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 AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 EMBASSY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 DUTCH EAST-INDIA COMPANY, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 COURT OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA, 
 /;/ the Years 1794 and 1795; 
 
 (SUBSEQUENT TO THAT OF THE EARL OF MACARTNEY.) 
 
 CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION Of 
 
 SEVERAL PARTS OF THE CHINESE EMPIRE, 
 
 UNKNOWN TO 
 
 EUROPEANS; 
 
 TAKEN FROM THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 ANDRE EVERARD VAN BRAAM, 
 
 MANY YEARS CHIEF OF THE DIRECTION OF THAT 
 COMPANY, AND SECOND IN THE EMBASSY. 
 
 TRANSLATED TROM THE ORIGINAL OP 
 
 M. L. E. MOREAU DE SAINT- MER1~. 
 
 With a correEl Chart of the Route, 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 L O N D O N: ; 
 
 PRINTED FOR. R. PHILLIPS, NO. 71, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH- 
 YARD, AND SOLD BY J. DEB RETT, PICCADILLY; LEB 
 AND HURST, PATERNOSTER-ROW; AND BV 
 ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. 
 
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 ^V 
 
 
 
A N 
 
 AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT 
 
 i » 
 
 OF THE 
 
 EMBASSY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 DUTCH EAST-INDIA COMPANY, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 COURT OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA, 
 hi the Years 1794 and 1795; 
 
 (SUBSEQUENT TO THAT OF THE EARL OF MACARTNEY.) 
 
 CONTAINING A DISCRETION OF 
 
 SEVERAL PARTS OF THE CHINESE EMPIRE, 
 
 UNKNOWN TO 
 
 EUROPEANS-, 
 
 TAKEN FROM THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 ANDRE EVERARD VAN BRAAM, 
 
 MANY YEARS CHIEF OF THE DIRECTION OF THAT 
 COMPANY, AND SECOND IN THE EMBASSY. 
 
 TRANSLATED T ROM THE ORIGINAL OP 
 
 M. L. E. MOREAU DE SAINT-MERl'. 
 
 With a correal Chart of the Route. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 L O N D O N: ; 
 
 PRINTED FOR R. PHILLIPS, NO. 7 1, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH' 
 
 YARD, AMD SOLD BY J. DEB KETT, PICCADILLY; LEE 
 
 AND HURST, PATERNOSTER-ROW; AND BY 
 
 ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 I 79 3. 
 
14 A 
 
 ■ - m 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 OF THE EMBASSY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 DUTCH EAST-INDIA CO MP ANT 
 
 TO THE COURT OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA, 
 
 IN THE TEARS 1 794 AND 1 795. 
 
 January 31, 1795. 
 
 X H E Ambaflador and I fet off this morning; 
 at five o'clock in little carts, in order to repair 
 to the Imperial refidence. It being too dark for 
 the driver of mine to diftinguim objects, he over- 
 turned me in a ditch, when we had been about 
 half an hour on our way. Fortunately, as the ice 
 was thick, I received no injury. I quitted the 
 carriage, and got into the road. Another was 
 provided for me, and my firft driver was dif- 
 miffed. 
 
 The Mandarins, our conductors, exprefTed 
 
 much fatisfactioH at my not being hurt ; for they 
 
 Vol. II. £ are 
 
 427234 
 
2 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCI? 
 
 are refponfible for any misfortunes we may ex* 
 perience, even fuch as affe£t our exiftence : for 
 if any of us mould accidentally lofe his life, he 
 confequences of that event would be fuch as to 
 endanger their own. 
 
 After being an hour on the road, we were con- 
 dueled through a back gate within the walls. 
 We were then fhewn into an apartment at no- 
 great diftanee to the fouth, there to wait for break 
 of day. That moment being come, we pro- 
 ceeded by a winding road, lined with large trees,, 
 towards- a great open fpace in a wood, where a 
 large tent of the Tartar kind, in the form of a 
 dome, had been pitched for the Emperor. A 
 fquare yellow tent was erected in the front of the 
 other, while fix little bell-tents, which flood on 
 the two fides, were deftined for the Miniftcrs and 
 Grandees of the Court. 
 
 The Emperor's tent was exaelly iimwar in the 
 infide ro the halls which I have feveral times had. 
 occafion to mention, and in the middle was an 
 eftrade and a throne. I remarked that the in- 
 ftruments-and other appendages of the mufic had 
 been conveyed hither from Pe-king. 
 
 His Majefty eame a little after fun-rife in a 
 
 palanquin 
 
EMBASSY TO CHiNA IN 1794 — £. .3 
 
 palanquin borne by four Mandarins of the gold 
 button. He alighted under the yellow tent, and 
 went on foot to his arm-chair. As foon as he 
 was feated, all the guefts performed the falute of 
 honour. The Envoys fat upon cufhions placed 
 upon a carpet under the yellow tent in front of 
 the Emperor's, with little breakfaft-tables before 
 them as at the preceding///?;. 
 
 After the Emperor's table was ferved, the 
 fmall tables were likewife uncovered, each con- 
 futing of fifty difhes, as on the 20th of this month. 
 I perceived all the guefts fall to with a great 
 deal of eagernefs and appetite, while we con- 
 tented ourfel ves with a little fruit, and with view- 
 ing the reft of the company. His Majefty again 
 fent us a diih from his, and fhortly after a diih of 
 the milk of beans was prefented to each of the 
 guefts* 
 
 The Emperor's breakfaft being over, we went 
 with the three Corean AmbafTadors to repeat, as 
 upon former occafions, the falute of honour 
 before the throne, with our heads covered. His 
 Majefty himfelf then prefented us with a glafs of 
 Chinefe wine, with the tafte of which I was much 
 pleafed. He afked the Ambaflador if he were 
 not very cold, and enquired of me> whether in 
 
 B 2 the 
 
 42*22^4 
 
4 VOYAGE OF THE DtTTCIf 
 
 the whole courfe of my life I had ever been pre- 
 fent at fuch ceremonies before: As foon as the 
 interpreter had conveyed to him our anfwers, we 
 returned to our feats. 
 
 While all this was paffing, the orcheftra exe- 
 cuted feveral pieces of mufic ; feats of fleight 
 and activity were performed ; and at a little dis- 
 tance a play was reprefented. Thefe various 
 entertainments produced a confufion that foon 
 fatigued the mind, and banifhed every idea of 
 amufement. 
 
 The Emperor being gene, every one rofe and 
 followed his example. We were then conducted 
 towards a ferpentine canal, there to wait for the 
 arrival of the two principal Minillers, who were 
 not long before they made their appearance. 
 We advanced a few ileps to meet them, and 
 faluted them in the European manner. 
 
 The Vao-tchong-tang fpoke to us with the 
 greateft air of kindnefs, and^ gave orders for 
 our being conducted to the place whither he was 
 going himfelf. He fet off upon a fled, and we 
 followed him in another. After being drawn a 
 confiderable diftance, we came to the front of a 
 building: which the Minifters entered. We alfo 
 alighted and followed them, palling through 
 
 feveral 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. £ 
 
 feveral apartments which, according to the 
 
 Chinefe cuftom, conftantly opened into each 
 
 other. They were all decently fumifhed. 
 1 
 
 Upon coming to a little pool that was en- 
 tirely thawed, the Minifters flopped to make us 
 remark a number of gold fifti of an extraordinary 
 fize ; for the fmalleft was about fifteen inches 
 long, and the reft a great deal larger. We were 
 allured that thefe beautiful animals were ex- 
 ceedingly old. 
 
 Hence we were fhewn into all the little apart- 
 ments which constitute the Emperor's daily ha- 
 bitation. They are very numerous, of fmall 
 dimenfions, neatly fqrnifhed in the Chhiefe 
 tafte, and containing a few books and fome very 
 valuable curiofities. Three only of thefe apart- 
 ments can boaft of European time-pieces. Each 
 room has a fofa for the Monarch, as alfo a couple 
 of ftools, but no fuch thing as a chair. 
 
 After having examined this edifice, the Prime 
 Minifter ordered the Naa-fan-tayen to carry us to 
 lee fome other buildings. We then took leave 
 of that worthy Minifter, in order to follow our 
 conductor. 
 
 B 3 After 
 
6 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 After a quarter of an hour's walk along a 
 high road, we came to a vaft and magnificent 
 palace, in the front of which is a very extenfive 
 fquare. On each fide of this fquare is a fpacious 
 paved court, correfponding with one of the wings 
 of the building. Thefe wings feem intended as 
 lodgings for the officers of the court, and the 
 inferior Mandarins. Two pedeflals of white 
 marble ftand in the middle of the court-yards, 
 and fupport two very large bronze lions, which 
 may be confidered as well executed by the artift, 
 becaufe they accord with the idea that the 
 Chinefe form of that animal, which is entirely 
 unknown in their country. 
 
 The firft hall in the front of the building is 
 very large, and hung with a great many lanterns, 
 in the Chinefe fafhion. In the middle of it, as 
 in the other halls I have defcribed, is an eftrade, 
 and an arm-chair, or Imperial throne. After 
 having crofted this hall, we found ourfelves 
 in an inner paved court, of a fquare form. The 
 buildings on the north and weft fides of this 
 court afford as rich and as beautiful a view as 
 the eaftern facade we firft came to j while on 
 the fouth fide there is nothing but a great gate 
 leading into it, with offices for fervants at each 
 end. 
 
 Within 
 
EMBASSY TO CHrNA IN I794 5. J 
 
 Within this gate, which correfponds with the 
 •north front, {lands, as it were to maik it, a 
 large rock of one entire piece upon -a number 
 of ftones that ferve it as a bafe. The carriage 
 of this rock mud have occasioned .immenfe trouble 
 and labour, as well as the operation of placing 
 It upon its bafej for its hulk and weight confti- 
 tute a prodigious mafe. Every fide of it is ho- 
 noured with inferiptions in the Emperor's own 
 hand, and in that of feveral other perfons of 
 the higheft rank who have imitated the example 
 of the Monarch. In fev,eral parts of it are alfo 
 ^warf trees and fknvei -e. 
 
 Within tins court, at the middle of the north 
 front, ftand two little ftags, and two cranes, all 
 of bronze, and of indifferent execution. The 
 north fide of the building contains an Imperial 
 audience chamber withua throne in the centre, 
 and lanterns in every part. Our conductor 
 pointed out to us tije coach of which Lord Ma- 
 cartney made a prefent to the Emperor lad year, 
 ftanding againft the walJ on the left fide of the 
 throne. It is exquifitely painted, perfectly well 
 varnifiied, and the whole of the carriage is co- 
 vered with gilding. The harnefs and the reft of 
 the equipage are in the body of the coach, which 
 is covered with a linen cloth. I perceived on the 
 B 4 oppoiite 
 
5 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 oppofite fide of the hall a thing which made a re- 
 markable contraft with this fplendid vehicle, that 
 is to fay a Chinefe waggon with four wheels of 
 equal height, very clumfy, painted green all over, 
 and in every refpect refembling the waggons ufed 
 in Holland for the purpofe of carrying manure. 
 
 I confefs this fight fet my imagination to work. 
 Was this waggon placed here with a view of 
 oppofing the idea of its utility to that of the fu- 
 perfluity of a carriage fo fumptuous, at leaft ac- 
 cording to the eftimation of the Chinefe? I was 
 thus giving way to my conjectures, when I was 
 told that the waggon is the very fame that is 
 made ufe of at the annual ceremony when the 
 Emperor pays a folemn homage to agriculture 
 in the Temple of the Earth. Behind this hall are 
 feveral fmail apartments which the Emperor oc~ 
 cupies when refident here. 
 
 After paffing through thofe apartments we 
 came to the third range of buildings or weftern 
 edifice which has only a fmall hall in the centre. 
 The remainder is compofed of a great number of 
 little confined and irregular rooms, opening into 
 one another, and forming all together a fort of 
 labyrinth. 
 
 When 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. $ 
 
 When we had infpected the whole of them, 
 the Mandarin uihered us into the favourite ca- 
 binet of the Emperor, which bears the name of 
 Tien (Heaven). It is indeed the moft agreeable 
 place of thofe that have been fhewn us; as well 
 on account of its fituation, as of the different 
 views which it commands. Nothing can equal 
 the profpect that the Emperor may enjoy when, 
 fitting in his arm-chair, he turns his eves towards 
 a large window confifting of a lingle pane of 
 glafs — a profpett of which the reader will himfelf 
 be able to form an idea from the fequel of this 
 defcription. This cabinet is in a part of the 
 building fituated upon an extenfive lake which 
 waihes its walls. 
 
 This lake was the firft object that attracted 
 our attention. In the midft of it is an ifland of 
 confiderable magnitude, on which feveral build- 
 ings have been erected that are dependencies of 
 this Imperial relidence, and overihadowed by 
 lofty trees. The ifland communicates with the 
 adjacent continent by a noble bridge of feven- 
 teen arches, built of hewn ftone, and ftandin^ 
 on the eaftern fide. This bridge was the next 
 thing that our eyes refted upon. 
 
 Turning 
 
lO VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Turning to the weftward, the fight is gratified 
 by the view of a lake fmaller than the former, 
 and only feparated from it by a wide road. In 
 the midft of it is a kind of citadel of a circular 
 form, with a handfome edifice in its centre. 
 Thefe two lakes communicate by a channel cut 
 through the road that divides them, while a 
 {tone bridge of confiderable height, and of a fingle 
 arch, fupplies the defect in the communication 
 by land which that channel occafions. 
 
 Still further to the weftward, and at a great 
 Pittance, the eye is arrefted by two towers {land- 
 ing on the tops of lofty mountains. 
 
 To the north-weft ftands a magnificent range 
 of edifices belonging to temples, conftrucied at 
 the foot, in the middle, and upon the fummit of 
 a mountain entirely formed by art, with frag- 
 ments of natural rocks, which, independently of 
 the expence of the buildings, muft have coft im- 
 menfe fums, fmce this kind of ftone is only to be 
 found at a great diftance from the place. This 
 •work feems to reprefent the enterprize of 
 the giants who attempted to fcale the Heavens: 
 at lead rocks heaped upon rocks recal that an- 
 cient fiction to the mind. The aftemblage of the 
 buildings and piclurefque embellishments of the 
 
 mountains 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. II 
 
 mountains afford a view of which the pen can 
 give no adequate idea. It is not then without 
 reafon that this cabinet is the favourite apart- 
 ment of the aged Monarch. 
 
 The infide of it is furnifhed with a library, 
 and (helves on which are collected all the mod 
 valuable and fcarce Chinefe productions, confid- 
 ing both of precious ftones and antiques; and 
 certainly they are highly deferving of the attention 
 with which we examined them. 
 
 After having pafled a confiderable time in this 
 building with real pleafure, we came to the fouth 
 front, where we found a fled, which conveyed 
 us towards the Temples that I have mentioned 
 above. 
 
 They are five feparate pagodas ; two are at the 
 foot of the mountain; one fronting the north, 
 the other the fouth. Two others are tituated near 
 its middle and in the fame pofition ; and the 
 fifth is upon its fummi-t. 
 
 The lower temple fronting the fouth contains 
 an idol, which is the image of fenfuality. It is 
 very large, and entirely gilt. It reprefents a 
 perfon of enormous corpulence, fitting upon a 
 
 cuftiion, 
 
12 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 cufbion, with an air expreflive of fatisfaction 
 and gaiety. In this pagoda there are befides a 
 great number of other idols, but of fmaller di- 
 menfions and lefs importance. 
 
 In the fouth temple in the middle of the 
 mountains the principal idol is the figure of a 
 woman, about fixty feet high, with fix faces and a 
 thoufand arms, like that of the Temple of Tay- 
 jay-tin at Pe-king, of which I made mention the 
 /day before yefterday. 
 
 This temple forms, as it were, a nave and two 
 aifles, by means of two rows of fupports or pillars 
 Standing lengthwife. All along both the walls 
 and the pillars are imitations of rocks, with ca- 
 vities containing idols and faints by hundreds, 
 and compofing altogether a fpetlacle of a very 
 fingular and linking kind. 
 
 From this part of the mountain to which we 
 had afcended by at leaft a hundred and twenty 
 ileps, we climbed towards its fummit by means 
 of a path winding between rocks, and of forty 
 eight more fteps, the fhorteft of which were a 
 foot in height. Hence we difcovered Pe-kiitg 
 in the fouth-eaft, and in the intermediate ground 
 could diftinguifh feveral habitations or eftablifh- 
 
 ments* 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. 13 
 
 ments, which are fo many dependencies of Yuen- 
 ming-yuen. 
 
 The fifth temple is upon the fummit of the 
 mountain j its conftruclion is in many refpe&s 
 fimilar to that of a tower, and in it we found 
 three images in a fitting pofture of enormous fize, 
 and entirely gilt. Thefe are the principal idols 
 of the temple. In one of the lower ftories, and. 
 oppofite thefe great images, are nine goddeffes- 
 alfo fitting and gilt, but much fmaller, while on 
 each fide are nine bronze flatues of faints, all of 
 eoloffal fize, and very well executed. 
 
 The walls behind the great idols are covered 
 from one end to the other by large pannels, each 
 of which contains feveral hundred figures of gods 
 made of bronze, and placed in fmall niches. 
 The outer walls of the temple are coated with 
 varniflied bricks, fuch as I have defcribed in 
 fpeaking of theTemple of Houing-oa-tzu in the Im- 
 perial palace of Pe king, and having like thofeof 
 that temple the figure of a Jos in bas-relief "in the 
 middle. 
 
 Having taken a fufneient view of this laft 
 temple, we defcended the north fide of the moun- 
 tain by ftcps of rugged (tones, and came to the 
 
 temr?!e 
 
14 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 temple mid-way up the mountain, and fronting 
 the north. Its principal idol is gilt all over, and 
 reprefents a goddefs with a number of arms. 
 The lower part of this temple, like the fecond 
 which we vifited, is divided into three portions ; 
 and on the walls and pillars are an imitation of 
 clouds, full of images of Jos, which produce 
 upon the whole a pleating effect. 
 
 From this temple we defcended to the lower 
 one fronting the north, in which is a colloiTal 
 goddefs about ninety feet high, with four faces 
 and forty-four arms. On each fide, but ftanding 
 a little forwarder, are two other idols, at leait 
 forty-five feet high, and fceming to adore the 
 goddefs. In this temple are alfo two fuperb 
 quadrangular pyramids ftanding upon marble 
 pedeftals, the fides of which are covered with 
 Jos of bronze. 
 
 The inner wall is entirely coated with bricks, 
 enriched with flowers in bas-relief of different co- 
 lours, and all of them varnifhed. Againft the 
 wall fland columns, the fhafts of which rifing 
 fix feet above the bafe are coated with bronze. 
 
 The five temples contain befides vafes for per- 
 fumes and other facred utenfils all of bronze, 
 
 ar>d 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 £. 3£ 
 
 and exquiiitely wrought. There is not a Tingle 
 one among them that for beauty of fubject and 
 delicacy of workmanthip may not be juftly conv 
 pared with thofe that are to be feen in the temple* 
 at Pe-king. 
 
 Each of thefe temples has alfo a fore-court and 
 a portico, with fome marble decorations in the 
 interior of the court. 
 
 Upon the top of the rocks piled upon one 
 another in the ftupendous manner I have men- 
 tioned, are two fquare open pavilions of fymme- 
 trical conftruction, as well as two little houfes in 
 the fliape of towers, and feveral other fmaii 
 apartments. Their roofs- are embeJlifhed with 
 varnifhed tiles, green, blue, and yellow ; fome- 
 times difpofed in fquares or compartments in 
 which thofe various tints are combined, or clf^ 
 being of one and the fame colour. Some of 
 thefe little buildings are even coated on the out- 
 iide with fmooth fquare tiles fo varnifhed that 
 when the fun ftrikes upon them they reflect all 
 the fplendor of his beams. 
 
 But inftead of rafiity undertaking to exprefs 
 and defcribe with my weak pen all that my eyes, 
 admired; inftead of endeavouring to communi- 
 cate to my reader's mind, the many, the varied 
 3 and 
 
i6 Voyage of 1 tHe r>ufctf 
 
 and the extraordinary fenfations produced incef- 
 fantly in mine by the fight of fo many things, in 
 which Angularity, magnificence, boldnefs of de- 
 fign, and (lull of execution were combined, it 
 will be more fimple and more natural to confefe 
 my incapability. The pencil of a great mailer 
 is wanting to create in fome fort anew fo many 
 accumulated wonders, and even then I wilt 
 venture to fay, without feeking to fave my owni 
 credit, that the copy will never be equal to the 
 original. 
 
 With what pleafure would I have facrificed 
 a fum of money to obtain a plan, and a dozen of 
 the mod: interefting views of this magnificent 
 fummer palace. For to try to give by defcription 
 an idea of Chinefe architecture, particularly that 
 of the Imperial refidence, would be a fruit lefs en- 
 deavour, and almoft a lofs of time, the mode of 
 conftruction in that country not having the 
 fmalleft analogy with European architecture. 
 I am indeed fo much convinced that every de- 
 fcription of that kind, unaffifled by drawings 
 would not be underftood, that I ihall abandon the 
 attempt. 
 
 On quitting the pagodas we were led along a 
 very pleafant winding road, neatly paved with 
 
 little 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 17 
 
 little pebbles, overfnadowed by trees, palling 
 fometimes over hills, and fometimes through 
 rallies; fuch a road in fhort, as in fummer, when 
 every thing is green, muft make a moll: delight- 
 ful promenade. 
 
 After a few minutes walk we came to a groupe 
 of fmall buildings inclofed within the walls of an 
 Imperial palace which overlooks them, being as 
 much fuperior to them in height as it exceeds 
 them in fize. They form a kind of village, in 
 the midft of which runs a ftream of very limpid 
 water, fkirted with fmall rocks on each fide, 
 and at this moment free from ice. Thefe build- 
 ings are not inhabited at prefent, but during 
 fummer, when his Majefty makes Yuen-ming* 
 yuen his refidence, they ferve as (hops for tradef- 
 raen of all forts, who come there to fell their 
 goods, and compofe fomething not unlike one of 
 our fairs. It is poflible that this place may then 
 be very lively and amufing, and that the water 
 that runs through it may at once furnifh the means 
 of cleanlinefs, and ferye to keep it cool. 
 
 Thence w r e were conducted towards another 
 affemblage of buildings, where the Voo-tchong- 
 tang waited for us in one of the halls. We ad- 
 vanced towards him, and paid him our compli- 
 
 Vol. II. C ments 
 
l8 VOYAGE OF THE DtfTCH 
 
 ments, accompanied by a genuflexion. For this 
 Prime Minifter, this firft agent of the Empire, is 
 called, as I have before obferved, the second 
 emperor ; and in fome refpecls the Chinefe pay 
 almoft as much honour to him as to the Emperor 
 himfelf: nobody dares fpeak to him without 
 bending the knee. He received us with an affa- 
 bility which had all the chara£reriftics of fmcerity, 
 and afked us our opinion of what we had feen. 
 Our interpreter conveyed to him the expreffion 
 of our pleasure, our fatisfacrion, and our well- 
 grounded aftonifhment, and above all, our praife 
 of his Majefty's little cabinet. The Prime Mi- 
 nifter then told us that the Emperor, being ex- 
 ceedingly pleafed with the perfons felefted for 
 the Dutch Embafly, had wifhed to give us a 
 proof of his favour and affe6tion, by granting 
 more to us than to any other foreigner, iince the 
 foot of an alien had never before trod in the pri- 
 vate apartments of his Majefty, nor had any Euro- 
 pean eve ever perceived what we had been per- 
 mitted to examine ; that very few even of the 
 natives of the country were fortunate enough to 
 approach thofe places; and that we might thence 
 judge how far the Monarch had carried his pre- 
 ference and predileclion. We endeavoured on 
 our part to fhew our high fenfe of the honoui 
 
 don« 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— £• 19 
 
 done us, and the greatnefs of our refpeclful gra- 
 titude. 
 
 To give us a mark of ftill farther favour, 
 the Prime Minifter made us a prefent in the 
 name of the Emperor. That for the Ambaffador 
 confifted of four rolls of filk, feveral embroidered 
 purfes to hold tobacco, a fmall bottle for fnuff, 
 and two porringers of porcelain. Mine was the 
 fame, except that I had only two rolls of filk. 
 We returned our thanks by performing the falute 
 of honour. 
 
 The Prime Minifter then made us fit down 
 oppofite him upon cufhions laid on the ground, 
 and paltry and fweetmeats were handed to us. 
 Upon tailing fome of them we found them as 
 good as we could have delired in Europe. We 
 were afterwards prefented with a dim of tea. 
 
 His Excellency and I then rofe, and approach- 
 ing the Minifter, the Ambaffador again offered 
 him in the name of our Prince, and of the Dutch 
 Eaft-India Company, the prefents that were in- 
 tended for him, entreating him to accept them, 
 according to the example of the Prime Minifters, 
 at the time of the other Dutch Embattles. He 
 anfwered in a very kind manner; but perfifted in 
 
 C 2 his 
 
20 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 his refufal by faying that it would ill become him 
 to take gifts prefented by thofe who had already 
 fuffered fo much fatigue in fo long a journey;, 
 and added, that he begged us to excufe his not 
 accepting our offers, and to fpare him any new 
 folicitations on the fubjett. 
 
 His Excellency on this abftained from any 
 farther mention of prefentsj but he requefted 
 another favour, that of returning to Canton by 
 water. The Voo-tc hong-tang very gracioufly prc- 
 mifed us his interceflion with the Emperor. We 
 then returned to our places, and again took fome 
 refrefhments in confequence of the prefling en- 
 treaties of the Prime Minifter. 
 
 He fent us his watch, defiring us to let him 
 know what we thought of it. As it was made 
 by Arnold, we had it in our power to praife it 
 without flattery. The Voo-tc hong-tang then defired 
 to fee ours ; and afterwards fpoke of the high 
 price of fome watches in the poffefTion of our 
 mechanift, which he faid he mould be glad to buy 
 'at an eafier rate, obferving at the fame time that 
 his only cofr him three hundred and feventy-five 
 Jivres. It would have been eafy for us to give 
 him a very intelligible explanation of this low 
 price j but the fear of the consequences that 
 
 might 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— 5. 21 
 
 might have attended it in refpeft: to tbe trans- 
 actions of the Mandarins and merchants of 
 Canton, and particularly the rhk that might be 
 run by the former, prevented me from going 
 into particulars ; and we contented ourfelves 
 with expreffing our furprize at fuch a watch 
 being procured for fo fmall a fura. 
 
 When the converfation had lafted a few mi- 
 nutes longer the Prime Minifter rofe ; we did 
 the fame ; and then after taking a friendly leave 
 he left us. The paftry and fweetmeats that re- 
 mained on our tables were put into our hand- 
 kerchiefs and delivered to our fervants. 
 
 On going hence we pafTed along a winding 
 and ftony road, by the fide of which runs mur* 
 muring along a ftream of the moft pellucid water. 
 After a few turns we came to a building near a 
 back gate, where our carts were waiting for us. 
 
 There we left the Naa-fan-tayen, after having 
 thanked him for accompanying us with fo much 
 complaifance 3 then, feating ourfelves in our 
 fplendid cars, we drove to our lodgings. As our 
 return took place during the day, we remarked 
 that we were palling along a large place com- 
 pofsd of feveral ftreets entirely lined with hand- 
 
 C 3 fomc 
 
22 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 fome fhops, which, added to the crouds paflirig 
 to and fro, furnifhed a prefumption of confi- 
 derable commerce. 
 
 It was a quarter pail eleven when we got 
 back to our hotel, exceedingly well pleafed with 
 the agreeable and unexpected excurfion we had 
 been making for the laft two hours and a 
 quarter. I only regretted that the reft of the 
 party had not partaken of our pleafure. 
 
 I endeavoured even to difcover the reafon of 
 their exclufion, and was told that apprehenfions 
 were entertained left M. Agie, our French inter-r 
 preter, who underftands the Mandarin language 
 too well, at leaft for the intereft of our Mandarins, 
 fhould be dangerous if, in converfing with him, too 
 nice enquiries mould be made concerning many 
 things relative to Canton. This is the reafon of 
 their taking fo much care to let nobody but the 
 AmbafTador and myfelf appear at court. Perhaps 
 there would have been no objection to including 
 in the number of the favourites of the day the 
 three Dutch gentlemen in the fuite of the Em? 
 bafTy, if . it would not have been too clearly 
 marking the exclufion of the others, and a breach 
 of all decorum. It was, therefore, deemed moil 
 prudent to admit nobody but his Excellency arul 
 
 me 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — £. 2$ 
 
 me into thefe extraordinary parties, which were 
 a diftinguithed mark of his Majefty's favour. I 
 am, however, promifed, that all our gentlemen 
 fhali be prefent at an entertainment and fire^ 
 works that are to take place on a very early day. 
 
 From the tenor of the Voo-tchong-iang's difcourfe 
 this morning, I fee plainly that the court is not 
 acquainted with the underhand dealings of the 
 Mandarins at Canton ; and I doubt not but the 
 merchants who manage the affairs of the Cohang 
 are concerned in thofe intrigues. It is certain 
 that even in London Arnold never fold a watch 
 for three hundred and feventy-five livres, and 
 that no Chinefe merchant could be able to pro- 
 cure one at Canton for lefs than fix or eight 
 times that fum. But to pay their court to the 
 Mandarins, and particularly to the Hou-Jwu, who 
 is a kind of god in their eyes, and who is charged 
 by the Grandees of the Empire to procure them 
 European merchandize, they part with commo- 
 dities at a price inferior to their value, and give 
 receipts which are fent to Pe-king with the ar- 
 ticles purchafed. Hence it refults that the Em- 
 peror and the great perfonages about court are 
 perfectly ignorant of the real price of things 
 executed by the celebrated artifts of Europe, 
 Jf> indeed, it were otherwife, would the Prime 
 C 4 Mini ft er 
 
24 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Minifter have told us with fo much candour 
 what he had paid for his watch and other 
 trinkets which he fhewed us with that fimplicity 
 which characterizes truth. 
 
 I mutt ohferve that the Minifters of State never 
 accept a prefent from any one whatever, without 
 the exprefs permiffion of the Emperor. It is 
 confequently proper that they mould have re- 
 ceipts for every thing they procure. 
 
 But it is well known that the Cokang has a 
 particular fund at Canton, arifing from the duties 
 paid on all goods imported or exported by Eu- 
 ropeans, except woollen cloth and other manu- 
 factured articles. Thefe duties were eftablifhed 
 in 1779 by the Tfong-tou, for the following reafon : 
 
 An Englifh fhip of war, called the Seahorfe, 
 commanded by Captain Panton, being come to 
 Canton to enforce the definitive recovery of 
 what was due to Britiih merchants from three or 
 four great Chinefe houfes which had failed 5 a 
 recovery which the Englilh fupercargoes were 
 never able to effect by their own applications, it 
 was thought proper to lay on a tax for ten years 
 in order to extinguifh the debt. But the impoft 
 
 has 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 1$ 
 
 lias furvived the motive of its creation, the duties 
 dill continuing to be received. 
 
 It is from thefe receipts that the merchants, 
 without any lofs to themfelves, affe£t to be 
 generous, and give the Mandarins the moft valu- 
 able things for a trifle, being fure to find in the 
 fund a ready indemnity. 
 
 It is, then, eafy to conceive that the great 
 prefents made by the merchants to the Man- 
 darins, coft them abfolutely nothing ; but that 
 they are made at the expence of the Europeans, 
 whofe merchandize ftill continues to be opprefled 
 by a tax which ought no longer to exift. It is 
 furprifing that a general demand for its fup- 
 prelTion has not been made ; for although this 
 impoft appears indirect, its effect is not lefs real 
 than that of an import upon bread, which falls 
 upon the poor although they buy it of the baker, 
 who fays not a word to them of the tax. 
 
 I think, however, that every reprefentation 
 would be ufelefs unlefs it were fupported like 
 the demand of the Englifli ; for both Mandarins, 
 and merchants find in this abufe the means of 
 fatisfying their thirll after gain. It would, in-- 
 deed, be jmpoffible for the latter to comply with 
 
 the 
 
2.6 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 the interefted views of the former if fuch a 
 fource were dried -up. A fyftem of corruption 
 fo well contrived muft neceffarily continue to 
 cxift> and to acquire new ftrength every day, till 
 it reaches thofe limits when the abufe, become 
 monflrous and pernicious in the extreme, both 
 to commerce and traders, mail call for reform in 
 a manner too imperative to be defpifed. 
 
 February i. This day has been a day of re- 
 pofe, and, for the firft time for a great while paft, 
 we have enjoyed the blefiing of an uninterrupted 
 night's reft. 
 
 The Mandarin, our conductor, came about 
 noon to give us notice to hold ouvfelves in rea- 
 dinefs to go to-morrow at twelve o'clock to court, 
 where we (hall probably flay till the evening is 
 far advanced. He advifed us to dine before our 
 departure, that we might afterwards be the more 
 mailers of our time. 
 
 Every day our conductors become more and 
 more polite, and redouble their attention, be-, 
 caufe they perceive with what diuinction their 
 monarch treats us, and with what kindnefs he 
 wifhes to procure us frequent enjoyments. Con-; 
 yiriced that they arc fo many marks of high 
 
 favour, 
 
EMBA53Y TO CHINA IN I794 5. 2.J 
 
 favour, they take from them, as it were, the 
 meafure of what is due to our character, it being 
 notorious to every one that his Majefty is ex- 
 ceedingly well fatisfied with the Embafly, and 
 with the conduct of thofe belonging to it. I can 
 atteft that he never palled in his palanquin by 
 any place where we were, without turning his 
 eyes towards us with a look expreffive of kind?- 
 nefs, which is one of the moft marked attentions 
 that the manners of China would permit him to 
 fliew us,. 
 
 2d. Although our conductors had urged our 
 dining at an early hour, we did not leave our 
 Jodgings till pad three o'clock. After having 
 been driven three quarters of an hour in a carr 
 riage, we were conducted through a great gate 
 into a wood, in which were pitched feveral 
 round tents of the Tartarian kind. We were 
 placed in one of them to wait for the Emperor's 
 arrival, who came a little before five o'clock, and 
 feated himfelf in a kind of niche in the centre of 
 the building. 
 
 That building confifts of two ftovies, the upper 
 one of which is- occupied by the females of the 
 Emperor's family. But in point of conftruclion 
 it is the leafl remarkable of any we have yet 
 
 feen, 
 
28 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 feen, nothing about it befpeaking an Imperial 
 residence. There were openings of a fingle pane 
 of glafs in the windows for the ladies to peep 
 through in order to fee into the fquare, in the 
 midft of which the building ftands. This fquare, 
 called San-cou-ckui-tchung, is the fame in which 
 the Emperor's tent was erected the day before 
 yefterday. 
 
 A little before his Majefty's arrival we were 
 defired to fit down upon cufhions, laid flat 
 on carpets covering the ground, in order to 
 fee the fireworks. Some wreftlers, tumblers, 
 muficians, and a miferable rope-dancer amufec^ 
 the old Monarch with their tirefome perform- 
 ances, which were of fo wretched a kind, that 
 in Europe they would hardly have attracted any 
 fpeclators whatever. 
 
 At half pafl five preparations began to be 
 made for the exhibition of the fireworks. The 
 whole was brought in two great and two fmalt 
 covered waggons, the former containing three 
 great pieces each ; the latter a fingle piece, con- 
 iiiting of a great number of lanterns. There 
 were, bcfides, a great many wheels, ferpents, 
 and other fireworks, but no rockets. The pieces 
 brought in the great covered waggons were very 
 
 pretty y 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 29 
 
 pretty, and were alone deferving of attention, 
 the reft not being comparable to European pro- 
 ductions of the fame kind. It is, befides, matter 
 of regret that fireworks fliould be exhibited in 
 the day-time, the light deftroying their moft 
 brilliant effects; but the old Monarch is fo much 
 afraid of fire, that he will never permit any to be 
 difplayed during the night. Even at thefe two 
 little European fire-engines were ready, as well 
 as a great number of tubs full of water, and pails, 
 to extinguifh the burning paper of the crackers, 
 as foon as their explofion mould be at end. 
 
 A little after fix o'clock the whole was over, 
 and we returned to our hotel, whither a mef- 
 fenger came to give notice to his Excellency and 
 me to prepare again to go at an early hour to- 
 morrow to court, where we were expected to- 
 breakfaft. 
 
 3d. We were on our way to court at four 
 o'clock in the morning. While waiting for day- 
 light to appear we firft flopped in a little apart- 
 ment, and afterwards walked towards a magni- 
 ficent edifice, which we had not yet feen, and 
 in front of which is a large open fquare. ft has 
 a great refemblance to the fecond building that 
 we vi/ited on the 31ft of January. It has alfo a 
 
 1 court-yard, 
 
3<3 VOYAGE OF*THE HUTCH 
 
 court-yard, in which ftand two lions of bronze 
 upon pedeftals of marble, but they are fmaller 
 than thofe of the other edifice. 
 
 V 
 
 From this open fpace or efphnade we were 
 conducted through a very large gate with three 
 paffages, into a court in the front of it entirely 
 paved with fmooth ftones. The gate itfelf is- 
 an edifice two ftories high ; is of the fame con- 
 ftru6tion and magnitude ; and is laid out in the 
 fame manner as that of the palace of Pe-king, of 
 which I made mention on the 2Cth of January* 
 except that here the hall called Tjing-tay-qaong- 
 ming is paved with white marble, as well as the 
 front gallery, at the two ends of which are aifo 
 placed all manner of mufical instruments. The 
 hall is hting round with Chinefe lanterns of va- 
 rious fhapes. 
 
 At fun-rife the Voo-tcliong-tang entered, and 
 came immediately towards us. to inform the Am- 
 baflador that his Majefty had given orders that 
 on our return we mould travel for "the firft 
 eighteen days over land, and afterwards entirely 
 by water 3 but that during the whole journey we 
 fhould be conducted in any way we might prefer, 
 and be provided with all pcfllble accommoda- 
 tions. We thanked him for this arrangement, 
 
 againir. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. 3! 
 
 againft which we had not the fmalleft objection 
 to make. 
 
 He afterwards went to the inner part of the 
 hall, where the Emperor, who foon after made 
 his appearance, feated himfelf in his arm-chair* 
 The ceremonial, entertainments, mufic, little. 
 tables of fifty dimes, every thing in fhort was the 
 fame as the day before yefterday. We had, 
 however, to-day a ferious dance, which had not 
 taken place at the former feftivals. It was exe- 
 cuted by a fet of Mandarins, who firft advanced 
 two by two, and afterwards made fome meafured 
 movements with their arms and feet, keeping 
 time with the mufic, but without mifting their 
 ground, and only turning round upon that which 
 they occupied. Each pair of dancers exercifcd 
 themfelves in this way for about three minutes, 
 after which they performed the falute of honour 
 and retired. 
 
 Thefe Mandarins were all dreffed in the fame 
 manner. The buttons on their caps were oval, 
 hexagonal, and of different colours, blue, white, 
 and coraline. The caps had a thick covering 
 of very fine raw filk ; and from the hind part a 
 kind of flap or hood fell back upon their moul- 
 ders, Round their necks they wore feveral rows 
 
 of 
 
■$Z VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 of large beads, hanging down to the breaft. I 
 afked of what rank they were, and here follows 
 what I was able to collect : 
 
 They are called Chiouais, and are a body folely 
 compofed of the fons of the principal Mandarin? 
 of the Empire, fuch as the Tfong-lous, the Tay- 
 /oysy the Fou-yuens, and others of the firft rank. 
 They are taught the military art, and ought to 
 underfland the ufe of the bow and arrow to 
 perfection. The firft clafs is the Yuchin- 
 Chiouaisy who guard the doors of the exterior 
 ©f the palace, and always remain near the 
 Emperor's perfon : their button is of red coral. 
 The fecond clafs confifts of the Tinchin-Chioua'n 
 to whofe care the external gates of the palace 
 are entrufted : their button is dark blue. Laft 
 comes the third clafs, or common Chiouais> who 
 are armed with bows and arrows, and accom- 
 pany the Emperor's palanquin, either on foot or 
 horfeback, whenever he makes a long excurfion. 
 Their button is of a dull and milky white. 
 
 The object of their dance is an homage which 
 they pay once a year to the Emperor in this 
 place j fhewing, by the movements of their arms> 
 that they are always ready to defend his power 
 and protect his perfon. 
 
 There 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794—5. 33 
 
 There feems to be a great conformity between 
 this body of Mandarins and the perfons who in 
 the courts of Europe are ityled chamberlains, 
 gentlemen in waiting, and body-guards ; com- 
 paring to each rank one of the clafTes of Chiouais. 
 The two firft of thefe have their pofts of honour 
 like the chamberlains and gentlemen in waiting, 
 while the third ferve in the fame capacity as 
 body guards. It was the latter who efcorted the 
 Emperor on horfeback with their bows and ar- 
 rows when he was going to the Temple of 
 Heaven on the 27th of January) and when he 
 returned on the following dav. 
 
 I am now, then, enabled to fay, that his Im- 
 perial Majcfty has a body of life guards, which 
 I did not before imagine, never having feen in. 
 attendance upon him any perfons armed even 
 with fabres. Every body goes to court without 
 arms. We never even appeared there with our 
 fwords, leaving them at our hotel in conformity 
 with the with expreffed by the Mandarins in con- 
 fequence of the Emperor's orders. 
 
 Once only I faw the Chimiais appear in a body 
 
 before the Emperor with their fwords by their 
 
 Tide. This was on the 20th of January, and 
 
 their drefs was then entirely different, being 
 
 \ ol. II. D clofe 
 
34^ VOYAGE OF THE DtTTCH 
 
 clofe and richly embroidered wtth dragons or 
 gold, which gave them a very magnificent ap* 
 pearance. 
 
 To-day the two principal Minifters had their 
 fabres by their fides for a few minutes at the 
 time of the Emperor's arrival ; but in general no 
 military Mandarin wears his fword as a mark of 
 his o£ice, unlefs when in the field, whereas in 
 Europe an officer is always obliged to appear 
 with arms. 
 
 At court the Mandarins wear no diftin£tive 
 mark except that which is embroidered alike 
 upon the breaft and back of their robes. It 
 confifts of lions and dragons for the military 
 Mandarins, and of cranes, flags, and herons for 
 Mandarins of letters. Hence the department to 
 which they belong is known. It is from the 
 body of the Chionais, that the greater number 
 of Mandarins are taken for the provinces, where 
 they are appointed to military employs, and in 
 general they rife to the higheft dignities of their 
 profeflion. 
 
 We were to-day taken once more to the foot 
 of the throne, where we received a glafs of wine 
 from the Monarch's own hand, after which we 
 
 returned 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1 7 94— 5 • 35 
 
 freturned to our places. Soon after the Em* 
 peror arofe, which terminated every thing, and 
 we returned to our lodgings. We got there at 
 a quarter paft nine. 
 
 The reafon which prevents our returning en- 
 tirely by water is the idea that there will not be 
 a thaw, in lefs than fix weeks, fufficient to ren- 
 der the rivers navigable ; and that our ftay, if 
 prolonged to the end of that time, would be too 
 long in itfelf, and tirefome to us, who are kept 
 in a fort of confinement. We (hall then take in 
 part a different route from that which brought 
 us to Pe-king, and mall pafs through the province 
 of Skan-tongy which, independent of variety, 
 will procure us a fight of regions whither as yet 
 no foreigner has penetrated. We fhall take 
 every day as the meafure of our journey's duration, 
 that of the fun above the horizon, and at Von- 
 ca-fon, which is two day's journey within the 
 province of Kiang-nam, we fhall embark. Such 
 is the outline of the report made to us this day 
 by one of our Canton Mandarins. 
 
 We are eafily reconciled to the idea of thefe new 
 
 fatigues, and prefer a fpeedy end to our captivity 
 
 to all the attentions which are lavifhed upon us 
 
 here. O delightful liberty ! we do not begin to 
 
 D 2 be 
 
36 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCtf 
 
 be fenfible of thy value till threatened with the 
 lofs of thine ineftimable enjoyments. 
 
 I this day received a letter from my friend 
 Grammont, to whom I returned an anfwer im- 
 mediately. He is ftill in hopes of feeing us 
 fhortly. 
 
 This afternoon, at three o'clock, our whole 
 party went again to court to fee an exhibition 
 of fireworks ; but as the wind was high, a mef- 
 fenger was fent to us, after half an- hour had 
 elapfed, to fay that his Majefty had fufpended 
 the feftival for that evening. We fet off dire£tly 
 for our lodgings. 
 
 Having obtained at Canton from the merchant 
 Paonkequa twenty drawings, confiding of view* 
 of Yiten-ming-yiien, in order to copy them, I was 
 naturally furprized, after finding among them 
 reprefentations of edifices built and laid out' in the 
 European manner, to find none of the fame kind 
 at Yuen-ming-yiten itfelf. I therefore afked our 
 conductors if fuch buildings did really exifr. ? 
 They told me in anfwer that they did ; that they 
 were ten /* diftance from Hoi-tim, the place where 
 we now are ; and that they are occupied by part 
 of the Emperor's wives. Upon my enquiring 
 
 whether 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 37 
 
 whether we could not go to fee them, I was told 
 that I rmift beg the Naa-fan-tayen to alk per- 
 miflion of the Vootc hong-tang. I mean to take 
 the firft favourable opportunity to obtain that 
 pleafure, if pollible. 
 
 We had alfo an idea of paying a vifit to the 
 great walls or rampart of China j but hearing 
 that they are two hundred U off, we {hall not 
 make the requeft, becaufe it is probable that the 
 trouble fo long a journey would occafion might 
 make our obtaining permiflion a matter of doubt, 
 
 4th. This is a day of reft, as to us, on account 
 of an eclipfe of the moon, which obliges the 
 Emperor and all the grandees of the Empire to 
 retire into their inner apartments, and put on 
 mourning. His Majefty on fuch occalions is 
 entirely taken up with the performance of fome 
 pious rites in favour of the Sun or Moon, in 
 order to refcue them from the dreadful fate with 
 which they are threatened by the great dragon, 
 who obfcures the fplendor of one or other of 
 thofe planets, by holding them in his mouth with 
 the intention of fwaUowing them. The Chinefe 
 perfift in this miferable fuperftition, to which 
 they have^been addidled from time immemorial, 
 although the molt plain demonftrations of a pla- 
 
 D 3 netarium 
 
3^ VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 netarium fliow them that the event is natural, 
 and the eclipfes of the moon are caufed by the 
 interpofition of the earth between the fun and 
 moon while the latter is at the full; in like 
 manner as the eclipfes of the fun are produced 
 at the time of the new moon, by its interpofition 
 between the fun and the earth. But the attach- 
 ment of this nation for the ideas of its anceftors, 
 and its veneration for the commandments it has 
 received from them, are fo ftrong, that a fon 
 never dares to appear more learned than his 
 father. It is from this rule of its ancient phi- 
 lofophers, which fhould rather be taken in a 
 figurative than a literal fenfe, that remits its 
 f little progrefs in all the fciences, and its blind 
 attachment to old cuftoms, 
 
 It is evident that the fcientific knowledge pof- 
 fefTed by the Chinefe is of very ancient date, and 
 that they obtained it long before the fciences 
 were known in Europe. But every thing has 
 remained in its primitive ftate, without their ever 
 feeking, like the Europeans, to make farther 
 progrefs, or to bring their difcoveries to per- 
 fection. We have confequently far furpafled 
 them. Nor can a doubt be entertained of their 
 perceiving it ; but they are utterly regardlefs of 
 this fuperiority. Fully fatisfied with their fum 
 2 of 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. %$ 
 
 of intelligence ; perfuaded that it fuffices for all 
 the wants of their exiftence ; and confidering 
 our advance towards perfection as ufelefs, and 
 abfolutely fuperfluous, they are refolved to make 
 no attempts to follow us. Befides, in doing fo, 
 they would be obliged to violate the precept I 
 have already mentioned, 
 
 I mult once more obferve, that there is no 
 nation fo fervilely attached to the ufages and 
 maxims of its anceftors as the Chinefe. And we 
 mall ceafe to be aftonifhed at it, when we know 
 that filial refpecl is without bounds among them -, 
 that this tie of nature {lands in the ftead of legifla- 
 tion, the place of which it entirely fupplies ; and 
 that their great philofopher Koug-fou-tfe y by deduc- 
 ing all his principles of family relations from thofe 
 between father and fon, found means to acquire 
 an authority, which ferved in its turn to ftrengthen 
 that firft natural fentiment, that primary founda- 
 tion of every focial fyftem. And does it not 
 feem as if the divine blefling promifed by the 
 commandment that requires the children of 
 Ifrael to honour their parents, were become the 
 portion of the Chinefe ! It is alfo in the execu- 
 tion of this facred law, that, according to my weak 
 judgment, we ought to feek the caufe of the long 
 duration of this nation, theonly one, excepting the 
 
 D 4 Japanefe 
 
40 Voyage of the dutch 
 
 Japanefe (fubje£l alfo to the ftrict obfervanc& 
 of the fame precept), which has preferved itfelf 
 the fame from a period which is loft in the moft 
 remote antiquity, 
 
 In the reft of the univerfe, Empires have dis- 
 appeared after having been overthrown and 
 deftroyed, and the greater part of them have 
 only left an empty name, and the fterile renown 
 of a fplendour which is no more. In China, on the 
 contrary, even the change of dynafty, by trans- 
 ferring the power to a Tartarian prince, did 
 not change the nation. The conqueror, guided 
 by a wife principle, inftead of introducing the 
 laws of his country, adopted thofe of the con- 
 quered, and thus becoming a Chinefe himfelf, 
 the Chinefe nation was preferved entire by keep- 
 ing its name, its language, and its manners. The 
 Tartars, on their fide, have remained a feparate 
 people, a kind of diftincl empire, and enjoy to 
 this day their own language and their own laws. 
 
