] ] ] ( 3 3 1 WILLIAM R. PERKINS LIBRARY ing, and appear- , and by ible, and ruption ; some and Sear and icine DUKE UNIVERSITY NA DONNA is extremely simple and easy to learn, and does all kinds of family sewing in most superior style. In its construc¬ tion the DEFECTS Of OTHER MA¬ CHINES have been AVOIDED. ICE COMPLETE, £4 4s. TREADLE, 30 /- 35 /- EXTRA. A variety of Machines always in Stock. WHIGHT & M 12, HOLBOKN BARS, LO 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON. Illustrated Catalogues of 500 other Articles, for Home or Continental Travelling, Post-free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. Wardrobe Portmanteau. Quadruple Portmanteau. THE SIMPLE. E FFECTIVE COMPACT. E WASHER. WILL WASH ANY ARTICLE FROM BABY LINEN TO BLANKETS, IN FROM 2 to 5 Minutes. ?he Home Washer, as shown with Combined Wringer and Mangle, £6 6s. and £8 8s. If fitted with India Rubber Wringer, £5 fis. and £7 7s. LISTS FREE. CARRIAGE PAID TO ALL PRINCIPAL STATIONS. BELL & COMPANY, 491, Oxford Street, London, W-C. POSSESSING ALL THE PROPERTIES OF THE FINEST ARUO WROOT, BROWN AND POISON’S COEN ELOTTE Is a Household Requisite of Constant Utility, The following are some of the most approved RECIPES for the preparation of BEOWN AND POLSON’S COEN FLOUE. SULTANA PUDDING. —Nearly four table-spoonfuls of the Flour, or three and a half ounces, to one quart of milk ; boil eight minutes, stirring it briskly ; then thoroughly mix it with two eggs well beaten with three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and add Sultana Raisins at discretion. Pour into pie-dish, and bake till brown. For plain pudding omit the eggs. BLANC-MANGE. —Take one quart of milk and mix it with four ounces, or four table-spoonfuls of the Flour ; flavour to taste, then boil the whole eight minutes, allow it to cool in a mould, and serve up with milk and jelly, or milk and sugar. Another way is : Slake the Corn Flour in cold milk, and stir it into a quart of boiling milk, adding one or two eggs, a very small pinch of salt, and a bit of butter the size of a cherry ; serve cool. Five dessert-spoonfuls of Cocoa-essence and three ounces of sugar added to the blanc-mange ingredients produce a most agree¬ able result. FOR BREAKFAST AND SUPPER.-It requires simply to be boiled with milk, and may be taken with sugar or milk. For Invalid use as Arrowroot, prepare in the usual way. JELLY FOR INVALIDS. —Mix in a tumbler a tea¬ spoonful of Corn Flour with a little cold water, pour upon it suffi¬ cient boiling water to form a clear jelly, stirring it well during the time the water is being poured on it, then add a glass of Sherry. Note. —The claim of another Corn Flour to be “the best,” is entirely groundless, and the imperfect quotation from The Lancet, which is being used in support of this pretension does not convey the opinion of that journal. Vide Lancet, Nov. 13, 1875. SOLE LONDON ADDRESS- QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, E.C. 8Sa*0WAV. LONDON'. GE.ORCE ROUTLEOCE Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/routledgesguidet01geor 1. The New M< 3. Thftmei Embankment 'KouVkdqe, £rrr\ Publishers , Uoedo A-. ROUTLEDGfE’S GUIDE TO LONDON AND ITS SUBURBS: COMPBISING Jkstription; of all its joints of |ntesf, INCLUDING THE MOST RECENT IMPROVEMENTS AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS NEW EDITION, REVISED AND IMPROVED, a®itl) ©viginal Illustrations, a JJWap, anO Intici. A mighty mass of brick and smoke, and shipping, Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye Can reach . . . Amidst the foresty Of masts, a wilderness of steeples peeping— A huge dun cupola, like a foolscap crown On a fool's head—ami there is London town.— Byron. LONDON: GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, THE BROADWAY, LUDGATE. NEW YOKE; 416, BKOOME STREET. A FEW HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. It is always safe and well, on a journey, to have some good medicine, in a convenient form, that may be readily resorted to in ease of the sudden illnesses or accidents, to which persons tra¬ velling are especially exposed. After a long and varied expe¬ rience, we have found the Pain Killer to more nearly answer this description, and better meet the wants of travellers on business or pleasure, than any remedy we know of. Mr. A. Hunting, M.D., says of it: “I have travelled a good deal since I came to Kansas, but never without taking the Pain Killer with me. I use it freely in my practice, especially for Cholera, and with better success than any other medicine.” Rev. H. M. Bixby, of Burmah, writes: “ Tour Pain Killer is very popular here. I always carry it with me in myjour- neyings, for my own safety, and the good of the people I meet.” Capt. Allyn, of the Packet Ship Louvre, found it so valuable among his passengers as well as crew that he seldom had occa¬ sion to use any other medicine. “ On my passage home,” he writes, “ with 164 passengers, the Pain Killer was my sole de¬ pendence in all cases of illness and accidents, and it never failed to give immediate relief. I have always found it safe, convenient, and reliable—a real Pain Killer.” Rev. W. C. Van Meter, of New York, the “ Little Wanderers’ Friend,” says, “ I believed it saved my life while in Rome, last summer, where I had a sudden and severe attack of Cholera.” Mr. T. Perry, Red Lion Square, London, says, “ It cured me of a severe attack of gout, a disease to which I had long been subject, in little over a week.” But space fails us to give a tithe of what we could say in its favour, but we can most confidently recommend it for a sudden cold, and the soreness that follows a hard day’s walking, or exposure to wet, as well as for headache, neuralgia, or any similar affection. It is a never-failing remedvfoi- diarrhoea, dysentery, and cholera, when taken in time. One dose will often cure a sick headache or sea-sickness, and a bruise or sprain is soon healed under its influence. It can be found at almost any respectable chemist’s or medicine vendor’s, with full directions for use. Try it, and you will thank us for the suggestion. Get circular with directions of any Chemist, or of PERRY DAVIS & SON, 17, Southampton Row, London. Price of the Pain Killer, Is. ljrf., 2s. 9 cl., 4s. Gd., and 11s. ;per Bottle. Inhaler in Case complete, 2s. Gd. 9M.£t ADVERTISEMENT. In publishing a Guide to London, two difficulties have to he surmounted : two dangers to be avoided. The difficulties are to include in a small volume such infor¬ mation as may be easily referred to and useful when found ; the dangers are those of being either too tedious or too dry, of making the book an unready reference, or a mere index. It may be hoped that this little volume has successfully taken the middle course, and that while its whole contents may easily be scanned and remembered by the visitor who wishes to discover something of London localities and their associations, it will be turned to with interest by wayfarers who would be bored and puzzled by a mere catalogue of places to which they were directed by no regular plan. The Map and the Illustrations have been specially prepared to exhibit some of the latest important changes and great public improvements, and the descriptions of places and how to see them, are intended to serve as a pleasant and familiar introduction to the great metropolis. CONTENTS. Introduction. page London, political, moral, intellectual, and religious ... 1 General Description. Situation—Extent—Suburbs—The river and the streets— Political and other divisions.2 Population. Census from 1801 to 1871—Births and deaths in hospitals, prisons, &c.5 Historical Survey. Distances of capitals of various countries from London— Origin—Roman occupation—London-stone—Etymology —The City gates—London-wall—British London—Saxon London—Norman London—Wards—Civic importance— Magna Charta—Poll-tax—Fires, famines, and plagues— Taxes—Rebellions and sicknesses—Religious dissensions —Conspiracies and invasions—Guy Fawkes’ conspiracy— Great plague—Great fire—Rebuilding the City—Great storm and loss of lives and property—Great frost—The Gordon riots—Royal jubilee—The revolution—Present condition .G How Best to See London. Plan of the streets—Aspect of the streets—Rural walks round the City—Dark places and mysteries—Suburbs and manufacturing districts—Fashion and poverty contrasted —Peeps at Belgravia and Bethnal-green—Rags, poverty, and wretchedness.20 Hints and Cautions for Strangers. Diagram of main thoroughfares—Principal omnibus routes —Hints to strangers—Cab fares—Corps of Commission¬ aires—Railways—Steam boats—Hotels, apartments, and CONTENTS. V dining-rooms—Luncheon-bars and pastry-cooks—Exhibi¬ tions, museums, amusements, &c.—Theatres, with their situation, prices of admission, &c.31 The Bank to Charing-cross. Bank—Royal Exchange—Mansion House—Civil Govern¬ ment—Parochial arrangements—Thames Embankment— Metropolitan Improvements—Poultry—Cheapside—Bow Church—Guildhall — St. Paul’s Cathedral — St. Paul’s Churchyard — St. Paul’s School — Doctors’ Commons — Ludgate-hill — Blackfriars-bridge — Fleet-street — The Temple—Temple Bar—The Strand—St. Clement Danes — Newspaper Offices — St. Mary-le-Strand — Somerset nouse —Waterloo-bridge — The Savoy — The Adelphi— Society of Arts—Exeter Hall—Covent Garden Market— St. Paul’s Church—Trafalgar-square—Royal Academy— National Gallery—Charing-cross—King Charles’ Statue— St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields—Northumberland House . . . 55 Post-Office to Marble-Arch. Post-Office — St. Martin’s-Ie-Grand — Newgate-street — Christ’s Hospital—Newgate—Old Smithfield—St. Bar¬ tholomew’s Hospital—St. Sepulchre’s Church—Furnival’s Inn—Gray’s Inn—Lincoln’s Inn—New Oxford-street— British Museum — Oxford-street—Princess’s Theatre — Tottenham-court-road — University College — Cavendish and Hanover-squares — Marble-Arch — Hyde Park — Tyburnia.91 ■Whitehall to Vauxhall. Whitehall—The Admiralty and IIorse-Guards—St. James’s Park—The Government Offices—Westminster Abbey— Westminster Hall—The Sanctuary — Victoria-street— Westminster School—Millbank Penitentiary—Vauxhall- bridge, &c.108 A Stroll about the West-End. Her Majesty’s Theatre — Pall Mall — St. James’s — Club Houses—Piccadilly—Regent’s Quadrant and Regent-street —St. James’s-park — Brompton — Kensington Gardens and Palace—Regent’s I’ark—Zoological Gardens—Houses of the Nobility. 11 ) V CONTENTS. PAGE From the Bank Eastward. Cornhill—Stock Exchange—Lothbury—Bishopsgate-street —Leadenhall-street — Gracechurch-street—The Tower— The Custom House—The Trinity House—The Mint—St. Katherine’s Docks—London Docks—The Commercial Docks—The East and West India Docks—Thames Tunnel —Commercial-road — Blackwall Railway — Limehouse Church — Bow-road—Mile-end—Victoria Park—Shore¬ ditch—Whitechapel and Aldgate—London Hospital— Islington.137 Over the Water. The Monument—London-bridge—London-bridge Railway Terminus—The Church of St. Saviour’s, Southwark — Bankside—St. Thomas’s Hospital—Guy’s Hospital—St. George the Martyr—The Marshalsea Prison—The Queen’s Bench Prison—The Elephant and Castle—Metropolitan Tabernacle—St. George’s Cathedral—Bethlehem Hospital —The Obelisk—New-Cut—London Terminus of the South-Western Railway—Lambeth Palace.158 Windsor to Ramsgate bt the River. The Thames—Eton—Windsor Castle—Windsor Park and Forest — Hampton Court — Kingston-upon-Thames — Bushey Park—Richmond—Kew—Twickenham—Green¬ wich— Blackheath—Woolwich —Gravesend — Rochester and Chatham—Herne Bay, Margate, and Ramsgate . . 188 Memoranda. Places of interest about town — Principal Churches, Hospitals, Banks, Bazaars, City Companies, Railway Stations London Police, Postal Regulations, &c. . . . 187 ILLUSTRATIONS, Skeleton Map ( Frontispiece). New Public Works. New Meat Market, Holborn Viaduct, Thames Embankment— (to face Title). Churches. Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, St. George’s Cathedral, Temple Church, St. Martin’s-in-tho-Fields, St. Stephen’s, Wal- brook; St. Bride’s, St. Mary-le-Bow, St. Saviour’s, South¬ wark ; Rowland Hill’s Chapel, Mr. Spurgeon’s Tabernacle. Palaces. Buckingham, Kensington, St. James’s, Whitehall, Lambeth. Schools. Christ’s Hospital, St. Paul’s, Westminster, Charterhouse, University College, Merchant Taylors’, King’s College, City of London. Government Buildings. Treasury, Tower, Admiralty, Mint, Somerset House, Houses of Parliament, Westminster Hall, &c. Museums and Picture Galleries. British, Soane’s, and South Kensington Museums; National Gallery, Dulwich College, College of Surgeons, Society of Arts. Commercial Buildings. Bank of England, Mansion House, General Post Office, Guild¬ hall, Royal Exchange, Stock Exchange, Custom House, Trinity House. Club Houses. Athenaeum, Conservative, Carlton, United Service, Army and Navy. Hospitals. St. Bartholomew’s, Guy’s, St. George’s, St. Thomas’s, West¬ minster, King’s College, Bethlehem, Brompton, Chelsea, Greenwich. ILLUSTRATIONS. vii Theatres. Corent Garden, Drury Lane, Her Majesty’s, Haymarket, Lyceum, Adelpki, Princess’s. Exhibitions. Crystal Palace, Egyptian Hall, Polytechnic, Cremorne, Agri¬ cultural Hall, Alexandra Palace. Music Halls. St. James’s Hall, the Oxford, the Canterbury, Exeter Hall the Alhambra, Crystal Palace Concert Boom. Kailway Stations. Midland, Paddington, Charing Cross, Metropolitan (Gower- street). Markets, Docks, &c. Covent Garden, Billingsgate, Coal Exchange, Corn Exchange, London Docks, East and West India, St. Katherine’s, Victoria. Bridges. London, Southwark, Blackfriars, Waterloo, Hungerford, Westminster, Vauxhall, Hammersmith. Prisons. Newgate, Pentonville, Millbank, Westminster Bridewell, Wliitecross-street, Horsemonger-lane, Holloway. ROUTLEDGE’S POPULAR GUIDE TO LONDON. INTRODUCTION. “ I have often amused myself with thinking how different a place London is to different people. They whose narrow minds are contracted to a consideration of some one particular pursuit, view it only through that medium. A politician thinks of it merely as the seat of government; a grazier, as a vast market for cattle; a mercantile man, as a place where a prodigious deal of business is done upon ’Change ; a dramatic enthusiast, as the grand scene of theatrical entertainments; a man of pleasure, as an assemblage of taverns. But the intellectual man is struck with it as comprehending the whole of human life in all its variety, the contemplation of which is inexhaus¬ tible.”— Boswell. London is tlie political, moral, physical, intellectual, artistic, literary, commercial, and social centre of the world. In no other city are so many distinct aspects presented ; in no other city are so many individual traits and peculiarities observable ; no other city possesses the wealth, the importance, and the abounding population which distinguish it. To London, as the true centre of the world, come ships from every clime, bearing the pro¬ ductions of nature, the results of labour, and the fruits of commerce. Railways converge to it, and science, art, discovery, and invention seek it as their true home. Its merchants are princes, and the resolves of its financiers make and unmake empires, and influence the destinies of nations. A visit to London, at once the metropolis of civilization and the British Empire, is an almost inevitable necessity with those who possess means and leisure ; and in these days of iron roads and steam-horses the stranger may reach London at but little cost of time or money. Foreigners are every day becoming better acquainted with its public building's, its docks, its bazaars, warehouses, shoes, fl 2 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON. squares, and interminable and crowded streets. The in¬ habitants of the cities and towns in the provinces, and even villagers, agricultural labourers, and others among what we may call the stay-at-home population, have now and again some mighty and attracting power which draws them from their homes and brings them to London; and once within the circle of its spell, every stranger endeavours to accomplish the greatest possible amount of sight-seeing in the smallest space of time and in the most economical manner. To visit London at least once in a lifetime, and to carry back to far-off homes some pleasant memories and some profitable facts, seems the reasonable wish of thousands. The purpose of this “Guide” is to provide the “facts,” and to assist the stranger in so seeing the Great Metropolis that the pleasure of his visit may not become a toil. We commence our task, then, by giving some of those items of general information which every visitor seeks in a guide-book. GENERAL DESCRIPTION.—London, the capital of Great Britain, is one of the most ancient, perhaps the most ancient, of our cities. It is situated about sixty miles from the sea on the river Thames, which divides it into two unequal halves. The northern half contains the Houses of Parliament, the palaoes, parks, principal docks, and public and private buildings; the southern half consists principally of manufactories, warehouses, shops, and private houses. The banks of the river on either side are lined with wharves and docks from Black- wall to the City, and thence to Westminster by embank¬ ments of masonry which, if ever completed on both sides, will make of its shores two of the finest promenades in the world. The river is crossed by several bridges, which unite the northern and southern sides into one great city, or rather, collection of cities. London extends into four counties—Middlesex, Surrey, Kent, and Essex, but by far the largest portion is con¬ tained in the county of Middlesex. It consists of the City, or London proper, with twenty-six “wards” and several “liberties;” the out-parislies of the city; the City of Westminster; and seven Parliamentary boroughs, namely, Marylebone, Finsbury, Southwark, Lambeth, Chelsea, Hackney, and the Tower Hamlets. Each of these boroughs returns two members to the House of Com¬ mons ; Westminster returns two, and the City of London four ; in all, twenty. Westminster Abbey. 2. St. George’s Cathedral. S. Temple CRurch St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 5. St. Paul’s Cathedral. 6. Rowland Hill’s Cnapel. St. Saviour’s, Southwark 8. St. Stephen’s, Walbrook 9. St. Bride’s, Fleet St. 10. Mr. Spurgeou ’s Tabernacle. 11. St. Mary-le-Bow SOIL, SITUATION, EXTENT, ETC. 3 London is generally said to be about thirty miles in circumference, but its extent as defined by the legislature for parliamentary purposes is only “ the circumference of a circle, the radius of which is of the length of three miles from the General Post Office,” which gives a circum¬ ference of only about twenty miles—evidently too re¬ stricted a space if we include within the term London its outlying suburbs. London, as defined by the Registrar- General, extends north and south between Norwood and Hampstead, and east and west between Hammersmith and Woolwich. This area is 122 square miles. The outlying suburbs are—Hampstead, Holloway, High- gate, Kilburn, Tottenham, and Edmonton on the north; Camberwell, Brixton, Dulwich, Peckham, Norwood, Lew¬ isham, and Sydenham on the south; Stratford, Lime- house, Poplar, Blackwall, and Greenwich on the east; and Chelsea, Battersea, Wandsworth, Putney, Fulham, Hammersmith, and Acton on the west. For postal pur¬ poses, however, London embraces all places within a circuit of twelve miles from the General Post Office, and includes the well-known villages, market towns, and rural suburbs of Anerley, Barking, Bexley, Bromley, Bushey Park, Cheshunt, Chigwell, Crayford, Deptford, Ealing, Eltham, Erith, Foot’s Cray, Greenwich (a parlia¬ mentary borough), Hampton, Harrow, Hornsey, Houns¬ low, Ilford, Isleworth, Kingston, Lea, Leytonstone, Loughton, Merton, Mitcham, Mortlake, New Cross, Old Ford, Penge, Plaistow, Pluinstead, Queen's Elm, Rain- ham, Richmond, Roehampton, Romford, Shacklewell, Sudbury, Sydenham, Turnham Green, Twickenham, Upton, Valentines, Waltham, Willesden, Wimbledon, Woodford, and Woolwich. This is, perhaps, rather too wide an area; the real extent of the metropolis being generally given as follows:—the north side, embracing the “City” and Westminster, with the boroughs of Finsbury, Marylebone, Hackney, and the Tower Hamlets, contains a superficies of about forty-three square miles, the ground rising from the river about thirty-six feet to the mile, while the southern portion, containing the boroughs of Southwark and Lambeth, the parishes of Deptford, Peckham, &c., has an area of nine square miles, nearly on a dead level, and much of the land below the highest tides in the Thames. London lies principally in a valley, surrounded by gently-rising hills. Like ancient Babylon, it is built generally of brick, upon a fine gravelly soil or a kind of b 2 4 PEINCIPAL LOCAL AND SOCIAL DIVISIONS. clay, known as the “ London clay,” which rests on a bed of gravel. It is, taking it altogether, certainly one of the best drained, best paved, best lighted, and best ven¬ tilated cities in Europe, perhaps in the world, and there¬ fore, it is one of the healthiest cities within the area of civilization. It is drained by sewers, which run beneath the streets in all directions, and empty themselves into vast main drains, by which the sewage of the metropolis and its suburbs is carried to a considerable distance down the river, into which it is discharged from enormous outfalls by the aid of pumps and steam machinery. This gigantic work was commenced in 1859, and is now completed. To the stranger, London presents the aspect of inter¬ minable streets, the greater part of which are of commo¬ dious width, with houses of a sombre and rather dingy look, caused by the use of large quantities of coal fuel. Lately, however, stone-fronted and stuccoed houses have been erected in all the principal avenues. Practically, London is divided into five principal di¬ visions—the City, the West-eml, the East-end, the Northern suburbs, and the South, or “ over the water,” as it is called. Other social divisions have been adopted of late years. Thus, we are familiar with such terms as Belgravia, Tyburnia, &c. The Thames flows right through the city from west to east, and the principal lines of streets take that direction, though some important thoroughfares run directly north and south. Every street is paved with flat flagstones for foot passengers, and generally granite blocks for roadways, but occasion¬ ally asphalte and wood have been employed. In the suburbs the roadways are mostly macadamized, that is, laid with broken granite, which soon forms a hard and permanent pavement. In the more closely in¬ habited streets the houses directly face the pathway, but in the airy suburbs slips of garden, with iron rail¬ ings in front, divide the roadway from the buildings. Many of the private houses have half-sunk areas. These houses commonly contain about two or three rooms on a floor, and are generally three stories in height—small buildings, in fact, compared to those seen in continental cities and in Edinburgh, where the custom of letting houses in flats or floors is common. Wooden stairs run from basement to attic, and stone steps, except when they faco the streets, are the exception. This of course refers only to private dwellings; publio buildings, POPULATION—DECENNIAL INCREASE. 5 palaces, churches, and large commercial offices being ordinarily constructed of stone, and in the most hand¬ some and substantial manner. POPULATION, &c.—The number of inhabitants within London is about 3,500,000. In an area of about 122 square miles, these inhabitants occupy 500,000 houses, forming nearly 11,000 streets, squares, terraces, places, lanes, &c. The average number of persons to each house is 7‘8, and there are 4,000,000 persons living within a radius of 15 miles from Charing Cross. The average density of the population is 40 persons to an acre, or 25,655 to a square mile, a density 100 times greater than that of the United Kingdom generally. At the accession of James I. London was estimated to contain about 150,000 inhabitants—about as many persons as go to make a good sized county town in our day. The gradual increase in population will be seen from a comparison of the following figures, which show the numbers at eight decennial periods in the present century, according to the census returns. 1801 . 864,845 1811 . 1,009,546 1821 . 1,225,694 1831 . 1,474,069 1841 . 1,870,727 1851 . 2,362,236 1861 . 2,803,921 1871 . 3,300,000 But taking the population of the Metropolitan Police district, we shall arrive at a number much above four millions—a population perfectly Chinese in its density ; and when we come to consider that, according to the income-tax returns, three-fourths of those paying the tax in the metropolitan districts are living on incomes of less than £300, and the great mass on less than £100 a year, we shall arrive at a fair approximation of the industrial character of the inhabitants. Of course these returns are not to be taken as strictly accurate. A glance at the palatial mansions in the suburbs, particularly Brompton, Kensington, St. John’s Wood, Bayswater, and Hamp¬ stead, ought to enlighten us on this point. In London a child is born every five minutes, and somebody dies every eight minutes. The rate of mor¬ tality is, however, very low — when compared with that of other cities in Europe, less than 25 per cent. HISTORICAL SURVEY. 6 or 1 in 50 dying in the course of an average year. Of these about 1 in 6 die in hospitals, prisons, or workhouses. For the relief of pauperism there is every week collected and distributed upwards of £30,000. And this, too, in addition to thousands con¬ tributed to the hospitals and various charities with which our modern Babylon abounds. In a word, London is not only the most vast, the most wealthy, the most densely populated, and the most politically important city in Europe, but it is also the most charitable and the most social of capitals. HISTORICAL SURVEY.—Perhaps no city has had more written about it, or more fiction invented in its honour than London. Poets and historians, topographers and statisticians, have each and all exulted in its greatness and power. Johnson, Gray,andSouthey have severally cele¬ brated its praises in flowing verse; and the late Eugenius Roche, many years editor of the Courier newspaper, in a long poem anticipated what it might he a thousand years hence, and thus forestalled the celebrated New Zealander of Lord Macaulay. He pictures a civilized savage standing on the ruins of the city, and exclaiming— “Here London stood, and gloried in her might! Babylon, where are thy merchants now? * * * They have been, And are forgotten. Their names have passed, Their arts have perished, and their land is wild.” But Southey takes a more liberal and hopeful view, for he calls it “ A spacious city The seat where England from her ancient reign Doth rule the ocean as her own domain.” London, the far-famed metropolis of the British Empire, and the emporium of the world’s commerce, sits proudly on the banks of the Thames, in latitude 51° 31' north, and longitude 0°5' 37" westofthe meridian of Greenwich. Its distance and bearings from the principal cities of Europe are—From Edinburgh, 395 miles south; from Dublin, 338 miles south-east; Amsterdam, 190 miles west; Paris, 225 miles north-north-west; Copenhagen, 610 miles south-west; Vienna, 820 miles north-west; Rome, 950 miles north-west; Constantinople, 1660 miles north-west; Moscow, 1661 miles east-south-east; St. Petersburg!:, 1140 miles south-west; Stockholm, 750 BOMAN LONDON.—MABSHES. 7 miles south-west; Berlin, 540 miles west; and Lisbon 850 miles north-north-east. Although the true origin of London is certainly un¬ known, it was probably founded in days long prior to the Christian era; since Tacitus, in his account of the revolt of the Iceni under Boadieea, which broke out in the year Gl, describes the London of that day as the “ chief resi¬ dence of merchants,” and the “ great mart of trade and commerce.” London was indebted for its foundation to the Celtic Britons ; its natural situation being such as that people were accustomed to select for the site of their fortified towns. In its ancient state, it was protected on the northern side by an extensive morass (of which the name Moorfields now only remains,) and an immense forest, which even so late as the reign of Henry II., was filled with various species of beasts of sport. Portions of this forest still exist in Enfield chase, Epping, and Hain- ault forests, Finchley Common, &c. Its eastern side was bounded by the high grounds now forming the site of the Tower, and Tower-hill, and the marshes beyond, extend¬ ing from Wapping into Essex. Its southern side was defended by the Thames and the marshes of Surrey ; and its western limit was skirted by the creek of the Fleet river, which was once navigable, if tradition may be credited, as far as Pancras Church. The most decided proofs of the Roman occupation of ancient London are to be found in the numerous remains of buildings, tesselated pavements, coins, urns, rings, penates, earthenware, and other articles used by the Romans, that have been dug up in the very heart of the city ; and many similar antiquities have also been met with in digging in its vicinage. The famous London Stone (which is mentioned in history as remotely as the Saxon times) is supposed to be a Roman milliary; or, more properly, the milliarium aureum of Britain, from which the Romans began the admeasurement of their roads, as from a centre. Like the Palladium of Troy, it was once regarded with a sort of superstitious veneration, from its being thought to be connected with the safety and flourishing state of the city. It was originally of con¬ siderable magnitude, fixed very deep in the ground, and fastened with iron bars ; but it is now reduced to a frag¬ ment scarcely larger than a bomb-shell, which has been encased in freestone, and fixed against the south wall of St. Swithin’s Church, in Cannon-street, nearly opposite to the spot where it formerly stood. 8 ETYMOLOGY OF LONDON. The etymology of the name of London has been fre¬ quently discussed, though without arriving at any deter¬ minate conclusion. The most probable opinion is, that it was derived from the British Llyn-Din, or, the “ town, or fort, on the lake Llyn being the Celtic term for a lake, or broad expanse of water; and that appearance must have been strikingly exhibited when all the low grounds on the Surrey side of the Thames were over¬ flowed, as well as the marshes extending eastward to the Isle of Dogs and along the Essex shore. Its Roman names, according to Tacitus, were Londinuin and Colonia Augusta. Ammianus Marcellinus, who lived in the reign of Julian the Apostate, mentions it as an ancient place, once called Lundunium , but when he wrote, Augusta; and the same author styles it Augusta Trinobantum, from its being considered as the capital of the Trinobantes. Bede calls it Londonia; and the Saxons named it Lunden- Ceaster , Lunden-Berig, and lunden-Wic. The appellation Augusta is now only retained by the poets ; thus Pope, in his finely imagined personification of the river Thames, introduces it as follows:— “ From his oozy bed Old Father Thames advanc’d his reverend head. His tresses bath’d with dews, and o’er the stream His shining horns diffus’d a golden gleam. “Grav'd on his urn appear’d the moon, that guides His swelling waters and alternate tides; The figur’d streams in waves of silver roll’d. And on their banks Augusta rode in gold.” By this name, likewise, Thomson apostrophizes London in his inimitable “Seasons;” and Congreve has also addressed it by the same appellation. The consequence London attained at a very early period may be satisfactorily deduced from the celebrated Itinerary of Antoninus, by which it appears that no fewer than seven of the fifteen Iters either commence or terminate in this city ; and that it was considered by the Romans as the metropolis of the Island, is established by the fact of its having been made the residence of the vicars-general of Britain under the Roman Emperors. It is probable that London was not walled round till after the massacre of its inhabitants by the Iceni; but subse¬ quently to that event, it was certainly fortified in the Roman manner. The ancient walls commenced at a fort built on the site of the present Tower, and were thence ANCIENT WALLS AND GATES. 9 continued, in a northern direction, to Aid-gate; then curving to the north-west they extended to Bishops-gate, and from the latter, in nearly a straight line, westward to Cripple-gate ; thence, veering towards the south-west, they reached Alders-gate and New-gate, and, turning southward, continued to Lud-gate; at a short distance beyond which they formed an angle, and ran westward to the Fleet river, when, turning to the south, they extended to the Thames. Another wall, of somewhat more than a mile in length, was carried along the skirts of the latter river, to the fort at the Tower. The course of the outer walls was rather more than two miles in extent, and the area which they included was nearly five hundred acres. They were defended, at different distances, by fifteen strong towers and bastions ; the remains of one of which may be seen in Cripplegate-churchyard,and its internal partlately formed the semi-circular end of Barber-Surgeons’ Hall. The height of the walls, when perfect, is thought to have been about twenty-five feet, and that of the towers forty feet. Traces of Roman masonry can be found in the few remains which are now visible, and which are chiefly confined to London-wall, (at the back of Fore-street,) Cripplegate- churchyard, and in the court leading from the Broadway to Little Bridge-street, on the south side of Ludgate-hill. This cannot be wondered at, when it is considered how greatly the ground in all parts of the metropolis has been raised in the course of the many centuries which have elapsed since the Roman times. Wherever the foundations have been uncovered they are found to be composed of rag¬ stone, having single layers of Roman tiles inserted at the distance of every two feet; the tiles were seventeen inches and four-tenths long ; eleven inches and six-tenths broad; and one inch and three-tenths in thickness. From the numerous remains of sepulture which have been dug up, it would appear that the great cemetery of Roman London was in the vicinity of Spitalfields and Goodman’ s-fields. The centre of the Roman city is supposed to have been crossed by Watling-street. Besides the fort near the Tower, the Romans had a specula, or watch-tower, on the north side of the Barbican. There was also a strong outwork on the west side of the Old Bailey; while another fortress is supposed to have occupied the brow of the high ground near the present Printing- house-square, near Apothecaries’-hall. After the Romans withdrew their troops in the fifth century, London again became a British town, and it is 10 SAXON LONDON.—COINAGE. mentioned, in the Saxon Chronicle under the date 457, when the Britons fled hither on their defeat by Hengist. About twenty years afterwards it was surrendered to that chieftain by the impolitic Yortigern ; but after his decease it was retaken by the great Ambrosius, whose nephew, Mordred, was crowned here about the year 532. Within fifty years afterwards, it became subjected to the newly-erected kingdom of Essex ; and on the conversion of the East-Saxons to Christianity, it was nominated a Bishop’s see. Shortly after, between the years 610 and 616, St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey were both founded. During the Saxon Heptarchy nothing is recorded of London, but its occasional sufferings by plague and fire. After the union of the kingdoms under Egbert, it attained increased importance, and King Athelstan, who succeeded Edward the Elder, in 925, had a palace here. Its comparative consequence in his reign may be estimated by the laws respecting coinage ; eight minters being established in London, whilst only seven were al¬ lotted to Canterbury, and six to Winchester, no other town being permitted to have more than three. The Danes repeatedly pillaged and laid it waste; yet, after the accession of Canute, it recovered from these disasters, and its power progressively augmented till the Norman invasion. The defection of the clergy, who traitorously swore fealty to William at Berkhampstead, induced the magistracy of London to join with the prelates and no¬ bility, in inviting that successful adventurer to accept the title of King of England, and he was accordingly crowned at Westminster. Soon after he granted a charter to the citizens (beautifully written in the Saxon language, and still preserved in the city archives), engaging to maintain their accustomed rights. Not being assured of their fidelity, however, he subsequently (anno 1088) built the White Tower, for the purpose of keeping them in awe. In the same reign, also, and unquestionably with his permission, two other strong castles, called Baynard’s and Montfichet’s, were erected within the city walls by two of the Norman chiefs who had accompanied him to Eng¬ land. From this period London may be regarded as the metropolis of the kingdom. The immediate successors of William alternately harassed the city with their usurpations and unlawful acts, and soothed it with new charters to confirm its old privileges or grant new ones, till at length the civil government of London took a form very little different NOEMAN LONDON AND ITS CHAETEES. 11 from that by which it is at present administered.* The title of Portreve was lost in that of Bailiff, Shirereve, or She) iff, and afterwards the title of Mayor, derived from the Norman language, was given to the chief magistrate, and the municipal power became gradually vested in the citizens, uncontrolled by the court. In the reign of Henry I. London obtained an important grant, by the annexation of the county of Middlesex to its jurisdiction, with the power of appointing a sheriff of that county from among themselves. This was done to prevent its being any longer an asylum for culprits, who, having tied from London, lived there in open defiance of those whom they had injured. The King, however, reserved the power to himself of appointing the chief officers of the city ; and though the citizens at this day make their election of their mayor and sheriffs, yet those officers are presented to the Crown for its approval—the mayor to the Lord Chief Baron, and the sheriffs to the cursitor-baron of the King’s Exchequer. In the reign of Edward I. we find the city divided into twenty-four wards (and to these two others have since been added), the magistrate of each of which had the ancient Saxon title of Elderman. Each ward chose also some of the inhabitants as common councilmen, who, being sworn into office, were to be consulted by the aldermen, and their advice followed in all public affairs relative to the city. In the reign of King John the civic importance of London was greatly increased, and the corporation finally assumed that form and predominancy which, with a few alterations, it has maintained till the present time. John granted the city several charters ; by one he empowered the “barons of the city of London” to choose a mayor annually, or to continue the same person from year to year at their own pleasure. In 1212 a dreadful calamity took place, through a fire, which commenced at the bridge-end of Southwark, and was quickly succeeded by another fire at the opposite extremity. Stow relates that about 3000 persons perished, chiefly by drowning. During the contest between the King and Pope Innocent III., London severely felt the consequences of the interdict laid upon the kingdom. In the civil feuds which marked the latter years of J ohn, the Londoners sided with the barons; and when the humbled monarch was compelled to sign Magna Charta, it was therein expressly stipulated that the “city of London should have all its ancient 12 FIRES, FAMINES, AND PLAGUES. privileges and customs as well by land as by water.” The long reign of Henry III. affords but fewevents worthy of notice respecting London, excepting the unworthy con¬ duct of the King, who checked its growing prosperity by a series of extortions and gross oppressions. In 1258 the price of corn was so excessive that a famine ensued, and according to the Chronicles of Evesham, twenty thousand persons died of hunger alone. Between the years 1314 and 1317 the metropolis suffered greatly from famine, although divers ordinances were made by the Parliament to limit the consumption and restrain the prices of pro¬ visions. There followed this famine, says Stow, “ a grievous mortalitie of people, so that the quicke might vnneath [scarcely] bury the dead.” Edward III., at the commencement of his reign, granted to the city two charters ; by the first all its ancient privi¬ leges were confirmed, and additional ones bestowed ; and by the other, Southwark was granted to the citizens in perpetuity. In that reign, also (anno 1354), the privilege was given for gold or silver maces to be carried before the chief magistrate, from which time the imposing baronial appellation of Lord was prefixed to that of Mayor. In 1348, and during several subsequent years, London was afflicted by a dreadful pestilence, which, first breaking out in India, had extended its ravages to every country in Europe. The common cemeteries proved insufficient for the interment of the dead, and various plots of ground without the city walls were assigned for burial-places ; among them was the waste land now forming the pre¬ cinct of the Charter-house, wherein upwards of fifty thousand bodies were deposited. In 1361 the plague was again so destructive that more than two thousand per¬ sons fell victims to it within two days. In November, 1380, 4th of Richard II., an act of par¬ liament was passed for levying a Poll-tax on every person in the kingdom—male or female—above the age of fifteen years. This act was the occasion of producing, in the following year, the Wat Tyler rebellion, one of the most dangerous insurrections that ever threatened the monarchy of this kingdom, in which the metropolis greatly suffered, and which for three weeks seemed to threaten a total subversion of the Government. In the reign of Henry VI. another insurrection arose of so formidable a nature that for several weeks all the power of the Crown was insufficient to quell it. This tumult is supposed to have been raised by the instigation TAXES, BEBELLIONS, AND SICKNESSES. 13 of the Duke of York, in order to sound the inclinations of the people, and prepare the nation for his design of seizing that sceptre which Henry swayed so feebly. By the secret instructions of the duke, Jack Cade, who had served under him in the French wars, assumed the name of Mortimer, and collected a large body of malcontents, under the popular pretext of redress of grievances. They entered the city in triumph, and for some time bore down all opposition, and beheaded the Lord Treasurer, Lord Say, and several other persons of note. On this occasion Cade struck his sword upon the London Stone, and exclaimed, “ Now is Mortimer Lord of London !” The insurgents at length losing ground, a general pardon was proclaimed, and Cade, finding himself deserted by his followers, lied ; but a reward being offered for bis apprehension, he was discovered in the woods at Hothfield, in Kent, and re¬ fusing to surrender, he was killed by the sheriff, Alex¬ ander Iden. In the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. London was greatly afflicted by the sweating sickness, which generally occasioned the death of all whom it attacked within twenty-four hours. In the latter reign the citizens gave such a determined opposition to the king’s attempt to raise money without the aid of Parliament, that the measure was abandoned in full council, and a pardon granted to all who had opposed it. On Henry’s marriage with the Lady Anne Boleyn, in 1535, she was conveyed from Greenwich to the Tower, and thence through the City to Westminster, with all the magnifi¬ cence and pageantry which unbounded prodigality could devise. The remainder of this reign was notorious for the tyranny and cruelty of the king, who, having thrown off the Pope’s supremacy, sacrificed all who adhered to it; yet, professing a zealous attachment to the doctrines of the church of ltome, he put to death all who presumed to differ from him. Hence the promoters of the Reformation and its opposers perished in the same flames; the blood of the Catholic and Protestant was shed upon the same block ; and Henry, whilst vehemently contending against the Pole’s infallibility, supported his own with the most vindictive cruelty. In these sanguinary scenes London had its full share; great numbers, of all ranks, were con¬ tinually executed, either for heresy or treason. The suppression of the monasteries now took place ; oppo¬ sition to the king’s will was fatal; and the partial insur¬ rections that broke out in consequence only served tq 14 BELIGIOUS DISSENSIONS, CONSPIBACY AND INVA8ION. forward his measures by giving the colour of necessity to the vengeance that was inflicted. Notwithstanding these events, many improvements were made during this reign in the city and its suburbs. The police was better regulated, nuisances were removed, the old conduits were repaired, and new ones erected ; the streets and avenues were repaired and paved ; and various regulations were carried into effect, for supplying the metropolis with provisions, to answer the demand of an increased popu¬ lation. The year 1586 was memorable from the discovery of Babington’s conspiracy to assassinate Queen Elizabeth, and release the Queen of Scots from the captivity in which she had languished nearly eighteen years. The con¬ spirators, fourteen in number, were executed as traitors in Lincoln’s-inn-fields, where they had been accustomed to assemble. In the preparations made to repel the threatened attack of the much-vaunted Spanish Armada, the Londoners took a most distinguished share in fur¬ nishing large supplies of men, money, and ships. The purposed invasion w 7 as delayed a whole year by the pa¬ triotic conduct of Thomas Sutton, Esq., the munificent founder of the Charter-house, who tried to drain the bank of Genoa of nearly all its cash, so that the Spanish bills, which had been issued to victual the armada, could not obtain credit. The preparations for crowning James I. in 1603, were interrupted by another dreadful plague, and upwards of 30,500 persons became its victims. In 1604 the horrible conspiracy known in history as the Gun¬ powder Plot of Guy Fawkes, the grand object of which was to prepare the way for the restoration of the Roman Catholics, was commenced by its daring contrivers, with every possible precaution that seemed necessary to insure success. We all know how it was discovered and how it failed. The commencement of Charles I.’s reign was marked by the return of the plague, which carried off, in the metropolis, 35,000 persons. This reign was fruitful in calamity; but to advert to all the melancholy transac¬ tions that took place in London during the eventful struggle between Charles and his people, would far exceed our limits. The excessive oppressions to which the nation was subjected were more particularly felt in London than in other parts of the kingdom, from its being more directly within the influence of the Star-Chamber and High-commission Courts, and from the effects of the mono¬ polies, which had a most pernicious influence on trade THE GREAT PLAGUE. 15 and commerce. The capital, therefore, became the great source from which the parliament derived its supplies during the civil war, and was the theatre of most im¬ portant events. In the year 1643 the entire city and its liberties, including Southwark, were surrounded by a strong earthen rampart, defended by trenches, redoubts, bastions, &c. On the 30th January, 1649, the king was beheaded in front of Whitehall; in April, 1653, the Protector, Cromwell, dissolved the Long Parliament by military force; and in May, 1660, the monarchy was restored in the person of Charles II. The year 1665 became memorable in London by the ra¬ vages of the Great Plague, which made its appearance in December, 1664, and had not entirely ceased in January, 1666. Its progress during the lirst three months was comparatively slow, but it continually advanced, not¬ withstanding every precaution was used to abate its fury. From May to October, 1665, it raged with the greatest violence; the deaths progressively increased from live hundred to eight thousand weekly. The pestilence was now at its height; its ravages, which commenced in Westminster and the western suburbs, extended through the city to Southwark, and to all the parishes eastward of the Tower. The digging of single graves had long been discontinued, and large pits had been excavated, in which the dead were deposited with some little regularity and decent attention ; hut now all regard became impos¬ sible. Deeper and more extensive pits were dug, and the rich ana the poor, the young and the aged, the adult and the infant, were all thrown together in one recep¬ tacle. Whole families, and even whole streets of fami¬ lies, were swept away together. By day, the street pre¬ sented a fearful aspect of desolation and misery ; and at night the dead-carts, moving with slow pace by torch¬ light, and with the appalling cry, “Bring out your- dead !” thrilled horror through every heart not hardened by suffering to calamity. The stoppage of public busi¬ ness was so complete, that grass grew within the area of the Iloyal Exchange, and even in the principal streets of the city : all the inns of court were shut up, and all law proceedings suspended. The entire number returned in the bills of mortality as having died of the plague within the year was 68,950 ; yet there can be no doubt that this total fell short, by many thousands, of those who actually fell by the infection, but whose deaths were not officially recorded. The aggregate is estimated at about 100,000. 16 THE GREAT FIEE.—REBUILDING OF THE CITY. The most important event that ever happened in this metropolis, whether it be considered in reference to its immediate effects or to its remote consequences, was the tremendous fire emphatically named the Fire of London. It broke out on the morning of Sunday, September 2, 1666, and being impelled by strong -winds, raged with irresistible fury nearly four days and nights, nor was it entirely mastered till the fifth morning. The destructive extent of this conflagration was, perhaps, never exceeded in any part of the world by any fire originating in acci¬ dent. Within the walls it consumed almost five-sixths of the houses, and without the walls it cleared a space nearly as extensive as the one-sixth part left unburnt within. Public buildings, churches, and dwelling-houses were alike involved in one common fate; and, making a proper allowance for irregularities, it may be fairly stated that the fire extended its ravages over a space of ground equal to an oblong square measuring upwards of a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. The amount of property destroyed in this dreadful conflagration could never be calculated with any tolerable degree of exact¬ ness, but, according to the best estimates, the total value must have been not less than ten millions sterling. As soon as the general consternation had subsided, the re¬ building of the City became the first object of considera¬ tion ; an act of parliament was passed for that purpose, and though all was not done that might have been, the City was principally rebuilt within little more than four years, and that in a style far more expensive, and infi¬ nitely more commodious and healthful than that of the an¬ cient capital. In the first year of William and Mary all the proceedings of former reigns against the city charters were nullified, and the rights and privileges of the citizens fully re-established. In the reign of Queen Anne London was visited by a fearful storm -which arose about ten o’clock on the night of the 26th November, 1703, and continued to rage with in¬ creased violence till seven the next morning. The de¬ vastation was most extensive, and every part of the kingdom experienced its ravages. The damage sus¬ tained by the City of London alone was estimated at two millions sterling. Upwards of two thousand stacks of chimneys were blown down, and the streets were covered with tiles and slates from the roofs of houses. The lead on the tops of several churches was rolled up like skins pf parchment, and at Westminster Abbey, Christ's Hos. 1 Christ’s Hospital. 2. St. Paul's School. 3. Westminster School ‘ Kind’s College. 5. City of London School. 6. Merchant Tailors’ School 7- Charterhouse. S. University College. GREAT STORM AND LOSS OF LIVES AND PROPERTY. 17 pilal, St. Andrew’s, Holborn, and several other places, it was swept off the buildings. The roof of the guard- room at Whitehall was carried entirely away ; the two new-built turrets on the church of St. Mary, Alderman- bury, one of the pinnacles of St. Saviour’s, Southwark, and the four on the tower of St. Michael’s, Crooked-lane, were entirely blown down ; the vanes and spindles of the weathercocks were bent in many places, several houses in Moortields were levelled with the ground, as were about twenty others in the out-parts, with a great num¬ ber of brick walls, and gable-ends of houses innumerable. Twenty-one persons were killed by the fall of ruins, and about two hundred others were maimed. All the ships in the river Thames, from London-bridge to Limehouse, excepting four, broke from their moorings, and were thrown on shore; upwards of four hundred wherries were entirely lost; more than fifty barges were driven foul of London-bridge, and as many more were either sunk or staved between the bridge and Hammersmith. These events were attended with the loss of many lives. Twelve mcn-of-war, with upwards of eighteen hundred men on board, perished within sight of their own shore; great numbers of merchantmen were lost, and the whole of the damage was so great that its amount defied com¬ putation. The winter of 1739-40 became memorable from its un¬ common severity ; and the occurrence of one of the most intense frosts that has ever been known in this country, has been recorded in our annals by the appellation of the Great Frost. It commenced on Christmas-day, and con¬ tinued with unabated severity till the 17th of the follow¬ ing February, when it began to relax, but it did not entirely break up till nearly the end of March. Above bridge the Thames was completely frozen over, and tents and numerous booths were erected on it for selling toys, liquors, cutlery, &c., to the multitudes that daily flocked thither for curiosity or diversion. The scene here dis¬ played was very singular, and had more the appearance of a fair on land than of a frail exhibition, the only basis of which was congealed water. Great improvements were made in different parts of the metropolis in George II.’s reign ; and health, safety, and convenience were more generally attended to than they had been previously. About 1760 most of the city gates were pulled down, and many improvements made in the avenues of the city and its liberties. c 18 GOBDON BIOTS. The riots of tlie year 17S0 commenced on Friday, the 2nd June, on the occasion of Lord George Gordon pre¬ senting a petition to Parliament against the recent con¬ cessions -which had been made in favour of the Roman Catholics. The rioters were principally composed of the very lowest people, assisted by thoughtless boys; the prisons were destroyed, when all the ruffians of the metropolis united with the mob. At first the destruction was confined to the Roman chapels and houses of the principal Papists ; but as the tumult gathered strength, the houses of Lord Mansfield, and of several justices of the peace, were either burnt or gutted, as the phrase was ; the King’s Bench, New Bridewell, Newgate, and the Fleet Prison were set on tire, and the mob openly avowed their intention to demolish the Bank, the Inns of Court, the Royal Exchange, and several other places. The attack upon the Bank was actually made twice upon one day (Wednesday), but both attempts were feebly conducted, and the rioters repulsed. The outrages of this day were excessive. The inhabitants of most parts of the town, who, on the preceding night, had been obliged to illumi¬ nate their windows, were now compelled to chalk up “ No Popery” on their doors and window-shutters. Blue ribbons and pieces of blue silk were hung out of most windows to avert the fury of the insurgents, and those whose business called them into the street were anxious to mount a blue cockade in order to preserve themselves from personal insult. Thirty-six fires were to be seen blazing, at one time, in different parts of the metropolis, and it became necessary at length to give an uncontrolled licence to the military power “ to act without waiting for directions from the civil magistrates.” During the Thursday the riots were effectually quelled ; between three and four hundred of the mob having been killed or mortally wounded by the soldiery, and the rest intimi¬ dated or taken into custody. On this day, London may be said to have borne great similarity to a city recently stormed. The Royal Exchange, the public buildings, the squares, and the principal streets, were all occupied by troops, cannon were planted in the parks, the shops were closed, and business entirely at a stand; whilst immense volumes of smoke were still rising from the ruins of consumed buildings. Fifty-nine persons -were after¬ wards capitally convicted in London and Southwark for rioting; and the most active of them were executed, within a few days subsequently to their trials, in those GORDON RIOTS.—THE ROYAL JUBILEE. 