, and foon after inverted Brunfvvick. Prince Ferdinand, anxious to fave his na- tive city, ventured to detach 5000 of his ar- my, fraall as it was, under his nephew Fre- deric, afTifted by General Luckener, with or- ders to harafs the enemy and endeavour to raife the (lege. The young prince, while on his march, fent a foldier with a letter to the governor, which was wrapped round a bullet, and which the foldier was to fwallow in cafe of his being taken by the enemy, — He had the good fortune to get fafe into the town. — Z a The 34^ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY- The letter apprifcd the commander of thp garrifon of the prince's approach, and parti- cularifed the night and hour when he expedl- ed to be at a certain place near the town, re- quiring him to favour his entrance. In the middle of the night appointed, the prjnce fell fuddenly on the enemy's cavalry, who, unfufpicious of his approach, were en- camped carelefsly within a mile of the town. They were immediately difperfed, and fpread fuch an alarm among the infantry, that they alfo retreated with confiderable lofs. Early in the piorning, the young prince entered Brunfwick, amidfh the acclamations of his fellow-citizens, whom he had relieved from the horrors of a fiege. — The hereditary prince, having deftroyed the French maga- zines in HelTe, had been recalled by his uncle, and ordered to attempt the relief of Brunfwick. While he was advancing with all poflible fpeed, and had got within a few leagues of the town, he received the news of the fiege being raifed. On his arrival at his father's palace, he found his brother Frede- ric at table, entertaining the French officers, whQ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* J^l ^ho had been taken prifoners the preceding night. The academy of Brunfvvick has been new- modelled, and the plan of education improv- ed, by the attention^ and under the patro- nage of the hereditary prince. Students now refort to this academy from many parts of Germany; and there are generally fome young gentlemen from Britain, who are fent to be educated here. Such of them as are intended for a military life, will not find lo many advantages united at any other place on the continent, as at the academy of Brunfwick. They will here be under the protedlion of a family, partial to the Britifli nation ; — every branch of fcience is taught by mailers of known abilities ; — the young fluderits will Tee garrifon duty regularly performed, and may, by the intereft of the prince, obtain liberty to attend the reviews of the Prufiian troops at Magdeburg and Ber- lin :— They will have few temptations to ex- pence, in a town where they can fee no ex^ ample of extravagance — have few opportuni- ties of difTipation, and none of grofs debau- chery* Z 3 HANOVER, 34.2 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. HANOVER. From Brunfwick it is forty-one miles to Hanover, the capital of that eledorate; it is like Brunfwick, fituated in a plain, and (lands on the banks of the Leina. It is a neat, thriving and agreeable city, well paved and lighted, has more the air of an Englifh town than any other in Germany, and the Engiifli manners and ciiftoms gain ground every day among the inhabitants. The principal churches are thofe dedicated to St. James and the holy crofs, which are built of ftone and remarkable for fome good paint- ings. The eledor's palace is the caftle, which Hands on one fide of the town upon the banks of the Leina, near the walls ; being a large building of freeftone^ containing feveral fquare courts. In confequence of a fire, which happened not many years fmce, great part of it has been rebuilt. The rooms are commodious, as well as grand, and many of them are hung with rich tapeftry, for which this palace ismofl: diftinguiflied* The opera- houfe. TOUft THROI^GH GERMANY, 343 houfe, as well as the theatre for the French comedians, both within the palace, arc an- cient but commodious. The whole is rather rich, decent and elegant, than fplendid* The chapel of the palace is very handfome ; here they are faid to have a great many re* lies, which were brought from Jerufalem by Charles the Lion, Duke of Brunfwick* Irl the treafury there is a fine piece of fdver ore, which is two feet long, about a foot and a half broad, and weighs twenty pounds, and coft the king 1635 crowns and twenty grofles; it was dug out of the mine of Anderfberg in Hart-forefb, and great part of it is pure fil- ver. In the chancery or fecretary*s office, there is a large library, filled with a good colle6lion of books, and feveral valuable ma- nufcripts. The Roman Catholics are tolerat- ed in this city, and have a very handfome church of modern architedlure. The iituation of Hanover is very agreeable, and there are feveral pleafant feats in the neighbourhood. This was formerly a free imperial city, and one of the Hans towns, at which time their trade was in a mod flourifhing condition ; but the only merchandize they Z 4 export 344 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, export at prefent, is a kind of fweet beer, and is taken off their hands by the neighbour- ing villages. The Lejna, which waters the town, is a branch of the Aller that runs into the Wefer, and confequently communicates with Bremen. Here are four fairs a year^ much frequented by foreigners. This city has acquired a new luftre fmce the acceflion of the houfe of Hanover to the eledoral college, and more efpecially fmce its advancement to the throne of Great-Bri- tain. The king's flables, are a noble flruc- turc, built by George the Firft. The king's palace at Herrenhaufen lies about two Englifh miles to the northward of the city. The way to it is through an agreeable avenue of trees, but the road is fandy. Erneft Auguftus, the pre- fent king's great grandfather built this palace in 1760 ; the greater part of it is of wood, the apartments nothing extraordinary, though there is rich and decent furniture, with fome good pidures. Charles I. and prince Rupert in particular, are faid to be originals and dif- tinguiflied for their likenefs. The garden however may juflly be admired. One fide of it is covered by a narrow piece of water above a quarter TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 34^ a quarter of a mile in length. The walks are moftly of gravel, made wide and fpacious, large fquares and bafons dividing feveral parts of the garden. The intermediate fpaces are formed by lofty groves and orchards; the whole produces a grand effed. While at Hanover you may chufe to make an excurfion to Hamburg ; it is fourteen pods and a half diftance, and the road lies through Zell. Z E L L. Zell is a fmall town without trade or manu- fadlures. The houfes are old and of a mean appearance, yet the high appeal for all the territories of the electoral houfe of Brunfwick are held here; and the inhabitants derive their principal means of fubfifhence from this circumftance. This town was feverely haraffed by the French army at the beginning of the late war, and was afterwards pillaged, in revenge for the fuppofed infradion of the treaty of Clof- ter-Seven. The Duke de Richlieu had his head- 34^ TOUR THROUGH GFRMAXY. head-qnarters here, when Duke Ferdinand rc-alTembled the troops who had been dif- armed end dilperled ia:imtL lately after that convention. The caille is a (lately building, furrounded by a moat, and ftrongly fortified. It was. formerly the refidence of the Dukes of Zell, and was repaired lately by order of the king of Great-Britain for the reception of his un- fortunate fider. The apartments are fpacious and convenient, and now handfomely fur- niilied. The ofncers of the court, the queen's maids of honour, and other