 We may fuppofe, with great reafon, we may 
 even go fo far as to conlider it as almoft certain, 
 that the Chinefe will remain a flourifliing people 
 to the utmoft limits of time that thought can 
 reach 5 becaufe nature herfelf muft henceforth 
 protect their country againft all enterprizes an4 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794— 5. 4* 
 
 all invafions, fo that it is impofiible to attack 
 them with any hope of fubjetVing them to a 
 foreign power, or of ruining their country. 
 
 To the north, inhofpitable deferts of confider- 
 able extent refufe a paflage to a numerous army 
 and the immenfe train that follows it, becaufe it 
 affords them no means of fubfiftence. To the 
 fouthward and eaflward rivers of fmall depth of 
 water deny accefs to a fleet, while narrow high' 
 ways prevent the regular march of an army, how- 
 ever fmall, that may have landed upon the coaft. 
 It would not indeed find any thing like a road to 
 penetrate into the interior of the country, but 
 paths only fit for a fingle man on foot or horfe- 
 back, and frequently interrupted by ditches, 
 ravines, and rivers, which are fo many means of 
 protection. To the weft the defence of China 
 confifts in inacceflible mountains and impene- 
 trable woods. 
 
 Thus guarded on every fide, the Chinefe have 
 no reafon to fear the deftru£tive confequences 
 which have refulted from war to fo many other 
 nations. The only means then of difturbing them 
 would be the keeping up of a fecret underftand- 
 ing with a part of the nation ; but the difficulty 
 of their language is a {till more unfurmountable 
 
 obftaclc 
 
if% VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 obftacle than all thofe which I have enumerated 
 above. That language is an eternal barrier 
 placed between them and the reft of mankind ; 
 and time, while adding century to century, can- 
 not weaken it, unlefs by overturning the whole 
 furface of the globe. 
 
 I do not mean that from thefe truths it fliould 
 be inferred that the Chinefe may make a jeft 
 with impunity of any attempt by the Europeans to 
 compel them to make fuch reforms as are neceflary 
 to put a flop to the fcandalous exactions and 
 barefaced frauds of the Mandarins of Canton, 
 which are fo burdenfome to the commerce of 
 Europe ; fo far from it, I am of opinion that fuch 
 3 meafure would be attended with but little 
 trouble and expence, even if undertaken by a 
 fmgle nation. But I think it prudent not to 
 explain myfelf mere fully upon the fubject, and 
 to pafs over in filence both the project and the 
 plan. 
 
 5th, In the morning a great Mandarin came 
 on the part of the Emperor with prefents in- 
 tended for our Prince the Stadtholder, the Am- 
 baflador, and me. We performed the falute of 
 honour, to exprefs our gratitude. 
 
 Our 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 43 
 
 r Our firft conductor from Canton alfo came to 
 inform me that he had received orders from his 
 Imperial Majefty to take us back to that city, 
 and that the Emperor had himfelf fixed our de- 
 parture for the twenty-fixth day of the moon 
 (the fifteenth of the prefent month). Agreeably 
 with his requeft, I intimated this determination 
 to the Ambaffador. 
 
 As I am defirous of feeing before our departure 
 the edifices at Yuen-ming-yaen that are conftructe4 
 in the European manner, I begged the Mandarin, 
 our conductor, to folicit this favour in my name 
 of the Prime Minifter. He obferved to me that 
 thefe edifices, being occupied by the Emperor's 
 wives, it was impomble for them to be fhewn 
 to us. I replied that our curiofity would be 
 fatisfied by only feeing the outfide, were it even 
 at fome diftance, as we only wifhed to have the 
 fatisfaclion of faying that we had perceived them. 
 He then promifed me to ufe his intereft with the 
 Voo-tchong-tang, 
 
 Our court conductor made his appearance 
 afterwards, to give us notice that our whole 
 party was expected this afternoon at the palace 
 to be fpectators of the fireworks. 
 
 Wc 
 
44 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 We fet off in confequence for the fame plac« 
 as the laft time, and again waited under a tent 
 in the wood for half an'hour. Thence we were 
 defired to go to the efplanade in front of the 
 building, where we fat down. On the Em- 
 peror's arrrival, his Excellency and I were re- 
 moved from the place where we were into the 
 paved court, in which we were alone, while the 
 AmbafTador's fuite remained on the efplanade 
 without. The upper ftory of the building was 
 again full of ladies. 
 
 After his Majefty had been feated a few mo* 
 ments, a cup of milk of beans was brought to 
 him, and the fame was afterwards prefented to 
 all the guefts. The wreftlers, the mufician?, 
 and the tumblers, continued their exercifes till 
 fun- fet, when the fireworks began, which dif- 
 fered little from thofe we had feen before, ex- 
 cept that at the end there was a kind of fham 
 fight performed at a fmall diftance under the trees. 
 Fireworks were directed by each party againft the 
 other, and made a report which imitated that of 
 mufkets, and even that of heavy artillery, in an 
 aftoniming manner. This part of the entertain* 
 ment was in fa£l the moft amufmg, becaufe it 
 fully equalled the expectations of the fpectators, 
 and gave reafon to regret that the effect was not 
 
 aided 
 
SMBASST TO CHINA IN 2794 — $. 4$ 
 
 aided by the darknefs of night. The whole was 
 over before fix o'clock, and in half an hour after 
 we had reached our home. 
 
 The Mandarin, who has the direction of' our 
 lodgings, told us that we were to fet off to- 
 morrow morning for Pe-king ; but that his Ex- 
 cellency and I were to return in two days to ^ 
 pay our refpects to the Emperor. 
 
 As there feems to be no inclination to mew us 
 any thing more of this Imperial refidence, we 
 were very glad to return to Pe-king, becaufe our 
 baggage was there, and our lodgings are more 
 comfortable. 
 
 6th. At half pad fix we quitted Hoi-iim^ and 
 reached our hotel at half paft twelve. Having 
 returned by the fame road we went, we had no 
 opportunity of obferving any thing new, except 
 that when we had gone about half way we paiT- • 
 ed near a magnificent pagoda, by the fide of 
 which is a convent and many circumjacent build- 
 ings, which have all the outward appearance of 
 Imperial edifices. I was told that the great bell 
 fo famous throughout China is kept in this place, 
 ■which is called Tay-chong-tniao. 
 
 Being 
 
46 V6YA6E OF THE DtfTCrf 
 
 Being come to the city of Pe-king itfelf, wtf 
 entered a ftreet that we had not yet feen, at a 
 part where another more confiderable ftreet in- 
 tercepts 1t at right angles. A fquare has been 
 formed out of this crofs-way, by the erection of 
 four triumphal arches, having three pafTages 
 each, and adorned with a profufion of painting* 
 gilding, and fculpture. Thefe four triumphal 
 arches, which correfpond with the middle of 
 the ftreets, .ftand oppofite each other, and in a 
 ftraight line with the houfes of the two crofs 
 ftreets. The four buildings forming the angles 
 of the fquare are of uniform conftruclion, and 
 two ftories high ; their fronts being alfo orna- 
 mented with painting and gilding. All thefe 
 decorations give the place a very handfome ap- 
 pearance. As to the reft, there are here as well 
 as in the other ftreets of Pe-king a great crowd, 
 and little tents filled with every kind of merchan- 
 dize. 
 
 After dinner, our court conductor came to 
 tell me that his Excellency and I were to return 
 the day after to-morrow to Yaen-ming-yuen, to 
 wait upon the Emperor in the afternoon, and to 
 return in the evening to Pe-king. I communi- 
 sated this to the Ambaflador. 
 
 Shortly 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. 4? 
 
 Shortly after we had a vifit from the Naa-fan- 
 tayen. I begged him, fince our departure was fo 
 near, to endeavour to obtain leave for us to have 
 the Miflionaries at our hotel for the laft three days, 
 particularly Meffrs. Grammont and Roux, the 
 former of thofe two gentlemen being my inti- 
 mate friend. He again promifed to do every 
 thing in his power. 
 
 I alfo afked to fee the celebrated Chinefe bell, 
 and he undertook to folic it the Prime Minifter's 
 permiffion. 
 
 He then (hewed me a common fquare bottle 
 which he had brought with him, and in which 
 was a little wooden mill, turned by fine fand 
 falling through a kind of funnel at the top of the 
 bottle upon the ladle boards of the wheel. In 
 fhort, it was one of thofe play-things which are 
 to be found in a thoufand different fhapes, and 
 to be purchafed for a trifle in a European fair. 
 lie afked me if I was acquainted with this piece 
 of mechanifm ? I told him that I had feen a 
 great number, and of a much handfomer ex- 
 ternal form. He then afked me why we had 
 brought nothing with us of the fame kind ? I 
 obferved in anfwer, that as in our country they 
 gnly ferve for the amufement of children, we had 
 
 not 
 
4$ Voyage of the DuTcit 
 
 not fuppcrfed that they Would give the lead pica- 
 fure, or excite the fmalleft attention, He aflured 
 us of the contrary* and fpoke in the language of 
 a man who thinks himfelf the poffeiTor of a won- 
 der. This opinion was even ftrengthened when 
 I fet the mill a-going, by putting new fand in 
 the fire, and by fhewing him that after all ran 
 out how it might be brought to the top again 
 by turning up the bottle. It is not at all impro- 
 bable that thefe trifles would find a good market 
 here, and that they would perhaps amufe the 
 Emperor himfelf as much as the pieces of mc- 
 chanifm that we brought with us to Pe-king. 
 
 Before he left me the Naa-fan-tayen allured me 
 that he intended to write concerning me to the 
 Tfong-tou and the Hou-pou of Canton, for which 
 I expreffed myfelf highly grateful. He is even 
 In hopes, as he told me, of being Hou-pou at 
 Canton himfelf the enfuing year, and I allured 
 him that I fmcerely wiflied him to fill that em* 
 ploy. 
 
 After more than an hour's conversation, he 
 took leave in the moft friendly manner, and I 
 attended him as far as the inner door. This 
 evening he fent a prefent of fruit and fweatmcats 
 to the Ambaffador and me. 
 
 3 7th. Nothing 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 49 
 
 7th. Nothing remarkable: we only, began to 
 make our arrangements with our travelling con- 
 ductors as to our departure and mode of convey- 
 ance. It was at hit refolved that his Excellency 
 and I mould perform that part of our journey 
 that lay over land in palanquins 5 the five gentle- 
 men of our party, the mechanift, and rnaitre 
 d hotel, on horfeback, and the reft of the fuite in 
 carts, with all the baggage, for the carriage of 
 which no Coulis were to be got here. 
 
 As far as I have been able to obferve, there 
 are only three ways of tranfporting goods 5 
 namely, by carts, by barrows, and on drome- 
 daries* 
 
 Dromedaries are here very numerous j but 
 it did not appear to me that they carried fo 
 heavy burthens on their backs as the camels 
 of Arabia and the weftern parts of India. 
 I have alfo obferved that their pace is very 
 flow, fo that their conductor can follow them 
 With eafe : we out-travelled them in our pa- 
 lanquins. It feems that this is the pace in which 
 they go upon a journey. In walking their great 
 arched neck is always pendant, confequently 
 their head does not lean upon their humps ; and 
 while upon the road they are conftantly chewing 
 the cud. At the lower part of their necks they 
 Vol. M. E have 
 
$0 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 have fome long hair, as fine as filk 3 and in fomcr 
 this hair is very bufliy. It is precifely the fame 
 as that which is fo much valued in Europe in 
 the manufactories of camlet, and which we ex- 
 port from Turkey. All the reft of the hair of 
 the dromedary or camel is too fhort for working 
 or fpinning. 
 
 One thing which ftruck me was, that the folc 
 of the dromedary's foot is tender all over, and to 
 fuch a degree, that when it is ftretched out the 
 infide refembles a kind of elaftic cufhion. Rug- 
 ged or ftony roads muft then be extremely trou- 
 blefome to thefe animals, fince fuch roads feem 
 to require a very hard fubftance. The manner 
 in which the dromedary lies down is alfo fome- 
 what fingular, inafmuch as he fupports himfelf 
 on his fore knees, and does not fuffer the lower 
 part of his body to touch the ground. He has 
 then his neck ftretched out, and his head erecl. 
 I had no opportunity of making farther obfer- 
 vations on this animaU 
 
 Our Chinefe fcrvants this day obtained per- 
 million to go into the city to buy whatever might 
 be needful. They returned this evening,, very 
 forry that this indulgence had been granted ~ 
 Having been difcovered to be ftrangers at Pe- 
 king, the centincls in the ftreets put them into a 
 
 guar' 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794— 5. 52 
 
 guard-houfe. They did not fail to declare that 
 they Were part of the retinue of the Dutch Era- 
 baffy, and that they were natives of Canton* 
 begging at the fame time that the Lingua might 
 be fent for, to bear witnefs to the truth of what 
 they advanced ; but as the difcovery of the truth 
 did not enter into the calculation of thefe mili- 
 tary knaves, they began to drip them, and ac- 
 cufed them of felling opium. Unfortunately 
 each of the fervants had a few dollars prepared 
 for his purchafes ; and that was exactly what 
 thefe faithful guards were in fearch of. Chains 
 were already prepared to conduct them to prifon, 
 which terrified them to fuch a decree, that al~ 
 though innocent they made a tender of money, 
 in order to efcape from the plunderers, who at 
 laft fold them their liberty for a dozen piajires. I 
 intended to communicate thefe facts to the Man- 
 darin, but my fervant begged me not to do fo, as 
 their liberty had been obtained by means of a 
 compofition, which if known might give them, 
 as well as others, a great deal of trouble. I 
 therefore refolved to fay nothing upon the fub- 
 ject; but here we fee that even a Chinefe is not 
 in perfect fafety in his own country, and to what 
 a degree a private foldier may moleft a man who 
 does not belong to the place. What then fhould 
 not we Europeans have had to dread, if leave 
 
 E 2 had 
 
t|l VOYAGE OF" THE fcttTCft 
 
 had been given us to walk about. At any rate 
 we could not have moved a ftep in the ftreets 
 without being efcorted by a guard of foldiers, on 
 account of the curiofity of the multitude crowd- 
 ing round us on all fides, as we experienced 
 every day, even in the interior of the Imperial 
 palaces. We have therefore reafon to believe 
 that it is from prudential motives that we are fo 
 clofely guarded, in order to preferve us from a 
 thoufand affronts which might have been offered 
 us by the dregs of the people. In what country 
 indeed is it poffible to controul the mob? Befides, 
 as the Mandarins are refponfible for our lives 
 and for our fatisfacYion, it is ftill more eafy to 
 believe that fo many precautions are dictated to 
 them by their own intereft. 
 
 Sth. This morning at eleven o'clock the 
 Ambaffador and I fet off for the country houfe 
 of Yuen-ming-yuen. In paffmg through the city 
 we met with a very remarkable funeral. It was 
 that of a Mandarin of the firft rank. The body 
 was conducted out of Pe-king with a confiderable 
 proceffion and a great deal of pomp. 
 
 On arrival at one o'clock at Yuen-ming-yuen, 
 we were conducted to an apartment where we 
 had already been, and where we ftaid at leaft 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— ^. $$ 
 
 two hours. In the mean time fome fragments 
 were brought from the Emperor's table on dimes 
 of marly gold, which indicates that he is ferved 
 in that metal. From this apartment we were 
 taken to a tent, and an hour afterwards to the 
 great Efplanade, in which the fireworks were 
 ufually difplayed. 
 
 At four o'clock the Emperor came out of the 
 building and feated himfelf in his arm chair in 
 the niche. I had then an opportunity of feeing 
 him walk fome diftance, and I was very much 
 furprifed to find that he was exceedingly upright, 
 and flood in no need of fupport. When Hand- 
 ing he appears younger and ftronger than when 
 in a fitting pofture, His ftature exceeds the 
 common height. 
 
 'a' 
 
 His Majefty being feated, all the Envoys were 
 prefented to him, thofe of each nation going to- 
 gether : we were the third. After we had 
 performed the falute of honour with our hats off, 
 the Emperor, through the medium of the Prime 
 Minifter, defired the AmbafTador to tell our 
 Prince how we had found him on our arrival, 
 the ltete in which we had left him, the manner 
 jn which we had been received and treated, and 
 what we had feen in his palaces. His Excellency 
 
 E 3 returned 
 
54 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 returned thanks to the Emperor for all the favours 
 conferred upon us, and exprefled his wifh that 
 his reign, protracted to a diftant period, might be 
 attended by that happinefs which good princes 
 deferve. We then repeated the falute of honour, 
 and returned to our feats. 
 
 The different Envoys having thus had a gene- 
 ral audience of leave, a cup of bean milk was 
 firft prefented to the Emperor, and afterwards 
 handed round to all the guefts. 
 
 A little table was afterwards prepared for us 
 of paftrv and fweetmeats, which rendered a difh 
 of mutton ferved up at the fame time a ftill more 
 remarkable object than it would otherwife have 
 been. Similar tables were fet before the reft of the 
 company. While we were taking our collation, 
 wreftlers, muficiaris, and jugglers were bufied 
 in their ridiculous performances, to which we 
 did not deign to pay the fmalleft attention, al- 
 though the old Emperor was fo much amufed 
 with them, that he ordered money to be diftri- 
 buied to thefe buffoons as a proof of his appro- 
 bation. 
 
 At fun-fet the fire-works began, which were 
 
 almolt fimilar to the laft, and terminated likewife 
 
 , bv 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 55 
 
 by a fham fight, which was perfectly well exe- 
 cuted. The leaders, of the court, who were 
 Rationed in the upper ftory, had alfo the plea- 
 fure of partaking of this feftival. 
 
 The fire-works being over, his Imperial Ma- 
 jefty repaired to a habitation in another part of 
 this delightful retreat, going in a fled over the 
 ice. We followed him in a fiat fled, palling 
 under trees, along a noble ferpentine canal. We 
 alighted at a great diftance from our point of 
 departure, and proceeded on foot to an illumi- 
 nated edifice, near which the Emperor was already 
 feated. We were defired to fit down on cufhions 
 upon the ground. 
 
 Some players began an infipid piece of buf- 
 foonery, after fome fingers had chaunted verfes, 
 the fubject of which feemed to me to be the 
 praifes of his Majeftv, celebrated and honoured 
 by all the nations of the earth ; for I remarked 
 that mention was made of the Dutch. 
 
 Having remained half an hour longer in this 
 place, the Monarch retired. We were then re- 
 conducted to the canal, where we got into a 
 fled, which conveyed us, by a circuitous route, 
 to a gate, where we found our carts. There the 
 
 E 4 Naa- 
 
$6 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Naa-fan-tayen, who had alfo accompanied us the 
 whole of this evening, took leave of us. We 
 ftepped into our carnages to return to the city, 
 and congratulated ourfelves when we got back 
 to our lodgings, at pail nine o'clock, fo tirefome 
 and difagreeable had been the conftant jolting of 
 our vehicles. 
 
 The only recompenfe for the fatigue we fuf- 
 fered in this fhort journey was the fight we ob- 
 tained of the above-mentioned noble canal, form- 
 ing feveral meanders through a wood in uneven 
 ground. Its banks are compofed of rocks, which, 
 being ufed inftead of bricks or ftones, have taken, 
 under the hand of man, a form which they feem, 
 only to have received from that of nature. How 
 great muft be the pleafure of navigating, in the 
 fummer feafon, on this tranquil ftream in a light 
 yacht, under the pleafant made of trees, which 
 at this moment only exift to afflict the eye ! 
 
 How happy were we to have feen this part of 
 the Emperor's country feat, which to this day 
 had remained unknown to us ! Perhaps, indeed, 
 we have not feen the twentieth part of the 
 beauties contained in Yuen-ming-yuen ; for I have 
 been affured that its total circumference is little 
 fhort of three hundred // (thirty leagues). 
 
 4 We 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 57 
 
 We remained in our hotel, whither our court 
 conductor came to defire us to hold ourfelves in 
 readinefs to go at feven o'clock to-morrow morn- 
 ing to the palace, where we are to receive the 
 Emperor's letter for our Prince, and the laft pre- 
 fents, becaufe it is only then that our audience 
 of leave will really take place. 
 
 Our correfpondence with the Miffionaries is 
 now entirely open, by means of our Chinefe do- 
 meftics. We accordingly communicate with 
 them daily ; but we cannot indulge ourfelves in 
 the effufions, nor feel the pleafure refulting from 
 the prefence of thofe whom we are happy to fee. 
 We have reafon, neverthelefs, to be thankful for 
 this imperfect enjoyment. 
 
 10th. Although ready to fet off at a very 
 early hour, we were not conducted to court till 
 eleven o'clock. We palTed an hour in one of 
 the apartments of the weft fide, over the inner 
 court, into which the fouth gate leads. The 
 Naa-fan-tayen joined us there, and took us to an 
 outer court, through the fouth gate, at a fmall 
 diftance from-which we were drawn up in a line. 
 There the Liepou-chong-tfu, or Chief of the Tri* 
 bunal of Ceremonies, an aged man, who wore an 
 hexagonal oval button of a purple colour, came 
 
 to 
 
^3 VOYAGE OF T»E pnTCH 
 
 to congratulate his Excellency and me on our 
 being about to receive thelaft mark of the Em- 
 peror's favour. 
 
 We then performed, in obedience to the re- 
 gular word of command given by a Mandarin 
 in the train of the Liejiou, the ceremony of prof- 
 tration in honour of the Emperor, after which 
 the laft prefents of the Emperor were delivered to 
 us, confifting of the following articles : 
 
 For the Prince of Orange — Eighty rolls of filk, 
 and two fmall vafes of the ftone called ythcld. 
 
 For the Ambajjador — Thirty-four rolls of filk, 
 and a hundred and fifty taeh of fine filver. 
 
 For me— Eight rolls of filk, and eighty taeh 
 of filver. 
 
 For the jive gentlemen in the fuite of the Embaf — 
 Eight rolls of filk, and forty taeh of filver each. 
 
 For the Mechanifi, and the Jeventeen foldiers and 
 few ants— Four fmall rolls of fianche (plain narrow 
 filk) and fifteen taeh of filver each. 
 
 Our falute of honour, by way of thankfgiving, 
 having terminated the ceremony, we returned by 
 the weft gate, where we found our little carts 
 waiting in the outer court : we confequently 
 paffed along the outfide of the palace-walls. 
 
 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 59 
 
 The Emperor's letter for our Prince has not 
 yet been delivered to us, becaufe it is not yet 
 ready ; but it will be fent to us to-morrow, or 
 the day after. 
 
 In the afternoon, the Naa-fan-tayen came to 
 fpeak to us on bufinefs, and particularly to en- 
 quire what letters and effects we had brought for 
 the Mifiionaries. We gave him exacl infor- 
 mation on both thofe points. 
 
 • I took this opportunity to repeat my requeft 
 to fee my friend Grammont, as alfo for per- 
 miiiion to go and examine the great bell. The 
 Naa-fan-tayen allured us that he would ufe his 
 belt endeavours with the Voo-tchong-tang -, and 
 when going away flattered us with hopes of fee- 
 ing, at leaft, two of the Miiiionaries before our 
 departure from Pe-king. 
 
 The prefents intended for the two principal 
 Minifters, and the Naa-fan-tayen, were (till in our 
 poffeffion. To-day, however, a kind of ar- 
 rangement has been made for the acceptance 
 of the principal articles, on condition of our 
 taking a few trifles in return, in order to give 
 the appearance of an exchange to this gift, which 
 Would be contrary to the Emperor's prohibition, 
 
 forbiddins: 
 
60 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 forbidding all the Mandarins to accept prefents, 
 under the penalties of forfeiting their employs 
 and dignities. This affair was fettled with the 
 Naa-fan-tayen to the fatisfaclion of both parties. 
 
 nth. The Mandarins of Canton came to 
 concert meafures with us for our journey. They 
 took charge of the Emperor's prefents to the 
 Stadtholder, in order to have them carefully 
 packed up, and to deliver them to us at Canton. 
 
 Our court conductor aifured us, that his Ma- 
 jefty, while giving an audience of leave to the 
 firft of our Canton conductors, ordered him ex* 
 prefsly to let us travel as might beft fuit our con- 
 venience, and with all the accommodations it 
 might be poffible to procure ; to take care that a 
 good reception be given us on our route, and 
 that honours be paid us in the principal cities, 
 fuitable to the title of AmbafTador ; to let us fee 
 every thing curious, 8$c. &c. We may then 
 hope that our journey back will be agreeable, 
 efpecially, as among the Chinefe, an AmbafTador, 
 or even a private individual, who has been ad- 
 mitted into the prefence of the Emperor, always 
 enjoys much more confideration than before. 
 We have then more than one reafon to think 
 we fliall be better treated, at the fame time that 
 
 there 
 
EMBAS9Y TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. Cl 
 
 there will be no motive for accelerating our 
 journey, its lading a week or two, more or lefs, 
 being a thing of no importance. 
 
 1 2th. The Prime Minifter fent a Mandarin to 
 take the letters addrefled to the Miffionaries. 
 M. de Guignes, who was the depofitary of them, 
 hefitated at firft to deliver them ; but fearing 
 left _the refufal might produce fomething un- 
 pleafant, he at laft determined to give up all the 
 packets, which were immediately carried to the 
 palace, where we were affured the Miffionarie* 
 were then waiting to receive them. 
 
 I again ajfked whether I mould be permitted 
 to fee M. Grammont, and was told I mould; 
 but I am much afraid that there is a determi- 
 nation to prevent our feeing any Miffionary. 
 The Mandarins, from the higheft to the loweft, 
 mull: certainly be confcious of great culpability, 
 or they would not think it neceflary to carry dif- 
 truft to fuch a length. It is eafy alfo to fee how 
 great is the influence exercifed by the regency of 
 Canton over the firft perfonages in the empire, 
 fince it even goes to the prevention of a commu- 
 nication between the Miffionaries and us, which 
 could not, however, be attended with any ill con- 
 fluences. 
 
 13th. Wc 
 
6l VOYAGE OF THE DUTCfj 
 
 13th. We have been very bufy in packing up 
 our baggage, which will be fent off to-morrow, 
 in order that by its being continually before us, 
 we may never be obliged to wait for any thing. 
 
 I mud mention here, as fomething extraor- 
 dinary, that we have again ate this day of the 
 fturgeon which his Majefty made us a prefent 
 of on the nth of January, the day after our 
 arrival here. The frofl: has kept it perfectly 
 fweet, without there having been occalion to em- 
 ploy a {ingle grain of fait. We even expect to 
 carry fome away, to ferve us on the road •> but 
 that portion we ihall fait. 
 
 14th. Towards noon, M. Roux, a French 
 Miihonary, was introduced with a train of at 
 leaft a dozen Mandarins of different claffes. They 
 came to receive the cafes of wine, and other 
 things that we had brought for the different 
 Miiiionaries, as well as what we ourfelves in- 
 tended for Monfieurs Roux and Grammont. We 
 were permitted i to have half an hour's conver- 
 fation with him, during which time every eye 
 was upon the watch, to fee that we put no paper 
 into his hand, and that we communicated no* 
 thing to him on the part of any one elfe. 
 
 i This 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I7O4 — 5. 6 
 
 3 
 
 This converfation was, however, a matter of 
 fupererogation ; for during feveral davs pail 
 we had, by means of our fervants, conveyed back- 
 ward and forward every thing that by reafon of 
 its ftnall bulk could be fubtradled from the in- 
 quiiition of the Chinefe. Betides, the reiidence 
 of the French Miflionaries being onlv on the other 
 iide of the handfome bridge, which ftands in our 
 neighbourhood, our native fervants v. r ent there 
 daily with our letters, and brought back the 
 anfwers. 
 
 The nature of M. Roux's vifit convinced us 
 frill more flrongly of the diftruft with which we 
 have infpired the Chinefe. It ferves alfo to make 
 our departure more definable, efpecially as we 
 were informed by M. Roux, that M. Grammont 
 had in vain folicited permiifion of the Prime Mi- 
 nifter to join him in his viht. Being thus affured 
 that there is no difpofition to let us fee any thing 
 more, either the great bell, or the temples, in 
 regard to which I had exprefied fome curiofity, 
 we look forward to the day of our leaving Pe-king 
 with pleafure. 
 
 After M. Roux had paflfed a full half-hour 
 with us, the Mandarins began to prefs him to take 
 the things he came for. and to retire with theirs 
 
 He 
 
64 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 He was confequently obliged to leave us, though 
 with great regret* 
 
 In the afternoon the Emperor's letter to the 
 Stadtholder was at laft brought. It was put upon 
 a table in the great court-yard of the hotel, whi- 
 ther his Excellency and I went to perform the 
 falute of honour. The letter was afterwards 
 taken out of its bamboo cafe, and (hewn to us. 
 The whole is upon one page of a large fheet of 
 coloured and fliining Chinefe paper, and is written 
 in the Tartarian, Chinefe, and Latin languages. 
 A lift was added to it of the prefents made by 
 the Emperor to the Prince, as well as of thofe 
 which he has bellowed upon each individual of 
 the Embaffy. The AmbafTador read the Latin 
 letter and thought it very lingular. As foon as 
 he had done, the letter, enclofed in its yellow 
 cover, was put into its cafe, and then a Man- 
 darin took charge of it, in order to deliver it to 
 us at Canton. 
 
 Shortly after this ceremony, our baggage was 
 begun to be put into carts until night came, and 
 interrupted the bufinefs. I obferved that thefe 
 carriages have alfo bar-wheels, inftead of fpokcs, 
 and a fixed axle round which the wheel turns. 
 In that refpect alone they differ from thofe I de* 
 
 feribed 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— ^. 65 
 
 fcribed on the 4th of January. They refemble 
 them in eve;-y thing elfe, even to the harnefs. 
 
 Before I take leave of Pe-king, I think it in- 
 cumbent on me to make a few obfervations on 
 the ufual conftruclion of the Chinefe houfes in 
 the north of the empire, as well as on the manner 
 in which the Chinefe warm their apartments. 
 
 In all China the houfes are built upon the 
 ground ; that is to fay, without having any cellar 
 under them. The apartments are paved with 
 flat fquare bricks, a thing very agreeable in warm 
 weather, but very little fuitabje to the fevere 
 feafon of the year. 
 
 To defend them from the piercing cold which 
 they experience in the northern parts of the 
 Empire, the Chinefe have devifed fubterraneous 
 furnaces, placed outride the houfes in excavations 
 made on purpofe* Tubes go branching off from 
 thefe furnaces in every direction, under the bricks 
 of the floors^ and under a kind of platforms or 
 eftrades on which the Chinefe fleep. They even 
 pafs through the wallSj which divide the different 
 rooms, fo that the heat diffufed by thefe tubes 
 produces in the apartments the temperature cle- 
 ared. The fire is kept up night and day in the 
 
 Vol, II, F outer 
 
66 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 outer ftove or furnace, without the finalleffc 
 danger to the buildings, becaufe a coat of bricks 
 clofely confines that deftru&ive element, and op- 
 pofes its difaftrous effects. If the apartments be 
 fpacious and numerous, an increafed number of 
 ftoves and tubes always infure the fame refult. 
 
 It cannot be denied that this is an invention 
 honourable to Chinefe induftry ; and certainly it 
 is no fmall advantage, in a fevere climate, to enjoy 
 in the midft of winter's cold an agreeable heat 
 diffufed through all the apartments. It is in 
 thofe places efpecially, where thefe outer ftoves 
 are wanting, and where there is a neceflity of 
 having recourfe to the brafiers of charcoal of 
 which I have fpoken elfewhere, that the value of 
 this invention is the moft fenfibfy felt. 
 
 The Naa-jan-taydn came early in the evening 
 to take leave of us, and wilh us a pleafant journey. 
 He renewed his affurance that he would recom- 
 mend me particularly to the Tfong-tott, and the 
 Hou-Jiou of Canton, and that his letters mould pre" 
 cede our arrival there. He alfo faid again, that 
 perhaps he ihould be Hou-Jiou there himfetf the 
 cnfuing year, and that in that cafe he would 
 afford fpecial protection to the Dutch nation, 
 with whofe agent* he %>uld be happy to form a 
 
 friendly 
 
EMBASSY tO CHINA IN I794 — £. 67 
 
 friendly connection. He took leave of us with 
 remarkable affability, and with demonftrations of 
 kindnefs which befpoke the confummate courtier. 
 I attended him as far as the door of the flreet. 
 
 I have fince learnt that from our hotel he went 
 to examine one of the two pieces of mechanifm, 
 which is entirely repaired and put to rights by 
 M. Petit Pierre ; that he found the workman- 
 fhip and the contrivance equally excellent. He 
 expreffed great fatisfaction at one of thefe pieces 
 being mended, becaufe it would afford the means 
 of judging of the merit and value of our pre- 
 fents. 
 
 M. Roux Went alfo to infpect the fame piece of 
 mechanifm in the afternoon, which gave the five 
 gentlemen, whom curiofityhad carried there, like- 
 wife an opportunity to converfe for two hours with 
 the Miflionary. He was much flruck with the 
 beauty of the piece in queftion, and related that at 
 the time of the delivery of our prefents to the Em- 
 peror two very common things of the fame kind, 
 brought from Canton, had been put in the place 
 of ours, by way of avoiding the necellity of telling 
 his Majefty that they had been damaged on the 
 road. He affirmed befides that it was the plan 
 of the Mandarins to get the Prime Minifter to 
 
 F 2 prefent 
 
6S VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 prefent ours to the Emperor on fome folemn oo 
 cafion, without faying a word of their coming 
 from the Dutch. The Mandarin, who was charged 
 w T ith the conveyance of the baggage from Canton, 
 was indeed fharply reprimanded for his negli- 
 gence by the Prime Minifter ; but the excufe was, 
 that all the blame was attributable to the bad 
 package of our mechanift. By thefe means 
 they deceive the Emperor, in whofe name 
 the Voo-tc hong- tang may be faid to govern and 
 direct every thing as he pleafes. 
 
 We alio learned from M. Roux that it is very 
 probable that if the EmbafTy had come directly 
 from Europe or Batavia, we fliould have been 
 permitted to communicate freely with the Mif- 
 iionaries ; but that, as we were all perfons re- 
 sident at Canton except the Ambaflador, a mif- 
 placed policy had made the Mandarins refufe us 
 that favour. 
 
 The fame reafon was particularly powerful in 
 Xegard to M. Grammont, who was near three 
 years at C-mton, where I had concerns with him, 
 which increafed the apprehenfions of the Man- 
 darins. There is really fomething bordering upon 
 itupidity in their fears. Is it not inconceivable 
 that they have not been ftruck with the truth of 
 
 the 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1/94 — 5. 69 
 
 the obfervation I made to one of them fome time 
 fince ; that having daily opportunities of making 
 reprefentations to the Emperor and Prime Mi- 
 nifter, we mould never think of recurring to Mif- 
 fionaries, with whofe want of power we were but 
 too well acquainted, fuppofing that we had any 
 intentions of that kind, or an} important thing to 
 fay. 
 
 We have had the pleafure of M. Roux's com- 
 pany a great part of the morning. I afked him 
 for information concerning the European build- 
 ings in the Imperial country-houfe of Yuen-ming- 
 yuen. He told us that the plan of them had been 
 defigned by Father Benoit, a French Miflionary 
 in quality of architect ; and that they had been 
 built under his direction. The drawings which 
 I have of them are very exact, having been copied 
 from engravings made by the Miflionaries them- 
 felves after the plans of their fellow-prieft, 
 
 M. Roux added, that the country-houfe of 
 Yuen-ming-yuen contains thirty-fix diftincl habi- 
 tations within its walls, at fome diftance from 
 one another ; that each of them has its depen- 
 dencies, and the neceffary accommodations for 
 the Emperor and his fuite, and that the European 
 F 3 edifices 
 
70 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 edifices form one of thirty-fix dwellings or dU 
 villous. 
 
 According to this account, of the authenticity 
 of which I have not the fmalleft doubt, I have 
 reafon to believe that we have not feen the twen- 
 tieth part of the beauties of this immenfe domain, 
 to which no habitation of any Prince in Europe 
 is comparable, and of which the coft mud have 
 amounted to a prodigious fum. 
 
 Our mechanift this day delivered the piece of 
 mechanifm entirely repaired into the hands of a. 
 Mandarin, and of M. Roux, whom he apprifed 
 of its conftru£tion, in order that tr^e Chinefe may 
 not fpoil it, as they were very near doing yefter- 
 day and to-day, by touching it while M. Petit 
 Pierre was abfent. 
 
 15th. Our baggage being all upon the carts A 
 we parted with M. Roux with great regret, and 
 quitted our hotel. The Ambaflador and I took 
 our carts as far as the gate of the city, where our 
 palanciuins were waiting for us. The gentlemen 
 in the fuite of the Embafly followed us on horfe- 
 back. 
 
 Jt 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 7I 
 
 It was half paft three in the afternoon when we 
 fet off. As foon as we were without the gate 
 of the palace walls, our driver turned down a 
 ftreet leading to the fouthward, keeping for 
 fome time clofe to the rampart. Thence we pro- 
 ceeded to narrower and more irregular ftreets, 
 which took us a great way round, but at laft 
 brought us to the principal ftreet adjoining to 
 the gate called Tchnn-moun, the veiy fame by 
 which we entered Pe-king, and which we now 
 reached at twenty-five minutes after five. 
 
 In our way to the gate, I remarked on the eaft 
 fide the church an obfervatory of the Portuguefe 
 Miflionaries, which overlook the houfes. The 
 church is a handfome building, with a roof in the 
 form of a crofs ; and from a crofs ftreet I per- 
 ceived a very arched door of ftone making the 
 entrance of the edifice, the conftruction of which 
 is entirely European. 
 
 When I came to the fuburbs of Agauy-lau- 
 tching, outfide of the gate of Tc/iun-tnoun 9 and con- 
 fequently of the Tartarian city, my driver turned 
 off in order to take a bye road, on one fide of the 
 main ftreet, no doubt in order to avoid the crowd. 
 This brought us to a little narrow ftreet, and gave 
 me an opportunity of convincing myfelf that the 
 
 F 4 lateral 
 
yi VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 lateral ftreets are all very narrow, very irregular, 
 and very different from the principal ones, which 
 ftand in the direction cf the four cardinal points 
 of the compafs. 
 
 I alfo faw in the fuburbs large fpaces entirely 
 open; gardens behind the houfes, and feveral 
 places with mounts and rapid declivities, fo that 
 any one might have imagined himfelf in the 
 midft of the country. Hence I am of opinion 
 that thefe fuburbs are not regularly built upon, 
 unlefs in the ftreets which correfpond with the 
 gates of the city, all the intermediate parts being 
 probably as naked as the fpace we paffed through, 
 I was very much furprifed at it, for I fuppofed 
 that fuburbs, adjoining the Imperial refidence, 
 were entirely inhabited. 
 
 At half pad four, we paffed through the gate 
 of the firft city (the Chinefe town) : this gate is 
 iituated to the weftward, and is called the gate 
 of Tfay-Jiing. When we came to the paved road, 
 which I mentioned at the time of our arrival at 
 Pe-king, and wee at about five minutes walk from 
 the above gate, we found our palanquins waiting 
 for us. We bade an eternal adieu to our elegant 
 carriages, in order to get into thofe truly com- 
 modious vehicles, and continued our route over 
 
 the 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 73 
 
 the pavement. The road is not perfectly ftraight, 
 taking feveral turns more or lefs perceptible ; 
 but its principal direction is eaft-fouth-eaft, and 
 weft-fouth-weft. It keeps it as far as the little 
 city of Fee-c/iiug-ft, where after we had parted 
 the handfome itone bridge, we found the road 
 turn off to the fouth-fouth-weft. At feven 
 o'clock we patted through that fame town of 
 Fec-ching-fc, and arrived an hour afterwards at 
 Chin-tcheoLi-iin, a village of moderate fize, where 
 we flopped at a paltry inn, being under the ne- 
 cellity of parting the night there, as the late hour 
 of our departure had made it importable for us to 
 reach the lodging prepared for us thirty li farther 
 off. 
 
 Our fupper was very indifferent. Not having 
 my bed, I was obliged to lie down upon the 
 floor — a very bad fpecimen of our journey back. 
 
 1 6th. We proceeded on our journey at half 
 part: feven this morning, and at three o'clock 
 reached Lian-hiang-chen, where we ought to have 
 arrived yerterday evening. 
 
 I faw on the road three elegant temples, with 
 convents, one of which is a fpacious building. 
 
 All 
 
74 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH! 
 
 AH of them are inclofed with walls in the form 
 of ramparts, kept in excellent repair. 
 
 We fet off at half paft eleven, and after being 
 three hours upon the road (lopped at Tan-tfin-y, 
 m order that our Coulis might take a repaft. We 
 then fet off again, and at fix o'clock reached the 
 fuburbs of Tfo-tchou, where tolerably good lodg- 
 ings were prepared for us. In this part of our 
 journey we faw four temples and convents of 
 very neat appearance, one of which belongs to 
 the feet of Lamas. 
 
 We alfo pafled over the magnificent bridge 
 which I mentioned on the 8th of January. Here, 
 however, I mull add, that at each extremity of 
 it are large and handfome triumphal arches of 
 wood with three pafTages, and having each an 
 open hexagonal pavilion at its fide. In thefe 
 pavilions ftand feveral large ftones, bearing in- 
 fcriptions in honour of the architect of the 
 bridge, in the middle of which, and upon the 
 north fide is a dome of yellow varnifhed tiles, 
 alfo covering a monumental {lone. In front of 
 the northern triumphal arch is another dome 
 fupported by four rows of Hone pillars, each 
 row confifting of four. On each fide of thq 
 
 north 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5. 75 
 
 north entrance of this place there Hands on ^ 
 ftone pedeftal an enormous lion of caft iron, 
 painted of a greenifh colour to imitate that of 
 bronze. 
 
 During our afternoon's journey we were over- 
 taken at three o'clock by a violent north wind, 
 which raifed clouds of duft fo thick as to inter- 
 cept the light of the fun. It was impoffible to 
 diftinguifh objects at twenty yards diftance, and 
 we were almoft ftifled in our palanquins. The 
 fury of the wind foon abated a little, but all the 
 reft of the night bore, neverthelefs, a ftrong re- 
 femblance to a tempeft. We found on a wall 
 in one of the apartments of our inn a Malay in- 
 fcription, written in Arabic characters, of which 
 M. de Guignes took a copy on account of its 
 Singularity. 
 
 After a tolerable fupper we paffed a pretty 
 good night. 
 
 17th. Having only fixty U to travel to-day, 
 we did not fet off till a quarter paft nine. I re- 
 marked in the north-eaft part of the city two 
 lofty towers ftanding clofe to each other, and 
 exactly of the fame kind. In twenty-five minutes 
 we went from one end of the town to the other 
 
 U 
 
76 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 in a right line from north to fouth. Beyond the? 
 fouth gate are fuburbs of confiderable extent. 
 
 To the eaft of the road is a large and hand- 
 fome temple (landing by a convent. In the 
 walls common to both of them are three gates 
 fronting the fouth, the middle one having three 
 paflages and being of enormous fize. The front 
 of thefe gates is a large fquare court, the fides of 
 which are regularly planted with lofty trees, fuch 
 as are not unfreciuently feen round buildings of 
 this fort. 
 
 A little further to the fouth we faw another 
 temple, and a convent belonging to the Lamas, 
 but lefs confiderable in extent. 
 
 At half part eleven we came to another temple 
 and another convent. The fame thing occurred 
 again at noon at the entrance of the village of 
 Fankouu, where we halted half an hour to give 
 our Cculis time to eat. Setting off afterwards we 
 arrived at half pall three at our lodgings without 
 the walls of the little city of Sin-cking-cken, which 
 were in the fame public building where we were 
 on the feventh of January at noon, and where 
 we met with tolerable accommodations. 
 
 By 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 $. 77 
 
 By making further enquiry we found that the 
 building in which we are lodged is a pagoda 
 dedicated to Saint Itching-cong^ who inhabits the 
 front hall. We were very well treated here, and 
 enjoyed a good fupper and refrelhing fleep. 
 
 . The weather was very cold to-day, the wind 
 .blowing ftrong from the fouth-weft, which again 
 raifed fuffocating clouds of duft. 
 
 At a fmall diftance north of the city, I obferved 
 in my way a tower conftructed like that which 
 I had feen on the 9th of January near the city of 
 Peking ; that is to fay, that its lower part confifts 
 only of one ftory, while the upper confifts of nine 
 fmall ones, above which is a roof ending in a 
 point. 
 
 Oppofite our lodgings, and to the weftward of 
 a little river at prefent frozen, is a very band- 
 fome and very fpacious town-houfe, with a 
 garden belonging to it. In the front of the 
 building is a large piece of ground, overfha- 
 dowed on every fide by lofty trees, which feerhs 
 to be a place of exercife for the troops. The 
 edifice and the garden are inclofed behind and 
 on the fides by a w r all ; but the efplanade is onlv 
 
 protected 
 
£8 VOYAGE 6F THE DtJTCH 
 
 protected by a ditch or canal, with two bridges 
 oppofite the building. 
 
 During our (hort flay this morning in the vil- 
 lage of Fan-konn, I had an opportunity of feeing a 
 tinker execute what I believe is unknown in 
 Europe. He mended and foldered frying-pans 
 of caft iron that were cracked and full of holes, 
 and reftored them to their primitive ftate, fo that 
 they became as ferviceable as ever. He even 
 took fo little pains to effect this, and fucceeded 
 fo fpeedily as to excite my aftonifhment. It 
 muft indeed appear impoffible to any one who 
 has not been witnefs to the procefs. 
 
 All the apparatus of the workman confifts in a 
 little box fixteen inches long, fix inches wide, 
 and eighteen inches in depth, divided into two 
 parts. The upper contains three drawers, with 
 the neceffary ingredients ; in the lower is a 
 bellows, which, when a fire is wanted, is adapted 
 to a furnace eight inches long and four inches 
 wide. The crucibles for melting the fmall pieces 
 of iron intended to ferve as folder are a little 
 larger than the bow T l of a common tobacco pipe, 
 and of the fame earth of which they are made in 
 Europe} thus the. whole bufinefs of foldering is 
 executed. 
 
 2 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. 79 
 
 The workman receives the melted matter out 
 of the crucible upon a piece of wet paper, ap- 
 proaches it to one of the holes or cracks in the 
 trying-pan, and applies it there, while his affiftant 
 fmooths it over by fcraping the furface, and af- 
 terwards rubs it with a bit of wet linen. The 
 number of crucibles which have been deemed 
 neceffary are thus fuccelTively emptied in order 
 to ilop up all the holes with the melted iron* 
 which confolidates and incorporates itfelf with 
 the broken utenfil, and which becomes as good 
 as new. 
 
 The furnace which I faw was calculated to 
 contain eight crucibles at a time, and while the' 
 fufion was going on was covered with a done' 
 by way of increafing the intensity of the heat. 
 
 1 8th. Setting off this morning at nine o'clock 7 > 
 We reached at twelve the little city of Pay-/;au-fe, 
 where the Coulis flopped to refrefh. Proceeding 
 on our journey we came aj: three o'clock to 
 Hiong-chen, where we pafied the night in a very 
 indifferent Conqumu 
 
 During the greateft part of the evening our 
 road lay along the banks of a river, which was 
 ftill blocked up by the ice. We went ten H 
 
 towards 
 
So VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 towards the fouth, thirty li to the fouth-fouth-eafr, 
 and then jtwenty li in a fouth-eait direction. The 
 wind* which was at north-weft for a fhort time, 
 blew with much violence, and incommoded us as • 
 well with duft as with the cold. 
 