19 parts which had been the scenes of their respective devas¬ tations. Lord George Gordon was afterwards tried for high treason, but acquitted ; and Braekley Kennet, Esq., the Lord Mayor in 1780, was convicted, at Guildhall, in the following year, for not having properly exerted him¬ self to suppress the rioters in an early stage of the tumult. In consequence of his decease, however, shortly afterwards, no sentence was pronounced. The continued threats of invasion from France towards the end of the last century, led to the general establishment of armed associations of volunteers, and the metropolis was the first to display the patriotic example. The general peace, signed at Amiens, on the 27th March, 1802, occasioned the dissolution of this force, but after the renewal of the war with France, in the following year, almost every parish and public office had its distinct body. The squares, gardens, and even churchyards, of London and its vicinity, became places of military exercise, and within a few months, namely, on the 2Gth and 28th October, the number of effective metropolitan volunteers reviewed on those days by the King, in Hyde Park, amounted to twenty-seven thousand and seventy-seven. The entrance of. his Majesty George III. into the fiftieth year of his reign, October 25th, 1809, was celebrated as a great Jubilee ; and rejoicings with illuminations and other manifestations of loyalty were made throughout London, as well as in every other part of the kingdom. The year 1814 was another season of metropolitan splendour ; the apparently successful termination of the war with France by the restoration of the Bourbons; the visit made to the Prince Regent, in June, by the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and many other foreign princes; and the celebration of the Regent’s Fete, in St. James’s and Hyde Parks, having been the occasion of great festivity and public joy. The victory at Waterloo, on the 18th June, 1815, was also followed by much rejoicing on three successive nights; the numbers which fell in the battle, however, threw a gloom over many families, and the laurel was mournfully entwined with the cypress. During the long reign of George III., the buildings, improvements, and population of London increased to a degree very far beyond that of any former period of similar duration. From the year 1780 to the breaking out of the Revolu¬ tionary War, and, generally speaking, with the exception of a few years at intervening periods, till the present 20 HOW BEST TO SEE LONDON. hour, the outskirts and suburbs of London have continued to increase with astonishing rapidity; the extension, indeed, has far exceeded all prior example. Contiguous villages have been connected, and as it were incorporated with the metropolis; masses of buildings, sufficiently large to bear the name of towns, have sprung up in its vicinity, and are now united with it; elegant squares and stately streets have added to its splendour, and new institutions combining science with utility, and commercial advantage with architectural adornment, have, at the same time, augmented its extent, and increased its riches and mag¬ nificence. HOW BEST TO SEE LONDON. “ If you wish to have a just notion of the magnitude of this city, you must not be satisfied with seeing its great streets and squares, hut must survey the innumerable little lanes and courts. It is not in the showy evolutions of buildings, but in the multi¬ plicity of human habitations which are crowded together, that the wonderful immensity of London consists.”— Boswell's Johnson. There are many ways of seeing London : just according to the taste of the visitor will his steps be led in this or that direction. If, for instance, he be an antiquarian, he will seek the older parts of the city and the east-end ; if he be an artist or connoisseur, he will visit the Picture Exhibitions, and endeavour to obtain admission to the private galleries of rich and noble collectors; if his taste incline to commercial pursuits, he will spend a day at each of the great Docks and explore the principal Ware¬ houses ; if his penchant be for fashionable life, he will go to the parks, squares, and streets of the west-end; if he be a lawyer, he will visit the Courts at West¬ minster and in the City ; if he be a politician, he will try to obtain an order of admission to the Houses of Lords and Commons, and will not fail to attend one or two of the political meetings constantly being held in some one or other part of the metropolis ; if he be literary, he will look into the Libraries of the British Museum, the London Institution, Sion College, and the other great depositories of books; if he be philanthro- pically inclined, he will seek acquaintance with the various London Charities, and learn something of the operations of Bagged Schools, Refuges, and Missions; if he PLAN OF PRINCIPAL STREETS. 21 be medical, he will certainly go to the live Royal Hospitals, and visit the other institutions for the relief of sickness ; it' his tastes lie in the direction of the drama, he will make a series of after-dark tours to the several Theatres; if he be fond of amusements, he will seek the Crystal Palace and the various exhibitions; and whatever be his peculiar leaning in religious matters, he will certainly not fail to visit the Churches. But if the stranger is anxious to take a more or less leisurely glance at them all, he cannot do better than make acquaintance with the leading streets ; after which he can visit the parks and principal public buildings. PLAN OF THE STREETS.—A little study of the map will render the general plan and disposition of London’s principal streets tolerably understandable. It will be seen that two principal thoroughfares on the northern side of the Thames follow in some measure the direction of the river, and that the six main avenues on the south side proceed from the several bridges, and meet in one principal centre—the Obelisk, near the Surrey Theatre, whence they branch off to Walworth and Cam¬ berwell, Kennington and Clapham, Vauxhall, Brixton, &c., joining in their route at the Elephant and Castle. Two main lines of streets traverse London on the north side, one beginning at Romford in Essex, and proceeding through Stratford, Bow, Mile End, Whitechapel, to Aid- gate ; and the other commencing at the West India Docks, and proceeding along the Commercial-road to Whitechapel Church, whence it falls into the principal line. At Aldgate the thoroughfare divides into Leaden- hall-street and Fenchurch-street, both leading directly to the Bank; the one through Cornliill, and the other through Lombard street. The junction of the two latter streets is met by Gracechurch-street, which leads towards London-bridge, and forms a line from Shore¬ ditch, Norton-Folgate, and Bishopsgate-street, between the north-east and south-east districts of the metropolis. From the Bank the thoroughfare proceeds westward through the Poultry and Cornliill to St. Paul’s, when it divides into the main lines of Holborn and Oxford-street on the right, and Ludgate-liill, Fleet-street, and the Strand on tbe left. At Blackfriars the great riverside highway, the Thames Embankment, leads direct to Westminster and the Houses of Parliament. Cannon-street, a new and spacious road from London-bridge to St. Paul’s churchyard, was opened some years since with a view of PLAN OF PRINCIPAL STREETS. 22 easing the traffic in Cheapside; and Queen Victoria-street branching off from the Poultry close to the Mansion House leads directly into it. The line of road from Cheapside, by way of Holborn, leads to Uxbridge, through the fashion¬ able suburbs of Bayswater and Notting-hill, leaving Mary- lebone to the right; while that by way of the Strand leads to Charing-cross, Hy de-park Corner, Knightsbridge, Brompton and Kensington, through Piccadilly. At Charing-cross, Whitehall, on the left, leads to West¬ minster Hall and Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, and, through Victoria-street, to Belgravia, while on the right we reach Regent’s-circus by way of the Haymarket and Regent-street. Between Piccadilly and St. James’s-park runs Pall Mall, in which are situated the principal club¬ houses. Pall Mall leads directly to St. James’s Palace and Marlborough House. It is not traversed by omni¬ buses, its principal junctions with the mainline of Picca¬ dilly being through St. James’s-street opposite the palace, and Waterloo-place, Regent-street. The latter street and Regent-quadrant, with Bond-street (Old and New), and Park-lane, form the main lines of direct communication between Piccadilly and Oxford-street, while Drury-lane, Chancery-lane, St. Andrew-street, or Shoe-lane, and Farringaon-street join Holborn and Fleet-street. These are the streets through which the stranger will most probably make his first acquaintance with London. In them, or in avenues leading out of them, are the principal public buildings and statues. But there is another principal road running east and west, and pro¬ ceeding directly from the Bank to the Great Western Railway at Paddington. This is known as the City-road, the New-road, &c. Taking its rise at the Bank, it passes through Princes and Moorgate streets to Finsbury-square; thence, to the Angel at Islington, it is known as the City- road ; between that point and King’s-cross it is called the Pentonville-road; beyond which to Regent’s-park it is the Euston-road ; whence to Paddington it is named Maryle- bone-road. This line is not so crowded as the more central streets ; and as it contains few objects of interest, is not much used by strangers, except as a mere thoroughfare. Beneath it runs the Metropolitan Railway, from Liverpool- street and Moorgate-street to Paddington. From this line, most of the principal cross thoroughfares west of the city take their rise, and between it and Oxford-street lie the British Museum, the Foundling, St. Luke’s Hospital, Sadler’sWells Theatre, Coldbath-iields Prison, University PLAN OF PBINCIPAL STREETS. 23 College and Hospital,the MiddlesexHospital, and Bedford, Russell, Brunswick, Cavendish, Tavistock, and Portman squares, with some others of lesser note. The principal cross lines of streets on this side are—Gray’s-inn-lane, from King’s-cross to Holborn, near Chancery-lane; Tottenham- court-road, which is a continuation of street from Hamp¬ stead to Oxford-street; Portland-place and Portland-road, the direct lines between the Colosseum and Regent’s-circus North; Wimpole-street; Baker-street , inwhich is Madame Tussaud’s celebrated waxwork exhibition; and the Edg- ware-road. Eastward, the chief cross lines of road on the north side the Thames are—St. Martin’s-le-Grand and Aldersgate-street, which lead from Islington and the great North-road to the City ; Bishopsgate-street, leading from Kingsland and Hackney; and Cambridge-road, from Victoria Park to Mile End. Of the main roads on the south side it is not necessary to say more_ than that they most of them lead from the suburbs to tide river ; one principal line in the little-visited quarter of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe running, how¬ ever, beside the edge of the stream from London-bridge to Deptford, and thence to Greenwich. One of the great wants of London is a series of wide, open thoroughfares from east to west on both sides the Thames. The Thames Embankment, and the extension of the railway system will provide these in course of time. We will now suppose the stranger to have read or skipped, just as he pleases, the foregoing pages, and to be standing in the heart of the city;—under the shadow of the Mansion House, in fact, with the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange on the opposite side, a little to his right; the Poultry and Cheapside to his left, and the crowd of omnibuses, cabs, and other vehiclespassing west¬ ward close before him. He wishes to see as much as he can in as short a time as possible. Instead of wandering to and fro, and going over the ground several times, it will be as well, perhaps, if he map out some regular plan of operations. THE ASPECT OF THE STREETS—The easiest and most leisurely method of getting through the streets, and so gaining a tolerably good idea of their general aspect, is to take a seat outside an omnibus. The routes and fares of the principal London omnibuses are given on p. 31. The aspect of the suburbs is best seen by taking a seat outside a tramway car. The trams run nortlncard between Holloway and Hampstead; Kentish Town and 24 ASPECT OF MAIN THOROUGHFARES. King’s Cross ; Highgate and Hampstead ; Moorgate and Finsbury-park ; Archway Tavern, Stamford-hill, and Highbury. Southward, between Blackfriars and East Greenwich, Peckham, Brixton. From Dover-road by St. Geoi'ge’s Church to Clapham and Brixton ; between Westminster and Brixton, Clapham, Peckham, New Cross, and East Greenwich ; between Victoria Station and Yauxhall-bridge ; and between Dover-road and Camber¬ well. Eastward, between Moorgate-street, Upper Clap¬ ton, and Hackney ; Aldersgate-street and Lea Bridge- road, Clapton; between Aldgate and Stratford, and thence to Leytonstone ; Aldgate and Poplar ; Aldgate and Hack¬ ney, and Victoria-park and Limehouse. Fares, twopence and threepence. After having glanced at the west-end streets, a couple of hours’ walk through the City will bring the visitor into acquaintance with its principal features; then the Docks and Warehouses in the eastern districts may be visited ; after which the principal public buildings may be more minutely examined, and the best of the exhibitions seen. In the evenings the Theatres, Concert-rooms, Lecture- halls, and other places of amusement may be visited; and, if time permit, flying trips may be made to the outlying districts, or short excursions madeinto the country around the metropolis. For it must be remembered that London is a vast city in a garden—not as some suppose, a mere confused collection of bricks and mortar, without trees and flowers, and wide open spaces. Beside the squares, and terraces, and rows, and crescents, which, in different parts of the town, look fresh and green, in due season, with full¬ leaved trees and many-hued flowers, the visitor has only to mount the roof of any omnibus going towards the suburbs, and in less than an hour he will not only have got away from the crowded streets, but he will have entered upon wide roads bordered with elms, and limes, and chestnuts, and planes, and various kinds of trees, behind which lie the villas, mansions, and pretty houses in which reside the wealthy among London’s middle classes, and he will presently find himself in the midst of as pure an atmosphere and as rural and pleasant a scene as can be found in any town of England. Strangers, espe¬ cially foreigners, come to London, and expect to find all gloomy, and close, and wretched—a perpetual fog in the streets in the winter, and a mass of smoky clouds hang¬ ing over the houses in summer. Of course this is a great exaggeration. If, when the visitor has arrived at the EUEAL WALKS BOUND LONDON. 25 end of his omnibus journey, he choose to walk out into the green lanes and fields, he will find as lovely spots as can well be imagined near a great city. It is simply the immense size of London that prevents people properly appreciating its wonderful variety. Indeed, there are in the metropolis hundreds and thousands of people who know less of its attractions and general aspect than the visitor of a week. How many busy people may you meet who confess to never having been inside St. Paul’s, the National Gallery, or the British Museum, muchlesshaving looked at the city from the top of the Monument, or gazed at the beautiful panorama of park and garden, and palace, and square, and street from the summit of the Duke of York’s Column in Waterloo-place. The most picturesque suburbs, either west, east, north, or south, may be reached by rail, omnibus, or tramway car from any part of the City in an hour. Of course we do not pretend that London has not its squalid quarters—its dens of poverty and its sinks of iniquity, its hoixible lanes and fever-haunted courts, its close, unhealthy streets, and its dark, wretched bye-ways, its misery-filled alleys and its sinful slums, where the ginshop and the pawnbroker’s stand side by side; its Whitechapel and its St. Giles, where thieves and costermongers herd with debased women, whose most familiar word is an oath, and children whose earliest education has been picked up in the streets ; and its hundreds of squalid lurking-places, known only to their wretched, degraded inhabitants, and to city missionaries, Scripture-readers, parish doctors, hardly-worked clergymen, policemen, and a very few energetic philanthropists. Of course, it is not pretended that London is all fair to look .upon and bright with cleanliness and godliness; but it is fairer and cleaner than it was even a quarter of a century ago, and it is be¬ coming fairer and cleaner every day! Philanthropy, and active business influence, and bold public writing have not been idle during a long period. Striving in like directions, legislators and the press have awakened inquiry ; inquiry lias elicited many important facts, the publication of which has encouraged discussion and stimulated effort, and the result has been that the aspect of the streets has been improved, that new buildings have not been allowed to be erected without proper super¬ vision, that foul and crowded neighbourhoods have been cleared of their ruin and rottenness, that light and venti¬ lation and drainage have been introduced into poor 26 DABK PLACES AND 1IYSTEEIES. quarters, that model lodging-houses and reforma¬ tories and soup-kitchens and refuges for the destitute have sprung up in neglected corners of moral wilder¬ nesses, and that Drinking fountains, and Parks, and Gardens, and pleasant places have been placed within reach of the labourer and the sempstress. Why, even the densest neighbourhoods of Spitalfields and Bethnal-green have been opened and improved, and brought within the cognizance of educated sympathy and active help. Vic¬ toria-park is scarcely a mile from the poverty of White¬ chapel and Waterloo-town; Kennington-park is almost within sight of the vice of Walworth’s back-slums, and Battersea-park is only an easy walk from the crowded potteries and close streets of Lambeth. But should the stranger ask, “Where do the people live ?” he has only to glance at his map and run his finger along the outskirts of the city, and within two or three miles of its ancient walls; on the east, north, and south, he will lind the suburbs of Mile End and Stepney, Katcliff and Limehouse, Hoxton, Hackney, and Islington ; Ber¬ mondsey, Newington, and Walworth, Lambeth, Kenning- tou, and Battersea ; while close to the airy quarter of St. Johu’s-wood, on the north-west, he will find Camden, Kentish, Somers, and Agar-towns—the Regent’s-park be¬ tween ; and beyond, but farther west, he will come upon Paddington. In all these districts there are enough large, good, substantial houses, with gardens in front and behind, to give a character of well-to-do respectability to the neighbourhoods; while if he goes still farther, iu either direction, he wall discover noble roomy dwellings, which iu Italy would be called “palaces,” and in Franee ‘ ‘ hotels.” Here, however, they are simply known as “villas,” de¬ tached or semi-detached, as the case may be, but always with trees and gardens about them, and generally having porticoes and Venetian windows towards the road, and stables and conservatories in tbe rear. Houses of this description will be found in Stratford, Woodford, and Ley- tonstone on the east; Greenwich, Lewisham, Sydenham, Norwood, llrixton, Clapham, Dulwich, Croydon, Tooting, and Mitcham on the south; Richmond, Twickenham, Hampton, Hounslow, Brentford, Ealing, Acton, and Sun- bury on the west; and Finchley, Hornsey, Tottenham, Edmonton, and Enfield on the north. The purely manufacturing parts of London lie between the city and the suburbs—a sort of debateable land that is neither city nor suburb. Clerkenwell is the chief seat SUBURBS AND MANUFACTURING DISTRICTS. 27 of the watchmaking and jewellery trades; Spitalfields and Bethnal-green are the abodes of workers at various poorly- paid industries; most of the cabinet-makers and car¬ vers are located about St. Luke’s, Old Street-road, and Aldersgate-street; the ironfounders and anchor-smiths, together with the shipwrights, riggers, and boiler-makers, are to be found in Blackwall, Poplar, Millwall, and the Isle of Dogs; the sugar bakers and reliners, most of them, carry on their businesses in the neighbourhoods of White¬ chapel and Commercial-road; the tanners, parchment makers, and skin dressers in Bermondsey; the potters and glass makers in Lambeth; the tailors principally about Golden-square and Burlington-Gardens; the working boot and shoemakers in and about Shoreditch, and also in the courts and narrow streets near Drury-lane ; the producers of plaster casts and images in Leather-lane, Holborn, and the surrounding courts ; the hatters principally in South¬ wark ; the paper-makers chiefly in Surrey, on the banks of the Wanclle ; the chemical manufacturers at Stratford, on the banks of the Lea; the carriage builders in and about Long-acre ; the boat-builders at Lambeth and Chelsea ; the toy makers and doll-dressers at Hoxton, and the brewers everywhere! Among the non-manufacturing classes: au¬ thors, journalists, publishers, &e., mostly incline to the new suburbs; artists and engravers to Kensington and Camden-town; musicians, singers, actors, and dancers to Old Brompton and Pentonville; physicians and surgeons to Savile-row, Brook-street, and Finsbury; lawyers to Bedford-row, Guilford-street, and the “ Inns of Court;” printers to Fleet-street and the Strand; medi¬ cal students to Southwark ; costermongers to White¬ chapel, the New Cut, Lambeth, and Somers-town; members of Parliament and diplomatists to Westminster and Belgravia. “City men,” such as stockbrokers, merchants, and commercial agents, affect Tyburnia, Bayswater, Haverstock-hill, Brixton,and Claphain; com¬ mercial clerks seem fond of Islington, Highgate, Notting- hill, Hackney, and Kingsland ; bill discounters favour the Adelphi, and certain streets about the neighbourhood of liegent Street; professional thieves throng the small streets between Walworth and the Old Kent-road; and “ pretty horsebreakers” have taken up their abodes in large numbers in the rural parts of Lower Brompton, St. John’s-wood, and the nice houses between Sloane- street and the Horticultural Gardens at South Kensington. The contrast between the rich and fashionable West 28 FASHION AND POVEBTY CONTRASTED. End and the poor and unknown East, is very well made by a late writer :— “One of the most extraordinary and rapid changes of condition is that experienced by the traveller who jour¬ neys from the western to the eastern extremity of the metropolis in the height of the brilliant London season. He starts from South Kensington. He passes rows and rows of palaces. The open windows are full of flowers. There is such store of perfume in them that they are reckless, and, besides making the rooms within delicious, scatter largesse of rich scent to the passer-by; sun-blinds gaily striped are drawn down, but still through the laced curtains glimpses may be seen of splendid decoration in the interior of the house ; something may he observed, too, through the open door, for the servants have dis¬ covered that it is of no use shutting it, the callers being so frequent. So they stand in groups in the hall and on the threshold. The small broughams drawn by ponies, the barouches in which ladies recline at their ease, and all sorts of other equipages, flash about this wonderful neighbourhood with a swift precision which does equal credit to the hand and the eye of the driver. The diplomatist jogs by on a quiet ugly horse, which costs far less than the fiery animal bestridden by the groom behind. The diplomatist sits very far back in his saddle, does not rise in his stirrups, rides with a loose rein and a seat to match, and would certainly tumble off if his horse were to shy. From the great high-mounted chariot with the armorial panels, with the two footmen behind, and the inevitable old lady with a wig inside, to the buggy drawn by a high-stepper and driven by a minor with expectations, all is brilliant and imposing. Even the Hansom cabs that frequent these regions have a brighter look than other Hansom cabs, and affect tartan panels and varnish, after a singular and vainglorious sort. Nor have we done with the different kinds of vehicles even yet, for, about this neighbourhood, ladies will drive themselves in little basket carriages ; while the curricle and the fogy are not unknown. Is it a fashionable watering-place or a brilliant capital ? Are care, illness, sorrow, death, known in such a place? Who are all these people, and how are all these palaces maintained? Where do the inhabitants—where does the money—come from ? Bright awnings quivering in the summer breeze, echoes of gay voices, rollings of light wheels, quick step¬ ping of untamed horses, distant echoings of military A PEEP AT BELGRAVIA AND BETHNAL GREEN. 29 bands—pleasure, luxury, extravagance, have it all their own way here, and a jovial way it is. But the sun which brings out the perfumes of Belgravian flower vases, glauces on the striped awnings, twinkles on tlio silvered harness, casts bright gleams here, and broad and luminous shadows there—this same sun has in another neighbourhood other and dirtier work to do. In a certain other region of this town it has to illuminate streets and lanes so narrow and so tortuous, that it is a wonder its straight beams can ever get to the ground. Of a certainty he who passes swiftly from the one neighbourhood to the other may fairly ask himself whether he be still in the same world, instead of the same town. How terrible the change. The sights and sounds how cruelly different. The awnings here are represented by some streaming scrap of rag drying at a window, or by the patched umbrella at the street stall. The flowers are the morsels of vegetables cast out as too bad for even Shoreditch nutriment. The carriages are costermongers’ trucks ; for music here are the cries of suffering children, or curses and vituperation—with which the echoes are charged night and day. Are these slouching, sulky, distorted creatures, who lurk and lour along the sordid thoroughfares, the same animals as the gallants of the other part of the town, the men of upright carriage and free and open looks, cantering in Rotten-row, or lounging in faultless clothes at the entrance to that luxurious place? Are the ladies who lie back in their open carriages, as if their sofas were put upon wheels, or who rein with powerful curb their hardly restrained horses, flesh and blood like to the masculine and bony hags who scream at their children as they drag them from the gutter, and provoke their husbands to increased wrath as they stagger from the public-houses ? Yet it does not take an hour to get from the sight of the first condition to the sight of the second. At one o’clock in the afternoon you may be listening to pleasant and prosperous sounds, inhaling sweet odours, and seeing around you only suggestions of wealth and happiness ; and at two you may plant yourself before a rag and bone shop, with a print in the window of Justice tightly bandaged, weighing a pound of dripping in her scales, and giving the highest price for it compatible with a reasonable profit. In less than one short hour, you can pass into the regions of intensest squalor, where every 30 BAGS, POVERTY, AND WRETCHEDNESS. sense is offended, just as in the other neighbourhood every one of the five senses was comforted and pleased. Is this great contrast one to which many persons sub¬ ject themselves ? Are there those who, of their own free will, pass from the first scene to the second? Way, are there those whose lot is cast in the pleasant land, and who leave it to go into the land of pain and horror ? There are those who make the pilgrimage—who make it from choice, who cannot enjoy their own comforts while they know of such unutterable misery—who start on a great mission from the west to the east, and who come back, leaving behind them goodly work accomplished.” And then the writer goes on to describe some of the improvements we have mentioned as having been effected in neighbourhoods where poverty most does congregate. In this particular- case he adduces Columbia-square, a block of houses in Bethnal-green, founded and erected at the expense of that most benevolent and philanthropic lady, Lady Burdett Coutts. The ranges of dwelling houses for the poor, which have been built by the trustees of the Peabody Fund, the princely gift of an eminent American mer¬ chant in London, are, in the main, of similar design to the block in Columbia-square. Mr. Peabody died in November, 1869. The stranger who would really see London as it is, must not content himself with gazing on its fairer aspects. He must go into the districts where the poor reside before he can obtain an adequate notion of the variety and immensity of the metropolis. HINTS AND CAUTIONS FOR STRANGERS. We will presume the indulgent reader to have glanced at the previous pages, and that he is now anxious to come to something practical. Well, we must ask him to take a little advice and listen to a few cautions. In the first place, we say, do not try to see too much in a day. To obtain a thorough knowledge of this great city, it is necessary to live in it; and not only to live in it, but to travel about in it; and to travel about, moreover, with a desire to gain information. Merely “ doing business in the city,” or “ residing at the West- end,” will not be sirflicient. But it will be something. Many a stranger gleans more actual experience of Lon¬ don and its masses in a month than a regular cockney does in a life-time ; because the stranger makes it his DIAGRAM OF THE MAIN THOROUGHFARES. 31 business to see what there is to he seen, while the Londoner contents himself with the knowledge that he can see such and such a place at any time, and ends by never seeing it at all. A good plan to begin with, is to acquaint yourself with the general disposition of the streets. This you may do by referring to the map; but it will assist your compre¬ hension to remember the position of the main thorough¬ fares east and west. Thus— The Bank is the City centre of Lundon, as Charing-cross is its centre for conveyance purposes, and the General Post-office in St. Martin’s-le-Grand for postal purposes. CONVEYANCES. — Omnibuses traverse the main thoroughfares in all directions. The following are the PRINCIPAL OMNIBUS AND TRAMWAY ROUTES. One of the best ways to see the streets of London is from the roof of an omnibus. The Bank of England and Mansion House are the City centres for nearly all the omnibuses going east and west, along the lines between Mile-end, Whitechapel, and Brompton, Blackwall and Kensington ; and north and south between Islington and Brixton, Paddington, &c. The other principal centres of omnibus traffic are— Charing-cross , for all parts of London. Angel at Islington, for Highgate, Holloway, &c., and St. Pancras. Both tramway cars and omnibus. Itcgent-circus, Piccadilly; and Regent-circus, Oxford- street. Tottenham-court-road, for Hampstead, Highgate, &c. 32 PRINCIPAL OMNIBUS ROUTES. Gracechurch-street, for vehicles going south to Brixton, Clapham, Kennington, &c. Roy id Exchange, for Walthamstow, Clapton, Hackney, Victoria Park, and Old Ford. Elephant and Castle, for the southern suburbs, the City, and the West-end. Tramway car and omnibus. London-hridge Railway-stations for all parts of town ; and the railway stations generally. Metropolitan Railway-station, Liverpool-street, Moor- gate-street or Mansion House-station, for the west and south. _ BAYSWATER AND KoTTING-HILL TO MlLE-END-GATE— Green: Notting hill, Oxford-street, Holborn, Cornhill, Whitechapel—every six minutes. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Tramway cars on this route. Bayswater to Shoreditch-station — Green: Oxford- street, Holborn, Cheapside, Threadneedle • street, Bishopsgate-street—every hour. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Bayswater to London-bridge-station— Oxford-street, Holborn, Cheapside, London-bridge, every few minutes. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Blackwall to Oxford-circus— Blue: Poplar, Lime- house, Stepney, Aldgate, Cheapside, Strand, Charing- cross, Regent-street—every ten minutes. 3d. and 4d. Brentford to St. Paul’s— Red: Kew-bridge, Hammer¬ smith, Kensington, Piccadilly, Strand—every hour. 6d. to Is. Brixton to Gracechurch-street —“ Paragon” and others—Kennington, Elephant and Castle, Londou- hridge—Tramway car to l)over Road. Brixton to Oxford-street —Kennington, Westminster- bridge, Charing-cross, Regent-street—every half-hour. 3d. to 6d. Tramway car and omnibus. Broad-street Station — North London Railway to Brompton, Putney, &c. ( White) and to Hammersmith (Red) Broad-street by Cheapside, Strand, &c., every fifteen minutes. 2d. to 6d. Brompton to the Bank —South Kensington, Piccadilly, Strand—every four minutes. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Brompton to Islington —South Kensington Museum, Regent-street, Euston-road, &c.,—every nine minutes. 4d. and 6d. Camberwell to Gracechurch-street — Walworth, Elephant and Castle, Borough, London-bridge—every ten minutes. 2d., 3d., and 6d. OMNIBUS ROUTES. 33 Camden-town to Charing Cross and Victoria —Hamp- stead-road, Tottenham-court-road, St. Martin’s dane— every five minutes. 2d., 3d., and 4d. Tramway cars part of these routes. Camden-town to Kennington, 3d., 4d. and 6d. Camden-toivn to Victoria-station— as above to St. Mar¬ tin’s-lane, to Westminster Abbey, &c. 2d., 3d. and 4d. Chelsea to Islington —Sloane-square, Piccadilly, Re¬ gent-street, Portland-road, Iving’s-cross, Pentonville— every nine minutes. 3d. and 6d. Chelsea to Bethnal-Green —King’s-road, Sloane- street, Piccadilly, Strand, Cheapside, Bishopsgate- street. 3d., 4d. and 6d. Chelsea to Hoxton— chocolate . 3d., 4d. and 6d. Clatham to Oxford-street— Stoekwell, Kennington, Westminster-bridge, Oharing-cross, Regent-street— every fifteen minutes. 6d. Clapham to Gracechurch-street — Stoekwell, Ele¬ phant and Castle, London-bridge—every ten minutes. 6d. Tramway from Stoekwell to Dover Road. Clapton to Bank and Oxford-circus through Hackney. 3d. and 6d. Tramway to Moorgate-street and Eins- bury, and to Mile-end and Aldgate. Clapton to Moorgate-street and Aldersgatf.-street, by tramway 3d. and 2d. Euston-station —the Euston-road omnibuses pass near to the station every few minutes. 3d., 4d. and 6d. FENcnuRCH-STATiON— Omnibuses to the Bank and the West End, from the station. 2d., 3d., 4d. and 6d. Gracechurch-street to Old Kent-road, Brixton, Clap- ham, Wandsworth, &e. 3d., 4d. and 6d. Tramway from Dover Road. Greenwich to Gracechurch-street— Deptford, Kent- road, Dover Road, London-bridge. Tramway to Westminster-bridge. Greenwich to Charing-cross— Deptford, Kent-road, Elephant and Castle, Westminster-bridge. (Tramway.) Hackney to Bank, fare 2d. (Tramway. ) Hackney to IIolborn, Oxford-streei, &c. 6d. Hackney to Bethnal-green and Aldgate. 3d. (Tram¬ way.) Hackney to Islington. 3d. Hammersmith to Bank and Liverpool-street —Ken¬ sington, Piccadilly, Strand, St. Paul’s, Cheapside. 3d. to 6d. D 34 OMNIBUS EOUTES. Hahpton-coukt to St. Paul’s— Twiclcenliam, Rich¬ mond, Kew, Hammersmith, Piccadilly, Strand. 4d. to Is. 6d. Havekstock-hill to Pimlico— Many of the Camden Town omnibuses start from Haverstock-hill. 3d., 4d., 5d., Gd. n.WEESTOCK-HILL to ToTTEN HAH-COUKT-BOAD, Sf. Maktin’s-lane, and Chaeing-ckoss. 3d. Holloway to London-bkidge —“Favorite”—Highbury, Islington, City-road, Bank, King William-street— every eight minutes. 3d.,4d.,and6d. Tramway to City. Islington to Kent-koad— Essex-road, Hoxton, Fins¬ bury, Bank, London-hridge, Borough — every ten minutes. 3d., 4d., and Gd. Tramway to City. Islington to Oxfoed-ciecus, Regent-steeet, &c. 4d. Kensal-geeen to the Bank —Harrow-road, Edgwarc- road, Oxford-street, Holborn, Cbeapside. 2d. to 9d. KEW-BEiDGEto St. Paul’s—M any of the Hammeesmith omnibuses extend their route to Kew-beidge, through Turnham-green. 3d. to Is. King’s-ceoss Station —All the Euston-eoad omnibuses, and seme to Kenningtox, pass close. Special to the City from all trains. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Kingsland to Elephant and Castle and Cambeb- avell. 3d. Tramway to Moorgate. London-bkidge Station —Omnibuses start with extra¬ ordinary frequency to almost every part of the metro¬ polis. 2d., 3d., 4d., and 6d. Is oewood and Oxfoed-steeet —Brixton, Kcnnington, Charing-cross, Regent-street. Is. Nobwood and Geacechuech-steeet— Some by Brixton, some by Camberwell, thenceto Elephant and Castle. Is. Notting-hill, see Bayswatee. Old Foed and Victoeia Paek to Bank. 2d. and 3d. Paddington Station— Numerous Paddington omni¬ buses pass close to the station. Special omnibuses for the trains. 3d., 4d., and Gd. Paddington to London-bkidge Station— “Citizen” — Edgware-road, Oxford-street, Holborn, Bank—every eight minutes. 3d. and 4d. Paddington to London-bkidge Station— green. Royal Oak, Edgware-road, Euston-road, City-road, Bank— every ten minutes. 3d. and 4d. Paddington to Chaking-ceoss Station— Edgware- road, Oxford and Regent-streets, Charing-cross—every eight minutes. 4d. OMNIBUS ROUTES. 35 Peckiiam to Gracechurch-street— Camberwell-green, Elephant and Castle, Borough, London-bi'idge—every twenty minutes. 4d. and 6d. Peckham to West-end —Over Westminster-bridgc to Oxford-street—every twenty minutes. 4d. and 6d. Pimlico to the Bank —“ Westminster”—Lupus-street, Vauxhall-bridge-road, Westminster, Strand—every six minutes. 3d. and 4d. Pimlico, Victoria Station —Omnibuses to Camden Town start about every three or four minutes. Less frequent to Paddington. 3d. and 4d. Pimlico to Islington, Holloway, &c., by Strand and Chancery-lane—“Favourite” Green. 2d., 3d., 4d., 6d. Putney to London-bridge Station —Fulham, Parson’s- green, Walham-green, Brompton, Strand—every eight minutes. 3d., 4d., and 6d. Shoreditch (Bishopsgate) Station —Omnibuses con¬ tinually pass to and from the City and West-end, through Bishopsgate-street. 3d., 4d., and 6d. South Hackney to Bank. 3d. Also tramway. South Kensington Museum. —All the omnibuses to Kensington, Hammersmith, Brentford, Kew, Rich¬ mond, &c., pass near the northern boundary of the Museum and the Horticultural Gardens; while those to BROMPTONandl’UTNEYpassnear the southern boundary. St. John’s-wood to Camberwell-gate — “ Atlas ”— Swiss Cottage, Baker-street, Oxford-street, West- minster-bridge every live minutes. 4d. and 6d. St. John’s-wood to London-bridge Station— “ City Atlas”—Swiss Cottage, Baker-street, Oxford-street, Holborn, Bank—every seven minutes. 4d. and Gd. Stoke Newington to Bank —Kingsland, Shoreditch, Bishopsgate-street—every ten minutes. Tramway to Moorgate-street, City. Stratford to Bow by tramway, and from Bow to Oxford-circus, Mile-end, Whitechapel, Aldgate, Bank, St. Paul’s, Strand, llegcnt-street, Piccadilly — every ten minutes. 3d., 4d., 6d, Tramway Stratford to Aldgate. WaterlooStation.—T he“ Waterloo, ’’fromCamdenTown to Camberwell, and Old Kent-road, pass the station. Special omnibuses for all the trains. 3d., 4d., and 6d. York and Albany to Camberwell-gate —“Waterloo” —Albany - street, Regent - street, Waterloo - bridge, Elephant and Castle—every six minutes. d 2 36 OMNIBUS ROUTES. Most of the omnibuses divide their distances so as to make two, three, or more fares. All of them are com¬ pelled by law to have a table of fares inside the vehicle, and most of them have the fares conspicuously placed on the inside of the door, or at the upper end of the vehicle. Many of the omnibuses on the main routes have their extreme destinations painted on the sides—as: Hammersmith —Hammersmith to St. Paul’s, &c. Numerous omnibuses pass at low fares between London bridge and the Marble Arch, at the top of Oxford- street ; light-yellow, white, &c., 2d., 3d. and 4d. Nearly the whole of the London omnibuses belong to the London General Omnibus Company. The tramway cars belong to separate companies. The London omnibuses travel in the year upwards of fifteen millions of miles, and cany more than fifty millions of passengers, at an average of 3id. Of course, it must be understood that each passenger makes many journeys, some as many as six or eight a day. Many persons living in the suburbs and doing business in the city ride to and fro daily. Before getting in ask the conductor if the vehicle goes to the place you wish to reach. Have your fare ready before getting out, and so avoid the necessity of taking change. Do not get out till the vehicle stops. In walking through the streets avoid lingering in crowded thoroughfares, and keep on the right-hand side of the footway . Never enter into conversation with men who wish to show you the way, offer to sell “smuggled cigars,” or invite you to take a glass of ale or play a game at skittles. If in doubt about the direction of any street or building, inquire at a respectable shop or of the nearest policeman. Monday is the workman’s holiday; Saturday the most aristocratic day for the Opera, &c. Consult the Post. Office Directory for addresses of friends who do not live in lodgings. Do not relieve street-beggars, and avoid bye-ways and poor neighbourhoods after dark. Carry no more money about you than is necessary for the day’s expenses. Look after your watch and chain, and ta Ice care of your pockets at the entrance totheatres, exhi¬ bitions. churches, and in the omnibuses and the streets. Messages may be sent by the corps of Commissionaires, at cheap rates; but a halfpenny post card, a penny CAB FAKES FOE TWO PEKSONS. 37 letter, or a post-office telegram is a ready and most econo¬ mical messenger. Travelling in that much abused, but often convenient London vehicle, the cabriolet—or cab, as it is now universally called—is very common. Remember that the fare for one or two persons is sixpence a mile , by day or night to any place within a radius of four miles from Charing Cross, and one shilling a mile beyond that distance. A cab cannot be hired from a stand for a less fare than one shilling. CAB FARES To and from the following places and Charing-cross, and the several Railway Stations :— For each person above two, 6cl. ad¬ ditional for the whole hiring. For children under ten years old, 3d. each. Sixpence must be paid for eacli complete quarter of an houi that a hired cao is kept waiting. J-l -4-3 - 3 0 1 6 2 6 3 0 2 6 Kermnaton-yard... llopwood's-gate 2 6 2 6 2 O 1 0 i 6 2 6 2 O Kensington-gardens Kensington-gt 2 6 3 0 2 6 1 6 2 O 2 6 2 O Kilburn-gat e . 3 0 3 0 2 O 1 0 2 O 3 0 2 6 1 0 1 6 1 6 1 6 I i 6 Kingsland-road .Canal-bridge King's-road . Man in the M 001 1 0 1 0 1 6 3 0 2 0 l 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 2 0 2 6 2 6 2 0 King 11 'ilUam-st., City. ..Cajinon-st 1 0 1 0 I G 2 6 1 6 1 0 1 0 Knightsbridge .Sloaue-st 2 0 2 G 2 0 1 6 1 6 2 0 1 6 Lambeth marsh . 1 6 i 6 i 6 2 O 1 6 1 0 ho Leadcnhall-st. ...East India IIous 1 0 1 0 1 6 2 6 i 0 1 0 10 Leicester-square, N.W. 1 6 r 1 0 1 6 I 10 ( 6 1 1 0 d. s. d 6 620 2 6 3026 2026 026 026 010 6 1 6 6 6 3026 2016 1016 2 6 1 6 2 o 1 6 1 Gj 1 o 1 6j 2 0 2 0 | 2 0 16 26 2 O 2 10 i 61 2 0 I 61 2 o I 61 Charhig-cross. 40 HIEING BY TIME. CAB FARES— continued. Cabs may be hired by time by mak¬ ing an agreement with the driver. The charge is 2 s. an hour for close cabs, ana 2 s. 6 d. per hour for “Hansoms.” 5 tj •§ £ ” to d fee c* 0 s p 0 ~bfl a 2 O c & d O’ c 3 s. d s. d. s. d s. d s. d Lincoln' 8 -inn .Serle-street 1 0 i 6 1 0 2 0 1 0 Lombard-street .Birchin-lane i 0 1 0 1 6 2 6 1 6 London-bridge .Adelaide-place 1 0 1 0 i 6 2 6 2 0 London-docka . 1 0 1 0 2 0 3 0 2 0 Long-acre .St. Martin’s-lane 1 6 1 6 1 0 1 6 1 0 Loicndes-square, N.W. 2 O 2 6 2 0 1 6 1 6 Ludgate-hill .Farringdon-strcet I 0 1 0 1 0 2 0 i 6 Maida-hill . 2 6 3 0 1 6 1 0 1 6 Manchester-square , N.W. 2 O 2 0 I 0 1 0 1 0 Mansion-house .City I O 1 0 i 6 2 6 1 6 Mark-lane .F enchurch-street — 1 0 1 6 2 6 2 0 Mile-end-gate . I O 1 0 2 0 3 0 2 6 Mile-end-road .Jews’ Cemetery i 6 1 6 2 6 3 6 3 0 Mint .Tower-hill 1 0 1 0 2 0 3 0 2 0 Montagu e-square t N.W. 2 0 2 6 1 6 1 0 1 0 Moor gate-street .London-wall 1 0 I O 1 6 2 6 1 6 Notting-hillrsquare , N.W. 3 0 3 ° 2 6 1 0 2 0 Obelisk .St. George’s-fields 1 0 i 6 1 6 2 6 1 6 Old Bailey... Central Criminal-Crt. 1 0 1 0 1 0 2 0 1 6 Old Broad-street ...Winchester-st. 1 0 1 0 1 6 2 6 i 6 Onslow-square ...Brompton, N.W. 3 0 3 0 2 6 2 O 2 0 Oxford-street .Edgware-road 2 0 2 0 i 6 I C 1 6 Oxford-street .Regent-circus 1 6 2 0 1 0 I O J O Oxford-street ...Tottenham-ct.-rd. 1 6 1 6 1 0 i 6 I O Oxford-square. . .Hyde-park, N.W. 2 6 2 6 1 6 1 0 i 6 Pall Mall .George-street 1 6 2 O 1 6 1 6 1 6 Park-lane .Mount-street 2 0 2 O 1 6 I O 1 6 Park-square ...Regcnt’s-prk, N.WJ 2 0 2 O 1 0 I O 1 0 Parson'e-green .Munster House| 4 0 4 0 3 6 2 6 3 0 Peckham .Vestry Hall 2 0 2 6 2 6 3 0 3 0 Peckham-Bye-road... East Dulwich 2 6 3 0 3 6 4 0 3 6 Piccadilly .Half-moon-street 2 0 2 0 1 6 1 6 i 6 Piccadilly .Haymarket 1 6 2 0 1 6 i 6 1 0 Piccadilly .Hatchett’s Hotel 1 6 2 0 1 6 1 6 1 6 Portland-place .Duchess-street 2 0 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 Portland-st., Great ...Portland-rd. 2 0 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 Port man-square , N.W.| 2 0 2 0 1 6 1 0 1 0 Post-office ...St. Martin’s-le-grand i 0 1 0 I O 2 0 1 6 Queen-square... Bloomsbury, N. W. 1 6 1 6 O 2 0 1 0 Queen-square ... W estminster,N. W. 2 0 2 O 6 2 0 1 6 Red Lion-square , N.W. 1 ^ 1 i 6 | O ' 1 6 .0 o to rz Jp o 'p s. d. S. d. i o i o i o i o i o i o i o i 6 1 6 i o 2 0 10 i o i o 26 20 20 16 I o 1 o I o i o I o 2 O 1620 i o i 6 2616 i o I 6 3 O 3 6 I o I o 1 o I o 10 I o 2620 2 o I 6 2 0 I O 1 6 I O 2 6 2 0 1 6 i O 2 o I 6 2 O I 6 3630 1 6 I 6 2626 2 0 10 1 6 I O 1 2 O I O 2 O I 6 2 O I 0 2 O I 6 10 10; i 6 i o i 6 i o s. d. s. d 6 1 6 1 6 1 o Waterloo. DISPUTES WITH DEIVEE, 41 CAB FARES— continued. Disputes— In case of dispute be tween hirer and driver, the hirei may require the driver to drive tc the nearest Police-court, when the complaint may be determined b.\ the Sitting Magistrate, withou summons, or to the nearest Police-station, where the com plaint shall be entered, and tried by the Magistrate at his next sitting. Eenchurck- street. Biskopsgate. s. d s. d Regent-square .Gray’s Inn-roac i 6 i 6 Regent-street .Langham-place 2 O 2 O Regent-street .Piccadilly i 6 2 O Russell-squure , N.VV. i 6 I 6 Rutland-gate .Hy de-park 2 6 2 6 St. G f tor^e , s-sg'//are...Thames-bank 2 O 2 6 St. James's-square, N.W. i 6 2 O St. James's-street .King-strccl i 6 2 O St. Katherine's-ilocks . I o I O St. Pancras H or ArAoMse... King’s-rt 2 O i 6 St. Paul's-churchyd ...Paul’s-chain I O I o Sloane-square , N.VV. 2 6 2 6 A 'loane-street . 11 ans-street 2 6 2 6 Smithjif ld ( West) .Long-lane I o I o Sohosquare , N.VV. i 6 i 6 Southwark-hridge .Queen-st.-pl. I o I o Spitalfields .The Church I o I o Stepney-green ..King John’s Palace I 0 i 6 Stoke N ewington-rd. Wellington-rd 2 O i 6 Strand .VVellington-strcet I o i 6 Tavisfock-sq. ...St, Pancras, N.VV. i 0 I 6 Temple-bar . I 0 i 6 Thurloe-square ...Brompton, N.VV. 2 0 3 ° Torrinqton-sq.... Bloomsbury, N.VV. i 6 i 6 Tottenham-ct.-rd .Francis-street i 6 2 o Trafalgar • sq .Brom pt oi i ,N. VV. 3 ° 3 o Uxb ridge-road ... Goldhawke-road 3 6 3 6 Vauxhall-bridge .Bridge-road 2 O 2 O Victoria-park... Principal Entrance i 6 I O Victoria-st., JF^mw.jArtillery-rw 2 O 2 O Wulham-green .The Church 3 6 3 6 Warwick-square ...Pimlico, N.W. 2 O 2 6 Water loo-bridge... Lancaster-place i 6 i 6 Westbourne-terrace .James-st. 2 6 3 ° West London Cemetery.. Brompton 3 o 3 6 Westminster-bridge... Bridge-street I 6 2 O 1 Westminster ...(Houses of Parliamt i 6 2 O 1 Wimpole-st. ...Gt. Marylcbone-st. 2 O 2 0 York and Albany .Eegcnt’s-pk. 2 O 2 O . oi <0 ) U) O o o "&D 3 M rO o o 5 c 0-2 King’s fS O 3 o O £ ■§ « > * s. d s. d s. d s. d s. d s. d I o i 6 I o 1 1 ** i 6 I 6 I o I o I o 2 O i 6 I o i 6 i 6 I 0 i 6 I o I o I o i 6 I o I 6 I o I 6 2 0 i 6 2 O 2 6 2 o I 0 2 O 2 o 2 0 i 6 i 6 I o i 6 i 6 i 6 i 6 I o I o i 6 i 6 I 6 i 6 I o I o 2 O 3 o 2 O I o i 6 I 0 I O i 6 I O 2 o 2 o 2 O I O 2 0 i 6 I 0 I o i 6 2 O 2 O 2 O 2 O i 6 I o 2 O i 6 2 O 2 O i 6 I o I O 2 0 I 6 I o I 0 i 6 I O i 6 I 0 i 6 I o I o i 6 2 6 i 6 I o I o i 6 i 6 2 6 2 O I o i 6 2 o 2 6 3 6 2 6 i 6 2 O 3 0 2 O 3 o 2 0 2 O 2 6 3 ° I o i 6 I 0 I 0 I 0 I o I o i 6 I O r 6 I o I 6 I o 2 O I O 1 o I o i 6 2 6 2 O 2 O 2 6 2 O I o I o i 6 I 0 i 6 I O I 6 I o i 6 I O i 6 I O I 6 2 6 2 O 2 6 2 6 2 O I o 2 6 i 6 2 6 3 6 3 0 2 o 2 O 2 O 2 0 i 6 I o I c 2 O 3 6 2 6 2 0 2 6 3 o 2 O 2 0 i 6 i 6 I o I 0 3 ° 2 O 3 o 3 o 2 6 2 O 2 O 2 0 2 O 2 0 i 6 I 0 I O 2 0 1 ° I o I o I o i 6 I O I 6 2 6 2 O i 6 3 o 2 O 2 6 3 o i 6 i 6 i 6 2 O 1 6 | r o I o o i 6 2 0 I 6 i 6 I 0 o 1 ° I O 1 0 2 O r 0 6 1 0 l I 6 1 0 2 6 2 0 0 1 1 I 6 Charing-cross. 42 BATES AXD TABLES OF FABES. CAB FABES— continued. Tables of Fares — There shall be marked distinctly,both on the in- J; side and outside of each carriage,) - the rate of fares, which may be ~ < legally demanded; and the driver I .c • shall have with him at all times, ~ t when plying for hire, a book cf S fares, and produce the same when -=« required by hirer. s. d. 2 o i 6 3 o i 6 i 6 3 © 1 6 2 6 2 O 2 O EXHIBITIONS, etc. Botanic-gardens .Regent’s-park British Museum . Cremorne-gardens . Egyptian Hall .Piccadilly Gallery of Illustration Regent-st. Uordcult. Gardens... S. Kensingt. Ken nington-oval Cricket-ground... Lord’s Cricket-ground . Madame Tussaud's ...< 8 , Baker-st, Polytechnic Institution Regent-st. Totcer of London . Zoo/00iea/-<7an/e>i$... Regent’s-park HOSPITALS. Bethlehem .St. George’s-fields Charing-cross, Agar-street, Strand i 6 | i Consumption .Brompton German .Dalston Guy’s... St. Thomas’s-st., Borough King’s College .Porlugal-strcetj i o Lock .Harrow-road 3 ° London .Whitc-chapel-road i o £o;i< 7 ©;iI ; >r£r,Liverpool-rd.Isling. i 6' Lying-in .Endell-st., Long-acre i 6 Lying-in General .York-road t 6 Lying-in , London .Old-street t o Lying-in , Queen’s ...Euston-road 2 6 Middlesex .Charles-street i 6 Iloyal Free .Gray’s-inn-road i 6 St.~ Bartholomew’s .Smithtield i o St. Luke's .Old-street i o St.Mary* 8 , Cambridge-pl.,Paddgn. 2 6 St. Thomas’s .Staugate * 6 University .Gower-street 1 6 Westminster .Bioad Sanctuary 1 & NEWS-OFFICES. Adt>crltser,Mornittg... 127 , Fleet-st. 1 o Daily News, Bouverie-st., Fleet-st. 1 c Echo .Catherine-st. 1 1 o Globe . 127 , Strand 1 o Standard .Shoe-lane 1 o Post , 3 /orm'w^...Wellington-street! 1 o Telegraph, Dally.Fleet-street 1 o limes, Printing-house-sq., Blakfs. 1 o 0 H 0 M O fee c tr 'S £ d d 0 W d. d. s. d. s. d a 6 I O I O I O 6 I O i 6 I 0 6 3 0 2 0 2 6 O 1 6 1 6 I 0 O 1 6 1 6 I 0 O 2 6 I 0 2 O O 2 O 2 6 2 O O 1 6 1 O I 6 0 i 6 I O I O O 1 0 I 0 I O O 1 6 2 6 2 O 6 1 0 i 6 I O 6 1 6 2 6 1 6 6 1 6 1 6 I O O 2 6 2 O 2 6 6 2 O 3 0 2 O O 1 6 2 6 2 O 6 I O 2 O I O 0 2 O I O 2 O 0 2 O 3 0 2 6 0 I O 2 O I O 6 I 0 1 6 I O 6 I 6 2 O 1 6 O 1 0 2 6 i 6 6 1 6 I O 1 0 0 1 0 i 6 1 0 6 1 0 2 O 1 0 O 1 0 2 O 1 6 O 1 0 2 6 1 6 6 1 6 — 1 6 6 2 0 2 6 2 0 0 1 0 i 6 1 0 0 16 2 0 1 6 0 1 0 2 0 i 6 0 1 0 2 0 i 6 6 1 6 2 0 1 6 6 1 0 2 0 1 0 6 1 0 1 6 1 6 6 1 0 1 6 1 0 0 1 0 2 0 1 6 0 1 0 2 0 1 6 2 6 s. d. 6 1 o 2 6 5 . d. s. d. 1616 1610 1620 1010 1 6 2 o 2 o 610 I 610 I 620 I 0 2 0 1 IO IO 10 2630 OIO 2 6 i 6 6 6 2620 20 16 26 20 1620 16 1 01 011 10 10 10 1 6 2016 1 6 | 1 6 1 1 6 1 1 6 2016 1 6 1 o 1 6 •aapt.tq-uopuo'x HIKING AND BATE OF SPEED, CAB FARES— continued. 43 The driver is to drive at a speed not «3 o - less than six miles an hour, unless -a c a 'a in cases of unavoidable delay, or ■L • a 3 '£ a a »- when required by the hirer to drive o a? C J bL c=> o slower. The driver should deliver T - , ii CL to .2 a a a a, -*-> to the person hiring a cab, a a 2 bD ri printed ticket containing the .2 a 2 £ ? u ‘ a number of his cab. Ph W o 6 RAILWAYS. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. d. s. d. Charinq-cross .Strand J 6 T 6 i 6 i 6 Great Eastern . Bishopsgate I o ^ 6 2 O 6 i 6 -Mile-end, Cattbrid'ge-rd. I o I o 2 6 . 6 6 2 O Great Northern .King’s-cross I (; i 6 i 6 Great Western .Paddington 2 6 2 6 i 6 6 i 6 London # Blackmail, Fenchurch-st 2 6 2 0 i 6 i 6 •-...Shadwell. Church-road I 0 2 6 3 2 6 6 London # Brighton, London-bridge I o i 6 2 O 6 1 6 i London, Chat.,# Dover , Ludg.-hill I o i 6 6 London # Nth.- Western, Euston-sq. 2 0 London# South-Wcst,\\ I o i 6 i 6 . .Nine Elms 2 o 2 O 2 6 2 6 2 O i 6 i 6 ..Vauxhad 2 o 2 O i 6 Metropolitan .Moorgatc-street I o 2 6 i 6 North London .Camden-town 2 o 2 O 1 o 2 6 i 6 1 ..Caledonian-road 2 o 6 -Islington and Highbury 2 o I 6 I o 2 6 r 6 2 O 2 0 b ..Kingsland 6 2 O South-Eastern .London-bridge 2 O 6 ..Bricklayers’ Arms I o i 6 2 O 3 0 2 0 I 0 I 0 I 6 1 6 THEATRES. Adelphi .Strand ! 6 i 6 I 0 i 6 I o I o Astley’s .Westm. Bridge-rd. I 6 i 6 i 6 i 6 City of London .Norton Folgate I 0 I o I 6 2 6 i 6 i 6 I 6 Covent Grd. Italian Opera, Bow-st. I 6 i 6 i 6 Drury Lane, Catherine-st., Strand I 6 i 6 I o i 6 I o I o Gaiety . Strand I 6 i 6 1 o i 6 I o Globe .Newcastle-st., Strand I 6 i 6 I o Uaymarket . I 0 2 o i 6 i 6 I o i b Lyceum.. . Wellington-street, Strand I o i 6 I 0 i 6 I 0 Marylebone , Church-st., Paddingn 2 6 2 6 1 6 I 0 i 6 2 6 b I b Olympic .Wych-street I 0 i 6 I o 2 O I 0 Pavilion .Whitechapel-road I o I o 2 O 3 ° 2 O i 6 6 Princess’s .Oxford-street I 6 i 6 i 6 Prince of H'ales...'l 'ottenm.-ct.-rd. I 6 6 Sadler’s Wells .Islington I 6 I 0 I 0 2 O I 0 i 6 St. James’s .King-street T 6 2 o I 6 i 6 Standard .Shoreditch o _ i 6 2 6 2 O 6 I 6 Strand . I o i 6 I o 2 O I o i 6 Surrey .Black! riars-road I o I o i 6 2 6 I 6 Vaudeville .Strand 6 i 6 Victoria .New Cut, Lambeth I 0 i 6 i 6 2 O i 6 I o I 0 I 0 I o The principal RAILWAYS used by Londoners for the purposes of what we may call town travel, are— The North London (station at Broad-street, City), BAILWATS AND STEAMBOATS. 44 which runs right round the north-east and northern parts of the town ; with stations at Chalk Farm (where it unites with the London and North-Western), Camden- road, Barnsbury, Islington, Canonbury (where it joins the Hornsey, or Finsbury-park line), Dalston, Hackney, Victoria-park, Bow and Stepney. At Stepney it joins— The London and Blackwall, whence the visitor can either go west to the City (Fenchurch-street-station), or east, to Limehouse, Poplar, East and West India Docks, or Blackwall. Passengers between Hampstead or Camden- roads, Caledonian-road, Islington, or Dalston, and Hackney, Victoria-park, Bow, or Stepney, change car¬ riages at Dalston. The North London line from Broad- street is now so united to the metropolitan network of railways that passengers can book thence to Kew, Rieh- moud, and Putney, as well as to stations in the north, north-west, and eastern divisions. The Great Eastern District Railway also has its ter¬ minus at Liverpool-street, and books passengers to Hackney, Clapton, Stoke Newington, Snaresbrook, &c. 'The Metropolitan Railway, from Liverpool-street and Hoorgate-street, joins the East London to Aldgate, the London and Chatham, and all the South-Coast Railways to the network of lines north of the Thames, and so forms a connected line from the south-east to the north-west. It is open to Paddington and Ken¬ sington on the one side, and the Crystal Palace, &c. on the other. By its junction with the West London Railway it embraces all that portion of the metropolis, including Kensington, Broinpton, &c., and continues to Westminster, whence passengers are carried to the City, by the completion of the line under the Thames Embankment as far as the Mansion House station near Cheapside. East London Railway, from Liverpool-street and Aldgate to New-cross and Old Kent-road. London, Chatham, and Dover, stations at Farringdon- road and Holborn-viaduct, Ludgate and Victoria, to Dulwich, Brixton, Crystal Palace, &c. Trains also run from Moorgate-strcet to Brixton, &c. London, Brighton, and South Coast, London Bridge to Crystal Palace, Croydon, litigate, Brighton, Ports¬ mouth, &c. STEAM-BOATS.—The “ silent highway” is traversed by a number of regular steamers. Eastward there are boats to Rotherhithe, Greenwich, Woolwich, Blackwall, and Gravesend, from the piers at London-bridge. West- HOTELS AND DINING-BOOMS. 45 ward, between London-bridge and Chelsea. These call at the intermediate piers, and make a large number of trips daily, at fares varying between twopence and sixpence. Other boats proceed to places farther up the river— Hammersmith, Kew, Richmond, Twickenham, &c. In Summer boats go to and from London-bridge and Hungerford and Westminster, close to the West¬ minster Station of the Metropolitan Railway, about every five minutes. The Threepenny boats go from London-bridge to Chelsea (Cremorne-gardens) and Battersea every ten minutes; while the boats for Kew and Richmond generally start from Chelsea. Few, except excursion boats, and others engaged espe¬ cially, at times when the tide allows, proceed as far as Richmond. The Greenwich, Woolwich, and Blackwall boats run every twenty minutes between Westminster pier and Woolwich, stopping at several piers on their way. Their fares range between 2d. and 6d. They also work in con¬ junction with the Blackwall and North Woolwich rail¬ ways, so that visitors may go to either of these places by boat and return at night by rail. The steamers for Gravesend, Margate, Ramsgate, and more distant places start from the eastci n side of London- bridge, from Blackwall and Thames-Haven piers, as well as from the piers above bridge. The times and fares are always advertised in the daily papers. HOTELS, APARTMENTS, AND DINING-ROOMS. For persons who can afford to pay for good accommo¬ dation there is one invariable maxim—the best hotels are the cheapest. Avoid Leicester-square. The following list includes some of the most convenient hotels in London:— West — Albemarle, 1 , Albemarle-street. Albion, 25, Cockspur-street. Albany , 240, Great Portland-street. Almonds’ (Private), Clifford-street, New Bond- street. Bath and Cheltenham, 23 and 24, London-st. ' Butt's, 41, Dover-street. Boar and Castle, 6, Oxford-street. Bristol, Burli ngton- gardens. Brunswick House, 10, Hanover-square. Burlington, Old Burlington-st. and Cork-st. C/aridge’s, 49, Brook-st. Grosvenor-sq. Cox’s, Jermyn-street. 