attendants, have a very genteel appearance, and retain the mofh refpeclful attachment to their ill-fated miftrefs. The few days we remained at Zell were fpent entirely at court, where every thing Teemed to be arranged in the ftyle of the other fmall German courts, and nothing wanting to render the queen's fituation as comfortable as circumilances would admit. But by far her greateft confolation is the com- pany and converfatlon of her filler. Some degree of fatisfaction appears in her counte- nance v.hib the princefs remains at Zellj but the TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 347 the moment (he goes away, the qncen, as we were informed, becomes a prey to dejedlion and defpondency. The princefs exerts her- felf to prevent this, and devotes to her fifter all the time (he can fpare from the dulies (lie owes to her own family. After you quit Zell you travel for the re- maining eight pofts on a very difagreeable road to Hamburg. The bed place to ftop at is Welzendorf ; even there, however, the ac- commodations are poor, but one day's fad- ing will foon be forgotten in the luxury of Hamburg. HAMBURG. After having palled through fo many def- potic dates of Germany, where you are fub- jed: from the officers of the revenue to the mod difagreeable enquiries and vexatious de- lays, you feel a fenfation peculiarly agreeable on entering Hamburg, with (imply giving your name at the gates, without any examination or cudom-houfe embarralTments. The ^4^ TOUR THROUGH GERMA^^Yi The firfl: appearance of this free imperk? city is very difgufting and ugly. Mod of the (Ireets are narrow, clofe, and black, and the populace in them, generally fpeaking,- not very clean. As foon however, as a man has made his way into the principal houfes, he begins to conceive a more favourable opi- nion of the town. In the houfes of the rich merchants you fee tafte, cleanlinefs, magni- ficence, and at times even profufion. Their tabks are even better than thofe of the peo- ple of Vienna, Gratz, Prague and Munich, nor is there a place in the world where they have fo many refinements on the fenfual plea- fures as is in this. Though in few parts of Germany gardening is in as flouriflfing a fi:ate as it is here, yet they are not contented with the wonderful vegetables which their own country affords, but import many fpecies of them from England, Holland, and various parts of Germany. This is owing to fafhion, which has affixed a preference to the vege- tables which come from thefe countries. They get together from eaft, weft, north, and fouth, what every country produces pe- culiar to itfelf and coftly for the table. Equipages^ TO.UR THROUGH GERMANY. 3 {-9 Equipages, furniture, play tables, eveiy thing, in a word, is anfvverable to the ex- pence of the table. Few affemblies of Pari- fian people of faflilon, are more brilliant than the parties who meet in villas here, and they hardly play as high. Thofe who can afford to fpend no more than twenty or thirty thou- fand livres a year, rank among the middling clafs, and though ihey are all obliged to fup- port themfelves by their own induftry, and that there is fcarce any nobility with a ftated revenue to be met with, there are many fa- milies who fpend from forty to fifty or fixty thoufand livres a year in their houfekeeping, Notwithftanding all this love of good eat- ing^ tjie mind is not opprefTed and borne down by thf bocjy here as it is in the fouthern parts of Germany. The Hamburghers of the higher clafs are ftil! mere jovial, more happy, more converfible, and mqre witty, than the Saxons. You meet here with many Jitcrati of the firfl: clafs. Natural hiftory par- ticularly flourifhcs much, and is he|d in high ^ftimation. It was a Hamburgher who gave Jl^innseus the fundamental ideas of his Syftema** Naturae. As mofl of the young people jjre fcnt 2^0 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. fent abroad to form trading connexions in the feveral ports of London, Peterfburg, Calais, Bourdeaux, &:c. in all which the Hamburghers have houfes, a llranger is fure to meet with fome people who are acquainted with his native country. The Hamburghers upon the whole. are great travellers, w^hich renders the fociety of this place particularly lively and animated. The women of this place are handfome, genteel, and freer in their manners than they generally are in proteftant countries ; particu- larly there obtains a vivacity which a man is not iifed to look for in the north, and is a ftrong contrafl to the phlegm of Holland. One of ti:e great pleafures of this city arifes from the Aifterfiufs. It comes from the north, almoft through the middle of the city, and forms a lake in it, nearly eight hundred paces in circumference. In a fummer evening this lake is almoft covered over with gondolas, which have not fuch a melancholy afpect as the Venetian ones. Thefe are filled with family or other parties, and have often boats in atten- dance upon them with mufic. The whole has an aftoniihing good effect, which is ftill greater from there being a m.uch frequented public walk TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 35I t walk by the lake; the livelinefs of which cor- refponds very pleafingly with that of the people on the water. * Near the city there are foine villages on the Elbe called the Four Lands, which are alfo in fummer a notable rendezvous of pleafure. Ihe farmers who live in thefe villages are in very good circumftanccs, and take a prodigious fum of money from the town, for their excellent vegetables, particularly for their green peafc. Every day during the fummer you meet here with parties from the city, who are as confpi- cuous for their genteel appearance, as for their excefles in e:uing and drinking. The farmers daughters are very pretty, and their drefs hand- fome. They allure the young men of the city to their cots ; and many quarter themifelvcs here under the pretence of a milk diet, but in fact to be near their fweethearts, Thefe above mentioned four villages fupply . the town with vegetables butier, milk, hay, and many other things of the kind — alfo with moil of the women of pleafure, and moil of the fpinners. The city of Altona, which Hes at no great diftance from this town, alfo affords this peo- ple 352 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, pie many opportunities of amufing themfelves. The king of penmark, who^ from a jealoufy of Hamburg, endeavours by every means ia his power to make this place flourifhing, ap- pears to have it in his head to hurt the bro- thels and inns of the city, as well as the trade. Through his care ^Itona has, in a fhort fpace of time, from a fmall village, become a town of thirty-five thoufand inha- bitants, amongft whom, however, to fpeak freely, there are far too many rafcals. The country round about Hamburg, tho' a flat, is extremely pleafant ; the various and flouriQiing agriculture gives it a very gay ap- pearance ; the water, however, contributes much to the beauty. The river conduces ex- tremely to the advantage of this city, which by taking the laft toll, has almofl an illimited command over it. It is a mile and three quarters broad at Hamburg, and forms feve- ral iflands, on which they make parties of pleafure. The afpe(5l of this mighty river, ajways well filled with fhips, and in feveral parts containing very rich iflands, has a great dpal of majefly in it. ^Tis a pity that you enjoy TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 353 enjoy this magnificenl profped only from a few houfes in the ciry, Notwithftanding the quantity of water, and low fituation, the air of the place is extremely good ; this is owing to the cleanfing it receives from the ftrong winds which blow