 This evening our fecottd conductor folicited us 
 very earneftly to confent to travel one hundred 
 and twenty // to-morrow, in order to arrive at an 
 early hour at the city of Ho kin-fou, where we 
 are to receive an entertainment and fome pre- 
 fents on the part of the Emperor. The Am- 
 baflador, after a little hefitation, acquiefced. 
 
 19th. We were on our way this morning at 
 jir'.f paft fix. At nine o'clock the Coulis took 
 their breakfaft at Tchou-Jie-hau, and at half paft 
 twelve we reached the city of Yin-hion-dien, 
 without the walls of which we flopped for half 
 an hour in a pubiic-houfe, in order to take fome 
 refrefhment. Having accomplished our purpofe 
 we fet off again, and at a quarter paft rive came 
 to the town of }. I >/-/ioi{, where we palled the 
 night very commodioufly. 
 
 Our road, during the whole of this day, lay 
 through a marfhy country, and at fome diftance 
 I perceived thiee or four lakes, which had been 
 
 concealed 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — Jj. Si 
 
 concealed from me by the darknefs of the night 
 when on my way to Pe-king. 
 
 I obferved, near the city of Yin-kion-chen. three 
 tombs, having each a triumphal arch of ftone at 
 their entrance ; in the reft of the fpace between 
 the gate and the grave ftand in fucceflion, and 
 facing each other, two ftone pillars, two fitting 
 lions, two rams lying down, two horfes faddled, 
 and two ftatues of Mandarins. A little further 
 on is a tomb overfhadowed by a thick grove of 
 cyprefs. 
 
 At the" entrance of Chek-moun-kiou we met 
 with a monument compofed of a folid block of 
 white marble, about ten feet high by two feet 
 and a half wide, and one foot thick, ftanding 
 upon the back of a tortoife, alfo cut out of a 
 fingle ftone. An inscription is engraved upon 
 the block. 
 
 Thefe are the only things that had efcaped me 
 in going to Pe-king, 
 
 This morning our route was fouth, and then 
 fouth-fouth-weft till about noon, when it refumed 
 its firft direction. The wind, which was wefterly 
 and blew very cold, abated in the afternoon. 
 
 Vol. II. G aoth. At 
 
&1 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 20th. At half paft feven we quitted our 
 lodging, and at a quarter paft nine found our- 
 felves in the city of Ho-kien-fou, where we were 
 iirft conducted to a public edifice to get our 
 breakfaft. 
 
 At half paft: eleven we were taken to the 
 Imperial court, a building conftru&ed in all the 
 capital cities of provinces, and even in fomc 
 others that are not dignified with that title. 
 The Emperor's tablet (chaji) which is placed 
 upon an altar in the principal hall, receives 
 the falute of honour at every new and full 
 moon from all the Mandarins. A difcharge of 
 artillery and military mufic announced our 
 -paffage ; firft, before the troops that were drawn 
 up in a line, and then in front of a long file of 
 Mandarins. After thefe was the Governor of the 
 Province and another great Mandarin who con- 
 gratulated his Excellency and me on our arrival, 
 and who conducted us to an outer hall to (hew 
 xis the Emperor's prefents and entertainment, 
 and then to the great hall beyond it. There, 
 with the two great Mandarins and our two firft 
 ''conductors, we performed the falute before the 
 Emperor's chap, with our heads covered. We 
 then returned to the outer hall, where we were 
 4 defired 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. $3 
 
 defired to fit down upon cufhions, by little tables 
 covered with fweetmeats and paftry. 
 
 As foon as we were feated a company of co- 
 medians began to perform upon a very neat 
 theatre, erected on purpofe oppofite the hall. 
 Several hot dimes, particularly roaft and boiled 
 meat, were afterwards ferved up, and cups of 
 Samfou were prefented to us for our beverage. 
 We were waited upon by Mandarins of the gold 
 button. We tafted a variety of things, and after 
 having remained till nearly half paft twelve, we 
 rofe, took leave, and departed. 
 
 The prefents confifted of four half rolls of filk, 
 and four pieces of narrow flowered filk (pe/ang) 
 for the AmbafTador, and the fame for me. Half 
 as much of the fame articles was given to each 
 of the five gentlemen in the fuite of the Embaffy, 
 and the reft of his retinue received a few pieces 
 of plain panche. The whole of thefe gifts were 
 put into a little box, of which one of the Man- 
 darins took charge. 
 
 We patted through a very long ftreet, lined 
 
 on both fides with temporary (hops, full of all 
 
 forts of merchandize, and having much refem- 
 
 G 2 blance 
 
84 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 blance to an European fair. The city is very 
 populous, although we perceived fo many fpots 
 not built upon, that we had reafon to think that 
 icarcely a fourth of the fpace inclofed by the walls 
 is occupied. And even in the part that is, a 
 great many houfes are in a ruinous condition, as 
 I had before occafion to obferve. 
 
 The two gates of the city through which we 
 paffed are both guarded externally by a femi- 
 circular baftion, having two lateral entrances. 
 This mode of conftruction is common to all the 
 baftions that (land before the gates of the Chinefe 
 cities, fo that the openings of the baftions and 
 the gates of the town can never be enfiladed 
 upon the fame line. In the middle of thefe baf- 
 tions four fmall iron guns are placed upon a heap 
 of ftones, with their muzzles turned towards the 
 paflage, and in this confifts the whole of their de- 
 fence, which we could not help confidering at 
 highly ridiculous. 
 
 Our road conducted us through feveraT villages 
 and hamlets. We alfo favv feveral pagodas in 
 fo ruinous a ftate that idols, which no doubt in 
 former days were the objects of great veneration, 
 were now expofed to the injuries of the air. 
 
 We 
 
IMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. S$ 
 
 We arrived at a quarter paft five at the city 
 of Hien-cken, where lodgings for the night had 
 been prepared for us with forne degree of care. 
 We found the ramparts of this place in dill worfe 
 condition than when we pafled through it before, 
 and the houfes make no better an appearance 
 than thofe of the molt miferable hamlet. 
 
 In thefe parts the farmers are already very bufy 
 in carrying manure upon the land intended for 
 feed. In another place, and towards the after- 
 noon I faw ground fown by means of a machine 
 of very fimple conftrucYion. 
 
 It confifts of two flicks or pieces of wood about 
 four feet long, the lower extremities of which 
 are fhod with a kind of iron wedge that ferves to 
 open the furrow. A little above is a fquare box 
 placed between the two flicks, and tapering 
 downwards in the fhape of a funnel, behind 
 this is a plank put acrofs for the purpofe of co- 
 vering up the furrow after the feed has fallen in. 
 This inftrument is put in motion by means ot two 
 wheels. Two Chinefe draw it, while a third 
 who guides with his two hands, firit fows one, 
 and then the other furrow. I had already con- 
 ceived from the regularity with which I obferved 
 every thing growing in the fields that fome ma- 
 
 G 3 chine 
 
8(5 VOYAGE OF THE DUTClf 
 
 chine was employed for fowing, and I was not 
 a little pleafed at having an opportunity of feeing' 
 both the inftrument and the manner in which it 
 is ufed. 
 
 2 1 ft. We fet off at eight o'clock with the in- 
 tention of travelling eighty li. At nine we paffed 
 by the little city of C/iin-ka-kien, which is defti- 
 tute of ramparts, and the two gates of which 
 are tumbling to ruins. Beyond the fouth gate is 
 a ftone bridge which appears to have ftood 
 for ages, but which is ftill in good condition. 
 As yet I had not feen any of fo lingular a con* 
 ftruction. 
 
 This bridge has four great femi-circular arches, 
 and three fmaller ones placed at the top of the 
 intervals between them, fo that the upper portion 
 of the piers, which is in general a folidmafs, here 
 affords an additional paifage upon an increafe of 
 the river. The water at fuch times finds a way 
 through the fupplementary arches as well as 
 through the three principal ones, and as the 
 a6f.ion of the ftream is thus diminifhed, there is 
 no longer any danger of the bridge being carried 
 away. I could not help praifing this provident 
 invention, and admiring the genius who con- 
 ceived 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 87 
 
 ceived the idea and the utility refulting from its 
 fuccefs. 
 
 At a quarter paft eleven we arrived at Fan- 
 c/iing-ek, another little city alfo without ramparts, 
 but not without gates. We there made a fcanty 
 dinner ; and fetting off again at half paft twelve 
 arrived at a quarter paft three in the faburbs of 
 the city of Fan-ching-chen, where we paffed a 
 comfortable night. 
 
 From Pe-king hither all the crows we had met 
 with were entirely black. However this after- 
 noon I faw two with the upper part of their 
 necks white. I had already been furprifed in 
 going towards the capital of China, at my never 
 having feen any black crows in the fouthern pro- 
 vinces, and at not feeing any pied ones in the 
 north. 
 
 Arriving at an early hour at Fau-c/iing-c/ien, I 
 fent one of the fervants of the Mandarins in 
 fearch of fuch a fowing machine as I had feen 
 yefterday. He brought me one immediately, 
 but it was double, that is to fay, fo contrived as 
 to fow two furrows at a time. I paid a dollar 
 and a half for it, and mean to take it with me. 
 It is, however, very different from that defcribed 
 
 G 4 above, 
 
S8 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 above, having no wheels, and being of a more 
 complicated conftruction. This acquifition gives 
 me a great deal of pleafure. 
 
 We fet off at half paft feven, and a little after 
 eleven reached the fuburbs of King-tcheou, where 
 we made a very hafty dinner. 
 
 This city is remarkable for a very lofty octa- 
 gonal tower of twelve ftories, that I had not feen 
 on my way to Pe-king by reafon of the night. 
 We paffed through a ftreet, in which ftand 
 three very Landfome triumphal arches of ftone* 
 King-tcheou may alfo boaft of ramparts kept in 
 very good repair, and of a very lofty temple of 
 three ftories at a fmall diftance from the tower. 
 The houfes are Very mean, outfide at leaft; 
 for in China there is no judging of the infide, 
 the handfomeft palace feldom exhibiting any 
 tiding but four dead walls, except indeed the 
 gate-way in the front. It is the fame with re- 
 gard to the houfes, unlefs they be fhops, in 
 which cafe they are open to the ftreet. 
 
 Setting offagain at half paft twelve, we reach- 
 ed in two hours the territory of the province 
 of Chan-tong, in which the foldiers drew up in 
 
 front 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 89 
 
 front of all the guard-houfes upon the road as 
 we were palling by. 
 
 I obferved with aftonifhment in the province 
 of Tc/ie/i, where there are guard-houfes at five 
 li diftance from one another, that they are almoft 
 all in bad condition, and many of them abfo- 
 lately tumbling down. It feldom happened that 
 we faw fo many as three or four foldiers come 
 out of them, which furprifed me the more, as it 
 was natural to think that in the province of which 
 the Emperor makes his refidence things would 
 be better regulated than elfewhere. Here, how- 
 ever, the very contrary is the cafe. 
 
 The period of our days journey was 77- 
 tc/ieou, where to-morrow we are to partake of 
 an entertainment, and to receive prefents on the 
 part of his Imperial Majefty. A quarter of an 
 hour before we arrived there we met with two tri- 
 umphal arches. In the fpace intervening between 
 them the road was lined with the garrifon of the 
 city, through the ranks of which we pafTed in 
 our palanquins, and at each triumphal arch were 
 faluted with three guns. The fame was repeated 
 when we came to the gates of the city. After 
 having palTed through feveral ftreets we came to 
 our lodgings, which confift of two buildings con- 
 3 tiguous 
 
$0 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 tiguous to each other, and are confequently both 
 fpacious and convenient. 
 
 The city is not large, but is furrounded by a 
 flrong wall. It appears to contain a number of 
 good houfes, as far at leaft as we could judge 
 from their exterior. Its population is alfo con- 
 fiderable, but it can boaft of nothing worth the 
 attention of the traveller. 
 
 A fhort time before we entered the city we 
 pafied the river over a bridge of boats, and found 
 its banks crowded with the fame veffels that were 
 there when we were on our way to Pe-king. 
 The ice is, however, broken up, but many por- 
 tions of it are floating down the ftream. 
 
 Soon after our arrival at our lodgings the Go- 
 rernor of the city, a Mandarin of the blue tran- 
 fparent button, came to congratulate us on our 
 return, and to enquire after our health. The 
 fame thing was done by another great Manda- 
 rin, the next in dignity to the Governor. 
 
 This evening we were joined by' our third 
 conductor, who, by his kindnefs and attention 
 fince our departure from Pe-king, has entirely re- 
 covered our good opinion, and even acquired 
 
 our 
 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. 91 
 
 our friendship. He informed the AmbafTador 
 that there are from this town two roads, both of 
 which lead to the place where we are to embark; 
 one running along thofe parts of the province of 
 Chan-tong, through which we had pafled in com- 
 ing, and the other going right acrofs that pro- 
 vince, and even faving us a whole days journey; 
 he added that we might take the one moft agree- 
 able to his Excellency. For the fake of variety, 
 that which croffes Chan-tong was .preferred, and 
 the diftance regulated which we were to travel 
 every day. The refult is that our journey through 
 that province will take up nine days. We (hall 
 then travel by land three days more in the pro- 
 vince of Kiang-nam, as far as Von-ka-fen, at a fhort 
 diftance from which we mail find boats ready t& 
 receive us. Hence we promife ourfelves a great 
 deal of pleafure arifing from a new country and 
 new objects. 
 
 At half paft nine o'clock this morning we were 
 invited to go to the Imperial Court, fituated at 
 the angle of the fouth-eafr. part of the city, near 
 which, upon a (harp-pointed baftion, ftand a 
 pagoda and a fmall tower. The latter is only 
 four ftories high, but the ftile of the architecture 
 is pleafing. 
 
 W 
 
X)Z VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 We were received at the court with a repe- 
 tition of the ceremonies performed at Ho-kien-fon 
 on the 20th of this month. The hall and the 
 theatre were here more ornamented than at the 
 former place ; but the filk and other decorations 
 were of a more ordinary kind. 
 
 At the moment when we had advanced to the 
 front of the altar, in order to perform the cere- 
 mony of proftration, a letter was read to us from 
 the Emperor to the Governor of the Province, 
 importing, according to the tranflation of our 
 Lingua, that his Majefty being very well pleafed 
 with the Dutch Embafiy, as well as with the 
 conduct of the AmbaiTador and thofe who ac- 
 companied him, and wifhing to give them ftill 
 farther proofs of his fatisfaclion, ordered the Go- 
 vernor of the Province of Chan-tong to entertain 
 us in his name, to make us prefents, and to treat 
 us with the greateft refpecl. 
 
 When the whole was read we performed the 
 falute of honour, keeping our hats on while pay- 
 ing the cuftomary compliments and civilities to 
 the different Mandarins. We were then delired 
 to fit down upon cufbions placed by the fide of 
 fmail tables covered with paltry and fruit, which 
 
 were 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 93 
 
 ■were removed to make room for two fucceffive 
 courfes of boiled meat and vegetables. 
 
 As foon as we were feated the amufements 
 began with tumblers, who made feveral leaps 
 'with remarkable addrefs. 
 
 The Imperial prefents were precifely the fame 
 both in nature and quality as thofe of Hau-kien- 
 fou; and here alfo were given in charge to our 
 Mandarins. 
 
 We rofe from table at half paft ten, and took 
 Jeave of the Mandarins, after thanking them for 
 the handfome reception they had given us. We 
 then feated ourfelves once more in our palan- 
 quins. On quitting the fuburbs we were paid 
 the fame military honours as yefterday. 
 
 We proceeded along a fmall and wide road, 
 which for the moft part lay between fields of 
 arable land of a better quality than that of the 
 Province of Tche-li. We pafTed through no lefs 
 than eleven villages and hamlets, and difcovered 
 at lead double that number on the two fides of 
 the road. At about half a league from the city 
 of Ping-yiieu-chen, is a noble hexagonal tower of 
 it\Qn ftories, with projecting roofs at each. It 
 
 ftande 
 
54 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 ftands in the midft of the fields, and is entirely 
 infulated. 
 
 Still nearer the town is a tomb with a tri- 
 umphal arch of ftone, and figures fimilar to thofe 
 that I defcribed under the date of the 19th of this 
 month ; except that here two elephants flood 
 next to the horfes. The city is announced by 
 delightful environs ; trees of various kind? and 
 magnitudes hamlets interfperfed with groves of 
 cedar and cyprefs, covering with their made the 
 laft afylum of man: every thing concurred to 
 render the profpect one of the moll; interefting 
 that I had feen for a long time; particularly 
 when gilded by the rays of the fetting fun. 
 
 We have this day feen a greater number of 
 orchards than in any other part of our journey. 
 
 On coming to the city of Pitig-yuen-cJien, we 
 found the garrifon under arms, and were faluted 
 while palling bfl When we reached the gate, 
 we were conducted through the principal ftreet, 
 where formerly ftood five triumphal arches of 
 ftone, of four of which no more than the pedeftal 
 and a few fragments now remain. From 
 thence we were taken to the vicinity of the fouth 
 gate, where we found excellent accommodations 
 
 and 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I79A — 5. 95 
 
 and a good table in a very large building, oppo- 
 fite the door of which ftands another magni- 
 ficent triumphal arch of ftone. 
 
 The Regent or Governor of the city came to 
 pay his compliments to us, and made an apology 
 for not treating us better. We replied to his 
 courtefy in fuitable terms, and he retired after a 
 fliort converfation. 
 
 This city, which forms a long fquare, is fur- 
 rounded with handfome walls, but not more 
 than one half of its internal fpace is built upon. 
 To the weftward are feveral edifices in tolerably 
 good condition, in the number of which we re- 
 marked a very neat temple covered with green 
 varniftied tiles, It was by afcending to the top 
 of the rampart and of the gate of the city, by; 
 means of a flight of brick fteps, that I was en- 
 abled to difcern thofe objects. 
 
 ■ 
 
 At the entrance of a narrow ftreet near our 
 lodgings is a triumphal arch of ftone, fimilar to 
 that which ftands in front of our prefent abode, 
 and which proves that it was once the refidence 
 of fome diftinguilhed perfons, whofe virtues.have 
 been deemed worthy of celebration. 
 
 In 
 
96 VOVAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 In our very lodgings one of the halls contains 
 feveral coffins inciofing dead bodies. Several of 
 them bear marks of great antiquity, and yet they 
 are flill preferved. This is indeed* a favourite 
 cuftom among the Chinefe of very elevated rank. 
 
 I was once in a pagoda at Honam, oppofite 
 Canton, in which coffins are likewife depofited 
 in little rooms or feparate fpaces, and was af- 
 fured that fome of them were more than a cen- 
 tury old. 
 
 There is a particular fpecies of wood in, China 
 confidered as unperifiiable; of this they make 
 coffins, fome of which coil more than a hundred 
 and fifty Louis d'ors. The Chinefe, let his pe- 
 cuniary means be ever fo fmall, procures while 
 living, either for himfelf or his family, the beft 
 wood he can buy, and keeps it with great care 
 at the entrance of his houfe till wanted for the 
 laft abode of a being who is no more, but whofe 
 pride has furvived him. 
 
 23d. Almoft the whole of this day our road 
 took a fouth-eaft direction, and at a quarter pall 
 five in the evening we had travelled more than 
 eighty li (eight leagues). We were carried by a bo- 
 dy of Coulis j who haye been with us ever fince the, 
 
 feventeenth, 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 97 
 
 feventeenth, and whom we (hall probably retain 
 till we come to the place where we are to take 
 water. The confequence is that we can now 
 proceed on our journey, and ftop where we 
 pleafe, without fufFering the inconveniences, and 
 even the torments that were fo liberally difpenfed 
 to us by thofe wretches in our way to Pe-king. 
 
 It is furprifing however that the Conlis are able. 
 to undergo fuch fatigue. Each palanquin has 
 three relays, or twelve bearers, and a guide. 
 Four Cou/is carry the palanquin for half an hour, 
 while two others walk by the fide of it. They 
 have, it is true, a cart in which fix men may lit 
 and reft themfelves; but one half of them are 
 always actively employed. 
 
 This evening a vifit was paid us by two pro- 
 vincial Mandarins, who both wear the dark blue 
 button, and who are to accompany us as long as 
 within their diftrict. One of them is, however, 
 of more elevated dignity than the other ; the co- 
 vering of his palanquin being of an olive green, 
 and his train confiding of no lefs than twenty-feven 
 perfons on horfeback. Thefe two Mandarins 
 pafTed about an hour with us. They fmoaked a 
 pipe, drank a glafs of Cape wine, and then left 
 
 Yql. II. H us, 
 
$S VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 us, apparently well fatisfied with the reception 
 we had given them. 
 
 24th. We fet offthis morning at feven o'clock, 
 and were fainted as we patted, both at the fouth 
 and eaft gate. It was by the latter that we left 
 the city, and at the extremity of the fuburbs we 
 w r ere received by frefh difcharges of artillery and 
 other milirary honours. During this day and 
 yefterday we have not paffed a fingle guard-houfe 
 without the foldiers turning out, and drawing up 
 in a line. 
 
 At a quarter paft twelve we reached the town 
 of Un-ckan-kiou, where we dined. While we 
 were approaching it, the whole garrifon turned 
 out under arms, with colours flying, and did the 
 fame at the other end of the place when we left if. 
 
 At a quarter paft five we came to the town of 
 Tfi-hochen oufang, the end of our day's journey, 
 where we met with tolerable accommodations* 
 This place makes a much better appearance out? 
 fide than many cities, and is of considerable fize. 
 We have this day paffed through, or clofe by, 
 thirteen villages, and have perceived a ftill 
 greater number at a fmall diftance from the road, 
 
 Thi 5 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 99 
 
 This morning I had the curiofity to count the 
 villages that I could fee from my palanquin with- 
 out change of pofture, and found one and twenty 
 in the fpace which my eye took in, and which 
 might comprife about three fourths of the circle 
 of the horizon. An hour after I began again, and 
 a like number prefented themfelves to my view. 
 Hence we may conclude that this part of the 
 province is inhabited by more cultivators than 
 the weftern diftricfs, which we pafTed through in 
 our way to Pe-king> and which appeared to us fo 
 wretchedly poor. 
 
 All the day we parTed between corn fields, 
 which in the fummer feafon, when embellifhed 
 by verdure, enamelled with flowers, and enriched 
 with a yellow harveft, mult compofe a very de- 
 lightful landfcape. 
 
 In the afternoon we parTed clofe to the city of 
 Va-king-chen, which, from without, and from the 
 fpot whence we had a view of it, appeared 
 to be a pretty large place, furrounded with good 
 ramparts. On the outfide of the eaft and fouth 
 gates there are two magnificent temples, with 
 other buildings belonging to them, {landing 
 within the fame walls. Their roofs are covered 
 H z witk 
 
$ 
 
 100 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 with green varnifhed tiles, and the whole is kept 
 in very good repair. 
 
 25th. We proceeded on our journey at half 
 pad feven, and found the troops drawn up at the 
 end of the town. At a quarter paft nine we 
 reached the city of T/i-io-c/ien, where we dined. 
 The garrifon here was alfo under arms. The 
 city is furrounded with handfome walls, is hand- 
 fomely built, and appears very populous. In 
 front of the north gate is an Imperial pavilion, in 
 which ftands a none monument, and a little far- 
 ther on, a great pagoda in very good prefer- 
 vation. 
 
 In the interior of the city, near the fouth gate, 
 is alfo an Imperial pagoda, and a Hone monu- 
 ment bearing an infcription. 
 
 Setting off at half pad ten we pafled a river 
 beyond the gate, over which ftands a very folid 
 ftone bridge, two hundred and feventy-five paces 
 long. We began now to approach the moun~ 
 tains, which we faw for the firft time fince our 
 departure from Pe-king, 
 
 In the afternoon we pafled to the weftward of 
 a temple and and an immenfe convent. To the 
 
 fouth 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794-^5. ' Idt 
 
 fouth are three gates, with three pafiages leading 
 through the centre one, and within the circuit of" 
 the walls ftand no lefs than twenty buildings in 
 very good repair. Before thefe gates is a large 
 open fquare fpace, having on two fides a confider- 
 able building furrounded with a double row of 
 lofty trees, making altogether a very handfome 
 appearance. 
 
 At half paft one we entered into a deep valley 
 between two mountains, very narrow at its en- 
 trance, and (kirted on both fides by fteep rocks. 
 We patted through five villages fituated in this 
 valley ; and perceived to the weftward a cattle 
 feated on the fummit of one of the higher!: moun- 
 tains. 
 
 To the eartward of the town of Chang- tjin-chen* 
 anfang ; and upon the top of a mountain of con- 
 iiderable elevation, planted with cyprefs trees, 
 ftands a magnificent temple, inclofed with walls, 
 and offering a very pleafing object to the eye. 
 
 Half an hour afterwards we again crotted a, 
 river by a bridge perfectly horizontal, through 
 which are thirty-feven narrow pafiages for the 
 water. All the ftones with which it is built arc 
 ©f confiderable dimenfions, and are faflened to- 
 ll 3 gether 
 
102 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 gether on every fide with iron clamps, a thing I 
 never obferved elfewhere. 
 
 At a quarter paft four we came to the village 
 of Chang-hay a> where we pafled the night in a to- 
 lerable inn. 
 
 Our road for the molt part took a fouth-eaft 
 direction. The wind which blew violently from 
 the fouth, while we were pafling through the 
 gorge of the mountains, raifed a dull which in- 
 commoded us a good deal. 
 
 Before we arrived at thofe mountains we had 
 pafled, as on the preceding day, between fields of 
 arable land, and had alfo met with a great num- 
 ber of villages. 
 
 We obferved to-day a great number of or- 
 chards, particularly in the neighbourhood of ha- 
 bitations. Pears, which were here very large, 
 were fold by the road fide. Yefterday one was 
 given me at my lodgings, which meafured 
 fourteen inches round, and taken lengthwife fif- 
 teen and a half. This kind of pear appears to be 
 the only one known in the northern provinces. 
 Its colour is a beautiful mining yellow. Before 
 
 it 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. IO3 
 
 jt is pared it feems hard, but when eaten, it is 
 juicy, melting, and of an agreeable tafte. 
 
 In Europe there are feveral forts I mould pre- 
 fer to this, although it is the beft I ever ate in 
 China. 
 
 At Pe-king I never faw rhOre than one fort of 
 apple, which is of a very indifferent quality, 
 mealy, of an infipid flavour, and more calculated 
 to pleafe the eye than the tafte. 
 
 I remarked this morning in the "city* while 
 walking through the market-place^ a confider- 
 able quantity of yellow carrots, of very extraor- 
 dinary length and thicknefs, fince they are much 
 bigger than thofe of Hoorn in Holland. They 
 appear to be very common. There were alfo 
 turnips of prodigious fize, the ikin of which is of 
 a crimfon colour. 
 
 As to the houfes I was furprifed at their all 
 having very lofty roofs covered with thatch or 
 tiles, and not flat ones as in the weftern parts of 
 the province of Chan-tong, and in that of Tchi-li. 
 I alfo obferved that none of the caftles fo frequent- 
 ly met with in the provinces I have juft mention- 
 ed are to be feen here. 
 
 H 4 Chang-hay a, 
 
104 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Chang-haya> the village where we flopped is 
 very extenfive and populous, and contains a 
 number of fhops of every kind. Its fituation 
 among the mountains gives it a very Unking ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The road appeared to be much frequented, 
 and in the courfe of the day we met with a num- 
 ber of wheel-barrows carrying confiderable loads. 
 Favoured by a ftrong gale they made a very ad- 
 vantageous ufe of their fails, which as I had to- 
 day an opportunity of obferving, fpare the barrow 
 men a great deal of labour. This adjunct is then 
 a thing of real utility. 
 
 26th. Setting off at feven o'clock in the morn- 
 ing we came in three hours after to the town of 
 Kong-cAan-jiu, where we dined at a very good 
 inn. Having ftaid an hour and a half in this 
 place we refumed our journey, and at half paft 
 three reached the fuburb of Tay-ngan-tcheou, 
 where we are to fleep in very indifferent lodg- 
 ings. Military honours were every where paid 
 
 UK 
 
 We travelled to-day between mountains. 
 Sometimes we were in a very level road, at 
 others in a hollow or flony one, that took an eaft 
 
 by 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 1C5 
 
 by fouth direction. We paffed, at fome diftance, 
 from two towns called Kong-chan-chion, and Long- 
 chin-ehen, befides eleven villages and other places 
 of lefs note. 
 
 The mountains were barren and rocky; not 
 the fmalleft verdure was to be feen on them. 
 The level fpace between them is neverthelefs 
 cultivated as much as the nature of the foil will 
 permit. 
 
 We alfo paned over feveral bridges, and faw 
 feveral triumphal arches built of ftone, and like 
 them wearing the appearance of great antiquity*. 
 
 We perceived that the temperature of the air 
 was much milder, and the heat of the fun more 
 powerful. At four in the afternoon Fahren- 
 heit's thermometer flood at fixty one degrees. 
 
 27th. We left our conquan at eight o'clock 
 in the morning, and were conducted along the 
 rampart without the town, which is very large 
 and exceedingly populous. Near the gate on the 
 north fide is a great and very handfome pagoda, 
 which we had the curiofity to vifit yefterday in 
 #ur afternoon's walk. 
 
 At 
 
Io6 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At a quarter paft eleven we arrived, by a very 
 Jevel road, at the town called Chui-ku-chau. We 
 flopped there to dinner. It was the nineteenth 
 place we had patted through or feen in the courfe 
 of the morning. Setting out again at twelve 
 o'clock we had all the afternoon a very uneven 
 road, being obliged to pafs over the fummit of 
 four mountains, one of which was of very great 
 elevation. 
 
 At a quarter paft four we reached the town of 
 Yong-lau-cken, the feventh place that had prefent- 
 ed itfelf to our view this afternoon. This night 
 we put up at a very indifferent conqiian. The town 
 appeared pretty large and tolerably well inhabit- 
 ed on the north fide. We faw a magnificent 
 temple and a convent, both Handing within the 
 fame walls. 
 
 During the day our road has almoft conftantly 
 taken a direction to the fouth-eafr. by eaft, and 
 eaft-fouth-eaft. Several fine profpetls produced 
 by the different pofitions of the mountains which 
 prefent to us a varietv of diftant views, efpe- 
 cially when we come to any riling ground ; the 
 continuation of fair weather and a warmer climate; 
 every thing in fhort concurred to render our jour- 
 ney more agreeable and commodious. We could 
 
 now 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. IC7 
 
 now travel with pleafure as much as a hundred 
 or a hundred and twenty li (ten or twelve leagues) 
 a day. The Mandarins, our conductors, do 
 every thing in their power to oblige us, and till 
 this moment we have not had the fmalleft oc- 
 casion for complaint, which is equally fatisfaclory 
 to them and to us, 
 
 28th, Having a hundred and thirty li to go 
 we fet off this morning at half pail fix. Travel- 
 ing for the firft two hours along a handfome and 
 ftraight road, and afterwards afcending feveral 
 mountains, we came at a quarter paft ten to the 
 fuburbs of Sin-tay-chen^ where we were to dine. 
 
 We proceeded on our journey at half paft 
 eleven, being carried along the ramparts of this 
 little city, which are kept in very good repair. 
 During the afternoon we were conftantly going 
 up and down hill till a quarter paft four, when 
 we palled by the city of y Mong~in-chen, where the 
 road again became level and continued to be fo 
 till half paft five, the time of our arrival at the 
 town of Kiang-cha-fin. We ftaid there all the 
 night, having travelled a hundred and forty li 
 (fourteen leagues). 
 
 The 
 
IDS VOYAGE OF THE DUTClt 
 
 The city of Mong-in-chen is fmall, but It ap- 
 pears clofely built. As the road pafles along a 
 mountain which commands it, we were able to 
 fee into the interior over the walls, which are 
 folidly built and in good repair. In the centre 
 of the town ftands a large building two ftories 
 high, but the reft of the houfes make a very in- 
 different appearance. The fuburb contains as 
 many houfes as the town itfelf, and is full of 
 (hops. 
 
 Shi-iay-chen is alfo a fmall place, and the houfe 
 where we alighted, though the large ft in it, con- 
 tains nothing remarkable. 
 
 In the fpace we travelled over the remainder 
 of the day, there was a great deal of cultivated 
 land, but fewer habitations than we had feen dur- 
 ing the preceding ones. The inhabitants were every 
 where bufied in carrying manure on the ground. 
 
 The great quantity of millet that I faw in the 
 markets in this province and that or Chili, and 
 the general ufe made of it in molt families, as I 
 had occafion to obferve in palling through the 
 villages, make me imagine that this kind ot 
 grain, which does not require ftrong land, is here 
 the general object of cultivation. 
 
 4. i ft. March. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. IO^ 
 
 I ft. March. Some backwardnefs in the pay- 
 ment of the Coulis occafioned a delay of our de- 
 parture till three quarters after eight. The Man- 
 darins were defirous of difcharging them, but 
 we refufed to con fen t to it, as we were very well 
 ferved by them till the prefent moment. 
 
 At a quarter pad twelve we came to Teu~ 
 chang-y, a town of tolerable appearance. After 
 having dined, we fet off again at half pad one 
 on our way to the village of Tfang-ti-tji, where 
 after travelling a hundred //, we are obliged to 
 put up for the night at a very forry inn. Our 
 road lay partly over a plain, and in part over 
 very uneven ground. The laft portion of the 
 road paffed over the fummit of mountains of lefs 
 elevation than thofe of yefterday. We couM 
 however diftinguifh the different chains of them 
 to a very great diftance. 
 
 We faw to-day more habitations than yefterday, 
 and the number of cattle appeared alfo greater. 
 During the laft two or three days I have remarked 
 feveral numerous flocks of fheep, goats, and 
 hogs grazing in the fields. 
 
 Since we have taken the new road along which 
 we are now travelling, I have had an opportu- 
 
 nity 
 
JIO VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 nity of obferving that many women and feveral 
 of the men are afflicted with large tumours in the 
 neck, a thing which we had not feen elfewhere, 
 and which feem to befpeak an endemical difeafe. 
 
 We have been going almoft conftantly towards 
 the fouth-eaft. The weather was very cloudy in 
 the morning and threatened rain; but in the af- 
 ternoon a violent north wind cleared the Iky, 
 and favoured the wifhes of a number of barrow 
 men by fwelljng the fails of their terreftrial boats. 
 
 2d. Our departure this morning took place at 
 halfpaft fix. Our road led us over mountains 
 till nine o'clock, when we found ourfelves at the 
 foot of one of the raoft lofty of them, upon the 
 fummit of which {lands a caitle of confiderablq 
 strength. 
 
 We had before paffed over a ftone bridge, 
 with twenty-four narrow paflages for the water; 
 the (tones of which it is conftrucied being colli 
 necled with iron clanips in like manner as thofe 
 of another bridge which I have already mention- 
 ed. The ftream over which this bridge affords 3, 
 palTage is very fmall, this fcafon being the dryeft 
 of the year. 
 
 A little 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794-^-5. Ill 
 
 A little after ten o'clock we found ourfelves on 
 a level road, the mountains having left us, and 
 about a quarter of an hour afterwards we arrived 
 at the village of Ponn-chan, where we dined and 
 fet off again at half paft eleven. Before three 
 o'clock we reached Sm-chong-chen, where we are 
 to fleep, and where we are very well accommo- 
 dated in a large bpilding in the city. 
 
 Alittle before our arrival at the laft mentioned 
 place, we met with a river of confiderable width. 
 The town which is pretty large is furrounded 
 fry a good rampart. We have travelled to-day 
 ninety //, in a fouth by eaft direction. 
 
 The country grows more populous; for this 
 afternoon I counted from my palanquin twenty 
 four different places. I faw with pleafure in the 
 vicinity of all the habitations a great number of 
 orchards, cultivated as in Europe, 
 
 This evening, the Mandarin who is our fe- 
 cond conductor for the province of Chan-tong, 
 came to take leave of us; becaufe as he finds 
 himfelf approaching the limits of his province, 
 it i^ his intention to return to-morrow. He told 
 us that his companion had come to our lodgings 
 yefterday with the fame intention, and finding 
 2 11s 
 
112 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 -us already gone, had fet off that fame day on 
 his way home. We bade him adieu in the moft 
 affedlionate manner, wifhing him all manner of 
 good fortune and rapid promotion. Born near 
 Hv.ng-chan-chen y in the province of Quang-tong, 
 he entered into the Imperial corps of Ckiouais, and 
 upon leaving them, obtained the employ which 
 he now holds. He appears defirous of permiffion 
 to relign, in order that he may retire to his native 
 place, where his mother refides. 
 
 The political fyftem of the Chinefe requires as 
 a fundamental rule, that no Mandarin fhall ever 
 be inverted with any authority in his native pro- 
 vince. In confequence of this wife principle, 
 every one of them is fent to a diftri6t where he is 
 an entire ftranger, and where he has no kind of 
 connexions whatever, 
 
 We fet off at feven o'clock in the morning. The 
 fouth gate by which we left the city is covered 
 externally by a double baflion of a femi-circular 
 form. We had confequently three gates to pafs 
 before we were entirely without the walls. It is 
 the only gate fortified in this manner that we have 
 hitherto feen ; for even thofe of Pe-king are only 
 defended by a fingle baftion. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. *I3 
 
 At a quarter pad ten we came to Li-ca-chong, 
 where we dined, and left it an hour and a quarter 
 afterwards. At a quarter pad four we arrived 
 at the village of Sau-yijiu, where we put up at a 
 forry inn, after a day's journey of a hundred 
 H. Our road lay chiefly over a plain, in fome 
 parts fandy and full of (tones. It took in 
 general a fouth direction, and carried us through 
 a number of different places. 
 
 Near Li-ca-chong we croffed a river, probably 
 the fame we palled yefterday near Sin-cong-chen. 
 Its rapid ftream, running to the fouth-eaft, is 
 about two hundred and fifty yards wide. In the 
 rainy feafon it muft contain a prodigious body of 
 water, and accordingly an embankment of con- 
 fiderable height has been thrown up on each 
 fide, in order to prevent its inundating the neigh- 
 bouring country. There is a diftance of at lead 
 three thoufand toifes between the two embank- 
 ments. 
 
 I remarked, in one of them, a handfome Hone 
 fluice, which, when the river rifes to a certain 
 height, carries a fertilizing dream into the ad- 
 jacent fields. The pavement and the fides of 
 this fluice confift of large hewn ftones. Its di- 
 rection is ferpentine, and its width about fix feet. 
 
 Vol. II. I It 
 
114 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 It is (hut by pieces of wood, one above another, 
 ]et into a groove cut in the Hones on both fides 
 of the fluice. This finuous fhape proves that the 
 architect perfectly underftood how to weaken 
 the rapidity of a ftream, and was no flranger to 
 the force of a body of water when propelled in 
 a ftraight line. 
 
 In the afternoon we faw at a great diftance to 
 the weftward, an infulated mountain with a 
 cattle on its fummit, while to the eaftward, at a 
 great diftance alfo, was a chain of mountains of 
 little extent. 
 
 All the country we have this day travelled 
 through confifts of arable land, a great part of 
 which having been fown in the autumn, begins 
 already to be covered with a delightful verdure. 
 In other places the hufbandmen were ploughing,, 
 which gave us an opportunity of feeing the 
 Chinefe plough. Though very fimple it is fuffi- 
 eient to turn up the ftrongeft ground. I am 
 refolved to buy one the firft opportunity to carry 
 out of the country with me, it being an excellent 
 inftrument for indifferent land. As to the harrow 
 of the Chinefe it feems to me to be inferior to 
 ours becaufe it has fewer teeth. 
 
 4 th. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. Il£ 
 
 4th. We quitted our inn at three quarters 
 poft fix, and an hour after paffed at a little 
 diftance from the city of Yen-chhi-gen which is a 
 fin all place, and of which the exterior makes a 
 very mean appearance. 
 
 At a quarter paft eleven we came to Kiting" 
 Xfho-fau-y, a village where we flopped and re- 
 frefhed. At twelve o'clock we quitted this laft 
 place of the province of Ckan-tong, and at two U 
 beyond paffed its limits, and entered the pro- 
 vince of Kiang-nam. 
 
 At a quarter pad five we reached the village 
 of Tcheou-mou, where we enjoyed a comfortable 
 night's reft, after a journey of a hundred and 
 twenty li along a road which for the moft part 
 took a fouth by eaft direction. 
 
 The river which I mentioned the two pre- 
 ceding days, and which we again paffed yef- 
 terday evening at the entrance of the village of 
 Sau-y-pu, over a (tone bridge of live arches and 
 Gothic conftru&ion, was running en the eaftern 
 fide of us during the whole of this day. Our 
 road was very fandy, very rugged, and very 
 hilly in the province of Kiting- nam, 
 
 I 2 In 
 
Il6 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 In the morning we met with orchards more 
 extenfive, and confuting of taller trees, than any 
 we had hitherto feen in China. 
 
 At a league to the weftward of Tcheou-mou, and 
 upon the tabular fummit of a hill, {lands a large 
 and noble convent, very agreeably fituated at fome 
 diftance from the road. The edifice and its 
 walls within which are three little groves of 
 cedar and cyprefs, are in good repair. In the 
 afternoon we faw a great many wild geefe and 
 ducks. 
 
 5th. We proceeded on our journey at half after 
 fix, and about five hours after arrived at the 
 village of Sang-hau-cke, where we were to dine. 
 The road was very rugged till we came within 
 a league of the village, when we croffed a river 
 by a bridge of hewn {tone, fix hundred paces long 
 and twenty feet broad, having at leaft feventy 
 openings, intended for the paffage of final I 
 veflels and covered over with flat {tones, which 
 relt limply upon pillars without arches. 
 
 North of the bridge {lands a large imperial 
 pavilion. It is fquare and has a double roof, but 
 it is in fuch bad condition that its walls are in 
 ruin, and its roof fallen in. In the midft of it is 
 
 a ftone 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794-— 5. I I 7 
 
 a ftone bearing an inscription relative to the ar- 
 chitect of the bridge, but the ftone itfelf is in fuch 
 a ruinous Rate that cords have been tied round 
 it to prevent it from falling down. 
 
 Having crofTed the bridge we came to a dike 
 or embankment, fully as handfome as thofe in 
 Holland, and at leaft fifty feet thick at the top. 
 The fide towards the water defcends with a 
 great inclination, like the dikes made in the 
 United Provinces within the laft forty years ; for 
 it feems that it was not obferved till then that 
 the water has lefs action upon a furface much 
 inclined, than upon a plane nearly perpendicular, 
 and that by applying this principle to embank- 
 ments they might almoft always be preferved 
 from accident. The Chinefe, however, were 
 aware of it from the firft formation of their dams, 
 and it appears alfo, that the keeping of them in 
 good repair is here coniidered as a matter of the 
 higheft importance. 
 
 Half way between the bridge and the village 
 of Sang-hau-che (lands, in the plain to the eaft- 
 ward, a large and magnificent convent, with edi- 
 fices refembling temples, the whole furrounded 
 with a wall, which denotes that a great deal of 
 care is taken of it. 
 
 I 3 When 
 
11$ VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 When we had nearly reached our place o£ 
 abode, we found upon the edge of the embank- 
 ment a very lofty pillar, with a cage on the top, 
 containing the head of a criminal executed on 
 the 14th of February, by order of the Emperor, 
 for having committed a robbery and murder in 
 the village. His crime was infcribed upon a 
 board nailed to the pillar. 
 
 Nearly oppofite Sang-hau-cJie, which is fituated 
 in the plain by the fide of the embankment, is 
 the city of Su-tjien-chen, built upon the declivity 
 of a high hill that ftands on the bank of the 
 Hoang-hau, or the Yellow River. 
 
 In confequence of fome delay in the payment 
 of our Couiis, it was two o'clock before we were 
 able to proceed on our journey. Our road lay 
 through cultivated plains, thickly interfperfedwith 
 great and fmall villages and hamlets. We alfo 
 faw near the road to the eaftward a very hand- 
 fome pagoda, confiding of ten diftinct buildings, 
 all in excellent repair. At half paft five we 
 came to the village of In-kau che, where we are 
 to pafs the night in a very comfortable houfe. 
 
 This place, which is pretty large, ftands near 
 the Yellow River, by the fide of which we tra- 
 velled 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. II9 
 
 veiled all the afternoon in a fouth-eaft direction, 
 as I was enabled to perceive by the number of 
 veflels that were failing up and down. We 
 went this day a hundred and ten //. 
 
 Within thefe few days paft I have met with 
 larger barrows than I ever faw before, and which, 
 by the load they carried, might rather have been 
 taken for carts. I obferved that the load occu- 
 pied a fpace {even feet long by five feet wide. 
 The wheel is at leaft four feet in diameter, and 
 the barrow is drawn by an afs. Two barrow- 
 men accompany it, one before to guide the 
 animal, the other behind to keep the barrow in 
 equilibrium. Some of them are tilted over (but 
 with mats) like our carts, in order to lhelter the 
 paffengers. 
 
 This evening our fecond conductor came to 
 fettle the plan of to-morrow's journey. We 
 determined to go ninety //", and confequently 
 fhall have only thirty to travel the following day 
 to Von-ca-fen, which will give us time to get on 
 board our veflels the fame day. 
 
 6th. We fet off this morning at feven o'clock, 
 
 in the midft of a thick fog, which was not dif- 
 
 pelled till noon. Half an hour before it cleared 
 
 I 4 away 
 
120 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 away we jeached Tfong-hing-fye, where we dined. 
 We left it at one o'clock in order to get to the vil- 
 lage, where, according to our plan, we were topafs 
 the night, but the accommodations it afforded be- 
 ing very bad, the Ambaffadorfufferedhimfelf to be 
 perfuaded by the fervantsof the Mandarins to go 
 as far as Fon-ca-fen, We therefore proceeded on our 
 journey at five o'clock. The wind blowing very 
 itrong, and the weather being exceedingly thick, 
 our journey w r as very difagreeable. We were, 
 however, fully indemnified, when, at a quarter 
 paft eight we found ourfelves in very good and 
 fpacious lodgings, although in a fmall town. 
 
 Our day's journey was a hundred and twenty 
 //', our road running almoft always to the eaft- 
 ward, and in the direction of the Yellow River. 
 Upon the embankment by the fide of it we 
 went, at two different times, a confiderable dif- 
 tance. The top of it is {till wider than that of the 
 dike on which we were travelling yefterday, and 
 is every where kept in the molt perfect order. 
 
 The Yellow River is the greateft of all thofe 
 of the Empire of China, and its inundations are 
 the moft formidable on account of the impetuo- 
 fity of the (tream. Double embankments have 
 therefore been thrown up on each fide in order 
 i to 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 121 
 
 to prevent its ravages. The inner one is calcu- 
 lated for the ordinary rife of the water, and the 
 outer one is meant to ferve on extraordinary 
 occafions. The fuperintendance of thefe dams 
 is entrufted to the care of three Tfong-tous,-between 
 whom the whole extent is divided ; each of 
 them being bound to relide in a city adjacent to 
 the portion fubmitted to his infpeclion. In con- 
 fequence of their holding this office they take 
 the title of Hatt-cong Tfong-tou, which anfwers 
 to that of Intendant of Dikes in Holland. 
 
 7th. The weather yyas feverely cold. The 
 wind, which had increafed a good deal during 
 the night, was followed by heavy rain, and in the 
 morning we had a great deal of thunder and 
 lightning. At noon the wind lliifted to the 
 north-weft and the cold augmented. A hard 
 lhovver of hail was fuperadded to the other me- 
 teorological phenomena, and was followed by 
 large flakes of fnow which fell for a full hour. 
 
 In the afternoon the weather cleared up, but 
 it continued to freeze during the whole of the 
 night. We were therefore obliged to flop all 
 day at Fon-ca-fen, for it would have been impof- 
 lible to crofs the river. Fortunately after having 
 patted it, we (ball have only four H to travel, in 
 order to reach our Yeflels. 
 
 8th. 
 
122 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 8th. The weather was fine and clear, but ac- 
 companied by a hard froft. The river, however, 
 not being frozen, our baggage was conveyed 
 acrofs it in boats, and put on board the vcffels. 
 At eight o'clock in the morning Fahrenheit's 
 thermometer ftood at twenty-nine degrees, the 
 wind being very fharp and piercing. At nine 
 o'clock we pafied the river and arrived at ten at 
 the town of Sin-can-Jiu, where we found our 
 vefTels waiting for us, and immediately embarked. 
 
 They were very large yachts, divided into fe- 
 veral fpacious apartments, wherein we round 
 ourfelves both comfortably and agreeably fituated. 
 The Ambaffador and I had each our yacht, and 
 two others were afligned to the five gentlemen in 
 the fuite of the EmbafTy. 
 
 Our baggage being tardily conveyed on board, it 
 was four o'clock before we were able to get away. 
 
 Sin canfiu is a tolerably large place, fituated 
 on the banks of a river, and full of handfome 
 {hops, which befpeak a commercial place. It is 
 : [fo very populous. 
 