46 HOTELS AND DINING-ROOMS. Ford’s, Manchester-st., Manchester-square. Great 7 Festern Royal, Craven-road, Pad¬ dington. Midland, St. Paneras. Grosvenor, Buckingham Palace-road. Hatchett's, Piccadilly, aud Dover-street. Langham, Portland-place. Long’s, 16, New Bond-street. Love's, Albemarle-street. Norfolk-square —2, 4, and 6, Norfolk-square. Queen’s, Cork-street, Bond-street. St. James's Hotel, Piccadilly. Thomas's, Berkeley-square.—Private. Western Counties —8, London-st, Paddington. Westminster Palace Hotel, Victoria-street. Central —Golden Cross, 452, Strand. Charing Cross Hotel, Terminus, Charing-eross. Crown, High Holborn, opposite Chancery-lane. Inns of Court and Great Central, 269, High Holborn. Huston and Victoria, Euston-grove, Euston- square. Great Northern, Terminus, Eing’s-cross. Horseshoe, 264, Tottenham-eourt-road. Feela’s, 177 & 178, Fleet-street. Craven, 45, Craven-street, Strand. Mor ley’s, Trafalgar-square. Adelphi, John-street, Adel phi. Mitre, 155, Chancery-lane. Bedford, Evans's, Richardson’s, Tavistock, all in Covent-garden (Market). Anderton’s, 164, Fleet-street (and Dining¬ rooms)- Southampton, Soutkampton-buildings. Somerset, 162, Strand (and Dining-rooms). Haxell’s Royal Exeter— 370-375, Strand. Queen’s, St. Martin’s-le-Grand. Lay's (Private), 8 and 9, Surrey-st., Strand. Salisbury (Agricultural), Salisbury-square, Fleet-street. Royal Surrey, Surrey-st., Strand. Cannon-street Terminus. Cathedral, 48, St. Paul’s Churchyard. Castle and Falcon, 5, Aldersgate-street. Bridge House, London Bridge. He Keyser’s New Royal Hotel, Embankment, Bridge-street, Blackfriars. HOTELS AND DINING-BOOMS. -17 Dolly's, Queen’s Head Passage, Newgate-street. Edinburgh, Finsbury- square. Kennaris. Crown-court, Cheapside. Seyd’s, Finsbury square. George, Borough High-street. Yorkshire Grey, 53, Lower Thames-street. APARTMENTS.—The visitor who intends to make a long stay in London will do well to take apartments. These he may iind at moderate prices in all the suburbs, especially at Islington, Kensington, and Pentonville. At the West-end apartments may be obtained from ten shillings a week for a single bed-room, use of sitting- room and attendance, to two or even three guineas a day for accommodation of a more pretentious ehai’acter. At coffee-houses and taverns in the neighbourhood of the City and in the suburbs, beds and breakfasts may be obtained at all rates, from a shilling to a crown. Asa rule avoid temperance hotels, which—strange as it may appear—are neither clean nor economical. There is no necessity to order wines or spirits, if you do not wash it, at any of the hotels here mentioned. De gustibus non est. DINING-ROOMS.—In the matter of dining London presents many aspects. The visitor may dine well and respectably for a shilling, or luxuriously for a guinea. He may lunch, dine, or sup in the style of the first Parisian and American hotels, at the grand luncheon bullet and dining rooms of the “ Criterion,” in Piccadilly, lie has all the choice between a quiet chop or dish of meat and vegetables, at rooms like Lake's in Grace- chureh-street, for about a shilling or fifteenpence ; and a “ three-course and dessert” spread at the Gaiety Res¬ taurant, Strand, “ The Ilolborn,” a magnificent dining saloon in High Ilolborn, with its daily table d’hote, accompanied by high-class music, “ The Lombard," an admirable and economical restaurant in Lombard- court, Lombard-street. Those who require a good dinner at a moderate price may go to the London, or the Rainbow, in Fleet-street ; Simpson’s, in the Strand ; the Mitre, in Mitre-court ; or the Solferino, Rupert-strcet, Haymarket. If' his taste and business take him to the City, he will lind himself well served at the Grasshopper, known as “Lake’s,” in Graeeehurch- street ; at a new and magnificently decorated restaurant — The King's Head ,at the corner of Mark-lane, Fenchurch- 48 LUNCHEON BARS AND PASTRY-COOKS. street; and at the famous palace of Richard III., known as Crosby Sail, in Bishopsgate. A great variety of dinners at very moderate prices, from one to ten shillings, may be obtained at Crosby Hall. The City Restaurant, Milk-street, has a series of excellent “ Scotch Buffets,” at which visitors help themselves both to wines, spirits, ale, or viands. For real turtle and cold punch, there is Painter’s, the Ship and Turtle, in Leadenhall-street, and the well-known Birch’s, in Corn- hill. Messrs. Spiers and Pond’s restaurant at Mansion House station, Queen Victoria-street, is noted for a good dinner. Many excellent hotels and taverns have a luncheon-bar, at which during the day you may have a chop, or a snack for sixpence, or a plate of hot meat, with vegetables and bread, for about eightpence. These are to he found in the Strand, Fleet-street, Holborn, and the City. For a first-rate cup of tea or coffee try Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate; The King's Head, Fenchurch-street; or Groom’s, next The Rainbow, Fleet-street; and if you want to smoke, play chess, take coffee, and lounge at one and the same time, go to Crosby Hall new smoking-room, or to The King's Head, where there is the largest and loftiest smoking-hall in London. By all means dine at the table d’hote at The Holborn, where an excellent selection of music accompanies the six o’clock dinner. Ladies will find special pro¬ vision for comfort there ; at Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate ; at Lake’s, Gracechurch-street, and at almost all the prin¬ cipal stations on the Metropolitan line of railway. There is also a six o’clock table d’hote at the Criterion and at St. James's Hall, Piccadilly. EXHIBITIONS, AMUSEMENTS, &c. Agricultural Hall, Islington. Smithfield Club Cattle Show and Horse Shows held here. Various amusements for some part of the year during the evenings. Alexandra Palace. Xot now open. Will he reopened hortly. Aquarium, "Westminster. A light and spacious build¬ ing, containing tanks of living fish and marine animals, a good collection of pictures, a theatre with evening per¬ formances, concerts, and miscellaneous amusements, and skating rink. Admission Is. MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS, ETC, 49 Architectural Exhibition , 9, Conduit-street, and Mu¬ seum, Bowling-street, Westminster. Antiquarian Museum, Guildhall.—Open every day; admission free. (Seep. 70.) Bank of England. —To see the interior, the cellars, the machines for weighing coin and printing notes, an order must be obtained from the Governor, Deputy- Governor, or a Director. Hours, ten till four. (See p. 56.) Bethnal Green Museum , Victoria-square, top of Bethnal-green-road. The loan collection of pictures, china, porcelain, and fine art objects. Also collection of food products and other interesting objects. Admission 6d.; Saturdays, Mondays, and Tuesdays free. Botanical Gardens, Regent’s-park, during the summer by tickets. British Museum, Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury.— Contains the finest permanent collection in the world of objects belonging to every department of human know¬ ledge, especially Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, Roman, Etrus¬ can, and British antiquities, minerals, fossils, preserved animals of all varieties, and books. (See p. 101-3.) Coal Exchange Museum, Lower Thames-street.—First Monday in the month from twelve to four. Free. Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea.—-Landscape paintings, on an immense scale, in the gardens ; concerts, &c. Admis¬ sion Is. Open at three. (See p. 176.) Crystal Palace, Sydenham.—The various routes are by railway from London-bridge, from the Victoria Station at Pimlico, or from Clapham junction on the South-Western line, from Kensington, from all sta¬ tions on the Metropolitan railway, and from Victoria, Ludgate, and Great Northern Railways to the new high level station opening into the centre transept. Palace and Gardens open on Mondays at nine, Saturdays at twelve, the other days at ten; closed at sunset. Charge, Is. (See p. 182.) Dulwich Picture Gallery. —Every day in the week except Sunday from April to November, ten till five; from November to April, eleven till three. Admission free. A new gallery has now been built, to which the pictures have just been consigned. Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. — Entertainments and various popular amusements. (See p. 125.) Greenwich Hospital. —Daily after twelve. Guildhall and Library. —Open daily ; free. Variou sculptures, &c. (See p. 71.) E 50 MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS, ETC. Hampton Court Palace. —By South Western Bailway from the Waterloo Station. Fare, there and back, Is. Picture Gallery and State Apartments are open every day, without charge, from two to four in winter and two to six in summer, including Sundays. Houses of Parliament. —At any time during the session the public are allowed to walk through the vestibule (Westminster-hall) and St. Stephen’s-hall, to the octagon and corridors. These no stranger should miss seeing. The Parliament-halls may be visited on Saturday, from ten to four, by tickets, obtainable at the Lord Chamber¬ lain’s office, in the Victoria Tower, on the previous Wednesday. To hear debates it is necessary to obtain member’s order. India Museum, Exhibition Galleries, South Ken¬ sington.—From ten to four. Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, id. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 6d. New Gardens. —Free. (See p. 175.) Linncean Society, Burlington House, Piccadilly.— Natural History Collection. Admission, by member’s order, Wednesday and Friday; the Library on Tuesday and Thursday. Madame Tussaud's Exhibition of Waxwolk, and other Curiosities of Art, Baker-street, Portman-square.—Open from eleven a.m. to ten p.m. Admission Is. Mansion House. —The famous Egyptian Hall and State Apartments may sometimes be seen from eleven to three, on application to the attendant. (See p. 66.) Monument, near London-bridge.—Open from nine till dusk'. Admission 3d. Museum of Practical Geology, entrance 28 to 32, Jermyn- street.—Containing a valuable collection of stones, ores, and marbles. Ojien free from ten to four every day in the week, except Friday. National Gallery, Charing-cross.—Free on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. (See p. 88.) National Portrait Gallery, South Kensington. (See p. 51.) . , . . Newgate, the oldest prison in London, is situated in the Old Bailey, and was rebuilt in 1770-1783. To view the interior, an order must be obtained from the Secretary of State, the Lord Mayor, or one of the sheriffs. (See p. 94.) Picture Galleries. —In Pall-mall and the neighbour¬ hood the various societies of artists have their spring and _ [h|l«L ]gn§ri gt Hi Tjtff 1 ill 1 1 h British Mti»eum. 2. Soane’* Museum. S. South Kensington Museum. 4. Society of Arts. 5. Dulwich College. 6. College of Surgeon* National Galleiy MU3EUHS, EXHIBITIONS, ETC. 51 winter exhibitions, to each of which admission is one shilling. Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent-street.— Open from one to five, and from seven to ten. Popular lectures by professors, scientific exhibition, curious machinery in motion, dissolving views, &c. Admission Is. Royal Academy, Burlington House, Piccadilly.—Daily, from May to July. Is. Catalogue Is.; evening, 6d. Catalogue, 6d. (Seep. 125.) Royal Exchange, Cornhill.—Open daily till four. The public are at liberty to walk through ; but to see Lloyd’s Rooms, the introduction of a subscriber is requisite. (See p. 59.) Royal Horticultural Society Exhibition Gardens, South Kensington. Band and frequent fiower-shows. Out¬ door season, May 1 to Oct. 31. Indoor, Nov. 1 to April 30. Experimental gardens at Chiswick open daily, except Sundays, from 9 a.m. Mondays 6d., other days Is., except on special days. Royal Mint, Tower-hill.—May be viewed by an order from the Master’s office, Little Tower-hill, available only for the day and the number of persons specified. (See p. 145.) Rosherville Gardens, Gravesend.—Admission 6d. Society of Arts, John-street, Adelphi.—Museum of objects connected with the arts and sciences, models, machines, &c. Admission bv a member’s order every day, except Wednesdays and Sundays, from ten till three. (See p. 85.) Soane Museum, 13, Lincoln’s-inn-fields.—Containing statuary, paintings, antiquities, models, and drawings, &c. Open Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, in April, May and June, and Wednesdays only from February till the end of August, from ten till four. Cards of admission to be obtained by written application to the Curator at the Museum. (Seep. 101.) South Kensington Museum. —It consists of two divi¬ sions : the first, devoted to Art, comprises a library and museum, with the sculpture and architectural collections, and the galleries of paintings, including the .National Portrait Gallery; the second, devoted to Science, com¬ prising the educational museum, the food and animal product collections, and the loan collection of scien¬ tific instruments. The Museum is open to the public free, on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, from ten 52 MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS, ETC. a.m. till ten p.m. On Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fri¬ days, the charge for admission is 6d., and the time from ten a.m. till five p.m. Admission to National Portrait Gallery on Wednesday and Saturday from twelve a.m. to live p.m. St. James's Hall, Piccadilly.—“Entertainments,” Con¬ certs, &c.—Every evening at eight, and Monday, Wed¬ nesday, and Saturday at three. Is. St. Paul’s Cathedral. —The body of the church open free. Charges :—To the whispering gallery and two out¬ side galleries, 6d.; to the ball, Is. 6d.; to the library, great bell, geometrical staircase, and model rooms, 6d. ; to the clock and crypt, 6d. (See p. 72.) Surgeons’ Hall (Museum of the Royal College of Surgeons, including the Hunterian Museum), Lincoln’s- inn-tields.—Open on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Admittance by fellow or member’s order, from twelve till four ; closed all September. Temple Church. —Open from Monday to Friday, for inspection ; or the service, which is a full choral one, may be attended on Sunday morning. Tower of London. —Open daily, from half-past ten till four o'clock, Sundays excepted. Free on Mondays and Saturdays. Tickets to be obtained at the entrance- gate. A warder is in attendance to conduct parties in waiting. Admission to the armouries, 6d. each; to the crown jewels, 6d. (See p. 141.) Trinity House, Tower-hill.—A collection of curi¬ osities. United Service Museum, Whitehall-yard.—Admittance by a member’s order, from eleven till four or live. Westminster Abbey. —To view the whole of the abbey enter at Poet’s Corner door, Old Palace-yard. Vergers are in attendance from nine to six every day, except Sun¬ days, Good Friday, Christmas Day, and General Fasts. There is no charge for admission to the nave, transept, and cloisters, and it has been proposed to admit the E ublic also to the choir and chapels free of charge, at ours between service times. Choir services every day, including Sundays, at ten a.m. and three p.m. (See p. 115.) _ Westminster Hall. —Free during the whole day, or any hour at which Parliament or the Law Courts are sitting. Zoological Gardens, Eegent’s-park.—Open from ten till dusk. Admission, on Mondays, 6d.; every other day, lu. Children at all times, 6d. (Seep. 132.) 1. St. James’s Hall 4. Exeter Hall. 2. The Oxford. 5, The Alhambra. 3 Canterbury Hall. 6 Crystal Palace Concert Room THEATRES—SITUATION, PRICES, ETC. 53 MUSIC HALLS. Evans's, Covent Garden. Canterbury, Westminster- bridge-road. London Pavilion, Tichborne-street. Metro¬ politan, Edgware-road. Oxford, 6, Oxford-street. Royal, 242, High Holborn. South London Palace, London-road. THEATRES. For the nightly attractions at the various theatres see the advertisements in the daily papers. The following alphabetical list of the London Theatres gives their situa¬ tion, the usual character of their performances, and prices of admission. Except the two Opera-houses, the time of opening the doors is generally half past six, the performances commencing at seven. Drury Lane, Covent Garden, the Haymarket, the Lyceum, and Sadler’s Wells are known as Theatres Royal. The others place the word “royal” before their titles. What are called the “ minor theatres” are those in the suburbs. Adelplii, 411, Strand; proprietor Mr. B. Webster; manager Mr. Chatterton. Melodrama, domestic drama, farce, &c. Prices, from 6d. to 7s. 6d. Alhambra, Leicester-square. Burlesque, opera bouffe, and ballet. Prices, from Is. Aquarium, Broad Sanctuary, Westminster. Various. Prices, Is. to 4s. Astley’s (now Sanger’s) Amphitheatre, Westminster Bridge-road. Equestrian performances, drama, operas, &c. Prices, 6d. to 5s. Britannia Theatre, Hoxton Old Town; proprietor, Mrs. Lane. Melodrama, farce, and pantomime. 2s., Is., 6d., 3d. Court Theatre, Sloane-square. Comedy, drama, farce, operetta. Covent Garden, Bow-street, Covent-garden ; lessee, Mr. Gye. Italian opera and ballet. Private boxes, two to six guineas, to be hired of the music-sellers ; 10s. 6d., 7s. and 5s.; amphitheatre, 2s. 6d. Criterion, adjoining, or rather beneath, the great restaurant in Piccadilly, from which it is reached by a line staircase. Comedy, burlesque, &e. &c. Is. to 7s. Gd. Drury Lane, Catherine-street, Strand. Tragedy,drama, ballet, farce, pantomime, according to season. 5s., 4s., 3s., 2s., Is., or higher prices for opera. 54 THEATBES—SITUATION, PBICES, ETC. Duke’s, High Holborn, opposite Chancery-lane. Drama, farce, burlesque, &e. 6d. to 7s. 6d. Folly, King William-street, Charing-cross. Bur¬ lesque, &c. Gaiety, 345, Strand; lessee and manager, Mr. John Ilollingshead. Drama, operetta, farce, ballet, &c. Globe, Newcastle-street, Strand. Drama, farce, &c. Grecian, Eagle Tavern, City-road ; proprietor, Mr. B. 0. Conquest. Domestic drama, farce, ballet, &c. Haymarket, east side of Haymarket; lessee, Mr. Buck- stone. Comedy, farce, and occasionally tragedy. 5s., 3s., 2s., Is. (Seep. 120.) Hengler’s Equestrian Circus, Argyll-street, Begent-st. Her Majesty’s Theatre, Haymarket. Lyceum, Wellington-street, Strand. Drama, farce, &c. 5s., 4s., 3s., 2s., Is. (See p. 84.) Olympic, Wych-street, Strand. Drama, comedy, farce, and burlesque. 4s., 2s., Is. Opera Comique, 299, Strand. Opera bouffe and bur¬ lesque. Pavilion, 85, Whitechapel-road. Melodrama, farce, and in the winter season hnglish opera. 2s., Is., 6d., 3d. Open at six. (See p. 156.) Philharmonic, High-street, Islington. Opera bouffe ballet, &c. Prince of Wales', 21, Tottenliam-street; managers, Mr. and Mrs. Bancroft. Comedy, drama, farce, &c. Princess’s, 73, Oxford-street. Queen’s, 91 to 93, Long Acre. Royalty, Dean-street, Oxford-street. Melodrama, bur¬ lesque, farce. St. James’s, 23, King-street, St. James’s. Comedy, opera bouffe. Standard, 204, High-street, Shoreditch; proprietor, Mr. John Douglas. Melodrama, farce, and spectacle, oc¬ casionally tragedy and opera. 2s., Is. 6d., Is., 6d., 4d., 3d. (See p. 154.) Strand, 168, Strand; lessee, Mrs. Swanborough. Farce, burlesque, &c. Surrey, New, 124, Blackfriars-road. Melodrama, farce, and pantomime, occasionally tragedy, comedy, and opera. (See p. 166.) Vaudeville, Strand. Comedy, burlesque,and farce; under the direction of Messrs. Thorne and D. James. Victoria, Waterloo-road, Lambeth. (See p. 167.) There are a few other minor theatres in London, such 1. Covent Garden t heatre, ♦. Lyceum Theatre. 2. Drury Lane Theatre. S. Princess’s Theatre. 7- Her Majesty's Theatre 5. H&ym&xket Theatre. 6. Adelphi Theatre. THE CITY TO THE WEST-END. 55 as the Marylebone , the Effingham, Whitechapel, the Garrick, Leruan-street, Whitechapel; the Variety, Pit- field-street; and also several music halls not included in these notes. FROM THE BANK TO CHARING CROSS. Bank—Royal Exchange—Mansion House, Govern¬ ment of London — Poultry — Cheapside — Bow Church—Guildhall — Sr. Paul’s—Doctors’ Com¬ mons — Blackfriars Bridge — Fleet Street — Strand—Charing Cross. -“ Where has commerce such a mart,— So rich, so thronged, bo drained, and so supplied, As London ? Opulent, enlarged, and still Increasing London 1”— Cowper's Task. Standing by the Wellington statue in front of the Exchange, the stranger has before him one of the most remarkable sights in London : he is in the very heart of the City. The open space in front receives the contribu¬ tions of eight important thoroughfares—Cornhill, Thread- needle-street, Lombard-street, King William-street, from the east; Walbrook, Prince’s-street, Cheapside, and Cannon-street, in the other directions; on his right is the Bank of England, on his left the Mansion House, while before him lies the crowded but famous Cheap¬ side ; behind him is the Royal Exchange and Cornhill, while on either side streets lead to London-bridge and. Islington. This is the most crowded, and perhaps the most in¬ teresting part of the City. From morning to night vehicles of all descriptions pass and repass in every di¬ rection, while pedestrians move to and fro in apparently never-ending processions. In the early part of the day the absence of the gentler sex from the neighbourhood will strike the stranger as peculiar, but towards noon, in line weather, the omnibuses bring them in tolerably large numbers to the Bank and St. Paul’s-churchyard. More people, and more omnibuses and cabs, perambulate the space in front of the Bank and the Mansion House than at perhaps any other place in the world. The visitor may as well pause for a little while, and look about him from this spot. Within a circuit of half a mile are most of the great City banking-houses, insurance offices, 56 THE CITY TO THE WEST-END. and commercial establishments. The Stock Exchange and Lombard-street are -within a stone’s throw of the Bank, and less than an hour’s walk in any direction will bring the stranger to any desired point within that part of the metropolis known as “the City.” The centre of London has the reputation of being always dark and smoky. “ I reached London,” says Guizot, in the account of his English embassy, “ towards the close of the morning. I had travelled- under a clear cold sun, which entered, like myself, into the vast fog of the City, and suddenly became extinguished there. It was still day, but day without light. As I passed through London nothing particular attracted my attention. Public build¬ ings, houses, and shops, all appeared to me little, mono¬ tonous, and meanly ornamented; everywhere columns, large and small, pilasters, statuettes, and embellishments of all kinds; but the whole strikes by its extent. London conveys the idea of unlimited space tilled with men in¬ cessantly and silently displaying their activity and their power.” This impression made, above thirty years ago, upon the mind of a great statesman is that which is sup¬ posed to be present to every “intelligent foreigner” who visits our city. But twenty-five years produce great changes. The “smoke nuisance” no longer creates the “ fog of the city,” and the dull uniformity in dress and appearance which then characterized all Englishmen has been mitigated by a greater variety of garments, and the fashion of wearing beards and moustachios. There is little to excite the visitor’s admiration in the first general aspect of London, though much to elicit his wonder and astonishment. The very immensity of London is a quality that rather grows upon acquaintance than is apparent at first sight. In the great thoroughfare from the Bank to CliariDg-cross there are comparatively few important public buildings, and not many com¬ mercial or trading establishments of the first class; yet in this line of street , with its monotonous rows of brick houses, the most important business transactions are being carried on day by day, year after year. Let us briefly describe the principal buildings in the neighbourhood from which we start, and then pursue our walk towards Charing-cross. THE BANK OF ENGLAND.—The long low structure to the right of the Wellington Statue is the Bank of England. The building covers eight acres of ground, and in its business employs nearly a thousand clerks, THE BANK OF ENGLAND. 57 porters, and servants. It is the greatest monetary esta¬ blishment in the world. It was founded in 1691 by William Patterson, a Scotchman, and received its Act of Incorporation in 1694. The business of the Bank is con¬ ducted by a governor, a deputy-governor, and board of directors, twenty-four in number, eight of whom go out of office annually, but they are eligible for re-election, and generally serve for several years. The governor must be a proprietor of bank stock to the amount of at least 4000/.; the deputy-governor, 3000/.; and each director at least 2000/. In the Bank Parlour they meet, and arrange the current rate of discount and declare the dividend on their stock, which is seldom less than seven per cent. The price in themoney market of 100/. Bank of England Stock is generally about 230/. The amount paid in salaries—a few of which are very handsome—is about 220,000/. a year. The management of the National Debt, which amounts now to about 800,000,000/., is entrusted to the Bank, and the commission it receives for keeping the numerous accounts connected with that enormous sum— attending to the transfers of stock from hand to hand, re¬ covering the income-tax chargeable upon it, and paying the dividends to the several holders, is the comparatively small amount of 200,000/. per annum. The Bank of England is altogether a private trading establishment, like any other banking house in the City, with the ad¬ ditional privilege of issuing notes payable on demand. To give value to tbe notes there is usually kept in the Bank from fifteen to twenty millions in bullion, besides Govern¬ ment and other securities. Each bar of gold weighs about sixteen pounds, and is worth something like 800/., while the silver bullion is kept in ingots, and specie of various kinds, to a large extent in silver dollars, kept in bags. The original capital of the Bank was 1,200,000/., but various augmentations have from time to time taken place, till now the “ old lady in Threadneedle-street” is the richest old lady in the world; being worth 14,550,000/. capital. The building occupies the entire area bounded by Threadneedle-street, Prince’s-strcet, Lothbury, and Bartholomew-lane. Originally the business of the cor¬ poration was transacted at Grocers’ Hall, in the Poultry, but it was soon found that “ the principal bank of deposit and circulation, not only in this country but in Europe,” required more roomy and important premises. The present building was therefore erected from the plan of Mr. G. Sampson. It was subsequently enlarged by Sir 58 THE BANE OF ENGLAND. R. Taylor, aud finally altered and improved by Sir John Soane, till it assumed much of its present aspect. Strangers are permitted to wa’lk through the principal offices during the hours of business, from nine till four. In the Bullion Office is to be seen an ingenious and delicate apparatus for weighing gold and silver; and in the Weighing Office is Mr. W. Cotton’s machine for weighing sovereigns. The light pieces are separated from the rest, and pass into a receptacle beneath ; and so quickly is the operation performed that 35,000 gold coins can be weighed by one machine in a single day, piece by piece. There is also the printing of bank notes by a very ingenious series of steam machines, and the marking them in microscopic writing by a machine lately invented. There is a collection of ancient coins, which, with the cellars where the bullion is stowed, can be seen by presenting an order obtained from a governor. Within the walls of the Bank is a well- kept garden, and among the minor objects of interest is the clock over the Drawing Office. This clock has sixteen dials, so contrived that a face is seen in sixteen different offices. The principal entrance to the Bank is from Threadneedle-street. All day long crowds of persons are passing in and out of the various offices of the esta¬ blishment, of whom the beadles at the door seem to take no sort of notice; but only let a suspicious-looking person pass the gate, and his every movement is closely watched. The principal offices are the Pay Office , the Transfer Rooms, the Five-pound-note Office , the Post Bill Office, the Rotunda, and the Telling Room. In these last a scene of extraordinary activity is observable at those periods of the year when the dividends are pay¬ able. Clerks are seen shovelling about gold with in¬ difference, and what with the counting, weighing, changing, paying in, and carrying away, there seems no busier place in the world; and yet amid all this apparent confusion there are always eyes awake to every movement in the room, so that it happens that while robberies are not uncommon in other banks, very few indeed take place in the Bank of England. Forgery is frequently attempted, but it is always discovered when the spurious note reaches the Bank. The great and paramount object of the forger is to deceive the clerks, and actually pass the base notes into the Bank itself: hitherto this has been found impossible. Within the building there is a good library for the use of the em¬ ployes ; and perhaps no place of business in London THE BOYAL EXCHANGE. 59 is conducted with such regularity, care, and economy as the Bank of England. At night a small company of military and a few special clerks take charge of the building. The officers in charge and the soldiers have always provided for them a nice little supper, so that ser¬ vice at the Bank is looked upon as a pleasant privilege. In 1848, the parapet walls were raised, and the Bank in some degree improved and strengthened, in anticipation of Chartist riots, which never took place ! Several times during its existence the Bank has been threatened, and, as we have seen, once actually attacked. It is perhaps as strong a building as any in London, not even excepting Newgate. But we must hasten on; and while we are in the neighbourhood we may walk through THE BOYAL EXCHANGE.—In the space in the front stands the Bronze Equestrian Statue of the Duke of Wellington , and between it and the portico of the Ex¬ change is a pretty Drinking Fountain , erected in 1861 by the Drinking Fountain Association. It consists of a female figure holding in her hand a vase, from which flows a stream of pure water. The cost of the Wellington statue (exclusive of the value of the materials, which is about 1500/.) was nearly 10,000/., the whole of which‘was raised by public subscription. The celebrated Chantrey made the design, which is generally admired. The statue stands on a granite pedestal, on either side of which is inscribed—“Wellington. Erected June 18, 1844.” The Royal Exchange is the third building of the name that has stood on this spot. The first, that of Gresham, was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; and the second, and most celebrated, erected from the designs of Jarman, was burnt down in 1838. Both the old buildings had been honoured by royalty. Jarman’s Exchange is well known from the engravings, though probably few Londoners care to remember it, with its lofty bell-tower, its carved walls, and its statues of our kings and queens, from Edward the Confessor to George IY. The statue of the ill- fated Charles I. shared the obloquy of his memory, and was thrown down immediately after his execution, and an inscription in gold placed on the pedestal— Exit tyrannus , regum ultimas: “The tyrant is gone, the last of the kings.” But the disaffected citizens who so recorded their hatred of royalty were the first to recognise the claim of his suc¬ cessor on the throne, the “elegantand worthy ” Charles II. The foundation-stone of the present building was laid 60 EOTAIi EXCHANGE—LIOYD’s. by his late Royal Highness Prince Albert, on the 17th of January, 1842 ; and the new Exchange was opened by Her Majesty the Queen on the 28th of October, 1844. As we enter the quadrangle we perceive Westmacott’s Statue of Her Majesty in the centre. The small Turkey stones with which the inner space is paved are the iden¬ tical stones used in the former building, and the margin of freestone surrounding them plainly indicates how much larger is the space now appropriated to the mer¬ chants than it was formerly. All round, in the peram- bulatory, are what are known as the merchants’ “walks.” The present Exchange is 390 feet long from east to west; the quadrangle is 170 long by 112 wide ; and the height of the tower is 177 feet. Not the least interesting part of the Exchange is the suite of apartments at the east end, known as "Lloyd’s,” which word is understood all over the world as indicative of the honourable body of under¬ writers, or ship-insurers, occupying these rooms. The agents of Lloyd’s are to be found in almost every seaport in the world; and, through the medium of the small daily paper known as “ Lloyd’s List,” shipping and com¬ mercial intelligence is promulgated all over the country. As soon as a vessel has sailed, it is notified in this little newspaper; when she is “ spoken” by another vessel, far out at sea, perhaps; when she arrives at her destined port; when she takes her departure thence ; when she reaches home again; or, haply, when she is lost by fire, or wrecked in the unfathomable waves, intelligence almost invariably reaches the underwriters at Lloyd’s with speed and certainty. Lloyd’s consists of two principal suites of rooms, one of which is open to the public, and the other reserved to subscribers only. Inserted in the wall nearly over the Captains’ Room, observe a marble slab comme¬ morative of the subscription raised in the City to reim¬ burse the proprietors of the Times on the termination of the cause “ Bogle v. Lawson.” In this case the Times fearlessly denounced a gang of swindlers who were going about the Continent with forged letters of credit. One of the suspected parties—Bogle, a banker—brought an ac¬ tion against the Times for libel, which the proprietors of that paper defended, putting a plea of justification upon the record. By means of this timely exposure the gang was completely routed. Bogle obtained a verdict in his action against the Times; but so thoroughly did the merchants appreciate the good service done the commer¬ cial community, that a subscription was instantly raised ROYAL EXCHANGE—MANSION HOUSE. 61 to pay the law expenses of the proprietors. This they nobly refused to put into their own pockets, choosing rather to defend their position ; and a munificent gift to the City of London School, known as the “ limes- Scholarship,” together with this tablet, and a similar one over the door of the printing-office of the paper, was the result of their refusal. The roof of the “ covered walks” is artistically em¬ bellished in real fresco, from designs by Frederick Sang. Various statues and arms adorn the interior and exterior of the Exchange; and round the outer wall are a series of shops, after the fashion of the previous building. The ltoyal Exchange Assurance Company occupy the apartments at the west end of the building, corresponding to Lloyd’s rooms. On the top of the tower is the grasshopper, which formed the vane of the old Exchange. The grasshopper was the crest of Gresham, and the legend goes that he assumed it from having, when a babe, been discovered by his nurse close to the river’s edge, to which he had crawled, she having been led thither by the chirp of the insect. Close to the Royal Exchange, at the corner of the area at the back of the building, is the statue raised by the admirers of the late George Peabody, the American merchant, who, in 1869, gave half a million of money to be spent in building dwellings for the labouring classes. THE MANSION HOUSE.—It may be as well, in this place, that we should say something of the Civil Govern¬ ment of the Metropolis. The City and its Liberties are under three distinct modes of government, Civil, Military, and Ecclesiastical. The civil divides it into wards and precincts, under a Lord-Mayor, twenty-six Aider- men, two Sheriffs (who are also Sheriffs of Middlesex), two hundred and thirty-six Common Councilman, a Re¬ corder, a Chamberlain, a Common Serjeant, a Town Clerk, a Solicitor, and various subordinate officers; the mili¬ tary is under the authority of a Lieutenancy, vested in the Mayor, Aldermen, and principal citizens, the City being by charter a county corporate and lieutenancy in itself: and the ecclesiastical is directed by a Bishop, Archdeacon, and subordinate clergy. The civil govern¬ ment of the City bears a general resemblance to the legisla¬ tive power of the empire; the Lord-Mayor exercising some of the functions of monarchy, the aldermen those of the peerage, and the common council those of the third branch of the legislature: the principal difference is, that the 62 CIVIL GOVEBNHENT OF LONDON. Lord-Mayor himself has no negative. The laws for the internal regulation of the City are wholly framed by these officers acting in common council; and the administration of them is also exclusively in the corporation, the Lord- Mayor being chief magistrate, and the aldermen justices of the peace. The Lord-Mayor is chosen annually, in the following manner:—On the 29th of September, the livery, in Guild¬ hall or common assembly, choose two aldermen, by show of hands, who are presented to a court, called the Court of Lord-Mayor and Aldermen, by whom one of the aider- men so chosen (generally the first in seniority) is declared Lord-Mayor elect; and, on the 9th of November following, he enters upon his office. Should a poll be demanded, it commences on the same day, and terminates on the sixth day following. The two sheriffs are chosen annually by the livery, not only for the city, but for the county of Middlesex, the same persons being sheriffs for London, and jointly forming one sheriff for the county ; and it is their duty to inspect the prisons, summon impartial juries, keep the courts of law, and execute all writs and judg¬ ments. The sheriffs are sworn in at Westminster, on the 30th of September. The aldermen are chosen for life, by the householders of the several wards, being freemen, one for each ward. The common councilmen are chosen an¬ nually, by the householders, being freemen, in their several wards, the number for each ward being regulated by ancient custom, the body corporate having a power to extend the number. The livery is a numerous, respect¬ able, and important elective body, being the liveries of the several companies, in whom resides the election of Lord- Mayor, sheriffs, chamberlain, bridge-masters, ale-conners, and. auditors of the chamberlain’s accounts, all of whom are chosen by their respective guilds or companies, from among the freemen forming the body of the livery. The Lord-Mayor, aldermen, common councilmen, and livery of London, form together the most important popular assembly (the Commons House of Parliament excepted) in the United Kingdom. There are various courts in the City for trying civil and criminal causes, as well by the judges of the land as by the officers of the corporation. The Lord-Mayor, the Kecorder, the Common Serjeant, and the Aldermen are judges to try capital offences and misdemeanours within the city and county of Middlesex. The principal courts are held at the Guildhall and the Sessions-house in the CIVIL GOVEBNMENT OF LONDON. 63 Old Bailey. Southwark was long independent of the city of London, but in consequence of the inconvenience arising from the escape of malefactors into that district, Edward III. granted it to the City, in consideration of the annual payment of 10?. It was then called the village of South¬ wark ; and afterwards the bailiwick, a bailiff being ap¬ pointed by the corporation to govern it. In the reign of Edward VI., it was formed into a twenty-sixth ward, under the name of Bridge-Ward Without; and it is always bestowed on the senior alderman, it being con¬ sidered as a sinecure, and, consequently, as best adapted for the “ Father of the City.” Westminster, in respect to its local jurisdiction, is a distinct city, the government of which, both civil and ecclesiastical, was once vested in the Abbot and Con¬ vent of Westminster; but, since the Reformation, in the Dean and Chapter, the civil part being by them com¬ mitted to laymen. Of these the high-steward, who is generally a nobleman of rank, has an under-steward, who officiates for him, and is commonly chairman of the Quarter-Sessions. Next to the high-steward is the high- bailiff, chosen also by the dean and chapter. His power resembles that of a sheriff; for by him juries are sum¬ moned, and he makes the return at the election of mem¬ bers of Parliament. The police regulation of the stiburbs is vested in the Chief Commissioner, who is appointed by the Government, and in the Home Secretary. Justices of the Peace for Mid¬ dlesex and Surrey, assisted by stipendiary magistrates, sit to administer justice at the several Police-courts. The principal court is at Bow-street ; and since 1829, when the old system of watching the streets by old men (“Charleys” or “Watchmen”) was abo¬ lished and Peel’s Police Act established, the police system has been organized and vastly improved. The City still retains and regulates its own police. The City Police Offices are at the Guildhall and the Mansion House. The Metropolitan Offices are severally known as Bow-street, Marlborough-street, South¬ wark, Marylebone, Westminster, Clerkenwell, Lam¬ beth, Worship-street (Shoreditch), Greenwich, Hammer¬ smith, and the Thames. The last has jurisdiction over all offences committed on and about the river; several well-manned boats, or galleys, being kept con¬ stantly rowing to-and-fro between Gravesend and Westminster. To these has been added a system of horse- g4 THE METBOPOLITAN BOAED OF WOEK8. patrol, so that London is perhaps the best ordered and quietest city in Europe. The nightly watch is of peculiar utility in case of fire, as in every police station the names of the turncocks, and the places where engines are kept, are to be found. Pro¬ tection from fire is insured by the Fire Brigade, lately extended and placed under the direction of the Metro¬ politan Board of Works. To this brigade the fire insurance offices contribute a large sum yearly. Fire-engines and fire-escapes are stationed in various districts, with active men and horses. Telegraphic signals communicate from one station to another. By means of the fire-plugs water is quickly supplied, and the general security is guaranteed by every effort of vigilance and activity. The local management of the whole metropolis is vested in the Metropolitan Board of Works, whose offices are in Spring-gardens. Its members consist of delegates from the City and the several Metropolitan vestries. The City nominates three members, six of the vestries nominate two each, and thirty districts return one each. A salary not to exceed £2000' per annum is assigned for a chairman. The board entered upon its duties in December, 1855, and after a warm contest with Mr. Roe¬ buck, Mr. John Thwaites, delegate from Greenwich, knighted on the occasion of the opening of the Main Drainage Works, was elected permanent chairman. He is since dead, and is succeeded by Col. Hogg. Mr. J. W. Bazalgette was appointed to the office of engineer to the board. The consent of the First Commissioner of Works was at first required before the Board could initiate any plan, whether for drainage, new streets, or otherwise improving the metropolis. This provision brought things to a dead lock, and nothing could be done, until in 1858, under Lord Derby’s Government, the ne¬ cessity for adopting some drainage plan became urgent. Mr. Disraeli brought in a Bill during that session to or¬ ganize the Board of Works into a regular and indepen¬ dent corporation. The control of the Chief Commissioner of Works was removed, and the Board was rendered practically irresponsible either to Parliament or to the ratepayers. At the same time the scheme for interceptive drainage, now supposed to be in operation over the whole metropolis for an area of 117 square miles, was introduced at an enormous cost of about £5,000,000. With respect to the Thames Embankment, great hopes THE METROPOLITAN BOARD OF WORKS. 65 have been formed by the public of the ornamental nature of this stupendous work. It seems, however, that so far as one important portion of it is concerned this hope is doomed to disappointment. Vested interests oppose the removal of a number of shabby houses. Little or nothing is proposed to be done on the Southern bank ; and certain open spaces which were to be laid out as gardens have been neglected, while attempts are made to seclude them from the public, to whom they belong, since the work has to be paid for by a metropolitan rate. The Board of Works constructed in several thorough¬ fares, at a large expense, subways for the use of the gas and water companies, to avoid the too frequent disturbance of the pavement. It was found, however, that the companies, almost without exception, refused to use these subways, and an attempt to make their employ¬ ment compulsory failed. The money, therefore, laid out in this way has for the present been practically iost. A parliamentary Report, issued in April, 1866, says : “ Besides the project for improving the approaches to the Thames Embankment, at a cost of 270,000/., the Board of Works proposes to embank the river at Chelsea ; to improve Park-lane ; and widen High-street, Kensing¬ ton, at a total cost of 669,000/.” The Report gives the following summary of the expen¬ diture which was intended to be incurred for improve¬ ments in different parts of the metropolis ; Thames Embankment, north side, with proposed ap¬ proaches, 1,973,610/.; New street from Blackfriars to Mansion House, 1,299,260/.; Garrick-street, 125,446/.; Middle-row, llolborn, 61,000/.; Holborn Valley Viaduct, 586,000/.; Widening Park-lane,105,000/.; Widening High- street, Kensington, 88,000/.; Southwark-street, 596,706/.; Victoria Park approach, 43,430/.; Whitechapel-street, 175,000/.; Finsbury Park, 59,567/.; Southwark Park, 69,271/.; Chelsea Embankment, 206,000/. ; Lambeth Em¬ bankment, 909,000/. ; making a total between six and seven millions sterling for past and projected improve¬ ments. This sum is in process of collection by means of a rate of threepence in the pound upon all the rate¬ able property in London, and from the coal and wine duties. The amount collected and expended during 1867-8, for these objects, and the works of Metropolis Main Drainage, Essex Reclamation, the Eire Brigade, was above three millions, while, during 1870, fresh F 66 THE MANSION HOUSE AND THE POULTRY. loans for £1,180,000 were contracted, making the total indebtedness for loans, £6,903,366. Most of the works mentioned are nearly completed, and another great ap¬ proach from the Thames Embankment to Trafalgar Square has been formed by the removal of Northumber¬ land House and the adjoining buildings. Quitting this subject, we now return to our starting- place opposite the Mansion House. The Mansion House was built in 1739 by George Dance, a retired ship-carpenter, whose chief recommenda¬ tion as architect is said to have been that he was a citizen! It had originally a sort of quarter-deck roof, which was taken down a few years since. Lord Burlington sent in a view of a pediment by Palladio, the great Italian architect. But the City Solons rejected it, on the inquiry sf an alderman—“ Who was Palladio ?—was he a freeman ?” This not very handsome structure is at once the civic palace and the civic tribunal of the Lord Mayor, as sovereign and magistrate of the City. Here that great functionary gives those princely entertainments in which all that is high, powerful, and notable in the empire hold a part. Here for twelve months, he maintains that state in which the 8000L allowed for it are often swallowed up in about half the time. The Egyptian-hall, Venetian- parlour, state drawing-room, ball-room, long parlour, and state bed-room, though, perhaps not of the purest taste in the world, are gorgeous and imposing apart¬ ments. From the west side of the Mansion House, the new Queen Victoria-street runs to Cannon-street and Blackfriars. In Queen Victoria-street is the “ Mansion House” Station of the Metropolitan Railway. Near the south side of the Mansion House, we see the masterpiece of Sir Christopher Wren, St. Stephen’s, Walbrook. This beautiful church is well worthy a visit. The roof is supported by several noble Corinthian pillars, and the altar-piece, by West, representing the burial of St. Stephen, is one of the finest pictures by llmti artist THE POULTRY. This short street connects Cornhill and Cheapside. It was once famous for its Compter , in which, in 1772, the last slave imprisoned in England was confined. There is little worth notice in the Poultry, bey ond the fact (if it be one) related in Nicholls’ Literary Anecdotes. We are told that Charles II. stopped on his return from the Mansion House after his restoration to CHEAPSIDE—THE CE0S8 AT CHEPE. 67 salute the wife of one William King-, who kept the King’s Head tavern (now pulled down), in consequence of hear¬ ing that the lady, who was in an “interesting situa¬ tion,” had expressed an earnest desire to see the gallant monarch. No. 31 was the shop of Vernor and Hood, booksellers, where the famous Thomas Hood was born in 1798. The church of St. Mildred's in the Poultry has been pulled down for improvements. It was burnt in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. In the old church was buried (in 1580) John Tusser, author of “Five Hun¬ dred Good Points of Husbandry.” Formerly prisoners committed by the Lord Mayor were sent to the Poultry Compter, and prisoners committed by the sitting magis¬ trates, to Giltspur-street, which prison was pulled down a few years since. At the end of the Poultry, inclining to the south-east, is Bucklersbury, formerly the resort of grocers, drysalters, and herbalists, but likely soon to disappear in City improvements. Sir Thomas More lived in this street. We now reach CHEAPSIDE, the centre of the retail trade of the city, and its most busy and crowded street. Cheapside derives its name from having been the market of the Ward of Chepe. It was the northern boundary of Koman London, all beyond being marsh and bog. Howes, writing in 1631, calls Cheapside the “ Beauty of London.” It has for many years been cele¬ brated for its hosiers’, mercers’, and jewellers’ shops. This street is full of historical recollections. At the end of Wood-street, just opposite the tree, stood the Cross, one of the nine erected by Edward I. to the memory of Eleanor, his queen, on the various spots where the body rested on the way from Lincoln to Westminster ; the cross at Chepe was the intermediate resting-place between the villagesof Charing and Waltham. The history of this in¬ teresting memorial is worth recording. It was set up in the year 1290, “ re-edified in a most beautiful manner” in 1441, “ new gilt over” in 1552, in honour of the visit of the Emperor Charles V.; again gilt the next year by favour of Henry VIII. on his marriage with Anne Boleyn ; “ new burnished” on the coronation of Edward VI.; gilt in 1554, on the visit of Philip of Spain ; “ broken and defaced” in 1595 and 1600 ; and finally demolished on the 2nd of May, 1643, in the mayoralty of the regicide Isaac Pen¬ nington, to the noise of trumpets, the tramp of horses, and the cries of the multitude. v 2 68 CHEAPSIDE—HISTORICAL GOSSIP. Any of the streets to the left will lead you to the Thames, the “ noblest commercial river in the world,” restored to its true relation to this great City by the embankment, which enables us to see it to ad¬ vantage. Before the days of water companies, and when Lon¬ don was much smaller than it is now, there were two famous Conduits in Cheapside; one at the east end near the Poultry, and the other in the centre of the roadway opposite Old Change. The Standard in Cheape stood in front of Bow Church. In 1196 William Fitzosbert, alias Longbeard, came with his followers, and alarmed the inha¬ bitants of Cheape, and made an assault on Bow Church. After a severe struggle, which lasted several days, this rough reformer, whose opposition to the taxes on the poor caused him to head the sedition, was taken, as he issued from the church, in the midst of tire and smoke, and brought before “the archbishop in the Tower, where he was by the judges condemned, and by the heeles drawn from thence to a place called The Elmes (without Smith- field) and there hanged with n vne of his fellowes.” Here it was, in 1381, that Wat Tyler caused Richard Irons and others to be beheaded. In 1450, Jack Cade, “ lord of London,” did a like cruel service on the same spot to Lord Say. In the reign of Edward III. “ divers joustings were made in this street between Soper’s-lane and the Great Cross,” says Stowe; and in the year 1510, on St. John’s Eve, Henry VIII. came privily “in the livery of a yeoman of the guard,” with a halbert on his shoulder, to look after the guard; and being satisfied with the way they kept watch and ward within the City, came right royally on “ St. Peter’s night next fol¬ lowing,” and with his queen and nobles “ beheld the watch of the city, and departed in the morning.” In 1517 the riot, known as “Evil May-day,” took place in Cheapside. It arose, as many other riots have done, from the jealousy of workmen at the encourage¬ ment given to foreign artificers who had settled in the City between Temple Bar and Aldgate. “Prentice rows” were common in those days; and from the Evil May-day the setting up of a May-pole in Cheapside was discon¬ tinued. Several houses in Cheapside are historical. No. 73 was used as the residence of the Lord Mayor before the erection of the present, so called, Mansion House; it was afterwards the dwelling-house and place of busi- CHEAPSIDE—MERCERS’ HALL. 69 ness of the celebrated Thomas Tegg, the bookseller, and in which he made a fortune. The house was afterwards used as an insurance office, then as an hotel and dining-rooms, and now it is occupied by Messrs. Mead and Co.’s mart for croquet implements, cricket bats, toys, and all manner of indoor games. Notice the lock and safe sellers, Messrs. Hobbs and Hart. Ilobbs was the American scientitio lock-picker of the Exhibition of 1851. See also the London Stereoscopic Company’s showrooms. In 1635 Charles I. dined at the house of Bradborne, the “ great silkman.” No. 90, the corner of Ironmonger- lane, was the residence of Alderman Boydell. The con¬ cluding plate of Hogarth’s “Industry and Idleness’’ represents the City procession entering Cheapside, then a very different looking street to what it is now. In Cheap¬ side is the Hall of the Mercers’ Company. The facade is a well-sculptured design, with emblematical figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity; and the entrance in Iron¬ monger-lane is adorned with pillars supporting an arch, the keystone of which is the arms of the company. Within the hall are preserved several curious relics of the famous Whittington “thrice lord mayor of London.” Cheapside is divided about the centre by King and Queen streets; the former leads to the Guildhall and the latter to Southwark-bridge. At the eastern corner of King-street is the Atlas Insurance Office, a fine building. Notice just before you come to Bow Church, on the same side of the way, the shops 65 and 66, of Sir John Bennett, Alderman, ex-sheriff, watchmaker and jeweller, with their illuminated Clock, and the Timeball which falls daily by a current of electricity from Greenwich. The figures, one of which strikes the hours in the recess in front of this shop, attract a large number of passers-by to stare at them daily, and the interior of the shop is frequently visited by foreigners. On the opposite side, some distance further on tow'ards St. Paul’s, is Saddlers’ Hall, which is well worthy a visit. The Saddlers’ is the twenty-fifth on the list of the City Companies, and although considered among the minor companies,itisatonce ancientandhonourable. Frederick, Prince of Wales, the father of George III., was once a spectator of the Lord Mayor’s show from the doorway of the hall, in remembrance of which honour the saddlers made him master of this company. 70 CHEAPSIDE—BOW CHURCH. In the reign of Edward III. jousting was held in Cheapside, and a great wooden scaffold was erected where the Q,ueen Philippa and the ladies of the Court witnessed the sports. This broke down on one occasion and was then superseded by a platform or shed of stone. We must now say a word or two about BOW CHURCH (St. Mary-le-Bow).