upon it from all quarters. The north wind is very dange- rous to the city, it impedes the courfe of the flream, and occafions many inundations which frequently fill the lower parts of the houfes with water, and do a great deal of mifchief to the country around. Hamburg is without comparifon the mofl: flourifhing commercial city in all Germany. Except London and Amllerdam, there is hardly a port in which you fee conftantly fo many (hips as you do here. The prefent bufi- nefs con(i(ls in great part of commiflion and carrying ; but; the proper and folid trade of the inhabitants is likewife very confiderable. Their principal trade is driven with Spain and France ; and they gain confiderably by the exchange with the former. Hamburg has hi- therto fupplied Spain with mod of its linens ; it alfo fupplies it with large quantities of iron, copper, and other articles which the ^ A a north 354 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. north produces. The Pruflians, Danes,Swedes, and Ruflians give themfelves a great deal of trouble to be the carriers of their own commo- dities to Spain ; but it is extremely difficult to turn trade out of an old channel, and many of the merchants of the north find the carrying trade of Hamburg too convenient, and in part alfo too profitable to them, for the prefent pro- prietors to be in any great danger of lofing this channel of trade. The fums advanced (lay too long at Cales, and when a country cannot pay itfelf in the commodities of that it trades with, the trade virith Spain is very troublefome. At prefent Hamburg is always in debt to Spain, for except in time of war, (when materials for fhip building, ammunition, &:c. make fome dif- ference) it carries more things out of the country than it furnifhes. Another reafon why that part of the northern exports will always go through the hands of the Hamburghers is, that they can pay for them quickly and regu- larly ; whereas the waiting for the fliips from the Havannah, without the return of which the Spanilh trade cannot go on, often puts the northern merchant to inconveniencies. Sugar cane is the great article which goes from TOUR THROUtTH GERMANY. 355 from Spain to Hamburg, by which the latter gains large fums. No nation has hitherto been able to vie with the Hamburghers in boiling and refining fiigars. The trade for thefe arti- cles extends through all Germany, Poland, and a great part of the north. Other important articles which Hamburg takes from Spain, and with which it drives a very confiderable trade in the north, are wine, fait, fruit and the like. Befides all thefe, manufactures of handker- chiefs, ratteens, and ribbons, apothecaries drugs, and the fifhery, form a very confidera- ble part of the trade of the country. There is no place in the world which contains finer and more cunning fpeculators than this does ; no circumfhances or moment favourable to a fingle article efcape them. The prefent war has JDrought them in aftonifliing fums. The enlightened and patriotic governors of this place omit nothing which can contribute to the extenfion of trade. Some years ago the profped: of advantage to their fellow citizens made them attempt to open a trade for them on the coaft of Barbary ; the Dutch were immedi- ately jealous of this, and made the king of Spain believe that the Hamburghers furnifiied A a 2 the 35^ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the Saracens with implements of war : the king, in confcquence, made feveral orders, which have (lopped the channel to the prefent mer- chants, whom however he cannot prevent from a much more profitable commerce with his own fubjedls. This ftate is furrounded on all fides by mighty rivals, of whom4jowever, the induftry, cunning, and the liberty of the inhabitants ever get the better. The Danifh government omits nothing that can hurt the country; nay it often feeks to hurt it without any profped of advan- tage to itfelf. One of the favourite projeds of the Danifh minifters is to unite the EafhSeato the German Ocean, by a canal joined to the Eyder. This would give a death-ftroke to the commerce of Lubeck and Hamburg; but the government and the intelligent part of the country are as eafy about this, as they would be if his Dan i fa majefty was to order a canal to be dug in Greenland. On the other lide, the king of Pruffia had, by his terrible taxes, cut off the communication of this country v/ith Saxony by the Elbe, which was a fevereftroke to both countries. What did the wife govern- ment here do ? It entered into a treaty of com- I merce TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 357 merce with Hanover and Brunfvvick, and laid the plan of a road between Saxony and this place. This foon convinced the king of Pruf- fm that his toll on the Elbe would be ruined fooner than the trade between Hamburg and Saxony, and forced him to lower it according- ly. Still however it is too high for the Saxons and Hamburghers, but muft continue for fome time within tolerable bounds. Notwithftanding all the impediments caft in the way of it, the trade of this country has been continually gaining ground during this century. No doubt, the immediate caufes have been the improvements in agriculture, ^he increafe of population, and the greater ap- proaches towards luxury, made by the inhabi- tants of the north. Liberty alone would how- ever in time have been fufficient to have re- moved many of the hindrances which hoftile neighbours fought to put in the way of the trade. Whilft the neighbouring powers were increafing their excife and cuftom-houfe duties, and by fo doing flopping up fo many channels of commerce to their fubjedls, here they were opening every door both of exports and im- ports ; and inftead of feeking to raife, were in- A a 3 venting 35^ TOUR THROUGH GERMA^TV. venting every polTible method to dimlnilh the taxes.. The fortunes of the inhabitants of this coun- try are in a conftant ftate of fluclation. The expenfivenefs of living is the reafon that there are very few rich houfes ; you can^hardly find any that has been fifty years in the fame ftyle of fplendour. The immenfe profits of this grand commercial country are fo well divided, that you cannot meet with above five perfons who poflefs a million ; but the number of houfes which have from three to fix hundred thoufand guilders, is extremely great. But then as foon as a merchant makes one hundred thoufand guilders, he mud have his coach and country houfe. His expences keep pace with his in- come, fo that the leafl: blow brings him back to poverty; from which, however, the fiighteft labour will extricate him again. Hamburg k truly fingular as a commercial city, in this re* fpedt, for you meet in it with perfons who have been bankrupts three or four times, and yet have returned to riches. The man who has three hundred thoufand florins, and makes more fhew with it, both in his trade and houfe- keeping, than many Amfterdamers who have many TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 359 many millions, lofes in a moment his country- houfe, his houfe in town, his palace, his vvare- houfe, his coach and gardens, and begins again as a broker ; but hardly are his old eftate and country houfe fold off, than he has another eftate, buys another country houfe, is able to drive through the town with two prancing Hol- ileiners before him, and has his garden, his coach, his gambling box, — till, heigh prefto ! he is a broker again. The inexplicable facility of making ufe of one's money, renders the Hamburgher here too bold ; fo that he does more bufinefs with fifty thoufand florins, than a Dutchman will do with two hundred thoufand ; but then he is more expofed to re- verfe of fortune than