 When every thing was embarked we fet off 
 with a fair wind, which ailifted the effect of the 
 ftream in carrying us down the river. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. I23 
 
 At fix o'clock we patted the city of TJing-ho-* 
 c/iefty a very extenfive place, where there is an 
 Imperial cuftom-houfe, and where a Hon-Jiou is 
 refident. A bridge of boats is laid acrofs the 
 river, having a cable at one end, by means of 
 which it is fuffered to fvving round with the 
 ftream when a paflage is wanted for veflels, and 
 is afterwards brought back from the bank, to 
 which the current has drifted it, to the oppofite 
 fhore, where it is again made faft by the cable. 
 At the bridge the river is narrower than the 
 Amftel, but is more frequented both by great 
 and fmall veffels. It has on each lide a folid 
 dike, and from one end of the city to the other 
 its banks are entirely faced with hewn ftone. 
 
 At half pad feven we were already oppofite 
 the town of Houay-ngan-fou, where we flopped in 
 order that our failors might be paid, and pro- 
 vifions be put on board for to-morrow. All the 
 cities that lie in our route are bound to contri- 
 bute their quota of thefe provifions. 
 
 It was eleven o'clock before we were able to 
 fet off. The city of Houay-nran-fou appears very 
 large and populous ; there is more than one 
 breach in its walls which are in a very ruinous 
 ftate, and the public buildings that we had an 
 
 opportunity 
 
1^4 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 opportunity of feeing, feem not to be in much 
 better condition. 
 
 On the weftern bank of the river, where there 
 was a prodigious number of veffels, and fronting 
 the city, is a large Imperial building with a iione 
 monument {landing under it. This edifice, 
 which is now mouldering into ruins, muft for- 
 merly have been very magnificent. It appears 
 that the Chinefe fet little value upon their anti- 
 quities. The old things that do honour to their 
 talents are in a manner al andoned to the des- 
 tructive hand of time withoul their (hewing any 
 anxiety at their decay, Along the road we met 
 with hundreds of thofe (tones, intended to pre- 
 ferve the remembrance of particular events in a 
 ftate which proves the total neglect to which 
 they are condemned, and the injuries they have 
 fuffered from the inclemency of the air. 
 
 In the northern part of the city, and within 
 the ramparts, flands a kind of octagonal tower, 
 the five ftories of which do not amount to an 
 elevation of fixty feet, although the dimeniions 
 of its bafe are in proportion to double that height. 
 
 While we were flopping at Houay-ngmi-fotty a 
 great number of Imperial veffels paffed by loaded 
 
 with 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 5. 12^ 
 
 ivith rice for Peking. Thefe veffels, which are 
 of confiderable fize, have two mads ; one placed 
 very far forward, and the other two-thirds of 
 their length from the ftern. Their lofty prow 
 ftands up almoit vertically, and their bottom is 
 flat, which gives them a fquare form, and renders 
 them fit to carry confiderable burdens. 
 
 The canal was to-day of the fame width as 
 yefterday, ftill running between two dikes or 
 caufeways, which in fome places were entirely 
 bordered with rulhes, in order to give more 
 ftrength to the dam, and to oppofe the- action of 
 the water, which has a tendency to undermine 
 the ground ; an invention much refembling that 
 of Varech in Holland. 
 
 This evening at nine o'clock we arrived off 
 the city of Pauin-chen, where we flopped in order 
 that our people might enjoy a night's reft, of 
 which they are much in need, our veffels being 
 now pulled on by the tracking-line. At fun-rife 
 we fet otf again. 
 
 10th. I could diftinguiih very little of the 
 city of Pauin-chen, which is, as I was told, very 
 large, but deftitute of commerce. To-day, as 
 well as yefterday, the direction of the canal was 
 
 to 
 
126 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 to the fouth, while villages were fcattered herd 
 and there along its banks. 
 
 In the morning we got fight of a confiderable 
 lake, at no great diftance to the weftward. It is 
 fo large in fome places that w r e could hardly 
 perceive its weftern more. It was covered with 
 a great number of large two-mafted riming boats, 
 lying two and two together in order to haul the 
 net at the fame time, as is practifed at Macao 
 and along the coaft. The lake is feparated from 
 the canal upon which we are navigating by a 
 fmgle dike that is not fifty feet broad, although 
 the water of the canal is at leaft eight feet above 
 the level of the lake. Along the edge of the 
 latter the embankment is faced with a wall, 
 made in part of hewn (lone and partly of brick. 
 Some repairs were going on there at the time we 
 paffed by. On the canal fide the dike is alfo 
 ftrengthened, in the way I have already men- 
 tioned, by reeds fluck into it in rows, the inter- 
 vals between which are filled with ftrata of argil- 
 laceous earth, laid one over the other almoft to the 
 very top of the embankment; the whole being af- 
 terwards covered with a coat ot clay a foot thick. 
 
 The furface of the country on the eaft fide of 
 the canal is at leaft ten feet lower than that of 
 
 the 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794—^. 12' 
 
 the water. It is excellent arable land, and fo. 
 the moil: part fit for the cultivation of rice. A 
 great number of villages and hamlets prefent 
 themfelves every moment to the eye, and afford 
 a very pleafing profpedl. In the eaftern embank- 
 ment, flood-gates have been placed v/herever ne- 
 ceffary. They are of hewn ftone, and exactly 
 fimilar to thofe which I mentioned on«frhe third 
 of this month. We faw feveral of this kind, 
 both yefterday and to-day. At half pail -eleven 
 we came abreaft of the village of Fan-tfany-fan, 
 where we were obliged to ftop, becaufe the-Man- 
 darins had not furnifhed fufficient proviiions for 
 the fervants and the crews, or rather becaufe, ac- 
 cording to cuflom, the domeftics of the Mandarins 
 had fpeculated upon our allowance, and appro- 
 priated a part of it to their own ufe. The beft 
 way of correcting them is the one we took, by 
 flopping, and giving them to underftand that we 
 were determined not to be their dupes. A fup- 
 plement of provisions was immediately furnifhed 
 us, and we again got under way. 
 
 We navigated the whole of the day along the 
 fide of the lake, the ftream being in our favour, 
 but as the wind was contrary, and it blew 
 frcfh, our progrefs was very flow. The cold 
 
 obliged 
 
125 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 obliged us to make life of braziers to warm our 
 apartments. 
 
 The manner of fteering thefe verTels is veiy 
 lingular, but well fuited to the nature of the 
 palTage they have to make. Six or eight men 
 track them on, while four others walk along the 
 dike, carrying two light wooden anchors, the 
 cables of which are fattened to ftrong ftancheons 
 placed upon the decks. At the word given by 
 the pilot, thefe anchors are dropped upon the 
 ground, in order that the Item or ftern of the 
 veiTel may be drawn towards the dike, accord- 
 ing to the direction that it is wifhect fhe lliould 
 take in her courfe, and thus to prevent her from 
 being brought by the wind or the current with 
 her broadfide to the ftream. 
 
 Their ropes of rattan, or, more properly 
 fpeaking, of bamboo, are very ferviceable, be- 
 caufe they unite lightnefs and irrength. Other 
 cordage would be wanting in the firil, and even 
 in the fecond quality, when neceflary to keep 
 the veffel in the ftrength of the ftream. The 
 ftancheons to which thefe ropes are made fait, are 
 the heavieft pieces of wood in the veiTel, vvhofe 
 whole depth they penetrate. There is one on 
 each fide, both forward and aft. 
 
 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— 5. I2Q 
 
 The maft is compofed of two pieces, which 
 are united at their head, but which, being fe- 
 parated below from each other, are fixed in iron 
 collars upon the two fides of the velfel, fo that 
 it may be brought down lengthwife upon the 
 deck. There is at the fame time at the foot of 
 the maft another piece of wood, alfo compofed 
 of two bits likewife joined at their upper end, 
 where they form a crutch, upon which is placed 
 a tackle for fwaying up or lowering down the 
 maft ; an operation by thefe means rendered ex- 
 tremely eafy. 
 
 The rope by which the veflel is tracked is- 
 made of the bark of bamboo : it is not thicker 
 than the little finger, and yet it is very ftrong, as 
 well as very light. Of every production that grows 
 in the vaft extent of the Empire of China, there is 
 undoubtedly none whofe utility furpaftes that of 
 bamboo, which is employed on every oceafion, 
 even as an article of food. Scarcely any thing is 
 to be found in China, either upon land or water, 
 in the compofition of which bamboo does not 
 enter, or to the utility of which it does not con- 
 duce. From the moft valuable articles which 
 ferve to adorn the apartments of the Prince, 
 down to the fmalleft tool handled by the meaneft 
 mechanic, bamboo is fure to find a place. Houfes 
 are entirely conftru£ted of it, as well as all the 
 
 Vol. II. K furniture 
 
1^0 VOYAGE Of THE DtfTCET. 
 
 furniture they contain. In navigation, it is bamboo* 
 which furnifhes every thing from the line that' 
 ferves to track the fmalleft fkiff, to the cable,- 
 that conftitutes the fecurity of the largeft veffel. 
 
 This tree, which is propagated with aftonifh- 
 ing abundance, and grows with remarkable ra- 
 pidity when planted in a favourable foil, deferves' 
 to be confidered as one of the greateft benefits- 
 that nature has conferred on the territory of 
 China : the Chinefe accordingly fhew their gra- 
 titude bv bringing it more and more into ufe, 
 I doubt whether the vegetable kingdom in any 
 part of the world affords a fubftance of fuch 
 general utility as the bamboo, the qualities of 
 which place it far above my panygerie. 
 
 We ftoprjed a part of the night, in order to 
 give reft to our failors. 
 
 Setting off at day-break, we pafted, in the- 
 courfe of the morning, one of the extremities of 
 the lake. A high wind which rofe in the after- 
 noon compelled us to flop. 
 
 The country, like that which we had feen dur" 
 ing the preceding day, is entirely covered with 
 hamlets and villages, and is in a high Hate of cul- 
 tivation , 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 13! 
 
 tivation. The wind having fallen, we got under - 
 Way again at midnight. 
 
 This morning at two o'clock we patted the 
 city of Kau-yon-tcheou, which we were prevented 
 from feeing by the darknefs of the night. At 
 fun-rife we came to Van-tfu, a tolerably large 
 place ; 'and at half paft feven reached the fuburbs 
 of Yang-tcheou-feu, and flopped mid-way before. 
 we came to the city, in the interval between the 
 fuburbs and the convent of Pe-ning-fau-tfi. 
 
 I took this opportunity of going to fee the 
 convent. The Chief Prieft ; • x of the bonzes 
 came out to pay me their refpects, and conducted 
 me through the middle door to the firft temple. 
 At my entrance about twenty bonzes ranged in 
 two lines chanted a hymn. As I found mj felf 
 near the altar, on which was the Eirperoi ajJ, 
 I performed before it the ceremony of ad< on, 
 I went afterwards to fee the fecond and third 
 buildings of the temple, and was afterwards 
 (hewn a ftone, with an infcription written in the 
 prefent Emperor's own hand, and placed under 
 a canopy in a feparate compartment. I vilited 
 all the reft of the convent, which ferves as a ha- 
 bitation for at leaft fixty bonzes. 
 
 K 2 When 
 
1^1 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 When I had feen every thing, the Chief Prieft 
 conduced me to the refectory, where he defired 
 me to fit down at table and partake of fome fruit 
 and tea. I accepted his invitation, and ftaid 
 there a quarter of an hour. The name of this 
 prieft is Bonay-key : he is fifty-five years old, but 
 his appearance indicates a more advanced time 
 of life. I thanked him on taking leave for the 
 gracious reception he had given me, and made 
 him a prefent for the convent. He attended me 
 to the outfide of the gate. 
 
 The Gods of thefe pagodas are, i. Quang~ty; 
 2. Oyhait-ho ; 3. Coun-yam ; 4. Tjont-nay ; and, 5. 
 Mant-Ju. On both fides of the firft ftory are the 
 four ufual figures of the guardians of temples, 
 known by the name of Ci-tay-tyem-cong. On the 
 fecond are alfo feen, on the two fides, eighteen 
 images of ancient gods, called Sapatlohong. Thefe 
 eighteen idols, and the five firft mentioned, are 
 all richly gilt, and half as large again as life. 
 
 Without the walls of the convent, by the fide 
 of the river, is a magnificent triumphal arch of 
 wood, with three palTages, and with pedeftals 
 of white marble, fome of which were over- 
 turned by the inundation of laft year. It appears 
 
 as 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794. — 5. 133 
 
 as if they meant to leave them in their prefent 
 ftate. 
 
 Almoft oppofite, on the weft fide of the river, 
 ftands an Imperial monument under an hexagonal 
 dome, which muft formerly have been a hand- 
 fome edifice, but which is now beginning to 
 moulder away. 
 
 Half an hour before we reached the fuburbs of 
 Yang-tcheou-fou, we alfo faw two other Imperial 
 Edifices, containing monuments. One is a pavilion 
 with a triple roof, and the other an open hexagon- 
 al dome, fupported by columns. Both of them are 
 beginning to decay, which is a truly afflicting 
 fight, confidering the noble appearance they ftill 
 make. 
 
 At one o'clock we fet off again, and for forty- 
 five minutes continued to pafs along the walls of 
 Yang-tcheou-fou. It appeared a very large place. 
 Hundreds of mips, yachts, and boats lined the 
 lhore, and the crowd of people affembled on the 
 two banks was innumerable. 
 
 At fome diftance below the city we paffed an 
 
 a&agonal tower of feven flories, which were 
 
 K 3 wot 
 
134 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 not feparated from one another by any balcony 
 or proje&ion. 
 
 The Hou-pou of Canton, by whom his Excel- 
 lency was complimented on board the Siam, 
 having at prefent the chief fuperintendance of 
 the Imperial magazines of fait of Yang-tcheoufou, 
 the Ambaffador and I difpatched our Interpreter 
 to pay our compliments to him. He was fo 
 pleafed with this, that in his turn he fent us 
 one of the firft Mandarins of his fuite, commif- 
 fioned to prefent his bell wifhes for our happi- 
 nefs, to offer us a confiderable prefent of fheep 
 and other provifions, and to exprefs his regret at 
 his not being able to wait on us in perfon, and 
 wifh us a good journey to Canton. 
 
 We there learnt that the Naa-fan-tayen, our 
 conducting Mandarin at Pe-king, has obtained 
 an eminent poft, and that he has fet off for his 
 refidence. He is called TJick-tfau-fou j that is to 
 fay, Chief Director of the Manufacture of Raw Silk 
 in the Provinces of Tche-kiang and Kiang-nam, re- 
 fiding at Hang-tcheoufou. He confequently will 
 not come as Hou-pou to Canton, his prefent place 
 being fuperior to that employ. 
 
 In 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. I35 
 
 In our way down the canal we faw feveral 
 more pagodas, convents, and other public build- 
 ings belonging to the city of Yang-tcheoa-fou. 
 
 At half paft four we perceived to the well of 
 us a magnificent temple dedicated to Qtiang-ty^ 
 with a convent by the fide of it. Thefe edifices 
 are covered with green tiles, and kept in excellent 
 repair. 
 
 A little beyond, at a place where the river 
 divides into two branches, we came to a noble 
 Imperial palace, furrounded by feveral lodges for 
 the princes, and an octagonal tower, having on 
 its top a great bar or rod of bronze, furrounded 
 by circles or hoops, and terminating in a large 
 ball of copper, the whole richly gilt. From the 
 upper part of the rod, chains are brought down 
 to the eight points of the roof, correfponding 
 with the eight angles of the tower, to which 
 eight little bells are attached, Thefe ornaments 
 produce a moil beautiful effe£l. The tower is of 
 the fame fize at top as at bottom, its walls being 
 exactly vertical. 
 
 By the fide of this tower, is a temple ftanding 
 
 under the (hade of old and tufted trees. Other trees 
 
 planted round the whole of the building, add to 
 
 the beauty of the fcene. — The tower being 
 
 K 4 fituated 
 
136 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 fituated oppofite the canal, is feen from a very 
 great diftance 
 
 The principal entrance to this place is through 
 three magnificent triumphal arches of (tone, one 
 of which ftands in the front, and the other two 
 on the fides of a great fore-court. 
 
 Every thing in this place announces the care 
 taken of it by the bonzes, to whofe truft it has 
 been committed by the Emperor. The name of 
 this fummer palace, which is about fifteen hun-? 
 dred toifes in circuit, is Caii-ming-tfi. It is plea- 
 fantly fituated between two canals, and fronting 
 a third, and is faid to be eleven hundred and 
 fixty years old, having been built in. the reign of 
 the Emperor Yong-cong. 
 
 At about five hundred yards from the princi- 
 pal entrance, and clofe to the water fide, is a 
 noble flight of flairs leading to the river ; and op- 
 pofite thefe flairs is an hexagonal dome fupported 
 by fix pillars, in the midft of which is a ftone 
 bearing a long infcription. 
 
 Oppofite to the building, and eaft of the 
 canal, ftands a convent, occupied by a number 
 of bonzes. 
 
 This 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. I37 
 
 This evening at feven o'clock we flopped 
 at thirty li beyond the place I have juft de- 
 fcribed, oppofite another fummer palace called 
 Ong-unn, which our conductors offered to fliew 
 us. We mean to-morrow to avail ourfelves of 
 their kindnefs ; for this evening it is too late. 
 
 Among the crowds of curious fpe£tators who 
 flared at us to-day with eager eyes, the females 
 were not the leaft numerous. We remarked a 
 great difference between their demeanour and 
 that of the women of Chang-tong. The female 
 fex is here infinitely fairer, and of a more ruddy 
 complexion. In the courfe of the day we 
 remarked many pretty women, and particu- 
 larly admired the family of a great Mandarin, 
 which paired by us in three large yachts. The 
 charming women they contained flood at the 
 windows in fuch a way as to fee and be feen 
 equally well. Three or four of them were per- 
 fect beauties. We may then fafely fay that we 
 are flill more unfortunate than Tantalus, fince 
 to his torments our inflamed imagination added, 
 in a delufive dream, the punifhment of the au- 
 dacious Ixion. 
 
 13th. We went on fhore at an early hour in the 
 morning to viiit the country houfe which I men- 
 tioned 
 
1$$ VOYAGE OF IHE DUTCH 
 
 tioned yefterday. The Emperor not having in- 
 habited it for thefe twelve years paft, it is much 
 neglected ; but if his Majefty were to teftify the 
 imalleft defire to return to it, a fortnight would 
 fufHce to put every thing in order. > 
 
 Even in its prefent ftate, this place is rendered 
 worthy of attention by the variety of its edifices, 
 by the diverfity of the ground interfperfed with 
 rocks, by its pavilions, its lakes, its bridges, &c. 
 Every thing is difpofed according to a fyftem in 
 which art feems to hide herfelf in the midft of 
 the irregularities of nature ; while the ftudied 
 confufion of trees, fruit, flowers, and brambles 
 compofe a fcene that feems due to chance alone. 
 Already the birds enlivened the groves by their 
 fongs, and enriched the verdure with their plu- 
 mage. Voluptuous fummer, when thou haft 
 fpread thy charms over the country, what fu- 
 preme delight rauft be tatted in this enchanting 
 place. 
 
 No, it is not poflible to give a faithful defcrip- 
 tion of a Chinefe villa. Every thing is inter- 
 mingled, and feems on the point ot being con- 
 founded ; but the triumph of genius is to prevent 
 the fmalleftdiforder that might hurt the eye. Every 
 inftant a new combination affords a new variety, 
 o fo 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 139 
 
 fo much the more agreeable and linking, as it 
 has been the lefs poffible to forefee it ; the fpecla- 
 tor's furprife being constantly kept up, becaufe 
 every moment produces a new fcene. Perhaps 
 plans and drawings might give an exact idea of their 
 compofition ; but what plan can (hew the order of 
 that which is only perfect becaufe deftitute of all 
 order ? What drawing can produce the effect 
 of things which feem fo difcordant ; and how is 
 it poflible to introduce into it that life which the 
 different objects borrow from one another ? — 
 Our charming walk laited an hour and a half. 
 
 From the dike we had an opportunity of feeing 
 the adjacent country. The high lands, which are 
 almolt on a level with the embankment, are co- 
 vered with a light tinge of green, already pro- 
 duced by the corn with which the fields have 
 been fown, while the low lands are preparing 
 for the late harveft of rice. The foil appears 
 rich and fertile. 
 
 The great number of villages, hamlets, and 
 habitations, have the double effect of enriching 
 the landfcape, and of bringing to the mind 
 the idea of profperity and abundance. It 
 was alfo eafy to perceive from the crowd of 
 people who flocked to fee us, that the inhabitants 
 
 are 
 
I40 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 are flrangers to poverty. We were now, indeed, 
 travelling through therichefl parts of the Empire, 
 while in our way to Pe-king we only croffed the 
 lead important diftricts of Chang-tong and Tche-li. 
 Kiang-nam, Tche-kiang, and Fo-king> are the three 
 principal provinces of China, beeaufe they pro- 
 duce raw filk, the ftuff called nankin, and the 
 different kinds of tea. When we fhall have feen 
 the two former, we may flatter ourfelves with 
 having had a fight of every thing that is the 
 moft worthy of attention in China. 
 
 As I have mentioned thefe provinces, I cannot 
 refrain from communicating to my reader the 
 following obfervations, which they fuggeft. 
 
 W T hite raw filk is principally a produ6tion of 
 the north of Tche-kiang, though erroneoufly de- 
 fignated by the name of Nam-king. The fouth 
 parts only of Kiang-nam produce a fmall quantity. 
 
 The fluff called Nam-king, which is manufac- 
 tured at a great diftance from the place of that 
 name, in the diflri£l of Fong-kiang-fou, fituated in 
 the fouth-eaft of the province of Kiang-nam, and 
 upon the fea-ihore, is made of a brown kind of 
 cotton, which it fecms can only be grown in 
 that quarter. The colour, of Nam-king is then 
 
 natural, 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. I+* 
 
 natural, and not fubjeft to fade. As the greater 
 part of the inhabitants of Europe and other 
 countries are in the perfuafion that the colour of 
 the fluff in queition is given it by a dye, I am 
 happy to have it in my power to rectify their 
 error. 
 
 The opinion that I combat was the caufe of 
 an order being fent from Europe a few years 
 ago to dye the pieces of Nam-king of a deeper 
 colour, becaufe of late they were grown paler. 
 The true reafon of that change is not known : it 
 was as follows : 
 
 Shortly after the Americans began to trade with 
 China, the demand encreafed to nearly double 
 the quantity it was pofhble to furnifli. To fupply 
 this deficiency, the manufacturers mixed common 
 white cotton with the brown; this gave it a 
 pale caft, which was immediately remarked, 
 and for this lighter kind no purchafer could 
 be found, till the other was exhaufted. 
 
 As the confumption is grown lefs during the 
 laft three years, the mixture of cotton is no 
 longer neceffary ; and Nam-king is become what 
 it was before. By keeping them two or three 
 
 years. 
 
142. Voyage of the dutch 
 
 years, it even appears that they have the pro- 
 perty of growing darker. This kind of fluff muft 
 be acknowledged to be the flrongefl yet known. 
 Many perfons have found that clothes made of it 
 will lafl three or four years, although for ever 
 in the wafh. This it is that makes them the 
 favourite wear for breeches and waiftcoats both 
 in Europe and America. The white Nam-king 
 is of the fame quality, and is made of white 
 cotton as good as the brown, and which alfo 
 grows in Kiang-nam. 
 
 Befides the above-mentioned fluffs, a great 
 number of others are made in China, either of 
 cotton, or different kinds of flax : among others, 
 an irnmtenfe quantity of callico, made of the 
 cotton of Surat and Bengal, of which the Englifh 
 bring hither annually from forty to feventy thou- 
 fand bales, which are almofl entirely employed 
 by the province of Quang-tong. Hence we may 
 conceive what an enormous quantity of different 
 kinds of fluff is manufactured and confumed in 
 this Empire. 
 
 We have been obliged to flop to-day, becaufe 
 that part of the canal to which we are going on 
 the other fide of the Ktang, is blocked up by an 
 
 immenfo 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA fN I794 — £. I43 
 
 : immenfe number of ImDerial boats laden with 
 rice. We rauft then wait till a great part of 
 them arrive here, and leave us room to pafs. 
 
 In the afternoon we have feen more than fifty 
 pafs, for the moft part fo large, that they were 
 capable of carrying more than three hundred 
 thoufand weight of rice, although, to my great 
 aftonilhmcnt, they do not contain even a third 
 of that quantity. From TJor.g-tchou, fifty li 
 from Peking, the rice is carried over land to the 
 capital. 
 
 The canal on which we now are, and in which 
 we have been navigating eV er fince we left the 
 city of Hcuay-ngan-fou, is cut through a fpace of 
 more than a thoufand //, in order to abridge the 
 route of thefe veffels, although they only make 
 one voyage per year. I have been allured that 
 the Emperor has nine thoufand nine hundred and 
 ninety-nine veffels of this kind, from forty-five to 
 a hundred feet long, and from twenty-two to 
 twenty-five feet wide. Their crew's, upon an 
 average, corJift of twenty men each. The cap- 
 tains and pilots live on board with their wives 
 and families, as is the cafe on board the veffels 
 of Cologne, in our own country. I remarked 
 feveral very pretty women among them, and 
 
 others 
 
144 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 others who carried their attention to their pef- 
 fons fo far as to wear paint. 
 
 In thefe veflels, which are flat and fquare, the 
 load is put at the bottom, and the upper part is 
 laid out in cabins for the crew. A deck runs 
 from one end to the other, and in the fides are 
 ports or windows to give light to the apartments. 
 The captain has the ftern of the vefifel for his ac- 
 comodation, and over him the pilot has his cabin. 
 All the fore part is allotted to the failors. It is 
 natural to fuppofe that all thefe people lead a 
 very eafy life, being in the fervice and in the pay 
 of the Emperor, and always at home, without 
 any dread of encountering hard fatigue. 
 
 It is impoflible to refrain from obferving that 
 economy is here of no account in the con- 
 veyance of rice. In other countries thefe veflels 
 would be more heavily laden ; or elfe, if that in- 
 creafe of burthen would prevent their palling 
 every where, on account of the fhallownefs of the 
 water, fmaller veflels would be built, which might 
 be navigated by fewer men; and two voyages 
 might be made annually inftead ot one. 
 
 It is evident that the Emperor requires two 
 hundred thoufand men for the conveyance of 
 i rice;. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5. I45 
 
 rice ; and thefe men, as well as- their' families, 
 are kept at the expence of the ftate. The quan- 
 tity of rice fent annually to Pe-king, is more than 
 feven hundred and fifty millions of pounds 
 (French); a quantity truly aftonifhing. • It is 
 with this rice that the greater part of thofe who 
 ferve in the army are paid, as well as thofe who 
 are attached to the court. The whole of the 
 above enormous quantity does not exceed what 
 is wanted for that purpofe. 
 
 The greater part of the inhabitants of Chart' 
 long, TcAeli, • and the more weftern provinces, do 
 not make ufe of rice for their nourifhment, which 
 is co'mpofed of millet, and other productions of 
 the earth, fuch as peas, &c. 
 
 All the provinces in which rice is cultivated 
 are bound to deliver their contingent, or agri- 
 cultural tithe, in the vicinity of Kiang-nam, where 
 it is fhipped on board of the Imperial veffels. 
 The province of Quang-tong is the only one ex- 
 empt from this tribute, probably on account of 
 the great number of troops it maintains, to whom 
 rice is furnifhed for their fubfiftence. 
 
 It is in Kiang-nam, and principally in the dif- 
 
 tri6t of Sou-tcheou-fou, that all the veffels deftined 
 
 VeL.II. L for 
 
146 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH" 
 
 for the conveyance of rice are built. Many of 
 them are prettily painted, and ornamented with 
 carve-work, and gilding. They have large fails 
 hoifted upon their two raafts. 
 
 In the afternoon a vefTel patted us having ten- 
 Coreanson board in their way to Pe-king, whence 
 they will be fent into their own country. They 
 were fhipwrecked in a ftorm upon the coaft of 
 China. I was liftening to a relation of that event, 
 when the Coreans landed upon the dike. I 
 went upon deck to fee them, and was much fur- 
 prifed to find that as foon as they faw me, 
 they ftretched out their hands, as if they knew 
 me ; ran to a fmall boat, and came along- 
 side of my yacht ; but we were utterly unable 
 to underftand one another. They then appeared 
 to difcover their miftake, and were ftill more hurt 
 when one of our Mandarins ordered them to re- 
 tire, and to proceed on their journey. I pre- 
 fume that fome of them had feen, or known 
 fome of the Dutch at Japan, whither the Co- 
 reans make a voyage every year, and that they 
 took me for one of their old acquaintance. 
 
 This evening a ftrong north wind has fprung 
 up, a»d the weather is very cloudy. 
 
 1 14th* The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 5. I47 
 
 14th. The rice-veflels hindered us again to- 
 day from continuing our journey. 
 
 15th. We fet off at the break of day; but 
 with the intention of not going farther than to 
 one li on this fide of the Kiang, which is here ex- 
 ceedingly wide. We are to pafs it ; but its fur- 
 face being much agitated by a frefh breeze from 
 the north-weft, we are prevented from doing fo, 
 and muft wait a more favourable moment. A 
 heavy rain at the fame time prevents us from 
 going afliore to take a walk. 
 
 Having this morning feen a pretty large veffel 
 j*o by, laden with the bones of animals, I was de- 
 firous of knowing for what purpofe they were 
 intended ; and was told that they are to be burnt, 
 and that the cinders are to be put upon the 
 ground fown with rice, when the plant is about a 
 foot high, and before the water is let into the 
 fields. It is affirmed that this practice renders the 
 land very fertile, which indeed cannot be doubted, 
 fince bones contain a great deal of the faline and 
 oily principles. It is well known, befides, that 
 all kinds of allies make excellent manure. 
 
 I "have feen lime fpread in the fame manner, 
 upon the land that grows rice between Canton 
 
 L 1 and 
 
I48 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 and Macao ; but it is when the plant is two feet 
 high, and after the grounds have been inundated. 
 
 1 6th. A gentle rain has continued to fall all 
 this day. The rice veflels ftill obftructing our 
 paflage, we mall flay another day here. It is 
 very lucky, while 'thus detained, that we are fo 
 
 well lodged. 
 
 •» 
 
 I obferved in the Iaft eighty or a hundred ti 
 that We have travelled, that we frequently met 
 with- great heaps of reeds piled up along the 
 dike. This led me t© afk if that flexible Ihrub 
 grew hereabout ; and I was told that immenfe 
 quantities fhoot up in the neighbourhood of lakes 
 and morafies at no great diftance to the weftward. 
 Hence it feems that nature has taken care to 
 place the reed in places where it is wanted to 
 confolidate the dikes. 
 
 1 7th. At the break of day we fet off in order 
 to quit the canal, and enter the Kiang, in point of 
 extent the fecond river in the Empire, and at 
 that place very wide. It ran down very flowly 
 at the time we entered it, no doubt becaufe its 
 ttream was checked by the flood-tide. The 
 banks of the river were level, and thickly planted 
 with trees j but at fome diftance to the fouth, 
 
 and 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5. I49 
 
 And fouth-weft we faw a great many mountains, 
 which ftretched away to the eaftward, and ap- 
 proached the river in that direction. 
 
 Shortly after our departure, we paffed the city 
 of Qaa-tcheou, fituated to the northward. It is 
 furrounded with very extenfive walls, which in 
 feveral places, however, fhew marks of decay. 
 The embankment ftands exactly between the 
 city and the river. 
 
 Haifa league beyond, we coafted along a very 
 lofty ifland, compofed of rocks, and fituated near 
 the fourhern bank. The weft fide of it comes 
 Hoping down, but the oppofite one is almoft per- 
 pendicular. This ifland, called Kiang-tfang-tfi, 
 was chofen by one of the Emperors for a country 
 retirement ; and feveral edifices were accordingly 
 ere&ed upon it, which when feen from the weft- 
 ward, afford a very agreeable profpe£t, and have 
 all the appearance of a fmall town. All the 
 buildings on that fide ftand on the declivity of the 
 rock, and in a manner upon one another. They 
 are conftrucled of brick ; and the roofs are of 
 green and yellow varnifhed tiles. Some of them 
 are, however, covered with the common red 
 kind. 
 
 We 
 
I50 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 We perceived, on the fummit of the rock 
 feveral domes, and to the north, a handfome 
 tower in good repair, and fimilar to that of Can- 
 ming-tfi. There are buildings wherever its de- 
 clivity permits any to ftand ; and as it is perpen- 
 dicular on the eaft fide, the handfome buildings 
 that front that way, which are the principal Im- 
 perial edifices, are conftrucied upon a level fpot 
 at the foot of the rock. The landing-place 
 being to the north, a flight of broad (tone fteps 
 has been placed there, coming down clofe to the 
 water-fide. A baluftrade, alfo of ftone, intended 
 to prevent accidents, extends along the fide of 
 the road, which itfelf runs round the whole of 
 the ifland, and paffes over vaulted channels, that 
 ferve to carry off the rain. In other places, 
 where breaches in the rock interrupted the road, 
 the chafms have been filled up with mafonry, in 
 order to render it level and commodious. Laftly, 
 to give (till more fecurity to paflengers, another 
 baluftrade borders the top of the rock, to the 
 eaftward, in the part where the deep defcent 
 begins. Several magnificent buildings (land upon 
 •the fummit. 
 
 On the eaftern fide, the river has waihed up 
 earth, and formed the flat beach which I have 
 mentioned above, and on which gardens have 
 
 beea 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 5. 151 
 
 been made, planted with fhrubs and flowers. 
 Their pleafing appearance enlivens the magni- 
 ficent profpe£t afforded by the edifices in front 
 of which they are fituated. The ifland appears 
 very populous, and the outfide of the buildings 
 befpeaks the hand of care. 
 
 Upon the upper part of the rock arc a great 
 many foreft trees, ftanding between the buildings 
 and overlooking the roofs. The whole compo- 
 fition gives this place the appearance of one of 
 thofe landfcapes in which the painter has af- 
 fembled all the objects molt, pleafing to the eye. 
 I fketched two drawings of it, one reprefenting 
 the eaflern part, the other the weftern, with the 
 intention of having them finifhed by the painter I 
 employ at Canton. 
 
 About three // farther eaftward than this ifland 
 begin the fuburbs of Ching-kiang-fou, built among 
 rocks by the water-fide. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the road, upon the 
 fummit of a mountain, ftand a temple and a con- 
 vent, which muft afford a pleafing view when 
 feen from the ifland of Kiang-tfang-Ji. 
 
 L 4 While 
 
l$l VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 While abreaft of thefe fuburbs, we entered 
 into a canal, which is about two hundred toifes 
 long, and which is feparated from the river by a 
 lofty and handfome embankment bordered with 
 reeds, and communicating with the ditch dug 
 round the city. In this place the paflage being 
 only the width of two veflels, we were obliged to 
 haul in our yacht by means of the capftan, be- 
 tween the fide of the canal and the rice veflels 
 which lined the oppofite bank. Having gone 
 fome diftance along this canal, we pafled through 
 a flu ice of hewn ftone of dimenfions fcarcely ex- 
 ceeding the breadth of a rice veffel. 
 
 It would feem that in China they have no idea 
 of flood-gates ; for all thofe I have feen are clofed 
 by. planks, in the way I have already mentioned. 
 Thefe planks are difpofed like the beams in front 
 of the flukes in Holland. 
 
 We waited in this canal or fluice for the rife 
 of the tide, which detained us till half pail two 
 in the afternoon. We then proceeded on our 
 journey, being tracked by a dozen, men along the 
 fide of this narrow canal, which was conftantly 
 blocked up by the rice-carriers. After having 
 travelled for fome time in this manner, we arrived 
 
 at 
 
IMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 5. I53 
 
 at the north-weft baftion of the city, where feveral 
 flags were flying upon the baftion ; while a great 
 number of foldiers ftood in the embrafures found- 
 ing conchs in the place of trumpets. This was 
 the firft time that I had ever heard a Chinefe blow 
 one of thefe fhells. It is well known that they 
 are ufed as a warlike inftrument in the illands of 
 the South Sea. 
 
 On the outfide of the baftion is a very lofty 
 bridge of hewn ftone, of a Angle femicircular 
 arch. I was aftonilhed at the bad repair of this 
 bridge, confidering its conftant utility, and the 
 crowds of people that pafs over it. 
 
 We continued for a great while longer to fol- 
 low the ramparts of the city, which muft confe- 
 quently be a place of great extent. It is inha- 
 bited both by Tartars and Chinefe. When we 
 came to the fouth-weft end of it, we again, 
 found flags, foldiers, and conchs upon the baftion. 
 Beyond it is a bridge fimilar to that at the north- 
 weft end of the town, and quite as much neg- 
 lected. Shortly after we patfed through a fluice 
 of the fame kind as that which we had met with 
 
 in the morning. 
 
 At 
 
J54 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At the end of the fouthern fuburbs are two 
 triumphal arches of ftone, while upon a hill at a 
 little diftance ftands an hexagonal tower in very 
 good condition. It is feven ftories high, has a 
 long fpire upon the top of it, and is plainly dif- 
 tinguiihable from the canal. 
 
 A little way beyond the latter ftands a large 
 convent, with a temple, a great variety of other 
 buildings, and a flight of Hairs of hewn ftone, 
 leading from it down to the water-fide. The 
 whole appeared to be kept in excellent order. 
 
 On the outfide of the city the ground grew un- 
 even, and a little beyond it the mountains began 
 to make their appearance. 
 
 In paffing along the canal I obferved a number 
 of Chinefe in fmall boats employed in deepening 
 it, by means of an iron machine, about a foot 
 long. It confifts of two fpoons or ladles, fitting 
 clofe to each other, and opening and fhutting by 
 means of two long handles of bamboo, like a 
 pair of tongs. With this machine they bring upr 
 the mud or clay from the bottom, and when the 
 boat contains two barrow fulls, its load is thrown 
 out upon the fhore. Economy does not feem to 
 be at all confulted in this operation. 
 
 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 155 
 
 The number of fpe&ators of both fexes who 
 crowded to fee us go by was inconceivable. It 
 was night before we had pafled all the rice 
 barges, and feven o'clock before we flopped to 
 take our repaft ; after which we continued our 
 journey during the whole of the night. 
 
 1 8th. At three o'clock in the morning we 
 reached a village extending a great diftance upon 
 the top of the dike and alongfide of the canal 
 as far as a lofty bridge of (tones, under which we 
 pafled. At half paft feven we came to the city 
 of Tang-yang-chen, where we were detained two 
 hours, while changing trackers and taking pro- 
 vilions on board. 
 
 Setting off again at half paft nine, we ranged 
 round three fides of the city, keeping clofe to 
 the ramparts, and pafled under three lofty (lone 
 bridges which (land near three gates of the city, 
 and of which the arches defcribe a femicircle. 
 
 The fpace inclofed within the walls is con- 
 fiderable ; but it is to be prefumed that the whole 
 furface is not built upon. The fuburbs made 
 no appearance, nor was there any thing remark* 
 able, unlefs the great number of inhabitants. 
 
 During 
 
*>$6 VOYAGE OK THE DUTCH 
 
 During the morning we pafled by feveral 
 fluices of hewn ftone cut through the dike, and 
 all in fuch a ruinous condition as to be unfer- 
 viceable. I was much furprifed to fee things of 
 fo great importance in fuch diforder, while the 
 ffones which had been detached by the action of 
 the water, would fuffice to repair them. This 
 neglect is no doubt attributable to the Man- 
 darins, who appropriate the money that ought to 
 be employed in repairs to their own ufe. 
 
 At the end of the fouth-weft fuburbs, ?.nd in a 
 place named Chele is a fuperb convent, temple, 
 and other edifices equally magnificent. A little 
 beyond is a lofty ftone bridge, after which we 
 came to another convent called Hauy-hau-tji, a 
 ft ill larger and more beautiful building than the 
 laft ; and near the temple, which is confecrated 
 to the God ghianpy, is a noble octagonal tower 
 of feven ftories, and of the fame conftruction as 
 that of Cau-ming-tji. This tower (landing near 
 the canal I was the better able to diftinguifh its 
 point and fpire. 
 
 I then perceived that it was made of fome fort 
 of caft metal. The Chinefe afmred me that it is 
 a particular kind of very pure and very valuable 
 iron ; but that the ball at the end is of copper. 
 
 The 
 
SMSASST TO CHINA IN 1 7 94 — 5. 357 
 
 The iron rod, as well as I could judge, is tweiifrf 
 feet long, and is confequently of no inconfiderable 
 weight. It is fixed in a bafe or conical focket, 
 alfo very long, which immediately above the roof 
 contracts to a fize little more than equal to that 
 of the rod itfelf, to which it ferves as a fupport, 
 and to the length and weight of which it is 
 adapted. Round the rod and one above another, 
 are placed feven hoops or rings, the middle one 
 of which is the largeft, while the others decreafc 
 in diameter, in proportion as they are removed 
 from it towards the extremities. All the feven 
 are confined by crofs pieces of iron proceeding 
 from the rod. Over all thefe hoops, and almofl 
 at the end of the rod, is a plate in the form of a 
 ftar, from each of the eight points of which hangs 
 a little bell and a chain that defcends to each 
 of the eight angles of the roof. Below thefe 
 angles larger bells are fufpended, befides fome 
 that hang to the middle of each chain. Finally, 
 the rod is terminated by a large ball of metal 
 gilt. This manner of ornamenting the top of 
 towers renders them very confpicuous, and gives 
 them a moft magnificent appearance. 
 
 This convent has a feparate building belonging 
 
 to it, (landing by its fide, and formerly inhabited- 
 
 by a Chriftian, a native of the eaft, named Kiam* 
 
 4 Iwz- 
 
icfi VOYAGE OF THE DITTC1F 
 
 long-citay-ouangy whofe family came originally 
 from Tai-kiamcok, and who was canonifcd by the 
 Chinefe after his death. His image is worshipped 
 here, as well as in feveral pagodas. 
 
 This convent and tower are fituated fronting 
 the canal. They are feen from a great diftance, 
 and even from the city of Tang-yang-chen, pre- 
 fenting a very noble object to the eye. The canal 
 defcribes a femicircle round thefe buildings ; 
 and when oppofite the fouth-fide of them re- 
 fumes a ftraight direction, by means of which 
 the traveller continues to enjoy a view of the 
 tower for a long time. 
 
 At this part of the canal we met with a re- 
 petition of the obftru&ions occafioned by the rice 
 mips bound to Pe-kmg, which blocked up one 
 half of the channel. 
 
 The road being now clear of the crowds that 
 had followed our yacht from the city, I landed, 
 in order to take a walk upon the embankment 
 by the fide of the canal, and to get a view of the 
 neighbouring country. The profpedt is de- 
 lightful on all fides, and the appearance of the 
 country is that of a well-cultivated garden, being 
 every where fiat, and fown with corn, which be- 
 gins 
 

 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 £. I59 
 
 gins already to mew itfelf above the furface. 
 The level of the land is at lead ten feet above the 
 furface of the canal, and interfered by large 
 canals and ditches full of water. The ground, 
 which is of an argillacious nature, appears very 
 fertile and of eafy cultivation. The corn here 
 has a thick ftalk, and large and numerous leaves, 
 which are a fufficient proof of the goodnefs of 
 the foil. 
 
 I obferved that in fome fields, and in particular 
 fpots, the corn was fown in little furrows eroding 
 each other at right angles ; in others the feed 
 was fet in a right line by means of a drill (femoir) j 
 and Iaftly, there were fome places, but a very ftw t 
 which appeared to have been fown by the hand, 
 as with us, and in general in narrow beds, with 
 little paths between them, as in the kitchen- 
 gardens of Holland. All thefe diverfified plan- 
 tations cheer the eye, and the whole is as free 
 from weeds as our pleafure-gardens. 
 
 As far as the eye could reach the whole 
 country was crowded with farms and habi- 
 tations ; and figns of abundance and profperity 
 were every where vifible. The houfes were all 
 built of bricks and covered with tilts. There 
 feemed however to be a fcarcity of cattle $ for 
 
 durinar 
 
l60 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 during my walk, which lafted an hour and a half, 
 I only faw a fingle cow. 
 
 It is eafily perceivable here that the canal is 
 the work of art, not only becaufe it runs in a 
 ftraight line, but alfo becaufe its banks have 
 been raifed by the earth taken out of it till they 
 are at lead twenty feet above the level of the 
 water. The top of thefe embankments is barely 
 of the width neceflary for a path. Towards the 
 fields the dope is fown with corn almoft all the 
 way up.] 
 
 The peafantry here are a good looking race, 
 and are very well clad. 
 
 To the eaftward the diflant view is bounded 
 by mountains fituated towards the fea coaft, all 
 the reft is a plain as far as the north-weft, where 
 the hilly country that furrounds N/im-king con- 
 tracts the horizon. 
 
 In no part of the world does the traveller meet 
 with profpecls fimilar to thofe which every part 
 of this country affords. 
 
 In the afternoon we faw feveral brick-kilns 
 placed along the top of the embankment. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. l6l 
 
 At half paft three we were abreaft of Li* 
 fang, a pretty large place, which, owing to the 
 number of its (hops, and the good condition of 
 its houfes, made a very pleafmg appearance. 
 There we palled firft through a ftone fluice, with 
 two openings, feparated in the middle by a very 
 ftrong mound of hewn {tone, and afterwards 
 under a Hone bridge of great elevation, and the 
 bed of all thofe we had met with for two days 
 paft. 
 
 Not far from Li-fang is a fmall pagoda, kept 
 in very good repair. We flopped at fix o'clock 
 to take our repaft, and continued our voyage 
 afterwards during the whole of the night. 
 
 19th. At three o'clock in the morning we 
 came to the city of Chang-tckeou-fou, and it was 
 fix before we reached tlte extremity of the 
 fuburbs. This may ferve to give fome idea of 
 the length of the town. The cold was fo fevere 
 during the laft night that the fields, trees, every- 
 thing in fhort was covered with a white froft. 
 
 South of the city the canal increafed to double 
 its former width. The earth produced by its ex- 
 cavation, and in general thrown upon its banks> 
 has in this part been carried away, probably in 
 Vol II. M order 
 
1.62 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 order to be employed for fome particular pur- 
 pofe, or perhaps, as it is of an argillaceous- 
 nature, it may have been made into bricks for 
 fome public buildings. 
 
 The banks are here higher than the adja- 
 cent country, nor did we fee fo many farms as 
 yefterday ; but villages and hamlets of good ap- 
 pearance, with houfes built of ftone and covered 
 with tiles are more frequent. At feven o'clock 
 I counted thirty-one villages or other places 
 within the circle taken in by my eye, and feveral 
 of the number were of confiderable magnitude. 
 
 The fields in this part of our route lay lower 
 than thofe we faw yefterday. The water of the 
 ditches and trenches has a free communication 
 with the principal canal by means of feveral na- 
 vigable canals which branch oft on either fide. 
 
 At eight o'clock we paffed by Tchi-tfi-yetiy 
 which occupies both fides of the canal, and 
 which has all the appearance of a little city. 
 Two ditches dug to the eaftward and weftward 
 communicate here with the canal, and over each 
 of them is a lofty ftone bridge in very good con- 
 dition, while a third bridge ftands acrofs the 
 canal itfelf, with a pafiage, but no arch. The 
 
 facing 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — y 163 
 
 facing of the piers is of hewn (tones, placed 
 perpendicularly one upon another, to the height 
 of about twenty feet, with planks laid over 
 them. 
 
 The direction of the canal made by human 
 labour from the city of Tchun-con-fou is nearly in 
 a right line from fouth-eaft to north-weft, except 
 near the city of Tang-yang-chen, where it makes 
 a deflexion, becaufe no doubt that city exifted 
 before the digging of the canal, and a fmall 
 ftream or natural river rendered an artificial 
 channel an unneceflary work. 
 
 It is evident that this canal was not cut till 
 after the epoch when the imperial refidence was 
 removed from Nam-king (which fignifles the 
 South Palace) to Pe-king (the North Palace), and 
 when it was certain that the Emperor had aban- 
 doned his former abode. It is, then, to be pre- 
 fumed that the canal was dug four hundred years 
 back, fince Pe-king became the capital of the 
 Chinefe Empire four hundred and twenty-five 
 years ago. 
 
 As the country is flourilhing, the temples are 
 
 numerous, and kept in better order than in the 
 
 arid regions of the weft through which we pafled 
 
 M 2 before. 
 
164 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 before. The number of bonzes fettled here 
 proves that they are under no apprehenfions as 
 to a fubfiftenee. 
 