—This fine church was built by Sir Christopher Wren, after the Great Fire. It has an excellent peal of bells and a projecting clock. It was the sound of the bells of the first Bow Church that is said to have recalled Whittington to the City as he sat disconsolate on Highgate Stone. The steeple, of Portland stone, is 200 feet high, and is considered a fine specimen of church architecture. It is surmounted by a gilt vane in the shape of a dragon. An old prophecy says— When the Gresham Grasshopper And Bowe Dragon both shall meet, On England’s royal throne No King shall dare to sit. This doggrel prophecy was perhaps thought to be ful¬ filled a few years after the accession of our beloved Queen, for the grasshopper and the dragon were both sent to the same workshop at the same time to be regilt. Beneath the clock is the gallery which took the place of the platform or shed at which royalty, in gone-by days, was wont to witness the pageantry of the Lord-Mayor’s Show. The crypt, now filled with coffins and lumber, is a fine specimen of the Norman style. Several celebrities have been buried in Bow-church, within the sound of whose bells all who are born are (or used to be) styled “Cock¬ neys.” In Bow churchyard are the extensive premises of Messrs. Copestake, Moore, and Co., the eminent silk- mercers. We go down King-street to THE GUILDHALL. — In this noble hall, and the adjoining apartments, are held the city parliament and various courts of law. Here the Lord-Mayor and Sheriffs of the city are elected, and here, too, the liverymen vote at the elections for members of parliament. The Lord- Mayor’s Dinner, on the 9th of November, is always held in the Guildhall, which may be considered the Town- hall or Hotel cle Ville of the city of London. Guildhall was originally built between the years 1411 and 1431, before which the corporation and citizens held their meetings in Aldermanbury, a street in Cripplegate ward, now prin- CHEAPS1DE—THE GUILDHALE. 71 cipally occupied by wholesale drapers, silk mercers, and Manchester warehousemen. The building- was much damaged by the Great Fire; but it was afterwards restored from designs by Dance in 1789. The Great Hall is 153 feet in length, 48 in breadth, and 55 feet in height; the east and the west windows are adorned with stained and painted glass, which gives a rich mellowness to the light. In 1865-6, under the superintendence of Mr. Grace, the archi¬ tect,andduring the mayoralty of Alderman Phillipps, this ancient hall was restored iu the original style, with a fine raftered Gothic-roof, &c., instead of the flat ceiling which formerly hid the old timber roof. The ancient colossal figures of Gog and Magog are exalted on lofty pedestals on either side of the west window. They are of wood, and hollow. Notice the monument in commemoration of the patriot Beekford, lord-mayor in 1779. He is represented in the attitude in which he ad¬ dressed George III., in reply to an unfavourable answer to a petition from the City : also the statues of the great Lord Chatham, by Bacon; his son, sometime Chancellor of the Exchequer, by Budd; and the immortal Nelson, by Smith. There is considerable grandeur in the monuments of the two Pitts; and some parts of that of Nelson are deserving praise. The arms of the various city companies adorn the walls. The new Library and Museum have just been completed : the former contains a large number of valuable books, the latter a tine collection of cu¬ riosities. Admission free, daily. QUEEN STREET is only remarkable for having in it the churchyard of St. Thomas the Apostle, a church de¬ stroyed by the Great Fire and not since rebuilt. Queen- street is the original Soper-lane. Here was the tavern called the “ Three Cranes in the Vintry,” mentioned in Scott’s Kenilworth, Ainsworth’s Star Chamber, and im¬ mortalized by Ben Jonson. Strype says that the street itself was first called after the name of the tavern. At the bottom of the street is SOUTHWARK-BRIDGE.—This fine bridge consists of three cast-iron arches, which rest on stone piers. It was designed by Sir John Rennie, and erected in 1815 by a public company, at a cost of 800,000/. It was publicly opened in April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 240 feet, and the weight of iron employed is about 5780 tons. At the west end of Cheapside is the Statue of Sir Robert Peel, executed in bronze from the design of Behnes, in 72 CHEAPSIDE—ST. PAUL’S CATHEDBAL. 1856 ; the right hand street is St. Martin’8-le-Grand, in which is the General Post-office, of which we shall speak in the next chapter; while to the left is 81. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. — This great building rears its noble proportions over the ashes of many churches. First, there was a Christian church here belonging to the very earliest times of the Christian religion. It was destroyed during the persecutions of Diocletian. The second was raised, by way of restoration, in the reign of the great Constantine, the Roman Emperor. The early Saxon heathens destroyed this. The third structure dates as far back as 610, in which year Sebert, the sub¬ king of Ethelbert, sovereign of Kent, and the first Saxon monarch who was a Christian, rebuilt a church on the old site. At this time, on the recommendation of St. Augustine, Melitus, the first Bishop of London, was ap¬ pointed. This church, which was a noble edifice, im¬ proved and adorned by many successive bishops of London, from St. Erkenwald, the fourth after Melitus, was de¬ stroyed by fire with a large part of the metropolis in 10S3. Immediately after this, Bishop Mauritius set about the fourth and still finer cathedral, commonly called in our day “ Old St. Paul’s”—the vast and venerable fane which was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. The present, or fifth church took thirty-five years in the building. The first stone was laid in 1675, and the last in 1710. Thecost, which amounted to747,954/. 2.s. 9 d., was defrayed by a small tax on coal, one architect (Sir Christopher Wren) and one mason (Mr. Thomas Strong) only being employed in its construction. The most recent great public event in connexion with St. Paul’s was the great Thanksgiving Service held in the Cathedral for the recovery of the Prince of Wales from a serious illness in February, 1873. The circumference of the building is 2292 feet, or within 343 feet of half a mile. From east to west it measures 510 feet; from north to south, 282. Width of body of church, 100 feet. The elevation of the Cross from the foundation is 404 feet; and from the floor of the base- menc, 365 feet. The height of the cross itself is 30 feet. The weight of the ball is 5600lbs.; that of the cross, 3360 lbs. The moment you enter the building you are struck by its lofty vaulting, and the noble concave with which it soars upwards. It is full of monuments, some of which are very striking. It also contains a good library. sr. Paul’s cathedral—charges. 73 The curiosities are the Geometrical Staircase, which hangs without any visible support; the Model-room, containing Sir C. Wren’s original and favourite model of St. Paul’s, and a model of St. Peter’s at Rome; the Great Bell, which sends its peal to a distance of twenty miles on a fine day, the Whispering Gallery, in which the slightest whisper at one end is heard, as if close to the ear, at the other end, 150 feet away, and in which the clapping of a door resounds like a discharge of artillery or a roll of thunder. All these things, with the vaults beneath, you may see, and you can also mount into the ball of the cross, and take a view from over the lofty gilt balustrade, for a series of charges, amounting in all to 3s.; which may be thus particularized :— To the Whispering Galleries and the two Outside s. d. Galleries. 0 (5 To the Ball. 1 6 To the Library, Great Bell, Geometrical Staircase and Model-room . 0 6 Clock and Crypt . 0 G 3 0 For part of each day, the body of the Cathedral is open free, but during divine service no other portion is allowed to be seen. Subscriptions are now being made for the completion of the Cathedral, which has never been alto¬ gether finished in its smaller details. In the old Cathedral, which stood, we are told, on the site of an ancient Temple of Diana, great enormities were practised. Plays and mysteries were performed, mer¬ chandise was publicly sold, the chapels and chantries were used as workshops, the vaults were turned into wine cellars, houses were built against its outer wall—a play¬ house amongst the number—lotteries were drawn at its gates, and a public thoroughfare existed through its doors. In one sense, therefore, its destruction was a benefit; for on the new building rising, Phoenix-like, from the ashes of the old, all these enormities were swept away for ever. Let us look around us. Here are the monuments to the “illustrious dead.” Step softly; we are on holy ground. Here are memorials of the great among all professions — soldiers, sailors, philosophers, lawyers, painters, poets, and one philanthropist. Many of the monuments in the area of the cathedral 74 st. Paul’s cathedral—monuments. are extremely fine, but it is impossible to describe them in this sketch. They record the memory of the following among other personages :—John Howard, Dr. Johnson, Sir William Jones, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Viscount Kelson, Captain Duff, Marquis Cornwallis, Captain John Cooke, Capt. Burgess, Capt. Faulkner, Capt. Miller, Capt. Hardinge, Major-Gen. Dundas, Capt. Westcott, the Generals Crawford and Maekinnon, Major-Generals Mackenzie and Langworth, Lord Rodney, Captains Mosse and Riou, Karl Howe, (Mr Ralph Abercromby, (an eques¬ trian monument,) Sir John Moore, K.B., Admiral Lord Collingwood, Sir Isaac Brock, Major-Gen. Houghton, Sir William Myers, and Major-Gen. Le Marcliant. The crypt contains the tombs of Nelson, Collingwood, Picton, Wellington, Turner, Lawrence, West, Fuseli, Reynolds, and other eminent persons. Notice the tomb of Wren, with its Latin inscription—“ Beneath lies Christopher Wren, the architect of this church and city, who lived more than ninety years, not for himself alone, hut for the public. Reader, do you seek his monument ? Look around !” The Dome is supported by eight immense piers, each of them forty feet at the base. The interior of the dome was painted by Sir James Thornhill, with an emblema¬ tical history of St. Paul, which, with other parts of the interior, has lately been put in repair. There are three domes, in fact—an outer one of wood covered with lead, and an inner, with a brick one between. In the choir are some fine carvings by Grinling Gib¬ bons, and the new organ (which was removed from the Panopticon in Leicester-square) is believed to be as fine a one as any in the country. The view from the Golden Gallery, or from the Cross, on a fine summer morning is superb. The open space in trout of the Great or Western Entrance has been vastly improved by the removal of the railings. The statue of Queen Anne will probably soon be a less conspicuous object. The thoroughfare round the Cathedral is known throughout the kingdom as St. Paul's Churchyard. The longer side is called the Bow, and the shorter one, which is open only for foot passengers, the String —the two avenues taking somewhat the form of a bended bow with the string rather loose. In the right-hand passage are several large drapers’ and silk mercers’ shops ; and at the corner nearest Ludgate-hill is the shop of Messrs. Griffith and st. Paul’s—“ bow and stbing.” 75 Farran, the successors of John Newbery, the bookseller, for whom Oliver Goldsmith wrote many hooks, and among others—so the story goes—the veritable history of “ Goody Two Shoes !” Between St. Paul’s Churchyard and Newgate-strect, on the right-hand, is Paternoster - row, the great mart for booksellers. At the upper end, on the south side, are the spacious premises of Longman and Co., together with those of Blackwood and Sons, the proprietors of “ Blackwood’s Magazine opposite is a line range of new buildings occupied by Messrs. Thomas Nelson and Sons, and Messrs. Hamilton, while lower down the “Row” are the warehouses of the Reli¬ gious Tract Society. In St. Paul’s Churchyard most of Shakspeare’s plays were originally published. Here, also, is the Chapter House ; and behind it is Amen Corner , in the enclosure beyond which reside many of the Cathe¬ dral authorities. In Stationers -Hall-court, the space between Ludgate-hill and Amen-corner, is Stationers’ - Hall, the hall of the Stationers’ Company. Here is kept the registry for copyright publications, and here also is published annually a series of almanacks. Several fine pictures are to be seen within the hall, and the portrait of Sir W. Domville, in his robes as Lord-Mayor when attending the Prince Regent and the Foreign Sovereigns at the Guildhall Banquet, in 1814. A fine stained-glass window, presented by Alderman Cadell, is worthy of examination. On the south side of the Churchyard (the Bow) are several noticeable buildings; the first house on the left is the Cathedral Coffee House, where there is good accommo¬ dation. Next is St. Paul’s School. This celebrated school was founded in 1512, by l)r. Colet, Dean of St. Paul’s, son of SiV H. Colet, Knt., twice Lord-Mayor. It was instituted for the free education of 153 boys, under especial regulations ; its ample endowments and manage¬ ment being vested in the Mercers’ Company. The School is divided into eight classes, or forms, and the children arc progressively advanced, according to their proficiency, from the first to the eighth. They are generally taught Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, and the ablest are initiated in various Oriental languages ; a certain number of the more eminent scholars are annually sent to the university, on exhibitions. Dean Colet was buried in Old St. Paul’s; and his effigy, in a shroud, is yet preserved in the vaults beneath the present Cathedral. The School-house is not an unhandsome though rather a singular building: the 76 st. Paul’s school—doctobs’ commons. central part containing the School, and the wrings, which are considerably more elevated, the dwellings of the masters. Beyond St. Paul’s School are the fine warehouses of Messrs. Cook, Son, and Co., and other firms dealing in what are known as Manchester goods. In the centre of the Churchyard, on this side, is Paul's chain, so called from a chain being formerly drawn across the road during Divine service in the Cathedral. Here lived the well-known Cocker, the arithmetician (“ according to Cocker”), who wrote a book called “The Pen’s Aristo¬ cracy.” Farther on is the entrance to DOCTORS’ COMMONS.—In this once celebrated em¬ porium of ecclesiastical and maritime law were the five courts in which all causes relating to wills, divorces, salvage and wrecks at sea were tried. Most of the law business connected with Doctors’ Commons has been re¬ moved to Westminster, and considerable alterations are in progress in this neighbourhood ; but in Godliman Street there are the offices for obtaining licences for marriage, &c., and remains of the various Archidiaconal and Ecclesiastical Courts, Court of Faculties, of Arches, &c. &c. Here also, near at hand, are the Admiralty Regis¬ trars’ Office and the Heralds’ College or College of Arms— the grand manufactory of family pedigrees, with coats of arms to match. In the Offices of the “ Kings-at- Arms” may be seen many very curious things—such as the pedigree of the Saxon kings from Adam, and various highly valuable MSS. The several appoint¬ ments in the Heralds’ College are in the gift of the Duke of Norfolk, hereditary Earl Marshal of England. Emerging from St. Paul’s-churchyard, and not for¬ getting to correct our watches by the celebrated clock— taking care to hold them tightly—we come on to LUDGATE-HILL.—This name is supposed to be de¬ rived from Lud, King of Great Britain before the time of J ulius Ca?sar. It was at one time called Bowyer-row, from the number of Bowyers’ shops there. Several fine shops will here attract attention. On the left, is the famous shawl and Indian emporium of Messrs. Ever- ington and Graham ; and a little beyond this as far as Bridge-street, houses have been demolished for new buildings. About the middle of Ludgate-hill, on the right, is the Old Bailey, in which is the prison of Newgate, described LUDGATE-HILL—BLACKFBIAES BRIDGE. 77 in the next chapter. Close by is Belle-Sauvage-yard, at one time containing a celebrated coaching-yard and hotel, where stage plays were wont to be performed before the establishment of regular theatres in London, and now principally in the occupation of Messrs. Cassell, Fetter, and Galpin, the publishers. Passing under the railway arch of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we come to Farringdon-circus and Ludgate-cireus and the crossing which divides Ludgate-hill from Fleet-street. On the right is Farringdon-street, on the site of which was once held the Fleet Market, and on its east side stood the Old Fleet Prison ; on the left is Bridge-street, Black- friars, the most prominent feature of which now is the station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, the line of which crosses the river by a bridge. Beyond this station is a great block of building, forming the central depot and wine cellars of Messrs. Spiers and Pond, the wine merchants and contractors, who have reformed our railway refreshment system. From hav¬ ing established a handsome restaurant in one of the arches of the railway, which they converted into a com¬ modious dining-room, they have extended their premises so greatly that they now have their various stores and warehouses in the buildings beyond. On the other side of Bridge-street several large buildings are in course of completion, but the whole neighbourhood of Blackfriars is still in a transition state. At the entrances to these streets are two obelisks — the Waithman Monument on the one side, and the Wilkes Obelisk on the other; this last was erected to the memory of John Wilkes, the politician, while, says Walpole, he was yet a criminal and a prisoner of state. Farringdon Market, a market principally for fruit and vegetables, is about to be discontinued. Looking down Bridge-street we catch a glimpse of BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE.—The old bridge was taken down in 1863, and the magnificent new bridge, as well as the great viaduct that crosses the Holborn Valley at the end of Farringdon street, was opened by her Majesty in state on the 6th November, 1869. These great works cost above two millions and a-half of money. The old bridge was erected between 1760 and 1768, at a cost of 152,840^., from the design of Robert Mylne. We now find ourselves in FLEET-STREET, so celebrated for its associations 78 FLEET-STBEET—NE W8PAPEE OFFICES. with literature and literary men. The house at the corner of New Bridge-street is on the site of that occupied by Alderman Waithman ; and on the opposite side is a post-office, postal telegraph station, and money order office. In St. Bride's church —which is approached through the opening next the publishing office of the merry “Punch”—were buried Ogilby, the trans- later of Homer; Wynkyn de Worde, the famous printer; the remains of the Earl of Dorset, the poet; and Flax- man, the sculptor; and in the passage by the side of the churchyard was one of the numerous London residences of Milton. No. 80, on the south side, is the office of “Fun,” a comic journal recently edited by the late Tom Hood, son of the poet. In Shoe-lane, on the opposite side, rare Ben Jonson held his revels; poor Thomas Chatterton was buried in the grave¬ yard of what was once Shoe-lane Workhouse. It was here that Samuel Boyce, the poet, when nearly dying of starvation, could not eat some roast beef because there was no ketchup with it! In Bolt-court and Johnson’s- court Dr. Johnson passed much of his life; and in Fleet-street he was so well known that he seldom stirred abroad, either to go to his club or his snug corner in the Rainbow tavern, without a crowd of followers. Anecdotes of Johnson and Fleet-street abound. In Water-lane (now called Whitefriars-street) lived John Filby, the tailor who made Goldsmith’s “bloom- coloured coat.” Praise-God Barebones was a leather- seller in Fleet-street. In Salisbury-court and Square, where once the Duke’s theatre existed, and which was then considered a rather fashionable locality, there lived John Dryden, the poet; Richardson, the novelist, w r ho had his printing-office in Blue Ball-court close by, and lived in the north-west corner of the square, where he wrote his “Pamela,” and “Clarissa Harlowe,” at the same time employing Goldsmith as reader or corrector of the press ; Lady Davenant, the widow of Sir William ; Sandt'ord, and Cave Underhill, the actor; and here died the female quack, Mrs. Daffy, the compounder of the noted elixir. In Fetter-lane, Dryden once lodged ; Hobbes of Malmesbury had a house; and Nathaniel Tomkins was hanged, on the oth of July, 1643, for parti¬ cipating in Waller’s plot to surprise the city. In Bell- yard lived Fortescue, the friend of Pope, “his counsel learned in the law;” and in Shire-lane, now half demo¬ lished and not easily found, Elias Ashmole the antiquary' FLEET-STBEET—THE TEMPLE. 79 had his dwelling-, and here Theodore Hook, while he lay under arrest at a bailiff’s, for his mismanagement of accounts as treasurer of the island of Mauritius, made the acquaintance of Dr. Maginn. In the time of James I. it was known as Rogue's-lane. Fleet-street is still celebrated for its printing and newspaper offices. The “ Alsatia” of old times, a place of refuge for thieves and debtors, was in Whitefriars, between Fleet-street and the river. St. Bride’s Church is well worthy notice for its tine steeple, considered one of Wren’s best examples. St. Dunstan's Church, before which formerly stood the two wooden giants, who struck the hours on two bells, is on the north side. They now perform similar duty in the mansion of the Marquis of Hertford, in Regent’s-park. In the yard of St. Dunstan’s is a stone statue of Queen Elizabeth, which formerly stood on the west front of Lud Gate. Near at hand is Chancery-lane, the Law Life Assurance office, and the “London” restaurant, where a very good dinner may be obtained. Nearly opposite is another well-known house, “The Rain¬ bow,” and near it “The Mitre,” once the resort of Dr. Johnson. Several well-known Banking Houses are also in Fleet- street—notably those of Hoare, No. 37; Child, next to Temple-bar; Gosling and Sharp, No. 19; and Praeds & Co., No. 189: William Mackworth Praed, the poet, was a member of this family. Two narrow turnings on the south side, near to Temple-bar, lead to THE TEMPLE.—This collection of buildings, the principal of the “ Inns of Court,” is so called from the Knights Templars, who removed hither, from Holborn in 1184. They resided here till their downfall in 1313, when the property passed to the Knights of John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner and Middle Temples were leased to the students at common law. At the dissolution of the religious houses the Temple became the property of the Crown; till, in 1608, James I. conferred the freehold on the Benchers of the Inner and Middle Temple and their suc¬ cessors for ever. Notice the Lamb and Flag over the en¬ trance gate. In the house No. 1, Dr. Johnson resided from 1760 to 1765. Over the doorway is an inscription telling us that “Dr. Johnson lived here.” The Temple has always been celebrated, and is frequently mentioned in the litera¬ ture of the last live hundred years. Two edifices in the Temple are highly interesting, not only for their 80 FLEET-STBEET—THE TEMPLE. historical associations, but as specimens of architecture— the Temple Church and Middle Temple Hall. The Church serves for both Temples. It was the church of the Knights Templars, and has been recently renovated, and its Norman work tastefully restored. It contains many monumental effigies and sculptured portraits of its ancient owners. It is more than 600 years old, and is considered one of the finest and most complete archi¬ tectural relics in the kingdom. To the east of the choir lie the bones of Oliver Goldsmith, and here are buried, beside other eminent men—Earl Pembroke, 1119; the learned Selden, 1654 ; Edward Gibbon, ancestor of the historian, and Howell, the letter-writer, 1666. Service is performed here twice a-day on Sundays, and generally well attended. Admission to view the Temple Church may be obtained by introduction of a member of either Temple. Middle Temple Hall has one of the finest known Elizabethan roofs. The hall is 100 feet long, 47 feet high, and 42 feet wide. Close by the Temple Gardens —one of the best-kept gardens in London, and celebrated by Shakspeare as the scene of the plucking of the red and white roses—the badges of the Houses of York and Lancaster —is the new Library, opened by the Prince of Wales, as his first public act on being called to the bar, in October, 1861. The new Inner Temple Hall was opened by the Princess Louise on the 14th of May, 1870, and inaugurated by a banquet on the 19th. Returning to Fleet-street, we pass Temple Bar into the Strand. Temple Bar, which must soon come down, is not one of the old City gates, but a comparatively modern (and ugly) erection, on the place where formerly only a bar, posts, and chains marked the boundary between the liberties of London and Westminster. The gate described by Strype was taken down after the fire; but both on that and the present gate (erected in 1670) the heads of rebels and traitors used to be displayed. The last heads so barbarously exposed were those of Fletcher and Townly in 1772-3. The curious custom of closing the gates, and not admitting royalty into the City until permission had been demanded of the mayor standing on the City side, was last observed when the Queen opened the Royal Exchange in 1844. Her Majesty was received by the Lord Mayor at Temple Bar on the occasion of the Thanksgiving at Saint Paul’s. The apartment over the gateway is leased to Messrs. Child, the hankers, by STEAND — ST. CLEMENT DANES. SI whom it was used as a depository for cash-books and ledgers. Close to Temple liar, on the right, a large number of old houses reaching from Clement’s-inn to Carey-street, Lincoln’s-inn-fields, have been pulled down, and on this site the New Law Courts are being erected. We pass through the “ City boundary” to THE STRAIN 1).—This broad and noble thoroughfare, even as lately as the days of Charles I., lay over on the north side to the fields of St. Martin, St. Giles, and Covent Garden; and it was a grass-grown way till the reign of Henry VIII. Now, it is almost the very centre of the metropolis, with as much of the capital to the west as to the east, though not quite as much to the south as to the north. The various streets leading out of the Strand, and occupying the place of the gardens that used to stretch down to the water’s edge, tell in their names the history of their foundation. These were built successively by the various great peers whom they indi¬ cate—Buckingham, Craven, Norfolk, Northumberland, &c. At the end of Buckingham-street is Villiers’ house ; and in the same place were the lodgings of Peter the Great when he resided in London. The streets on the left-hand side of the way, all along this route going westward, lead down to the Thames Embankment; and the streets on the other side, from Shoe-lane to Drury-lane, all lead towards Holborn, though the route is by no means direct. Beyond Drury- lane the streets on the right will take you into Oxford- street ; but if you are not careful you will lose yourself in the purlieus of what remains of Seven Dials and St. Giles’s—a neighbourhood into which you will scarcely venture without a guide. If your guide happen to be a policeman in private clothes, you will stand a chance of seeing some curious sights. But to return to the Strand. On your right from Temple Bar there is little of interest before you come to the church of St. Clement Dunes. This church was built in 1682, by William Pearce, from a design of Sir Chiistoplier Wren, on the site of a former edifice of the same name, which was said to have been called “Danes,” because in it were buried Harold, a Danish king, and others of his nation. In the churchyard of St. Clement the poets Otway and Nat. Lee lie buried. The “ Alexander the Great” of the latter is his only play which retains possession of the stage. On the opposite side is the office of the well- known Illustrated London News. On the right is the o 82 8TBAND—ST. CLEMENT DANES. entrance to Clement's-inn, an inn of Chancery, belong¬ ing to the Inner Temple. Clement’s-inn Hall was built in 1715, and the inn itself was a residence for students even in the time of Henry IV. In the play, Falstaff makes mention of this inn, where he says, “ I do remember him at Clement’s-inn, like a man made after supper of a cheese-paring.” The chambers of this inn are inhabited by reporters and other profes¬ sional gentlemen not strictly belonging to the law. In fact, the Temple, Lincoln’s-inn, and the other inns of court are not now, as formerly, confined altogether to the legal profession. In the garden you may notice the figure of a kneeling negro, who bears a sun-dial on his head. It was presented to the inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, after whom Holies-street, Clare-street and Market, and some other streets in this neighbourhood, are named. On the other side of the church is Essex-street, which leads down direct to the river. On the opposite side, running between the Strand and Drury-lane and Wych- street, is Ilolywell-street, so called from the former ex¬ istence of a spring or holy well. This street, which is a close, dirty thoroughfare, is principally inhabited by newsvenders and the sellers of cheap and second-hand books and clothes. There has been a talk for some years past of taking down the houses on the side abutting on the Strand, to widen and improve this part of the road. Close to Dane’s Inn is Carr’s well-known Tavern and Dining Rooms, famous for its cheap and excellent claret, Burgundy, and light wines. On the opposite side is Arundel-street, and some few doors farther on is the little theatre called The Strand, near which is “ Sainsbury’s,” a noted confectioner’s and perfumer’s, where thirsty souls may obtain delicious “ fruit drinks” and aerated waters. The Roman-bath in Strand-lane will repay a visit; the water is pure and cold, and the architecture of the building leaves little doubt of its antiquity. The Strand is famous for its newspaper offices ; in fact, from the office of the Morning Advertiser, in Fleet-street, to that of the Lancet, in the Strand, near Charing-cross, almost every court and alley contains a printing-office— sometimes two or three. In Fleet-street are the offices of the Standard, Daily Telegraph, Daily News, Punch, Fun, and other important papers. In Catherine-street, that of the Echo; and at the corner of Wellington-street is the office of the Queen, a lady’s newspaper, and The Field, STEAND—SOMERSET HOUSE. 83 the great authority on all sports and pastimes for gentle¬ men. In the latter street are the offices of the Morning Post, the Athenaeum, and All the Year Round; and if we come again into the Strand, we discover on the opposite side of the way the offices of the Globe, Sporting and Dra¬ matic News, Architect, Graphic, Observer, Bell's Life, the Illustrated London News, —a very world of broadsheets. The Gaiety 'Theatre, at the corner of Catherine-street, is a line building, which occupies the site of Exeter Change. Possessing ample means of entrance and exit, this is one of the handsomest and best conducted of the modern theatres, and has in connexion with it a very good restaurant and luncheon-bar. St. Mary-le-Strand (or the New Church) was built by the architect of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields—James Gibbs, in 1717, on the spot of ground whereon the ancient May-pole was wont to be erected. Pope, in his “ Dun- ciad,” makes this the spot where his heroes assemble:— Where the tall May-pole once o’erlooked the Strand, But now (so Anno and piety ordain) A church collects the saints of JDrury-lane t In Newcastle-street, which runs down from it towards Lincoln’s-inn, there was an old inn of Chancery, called Lyon s-inn, which was used by students of law as early as the time of Henry VIII. In Newcastle-street is the new Globe Theatre, an admirably-contrived building. In Wych-strect is the Olympic Theatre, rebuilt in 1849 in a very handsome manner. This was the scene of Madame Vestris’s principal triumphs, and Robson’s deserved sue- CGSSCS. SOMERSET HOUSE, formerly the palace of the Pro¬ tector of that name. Here, in the old building, Hen¬ rietta Maria, consort of Charles I., and Catherine of Braganza (Charles II.’s wife), held their courts. The present handsome and spacious building, however, dates only from 1776, and was planned by Sir William Cham¬ bers. It is now the seat of various Government and other offices, and the head-quarters of various learned societies. King's College is in the Eastern Quadrangle. The Navy Pay Office, the Inland Revenue Office, the Legacy Duty Office, the Poor Law Commissioners’ Audit Office, the Registrar-General’s Office, and various others, are also settled in Somerset House. Any inquiries respecting the University should be addressed here to the Registrar. The business of the Admiralty, like that of the In'and. G 2 81 THE LYCEUM—THE SAVOY. Revenue, is divided ; and the Board of Commissioners (commonly called t he Lords of the Admiralty) sit alter¬ nately at Whitehall and Somerset House. In the new win? fronting Wellington-street is the office of the Regis¬ trar-General, wherein many large and well-kept volumes is an account of every birth, marriage, and death which takes place in the whole country, no matter how rich or how poor the individual may be. In the various offices of Somerset House there are above 1700 clerks, ware¬ housemen, and porters employed, at a cost of something like 380,000/. a year. The rooms to the right of the Strand entrance -were formerly used for the exhibition of the pictures of the Royal Academy, and through these doors have passed, some hundreds of times, the most eminent British painters and sculptors of modern times—West, Fuseli, Reynolds, Opie, Sir Thomas Law¬ rence, and many others. Notice the Statue of George III., at the north end of the quadrangle, ana the fine bronze allegorical figure of The Thames. At the end of Wellington-street you will catch a glimpse of Waterloo-bridge, from the centre of which a good view of Somerset House and the adjoining build¬ ings, on both sides of the river, may be obtained. Oppo¬ site is the Lyceum Theatre, with entrances in the Strand and Wellington-street. It was at the Lyceum that Charles Mathews obtained his greatest successes. Opposite the Lyceum is THE SAVOY—once famous as the locality of the palace of the Dukes of Lancaster. Here is the chapel called St. Mary-le-Savoy, once a beautiful building, originally erected in 1505, and subsequently allowed to fall into decay ; it has recently been restored by the Queen. On the south side of the Strand, opposite Exeter Hall, is Simpson’s celebrated “Cigar Divan and Res¬ taurant,” an excellent place for a plain dinner, especially for saddles of mutton, which are here in perfection. The ADELPHI, built by and called after the bro¬ thers Adam, in 1768, on the site of old Durham House —a noble pile of buildings, with a fine terrace facing the river, and in which are four streets, called after the several builders, Adam, John, Robert, and William. The Terrace facing the Thames was in¬ tended as part of the (even then) contemplated em¬ bankment. Buckingham-street, close by, stands on the site of Buckingham House, and its owner has done ADELPHI—SOCIETY OF AETS. 85 something to immortalize his name and titles, for he has used them all in designating his property— George- street, Fibers-street, Duke-street, O/-alley, Buckingham- street. In John-street, Adelphi, are the rooms of the SOCIETY OF ARTS.—They are open every day except "Wednesday, in every month except September, to visitors provided with orders from members, and generally to strangers without even the formality of an order. Here honorary and pecuniary prizes are given for inventions, discoveries, and impi’ovements. The Society of Arts was founded in 1754, for the purpose of providing means to excite the emulation of artists and artisans. The late Prince Consort was its last president, and in this building it was that the idea of the Great Exhibition of 1851 was first mooted; and the plan for the International Exhibition of 1862 fostered and vitalized. In the Meeting Room are Barry’s line allegorical pictures, representing the “ Story of Orpheus,” “A Grecian Harvest-home, or Thanksgiving to the Rural Deities Ceres and Bacchus;” “ Crowning the Victors at Olympia “Navigation, or the Triumph of the Thames “ The Distribution of the Premiums in the Society of Arts and “Elysium, or the State of Final Retribution.” The Society of Arts has expended since its foundation, considerably above 250,000f. in the pro¬ motion of the arts and sciences. In the same street are the offices of the National Life Boat Institution, one of the noblest and most deserving societies in the world. Opposite Adam-street, in the Strand, is the Adelphi Theatre, a modern and handsome building, with a not very imposing exterior. In fact, the frontage towards the street is simply a house decorated and ar¬ ranged to afford an entrance to the theatre behind. Iron has been largely used in the construction of the Adelphi Theatre, which is one of the most popular and attractive in London. The Sanspareil formerly stood on this site. It had, like the present Adelphi Theatre, an entrance in Maiden-lane, where is to be found the noted oyster-shop known to the initiated as “ Rule’s.” A little to the east is the pretty new theatre, “ The Vaudeville." EXETER HALL is a building with a narrow but tall and conspicuous frontage, with a Greek inscription on the fascia of the pediment, alluding to the purposes for which the building was designed. The large Hall is chiefly used for oratorios, concerts, or polemical meet- 86 EXETEE-HALE—COVENT-GABDEN. 1 ings ; it was erected in 1831, and is capable of accom¬ modating upwards of 4000 persons seated. During the month of May many religious societies, as well as those for the abolition of slavery, intemperance, and late hours of business, hold their meetings here. There is a smaller hall beneath used for meetings, &c. Any of the turnings to the right—especially Southampton-street, a fine wide thoroughfare with several good hotels,—will lead to COVENT-GARDEN MARKET—the great emporium for dowers, fruit, and early vegetables for the London tables. It stands on the site of the convent garden for¬ merly belonging to the abbey of Westminster, and, as far as is known, was first used as a market in 1656. The quadrangle was formed in 1631, at the cost of Francis, fourth Earl of Bedford, on whose estate it stands. The piazza, which formerly ran quite round the square, was built after the design of the famous Inigo Jones. The market, however, occupied but little space, and it was not till the removal of the nobility further west, towards the latter end of the last century, that the entire area was appropriated to its present use. The market-house, was built in 1830, by John, Duke of Bedford, under the superintendence of an architect named Fowler. The revenues are collected by a small toll on each ton of potatoes and waggon of vegetables brought for sale, besides the rent of the shops in, and on each side of, the grand arcade. The best time for visiting Covent-garden is about five o’clock of a summer’s morning, or if to the central arcade, on Saturday afternoon, when the odour of the flowers and the bloom on the fruit and vegetables is quite delicious. Cut flowers used for bridal parties, theatres, balls, &c., are purchased here. A very considerable addition to the market has recently been made. Before we leave the market we must notice Evans' Grand Hotel, at the north-west corner, famous for its nightly concerts, and for chops, steaks, Welsh rare¬ bits, and stout—as well as for a valuable gallery of theatrical portraits; the Hummums, at the south-east angle, a famous family hotel; and the entrance, at the north-east corner, to the private boxes of the Italian Opera House, or Covent-Garden Theatre. Adjoining the theatre is “The Floral Hall,’’ a miniature kind of Crystal Palace, used for a flower show and conservatory. Open during the summer season. st. Paul’s chubch—charing-cross railway. 87 In Russell-stref.t once Btood tlie famous Coffee¬ houses— Will’s, Tom’s, No. 17, and Button’s,—so often mentioned in the Guardian, Spectator, Toiler, and other works illustrative of the history of the eigh¬ teenth century ; and the spot is hallowed by the names of Johnson, Garrick, Boswell, Savage, Goldsmith, Col- man, Sir Richard Steele, Foote the actor, Sir Philip Francis (the supposed author of “Junius”), Addison, Pope, Arbuthnot, and other famous spirits of bygone days. Nor must we quit the neighbourhood without a glance at ST. PAUL’S CHURCH—at the western side of the market, which was rebuilt in 1795 by Hardwick, after Inigo Jones’ original designs, on the site of the old church, destroyed by hre in the same year. In the ground attached to the church lies all that is mortal of Butler, the author of the immortal “Hudibras;” of Grinling Gibbons, the famous sculptor, of whom it was said that he could carve flowers in wood, which wanted nothing but colour and scent to make them pass for nature, and who carved the flowers, &c., on the pedestal of Charles’s statue at Charing Cross; and of Macklin, the actor, Sir Peter Lely, the painter, Wycherley, the dramatist, and Dr. Walcot (Peter Pindar). In front of the church, and facing the western entrance of the market, the hust¬ ings for the election of members of Parliament for West- minster were erected ; and here it was that Fox, Sheridan, Burdett, Henry Hunt and the Reformers were wont to hold forth. Returning through any one of the streets on the south we again reach the Strand. On the south side, nearly opposite St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, is the Charing-cross Hotel, behind which is the new station of the South-eastern Railway, one of the finest in Loudon. Directly in front of the hotel is a beautiful reproduction of the Eleanor-cross. We pass westward by several well-built houses — the Art Union of London ; the Loivther Arcade, the great holiday resort of children, since it is a bazaar of toyshops, music-sellers, &c.; and the well-known Golden Cross Hotel; and turning the corner at Morley’s Hotel, under which is the Charing-cross District Post-office, we find ourselves in TRAFALGAR SQUARE.—The most conspicuous ob¬ jects are : the Nelson Column, a line pillar, 177 feet high, erected in 1843, from a design by William Railton. The granite statue of the hero, by Baily, and the bronze bas- 88 TRAFALGAR-SQUARE. relief on the four sides of the base, which represent the “Death of Nelson,’’ by Carew; the “Battle of the Nile,” by "Woodington; the “ Battle of St. Yincent,” by Watson; and the “Battle of Copenhagen,” by Ter- nouth. The statue and these works cost above 28,000/. The lions at the base were the work of Sir Edward Landseer, and were not completed till 1868. The Equestrian Statue of George IV., by Chantrey, ori¬ ginally intended for the top of the marble arch at Buckingham Palace, cost the nation 9450/. The two fountains of Peterhead granite, though the water is con¬ tinually tumbling and playing over and into their granite basins, are by no means striking objects; see the Bronze Statue of Sir Charles Napier, by G. G. Adams, erected in 1857 ; and at the south-east corner, the bronze statue , erected in 1861, to the memory of Major-General Havelock, from the design of W. Behnes. From this spot, also, a tine view may be obtained of St. Martin’s Church. A tine new thoroughfare from the Embankment, called Northumberland-avenue, has been made where Northum¬ berland House stood. The corner of this avenue opposite Trafalgar-square will be occupied by the Grand Hotel, which is to he a very spendidly appointed building. Northumberland House which has been demolished was erected during the reign of James I. as a town residence of the Percys; and the church in 1721-26, by Gibbs, at a cost of about 37,000/. St. Martin’s church is a noble edifice ; and when it was built it was literally St. Mar¬ tin’s in the Fields, th ehouses of the nobility in that day extending no farther west than Covent-garden. Occu¬ pying the north side of Trafalgar-square is the NATIONAL GALLERY.—The National Gallery con¬ tains pictures by the best English, and of some of the greatest painters of the Italian, Spanish, Dutch, French, and Flemish schools. The present collection was formed from the nucleus of the Angerstein Collection of thirty- eight pictures, formerly shown in a house at Pall Mall, and purchased by the Government, in 1824, at a cost of 57,000/. From time to time various pur¬ chases and donation have been added to it, till, besides the Yernon Gallery, the Turner Gallery, and the Sheepshanks’ Collection (some of the pictures now exhibited at the South Kensington Museum, and which consist of paintings of the modern school, some of them the very finest of their class), it now numbers about 260 works of the ancient masters, as well as exquisite speci- 2. Guy’s Hospital. 5. Chelsea Hospital. 8. Brompton Hospital 10. St. Thomas’s Hospital. 3. St George’s Hospit-aL 6. Greenwich Hospital. 9. King’s College Hospital 1. St. Bartholomew’s. Hospital 4. Bethlehem Hospital. 7. Westminster Hospital. NATIONAL GALLERY. 89 mensby Lawrence, Reynolds, W ilkie,W est, Gainsborough, Turner, and the world-appreciated Hogarth. Official catalogues are sold inside, but good cheap lists of the paintings may be obtained at the doors. Sir Richard Westmacott’s Waterloo Vase and Joseph’s statue of Wilkie, in the Hall, are well worthy attention. The materials of which the vase is composed were taken during the Peninsular war from a French ship, which was conveying them to Paris, to convert them into a monument in honour of Napoleon’s victories; but, possibly, the easel with which Wilkie actually painted, and which is let into the side of the base on which the statue stands, will possess greater attraction for the artistic visitor. The principal specimens from the collection of paintings and diawings bequeathed to the nation by J. M. W. Turner are placed in the West Room. The National Gallery is open to the public free of charge on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, except in the month of October. The hours of admittance are, in the summer months, from 10 a.m. till 6 r.M., and in the winter months from 10 a.m. till 4 r.M.—The Royal Academy of Arts, in which from 1000 to 2000 works in painting, sculpture, and architectural design, are ex¬ hibited yearly, was formerly held at the eastern end of the National Gallery, but is now located at Burlington House, Piccadilly. This exhibition lasts from May till July, and the admittance fee is Is. The Royal Academy originated in the pictures contributed by Hogarth and others to the Foundling Hospital, and was afterwards held at Somerset House, whence it removed to the National Galiery in 1838, and to Burlington House in 1869. It consists of forty royal academicians, twenty asso¬ ciates, six associate engravers, a president, and secre¬ tary. The funds of the academy are derived from the money taken at the doors during the exhibition, and of late years it has been calculated that upwards of 60,000/. per annum has been so obtained. From the top of the steps in front of the National Gallery you will get a capital view of the whole Square, which with its vista leading to Westminster Abbey, Sir Robert Peel pronounced “the finest site in Europe.” The National Gallery, and the Guards’ Barracks behind stand on the site of the King’s Mews, a building once very extensive, and familiar to all Londoners. AVe are now at CHARING-CROSS, to the south of which is Whitehall 90 CHAEING-CBOSS—CHABLES’S STATUE. and Parliament-street , and to the west, Cockspur-street and Piccadilly. At the head of Parliament-street, looking towards Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parlia¬ ment, is the Statue of Charles I. This bronze eques¬ trian statue was cast by Le Soeur in 1633, and not bein» erected at the commencement of the Civil War, was sola for old metal by the Parliamentarians to John Rivet, a brazier, near Holborn Conduit, who disobeyed the order he had received to break it to pieces and cast it in the melt¬ ing pot. Producing some fragments of old bronze, he con¬ cealed thestatue till 1678, when the Government purchased the work, and set it up on its present site. The pedestal was made by Grinling Gibbons; and the plinth, which was formerly of Portland stone, was in 1856 renewed in granite, under the direction of Mr. G. G. Scott, the emi¬ nent architect. The space known as Charing-cross is that between the Strand on the east, Whitehall on the south, and Cockspur-street on the west. The name is probably derived from the village of Charing, though tradition has it that the place was so called after Eleanor, the chere reine (dear queen) of Edward I. At any rate, it was here that he set up the handsomest of the nine Crosses erected to her memory. A facsimile of this Cross has been placed in front of the Charing-cross Hotel, as al¬ ready mentioned. The other Crosses were at Lincoln, Northampton, Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. Albans, Waltham, and Cheap. The last halting place of the body previous to its interment in West¬ minster Abbey, was at Charing; and there, in 1291-4, with stone brought from Caen in Normandy, and marble from Corfe, in Dorsetshire, the goodly pile was raised. It stood a monument of royal love for more than three hundred and fifty years, and was at last, in June and July, 1647, pulled down by order of the Long Par¬ liament, and its stones used to pave the street before Whitehall! Two crosses still remain—one at Waltham and the other at Northampton. The site of Charing Cross was afterwards made the scene of the execution of many of the regicides. Here, in 1660, General Harrison was beheaded, with “ his face towards Whitehall,” and here, many years afterwards, Curll, the notorious book¬ seller, stood in the pillory. Being a very public place, proclamations were read at Charing-cross. Here, on the 21st of June, 1837, was proclaimed Victoria, our beloved Queen, whom God preserve. WEST BY WAY OF HOLBOBN. POST-l (FFICE TO MARBLE-ARCH. Post-Office — St. Martin’s-le-Grand — Newgate Street —Christ’s Hospital—Newgate—Old Smith- field—The New Meat Market—St. Bartholo¬ mew’s Hospital—St. Sepulchre’s Church—Hol- born Viaduct—Furniyal’s Inn—Gray’s Inn— Lincoln’s Inn—New Oxford Street—British Museum—Marble-Arch—Tyburnia. “ As clever Tom Clinch, while the rabble was bawling, Rode stately through Holborn to die in his calling, He stopped at the George for a bottle of sack, And promised to pay for it when he came back.” Swift, 1727. Another main thoroughfare East and "West is from the top of Cheapside to the Uxbridge-road, a continuous line of street, though bearing different names—Newgate- street, leading to the Great Holborn Viaduct and to High Holborn, New Oxford-street, Oxford-street —upwards of four miles in length. Starting from the Post-Office, we have St. Martin’s-le-Grand on our right, leading to Pentonville, through Alders- gate-street, Goswell Road, and thence, northward, to Islington, Highbury, Holloway, and Highgate. On our left are St. Paul’s and Ludgate-hill; while before us is the road we are about to traverse. But we must first diverge to THE POST-OFFICE.—This handsome building (with its fine branch office opposite, for cashing post-office orders and regulating the town delivery of letters) is the head-quarters of our unequalled postal system and of the electric telegraph system of the metropolis. The building was erected in 1829, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirlce, in the Ionic style. The main structure is 390 feet long, with a lofty portico. For postal purposes London is divided into eight districts, each one of which has a Central or General Office. An order may sometimes be obtained to admit visitors to the various departments of the Post-Office, many of which are very interesting. The principal building contains a large number of apartments appropriated to foreign and inland letters; and the addition of the 92 POST-OFFICE—GOLDSMITHS’ HALL. electric telegraph system to the business has greatly increased the amount of work and the number of employes. Behind there is a large courtyard, where are received and despatched the mail carts, vans, hags, &c., to and from the several railways and postal stations. The gross revenue from the Post-Office Letter Depart¬ ment is above four millions, of which a large pro¬ portion is profit. More than 20,000 clerks, sorters, and letter-carriers are engaged in the postal service of the United Kingdom. The inferior class of employes are very much underpaid, and hence the occasional post- office robberies. The Post-Office is strictly a Govern¬ ment office, and to properly carry on the correspondence of the country requires about 16,000 district offices and receiving houses and about 5000 pillar-boxes. Above eight hundred millions of letters pass through the Post-Office every year, of which immense number Lon¬ don takes and sends more than a fourth. In addition to these are eighty millions of newspapers and twelve millions of book parcels. The system of Post-Office Savings Banks has been found to work extremely well, and to this has been added the postal telegraph to all parts of the United Kingdom. On the opposite side of St. Martin’s-le-Grand, near the French Protestant Church, are the Money-Order and the District Office, the latter a large new building. Through the money-order offices in London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and the principal towns there pass yearly above fifteen millions of pounds sterling. Behind the Post-Office, in Foster-lane, is GOLDSMITHS’ HALL.—This is one of the Halls of the twelve great City Companies. Plate and jewellery are sent here to he assayed and stamped. The Hall has recently been renovated and contains many fine pictures and works of art; permission to view which may be obtained of an alderman or liveryman of the Company. The Hall, entirely of stone, was erected in 1835, from the design of Mr. Philip Hard- wicke, R.A. It is a fine specimen of Italian archi¬ tecture. In Aldersgate-street are a station of the Metro¬ politan Railway, and the Albion Tavern, famed for good public dinners; Jewin-street, in which was Jewin Chapel, containing John Bunyan’s pulpit; St. Botolph Church, erected in 1790, on the site of the old church, destroyed by the fire ; next, Little Britain, once famous NEWGATE-STREET—CHRIST’S IIOSPITAL. 93 for its booksellers’ shops; and a narrow entrance to Bartholomew Close, in which Milton once lived in obscurity, and Benjamin Franklin worked as a journey¬ man printer. Returning' to the Post-Office we enter NEWGATE-STREET, which takes its name from the New Gate, which was the fifth principal gate in the old Citv-wall. It stood across the present street a little east of the Old Bailey. In Panyer-alley, the first turning to the left, was an old stone, let into the wall of a new house, representing a boy sitting on a pannier, and bearing this inscription :— When y e have sovgh 1 the Citty rovnd Yet still this is the highs 1 grovnd. Avgvst the 27, 1688. Newgate-street is now is a transition state, in conse¬ quence of the completion of the Viaduct which leads across the Holborn Valley and Farringdon-street, and of the removal of Newgate Market from between Ivy-lane and the Prison. In Warwick-lane was the old College of Physicians, with its “ gilded pill” on the top. The College of Physicians is now in Pall Mall East, and pre¬ vious to its being pulled down the old building in War¬ wick-lane was used as workshops, and the lower part as butchers’ shambles ; but even as late as 1866 it con¬ tained some old statues and bits of antique carving. In Bath-street, on the north side of Newgate-street, is an old Roman bath, and a little farther on is CHRIST’S HOSPITAL, or the Blue-coat School , as it is generally called, from the costume of the scholars, which is that of servitors of the period of Edward VI., by whom the hospital was founded. The hospital consists of various school and other buildings, the gothic dining- hall, and the dormitories. It occupies the site of the Grey Friary, and has been enlarged and improved from time to time by Wren, Shaw, and other architects. It has a revenue of 50,000/. ; and though originally intended for the education and sustenance of poor fatherless chil¬ dren and foundlings, presentations are eagerly sought by persons belonging to the upper classes. A list of governors is printed every Easter, at which time the “ suppings in public” attract large assemblages of per¬ sons. Several scholarships belong to the hospital, to which the “ Grecians” are entitled. In Christ Church adjoining are preached the Spital 94 NEWGATE. Sermons every Easter Monday. A gift of 500/. con¬ stitutes a governor ; but certain persons—the Prince of Wales, the Lord Mayor, and the Court of Aldermen, Ac.—have free presentations. A branch school at Hert¬ ford contains some hundreds of children. The schools in Newgate-street accommodate 1200 children, of whom about 150 are admitted yearly. The cloisters, and various other parts of the ancient monastery, are included among the present extensive buildings of the hospital. In its early state, there was only a grammar school for boys, and a separate school for girls, who were taught to read, sew, and mark. Charles II., in 1672, founded a mathe¬ matical school and ward for forty boys, and Mr. Travers founded another similar school for thirty-seven boys. The writing-school was founded in 1694, by Sir John Moore, who was Lord Mayor of London, 1681. The general education is adapted to fit youth for mer¬ chants’ counting-houses and trades; but certain students are sent annually to Cambridge and Oxford, and pro¬ perly educated for the church. The boys are instructed by a head master, and eight assistant grammar masters, three mathematical masters, writing, drawing, French and music-masters. Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt, and Stirling of the Times, were “Blues.” The society of “ Old Blues” does a vast deal of good among their poorer schoolfellows. On the opposite side of the way is the prison of NEWGATE.—This is the principal prison in London. Here criminals sentenced to death for crimes committed in the county of Middlesex, suffer the last penalty of the law. The prison may be inspected on obtaining an order from the sheriffs or other officials. The antiquity of this building is prodigious, if viewed in connexion with •what it was meant to continue or restore ; for on this spot stood a lloman fort. If considered in its pre¬ sent capacity as a prison, it is still very ancient. During nearly 750 years have the guilty or the unfortunate heen here incarcerated. The prison, as we now see it, was begun by Dance in 1770, and not completed till 1783, after the partial destruc¬ tion of the former edifice by the rioters under the notorious Lord George Gordon ( see pages 18 and 19). An underground passage leads from the cells to the dock in the Old Bailey Sessions House. Notice in the prison- wall at the western end, in the Old Bailey, a door of iron, so constructed as to look like the stone wall of which it st. Bartholomew's hospital. 95 forms part. This door is opened for the removal or en¬ trance of prisoners, when the prison-van just fits the aperture, so as to prevent the possibility of escape. The Courts of the Old Bailey are nominally open to the public; but there is so much competition to see the trials, that a small fee to the door-keeper is found the most effectual means of securing- a good, or of bettering a bad place. These fees are, however, practically abolished, and on the occasion of great trials tickets of admission are issued by the aldermen and sheriffs. In the Bailey are the Central Criminal Courts. In these sit Her Majesty’s or the superior Judges; the inferior, or civic judges, the recorder, the common sergeant, and others. The more important cases are of course tried by the former. Another court is commonly improvised during a heavy session, with a Queen’s Counsel or serjeant as judge. At the western end of Newgate-street, and forming a line with the Old Hailey is Giltspur-street, in which once stood the Giltspur-street Compter, pulled down some years since. It leads to Smith- field , facing which, on the right, is the noble charity called ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL. — This hos¬ pital was originally instituted by the pious JRahere, about the year 1102, as part of the neighbouring priory of St. Bartholomew, of which he, likewise, was the benevolent founder. On the dissolution of religious houses, all its possessions fell to the Crown ; but Henry VIII., in his last year, granted it a charter of incorpora¬ tion, and gave it to the City. This event is recorded in stained glass in one of the windows in the hall, where the king is represented delivering his charter to the Lord Mayor, and standing near him are Prince Edward and two noblemen with white rods. In this apartment are also full-lengths of Ilenry VIII. and Dr. Katcliife; a portrait of Surgeon Pott, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and a fine picture of St. Bartholomew. The great staircase was painted gratuitously by Hogarth, who in return was made a governor for life. The principal sub¬ jects are, “The Angel at the Pool of Bethesda;” and “ The Good Samaritan.” The later buildings, which form an extensive and handsome quadrangle, of stone, connected by gateways, were erected about 1730; near the north-east angle an additional building forms a laboratory. All persons maimed by accident are received into this hospital, without recommendation, at any hour during the day or night. More than 150,000 persons are 96 OLD SMITHFIELD. annually relieved from this institution, either as in¬ patients or out-patients. It contains accommodation for more than 700 patients, and has undergone a com¬ plete repair during the last few years. In a niche over the arch of the principal entrance gateway, in Smith- field, which was rebuilt in 1702, is a full-length statue of Henry VIII. Rahere’s establishment of this hospital was principally for “ brethren and sisters, sick persons, and pregnant women.” The estates he settled upon it were valued at 305/. In the year 1334 the priory received a gift from Henry le Hayward and Roger de Creton of 106 acres of arable land, and 4 of meadow, in Islington and Kentish Town, valued at 21s. 6d. per annum, to pray for the soul of John de Kentyshton : hence the name Kentish-town. Since which, various donations have contributed, with the greatly increased value of the land, to form the splendid revenues at present enjoyed by this Royal Hospital. OLD SMITHFIELD was used for a cattle-market for more than three hundred years, but since the esta¬ blishment of the Metropolitan Cattle-market in the Caledonian-road, Islington, it has been used only for the sale of hay and straw on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur¬ days. A portion of the old Market has been devoted to two fine buildings, now established as the Metropolitan Dead Meat Market and the Poultry Market. The space was upwards of five acres in extent. Smithfield (or Smooth- field, as it was originally called) has been famous at different times as a place for jousts or tournaments, exe¬ cutions, burning of heretics, and that most uproarious of fairs, familiarly known as “Bartlemy.” At the Elmes, near here, were executed the royal favourite Mortimer and William Wallace; and here Walworth, the Lord Mayor, slew Wat Tyler. {See page 12.) Returning through Giltspur-street we ascend to the Holhorn Viaduct, having on our right the CHURCH OF ST. SEPULCHRE, the bell of which is tolled at the execution of a criminal at Newgate. In the wall of the churchyard, at the south-east corner, is the first public drinking-fountain erected in London. It bears an inscription, notifying the fact that it was presented by Samuel Gurney, M.P. Of this church Pennant says, “ the Church of St. Sepulchre, or the Holy Sepulchre, stands at a small distance from the site of the gate on the north side of Snow-hill.” At this church a nosegay was at one time presented to every £ -rj rtsjTTo] ■jE rnimi .... [ii ic I J , -i. P =jl Newgate Prison Westminster Bridewell 2. Pentoimlle Prison 5. Whitecioss Street Prison. Holloway Prison 3, Millbank Prison 6. Horsemonger I.ane Gaol. ST. SEPULCHKE’s—HOLBOEN HILL. 97 criminal on his way to execution at Tyburn. One of the last was presented from the steps of the church to Sixteen-Stringed Jack in 1774. Adjoining this church once stood the famous Saracen’s Head, a tavern formerly much frequented by stage-coach travellers, and the scene of some of the incidents in Mr. Dickens’s novel of “Nicholas Niekleby.” At the end of the Viaduct is a bronze equestrian statue of Prince Albert, the work of Mr. Bacon. It was uncovered by the Prince of Wales in January, 1874. HOLHORN-HILL.-—Holborn is a corruption of “ ohl bourne,” or old brook ; for here once flowed an open stream into the filthy drain of Fleet-ditch. The Fleet Ditch ran through the valley between the two hills now known as Snow-hill and Holborn-hill, through what is now Farringdon-street, to the river. This celebrated ditch was primarily supplied, we learn, “by the waters of certain wells in the suburbs, called Clerken-well, Skinner’s-well, Frog’s-well, Tode-well, Loder’s-well, and llad-well, forming a stream called the ‘ River of Wells,’ or Turnmill-brook.” The River of Wells ran down Turnmill-street and Hockley-in-the-IIole into Holborn, where it was fed by a brook called “Old-bournes,” and so on by the thoroughfare since called Farringdon-street, where it received the waters of a rapid little streamlet, called “ The Fleet,” and made its way to the Thames. As the population increased about Clerkenwell and Holborn, the waters of the wells were diverted from their former channel, and the ditch became a kind of stagnant creek, the receptacle for every kind of “ filth and garbage.” As Swift describes it— Sweeping from butchers’stalls, dung, guts, and blood, Drowned puppies, stinking sprats, all drenched in mud, Dead cats and turnip-tops, come tumbling down the flood. At last the nuisance became so great that the ditch was confined within walls and arched over in 1765, and the foul stream, which, however, was much less foul in consequence of the removal of nuisances, flowed under¬ ground to the Thames. The Fleet afterwards thus became part of the system of sewage,—in fact a main sewer diverted from its original course by the works of the Underground Railway: and since included in the great Metropolitan Sewage System, the -whole neigh¬ bourhood having been altered by the Viaduct which crosses the Holborn Valley. H 9S HOLBOEX HILL—HIGH HOLBOBX. Just at the Holborn end of the Tiaduet is St. Andrew's- street and Shoe-lane, in which, in 1749, Samuel Boyce, the poet, perished with hunger, and in the old churchyard of the workhouse, now used as a printing-office, Chatterton, the wondrous boy-poet, was buried, after committing suicide in Brook-street, on the opposite side of Holborn. Richard Savage was born in the same street. In Shoe- lane stood Bangor H mse, formerly the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, afterwards a workhouse, and now a printing- office. TheCTt/rcA of St. Andrew’s stands at the corner of St. Andrew’s-street, leading to Fleet-street. It was erected on the site of the old church, by Wren, in 16S6. The famous Sacheverell was rector of St. An¬ drew's, and was buried there in 1724. On the opposite side was the site of the town-house or “hostell” of the bishops of Ely. Here Sir Christopher Hatton died. The last “mysterie” performed in London was “Christ's Passion.” represented in “Elie House in Holbome,” on a Good Friday in the reign of -James I. The street farther west, on the same side, is Hatton-garden, so called after Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor in the reign of “ good Queen Bess.” The continuation of the main road is called generally Holborn and High Holborn. Near here once lay the foul neighbourhood of Saffron-hill and Field-lane, the abode of thieves and vagrants. The Field- lane Refuse for the Houseless and Destitute is close by. Some of the courts and alleys about Leather-lane and Gray’s-inn-lane are stiU among the lowest haunts in London, h ote the statue of the late Prince Albert at this end of the Viaduct. In HIGH HOLBORb are Gray’s-inn and Furni- r aT s-inn; andthe Turnstiles, to the left,beyond Chancery- lane, lead to Lmcoln s-inn. Furnicars-inn consists of a set of chambers, once belonging to Lincoln’s, bo part of the old inn described by Stow remains, it was taken down in the time of Charles I„ the whole having been reconstructed by Peto in 1818. Gray's inn is one of the regular “ inns of court,” ■with two inns of Chanceiy— Stapjes’-inn and Barnard" s-inn, both lying more to the east in Holborn, attached to it. It was formerly the seat of the Grays of Wilton, and now con¬ sists of two fine squares, one with a garden and trees, a Gothic hall, a chapel, and numerous well-built houses. The property extends from behind the houses in Holborn to King’s-road and Bedford-rovc. The great Lord Bacon was a student of Gray’s-inn, as also were 99 HIGH HOLBOBN—LINCOLN’S INN. Gascoigne and Robert Southey, the poets. Gray's-inn- gate, in which Jacob Tonson had his bookseller’s shop, and whence he issued many of the works of Addison, leads to the Inn. Gray’s-inn-lane leads, by its con¬ tinuation, Gray’s-inn-road, to ICing’s-cross. Hampden and Pym lived in Gray’s-inn-lane, which is no^i principally occupied, at the Holborn end, by old book shops, furniture dealers, and marine-store sellers. In Hatton-garden is the City Orthopaedic Hospital, for the cure of all kinds of bodily deformities, free to poor patients without letter of recommendation, and sup¬ ported by voluntary contributions. In proceeding westward, Fetter-lane on the left, and Leather-lane on the right, lead respectively to Fleet- street and the Clerkenwell House of Correction. Opposite Brook-street stood Holborn Bars, which were removed some time since, but the place is still distinguished by granite pillars bearing the arms of the corporation in token of the city authority ending at that spot. A little west on the left is Chancery- lane, leading into Fleet-street. Here is the Law Institution with its line library, and on its west side is a wide archway leading to the Courts of Chancery and other offices in Lincoln s-inn-square, Carey- street, Oursitor-street, and other tributary passages chiefly occupied by solicitors, law-stationers, and other limbs of the law. In Portugal-street is the entrance to King’s College Hospital. Opposite Chancery-lane is The Duke’s Theatre, a very commodious building. LINCOLN’S-INN may be entered by way of Chancery- lane, Great Queen-street, or Great and Little Turnstiles. The societies of the Inns of Court consist of benchers, barristers, members, and students. The government is vested in the benchers, who are self-elected, and have power to admit students to the Bar (that is, to enable them to plead and manage causesHi the courts of law) or to reject them at will and. without* ppeal. Students used to eat their way to the Bar, but of late years an examina¬ tion has been adopted, or, at any rate, attendance at a certain number of lectures, is necessary before a student can be converted into a barrister. Each inn has a dining- hall, chapel, and library, and keeping commons is not now compulsory. Lincoln’ s-inn, with its extensive squares and gardens, was so named from Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who built a stately mansion here for his town residence in the time of Edward I. The present buildings are irregular h 2 100 LINCOLN’S-INN-FIELDS—COLLEGE OF STJBGEONS. and principally of brick. The hall, chapel, and library are noble apartments. The hall contains a large painting by Hogarth, of St. Paul before Agrippa and Festus. Convenient courts for the chancellor, vice-chancellors and lords-justices are within the walls, the chief entrance to which, as before mentioned, is in Chancery-lane. New Hall was built by Hardwicke, in the Tudor style, in 1845, and opened by the Queen in person. The library contains many curious MSS., and particularly those of the great Sir Matthew Hale, who devised them to the Society, on the singular condition that they should never be printed. The garden, pleasantly laid out, has a lofty gravelled terrace, commanding a view of Lincoln's-inn- fields, one of the largest squares in London, with a fine garden in the centre. In 1683, Lord 'William Russell was beheaded in Lincoln’s-inn-fields,forhis supposed par¬ ticipation in the Rye-house Plot. Many eminent men —Lord Erskine, Lord Kenyon, Lord Somers, Spencer Perceval, Lord Mansfield, Thurloe, Cromwell’s secretary; Sir Thomas More, and Oliver Cromwell himself, have been inhabitants of Lincoln’s-inn-fields and square. Drs. Donne, Usher, and Tillotson, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, have been preachers in the chapel, in the crypt of which lie buried Prynne the Puritan, and Brome, the cavalier song-writer. On the south side of Lincoln’s-inn-fields is the COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, which fine edifice was erected in 1835, from the design of Charles Barry, Esq., It.A. In the year 1800, the Royal College of Surgeons was founded by John Hunter, and incorporated by charter March 22nd, 1800. In early times the Barber- Surgeons’ Company represented both Barbers and Sur¬ geons, and till 1800 a theatre of Anatomy and Surgery was used at Barber-Surgeons’ Hall, Monkwell-street. The interior of the College is extremely well adapted to its uses, and the spacious Museum, which is of an oblong form, with galleries, contains the finest collection of anatomical preparations ever formed. It includes the entire collection of the great John Hunter, which, after his decease, was purchased by Government at the public expense, and pre¬ sented to the College, with the view that a course of lectures on comparative anatomy and other subjects, illustrated by the preparations, should be annually delivered by its members. Besides the Hunterian collection, this Museum contains many valuable contri- SOANE MUSEUM—BRITISH MUSEUM. 101 butions, made by Sir Joseph Banks, Sir William Blizard, Sir Everard Home, and other eminent persons. The ob¬ jects in natural history, surgery, and anatomy are extremely interesting to those who can regard them with scientific appreciation. Application to view the Museum must be made to the curators; and admis¬ sions can be obtained of any member. The days of admission are Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from 10 to 4, except during the month of September. Medical students here pass their examina¬ tion in surgery. At the back of the present building was the Duke’s Theatre, in which was first performed Gay’s Beggar’s Opera. The College contains several fine works of Art, and a good professional Library. On the opposite side of Lincoln’s-inn-Fields (No. 13) is located the collection of curiosities known as the SOANE MUSEUM.—Admission may be obtained by personal application on Thursdays and Fridays, during the months of April, May, and June; and on Wednesdays from February to the end of August. The Museum was founded by Sir John Soane, architect to the Bank, who lived and died in this house, and bequeathed his tine collection of works of art and vertu to the country. The collection is distributed over twenty-four rooms, every corner being turned to account. Some of the pictures —especially Hogarth’s twofold series of the “ Bake’s Progress” and the “Election”—are valuable. The Egyptian, Indian, and other curiosities, are exceedingly interesting. Beturning again to Holborn, and continuing our walk to the corner of Museum-street, in High Holborn, we turn by Mudie’s Library, and presently find ourselves in Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury, standing before the gilded gates of THE BRITISH MUSEUM, which is open to the public on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from ten till dusk, and Saturday from twelve till dusk, with per¬ mission to view the New Reading Room and Library, which are opened to readers by tickets easily procurable. This imposing building contains a matchless collection of antiquities, Greek, Roman, Scandinavian, and British. The Nineveh Marbles, classic vases, and bronzes, a fine eth¬ nological collection, an unequalled library, an admirable collection of prints, and a unique cabinet of coins, &c. It is impossible in our restricted space to furnish a complete list of the very numerous purchases and dona- 102 BEITISH MUSEUM. tions by the aid of which the British Museum has risen to its present grandeur. In 1753 the Government ac¬ cepted the offer contained in the will of Sir Hans Sloane, and purchased his unrivalled collection for 20,000^., or 30,000^. less than it was said to have cost him. To this was added the Harleian MSS. and the Cottonian Library. These were placed in Montague House, Bloomsbury, which was purchased for the purpose. The present building was commenced in 1823 from the designs of Sir It. Smirke, and entirely completed in 1850. In 1772, Par¬ liament purchased Sir William Hamilton’s collection of Itoman vases and curiosities. The Egyptian antiquities were obtained in 1801. The Townley Marbles were added in 1805, two years after which was opened the Gallery of Antiquities. Colonel Greville’s minerals were purchased in 1812; the Elgin and Phigalian Marbles came in imme¬ diately on the peace of 1815 ; Br. Burney’s Library was purchased in 1818, for a sum of 13,500f.; Sir Joseph Banks’ library and herbarium were bequeathed in 1820; and in 1823, King George IV. presented the splendid and well-selected library of his father, George III., comprising upwards of 70,000 volumes, now deposited in a fine suite of rooms in the lower story of the east wing of the new building. Since then the additions to them and to the various departments have been numerous and valuable. Crossing the spacious and noble court-yard, the visitor gains admission by the principal entrance. The entrance- hall is of the Doric order, 62 feet by 51 feet, and 30 feet high. The ceiling is trabcated (cross-beamed), deeply coffered, and enriched with Greek frets and other orna¬ ments painted in encaustic, in various colours. The floor is laid with large squares of Portland stone, and small grey marble diamonds at their angles. At the western extremity of the hall is the principal staircase, at the top of which commence the suite of rooms appropriated to natural history, the arrangements of which are nearly complete. These galleries occupy, on the upper floor, the eastern portion of the south front, and the whole of the eastern and northern sides of the quadrangle, and are thus divided into five distinct parts, all of which are open to the public:— 1. The Botanical Museum, 2. The Mammalia Gallery, 3. The Eastern Zoological Gallery, 4. The Northern Zoological Gallery. 6. The Northern or Mineral Gallery. BRITISH MUSEUM—UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. 103 The entrance to the Sculpture Gallery is by a doorway to the left of the principal entrance. The Sculpture Gallery occupies the western aud south-western portion of the quadrangle on the ground floor, and is thus arranged:— 1. The Townley Gallery, 2. The Lycian Room, 3. The GrandXentral Saloon, 4. The Phigalian Saloon, 5. The Elgin Saloon, | Ascending a spacious flight of stairs at the north¬ west angle you arrive at the Western Gallery, in which the smaller Egyptian, Greek, and ltoman antiquities are arranged as follows :— C. The Egyptian Saloon, 7. The Ante-Room. In the basement are exhibited the Nineveh Marbles. 1. The Vestibule, 2. The Egyptian Room, 3. The Bronze Room, l. The Etruscan Room, 5. The Ethnographical Room. A book of the contents of the Museum may be pur¬ chased in the hall for Is.; but several cheap guides and catalogues are also published. A continuation of Great llussell-street, westward, brings us to TOTTENHAM-COURT-ROAD, which is the leading thoroughfare to Camden Town , Kentish Town , Hamp¬ stead, Highgate, and the great northern suburbs. There is little to note in Tottenham-court-road:—except that it contains the chapel, built in 1756, for George Whitfield, one of the founders of the “sect called Methodists,’’ and that the brewery of the late Sir Henry Meux is at the Oxford-street corner. Most of the streets on the left hand side lead towards Fitzroy and Cavendish squares, while those on the right will bring you into the neigh¬ bourhood of UNIVERSITY COLLEGE.—This college was founded by Lord Brougham and other well-known reformers, in 1825, on a very liberal basis. This, with King’s College, and several educational establishments belonging to the Nonconformists, forms what is known as the London University. The new building for the Council and Examination Hall of the London University is at Burlington House, aud was opened by the Queen in May, 1870. University College consists of a noble quadrangle, with a fine portico opening to the hall. Here may be seen daily, from 10 to 4, Flaxman’s casts, and other works of interest. The College Hall, built by 10-1 TOTTENHAM-COURT-ROAD—OXFORD-STREET.. Donaldson, in the Elizabethan style, has a front towards Gordon-square, while the school is in the rear. Opposite the College is University College Hospital, founded in 1833, as a school of medicine and general hospital for the sick. Near at hand is a line Gothic building, known as the Catholic and Apostolic Church. In Tottenham-court-road is laid the scene of Hogarth’s “ March to Finchley;” and in the gardens once bt longing to the manor-house, and subsequently to the Adam and Eve tavern, on the site of which Eden-place, Hampstead- road, was afterwards built, Lunardi made his famous parachute descent, May 16, 1785. The street market in Tottenham-court-road on a Saturday night is a very curious and instructive sight Near the junction of the Tottenham-court-road with the Euston, Hampstead, and Marylebone-roads, is the great drapery establishment of Messrs. Shoolbred, one of the largest and best in the metropolis. Tottenham-court-road may be called the western emporium for furniture, drapery, boots, and other articles of personal and household utility, lie¬ tracing our steps to OXFORD-STREET.—On the left, is Soho-square, a quaint portion of London, while farther on, and on the same siae of the way, is the building once used as a bazaar, and called the Pantheon, but now occupied by Messrs. Gilbey, wine merchants. Nearly opposite is the Princess’s Theatre, built in 1841, on the site of the Queen’s Bazaar. It was here that the late Mr. Charles Kean revived the plays of Shakspeare and other great dramas with magnificent scenery, dresses, and appoint¬ ments. In Dean-street, close by, is the pretty little theatre known as the Royalty. At the junction of Oxford-street and Regent-street is the Regent's-circus North, a place of great resort, and from which omnibuses start for nearly all parts of Lon¬ don . This open space, generally known as Oxford-circus, contains many fine shops. Conspicuous among these are the establishments devoted to silk mercery, drapery, millinery, and all things relating to feminine attire of the latest fashion; so that this space and along the length of Regent-street is a resort for youth and beauty during the hours of the afternoon, especially in “the season and carriages are continually in waiting before REGENT-CIRCUS NORTH—CAVENDISH SQUARE. 105 the doors of the leading shops where attendant footmen sun their calves upon the pavement, or retire to the shade of the ample awnings. Near the Circus is the London Crystal Palace, a spacious bazaar for the sale of toys, musical instruments, jewellery, &c.; and close behind Ox¬ ford-street, with two openings into Regent-street, is Hanover-square, built in 1720, and famous for its tine concert and ball-room — Hanover-square Rooms. They were built by Gallini, and are now converted into a Club. No. 11, in the square, is the museum of the Zoological Society; No. 12, the Royal Agricultural Society; and No. 13, the Earl of Harewood’s mansion; while at the north-west corner stand the Arts and the Oriental Clubs; neaily opposite to this latter building, in Tenterden-street, is the Royal Academy of Music, founded in the year 1822. In the square is a bronze statue of Pitt, by Chantrey; and in George-strect, within a few steps of the square itself, is the most fashionable church in the metropolis for weddings. To be married at St. George’s, Hanover-square, by a bishop, with three clergymen “assisting,” a lord to give her away, and a dozen of elegantly dressed bridesmaids, is the height of a London belle’s ambition; in George-street the cele¬ brated Lady Mary Wortley Montagu passed the last moments of her long life. Before quitting this neigh¬ bourhood, we may mention that the renowned circum¬ navigator of the globe, George, Lord Anson, lived at one time in Hanover-square ; moreover, that great admiral, Lord Rodney, breathed his last there in 1792. On the right of Oxford-street through Ilolles-street (the birthplace of Lord Byron), is Cavendisli-square, in which are two or three princely mansions; among them, that of the Duke of Portland ; and at the corner of Harley-street is a house which for¬ merly belonged to the Princess Amelia, a daughter of George II. The equestrian statue in the centre of the square is that of William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden ; bearing the following inscription :— William Duke of Cumberland, born April 15, 1721—died October 31, 17G5. This equestrian statue was erected by Lieutenant-General William Strode, in gratitude for his private friendship, in honour to his public virtue, Nov. the 4th, Anno Domini 1770. It is of this statue that Reynolds speaks, when he 106 POET1IAN SQUAEE—MABBLE AECH. warns modern artists from attempting: modern costume in sculpture—a warning not much heeded by his suc¬ cessors, as may be seen by most of the public monuments recently erected. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu lived in Cavendish -square, which was laid out in 1717 ; butin con¬ sequence of the bursting of the South Sea Bubble, in which Harley, second Earl of Oxford, was engaged, the square was not completed for several years. On this side of Oxford-street, also, lies Portman-square, a little further west. It was begun in 1764, but was twenty years in progress. It stands on the site of Little Gibbet Field, Tyburn, which inte¬ resting neighbourhood we now approach. Tyburn-lane, is now called Park-lane, and runs be¬ tween Oxford-street and Piccadilly. It is full of fine houses with gardens which overlook Hyde-park. Oxford- street was formerly called Tyburn-road, and the gallows is supposed to have stood where Connaught-place is now built, near the junction of Oxford-street with the Edge- ware-road and the Uxbridge-road, and therefore near the corner of what is now the entrance to Hyde-park, called THE MARBLE ARCH, or Cumberland Gate. This arch w r as erected by George IV., and cost 90,000/. It formerly stood in front of Buckingham Palace, but was removed a few years since, on the enlargement of the palace, to its present site, where it forms an appropriate ornament to this great approach to London. We now enter HYDE-PARK, one of the “ lungs of London,” which serves to connect the Green-park with Kensington-gar- dens ; and if you look at the map you will discover that there is one grand line of fields and park from the Horse Guards to Kensington. Lysons tells us that “ adjoining to Knightsbridge were two ancient manors, Neyte and Hyde, both belonging to the Church of Westminster till the reign of Henry VIII., when they became the pro¬ perty of the Crown, having been given, together with the advowson of Chelsea, in exchange for the Priory of Hurley, in Berkshire. The site of the Manor of Hyde constitutes, no doubt, Hyde-park, which having Knightsbridge on the south, lies between the two roads that lead, to Hounslow and Uxbridge.” The park covers a space of about 400 acres, and is separated from Kensington-gardens by a low wall and the Serpentine river, a piece of water of about fifty acres, formed in HIDE PAKK. 107 1733, by Caroline, queen to George II. It was formerly a lake made by throwing several ponds into one, and directing into it a small stream which afterwards became the Bayswater Sewer. When this foul feeder was cut off, in 1834, the lake was fed by the water-works of the Chel¬ sea Company. The Serpentine has been lately very con¬ siderably improved, the bottom having been levelled, so as to secure a regular graduation of depth. Early in the morning in the summer months it is much fre¬ quented by bathers, upwards of 12,000 of whom have been known to indulge in the luxury of a bath in one day; and in the winter months the Serpentine is the favourite resort of the lovers of skating, for whose safety the .Royal Humane Society have erected a receiving- house, which is well supplied with everything Deeessary to the resuscitation and comfort of those who may be suddenly immersed. This valuable society has been in¬ strumental in saving thousands of lives. Opposite the Piccadilly entrance, observe the grand statue of Achilles, inscribed “by the women of England to Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave compa¬ nions in arms.” It was cast by Westmacott, from ord¬ nance taken from the enemy during the Peninsular war, and the cost of its erection was entirely defrayed by subscriptions raised by the gentler sex, which amounted, it is said, to 10,000f. The park presents a fine appearance on the occasion of a review. In the Ring and Rotten- row are to be seen, in the season, all the fashion of London out for exercise—a sight unequalled in Europe, or, perhaps, in the world. In June last year 30,000 Volunteers were reviewed there by the Prince of Wales. Thousands make holiday here in the summer. In the works of Pope, Arbuthnot, and their school, numerous references will be found made to Hyde-park. It has been successively used as a race-course, a duelling-field, a private park, a place of resort for the fashionable ; and, better than all, a place of meeting for all nations in the Great Exhibition of 1S51. 108 WHITEHALL TO VAUXHALL. Whitehall—The Admiralty and House-Guards— St. James’s Park—The Government Oefices— Westminster Abbey—Westminster Hall—The Sanctuary — Victoria Street — Westminster School — Millbank Penitentiary — Vauxhall Bridge, &c. “ This city now doth, like a garment, wear The beauty of the morning; silent, fair, Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie Open unto the fields and to the sky.” Wordsworth. From Charing-cross to Vauxhall, with the two miles of road thus indicated, are to be seen most of the Govern¬ ment offices, and the noble old Hall and Abbey of Westminster. Someday the houses that obstruct the view from end to end will be removed, and a street of palaces will be open to the wondering gaze of the stranger. Start¬ ing from the statue of Charles I. we have on our left WHITEHALL.—The old palace of Whitehall, the palace of the kings of England from Henry VIII. to William III., occupied a considerable space, extending from Scotland-yard along the banks of the Thames to Canon-Row, Westminster; but in the reign of the latter monarch the entire building was burnt down except the Banqueting-house. This fine old hall was commenced in 1619, from designs of Inigo Jones ; but it formed only a small part of the vast plan of a royal palace intended to have been erected there, yet never proceeded with, in consequence of the civil wars. The ceiling of the prin¬ cipal room, now the Chapel, was painted by Rubens, who had 3000/. for his work, which, about 100 years since, was retouched by Cipriani, at an expense of 2000/. It represents the Apotheosis of James I. in nine compart¬ ments, and is principally indicative of that monarch’s love of peace and detestation of war. Little did James suppose he was erecting a pile from which his son Charles was to step from the throne to the scaffold! This ill- fated king slept here, in a small room, preceding the night of his decapitation ; and passed through one of the windows (since blocked up) to the scaffold, which was erected before it, in what is now the public street, but which was then an inclosed court. The fine brass statue ADMIRALTY AND HORSE-GUARDS. 109 of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, which stands be¬ hind the Banqueting-house, has been frequently, but most erroneously, described, as pointing to the spot where his father was beheaded. The figure is not pointing, though the right arm is partly extended ; the attitude is that of deep attention or contemplation. Some years ago a large gallery was erected here, in the Chapel Royal, for the accommodation of the Foot Guards during Divine service. Over the altar are the various Eagles gloriously won from the French, in different battles in the Peninsula, and on the sanguinary field of Waterloo. George I. granted a yearly salary of 30 1. to twelve clergymen (six from each University), who officiate a month each, in due succession. Here, too, on every Maunday Thursday, is distributed the Queen’s bounty to poor and aged women. Opposite Whitehall are THE ADMIRALTY AND THE HORSE-GUARDS.— The Admiralty is not a handsome building. It was erected from designs by Ripley, in the reign of the first George. It consists of a courtyard separated from the road by a screen and gateway ; and behind are the several departments for the Royal Commissioners of the Ad miral ty, a portion of the business of which office is conducted at Somerset House. The Horse-Guards, in front of which two soldiers on horseback are on guard, form the head-quarters of the Commander-in-Chief, and the military departments of which he is the head. Within the quadrangle the detachment of household troops quartered here muster every morning and afternoon. The building was erected by Vardy, from a design by Kent. The War-office, part of the business of which is conducted here, is maintained at a yearly cost of about 30,000f. The archway beneath the Horseguards—through which only the royal family and persons having especial permis¬ sion, are allowed to pass on horseback or in vehicles— forms the principal entrance for pedestrians to ST. JAMES’S PARK.—This handsome, though small park, was partly a marsh, when Henry VIII. had it enclosed ana laid out in walks. Charles II. enlarged and greatly improved it, under the direction of Le Notre. The ornamental water was then formed, the rows of lime-trees planted, and the “ Mall” laid out. This noble vista, which was at first a smooth hollow walk, half-a- mile in length, had an iron hoop at the further end, for the purpose of playing a game with a ball, called 110 st. james’s park—the mall. Mall; and hence its name. Succeeding kings allowed the people the privilege of walking here ; and the passage from Spring-gardens was opened in 1699, by William III. The canal is 2800 feet long, and 100 broad, crossed by an ornamental suspension bridge. On the celebration of the grand fete in 1814, the Pagoda Bridge was raised over the ornamental water. When the fete commenced on the first of August, the five upper stories of the Pagoda Tower were destroyed by lire. On that night, the different walks about the park were illuminated by large paper lanthorns, (hung from tree to tree,) painted with every variety of subject; and large booths were set up for the refreshment of the company, on each side of the canal. In the Green-park was erected a Temple of Concord , which was brilliantly illuminated, and ornamented with large allegorical paintings. This temple was so constructed, as to revolve on cylindrical rollers ; and it was once turned round in the course of the night. Immense flights of rockets and other fire¬ works, with discharges of maroons and artillery, were here exhibited, for the amusement of the great numbers who had assembled on this occasion ; although a great portion of the crowd was drawn into Hyde-park, by the sham fight and other attractions on the Serpentine river. From the lawn, also, in front of the Queen's palace, Mr. Sadler, junr., ascended in a balloon, on the same evening, in the presence of the Queen and her court. A similar though simpler sort of pyrotechnic display took place in the parks on the celebration of peace at the conclusion of the Crimean war. Thanks to the Ornithological Society, the visitor may study natural history by observation of the habits of the various foreign water-birds in the orna¬ mental ■water; or botany, thanks, in this case, to the Commissioners of Woods and Forests, by the arrange¬ ment of labelling the trees and shrubs in the enclosure with their English and botanical names, and the countries of their nativity. From this park one of the best distant views of the fine old towers of Westminster Abbey may be obtained ; and glimpses of water, here and there, from amidst the trees render it altogether one of the most charming retreats in the metropolis. It is well provided with seats for the tired pedestrian, and it is open from early morn till sunset— Birdcage-walk remaining an open thoroughfare all night. Fronting the Horse-guards observe two pieces of ordnance—one a large howitzer or mortar, captured at the siege of Cadiz in 1810; and the st. james’s paek—geeen-paek. ill other a curious Turkish piece, taken at Alexandria in 1801. In the winter the ice on the water in the Enclosure is carefully preserved, and no one allowed to venture on it till it is quite capable of bearing, when it is crowded with sliders and skaters, among the latter of whom may be observed some ladies occasionally. In 1857 a chain suspension-bridge was thrown across the Ornamental Water, between Queen-square and St. James’s-street, for the convenience of foot passengers. Every morning some companies of the Guards parade the park with their band f laying, on their way to relieve guard at St. James’s Palace. n the Colour Court of the palace the band plays for half an hour daily at eleven. The Wellington Barracks occupy a large space on the south side of the Park oppo¬ site Birdcage-walk. They were erected in 1834. The Green-park is divided from St. James’s-park by a portion of the Mall and the road called Constitution-hill , where, on June 10, 1840, the lunatic potboy, Oxford, fired a pistol at the Queen. Next th a Horse-guards are the Home-office, the Offices of the Board of Trade, the Treasury, and Privy Council- office, which together occupy a very handsome range of buildings, in the Italian style, built by Sir Charles Barry, in 1847. The Whitehall front is new, but much of the main building is of various dates, altered, modified, and otherwise adapted to the requirements of the Govern¬ ment. The War and Exchequer offices in Downing-street were pulled down to make room for the extension of the Government offices southward, and the new buildings now occupy the whole of what was Fludyer-street and the ad¬ jacent neighbourhood. The business of the War-office is at present conducted in a house, or rather group of houses, in Pall Mall. The Board of Control was abolished with the old East India Company, and the business of the India Department is now carried on at the new India House, abutting on St. James’s-park. Many other offices connected with Government are situated in and about Whitehall; large sums being paid yearly as rent—a system advocated by some politicians as more econo¬ mical than the expenditure of large sums for land and buildings. We have now reached the open space facing West¬ minster Abbey. To the left is the new bridge, to the right the Sanctuary, and immediately before us St. Margaret's Church, the Houses of Parliament, and West¬ minster Hall. Let us briefly notice each of these. 112 WESTMINSTER BEIDGE—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. NEW WESTMINSTER-BRIDGE is the largest and finest structure of the kind in Europe. It was only fully opened on the 1st of July, in 1862. On that day, on which the Princess Alice was married, the last timber of the temporary bridge was knocked away, and the new bridge opened. The old bridge was built in 1739-50, from the design of the Swiss architect, Labeyle ; and the new one—graceful and massive—was begun in 1855 by Mr. Page, who ably carried out the idea of Mr., afterwards Sir C. Barry, R.A. It is 1160 feet long by 85 feet in width ; twenty-nine feet wider than London-bridge ; and cost altogether about half a million. A portion of the stone of the old bridge was used in the erection of the London and County Bank in Lombard-street. From this bridge to Blackfriars the embankment of the Thames is now completed. The houses facing Bridge-street, on the Mid¬ dlesex side, were pulled down to open the road to the HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or the New Palace of Westminster, as the building is sometimes called. The first stone of this noble Gothic edifice was laid on the 27th of April, 1840, and the building commenced also under the superintendence of Sir Charles Barry. The river- front includes the residence for the Speaker at the north end, the corresponding terminal towards the south being the residence for the Usher of the Black Rod. Between the two extremes, and comprising what is called the curtain portions, are the libraries for the House of Peers and the libraries for the House of Com¬ mons : in the immediate centre is the conference-room for the two Houses. All this is on the principal floor, about fifteen feet above the terrace, or high-water mark. The whole of the floor above the libraries, and overlooking the river, is appropriated to committee-rooms for the purposes of Parliament; the Peers occupying about one- third towards the south, and the Commons two-thirds towards the north. The House of Peers and House of Commons are situated in the rear of the front building, or that next the river ; and are enclosed also towards the west, so as to be entirely supported by Parliamen¬ tary offices. The plan of this truly national edifice is exceedingly simple and beautiful. The Central Hall, an octagon of seventy feet square, is reached through St. Stephen’s Hall and Porch, communicating, by noble flights of steps, with Westminster Hall, and forming an approach of unequalled magnificence. From the Central Hall, a corridor to the north leads to the eTbeT r Him 6 £ 1 i 1. The Treasury. 4. Somerset House. 7. Westminster Hall 2. The Tower. 5. The Mint. 8. Temple Bar. 3 The Admiralty. 6. Thames Tunnel Railway. 9. Houses of Parliament. HOUSES OF PABLIAMENT—WESTMINSTEE HALL. 113 Commons’ Lobby and House of Commons ; and a corridor to the south, to the Peers’ Lobby and the House of Peers ; still further to the south are Victoria Hall, the Royal Gallery, and the Queen’s Robing-room, communicating with the Royal Staircase, and the Victoria Tower, at the south-west corner of the pile now reared in Abingdon- street—her Majesty’s state entrance to this Palace. The construction throughout is externally of hard mag¬ nesian limestone, from Yorkshire. It is a beautiful, close- grained stone, of a texture considerably harder than Portland, and somewhat warmer in colour. The stone having shown signs of deterioration, several ingenious means for its arrest have been tried with varying success. The interior stone-work is from Caen. The bearers of the floor are of cast-iron, with brick arches turned from girder to girder; the entire roofs are of wrought-iron, covered with cast-iron plates galvanized ; so that the carcases of the entire buildings are fireproof, not any timber having been used in their construction. The whole building stands on a bed of concrete, twelve feet thick; and the materials used include hundreds of thousands of tons of stone, twenty-four millions of bricks, and several thousand tons of iron. The splendour of the interior defies description, and must be seen to be appreciated. The Palace at Westminster can be inspected on Satur¬ days by tickets, to be obtained on the same day at the office of the Lord Great Chamberlain, at the House of Lords, between ten and four o’clock. It is also open on other days during some weeks in the year. Closely adjoining, and, indeed, incorporated with the main design of the Houses of Parliament, is WESTMINSTER HALL.—This beautiful and vene¬ rable building was originally founded by William Rufus in 1097, but it was rebuilt in its present form by Richard II., who, in 1399, kept his Christmas here with great magnificence, the number of his guests amounting to 10,000 each day. Its dimensions are said to exceed those of any other apartment in Europe unsupported by pillars. Its length is 270 feet; its breadth, 74 feet; and its height about 90 feet. The roof, which principally consists of chestnut-wood, is very curiously constructed, and adorned with angels supporting shields, charged with the arms of Richard II. and his patron saint, Edward the Confessor; on the stone frieze below the windows are various sculptures of a hart couchant, and other devices of Richard II. 'j'he pavement has beea thrice raised, at I 114 WESTMINSTER HALL—LAW COURTS. different periods, in order to keep out the water, the hall having been frequently flooded at high tides by the waters of the Thames. This hall appears to have been designed for royal banquets and entertainments, and the corona¬ tion feasts have been held here for ages. Courts of justice were, however, held here in very early times, in which the sovereign himself was accustomed to preside ; and the ancient stone bench, whereon the monarch sat, is said to be yet in existence beneath the pavement in the upper end. Hence the Curia Domini Regis, or Court of King’s Bench, which is one of the four supreme courts now regularly held beneath this roof: the other courts being Chancery , Common Pleas, and Exchequer. These courts being much too small for the business transacted in them, the erection of a new and spacious building in the Strand has been determined on, as already stated. In cases of Parliamentary impeachment the spacious area of the hall itself is fitted up as a court, as it was for the trial of William Wallace, Sir Thomas More, the Protector Somerset, Thomas, Earl of Strafford, minister of Charles I., and also that of his equally ill-fated sovereign. Here, likewise, in modern times, were tried the celebrated Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy ; Warren Hastings, for misconduct in India; Lord Byron, Lord Ferrers, Lord Melville, in 1806, for misappropriation of the public money. The last coronation dinner held there was that of George IY. Whilst the ball was rebuilding in 1397, Richard II. had a temporary house erected of wood, in OldPalace-yard for the same purpose. It wasopen on all sides, that the people might see ana hear everything that passed ; yet that nothing might be done contrary to the royal pleasure, the king surrounded it with “four thousand Cheshire archers, having bows bent and arrows notched, ready to shoot.’’ Many improvements have been made at Westminster of late years, and among others a new Guildhall for that city has been built on the north side of the Abbey. It is an octangular edifice of brick, standing on a part of the ancient sanctuary. Opposite the north front of the Hall, in the Broad Sanctuary, is the parish Church of St. Margaret’s. —It was begun in the reign of Edward I., and repaired, altered, and beautified from time to time ; but it is sadly in the way of the view of the Hall and Abbey. Here many great and noble men have been buried, bee the tablets to Caxton, the printer, and Sir Walter Raleigh j Howard, admiral to the fleet in the Ar- st. maegaeet’s—Westminster abbey. 115 mada year, 1588; and the various members of the Egerton family. In this church the members of the House of Commons are supposed to attend at the beginning and ending of the Parliamentary session—a ceremony now-a- days not very closely observed. In the time of Charles I. the fast-day sermons were preached in St. Margaret’s before Pym, Harrison, Praise-God Barebones, Cromwell, and the rest of the members of the parliament; and here it was that Hugh Peters preached the sermon which advocated the trial of the unfortunate and misguided Charles Stuart. Opposite the Hall is WESTMINSTER ABBEY, open to the street on three sides, but much pressed upon by houses on the south. Westminster Abbey, once a Benedictine monastery, now the collegiate church of St. Peter, is situated on a spot originally surrounded by the waters of the Thames, and called Thorney Island, but now included under the general name of Westminster. It was founded somewhat previously to the year 616, by Sebert, king of the East Saxons ; and according to the monkish legends, it was miraculously consecrated by St. Peter himself, its patron saint. Edward the Confessor rebuilt and greatly enlarged the original church, but his build¬ ing was wholly taken down by Henry III., who, with his son, Edward I., erected all the eastern part of the present church to the first column in the nave beyond the entrance of the choir. The nave and its aisles were principally erected by different abbots in the succeeding reigns, down to Henry VII.’s time ; and the inferior western towers were the design of Sir Christopher Wren, and were com¬ pleted in the early part of the 18th century. This mag¬ nificent pile is built in the form of a Latin cross, in the pointed style of architecture, and to its eastern ex¬ tremity is attached the chapel of Henry VII., who founded it as a royal burying-plaee for himself and succeeding sovereigns and princes. The view of the interior from the west entrance is uncommonly grand; and many other points might be mentioned, where the various divisions and ornaments of the building range in very beautiful perspectives. The west window is enriched with full-length paintings on glass of Moses and Aaron, the Patriarchs, &c., and the large and elegant Rose- window, in the north transept, is embellished with similar paintings of Christ and the Apostles. The Mari¬ gold-window, in the south transept, was erected in 1814, 116 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. and is still more elaborate in its design than the one just mentioned, yet from being glazed with plain glass only, its appearance is far less impressive. The choir is wainscoted, and neatly fitted up with stalls, seats, &c., and a fine organ. The mosaic pave¬ ment before the altar-piece is a very interesting specimen of ancient art. The altar-piece itself was designed for the chapel of Whitehall by Inigo Jones, but Queen Anne presented it to the Dean and Chapter. In itselfitisa rich composition of classic architecture, but it does not assimilate with the solemn character of this building. Immediately behind the choir is the very interesting chapel of Edward the Confessor, in the midst of which stands the shrine in which the ashes of that superstitious, yet pious sovereign, lie entombed. Here, also, is a beautiful screen, on the frieze of which the principal events of the legendarv history of that king are sculptured in bold relief. Near it are the coronation chairs, iu the framework of the most ancient of which is the famous stone which Edward I. brought from Scotland, tia- ditionally said to have been the very pillow on which Jacob reposed, when he had his beatific vision in the Holy Land (!) Round the chapel are the tombs of Henry III. ; Edward I., and his faithful Queen Eleanor; Edward III., and Queen Philippa; Richard II., and Anne, his first queen ; and Henry V. The recumbent effigies of Henry III., Queen Eleanor, and Edward III., are particularly beautiful as works of art. A splendid monumental chapel, enriched by statues and other sculptures, surmounts the tomb of Henry Y. Nine or ten other chapels, dedicated to various saints, open to the ambulatory round the choir, and like the transepts and aisles are crowded with monuments of the illustrious dead. The south transept is generally called Poet's- corner, from being chiefly appropriated to the reception of the monuments and mortal relics of poets and men of letters. Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare, Camden, Ren Jonson, Milton, Sir William D’Avenant, Dryden, Butler, Gay, Thomson, Rowe, Gray, Addison, Handel, Garrick, ' Goldsmith, Sheridan, Campbell, Macaulay, and numerous other persons of distinguished genius, have memorials here. Here also repose the ashes of the great statesman Lord Palmerston, who died on the 18th of October, 1865. Notice the beautiful monument 1o John, Duke of Argyle. In the north transept and the aisles are the splendid monuments fif Lord Mans? WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND SCHOOL. 117 field, Lord Eobert Manners, the great Lord Chatham, Sir Charles Wager, Admiral Vernon, General Wolfe, and numerous others. Sir Isaac Newton, the great Earl Stanhope, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Captain Montague, Mr. Secretary Craggs; the Bishops Pearce, Thomas, Sprat, &c. ; Major Andre, Thomas Thynne, Esq., L>r. Burney, and a crowd of other eminent characters. Many of later date, have monuments in the aisles; and over the west entrance, on an elevated arch, is a stalue of the Eight Hon. William Pitt. Among the ancient monuments, the most remarkable are those of Aymer de Valence, and Edmund Crouchback, in the north aisle of the choir; and William de Valence, Sir Bernard Brocas, and John of Eltham, in Saint Edmund’s Chapel. The chapel of Saint Blaize, Cloisters, Chapter House, (formerly a Eecord Office), Chapel of the l‘ix, and other ancient parts of the Benedictine monastery connected with the Abbey Church, are all deserving of minute and atten ¬ tive inspection. In the old Chapter House is, or was till lately, kept the celebrated Domesday-book, com¬ piled in the time of William the Norman, still in fine preservation. Facing Victoria-street, a fine new wide street leading to Belgravia right through the heart of old Westminster, is the handsome Crimean Monument, erected to the memory of the Westminster scholars who fell in the Crimean war. In the south-west corner, in Dean’s-yard, is the celebrated WESTMINSTEE SCHOOL.—This well-known school was originally allocated to the monastery of Benedic¬ tines, which anciently formed the nucleus of the city of Westminster, and of which the Abbey church, and va¬ rious contiguous buildings, still remain, to testify to the extent and splendour of the establishment. The school is still within the Abbey precincts, but it derives its present foundation from Queen Elizabeth, who, in 15 G 0 , re-established the dean and chapter, and rendered the church collegiate. The Queen's Scholars, as they are called, are forty in number, but there are also forty King’s Scholars on the foundation; and many others, the sons of the nobility and gentry, are educated here for the universities, at the expense of their friends. Some of the most distinguished men the country has produced have been educated in this seminary. Exhibitions are enjoyed by the scholars on the foundation. The admirers 118 PENITENTIARY—VAUXHALL BRIDGE. of the ancient drama pay a visit annually to West¬ minster school, in the beginning of December, when the scholars perform one of Terence’s plays. After making the circuit of the Abbey, bestowing a glance at St. Margaret’s Church, and walking through its burial-ground—in which lie Caxton, the first English printer, who had his office in the Sanctuary; Sir Walter Raleigh, and some other persons of note—stopping for an instant before Westminster Hospital, at the north corner of the Abbey, in what is called the Broad Sanctuary, which was founded in 1715, and the present building, erected in 1834, from the designs of Mr. Inwood—we retrace our steps, and crossing Old Palace Yard, we pass the spot on which stood the old Houses of Lords and Commons from the time of Henry II. till their destruc¬ tion, on the 16th of October, 1834, and come again to the Houses of Parliament. Nearly opposite, in Tothill- street, is the large building opened in the beginning of last year as the Royal Westminster Aquarium and Winter Garden. Passing the Victoria Tower, beneath the noble arch of which the Queen enters the palace when she goes to open or adjourn the session, we skirt the river by Abingdon-street, and, in about a mile, reach the MILLBANK PENITENTIARY.