the Dutchman is. How- ever, the fecurity he is under of not being obli- ged to beg in his old age, renders him quite carelcfs. There are, indeed, no where fo good retreats for bankrupts as there are here. If broken merchants do not choofe to turn bro- kers and try their luck afre(h, they have em- ployments given them on which they may live Very comfortably. Befides thefe, there arc funds for the fupport of the poor burghers , words A a 4 which 360 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. which mean here bankrupts. There is no place, indeed, where the eftablifhments for the poor are on fo Iplendid a footing as they are here. Look were you will you fee that bankrupts have had a fhare in the legillation, and that they have fought to make themfelves and their pofterity fecure againft all evetns. The great and frequent revolutions in the commercial houfes of this place, give the mer- chant an alacrity which he has no where elfe in the world. The genius of trade does no where fo many wonders as it does here. The Ham- burghers far outdo the Dutch in happy calcula- tions, fpeculation; and fortunate hits ; and you meet with more true theory of trade amongft the brokers of this place, than there is to be found in many thick books written expreflly on the fubjed. The quicknefs and vivacity with which trade is carried on here, employs a larger capital than is put into it by the Dutch, who are more expert at faving money than at getting it. The Ham- burgher works himfelf up again with the fame eafe with which he falls ; whereas the Dutchman could not make his fortune without excefiive parfimony, and commonly fpeaking, is indebted only TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ';6l O onlytohisinduftryandfavingfor what he gets. Rich inheritances are very fcarce here, in com- parifon to the fum of money there is in the place, as this is divided amongft too many, and the ebbs and flows are too frequent. The great capital of every inhabitant is his induilry and underftanding. The unlimited credit of the bank of this place is a certain fign both of the riches of the flate, and of the right notions which prevail here with refped to every thing which has a relation to trade. The foundations on which this bank refts, are the fimplefl that can be imagined. There is neither paper nor any kind of coined money, but only a large quantity of filver, which is meafured out by the pound. It is however, the moft refpedled, and muil be the moft fecure of all the eftablilhments of the kind in the world. The government of Hamburg is wonderful; no commonwealth that has fo nicely hit off the juft mean betwixt ariftocracy and democracy, and fecured itfelf fo well againft the incon- veniencies of both, as this has done. The legiflative power is in the hands of the five px^rilhes of the city. The firft college, or firfl deputation 362 TOUR THROUGH CERMAXVi deputation of them, confifts of the alderfneft,- three of whom are chofen by the inhabitants of each parifh. Every parifh alfo fends nine per- fons to the fecond, which, with the former one, make a college of fixty. Finally, each pariQi contributes twenty-four to the third, making, when joined to the two former, a number of one hundred and eighty. The ordinary bufi- nefs is regularly brought by the council before this afTembly; but when there is a new law to be made, or a new tax to be raifed, after hav- ing pafTed this court, it muft farther be laid before a general aflembly of the burghers. The one hundred and eighty, together with fix af- fefTors added to them from each parifh, muR appear before this aflembly, in which every man who poflefles a houfe of his own, or an cftate that is out of debt, or a certain fum in fpecie above the value for which the houfe or eftate is mortgaged, may appear and give his vote. The miferable corporation fyilem, which, in other republics approaching towardsdemocracy, often leads to ridiculous, and often to very feri- ous and fatal excefles, has no influence here upon the Rate. No manufadurer can tyran^ 2 nizc TOUR THROUGH GERMANV. 36;^ nize over the people, as is the cafe in many other republican governments ; nor does the happinefs of the whole depend upon the will or caprice of a company of fkinners or barber lurgeons. Due provifion has alfo been made that the will of the mob, which often ovei turns the wifeft ordinances, and the mofh ufeful pro- jediis, in countries approaching fo nearly to the democratic form as Hamburg does, fhould noteafily domifcliief here. Before a law comes before a general alTembly of the people, it has been tried and approved by the wifer part of them, which renders it not difficult to gain over the reft to the good fide, as of courfe they will have confidence in legiflators originally nominated by themfelves. This legiflative aflembly is likewife fo numerous as to render it very difficult for a part to get the maftery over the whole, by the ufual democratic artifices. As thefe colleges are eftabliflied for a long time, and are noteafily changed, the members of them are well enough acquainted with the true circumftances of the commonwealth, to be able to lay before, both their refpeclive comu- nities, and the burghers in general aflembly, an accurate 364 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. accurate and jufl: account of the fenfe of every law, proclamation, or tax. The divifion of the burgherfocieties.according to parifl-jcs, has like- wife this farther advantage attending it, that family connexions do not {o eafily acquire a pre- judicial influence as they do in republics divid- ed into corporations or private focieties. If you will take the trouble to compare this con- ftitution with that of other commonwealths, many more advantage will immediately flrike you. The council in whofe hands the executive power is lodged, confifts of thirty-fix perfons, to wit, four burgomafters, four fyndics, twenty- four counfellors, and four fecretaries. Only the burgomafters and counfellors have votes. It eleds its own members by lot. The power being dire(fl:ed only towards the proper execu- tion of the laws in being, is unlimited, the na- tural confequence of which is, that both the courts of juftice and the police have a flrength here which they have in few republics that are fo democratic. Nor is government taken in hand here as in other countrys, by perfons who have no proper vocation to it. Three of the burgomafters, the counfellors, and all the fyndics TOUR THROUGH GERAMNY. 365 fyndicsand fecretaries, miift be graduated liter- ati, who have given proofs of their learning. One burgomafter and ten counfellors muft, con- fidently with the nature of the commonwealth, be merchants. The pay of the counfellors is fufficient to reftrain the fpirit of innovation. Honour, virtue and ability, are the moft likely foundations to fuceced in being eledled. When a counfellor abufes his power, he is obliged to leave the city. The number of counfellors is too fmall for the power of private families to be able to put a reftraint on the adminiftration of juftice and police. In a word, the legilla- tive power is gentle and popular as it cati be ; and the executive is, as it muji be, monar- chically ftrong. Hamburg is in truth the model of a well-regulated commonwealth. A mifapplication or wafte of the public treafure happens very feldom, and is almoft impoffible, as the perfons who are charged with the ad- miniftration of it, are no members of the council, but on the contrary are watched over with the greateft attention by them and the general afltmbly, and are obliged to the greateft punctuality. They confift of ten perfons fe- leded from the general afTembly, andarechofen out ^C6 