 At a quarter paft nine we paffed by the village 
 of Quon-li-tchan, ftanding on the opposite fides of 
 the canal. It is a moderately large place, and very 
 populous, as was proved incontrovertibly by the 
 crowds of curious fpeclators- with which both 
 banks were lined. Tchi-tji yen and Quon-li-tchan 
 contain triumphal arches of ftone, the rude 
 workmanfhip of which befpeaks their antiquity. 
 In the firft of thefe places there is one, and two 
 in the village, including that which {lands within 
 the walls of an old pagoda, no doubt in honour 
 of the faint who is wormipped there. 
 
 In the morning we paffed by a convent and a 
 temple, dedicated to the goddefs Coun-yam, with 
 buildings belonging to them, kept in very good 
 repair. In a fmaller temple, ftanding by the fide 
 of the former, is the ftatue of the Chriftian faint 
 Kiam-lang-citdy-onang) whom I mentioned yef- 
 terday. As we were going by I got a fight of 
 (he ftatue, which is coloffal and entirely gilt. 
 
 Half an hour afterwards we came to Loo-fa* 
 trfien, a very large place Ikirting both fides of trie 
 
 canal. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. I 65 
 
 canal. At no great diftance from it is a great 
 pagoda, dedicated to Sam-coun-thong*, and two 
 ancient triumphal arches of Hone. 
 
 This morning we faw a chain of mountains at 
 a great diftance to the north-eaft. My telefcope 
 enabled me to diftinguifti two caftles buijt on 
 two of the higheft parts of the ridge. 
 
 At three in the afternoon we had an infulated 
 mountain, called Y-tchun-chan, ftanding to the 
 weftward of us at the diftance of four or five //. 
 Upon its fummit are two pagodas, which, not- 
 withstanding their immenfe height at which they 
 ftand, and the difficulty of approach, appeared to 
 me, when I examined them with my telefcope, 
 to be kept in very good repair. The foot of the 
 mountain, which forms a declivity of ten or twelve 
 it long, is covered with hundreds of houfes, ftand- 
 ing detached from one another, and all coated with 
 plafter, the whitenefs of which, contrafting with 
 the green of the mountain, gives them a very 
 ftriking appearance. In a hollow in the moun- 
 tain itfelf ftands a habitation entirely overlha* 
 dowed with trees, another marks the middle of 
 the afcent, and between that and the fummit a 
 third feems to indicate three-fourths of the total 
 elevation. All thefe fituations appear agreeable. 
 M 3 South- 
 
l66 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 South-eaft of this mountain is another much 
 lower, having on its fummit a convent and a 
 temple ; and by the fide of them an oclagonal 
 temple, conftru&ed like that of Caii-ming-tji, ex- 
 cept that inftead of the metal fpire and its or- 
 naments it has nothing on the top of it but a 
 large ball. This convent is called Houay-tchuu, 
 At fome diftance beyond, and between thefe 
 two mountains is a handfome country-houfe, 
 known for a thoufand years Hy the name of 
 Ngok-Ji-fau-uun-tJi, which was th at of its original 
 owner, a Mandarin of very high rank, whofe 
 virtue and unfhaken fidelity could not fave him 
 from decapitation. Accufed before the Em- 
 peror Long-can-tfong, he was condemned to 
 death. The calumny being fhortly after difco^ 
 vered, the body of the unfortunate Minifter of 
 State was interred by order of the fame Emperor 
 with all imaginable pomp, and a magnificent 
 monument was erected over his grave. The 
 monarch gave him befides the title of Saint, and 
 conferred honours upon his fon, at the fame time 
 that his perfidious accufers were punifbed with 
 death. This magnificent tomb is in th6 province 
 of Tche-kiang, near the city of Hang-tcheou-fou, 
 where we fhall probably have an opportunity of 
 feeing it. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 167 
 
 At four o'clock we reached the fuburbs of 
 Von-fi-chen, in the neighbourhood of which we 
 faw at leaft a dozen pagodas. Five of them are 
 clofe to the town, and are at the fame time very 
 near to one another. One of them ftands upon 
 a little ifland fituated in the middle of the canal, 
 which here grows wider, and even appears to be 
 a branch of a river. In the fuburbs is a convent 
 of nuns or female bonzes, as alfo a large and 
 very beautiful triumphal arch Handing between 
 two houfes in a court or little empty fpace. 
 
 It is impoffible to conceive the number of 
 people that crouded to get a fight of us, fome on 
 more and others in little boats, by which we 
 were entirely furrounded. 
 
 The fuburbs are interfered by feveral ditches. 
 
 The houfes of which they are compofed are fo 
 
 many (hops, filled for the moft part with pottery 
 
 of all kinds and qualities, fuch as urns, vafes, 
 
 pots, tiles, &c. It appears that thefe articles are 
 
 manufactured in the environs. There is alfo a 
 
 brick-ground and a place intended for the repair 
 
 of veffels. At half pail four we came to the 
 
 gate of the city, and made a flop there, that being 
 
 the place where our failors were to be paid. 
 
 M 4 According 
 
 
 
l68 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 According to the information I was able to 
 obtain, the city of Vou-fi-chen is a large place, 
 well built, neat, and full of inhabitants. Of this 
 laft circumftance we were well affured by the 
 multitude that furrounded us-. 
 
 At feven o'clock, every thing being arranged, 
 our tracking line was ftretched anew, and towed 
 us on without intermiflion during the reft of the 
 night. 
 
 Before it grew dark I obferved to the fouth of 
 the city a very noble and lofty tower, alfo re- 
 fembljng that of Cau.-ming-tft . 
 
 At eight o'clock the matters of our veflels had 
 orders to ftop till to-morrow morning. Our 
 fir ft conductor is gone to Sou tc/teou-fon, in order 
 to arrange things for our reception with the go- 
 vernor of that city, where an Imperial entertain- 
 ment is to be given us, and where it is intended 
 to ihew us the curiofities of the place. It is 
 probable that we (hall arrive there to-morrow. 
 
 3Qth. At break of day the tracking line 
 again put the yacht in motion, and we continued 
 our courfe along the canal, which ftill keeps a 
 fouth-eaft direction . Jn general the country is 
 
 more 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 169 
 
 more uneven than yefterday, owing to a number 
 of hills and mounts, indicating graves. The vil- 
 lages are lefs numerous, but there are more 
 
 o 
 
 fmall cuts and ditches communicating with the 
 great canal. Trees were in fuch abundance as 
 often to conceal diftant objects from our fight. 
 
 At nine o'clock we came to the town of 
 Mong-ting, a pretty large place. Two hours and 
 a half afterwards we came to Sou~tcheoa-huye-quan % 
 a vaft and populous place, where there is a ferry, 
 and a Hou-fiaus hotel, Handing in the middle of 
 the town upon the bank of the canal, and pro- 
 ducing a very good effect. 
 
 Having pafTed this place we perceived, at a 
 little diftance to the weftward, a chain of moun- 
 tains, which feemed to run in the fame direction 
 as tlie canal beyond the city of Sou-tcheoii-fou. 
 
 In the morning feveral convents and temples, 
 the two handfomeft of which ftand exactly at the 
 extremity of Sou-tcheou~huye-quan y engaged our at- 
 tention. I perceived fome edifices by the fide of 
 a very lofty tower, on the top of a mountain 
 called Ling-on-chan, at a great diftance to the 
 fouth-eaft, and was affared that they made part 
 of a fummer palace built there by one of the Em* 
 
 perors 
 
I70 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 perors while the Imperial refidence was (till iri 
 this province. 
 
 To the fouth-eafr. alfo, and likewife at a dis- 
 tance, ftand a tower and a convent upon a moun- 
 tain called Chang on-chan. 
 
 Eight // beyond Sou-tcheon-kuye-quan, another 
 narrow canal branches off from that on which we 
 are travelling to the weftward, and is only fepa- 
 rated from it by a quay about fix feet wide, 
 which had formerly a facing of hewn ftone on 
 each fide, and which is now in very bad condi- 
 tion in feveral parts, without any attention ap- 
 pearing to be paid to it. 
 
 Nobody was able to tell me what was the 
 motive for building this quay, the conftru&ion 
 of which muft have coil a great deal of money, 
 and which appears to me perfectly ufelefs, fince 
 itone bridges have been erected at convenient dif- 
 tances to facilitate the communication between 
 the two canals.. As to myfelf I was utterly 
 unable to conjecture with what view fuch a work 
 could have been undertaken. 
 
 At half part: twelve we paffed by the graves of 
 
 two perfons of diftinelion. Near the tombs, and 
 
 1 by 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. I 7I 
 
 by the fide of the path that leads to them, are 
 placed live pair of ftatues fimilar to thofe which 
 I have already mentioned ; that is to fay, two 
 lions fitting, two rams lying down, then two 
 horfes, two elephants, and two Mandarins land- 
 ing. Tombs are very numerous in this place, 
 and for the moft part (land under fmall clumps 
 of cedar and cyprefs. 
 
 At one o'clock we left, at a certain diftance 
 from us to the eaftward, Sou-tcheou-hou-yau-chan, 
 built upon a hill. In the centre of it is a hand- 
 fome octagonal tower, feven ftories high, an idea 
 of which may be formed from that of Cau~ming- 
 tji. Buildings placed one above another give 
 to this fpot fo ftriking a refemblance to the 
 weft fide of the little ifland of Kiang-tchang-tji, 
 which I mentioned on the 17th of this month, 
 that a description of one may ferve for the other; 
 for here alfo the charming environs prefent a 
 moft delightful piclure to the eye. 
 
 At two o'clock we landed at Sou-tcheou-cau- 
 pan-kioiiy a pretty large and very populous place. 
 So many aqueducts and canals are here feen, 
 that it may be faid to ftand in the midft of the 
 water ; that of the principal ditches wafhing the 
 
 foundations 
 
S-Jl VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 foundations of the houfcs, which are all of hewn 
 ftone. 
 
 We there paffed under three capital bridge* 
 built of ffone. Yefterday and to-day we met 
 with thirty others of fimilar conftru£iion, which 
 we either left on one fide of us, or through 
 which we patted. 
 
 Scu-tcheow-cau-fian-kioH contains feveral temples 
 and convents in good condition, as well as three 
 triumphal arches of irone. It was pa ft three 
 o'clock before we reached the further end of the 
 town. An immenfe multitude of both fexes was 
 affembled all along our road, and the houfes 
 were filled from top to bottom with people 
 crowding on one another to get a fight of us, 
 which procured us in our turn the pleafure of 
 feeing the pretty faces of feveral belles. Moft of 
 them were painted, which appears here to be fo 
 prevalent a cuftom, that it even obtains among 
 children of three or four years old. The white 
 in particular is fo glaring, that it is no exagge- 
 ration to fay that a face covered with it may 
 be diftinguifhed at the diftance of a hundred 
 yards. A complexion of this kind is fo unlike 
 that of nature, that it feems more calculated to 
 difguft than to pleafe. 
 
 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 17$ 
 
 The rouge ufed in China is in general better 
 than that of Europe. A woman vvhofe fkin is 
 tolerably fair and fmooth, and who is not in 
 the habit of laying on white, might with this 
 rouge imitate the frefh colour of youth, without 
 its being poffible for the action of heat or cold to 
 difcover the artifice, even to the moft penetrating 
 eye ; nor w r ould the habitual ufe of it in this 
 moderate way have any bad effect upon the Ikin. 
 It is in this manner that all cofmetics ought to 
 be ufed, in order that thefe fecret arts, intended 
 to make women appear more agreeable and faf- 
 cinating in the eyes of their admirers, may not 
 be- betrayed by a ridiculous affeclation ; and 
 that this practice may not deftroy the advantages 
 of a fmooth and foft fkin. We might then 
 confent to forgive the fair an artifice which 
 would be no longer pernicious, and which would 
 find its excufe in the defire of increafing the 
 paiTion of a lover, or of moving the indifferent 
 heart. 
 
 At four o'clock we paffed by the village of 
 Houang-toH-fangy where there are two ftone 
 bridges, one of them being of three arches and 
 having a pavilion in the middle, intended, no 
 doubt, to enable the traveller to reft himfelf, and 
 £he inhabitant of the town to enjoy the frefh air, 
 4 In 
 
174 voyage of the dutch 
 
 In this village a trade is carried on in brown 
 earthen veffels, which are feen piled up in the 
 form of very lofty pyramids in the front of the 
 fliops. 
 
 We were obliged to turn off on one fide in 
 order to go from Sou-tcheoa-cau-jiau-foou to the 
 village of Houang-tcn-fang y becaufe the ufual canal 
 from this firft place till within a fhort diftance of 
 the city of Sou-tcheou-fou, is entirely obilructed by 
 rice veffels. 
 
 At five o'clock we reached the entrance of the 
 fuburbs of Sou-h/ieou-fou, wTiere we paffed under 
 a bridge of three arches, of a conftruction equally 
 noble and elegant. It would be impoffible to 
 build a handfomer, even of marble. Each pier 
 Hands upon a mafhve fquare of a fingle ftone, 
 fomewhat longer than the breadth of the bridge, 
 which appeared to me to be eighteen feet in the 
 clear, and on both fides of which is a handfome 
 ftone baluftrade. The admirable workmanfhip 
 of this bridge gives it a very agreeable appear- 
 ance. The piers of the middle arch are not 
 more than two feet and a half thick at the 
 bottom ; and in every refpect it would do honour 
 to the molt able architect in Europe. A quarter 
 of an hour afterwards we came to another ftone* 
 
 bridge, 
 
EMEASSY.TO CHINA IN I 794. 5. 1/5 
 
 bridge fimilar to the former, but of only a fingle 
 arch. Oppofite was the place appointed for our 
 veilels to ftop before a large quay, upon which, 
 before our arrival, a ftrong guard of foldiers was 
 already ported. Their tents were pitched along 
 the quay, in order to prevent the curiofity of the 
 people from being troublefome to us. This pre- 
 caution, indeed, was very neceflary, as without 
 it our veflels would have been funk by the weight 
 of thofe that would have crowded on board. 
 
 Soon after our arrival our firft conductor fent 
 the Lingua to the AmbafTador and me, to inform 
 us that to-morrow morning at ten o'clock the 
 ceremonial would take place in the city, and 
 that palanquins would be fent for our con- 
 veyance. We were confequently requefted to 
 hold aurfelves in readinefs, as well as the gen- 
 tlemen in the fuite of the Embafly who are to 
 accompany us. 
 
 2 1 ft. At nine o'clock in the morning the 
 Mandarins came to us to beg us to make our 
 entry into the city. We repaired there accord- 
 ingly in our palanquins, as well as the gentlemen 
 in our fuite. We were carried bv four CouJt's, 
 and they by only two. 
 
 We 
 
Jj5 VOYAGE OF THE CutCk 
 
 We pafled through feveral ftreets well paved, but 
 narrow, and fullof fhopsof little confequence. Curi- 
 ofity had every where afTembled prodigious crowds, 
 and if care had not been taken to plant centinels 
 at the top of the crofs ftreets, we mofl afluredly 
 mould not have reached the place of our dedi- 
 cation. We were defired to alight at a houfe 
 near the place they were pleafed to call the Im- 
 perial court. About a quarter of an hour after- 
 wards a meiTenger was fent to conduct us to that 
 edifice, before which the troops were drawn up 
 in a line. We were immediately conducted 
 to the hall containing his Imperial Majefty's 
 cha/ty oppofite which we performed the ufual 
 ceremony of proftration. We then paid our re-, 
 fpecls to the On-tcha-fju and governor of the 
 toWn. (The Fouyuen^ who generally refides 
 here, is abfent.) They told us that the Emperor 
 had been very well fatisfied with our Embaffyv 
 and found us perfons of fo much fincerity, that 
 he had given orders to prepare an entertainment 
 for us, to make us prefents, and to treat us with 
 all poihble refpect; orders with which they were 
 very happy to comply. 
 
 The Mandarins then begged us to feat ourfelves 
 upon cuftiions to fee a play aSed, which was 
 immediatelv ordered to begin* Scarcely had we 
 
 fel 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 5. I77 
 
 let down, when a little table was fet before each 
 of us, covered with fruits and delicacies of all 
 forts. Thefe were afterwards removed to make 
 room for dimes of hot meat, drefled in the 
 Chinefe manner, which we did not touch, be- 
 caufe our cooks were preparing us a repaft. 
 
 The actors were dreffed as magnificently as 
 any we had feen, and played extempore, merely 
 to amufe us, and without any fettled plan. It 
 was paft twelve when we role in order to take 
 our dinner in another apartment. The On-tcha- 
 Ju had retired, but the Governor came and joined 
 us. His Excellency begged him, through the 
 medium of our Interpreter, to favour us with a 
 fight of the public buildings, and whatever other 
 curiofijies the city might contain. He anfwered 
 that there was little worth feeing, but that he 
 would comply with our requefi as foon as we 
 ihould have dined. It is a cuftom among" the 
 Chinefe, as well as the other nations of the Eafr, 
 to depreciate every thing belonging to thern- 
 felves, and to fpeak of it as fomething very com- 
 mon, at the fame time that they lavilh undeferved 
 praife upon all that is fhewn them by foreigners. 
 We had heard fo much faid of ' Son-tcheou-fou, which 
 is a place of great celebrity, that we confidered the 
 Governor's anfvver as mere words of courfe, and 
 
 Vol. II. N during 
 
IJ& VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 during the whole of our repaft were taken up 
 with nothing but the idea of the interesting 
 things we were about to fee. Our dinner being 
 over, we feated ourfelves again in our palan- 
 quins. 
 
 After having paffed through feveral ftreets of 
 the city, we were carried a great way off to a 
 fmall convent and a pagoda, with a garden 
 belonging to it, in which a mount has been 
 thrown up, in imitation of a rock. The temple 
 dedicated to the goddefs Coun-yam was little de- 
 ferring of our attention, and all the reft was not 
 worth the trouble of looking at. Half an hour 
 was more than fufficient to examine this beautiful 
 edifice. We were afterwards requeued to take 
 tea ; but we thanked the bonzes for their oblig- 
 ing offer, telling them that it was our intention 
 to vifit fome other curiofities. 
 
 It was then propofed to (hew us another 
 temple ; but the Ambaffador, hearing that it 
 was inferior to the former, refufed to go. The 
 Mandarins, who were our conductors, appeared 
 embarraffed, as if they did not know whither to 
 conduct us. I had fome things written down in a 
 lift, which I fubmitted to their infpe&ion ; but 
 they found an objection to every one of them : 
 
 fome- 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. I79 
 
 ibmetimes it was the dillance, fometimes the 
 diforder the place was at prefent in, and fome- 
 times the badnefs of the road. Thus, every 
 thing confidered, we had nothing better to do 
 than to return to our yachts, without having ob- 
 tained any gratification of our curiofity ; and this 
 was what we refolved to do. 
 
 The height of the artificial mount of which I 
 have fpoken, having enabled me to overlook, a 
 great part of the city, I obferved feveral fpots or 
 cultivated ground in the north-eafl quarter. 
 The circumference of this city is eilimated at 
 thirty-fix // ; and it is faid to be very populous. 
 According to the report of the Chinefe, it is 
 very commercial ; contains a great number of 
 manufactories ; and is the refidence of many 
 opulent merchants. We were not able to afcer- 
 tain the truth of this information, any more than 
 that of the very popular opinion, which repre- 
 fents this city as the principal feat of fenfuality 
 in China. It is afferted that the fair fex is here 
 more beautiful than in any other part of the 
 Chinefe dominions ; and that the women of 
 Sou-tcheoa-fou have in that refpect obtained for 
 their native city a reputation which no other can 
 difpute. 
 
 N 2 Every 
 
l80 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 : Every one alfo fpeaks of Son-tcheou-fou, Hong^ 
 tcheoi(-fou> and Quang tcheou-fou, as three of the 
 principal cities in China, and remarkable for the , 
 extent of their commerce and the advantageous 
 trade they carry on. 
 
 There are two towers at Sou-uheou-fou ; one at 
 the north, the other at the fouth end. They are 
 both alike, and in form and contraction refen> 
 ble that of Cau-ming-tfi, of which the reader has 
 faeen fo often reminded. 
 
 The fuburbs are pretty large, and the vefTels 
 which line the canal and quays innumerable. 
 This is a fure mark of profperity and a flourifh- 
 ing trade. The city contains feveral triumphal 
 arches of ftone, the handfomeft of which Hands 
 upon a quay exactly oppofite to the place where 
 our vefTels flopped. This triumphal arch was 
 erected in ."honour of the Mandarin Pong-hi-uun, 
 in the forty-third year of the reign of the Em- 
 peror Kan ///(grandfather to the prefent Emperor)} 
 that is to fay, about the year 1702 of our era. 
 It bears the following Chinefe infcription : 
 That he may be remembered, 
 
 Thefe triumphal arches are called in China 
 Cap-pay-fong. 
 
 On 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 5. l8l 
 
 On the other fide of the canal, in the fuburbs 
 facing us, is a large fquare Imperial building, 
 with a double roof, and covered with yellow 
 varniihed tiles. In the middle of it ftands a 
 ftone monument with an infcription. It is af- 
 flicting to fee that a want of care on the part of 
 the administration of the city has already fuffered 
 feveral marks of decay to appear in this edifice. 
 
 We did not obferve any thing elfe worthy of 
 remark ; and found ourfelves ftrangely deceived 
 in regard to this celebrated city. 
 
 I learned this evening from my Chinefe fervant, 
 and was afterwards allured by our Interpreter, 
 that we owe to our firft conductor all the difficul- 
 ties that have been raifed in oppofition to our wifh 
 of feeing the city in detail. He had concerted with 
 the Mandarins the means of deceiving our hopes, 
 particularly with refpect to a fight of the women, 
 who are reckoned the handfomeft in all China, 
 and who have fuch a reputation for gallantry 
 throughout the Empire, that the court and the 
 principal Mandarins procure from hence the 
 ornaments of their feraglios. In order to attain his 
 end with the greater certainty, he even went fo 
 far as to poft up a prohibition before our arrival, 
 forbidding any female to come in our way, under 
 
 N 3 a fevei e 
 
I$2 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 a fevere penalty. It is no wonder then if our 
 hopes were delufive. 
 
 With a conductor of a more generous nature 
 we might have ftaid three days in the place, and 
 have feen every thing worthy of attention as well 
 as the environs ; inftead of which, our expec- 
 tations were entirely fruftrated by the bafe jea- 
 loufy of this arrogant Mandarin, who did not 
 however fail to purchafe two pretty concubines, 
 nor forget to carry them away with him. 
 
 This trade in women is a principal branch of 
 the commerce of the city of Sou-tcheou-fou, and the 
 befl refource of many of its inhabitants, as well 
 as thofe of Hong-tcheoufou, in the province of 
 Tche-kiang. Son-tcheou-fou, however, bears away 
 the palm from its rival. A great number of in- 
 dividuals have no other means of exiftence, and, 
 with a view to this traffic, make excurfions about 
 the country, in order to buy of the poor inhabi- 
 tants fuch of their children as promife to be 
 beautiful. 
 
 They bring up thefe young girls with the 
 greateit care, drefs them elegantly, teach them 
 all forts of needlework, and to play upon dif- 
 ferent inftnnnents of mufic, in order that their 
 
 charms 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. 183 
 
 charms and accomplifliments may render them 
 agreeable to the perfons into whofe hands they 
 may chance to fall. 
 
 The handfomeft of them are generally bought 
 for the court and the Mandarins of the firft clafs. 
 One who unites beauty with agreeable accom- 
 plifliments fetches from four hundred and fifty 
 to feven hundred louis-d'ors, while there are 
 fome who fell for lefs than a hundred. 
 
 The nature of the population in China affords 
 two girls for a boy ; a circumftance which ad- 
 mits of the fpeculations I am fpeaking of, and 
 renders them highly beneficial. 
 
 From this general practice, as well as from 
 the cuftom of giving a price, called a dowry, 
 to the parents of the girl whom a man marries, 
 a cuftom prevalent even among the firft perfon- 
 ages of the Empire, it is evident that all the 
 women in China are an article of trade. 
 
 The hufband, in certain cafes fpecified by the 
 law, has a right to fell his lawful wife, unlefs 
 her family choofe to take her back, and reftore 
 the dowry they received at the time of her 
 marriage. 
 
 N 4 There 
 
VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 There is no country in the world in which the 
 
 women live in a greater date of humiliation, or 
 
 are lefs confidered than in China. Thofe whofe" 
 
 bufbands are of high rank are always confined ; 
 
 thofe of the fecond clafs are a fort of upper 
 
 fervants, deprived of all liberty ; while thofe of 
 
 the lower are partakers with the men of the 
 
 hardeft kind of labour. If the latter become 
 
 mothers it is an additional burthen, fince while 
 
 at work they carry the child tied upon the back, 
 
 at leaft till it is able to go alone. 
 
 o 
 
 vSuch is the fate of the Chinefe women ; and, 
 however hard it may appear to us, thefe weak 
 beings fuffer it with a patience and fubmiffion 
 which habit alone can teach. 
 
 What a difference between their condition 
 and that of the women in the greater part of 
 Europe ! Perhaps morofe beings may be found 
 to affirm, that there are fome of the latter who 
 would be benefited by participating for a time 
 in the treatment the former endure. 
 
 It may be fuppofed, from what I have faid of 
 the degradation of the fair fex in China, that 
 jealoufy is unknown there, and that the women 
 might without danger have an intercourfe with 
 
 Euro- 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5' *$!> 
 
 v 
 
 Europeans ; but the Chinefe are not of that 
 opinion ; nor is there any one among them who 
 would choofe to rifk an experiment, which 
 they guard againft, on the contrary, with the 
 utmoft vigilance. 
 
 Our ftay ; at Sou-tcheou-fou having no longer an 
 objecl, we quitted it at eight o'clock at night. 
 
 At about ten li from the city we patted by a 
 very long (tone bridge, called Pau-tay-kian, 
 (landing to the eaftward of the canal. It has 
 fixty-three arches, of which the three middle 
 ones alone are arched, the others being covered 
 with long flat. Hones laid acrofs pillars. We 
 travelled all night long. 
 
 22d. This morning at three o'clock our firft 
 f Mandarin ordered the vefTels to ftop abreaft of 
 the city of Uu-kiang-chen till day-break, when we 
 proceeded on our journey. 
 
 Uu-kiang-chen appears a moderately large place, 
 and has extenfive fuburbs built alongfide of the 
 canal. 
 
 In the Interior of the city is a tower of fix 
 
 ftories high, which differs little in conftruction 
 
 i from 
 
l86 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 from that of Cau-ming-rji, but is not in equally 
 good repair. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the fuburbs is a large 
 none bridge of five arches, kept in very good 
 order. Each pier refts upon a fingle ftone, in like 
 manner as thofe of the bridge I mentioned yef- 
 terday. Near that I am now fpeaking of we 
 paired through another, alfo of none, the princi- 
 pal arch of which has a fpan of at lean fifty feet,, 
 and is the largeft I have hitherto feen. 
 
 Upwards of twenty it beyond the city of Uu- 
 kiang-chen is a quay alongfide of the canal, which 
 has itfelf a facing of hewn ftone on each fide. 
 The quay is interrupted or occupied by more 
 than thirty ftone bridges, almoil all with arches. 
 In the number are two of five, and another very 
 handfome one of feven. The piers of thefe bridges, 
 like thofe mentioned yefterday and to-day, reft 
 upon mattes of ftone, each of a fingle block. 
 
 The quantity of hewn ftone employed in- 
 fuch places only of this province as have lain upon 
 our road is truly furprifmg, when we know that 
 the neareft place from which it can be procured 
 is a hundred and fifty it diftant, and fometimes 
 
 more. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 1S7 
 
 more. Thefe works muft confequently have oc- 
 ocafined enormous labour and expence. 
 
 The country we have patted through in this 
 day's journey is lower than that of yeiterday,andis 
 divided by a number of little canals and ditches. 
 Hence it is that little elfe than rice is cultivated. 
 The ground continues to be uneven, and full of 
 graves and trees, which produce a variety not 
 difagreeable to the eye. 
 
 I remarked here a lingular ufage relative to 
 the dead, whofe coffins are depofited in any field 
 indifcriminately, and upon the furface of the 
 earth. Thofe who can afford it build a little 
 fquare wall round the coffin, equal to it in height, 
 over which a fmall roof is erected, covered with 
 tiles; others lay ftraw and mats over it ; while 
 the lower clafs of people content themfelves 
 with laying merely a Jlratnm of turf over the 
 coffin, and leave it in that iituation. We have 
 patted by a great many graves of this kind during 
 the two laft davs. 
 
 As the Chinefe fliow a high degree of rever- 
 ence for the dead, this mode of treating them, 
 which appears fo indecent, attonifhed me much. 
 J enquired the reafon, and was told that the 
 
 land 
 
1 88 J ACE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 land was fo low, that the dead bodies could not 
 be interred without lying in the water ; an 
 idea which the Chinefe cannot bear, becaufe 
 they are perfuaded that the decealed love a dry 
 ubode. After fome time hd r elapfed, the coffins 
 that have been thus left m the open fields are 
 burnt with the bodies they contain ; and the 
 allies are carefully collected, and put into covered 
 urns, which are afterwards half buried in the 
 earth. I faw feveral urns thus depofited by the 
 road fide. 
 
 This was the iirft time I had ever heard that 
 the practice of burning the dead and collecting 
 their alhes is cuftomary in China, as it was 
 among the ancient Greeks and Romans. I do 
 not at leaft remember that in all I formerly read 
 concerning China any thing like it is mentioned ; 
 nor had I ever heard of any thing of the kind in 
 the thirty-fix years I had been perfonally ac- 
 quainted with the country ; a fpace of time 
 during which I frequently made enquiries of 
 men of letters and information concerning every 
 thing relative, to the- hiftory," manners, and pe- 
 culiarities of their native land. This fact is a 
 convincing proof that there are very few Chinefe 
 who have a general knowledge of the whole 
 Empire, or who are acquainted with the cuf- 
 toms of the provinces they do not inhabit. 
 
 In 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5. IS9 
 
 In thex:ourfe of the morning we faw feveral 
 fields fovvn vvith muftard already in flower. 
 Upon higher ground fituated along the canal we 
 alfo faw ' plantations of young mulberry trees, 
 intended to afford nourifhment to filk-worms, 
 which indicates that we are beginning to ap- 
 proach the manufactories of raw filk, which arc 
 principally carried on in the province of Tfihfa 
 kiang, although that filk, as I have already faid, 
 very improperly bears the name of Nam king. 
 
 Since I have mentioned the guardrhoufes, or 
 military pofts of the other provinces, I mall here 
 fay, with refpect to the province Kiang-mm, that 
 they are all in very good condition, and .fuffi'cl- 
 ently provided with troops, as we had it in our 
 power to judge, fince they did not fail to draw 
 up under arms upon our road. 
 
 At a quarter paftnine we palled by Pat-chac-Jai^ 
 a very large place, -and celebrated for its oil 
 extracted from turnips, which are cultivated 
 in great abundance. In this town we remarked a 
 (lone bridge of feven arches, the piers of which 
 refted upon mafles of (tone of a fingle block. 
 
 Every day we pafs by veflels laden with rice, 
 which are going up the canal. Yefterday in 
 
 par- 
 
I90 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 particular, while wc were at Sou-tcheoufou, the 
 number that went by was incredible. 
 
 The ground has aflumed a level furface, and, 
 as every thing is planted in beds, the fields have 
 the appearance of kitchen gardens. Even the 
 very mulberry trees, whofe growth appears to 
 be flopped at man's height, are alfo planted in 
 beds. It is highly probable that this diftrict is 
 fubject. to heavy rains, which require this pre- 
 caution, in order to carry off the water more 
 fpeedily, and to preferve the land from damage. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we were oppofite a little 
 lake, fituated to the weftward, and only feparated 
 from us by a quay, fimilar to thofe of which I 
 have already fpoken. 
 
 At noon we paffed Phing-mong-chan, a large 
 and populous place, and fo well built, that it 
 would be difgraced by a comparison with many 
 cities. It contains five itone bridges, one of 
 which has three arches, and two have only one ; 
 but they are of fifty or fixty feet diameter. Thefe 
 are at the end of the place, and kept in very 
 good order. 
 
 The 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. I9I 
 
 The piers here alfo Hand upon Tingle blocks of 
 ftone. In the two great arches which I have 
 juft mentioned the vault or curve is formed of 
 eleven ftones, and fix compofe the width of the 
 bridge. Ten of the ftones of the vault are each 
 eight feet long, as well as I was able to judge 
 from the height of a man, who was ftanding 
 upon one of the blocks at the foot of the piers, 
 and who ferved me as a meafure. The key-ftone 
 is fix feet broad. The arch in its whole fweep 
 defcribes a line fomewhat eliptic, the curve 
 being fmaller than that of a femi-circle. 
 
 The laft bridge, at the end of Pking-mong-chan, 
 has ten great ftones in the vault, and that which 
 ferves as the key-ftone is fmaller than in the pre- 
 ceding one. There are alfo eight fmaller ftones, 
 each a foot broad, let into the larger ones. All 
 the latter have a groove, which defcribes through- 
 out the whole of them a portion of an elipfis cor- 
 refponding with the edge of the arch, and the 
 line formed by the meeting of two ftones is in 
 the direction of a radius drawn to the centre of 
 the elipfis to which the curve of the arch belongs. 
 In a word, the whole is a proof that the ftricteft 
 geometrical rules have been obferved in the con- 
 ftrucYion of this bridge. 
 
 This 
 
I92 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 This place contains feveral temples of mode- 
 rate fize, which are kept in very good order. 
 One of them is dedicated to Kiam-long-citay-onan, 
 one to Sam-coun-tong, and two to Sing-ouon. 
 
 At Phing-mong-chan a great trade appears to be 
 carried on in bamboos, which grow there in re- 
 markable abundance. 
 
 Having patted this place, we found ourfelves 
 ihortly after abreaft of a great lake, in the centre 
 of which is a little tabular ifland, with a pagoda 
 {landing upon it, dedicated to Fat-Ion, 
 
 At half paft one we came to a very rich and 
 extenfive village, fituated weft of the canal, 
 where, as we were told, there is a confiderable 
 ^manufactory of fatin and. other fluffs of filk. The 
 houfes are, for the molt part, large, and well 
 arranged. This village is called Ouon-ca-tche, 
 
 At half paft three we reached Ouon-con-can, the 
 firft place we met with after entering the pro- 
 vince of Tche-kiang ; here our conductor ordered 
 a halt. The village is of fome extent, and at its 
 north end is a large and handfome triumphal 
 arch of ftone, near which Hands a fmall but neat 
 pagoda. Beyond the village are two ftone 
 
 bridges, 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— $' t 93' 
 
 bridges, n€ar to each other, one of which has 
 three arches, the other only one. The centre 
 arch of the firft bridge, as well as I was able to 
 judge by the (tones which formed the vault, was 
 fixty-four feet in width. One of the fide arches 
 is much funk* but ftill appears to be fuffieiently 
 ftrong to lafl many years : an advantage which 
 hewn ltone pofleffes in a high degree over bricks j 
 for the latter yields upon the flighted fhockj 
 all connexion is diflblved, and total ruin enfues. 
 The houfes of the village all appear to be kept 
 in good order. The inhabitants procure theit 
 means of fubfiftence from the manufacture of filk. 
 This is the mod noted place in the Empire for 
 making copper bafons, or gomgoms, an inftrument 
 which the Chinefe beat upon in faluting any- 
 one, to whom they wilh to pay particular honour. 
 
 Between two houfes fituated alongfide of the 
 canal, are four great triumphal arches, which 
 indicate that feveral perfons of great celebrity 
 muft have been inhabitants of this place. 
 
 After having taken a repafl we fet off at half 
 pail fix. As far as Ouon-ca-tchi the wind was in 
 our favour. 
 
 23 d; We arrived before three o'clock in the 
 
 morning at a village called Ca-hong-bou, where 
 
 Vol. II. Q we 
 
1^4 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 we changed our trackers and fet off again two 
 hours after, directing our courfe to the fouth-weft. 
 
 At day-break I obferved that the furface of the 
 country was become uneven. We pafled by a 
 great many hills covered with trees, among 
 which we diftinguifhed whole plantations of mul- 
 berry trees, and a great number of orchards. 
 There was very little arable land. The number 
 of trees and fhrubs with which we were furround- 
 ecl, confined our view to a fmall diftance on each 
 tide of the canal. The few houfes that I was 
 able to fee between them, were long and well 
 built. Thefe circumftances again announce the 
 rearing of filk-worms, which require a great deal 
 of room. 
 
 In anfwer to my queftions, I was told that the 
 mulberry-tree cultivated here, is of the kind which 
 bears the dark purple-coloured fruit, of a very 
 agreeable tafle. Hence it mould feem that the 
 filk-wcrm is here fed with the leaves of our well- 
 known domeftic mulberry tree, and not with- 
 that of the wild one. 
 
 In France and Italy it is affirmed that the latter 
 is alone fit for the nourifhment of this infect, and 
 that the leaves of the common mulberry tree are 
 
 too 
 

 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. I95 
 
 too coarfe, and too little f uited to the nature of 
 the animal for thofe that are fed upon it, to pro- 
 duce filk of a good quality. But the raw filk of 
 Tc/ie-kiang being reckoned the fineft and moil 
 valuable in the known world, we may conclude 
 that the European opinion concerning the mul- 
 berry-tree is rather a prejudice than the refult of 
 decifive experience. 
 
 I will even venture to give implicit belief to 
 what I have been told in this refpe£t by thofe 
 whom I have confulted, becaufe they are fo well 
 acquainted with the nature of the mulberry tree, 
 that they afterwards obferved to me, that the fe- 
 male tree alone produces the fruit, while the male 
 bears nothing but flowers, without any fructifica- 
 tion. I was even much aftoniihed to hear thefe 
 distinctions made by one of the common people, 
 whofe bufinefs was navigation, and not agricul- 
 ture. As he alfo defcribed to me the fruit, its tafte, 
 and its colour with wonderful accuracy, I had no 
 room left for doubt, efpecially as the trees of which 
 I had a very near view, appeared to me precifely 
 the fame as our garden mulberry trees in Hol- 
 land, and exceedingly different from the wild 
 mulberry tree (murier rofe). The latter appears 
 unknown in this country. 
 
 O 2, At 
 
1^6 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 At a quarter paft nine we patted through a 
 bridge called C/ia-ong-kiou, near which arefeveral 
 fliops by the fide of the canal. The bridge is 
 ftrong and well conftru&ed. From the dimenfions 
 of the ftones I was led to eftimate the circumference 
 of itsfemi-circular arch at twenty fix feet, and 
 its diameter at more than fifty-fcven*. I obferv- 
 ed of this bridge, as I had already done of fe- 
 veral others, that between the large ftones, 
 fmaller ones had been inferted : thefe are alfo of 
 a lingle block, and the width of the bridge ferves 
 as a meafure for their length. Thus, the arch 
 that I am juft fpeaking of, is compofed of only 
 feventy-fix ftones; viz. fixty-fix great ftones 
 placed in eleven rows, which are feparated by 
 the ten intermediate ones: they are all at 
 leaft half a foot thick. Over thefe there is ano- 
 ther layer of ftones, placed horizontally, each of 
 which is fomething more than three inches thick. 
 All thefe ftones are a kind of grey granite, and 
 exceedingly hard. The width of the road-way is 
 generally nine or ten French feet. 
 
 * Here appears to be fome miftake. At leaft if the tranflatioa 
 
 render corre&ly the fenfe of thefe words of the text : Les di» 
 
 - men/ions des pier res m'ont fait donner au ccntour de fon arche demi- 
 
 fphettque v'tngt-jin pied: et plus de dnquante fept pieds a fon diametre* 
 
 Near 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. Ugj 
 
 Near this bridge are feven triumphal arches of 
 ftone; fix ftanding three and three, on two diffe- 
 rent fpots: the feventh alone. They are dedi- 
 cated for the moft part to women j for inftance, 
 to three very young widows, who refufed to marry 
 again; and to an old woman of ninety-eight years 
 of age. A man celebrated for filial piety has alfo 
 obtained one. The inscription engraved on the 
 pedeftal of the other being concealed by a hut, 
 we could not difcover the motive of its erection. 
 
 In proportion as we advanced, and new fpace 
 was difclofed to our view, we perceived the 
 number of mulberry trees increafe; and towards 
 noon the country was entirely covered with them. 
 
 A few minutes before twelve o'clock we pafled 
 by one of the Emperor's feats called Chap-moun- 
 oitan-ouoncong, entirely furrounded with walls. 
 The roofs are in a very neglecled ftate, and no- 
 thing has a pleafing appearance except a ftone 
 quay, built upon the fpot fronting the Imperial 
 houfe, and appearing to have recently had a tho- 
 rough repair. The Emperor not having travelled 
 for the laft twelve years to the fouthern parts of 
 the Empire, it appears that all the money is re- 
 ferved for his prefent country refidencies; or per- 
 baps fome of it goes to fill the pockets of indi- 
 O 3 viduals. 
 
I9S VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 viduals. Formerly the Monarch went as faf as 
 Hong-tcheou-fou to divert himfelf in thefe coun- 
 tries, and to give a look to the fouthern provinces, 
 by which they were fure to be benefited. Then 
 the Mandarins took care that every thing mould 
 appear in good condition. The roads, the 
 bridges, the quays, the edifices and fumrner pa- 
 laces of the Emperor, every thing was at all 
 times ready to undergo his examination. Thefe 
 conftant repairs were alfo extended to a great 
 number of public buildings Here, as in Eu- 
 rope, and every where elfe, ihe eye of the mafter 
 is often necefiary, its influence generally conduc- 
 ing to the happinefs of the people, and the good 
 order of the ftate. 
 
 At noon we were a-breaft of Chap-mowi-fan, 
 which ftands on both banks. We were half an 
 hour in pafling through as much of the canal as 
 correfponds with its length. It appears at a dis- 
 tance very clofely built, and very populous, as 
 was attefted by the number of perfons, both male 
 and female, who thronged to fee us, compofing 
 crowds at which we were perfectly aftonifhed. 
 
 Chap-moun-fan muft carry on a great trade in 
 young plants or fets of the mulberry tree, fince I 
 
 few 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. I99 
 
 faw heaps of them putting on board boats from 
 one end of the canal to the other. 
 
 I alfo faw feveral veffels pafs by loaded with 
 indigo, in their way to ' ou-tchecu fou where it is 
 ufed in dying filk and linen. This fubflance is 
 cultivated and manufactured in the diftn:*. of 
 Tay-chiou-fou, in the province of Tche-kiang. The 
 Chinefe, however, do not keep it as elfewbere 
 in dry pieces or cakes, but leave it in a moift 
 Hate refembling wet clay, and carry it in balkets 
 to the places where the dyers and manufacturers 
 refide. The ufe of that dye being very general 
 in China for all kinds of fluffs and linen, the con- 
 fumption is considerable. All the indigo manu- 
 factured in China remains in the country; for I 
 never had the lead reafon to fuppofe that any was 
 exported to Europe, which its moid date would 
 indeed render impracticable. The province of 
 Quang-tong produces a great quantity of that co- 
 louring matter. 
 
 At half paft one, we paffed by a place which 
 appeared to me to be a common burying ground. 
 In one of the angles were feveral coffins, placed 
 near one another on the ground; and a little far- 
 ther on, funeral urns half buried in the earth. A 
 little farther Hill in the fame piece of ground, 
 O 4 are 
 
203 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 are three handfome hexagonal columns of Hone, 
 Handing by the fide of each other: they are ten 
 or twelve feet high. The middle one, which 
 exceeds the others in fize, may be four or five 
 feet in diameter. A fingle convex ftone, of fmall 
 thicknefs, ferves as a capital to each of them, 
 and from it's middle proceeds a double ball of 
 metal chafed. In the front of thefe columns, 
 which (land under the (hade of a lofty tree, an' 
 infcription is engraved. I was allured that fu-: 
 nereal urns were lodged infide of them. 
 
 By the fide of thofe columns is an antique 
 tomb, which, to judge from its dimenfions, muft 
 contain two coffins; and which, according to the 
 indications afforded by the growth of ivy, and 
 by the efFe£t of time upon the (tones, muft have 
 flood at leaft two hundred years. 
 
 Near this tomb is a pagoda in which the dead 
 are depofited previously to their interment, and 
 where an offering is made in their favour. I took 
 a (ketch of this fpot, in order to. have a cc-recl 
 drawing made of it at Canton. 
 
 At half pan: two we came to another burying 
 ground, on which ftand four ftone columns, in- 
 tended to contain fepulchral urns. Thefe ca* 
 
*»•* 
 
 & 
 
 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 201 
 
 lumns may be about fix feet fquare, and ten or 
 twelve feet high, with capitals of more or left 
 elevation. 
 
 At the entrance of this cemetery, which is 
 fituated to the weft ward of the canal, while that 
 of the preceding one is to the eaftward, are four 
 triumphal arches of done; but one of them is 
 fallen to the ground. 
 
 At three o'; lock we came to the fuburbs of 
 Che-men- chen, which are pretty extenfive, and 
 then to the city itfelf. Its ramparts bear all the 
 marks of antiquity. They are of hewn ftone as 
 high as the parapet, which, as well as the embra- 
 fures, is of brick. But the whole of it is at pre- 
 fent in a ruinous ftate. According to the line, we 
 defcribed while palling by the city, it is of an irre- 
 gular form approaching a fquare. It is faid to 
 be twenty It in circumference; to be well built, 
 and to be inhabited by many perfons of opu- 
 lence and diftinclion. 
 
 At the entrance of the fuburbs we paired by a 
 considerable convent, with its temple and depen- 
 dencies. The temple is dedicated to the Chrif- 
 tian Kiam-long-chay-ouang) whom I have feveral 
 times had occafion to mention. We perceived 
 
2©2 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 in the fuburbs and city of Che-men-chen, two or 
 three other convents of mean appearance. 
 
 Being come to the fouth fide of the city, our 
 firft conductor ordered a halt, an opportunity of 
 which we availed ourfelves to take our repair. 
 We were then in front of a noble building, which 
 when the Emperor ufed to travel to the fouth, 
 ferved him as lodgings on his paflage through 
 this place. It is called Ouan-cong, and appears 
 to be kept in very good order. 
 
 At a quarter paft fix we fet off again, our di- 
 rection, which in the morning had changed to 
 the fouth, having turned again to the fouth-weft. 
 
 The country, like that we travelled through 
 yefterday, is interfered with canals and ditches. 
 We pafled through nine great bridges, (befides 
 thofe which I have particularly mentioned under 
 this day's date) and through feveral fmall ones, 
 all of none, and almoft all conitrucled like thofe 
 I have fo amply defcribed : I took a regular plan 
 of them. 
 
 We faw befides thirteen triumphal arches, two 
 of the moil: remarkable of which owed their 
 erection to the exemplary conduct of two fons 
 
 towards 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— 5. 20$ 
 
 towards their parents. Almoft all the reft were 
 in honour of faithful wives, or girls who died 
 virgins. Three others were lying in ruins. We 
 have then feen in the courfe of this day no lefs 
 than twenty-feven of thefe pieces of architecture, 
 erected to different virtues, and giving real cele- 
 brity to the places where they Hand. Whenever 
 I faw thefe figns of public refpe£t for virtuous 
 beings, I felt a fort of confufion and fecret pain, 
 upon thinking that among us there exift no fuch 
 marks of a juft homage paid to valuable quali- 
 ties, and calculated to excite emulation. 
 
 Is conduct, or an action, in itfelf worthy of 
 praife, to be lefs commended becaufe it belongs 
 to an obfeure individual, than if it could be at- 
 tributed to a perfon of high rank, who has been 
 taught by his education to fet a juft value upon 
 true honour? As to me, I profefs the contrary 
 opinion, exactly becaufe elevated rank furnifhes 
 an incitement which is wanting to him, whofe 
 neglected education has neither afforded him 
 great models, nor ufeful leffons. 
 
 24th. At half paft three in the morning we 
 paffed under a conliderable bridge of three arches, 
 the middle one being of very confiderable dimen- 
 fions. The canal is become wider, and our route, 
 
 which 
 
&04 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 which during a part of the night had taken a di» 
 ieclion weftward, has turned again to the foufh. 
 
 A little after four we paffed a large place 
 called Thong-ci-fan, where a number of hand- 
 fome houfes are built along the canal, and Where 
 there is a conquan, or occasional refidence for the 
 Emperor. At the fouth end of this place {lands 
 a beautiful triumphal arch of ftone, of confider- 
 able fize, and ornamented with a great deal of 
 fculpture and gilding. 
 
 At fun-rife we perceived mountains at a great 
 oiftance, extending from the eaft to the fouth, 
 and fome alfo in a weftern direction. 
 