—Admission to this prison may be obtained by order of the Home Secretary, or of the Government Inspector of prisons. It con¬ sists of six wings, built in the form of a star, with the governor’s house in the centre of the six rays, at the end of each of which are strong towers. This prison is almost equal in strength to a fortress, which in¬ deedit somewhat resembles. It was built in 1812, from the design of the celebrated Jeremy Bentham, and is said to have cost half a million of money. The ground was so low that the greater part of the structure is supported on piles ; but the excellent system of ventilation prevents it from being especially unhealthy. Some thousands of criminals pass through this prison every year as a pro¬ bationary confinement previous to their final destination or in penal servitude. A little further on is VAUXHALL BRIDGE—leading to the district known as Vauxhall, a collection of unimportant houses, in the midst of which stood the once celebrated Vauxhall Gardens. Vauxhall abounds in potteries and manu¬ factories. The Bridge was built after the designs of Mr. Walker between 1811 and 1816. It consists of nine cast- VAUXHALL—WEST-END. 119 iron arches, each 78 feet span. A church and school occupy part of the site of Yauxhall Gardens; and near at hand is Holy Trinity Church, one of three of that name in London, famous for its spire. At no great distance is the cele¬ brated Cricket-ground at Kennington Oral; and facing the river, on the opposite side, is Battersea Park, of which we shall have something to say when we take a trip on the river. A STROLL ABOUT THE WEST-END. Her Majesty’s Theatre—Pale Mall —Sr. James’s— Regent-street — Piccadilly—St. James’s Park — Brompton—Kensington Gardens and Palace. “ The Campus Martius of St. Jaraes’s-street, Where the beaus’ cavalry pace to and fro, Before they take the field in Rotten-row.” Sheridan. To take any one district of the West-end and exhaust it of pleasant gossip would require a volume of itself. To notice all the noticeable places between Charing- cross and Kensington would need five times the space occupied by this little Guide; and to tell of the historical, literary, and artistic matters which Leigh Hunt con¬ verted into such pleasant reading, and other writers have so crammed with facts and figures, would be quite beyond our scope. Enough if we give a few lines to each of the more prominent places and buildings in that wide area, which fashionable folk are apt, rather cynically, it must be owned, to style “ the world.” Passing from Charing-cross to Cockspur-street, we come in sight of the Bronze Statue of George III. on horseback, by M. Cotes Wyatt, erected in 1837. Observe the tail of the horse and the pigtail of the king ! O’Byrne, the Irish giant, died in this street in 1783. The British Coffee House, opposite, was once one of the best known hotels in London, and famous for the political meetings held there. In Suffolk-strcet is the Exhibition of the Society of British Artists. To the right, at the corner of the Hay market— in which are several first-rate jewellers’ and other shops—is HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE, until within a few years the sole temple of Italian opera in the metropolis. 120 IIAYMARKET AND PALL-MALL. The edifice, which was erected by M. Novosielski, on the site of the former theatre, built by Sir John Vanbrugh, and destroyed by fire in 1790, was seriously injured by fire in 1867. Opposite is the HAYMARKET THEATRE—erected on the site of the ‘‘little theatre in the Hayinarket,” from the designs of John Nash, Esq., and opened for dramatic performance July 4, 1821. Under the management of Mr. Buckstone the Haymarket Theatre has attained a high degree of success, and ranks as one of the most fashionable temples of the drama. Here Charles Mathews, Mr. Sothern, Miss Madge Robertson, and other great stars of the theatrical world, have made their appearances and deserved successes. Westward of the Haymarket, in a line from Cockspur- street, is PALL MALL—a street of palaces, principally the higher class of Club-houses. In Carlton Gardens, the opening towards St. James’s Park, is the Duke of York’s Column, erected by public subscription, in 1833, to the memory of the Queen’s uncle. It was designed by Wyatt, and the figure on the summit, which is four¬ teen feet high, was cast in bronze, from the design by West- macott. The view from the top is fine. Here also is the memorial to Sir John Franklin. In this place, we may as well give a list of the PRINCIPAL CLUBS. The Athenceum, 107, Pall Mall, built in 1839, on part of the site of old Carlton Palace, from the designs of Decimus Burton. Entrance fee, 30 guineas; 1200 members; yearly subscription, ’ll. 7s. At this and most other clubs the members have the privilege at any time of introducing a friend. United Service, 116, Pall Mall, opposite the Athenaeum, was erected in 1828, after designs by Mr. Nash. 1550 members ; entrance fee, 42 1. ; subscription, 7 1. 7s. The Reform Club, 104, Pall Mall, erected in 1839, from the design of Charles Barry. This is the completest building of the kind in London. Entrance fee, 30 guineas ; annual subscription, 10/.; 1400 members, exclusive of the honorary members. The Travellers’ , 196, Pall Mall, also erected by Barry, in 1832. Entrance fee, 30 guineas ; annual subscription, 10 1. 10s. Only gentlemen who have made the tour of Europe, or been in the Indies, are eligible as members. 750 members. 1. Conservative Club House Aibenxum Club House. 3. Carlton Club House. 4. United Service Club House. 5. Army and Navy Club House. ffllliililllBBlte PRINCIPAL CLUB HOUSES. 121 The Carlton, 94, Pall Mall, south side. This elegant building was erected in 1847, from the designs of Sydney Smirke. Entrance fee, 20 guineas; annual subscription, 10/. 10s. ; 950 members, exclusive of members of either House of Parliament. Army and Navy, Pall Mall, erected in 1849-51. The architects were Messrs. Parnell and Smith, and the build¬ ing is a good imitation of an Italian palace. Members, 2200 ; entrance fee, 40/.; subscription, 7/. 7s. Junior United Service, corner of Charles-street and Waterloo-place, was erected in 1828, bySir RobertSmirke. 2000 members ; entrance fee, 40/.; subscription, 71. 7s. The Union , Trafalgar-square, was erected under the superintendence of the same architect, in 1844. Entrance lee, 30 guineas ; subscription, 71. 7s.; 1000 members. The Conservative, St. James’s-street, on the site of the Thatched House Tavern, was erected in 1824, by Messrs. Sidney Smirke and George Basori. There are several other club-houses ; the entrance fee and subscription to some of which are lower. Among them may be men¬ tioned :— The Carlton, 94, Pall Mall; The Junior Athe- nceum, 116, Piccadilly; The Guards, 70, Pall Mall; Brooks’s, St. James’s-street; United University, Pall Mall East; Boodle's, 29, and White’s, 38, St. James’s-street; Arthur’s, 69, St. James’s-street; The Oriental, Hanover- square ; The Garrick, Garrick-street; Oxford and Cam¬ bridge, Pall Mall; The City United, Ludgate-circus ; St. Stephen’s, Westminster; Royal Thames Yacht Club, 7, Albemarle-street; East India United Service, St. James’s- squarc; Medical, Spring Gardens ; New City, George- yard, Lombard-street. In Pall Mall are many other line houses. No. 79, now the Eagle Insurance Company’s offices—though in some¬ what different style—the residence of Nell Gwynne. At the Waterloo-place end is the Guards’ Memorial, erected 1861 to the memory of the heroes belonging to the Guards who fell in the Crimea. It consists of a granite pedestal, surmounted by a bronzed figure of Victory, bearing wreaths of laurel, below which are three bronze figures of soldiers of the Guards. At the west end of Pall Mall is the Gallery of the Institution of Painters in Water Colours, and nearly opposite is Marlborough House, recently restored from Wren’s design of 1710, as a town residence for the Prince of Wales. The great duke, whose name it bears, died here. The Vernon collection of pictures and the Schools of Design, now removed 122 st. james’s palace. to South Kensington Museum, were first shown here. An opening into the Park divides Marlborough House from ST. JAMES’S PALACE.—This palace, with its dingy front facing towards St. James’s-street —another street of handsome houses and shops, where Lord Byron lived and Gibbon the historian died—where Blood, on the 6th of December, 1670, made his desperate attack on the Duke of Ormond, and in which Waller the poet was (in 1687) well enough off to pay rates as a householder, and to be described in the parish books as an esquire. St. James’s Palace is the only London residence of royalty with rooms large enough and convenient enough to hold drawing-rooms and levees. But though not a very liandsome-looking house, it was spacious and commodious enough for our kings and queens before the fourth George, I who transformed Buckingham House into a palace, without a really good room in it. St. James’s Palace was originally a hospital, founded, prior to the Norman invasion, “for fourteen sisters, maidens who were leprous.” In 1532 it was surrendered to Henry VIII., who purchased, also, “ all the meadows about St. James’s, and there made a mansion and a park for his greater accommodation and pleasure.” It is a very extensive but irregular pile, principally of brick, but with little if any remaining of the old palace except the gateway. The principal entrance is by a lofty gatehouse, opening into a small quadrangular court, having a piazza on the west side. The principal stair¬ case leads to the state apartments, which are on the park side ; they were fitted up on the marriage of the Prince of Wales with Caroline of Brunswick, in 1795 ; previously to which, they were rather meanly furnished. They consisted of a suite of fine rooms, hung with tapestry, originally made for Charles II.; and ornamented with a few paintings. In the Privy Chamber was a canopy, under which his majesty George III. was accustomed to receive addresses from the Society of Quakers. On the right of these apartments are two Draicing-rooins, the innermost of which contains the throne. The canopy of the throne is of crimson velvet, with broad gold lace, having em¬ broidered crowns, set with fine pearls; it was wrought after the union with Ireland ; and the shamrock, the badge, forms a part of the decorations. On the left of the Presence Chambers are two levee rooms. In the chief Drawing-room is a magnificent chandelier, of silver, gilt. The south-eastern wing of this edifice was destroyed by st. james’s palace—eegent-steeet. 123 fire in 1808. At tlie entrance of this palace, in August, 1786, an attempt was made on the life of his Majesty George III., by an insane woman, named Margaret Nicholson, who struck at him with a knife, which she had concealed behind a pretended petition ; but the blow was warded off by a page. In the Stable Yard are the resi¬ dences of various pensioned courtiers, and other persons of distinction, together with the houses of court officials. In St. James’s Palace died Caroline, Queen of George II., and here also was born that fine gentleman George 1 V. Many are the scandalous stories told of the intrigues once carried on within the palace precincts. In King-street , leading from St. James’s-square, is the St. James's Theatre, built in 1836, by the celebrated vocalist Braham, who nearly ruined himself by the speculation. It has been used for the performance of French plays and operas ; but of late it has had a regular English company. Here, too, are Willis’s Rooms —the locality of Almack’s. Crossing the Square to Waterloo-‘place, where will be found the Rail Mall Club, Messrs. Howell and James’, the Court milliners and jewellers, and several fine club¬ houses, we make our way to Regent's-circus with its hotels, booking-offices, &c., and so to REGENT-QUADRANT, which is one of the finest thoroughfares in London. It presents a continuous line of handsome shops, from its junction with Coventry - street and it merges in Regent-street. The removal of the pillars and covered way in Regent-quadrant some years since greatly altered the distinctive character of this beautiful avenue; but it has still a remarkably hand¬ some appearance. At Nos. 34 and 36 are Messrs. Chaplin and Horne’s Railway Booking offices. REGENT-STREET is the continuation of the wide thoroughfare from the Quadrant as far as Langhani-place, beyond which point, to the north, the road takes the name of Portland-place, which leads directly into the Margie- bone-road, within a few minutes walk of Regent's-park. The aspect of Regent-street about half-past four in the afternoon is one of the most striking sights in London. The pavement is then crowded with pedestrians, and the roadway filled with the carriages of the nobility and gentry. At the end of the Quadrant, on the east side, we reach Glasshouse-street, in which is the Maison Doree, a restaurant conducted like the first class estab¬ lishments of Paris. Regent-street is full of handsome shops, some of which are well worth visiting. Photo- 124 REGENT-STREET. grapliers, printsellers, and booksellers, jewellers, drapers, &c., vie with each other in external show and bravery. On the west side of Regent-street, are Scott, Adie’s, and Locke’s Scotch warehouses, as well as several other well-known establishments, including the Burlington Restaurant and Carlton and Club Chambers, occupied by many noblemen, clergymen, and gentlemen of distinc¬ tion. Regent-street was designed by Mr. Nash in 1813, and was intended as a communication between Carlton House and Regent’s-park. The architect’s idea of uniting nume¬ rous dwelling houses and shops into one grand and im¬ posing whole has been very successfully carried out; and though the plaster fronts of the houses have been severely criticized, there is no doubt that the street is exceedingly picturesque, from thecontinuity of design and noble proportions of the separate parts. The ground on which this spacious street was constructed was formerly occupied by a crooked line of dingy houses, stretching from the southern extremity of Portland-place—where the church of All Souls ', Langham-place, now stands— to Piccadilly. This line commenced with what was then called Bolsover-street, and reached to Oxford-street; on the south side of which it was continued through Swallow-street, a most ignoble thoroughfare for so im¬ portant a line of communication, until it debouched in Piccadilly. In Regent-street are two or three important public and private buildings. Among them are Hanover Chapel, designed by Cockerell, Archbishop Tenison’s Chapel, St. James’s Hall, a very handsome concert and assembly hall, where the performances of the Moore and Burgess Minstrels and various other entertainments are carried on. There is also a restaurant at the Regent-street entrance to the hall. Beyond the Circus is the Polytechnic Institution, a celebrated place of exhibition in the metropolis, famous for scientific effects, experiments with electricity and lightning conductors, and the wonders of the microscope; here popular lectures on scientific subjects by eminent professors are frequently delivered; All Souls’, Lang¬ ham-place, which handsome church, with its line spire, by Nash, forms a fitting termination of the view from the junction of Regent-street and Ox¬ ford-street. At this junction of Regent-street with Portland-place, stands the justly famous Langham PICCADILLY—BUELINGTON HOUSE. 125 Hotel, one of the most spacious establishments of the kind in London. A walk up one side of Regent-street and down the other, a distance of nearly two miles, will conduct the visitor to PICCADILLY.—This famous street derives its name, according to Blount, from pickardil, a kind of stiff collar, made in the form of a band, by the sale of which its founder, one Higgins, a tailor, derived a considerable fortune. In Piccadilly, between the corner of the Hay- market and the corner of Regent-street is the Criterion, a grand restaurant with a series of dining-rooms and a charming little theatre beneath them, while a large assembly-room occupies the upper storey. A little way up on the right-hand side is the Piccadilly entrance to St. James’s Hall, the principal doorway to which is in 'Regent-street. It was erected in 1857, from the design of Owen Jones. It is the most gorgeously decorated of our first-class concert rooms. Near at hand is St. James’s Church, built by Wren in 1684, at the cost and charges of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, in the yard of whieh lie buried Tom D’Urfey the facetious poet, Dodsley the bookseller, Vandervelde the painter, and Gillray the famous caricaturist. The Egyptian Hall, a popular place of exhibition for pictures, curiosities, entertainments, &c., was built in 1812 by Robinson, the architect, as a place of reception for Bullock’s antiquities, which, after amusing the town for some time, were sold by auction. Just oppo¬ site is the Burlington Arcade, a famous place of lounge or gossip in wet weather. It is filled with pretty shops, and leads directly to Cork-street and Burlington-gardens. Burlington House, in Piccadilly, is now the home of the Royal Academy, and the great rooms are admirably adapted for their exhibitions of pictures. It stands on the site of a former building of the same name, of which Lord Burlington used to boast (in 1650) that it was the most westerly in London! The title from which the house derives its name became extinct in 1835, and the house is now the property of the Government. The University of London occupies part of the building. Close by is the Albany, so called from having been exchanged by the first Lord Melbourne for Melbourne House, Whitehall, with the Duke of York and Albany. It consists of a series of superior club-chambers, famous now as having been the residence of many celebrated men, among whom were Jlyron and Tom Moore, Canning and Monk Lewis. The 126 riCCADILLT—BOND STREETS, ETC. names of tlie streets we pass indicate pretty plainly the names and history of their founders: The Clarendon Hotel in New Bond-street, once the most fashionable place in London, is so called from the great Lord Chan¬ cellor Clarendon, whose house stood at the top of St. James’s-street; Albemarle-street —famous now as the home of the Royal Institution, in the laboratory of which Sir Humphrey Daw made some of his most splendid dis¬ coveries—was called after the second Duke of Albemarle, Christopher Monk; Bond-street derived its name from Sir Thomas Bond, of Peckham, to whom Clarendon House was sold in 1657 by the Duke of Albemarle. Berkeley- street and St ration-street, the first of which leads to the aristocratic Berkeley-square, was so-called after John Berkeley, of Stratton, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland in the reign of Charles II.; No. 1, in Stratton-street, is the resi¬ dence of the Baroness Burdett Coutts, perhaps the richest, and certainly one of the most charitable of ladies in England. Jermyn-street is called after Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans—the little Jermyn of Grammont’s “ Memoirs Rover-street, after the Earl of Dover (died 1708); in which is Ashburnham House (No. 30); Clarges- street, after General Monk’s virago wife, Elan Clarges; Bennet-street and Arlington-street, after Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington. In 1708 Bolton-street was the most westerly street in London, so called after theDuke of that name. In Old Bond-street are two or three admirable exhibitions of paintings. In Jermyn-street is the Museum of Economic Geology, the admittance to which is gratuitous, every day except Friday, from 10 till 4; but is closed from August 10 to September 10. It is a handsome structure, having a double frontage, erected in 1848, from the de¬ sign of Mr. James Pennethorne. The Piccadilly fafade is distinguished by great boldness and originality of character in design, and possesses one singular feature— that there is no doorway in it, the entrance being in Jermyn-street. On the ground-floor is a hall, forty feet by sixty-six, formed into three divisions by Doric columns, for the exhibition of stones, marbles, the hea¬ vier geological specimens, and works of art of various kinds. Ascending from the hall by a staircase on each side of the entrance lobby, which joins in a central flight between Ionic columns, the visitor arrives at the principal floor. The large gallery is a fine apart¬ ment. HYDE-FABK-COBNEB—8T. GEOBGE’s HOSPITAL. 127 The neighbourhood is full of historical associations. In Coventry House, opposite the Green-park, died, in 1803, the husband of the beautiful Miss Gunning, William, sixth Earl of Coventry; from the house No. 80, Sir Francis Burdett was taken to the Tower—an officer scaling the walls with a ladder and entering the windows of the drawing-room, in which Sir Francis was found instruct¬ ing his son in English history, the streets being mean¬ while guarded by a troop of horse. This occurrence took place on the 6th of April, 1810. No. 105 was the old Pulteney Hotel, where the Emperor of Russia stayed during' the memorable visit of the allied Sove¬ reigns to this country in 1814. The mansion at the corner of Park-lane was once the residence of Lord Elgin, in the different rooms of which the Elgin marbles were placed previous to their removal to the British Museum. Cambridge House was formerly the residence of Lord Palmerston. The bay-fronted house at the corner of White-liorse-street was the residence for some time of Sir Walter Scott. Lord Byron spent the first part of his wedded life in that part of the Duchess of Queen sherry’s house, now the residence of the Countess of Kosebery, No. 139; and at the corner of the principal entrance to Hyde-park is Apsley House , the palatial mansion of the Duke of AVellington, next the new mansion of Baron Kothschild. It was here that the mob broke the windows, and that the “ Iron Duke ” had to barricade the front of the building during the days of the old Deform Bill. Directly opposite is the Triumphal Arch surmounted by the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, by Wyatt. This, the largest, and not the handsomest, statue of the kind in London, was erected in 1846, in defiance of the opposition of the press, at a cost of 36,000/. The arch itself stands at the head of Constitution-hill, and is a reduced copy of the Temple of Jupiter in the ltoman Forum. At the corner of Grosvenor-place is ST. GEORGE’S HOSPITAL.—This house, built on the site of Lanesborougli House, by William Wilkins, R.A., the architect of the National Gallery, which erec¬ tion it far surpasses in grandeur of appearance, was con¬ verted into an infirmary in 1733. Within its walls the celebrated John Hunter died, in 1793, from the effects of sudden excitement. He had frequently said that he should die suddenly, being afflicted with a long-standing disease of the heart; and being one day engaged in a controversy with some of his colleagues about a small 128 GBEEN PAEK—BUCKINGHAM PALACE. matter of precedence, he stopped speaking all at once, retired to an ante-room, and immediately expired. In Grosvenor-place was Tatter sail's, the fashionable auction- mart for horses, and aristocratic betting-rooms. (See p. 130.) Crossing the street, we pause a minute before the principal entrance to Hyde-park, which consists of five avenues, three for carriages and two for pe¬ destrians supported by noble Ionic pillars, with a frieze above, representing a triumphal equestrian pro¬ cession. THE GREEN PARK is only separated from Picca¬ dilly on the one side and from St. James’s-park on the other by an iron railing. It extends westward to Hyde- park-corner, the line of communication being the fine ascent, called Constitution-hill. This Park adds greatly to the pleasantness both of St. James’s and the Queen’s palace, and of the line of houses which overlook it on the east, among which are those known as Stafford House, Spencer House, Bridg¬ water House, and a less ambitious looking building distinguished by bay windows, is the whilom residence of Rogers, the poet and banker, in the drawing¬ room of which were held those celebrated literary reunions to which talent and celebrity were the only introductions. The street front forms No. 22, St. James’s- place. The Green-park consists now of about fifty-six acres, and lies between Piccadilly, Constitution-hill, and St. James’s Park. Previously to 1767 it was much larger, but George III. reduced it to enlarge the grounds of old Buckingham House. Strolling on upon the soft green turf, the charac¬ teristic of the London Parks, and gossiping by the way, we catch a glimpse, here and there, of the beautiful hills in Surrey, and come in view of Buckingham Palace, the town residence of the Queen. Of our parks, a French critic, M. Assolant, who made some very severe, and some not undeserved, strictures on London generally, says,—“ The Luxembourg and the Tuileries do not approach them. They are vast prairies, where you see flocks of sheep browsing among women and children, who are lying down on the grass, or playing on it. In this consists the real superiority of London, and I must admit that Paris has nothing like it.” BUCKINGHAM PALACE is situated at the west¬ ern end of St- Jaiqes’s Park. It was built by Georgo nsington Falace. 2. St. James'* 1. Kei 4 . Whitehall Palace 5. Lambeth Pala 3. Buckingham Pa ace. BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 129 IV. on the site of old Buckingham House, and has from time to time been much altered. The eastern front, added to Mr. Nash’s building a few years since, is 360 feet long, and completes the quadrangle. The entire edifice is of stone, and has cost nearly a million sterling. Although it contains many magnificent apart¬ ments, it is, as a whole, by no means a fine structure, especially for the principal royal palace, in London. The Queen’s apartments are situated on the eastern and northern sides. During the absence of the Court from London admission to view the palace may be obtained by special order of the Lord Chamberlain, at St. James’s Palace. To view the royal stables, with the state coach and stud, application must be made to the clerk of the mews. The various objects of interest in Buckingham Palace are—the throne room, in which the Queen receives addresses (this room has the “Wars of the Boses,” by Stothard, in the frieze ;) the green drawing-room, the state ball-room, the banqueting room, the grand saloon, and the grand staircase. The royal collection is very fine, more particularly those of the Dutch and Flemish schools, principally collected by George IV. Among the paintings are works by Albert Durer, Rubens, Van Dyck, Cuyp, Paul Potter, Teniers, Reynolds, Wilkie, and Sir W. Allan. The “ Ship-builder and his Wife,” by Rem¬ brandt, was purchased by George IV., when Prince of Wales, for 6000 guineas. In the royal gardens is an elegant pavilion, designed by the late Prince Consort, and adorned with fresco paintings, by Stanfield, Maclise, Eastlake, Landseer, and other well-known artists. The old conservatory was some years since converted into a chapel; and in 1851, the Marble Arch, that formed the eastern entrance gate to what was then the open court, was taken down and re-erected at Cumberland-gate, the entrance to Hyde-park from Oxford-street, as already mentioned. Within the palace are the offices of the Lord Steward, and other departments connected with the royal household. The new facade has more the appear¬ ance of a row of modern mansions, than the palace of the sovereign of this wealthy and powerful empire. In the centre of the facade is an arch, with a balcony, supported by bold trusses, surmounted by scroll-work, and colossal figures of St. George and the Dragon, and Britannia with the British Lion, by Termouth. The principal, or garden front, is ornamented with statues of Prudence, Temper- anoe, Fortitude, Faith, Hope, and Charity; and has a K 130 KENSINGTON GARDENS AND PALACE. terrace of the like extent. Military trophies, and festoons of dowers are distributed over various parts of thebuilding, where ornaments have been required to give effect. Beyond Piccadilly, westward, just past Sloane-street, the road divides. That to the left leads to Brompton and South Kensington, in which is the South Kensington Museum. Many fine mansions have been lately erected. Tattersall’s, removed from Hyde-park Corner in 1865, occupies a site previously of small value, in the Brompton-road. it will be recognised by the small triangular space planted with evergreens. Old Brompton contains several good houses and some very pretty streets and squares. The road to the right from Knightslridge, past the Barracks, leads to Kensington, beside Hyde-park. I Nearly opposite, a little to the west, are the Albert i Memorial and Hall, the Horticultural Gardens and Conservatory, built on the site of Gore House and the - adjoining grounds. Here are held the great flower shows that draw all London westward; and in the Museum at I South Kensington are to be found some of the most interesting treasures of art and science in the world. The International Exhibition of 1862 was held in a building close by. The ground was purchased by the Government in 1864. The road still farther west leads through Kensington to Hammersmith, and so on to Kew and Richmond, which places are noticed in another page. The Royal Albert Hall was opened in great state by her Majesty on the 29th of March, 1871, to be devoted to the promotion of the interests of science and art, to con¬ certs, and to various meetings and exhibitions of different societies in connexion with the progress of education in thesG subjects. KENSINGTON GARDENS and PALACE are situated on the west side of the picturesque grounds known as Kcnsington-gardens. These beautiful gardens form a continuation of Hyde-park to the west. They are about two hundred and ten acres in. extent, and are at all times open to the public, who throng the fine walks and shady groves during the summer season—especially when the band plays, in the afternoons of Tuesdays and Fridays. Kensington-palace, the residence of the Prince and Princess of Teck, is a red-brick building, of no particular period, but a congeries of apartments, halls, and galleries, presenting, externally, few features KENSINGTON PALACE—REGENT’S PABK. 131 of architectural beauty. The orangery, a fine detached building, was built by Sir Christopher Wren. The palace contains a good suite of state apartments, but that which gives it the greatest interest, is the circumstance of its having been the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Kent, and the birth-place, in 1819, of her Majesty Queen Victoria, who, in the seclusion of its privacy, spent the greater part of her youthful days. There, on her accession to the throne, in 1837, she held her first council. Crossing Tyburnia by the Grand Junction-road, nearly opposite the new road formed across Kensington-gardens, we reach REGENT’S PARK. This delightful park is situated on the north side of the metropolis, between the Marylebone- road and Hampstead. In the reign of Elizabeth this was a royal park and residence. At the Restoration it passed into the hands of private individuals ; when, on its reverting to the Crown, in 1814, it was again converted, under the direction of Mr. Nash, into a park, by the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., from whom it derives its name. It is nearly of a circular form, and consists of four hundred and fifty acres, laid out in shrubberies, adorned with a fine piece of water, and intersected with roads and delightful promenades. There is also an artificial lake, over which are thrown pretty suspension bridges. Around the park are numerous magnificent terraces of mansions, villas, and private dwellings, in various styles of architecture, l'he Outer Circle is two miles in circumference ; the Inner Circle is a perfect circle. Many of the discoveries of new planets, comets, and asteroids, were made by Mr. Hind, at Mr. Bishop’s Observatory, near the Inner circle. Here also are the Botanic-gardens, the principal entrance facing York-gate. These gardens contain about eighteen acres, but they have been laid out with so much skill, that tney appear of much greater extent. They are beautifully diversified by hill and dale, rural retreats, and winding walks. The conservatory, or winter-garden, enclosing an area of 175 feet in length, and 75 in breadth, is a source of great attraction to visitors, and is capable of accommodating two thousand persons. Three exhibi¬ tions are held annually, in the months of May, June, and July, when nearly 300 medals are distributed, varying in value from twenty pounds to fifteen shillings. Ad¬ mission may be obtained by a Fellow’s order. 132 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS—COLOSSEUM. The Zoological-gardens are situated in the Outer Circle on the north-east side of the park. The grounds are extensive and tastefully disposed, and possess many horticultural attractions; they are so laid out as to best suit the numerous animals located within them. Dispersed throughout the grounds are numerous graceful buildings, admirably adapted for the wants of their various inmates. The collection consists of nearly 2000 rare and beautiful animals ; about a fourth of which are mammalia ; the remainder birds and reptiles. The animals brought by the Prince of Wales from India were added last year. The different animals are exhibited in paddocks, dens, and aviaries, suited to their several habits. Open daily, from nine o’clock a.m. to sunset. On Sundays, to Fellows only. Admission one shilling; on Mondays, sixpence. The Society’s rooms are at No. 11, Hanover-square. The Colosseum, on the east side of Regent’s-park, with an entrance from Albany-street, is now in course of demolition. The building was after the general design, though very much smaller, of the Pantheon at Rome. It was built in 1824. It was for years celebrated for its panoramas of London and other cities, dioramas, dissolving views, conservatories, Gothic aviary, Temple of Theseus, Swiss Cottage, &c. A little further north are St. Katherine’s Collegiate Church and School, once associated with a royal hos¬ pital founded in 1148 by Matilda, wife of King Stephen, and subsequently enlarged and otherwise en¬ riched. The building was erected in 1825 on the construction of the St. Katherine’s-docks near the Tower, when the old hospital was pulled down. The revenues of the hospital were devoted to the maintenance of six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters. Near the Colosseum is the building which was formerly known as the Diorama. It was the property of Sir S. Morton Peto, by whom the structure was purchased and converted into a Baptist Chapel. While in the neighbourhood we can¬ not refrain from visiting PRIMROSE-HILL, which may be considered a sort of supplementary £ark for the people. It is close to Regent’s- .park, and is easily reached from the City and the east by means of the North London Railway. The hill and the surrounding fields belonged partly to Eton College, from the authorities of which the freehold was purchased by PRIMROSE-HILL—HOUSES OF THE NOBILITY. 133 the Government. From the summit may he obtained the best view of London. Near here was found, on Thursday, October 17th, 1678, the murdered body of Sir Edmonds- bury Godfrey. Near at hand was the famous duelling place, of the last century, the well-known Chalk Farm, taken down in 1853. Hampstcad-heath lies beyond to the north; while below, on the north-west, is that favourite suburb of villa and mansion-like houses, called St. John s-ivood. —The whole of the site on which this neighbourhood stands once belonged to the priors of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. Near the Eyre Anns is Lord’s Cricket Ground , the most celebrated cricket field in the world. In the season a match of cricket here is a sight to be seen and remembered. The residences of the nobility and gentry are principally at the west, south-west, and north-west part of London. In our walks we have already noticed some of these ; but the visitor will do well to see the interiors, if he can, of the following mansions :— Stafford House, in the Stable-yard, St. James’s, with a garden front overlooking St. James’s and the Green parks. This is the residence of the Duke of Sutherland. It was commenced in 1825, from designs by Mr. F. Wyatt, and was intended for the residence of the Duke of York. On his demise, it was purchased by the Marquis of Stafford, and furnished in the most splendid style. Its form is quadrangular, and it has four perfect fronts, all of which are cased with stone. The north or principal front, which is the entrance, exhibits a portico of eight Corinthian columns. The south and west fronts are alike ; they project slightly at each end, and in the centre are six Corinthian columns supporting a pediment. The east front differs a little from the preceding, as it has no projecting columns. About a quarter of a million has been spent in the fittings and decorations of this mansion. Contiguous to this is B) idgewater House, the town residence of the Earl of Ellesmere, Green-park, in which is one of the finest private collections of pictures in England. It was built in 1847-50, from the designs of Sir Charles Barry, It.A. Permission to view the pictures may be obtained by written application, or of Mr. Mitchell, New Bond-street. 134 CELEBBATED HOUSES AT THE WEST END. Devonshire House, in Piccadilly, facing the Green Park, the town residence of the Duke of Devonshire, contains a fine collection of pictures. The house is screened from the road by a high wall. Chesterfield House, South Audley-street, was built for that superfine gentleman whose “Letters to his Son’’ were once so much admired. It has a fine library and garden. The Earl of Chesterfield does not reside here now, hut usually lets it. Holford House, Park-lane, a splendid building lately erected. Lansdowne House, Berkeley-square, the residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne, was built for the Marquis of Bute, when minister to George III., and sold by him, before completion, to Lord Shelburne, afterwards Marquis of Lansdowne, for 22,000^., some 3000^. less than it is said to have cost. Priestley was living here as librarian to Lord Shelburne, when he made the discovery of oxygen. The house contains some very fine sculptures, paintings, and articles of vertu. Grosvenor House, the residence of the Marquis of West¬ minster, in Upper Grosvenor-street, Grosvenor-square, is celebrated for its pictures both ancient and modern, especially those by Rubens, four of which are said to have cost 10,000^., and its unequalled Claudes. The Grosvenor gallery is one all lovers of art should see. Apsley House, Hyde-park-corner, the residence of the Duke of Wellington, will well repay a visit. Notice the room in which the Waterloo Banquet was wont to be held by the “ Great Duke,” for thirty-six years. The windows overlooking the Park were closed with iron shutters, from 1831, when they were attacked by the mob, in the Reform Kiot days, to the time of the duke’s death in 1852. Apsley House contains some very fine pictures. Next door is the Mansion of Baron Rothschild, probably one of the finest private houses in London. Montagu House, in Whitehall Gardens, has only been a few years completed. It has a fine garden facing the Thames. It is one of the town residences of the Duke of Buccleueh. A handsome picture gaUery here contains some fine specimens of the Dutch painter, Van Dyck, and a celebrated collection of English miniatures. Burlington House, Piccadilly, recently greatly altered and extended, was erected by .Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlington, on the site of a house built by Sir John LEICESTER SQUABE. 135 Denham, the poet, who was his own architect, in the reign of Charles II. Who plants like Bathurst, and who builds like Boyle? It was admired by Horace Walpole, and is thus alluded to by Gay, in his “ Trivia — Burlington’s fair palace still remains. Beauty within;—without, proportion reigns; There Handel strikes the strings, the melting strain Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein. There oft I enter—but with cleaner shoes, For Burlington’s beloved by every muse. Burlington House was purchased by the Government in 1854; and is now occupied by the Royal Academy of Arts, the Royal Society, the Linnsean Society, and other learned associations. Holland House, Kensington. This building, which was recently damaged by lire, is one of the most interesting historical houses near London. It was built in the year 1607, and is celebrated as having been the residence of the poet Addison, who married the widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Warwick. Here it was that the poet died, after having called the young scapegrace earl to his bedside to “ see how a Christian can die !” This “ awful scene,” as Dr. John¬ son called it, is now considered very legendary. The house was afterwards sold to the first Baron Holland, the father of the celebrated Charles James Lox. The third Lord Holland, the famous Whig statesman, made Holland House a place of great social and political importance. His successor died in 1859, and the title is now extinct. The stone gateway on the eastern side of the house was designed by Inigo Jones. We have omitted LEICESTER-SQUAREinour notices of places worth seeing in the west end of London. Leiccster-square was built about the year 1G35, and was at one time a fashion¬ able locality. It is now the favourite resort of foreigners, and abounds in foreign hotels. The open space, long neglected, so that it became a disgrace to the metropolis, has been restored and decorated with shrubs and statuary at the expense of Mr. Albert Grant. The leaden figure that was once in the centre was a portion of the equestrian 136 LEICESTER SQUARE—ALHAMBRA. statue of George II. which was brought from Canons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos, about the year 1754. On the eastern side of Leicester-square lived John Hunter, who here formed the collection which was afterwards removed to the College of Surgeons. Next door to him lived Hogarth; in No. 47, lived and died Sir Joshua Reynolds; and in St. Martin’s- street, on the south side, still stands the house in which resided the great Sir Isaac Newton. Leicester House stood on the site of part of the Sabloniere Hotel, and was once inhabited by Elizabeth, the “Queen of Bohemia,” daughter of James I.; by George II., when Prince of Wales, and afterwards by his son, Frederick, Prince of Wales. On the site of Saville House, burnt down in 1865, it was some time ago proposed to build a new theatre, called The Denmark Theatre, with a winter garden attached, and a fine portico and esplanade, but nothing has come of the project. The house, called after Robert Sydney, Earl of Leicester, the father of Algernon Sydney, and Henry, the Handsome Sydney of the Grammont Memoirs, is now known only by name. But on a portion of its grounds stands The Alhambra, one of the most unique and handsome buildings in the metropolis. It was built in the Moor¬ ish or Arabesque style, and opened some years since under the title of the Panopticon—a sort of scientific and literary institution, like the Polytechnic in Regent- street. It is, architecturally, one of the most elegant of the metropolitan theatres. The great organ built for the Panopticon, was purchased for St. Paul’s Cathedral, where it now stands. Behind Leicester-square is a very remarkable neighbourhood forming part of Soho and com¬ prising Newport Market where the famous orator Henley preached. The father of Horne Tooke was a poulterer in this market. In this queer locality a number of genuine French shops are to be found much as they were during the emigration after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Many of them are cheap cafes and restaurants like those near “the barrier” in Paris. Several admirable charities are founded in Soho, among them the Newport Market Night Itefuge for the destitute, and the House of Charity in Greek-street, Soho-square. 137 FROM THE BANK EASTWARD. Cornhill— Stock Exchange—Lothbtjry — Bishops- gate Street — Leadenhall Street — Gracechurch Street—The Tower—The Custom House—The Tri¬ nity House—The Mint—St. Katherine’s Docks— London Docks—The Commercial Docks—The East and West India Docks — Thames Tunnel —Com¬ mercial Road—Blackwall Railway — Limehouse Church— Bow Road—Mile End—Victoria Park— Shoreditch—Whitechapel and Aldgate—London Hospital—Islington. “ This splendid city ! How wanton sits she amidst Nature’s smiles Nor from her highest turrets has to view, But golden landscapes and luxuriant scenes— A waste of wealth, the storehouse of the world!” Young. Returning to the City, the visitor will find much worth examination east of the Bank. From his original starting-place in front of the Mansion-house, he turns his face to the East, and has before him Cornhill, Lombard-street, and King William-street, on the right; while, on the opposite side, Threadneedle-street and Broad-street lead to Bisliopsgate and Shoreditch. CORNHILL is the principal street east of the Bank. It contains a large number of fine shops, insurance- offices, merchants’ counting-houses, and other commercial establishments. Here in the courts on the right are the famous taverns and commercial rooms, known as the Jamaica, and The Jerusalem. “Garraways” is now disused as a sale room, and the business is taken elsewhere in the City. Cornhill is so called, says Stowe, “because of a corn market time out of mind, there holden.” In the middle, just opposite Bank-buildings, was the famous conduit of sweet waters, and the “Standard,” with its four spouts, one running towards each point of the compass, every tide. The spot is now marked by a pump, bearing a suitable inscription. Close at hand was the Stocks Market. Distances were formerly measured from the Standard on Cornhill, as many a suburban milestone yet remains to prove. In this street are the two churches of St. Peter’s and St. Michael’s, the latter close to Birchin-lane, a famous street for monetary transactions, leading to Lombard• 138 COENHILL—STOCK EXCHANGE. street. Gray, the poet, was born in a house that stood where No. 41 now is. The poet’s birth-place was de¬ stroyed by fire in 1728, but immediately rebuilt by Gray himself, at a cost of 650/. Fortunate poet, to have a house of his own! Notice Pope’s-head-alley, once inhabited by cutlers, and now containing Reeves’ capital chop- house ; St. Michael’s-alley, the first place in which a coffee-house was established in London by Pasqua llosee, servant to Mr. Edwards, a Turkey merchant; and here, in the Jamaica Coffee-house, much of the underwriting for the West India trade is transacted ; Freeman’s-court, lately enlarged, and in which Daniel De Foe, the author of the immortal “ Robinson Crusoe,” carried on business as a hose factor, in 1702-3, when he was prosecuted for writing his “scandalous and seditious pamphlet,” entitled the “ Shortest Way with the Dissenters.” In Capel-court, Bartholomew-lane, beside the east side of the Bank of England, is the STOCK-EXCHANGE. Here business in funded stock, India stock, Exchequer bills, and all such securities, is transacted. During the railway mania, crowds assem¬ bled about this neighbourhood intent on money making; and both here and inShorter’s-court, Throgmorton-street, another entrance to the Exchange, policemen were in constant attendance to prevent the crowd accumulating to the obstruction of ordinary business. The Stock Exchange is not open to the public, the business of buy¬ ing and selling money and securities being confined to the brokers and the jobbers. This close corporation is governed by a committee of twenty-four members, annually elected by ballot. But there are also many outsiders, called jobbers, who, as a medium of sale between the buyer or seller and the broker, are of great utility. It may not be generally known, but few things can be bought in a wholesale way in London without the intervention of a broker. If a man wants to purchase a chest of tea, he must employ a broker; if a merchant requires a ton of tobacco, he must get a broker to buy it for him ; or if he wants indigo, or pepper, or drugs, or spices, or money, or any of the produce of the Indies, a broker must negotiate their purchase. The reason for this arrangement is obvious. If you had a thousand pounds in the Three per Cents., say, and you wanted to sell out, as it is called, you might find it difficult to procure a person wanting that particular quantity of that particular stock; but the broker being always ready LONDON BROKEBAGE—LOTHBURY. 139 to buy or sell, you go to him, and at once procure a purchaser. 'Ihus the broker, in large transactions, stands in precisely the same position to the buyers and sellers as the tradesman does to the wholesale merchants and the general public. The National Debt stands in the names of about 300,000 individuals, though more than 2,000,000 persons are concerned in the receipt of Government annuities—the smaller number of names being explained by the fact that many of them are merely trustees for charities, societies, or families. Behind the Bank, in LOTHBURY, are the Offices of Reuter's Electric Tele¬ gram Company ; the London and Westminster Rank, the largest joint-stock bank in the metropolis; and the church of St. Margaret. This street was once chiefly inhabited by copper founders, the memory of whom still remains in Founders’-court. In Tokenhouse-yard is the Auction Mart, a spacious and commodious building, erected by a company, composed principally of auctioneers, for the sale of estates, annuities, shares in public institutions, pictures, books, and other property, by public auction. In Threadneedle-street are the Baltic, the resort of Russian merchants; Merchant Taylors' Ilall ; and the celebrated South Sea House: here also are the Sun Fire Office, and the Consolidated Bank of London, the latter held in what was originally called the Hall of Commerce, one of the largest rooms in the City. It was built in 1830, by Edward Moxhay, a wealthy and speculative baker, who, from small beginnings, rose to great opulence. The original intention of Mr. Moxhay, in building the hall, was to provide a place of meeting for merchants during the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange. It afterwards became a kind of commercial club and sale room. In digging for the foundations of this building, a piece of Roman pavement was discovered, which w r as afterwards presented to the British Museum. Opposite, at the corner of Finch-lane, is the City Bank, built on the site of the shop of Alderman Sir F. Moon the print- seller. Broad-street contains many banking and commercial- houses. Northwards is Austin-Friars, a collection of counting-houses occupying the site of the House of the Augustin Friars, founded by Humphrey liohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, iu 1243. Fulke Greville, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, lived here when it was fashionable to live in the City. Moor gate-street leads to Finsbury-square, Finshury- "ircus (in which is the London Institution), and thence 140 BISHOPSGATE STREET—LEADENHALL STREET. to Islington and Iloxton. Two streets divide Cornliill from Leadenhall. They are Bishopsgate-street on the left and Gracechurch-street on the right. The first leads to Shoreditch, Hackney, Kingsland, &c. ; the last to Lon- don-bridge, and thence to Southwark, Bermondsey, Wal¬ worth, Kennington, Brixton, Camberwell, Dulwich, &c. BISHOPSGATE-STREET—Here stood one of the old City gates. The street is still distinguished as Bishopsgate Within and Without the City. Here stood the celebrated London Tavern, known all over England as the scene of “charity dinners,” but now demolished, the building of the Scottish Banking Corporation occupying the site. The National and Provincial Bank of England, one of the most beautiful buildings in the City, occupies the site of the old Flower-pot Tavern, at the eastern corner of Threadneedle-street. St. Botolph’s Church stands on the west side of the street. Nearly opposite are Crosby - square. Great St. Helens, and Crosby Hall, the name of which is familiar to the readers of Shakespeare’s “Richard III.” This magnificent building, the finest Gothic mansion in London, is now a great restaurant. The splendid Banqueting Hall is a public dining room. Sir Paul Pindar’s House (No. 169), afterwards a public- house, with the sign of Sir Paul Pindar’s Head, stood on the left, farther down Bishopsgate-street. Passing, on our way back, the Wesleyan Centenary Hall, and the entrance to the house of Messrs. Baring Brothers, the great American agents, we come to LEADEIS HALL-STREET.—The market hereis famous for the sale of meat, poultry, vegetables, bacon, and espe¬ cially hides. It isone of the most ancient in the metropolis, having been used as a place of sale for corn and meat as early as the year 1300. It escaped the great fire. In this street, Peter Motteux, the translator of “ Don Quixote,” kept a shop ; atNo. 122, Sir John Fenwick and his friends met to devise measures for the restoration of James II., after his abdication ; in the kitchen of No. 153 are the remains of an early English crypt; and at the Aldgate end of the street is the Church of St. Catherine Cree, supposed to have been rebuilt, on the site of the old church described by Stowe, by Inigo Jones, in 1630-1. Nicholas Brady, the editor, with Nahum Tate, of “ The Psalms Versified,” was once curate here. At the corner of Lime-street, and adjoining the market, is an immense building on the site of the old East India House, principally occupied by the well-known wine merchants, GBACECHTTBCH STEEET—THE TOWEE. 141 Messrs. H. R. "Williams and Oo., whose vast cellars of French and German light wines extend beneath the build¬ ing as tar as the market itself. Mr. Williams was one of the most active promoters of the reduction of the wine duties. GRACECHURCH-STREET is the principal standing place for omnibuses going “over the water” from the City. Next to Leadenhall-street is Fenchurch-street, and opposite to it is Lombard-street, at the corner of which is the Lombard Exchange and News Room, a very fine building, with an excellent luncheon-bar and dining-room. In the first street are situated Mark and Mincing lanes, the great markets for corn and colonial produce; in the last the principal London bankers have their houses. Lombard-street is so called from its original founders, the Lombards, or Longobards, who at the time of Edward II. used to meet there to transact their money concerns. Farther on in Gracechurch-street is King William-street leading west¬ ward to the Bank; a street principally filled with in¬ surance and merchants’ offices; and Great Tower-street to the east, wdiich leads directly to THE TOWER.