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. out of each parifh, one by vote and the other by lor. Every fix years each of the three deputies lays his office down, and his parifh fends another in his Head. The reafon of the change is not as in other republics, that all may have a (bar of the cake, but to free the deputies from a trou- blefome and laborious office. The income of the ftate is very large. It is made up partly from ftandingfources of income, and partly from occafional taxes granted by the community. Some taxes are voluntary, and the burghers have the right to put what they think their quota into the purfe which is Ihut, and the deputies dare not open it in their prefence. Upon the whole the taxes are confiderable. In order not to let the mouth of the Elbe, on which the exiftence ot the country depends, be choked vp wuth fand, and for the maintenance of the feveral harbours in it, they have been obliged to raife fome taxes, which in appearance are beyond their means. The aggregate of them together makes about three millions of marks, or four millions of livres, and is hardly fuf? ficient for the purpofes required of them. The quick and conftant revolutions in the fortunes of every citizen fecure this common- wealth TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 76/ wealth ftill more than its conilitution from the mifchiefs of oligarchy and family plots. They know nothing here of domineering or dan- gerous houfes, from which none of the repub- lics of the prefent day are free. One llgn of the good government and wonderful adminiftra- tion of this commonwealth is, that it is almoft the only imperial city that carries none of the fuits between its own members before the tri- bunal of the empire* At Vienna they men- tioned to me feveral free imperial towns who had rendered themfeives dependant on the emperor, by carrying their private grievances before the emperor's court,, In the beginning of this century Hamburg itfelf was expofed to fome danger of this kind, but in 170S it was fup- prefled by the benevolent offices of the imperial court, and the zeal of feveral patriots of the place, and fince that time the tranquillity of the country has met with no interruption. The bands of fociety are too fait bound for there to be any caufe of uneafmefs about future events. On returning to Hanover you will probably wifh to dired your route to England by Ofna- burg, Munfler and Dufeeldorff. It 368 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. It is 92 miles to Ofnaburg, and the only refling place is Diepnaw, where there is one folitary Inn, which affords you no better fare than the wretched outfide promifes. You will however be confoled by the ac- commodations you^will meet wi that the Raifer, at Ofnaburg. Ofnaburg which is the capital of the bifhopric is pleafantly fituated on the ri- ver Fu, which divides it into two parts, called the old and new town, and over which there is a bridge, from whence it takes its name* It Hands in a fine plain, and is adorned with feve- raj good buildings. It is encompaffed with walls and ditches, but commanded by a moun- tain within cannon fhot, upon which there is an abbey. The bifhop's palace, called Peter/- burg, is well fortified, and feparated from the town by a bridge. It is a hexagon with a court in the middle, and at each corner a tur- ret. In the town-howfe are ftill preferved the pidures of the plenipotentiaries that aflifted at the conferences there for the famous treaty of Weji-phalia, In the treafure of the cathedral are ftill to be feen fome ornaments given by Charlemagne, who is faid to have ereded here a fchoolforL«//>/andGrd'£'^',whichtheJefuitsini625 con- TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 369 converted to an academy. They have the bed bread and beer that is to be met with in all JVeJiphalia, and have a pretty good trade in bacon and linen ; as alfo by brewing a palata- ble thick fort of beer called bufe. This city is noted for a treaty betwixt the Emperor and the King of Szveden in 1648, wherein the affairs of the proteftants were regulated, which was a branch of the treaty oi Wejiphalia. The town, with the principality, is fubjedl to its bifhop, who is a count of the empire, and by the treaty of JVeJiphalia, muft be alternately a proteftant and papift. The popifh bifhop is fuffragan to the archbifliop of Cologne, but the proteftant bifhop is indeed a temporal prince, and always of the houfe of Brnnfwick, in confideration of the principality of Halberjiat, which was taken from this houfe, and conferred upon the eled:or of Brandenburg ; it is at prefent the Duke of York the fecond Son of the King of England. From Ofnaburg it is three pofts, or 30 miles to Munfter, where there is a good Inn at the crown; it is as well as Ofnaburg the capital of the biihopric of the fame name ; it is fituated on the river Aa, and in its form is nearly cir- cular; the houfes are indifferent, and B b the 37© TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. the ftreets meanand irregular, the cathedral is heavily and clumfily adorned ; one pair of their filver candlefticks is eight feet high, they pre- tend to fhevv you here the fword borne by St. 'Paul. Nothing can be more wretched than the country you pafs through in travelling in Weft- phalia; the wretched inhabitants uniting pover- ty with pride, live with their hogs in mud wall- ed cottages, a dozen of which together is call- ed by courtefy, a village, furrounded by black heaths, and wild uncultivated plains, over which the unrefifted winds fweep with a veloci- ty fcarce to be conceived. The fole decoration of thi'^ deVafted country is the large quantity of majeftic timber trees, almoft all oak, living to each an age and fpread- ing their broad arms in venerable dignity; Qa.k is the common firing of the poor people, whofc cottages having no chimnies detain the fmoke a long time, before it makes its efcape at the door ; this fmoke gives the peculiar flavour to the bacon which hangs from the roof, and for which tlie Weftphalia hams are celebrated. Efcapmg from this miferable country in thir- ty five miles you will reach Douten, where you will TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 37I will find an excellent Inn at the poft houfe, and in thirty-feven -more you arrive at DufTel- dorff, where you will find an excellent Inn at the Cour de Saarbruck. DufieldorfT derives its name from the river Duflel which wafhes its walls. It is the capital of the Duchy of Berg, is well built, and tole- rably fortified ; the ftreets are in gen-eral broad, regular, well paved, and lighted, by night though but imperfectly; the houfes are of brick ; in the market place, and the parade, arc feveral handfome buildings. In the middle of the market place is the ftatue of the eledor «f John William, to whom Dufleldorff owes great part of its prefent beauty; the ftatue is of copper, and is the work of the Chevalier Krepelle. John William is reprefented on horfeback, the electoral hat on his head ; and holding in his right hand the baton of command ; the pe- deftal, which is nearly eleven feet high, is of grey marble, without ornament, and without infcription. In going out ofthe gate of Berg, you enter the ©ew town, which was built by the abovemen- tioned eledor^ who refided there ; it is entirely B b 2 conftruded 37^ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. conftruded on the Italian tafte ; the (Ireet is broad ; and it is unfortunate, the death of the eledor prevented him from completing the fur-^ ther improvements he had deligned. Garliladt, which joins the old city to the fouth,was founded by the prefentcledor Charles Theodore, whofe name it bears ; this