 The country was higher on the weftern than 
 on the eaftern fide of the canal. The latter for 
 this reafon grows fewer mulberry trees, which 
 require a high fituation. Corn and other vege- 
 tables are fown in beds of only a foot and a half 
 wide, as tobacco is planted in Holland, with 
 little ditches or drains between them. The earth 
 taken from thefe ditches ferves to raife the beds, 
 and preferve the feed from the ravages committed 
 by heavy rains. 
 
 In 
 
SMBASSlT TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 20$ 
 
 In front of the road, or rather quay, and by 
 the fide of the canal, runs a wall of hewn ftone, 
 which fuffered greatly in feveral places by the 
 inundation of laft year, on account of its bad 
 foundation, confiding of nothing but two rows of 
 thin piles. Immediately on thefe reft the lower 
 ftones, without any other fupport, even that of 
 a plank. The earth being wafhed away by the 
 water, the piles can no longer fupport the weight 
 of the ftones, which are each about fifteen inches 
 cube, and are piled upon one another to the 
 height of eight or ten feet: they confequently 
 fink in, or give way, and the mafonry tumbles 
 to pieces. 
 
 After confidering attentively the folidity and 
 excellent execution of the bridges, I was greatly 
 aftonifhed at finding ftru&ures in the fame places 
 befpeaking the groffeft ignorance, and even fhi- 
 pidity. This long quay is neverthelefs equally 
 necefTary with the bridges, and requires to be 
 kept in as good repair. 
 
 At eight o'clock the country to the eaftward 
 grew higher, and the orchards of mulberry trees 
 began in confequence to re-appear. On both 
 fides of the canal was alfo a confiderable number 
 ©f peach trees in blofiom, which made the prof- 
 peel 
 
ao6 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 pe£t very agreeable. I am aflured that peaches 
 are very common here, and much larger than in 
 Europe. I faw alfo a great number of China 
 orange, plum, and other kinds of fruit trees. 
 
 At eight o'clock we were in light of a very 
 high infulated mountain, ftanding between two 
 branches of the canal, at about five // diftance to 
 the eaftward. It is covered with a variety of 
 trees to the very fummit, on which are built, 
 under a thick made, a convent and a pagoda 
 called Ling-jihhi-chan* All the other mountains 
 were bare, and without the fmalleft verdant fpot. 
 
 The guard-houfes of this province by which 
 we have pafTed are all in good condition, and 
 appear to have their complement of ten foldiers, 
 with an officer of the gilt button. Thefe mili- 
 tary pofts are in this province at unequal diftances 
 from each other, from five to ten //, according as 
 the diftrict is more or lefs populous. On our 
 prefent road they are only feparated by an in- 
 terval of five //. 
 
 During the morning we pafTed by feveral ce- 
 meteries, interfperfed with noble Hone columns, 
 infide of which are funeral urns. We alfo 
 paiTed by a dozen of convents and temples, for 
 
 the 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 2C? 
 
 the moft part in good prefervation ; but we did 
 not perceive a Tingle triumphal arch. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we found ourfelves under a 
 large bridge of three arches, fimilar to that we 
 had feen in the morning. After patting this 
 bridge we came to the fuburbs of the celebrated 
 city of Hong-tcheou-fou. They are interfered bj 
 feveral ditches with handfome bridges acrofs 
 them, under feveral of which we patted. At 
 three quarters paft twelve we came to the place 
 where veflfels, ftop, and where there is a large 
 and handfome edifice, intended to ferve as lodg- 
 ings for the principal Mandarins* when they 
 travel. 
 
 Shortly after our third conductor came to in- 
 form the Ambafiador and me that an Imperial 
 entertainment will be given us to-morrow in the 
 city. He requefted us to hold ourfelves in rea- 
 dinefs at an early hour, becaufe it is intended to 
 mew us feveral things worth v of attention. In 
 confequence of this he propofed to us not to dine 
 at the place of the ceremony j but to defer that 
 repaft till the evening, when we are to embark 
 on board of other boats, into which our baggage 
 will be removed during our excurfion. We ac- 
 quiefced in every thing without the lead oppo- 
 4 fition. 
 
aoS VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 fitiori. He added that we are to flop again nedf 
 this place the day after to-morrow in our new 
 veiTels, in order that we may, if we think proper, 
 procure a few curiofities, or a fight of any thing 
 interefting, which gives us much pleafure; for 
 we have heard Hong-tcheou-fou and its environs fo 
 highly extolled, that our curiofity is ftrongly ex- 
 cited, and we {hall be very happy to gratify it. 
 
 This afternoon our five gentlemen went into 
 the city to fee if the fhops contained any thing 
 remarkable ; and returned at three o'clock with- 
 out having obferved any thing worthy of notice. 
 They were not able to proceed far into the city* 
 the gates being a great diftance from our anchor- 
 ing place. They confequently faw little more 
 than the fuburbs. 
 
 The change of vefTels, which is to take place 
 to-morrow, will not be advantageous to us as to 
 accommodations, thofe we are to go on board 
 of being (mailer than thofe we' are to leave, on 
 account of the fhoals that obftrucl the reft of the 
 river. Our baggage is to be conveyed thirty // 
 by land, as far as the little town of Tak-hau, 
 where thofe vefTels are waiting for us, in confe- 
 quence of there being no communication be- 
 tween the river and the canal along which we 
 have hitherto travelled. This removal is as un- 
 
 pleafant 
 
feMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 20£ 
 
 pleafant as troublefome, becaufe our effefts are 
 always fure to fuftain confiderable injury. For- 
 tunate will it be if fair weather permit our Coulis 
 to go the whole diftance without flopping! 
 
 25th. We got our baggage ready at an early 
 hour of the morning, in order that it may be con- 
 veyed to the veffels, which are to carry us to the 
 confines of this province. 
 
 The hire of our prefent yachts from Von-ca-feft 
 hither is only nine Louis d'ors; a very fmall fum, 
 efpecially if we confider that from twelve to fix- 
 teen men are employed on board of them. The 
 Mandarins do thefe poor wretches great injuftice, 
 in order to fill their own pockets, the Emperor's 
 name ferving as a cover for plunder. 
 
 Each cart employed in carrying our baggage 
 from Pe-king to Von-ca-fen, had only two Louis 
 d'ors for a route of twenty-three days, although 
 there were five horfes and three men to each. 
 Luckily they found a profitable load to carry back 
 with them ; for in general they are obliged to go 
 as far as the province of Kiang-nam i without earn- 
 ing any thing whatever. The expence of their re- 
 turn will not however be forgotten to be inferted 
 in the account. Our conductors, and all their 
 
 Vol. II, P fervantSj 
 
*IO VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 fervants, know well how much fuch fortunate 
 chances ought to bring them. 
 
 At eight o'clock the AmbarTador and I were 
 requefted to repair to the city with our whole 
 fuite ; we accordingly went in ftate in our pa- 
 lanquins. At three quarters paft two we entered' 
 a building by the fide of the Imperial palace, 
 whence, after waiting half an hour, we were 
 conducted on foot to the latter place. There 
 we were received as at Sou-tcheou-fou with the 
 greatefi: ceremony. The garrifon was under 
 arms 5 and two Mandarins led us to the hall 
 where the Emperor's chap was laid upon an al- 
 tar. The Foa-yuen of the city and province, who 
 is coufin to the Emperor, and who wears the 
 pale-coloured button and peacock's feather in 
 his cap, was on the right hand of the altar, while 
 a great number of principal Mandarins flood on 
 each fide at fame diflance behind. When pretty 
 near the altar we flopped: the Foit-yuen then 
 came in front of it, and performed the falute of 
 honour: rifmg again, he took the Emperor's let- 
 ter, which was upon the altar, and advanced to- 
 wards us. At this moment we knelt down, and 
 he communicated to us through the medium of 
 the Lingua what he feemed to read in the letter, 
 " that his Imperial Majefty, fatisfied to the laft 
 
 " degree 
 

 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 211 
 
 u degree with the Dutch Embafiy, as well as 
 " with the conduct of the AmbafTador and his 
 " fuite, had given orders to entertain his Excel- 
 s< lency in his name, to make him prefents, to 
 (i treat him in the kindeft manner, and to fliew 
 " him the moft remarkable things the city con- 
 " tained," &c. &c. 
 
 The letter being perufed, we performed the 
 falute of honour, and then rofe and prefented out 
 refpects to the Fou-yuen and fome of the prii :: Dal 
 Mandarins, who begged us to feat ourfelves upon 
 tuihions, in order to fee the play. Little tables 
 were afterwards fet before us, covered with fweet- 
 meats and fruit, that were removed to make 
 room for porringers full of hot viands, which in 
 their turn were fucceeded by roaft and boiled 
 meat. Thefe we did not even tafte. 
 
 During this repair, actors and tumblers, richly 
 and varioufly habited, difplayed their talents upon 
 a fuperb theatre oppofite the hall. This diver- 
 fion engaged our attention for half an hour: we 
 then rofe to go and fee the interefting things, the 
 idea of which had ftrongly excited our curiofity. 
 
 The prefents were brought and put upon tables 
 in the hall. The Fou-yuen offered them to us, 
 
 P 1 and 
 
112 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 and we expreffed our gratitude by a new falute 
 of honour. This ceremony being at an end, the 
 Fou-yuen advanced towards the Ambaffador, and 
 told him in the moft affable manner, that in con- 
 formity with the Emperor's orders, he had di- 
 rected two Mandarins to fhew us fome curious 
 objects worthy of our attention. His Excellency 
 having thanked him both for the favour and his 
 kindnefs, we took our leave. It was eleven 
 o'clock when we left the palace to make our ex- 
 curfion. 
 
 I fhall begin my defcription by the city: 
 
 Hong-tcheou-fou is fixty li in circumference (fix 
 leagues). It is of irregular form ; in fome places 
 the walls are circular; in others ftraight; and in 
 others again, they wind up the fide of lofty moun- 
 tains. The interior of the city is pretty well 
 built, and contains feveral handfome houfes. It 
 is interfered by a number of ditches: the ftreets 
 are not wide, but they are well paved with large 
 hewn ftones. In pairing through them I remarked 
 fome capital fhops difplaying a great choice of 
 goods, and warehoufes containing all forts of 
 merehandife. Among others, to my great afto- 
 nifhment, I faw three watch-maker's fhops, 
 and a great number of others full of fmoaked 
 
 hams. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5.. 213 
 
 hams. It looked as if Weftphalia was in China, 
 and in the vicinity of this city. 
 
 I obferved alfo feveral very pretty triumphal 
 arches of ftone, and two of remarkable fize and 
 grandeur, ftanding clofe by the fide of each 
 other, and within the city gates. Near thefe 
 gates two pieces of cannon are planted, carrying 
 a ball of about fix pounds weight, and mounted 
 upon carriages with three wheels. 
 
 In one of the flreets I alfo remarked a Maho- 
 metan mofque. 
 
 On the architrave of the building is an infcrip- 
 tion in Arabic, of which I took a copy. 
 
 On this fubject. our third conductor affined me 
 that Sou-tcheou-fou, and fome other city contained 
 mofques likewife, but that the Emperor having 
 made war twelve years ago againft a Mahometan 
 nation upon the weftern frontier of the Empire, 
 had banifhed all foreigners of that feci: from thofe 
 three places, fo that there are no longer any to 
 be found in China. 
 
 Having reached the outfide of the city, wc 
 had a good opportunity of feeing the walls, 
 
 P 3 which 
 
414 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 which are of great antiquity; they are conftruct- 
 ed of hewn ftone as high as the parapet, and are 
 of brick- work above. Its whole furfaceis cover- 
 ed with different parafitical plants, and even with 
 Cmall fhrubs, which have found means to grow 
 in the crevices of the walls. 
 
 We were carried to a confiderable diftance 
 along the weft fide of the city without the walls, 
 till we perceived the lake of Tfay-von-cang, fo fa- 
 mous throughout China, on account of the Em- 
 peror's Cummer palaces.,, which Hand upon its 
 borders, and in its vicinity. This lake is fituated 
 between the eaftern part of the city, and high 
 mountains, interfperfed with pines and other 
 kinds of trees, and winding from the north-weft 
 end of the city, to the Couth- weft of it, at which 
 part the walls are carried over the top of one of 
 them. On the Cummit of the others, are five 
 convents or pagodas, viz. Pac-chan-hong, Samfing- 
 ying, Samfing-chec, Nam-chan-hong, and Onang-tji^ 
 all ftanding under the made of lofty trees. 
 
 The lake contains three iflands, of which the 
 
 moft northerly, and alfo the largeft, called Ouong- 
 
 cong-chan, has a mountain in the middle. The 
 
 centre ifland is called Lok-yet-chung, and the 
 
 'Couthern one Tong-tfan-tji. Several villas ftand 
 
 upoq 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 11$ 
 
 upon each of them, and to thefe the Emperor 
 was in the habit of going to amufe himfelf every 
 day while at Kong-tcheou-fou. 
 
 Two roads are carried over the lakes. They are 
 paved in the middle, and on their fides are plant- 
 ed with willows, bananas, peach, and other fruit 
 trees. There are alfo a great many flone bridges 
 of a fmgle arch, in order that the little pleafure 
 boats may pafs to both fides of thefe roads. On 
 each of the bridges formerly ftood open pavilions, 
 feveral of which are now lying in ruins upon the 
 ground. 
 
 One of the two roads leads from the city to the 
 great ifland, to the north of which is a noble 
 ftone bridge of five archers, ferving as a commu- 
 nication between the ifland and the main. The 
 other road which paffes over the weftern part of 
 the lake lies north and fouth. 
 
 We were carried along the foot of the moun- 
 tains to the north of the lake, a little diftance 
 from the city. On the fummit of thofe moun- 
 tains we were fhewn a tower, called Pau-foc- 
 tkafe, which muft, when entire, have refembled 
 that of Cau-ming-tji, and others of the fame kind ; 
 but nothing now remains except the mafs of build- 
 
 P 4 ing, 
 
2l6_ VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 ing, and the beautiful fpire of caft metal, with 
 chains ftill hanging about it. The roof, as well 
 as the galleries, which were of wood, are 
 either deftroyed by the confuming hand of time, 
 or perhaps by the aclion of celeftial fire. In 
 going along the mountains we alfo paffed near a 
 great convent, the neighbourhood of which con- 
 tains feveral handfome temples. It is called 
 Tay-faa-tji, and makes a very fine appearance. 
 At the foot of thefe mountains, as alfo in feveral 
 places a fmall way up their fides, are a consider- 
 able number of little low buildings, in every 
 one of which are coffins containing dead bodies, 
 to be kept there till the time of their interment. 
 Thefe little buildings are divided into fifteen or 
 twenty cells, all following one another, and cal- 
 culated to receive a coffin each. The whole ch> 
 cumference of the lake being almoft entirely 
 full of them, it may be fafely faid that the 
 dead bodies lie there by hundreds, and that fome 
 of them have been waiting to be inhumed for 
 thefe fixty or eighty years, or perhaps more. 
 Thefe places, and the depofits made there, are 
 under the fafe-guard of the bonzes belonging to 
 the neighbouring convents, who receive on that 
 account a remuneration which contributes in a 
 great degree to their fupport. 
 
 Further 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 21J 
 
 Further on we found three or four hamlets, 
 full of (hops j and feveral triumphal arches of 
 flone, (landing either between the houfes or near 
 the fepulchres. 
 
 When we came to an elbow made by the 
 mountains to the north-weft, we were defired to 
 alight from our palanquins, in order to fee the 
 tomb of the celebrated Calao, named Ngok-fi, or 
 otherwife Ngok-fo-hand-kan, whofe flory I related 
 under the date of the 1 9th of this month. The tomb 
 of this unfortunate, but eflimable man, con fills of 
 a hemifphere of brick. On the left of it is ano- 
 ther fmaller one, which covers the remains of 
 Ngok-ouang, his fon. In front of the great tomb, 
 and oppofite the middle of it, is an altar fupport- 
 ing a vafe for incenfe ; the whole of hewn (lone, 
 and intended for facrifices offered to the memory 
 of this noble character. 
 
 The two tombs conflru&ed upon an elevated 
 fpot, are feparated by a wall with a triple gate, 
 from a large fquare fore-court, along the middle 
 of which, in a line from the firfl outer gate to the 
 inner one, Hand a number of antique figures cut 
 in flone, and oppofite to each other. Each row 
 confifls of three Mandarins, a horfe faddled, a 
 ram lying down, and a fitting lion. Qn the two 
 3 fides 
 
Il8 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 fides of the firft outer sate are alfo the bronze 
 ftarues of the four calumniators, placed two by 
 two on their knees, with their hands tied behind 
 their back ; their faces turned towards the 
 fepulchre; their eyes caft down, and their names 
 infcribed upon their breaft, viz. Then-kouey and 
 Ouong-tfi his wife ; then Mau-tche-lu and Loua- 
 ■u-tcMt, For more than two centuries, it has 
 "been an eftablifhed cuftom among the Chinefe, 
 when they go to offer facrifices before the tomb, 
 to ftrike with a bit of ftone or wood upon the 
 forehead of the ftatues of thefe four villains, as a 
 fign of horror at their crime. At the time of our 
 vilit, one of them was detached from its pedeftal, 
 and lying in a corner near the gate. 
 
 The whole fepulchre is furrounded with walls, 
 and a number of trees are Handing by it. A large 
 and fuperb gate, with three paffages, forms the 
 entrance, which leads into a great court paved 
 with hewn ftone, and having on each fide two 
 beautiful cylindrical columns, alfo of hewn ftone, 
 and about fifteen feet high. A little further on 
 are two plain fquare pillars, of the fame height 
 as the columns. 
 
 After having viewed this juftly celebrated mo- 
 nument, to which time feems to have added 
 
 jfomething 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 £. 319 
 
 fomething ftill more auguft, by bringing round 
 ei°-ht hundred annual revolutions of the fun, 
 fince the moment, when in remembrance of 
 an involuntary but fatal error, the Emperor or- 
 dered it to be erected, to vindicate in an authen- 
 tic manner the memory of that virtuous Minifter 
 of State; after having viewed this monument, I 
 fay, we were conducted to the fouth fide of the 
 lake ; thence we were carried ever the embank- 
 ment or road which runs along the weft fide of 
 the lake, and of which I have already fpoken, 
 in order to fee the Imperial palace, and other 
 things worthy of notice. 
 
 I there got out of my palanquin to walk, and 
 be the better able to make obfervations. 
 
 I then examined the ifland of Ou-ou-cong to the 
 weft and fouth, having already feen the two 
 other fides of it. In this quarter it is planted 
 with trees up to the very fummit, having alfo a. 
 great number of handfome habitations ftanding 
 among them. 
 
 To the fouth are buildings belonging to the 
 Emperor, which, together with the gardens, 
 form a very pleating view. To the north and 
 eaft are much fewer dwellings; but a mixture 
 
 of 
 
220 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 of fmall boufes or receptacles for coffins, and the 
 tombs there, compofe a landfcape no doubt lefs 
 rich, but calculated to imprefs the man of fenfi- 
 bility, and to occupy his mind with ideas truly 
 philofophic. 
 
 To the weftward of the road along which we 
 were going, I paffed by two of the Emperor's 
 fummer palaces, both fituated upon two penin- 
 fulas, and furrounded with trees and flower gar- 
 dens. At the end of this road, and near the foot 
 of the mountain, we were conducted to his prin- 
 cipal refidence, called Ce-ou-yau-tien-nan, fituated 
 in a hollow of the mountain, and confiding of 
 feveral detached edifices, built upon rocks upon 
 different parts of the declivity. 
 
 Almoft every thing in this pict.urefque fituation 
 is entirely the work of nature ; and if fhe has 
 fome times borrowed the affiftance of art, the ef- 
 forts of the latter have been fo happy, that it 
 feems ftill as if nature has been working alone : 
 this delightful variety produces a fafcinating prof- 
 peer. From the pavilions and domes placed 
 here and there upon the declivity of the moun- 
 tain, the eye commands a full view of the lake, 
 and of the iilands it contains ; and on the other ficte, 
 takes in the different buildings, convents, tombs, 
 
 and 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794—5- £21 
 
 and towers, which are fcattered upon the flanks 
 of other mountains, and which embellifh their 
 fummits. So many objects united, compofe the 
 moft attractive fcene the imagination can con* 
 ceive. 
 
 Being at a fufficient elevation, we had a com- 
 plete view of the two flat iflands in the lake ; one 
 of them, called Tong-tjau-tfi, contains two large 
 ponds. In the front of this ifland, we remarked 
 three pillars of cad iron, (landing in the water in 
 a triangular pofition. The part of thefe pillars or 
 columns which appears above water, terminates 
 in a cone. 1 was told that they are about eighteen 
 feet high, feven feet diameter at their bafe, and 
 have already been (binding eight hundred years. 
 
 This renders it dill more painful to fee that in 
 general thefe fummer palaces bear fo many marks 
 of negligence, and of the decay which is the na- 
 tural confequence of it. It is the effect of the 
 Emperor's abfence for the I aft twelve years, and 
 of a belief that his great age oppofes an invincible 
 obftacle to his return. Thefe places, when kept 
 in good order, muft have been in the fummer 
 feafon a kind of terreitrial paradife; an afylum 
 where every thing invited to pleafure and fenfu- 
 ality. It is not without reafon that this lake and 
 
 its 
 
222 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 its environs are fo renowned throughout the whole 
 Chinefe Empire j and molt afluredly if nature 
 had created fuch happy fituations in Europei 
 their beauties would be inceffantly proclaimed. 
 
 It is impoflible for me to give a more exact de- 
 fcriptiort, after a (hort, and in fome degree a fu- 
 perficial examination. It would require eight 
 days, perhaps even double the time, to fee and 
 to admire all the beauties of the place, and to 
 inveftigate every thing attentively, fo as to let 
 neither fituation, edifice, ifland, nor profpect 
 efcape ; and after all it would be impoflible to 
 avoid overlooking fomething or other. 
 
 Neverthelefs, to pleafe my own tafte* and to 
 gratify my reader, whofe curiofity muft be ex- 
 cited by my imperfect defcription, I borrowed 
 from Duhalde a plan of the lake and city, and af- 
 terwards augmented and corrected it according 
 to my own perfoiaal obfervations ; and by thefe 
 means an idea may be formed of the enchanting 
 fituation of each of thofe imperial villas. 
 
 After having been entertained by our con- 
 ductors in one of the halls with refreihments con- 
 fining of fruits, paftry, and a dim of tea, we 
 quitted this delightful fpot, to go and fee a very 
 
 celebrated 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. tt% 
 
 celebrated convent and temple, which Hand at 
 no great diftance. 
 
 The principal bonze came out to meet us irt 
 the forecourt, and accompanied us, in order to 
 point out what was worthy of our notice. Every 
 thing is in very good order, and the principal 
 halls of the temple are both magnificent and fpa- 
 cious. In a large fquare lateral building, having 
 a circular gallery with two long galleries opening 
 into it, and interfering each other at right angles 
 in the centre, are placed five hundred images of 
 Saints, nearly as large as life, and fitting in diffe- 
 rent pofture.s". Some of them are painted and 
 varriifhed, but for the mod part they are gilt all 
 over. 
 
 We were de fired to obfervethat the Emperor 
 Kien-long is already included in the -number of 
 Saints, although ftill living; a proof of adulation 
 greater than that infpired by the chiefs of other 
 nations, and fuch as a wife Prince ought to re- 
 ject. ; but fince the Emperor of China is in the 
 habit of being ferved and honoured like a god, 
 it is very natural that he mould let himfelf be 
 inferted in the lift of the beatified before his- 
 death. 
 
 AU 
 
224 VOYAGE OF THE fcUTCtf 
 
 All thefe. figures of Saints are difpofed in fuch 
 a manner that there is a row feated along the 
 walls on both fides of the galleries, while in the 
 middle two are placed ftanding back to back, fo 
 that it requires a confiderable time to fee them alL 
 The trouble, however, is not to be regretted on 
 account of the variety of the figures and poftures 
 that prefent themfelves to the fpectator, while 
 turning continually between the different rows, 
 which form altogether a kind of labyrinth. 
 
 Some of the principal fiatues which occupy the 
 centre are of bronze, as well as feveral antique 
 cenfers and other facred vefTels. We were after-* 
 wards condu&ed to a little apartment near a 
 well, the depth of which I eftimated at more 
 than thirtv feet. A lighted candle was let down 
 into it by means of a cord, to enable us to diilin- 
 guifli a tree ftanding in the water at the bottom. 
 This tree, or rather this Hump, which has been 
 fawed off horizontally, is more than a foot in 
 diameter. The Chinefe related to us with the 
 greateft folemnity, and with an air of conviction, 
 that this tree continued conftantly to grow from 
 the bottom of the well till it had furniihed ex- 
 actly as much wood as was wanting for the con- 
 ftru&ion of the convent and temples ; after which 
 it remained in its prefent ftate* It is more eafy 
 
 to 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 225 
 
 to relate this miracle than to prevail upon Eu- 
 ropeans to believe it in this enlightened age ; but 
 the Chinefe have not the leaft doubt of its re- 
 ality, their fuperftition being in all refpecls equal 
 to that of the Portuguefe for the blefled Saint 
 Anthony of Padua. 
 
 After having feen every thing in this convent, 
 the refidence of at leaft three hundred bonzes, 
 we took leave of their chief who attended us as 
 far as the outer court. At a fmall diftance from 
 thence, we came to the ruins of the tower of 
 Lau-y-hong-thap y which is fuppofed to have ftood 
 fifteen hundred years. It is nothing more than a 
 mafs of building, of which the feven ftories ftill 
 exift ; but of which all the wooden-work, fuch 
 as galleries, balconies, projecting roofs and orna- 
 ments, which were probably of the fame kind as 
 thofe of Cau-ming-tfi, have been entirely deftroyed 
 or confumed by lightning. 
 
 This long period of time is no doubt the caufe 
 of the ftones being honey-combed all over ; there 
 are even places where large pieces are wanting, 
 which appear to have been broken off; but what 
 remains of this building is ftill fufficient to pre- 
 ferve its name and its remembrance for feveral 
 centuries to come. 
 
 Vol. II. Q The 
 
226 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 The origin of this tow.cr has been made the 
 fubjecl. ot a dramatic piece, which I faw reprc- 
 fented feveral times at Canton ; but the plot is 
 too complicated, and the ground-work too fa- 
 bulous, for me to feel the fmalleft inclination to 
 give an account of it, efpecially as it is not cal- 
 culated to pleafe Europeans. 
 
 I meafured the external part of the tower, and 
 found that one of the fides of the octagon is equal 
 to forty-two French feet, fo that its total circum- 
 ference muft be three hundred and thirty-fix. 
 Millions of bricks muft have been employed in 
 the cofiftruction of this building, the height of 
 which may be eflimated at a hundred and eighty 
 feet, according to what I mail fay hereafter of a 
 fimilar tower. 
 
 Going a confiderable way up a mountain at 
 fome diftance from the tower, we came to a pa- 
 vilion, under which we found a long and very 
 ancient infeription. From this elevation the 
 profpecr is frill more extenfive than from the 
 fummer-palace of which I have already fpoken. 
 Hence we could difcover the whole of the city, 
 which enabled us to judge of its form, of the ftyle 
 of its buildings, and of its immenfe extent. The 
 reader may therefore confidently rely upon all I 
 have faid upon the fubje6t. 
 
 As 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 227 
 
 As it was about three o'clock in the afternoon, 
 we refolved to put an end to our excurfion, and 
 to go on board our new veffels. Extremely well 
 pleafed with all that had been {hewn us, we 
 thanked our condu&ors, took leave of them, and 
 again got into our palanquins. 
 
 Near this fpot we pafTed through a very po- 
 pulous place, and afterwards through a valley 
 lying between two mountains fituated near the 
 fouth-weft angle of Hong-tcheou-fou. While going 
 along this piece of road, which is for the moft 
 part paved with hewn ftone, we met with a con- 
 vent and feveral habitations. 
 
 As foon as we came in fight of the fouth-wefl: 
 gate, the garrifon drew up under arms on ■both 
 (ides of the road, and founded their conchs while 
 we were paffing through the ranks. This garrifon 
 was compofed of feveral corps varioufly clothed 
 and armed ; fome with bows and arrows, the 
 others with mufkets. The latter have pikes, and 
 the former fwords and bucklers ; while others 
 carry cutlaffes at the end of long ftaves. Each 
 corps has alfo its particular colours, red, crimfon, 
 white, green, and blue. Both foldiers and officers 
 are well appointed, and make a very martial ap- 
 pearance. The foldiers all wear polilhed and 
 Q 2 mining 
 
228 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 lliining helmets. At each end of the line the 
 Ambafiador was faluted with three guns. 
 
 At four o'clock we reached the town of Tfak- 
 haiiy at the entrance of which were troops drawn 
 up like thofe I have juft mentioned. Here alfo 
 the Ambafiador was twice faluted. This place, 
 which is pretty large, contains a number of good 
 houfes, and a flender tower of feven ftories. 
 
 After leaving it we came to the refidence of 
 the Hon-jiou, or Cuftom-houfe, a handfome build- 
 ing of confiderable fize, at fome diftance from 
 which we perceived our veflels upon the river. 
 The intermediate ground between it and the cuf- 
 tom-houfe is unfound, and is covered with a kind 
 of mud or flime depofited by the water. It is 
 over this fpace that four-wheel carts, drawn by 
 buffaloes, carry every thing that is to be em- 
 barked. 
 
 Tfakhau is the place where all the veflels 
 bring up that are laden whh merchandize for 
 Hong-tcheou-fou, or intended to take on board what 
 is fent from that city. 
 
 In order to facilitate the paflage to our veflels, 
 &e Chinefe took all th« carriages, more than two 
 
 hundred 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 5« 229 
 
 hundred in number, and by ranging them in a 
 line one after another, made as it were two 
 bridges, by means of which happy invention 
 we were carried to the veflels, as well as our 
 baggage. 
 
 We found our new floating habitations much 
 fmaller than thofe we occupied before, fince they 
 confiiled of only one apartment; but in other 
 refpe&s they are tolerably commodious. As foon 
 as our baggage was put on board, we quitted that 
 difagreeable place Tfak-hau, with a hope of meet- 
 ing with others more worthy of obfervation. 
 
 At half a league thence, we approached fo 
 near the banks, that we might have gone on fhore 
 by a plank. In this part a convent ftands a con- 
 fiderable way up the fide of a mountain ; and 
 near the convent is a handfome o&agonal tower 
 of feven (lories. Defirous of examining the de- 
 tails of fuch a building, I landed, and took a 
 walk up the mountain's fide. One of the bonzes 
 came out to meet me, and ferved me- as a guide. 
 
 This convent, called Tfak-imn-hauy-faa tft^ is 
 inhabited by more than a hundred and fifty monks 
 or bonzes. The prefent Emperor has honoured 
 it fix times with his prefence, and has prefented 
 
 Q3 it 
 
2^0 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 it with feveral infcriptions engraved upon Hones. 
 The principal divinity of the temple is Sam-tfi- 
 yu-lauy J at. 
 
 Near the temple (lands the tower, which bears 
 the name of Loii-otw-pauthap. One of its eight 
 fides, meafured at the bafe, is twenty-eight feet, 
 which gives for the total amount two hundred 
 and twenty-four feet. On going in, I perceived 
 that the thicknefs of the wall of the lower ftory 
 was eleven feet and a half. At about ten feet 
 within this wall is a fecond ftru6rure, the wall of 
 which is about fix French feet thick. It contains 
 an octagonal apartment, with a vaulted roof fkil- 
 fully turned over it, in the form of a dome. It 
 is there that the divinity Ouang-ming-fau-tcheou is 
 adored. The intermediate fpace, which feparates 
 the two walls, or the kind of gallery they leave 
 between them, is alfo covered by a fpherical roof, 
 except at the part where the ftaircafe pafles 
 through it ; fb that the apartment is entirely con- 
 nected and united with the walls of the tower. 
 Thus they afford each other mutual fupport. 
 
 The fecond ftory, and thofe above it, are all 
 conftru&ed upon the fame principle, with no 
 other difference but a proportional diminution in 
 the thicknefs of the walls. The outer wall, for 
 
 inftance a 
 

 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 2JI 
 
 inftance, of the fourth ftory, -is not more than 
 feven feet and a half thick ; and that of the in- 
 ternal building, correfponding with it, only three 
 feet and a half. 
 
 Cmin-yam is adored on the fecond ftory, and 
 Tay-tji on the third, while the fourth is dedicated 
 to Tit-Jong-ouong. The two lad ftories contain no 
 idols, in confequence of a beam of fir, near two 
 feet in diameter, afcending from the fixth ftory 
 to the top of the roof. This beam which refts 
 upon a hewn ftone in the 'centre of the pavement 
 of the fixth ftory, ferves to fupport a metallic 
 ornament ending in a point above the roof, and 
 inferted at its lower end in the top of the beam, 
 which alfo exceeds the height of the roof. 
 
 The galleries placed without the walls of the 
 tower, as well as the projecting roofs, are works 
 adapted to it, and only fupported by pieces of 
 wood ; fo that when thofe galleries and pent- 
 houfes are deftroyed by time or accidents, the 
 tower itfelf remains not the lefs entire, as is 
 proved by that which we faw this morning, and 
 which I have already mentioned. 
 
 The point or fpire of call: metal is exactly of 
 the fame form as that which I defcribed on the 
 1 8th of this month. 
 
 Q 4 The 
 
23a voyage of the dutch 
 
 The height of the tower to the top of the 
 feventh ftory is meafured by a hundred and ninety 
 fteps, one hundred and feventy, being eight 
 inches, and the other twenty, eleven inches high, 
 making the total elevation about one hundred 
 and thirty-two feet, or reckoning to the top of the 
 roof one hundred and feventy. 
 
 The bonzes afTured me that this tower has 
 been built more than feven hundred years ; but 
 it appeared to me to be in too good prefervation 
 for a building of fuch antiquity, unlefs its outfide, 
 as well as the galleries be of more modern date. 
 
 From the defcription of this tower it is eafy 
 to conceive that a mafs of that thicknefs com- 
 pofed of very folid bricks, may ftand for ages with 
 Very little repair. 
 
 The antiquity of the tower erected in the city 
 of Utrecht in Holland, and called the Don, is 
 well known. It is true that it is built of free- 
 ftone, and not of bricks; but the latter when 
 well baked, and held together by a good cement, 
 do not yield in folidity to other materials, as is 
 fufficientlv proved by the duration of the build- 
 ings in which they are employed. I examined 
 the mafonry both within and without with the 
 
 utmoft 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 233 
 
 utmoft care, and I confefs that I could not dif- 
 cover the fmalleft mark of decay from top to 
 bottom : everv thins: looked the fame as in a 
 building perfectly new. 
 
 I was exceedingly happy to have an oppor- 
 tunity of viewing one of thefe buildings with 
 that fcrupulous attention which I was able to 
 pay to this. 
 
 After having drank a dim of tea in the great 
 hall, I took leave of the bonzes, and returned 
 highly fatisfied towards my floating habitation. 
 
 On coming to the water fide, I was witnefs to 
 a phenomenon which in the whole courfe of my 
 life I never faw before. As we are only at forty 
 // from the fea, the river partakes of the ebb and 
 flood of the ocean. As foon as the tide began to 
 make, the water ruihed fuddenly in, and rofe 
 with a great deal of agitation more than a foot 
 in two minutes. Care had been taken to re- 
 move the velfels from the fhore before the turn of 
 the tide, and to ftation them in places where 
 there is a confiderable depth of water, at a dis- 
 tance from one another, becaufe the rapidity of 
 the current is fuch as to expofe them to be 
 
 driven 
 
234 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 driven upon the rocks, or to be Hove in cafe of 
 their falling aboard of each other. 
 
 As we are now at the time of the neap-tides, 
 according to the nautical mode of fpeech, the 
 water rofe with little force ; but I was aftured, 
 and there is great probability of its being true, 
 that during the fpring tides the water rufhes in 
 with more violent impetuofity, and rifes to a 
 greater height, which renders the river parti- 
 cularly dangerous for (hipping, efpecially when 
 the wind blows from the eaftward. The fame 
 phenomenon takes place in the Ganges, where 
 it is called Bhaar. 
 
 During our journey from Hong-tcheou-fou hither 
 we have palled by at lead a dozen convents, an 
 inconteftible proof that in this part of the country 
 the monks muft lead a moft comfortable life. 
 
 26th. As our flay in the vicinity of Tfak-kau 
 is prolonged, the Ambaflador and the reft of his 
 fuite are jjone to take a walk to the convent 
 which I faw yefterday, and to examine it, as well 
 as the neighbouring mountains. Having already 
 enjoyed the charming profpect, I flayed at home 
 in order to commit to paper the obfervations F 
 had yefterday occafiou to make. 
 
 Experience 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 235 
 
 Experience proves to me that our prefent 
 vefTels, although not altogether incommodious, 
 are the word we have hitherto occupied. The 
 failors in going from one end to the other are 
 obliged to pafs through my apartment ; and 
 when their meals are preparing I am annoyed by 
 the (moke, and by the abominable fmell of the 
 oil or greafe with which they drefs their victuals. 
 I (hall accordingly feel lefs regret at quitting my 
 prefent floating lodgings, than when I left the 
 laft. Fortunately the weather continues to be 
 very fair, which renders our voyage far lels difc 
 agreeable than it would othervvife be. 
 
 27th. Although this day was fixed for our 
 departure, the Mandarin of the place was fo tardy 
 in delivering our provifions that it was two o'clock 
 in the afternoon before we were able to fet fail. 
 After being half an hour under way, we were 
 obliged to take in our fails, becaufe an elbow 
 made by the river rendered our courfe abfolutely 
 contrary to the direction of the wind. We were 
 therefore compelled to recur fpeedily to the track- 
 ing-line, which our prefent trackers do not handle 
 with fo much ikill as thofe who preceded them. 
 
 Each tracker has his own line, which is very 
 thin, but made of fome ftrong material, while all 
 
 the 
 
236 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 the veffels of the other provinces have a Tingle 
 large rope fixed to the maft, to which each 
 tracker fattens his own little cord. This gives 
 me occalion to reflect upon the little analogy that 
 exifts between the cuftoms of the inhabitants of 
 different provinces, fo that one can hardly fup- 
 pofe them to belong to the fame nation. There 
 is fcarcely a fwgle point in which they can be 
 faid to agree. Language, drefs, covering of the 
 head, veffels, form of adminiftration, agriculture, 
 every thing, in a word, differs in each province. 
 The language of the Mandarins is the only thing 
 that is alike throughout the Empire ; but from 
 one province to another there is fuch a change of 
 dialect, that our Canton fervants found it very 
 difficult to underftand the language of the other 
 parts of the country. Now if this diffonance is 
 fo perceptible in the feven provinces we have 
 travelled through, it is probable that it exifts in 
 all the others. The edifices, however, as far as 
 I was able to obferve, are all conftru&ed in the 
 fame way ; not only the temples and convents, 
 but even the private houfes. 
 
 We were furrounded at fome diftance with 
 plains immediately by the river fide, very low, 
 and fown with turnips, and interfperfed with or- 
 chards full of peach and plumb-trees, all in flower, 
 
 witr^ 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1 794 — 5. 237 
 
 with a mixture of bamboos. A little farther 
 were fruit-trees in frill greater quantity, and af- 
 fording a variety very pleafing to the eye. Where 
 the country became more mountainous, the cul- 
 tivation of corn iuperfeded that of every thing 
 elfe. 
 
 We kept along the eaftern fhore of the river, 
 which was very wide, without appearing to have- 
 any great depth of water. At five o'clock we 
 pafled by the village of Ce-au-chan, containing a 
 number of good-looking buildings, among which 
 are feveral diftilleries. 
 
 A quarter of an hour after we came to Keau- 
 fan-yen, occupying a very large fpace along the 
 eaft bank of the river. Here are feveral dock- 
 yards for the construction of junks and other 
 large veflels, and whole fhip-loads of oil, which 
 gives reafon to prefume that there are oil-mills 
 in this place. On the fide of the river, which 
 here takes a fouth-eaft. direction, the town is 
 almoft entirely inclofed by walls of hewn ftone. 
 
 After pafiing Keau-fan-yen, the river takes a 
 
 great turn to the weft-fouth-weft, which enabled 
 
 us to fet our fails again, and by their means to 
 
 accelerate our progrefs. Our ve^Tels being of 
 
 1 light 
 
238 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 light conftruciion, fail very faft. We have no 
 need to ftop in order to eat together, as our vefTels 
 can join each other without ceafing to advance, 
 the width of the river admitting of our failing 
 abreaft. At nine o'clock, however, we caft 
 anchor, in order that our failors might reft till 
 to-morrow morning. 
 
 At break of day the tracking-line was again 
 brought into play, becaufe the wind which had 
 got round to the fourth-weft^ was consequently 
 become unfavourable to our progrefs. 
 
 The country, on both fides of the river, which 
 here grew a little narrower, was flat, and the foil 
 rich and of a marly nature. The raoft elevated 
 fpots were covered with corn of a promifing ap- 
 pearance, the others were under turnips. We 
 afterwards faw a great number of fruit-trees,, 
 among which the peach was eafily diftingui (liable 
 by its bloiToms. The mountains continued to 
 mew themfelves at fome diftance all round us, 
 but they were rocky and difcovered no iigns of 
 vegetation, except a little bruili-wood j and even 
 that was hardly perceptible. 
 
 At fix o'clock we patted by the village of Fou-; 
 yang, a well built place, and fo agreeably (haded, 
 
 that 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — $> %$<) 
 
 that it appeared as if it were buried among the 
 trees. It (lands at a little diftance from the river. 
 
 At feven o'clock we were oppofite an orchard 
 which embellifhed our profpect during the half 
 hour we were pafiing along it. Under the trees 
 was barley already in the ear, which will no doubt 
 be ripe before the trees, by refuming the green 
 garb of fummer, can intercept the genial in- 
 fluence of the fun. This fact ferves alfo to prove 
 that the farmers in this country know how to 
 manage every thing with intelligence and eco- 
 nomy. 
 
 At half pad feven we had no longer plains on 
 the north fide of the river, which had taken a 
 turn to the fouth, and now ran clofe to the foot 
 of the mountains. We here paffed up a narrow 
 channel fituated to the weftward, and an hour 
 afterwards found the two branches join again in 
 one, after having formed an ifland of moderate 
 fize. This ifland is of considerable elevation, and 
 although the furface is flat, and the foil of a fat 
 and un&uous nature, is entirely planted with mul- 
 berry-trees, between which barley has been (own. 
 
 At three quarters paft eight we had the village 
 t)f Tchi-long-chan to the north of us, a fmall place, 
 but containing fome good brick houfes. 
 
 At 
 
24O VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At the foot of the mountains is a pretty large 
 plain, extending to the water fide, and planted as 
 well as the other fide of the river with mulberry- 
 trees, which makes it probable that the inha- 
 bitants employ themfelves in the manufactory of 
 raw filk. 
 
 In one of the angles of the valley which I have 
 juft mentioned, and upon the bank of the river, is 
 a little fquare tower of feven ftories, built of hewn 
 done. 
 
 At ten o'clock we pafled by a common hexa- 
 gonal tower, alfo of feven ftories high. It is 
 fituated upon the faliant angle of a mountain, to 
 the north-weft, and at no great diftance from the 
 water-fide. Its roof has fallen in, and its orna- 
 ments of caft metal are bent down on one fide. 
 The extremity of the latter is, however, ftill higher 
 than the top of the laft ftory. 
 
 Half an hour afterwards we doubled the flank 
 of a mountain fkirted with fteep rocks, and arrived 
 off the city of Fu-yan-chen, where we flopped to 
 take on board provifions. 
 
 That city, which is of moderate iize, appear 
 to contain fome very well-built houfes. It is 
 
 fituated 
 
1MB ASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 24T 
 
 fituated upon the north bank of the river, which 
 wafties its walls. They are built of hewn ftone, 
 and pafs over mountains while following all the 
 windings of the city. A part of the inhabitants 
 are employed in the manufactory of white Nam- 
 kings. 
 
 In the courfe of our navigation I obferved that 
 a number of ftreams branch off from the river to 
 the north-eaft. Between them are feveral flat 
 iflands, the foil of which is of an argillaceous 
 nature. The river itfelf molt frequently takes a 
 fouth-weft direction, following that of two chains 
 of high mountains which feem to approach each 
 other in proportion as we advance. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we quitted the city of Fu- 
 yan-cheu, warned on one fide, as I have already 
 faid, by a large weftern branch of the river, over 
 which is a noble ftone bridge confifting of three 
 equal arches. In the piers or uprights of this 
 bridge are two other fmall arches, in the form of 
 a gate, meant to give a freer paffage to the water 
 when it rifes to that height. I gave an account 
 of a fimilar bridge on the 2 1 ft of February j and 
 thefe are the only two I have met With con- 
 structed in that way. 
 
 Vol. II, R See* 
 
54* VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 Seen at fome diftance in the fouth-weft, the 
 city makes a very fplendid appearance. Behind 
 it rife mountains of remarkable height, and the 
 houfes coated with white plafter, prefent a very 
 attractive object to the eye. At the eaft angle, 
 and within the walls (lands a very high rock, 
 the fides and fummit of which are covered 
 with houfes and orchards, while the tower I have 
 already mentioned, ftands in a ftill more com- 
 manding fituation. Few cities indeed can boafl 
 of a profpe£t furpafling that of which I am now 
 fpeaking. 
 
 In the afternoon the wind favoured us by com- 
 ing round to the northward. We accordingly 
 hoifted our fails, and by its afliftance made a rapid 
 progrefs to the fouth. We had no longer any 
 level ground to the eaftward, the mountains com- 
 ing clofe down to the water-fide. 
 
 At three o'clock we found ourfelves oppofite 
 the village of Tan-tcha-coo, a fmall, but very pretty 
 place, confifting of brick-built houfes, and occu- 
 pying a very advantageous fituation at the foot 
 of the mountain, among an infinite number of 
 trees of all kinds, and ftanding at fome diftance 
 from the weftern bank of the river. 
 
 4. Sona 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 5. 243 
 
 Soon after we quitted this village, the flat 
 country was again fucceeded by mountains, which 
 did not begin to remove to a greater diftance, till 
 four o'clock, when they gave place in their turn 
 to an exteniive plain alfo on the weftern tide of 
 the river* 
 
 At five o'clock we came to Chan-fau long, 
 another village of tolerable appearance, alfo built 
 upon the weftern bank. Behind the village is a 
 valley of fome depth, between two mountains, 
 entirely covered with fruit and foreft trees. Up- 
 on a fudden the river conliderably increafed its 
 width, making, when it came near the entrance 
 of this valley, an elbow to the weltward, which 
 prevented its further approach. 
 
 Oppofite this village, on the eaftern fide of the 
 river, is another, very pleafantly lituated in the 
 midft of trees. It contains a large temple kept 
 in very good order, and a number of good houfes 
 built of brick. The name of this village is Lion- 
 tJia-pQit. 
 
 Further on to the weflward, we alfo patted a 
 very pretty hamlet, fituated at the foot of the 
 mountains ; it is called Sam-chau y and is full of 
 
 good houfes. 
 
 Rj At 
 
&44 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At fix o'clock we reached the village of Ciu~ 
 tien, {landing in a valley in the midfl of trees ; 
 and at feven we flopped to take our ufual repaft 
 near a guard-houfe and a triumphal arch of flone, 
 erecled on an elevated fpot by the river-fide. 
 Our meal being over, we continued under way 
 till ten o'clock, when we flopped again, in order 
 that our people might have a good night's reft. 
 
 29th. Setting off at the dawn of day, we 
 arrived at half pail five abreail of the village 
 of Fong-ce-quan, fituated to the eaflward. Here 
 the river divides into two branches. We took 
 the eaftern one, which in about a quarter of an 
 hour brought us to the village ,of Tong-tchou, a 
 place very thickly interfperfed with trees. 
 
 A little after fix we had to the eaflward the 
 village of Oung-lfan, pleafantly feated on the fide 
 of the river, the two branches of which meet 
 here, and continue to flow in a fingle bed. 
 
 Before feven o'clock we had paffed by the two 
 villages of Tay-tchi and Tfytchi, flanding on the 
 two oppofite fides of the water. The former is 
 a largje and well-built place, upon the river-fide, 
 the bank of which is in that part of confiderable 
 elevation. The latter, which is of lefs extent, 
 
 flands 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — $. £4$ 
 
 ftands under the fhade of fome old trees of pro* 
 digious lize. 
 
 At a quarter paft feven we reached Tay-Jiou, a 
 Village fituated to the eaftward. The intervals 
 left between its handfome houfes are full of fruit 
 and foreft-trees, with which the whitenefs of 
 their coal of plaifter forms a very charming con- 
 trail. 
 