—This celebrated fortress stands on the north bank of the River Thames, at the eastern extremity, and just without the limits of the City. The first authentic notice of it is, that William the Conqueror erected a fortress here, immediately after he had obtained possession of London, in the year 1066, with the view of intimidating the citizens from any opposition to his usurpation. Twelve years afterwards, lie built what is now called the AVhite Tower, which was repaired and strengthened by Henry III., in the year 1240. It is a large square structure, situated near the centre of the present fortress, and surmounted by four turrets. In 1092, William Rufus laid the foundation of a castle on the north side of the White Tower, between that and the river, which was finished by his successor Henry I. During the reign of Richard I., in 1190, the Chancellor Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, erected a fortified wall of stone round the Tower, with a deep ditch on the outside. In 1240, Henry III. added a stone gate and bulwark, with other buildings, to the west entrance. He also extended the fortress, by a mud-wall, on the western part of Tower-hill, and this encroachment was surrounded by a brick wall, by Edward IV., within which that monarch built the “ Lion’s Tower.” By the command 142 THE TOWEB—HISTOET OF. of Charles II., in 1663, the ditch was completely cleansed, the wharfing rebuilt with brick and stone, and sluices erected for admitting and retaining the water of the river, as occasion might require. In the early part of the present century, the ditch was again cleansed, and the sluices put in order. Various repairs, in different parts of the fortress, have also been made in late years. The principal store-house was begun by James I., and com¬ pleted by William III.; and. the small armoury was entirely built by the latter. This fortress has the appearance, within, of an exten¬ sive town, there being various ranges of buildings, and several streets, besides the barracks for the garrison. The whole comprises, within the walls, an extent of up¬ wards of twelve acres. The exterior circumference of the ditch, which entirely surrounded the land side, but is now used as a garden, is 3165 feet. This ditch, on the side of the Tower-hill, was broad and deep, but was much narrower on that nearest the river, from which it was divided by a fine handsome wharf, having a platform upon it, mounting 61 pieces of cannon. Besides these, there are a number of great guns, arranged as small batteries, on different parts of the walls. The chief entrance is by a stone bridge, thrown over the ditch on the west side of the Tower. At the outer extremity of this bridge are two gates, and within the ditch another, all which were shut up every night, and opened in the morning with particular formality. The wharf is con¬ nected with the Tower by a drawbridge, near which is a cut, leading from the ditch to the river, secured by a gate called Traitor’s Gate, from the circumstance of state prisoners having been formerly conveyed by this passage to "Westminster for trial. This fortress formed a principal residence of the Eng¬ lish sovereigns till after the accession of Queen Eliza¬ beth ; since that period it has been used as a state- prison, and as a place of security for the Regalia, and for the arms and stores belonging to the crown. Here, also, was the old M int, which, with the houses belonging to the various officers, &c., employed in the coinage, occupied nearly a fourth part of the building. In the Record Office, formerly a chapel in the White Tower, were preserved many ancient and important state papers. The yard on the right of the western entrance formerly contained the Eoyai Menagerie. In the Spanish Armoury are kept the trophies of the celebrated victory over the TOWER HILL. 143 Spanish Armada, together with a representation of Queen Elizabeth, who is standing by the side of her horse, arrayed in the same dress and armour she wore at Tilbury, in 1588, when she made her ever memorable speech to the assembled army. The Small Armoury con¬ tained, before the tires of 1841, complete stands of arms for upwards of 100,000 men, elegantly arranged, besides other curiosities. Under the armoury is another noble room, belonging to the royal train of artillery, where many beautiful and uncommon pieces of cannon may be seen. The Horse Armoury is filled with curiosities of different kinds, amongst which are the figures of the Kings of England on horseback, chiefly dressed in the ancient armour. The Volunteer Armoury, in the White Tower, contains arms for 30,000 men, besides pikes, swords, &e., arranged in many curious devices. Many interesting parts of the Tower, especially those connected with the Keep, have lately been thrown open to public inspection. Memorials of deep histo¬ rical interest are abundant. Ancient instruments of torture are not omitted. The royal jewels are especially worthy examination. They are said to be worth three millions sterling. The warders—Beefeaters, from Bou- fetiers, attendants at the boufet—are not now dressed in quite such a picturesque costume as of old, but they are sufficiently quaint in appearance and civil in character. In 1862 Her Majesty acknowledged the services of the late Mr. Superintendent Pierse, in saving the Crown Jewels at the fire at the Tower, in 1841, by a munificent gift to his sister, Mrs. Nash. There is now free admission to view the Tower and its curiosities on Mondays and Saturdays. The Tower is open daily from 10.30 to 4 o’clock. Tickets obtained at the entrance gate. A warder is in attendance every half hour to conduct parties in waiting. Admission to the armouries, 6 cl. each person; to the Crown jewels, CfA On Tower-liill Lady Raleigh lodged while her husband was confined within the fortress , and here, among the host of martyrs, were executed Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of Lady Jane Grey, Feb. 12, 1553; the Earl of Strafford, May 12, 1641; Archbishop Laud, Jan. 10, 1644 ; Sir Harry Vane, June 14, 1662 ; the great Sir Thomas More, Algernon Sydney, and Lord Lovat. This execution took place on April 9th, 1747. Lord Lovat was not only the last person beheaded on Tower-hill, but the last person decapitated in Great Britain. The 144 THE CUSTOM HOUSE. last State prisoner in tlie Tower was Thistlewood, in 1820, for a conspiracy to murder the ministers at a cabinet council. The moat was filled up a few years ago and planted over. It is now used as a drill- ground. On Tower-hill is the entrance to the new subway under the Thames, a strong iron tube seven feet in diameter in which an omnibus drawn by a stationary engine runs on a tramway across the bed of the stream, to Tooley-street. This new and expeditious tunnel-way was commenced by the engineer, Mr. Iiarlow, in February, 1869. On Tower-hill are the Trinity House and the Royal Mint , while in Thames- street are the Custom House, Billingsgate Market, and the Coal Exchange, a fine building, in which the coal- factors and merchants transact the business of supplying London with fuel. THE CUSTOM-HOUSE is an extensive pile, stand¬ ing on the banks of the Thames, immediately below Billingsgate, and a little to the west of the site of the old Custom-house, which was erected in 1718, and destroyed by an accidental fire in February, 1814. The great inconvenience which had arisen from the want of sufficient room to transact the vastly increasing business of the Customs, had previously induced the Government to determine on the erection of the present fabric ; the first stone of which was laid on the 23rd October, 1813, and it was opened for public use on the 12th May, 1817. The entire site is the property of the Crown, and the whole expense, including the purchase of ground, &c., was nearly 200,000^. The builders were Messrs. Miles and Peto. The general character of this edifice is plain¬ ness and solidity ; yet from its great extent and the simplicity and just proportion of its parts, the effect is grand and impressive. The Long-room is 190 feet by 60 feet, and about 55 feet high in the centre. In the midst of the area are circular desks, for the use of the merchants, &c., and others who attend here on business. At each end is a handsome lobby, communicating with the grand staircase at each wing, the principal entrances to which are in Thames-street. The Long-room is the chief office for the transaction of all that relates to the shipping business, both inwards and outwards. The basement and story comprising the cellars for receiving goods in bond, are vaulted with brickwork throughout, as is a great part of the ground floor, and all the corridors and passages. The building is, by this and numerous other inn jTii&i 'r V-t et 1. Covent Garden Market. 4. Coal Exchange. 7. Victoria Docks. 2. Corn Exchange. 5. East India Docks. 8. West India Docks. 3. Bi.lings?ate Market 6. St. Katharine’s Docks. 9. London Docks. TRINITY HOUSE—THE HINT. 145 precautions, rendered in a great measure indestructible by fire, and various incombustible rooms are distributed throughout for the depositing of books and important documents. Iron doors shut the communication between the centre and wings, that in case of accident the fire may not possibly spread. The Quay on the Thames side forms a pleasant promenade, and at each end are con¬ venient water stairs. The business of the Customs is managed by nine Commissioners, under the control of the Lords of the Treasury, and their jurisdiction extends over all the ports of England and Wales. To see Billingsgate Fish Market to perfection you should visit it early in the morning—say from five to eight. It is a sight in many respects unique. THE TRINITY HOUSE, on Great Tower-hill, is a handsome building of stone; and having the advantage of a rising ground for its site, and a line area in front, called Trinity-square, its situation is very pleasant. The interior is remarkably fine. In the Court-room are the portraits of George ill. and James II., Lord Sandwich, Lord Howe, and the late Mr. Pitt. At the upper end is a group of about twenty-four of the Elder Brethren of the Trinity House, the gift of the Merchant Brethren in 1794. The guild of the brotherhood of Trinity was founded by Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., in the year 1515, at Deptford, where nine almshouses for seamen were erected. Among the exten¬ sive powers possessed by the Brethren, are those of erecting lighthouses and sea marks, examining masters of ships, appointing pilots for the Thames, and removing obstructions to the river navigation. The Corporation consists of a master, four wardens, eight assistants, and eighteen elder brethren. THE MINT—on Little Tower-hill, which occupies a part of the site of the old tobacco warehouses, is an extensive building, with ponderous entrance gateways. It was designed and executed, in the Grecian style of architecture, by Sir Robert Smirke. The expense of erecting it, and furnishing it with the necessary mechanism, has been immense ; and the charges were increased by a part of the building having been destroyed by fire in 1816. The interior is arranged in the most appropriate and systematic manner; and the various engines and machines for the making of gold and silver coin are constructed in the very first style of ingenious excellence. Steam-engines of vast power give motion to L 146 ST. Katherine’s and London docks. the machinery. The whole interior is illuminated by gas. Messrs. Boulton and Watt, of the Soho works, near Birmingham, and Mr. Bennie, were the chief contrivers of the steam-engines and coining apparatus. The bronze coinage is made for the Government at Birmingham. The average production of coin at the Mint is about 6,000,000/. Permission to view the Mint is to be obtained only of the Master. It is proposed to build a new edifice for the Mint on the Thames Embankment, and to have the present building pulled down. We may now visit The Docks, which are near a.t hand. ST. KATHERINE’S DOCKS, though first noticed, are not the largest in the Port of London. The first stone was laid in May, 1827, and the docks themselves publicly opened in October of the following year—an instance of building expedition exceeded only by the International Exhibition Building at South Kensington. The total cost of these magnificent docks—for which 1,252 houses and the old Hospital of St. Katherine, since rebuilt in the ltegent’s-park, were purchased and removed— amounted to 1,700,000/., Mr. Telford being the engineer, and Mr. Hardwicke the architect. The area of the docks is about 24 acres, divided into the Wet and Dry docks ; the first of which covers a space of 114 acres, with a quay frontage of 4,600 feet, a portion of which is used as a steam-packet wharf. The entrance-lock is sunk deep enough to float, with ease, ships of 700 tons, and this some hours before high tide. The warehouses in connexion with these docks contain seldom less than 120,000 tons of goods and merchandise, principally the produce of the Mediterranean and America. The chief entrance is by a handsome gateway, nearly facing the Mint. The docks are open to public inspection from eight a.m. till four p.h. ; and by continuing your walk eastwards along the quay you come to another entrance, and crossing the road, enter the LONDON DOCKS, which are several in number, and communicate, each having a basin and canal. The nearest or western of the docks is twenty acres in extent. There is also a small dock which covers but one acre. The latter, which is called the Tobacco Dock, has ware¬ houses adjoining it four times as extensive as itself in the area which they occupy—that is, four acres. They can hold 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco, averaging 1200 lbs., each, besides having room in vaulted cellars beneath for COMMERCIAL DOCKS. 147 70,000 pipes of wine and spirits. A visit to the tobacco warehouses will well repay your trouble, though to enter them and the vaults it is necessary to obtain an order from the dock secretary, at the office, New Bank-build¬ ings. This is by no means so troublesome an affair as might be imagined—a polite note, enclosing the card of the applicant, being generally successful. Passing through various passages and alleys formed by hogsheads of the fragrant weed, we come to the north¬ east corner of the Warehouse, where a direction “ to the Kiln” points out the place where damaged tobacco, and many other things which are not worth paying duty on, are consumed. This is technically known as the Queen’s Tobacco Pipe, the long chimney above being the stem, and the roaring furnace below the bowl. Another large dock, called the Eastern, occupies seven acres, and has its own separate canal and basin communicating with the Thames, nearly a mile farther down, between Wapping-wall and Lower Shadwell. London Dock (Proper) was opened in 1805 ; the Eastern Dock is a later work. There is a Board of Directors, twenty-five in number, who sit at the Dock House and have the control of this establishment. These docks employ a capital of about four millions, and about 2000 vessels, from all parts of the world, repre¬ senting freights and cargo of upwards of 400,000 tons, are annually cleared here. Besides all this, numerous steam-vessels and emigrant ships, light¬ ers, and smaller carrier boats, are constantly moored to the quays or afloat in the basins. You should by no means neglect to inspect the emigrant ships, which are open to the public all day long; and if you know a mer¬ chant in Mark or Mincing lanes, Fenchurch street, procure, if you can, a wine-tasting order, which will enable you to view the wonderful extent of vaults, covering an underground area of 890,545 feet, perhaps the largest in the world: one vault alone, the Eastern, occupying a ground space of seven acres ! It is said that the walls alone which surround the dock on the land side cost upwards of 65,000/. Ladies are not admitted to the vaults after one o’clock. The East and West India Docks are farther down the river, and extend from Lime- house to Blackwall; but while on the subject of docks we may say a word or two about them. Opposite Lime- house , on the other side of the river, are THE SURREY COMMERCIAL DOCKS, which cover L 2 143 POET OF LONDON. an area of fifty acres in the whole range, of which thirty- eight are water. The Commercial Docks are six in number. They were opened in 1807, and consist principally of the old Greenland Docks, formerly used for vessels in the whale fishery. They are now occupied by timber vessels and other ships trading in the Baltic ana East Country commerce. The removal of the mud deposited in the docks by the steam navigation of the Thames is said to cost the Company upwards of 10007. a-year. A visit to Rotherhithe and the Commercial Docks may well repay the curious inquirer for a day’s walking. Everything in Rotherhithe partakes of the sea. The shops are tarry, the regular inhabitants are fishy, and the very soil is sandy and saturated with brackish water. At the Dock Offices, 106, Fenchurch-street, an order to view the premises may easily be obtained. Behind the Commercial Docks is the Grand Surrey Canal, with its several docks and basins for the storing and seasoning of timber. It may be as well to say here that the Port of London, as actually occupied by shipping, extends from London-bridge to Deptford, being a dis¬ tance of four miles, and is from four to five hundred yards in breadth. It may be described as consisting of four divisions, called the Upper, Middle, and Lower Bools, and the space between Limehouse and Deptford. The Upper Pool extends from London-bridge to Union- hole, about 1600 yards ; the Middle Pool, from thence to Wapping New-stairs, 700 yards; the Lower Pool, from the latter place to Horseferry Tier, near Limehouse, 1800 yards; and the space below to Deptford, about 2700 yards. THE EAST AND WEST INDIA DOCKS are situ¬ ated upon the Isle of Dogs. A voluntary subscription of 1,330,0007 enabled the founders of the West India Docks to begin the great work in the year 1800. The docks consist of an import dock, opened in 1802 ; an export dock, for outward-bound ships; a south dock and timber dock; besides tidal basins and a reservoir, making altogether nearly 300 acres of land and water. At the east entrance, near the dock station, is a statue of the Chairman who presided when Pitt laid the first stone. The import dock is surrounded by large sugar, coffee, and other warehouses, and stores for mahogany, dye-wood, wines, spirits, &c. Burdett-road, named after Miss Bur- dett Coutts, leads from the Docks to Mile-end. Owing, it is said, to some parish jobbery, the street is less straight and spacious than it should be; and though it EAST AND WEST INDIA DOGES. 149 contains some well-built houses, it is not by any means remarkable. The journey from the Docks or Blackwall to the City is easily made by railway. The East India Docks are near the mouth of the Lea, and consist of a basin and two docks (one called the Brunswick Dock), opened in 1806 for the use of the East India Company’s ships. Here Green’s, Money Wigram’s, and other clipper ships clear out for Australia, China, &c. At the expiration of the East India Company’s exclusive trading charter, these docks became the property of, and were united with, the West India Docks. The Company have their City offices in Billiter-street, with ware¬ houses in Fenchurch-street, Billiter-street, and Crutched Friars. The water is deeper in these docks than in any except the St. Katherine s. The Brunswick-pier, Blackwall, with water always high enough, and ample hotel accom¬ modation, is in connexion with the East India Docks. Towards the south of the West India Export Dock is a canal, nearly a mile long, dug some years since for the purpose of connecting Blackwall-reach with Limehouse- reach. This cutting, as you will perceive by reference to the map, does indeed constitute the peninsula called the Isle of Dogs an actual island. Although a con¬ siderable saving of time is effected by avoiding the great bend of the river, this canal is very little used except as a dock for steamers. The Victoria London Docks occupy a very extensive area farther west. No one should leave London without visiting the docks; for there, perhaps better than anywhere else, may be observed the indications of the immense wealth and influence of the British metropolis. In no other place in the world is collected so much actual wealth with so little apparent display ; _ for it does not show itself in the shape of gold and silver and glittering gems, but under the guise of huge misshapen hales of merchandise ; rough, ugly, patched and broken hogsheads ; dirty casks, and ill-made grass bags; nauseous hides, and musty oil¬ cakes ; strange heaps of rough brown antlers, and shape¬ less masses of wool and cotton ; bags of rice, and casks of cocoa ; sickly-smelling barrels of' tallow, and ill-made packages of indigo; heaps of strange woods, and logs of dirty-looking timber ; besides sugar, and tea, and coffee, and drugs, and spices, and oils, and soda, and alkalies, and lime, and stones, and wines and spirits, and rough gems and precious stones yet innocent of the lapidary’s 150 THE DOCKS—THAMES TUNNEL. art, and children’s toys, whole shiploads at a time! There, among the forests of masts, have met people of all nations and tongues; not to quarrel and disagree, but in the prosecution of the peaceful principles of commerce and profit—principles which, with education and reli¬ gion, are destined at last to “replenish the earth and subdue it.” For this friendly meeting and interchange of the world’s commodities have the toilers worked beneath the sun of Africa or frozen in the Baltic’s icy billows ; for this have rough unshorn men braved storm and wreck and danger, and even death itself, upon the broad unfathomed ocean—outlying on the slippery yards at nights, and soothed by the music of their own homely voices—till at length the curse is turned into a blessing, that by the sweat of their faces are they enabled to eat bread. While in the neighbourhood of the river—the dirty dis¬ trict of Shadwell, Ratcliff Highway, and Old Gravel-lane —the visitor will not fail to go by railway through the THAMES TUNNEL.—This great arcade stretches beneath the bed of the river Thames, from Wapping- stairs, on the north bank, to Church-stairs, Rotherhithe, on the south bank. Sir Isambard K. Brunei was the designer of the stupendous undertaking, which consists of a pile of brickwork 37 by 22 feet square, beneath the superincumbent waters of the Thames. In this pile were pierced two arched passages, each of which was 16 feet and some inches wide, and furnished with a foot¬ way 3 feet wide. The Tunnel is 1200 feet long. This great work was commenced in 1825 ; closed for seven years by an inundation which filled the whole Tunnel; recommenced in January, 1835, when thousands of sacks of clay were thrown into the river-bed above it; carried on with varied success and unwearied perseverance ; and finally opened to the public, March 25, 1843, much to the gratification and astonishment of the scientific world and the people, but to very little useful purpose as a sub-river way. The idea of the shield, which is the peculiarity of the new plan of tunnelling, is said to have been presented to Brunei by the operations of a testaceous insect, covered with a cylindrical shell, called the teredo, which eats its way through the hardest wood, and for that reason was named by Linnaeus cala- mitas navium. The Tunnel is now converted into a railway, carrying passengers from Rotherhithe to Wap¬ ping. C0MUE2CUL-E0AD—LIMEHOUSE CHUBCH. 151 Passing through Ratcliff Highway, now known as St. George’s-street, the headquarters of seamen belonging to the merchant service, and remarkable for nothing if not for its numerous marine-store shops, gin-shops, and slop-shops, its hsh-stalls in the streets, and its scores of unbonneted women, the stranger may, by way of any of the streets on his right, reach the COMMERCIAL-ROAD, a wide thoroughfare, which extends eastward from Whitechapel Church to its ter¬ mination at the West India Docks. It is a street com¬ posed almost entirely of shops, the majority of which, especially those at the east end, are devoted to the sale of necessaries for ships and sailors. To the right the river Thames runs almost parallel with the street; but nearer to us, and visible here and there, in the iron bridges that cross the side streets, is the BLACKVVALL RAILWAY, which, having its City terminus in Fencliurch-street, with intermediate stations at the Minories, Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, and Poplar, joins the North London at Stepney, by means of which passengers are carried from either of the stations named to Hackney, Islington, Highbury, or Camden Town. In fact, the railway system is becoming so far complete as to promise, in a few years, to supersede other modes of conveyance altogether; so that, even at pre¬ sent, the resident at Row, Stratford, Stepney, Hackney, Stoke Newington, Kings/and, Islington, or Blackwall, has no necessity, when he wants to go to Liverpool or the North, to ride or walk to Euston-square, but may book himself for the whole journey at any of the minor stations along the line. The Blackwall Railway consists of about eight and a half miles, built principally upon arches. In 18G5 it was amalgamated with the Great Eastern. We may pause to take a glance at that well-known landmark LIMEHOUSE CHURCH.—This handsome structure, partially destroyed by lire on the 29th of March, 1850, and since rebuilt and redecorated, is one of the fifty churches erected during the reign of Queen Anne. It was consecrated September 12, 1730. The architect was Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of the famous Wren; and St. Anne’s, Limehouse, like All Souls’ College, Oxford, by the same architect, is distinguished by pure taste and nobility of design. The parish of Limehouse —originally called Lime Hurst, or Lime Host, meaning Lime Kiln, was separated from Stepney about the time of the building 152 BOtV-BOAD—MILE-END. of the church, before which period the parish of Stepney, or Stebonheath, consisted of what are now known as the parishesof St. Mary (Whitechapel), Stepney, Limehouse, Poplar, Shadwell, Bethnal-green, Spitaltields, Bow, and Bromley, and the hamlets of Mile-end Old-town, Ratcliffe, and Mile-end New-town. Near Limehouse Church the street divides itself into two wide and open thorough¬ fares ; that to the right leading to the East India Docks, Barking, and the eastern counties, is called the East India-road, while that to the left leads to, and termi¬ nates in the West India Docks, already noticed. A pleasant walk through the new streets, which cover what a few years since was wide open fields, brings us to the BOW-ROAD.—The road eastward leads to Stratford (Stratford-le-Bow), a pleasant suburb really in Essex, but belonging entirely to the metropolis. Stratford New-town, near the church, consists of a large number of small houses, principally inhabited by workmen employed on the Great Eastern Railway and its neighbouring lines. Standing at the top of Bromley- lane, we are about two miles east of what is called London Proper, and in a suburb famous as having been to our ancestors what Gravesend, and Greenwich, and Windsor, and the Isle of Wight are to us—pleasant retreats for a day in the summer. Then folks went no farther out of town for a day’s excursion than their legs could comfortably carry them; now we have railroads and steam-boats to transport us from the wilderness of bricks and mortar, and smoke, and city churchyards, to where we may breathe the pure air of heaven miles and miles away. Bow Church (Saint Mary's) was built by Matilda, Queen of Henry I., and is one of the oldest ecclesiastical structures in London. Chaucer says of his prioress :— “ And Frenscli sche spak ful faire and fetysly. After the scolc of Stratford atte Bow.” The parish of Bow was separated from that of Stepney in 1720. The road here is wide and open, and is, perhaps, one of the best entrances into London. There are numerous almshouses belonging to the City companies on the south-side of the way; and as we come into MILE-END, we notice, just after we have crossed the bridge over the Regent's Canal —a walk by the side of which leads to Limehouse on the one hand and to Hack- STEPNEY-GREEN—VICTORIA-PARK. 153 ney on the other, Bancroft’s Almshouses, founded in 1735 by Francis Bancroft, who left 28,000/. to the Drapers’ Company for their maintenance, and that of a school for 100 boys. He was buried in Great St. Helen’s Church, Bishopsgate, whither, on the anniversary of his death, the boys and their masters used to attend public worship. Stepney-green, on the left, leads to Stepney Church (Old. St. Dunstan’s), which is well worthy a visit. Colet, the founder of St. Paul’s School, and Richard Pace, the friend of Erasmus, were rectors of Stepney, which parish was in old times a rich and re¬ spectable suburb, but is now crowded with poor houses and small shops. In the east wall of the church (re¬ moved a few years since, when the fabric was badly repaired, to make way for a poorly-painted window) was the marble monument erected to the memory of Dame Rebecca Berry (died April 26, 1696), wife of Thomas Elton, of Stratford-le-Bow, and widow of Sir John Berry, with the device of the fish and the ring, about which is told the well-known legend of the knight being betrothed to the maiden, and throw¬ ing the ring into the sea, with an oath that he would not marry her till she found it; which ring she, of course, did eventually' find while cleaning a cod-fish in her then humble capacity of cook, and, of course, was married to the knight in consequence. It is needless to say that this story, as well as the notion that all children born at sea have a claim on the parish of Stepney, is a vulgar error ; the truth is that the fish and the ring on the tomb are the arms of the Elton family, which are the same as those borne by the family of Ventris, of Cambridge¬ shire. The story, too, is not original, the same incident being found in the ‘‘ Arabian Nights’ Entertainments.” The Parish of Stepney consists of the hamlets of Mile-end Old-town and Ratcliff. Close to the Bow station of the North London Railway is the Bow and Bromley Institute, where excellent entertainments are given. Either of the turnings on the right in going to Mile- end, westward, lead to VICTORIA-PARK, which may also be reached by rail or omnibus from the City. This beautiful park, one of the largest and most picturesque near London, is situated on what used to be called Bishop Bonner’s Fields. This ground was bought by the Government with the money (72,000/.) paid to the Crown by the Duke of Sutherland for Stafford House, at the palace entrance of St. James’s 164 BETHNAL-GEEEN—SHOBEDITCH. Park. It was opened in 1847, for the recreation of the inhabitants of the east side of London. Its area is about 290 acres. It is bounded on the east by Hackney Wick (where there is a station of the Blackwali ana North London Railway), on the west by the Regent’s Canal, on the south by Sir George Duckett’s Canal, and on the north by Grove-street-road, and Victoria-park-road, Hackney. It is approached, besides the walks leading from Mile-End and Bow, by roads leading from Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. It was laid out under the direction of Mr. Curtis, and is really quite a charming place of recrea¬ tion ; for, in addition to the dowers, walks, and water, there are cricket and gymnastic grounds. A very hand¬ some Gothic Drinking Fountain was in 1862 erected in the midst of this park for the people, at the sole cost of the Baroness Burdett Coutts. Through the Elizabethan gates, and out into Betlinal-green, we come to the space known as Victoria-square, where The Bethnal Green Museum has been erected for a perpetual Industrial and Fine Art Exhibition for the people. Passing up the Hackney-road from Camhridge-heath turnpike, leaving Hackney, and Humcrton, and Dulston, and Kingsland, on our right, we make our way through a poor and densely-crowded neighbourhood, to SHOREDITCH.—Just before coming to the church is the turning which leads to the magnidcent building known as Columbia Market, built by the Baroness Burdett Coutts, and opened as a market for this poor district in 1869. Not succeeding in this, it was handed over to the Corporation of London as a Fish Market. The Corporation could not make it succeed, and therefore handed it back again. Who would imagine, glancing at the dirty, stall-lined streets, that this was once a goodly neighbourhood? Yet so it was; for here stood the Curtain Theatre, and here, in the burial-ground attached to St. Leonard’s Church, lie buried Will Somers, Henry VIII.’s celebrated jester; Tarlton, the clown of Shakespeare’s plays; Burbage, the actor of Shakespeare’s heroes; and many other celebrated characters. The church was built by Dance in 1740 on the site of the old one. We come now to the large station of the Great Eastern Railway, facing the Standard Theatre —one of the best of the east-end places of theatrical entertainment. Opposite Shoreditch Church is a station of the North London Railway. Close by is the Britannia Theatre, Hoxton, one of the largest in London. WHITECHAPEL AND ALDGATE. 155 Byway of the new street, called Commercial-street— in which is Spitalfields Church and the opening’ to Spital- fielils Market, a large mart for vegetables, or by Hounds - ditch, opposite Bishopsgate Church —we reach WHITECHAPEL and ALDGATE. — Whitechapel, with its hay-market in the centre, its butchers’ shambles facing the road, its old-fashioned houses, its few remain¬ ing taverns of the bygone days of stage-coaches, and its street stalls illuminated at night with thousands of naphtha lamps, is one of the most picturesque, if not altogether the most aristocratic, of highways. At the junction of Whitechapel with Aldgate, at the corner of the Minories, is the establishment of Messrs. E. Moses and Son, reaching from the Minories to Jewry-street and occupying many houses in depth. By the Minories we reach the Tower and the Docks. At the south end of this street is Rosemary-lane, another mart for old clothes; and on the west side is America square, and the streets leading to Mark and Mincing lanes—a neighbourhood famous for tea-brokers and colonial agents. Not far from Mark-lane in Tower- street is Tom’s Dining-rooms, on the site of a very cele¬ brated house—the Tzar’s head, where, after having linished their day’s work, Peter the Great and his boon companions used to resort to smoke their pipes and drink beer and brandy. The room in which they used to sit, or a part of it, has, it is said, been preserved in the present establishment, which is a cheap and comfortable chop house. In Aldgate High-street, near the City terminus—White¬ chapel Bars, now shown by a couple of dwarf granite pillars—is Petticoat-lane, the mart of the Hebrew dealers in old clothes, and leading to the Clothes mart, in Cutler- street, Houndsditch, A little west of Aldgate Church stood one of the gates of the City—the old gate described by Stowe ; close to the site of which is Aldgate Pump, where, in 1549, says Stowe, “the bailiff of Romford was executed. I heard the words of the prisoner, for he was executed upon the pavement of my door where I then kept house.” Strype, the con- tinuator of “ Stowe’s Londou,” once resided in Petticoat- lane, which, in his day, had trees on either side. In the centre of Houndsditch, which leads from Bishops- gate-street to Aldgate, are the great warehouses and showrooms of Messrs. Defries and Sons, the well-known manufacturers of chandeliers and all kinds of glass, 156 LONDON HOSPITAL—ISLINGTON. china, and porcelain ware. Most of the chandeliers for the theatres and music-halls are, we understand, sup¬ plied by Messrs. Defries, who have also manufactured several superb objects in glass for Her Majesty, the Prince of Wales, and the Viceroy of Egypt, and other Eastern potentates. In Whitechapel-road stands the LONDON HOSPITAL, founded in 1740. The present plain but commodious building was erected in 1759, on what was then a wide open space. At this liosmtal, which makes up nearly 800 beds, and which is considered one of the best medical schools in London, thousands of suffering persons are relieved annually. A new wing was added to this excellent institution in 1865, and formally opened by the Prince of Wales; and another, initiated by the Grocers’ Company was opened by Her Majesty on the 7th of March last year. Whitechapel Church is a well-frequented but ugly church at the corner of the street leading to the Commer¬ cial-road. In Whitechapel-road is the Pavilion Theatre, and the new East London Theatre , devoted principally to those melodramas which delight the east-end public. We have now noticed the principal places of interest in the streets east of the Bank. To the north, as already stated, is Islington, which we may as well now mention briefly. ISLINGTON is situated in the north of London, be¬ yond the Angel and City-road. It contains St. Mary’s, a brick parish spire church, repaired many years back by means of a scaffolding of basket work ; the London Fever Hospital , Canonbtiry Tower, Agricultural Hall, Philhar¬ monic Theatre, &c. Sadler’s Wells Theatre is in St. John’s-street-road, hut is not now devoted to the drama. Hoxton lies to the east, and Holloway and Highgate to the north. In Islington lived Charles Lamb, author of the charming “Essays of Elia;” and in Canonbury Tower have resided at various times Oliver Goldsmith, Collins, Colley Cibber, and Sir Walter Raleigh. Islington, once famous for its cakes, as Chelsea for its buns, is the home of City clerks and well-to-do merchants. Once a pretty suburban village, it is now part of London itself. In 1861-2 there was erected on Islington-green a Statue and Drinking Fountain, to the memory of Sir Hugh Myddelton. The site of the statue and fountain is a few yards from one of the entrances to the Agri¬ cultural Hall. The figure of the knight, executed by NEW EIVEE—SIE HUOH MYDDELTON. 157 the late Mr. Thomas, the sculptor, is 8ft. 6in. in height. It is carved in white Sicilian marble, and represents Sir Hugh clothed in the costume of the latter portion of the 16th century, with badge and chain, holding in his left hand a scroll containing the plan of his great and useful work, labelled with the words “ New River.” The statue is placed upon a pedestal of grey Devonshire f ranite, on the front of which is the inscription,—“ Sir lugh Myddelton, B. 1555, D. 1631.” The figures and basins are of Sicilian marble. The whole stands upon a base of 17 ft. by 7 ft. The statue itself was given by Sir S. M. Peto, and the rest provided for by subscription, the New River Company having given 50 1. towards the cost. Sir Hugh Myddelton, one of the greatest of the many benefactors of the metropolis, was the sixth son of Richard Myddelton, Esq., Governor of Denbigh Castle. Having obtained from the City of London a grant of the parliamentary powers which had been conferred upon them for bringing a new supply of water to the metro¬ polis from streams in Middlesex and Hertfordshire, he began in April, 1608, to execute the work. Chadswell spi’ings—one rising near W are, and the other at Am well, in Hertfordshire—were united for the supply of an artifi¬ cial river, which was conducted to London. In length it was no less than 39 miles, in consequence of a great num¬ ber of windings having been made in order to avoid in¬ equalities in the ground. The vast expenses attendant upon the scheme exhausted the finances of Sir Hugh, who, having in vain applied for assistance to the corpora¬ tion of London, parted with his interest in it to a com¬ pany, but unlike modern “promoters,” only reserved to himself and his heirs for ever £100 a-year. This annuity ceased to be claimed in 1715. A single share in the com¬ pany is now worth ten times as much. On the 29th Sep¬ tember, 1620, the New River was publicly opened, and the water was admitted into the reservoir at Sadler’s Wells, Pentonville, with great pomp and ceremony. The ex¬ pense of the work was about 500,000^. Sir Hugh Myddel¬ ton was soon afterwards dubbed a knight and eventually obtained the grant of a baronetcy. 158 OVER THE WATER—SOUTHWARK. OYER THE WATER, “ Where London’s column pointing to the skies. Like a tall bully lifts its head, and lies 1 ”—Pope. The Monument—London Bridge—London Bridge Railway Terminus—The Church of St. Sayiour’s, Southwark—Bankside—St. Thomas’s Hospital— Guy’s Hospital—St. George the Martyr — The Marshalsea Prison—The Queen’s Bench Prison —The Elephant and Castle — Metropolitan Ta¬ bernacle—St. George’s Cathedral—Bethlehem Hospital—The Obelisk—New-Cut—London Ter¬ minus of the South-Western Railway — Lam¬ beth Palace. Let us now go south —“ over the water" as it is popularly called. Look at the map, and you will perceive the im¬ possibility of walking through those close-packed streets, and becoming acquainted with all their peculiarities. Instead, therefore, of pursuing any one line of road, we shall notice the more remarkable buildings “ over the water,” without particular regard to the distance to bo travelled, leaving the reader at liberty either to follow our steps or to omit altogether the less prominent features presented to his notice. There are seven or eight main lines of road, from which all the others more or less diverge. On crossing London Bridge, you find yourself in a wide thoroughfare, called High-street, Southwark, pursuing which, you passthrough Blackman-street and Newington-causeway to the “ Ele¬ phant and Castle,” where the road divides itself into six, like the spokes of a wheel— Newington-causeway, the street you have just come through ; the London-road, to the north-west, which leads to a central point marked by an Obelisk ; St. George’s-road, more north-westerly still, and leading to the Lambeth and Vauxhall-roads; the New Kent-road , to the east, leading into another main road, the Old Kent or Hover-road, which passes through a populous modern suburb, called Beckham New-town ; Newington Butts, to the right of the “ Elephant and Castle,” which is the direct road to Kennington, Clapham, and Brixton ; and the Wal worth-road, to the left, which leads straight to Camberwell and the beautiful village of Dulivich —both of which last streets are in a SOUTHWARK—DIRECTION OF STREETS. 159 southerly direction. From Great Dover-street, South¬ wark, the Kent-road has its commencement; and from the end of Blackman-street a wide street called the Borough-road leads to the Obelisk. From Southwark Bridge, the Southwark Bridge-road leads southerly into the Borough-road, and thence to the Obelisk ; from Blackfriars Bridge, a tine straight street, called the Blackfriars-road, leads direct to the Obelisk ; from Waterloo Bridge, the Waterloo-road also leads to the same spot, the Obelisk; and from Westminster Bridge the Westminster Bridge-road, a wide, noble street, brings you again to the Obelisk;—so that you perceive the Obelisk is a central point, from which you may reach any of the bridges, provided you turn your face to the north and take either of the four roads before you ; and from which you may bend your course to any parts of Lambeth or Southwark (called generally the Boro’), and from thence to the numerous pretty villages of Surrey and Kent. Near the railway arch which crosses the Wcstminster- bridge-road, is the Canterbury Music Hall, a fine spacious room, in which a musical entertainment takes place nightly. Canterbury Hall has a moveable roof, which slides in grooves, and gives perfect ventilation. The building is very commodious, and has succeeded the original, which was the earliest of the now numerous Music Halls in London. Vauxhall Bridge is directly in the road to Kennington- park and Oval, South Lambeth, and Camberwell ; while Battersea-bridge is the communication between Chelsea and Battersea ; and Putney Bridge, yet farther up the river, joins Parson's-green, Hammersmith, and Fulham, to Putney and the extreme south-west extremity of the borough of Lambeth. To the east of London Bridge lies the extensive and crowded neighbourhood of Bermondsey ; farther east still, and skirting the river side, is Botherhithe, which extends from Tooley-street and Bermondsey to Deptford, which lies immediately opposite the low marshy ground of the Isle of Dogs. Deptford Creek and the Ravens- bourne river divides the last-mentioned town from Greenwich. As before-mentioned, the Isle of Dogs is formed by the winding of the river and the canal, or South Dock, cut from Blackwall-reach to Limehouse- reach. Thus you will perceive that a continuous line of houses extends from Finchley to Greenwich. 160 THE MONUMENT—LONDON BRIDGE. These details, though rather dry, are necessary to the right understanding of what we shall say of Southwark and Lambeth. Proceed we, then, as briefly as may be, to describe the noticeable objects “over the water.” Passing down Gracechurch-street towards London Bridge we notice the Statue of King William IV., a bold de¬ sign, showing well from the street, and the far-famed MONUMENT.—This noble column was erected on Fish-street-hill, in commemoration of the Great Fire in 1666, which broke out at a short distance from this spot. It was begun in 1671 by that distinguished archi¬ tect Sir Christopher Wren, and, though the work was impeded at times for want of stones of sufficient scant¬ ling, it was finished in 1677. It is a fluted column, of the Doric order, 202 feet high, including its massy pedestal, and surmounting cippus and blazing urn. The west side of the pedestal displays an emblematical sculpture by Cibber, in alto and bas-relief, of the de¬ struction of the City, with Charles II., surrounded by “ Liberty, Genius, and Science,” giving directions for its restoration. On the other sides are appropriate inscrip¬ tions. Within the Column is a flight of 345 steps leading to an iron balcony above the capital, from which the prospect is extremely interesting. In this majestic column, which is 24 feet higher than Trajan’s Pillar at Rome, there are 28,196 feet of solid Portland stone. The inscription which formerly ran round the plinth was as follows:—“This pillar was set vp in perpetval remem¬ brance of that most dreadfvl burning of this Protestant city, begvn and carried by ye treachery and malice of ye Popish faetio, in ye beginning of Septem., in ye year of our Lord 1666, in order to ye carring on their horrid plott for extirpating the Protestant religion and old English liberty and the introducing Popery and slavery.” The inscription on the north side continued— “ Sed fvror papisticus qvl tam dira patravit nondum restingvitvr.” These offensive words, after being obliterated by James II., were recut in the reign of William, and finally dis¬ appeared by order of the Common Council on January 26, 1831. LONDON BRIDGE.—This noble bridge was built by Rennie, in 1824-31, a little above the old historical structure, and opened August, 1,1831, by King William LONDON BRIDGE—RAILWAYS. 161 IV. and Queen Adelaide. It is the most crowded bridge in the metropolis. Its width is 56 feet, and it has five grand arches—the middle one of 152 feet span. It cost, with the approaches, above two millions of money. It is within the City boundary, and it is supposed that not fewer than 8000 foot passengers and 900 vehicles pass over every hour. From London Bridge may be seen Fishmongers'-hall, a fine building ; Adelaide-wharf ; the Monument on Fish-street-hill, leading down to St. Magnus Church, with which the old bridge was in line ; the Custom-house, the Tower, and the shipping; St. Paul’s, and the numerous City churches. On the Borough side are Humphrey’s warehouses, Fenning’s wharf, the Telegraph-station; St. Saviour’s Church-tower, and the fine range of new warehouses built on the site of the tremendous fire of 1861. On the left, at the Surrey side of the bridge, is Tooley-street with its numerous ware¬ houses, wharves, and little docks; adjoining Tooley-strcet is the LONDON BRIDGE RAILWAY TERMINUS.—This extensive station accommodates various lines of railway —the South Eastern, with the Greenwich, North Kent, and Reading branches; the Brighton and South Coast, line, with the Crystal Palace and West-end lines ; tho Croydon and Epsom railways, and various branch lines. An extension from the South-Eastern to the South- Western, passes close to Barclay and Perkins’ great brew¬ ery ; with branches across the river, from near Southwark Bridge-road to Cannon-street, and thence to Charing- cross. Guy’s Hospital is close by, but St. Thomas’s Hos¬ pital has been removed to the fine range of new buildings at Stangate, opposite the Houses of Parliament. Omni¬ buses from almost all parts of London go to this congeries of railway stations. The principal hop-merchants have their offices in the new buildings about the Borough ; and at a short distance in Bermondsey is the leather market and several curriers’ warehouses. THE CHURCH OF ST. SAVIOUR’S, SOUTHWARK. —This was the Church of the Priory of St. Mary Overie, and was erected in 1540, when the parishes of St. Mary and St. Magdalene were united under the name of St. Saviour’s. Observe the Lady Chapel, winch was restored jn 1832. John Gower the poet, who died in 1402 ; fdmund Shakspeare, younger brother of the dramatist; M 162 BANKSIDE—THE HOSPITALS. John Fletcher, the coadjutor of Beaumont, in writing their well-known plays; and Philip Massinger, the dramatic poet, lie buried here. Behind the Borough Market, and comprehending that part of the river hank between the Clink and the Surrey end of Blackfriara Bridge, is BANKSIDE, where once stood the theatres known as Paris Garden, the Rose, the Hope, the Swan, and the- Globe; in the last of which—the “ wooden 0”—Shakspeare was a shareholder, and here he produced many of his most celebrated plays. The fire destroyed all trace of the Globe and the other playhouses. ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, once near this spot,, now occupies the magnificent range of buildings at Stangate, Lambeth, opposite the Houses of Parlia¬ ment. St. Thomas’s Hospital was founded in 1213, by Richard, prior of Bermondsey, as an almonry; enlarged in 1215 by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Win¬ chester ; bought at the dissolution of religious houses by the Corporation of London ; and opened as a hospital for poor sick persons in November, 1552. The present building accommodates 572 patients, and above 3000 were ad¬ mitted last year, by letters of admission, obtainable from the Governors. In St. Thomas’s-street, is GUY’S HOSPITAL, founded by Thomas Guy, in 1723, and built by Dance, at a cost of 18,7937. 16s. 1(7. Guy is said to have obtained his wealth by the purchase of seamen’s tickets, and transactions in stock in the bubble ” year. Admission by letters of recommenda¬ tion, to be obtained of the Governors. Besides being a great benefactor to St. Thomas’s, Mr. Guy, at the age of 76 years, began the present hospital, on which he expended 18,7937. previously to his death in December, 1724,. when he bequeathed the sum of 219,4997. for its endow¬ ment. He also left about 100,0007. for his poor relations, and for other charitable purposes. In the chapel, near the altar, is a statue of the founder, in white marble, executed by Bacon, in 1799. The Governors were incorpo¬ rated by Act of Parliament, and empowered to purchase, either in perpetuity or for a term of years, any estate to the amount of 12,6707. per annum. Its present annual revenue exceeds 25,0007. This hospital consists of two small quadrangles, united by a cross building on arches, and contains about 700 beds for patients, together with a chapel, and convenient theatre, for chemical, medical, and anatomical lectures. There is also a small neat MAESHAL9EA AND QUEEN’S BENCH PBISONS. 163 edifice, behind the hospitals, for incurable lunatics. Over 100,000 persons are annually relieved here, either as in, or out-patients. Farther on, towards the south, on the east side of the Borough High-street is the Church of ST. GEORGE THE MARTTK, built in 1733-6, by John Price, on the site of a former edifice. In the Church¬ yard lies buried Edward Cocker, the writing-master aud author ofthe “ Arithmetic” (“ according to Cocker”); and here was married Lilly, the astrologer, to his master’s widow. If you wish to visit the low neighbourhood gene¬ rally known as the Mint in the Borough , you had better engage the services of a police-constable of the “ detective force.” Like the once notorious Alsatia, this district was a refuge for runaway debtors aud escaped felons ; and ever since the time of Jack Sheppard and Jonathan Wild it has retained a character for lawlessness and daring second to no refuge in London. It is at present a collection of ill- ventilated streets, principally inhabited by thieves. In High-street was to be seen, a few years since, THE HARSHALSEA PRISON, formerly “pertaining to the Marshals of England,” and one of the five great prisons of London in the reign of Queen Elizabeth— the Tower, the Marshalsea, the Fleet, the Compter, and the Gatehouse, in Westminster. The notorious Bishop Bonner died here, and was buried in the churchyard of St. George’s, Southwark. Here Christopher Brooke, the poet, was confined, for giving Ann More in marriage to Doctor Donne, without the consent of the lady’s father ; and here Wither wrote his best poem, “ The Shepherd’s Hunting.” On the right hand, proceeding to Newington¬ causeway is the QUEEN’S BENCH PRISON, within the rules of which died Kit Smart, the poet. To this prison (the Kiug’s Bench) was committed Henry, Prince of Wales, for insult¬ ing Judge Gascoigne; Baxter, for writing his “ Paraphrase on the New Testamenthere Haydon, while a prisoner, painted the “ Mock Election and William Combe wrote the once popular Adventures of Dr. Syntax. The date of the erection of this prison is unknown. The rules extended about a mile around the walls. The Queen's Bench prison, since the new Bankruptcy and Insolvency Acts, has hap¬ pily not been needed for debtors, and is now used as a military prison. Farther on, and just facing the new Drinking Fountain, a handsome structure, is THE ELEPHANT AND CASTLE, principally known as a starting-place for omnibuses for most parts of L ondon. m 2 164 METROPOLITAN TABERNACLE. In Newington Causeway, and Occupying a large space also in the New Kent-road, is the great drapery establishment of Messrs. Tarn, a palace in size and appearance, and one of the noticeable buildings in this neighbourhood. Oppo¬ site the Elephant and Castle, in Newington Butts , is Mr. Spurgeon’s METROPOLITAN TABERNACLE. — This edifice, which looks more like a Grecian temple than a modern place of worship, was opened in 1861 ; having been built by subscriptions obtained by the Rev. Mr. Spurgeon by preaching in the Surrey Music Hall, which was partially destroyed by fire, and has since been entirely renovated, and the grounds known as the “ Surrey Gardens” again opened as a place of amusement. The Tabernacle has a six column portico and is 145 feet long, 81 broad, 62 high. It is lighted by a lantern from above, as well as from the side windows. Two deep galleries run round the interior, which is somewhat in the style of a concert-room, with a raised platform instead of a pulpit. It is well adapted for hearing. There is room for 5000 persons seated, or 6500 sitting and standing. Passing down St. George’s-road, we come to ST. GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL, the metropolitan church of the Roman Catholic hierarchy. It stands in the St. George’s Fields, by a strange coincidence, the very spot where the No-Popery rioters, under Lord George Gordon, met ninety years ago to petition Parliament against the Papal aggressions of that day ! This, perhaps the largest Roman Catholic Church erected in Great Britain since the Reformation, was built by the late Mr. A. W. Pugin, in the decorated Gothicstyle, atan estimated cost of upwards of 100,000/. It will hold 3000 people ; and adjoining is a convent for Sisters of Mercy and a school for 300 children. It will well repay a visit. Eighty years since the neigh¬ bourhood hereabouts was literally fields. In the “ Re¬ jected Addresses” occur the lines— “ St. George’s Fields are fields no more ; The trowel supersedes the plough; Swamps, huge and inundate of yore, Are changed to civic villas now.” Close by is the madhouse, commonly called Bedlam, the proper appellation of which, however, is BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL.—It was founded in 1246, in Bishopsgate Without, by Simon Fitz-Mary, Sheriff of BEDLAM—THE OBELISK. 165 London, as a Priory, At tlie dissolution of religious houses Henry VJII. gaveitto the Corporation of London, who converted it into a hospital for lunatics. The old build¬ ing was taken down, and the hospital removed to Moor- Fields in 1675, which second building, after having cost 17,000/., was razed to the ground in 1814, and the institu¬ tion again removed to its present site, and a new wing erected in 1838 for 166 additional patients. James Lewis and Sidney Smirke were the architects. The whole build¬ ing, with the House of Occupation, covers an area of four¬ teen acres, and the annual expense incurred is upwards of 20,000/. There is accommodation for 375 patients ; and the modern plan of treatment by kindness instead of cruelty is fully carried out here. During the last century, Bedlam, like St. Paul’s, was an open exhibition, but now an order from a Governor is necessary before a visitor is admitted. Within these walls have been confined—“ the renowned porter of Oliver Cromwell, who had more volumes around his cell in the College of Bedlam than Orlando iu his present apartmentNat Lee, the drama¬ tic poet, spent four years here; and Peg Nicholson, the woman who tried to kill George III., died here in 1828 after a confinement of forty-two years ; Oxford, for shoot¬ ing at the Queen on Constitution-hill; and M’Naughten, another so-called lunatic, who shot Mr. Edward Drum¬ mond, Sir Robert’s secretary, in mistake for Sir Robert Peel himself. We now return to THE OBELISK, about which we have already spoken, and of which it is only necessary to say further, that it was erected in 1771, in commemoration of the patriotism of Brass Crosby, Lord Mayor of London. In the Borough are many old inns. Among them once stood the Tabard, from which Chaucer’s Canterbury Pilgrims set out. We must also mention Horsemonger- lane Gaol, in which Leigh Hunt was confined for two years for a libel on the Prince Regent in the Examiner newspaper, and in the front of which the miscreants Manning were executed; the British and Foreign School in the Borough-road, in which arc educated about a thousand boys and girls. Lying between the Walworth and Kennington Park roads are The Surrey Gardens, covering an area of about sixteen acres. These grounds have, as already stated, been re¬ opened occasionally for pleasure-gardens, with concerts, dramatic performances, and displays of fireworks. Philanthropic Institution, St. George’s-fields, for the 166 PHILANTHROPIC INSTITUTIONS AND ASYLUMS. industrial and religious training of youthful criminals. It was founded in 1783 ; and occupied a building here, but afterwards established a reformatory at Red-hill, near lleigate, in which the boys are taught farming. Nearly adjoining is the School for the Indigent Blind, founded in 1797, and supported by the contributions of the benevolent. The present building was erected in 1837. It contains about eighty inmates, who are instructed in reading by the sense of touch, and various useful arts, such as basket and mat making, by which they are enabled to earn their own living after leaving the Asylum. In the Blackfriars-road is the Surrey Theatre, destroyed by tire in 1865, and since handsomely rebuilt. It is now a spacious and remarkably well-conducted house. In the Southwark-bridge-road is the Evelina Hospital for Sick Children, a tine building erected and endowed in 1869, by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild. It is built “ in memoriam,” and is entirely devoted to the reception of sick children without reference to creed, one ward being reserved for Jewish patients, who have a separate kitchen and Jewish cooks for preparing their food. One remarkable feature of this admirable charity is a ward for patients suffering from “whooping cough.” It is managed by a committee of Jewish and Christian ladies ■who work harmoniously for the common good. In St. George’s-road are the King Edward’s Schools ; in Borough High-street, are the "Newcomen” endowed schools; in Elizabeth-street, Horslydown, are the Queen Elizabeth Free Grammar Schools; in Sumner-street, Southwark, is St. Saviour’s Grammar School; and in Blackfriars-road is the South London Working Men’s College, of which Professor Huxley is the Principal. In¬ deed, this transpontine district may be said to be famous for the foundation of various charitable institutions in its locality. It was here, near the Obelisk, that the Mag¬ dalen Hospital was built in 1769, a charity founded mainly through the exertions of the unfortunate Doctor Dodd. Here, too, was the Asylum for Female Orphans, established in 1758, and not far off were the Ireemasons’ Schools. The growth of London has, however, led to the removal of many of these institutions to a greater dis¬ tance in the country. In the Old Kent-road is the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, a large brick building; the society was insti¬ tuted in 1792, but the present edifice was not completed NEW CUT—LAMBETH PALACE. 