city is di- vided into nine regular quarters, in the midftof which is a fpacious palace ; all the houfes are ereded on the fame plan ; and this uniformity has a very happy effed ; befides the new gate of Carlftadt the city has four others, the gate of Ruding, of Fling, of Berg, and of Rhine. This city has lately increafed much in po- pulation ; they reckon the inhabitants at eigh- teen thoufand including the garrifon ; this is compofed of three regiments of infantry, and one of cavalry, and an hundred artillery men: all the troops are lodged in barracks; the regi-^ ments are well difciplined ; the uniform is white faced with blue; this alteration has been intro- duced by Mr. Thompfon, minifter of war, an Engli(hman by birth. Since the court has been transferred to Mu- nich, there has been eflablifhed here a regency which has a prefident^and which adminifters the countries TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. ^73 countries of Berg and Juliers, who have their particular ftates, without whofe confenc the eledor cannot lay on any tax. The gallery of paintings is juftly celebrated. The building which contains thefe mafter- pieces of art has nothing remarkable in its ap- pearance, being conftruded by the order of the cledor John William as temporary, until a magnificent edifice which he had devifed could be executed. M. Bnelliot a ikillful artifb is in- fpedlor of the gallery and fhews it to Ilrangers ; there are three large apartments and two fmall- er ones all contiguous, each bearing a name relative to the ftile of the pi6tures ic contains, or alluding to the perfection of fome particular ones. — The firft apartment is called the Fle- mifli hall or gallery, on account of the many pictures of that fchool ; the fecond after the name of the famous painter Dow, as it contains his excellent pidure of a Quack ; the third is called the Italian hall; the fourth after Vander Werflf; and the fifth after Rubens. On entering the firfh gallery, the pidure that immediately ftrikes the eye from its won- derful expreflion and the beauty of its colour- ing^ is that of The wife andfoolijh virgins painted by Schalken in the year 1 700. This pidure pof- B b 3 fefles 374 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. leiTes the utmoft merit; the defign is beautiful, the diftribution of the figures excellent, the heads are particularly admirable, and the dif- ferent effects of light rendered with the utmoft ikill. In fliort this painting is a mafterpiece in which 'tis impoflible to difcover a blemidi. The next that ftrikes is an excellent pidlure of Jaques Jordaens, it is called Thefeaft ofkings^ and reprefenis a father of a family with his guefis fcated round a table giving way to the moft lively tranfports of innocent pleafurej; mirrh and fatisfaction is admirably exprefTed in all the figures, yet in different lliades and peculiar character ; this piece is remarkable for the freflinefs of its colouring;. In the middle of the Hall is a fine pidure by Gafpard Krayer,this piece which is 1 8 feet high, and II wide, was painted in 1646, and repre- fents. The faints addrejs to the queen of heaven : the virgin is feated under a canopy holding the infant Jefus who has a fcepter in his hand, and around are a number of faints kneeling. The diflribution of thcfe groups are beautiful, eve- ry face having a peculiar expreilion. In the fore ground Krayer has reprefented himfelf and family, kneeling and cloathed in mourning. I The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 375 The utmoft art and excellence of painting is difiDlaycd in the next pidure which is Chriji in the tomby by Vandike; the virgin is attempting to r^aife him from the earth : St. John is kneel- ing on the right fide, and holding the hand of our Saviour, while Mary Magdalen, rather be- fore x\)t tomb with clafped hands appears loft in forrow. Death is admirable reprefented on every part of the body of Chrift, which is not covered with the burial cloaths. Near the laft pidlure and over the door v/hich leads to the fecond gallery is the Invention of the holy crofs, by Gerard DoufTet. All the fi- gures of this piece pofTefs the moft admirable expreffion ; the beauty of the diflributiort, and the lingular and brilliant tafte that it difplays, might place it among the firil paintings in the hall, did it pofTefs more harmony and the co- lours and light were lefs fcattered. At the bot- tom are thefe words ; Amor ^ delicia generis humani Crux* The chafe of the wild hoar, in the moft critical moment of attack, by Francis Schenyers, is the next pi6ture ; the boar has already in 'his fury, torn out the bowels of feveral dogs which are laying dead around him. Oneof thehuntf- B b 4 men 37^ TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. men has plunged his lance in his flank ; an- other, on whom he is advancing, attempting to do the fame his lance breaks, and he fees himfelf expofed to the fury of the inraged animal. Nothing can be better or more naturally repre- fented than the fudden fear on his countenance. The other huntfmen are running to his affift- ance ready to fall on the boar, while the dogs who appear animated by the found of the horn feem eager to renew the attack. This pidure is remarkable for the flrength of its defign and exprefilon. — Rubens painted the figures of the five men it contains. On the fame fide is a Kermefs or Village feaftj painted by David Teniers, in 1651, and rec- koned among his beft works. In the fecond hall near the entrance is the much efleemed pidure by Gerard Dow which ^reprefents A village fair. The fcene is placed between a village and a caftle and before a fmall inn, on one fide of which you difcover a railed ftage covered with a turkey carpet. On this is placed different vefTels containing medi- cines ; alfo a barber's bafoh^ and a monkey ; a large umbrella covering the top of the whole. The TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 577 The Quack appears boafting the excellency of his remedies to the fpedlators ; his manner and figure is truly comic, and the crowd that fur- round him are liftening with the utmoft atten- tion to his harangue. The moft ftriking fi- gures are a woman in a black hat and a' pick- pocket, who, taking advantage of the profound attention in which ilie appears loft, is robbing her : a country man with a hare upon his back hanging to a ftick ; a woman felling cakes and fuckling a child, and a gardener wich vegita- bles in a barrow. G. Dow has introduced him- felf in this picture featedatawindow of the inn with a pallet and pencils in his hand looking at the fair. This piece is admirable ; the colouring dif- tributed with the utmoft nicety and flcill, and the whole inrerefting even in the moft minute particulars. Next is that mafter piece of Vandike's, The tomb of Chrift. This excellent painter appears to have exerted his utmoft genius in this pic- ture ; the virgin is reprefented feated by the crofs, which lays on the ground and near the opening of the rock in which is the fepulchre : before 37S TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. before her ftretched on the fpread burial cloth is the dead Saviour, whofe head leans upon her bolbm, and right hand is dropped on her knee; opprefled with grief, her hand is raifingthat of her Ton ; while her eyes bathed in tears are turn- ed towards heaven and appear to implore its affillance; at her feet are the crown of thorns and the nails : on the left fide are three angels who contemplate this fcene with tears, and on the right a group of cherubims who feem equally aiflided. In the back is a view of Jerufalem, with the horrizon ftrongly obfcured, Jn (hort it is impoffible to fee a more