 In this part, the river is of little depth, and its 
 bottom is full of (tones. The country on both 
 fides changes its appearance from time to time. 
 Sometimes it is ftony and rocky, but more fre- 
 quently level. In general the ground is well 
 cultivated, part being under corn, and part laid 
 out in orchards in which fruit and other trees are 
 intermixed. From this flight Iketch it will be 
 eafy to conceive how agreeable muft be that de- 
 lightfully varied profpe£t, the beauty of which is 
 much inhanced by the mountains in the back 
 ground. 
 
 At three quarters pail feven we had to the 
 eaftward the hamlet of Tfy-pou> Handing upon a 
 hill by the river-fide. To the weft ward is the 
 village of Tiou-li-tchen, which is hardly to be dif- 
 ^cerned amid the furrounding trees. 
 
 R3 At 
 
246 
 
 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At eight o'clock we pafled by a beautiful cas- 
 cade, which after falling over rocks about ei^ht 
 feet high, mingles its ftream, which falls from the 
 mountains with the water of the river. A little 
 further on, but in the middle of the river, is a 
 ledge of rocks riling three feet above its furface. 
 
 A quarter of an hour afterwards we were 
 abreaft of the village of Pay-pott, fituated on a 
 rifing ground upon the eaftern bank, with a large 
 pagoda of handfome appearance (landing near 
 it. At half pall eight we had too great brick- 
 kilns to the eaft ; and to the weft the little village 
 of Ou-nie-khan, which although fmall, looks well 
 on the outfide. Soon after we reached another 
 village larger than the laft, called Tcheou-tou-fong. 
 There, in one of the meadows that fkirt both 
 fides of the river, was a great number of horned 
 cattle. 
 
 At the fame place the river divides in two 
 branches. We took the weftern one, and fleered 
 to the fouth-weft. 
 
 At half paft nine we pafTed by a pagoda called 
 Kiou-te-jong, fituated at the angle of a mountain 
 which Hands by the river-fide. The outfide is in 
 good prefervation ; the road leading up to it is 
 
 prettily 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794-^j; !${}. 
 
 prettily planted with trees, and the pagoda itfelf 
 is furrounded with pines. Between this moun- 
 tain and one that follows it is a little valley en- 
 tirely full of orchards and places planted with 
 fo much fymmetry, that they afford a view a$ 
 pleafing as that of a garden. 
 
 A little before ten we came to the city of 
 Tong-fa-chen, (landing by the water-fide in a large 
 plain terminated by two mountains. It is a pretty 
 large place, well built with brick houfes, coaled 
 over with plafter, and makes altogether a very 
 lively and handfome appearance. At its north- 
 eaft angle is a rock of rather remarkable form, 
 the. fummit of which is covered with cedars and 
 other ever-green trees. In the midft of them 
 itands a pagoda, called Tong-cking-chmi y and a 
 convent occupied by priefts or monks who marry, 
 but do riot (have their beards. The Chinefe call 
 them Tkaucie. The temple, which is dedicated 
 to Thou-ti, has a (lender hexagonal tower of fix 
 (lories (landing cloft by it. From top to bottom 
 it bears the marks of lightening, by which it ap- 
 pears to have been very much damaged. The 
 two mountains attract the eye of the traveller to 
 the fame fide, while the beautiful erfecl: of the 
 trees (landing before the city in great number 
 
 R 4 upoi) 
 
448 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCI* 
 
 upon the eaftern bank of the river is not lefs 
 worthy of his attention. 
 
 As foon as we had advanced a little diftance 
 beyond that city, our conductor flood over to 
 the weftern bank, where we flopped abreaft of 
 a place prepared to receive him. Our veflels 
 followed him, and we remained there till a 
 quarter paft three in the afternoon. In the 
 mean time refrdhments and provifions were put 
 on board. Then fetting off again, we had a 
 quarter of an hour afterwards, to the eaftward 
 X)( us, a hamlet called Ou-ouaa, fmall, it is true, 
 but exhibiting fome handfome houfes ftanding 
 among trees, remarkable for the beauty of their 
 foliage and the lively colours of their bloffoms, 
 Fields of growing corn furround this place. 
 
 During the whole day the eaflern fide kept our 
 attention alive by conftantly reproducing all the 
 beauties of the mofl charming landfcape. The 
 inhabitants of thefe places muft live in the enjoy- 
 ment of eafy circumftances, fince we fcarcely 
 fee a fmgle habitation ill fuited to a view em- 
 bellifhed by profperity. 
 
 At half paft four we had a hamlet called 
 Jsfaym-thou to the e/ J <: of us, with a guard-houfe 
 
 ftanding 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794.—5. 7:^$ 
 
 {landing near it. This hamlet is built along the 
 banks of the river, and confifts of neat houfes, 
 with thick plantations of trees behind them. 
 
 The river, by its fhallownefs, had already di- 
 minifhed our fpeed, but at half pall: five it fud- 
 denly contracted to one half of its width, without 
 gaining any increafe of depth. It was then that 
 I began to perceive evident marks of a current, 
 the river having before appeared almoft ftagnant, 
 probably becaufe we are at prefent in the drieft 
 feafon of the year, and becaufe its wide bed is 
 only covered by a thin meet of water* 
 
 Stopping at fix o'clock to take our ufual 
 repaft, we fet off as foon as it was over, and after 
 having navigated till nine we anchored for the 
 night, in order to give our failors time to recover 
 from their fatigue. The evening and the begin- 
 ning of the night were rainy. 
 
 30th. The break of day was the fignal for 
 our departure. We proceeded as far as a place 
 where the river becomes as it were a pafs 
 between two chains of high mountains. Al- 
 though it had even acquired a tolerable width, it 
 afforded no navigable channel except m the 
 middle, that is to fay, that there fcarcely re- 
 mained 
 
*5<> VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 rnained a foot of water under our vefTels. In 
 the reft of its bed there was not fo much as 
 twelve inches over a bottom of large ftones. We 
 advanced very flowly becaufe our veiTels fre- 
 quently got aground. 
 
 At fun-rife we came to a place where we 
 were in a manner fhut in between mountains, 
 which, although of a rocky nature, are never- 
 thelefs covered with grafs and brufh wood. 
 They are alfo thinly interfperfed with trees, fome 
 of which grow even upon their fummits, though 
 the greater part are upon their lower extremity. 
 But the intervals and little vallies between the 
 mountains are filled with a profulion of trees 
 which form woods and groves of very pleafant 
 appearance. 
 
 At half pall fix we came to the firft defleclion 
 m this pafs. It is at a place where there is a 
 great opening or ilfue from between the moun- 
 tains extending to the eaftward. In this in- 
 terval, and upon the fide of the mountain, ftands 
 a hamlet called Lou-ci, with a guard-houfe or 
 military poll in its vicinity. This hamlet is well 
 built of brick, and its houfes, fcattered at a 
 diltance from each other, extend as far as the 
 middle of the gorge. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 1^1 
 
 At feven o'oclock we paflcd by an imperial 
 pagoda of great antiquity. It is fmall, but in 
 front of it (land three triumphal arches of (tone, 
 and more than a dozen monuments, of ftone 
 alfo, and loaded with infcriptions. Upon the 
 fummit of the mountains, in the part exactly op- 
 polite to this pagoda, which is called Kiouen-tay 9 
 are two bare rocks, with a large interval between 
 them. Upon the tabular furface of the top of 
 thefe rocks ftand two pavilions, of which the 
 very roofs are conftrucled of hewn ftones, that 
 they may the better defy the hand of time. Ac- 
 cording to every indication they have withftood 
 it for centuries. 
 
 In proportion as we advanced towards the 
 fouth, the verdure that we perceived upon the 
 mountains loft its uniformitv, the bright tints of 
 a variety of flowers appearing defirous of out- 
 rivalling the green. One of the number was 
 particularly beautiful. It was growing upon a 
 fort of plant, which entwines upon hoops about 
 a foot high, arranged on purpofe, and forms a 
 fort of ball, covered over entirely with flowers as 
 white as fnow. 
 
 At eight o'clock we were abreafl. of a hamlet 
 called Lbig-chu-y, having a guard-houfe for its 
 
 protection. 
 
1$2. VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 protection. Ling-chi-y is fituated at the entrance 
 of a deep glen, and at the point of an angle 
 made by the river. It is overshadowed by a 
 great number of trees, while little plots of land, 
 fow r n with corn and turnips in front of it, give it 
 a lively appearance, which is increafed by peach 
 and plumb trees, whofe flowers are an elegant 
 ornament to this rural profpett. 
 
 Oppofite Ling-chu-y is another glen or valley, 
 exa£tly fimilar to the former, with three or four 
 houfes Handing in it in a delightful fituation. 
 
 At nine o'clock we palled by a village called 
 Paniji-haa> a place of pleafing appearance, and 
 built of brick. It Hands to the fouth-eaft and 
 upon the mountains, while in a gorge which they 
 leave between them at the foot of the village, is 
 a flream of water and a number of trees. 
 
 At half pad ten we had the village of Tfik- 
 kctou to the fouth-eatt, fituated alfo in a gorge 
 upon the declivity of the mountains, and over- 
 hung by very lofty trees. At eleven we were off 
 PaJJ'a-fie, much refembling Tfik-kiou, and (landing 
 in a iimiiar lituation. 
 
 At 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 253 
 
 At this period of our voyage we again met 
 with fifhermen training up birds to fifh for them, 
 in the way I have defcribed on the 26th of 
 November. 
 
 At noon we at length came to the end of the 
 pafs or narrow channel-, which, on account of 
 its length, is called Sat-chaji-li-long, or the ferpent 
 of feventy //. 
 
 Beyond this pafs the mountains on the eafl: 
 fide retire to a diftance, and are fucceeded by 
 low plains extending along the river fide. When 
 there we were occupied more than an hour and 
 a half in ftruggling againft the force of the 
 ftream, in a fpace of two or three //, where the 
 river was fo mallow that we feveral times touched 
 the ground, 
 
 At half paft one we reached a navigable part. 
 The river was become more narrow than before, 
 but it had alfo acquired a rapidity of ftream, 
 which, be it faid en pajfant , rendered the work of 
 the trackers more laborious, fince they were ob- 
 liged to exert themfelves to prevent the current 
 from turning the veffels out of their direction. 
 The eaftern bank of the river was broad and 
 gravelly, and the ground beyond it rugged and 
 
 uneven. 
 
$54 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 uneven. All the parts fufceptible of cultivation 
 w.ere fown with corn and turnips. The latter, 
 which occupied the greater part of the land, 
 were rendered very grateful to the eye by the 
 brilliant yellow of the blofToms with which they 
 were covered. 
 
 At three o'clock we had to the fouth-eaft of 
 us a village called Chatt-li-fioUy fituated upon a 
 riling ground by the river-fide, and containing a 
 number of well-built brick houfes. Half an 
 hour after we came to another place, on the 
 north-eaft fide of which a temporary triumphal 
 arch was erected, and about fifty foldiers were 
 drawn up under arms. The Ambaffador was 
 faluted with three guns, and military mufic 
 played during our palfage. A little farther on 
 we had upon one fide of us an hexagonal tower 
 «f the ufual form, fituated upon the fummit of a 
 high mountain. 
 
 At a quarter paft four we found ourfelves 
 abreaft of the city of Yen-cheou-fou, where we 
 ftopped, in order to take frefh provifions on board. 
 Two of the party availed themfelves of this op- 
 portunity to take a walk in the city, in regard to 
 which I have to obfcrve, that permiflions of this 
 
 kind 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 2$$ 
 
 kind were every where granted us. The report 
 they made of it was as follows : 
 
 The city is pretty large and well built j its 
 ureets are but indifferently paved, but contain 
 handfome (hops. It is fituated in a great valley, 
 entirely furrounded by mountains; the river, 
 which here divides into two branches, running 
 along its weftern fide. Its walls in feveral places 
 pafs over the lefs lofty parts of the mountains. 
 No place contains triumphal arches in greater 
 number, fince upwards of twenty were counted 
 in only two ftreets. Thefe indications of the 
 abode of perfons worthy of remembrance, mingles 
 a fentiment of veneration with the fight of the 
 place, to which they have given a juft celebrity. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the city ftands art 
 Imperial pavilion. It is hexagonal, ancient, and 
 of a handfome appearance, with a triple roof 
 overfhadowed by tall trees, but a want of repair 
 begins to produce in it marks of decay. 
 
 Exactly in front of the city, upon a high hill 
 planted with evergreen trees, fuch as pines* 
 cedars, and cypreffes, is a lofty hexagonal tower 
 of feven ftories, covered with plafter, and fimilar 
 to another of which I have already fpoken. 
 
 Near 
 
2$6 VOYACE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Near to the one now in queftion is a convent 
 and a large temple, ftanding a'fo in the fhade of 
 trees. With what delight does the eye contem- 
 plate this noble profpect ! My telefcope enabled 
 me to difcern at the fide of this tower, and at 
 the foot of the mountain, another convent, which 
 js almoft entirely concealed by trees. 
 
 At fix o'clock we proceeded on our journey. 
 We took the fouthern branch of the river, 
 whence we had a full view of the city, which 
 affords a very pleafmg profpect. At feven we 
 made a halt to fup, and after another hour's na~ 
 vigation flopped for the reft of the night. 
 
 . As foon as we came between the high moun- 
 tains the river took a direction entirely weft ward. 
 
 31ft. We got under way again at five o'clock 
 in the morning. The river was nearly of the 
 fame width as yefterday, and we had likewife 
 high mountains on each fide ot us. There 
 was, however, a greater diftance between them 
 and the river, fince there was always low land 
 on one of the two fides of the latter, fo that 
 when the mountains approached one bank the 
 other was conftantly fkirted by a plain, in which 
 every little portion of ground fufceptible of 
 
 culture 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. Iff 
 
 culture was under corn, even to the very accli- 
 vity of the mountain, where fome part of the 
 Hope was cut into terraces one above another, 
 which produced a very pleafing effect. 
 
 At fix o'clock we paffed the village TcJmp- 
 fiiou, a pretty large place, containing fome well- 
 built brick houfes. It Hands fouth of the river, 
 in a fpacious plain, over which trees of great age 
 and fize throw a refrefliing (hade. , We had this 
 day thunder, accompanied by a little rain, but 
 neither were of long duration. 
 
 I had occafion to obferve that in this river the 
 water does not run with equal rapidity ; in fome 
 places the ftream is of remarkable ftrength, and 
 in others it is fcarcely perceptible.. I found it 
 impoflible to divine the reafon of this, becaufe 
 the width and the depth of the river remained 
 the fame although thefe differences took place. 
 
 r 3ift. At half part feven we paffed by a hamlet 
 called Tban-na, containing feveral brick houfes. 
 It is fituated to the fouth, at the foot of the 
 mountain, and full of trees. The lower part of 
 the hills is mod frequently planted with pines 
 and other large trees, while their fummits are 
 frequently covered with trees of a different kind. 
 Vol. II. S Timber 
 
»$$ VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 Timber for building and fire-wood are one of the 
 principal productions of this province, where the 
 trees grew with great luxuriancy, particularly in 
 the weitern parts. 
 
 At half paft eight we reached Tay-ang, fituated 
 to the north-weft of the river. * This place, 
 which is pretty extenfive, confifts of brick houfes 
 coated over with plafter. 
 
 If we may judgeby a great number of piles 
 of wood, it would appear that the inhabitants of 
 this town, as well as thofe of mod of the places 
 by which we have paffed for the laft two days, 
 carry on a trade in fire-wood and faggots, which 
 are conveyed to other places by means of the 
 river. The high grounds and mountains here 
 afford an immenfe quantity. Almoft oppofite 
 Toy-fang, upon the other bank, a number of 
 trees, intermixed with brick houfes, compofe a 
 very pretty hamlet. 
 
 After having gone a little further down the 
 river we perceived at a fmall diftance below the 
 fummit of a very lofty mountain, a bare perpen- 
 dicular rock of fo dazzling a white that itfeemed 
 to be covered with plafter, but on the fides 
 feveral blackifh ftripes were diftinguithable, no 
 
 doubt 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— 5. Z$9 
 
 doubt occafioned by the running down of the 
 rain. It has all the appearance of a mafs of 
 pure marble. 
 
 At nine o'clock the thunder returned with 
 greater violence, and was accompanied by a 
 great deal of rain, which obliged us to flop till 
 the ftorm difperfed. I obferved at this moment 
 that the water had no perceptible motion, i 
 purpofcly threw feveral fmall pieces of light 
 wpod out of the veffel, but neither this means, 
 nor the obfervation of other floating bodies, gave 
 me the leaft reafon to fuppofe that there was 
 any ftream. 
 
 The fun having refumed its fplendour, in half 
 an hour we alfo refumed our journey, palling to 
 the fouth-eaft of the hamlet called Maa-tcha-bau^ 
 which is in the neighbourhood of a guard-houfe 
 or military poft. Its well-built houfes ftand 
 partly by the river-fide, while others extend as 
 far as the bottom of a fmall fliady glen or valley. 
 
 At a quarter paft ten we came to a part of 
 the river where three quarters of its width were 
 filled with piles driven down to the edge, or left 
 very little above the. furface of the water, which 
 here ran with conliderable rapidity. 
 
 S2 At 
 
260 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 At noon we were abreaft of a village called 
 Chang-han, fituated to the weft of the river, and 
 built entirely of brick. 
 
 A little further on the mountains to the eaft- 
 ward began to retire to a great cjift ance > an d 
 were fucceeded by large level fpots. The river 
 being very mallow in feveral places, rendered 
 our navigation exceedingly difficult. 
 
 At half paft one we found ourfelves abreaft of 
 the village named Tkong-fou-tfa, and at two 
 o'clock abreait of Tching-co-laa. Both thefe 
 places, fituated to the eaftward of the river, are 
 pretty large and well built of brick. Facing 
 the latter frauds the village of Oaing-hou fhaa, 
 upon the weft lide of the river. The mountains 
 grew more remote before we came to this place, 
 fo that when we arrived there we had on both 
 fides a great extent of plain, divided into culti- 
 vated fields and embellifhed with young trees, 
 which continually afforded views as rich as it 
 would be poflible to meet with in Europe. In 
 the afternoon we again had thunder accompa» 
 nied with rain, which lafted till five o'clock. 
 
 It was not more than three when we arrived 
 at a part of the river where it ran at the rate of 
 
 at 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 1&1 
 
 at leaft fix miles an hour. So that, notwith- 
 standing the united effect of the tracking line, of 
 our fails, and of the poles with which our failors 
 pufhed us on, it was with the greateft difficulty 
 we could ftem the ftream. We at length fuc- 
 ceeded in overcoming this obflacle. Such a 
 difference in the movement of this river furprifed 
 me much, and nobody was able to clear up this 
 myftery, which my own perfonal knowledge was 
 altogether unable to develope. 
 
 At four o'clock, having got pad the Strength 
 of the ftream, and the wind being fair, we failed 
 along at a great rate. 
 
 Soon after w r e w r ere abreaft of a lofty and 
 handfome tower of feven ftories, fituated to the 
 eaftward, upon a high hill. Not far from thence 
 we paffed by a village called Tchau-fon'thaan, a 
 very extenfive place, Handing in the midft of 
 trees on the eaftern more. Almoit all the houfes 
 are of brick, and covered over with plafter, 
 forming, with the mountains behind them, a very 
 beautiful profpecr. 
 
 Oppofite, on the weftern more, is a large rock 
 of a round form, confifting of a fingle block. In 
 front of this mafs ftands a pagoda, and at a little 
 
 S 3 diftance, 
 
262 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 diftance, but within it, a handfome village named 
 Kieou-tchen, runs a good way inland. In this 
 part the river had formed a large flat bank or 
 ifland of pebbles, on each fide of which it was 
 navigable. 
 
 At half pail four we paffed through a large 
 village called Tcha-on-vou, the river dividing it 
 into two parts, which are well built and full of 
 trees. 
 
 At five o'clock we had to the eailward of Hou- 
 Jiou, another handfome village, and a quarter of 
 an hour after to the weftward of Nipou, Handing 
 upon a fmall eminence by the water-fide. Nijiou, 
 which is a pretty large placej has in a line with 
 it, towards the plain, a village remarkable for its 
 beauty, and ftill further embelliihed by very fine 
 fields of corn. A great number of veflels lining 
 the fhore from one end of Nipou to the other, 
 announce it to be a commercial place. 
 
 At about two hundred toifes fouth of Nipou, 
 upon the fide of a hill, ftands a pretty village 
 called Tfay-Jiou, and in the intermediate fpace is 
 a handfome country-houfe feated upon the bank 
 of the river. On the eaft more of the latter is 
 
 alfo 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794— 5. 263 
 
 alfo feen the extenfive village of Tong-pou, Hand- 
 ing in the midft of trees. 
 
 At fun-fet we pafied by a magnificent villa, 
 frtuated to the eaftward, belonging to a very rich 
 man. It is compofed of feveral handfome build- 
 ings covered with plafter, the whitenefs of which 
 is in a manner increafed by a black border. 
 One of thefe buildings is three ftories high, and in 
 each of the two upper ftories are four windows 
 looking towards the river, a thing feldom feen 
 in China, where the outride of the houfes confifts 
 only of dead walls, and where the apartnents 
 receive their light from the interior by means of 
 court-yards. The vicinity of this habitation to 
 the water, the moderate elevation of its lite, 
 the fhade of the trees that furround it — every 
 thing, in fhort, concurs to make it a delightful 
 abode. 
 
 At feven o'clock we came to a village called 
 Tc/iie-pou, a pretty large place on the weftern 
 tide of the river. Half an hour after we reached 
 the city of Long-ki-chen, where we flopped to 
 take our repaft, while provifions were putting on 
 board for the next day. This city, which is of 
 confiderable extent, enjoys the reputation of 
 producing the beft hams in the whole Chinefe 
 S 4 * Empire. 
 
264 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Empire. I bought feveral of them, of which, 
 the outfide at leaft does not detract from their 
 character. 
 
 In the courfe of the day I perceived feveral 
 head of oxen feeding in different places, whence 
 it appears that the inhabitants of thefe parts are 
 not entirely deftitute of cattle. 
 
 We palTed the night at Lon-ki-chen. 
 
 April 1 ft. At day-break we quitted the city, 
 which at fome diftance makes by no means a. 
 defpicable appearance. It is fituated at the foot 
 of a mountain, upon the fide of which alfo feveral 
 of the houfes are built, and occupies an angle 
 that the river makes with a branch falling into 
 it from the fouth-eaft. At the fouth end of the 
 city is an old and lofty tower, llanding upon a 
 hill, and ftill exhibiting in its feven {lories marks 
 of its former beauty, although at prefent it can 
 be confidered as little better than a heap of 
 ruins. The rain which began at night did not 
 ceafe with the appearance of day. 
 
 At half a league to the weftward of Lan-ki- 
 then is an infulated mountain of a long and 
 narrow form, with a river running at the foot of 
 
 it ; 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 265 
 
 it ; all the circumjacent country is flat and under 
 corn. The mountainous parts are at a greater 
 diftance. At the weftern end of this infulated 
 mountain {lands the village of You-ouing-chan, a 
 handfome and extenfive place, containing none 
 but brick houfes, which furpafs in beauty thofe 
 of the city. We have juft left a city that would 
 make an equally bad figure if compared to the 
 common run of the villages we met with yef- 
 terday. 
 
 At half paft fix we had a village called Tcheou- 
 ping-pou to the eaft of us, and on the oppofite 
 fide Tchaii-ming-ckau, the outfide of both befpeak^ 
 ing a fort of opulence. Shortly after we faw alfo 
 to the vveftward, but at fome diftance from the 
 river, a pretty village called Tfy-ming-chan, fur- 
 rounded by arable land and interfperfed with 
 trees. 
 
 At a quarter paft feven we patted by a place 
 named Nam-tcheou-ping-pou, lituated to the eaft-, 
 ward on an eminence by the water fide. Several 
 of its houfes, which are large and even two 
 (lories high, give it a very handfome appearance. 
 
 In the province of Tche-kiang, where we now 
 are, all the arable land is regularly fown in 
 
 fquares, 
 
266 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Iquares, like a draught-board, feveral grains of 
 corn being put into each hole. This arrange- 
 ment renders the afpe£t. of the fields very pleafing, 
 efpecially now that the corn is a foot high, and 
 exhibits the moft proraifing marks of an abun- 
 dant crop. 
 
 Thus do the Chinefe prove, in every part of 
 the Empire, that they are no way inferior to the 
 Europeans in the art of agriculture, and they 
 liave at the fame time the advantage of being 
 able to boaft that they carried that art to the 
 perfection at which it is now arrived, whole cen- 
 turies ago, while it is only within thefe few 
 years that any nation among us has thought of 
 improving ancient methods, and even that with 
 little fuccef™, becaufe the farmers, Haves to habit 
 and to the example of their forefathers, adhere 
 with obftinacy to the old routine. In vain is it 
 demonftrated to them that certain changes are 
 advantageous, either in the practice of agricul- 
 ture or in the treatment of cattle. This is a 
 thing of which they cannot be perfuaded. 
 
 This reminds me of a facl relating to myfelf, 
 which I requeft the Reader will permit me to 
 narrate : 
 
 Some 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794— 5. 26/ 
 
 Some years have elapfed fince at my houfe 
 called De Haav, fituated in the Province of 
 Guelderland, in the United Provinces, the bu- 
 finefs of agriculture and rural economy was car- 
 ried on by men in my fervice who executed my 
 plans under my own direction. All my neigh- 
 bours remarked and even confefled that my 
 method of managing cattle was fuperior to 
 theirs, fince my cows were in as good condition, 
 and gave as much milk in the winter as the 
 fummer. To thefe evident proofs 1 added an- 
 other, it was, thai my profits being increafed, 
 covered all the expences occafioned by the new 
 fvftem, and yet, notwithftanding fo many argu- 
 ments, and the effect generally expe^ed from 
 the impulfe of felf intereft, no one could per- 
 fuade himfclf to follow my example. 
 
 Eefore eight o'clock we found ourfelves abreaft 
 o£ihe village of Kiou-ming-chan, which ltands at a 
 fmall diftance from the wcftern bank of the 
 river, and which appears to be a very neat town. 
 The plains are lefs thickly planted with trees 
 than yefterday. 
 
 At nine o'clock we parTed by the village of 
 Tcheou-feo-oUy fituated like the former with re- 
 fpect to the river, and making a good appear* 
 
 ance. 
 
268 voyage of the dutch 
 
 ance. At a quarter paft nine we had a village 
 called Fi-tcho-o-oung to the eaftward, and Tau- 
 tchi-hong on the oppofite fide. Both of them 
 pretty large and well-built places. 
 
 A quarter of an hour after the long village of 
 Qn-tcha-u was to the weft of us. It is divided 
 Into feveral portions along-fide of the river, and 
 contains none but good brick houfes. 
 
 At ten o'clock we had to the eaft of us, and 
 at a little diftance from the bank, Lau-pon, a 
 large and handfome place, the beauty of which 
 is much increafed by a great number of trees. 
 There is a military poft clofe to the water-fide. 
 
 Shortly after, the river dividing into two 
 branches forms an ifland of considerable ele- 
 vation, which is cultivated in feveral parts, and 
 at the end of which we did not find ourfelves 
 till after a full half hour's navigation. 
 
 The bottom of the river continued to be fu]\ 
 of pebbles, which for the mod part are very 
 abundant on its banks. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we came to the village of 
 Yii'chan-tchin, Handing in a plain to the weft- 
 ward, 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. 269 
 
 ward, and at Tome diftance from the river, which 
 here ferved to turn ieveral mills for hulking rice. 
 
 The working of thefe machines, confifting of 
 a fpout which is favoured by a dam, which, by 
 railing the level of the river, increafes the fall of 
 the water, as is done in the province of Kiang-fi 
 in regard to the mills of which I fpoke under 
 the date of the 4th of December, and which, 
 gave me an opportunity of faying what I repeat 
 here, that the fimple conftruclion of thefe ma- 
 chines does honour to the genius of the Chinefe. 
 
 At half part eleven we pafied by a village 
 called Than-caan, and at noon by Nam than- 
 caan, both on the weftern bank. Near the latter 
 is a guard-houfe, at a place where a dream 
 coming from the weftward falls into the river. 
 
 At half pafl: twelve we came to a village 
 called You-cov.r-chan, at which was a guard-houfe 
 or military poft. This village, fituated upon the 
 eaftern bank of the river, is pretty large, but not 
 fo much fo as the preceding ones which I have 
 juft mentioned. 
 
 At two o'clock we had Fou-te-na likewife 
 
 to the eaft of us. This place, which is of 
 
 % confiderable 
 
2JO VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 confiderable fize, contains fome handfome 
 brick houfes, feveral of them being two (lories 
 high. 
 
 By the river fide we remarked ten water mills 
 for hufking rice. It is probable that this grain 
 is brought here from other places ; for the land 
 lies too high to admit of much being cultivated 
 in thefe parts. Several of the mills are now 
 going, which confirms me in the idea I had con- 
 ceived of the ufe of thefe machines. 
 
 At four o'clock we found ourfelves abreaft of 
 Oti-tchin, a pretty large place, fituated upon the 
 eaftern bank. A branch of the river coming 
 from the fouth-eaft here falls into the principal 
 bed ; but as that branch is obftructed by a bar, 
 it does not appear to be navigable. Ou-tchiu 
 contains a little hexagonal tower of fix ftories. 
 It is very ancient, but has ftill fome remains of 
 its former beauty. The fpire of caft metal, and 
 the ornaments about it, of which I have already 
 fpoken feveral times, embelliih its fummit. No- 
 thing elfe is worthy of notice in this place, 
 which when feen however from a little diftance, 
 affords a very agreeable view. 
 
 Our 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 27I 
 
 Our courfe, which, during the day had been 
 generally fouth, now took a direction entirely to 
 the weftward. At half paft four it ceafed rain- 
 ing, and the weather became perfectly fair. 
 
 At five o'clock we had a village called Ou- 
 -paytcheou to the north of us. It is a pretty, 
 large place, confiding of brick houfes, and con- 
 taining a number of trees which are eafily dif- 
 tinguiihable, the village ftanding at no great 
 diftance from the river. Nearly oppofite is 
 another pretty village with lofty houfes. It is 
 called YoH-lau-chan. 
 
 ■ At fix o'clock we paffed by Tchlt-tou-haan, a 
 pretty large village to the north. Behind it and 
 towards the plant is a ilender hexagonal tower 
 of feven ftories, (landing on a hill. Between this 
 village and You-lan-chan two tributary dreams 
 fall into the river, one coming from the north- 
 wed, and the other from the fouth. 
 
 A little beyond Tchh-tou-haan we perceived 
 another large branch falling into that which we 
 were in, and running in fuch a direction that 
 the river and that branch are only feparated 
 from each other by a narrow tongue of land 
 partly overflown, It might even have been fup- 
 
 pofed 
 
2J± VOYAGE OP THE DtTTCH 
 
 pofed that the two branches made but one ; but 
 I was convinced of the contrary by obferving 
 a little boat which was going up the other 
 branch, and which was pufhed forward by a 
 pole applied to the tongue of land. — We flopped 
 when we had proceeded a little farther to fup 
 and pafs the night. 
 
 During the day we faw nothing but plains and 
 fields, growing wheat in fome parts, in others 
 rape-feed, which is beginning already to ripen. 
 
 It is eafy to conceive that we found the tem- 
 perature of the air growing milder every day. 
 Within the lafl week the difference is very great. 
 The foil appears to be here of excellent quality. 
 
 The navigation of the river was to-day much 
 more difficult, becaufe in general it ran with 
 greater rapidity, and becaufe in feveral places 
 where its depth decreafed the ftrength of the 
 ftream was ftill farther augmented. This double 
 inconvenience materially impeded our progrefs 
 up the river. Befides, the rain, which was ac- 
 companied by cold weather, made the labour of 
 the trackers ftill more fevere. 
 
 We 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794—5. 273 
 
 We fet off again at break of day, ftill tracked 
 as before, but affifted by a very fmall fail. The 
 wind, which blew from the eaftward, allowed 
 us to make ufe of it, becaufe we were fleering 
 to the weftward. The weather was cloudy, and 
 a flight mift made the air piercingly cold. 
 
 At feven o'clock we parted along the fouth 
 fide, which is concealed by a thick plantation of 
 trees, and near which, at a fmall diftance from 
 the water, Hands an hexagonal tower, of feven 
 ftories, and of moderate fize. 
 
 To the fouth was a large hamlet, with feveral 
 brick-kilns in the neighbourhood, while a num- 
 ber of water-mills for hulking rice flood fcattered 
 here and there upon the banks of the river. 
 
 At half paft feven we came to Yac-t chin-fan, a 
 kind of advanced poft to the city of Long-you-chen. 
 It is fituated at the extremity of a point of land, 
 which divides the river into two branches, while 
 the city itfelf is feated in the plains at five li dif- 
 tance. Yac-tchin-fan is a pretty large place, and 
 appears to carry on a confiderable trade in wood. 
 We flopped there to take on board provifions, 
 and did not leave it till half paft nine. 
 Vol. II. T Almofl 
 
2j4 VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH 
 
 Almoft fronting it, and on the north fide of 
 the river, is the village of Tfa-yu. It is well 
 built, and its extent befpeaks it a place of fome 
 
 note. 
 
 A little after ten o'clock, and on the north 
 fide of the river, we had a fmall chain of moun- 
 tains of little elevation. The river at this part 
 divides into two branches, which join again fur- 
 ther to the weftward, after having formed an 
 ifland. 
 
 Not far from the place where it branches off 
 we came to the village of Tein-tia-t 7iaan, where 
 the dream ran fo ftrong againft us, that it was 
 with infinite difficulty we doubled a point, al- 
 though our fail was filled by a favourable wind, 
 and we were ftill afllfted by the tracking line. 
 The rain had fwelled the river, and increafed the 
 rapidity of its current. 
 
 At half paft eleven we enjoyed the fight of the 
 handfome village of Tchin-tia-th'aan, upon the 
 fouth fide. A quarter of an hour afterwards 
 Thing-ken-unn, another handfome village upon 
 the north bank attracted our attention. 
 
 A little 
 
EMBASSY TO CHItfA IN 1794?-$* 1*1$ 
 
 A little before I had remarked two towers at 
 a great diftance in the plain, one to the fouth- 
 e&ft, the other to the fouth. I was told that the 
 firft ftands in the city of Long-yon-chen, which I 
 have juft mentioned* 
 
 The plains to the fouthward were interfperfed 
 with a great number of trees, while thofe to the 
 northward feem to be more particularly devoted 
 to tillage and to fruit trees. 
 
 At half pad twelve we pafTed by the village of 
 Long-chen-yen aud anjhour afterwards Tang-thou* 
 ouang, both fituated to the northward, and making 
 si handfome appearance* 
 
 After another half hour's navigation we found 
 ourfelves at a village called Yin-tchin y which oc- 
 cupies both banks of the river. It was there 
 that, for the firft time, I faw orchards of con- 
 dderable extent, entirely full of orange trees. 
 
 At two o'clock we came to Nik-king-tchnm-than, 
 & village of tolerable fize, and fituated to the 
 northward, a little way behind the bank of the 
 river, which is here very high and uneven. 
 
 T z A quarter 
 
2.j6 VOYAGE*~OF THE DUTCH 
 
 A quarter of an hour afterwards a handfome 
 village called ,'chong-ua was to the fouth of us,- 
 and the great village of Ninngau-tchan : but the 
 latter lies in the plain, at fome diftance from the 
 river -fide. 
 
 In this part the river is remarkably ferpentine, 
 and divides into feveral branches, which form 
 two little iflands, er rather two banks of pebbles. 
 The ftream was here alfo very ftrong. 
 
 At three o'clock we had again two pretty 
 villages upon the oppofite fides of the river ; viz. 
 Tftang-fi to the fouthward, and Nan-ka to the 
 northward. To the fouth the plain was inter- 
 fperfed with fmall hills and rifing grounds, while 
 mountains were feen at a ftill greater diftance. 
 
 At half paft three we paiTed An-cin-tchy i ftand- . 
 ing to the fouthward, and furrounded by a great 
 number of trees. Half an hour after we had to 
 the north of us Yanching-ouang> another village, 
 divided into four parts, and containing a number 
 of handfome brick houfes. Here the little hills 
 on the fouth fide began to decreafe in number, 
 and left a gn -iter extent of level ground. The 
 navigation of the river was ftill rendered laborious 
 
 and 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 27) 
 
 and inconvenient by the combined effect or fhoals 
 and a rapid itream. 
 
 At a quarter pad five we came to the village 
 of Chan-tong-chan, pleafantJy fit u .ted under the 
 fhade of trees, at a fmail diftance from the north 
 bank. 
 
 A quarter of an hour after we reached a 
 village called Ny~tchan-tau, fituated upon the 
 fide and fummit of a rocky hill, and alfo at fome 
 diftance from the water-lide. between thefe 
 two places, on the banks of the river, is a 
 vaft meadow, the firft of the kind that i have 
 met with curing my journey. Shortly after we 
 came to an hexagonal rower of nine ftories, in 
 good prefervation, and ornamented at tht top 
 by a handfome fpire of call metal. It ftands on 
 the north iid^, near the bank, is built upon a 
 high rocky hill, and is called Mang-tchan-thap. 
 It appears to have become the haunt of an im- 
 menfe number of herons, which are feen perched 
 upon different parts of it, and paffing to and fro 
 between it and the river. Fart of the village of 
 Ny-tchan-tau is at the foot of this kind of rock, 
 to the weftvvard of the tower, and aads to the 
 view afforded by the latter that of its handfome 
 houfes flanding pleafantly in the midft of trees, 
 
 T 3 A con* 
 
%j% VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 A confiderable number of cows were grazing in 
 the neighbourhood, and gave new life to the pic- 
 ture, with which was united the profpe£t of an- 
 other large portion of the village, Handing further 
 to the weft ward, and inferior in no refpe6t to the 
 firft-mentioned part. 
 
 At a quarter pad fix another place of the 
 fame kind, divided into feveral quarters, and 
 intermixed with trees, attracted my attention. 
 It was Saug-chuon-fuang, which, feen from the 
 river at this diftance, feems to have its large and 
 handfome houfes difperfed on purpofe to render 
 them more remarkable, 
 
 A quarter of an hour afterwards we made a 
 Hop at a place upon the north bank, where the 
 inhabitants fhip a great deal of charcoal made 
 from pines burnt in the environs. Great num- 
 bers of thofe trees occupy the neighbouring 
 heights and mountains. For the difpatch of all 
 thefe cargoes there is only a fingle office or fac- 
 tory, which is built on the banks of the river, 
 and at which the merchants engaged in this 
 traffic affemble. 
 
 After having made a repaft oppofite this place* 
 we proceeded upon our voyage. Shortly after 
 
 we 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 2?9 
 
 we paffed by a tower fimilar to that which I have 
 juft mentioned : it is named Tchkn-ning-thap. At 
 midnight we were ftill under way. In the courfe 
 of this day we faw a great number of mills for 
 cleaning rice upon the two banks of the river. 
 
 3d. Scarcely had a new day appeared, when 
 we arrived abreaft of Kiou-tcheott-fou, where we 
 flopped two hours to take on board provisions. 
 Then ranging along it, we directed our courfe 
 to its weftern extremity, where we made an- 
 other flop of half an hour. The city ftands upon, 
 the fouth bank ; the river, which divides into 
 two branches, forming a narrow ifland in the 
 front of it, as long as the place itfelf. The 
 bank upon which the walls are built is about 
 twenty-five feet high j and two handfome gates 
 face the river. Thefe were all I was able to 
 diftinguifh of the city, becaufe the furrounding 
 ramparts hid every thing elfe from our view. It 
 appeared, however, that it was a place of mo« 
 derate fize. 
 
 At a quarter paft fix we paffed between two 
 villages, the one to the fouth called Yat-fau, the 
 other to the north, both of them making a very 
 pleafing appearance. Half an hour afterwards 
 we had the fmall but handfome village of Hong- 
 T 4 t chap-pa 
 
28o VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 tchap-pa on the north bank -, and at the fame 
 time to the fouth, but at fome [diftance from the 
 river, Ouong-tchun-thaan, a pretty large place. 
 Handfome and lofty houfes, and a great number 
 of trees, render its fituation very agreeable to 
 the eye. 
 
 A little way beyond, the country on the fouth 
 fide prefented broken hills to our view, that in 
 the north had exhibited umilar ones in the morn- 
 ing ; and from thefe latter fome labourers were 
 employed in extracting ftone. 
 
 At a quarter pad feven we had a beautiful 
 profpecl of a valley fituated to the fouthward, 
 and furrounded by hills thickly interfperfed with 
 rocks, in fpite of which the induftrious Chinefe 
 has found means to cover all the prolific fpots 
 with corn of the beft fort, and the moft ufeful 
 feeds, up to the very cop of the hills, by form- 
 ing a kind of terrace, fuch as I have heretofore 
 
 defcribed. 
 
 m 
 
 This valley contains within itfelf every thing 
 that could be expected from a vaft extent of 
 country. Not a fingle fpot of its furface is neg- 
 lected. With the lively hue of various kinds of 
 corn are intermingled the deeper tints of the 
 
 4 orange 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — 5. 20i 
 
 orange and other fruit-trees, whofe luxuriant 
 growth, in fome meafure, rivals that of the noble 
 pines and lofty cedars that grow upon the neigh- 
 bouring heights. That nothing, in fhort, may 
 be w r anting to this charming picture, a loud- 
 murmuring cafcade comes pouring down from 
 the top of a rock, and runs into the middle of 
 the valley, while the eye, which is alternately 
 attracted by the bare parts of the rock, by the 
 verdure of the plains, between which thofe rug- 
 ged points feem to with to hide themfelves, and 
 the new contrail afforded by the white foam of 
 the falling water, is never tired of admiring a 
 fcene fo truly pi£lurefque, that no other part of 
 the world is capable, in my opinion, of effacing 
 its remembrance. So many united beauties are, 
 however, the mere work of nature, without any 
 other ornaments than thofe which the has herfelf 
 created, or which have fprung up under the 
 hand of the hufbandman, as fimple as herfelf. 
 How great is the magnificence of this lituation ! 
 Yes, I will venture to fay that the molt able 
 mailer could not reprefent the attractive view- 
 afforded by this confined fpot without weakening 
 its effe£t, without fuffering a part of the charms 
 that pervade it to efcape his pencil. 
 
 At 
 
2S2 Voyage of the dutch 
 
 At three quarters pad feven we arrived abreaft 
 of Tfau-tfi-fou, a pretty large and handfome 
 place, fituated between lofty trees, at a fmall 
 diftance from the river. 
 
 A quarter of an hour after we had to the fouth 
 a village called Man-tchin-ching, a place of decent 
 appearance, built along the water-fide. Here the 
 ftony hills on the fouth fide retire from the river, 
 and are fucceeded by fpots of level ground. Not 
 one of thefe heights is left uncultivated. Every 
 hill exhibits, to its very fummit, proofs of the 
 induftry of the intelligent hufbandman; and as 
 the corn is already very forward, and the turnips, 
 which are in bloffom, are nearly full grown, all 
 this country forms a picture which it is more eafy 
 to conceive than to defcribe, efpecially when I 
 add that in feveral places the meadows are en- 
 livened by the peaceful animals to which they 
 afford an abundant nourifhment. 
 
 We are then well convinced, from our own 
 experience, that the Mandarins did not deceive 
 us when they affured us at Pe-king that, by tak- 
 ing this route, we mould fee the fineft and richeft 
 part of the Empire of China. And when the 
 poor and wretched ftate of the weftern parts that 
 
 we 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — 5. 283 
 
 we crofled in going to the capital is confidered, 
 and compared with the fertility and plenty which 
 is every where perceptible in the eaft, it is im- 
 poffible to refleft, without great aftoniihment, 
 that the Emperors have left their ancient refi- 
 dence in the rich and plentiful country of Nam- 
 king in order to fix it in the fandy and fterile 
 diftrict of Pe-king, 
 
 At half paft eight we pafled by a village called 
 Nam-tchangy fituaied in the plain to the fouth, 
 and plealantJy fhaded by trees in the midft of 
 fields laid out with corn. A quarter of an 
 hour afterwards we had to the fouthward the 
 handfome village of Tfau-tji, and to the north 
 Ouan-pou, a tolerably extenfive and good-looking 
 place. There are two Ihoals in the middle of 
 the river. Another hour brought us to a pretty 
 large village called Nau-Ubun } (landing upon the 
 north fide, while to the fouth, at fome diftance 
 from the water-tide, was Ting-tchu, a place more 
 confiderable than the village. 
 
 At half paft ten Tckie-tchen, another very ex^ 
 tenfive village, divided into four quarters, all of 
 which made a good appearance, appeared in the 
 plain to the northward. 
 
 Since 
 
2S4 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH- 
 
 Since this morning the mills fur hulking, rice 
 have increafed in number on both fides or the 
 river, and many of them are at work. The 
 greater frequency of thefe mills having led me to 
 make more particular enquiries, I found that I 
 had erroneoufly conceived an opinion that the 
 rice which is here hufked would not grow in any 
 great quantity, on account of the elevation 
 of the ground in thefe parts; for I learnt, 
 with great aftonifhment, that all the fields 
 that I now fee growing corn have produced 
 rice, and that as foon as the prefent crops are 
 cut down and carried, rice will in its turn fuc- 
 ceed them, there being two harvefts of that 
 grain in the courle of the vear. This I have no 
 difficulty in believing, when I fee the height of 
 the other corn, which promifes to be fit for the 
 fickle in four or five weeks. The rains too, 
 which happen towards this feafon of the year, 
 by moiilening the land, favour the germination 
 of the rice. Befides, in cafe of neceility, the 
 mills are fet to work, and the water of the river 
 fupplies the want of that which the heavens with- 
 hold. It is not then aftonilhing that all this 
 country is in fo flourifhing a condition, lince k 
 enjoys this double produce ; indeed in every part 
 it bears the marks of a truly delightful abode. 
 
 I col- 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I 794 — 5. 285 
 
 I collected alfo the following information con- 
 cerning thefe mills : each mill belongs in com- 
 mon to feveral families, who have paid the firft 
 coft of its conftruction, and who defray the ex- 
 pences of keeping it in repair ; but with this 
 very remarkable fingularity, that all the parties 
 concerned contribute in proportion to their for- 
 tune, although all have an equal right to the 
 mill. One mill keeps in play fix or feven peftles, 
 working in as many mortars, which furniih each 
 fixty and fome odd pounds of hufked rice a day. 
 It is pofiible there may be as many families 
 interefted in the mill as there are mortars em- 
 ployed. 
 
 In South Carolina in the United States of 
 America, and at Java in the Eaft Indies, wooden 
 peftles and mortars are generally ufed, but here 
 they are both of (tone, which certainly abridges 
 the work. At Canton ftone mortars and wooden 
 peftles are employed, becaufe the operation 
 being performed by manual labour, a (tone 
 peftle would be too heavy. 
 
 The Reader may perhaps imagine that the rice 
 is broken by two ftone inftruments ; but this is 
 what I have never feen refult from the method 
 ufed by the Chinefe. On the contrary, they ab- 
 
 folutely 
 
286 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 folutely infift that the rice ferved up at table 
 fhould combine the whitenefs of fnow with the 
 entire prefervation of the grain. 
 
 I have, however, a remark to make upon the 
 Chinefe mills ; it is, that their peftles work too 
 flowly. In Carolina, in working their mills, 
 they fo manage that each peftle ftrikes fixteen 
 ftrokes in a minute, in order, as they fay there, 
 to keep the rice hot, and in conftant motiori. 
 
 In 1786, when I was a planter in that (late, 
 I had conftru£ted a machine according to my 
 own ideas. Two horfes fet it in motion, and 
 each of its peftles ftruck four and twenty ftrokes 
 in a minute ; on which account it was confidered 
 as a great improvement. The Chinefe mills, as 
 far as my obfervation went, give but eight or ten 
 ftrokes in a minute. It mull at the fame time be 
 acknowledged, that in Carolina the peftles are 
 commonly raifed eighteen or twenty inches, 
 while in China they are lifted from thirty-three 
 to thirty-fix inches; which very much increafes 
 the a£tion of the peftle by the increafed velocity 
 of the fall 3 but on the other hand, the rice re- 
 mains longer without motion, which would elfe- 
 where be confidered as a great objection. Be 
 this as it may, it is to be prefumed, that the 
 
 Chinefe 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — £. iBj 
 
 Chinefe find their method anfwer; or otherwife 
 they would certainly exert their ingenuity to ac- 
 celerate the movement of the wheel, and confe- 
 quently that of the peftles. 
 