16 ? till 1806. Here tlie dumb are not only educated, but also learn various mechanical arts, to enable them to obtain a living when discharged from the establishment. In Blackfriars-road is Rowland Hill’s Cliapel, erected in 1784, and once the most popular place of meeting for Protestant Dissenters in London. Opposite is the NEW CUT, which runs from the Blackfriars to the Waterloo-road, and is remarkable for the number of its brokers’ shops, which line both sides of the way, and in which may be bought and sold almost any con¬ ceivable article second-hand, from a watch-spring to a steam-engine, or a pocket-pistol to a piece of ordnance. Here is the Victoria Theatre, recently rebuilt, a very P opular, and usually a very well-managed house. n the Blackfriars-road, just at the foot of the bridge, is the Rotunda, in which Lawrence delivered his lectures on physiology. It is now used as a warehouse. Passing through Upper Ground-street and the Com¬ mercial-road, we arrive in the Waterloo-road, in which, nearly opposite St. John’s Church, a fine edifice built about fifty years ago, is the LONDON TERMINUS OF THE SOUTH-WEST¬ ERN RAILWAY, opened to the public in July, 1848. During the summer season excursions to Southampton, Salisbury, and other places are made almost daily. A ride on this railway will show you as much as you will care to see of this crowded and rather squalid neighbour¬ hood, and speedily carry you into the fields, out of the smoke of London. The Kennington-road leads direct to the Kennington Park (formerly the Common) and Kennington Oval, in which is the famous Surrey County Cricket Ground. In Kennington-lane is that admirable charity, the Licensed Victuallers' Asylum. Proceeding onwards through a crowded neighbourhood, abounding in potteries and manufactories, we come to LAMBETH PALACE, the London residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It is an irregular pile of building, on the south bank of the Thames, almost oppo¬ site the New Houses of Parliament. Having been erected at different periods, it displays various kinds of architec¬ ture : a considerable portion having been built as far back as the thirteenth century. The corners of the edifice are faced with rustic work ; and the top surrounded with battlements. In the banqueting-room, which has an old caryed ceiling, are portraits of all the primates 168 LAMBETH PALACE—THE RIVER. from Laud to the present time. Juxon’s-hall (a noble room), forming part of the old palace, has been converted into a library, which was founded by Archbishop Bancroft, and increased at successive periods by Archbishops Abbot, Juxon, Laud, Shelden, Tenison, and Seeker, till the number of volumes now exceeds 20,000. An order from the Archbishop or the Lords of the Treasury will admit the student to a view of the library. The chapel, erected in the twelfth century, contains the remains of Archbishop Parker; and in the vestry are portraits of several bishops. The Lollards’-tower, at the western extremity of the chapel, contains a small room wains¬ coted with oak, on which are inscribed several names and portions of sentences in ancient characters ; and the walls are furnished with large rings, to which the Lollards, and other persons confined for heretical opi¬ nions, are supposed to have been affixed. In the grounds, which are tastefully laid out, are two fig-trees of extra¬ ordinary size, said to have been planted by Cardinal Pole, about the year 1558. A new Gothic wing was added by Dr. Howley, from the designs of Mr. Blore ; and the domestic portion of the Palace greatly enlarged. The old church of St. Mary lies close to the Palace; near which a noted promenade called the Bishop’ s-wa/k faced the Thames. And here, politest of visitors, we leave you to ponder over the memorials of past times ; persuaded that, having accompanied us thus far, you will have patience with us yet a little longer while we take a trip down the river. WINDSOR TO RAMSGATE, BY THE R1YER. The Thames—Eton—Windsor—Windsor Castle— Windsor Park and Forest—Hampton Court— KlNGSTON-UPON-TnAMES—BUSHEY PARK—-RICHMOND —Kew— Twice enh am—Greenwich—Blackheath —Woolwich—Gravesend—Rochester and Chat¬ ham—Herne Bay, Margate, and Ramsgate. “ Noble Thames, whilst I can hold a pen, I will divulge thy glory unto men.” Taylor, the “ Water Poet." THE THAMES is the noblest river in England, and certainly the most thoroughly useful river in Europe, and perhaps the most important commercial river in the THE EIVEE, A GOSSIP ABOUT. 3.69 world. Though for many years converted into a mere common sewer for the great metropolis, the new system of main drainage has certainly made it comparatively pure, from Greenwich to Hampton Court, between which and Chelsea it is a lovely flowery stream, with picturesque views on its banks, beautiful little islets here and there, and pleasant glimpses of home scenery, which in its way is altogether cheering. The Thames takes its rise in Gloucestershire, and passing Windsor, Hampton Court, Twickenham, Richmond, Fulham, and Chelsea, reaches London; thence seaward it washes the shores of Greenwich, Gravesend, &c., and falls into the English channel about sixty miles from the Old Tower and Billingsgate. As we said, at Hampton Court the Thames is a clear and beautiful river. As the placid stream flows on we follow it in fancy, till it rushes through ill-shaped bridges and wooden locks, and becomes less and less clear; till at last its sides are lined with wharves, and railway stations, and huge prisons, and hospitals, and houses, and workshops, and little towns, with here and there a field between. Crowded steamers ply to and fro with their living cargoes; and little boats cross and re¬ cross, and four-oared cutters pass us swiftly by, im¬ pelled by manly arms; on one hand the fine new range of St. Thomas’s Hospital and Lambeth Palace, an old and stately building, look down upon the stream ; and on the other the Houses of Parliament, already dimmed with smoke and dust, present themselves to view ; then a mighty bridge crosses the stream, and swift trains glide from shore to shore, supported by its huge bulk; and then, the stream more turbid, and the air more close, and the steamboats in greater numbers, several houses, dark and dirty, still to be seen spoiling the effect of the broad highway of the great Thames Embankment, which should soon be com¬ pleted on both sides of the stream, and be known as Thames-way; and smoky clouds upon the air and in the sky ; and great lumbering barges filled with coal go slowly past, or lie beside the shore ; and the officers of the Thames police keep a bright look out for “ water rats,” though their station is now on shore instead of afloat; and high steeples and dark houses ; and noise and bustle, and dirt and smoke, and business and pleasure; and industry and idleness; and meanness and wealth, grandeur and poverty ; state barges ; and gardens and gas-works; and fire-engines and cleansing 170 GOSSIP ABOUT THE RIVER. apparatus; and crowds of fishing-boats; and all the thousand sights and sounds of a great city, and lo ! wc are in London! boastful, beautiful, dirty, despised, proud, petty, rich, unhealthy, close, fetid, prison-Uke— yet spacious, crowded, careless, and wealthy London; the wonder of the age, and the pride of the world ! Hark how the roar of its thousand streets comes booming over the quiet water. Look all around and view the various contrivances for business and pleasure, money-making and money-spending, and wonder at the inconsistencies of the giant place. What a contrast does it not present to the quiet scene we left at Hampton Court, and yet the two are scarcely twenty miles apart! And so the river flows on; away, away; out among the fields and far from town; and the tall spars of a thousand ships, in docks and by wharves, and lying in mid-stream, are glistening in the sun, and peace and brightness brood upon the waters. How pleasant, too, to stand upon the bridge, and, leaning idly over, gaze into the “silent highway” flowing far beneath ! And weary men come close beside you, and resting their heavy burdens on the edge, look down upon the stream, and think there must he something pleasant in lying idly upon a coal-sack and smoking a pipe in the sunny air. And others, pale women, sometimes with burdens heavier far to bear, speculate upon the depth of the still waters, and only wait till night; and when the turbid stream is rushing through the bridges and past the quiet houses, and far off into its eternity, the sea, it bears upon its bosom a ghastly freight! But away with sombre thoughts ; the sun is shining, and the clear morning air looks glad and bright ? Gay parties of pleasure are making their way to steamboat piers, and bustle and confusion reigns supreme ; and the roaring, sputtering, tearing, noisy, impatient steamers seem in such haste to go upon their way, as scarcely to allow time for the crowds of young and gay, and old and jolly, to get on board and start. And then what light and joyous laughter floats upon the air; and rustling silks, and pretty feet, and impatient faces; and delicate forms, are squeezed and hustled for a moment, till they find themselves fairly on board the boat—then hie for Richmond. Richmond, famed through all the world for beautiful views and high prices ; a splendid park and dear hostel- ETON—WINDSOR. 171 ries, one of which has only recently been burnt down. What pleasant afternoon rambles have we not taken in that famed old park ! and Hampton Court, too ; and Busliey-park. But back to the world of care and trouble we must come, despite our dreams. Rare old river, that carries daily, all the summer months, such freights of smiling faces and gladsome hearts: a benison upon thy waters. Despite the still murky stream and, till lately, neglected banks, cheap steamers still ply upon its surface, and carry the weary, labour-worn mechanic, and the pale, thoughtful student, the fagged and listless clerk, and the tired shopman, and the footsore traveller, and the overworked sempstress, and the labourers and the pleasure-seekers, to look upon the green Helds, and dream of love and pleasure far away. Having gossiped thus far of the river itself, we may now say a word or two of the principal places worth seeing on its banks. We started from Windsor, which may be reached from London by the South-Western and Great Western Rail¬ ways ; but certainly not by water in anything larger than a wherry. If we go by the iron road, we pass Ealing, Han- well (notice the Lunatic Asylum), Southall, WestDrayton, Langley, jind Slough, and enter the royal town by way of ETON.—This town consists of one long straggling street, on the right bank of the Thames, opposite Windsor, from which it is divided by a handsome bridge. Eton is chiefly remarkable for its noble college, founded by Henry VI. in 1446. It is a favourite place of preliminary instruction for the sons of the nobility and gentry, having about 750 pupils, of whom a tithe are foundation scholars. The college is richly endowed; and here Walpole, Bolingbroke, Fielding, Gray, Porson, Chatham, Fox, and Wellington were schoolboys. WINDSOR is divided into the Old and the New Town, the two being separated by the old Roman road from Silchester. It lias about 10,000 inhabitants, and returns a member to Parliament. Windsor has a fine town- hall, a neat market-place, several good churches and chapels, a theatre, barracks for infantry, a good hospital, and several well-appointed hotels. During the Saxon dynasty a palace existed in Old Windsor ; but the royal residence was removed to its present locality by William the Conqueror, who may be considered the founder of WINDSOR CASTLE.—Since the time of the Normans, 172 WINDSOR CASTLE—STATE APARTMENTS. however, the Castle has had various alterations, improve¬ ments, and embellishments from successive monarchs. Our kings have always made Windsor Castle their principal residence ; and of all the “ homes of England,” it is perhaps the most worthy the principal personage in the realm. The state-rooms of the Castle are open by tickets, which can be had of local booksellers, or at the Castle. They are available for Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, ana Friday : the days and times during which visits are permitted are mentioned on the tickets, and it is contrary to Her Majesty’s commands that payment for or in reference to them be made. Visitors are only admitted during the absence of the Court, and to the private apart¬ ments only by special order from the Lord Chamberlain. The suite of State Apartments in Windsor Castle to which the Queen has been graciously pleased to permit the free admission of the public, consists of the following rooms:—The Queen’s Audience Chamber, hung with Gobelins tapestry ; the Old Ball-room, or Vandyck Hoorn, so called from the twenty-two portraits by that master ; the Queen’s State Drawing Hoorn, or Zuccarelli Hoorn, containing nine large paintings by that artist; the State Ante-Room, the ceiling of which is painted by Verrio ; the Grand Vestibule, with the colossal marble statue of George IV. by Sir Francis Chantrey; the Waterloo Chamber, with its thirty-eight fine portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence and Sir Martin Archer Shee; the Presence Chamber, a gorgeous room, with some fine Gobelins tapestry; St. George’s Hall, an immense apart¬ ment, in which is the Queen’s Throne; the Guard Chamber, glittering with arms and emblems ; and the Queen’s Presence Chamber. The access to the State Apartments is by the entrance under a small Gothic porch adjoining King John’s Tower, exclusively appropriated to this purpose. After passing through these, the visitor again reaches the small ante-room at the head of the stairs, on de¬ scending which is seen a portrait of Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, Kt., the architect under whose skilful management the repairs and alterations contemplated, and for the most part planned, by King George IV., were conducted. The portrait is from the pencil of Sir Thomas Lawrence, the then President of the Royal Academy, and was painted by command of the monarch under whom the architect began his extensive operations. For gorgeous furniture and bedizenment, fine paintings and royal trappings, there is WINDSOR PARK—HAMPTON COURT. 173 no place in Great Britain can excel Windsor Castle. But vou must not omit a visit to WINDSOR PARK AND FOREST, where, in the abandonment of leisure, you may revel to your heart’s content in the green luxury of nature; and, yielding to the influences of the place, exclaim with Shakspeare’s Henry VI. .— “ O God ! me thinks it were a happy life To be no better than a homely swain.” Or giving your fancy full sway, you may recollect, and almost realize, the legend of Herne the Hunter, in this same old forest, and call up reminiscences of poetry and romance, forgotten, haply, years ago. The Great Park comprises about 3800 acres, well stocked witli deer and other royal game, and the forest is about 56 miles in circumference. You should, while here, stroll through the Long Walk, and visit Virginia Water, with its sham ruins and beautiful scenery. HAMPTON COURT.—This splendid mansion, now the residence of decayed nobles and court pensioners, was built by Cardinal Wolsey, though little remains of the original palace, the three large quadrangles of Grecian architecture having been erected for William III., by Sir C. Wren. In the state-rooms, open daily from 2 to 4 in winter, and from 2 to 6 in summer, without charge, were some of Raffaelle’s unrivalled cartoons; these have been removed to South Kensington; but there remains a large collection of paintings, chiefly portraits, by Holbein, Van- dyck, Kneller, and West. The palace is of red brick, with stone facings and decorations, and a painted ceiling by Verrio. It has been an occasional royal residence between the reigns of Henry VIII. and George II., and boasts one of the most beautiful gardens and parks within what may be called a horse-ride of London. Here, among the sculpture, fountains, and vases, you will not fail to notice the splendid vine, said to be the largest in Europe, and the far-famed Maze, in which, if you have ladies in the party, you may amuse yourself for an hour at least. The population of Hampton is about 5000 ; the park is live miles in circumference, and well stocked with deer, and the walks about the neighbourhood may be designated as superb. A good and tolerably cheap dinner may be had at the : hotel just outside the gates of the palace ; though the numerous parties from London commonly pic- 174 KINGSTON-UPON-THAMES—RICHMOND. nic in the park, or in the numerous private houses de¬ voted to tne purposes of such accommodation. Close ^KINGSTON-UPOX-THAMES, a pretty little town, built at the influx of the Ewell on tne east bank of the Thames. It extends half a mile along the banks of the river, which is here crossed by a noble stone bridge of five arches. This townis noticeable as having been originally a Roman station, and, at a later period, the place of coronation of our Saxon kings, from Edward tne Elder to Ethelred the Unready. In 838 Egbert held a general ecclesiastical council here; and during the Parliamentary war, the first armed force of the Parliament assembled, and the last expiring efforts of the ill-advised Charles were made in this town. In the market-place you will notice the lately erected monument to the memory of our Saxon kings. Kingston-upon-Railway is a hamlet which has sprung up round the station of the South-Western Railway. It contains many handsome houses, a fine church, some good libraries, and a capital inn, where you may dine for a shilling or a guinea ! Adjoining Hampton Court is the royal demesne called BUSHEY PARK.—Here, in the area of 1100 acres, may be seen one of the most superb avenues of limes and chestnuts in the world. It forms the public road through the Park, the house in which was one of the favourite residences of William IV. Kew, Richmond, Twickenham, and Kingston may be reached by rail from Waterloo, or from any station on the Broad-street (North London) line, or by steamer; there is also a steamboat goes occasionally, when the tide serves, to Hampton Court. To the three first-named places the water excursion is delightful; to the last, the ride through Bushey Park and Kingston is generally preferred. In the summer season, vans and omnibuses and gigs and go-carts proceed to Hampton every day ; and it is pleasant to see that even to the very poor the doors of this royal palace are thrown open without charge. The fares, by steamer or rail, seldom exceed a shilling to either of these places. RICHMOND.—This has been happily designated the Tivoli of England. From the noble park and hill some of the most exquisite landscape scenery to be found in England may be discerned ; and on a fine day KEW GARDENS—TWICKENHAM. 175 in summer a distant view of the Castle of Windsor may be distinctly discovered. A walk in this splendid, well- wooded park, with its dells and grassy knolls, and herds of deer, and myriads of birds warbling on the waving trees, will well repay any trouble the visitor may have taken in getting there. Richmond may boast the honour, if honour it be, of having been the death-place, as Green¬ wich was the birthplace, of “ Good Uueen Bess.” In those days, in consequence of the badness of the roads and uncertain temper of the populace, the river was as much entitled to be called the “ silent highway ” as at pre¬ sent ; and, as far as the conveyance of royalty and nobility goes, more so. Henry VII., from whose paternal earl¬ dom in Yorkshire the town derived its name, also died here. There are many handsome hotels and villa re¬ sidences facing the river. A peculiar kind of cheese¬ cakes, called “Maids of Honour,” are among the delicacies of .Richmond pastrycooks. KEW.—This pretty little village is connected by a handsome stone bridge with Brentford; it is about seven miles from London, and contains a population of less than a thousand. But the chief attraction lies in its splendid Botanic Gardens, which are maintained at the' national cost, and form part of the grounds belonging to the royal palace, once the favourite residence of George III., and many members of the royal family, especially' the late King of Hanover. Kew Gardens contain, per¬ haps, the most splendid collection of plants in the world ; and the Palm-house, 360 feet long by 90 wide, is the largest glass building in the world— except the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. A day may be well spent here. Admission is free, but it is necessary you should be there before three in the afternoon. It is not our intention to describe the wonders of the gardens—the splendid gigantic Victoria Regia lily, the noble series of palms, orchidae, pelargoniums, roses, and evergreens, the flora of every land and clime; for our time and space would not permit so large a digression. Opposite Richmond, on the west bank of the Thames, is the village of TWICKENHAM.—The place is pleasantly dull and old-fashioned, but on the banks of the river are some very handsome houses. Here you may see Strawberry Hill, once the residence of the dilettante Horace Walpole, and now occupied by Lady Waldegrave. Near at hand is the site of Pope’s famous villa; and if you are foud of 176 BEIEGES OVEB THE THAMES. eel-pies and pie-nics, you may pass an hour very pleasantly at Twickenham Ait, a little islet near here. In our way from Hampton Court to London we have E assed through various bridges, some of them new and andsome, belonging to the several railways that cross the Thames. A note of these and of the places near them on either side may not be uninteresting. Good fishing may be had above Hammersmith, and especially in the neighbourhood of Richmond, Isleworth, and Sion House. Angling from the banks or from punts is al¬ lowed, except in the months of March, April, and May. Barbel and dace may be caught in the preserved water above Richmond Bridge from the middle of August to the end of October. Hampton Court is joined to Moulseybyanewiron bridge in place of the old wooden one. Above Hampton are the pretty villages of Sunbury, Chertsey, Staines, and Hatchet. At the latter place, where Sbakspeare gave Falstaff a ducking, there is now a station of the Staines, Richmond, and Windsor Railway. Richmond Bridge is a stone structure of no great im¬ portance, though it looks well from the river, and has on one side a pretty walk and on the other the beautiful gTeen meadows. Kew Bridge was built in 1789, and is of stone, with seven arches. It joins Kew to Brentford. Hammersmith Suspension Bridge joins Hammersmith to Barnes. The bridge was built in 1S27 from the design of Mr. T. Clarke. It is an elegant structure, and was the first bridge of the kind erected over the Thames. Putney Bridge connects Putney with Fulham, in which is the palace of the Bishop of London. Bishop’s TT-ilk is one of the most picturesque near London. The Palace Garden has some fine trees, and the village contains a pretty church, rebuilt not long ago. Cremorne Railway Bridge, completed for the West London Line, need, only be mentioned; you now come to Cremorne Gardens, one of the most popular places of summer amusement in London. It has fireworks, statues, and various ornamental buildings, with a theatre, a dining hall, and a good concert room. The entertain¬ ments consist of music, ballet, fireworks, &c. It is, of course, the resort for a motley crowd of pleasure seekers, and is generally open in the summer months. Jt may be reached by omnibuses from all parts of town, 1. London Bridge. 2. Southwark Bridge. Waterloo Bridge. 5. Hungerford Bridge. Vauxhal) Bridge. 3. Blackfnais Bridge 6. Westminster Bridge. Hammersmith Bridge THE BRIDGES, AND THE SIGHTS FROM THEM. 177 and by steamboats from London Bridge and intermediate piers. Then there are Battersea, Albert, and Chelsea Bridges, the latter an elegant iron structure on the suspension principle, by Mr. Thomas Page, the architect of the new bridge at Westminster. A toll of a halfpenny is exacted from foot passengers. On Sundays it is free. Chelsea steamers convey passengers to the Park and beautiful Botanical Gardens at Battersea. Admission free. Vauxhall Bridge consists of nine arches of cast-iron, each with a span of 78 feet, and an average rise of 114 feet. It was completed, from the design of Mr. Walker, in 1816. Hence we get glimpses of beautiful streets on the Middlesex side, and of St. Mary's Church. From Yauxhall Bridge may be seen on the one side, the South-Western Railway, the Water-works, Battersea- park, a well laid-out and excellent pleasure-ground, and the Victoria or Pimlico Bridge. On the other, are Cubitt’s campanile tower and workshops ; the Chelsea Botanical Gardens, founded by Sir Hans Sloane, with their tine cedars of Lebanon ; Cheyne-walk, Cadogan- pier, and St. Luke’s Church. Cheyne-icalk, facing the river, was once a fashionable promenade, and is still a pleasant place, with trees and numerous good old- fashioned houses and shops. Chelsea buns are sold at numerous places in the neighbourhood, and several good streets lead to the west-end. Lambeth Bridge consists of wrought-iron plates, sus¬ pended by wire ropes—a not very handsome structure. Westminster Bridge has already been described. From it may be seen, on the Middlesex side, the Houses of Parliament, St. John’s Church, the Horseferry, the Mill- bank Penitentiary, Richmond-terrace, and various line houses. Among the latter is Montague House, the newly erected mansion, in Scotch Gothic, of the Duke of Buc- cleuch. On the other side are St. Thomas’s Hospital aud Astlcy’s Amphitheatre, already mentioned. Hungerford Suspension Bridge has been superseded by a railway bridge for the Charing-Cross branch of the South-Eastern Railway. For the purposes of the railway the whole of the space hitherto used as Hunger- ford Market has been absorbed. A toll is demanded from foot passengers over a new bridge which accommodates pedestrians. The bridge joins the Strand to York and Westminster roads. From Hungerford Bridge may N 178 THE BBIDGES, AND THE SIGHTS FBOH THEM. be seen, on the north, Scotland-yard, the head quarters of the Metropolitan Police, Wliitehall-place and the Horse Guards, Privy Gardens, Montague House, Richmond- terrace, and the Board of Control; while on the south are tlie high Shot Towers, the great factory of the Messrs. Maudsley, and the southern shore of the river soon to be completed with the new portion of the Thames embank¬ ment. Waterloo Bridge comes next. This handsome bridge was said by Canova, the sculptor, to be the finest work of the kind in the world ; and by Baron Dupin, it was called a “ colossal monument worthy of Sesostris and the Cessars.” This bridge is the property of a private com¬ pany, and from foot passengers a toll of a halfpenny is exacted. It was built from the designs of John Rennie, who, though only the son of an East Lothian farmer, proved himself equal to the greatest engineering under¬ takings in Europe, having constructed many large docks, and the Breakwater at Plymouth. It cost upwards of 1,000,000/., and was opened to the public on June 18, 1817—the second anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo. Its length is 2456 feet, including the approaches; and the road and footways are entirely level with the Strand. Having hurried on, we stop a moment at the Temple Tier, at the finest part of the New Embankment, which gives us an opportunity of admiring the Temple Gardens, one of the most agreeable promenades in the City. This, as well as the Adelphi and Somerset House terraces, was built in anticipation of the long- deferred embankment of the Thames. From Waterloo Bridge we get a good view of the river¬ front of Somerset House, Lancaster-place, and the Sai-oy, Westminster Abbey, and the Adelphi. On the Surrey shore observe the two tall Shot Totcers, Goding's Brewery, surmounted by a lion; and beyond, the breezy Surrey hills. Blael;friars Bridge and Pier come next. The railway bridge of the London, Chatham, and Dover line crosses the river close to the fine new bridge of Blackfriars which, with the Holborn Viaduct, was the greatest public work of 1869. Hence may be seen St. Faul’s and the City churches, the roofs of various large buildings, the City Gasworks, the spire of St. Bride’s, with the low wharves and more prominent buildinsrs on fhe other side. Southwark Bridge and Pier are next in order, cast- JOUENEY DOWN THE EIVEE. 179 ward. There are many sights and sounds peculiar to the River Thames, not the least singular of which are the multitudes of craft of all descriptions, and the regu¬ larity, not to say apparent apathy, with which business of all kinds appears to be conducted. An immense improvement has been effected in landing from the river steamboats at the Thames Embankment by its various piers between Westminster and Black- friars. We now rapidly approach the Old Swan Pier, and then reach London Bridge .—This noble bridge, as already stated, is situated at the eastern extremity of Gracechurch- street and King William-street, and connects the City of London with the Borough of Southwark. It consists of live immense semi-elliptical arches, exceeding in extent of span those of any other stone-bridge in Europe. It is free of toll, and is the most frequented of any of the London bridges. From London Bridge the scene is unique. On one side we have the Monument, Billings¬ gate, the great metropolitan fish-market, the rebuilding of which was completed last year, the Custom House and pier, the Tower and Docks, and a perfect forest of masts; w-hile on the Surrey shore may be observed the great warehouses for the storage of all kinds of produce, Barclay and Perkins’ brewery, St. Saviour's and St. Olave’s Churches, the great stations of the Brighton and South-Eastern Railways, St. Paul’s, and a larger number of church spires than is visible from one spot in any other part of the world. The best time to see Billingsgate 3IarJcet is very early in the morning, when the scene is exceedingly character¬ istic. The fish ordinary dinner close by was once cele¬ brated, but we do not greatly commend it. Further east we have— MIDDLESEX SIDE. Billingsgate Market, p. 145 Coal Exchange, p. 144 Custom House, p. 144 The Tower, p. 141 St. Katherine's Docks, p. 14G London Docks, p. 14G Tunnel Railway, p. 150 SUBSET SIDE. St. Olave’s Church, Colton’s- ■5 and other wharves, p. 161 P South-Eastern, Brighton, and t. North-KentRailways,p.l61 a, Rotherhithe Church, p. 161 a. P THAMES TUNNEL RAILWAY. N 2 ISO PLACES ON EITHER SIDE THE EIVEE FEOM LONDON. MIDDLESEX SIDE. SURREY SIDE. London Docks, Eastern En¬ trance, p. 140 Kegent’s Canal and Basin, p. He Grand Surrey Docks and Canal, p. 149 Commercial Docks and Pier, p. 14S South Dock Canal, p. 146 Isle of Dogs, p. 149 Steam Engine Manufactory. Iron Ship Building Co. East I'erry, p. 148 West India Docks, p. 148 Whitebait Houses, Blackwall. — Brunswick Pier, p. 149 2 ja Blackwall Railway, p. 149 5 § East India Docks and Mast- * house. W Victoria London Docks, p. 149 North Woolwich Gardens, Hotel, and Pier, p. 183 tc-d Barking and Dagenham. § « l’urfleet, and Powder Maga- ^ M zines. cj E £ O CJ O —I Cs West Thurrock. Grays. Tilbury Fort. Ej E • , s.w. Charles I., Statue of, 90 Chancery-lane, 79, E c. Charter House,72,18S.E.C. Chatham, 186 Chelsea, 27, 177 Chertsey, 176 Chesterfield IIouse,133, w. Cheapside, 67, E.C. Christ Hospital, 93, E.C. Christ Church, 93, E.c. Christian Knowledge So¬ ciety, 189, w.C. Churches, listof the prin¬ cipal, 192 City Boundary in Hol- born, 99, E.C. City of Loudon School 1S9, E.C. City of London Theatre 53, N.E. City Companies, list principal, 194 Civil Government of Me¬ tropolis, 61 Clare-market, 82, w.c. Clarges-street, 126, w. Clerkenwe)l,27, 97, e.c. 200 INDEX. Clement Danes,St.,81,w.C. Cloth-fair, 1S9, e.c. Club Chambers, 124, s.w. Club-houses, principal.121 Cobham, 184 [s.w. Cockspur-street, 90, 119, Colosseum, 182, N.w. Commons, House of. 112, [s.w. Compter in Poultry,66 ,e.c. Commercial - road - east, 151, B. [N.E. Commercial-street, 155, Commercial-docks,147.S.E. Comparison with other cities, 25 Constitution-hill, ill, 12.8, Conservative Club,12i.s.w. Cornhill, 187. e.c. [w.c. Coll, of Physicians, 93 College or Surgeons, 100 1 Conveyances, 31 Covent-garden Theatre, 53, 87, w.c. Covent-garden Market, 86, w.c. Courts of Law at West¬ minster, 113, S.w. Coventry-house, 127 Cremorne Gardens, 49, 176, S.w. [121. s.w. CrimeanMonument.West. Grosby-hall and square, 8, 140. E.C. Crystal Palace, 49,182, S.E. Cumberland, Duke of, Statue. 105 Curtain Theatre, 154 Custom-house, 14i. e. Danish Church, 1S9. e. Dark places and mysteries Datchet, 176 [20 Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 166 , s.w. Dean’s-yard, 117, s.w. Devonshire House, 133, w. Dining-roorns, 47 Diorama, 182. N.w. Docks, the, 147, e. Doctors ’Commons. 76, E.c. Dover-street, 126, w. Dreadnought, the, 1S1, S.E. Drinking Fountain, the first, 97, E.C. Drury-lane, 27. w.c. [w.c. Drury-lane Theatre, 53, Dulwich Gallery and Col¬ lege, 49.191, S. [E.c. Dunstan’s, St..Church, 7S, East India House (Old), 140, E.C. EastandWestlndiaDocks, 14S, E. Eastern-Counties Rail¬ way, 154, N.B. Economic Geology, Mu¬ seum of, 126, w. Edgware Road, 106, w. Egyptian Hall, 49,125, w. Elephant and Castle, 163,s. Electric Telegraph Com¬ pany, 139, E.C. Ely-place, Holborn,9S.E.C. EudowedHospitals.list of, Eton, 171 1195 Euston-square, 1S9, N.w. Evans’s Grand Hotel, 86, [w.c. Exchange, Royal, 51,59, e.c. Exchequer Office, ill,s.w. Execution Dock, 190, E. Exeter Hall, 86, w.c. Exhibitions,amusements, &c., 48, et seq. Eyre Arms, 133, N.w. Fares for Cabs, 37, et seq. Farringdon-st., 77, 97, E.c. Fashion and Poverty, 23, et seq. [ 166 , s.E. Female Orphan Asylum, Females,Refuge for. 195, N. Fenchurch-street, 140,E.C. Fetter-lane, 79, E.c. Finsbury, 27.139, E.C. Fishmongers’Hall,101,E.C. Five Fields, 190, s.w. Fleet Prison, 77 Foster-lane, 92, e.c. Founders’ Court, 139, E.C. Foundling Hospital, 190 Furnival’s Inn, 98, E.C. Fleet-street. 7S, e.c. Flower Market, 86, w.c. Freeman’s-court, 137, e.c. Freemat .as’ School, 166 , [S.E. Freemasons’ Hall,190.w.c. French Protestant Chur¬ ches, 92,190 Gallery of Illustration, 49,123, s.w. Garrick Club, 121, S.w. George III., Statues of, 84, 120 George IT., Equestrian Statue, SS [161, s.w. George’s, St., Cathedral, George, St., Hanover-sq., 105, w. George the Martyr, St., 163, s.E. George’s, St., Hospital, 127, w. Giltspur-street, 95, E.c. Coding’s Brewery, 17S Gog and Magog, 71 Golden-square. 190, w. Goldsmiths’ hall, 92, E.c. Goodman’s-flelds. 190. E. Gordon-square, 105, W.C. Gracechurch - street, 141, [E.C. Grand Surrey Canal, 147 Gravesend, 1SS Gray’s Inn, 99. w.C. Gray’s Inn-lane, 99, E.C. Great Russell-street, 87, Great Russell-street, Bloomsbury, 49, 101, Great St. Helen’s, 140, e.c. Great Western Railway, 194, w. Greenwich : Hospital, Park, &c., 181, S.E. Green-Arbour-court, 190, Green Park, 128, s.w. [E.c. Gresham Grasshopper and Bow Dragon, 70 Grosvenor House and Square, 184, w. Grub-street. 190. E.C. Guards’ Club, 122, s.w. Guards’ Memorial, 121, [s.w, Guilford-street, 27, w.c. Guildhall, 48, 70, B.c. Guy’s Hospital, 162, S.E. Hammersmith - bridge. 176, s.w. [n.w. Hampstead Heath, 132, Hampton Court, 173 , s.w. Hanover-square, 105, ,W. Harley-street, 105, w. Hatton-garden, 98, e.c. Havelock’s Statue,88,w.c. Haymarket, 54.119, s.w. Heads of Traitors on Temple-bar, 80 Her Majesty’s Theatre 54,119, s.w. Heralds’College, 76, E.C. Herne Bay, 186 High Holborn. 99, W.C. Highbury Barn, 50, N. Highgate. 157, N. Historical Introduction 1. et seq. Holborn Bars, 99. E.C. Holborn Hill. 97, E.c. Holborn Viaduct, 98 Holford House, 134, s.w. Holidays at Public Offices 199 Holland House, 135, w. Holloway, 157, N. Home Office, ill, s.w. Horse Guards, 110, s.w. Horseraonger-lane Gaol, 165, s. Horticultural Gardens & Conservatory, 130, w. Hospitals and Charities, listof Principal, 195 Hotels, List of. 45 et seq. Houses of Parliament, 49,112, S.w. House of Correction, Clerkenwell, 99, E.c. IIound8ditch, 155, E. How best to see London,20 Hoxton, 27, 140,156, N. Hungerford New Bridge. 177, w.c. Hyde-park, 106,128, w. Indian Museum, 50, w. Infant Orphan Asylum Wanstead, 190, e. Ingress Abbey, 184 Inns of Court, 27, SO, 95 i Inner Temple, 79, e.c. , Isle of Dogs, 27,14S, B. ! Islington, 156, N. [S.w. I Italian Opera House, 87 1 Ivy-lane. 93, E.c. James II., Statue of, 108 James’s, St., Church, 124 i James’s, St., Hall, 89,124 125 James’s, St., Palace, 122 James’s, St., Park, 109, w. James’s, St., Street, 122,w. ; James’s, St., Theatre, 54 123, W. Jermyn Street, 126, w. | Jewin Street, 93, B.c. INDEX, 201 Johnson’s Court, 79, E.C. J ohn’s, St., Wood, 132, N.w. Junior U. Service Club, 122, s.w. Katherine’s, St., Docks, 146, E.C. Katherine’s, St., Church, 132, N.w. KenningtonParkOval,119, 167, 8. Kensal-green Cemetery, 190, w. Kensington Gardens and Palace, 51,130, w. Kentish Town, 20, 191, Kew, 175,176, w. [n.w. King’s College,81,191,w.c. King’s-cross, 99, N. Kingston, 174, s.w. King-street, Cheapside, 70, E.C. King-street, St. James’s, 123, s.w. King’s Mews, 90 King’s-road, 98, w.c. King William-street, 141, 100, E.C. Knightsbridge, 130, s.w. La - Belle - Sauvage- yard, 77, E.C. Lambeth Palace, 27,167, S. Langham-place, 125, s.w. Lansdowne House, 131, [w. Law Institution, 99, E. Law Life Assurance Office, 80, E.C. Law & University Terms, 199 Leadenhall-st. & Market, 140, E.C, Lea River, 191 Leather-lane, 98, E.C. Leicester-square, 130, w.c. Leonard’s, St., Church, Shoreditch, 154, E. Limehouse Church, 151, E. Lincoln’s-inn, 98, w.c. Lincoln’s-inn-flelds, 100 Linnman Society, 50. w.c. Little Britain, 90, E.C. Lombard-street, 141 ; E.C. London Bankers, list of, 196. E.C. [E.C. London-bridge, 160,179, London Docks, 146, e.c. London Hospital, 150, E. London Institution, 140, [E.C. London Female Peniten¬ tiary, 195, N. [w.c. London U ni versity, 84, 101 , London Police, 103 Long-acre, 191, w.c. [e.c. Long-room, Customs, ill, Lora’s Cricket Ground, 133 N.W. Lothbury, 139, E.C. Lowther Arcade, 87, W.C. Ludgate-hill, 77, b.c. Lyceum Theatre, 53, 81, Lyon’s-inn,83, E.c. [W.C. Main Thoroughfares, 21, Manchester-sq., 191. w.c. Mansion House, 50,01, E.c. M mufacturing Districts, 27 Marble Arch, 100, w. Markets, list of, 194 Mark-lane, 141, E.c. [W.C. Mary-le-StrandL St., 83, Mary-le-Bow, St., 70, E.c. Marylebone, 191, w. Mary lebone Theatre, 54, w. Margaret’s, St., Church, Lothbury, 139, e.c. [s w. Marlborough House, 121, Marslialsea Prison, 103, [S.E. Margaret’s, St., Church, Westminster, 112,115 Margate & Ramsgate, 187 Martin’s,St.,in-tlie-Fields 72, 88, w.c. Martin’s, St., le-Grand, 72 91 E.C. May Fair, 192, w. [W.C. Mendicity Society, 192, Merchant Tailors’ School, 192, E.C. Metropolis, Government of, 04, et seq. Metropolitan Cattle Mar¬ ket, 90, N. [44 Metropolitan Railway, 43, Metropolitan Tabernacle, 164, S.E. [E.c. Michael’s, St., Church,129, Middle Temple. 80, E.c. Mildred’s, St., in Poultry, 67, E.c. Millbank Penitentiary, 118 , s.w. Mile-end, 153, E. Military and Maval Club, 121 , s.w. Mincing-lane, 141, E.C. Minories, 157, e. Mint, Royal, 51,140, E. Mint, in the Borough, 104, s.E. [s.w. Montagu House, 135, 172, Monument, the, 50, 101, Moorfields, 192, e.c. [e.c. Moorgate-street, 140, E.c. Museums, 49 et seq. Museum, British, Con- tents, 101 , w.c. [s.w. National Gallery, 60, 89, National Life Boat Insti¬ tution, 85 Napier,Sir Charles, Statue of, 87 Nelson Column, 87 [w.c. Nell Gwynne Tavern, 85, New Kent-rd., 159,105, s.E. Newgate. 50, 89, 90, 92, E.c. Newcastle-street, Strand, New Cut, 107, s.E. Newspaper Offices, 82 Newington Causeway, 159,165, s.E. New Palace of Westmin¬ ster, 112 . s.w. Norman London, 11 North London Railway, 43, 44 Northumberland House, 88, W.C. Obelisk, the, 159, 166, s.E, Old Bailey, 77, E.c. [E.c. Old Mansion House, 09 Old Kent-road, 159, S.E. Olympic Theatre, 54, 83, [w.c. Old Palace Yard, 118 , s.w. Omnibus Routes & Fares, 82 et seq. Over the Water, 158 Oxford-st., \Metsea., w. Oxford and Cambridge Club, 121, s.w. Oxford Music Hall, 104, W. Pall Mall, 120. s.w. Panyer Alley, 92, e.c. Park-lane, 100,121, w. Parliament, Houses of, 49, 89, 112, S.W. Paternoster-row, 75 , e.c. Paul’s, St., Cathedral, 52 Paul’s, St., Cov. Gar., 86 Paul’s, St., School. 75 Paul, Sir, Pindars Head, 140, E. Peel, Sir Robert, Statue of, 72, E.C. Peers, House of, 112, s.w. Penitentiary, Millbank, 177, s.w. Pentonville, 27, N. Petticoat-lane, 150, E. Piccadilly, 125, et seq., W. Pillars, the, in the Strand, 81 , w.c. Poets ’ Corner, Westmin¬ ster Abbey, 116, s.w. Police Regulations, 63. 197 Polytechnic Institution, 50,125, S.W. Port of London, 148 Pope’s Head-alley, 133,E.C. Post Office, 31, 91, e.c. Postal Regulations, 190 Poultry, 67, e.c. Primrose-hill, 133, N.w. Principal Streets, 21 Privy Council Office. Ill, [s.w. Privy Gardens, 109, s.w. Punch Office, 78, e.c, Pudding-lane, 192, E. Putney-bridge, 170, s.w. Pye-corner, 192, e.c. Queen Anne, Statue of 75, E.C. Queen’s Bench Prison, 164, S.E. Queen Elizabeth, Statue of, 80, E.C. S ueen-street, 72, w.c. AILWAYS, 48, 151, 187 Railway Stations, Prin¬ cipal, 193 Rainbow Tavern, 79, E.c. Ramsgate. 187 Rat cliff-high way, 151, E. Reform Club, 121, s.w. Regent’s Canal, 153 Regent’s-circus, 105,118,w Regent’s Park, 131, N.w. Regent’s Quadrant, 121, [s.w. Regent-street, 121, s.w. 202 INDEX Richmond, ISO, 174, 176 River, a gossip about, 168 Rochester, 184 [179 Rosherville Gardens, 51, Rotherhithe, 148, 150, s.b. Rothschild’s House, 135,w. Rotten-row, aud the Ring, 107, w. Rotunda, 168, S.E. Rowland Hill’s Chapel, 168, S.E. Royal Academy, S9, w.c. Royal Exchange, 51,59,E.c. Royal Humane Society, 107 Royal Institution, 125, w. Roy al Society, 51,135, N. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, 54.157, E.C. Saddlers’-hall, 70, E.C. Saffron-hill, 98, e.c. Salisbury-st. & sq. 75, E.C. Sanctuary, 112,11S, s.w. Saville House, 136, w.c. Saviour’s, St., Church, Southwark, 162, S.E. Savoy, the, 85, w.c. School for Indigent Blind, 167, s.e. Scotland-yard,104, S.w. Sepulchre, St., 97. E.C. Serpentine, 128,131, W. Shadwell, 152, E. Shire-lane, 79, e.c. Shoe-lane, 79, e.c. Shoreditch, 27,155, E. Shot Towers, iso, s.e. Sir Hugh Myddleton, 156 Sights from the Bridges, 176, et seq. Skinner-street, 92, E.c. Sloane-street, 130, S.w. Smithfield, 27, 96, E.C. Snow-hill, 96, E.c. Society of Arts, 51,85, W.C. Soho-square aud Bazaar, 104, w. Somerset House, 84, w.c. Somers Town, 26, N.w. Soper-lane, 72, E.c. Southwark, 63,157, S.E. Southwark-bridge, 69,180, [S.E. South-Eastern & South- West. Railways, 160,167 South Kensington, 28, 130, [w. South Kensington Mu¬ seum, 51,130, w. [86, W.C, Southampton-st., Strand, Spital Sermons, 93 i Spitalfields, 27. 155, E. Steam-boats, 44 [s.w. Stephen’s, St., Hall, 114, , Stephen’s, Walbrook,67,E. ; Staines, 176 [e. Standard Theatre, 54, 155, I Stepney, 155, E. Stock Exchange, 138, e.c. I Statues, public, list of, 195 Stafford House, 133, s.w. I Stationers’ Hall, 75, E.C. ' Strand, the, 81, w.c. Stratford, 27, 152, E. Staples -inn, 98, E.C. Suburbs, 27 Surrey Theatre, 54, 167, 1 Surgeons’ Hall, 52,100,w.c. | Suffolk-street, 119 s.w. Sunbury, 176 [s.w. 1 Tattersall’s, 128, 130 Temple, the, 52, 81, E.c. Temple Bar, 80 . E.c. Thames, the, 168 Thames Embankment, 65 Thames Tunnel, 52,150 Thames-street, 145, e.c. Thanet House, 92, w.c. Threadneedle-st., 137, E.c. Theatres, 53, et seq. [s.e. Thomas’s.St., Hospital,163, Thorney Island, 115 Tower, the, 141 et seq., E.c. Tooley-st.,167, S.E. Trafaigar-square, 88, W.C. Treasury, 111, s.w. Trinity House, 52,145 E.c. “ Times ’ Office, 192, E.C. Twickenham, 175, s.W. Triumphal Arch, 127, w. Turns'iles, Gt. aud Little, 99, w.c. [w. 1 Tussaud’s Exhibition, 50, Tyburn-lane, 106, w. Underground Railway, 1 44, 98 University College, 103, i [w.c. University Hospital, 104, [w.c. United Service Museum, 52, s.w. [s.w. United Service Club, 121, Union Club, 121 , s.w. [s. Upper Ground-street, 167, Vaults in the Docks, 14S , Vauxhall, and Bridge, 118, 177, S.E. Victoria Hall and Tower 113, s.w VictoriaTheatre,55,168,S.E. Victoria-street, Holborn, 94, E.C. Victoria Park, 27,154, E. Victoria-st., Westminster, 114,118, s.w. [173. s.w. Vine at Hampton Court, Volunteer Service Club, 121 , s.w. Waithman Obelisk. 78, Wapping, 150, E. tE.C. War Office. 109, S.w. Ward of Cheape, 68, e.c. [w.c, Waterloo-bridge, 94, 178, Waterloo-road, 167, S.w. Water-lane, 79, e. Wellington-st., 83, w.c. Wllgtn. Barracks, 111, s.w Wellington Statue, Bank 55,59, E.C. Westminster, Local Go¬ vernment of. 63 Westminster-bridge, 112, 177. s.w. [s.w. Westminster Hall, 52, 113. Westminster-bridge-road 159,167, s. E. [116, s.w. Westminster Abbey, 52, Westminster School, 117, s.w. [ill, s.w. Westminster Palace Hotel Westminster Hospital, 118 , I s.w. Wesleyan Centenary Hall, 140, E.C. Wharves near London- bridge, 162 Whitefnars, 79, E.C. Whitechapel, 155, e. Windsor: Castle, Park, &c., 172 [W.C. Whittington Club,, 82,121 Whitehall, 90,108, s.w. Whitfield s Chapel, 103. [w. Willis’s Rooms, 123, S.w. Wilkes’ Obelisk, 1S3, E.C. Windmill-hill, 184 Windsor, 171 Wm. IV.. Statue, 161, e.c. Woolwich, 52,182, S.E. York, Duke of. Column, York-road, 17S.8. [120, s.w. ZOAR-STREET, Bankside, 192, S.B. [132, N.w. Zoological Gardens, 52, SaviU, Edwards and Co., Printers, Chandos Street, Covent Garden, ROWLAND’S MACASSAR OIL. Prevents the Hair falling off and eradicates Scurf, &c. Price 3s. 6d. ; 7s.; 10s. 6d. (equal to 4 small); and 21s. per Bottle. ROWLAND’S E U K 0 NI A. A New Toilet Powder, specially recommended to ladies. 3s. per Box. ROWLAND’S ODONTO. Whitens the Teeth and prevents and arrests their decay. 2s. 9d. per Box. ROWLAND’S KALYB0R. Eradicates all Cutaneous Eruptions and produces a beautiful anl delicate complexion. 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per Bottle. Ash any Chemist , Perfumer, or Hairdresser for “HOWLAND'S” articles, and avoid cheap imitations. J. & P. GOATS’ BEST SOFT 6-CORD SEWING COTTON. SUITABLE FOR ALL SEWING MACHINES. EXTRA 0LA0E COTTON. Q U /"N This Cotton being greatly im- QJj VY 111 IT P roveii in quality and finish, will be found unsurpassed for Machine or Hand Sewing. On Keels, 100, 200, or 500 Yards. COTTON. CROCHET OR TATTING COTTON,™ Unsurpassed in Quality. To be had of all Wholesale and Retail Drapers throughout the United Kingdom. NOVELS AT TWO SHILLINGS. ' Pelham. [ Paul Clifford. , Eugene Aram. Last Days of Pompeii. Rienz:. Leila, am. Pilgrims of the Rhine. j Last of tlie Barons. By LORD LYTTON. Ernest Maltravers. Alice; or, The Mys- Devereux. [teries. Night and Morning. Godolphin. The Disowned, i The Caxtons. My Novel. VoL I. My Novel. VoL 3. I jiCetia. Harold. Zanoni. What will he Do with It. Vol. i. Ditto. Vol. 2. A Strange Story. By ALBERT SMITH. The Marchioness of Brinvilliers. i Christopher Tadpole. The Adventures of Mr Ledbury. The Pottleton Legacy. The Scattergood Family. By HENRY COCKTON. Valentine Vox. | George Julian. | Stanley Thom. By MISS WETHERELL. The Old Helmet. Ellen Montgomery’s Bookshelf. Melbourne House. The Two School-Girls. The Wide, Wide World. Queechy. I By the AUTHOR of “ WHITEFRIARS.” Whitefriars. I Caesar Borgia. I Maid of Orleans. Whitehall. ’ | Owen Tudor. | Westminster Abbey By ALEXANDRE DUMAS. The Half-Brothers. Marguerite de Valois. Vicomte de Bragelonne. Vols. and 2 (2 s. 6 d. each). The Three Musketeers. Twenty Years After. Monte Cristo, (2 s. 6 d.) The Forty-five Guardsmen. Romance of War. The Aide-de-Oarnp. Scottish Cavalier. 1 Bothweil. [vol. Jane Seton ; or, The Queen’s Advocate. Philip Rollo. Legends of ‘.he Black Watch. Mary of Lorraine. Oliver Ellis ; or, The Fusiliers. Phantom Regiment. By JAMES GRANT. Lucy Arden, or Holly¬ wood Hall. Frank Hilton ; or. The Queen’s Own. The Yellow Frigate. Harry Ogilvie; or, TheBlackDragoons. Arthur Blane. Laura Everingham. Captain of the Guard. Letty Hyde’s Lovers. Cavaliers of Fortune. Second to None. Constable of France. King’sOwn Borderers. The White Cockade. Dick Rodney. [Love. First Love and Last The Girl he Married. Lady Wedderburn’s Jack Manly. [Wish. Only an Ensign. Adventures of Rob Roy. Under theRedDragon The Queen’s Cadet. 1 I Published by George Routledge and Sons. NOVELS AT TWO SHILLINGS.— Continued. By FIELDING and SMOLLETT. Fielding. Tom Jones. Joseph Andrews. Amelia. Smollett. Roderick Random. Humphrey Clinker. Peregrine Pickle. I By AMELIA B. EDWARDS. I The Ladder of Life. | My Brother’s Wife. | HalfaMillionof Money. By Mrs. CROWE. Night Side of Nature. Susan Hopley. Linny Lockwood. By Miss FERRIER. Marriage. Inheritance. Destiny. By CAPTAIN CHAMIER. Life of a Sailor. | Ben Brace. | Tom Bowling. | Jack Adams. By CHARLES LEVER. Arthur O’Leary. Con Cregan. By CAPTAIN Two Midshipmen. | Medora. By Lady C. LONG. First Lieutenant’s Story, Sir Roland Ashton. By Mrs. GORE. Mothers and Daughters. Soldier of Lyons. By Rev. G. R. GLEIG. Country Curate. | Waltham. | The Hussar. By GERSTAECKER. A Wife to Order. I Feathered Arrow. Two Convicts. I Each for Himself. Stories of Waterloo. Brian O’Linn ; or, Luck is Everything. Captain Blake. The Bivouac. By W. H. MAXWELL. Hector O’llalloran. Stories of the Penin¬ sular War. Captain O’Sullivan. Flood and Field. Wild Sports in Highlands. Wild Sports in West. By LANG. Will He Marry Her. The Ex-Wife. Peregrine Bunce. Cousin Geoffry. Gilbert Gurney. Parson’s Daughter. All in the Wrong. By EDMUND VATES, Running the Gauntlet. Kissing the Rod, By THEODORE HOOK. The Widow and the Marquess. Gumey Married. Jack Brag. Maxwell. Man of Many Friends. Passion and Principle. Merton. Gervase Skinner, Cousin William. Fathers and Sons. I Published by George Routledge and Sons. By S. LOVER. Rory O’More. Handy Andy. ARMSTRONG. | War Hawk | Young Commander the the GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS Paper Limt, Cl. Picture Cover#. Gilt. Boards. Hf. Roan ARTHUR, T. S.— 1/ 1 l/6 Nothing but Money ... ... AUSTEN, Jane —[Seepage 23.) BANIM, John— — — Peep 0’ Day . ... 2/ 2/6 — Smuggler. BARHAM, R. H— 2/ 2/6 1/ — My Cousin Nicholas BAYLY, T. Haynes-. *** ! */ — Kindness in Women .. EELL, M. M.— _ — Deeds, not Words ... „/ 2/6 — The Secret of a Life ... BELLEW, J. C. M.— 2/ 2/6 « — — Blount Tempest. BIRD, Robert M.— 2 J Nick of the Woods ; or, The Fighting Quaker CARLETON, William— 2/ 1/ — Emigrants... — — i/ — Fardarougha the Miser ... — — i/ — Jane Sinclair, &c. — — i/ — Tithe Proctor . — — Caileton’s Novels, 5 vols., paper covers, 5-f.; CHAMIER, Captain— cloth, 7*. 6 1/. _ — Ben Brace ... . 2/ 2 '6 1 _ — Jack Adams ... . 2/ 2 6 _ — Life of a Sailor ... 2/ 2 6 — Tom Bowling ... ... ... 2/ Chamier’s Novels, A vols., bds., 8x. ; cloth, los. COCKTON, Henry— 2.6 Cloth. _ — George Lilian, the Trince 2/ 2 6 — — Stanley Thorn 2/ 2/6 — Valentine Vox, the Ventriloquist 2/ Cockton’s Novels, 3 vols., bds., 6s. ; half roan, "s. 2,6 Cd. AM /X F CM TALOGUE. ! Paper Limp Cl. Picture Cl. Gilt, Covers. Gilt. Boards. with COOPER, J. Fenimore— Frontis¬ piece. (Sixpenny Edition on page 20.) 1/ 1/6 Afloat and Ashore; a Sequel to Miles Wallingford . 2 / 2/6 1/ 1/6 Borderers ; or, The Heathcotes ... 2/ 2 16 1/ 1/6 Bravo: A Tale of Venice 2/ 2/6 1/ 1/6 Deerslayer; or,The FirstWar-Path 2/ 2/6 1/ 1/6 Eve Effingham: A Sequel to “ Homeward Bound ” — — 1 l l 1/6 Headsman 2 / 2/6 11 1/6 Ileidenmauer : A Legend of the Rhine ... 2 / 2/6 1/ i/e Homeward Bound ; or, The Chase 2/ 2/6 1/ 1/6 Last of the Mohicans 2/ 2/6 1/ 1/6 Lionel Lincoln; or, The Leaguer of Boston 2 / 2/6 1/ i/6 Mark’s Reef; or, The Crater ... 1/ 1/6 Miles Wallingford; or, Lucy Hardinge 2 / 2/6 1/ 1/6 Ned Myers; or, Life before the Mast _ — 1/ 1/6 Oak Openings ; or, The Beehunter — - i 1/ 1/6 Pathfinder; or, The Inland Sea... 2/ 2/6 ' 1/ 1/6 Pilot: A Tale of the Sea 2/ 26 1/ 1/6 Pioneers ; or, The Sources of the Susquehanna ... 2/ 2/6 1/ i/e Prairie 2/ 2/6 j 1/ i/6 Precaution — 1 1/ 1/6 Red Rover 2/ 2/6 j 1/ 1/6 Satanstoe; or, The Littlepage 1 Manuscripts — — 1/ 1/6 Sea Lions ; or, The Lost Sealers — — 1/ 1 /6 Spy: A Tale of the Neutral 1 Ground 2/ 2/6 1/ 1/6 Two Admirals _ j 1/ i/6 Waterwitch ; or, The Skimmer of 1 the Seas 2/ 2/6 i 1/6 Wyandotte ; or, The Hutted \ . Knoll ... 2/ 2/6 Cooper’s Novels.—The Set of iS vols., green cloth, £2 5*. ; boards, £1 16s. The Shilling Edition, 26 vols. in 13, cloth, £1 19 s. Also 26 vols., cloth gilt, £1 19 s. ; paper covers, £1 6s. See also page 20. GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS Paper Covers. Limp Cl. Cilt. COOPER, Thomas— Picture Boards. Half Koan. ■/ The Family Feud ... COSTELLO, Dudley — —— - » Faint Heart ne’er Won Fair Lady CROLY, Rev. Dr.— 2/ " — Salathiel ... ... ... ... CROWE, Catherine — 2/ 26 — — Lilly Dawson ... ... 2/ 2/6 — — Linny Lockwood ... ... 2/ 2/6 — — Night Side of Nature . 2/ 2/6 — — Susan Hopley 2/ 2/6 The Set, 4 vols., doth, ics. CRUIKSHANK, George — The following Volumes are illustrated by this renowned Artist :— Dickens’s crtimaldi, on page 6. Mayhew’s Two Books, on page 14. Mornings at Bow Street, on page 17. Several of the Octavo Novels, on page 22. CUPPLES, Captain— _ — The Green Hand ... ... 2 / 2'6 — The Two Frigates . DANA, R. H., Jun — 2 / 2 6 1/ — Two Years before the Mast .„ DICKENS, Charles— I -- Grimaldi the Clown ... ... DUMAS, Alexandre— 2 / 1/ 1/6 Ascanio ... ... ... ... — — 1/ 1/6 Beau Tancrede. — — 1/ j/6 Black Tulip ... ... ... — — H l/6 Captain Paul ... ... ... — — 1/ 1/6 Catherine Blum — — 1/ l/6 Chevalier de Maison Rouge ... — Paper Limp CL Covers. Gilt. Picture Boards. Hf. Roan. RAIL WA Y CA TALOGUE. */ 1/ 1/ 1/ 1/ 7 i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ i/ 7 i/ i/ i/ i/ Dumas, Alexandre— continued. i/6 Chicot the Jester l/6 Conspirators . i/6 Countess de Charny i/6 Dr. Basilius . i/6 Forty-five Guardsmen — Half Brothers .. i/6 Ingenue i/6 Isabel of Bavaria — Marguerite de Valois ... I/6 Memoirs of a Physician vol. I | i/6 Do. do. vol. .2 ( i/6 Monte Cristo ... vol. i ) 1/6 Do. ... vol. 2 j l/6 Nanon i/6 Page of the Duke of Savoy i/6 Pauline l/6 Queen’s Necklace i/6 Regent’s Daughter . l/6 Russian Gipsy . l/6 Taking the Bastile, vol. I ) i/6 Do. vol. 2 \ l/6 Three Musketeers ... / i/6 Twenty Years After ... $ i/6 Twin Captains... 1/6 Two Dianas — Vicomte de Bragelonne, vol. i — Do. do. vol. 2 i/6 Watchmaker 2 / 2 / 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 Dumas’ Novels, 19 vols., half roan, £2 V]s. EDGEWORTH, Maria— Tales of Fashionable Life : The Absentee . — Ennui ... .. ... ... — Manoeuvring ... ... ... — Vivian ... ... ... —■ The Set, in cloth gilt, 4 vols., in a box, 8 s. EDWARDS, Amelia B.- Half a Million of Mcwiey ... 2/ Ladder of Life ... ... ... 2/ My Brother’s Wife ... ... 2/ 2/6 2/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/6 2/6 2/6 2/6 THE BEST REMEDY FOR INDIGESTION. ORTON’S CAMOMILE PILLS are confidently recommended as a simple but certain Remedy for Indiges¬ tion, which is the cause of nearly all the diseases to which we are subject, being a medicine so uniformly grateful and bene¬ ficial, that it is with justice called the “Natural Strengthener of the Human Stomach.” “Norton’s Pills” act as a powerful tonic and gentle aperient; are mild in their operation, safe under any circumstances, and thousands of persons can now bear testimony to the benefits to be derived f rom their use, as they have been a never-failing Family Friend for upwards of 30 years. Sold in bottles at Is. 1 \d., 2s. 9 d., and 11s. each, m every Town in the Kingdom. CAUTION.—Be sure to ask for “NORTON’S PILLS,” and do not be persuaded to purchase an imitation. LAMPLOUGH'S 4 PYRETIC SALINE CWNKS HEADACHE, and NAUSEA are in most cases immediately reli\™taking a t^spoonful in a tumbler of cold water. Tins can be - in t.wn hours, if needful. „ , ,__ NINE EXHIBITION PRIZ FRY’S CARACAS In j lb. and £ lb. Packets, 1/4. per j owes its delicious flavour to the u| brated Caracas Nut, combined wit]j descriptions, specially selected for | excellence and invigorating qualities! FRY’S CARACAS CH In 4lb. and -Jib. Cakes. Yellow wrapp? This really excellent and delicior] a moderate price, is also prepared wj other choice Cocoas, long adopted! faoture of the finest Chocolates of l| FRY’S EXTRACT 0 In 6d. Jackets. Is. and 2s. A perfectly pure delicious be*] exclusively from choice Cocoa, and e| Invalids who wish to avoid rich arthj — J. S. FRY & SONS, BRISTOL • Manufacturers to me Queen and the Prl