ftriking picture; Pigage fpeaks of it as follows- — '^ This pifture perfect in its compolition, corredlion, defign, colouring, carnation, and touch of the pencil, is alfo fublime in its expreflion, infpir- ing real tendernefs and forrow. The body of Jefus Chrifl which fixes the principal intereft, preferves the charader of the God man; you fee at once that the body is incorruptible, the vital fpirits which have abandoned the extremi- ties appear to be reuniting in the center in order to fpring forth in a new and eternal courfe. This painter is perhaps the only one who ever thought of expreffing in this manner the ap- proaching TOUR THROUGH GERMANY, 379 proaching revivification of Chrift, others hav- ing always reprefented him with the ordinary appearance of death''. This accounts for the critical obfervations of fome who complain that the colouring and carnation of the body of Ghrift is much too lively. A little farther is another pidure by the fame mafter, reprefenting The Virgin and J ejus; this piece is extremely beautiful, and appears to re- unite the expreffion of Raphael, the graces of Corregio, and the touch of Titian. Above the laft is the portrait of Vandike, by himfelf. This artiil is reprefented in a black fatin habit, a cloak of the fame colour, and on his neck the golden chain which was prefentcd him by Charles the Firfl, while he was imploy- ed in England by that prince. The genius which animated him is vifible in the traits of this portrait, and fparkles in his eyes; the beauty of its manner, and the warmth of its colouring render it precious. This apartment contains twenty-two pictures by this mafter which are reckoned among his beft works. I cannot pafs over two other of his piclureSj, the one of St. Sebajiian, the other of Sufannah : the head of the holy Martyr perfedly exprelTes the q8o tour through GERMANY. D the firmnefs and courage of a chriflian hero. Sufannah is leaving the bath and is feated near a fountain ; the elders have juft furprifed her, on which (he is endeavouring to conceal himfelf with a veil ; the two feducers have an air of en- treaty and perfuafion ; the hand of one grafps her fhoulder as if to fecure his prey. The majfacre of the innocent y by Luc Jordan, is a mafler piece of expreffion, nor can it be looked on without (liuddering. Every pafTion is perfonified in this pidure ; fury, grief and cruelty are reprefented in all forms : I left the painful contemplation of this painting to enter the Italian gallery. The firft pidure that attraded my attention was the Holy family by Raphael; the utmoft ge- nius and ikill are vifible in this painting, which is inconteflibly one of the befl of that admired artifls. I (hall not enter into a defcription of ir, for 'tis abfolutely necelTary %o fee it to form an adequate idea of its beauties : the defign is exquifite, the draperies admirably natural, and the colours mixed with a harmony and precifion that delights the eye : the head of St. Jofeph particularly poiTefles the utmoft expreffion. The next pidure is by xhe fame hand and reprefents TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 381 reprefcnts St, John in foliUide, this piece is rec- koned the mafter piece of Raphael, St. John is aslargeaslife, and without other covering thana tiger ficin which is throv/n over his (houlders ; he is feated at the foot of a rock from which ifTues a fpring ; in his right hand is a ftick that terminates in a crofs, and in his left a (hell full of water. His head which is turned towards the fpring is extremely beautiful; the carnations, the play of the mufcles, the pofition of the body are all perfedly natural. In the back ground is a pleafing landfkip^ in the midft of which is a fmall temple with a rotunda and columns, and beyond it a high mountain. Over the laft mentioned is a pidlure of The Virgin, by Charles Dolci ; this piece has the finell effe(5l, nothing can be more pleafing, foft, corred:, or better painted ; the virgin is feated by a table on which is a bafket of flowers; in her left hand are a lily and a pink ; her head is turned towards her fon, who is {landing naked upon the table fupported by her right hand. The holy infant has in his left hand a bunch of rofe buds, and his right is liftqd up as if to ex- prefs joy at the fight of the flowers. The figure of Mary expreiTes at once humility, tendernefs^ foftnefs,.. 38a lOUR THROUGH GERMANY, foftnefs, candour, and innocence. That of Jefus a mixture of infantile gaiety and wifdom that fufficientlycharaderifes the faviour of the world. Fronting this piece is the Ecce Homo of the immortal Antony Allegri, commonly called Corregio. This painter has united fo much ftrength, exprefTion and truth in the head of Chrift,thatit is irapolfible to look on this picture without giving way to the fofteft emotions. The majfacre of the innocents^ by Annibal Carra- chi, prefents a picture of fublime horrors; this painting is executed with the utmoft warmth and ftrength of genius, is excellently defigned, and yet better grouped. The holy family^ by Andre del Sarto, is after the manner and perhaps an imitation of Raphael. Del Sarto perfe611y underftood the language of the foul, every one of the figures prefents their proper charaderiftic exprefTion ; the whole be- ing executed with that exquifite harmony and foftnefs that at once charms the heart and eye. The next picture is a kind of caricature by Lucas Jordan ; it is The temptation of Chrifl, The Saviour is feated on the point of a rock, and Satan under the figure and drefs of a monk is reprefented tempting him : the devil has a parcel TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 383 parcel of ftones in the flap of his robe, under which^you dilcover flames ; this whimfical idea is extremely well executed. On the fame fide againft the principal wall is the Sufannah, of Domnique Zampieri, the Do- minician. This pidure is eight feet three in- ches high, and ten feet feven in width, and in my opinionis one of the beil in the gallery. The fcene is fixed in front of a fmall wood, behind -which you fee the tops of different antique build- ings, and near a fountain whofe bafon is fupport- ed by groups of children. Behind the fountain is an opening that leads to a flight of flairs and fmall railing; with a door : here Sufannah is feated, having juft left the bath. Her figure is perfectly beautiful and appears about eighteen. The eiders have left the wood and juft reached her, their lafcivious eyes already devouring the beauties expofed to their fight : the hand of one has feized the veil with which (he attempts to conceal herfelf. The figure of Sufannah expreffes fear, embarraffment and modeRy, {o juftly that I almoft fancied 1 heard her cry of furprife and terror. In the fourth hall, called that of Vander Werff, the firft pidure that ftrvick me was the Afcenjion 3^4 TOUR THROUGH GERMAxNY. Afcenfion of the holy Virgin^ by Guido Reni. The height of this painting is nine feet two by feven and a half wide, and is painted on taffety. Guido appears to have furpafTed his ufual excellence in the conception and execu- tion of this piclcre. The virgin is rifmg in the iitmoft: fplcndour to the throne of her fon, her radiant figure pofieffes per- fect beauty, and feems to exprefs the {^rx- timents fhe muft feel at that glorious moment. Four angels are proftrate at her feet holding the ends of her robe ; the mofl exquifite har- mony reigns throughout this picture. You next are flicwn twenty-five pictures by Vander Werff, and which conftitutethe princi- pal ornament of this gallery, that owes its ex- iftance to the encouragement the eledlor John William gave to the fine arts. This prince, whofe generofity equalled his