 With fuch convincing and repeated proofs be- 
 fore my eyes of the degree of perfectioa to which 
 the Chinefe have carried the art of agriculture; 
 and recollecting again what M. Grammont, the 
 Miiiionary, told me at Canton, in 1790, which 
 I have mentioned elfewherej that is, that at pe- 
 riods very remote, the Chinefe have published 
 learned books concerning this firft of all arts ; 
 books, of which the tranflation would enrich Eu- 
 rope, by the depth of their theory, and by ex- 
 amples deduced from fuccefsful practice ; recol- 
 lecting thefe things, I fay, I felt the ftrongeft de- 
 lire to obtain poffeffion of fome of their works on 
 hufbandry. 
 
 Accordingly, having an opportunity yefterday 
 of converfmg with our third conductor, a man of 
 experience, and a well-informed literary cha- 
 racter; he anfwered that each province, and even 
 each city, has particular works upon agriculture, 
 with precepts concerning every thing necefTary 
 to be obferved by the hufbandman throughout 
 the extent of their diftrict; that thefe books are 
 
 kept 
 
288 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 kept as facred things, and depofited in the hands 
 of commandants or governors of cities, who are 
 not permitted to entruft them to any one; and 
 that confequently it is in vain to think of procur- 
 ing them, becaufe they are not to be fold. The 
 Mandarins of the cities are bound to give to the 
 individuals within their diftricl all the information 
 that the latter may afk for, which feldom hap- 
 pens, becaufe a knowledge of agriculture, held 
 in efteem for feveral centuries part, has been 
 tranfmitted from generation to generation ; from 
 father to fon, with every particular of both the- 
 ory and practice. This has rendered the fcience 
 fo general, that it is fcarcely poffible for any one 
 to (land in need of further inftruction. He pro- 
 mifed me, however, to ufe his beft endeavours 
 to procure me the works which treat of culti- 
 vation in the province of Canton. 
 
 At three quarters pad ten, we pafled along 
 Tchie-than, a very neat village, fituated upon the 
 fouthern bank. Here is a great fhoal in the 
 midft of the river. 
 
 At noon we came to Pau-yuit, a place Hand- 
 ing to the fouth, occupying a great extent along 
 that bank, and containing a great number of 
 large and lofty houfes, with windows in both 
 
 {lories 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN I794 — £. 289 
 
 ftories looking towards the river. Upon an emi- 
 nence oppofite (lands Cau-tchie. 
 
 At one o'clock we came to another village, 
 called Kiou-tau-than. It is a place of fome extent, 
 fituated behind the lofty fouthern bank, and en- 
 tirely furrounded by trees. 
 
 To the north, the hills or little mountains have 
 again advanced as far as the river fide. The great 
 mountains which terminate the horizon on both 
 fides are alfo lefs remote, fo that the quantity of 
 level ground is diminifhed, and we even perceive 
 by the diftance that it will grow fmaller ftill. 
 
 All the country we faw this morning was 
 beautiful, and embellilned by an abundance of 
 foreft trees, and a great number of orange-groves, 
 which produce a very agreeable variety. 
 
 At two o'clock we came to Tchau-yu> a village 
 ftanding in an elevated fituation, although by the 
 river-fide. It is built at the foot of a little moun- 
 tain, and entirely covered with pines. Near this 
 village, which is of meaner appearance than 
 thofe which precede it, is a guard-houfe, or mi- 
 litary poll:. 
 
 Vol. II, U Half 
 
app VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 Half an hour afterwards, the north fide of the 
 river prefented to our view a large piece of mea- 
 dow ground, in which a confiderable number of 
 cattle were grazing. In general we have ken 
 more to-day than for feveral days part. 
 
 At three o'clock we were oppoftte a beautiful 
 cafcade, which falls with impetuofity down the 
 mountain fide, and which after dividing into 
 three branches, rufhes furioufly over the rocks, 
 which fecm to oppofe its inclination to mingls 
 its waters with that of the river. 
 
 The latter, a little before it reaches this place, 
 receives a branch coming from the fouth-eaft, 
 which only leads to a new feparation half an 
 hour afterwards, and to the formation of an 
 ifland of fome height, and in a good ftate of cul* 
 tivation. 
 
 At three quarters pail three the foot of the high 
 mountains on the fouth fide advanced as far as 
 the bank, while on the north fide there was (till 
 an intermediate fpace of level ground. Here a 
 ilorm arofe, which terrified our Chinefe failors to 
 fuch a degree, that they carried us clofe into the 
 more, in order that we might take (belter under 
 it. A heavy Ihower of rain coming on after- 
 
 i wards. 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 — $. 2gl 
 
 wards, we refolved to flop at this place for the 
 whole of the night. 
 
 The weather was fo hot to-day, that Fahren- 
 heit's thermometer rofe to 79 degrees. 
 
 Being very near the place whence we are to 
 make a journey of about a hundred // over land 
 with all our baggage, the rain is a matter of fome 
 concern to us, as we are apprehenfive of its ren- 
 dering the roads execrably bad. 
 
 4th. A frem arid fair breeze induced us to fet 
 off at half paft five ; for other wife the rain and a 
 llrong current would have kept us where we were. 
 
 Our veflels being light, and drawing little 
 water, go very faft, and in my opinion at not 
 lefs than the rate often thoufand toifes an hour; 
 but fuch is the rapidity of the ltream, that if our 
 way be meafured by the time we employ in going 
 from one point to another, we do not advance at 
 above a third of that rate. 
 
 At half paft fix we were a-breafl of a village 
 
 called Chang-ou. It ftands at no great diftance 
 
 from the water fide, towards the fouth-eaft, at 
 
 Ua the 
 
 
292 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 the foot of mountains, which afterwards turn, off 
 to the fouth. 
 
 At this place, the river by dividing into diffe- 
 rent branches, ' forms feveral iflands and a number 
 of fand-banks. It was very much fwelled by the 
 rain-water, which came pouring down from the 
 mountains on every fide, forming cafcades in its 
 way over the rocks. 
 
 At a quarter paft feven we paiTed Maa-tfu, a 
 very large village fituated to the fouth-eaft, and 
 compofed of three detached portions, receding 
 one behind another from the water fide into the 
 plain. The houfes for the molt part are hand- 
 fome. That part that runs along the river fide 
 contains a ftone bridge of a fingle arch, built 
 over a confiderable ftream, which mixes its waters 
 with thofe of the river. The bridge is in very 
 good condition. Towards the middle of it, but 
 upon one of its fides, is a ftone pillar, with a 
 lantern upon the top- of it, in which is placed a 
 lamp, that ferves, during the night, as a guide 
 to paffengers. 
 
 While palling by feveral water-mills, I obferv- 
 ed that the great wheel, by means of a little 
 "wheel, which revolves at the other extremity of 
 
 the 
 
EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 5. 293 
 
 the fame axle, and which ferves to turn a hori- 
 zontal wheel, gives motion to mill-ftones, that 
 ftrip the rice of the outer hulk before it is car- 
 ried to the mortar, in order to be clean fed from 
 its inner one. This fingle machine then ferves 
 at one and the fame time, to remove the outer 
 hufk, and to* cleanfe the rice, a double effect 
 which I never faw produced by any machine in 
 Carolina, where the tirft operation is feparately 
 performed in wooden mills. 
 
 At three quarters paft feven we paffed by Suy- 
 laam, fituated to the fouthward. 
 
 The wind frefhening, we were obliged to reef 
 our fails, which was not done till a veffel, having 
 the fervants of one of the Mandarins on board, 
 had the misfortune to overfet. At a fmall dif- 
 tance from thence, we were almoft entirely fur- 
 rounded by mountains, having only a little level 
 ground to the north. Thefe mountains are al- 
 moft bare, are deftitute of trees, and afford no- 
 thing but a few worthlefs herbs, moffes, and 
 other plants which generally grow upon rocks. 
 
 At half pad nine, being near Sam-ti-tha7t> a 
 
 hamlet ftanding at an angle made by the river, 
 
 we entered into another branch of it, which 
 
 U 3 takes 
 
294 VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH 
 
 takes a fouth-weft direction, while the main, 
 ftream runs to the north-weft. We were now at 
 no great diftance from the city of Chang-chan-chen y 
 where we are to quit our prefent veffels. In a 
 number of reaches the wind was unfavourable, 
 and the ftream very ftrong, which gave a great 
 deal of trouble to the crew, and was the occa- 
 fion of our not arriving before eleven o'clock at 
 the place where veffels ufually flop a-breaft of 
 Chang- chan-chen. At his arrival the Ambaffador 
 was faluted with three guns, and the fame ho- 
 nour was afterwards paid to me. 
 
 The city of Chang- chan-chen is very ancient, but 
 not large, although its walls are very extenfive, 
 and pafs over two mountains. Within them are 
 to be feen the ruins of a very ancient tower, 
 which ftands upon a high hill, and of which fix 
 ftories are ftill difcernible. There is nothing elfe 
 curious, nor any kind of manufacture or particu- 
 lar trade worthy of obfervation in this place. Its 
 whole impoitance is derived from its ferving al 
 an entrepot for all the merchandize that the pro* 
 vinces of Tche-kiang and of Kiang-Ji fend recipro- 
 cally to each other. 
 
 We had been half an hour at Chang-chan-cJien, 
 when our third conductor came to pay us a vifit, 
 
 and 
 
/ 
 
 EMBASSY TO CHINA IN 1794 5. 295 
 
 and delivered to me an itinerary of the route we 
 are to take to-morrow if the weather permit. It 
 includes a fpace of ninety // (eight leagues and a 
 half). He begged us in confequence to breakfaft 
 early in the morning, in order that we may take 
 our evening repair on board of the veffels in which 
 we are to embark. On this account our cooks 
 will be fent off at an early hour. 
 
 I immediately repaired to the Ambaflfador, tq 
 acquaint him with this plan. He agreed to it, 
 provided it mould not rain, not wilhing to expofe 
 our baggage to injury, nor tofuffer any mconver 
 nience himfelf, fince nothing required our reach- 
 ing our journey's end on any particular day. Our 
 arrangement is therefore entirely conditional. 
 
 The weather was to-day rendered cold by the 
 rain ; and the wind frefhened in :the afternoon. 
 
 We learned with great fatisfaction that nobody 
 was loft by the overfetting of the Samjiane, which 
 carried the foldiers of a provincial Mandarin, by 
 whom we are efcorted. We mould have felt 
 doubly hurt, if this mark of honour fliewn to the 
 EmbafTy had occafioned the lofs of a fingle in- 
 dividual, 
 
 END OF VOL 11. 
 
 u 4 
 
Notice of a Collection of Chinefe Drawings, in 
 the Pajfeffion of M. Fan Braam, Author of 
 this Work. 
 
 I. 
 
 GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 A volume of coloured maps, of about fifteen inches 
 long by a foot high; exhibiting all China, divided into 
 provinces. 
 
 II. 
 
 VIEWS AND LANDSCAPES. 
 
 Seven volumes containing three hundred and fixty- 
 eight drawings ; being fo many coloured views and land- 
 fcapes reprefenting the moft interesting places in all 
 China. 
 
 Each drawing is eighteen inches long by thirteen and 
 a half broad. 
 
 This part, which is the moft extenfive of the col- 
 lection, and that which alfo required the moft time to 
 collett, was formed by the opportunities which a variety 
 
 of 
 
2$)S NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, Bcc. 
 
 of circumftances gave M. Van Braam of obtaining copies 
 cf pictures ; 2<Jly, and more particularly by the idea which 
 he conceived of fending Chinefe painters to travel at his 
 expence throughout the whole of China, in order that 
 they might collect views of every thing curious and pic- 
 turefque which that country contains. 3dly, by the 
 opportunity the Dutch Embaffy gave him of feeing a 
 number of remarkable things, and Sketching them him- 
 felf, that he might have them afterwards painted at Can- 
 ton, as be fays himfelf in feveral parts of his narrative. 
 
 That journey, before which M. Van Braam was al- 
 ready in poffeflion of drawings of a great number of the 
 places which lay upon his road, either in going to Pe- 
 king, or on his return from thence, ferved to convince 
 him of the fidelity of the painters who had enriched his 
 colle&ion with them ; and naturally induced a belief 
 that an equal attention had been paid to truth, with re- 
 gard to places which he had no opportunity of feeing. 
 
 So great a number of drawings afford a great variety, 
 and are highly gratifying to curiofity. 
 
 In .the fhft place they give an exa£t idea of the gene- 
 ral appearance of China ; of its plains ; of its mountains, 
 which have a character that feems to be peculiar to 
 them; and of its rocks, the form of which is in general 
 Irrange and whimfical, when compared with thofe of 
 Europe. They are often compofed of blocks of greater 
 or fmallcr magnitude, the rhomboidal regularity of 
 which is finking. It is not uncommon to fee fome 
 which are arched, and which leave between the kind or 
 
 pillars^ 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 299 
 
 jpillars, or maffes that fupport them, great open fpaces, 
 the boldnefs of which aftonifhes, efpecially where they 
 ftand over ftreams of water, as if intended for bridges 
 by the hand of nature, 
 
 A view of rivers, of immenfe navigable canals, of 
 dikes, of caufeways, of the means of irrigation, and 
 carrying off the water ; ofcafcades, &c. frequently add 
 to theintereft of the piclure. 
 
 It is gratifying to have a fight of a Chinefe city, of the 
 walls that furround it, and of the different monuments 
 it contains ; as well as to judge of the ftyle of the archi- 
 tecture, and of the ornaments which it borrows from 
 the chiffel of the carver, and from the art of the gilder 
 and varnifher. 
 
 In one drawing is an extent of country, embellifhed 
 by all the charms of cultivation: trees, meadows, plants, 
 animals, hufbandmen, every thing, in fhort, puts in 
 its claim to attention. In another is one of the Empe- 
 ror's fummer-palaces : in a third, a fpot embelliihed by 
 the pride of a Mandarin, or by the luxury of a private 
 individual; while in a fourth it is the care taken to pro- 
 vide an afylum for pleafure, a dwelling for fanatical 
 bonzes, or a retreat for philofophy that occupies the 
 mind. 
 
 A perfpective view of a caftle, or of a guard-houfe, 
 near which are foldiers differently clothed and armed ; 
 and that of an efplanade with large bodies of troops ex- 
 
 ercifing, 
 
30O NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 ercifing, alio prefent themfelves. High-ways, magni- 
 ficent bridges, colleges, academies, bells, antique vafes, 
 places devoted to the dead ; and clocks, which announce 
 to man, that time, while flying carries him away, fuc- 
 ccflively offer themfelves to the eye of the obferver. 
 
 In looking over this collection of views, it is eafy to 
 conceive how great is in China the activity of agricul- 
 ture and commerce, tbofe two great fprings of political 
 movement. Almoit in every drawing are ieen a number 
 of veffels paffing through the Empire in every direction. 
 The beholder is ftruck with the variety of fhipping, 
 adapted to the different rivers and canals •> and he ftops 
 with plealure in places intended for embarkation andde- 
 harknents, which themfelves give life to the piclurer 
 The various kinds of merchandize; the means ufed for 
 the carriage of each of them; all that induftry has con- 
 ceived and executed to overcome the obltacles that na- 
 ture fometimes oppofes to it ; and particularly that of 
 the difference of levels between the water of feveral na- 
 tural or artificial canals which communicate with one 
 another, are fo many fubjects of inveftigation, amufe- 
 ment, and inftruction. 
 
 h is imnoffible to examine this collection of drawings, 
 without deriving from it another advantage— that or 
 cliicovering in the inhabitants of China feveral traits 
 which prove that their ideas are not always without 
 lb me analogy to our own. This is, for inftance, ob- 
 fervable in a view of a temple of the God of Riches, to 
 which thole are thronging, who wilh to folicit his fa- 
 vours. 
 
 Among 
 
NOTICE GF DRAWINGS, &C 3d 
 
 Among the public edifices are fait magazines, and in- 
 numerable towers ; with convents, pagodas, and mofques, 
 which furnifh a new proof that fuperftition is fo power- 
 ful, only becaufe me perfuades man that fhe protects 
 his weaknefs. The conftru£tion and decorations of 
 thefe buildings often poifefs beauties, which, though 
 diiTbnant from our tafte, are not the lefs real. 
 
 We experience a different fort of fenfation when we 
 come to twenty drawings, which are fo many views of 
 different parts of the buildings erected in the European 
 manner, within the immenfe circuit of the walls of the 
 Emperor's fummer palace of Yuen ming-yuen. When 
 w T e know that this habitation is only one out of thirty- 
 fix occupied by the Emperor and his fuite in that pa- 
 lace, we are naturally led to form a magnificent idea ol 
 the country, in which the gigantic plan of this imperial 
 residence has been conceived and executed. 
 
 When after this we come to a reprefentation of fome 
 cavernous mountains, and efpecially when we meet with 
 that which exhibits men in a flate next to favage, and 
 without communication with the Chinefe, whofe lan- 
 guage they do not even fpeak, it requires an extraordi- 
 nary effort of the mind, to conceive the idea of a ft ate 
 which combines with an almoft unlimited extent, a po- 
 pulation we are tempted to believe fabulous, and an an- 
 tiquity which has no longer any contemporary. 
 
 Perhaps this interefting part of M. Van Braam's col- 
 lpclions has not always in the accuracy of drawing, or 
 
 in 
 
302 MOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C 
 
 in the colouring, what European eyes are accuffomedto 
 delire ; but when we refled that it is China that is meant 
 to be reprefented, and thatChinefe are the painters, wc 
 are difpofed to believe that in fome refpedts this manner 
 is not without its advantage ; and that the refemblancc 
 gain- a great deal that it might have been robbed of by 
 the more delicate hand of an European. 
 
 III. 
 
 VIEWS AND MONUMENTS OF CANTON. 
 
 Two volumes containing a hundred and ten coloured 
 drawings, which are fo many views of edifices and mo- 
 numents in the immenfe city of Cantort. 
 
 Each drawing is eighteen inches long by thirteeit 
 inches high. 
 
 As Canton is the only city in China where foreign- 
 ers are allowed to land, and as even there they are only 
 permitted to appear a few months every year within the- 
 limits of the fuburbs, in which they are in a manner con- 
 fined, it may be faid with truth, that it is by Canton 
 alone that the Europeans can judge of the whole Ghi- 
 nefe empire. 
 
 This is then a powerful motive of attention to a kt 
 of a hundred and ten drawings, which exhibit every 
 thing remarkable in that city, independently of feveral 
 other drawings comprized in that part of M. Van Braam'9 
 
 collection, 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 305 
 
 colle&ion, containing the views and Iandfcapes of which 
 I have already fpoken. 
 
 A city of aftonifhing population; a city become the 
 entrepot of almoft all the foreign trade carried on by the 
 Chinefe, muft offer to the eye of the obferver a multi- 
 tude of curious things of every kind. 
 
 Among them are a great number of pagodas and con- 
 vents, exhibiting along with their different details the 
 mofl ftrange and monftrous productions of fuperflition ; 
 palaces in which the civil and military governors refide; 
 monuments ferving as fo many afylums for the wretched 
 of every defcription, age, and fex ; edifices occupied by 
 the different branches of public adminiftration, rice and 
 fait magazine^, an arfenal, Sec. &c. 
 
 Thefe drawings afford us an opportunity of ftudving 
 and comparing the civil, military, and religious habit?, 
 as well as the manners and ufages of the country. From 
 them we may derive a knowledge of feveral arts, of the 
 procefTes they employ, and of the manner in which the 
 Chinefe apply them in their different kinds of architec- 
 ture, and in decorating, ornamenting, and furnifhing. 
 all kinds of edifices and monuments whatever. 
 
 "Thefe two volumes alfo afford a variety of means of 
 judging of the effect produced upon the Chinefe mind, 
 by an affemblage of men which perhaps furpaffes that of 
 the largeft cities in Europe ; and the philofopher and the 
 moralift may there find more than one fubjedt for re- 
 flection on feeing that man, whatever part of the globe 
 
 he 
 
3O4 NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 he may inhabit, always unites in his condu£l, his con- 
 ceptions, and his works, the moll Unking contradictions. 
 
 Some of thefe drawings alio reprefent public execu- 
 tions. Guilt is then the produce of every foil ; and 
 it will douhtlefs appear that the neceflity of puniih- 
 ing has not been combined in China with the principles 
 which humanity dictates in favour even of the greateft 
 criminals. 
 
 IV. 
 
 THE PAGODA IIAAY-TSONG-TSI. 
 
 In the IJland of Ho>um, oppqfite Canton, with the Tcmples y 
 the Convent, the Buildings belonging to it, iffc. 
 
 This volume contains forty-eight drawings, eighteen 
 inches long by thirteen high. 
 
 The artift has endeavoured, by the numerous details 
 contained in them, to give an cxaft and complete idea 
 of every thing belonging to a celebrated p?.goda, which 
 fecms calculated to intereft Europe more than any 
 other, becaufe it was within its walls that the Englifh 
 Embaily of Lord Macartney was received at Canton 
 and had an audience of the Tfong-tou, and becaufe the 
 Dutch EmbavTy which gave occafion to the prefent 
 work had theie alio feveral audiences of that Viceroy *■'. 
 
 * Lord Macartney's lodgings were in the garden of a merchant named 
 l.opqua, i"cparjtcd from the convent of this pagoda by nothing but a wall, 
 in which is a door of communication that ferved the Ambaflador as a 
 pp.fta^c from one to the other. 
 
 A bird's-eye 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 30£ 
 
 A bird's-eye view (hews the whole affemblage of edi- 
 fices of which this pagoda is compofed, and the reft of 
 the drawings exhibit a variety of details, particularly very 
 rich idols, figures, and flatues, which to us are certainly 
 entirely new. 
 
 MYTHOLOGY. 
 
 Two volumes, containing each a hundred and fifty 
 drawings of feventeen inches high by a foot in breadth. 
 
 This part of the collection exhibits the figures of a 
 hundred gods and goddefles, and of feverai perfonages 
 confidered as the minifters, agents, or fervants of an 
 Almighty Being, of a God fuperior to ail others. 
 
 Among thefe divinities, lightning, thunder, wind, 
 rain, fountains, fire, cooks, and carpenters, have theirs. 
 We alfo meet with thofe of goodnefs, profperity, fe- 
 crecy, fertility, and immortality ; as alfo a god who 
 protects againft injuflice and the violence it does not 
 fcruple to employ ; and another who faves from defpair. 
 The healing art has its god, the phyficians have an- 
 other, and death has alfo his. 
 
 In this fet of drawings, which reprefent the whims 
 and weaknefTes of the human mind, at the fame time 
 that they difcover fome ideas that do it honour, the ob- 
 ferver may perceive analogies, ftudy the immediate 
 and remote relations of certain attributes, and convince 
 iiimfelf of the extravagant lengths to which the ima- 
 
 X gination 
 
306 NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C 
 
 gihation is capable of going when it takes faperftiti*©it 
 for its guide. 
 
 Thefe drawings are alfo remarkable for the richnefs 
 of their colouring, and for the fuccefs of the painter iri 
 reprefenting the dreffes in which the divinities have ap- 
 peared to the Chinefe through the medium of thof« 
 who no doubt think, that the better to command the 
 refpect of the vulgar, gold and filver, which are alfo 
 divinites, ought to mine upon them intermingled with 
 the moil brilliant colours. 
 
 VI. 
 
 HISTORY. 
 
 Three volumes containing a hundred and twenty- 
 drawings. 
 
 Here we may trace the fuccclTive difcovery or rather 
 invention of the arts in China. Man, in his primitive 
 iimplicity, and half naked, exercifes his induftry by 
 degrees, and becomes hunter and fifher. He conftru£t$ 
 dwellings to fhelter him from the inclemency of the 
 feafons. From the very employment of his natural 
 means, from his inclination to fociety, proceeds civili- 
 zation ; his ftrength and his intelligence ir.creaie by his 
 union with other men ; he becomes a cultivator, and 
 after having defended his crop from the ravages of ani- 
 mals, he thinks of fubjugating feme of them in oider 
 to make them affifl him in his labours. Thus do we 
 fee the birth of rude but ufeful arts : thefe indicate at a 
 diftance, more or lefs difficult to mcafure, thofe of a 
 
 politer 
 
Notice of drawings, &c. 30? 
 
 politer kind. With fo many new ideas arifes the ne- 
 ceflity of expreffing and tranfmitting them, which at 
 length produces the efforts and the fuccefs of genius. 
 
 By entering into thefe details, fuggefted by the draw- 
 ings themfelves, it is not meant to give a complete idea 
 of them ; for the above view of things belongs to the 
 hiftory of every people and of all nations, while that of 
 China has its peculiar charafteriflics. They are the 
 more curious to ftudy in thefe hundred and twenty 
 drawings, as they are in fact fo many pi£tuv;s o£ 
 eighteen inches by fourteen broad, in each of which a 
 fubject. is prefented embellifhed with, or at lead, accom- 
 panied by all the interefting acceffories the painter has 
 been able to add : battles on land, fea fights, encamp- 
 ments, conflagrations, and various other fcenes of de- 
 ftru&ion ; every thing bears a character which affords 
 room for more than one obfervation. The accuracy of the 
 drawing, the frefhnefs of the colours, every thing, infhort, 
 combines to render the fubject. more interefting ; while 
 in architecture, in ufages, in habits, in furniture, in pro- 
 ductions of the three kingdoms, in landfcapes which 
 exhibit a country little known, thefe two volumes 
 furnifh details, all of which are worthy of praife. 
 
 vn. 
 
 MANNERS and CUSTOMS. 
 A volume containing twenty-four drawings, each 
 feventeen. inches long by thirteen broad. 
 
 The circumftances which belong to the different 
 ranks in China, or which ferve to characterize them, 
 have been applied to the different periods of human life. 
 
 X 2 Here 
 
308 KOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 Here then we difcover the different gradations from 
 the birth of a child to the death of a man, with the 
 intermediate occurrences of education, admiflion among 
 the men of letters, honours paid to the Mandarins, fick- 
 neCs, 8cc. Sec. 
 
 The drawings are coloured as well as all the reft of 
 the collection. 
 
 Two volumes containing a hundred drawings, thir- 
 teen inches high by a little more than nine inches 
 broad. 
 
 Thefe are fo many coloured performances reprefent- 
 ing the primitive inhabitants of China ; the firft Em- 
 perors and their wives ; Confucius ; the Emperor Kicn- 
 long, to whom the Embaffy was fent; the Emprefs, 
 his wife; principal Minifters of State; Mandarins of 
 all ranks ; military candidates exercifing themfelves in 
 order to merit promotion; foldiers of all defcriptions; 
 inhabitants of town and of country; players; beggars; 
 male and female bonzes ; the different individuals com- 
 pofing the train of Mandarins, &c. &c. 
 
 The snd of thefe two volumes is compofed of fif- 
 teen drawings, repreienting different kinds of torture 
 and punifhments in ufe in China, almoft all of which 
 exhibit a degree of cruelty highly afflicting, both be- 
 caufe it can have been thought neceffary, and becaufe it 
 is infufficient to prevent the commiffion of crimes. 
 
 PARTI- 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 3O9 
 
 TARTICULAR MANNERS OF THE CLERGY. 
 
 Two volumes containing each fifty coloured draw- 
 ings, feventeen inches long by thirteen inches broad. 
 
 The firft of thefe drawings reprefents the introduc- 
 du&ion of idolatry into China, and all the reft ferve to 
 prove the prodigious fuccefs it has obtained. By going 
 through this collecYion a complete idea is obtained of all 
 the ufages and ceremonies of the Chinefe clergy, which 
 is compofed of both fexcs. 
 
 There, as well as elfewhere, the manners of the 
 clergy, 'which, properly fpeaking, conftitute its hiftory, 
 are diftinguifhed by traits charafleriflic of the blindeft 
 credulity, kept up and flrengthened by hypocrify, 
 which teaches what it does not believe ; and by fuper- 
 ftition, the miniflers of which counfel and preach by 
 turns whatever it lias made them adopt. 
 
 True philofophy cannot help deploring both thefe 
 errors, and theabfurdity of worfhipping idols ; but will 
 it be able to cure human reafon ? 
 
 GAMES. 
 
 A volume in which are thirty-two drawings, fixteen 
 inches long by thirteen inches broad. 
 
 They reprefent a like number of games with which 
 the Chinefe exercife or amufe themfelves. Among them 
 we recognize thofe of the fcourge-top, quoits, and 
 bowls. 
 
 X3 All 
 
JIQ NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 All thefe drawings are coloured ; each contains for 
 veral figures, and the fludy of manners and cojlume may 
 alfo derive fome advantage from them. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 ARTS and TRADES, AGRICULTURE, MANU- 
 FACTURES, FINE ARTS, &c. 
 
 Two volumes containing each fifty coloured draw- 
 ings, whjch reprefent different Chinefe arts and trades, 
 with figures in adlion, and ferving to chara&erize each 
 profefiicn. 
 
 This part of the collection, which is executed in a 
 very pleafing manner, affords a knowledge of feveral 
 tools ; of a variety of utenfils, and of the form given to 
 them ; as well as feveral articles of furniture. They 
 alfo give us an exa£t idea of the habits of the people; 
 indicate their ufages; and fometimes exhibit traits of 
 the Chinefe character. 
 
 A volume containing forty-eight drawings, fifteen 
 inches long by a foot broad, viz. 
 
 Twelve drawings relative to the culture and prepara- 
 tion of rice. 
 
 Six drawings relative to the cultivation of the cotton- 
 tree, and to the preparation and working up of the 
 cotton. 
 
 Six drawings which exhibit the mulberry-tree, the 
 breeding of filk- worms, and the preparation of the beau- 
 tiful fubitance which that infect produces. 
 
 Eight 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C» ^1 I_ 
 
 Eight drawings which contain details of the art of 
 making porcelain. 
 
 Four drawings exhibiting operations belonging to a 
 pottery. 
 
 And, laflly, twelve drawings all relative to the culture 
 and gathering of the different forts of tea. 
 
 Each drawing is a pifhire in which a number of indi- 
 viduals of both fexes are feen in action. But what ren- 
 ders this part of the collection particularly interefling is* 
 its- not containing a fingle drawing that is not at the 
 fame time a delightful landfcape, in which the painter 
 has collected, with a remarkable degree of truth, every 
 thing that is moft agreeable and finking in China*, 
 citlier in fituation-s, mountains, rivers, ilreams, trees, 
 fruit, flowers, habitations, inftruments of hufbandry, 
 their different ufes, &c. 
 
 In the proceffes of the arts the fame variety is to be 
 found ; and the fame information is to be gained from 
 a. reprefentation of a number of machines and different 
 tools : in a word, it is impoffible to examine thefe de- 
 ligns, all drawn, coloured, and fhaded with remarl^rble 
 tafle, without bellowing praife upon the painter who 
 produced them, and who found means to intermix 
 with a number of ufeful proceffes, curious details rela- 
 tive to the coftume, and even traits of character of feveral 
 claiTes of Chinefe. 
 
 X 4 A volume 
 
£12 NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 A volume containing two drawings relative to the 
 manufactory of glafs, thirteen inches long, by eleven- 
 wide. 
 
 A fifherman* 
 
 Two drawings relative to printing. 
 
 Four concerning the art of making porcelain. 
 
 Thefe feven are eleven inches long, by thirteen inches 
 high. 
 
 Eleven drawings, exhibiting games, among which is 
 the fwing ; tumblers, and performers of fjeight of hand j 
 a fortune-teller, &c. 
 
 Musick. 
 . A volume, in which are thirty-three coloured draw-? 
 ings reprefenting a like number of women playing upon 
 different mulical inftruments in ufe in China. 
 
 From this volume we get a knowledge of thofe in- 
 ftruments, and a good idea of the female drefTes. 
 
 Each drawing is lixteen inches wide, by thirteen 
 inches broad. 
 
 Ships, 
 
kotice of drawings, &c. 313 
 
 Ships, Vessels, Boats, and Barges. 
 Two volumes, containing each a hundred and fifty 
 drawings, fixteen inches and a half broad, reprefenting 
 veffels of all kinds, fuch as are employed in China in 
 the different branches of navigation. 
 
 They are all drawn and coloured after nature, fo that 
 a judgment may be formed of all the modes of Chinefe 
 naval architecture, from mips of war down to the fmalleft 
 boat. The external ornaments, the internal details, 
 the contrivances ufed in the navigating of the different 
 veffels ; every thing in fhort is expreffed. 
 
 Here we diilinguifli the Emperor's Sampane, or pica- 
 fure barge, which is denoted by a kind of dome with 
 peacock's feathers and five-clawed dragons upon it ; 
 other Sampanes, from that ulcd by the Mandarin of 
 the firft rank, or by the courtezan who abandons her- 
 l'elf to the votaries of pleafure, down to that which 
 waits in expectation of being hired by the private indi- 
 vidual. 
 
 In this collection are alfo found veffels for long voy- 
 ages, coafting barks, junks, yachts, fapentincs, cuftom- 
 houfe boats, thofe that are required by the depth of 
 different rivers, either for travelling cr for the convey- 
 ance of fait, rice, cotton, tea, faggots, oil, Hones, Sec. 
 thofe in which tradefmen of different kinds difplay and 
 carry about the articles they wifh to difpofe of, among 
 which we fee the mop of the butcher, florifl, fruiterer, 
 &c. 
 
 The 
 
3x4 KOTJC£ OF.JDJtAWINGS, &C. 
 
 The different kinds of fishermen's boats, pafTage vefTels 
 or hoys, and the boat that]ferves for breeding ducks and 
 the hatching of their eggs make part of this collection. 
 
 In it are alfo to be found the rafts that carry rice, 
 fire-wood, and timber for building; a fort of boats 
 constructed for fpeed, and in general employed at cer- 
 tain times of the moon in matches, in which the finlors 
 endeavour to difplay their talents and their ftrength, and 
 to outgo one another. 
 
 Among thefe vefTels fome go with one or more fails, 
 others with oars, and others again with paddles. ; Thofe 
 meant for matches are of the laft kind, and carry as 
 many as fix and twenty men. The rivers ars fome- 
 times navigated by means of the tracking-lino, and even 
 of poles, as is ftated in the Journey of the Dutch 
 EmbafTy. 
 
 Independently of the variety that the things them- 
 felves produce in thefe two volumes, the eye is delighted 
 with the accuracy of the drawing, and with the ele- 
 gance and the delicacy of the details. The obferver 
 alfo draws from them ideas concerning the habits of 
 the Chinefe, and a number of cuftoms, particularly that 
 of indicating, by eftablifhed figns, the habitual or mo- 
 mentary deilination of the velTel, or the quality of the 
 perfons it is conveying. 
 
 Finally, when we refleft that in China fcveral mil- 
 lions of individuals are born and die on board of vefiels 
 without ever poiTefllng any habitation byt thefe floating 
 
 houfes 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 3 1 JJ 
 
 hxmfes, in which whole families lead a fort of am- 
 phibious life, we feel a {till ftronger intereft while ex- 
 amining this colle&ion, which at the fame time calls to 
 mind the raoft daring attempt of man» 
 
 IX, 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 Fish, and Crustaceous Animals. 
 
 Two volumes containing eighty drawings, a foot 
 long by about nine inches high, in which are drawn 
 and coloured after nature frefh and fait- water fifth, fea- 
 fnak.es and eels, lobfters, and ihrimps, the thornback, 
 the mackarel, the fwift-fvvjmming trumpet -fifli, the vo- 
 racious fhark, &c. &c. 
 
 An idea may be formed from thefe two volumes of 
 the advantage pofieffed by the Chinefe painters in the 
 ufe of gold and filver. The lad metal efpecially, when 
 employed in painting the fcales of a filh, gives a lin- 
 gular degree of truth to the touches of the pencil. It is 
 no exaggeration to fay that thefe animals appear alive 
 upon the paper, on which the artift has reprefented 
 them with a degree of care that lias preferved every trait, 
 and all the delicacy of the model. 
 
 Birds. 
 
 A volume confiding of fifty drawings, fifteen inches 
 and a half long by fourteen inches high. 
 
 Thefe 
 
3l6 KOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C 
 
 Thefe drawings, full of different birds, and coloured 
 after nature, are mofl beautiful pieces. The painter 
 feems to have taken particular pleafure in the repre- 
 sentation of thofe charming creatures, whofe forms, 
 more or lefs various, more or lefs elegant, are ail em- 
 bellifhed by a robe, in which nature difplays her moft 
 brilliant tints, combined with a degree of tafle which 
 belongs to her pencil alone. 
 
 "While viewing this ornithological part of the collec- 
 tion, while admiring thefe interefling animals which 
 feem to breathe, it is impomble to avoid remarking the 
 art with which the painter has placed them upon the 
 different plants which each 1 fpecies afF~£ls, and in the 
 mofl elegant attitudes. We thus enjoy a double plea- 
 fure, while learning Something of their nature and 
 habits. The aquatic bird fometimes difcovers traits, 
 which are the more eafily perceptible, becaufe he is 
 aflbciated in the fame drawing with a land bird ; while 
 two different plants, by being brought together, ftrike 
 the eye more forcibly, and make an agreeable contrail: 
 with the water, which' indicates the inclination of the 
 animal capable of exifting in both elements. 
 
 When the male and female of the fame fpec'es have 
 any remarkable difference in their forms or feathers, 
 that difference has been obferved and expreffed. 
 
 It is in this part of the collection that we are never 
 tired of admiring the art of employing thofe beautiful 
 colours that fecm to belong exclusively to Afia. It is fo 
 
 much 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &CC. 317 
 
 much the more valuable, as the plants, flowers, and 
 fruit introduced along with the birds make 'it an ex- 
 cellent fupplement to the other volumes fet apart for 
 the vegetable reign. 
 
 We are pleafed alfo to find in it feveral birds of other 
 climates, which belong alfo to one of the three parts of 
 the globe, and fometimes to them all. 
 
 INSECTS, REPTILES, AND CRUSTACEOUS ANIMALS. 
 
 A volume containing forty-fix drawings, of about a 
 foot long by nine inches high, in which are drawn and 
 coloured after nature, infe£ts, reptiles, cruilaceous ani- 
 mals, &c. Among them we particularly remark the 
 bee, the wafp, feveral fpecies of the dragon-fly, crickets, 
 grafshoppers, fpiders, cock -roaches, a variety of flies, 
 wood-lice, millepedes, beautiful butterflies and cater- 
 pillars, fnails, the toad, the frog, the= crab, the moun- 
 tain crab, the mabouya, the fmall lizard, the viper, <S:c. 
 
 The truth with which every thing is reprefented, 
 even in the moll minute details, the beautiful colours 
 which cmbellifh thofe different animals, and which 
 feem flill inore brilliant in the butterflies., cannot fail 
 to charm the eve of the naturalifl. 
 
 /■LOWERS. 
 
 Three volumes containing a hundred and forty-eight 
 drawings of flowers, drawn and coloured after nature* 
 
 In 
 
gi8 NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 In three of thefe volumes, ana particularly in one of* 
 them which contains fifty- eight drawings, each flower 
 is feen upon a bit of the plant, fhrub, or tree, to which 
 it belongs, fo that a judgment may be formed of the' 
 colour and nature of the bark; of that of the leaves, of 
 all the parts of efflorefcence, and fometimes even of thofe 
 of fructification. 
 
 Among thefe flowers, of which the greater part to 
 other parts of the world, are the everlafting, the poppy, 
 different kinds of rofes, the narcifTus, fun-flower, 
 lilack, various fpecies of pinks, the auricula, grenadilla, 
 balfam, tube rofe, great nightihade, apocynum, the flower 
 of tobacco, of the cotton-tree, of the orange, of the pal- 
 machrifti, &c. 
 
 It would be impoffibleto exprefs the truth with which 
 tliefe flowers are painted. The talents of the Chinefa. 
 in this way are well known, and a well -merited homage' 
 js paid to them on feeing what they have produced in 
 this colle&ion. The eye is as much delighted as it can 
 be by an imitation which exhibits ail the grace and all 
 the delicacy of the original. 
 
 Each drawing is fifteen inches high by twelve broad. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 A volume in which are forty eight drawings of four- 
 teen inches high by eleven broad", exhibiting an equal 
 number of fruits almoft always placed upon a bit of the 
 branch, and fometirjies even upon the flowers. 
 
 The 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINCS, &C. 319 
 
 The apple, pear, grape, peach, plumb, pomgranate, 
 Le-tchi, rofe, apple, {la pomme rofe) y fhaddock, walnut, 
 the averrhoa, orange, banana, &c. &c. are among the 
 productions inferted in this volume; and the juft praife 
 given to the flowers is alfo due to the fruit. 
 
 PLANTS, TREES, SHRUBS. 
 
 A volume containing thirty-fix drawings fifteen 
 Inches and a half long by thirteen inches high. 
 
 Thefe are fo many trees kept in a dwarf itate. They 
 rcfemble little old men, who fhould unite the charac- 
 teriflicks of youth and vigour with thofe of age. This 
 clafs of vegetables in which man has ftrangely afTociated 
 the two extremes, are much efteemed in China, and cul- 
 tivated with great care in their courts and gardens. 
 
 They are painted and coloured after nature, and re- 
 prefented entire ; fo that an exa'f idea may be formed 
 of their general appearance, and of their foliage. For 
 this part of the collection fuch objects have been, fe- 
 le<fted as the Chinefe prize the molt.. 
 
 Truth in the imitation, '-rilliancy of colouring, and 
 beauty of defign, every thing in fhort is united; and to 
 give thefe drawings an additional grace, the painter has 
 put each tree in a vafe of which the form is conftantly 
 elegant, although it varies continually as well as the 
 colours he has chofen, either for the pur'pofe of making 
 
 them 
 
32Q NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 
 
 them harmonize, or contraft agreeably with that of the 
 tree itfelf; in a word, the mod exquifite tafte has <Ji- 
 rc£led the whole of this work. 
 
 Independently of thefe thirty-eight volumes, contain- 
 ing about eighteen hundred drawings, which I have juft 
 mentioned, and diftinguifhed by the title of M. Van 
 •Braam's Collection of Chinefe Drawings ; independently 
 of a number of maps, charts, and plans, fome of which 
 relate to the prefent work, and of drawings that are not 
 contained in the thirty-eight volumes already enume- 
 rated, M. Van-Braam has brought over a very confide- 
 rable number of other curious things, which are in- 
 tended to ornament his houfe and apartments ; and of 
 which the nature and tafte are calculated to fuit their 
 deftination. 
 
 Among thefe things I mufl particularly fpccify four. 
 
 One is a vale of rock cryftal, fupported by the trunk 
 of a tree, and embellifiied with a garland of flowers. 
 This vafe, which is eight inches high, and thirteen 
 inches in circumference at the middle, confifts with all 
 its acccfibries of a fingle ftone. This beautiful cup, tha 
 dimenfions of which alone would make it a rarity, is 
 ajfo delerving of admiration, on account of its external 
 workmanihip, which is exquifitely finifhed, and on ac- 
 count of the labour to hollow it and poliih the infide. 
 
 The fecond confifts of two pictures three feet long by 
 two feet high, in each of which, upon a tree of brown 
 landal wood, ornamented with branches, leaves, and 
 
 flowers, 
 
NOTICE OF DRAWINGS, &C. 321 
 
 flowers, of different kinds, fkilfully (haded, are fifty birds, 
 making twenty five couple, all of ivory, and coloured 
 after nature, 
 
 Tafie lias fo happily prefided over the compofition of 
 thefe pictures, that the eye difcovers without effort the 
 male and female of each fpecies, while the diverfity of 
 plumage is calculated to improve the appearance of the 
 whole, and to give to each part its peculiar beauty. The 
 advantage to be drawn from a variety of attitudes is not 
 to be overlooked ; and they ferve aifo to indicate fome- 
 thing of the particular character of the different birds of 
 which this delightful affemblage is formed. 
 
 The third is a fur tout de table executed in China, ac- 
 cording to the ideas of M. Yan-Braam : it is compofed 
 of feventeen detached pieces. 
 
 The middle one, thirty-fix inches high, with a bafe 
 of eight fides {pans) twenty-eight inches long by twenty* 
 two broad, is made in the Chinefe fafhion : that is to 
 iay, it reprefents rocks interfperfed with pagodas, human 
 figures, bridges, trees, fruit, flowers, quadrupeds, birds, 
 infects, &c. The greater part of thefe things are of 
 filver wrought in different coloured filligree, while 
 the fruit and flowers are of coral, amber, and other fub- 
 ftances equally valuable, and eveij of precious ftones. 
 To this affemblage, at once pidturefque, noble, and ele- 
 gant, are added bafons and ftreams of water, in which 
 are fiih and cruftaceous animals of a variety of kinds, 
 and of the mod brilliant and flriking appearance. 
 
 Vol. H. Y The 
 
322 NOTICE OF DRAWI^CS, &C 
 
 The two other principal pieces, or bouts de tabh r 
 which are each twenty-fix inches high, with an octagonal 
 bafe twenty-two inches long by eighteen inches broad, 
 correfpond in beauty and richncfs with the middle piece, 
 and are of analogous compofition. 
 
 AH the three difplay a considerable degree of magni- 
 ficence refulting from the nature of the objects thus 
 brought together. The eye is attracted by them all, 
 and when after having wandered from part to part, de- 
 lighted with fo much variety, it begins to diftinguilh 
 the different things employed in thefe noble compo- 
 sitions, it {till hefitates between their different beauties, 
 before the moment comes when its enjoyments are re- 
 newed, almoft incefiantly, by a minute examination of 
 each pagoda, of each figure, of each tree, and of each 
 animal; everyone feeming to claim a preference con- 
 tinually difputed by the reft. 
 
 Eight other pieces confift of a like number of flower 
 or fruit bearing trees, furrounded by plants, which add 
 to their effect by harmonies and contrails equally happy. 
 The coloured gold and filver, the filligram work, the 
 amber, the coral, and precious ftoncs which ornament 
 them, and emberlifh their different parts, are an addi- 
 tional gratification to the eye. Thevalfo contain difhes 
 intended for ragouts and the lighter kinds of viands, 
 which are rendered more inviting by the elegant way 
 in which they are ferved up. 
 
 Finally, fix other pieces, ferving as fo many lufires, 
 
 round which trees, fruits, flowers, and animals are 
 
 2 placed 
 
NOTICE CF DRAWINGS, &C $2$ 
 
 placed, as if on purpofe, that the light of the candles may 
 exhibit to the greater advantage both their graceful and 
 lingular forms, and the genius with which the Chihefe 
 artifl has reprefented every thing, compleat a whole that 
 the amateur can never fufficiently admire. 
 
 I am fenfible that it is eafy for a perfon who has not 
 feen this fur tout de table, which is calculated to embelliih 
 the moft diftinguifhed feftival, to think that flattery has 
 directed the pen of him who defcribes it; but any one 
 who has examined it with the attention it deferves, will 
 reproach my oen with having weakened the imprefiion 
 it has attempted to re-produce. 
 
 The fourth thing I have to fpeak of, is a collection of 
 more than a hundred figures and other articles, all of 
 bamboo, which fhew to what extent fculpture is car- 
 Tied in China, and what degree of perfection a Chineie 
 hand is capable of arriving at in that delicate fort of 
 work. 
 
 Since I have fpoken of two of the pictures of M. Van- 
 Braam, I mult, add that in his collection of articles of that 
 kind, there are alfo a great number of copies made by 
 Chinefe painters, either in miniature or oil, and painted, 
 on canvafs, glafs, or ivory, from feveral fubjects, ori- 
 ginally painted in Europe, and particularly in France. 
 Thefe copies derive from the brilliancy of the colours, 
 and from the ornaments added in China, particularly 
 thofe of the vegetable kingdom, a merit peculiar to 
 themfelves. 
 
 Y2 In 
 
g24 NOTICE OT DRAWINGS, Sic. 
 
 In fhort, the furniture, ornaments, every thing at 
 M. Van-Braam's remind us of China ; and the eftate he 
 lias bought for his own refidence at fix leagues from 
 Philadelphia, and at a league from Briftol, and which he 
 takes a pleafure in embelliihing after the manner of the 
 country he has lately left, will merit, in more than one 
 refpeft, the name of The Chineje Retreat, which he ha$ 
 given it. 
 
 The Editor. 
 
 [The public will learn with pleafure that M. Van-Braam has offered this 
 valuable collection to the Executive Directory of the French Republic ; that 
 the Minifter for Foreign Affairs, who is not ignorant of its merit, and who 
 will not be accufed of lofing any opportunity of favouring artifts and the arts, 
 bas accepted this handforrtt offer in the name of the government ; and that 
 every one will foon have it in his power to compare the colleflion with the 
 account given by the editor.] 
 
 AfW 
 

 Date Due 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Form 335— 40M— 6-40 
 
4 / 
 
 915.1 B794A v. 2 
 
 Br a s m 
 
 427234 
 
 Authentic A o co unt Qf The 
 
 ?,Tnh.g.ff.gy Of Thft ?.g r.t-Tnri 1 a 
 
 ISSUED TO 
 
 915.1 3794A v. 2 
 
 427254