underftanding, negledled nothing to encourage talents, attrad- ing to the court by his liberality numbers of celebrated artifls. Vander Werff received from him an annual apointment of twenty thoufand florins, and was only bound to work fix months for that fum. His pictures were alfo extreme- ly TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 385 ly well paid, the little ones bringing him ten thoufand florins and the large ones twenty. Almoft all the pidures of this artift are of the fame fize, about two foot and half by one foot nine inches. They are particularly ef- t^emed for their night fcenes which are ex- tremely beautiful, alfo their carnations and the corredtnefs in their execution. All that can be found fault with in this painter is fometimes a carekflhefs in his defigns relative to the fize of his figures. His principal pi6lures are, Sa- rah prefenting Hagar to Abraham — Abraham fend- ing away Hagar and IJmael — the allegoric pic- ture in which Vander Werffhas introduced in Medallions the portraits of the elector of John William and his fpoiife Mary of Medecis — ""the vijitation cf the Virgin — ^e Birth of Chrifl — l^he prefentation in the teynple — Jefis in the midfl of the doElors — VEcce homo — Jefiis Chrifl on the crofsy and Chrifi in the tomb. The three laft are particularly beautiful. In this apartment are alfo nine paintings by Reimbrandt, and a Roman triumph by Polidore Carravaggio ; this lafl: mentioned is very an- cient but admirably painted. On entering the fifth apartment, which is called the gallery of Rubens, a fentiment of C c mingled ^86 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. mingled admiration and refped feized me — How was it poffible, thought I, that a man like Rubens who had fo many public duties to ful- fil, who frequently travelled, and was the me- diator between contending powers, could in the fpace of forty years accomplifli or even defign, the number of charming pieces that are fcat- tered over Europe in his name, and which con- noiffeurs reckon at two thoufand. Yet more, how could this man find time to cultivate the mufes; writing, among others, a poem in twen- ty-four cantos to Mary of Medicis, which is by no means devoid of merit. I was fhook from thefe reflexions on calling my eyes on his painting of the Loft Judgment ; this painting is eighteen feet nine, by fourteen feet. The de- fign of this pidure is beyond conception admi- rable ; the moft exquifite harmony reigning in every part. On the left fide are the damned precipitating into the abyfs, and on the right the eled rifmg in glory to the fky. Jefus Chrift as judge is feated on a cloud furrounded by faints and angels, and above him Gpd the Father and the Holy Ghoft. Majefty, the fe- verity of a Judge, and the beneficence of a God are at once difplayed on his features. The I Virgin TOUR THROUGH GERMANY* 387 Virgin is feated on his right hand and appears imploring his clemency, while St. Michael, with two angels who hold the fatal trumpet, are rif- ing towards the grand Judge, Mofes and St. Petre arc ingenioufly reprefented as the leaders of the Saints of the old and new teftament. The moft extatic joy and perfed fatisfadion reigns on the faces of the juft, which isftrong- ly contrafted by the mifery, fear, grief, and dif- pair on thofe of the wicked. Ruben's idea of placing a negro among the eled is worthy his genius, and announces at once both philofophy and a fentim.ent of humanit)^ the more praife worthy, as it was uncommon in the age in which he lived. Among the number of the elefl he has alfo placed his fecond wife, nor has he forgotten himfelf though reprefented with an air of doubt as if uncertain to which fide he appertained. In the fore ground of the pidure are the dead rifing at the found of the trumpet, fome ad- vancing towards the Judge with confidence and joy, others lingering with fear and horror. The more you contemplate this pidure the more you muft admire its wonderful execu- tion. C c 2 In 388 TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. In the next pidlure Rubens has reprefented himfelf feated, his right hand on the guard of his fword, and his left on his knees which are croffed. His firft wife is feated rather lower, her hand alfo refting on the knee of her hufband. Tendernefs and fatisfa6tion are in every trait of this charming pair ; the figure of Rubens particularly announ- ces ftrength, health, energy, and genius : they are both in rich Spanifli drefles. This picture is remarkable for its freflinefs, the beauty of its colouring and the juftice cf its carnations; in fhort ^tis nature itfelf under the faireft appearance. The death cf Seneca is another maflerpiece of expreffion. The philofopher is naked, with his feet in a brafs bafon full of water, whofe colour is tinged with blood. Life appears to be leaving him by infenfible degrees, a deadly palenefs and weakne/s being fpread over his w^hole figure, notwithflanding which genius and philofophy flill animate his features, and his lafc words appear to be dictating to one of his difciples, who is kneeling by his right fide. On the left is the furgeon who has opened his veins, and who yet holds his arm to open another. Tv/o agents of defpotifm, placed rather behind him, have alfo their eyes fixed on the expiring philofopher. 2 Againfl; TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. 389 Againft the wall is the portrait of a General of the order of St. Francis in Spain. He is repre- fented in the habit of his order, in his right hand he has a book, and in the left a fcull. This pic- ture appears to breathe, and is particularly ad- mired for the beauties of its light and fhade. The next piece by Rubens is no lefs admir- able : it is the Virgin and infant JeftiSy with a kind of border formed by eleven winged angels, who hold a garland of flowers, v/hich produces a beautiful cffefl. Rubens has exerted his utmoft genius in this picture, both in the diverfity, fhade, and colouring; as alfo in the delicacy and beauty of the groupes placed between the flowers. On the fame fide is the Flight of the Amazons. It was this ineflimable piece that gave rife to the foundation of the gallery. The Eledlor John William purchafed it by chance, and was fo greatly pleafed with it, that he refolved to make . this collection of paintings which are now valued at four million of crowns, A Landfkip with a rainbow by Rubens. I pre- fer this piece to ail thofe of the fame kind in the gallery. Notwithflanding it is faid to have cofl fmall $gO TOUR THROUGH GERMANY. fmall pains to its artift, who is reported to have painted it in a day. The next is the Precipitation of Sinners into Hell, f his piece is alfo by Rubens, is eight kct eleven inchesi by fix feet ten, 'and prefents at once a mod ftriking but terrible effect. What rich- nefs in the diftribution, what ftrength, what ex- prefTion in the reprefentation of this dwelling of horror and defpair ! What an amazing genius and innagination has this great painter difplayeci in the pourtraying the torments of the damned. St. Michael, attended by feveral other angels, is defcending on a ray of light, and plunging the condemned into hell. Numbers are already a prey to the fury of the fiends ; torrents of fire is burfting on them from every part ; the flames, which are in fome parts blue, and in others red or fulphureous, feem to rufh eagerly towards them. Nothing can pofTibly be more llriking than this picture. After having gratified your tafte with the fur- vey of the picture gallery, at DuiTeldorf, you may return to England either by Cologn and Oftend, or continue your Tour through the Low Countries, of which a defcription has already been publifhed. FINIS. ^^^^m^''^''^^m^mm